Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Lene Krogsgaard Svinth Student number: 301709 Supervisor: Leila Trapp Business and Social Sciences May 6, 2013 Characters excluding blanks: 48.639
Abstract
The
increasing
competition
companies
are
facing
today
demands
them
to
differentiate
in
order
to
survive
on
the
market.
It
has
become
important
for
companies
to
choose
a
fitting
communication
strategy,
to
add
value
to
their
brand.
Therefore
it
is
interesting
to
examine
the
communication
strategy
of
Benetton.
The
thesis
evolves
around
the
following
problem
statement:
There
are
no
shocking
pictures,
only
shocking
reality
Oliviero
Toscani.
Why
have
Benetton
engaged
in
shockvertising?
What
factors
make
shockvertising
offensive
to
the
audience?
In
order
to
answer
the
problem
statement,
the
thesis
includes
an
adequate
presentation
of
the
Benetton
Group,
including
chapters
about
Oliviero
Toscani,
the
history
of
the
company
and
the
advertising
philosophy
of
Benetton.
As
the
theoretical
framework,
the
thesis
involves
thorough
description
of
the
theories
of
the
three
semioticians
Pierce,
Barthes
and
Saussure.
Furthermore,
the
theory
and
concept
of
shockvertising
is
described.
Hermeneutics
is
the
methodological
foundation
of
the
analysis.
The
analysis
is
divided
into
three
parts
each
concerning
a
category
of
selected
advertisements
of
Benetton.
The
first
category
is
called
The
cycle
of
difference
showing
images,
which
represent
racism
and
religion.
The
second
category
is
called
The
cycle
of
reality,
and
shows
controversial
images
from
the
real
world.
The
third
category
is
called
The
UNHATE
campaign
and
shows
four
images
from
the
much
discussed
campaign
from
2011,
made
by
Fabrica
and
representing
the
UNHATE
Foundation,
which
was
the
new
initiative
of
Benetton
that
year.
All
the
advertisements
included
in
the
analysis
have
met
criticism
for
being
controversial.
The
intentions
of
Benetton
have
always
been
to
expressing
their
core
values
in
their
advertising,
instead
of
showing
their
clothing.
The
conclusion
sums
up,
the
thesis
and
answers
the
problem
statement
by
verifying
the
truth
in
the
quotation
of
Oliviero
Toscani,
stating
that
the
reality
is
shocking,
not
the
pictures.
Table
of
content
1.
Introduction
.............................................................................................................................................................
1
1.1.
Description
of
purpose
and
theory
statement
..................................................................................
1
1.2.
Delimitation
.....................................................................................................................................................
3
1.3.
Structure
of
BA
thesis
..................................................................................................................................
4
2.
Background
of
United
Colors
of
Benetton
...................................................................................................
5
2.1.
Company
history
...........................................................................................................................................
5
2.2.
Oliviero
Toscani
.............................................................................................................................................
6
2.3.
Advertising
philosophy
of
Benetton
.....................................................................................................
7
2.3.1.
COLORS
magazine
...............................................................................................................................
8
2.3.2.
Fabrica
.......................................................................................................................................................
9
2.4.
UNHATE
foundation
.....................................................................................................................................
9
3.
Theoretical
background
...................................................................................................................................
11
3.1.
Shockvertising
.............................................................................................................................................
11
3.1.1.
Reasons
for
offensiveness
in
shockvertising
campaigns
..................................................
12
3.2.
Semiotics
........................................................................................................................................................
14
3.2.1.
What
is
semiotics?
.............................................................................................................................
14
3.2.2.
Charles
Sanders
Peirces
concept
of
signs
..............................................................................
15
3.2.3.
Ferdinand
de
Saussure
....................................................................................................................
18
3.2.4.
Roland
Barthes
theory
of
denotation
and
connotation
....................................................
19
4.
Methodology
.........................................................................................................................................................
21
5.
Analysis
of
Benettons
shockvertising
.......................................................................................................
22
5.1.
The
cycle
of
difference
.............................................................................................................................
22
5.2.
The
cycle
of
reality
.....................................................................................................................................
25
5.3.
The
UNHATE
Campaign
...........................................................................................................................
28
6.
Conclusion
..............................................................................................................................................................
30
7.
References
..............................................................................................................................................................
31
List
of
tables
and
figures
..........................................................................................................................................
33
1. Introduction
Chapter
one
will
introduce
my
thesis
and
further
explain
the
purpose
of
my
chosen
subject
and
hereby
determine
my
focus.
In
addition,
the
thesis
delimitations
and
structure
will
be
described.
integrity. In the communication-based society we live in, it is crucial for companies to position themselves by showing that they have something on agenda that the consumers can affiliate to or dissociate from (ibid). Benetton is not only the name of a leading clothing brand, but it is also associated with how you can succeed by means of tabooed topics such as death, racism and homosexuality. Where other international companies adapt their advertising to suit different demographics, Benetton has chosen a strategy with a universal message that is valid for all customers despite nationality, language, race or skin color (Benetton 2011). Since Oliviero Toscani became a part of Benetton advertising in 1982, the company has engaged in what can be described as shockvertising1 and is one of the initial companies to use that strategy. Therefore it is ideal to use Benetton as basis for this thesis. My motivation for writing this thesis is grounded in an interest of the shockvertising Benetton have engaged in since the 1980s and an opportunity to investigate the truth and validity in the quotation of Oliviero Toscani. Hence, my problem statement: There are no shocking pictures, only shocking reality Oliviero Toscani. Why have Benetton engaged in shockvertising? What factors make shockvertising offensive to the audience? I am aware that a lot of studies have been made on Benettons communicative strategies, but I have chosen to look at it in another perspective in terms of methodological choice, by making an analysis based on semiotics of a selection of Benetton advertisements. The advertisements are chosen thoroughly to match the theory of shockvertising and to why people get offended. I have chosen three categories of advertisements and given each a headline. Within each of these categories there are a small selection of advertisement that all deal with the headline of the category. The three categories are respectively: 1 The concept of shockvertising will be described thoroughly in chapter 3
- - -
Having described the focus and purpose of the thesis, I will now discuss the delimitations.
