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Safety a concern for Myanmar youth, but Thingyan still a time to play with friends
THE universities and schools are closed for the break and the Myanmar New Year, Thingyan, has come around once again. For the young people of Myanmar, the excitement of the water festival is sometimes unbearable they just cannot wait to get into the spirit of the holiday. Water fights and family events await and a sense of community and country fills the air. I will play with my friends at the Thingyan pavilion which is located in Kandawgyi Park, said 19-year-old Thurein. My friends and I are all so excited .... we can make each other feel cool by pouring water on each other. I want to pour water on other people and they are welcome to pour water on me. We can forget everything and have a lot of fun, Thurein said. Since the beginning of March, Thurein has been preparing for the festival with his friends. This year, he said, he will go around Yangon and play in the water. Thurein is a Christian and for Christians there is no option for meditation, so some churches

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Lwin Mar Htun and Aung Kyaw Nyunt offer young people the chance to attend a four-day camp during the Thingyan holiday. He enjoyed it last year, he says, but it is not something he wants to do Im thinking of spending the other three days at a pandal. We havent chosen the location of the pandal yet, he said. Thingyan also marks the end of the stressful matriculation exam period for students, allowing them to release their tension by spending time with friends and family. Ma Myint Moh Tun Thar recently sat for her matriculation exam in the northern city of Taunggyi. After the exam, I have complete peace of mind. Im going to Inle Lake with my parents during the holiday. We will visit pagodas in different places. I am very happy now because I will go with my family. Yamin Phyu in Yangon said she also will skip the water throwing during the Thingyan Festival and will take a trip with her family. We haven't made a decision where we'll go, she said. Maybe we'll go to Nay Pyi Taw. Although she loves to join the fun of Thingyans famous water fights, Yamin Phyus parents dont allow her to play at the pandals set up around the city. She has permission from her parents to play on the pandals near her house, but thats all. Besides, she says, she is happy to take a trip with her parents and see Nay Pyi Taw. Last year during Thingyan, Yamin went to a meditation centre, but like Thureins church camp, attending a meditation

"We can forget everything and have a lot of fun.


again. The fun is not only for students. Ko Thein Htoo Aung works at a bank and he plans to spend his break releasing some stress by throwing water at strangers from the back of an open truck. I will go around town on the first day, said Ko Thein Htoo Aung.

Pic: Ko Taik

THINGYAN 2013
Editors: Myo Lwin, Jessica Mudditt Cover models: Nang Khae Marr, Wint Yamone Hlaing, M. Seng Lu Clothes by Joker Cover Photo: Htet Aung Kyaw (Studio HAK) Photographers: Ko Taik, Boothee

Special Report

Pic: Ko Taik centre during Thingyan is an experience she does not want to repeat. When I went to the meditation centre during Thingyan, there were so many people, both old and young, that I couldnt concentrate, she said. Also, because there were so many people, Yamin said she sometimes could not use the toilet in the morning because the lines were so long. That was a big deal for me, she said. Since she was 14 years old, Ma Sabai has also spent five days every Thingyan at a meditation centre specifically the Mahasi Sasana Yeiktha centre. She is now 26 years old. By meditating, our spirit will be raised and we can be patient with others, said Ma Sabai. I think it makes my mind more peaceful.

Writers: Yu Yu Maw, Myo Lwin, Maria Danmark, Htar Htar Khin, Nuam Bawi, Yamon Phu Thit, Thiha Toe, Phyo Wai Kyaw, Khin Hsu Wai, Zon Pann Pwint, Su Hlaing Tun, Bill OToole, Lwin Mar Htun, Aung Kyaw Nyunt Cover & Layout Design: Tin Zaw Htway, Ko Pxyo, Khin Zaw For enquiries and feedback: myolwin@myanmartimes.com.mm jess.mudditt@gmail.com

