Apparel Internship Document

APPAREL INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP
AT
AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED

CHENNAI
SUBMITTED BY:
SHISHIR GUPTA UDAY SHANKAR JHA Bachelor of Fashion Technology (Batch 2004 08)
DEPARTMENT OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY HYDERABAD

INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI Page 1
CERTIFICATE
This is to certify that the following students of Fashion Technology Department specializing in Apparel Production
Shishir Gupta Uday Shankar Jha
had carried out Apparel Industry Internship at Ambattur Clothing Limited, Chennai from 21st May 2007 to 13th July 2007.
Centre Coordinator
INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI
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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
The quest for knowledge provokes man to undertake many journeys in life. Through his pursuit, there are various people who extend their invaluable support to make it a success we would like to extend our sincere gratitude to those people whose help and guidance made our apparel internship at ACL possible. First of all we would like to thank Mr. Indevar Pandey (Director NIFT, Hyderabad) and Dr. P Krishna Mohan (Registrar NIFT, Hyderabad) for giving us an opportunity to have first hand experience of the Apparel Industry. We sincerely thank our course co-ordinator Mr.Sanjay Shrivastava and Mr Rajasekhar (RIC,NIFT,Hyd) who took pains in arranging for the internship and ensuring its success . We are extremely thankful to Mr. S.V.Srinivan (HRM), Mr. Amaan, Mr. Bala and Mr. Sairam for their cordial warmth and support that they have extended. We are extend our sincere and heartfelt gratitude to Mr.Radha Krishnan (factory manager), Mr. Shiva Kumar (Production Executive), Mr. Vasu Devan and Mr.Ajay for their continuous, encouraging and patient support. Without their practical advice and valuable experience and expertise, we would never have completed this report.
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PREFACE
The Industry internship is a means to provide fresh college student a practical knowledge about the industry work culture. The internship acted as a interface where we experienced how the theoretical learning and input of three years of education in NIFT can be applied to real life situations. This experience was indeed made wonderful with the help and support given by people from Indias one of the best manufacturing unit Ambattur Clothing Limited. ACL is a place where best brands are manufactured with great care and customers are looked upon as god. Gap, Banana Republic, J Jill, J Crew, Old Navy, Ann Taylor, Espirit, Levis, Diesel are some of the brand names which would obviously require no introduction. Working with such a big name was really an achievement. The document describes the structural and functional working aspects of a Garment manufacturing unit through our experience in Ambattur Clothing Limited.
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TABLE OF CONTENT
Sr. No.
TOPIC
Pg. No.
1 1.1 1.2 1.3 1.5 1.4 2 2.1 2.2 3 3.1 3.2 4 4.1 4.2 4.2.1 5 5.1 5.1.1
COMPANY PROFILE INTRODUCTION COMPANY FACT FILE CAPACITY LOCATION PRODUCT RANGE ORGANISATION CHART CORE MANAGEMENT PRODUCTION H.R. AND WELFARE DEPARTMENT ACL MISSION WELFARE MEASURES MARKETING AND MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT ORGANISATION HIERARCHY PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT DEPARTMENT A BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DIFFERENT STAGES PRE PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT PATTERN DEPARTMENT ORGANISATIONAL HIERARCHY
1 1 2 2 3 3-4 5 5 6 7 7 8 9 9 10 11-23 24 23 24-25
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5.1.2 5.2 5.2.1 5.2.2 5.3 5.3.1 5.4 5.4.1 6 6.1 6.2 7 7.1 7.2 8 8.1 8.2 9 9.1 9.1.1 9.1.2 9.2 9.3 9.4 10 10.1 10.1.1 10.2
FUNCTIONS CAD DEPARTMENT FUNCTIONS PM AND GRADING DETAILS SAMPLING DEPARTMENT COMPONENTS OF THE SAMPLING DEPARTMENT MARKER DEPARTMENT FUNCTIONS R & D DEPARTMNET FUNCTIONS COMMENTS FROM BUYER MIS DEPARTMENT BUSINESS MANAGEMENT CENTER PRODUCTION MANAGEMENT CENTER CENTRAL INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT OBJECTIVES OF CIED FUNCTIONS OF CIED EXPORT DEPARTMENT PRE-SHIPMENT DOCUMENTATION AEPC DOCUMENTATION CUSTOM DOCUMENTATION BUYING HOUSE DOCUMENTATION BUYER DOCUMENTATION LETTER OF CREDIT MATERIAL MAINTAINENCE CENTER FABRIC STORE FABRIC QUALITY CHECKING TRIMS STORE
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25 25 25 25-26 27 27 27 27 28 28 28-29 30 30-31 31-32 33 33 33-34 35 35 35 35-36 36 36 37 38 38-39 39-41 41-42
11 11.1 11.2 12 12.1 12.2 12.3 13 13.1 13.2 13.3 13.4 14 14.1 14.1.1 14.2 14.2.1 15 15.1 15.2 15.2.1 15.2.2 15.2.3 15.3 15.3.1 15.3.2 15.3.3 16
WASHING UNIT WORK FLOW IN THE WASHING UNIT FOR BULK PRODUCTION LAUNDRY MACHINERIES DETAIL PRODUCTION UNIT: ACL SP 10/8 INTRODUCTION FACT SHEET: ACL SP 10/8 ORGANISATIONAL CHART: SP 10/8 LAYOUTS CUTTING DEPATMENT LAYOUT SEWING DEPATMENT LAYOUT FINISHING DEPATMENT LAYOUT PACKAGING DEPATMENT LAYOUT STORES FABRIC STORE A BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE PROCESS FLOW TRIM STORE A BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE PROCESS FLOW CUTTING DEPARTMENT A BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE PROCESS FLOW M/C & TABLE DETAILS TABLES MACHINERY MISCELLANEOUS QUALITY CHECK IN CUTTING ROOM S.O.P. FOR SPREADING AUDITOR S.O.P. FOR CUTTING SUPERWISOR S.O.P FOR FUSING MECHANIC SEWING DEPARTMENT
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43 43-45 46 47 47 47-48 49 50 50 51 52 52 54 54 54-55 56 56-57 58-60 61-64 65 65 65 65 66 66 67 68 69
16.1 16.2 16.2.1 16.3 16.4 16.4.1 16.4.2 17 17.1 17.2 17.2.1 17.2.2 18 18.1 18.2 18.3 19 19.1 19.2 19.3 19.3.1 20 20.1 20.1.1
LINE SECTION KAJA SECTION A BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE PROCESS FLOW QUALITY CHECKING IN SEWING ROOM MACHINE ANE EQUIPMENT DETAIL MACHINES MISCELLANEOUS FINISHING DEPARTMENT A BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE PROCESS FLOW MACHINE AND EQUIPMENT DETAIL MACHINES MISCELLANEOUS PACKAGING DEPATMENT A BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE PROCESS FLOW EQUIPMENT DETAILS POLY BAG, BARCODE, CARTON STICKERS DETAIL QUALITY CONTROL DEPARTMENT LIST OF THE DETAILS TO BE CHECKED LIST OF THE DEFECT CHECKED AUDIT FIOW CHART IN ACL SAMPLE SELECTION TECHNIQUES MAINTAINENCE DEPARTMENT PREVENTIVE MAINTAINENCE PROCEDURE MECHANICAL MAINTAINENCE
70-72 73 73-74 75-76 77 77 77 78 78-81 82 82 82 83 83-84 84 85 86 86-87 87 88 88 89 89 89
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20.1.2 20.2 20.2.1 20.2.2 20.3 20.4 20.5 20.6 21 22
ELECTRICAL MAINTAINENCE BREAKDOWN MAINTAINENCE MECHANICAL MAINTAINENCE ELECTRICAL MAINTAINENCE SPARES INVENTORY ARRANGEMENT OF MACHINES & ATTACHMENTS GENERAL MAINTAINENCE WORKSHOP PROJECT CONCLUSION APPENDIX ANNXEURES
89 90 90 90 90 90 91 91 92-97 98
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1. COMPANY PROFILE 1.1 Introduction:

Ambattur Clothing Limited was incorporated in the year 1981 by Mr. Vijay Mahtaney (VIJU), who is a first generation entrepreneur. The company was started with a single factory with a work force of around 150 employees. In just 2 decades the organization has become the fifth largest exporter of garments in India, with a total workforce of over 15000 people employed in nine production facilities managed by the company. ACL has a very high reputation in the global market for its commitment to Quality and delivering within the stipulated time equipped with the latest state of the art technology. ACL specializes in the manufacture of Shirts, Trousers, Ladies wear, Jackets etc. ACL clientele includes GAP, BANANA REPUBLIC, J JILL, J CREW, OLD NAVY, ANN TAYLOR, ESPIRIT, LEVIS, DIESEL to name a few. COLOR PLUS which has a very high reputation in the domestic market was a part of the ACL group. CLOTHES ENCOUNTER is a retail division of ACL, which has got its showrooms in 7 locations across India. In a highly demanding industry like Apparel Exports, where competition from both domestic and abroad is fierce, Human Resource and Infrastructure decides sustenance and success of any key player. ACL has the positive edge in both the factors, which is the prime and sole reason for its success. Over the years, ACL has come to signify the best in the service and dependability for many of its clients. This resulted as a great achievement for the organisation as last year it has crossed an annual turn over of 140 Million US dollars. The organisation has also been rated as Best client in India by IDBI bank.
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1.2 Company Fact File:
Name of the Company Head office Establishment Year Managing Director Nature of Business Product Category Main Export Market No. of Workers Annual Turnover
Ambattur Clothing Limited 86/ E2, Industrial Estate, Ambattur, Chennai 1981 Mr. Vijay Mahtaney Export Product MiX USA, Europe, Canada, Middle East 15000 140 Million US Dollars
1.3 Capacity:
Location ACL, Chennai, India ACL, Bahrain Total
Capacity (2005-06) 8 Million pieces 3 Million Pieces. 11 Million Pieces.
Capacity (2006-07) 9 Million Pieces. 3 Million Pieces. 12 Million Pieces.
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1.4 Location:
Ambattur Group Ambattur Chennai, India Export Zone Chennai, India 2 Production Facilities 500 Machines ACIL Bahrain 1 Production facility 600 Machines
2000 Machines
1.5 Product Range:

Ambattur provides a wide variety of products. It manufactures bottoms from basic chinos, to denim, to classic wool pants. The factories are well equipped to sew, wash and pack the diversified range. Even in tops, it makes the basic shirts (mens & ladies) going on to dress shirts and fitted garments in fabrics ranging from polyester, linen & Voile.
Buyer wise product range distribution is described as follows: Product Woolen pants Two Ply Twill Chinos Cotton / Lycra Stretch Polyester / Blends Buyers Banana Republic, Gap, Liz Claiborne, Tommy Hilfiger Banana Republic, Next, Esprit, Gap, Kohls, Eddie Bauer Banana Republic, Ann Taylor, Liz Claiborne, Lauren Jones NY, Banana Republic, Levis, Ann Taylor.
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Cotton Shirts / Tops
Banana Republic, Arrow, Liz Claiborne, Eddie Bauer, Ann Taylor. Banana Republic, Liz Claiborne, Marks & Spencers, Gap Banana Republic, Gap Banana Republic, Esprit.
Linen Shirts / Pants Woolen Jackets Jackets Moleskin/ Cotton
Products range categorization on the basis of volume of manufacturing:
Product-mix
Others 5%
Tops 35%
Bottoms 60%
ACL product range can also be categorized product wise as follows:
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Product Range
Mens wear Shirts Trousers Jackets Shorts
Womens wear Top Skirts Pants Dresses Jackets Shorts
2. ORGANIZATIONAL CHART 2.1 Core Management:
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Mr. Vijay Mahtaney Managing Director
Production Units
Operational Functions
Support Functions
Ms.Ambika/ Mr.Bopanna Mr.Behram K Director - Production Director Merchandising/ VP - Merchandising
Mr.T Rajendran Head Human Resources Administration
Mr.Darius K Head R&D CAD/CAM/Sampling Quality Assurance
Mr.T Subramaniam Finance & Accounts MIS, Projects & IT
Mr.Vinayak T Head - MMC
Mr.V Paranthaman Head - Commercial
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2.2 Production:
Mr. Behram K Director
Mr. Manohar K Babu Genreral Manager
Mr. .Ganapathy S General Manager
Mr. Gopinath General Manager
MEPZ Division
Mr. Krishnan, FM Mr. Sekar/Mr. Mani, PM SP 53 Mr .Dave, FM Mr. Shaji, PM B 12
Mr. Anand, FM Mr. Prince, PM ( B 9) Mr. Rajendran PM (B 10)
Mr. Pawan / Mr. Sudhakar, FM
Mr. Anandraj, FM Mr. Raja, PM 69 B
Mr. Narasimhan, FM Mr. Balakrishna, PM B 13, B 15
Mr. Srikanth, FM Mr. Gopalan, PM D 26
Mr.Radhakrishnan , FM Mr.Shankar, PM SP 10/8
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3. HUMAN RESOURCE AND WELFARE DEPARTMENT
ACLs human resource policy stems from the underlying belief that human resource is one of its greatest assets. These assets appropriately motivated developed and above all professionally managed will be source for the advancement of ACLs corporate plans. Corporate personal policy strives to secure job satisfaction for all its employees. It is ACLs vision is to be the MOST PREFERRED EMPLOYER in garment industry and the means employee towards this end includes: Ensuring value driven management Highly contemporary HR practices Focus on candidates short term and long term plans Flexibility towards horizontal and vertical movement within the organization
3.1 ACLs Mission

