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------------------THE GOOD COOK--------------------
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Vin de France and Cui-
sine et Vins de France ,
he also has written nu-
merous articles for other gastronomic maga-
zines in France and the United States, and is
the author of The French Menu Cookbook and
the award-wi nning Simple French Food. He
has directed cooking courses in France and
the United States, and is a member of several
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Commanderie du Bontemps de Medoc et des
Graves and Les Amities Gastronomiques lh-
ternationales. Working in London with the se-
ries editorial staff, he has been basically re-
sponsible for the step-by-step photographic
sequences in the techniques section of this
volume and has supervised the final selection
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is the author of the award-winning The Six-
Minute Souffle and Other Culinary Delights, as
well as Houte Cuisine for Your Heart's Delight,
a volume directed at those requiring low cho-
lesterol diets. She is a contributing editor to
The International Review of Food & Wine and
Working Woman magazines, and frequently
lectures about food and demonstrates cook-
ing techniques.
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Alan Duns was born in 1943 in the north of
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INTERNATIONAL CONSULTANTS
GREAT BRITAIN: Jane Grigson has written several
books about food and has been a cookery
correspondent for the London Observer since
1968. FRANCE: Michel Lemonnier, co-founder
and vice president of Les Amities Gastrono-
miques lnternalionales, is a frequent lecturer
on wine and vineyards. GERMANY: Jochen Ku-
chenbecker trained as a chef, but worked for
10 years as a food photographer in sever-
al European countries. Anne Brokemeirer is
the co-author of three cookbooks. THE NETHER-
LANDS: Hugh Jons has published two cook-
books and his recipes appear in a number of
Dutch magazines. THE UNITED STATES:
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de Lausanne in Switzerland, has worked as
chief hotel general manager and restaurant
manager in France and the U.S. He now con-
ducts his own cooking school. Shirley Sarvis,
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author and co-author of a dozen cookbooks.
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Gorden magazine, has written many books
on food and interior decoration.
Correspondents: Elisabeth Kraemer (Bonn); Margot
Hopgood, Dorothy Bacon, Lesley Col eman (London);
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Vincenzo Aloisi, Josephine du Brusle (Paris); Ann
Notonson (Rome).
Valuabl e assistance was also provided by: Jeanne Buys
(Amsterdam); Nino Lindley (Buenos Aires); Hans-Heinrich
Wellmonn, Gertroud Bellon (Homburg); Judy Aspinall,
Karin B. Pearce (london); Dione Asselin (Los Angeles);
Bono Schmid, Moria Teresa Morenco (Milan); Carolyn T.
Chubet, Miriam Hsio, Christina Lieberman (New York);
Mi chele le Boube (Paris); Mimi Murphy (Rome). The editors
ore indebted to Julio no Goldberg, Margaret C.
MacDonald, and Patri ci o McNees, writers, lor their help
with this book.
1979 Time-life lnternotionat !Nederland) B.V.
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library of Congress CIP dote, page 176.
----------------------CONTENTS----------------------
INTRODUCTION 5 The bounty of fields and gardens /Tami ng and tailoring nature I
Freshness: The basis of good eating I A complete guide to
vegetables and their preparation I Herbs: A basis for kitchen
alchemy /The repertoire of cutting techniques I Classic flavoring
mixtures I Summary of options for shopping and cooking
BOILING AND STEAMING 37 1 A matter of good timing I A maximum of water - or a
minimum? I Keeping asparagus firm I Strategies for
steaming I How to boil or steam any vegetable I A spectrum
of sauces I Five ways to produce a puree I New flavors from
judicious mixes /Whole, stuffed cabbage: A course in itself
FRYING 49 2 Suiting the method to the material I Easy steps to perfect
pan frying I Stir frying in a wok I A cri sp cake of shredded
potato I Mixing and molding croquettes I Doing justice to
French fries I Six forms for deep-fried potatoes I Choosing
the right oil or fat I Sealing in moistness
BRAISES AND STEWS 61 3 The merging of flavors I Altering the formula for different
effects I Providing the finishing touch /The advantages
of braising in wi ne I Leaf-wrapped packages of stuffing I
A vegetable filling for hollowed onions I Packing flavor
into peppers I Stewing vegetables in their own juices
BAKING, BROILING AND GRILLING 75 4 Opportunities unlimited I Baking vegetables in their skins I
Hearty fillings for tomato cases /The art of stuffing an
artichoke I Gratins: Crisp on top, moist underneath I
Turning a pudding into a souffle I Broiling: Dealing with
a broiler's intense heat I Protective measures for grilling
ANTHOLOGY OF RECIPES 95 Leaf vegetables 96 /The cabbage family 104 I Roots
and tubers 113 I Pods and seeds 128 I Mushrooms 134 I
Vegetable fruits 135 I Squashes 143 I Stalks 148 I
The onion family 153 I Artichokes 157 I
Mixed vegetables 160 I Standard preparations 165
RECIPE INDEX 168
GENERAL INDEX/GLOSSARY 171
RECIPE CREDITS 17 4
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS AND PICTURE CREDITS 176
--- -------INTRODUCTION----------
The ~ o u t y of
Fields and '"ardens
This is a book of discovery, a guide to the wonderfully rich-yet
too frequently neglected-world of vegetable cookery. Of all
foods, the produce of fields and gardens contributes by far the
most varied and abundant source of nourishment. In Asian and
Middle Eastern cooking, vegetables are prized as highly as
meats, and treated as carefully. In most of the Western world,
however, they are often literally pushed aside and served as
mere accompaniments to meat. On far too many tables, vegeta-
bles appear as boiled potatoes and overboiled greens-sodden
offerings that hold little appeal for the palate.
More often than not, such uninspired treatment stems from
lack of knowledge, both of the different vegetables themselves
and of the many cooking methods that can be applied to them.
How to deal with unfamiliar vegetables, therefore, is one aspect
ofthis book; how to prepare all vegetables in exciting and imagi-
native ways is another. Step-by-step photographs in the chap-
ters that follow teach these lessons in dozens of demonstrations:
eggplant, tomatoes, peppers and zucchini are transformed into a
fragrant ratatouille; potatoes become a rich gratin; broccoli,
cauliflower, mushrooms and artichoke bottoms are coated with
batter and deep fried to make crisp fritters.
Taming and tailoring nature
More than any other food, vegetables challenge cooks with their
prodigal variety-a variety that reflects many centuries of ex-
perimentation with plant species. Prehistoric farmers domesti-
cated edible wild plants as early as 6000 B.C. , and during the
next several millennia, great agriculture-based civilizations de-
veloped and spread throughout the ancient world. Tomb paint-
ings from early Egyptian dynasties are testimony that vegeta-
ble farming was well established in Egypt by 3000 B.C. When
Rome reached its pinnacle of glory three millennia later, cab-
bage, leeks and lettuce from Asia Minor were growing in the
city's gardens, as were cucumbers from India, peas from central
Asia and such plants of Mediterranean origin as artichokes,
asparagus, beets, celery, garlic, parsnips and turnips. The old-
est surviving European cookbook, attributed to the Roman
merchant Marcus Gavias Apicius, devotes great attention to
vegetables. (The cookbook probably was the first to offer the
unfortunate advice that green vegetables be boiled with baking
soda; the soda fixes their color, but it also gives them a brackish
taste, a fact Apicius-and his successors-did not record.)
The cornucopia now open to the vegetable cook has been at
least partly produced as a side effect of war and conquest. Api-
cius' colonizing countrymen carried seeds and roots from Rome
to northern Europe, civilizing with the plowshare as well as the
broadsword. In the Middle Ages, the Moorish occupation of
Spain and the Crusades to the Holy Land introduced to Europe
such Middle Eastern vegetables as eggplant and spinach.
The vegetable larder we know today was not completely
stocked, however, until Europeans reached the New World in
the 15th and 16th Centuries. Like their Old World counter-
parts, Indian farmers had been cultivating native plants for
thousands of years. The conquering Spanish brought home from
the Americas the seeds and roots of green beans, lima beans,
peppers, tomatoes, potatoes and that greatest of the Indian sta-
ples, corn. Several of these vegetables were only slowly accepted
(for example, the tomato, being a fruit from plants of the deadly
nightshade family, was considered poisonous); yet it is hard to
imagine modern cookery without them.
By Columbus' time generations of careful breeding by selec-
tion had greatly changed these vegetables from their wildling
ancestors. By choosing the seeds of the best plants for reproduc-
tion, the Indians had developed in their crops such useful char-
acteristics as large size and hardiness. When the Indians began
to cultivate corn around 5000 B.C., the cobs were less than
1 inch [2 lfz em.] long. By the time the Europeans arrived, careful
breeding had yielded cobs that approached modern dimensions.
European farmers knew the technique well and already had
employed selection to create many new varieties of vegetables,
as well as bigger and better versions of existing plants. In some
cases, a single plant had given rise to several varieties that now
seem scarcely related at all. Starting with the scrawny wild
cabbage, the Romans developed tender broccoli; centuries later
in northern Europe, farmers used the very same plant to create
today's cold-tolerant, tightly headed white and green cabbages,
as well as Brussels sprouts and kohlrabi.
Despite such achievements, early plant breeding and im-
provement was a haphazard affair that left much to chance and
to the mysterious green thumbs of a skillful few. In the 20th
Century, however, plant genetics has replaced the traditional
hit-and-miss methods with sophisticated breeding systems that
give quick, reliable results. In turn, the geneticists' creation
of disease-resistant, high-yielding plants has helped make
American vegetable farming into an industry whose output
would have been unimaginable not too many decades ago.
From farm to market
Only a small proportion oftoday's vegetable harvest is supplied
by the small family farms so dear to American tradition. Vege-
5
INTRODUCTION
tables are grown in every state of the union and every province
of Canada, of course, and on small farms as well as large ones.
But three quarters of the vegetables in American markets come
from the states where climate and labor costs make large-scale
farming profitable: California (which produces almost half of
the United States vegetable crop), Florida and Texas. In these
states, farming is big business indeed. Vegetable growing/ship-
ping companies control huge amounts of farmland-as much as
10,000 acres, in a few cases. The companies also buy crops from
independent farmers, and they often own packing, grading and
storage facilities for the vegetables. Total annual sales by any
one of these giants may exceed $40 million a year.
InE!vitably, farming and marketing operations like these re-
quire varieties of vegetables developed less for flavor than for
the uniform size and sturdy structure that make mechanization
and long-distance shipping possible. To ensure a maximum
yield, the land is intensively cultivated-one crop is scarcely
out of the ground before another is planted- and almost every
part of the farming process, from plowing to harvesting, is aided
by machine. The highly mechanized, multiple-crop system
means that California can harvest as many as five crops ofpota-
toes-1.5 billion pounds-each year. Other vegetables are
grown on a similar scale and they are harvested all year round.
After harvest, some vegetables-potatoes and onions, for
example-are cured by chilling or drying so that they can be
stored for several months. Most other vegetables, however,
must be moved quickly to market to minimize deterioration.
Just after they leave the field, many vegetables are put in a bath
of cold water to reduce their temperatures; asparagus, for exam-
ple, is reduced from 85 F. [30 C.] to 33 F. [0 C.]. Cooling the
vegetables slows down their life processes, in much the way an
animal's breathing slows during hibernation, and helps them
survive the days or weeks it takes to get them to market. Before
packing, the vegetables are graded according to appearance and
size. Finally, they are packed and shipped to wholesalers and
food brokers in fleets of refrigerated trucks.
Large-scale, multiple-crop production ensures that most
vegetables are readily available throughout the year; however,
some vegetables, raised in smaller crops, may be harder to find.
The annual artichoke crop, for example, amounts to only 70
million pounds, compared to the two billion pounds of cabbages
sold each year, so artichokes will always be rarer than cabbages.
One reason for their scarcity is that artichokes are such sensi-
tive plants; almost all American artichokes are grown in the
18 square miles around Castroville, California, a locale with a
climate perfect for them.
Sometimes tradition rather than climate determines where
specialty crops are grown: mushrooms, which are raised in win-
dowless sheds, could be farmed anywhere, but more than half of
the mushrooms sold in the United States still are grown in
Pennsylvania, where Quaker settlers founded the industry in
the 19th Century. Most shallots, the aristocrats of the onion
family, are grown in the bayou country near New Orleans,
where French settlers began raising them before the American
Revolution. Some vegetables that require laborious cultivation
by hand are not grown commercially at all in the United States.
6
A case in point is Belgian endive: each plant must be kept care-
fully packed in sand as it grows to ensure that it stays white and
smooth; almost all the Belgian endive in American markets is
imported from Europe. Other imports-tomatoes and cucum-
bers from Mexico, for example-supplement mass-produced
American vegetables during seasons of low output.
Freshness: The basis of good eating
The cook pays a price for the logistical marvels that make so
many vegetables available all year round-and the cost is mea-
sured in quality as well as money. When it comes to vegetables,
it is impossible to overstate the virtue of freshness. "Vegeta-
bles," wrote the 19th Century London gourmet Dr. William Kit-
chiner in The Cook's Oracle," ... are more tender, juicy and full
of flavour just before they are quite full grown: freshness is their
chief value and excellence, and I should as soon think of roasting
an Animal alive-as of boiling a Vegetable after it is dead."
A vegetable remains alive for some time after harvest-a
few days in the case ofleaves, a few months in the case of pota-
toes. But the plants begin to lose nutrients and flavor the mo-
ment they leave the ground. Clearly, then, the closer you are to
the farm where t he vegetable has been grown, the better the
vegetable will be. As Ecclesiastes reminds us, "To every thing
there is a season," and it is a foolish cook who ignores the dic-
tum. Try to buy local vegetables during their natural seasons,
and purchase them at farmers' markets or roadside stands or
from small greengrocers with nearby suppliers. Local vegeta-
bles will be incomparably better in flavor and quality than the
ones you see wrapped in plastic at the supermarket. No clearer
example can be found than the mass-produced winter tomato.
Bred for hardiness, picked when green, then artificially ripened
with the aid of ethylene gas, it bears little similarity to the juicy
red globes picked in high summer.
Many people, disenchanted with supermarket vegetables,
grow their own. A plot of land only 1,500 square feet [139.5
sq. m.] can supply more than enough summer vegetables for a
family of four, and a home garden is the best possible assurance
of quality: the vegetable var ieties can be chosen for flavor rath-
er than hardiness. Best of all, the vegetables can be picked at the
instant they are ripe and ready for cooking.
For other people, frozen or canned vegetables are the solu-
tion to problems of seasonal quality-and a way to save prep-
aration time. But these are stand-ins at best. Before freezing,
most vegetables are blanched-parboiled briefly to stop en-
zyme activity that might alter flavor or cause discoloration. But
blanching can damage vegetables' texture. As part of the can-
ning process, vegetables are cooked-frequently overcooked-
in their containers.
You can avoid some ofthese liabilities, of course, by freezing
or canning vegetables yourself when they are in season. Even
so, some vegetables simply cannot be preserved without damag-
ing their texture, taste and color. The structure of vegetable
fruits such as tomatoes and eggplant breaks down during freez-
ing, resulting in an unappetizing mush. Green beans and peas
change color in canning. Even with the most suitable candi-
dates, there is still a world of difference between fresh and pre-
served vegetables. Although canned tomatoes provide color and
flavor for stews and braises, the appearance of vine-ripened
tomatoes in seasonal abundance reminds all cooks that no sub-
stitute, however useful, can compare with the real thing. By
using vegetables in their season, you can make your cooking
taste better and be better for you-and nature will ensure that
your menus have the vir tue of variety.
The pages that follow provide a complete course in vegetable
cookery. The volume begins with a series of illustrated guides to
different types of vegetables, from leaves and roots to artichokes
and mushrooms. Besides explaining the qualities and uses of
individual vegetables, these guides offer information about how
to shop for, store and prepare each type. In addition, the guides
show how to prepare vegetables for cooking, demonstrating
techniques as simple as peeling garlic and as complex as turn-
ing artichoke bottoms. The chart on pages 34-35 summarizes
the seasonal availability of each vegetable as well as appropri-
ate cooking methods, and a guide on pages 26-28 describes the
use of different herbs.
The range of vegetables discussed is immense, but it is not
comprehensive. Vegetables that are rarely, if ever, cooked
-radishes, for example-are omitted from the illustrated
guides, as are such preserved forms of vegetables as sauerkraut.
Because of the ceaseless development of varieties, you may
find-or may grow yourself-a vegetable slightly different
from the ones described here; nevertheless, the guides' informa-
tion about its relatives will almost certainly apply.
Storehouses of Nutrition
Immediately following the guides are chapters that explain
such basic methods of vegetable cookery as boiling and steam-
ing, frying, braising and baking. These chapters also demon-
strate a host of more specialized techniques, from stuffing an
artichoke to creating sauces that may accompany vegetables to
t he table. Finally, the second half of the book offers an interna-
tional anthology of vegetable recipes, chosen from the best ever
published. In combination, the two halves of this volume invite
you to make more of your vegetables, to bring them from the
edge of the plate to the center of the meal.
This is not a vegetarian cookbook, although vegetarians
will find it useful. Where meat is used, it appears as an impor-
tant flavoring element, but not as the main part of the dish. If
you are cooking a formal dinner, you will find many vegetable
dishes here that deserve to be served as separate courses, from
simple fresh green beans boiled perfectly and buttered, to more
elaborate gratins that boast layers of vegetables beneath a crisp
golden crust made with bread crumbs, cream or a sauce. Less
traditionally, you will be able to make up a main course from
several different vegetable dishes, perhaps serving a puree with
a braise or a stew, or combining a pudding with a mixed saute.
The demonstrations and the recipes in this book do not, of
course, cover every possible method of cooking a vegetable or
every vegetable you might encounter, but they will teach you
the rules-and the reasons behind the rules-that govern the
cooking of all vegetable dishes. After that, the way is clear to
your own improvisation and invention.
The importance of vegetables as guard-
ians of good health has always been rec-
ognized by folklore and primitive medi-
cine. Early on, doctors advised patients
that vegetables would help to keep a
balance between the "humours" of the
body, and mothers nagged children to
eat up their greens long before anyone
had heard of the science of nutrition.
mins, a large group needed to extract
energy from carbohydrates. The only vi-
tamin not found in any vegetable is
B12; it must come from such animal
foods as meats, fish and milk.
it needs for its growth and repair; eight
or nine, however, must come from the
proteins we eat.
No single vegetable contains all of
these critical acids, as meat, fish and
eggs do," but most vegetable proteins in-
clude at least some of them, and if you
eat several vegetables together, certain
combinations-green beans and corn,
for example-can provide the complete
complement of amino acids. Combining
a variety of vegetables with even small
quantities of meat, eggs, milk or cheese
is another way to obtain these vital mo-
lecular building blocks.
Modern biochemists have found that
in addition to supplying energy-giving
carbohydrates, vegetables provide al-
most all of the specialized vitamins and
minerals needed to keep human beings
in good health. Green leaves-whether
from cabbages or such leaf vegetables as
spinach-are rich sources of vitamins
A and C; vitamin A is essential for
eyes and skin, while vitamin C is neces-
sary to maintain connective tissue. Cal-
cium, important for the bone structure
of growing children, and iron, a neces-
sary component of blood, are also pro-
vided by these plants.
Other green veget ables-like kale,
peas and beans-include some B vita-
Roots and tubers, often considered
mere carbohydrate fillers, are also rich
in vitamins. One medium-sized baked
potato can supply a third or more of the
body' s daily requirement of vitamin C,
as well as some of the B vitamins. Sweet
potatoes are similarly nourishing and
provide vitamin A. Carrots are another
good source of vitamin A: the compound
carotene, a basis of the vitamin, was
named after this vegetable.
Many vegetables are also important
sources of proteins: peas and beans con-
tain the highest proportion, but pota-
toes also have a significant amount, as
do green leaves and some members of
the cabbage family, especially Brussels
sprouts. All proteins consist of long, in-
tricately folded chains of lesser mole-
cules called amino acids. The human
body can make most of the amino acids
To get the best from your vegetables,
there is no need to turn your kitchen
into a laboratory. When it comes to com-
binations of ingredients, food science
has taken a long time to catch up with
what good cooks have always known.
Green beans in egg sauce (recipe, page
129) and baked cauliflower and tomato
puree (recipe, page 112) are only two of
many traditional dishes that anticipat-
ed the modern nutritionist.
7
INTRODUCTION
8
Leaves: Unsung Candidates for Cooking
Greens, including those grown specially
for their leaves, but also the tops of root
vegetables and the leaves of grapevines,
are perhaps the least understood and
least appreciated of vegetables. Spinach
remains childhood's bane. Lettuce, sorrel
and Belgian endive are usually reserved
for salads only. Kale, collards and mus-
tard greens get boiled to a frazzle. Turnip
and beet greens are simply discarded and
grape leaves are left to wither on vines.
Yet all these greens are delicious when
properly cooked and, as a group, they of-
fer as great a range oftastes, from sweet
to bitter, and textures, from crunchy to
soft, as any other vegetable.
Greens are also among the most widely
available of fresh vegetables. The leafy
types of greens, which grow best in mod-
erately cool weather, are harvested all
the year round in one part or another of
the United States or Canada. Only fresh
grapevine leaves and sorrel leaves are
likely to be rarities. Most of the commer-
cial crop of vine leaves is harvested in
California and sold preserved in brine;
most sorrel is sold in ethnic markets from
July to October.
....
Belgian endive
o How to shop: Choose brightly colored
and crisp leaves; they ar e the young and
tender ones. Avoid plants with bruised or
excessively dirty leaves; they have been
improperly handled. And spotted, yellow
or wilting plants are old ones. Their
leaves turn yellow because they are too
weak to produce t he green pigment chlo-
rophyll. (The exception is beet greens,
which turn red at the tips when they
age.) Kale, mustard greens and collard
greens show other signs of having been
left in the field too long: woody stems and
leaves that are webbed with thick, coarse
veins. Coarse-stemmed, straggly spinach
plants should also be avoided; they will
be tough and bitter.
If possible, buy leaf vegetables that are
displayed on refrigerated racks, where
low temperatures discourage the growth
of decay bacteria. And, of course, buy un-
packaged leaves so that you can examine
them when you buy.
o Storing: Because all leaves are short-
lived, they are best when grown locally
and cooked as soon as possible after they
are picked. If you must store greens, keep
them for no longer than two days; after
that, flavor and texture suffer and much
Stemming and Washing Spinach
of the vegetables' rich supplies of vita-
mins and minerals have disappeared.
Store leaves in a way that preserves
their moisture and nutrients. Keep them
in the coldest part of your refrigerator-
usually one of the lower shelves. Do not
cleanse them before stor age: too much
moisture encourages bacteria. If you en-
close the leaves in a plastic bag, t heir
own moisture will create a humid envi-
ronment that will help to preserve crisp-
ness. But punch holes in the bag with a
dinner fork so t hat air can circulate.
o Preparation: Wash leaves thoroughly
in cold water immediately before cook-
ing. These vegetables tend to retain grit
from the ground they were grown in, and
some, such as spinach, may require two
or three washings (below, center) . Trim
off any bruised section, but remove as lit-
t le of the leaf as possible; the outer leaves
of lettuce and Belgian endive contain
much of the flavor of the plants and al-
most all the nutrients. Lettuce stems
should be trimmed and the bitter cores of
Belgian endive should be removed (be-
low, right). The tough stems of spinach,
Rinsing off grit. Fold each leaf in half so that its glossy upper
surfaces touch. Grasp the stem firmly and pull it toward the leaf tip
(left) sa that it peels off the leaf. Plunge the stripped leaves into a
bawl of cold water and pump them up and down to wash them
(right), changi ng the water twice. Then shake off the excess
water. Do not use a colander: the grit will resettl e onto the leaves.
sorrel, kale, collards and mustard greens
should be removed (below, left) . Turnip
and beet greens should be cut off 2 or 3
inches [5 or 8 em.] above the top of the
root and any tough stems discarded.
Washing and trimming are almost the
only preparation leafy greens require.
The exception is pickled or fresh (if you
can get them) grapevine leaves, used for
enveloping meat or vegetable fillings.
These must be rinsed with boiling water,
to make fresh leaves supple and to re-
move the brine from preserved leaves.
Lettuce may also be used to enclose
various fillings for braising or baking,
but both lettuce and Belgian endive are
delicious when cooked by t hemselves.
Like all leafy greens, they should be
boiled, steamed or sauteed quickly and
gently to bring out their subtle flavors
without ruining. their delicate textures.
Never add baking soda to the cooking wa-
ter to keep leaves bright colored; this will
give them a brackish taste and make
them mushy. The way to preserve color,
flavor and texture is to keep cooking time
at a minimum. Then your leafy vegeta-
bles will not only stay bright, but also
will taste as fresh as they look.
Coring Belgian Endive
Cutting out bitterness. Remove
the base of Belgian endive's bitter,
conical core by inserting the point of a
small knife about 1 inch [2 Y2 em.] into the
plant's base and cutting around the
core with a circular motion.
9
INTRODUCTION
Chinese cabbage
The Cabbage Family: Pungent and Plentiful
Cabbage plants produce crisp, pungent
vegetables, but the vegetables come from
different parts of the plants. Head cab-
bages-the red, green and Savoy vari-
eties as well as t heir miniature version,
Brussels sprouts-are the tightly rolled
leaves of the plant; cylindrical Chinese
cabbages are more loosely packed leaves.
With kohlrabi (German for "cabbage-
turnip"), the bulbous plant stem is the
part used. Broccoli consists of green buds
on a fleshy stalk; and a cauliflower head
actually is a compressed flower.
Most cabbages are available the year
round. Kohlrabi, however, is most plenti-
ful in summer and fall.
o How to shop: Good round-headed cab-
bages, including Brussels sprouts, ap-
pear tightly curled; they feel hard and
weighty for their size. Their outer leaves
are opaque and their cores white, not yel-
low. Chinese cabbages should be long
and straight, pale green and very crisp.
Broccoli buds should be tightly closed;
the tips may be tinged with blue or pur-
10
ple, but not with yellow-a sign of age. A
cauliflower should be an unblemished,
snow- or cream-white; its florets should
be tightly pressed together. Kohlrabi is
young and tender when the bulb diame-
ter is less than 3 inches [8 em.].
o Storing: Do not wash cabbages before
storage-extra moisture will hasten de-
cay. If you wrap cabbages in perforated
plastic bags for storage in the refrigera-
tor, they will keep for as long as a week.
o Preparation: All cabbages should be
washed and trimmedjust before cooking.
Cut off the exposed stem of Chinese cab-
bage; slice head cabbage in half and cut
out the tough, wedge-shaped inner stem.
(Save the core to eat raw as a snack. )
Then shred the leaves of both cabbage
types (page 30) for boiling, steaming,
braising or sauteing. If you want to stuff
a head cabbage and cook it whole (pages
46-47), trim off any exposed stem; do not
remove the core, which holds the leaves
together. When trimming red cabbage,
use a stainless-steel knife; the pigment
Kohlrabi
in red cabbage interacts chemically with
carbon steel and turns the leaves an
unappetizing blue.
For Brussels sprouts, remove the loose
outer leaves and incise the stems (oppo-
site, far left) . Cauliflower may be kept
whole if you remove its tough stem ( oppo-
site, center), but it will cook more quickly
if you separate it into florets. Broccoli
should be divided into florets and the
stems peeled to ensure that they cook as
quickly as the tender buds. Either slice
t he stems into 2-inch [5-cm.] pieces or
make several shallow, lengthwise slits in
whole, peeled stems. Kohlrabi needs only
to be scrubbed or peeled; its leaves can be
cooked with t he bulb to itensify its fl avor.
Only kohlrabi and Chinese cabbage,
however, are mild tasting. The other cab-
bages are relatively strong flavored and
become sulfurous in cooking. The rule is
to keep the cooking time brief and, when
boiling or steaming them, to use celery
leaves, ribs or seeds in the pot to tone
down their odor.
Trimming Brussels Sprouts
Slitting the stem. Peel off any
wilted or yellowing leaves and shave off
the stem end with a sharp knife. Then
cut a shallow cross in the bottom of the
stem (above) so that it will cook as
quickly as the more tender leaves.
Preparing Whole Cauliflower
Cutting out the core. Tear off all
green outer leaves except those clinging
to the florets. Cut off the protruding
stem end and remove the woody core by
cutting around the stem with a small
knife angled toward the center of the
head (above). Then pull off the leaves
that were loosened by the coring.
Peeling Broccoli Stems
Removing tough skin. Trim off
the woody base of the stal k. Then cut the
tough skin away from the stalk by
running a paring knife from the bottom
up to the florets(above). Keep your
hand close to the tip of the knife and
guide the blade with your thumb so
that you do not cut too deeply.
11
INTRODUCTION
Roots and Tubers: Dense-fleshed and Sturdy
Hardy vegetables that grow under the
ground develop very dense flesh, which is
sugar-filled in immature vegetables and
starchy in older ones. The group includes
such familiar roots as carrots, beets, tur-
nips, rutabagas and parsnips, less com-
mon roots such as celeriac and salsify,
and tubers such as potatoes, sweet pota-
toes and Jerusalem artichokes.
Potatoes, beets, turnips and carrots
are routinely harvested when young and
sweet. Most other roots and tubers are
left in the field to mature so that their
skins will toughen, making them easy to
store and ship. Mature specimens are
most plentiful in fall and winter.
o How to shop: Choose potatoes accord-
ing to the way you plan to cook them.
New potatoes have waxy flesh best suited
to boiling, steaming or frying; they do not
have the dry, mealy texture successful
baking requires. Among mature pota-
toes, long russets-cylindrical potatoes
12
with reddish-brown skins-are relative-
ly dry-fleshed and are ideal for baking or
frying; they tend to fall apart if boiled.
Long white, round white and round red
potatoes, on the other hand, should be
boiled or steamed; they are very moist
and acquire a sticky texture when baked.
Any potato you buy should be firm. It
should not have sprouting eyes, a sign of
a flabby interior; soft black spots, which
indicate rot; or green areas, which taste
bitter and may be slightly toxic.
Choose sweet potatoes according to the
degree of sweetness and dryness you like.
They range in skin color from light tan
to brownish-red. In general, the darker
the skin, the sweeter and moister the
flesh. (Dark-skinned sweet potatoes of-
ten are erroneously labeled yams.) Any
sweet potato should be firm and smooth.
Turnips and beets should be small-
no larger than 2 inches [5 em.] in diame-
ter. Larger ones probably will be fibrous
or tough. Carrots vary in size depending
on their variety; older ones have a clearly
Sweet potato
Turnips
Parsnips
defined, woody core that should be re-
moved before cooking.
Parsnips are broad-shouldered at any
age, but young and tender only when
about 8 inches [20 em.] in length. They
should be free of gashes and wet, soft
spots. Look for smooth, heavy rutabagas
without punctures from careless han-
dling. (Size does not affect their quality.)
Jerusalem artichokes come in many siz-
es, usually less than 5 inches [13 em.]
long, but are always gnarled and knobby.
Buy only those that feel hard. Salsify
should be smoothly tapered, firm and
about 6 inches [15 em.] long. Celeriac
(also known as celery root) is globular
and its white flesh is covered with a
rough, brownish skin; if it is larger than
a man's fist, it is old and woody.
o Storing: Store roots and tubers un-
washed; excess moisture encourages de-
cay. Cut off beet, carrot, parsnip and tur-
nip leaves so that they will not take
moisture from t he roots. Be sure to leave
stems at least 2 inches [5 em. ] long on
beets, lest color ooze out as they cook.
J erusalem artichokes, refrigerated in
perforated plastic bags, will keep for t wo
days. Beets, carrots, celeriac, parsnips
and turnips will last one week. Salsify
will keep for three to four days, but its
oyster-like flavor diminishes daily; try to
cook it the day you buy it.
Potatoes, sweet potatoes and rutaba-
gas should be stored outside t he refrig-
erator. Under refrigeration, potatoes de-
velop an unpleasant sweetness and sweet
potatoes develop hard cores. White pota-
toes, rutabagas and sweet potatoes will
Three Basic Peeling Techniques
Removing thin skins. Use a
vegetable peeler to pare strips Ys inch
[3 mm.] deep from parsnips(above),
carrots, potatoes or salsi fy.
keep for a week at room temperature, but
all of them except new potatoes last up to
two months if stored at 50 F. [10 C.].
Keep white potatoes in the dark; direct
light develops chlorophyll, which turns
them green and bitter.
o Preparation: To preserve vitamins, all
root s and tubers should be prepared im-
mediately before cooking. They usually
are left in their skins for baking and
peeled for other types of cooking. But
there are exceptions. Waxed rutabagas
must be peeled; otherwise, the wax used
to help preserve them will flake off dur-
ing cooking. Delicate-skinned new pota-
toes and carrots should be scrubbed but
Removing thick skins. Wi th a
small , sharp knife, slice through the stem
end of a rutabaga (above) or a
turnip. Then cut off the skin in strips
about %inch [% em.] deep.
Cutting out the woody core. Trim off the ends and peel a
carrot; then, with a sharp knife, slice it in half lengthwise (left) . The
pale, fibrous core should be clearly visible. Insert a small knife
beneath the core at the thicker end of the carrot and pry the core
free along the entire length of the carrot (right).
left unpeeled. A beet should never be
scrubbed hard or peeled; any break in the
skin allows color to escape during cook-
ing. Jerusalem artichokes are scrubbed
(bottom, right) but left unpeeled; celeriac
and salsify usually are peeled.
To keep peeled potatoes white before
cooking, put them in cold water; put sal-
sify, celeriac or Jerusalem artichokes in
acidulated water (bottom, right) .
Other preparations include removing
t ough cores from carrots and parsnips
(bottom, left), cutting green spots from
mature potatoes and removing belts of
skin from new potatoes to keep them
from bursting during cooking.
Pe.eling celeriac. Use a medium-
sized, sharp-bladed knife to pare off Ys-
inch [3-mm.] strips of the barkl ike skin.
Cut out any places on the celeriac where
the skin is deeply pitted.
Cleaning Jerusalem Artichokes
Scrubbing the skins. Clean each
artichoke wi th a stiff brush under running
water (above) . Then plunge it into a
solution of 1 teaspoon [5 mi.] of lemon
juice to 1 quart [1 li ter] of water.
13
INTRODUCTION
Pods and Seeds: The Natural Sweetness of Youth
14
Seeds, edible pods and young shoots-
categories that encompass respectively
lima and broad (or fava) beans, corn and
peas; green and wax beans and snow
peas; and bean sprouts-are sweet and
tender only if they are harvested when
they are immature and full of sugar. If
they are to stay sweet, they must be
cooked soon after they are picked-be-
fore their sugar turns to starch and their
tastes and textures deteriorate.
Bean sprouts are sold all year long at
health food stores and in some supermar-
kets, and broad beans appear primarily
in specialty markets during the summer
months. The other seeds and pods are
more readily available. Peas, corn and
beans will be at their best, however,
when they are locally grown.
o How to shop: Choose the smallest and
brightest-colored seeds and pods you can
find. Those that are wrinkled, dry, flabby
or yellowed are overage; ones with thick,
fibrous pods also are old.
The tenderest green beans and yellow
wax beans are only 1.4 inch [6 mm.] wide
and 4 inches [10 em.] long. Crisp, fresh
ones will snap when bent.
Lima beans are available as the small,
so-called "butter limas" or as the larger
"potato"-type beans-plump, flat ovals
with green or greenish-white skins. Good
limas and broad beans are encased in vel-
vety, dark green pods, which should be
tightly closed and bulging.
Good peas are round, shiny and come
in smooth, bright green pods. Snow peas
are eaten for their pods. The best are a
bright green and so thin that you can see
the outline of the immature peas within.
For the best corn, buy ears that were
picked that very morning-depend on a
reliable grocer for this or buy corn at a
farm stand. The cobs should be at least 6
inches [15 em.] long under green husks;
dry or yellowed husks indicate that the
corn is old or damaged. The stem ends of
the cobs should be moist and the hairlike
silk a pale greenish-white. The silk tas-
sel at the tip should be brown and brittle.
Examine the kernels; they may range in
color from white to bright yellow, accord-
ing to variety, and should be plump and
firm enough to offer some resistance to
pressure. When you pierce a kernel, it
should spurt thick white liquid.
Bean sprouts, whether they come from
alfalfa or from mung beans, should be
cream-colored or white, and crisp with
moist tips. Alfalfa sprouts are best when
they are approximately 1 inch [2'12 em. ]
long; mung bean sprouts ideally should
be about 3 inches [8 em.] in length.
o Storing: Keep lima and broad beans,
as well as peas, unwashed and in their
pods. Refrigerated in perforated plastic
bags, they will keep for one to two days.
Stored similarly, green or wax beans,
bean sprouts and snow peas keep for two
days. Cook corn as soon as you buy it.
o Preparation: Rinse both green beans
and wax beans in cold water and cut their
stem and tip ends off. If you buy green
beans with strings, r emove them the
same way you would string snow peas
(below, left); a green bean, however, has
one string, not two. Snow peas and green
or wax beans usually are left whole for
cooking, but the beans may be cut diag-
onally into 22-inch [6-cm.] lengths.
Peas as well as lima and broad beans
are shelled as shown below at right; in
addition, broad beans are covered by a
protective membrane that must be re-
moved. Bean sprouts need only rinsing.
Corn may be roasted in its husk (page
94). For all other cooking methods, cut off
the stem end of the cob and any dried
area on the tip, then pull off husk and
silk. Corn may be boiled or roasted on the
cob, or the kernels may be sliced off for
frying, baking or stewing.
Preparing Snow Peas
Removing strings. Slice through
the stem end of eoch pod, but do not
sever the string. Pull the stem end and
attached string down the pod. Repeat on
the opposite end for the other string.
Mushrooms: Earthy Delicacies
The mushroom cultivated in this coun-
try is the champignon de Paris; its col-
or is white, off-white or tan, and its cap
size ranges from % inch to 3 inches [2 to
8 em.]. Its flavor is always subtle and
reminiscent of freshly turned loam.
Mushrooms, cultivated indoors, are
available all year. All are full of mois-
ture and absorb it readily, a fact to be
kept in mind during preparation and
cooking. All contain protein and be-
come tough if overcooked.
o How to shop: Pick out mushrooms
with smooth, unblemished skins. The
caps should be closed so that no gills
show around the stems.
o Storing: Mushrooms should be re-
frigerated unwashed and loosely cov-
ered; they will last one to two days.
o Preparation: Cut off the bottoms of
mushroom stems. Then wipe off dirt
with a damp cloth. Do not soak them-
they will get soggy. Mushrooms are
grown in sterilized soil and require lit-
tle cleaning. Mushrooms cooked alone
need no additional preparation. Those
cooked with other foods must be pre-
vented from releasing water. If a recipe
calls for chopped mushrooms, wring
the raw, chopped mushrooms in a towel
to extract their liquid. If a recipe calls
for whole mushrooms, saute them be-
forehand to evaporate liquid.
Shelling and Peeling Broad Beans
Freeing the beans. Pop open each pod by pressi ng the
seam near the stem end; then run your thumbnail down the seam to
split it and expose the beans. Then, again using your thumbnail ,
split the protective skin on each broad bean lengthwise so that you
can pull away the skin in one piece. Discord the skins.
Tan mushrooms
Offwhite mushrooms
15
INTRODUCTION
Vegetable Fruits: A Summer Potpourri
In botanical terms, a tomato, an eggplant
or a pepper is a fruit; a cucumber is a
squash and an okra is a pod. For shopping
and cooking purposes, however, these
vegetables form one group. All are warm-
weather plants that reach their peak in
flavor and availability during the sum-
mer. All except okra are available the
year round, but t hey are more difficult to
transport successfully than other vegeta-
bles: those that are shipped never taste
as good as produce that has been locally
grown and naturally ripened.
o How to shop: Tomatoes, in particular,
suffer in the course of a long haul. Be-
cause ripe fruit decays quickly, most to-
matoes to be shipped are picked while
green, t hen artificially ripened without
sunlight; they tend to be tasteless and
mealy, and usually are a lighter red than
garden stock. Among them your best
choice will be those labeled "greenhouse"
or "hothouse"-they have been picked
when almost ripe and thus have more
taste than other out-of-season tomatoes.
Buy those delicacies from a reliable gro-
16
cer since inferior tomatoes are occasion-
ally mislabeled.
Choose tomato varieties according to
the way you plan to cook them: unrip-
ened green tomatoes are suited to pan
frying; tiny cherry tomatoes are a conve-
nient size for broiling whole (page 93);
pear-shaped plum tomatoes, which have
thick, pulpy flesh, are best for sauces;
and smooth, round, standard tomatoes
are good for stuffing or broiling.
Buy hard, dark green cucumbers; yel-
low or flabby ones are old and may be
bitter. Cucumbers range in size from va-
rieties 3 inches [8 em.] long-mainly for
pickling-to large ones 10 to 12 inches
[25 to 30 em.] long, used mainly in sal-
ads. For cooking as a single serving, the
best size is 6 to 7 inches [15 to 18 em.].
The best eggplants are a glossy, uni-
form purple. When the eggplants grow
old, their skins turn dull and tinged with
brown, and the seeds inside become hard
and the flesh flabby.
Peppers, including the frying variety,
change from green to red as they ripen,
and at the same time their sweetness in-
creases. They taste good at either stage,
but ripe ones deteriorate quickly. Any
pepper should have a shiny skin, free
from holes or punctures and from soft or
black decaying spots.
Buy okra when it is so young and firm
that a pod will snap when you bend it.
The green pods should be 2 to 4 inches [5
to 10 em.] long; larger ones can be woody.
o Storing: All these vegetables deterio-
rate quickly in extreme cold and need hu-
midity to prevent them from drying out.
On the other hand, they will rapidly de-
cay if kept too warm. The best storage
temperature is about 50 F. [10 C.]. You
may store most of these vegetables in the
refrigerator, although its temperature is
colder than desirable. Refrigerated okra
and eggplants last only one or two days,
peppers and cucumbers up to five days.
Ideally, tomatoes should not be kept in
the refrigerator at all. Chilling diminish-
es their flavor. Ripe fruit can, however,
be refrigerated for up to five days, if nec-
essary. Underripe tomatoes will ripen
best when they are wrapped in newspa-
per or a brown bag and kept at a tempera-
ture of65 F. [20 C.].
o Preparation: All of these vegetables
require some preparat ion just prior to
cooking, usually to remove their skin,
seeds or excess moisture. Tomatoes for
frying should be cored, then rinsed with
cold water. If you plan to stuff and bake a
tomato, hollow it as shown on page 78. If
you plan to braise or stew a tomato, peel
and seed it as shown below.
Most cucumbers are coated with wax to
Trimming Okra
Slicing the pods. Trim the tip of
each okra pod and slice off the stem end.
Do not pierce the sac inside the pod
lest the liquid escape during cooking.
Peeling and Seeding Tomatoes
l
Loosening the skin. Cut conical
plugs from the stem ends. Cut crosses at
the base. Put the tomatoes in boiling
water for 10 to 30 seconds(obove) .
preserve them and to prevent the loss
of moisture. For this reason, cucumbers
should be skinned with a small knife or
vegetable peeler before cooking. Many
recipes require that cucumbers be seed-
ed; to do so, slice them in halflengthwise
and use a spoon to scoop out the seeds.
Before cooking, cucumbers and egg-
plants will benefit from a salt marinade
that draws out excess moisture and bitter
juices: salt the peeled pieces and let them
drain in a colander for 30 minutes. Then
pat them dry, rinsing them with water if
a strong salt taste is evident.
Remove the seeds and pith of peppers
as shown below. If the peppers have been
l
Splitting the pepper. Slice
through pepper crevices on opposite
sides, from the base up to the stem.
Pull the halves apart; the stem and the
seed pod will cling to one side.
2
Removing the skin. Drai n and cool
the tomatoes. Slide the knife under one
edge of the cross cut and strip off the skin
in secti ons, working toward the stem end.
waxed (they will feel extra slippery),
they should also be peeled. To do so, char
them over a gas flame or under a broiler.
When the skins are blackened, place the
peppers in a paper bag where humidity
can soften their skins. You will then be
able to peel them with your fingers.
An okra pod contains a liquid-filled
sac. If it is pierced or cut, the sac releases
a glutinous sap that is a natural thicken-
er for soups or stews. If the okra is to be
eaten alone, do not pierce the sac or over-
cook the pods; the freed sap inside would
give the vegetable a slimy texture. Pre-
pare okra for cooking as shown below.
2
Removing the seed pod. Slide
your finger under the pod clinging to one
pepper half to snap it out in one piece.
Use a knife to trim any ri dges of
membrane from each pepper half.
3
Squeezing out seeds. Halve
each tomato, cutting perpendicular to
the stem end. Gently squeeze each
half to remove seeds and juice.
17
INTRODUCTION
The Squashes: From Minuscule to Maiestic
All squashes are gourds: fleshy vegeta-
bles with seeds on the inside and protec-
tive rinds outside. In summer varieties
-such as zucchini, yellow crooknecks
and the scalloped squash often called pat-
typan-the rinds and seeds are tender
and edible because the squashes are har-
vested when they are immature. Winter
varieties, however, are harvested when
they are mature. These acorn, butternut,
buttercup and Hubbard squashes, as well
as pumpkins and the less well-known
spaghetti squash have tough seeds and
rinds. Chayote, or mirliton, is a pear-
shaped squash with a thin, delicate, pale
green skin, but a large, inedible seed.
The seasonal names give a clue to a
squash's availability: winter ones are
in plentiful supply from October through
February, summer ones from April until
August. Spaghetti squash is plentiful
from August through February, chayote
from October through April.
18
o How to shop: Look for small summer
squashes, which will prove sweet and
tender. Zucchini and yellow squashes
should be 3 to 6 inches [8 to 15 em.] long,
scalloped squash no more than 4 inches
[10 em.] in diameter. The rind should be
easy to pierce and the squash should feel
firm and heavy for its size.
Winter squashes should feel hard and
have no cracks or blemishes. Color indi-
cates ripeness: Hubbard or acorn squash
should be blue-gray or green; buttercup
squash should be dark green with lighter
stripes or flecks. All three will develop
orange patches as they ripen. Butternut
squash should be entirely tan, and pump-
kins bright orange. Chayote skins vary
in color from white to green: some are
covered with prickly hairs.
o Storing: Refrigerated in plastic bags,
summer squashes and chayotes will keep
for three to four days. The thick rinds of
winter squashes make it possible to store
them for up to three months in net bags
hung in a cool, dry place.
Yellow crooknecks
o Preparation: Before cooking any sum-
mer squash, rinse, trim and slice or halve
it; do not peel it unless a recipe requires
peeling. Many recipes specify that you
remove excess moisture. To do this, salt
the exposed flesh and let it drain in a col-
ander for 30 minutes. Then rinse, and dry
it with paper towels; rinse again if its
taste is too salty. Summer squashes usu-
ally are boiled, steamed or pan fried. A
pattypan (opposite) makes an attractive
container for stuffing.
To prepare any winter variety except
spaghetti squash, halve it or cut off its
stem end and remove its seeds and fibers
(opposite, far right) . Then bake it in its
skin or cut it into smaller pieces and peel
them for boiling, steaming or pan frying.
To prepare a spaghetti squash, wipe it,
pierce it to let steam escape, then bake,
boil or steam it in its skin. Then halve it,
remove the seeds and fibers, and use a
fork to twist out its long strands of flesh.
Hollowing Scalloped Squash
Making a cavity. Place the
squash, with its flat si de down, on a work
surface and use a paring knife to cut a
small cone of rind and fl esh from the
top. With a melon bailer, scoop out
enough seeds and flesh (above) to
make a cavity for stuffing.
Cleaning a Winter Squash
l
Splitting the squash. Snap off the
stem and place the squash - here, an
acorn - on a cutting board. Work the
blade of a large chef's knife into the shell
between two lengthwise ridges. Wi th
a mallet, strike the spine of the knife near
the handle to force the blade into the
squash. Stri ke until the squash splits.
Spaghetti squash
2
Seeding the squash. With a large
metal spoon, scoop the seeds and fibers
from each squash half (above). Then
scrape the flesh to remove any clinging
fibers. Discard the fibers, but dry the
seeds on paper towels and saute them in
oil for 5 minutes to make a snack.
19
INTRODUCTION
Stalks: Texture plus Succulence
Stalk vegetables are plant stems that are
high in cellulose fibers, the strings t hat
are necessary to hold the stalks erect un-
der the weight of their leaves and buds.
For use as vegetables, all stalks should
be young and almost all must be trimmed
of their tough fibers, which cannot be
softened by cooking.
Different stalk vegetables are avail-
able at different times of t he year. As-
paragus can be bought fresh from Febru-
ary t hrough June and from September
through December; celery is available all
year round. Anise-fl avored fennel is most
obtainable in the fall and early winter.
Delicate, spinach-like Swiss chard and
sweet-tasting bok choy are both charac-
terized by large leaves, often treated as
separate vegetables. Swiss chard is plen-
tiful from June t hrough October, bok
choy year round.
o How to shop: In general, stalk vegeta-
bles should be firm, clean and free of
signs of age or improper handling. Vege-
tables with coarsely striated stalks are
old and pithy; those with limp, rubbery
20
stalks and wilted, yellowed or browned
leaves have dried out and lost flavor.
Slippery brown spots on the leaves indi-
cate that these vegetables have been
overchilled and will be tasteless.
In particular, choose young asparagus
with tightly closed buds, rejecting spears
with open or seedy tips. The stalks should
be round, not flattened or ridged. Size is
not important except t hat all stalks be-
ing cooked together should be about the
same size so t hat they will cook evenly.
Celery should always be green, with
fresh leaves and brittle stalks that snap
crisply. Fennel-in Italian, finocchio -
should have a compact, greenish-white,
bulbous base, green upper stalks and
grass-green, ferny shoots. The color of
Swiss chard varies widely, but the most
popular variety possesses crinkled, dark
green leaves and a firm white stalk. Bok
choy-"white vegetable" in Chinese-
should have very white stalks and shiny,
dark green leaves.
o Storing: Do not wash stalk vegetables
before storing; doing so leaves water on
them that hastens decay. Remove any
limp outer leaves, wrap the stalks in a
perforated plastic bag and refrigerate
them. Celery and fennel will stay fresh
for as long as a week kept this way, bok
choy and asparagus for three days and
chard for two days. If they are stored
longer, too much water will evaporate
from the stalks, taking the flavor with it.
o Preparation: The first step in ready-
ing any of these vegetables is to wash it
in cold water. Fennel, celery, bok choy
and Swiss chard may collect grit in their
folds. Asparagus tips often contain sand.
Cut off celery, fennel and chard leaves
before cooking the stalks. The leaves of
celery and fennel are useful only as fla-
vorings for other dishes. Chard leaves,
however, are excellent either served by
themselves or with the stalks; but they
cook so quickly that they must be pre-
pared separately. If you choose to use the
chard leaves, trim them by cutting out
the tough middle rib from each one ( oppo-
site, bottom left) . Then cook the leaves
briefly: plunge them into boiling water,
let the water return to a boil, then re-
move and drain the leaves immediately.
You may cook the leaves ofbok choy in
the same way as chard leaves, or leave
them on and cook them with the stalks.
Bok choy's tender stalks require no trim-
ming before cooking. You can cook them
whole or cut into bite-sized pieces. Fen-
nel stalks, by contrast, are so tough they
must be cut off near the base. Then the
strings on the remaining stalks and base
are removed (center, right). Celery re-
quires the same treatment. Swiss chard
stalks have transparent membranes t hat
need to be removed (bottom, far right).
Once this is done, Swiss chard may be
cooked whole or cut into bite-sized pieces.
Asparagus stalks must be peeled so
they will cook as quickly as the more
tender tips. First hold each stalk near its
bottom end and bend it; it will break at
the point where the base becomes tough
and inedible. (Or cut off the woody ends
as shown on page 39.) Then use a small
knife or vegetable scaler to peel the rest
of the stalk (top, right).
Trimming Asparagus
Peeling the stalk. After snapping or
cutting off the tough end of an asparagus
stalk, peel it with a small paring knife,
cutting carefully toward yourself in order to
control the depth of the peel; the Ioyer of
skin will be thick at the bose of the stalk, but
much thinner at the cluster of immature
buds below the tip. The peelings will be
tough and inedible, but they may be
used to odd flavor to soups.
Skinning Fennel
Stringing the base. Cut off the upper stalks and shoots from
fennel (left). Cut partway through the top of the fennel bulb
at the inside edge of each stalk bose, leaving the outer strings
uncut. Then pull each half-cut piece away from you toward the bulb
bose; the strings will come with it (right).
Stemming Swiss Chard
Removing leaves and skin. Cut the leaf away from the
inner side of the stolk(/eft). Cut through the top of the stalk without
severing the skin on the outer side. Pull the piece of stalk with the
skin attached toward the root end (right). Repeat this procedure
from the root end for the insi de of t ~ stalk.
21
INTRODUCTION
The Onion Family: Food as well as Flavoring
The strongly flavored members of the al-
lium family shown below-onions, gar-
lic, shallots, leeks and scallions-usual-
ly are used as seasonings. But when
cooked as vegetables in their own right,
they offer a variety of interesting tastes
of different intensities.
The bulbous Spanish, yellow and white
boiling onions, along with shallots and
garlic, are the most pungent. All are
cured or dried after harvesting to develop
the papery skins that protect their flesh
during storage. Having been cured, all
three are available year round.
The mild-flavored leeks and scallions
are always sold fresh; scallions are avail-
22
able all the time and leeks reach their
peak during the autumn months.
o How to shop: When choosing cured al-
liums, look for ones that feel firm and
dry. Those with green shoots growing
from the root ends have been stored at too
high a temperature with too much hu-
midity, and sprouting will have spoiled
their flavor and texture. Those that have
soft or discolored spots are rotting.
Shallots, which are tiny and spherical
with a subtle taste similar to that of
onions, have brown, dry, papery skins.
Garlic bulbs and their individual cloves
should be tightly closed, with unwrin-
kled skins of white, pink to purple, or
white with purple streaks.
Buy leeks and scallions with crisp,
Scallions
Boiling onions
green, unwithered tops and clean white
bottoms. Leeks, in addition, should be
straight and cylindrical; those with bul-
bous ends probably will be tough and
woody inside. The same is not true of
scallions, however; some varieties devel-
op bulbous ends naturally.
o Storing: Do not keep dried onions,
garlic or shallots in the refrigerator: the
damp air encourages rot. Hang them in
baskets or in net bags in a cool-prefer-
ably 50 F. [10 C.] -dark place. Direct
light causes them to produce chlorophyll,
which turns their flesh green and their
flavor bitter. Shallots and bulb onions
will keep several months stored this way;
garlic will last approximately two weeks.
Fresh leeks and scallions are more per-
ishable, because their flesh is not protect-
ed by papery skin. After cutting off any
brown or limp tops, refrigerate leeks and
scallions in perforated plastic bags and
use them within three to five days.
o Preparation: Both dried and fresh al-
liums must be trimmed before cooking,
and the dried onions cause the cook the
most trouble. Their clinging skins can
be easily removed if you dip the vegeta-
bles quickly into boiling water (bottom,
right) . After peeling, dried onions usual-
ly are sliced or chopped, a process that
releases eye-irritating vapors. The best
Freeing Leeks of Grit
solution to this problem is to hold the on-
ions under cold running water as you
peel them; the water washes away the
volatile sulfur compounds before they
can vaporize and reach your eyes.
Peeling shallots requires only pulling
off the skin and outer layer (bottom, left);
they are the mildest members of this
group and probably will not irritate your
eyes. Garlic cloves can be simultaneously
crushed and peeled (below; top, right); if
you want whole, uncrushed cloves, use
boiling water to loosen their skins.
Mild, fresh scallions and leeks do not
Splitting and washing. Cut off the root base and the fibrous
leaf tops. Pierce the leek where the white part joins the green and
draw the knife through to the top end to split the leaves (left).
Make a second lengthwise split at right angl es to the first. Rinse the
leek in a bowl of cold water (right) until no grit appears.
Removing the Shallot's Shell Peeling Onions without Tears
irritate the eyes. Cut off the root ends of
scallions, pull off any damp, thin mem-
brane covering the whites, and trim any
dried or discolored sections. A leek root
also should be trimmed and, since leeks
trap quantities of grit, carefully washed
(below; top, left) before cooking.
Dried onions benefit from long, slow
cooking-baking, braising or boiling-
that leaves them sweet tasting. Even
garlic cloves, if cooked as shown on page
77, can be pureed and eaten. Their fla-
vor becomes mild, their texture butter-
smooth. Leeks may be braised, pan fried
or boiled. Scallions may be pan fried or
coated with batter and deep fried.
Splitting Garlic's Skin
Peeling a clove. Place a clove
under the side of a kni fe blade. Thump
the blade to split the garlic's clinging
skin; it will then slip off easily.
Peeling the skin. Cut off the tops Parboiling the skins. Cut off the tops and tails of the onions.
and tails of the shallots. Peel them with
your fingernails, pulling away the
first layer of fl esh with the ski n that is
usuall y fi rmly attached to it.
Put the onions in boil ing water for about a minute to loosen their
ski ns. Remove the onions and pull off the skins. Then peel off the
thin, slippery membrane just beneath the skin.
23
INTRODUCTION
The Artichoke: Prickly butT ender-hearted
The artichoke is actually an edible this-
tle. Its prickles consist of stiff, scalelike
leaves that have delicate-flavored flesh
at their bases. Inside the leaves is the
choke, a mass of hairlike fibers that rests
in the tender, cup-shaped part of the
vegetable called the bottom.
Immature artichokes-those less than
2 inches [5 em.] long-have leaves so soft
that they may be eaten raw. However,
fresh artichokes of this size are rare out-
side California, generally appearing only
in ethnic markets. Larger, mature arti-
chokes must be trimmed of prickles, and
24
Preparing a Whole Artichoke
l
Removing the stem. Wash the
artichoke in cold water. With o large,
stainless-steel chef's knife, cut off the
stem flush with the base (above) so that
the artichoke wi ll stand upright.
4
Snipping the leaf tips. With a pair
of kitchen scissors, cut Y2 inch [1 em.] off
the tip of each leaf (above) . Rub the
cut edges with lemon. The artichoke
may now be cooked, and its choke
removed during eating.
cooked. They are plentiful throughout
the country from March through June.
o How to shop: The leaves of mature ar-
tichokes should be tightly packed. Arti-
chokes with open, spreading leaves are
tough. In spring, the leaves should be
bright green; discoloration is a sign of
age or damage. Between November and
March, by contrast, the leaves may be
bronzed-the result of frost. While they
may look unattractive, bronzed leaves
will have meaty, tasty flesh, since arti-
chokes react to cold by putting on weight.
To make sure an artichoke is moist and
young, hold its tip up to your ear and
squeeze the leaves together. A tender ar-
2
Removing bottom leaves. Hold the
top of the artichoke in the palm of your
hand and snap off any small or
discolored leaves at the base.
5
Exposing the choke. To remove
the choke before cooking, parboil the
artichoke for 5 minutes. Plunge it into
cold water and drain it. Spread the center
leaves, work your fi ngers into the
opening and twist out the inner leaves.
tichoke will produce a squeaky sound,
but an old, dry one will sound hollow.
o Storing: Artichokes will keep for one
week when refrigerated, unwashed and
wrapped in perforated plastic bags.
o Preparation: Artichokes will discolor
during trimming and cooking unless you
take certain precautions. Trim them only
with stainless-steel knives and scissors;
carbon steel darkens the vegetables' cut
surfaces. As they are trimmed, rub arti-
chokes with a cut lemon or drop them in
acidulated water (page 13). Similarly,
cook artichokes in acidulated liquid or a
3
Trimming the top. Place the
artichoke on a cutting board. Cut off
about 1 inch [2 Yz em. ] of the top
(above). Rub the cut edges with lemon
juice or a freshly cut lemon, as here.
6
Scraping out the choke. Remove
the exposed, hairy fibers of the choke by
scraping them out with the tip of a
sharp-edged metal spoon (above).
Squeeze lemon juice into the empty
cavity to prevent discoloration.
blanc (page 41), using a stainless-steel,
enameled cast-iron or tin-lined copper
pot. Do not cook artichokes in aluminum
or cast-iron pots.
Artichoke preparation is simply a mat-
ter of removing bristly, inedible parts to
make t he tender ones accessible. If you
wish to serve the vegetable whole, cut off
t he stem, pull off the tough leaves at the
base and cut off the t horny tips of the
remaining leaves. To make the artichoke
easier to dismember and eat, scoop out
the hairy choke as shown opposite, bot-
tom right. If you wish to use only the
bottom, chop off t he stem and cut away
the leaves and choke (below, right) .
Turning an Artichoke Bottom
l
Breaking the stem. Hold the top
of the artichoke firmly and bend the stem
until it snaps from the base (above). As
it breaks, the stem will pull tough fibers
out of the artichoke bottom.
4
Paring the bottom. Starting at the
mark left by snapping off the stem, peel
around the artichoke base in a spiral
motion to pare away the dark bases of
the leaves. Then moisten the cut
surfaces with lemon or acidulated water.
2
Removing the outer leaves. Pull
each leaf outward and down so that the
top part snaps off the leaf's fleshy base
(above). Continue until you reach the
tender, inner leaves, distinguished by
their yellowish-green color.
5
Trimming the top. Slice off the
remaining dark green parts of the leaves
down to the point where they become
almost white. This will expose the tightly
packed central leaves that conceal
the choke. Pull off these leaves so that
the whole choke is visible.
3
Topping the artichoke. Slice
across the tops of the inner leaves,
removing the top one third to two
thirds of each leaf, depending on how
pale-and thus how tender - it is.
Rub the cut surfaces with lemon juice.
