27 Unspoken Suit Rules Every Man Should Know

1/11/14
27 Unspoken Suit Rules Every Man Should Know

You cant expect to look all dapper and gentlemanly without knowing Suiting 101.
posted on January 7, 2014 at 12:21pm EST
Peggy Wang
BuzzFeed Staff
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Justine Zweib el / BuzzFeed
1. The width of the tie should match the width of the lapel.
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SMALTO / malemodelscene.net
Its all about BALANCE.
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2. In general, thin lapels are more modern. Wide lapels are more old-school, Mad Men style.
AMC
So choose your look accordingly.
3. A pocket square adds an extra level of polish, but make sure it doesnt match your tie in either pattern or fabric choice.
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theversatilegent.tumb lr.com
Before you go totally conservative, remember that the pocket square is where you get the most freedom and the one place you get to add a little pizzazz to your suit.
4. When buying an off-the-rack suit, the number one thing to check is how the shoulders fit.
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huffingtonpost.com
Tsk, tsk, John McCain. Shoulder pads should end at the shoulders. The shoulders are the hardest to tailor, so make sure they dont stick out or stick up.
5. A collar gap between your jackets lapels and your shirts collar can signify an ill-fitting jacket.
putthison.com
putthison.com
Its complicated. Read more about it here.
6. Opt for a charcoal or gray suit over black, unless youre attending a funeral.
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suitsupply.tumb lr.com
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Dark gray is more versatile and goes with more colors.
7. Your belt should be fairly thin and the same color as your shoes.
b uzzfeed.com
Union Made makes really great belts in a variety of leather and metal finishes.
8. You should match your shoes to the color of your suit using this guide:
putthison.com / Via reddit.com

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9. Double vents in the back are more modern and fashionable.
jcrew.com
jcrew.com
This look is also more flattering for larger figures, and it gives you enough room to do that effortlessly casual hand in pocket thing.
10. For a more casual, trendy look, opt for a single-button peak-lapel jacket.
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needsupply.com
11. If youre going for more formal business attire, opt for a double-button, notched lapel jacket.
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White Collar / USA

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12. The Savile Row Fold keeps your dress pants from falling off the hanger.
lifehacker.com
Watch the instructional video here.
13. You should be able to slip your hand between your chest and your buttoned jacket such that it feels snug, but with room to move.
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David Agb odji for Barneys
14. Always unbutton your suit before sitting down, or you risk ruining it.
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Dimitrios Kamb ouris / Getty Images for Victorias Secret
15. The top button of a two-button (or the middle button of

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a three-button) should fall at or above the navel.
lechateau.com
16. Always go with the classic windsor knot for your tie, but use the size of your head to determine whether you
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should go half or full windsor.
feeldesain.com
BIG HEAD = FULL KNOT. SMALL HEAD = HALF KNOT. If youre not sure how your head size compares, ask one of your male friends. They should be able to give you an objective opinion.
17. If youre wearing a vest, always keep the bottom

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button unbuttoned.
jcrew.com
But plenty of men break this rule and are still able to pull off the three-piece beautifully.
18. There are practical reasons for vests beyond just how they look.
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menstylefashion.com
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A vest is best worn with single-breasted suits (so its actually visible). if youre going to be wearing your suit in a cold climate, a vest can add a lot of warmth. It also adds a formal touch to your suit.
19. Sleeve cuffs should be exposed about half an inch.
pinterest.com
For a harmonious look, try to match the visible cuff length to the amount of collar that is visible at the back of the neck.
20. When you get your suit home, youll need a seam ripper or a small, sharp pair of scissors.
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Unstitch the jackets pockets, remove the tack stitches from the jackets vents, and remove the little embroidered label from the jackets left sleeve. Do this very carefully to ensure you dont actually rip the fabric or neighboring threads.
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21. Make sure that your socks are long enough that theres no exposed leg when sitting down.
monotopshoes.com
No one needs to see your hairy gams.
22. Your tie should always be darker than your dress shirt.
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jnormanpost.com
23. The suit jacket should be just long enough to cover your pants zipper and butt.
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scharnke.tumb lr.com
24. Your tie should JUST reach the waistband of your trousers, or be slightly shorter.
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25. For a more fashion-forward look, the pant hem should hit right at the top of your shoe.
gq.com
For a more conservative look, the pants should cover the top of the shoe and parts of the laces.
26. If you sweat a lot, wear an undershirt.
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Shutterstock
Preferably one with a deep neck so it doesnt peek through. Nothing will cheapen the appearance of a suit more than a glimpse of undershirt.
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27. Finally, go for the dimple.
versamens.com
The dimple is the little hollow beneath the knot of your tie, and it gives a slightly disheveled yet polished appearance to your finished look. Check out this handy guide on nailing the tie dimple.
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