To evolve a corporate work culture supportive of every individuals pursuit of dreams, equality of human dignity, ownership of organizational effectiveness and open communication for collaborative and cohesive team work To constantly foster strong customer orientation, highly accountable role holding and total performance alignment across the organization To incorporate the most effective and progressive training and development policy which strives to meet the rising demands of the organization, wherein every employee in the organization will undergo a minimum training on technical and behavioural areas in a given calendar year To constantly foster a congenial working environment which motivates every employee in the organization to facilitate maximum output To align with the changing Business Demands and Goals and accordingly institutionalize the key performance areas of the functional departments and every individual.
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Employee Welfare is a continuous process and Department emphasizes on developing suitable welfare measures, which are on par with the best industrial practices.
3.2 Welfare Measures Provided To Employees:

Medical facility: The organization has its medical centre located in SP-24, which has an in house medical practitioner, with renowned specialist visiting regularly. The service is totally subsidized and the employees have to pay a very nominal amount for registration. The centre also provides medicines at very nominal rates. Crche facility: The organization also offers crche facility to the employees children in the age group between 1-6 yrs of age. Certified and well trained personnel in childcare manage this facility. The centre also provides periodic health checkups for the children. Library facility: The organization has a corporate tie-up with British council library for taking care of the library needs of the employees and the organization. Every employee is eligible to avail this service and borrow books, periodicals, magazines, videos for a period of 2 weeks. Transportation facility: The organizations provide transportation facility where ever it is feasible. The HR department makes all the necessary arrangements. Company functions: Employees are called upon to participate in the any of the companys functions, either conducted in the premises or outside the premises on various occasions, including physical activities conducted regularly.
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4. MARKETING AND MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT

The company has exclusive teams of merchandisers for each buyer like GAP, Diesel, Eddie Bauer, Levis, Banana Republic and J- Jill respectively. The major functions of the department can be summarized as follows: Identification of selling avenues and Buyers Maintaining buyers faith and promises. Promotion or marketing the brand to the right audience at the right time. Coordinates different departments to achieve production within lead time.
4.1 Organizational hierarchy of the Department:
BMC HEAD (MANAGER)
MERCHANDIS ER
(PRODUCT DEVELOPME NT)
Sr. MERCHANDIS ER (PRODUCTIO N)
Sr. MERCHANDIS MERCHANDIS MERCHANDIS ER ER ER (PRODUCTIO (SOURCING) (SOURCING) N)
Jr. MERCHANDISER
(P D)
Jr. Jr. MERCHANDISER MERCHANDISER MERCHANDISER MERCHANDISER (TOPS) (TOPS) MERCHANDISER MERCHANDISER (P D) (P D) (BOTTOMS) (BOTTOMS)
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4.2 Product Development Department