6
Removing the choke. It is easiest
to scrape the choke from a parboiled
artichoke bottom. If a recipe calls for
an uncooked bottom, scoop out the raw
choke with a teaspoon. If you are not
going to use the bottom immediately, rub
its surface with lemon juice.
25
INTRODUCTION
Herbs: A Basis for Kitchen Alchemy
Fresh vegetables, with their widely vary-
ing tastes, offer generous scope for the
use of herbs. To some extent, tradition is
a useful guide. Certain combinations of
herbs, for example, are sanctioned by
centuries of use: freshly chopped parsley,
chives, chervil and tarragon are mixed to
form the fines herbes of French cuisine;
and a basic bouquet garni is invariably
made by tying together parsley, thyme
and a bay leaf or wrapping them in
cheesecloth. Moreover, individual herbs
may be traditionally associated with par-
ticular vegetables-mint with peas, for
instance, or dill with cucumber.
However, there are no cast-iron rules
dictating how herbs should be used. The
following list offers suggestions and gen-
eral guidance to spur the imagination:
Basil: This herb's clovelike aroma is
perfect with tomatoes, but also comple-
ments squash, beans and potatoes.
Chervil: A cousin of parsley, chervil
26
has a delicate anise taste that goes with
any vegetable. Add it at the last minute;
long cooking may kill its flavor.
Chives: Finely snipped, these mild rel-
atives of onions can complement any
vegetable. Add them during the last mo-
ments of cooking.
Coriander: Also called Chinese parsley
and known in Spanish as cilantro, this
herb has an acrid taste. Use coriander
leaves sparingly with squash, eggplant,
snow peas and onions.
Dill: In addition to its traditional alli-
ance with cucumber, dill enhances pota-
toes, cabbages and peas.
Fennel: Anise-tasting fennel leaves go
well with mild-flavored vegetables such
as potatoes or carrots.
Hyssop: With its resinous, faintly bit-
ter taste, hyssop should be used sparing-
ly; try it on eggplant or in braises.
Lovage: Long cooking brings out the
sweet, celery-like taste of this herb. It
is good in braises and with potatoes.
Mint: For a cool, aromatic aftertaste,
add mint to carrots, cucumbers and to-
matoes as well as peas.
Parsley: Its taste is so mild that parsley
may be used in quantity with any vegeta-
ble. Flat-leafed parsley is more pungent
than curly-leafed.
Sage: The slightly musky taste of this
plant can dominate; use it sparingly,
with strong-tasting vegetables.
Tarragon: A strong herb with a sweet
anise taste, tarragon should be used dis-
creetly. Mix it with melted butter in a
sauce for asparagus or artichokes.
Thyme: The several varieties of this
herb include lemon thyme, whose faint
citrus flavor is delicious with braised
vegetables, and leaf thyme-a mild ver-
sion of common thyme (page 28) -which
is especially excellent in marinades.
All the herbs in this list may be used in
their dried forms, of course, but once
Preserving Herbs for Later Use
Herbs can be kept fresh in the refrigera-
tor, frozen plain or with butter, or dried
and stored in jars or bags.
A bunch of curly-leafed parsley or of
coriander with its roots intact will last
up to a week in the refrigerator in a
glass partly filled with water. Depend-
ing on their fragility, other herbs-
wrapped as shown at near right-will
keep refrigerated for two to three days.
Herbs frozen in plastic bags last six
months; they wilt and darken when
thawed, but are still tasty in braises.
To keep color and flavor fresh, beat
chopped herbs into an equal measure of
soft butter, and freeze the blend for use
on boiled, steamed or baked vegetables.
Herbs dried at home will hold their
flavor best if left on their stems, as
shown at far right. After you use the
leaves, the stems can be added to char-
coal fires to perfume grilled vegetables.
Keeping fresh herbs. Dampen a
clean cloth (or a paper towel) wi th cold
water. Put a few sprigs or leaves of the
herb- in this case, hyssop- in the damp
cloth as shown and roll it up loosely.
Store the packet in the refrigerator until
you are ready to use the herb.
Drying herbs. Loosely bunch the
herb- in this case, thyme. Bind the stems
together securely with raffi a (above) or
string. Hang the herb in a shaded, airy
place to dry for two to three weeks. To
protect herbs from dust and sun, hang
them inside paper bags that have
been punched with ventilating holes.
27
INTRODUCTION
28
dried they never have the fine scents and
flavors they do when fresh. Those pic-
tured on this page, however, do lend
themselves to drying (page 27) and two of
them-dittany of Crete and its relative,
oregano-are actually stronger tasting
when they have been dried.
Stored in a cool, dry place away from
the sunlight, dried herbs should keep
their scents and flavors for at least six
months. Should dried herbs develop a
musty smell or change color-signs that
they have lost their flavor-throw them
away. Before using dried herbs, check
the potency of their scent by crumbling at
least a few of the leaves in your fingers.
Dried herbs should be used with great-
er discretion than fresh herbs, because
drying tends to concentrate as well as al-
ter their flavors. Once you have become
familiar with their individual character-
istics, however, you can be as adventur-
ous with these dried herbs as you are
with their fresh forms. Here are some
particularly good combinations of dried
herbs and vegetables:
Bay leaf" This aromatic herb is indis-
pensable in a bouquet garni, and whole
leaves often are threaded onto skewers to
be used for broiling vegetables.
Dittany of Crete: A strong, pungent va-
riety of oregano, dittany should be used
sparingly on tomatoes and peppers.
Marjoram: Sweet marjoram and its
stronger relative, pot marjoram, have a
sweet, spicy flavor that blends with al-
most any vegetable.
Oregano: This pungent herb is an im-
portant component in many marinades
and is a traditional herb for tomatoes.
Rosemary: Very intense and resinous,
rosemary must be used with care: Sprin-
kle it on vegetables before grilling them
or add it to the water for boiled ones.
Savory: Winter and summer savory
both have a piquancy that makes them
possible substitutes for salt; winter sa-
vory is stronger and should be used more
discreetly. Often referred to as the bean
herb, savory also complements cabbages,
squash or onions.
Thyme: Common thyme, which has the
strongest flavor of any member of the
thyme family, appears most frequently
in bouquets garnis and braises.
The Repertoire of Cutting Techniques
Most vegetables may be cooked whole, of
course, but they are more frequently cut
up for cooking. The techniques for cut -
ting t hem vary not only with t he type of
vegetable, but also wit h t he ways t he
vegetables are to be used. When vegeta-
bles serve as flavori ngs for other ingredi-
ents, they ar e finely chopped, as shown
on page 31, so that they will release t heir
essences r eadily. If root vegetables are
l
Grasping the knife. For maximum
control during chopping, hold the knife
blade near the handle with your
thumb and the middle joint of your index
finger. Curl your other fingers around
the handle in a firm but relaxed grip.
used as garnishes, t hey are carved into
attractive shapes (page 32) . Most vegeta-
bles, however , are usually cut up simply
to reduce t heir cooking times.
Two factors determine how quickly a
vegetable will cook. One is shape: gr eat-
er sur face area will expose more of t he
vegetable to heat; both the roll-cut and
diagonal slicing techniques demonstrat-
ed on page 31 expose broad areas. The
other factor is size: t he smaller the piece,
2
Slicing vertically. Halve the
peeled onion through the root end. Place
a half, cut side down, on a cutting
board. Make lengthwise slices down
through each half at regular intervals;
cut to, but not through, the root end that
holds the layers together.
the more quickly heat will penetrate it.
The concentr ic layers of an onion can
be chopped almost effortlessly as demon-
strated below; techniques for slicing, j u-
lienning, dicing and shredding ot her veg-
etables appear on t he following pages. No
matter how t hey are produced, vegetable
pieces should always be approximately
uniform in size. That way, all will cook in
t he same amount of time.
3
Slicing horizontally. Turn a sliced
onion half around and hold it by the root
end. Cut horizontally through the
onion- again going to, but not through,
the root end. The more horizontal cuts
you make, the smaller the pieces will be.
4
Chopping. Place your fingertips on
top of one sliced onion half, and curl your
fingers so that the side of the knife
blade rests lightly against them at the
onion's stem end. Holding the onion
still and gradually moving your curled
fingers bock toward the root end, slice
across the cuts mode in Step 2 above.
Keep the knife blade pressed against
your finger joints and do not raise
the cutting edge higher than the
knuckles, lest you cut into your hand.
29
INTRODUCTION
Making Slices, Strips and Dice
1
Cutting slices. To keep a rounded
vegetable from rolling about, cut a thin
stri p from one side and set that side
on the cutting board. Then sl ice
the vegetable - a stemmed eggplant,
in this case- to the thickness you
wont the finished dice to be.
Tight heads of leaves. Halve
the vegetable-cabbage, here - and
core it (page 66). Place a half on a
cutting board with its flat side down.
Then, slice the vegetable vertically
wi th a Iorge chef's knife. The closer
together you make the slices, the
finer the shreds will be.
30
2
Cutting the slices into strips. Stock
the slices on top of one another, setting
aside the rounded outer slices. Cut
through the stock at intervals equal to
those of the slices in Step 1 .
3
Dicing the strips. Holding the
strips firmly together at one end, cut
across the stock of strips to produce dice.
Slice the reserved rounded vegetable
pieces into strips, then dice them too.
Loose leaves. To cut individual leaves of lettuce and spinach
into the fine shreds known as a chiffonade, stack the leaves one on
top of another; lettuce leaves are used in thi s demonstration.
Roll the leaves into a tight cylinder(obove, left). Place the cylinder
on a cutting board with the seam down. Holding the cylinder
tightly to keep it in shape, cut vertically through the roll at Y,s-inch
[1 Y2 -mm.] intervals to produce fine shreds (above, right).
Chopping Up Leafy Herbs
I
l
Bunching the herb. Wash the
herb- parsley, here - and dry it with
paper towels so that it will not sti ck
together when you chop. Push the herb
leaves into a tight clump and secure
the clump by pinching the stems together
just below the leaves.
Slicing for Surface Area
2
Coarse chopping. Grip the knife
handle as shown in Step 1, page 29.
Press the stems of the herbs down
onto the cutting board with your free
hand, and slice through the clump of
leaves at small intervals until you reach
the stems. Discard the stems.
Making the roll cut. Place a peeled, cylindrical vegetable,
such as the carrot shown here, on a cutti ng board. Make a
diagonal cut across the carrot to sever its flat stem end (above,
left). Keeping the knife in the same position, rol l the carrot over and
slice through it diagonally again to form a piece with two slanted
sides( center). Roll the carrot again and make another diagonal cut
to form the second piece. Continue roll ing and cutting (right)
until the entire carrot has been sectioned.
Fine chopping. Gather the chopped
leaves into a mound. Hold the knife
3 tip against the board. Then - without
moving the tip - cut the leaves by
raising and lowering the knife handle
whi le moving it from side to side in an arc.
Gather the bits and repeat the process
until the bits reach the desired size.
Cutting on the diagonal. Place a
trimmed stalk, such as the celery rib
above, on a cutting board. Position the
knife blade about
3
/4 inch [2 em.) from the
free end of the vegetable. Slanting the
blade away from you, slice the stalk with
a sharply angled cut. Discard the first
irregular piece. Continue cutting at the
same slant at small, regular intervals to
produce thi n, flat slices.
31
INTRODUCTION
32
Shaping Garnish Vegetables
Firm-textured root vegetables such as
potatoes, carrots and turnips may be
readily carved into shapes that make
attractive garnishes. One of the sim-
plest ways is to scoop out small spheres
of flesh with a melon bailer.
But a variety of other rounded shapes
can be quickly carved with an ordinary
kitchen knife, using the cutting tech-
nique shown at right. First , curve your
index finger around the top of the knife
blade (right, center) to ensure maxi-
mum control during cutting. Then hold
the knife in a fixed position and push
the vegetable against the blade: mov-
ing the vegetable rather than the knife
makes shaping both easier and safer.
With this technique, you can fashion
vegetables into the cylindrical shapes
shown here. By paring the cylinder s
down, you can produce the olive-sized
ovals known as olivettes, or the smaller
ovals called noisettes (hazelnuts).
Fancy Names for Simple Shapes
In the lexicon of vegetable cookery, gar-
nish shapes (above) are not the only
ones with picturesque names. Simple
shapes (right) have them, too. Julienne,
for example, might be calledallumettes,
French for matchsticks, if they are fine,
and shoestrings if they are coarse.
Finely chopped food is termed mince
or emince. When coarsely chopped, it is
said to be cut into bits or hache. Coarse
dice can be described as cubes. Fine dice
can be called brunoise, after the French
town Brunoy; salpicon, after the sauced
dishes made with them; even mirepoix,
for a flavoring base (opposite).
For the cook, select ing dimensions for
all these shapes is literally a matter of
taste. With small pieces, flavors mellow
and marry; with large pieces, vegeta-
bles keep their texture.
The cook's choice. Cut vegetables fine for
pan frying, coarse for boi li ng and braising.
The coarse julienne here are % inch [6 mm.)
wide, the fine ones Y,s inch [ 1 mm.); both are
about 1 inch [2Y2 em.) long. Chopped pieces
vary in size. The coarse dice are Y2 inch
[1 em.) on a side, the fine dice Ys inch [3 mm.).
Turning potatoes. Slice off the ends of a peeled potato,
halve it crosswise, then quarter the halves lengthwise (left). Push
each quarter against the knife to pare off long, curved slices
(center). Turn the potato after every cut to form a cylinder (right).
Dice
Classic Flavoring Mixtures
Flavor-rich vegetables ranging from on-
ions to mushrooms are often chopped or
diced and used in combinations, perhaps
with fresh herbs or other ingredients, to
enhance dishes made with other vegeta-
bles. Four of the most useful of these aro-
matic mixtures-three of them French
in origin- are demonstrated below.
A mirepoix (top row, left) includes fine-
ly diced carrots and onions- and some-
times celery-seasoned with fresh pars-
ley, thyme and bay leaf. Often a mirepoix
is spread on the bottom of a braising ves-
sel to enrich both the cooking liquid and
the vegetable being braised.
Duxelles (top row, right) is a mixture of
finely chopped mushrooms and onions or
shallots, cooked in butter until it reaches
a thick, puree-like consistency. This aro-
matic blend is used in stuffings, mixed
vegetable bakes and gratins.
Sofrito (bottom row, left), a common
flavoring in Spanish cookery, is primar-
ily composed of tomatoes and onions, al-
though it may include ham, sausage,
peppers or garlic. It is used in vegetable
stuffings and gratins.
A persillade (bottom row, right) com-
bines garlic and parsley. Although the
mixture can be included in stuffings and
marinades, it is most commonly added to
sautes or grills a minute or two before
they are served. When heated, the ingre-
dients of a persillade quickly suffuse a
dish with t heir flavor.
Cooking mirepoix. Melt butter in a saute pan and odd equal
amounts of finely chopped onions and diced corrots(left). Flavor
with chopped parsley and thyme, boy leaf and salt. Fry over very
low heat for about 30 minutes, stirring occasionally (right) to
prevent sticking. The ingredients should soften, but not brown.
Making duxelles. Wring finely chopped mushrooms dry in a
towel. Fry chopped onions gently in butter until soft. Add the
mushrooms (left) . Cook, stirring, over medium heat until any
mushroom liquid evaporates. Add chopped parsley(right),
pepper, salt and lemon juice; cook for 2 more minutes.
Making sofrito. Gently fry finely chopped onions in olive oil
until soft but not brown. Add peeled, seeded and chopped
tomatoes (left). Salt lightly and cook for 15 to 20 minutes, until
the mixture reduces to a thick sauce (right).
Mixing a persillade. Using a ceramic or marble mortar and
pestle, pound raw, peeled garlic cloves to a puree (left). Add 2
tablespoons [30 mi.] of chopped parsley for each garlic clove,
and mix thoroughly with your fi ngers (right).
33
INTRODUCTION
Monthly Availability
11/lhh


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-X 8
11 Q
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Arti chokes
-
Asparagus
Bean Sprouts
- -
1-
Beans: Brood/Limo
1-
1-
Beans: GreentNox
Beets -
-
Belgian Endive
Bok Choy
Broccoli
f-

Brussels Sprouts
p ;_. "'-'.
,_, .. ., c
-
Cabbage
-
Carrots -
r-
Cauliflower
-
-
-
Celeriac
-
Celery
1-
-
Choyote :;:;-
Corn
Cucumber
Eggplant
1-
-
-
Fennel -
Garlic/Shallots
-
Greens: Beet/Collord/Mustord/T urnip
Jerusalem Artichokes
Kale -
Kohlrabi -
-
,_
Leeks/ Scallions
Lettuce ,_-
Mushrooms
-
1-
Okra
Onions
-
,_
Parsnips
1-
-
Peas
Peppers
,_
Potatoes
Potatoes: New
,-
Potatoes: Sweet
- - I-
Rutabaga
1-
Salsify
-
Snow Peas

Sorrel
Spinach
---=
Squash: Spaghetti

-
,_
Squashes: Summer
1-
-
1-
Squashes: Winter
;.:,...
Swiss Chord
Tomatoes
1-
1-
Turnips
1--
34
Cooking Methods
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Summary of Options for
Shopping and Cooking
The chart at left shows at a glance the
monthly availability and cooking meth-
ods for each vegetable in this volume .
You can use it first as a guide to shopping
and menu planning, then as a help to
choosing recipes from the Anthology or
experimenting with the techniques dem-
onstrated on the following pages .
The month-by-month calendar section
of the chart indicates when a vegetable is
in the greatest supply in American mar-
kets-and therefore likely to be best in
quality and lowest in price. Many vegeta-
bles can be bought at any time of year .
The finest, however, remain those that
are locally grown, and harvested and sold
as they ripen. Depending on where you
live, these vegetables may be marketed
at times other than the peak seasons
shown: in Florida home-grown tomatoes
appear as early as January; the Michi-
gan crop does not appear until August .
The Cooking Methods section of the
chart provides a general guide to the
many possible ways of handling different
vegetables. It lists all the methods by
which each vegetable is most commonly
cooked, but does not describe the steps
that may be needed to prepare the vege-
table for these methods. Always check
the techniques section of this book to find
out any required preparations .
Using the chart. Locate the
vegetable you wont in the li st at for left
and read across the chart. In the
Monthly Availability section, a white
space means that less than 1 per cent
of the annual supply of that vegetable is
available in the month noted at the
top of the column; a light green bar
means that 1 to 9 per cent of the
supply is available; a medi um green bar
signifies 10 to 14 per cent; and a dark
green bar, more than 15 per cent. In the
Cooking Methods section, a block
dot means that the vegetable may be
cooked by the method indicated at
the top of the column.
35
------1--

Steaming
A boiling controversy
Tying up asparagus
The needs of individual vegetables
Three versatile sauces
Pureeing variations
Stuffing and poaching a cabbage
Green beans spill from their boiling
pan into a colander with all their color,
crispness and flavor intact. Once they
have been drained, the beans should be
returned to the pan and dried quickly
over high heat, then buttered, placed in a
warm dish and brought to the tabl e.
v4. of 'ood Timing
Of all the cooking methods suitable for vegetables, boiling is the most
used and the most abused. Too often, vegetables lose their tastes, tex-
tures and vitamins through overboiling. Properly treated, they will re-
tain freshness and much nutritional value. Crisp green beans, firm new
potatoes, tender asparagus-all are the rewards of proper boiling.
Hot water can produce a number of undesirable changes in a vegeta-
ble's chemical structure: it leaches out water-soluble nutrients and it
releases compounds that dull the colors of green vegetables, rob sweet
ones of their sugar and produce sulfurous tastes in cabbages. These
changes may be minimized in several ways, but no single tactic can
prevent them all. Immersing green and strong-flavored vegetables in a
large quantity of boiling water (pages 38-39) in an uncovered pot best
preserves natural color, flavor and texture. Cooking vegetables in a
small amount of water in a covered pot preserves nutrients, as does
steaming (page 40). For all of these approaches, though, the cooking time
should be as brief as possible; the longer a vegetable cooks, t he more
pronounced the changes in it will be.
Success in boiling or steaming may depend on additional treatments.
Many vegetables should be completely peeled to shorten the cooking
time; in the case of broccoli and asparagus, only the tough stems are
peeled. Other vegetables, such as beets, should not be peeled at all. A few
vegetables require precautions against discoloration: artichokes, celer-
iac and asparagus, for example, must be cooked in stainless-steel or
enameled pans if they are to keep the right color and taste. A list of
boiling hints for individual vegetables, along with recommended cook-
ing times, appears on page 41.
Vegetables may be completely cooked by boiling or the technique
may be a preliminary to other preparations. Parboiling- boiling vegeta-
bles until they are partially cooked- is used to soften dense vegetables
such as carrots before they are fried. Vegetables to be pureed (pages 44-
45) are almost always boiled first. Whatever the treatment, boiled vege-
tables are commonly served as side dishes. They can, however, become
meals in themselves. A large cabbage hollowed out, filled with a hearty
stuffing and t hen gently poached (pages 46-47) makes a satisfying sup-
per for a table of hungry people.
37
BOILING AND STEAMING
A Maximum of Water- or a Minimum?
The boiling of individual vegetables dif-
fers considerably in details (page 41),
but there are only two basic methods,
each with adherents convinced that their
way is best. Professional chefs prefer the
French method of using large quantities
of water and an uncovered pan, as shown
with broccoli at right. Nutritionists, on
the other hand, often insist on a mini-
mum amount of water and a covered pan.
In truth, both methods have advantages
and disadvantages.
With green vegetables- leaves, most
stalks and some seeds and pods- the use
of a large, uncovered volume of water has
the special virtue of preserving colors.
During immersion, the green vegetables
release natural acids that dull their col-
or, but the deeply filled, open pan per-
mits the acids to disperse in the air and
water. A similar dispersal occurs with
sulfurous compounds that would other-
wise intensify the flavors of cabbages and
other strong-tasting vegetables. On the
minus side, the large amount of water
used in this method leaches out some of
the nutrients of vegetables.
Such leaching is minimized when the
vegetables are cooked in only a small
amount of water, with the pan covered to
ensure all-around heat and even cooking.
To obtain some of the dispersing effects of
the other approach, t he pan can be left
uncovered for the first few minutes of
cooking; even so, the color of green vege-
tables and the flavor of strong-tasting
ones will never be quite as good as with
the open-pan, deep-water method. The
vegetables must be carefully watched
when cooked covered, because the water
can evaporate, leaving them to scorch.
Either method of boiling works well
when color and strong taste are not prob-
lems-with mild-flavored roots such as
potatoes and carrots, for example. So
does a middling amount of water, usually
described as "enough to cover the vegeta-
ble"; but for most vegetables, water to
cover is a compromise t hat does not take
full advantage of the benefits of either
basic technique.
38
l
2
Starting in boiling water. Bring a Iorge quantity of salted
water to a vigorous boil. Slip the trimmed vegetable into the water.
Broccoli (above) should have its stalks peeled- and sliced if
they are very thick - as shown on page 11. Leaving the pan
uncovered, bring the water back to a boil over high heat. Then
reduce the heat somewhat, but keep the water boiling.
Testing for doneness. Continue
boiling uncovered until the vegetable is
tender but not soft. Peeled broccoli
will cook in about 5 minutes, timed after
the water returns to the boiling point.
Test broccoli by piercing the thickest part
of a stalk with the point of a knife; the
point should enter the stalk easily.
3
Draining and serving. Drain the
vegetable in a colander. Return the
vegetable to the pan and shake over
high heat to dry it. Serve immediately.
Some cooks refresh green vegetables
by plunging them into cold water to stop
their cooking; but they must then be
reheated, and may get overdone.
Keeping Asparagus Firm
Aspar agus demand special handling dur-
ing cooking, not only because of their
long and slender shape, but also because
t heir firm stalks take longer to cook than
t heir fragile t ips. To shor ten t he cooking
t ime for t he stalks and to prevent t hem
from being stringy, they first must be
peeled, as shown on page 21.
The st andard cooking method is to im-
mer se the peeled st alks in a large quanti-
ty of boiling water, as shown at right. But
t he asparagus may cook unevenly when
t r eated t his way, so some cooks use the
par tial-immersion method, shown below,
to keep t he tips from overcooking. In t his
method, the stalks are boiled, but t he
tender t ips are gently steamed.
For either approach, asparagus stalks
are t ied in bundles before cooking; t his
prevents the delicate tips from knocking
against one another and breaking. Once
cooked, the bundles can be lift ed out by
t he string and dr ained on paper t owels.
The string should be cut and t he stalks
separated on t he ser ving plate, minimiz-
ing damage to individual stalks.
A Tandem Technique
~
l
r . - - ~ ~ __ :"
... - .. - . \
- ... "'- '
~ ' ( . . ~ - ..
'_;. ..
Steam boiling. Pour 3 inches [8 em. ]
of boiling water into the bottom
section of a double boi ler. Place the
bundled asparagus upright in the boiling
water. Invert the boiler's top section
over it to trap the steam. Steam the tips
and boil the stalks until they are
tender - about 8 minutes.
l
3
Tying bundles. Gather six to eight
peeled asparagus stalks into a bundle
and place them in the middle of a
length of string about 30 inches long.
Staying below the tips, wind the
halves of the string several times around
the stalks in opposite directions, and
knot the ends near the bases. Reserve
one loose stalk to taste for doneness.
2
Trimming the ends. If you have
not snapped off the woody ends of the
stalks as described on pages 20-21 ,
trim them to the same length with a sharp
knife. Cut through the stalks wi th one
stroke, making sure you remove the
woody sections where the color
changes to a darker green.
Boiling asparagus. Li ft the bundles by slipping a fork through
the string wrapping, and lay them, along with the loose stalk, in a
large pot or deep skil let of boiling water. Cook uncovered for about
8 minutes ofter the water returns to a boil. Remove the asparagus
when the single stalk is tender yet firm to the bite.
39
BOILING AND STEAMING
Strategies for Steaming
Any vegetable that can be boiled can also
be steamed-cooked over boiling water
( right) or in the aromatic steam released
from lettuce leaves (.below). Steaming
takes longer than boiling, but because it
requires a covered pan and because the
vegetables do not touch the water, it does
a better job of preserving nutrients. The
covered pan, of course, can discolor green
vegetables and intensify the tastes of
strong-flavored vegetables. These prob-
lems can be minimized by decreasing
cooking time: tender vegetables or those
cut into small pieces will cook before
their colors or flavors change.
Quick-cooking, small vegetables such
as young peas or green beans are the best
candidates for cooking in lettuce leaves.
When heated, the leaves release mois-
ture that steams the vegetables they en-
close; if vegetables require long cooking,
however, that moisture may evaporate,
allowing the leaves to scorch.
The safest technique is to suspend veg-
etables over boiling water in a steaming
pan with a perforated insert or the col-
lapsible metal basket shown at right.
40
Exploiting the Moisture of Leaves
l
Positioning the leaves. Rinse two
or three large lettuce leaves and arrange
them so that they cover the bottom of
the pan, extending partway up the sides.
Boston lettuce is shown here, but any
large-leafed lettuce may be used.
1
Adjusting the steamer. Place the
steamer basket in a pan and put the
vegetables into the basket. Pour in 1
to 2 inches [2% to 5 em.] of water; the
water must not touch the basket
bottom. To shorten cooking times, cut
dense vegetables such as carrots into
thin pieces; soft vegetables such as
zucchini may be left in larger pieces.
2
Enclosing the vegetables. Put
small, quick- cooking vegetables, such as
the young peas shown here, in the center
of the leaves, leaving a Y2 -inch [1-cm.]
margin so the vegetables do not spil l out
as the leaves shrink during cooking.
Cover with more leaves.
2
Steaming the vegetables. Cover
the pan, bring the water to a boi l over
medium heat and steam the vegetables
gently, following the cooki ng times
specified on the opposite page. When
the vegetables can be pierced wi th a
sharp knife, they are done.
3
Steaming the vegetables. Cover
the pan tightly and place it over
low heat. When the lettuce leaves are
completely wilted, after about 10
minutes, thei r rendered moisture will
have steamed the vegetables wi thin.
How to Boil or Steam Any Vegetable
The following guide summar izes boiling
and steaming instructions for the veg-
etables in this book. Because a vegeta-
ble's cooking time varies with its size,
age and tenderness, both minimum and
maximum times are listed. These times
will produce vegetables that retain as
much of their natural texture-and nu-
trients-as possible. For softer texture,
you may want to increase the times for
certain vegetables.
When the way a vegetable is prepared
affects its cooking time, this is noted. The
term "cut up" refers to vegetables re-
duced to equal-sized pieces- either l-
inch [2V2-cm. ] dice or slices % inch [1
em.] thick. If your pieces are larger or
smaller, adjust the cooking times.
Cooking times for boiling are the same
for both the open-pan, deep-water meth-
od (at least 2 quarts [2liters] of water to
each pound[% kg.] of vegetables) and the
covered-pan, shallow-water technique (1
cup [14 liter] of water to each pound of
vegetables). For either method, boil the
water, add the vegetables and begin tim-
ing when the water returns to a boil. To
parboil, reduce the times to one third.
Most vegetables should be boiled in
salted water; allow 1 t easpoon [5 ml.] salt
to each quart. Vegetables boiled in shal-
low water should be left uncovered for
the first few minutes of cooking to mini-
mize color and flavor change.
Some vegetables-indicated below-
discolor when they are prepared in cast-
iron or aluminum pans. Cook these vege-
tables in nonreact ive enameled, glass or
stainless-steel pans. Other vegetables-
also indicated-discolor in plain water;
boil them by the open-pan, deep-water
method, using acidulated water (page
13) or a blanc -water to which flour, oil
and lemon juice have been added in the
proportion of 1 tablespoon [15 ml.] of
each to 1 quart of water .
Artichokes. Boil whole in a blanc for
20 to 40 minutes. Use a nonreactive pan.
Do not steam.
Asparagus. Boil whole for 5 to 8 minutes, 3 to
4 minutes if cut up. Steam whole for 10 to 15
minutes, 5 to 7 minutes if cut up. Use a
nonreactive pan.
Bean sprouts. Boil whole for 2 to 3 minutes.
Steam whole for 3 to 5 minutes.
Beans: broad or lima. Boil whole for
1 0 to 15 minutes. Steam whole for
15 to 25 minutes.
Beans: green or wax. Boil whole for 5 to
10 minutes, 4 to 7 minutes if cut up. Steam
whole for 15 to 20 minutes, 1 0 to 15
minutes if cut up.
Beets. Boil whole and unpeeled for 40
minutes to 3 hours. Do not steam.
Belgian endive. Boil whole for 15 to 20
minutes. Steam whole for 30 to 40 minutes.
Bok choy. Boil leaves for 2 to 3 minutes, ribs
for 7 to 1 0 minutes. Steam leaves for 5 to 7
minutes, ribs for 15 to 20 minutes.
Broccoli. Boil whole stalks for 5 to 10
minutes, 3 to 7 minutes if cut up. Steam stalks for
15 to 20 minutes, 10 to 15 minutes if cut up.
Brussels sprouts. Boil whole for 5 to 7
minutes. Steam whole for 15 to 20 minutes.
Cabbage. Boil quarters for 1 0 to 15 minutes, 5
to 7 minutes if shredded. Steam, quarters for
25 to 35 minutes, 10 to 15 m i m J t ~ s if shredded.
For red cabbage, use a nonreactive pan
and acidulated water.
Carrots. Boil whole for 15 to 20 minutes, 5
to 15 minutes if cut up. Steam wholefor25 to40
minutes, 15 to 35 minutes if cut up.
Cauliflower. Boil whole for 15 to 20 minutes,
5 to 8 minutes if cut up. Steam whole for 45
to 50 minutes, 20 to 30 minutes if cut up.
Celeriac. Boil cut up for 15 to 20 minutes.
Do not steam.
Celery. Boil whole ribs for 12 to 15 minutes,
10 to 15 minutes if cut up. Steam whole ribs for
20 to 25 minutes, 15 to 20 minutes if cut up.
Chayote. Boil quarters for 15 to 20 minutes.
Steam quarters for 25 to 30 minutes.
Corn. Boil whole for 3 to 5 minutes, omitting
salt but adding Y2 teaspoon [2 mi.] of sugar
for each quart [1 liter] of water. Steam whole for
20 to 30 minutes.
Cucumber. Boil peeled, seeded' halves for 7
to 1 0 minutes, quarters for 5 to 6 minutes,
cut-up pieces for 3 to 5 minutes. Steam halves
for 15 to 20 minutes, quarters for 10 to 15
minutes, pieces for 10 to 15 minutes.
Eggplant. Boil whole and unpeeled for 15
to 20 minutes, 5 to 1 0 minutes if peeled and cut
up. Steam peeled and cut up for 20 minutes.
Fennel. Boil whole for 30 to 35 minutes, 10 to
15 minutes if quartered. Steam quartered for
20 to 25 minutes.
Garlic or shallots. Boil peeled or
unpeeled for 10 to 15 minutes. Do not steam.
Greens. Boil whole beet, collard, mustard or
turnip leaves for 7 to 10 minutes. Steam whole
leaves for 15 to 20 minutes.
Jerusalem artichokes. Boil whole for 1 0 to
15 minutes, 5 to 8 minutes if cut up. Steam
whole for 20 minutes, 15 minutes if cut up.
Kale. Boil whole leaves for 10 to 15
minutes. Steam whole leaves for 15 minutes.
Kohlrabi. Boil whole for 30 to 40 minutes,
20 minutes if quartered. Do not steam.
Leeks or scallions. Boil whole for 1 0 to
15 minutes, 2 to 3 minutes if cut up.
Steam whole for 30 minutes, 7 to 10
minutes if cut up.
Lettuce. Boil separated romaine leaves
and whole butterheod for 2 to 3 minutes, whole
romaine for 5 to 10 minutes. Steam
separated romaine leaves and whole
butterhead for 10 to 15 minutes, whole
romaine for 20 to 25 minutes.
Mushrooms. Do not boil. Steam whole
for 3 to 8 minutes.
Okra. Boil whole for 1 0 to 15 minutes.
Steam whole for 20 minutes.
Onions. Boil small yell ow or white onions
for 15 to 30 minutes. Steam for 25 to 40 minutes.
Do not steam or boil large onions.
Parsnips. Boil whole for 1 0 to 15 minutes, 5 to
10 minutes if cut up. Steam whole for 25 to
35 minutes, 20 to 30 minutes if cut up.
Peas. Boil large mature peas for 4 to 10
minutes, small young peas for 2 minutes. Steam
Iorge peas for 15 to 20 minutes, small peas
for 5 to 7 minutes.
Peppers. Boil halves for 6 to 7 minutes, 4 to
5 minutes if cut up. Steam halves for 15 minutes,
8 to 10 minutes if cut up.
Potatoes. Boil whole and unpeeled for 20
minutes, 10 to 15 minutes if cut up. Steam cut
up for 35 to 40 minutes.
Potatoes, new. Boil whole and
unpeeled for 7 to 15 minutes, 1 0 minutes if
quartered. Steam whole and unpeeled for
25 to 35 minutes.
Potatoes, sweet. Boil whole and
unpeeled for25 to30 minutes, 20 to 30 minutes
if cut up. Do not steam.
Rutabaga. Boil whole for 30 to 40 minutes,
but for 15 to 20 minutes if cut up. Steam cut
up for 30 minutes.
Salsify. Boil whole for 25 to 35 minutes, 20
to 30 minutes if cut up. Use acidulated water or
a blanc. Do not steam.
Snow peas. Boil whole for 30 seconds.
Steam whole for 5 to 7 minutes.
Sorrel. Do not boil or steam. Parboi l whole
leaves for 1 minute. Use a nonreactive pan.
Spinach. Boil whole leaves for 1 to 2 minutes.
Steam whole leaves for 15 to 20 minutes.
Squash, spaghetti. Boil whole for 35 to 45
minutes. Steam halves for 30 to 45 minutes.
Squashes, summer. Boil whole and
unpeeled for 5 to 20 minutes, 7 to 10 minutes if
cut up. Steam whole and unpeeled for 10 to 20
minutes, 10 to 15 minutes if cut up.
Squashes, winter. Boil cut up for 10 to 15
minutes. Steam cut up for 25 to 35 minutes.
Swiss chard. Boil leaves for 1 to 2 minutes,
ribs for 10 to 12 minutes. Steam leaves for 5
to 7 minutes, ribs for 5 to 20 minutes.
Tomatoes. Do not boil or steam.
Turnips. Boil whole for 10 to 15 minutes, 5 to
1 0 minutes if quartered. Steam whole for 25
to 30 minutes, 15 to 20 minutes if quartered.
41
BOI LI NG AND STEAMING
A Spectrum of Sauces
The sauces that enrich boiled vegetables
can range from a spoonful of olive oil or
butter to one of the three classic mix-
tures-vinaigrette, hollandaise and but-
ter sauce-demonstrated here. Whatev-
er your choice, the vegetables should be
freshly cooked and carefully dried; other-
wise the sauce will turn watery.
To dry firm vegetables such as green
beans and potatoes, drain them in a col-
ander, then toss them in a pan over high
heat until the water clinging to them
evaporates. If the sauce is to be butter,
add small pieces to the hot pan, tossing
until the butter melts. Vegetables such
as asparagus that are too fragile to toss
should be drained on a kitchen towel;
pour melted butter over them in the serv-
ing dish. For any vegetable, olive oil and
a little lemon juice can be a fragrant sub-
stitute for butter.
From olive oil and lemon juice it is a
short step to vinaigrette: a blend of oil,
vinegar and seasonings (opposite, bot-
tom) . A temporary emulsion, vinaigrette
quickly separates; stir it before serving.
Hollandaise sauce (opposite, top; rec-
ipe, page 166) is a longer lasting emul-
sion made by beating butter into warmed
egg yolks; lemon juice gives the sauce its
tart flavor. If the yolks are to absorb the
butter without curdling or separating,
they must stay fluid, they must never be
overheated and the butter must be added
slowly. To keep the yolks fluid, mix them
with water. To avoid overheating, make
Sauce Batarde: Starting from Butter and Flour
42

l
Beating the egg yolks. Drop the
egg yolks into a bowl, pour in a little col d
water and beat the mixture until it is
smooth. Set the mixture aside.
4
Adding the egg. Remove the
souce from the heat, let it cool for a
minute, then whisk in the beaten egg
mixture. Continue to whisk over low heat.
2
Making the roux. Melt butter in a
heavy pan and odd on equal amount of
flour (above). Stir the mixture over low
heat until it begins to bubble.
5
Adding lemon juice. When
the sauce thickens, but before it boils,
toke it off the heat and odd lemon
juice. Whisk in some butter chunks.
the sauce in a bain-marie (opposite) or
double boiler. Hollandaise separates if
left standing, but if you set the pan in
warm wat er, it can wait up to an hour.
Butter sauce, or sauce batarde (below;
recipe, page 166), is also thickened with
egg yolks, but is based on a roux of butter
and flour blended over low heat. Add
warm water to a roux for a plain sauce;
add egg yolks for a rich, creamy one.
The trick with butter sauce is to make
it very quickly. Stir water into the roux
as soon as it is smooth. Add the egg yolks
just after the water and roux have boiled
and slightly cooled. Take the sauce from
the stove as soon as it thickens and finish
it immediately with butter chunks.
3
Pouring in water. Remove the pan
from the heat and whisk in lightly salted
worm water (above). Return to the
heat and whisk until the mixture boils.
6
Finishing. Remove the pan from the
heat and gradually odd the rest of the
butter, whisking steadily. Adjust the
seasoning and serve immediately.
Hollandaise: A Mixture of Butter and Egg Yolks
l
Making a bain-marie. Put the
egg yolks in o pan. Next, half-fill a larger
pan with water and place a trivet in it.
Then heat the water to a slow simmer.
4
Thickening the sauce. When all
the butter has been added, continue
whisking until the sauce becomes
thick and creamy. Keep the heat low.
2
Whisking the egg yolks. Add a
spoonful of cold water to the egg yolks.
Set the pan on the trivet and whisk the
yolks until they are smooth.
5
Adding lemon juice. Season with
white and cayenne pepper and salt. Add
lemon juice to taste (above); squeeze
the juice through a strainer into the pan.
Vinaigrette: Blending Oil with Vinegar
l
Seasoning the vinegar. Put salt
and pepper in a bowl and pour in
vinegar - in this case, red wine
vinegar. Stir until the salt dissolves.
2
Pouring in oil. Add about four or
five times as much oil as vinegar; exact
proportions will depend on the acidity
of the vinegar, and your taste.
3
Adding butter. Whisk in butter
chunks in batches. Allow the yol ks to
absorb each batch - you should see
no butter - before adding the next.
6
Adjusting consistency. Whisk the
sauce over low heat until it is as thick as
heavy cream. If it becomes too thick,
whisk in a littl e warm water to thin it.
3
Combining the ingredients. Stir
to barely mix the oi l and vinegar; excess
beating allows volatile flavoring
elements in the oil to escape.
43
BOILING AND STEAMING
Five Ways to Produce a Puree
Once they are made tender by cooking,
all vegetables can be mashed or sieved to
make a smooth pulp, or puree. A vegeta-
ble puree not only constitutes a light side
dish by itself, but also can provide the
primary ingredient for such elaborate
preparations as the cauliflower pudding
demonstrated on pages .88-89.
The actual mashing or sieving can be
accomplished in various ways (right), de-
pending on your vegetables and the tex-
ture you want the puree to have. The
coarsest-textured puree is produced by
pounding vegetables with a potato mash-
er. For a finer, lighter puree, use a large
pestle to press them through a sieve. For
especially fine purees, scrape the vegeta-
bles through a drum sieve.
A food mill will ease the labor of puree-
ing vegetables. So, of course, will electri-
cal devices such as blenders, portable
mixers and processors, but they should
be used with care since their rapid action
can reduce vegetables to a homogeneous
pulp without texture or character.
All vegetables to be pureed should be
well drained after they are boiled or
steamed; this ensures that the puree will
be thick and firm. Most vegetables have
enough water content after draining to
provide ample moisture for the puree. Po-
tatoes, however, contain so much starch
and fiber that they will be too dry with-
out the addition of milk, cream or simply
a little of the water in which they were
boiled. Add the liquid after pureeing so
that you will be able to judge how much
the mixture needs.
Naturally starchy vegetables, such as
potatoes and peas, can be pureed alone;
but vegetables with a low starch content,
such as young green beans, should be
combined with a small amount of cooked
rice or potato to give their purees the nec-
essary starchy body.
To give any puree a smoother consis-
tency and a shiny surface, incorporate
butter after the puree has been reheated
and has been removed from the heat for
serving. Instead of simply melting, but-
ter added at this point will bind the vege-
table puree into a creamy whole.
44
Using a potato masher. Any cooked
vegetable that does not have tough fibers or
skin, such as the peeled potatoes shown
here, can be pureed with a potato masher.
Pound the vegetable, a little at a time, until
all of it is smooth. Then use the masher
or a spoon to blend butter into the puree.
New Flavors from Judicious Mixes
In the composite puree demonstrated
here, starchy potatoes give body to an
all-white mixture of turnips, celeriac,
onions and garlic. As in all mixed pu-
rees, the separate flavors of the individ-
ual ingredients merge into a new and
unique whole. With the exception of the
garlic, which is added to taste, the vege-
tables used for the puree are combined
in roughly equal proportions. By follow-
ing this formula, you can select other
combinations of vegetables to create
your own mixture.
In this demonstration, the first step is
Sieving with a pestle. Pumpkin
(above) and other soft-textured cooked
vegetables can be pureed by using a large
pestle to press them through the mesh of a
fine metal sieve into a bowl or pan. Green
beans and other more fibrous vegetables are
too firm to puree by thi s method.
to parboil the turnips briefly and sepa-
rately to tame their strong flavor and
draw out some of their excess moisture.
After parboiling, stew the turnips in l
butter until they are tender and most of
their remaining moisture has evaporat-
Boiling the vegetables. Parboil
peeled and quartered turnips for 5 to l 0
minutes, then drain them. Peel the
celeriac, potatoes and onions, and cut
them into large pieces. Boil the
ed. All the other vegetables are boiled
together, then pureed with the turnips.
Finally, the mixed vegetable puree is
reheated and, immediately before serv-
ing, bound with butter.
celeriac for l 0 minutes, add other
vegetables and several garlic cloves
(above) , then cook for 30 to 40 minutes.
Using a food mill. Firm-textured
vegetables-such as the cauliflower here-
are easily broken up by the blades of a
food mill. The blades, rotated by turning the
handle, gradually force food through a
perforated plate in the machine's base. Food
mills are also ideal for breaking up peas
and beans before sieving them (for right).
2
Straining off the stock. While the
other vegetables are cooking, stew the
turnips gently in enough butter to keep
them from sticking to the saucepan; do
not let them color. When the other
vegetables become tender, strain off the
water into a bowl (above). Reserve it
for use in a soup or as a stock.
Pureeing in a processor. Any vegetable
can be reduced to pulp in seconds by a food
processor. But part of the load- here,
carrots - will be flung out of reach of the
blades. For an even consistency, operate the
machine in short bursts, stopping often to
scrape the bowl with a spatula. Processors
are not recommended for potatoes or other
starchy vegetables; the rapid blade
movement wi ll turn them pasty.
3
Making the puree. Add the
butter-stewed turnips to the other
vegetables and puree them all
together. Since onions are not easily
pureed through a conventional sieve,
push all the cooked vegetables through
a food mill, as demonstrated here.
Using a drum sieve. Vegetables such
as celery or string beans, with fibers or skins
that are not removed before cooking, can
be chopped in a food mill, then pureed
through a drum sieve, or tamis, with very
fine, nylon mesh. Here, peas are pressed
through the mesh with a plastic scraper;
their skins do not pass through the sieve, so
the resulting puree is smooth.
4
Binding with butter. Reheat the
puree for serving, stirring constantly with
a wooden spoon to keep it from
sticking and to distribute the heat evenly.
When the puree is hot, remove it from
the heat and stir in chunks of butter
(above), then serve at once.
45
BOILING AND STEAMING
Whole, Stuffed Cabbage: A Course in Itself
Cabbage-that staple of peasant cook-
ing throughout the world-is often sim-
ply shredded, boiled briefly and served as
a garnish vegetable. But the size and
structure of a cabbage head offer the cook
a special opportunity: the tightly furled
center leaves, or heart, can be removed,
producing a capacious hollow for stuff-
ing. Boiling the stuffed cabbage produces
a meal in one dish (recipe, page 107) .
Any green or white cabbage weighing
2 to 2
1
h pounds [1 kg.] or more is suit-
able for such treatment. A preliminary
blanching softens its outer leaves so that
they can be peeled back to expose the
tightly layered heart (Step 1, far right).
When the heart is removed, it is chopped
up and mixed with meat, other vegeta-
bles and herbs to make the stuffing.
Among the types of meat that might be
used for stuffing, bacon and pork have a
special affinity with cabbage-and their
fat helps to keep the filling moist. If you
use lean meat, such as veal , or cooked
meat leftovers, you should add a little
fat-butter, oil , pork fat or bone marrow.
You can include almost any vegetable
in the stuffing. In the demonstration
here, parboiled, chopped chard leaves,
peeled, seeded and chopped tomatoes and
sauteed onions ar e combined with bacon
and the chopped cabbage leaves. But let-
tuce, peas or spinach leaves would also
blend well with the cabbage heart. Boiled
rice binds and lightens this stuffing; or
you may use bread crumbs. Similar stuff-
ings can serve for chard or for vine or
individual cabbage leaves (pages 68-69).
To keep the stuffed cabbage in shape as
it cooks, enclose it in an undyed-cotton
string net (right) . These nets are some-
times sold at kitchenware shops; cheese-
cloth may be substituted. Submerged in
stock or salted water, the cabbage can
then be simmered safely for the 2 to 3
hours it takes to cook.
46
l
5
Removing the heart. Trim the stem of the cabbage and remove
any damaged leaves(left). Simmer the cabbage in salted water for
10 to 15 minutes, until the outer leaves are just supple. Take the
cabbage out of the pot and drain it. Set aside any leaves that
become detached. When the cabbage is cool enough to handle,
place it on a string net or a large piece of cheesecloth. Gently pull
back the outer leaves (center) . Cut the firm heart of inner leaves
from the stem (right), leaving the outer leaves attached.
Tying up the bag. Wi th a trussing
needle, thread uncoated cotton string
through the mesh around the top of
the string net(above). Pull the string tight
and tie it. If you use cheesecloth, pull
the edges together at the top and tie
them. l ower the cabbage into a pot of
boiling, salted water or stock, then
reduce the heat to a simmer.
6
Completing the cooking. Leaving
the pot lid ajar to keep the liquid
simmering slowly, cook the cabbage for
3 hours. To remove the cabbage from
the pot, push the prongs of a fork through
the top of the bag. Use a bowl to
catch the dripping liquid (above), and
transfer the cabbage to a colander to
drain for 5 to 10 minutes.
2
Stuffing the cabbage. Chop the
heart finely, squeeze out excess water
with your hands and mix the chopped
leaves with the other ingredients of the
stuffing. Place the string net with the
outer cabbage leaves on it in o bowl.
Pack stuffing into the hollow center,
molding it into a ball about the some size
and shape as the cabbage heart.
3
Capping the stuffing. To help
keep the stuffing intact, press one or two
large leaves over it. Use the leaves
that broke off during the preliminary
simmering or detach a few outer
leaves. Secure them by pressing extra
stuffing around their edges and
folding a few outer leaves over it(above) .
7
Unwrapping the cabbage. Place the drained cabbage in
a bowl, cut the string and pull back the edges of the net (left) or
cheesecloth. Lay a plate on top of the cabbage, then turn over
plate and cabbage together. Lift away the bowl (center) and
remove the net or cheesecloth. finally, replace the bowl on the
cabbage and invert the plate and the bowl once more so that the
cabbage is stem side down and ready to serve (right).
4
Closing up the cabbage. Gently fold
all the remaining outer leaves back
into place. Overlap them to enclose the
stuffing completely and to give the
8
cabbage its original rounded shape.
Serving the cabbage. Serve the
stuffed cabbage directly from the bowl
so that it retains its shape as it is cut
into portions. Slice it into wedges as if it
were a cake, then pour a little of the
cooking liquid over each wedge.
47
-----2--
:frying
Pan-frying tactics
The basics of deep frying
Perfect French fries
Sculpting potato shapes
Making batter coating
Deep-fried onion rings tumble from
the towel used to drain them onto a
serving platter lined with a napkin that
will blot up the last traces of fat. Each ring
of onion is moist and tender under its
protective coating of crisp batter.
Suiting the
to the
Vegetables can be fried in two basic ways: quick frying, which means
cooking vegetables in the minimum amount of hot oil or fat, and deep
frying- cooking them in a large amount of even hotter oil or fat. Either
way, the vegetables will retain their crispness, since they are cooked
only briefly and do not come into contact with water during the process.
They also will taste delicious; the coating of oil, fat or batter that vegeta-
bles receive in frying acts as a flavoring while sealing in the vegetables'
own flavors. To achieve good results, you need only adapt the frying
method to the vegetables you have and carefully prepare those vegeta-
bles for cooking.
For frying, vegetables must be in small pieces that will cook through
quickly: at temperatures up to 390 F. [195 C.], it is all too easy to scorch
the surfaces before the interiors are even heated through. Slices, cubes,
julienne or rough chunks may be either quick fried or deep fried. The
only rule is that all vegetables that are fried together should be cut into
pieces of approximately equal size so that they will cook in the same
amount of time. Shredded vegetables may be cooked in a mass as a kind
of cake by combining quick frying with steaming (pages 52-53). And
shredded, finely chopped or pureed vegetables may be bound together
with a batter and quick fried as pancakes (pages 52-53) or bound with a
thick sauce and deep fried as croquettes (page 54) .
Most vegetables can be quick fried straight from the cutting board.
However, moisture-rendering vegetables such as tomatoes must be coat-
ed with crumbs or flour to seal in their liquid and protect their delicate
flesh from the heat of the fat and pan. And dense vegetables that require
a long time to cook- cauliflower and carrots, for example-should be
parboiled before quick frying to minimize their cooking time. Dense
vegetables also need parboiling before deep frying, and all vegetables
except potatoes must be coated with a protective batter that will keep
them from burning and drying in the sizzling oil. In the case of potatoes, a
high starch content serves to seal in their moisture.
Potatoes, in fact, would seem to be the perfect frying vegetable-
almost any method suits them. But most vegetables, from Jerusalem
artichokes to asparagus, can be fried in one way or another, as shown in
the chart on pages 34-35.
49
FRYING
Easy Steps to Perfect Pan Frying
The rules and results of pan frying- or
sauteing-are the same, whether the
cooking is done in a skillet, a saute pan or
a wok. The vegetables are cooked quickly
in a small amount of very hot oil or fat.
The brief cooking and the coating of oil or
fat the vegetables receive ensure that
they retain their flavor, texture and col-
or. Almost any vegetable can be pan
fried, alone or with others. If carefully
prepared and cooked, each will emerge
crisp and delicious.
Vegetables to be fried together should
be cut into small, uniform pieces that
cook in only moments. Quick-cooking
vegetables such as snow peas and mush-
rooms need no further preparation. Veg-
etables that take longer to cook, such as
carrots, should be parboiled first-and
dried to prevent spattering-to decrease
cooking time. Fragile vegetables, such as
tomatoes, benefit from a coating that will
harden during cooking to protect their
flesh from the heat and seal in their mois-
ture (box, opposite, bottom).
Coated vegetable slices are protected
to some extent from the heat and should
be turned only once to brown the coating
on both sides. Uncoated vegetables, how-
ever, should be kept moving briskly in
the oil or fat-flip them with a spatula or
shake the pan- so that they do not over-
cook or cook unevenly.
The oil, plus a little salt, provides the
essential flavoring for pan-fried vegeta-
bles. Butter adds sweetness, but it must
be clarified or mixed with oil to prevent
burning; olive oil contributes a fruity
taste and bacon fat or lard an aromatic
one. For stir frying, mild peanut oil is
customary. You may vary flavors further
by adding chopped shallots or onions,
sliced ginger root or-as with the green
beans here-whole cloves of garlic, un-
peeled to restrain their sharpness. Or, as
shown in the demonstration with mixed
vegetables (right, below), you may add
seasoning at the end of cooking in the
form of a pungent persillade (page 33),
lemon juice or a sprinkling of freshly
chopped herbs. For contrasting texture,
add bread crumbs during the last few sec-
onds of cooking.
50
Pan frying a single vegetable. Place a shallow ski llet
containing a thin layer of butter and oil over moderate heat; add
crushed unpeeled garlic cloves. When the garlic begins to
brown, add the vegetables - here, green beans. Cook for 3 to 4
minutes, shaking the pan constantly; add bread crumbs (right)
and cook for a moment more, until the crumbs have browned.
Pan frying a mixture of vegetables. Cut the
vegetables - here, raw scallions, mushrooms, asparagus and
celery, along with parboiled artichoke bottoms - into smal l, thin
pieces. Place them in a pan in which c fil m of oi l has been heated to
the sizzling point. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes over moderate heat,
shaking the pan every few seconds. Season with a persillade and
freshly squeezed lemon juice(right).
Stir Frying in a Wok
Stir frying- pan frying done Chinese
style-uses very high heat and very
brief cooking to produce vegetables that
are almost as crisp as when they were
raw. Quick-cooking vegetables such as
summer squashes and asparagus need
no more advance preparation than thin
slicing. Slower-cooking root vegetables
such as turnips can be stir fried if cut
finely and parboiled briefly.
For stir frying, the oil may be flavored
ahead of time with fresh ginger or, as
here, with garlic cloves, but these sea-
sonings must be removed almost imme-
diately to prevent them from burning.
At the end of cooking, the oil may be
turned into a sauce by adding 1 tea-
spoon [5 ml.] of cornstarch mixed with 1
tablespoon [15 ml.] of water.
The best pan to use for stir frying is a
carbon-steel wok (right). Its small bot-
tom area enables the cook to keep the
vegetables well coated while using a
minimum of oil; its curving sides make
it easy to keep the vegetables moving.
A Shield for Fragile Vegetables
Sliced cucumbers, summer squashes or
the green tomatoes shown below are
all fragile vegetables that exude their
moisture when heated. To keep them in-
tact for pan frying, these vegetables can
be dipped in a coating that will seal in
l
Coating the slices. Press both
sides of each tomato slice into the
coating - in this case, cornmeal. Let
the slices dry on a rack for a few minutes.
Stir frying. Coat a heated wok with oil. When the oil almost
smokes, add peeled garlic cloves, removing them as they begin to
brown - after about 1 0 seconds (left). Add the vegetabl e-
here, broccoli florets and sliced, peeled broccoli stems - and flip it
constantly(right) until the pieces become tender. Broccol i will be
ready to serve in about 3 minutes.
their moisture and, at the same time,
brown to a crisp crust.
Preparations for coating are simple:
cut the rinsed, unpeeled, raw vegeta-
bles into 'h-inch [1-cm.] slices that will
cook quickly. The cut surfaces will be
2
Pan frying the slices. Heat a thin
film of fat - here, rendered bacon fat-
in a shallow pan over moderate heat.
Add the coated slices.
moist enough to make the coating ad-
here, so the coating may be a simple
one-flour, dried bread crumbs, corn-
meal or cracker crumbs. Season the
coating with salt and pepper and, if you
wish, pulverized herbs.
3
Turning the slices. When the
bottoms are lightly browned, turn the
slices with tongs or a spatula. Cook
until the second side is browned.
51
FRYING
A Crisp Cake of Shredded Potato
If you shred vegetables instead of slicing
them for pan frying, they will be mallea-
ble and so easily penetrated by heat that
you can fry them in a solid mass. Most
shredded vegetables must be combined
with a batter to give them body and hold
them together; they then are fried as
pancakes (box, below) . Shredded pota-
toes, however, have an abundance of nat-
ural starch to hold them together and no
other binding is required if they are
pressed together to form a paillasson, or
straw cake (right; recipe, page 118) .
The straw cake illustrates a variation
of the basic frying technique. The skillet
is covered for half the cooking time so
that the steam that rises from the vegeta-
bles when they are heated helps to cook
them, producing a soft, moist interior.
During the steaming phase, excess mois-
t ure that condenses on the underside of
the pan lid must be wiped off from time to
time so that it does not drip onto the cake
and make it soggy. The cake is then
turned over and fried uncovered. During
this phase, it develops a crisp crust.
Although apaillasson is composed pri-
marily of potatoes, you can vary its taste
by sandwiching different ingredients be-
tween layers of potatoes. Use shredded
carrots or cheese, sliced, precooked arti-
choke bottoms, chopped onions, or one of
the flavorings demonstrated on page 33.
52
Old-fashioned Potato Pancakes
Shredded vegetables such as spinach
(recipe, page 102) often are added to bat-
ter and fried to produce pancakes with a
mild vegetable flavor. Starchy potatoes,
however, can become pancakes with the
simple addition of egg and a little fl our
to bind them and give t hem body.
Successful potato pancakes (recipe,
page 120) require thoroughly dried po-
tato shreds, since excess moisture will
make the mixture too thin. Press the
shredded potatoes in a sieve to drain
them, as shown here, or wring them dry
in a towel. Work quickly: potatoes turn
gray when exposed to the air.
For a different flavor, add shredded
cheese, grated onion or fresh, chopped
herbs to the potato mixture.
1
Preparing the potatoes. Shred
peeled potatoes with a rotary shredder
(top). Rinse the shreds in cold water,
then drain; repeat both steps. Place the
shreds on a towel and roll them up as
tightly as you can (above) to dry them.
l
Making the batter. Mix eggs and
flour in a bowl. Peel and shred the
potatoes and put the shreds in a sieve.
Press the shreds to remove their liquid
(above); stir them into the egg mixture.
2
Forming the cake. Over a
medium-to-low heat, melt enough butter
to form a thick coating on the bottom
of a heavy, shallow skillet. Put the potato
shreds into the pan. Gently press them
with a fork to form a single, firm cake.
2
Forming pancakes. Heat Y4 inch
[6 mm.] of fat or oil in a skillet over
medium heat. When the fat sizzles,
drop in spoonfuls of the potato batter.
Flatten the batter into thin cakes about
5 inches [13 em.] in diameter.
3
Cooking the first side. Sal t and
pepper the cake. To prevent it from
slicking to the pan, distribute thi ck
slices of butter around its edges(above).
Cover and cook for about 20 minutes,
removing the lid two or three times to
wipe off condensation on its underside.
When the edges of the cake begin to
brown, shake the pan to loosen the cake
or loosen it with a spatula.
3
Turning the pancakes. After
about2 minutes, when the pancake
bottoms brown, turn the cakes
over(above) . Brown the second side,
then remove the pancakes and drain
them on paper towels.
4
Turning the cake. Dry the underside of the pan li d and hold it
lightly on the pan; turn pan and lid over together so that the cake
falls gently onto the lid. If the skillet you are using does not have
a flat lid, use a fl at plate instead. Return the pan to the heat, melt a
littl e more butter in it and slide the cake, uncooked side down,
from the lid back into the pan (above). Fry the cake, uncovered, for
about 15 minutes to brown the uncooked side.
53
FRYING
Mixing and Molding CroqueHes
A cooked vegetable-finely chopped or
pureed, and bound with butter, cream,
egg yolks or a thick sauce-can be mold-
ed into small cylinders or balls, then
coated with egg and bread crumbs, and
deep fried to produce croquettes (from the
French verb croquer, "to crunch").
Crunchy outside, soft and moist inside,
croquettes are an ideal way to serve pota-
toes (recipe, page 118) . Pureed potatoes
require only a light binding with egg and
butter to hold their shape when molded.
Pureed cauliflower, too, can be made into
croquettes; although, since it has less
body than potatoes, cauliflower must be
bound with a stiff sauce-such as a white
sauce (recipe, page 165) -that will help
the croquettes hold their shape. Other
vegetables-notably green beans, car-
rots and broccoli-that may have too
thin a consistency when pureed to hold
their shape can be chopped or sliced, then
combined with potatoes.
