Lonely Planet Trans-Siberian Railway

Trans-Siberian Railway

Contents

Plan Your Trip

Welcome to Trans-Siberian Railway

Trans-Siberian Railway's Top 16

Need to Know

First Time

If You Like...

Month by Month

Choosing Your Route

Itineraries

Booking Tickets

Arranging Your Visas

Life on the Rails

Journey at a Glance

On The Road

Moscow

Sights

Activities

Festivals & Events

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

St Petersburg

Sights

Activities

Festivals & Events

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Moscow to Yekaterinburg

Vladimir

Suzdal

Nizhny Novgorod

Perm

Kungur

Yekaterinburg to Krasnoyarsk

Yekaterinburg

Tyumen

Tobolsk

Omsk

Novosibirsk

Tomsk

Lake Baikal: Krasnoyarsk to Ulan Ude

Krasnoyarsk

Irkutsk

Lake Baikal

Listvyanka

Port Baikal

Olkhon Island

Slyudyanka

Eastern Baikal

Ulan-Ude

Around Ulan-Ude

Ulan-Ude to Vladivostok

Chita

Blagoveshchensk

Birobidzhan

Khabarovsk

Vladivostok

The Baikal-Amur Mainline (BAM)

Tayshet

Bratsk

Severobaikalsk

Nizhneangarsk

Baikalskoe

Tynda

Komsomolsk-na-Amure

The Trans-Mongolian Route

Darkhan

Ulaanbaatar

Around Ulaanbaatar

Sainshand

Zamyn-Uud

Datong

Around Datong

The Trans-Manchurian Route

Manzhoul

Harbin

Changchun

Shanhiguan

Beijing

Sights

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Around Beijing

Great Wall of China

Mutianyu

Gbeiku

Understand

Understand Your Journey

History

Siberian & Far East Travellers

Russia Today

Russian Culture & Cuisine

Mongolia Today

Mongolian Culture & Cuisine

China Today

Chinese Culture & Cuisine

Landscapes & Wildlife

Survive

Directory AZ

Accommodation

Activities

Children

Customs Regulations

Discount Cards

Electricity

Embassies & Consulates

Food

Gay & Lesbian Travellers

Insurance

Internet Access

Legal Matters

Maps

Money

Opening Hours

Photography

Post

Public Holidays

Safe Travel

Telephone & Fax

Time

Toilets

Tourist Information

Travellers with Disabilities

Visas

Women Travellers

Transport

Getting There & Away

Getting Around

Health

Before You Go

In Russia, China & Mongolia

Language

Behind the Scenes

Our Writers

Welcome to Trans-Siberian Railway

Snow-dusted or sun-kissed steppe and taiga, the Gobi Desert and the Great Wall – the Trans-Siberian routes unite landscapes and experiences into the journey of a lifetime.

Jewel in the Crown of the Tsars

No other rail journey can compare to the Trans-Siberian Railway, once hailed as 'the fairest jewel in the crown of the Tsars'. Today the name is shorthand for a web of tracks, fanning out from Moscow and European Russia across seven time zones to the Pacific edge of Asia. Survivor of revolution, wars, natural calamities and extreme weather, this historic iron way provides access to both contemporary metropolises and timeless villages, as well as beautiful landscapes.

Choice of Routes

Trans-Siberian journeys are packed with wow moments. We defy you not to get a kick out of marching across the cobbles of Moscow's Red Square, wandering around Běijīng's Forbidden City or taking in the glorious panorama of Vladivostok's Golden Horn Bay. The more adventurous will certainly want to explore –and possibly plunge into – icy Lake Baikal, or ride with nomads across Mongolia's magnificent steppes. There's also the Baikal-Amur Mainline (Baikalo-Amurskaya Magistral; BAM) passing through remote and stunning parts of Siberia.

Cultural Contrast

While aboard the train, embrace the chance to interact with your fellow passengers and learn a little about their respective cultures as you share with them something of your own. You'll discover, if you haven't already, that Russians in particular are among the kindest people you could meet, ever ready to share their provisions and engage in conversation. So whether you're on the Trans-Siberian Railway simply for the sake of the journey or for the access it provides to Russia, China and Mongolia, prepare yourself for a magnificently rewarding experience of changing landscapes and cultures, people, and of life on the rails.