Product development department comes under marketing. The company has inhouse design studio to anticipate and react to market trends and buyers orders. The product development department takes care for the steps of conversion of design from paper to garment with actual fabric.
Design on paper Garment design
Garment with actual fabric
Proto
Wash trials
Printing & development Adoptio n
Critical fit
Franchise
Production
Diagram showing the sampling stages from design to bulk production of the garment
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4.2.1 A brief description of different stages: Proto/ Early Book sample: It is the first sample from paper to fabric. In this the main points which are looked into are Pattern, fit, drape, fall of the garment. Substitute trims can be used. Then it is sent to buyer for approval. Fit comments are sent by buyer. Measurements should be within the tolerances. Wash trials: It is done after the fit is finalized for proto. It is the same style which can be done on different fabric. Finalize type of wash for fabric. Sleeve modes, leg panels, shirt mocks etc are made to test for wash trials. Developments: Initially it is done in the form of sketches on the piece of the sample. It is done in order to check the capacity of vendor. It is submitted to buyer for getting the feedback on the sample. Adoption sample: It is very important stage of production of styles in different fabric of different colour. It should contain actual aesthetic appeal. It has actual trims and approved wash standards. It is representative of Ambattur to the buyer. Final order placement by the buyer is done only after the acceptance of adoption sample. Critical fit: After the proto fit buyer would give comments, which would be incorporated in adoption stage. In adoption stage presentation is covered, in critical fit all specifications should be within tolerance to assess the fit of the garment. It is sent to the buyer for confirmed order; all specifications are followed in this. Franchise: Marketing team of buyer sends all styles of the sample to the different retail units to predict the market response. Here, the aesthetics of the garments is important to them than measurement.
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Buyer Tracker
CIED DD S A M
GSS BOM Pattern
Research & Development
Pattern request
Marker request
Sample request
Research & Development Comments
Costing
Wash request (If applicable)
Sample Basic procedure in Product development Tracker: It is the excel chart from the buyer which mentions styles allocated to different vendors. It is a comprehensive chart which is circulated among all SVD offices (Supplier Vendor Development office), indicating entire status of adoption sample for a particular season. It has all the details of the styles to be made with like fabric, colour and the wash. Garment specification sheet: It is made by the designers and sent to SVDs. Designers provide details such as sewing, construction details, which are required to make the garment diagrammatic introduction. It includes buyer block / pattern to be followed for shapes and the measurement/ specifications of all the parts of a finished garment. As soon as GSS is received, it is checked if any extra information is needed
or not. For any extra information the CSP (customer supplied product) will be circulated to CIED (central industrial engineering department) and R&D (research n development). BOM (Bill of materials): It contains the details of shell fabric, labels, buttons, interlinings, threads, prints, embroidery, wash specifications, packaging details etc. Trims ordering should have following details: Supplier name Buyer ref no. Trim description label, button, colour, size, quantity
Buyer Bloch: It is the soft copy of the pattern which is necessary for pattern making on paper. Pattern request: After GSS, BOM and Buyer Bloch, pattern request is issued for the preparation of computerized or manual pattern. Communication with this department is only through marker request form. These are the following detail in the pattern request form: Version of pattern Size Fabric type Enclosed GSS, BOM, Sample and Pinned sample
R & D comments: When the pattern is ready, the pattern department will send merchandising department comments. They will also give costing comment which can be done on style without affecting design and style. These comments to be enclosed with sample request. Sample request: As soon as fabric and trims are required sample request is issued, which contains following details: Style no
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Pattern version to be used Main fabric details with swatch Labels detail Button detail Other detail like zip, tape, lace Colour, size wise quantity of samples required Wash details Special instructions Enclose the copy of GSS, BOM and R&D comments.
Once sample request is given the following sequence is followed: Store has to handover the fabric and trims required for a sample request Pattern cutting: Here the cutting of fabric as per the pattern takes place Embroidery and printing(if applicable) Lining issual Buttons, Hooks, Contrast thread required issued Washing(if applicable) Finishing: After washing samples will be checked for quality, ironed and packed After samples reaches merchandiser (Product development team) it is needed to cross check the samples with GSS and BOM and fill the details of the sample on its label and tag. Now sample is ready to be dispatched to the buyer. Wash request: After sample is stitched it has to be sent for washing. It is sent with an enclosed wash request form to instruct the washing department with the wash required on sample. Costing: Before sample is dispatched it is needed to give costing for the same. The costing of the sample is done in each stage of the sample like proto adoption etc.
The following points are considered while costing: Fabric consumption and price Trims consumption and price Wash price Printing and embroidery price SAM given by CIED
Marker request: After receiving the details about the fabric for a particular style merchandising department has to determine the consumption of a fabric which is given by CAD/CAM (Marker department). The Marker request should contain the following details: Style no. Pattern to be used for marker Cuttable width of the fabric Repeat size of the fabric with swatch Placement of fabric Matching standard for stripe and plaid(checked) fabric Add information such as NAP up down fabric, one way or two way fabric
Based on above details, marker department will give the consumption (wastage is added with this and called yield yardage) of the fabric for that particular style. Matching standard: For stripes and plaid fabrics, Banana republic has some
matching strategy at various parts of a garment to give nice appearance while wearing. Those standards have big impact on yield yardage. It is always better to give a swatch to avoid confusion. To finalize the costing of sample following factors are taken in consideration:
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Fabric factor- Fabric consumption * Fabric price + Wastage (Varies from 5%10%) Contrast fabric factor- Contrast fabric consumption * Fabric price + Wastage Trims factor-Trims consumption * Price + Wastage Printing and embroidery prices Washing Cutting and manufacturing charges(CM)
Flow Chart for Production
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Bulk GSS, BOM & ACT
CPS
Fabric booking Trims ordering
Proto AD sample Rev M No Approval Yes No Approval Yes GPT sample Yellow tag
Green tag
Wash sample
Size Set sample
PCD Trim card approval, Thread approval, shade band approval Interlining report, FTP, GCR
PP meeting
Shipment sample
Final Inspection
Shipment
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Top sample
PRODUCTION After adoption is over, buyer will start placing order through ACT (All channel trackers). It is an excel format which has the details about confirmed styles, orders quantity and delivery etc. after that final GSS and BOM is sent by the buyer. Then the costing is done again and it is very tight to BOM. The costing is done in CPS format which should be very tight & competitive. The Product Development department has to hand over the samples to the concerned production merchants to carry over. Confirmed Program Sheet: After receiving the bulk GSS and BOM, the costing for bulk is done and same is sent in a format called CPS to the buyer. This includes all the details about product like fabric details with price, delivery details and mode and Time & Action (T&A) plan of that style. Quantity Indication: Once orders are confirmed, indication of the new order to management, import & export department to plan for production & spacing is given. For that we have to give details like style no, colour ways, SAM, order quantity per colour way, delivery date, and mode of delivery. Time & Action Plan: This is the plan through which merchandisers commit the exit dates of various samples such as (Proto, Revised M, yellow tag, green tag, advertisement sample & shipment sample) to buyer to meet the delivery required by them. Buyer will give the delivery as IN-DC date. So, we have to work backward & give the dates for sample exit. From the given details we can have the idea to give dates & will change time to time for different cases:-
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Ex-country: - 35 days back from In-DC. Ex-factory:-6 days for sea-shipment and 2 days for air shipment. PCD (package date):- 35 days from Ex-factory for a regular cut n sew program and 45 days for an O/D (over dye) program. Yellow tag exit date: - 12vdays before PCD. Revised M exit date:-20 days before yellow tag ED(exit date) Proto Exit date:-20 days before revised M ED. PP meeting: - 10 days after PCD. TOP exit date:- 2 weeks before shipment
Order Registration: For order registration Software called Business Management Centre (in house development) is used. All the details about all the orders from sampling to the shipment and all the data/ status required can be immediately seen from it. Fabric Booking: It includes arranging material required for the production. The fabric required for the particular order is ordered based on yield yardage received from CAD/CAM. Since Ambattur Clothing Ltd. (banana republic dept) is dealing with nominated supplier, SVD will give the indication (in form of fabric cutter/ fabric order confirmation) FOC about the fabric quantity to the mills which should be cross checked and confirmed to the mill by the department and then have to follow up, cross check some of the internal procedures like Material Required Chart (MRC), Raw Material Order (RMO), Performa Invoice (PI) from the mills and purchase order (PO). While ordering the fabric for bulk, the quantity and delivery of tailoring / sample yardages (for making the samples) are also specified. Trims Ordering: Trims like interlining, labels, tags, buttons, price tags and packing materials to the concerned purchase department through MRCs (Material requirement charts). The MRCs are raised by PPC (production & planning coordination) and merchandisers have to overview the internal procedures like PI (purchase invoices) from suppliers and POs (purchase orders).
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BOM & GSS Classification: As soon as the department receives the BOM and GSS, it has to be studied carefully and asked about the classification within 48 hrs. Shrinkage Sample: When washed fabric shrinks, it needs to be measured and examined properly to maintain the specification that buyer wants for the wash programs. Normally the shrinkage is checked in both warp and weft direction of the fabric which will be added in the pattern so that it meets/hits the specifications required by the buyer. It is very important to study the shrinkage on different roles of the fabric as it will differ from roll to roll or takka to takka. Normally one shrinkage study sample is made before doing any sample valid for specification/fit to avoid the last time rejection due to measurement problems and this is totally for internal purpose.
Proto Sample: After getting the classification for GSS & BOM merchandisers arrange the samples to be sent to the buyer. First stage sample of production in base size which is only meant for fit, specification and fabric. In this sample Trims are not actual. Buyer will review the sample and give their approval or comments on fit. Revised M Sample: If buyer is giving his comments to a proto, another sample in the same base size incorporating all the comments is made and sent for approval which is known as Revised M sample. Again buyer will review the sample and give their approval which will be called as Revised M. Again buyer will review the sample and give their approval or comments. Wash Sample: In tailoring yardage, sample in base size (normally in 4 pieces) is made with actual wash required for wash approval. The same will be sent to SVD, Delhi and then approved and then forwarded to the buyer. The approved wash should be maintained till the end of the order. Garment Package Test (GPT) Sample: This is exclusively done for Banana republic as the buyer has set some standards for their products in all the aspects.
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Banana republic has nominated some laboratories like ITS Mumbai and BY/MTL Bangalore. So before starting production the garments to be tested and passed for its qualities like fabric, trims and stitching quality from those laboratories. Here they will test the sample for fabric weight, fabric content, flammability of fabric, tear strength, tensile strength, pilling resistance, rain test, belt loop test, pocket attaching strength, button attachment strength, snapping/unsnapping strength and various colour fastness tests. To ensure the quality of the product the department has to make and send the sample as per the labs requirement (4 pieces in dark colour way + 3 pieces in other colours -all in basic sizes). Yellow Tag or Sealer Sample: Once proto/ Revised M is approved by buyer, the department has to make a sample same as the Revised M with actual fabric and trims to get it sealed by SVD Chennai. That is meant for all actual trims, specifications and washes and to be followed by factory for production.
Green Tag Sample: There are times when all the trims required to make the yellow tag sample are not received. In that case the department makes the yellow tag with substitute trims and get SVD sample in any colour with actual trims and wash. This is basically done to reduce the production delay. Advertising Sample: In the meanwhile the department has to send the advertisement samples (12 pieces) as instructed by the buyer for their catalogue/Marketing team. It is for presentation purpose so it contains actual trims and fabric. Size Set: All samples made till this stage After PCD (Production commencement date- Date on which factory starts working on an order) are made in the base size only. Therefore, before starting the production factory under goes pilot run that is doing a trial production and making garments in all sizes. And one piece from each size will be sent to SVD office to set the approval. The department should get the approval for size set by pre-production meeting.
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Pre Production Meeting: After pilot run and before starting the production the PP meeting is been conducted at SVD offices to discuss the critical points of the particular order. Top of Production (TOP) Sample: As soon as the production starts TOP samples in base size (4 pieces) are sent to SVD offices and then to buyer to show them the production product quality. If no comment is received within 48hrs then the production will continue. Shipment Sample: Samples from bulk are sent to SVD covering all sizes to represent the shipment. It will contain the actual trims and packaging material and exact wash. Package File: Normally factory will be located away from headquarters so in turn to avoid wastage of time in asking the classifications from merchants and to avoid making mistakes. It will have to give all the details regarding the particular order for which there is a checklist which were generated from the past experience. All the details should be put in the package file.
PRODUCTION PACKAGE FILE CHECKLISTS:
1. Approved Yellow Tag(Sealer)/Pre production sample 2. Full size set pattern and version written on index ( If the style carries embroidery or print the layout has to be passed on to the size set patterns while sending to the factory with grading). 3. Index 4. R & D package comment 5. Final updated buyer BOM with CSP date 6. Update internal BOM(ACL) 7. Final GSS with CSP date
8. All fit comments and buyer approvals highlights for constructions 9. Sealer comments and R&D reply for sealer comment 10. Trim cards approved by buyer merchant BMC containing: a. Thread trim card with all thread qualities, colours, shade approvals and placement b. Label trim card with all labels required for all constructions c. Layout for reference d. Buttons, snaps, tapes, elastic, zippers etc e. Price tickets, match books, stickers, hang tag etc. f. If there are many trims missing from the above mentioned details of the trims are given (i) Fabric swatch card (Approved by buyer merchant) g. Fabric swatches (shell, pocketing, lining, binding, contrast etc). In all colours with selvedge and right side and nap direction marked on it (where fabric is plaid or striped then centre front line to be marked). h. Approved shade bands for fabrics, if not available attach the option sent for approval. i. Interlining swatches (i) (i) Reports 12. Fabric package test report for all fabric qualifies (for small quantity where it is not required, attach the waiver) 13. GPT report 14. Interlining test report 15. General conformance report for styles having snaps, hook with mocks 16. Thread advisory report 17. Fabric shrinkage report APPROVALS Wash approval/band Digitals for folding instructions of a garment approved from buyer
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Work order
11. POs (work order) with CSP date
Pressing standard Labels and packing trim placement approval with digitals Print/Embroidery/Swatch with approval for placement, color, artwork appearance and technique Matching standard and mini marker for stripes and plaid fabrics Zipper grading Any other style specific issues
Internal BOM: It is a system generated BOM in BMC which has all the details about the particular order like fabric detail, trim detail, order style, PO and the status of the raw material etc. Shortly it has the complete up to date status of that particular order. This is circulated to the factory, stores (SP-76) by PPC at time of production for the follow up. Trim Card: This is swatch card which has the swatch or samples of all fabric and trims such as labels, buttons, zipper, thread, interlining; tape etc. a set of swatch card has to be sent to the SVD offices before starting the production and get their approval. Same will be sent to factories along with the package file for their reference and to avoid confusion. Thread Advisory Report: Some fabrics are sent to the thread supplier and the quality of the thread which is to be used for that fabric is taken. Based on that PDD have to match the thread for fabric and get approval from buyer. The approved thread panel should be kept in the package file. Shade Band: Since the yarns for bulk will be dyed more than once, the scope for different shades of colour is more. As soon as the company receives the fabric, fabric stores will segregate the shade, inform the quantity per shade, and then send the band (collection of different shade swatches) to buyer and get the approval. Interlining Report: To check the operating temperature and pressure of the interlining to a particular fabric and to choose the correct interlining supplier and get
their suggestions/advice for the interlining which should be included in the package file. List of forms used at different stages: Sample request form Wash request form Pattern request form Marker request form
Short Quantity: After package file is handed over to the factory, factory will start pilot run, size set samples, TOP samples and shipment samples. At the time of production or end of the production, factory will inform us the short quality to the actual required quality, the same to be informed and get approved from buyer beforehand. Final Inspection: Once the goods are ready, QA from SVD will come and inspect the goods. Once it is approved, the goods can be moved from the factory premises to the buyer nominated forwarder and then the goods will be shipped to the buyer. Shipment Advice: Once the goods are shipped, the details about the shipment like invoice, delivery challan, Bill of shipping or Air fare & vessel / flight details etc to the buyer is taken care by Export department. They are also taking care of payment related activities.
5. PRE PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT

The pre production department is the assemblage of four different departments which work in coordination. A brief description of the different component is given below:
5.1 Pattern Department

It is headed by Mr. Chandrasekhar, Mr. Gopal Kumar and Mr. Ganesh Kumar who handles different buyers such as GAP, Diesel, Eddie Bauer, Levis, Banana Republic and J Jill. 5.1.1 Organizational hierarchy of the Pattern making & CAD Department:
Technical head
Senior pattern maker
Junior pattern maker
Assistant pattern maker
The basic procedure followed in the department for a new order can be summarized as follows: New patterns are made Buyer amendments are incorporated Shrinkages are added Grading is done These patterns are used in sampling and sent to the buyer for approval, and also sent to factories for production Pattern tracking system prevails with version numbers for every amendment.
5.1.2 Functions
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The senior pattern makers work on styles like jackets, outerwear, shirts, trousers, dresses etc. The junior pattern makers help out in adding shrinkage to existing patterns, grading and amendments The pattern assistants trim the tracing received from the buyer and make templates Consumption of lace, webbing tapes draw-cord etc are also given by this department All factory amendments are also done by the pattern department
5.2 CAD Department

This department is affiliated to the pattern department. The entire computer aided patterns, amendments, shrinkage and markers are done in this department. 5.2.1 Functions The senior CAD technicians work on the new patterns, amendments, shrinkage and grading. The junior CAD technicians work on digitizing the patterns, tracings, duplications etc. 5.2.2 Pattern making and Grading details: Time taken to make a new pattern : 4 hours(Manual), 6 hours (computerized) Time taken in grading: 8 hours (Manual), 6 hours (computerized) Total time taken by marker department to give final pattern : 2days Software used by CAD department : GGT (Gerber Garment Technology) Type of marker planning: Mixed marker
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Working flowchart of the Pattern making & CAD Department
Merchant gives pattern request form
Pattern version-A is made and given to the merchandisers
Merchant gives changes as per buyer
Pattern version-B is made (if required)
Cross checking
Costing (to book the order) and sampling patterns
Adding shrinkage factor
Checking
R e j e c t i o n
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Quality Audit .
5.3 Sampling Department

This department is headed by Mrs. Prasanna kumari. T. This department is equipped with state of art machineries. This department is self sufficient with a stores, cutting section, button, and button hole section, finishing, home laundry and embroidery. This department is segregated buyer wise and each unit is self sufficient with a sampling supervisor and a quality person who understands the quality standards for their particular buyers. 5.3.1 Components of the Sampling department: Stores- The stores in sampling keeps account of all the sampling fabric and trims issued to them. They issue the same to cutting as per the sampling requests. Cutting section- This department is equipped with personnel who cut fabrics, pocket interlinings. Sewing section Button and button hole section Finishing/pressing/checking section
5.4 Marker Department

This department works on markers done at costing, amendment and final stages to derive on the fabric consumption of a garment. All factory lay markers and centrally issued from marker and CAD department, markers are taken at costing and fit stage 5.4.1 Function The senior marker will maintain the centralized record from sampling, pattern and markers
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They will file all Patterns by buyer wise and the pattern request form also Marker maker they mainly concentrated on costing, they have responsibility to check out the consumption level.
6. RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT DEPARTMENT
The research and development department has different roles in case of different buyers. However the basic functions of research & development department can be summarized as
6.1 Function
Review the Tech pack for producing a fusibile trims details. Reviewing a fit for the samples. Giving an alternative option for some difficult operation. Giving a fit comment properly to the production people. Updating the tech pack regularly. Giving guidance for factory production.
6.2 Comments from Buyer