1.2.
Delimitation
Benetton
has
made
a
vast
number
of
controversial
advertisements,
which
can
be
used
in
an
analysis
based
on
shockvertising.
As
stated
earlier,
I
have
chosen
to
focus
on
three
categories
of
advertisements.
The
choice
is
based
on
the
fact
that
all
the
advertisements
of
one
category
have
the
same
communicative
purpose,
concerning
how
Benetton
desires
to
make
a
change
or
enlighten
society
about
a
certain
matter.
Furthermore,
I
have
chosen
two
categories
consisting
of
advertisements
from
the
timeframe
where
Oliviero
Toscani
was
leading
the
advertising
of
Benetton
and
one
category
with
recent
advertisements
from
when
the
communication
research
centre,
Fabrica.
The
categories
connect
with
some
of
the
taboo
topics
from
the
shockvertising
strategy.
Due
to
space
limitation,
it
was
not
possible
to
make
analysis
corresponding
to
all
the
topics,
and
reasons
for
why
people
find
shockvertising
offensive,
but
I
have
chosen
three
rather
significant
issues
to
include
in
the
analysis.
Furthermore,
I
have
delimitations
in
connection
to
the
theories,
which
will
be
applied.
I
have
chosen
approaches
that
will
support
my
analysis
and
interpretation
of
the
chosen
campaign
material.
I
will
explain
the
notions
of
Saussure,
Peirce
and
Barthes
regarding
semiotics,
because
of
their
importance
to
the
development
of
the
semiotics
concept.
However,
I
have
chosen
to
only
include
the
denotation
and
connotation
theory
of
Barthes
in
my
analysis,
as
it
is
the
theory
I
find
most
relevant.
Nevertheless,
the
three
theories
share
similarities,
and
to
apply
all
theories,
would
be
unnecessary.
In
my
presentation
of
the
Benetton
company,
I
have
chosen
to
provide
a
thorough
presentation
of
the
company
history,
Oliviero
Toscani,
the
advertising
philosophy,
COLORS
Magazine,
Fabrica,
and
the
UNHATE
foundation,
as
I
find
it
relevant
to
include.
with support all the way through, and the two men established a close friendship (Salvemini 2002: 28-29). Toscani had no limitations while inventing new campaigns and a new strategy for the company. Luciano has never censored the work of Toscani, because he knew that the advertising was adding a new value to the company. Luciano once said to Toscani: Oliviero, dont allow the sales managers to fool you. Trust just in your instinct and your creative ideas in your work. If you listen the marketing managers, the next thing they will tell you is where to place your camera, that the black men are too black, and the white too white. You should do, what you think should be done, and you dont even have to listen to me. (Toscani 1997: 139) Oliviero Toscani stayed as photographer for Benetton for 18 years, until 2000. His Benetton advertising campaigns have been displayed all around the world. Opponents of Toscani think his photos are outrageous, and that it is immoral to make money on other peoples misery. Toscani can take credit for creating an image Benetton still retains today (Benetton 2011).
The controversial and powerful advertising and communication philosophy is unique for Benetton, and the reader of this thesis is encouraged to keep in mind the core values: Real life, real people challenging stereotypes and shock value. 2.3.1. COLORS magazine
While Toscani was a part of Benetton advertising team, he did not only shoot pictures for advertising, but he also contributed in other ways. In 1991 he created COLORS magazine together with Tibor Kalman as an aspect of Benettons communication strategy. The philosophy behind the concept is that diversity is positive, and all cultures have equal value (Benetton 2011). The target group of the magazine is young adults across the world. It is distributed quarterly in more than 40 countries and published in four bilingual editions, all in English and respectively Italian, French, Spanish and Korean. The content of the magazine is about the rest of the world (Colors 2013). Every issue takes a certain topic and covers it from an international perspective. Examples of past covered topics are light topics such as travel, fashion and shopping, and more challenging serious topics such as AIDS, war, ecology, immigration, religion, slavery, and race. The latter topics are often deemed controversial by other publication houses and are hardly ever published or written about. The most important medium in COLORS is pictures. Pictures are expressive, universal and are able to reach the greatest number of people with a strong immediate impact. In 2006 COLORS magazine started a project with Pomidou Centre from Paris and Reporters without Borders3 called COLORS Notebook. It is a special edition of the magazine with 50 blank pages, so the receivers can write their own story or express themselves, as they like. COLORS Notebooks have been distributed all over the world to those groups of people that no one listens to, including Chinese prison inmates, South African children, people with mental disorder, and ordinary people among others. The purpose is to give voice to the rest of the world, and give people a chance to tell stories that nobody has ever heard (Ibid). COLORS have been awarded several times for their photos, editorial design, and website. 3 Reporters without Borders is an international non-profit and non-governmental organization that promotes freedom of speech and defends journalists around the world. The organization has consultant status at the United Nations.
Today COLORS is a part of the publishing activity of Fabrica, which will be described in the next paragraph. 2.3.2. Fabrica
In
1994
Benetton
Group
established
Fabrica
in
collaboration
with
Oliviero
Toscani.
Fabrica
is
a
communication
research
centre
in
Treviso
in
Italy.
It
is
not
a
school,
an
advertising
agency,
nor
a
university.