Slow, Rewarding Travel

The opportunities to alight and explore what was once one of the world's most forbidding and feared destinations are now only limited by your time, budget and imagination. With an average speed of 60km/h Trans-Siberian services are not for travellers in a hurry. There's probably never been a better, more comfortable time to travel, with improved train facilities, online ticketing and a proliferation of affordable Western-style hostels and other accommodation along the way.

Trans-Siberian train near Lake Baikal | SERJIO74 / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Why I Love the Trans-Siberian Railway

By Simon Richmond, Writer

Etched on my memory is the research trip I made for the first edition of the Trans-Siberian Railway guidebook, when I was arrested on a platform and separated from my luggage (including computer, notes and nearly all my money), which continued on the train into Siberia. The day was saved by a wonderful collection of Russians who pulled together to reunite me with all my belongings. Awesome engineering feat it may be, but it's this chance to make friends and connect with Russians and other nationalities on the Trans-Siberian Railway that really makes the journey so special.

For more information, see Our Writers.

Trans-Siberian Railway's Top 16

Moscow’s Kremlin & Red Square

This ancient fortress is the founding site of Moscow and the ultimate symbol of political power in Russia. Within its ancient walls you can admire the artistry of Russia’s greatest icon painters, gawk at the treasure trove that fuelled a revolution, shed a tear for Russia’s great and tragic rulers, and climb the tower for an amazing panorama. Flanking the northeastern wall of the Kremlin, Red Square is dominated by bold towers and the colourful domes of St Basil’s Cathedral.

SERGEY FOMENKO / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Life Aboard the Train

Imagine it as an overland cruise. The great pleasures of Trans-Siberian travel are the on-board rituals of eating, sleeping and simply gazing through the windows at the unfurling landscape. The height of luxury are trains such as the Golden Eagle. Better, though, are regular RZD trains, where you'll meet ordinary Russian travellers, who have a real knack for making the compartments a home away from home. Amble along to the restaurant car and pal up with the provodnitsa, the female train attendant who cherishes her carriage as her own little fiefdom.

VOSTOK / GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

Běijīng by Bike

In order to get under the skin of Běijīng, hire a bike and cycle like mad through the city. Navigate twists and turns, thread through alleys, down boulevards and around landscaped parks, and the city will reveal itself as a fascinating mosaic of charming old hútòng (narrow alleyway) neighbourhoods and 21st-century architectural wonders. Biking Běijīng puts you at ground level with the locals, and there is a tangible sense of camaraderie as you pull up to an intersection and push off together as if in a massive bike rally.

CHRISTIAN KOBER / GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

Russia’s Sacred Sea

The exiled Old Believer Avvakum found it to be a bountiful paradise where all was larger than life: mountains and rocky gates that rose into the heavens, and pure waters brimming with fish. Lake Baikal, the world’s largest freshwater lake, still has the power to amaze whether you glimpse its sapphire waters from the train as it skirts the southern shore or disembark to get an even closer look. For those who like to hike, also consider tramping part of the splendid Great Baikal Trail.

TOLSTNEV / GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

Mongolian Landscapes

Mongolia is a beautiful country. Get into a Russian 4WD or van and your Mongolian travel mates will be crooning about the blue waters of Lake Khövsgöl, the singing sand dunes of the Gobi Desert and the glaciated peaks of the Altai Mountains. Closer to Ulaanbaatar, it’s easy to make day or overnight trips to Gorkhi-Terelj National Park amid the glorious rock formations and green valleys. For a wonderful experience that combines natural landscapes and wildlife viewing, visit Khustain National Park, where wild takhi horses roam across the pristine grasslands of central Mongolia.

HELLORF ZCOOL / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

St Petersburg’s Hermitage

Standing proudly at the end of Nevsky pr, Russia’s most famous palace houses its most famous museum, the Hermitage. Little can prepare most visitors for the scale and quality of the exhibits, including a staggering number of works by Rembrandt, Rubens, Picasso and Matisse. In addition to paintings, there are superb antiquities, sculpture and jewellery on display, and if that’s not enough, you can also wander through the private apartments of the Romanovs, for whom the Winter Palace was home until 1917.