You can add chopped leftover meat,
grated cheese or bread crumbs to any cro-
quette mixture. And you can season it
with mixed herbs, onion, or a flavoring
such as duxelles or persillade (page 33).
3
54
Coating the croquettes. Take a
spoonful of the chi lled mixture for each
croquette and roll it on a floured
surface, gently shaping it by hand into a
cylinder(above). Dip each croquette
in beaten egg, then roll it in bread
crumbs. Set the croquettes aside for
about 1 hour to dry and firm the coating.
l
Preparing the vegetable. Boil the
vegetable - here, potatoes - until it
is just done. Puree it (pages 44-45) and,
to give the vegetable a light texture, push
2
Firming the croquettes. In a
mixing bowl, combine the warm puree
with the binding ingredients- here,
it wi th a pestle through a fine sieve.
egg yolks and butter - and with
seasonings. Spread the mixture thinly
on a platter and put it in the refrigerator
for about 1 hour to make the puree
4
fi rm and easier to shape.
Frying. Fill a deep-frying pan with enough fat or oil to cover the
croquettes and place over moderate heat. If you do not have a
deep-frying thermometer, test the temperature by dropping a
bread cube into the pan; if the cube browns wi thin a minute, the fat
is hot enough- 375F. [190C.]. Gently drop in the
croquettes - do not crowd the pan - and increase the heat to
maintain the temperature. Turn the croquettes to brown them
evenly. When they are well browned, remove them wi th a wi re
spoon (above) and drain them on paper towels.
Doing Justice to French Fries
There are several ways to prepare pota-
toes for French frying. Some cooks wash
the potatoes beforehand, as shown here,
to remove their surface starch, and then
dry them to keep them from spluttering
in the hot fat. Some cooks simply wipe
unwashed potatoes with a towel, and oth-
er cooks neither wash nor dry them. Un-
washed potatoes will be browner than
washed ones when fried, but will tend to
stick together in the hot fat.
When it comes to the actual frying,
there are two different approaches. Pota-
toes can be fried once, as in this demon-
stration, in fat heated to 375 F. [190 C.].
Or they can be fried twice: first in 360 F.
[185 C.] fat, to cook them through with-
out browning, then a second time, just
before serving, in very hot fat-390 F.
[195 C.]. The second frying browns the
potatoes quickly and may make them
puff up. Either way, cook the French fries
in small batches, so that the temper ature
of the fat does not fall too much as each
new batch of potatoes is added to the
deep-frying pan.
2
Heating the fat. Put enough fat or
oil into a deep-frying pan to immerse a
small batch of potatoes; do not fi ll the
pan to more than half its depth. Place the
pan over moderate heat. You can test
the fat' s temperature bf touching the end
of a raw potato to it: i the potato
sizzles(above), the fat is hot enough for
frying - 375F. [190C.].
l
3
Preparing the potatoes. Peel the potatoes- mealy baking
ones (page 12) are best suited for frying- and cut each one
lengthwise into slices about Y2 inch [1 em.] thick. Cut each slice
into strips Y2 inch thick (left). Rinse the potatoes in plenty of
cold water(center) , rubbing them gently with your fingers to
remove their surface starch. Finally, dry the potatoes thoroughly in
a kitchen towel (right) or with paper towels.
Adding the potatoes. Lower an
empty deep-frying basket into the hot fat
to coat it, so that the potatoes will not
stick to its wires as they fry. Lift out the
basket, add a batch of potatoes and
carefully lower them into the fat.
4
Frying. Leave the potatoes in the fat
for 8 to 10 minutes, adjusting the heat to
maintain a constant, gentle sizzling in
the pan. When the potatoes are golden,
lift the basket and hold it over the pan
to drain. Empty the basket onto several
layers of paper towels, which will soak
up excess fat. Fold the towels over the
French fries to keep them warm.
55
FRYING
Six Forms for Deep-fried Potatoes
Shoestrings or straw potatoes. Peel the potatoes, cut
them into large pieces and shred them using one of three devices:
the large-holed drum of a rotary groter(/eft), the large-holed
disk of a rotary shredder(poge 52) or the shredding disk of a food
processor (page 45) . Rinse the shoestrings well to wash off
surface starch; then dry them thoroughly and deep fry a small batch
at a time (page 55) in very hot fat until they are crisp and golden.
Potato chips. Wafer-thin potato chips are fashioned most
easily with a mandolin. Adjust the mandolin's slicing blade to the
thinnest cutting width. Press one side of a peeled potato against
the mandolin with the palm of your hand. Slide the potato down the
frame repeatedly to cut the slices, keeping your fingers spread
for sofety(left) . Soak the slices in water for a few minutes, dry them
thoroughly and then deep fry them until they are crisp.
56
Matchstick potatoes. Peel the potatoes and cut them
lengthwise into slices about Ys inch [3 mm.] thick. Stack a few sl ices
at a time and cut them lengthwise again into strips about Ys inch
wide(left). Rinse the strips and dry them thoroughly. Deep fry them
in small batches in very hot fat until they are golden.
Potato waffles. Use the corrugated slicing blade of a
mandolin. Slide a peeled potato lengthwise down the mandolin to
remove a slice and cut a ridged pattern. Then rotate the potato
90 and slide it down the mandolin crosswise to produce a thin slice
with ridges cut on both sides, but in opposite directions (left) .
Repeat, rotating the potato after each waffle-cut slice. Rinse, then
dry the waffles well before deep frying them.
Potato shavings. Remove the skins of the potatoes and, with Potato spirals. Peel medium-sized potatoes and form each
a vegetable peeler, pore each potato lengthwise into long, thin
shovings(/eft). Since the shavings will be too fragile for thorough
washi ng and drying, let them drop into a bowl of cold water as you
pore them; that way some of the surface starch will be washed
off with a minimum of handling. Gently pot the shavi ngs dry with
paper towels before you deep fry them.
into a cylinder. If you do not hove a device for making potato
spirals, shape the potatoes as follows: push a trussing needle,
as here, or a skewer through the long axis of each cylinder. With a
poring knife, cut one end of the potato cylinder down to the
needle. Keeping the blade of the knife against the needle, rotate
the potato, cutting around it in a spiral as it turns(left), until the
knife reaches the other end. Remove the needle. Rinse and dry the
spirals, and deep fry them until they are cri sp.
Choosing the Right Oil or Fat
Two factors must be weighed in choos-
ing a proper fat or oil for deep frying
vegetables: heat tolerance and flavor.
First, and most important, any fat or oil
used must be of a kind that will not
smoke or burn when it is heated totem-
peratures of 375 F. [190 C.] or more.
Among the fats and oils that tolerate
high heat, some impart a distinctive
taste to the foods cooked in them, while
others have almost no flavor. Addition-
ally, of course, the costs and storage life
of fats and oils vary.
Pure olive oil has the richest flavor,
but it is costly and its smoking point is
too low for most deep frying. Other veg-
etable oils-from corn, soy beans, sun-
flower seeds and peanuts-stand up
well to high temperatures. Many chefs
prefer peanut oil: its faint flavor does
not mask that of t he vegetables, its
smoking point is 425 F. [220 C.], it is
fairly inexpensive and it stores well.
Many commercial cooking oils are
clear, flavorless blends of several vege-
table oils and most produce satisfactory,
if undistinctive, results in deep frying.
A void oils that are sold as "salad oils."
Their smoking points are too low for
deep frying and heat makes them turn
rancid quickly.
Most animal fats-especially butter,
chicken fat and goose fat-have burn-
ing points too low for deep frying. The
exceptions are suet and lard, the fats
from beef kidney and pork, respectively.
Both are inexpensive and store well but
they have distinctive flavors that may
not suit every palate.
To keep fats and oils fresh, store them
in airtight containers in a cool, dark
place. Do not use any fat or oil whose
smell or taste has changed-that is
usually a sign of rancidity.
In using oil or fat for deep frying, pour
in, or melt, enough to immerse the food
completely but, to prevent dangerous
spattering, fill the pan no more than
half full. Use a heavy pan, preferably
deeper than it is wide: the more surface
area exposed to air, the more quickly
the oil or fat reaches its smoking point.
A removable basket is convenient for
lifting foods such as French fries (page
55) in and out of the pan. But the fragile
potato shapes described here or vegeta-
bles that are deep fried in batter (pages
58-59) might be damaged if crowded in
a basket. Remove and drain such foods
with a wire skimmer.
After deep frying, oil or fat can be re-
used, although its smoking point will be
lower each time. Let the oil cool, then
strain it into a container through a fun-
nel that has been lined with a double
thickness of cheesecloth. Straining re-
moves food particles that would burn
when the fat is reheated; the particles
would also speed spoilage.
57
FRYING
Sealing in Moistness
Vegetables other than potatoes will dry
out rapidly in the very hot oil or fat that
deep frying requires: their natural mois-
ture- unlike that of potatoes-is not
bound in by starch. You can protect a
vegetable's moistness during deep fry-
ing, however, by sealing it in with a
starchy batter (box, below). The result is
a fritter-a vegetable encased in a crisp,
delicious coating.
Almost any vegetable, ranging from
fragile spinach and chard to sturdy green
beans and cauliflower, can be deep fried
this way. The great French chefEscoffier
even applied the method to tomatoes
(recipe, page 142). You may prefer to fry
only one kind of vegetable at a time; fried
onions, because of their strong flavor, are
usually done alone. Or you can combine
many vegetables: here, cauliflower, broc-
coli, artichoke bottoms, zucchini, mush-
rooms, scallions and sorrel.
Whether you deep fry one vegetable or
many, each type must be properly pre-
pared ahead of time to ensure that it is
easy to handle and easy to coat with bat-
58
A Fritter Batter
To ensure that it will coat the vegetable
pieces evenly, fritter batter should be
made well in advance offrying. It must
stand undisturbed-or rest, as this pro-
cedure is called- for about an hour at
room temperature so the flour absorbs
the liquid and thickens the batter.
l
Combining the ingredients. Sift
flour and salt into a bowl. Make a well in
the flour and pour in oil, egg yolks and
liquid - here, beer. Whisk the
ingredients, starting in the well and
working toward the bowl edges(above).
ter. Leave small vegetables whole-the
mushrooms, scallions and sorrel leaves
pictured here are simply cleaned and
trimmed. Divide large vegetables into
pieces: broccoli and cauliflower should be
broken into small clusters or florets; arti-
choke bottoms should be quartered and
zucchini cut lengthwise into thin slices.
Because firm, dense-textured vegeta-
bles of any size will not cook through in
the time that it takes the batter to crisp,
they should be tenderized by precooking.
The cauliflower, broccoli and artichoke
bottoms shown here have been parboiled.
Green and wax beans, carrots and pars-
nips would require the same treatment.
After parboiling, but before deep fry-
ing, you can give any bland or sweet
vegetable a sharper flavor by marinating
it. In this demonstration, the marinade is
composed of lemon juice, olive oil and
mixed fresh herbs. You could substitute
wine for lemon juice, choose a milder-
tasting vegetable oil, or spice the mix-
ture with soy sauce, mustard, ginger
or-discreetly- cayenne pepper.
The batter shown here (recipe, page
167) contains flour, salt, egg yolks and
oil - plus beer and beaten egg whites,
which give the batter lightness. If you
prefer, however, you can use plain wa-
ter or milk instead of beer.
The proportions of the ingredients
2
Mixing the batter. Continue to
whisk the batter until it is smooth(above) .
Cover the bowl and let the batter rest
at room temperature for about 1 hour.
1
Marinating. Place all the
vegetables except the sorrel in a bowl.
Dribble olive oi l over them; odd lemon
juice, salt, pepper and fi nes herbes(poge
26) . Mix everything with your fingers
to coot each piece. Leave at room
temperature for up to 1 hour, turning
the pieces two or three times.
can be varied to taste. The addition of
more liquid will produce a thinner bat-
ter that is crisp and light when fried but
tends to spread out in the fat; a thicker
batter, on the other hand, will cling to
the vegetables, but will have a spongier,
more breadlike texture.
3
Adding egg whites. I mmediotely
before using the batter, beat the egg
whites until they begin to form peaks.
Use your fingers to fold the beaten whites
gently into the batter.
2
Coating the vegetables. Make the batter in advance (box,
opposite), and prepare the deep-frying pan: put just enough fat or
oil into it to allow the vegetables to float freely; do not fill the pan
more than half full. Place the pan over a high heat. Drop the
marinated vegetables, a few pieces at a time, into the batter
(left) and spoon over more batter to cover them completely.
Fragile sorrel leaves should be dipped separately, one by one,
just before you deep fry them (right) .
4
Turning the fritters. Do not fry more vegetable frit ters at
one time than can float on the surface of the fat without touching
one another. When the batter around the edges of a fritter is
browned, turn the vegetable over carefully with a fork(above) or a
skimmer so that it can brown evenly on the other side.
5
3
Deep frying. If you do not have a
deep-frying thermometer, drop a little
batter into the fat: when the batter
sizzles on contact, the fat is sufficiently
hot forfrying-375F. [ l90C.).
Carefully lower each coated vegetable
piece into the pan, using your
fingertips (above) or a wire skimmer.
Removing the fritters. When the vegetables are brown, lift
them with a wire skimmer that allows the fat to drain off. Drain the
fritters on paper towels and place them on a napkin on a heated
platter to keep them warm as you fry the remaining vegetables.
Garnish the vegetable fritters wi th lemon wedges and with
parsley sprigs that have been rinsed, thoroughly dri ed (but not
coated with batter) and briefl y fried in the hot fat.
59
-----3--
'13raises and Stews
Variations on a basic braise
Buttery glazes
Thickening a sauce
Stuffing vegetables with vegetables
The nonmeat stews
Snow peas that have been parboi led
for a few seconds are added to a stew of
young vegetabl es. Already cooki ng in
butter are small onions and wedges of
artichoke bottoms combined with
shredded lettuce- whose juices provide
cooki ng liquid for all of them.
The of
In stewing and braising, vegetables cook slowly in a relatively small
amount ofliquid. Unlike boiling (pages 36-47), where the aim is to cook
vegetables as rapidly as possible to conserve their individual tastes and
textures, braising requires slow cooking because the object is to mingle
the flavors of the ingredients. The inevitable transfer of some of the
vegetables' flavor to the braising liquid is not a loss since that liquid,
reduced during cooking to a light sauce, is as much an integral part ofthe
finished dish as the smooth, soft texture of the braised vegetables.
Although the dividing line between braises and stews is blurred,
most cooks make a convenient distinction: a braise usually consists of
only a single vegetable, cooked with a little added liquid; a stew is a
mixture of different vegetables, often cooked in their own juices.
The choice ofliquid obviously plays an important part in the flavor of
the finished braise. Veal stock provides a mild-tasting complement to
any sort of vegetable. Wine or other acid liquids such as lemonjuice will
help keep soft vegetables intact while they cook and, like tomato sauce,
contribute zest to the finished dish. Even plain water serves as a sattsfac-
tory moistener for strong-tasting or lavishly seasoned vegetables. Both
stews and braises generally include seasoning elements- garlic, herbs,
salt-pork pieces or aromatic vegetable mixtures such as mirepoix or
sofrito (page 33). Sugar is often added to counterbalance naturally acid
vegetables, such as tomatoes, or to produce a rich glaze. And for maxi-
mum enrichment, vegetables may be filled with savory stuffings before
they are braised.
Vegetables braised singly can be served either as an accompaniment
to meat or fish, or as a separate course; the blend of flavors drawn from a
mixed vegetable stew is best appreciated on its own. Certain vegetables
have a natural affinity for one another that is celebrated in stews such as
ratatouille -a melange of eggplants, tomatoes, zucchini, onions and pep-
pers (recipe, page 165). Stews of young vegetables (left, and pages 72-73)
include improvisational but equally successful combinations: whole
small onions, lettuce, peas or broad beans, and artichoke bottoms, for
example, supplemented with other vegetables according to the season.
Provided each vegetable is added to a stew at the right moment so that all
of them will be ready together, the choice is almost limitless.
61
BRAISES AND STEWS
Altering the Formula for DiHerent EHects
Braising always involves long, slow sim-
mering, but preparations and flavoring
ingredients can be altered to suit differ-
ent vegetables or to vary the effect of the
finished dish. Celery, celeriac, turnips or
Brussels sprouts, for example, are so as-
sertive they usually are parboiled before
braising to tame their strong flavors.
Fennel is often treated the same way, but
like mild-tasting zucchini or eggplant, it
may instead be browned in olive oil (Step
2, right) or butter. If it is, the finished
dish will taste strongly of fennel : brown-
ing seals the surface of a vegetable so
that its flavor is not lost in the liquid.
The braising liquid itself is a critical
flavoring element. Water is used here
with fennel (recipe, page 152) for a braise
that will taste primarily of the vegetable.
But fennel, celery (below, right; recipe,
page 150) and other vegetables often are
braised in stock or tomato sauce.
Other flavorings may be added. Un-
peeled garlic complements mild vege-
tables; a mirepoix (page 33) sets offthose
with pronounced flavor such as celery.
62
Enriching with Veal Stock
The ideal stock for braising vegeta-
bles is one that enriches them with-
out imposing too much of its own
character. It should also have so
much body that by the end of cook-
ing it will have reduced to a syrupy
sauce that needs no thickening.
A stock that is made from meaty
veal bones fulfills these require-
ments; thickened naturally by the
abundant gelatin that is dissolved
from the bones and sinews, it is full-
bodied yet unassertive in flavor. To
prepare the stock, simmer a meaty
veal knuckle with a bouquet garni
and aromatic vegetables for several
hours (recipe, page 166).
Peppers, onions and celery are
among the vegetables enhanced by
a veal stock. Fennel can also be
cooked in it, although the distinc-
tive taste of this vegetable will be
more evident if the braising liquid
is plain water (opposite, top) .
Fennel Braised in Water
l
Preparing fennel. Trim and string
fennel bulbs(page 21) , reserving their
feathery leaves to sprinkle over the
dish at the lost minute. Halve the bulbs,
as shown here, or quarter Iorge ones if
you wish to reduce the cooking time.
Celery Braised in Stock
l
Parboiling celery. Make celery
hearts by trimming bunches to a length of
about 5 inches [ 12 em.] and removing
the outer ribs. Cut off only the discolored
surfaces from the bases; if you cut too
deeply, the inner ribs will separate. Halve
each heart lengthwise. Parboil the
celery hearts for 8 to 10 minutes (above)
and then drain them well.
2
2
Preliminary cooking. Place the
fennel pieces, flat side down, in a heavy
pan coated with hot oil. Add some
garlic cloves, unpeeled to prevent them
from burning and becoming bitter.
Lightly salt the vegetable and cook over
medium heat for about 1 0 minutes,
turning the fennel (above) occasionally
until the pieces ore browned.
Adding the flavorings. Peel a
few onions and carrots and chop them
coarsely. Remove the cores (page 13)
before chopping the carrots, unless they
are very young. Strew the onions and
carrots over the bottom of a heavy pan
and loy the celery hearts on top.
3
3
Braising in water. Pour water
over the fennel (left) and gently scrape up
all the deposits on the bottom of the
pan. Bring the water to a boil, reduce it to
a simmer, then cover and cook for 20
minutes to l hour, or until the fennel is soft
and the sauce reduced to a thin
coating. Season with pepper and
chopped fennel leaves (above).
Cooking and serving. Pour in
veal stock just to cover the vegetables
(left); bring it to a boil, then simmer
gently, covered, for about an hour, or
unti l the hearts are very tender. If,
when the celery is ready, the sauce has
not reduced to a coating consistency,
put all the vegetables on a wormed dish
and boil down the sauce rapidly. Pour
it over the vegetables and sprinkle
chopped parsley on top (above) .
63
BRAI SES AND STEWS
Providing the Finishing Touch
Firm, sweet vegetables acquire an extra
richness when braised in sugar, butter
and liquid-a process known as glazing.
During the cooking period, the liquid
evaporates, leaving the vegetables coat-
ed with a shiny film of syrup. Here, car-
rots (right) and small white onions (box,
below) are used to show the basic tech-
niques. Parsnips, chayotes and beets are
also good candidates for glazing.
During cooking the glaze may be fur-
ther reduced so the sugar caramelizes,
coloring the vegetables a rich brown. The
treatment is particularly appropriate for
small white onions, as shown at right,
below. In this variation on glazing, the
onions are cooked in butter until they col-
or; then sugar is added, along with liquid
that prevents the sugar from scorching.
For both clear and caramelized glazes,
use a saute pan or skillet large enough to
hold the vegetables in one layer. If the
pan is overcrowded, the vegetables will
steam in the juices, preventing the evap-
oration that forms the glaze.
64
White-glazed Onions
Adding stock for flavor. To gloze
small white onions so that they emerge
pole in color, with their natural flavor
barely altered, follow the steps described
for glozing corrots(top, right). Prepare
the onions for cooki ng (page 23) . Add
sugar and butter at the beginni ng of
cooking, along with o little liquid to
prevent the sugar from caramelizing
and browning the onions. Use veal stock,
as shown here, instead of water to
enhance the onions' mild flavor.
Sugar-coating Carrots
l
Readying the vegetable. Prepare carrots for cooking as
described on page 13. Put the carrots in o single Ioyer in o saute
pan or skillet. Add about 2 tablespoons [30 mi.] of butter and 1
tablespoon [15 mi.] of sugar for every 1 pound [ Y2 kg.] of carrots.
Season with salt and pour in cold water until the vegetables ore
holfwoycovered(above). Bring the water too boil, then reduce the
heat to very low, cover the pan and simmer.
A Caramelized Brown Glaze for Onions
l
Cooking in butter. Melt o generous amount of butter in a .
heavy saute pan or skillet. Put in o Ioyer of peeled, whole on1ons
and season with salt. Cook the onions gently until they soften
and their surfaces color evenly. Allow about 20 minutes for the
onions to cook to this stage. Shake the pan occasionally (above)
to prevent their sticking; do not stir the onions, lest they fall aport.
2
Perfecting the glaze. By the time the carrots are tender - up
to 45 minutes or so for older ones- almost all the water should
have evaporated. Remove the lid and boil hard to evaporate all
the remaining liquid (above), shaking the pan to prevent the
vegetable from sticking. Take the pan off the heat and add a
knob of butter, shaking the pan so that each carrot piece is evenly
coated as the butter melts. Sprinkle the glozed carrots with finely
chopped parsley or fresh lemon juice just before serving (right).
Caramelizing the sugar. Scatter a spoonful of sugar over
the onions. Continue cooking for a few minutes over very low heat.
When the butter-and-sugar mixture begins to turn golden
brown, add a few tablespoons [30 to 45 mi.] of stock or water to
dissolve any caramel sticking to the pan and prevent scorching.
Shake the pan constantly until the onions are thickly coated with a
syrupy glaze (above), then serve them (right).
\
65
BRAISES AND STEWS
The Advantages of Braising in Wine
Vegetables braised with wine taste dif-
ferent from those braised in water or
stock-and not just because ofthe fl avor
of the wine. A second, less obvious, influ-
ence is the wine's acidity; it keeps vegeta-
bles firm during cooking so that they
may be simmered for longer periods than
usual, and long simmering means a more
thorough blending of fl avors.
The type of wine to use depends on the
vegetables that you are braising. Strong-
fl avored vegetables- leeks, for example,
or the red cabbage used along with chest -
nuts in this demonstration (recipe, page
110) - may be cooked in either red or
white wine. But mild-flavored vegeta-
bles such as zucchini or artichokes will be
overpowered by red wine; braise them in
a less assertive white. Any wine should
be tempered by an equal amount of stock
(beef, veal or chicken) or water . As al-
ways the wine should be of good quality:
its taste will be apparent in the dish.
3
Adding the cabbage. Soften
chopped onion slowly in the pork fat over
medium heat. Then add the shredded
cabbage, stirring to coat it with fat.
4
Pouring in wine. Cover the pot
and cook the cabbage over low heat for
1 0 minutes. Add the wine - red in this
case - and an equal amount of beef
66
stock or water. Stir in spices and the
reserved strips of salt pork.
l
5
Coring the cabbage. Halve the
cabbage. Hold one half upright and
cut down both sides of the white
triangular core, angling the knife so that
the cuts intersect to form a wedge
around the core (above) . Lift out the
wedge. Repeat for the other cabbage
half. Then shred the cored cabbage.
2
Preparing the salt pork. Remove
the rind from salt pork, cut the pork into
julienne and blanch them for 5
minutes in boi ling water. Drain the strips,
then saute them in an enameled
casserole over medium heat until they
render thei r fat and turn gold. Remove
the pork strips (above) and reserve them.
Braising the cabbage. Cover the pot and braise the
cabbage for 2 hours over low heat or in a preheated 325F.
[160C.] oven. Check the cabbage occasional ly and add more
stock or water if the liquid threatens to cook away. Stir in peeled
chestnuts and cook for 1 more hour, until the chestnuts are
tender and most of the liquid has been absorbed (above) .
A Rich and Creamy Binder
Any braising liquid may be turned into a
thick sauce by adding to it either flour or
a mixture of egg yolks and cream. If you
use flour, add it at the start of cooking:
long simmering will prevent the finished
braise from having a floury taste.
Egg yolks and cream, on the other
hand, can stand neither long simmering
nor high temperatures. You may thicken
a braise with egg yolks alone, but adding
cream will give the sauce a richer flavor.
In either case, add these ingredients just
before serving, and above all do not allow
the sauce to approach the boiling point
once you have added them. Otherwise,
t he egg yolks will curdle instead of form-
ing a smooth emulsion.
In this demonstration, egg yolks and
cream thicken a braise made of broad
beans, winter savory-an herb especial-
ly suited to beans-and salt pork. The
salt pork would be a fine addition to cab-
bage, onion or leek braises and the thick-
ener could be used to enrich braises of
cauliflower, carrots and turnips.
Blending a Liaison
Handling yolks and cream. First
blend the egg yolks and heavy cream
together in o bowl (above) and season
the liaison. If, as shown at ri ght, you use
only o small amount of braising liquid,
blend the yolk-and-cream mixture into
the braise directly - but slowly.
If you wont to thi cken o larger amount of
liquid, first worm the egg yolks and
cream by stirring into them o few
spoonfuls of the hot braising liquid.
l
3
Precooking the salt pork. Trim
the rind from o piece of salt pork, cut up
the pork, parboil it for 5 minutes and
drain it. Cook the pork gently in butter or
lord in o fireproof casserole; do not let
it become crisp. Add o bunch of wi nter
savory, oro little dried savory, and
shelled, peeled beans (page 15).
Mixing in eggs and cream. Remove
the pan from the heat and let it cool.
Prepare the yolk-and-cream mixture
(box, left). Pour it over the beans (above),
stirring gently to blend the sauce evenly.
4
Thickening the sauce. Return the
casserole to low heat; o fireproof pod
underneath wi ll help give you better
control of the heat. Cook foro minute or
two, until the sauce thickens slightly;
do not let the sauce approach o boil.
2
Braising the beans. Pour in water
to o depth of no more than % inch [6
mm.]. Add salt. Cover the casserole,
bring the water to o boil, then lower the
heat and simmer the beans very
gently. Braise them for 8 to 1 0 minutes,
shaking the casserole from time to
time to prevent sticking.
67
BRAISES AND STEWS
Leaf-wrapped Packages of StuHing
A sturdy vegetable leaf, wrapped neat-
ly around a savory filling and braised,
makes an attractive and edible package.
And each element of the assembly- the
leaf, the filling and the braising liquid-
is available for imaginative variation.
Among the leaves commonly used as
wrappings are the cabbage, Swiss chard
and vine leaves shown here. But spinach
leaves also are suited to the purpose, and
l
68
Preparing the leaves. Parboil
Iorge cabbage leaves for about 1 minute
to make them supple. Drain them well .
Use a knife to shave away port of the
thick, central ribs (above) so that the
leaves will be easy to roll.
How to Roll Three Kinds of Leaves
Vine leaves. Rinse preserved
grapevine leaves in hot water; parboil
fresh ones. Put stuffing- here, rice,
onions, peppers and parsley- on a
leaf's stem end. Fold over the end and
sides. Roll the leaf up from the stem end.
even fresh or dried inner husks of corn-
although themselves inedible-are used
in Latin America as envelopes for fillings
such as the mixture of chopped tomatoes,
corn kernels and white cheese in the box
below (recipe, page 131) .
Other fillings for vegetable leaves can
include many different combinations of
cooked ground meats, chopped vegeta-
bles and nuts, dried fruits, cheeses, and
herbs and spices. Most fillings are bound
together by bread or parboiled rice; these
ingredients also swell during cooking to
plump up the assembled packages.
The braising liquids for leaf packages
range from the tomato sauce (box, oppo-
site) used here to cook the stuffed cab-
bage leaves, to veal or other meat stock,
wine or plain water. Cooking times vary
from 45 minutes to 2 hours, depending on
the type of leaf and the stuffing you use.
2
Stuffing the leaves. Put a handful of stuffing - here, cooked
ri ce, chopped cabbage leaves, tomatoes, parboiled chord,
sauteed onions and salt pork-on the stem end of the leof(left).
Fold the leaf end and sides over the stuffing(center) . Roll up the leaf
from the stem end (right) to make a neat parcel.
Chard leaves. Parboil the leaves to
make them fl exible. Cut the stems from
the leaves (page 21 ). Place stuffing -
here, saffron rice, pine nuts, chopped
bacon and celery- at the stem ends
and roll up the leaves from those ends.
Cornhusks. Cross one parboiled
inner husk on top of a nother and put
stuffing in the center. Alternately fold
the lower and upper husks over the
stuffing to form a package. Tie it with
thin strips of the tough outer husks.
Braising the leaves. Holding the
packages carefully to prevent them from
unwrapping, put them in a casserole
with the free ends of the leaves
underneath. Pock them closely so that
they cannot unroll (above). Pour in
braising liquid - here, tomato sauce
and stock- until it barely covers the
packages. Cover the casserole and
cook in a preheated 350o F. [180 C.]
oven for about 1 hour. Serve the leaf
packages from the casserole, using the
braising liquid as a sauce.
An All-Purpose Tom a to Sauce
A sauce made from fresh, ripe summer
tomatoes makes an excellent braising
liquid for many stuffed leaves. Out-of-
season tomatoes lack flavor; use canned
plum tomatoes instead.
To make a sauce from fresh tomatoes,
chop them coarsely and put them in a
stainless-steel, enameled or tin-lined
pan. Add salt and herbs-basil, parsley
and thyme-and, if you like, chopped
onion or garlic (recipe, page 165). Taste
the tomatoes before cooking: the ripest
ones are naturally sweet, but others
have an acid taste that can be countered
with a pinch of sugar.
Simmer the chopped tomatoes gently,
stirring occasionally to prevent them
from sticking. When the tomatoes have
softened-this will take 30 to 40 min-
utes-push them through a sieve or pu-
ree them through a food mill to remove
the skins and seeds. The sieved sauce
should have the consistency of heavy
cream; if necessary, reduce it to the de-
sired consistency (right) .
To make a sauce from canned toma-
toes, pass them through a sieve, with
their juices, then season to taste with
salt, herbs, and perhaps sugar. Sim-
mer the tomatoes to reduce them to the
desired consistency. To shorten there-
duction process, drain off the juices be-
fore sieving the tomatoes, and save t he
juices for later use.
Testing for consistency. Reduce
the sauce over medium heat just until it
has the consistency of heavy cream
(above) . Watch carefully to prevent the
sauce from thickening too much.
69
BRAISES AND STEWS
A Vegetable Filling for Hollowed Onions
Many vegetables, including large onions,
peppers (opposite), eggplant and zucchi-
ni, are the appropriate size and shape for
stuffing and can be made into firm shells
that keep their shapes during braising.
Among t hese candidates for stuffing, on-
ions are perhaps t he least familiar; t hey
are usually thought of as a complement
to other foods or as a fl avoring. But if
onions ar e hollowed out, filled with stuff-
ing and braised in st ock, they make a fine
dish in their own right. As they cook, the
onions develop a mild, sweet flavor that
contributes to the tastes of both the stock
and t he stuffing.
Choose onions 3 inches [8 em.] in diam-
eter for the best results. Trim t he roots to
create a flat base for each onion to rest on
during cooking. Skin t he onions (page
23) and peel off any slippery membrane
so that you can grip t hem firmly when
you ar e scooping out the inner flesh wit h
a spoon ( r ight) .
Reser ve the scooped-out onion flesh.
Chopped and fried gently in butter , it can
be combined wit h a wide variety of stuff-
ing ingredients, including the mixture of
mushrooms and bread crumbs shown in
this demonstration.
2
70
Assembling the braise. Put the
onions in a shallow, ovenproof dish that
holds them snugly. Pour in stock - or
stock combined with wine- unti l the
liquid reaches nearly hal fway up the
onions. Sprinkle bread crumbs over the
stuffing (above); the crumbs will form a
crust during the final stages of cooking.
3
Stuffing the onions. Cut off the
top of each peeled onion and dig into the
center with a metal spoon. Scoop out
the fl esh (above) , leaving two or three
layers to form a solid shell. Spoon the
stuffing into the onions(r ight), heaping it
about Y2 inch [1 em.] above the tops.
Braising the onions. Cover the
dish loosely wi th aluminum foi l; do not
press the foil down or you wi ll crush
the stuffing. Place the dish in a preheated
400 F. [200 C.] oven. After 20
minutes, reduce the temperature to
350o F. [180 C.]; cook for 25 minutes,
and remove the foil from the dish(obove).
4
Finishing the onions. Continue to
cook the onions, uncovered, for up to 30
minutes, until they ore brown and the
liquid is syrupy. Baste them frequently
with the cooking liquid to keep them
moist. If the onions brown too quickly,
reduce the heat. Serve the onions with
the liquid poured over them (above) .
Packing Flavor into Peppers
Vegetables vary greatly in the amount of
preparation they require before stuffing
and braising. For example, while zuc-
chini and eggplant both must be halved
and hollowed out, the flesh of zucchini
can be scooped out raw with a spoon, but
the eggplant has to be precooked to soften
its firm flesh for easy removal. After
halving the eggplant, score crosses in the
cut sides so that the flesh will cook even-
ly; then saute the halves in olive oil. As
with zucchini, save the scooped-out egg-
plant flesh to add to the stuffing.
Peppers, which should be firm and
square-shaped to stand upright, need on-
ly the simple preparations shown on this
page. Like eggplant and zucchini, pep-
pers lend themselves to a variety of stuff-
ings. If you base your filling on leftover or
ground meat, the vegetables become a
substantial main course. Or use vegeta-
ble fillings, such as mushrooms, onions
or tomatoes, for a lighter dish. Rice or
bread crumbs bind the ingredients and
add bulk, and nuts or currants can con-
tribute contrasting flavors and textures.
l
Preparing the peppers. Slice off
the pepper tops, leaving the stems intact,
and reserve them (top). Pull out the
seeds and ribs(above). Parboil the
pepper shells and tops for 4 to 5
minutes, or until they are supple.
2
3
Stuffing the peppers. Prepare the
stuffing: here, sliced onion has been
sauteed in oil and simmered with rice,
chopped tomato, pine nuts and dried
currants (recipe, page 162) . Pack the
peppers in an ovenproof dish, then fill
each to its rim with stuffing (above).
Braising the peppers. Replace
the pepper tops. Pour water or stock into
the dish (left) . Cover the dish with foi l
and cook for 15 to 20 minutes in a 400o F.
[200C.] oven. Reduce the heat to
325F. [160C.] a nd bake 40 minutes
more. When done, the peppers will be
wrinkled but stil l intact (below).
71
BRAISES AND STEWS
Stewing Vegetables in Their Own Juices
In most mixed vegetable stews, the vege-
tables themselves render the liquid that
serves as the braising medium. The vege-
tables of some stews, such as ratatouille
(bottom), release so much moisture that
the liquid must be reduced (box, below)
before the stew is served. Stews com-
posed mainly of firm, dry vegetables al-
ways include one that renders moisture,
and generally need a little water as well
to help steam them. The stew at right,
for example, uses shredded lettuce to
help moisten onions, artichokes and oth-
er firm vegetables (recipe, page 164).
Almost any vegetable can form part of
a mixed stew, although different vegeta-
bles should be added at different times,
according to the amount of cooking they
need, and preliminary preparations will
differ. Tender young vegetables are usu-
ally added raw, but old vegetables should
be parboiled. Parboiling also attenuates
the strong flavors of vegetables such as
leeks and fixes the crispness and color of
snow peas, which would become limp and
gray if they were braised raw.
72
Reducing a Cooking Liquid
Producing a syrup. The vegetable
fruits in a ratatouille (right) release a
great deal of liquid as they cook. To
reduce this liquid to a sauce, do not
raise the heat while the vegetables ore in
the cooking vessel: the agitation
caused by fast boiling would damage
the vegetables. Instead, strain off the
liquid, pour it into a shallow saucepan
(left) and boil until it has reduced to a
syrupy consistency (right) before
returning it to the vegetables.
Mixed Vegetable Stew: A Melange of Young Produce
l
Cooking in butter. Melt a Iorge
chunk of butter in a shallow pot over very
low heat; if you use on earthenware
one, as here, protect it from direct heat
with a fireproof pod. Add the
vegetables that need the most
cooking- here, small whole onions,
quartered artichoke bottoms and
unpeeled garlic cloves.
2
"'
Stewing with lettuce. Mix the
vegetables with the butter, bury a
bouquet gorni among them and cook
them slowly, covered, while you shred
the lettuce coarsely. Add the lettuce to
the pot. Salt lightly, cover and stew gently
for about 30 minutes. Shake the pot
occasionally; odd a little water if you see
no syrupy juice in the pot.
Ratatouille: A Mediterranean Blend of Tastes
l
Cooking the onions. Peel onions
and chop them coarsely. Cook them
gently in plenty of olive oil until they
soften; do not let them brown. Peel, seed
and quarter ripe tomatoes and odd
them to the onions. Cook for a few
minutes more until the tomatoes
disintegrate, forming a liquid in which the
other vegetables will stew.
2
Adding eggplant and peppers. Put
a bouquet garni of parsley, thyme, leek,
celery and a boy leaf into the pot,
together with a few peeled, sliced garlic
cloves. Cut up the eggplants and
peppers and tip them into the mixture
(above). Salt lightly, cover the pot and
cook over low heat for obout45 minutes.
3
3
Adding snow peas. Plunge snow
peas into a pan of boiling salted water,
cooking them only until the water
returns to a boil. Drain them well. Slice
zucchini thinly and saute the slices in
butter for 5 to 6 minutes, until they begin
to color. Stir the drained, parboiled
snow peas into the stew.
Adding zucchini. Cut the zucchini
into large chunks, but do not peel them.
Add the zucchini chunks to the other
vegetables. Cook, covered, for another
45 minutes or so. Do not add any
liquid; the vegetables themselves will
provide ample moistening.
4
Adding the zucchini. As soon as
you have mixed in the snow peas, tip the
zucchini into the pot and add any
other quick-cooking vegetables you
have chosen. If you use young peas or
broad beans, add a little water to help
produce the steam that will cook them.
4
Straining off the liquid. Turn the
vegetable mixture into a colander set in a
bowl and allow the juices to drain
through. Reduce the liquid to a syrup
(box, left); meanwhile, discard the
bouquet, return the vegetables to the pot
and keep them warm. Season to taste.
5
Mixing in more butter. Stew very
gently for a few minutes to mingle the
different flavors and to complete the
cooking of the last vegetables added.
Remove the bouquet garni; season
the vegetables to taste. Turn off the heat
and add pieces of butter. Shake and
tilt the pot unti l the butter has melted and
mixed wi th the vegetable juices.
5
Preparing to serve. Pour the
reduced liquid back over the ratatouille
(above). You can serve the dish hot,
barely warm orcold.l f therotatovi//e is to
be eaten cold, let it cool and then pour
some good, fruity olive oil over it. Stir with
a wooden spoon to blend in the oil
without mashing the vegetables.
73
-----------4----

and 'rilling
The simple approach: baked whole
Mixed bakes: medleys of flavor
Gratins: straightforward or elaborate
Tips on puddings and souffles
Advantages of marinating
Belgian endive is lifted from beneath a
golden-brown crust, formed by maski ng
the braised vegetables (recipe, page
96) with cream and baking them.
Gratineing may serve to cook raw
vegetables, or it may be used for a
finishing step, as here.
Opportunities ,;nlimited
Baked whole and unadorned, vegetables develop mellow yet concentrat-
ed flavors. Buttered and broiled, vegetables take on an appetizing brown
color outside while keeping their just-picked freshness inside. Oiled and
grilled over a fire, they become juicy and tender while absorbing the
aromas of the smoke. And the imaginative cook can elaborate on these
simple bakes and grills to produce the most elegant of vegetable dishes.
Hollowing out vegetables and stuffing them is the most obvious
elaboration. Stuffings may be delicate or substantial, mild or strongly
seasoned; they can be made from leftovers as well as from fresh ingredi-
ents. The only limitation to invention is that the stuffing must comple-
ment the vegetable: soft-fleshed, moisture-rendering tomatoes need a
stuffing that will absorb excess liquid; drier vegetables such as arti-
chokes require a moist stuffing that will help baste them during cooking.
The mingling of flavors can be approached another way by marinat-
ing vegetables before broiling them or by wrapping them in foil, along
with seasonings, before putting them on a grill. Still another tactic is to
bake cut-up vegetables together to produce a composite dish. In the cov-
ered, mixed bake on pages 80-81, eggplant, artichokes and tomat oes
actually steam in their own aromatic juices. The demonstration explains
how to combine vegetables not only on the basis of compatible flavors,
but also for the moisture that some must contribute to prevent others
from drying out during baking.
Textures as well as flavors can be blended and varied by preparing
vegetables of almost all kinds, from spinach to turnips, in a gratin, pud-
ding or souffie. The ingredients for all three of these dishes are essential-
ly the same; how they are handled makes the difference. Depending on
the texture a cook wants, the vegetables may be sliced, cubed, julienned,
shredded, chopped or pureed. For a moist grat in, t he vegetables then are
simply coated with cream or a sauce and baked; they ret ain their own
distinctive textures while the coating forms a crisp crust on top of them
(pages 84-87) . If the sauce is enriched with eggs and the mixture is
cooked in a mold, the vegetables emerge from t he oven in a hearty pud-
ding (pages 88-89) . And if the eggs are separated so that the whites can
be beaten stiff before they are folded into the mixture, the result will be
an airy vegetable souffie (pages 90-91).
75
BAKING, BROILING AND GRILLING
Baking Vegetables in Their Skins
Cooking vegetables whole in their skins
is the simplest baking technique, ideal
for root vegetables as well as for eggplant
and winter squashes. All these vegeta-
bles have tough skins that protect their
flesh from the drying oven heat as they
cook. If whole bulbs of garlic are baked,
they can be made into the mild pureed
flavoring described in the box opposite.
Among these vegetables, potatoes are
the ones most often baked, undoubtedly
because they require the least prepara-
tion. Simply scrub them with a vegetable
brush and pierce their skins in several
places. The holes serve as escape vents
for steam that builds up inside the bak-
ing potatoes and might burst them.
Sweet potatoes should also be scrubbed
before cooking, but they need not be
pierced, since they do not produce exces-
sive steam. They create another sort of
internal moisture during cooking, how-
ever: their starch is converted to sugar
syrup, making the vegetables moist and
sweet. Since the con version will not occur
if t he potatoes reach too high a tempera-
ture, they should be baked in an oven
heated no higher than 375 F. [190 C.).
White potatoes, however, may be baked
at any t emperature from 325 to 450 F.
[160 to 230 C.].
When you bake an onion in its skin,
first slice off its root end to keep the onion
steady. Because sugary juices may leak
from this cut, place the onion in a shallow
baking pan (opposite, below right), and
add a little water to the pan so that the
onion juices will not burn.
Beets take t hree to four times as long
to bake as potatoes of comparable size, so
you may decide to bake them only when
you are using the oven for other foods.
Nevertheless, baked beets are so tasty
that it is worth heating the oven special-
ly for them. Their skins, while helping to
retain the beets' juices, are not thick
enough for protection against drying. To
keep beets moist, wrap each one in alu-
minum foil (opposite, below left).
After cooking, the inedible skins of on-
ions and beets are peeled, but potato
skins usually are not. All these vegeta-
bles may be served simply with butter,
salt and pepper. Potatoes and sweet pota-
toes may be enriched by scooping out the
flesh, mixing it with butter, cream and
seasonings, then spooning it back into
the potato skins for a brief reheating (be-
low, right; recipe, page 120). Or flavor
white potatoes or eggplants by inserting
bacon or garlic through their skins before
baking (recipe, page 138) .
Baking potatoes. Scrub the potatoes, pierce the skins with a Stuffing baked potatoes. After bo king potatoes - here,
fork and bake on on oven rock; in a 375F. [190C.] oven, they will
toke about on hour. To test for doneness, squeeze each potato,
using a pod to protect your hand from a burn; if the potato yields to
the pressure, it is cooked through. Gently roll the hot potato on a
counter to crumble the flesh inside the skin( above, left). With a fork,
punch holes in the top of the potato in the shape of a cross. Then
hold the potato at both ends and squeeze it until it pops open along
the cross to reveal the crumbl y flesh (above, right).
76
sweet potatoes - cut on oblong section from the top of each one
and scrape the flesh off the section. Scoop the flesh out of the
skin, leaving a Ioyer Y4 inch [6 mm.] thick next to the skin to hold the
potato in shape (above, left) . Puree the flesh with a fork, a potato
ricer or on electric mixer. Beat butter, cream and seasonings into
the flesh; the more cream you odd, the smoother and lighter the
mixture will become. Refill the skins with the mixture (above, right) .
Return the potatoes to a 400 F. [200 C.] oven for about 10
minutes until the tops brown and the potatoes ore heated through.
Oven-baked Garlic for a Puree
Bulbs of garlic, baked in their skins, de-
velop a mild, sweet flavor without a
trace of harshness. They also are easy to
peel and soft enough to puree. When
blended with olive oil, the puree can be
stored in a jar and used as a flavoring
with many meat or vegetable dishes, or
added to a vinaigrette (page43). A little
more oil, poured on top of the mixture
(far right), will protect it from the air
and enable you to keep it, refrigerated,
for up to three months.
To make 1 cup ['4 liter] of puree, you
will need 20 to 25 bulbs of garlic. Do not
separate them into individual cloves or
peel them; the skins keep in the flavor.
After baking, separate the bulbs into
cloves, peel the cloves and pass them
through a sieve. Combine this puree
with the oil to make a smooth paste.
Baking garlic bulbs. Wrap the garlic in aluminum foil
(above, left) and bake it in a preheated 375F. [ 190C.] oven for 1
hour. Then separate the cloves. Squeeze each clove- it will pop
out of its skin - and discard the skin(above, center). Puree the garlic
through a sieve and add olive oil-about 1 tablespoonful [15
mi.] to every 10 garlic bulbs- and salt to taste. Mix the puree well.
For storage, smooth the top of the mixture, cover it wi th a thin film
of olive oil (above, right) and refrigerate.
Baking beets. Wash each beet; to avoid losing juices and Baking onions. Arrange the onions, unpeeled but with slices
color, do not trim or peel it. Wrap each beet in foil and bake in an
oven, preheated to 325F. [160C.], for 3 to 4 hours. Do not
increase the heat to speed cooking; high heat will dry out beets
even in foil wrapping. Peel back the foil (above, left) and, with a
knife point, test a beet for doneness; the knife tip should penetrate
easily. Unwrap and peel each beet(above, right) before serving.
cut from the root ends to keep them upright, in a baking dish just
large enough to hold them in one layer. Pour sufficient water into
the dish to cover the bottom. Bake the onions in a preheated400F.
[200C.] oven until they are soft- 1 to 1 Y2 hours. Test for
doneness by squeezing the onions(above, left); they should
compress slightly. With a knife, peel off the outer skins (above,
right) before serving the onions with salt, pepper and butter.
77
BAKING, BROILING AND GRILLING
Hearty Fillings forT omato Cases
Any vegetable that can be stuffed and
braised (pages 70-71) can also be stuffed
and baked; the group includes eggplant,
large onions, zucchini, peppers and arti-
chokes (opposite) . Other candidates are
vegetables that cannot survive the slow,
moist cooking braising demands. Mush-
room caps, for example, would become
rubbery if braised, but are crisply tender
when baked. Tomatoes would disinte-
grate in a braising liquid, but hold their
shapes during baking (below, right) pro-
vided they are slightly underripe.
Choose good-sized tomatoes for stuff-
ing. Make sure your stuffing includes ab-
sorbent ingredients that will soak up
rendered tomato juices. In this demon-
stration, the stuffing is a combination of
corn, onions and parsley topped with
bread crumbs; a simple mixture of bread
crumbs andpersillade (page 33) would be
another good choice. With any stuffing,
dribble a little oil or melted butter over
the top to help it become an appetizing
brown as it bakes.
78
l
Coring and seeding the tomatoes. With a stainless-steel
knife, core each tomato by cutting a conical plug from the stem end.
Cut a thin slice from the tomato' s top (left). Gently squeeze the
tomato's bose to push out the seeds and juice (right). Use a finger
or a teaspoon handle to remove clinging seeds. Put the
tomatoes in on oiled, shal low, fireproof dish.
2
Stuffing the tomatoes. Fil l the
tomatoes loosely wi th stuffing, cover wi th
bread crumbs and dot with butter.
Worm the dish over low heat for a few
minutes, then transfer it to on oven
preheated to 375 F. [ 190 C.]. Bake for
30 minutes, basting with butter. Serve
when the tomatoes ore tender and the
stuffing has browned (below) .
The Art of StuHing an Artichoke
Stuffed artichoke recipes often call for
the cuplike shape of a turned artichoke
bottom (page 25), but whole artichokes
also can be stuffed and baked. Once the
outer leaves have been trimmed or re-
moved (right), a gentle thump is all that
is needed to loosen the artichoke's tightly
packed leaves so that layers of stuffing
can be forced between them.
Artichokes exude little liquid during
cooking and, since they require up to 1 Vz
hours of baking, can dry out in the oven.
To prevent this, stuff them with a moist
mixture that will provide some liquid. A
moist stuffing, incidentally, is easier to
press between the leaves than a dry one
would be. Here, bread crumbs soaked in
water are mixed with chopped anchovy
and apersillade (page 33).
Stuffed artichokes need frequent bast-
ing. A glass of white wine added to the
baking dish will provide flavor and serve
as a basting liquid: the thick bottoms
braise in the liquid while the tops bake to
a rich, crusty finish.
1
Preparing the artichokes for stuffing. Slice off the spiky
upper third of each artichoke. Snap off the stem and tough outer
leaves. Use scissors to trim off the tips of the rest of the leaves
(left). Cut a thin slice from the bottom to make a level base for the
artichoke. To loosen the leaves, hold the bottom and press the
artichoke firmly on the work surface(right) .
Stuffing the artichokes. With the aid of a spoon (above), Cooking and serving the artichokes. Baste the artichokes
2
press the stuffing between the loosened leaves; you may have to
open the leaves further with your fingers. When the artichokes
will hold no more, place them in an oiled baking dish and sprinkle
them with olive oil. Add white wine and place the dish in an oven
that has been preheated to 375 F. [190 C.).
3
with oil and wine from the baking dish about every 15 minutes.
Mature artichokes will be ready to serve in about 1 Y2 hours. Eat a
baked artichoke leaf by leaf, scraping off the stuffing and fl esh with
your teeth. Finally, scoop out the stri ngy choke, cut up the tender
artichoke bottom and eat it with a fork.
79
BAKING, BROILING AND GRILLING
A Fan That Melds a Mixed Bake
When you bake vegetables that have
been peeled or cut up so that their flesh is
no longer protected by their skins, you
must ensure that they will stay moist in
the dry heat of an oven. Almost any vege-
table can be cooked in liquid as described
on pages 84-87. But some vegetables-
notably vegetable fruits (such as egg-
plants, tomatoes and sweet peppers) and
summer squashes (such as zucchini)-
can also be baked without added mois-
ture because they render water during
cooking. When they are baked in a cov-
ered vessel, they will actually cook in the
aromatic steam from t heir own juices.
Certain procedures should be followed
if the vegetables are to steam success-
fully. The vegetables should be tightly
packed into their baking dish to conserve
as much moisture as possible-and to ex-
pose as little of their flesh as possible. A
little olive oil dribbled over them at the
start of cooking will keep them from
scorching before they begin to render
their juices. And t he cover to the baking
dish-whether it is a lid or a sheet of
aluminum foil-should be as tight as
possible to keep steam from escaping.
If you cut up several different vegeta-
bles and cook them together, their mois-
t ure and flavors will mingle as they cook.
A particularly attractive way of combin-
ing ingredients is to make the vegetable
fans shown here (recipe, page 137) . Egg-
plant halves ar e sliced so that they re-
semble fans when opened (Step 1, right);
good-sized zucchini can be treated the
same way. The fans are combined with
tomatoes and packed into a well-oiled
baking dish between layers of onions.
To protect the vegetables further-
and to add even more flavor- spaces be-
tween the fans can be filled with other
vegetables: the artichoke bottoms and
black olives shown here, parboiled celery
chunks or whole mushrooms. The egg-
plant- or zucchini-and tomatoes will
moisten these vegetables during the bak-
ing period; about an hour for eggplant,
half that for zucchini .
Vegetables prepared this way are good
hot, but they taste even better if they are
presented tepid or cold- one fan for each
serving-garnished with wedges of fresh
lemon as a first course.
80
1
3
Shaping the fans. Choose elongated
eggplants; v1ash them and lop off both
ends. Halve the eggplants lengthwise.
Place each half skin side up and slice it
lengthwise, making the cuts about Y3
inch [1 em.] apart and leaving the slices
attached at the stem end.
Stuffing the fans. Insert the
tomato slices, skin side up, between the
secti ons of the eggplant fans(obove).
In addition to making an attractive
presentation, this arrangement
ensures a minimum loss of moisture
during the cooking period.
2
Preparing the tomatoes. Halve
unpeeled tomatoes lengthwise, through
their stem ends; remove the tough
cores. Cut the tomato halves into thin
lengthwise sli ces(obove) that will fi t
neatly between the segments of the fans.
4
Arranging the fans. Coat a
shallow, ovenproof di sh with olive oi l
and cover its bottom with aromatic
vegetables - here, thinly sliced onions
and garlic. Li ft the fans (above),
supporting them from the bottom, and
place them in the dish skin side up,
packing them in without crushing them.
5
Adding other vegetables. Tuck
in other vegetables: here, parboiled,
quartered artichoke bottoms (page
25) and olives. Cover the vegetables wi th
onions and garl ic, then press down
gently to pack all of the ingredients.
Add bay leaves, mixed herbs and
coriander seeds. Dribble olive oil
over the vegetables (left).
6
Testing for doneness. Cover the
dish with aluminum foil and put it in an
oven, preheated to 450 F. [230 C.],
for l 0 minutes. Then lower the heat to
350 F. [180 C.] and cook for l hour
and 20 minutes more. Test for doneness
by piercing the fans with a knife
(below); the stem ends should feel soft.
81
BAKING, BROILING AND GRILLING
Gratins: Crisp on Top, Moist Underneath
Gratin means crust; all dishes prepared
au gratin have a crisp, brown topping
produced by baking or broiling them.
To form a dry, crunchy crust, sprinkle
food with grated cheese, bread crumbs or
both. To form a delicate, chewy crust,
coat the food with cream (pages 84-85) or
sauce (pages 86-87).
Many foods, including vegetables, are
gratineed only as a finishing touch; the
Belgian endive pictured on page 74, for
example, was braised, then coated with
cream and briefly baked to give color and
crispness to the top. But the making of a
crust can also be an integral part of a
dish's preparation.
The t rick in creating an integral gratin
with raw vegetables is to cook the vege-
tables without burning them, yet still
achieve an appetizingly crisp crust. To
this end, quick-cooking vegetables are
usually arranged in a shallow baking
dish-the gratin dish used here is the
classic choice-so that a maximum sur-
face area is exposed to the browning heat.
To heat the dish quickly and speed the
baking, the cooking process begins in a
hot oven; then the temperature is re-
duced to bake the vegetables to tender-
ness. The crust does not form until the
last few minutes of the cooking time, and
it may be necessary to raise the heat at
that point to develop the crust fully.
Vegetables that readily render their
own water may be gratineed without
adding any other liquid to the container.
For t he gratin demonstrated below (rec-
ipe, page 103), raw spinach is chopped,
packed tightly into an oiled gratin dish,
sprinkled with bread crumbs and baked.
Underneath the bread-crumb crust, the
leaves cook down into a delicious near-
puree. Other moisture-rendering vegeta-
bles that may be cooked this way include
leaf vegetables like Swiss chard, as well
as tomatoes, zucchini and eggplant.
Gratins may also be made from vegeta-
bles such as sliced artichoke bottoms ( op-
posite, below), which render compara-
tively little moisture. These vegetables
need added liquid to prevent them from
shriveling and drying out in the oven.
A Crumb Topping for Delicate Leaves
l
Chopping spinach. Strip the stems
from the spinach and wash the leaves
(page 9) . Drain the leaves thoroughly
and pot them completely dry with paper
82
towels. Hold them tightly together and
use o large, well-sharpened knife to
chop the leaves coarsely.
2
Assembling the gratin. Rub a
generous film of olive oil around the
inside of a gratin dish to prevent
sticking. Fill the dish with the chopped
spinach, pressing it down tightly.
Season well and sprinkle the top with
dried bread crumbs (above) .
Sandwiched between layers of moistened
bread, as here (recipe,page 158), the arti-
chokes cook gently; only the topmost
bread dries out to produce t he gratin.
Chopped onion, garlic, herbs and ancho-
vies may be added to the bread; mush-
rooms or young peas may be mixed with
t he artichokes; or vegetables such as ce-
leriac may serve as the basic ingredient.
Slow-cooking vegetables like pumpkin
or winter squashes require different han-
dling. In a shallow dish these vegetables
would parch and char before t hey were
cooked through. As shown in the demon-
stration opposite, at top (recipe, page
145), cubes of Hubbard squash, tossed in
flour, oil and spices, should be packed
into a deep dish and baked in a 325 F.
[160 C.] oven for 2 to 2lh hours. The slow
cooking and t he thickness of t he vegeta-
ble layer allow t he evaporation of just
enough moisture to reduce the squash' s
bulk and intensify its fl avor. The cubes at
the top of the dish brown to a crust with-
out the aid of bread crumbs.
3
Baking the gratin. To ensure that
the gratin browns evenly, dribble olive oil
over the surface. Put the dish in a
preheated 450o F. [230 C.] oven. After
10 minutes, reduce the heat to 375 F.
[ 190 C. ]. After 40 to 50 minutes, the
spinach wi ll be cooked through
beneath a golden crust of bread crumbs.
Keeping Slow-cooking Squash from Drying Out
1
Preparing the squash. Peel and
seed Hubbard squash, and cut it into Y2-
inch [1-cm.] cubes. Put the cubes in a
large bowl. Add a handful of persillade
(page 33) and toss the cubes in it. Sprinkle
the vegetables with flour and toss them
again, tumbling them between your
fingers until they are coated.
2
Filling the baking dish. Rub the
inside of a deep baking dish with a
generous amount of olive oil. Season
the squash cubes with salt and pepper,
tossing them once more to distribute
the seasonings. Put the squash mixture
into the baking dish. Trickle more olive
oil over the top of the mixture.
Layers of Herbed Bread to Conserve Moisture
1
Preparing the bread layer. Trim
the crust from a large chunk of stale
bread. Soak the bread in warm water
or milk for a few minutes; when it swells,
squeeze out the excess liquid (above)
and mix the bread pulp with finely
chopped onion, garlic and parsley.
Oil a gratin dish and line it with a little
more than half of the bread mixture.
2
Preparing the artichokes. Trim
artichoke bottoms (page 25) and cut
them into thin slices. {If you prepare
the artichokes in advance, immerse the
bottoms in olive oil to keep them from
discolori ng.) Lay the sliced artichoke
bottoms on top of the bread layer in
the gratin dish, and cover them wi th the
remaining bread mixture.
3
3
Baking the gratin. Cook the squash
mixture in a preheated 325 F. [160 C.]
oven for 2 to 2 Y2 hours. A brown crust will
form on the uppermost layer of squash.
The layers underneath should be soft and
juicy, but the pieces of squash should
still retain their shapes.
Baking the gratin. Cover the
artichokes and bread with grated
Parmesan cheese, and dribble oil
over the top. Put the gratin in a preheated
425 F. [220 C.] oven for 10 minutes,
then lower the heat to 375 F. [190 C.]
and bake for 1 hour. Serve with a fork
and spoon to keep the layers together.
83
BAKING, BROILING AND GRILLING
Gratins Moistened with Cream
Rich sauce and a crusty, golden surface
distinguish moist gratins. They may be
made several ways. The easiest of these
is to put prepared vegetables in a baking
dish as shown here, then cover them with
cream or with milk topped with cream.
The cream will keep the vegetables moist
during baking and provide a sauce for
them when they are done. Furthermore,
the cream undergoes a chemical reaction
during cooking: its natural sugar forms a
browned crust on top of the sauce.
This basic combination-vegetables,
cream and oven heat-can be endlessly
varied. The gratin of thinly sliced pota-
toes shown opposite (recipes, page 121) is
a case in point. In its simplest version,
called scalloped potatoes in America and
gratin dauphinois in France, its primary
ingredient is waxy potatoes (pages 12-
13), which retain their firm texture dur-
ing baking. The potatoes are cut into
slices lfs inch [3 mm.] thick, layered in a
buttered gratin dish, then covered with
milk and cream.