It
is
a
creativity
laboratory
where
young
artist
and
designers
from
around
the
world
are
invited
to
work
in
the
areas
of
design,
visual
communication,
photography,
interaction,
video,
music,
and
publishing
under
the
guidance
of
mentors,
combining
personal
projects
with
work
for
clients.
The
centre
is
financed
by
Benetton
Group,
and
is
located
near
Venice,
in
an
ancient
villa
from
the
seventeenth
century.
A
major
restoration
and
enlargement
project
was
carried
out
by
Tadao
Ando,
and
included
the
creation
of
study
areas,
laboratories,
offices,
and
facilities
such
as
a
library,
a
cinema,
and
an
auditorium.
The
mixture
of
vintage
and
modern
architecture
encourages
communication
and
dialogue
between
people
from
different
backgrounds.
The
research
of
the
centre
strives
to
practice
the
criticism
or
review
of
communication.
Furthermore,
the
centre
does
research
into
future
trends
and
new
ideas,
which
are
conducted
among
students,
who
actively
research
in
their
field
of
communication
(Fabrica
2012).
The campaign was created as a part of Benetton Groups corporate social responsibility strategy. With the symbolic images of reconciliation, with a touch of irony and constructive provocation, Benetton hoped to stimulate reflections on politics even when they are mutually opposed, and lead them to dialogue. The simple message of UNHATE reflects tolerance, and Benetton returns to consideration of the cultural conversation. Love and hate are often closely related, but with an unstable balance. With this campaign, Benetton wishes to stabilize the relationship between the two. Besides the controversial images of kissing world leaders, the campaign includes projects in different geographical areas with the purpose to promote acceptance of diversity and establish educational programs against hate. The latest UNHATE campaign is called Unemployee of the year, showing pictures of unemployed people under 30 years old, dressed up in a suit, with the title of a non-journalist, non sound engineer, non-lawyer etc. All unemployed people between 18 and 30 are invited to submit ideas for projects to the UNHATE foundation. The projects must contain a social impact on the community. There will then be a vote on the UNHATE website, and the 100 most worthy projects will receive support from the foundation, so they can be carried out in reality (Ibid). Today it seems like nothing can surprise audiences anymore, but again the campaign has met criticism for not really being advertising and for taking it too far.
10
3. Theoretical
background
In
this
section
of
the
thesis,
all
relevant
concepts
and
theories
will
be
examined
in
order
to
create
the
foundation
for
the
analysis.
First
of
all,
an
introduction
to
the
concept
of
shockvertising
will
be
presented
followed
up
by
a
research
description
of
reasons
of
offence.
Later
I
will
introduce
semiotics,
and
describe
the
theories
of
Charles
Sanders
Peirce,
Ferdinand
de
Saussure
and
Roland
Barthes.
3.1.Shockvertising
Shockvertising
is
a
contraction
of
the
two
words
shock
and
advertising.
The
term
refers
to
the
use
of
controversial,
provocative,
disturbing
or
explicit
content
to
attract
the
consumers
attention
through
the
advertising
clutter.
Advertisers
hope
to
sell
their
products
by
horrifying,
terrifying,
offensive,
repulsive,
taboo
and
emotion-provoking
images,
and
evoking
feelings
amongst
consumers
(Shock
Advertising
2013).
As
the
fight
for
catching
the
attention
of
the
consumers
has
become
continuously
more
difficult,
shockvertising
is
an
opportunity
to
be
noticed
in
the
clutter
of
competition.
The
strategy
has
become
popular
during
the
last
three
decades.
This
type
of
advertising
is
employed
to
sensitize
people
to
religion,
racism,
war,
poverty,
and
other
taboo
topics.
The
more
shocking
the
campaign,
the
more
it
will
provoke
commotion
(Ibid).
Like
any
other
type
of
advertising,
shockvertising
has
limits.
The
success
of
a
shocking
campaign
depends
on
the
context,
the
product,
and
the
message
you
want
to
get
across.
If
the
shockvertising
is
tasteful,
it
will
prove
a
point
successfully,
but
if
the
amount
of
shock
and
disgust
is
too
high,
it
might
make
people
to
look
away,
and
the
advertisement
have
failed
(Waller
2004).
Companies
that
employ
shocking
advertisement
get
more
media
coverage,
because
of
the
shock
value.
The
companies
are
often
target
for
discussion
in
the
media,
about
ethic
standards.
This
kind
of
media
coverage
is
free
for
the
company
behind
the
discussed
advertisement
or
campaign.
It
is
also
risky,
since
the
company
could
develop
a
negative
image.
A
late
Danish
king
of
travel,
Simon
Spies,
once
said
Bad
press
is
better
than
no
press4
4
Translated
from
the
original
quotation
Drlig
omtale
er
bedre
end
ingen
omtale
11
(Spies, 2011). On the basis of this statement and the fact that the companies engage in using shockvertising voluntarily, you might think that they are not concerned about being target for bad press. They are aware that the advertisements are controversial and will evoke feelings among the receivers and the media. When investigating the concept of shockvertising it is impossible not to refer to Benetton and Oliviero Toscani. The eighteen years of collaboration made a parade of shockvertising in the advertising industry, and questioned its role through the controversial and shocking campaigns, and by shocking the receivers together with exceeding the limits of decency and taboos. Shockvertising may implement appeals of fear. The objective for using such appeal is to motivate the audience to a certain action or educate about a certain danger.
3.1.1. Reasons for offensiveness in shockvertising campaigns Calder, Phillips and Tybout have conducted a research among university students in a large urban university. The purpose of the research was to measure the attitudes towards controversial products advertising and reasons for offensiveness. The usage of cross-cultural sample had the advantage of separating any cultural differences if such exist (Waller 2010). A sample contained 150 students, 73 male and 77 female. The age range among the 150 students was from 18 to 40 years old, with an average age of 21.87. The students were placed in two groups according to their age, one group of 21 years or younger and the other of 22 years of older (Ibid). Respondents were asked to state the level of offence, which every reason caused for their feelings and personality, by stating a point from a five-point scale, 1 meaning not at all offensive and 5 meaning extremely offensive. The list of reasons to be examined, included the 11 headlines: Racist image, sexist image, violence, stereotyping of people, hard sell, concern for children, subject too personal, indecent language, nudity, health & safety issues and lastly anti-social behavior (Ibid: 5).