BRIAN KINNEY / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Great Wall of China

Just as there are two sides to every coin, there are two opinions about the significance of the Great Wall. For the Chinese, the Wall represents a marvellous architectural achievement, accomplished with enormous human effort and advanced technical designs. For Mongolians, it represents nomadic strength, power and determination, for only the fiercest of warriors could force another people to construct such a colossal defensive work. For Trans-Siberian travellers, the Wall is a majestic ending (or starting) point to the long cross-continental journey.

APHOTOSTORY / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Vladivostok

Capital of Russia’s Far East and a major port, Vladivostok (meaning 'lord of the east') has been on a roll after being remade for an economic summit in 2012. Asia's rising star has a new branch of the Mariinsky Theatre and the Hermitage. Take in beautiful Golden Horn Bay from one of the city’s myriad viewpoints, or join the frenzy of activity with a ferry cruise. Check out the impressive suspension bridge spanning the bay. Suddenly those San Francisco comparisons don’t seem quite so preposterous.

BRIAN KINNEY / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

The Arts of Moscow

Moscow's performing and visual arts scenes are a major drawcard. Classical ballet, music and theatre have traditionally been at the heart of Russian culture. Today, exciting and creative artists are experimenting with new forms of theatre, painting, music, sculpture and dance. If you have your heart set on classical opera or ballet at the Bolshoi Theatre, or icons at the State Tretyakov Gallery, you won’t be disappointed. But try to catch the experimental cultural scene, too.

A ballerina dancing in front of the Bolshoi Theatre | ILYAS KALIMULLIN / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Barguzin Valley

The remote and romantically timeless Barguzin Valley is said to have been the birthplace of Chinggis (Genghis) Khaan’s mother. It is one of the Baikal region’s most attractive places and, despite the trickle of visitors finding their way into the region these days, remains one of the least visited spots around Lake Baikal. Snow-dusted peaks and curious rock formations gaze down upon a landscape dotted with salt lakes and fairytale wooden villages, where horse carts and sleighs are more numerous than cars.

ILIN SERGEY / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Historical Tobolsk

Formerly the capital of Siberia, Tobolsk is today renowned across Russia for its magnificent kremlin. Crowds are rare, though, and if you come on a weekday you are likely to have the grounds almost to yourself. The kremlin is perched high above the old town, a part of Tobolsk where you lose track of time as you explore the endless wooden buildings and dramatic churches. Tobolsk is off the main Trans-Siberian route, but its charms are well worth the detour.

St Sofia Cathedral, Kremlin, Tobolsk | SERGEYVBUTORIN / GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

Naadam in Ulaanbaatar

You don’t have to travel across the Gobi Desert to find Mongolian culture; it’s right in Ulaanbaatar. During Naadam you’ll see proud examples of Mongolian culture, as the national pastimes of archery, wrestling, horse-racing and shagai (anklebone shooting) are played out before enthusiastic crowds in traditional dress. National foods huushuur (mutton pasties) and airag (fermented mare’s milk) are consumed in great quantities at this time. Naadam is also a great time to catch a performance of traditional acts including the other-worldly khoomii (throat singing), glass-shattering urtyn-duu and cringe-inducing nugaralt (contortionism).

Archers on horseback during Naadam | LOCA4MOTION / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Novosibirsk

Once viewed as an intimidating monolith, Novosibirsk has blossomed into one of Russia's most hip and hospitable metropolises. Siberia's unofficial capital boasts a delightful range of accommodation, an up-and-coming restaurant and bar scene, and noticeably friendly locals. Located about one-third of the way between Moscow and Vladivostok, it's a perfect stop-off for rail-weary souls looking to unwind with a big night out on the town. There are cultural diversions as well, in the form of worthy museums, Siberian wooden architecture and a lively music and arts scene.

Main train station, Novosibirsk | STOCKPHOTOVIDEO / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Olkhon Island

Sacred to the shamanist western Buryats, enchanted Olkhon sits halfway up Lake Baikal’s western shore. It’s obvious why the gods and other beings from the Mongol Geser epic chose to dwell on this eerily moving island, though today it’s more likely to be a bunch of backpackers you meet emerging from a cave. The island’s landscapes are spellbinding, Baikal’s waters lap balmiest on its western shore and if you’re after some Siberia-inspired meditation, there’s no better spot.