In the version shown, a cut garlic clove
rubbed on the inside of the gratin dish
adds flavor. But the flavoring could just
as easily be thyme or basil. You can add
sliced onions or carrots to the potatoes, or
even replace them with whole, peeled
and parboiled white onions. Here, bits of
butter are scattered across the gratin to
add richness, but scalloped potatoes often
are topped with grated cheese, which,
like the cream, browns to a golden crust.
Besides cheese, cream gratins may be
topped with bread crumbs, as in the tur-
nip gratin demonstrated at right (recipe,
page 127) . The crumbs provide a crisp
contrast to the sauce beneath and will
brown evenly during baking if they are
first sauteed in butter.
The turnip gratin is made with grated
vegetables instead of sliced ones, and
grating is yet another way to vary the
texture of a gratin. After grating, the tur-
nips must be salted and drained of excess
moisture, then briefly sauteed in butter
to dry them out even more before they are
covered with cream and crumbs. Zuc-
chini or yellow squash can be prepared
for a gratin the same way. So can pars-
nips, carrots and beets, although you
need not remove their moisture.
84
A Rich Finish for Grated Roots
l
Preparing the turnips. Peel the
turnips, grate them coarsely and salt
them. After 30 minutes, squeeze them
in your hands to draw out their moisture.
Cook the turnips in butter over low
heat, stirring to prevent sticking (above).
Finishing the gratin. Saute fresh
bread crumbs in butter over low heat until
they are golden. Use plenty of butter;
the bread crumbs will absorb a surprising
amount. Scatter the buttered crumbs
over the cream (above), then bake the
gratin in a preheated 375 F. [190 C.]
oven for 30 minutes. When the surface is
a deep golden brown, remove the
dish and serve the gratin bubbling hot.
2
Assembling the gratin. After 10
minutes the sauteed turnips wi ll be tender
and permeated with the butter.
Transfer the turnips to a buttered gratin
dish and pour in enough heavy cream
to cover them (above) .
l
Layering the potato slices. Rub the inside of a grotin dish
with a cut garlic clove. Let the garlic juice dry, then smear the dish
thi ckly with butter. Arrange potato slices in the dish in rows,
slightly overlapping both the slices and the rows. Sal t each Ioyer of
potato slices. Do not fill the dish more than two-thirds full.
2
Adding milk and cream. Pour milk into the dish until the
potatoes ore about half-covered, then top the gratin mixture with a
Ioyer of cream deep enough to cover the slices. To enrich the
gratin, scatter thin shavings of butter over the cream.
3
Baking the gratin. Put the dish in a
preheated 400 F. [200 C. ] oven. After
15 minutes, reduce the heat to 350 F.
[1 80 C.] and bake for a further 45
minutes, until the potatoes hove
absorbed the mi lk and the cream has
formed a golden crust over the
surface. The potatoes wil l be very tender.
Serve them carefully, lifting them out
with a fork and a spoon (left).
85
BAKING, BROILING AND GRILLING
Flour-based and Custard Sauces
Topping vegetables wit h a sauce before
baking them will yield a hear ty and
moist gratin. Sauces made with flour -
either a white sauce or the related ve-
loute-produce a light but substant ial
crust. Or an especially airy crust can be
created wit h cheese custar d sauce, which
puffs up like a souffie. Either t reat ment
will suit almost any vegetable, from the
char d r ibs and eggplant shown here to
cucumber s or leftovers. The only rule is
that t he vegetable must be partly pre-
cooked so t hat it will be done by t he t ime
t he sauce develops a cr isp surface.
White sauce, the basis of t he bechamel
of French cuisine, is made by cooking
flour and butter together over low heat
and whisking in milk t o form a lightly
thickened blend (box, top right; recipe,
page 165) . In a veloute, stock is substitut-
ed for t he milk. Be sure to simmer eit her
sauce for at least 40 minutes to eliminate
t he taste of r aw flour.
When white sauce or veloute is poured
over precooked veget ables and baked in
the oven, it will produce a thin cr ust
wit hout further embellishment. For a
r icher, t hicker crust, you can add a top-
ping of bread crumbs and grated cheese
(opposite, top) . Or you can sharpen t he
flavor of a white sauce by adding grat-
ed cheese. The result is a mornay sauce,
named after the 16t h Century French
cook who supposedly invented it. For
cheese sauce, use aged, hard cheese such
as Parmesan; it will not form gummy
strings when cooked. Cheese sauce pro-
duces an excellent cauliflower gratin,
and it suits celery or leeks as well.
A cheese gratin t hat puffs as it bakes is
made with custard-a mixture of soft
white cheese such as ricotta, plus Parme-
san, eggs and heavy cream (box, bottom
right; recipe, page 138) . The eggs in the
gratin-and steam from t he vegetables
cooking beneath the cust ard- for ce the
topping up int o a golden dome.
In the demonstration opposite, below,
t he custar d is poured over eggplant slices
layered with sofrito (page 33) and basil ;
zucchini may be substituted for t he egg-
plant . Watery vegetables like t hese are
sauteed in oil before the gratin is as-
sembled; other vegetables-carrots and
small white onions, for example- should
first be parboiled unt il almost tender .
86
Preparing a White Sauce
Adding milk to a roux. Melt the butter in a pan over a low
heot(left), then add the fl our( center). With a wooden spoon, stir the
mixture into a smooth paste, or roux. When the raux begins to
bubble, but before it can brown- ofter 2 to5 minutes- pour in the
milk, whisking at the same time (right). Bring to a boil, and
continue to whisk so lumps do not form. Then lower the heat and
keep the mixture at a bore simmer. Cook the sauce over very low
heat for 40 minutes, until it is thickened and smooth, occasionally
stirring and scraping the si des and base of the pan.
Mixing a Cheese Custard
Blending cheese and eggs. Place ricotta cheese and
grated Parmesan in a bowl with eggs, salt and pepper. Whisk the
ingredients together (left) and beat them into a thick paste. Pour
in heavy cream (center) and stir the mixture (right) until it is free of
lumps. The mixture should have a thick pouring consistency; if it
is too thick to pour, stir in a little more cream.
A Light, Thin Covering
1
J
Preparing the chard ribs. Cut Swiss
chord ribs (page 21) into 2-inch [5-cm.]
lengths and parboil them in lightly salted
water for 1 0 to 12 minutes, until they ore
cooked but still firm. Drain the ribs, then
tip them into a buttered gratin dish
(above), arranging them to form a level,
shallow Ioyer in the dish.
A Golden, Puffed Crown
1
Combining the vegetables. Cut
unpeeled eggplants lengthwise into
slices Y2 inch [1 em.] thi ck and fry them in
oil over medium heat until they ore
golden brown. Put half the slices in a
gratin dish and cover with a Ioyer of
sofrito. Add fresh, torn-up basil leaves.
Loy the rest of the eggplant on top.
2
2
Adding the sauce. Pour white
sauce over the chord ribs until they ore
just covered. Mix fine bread crumbs
with grated Parmesan cheese and
sprinkle the mixture on the sauce.
Adding cheese custard. Pour thick
cheese custard over the eggplant slices
and, if you like, sprinkle a thin coating of
bread crumbs or freshly grated
Parmesan cheese over the surface.
3
3
Baking the gratin. Scatter slivers
of butter over the cheese and bread-
crumb mixture. Put the dish in a
preheated 475 F. [250 C.] oven for
about 20 minutes, until a golden
brown crust has formed on the top. Serve
from the gratin dish (above).
Baking the gratin. Put the dish in a
preheated 450 F. [230 C. ] oven. Bake
for 1 0 minutes, then lower the
temperature to 375 F. [190 C.]. Allow
about 25 minutes more for the topping
to swell and brown, then serve the gratin
from the dish (above).
87
BAKING, BROILING AND GRILLING
A Decorative Pudding Baked in a Mold
The ingredients that go into sauced gra-
tins-vegetables, white sauce, eggs and
cheese-can be used in combination to
produce a different sort of dish: a molded
vegetable pudding. Creamy and light, a
pudding is striking enough to become a
separate course.
Vegetables for a pudding must be pu-
reed (pages 44-45) to create the proper
texture. The pudding demonstrated here
(recipe, page 111) is based on cauliflower,
but it could be made with almost any pu-
reed vegetable, either alone or in combi-
nation with others. Both zucchini and
spinach make especially good puddings,
as does the mixed puree demonstrated on
pages 44-45. Whatever the vegetable, the
puree will be thicker and more richly fla-
vored if the vegetable is parboiled, well
drained, then sauteed in butter to soften
it and evaporate excess water.
The puree is then further thickened
with a thick white sauce and eggs. The
sauce adds volume as well as body. The
eggs set as the pudding cooks, making it
firm. You can beat the eggs smooth be-
fore you use them, or add them whole and
beat them with the mixture. Finally, the
pudding is seasoned with spices and grat-
ed Parmesan cheese, which adds a slight-
ly sharp flavor.
Because the pudding will expand as it
cooks, use a mold big enough to hold the
mixture with room to spare-the mold
should be about three-quarters full when
you put it in the oven. To decorate the
surface of the unmolded pudding, first
smear the inside of the mold thickly with
butter, and lay thin parboiled strips of
differently colored vegetables-and per-
haps some finely chopped raw vegeta-
bles-in the butter. Chill the mold so
that the butter will harden and keep the
decorations in place when you ladle in
the pudding mixture.
Like most baked puddings, this one is
set in a bain-marie (page 91), and pro-
tected from the drying heat of the oven by
a sheet of buttered wax paper (Step 4).
The bain-marie helps the pudding cook
evenly, and prevents the eggs from set-
ting so quickly that the pudding becomes
dry and rubbery.
88
l
2
Preparing the cauliflower. Break a trimmed, washed
head of cauliflower into florets and parboil them for 4 to 5 minutes.
Drain the florets well, and saute them in butter (above) until they
are tender, breaking up the pieces with a spoon as they soften.
Then puree the cauliflower and measure the amount of puree.
Blending the ingredients. Whisk the pureed cauliflower
into half its volume of thick white sauce(below, left) . Add eggs, salt,
pepper, grated nutmeg and grated Parmesan cheese. Continue
whisking (below, right) until all the ingredients blend thoroughly.
3
5
Decorating the mold. Butter the inside of the mold, then
arrange a pattern of parboiled and thoroughly drained
vegetables - here, strips of carrots and green beans- around
the bottom and sides, augmenting the pattern with finely chopped,
row vegetables. Chill for 20 to 30 minutes to set the butter.
Baking the pudding. The pudding is
cooked when it is firm to the touch;
allow about 40 minutes. Let the pudding
settle for 7 to 8 minutes, then peel off
the wax poper (obove) and place a
serving dish upside down on the
mold. Invert the dish and mold together
and lift the mold off(right).
4
Filling the mold. Ladle the cooled pudding into the mold
(above, left). Top the mold on a work surface to settle its contents.
Loy a piece of buttered wax paper, slightly larger than the mold,
on the pudding. Press the paper against the mold's edges(obove,
right). Set the mold in a large pan and place the pan in an oven,
preheated to 375 F. [190 C.]. Pour enough hot water into the pan
to come two thirds of the way up the sides of the mold.
89
BAKING, BROILING AND GRILLING
Turning a Pudding into a Souffle
The ingredients for the vegetable pud-
ding demonstrated on pages 88-89 can be
used to make a souffle pudding possess-
ing some of the lightness of a souffle,
some of the creaminess of a pudding and
the golden crust of a gratin. Beaten egg
whites, folded into vegetables and white
sauce, give the dish its lightness. The
whites expand during cooking, causing
the vegetable mixture to puff as it bakes
in its mold. The pudding is then unmold-
ed onto a baking dish and coated with
a cream-based sauce. A second baking
puffs the pudding even more, and the
sauce browns to a crisp topping.
To keep the souffle pudding firm and
light, the vegetables used in it must be
drained ofliquid. Turnips or the zucchini
used her e (recipe, page 148) are salted,
squeezed dry and sauteed. Mushrooms
are prepared as described on page 33.
Spinach is parboiled and squeezed dry.
Your hands are the best tools to use for
I
squeezing vegetables dry-and also for
folding the vegetables and egg whites to-
gether, since fingertips break down few-
er air bubbles than a spatula would.
Bake the souffle pudding in any dish
that will be easy to unmold; a ring mold is
used here, but a charlotte mold or souffle
dish would do as well. If you wish to use
individual ramekins, decrease the bak-
ing time by about a quarter.
l
Preparing the zucchini. Wash and trim the zucchini and
2
Sauteing the zucchini. Melt a little butter in a pan and odd
3
90
shred them coarsely. Arrange the shreds in layers in a bowl,
sprinkling salt on each Ioyer (above, left). Leave them for about
30 minutes while the salt draws out their liquid. Then squeeze as
much liquid as you can out of the zucchini (above, right). Press
the shreds in a sieve to draw out more liquid, then squeeze again
with your hands. If the zucchini tastes too salty at this point, rinse
it in cold water and repeat the squeezing process.
the shredded, squeezed zucchini. Tossing it frequently(above),
cook over medium heat for 7 to 8 minutes, or until it is lightly
browned. Shake the pan to spread the zucchini evenly after tossing.
Making the basic sauce. Prepare
a thickwhitesouce. Remove the pan from
the heat and allow the sauce to cool
for a minute or two; then - still off the
heat - stir in the egg yolks(above).
4
Adding the zucchini. When the
mixture is smooth, season it with pepper
only; the zucchini will contribute
sufficient salt. Stir in the shredded
zucchini (above); continue stirring until
the vegetable has been evenly dispersed
throughout the mixture.
5
Folding in the egg whites. Whisk
the egg whites until they form soft peaks.
Pour the zucchini mixture down the
sides of the bowl and use your hands to
fold it gently into the whites (above) .
Do not blend the mixture too thoroughly,
or you will deflate the whites.
6
Filling the mold. As soon as the
egg whites have been incorporated,
pour the souffle mixture into a well-
buttered mold, filling it no more than two-
8
thirds ful l so that the pudding has
room to expand (above). Tap the mold
lightly to settle the mixture, then
smooth the surface of the pudding.
Saucing the souffle. Using the method described on page 89,
unmold the souffle onto a shallow baking dish (above, left).
Coat the souffle with heavy cream or, as here, with a sauce
mode by whisking the cream with a thick tomato puree that has
been seasoned with a pinch of sugar, salt, black pepper and
cayenne pepper, then sieved. Sprinkle freshly grated Parmesan
cheese over the top of the souffle(above, right).
7
Cooking in a bain-marie. Place the
mold in a bain-marie(pages 88-89) in an
oven preheated to 350 F. [180 C.].
Cook for 20 to 25 minutes, until the
surface is firm and springy to the touch.
Remove the souffle from the oven and
from the bain-marie, and let it stand for
10 minutes; it will shrink slightly and
become easier to unmold. Raise the oven
temperature to 450 F. [230 C.].
9
Finishing the souffle. Return the
souffle to the oven and cook it for about
20 minutes. It will swell, gaining more
volume than it lost while it stood before
unmolding. When the souffle has risen
and the topping has browned, remove it
from the oven and serve it at once.
91
BAKING, BROILING AND GRILLI NG
Broiling: Dealing with a Broiler's Intense Heat
Broiling is a simple process, but when
veget ables cook under a broiler's intense
heat-550 F. [290 C.]-special precau-
tions are needed to retain their juiciness.
Most vegetables are prepared for broil-
ing by being thinly sliced to expose a
maximum of surface area; this method
ensures that vegetables will cook quick-
ly, with minimal drying. Another way to
cook them rapidly is to cut them into
small pieces and skewer them (opposite,
bottom) . Mushrooms inspire yet another
variation; the caps can be stemmed and
then broiled stem side up to trap their
copious liquid (below).
Before broiling, soft vegetables-such
as eggplant, summer squashes and toma-
toes-should be oiled or marinated to
help keep them moist. Dense or fibrous
vegetables-such as celery, fennel, pota-
toes or carrots (opposite, top)- must be
coated with butter and repeatedly basted
to keep the surfaces from drying out be-
fore the interiors cook.
For any vegetable, remove the broiler
pan and rack, then preheat the broiler for
15 minutes to ensure a high, even tem-
perature. If vegetables brown too quick-
ly, lower the rack or oven shelf; do not
adjust the broiler temperature.
92
Moist Mushroom Caps
Preserving juices. Twist the stems
out of the mushrooms. Arrange the caps
stem side up on a broiler rack and put
a sliver of butter(above) or a drop of olive
oil in the center of each cap. Broil 6
inches [15 em.] from the heat for 4 to 5
minutes, until the mushrooms are full
of liquid, but still firm to the touch.
l
3
Oiling vegetable slices. Cut the
unpeeled vegetable-in this case,
eggplant- into slices Y2 inch [1 em.]
thick. Place the slices on a rack and brush
the top of each slice with oil (above).
Season the slices with salt, pepper and
freshly chopped herbs.
Adding a topping. To enhance the
flavor of a grilled vegetable, add a
topping of grated cheese or of thick-
not runny - sauce. The eggplant sli ces
shown here have been topped with
tomatosauce(recipe, page 165). Grated
mozzarella and Parmesan cheese
sprinkled over the tomato sauce add a
contrasting layer of flavor and texture.
2
Broiling the slices. Place the rack
about 5 inches [13 em.] below the
preheated broiler unit. Broil for 5
minutes, or until the slices begin to
brown. Turn each slice(obove), then
oil and season its uncooked side. Broil for
3 minutes more before adding a
topping (Step 3, below). Or, for plain
slices, broil about 5 minutes more.
4
Testing for doneness. Slide the
slices back under the broiler and cook for
about 2 minutes, or until the sauce is
hot and the cheese is bubbly. Test for
doneness by squeezing each slice
gentl y between your thumb and
forefinger (above). The vegetable
should be slightly resistant- soft on the
outside, but sti ll firm in the center.
l
Melting the butter. In a shallow,
fireproof dish placed 6 inches [15 em.]
below the heat, melt a generous
amount of butter. Cut vegetables into
thin slices and odd them to the melted
butter (obove). Here, carrots and fennel
are both sliced Ye inch [3 mm.] thick to
ensure equal broiling times.
Creating Vegetable Kebabs
l
Marinating the vegetables. Cut
quick-cooking vegetables into small
pieces of equal size that will cook evenly.
Yellow squash, zucchini, peppers,
mushrooms, scallions and small white
onions are used here. Soak the pieces in
a marinade(poge 58) for half an hour;
then push them onto skewers, packing
them closely together.
2
Broiling the vegetables. Tass the
vegetables in the melted butter to coat
them thoroughly. Slide the dish back
under the broiler and cook the
vegetables for 12 to 15 minutes, stirring
carefully every 3 minutes to keep them
coated wi th butter(obove). Add fresh
butter if the vegetables begin to look dry.
2
Broiling the vegetables. To catch
drippings, balance the skewers over a
shallow pan. Baste the vegetables with
marinade and slide the pan under the
broiler, 6 inches [15 em.] below the heat.
Broil until the vegetables brown - about
5 minutes. Turn and baste. Broil until
done, adding cherry tomatoes to cook
during the final 2 to 3 minutes.
3
Adding a garnish. When the
vegetables are tender-a fork should
pierce them easily - remove the dish
from the broiler. Before serving, garnish
the vegetables with freshly chopped
herbs - in thi s case, dill.
3
Serving the vegetables. When the
vegetables are browned and fork-
tender, remove from the broiler the pan
that supports the skewers. To serve, gri p
the end of each skewer with a hot pod.
Place the skewer tip on a plate. Use a
large fork to push off the vegetables, two
or three at a time (above).
93
BAKING, BROILING AND GRILLING
Protective Measures for Gri lling
Because the heat of the charcoal fire is
harder to control than that of an oven
broiler, vegetables grilled outdoors re-
quire particular care in both preparation
and cooking. One approach is to cut vege-
tables into slices inch [1 em.] thick
that will cook rapidly and be easy to turn
with tongs. Liberally coat the slices with
oil before cooking to help keep the juices
from escaping, and baste the slices fr e-
quently when they are on the grill to pre-
vent them from burning.
Another approach is to seal vegetables
in packages that protect them from the
drying heat; cooked this way, they will
partly steam in their own juices. Corn-
one vegetable that demands this treat-
ment-even provides its own package:
the husks, presoaked in water to prevent
burning and provide additional moisture
for steaming, may be tied around the
cobs, as shown at right.
For other vegetables to be grilled un-
der wraps, heavy-duty foil, sealed with
double folds at the top and ends, is the
best protection (below, right). The vege-
tables may be cooked whole or cut into
pieces, and you may grill several differ-
ent types of vegetables in the same pack-
age. For added flavor, put fresh herbs,
cooked bacon or pats of butter into the foil
bundles before you seal them.
Vegetables should be grilled 6 inches
[15 em.] above coals that have been al-
lowed to burn for 30 to 45 minutes until
they are covered with white ash. Cooking
times for grilling will vary with the way
you trim the vegetables. Wrapped in foil ,
fleshy whole or cut-up vegetables such as
eggplant, onions and tomatoes will cook
through in 20 to 30 minutes; beets, car-
rots and potatoes will take 45 minutes to
an hour. Sliced, unwrapped vegetables
such as summer squashes and eggplant
will take 15 to 20 minutes to cook.
Vegetable slices are done when they
can be easily pierced with a fork. Vegeta-
bles that have been wrapped in foil pack-
ages are done when they yield easily to
gentle pressure. Corn is done when the
husks are browned all over.
94
l
3
Removing the si lk. One leaf at a
time, carefully peel the husks down to the
stalk end of the ear of corn. Pull off the
threadlike silk inside.
2
Reassembling the husks. Return
each husk leaf to its original position.
Secure the husk around the cob by
tying string around the loose tips.
Grilling the corn. Soak the tied ears of corn in cold water for
10 minutes. Drain and cook on the grill for 25 to30 minutes, turning
every 5 minutes to ensure even cooking. The corn here is grilled
with oil-coated yellow-squash halves and whole new potatoes
wrapped in foili a belt of skin was removed from each potato to
serve as a steam vent and prevent the potato from bursting.
cfinthology

Drawing upon the cooking traditions and literature of more
than 24 countries, the Editors and consultants for this volume
have selected 232 published vegetable recipes for the Antholo-
gy that follows. The selections range from the simple to the
unusual - from an informal vegetable stew to an elaborate
souffle pudding.
The Anthology also spans nearly 200 years and includes
recipes by 140 writers, many of them distinguished exponents of
the culinary art. But there are also recipes by little-known au-
thors of out-of-print books held in private collections; a number
of these recipes have never before been published in English.
Whatever the sources, the emphasis is on authentic dishes pre-
pared with fresh, natural ingredients that blend harmoniously.
Since many early recipe writers did not specify amounts of
ingredients, the missing information has been judiciously add-
ed. Where appropriate, clarifying introductory notes have also
been supplied; they are printed in italics. Modern terms have
been substituted for archaic language; but to preserve the char-
acter of the original recipes, and to create a true anthology, the
authors' texts have been changed as little as possible. Some
instructions have been expanded, but in cases where recipes
may seem abrupt, the reader has only to refer to the appropriate
demonstration in the front of the book to find the technique
explained in words and pictures.
For ease of use, the Anthology is organized according to the
same vegetable categories described in the guide at the front of
the book-with an additional category for mixed vegetable
dishes. Recipes for standard preparations- stock, pastry, bat-
ter and basic sauces-appear at the end. The serving sugges-
tions and accompaniments included in some of the recipes, are,
of course, optional.
Apart from the primary vegetables, all recipe ingredients
are listed in order of use, with both the customary U.S. and the
new metric measurements provided in separate columns. The
metric quantities supplied here reflect the American practice of
measuring solid ingredients, such as flour or sugar, by vol-
ume-rather than by weight, as Europeans do. To make the
quantities simpler to measure, many of the figures have been
rounded off to correspond to the gradations that are now stan-
dard on metric spoons and cups. (One cup, for example, equals
precisely 240 milliliters; in most of these recipes, however, a cup
appears as a more readily measurable 250 milliliters or Y-lliter.)
Similarly, weight, temperature and linear metric equivalents
are rounded slightly. For these reasons, the American and met-
ric figures are not equivalent-but if you carefully use one set
or the other you will produce equally good results.
Leaf Vegetables
The Cabbage Family
Roots and Tubers
Pods and Seeds
Mushrooms
Vegetable Fruits
Squashes
Stalks
The Onion Family
Artichokes
Mixed Vegetables
Standard Preparations
Recipe Index
96
104
113
128
134
135
143
148
153
157
160
165
168
95
LEAF VEGETABLES
96

Braised Belgian Endive
To serve 4
8 heads Belgian endive, trimmed and 8
cored
10 tbsp. butter 150 mi.
sal t and pepper
2 to 3 tbsp. fresh lemon juice 30 to45ml.
5 slices bacon, cut into small strips
(optional )
5
Lightly cover the interior surfaces of a fireproof casserole
with 1 tablespoon [15 ml.] of the butter. Lay the Belgian
endive in the casserole and add the remaining butter, cut
into small pieces. Sprinkle with salt and pepper.
Put the casserole over moderate heat and, once the butter
has started to sizzle, reduce the heat. Cover and cook gently
until the endive is tender, 20 to 30 minutes. Alternatively,
cook in a moderate oven, preheated to 350 F. [180 C.], for 1
hour. Before serving, sprinkle with lemon juice.
Small pieces of bacon can be browned beforehand in the
casserole and left to finish cooking with the endive.
MARIE STONE
THE COVENT GARDEN COOKBOOK
Belgian Endive Baked with Ham
and Cheese
Chicoree mit Schinken und Kase
The technique of removing the bitter core of Belgian endive is
demonstrated on page 9.
To serve 4
8 large Belgian endives, cores removed 8
1 cup mil k Y4 liter
1 tsp. salt 5ml.
8 thin slices precooked ham, each
about 4 by 6 inches [1 0 by 15 em.]
8
8 thin slices Gruyere or Emmentaler
cheese, each about 4 by 6 inches [ 1 0
8
by 15 em.]
1 tbsp. butter 15 mi.
Arrange the Belgian endive in one layer in a 12-inch [30-
cm.] stainless-steel or enameled skillet, and pour the milk
and 1 cup liter] of cold water over it. Add the salt, and
heat until small bubbles appear around the rim of the pan.
Reduce the heat to low, cover the pan tightly, and simmer for
20 minutes, or until the Belgian endive is tender but not
falling apart.
Preheat the oven to 400 F. [200 C.]. Remove the Belgian
endive from the pan with tongs, and drain it on a double
thickness of paper towels. Wrap each head of Belgian endive
in a slice of ham, then in a slice of cheese. Generously butter
a shallow 8-by-10-inch [20-by-25-cm.] baking dish, and ar-
range the Belgian endive rolls in it side by side. Bake undis-
turbed in the middle of the oven for 10 minutes, or until the
cheese softens and melts. Serve immediately, directly from
the baking dish.
3
2
%cup
% cup
Ya tsp.
FOODS OF THE WORLDfrHE COOKING OF GERMANY
Belgian Endive Pie
Tortino di cicoria
To serve 3 or 4
heads Belgian endive, cored, 3
parboiled for 15 minutes, drained and
coarsely chopped
short-crust pastry (recipe, page 167)
eggs 2
freshly grated Cheddar cheese 125 mi.
milk 150 mi.
light cream 150 mi.
salt and pepper
grated nutmeg Y2 mi.
Line a 6-inch [15-cm.] piepan with the short-crust pastry.
Lay the Belgian endive in the piepan. In a bowl, mix togeth-
er the rest of the ingredients. Pour the mixture over the
Belgian endive and bake in a moderate oven, preheated to
350 F. [180 C.], for about 30 minutes, or until the cheese
custard has set.
JANET ROSS AND MICHAEL WATERFIELD
LEAVES FROM OUR TUSCAN KITCHEN
Belgian Endive, Flemish-Style
Endives ala Flamande
To serve 2 or 3
2 to 2 Y2 lb. Belgian endive, cored and sliced into 1 kg.
rounds Y2 inch [1 em. ] thick
4 to 5 tbsp. butter 60 to 75 mi.
salt
Butter generously a shallow ovenproof casserole just large
enough to contain the Belgian endive, and arrange the slices
in the casserole. Cover with a piece of buttered parchment
paper and seal the casserole tightly with a close-fitting lid.
Bake in an oven, preheated to 300 F. [150 C.], for at least 2
hours, or until the juices have evaporated. Turn the Belgian
endive out upside down onto a warmed serving platter as you
would a pudding: the endive should be golden brown in color.
Season with salt and serve.
15
2
2or3
6 tbsp.
MADAME SAINT-ANGE
LA BONNE CUISINE DE MADAME SAINT-ANGE
Stuffed Chard Rolls
Paupiettes of Chard
To serve 4
Iorge, perfect chord leaves and stems
Iorge leeks, including 1 inch [2Y2 em.]
of the green tops
small head Boston lettuce
sorrel leaves
unsalted butter
egg
heavy cream
freshly grated Parmesan cheese
salt and pepper
grated nutmeg
15
2
2or3
90 mi.
1
125 mi.
125 mi.
The chard leaves must be flexible enough to roll up; so, with
a paring knife, remove the excess rib from about the center of
each leaf down to the stem. Cut off the stems and reserve.
Bring a saucepan of water to a boil and, holding the leaves
with tongs, parboil each leaf until it is bright gr een and limp.
Spread out the leaves, rib side up, on paper toweling. Select
the eight best leaves for the paupiettes.
Slice the chard stems and the leeks into thin julienne
(matchsticks). Cut the lettuce, sorrel and unselected chard
leaves into chiffonade (fine shreds).
Melt 4 tablespoons [60 ml.] butter in a skillet, add Y3 cup
[75 ml. ] of water and gently stew the julienne and the chif-
fonade until the liquid has evaporated.
Mix the egg, cream, Parmesan cheese and seasoning.
Add the cooked greens.
Spread an eighth of this mixture down the center of each
paupiette leaf. Fold the long edges over the filling and roll up
each leaf. Place the paupiettes in a well-buttered gratin dish.
Add \lz cup [125 ml.] of water, and place a shaving of cold
butter on each paupiette. Bake in a moderate oven, preheat-
ed to 350 F_ [180 C_] , for 25 to 30 minutes. Baste two or
three times during cooking. Serve each paupiette with a
spoonful of the buttery juices.
JUDITH OLNEY
SUMMER FOOD
Chard Swiss-Style
Spinach or any other green may be prepared in this manner.
If a sharper flavor is desired, half of the grated cheese may be
Parmesan instead of Gruyere.
1 Y2 lb.
2
Y4 cup
1 oz.
2
3 tbsp.
Y2 cup
1
Y3 cup
4
1 tbsp.
3 tbsp.
To serve 4
chord leaves, parboiled for 5 minutes,
thoroughly drained and coarsely
chopped (about 4 cups [1 liter] after
chopping)
slices firm, white bread with the crusts
removed, broken into small pieces
milk
dried mushrooms (about Y3 cup
[75 mi.]), soaked for 5 minutes in worm
water, squeezed dry and finely chopped
leeks, white ports only, finely chopped
finely chopped fresh parsley or chives
finely chopped celery leaves
small garlic clove, crushed
grated Gruyere cheese
salt and pepper
freshly grated nutmeg
eggs
butter
olive oil
fine fresh bread crumbs
3f.t kg.
2
50 mi.
50 g.
2
45 mi.
125 mi.
75ml.
4
15ml.
45 mi.
125 mi.
Place the bread in a mixing bowl and pour the milk over it;
allow to stand until the milk is absorbed. Add the chard,
mushrooms, leeks, parsley or chives, celery leaves, garlic
and grated cheese. Season to taste with salt, pepper and
nutmeg_ Add the unbeaten eggs, one at a time, mixing well
after each addition.
Butter a baking dish generously, pour in 2 tablespoons
[30 ml.] of the olive oil, spreading the oil well over the bot-
tom of the dish_ Mix the bread crwnbs with the remaining
olive oil. Spread the chard mixture evenly in the dish and top
with the oiled bread crumbs. Bake in a moderate oven, pre-
heated to 350 F. [180 C.], for about 30 minutes, or until the
mixture is firm and browned. Serve from the baking dish_
LOUIS P. DE GOUY
THE GOLD COOK BOOK
97
LEAF VEGETABLES
98
Swiss Chard Pie
To serve 6 to 8
30 Swiss chord leaves, torn into pieces 30
smoll onion, chopped
4 tbsp. butter 60 mi.
2 eggs, lightly beaten 2
Y2 cup freshly grated Cheddar cheese 125 mi.
V3 cup stemmed, seeded and chopped 75 mi.
green chilies
Preheat the oven to 350 F. [180 C.]. Saute the onion in the
butter until transparent. Add the chard and cook for 1 min-
ute or until wilted. Be sure the chard is covered with butter.
Pour the chard into a buttered piepan. Mix the eggs with
the green chilies and pour over the chard. Stir with a fork.
Spread the Cheddar cheese on top and bake for 20 to 30
minutes or until firm.
MRS. L. V. HOUSEWRIGHT
THE GREAT GREEN CHILI COOKING CLASSIC
Gratin of Chard or Beet Greens
Polpettone di Bietole
To serve 4
2 to 2 Y2 lb. chord leaves or beet greens, 1 kg.
trimmed, parboiled, rinsed under cold
running water, squeezed dry and
finely chopped
7 tbsp. butter 105 mi.
3 tbsp. oil 45 mi.
1 lb. mushrooms, sliced, r ~ cup [150 mi.] Y2 kg.
dried mushrooms, soaked in worm
water for about 30 minutes, drained,
rinsed and roughly chopped
garli c clove, chopped
Y2 cup ricotta or other fresh white cheese 125 mi.
%cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese 50 mi.
salt
3 egg yol ks 3
Y2 cup dry bread crumbs 125 mi.
Melt the butter in a saucepan with 1 t ablespoon [15 ml.] of
the oil. Add the mushrooms and garlic, and lightly saute
them without browning the mushrooms. Add the chard or
beet leaves, mix well to blend the flavors, and remove the
pan from the heat. Add the white cheese and the Parmesan;
season with salt and blend in the egg yolks to make a
smooth, homogeneous mixture.
Oil a shallow baking dish thoroughly and sprinkle it
with some of the bread crumbs. Pour the mixture into the
dish and smooth the top with the back of a spoon. Cover with
the remaining bread crumbs and sprinkle with the rest of
the oil. Put the gratin into a n oven, preheated to 375 F.
[190 C.], and cook for about 30 to 40 minutes until the top is
golden brown. This dish can be served either hot or cold.
41b.
2 tbsp.
2 tbsp.
2 tbsp.
1 cup
Y2 tsp.
3
1 cup
LUIGI CARNACINA AND LUIGI VERONELLI
LA BUONA VERA CUCINA ITALIANA
Collard Casserole
To serve 6
collard greens
butter
finely chopped onion
flour
milk
salt
pepper
hard-boiled eggs
freshly grated medium sharp Cheddar
cheese
2 kg.
30 mi.
30 mi.
30 mi.
Y4 liter
2ml.
3
Y4 li ter
Wash the collard greens and strip the leaves from the stems.
Boil the greens in a lar ge amount of lightly salted water.
When the leaves are tender (after about 20 minutes), drain
the gr eens and discard the water. Chop the greens coarsely
a nd set them aside.
In a small saucepan, heat the butter. Saute the onions
j ust until soft. Stir in the flour and, when blended, add the
milk. Whisk until the mixture is smooth a nd thick. Season
with salt and pepper.
Put half of the greens in a buttered 1lfz-quart [Ph -liter]
casserole. Spoon half the sauce over the greens and cover
with half of the sliced eggs and half of the cheese. Repeat the
layers and bake for 20 minutes in an oven that has been
preheated to 350 F. [180 C. ].
CHARLOTTE TURGEON
OF CABBAGES AND KINGS COOKBOOK
Spring Greens
This tasty recipe costs almost nothing and can be used for
beet or turnip greens, spinach, chard or any of your favorites.
But by all means try it with a mixture of early spring greens,
such as dandelion and wild winter cress, and the leaves of
perennial herbs, such as sour sorrel, Good-King-Henry and
Russian broadleaf comfrey. If you can locate them, these
fresh spring greens are ready long before spinach or beet
greens can be picked.
6 cups
2 tbsp.
2 tbsp.
1 tbsp.
To serve 3 or 4
greens, washed and roughly torn into 1 Y2 liters
pieces
medi um-sized onion
oil 30 mi.
vi negar 30 mi.
molasses or brown sugar 15 mi.
Steam the greens, or cook them briefly in just the water that
clings to the leaves from washing them. Drain thoroughly
and reserve the liquid to use in soups. Chop the greens
coarsely with a knife.
Slice the onion and saute it in the oil until it is golden. In
a small bowl mix the vinegar and molasses, then add this to
the onion and heat thoroughly. Add the greens, mix well and
heat again before serving.
ANNE MOYER
THE GREEN THUMB COOKBOOK
Beet-Green Pudding
To serve 6 to 8
1 quart beet greens, boil ed or steamed, 1 liter
drained and chopped
2 tbsp. butter 30 mi.
Y4 cup flour 50 mi.
%cup milk 175 mi.
2 tsp. salt l Oml.
Y4 tsp. ground ci nnamon 1 mi.
3 eggs, lightly beaten 3
Preheat the oven to 350 F. [180 C.]. Press any liquid out of
the beet greens. Over low heat, melt the butter in a sauce-
pan; add the flour, stirring constantly. Gradually stir in the
milk, seasonings and beet greens. Remove from the stove
and stir in the beaten eggs. Blend thoroughly. Turn into a
buttered 11f2-quart [1%-liter] casserole. Place the casserole
in a pan of hot water in the middle of the oven and bake the
mixture for 30 minutes.
Serve the pudding right from the casserole; or unmold
and serve it on a warmed plate with hot, heavy cream.
GERI HARRINGTON
SUMMER GARDEN, WINTER KITCHEN
Pie of Herbs
At the time J ohn Evelyn was writing, in the late 17th Century,
all green, leafy vegetables were known as herbs. This recipe is
a variation of the Tudor spinach pies, of the kind still made in
Provence at Christmas. The pie is traditionally served as a
dessert, but can also accompany meats.
To serve 6 to 8
l ib. spinach Y2 kg.
Y2 lb. chard Y4 kg.
%cup chopped fresh chervil 50 mi.
1 cup light cream Y4 liter
Y2 cup fresh bread crumbs 125 mi.
3 tbsp. finely crumbled macaroons or ground 45 mi.
al monds
4 tbsp. butter 60 mi.
2 eggs 2
2 egg yolks 2
Y4 cup dried currants, soaked in hot milk and 50 mi.
drained
3 tbsp. sugar 45 mi.
grated nutmeg
rough puff pastry (recipe, page 167)
Parboil the spinach, chard and chervil in salted water for 2
minutes, then drain and chop them. Boil the cream with the
bread crumbs to thicken it, then add the chopped herbs. Next
add the crumbled macaroons or ground almonds, the butter,
and the eggs beaten with the extra egg yolks. Finally add the
currants, sugar and a good grating of nutmeg. (More sugar
and crumbled macaroons or ground almonds may be added
to taste. ) Stir it all together over low heat. Line a 9-inch [23-
cm.] piepan with the pastry and pour in the herb mixture.
Bake in an oven, preheated to 425 F. [220 C.], for 10 min-
utes, then lower the temperature to 350 F. [180 C.] and
cook for 30 to 40 minutes. Serve hot or warm with cream.
JOHN EVELYN
ACETARIA
99
LEAF VEGETABLES
Baked Kale with Potatoes
Griinkohl mit Kartoffeln
To serve 4 to 6
31b. kale, stems removed 1 Y2 kg.
9 tbsp. butter, softened 135 mi.
Y2 lb. lean bacon, coarsely diced Y4 kg.
Y2 cup beef or chicken stock 125 mi.
2 tsp. salt 10ml.
Y4 tsp. grated nutmeg l mi.
9 medium-sized potatoes (about 3 lb. 9
[1 Y2 kg.]), cut into small pieces
Y2 cup milk 125 mi.
freshly ground black pepper
2 egg yolks 2
Grease the bottom and sides of an 8-by-10-inch [20-by-25-
cm.] baking dish with 1 tablespoon [15 ml.] of the softened
butter. Set the dish aside.
Drop the kale into enough lightly salted boiling water to
cover it completely, and boil briskly for 10 minutes. Drain
thoroughly in a colander and, with the back of a spoon, press
the kale firmly to remove any excess liquid. Then chop the
kale coarsely.
In a heavy 4-quart [4-liter] saucepan, cook the bacon
over moderate heat until it is crisp and brown. Add the kale,
turning it with a large spoon until the leaves are coated with
the fat. Then stir in the stock, 1 teaspoon [5 ml. ] of the salt,
and the nutmeg, and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce
the heat to low and simmer, uncovered, stirring occasional-
ly, for 20 minutes.
Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 400 F. [200 C.]. Drop
the potatoes into enough lightly salted boiling water to cover
them completely, and boil them briskly, uncover ed, until
they are tender but not falling apart. Drain thoroughly, re-
turn them to the pan and shake them over low heat for 2 to 3
minutes until they are dry. Then force the potatoes through
a food mill set over a bowl. Gradually beat 5 tablespoons [75
ml.] of the butter into the potatoes. Beat in the milk, a few
spoonfuls at a time, using as much of the milk as you need to
make a puree thick enough to hold its shape in a spoon. Beat
in the remaining teaspoon of salt, a few grindings of black
pepper, and the egg yolks, one at a time. Taste for seasoning.
Spread the cooked kale evenly over the bottom of the
pr epared baking dish, smooth the potatoes over it, and dot
the top with the remaining butter, cut into small pieces.
Bake in the middle of the oven for 20 minutes, or until the
surface of the potatoes is golden brown. Serve at once, direct-
ly from the baking dish.
FOODS OF THE WORLDfrHE COOKING OF GERMANY
100
Lettuce Mousse
Mousse de Laitue
The lettuce hearts, not used in this recipe, may be reserved
for a green salad.
8
To serve 4
heads Bibb or Boston lettuce with the
hearts removed and the leaves
separated, then thoroughly washed
salt
8
3 to 4 tbsp. milk 45 to 60 mi.
Y2 cup
4 tbsp.
heavy cream
butter
freshly ground pepper
croutons made from 2 slices of firm,
white bread with the crusts removed,
diced and fried in butter
125 mi.
60 mi.
Bring a large saucepan of well-salted water to a boil. When
the water is boiling hard, plunge in the lettuce leaves and
boil vigorously, uncovered, for 5 to 7 minutes.
Drain, then rinse the leaves in cold water. Squeeze out
the excess water by hand. Chop the leaves finely and put
them into a blender with the milk. Puree for 30 seconds, then
pour the mixture into a saucepan, and add the cream and
butter. Season with salt and pepper. Reduce the puree over
high heat, for 5 to 10 minutes, stirring vigorously. Serve
with the croutons on top.
ANDRE GUILLOT
LA GRANDE CUISINE BOURGEOISE
Braised Lettuce
To serve 6
3 heads Boston lettuce 3
2 tsp. salt 10ml.
3 tbsp. flour 45 mi.
1 Y2 cups beef stock 375 mi.
Y3 cup Madeira or port 75 mi.
Bring a large quantity of water to a boil and add the salt.
Plunge the heads oflettuce into the boiling water and cover
the pot. As soon as the water comes back to a boil, remove the
lettuce and plunge the heads into cold water. Drain well.
Put the flour in a small pan and slowly stir in the stock,
keeping the mixture very smooth. Bring this mixture to a
simmer over medium heat. Once the sauce is thick, remove it
from the heat and add the wine.
Gently squeeze each head of lettuce to remove all excess
water. Cut off the stem ends, then cut each head in half, from
top to bottom. Lay the halves in a shallow baking dish, cut
side down. Pour the sauce over the lettuce and cover them
with a lid or aluminum foil.
Place the baking dish in an oven, preheated to 375 F.
[190 C.], for 30 minutes, or until the lettuce is tender when
tested with a sharp knife.
CAROL CUTLER
THE SIX-MINUTE SOUFFLE AND OTHER CULINARY DELIGHTS
Sorrel Casserole
Far a l'Oseille dans la Cocotte
To serve 4
1 Y2 lb. sorrel, chopped
3
/4 kg.
2 slices bacon, chopped 2
3 heads lettuce, halved, cored and 3
chopped
2 medium-sized onions, thinly sliced 2
8 garlic cloves, chopped 8
salt and pepper
4 eggs, lightly beaten 4
2 tbsp. light cream 30 mi.
Y2 cup dry bread crumbs 125 mi.
Lightly fry the bacon in a heavy saucepan over low heat,
then add the sorrel, lettuce, onion and garlic. Mix all togeth-
er; cover the pan and cook very gently for 2 hours. Season the
sorrel mixture with salt and pepper and, a few minutes be-
fore serving, whisk the eggs, cream and the bread crumbs
together and stir them into the sorrel.
JEAN MERCIER AND IRENE LABARRE
LA CUISINE DU POITOU ET DE LA VENDEE
Spinach Dumplings
Malfatti di Spinaci
To serve 4 to 6
2 to 2Y2 lb. spinach, boiled, drained, squeezed 1 kg.
completely dry and finely chopped
5 tbsp. butter 75 mi.
1 cup ricotta cheese Y4 liter
egg, beaten
%cup fl our 175 mi.
freshly grated Parmesan cheese 50 mi.
Saute the spinach in 3 tablespoons [45 ml.] of the butter for
about 5 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and add the
ricotta, egg and 3 tablespoons of the flour. Mix thoroughly.
Shape the mixture into small, round dumplings. Roll the
dumplings in the remaining flour and cook them, a small
batch at a time, by sliding them from a saucer into a large
pan of simmering salted water. After about 5 to 8 minutes,
when the dumplings float to the surface, lift them out with a
perforated spoon, and keep them hot on a heatproof platter
in an oven, preheated to its lowest setting.
To serve, melt the remaining butter and pour it over the
dumplings. Sprinkle them with the grated Parmesan. Alter-
natively, the dumplings can be served with a tomato sauce.
31b.
1 cup
3
1 tbsp.
2 cups
%cup
GIOV ANN! CA VALERA AND ODILLA MARCHESINI
LA CUCINA DELLE STAGIONI
Spinach with Rice
Spanakorizo
To serve 4
spinach, tough stems removed
olive oil
onions, or 1 bunch scall ions (including
2 inches [5 em.] of the green topsL
coarsely chopped
chopped fresh dill
sal t and pepper
water
raw unprocessed rice
1 Y2 kg.
Y4 liter
3
15 mi.
Y2 liter
175 mi.
Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan. Saute the onions gent-
ly until half-cooked, but not colored. Shake the surplus wa-
ter off the spinach leaves and put them in the saucepan with
the onions. Cover and simmer gently for 5 minutes, then add
the dill, seasoning and water, and bring to a boil.
Throw in the rice, stir well once with a wooden spoon,
cover, and cook over moderate heat until the rice swells and
the water is reduced. After about 10 to 15 minutes, when
most of the water has been absorbed, remove the pan from
the heat. Take off the lid, place a clean cloth over the pan and
then replace the lid so that the steam does not escape alto-
gether. Leave for 10 to 15 minutes until the rice is cooked
and the water has completely disappeared.
JOYCE M. STUBBS
THE HOME BOOK OF GREEK COOKERY
101
LEAF VEGETABLES
21b.
1 tsp.
Creamed Spinach
To serve 4 to 6
spinach, coarse stems removed,
washed and drained
salt
grated nutmeg
1 kg.
Sml.
3 to 4 tbsp. heavy cream 45 to 60 mi.
salt and pepper
Heat a large, heavy pan, throw in the spinach, and sprinkle
with salt and nutmeg. Turn up the heat, and toss and stir for
2 or 3 minutes, by which time the spinach should be cooked.
No additional water is necessary; sufficient water will ad-
here to the leaves.
Drain the spinach and press out any excess moisture.
Place the spinach in the blender with the cream and blend
until smooth. Reheat the creamed spinach in a saucepan and
correct the seasoning. You may find that a little more nut-
meg is an improvement.
102
81b.
MAURICE MOORE-BETTY
COOKING FOR OCCASIONS
Spinach with Currants and Pine Nuts
Les Epinards aux Raisins et aux Pignons
To serve 6
spinach, stems removed 4 kg.
salt
olive oil 50 mi.
1 cup pine nuts Y4 liter
dried currants, soaked in warm water
for 30 minutes, drained and dried on
paper towels
pepper
150 mi.
Plunge the spinach into a large pan of boiling salted water.
Cook for up to 10 minutes. The spinach is ready when a leaf
crushes easily on being pressed firmly between the fingers.
Drain the spinach, squeeze out the extra moisture and
drain again for 2 to 3 minutes.
Heat the oil in a fireproof casserole. Toss in the pine nuts.
When they begin to color, add the currants and stir briskly
with a wooden spoon. Add the spinach and heat it through.
Season with salt and pepper. Serve in the casserole.
JACQUES MEDECI N
LA CUISI NE DU COMTE DE NICE
1 lb.
Spinach Pancakes
Pinaattiohukaiset
To serve 6 to 8
spi nach, blanched in boiling water,
drained, squeezed completely dry
and finely chopped
1 Y2 cups milk
1 tsp. salt
Ya tsp. grated nutmeg
1 cup flour
2 tbsp. unsalted butter, melted and cooled
2 eggs
Y2 tsp. sugar
1 to 2 tbsp. butter, softened
Y2 kg.
375 mi.
5 mi.
Y2 mi.
Y4 liter
30 mi.
2
2 mi.
15to30ml.
In a large mixing bowl, combine the milk, salt, nutmeg and
flour and then stir in the melted butter. (Or, if you prefer to
use an electric blender, all of these ingredients can be mixed
at once at medium speed.) In a separate bowl, combine the
eggs and sugar, and stir this mixture into the batter. Gradu-
ally add the chopped spinach.
With a pastry brush or paper towel, coat the bottom of a
heavy 10- to 12-inch [25- to 30-cm.] skillet with about a
teaspoon [ 5 mL] of soft butter and set the skillet over moder-
ately high heat until the pan is very hot. For each pancake,
drop 2 tablespoons [30 mL] of the batter onto the skillet and,
with a spoon or spatula, spread it out evenly to form a 3-inch
[8-cm.] disk. Cook the pancakes-three or four at a time-
for 2 to 3 minutes on each side, or until they have browned
lightly. Keep them hot on a warmed platter, covered loosely
with aluminum foiL Add more butter to the skillet as it
becomes necessary while cooking the remaining pancakes.
Serve the spinach pancakes as a vegetable course-accom-
panied, if you like, by lingonberries.
FOODS OF THE WORLDffHE COOKING OF SCANDINAVIA
Eggs and Spinach
To serve 4
2 to 2 Y2 lb. spinach
6 tbsp. butter
salt
2 or 3 eggs, beaten
2 to 3 tbsp. freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1 tsp. chopped marjoram
4 slices French or Italian bread, fried in
olive oil
1 kg.
90 mi.
2 or 3
30to45ml.
5 mi.
4
Parboil the spinach for 1 to 2 minutes in a large pan of
boiling water. Drain and squeeze dry. Melt the butter in a
saucepan, add the spinach, and season with salt. Cook very
gently for 15 minutes. Mix the eggs with the Parmesan
cheese and the marjoram, and pour the mixture over the
spinach. Stir well with a wooden spoon over low heat for 2 or
3 minutes, until barely thickened, without letting the con-
tents of the saucepan boil and without scrambling the eggs.
Remove from the heat and serve with the fried bread.
THE COOK TO A FLORENTINE FAMILY
NOT ONLY SPAGHETTI!
Fryins Herbs, as Dressed
m Staffordshire
In the early 19th Century, when Mrs. Rundell was writing,
all green, leafy vegetables were still known as herbs.
1 lb.
Y3 cup
6
2 tbsp.
To serve 4
spinach, with the stems removed
chopped fresh parsley
scallions, including 2 inches [5 em.] of
the green tops, chopped
salt
butter
75 mi.
6
30 mi.
Put the spinach in a large stewpan. Sprinkle the parsley and
scallions among the spinach. Set them all on to stew, with
some salt and the butter: shake the pan when it begins to
grow warm, and let it be closely covered over low heat for
about 15 minutes till done enough. It is served with slices of
grilled calfs liver, small slices of bacon, and fried eggs; the
latter on the herbs, the others in a separate dish.
MRS. MARIA RUNDELL
DOMESTIC COOKERY
Spinach Gratin
Gratin d'Epinards
This gratin (or tian) of spinach is an infinitely simple prep-
aration that owes its originality to an important detail: the
finely chopped spinach is placed raw on a bed of oil. And
without doubt the spinach is e s ~ young.
To serve 4
2 to 2 Y2 lb. spinach, stems removed, finely
chopped
olive oil
sal t and pepper
dry bread crumbs
1 kg.
50 mi.
50 mi.
Oil a large gratin dish with 1 tablespoon [15 ml.] of the oil.
Pack in the spinach, and season with salt and pepper. Sprin-
kle with a coating of bread crumbs, and dribble the remain-
ing oil all over the surface. Cook in an oven, preheated to
375 F. [190 C.], for about 50 minutes.
RENEJOUVEAU
LA CUISINE PROVEN GALE
Spinach Loaf Berthilda
Le Pain d'Epinards Berthilda
To serve 6 to 8
2 to 2 Y2 lb. spinach, tough stems removed,
washed
salt
10 eggs
Y3 cup heavy cream
pepper
14 tbsp. butter, melted and cooled
1 cup bechamel sauce (recipe, page 165)
freshly grated Parmesan cheese
hollandaise sauce (recipe, page 166)
1 kg.
10
75 mi.
210 mi.
Y4 liter
50 mi.
Cook the spinach in boiling, salted water. Drain it well, and
puree it through a sieve or food mill.
Beat the eggs with the cream, and season with salt and
pepper. When well beaten, pass the mixture through a fine
sieve into a large bowl. Mix in the melted butter and the
pureed spinach. Turn the spinach mixture into a buttered
charlotte mold, and place the mold in a pan that has been
partially filled with hot water. Bake in an oven, preheated to
325 F. [160 C.], for 45 minutes, or until the center of the
loaf has swelled and is firm to the touch.
Turn out the loaf onto an ovenproof platter. Mix the be-
chamel sauce with half of the grated Parmesan, and use the
mixture to coat the top and sides of the loaf. Sprinkle the
remaining Parmesan over the loaf. Turn up the oven tem-
perature to 450 F. [230 C.], and return the loaf to the oven
for 10 to 15 minutes or until the coating is lightly browned.
Serve the loaf with the hollandaise sauce, passed sepa-
rately in a sauceboat.
EDOUARD NIGNON
LES PLAISIRS DE LA TABLE
103
LEAF VEGETABLES /THE CABBAGE FAMILY
Spinach and Cheese Gratin
Epinards au Four
To serve 4
2 to 2 Y2 lb. spinach with the stems removed,
chopped
Y2 cup flour
salt and pepper
grated nutmeg
8 tbsp. butter, cut into small pieces
1 cup former or ricotta cheese
% cup heavy cream
3 eggs
1 kg.
125 mi.
120 mi.
Y4 liter
175 mi.
3
Pile the flour into a heap on a table or in a large mixing bowl,
and make a well in the center. Into this, put a little salt,
pepper and nutmeg, the butter, cheese, cream and eggs. Mix
everything together to make a paste and then add the spin-
ach. Put the mixture into a buttered gratin dish and cook in
an oven, preheated to 375 F. [190 C.], for about 30 minutes
or until a crust forms on the surface. Serve immediately.
GARLIN
LE CUISINIER MODERN
Spinach in the Old-fashioned Manner
Epinards a la Vieille Mode
It is necessary to exaggerate the amount of butter a little
because the dandelion greens, spinach and, above all , the
chicory absorb an enormous amount of butter and cream.
To serve 4 to 6
3 lb. spinach, stems removed
3 bunches watercress, stems removed
2 to 2Y2 lb. dandelion greens, stems removed
2 to 2Y2 lb. chicory, white hearts only
14 tbsp. butter
1 cup
leftover meat braising jui ces or meat
stock (optional)
salt and pepper
bechamel sauce(recipe, poge 165)
1 Y2 kg.
3
1 kg.
1 kg.
210 mi.
125 to
175 mi.
% liter
Parboil each of the vegetables separately: the spinach and
watercress for about 1 minute, or until softened; and the
dandelion greens and chicory for 5 to 6 minutes, or until
softened. Drain all the greens thoroughly, mix them togeth-
er and chop them very finely. Place them in a gratin dish
that has been thickly buttered on the sides and bottom. The
104
addition of meat braising juices or stock to the greens will
improve the flavor.
Taste the greens for seasoning, then pour the bechamel
sauce over them. Put the dish into a hot oven, preheated to
450 F. [230 C.], for 10 minutes, then serve.
CURNONSKY
CUISINE ET VINS DE FRANCE
The Cabbage "Family
Broccoli in Wine
To serve 6
31b. broccoli , larger stalks trimmed and
split lengthwise
1 Y2 kg.
Y2 tsp. sal t 2 mi.
Wine sauce
1 tbsp. butter 15ml.
2 tsp. olive oil lO ml.
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2
2 tbsp. freshly grated orange peel 30 mi.
Y2 cup fresh orange juice 125 mi.
Y2 cup dry white wine 125 mi.
Prepare the wine sauce in a large, heavy stainless-steel or
enameled casserole or Dutch oven, by first melting the but-
ter with the oil over moderate heat. Add the garlic and saute
for 3 to 4 minutes, stirring frequently. Then add the orange
peel, orange juice and wine. Reduce the orange mixture over
high heat until it is thick and syrupy (about 6 to 8 minutes),
stirring often.
Meanwhile, cook the broccoli, uncovered, in about 2
quarts [2 liters] of boiling salted water for approximately 10
minutes. Drain the broccoli, put it in the casserole and toss
gently until the broccoli is coated with sauce. Serve at once.
JUNIOR LEAGUE OF PASADENA
THE CALIFORNIA HERITAGE COOKBOOK
Broccoli Amandine
To serve 4 to 6
2 to 2 Y2 lb. broccoli
l kg.
salt
freshly ground black pepper
fresh lemon juice
Y3 cup blanched, slivered almonds 75 mi.
4 tbsp. unsalted butter 60 mi.
garlic clove, finely chopped
Remove and discard the large leaves and tough portions of
stem from the broccoli. Wash the broccoli and soak it in
lukewarm salted water for about 30 minutes, then drain and
tie securely into bunches with cotton string. Cook, tightly
covered, in a small amount of water, or uncovered in a large
amount ofboiling salted water, for 15 to 25 minutes, or until
tender. Drain; remove the strings. Arrange the broccoli on a
warmed platter, season with salt and freshly ground black
pepper, and squeeze a little lemon juice on top.
Saute the almonds in the butter until lightly browned,
adding the garlic. Sprinkle the garlic butter and almonds
over the broccoli. Serve at once.
2lb.
2 tbsp.
l tsp.
l tsp.
2 tbsp.
l tsp.
LOUIS P. DE GOUY
THE GOLD COOK BOOK
Stir-fried Broccoli
Ch'ao Chieh Lan
To serve 4 or 5
broccoli , peeled
peanut or corn oil
salt
sugar
water
cornstarch, combined with 2 tbsp. [30
mi.] cold water (optional)
l kg.
30 mi.
5 mi.
5 mi.
30 mi.
5ml.
Separate the broccoli florets with small stems from the large
florets and stalks, and cut the large parts into thin pieces,
about Ph inches [4 em. ] long to make about 6 cups [Ph
liters] in all. Rinse in cold water and drain.
Heat a wok until hot, add the peanut oil, and stir fry the
broccoli for about 2 minutes. Add the salt and sugar. Mix
well. Add the water and cover the wok. Cook over high heat
for 2 minutes, stirring once. Serve hot. (If you are using the
cornstarch-and-water mixture as a glaze, add it to the pan
for the last minute of cooking.)
FLORENCE LIN
FLORENCE LIN'S CHINESE REGIONAL COOKBOOK
Broccoli Italian-Style
This classic treatment of broccoli can be applied with equally
good results to a small cauliflower.
To serve 3 or 4
lib. broccoli, trimmed Y2 kg.
salt
3 tbsp. olive oil 45 mi.
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2
pepper
chopped fresh parsley
Break the broccoli into small florets and cut the stems into
small pieces. Boil gently in salted water for 5 or 6 minutes.
The pieces must be slightly undercooked. Drain well.
Heat the olive oil in a skillet. Add the garlic and let it
brown, then add the broccoli and cook for 5 minutes. Add
pepper and salt to taste, and sprinkle with chopped parsley.
BERYL GOULD-MARKS
THE HOME BOOK OF ITALIAN COOKERY
Broccoli with Anchovies
Broccoli Affogati
To serve 4 to 6
31b. broccoli, trimmed, broken into fl orets 1 Y2 kg.
and washed
Y3 cup olive oil 75 mi.
6 leeks, whi te parts only, sliced
lengthwise
6
l medium-sized onion, sliced l
12 anchovy fillets, soaked in cold water
for l 0 minutes and patted dry
12
2 tbsp. chopped fresh parsley 30 mi.
salt and freshly ground pepper
Y2 cup dry white wine 125 mi.
Cover the bottom of a saute pan, first with the olive oil and
then with half of the broccoli florets, still wet from washing.
Cover the broccoli with half of the leeks, onion slices, ancho-
vies and parsley. Season with a little salt and a generous
grinding of pepper. Repeat the layers with the remaining
ingredients. Cover the pan and cook over very low heat for 25
to 30 minutes. Add the wine; uncover the pan, and cook the
broccoli over high heat for 10 minutes to allow nearly all of
the liquid to evaporate before serving.
This dish can be served without any additions, or tossed
with small noodles.