Fit comment it special for fit of the garment. Construction comment. Specification comment. Trims details.
After getting the GSS and BOM from buyer this will send to three department Research and development department and CIED department and patter making department.
In research and development they will make costing for each and every process. They will check the capacity of machines and ability of the workers of factory for a particular style. Whether the design and trims of the garment is feasible or not .if the R&D department
style is feasible how can will do it in a effective manner . From sampling development to the end of the production have a responsible in each and every step. While production if the factory people have any doubt in the operation R&D department will come and clear the doubt regarding the production and productivity If there any technical problem R&D department will analysis the problem and find a proper solution for that problem. While sending the sample to the buyer we have to attach the comment from R&D department.
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7. MIS DEPARTMENT
The company uses centralised information system which is developed by the core IT team of the company. The company has two tier integrated information system to track the over all production with the management, planning, Sourcing and inventory facilities. All the production and the support facilities are interconnected by optical fibre on LAN network. The information system can be divided in two parts i.e. 1. BMC (Business Management Centre ) and 2. Production Management System
7.1 Business Management Centre

It is the data entry software package used by the Merchandizing and marketing Department. Each employee of the department has a separate user Id by which they can access the system. The range of access is pre- defined so that no one can interfere outside their Domain. The Package function details are pictorially shown below in the screen shots of the package interface:
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Screen shorts showing different menu options of BMC In this merchandiser can click on any of the menu option in the interface according to the need. E.g. if he clicks on the Order Registration again following interface will Come with all the order registration details along with the list of people who are responsible for the job and can do data entry. For all other users it is read only facility.
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7.2. Production Management System: It is also a data entry software

package used to record information at production facilities. This Package function details are pictorially shown below in the screen shots of the package interface:
Screen shorts showing Login Screen

Screen shorts showing different menu options of PMS
8.
CENTRAL INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT

Industrial Engineering department acts as the bridge between the corporate office and the production floor. It helps marketing people in understanding the complexity of the product for accurate negotiation of manufacturing cost with buyer against the production cost involved for the product based upon the factory efficiency.
8.1 Objectives of Central Industrial Engineering Department

Establish standard method for the operation. Establish standard work content for a garment. Reduce the work content there by reducing the manufacturing cost. Increase utilization of available resource like man, machine and work space. Making production system more effective.
8.2 Function of Central Industrial Engineering Department

Analyzing the work content of a garment at pre-proto stage for CMS (Cutting and Manufacturing Charges) with option to negotiate for CMS After order confirmation the evaluation garment is reanalyzed for better & economical methods to reduces the negotiated CMS in order to stay in safe margin At production stage the factorys achievements are being closely monitored and recorded, there by creating the awareness of factory status and requirement to improve its standard and in benchmarking its achievements.
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Role of Central Industrial Engineering Department
Buyer
Merchandizing
Planning
R&D
CIED
Factory Sampling
HRD MIS
Accounts/ Finance
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9. EXPORT DEPARTMENT
Export department receives delivery schedule from marketing department and confirm the product category, quantity, delivery date and destination of orders with the concerned merchandiser. The following documents are been prepared.
9.1 Pre Shipment Documentation

9.1.1 AEPC (Apparel Export Promotion Council) Documentation (a) Preparation of following documents and submitting the same to AEPC Commercial invoice Shipping bill Visa format AEPC annexure
(b) Ensure that the above documents submitted not later than two days before shipment (c) Follow up with AEPC and receive following documents Endorsed shipping bill Visa with necessary entries
(d) Ensure that the above documents submitted not later than two days before shipment 9.1.2 Custom documentation (a) Selection of C & F (Carriage & Freight) agent (b) Coordinate with C & F agent and decide on shipping line (c) Preparation of following documents and the same shall be handed over to the C & F agent days before the planned shipment: Customers invoice GRI Packing slip Shopping bill
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Order copy
(d) Follow up with the C & F agent and ensures that the above documents are submitted to the customs days before the shipment. (e) Coordinate with C & F agent and receive the following document from him Bill of lading/ airway bill Freight cargo receipt GRI duplicate
9.2 Buying House Documentation

Preparation of following documents and sends the same to buying house not later than days before shipment (a) Invoice (b) Packing list (c) Visa copy (d) Bill of lading/ airway bill (e) Single country declaration (d) QC report Follow up with buying house and receive inspection certificate not later than days before inspection.
9.3 Buyer Documentation

Preparation of following documents and forward to buyer (a) Commercial invoice (b) Packing list (colour wise and size wise quantity) (c) Inspection certificate (d) Bill of lading/ airway bill
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(e) Any other declaration required by buyer (e.g. Certificate of origin, single country declaration) (d) Ensuring the above document reach buyer in time and receiving feed back (e) Providing any other information required by the buyer.
9.4 Letter Of Credit (LC)

After issuing PO buyer will approach to their bank to open LC and accordingly buyer bank will issue LC and same will be send to manufacture bank. Then the manufacturers bank will hand it over to the manufacturer. Then the manufacturer will go through the LC and if all the terms and conditions are correct manufacturer will ask their bank to send message to the buyers bank as LC is accepted.
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10. MATERIAL MAINTENANCE CENTRE

ACL has a centralized fabric and trims store known as Material Maintenance centre (MMC), situated at SP-76, Industrial Estate, Ambattur. It is one of the most specious facilities in the company. Its function starts from receiving the fabric and trims, their inspection, checking the shade variation and shrinkage percentage roll length verification till the fabric and trim issue to the respective production unit. Department receives the purchase order of the fabric and trims, purchased by the purchase department. Goods entered at the gate are checked physically as per the Purchase Order. It has two separate departments for receiving the fabrics and trims respectively. The basic work flow in the MMC can be described as follows:
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Fabric / Trims Receiving
Fabric / Trims checking
Fabric / Trims test report
Fabric / Trims issue
10.1 Fabric store:

After verification with concerned merchant, Pre GIN (Goods Inward Notes) is raised against the supply invoice. Material is received in forms of bales. Each bale carries 100-200 fabric rolls. Now bales are opened and all the data is entered in the computer and based upon Pre Gin a particular bar code no is assigned to each roll which is called GIN. Rolls are stored width wise and colour wise in racks. Total rolls are checked any if there is any shortage, information is sent to Purchase department. The MMC has in-house fabric testing laboratory, which is equipped with high precision and state of art machinery. Lab makes the FIR (First information report of the fabric received). With in three days of receiving of fabric, lab has to perform all the tests and has to submit the report to the head. After all the tests, report is made and sent to merchant whether to accept it or to reject it. After his remarks, swatches are made and sent to the reputed labs for same tests. After passing from them the fabric is distributed to the production factories. List of the tests performed by the MMC lab are as follows: TEST Count Determination Construction
EQUIPMENT Beasley meter Pick glass

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Washing fastness Perspiration fastness Crocking Pilling test Tearing strength Flammability pH Colour matching
Laundromat Perspirometer Crocking meter Pilling tester Tearing strength tester Flame Burner pH meter Visual Matching
10.1.1 Fabric quality checking: The universally accepted 4-point inspection system is used to check the fabrics. After receiving the fabric half a meter, full width fabric is cut. Fabric swatch is cut from this piece for shade identification and to find roll wise shrinkage. Roll no is marked on each swatch for identification. The fabric is scanned for all the defects. All the detail of defects with the Non Conformance Report is made and is issued to concerned merchandiser for the approval. A minimum 10% checking is done of each received lot. Checking process: the checking process constitute following steps which are as follows: Fabric is being checked as per standard fabric swatch approved by the merchandiser. Fabric rolls are checked both in the flat table as well as machine so that the faults, which could not get detected in the flat table, can be detected on the machine and vice-versa. Fabrics are being checked for selvedge to selvedge and centre to selvedge shade variation. Defective samples are sent to concerned merchandiser for approval/disapproval. Preparation of Non Conformance Report, which highlights all the defects and characteristics of the fabric, is issued to the concerned merchandiser. He decides whether to accept or to reject the fabric roll. Fabrics are inspected and all defects are marked with stickers for identification. Checked are classified as sounds, seconds or rejected.
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Shade identification: The unit has a separate section for fabric shade identification. Where fabrics are segregated into different shades. It is done by experts based on their experience.
Shrinkage checking: A square piece of fabric (45 X 45 cm.) is taken for shrinkage checking. Over locking is done on all four sides to avoid edge fraying. Four points are marked using a template to check both warp wise and weft wise shrinkage. After washing in desired conditions the specimen is taken back to checking section and distance between the two points is noted by a shrinkage scale.
Width checking- Width of the roll is checked with the help of specimen cut from the roll and record is maintained.
Note: Before sending bulk fabric, supplier has to send a pilot yardage of same fabric to us where the defects and quality of the fabric is analyzed. If this pilot yardage is meeting the buyers standard, only then bulk order is given to the supplier, otherwise report is sent to concern merchandiser to sort out the issue.
List of few fabric defects generally found: S.No. defects

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1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11.
weaving defect broken warp oil stains slubs warp line crease marks stopping marks knots holes broken weft weft line
10.2 Trims store:

After receiving trims the department raises the Goods Inward Note (GIN) against the Purchase order of each item. Makes the swatch card with all necessary information like - PO No, GIN no, buyer, supplier and style. It is sent to the concerned merchant for approval. After verification Quality checking department checks the quality of trims received as follows: Checks 2% of received quantity, if it is ok, trims are sent to issue department to issue it to production units. Otherwise checks 5%. In this 5%, if rejection is less than 2%, forward it to issue department. Again if checking fails it Checks 10%. In this if rejection is more than 2%, NCR (Non Conformance Report) is made and sent to concerned merchant. Note: A report at each stage is sent to the concerned merchant for approval/rejection. For rejected trims, debit note is made and sent to accounts department mentioning P.O no, quantity, rate, amount. Thread consumption: Department also finds out the thread consumption. After finding out thread consumption it is confirmed with the concerned factory.
Factory finds out the consumption at its side. Comparison of both is done and approval is given to the minimum.
11. WASHING UNIT