Phyu Phyu Kyaw Thein. Pic: Ko Taik

Lay Phyu. Pic: MT Archive

Zaw Win Htut. Pic: MT Archive

Kyar Pauk. Pic: MT Archive

Where to get your groove on


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Nuam Bawi WHERE to celebrate the Thingyan Water Festival is one of the most discussed topics among family and friends as Myanmars new year approaches. Its no wonder that celebrity fans want to know which singer, rock band or rapper will be at which pandal and when, so they can spend the time during Thingyan enjoying their performances, or maybe even meet them in person. The Myanmar Times has all the latest information for fans: who will be where and when, making it easier to choose the places to go and enjoy Thingyan. First up the rock bands: The Grand Royals pandal at Kandawgyi, Myawsinkyun will feature Big Bag, the Wanted and the Idiots. My Century pandal will star The Reason. For those who enjoy Myanmars classic rock: The Iron Cross band will be on Pyay Road in front of Inya Lake together with their own singer Lay Phyu, Ahnge, Myo Gyi and Wyne Wyne. Zaw Win Htut also will enjoy the festival near Inya Lake together with his own music band Emperor. For pop rock: The Lion City pandal in Bayint Naung Township will feature The Ugly together with the Me N Ma Girls, Sandy Myint Lwin and Soe Pyae Thazin. For Mandalay, here are some options: The Alpine pandal in Mandalay will feature The Tree together with R Zarni, Phoe Kar, Han Tun, Lwin Moe, Khant Si Thu, Kaung Myat Lay, San Htut, A Sai, May Sweet, Tin Zar Maw, Htun Eaindra Bo, Phyu Phyu Kyaw Thein, Khine Thin Kyi, Khin Lay Nwe, No and Saing San.

Mandalay's festivities on tap


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Phyo Wai Kyaw EXPERIENCING the full extent of the Thingyan water festival, from the antiquity of Myanmar culture to the intensity of modern water fights, is impossible without heading north to the countrys cultural capital: Mandalay. Thingyan in Mandalay is famous for its multitude of pandals (stages) encircling the citys centrallylocated palace moat. Every year the moat is filled with revelers preparing to take aim at passersby using high-pressure fire hoses. In the days leading up to the festival, temperatures in Mandalay can push well past 40 Celsius: making people all the more eager to be doused. This years Thingyan promises to be one the citys best. Officials recently announced that they aim to make Mandalay a destination for all Myanmar people and have allowed 40 water-throwing pandals to be erected in several key locations around town. In addition to the Royal Palace Moat area, pandals will also be permitted for the first time this year at Mandalays Kandawgyi Lake. Low water supply has been cited in years past as the reason for not allowing pandals at Kandawgyi, but officials said they are confident enough water can be supplied for the four day party. A comedian from Mandalay by the name of Hnote Khan Mwe Par Par Lay once said that the essence of Thingyan is the sound of Myanmar musical instruments the short draws and big drums. Of particular note is the rhythmic Thingyan songs Nyo Mya and Sharbondaw Minthargyi (In Search of My Lover). In the past, locals competed against each other with their singing and dancing skills, while water was thrown all around. Modern techno tunes will also be booming from the open cars belonging to Myanmars youth. Mandalays best water-throwing pandals: The Royal Palace Moat Along the Southern Royal Moat, near 26th Street, there will be 16 dance and water-throwing pavilions The Eastern Royal Moat, on 16th Street, will have 15 water-throwing pavilions The Western Royal Moat on 80th Street will have four water-throwing pavilions. There are no pandals permitted on the citys north side, but 12th Street is famous among locals in Mandalay for its hand to hand bucket to bucket water fights. Kandawgyi Lake There will be about 10 stages around Kandawgyi Lake this year. Because it is the first time in many years that locals have been allowed to throw water at Kandawgyi, this location should be given preference. Translated by Khin Aung and Thaung Nyunt

Pic: Phyo Wai Kyaw

Mandalay 2012. Pic: MT Archive

Getting home gets pricey


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Thiha Toe MOST people who work in major cities such as Yangon and Mandalay look forward to returning to their families for a break during the Thingyan festival. Due to the high demand for bus and train tickets, black market agents go into overdrive by inflating the cost of last minute ticket purchases. Some passengers told The Myanmar Times that they suspect the agents are collaborating with transport companies to fix prices at double or even triple the normal rate. I had to go back to Mandalay last year so I wanted to order a ticket over the phone. I was told it wasnt possible and that I had to come in person, said Ma Sandar Phyo. The 25-year-old works in Yangon but her family lives in Mandalay, where she was born. She said, By the time I arrived at the main office, I was told it was too late to buy a ticket. A black market agent said I could buy a ticket for K25,000 instead of K10,500. Unsatisfied with price, Sandar Phyo negotiated a K5000 discount. I was so disappointed in myself and with the agents Ill make sure I get a ticket much earlier next year. Ko Khun Than Naung, 23, is a student at Maritime University in Yangon. He was born in Taunggyi, Shan State, and said he often gets too busy to buy his ticket well in advance. He misses his family so much that hes prepared to pay triple the regular amount for a ticket and has done so many times. A member of the Yangon Region Highway Supervisory Committee for Motor Vehicles, Ma Hta Tha, said the committee prohibits inflated ticket prices and blames unofficial agents for exploiting the public during the busy festival season.

