New York Magazine

Spring Has Sprung

Paris’s most famous American chef cooks classic French at Le Coucou.
Le Coucou

3 Stars

Le Coucou

138 Lafayette St., at Howard St., 212-271-4252 lecoucou.com

THERE ARE MANY THINGS about Stephen Starr’s lavish new dining venture Le Coucou that will remind restaurant grandees of the glory days, before the rabble of kitchen slaves stormed the bastions of what used to be called “haute cuisine” and their world turned upside down. There is the retro theme (classic French cooking), brought to you by the traditional restaurateur, who puts together his productions the old-fashioned way, like elaborately costumed Broadway shows. There is the star of this production, a chef who comes to

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