The Company has recognized the importance of having state of the art wet processing facility to backup its world class production facility. To achieve this goal, the company has brought experts from other countries to develop washes and to manage the laundry. This is also complemented with Capital investment in buying world class washing equipments. The company has centralized washing unit to fulfil its all washing and wet processing needs, located at D-16, Industrial Estate, Ambattur. In general the quality of the laundry is related to many factors such as: Quality of the equipment used: washer, dryer etc Quality of the chemical used: all imported from Europe The follow up and proper execution of the laundry procedure with well trained workers and staff, the quality of finished goods get enhanced.
11.1 Work flow in the washing unit for the bulk production
Goods Reception : All the goods after receiving are 100% checked for quality and entered to the laundry production control systems into the daily washing status sheet using this system we are able to know and control how many garments are received, washed, issued and in progress for wet process as well as dry process. Unwashed Quality Audit: Goods received into laundry for wash are checked before wash for any quality issue such as fabric defects, sewing quality, uncut sewing thread etc. 100% check need to be done for 1 st bulk including 32 pieces, and 10% for normal production. Only when the goods are perfect it will be cleared for wash. If any defects are found, it will be registered into the Pre-wash quality check reports sheets, and the defective garments are kept aside. The Pre-wash audit form is then signed by the quality assurance manager from the laundry and forwarded to manufacturing manager and QC manager along with the defective goods for their inspection. We wait for the comment from the sewing plant whether we can proceed with wash or return the goods for the repair work. After getting approval from the
manufacturing plant, the pre-wash quality check report form get signed by FM and QM and returned back to laundry than the goods are proceed for wash. First bulk wash: No garment is allowed for washing without the approved wash standards and the shade bands for the same style, after receiving all this, the wash recipe is taken from the technical laundry department. The production and quality control work sheet and recipe worksheet is created by the laundry systems in charge, attached to the goods and handed over to the washing supervisor for the wash. Only for the first bulk wash, the work sheet printed is green in colour for auditors identification. On the first bulk, it is 100% quality check up for shade, hand, feel etc. Bulk wash: Few garments representing the shade range from the first bulk will be forwarded to the merchandiser for approval before laundry proceeds into further wash. For any other issue not related to washing, they will inform the factory accordingly for future care. Merchandiser will sign the first bulk wash garment and will be accordingly to the laundry for containing the bulk wash. The final production and quality control worksheet, repair worksheet and chemical registration slip will be created into systems for the balance bulk production. Post wash quality: After drying, the goods are subjected to quality check at the laundry by QC team. The goods are checked for the shade, hand feel, defects etc. the % of the total garments check is starting from 20% for the basic wash ( rinse wash, soft wash) up 100% for stone wash, dyeing and denim. The goods, which are not satisfying the shade, hand feel, are sent back for re-wash, the number of the rewash garment is mentioned in the final QC report as correctable pieces, for the goods satisfying the approved standard and shade are packed and sent to manufacturing plant. After that the travelling work sheet will be finalized and saved into laundry quality systems computer. Rinses and softener wash 20% check Enzyme wash, enzyme stone, denim and dye 100% check
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In general for the major defect as shade, holes, streaks etc. They stop washing until the problem get resolved by looking again through the washing recipe and doing trails in sampling before proceeding for bulk. Quality Department: The data from travelling work sheets are saved into the systems that automatically generate the final QC report for daily production. The laundry QC supervisor will analyze the final quality report of each order and update the laundry on the quality issue and get it signed from QC manager and FM for further action if it needs to be taken. This final report allowed the production people to control better what they are producing and stop the problem in the earlier stage. By this method the % of reject due to washing are minimized. Chemical Stocks: By using the chemical requisition slip, the quantity of all chemicals has been saved through laundry systems, and automatically they will be able to check and control their chemicals stocks daily. List of washes given in the unit: S.No. WASH S.No. WASH
1 Enzyme wash 22 Soda wash 2 Enzyme wash-mild 23 Soap wash 3 Enzyme wash-heavy 24 Water wash 4 Bio wash 25 Crinkle wash 5 Band wash 26 Distress wash 6 Detergent wash 27 Colour fixing wash 7 Stone wash 28 Mud wash 8 Bio polish 29 Paper effect wash 9 Anti pilling bio wash 30 Caustic wash 10 Softner wash 31 Leather finishing wash 11 Denim wash 32 Rubber finishing wash 12 Denimax wash 33 Desize wash 13 Dip wash 34 Starch wash 14 Silicon wash 35 Ice wash 15 Ball wash 36 Feather finish wash 16 Silicon ball wash 37 Silky wash 17 Rubber ball wash 38 Carbonised enzyme wash 18 Optical brightness wash 39 Zinc vodka wash 19 Vintage wash 40 Acid wash INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI Page 60 20 Tea stain wash 41 Stone enzyme wash 21 Bleach wash
11.2 Laundry Machineries Details:

Machine Type Bulk Wash Tenello Ramson Ramson Machine Type sample Wash Ramson Ramson Ramson Ramson Tonello Machine Type Ramson Note: In general garments are dried between 55 to 60 degree centigrade and for the delicate fabric the temperature followed would be 50 degree centigrade. M/C Capacity 400 kg 200 kg 150 kg M/C Capacity 35 kg 20 kg 5 kg 3 kg 17 kg Dryer Capacity 100 kg Wash Capacity of Goods 120 kg 60 kg 60 kg Wash Capacity of Goods 15 kg 10 kg 3 kg 2 kg 10 kg Wash Capacity of Goods 60 kg No of M/C 4 2 4 No of M/C 4 3 2 1 1 No of Dryer 24
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12. PRODUCTION UNIT: ACL SP 10/8 12.1 Introduction:

The second stage of our internship includes the study of manufacturing processes in the Production unit. We had been allotted to carry out our study and project in the SP 10/8. The Unit is located on the third main road in the Ambattur industrial Estate at a distance of 2.5 Kilometres from the Head office. It was earlier known as Southern Garments taken over by ACL in April, 2000. The unit is a bottoms manufacturing Facility with the production capacity of average 2000 pieces per day.
12.2 Fact Sheet - Ambattur Clothing Limited - SP - 10/8
Total Area & Dept - Wise Area Of Facility

DEPARTMENT CUTTING PRODUCTION FINISHING COMPRESSOR & BOILER ROOM GENERATOR ROOM LADIES TOILET GENTS TOILET CANTEEN AREA ( SQ FT ) 7268.19 11698.66 5550.83 748.52 769.97 734.37 174.94 2152.95
TOTAL AREA ( INCLUDING UNUSED ) APPROX HEIGHT OF THE COMPOUND WALL ( in feet )
29098.43
7.5
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Dept - Wise , Sex Wise Employee Strenght Of Facility

DEPARMENT ADMINISTRATION CHECKING CUTTING IRONING KAJA BUTTON MAINTENANCE PACKING PRODUCTION SEWING STAIN - REMOVING STORES TRIMMING WORKERS MEN WOMEN 0 0 10 16 4 28 14 4 2 20 3 0 5 4 4 0 27 202 3 2 3 1 1 21 STAFF MEN 4 1 3 0 0 5 4 1 9 0 2 0 WOMEN 2 0 2 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0
TOTAL
76
298
29
6 409
TOTAL STRENGHT OF THE FACTORY
Amenities Provided In The Facility

TOTAL NO OF FIRE EXITS TOTAL NO OF FIRE EXTINGUISHERS INDUSTRIAL TYPE EMERGENCY LIGHTS FIRE ALARM POINTS FIRST AID BOXES ( FULLY LOADED ) TOILETS (MEN) TOILET (WOMEN) CANTEEN CAPACITY MEDICAL CENTRE DAY CARE CENTRE 11 53 13 13 6 6 20 150 CENTRALIZED AND PROVIDED AT SP-24 CENTRALIZED AND PROVIDED AT SP-24
Committees
No. OF MEMBERS GRIEVANCE COMMITTEE CANTEEN COMMITTEE SAFETY COMMITTEE 13 15 14 FREQUENCY OF MEETING BI-MONTHLY BI-MONTHLY BI-MONTHLY
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12.3 Organizational Chart- SP 10/8
Mr. Mohan K Babu General Manager
Mr. Radhakrishnan Factory Manager
Mr. Shankar Production Manager
Mr. Christopher Franklin Quality Manager
Mr. Wilson Store Incharge
Mr. Mohan Cutting Incharge
Sewing Line Incharge (3)
Mr. Ramakrshna Finishing Incharge
Mr. Miller Packaging Incharge
Mr. Vasudevan Defect Analyser
Supervisor ( 4 per line)
Mr. Babu Ironing Incharge
Mr. Sigamani Button and Button hole
Quality Controller / Checkers (5)
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13. LAYOUTS 13.1 Cutting Department Layout:
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13.2 Sewing Department Layout
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13.3 Finishing Department Layout
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13.4 Packaging Department Layout
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14. STORES
The unit has in-house store for the fabric and trims issued from the MMC which stores the goods for the production period. The store is divided into two sections: 1. Fabric store 2. Trims store
14.1 Fabric Store:

Process flow: Fabric received from MMC
Fabric storage
Fabric issue to cutting
14.1.1 A brief description of the process flow: Fabric receiving: Fabric required for the production is issued from the MMC in the roll form. The factory maintains Goods receiving note (GRN) for the every issue. The GRN contains following information:
Buyer no:
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Style no: Colour: Width: Date Factory Delivery challan no. Length(in metres) Grand Total Total no of Rolls
Fabric storage: The fabrics received are first shade wise segregated and placed on the storage racks. However, final segregation is done according to the shade as well as the shrinkage percentage. The fabric rolls contains specification stickers which contains following information: BARCODE PO No.( purchase order number) Code Bale/DC Po Width Weight Supplier code No. Fabric Description Count Takka No.
Lf No.(Ledger folio no.) Colour Qty/Mtr Actual width Less:0.5: Batch Construction Buyer code
The shade and shrinkage family name is manually written over each roll after receiving the shrinkage report from MMC. Fabric issue to the cutting Department: Now according to the time and action plan (in which cutting date is mentioned), the fabric is issued to the cutting department and log book is maintained in the cutting department which contains following information: Style No. : Buyer Name : Fabric Colour : Fabric : Garment Description: Order quantity : Fit of the Garment: Fusing to be used :
FABRIC SAMPLE
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Warp shrinkage (%):
Weft shrinkage (%):
14.2 Trims Store:

Process Flow: Trims received from MMC
Trims storage
Trims release for the sewing
14.2.1 A brief description of the process flow: Trims receiving: According to the style and order quantity trims and accessories are issued from the MMC and received to the production unit. Here also, Goods receiving note is maintained, which contain following details: D.C. receiving date D. C. No Style No Items Nos.
Trims storage: According to the type and quantity trims and accessories are kept in the designated racks placed in the store. The list of different types of trims and accessories are given below:
Labels:
Main label (contains brand name and trademark) Tab label (contains detail about company) Care content label (contains content of the fabric) Size label (size of the garment) Wash care label (wash care instructions) Vendor ID label (contains name of the vendor) Buttons
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Zippers Locker loop BTW tape
Trims release: A trim card is made for each and every order containing all the qualitative and quantitative trims specifications needed for that order. Exact samples for each item are also attached on the card for identification. It also includes the information about the buyer, style, ACL style, GMT (garment), Quantity. The accessories are matched with the samples and then issued to the sewing department.
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15. CUTTING DEPARTMENT