Pic: Boothee

Water festival comes to San Francisco


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Bill OToole When the people of Myanmar celebrate Thingyan this year, they will be joined in spirit by revellers half a world away. This summer, the Burmese community and cultural centre of San Francisco will host its second annual Thingyan festival in Kennedy Park. The mission of the [festival] is to share our commonalities, teach our heritage to our children, preserve our culture and showcase the festival," stated a press from the organisers, the San Francisco Bay Area Burmese Community (SFBBC). Beyond the water hijinks, festivities will include a food fair, a talent show, and a beauty pageant. Though the days events will not be overtly religious, time will be set aside for prayers and paying respects to elders, stated the press release. Because of the cool, windy springs the Bay area is famous for, the organisers decided to move the festival back to May 26, when the hot weather will be more conducive to dousing the assembled guests with water. The SFBBC has held many high profile public events in the last several years, including a visit from Daw Aung San Suu Kyi in September 2012. While the Thingyan festival will cater mostly to Burmese from the California area, organisers said in a press release that they are expecting attendees from across the United States. The festival is just one of many Thingyan celebrations held in the United States every year. Local Burmese community leaders organise festivals across the country, said Khet Mar, a Myanmar journalist and activist based in Washington DC. We will have big ones in Silver Springs, Maryland, Los Angeles, Fort Wayne, Indiana and many more around the states soon, he said. The number of ThingA Thingyan water hose. Pic: Ko Taik yan festivals in the United States has increased due to a growing population of immigrants from Myanmar. Since 2001, nearly 100,000 refugees have been resettled by the US State Department, creating pockets of Myanmar life in the American heartland. Proceeds from the event will go towards education and outreach programs at the Burmese Cultural and Community Centre, which is located in downtown San Francisco and works to help newly and not-so-newly arrived immigrants deal with the unique challenges of life in the US. As with many emerging communities who have left their homeland, often not by their choosing, a lack of financial resources is the number one challenge [immigrants] face every day, read a statement from the SFBBC. With a population quickly approaching 10,000 in Northern California...the committee concluded that a centralised community centre would be the most effective means of delivering much needed support. In addition to serving the local community of Myanmar people, the press release announcing the event said, This is not limited to Burmese and is an invitation to everyone to come and celebrate an important day in Burmese culture and share the joy together. The festival is celebrated with water as a symbol of the flow of time, washing away past misdeeds to provide spiritual renewal, and greeting the up-coming monsoon to bring a bountiful new beginning.

Meditation centres prepare for Thingyan


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Khin Hsu Wai WHEN teaching Vipassana, a form of meditation that focuses on mindfulness of breathing and cultivating a sense of impermanence, Mogok Sayadaw teaches others how to become fully aware of their surroundings. Without having a sense of mindfulness in this mundane world, we become full of greed, anger and ignorance. Years can be lost before we are able to recognise these negative traits in ourselves, he said. While most young people will revel in the fun of Thingyan celebrations, others will spend up to 10 days in the silent meditation practice of Vipassana. For young and old alike, Thingyan is a time to reflect at a meditation centre, washing away the distractions of the past year with the power of dhamma rather than water. Most Myanmar people observe the more spiritual side of Thingyan by making donations and sending young sons to monasteries to serve as novices (temporary monks). Others spend the days at monasteries, taking the Eight Precepts, which are moral guidelines to maintain a healthy, non-harmful existence. Others make a point of performing good deeds, such as helping the elderly or setting animals free such as birds or fish. Ma Wa Wa, a spokesperson from Mogok Vipassana Centre, Kywe-se-kam, in Mandalay said her centre is busy preparing for a surge in the number of people meditating during from March 27. The number of Yawgis (people meditating) here last year was about 3000, she said. Admission fees for courses at the Mogok centre are K5000, which is given as a donation. The traditional Thingyan courses typically lasts eight days, from April 13 to April 20, but the centre runs meditation practice courses every month, Ma Wa Wa said. Dr Soe Win, secretary of the Myanmar Medical Association,