12
Product Racist image Sexist image Violence Stereotyping of people Hard sell children Subject personal Indecent language Nudity Health safety issues Anti-social behavior *p<.020
TOTAL 4.32 (2.59) 3.60 (1.28) 3.55 (1.33) 3.38 (1.12) 3.24 (1.21) (1.41) too 3.13 (1.21) 3.11 (1.23) 3.06 (1.31) and 3.02 (1.35) 2.94 (1.27)
Males 4.51 (3.52) 3.16 (1.36) 3.16 (1.37) 3.14 (1.18) 3.37 (1.26) 3.10 (1.42) 2.84 (1.20) 2.77 (1.24) 2.64 (1.38) 2.85 (1.34) 2.92 (1.22)
Females 4.14 (1.16) 4.01 ** (1.04) 3.91 ** (1.19) 3.60 ** (1.03) 3.11 (1.14) 3.32 (1.40) 3.42 ** (1.15) 3.43 ** (1.14) 3.45 ** (1.12) 3.19 (1.34) 2.96 (1.32)
21 or less 4.37 (3.28) 3.64 (1.35) 3.28 (1.37) 3.34 (1.14) 2.99 (1.20) 2.97 (1.42) 3.09 (1.15) 2.96 (1.28) 3.00 (1.29) 2.97 (1.32) 2.71 (1.29)
22 + 4.24 (.94) 3.53 (1.20) 3.97 ** (1.18) 3.42 (1.13) 3.59 ** (1.12) 3.50 ** (1.35) 3.19 (1.32) 3.28 (1.14) 3.10 (1.36) 3.11 (1.40) 3.30 ** (1.19)
Table 1. Reasons for offensiveness (adapted from Waller 2004, 5) Waller found out that the age of the respondents influenced the study in a significant way. The older group was much more offended by advertisements representing violence, hard sell,
13
concern for children and anti-social behavior than the younger group. When looking on the results of a gender point of view, Waller found out that females are more offended to sexist image, violence, stereotyping of people, subject too personal, indecent language and nudity than the group of males. This finding did not surprise Waller, because women are often objects for sexism, stereotyping and nudity (Ibid: 6) The research proves that the receivers are not offended by particular products in the advertisements, but because of the content and message of the advertisement. It is worth noticing that gender is a stronger determinant of offensiveness in comparison to age. This proves that women are more offended by controversial advertising than men. The research can be helpful for companies before engaging in shockvertising, in order to aim their campaigns directly to their target groups, and to know which element to avoid, if the plan is not to offend a certain gender or age (Ibid).
3.2.Semiotics
The
analysis
is
based
on
semiotics,
and
therefore
this
section
will
provide
an
overview
of
the
fundamental
concepts
of
semiotics
with
the
emphasis
on
the
theorists
Ferdinand
de
Saussure,
Roland
Barthes
and
Charles
Sanders
Peirce.
3.2.1.
What
is
semiotics?
Semiotics
originates
from
the
old
Greece
and
the
Greek
word
for
sign:
semeon.
Semiotics
is
the
scientific
discipline
study
of
signs
and
their
meanings.
Semiotics
is
based
on
the
structuralism,
which
was
founded
by
the
Swiss
linguist,
Ferdinand
de
Saussure.
Saussure
was
interested
in
signs
and
sign
systems
within
speech,
and
he
pointed
out
that
structures
are
nothing
when
they
are
alone,
but
is
attached
to
a
meaning
when
they
are
put
in
relation
to
other
elements.
Therefore,
Saussure
was
particularly
aware
of
the
different
elements
relation
to
each
other
in
stead
of
the
elements
relation
to
reality.
This
basis
is
the
crucial
difference
between
the
comprehension
of
signs
by
Saussure
and
the
American
logician,
Charles
Sanders
Peirce.
14
Where Saussure looks on signs as two-sided, with a substance of expression, Peirce operates with a three-sided conception of signs, which includes the relation of the sign to the surrounding world. Saussure regards the relationship between expression and substance as arbitrary, which means that there is no deeper understanding of the word dog corresponding to a specific animal. The crucial is that the society of speech has created agreement about the meaning of signs. Likewise, Peirce believes that a sign is arbitrary, because he repudiates the idea of a sign having inherent characteristics. The crucial distinction between Saussure and Peirce is that the latter involve the receiver as an active partner in the decoding of the sign, and in that way he works with a three-sided concept of signs. It can be difficult to compare Saussure and Pierce, since the each represents two different traditions of research. Saussure is engrossed by signs in the speech system, while Peirce believes a more extensive and broader theory of signs by looking at all forms of communication as signs, and not only speech. During the past few years it has been predominantly Peirces comprehension of the concept of signs, which has gained footing. The reason is that Peirce relates to the meaning of a sign to the society and surrounding world, for which reason his understanding has been ascribed the term pragmatic semiotics (Barker 2012, Aber 2013, Perloff 2010). 3.2.2. Charles Sanders Peirces concept of signs An important point of Peirces comprehension of signs is that a sign is to be comprehended as a relation of signs, which consist of three elements the actual sign5, the object and the interpretant. A sign is first an acting sign, when all three elements are present and connected.
15
Peirce
defines
a
sign
like
this:
A
sign
or
representamen
is
something,
which
stand
to
somebody
for
something
in
some
respect
or
capacity.