The department receives marker plan from the E2 unit which consist of following information: Marker length Marker width Buyer name Version Sizes Marker efficiency
According to the marker plan spreading is planned and a Lay Slip is maintained in the following format: Format no Version Lot no Book no Style no Name of buyer Counted by Name of cutter QC name & checked by H.O.D Item code Fabric width Lay length Colour No of layers Sizes Lay starting time Lay finishing time Shade
Lay starting and lay finishing time helps the supervisor in monitoring the hourly target for the spreading: Target 40 plies/hr (approx.) Spreader also maintains the spreading particulars in Lay Info slip as following: Date 18/5/07 1 Lay length Lay width 5.23 mts 51
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Cut no -
Sizes Colour Roll no Black 5404
XS, S, M, L Quantity 61 Shade Takka no A No of plies 11 Balance Lay sequence 3.70 1
Process flow in Cutting Department:
Roll segregation
Roll opening
Fabric inspection
Fabric relaxation
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Spreading
Lay relaxation
Cutting Ticketing and bundling of cut parts Fusing
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Cut part inspection
Approved bundle
Disapproved bundle
Cutting storage
Bit end storage
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Damage cutting and replacement
Cutting storage
15.1 A brief description of the process flow in Cutting Department: Roll segregation: The fabrics issued for the production are first numbered. Pre wash and after wash samples are taken from each roll and they are categorized in the three families that are A, B and C. The categorization is based on the number of factors like colour, shade, shrinkage. But the major factors considered here are shrinkage percentage (max. 2.5%*1.0%) and shade variation. Fabric opening and inspection: At this stage the fabric rolls are put on the clamp placed on the inspection table and the rolls are opened in the opposite direction so that the fabric can slide down easily and simultaneously the inspection is also carried
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out and the fabric is being kept in relaxed / loose form on fabric relaxation trolley for 2-5 hours. Spreading and relaxation: In this process, first a brown paper is spread over the table which is fixed on the table by the cellotape. After that the fabric is laid flat over the table so that the uniformity in the fabric can be obtained while cutting. For this purpose, generally wooden scales are used to remove the wrinkles and crimps. Lay weights (iron blocks) are also used for keeping the correct fabric alignment. The spreading table used are made up of wooden base with plywood surface mounted on the steel stand. The dimensions of the table are 11m*1.5m*1m (length*breadth*height).The ply cutting or the lay cutting for the spreading purpose is done by the rotary cutter. Generally 75-125 lays are put in one spread and average height of the lay is 3.75 inches. The lays are kept for the period of 5-12 hours for the proper relaxation. However, the relaxation time depends on the nature of the fabric, temperature and relative humidity at the work. In spreading, the lay length and fabric consumption calculation are done on the basis of CAD marker. Cutting: The CAD marker needed for the cutting comes from the E2 / E3 units, are actually size set samples markers. These markers are further manually modified by the cutting master as per the modification needed for the bulk production. Now, are placed over the spreaded lay and cutting is carried out with the help of straight knife. Band knifes are also used for cutting smaller and complicated parts while Drill markers are used for making holes for the marking purposes. Fusing: The fabric cut parts which require fusing before the stitching are sent to the fusing section. It has two fusing machines. The temperature of fusing machine is set according to The type of thermal shrinkage of the shell fabric The type of interlining used The type of fusible resin (polyethylene, polypropylene, polyester etc) The type of fusing whether it is double, reverse or sandwich fusing.
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The section also maintains the Daily Fusing and Bonding Strength Report in the following format:
Buyer style-BR-514519 Temp Sample F Noon A Noon Pressure Time Sec 11 11 Bonding strength GMS 800 800 Date-31/05/07 Length in inches Before 4 4 After 4 4 Width in inches After 3 3 Change -
C Kg/sq cm 125 1.5 125 1.5 Factory ACL-SP 10/8
Change Before 3 3 Interlining-P*313
F Noon Sample
A Noon Sample
The fusing equipment must provide control over three major factors as instructed by R&D Department: Time Temperature Pressure
Machine setting is also checked after every two hours and recorded in Fusing Report: Date 31/05/07 8:30 125C 10:30 125C 12:30 125C 3:00 125C 5:00 125C Signature
Fusing defects are also checked and record is maintained as Date 31/05/0 7 Setting FN AN No bubbling F N AN No colour change FN AN Bonding strength FN AN Any other FN AN Signature CE
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Ticketing and Bundling: After that the cut parts are allotted with ticket number and stickers are used for this purpose, which consist whole description about the part and now the bundling is done. The cut parts of similar types are put in one bundle. However, the number of cut pieces in a bundle varies with the production runs and the sizes. The stickering operators are issued with the list of numbers, which has to be stuck on the cut parts. Each operator has the following info to stick the tickets issued by the department. Example:
Lot no Destination Style No. Colour Lilly rose Size XS S M L
Version Cut no Lay length Takka no 4962(D)83, 3930(E)85 4962(D)309, 3930(E)311 4962(D)227, 3930(E)229 4962(D)83, 3930(E)85 Bundle no 7192450 7192454 7192458 7192462 Pcs 20 20 20 20
Date Time Page No. FPLY 83 309 227 83 TPLY 102 328 246 102
Operators adjust their ticketing gun according to the numbers issued to them and three different stickers are put on the every cut piece. The placement of label/sticker on the cut pieces is pre decided in the pre production meeting. Sticker Details:
324702 ZB500267 * 3/2/ USA/ SHADOW Style number Destination / Colour Lot No. * Cut No. / Size serial /
8208344 31/30 [71-73] 3 5 - Fly
[Ply No.] No. of pieces Parts name
Bundle No. Size / Inseam
ZBJO33742 (B)
Takka No. ( Shade)
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Cut part inspection: The cut parts are inspected as per the damages and the ticket number and if any discrepancies are found they are sent to bit end storage section other wise bundle is approved and sent to the sewing department by the trolleys. For confirming proper cut quality 100% panel checking is done as well as from each cut block top, middle and bottom panel are matched against original pattern as well as each other for the exact and even measurements. Bit end storage: Here end bit of the fabric which is in production run are kept and if any damage part in the bundle is found then according to the shade again parts are cut and damaged parts are replaced in the bundle. Thus, again the same ticket number is allotted to that particular cut piece and sent to the sewing departments.
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15.2 Machinery and Table details in the Cutting department:

15.2.1 Tables: Tables Spreading table Inspection table Cutting table Damage cutting Ticketing Bundling No. 5 2 2 1 1 1 No. of worker/table 2 4 3 5 3 7
15.2.2 Machinery: Machine Straight knife Band knife Drill marker Rotary cutter Fusing machine Rod Clamp Stickering machine No. 2 2 2 1 1 2 2 1 5 Operators/machine 1 1 1 1 3 3 2 2 1 Make/ Model Eastman machine Co. Blue Streak BS2 KM bk-700 Eastman machine Co. CD3 Ngai Shing NS-71 Hashima Kannegiesser Local BlitzTextile Mod.2234
15.2.3 Miscellaneous: Items Racks Trolleys Fans/Table Tube light/Table Exhaust fan Lay weights No. 5 10 5 10 10 10 Make Local Local Orient/Usha Elite Gec Alsthom Local
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15.3 Quality Checking In Cutting Room 15.3.1 Spreading operator procedures for Spreading auditor: S.NO. 1 WHAT Narrow goods WHY To ensure that all the plies extend beyond the marker line. To ensure correct quality of the lay as well as to ensure that plies extend to the table marking line at both sides/ends. To ensure that one edge of the lay is square to the table. To make sure that marker is not over torn, over lapped, creased, damaged or altered To ensure that all cut part are complete HOW Visual inspection by checking far edge of the lay with marker line By counting plies at both ends of the lay. WHO Quality controller WHEN At random during laying and after the completion of lay before cut. After spread is finished and before the cut.
count
Quality controller
Leaning edge Marker
Visual inspection Visual inspection and check against original patterns Marker should be placed parallel to selvedge of the lay i.e. visual inspection Visual inspection
Quality controller Quality controller/ supervisor
At random during the laying and after completion of lay before cut. After marker is put on lay and before cut.
Marker placement
Quality controller/ Cutter
After marker is put on lay and before cut
Tension
To ensure that spread is not slack or tight, very much important for knits and stretch fabrics.
Quality controller/ spreader
At random during laying
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15.3.2
Standard
operation
procedures
for
cutting
supervisor:
S.No. 1 WHAT Check actual temperature Check actual time Visual check WHY To check against RnD specification for conformity To check against RnD specification for conformity To ensure no discolouration, no adhesive, no bubbling coming out shell To ensure durability of bonding To check bond strength and variation in shrinkage As a ready reference for parts that are to be fused As a ready reference HOW Thermal stripe/ digital meter Stop Watch WHO Quality controller Quality controller Quality controller WHEN Once in 2 hours Morning and evening Once in 2 hours
Visual
Bond strength test
Spring balance/ manual
Quality controller
Durability wash Mocks of fusing parts (interlining placement) Fusing specification
Quality controller Visual display Cutting supervisor Cutting supervisor
Morning and Afternoon as per the buyers specification Once in a day
During entire run of the style During entire run of the style
By interlining test report or approved fusing specification
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15.3.3
Standard
operation
procedures
for
fusing
mechanic:
S.No. 1 WHAT Temperature WHY To set the fusing machine as per the RnD or approved specification To set the fusing machine as per the RnD or approved specification To set the fusing machine as per the RnD or approved specification Daily maintenance HOW Stripe/ digital meter Stop Watch WHO Mechanic / Quality controller Mechanic / Quality controller Mechanic / Quality controller mechanic WHEN Morning and after noon Morning and after noon Morning and after noon As stipulated by the manufactur er
Time
Pressure
Control knobs As per the manufacture rs manual guidelines
Machine cleaning
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16. SEWING DEPARTMENT

The sewing department consists of the actual work floor in the production unit. The cut parts are received from the cutting department and data is recorded in the following format:
Style: Country: S. no. 1. 2. Cut no 3 3 Marker 3 4 Colour Size Black M Black L Issued by
Date: Time: From bundle 7192827 7192837 Received by To bundle 7192836 7192846 F Ply 277 180 T Ply 476 379
Prepared by
Cutting supervisor
After receiving the cut parts they are again counted by the receiver to counter check. The setting and process flow of the sewing department changes with every order. Before the execution of the order, the operation breakdown of the garment is done and operation bulletin is made. The operation bulletin acts as the tool for the line balancing and helps in production target achievement. According to this breakdown the sewing line is set so that the through put time can be reduced for the smooth production flow. The production bulletin prepared for the sewing comes from the CIED department. All sewing operators are provided with a production slips (time sheet) in which bundle stickers are stuck as soon as bundle operation gets completed. The work slips are counted after every two hours to prepare the manual production report as well as the barcode are
scanned and hourly production status is fed into the production management system. It helps to check the efficiency of each operator at regular intervals. At the end of the day total production report is made. There are five checkpoints in each line to check the quality. If any problem occurs the production manager and executives gets into immediate action and rectification is done for producing any quality garment.
The sewing department is divided into four parts: 1. Line A 2. Line B 3. Line C and 4. Kaja Section
16.1 Line Section:

Lines A, B, and C are general sewing line which execute all the main sewing operations. The workflow of the section has been described below with the help of ANN TAYLOR ladies bottom order which was running during our tenure. The garment style has been divided into nine groups and further subdivided into detailed production procedures. The Operation breakdown for the style is as follows: 1.FLY Make Flybox Turn Flybox Press Flybox Serge Fly & Flybox Topstitch Flybox Tack Flybox O/L Threads 2.WAIST BAND Make Top Waistband Face Attach Top Waistband Middle Waistband Join Waistband Panels (3 Pc) Dummy Stitch Waistband Press Waistband Attach Inner Waistband To Outer Waistband Mark Waistband Make Waistband
Turn Waistband Face Attach Tunnel Patch to Waistband Make Lable Attach Lable To Back 3.SIDE POCKET Serge Pocket Facing Serge Front Pocket Bag
4.BACK FLAP Make Flap Turn Flap (Rectangular) Topstitch Flap Ready Cut Flap Attach Tab to Flap
5.FRONT Serge Front Rise Attach And Topstitch Fly Attach Zipper To Fly Attach Flybox To Zipper Topstitch Front With Flybox And Zipper Attach Facing Scoop Pocket to Front Turn And Press Front Pocket Topstitch Front Pocket Mouth Attach Pocket To fornt Stay Stitch Front Pocket At Side And Waist Sew J-Stitch Sew Front Rise
6.BACK Mark Back For Welt Pocket And Dart Sew Darts Press Back Dart Topstitch Dart All round Serge Pocket Facing Make Welt Pocket
Turn Welt Press Welt Tack Welt Topstitch Down Welt Topstitch Top Welt Serge Welt Pocket Bag Pattern Stitch On Welt Pocket Bag Attach Back Pocket Flap To Back Topstitch Back Pocket Flap
7.SUB ASSEMBLY Match Front With Back Sew Side Seam Topstitch Side Seam Sew Inseam Sew Back Rise Topstitch Back Rise Topstitch Back Rise Attach Label at Side
8.ASSEMBLY Mark Body For Loops & Waistband Match Waistband With Body Attach Waistband To Body Close Waistband Face Topstitch Waistband All around Hem Bottom
9.FINISHING Attach Button to Waistband Keyhole Waistband Attach Button To Back Keyhole Flap Bartack Crotch & Fly Bartack Front Pocket Bartack Welt Pocket Attach Snap To Waistband (Female)
Attach Snap Button (Male)
16.2 Kaja Section:

Process Flow: Kaja Marking
Kaja Making
Button Marking
Button attach
Button shank wrapping
Button and Kaja checking
Sticker removing
16.2.1 A brief description of the process flow: Kaja Marking and Making: position by the specialised machine. Button Marking and Attaching: Similarly with the help of button attaching machine buttons are attached at the marked positions. Button Shank wrapping: Now the button shank is wrapped by the button shank wrapping machine to provide strength and tight hold to the buttons on the fabric surface. Button and Kaja checking: There is a separate inspection table for the kaja section where proper button and kaja placement and alignment are checked. If any discrepancies found they are again sent back for correction. Sticker Removing: Now finally stickers are removed from the garments and they are further sent to the washing or the finishing department. This Section receives the sewn garments. Initially
templates and pins are used to mark the kaja position. Now kaja are made the marked
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16.3 Quality Checking In Sewing Room