Pic: Ko Taik said he is going to work voluntarily in a mediation centre clinic called the Pale Philanthropic Foundation. He will attend to the estimated 100 Yawgis who may need medical care during the period. It will be provided free of charge. I have already enrolled at a meditation centre to practice insight meditation. But I will stop and come out from the centre on the last day of Thingyan to go around town with my friends and revel in the Thingyan festival, said a female student from Yadanapon University. Translated by Ko Ko

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Thingyan 1952, Nat Mauk Road. Pic: James E. Boyce Supplied by James Cannon Boyce

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Having fun and staying safe


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Yamon Phu Thit With Thingyan just around the corner, everyones looking forward to some well-deserved fun. But with the feisty nature of the water festival, people also need to look after their own health too. The Myanmar Times Yamon Phu Thit interviewed Dr Hlaing Soe Wai, a general practitioner in Yangon, for some great tips on how you can stay safe this year. Take precautions against the strong sun Recent reports show that the amount of UV rays in Myanmar has exceeded what is considered a safe level. Scientists say that the sun is strongest between 10am and 2pm, so take particular care during these hours. Overexposure to sunlight can cause sunburn, skin pigmentation, skin rash and of course, skin cancer. Its best to take care of your skin by applying sunscreen and staying in the shade as much as possible while enjoying the festival outside. Also, wear clothes that shade your face and skin a hat is a great choice. Stay clear of soiled food As its generally impossible to see the food being made, its important to take extra care when choosing where you eat. Be sure to avoid street food that is covered with flies. Consuming contaminates can cause diarrhea, foodpoisoning, stomach infections and other unpleasant side-effects. Always be careful to avoid food that has been lying out in the sun all day this breeds bacteria. Keep your cool The hot season is upon us, with scorching temperatures hitting well above 40C. This year, meteorologists predict that temperatures across the country will be signifcantly hotter than last year. So make sure to stay cool this Thingyan: dehydration can cause cramping, exhaustion or even heat stroke. Avoid dehydration by making sure to drink plenty of water, and remember to take a rest when the temperature is especially high or when youre not feeling well. Heat exhaustion and strokes are serious: Make sure to get anyone with symptoms such as dizziness and numbness to the hospital emergency room right away. Beware the nozzles The water festival isnt as tame as it used to be. Some pandals (stages), allow participants to use high-pressure hoses to blast bystanders with water. Although this might sound incredibly fun, it can also be incredibly dangerous. When you walk past the pandals, make sure to cover your eyes and ears. It would be wise to carry a towel to cover your face for extra protection. Drink responsibly The water festival is a time when people relax their mind and body which for many means drinking more alcohol than usual. However heat and alcohol is a dangerous combination as it can result in a number of health problems. Alcohol is a diuretic which means that it promotes dehydration and interferes with your bodys ability to regulate its own temperature. Therefore, people should drink responsibly. The other hazard that goes hand-in-hand with high alcohol consumption is accidents. Every year, the number of accidents goes up due to excessive drinking during festival time.

Pic: MT Archive

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Danish New Years Eve: cool times


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Maria Denmark In Denmark, a country in far northern Europe with only five million inhabitants and a landmass 15 times smaller than Myanmar, New Years Eve is celebrated very differently. Celebrations take place on the night of 31 December to 1 January, in temperatures ranging from about -1 to 4 Celsius and with the possibility of snow needless to say, water is not a component of the many traditions surrounding New Years Eve in Denmark. Like in Myanmar, the Danish New Year is a light-hearted affair and it involves a lot of games and teasing neighbours and friends. While growing up, it was a common sight in my neighbourhood to see Christmas trees flying from a neighbours flagpole. People used to do this as a cheeky way of getting out of chopping up and disposing of their own tree. When I was little, my friends and I used to sneak toothpaste into peoples mailboxes others set off fireworks in mailboxes or sprayed shaving cream on windows. However its always a balancing act between teasing and outright vandalism, and many people actually remove their mailbox for the night to prevent it from getting blown up. This sort of mischief takes place during the day, because in the evening people gather together with family. Everything sphere is created by filling the centre of the table with streamers, balloons, party-poppers, crackers and candles in all colours of the rainbow. Guests themselves do not hold back: Many go to dinner wearing silly hats and blow paper horns throughout. But before sitting down to dinner, its a tradition to watch the About 2 million people almost half the population - sits glued to the screen. In her most recent speech, the Queen cautioned young people about the dangers of spending too much time on the internet, and on Facebook in particular. After discussing events in the year gone by, her sign-off is always God save Denmark. As I entered my twenties, my experience of New Years Eve changed quite a lot. Like pretty much every other young person, the focus turned to finding the best party to go to with friends. People often say the night is over-rated that theres too much pressure to have the time of your life in one night. I think Myanmar has got it right by spreading the celebrations out over 10 days. Mobile phone use goes into overdrive on New Years Eve, because its a modern tradition to send a greeting after midnight to friends and family. In 2010-11, the Danes sent 53 million text messages on that single day, which is almost double the average. Telecom companies reported that that during the Queens speech at 6pm, the lines were quiet, but in the minute after midnight, 750 messages were sent per second.