It
addresses
somebody,
that
is,
creates
in
the
mind
of
that
person
an
equivalent
sign,
or
perhaps
a
more
developed
sign.
That
sign
which
it
creates
I
call
the
interpretant
of
the
first
sign.
The
sign
stands
for
something,
its
object.
It
stands
for
that
object,
not
in
all
respects,
but
in
reference
to
a
sort
of
idea,
which
I
have
sometimes
called
the
ground
of
the
representamen
(Aber
2013)
As
it
appears
from
the
quotation,
Pierce
is
convinced
that
the
sign
alone
means
nothing
that
is
to
say
it
has
no
inherent
characteristics,
because
which
stand
to
somebody
for
something
refers
to
that
a
significance
of
a
sign
require
a
human
decoding
process.
Likewise,
Peirce
points
out
in
the
quotation
that
everything
can
be
signs
in
some
respect
or
capacity,
because
this
addition
indicates,
that
a
sign
not
only
is
reduced
to
include
words,
but
also
can
include
possible
signs
such
as
physical
or
mental
characteristics
(clothes,
cars,
mess,
smile
etc.)
(Aber
2013)
If
we
return
to
the
relation
of
signs,
the
representamen
is
the
actual
sign,
whether
it
concerns
sound,
color,
speech
or
writing
and
is
a
sign
for
the
object.
The
object
is
what
representamen
refers
to
or
stands
for,
while
the
interpretant
is
the
interpreted
signification
of
the
relation
between
representamen
and
the
object
the
mental
picture,
which
the
representamen
generates.
In
this
way
you
can
argue
that
an
interpretant
is
created
in
the
moment
when
a
new
sign
is
constructed,
which
Peirce
indicates
as
unlimited
semiosis.
This
Sign / representamen Object Interpretant
16
process can be interpreted as an endless line of associations, where the sign mom can lead the receiver to the interpretant food, which can be lead further to homely comfort, idyll, relaxation etc. This endless semiosis has the semiotic buzzword that people is in a distance of an interpretation from reality. According to Peirce, a sign does not exist before it is connected to a human decoding process, and therefore Pierce has to refuse the power to the receiver in a situation of communication. In the light of a marketing perspective, it has the consequence that the receivers embedded codes in an advertisement for instance, does not make sense, until the text is connected to a receiver (Ibid). Peirce claims that a sign can be divided by how it refers to reality. He distinguishes between three types of signs, which arise in the relation between the representamen and the object: iconic, indexical and symbolic. The iconic sign looks like the object it stands for. One example can be a photo. On the other hand, the indexical sign has a proximity connection with the object, which either can be physical or mental. For example the Eiffel Tower can be perceived as an indexical sign of Paris. The symbolic sign refers to the object by virtue of a convention, that the speech community has agreed on and can be a rose having the symbolic meaning of love. Everything has a meaning. For instance, if you look at a regular home, all the furniture, the carpets, the paintings on the wall are all selected with a particular reference to express something: comfort, modern design or something completely different. Things have a meaning whether the meaning is intentional or not. Or whether the meaning are decoded by others, across the owners intention or not. They still mean something (Ibid). We read signs every day, and we all express signs in our speech and our consumer behavior. We are all a sort of every day semioticians. The significance that semiotics has for marketing, is the link between production, advertising and consumer behavior.
17
3.2.3. Ferdinand de Saussure As briefly described before, Ferdinand de Saussure was a Swiss linguist, and he introduced semiotics into linguistics as a term of the general knowledge about signs. He considered speech as a sign system in line with other sign systems such as writing and the deaf-mute alphabet. Saussures sign concept was revolutionary because he ascribed the linguistic sign a meaning. So far the interpretation had been that the sign concept was one-sided, understood like an object and its meaning was inseparably connected. Saussure made the sign concept two-sided and explained that the sign is a relation between signifier (signifiant), being the signs level of expression, and signified (signifi), being the signs level of content. He interpreted that the expression is a meaningful form and the content is the concept that the expression generates by the subject. The content does not exist physically, but only in a mental representation for the level of expression; so saying it is the mental expression, which is the essential (Aber 2013). Saussure illustrates his two-sided sign concept with the word ox. This specifies that the sign is arbitrary by showing that the content of the word ox does not equals the animal ox, but is mental concept of ox. The speech community has reached an agreement that this specific word and the specific animal correspond. The linguistic sign emerge as a result of a process that is to say that the connection of expression and content creates the actual signification of the sign. In another way, you can say that signifier and signified, which indicate the linguistic signs two sides, can only appear simultaneously and in that way it is the mutual opposition that gives the two sides value and existence (Barker 2012: 76-79).