LUIGI CARNACINA AND LUIGI VERONELLI
LA BUONA VERA CUCINA ITALIAN A
105
THE CABBAGE FAMILY
Brussels Sprouts with Yogurt
To toast the almonds, spread them on a baking sheet and put
them in an oven, preheated to 450 F. [230 C.], or under a
preheated broiler, for 3 to 5 minutes. Turn them several times
with a spatula to prevent scorching.
To serve 4 to 6
2 to 2Y2 lb. small Brussels sprouts, trimmed and
the bases nicked with a sharp knife
1 kg.
1 tbsp. butter 15ml.
1 medium-sized tomato, chopped 1
2 tsp. chopped fresh chives 10 mi.
Y2 tsp. grated nutmeg 2ml.
salt and pepper
1 cup unflavored yogurt, lightly whisked Y4 liter
Y4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese 50 mi.
Y4 cup toasted, blanched almond slivers 50 mi.
Drop the Brussels sprouts into boiling salted water, and cook
for about 10 minutes, or until they are tender. Remove the
sprouts from the heat and drain thoroughly.
Place the sprouts in a buttered ovenproof casserole; cover
them wit h the tomato and chives. Sprinkle t he vegetables
with the nutmeg, and season them with salt and pepper.
Pour the yogurt over them. Sprinkle the top with the grated
cheese and toasted almonds, and bake for 15 minutes in an
oven, preheated to 350 F. [180 C.], until the top is nicely
browned. Serve hot.
1 quart
8 tbsp.
1 tsp.
Y2 tsp.
Y4 cup
IRFANORGA
COOKING WITH YOGURT
Braised Brussels Sprouts
To serve 6
small Brussels sprouts, trimmed
(about 2 to 2Y2 lb. [1 kg.])
butter, cut into small pieces
salt
freshly ground block pepper
fresh lemon juice
1 liter
120m!.
5ml.
2 mi.
50 mi.
Put the sprouts in a heavy casserole with a tight-fitting lid.
Lay the butter on the sprouts and sprinkle them with the
salt, pepper and lemon juice. Cover and place in an oven,
106
preheated to 350 F. [180 C.], to braise for 25 to 35 minutes,
or until barely tender. Every 10 minutes, remove the cover
and stir the sprouts to be sure they do not stick.
The sprouts will cook in the butter and the small amount
of moisture clinging to them; neither water nor stock is need-
ed, but do keep an eye on them in case they scorch.
Baby onions and turnips can be cooked the same way;
sprinkle them with 1 teaspoon [5 ml. ] of sugar when adding
the salt, pepper and lemon juice.
JULIE DANNENBAUM
JULIE DANNENBAUM'S CREATIVE COOKING SCHOOL
Stuffed Cabbage Leaves,
Turkish-Style
Choux ala Turque
The techniques of preparing and stuffing vegetable leaves are
demonstrated on pages 68-69.
2 oz.
1 cup
3
To serve 4 to 6
Iorge cabbage, leaves separated and
ri bs trimmed
salt pork with the rind removed,
blanched in boiling water for 5
minutes, drained and thinly sliced
veal, thinly sliced
thinly sliced prosciutto
veal stock
Chicken and sorrel stuffing
Iorge chicken breast (about 1 lb. [Y2
kg.]), skinned, boned and chopped
sorrel, stems removed, finely chopped
eggs, yolks separated from whites
salt and pepper
125 g.
125 g.
75 g.
Y4 liter
125 g.
3
Blanch the cabbage leaves in boiling salted water for a min-
ute or two, then drain them. To make the stuffing, mix the
chicken with the sorrel, bind with the egg yolks and season
to taste with salt and pepper. Whip the egg whites until stiff
and fold them into the sorrel-and-chicken mixture. Stuff the
cabbage leaves with the mixture.
Line an ovenproof earthenware casserole with slices of
salt pork, veal and ham. Put in the stuffed cabbage leaves,
packing t hem tightly, and pour in enough stock to cover
them. Cook, covered, for about 2 hours in a slow oven, pre-
heated to 300 F. [150 C. ]. When cooked, arrange the cab-
bage leaves in a warmed serving dish, strain and degrease
the cooking juices and pour them over the cabbage.
LE CUISINIER GASCON
Stuffed Cabbage
Chou Farci ala
The technique of stuffing a whole cabbage and wrapping it in
a string net or cheesecloth is demonstrated on pages 46-47.
To serve 4 to 6
large cabbage, trimmed
salt
chord leaves, blanched in boiling
water for 2 minutes, drained and
chopped
Y2 lb. salt pork with the rind removed,
blanched in boiling water for 5
minutes, drained, di ced and sauteed
medium-sized onion, chopped and
lightly sauteed in butter
2 large tomatoes, peeled, seeded and
chopped
Y3 cup row unprocessed rice, boiled for 15
minutes and drained
1 lb. peas, shelled (about 1 cup [Y4 liter]}
1 Y2 lb. sausage meat, seasoned with a
crushed garlic clove
2 quarts beef stock
2
75 mi.
%kg.
2 liters
Blanch the cabbage for 5 to 8 minutes in salted water, rinse
it in cold water, drain it, and remove the large, tough outer
leaves. Open the cabbage, spreading out the leaves, on a
string net or a piece of damp cheesecloth stretched out on the
table. Remove the heart of inner leaves without detaching
the outer leaves from the core. Chop the cabbage heart.
Mix together the chopped cabbage and chard leaves, salt-
pork dice, onion, tomatoes, rice, peas and sausage meat, and
place the mixture in the center of the cabbage.
Shape the stuffing into a ball and fold the cabbage leaves
around the stuffing. Tie up the net or cheesecloth.
Put the cabbage into a pan of boiling stock, cover and
simmer gently for about 3 lf2 hours. Drain the cabbage and
remove the net or cheesecloth. Place the cabbage on a round
dish, pour over a few tablespoons of the stock and serve.
PROSPER MONTAGNE
THE NEW LAROUSSE GASTRONOMIQUE
Stuffed Cabbage
Le V rai Fassum Grasso is
The technique of wrapping a whole stuffed cabbage in string
net or cheesecloth is demonstrated on pages 46-47.
To serve 4
medium-sized cabbage (obout21b. [1
kg.]), trimmed
Y2 lb. chard or lettuce, stemmed and finely
y4 kg.
chopped
Y2 lb. salt pork with the rind removed,
blanched in boiling water for 5
minutes, drai ned and finely chopped
y4 kg.
Y4 cup boiled rice
50 mi.
Y4 cup freshly shelled peas 50 mi.
3 tbsp. olive oil
45 mi.
salt and pepper
1 Y2 to beef or veal stock, or salted water 1 Y2 to
2 quarts
2 liters
1 garlic clove (optional}
bouquet gorni, including chervil (optional }
Blanch the cabbage in salted water for 10 to 15 minutes until
the outer leaves are just supple. Turn back the leaves of the
cabbage and remove the heart. Finely chop the heart and
squeeze out any excess water. Mix the chopped cabbage
heart with the chard or lettuce and the salt pork. Add the
rice, peas, olive oil and seasoning. Put this mixture into the
center of t he cabbage and fold down the leaves to enclose it.
Tie up the cabbage in a string net or cheesecloth and simmer
in the stock or salted water for 2 to 3 hours. The garlic and
bouquet garni may be added to the cooking liquid according
to taste. Remove the cabbage from the pan, untie t he net or
cheesecloth and serve the cabbage in a bowl.
AUSTIN DE CROZE
LES PLATS REGIONAUX DE FRANCE
Southern Fried Cabbage
To serve 4
small green cabbage, cored and
shredded
3 to 4 tbsp. rendered bacon fat
2 tsp. red pepper flakes
salt
45to60ml.
10ml.
Heat the bacon fat in a skillet, toss in the cabbage and stir
until it is glistening. Lower the heat, add the pepper flakes,
season with salt to taste, and continue cooking and turning
the cabbage until it is barely tender-about 10 minutes.
MIRIAM UNGERER
GOOD CHEAP FOOD
107
THE CABBAGE FAMILY
Poached Stuffing in Cabbage Leaves
Le Farci au Pot ou Fars
Instructions for stuffing cabbage leaves are on pages 46-47.
6 to 8
1 lb.
2
Y2 lb.
2
2 tbsp.
2
1 lb.
6
3
1 tbsp.
To serve 6
large cabbage leaves, blanched in
boiling water for 1 or 2 minutes, ri nsed
and drained
Sorrel stuffing
sorrel, finely chopped
heads Boston lettuce, halved, cored
and finely chopped
spinach, finely chopped
small onions, finely chopped
finely chopped fresh parsley
shallots, finely chopped
salt pork with the rind removed,
blanched in boiling water for 5
minutes, drained and finely chopped
eggs
thick slices French or Italian bread with
the crusts removed, torn into pieces
flour
6 to 8
Y2 kg.
2
2
30 mi.
2
6
3
15ml.
YJ cup light cream 75 mi.
In a large bowl, blend together all the ingredients except the
cabbage leaves. Spread out a string net or cheesecloth in a
shallow dish, and line it with some of the cabbage leaves.
Place the stuffing in the center, press the remaining cabbage
leaves onto the top, and draw the string very tightly, or pull
the edges of the cheesecloth together and tie securely. Trans-
fer the cabbage-wrapped stuffing to a large pan of boiling
salted water and simmer, covered, for about 2 hours. Trans-
fer the cabbage-wrapped stuffing to a bowl and remove the
string net. Serve cut into slices.
AUSTIN DE CROZE
LES PLATS REGIONAUX DE FRANCE
Fried Cabbage
To serve 4
small cabbage, cored and finely shredded
salt and pepper
1 tbsp. lord 15 mi.
Y2 cup heavy cream 125 mi.
3 tbsp. vinegar 45 mi.
In a large bowl, season the cabbage with salt and pepper, stir
well and allow to stand for 5 minutes. Drop the lard into a
108
heated, heavy iron skillet, add the cabbage, and cook over
high heat, stirring briskly until quite tender (10 to 20 min-
utes, depending on the quantity of cabbage in relation to the
size of the pan). Add the cream and continue to stir until the
cream and cabbage are well mixed. Remove the cabbage
from the heat and add the vinegar. Stir and serve.
THE BUCKEYE COOKBOOK
Cabbage Quiche
~ i s is an unusual and delicious quiche. The same cabbage
mixture, baked without pastry in a bain-marie, makes a
delicious accompaniment for meat.
To serve 4
small head cabbage (about 1 lb. [Y2
kg.]), cored and finely shredded
short-crust pastry ( recipe, page 167)
8 tbsp. butter 120 mi.
3 eggs 3
1 cup light cream and mil k, mixed Y4 liter
4 tbsp. freshly grated Gruyere cheese 60 mi.
3 tbsp. freshly grated Parmesan cheese 45 mi.
salt and freshly ground black pepper
grated nutmeg
Preheat the oven to 425 F. [220 C.]. Roll out the pastry and
use it to line a 9-inch [23-cm.] quiche pan, equipped with a
re_mova_ble base. Line the pastry with wax paper or foil , fill
with dned beans and bake for 15 minutes. Remove the paper
and the beans, and let the shell dry out in the oven for 5 more
minutes. Set aside the pastry shell to cool and reduce the
oven temperature to 350 F. [180 C.].
Meanwhile, put the cabbage in a colander and pour a
kettleful of boiling water over it gradually. Shake off the
excess moisture from the cabbage. In a large, heavy sauce-
pan melt the butter. Add the cabbage, cover tightly and cook
over _moderate heat until the cabbage is soft and golden,
shakmg the pan to prevent burning. The cooking time will
depend on the type of cabbage used, but firm cabbage takes
about 30 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat.
In a small bowl, beat the eggs with the cream and milk.
Let the cabbage cool slightly, then stir in the egg mixture
and 2 tablespoons [30 ml.] each of the Gruyere and Parme-
san cheeses. Add salt, pepper and nutmeg to taste.
Carefully spoon the mixture into the baked pastry shell.
Sprinkle the remaining cheese on top. Bake for 30 minutes,
or until the filling is set and the top is a rich golden color.
GEORGE SEDDON AND HELENA RADECKA
YOUR KITCHEN GARDEN
Braised Red Cabbage
Kokt Rodkal
To serve 6 to 8
large red cabbage (about 3 lb. [l Y2
kg.]), shredded or cubed
4 tbsp. butter 60 mi.
2 tbsp. dark molasses 30 mi.
2or3 apples, peeled, cored and sliced 2or3
onion, grated
3 tbsp. fresh lemon juice 45 mi.
Y2 cup dry red wine or vinegar 125 mi.
salt and pepper
Melt the butter in a large, heavy fireproof casserole or Dutch
oven. Add the cabbage and molasses, and cook over low heat
for about 10 minutes, stirring constantly. Stir in the apples,
onion, lemon juice, wine or vinegar, and salt. Simmer gently,
covered, for 2 hours, stirring occasionally. Season to taste.
Serve with roast goose or baked ham.
2Y2 to
31b.
2 tbsp.
SAM WIDENFELT (EDITOR)
SWEDISH FOOD
Braised Cabbage with Salt Pork
Chou ala Fac;on des Petits Restaurants
To serve 6
whole cabbage, quartered and core
removed
butter
l to
1 Y2 kg.
30 mi.
Y2 lb. salt pork, blanched in boiling water for Y4 kg.
5 minutes, drained and diced
3 to 4 tbsp. finely chopped onion 45 to 60 mi.
salt and pepper
Cook the cabbage, uncovered, in plenty of boiling water for
10 to 15 minutes. Drain, press out as much moisture as possi-
ble, then chop. Melt the butter in a large saucepan and add
the salt pork and the onion. Cook gently until the onion
begins to brown, then add the cabbage. Season and cook,
covered, over low heat for 15 to 20 minutes, stirring occa-
sionally. Drain off any excess fat before serving.
AUGUSTE ESCOFFIER
MA CUISINE
Cabbage Rolls with Mushrooms
Bandhgobi Parcha
The spiced salt called for in this recipe can be made by season-
ing table salt or crushed rock salt with a little ground corian-
der, cumin, mace, cayenne pepper and black pepper. Lovage
and pomegranate seeds are obtainable from Indian or Middle
Eastern grocers.
To serve 6
6 large green cabbage leaves,
blanched in boiling water for 1 or 2
minutes and drained
6
2 tbsp. butter 30 mi.
Y4 tsp. ground turmeric l mi.
Y2 tsp. spiced salt 2ml.
2 to 3 tbsp. water 30 to45 mi.
Mushroom stuffing
Y4 lb. fresh mushrooms, fi nely chopped 125 g.
2 medium-sized potatoes, peeled 2
Y4 cup heavy cream 50 mi.
4 tbsp. butter 60ml.
2 tbsp. finel y cut fresh chives 30 mi.
1 tbsp. chopped fresh parsley or coriander l5ml.
leaves
YJ cup slivered, blanched almonds 75ml.
Ys tsp. lovage seeds Y2 mi.
1 tbsp. ground pomegranate seeds or
chopped capers
l5ml.
To make the stuffing, boil the potatoes, drain, and then pu-
ree them with the cream and butter. Add the mushrooms,
chives, parsley or coriander, almonds, lovage seeds, and
pomegranate seeds or capers. Mix well.
Place one sixth of this stuffing in the middle of each cab-
bage leaf. Wrap up the leaves and secure with wooden picks
or tie with thread.
Heat the butter in a large skillet and put in the cabbage
rolls. Saute over high heat until the leaves brown lightly on
all sides. Dust the rolls with the turmeric and spiced salt.
Moisten with a few tablespoons of water. Cover the skillet
tightly and raise the heat very high for 1 minute. Then re-
duce the heat and steam the cabbage rolls until all the mois-
tur e has dried up. Uncover the pan and continue cooking
until the cabbage leaves start to stick a little to the bottom of
the skillet. Serve.
DHARAMJIT SINGH

109
THE CABBAGE FAMILY
Stuffed Cabbage, Greek-Style
Chou Farci a la Grecque
This dish may be served hot or cold.
There is no fixed rule for stuffings ala grecque. Cooked
peas, even currants, may be added. Vine leaves are often
used instead of cabbage leaves.
To serve 4
medium-sized cabbage (about 2 lb. [1
kg.]), leaves separated, blanched in
boiling water for 10 to 15 minutes,
rinsed and drained
2 small eggplants (about 10 oz. [300
g.] each), peeled and diced
2 peppers, halved, seeded, deribbed
and coarsely diced
1 cup olive oil
1 cup raw unprocessed rice, boiled for 15
minutes
salt and pepper
Aromatic cooking liquid
dry white wine
Y2 cup water
4 to 6 tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1 tsp.
15
olive oil
mixed coriander seeds and
peppercorns, tied in a piece of
cheesecloth
small boiling onions
bouquet garni
2
2
% liter
Y4 liter
125 mi.
125 mi.
60 to 90 mi.
75 mi.
5 mi.
15
Put all the ingredients for the aromatic cooking liquid into
an enameled or tin-lined copper saucepan. Simmer for 10
minutes and set aside to cool.
To prepare the stuffing, first saute the eggplant and pep-
pers lightly in about 'h cup [125 ml.] of the olive oil, and mix
with the rice. Season well with salt and pepper.
Spread out the c b b ~ e leaves, two or three at a time-
about 16 will be needed in all-and put a spoonful of the
stuffing mixture in the center of each leaf. Roll up each leaf,
t ucking in the ends.
Choose a large saute pan and lightly coat the bottom with
the remaining olive oil. Arrange the stuffed leaves side by
side in the pan, with no spaces between them, or fill any gap
with a potato to prevent the stuffed leaves from unrolling
during cooking. Pour the aromatic cooking liquid over the
stuffed leaves, cover theipan with wax paper and a lid, bring
the liquid to a boil and cook over low heat for 30 minutes.
110
CURNONSKY
CUISINE ET VINS DE FRANCE
Braised Red Cabbage in Red Wine
with Chestnuts
Chou Rouge a la Limousine
To serve 6
large red cabbage (about 3 lb. [1 Y2
kg.]), core removed, cut into julienne
(about 3 quarts [3 liters])
y4 lb. sal t pork with the rind removed, 125 g.
blanched in boil ing water for 5
minutes, drained and diced
Y2 cup finely chopped onions 125 mi.
1 Y2 cups dry red wine 375 mi.
1 Y2 cups beef stock 375 mi.
2 tbsp. wine vinegar 30 mi.
Y4 tsp. grated nutmeg 1 mi.
Y4 tsp. ground cloves 1 mi.
Y2 tsp. salt
2 mi.
freshly ground black pepper
2 to 2 Y2 lb. chestnuts, sli t, parboiled for 10
minutes, outer and inner skins removed
1 kg.
Preheat the oven to 325 F. L160 C.].
In a heavy 3 lh-quart [31/2-liter] fireproof casserole that
has a tightly fitting cover, cook the salt pork over moderate
heat, stirring frequently, until the dice are crisp and golden
and have rendered all their fat. With a slotted spoon, remove
the salt-pork dice and reserve them. Cook the onions in the
fat remaining in the casserole over moderate heat, stirring
frequently, for 5 minutes, or until soft but not brown. Stir in
the cabbage, cover, and cook over low heat for 10 minutes.
Add to the cabbage the wine, beef stock, vinegar, nut-
meg, cloves, salt-pork dice, salt and a generous grinding of
pepper. Cover the casserole again and cook on the middle
shelf of the oven for 2 hours. (Make sure that the liquids are
not cooking away too fast; if they seem to be, add more stock.)
Gently stir in the chestnuts and cook, covered, for 1 hour
more, or until the cabbage is tender and most of the liquid
absorbed. Correct the seasoning and serve the cabbage from
the casserole or a warmed vegetable dish.
FOODS OF THE WORLDfrHE COOKING OF PROVINCIAL FRANCE
2
1 cup
2 or 3
1 tbsp.
Spanish Cauliflower
Coliflor a la Espanola
To serve 4
cauliflower, trimmed and divided into
florets
salt
hard-boiled eggs, chopped
olive oil
garl ic cloves, chopped
chopped fresh parsley
2
250 mi.
2 or 3
15m!.
Boil the cauliflower florets in salted water for 10 to 15 min-
utes, or until t ender. Drain, put them in a warmed serving
dish and sprinkle them with the chopped eggs. Heat the oil
in a small heavy skillet, and fry the garlic and parsley until
crisp. Sprinkle over the cauliflower and serve.
4 tbsp.
2 tbsp.
13 cups
3
VICTORIA SERRA, TRANSLATED BY ELIZABETH GILl
TIA VICTORIA'S SPANISH KITCHEN
Cauliflower Mold
To serve 4
medium-sized cauliflower, trimmed
and broken into florets
butter
flour
mi lk
sal t and pepper
grated nutmeg (optional)
eggs, beaten
freshly grated Parmesan cheese
60 mi.
30 mi.
400 mi.
3
50 mi.
Parboil the cauliflower in boiling, salted water for 4 to 5
minutes, then drain thoroughly. Lightly saute the florets in
2 tablespoons [30 ml.] of the butter, add% cup [150 ml.] of
the milk and cook for a further 5 to 6 minutes. Mash or sieve
t he cauliflower.
Make a roux from the remaining butter and the flour,
add 1 cup [ IJ. liter] of the milk and whisk the mixture until it
comes to a boil and thickens. Season this sauce with salt,
pepper and nutmeg to taste.
Combine the sauce and the cauliflower, and stir in the
eggs and cheese. Pour into a 1-quart [1-liter ] mold greased
with butter, and cover with a sheet of wax paper. Place the
mold in a large baking pan and pour in enough hot water to
reach halfway up the sides of the mold. Bake the cauliflower
in an oven, preheated to 375 F. [190 C.], for about 40 min-
utes. Unmold onto a warmed serving platter and serve hot.
THE COOK TO A FLORENTINE FAMILY
NOT ONLY SPAGHETTI!
Benarasi Cauliflower
Benarasi Gobi
This recipe is from the Banaras district in northeast India.
5 tbsp.
1 Y2 cups
2 tsp.
Y4 tsp.
Y2 to 1 tsp.
1 tsp.
Y2 cup
Y2 tsp.
Y4 tsp.
Y4 tsp.
2
2
To serve 4 to 6
large cauli flower, leaves and stalk
removed, divided into bite-sized
florets
clarified butter
coarsely chopped onions
ground coriander
ground turmeric
cayenne pepper
salt
drained canned tomatoes with Y2 cup
[ 125 mi.] of their liquid
cumin seeds
caraway seeds
black peppercorns
whole cloves
cardamom pods, seeds only
bay leaf
75 mi.
375 mi.
10 mi.
1 mi.
2 to 5 mi.
5ml.
125 mi.
2 mi.
1 mi.
1 mi.
2
2
Preheat the oven to 350 F. [180 C.]. Divide the cauliflower
florets into two portions. In a medium-sized, fireproof casse-
role, heat the butter and fry one portion of the cauliflower at
a time until each floret is lightly browned. Take the casse-
role off the heat; transfer the florets to a plate and set aside.
Puree the onion, coriander, turmeric, cayenne, salt and
tomatoes in a blender. Off the heat, stir the puree into the
butter left in the casserole. Return the casserole to medium-
low heat and cook, partially covered, for about 10 minutes, or
until the puree is reduced to a thick, moist sauce. Stir con-
st antly for the last few minutes to prevent sticking. Remove
the casserole from the heat.
Pulverize the cumin, caraway, peppercorns, cloves, car-
damom and bay leaf in the blender, and stir them into the
sauce. Fold in the reserved cauliflower until each piece is
coated with sauce. Cover and bake in the preheat ed oven: for
15 minutes, if you prefer the cauliflower to be quite crunchy,
or for up to 30 minutes, when the cauliflower will be com-
pletely t ender. Serve very hot.
SHIVAJI RAO AND SHALINI DEVI HOLKAR
THE COOKING OF THE MAHARAJAS
ll l
THE CABBAGE FAMILY /ROOTS AND TUBERS
Baked Cauliflower and Tomato Puree
Puree Gratinee De Chou-Fleur et de Tomate
To serve 6
1 Y2 quorts
2 tbsp.
1 cup
6 tbsp.
1 Y2 cups
1 tsp.
large cauliflower (about 21b. [ Y2 kg. ]),
divided into florets
woter
coarse salt
pureed tomato, well seasoned
butter
grated Gruyere cheese
salt
pepper
1 Y2 liters
30 mi.
% liter
90 mi.
375 mi.
5ml.
Put the water and the coarse salt in a large saucepan and
bring to a boil. Add the cauliflower and let it simmer for 20
minutes, or until just tender. Drain the cauliflower and pu-
ree it. Cook the pureed tomato with 4 tablespoons [60 ml.] of
the butter in a small saucepan for 5 minutes. In another
saucepan, heat together the rest of the butter, the cauli-
flower puree and half the cheese. Add the pureed tomato to
the mixture and blend well. Season to taste.
Spoon the mixed puree into a baking dish, sprinkle with
the rest of the cheese, and bake in a hot oven, preheated to
400 F. [200 C.], for 10 to 15 minutes or until browned.
ALI-BAB
ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY
Braised Chinese Cabbage
To serve 6
Chinese cabbage, sliced i nto Y4 -i nch
[6- mm.] rounds
3 tbsp. butter 45 mi.
1 onion, thinly sliced 1
1 tsp. sal t 5ml.
freshly ground pepper
1 cup chicken stock Y4 liter
Melt the butter in a skillet. Add the onion and saute until
limp. Add the cabbage, season it, and add the stock. Cover
tightly and simmer until the cabbage is cooked. After 7 min-
utes, taste for doneness. Chinese cabbage should be fairly
crisp to the bite when served. Drain and serve at once.
BERYL M. MARTON
OUT OF THE GARDEN INTO THE KITCHEN
112
31b.
2 tbsp.
2 tsp.
Y2 cup
1 tbsp.
Kohlrabi Country-Style
To serve 4
kohl rabi, cut into eighths or
thickly sl iced
salt
butter
flour
sour cream
finely cut fresh chives
1 Y2 kg.
30 mi.
10ml.
125 mi.
15 ml.
Boil the kohlrabi in salted water for about 20 minutes, or
until tender. Drain. In another saucepan, melt the butter.
Add the flour and cook for 5 minutes. Then add the cream
and cook, stirring, for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the kohlrabi to the
cream sauce, heat through for a minute or two over low heat,
or set the mixture over a pan of hot water if you are not ready
to serve it at once. Pour the kohlrabi into a warmed dish,
sprinkle with chives and serve.
4
2
5 tbsp.
1
1 tbsp.
1 cup
2 tbsp.
2 tbsp.
2 tbsp.
1 Y2 cups
LOUIS P. DE GOUY
THE GOLD COOK BOOK
Stuffed Kohlrabi
Gefiillte Kohlrabi
To serve 4
medium-sized kohlrabi
salt
hard-crust rolls, soaked in milk,
squeezed and mashed
butter
egg yolk, lightly beaten
finely cut fresh chives
sour cream
salt and pepper
bread crumbs, fried in a little butter
Kohlrabi sauce
butter
flour
kohl rabi cooking li quid
4
2
75 mi.
1
15 mi.
% liter
30 mi.
30 mi.
30 mi.
375 mi.
Put the kohlrabi in lightly salted boiling water. Cook, un-
covered, over medium heat for 30 minutes, or until tender.
Meanwhile, fry the mashed bread in 2 tablespoons [30
ml. ] of the butter until lightly colored, then add the egg yolk,
chives, 2 tablespoons of the sour cream, and salt and pepper
to taste. Drain the kohlrabi, reserving 1 '12 cups [375 ml.] of
the cooking liquid.
Make a thin sauce with the butter, flour and the cooking
liquid. Hollow out each kohlrabi from the stem end, leaving
the shell about V2 inch [1 em.] thick, chop the scooped-out
vegetable flesh and stir it into the bread mixture. Fill the
kohlrabi with the mixture and put them in a buttered bak-
ing dish. Top the kohlrabi with the bread crumbs fried in
butter, then melt the remaining 3 tablespoons [45 ml.] of
butter and sprinkle it on the crumbs. Pour the remaining
sour cream over the kohlrabi. Put the dish in an oven, pre-
heated to 425 F. [220 C. ], and bake for about 10 minutes.
Serve with the sauce.
8
ELEK MAGYAR
KOCHBUCH FOR FEINSCHMECKER
Kohlrabi in Cream and Dill Sauce
Kohlrabi a l'Aneth
To serve 6
kohlrabi heads, sliced Y4 inch [6
mm.] thick and cut into julienne Y4
inch [6 mm.] wide
salt
2 tbsp. butter
8
30 mi.
Y2 cup heavy cream 125 mi.
pepper
1 tbsp. chopped dill 1Sml.
1 tbsp. fresh lemon juice (optional) 15ml.
Blanch the kohlrabi in a large pan of salted boiling water for
2 to 3 minutes. Drain.
Heat the butter in another saucepan, add the kohlrabi
and toss well. Add the cream, salt and pepper. Allow to cook
for a few minutes, or until the cream coats the vegetables.
Add the dill and the lemon juice, if needed, and serve.
MADELEINE KAMMAN
WHEN FRENCH WOMEN COOK
~ t s and Tubers
Grated Beets, Russian- Style
This recipe is of Polish origin, but most Russians think of it
as one of their own national ways of serving beets.
To serve 6
4 cups coarsely grated row beets 1 liter
2 tbsp. butter 30 mi.
3 to 4 tbsp. fresh lemon juice 45to60ml.
1 Y2 tsp. salt 7 mi.
pepper
1 tbsp. flour 15ml.
Y2 cup water 125 mi.
Heat the butter in a skillet. Add the beets, lemon juice, salt
and a little pepper. Cover the skillet and cook for 25 minutes
over very low heat, stirring from time to time. Sift the flour
on top of the beets. Do not stir. Cover the skillet again and
continue cooking for 15 minutes, then stir and add the water.
Bring to a boil and serve.
ALEXANDRA KROPOTKIN
THE BEST OF RUSSIAN COOKING
Braised Beet Slices
Betterave a la Poitevine
To serve 2 or 3
3 Iorge fresh beets, peeled and sliced 3
2 tbsp. lord or butter 30 mi.
2 onions, thinly sli ced 2
garlic clove, thinly sl iced 1
2 tsp. flour 10ml.
1 tbsp. wine vinegar 15ml.
3
;4 cup chicken or veal stock 175 mi.
salt and pepper
Melt the fat in a fireproof earthenware casserole, and brown
the onions and garlic over low heat. Add the beet slices, cook
until golden brown, then sprinkle the slices on both sides
with the flour. Stir with a wooden spoon until the flour
browns, then add the vinegar and the stock to the casserole.
Season with salt and pepper, cover the casserole and sim-
mer gently over low heat for about 25 minutes, or until the
beet slices are cooked thoroughly. Serve hot.
JEAN MERCIER AND IRENE LABARRE
LA CUISINE DU POITOU ET DE LA VENDEE
113
ROOTS AND TUBERS
Carrots in Cream
Garottes Nouvelles a la Creme
This recipe is especially suited to the first new carrots of
spring. If older carrots are used, they should be thinly sliced
or cut into julienne.
To serve 4
1 lb. carrots, left whole if small, but cut into Y2 kg.
julienne 1 inch [2Y2 em.] long if large
Y4 cup water 50 mi.
1 tbsp. butter 15 mi.
salt and pepper
2 tbsp. fines herbes 30 mi.
Y2 cup heavy cream 125 mi.
2 or 3 egg yolks, lightly beaten 2 or 3
Put the carrots, water and butter in a saucepan. Season with
salt and pepper and add the fines herbes. Cook, uncovered,
over low heat. After 10 to 15 minutes, or when the carrots are
about half-cooked, stir in the cream. Continue to cook the
carrots very gently, uncovered, until they are tender. Re-
move the pan from the heat, stir a spoonful of the hot sauce
into the egg yolks and add them to the pan. Mix thoroughly,
but gently, and reheat the carrots for a moment without
boiling them. Serve immediately.
5 or 6
2 tbsp.
1 tbsp.
1 cup
Y2 tsp.
JULES BRETEUIL
LE CUISINIER EUROPEEN
Fried Carrots
Havuc Kizartmasi
To serve 4
medium-sized carrots (about 1 lb. [Y2
kg.]), sliced into Y4 -inch [6-
mm.] rounds
salt
olive oil
flour, seasoned wi th salt and pepper
unflavored yogurt, heated to
lukewarm
caraway seeds
5 or 6
30 ml.
15ml.
Y4 liter
2 mi.
Parboil the carrots in salty water. When they are almost
soft, drain and cool t hem a little. Heat the oil in a skillet, toss
the carrots in the seasoned flour, and then fry them in the oil
until they are brown. Arrange the carrots in a warmed serv-
ing dish, pour over them the heated yogurt, and sprinkle
with the caraway seeds.
VENICE LAMB
THE HOME BOOK OF TURKISH COOKERY
114
10 to 12
2 tbsp.
YJ cup
Carrots Cooked with Marsala
Carate al Marsala
To serve 4
medium-sized carrots, thinly sliced
butter
salt and freshly ground pepper
dry Marsala
10 to 12
30 mi.
75 mi.
In a heavy saucepan with a close-fitting lid, heat the butter.
Add the carrots and cook over medium heat, stirring con-
stantly, for about 2 minutes. Season lightly with salt and
pepper. Add the Marsala, cover tightly and simmer over
very low heat for 10 to 15 minutes, or until tender.
1 y4 lb.
2
4 tbsp.
Y2 cup
NIKA STANDEN HAZELTON
THE REGIONAL ITALIAN KITCHEN
Celeriac and Potato Puree
Puree de Celeri-raue
To serve 6
celeriac, sliced
salt
medium-sized potatoes, halved
butter
hot (not boi ling) mil k
sugar
2;3 kg.
2
60 mi.
125 mi.
Bring a pan of salted wat er to a boil. Add the celeriac and
cook, covered, at a light boil for 30 minutes. Add the potatoes
to the pan, cover, and cook for another 20 to 25 minutes, or
until the potatoes and the celeriac are t ender.
Drain the vegetables and put them through a sieve or
food mill to make a smooth puree. Transfer the puree to a
saute pan, add the butter and cook, stirring, over brisk heat.
Gradually add the milk, stirring constantly. Season with
salt and a pinch of sugar. Serve very hot.
MADAME SAI NT-ANGE
LA BONNE CUISINE DE MADAME SAINT-ANGE
1 lb.
6 tbsp.
3 oz.
Y2 cup
Celeriac Gratin
Celeri-rave au Gratin
To serve 2
celeriac, peeled and quartered
butter
salt
water
freshly grated Parmesan or Gruyere
cheese
Y2 kg.
90 mi.
75 mi.
125 mi.
Spread 2 tablespoons [30 ml.) of butter in a stainless-steel
saute pan and arrange the celeriac quarters in it. Season
with salt and add the water. Cook, covered, over low heat for
45 minutes, turning the quarters once or twice.
Drain the celeriac, reserving the liquid. Butter a shallow
gratin dish with another 2 tablespoons of butter and put in
the celeriac. Reduce the cooking liquid a little over high heat
and pour it over the celeriac. Melt the remaining butter.
Sprinkle the cheese and melted butter over the celeriac and
put in an oven, preheated to 425 F. [220 C.), for about 10
minutes or until the top is lightly colored.
3
2
5 tbsp.
Y2 cup
2 tbsp.
1 tbsp.
PROSPER MONTAGNE
MONMENU
Puree of Celeriac Gratin
Selleriepiiree, Vberbacken
To serve 4
celeriac, diced
small potatoes (about % lb. [1 25 g.)
each), diced
salt
butter
milk
freshly grated Parmesan cheese
dry bread crumbs
3
2
75 mi.
125 mi.
30 mi.
15 mi.
Boil the celeriac and potatoes in slightly salted water until
they are tender. Drain the vegetables and mash them, re-
serving the cooking liquid. Melt 4 tablespoons [60 ml.) of the
butter in a saucepan; add the mashed vegetables and cook
over low heat for a few minutes, stirring. Then, add the milk
and enough of the reserved cooking liquid to form a thin
puree. Grease a shallow ovenproof dish and put the puree in
it. Sprinkle the puree with the cheese, the bread crumbs and
the remaining butter cut into small pieces. Put the dish in an
oven, preheated to 400 F. [200 C.), and leave it there until
the surface of the puree is lightly browned-about 15 min-
utes. Serve with fried sausages.
HERMINE KIEHNLE AND MARIA HADECKE
DAS NEUE KIEHNLE KOCHBUCH
1 Y2 lb.
1
2 tbsp.
2
Y2 cup
Y2 cup
Jerusalem Artichoke Daube
Topinambours en Daube
To serve 3 or 4
Jerusalem artichokes, coarsely diced
medi um- sized onion, fi nely chopped
olive oil
salt and pepper
freshly grated nutmeg
garli c cloves, chopped
bouquet garni
dry red wine
water
% kg.
30 mi.
2
125 mi.
125 mi.
In a fireproof earthenware or enameled casserole, fry the
onion in the olive oil until slightly colored. Add the arti-
chokes, salt and pepper, nutmeg, garlic and bouquet garni.
Cover and allow to stew gently for 15 minutes, shaking the
casserole from time to time. Moisten with the wine and wa-
ter. Cook over high heat, uncover ed, until almost all of the
liquid has evaporated. Then cover and continue cooking,
over very low heat, for 1 hour.
C. CHANOT-BULLIER
VIEILLES RECETTES DE CUISINE PROVEN<;ALE
Crisped Parsnips
To serve 4
6 medium-sized parsnips 6
sal t
Y2 cup butter 125 mi.
1 cup flour Y4 liter
Split the parsnips in halflengthwise and cook them gently in
boiling salted water until tender. Drain and cool, then cut
them once again lengthwise. (Each parsnip has been divided
into fourths.) Roll the parsnips in 4 tablespoons [60 ml. ]
melted butter; set them aside on a plate to chill. When
chilled, dredge the parsnips with flour and saute them light-
ly in 4 tablespoons butter until crisp. This is a delicious
vegetable; so good that my family forgets manners and eats
them with their fingers, like candy.
ESTHER B. ARESTY
THE DELECTABLE PAST
115
ROOTS AND TUBERS
Parsnip Fritters
To serve 4
5 Iorge parsnips 5
salt
1 tbsp. fl our 15 mi.
1 tsp. brown sugar 5 mi.
1 tbsp. butter 15 mi.
block pepper, salt to taste
2 eggs 2
4 tbsp. butter 60 mi.
Scrape and cut the parsnips, put them into a saucepan with a
teaspoon [5 ml.] of salt and 2 quarts [2 liters] of boiling
water. Boil until perfectly tender, drain, then mash until
smooth; add the other ingredients, lastly the eggs. Make the
mix into round cakes and fry to a nice brown on both sides.
1 Y2 lb.
3 tbsp.
1
1 Y2 cups
2 tbsp.
1 Y2 cups
1
2 tsp.
MRS. PETER A. WHITE
THE KENTUCKY HOUSEWIFE
New Potatoes with
Chopped Mushrooms
Krielaardappels Duxelles
To serve 4
small new potatoes, peeled
butter
scal lion, including 2 inches [5 em.] of
the green top, finely chopped
finely chopped fresh mushrooms
flour
veal or chicken stock
boy leaf
finely chopped fresh parsley or mint
%kg.
45 mi.
1
375 mi.
30 mi.
375 mi.
1
10ml.
Boil the potatoes in salted water until tender-about 15
minutes. Drain and set them aside.
Melt the butter in a heavy saucepan. Saute the scallion
in it for 2 to 3 minutes, then stir in the mushrooms and saute
for 3 to 4 minutes. Add the flour and stir until smoothly
mixed. Gradually add the stock, stirring all t he time until
smooth. Add the bay leaf and bring the mixture to a boil,
then reduce the heat and simmer, uncovered, for 8 minutes.
Add the cooked potatoes to the sauce and, stirring occa-
sionally, heat through over low heat. Taste and adjust the
seasoning. Sprinkle with the parsley or mint and serve.
This dish goes well with broiled veal chops.
HUGHJANS
VRIJ NEDERLANDS KOOKBOEK
116
Parsnip and Mushroom Souffle
For instructions on how to prepare a collar for a souffle dish,
see the recipe for Turnip Souffle on page 127.
9
8 tbsp.
3 tbsp.
4
4
To serve 6
medium-sized parsnips (about 1 Y2 lb.
[% kg.])
fresh mushrooms, sliced (about 1 Y2
cups [375 mi.])
garli c clove, crushed
butter
heavy cream
egg yol ks
salt and pepper
egg whi tes, beaten until stiff
9
125 g.
120 mi.
45 mi.
4
4
Boil the parsnips until tender. Meanwhile, cook the mush-
rooms and garlic together gently in 2 tablespoons [30 ml. ] of
the butter. Peel the parsnips when cooked and put them
through a food mill. Stir in the mushroom mixture, t he re-
maining butter, the cream and the egg yolks. Season well
and gently fold in the egg whites with a metal spoon.
Pour the mixture into a 1-quart [1-liter] collared souffle
dish. Bake at 450 F. [230 C.] until the souffle has risen and
is brown on top-about 20 minutes. Serve immediately.
4 to 6
2
2or3
Y2 tsp.
JANE GRIGSON
GOOD THINGS
Smothered Potatoes
Patata Fgata
To serve 4
medium-sized potatoes, peeled and
cut into irregular shapes
medium-sized onions, sliced
garlic cloves, chopped
finely chopped marjoram, oregano or
thyme
Y2 cup water
4 to 6
2
2or3
2 mi.
125 mi.
3 or 4 tbsp. olive oil 45or60ml.
salt and pepper
Place the onions and the potatoes in a saucepan. Add the
garlic (as much as you like) and herbs. Now add the water
and pour the oil over the potatoes. Season and cover. Cook
over fierce heat until the mixture begins to bubble, then
lower the heat as much as possible and leave to simmer. The
dish should be ready in about 20 minutes.
ANNE AND HELEN CARUANA GALIZIA
RECIPES FROM MALTA
Mashed Potatoes and Turnips
Stwns
It is a custom in Wales to combine mashed potatoes with
other cooked vegetables to make stwns-named after the
stwnsher, or specially carved wooden tool traditionally used
to mash the vegetables. Peas, broad beans and rutabagas as
well as turnips are used, and the mixture is usually served
with fried liver and onions.
3
5 or 6
6 tbsp.
To ser ve 6 to 8
medium-sized potatoes (about 1 lb.
[ Y2 kg.]), boiled and mashed
young turnips (about 1 lb. [Y2 kg.]),
boiled and mashed with the potatoes
butter
salt and pepper
buttermil k
3
5 or 6
90 mi.
In a saucepan, mix the potatoes, turnips and butter. Season
with salt and pepper, and add enough buttermilk to give the
mixture a creamy consistency. Heat through and serve.
7
1 tbsp.
2
1 tsp.
1 tsp.
1 tsp.
2
2 tbsp.
1 tbsp.
LIZZIE BOYD (EDITOR)
BRITISH COOKERY
Potatoes in White Caper Sauce
Pommes de Terre a la Polonaise
To serve 4
medium-sized potatoes (about 2
lb. [1 kg.])
olive oil or butter
large onions, quartered
crumbled dried thyme
crumbled bay leaf
crumbled dried basil
whole cloves
salt and coarsely ground pepper
White caper sauce
shallot, finely chopped
olive oil
flour
1 Y2 cups beef or veal stock
1 tbsp. capers, rinsed and drained well
salt and pepper
7
15ml.
2
Sml.
Sml.
Sml.
2
30 mi.
15 mi.
375 mi.
15 mi.
First, make the white caper sauce. Gently cook the shallot in
the oil for about 5 minutes until softened. Add the flour and
stir over low heat for 2 minutes, without browning. Gradual-
ly stir in the stock. Add the capers, season with salt and
pepper, and cook until thickened, about 20 minutes.
Boil the potatoes, unpeeled, in water with the oil or but-
ter, the onions, thyme, bay leaf, basil , cloves, salt and pep-
per. Let the potatoes boil until they are soft to the touch; turn
them into a colander to drain; peel them while they are still
hot. Cut each potato into not more than two or three pieces
and pour the white caper sauce over them.
OFFRAY AINE
LE CUISINIER MERIDIONAL
Potatoes in Sour Cream
To serve 4
21b. small new potatoes
1 kg.
1 cup sour cream
Y4 liter
salt
4 scallions, including 2 inches [5 em. ] of
the green tops, finely chopped
4
Y3 cup finely chopped fresh dill
75 mi.
Drop the potatoes into boiling water, cover, and cook t hem
for about 20 minutes, or until tender. Drain and peel them
while they are hot. Combine them with the sour cream, add
salt to taste, and toss gently. Sprinkle them with the scal-
lions and dill, and serve.
As a variation, use melted butter instead of sour cream.
SONIA UVEZIAN
THE BEST FOODS OF RUSSIA
Aromatic Potatoes
Pommes de Terre a la Barigoule
To serve 4 to 6
1 lb. small new potatoes Y2 kg.
1 cup chicken or veal stock % liter
1 cup water Y4 liter
Y4 cup olive oil 50 mi.
salt and pepper
1 medium-sized onion, chopped 1
2 small turnips or parsnips, diced 2
bouquet garni
Put the potatoes in the stock and water with the olive oil, a
little salt and pepper, the onion, the turnips or parsnips and
the bouquet garni. Boil them, uncovered, until the liquid
evaporates. When the vegetables are tender and there is no
stock or water left, discard the bouquet garni. Let the vege-
tables fry for a few minutes in the oil, stirring constantly.
When they are a nice color, serve the vegetables accompa-
nied by olive oil, vinegar, salt and pepper.
MERIGOT
LA CUISINIERE REPUBLICAINE
117
ROOTS AND TUBERS
Potatoes with Salt Pork and Cheese
La Truffado
The tome called for in this recipe is the fresh, unfermented
cheese of Cantal. If unavailable, substitute Port-Salut.
5
2 tbsp.
2
To serve 4
medium-sized potatoes (about 1 Y2 lb.
[% kg.]), cut into slices Ya
inch [3 mm.] thick
leon salt pork with the rind removed,
blanched in boiling water for 5
minutes, drained and diced
oil or butter
salt and pepper
garlic cloves, finely chopped
tome cheese, cut into small dice
5
125 g.
30 mi.
2
In a skillet, lightly fry the salt pork in the oil or butter, then
add the potatoes; shake the pan frequently so the potatoes do
not stick. Season with salt, pepper and the chopped garlic.
When the potatoes are cooked-after about 10 min-
utes-drain off any excess fat and add the fresh tome, dis-
tributing it as well as you can by turning over the potatoes
two or three times. Cover and set aside for about 5 minutes so
that the cheese will melt with the heat from the potatoes.
The tome must melt and become "thready" but should never
become oily. Serve immediately.
AUSTIN DE CROZE
LES PLATS REGIONAUX DE FRANCE
Potato Floddies
To serve 6
4 medium-sized potatoes, grated 4
2 medium- sized onions, finely chopped 2
Y2 cup flour 125 mi.
egg
mil k
salt and pepper
4 tbsp. lord 60 mi.
Mix the potatoes and onions, blend with the flour and egg,
and beat with enough milk to give a stiffbatter. Season with
salt and pepper. Fry tablespoons of the mixture in the lard
until they are golden.
Grated cheese, fried sausage meat or chopped herbs may
be added to the batter mixture, and the floddies served as a
complete supper dish.
118
LIZZIE BOYD (EDITOR)
BRITISH COOKERY
4 or 5
2
6 tbsp.
1 quart
Potato Croquettes
To serve 4 or 5
medium-sized potatoes (about 1 Y2 lb.
[ % kg.]), boiled and mashed
egg yol ks
salt and black pepper
grated nutmeg
egg, beaten
fine dry bread crumbs
peanut oil or a mixture of peanut oil
and butter
4 or 5
2
90 mi.
1 liter
Beat the egg yolks into the potatoes. Season with salt, pep-
per and a little grated nutmeg. Spread out the mixture on a
floured board. When the mixture is cool, divide it into 15 or
16 equal parts and form these into rolls, or croquettes. Coat
each croquette first with the beaten egg, and then with the
bread crumbs. Heat the peanut oil, or butter and oil, and fry
the croquettes until golden on all sides. Drain on paper tow-
els. Serve as soon as possible.
ARABELLA BOXER
NATURE'S HARVEST: THE VEGETABLE COOKBOOK
French Potato Pancake
Pommes de terre Darphin
For best results, cover the skillet for the first half of the cook-
ing time but leave it uncovered for the second half Whenever
the lid is lifted, it should be held horizontally so that none of
the water that has condensed on its undersurface drips back
into the skillet.
6
7 tbsp.
1 tbsp.
To serve 4
medium-sized potatoes, cut into
julienne or coarsely grated
salt
butter
oil
6
105 mi.
15 mi.
Dry the potatoes in a towel, spread them out on a large plate
and sprinkle them lightly with salt. Heat the butter with the
oil in a large, heavy skillet. Cook the potatoes over low-to-
medium heat for about 20 minutes or until they are golden
brown on one side, then turn them over like a pancake and do
the same to the other side. Place the potato pancake on a
warmed platter and serve very hot.
RAYMOND OLIVER
LA CUISINE
8
10 tbsp.
Hash-brown Potatoes
To serve 3 or 4
medium-sized (or 10 smal l) waxy
potatoes, boiled, peeled and
coarsely chopped
butter, beef drippings or rendered
bacon fat
salt and freshly ground pepper
8
150 mi.
Melt 6 tablespoons [90 ml.] of the butter, beef drippings or
bacon fat in a heavy iron or aluminum skillet. Add the pota-
toes, forming them into a flat cake and pressing them down.
Let them cook over medium heat for about 5 or 6 minutes
until a crust forms on the bottom. Run a spatula around the
edge to keep the cake loose and shake the pan gently from
time to time. Add another 2 tablespoons [30 mi.] of fat on top
and let it trickle through the potatoes. Salt them and give
them a few grinds of pepper .
Offthe heat, place a large plate or pan over the skillet for
a moment or two and let the cake steam. Invert the cake
quickfy onto the plate. Melt the remaining fat in the skillet
and slide the cake back into it to brown the other side. Slide
it out onto a warmed platter.
8
1 cup
2
2 cups
JAMES BEARD
JAMES BEARD'S AMERICAN COOKERY
Potato Patties
Cotelettes de Pommes de Terre
To serve 6 to 8
medium-sized potatoes (about 2 lb.
[1 kg. ] )
flour
chopped fines herbes
salt and pepper
grated nutmeg
eggs, lightly beaten
oil for deep frying
8
Y4 liter
50 mi.
2
Y2 liter
Grate the peeled potatoes and put them in a colander lined
with cheesecloth and set over a bowl. Allow the potatoes to
drain for an hour. In a bowl, mix the potatoes thoroughly
with the flour. Add the fines herbes, and season well with
salt, pepper and nutmeg. Blend in the eggs.
Heat the oil. With a tablespoon, drop spoonfuls of the
mixture into the hot oil. Fry until nicely browned all over.
Drain on paper towels, and serve the potato patties very hot.
GINE'ITE MATHIOT
A TABLE AVEC EDOUARD DE POMIANE
Ringed Potatoes
Instructions for shaving potatoes are given on page 57.
3
8 tbsp.
To serve 4
medium-sized potatoes (about 1 lb.
[Y2 kg.])
lard
salt
3
120 mi.
After peeling the potatoes, use your knife or potato peeler to
shave them round and round in rings, as you would pare an
apple. In a large skillet, heat the lard until very hot, and add
the potato rings. Fry over moderately high heat, stirring so
that they brown evenly without sticking.
When the potato rings are cooked and crisp, drain them.
Then place them on a warmed platter and sprinkle with salt.
Serve immediately.
THE BUCKEYE COOKBOOK
Stuffed Potatoes
Gefiillte Kartoffeln
To serve 4
4 large potatoes, peeled 4
salt and pepper
8 tbsp. butter 120 mi.
%cup grated Gruyere cheese 175 mi.
egg yolk 1
Y4 cup sour cream 50 mi.
Trim off the ends of the potatoes, keeping four of the end
pieces for lids. Hollow out each potato and st and it upright.
Grate the scooped-out potato, season it with salt and pepper,
and mix it with 4 tablespoons [60 ml.] of the butter, lf.t cup
[50 ml.] of the cheese, the egg yolk and the sour cream. Fill
the potatoes with this mixture and cover with the potato lids.
Stand the potatoes in an ovenproof dish. Melt the remaining
butter and pour it over the potatoes. Bake in a moderate
oven, preheated to 350 F. [180 C.], for 45 minutes to 1 hour,
basting from time to time. Before serving, sprinkle with t he
remaining cheese.
ELEKMAGYAR
KOCHBUCH FUR FEINSCHMECKER
119
ROOTS AND TUBERS
Baked Potatoes with Cream and Chives
Pommes de Terre Roties Fermiere
To serve 4
4 Iorge potatoes (about 6 oz. [175 g.]
each), baked in their ski ns and halved
4
lengthwise
4 tbsp. butter 60 mi.
YJ cup cream 75 mi.
2 tbsp. finely cut fresh chives 30 mi.
salt and pepper
V3 cup fine, freshly grated Parmesan or 75 mi.
Gruyere-type cheese
Scoop out the pulp of the baked potatoes into a bowl. Break it
up with a fork or whisk, and mix in the butter, cream, chives
and seasoning. Beat until smooth. Refill the potato skins
with this mixture, scatter the cheese over the top, and put
under the broiler for about 5 minutes, or until brown.
6
3 tbsp.
4 cups
1 tbsp.
A.BAUTIE
239 MANIERES D'ACCOMMODER LES POMMES DE TERRE
Baked Potatoes
Stuffed with Mushrooms
To serve 6
large baking potatoes, approximately
Y2 lb. [Y4 kg.] each
smal l piece pork fat
leek, white port only, chopped, or 1
onion, chopped
butter
finely chopped fresh mushrooms
(about % lb. (Y3 kg.])
egg yolk, lightly beaten
salt
pepper
grated nutmeg
cream or milk (optional)
6
45 mi.
1 liter
15ml.
Rub the outsides of the potatoes with the pork fat, and bake
them in a 425 F. [220 C. ] oven for about 1 hour.
Meanwhile, in a large skillet, cook the leek or the on-
ion- leek tastes a little better if you can get one-in 2 table-
spoons [30 ml.] of hot butter for 10 minutes, without brown-
ing. Add the chopped mushrooms to the pan with the leek or
onion and cook slowly for 10 minutes. Season with salt, pep-
120
per and a small pinch of nutmeg. Add the egg yolk. Remove
the pan from the heat.
When the potatoes ar e baked, cut off and discard a
lengthwise slice and scoop out a little more than half of the
pulp. Mix the scooped-out potato pulp with the mushrooms,
adding the cr eam or milk if the mixture seems too thick.
Stuff t he potato shells with the mushroom mixture,
rounding off the tops to neat mounds. Melt t he remaining
tablespoon [15 ml.] of butter and sprinkle it over t he pota-
toes. Return them to the oven for 15 minutes.
ALEXANDRA KROPOTKIN
THE BEST OF RUSSIAN COOKING
Potato Pancakes with Applesauce
Kartoffelpuffer mit Apfelmus
6
2
Y4 cup
V3 cup
1 tsp.
To serve 6 as a vegetable
medium-sized potatoes (about 2 lb. [ 1
kg.]), preferably baking potatoes
eggs
finely grated onion
flour
salt
rendered bacon fat or lord
applesauce or imported lingonberry
(Preiselbeeren) preserves
6
2
50 mi.
75 mi.
5ml.
Peel the potatoes and, as you proceed, drop them into cold
water to prevent their discoloring. In a large mixing bowl,
beat the eggs enough to break them up, add the onion and
gradually beat in the flour and salt. One at a time, pat the
potatoes dry and grate them coarsely into a sieve or colan-
der. Press down each potato firmly into the sieve to squeeze
out as much moist ure as possible, then immediately stir the
potato into the egg and onion batter.
Preheat t he oven to 250 F. [120 C.]. In a heavy 8- to 10-
inch [20- to 25-cm. ] skillet, melt 8 tablespoons [120 ml. ] of
bacon fat or lard over high heat until it splutter s. Pour in %
cup [75 ml. ] of t he potato mixture and, with a large spatula,
flatten it into a pancake about 5 inches [13 em.] in diameter.
Fry it over moderate heat for about 2 minutes on each side.
When the pancake is golden brown on both sides and crisp
around the edges, transfer it to a heated, ovenproof plate and
keep it warm in the oven. Cont inue making similar pan-
cakes with the remaining batter, adding more fat to the pan
when necessary to keep it at a depth of 1,4 inch [6 mm.]. Serve
the pancakes as soon as possible with applesauce or lingon-
berry preserves.
FOODS OF THE WORLD/ I'HE COOKING OF GERMANY
15
16 tbsp.
6 cups
Curnonsky's Potato Gratin
Gratin Dauphinais
To serve 6 to 8
medium-sized waxy potatoes (about
4 lb. [2 kg. ]), finely sliced
salt and pepper
grated nutmeg {optional)
butter
garlic clove (optional )
light cream
15
240 mi.
1 Y2 liters
Wash the potato slices, dry them in a towel , then season
them with salt and pepper. (One may add a suspicion of
nutmeg, but that is not to all tastes.)
Butter a large gratin dish (in the country, they rub the
interior ofthe dish with a clove of garlic before buttering it).
Layer the potatoes in the dish up to lh inch [1 em.] from the
top, in order that they can be covered with the light cream.
Place a few pieces of butter here and there. Set the potatoes
to cook gently in an oven, preheated to 325 F. [160 C.], for
1Vz to 2 hours. Serve immediately.
Above all, do not put in eggs or cheese. Eggs deprive the
gratin of all its smoothness by leaving lumps of more or less
scrambled egg inside it; cheese distorts the flavor.
10
1
5
Y2 cup
3
Y4 tsp.
CURNONSKY
CUISINE ET VINS DE FRANCE
Lithuanian Potato Pudding
To serve 4 to 6
large potatoes (about 2Y2 lb. [2 kg.])
medium-sized onion
slices bacon
mil k, warmed
eggs, beaten
pepper
salt and pepper to taste
10
1
5
125 mi .
3
1 mi.
Finely grate the potatoes and onion into a bowl. Cut the
bacon crosswise into narrow strips, and fry until crisp. Pour
the fat and the bacon over the potatoes. Add the hot milk.
Add the beaten eggs, a little at a time, and the salt and
pepper. Pour the mixt ure into a greased 12-by-18-inch [30-
by-45-cm.] roasting pan. Bake in an oven, which has been
preheated to 400 F. [200 C.], for 15 minutes. Reduce the
heat to 375 F. [190 C.] and bake for 45 minutes longer, or
until the top is nicely browned. Cut the pudding into squares
and serve hot with sour cream.
GLADYS TABER
MY OWN COOK BOOK: FROM STILLMEADOW & CAPE COD
1 lb.
2 cups
Potatoes Cooked in Milk
To serve 3 or 4
potatoes, thickly sliced, or whole,
small new potatoes
milk
salt
grated nutmeg
dried thyme or basil
Y2 liter
Pour the cold, uncooked milk over the potatoes in a sauce-
pan, add a very little salt and simmer (if you let the milk boil,
it will spill over and the potatoes will stick, so look out) until
the potatoes are just tender but not breaking up. Strain off
the milk-it makes good vegetable-soup stock-and trans-
fer the potatoes to a shallow ovenproof dish. Sprinkle them
very lightly with nutmeg and a little thyme or basil, add 3 to
4 tablespoons [45 to 60 ml.] of the milk and leave them
uncovered in an oven, preheated to 300 to 350 F. [150 to
180 C.], for about 15 minutes.
ELIZABETH DAVID
SPICES, SALT AND AROMATICS IN THE ENGLISH KITCHEN
6 or 7
Fernand Point's Potato Gratin

Veritable Gratin Dauphinais
To serve 4 to 6
waxy potatoes (about 2 lb. [ 1 kg.]L
peeled, wiped dry and thinly sliced
garlic clove
salt and pepper
8tbsp. butter
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1 % cups milk, boiled and cooled
1 tbsp. heavy cream
6 or 7
120 mi.
2
400 mi.
15 mi.
Take a large baking dish of enameled ironware or fireproof
earthenware, and rub it lightly with garlic and then with
salt. Butter it and spread the potatoes (overlapping) in a
single layer. Salt and pepper the potatoes lightly. Mix the
beaten eggs, milk and cream-no suggestion of any cheese.
Coat the potatoes with this mixture and dot the top with
pieces of butter. Start cooking the potatoes on top of the
stove, over very low heat for about 15 minutes, and finish
cooking in a moderate oven, preheated to 350 F. [180 C.],
for about 40 minutes. Scatter some pieces of butter on top
and serve from the cooking dish, while it is very hot.
FERN AND POINT
MA GASTRONOMIE
121
ROOTS AND TUBERS
Potatoes Languedoc-Style
Pommes de T erre a la Languedocienne
To serve 4
2 to 2Y2 lb. Iorge, long potatoes 1 kg.
Y4 cup chopped onion 50 mi.
1 tbsp. butter 15 mi.
1 tbsp. oil 15 mi.
2 Iorge tomatoes peeled, chopped and
lightly sauteed in 2 tbsp. [30 mi.]
2
olive oil
salt and pepper
1 tsp. ground thyme 5 mi.
1 tsp. crumbled boy leaf 5 mi.
1 cup veal or chicken stock, or water Y4 liter
1 small garli c clove, crushed
In a fireproof casserole saute the onion in the butter and oil.
Lay the potatoes on top and cover them with the tomatoes.
Season with salt, pepper, thyme and bay leaf. Moisten with
the stock or water and add the garlic. Cover and cook in an
oven, preheated to 325 F. [160 C.], for 50 minutes to 1 hour,
basting regularly with the cooking liquid.
3 to 4
3
Y3 cup
Y2 tsp.
1 Y2 tsp.
Ya tsp.
3 tbsp.
4 tbsp.