Many people actually remove their mailbox for the night to prevent it getting blown up.
in Denmark is celebrated with delicious and plentiful food, and this is especially so during Christmas and New Years Eve. Codfish used to be the most popular traditional dish, but today almost anything from oysters to beef can be served and devoured. Something that hasnt changed much at all is the decorations on the dining table. A festive atmoQueens New Years Eve speech. In Denmark, the monarch has given New Years Eve speeches since 1941. The speech was first televised in 1959 and has been so ever since. Queen Margrethe IIs New Years Eve speech from Amalienborg Palace is the only time of the year when the Queen gives a live telecast, so its popular among both older and younger viewers.

As the plates are being cleared from the table at around half past eleven, we turn on the TV again. Before the countdown to midnight from the Copenhagen City Hall begins, people enjoy watching a British sketch on TV called Dinner for one. The sketch was first shown Years Eve in 1973 and its in black and white, but people love watching an upper class lady called

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New Year's Eve in Denmark Pics: Supplied by Maria Danmark Miss Sophie celebrate her 90th birthday in the company of her butler, James, and four friends. Unfortunately, all her friends are dead, but the demented Miss Sophie cannot remember that, so the butler must act as and drink for all guests. In the course of the story he therefore becomes exceedingly drunk and drinks water from a flower vase and stumbles over a tiger skin rug a couple of times. All this is accompanied by a question: The same procedure as last year, Miss Sophie? to which she replies, The same procedure as every year, James. When the sketch was pulled in 1985, there was a public outcry among the Danes, so it returned the following year. During the countdown, people stand on a chair or a sofa and then leap off at the stroke of midnight. This custom began about 50 years ago and it is believed that it brings good luck by avoiding stepping in the gap between the old and the new year. We then defy the cold by heading outside to watch the fireworks. Until about 300 years ago, it was believed that the noise of the fireworks scared the demons away, but today we do it simply because its pretty and because we can fireworks are only permitted from December 1 to January 5. Other superstitions from the 17th Century include a message from the sky. If the sky was red before sunrise on New Years Day, it heralded war, plague and storms, while sunshine indicated a fruitful and peaceful year ahead. Another superstition involved finding out which relative would die first. According to the history books, the oldest members of the family threw a small amount of porridge on the ground and a farm dog was called in. If the dog ate your mound of porridge first, you would be the first to die. It all sounds rather grim! In any case, Im looking forward to experiencing New Years Eve in Myanmar in 40 Celsius heat I know its going to be one to remember.

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W h y

w e

l o v e

T h i n g y a n

Pics: Ko Taik

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Car rentals await Thingyan merry makers


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Myo Lwin Thingyan has always been notorious for its traffic jams, as young people and old alike have rushed to rent cars, trucks and jeeps during the New Years festivities and get soaked in the sun as they ride around town with friends. But this year, with an estimated 100,000 new cars on the road since December 2011, things might get really hectic - especially for the 20 car-rental companies that depend on revenue from the holiday. The Taw Win car rental in downtown Yangon said it had not had any bookings from Thingyan merry makers this year, though it has reserved more than 100 cars through an agent. Daw Chan Myae, a sales executive from Taw Win said bookings for Thingyan started in midMarch last year. But its not happened yet, she told the Myanmar Times. I have no idea why bookings have been late this year, she said. Last year, we made 20 to 30 contracts a day on average between the car owners and the Thingyan revelers We had more tomers to leave Yangon than to stay. Ma Sar Ehler said more visitors are spending the festival period in Chaungtha Beach, Ayeyawaddy Region and Kyaik-hti-yoe Golden Rock Mountain Pagoda in Mon Sate than in previous years. Last year we had about one 45-seater each on average going to Chaungtha and Kyaik-hti-yoe, said Ma Sar Ehler. This year two or three cars are going to two places every day, she said. I have no idea why more people are travelling outside of Yangon. I think more and more people in Yangon needs a break to relieve their stress, Ma Sar Ehler said. Chaungtha and Kyaik-hti-yoe are the two places most popular because these trips can be made for one night and two days and less expensive than other places like Ngapali or Ngwe Saung or the trips to Shan state and upper Myanmar places including Bagan, Nyaung- Oo,Mandalay, said Ma Sar Ehler. A two-way ticket for Chaungtha is K15,000 and Kyaik-hti-yoe K10,000 both a little over 110 miles from Yangon. Prices will increase during Thingyan as there will be more travellers. Hotels and guest houses will definitely raise their rates, said Ma Sar Ehler.

