Textile Spinning to Finishing

Process.

M.Tauqeer –
 Basic Fibers

Cotton Wool Silk

Linen
Lycra
Viscose

Polyester Acrylic
Nylon
 Fiber types
Classification based on physical nature

• Staple fibers
– Cotton, Wool, Linen, VR, PSF
• Filaments
– Silk, PFY, VR
– Micro deniers
Staple Fiber & Filaments
Fiber Properties
 Wool- Comfortable, Good to feel, Versatile,
Lightweight, Good insulator, Wrinkle-resistant,
Absorbent, Durable(Like TWEED).
 Cotton- Comfortable, Breathable, Machine-
washable, dry-cleanable, Good strength,
Drapes well, Soft hand, Absorbent, Wrinkle.
 Silk- Soft & Crisp hand, Luxurious & Drapes well,
Thinnest of all natural fibers, Hand-washable or dry-
cleanable, Poor resistance to prolonged exposure to
sunlight
Fiber Properties .. contd
 Polynosic - Drapes well, Excellent luster, Breathable,
Can be dyed in bright colors, Characteristic: Hazy
appearance.

 Polyester - Strong, Crisp, soft hand, Resistant

to stretching and shrinkage, Washable or dry-
cleanable, Quick drying, Resilient, wrinkle
resistant, excellent pleat retention (if heat set),
Easy care.
Woven Fabric Manufacturing
Cotton system

Spinning
Yarn

Weaving
Greige fabric

Wet Processing
Finished fabric
Inspection Packed fabric
Spinning
 Plucking & Cleaning
 Blow room
 Carding
 Combing
 Draw frame
 Simplex
 Ring frame Yarn
Plucking.

 At this stage
cotton bales
are manually
opened and
are put in
Pluckers are
machines
which mix
the cotton
and separate
the bales into
smaller
denomination
s. The
separated
cotton is then
transferred
into the Blow
Room.
Blow Room

 The Blow Room is a

facility, which is
primarily used for
the Cleaning,
Mixing and Opening
of cotton for yarn
production. Cotton
is processed
through various
stages in this area
through different
machines and the
main objective is to
refine the cotton
being used in yarn
production.
Carding Department

 The main
function of
this
department is
to transform
the cotton into
Sliver. The
main objective
here is to
maintain the
uniformity,
alignment and
stretch ability
of the fiber as
per the
desired
standards
Combing

 The main
function of this
department is to
transform the
cotton Sliver in
to more fine and
inject the raw
material and
also putting
short fiber to get
more longer
fiber for
durability.
Draw Frame
 The function of the
Draw Frame is to
create a roving
consistent in size
over its entire
length. The draw
frame blends
multiple roving into
one fiber.
 The draw frame
results in strong,
uniform roving of a
size that can be
easily managed at
the spinner
Simplex

 Simplex is the
process of
shaping the
Sliver into
Roving. The
main
processes
involved are
Grafting,
Twisting and
Winding the
sliver and
shaping it like
a thin rope.
Ring frame

 This is function
where the yarn is
finally produced. The
Roving are put on
the machines used
here and passing
the roving through
the machine
produces yarns. The
main objective of the
machines here is
again Grafting,
Twisting and
Winding. Once the
cotton thread is
produced it is
collected in the form
of Bobbin.
Spinning Laboratory

 The second important

section of the spinning
facility is the Test
Laboratory which is
mainly responsible for
the inspection and
testing of the cotton
samples and monitoring
 Yarn Count
 Yarn Strength
 Sliver Test
 Check Machinery Faults
etc.
 Yarn types &
Characteristics
 Spun - carded, combed
 Long staple spng - Worsted, Spun Silk
 Filament - Mono & Multifilament
 Doubled yarn - single & 2-ply
 Stronger, Uniform, blending
 Yarn twist - S & Z, TPI, High Twist, Knit yarns.
 Stretch yarns - Lycra, Mechanical
 Slub Yarns, Lurex
Yarn Finishes
 Singeing = Singing is the process
of removing the uneven fibers

 Mercerizing = The treatment

caused the fibers to swell, the process
shrunk the overall fabric size and
made it stronger and easier to dye.

 Bleaching, Dyeing
 Synthetics
 Texturising
 Anti Static
Blending
 Fiber blending can be carried out at all the foll stages
of fabric manufacturing :
 at Spinning
 at Doubling
 at Weaving

 Advantages - To get the best properties of both

Natural and Synthetic fibers.
Material-Blending

Cotton Polyester

33% 67%

Polyester Cotton
Chief Value Cotton (CVC) /Cotton Rich

 Polyester (40%)+Cotton(60%)
 Cotton
• Comfort, Soft handle
 Polyester
• Crease resistance, Easy care
Polyester Cotton (PC)

 Polyester (67%) and Cotton (33%)

 Cotton
• comfortable to wear
• greater strength
 Polyester
• Resistance from creases, Quick dry, ETI
Yarn numbering systems