KATVIC / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Suzdal's Idyll

Ding-dong ring the bells of a few dozen churches as you ride your bike through the streets of Suzdal, lined with wooden cottages and lush gardens. This is Russia as it would have been, if not for the devastating 20th century – unpretentious, pious and very laid back. Some of the best religious architecture is scattered around, but you can just as well spend all day lying in the grass and watching the river before repairing to a banya for the sweet torture of heat, cold and birch twigs.

KOSTIN SS / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Tradition in Siberia

Siberia's villages and small towns may be gradually sinking back into the enormous landscape, but Siberians (Sibiryaki) survive and see themselves as the purer essence of Russia – the way Russians elsewhere used to be. Tradition expresses itself in hospitality and acceptance of strangers (and their odd ways). You'll see traditional Siberian izby (wooden houses) everywhere: beside the railway, along rivers and lake shores, hiding deep in the forests or on proud display in Irkutsk or the university town of Tomsk.

Wooden lace window, Tomsk | LAMBERRTO / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Need to Know

Currency

China: yuán (¥)

Mongolia: tögrög (T)

Russia: rouble (R)

Language

Mandarin (China); Mongolian, Kazakh (Mongolia); Russian (Russia)

Visas

Required for most nationalities for Russia and China and for a handful in Mongolia. Begin organising three months in advance.

Money

ATMs are plentiful in Russia and in big cities and towns in China, and are widely available in Ulaanbaatar and regional capitals of Mongolia.

Mobile Phones

Prepaid SIM cards are readily available in Russia, China and Mongolia for unlocked phones. Mongolia has four carriers (two GSM and two CDMA).

Time

Russia has 11 time zones. Times are always given in Moscow time (three hours ahead of GMT/UTC) at Russian stations and on Russian trains. Ulaanbaatar and Běijīng are both five hours ahead of Moscow and eight hours ahead of GMT/UTC.

When to Go

High Season (Jun–Aug)

A China: peak June to August; hot, but rainstorms offer respite.

A Mongolia: peak June to August; rain late July to August; book everything early around Naadam.

A Russia: peak June to early September.

Shoulder (May & Sep–Oct)

A China: April and May plus September and October; most pleasant weather.

A Mongolia: May and September some ger (yurt) camps closed, fewer tourists, weather changeable.

A Russia: beautiful but can get chilly.

Low Season (Nov–Apr)

A China: December to February; cold and dry. Fewer tourists (except around Chinese New Year).

A Mongolia: some ger camps and smaller guesthouses closed.

A Russia: plan indoor pursuits or winter sports; take saunas.

Useful Websites

Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/trans-siberian-railway) Destination information, hotel bookings, traveller forum and more.

Ctrip (http://english.ctrip.com) Hotel-booking and air-ticketing website for China.

Mongolia (www.mongolia.travel) Government travel site.

Way to Russia (http://waytorussia.net) Comprehensive online travel guide.

Important Numbers

Exchange Rates

For current exchange rates, see www.xe.com.

Daily Costs

Budget: Less than US$50

A Dorm bed: Russia R700–800; Mongolia US$7–15; China ¥40–60

A Cafe or street-stall meals: Russia R200–500; Mongolia US$4–7; China ¥40

Midrange: US$50–200

A Double room in a hotel: Russia R2000–3000; Mongolia US$75–150; China ¥200–600

A Restaurant meal: Russia R500–1000; Mongolia US$8–14; China ¥80–100

Top End: More than US$200

A Double room in a hotel: Russia more than R3000; Mongolia more than US$150; China more than ¥600

A Restaurant meal: Russia more than R1000; Mongolia more than US$14; China more than ¥100

Opening Hours

Banks 9am–noon and 2–5pm Monday to Friday

Restaurants 10.30am–11pm

Shops 10am–10pm

Arriving in Russia, China & Mongolia

Sheremetyevo, Domodedovo and Vnukovo airports (Moscow) Aeroexpress (https://aeroexpress.ru/en) trains connect to the city centre from all three airports (from R420, half-hourly 5.30am to 12.30am, 35 minutes).Taxis (R2000 to R2500) take at least an hour; this varies wildly with traffic.

