VERTICAL VISION
Lunch is a lazy 17 courses. Each is arranged not by size or consistency but by elevation – by how far above or below sea level the ingredients grow in Peru.
It begins, at minus-five metres, with Spiders on a Rock, a dish listed on the menu in that annoying chef shorthand as, “Sargassum. Limpet. Crab.”
The ingredients, arranged on porous rocks, are seasoned with citrus and a jewel-green powder “of herbs from the zone”, according to maître d’ María Pía Uriarte. The textures range from creamy