 Indirect system
 Ne - English Count (Cotton, P/V) 140s, 120s, 100s,
80s, 60s, 50s, 40s, 30s, 20s, 16s, 14s, 12s, 10s, 9s, 6s,
1s
 Nm - New Metric (P/W Worsted)
 Direct system
 Tex - Universal system
 Denier (All filament yarns) 22D, 44D, 75D, 150D,
300D
 Fine & Coarse yarns - Handle, Luster, Uniformity, Dye
Uptake, Drape
 Doubled yarns
 2 ply
 2/80s = 40s equivalent
 3 ply
 3/60s = 20s equivalent
 Advantages -
 Stronger & Durable
 Improved Hand feel, Cleaner look, Luster
 Reduced tendency to pill, abrasion resistance
Finishes

Fabric

Weaves
Weaving

 Interlacement of Warp & Weft on Loom

 Preparation for weaving
 Warping, Sectional Warping
 Sizing
 Warp beam preparation
 Gaiting & Doffing
Warp n Weft
 Yarn on 2 sides of Fabric end
 Warp (Vertical)

 Weft (Horizontal)
pick
Fabric-Weave representation
.

Warp yarns
(Blue)

Selvage
(Yellow)

Weft
yarns
(Red)
Fabric Construction

Blend ratio - C/P 60/40

Count - 2/40s Ne x 2/20s Ne
Construction (epi x ppi) - 130x60 (fin.)
Weave - 3/1 RHT
Weight - 270 GSM
Fabric-Weaves

 The most commonly used weaves are :

 Plain weave - Poplin, Tussore
• Hopsack, Matte weave
• Oxfords - PPO, Classical
 Twill weave
• Herringbone, Chino, Gabardine, RHT, LHT
 Satin/Sateen
 Other - Mock leno, Honeycomb, Dobbies, Jacquards,
Pique, Corduroy, Double Cloth
 Non-Woven
Plain weave - Max no. of interlacements
Types of Twill weave
- Diagonal patterns on surface

Twill (LHT) Herringbone Gabardine

(Broken Twill)
Matte Weave
 Also known as BASKET WEAVE
 It’s a variation of plain weave.
 Uses doubled yarn to produce a basket like design on
the face of the fabric
Chambray

White Weft Yarn

Colour Warp Yarn

 Gives a two tone look

 Used in : All types of garments
 History : Named after Chambray
province in France
 Fil-a-Fil

White Weft Yarn

Alternate Colour &

White Warp Yarn

Gives two tone look

 Used in : All types of garments
 Oxford
Matt feel fabric
1.Classical (Larger heads) 40sx2/30s
Classical PPO
2. PPO (Small heads), 2/80sx2/80s

 Used in :Shirts - light weights

Trousers - heavy weights
 Benefit :Hard wearing
 History :Popularized in the US, as proper executive wear
by Brooks Brother’s
Corduroy

Used in : Bottom wear and outerwear

 Benefit : Hardwearing fabric for outdoor wear
Warmth providing fabric
 History : Named after Corde Du Roi,
French for - Cloth of King
Denim

 Twill Chambray - Indigo dyed Warp & Undyed

Weft
 Used in: Jeans - heavy weights
Outerwear - heavy weight
Shirts / Tops - light weight
 Benefit: Hard wearing
Trendy
 History: Named after a place in
France called Diemes.
What You Need To Know About Trousers

Weaves

Fabric

Finishes
Wet Processing

 Desizing
 Scouring, Singeing
 Bleaching
 Mercerising
 Padding & development - types of Dyes
 Stenter & Finishing
 Calendaring, Peaching, etc
Types of Dyeing
 Top dyeing - P/V, Melanges
 Yarn dyeing -
 Beam Dyeing - Denims
 Fabric dyeing –
 Piece dye, Cross dye
 Dispels Dye for CVC fabrics
 Reactive Dye
 Sulfur Dye ( blocked due to Azo free)
 Garment dyeing
 Printing - Block, Screen, Rotary, Flocking, Burn outs,
Laser
Finishing : Chemical & Mechanical

 Softener
 Enzyme
 Micro sanding, Peaching
 Resin, ETI, Non-iron
 Stain repellent / Soil release
 Anti Bacterial
 Absorbent / Quick dry
 Denim washes - Bleach, Stone, Acid, Sandblasting
 Anti-static, Flame retardant
Fabric Properties - tech analysis for testing performance

 Count, Construction, GSM, Blend %, TPI

 Pilling
 Tear & Tensile strength
 Shrinkage %
 Color fastness - Wash, Light, Rub, Wet Alkali in both dry
& wet conditions
 Iron ability,
 Washes and Finishes
 Washes
A process by which finished garments are put into huge
washers and treated with chemicals to get the required
effect.
 Garments are washed to influence:
• Physical properties like:softness, drape,absorbency and creasing
• The appearance of fabric by changing the colour or luster
• Shrinkage
Printing

 Pigment Printing. Pigment printing

include the application of pigment dyes on
the surface of the fabric. These dyes form
a thin film on the surface of the fabric.
The fixation of the dyes is then done
through curing.
 Reactive Printing. Reactive dyes
react with the fibers of the fabric, once
applied to give the desired shades. The
fabric is then dried and washed so the
dyes are fixed and the unfixed dyes are
removed
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