PROSPER MONTAGNE
MONMENU
Potato Kugel
To serve 6 to 8
medium-sized potatoes, peeled, grated
and drained (about 3 cups [
3
/4 liter])
eggs
potato flour
baking powder
salt
pepper
grated onion
butter, melted
3 to 4
3
75 mi.
2 mi.
7 mi.
Y2 mi.
45 mi.
60 mi.
In a large bowl, beat the eggs until they are thick. Stir in the
potatoes, potato flour, baking powder, salt, pepper, onion
and melted butter. Turn the mixture into a greased 1lf2-
quart [11f2-liter] baking dish. Bake the kugel in an oven,
preheated to 350 F. [180 C.], for about an hour, or until
browned. Serve the kugel hot.
122
JENNIE GROSSINGER
THE ART OF J EWISH COOKING
Jansson's Temptation
Jansson's Frestelse
To serve 4 to 6
7 medium-sized boiling potatoes,
peeled, sliced Y4 inch [6 mm.] thick
7
and cut into strips 2 inches [5 em. ] long
4 Y2 tbsp. butter with 2 tbsp. [30 mi. ] cut into bits 75 mi.
2 tbsp. vegetable oi l 30 mi.
2 to 3 Iorge yell ow onions, thinly sliced 2 to 3
16 anchovy fill ets, soaked in cold 16
water for 10 minutes, patted dry and
finely chopped
whi te pepper
2 tbsp. fine dry bread crumbs 30 mi.
Y2 cup mil k 125 mi.
1 cup heavy cream Y4 liter
Preheat the oven to 400 F. [200 C. ]. Place the potato strips
in cold water to keep them from discolor ing. Heat 2 table-
spoons [30 ml.] of the butter with the oil in a 10- to 12-inch
[25- to 30-cm.] skillet. When the foam subsides, add the on-
ions and cook for 10 minutes, stirring frequently, until they
are soft but not brown.
With a pastry brush or paper towel, spread a 1V2- to 2-
quart [1 lf2- to 2-liter] souffle dish or baking dish with lf2
tablespoon [7 ml. ] of butter. Drain the potatoes and pat them
dry with paper towels. Arrange a layer of potatoes on the
bottom of the dish and then alternate layers of onions, an-
chovies and potatoes, ending with a layer of potatoes. Sprin-
kle each layer with a little white pepper. Scatter bread
crumbs over the top layer of potatoes and dot the crumbs
with the butter bits.
In a small saucepan, heat the milk and cream until the
mixture just simmers, then pour it slowly down the sides of
the dish. Bake in the center of the oven for 45 minutes, or
until the potatoes are tender when pierced with the tip of a
sharp knife and the liquid is nearly absorbed.
FOODS OF THE WORLDtrHE COOKING OF SCANDINAVIA
Seethed Potatoes
This simple, but almost forgotten, traditional recipe for cook-
ing potatoes comes from a book published in 1916.
To serve 2 to 4
1 lb. small new potatoes, unpeeled
salt
1 tbsp. butter (optional) 15 mi.
Put the potatoes in a cast-iron pot with a sprinkling of salt
and very little water. A small piece of butter may also be
added. Cook, uncovered, over low heat for 40 minutes, or
until the potatoes are tender. No person who has not eaten
potatoes thus prepared can conceive how delicious they are.
MAY BYRON
MAY BYRON'S VEGETABLE BOOK
Creamed Potatoes, Spanish-Style
Patatas ala Crema
To serve 4 to 6
2 to 2Y2 lb. potatoes, cut into Y2 - inch [1 -cm.]
slices
2 tbsp. olive oil
1 tbsp. flour
salt
2 garlic cloves, chopped
2 tbsp. chopped fresh parsley
1 tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1 egg, lightly beaten
1 kg.
30 mi.
15 ml.
2
30 mi.
15 ml.
1
Heat the olive oil in a saucepan, blend in the flour, cook for a
moment, then immediately add the potatoes. Cook for a few
minutes, turning over the potatoes, then pour in just enough
water to cover. Season with salt , add the garlic and 1 table-
spoon [15 ml. ] of t he chopped parsley, and leave to cook,
stirring from time to time with great care so as not to break
the potatoes. When the potatoes are tender, after about 20
minutes, remove them from the heat, and add the lemon
juice and egg. Mix well, but very carefully, turn onto a
warmed dish and sprinkle with the rest of the parsley.
8
5 tbsp.
2 tbsp.
YJ cup
2 tbsp.
VICTORIA SERRA, TRANSLATED BY ELIZABETH GILl
TIA VICTORIA' S SPANISH KITCHEN
Sweet Potato Tipsy
To serve 8
medium-sized sweet potatoes (about
2 Y2 lb.[ 1 kg.] )
butter
brown sugar
light cream
sweet sherry
8
75 mi.
30 mi.
75 mi.
30 mi.
Boil the sweet potatoes until tender (about 25 to 30 minutes).
Peel, mash, then whip them, adding t he butter, brown sugar,
cream and sherry. Turn the pot atoes into a buttered casse-
role. Bake in an oven, preheated to 350 F. [180 C. ], for
about 25 minutes or until t he top is browned.
CLEMENTINE PADDLEFORD
THE BEST I N AMERICAN COOKING
8 to 10
Y2 lb.
2
Potato with Salt Pork and Onion
Matahami
To serve 4
medium-sized potatoes (about 2 to
2 Y2 lb. [ 1 kg.]), washed but not peeled
8 to 10
sal t pork without the ri nd, blanched in
boiling water for 5 minutes, drained
and sliced
salt and pepper
large onions, coarsely chopped 2
Boil the potatoes in t heir skins. When they are cooked, peel
them and cut them into fairly thick rounds. Line an oven-
proof dish or casserole with a tight-fitt ing lid with half of the
salt pork. Put in a layer of potatoes, season lightly with salt
and pepper, t hen add a layer of onions and so on until all the
potatoes and onions are used up. Cover t he top with the
remaining slices of salt pork and cook, covered, in an oven,
preheated to 375 F. [190 C.], for about 30 minutes.
SIMIN PALAY
LA CUISINE DU PAYS
Sweet Potato and Apple
To serve 10
6 medium-sized sweet potatoes 6
Y2 cup molasses 125 mi.
8 tbsp. butter 120 mi.
4 medium-sized apples, cored and cut 4
into Y2 -inch [ 1-cm. ] slices
Y4 cup fresh orange juice 50 mi.
1 tbsp. grated orange peel lSml.
Y2 tsp. salt 2 mi.
Scrub the sweet potatoes, submer ge them in boiling salt ed
water , cover and simmer for 30 minutes, or until the pota-
toes are tender.
Meanwhile, in a skillet , heat % cup [50 ml. ] of t he molas-
ses with 4 tablespoons [60 ml.] of t he butter . Add the apple
slices and turn them to coat wit h the mixture. Simmer the
apple slices very gently for about 10 minutes, or unt il bar ely
tender, turning them twice during the cooking.
Drain the sweet potat oes, peel, and mash t hem or puree
them in a food mill. Add t he remaining molasses, the orange
juice, orange peel and salt. Beat the mixture until it is light
and fluffy. Mound the mixture on top of t he apple slices and
serve immediately.
JEAN HEWITT
THE NEW YORK TIMES NATURAL FOODS COOKBOOK
123
ROOTS AND TUBERS
4
1 tsp.
2 cups
2 cups
Sweet Potatoes Congolese
Beignets de Patates Douces
To serve 4
medium-sized sweet potatoes
honey
brandy
grated lemon peel
fat for deep frying
Beer batter
flour
light beer
4
50 mi.
50 mi.
5 mi.
Y2 liter
Y2 li ter
Blend the flour and the beer until a smooth batter is ob-
tained. Set the batter aside.
Blanch the sweet potatoes for 5 minutes in boiling water.
Peel and slice them. Marinate them for 1 hour in the honey,
brandy and lemon peel mixture. Without drying the slices,
dip them in the batter. Fry them in the deep fat heated to
390 F. [195 C.] until golden brown. Serve very hot. These
fritters are excellent with roast turkey.
J ULIE'ITE ELK ON
A BELGIAN COOKBOOK
Stuffed Yams
To serve 6
6 yams, 4 to 5 inches [12 em.] long 6
2 tbsp. butter 30 mi.
Y2 tsp. salt 2 mi.
heavy cream
Bake the yams in an oven, preheated to 400 F. [200 C.], for
about 50 minutes. Scoop out the flesh of the yams and mix it
with butter, salt and enough cream to make a soft puree.
Refill the skins with the puree and bake for about 5 minutes.
JIM HARWOOD AND ED CALLAHAN
SOUL FOOD COOK BOOK
Baked Sweet Potatoes
To serve 8
6 large sweet potatoes
2 to 3 tbsp. sugar
2 to 3 tbsp. butter
2 tbsp. water
6
30 to 45 mi.
30 to45 ml.
30 mi.
Boil the sweet potatoes in lightly salted water; when done,
peel and slice them lengthwise into two or three pieces. Put a
124
layer of potatoes in a deep baking dish, sprinkle them with 1
tablespoon [15 ml.] of sugar, and scatter 1 tablespoon of
butter, cut in small pieces, over the potatoes. Then make
another layer of potatoes, sugar, and butter pieces; lastly,
add some thin slices of butter and sprinkle sugar freely over
them. Bake the potatoes for about 20 minutes in an oven
preheated to 375 F. [190 C.]. Before serving, sprinkle about
2 tablespoons [30 ml.] of hot water over the potatoes, then
add some more sugar.
MRS. PETER A. WHITE
THE KENTUCKY HOUSEWIFE
Baked Sweet Potatoes with Apples
To serve 6
3 large sweet potatoes, boiled 3
3 large apples, peeled, cored and 3
sliced
5 tbsp. butter 75 mi.
1 tsp. salt 5 mi.
Y2 cup maple syrup 125 mi.
Fry the apples in 3 tablespoons [45 ml.] of the butter until
they are light brown. Slice the potatoes. Arrange the apples
and potatoes in alternate layers in a buttered 1 V2-quart [1 %-
liter] baking dish. Add the salt. Pour the syrup over this and
dot the layers with small pieces of the remaining butter.
Bake in a moderate oven, preheat ed to 350 F. [180 C.], for
about 30 minutes or until the syrup has been absorbed and
the top is lightly browned.
MARY PEARL
VERMONT MAPLE RECIPES
Candied Sweet Potatoes
Camotes Garapifiados
To serve 6
6 medium-sized sweet potatoes, 6
quartered
4 tbsp. butter 60 mi.
Y2 cup sugar 125 mi.
Y4 cup hot water 50 mi.
Y4 cup dry white wine 50 mi.
1 Y2 tbsp. ground ci nnamon 22 mi.
Ya tsp. salt Y2 mi.
In a skillet, fry the potatoes in the butter until brown. Add
the rest of the ingredients and stir well. Cover and simmer
until all the liquid has been absorbed or the potatoes are
tender, about 20 minutes. Serve the potatoes with ham.
DON CARLOS
SPANISH-MEXICAN COOKBOOK
Old-fashioned Sweet Potato Pone
To serve 6
6 medium-sized sweet potatoes 6
2 cups sugar Y2 liter
Y4 cup butter, cut into smal l pieces 50 mi.
3 eggs, li ghtly beaten 3
1 tsp. ground cinnamon 5 mi.
1 tsp. ground allspi ce 5ml.
1 tsp. grated nutmeg 5 mi.
1 tsp. ground cloves 5 mi.
1 Y2 cups white raisins 375 mi.
Boil the potatoes until tender. Peel, and place them in a
single layer in a baking dish. In a bowl, blend the sugar and
butter. Mix in the remaining ingredients. Pour this mixture
over the potatoes. Bake in a preheated 250 F. [120 C. ] oven
for 1 hour or until the potato pone has caramelized.
2 1b.
CLEMENTINE PADDLEFORD
THE BEST IN AMERICAN COOKING
Mashed Rutabagas
To serve 4
rutabagas, sliced 1 inch [2Y2 em.] thick
and cut into l -i nch cubes
1 kg.
4 to 6 tbsp. butter 60 to 90 mi.
chicken or beef stock 50 mi.
salt
freshly ground pepper
ground mace
dry sherry 50 mi.
Cook the rutabagas in boiling salted water for 10 minutes, or
until very tender. Drain and put them through a ricer. Re-
turn the rutabagas to the saucepan. Over low heat, stir in 4
tablespoons [60 ml.] of the butter . Stir in the stock, and
season the mixture with salt, pepper and a pinch of mace.
Beat as you would mashed potatoes; if the rutabagas are too
dry, beat in all or part of the remaining butter. Beat in the
sherry. Cook, beating constantly, for 2 or 3 mor e minutes.
Serve very hot.
NIKA HAZELTON
THE UNABRIDGED VEGETABLE COOKBOOK
Salsify in Butter and Onion Sauce
Schwarzwurzeln in Buttersosse
To serve 6 to 8
2 to 2 Y2 lb. salsify 1 kg.
1 tbsp. flour 15 mi.
2 tbsp. wine vi negar 30 mi.
l cup mil k Y4 liter
l quart water, lightly sal ted 1 liter
Butter and onion sauce
3 tbsp. butter 45 mi.
1 medium-sized onion, chopped 1
Y3 cup fl our 75 mi.
l cup meat or vegetable stock Y4 liter
2 cups mil k Y2 liter
salt
Ys tsp. grated nutmeg Y2 mi.
1 tbsp. fresh lemon juice l5ml.
2 tbsp. heavy cream 30 mi.
1 egg yolk l
Have ready a bowl of cold water containing the flour and
vinegar. Peel the salsify and cut it, crosswise, into 114-inch
[3-cm.] rounds, putting them straight into the bowl; this will
keep them from turning black. Put the milk and salted water
in a large pot, bring to a boil and add the salsify, cooking
until it is slightly softened-about 15 minutes. Drain, place
the salsify in a saucepan, and cover to keep it warm.
In another saucepan, prepare the sauce. Cook the onion
in the butter, add the flour, stir in the stock and milk and
bring to a boil , stirring all the time. Then lower the heat and
cook until the sauce is thickened, still stirring. Add salt, the
nutmeg and the lemon juice.
Put the sauce through a sieve and pour it over the salsify.
Cover the pan and simmer the salsify until done-about 40
minutes. Just before serving, mix the cream and egg yolk
and stir them into the sauce without letting it boil.
HERMINE KIEHNLE AND MARIA HADECKE
DAS NEUE KIEHNLE-KOCHBUCH
125
ROOTS AND TUBERS
Fried Salsify
This recipe is adapted from the 1865 edition of Eliza Acton's
classic cookbook.
To serve 4
1 Y2 lb. salsify, washed %kg.
salt
1 tbsp. butter 15 mi.
2 tbsp. white vinegar or fresh lemon juice 30 mi.
oil for deep frying
batter for dee-p frying (recipe, page 167)
Gently scrape the dark outside skin off the salsify roots and
throw them into cold water as they are done, to prevent them
from turning black. Cut the salsify into lengths of 3 to 4
inches [8 to 10 em.] and, when all are ready, put them to cook
in plenty ofboiling water with a little salt and the butter and
vinegar or lemon juice. If the roots are thick, they may take
45 minutes to 1 hour; try them with a fork after about 30
minutes and when they are perfectly tender, drain them.
Dry them by lightly in a soft cloth.
Heat the oil for deep frying. Throw the bits of salsify into
the batter. Take them out separately and fry them to a light
brown, then drain them well. Place them in a dish , sprinkle a
little salt over them ser ve them quickly.
1 Y2 lb.
3 to
4 quarts
1 tbsp.
1 tbsp.
ELIZA ACTON
MODERN COOKERY
Deep-fried Marinated Salsify
Salsifis en Marinade
To serve 4
salsify, cut info 2- to 3-inch [5- to
8-cm.] pieces
cold water, mixed with Y2 cup [125 mi.]
white wine vinegar
butter
salt and peppercorns
fresh lemon juice or white wine
vinegar
batter for deep frying (recipe, page 167)
oil for deep frying
Vinegar marinade
white wine vinegar
salt and pepper
%kg.
3 to
4 liters
15 mi.
15 mi.
50 mi.
Peel the salsify and, to stop discolor ing, immediately plunge
them into the water-vinegar bath. Drain the salsify, place in
126
an enameled or stainless-steel saucepan, cover with water
and add the butter, seasoning and lemon juice or vinegar.
Simmer for 1 hour, then drain.
Sprinkle the marinade over the salsify and leave to mari-
nate for 2 to 3 hours. Meanwhile, make the batter.
Heat the oil. Dip the salsify in the batter and fry in the oil
until golden brown. Drain well and serve immediately.
21b.
4 tbsp.
1 cup
1 cup
Y2 lb.
5
2 tbsp.
OFFRAY AINE
LE CUISINIER MERIDIONAL
Turnips in Cider
Navets au Cidre
To serve 6
young turnips
butter
veal, duck or goose stock
hard cider
egg yolk
salt
Pork and bacon stuffing
lean pork, finely chopped
slices bacon, finely chopped
shallot, finely chopped
chopped, mixed fresh tarragon,
parsley and thyme, and a crumbled
bay leaf
pepper
mixed spices
egg
1 kg.
60 mi.
% liter
Y4 li ter
5
30 mi.
Peel t he turnips; hollow out the pulp with an apple corer if
they are t he long type, or use a potato bailer or knife if they
are the round type. Blanch the hollow turnips and the pulp
in boiling water for a few minutes. Drain thoroughly.
Prepare the stuffing by mixing together the pork, bacon,
shallot and herbs. Season it with pepper and a pinch of mixed
spices, and bind the mixture with the egg.
Firmly pack the stuffing mixture into the hollow t urnips.
Brown t hem in the butter in a fireproof casserole or heavy
saucepan. Add the stock and cider, cover , and simmer for
about 1 hour . Fifteen minutes before serving, puree the tur-
nip pulp and add it to the liquid in the casserole.
Arrange the turnips on a war med platter. Over high heat
reduce the cooking liquid to half its volume, then bind it with
the egg yolk, and strain the resulting sauce. Taste and add
salt if necessary. Coat the t urnips with the sauce and ser ve.
ALI-BAB
ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY
Shredded Turnip Gratin
To serve 4
6 or 7 medium-sized turnips {1 Y2 lb. (
3
/4 kg.]), 6 or 7
peeled and shredded or grated
8 tbsp. butter 120 mi.
salt
heavy cream 150 mi.
pepper
Y3 cup fresh bread crumbs 75 mi.
Give the gratings of turnip a good salting and leave them to
drain for 30 minutes. Place a large sieve over the sink and
repeatedly squeeze the turnips over it until the mass feels
dry and weight less.
Melt 4 tablespoons [60 ml.] of the butter in a skillet. Add
the turnips, season with salt and, stirring frequently, cook
over low heat for 10 minutes. Place the turnips in a buttered
dish, pour cream over them and season generously
w1th pepper. Melt the remaining butter, stir in the bread
crumbs and cook until lightly browned. Sprinkle the crumbs
over the turnips and bake in an oven, preheated to 375 F.
[190 C.], for 30 minutes or until a golden gratin has formed.
2
3 tbsp.
JUDITH OLNEY
SUMMER FOOD
Turnip Souffle
To serve 4
medium-sized turni ps, grated
butter
2 to 3 tbsp. bread crumbs, browned in butter
medium-sized onion, finely chopped
1 tbsp. flour
2 tsp. dry mustard
2 tsp. freshly grated horseradish
1 cup milk
2
45 mi.
30to45 mi.
15 mi.
10 mi.
10 ml.
Y4 liter
4 eggs, yolks separated from the whites 4
salt and pepper
extra egg white (optional)
Preheat the oven to 375 F. [190 C.]. Butter a 6-cup [1 Yz-
liter] souffle dish and sprinkle in about 1 tablespoon [15 ml.]
of the bread crumbs. Tip the dish backward and forward so
the crumbs stick to the butter, then tip out any loose crumbs.
To support the sides of the souffle as it rises in the oven
a double thickness of wax paper a little longer than
c1rcumference of the souffle dish plus about twice its depth.
Wrap the paper around the outside of the rim of the dish and
tie the paper on with cotton string (nylon disintegrates in
the oven). Butter the inside of the paper projecting above the
dish and sprinkle it with a tablespoon of the bread crumbs.
Melt 2 tablespoons [30 ml.] ofbutter in a saucepan over
the turnip. and onion, and cook them gently,
occaswnally, untll they are just beginning to brown.
Stlr m the flour, mustard and horseradish. Remove from the
heat and blend in the milk. Return the pan to the heat , bring
the mixture to a boil, stirring, and cook until it is thick.
Allow_ the mixture to cool, then put it into a mixing bowl.
Beat m the egg yolks and seasoning. Whip the egg whites
until stiff and fold them into the mixture. Quickly pile the
mixture into the souffle dish and dust the top with the re-
maining bread crumbs. Cook the souffle in the center of the
oven for 35 minutes. Remove the paper collar before serving.
GAIL DUFF
FRESH ALL THE YEAR
Turnip Custard
To serve 4
1 Y2 cups grated turnip
3 eggs, lightly beaten
3 cups milk, scalded
salt and pepper
freshly grated nutmeg
1 tsp. grated onion
1 tsp. finely chopped fresh parsley
1 tsp. finely chopped green pepper
3 tbsp. butter, melted
Y2 tsp. sugar
375 mi.
3
3
14 liter
5 ml.
5 ml.
5 mi.
45 mi.
2 mi.
Stir turnip and the milk into the eggs, t hen season to
taste w1th salt, pepper and nutmeg. Beat the custard mix-
t ure very briskly until foamy, then stir in the onion, parsley,
green pepper and, finally, the melted butter. Pour the mix-
ture into a bU:ttered 1 %-quart [1Yz-liter] baking dish, dust
the surface w1th the sugar and bake in a moderately slow
preheat ed to 325 F. [160 C.], for 40 to 45 minutes, or
untll set. Serve at once from the baking dish.
LOUIS P. DE GOUY
THE GOLD COOK BOOK
127
PODS AND SEEDS
~ o s and Seeds
Sauteed Bean Sprouts
To serve 4 to 6
1 quart mung-bean, soybean or chick-pea 1 liter
sprouts or sprouted wheat berries
3 tbsp. oil 45 mi.
1 scallion, including 2 inches [5 em.] of
the green top, finely chopped
1
Y2 inch slice fresh ginger root, finely chopped 1 em.
1 tbsp. soy sauce 15 mi.
Y3 cup sliced water chestnuts 75 mi.
Heat the oil in a wok or heavy skillet. Add the scallion and
cook for 30 seconds. Add the sprouts and cook for 1 minute.
Add the ginger, soy sauce and water chestnuts. Cover and
cook for 4 minutes. Serve hot.
JEAN HEWITT
THE NEW YORK TIMES NATURAL FOODS COOKBOOK
Broad Beans, Maltese-Style
Ful I mgiddem
If broad beans are not available, unpeeled lima beans may be
used as a substitute.
This dish should be made toward the end of the broad-
bean season, when the beans are large and coarse.
To serve 4
3Y2 lb. broad beans, shelled and skins 1 Y2 to 2 kg.
removed
2 tbsp. olive oil 30 mi.
2 large garlic cloves 2
salt and pepper
1 tbsp. pureed tomato (optional) 15 mi.
Y2 cup fine fresh bread crumbs 125 rril.
1 tbsp. chopped fresh parsley 15 mi.
Heat the oil in a skillet, add the garlic, the beans and enough
water to cover them. (See that there is sufficient water as the
beans, which should remain whole, ought not to be stirred
while cooking.) Add the salt and pepper and pureed tomato.
Cover and simmer for about 30 minutes, or until the beans
are tender. Drain the beans, discarding the garlic cloves,
then stir in the bread crumbs and parsley. Serve hot or cold.
128
ANNE AND HELEN CARUANA GALIZIA
RECIPES FROM MALTA
Puree of Broad Beans
Puree de Feues au Maigre
If broad beans are not available, unpeeled lima beans may be
used as a substitute.
Sib.
4 tbsp.
Y2 cup
To serve 4
large broad beans, shelled and
peeled
butter
milk
sprig savory
salt
Y2 tsp. sugar
2Y2 kg.
60 mi.
125 mi.
2 mi.
2 to 3 tbsp. heavy cream 30to45 mi.
2 slices bread with the crusts removed,
cut into 8 triangles and fri ed in 2 tbsp.
[30 mi.] butter
2
Melt 2 tablespoons [30 ml.] of the butter in a heavy saucepan
and saute the beans for a few minutes. Moisten with the
milk; add the savory, salt and sugar. Cover and cook over low
heat for 20 minutes. When the beans are tender, press them
through a sieve. Put the puree in a fireproof casserole and
reheat, stirring to prevent sticking. When the puree is hot,
remove the casserole from the heat and stir in the cream and
the remaining 2 tablespoons ofbutter. Serve garnished with
the fried bread.
ARISTIDE QUILLET
LA CUISINE MODERNE
Broad Beans with Savory
Les Feues Nouvelles ala Sarriette
Winter savory is a traditional herb for seasoning boiled
beans. The creators of this recipe, Dumont and Lespine, also
recommend adding a tablespoon [15 ml.] of chopped savory to
the beans before serving. If the broad beans are very young
they may not need to be skinned after shelling. If they are
mature, the outer skins should be removed (page 15); skins
can make broad beans tough and spoil their delicate flavor. If
broad beans are not available, lima beans may be used as a
substitute; lima beans do not require skinning.
4lb.
4 tbsp.
1 tbsp.
To serve 4 to 6
young broad beans, shelled and
skinned
bunch winter savory, tied together
butter, cut into small pieces
chopped winter savory
2 kg.
60 mi.
15 mi.
Cook the beans in boiling salted water with the bunch of
savory. When the beans are tender, after 2 to 10 minutes,
depending on their size, drain off t he water and remove the
savory. Toss the beans over high heat for a moment to evapo-
rate any remaining moisture. Take off the heat, add the but-
ter and mix carefully, without breaking the beans. Serve in a
warmed vegetable dish, garnished with t he chopped savory.
AUSTIN DE CROZE
LES PLATS REGIONAUX DE FRANCE
Lima Bean Puree
To serve 6
1 Y2 lb. lima beans, shelled %kg.
Y2 tsp. salt 2ml.
1 medium-sized onion, thinly sliced 1
%cup heavy cream 175 mi.
2 tbsp. butter 30 mi.
2 tbsp. grated horseradish 30 mi.
1 tsp. Worcestershire sauce 5ml.
salt and pepper
Bring 2 cups[% liter] of water to a boil. Add the salt and the
onion, and simmer over low heat for 5 minutes. Add the lima
beans and cook them for 10 minutes once the water returns
to a boil. Drain the beans and the onion.
Pour the cream into a blender. Add the drained beans
and onions, cover and puree. Do not overblend; the beans
should not be completely smoot h. Put the puree in a pot.
Add t he butter, horseradish, Worcestershire sauce, salt
and pepper. Reheat gently. If you feel that the puree is too
thick, t hin it with a little more cream.
CAROL CUTLER
THE SIX-MINUTE SOUFFLE AND OTHER CULINARY DELIGHTS
1 lb.
2
1 tbsp.
2
Y2 tbsp.
Green Beans in Egg Sauce
Haricots Verts Quercynoise
To serve 4
green beans
salt
eggs
vinegar
shallots, finely chopped
garlic clove, finely chopped
pepper
chopped fresh parsley
Y2 kg.
2
15ml.
2
7 mi.
In a saucepan, boil the beans in salted water until just
tender. Drain off the water, but reserve 1 tablespoon [15 ml. ]
of it in a bowl. Add the eggs and the vinegar to t he reserved
water, and beat together. Pour t he mixture over the beans,
add the shallots and garlic, season with salt and pepper, and
stir over very low heat unt il the beans are covered with a
thick creamy sauce. Serve with a little chopped parsley scat-
tered over the top.
ANNE-MARIE PENTON
CUSTOMS AND COOKERY IN THE PERIGORD AND QUERCY
lib.
4 tbsp.
2
2 tbsp.
%cup
Green Beans in Sour Cream
and Tomato Sauce
To serve 6
green beans, trimmed and halved
crosswise (about 3 cups[% liter])
salt
butter
large onion, halved lengthwise and
thinly sliced
medium-sized green pepper, seeded,
deribbed and chopped
large tomatoes, peeled, seeded and
chopped
finely chopped fresh basi l
sour cream
freshly ground black pepper
Y2 kg.
60 mi.
2
30 mi.
175 mi.
Drop the beans into lightly salted boiling water. Boil uncov-
ered for about 10 minutes, or until tender but still somewhat
firm to the bite. Drain and set the beans aside.
In a heavy skillet, melt the butter over moderate heat.
Add the onion and green pepper, and cook until soft but not
browned, stirring frequently. Add the tomatoes and basil,
and cook for 2 minutes, stirring often. Add the beans, mix
well, lower the heat and simmer for 2 minutes. Beat the sour
cream with salt and pepper, and stir it into the vegetables
gently but thoroughly. Taste for seasoning. Transfer to a
warmed serving bowl and serve the beans immediately.
SONIA UVEZIAN
THE BEST FOODS OF RUSSIA
129
PODS AND SEEDS
Pears, Beans and Bacon
Birnen, Bohnen und Speck
To serve 6
1 lb. green beans, tri mmed and broken into Y2 kg.
pieces
6 firm ripe pears, peeled, cored and 6
sliced
Y2 cup water 125 mi.
thin sliver lemon peel 1
1 tsp. salt 5 mi.
6 sli ces bacon 6
Y4 cup sugar 50 mi.
2 tbsp. vinegar 30 mi.
1 tsp. fresh lemon juice 5 mi.
Place the pear slices in a saucepan with the water and lemon
peel, bring to a boil , lower the heat , and si mmer uncovered
for 5 minutes. Then stir in the green beans and the salt, and
continue cooking.
Meanwhile, fry the bacon in a skillet. When the bacon is
crisp, remove it to a paper towel to drain. Pour off all but
about 2 tablespoons [30 ml.] of the fat remaining in the
skillet. Add the sugar, vinegar and lemon juice to the bacon
fat in the pan. Simmer for 3 minutes. Pour this sauce over
the pears and beans and cook until tender. Crumble the
bacon and add it to the beans just before serving.
BETIYWASON
THE ART OF GERMAN COOKING
Steamed Green Beans
Phali Dum
To serve 2 to 4
% lb. green beans Y3 kg.
small onion 1
2 tsp. chopped ginger root 10 mi.
Y2 to butter 7 to
1 tbsp. 15 mi.
Y2 tsp. salt 2 mi.
ground fennel seed
Slice the beans slantwise into
1
/2-inch [1-cm. ] slivers. Cut the
onion into pieces the same size. Bring to a boil a few table-
spoons of water mixed with the butter. Add the beans, onions
and ginger root, season with salt and a good pinch of ground
fennel seed. Mix well. Cover tightly and let the beans steam
130
for 5 to 7 minutes. The moisture should have dried off; if not,
raise the heat briefly and shake well. Serve very hot. Do not
overcook the beans-they should be al dente.
DHARAMJIT SINGH
INDIAN COOKERY
Green Beans with Anchovies
Haricots Verts
This recipe is from a book published anonymously in 1922,
but thought to be by the writer and gastronome Leo Larguier.
1 lb.
3 tbsp.
4
1 tbsp.
To serve 4
green beans, trimmed, parboiled for
5 to 6 minutes and drained
olive oil
anchovy fillets, soaked in cold water
for 10 minutes and potted dry
garlic clove, crushed
vinegar
45 mi.
4
15 mi.
Heat the oil slightly in a saute pan. Add the anchovies and
garlic and, with a fork, crush and soften them in the oil over
low heat. Then add the green beans and saute them over
fairly high heat until they are heated through, adding the
vinegar at the last moment.
6 tbsp.
6
3 cups
CLARISSE OU LA VIEILLE CUISINIERE
Green Beans with Garlic
Les Haricots Verts a l'Ail
To serve 6
green beans, trimmed and cut into
1 Y4 -inch [3-cm.] pieces
olive oil
garlic cloves, crushed with the side of
o knife blade
fresh bread crumbs
salt and pepper
2IJ kg.
90 mi.
6
%liter
Heat the olive oil in a large skillet and, when hot, throw in
the garlic cloves. When the garlic begins to turn transpar-
ent, add the green beans and stir with a wooden spoon.
Keep the oil very hot. When the beans start to turn dark
green, add the bread crumbs and stir very briskly so that
they do not burn or stick to the bottom of the pan. Turn the
mixture immediately onto a warmed platter. Add salt and
pepper to taste, and serve at once.
JACQUES MEDECIN
LA CUISINE DU COMTE DE NICE
Piquant Wax Beans
To serve 6
1 Y2 lb. yel low beans, cut into julienne
3J4 kg.
4 slices bacon 4
2 tbsp. chopped pimiento 30ml.
2 tbsp. vinegar 30 mi.
Y2 tsp. sugar 2 mi.
1 tbsp. Worcestershire sauce 15ml.
% tsp. dry mustard 1 mi.
Tabasco
Boil the wax beans and keep them warm. Dice the bacon and
saute it in a skillet until crisp. Drain the bacon on paper
towels and reserve 2 tablespoons [30 ml.] of the grease. Add
the bacon to the hot beans. Add the remaining ingredients to
the bacon fat and cook, stirring constantly, for 2 to 3 min-
utes. Pour the mixture over the beans and toss. Serve at
once. Yellow beans particularly complement baked ham.
BERYL M. MARTON
OUT OF THE GARDEN INTO THE KITCHEN
Corn on the Cob
To serve 3 or 4
6 to 8 ears of corn 6 to 8
1 tsp. sugar 5 mi.
In a large skillet with a tight-fitting lid, bring 1 inch [2Yz
em. ] of water to a boil. Shuck the corn and remove the silks,
using a small knife or stiffbrush if it is helpful. Arrange the
corn in a single layer in the boiling water and sprinkle it
lightly with the sugar. Cover, bring again to a boil, and
immediately remove from the heat. Let the corn stand cov-
ered, for 8 to 10 minutes. (Corn cooked by this method can
stand for up to 30 minutes in hot water without overcook-
ing.) Serve the corn hot, with butter , salt and pepper.
JEANNE A. VOLTZ
THE FLAVOR OF THE SOUTH
1 ? : : : : : : \ : ~
~ \
Stuffed Cornhusks
Humita en Chala
Instructions for stuffing cornhusks are given on page 68.
12
2 tbsp.
3
To serve 8 to 10
ears of corn, shucked, with the husks
washed and reserved
oil
medium- sized onion, finely chopped
medium-sized tomatoes, peeled and
chopped
salt and pepper to taste
freshly grated Muenster cheese
12
30 mi.
3
125 mi.
In a large bowl, mix together the oil, onion, tomatoes, and
salt and pepper. Scrape the corn off the cobs, and add the
kernels and the cheese to the tomato mixture.
Put two of the husks on top of each other to form a cross
and place about 4 tablespoons [60 ml.] of the corn mixture on
top. Fold the husks up into a package, and tie the packages
securely with strings torn from the husks. Braise the stuffed
husks in boiling water for about 15 minutes, or until the
packages feel firm to the touch. Serve the stuffed husks hot,
letting each diner open his own.
1 cup
2 tbsp.
Y2 tsp.
1 tbsp.
3 tbsp.
JOSEFINA VELILLA DE AQUINO
TEMBI 'U PARAGUAI COMIDA PARAGUAY A
Indonesian Fried Corn
Frikadel Djagung
To serve 4
corn kernels, cut from 1 or 2 freshly
cooked ears
small onion, f inely chopped
rib celery, finely chopped
chopped coriander leaves
salt
egg, lightly beaten
fl our
peanut oil
Y4 liter
30 mi.
2 mi.
15 mi.
45 mi.
Combine all the ingredients except the oil in a large bowl.
Mix thoroughly.
Heat the oil in a 12-inch [30-cm.] wok or in a large skillet.
Add the vegetable mixture and stir fry over high heat for
about 5 minutes, or until the vegetables are golden.
LAROUSSE TREASURY OF COUNTRY COOKING
131
PODS AND SEEDS
Corn Timbales
To serve 4
1 cup uncooked corn kernels, cut from 2 % liter
Iorge ears
4 eggs 4
1 tsp. grated onion Sml.
1 tsp. salt Sml.
T a basco sauce
1 cup heavy cream Y4 liter
Mushroom sauce
1 Y4 cups finely chopped fresh mushrooms 300 mi.
Y2 cup sour cream 125 mi.
Y2 cup beef stock 125 mi.
2 tbsp. flour 30 mi.
2 tbsp. butter 30 mi.
salt and pepper
Combine the corn with the eggs, onion, salt and Tabasco.
Whip the cream and fold it into the corn mixture. Butter
individual custard cups. Fill each cup two-thirds full and
place it on top of a rack, or on several thicknesses of paper, in
a pan of hot water. Bake the timbales in an oven, preheated
to 325 F. [160 C.], for 20 to 30 minutes or until the custard
is set. Turn out and serve with the mushroom sauce, made by
first whirling all the ingredients in a blender until the sauce
is smooth, then heating in a pan until the sauce is thick.
MARJORIE PAGE BLANCHARD
HOME GARDENER'S COOKBOOK
Green Corn Pudding
To serve 4
4 Iorge ears of corn 4
1 quart milk 1 liter
3 eggs, lightly beaten 3
1 oz. beef suet, finely chopped 50 g.
sugar
2 tbsp. butter, cut into small chunks 30 mi.
Draw a sharp knife through each row of corn kernels length-
wise, then scrape the pulp into a heavy saucepan. Add the
milk, eggs, suet, sugar to taste, and a few chunks of butter.
Cook the mixture over low heat, stirring occasionally, until
it thickens. Transfer the mixture to a buttered ovenproof
dish and bake in a 300 F. [150 C.] oven for about 2 hours.
The pudding is done when a knife inserted into the center of
the pudding comes out clean.
THE BUCKEYE COOKBOOK
132
Corn Fritters
To serve 4 to 6
2 cups cooked corn kernels, cut from 4 Iorge % liter
ears
1 Y4 cups flour 300 mi.
2 Y4 tsp. baking powder 11 mi.
1 tsp. salt Sml.
1 egg, yolk separated from whi te 1
%cup milk 175 mi.
1 Y2 tsp. corn oil 7 mi.
fat for deep frying
pancake syrup (optional)
Sift the dry ingredients together. Beat the egg yolk, milk
and corn oil together. Gradually add the flour mixture. Beat
the egg white until stiff, and fold it into the batter. Gently
stir in the corn. Drop by the spoonful into deep-frying fat
preheated to 375 F. [190 C.]. Fry until the fritters are
puffed and brown, turning once. This should take approxi-
mately 5 minutes. Drain the fritters on paper toweling and
serve at once, with pancake syrup, if desired, or sprinkled
with sugar. Corn fritters are a wonderful accompaniment for
barbecued or broiled chicken.
BERYL M. MARTON
OUT OF THE GARDEN INTO THE KITCHEN
Grated Corn Pudding
To serve 8
3 to 4 cups uncooked corn kernels, cut from 8
ears
2 Y4 cups milk
8 tbsp. butter, melted
4 eggs, beaten
1 to 2 tbsp. sugar
2 tsp. salt
Y2 tsp. white pepper
2 drops Tabosco
%to 1 liter
550 mi.
120ml.
4
15 to30 mi.
10ml.
2 mi.
2 drops
Scald the milk in a heavy saucepan. Remove it from the heat
and add the rest of the ingredients. Mix well and pour into a
butter ed 2-quart [2-liter] baking dish. Place t he baking dish
in a pan half-filled with warm water and bake in an oven,
preheat ed to 325 F. [160 C. ], for approximately 1 hour and
15 minutes. The pudding is done when a knife inserted into
the center of it comes out clean.
1 cup
1 tbsp.
3 tbsp.
Y2 tsp.
Y4 tsp.
1
Y2 cup
THE JUNIOR LEAGUE OF NEW ORLEANS
THE PLANTATION COOKBOOK
Puree of Fresh Green Peas
To serve 4 or 5
shelled peas
chapped fresh parsley
butter
salt
pepper
egg yol k
light cream
Y4 liter
15ml.
45 mi.
2 mi.
1 mi.
1
125 mi.
Cook the peas in salted water. Drain. Rub the peas through a
str ainer into a saucepan. Fry the parsley in t he butter and
combine it with the pureed peas. Add t he salt and pepper.
Bring the puree to a boil. Beat the egg yolk and cream to-
gether, and blend in before ser ving.
FLORENCE SCHWARTZ (EDITOR)
VEGETABLE COOKING OF ALL NATIONS
Peas and Cucumbers in Sour Cream
3 cups
2
1 cup
3 tbsp.
To serve 6
freshly shelled peas (about 3
lb. [1 Y2 kg.])
medium-sized cucumbers
sour cream at room temperature
finely chopped fresh di ll
sal t and pepper
3
/4 liter
2
Y4 liter
45 mi.
Cook the peas in boiling salted water until barely tender.
Drain. Peel the cucumber, quarter it and scoop out the seeds,
then dice it. Cook the diced cucumber quickly for about 2
minutes in just enough boiling water to cover . Do not over -
cook: t he cucumber should remain crisp. Dra in immediately.
J ust before serving, combine the cooked cucumber and
peas in t he top of a double boiler, then mix in t he sour cream,
dill, and salt and pepper to taste. Heat slowly over hot- not
boiling-water unt il t he vegetables are warm. Serve.
BARBARA R. FRIED
THE FOUR-SEASON COOKBOOK
Jugged Peas
An 18th Century recipe from Surrey, England.
To serve 4
2 cups freshly shelled peas Y2 li ter
1 tbsp. butter 15 mi.
1 tsp. confectioners' sugar 5 mi.
salt 1 mi.
12 fresh mint leaves 12
black pepper
Put the peas into a clean , 2-pound [1-kg.] jar with a close-
fitting t op, adding the butter , sugar , salt , mint and a very
little black pepper . Cover the j ar tightly and immer se it t o
half its height in a pan of boiling water. Set t he latter over
high heat and boil briskly, uncovered. Check the peas peri-
odically to make sure the wat er does not boil away. Examine
the peas in 30 minutes: if very young, the peas should be
done by then; if old, they will of course t ake longer.
31b.
4 tbsp.
~ u p
Y4 lb.
4
MARIE STONE
THE COVENT GARDEN COOKBOOK
Peas with Prosciutto
Piselli al Prosciutto
To serve 4
peas, shelled (about 3 cups [ % liter] )
butter
small onion, finely chopped
salt and pepper
hot chicken, beef or veal stock, or
water
sugar (optional)
thinly sliced prosciutto, cut into strips
fi rm-textured white bread slices with
the crusts removed, cut into triangles
and fried in butter (optional)
1 Y2 kg.
60 mi.
150 mi.
125 g.
4
In a saucepan , melt t he butter and saute the onion over low
heat until it begins to change color. Add t he peas, season
with salt and pepper , and moisten with the stock or water.
Cook, uncovered, over brisk heat for 10 minutes or until the
peas are tender, adding a pinch of sugar if the peas are not
young and sweet . Two minutes before the peas are ready,
add the ham and stir gently.
Served in a decorative veget able dish, the color combina-
t ion of peas and ham is very attractive. Garnish with the
triangles of fried bread, if desired, and serve very hot.
ADA BON!
ITALIAN REGIONAL COOKING
133
PODS AND SEEDS / MUSHROOMS/VEGETABLE FRUITS
Green Peas, Poitou-Style
Petits Pois a la Poitevine
To serve 4
2 cups freshly shelled green peas, preferably Y2 liter
small young peas (about 2 lb. [1 kg.])
4 tbsp. butter 60 mi.
3 medium-sized onions, finely sliced 3
2 tbsp. chopped fresh parsley 30 mi.
1 sprig thyme 1
1 sprig savory
1 tsp. chopped fresh hyssop 5 mi.
1 or 2 tsp. sugar 5 or 10 mi.
1 lettuce heart, shredded 1
salt and pepper
Melt the butter in a heavy saucepan and put in the peas, the
onions, and the parsley, thyme, savory and hyssop. Saute for
several minutes, then add the sugar and the lettuce. Pour in
enough boiling water to cover the peas, season with salt and
pepper and simmer gently, covered, for 30 minutes or until
the peas are tender.
JEAN MERCIER AND IRENE LABARRE
LA CUISINE DE POITOU ET DE LA VENDEE
Family-Style Peas
Petits Pois ala demi Bourgeoise
To serve 4
4 lb. young peas, shel led (about 4 cups [1
liter] after shelling)
4 tbsp.
5 or 6
1 tsp.
2
1 cup
butter
parsley sprigs, tied together with 1
scallion
head lettuce, trimmed and quartered
sugar
sal t
egg yol ks, lightly beaten
heavy cream
2 kg.
60 mi.
5 or 6
5 mi.
2
Y4 li ter
Put the peas in a saucepan with the butter, parsley and
scallion, and the lettuce. Cook, cover ed, over very low heat
for about 40 minutes until there is almost no liquid left in the
pan; then add the sugar and salt to taste. Mix the egg yolks
with the cream and stir into the peas, still over low heat.
Simmer for a few minutes, then serve.
MENON
LA CUISINIERE BOURGEOISE
134
Snow Peas with Mushrooms
To serve 4
1 lb. snow peas
1 lb. mushrooms
2 tbsp. peanut or soy oil 30 mi.
1 to 3 tsp. Japanese soy sauce 5 to 15 mi.
Soak the snow peas briefly in cold water; trim the ends from
the pods. Drain the pods and refrigerate them until ready to
use. Cut the mushroom caps and stems into thin slices. Heat
the oil in a wok or large shallow skillet and, over high heat,
stir fry the mushrooms for 2 minutes. Add the whole pea
pods and stir fry for a minute or so more. The snow peas must
be very crisp-textured when served-scarcely cooked at all,
just heated through. Add the soy sauce, mix t hrough, and
serve at once. Marvelous!
2 1b.
ALEX D. HAWKES
COOKING WITH VEGETABLES
~ u s r o o m s
Mushrooms in Butter with
Anchovies, Mint and Lemon Juice
Funghi alla Casalinga
To serve 4 to 6
small mushrooms 1 kg.
8 tbsp. butter 120 mi.
1 tbsp. olive oil 15ml.
salt and coarsely ground pepper
4 anchovy fillets, soaked in water for 10 4
minutes, patted dry and chopped
2 sprigs mint, chopped 2
3 to 4 tbsp. fresh lemon juice 45to60ml.
2 tbsp. chopped fresh parsley 30 mi.
Heat the butter and oil in a deep skillet and fry the mush-
rooms over high heat, tossing them constantly. After about 5
minutes, add the salt and pepper, anchovies and mint. Mix
together and then add the lemon juice. Fry for a moment
longer. Sprinkle with parsley and serve.
JANET ROSS AND MICHAEL WATERFIELD
LEAVES FROM OUR TUSCAN KITCHEN
Mushrooms Polonaise
To serve 6
1 Y2 lb. mushrooms, sliced
3,4 kg.
1 onion, chopped 1
12 tbsp. butter 180 mi.
2 tbsp. flour 30 mi.
1 cup sour cream Y4 liter
1 cup heavy cream Y4 liter
Y2 tsp. grated nutmeg 2 mi.
salt and pepper
Y4 cup chopped fresh parsley 50 mi.
Y4 cup fresh white bread crumbs 50 mi.
Place the sliced mushrooms and chopped onion in a heavy
skillet without any fat. Cover the skillet and allow the vege-
tables to steam in their own juices over medium heat for
about 15 to 20 minutes, until t hey almost stick to the pan.
Add 8 tablespoons [120 ml.] of butter. When the butter has
melted, stir in the flour. Cook, stirring, for 5 minutes over
very low heat. Blend in the sour cream and the heavy cream.
Season with nutmeg, salt and pepper. Continue to cook, un-
covered, until the mixture thickens. Stir in the parsley.
Pour the mixture into a buttered, shallow casserole. Sau-
te the bread crumbs in t he remaining butter until lightly
colored and sprinkle them on top. Bake in a moderate oven,
preheated to 350 F. [180 C.], until the mixture has set and
the bread crumbs have browned a litt le more.
21b.
PAULA PECK
PAULA PECK'S ART OF GOOD COOKING
Baked Mushrooms and Pine Nuts
Funghi Arrosto con Pignoli
To serve 4 to 6
extra-large mushrooms, stems removed 1 kg.
lemon, halved
2 tbsp. olive oil 30 mi.
2 garlic cloves, very finely chopped 2
pi ne nuts 50 to
75 mi.
freshly ground sea salt and black pepper
Rub the outside skins of the mushroom caps with the lemon.
Place the mushroom caps, insides facing upward, in an oiled,
shallow baking pan. Sprinkle with the garlic and pine nuts
and season with sea salt and pepper to taste. Bake in an
oven, preheated to 400 F. [200 C.], for 10 minutes. Remove
the pan and place it under a hot broiler for 2 minutes. Serve.
ANNA MUFFOLETTO
THE ART OF SICILIAN COOKING
Baked Mushrooms
Champignons au Four
To serve 3 or 4
1 lb. small mushrooms Y2 kg.
y4 lb. sal t pork wi th the rind removed, diced,
blanched in boiling water for 5
minutes and drained
125 g.
2 tbsp. butter 30 mi.
2 tbsp. chopped fresh parsley 30 mi.
6 to 8 whole scallions, including 2 inches [5
em.] of the green tops
6 to 8
salt and pepper
grated nutmeg
6 to 8 spri gs parsley, main stems removed 6 to 8
2 to 3 tbsp. oil 30to45ml.
Mix the mushrooms, salt pork, butter, chopped parsley, scal-
lions and seasonings together, and put the mixture into an
ovenproof earthenware dish. Cook uncovered in a moderate
oven, preheated to 350 F. [180 C.], for 30 to 40 minutes, or
until the salt pork and scallions are lightly browned. Just
before serving, fry the parsley sprigs in the oil and use t hem
to garnish the dish.
BUC'HOZ
MANUEL ALIMENTAIRE DES PLANTES
~ g e t b l e 'Fruits
Fried Cucumbers
To serve 4 or 5
2 6- to 7 -inch l 15- to 18-cm.] cucumbers 2
2 eggs, beaten 2
salt and pepper
1 cup bread crumbs Y4 liter
fat for frying
Peel and slice the cucumbers into rounds ':4 inch [6 mm.]
thick, and let the slices soak in salted water for 20 minutes.
Drain the cucumber s and squeeze them dry; dip each cucum-
ber slice into the beaten egg seasoned with salt and pepper,
then into the bread crumbs. In a large skillet, heat the fat,
and fry the coated slices in it until they are golden. Serve
them immediately on a warmed platter.
MRS. W. H. WILSON AND MISS MOLLIE HUGGINS
GOOD THINGS TO EAT
135
VEGETABLE FRUITS
2
4 tbsp.
1 cup
3
1 tsp.
Creamed Cucumbers
Concombres a la Paulette
To serve 4
large cucumbers ( 12 inches [30 em.]
long, or 4 or 5 medium-sized), peeled,
quartered lengthwise, and seeded
salt
butter
pepper
light cream
egg yolks, lightl y beaten
wine vinegar
2
60 mi.
Y4 liter
3
5ml.
Cut the cucumber quarters into finger-length pieces. Blanch
them in lightly salted boiling water for 2 or 3 minutes.
Drain. In a saucepan, melt the butter, add the cucumber
pieces and saute them over medium heat for 5 minutes. Sea-
son with salt and pepper. Stir in the cream and simmer un-
covered to allow it to r educe slightly. Just before serving,
mix t he egg yolks with t he vinegar. Stir in a spoonful of the
hot sauce, and then add the yolk mixture to the cucumbers.
Reheat without boiling to t hicken the sauce slightly.
J ULES BRETEUlL
LE CUISINIER EUROPEEN
Stewed Cucumbers with Sour Cream
and Dill
Schmorgurken mit Saurem Rahm und Dill
To serve 6
6
2 tsp.
2 tbsp.
Y2 cup
2 tbsp.
2 cups
2 tbsp.
1 tbsp.
1 tbsp.
medium-sized cucumbers (about 3
lb. [1 Y2 kg.] ), peeled, halved
lengthwise, seeded and cut into l-inch
[2 Y2 -em.] pieces
6
salt 10 mi.
butter 30 mi.
fi nely chopped onions 125 mi.
flour 30 mi.
milk Y2 liter
sour cream 30 mi.
finely chopped fresh parsley 15 mi.
finely chopped fresh dill (or substitute 15 mi.
1 tsp. [5 mi.] dri ed dill weed)
pepper
Place the cucumbers in a large bowl and sprinkle them with
salt, tossing them with a spoon to spread the salt evenly. Let
136
the cucumbers stand at room temperature for 30 minutes,
then drain off the liquid and pat them dry with paper t owels.
In a heavy 10- to 12-inch [25- to 30-cm.] skillet, melt the
butter over moderate heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring
frequently, for 8 to 10 minutes, or unt il it colors slightly. Add
the flour and cook, stirring constantly, until t he flour turns
golden brown. Watch for any sign of burning and regulate
the heat accordingly. Pour in the milk and, stirring con-
stantly, bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer
for 1 or 2 minutes, unt il the mixt ure thickens slightly. Add
the cucumbers and simmer, uncovered, for 15 minutes.
When the cucumbers are tender but still slightly firm, add
the sour cream, parsley and dill. Taste for seasoning. Serve
in a warmed bowl.
2
2 tbsp.
4
Y2 cup
10 oz.
3 tbsp.
3 tbsp.
FOODS OF THE WORLD/I'HE COOKI NG OF GERMANY
Stuffed Cucumbers
Gefiillte Gurken
To serve 2
medium-sized cucumbers, peeled,
halved lengthwise and seeded
butter
slices bacon
dry white wine (optional )
Beef and bread-crumb stuffing
ground beef
fresh bread crumbs, soaked in a
little milk
egg
medium-sized onion, chopped
chopped fresh parsley
salt and whi te pepper
2
30ml.
4
125 mi.
350 g.
45 mi.
45 mi.
Make the stuffing by mixing together the ground beef, bread
crumbs, egg, onion, parsley and seasoning. Fill each of the
cucumber halves with this mixture, t hen put t he halves to-
gether again and tie them with cotton thread so they resem-
ble whole cucumbers.
Butter a baking dish and put the cucumber s into it. Cov-
er each cucumber with two slices of bacon. Cook in a moder -
ate oven, preheated to 350 F. [180 C.], for 30 minutes or
until the cucumbers are tender and translucent. Serve the
stuffed cucumbers with a potato puree.
GRETE WJLLINSKY
KOCHBUCH DER BOCHERGILDE
Eggplant Puree
Kahrmus
To serve 4
2 to 2% lb. eggplant, peeled, sliced l inch [2Y2
em.] thick and cut into l -inch cubes
(about 3 cups [
3
/4 liter])
olive oil
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
Y2 tsp. salt
Y2 tsp. black pepper
l tsp. Hungarian paprika
l kg.
50 mi.
2
2 mi.
2 mi.
5 mi.
Steam t he eggplant cubes in a colander over boiling water
for 30 minutes. Heat the oil in a wide saucepan and add the
eggplant along with the remaining ingredients. Stir con-
stantly over medium heat for 10 minutes, or until the egg-
plant becomes a puree. Serve hot, immediat ely.
Y2 to
%cup
IRENE DAY
THE MOROCCAN COOKBOOK
Fried Eggplant
Melanzane Fritte
To serve 2
medium-sized eggplant, peeled
and cut crosswise into Y2 -
inch [1-cm.] slices
flour
egg, lightly beaten
olive oil 125 to
175 mi.
Dredge the eggplant slices wit h flour and dip them in t he
beaten egg. Heat the oil in a large skillet and fry the egg-
plant slices slowly over medium heat until t hey are golden
brown (about 5 to 6 minutes each side).
BERYL GOULD-MARKS
THE HOME BOOK OF ITALIAN COOKERY
Eggplant Fans
Aubergi nes en Euentail
The technique for assembling eggplant fans is demonstrated
on pages 80-81. The method for paring artichoke hearts is
demonstrated on page 25.
To serve 6
3 medium-sized eggplants (about l to
l Y4 lb. [ Y2 to 2IJ kg.] each), ends trimmed
3
2 large, firm tomatoes (about l lb. [ Y2 2
kg. ] ), halved lengthwise, cored and
thinly sliced
Y3 to olive oil 75 to
Y2 cup 125 mi.
large onion, fi nely chopped 1
4 garlic cloves, thi nly sliced 4
4 tender artichokes 4
Y2 cup small pitted black olives, rinsed 125 mi.
2 bay leaves, crumbled 2
1 tsp. mixed dri ed thyme, oregano and Sml.
savory
salt and pepper
fresh parsley or basil leaves (optional )
Split the eggplants lengthwise. Place the halves, split side
down, on a chopping board, and cut each halflengthwise int o
1
h-inch [1-cm.] t hicknesses, leaving the slices attached at
the stem end to for m fans. Slip tomato slices into the slit s of
the eggplant halves. Oil a large gratin dish with 2 table-
spoons [30 ml.] of the olive oil , and scatter half t he onion and
garlic over t he bottom. Arrange the eggplant halves, gently
forced together, side by side in the dish.
Pour the remaining olive oil into a bowl. Pare the ar ti-
chokes to t he hearts and quarter them, removing t he chokes;
place t he hearts immediat ely in the oil, t urning them
around t o coat them completely and protect them from con-
t act with air. Force t he quartered artichoke hearts and the
olives into the crevices around t he eggplant fans. Fit in t he
bay leaf fragments here and t here, scatter t he remaining
onion and garlic over t he surface, and sprinkle wit h the
herbs, salt and pepper. Press everything into place to form as
regular a surface as possible. Dribble the oil left over from
the ar t ichokes over t he entire surface, adding a bit mor e if
necessary. Place a sheet of aluminum foil loosely over t he
surface and bake for about 1
1
h hours, st art ing with a very
hot oven, pr eheated to 450 F. [230 C. ], and turning the heat
down to about 350 F. [180 C.] aft er 10 minutes or so.
When done, t he stem ends of the eggplants should be soft
to t he touch. Serve as an hors d'oeuvre, either tepid or cold
(but not chilled), sprinkled, if you like, wit h chopped parsley
or fresh basil leaves torn into small fragments.
RICHARD OLNEY
SIMPLE FRENCH FOOD
137
VEGETABLE FRUITS
138
Roasted Eggplant
Aubergines en Gigot
This is a recipe from the Catalan Coast of France.
4
4
12
To serve 4
small eggplants (about 10 oz. [Y4 to lj3
kg.] each)
slices bacon, cut into small pieces
garlic cloves
salt and pepper
marjoram or basi l
olive oi l
4
4
12
50 mi.
In each whole, unpeeled eggplant, make two lengthwise
rows of small incisions about lf2 inch [1 em.] apart; into these
put, alternately, small pieces ofbacon and garlic cloves that
have been rolled in salt, pepper and herbs-either marjo-
ram or basil. Put the eggplants in an earthenware casserole
with a little oil poured over them. Cover the casserole and
roast the eggplants in an oven, preheated to 300 F. [150 C. ],
for about 1 hour.
These should be served as a separate course. They are
also very good cold, split open, salted, and with a little fresh
oil poured over .
ELIZABETH DAVID
FRENCH COUNTRY COOKING
Eggplant and Tomato Gratin
Bohemienne
The ratatouille i ~ o i s e has become internationally famous
but, in the rest of Provence, the Bohemi enne- using equal
quantities of eggplants and tomatoes-is preferred.
To serve 6 to 8
3 large eggplants (about 31b. [1 Y2 kg.]), 3
peeled and cut into smal l pieces
9 medium-sized tomatoes (about 3 lb. 9
[1 Y2 kg.] ), peeled, seeded and cut into
small pieces
Y2 cup olive oil 125 mi.
1 garlic clove, crushed 1
2 anchovy fillets 2
1 tbsp. flour 15ml.
Y2 cup milk 125 mi.
salt and pepper
Y4 cup fresh bread crumbs 50 mi.
Heat 4 t ablespoons [60 ml.] of the oil in a large saute pan,
add the eggplant, tomatoes and garlic, and cook, uncovered,
over medium heat until the mixture has softened and can be
crushed with a fork.
Meanwhile, soften the anchovy fi llet s in 3 tablespoons
[ 45 ml. ] of the oil , in a small saucepan standing in boiling
water or set over very low heat. When the fillets have melted
in t he oil , add them to the vegetables. Blend the flour with
t he milk and stir into the vegetables. Season with salt and
pepper, bearing in mind that the anchovies are quite salty.
Mix everything together well and turn into an oiled gratin
dish. Sprinkle on the bread crumbs and the r emaining oil.
Bake in an oven, preheated to 375 F. [190 C. ], for 20 to 30
minutes, until a crust has formed on top.
LOUIS GINIES
LA CUISINE PROVEN<;ALE
Eggplant Gratin
To prepare the aromatic pepper and allspice mixture called
for in this recipe, combine about 3 parts of freshly ground
black pepper with 2 parts of freshly ground white pepper and
1 part of finely pulverized allspice berries. Store the mixture
in a tightly closed jar.
about
1 cup
3
To serve 4
medium-sized eggplant (about 1 Y2 lb.
[
3
/.! kg.]), peeled and cut lengthwise
into Y2 -inch [ 1-cm.] sl ices
olive oil
medium-sized onion, fi nely chopped
garlic clove, finely chopped
medi um-sized tomatoes (about 1 lb.
[Y2 kg.]), peeled, seeded and
coarsely chopped
sugar
cayenne pepper
salt
brousse or ricotta cheese
egg
freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Y2 cup heavy cream
freshly ground mixed pepper and
al lspice
about
Y4 liter
3
125 mi.
75 mi.
125 mi.
2 to 3 tbsp. torn- up basil leaves 30 to 45 mi.