Pics: Ko Taik than 200 cars hired out during the four-day event last year, she said. Car rentals fees will remain the same as last year. Taw Win, for example, charges K100,000 a day for a jeep for 10 people from 8am to 6pm. For a light truck, the rate is K120,000 for up to 18 people. Agents normally take a 10 percent agent fees for each contract and are responsible for any problems between the car owner and hirers. Most people go to busy places such as Inya Road, Kandawgyi Park, Pyay Road and Kyaikasan Street in Yangon. The general terms for Thingyan car hirers are that they must not cause damage to their own or other vehicles and the car must stay within Yangons municipal area. If the car is damaged due to the hirers, the latter have to pay compensation. Ma Sar Ehler from Shwe Nagar Car Rental and Pilgrimage Travel and Tour Company said she believes there will be heavy traffic jams during water festival because of the influx of car imports. Some travel agents said that the huge influx of cars is why they are getting more bookings from cus-

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Beach vacations during Thingyan: tem


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Yu Yu Maw Many hotels and agents are heavily marketing get away vacations for the long Thingyan break, enticing Myanmars city dwellers with the promise of a holiday in paradise, lounging away along the beautiful Bay of Bengal. But watch your wallet: This year, hotel prices will be twice as expensive as last year and this time, the escape to the beach might not even include a packaged breakfast or lunch. Some locals are put off by the high prices this year, said Ko Thein Zaw Win, sales manager for Shan Yoma Travel in Yangon. When they discover the price, some will postpone the trip indefinately, said Ko Thein Zaw Win. But others are desperate to go and will pay any price. Hotel room rates are always significantly higher during the Thingyan holiday and Ko Thein Zaw Win said they are even more expensive this year than in 2012. Hotels are also offering fewer services for their clients this year, often opting not to include breakfast or lunch in the packages. We dont need to offer a special package promotion for Thingyan as we have already received full bookings for the period, said a spokesperson from Pleasant View Hotels in Ngapali Beach. Ngapali is often considered the most expensive beach in Myanmar, but because it is located in Rakhine State where there has been some political conflict in the past year tourism in the area has suffered. Most foreigners, however, still choose Ngapali Beach because of its top class beaches.

Yangon Region Chief Minister U Myint Swe at Rakhine Thingyan 2012. Pic: Ko Taik Hotel rooms are almost fully booked for this Thingyan season and Ko Thein Zaw Win estimates that occupancy will be at around 90 pc at all beach locations, but if clients are flexible with price its still possible to find rooms. Ngapali is located 7 kilometres from the town of Thandwe and hugs the coast for 3km, overlooking the Indian Ocean. A third of visitors at Ngapali beach are tourists, and more tourists have booked hotel rooms this year as compared to last year, according to hoteliers in the area. Daily flights to Ngapali can be booked with Myanmar Airways, Yangon Airways, Air Mandalay, Air KBZ and Air Bagan to Thandwe airport during peak season (October to May), while flights are weekly during the low season ( June to September). A spokesperson from the Emerald Sea Resort at Ngwe Saung beach said his hotel has been selling rooms for Thingyan since last year. The Emerald Hotel also does not offer a complimentary meal as part of the package, he said guests are simply given bread with coconut milk in the afternoon. Ngwe Saung beach is situated on the western seaboard of the country, south of Ngapali and facing the Bay of Bengal. This year, Ko Thein Zaw Win said hotel rates in Ngwe Saung are slightly higher than in Ngapali. Ngwe Saung is famous for its accessibility, which attracts a high number of visitors. A road from Yangon connects Ngwe Saung beach via Pathein, the capital city of Ayeyarwaddy Region. In five hours, driving along the Yangon-PatheinChaungtha Highway, you can be transported to a totally different environment, away from the dust, grime and commotion of the city to tranquil Ngwe Saung Beach. Room rates differ according to location and the service level. For Ngapali, all the hoteliers said they are selling rooms for between K100,000 ($115) and K200,000 ($230) for