Each production step is followed by a quality checking point. The quality parameters that are taken into consideration at each quality check points for bottoms are described as follows: Quality Checking Scope for Front: 1. SPI: 7 for top stitch and SPI: 10-12 for attaching. 2. Front pocket opening should be both ways (horizontal and vertical) 3. J- stitch width 1 3/8 and J- stitch should be per pattern shape with 1/4 DNLS 4. Front rise attaching should be on curve and avoid puckering. 5. Front pocket top stitch should be even and avoid puckering. 6. Front top stitch and front pocket opening should be 5/16 DNLS. 7. Front pocket shape should be as per the pattern and both ways identical, avoid high and low. 8. Down fly shape should be as per the pattern. 9. Front pocket opening should be 1/8 loose. 10. Front pocket bag seam piping should be even all around. Quality Checking Scope For Back: 1. SPI: 7 for top stitch. 2. Back pocket dart DNTS distance should be 5/16 3. Flap should be centred to welt with 5/16 DNTS.
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4. Back welt pocket should be balanced both sides. 5. Back pocket DNTS should be 5/16 even all around and as per the pattern shape. 6. Button hole should be centred to the flap. 7. Back welt pocket smiling not allowed 8. Back pocket bag seam piping should be even all around. 9. Avoid pocket high low both ways (horizontal and vertical). 10. Flap tab should be centred to the flap.
Quality checking scope for side attachment: 1. SPI: 7 for top stitch. 2. Side seam DNTS width should be 5/16 even in both the panels. 3. Side seam over lock quality should be neat and clean with SPI: 10 4. Edge stitch should be on the right side of the wearer. 5. Avoid loose and skip stitches at the double needle top stitch. 6. avoid puckering at inseam over lock and SPI should be 14 7. Back rise DNTS should be and avoid puckering and loose stitches. 8. Front rise should be single needle edge stitch. Quality Checking Scope For Waist Band Attachment: 1. SPI: 7 for top stitch. 2. Waist band joint and side seam should match. 3. Waist band attaching seam margin should be even. 4. Avoid puckering while waist band attaching. 5. Waist band high low is not allowed. 6. Waist band centre front should be straight. 7. Crotch joint should match. 8. Main label should centre to the waist band at centre back. 9. Back pocket and lip high low should be avoided. 10. Face closing should be straight and avoid run off stitches. Quality checking scope for end of the line: 1. SPI: 7 for top stitch.
2. Waist band height 1 even all over. 3. Waist band finishing should be proper , avoid puckering and roping. 4. Waist band high low not allowed. 5. Waist band roping inside not allowed. 6. Waist band top stitch should be even avoid joint stitches. 7. Waist band should be straight at centre front between hem height double fold while roping and puckering should be avoided. 8. Waist band lip should be even all around. 9. Eye let placement should be as per the sample
16.4 Machine and Equipment details in sewing department:

16.4.1 Machines: Machine SNLS (without UBT) SNLS (with UBT) 3- Thread overlock 4- Thread overlock 5- Thread overlock Welt pocket maker SNLS Edge cutter Chain stitch Double needle lock stitch Snap attaching Feed of arm Bartack Keyhole (kaza) Button attach Button hole Button shank wrapping No. 18 2 120 20 4 3 15 2 18 10 2 40 4 2 7 2 2 3 1 1 Make JUKI Brother JUKI Brother JUKI JUKI JUKI Beiser JUKI JUKI Brother JUKI Ngai Shing JUKI Brother Brother JUKI JUKI Brother Ascolite No. of operator/ machine 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
16.4.2 Miscellaneous: Items Checking tables No. 18 Make Local

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Hangers Fans Tube light Exhaust fan Chairs
9 90 312 7 270
Local Orient/Usha Elite Gec Alsthom Local
17. FINISHING DEPARTMENT

The machine setting and work flow of the finishing department also changes with the order and style. The process flow described below is according to the ANN TAYLOR ladies bottom order. Process Flow:
Washed Garment received
Draw cord
Trimming
Inside Checking
Stitching repair
Stain removal
Thread suckering
Bulk ironing
2nd Garment checking
Security label attaching
Tag attaching
Final stain removing
Belt tieing
Final ironing and folding
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Draw cord tacking
Measurement Checking
Security label attaching
Tag attaching
Final stain removing
Belt tieing
Final ironing & folding
17.1 A brief description of the process flow in Finishing Department: Washed Garment Receiving: The unit do not have the in-house washing department so the garments are sent to the central washing unit at D-16. Generally, it takes one day for the washing and washed garments are received after one day.
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Draw Cord: This step is for this style only as per the design requirement. Trimming: After this the garments are sent to the trimming table, where extra thread is trimmed from the garment and a trimming report is also maintained as follows: S. No 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 13. Total Grand total Name of Operator 9:15 10:15 22 22 22 10 11:15 ... . 5:00 22 20
22 242
10 235 477
20 240 2190
Inside Checking: After receiving the garments, inside checking is done to check out defects like broken stitches, skip stitches and uncut threads etc. After checking the garment each checker has to stick a sticker at each garment, inspected by her. Each sticker has a particular number assigned to that checker to track out which garment is being inspected by which checker. A set format is given to each checker to maintain the record of defects at various areas like A/H, cuffs etc. It also helps to find out the total garments inspected by the checker and percentage defectives found. Stitch Repairing: In case of any sewing defect the respective garments are sent back to sewing line to repair it immediately. However, finishing department has its own tailors to repair the minor faults. To rectify defects, checker puts the clip at the defective garments after tying the defective area with the help of thread. Each clip has a particular no assigned to each checker. After repairing the garments are sent back to the respective checker to recheck Stain Removing: As each garment suffers multiple handling right from receiving the fabric to the finishing, it leads to stain marks on the garments. So, the garments are sent to stain removal section to remove the stains from the garments. These stains are removed by stain removal guns in which white petrol is used to remove the stains. Sometime they also
use stain removing sprays. Here, also each operator sticks the particular sticker assigned to her to track out the garment handled by her. Thread suckering: Now the garments are exposed to the thread sucker machine where the left over cut threads are sucked from the garments. Bulk ironing: The department has fourteen pressing work stations, where the garments are passed for the pressing. 2nd checking: Now the garments are sent to 2nd checking to find out fabric defects, shade variation, shape distortion (bottom shape, cuff and placket shape etc.), minor stitching defects etc. After checking the garment each checker has to stick a sticker at each garment, inspected by her. Each sticker has a particular number assigned to that checker to track out which garment is being inspected by which checker. At the 1st checking stage, major concern is stitching defects and extra threads only. Draw cord tacking: This step is also style specific as per the design of this garment only. Measurement Checking: The garments are now sent to the measurement checking table where all critical measurements are taken and matched according to the specifications and tolerance. Security Label attaching: This is also a buyer specified attachment as in this style RFID security labels are attached. Tag attaching: Here price tags and wash care labels along with the extra buttons are attached with the garment. Final Stain removing: Again stain removing is done by the sprayer before final packing. Belt tieing: This is also specific to this style only as per the buyer specification. Final folding and packing: It is the final step in which garment is folded as per the packing instructions and packed in the poly bags.
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All garments are passed to needle detection machine to meet the safety compliance of the buyer before the packing. But it is done for a few buyers only.
17.2 Machine and Equipment details in finishing department:

17.2.1 Machines: Machine Needle detector Pressing work station Thread sucker No. 1 14 1 Operators/machine 2 1 1 Make/ Model
HASIMA/ HN740 G
Ramsons Veil Ramsons
17.2.2 Miscellaneous: Items Checking tables Storage bin Fans Tube light No. 55 3 48 143 Make Local Ramsons Orient/Usha Elite
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18. PACKAGING DEPARTMENT

Process Flow:
Receive finished garment
Shade checking
Placing shade sticker
Garment alignment check
Packet concealing
Barcode scanning
Size sorting
Packing in carton
Sent to store
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18.1.1 A brief description of the process flow in Packaging Department: The finished garments kept in the polyethylene bag are sent to the packaging Department, where firstly shade checking is done in order to the matching the shade written on the polyethylene bag with the actual garment pieces. Shade checking is done on a ordinary wooden table with tube light mounted on the top by the stand and the inspection area is enclosed from three side by thermocol sheets. After that packets are sent to another table, where an operator puts shade sticker on the approved packets and another worker conceal the packet after checking the proper alignment of the garment inside the packet. Now, the barcode scanning of the packed garment pieces is done and all data are fed into the computer. Scanned pieces are stacked and separated on the basis of sizes and shades on the other table, where garment polybags are kept in the cardboard cartons and cartons are concealed by the adhesive tape. Only 10 pieces of garments are kept in one carton. These cartons are again sent to the stores by the trolleys and one trolley has the capacity of 18 cartons. The carton dimensions and specifications are given by buyer. Generally two dimensions are used i.e. for bottoms 37*30*18 cm3 and for shirts 66 *39* 22.5 cm3.
18.2 Equipment Details in packaging Department:

Items Tables Barcode reader Weighing machine Fans Tube Exhaust fans Trolleys No. 3 1 1 6 12 6 5 Model/Make Local ARGOX F6AP/ ATCO Usha Philips Usha Local
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18.3 Polybag, Barcode, Carton Sticker Details

Descriptions printed on the Polybags: Example:
DEPT STYLE COLOUR SIZE P.O. SHADE GROUP #69 #208993 #7440 #6P #971875 B
Barcode details fed in the Computer per carton: Example:

CTN NO. 389 389 389 389 389 389 389 389 389 SHADE A A A A A A A A A COLOUR SEA- SIDES SEA- SIDES SEA- SIDES SEA- SIDES SEA- SIDES SEA- SIDES SEA- SIDES SEA- SIDES SEA- SIDES SIZE OOP OP 2P 4P 6P 8P 10P 12P 14P ACT PCS 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 SCAN PCS 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
Sticker details on the carton: Example:

P.O.(Purchase order number)# DEPT STYLE COLOUR SHADE LOT SIZE QTY PACK SKU DIM GROSS WEIGHT NET WEIGHT PACK RATIO 972130 59 - MISSY 203860 1295 A 10 pcs. 81230815 37*30*18 cms 4.450 Kgs. 3.700 Kgs. OOP/1 OP/2 2P/3 4P/2 6P/2 8P/2 10P/2 12P/1 14P/1 TTL/14
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19. QUALITY CONTROL DEPARTMENT

To ensure the right quality of the product is one of the important objectives of the company. Therefore, Quality control is applied at every stage of the garment i.e. spreading, cutting, sewing, washing, finishing and packaging.. There is 100% inline inspection and end line inspection for the garments. Hourly reports are made for the checking and follow up of the repairs. Statistical process control technologists are employed to improve on the quality standards. In ACL Statistical process control starts from laying and cutting. An Statistical process control checker fills up the spread quality report and control quality report, there reports indicates any defects or imperfections in tension of lay, pattern sizes, width variation etc. In sewing Four Statistical process control checkers carry out Statistical process control checking at 4 critical points, also the factory quality control team go on taking rounds of line. The merchandiser, buyer, quality checker and R&D people come for inspection too. AQL (Accepted Quality level) is set as per the buyer recommendations. The number of inline checkers and end line checkers are as follows:Inline checkers: 3 End line checkers: 2
19.1 List of the details to be checked in Cutting Department:

SL. NO Version Style No Fabric Cut No Lay Length No. Piles Table Marking Marker Placing Ends Marrow Goods
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Leaning Tension Counts Marker Total Defects Sign QC Cutting Super
19.2 List of the defects checked during the inline and end line checking, and the quality audits:
fabric defects colour shading broken stitches skip stitches uneven SPI loose stitches insecure button/snap high low raw edge needle holes unwanted pleats missing operation run off stitch incorrect labels stains/dirt marks stickers uncut thread out tolerance
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19.3 Audit Flow Chart in Ambattur Clothing Limited
Before Wash Audit
After Wash Audit
Before Packaging Audit
External Audit by R&D Department
19.3.1 Sample Selection Techniques at different stages of the Quality Audit: Type of Audit before finishing Before wash/ after finishing After wash NOTE: After external audit is done buyer representative is invited for the audit. The AQL depends on the buyer. E.g. the AQL for Levis is 2.5 whereas for J-JILL it is zero (0). All the quality inspection sheets are in the annexure.
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No of samples 7 7 7
Total no of the samples Total production one hour 500 500
Rejection level 2 minor/ 1 major defect 2 minor/ 1 major defect 2 minor/ 1 major defect
20. MAINTAINENCE DAPARTMENT