18
3.2.4. Roland Barthes theory of denotation and connotation The French semioticians, Roland Barthes, based his theory on Saussures sign concept by acknowledging that a sign has content and an expression. He developed Saussures semiotic approach further by including the visual level. Barthes lets us in on how an image actively can entail a new creation of concept and he also introduces us to the relationship between text and image. According to Barthes, denotation and connotation include all signs, such as images, words etc. Barthes describes the concept of denotation being the descriptive, and literal level of meaning shared by virtually all members of culture. Thus. pig may denote the concept of a useful pink farm animal with a snout and curly tail, etc. (Barker 2012: 79). To explain the denotation level you ask the question of what is in the picture which objects there are. Barthes states that every image is polysemic6. By asking for meaning you produce the different polysemic denotations, which the denotation observation and analysis answer partially. The general premise of Barthes definition is that the denotation level is a message without codes, which is the diametrical opposites to the connotation level, which are coded. The codeless message as naturally founded, while the connotation is culturally founded. However, Barthes has modified this hypothesis by distinguishing between codeless denotation messages and coded denotation messages. The codeless messages can be photos (iconic signs) and the coded messages can be cartoons and other (indexical and symbolic signs). The question is if Barthes thinks that some signs eventually have become commonly known and accepted, so that the sign can appear naturally on the denotation level, and in that way the signs do not seem coded and staged. The connotation level must be interpreted in connection with the denotation level, as the connotation level arises by the denotation level of a sign. A sign can be compared to a coin, which consist of two sides of the same coin. 6 Polysemic means that a sign/word/image carries more than one potential meaning (Barker 2012: 82)
19
Sign
Signifier
Signifier Signified
Signified
Connotation Denotation
Figure 3. Saussures two-sided sign concept The connotation level can be defined like this: Connotation involves meanings that are generated by connecting signifiers to wider cultural concerns. Here, meanings involved the association of signs with other cultural codes of meaning. Thus, pig may connote a nasty police officer or male chauvinist according to the sub-codes or lexicons at work (Barker 2012: 79). The connotation level is always coded culturally, and the decoding of the connotation must require that the receiver is able to decode the cultural meaning that the denotation generates. An important point is that the connotation is not conditioned individual, but is common for a speech community. Some connotation meanings can be the same for a speech community, while other connotations can be difficult to decode, due to an individual perception of the sign. Barthes indicates that denotation employs the syntagma axis, which is how different signs are combined. Connotation employs the paradigm axis, which is how much the sign differs from other signs the contrast axis. By replacing some of the signs, a connotation of a sign can seem more inspiring (Aber 2013).
20
4. Methodology
The
thesis
is
overall
structured
according
to
Friedrich
Schleiermachers
notion
on
hermeneutics,
and
its
connection
to
interpretation
of
an
image.
It
is
understood
that
by
analyzing
images
according
to
the
hermeneutical
approach,
it
is
possible
to
understand
how
Benetton
is
communicating
through
interpretation.
The
problem
statement
lay
out
the
research
questions
for
the
thesis.
I
intend
to
find
out
why
Benetton
have
engaged
in
using
shockvertising,
and
what
makes
shockvertising
offensive
to
the
audience.
I
order
to
answer
these
questions
I
will
make
an
analysis
of
three
categories
of
Benetton
advertisements.
In
the
analysis
I
will
employ
theories
from
semiotics.
The
analysis
is
subjective,
and
based
on
my
own
findings.
As
this
is
our
purpose 7 ,
the
hermeneutic
approach
provides
a
good
framework
for
understanding
the
communication
strategy
of
Benetton,
and
furthermore
interprets
on
the
findings.
Schleiermacher
argues
that
it
is
not
possible
to
know
the
purpose
behind
an
image
without
acquiring
knowledge
about
the
sender
of
the
image
(Beck
Holm
2011:
89).
To
relate
that
theory
to
my
thesis,
it
says
that
in
order
to
analyze
the
communicative
strategy
of
Benetton,
I
must
be
able
to
understand
Benetton,
regarding
communication
history
of
the
company.
Therefore,
I
have
introduced
the
history
and
advertising
philosophy
of
Benetton
in
the
second
chapter,
Background
of
United
Colors
of
Benetton,
and
throughout
the
analysis
I
will
reflect
and
interpret
on
the
communicative
strategy.
I
will
be
applying
the
hermeneutical
approach
by
analyzing
and
interpreting
of
campaign
material
and
also
theoretical
material,
and
hereby
provide
answers
to
the
problem
statement.
In
order
to
provide
these
answers
it
is
necessary
to
apply
a
combination
of
theories
on
semiotics
and
shockvertising.
One
by
one
I
will
analyze
the
three
categories
of
advertisements
with
the
headlines
The
cycle
of
difference,
The
cycle
of
reality
and
The
UNHATE
campaign.
Each
analysis
will
begin
with
an
introduction
to
the
category
of
advertisements.
After
having
analyzed
the
three
categories,
I
will
provide
a
conclusion
of
the
findings
in
the
analysis
and
giving
a
final
answer
to
the
problem
statement.
7
The
purpose
is
also
described
in
the
introduction
(chapter
1)
21
The first image (upper left) is from autumn-winter 1989. This image is the most awarded print ad from Benetton. The denotation of the advertisement is a black woman breastfeeding a white child. The connotations would be an undertone of slavery the black woman is nursing the white baby. The second image (upper right) is from autumn-winter 1989. The denotation is a white and a black man handcuffed together. The connotation would be that every man has the equal willingness to commit crime. Benetton is trying to disprove the stereotyping idea of black
22
people committing crime. In the matter of crime, the skin-color is not crucial. Another connotation is that the men are equal despite different skin-color. The first and second images were both part of the autumn-winter campaign in 1988-1989. In both images we see two persons, respectively a white and a black, and none of them are showing faces. This is a sign of Benetton wanting to make a general statement about mixture of skin color. At the time these images were published, apartheid was still a reality in parts of the world and strong racist beliefs were still held. Toscani and Benetton published the first image all over the world, because they felt that racism was a very important social issue that should not be ignored but openly dealt with. The reactions towards the image were controversial. In the United States the black community strongly opposed the image of a white baby, because they felt it was racist that Toscani was trying to underline the clich of the black wet nurse and the white newborn baby. The population perceived the advertisement as dehumanizing, because the black woman is headless (Salvemini 2002: 46). The second image of the two handcuffed men also raised many controversial feelings. Both men are wearing denim jeans and jackets with a lighter blue shirt underneath. Just as the black woman in the first image, the two men are headless. Combined these two facts are making it impossible, for the receiver to tell if it is two criminals or if it is a guard and a prisoner, and in the latter case who is who. Toscani did not want to discriminate against anyone, but instead he wanted to show that black and white are the same, and that racism is created by humans, so it should equally be exterminated by humans (ibid). Benettons campaign was accepted positively by Nelson Mandela, who invited Oliviero Toscani and Luciano Benetton to visit South Africa, to thank them for supporting the fight against racial discrimination. This proves the point how you can make changes in the way people think and act by raising worldwide awareness of social issues. The third image (lower left) from spring-summer 1996 shows three hearts. The denotation of the image is three human hearts, with the stating of being from respectively a white, a black and a yellow person. The connotation is that no matter the skin-color, we are all the same on the inside. The image was considered to be one of Benettons most racist, but the intention was the opposite. In actuality the hearts were pig hearts, but the image is a wonderful