Běijīng Capital International Airport The subway Airport Express line runs every 10 minutes from 6.30am to 11pm (¥25) and takes 30 minutes to get to the city centre.Taxis cost between ¥90 and ¥120 (30 to 60 minutes to the city centre).

Chinggis Khaan Airport (Ulaanbaatar) Organise bus pick-ups through hotels (US$15 to US$20). Official taxis charge a fixed price of around T20,000.

Getting Around

For most, if not all, of your Trans-Siberian journey you’re going to be getting around on the train, but sometimes you might need or want to take an internal flight, a boat or a bus. To check train times and make bookings go to the trip planning section of Russian Railways' website (http://pass.rzd.ru/main-pass/public/en).

Train This will be your main way of getting around, with many overnight services between far-flung cities.

Air To get to your start or end point on the Trans-Siberian or to speed up sections of the route. Only book airlines with solid safety records.

Bus For getting to places not covered by the train. Sometimes faster than local elektrichka train services.

Car/Taxi Sometimes the only way to get to really remote destinations.

First Time

Checklist

A Make sure your passport is valid for at least six months beyond the expiry date of your visa

A Arrange your visa

A Check airline baggage restrictions

A Check travel advisory websites

A Tell banks and credit-card providers your travel dates

A Organise travel insurance

What to Pack

A Good walking shoes – Trans-Siberian cities are best explored on foot

A Phrasebooks, minidictionary or translation apps

A Earplugs and eye mask for napping on trains, noisy hotels and during long White Nights

A Sense of humour and a bucketful of patience

Top Tips for Your Trip

A Consider using a specialist travel agency to arrange visas, make key transport bookings and hire guides.

A Treat yourself to a stay at a business or luxury hotel over the weekend when many often drop their rates substantially to cover the shortfall in business customers. Big discounts can also be had on hotel rack rates for online bookings.

A Rail tickets can be booked online or at stations 60 days in advance. There are sometimes discounts for advance bookings made online.

A Fixed-price business lunches, common in Russian cities, are a great deal and an ideal way to sample the cuisine at fancier restaurants.

What to Wear

Informal dress is generally fine. However, Russians do make an effort when they go to the theatre or a posh restaurant – you should do likewise if you want to fit in. If you’re planning on exploring on foot, a comfortable pair of waterproof walking shoes will come in handy, as will an umbrella or rain jacket.

In winter, bundle up with several layers before going out and bring a long, windproof coat to stay nicely warm. Hats and coats are always removed on entering a museum or restaurant and left in the cloakroom.

Dress codes are more casual in China and Mongolia.

Language

In Russia, China and Mongolia, English speakers are more common in the big cities than smaller towns and the countryside. Learning Cyrillic and a few key phrases will help you enormously with decoding street signs, menus and timetables – this is also the case for Mongolia where Cyrillic is used, too.

Money

A If prices are listed in US dollars or euros, you will still be presented with a final bill in roubles in Russia.

A ATMs linked to international networks can be accessed across Russia, China and Mongolia. Credit cards are commonly accepted in the big cities but don’t expect to be able to use them in more off-the-beaten-track spots and rural areas.

A Inform your bank and/or credit-card provider of the dates you’ll be travelling in Russia, China and Mongolia to avoid your card getting blocked.

Bargaining

Prices are fixed in shops, but at souvenir markets, such as Izmailovo in Moscow, polite haggling over prices is a good idea.

Tipping

A When to Tip In Russia, customary in restaurants, cafes and bars, optional elsewhere. Less common in China and Mongolia.

A Restaurants Leave small change or about 10%, if the service warrants it.

A Guides Around 10% of their daily rate; a small gift will also be appreciated.

A Taxis No need to tip as the fare is agreed either before you get in or is metered.

A Hotels Only in the most luxurious do you need to tip bellhops, and only if service is good.

Etiquette

Russians are sticklers for formality and can be superstitious; Chinese and Mongolians are a little more relaxed. Follow these tips to avoid faux pas.

A Visiting Homes In Russia, shaking hands across the threshold is considered unlucky; wait until you’re fully inside. Always bring a gift. In all three countries, remove your shoes and coat on entering a house.

A Religion Dress accordingly and conservatively when visiting churches, mosques and Buddhist and Taoist temples in all three countries.