The department is run by two senior mechanics and three helpers who ensure the smooth running of the production. The responsibilities of maintenance department can be divided as follows: 1) Preventive maintenance 2) Break down maintenance 3) Spares inventory 4) Arrangement of machines, folders and attachments 5) General maintenance 6) Work shop
20.1 Preventive Maintenance Procedure Daily check schedule of mechanics (during working hours) includes:
20.1.1 Mechanical maintenance: on daily basis Needle point sharpness, bent Oil leakage SPI Seam quality Thread path Attachment positions / alignment
20.1.2 Electrical maintenance: One electrician takes care of all the sewing floor and checks all the live lines for insulation. Weekly inspection and cleaning of all the electrical lines of any foreign materials
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and rectifying loose connections Cleaning of panel boards on a fortnightly basis
20.2 Breakdown Maintenance

20.2.1 Mechanical maintenance: Each line is attended by a mechanic who will take care of breakdown maintenance in that line and his functions can be summarized as follows: Reports to chief mechanic who looks after all the lines. Maintains a breakdown log book where the machine down time is noted. Machines with major problems are sent to the workshop. Line mechanic also maintenance a log book for broken and blunt needles.
20.2.2 Electrical maintenance: An electrician is also deputed to take care of electrical maintenance on the sewing floors Any major problems are reported to head of breakdown maintenances.
20.3 Spares Inventory

It includes: Following buyer compliance Maintaining needle log book Broken needle is affixed completely ( including the broken part ) in the prescribed format If the broken part cannot be traced, the garment around that particular area will be passed through needle detector Blunt and bent needles are collected in a sealed box and audited by the concerned buyer the QC every so often. Needle detector is calibrated twice a day with the gauges and readings are
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documented.
20.4 Arrangement of Machines, Folders, and Attachments

The machines, attachments and folders requirement list for new style is given by the production manager at pre production meeting The requirement list is reconciled with the stores stock and items that are not available indented giving the full specification of the purchase department All the materials that are received from supplier are checked 100% for quality and specification by the store keeper. The material stock is updated in the spares registers with all the relevant details.
20.5 General Maintenance

It includes following: Cleaning the machines completely from stand to machine head Cleaning of oil ( taking the foreign materials from the oil reservoir) All machines are provided with eye guard and finger guard The band knife and cloth cutting machines operators are given metal gloves to avoid accidents All power points are provided with earthing to avoid accidents.
20.6 Workshop
Workshop involves the repair and fabrication of the damaged machine and machine parts. Folders and attachments are as per the requirements of sewing line. Some of the attachments fabricated here are also sent to other units of the company.
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21. PROJECT
AIM: Cutting and Sewing Department Process Analysis for increasing productivity in the SP 10/8 unit. DURATION: 7 days METHODOLOGY APPLIED: Analysis of test reports and working procedures to find out the deviation from the standard operating procedures. INSPECTION AREA GIVEN BY THE FACTORY MANAGER: In Cutting Department: Shrinkage and shade sorting Fabric relaxation Cut Quality Damage Cutting Production time
In Sewing Department: Pre production operation In line Problems
DATA COLLECTION AND ANALYSIS: In cutting Department: Shrinkage and shade sorting: The test report sent by the MMC is followed and proper roll segregation is done. Therefore there is not any problem.
Fabric relaxation: recommended fabric and lay relaxation time is given so problem regarding uneven lay length and stretching is not found. Lay checking is also carried out and the bowing is corrected by making notches as well as pulling the fabric in opposite direction.
Cut Quality: lay height is set according to the buyer specification as well as the nature of the fabric. For confirming proper cut quality 100% panel checking is done as well as from each cut block top, middle and bottom panel are matched against original pattern as well as each other for the exact and even measurements. So, there is no problem regarding the cut Quality.
Damage Cutting: End bit of the fabric which is in production run are kept in store and if any damage part in the bundle is found then according to the shade again parts are cut and damaged parts are replaced in the bundle. Thus, again the same ticket number is allotted to the cut pieces and sent to the sewing departments.
Production time: There is no time lag has been found in the cutting room. All orders are cut before or on the scheduled time.
Suggestions:
The marker efficiency is generally 70% so there is no measures have been taken to utilize waste fabric in constructive way. Those can be used for the operators training as well as for their stitch practices. Whenever new blade is fed in the straight knife frayed edges and wavy marks are seen on the lay sides. This should not be ignored. The capacity of the cutting room is under utilization, it can take approx. 5% more orders.
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In Sewing Department: 1. Pre production operation: Production manager, executive and supervisor make the operation breakdown according to the CIED recommendation as well as the convenience and comfort of operators. This is done 3 days before the production in the pre production meeting. Operators and tailors are assigned for the each and every operation in one day advance. List of the machineries and folders required for the production are given to the maintenance department three to seven days in advance. Capacity of the operator: at the time when any critical operation or bottleneck is found in the line, then by time study operators capacity for an hour is calculated by production manager/ executive. Production executive / supervisor also analyses the way of stitching and operators feedback may suggest some new innovative ideas for doing that operation. Therefore nothing objectionable found in the preproduction operations. 2. Inline Problems: Absenteeism: Through out the period of our internship we observed it as a one of the major problem in order to increase productivity. This leads to major line imbalancement and every day undesirable time and production is lost due to this. Therefore some time it is
difficult to overcome the start up losses. However, a full function line can produce up to 850 pieces per day but it is rarely achieved. It also causes non uniformity in the stitches as different people have different way of stitching. Due to absence of a skilled tailor, stitch quality also deteriorates as well as that place has to fill with two semi skilled operators.
Absenteeis Date 7-Jun-07 8-Jun-07 9-Jun-07 11-Jun-07 12-Jun-07 13-Jun-07 14-Jun-07 15-Jun-07 16-Jun-07 18-Jun-07 19-Jun-07 20-Jun-07 21-Jun-07 22-Jun-07 23-Jun-07 25-Jun-07 26-Jun-07 27-Jun-07 28-Jun-07 29-Jun-07 30-Jun-07 2-Jul-07 3-Jul-07 4-Jul-07 m% 12.94118 10.58824 7.058824 16.47059 12.94118 10.58824 11.76471 11.76471 11.76471 11.76471 11.76471 11.76471 11.76471 11.76471 11.76471 11.76471 11.76471 8.235294 8.235294 8.235294 8.235294 8.235294 8.235294 10.58824 Workers present 74 76 79 71 74 76 75 75 75 75 75 75 75 75 75 75 75 78 78 78 78 78 78 76
The absenteeism percentage in Line A is given below for the reference.
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Graphical Representation of Absenteeism percentage in Line A
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18 16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 0 7- 8- 9- 10- 11- 12- 13- 14- 15- 16- 17- 18- 19- 20- 21- 22- 23- 24- 25- 26- 27- 28- 29- 30- 1- 2- 3- 4Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun-Jun- Jul- Jul- Jul- Jul07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07 07
There is very less technical knowledge about the machine and stitches to the workers.
There is not proper IE support to the production managers and the executives in the unit.
Suggestions:
Absenteeism is major problem. Existing incentive scheme of Rs.600 for 100% attendance is not enough to handle this problem So, the incentive scheme should be in such a way that it should attract majority and should be achievable for them.
Recommended Incentive Scheme

Leave per Month No Leave 1 day 2 days 3 days More than 3 days
Incentive Rs. 600 + Medical Facility Rs. 400 + Medical Facility Rs. 250 + Medical Facility Medical facility No Medical Facility
There should be one hour training programme for the new operators after every 15 days.
There should be monthly general meeting between high authority and the operators so that there problems can be seen from the grass root level.
New operator should spend every day first five minutes on the practice stitches and these should be submitted as an assignment of the training programme.
There should be easy access to the IE tools and services for the production managers and supervisors, so that their time can be effectively and efficiently utilised.
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22. CONCLUSION
The industrial internship in the Ambattur Clothing Limited has exposed us to the different and vivid facets of the garment field. Apart from the theoretical and practical knowledge the internship has given us the opportunity to use our knowledge and skill in solving the problems on the production work floor. The practical experience imparted by the internship has helped us to visualize and analyse the ground level details in order to understand the complexity of any problem. At the one end industrial experience had conveyed the importance of professional and corporate approach towards the work and life mean while at the other it helped us to understand the importance of emotional quotient in increasing the productivity. It helped us to realize the importance and need of team work in order to achieve success.The two months stay at Chennai has also given us the opportunity to interact with the people of different culture, language and background. Altogether it was a wonderful experience and memory to be treasured life long.
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APPAREL INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP

AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED

DEPARTMENT OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY HYDERABAD

Shishir Gupta Uday Shankar Jha

INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI

INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI

INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI

1 1 2 2 3 3-4 5 5 6 7 7 8 9 9 10 11-23 24 23 24-25

INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI

25 25 25 25-26 27 27 27 27 28 28 28-29 30 30-31 31-32 33 33 33-34 35 35 35 35-36 36 36 37 38 38-39 39-41 41-42

INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI

43 43-45 46 47 47 47-48 49 50 50 51 52 52 54 54 54-55 56 56-57 58-60 61-64 65 65 65 65 66 66 67 68 69

INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI

70-72 73 73-74 75-76 77 77 77 78 78-81 82 82 82 83 83-84 84 85 86 86-87 87 88 88 89 89 89

INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI

20.1.2 20.2 20.2.1 20.2.2 20.3 20.4 20.5 20.6 21 22

INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI

1. COMPANY PROFILE 1.1 Introduction:

INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI

1.2 Company Fact File:

Location ACL, Chennai, India ACL, Bahrain Total

Capacity (2005-06) 8 Million pieces 3 Million Pieces. 11 Million Pieces.

Capacity (2006-07) 9 Million Pieces. 3 Million Pieces. 12 Million Pieces.

INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI

1.5 Product Range:

INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI

Cotton Shirts / Tops

Linen Shirts / Pants Woolen Jackets Jackets Moleskin/ Cotton

Products range categorization on the basis of volume of manufacturing:

ACL product range can also be categorized product wise as follows:

INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI

Mens wear Shirts Trousers Jackets Shorts

Womens wear Top Skirts Pants Dresses Jackets Shorts

2. ORGANIZATIONAL CHART 2.1 Core Management:

INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI

Mr. Vijay Mahtaney Managing Director

Ms.Ambika/ Mr.Bopanna Mr.Behram K Director - Production Director Merchandising/ VP - Merchandising

Mr.T Rajendran Head Human Resources Administration

Mr.Darius K Head R&D CAD/CAM/Sampling Quality Assurance

Mr.T Subramaniam Finance & Accounts MIS, Projects & IT

Mr.Vinayak T Head - MMC

Mr.V Paranthaman Head - Commercial

INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI

Mr. Behram K Director

Mr. Manohar K Babu Genreral Manager

Mr. .Ganapathy S General Manager

Mr. Gopinath General Manager

Mr. Krishnan, FM Mr. Sekar/Mr. Mani, PM SP 53 Mr .Dave, FM Mr. Shaji, PM B 12

Mr. Anand, FM Mr. Prince, PM ( B 9) Mr. Rajendran PM (B 10)

Mr. Pawan / Mr. Sudhakar, FM

Mr. Anandraj, FM Mr. Raja, PM 69 B

Mr. Narasimhan, FM Mr. Balakrishna, PM B 13, B 15

Mr. Srikanth, FM Mr. Gopalan, PM D 26

Mr.Radhakrishnan , FM Mr.Shankar, PM SP 10/8

INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI

3. HUMAN RESOURCE AND WELFARE DEPARTMENT

3.1 ACLs Mission

INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI

3.2 Welfare Measures Provided To Employees:

INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI

4. MARKETING AND MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT

4.1 Organizational hierarchy of the Department:

BMC HEAD (MANAGER)

Sr. MERCHANDIS ER (PRODUCTIO N)