23
symbolic way of showing that racism is wrong, and based on the exterior of a human being, because on the inside, there is no difference (Salvemini 2002: 129). The fourth and last image (lower right) is from autumn-winter 1991 and shows a priest and a nun engaging in a kiss. The denotation of the advertisement is the priest and the nun, while the basic level of connotation is religion. The sign is the couple kissing, and the signified is love and affection. The signifiers that built this illusion are the opposites of black and white. In the analysis of the first two images, black and white related to skin-color, but in this images the black and white signify opposites in terms of religion or male vs. female. Once again the image brought a controversial response, due to the taboo of two religions colliding. Accusation of blasphemy was heard in the media, but again Benetton tried to prove the opposite, in this case affirmation of pure human sentiment (Salvemini 2002: 49-50). We cannot identify which religion the priest and the nun belong to, which gives the image the feature of aiming at religion in general and not two specific religions. Attitudes towards religion in the everyday life are very strong. One of the many rules within almost any existing religion is that relationships between different religions are taboo. The acceptance of inter- religious relationships has grown during the last few decades, but there are still religions where these relationships are not tolerated. Another connotation and interpretation could be that Toscani was aiming the image at the Catholic Churchs belief of celibacy. When somebody has devoted his or her life to God by becoming a nun, monk or priest, it is a sin to break the celibacy. As both Toscani and Benetton originate from Italy where the Catholic religion is the dominating, it is very likely that it was this interpretation Toscani was aiming for. Common to all four images of this category, is that none of them contain any text, besides the green logo with the brand name. As first stated the category is about difference, but at the same time, it is just as much about equality and indifference. The images certainly show the differences, but aims to prove a point that we are not that different. We are the same on the inside, we can be in love across religions and we can commit a crime whether we are black or white. All images were perceived as controversial, even though they were aiming to fight against racism and not to prove it.
24
25
The first image (upper left) is from the spring-summer 1994. The denotation is a set of bloodstained clothing. The connotation is victim of war. Opposite many other Benetton advertisements, this one contents a small piece of text, in the top of the image. The text is a long caption of typescript in an incomprehensible language. Toscani let it be known that the set of clothing belonged to the Bosnian soldier Marinko Gagro who was killed during the war in former Yugoslavia, and that the writing was in Serbo-Croat (Salvemini 2002: 115-118). The clothing is placed in a way, which shows a figure of a supine man. There is a visible slot from a bullet, through which he lost his life. Toscani had a wish to make a new campaign with connection to the Yugoslavian war. Received the clothing in a package from the father of the soldier. The father didnt want his son to have lost his life in vain. In the package followed a letter to Toscani from the father, wishing to employ the name of his son. The advertisement triggered controversy all over the world. Toscanis aim was not to shock, but to touch and move peoples consciences, at the same time as showing the reality of war (ibid). The second image (upper right) is from spring-summer 1991. The denotation of the image is a cemetery with hundreds of white crosses. The connotation is to show that many people die in war. The picture shows a World War I cemetery in France. The basic thought behind the advertisement was to show that in wartime, no matter what happens, no one really wins, because hundreds of lives are lost. The advertisement was published during the Gulf war. It was only published in one newspaper in Italy, because the others refused to print it (Salvemini 2002: 47-49). The third image (middle left) is from autumn-winter 1991. The denotation is a newborn baby girl still attached to the umbilical cord. The connotation is to celebrate the beginning of a new life. All human beings begin their life this way. The aim was intended as a celebration of life, and Toscani had a hope that it would be the first time he could reach his intended aim. But this time it became worse. It turned out to be one of the most censured visuals in the history of Benetton advertisements, even though it might the most realistic of all. Toscani introduced the baby as Giusy, which is the girls name. Despite the many complaints, Luciano Benetton was satisfied with the advertisement. He intoned the
26
quotation of Simon Spies, by saying that he liked that the company was noticed, even though it was criticized (Salvemini 2002). The fourth image (middle right) is from autumn-winter 1993. The denotation is a mans nude upper body with a tattoo saying H.I.V. positive. The connotation is that this man is infected with HIV. The image serves to show awareness about the disease. The tattoo is a symbolic of the disease. A tattoo is forever and is irremovable, so is the HIV disease. The image and campaign achieved its aim. European newspapers, AIDS organizations, politicians and television stations spoke up. Toscani was both defended and hated for the campaign, but nevertheless did he achieve to create awareness and start discussions of the HIV and AIDS disease. The advertisement serves another purpose to focus on the way that many people are unfairly labeled or stereotyped (Salvemini 2002: 114-115). The fifth and last image (lower) is from spring-summer 1992. The denotation of the picture is a young man looking very sick, surrounded by his mourning family. The connotation is a family saying the last goodbye to their AIDS infected son and brother. In the spring of 1992 Toscani changed his expression: In stead of using his own photos shot in his white studio, which caused a distance in the picture, he started to use exclusively pictures that other people already had published, which intensified the expression of the photo. Side by side with this switch, the virtuous indignation intensified and reached its peak when this image of the dying AIDS patient David Kirby, surrounded by his family and a priest, was published. Benetton donated a large amount of money to educational work about AIDS, because it was the only condition from David Kirbys family, for Benetton to use the picture. As described in the chapter about shockvertising, the advertisers sometimes use fear appeals to motivate to certain action or educate about a certain danger. As in the previous advertisement about being HIV positive, Benetton wanted to educate their consumers about the danger of AIDS, and motivate them to safe sex. This message is also the connotation. It is the most moving and expressing image from the timeframe when Toscani lead the Benetton advertising. Thrse Frare originally took the photo in Ohio State Hospital, but it was Toscani who came up with the idea of implementing it in Benetton advertising. There was no additional signatures, comments or titles to the image when it was published. He desired
27
the picture to speak for itself. The image angered people at how far Benetton had gone in trying to make a point. All five images show reality. Nevertheless, they are some of the images of Benetton that has met the most criticism. All images reflect life, death, war and disease in a natural way. They all show something that we can easily experience in real life, with the exception of the HIV tattoo, which serves more to prove a point and creating awareness instead of the showing of a tattoo.