In a large skillet, fry t he eggplant slices in olive oil over
medium heat until they are golden on both sides and the
stem ends, which take longer to cook than the remainder of
the eggplant, offer no resistance to the point of a knife. The
frying will have to be done in several batches, with more oil
being added as needed. As each slice is ready, remove it and
put it to drain on paper towels.
In a small skillet, cook the chopped onion and garlic in 1
tablespoon [15 ml.] of olive oil over medium heat until they
have softened and become golden. Add the tomatoes; season
with a pinch of sugar, cayenne pepper to taste, and salt. Toss
briefly over high heat, then lower the heat and simmer, un-
covered, for 15 to 20 minutes, or until nearly all of the tomato
liquid has disappeared.
Meanwhile, put the brousse or ricotta into a bowl with
the egg and blend with a fork until smooth. Mix in enough
grated Parmesan to form a stiff paste, then gradually add
heavy cream until the mixture has a thick pouring consis-
tency. Taste for salt.
Arrange half the eggplant slices in the bottom of a gratin
dish, salt lightly, and add a few pinches of the mixed pepper
and allspice. Spread the sauteed tomato mixture over t he
eggplant slices, sprinkle with the basil and season with the
pepper mixture. Make another layer with the remaining
eggplant slices, season lightly with salt and the pepper mix-
ture, and pour on the cheese-and-cream mixture. Sprinkle
the remaining Parmesan over the top and bake in a very hot
oven, preheated to 450 F. [230 C.], for 10 minutes, then
reduce the heat to 375 F. [190 C.] and bake for a further 20
minutes, or until the surface has swelled to a golden-brown
dome that is firm to the touch at the center.
NATHAN D'AULNAY
PETITS PROPOS CULINAIRES
Breaded Eggplant Sandwiches
Fette di Melanzane Ripiene
The mortadella called for in this recipe is a mild-flavored
sausage, similar to bologna, obtainable wherever Italian
foods are sold.
To serve 4 to 6
large eggplant (about 2 lb. [1 kg.]),
unpeeled but cut crosswise into Y2-
inch [1-cm.] slices
salt
1 Y2 cups dry bread crumbs 375 mi.
Y3 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese 75 mi.
Y3 cup chopped fresh parsley 75 mi.
Y2 lb. mortadella, thinly sliced y4 kg.
Y2 lb. provolone cheese, thinly sliced y4 kg.
2 eggs, slightly beaten 2
Y4 cup olive oil 50 mi.
Place the eggplant slices in a bowl, salting each layer of
slices liberally. Weight them down with a heavy plate and
leave them for 1 hour to draw out their excess moisture.
Rinse off the salt and dry the slices with paper towels. Set
aside. Preheat the oven to 350 F. [180 C.].
Combine the bread crumbs, Parmesan cheese, '4 tea-
spoon [1 ml. ] of salt and the parsley. Set aside.
Sandwich one or two slices of mortadella and one slice of
provolone between each pair of eggplant slices. Dip these
eggplant sandwiches into the beaten eggs, then into the
bread-crumb mixture.
Pour the olive oil into a large, shallow baking pan; heat it
in t he oven for 5 minutes. Place the eggplant sandwiches in
the pan and bake for 15 minutes on each side. Serve hot or at
room temperature.
ANNA MUFFOLETTO
THE ART OF SICILIAN COOKING
Eggplant with Yogurt Stuffing
Aubergines Farcies
To serve 2
2 large eggplants
2
4 tbsp. chopped scallions, including 2 inches
[5 em.] of the green tops
60 mi.
Y2 cup sliced fresh mushrooms 125 mi.
Y4 cup grated carrots 50 mi.
5 tbsp. butter
75 mi.
3 tbsp. flour
45 mi.
1 cup unflavored yogurt Y4 liter
salt and pepper
3
/4 cup bread crumbs, fried in 3 tbsp. [45 mi. ] 175 mi.
butter
Cut off a thick, lengthwise slice from each eggplant. Cook
the eggplant in boiling salted water for about 15 minutes, or
until tender. Remove the eggplant pulp, leaving the shells
about % inch [6 mm.] thick. Chop the pulp and set it aside;
reserve the shells.
Saute the scallions, mushrooms and carrots in the butter
for 4 to 5 minutes. Blend in the flour and the yogurt, stirring
continuously until the mixture boils. Add the eggplant pulp
and season the mixture with salt and pepper. Do not boil
again. Fill the eggplant shells with the mixture, and top
them with the bread crumbs. Put the shells in an oiled bak-
ing dish and bake them, uncovered, for 25 minutes in a mod-
erate oven, preheated to 350 F. [180 C.]. Serve very hot.
IRFAN ORGA
COOKING WITH YOGURT
139
VEGETABLE FRUITS
Okra Pudding, Barbados-Style
12
Coo-coo
To serve 6
small young okra, trimmed a nd cut
crosswise into Y4 -inch [6- mm. ] slices
1 Y2 quarts water
salt
2 cups yellow corn meal
3 tbsp. unsalted butter
12
1 Y2 liters
Y2 li ter
45 mi.
Bring the water to a boil in a saucepan. Add the salt and
okra. Cook, covered, for 10 minutes. Then add the cornmeal
to the wat er and okra, pouring it in a slow, steady stream
and stirring constantly with a wooden spoon. Cook, still stir-
ring constantly, over medium heat for about 5 to 8 minutes,
or until t he mixture is very thick and smooth.
To mold the mixture, pour it into a buttered 11fz-quart
[1 %-liter ] heatproof bowl. Pat the mixture down into the
bowl , let it stand a minute or two, then turn it onto a warmed
serving platter and spread the butter on top of it. Alterna-
tively, the mixture may be turned directly onto a warmed
plat ter without molding. Ser ve hot.
ELISABETH LAMBERT ORTIZ
THE COMPLETE BOOK OF CARIBBEAN COOKI NG
Italian Peppers and Onions
To serve 4
8 Italian peppers, seeded, deribbed, 8
and cut lengthwise into thin strips
3 tbsp. olive oil 45 mi.
1 medium-sized onion, thi nly sliced 1
garl ic clove, crushed
Y2 tsp. salt 2 mi.
pepper
Heat the oil in a large, heavy skillet over moderate heat. Add
the peppers, onion and garlic, and stir fry for 8 minutes until
the onion is golden. Cover, turn the heat to low and simmer
for 5 minutes, shaking the pan occasionally. Uncover the
skillet and cook the mixture, stirring for 1 to 2 minutes to
drive off excess moisture. Add the salt and a pinch of pepper,
and serve. This is especially good with veal or chicken.
140
JEAN ANDERSON AND ELAINE HANNA
THE DOUBLEDAY COOKBOOK
6
2
Ya tsp.
6
1 tsp.
1 tsp.
1 tbsp.
1 tbs p.
3
Ya tsp.
Ya tsp.
1 tbsp.
Jarvis Stuffed Peppers
To serve 6
green peppers
medium-sized tomatoes
sa lt and pepper
hot cooked rice
calf's sweetbread, parboiled for 5
mi nutes, trimmed and finely diced
pa prika
bread crumbs, mixed with 2 tbsp. [30
mi. ] softened butter
slices firm white bread, cut into ci rcl es
the diameter of the peppers and
sauteed in butter
littleton sauce
fl our
prepared mustard
butter, melted
vinegar
boiling water
egg yolks, beaten
sa lt
peppe r
cayenne pepper
red currant jelly
6
2
125 mi.
50 mi.
6
5ml.
5 mi.
15 mi.
15 mi.
125 mi.
3
1 mi.
h mi.
15 mi.
Cut a slice from the stem end of each pepper, then remove the
seeds and parboil the peppers for 3 minutes in boiling water;
remove and drain.
Bring the tomatoes to the boiling point and let them sim-
mer for 20 minutes. Rub them through a sieve and continue
simmering until you have about % cup [125 ml.] of puree.
Season with salt and pepper, and add the rice. Allow the
mixture to stand until the rice has absorbed the tomato; then
add the sweetbread. Season with the paprika.
Fill the peppers with the mixture, arrange them in a
casserole with 2 to 3 tablespoons [30 to 45 ml. ] of water in the
bottom. Sprinkle the tops with the bread crumbs and bake in
an oven, preheated to 350 F. [180 C. ], for 30 to 40 minutes,
or until the crumbs are brown.
Meanwhile, make the Littleton sauce. Mix the flour and
mustard and, when thoroughly blended, add the melted but-
ter, vinegar, boiling water and eggs. Cook in a double boiler,
stirring constantly until the mixture thickens. Add the sea-
sonings. Just before serving, add the red currant jelly. To
serve, arrange the peppers on the sauteed bread circles and
pour the sauce over them.
FANNIE MERRITT FARMER
THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL COOKBOOK, 1924 EDITION
6 or 7
Y2 cup
2
2 or 3
6
4
Stewed Peppers with Tomatoes
Peperonata
To serve 4 to 6
red, yellow or green peppers (about 2
lb. [1 kg.] ), seeded, deribbed and cut
into small pieces
oil
medium-sized onions, diced
garlic cloves, thinly sliced
small bay leaves
salt and freshly ground pepper
medium-sized tomatoes (about 1
lb. [Y2 kg.]), peeled, seeded and
cut into strips
6 or 7
125 mi.
2
2 or 3
6
4
Pour the oil into a skillet, add the onions, garlic and bay
leaves. Saute over moderate heat until the onions are gold-
en, stirring constantly. Add the peppers, then season with
salt and pepper. Cook over brisk heat for about 10 minutes,
stirring frequently. Add the tomatoes to the skillet and cook
for another 15 minutes.
LUIGI CARNACINA AND LUIGI VERONELLI
LA BUONA VERA CUCINA ITALIANA
Fried Green Tomatoes with
Cornmeal
For best results, use only stone-ground cornmeal for this
recipe. Its texture is floury, so t hat the meal will adher e
more firmly to the tomatoes than will a more granular corn-
meal. Firm, ripe tomatoes may also be fried t he same way.
Soft, ripe tomatoes will be reduced to mush.
4
~ u p
1 Y2 tsp.
To serve 4 to 6
medium-sized green tomatoes
yellow or white stone-ground
cornmeal
sal t
Y2 tsp. pepper
3 to 4 tbsp. rendered bacon fat
4
150 mi.
7 ml.
2 mi.
45to60ml.
Do not peel or cor e the tomatoes. Slice each about lh inch [1
em.] thick, then pat the cut surfaces dry with paper toweling.
In a pie plate, combine the cor nmeal, salt and pepper.
Dredge the tomato slices in t he seasoned cornmeal, making
sure each slice is well coated.
In a large heavy skillet over moderately high heat, fry
the tomatoes quickly in the sizzling-hot bacon fat. You need
only brown the slices on each side -1 to 11h minutes to a side
should do it. Serve straight away.
JEAN ANDERSON
THE GRASS ROOTS COOKBOOK
Fried Green Tom a toes with Bacon
2
4
2 or 3
To serve 2
medium-to-large green (or half-ripe)
tomatoes
thick slices lean bacon
egg, beaten with 1 tsp. [5 mi.] water
flour
salt and pepper
light cream
scallions, finely chopped
2
4
50 mi.
2 or3
Slowly fry the bacon in a heavy skillet until lightly crisped.
Drain the bacon on paper towels and keep it warm. Reserve
t he fat in the skillet. Slice t he tomatoes vert ically, from bot-
tom to blossom end (this keeps the seeds in), about 1,4 inch [6
mm.] t hick. Discard t he two outer slices. Dip t he slices first
in egg, t hen in flour. Fry over medium heat in t he bacon fat ,
and season with salt and pepper . Turn t he slices once so that
both sides are golden brown and crisp.
Put the slices on a hot platter, pour off any remaining fat
from t he skillet, deglaze the pan with the cream and pour the
sauce over the tomatoes. Scat ter the scallions on top and put
the bacon around t he tomatoes.
MIRIAM UNGERER
GOOD CHEAP FOOD
Sauteed Cherry Tomatoes
Here is a quick vegetable garnish t hat looks beautiful on
a meat platter.
To serve 6 to 8
1 quart cherry tomatoes, stems removed 1 liter
4 tbsp. butter 60 mi.
Y2 tsp. sugar
2 mi.
Y2 tsp. salt
2ml.
Y4 tsp. freshly cracked black pepper 1 mi.
2 tbsp. chopped fresh parsley 30ml.
Heat t he butter in a large saute pan. When the butter is
foaming, add the tomatoes. Toss t hem over high heat, shak-
ing the pan back and forth for about 3 minutes and sprin-
kling t he tomatoes with t he sugar (this gives them a shiny
glaze). Do not overcook, or t he skins will split and t he toma-
toes will be too soft. Season with salt and pepper , and gar-
nish with chopped parsley.
JULIE DANNENBAUM
JULIE DANNENBAUM'S CREATIVE COOKING SCHOOL
141
VEGETABLE FRUITS I SQUASHES
142
Fried Tomatoes
Tomates Frites
Use only the firmest ripe tomatoes-or underripe ones.
8
To serve 6 to 8
medium-sized, very firm tomatoes
(about 2 lb. [1 kg.])
salt and pepper
batter for deep frying (recipe, page 167)
oil for deep frying
8
Immerse the tomatoes in boiling water for a second, then
peel them. Cut them in slices about lf2 inch [1 em. ] thick and
remove the seeds. Season the slices with salt and pepper; dip
each slice, one after another, into the batter and plunge it
into very hot oil until golden, about 2 to 3 minutes. Drain on
paper towels. Arrange on a warmed platter and serve.
AUGUSTE ESCOFFIER
MA CUISINE
Stuffed Tomatoes, Calabria-Style
Pomodori Ripieni alla Calabrese
8
4
2
Y3 cup
8
2 tbsp.
2 tbsp.
To serve 4
firm tomatoes
salt
thin slices stale French or Italian bread
garlic cloves, crushed
olive oil
anchovy fi llets, soaked in cold water
for 10 minutes, patted dry and
finely chopped
pine nuts
yellow raisins, sqal<ed in warm water
for 10 to 15 minutes and drained
chopped fresh parsley
freshly ground black pepper
8
4
2
75 mi.
8
50 mi.
30 mi.
30 mi.
Preheat the oven to 375 F. [190 C.]. Cut a slice off the top of
each tomato, scoop out and discard the pulp and seeds. Re-
serve the top slices. Sprinkle the interior of the shells with
salt and set them upside down to drain. Rub the bread slices
with garlic and cut them into 1:4-inch [6-mm. ] cubes. Brown
the cubes lightly in the oil and drain them on paper towels.
In a bowl, mix the anchovies with the bread cubes, nuts,
raisins and parsley. Season the mixture with pepper and
very little salt. Stuff the tomatoes with the mixture, cover
them with their tops, arrange in an oiled, shallow baking
dish and bake in the oven for 20 to 25 minutes. Serve hot.
PAULA WOLFERT
MEDITERRANEAN COOKING
Tomatoes Baked with Garlic
Tomates a la
To serve 4
8 tomatoes 8
1 Y2 cups fresh bread crumbs 375 mi.
6 tbsp. chopped f resh parsley 90 mi.
4 garlic cloves, roughly chopped 4
salt and pepper
Y3 cup olive oil 75 mi.
Remove the hard cores from the tomatoes with the tip of a
knife and cut the top off each tomato. Scoop out the seeds and
juice, and arrange the tomatoes in a shallow baking dish.
Mix the bread crumbs with the parsley, garlic and sea-
sonings, then stuff the tomatoes loosely with this mixture.
Sprinkle with the olive oil, then cook in an oven, preheat-
ed to 400 F. [200 C.], for 15 to 20 minutes, or until the tops
are golden brown.
3 or 4
2
1 tbsp.
Y2 tsp.
1 Y2 cups
Y2 tsp.
3 tbsp.
H. HEYRAUD
LA CUISINE A NICE
Scalloped Tomatoes
Brown Tom
To serve 4
medium-sized tomatoes (about
1 lb. [Y2 kg.]), peeled and sliced
slices lean bacon, preferably
Canadian bacon
large onion, chopped
chopped fresh parsley
dried basi l (or substitute 2 tsp. [1 0 mi. ]
chopped fresh basi l)
fresh whole-grain bread crumbs
sal t and freshly ground pepper
sugar (optional)
butter
3 or 4
2
15 mi.
2 mi.
375 mi.
2 mi.
45 mi.
Mince together the bacon and onion, and mix with the pars-
ley, basil and bread crumbs. Put a layer of this mixture into a
lightly buttered, shallow ovenproof dish, and add a layer of
the tomatoes. Season with the salt, pepper , and the sugar, if
you like. Layer again, fini shing with crumbs, and dot the top
layer with the remaining butter. Bake in an oven, preheated
to 400 F. [200 C.], for about 30 minutes, or until well
browned and bubbling.
MARGARET COSTA
MARGARET COSTA' S FOUR SEASONS COOKERY BOOK
Baked Tom a toes with Soubise
Soubise is a puree of onion and rice, normally used as an
accompaniment to meat .
To serve 6 to 8
6 to 8 medium-sized tomatoes, sliced Y2 6 to 8
inch [1 em.] thick
1 tsp. salt
5 mi.
Y2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper 2 mi.
Y4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese 50 mi.
Soubise filling
4 tbsp. butter 60 mi.
4 cups chopped onions 1 liter
6 tbsp. raw unprocessed rice 90 mi.
2IJ cup chicken stock 150 mi.
Y4 cup heavy cream 50 mi.
2 egg yolks
2
1 tbsp. fresh lemon juice 15 ml.
1 tsp. sal t 5 mi.
Y2 tsp. pepper 2 mi.
First make the soubise filling. Melt the butt er in a heavy
ovenproof saucepan. St ir in the onions and rice, and cook for
a minute over high heat , stirring to coat them well with the
butter . Add t he chicken stock and bring the mixture to a boil.
Cover the pan tightly and set it in a moderately slow oven
preheat ed to 325 F. [160 C.]. Look at the mixture in 20
minutes; if it is dry, add a little hot chicken stock. Continue
cooking for about 20 minutes longer , or until the onions and
rice are tender. Puree the mixture through a food mill and
stir in the cream, egg yolks and lemon juice. Add more cream
if necessary; the sauce should fall lazily from a spoon. Season
with salt and pepper to taste.
Sprinkle the tomato slices with salt and pepper , and lay
them on an oiled baking sheet . Put 1 tablespoon [15 ml. ] of
the soubise filling on each tomato slice and top with about a
teaspoon [5 ml.] of Parmesan cheese. (The r ecipe may be
prepar ed ahead to this point .) Bake in an oven, preheat ed to
350 F. [180 C.], for about 15 to 20 minutes, or at 425 F.
[220 C.] for about 10 minutes, until the tops ar e bubbly.
JULIE DANNENBAUM
MENUS FOR ALL OCCASIONS
Tomatoes Stuffed with Potato Puree
To serve 6
3 medium-sized tomatoes 3
1 tbsp. finely chopped fresh parsley 15ml.
Potato puree
6 medium-sized potatoes (about 2 1b. [ 1 kg.]) 6
1 tbsp. unsalted butter 15 mi.
1 cup milk, heated to lukewarm Y4 liter
salt and pepper
To prepare the puree, first boil the potatoes in salted water
until tender. Drain. Force the potatoes through a sieve or
food mill. Beat in the butter and gradually add the hot milk.
Whip the potatoes until light, then season with the salt and
pepper. (I find a wire whisk produces the best results.)
Preheat the oven to 350 F. [180 C.]. Halve the tomatoes
crosswise and, with a spoon, scoop out the centers, being
careful not to break the skins. Discard the pulp.
Using a pastry bag fitted with a large star tube, fill the
tomato halves with puree, mounding the puree. Bake the
tomatoes for approximately 20 minutes, or until the halves
are t ender and the puree is browned. Sprinkle the tomatoes
with the parsley before serving.
MAURICE MOORE-BETTY
COOKING FOR OCCASIONS
Squashes
Squash Puff
To serve 6
3 cups pureed cooked acorn squash % liter
Y2 cup molasses 125 ml.
3 tbsp. whole-wheat flour 45 mi.
1 tsp. salt 5 ml.
Y4 tsp. grated nutmeg 1 mi.
Y4 tsp. ground ginger 1 mi.
3 eggs, yolks separated from whites 3
Y4 cup finely chopped pecans or walnuts 50 mi.
Preheat the oven to 350 F. [180 C. ]. In a large bowl, blend
together the squash, molasses, flour, salt, nutmeg, ginger
and egg yolks. Beat the egg whites until stiff, but not dry.
Fold the whites into the squash mixture. Turn the mixture
into an oiled 1 'h-quart [1 'h-liter] baking dish. Sprinkle the
nuts around the outside edge, and bake the mixt ure for 1
hour, or until golden and crusty.
JEAN HEWITT
THE NEW YORK TIMES NATURAL FOODS COOKBOOK
143
SQUASHES
144
Baked Butternut Squash
To serve 4
large butternut squash (about 1
lb. [h kg.] )
salt
freshly ground pepper
2 tsp. anise seed, crushed
Ys tsp. ground cardamom
2 to 3 tbsp. light or dark brown sugar
8 tbsp. butter, melted
2 tbsp. fresh lemon juice
10 mi.
Y2 mi.
30to45ml.
120 ml.
30 ml.
Peel and cut open the squash. Remove and discard the seeds
and the fibers. Cut the squash into l -inch [2 Vz-cm.] cubes.
Turn the squash into a buttered 2-quart [2-liter] baking
dish. Sprinkle with the salt and pepper, anise seed, carda-
mom and brown sugar. Drizzle the butter and lemon juice
over the top. Bake the squash, uncovered, in a preheated
350 F. [180 C.] oven for about 30 minutes, or until tender.
NIKA HAZELTON
THE UNABRIDGED VEGETABLE COOKBOOK
Chayotes with Cheese and Onion Stuffing
Christophene au Gratin
This r ecipe comes from the French West Indian island of
Martinique, where boiled chayote is also popular in salads.
To serve 6
3 chayotes (about % lb. [Y3 kg.] each) 3
5 tbsp. unsalted butter 75 mi.
1 large onion, finely chopped 1
salt and freshly ground pepper
1 Y4 cups freshly grated Parmesan cheese Y3 liter
Boil the whole chayotes in salted water for about 30 minutes,
or until tender. Remove them from the saucepan and, when
they are cool enough to handle, cut them into halves length-
wise. Scoop out the pulp, including the edible seeds, mash
the pulp and set it aside. Reserve the shells.
Heat 3 tablespoons [ 45 ml. ] of the butter in a skillet and
saute the onions until they are tender but not browned. Add
the mashed chayote pulp, salt and pepper to taste, and cook,
stirring, for a few minutes to dry out the mixture a little. Off
the heat, add 1 cup [ liter] of the cheese, stirring to mix
well. Stuff the shells with the mixture, dot with the remain-
ing butter and sprinkle with the extra cheese. Place the
chayotes on a baking sheet and bake in an oven, preheated to
350 F. [180 C.], for 15 minutes, or until the tops are lightly
browned. Serve as a luncheon or supper dish.
ELISABETH LAMBERT ORTIZ
THE COMPLETE BOOK OF CARIBBEAN COOKING
Stuffed Crookneck Squash
To serve 6
6 medium-sized crooknecks
6
2 tbsp. butter 30 mi.
Y2 cup chopped onion 125 mi.
1 Y2 cups soft bread crumbs 375 mi.
Y4 cup chopped fresh parsley 50 mi.
Y4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese 50 mi.
salt and freshly ground pepper
6 tbsp. butter 90ml.
Parboil the squash for 5 minutes in salted water. Drain and
cool. Melt the butter in a skillet. Saute the onion over medi-
um heat for 5 to 6 minutes. Meanwhile, cut a lengthwise
slice off each squash, removing the top third, and chop the
slices finely. Add the chopped slices to the onion. Scoop out
the seeds from the squash and discard. Scoop out the flesh,
leaving shells inch [6 mm. ] thick. Chop this scooped-out
flesh, add it to the onion mixture and cook for 5 to 6 minutes.
Add the bread crumbs, parsley, Parmesan cheese, salt and
pepper to the onion and squash mixture. Toss well. Pile the
mixture into the squash shells, dot with the butter, and bake
in a preheated 375 F. [190 C.] oven for about 20 minutes.
BERYL M. MARTON
OUT OF THE GARDEN INTO THE KITCHEN
Scalloped Pattypan
To serve 4
4 medium-sized pattypan squash 4
4 tbsp. butter 60 mi.
Y4 cup flour 50 mi.
2 cups milk Y2 liter
1 tsp. salt 5ml.
To basco
Y2 tsp. dry mustard 2 mi.
Y2 cup freshly grated Gruyere cheese mixed 125 mi.
with Y2 cup bread crumbs
Parboil the squash in boiling salted water until just tender.
Drain the squash and cut them into crosswise slices. Melt
the butter in a saucepan. Stir in the flour and cook until the
roux is golden and bubbly. Pour in the milk and cook until
the sauce is thick and smooth. Season it with the salt, Tabas-
co and mustard. Layer the squash slices and sauce in a but-
tered baking dish. Sprinkle the top with the cheese and
crumbs. Reheat the squash in an oven, preheated to 350 F.
[180 C.], for 10 minutes and run under a broiler to brown.
MARJORIE PAGE BLANCHARD
THE HOME GARDENER'S COOKBOOK
Stuffed Pattypan Squash
To serve 6
6 pattypan squash 6
6 slices lean bacon 6
Y2 cup finely chopped onions 125 mi.
Y2 tsp. salt 2 mi.
Y2 tsp. freshly ground pepper 2 mi.
Y2 tsp. basi l 2 mi.
1 tbsp. finely chopped fresh parsley 15ml.
butter
Y2 cup sauterne 125 mi.
Cut off the tops of the squash and carefully scoop out the
centers, leaving a firm shell. Discard the pith and seeds or, if
desired, roast the seeds for snacking later on. Coarsely chop
the squash flesh. In a skillet, fry the bacon until crisp, then
drain and crumble it. Pour off all but about 2 tablespoons [30
ml. ] of bacon fat from the skillet, and saute the onion until
soft, stirring often. Add the squash flesh and cook for about 3
minutes, stirring often. Mix in the crumbled bacon, salt,
pepper, basil and parsley. Spoon this stuffing into the squash
shells, top them rather liberally with butter and arrange
them in a shallow greased baking pan. Pour the wine over
the stuffed squash, cover the pan with foil and bake in a
preheated 350 F. [180 C.] oven until the squash is tender,
usually about 30 minutes. Remove the foil for the last 5
minutes or so t o allow the topping to brown.
ALEX D. HAWKES
COOKING WITH VEGETABLES
Pumpkin or Squash Gratin
Le Gratin de Courge
To serve 4
2 to 2 Y2 lb. pumpkin or other winter squash,
halved, seeded, peeled, and cut into
Y2-inch [ 1-cm. ] cubes
flour
olive oil
7 or 8 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 tbsp. finely chopped fresh parsley
sal t and pepper
1 kg.
50 mi.
75 mi.
7 or 8
30 mi.
Toss the cubes of pumpkin or squash in the flour until they
are evenly coated. Generously oil the bottom and sides of an
ovenproof earthenware casserole. Fill it with the pumpkin
or squash, and scatter t he garlic and parsley over it. Season
with salt and pepper , and spr inkle the remaining oil over the
sur face. Cook in an oven, preheated to 325 F. [160 C.], for 2
to 2Vz hours or until the top has formed a rich dark crust. (It
is not necessary to add any water during cooking, because
the squash produces enough liquid of its own.)
21b.
2
Y2 cup
4 tbsp.
Y3 cup
l cup
l tsp.
RENEJOUVEAU
LA CUISINE PROVEN GALE
Pumpkin and Apples
To serve 6
pumpkin, peeled, seeded and cut into
l-i nch [2 Y2 -em.] squares
medium-sized tart apples, cored,
peeled and chopped
sugar
water
butter
salt
blanched almonds or hazelnuts,
toasted in a 300F. [ 150C.] oven for
20 minutes (turning occasionally) and
chopped
Cinnamon yogurt sauce
unflavored yogurt
sugar (opti onal)
ground cinnamon
l kg.
2
75 mi.
125 mi.
60 mi.
75 mi.
Y4 liter
5ml.
To make the sauce, combine the yogurt and the sugar, if you
are using it, in a small bowl. Blend t horoughly. Sprinkle
with the cinnamon. Cover and set aside.
Combine the pumpkin and apples in a heavy saucepan.
Sprinkle with the sugar, and pour in the water. Dot with the
butter, season wit h a pinch of salt and bring to a boil over
high heat. Reduce the heat, cover, and cook gently for about
20 minutes or until the pumpkin is tender, stirring several
times and adding more water if needed. Transfer the mix-
ture to a warmed serving dish. Sprinkle with the nuts and
serve at once with the cinnamon yogurt sauce.
This is a great accompaniment t o roast turkey.
SONIA UVEZIAN
THE BOOK OF YOGURT
145
SQUASHES
Baked Pumpkin and Tomatoes
Gratin de Potiron et Tomates
To serve 4
2 to 2 Y2 lb. pumpkin, peeled and cut into pieces
Y2 inch [1 em.] wide and 3 inches [7 Y2
em.] long
YJ cup olive oil
3 medium-sized tomatoes (about 1 lb.
[Y2 kg.]), sliced crosswise
2 garlic cloves, crushed
2 tbsp. chopped fresh parsley
salt and pepper
Y4 cup dry bread crumbs
1 tbsp. butter
1 kg.
75 mi.
3
2
30ml.
50 mi.
15ml.
Blanch the pumpkin pieces for 5 minutes in boiling salted
water, then drain and dry them with a cloth. Heat 3 table-
spoons [45 mi.] ofthe oil in a large skillet, add the pumpkin
and fry over low heat until the pieces begin to look transpar-
ent. Transfer them to a shallow ovenproof dish.
Add the rest of the oil to the skillet, together with the
sliced tomatoes, the garlic and 1 tablespoon [15 ml.] of the
parsley. Season with salt and pepper. Fry this mixture until
the tomatoes begin to form a puree and some of the moisture
has evaporated.
Spread the tomatoes on top of the pumpkin. Mix the rest
of the parsley with the bread crumbs and sprinkle over t he
tomatoes. Dot with the butter and bake for 20 minutes in an
oven preheated to 400 F. [200 C.].
ANNE-MARIE PENTON
CUSTOMS AND COOKERY IN THE PERIGORD AND QUERCY
Zucchini with Walnuts
To serve 4
6 to 8 small zucchini (about 1 lb. [Y2 kg.]) 6 to 8
4 tbsp. butter 60 mi.
Y2 cup walnuts, coarsely chopped 125 mi.
1 tbsp. butter 15 mi.
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Remove the ends and cut the zucchini into slices 1 inch [2lh
em.] thick. Heat 3 tablespoons [ 45 mi. ] of the butter in a
skillet and saute the zucchini until it just begins to soften.
Meanwhile, brown the walnuts in the remaining butter.
Combine the walnuts with the zucchini; season with salt and
pepper, and cook until the zucchini is tender.
146
MARIAN BURROS
PURE AND SIMPLE
1 Y2 lb.
3 tbsp.
2
1 tbsp.
Sauteed Summer Squash
To serve 4 to 6
summer squash (do not peel if tender),
thinly sl iced
olive oil
garlic cloves
salt
freshly ground pepper
cider vinegar
finely chopped fresh basil or parsley
% kg.
45 mi.
2
15 mi.
50 mi.
Heat the olive oil in a deep skillet. Cook the garlic cloves
until t hey begin to t urn golden. Discard the garlic. Add the
squash and season it with salt and pepper. Cook the squash
over medium heat, stirring with a fork, for 3 to 5 minutes, or
until it is tender but still crisp. Stir in the vinegar and the
basil , and cook 30 seconds longer.
NIKA HAZELTON
THE UNABRIDGED VEGETABLE COOKBOOK
Zucchini with Cream
Calabacitas con Crema
Chili serranos are tapered, bright green, smooth peppers, 1 to
2 inches long. They are available in cans and can be found in
markets that sell Latin American foods.
In Mexico, there are hundreds of ways to cook squash,
and every cook has a personal method and concept of season-
ing. This dish has an exotic flavor and can be prepared well
in advance. It is perhaps even better heated up the next day.
To serve 6
1 Y2 lb. zucchini, diced %kg.
2 medium-sized tomatoes (about % lb. 2
(Y3 kg.]), peel ed, seeded and
chopped
6 peppercorns
6
4 sprigs coriander 4
2 sprigs mint 2
Y2 inch stick cinnamon 1 em.
4 whole cloves 4
2 whole chili serranos 2
Y2 cup light cream 125 mi.
salt
Put all the ingredients into a saucepan. Cover the pan with a
tightly fitting lid and cook over low heat for about 30 min-
utes. From time to time stir the mixture and scrape the
bottom of the pan to prevent sticking. If the vegetables are
drying up too much, add a little water. When cooked, the
zucchini should be very soft, the cream completely absorbed
and no liquid should remain in the pan. The chilies should
remain whole and just flavor the zucchini; the dish should
not be spicily hot.
6
3
5
Y2 cup
1 cup
1 Y2 cups
4 tbsp.
10
DIANA KENNEDY
THE CUISINES OF MEXICO
Baked Zucchini
Firinda Kabak
To serve 6 to 8
small zucchini
eggs
scallions, white and green
parts, chopped
chopped fresh dill
chopped fresh mint
chopped fresh parsley
freshly grated Gruyere cheese
grated feta or ricotta cheese
flour
salt and pepper
cayenne pepper
butter
pitted black olives (optional)
6
3
5
125 mi.
125 mi.
125 mi.
% liter
125 mi.
375 mi.
60 mi.
10
Preheat the oven to 350 F. [180 C.]. Grate the :mcchini
coarsely into a large bowl. Add the eggs, scallions, dill, mint,
parsley and both cheeses. Mix well. Add the flour, a :'ittle at a
time, mixing continually. Season to taste with salt ,_ pepper
and cayenne pepper.
Grease a 9-inch [23-cm. ] square baking dish with 2 table-
spoons [30 ml.] of the butter. Pour in the zucchini mixture,
spreading it evenly. Decorate with the olives, if you are us-
ing them. Dot the top with the rest of the butter.
Bake in the oven for 45 to 55 minutes, or until well
browned. Cut into squares, and serve hot or cold.
NESETEREN
THE ART OF TURKISH COOKING
Zucchini Stewed in Butter
Zucchini al Burro
To serve 4
2 to 2Y2 lb. small zucchini, trimmed but not peeled
water
8 tbsp. butter
salt and ground pepper
2 tbsp. chopped fresh parsley
2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
1 kg.
50 mi.
120 mi.
30 mi.
10ml.
Put the zucchini in a heavy saucepan with the water, butter,
salt and pepper. Cover with a lid and place on low heat.
Shake the pan frequently until the zucchini are very nearly
soft ( al dente). Serve in a hot dish, sprinkled with the parsley
and lemon juice.
6 to 7
3 tbsp.
3
1 cup
J ANET ROSS AND MICHAEL WATERFIELD
LEAVES FROM OUR TUSCAN KITCHEN
Zucchini Mold
To serve 4
small zucchi ni (about 1 lb. [ Y2 kg.] ),
thinly sliced
carrot, fi nely chopped
onion, finely chopped
finely chopped fresh parsley
butter
sal t and pepper
f reshly grated Parmesan cheese
eggs, lightly beaten
bechamel sauce (recipe, page 165)
6 to 7
50 mi.
45 mi.
75 mi.
3
Y4 li ter
In a skillet, cook the carrot, onion and parsley in the butter
until the onion has browned. Add the zucchini and season-
ing, then cook gently for 10 to 15 minutes until the zucchini
are tender. Remove the pan from the heat and add the
cheese, eggs and bechamel sauce.
Put the mixture into a buttered ovenproof mold and cover
the mold with a sheet of wax paper. Place the mold in a large
baking pan, pour in enough hot water to reach halfway up
the sides of the mold, and cook in a 300 F. [150 C.] oven for
45 minutes. Serve hot.
THE COOK TO A FLORENTINE FAMILY
NOT ONLY SPAGHETTI!
147
SQUASHES I STALKS
5 or6
4 tbsp.
3
2 tbsp.
3 tbsp.
3
14 cup
1 cup
Ys tsp.
Zucchini Pudding Souffle
Pudding Souffle aux Courgettes
Toserve4
small zucchini (about 1 lb. [Y2 kg.]),
coarsely shredded, sal ted for 30
minutes, rinsed well and squeezed
almost dry
butter
eggs, yolks separated from whites
freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Thick white sauce
butter
fl our
mi lk
salt and pepper
Tomato and cream sauce
5 or 6
60 mi.
3
125 mi.
30 mi.
45 mi.
175 mi.
pureed tomato (or substitute 1 Y2 cups 125 mi.
[375 mi.] drained canned tomatoes)
heavy cream Y4 li ter
sal t and pepper
cayenne pepper
Heat 2 tablespoons [30 ml.] of the butter in a saute pan and
saute the zucchini over medium heat for 7 to 8 minutes,
tossing often and spreading the mass out again with a wood-
en spoon, until well dried and lightly colored.
To prepare the thick white sauce, melt the butter in a
saucepan, stir in t he flour and cook, stirring over low heatfor
2 to 5 minutes. Whisk in t he milk, raise the heat, and whisk
until the sauce comes to a boil. Remove the sauce from the
heat as soon as it is stiff. Allow it to cool for a couple of
minutes before adding the egg yolks, one at a time, stirring
well after each addition. Add salt and pepper to taste and stir
in the zucchini . In a bowl, beat the egg whites until they
st and in peaks, incorporate about one third of the whites into
the zucchini mixture, turning and folding gently with your
hands or a spatula to render the mixture more supple. Then
carefully fold in the remaining beaten whites. (If you have
beaten the egg whites in a large bowl, you may find it easier
to add the white sauce mixture to the egg whites. Gently
pour the mixture around the sides of the bowl and fold it into
the whites with your hands.)
Pour the mixture into a generously buttered, quart [1-
liter] ring mold (filling it no more than two-thirds to three-
quarters full), smooth the surface with the back of a spoon
148
and tap the mold lightly against the tabletop to settle the
contents. Stand the mold in a bain-marie; that is, place the
mold in a large pan, installing it at the entry to the oven, and
then pour in enough hot but not boiling water to come two
thirds of the way up the sides of the mold. Bake in a moderate
oven, preheated to 350 F. [180 C.], for 20 to 25 minutes, or
until the surface of the souffle is firm and springy.
Remove the mold from the bain-marie and leave to cool
for 10 minutes or so before unmolding the pudding souffle
onto a large, round, shallow baking dish (a ceramic quiche
dish, for instance-something ovenproof and presentable
for serving). Turn up the oven to 450 F. [230 C.].
Whisk together the pureed tomato and the cream, season
to taste, and pour the sauce slowly and evenly over the un-
molded souffle, masking it entirely (but permitting only as
much as is necessary to coat the inner sides of the souffle to
run down into the well). Sprinkle the cheese over the surface
and return the souffle to the oven for 20 minutes, or until the
surface is richly colored and the sauce bubbling. Serve on
heated plates, spooning the sauce to the side of the souffle so
as not to mask the gratin.
21b.
8 tbsp.
3 tbsp.
1 tbsp.
RICHARD OLNEY
SIMPLE FRENCH FOOD
Stalks
Minute Asparagus
To serve 4
asparagus, peeled
sal t
butter
soy sauce
fresh lemon juice
freshly ground pepper
1 kg.
120 mi.
45 mi.
15 mi.
Cut the asparagus into very thin diagonal slices, not more
than 14 inch [6 mm.] thick-thinner if possible. Place the
slices in a colander or cooking basket. Pour enough water
into a saucepan to cover the colander or cooking basket, add
the salt and bring the water to a boil. Heat the butter in a
large skillet and have the soy sauce, lemon juice and pepper
at hand. When the water boils, dip the asparagus in, bring to
a second boil and cook for just 1 full minute. Remove, drain,
and toss the asparagus into the skillet with the butter. Add
the other ingredients and toss well over medium heat until
t he butter has browned and the asparagus is crisp and deli-
ciously flavored.
JAMES BEARD
JAMES BEARD'S AMERICAN COOKERY
Asparagus Pie
Tourte d'Asperges
To serve 4
2 to 2 Y2 lb. asparagus, peeled and tough ends
removed
2 tbsp.
2 or 3
short-crust or rough puff pastry
(recipe, page 167, but double the
quantities call ed for)
butter, melted
fines herbes
scallions, white parts only, finely
chopped
salt and pepper
grated nutmeg
heavy cream or creme fralche
egg yolk
1 kg.
30 mi.
2 or 3
125 mi.
Blanch and drain the asparagus. Line an 8-inch [20-cm.]
piepan with pastry dough, reserving some dough for the lid.
Arrange the asparagus on the pastry. Sprinkle with the but-
ter, fines herbes, scallions, salt, pepper and nutmeg. Cover
with the reserved pastry, dampen the edges of the dough and
press them together. Crimp the edges and make a l-inch
[2 'h-em. ] hole in the center of the lid. Bake in an oven, pre-
heated to 400 F. [200 C.], for 30 to 35 minutes. Mix the
cream with the egg yolk and pour this mixture through a
funnel into the pie. Return the pie to the oven for 5 minutes.
lib.
8 tbsp.
Y4 to
Y3 cup
L'ESCOLE PARFAITE DES OFFICIERS DE BOUCHE
Asparagus Gratin
Les Asperges au Gratin
To serve 2
asparagus, trimmed, peeled, and tied
together in a bundle
salt
butter, melted
grated Gruyere cheese
120 mi.
50 to
75 mi.
-----------------------------------------
pepper
Cook the asparagus, uncovered, in boiling salted water for
about 10 minutes, or until tender. Drain the asparagus on a
kitchen towel and remove the tie.
Just before serving, dip each asparagus tip in the melted
butter. Place the asparagus in layers in a buttered gratin
dish, and sprinkle the grated cheese over the tips of each
layer. Season with a little pepper and brown the asparagus
under a preheated broiler.
LA MERE BESSON
MA CUISINE PROVEN GALE
Fried Asparagus
To serve 4 to 6
2 to 2Y2 lb. asparagus, peeled 1 kg.
batter for deep frying (recipe, page 167)
oil for deep fryi ng
salt
Blanch the asparagus in boiling salted water for 2 to 3 min-
utes. Drain and dry the stalks. Dip the stalks, one by one,
into the batter and deep fry in hot oil at 375 F. [190 C.] until
the batter is golden and crisp. When done, drain, sprinkle
the asparagus with salt and serve hot.
THE BUCKEYE COOKBOOK
Gratin of Asparagus
For instructions on how to cook asparagus, see page 39.
1 to 21b.
4 tbsp.
2 tbsp.
1 cup
2
4 to 6
1 tbsp.
To serve 4 to 6
asparagus Y2 to 1 kg.
butter 60 mi.
flour 30 mi.
milk, heated Y4 liter
heavy cream 50 mi.
slices cooked ham, chopped (optional) 2
salt and pepper
grated nutmeg
eggs, hard-boiled and sliced
freshly grated cheese, preferably
Gruyere
fresh bread crumbs
4 to 6
50 mi.
15 mi.
Cook and drain the asparagus in the usual way, reserving 1
cup [1,4 liter] of the water. In a heavy pan, melt half the
butter, stir in the flour and leave to bubble for a moment or
two. Add the milk and reserved asparagus water gradually
to make a smooth sauce. Simmer for 15 minutes or more,
until the sauce is thick. Add the cream, and the ham if you
are usi.ng it. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg to taste.
Arrange the asparagus in an oval gratin dish, with the
sliced hard-boiled eggs on top. Pour the sauce over the as-
paragus, leaving a clear 1,4 inch [6 mm.] at the top of the dish
so that the sauce does not boil over and make a mess. Mix the
cheese and bread crumbs, and scatter them on top of the
sauce. Melt the remaining butter and dribble it evenly over
the top. Put into an oven, preheated to 425 F. [220 C.], for
about 20 minutes until the dish is bubbling and brown. (This
browning can also be done under the broiler.)
JANE GRIGSON
GOODTffiNGS
149
STALKS
Natural Asparagus
If the asparagus is young and tender, it need not be peeled.
To serve 4
1 to 1 Y2 lb. asparagus, trimmed and peeled Y2 to% kg.
salt and pepper
3 tbsp. butter, cut into small bits 45 mi.
Preheat the oven to 300 F. [150 C.].
Place the asparagus in one or two layers in a buttered,
shallow baking dish just large enough to hold them. Season
with salt and pepper to taste, then dot with butter bits. Cover
the dish tightly and bake in the oven for 30 minutes. The
asparagus will be crunchy and will not lose their color.
THE JUNIOR LEAGUE OF WINSTONSALEM, NORTH CAROLINA
WINSTONSALEM'S HERITAGE OF HOSPITALITY
Baked Celery with Herb Sauce
2
2 tsp.
5 tbsp.
Y2 cup
1 Y2 cups
2 tbsp.
2 tbsp.
3
/.! cup
To serve 6
bunches celery, root ends and leafy
tops removed, cut into 2 Y2 -
inch [6-cm.] lengths
salt
butter
fresh bread crumbs
Herb sauce
dry white wine
chopped fresh parsley
chopped fresh basil
chicken stock
salt and pepper
2
10 mi.
75 mi.
125 mi.
375 mi.
30 mi.
30 mi.
175 mi.
Preheat the oven to 400 F. [200 C.].
To make the herb sauce, first combine the wine, chopped
parsley and basil in a small enameled or stainless-steel
saucepan and simmer, uncover ed, for about 20 minutes. Add
the stock, and salt and pepper to taste. Simmer t his herb
sauce for another 3 minutes.
Meanwhile bring a large quantity of salted water to a
boil. Add the celery pieces and cook for about 15 minutes
until they are almost tender. Drain at once.
Grease a baking dish with 1 tablespoon [15 ml. ] of the
butter and place t he celery pieces in the dish. Pour the sauce
over the celery. Cover the top completely with the bread
crumbs and dot with the remaining butter. Bake in the oven
for about 30 minutes or until the top is nicely browned. Serve
directly from the dish.
CAROL CUTLER
THE SIXMINUTE SOUFFLE AND OTHER CULINARY DELIGHTS
150
6
2 tbsp.
2 oz.
1 cup
Braised Celery Stalks
Lu Api Broustoulit
To serve 6
medium-sized bunches celery, trimmed
to within 6 inches [ 15 em.] of the bases
olive oil
salt pork with the rind removed,
blanched in boiling water for 5
minutes, drained and diced
carrot, thinly sliced
onion, thinly sliced
garlic clove, thinly sliced
bay leaf
beef or veal stock
salt and pepper
6
30 mi.
75 g.
Y4 liter
Blanch the celery in boiling water for 5 minutes. Put the
olive oil into a fireproof earthenware pot and add t he salt
pork, carrot, onion, garlic and piece of bay leaf. When the
onion has colored, moisten with t he stock, season with salt
and pepper, and add t he celery.
Cover the pot and cook in an oven, preheated to 325 F.
[160 C.], for 40 minutes.
Take the celery out of the pot, cut each bunch lengthwise
into halves or quarters, depending on how thick it is. Ar-
range the celery on a dish and pour over the cooking juices.
JACQUES MEDECIN
LA CUISINE DU COMTE DE NICE
Stewed Celery, Michigan-Style
2
3 tbsp.
6
1 Y2 cups
To serve 6
large bunches celery
salt
butter
scallions, tri mmed a:1d mast of the
green parts removed
small garlic clove, chapped
chicken or beef stock
pepper
2
45 mi.
6
375 mi.
Separate the celery ribs, then remove the tops. Wash the ribs
thoroughly and cut them into 3-inch [8-cm.] lengths. Throw
the celery into boiling salted water and cook, uncovered, for
3 minutes. Drain. Bring the stock to a boil. Melt the butter in
a saucepan, and add the scallions, garlic and celery. Pour in
the stock and cook, covered, over low heat until t he vegeta-
bles are quite tender (about 30 minutes), adding more stock,
if necessary. When done, the stock should have cooked away
entirely. Season to taste before serving.
SHEILA HIBBEN
AMERICAN REGIONAL COOKERY
Braised Celery with Yogurt
To serve 3
small bunch celery (about % lb. [Y3
kg. ]), separated into ribs and cut into
small pieces
2 sprigs parsley 2
1 tsp. chopped marjoram 5ml.
1 onion, thinly sliced
1
Y2 cup beef stack 125 mi.
Y4 cup unflavored yogurt 50 mi.
salt and pepper
Y2 cup fresh bread crumbs, mixed with 4
tbsp. [60 mi.] melted butter
125 mi.
Put t he celery, herbs and onion into a well-buttered baking
dish. Combine the stock and yogurt, beat well and pour over
the vegetables. Season, and sprinkle the top with the bread
crumbs. Bake in an oven, preheated to 350 F. [180 C.], for
30 to 35 minutes, or unt il the celery pieces are tender but not
soft. Serve hot.
!RFAN ORGA
COOKING WITH YOGURT
Celery Amandine
A distinctive yet subtle combination of flavors, this dish is
excellent with roast poultry or fried fi sh.
To serve 4
2 medium-sized bunches celery (about 2
1 Y4 lb. trimmed
4 tbsp. butter 60 mi.
Y2 cup slivered, blanched almonds 125 mi.
2 shallots, finely chopped 2
sal t and freshly ground black pepper
Y2 cup light cream 125 mi.
Take apart the bunches of celery and cut the ribs into l-inch
[2lh-cm.] pieces, splitting them lengthwise into two or three
sections if they are very thick.
Heat the butter in a heavy saucepan with a tight-fitting
lid. Add the almonds and saute them until they are crisp and
a rich golden color, taking care not to let them burn. Lift out
the almonds with a slotted spoon and set them aside.
Add the celery and shallots to the pan, mix well with the
hot butter, and season generously with salt and pepper. Cov-
er the pan tightly and cook over low heat for 15 minutes,
stirring frequently.
Stir in the cream. Replace the lid and continue to cook
gently for 20 minutes more, or until the celery is tender and
the cream is reduced slightly.
Mix in the sauteed almonds. Correct the seasoning and
cook gently over low heat for 5 minutes before serving, to
allow the flavors to blend.
lib.
4 tbsp.
2
1 cup
1 cup
3
GEORGE SEDDON AND HELENA RADECKA
YOUR KITCHEN GARDEN
Celery-Leaf Casserole
Feuilles de Celeris a la Menagere
To serve 4
small celery ribs with leaves (about 3
cups[% liter])
salt
butter
pepper
anchovy fi llets, soaked in cold water
for 10 minutes, patted dry and very
finely chopped
fresh bread crumbs
beef, veal or chicken stack, salted
water or mil k
egg yolks, lightly beaten
freshly grated Parmesan cheese
(optional)
60 mi.
2
Y4 liter
Y4 liter
3
50 mi.
Bring a large pan of salted water to a boil and parboil the
celery leaves and ribs for 5 minutes. Drain, squeeze dry, then
chop the celery. Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the cel-
ery, season lightly with salt and pepper , and stir in the an-
chovy. Cover and simmer for several minutes over low heat.
Meanwhile, add the bread crumbs to the stock, water or
milk and bring to a boil. Drain the crumbs, reserving the
liquid. Stir the bread crumbs into the celery mixture, and
add enough of the cooking liquid to make a creamy sauce.
Simmer a few minutes more to blend and thicken. Stir a few
spoonfuls of the sauce into t he egg yolks, and-off the
heat-stir the egg yolks back into the celery mixture.
The celery can be reheated over low heat , without boil-
ing, and served directly from the pan. Or you can turn it into
a buttered gr atin dish, sprinkle it with the grated cheese,
and brown in a hot oven, preheated to 400 F. [200 C.], or
under a broiler.
CHARLES DURAND
LE CUISINIER DURAND
151
STALKS/THE ONION FAMILY
Saffroned Chard Ribs
Cotes de Blettes au Safran
Instructions on how to separate the chard ribs from the leaves
appear on page 21 . Use the leaves for another dish.
152
To serve 2 to 4
2 to 2Y2 lb. chord, leaves and strings removed, 1 kg.
ribs cut into strips 1 inch [2 Y2 em.] wide
and 4 inches [ 1 0 em.] long
2 quarts water 2 liters
Iorge onion, thi nly sl iced 1
2 boy leaves 2
Iorge sprig thyme
1 tbsp. wine vi negar 15 mi.
salt and pepper
2 anchovy fillets, soaked in cold water 2
for 10 minutes, drained and potted dry
2 Iorge garli c cloves 2
1 tbsp. olive oil 15 mi.
1 tbsp. f lour 15 ml.
3 to 4 tbsp. chopped fresh parsley 45 to 60 mi.
cayenne pepper
ground saffron 1 mi.
Bring the water to a boil. Add the onion, bay leaves, thyme,
vinegar and a little salt, and cook, covered, at a light boil for
30 minutes. St rain the liquid, discarding the solids. Cook the
chard ribs in the liquid, cover ed, at a light boil for about 12
minutes, or until tender . With a large wire skimming spoon,
transfer the chard r ibs to an ovenproof gratin dish, reserving
the cooking liquid. Grind pepper over the surface.
In a mortar , pound the anchovy fillet s and garlic to a
past e. Cook the olive oil and the flour together for a minute
or two over low heat, stirring. Add the anchovy-garlic past e,
the parsley, a pinch of cayenne pepper and the saffron. Stir
well together and gradually add about 1lh cups [375 ml. ] of
the char d cooking liquor, stirring the while to avoid lump-
ing. Continue stirring until a boil is r eached. With the pan
half off the heat , leave to simmer for 20 minutes-skimming
the skin off the surface two or three times. Taste for salt.
Pour the sauce evenly over the chard ribs and bake in an
oven, preheat ed to 450 F. [230 C.], for 20 minutes. This dish
can be ser ved as the main course of a light supper , accompa-
nied by a r ice pilaf.
RICHARD OLNEY
SIMPLE FRENCH FOOD
Chard with Anchovies
Blettes aux Anchois
For this recipe, only the ribs of the chard are used. The leaves
can be added to soups or stuffings, or they can be blanched
and sauteed in butter.
To serve 4
2 to 2Y2 lb. chord, stripped of leaves, ribs cut into 1 kg.
1 Y2 -i nch [ 4-cm.] pieces
6
12
%cup
garlic cloves, unpeeled
salt
olive oil
onion, very finely chopped
salted anchovy fillets, soaked in cold
water for 10 minutes and potted dry
(or substitute 12 oil-pocked anchovy
fi llets, similarly soaked and dried, plus
1 Y2 tbsp. [22 mi. ] anchovy paste)
finely chopped fresh parsley
pepper
6
50 mi.
12
50 mi.
Parboil the chard r ibs and garlic cloves in salted water for 15
minutes. Drain in a colander. Remove the garlic cloves,
squeeze out the pulp from the skins and reserve this puree.
Heat the olive oil in a saucepan or fireproof casserole.
Add the onion and soften it without allowing it to color . Add
the garlic puree and the anchovy fillet s. Stir wit h a wooden
spoon over low heat unt il the anchovies have disintegrated.
Finally, add t he chard and simmer for about 15 minutes.
Sprinkle with the parsley, season with pepper and cont inue
cooking for 10 minutes. Ser ve immediately.
6
2 tbsp.
Y2 tsp.
Y2 tsp.
Y2 cup
HENRI PHILIPPON
CUISINE DE PROVENCE
Fennel Braised in a Skillet
To serve 4
small fennel bulbs, trimmed and
quartered
garlic clove, sliced
olive oil
salt
pepper
stock or water
6
30 mi.
2ml.
2 mi.
125 mi.
Place the fennel in a skillet with the garlic, oil and season-
ing, and cook over moder ate heat for 10 minutes, st irring
frequently. Add the stock or water, cover the skillet and cook
slowly for 20 minutes, or until tender.
4
2
2 or 3
Y2 cup
Y2 cup
1 tsp.
ADABONI
THE TALISMAN ITALIAN COOK BOOK
Fennel with Tomatoes and Garlic
Finocchi al Forno
To serve 4
fennel bulbs, trimmed, halved
lengthwise, and cut into julienne
olive oil
onion, thinly sliced
garlic cloves, chopped
medium-sized tomatoes, peeled and
coarsely chopped (or substitute 12 oz.
(Y3 kg.] canned Italian tomatoes,
drained and chopped)
salt and freshly ground pepper
Lemony crumb topping
coarse bread crumbs
freshly grated Parmesan cheese
grated lemon peel
garlic clove, finely chopped
4
125 mi.
2
2or3
125 mi.
125 mi.
5ml.
Heat the olive oil in a large skillet and fry the onion and
garlic for a minute or two. Add the fennel and continue
frying, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon. When the
fennel is beginning to brown and is almost cooked, add the
tomatoes and seasoning. Lower the heat and cook gently for
5 minutes. This initial cooking can be done in advance.
Transfer the fennel and tomato mixture to a heavy, shal-
low gratin dish. Mix the topping ingredients together and
sprinkle over the fennel in the gratin dish. Bake in an oven,
preheated to 425 F. [220 C.], for about 15 minutes, or until
the topping is crisp.
JANET ROSS AND MICHAEL WATERFIELD
LEAVES FROM OUR TUSCAN KITCHEN
The Onion
Garlic Roasted in Ashes
Ail Cuit sous la Gendre
This is an excellent way of cooking garlic if you have an open
fire or a barbecue. If not, you can wrap whole garlic bulbs in
foil and roast them in the oven (page 77).
To serve 4
8 to 12 garlic bulbs 8 to 12
Cover the whole bulbs of garlic with hot wood ashes and
incandescent embers. Cook until the outside cloves are su-
perficially charred and the inside cloves thoroughly soft-
ened. Serve very hot and eat with bread and butter. For each
bite take a clove of garlic and squeeze out its pulp onto the
bread like a fragrant cream. The slightly burnt cloves have a
different, but equally delicious, taste.
10 to 12
3
2
1 tbsp.
1 tbsp.
% cup
2
GASTON DERYS
L'ART GOURMAND
Leek and Potato Hash
Porrosalda
To serve 4
medium-sized leeks (about 2 lb.
[1 kg.] ), trimmed, sliced and
separated into rings
medium-sized potatoes, diced
slices lean salt pork with the rind
removed, blanched in boiling water
for 5 mi nutes, drained and diced
lard or rendered goose fat
flour
water
bouquet garni
garlic cloves, crushed
salt and pepper
10 to 12
3
2
15ml.
15ml.
175 mi.
2
In a large skillet over medium heat, brown the salt pork in
the lard or goose fat. Add the leeks and potatoes. Cook, stir-
ring, until they turn golden, about 10 minutes, then sprinkle
in the flour. Brown for a few moments, while stirring wit h a
wooden spoon, then moisten with t he water. Add the bou-
quet garni and garlic, then season wit h salt and pepper.
Cover and simmer over low heat for about 30 minutes. At the
end of t he cooking t ime, t he sauce should be fairly thick.
IRENE LABARRE
LA CUISINE DES TROIS B
153
THE ONION FAMILY
8 to 10
2
1 cup
2 tsp.
Stewed leeks, Turkish-Style
Prasa Y ahnisi
To serve 4
leeks (about 2 lb. [1 kg.]}, including 2 8 to 10
inches [5 em.] of the green leaves,
halved crosswise
large onions, sli ced and separated 2
into rings
olive oil 125 mi.
large tomato, peeled, seeded and
chopped
salt and pepper
veal stock
chopped dill 10ml.
Fry the onions in the oil over moderate heat until they are
soft. Add the leeks; turn them over several times in the oil,
then add the tomato. Season the vegetables with salt and
pepper, and cover with the stock. Simmer gently for half an
hour. Serve hot or cold, with chopped dill sprinkled on top.
12
2
1 tbsp.
Y2 tsp.
% tsp.
6
1 tbsp.
3 tbsp.
VENICE LAMB
THE HOME BOOK OF TURKISH COOKERY
leeks Deviled
To serve 4 to 6
medium-sized leeks (about 2 to 2Y2 lb.
[1 kg.]}, trimmed to 1 inch [2Y2 em.]
above the white part
sprigs parsley
sprig chervi l
bay leaf
sprig thyme
whole clove
butter
dry white wine
chicken or veal stock
salt
pepper
slices firm white bread, toasted
Dijon-style prepared mustard
dry bread crumbs
12
2
15 mi.
75 mi.
125 mi.
2 mi.
2 mi.
6
15 mi.
45 mi.
Place the leeks in a fireproof earthenware or enameled-iron
casserole with the herbs, clove and butter. Moisten with the
154
wine and stock, and season with the salt and pepper. Cover
the casserole, boil briskly over high heat for 5 minutes, then
cook in an oven, preheated to 350 F. [180 C.], for 30 min-
utes. With a slotted spoon, lift out the leeks. Split them open
lengthwise. Place the slices of toast in a baking dish, arrange
the leeks on top of the toast and strain the cooking liquid
through dampened muslin or a fine strainer into the baking
dish. Spread the mustard over the leeks and sprinkle the
bread crumbs on top of them. Bake at 400 F. [200 C.] for 15
minutes and serve.
16
2 tbsp.
MAY BYRON
MAY BYRON'S VEGETABLE BOOK
Onions with Cream
Oignons a la Creme
To serve 4
small onions, peeled
salt
heavy cream, whipped
finely chopped fresh parsley
16
125 mi.
30 mi.
Soak the onions in cold water for 4 to 5 hours, being careful to
change the water several times. Parboil the onions for 15 to
20 minutes in salted water, making sure that they do not
disintegrate. Remove the onions, plunge them into cold wa-
ter, then drain them.
Place the onions side by side in a baking dish, and place
in a 250 F. [120 C.] oven to dry for 30 minutes. After remov-
ing the dish from the oven, cover each onion with about
1
12
tablespoon [7 ml.] of cream, then sprinkle the onions with a
little salt and chopped parsley. Serve immediately.