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empting but costly

Pic: Ko Taik Ngwe Saung and ($105) to K200,000 ($230) for Ngapali, for Myanmar tourists. Another famous beach with locals is Chaungtha, which is located due north of Ngwe Saung. We already have 80pc room occupancy for Thingyan, said U Min Kyaw Oo, secretary of the Chaungtha Hotelier Association. Chaungthas hotels increase room rates by just one percent for Thingyan, he said. Chaungtha beach is located 40 km to the west of Pathein in Ayeyawaddy Region. It is accessible on the same road that leads to Ngwe Saung (on the highway from Yangon via Pathein).

Ngapali Beach. Pic: Jessica Mudditt

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88 years strong, the Myoma Musical Troupe brings a Mandalay Thingyan tradition to Yangon
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Zon Pann Pwint IT started in Mandalay in the 1920s with a small group of amateur musicians: A troupe of friends with a passion for music, parading through Chinatown and Saing Tan with their wind and string instruments and their car, fixed with silver goose as the bands mark. The Myoma Musical Troupe, also known as Buddha Wayarwutsa, played their banjos, mandolins, harps and guitars together for artistic pursuit, especially during the Myanmar festival of Thingyan. They all passionately loved to play music, the instruments they played, Dr Hla Khine, who now serves as chairman of the modern-day Myoma Musical Troupe said. Dr Hla Khine said the band formed in 1925, founded by Ko Ba Nyein, whose pseudonym performances. Myoma Nyein passed away in 1955, composing over 150 songs during his professional life, including Hnayaut Hte (Merely Two); Chit Tar Padana (Love is Fundamental); Binjo, Khin Eainmat (My Ladys Dream); and Sagaing Taung (Sagaing Hill). From 1935 to 1939, he recorded over 40 albums and composed a number of Thingyan songs that became iconic. He also won a Myanmar Academy award for the theme to the movie Thingyan Moe (Thingyan Rain). There was nothing like that in the music industry before Myoma Nyein, said Dr Hla Khine. After him, there has not been much else We still play and sing his songs when our troupe is invited to perform at wedding receptions and during the Thingyan days when our band tours around. In 1928, a Chinese pawn shop owner with a passionate interest in music gave the band K1000 and they reorganised to include a variety of wind instruments as well. There were name changes, too, over the years, Dr Hla Khine said, such as the time they changed the bands name to Nay Pyi Taw, but changed it back because group members found it to be too dignified. It was then, he said, that the name Myoma was finalised and confirmed. During the Thingyan days, the Myoma Musical Troupe started touring around the city in their vehicle with members playing music and dancing on the vehicle, and it stayed like that until 1978, Dr. Hla Khine said. A series of fires hampered the groups activities throughout the 1980s, damaging instruments but not the troupes spirits. The band restarted touring during Thingyan in 1996 and has continued the tradition until the present time. The Myoma Musical Troupe band will perform on April 6 on the lawn of the National Theatre in Yangon.

Pic: MT Archive was Myoma Nyein, with Ko Gyi Ohn, Ko Gyi Ngwe, Ko Thant, Ko Hla Din and Ko Mya Thein as the original members. The Myoma Musical Troupe bands fame rose by the efforts of its leader and Myanmar composer Myoma Nyein, who taught music to the young band members until they perfected their

