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‘Don't they sell tyres?': Thai street food chef on life with a Michelin star

Jay Fai’s shophouse is doing a roaring trade as tourists arrive to snap photos and wait half a day for a table
Jay Fai cooks in her kitchen after her street-side eatery was recognised with a Michelin star. Photograph: Lillian Suwanrumpha/AFP/Getty Images

The Thai street food legend Jay Fai had not heard of Michelin stars until she was awarded one.

The diminutive 72-year-old had been wok-frying her signature crab omelettes and prawn noodle dishes six days a week for the last few decades, and when she first received an invite to the Bangkok awards ceremony, she rejected it. She said she did not want to take a day off work.

“Doesn’t Michelin sell tyres? What are they doing with

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