28
The analysis of the four advertisements will be concluded in one section, due to the considerable similarities between them. The first image (upper left) shows Angela Merkel, the Chancellor of Germany, and Nicolas Sarkozy, the former President of France. The second image (upper right) shows the former Pope Benedict XVI and Ahmed el Tayyeb, imam of the Al-Azhar Mosque in Cairo. The third image (lower left) shows Kim Jong-Il, the former Supreme Leader of North Korea and Lee Myung Bak, the President of South Korea. Lastly, the fourth image (lower right) shows Barack Obama, President of the United States of America and Hugo Chvez, the former President of Venezuela. The denotation of the images is two people kissing. The connotation is controversy in terms of two opposing persons caught in an intimate kiss, which represent friendship and peace. All the persons are of great power. They are either leaders of their country or their religion. They are easy to recognize and well known. In order to understand what symbolic meaning these persons represents in the advertisements, it is not important to discuss their personality, but it is important to emphasize the fact that these pairs are from conflicting countries as South Korea and North Korea, are representing to very different religions ad the imam and the pope or are representing two different political ideologies as Merkel with Sarkozy and Obama with Chvez. Due to limitations, and irrelevance, this will not be discussed or explained any further. It is very surprising to observe two antagonists engaging in a kiss, and the kiss is simultaneously and very intimate. Kissing signifies friendliness, love and intimacy and since the kiss and intimacy appears between two publicly well-known and powerful people, it evokes an even higher curiosity, compared to if it was to strangers. The fact that the two persons engaging in the kiss in every picture are antagonists, make the advertisements very controversial, and provoke feelings of the people, who are closely and emotionally connected to the country, politic ideology or religion that the persons represents. Another sign in the advertisements is the formal outfits of the persons. This helps to reflect their identity and the high position they hold. The aim of the images is to show that no matte the country or religion, that even though everyone has different views, we should not hate (Unhate 2013). Many people did not view them as such. Just as the case with the image of a dying ADIS patient, the people said that Benetton had gone too far.
29
The second image of the imam and the Pope received criticism as being blasphemy just as the picture of the priest and the nun kissing. As mentioned in the presentation of the UNHATE Foundation, the UNHATE image of the imam and Pope was removed from all publications, after the Vatican send out a threat to seek legal action (Butt 2011) It is important to point out that all images are edited, and none of these persons engaged in the kisses. The purpose of the campaign is good, as with all Benetton Campaigns. The aim is to reduce the existence of hate between countries and religions.
6. Conclusion
Quickly
after
Toscani
became
a
part
of
Benetton,
the
brand
became
world
famous
for
better
and
for
worse.
None
of
Benettons
products
are
included
in
the
picture,
which
is
a
common
factor
in
Toscanis
advertising
expression.
Everything
that
Oliviero
Toscanis
pictures
and
advertisements
tried
to
reflect,
were
facts
from
all
social
classes,
religions
and
races
from
the
whole
world.
Controversial
compared
to
the
common
type
of
advertising?
Yes.
But
offensive?
One
might
wonder
why
Benetton
have
engaged
in
shockvertising
and
continued
this
communication
strategy
despite
several
accusations,
threats
and
bad
press.
It
has
always
been
Benettons
philosophy
to
demonstrate
a
message
or
prove
a
point
in
their
advertising.
They
want
their
advertisements
to
make
important
changes,
instead
of
selling
more
sweaters.
People
get
offended
when
the
advertisements
get
too
close
to
their
everyday
lives.
They
are
most
comfortable
when
the
advertisements
show
a
modified
reality,
but
not
the
truth.
The
advertisements
of
Benetton
have
provoked
many
strong
feelings
since
the
1980s,
regarding
politics,
racism,
life,
death,
HIV,
AIDS,
religion
etc.
The
analysis
showed
a
broad
selection
of
controversial
advertisements
from
Benetton
campaigns,
and
explained
how
every
single
one
of
them
had
caused
controversy.
Often
the
most
realistic
advertisements
are
the
ones,
which
offends
the
most,
such
as
the
newborn
baby
girl
Giusy,
or
the
AIDS
patient,
David
Kirby,
on
his
deathbed.
The
second
category
of
advertisements
of
reality
proves
perfectly
that
the
quotation
of
Oliviero
Toscani
There
are
no
shocking
pictures
only
shocking
reality
is
true.
30
7. References
Books:
Barker,
C.
(2012)
Cultural
studies
theory
and
practice,
4th
edn.
London:
Sage
Publications
Ltd.
Beck
Holm,
A.
(2011)
Videnskab
I
virkeligheden:
En
grundbog
I
videnskabsteori.
Kbenhavn:
Samfundslitteratur.
Perloff,
R.M.
(2010)
The
Dynamics
of
Persuasion
Communication
and
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