22

In Nay Pyi Taw, a more subdued Thingyan


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Su Hlaing Tun JUST three years ago, Myanmars young, capital city Nay Pyi Taw was alive and kicking for Thingyan. Celebrities and dignitaries were given special invitations to Thingyan festivities and many large pandals, or stages, were constructed by local hotels and businesses with the latest sound systems, lighting and technology, all with the intent of showcasing the newly constructed city. Although many dignitaries were invited to take part in Thingyan events involving the government this year, organisers say the 2013 Thingyan festival will be far more quiet: with fewer pandals, less water throwing and more indoor activities. One reason cited for this change, organisers say, is money. Those familiar with the hotel industry say setting up one large pandal can cost up to K100 million (US$113,186). We had a pandal for two consecutive years, said Thein Htwe, the manager of Hotel Shwe Pyi Taw. Because it is too costly, we have no plan to build a pandal this year. Some pandals, however, are still under construction and should be ready in time for Thingyan. The mayors Central Pandal, sponsored by the Nay Pyi Taw Development Committee, and local media Sky Net will both set up pandals at the Golden Guest Hotel. Sky Net will broadcast live from the event. The one thing that will not change this year is the performance of the Yein dance troupe at the opening ceremony, held on the eve of the first night of the festival. As Nay Pyi Taw is the seat of the new government in Myanmar, employees and their families have fewer places to go for entertainment than Yangon or Mandalay. To compensate, various outdoor parks and indoor entertainment facilities have been built in the city in the past several years, including a large zoological garden complete with animals from Africa. More recently, a park in honour of Myanmars national tribes was constructed: the National Land Mark. Several small water throwing pandals will be arranged different construction companies at the park. This more subdued Thingyan may be in line with the conservative nature of the city. In Yangon and Mandalay, the young people of Myanmar will often dress in their skimpiest clothing, colour their hair and drink copious amounts of alcohol throughout the week-long party. This happens in Nay Pyi Taw as well, but this year state-run media have reported that government officials said they would take action if the dress does not conform to the culture. The citys sudden development brought a sense of excitement for the natives in the first few years, but now, its main street, Bogyoke Street, is not as much fun during Thingyan as it has been for the past few years, residents say. We go to hotel pandals because we want to be soaked with water, but we have to wait there more and more to get drenched, said Ko Tun Lwin, a resident of Ywa Kaut village in nearby Pyinmana. Translated by Thit Lwin

Nay Pyi Taw Thingyan 2012. Pics: MT Archive

23

The business of pandal permits


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Htar Htar Khin THE number of applications to erect large and medium-sized stages (pandals) around Yangon is higher this year than in 2012, but with the number of such stages limited to 40 for the 2013 festival, many applicants are disappointed to learn that their bids have been rejected by the Yangon City Development Committee (YCDC). The rejections, say some pandal builders and Thingyan organisers, were totally unexpected and will result in a loss of revenue. Ko Myint Aung, 33, is one such organiser and pandal builder. He said he feels depressed about YCDCs decision to reject his application. Before submitting his application, he was so confident that everything would be fine that he and his partners pre-sold stage tickets. By the time he received the bad news, he had already collected K1.8 million ($2060). We usually build Thingyan pandals at Kandawgyi, in front of Myanmar Medical Association, Ko Myint Aung said. Even though Im very eager to build pandals every year, its not profitable any more. YCDCs Road and Bridge Department received 85 applications for large and medium sized-pandals, said U Myo Lwin, the deputy head of the department. Officials granted the highest number of pandals to be built around Kandawgyi Lake, with 17 applications already approved. One of the most happening areas for large pandals will be Kaba Aye Pagoda Road 10 applications have been approved so far. There will be two pandals on Pyi Road and Mingalar Taung Nyunt and three along Parami Road. Another large pandal has been approved on Sayasan Road. South Okkalapa; Bayint Naung Road; Lower Kyeemyindaing Road; Ahlone Road and Myoma Playground will all feature a large pandal. Building large pandals is expensive: Deposit fees and land use

A pandal partly constructed in Nay Pyi Taw last week. Pic: Su Hlaing Tun charges for the elaborate stages can reach K8 million ($8600) and the medium-sized stages cost K4.6 million ($5200). Deposit fees are refunded when the water festival is over, but there are also strict regulations and fines imposed to prevent damage to the environment. YCDC takes a cut from the deposit fees if participants do not respect the rules, U Myo Lwin said. Twenty-seven guidelines for applicants were set for this years water festival. He said that an example of a new guideline is requiring builders to put fire extinguishers on their pandals as a preventative measure. Permission to build pandals was granted through a voting system last month and involved a committee for the Thingyan Festival and the Prime Minister. The final announcement was made on March 23. U Khin Tun builds pandals for a living and had applied to build his own pandal for the 2013 Thingyan holiday near Kandawgyi Lake. Although his application was rejected, he said he still has a lot of other work involving Thingyan. In the past he mostly built small pandals, but he now has more than five contracts to build large and medium-sized ones. I hope YCDC is more flexible for pandal permits, he said. There should be 100 pandals in Yangon.

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