%cup
CURNONSKY
CUISINE ET VINS DE FRANCE
Crisp Onion Rings
To serve 3 or 4
large onion, thickly sliced
milk
flour seasoned with salt and pepper
oil or fat for deep frying
150 mi.
Separate the onion slices into rings. Dip them first in milk,
then in seasoned flour. Heat the oil or fat to 375 F. [190 C. ]
and deep fry the onion rings for about 3 minutes. Drain on
paper towels and serve with broiled or fried chops or steaks.
TERENCE CONRAN AND MARIA KROLL
THE VEGETABLE BOOK
Baked Onions
To serve 4
4 large onions, unpeeled
4
salt and pepper
butter pats
Put the onions in a baking dish with about 1 inch [2 em.] of
water, not more. Bake in a very slow oven, 250 F. [120 C.],
for 2 hours, or until the onions are soft when you squeeze
them. When they are cooked, pull back the brown skins and
cut them off at the roots. Serve the onions with salt and
pepper and pats of butter.
4
1 Y4 cups
10 tbsp.
1 cup
1 to
1% cups
THEODORA FITZGIBBON
A TASTE OF IRELAND
Onion Tart with Cheese
To serve 8
medium-sized onions, thinly sliced
(about 3 cups [
3
/4 liter])
cracker crumbs or crumbled water
biscuits
butter, softened
flour
hot milk
hot chicken stock
sour cream
egg yolk, beaten
salt and pepper
freshly grated mild Cheddar cheese
4
300 mi.
150 mi.
50 mi.
Y4 liter
125 mi.
125 mi.
250to
375 mi.
With your fingers, mix the cr acker or water biscuit crumbs
with 4 tablespoons [60 ml.] of the butter. Press the mixture
into the bottom and sides of a 9-inch [23-cm.] pie plate.
In a heavy-bottomed pan, saute the onions in 2 table-
spoons [30 ml.] of the butter until tender.
In another pan , prepare the sauce by first melting the
rest of the butter. Stir in the flour and cook for 1 minute.
Take the pan off the heat and stir in the hot milk and chicken
stock. Return the pan t o the heat and stir the sauce until
thickened. Add the sour cream mixed with the egg yolk.
Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Mix t he sauce with the onions and pour them into the
lined pie plate. Spread the cheese over the top of the tart and
bake in an oven, preheated to 350 F. [180 C.], for about 25
to 30 minutes or until golden brown.
THE JUNIOR LEAGUE OF DALLAS INC.
THE DALLAS JUNIOR LEAGUE COOKBOOK
4
3 or 4
2 tsp.
3 tbsp.
Cornish Onion and Apple Pie
To serve 4
medium-sized onions (about 1 lb. [Y2
kg. ]), chopped
short-crust pastry (recipe, page 167,
but double the quantities called for)
cooki ng apples (about 1 lb. [Y2 kg.]),
peeled, cored and thinly sliced
finely chopped sage
salt and pepper
mixed spices
butter
4
3 or 4
10 mi.
1 mi.
45 mi.
Line a 7-inch [18-cm.] flan dish or piepan with thinly rolled
pastry, and cover the bottom with a layer of apple. Then add
a layer of onion. Sprinkle with some of the sage, seasonings
and spices. Go on with alternate layers till the top is reached.
Moisten the edge of the pastry; put scraps of butter on top
of the onions. Cover with a thin lid of pastry and cut two or
three slits in the lid. Bake in an oven, preheated to 375 F.
[190 C.], for about 1 hour. Cover the top with aluminum foil
if it darkens too much. Serve hot.
DOROTHY HARTLEY
FOOD IN ENGLAND
Onions with Garlic
Oignons a l'Ail
This dish was created in honor of the painter Toulouse-
Lautrec, who preferred highly seasoned food. Alfred Ed-
wards, the author of the recipe, relates that Lautrec almost
made himself ill with overeating the day he sampled it. The
technique for hollowing out onions is shown on page 70.
To serve 4
4 large, firm Spanish onions 4
8 large garlic cloves 8
salt and pepper
olive oil 50 mi.
2 tbsp. butter 30 mi.
Parboil the onions for 30 minutes, adding the garlic for the
last 5 minutes. Drain the onions and reserve the garlic.
Hollow out the onions and put the pulp with the garlic,
salt, plenty of pepper and the oil into a mortar. Pound these
ingredients with a pestle to make a smooth, firm paste, then
use it to stuff the onions. Put the onions in a buttered baking
dish and bake t hem in a moderate oven, preheated to 350 F.
[180 C.], until they ar e cooked through and golden, in about
30 to 45 minutes. Serve hot.
GASTON DERYS
L'ART D'TRE GOURMAND
155
THE ONION FAMILY I ARTICHOKES
Prince Edward Island Glazed Onions
To serve 4
12 small boiling onions, each about 1 Y2
inches [4 em.] in diameter
12
4 tbsp. butter 60 mi.
2 tbsp. honey 30 mi.
Y2 tsp. salt 2 mi.
Preheat the oven to 400 F. [200 C.]. Drop t he onions into
enough boiling water to immerse t hem and cook briskly,
uncovered, for about a minute. Drain the onions in a sieve or
colander. With a small, sharp knife, trim the stem ends, slip
off the white, parchment-like skins and cut the tops from the
onions. Arrange the onions in a baking-serving dish just
large enough to hold them in one layer.
In a small skillet, melt the butter over moderate heat .
When the foam begins to subside, add the honey and salt,
and stir until the mixture is hot and fluid. Pour it over the
onions, turning them with a spoon to coat them evenly.
Basting the onions occasionally with the cooking liquid,
bake them in the oven for about 45 minutes, or unt il they are
golden brown and show no resistance when pierced deeply
with the point of a small knife. Serve at once, directly from
the baking dish.
FOODS OF THE WORLD/AMERICAN COOKING: NEW ENGLAND
Onions Stewed in Wine
Oignons a l'Etuvee
This is a dish to make when you have perhaps a glass of
leftover wine-red, white, rose, sweet, dry or aromatic (i.e.,
some sort of vermouth).
To serve 4 to 8
6 to 8 Iorge, equal-sized onions, peeled 6 to 8
1 tbsp. olive oil 15ml.
wine or vermouth 125 mi.
water
salt and pepper
Put the onions with the olive oil in a heavy ovenproof pan in
which they just fit comfortably. Start them off over moderate
heat and, when the oil is beginning to sizzle, pour in your
wine. Let it boil fiercely for a few seconds. Add water to come
halfway up the onions. Transfer to an oven, preheated to
325 F. [160 C.], and cook, uncovered, for about 1 V2 hours.
Put back on top of the stove over high heat for 2 or 3 minutes,
until the wine sauce is thick and syrupy. Season with salt
and pepper. Serve as a separate vegetable, or around a roast.
156
ELIZABETH DAVID
FRENCH PROVINCIAL COOKING
Stuffed Onions
Gevulde Uien
The technique for hollowing out onions is demonstrated on
page 70. If the chanterelles called for in this recipe are not
obtainable, cultivated mushrooms may be substituted.
To serve 4
4 medium-sized onions 4
4 tbsp. butter 60 mi.
6 oz. f resh chonterelles, chopped (about 175 g.
1 Y2 cups [375 mi. ] )
%cup fresh bread crumbs, soaked in 2 tbsp. 175 mi.
[30 mi.] light cream
2 tbsp. chopped fresh parsley 30 mi.
Ya tsp. thyme Y2 mi.
salt and pepper
Y2 cup vegetable stock, seasoned with soy 125 mi.
sauce
Y4 cup dry whi te wine 50 mi.
1 tbsp. finely cut fresh chives 15ml.
Cut off a t hin slice from the bottom of each onion so it can
stand steady. Scoop out the inside of each onion, leaving a
shell about 1,4 inch [6 mm.] thick all round. Chop the
scooped-out onion- you will need V2 cup [125 ml. ]. Parboil
the onion shells for 5 minutes and drain them upside down
on a wire rack.
Melt 2 tablespoons [30 ml. ] of t he butter and saute the
chopped onion to a golden brown, then add the chanterelles.
Fry rapidly until nearly done. Squeeze out the soaked bread
crumbs a little. Add the crumbs to the pan and simmer for 5
minutes, stirring all the t ime. Season with parsley, thyme,
salt and pepper.
Sprinkle some salt and pepper into the onion shells and
stuff them with t he sauteed chanterelle mixture. Place them
in a butter ed fireproof casserole just large enough to hold
them. Pour the vegetable stock and the wine around the
onions. Top the onions with the remaining butter. Bring the
liquid to a boil on top of the stove, then put the casserole in a
moderate oven, preheated to 350 F. [180 C.], and cook for
45 minutes, basting two or t hree times.
Remove the onions and place them on a warmed serving
platter. Reduce the liquid remaining in the casserole to half
its volume, pour it over the onions and sprinkle them with
the chives. Serve the stuffed onions with fried rice that has
been mixed with sauteed, chopped peppers and garlic.
HUGH JANS
VRIJ NEDERLANDS KOOKBOEK
Onions in Madeira Cream
To serve 4 to 6
4 large, mild onions, thickly sliced 4
8 tbsp. butter 120 mi.
Y2 cup Madeira 125 mi.
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Y4 cup heavy cream 50 mi.
Y4 cup finely chopped fresh parsley 50 mi.
Melt the butter in a wide, heavy pan. Add the onion slices
and turn them in the butter to coat them thoroughly. Cover
the pan and cook over very low heat for 10 minutes, shaking
the pan occasionally.
Uncover the pan, increase the heat slightly and stir in
the Madeira. Cook, stirring frequently, until the Madeira
evaporates and the onions are soft and lightly caramelized.
Season to taste with salt and pepper, and stir in the
cream and parsley. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and
simmer for 1 minute.
Serve hot. The onions are marvelous with steak, liver or
any grilled meat.
GEORGE SEDDON AND HELENA RADECKA
YOUR KITCHEN GARDEN

Baked Stuffed Artichokes
A rtic hauts a la N i<;arde
For instructions on stuffing articlwkes see page 79.
4
4
1 or 2
Y3 cup
To serve 4
young arti chokes, trimmed
thick sl ices French or Italian bread,
crusts removed
garlic cloves, chopped
chopped fresh parsley
salt and pepper
olive oil
4
4
1 or 2
50 mi.
75 mi.
Soak the bread in a little water, squeeze out the excess liq-
uid, then crumble the bread into a mixing bowl. Add the
garlic and parsley and season with salt and pepper, mix
thoroughly. Open up the leaves of the artichokes and place a
little stuffing between them. Put t he artichokes in an earth-
enware casserole, pour the oil over them and bake in a mod-
erate oven, preheated t o 350 F. [180 C.], for about 40 min-
utes or until tender. Serve hot, straight from the casserole.
C. CHANOTBULLIER
VIEILLES RECETTES DE CUISINE PROVEN GALE
Artichoke and Onion Gratin
Artichaux la Fagit
For instructions on how to prepare artichoke bottoms, see the
demonstration on page 25.
To serve 4
4 artichoke bottoms 4
---------------------------------------
4 tbsp.
3
2 tbsp.
fresh lemon jui ce or white wine
vinegar
butter
medium-sized onions, coarsely
chopped
salt and pepper
dry bread crumbs or freshly grated
Parmesan cheese
60 mi.
3
30 mi.
Simmer the artichoke bottoms in water acidulated with lem-
onjuice or white wine vinegar. When they are tender, after
about 20 minutes, drain the artichoke bottoms and remove
the chokes with a t easpoon.
Melt the butter in a saucepan and cook the onions until
lightly colored. Season with salt and pepper, then leave the
onions to cool in the butter. When it has cooled, use the onion
and butter mixture to fill the artichoke bottoms, then sprin-
kle the bread crumbs or P?rmesan cheese on top. Place the
artichoke bottoms in a buttered, shallow baking dish, and
bake them in a hot oven, preheated to 400 F. [200 C.], until
t hey are lightly browned. Serve without a sauce.
LE CUISINIER GASCON
157
ARTICHOKES
4 to 6
2
Artichokes Braised in White Wine
Artichauts ala Barigoule
To serve 4 to 6
artichokes, trimmed
oil
mediumsized onion, chopped
carrots, finely diced
salt and pepper
4 to 6
75 mi.
2
1 cup dry white wine Y4 liter
2 garlic cloves, crushed 2
Put half of the oil in a large, deep saucepan with the onion
and carrots. Place the artichokes on top, upright, season
them with salt and pepper, sprinkle with the remaining oil,
cover the pan and place it over low heat. Gently shake the
pan from time to time. When the onion and carrots begin to
brown, moisten them with the white wine and cook, uncov-
ered, until the wine has reduced by half. Add the garlic and a
few tablespoons of water, cover and simmer over low heat for
about 45 minutes, or until the artichokes are tender. Serve
the artichokes with the juices poured over them.
J. B. REBOUL
LA CUISINIERE PROVEN GALE
Grilled Artichokes
Artichauts a la Berigoule sur le Gril
This mid-19th Century recipe uses the old-fashioned method
of grilling over hot embers, but the artichokes may also be
cooked under a modern broiler, if placed 4 or 5 inches [10 or
13 em.] from the heat. For instructions on trimming arti-
chokes, see page 24.
158
8
Y3 cup
To serve 4
small artichokes, stems and leaf tips
removed
salt and pepper
oil
8
75 mi.
Splay apart the leaves of the artichokes and put the arti-
chokes, splayed sides facing the heat source, over coals or
under a broiler for 10 to 12 minutes. Then turn them over,
season with salt and pepper, and sprinkle with half the oil.
After another 10 to 12 minutes, when the artichokes are
cooked, transfer them to a plate and sprinkle the remainder
of the oil over them.
CHARLES DURAND
LE CUISINIER DURAND
Artichoke Gratin
Gratin d'Artichauts
For instructions on trimming artichokes and turning arti-
choke bottoms, see pages 24-25.
4
4
1 cup
2
Y2 lb.
To serve 4
young artichokes, each trimmed and 4
cut lengthwise into 3 or 4 slices (or
substitute 4 artichoke bottoms, thickly sliced]
thick slices French bread, crusts removed 4
milk
medium-sized onion, chopped
garlic cloves, chopped
chopped fresh parsley
salt pork without the rind, blanched in
boiling water for 5 minutes, drained
and finely diced
salt and pepper
Y4 liter
2
50 mi.
2 to 3 tbsp. olive oil 30to45 mi.
Soak the bread in the milk, squeeze out the excess liquid and
roughly crumble the bread. Set it aside. Mix together the
onion, garlic, parsley and salt pork. Spread the mixture in a
smooth layer over the bottom of an earthenware baking
dish. Put in the pieces of artichoke and season with salt and
pepper. Cover the artichokes with the crumbled bread,
sprinkle the top with the oil and bake in an oven, preheated
to 325 F. [160 C.], for 1 to 1lh hours or until the artichokes
are tender and the bread is brown.
C. CHANOT-BULLIER
VIEILLES RECETTES DE CUISINE PROVEN GALE
Braised Artichokes
Artichaux a la Galerienne
For this recipe, trim the artichokes in the usual way (page 24) .
Cut the artichokes in quarters and remove the chokes. Trim
the inner leaves but leave the outside leaf on each quarter
intact, to allow the diner to lift the artichoke by it. Dry white
wine may be substituted for the Champagne.
To serve 4
4 medium-sized artichokes, trimmed, 4
quartered and chokes removed
2 tbsp. chopped fresh parsley 30 mi.
4 scallions, white ports only, chopped 4
1 Y2 cups fresh chopped mushrooms (about 4 375 mi.
oz. [125 g.])
2 shallots, chopped 2
2 garlic cloves, crushed 2
slice lemon
Y4 cup olive oil 50 mi.
Y2 cup Champagne 125 mi.
Y2 cup veal stock 125 mi.
1 tbsp. fresh lemon juice 15 mi.
In a fireproof casserole, assemble the artichoke quarters,
parsley, scallions, mushrooms, shallots, garlic, lemon slice
and oil, and cook for a few minutes over low heat. Pour in the
Champagne. Add veal stock to barely cover the artichokes
and cook gently, covered, for about 45 minutes. Arrange the
artichokes on a warmed serving platter, with the leaves
pointing upward. Degrease the cooking juices, add the lemon
juice, pour the sauce over the artichokes and serve.
LE CUISINIER GASCON
Mafalda's Stuffed Artichokes
Carciofi Ripieni Alla Mafalda
To serve 6
6 large artichokes 6
2 tbsp. fresh bread crumbs 30 mi.
4 anchovy fillets soaked in col d water
for 10 minutes, potted dry and finely
4
chopped
2 garlic cloves, chopped 2
olive oil
2f3 cup dry white wine 150 mi.
Prepare the artichokes by removing the outside leaves, cut-
ting off the tops of the r emaining leaves and scooping out the
chokes. Make a stuffing with the bread crumbs, anchovy
fillets and garlic, and fill the centers of the artichokes. Cover
the bottom of a small deep pan with olive oil and, when it is
warm, put in the stuffed artichokes. Add the white wine.
Cover and simmer very gently for about an hour. Serve hot.
ELIZABETH DAVID
ITALIAN FOOD
Braised Artichoke Bottoms
with Chervil
Emince d'Artichaut au Cerfeuil
The creme fra"iche called for in this recipe may be available at
French food markets. If not, make it from the heavy -but not
ultra-pasturized -cream usually sold in health food stores.
Add about 1 teaspoon [5 ml.] of buttermilk to 1 cup [1,4liter ]of
cream. Cover the mixture, and let it rest in a warm place for 12
to 24 hours, or until it thickens. Refrigerate until ready to use.
The technique of trimming artichoke bottoms is demon-
strated on page 25.
To serve 4
6 medium-sized artichokes 6
lemon, halved crosswise
Y2 cup distilled white vi negar 125 mi.
2 tbsp. butter 30 mi.
1 shallot, chopped 1
3 tbsp. dry white wine 45 mi.
sal t and freshly ground pepper
%cup creme frolche 175 mi.
1 tsp. Dijon-style prepared mustard 5 mi.
2 tbsp. chopped fresh chervi l 30 mi.
Break the stems off the artichokes and strip off the hard
outer leaves; using a very sharp knife, trim the artichoke
bottoms. As you do, rub each artichoke well with half a lem-
on and plunge it into a howl of cold water, to which the
vinegar has been added, to prevent it from blackening.
Take the artichokes from the water one at a time, cut
them into quarters and pull out t he chokes. Rub each one
again with lemon and return it to the acidulated water.
Melt the butter over low heat in a heavy saucepan just
large enough to hold the artichokes side by side. Add the
shallot and cook, covered, over low heat until soft. Do not
allow the shallot to brown.
Deglaze the pan with the wine, drain the artichoke bot-
toms and arrange them in the pan. Add enough water to
half-cover the artichokes, season with salt and pepper, and
bring the liquid to a boil. Cover the saucepan tightly, reduce
the heat and simmer t he artichokes for 35 minutes.
Remove the cover and boil over high heat to reduce the
liquid until only about 2 tablespoons [30 ml.] remain. Re-
move the artichokes and keep them warm. Add the creme
fra"iche to the saucepan, bring the sauce back to a boil, reduce
the heat slightly and simmer the sauce for a few minutes.
Stir in the mustard, taste for seasoning, and return the
artichokes to the saucepan. Simmer for 5 minutes, basting
the artichokes continually with the sauce. Serve the arti-
chokes liberally sprinkled with the chervil.
JEAN AND PIERRE TROISGROS
THE NOUVELLE CUISINE OF JEAN & PIERRE TROISGROS
159
MIXED VEGETABLES
~ i x e "V{;getables
Stir-fried Vegetables
Oseng-Oseng Campur
The terasi called for in this recipe is a dark-colored paste
made from shrimps; it is used in very small amounts as a
flavoring in a wide variety of Indonesian dishes.
2
1 tsp.
2 tbsp.
Ya tsp.
Y3 cup
1 tsp.
Y3 cup
To serve 2
shallots, coarsely chopped 2
terasi 5 mi.
vegetable oil 30 mi.
cayenne pepper Y2 mi.
carrot, cut lengthwise into thin sticks,
then crosswise into 3 or 4 short pieces
small cauliflower florets 75 mi.
green beans, cut the same length as 75 mi.
the carrot sticks
sweet soy sauce 5 mi.
water 75 mi.
fresh bean sprouts 175 mi.
salt and pepper
Crush the shallots and the terasi together in a mortar, t hen
fry t hem in the oil in a large skillet over medium heat for
about 30 seconds. Add the cayenne pepper, carrot sticks,
cauliflower and beans. Stir continuously for 2 minutes while
frying, then add t he soy sauce and t he water. Cover t he pan
and cook over medium heat for 10 minutes, t hen take the lid
off and cook for 2 minutes. Add the bean sprouts and a little
salt and pepper. Stir for 3 minutes. Serve immediately.
SRI OWEN
THE HOME BOOK OF INDONESIAN COOKERY
Sauteed Vegetables with Persillade
For general instructions on pan frying vegetables, see page
50. The technique for preparing persillade is on page 33.
160
The following vegetable selection and amounts are not man-
datory. Sliced, tender asparagus, zucchini, broccoli and car-
rots could also be used. There should, however, be no more
than fi ve or six component parts to the dish, so that individ-
ual flavors are not lost in an anonymous hodgepodge.
To serve 4
1 cup young green beans, trimmed,
parboiled for 5 minutes in lightly salted
water and drained well
Y4 liter
5 artichoke hearts, thinly sli ced 5
4 tender ribs celery, trimmed and
thinly sliced
4
6 scallions, white and pale green parts
only, thi nly sliced
6
12 button mushrooms, sli ced 12
Y4 cup ol ive oil 50 mi.
salt and pepper
2 tbsp. fresh lemon juice 30ml.
Persillade
large garlic clove
2 tbsp. chopped fresh parsley 30 mi.
Heat the oil in a saute pan. Add the beans first and toss them
for 3 or 4 minutes over brisk heat . Add t he artichoke hearts,
celery, scallions and, lastly, the mushrooms. Shake and toss
t he vegetables for 3 or 4 minutes until all are tender but
crisp. Immediately stir in the persillade and seasoning, and
toss the vegetable mixture for another minute. Add t he lem-
onjuice and serve at once.
JUDITH OLNEY
SUMMER FOOD
Potatoes Mashed with Cabbage
Kailkenny
The original name of this recipe from northeast Scotland is
probably a corruption of colcanon, the name of the Irish ver-
sion of the same dish.
3 or 4
1 cup
To serve 4
medi um-sized potatoes, boiled
and drained
smal l cabbage, cored, boiled
and drained
light cream
salt and pepper
3 or 4
Y4 liter
In a bowl, mash the cabbage and potatoes together with a
potato-masher instrument. Stir in the cream, season with
salt and pepper and mix thoroughly. Serve very hot.
F. MARIAN MC NEILL
THE SCOTS KITCHEN
4 or 5
Y2 lb.
1 cup
10 tbsp.
Irish Potato and Scallion Mash
Stelk
To serve 4
medi um-sized potatoes (about 1 Y2 lb.
[% kg.])
scallions (about 20), tri mmed and cut
into Y2-i nch [1-cm.] lengths
milk
butter
salt and pepper
4 or 5
% liter
150 mi.
Set the scallions to simmer in a pan of milk. Meanwhile, boil
the potatoes, drain and set them to keep warm on the stove.
When the scallions are tender, strain them. Use the fla-
vored milk in mashing the potatoes, beating them until
light. Add the scallion pieces and 6 tablespoons [90 ml.] of
the butter, and season rather highly with salt and pepper.
The mixture should be a creamy green fluff when done.
Make a well in the top of each serving, and put a lump of
the remaining butter to melt in each one. You eatstelk from
the outside of your serving, dipping into the pool.
DOROTHY HARTLEY
FOOD IN ENGLAND
Spiced Vegetables, Indian-Style
Subzi Patiala
To serve 4 to 6
3 cups mixed diced carrots, cauliflower and
green pepper
2 cups freshly shel led peas
1 tbsp. chopped garlic
Y2 cup water
V3 cup clarified butter
Y3 cup chopped onion
Y2 tsp. turmeric
2 tsp. salt
1 tbsp. thinly sliced fresh ginger root
1 tbsp. fi nely chopped, seeded, fresh green
chilies
3Y2 cups milk
2 tbsp. chopped coriander or fresh parsley
Ys tsp. ground cloves
Ys tsp. black pepper
Ys tsp. ground cardamom
%li ter
Y2 liter
15ml.
125 mi.
75 mi.
75 mi.
2 mi.
10 mi.
15 mi.
15 mi.
875 mi.
30 mi.
Y2 mi.
Y2 mi.
Y2 mi.
In a blender, puree the garlic with the water. Keep this
garlic water next to the stove. Heat the butter and onion
together in a medium-sized saucepan. Cook over low heat,
gradually adding the garlic water, until the onions are
tender and the raw smell of the garlic has disappeared.
Take the pan off the heat, stir in the turmeric, and add
the mixed vegetables (not the peas) and the salt. Return the
pan to medium heat and stir the mixture until just tender.
Add the remaining ingredients and stir over high heat until
the peas are tender and the milk is reduced by about half.
Garnish and serve immediately in small, individual
bowls or poured over rice.
6
1 lb.
2 t bsp.
Y2 cup
Y2 cup
2
2 to
3 tbsp.
SHIV AJI RAO AND SHALINI DEVI HOLKAR
THE COOKING OF THE MAHARAJAS
Meat-stuffed Vegetables
Etli Dolma
To serve 6
large tomatoes or peppers, or small
eggplants or medium-sized zucchini
ground beef or lamb
butter
raw, unprocessed long-grain rice
water, or beef or veal stock
medium-sized onions, grated
roughly chopped, mixed fresh dill
and parsley
salt and pepper
beef or veal stock
butter, cut into small pieces
6
Y2 kg.
30 mi.
125 mi.
125 mi.
2
30to
45 mi.
Choose large, regularly formed vegetables for stuffing as
these will stand up better and hold more. Cut off the tops of
tomatoes or green peppers and keep them for lids. Halve
eggplants or zucchini lengthwise; scoop out the insides and
reserve for another use; sprinkle the shells with salt. (Egg-
plant or zucchini shells may be heavily salted and then
rinsed off after 20 minutes.)
To make the stuffing, melt the butter in a saucepan and
put in the washed rice, fry it for a few minutes and then cover
it with water or stock to come just over the top of the rice.
Boil off the water quite fast so that the grains are fairly dry.
Allow the rice to cool. Put the ground meat into a bowl, add
the onions and half of the chopped herbs. Add the rice to the
meat mixture and knead until smooth. Season well.
Stuff the vegetables with the mixture, arrange them in a
flat roasting pan; cover each vegetable with its lid and pour
enough water or stock around the vegetables to come half-
way up their sides. Dot with butter and bake in a moderate
oven, preheated to 350 F. [180 C.], for 45 minutes, or until
the vegetables are cooked through and soft, but have not lost
their shape. Serve hot, sprinkled with the rest of the herbs.
VENICE LAMB
THE HOME BOOK OF TURKISH COOKERY
161
MIXED VEGETABLES
Rice Stuffing for Vegetables
Dolma Iqi Zeytinyagh
The techniques of preparing vegetable shells for stuffing ap-
pear on pages 71 and 78.
6
1 cup
2 tbsp.
2 tbsp.
Y2 tbsp.
2 tbsp.
2 tbsp.
To serve 6
large tomatoes or peppers, or small
eggplants, or 10 medium-sized zucchini
Rice stuffing
raw unprocessed rice
olive oil
medium-sized onion, very thinly sliced
large tomato, peeled and coarsely
chopped
pine nuts
dried currants, soaked in cold water
for 30 minutes
sugar
thyme
salt and pepper
chopped fresh parsley
chopped fresh dill
6
Y4 liter
125 mi.
30 mi.
30 mi.
7 mi.
30 mi.
30 mi.
Wash the rice in a colander until the water runs clear. In a
deep pan, heat the olive oil and fry the onion until soft. Add
the chopped tomato, nuts, currants, sugar and a pinch of
thyme. Season with salt and pepper. Stir in the drained rice
and fry for 2 or 3 minutes. Cover with just enough water to
come Vz inch [1 em.] above the level of the rice. Boil, covered,
for 20 minutes or until the water has been absorbed. Remove
the pan from the heat, cover and allow the rice mixture to
steam for a few minutes. Uncover and cool the mixture, then
use it to stuff the prepared vegetables.
Arrange the stuffed vegetables in a shallow baking dish,
pour in enough water to come halfway up their sides, and
bake in a moderate oven, preheated to 350 F. [180 C.], for
45 minutes or until the vegetables are cooked through but
have not lost their shapes. Allow them to cool in the baking
dish and serve them cold, sprinkled with the parsley and dill.
VENICE LAMB
THE HOME BOOK OF TURKISH COOKERY
162
Ohio Pudding
To serve 2 or 3
Y2 cup pureed, boiled carrot (made from 2 125 mi.
medium-sized carrots)
Y2 cup pureed, boiled sweet potato (made
from 1 medium-sized sweet potato)
125 mi.
Y4 tsp. salt 1 mi.
2 tbsp. brown sugar 30 mi.
Y2 cup fine, dry white bread crumbs 125 mi.
1 Y4 cups milk 300 mi.
1 large egg, lightly beaten 1
1 tbsp. butter 15 mi.
In a bowl, combine the carrot, sweet potato, salt and sugar.
Add the bread crumbs. Last, add the milk and beaten egg.
Mix thoroughly, and pour the mixture into a buttered 1-
quart [1-liter] casserole or baking dish. Bake, uncovered, for
1 hour in a moderate oven, preheated to 350 F. [180 C.].
This delicious pudding resembles yellow spoon bread and is
excellent with chicken, ham or turkey.
2lb.
lib.
4
1 cup
2 tbsp.
1 cup
1 tsp.
1 tsp.
2 tsp.
Y4 tsp.
ESTHER B. ARESTY
THE DELECTABLE PAST
Vegetable Stew, California-Style
Co lac he
To serve 4 to 6
zucchini or yellow straightneck
squash, unpeeled and cut crosswise
into Y4 -inch [6-mm.] slices
green beans, cut into 1 Y2-inch [4-cm.]
lengths
medium-sized tomatoes, peeled,
seeded and coarsely chopped
fresh corn kernels, cut from 2 or 3 large
ears of corn
vegetable oil
finely chopped onion
finely chopped garlic
finely chopped fresh green chili
salt
freshly ground black pepper
1 kg.
Y2 kg.
4
Y4 liter
30 mi.
Y4 liter
5 mi.
5 mi.
10 mi.
1 mi.
In a heavy 7-quart [7-liter] fireproof casserole, heat the oil
over moderate heat until a light haze forms above it. Add the
onion and garlic. Then, stirring frequently, cook for about 5
minutes, or until they are soft and translucent but not
brown. Add the squash, green beans and chili, and stir for 2
to 3 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes, salt and pepper.
Reduce the heat to low, partially cover the casserole and
simmer for 15 minutes. Add the corn, mix well and continue
to simmer, partially covered, until the squash and green
beans are tender but still somewhat crisp to the bite. Taste
for seasoning and serve at once directly from the casserole.
If you like, you may cut the ears of corn crosswise into 2-
inch [5-cm. ] chunks instead of removing the kernels. Drop
the corn chunks into enough lightly salted boiling water to
cover them by at least 1 inch [2 Vz em. ]. At once, cover the pot
and remove it from the heat. Let the corn stand for 5 min-
utes, then drain it in a colander or sieve. Add the chunks to
the stew as described above, and simmer them with the other
vegetables for about 5 minutes before serving.
FOODS OF THE WORLD/AMERICAN COOKING: THE GREAT WEST
Meatless Stuffing for Vegetables
Yemissis Horis Kreas
For instructions about preparing, filling and braising stuffed
vegetables, see the demonstrations on pages 70-71.
12
1 cup
2
3 tbsp.
1 tbsp.
To serve 6
medium-sized tomatoes, cored or 6
small eggplants, halved lengthwise or
12 medium-sized zucchini, halved
lengthwise
olive oil
onions, finely chopped
pine nuts
raw unprocessed rice
finely chopped fresh parsley
finely chopped dill
salt and pepper
12
2
45 mi.
125 mi.
50 mi.
15 mi.
First scoop out the pulp from whatever vegetable you have
chosen to stuff and chop the pulp finely. Heat the olive oil,
then lightly fry the onions. When they begin to change color,
add the vegetable pulp. Stir this mixture for 5 minutes. Add
the nuts, rice, parsley, dill, salt and pepper, and cook gently
for 10 minutes. The stuffing is now ready to be used in the
vegetable shells.
ROBIN HOWE
GREEK COOKING
Rich Vegetable Pie
Torta tal-haxix
To serve 4
large onion, sliced
2 tbsp. olive oil 30 mi.
2 tsp. pureed tomato 10ml.
1 lb. shelled peas (about 2 cups [ Y2 liter]) Y2 kg.
2 1b. shel led and peeled broad beans (or
substitute shelled but unpeeled
1 kg.
lima beans)
2 1b. spinach or chicory, chopped 1 kg.
3 carrots, thinly sliced 3
4 large artichoke hearts, quartered
(optional)
4
Y2 cup water 125 mi.
10 anchovy fil lets, soaked in cold 10
water for 10 minutes, patted dry and
finely chopped
pitted olives, chopped
sal t and pepper
short-crust or rough puff pastry
(reci pe, page 167, but double the
quantities called for)
In a large saucepan, fry the onion in the olive oil until the
slices are transl ucent but not browned. Add the pureed to-
mato and continue cooking over moderate heat for a few
minutes. Now add all the other vegetables together with the
water. Cover and cook for about 10 minutes, or until the
vegetables are tender. (The amount of water is purposely
small so as to avoid a watery stew, but if you think the
vegetables are going to stick, you may add a litt le more
water.) Remove the pan from the heat and mix in the ancho-
vies and olives. Season well.
Line a deep 10-inch [25-cm.] pie dish, or 1 Y2 -quart [l lh-
liter] souffle dish, with pastry. Pour in the vegetable mix-
ture. Cover with a pastry lid and cut two or three slits in the
top. Bake the pie in a hot oven, preheated to 400 F. [200 C.],
for 25 minutes, then lower the heat to 350 F. [180 C.] and
cook for 30 to 45 minutes.
ANNE AND HELEN CARUANA GALIZIA
RECIPES FROM MALTA
163
MIXED VEGETABLES I STANDARD PREPARATIONS
Okra, Corn and Tomato Melange
To serve 6
Y2 lb. okra (about 2 cups [Y2 liter]), cut into %kg.
Y4 -inch [6-mm.] slices
4 ears corn, scraped (about 2 cups [Y2
liter] kernels)
4
3 large tomatoes, peeled and diced 3
4 slices bacon 4
onion, finely chopped
small green pepper, chopped
1 tsp. sugar 5 mi.
salt and pepper
Tabasco
In a large skillet, fry the bacon until crisp. Remove the ba-
con, drain and crumble it. Set the bacon aside. Discard all
but 4 tablespoons [60 ml.] of the bacon fat from the pan.
Stir the okra and onion into the bacon fat, add the corn
kernels and cook over medium heat for 10 minutes, stirring
constantly. Add the tomatoes, green pepper and sugar, and
season with salt, pepper and a dash of Tabasco. Cover and
simmer for about 25 minutes, or until all the vegetables are
tender, stirring occasionally.
Correct the seasoning, pour into a serving dish and sprin-
kle with the crumbled bacon.
2 or 3
4
2
1 or 2
2 tsp.
Y2 tsp.
THE JUNIOR LEAGUE OF PINE BLUFF, ARKANSAS
SOUTHERN ACCENT
Baked Zucchini, Eggplant
and Tomatoes
Confit Bayaldi
To serve 4
medium-sized zucchini (about Y2 lb.
[Y4 kg.])
small eggplant (about Y2 lb. [Y4 kg.])
mushrooms, thinly sliced
medium-sized tomatoes (about % lb.
[113 kg.]), peeled and thinly sliced
small onions, thinly sliced
olive oil
thyme fl owers (or substitute a pinch of
dried thyme)
garlic clove, finely chopped
sal t and pepper
2or3
4
2
1 or 2
10 mi.
2 mi .
Preheat the oven to 400 F. [200 C.]. Using a potato peeler,
peel the zucchini and eggplant lengthwise, leaving a strip of
164
skin about lf2 inch [1 em.] wide between each peeled segment
to give a striped effect. Cut these vegetables into slices less
than 14 inch [6 mm.] thick. In each of four small ovenproof
dishes, about 6lf2 inches [14 em.] across, arrange a quarter of
the vegetables, overlapping them and alternating the colors.
Mix together the olive oil, thyme and garlic, and spoon a
quarter of this mixture over each dish. Season with salt and
pepper. Cover the dishes with aluminum foil and bake them
in the oven for 20 minutes. Then remove the foil, lower the
heat to 300 F. [150 C.] and cook for 25 to 30 minutes, or
until the mixture has reduced to a vegetable "marmalade."
MICHEL GUERARD
MICHEL GUERARD'S CUISINE MINCEUR
Mixed Vegetable Stew
Ragout de Legumes
The artichokes called for in this recipe are best pared at the
last moment and added immediately to the pan. They should
then, at once, be turned around in the butter to coat all
surfaces as protection from contact with air, which rapidly
blackens them. However, if you are not accustomed to work-
ing this rapidly, prepare the artichokes just ahead of time,
but place the quarters immediately in olive oil. Subsequent-
ly, when you place the quarters in the saucepan, cut down on
the amount of butter used in the cooking.
1 lb.
6
1 lb.
8 tbsp.
2 tbsp.
Y2 tbsp.
To serve 4 to 6
large scallions, white ports only, or
very small boiling onions, peeled
garlic bulb, with the loose husk
removed, but unpeeled
medium-sized artichokes, pored,
quartered and chokes removed
medium-sized head Boston or Bibb
lettuce, coarsely shredded
small firm zucchini , thinly sliced
butter
bouquet garni made of a celery rib,
fresh parsley, boy leaf and thyme
salt and pepper
chopped fresh parsley
finely chopped marjoram (optional)
Y2 kg.
6
120 mi.
30 mi.
7 mi.
In a large, shallow copper saucepan or fireproof earthenware
casserole, melt about 3 tablespoons [ 45 ml. ] of butter, and
add the onions, the garlic cloves and the artichoke quarters.
Embed the bouquet garni at the heart of things, scatter over
the lettuce, sprinkle with salt and cover the pan tightly.
Allow the vegetables to sweat by cooking them very gently,
tossing from time to time (or stirring with a wooden spoon),
for about 30 minutes. At intervals, note the moisture in the
pan: there should be just the suggestion of a slightly syrupy
juice. If the heat is low enough, the lettuce will provide
enough liquid. But if the vegetables are cooking in fat only
and in danger of coloring, add a couple of tablespoons of
water while gently shaking the contents of the pan.
When the onions and the artichokes are tender, melt 2
tablespoons [30 ml.] of butter in a large omelet pan and
saute the zucchini over high heat , tossing very often, for 5 to
6 minutes-or until all are just tender and only lightly col-
ored. Add the zucchini to the other vegetables, cover the pan
and allow the flavors to mingle for 5 to 10 minutes. Taste and
season with salt; pepper generously and, away from the
heat, add the r emaining butter cut into small pieces. Swirl or
gently stir the vegetables until the butter is absorbed into
the juices. Discard the bouquet garni. Sprinkle the stew with
parsley- adding the marjoram, if you like-and serve.
3 cups
2or3
3 or 4
3
Y2 cup
RICHARD OLNEY
SIMPLE FRENCH FOOD
Ratatouille i ~ o i s e
To serve 4 to 6
chopped onions (about 4 medium-
sized)
tomatoes, peeled, seeded and
chopped
medium-sized zucchi ni, peeled and
sliced
medium-sized eggplant, peeled and
sliced
red peppers, halved, seeded,
deribbed and cut into strips
olive oil
garlic clove, crushed
bouquet garni
salt and pepper
3
14 liter
2or3
3 or 4
3
125 mi.
First cook the onions in t he olive oil over low heat in a large
covered pan for about 10 minutes, or until they are softened
and yellowed. Add the tomatoes and cook for a few more
minutes. Now add the zucchini, eggplant, red pepper, garlic,
bouquet garni, salt and pepper. Cover and simmer over low
heat for 1 hour, or until the vegetables have released their
liquid and softened and blended with one another. To reduce
the liquid, remove t he lid and continue cooking over low heat
for another 20 to 30 minutes.
LOUIS GINIES
LA CUISINE PROVENQALE
Standard c;preparations
Basic White Sauce
Use this recipe whenever bechamel sauce is called for.
To make about I Y2 cups [375 mi.] sauce
2 tbsp. butter 30 mi.
2 tbsp. flour 30ml.
2 cups milk Y2 liter
salt
white pepper
grated nutmeg (optional)
heavy cream (optional)
Melt the butter in a heavy saucepan. Stir in the flour and
cook, stirring, over low heat for 2 to 5 minutes. Pour in all the
milk at once, whisking constantly to blend t he mixture
smoothly. Raise the heat and continue whisking while the
sauce comes to a boil. Season with a little salt. Reduce the
heat to very low, and simmer for about 40 minutes, stirring
every so often to prevent the sauce from sticking to the bot-
tom of the pan. When the sauce thickens to the desired con-
sistency, add white pepper and a pinch of nutmeg, if you like;
taste for seasoning. Whisk again until the sauce is perfectly
smooth, and add cream if you prefer a richer, whiter sauce.
Tom a to Sauce
When fresh ripe tomatoes are not available, use 3 cups [%
liter] of drained, canned Italian pl urn tomatoes.
To make about I cup [ Y4 liter] sauce
6 medium-sized ripe tomatoes,
chopped
6
onion, diced
1 tbsp. olive oil 15ml.
garlic clove (optional)
1 tsp. chopped fresh parsley 5 mi.
1 tsp. mixed dried basil , marjoram and thyme 5 mi.
1 to 2 tbsp. sugar (optional) 15 to 30 mi.
salt and freshly ground pepper
In a large enameled or stainless-steel saucepan, gently fry
t he diced onion in the oil until soft, but not brown. Add the
other ingredients and simmer for 20 to 30 minutes, or until
the tomatoes have been reduced to a t hick pulp. Sieve the
mixture, using a wooden pestle or spoon. Reduce the sauce
further, if necessary, to reach the desired consistency.
165
STANDARD PREPARATIONS
Butter Sauce
Sauce Batarde
To make about 2 cups [ Y2 liter] sauce
2 egg yolks 2
1 tbsp. cold water 15 mi.
16 tbsp. unsalted butter, diced 240 mi.
3 tbsp. flour 45 mi.
2 cups warm water, lightly salted Y2 liter
1 tbsp. strained fresh lemon juice 15 mi.
Put the egg yolks into a bowl with the cold water; beat the
mixture until it is smooth, t hen set it aside.
In a heavy saucepan over low heat, melt 4 tablespoons
[60 ml.] of the butter. Add t he flour and stir until the mix-
ture begins to bubble. Take the pan from the heat and add
the lightly salted warm water, whisking rapidly. Return the
pan to the heat and continue whisking until the mixture
boils. Again remove the pan from the heat, allow the mix-
ture to cool for at least a minute, then add the beaten egg
yolks. Return the pan to the heat and continue to whisk until
the sauce thickens slight ly. Do not allow the sauce to boil.
Off t he heat, pour in the lemon juice, then add the rest of
the butter and whisk st eadily until it is amalgamated with
the sauce. Adjust t he seasoning and serve immediately.
3
1 tbsp.
16 tbsp.
1 tsp.
Hollandaise Sauce
To make about I cup [ % liter] sauce
egg yolks
cold water
unsalted butter, chilled and
finely diced
salt and white pepper
cayenne pepper
strained fresh lemon juice
3
15 mi.
240 mi.
5 mi.
Pour water to a depth of about 1 inch [2lh em.] into the
bottom of a double boiler-or a large saucepan or fireproof
casserole if you are making a bain-marie. Heat the water
until it simmers, then reduce the heat to low. Place the top of
the double boiler over the bottom; or set a rack or trivet into
the bain-marie and place the saucepan on the rack or trivet.
Be sure the pan in which you are making the hollandaise
does not touch the water. Put the egg yolks and the cold
water in the double boiler or saucepan, and beat them until
t he yolks are smooth. Whisk a handful of the butter into the
yolks and, when the butter has been absorbed, continue add-
ing the diced butter in this way until all of it has been used.
Beat until the sauce becomes thick and creamy. Season the
sauce with salt, white pepper and cayenne to t aste, and add
the lemon juice.
166
41b.
3 to 4
quarts
4
2
Chicken Stock
To make about 2 quarts [2 liters] stock
raw or cooked chicken carcasses,
but raw trimmi ngs, necks, gizzards
and hearts
water
salt
2 kg.
3 to 4
liters
medium-sized carrots 4
large onions, 1 stuck with 2 whol e cloves 2
large leek, halved lengthwise and washed
ri b celery
large bouquet garni, made of parsley,
thyme sprigs and a bay leaf
Put all the chicken pieces in a heavy stockpot, and cover by
2 inches [5 em.] with water. Br ing to a boil over low heat,
skimming to remove the scum as it rises t o the surface. Occa-
sionally add a little cold water to help precipitate the scum.
Add the salt, vegetables and bouquet garni, pushing t hem
down into the liquid to make sure they are all submerged.
Return the liquid to a boil and simmer gently for 2 hours,
skimming and de greasing as necessary. Strain the stock
through a colander into a large bowl or clean pot. Discard the
chicken pieces, vegetables and bouquet garni. Cool the stock
and remove every tr ace of fat that rises to the top.
Veal Stock
To make 2 to 3 quarts [2 to 3 liters] stock
veal knucklebone, sawed into 2-inch
[5-cm.] pieces
41b. meaty veal t rimmings (neck, shank or
rib tips)
2 kg.
3 to 5 water 3 to 5
quarts liters
4 carrots 4
2 large onions, 1 stuck wi th 2 or 3 whole
cloves
2
whole garlic bulb, unpeeled
rib celery
leek, halved lengthwise and washed
large bouquet garni, made of parsley,
thyme sprigs and a bay leaf
salt
Put the bones into a heavy stockpot and place the meat on
top of them. Add cold water to cover by 2 inches [5 em.].
Bring to a boil over low heat, starting to skim before the
liquid begins to boil. Keep skimming, occasionally adding a
glass of cold water, until no more scum rises. Do not stir the
bones and meat lest you cloud the stock.
Add a dash of salt, the vegetables and a bouquet garni to
the pot, pushing them down into the liquid so that every-
thing is submerged. Continue skimming until a boil is
reached. Reduce the heat to very low and cook, partially
covered, at a bare simmer for 4 hours, skimming off the
surface fat three or four times.
Strain the stock by pouring the contents of the pot
through a colander into a large bowl or clean pot. Discard the
bones, veal pieces, vegetables and bouquet garni. Cool the
strained stock and skim the last traces of fat from the sur-
face. If there is any residue at the bottom of the container
after the stock cools, decant the clear liquid carefully into
another bowl or pot and discard the sediment.
Beef Stock
Beef stock can be prepared in the same way as veal stock.
Substitute 4 pounds [2 kg.] of oxtail or beef shank or chuck
for the meaty veal trimmings, but use the veal shank bone-
omitting the bone only if a less gelatinous stock is desired.
Simmer the stock for at least 5 hours.
Vegetable Stock
Boil aromatic vegetables-equal amounts of chopped car-
rot, leek and celery combined with half those amounts of
chopped onion and turnip-with a bouquet garni and a
crushed garlic clove for 30 minutes in enough lightly salted
water to cover the vegetables. Strain the stock and discard
the vegetables and bouquet garni. Alternatively, use the
v water in which any vegetables have been boiled as a stock or
as the cooking liquid for producing a vegetable stock.
Batter for Deep Frying
The technique of making batter for deep frying is demon-
strated on page 58.
To make about 1 Y2 cups [375 mi . ] batter
1 cup flour Y4 liter
% tsp. salt 1 mi.
3 tbsp. alive oil or cooled, melted butter 45 mi.
1 cup beer or water Y4 liter
2 eggs, yolks separated from whites 2
Mix together the flour, salt and oil or butter in a bowl.
Gradually add the beer or water, and whisk for only as long
as it takes to produce a smooth batter. Whisk in the egg
yolks, but do not overwork the mixture. Leave the batter to
rest for at least 1 hour at room temperature, otherwise it will
shrink away from the vegetable pieces and provide an un-
even coating. Beat the egg whites until they form soft peaks
and fold them into the batter just before using it.
Short-Crust and Rough Puff Pastry
One simple formula produces dough for both plain short-
crust pastry and for rough puff pastry. The difference is in
how you roll it out.
To line an 8-inch [20-cm. ] piepan
1 cup flour Y4 liter
salt 1 n11.
8 tbsp. cold unsalted butter, cut into small 120 mi.
pieces
3 to 4 tbsp. cold water 45 to 60 mi.
Mix the flour and salt in a mixing bowl. Add the butter and
cut it into the flour rapidly, using two table knives, until the
butter is in tiny pieces. Do not work for more than a few
minutes. Add half the water and, with a fork, quickly blend
it into the flour-and-butter mixture. Add just enough of the
rest of the water to enable you to gather the dough together
with your hands into a firm ball. Wrap the dough in plastic
wrap or wax paper and refrigerate it for 2 to 3 hours, or put
it in the freezer for 20 minutes until the outside surface is
slightly frozen.
To roll out short-crust pastry: Remove the ball of pastry
dough from the refrigerator or freezer and put it on a cool,
floured surface (a marble slab is ideal). Press the dough out
partially with your hand, then give it a few gentle smacks
with the rolling pin to flatten it and render it more supple.
Roll out the dough from the center until the pastry forms a
circle about lfz inch [1 em.] thick. Turn the pastry over so
that both sides are floured and continue rolling until the
circle is about l0J inch [3 mm.] thick. Roll the pastry onto the
rolling pin, lift it up and unroll it over the piepan. If you are
using the pastry to line a piepan, press the pastry firmly
against all surfaces and trim the edges. If you are using the
pastry to cover a pie, trim the pastry to within lfz inch of the
rim, turn under the edges of the pastry around the rim to
form a double layer, and press the pastry firmly to the rim
with thumb and forefinger to crimp the edges.
To roll out rough puff pastry: Place the dough on a cool,
floured surface and smack it flat with the rolling pin. Turn
the dough over to make sure that both sides are well floured.
Roll out the pastry rapidly into a rectangle about 1 foot [30
em.] long and 5 to 6 inches [13 to 15 em.] wide. Fold the two
short ends to meet each other in the center, then fold again to
align the folded edges with each other. Following the direc-
tion of the fold lines, roll the pastry into a rectangle again,
fold again in the same way and refrigerate for at least 30
minutes. Repeat this process two or three more times before
using the pastry. Always let the pastry dough rest in the
refrigerator in between rollings.
167
Recipe Index
All recipes in the index that follows ore
listed by their English titles except in
coses where o dish of foreign origin,
such os rototouille Nifoise, is universally
recognized by its source nome.
Entries ore organized by the types of
vegetables and also by the moior
ingredients specified in recipe titles.
Sauces and stuffings ore listed
separately. Foreign recipes ore listed by
country or region of origin. Recipe
credits appear on pages 174-176.
Anchovies:
broccoli with, 105
chard with, 152
green beans with, 130
mushrooms in butter with mint,
lemon juice and, 134
Apples:
baked sweet potatoes with, 124
Cornish onion and, pie, 155
pumpkin and, 145
sweet potato and, 123
Artichoke, Jerusalem: doube, 115
Artichokes, 157-159
Artichokes:
baked stuffed, 157
braised, 158
braised bottoms with chervil, 159
braised in white wine, 158
gratin, 158
grilled, 158
Mofoldo's stuffed, 159
and onion gratin, 157
Asparagus:
fried, 149
gratin, 149
minute, 148
natural, 150
pie, 149
Bacon:
fried green tomatoes with, 141
pears, beans and, 130
pork and, stuffing, 126
Barbados recipe: okra pudding, 140
Batter:
beer, 124
for deep frying, 167
Bean sprouts: sauteed, 128
Beans, brood:
Maltese-style, 128
puree of, 128
with savory, 128
Beans, green:
with anchovies, 130
in egg sauce, 129
with garlic, 130
pears, bacon and, 130
in sour cream and tomato sauce,
129
steamed, 130
Beans, limo: puree, 129
Beans, wax: piquant, 131
168
Beef:
and bread-crumb stuffing, 136
stock, 167
Beer batter, 124
Beet greens:
gratin of, 98
pudding, 99
Beets:
braised slices, 113
grated, Russian-style, 113
Belgian recipe: sweet potatoes
Congolese, 124
Bread-crumb stuffing, beef and,
136
Broccoli:
omondine, 105
with anchovies, 105
Italian-style, 105
stir-fried, 105
in wine, 104
Brussels sprouts:
braised, 106
with yogurt, 106
Butter:
and onion sauce, 125
salsify in, and onion sauce, 125
sauce, 166
zucchini stewed in, 147
Cabbage:
braised, with salt pork, 109
fried, 108
poached stuffing in leaves, 108
potatoes mashed with, 160
stuffed, 107
quiche, 108
red, braised, 1 09
red, braised in red wine with
chestnuts, 110
rolls wi th mushrooms, 1 09
Southern fri ed, 1 07
stuffed, 107
stuffed, Greek-style, 110
stuffed leaves, Turkish-style, 106
Cabbage family, 104-113
Caper sauce, white, 117
Caribbean recipes:
choyotes with cheese and onion
stuffing, 144
okra pudding, Barbados-style,
140
Carrots:
cooked with Marsala, 114
in cream, 114
fried, 114
Cauliflower:
Benorosi, 111
mold, 111
puree of tomato and, baked, 112
Spanish, 111
Celeriac:
gratin, 115
and potato puree, 114
puree of, gratin, 115
Celery:
omondine, 151
baked, with herb sauce, 150
braised, with yogurt, 151
braised stalks, 150
-leaf casserole, 151
stewed, Michigan-style, 150
Chord:
with anchovies, 152
gratin of, 98
soffroned ribs, 152
stuffed rolls, 97
Swiss, pie, 98
Swiss-style, 97
Choyotes: with cheese and onion
stuffing, 144
Cheese:
Belgian endive baked with hom
ond,96
and onion stuffing, choyotes with,
144
onion tart with, 155
potatoes with salt pork and, 118
spinach and, gratin, 104
Chervil: braised artichoke bottoms
with, 159
Chestnuts: braised red cabbage in
red wine with, 110
Chicken:
and sorrel stuffing, 106
stock, 166
Chinese cabbage: braised, 112
Chinese recipe: stir-fried broccoli, 105
Chives: baked potatoes with cream
and, 120
Cider: turnips in, 126
Cinnamon yogurt sauce, 145
Collard casserole, 98
Cooking liquid, aromatic, 110
Corn:
on the cob, 131
fritters, 132
grated, pudding, 132
green, pudding, 132
Indonesian fried, 131
okra, tomato and, melange, 164
timbales, 132
Cornhusks, stuffed, 13 1
Cornmeal: fried green tomatoes with,
141
Cream:
baked potatoes with chives and,
120
carrots in, 114
and dill sauce, kohlrabi in, 113
onions in Madei ra, 157
onions with, 154
tomato and, sauce, 148
zucchini with, 146
Cucumbers:
creamed, 136
fried, 135
peas and, in sour cream, 133
stewed, with sour cream and dill,
136
stuffed, 136
Currants: spinach with pine nuts and,
102
Deep frying: batter for, 167
Dill:
stewed cucumbers with sour cream
and, 136
Dumpli ngs, spinach, 101
Dutch recipes:
new potatoes with chopped
mushrooms, 116
stuffed onions, 156
Eggplant:
baked zucchini, tomatoes and, 164
breaded sandwiches, 139
Ions, 137
fried, 137
grati n, 138
puree, 137
roosted, 138
and tomato grati n, 138
with yogurt stuffing, 139
Eggs and spinach, 1 02
Endive, Belgian:
baked with hom and cheese, 96
braised, 96
f lemish-style, 96
pie, 96
Fennel:
braised in a skillet, 152
with tomatoes and garlic, 153
flemish reci pe: Belgian endive, 96
f rench reci pes:
artichoke bottoms with chervil,
braised, 159
artichoke gratin, 158
artichoke and onion gratin, 157
artichokes, baked stuffed, 157
artichokes, braised, 158
artichokes, braised in white wine,
158
artichokes, grilled, 158
asparagus grati n, 149
asparagus pie, 149
beet slices, braised, 113
beans, brood, puree of, 128
beans, brood, with savory, 128
beans, green, with anchovies, 130
beans, green, in egg sauce, 129
beans, green, with garlic, 130
cabbage, stuffed, 107
cabbage, stuffed, 107
chord with anchovies, 152
chord ribs, soffroned, 152
cabbage leaves, poached stuffing
in, 108
cabbage with salt pork, braised,
109
carrots in cream, 114
cauliflower and tomato puree,
baked, 112
celeriac gratin, 115
celeriac and potato puree, 114
celery-leaf casserole, 151
celery stalks, brai sed, 150
chord with anchovies, 152
chard ribs, soffroned, 152
cucumbers, creamed, 136
eggplant, roosted, 138
eggplant Ions, 137
eggplant gratin, 138
eggplant and tomato gratin, 138
eggplant with yogurt stuffing, 139
garlic roosted in ashes, 153
Jerusalem artichoke doube, 115
kohl rabi in cream and dill sauce,
113
leek and potato hash, 153
lettuce mousse, 100
mixed vegetable stew, 164
mushrooms, baked, 135
onions with cream, 154
onions with garlic, 155
onions stewed in wine, 156
peas, family-style, 134
peas, green, Poitou-style, 134
potato gratin, Curnonsky's, 12]
potato gratin, Fernand Poi nt's, 121
potato pancake, 118
potato patties, 119
potato with salt pork and onion,
123
potatoes, aromatic, 117
potatoes, Languedoc-style, 122
potatoes with cream and chives,
baked, 120
potatoes with salt pork and cheese,
118
potatoes in white caper sauce, 117
pumpkin or squash gratin, 145
pumpkin and tomatoes, baked, 146
ratatouille Nifoise, 165
red cabbage in red wine with
chestnuts, braised, 110
salsify, deep-fried mari nated, 126
sorrel casserole, 1 01
spinach and cheese gratin, 104
spinach wi th currants and pine nuts,
102
spinach gratin, 103
spinach loaf Berthilda, 1 03
spinach in the old-fashioned
manner, 104
tomatoes, fried, 142
tomatoes baked with garlic, 142
turnips in cider, 126
zucchini, eggplant and tomatoes,
baked, 164
zucchini puddi ng souffle, 148
Garl ic:
onions with, 155
roasted in ashes, 153
tomatoes baked with, 142
German recipes:
pears, beans and bacon, 130
Belgian endive baked with ham
and cheese, 96
celeri ac gratin, puree of, 115
cucumbers, stuffed, 136
cucumbers with sour cream and dill,
stewed, 136
kale with potatoes, baked, 100
potato pancakes with applesauce,
120
salsify in butter and onion sauce,
125
Greek recipes:
meatless stuffing for vegetables,
163
spi nach wi th rice, 101
stuffed cabbage, 110
Greens, spring, 99
Ham: Belgian endive baked with
cheese and, 96
Herbs:
frying, as dressed in Staffordshi re,
103
pie of, 99
sauce, 150
Holl andaise sauce, 166
Hungarian recipes:
stuffed kohlrabi, 112
stuffed potatoes, 1 19
Indian recipes:
steamed green beans, 130
cabbage rolls with mushrooms, 109
Benarosi cauliflower, 111
spiced vegetables, 161
Indonesian recipes:
fried corn, 131
stir-fried vegetables, 160
Italian recipes:
artichokes, Mofaldo's stuffed, 159
Belgian endive pie, 96
broccoli, 1 05
broccoli with anchovies, 1 05
carrots cooked with Marsala, 114
caul iflower mold, 111
chard or beet greens, gratin of, 98
eggplant, fried, 137
eggplant sandwiches, breaded,
139
fennel braised in a skillet, 152
fennel with tomatoes and garlic,
153
mushrooms in butter with
anchovies, mint and lemon juice,
134
mushrooms and pi ne nuts, baked,
135
peas wi th prosciutto, 133
peppers with tomatoes, stewed,
141
spi nach dumplings, 101
spi nach, eggs and, 102
zucchini stewed in butter, 147
zucchini mold, 147
Jerusalem artichoke doube, 115
Jewish recipe: potato kugel, 122
Kale: baked, with potatoes, 100
Kohlrabi :
country-style, 112
in cream and dill sauce, 113
sauce, 112
stuffed, 11 2
Leaf vegetables, 96- 1 04
Leeks:
deviled, 154
and potato hash, 153
stewed, Turkish-style, 154
Lemon juice: mushrooms in butter with
anchovies, mint and, 134
Lemony crumb topping, 153
Lettuce:
braised, 100
mousse, 100
Lima bean puree, 129
Lithuanian recipe: potato pudding,
121
Li ttleton sauce, 140
Madeira cream, onions in, 157
Maltese recipes:
broad beans, 128
potatoes, smothered, 116
rich vegetable pie, 163
Marinade, vinegar, 126
Medi terranean reci pe: stuffed
tomatoes, Calabria-style, 142
Mexican recipes:
candied sweet potatoes, 124
zucchini with cream, 146
Milk: potatoes cooked in, 121
Mint: mushrooms in butter with
anchovi es, lemon juice and, 134
Mixed vegetables. See Vegetables,
mixed
Moroccan recipe: eggplant puree,
137
Mushrooms, 134-1 35
Mushrooms:
baked, 135
baked, and pine nuts, 135
in butter with anchovies, mint and
lemon juice, 134
cabbage roll s with, 109
chopped, new potatoes with, 116
parsnip and, souffle, 116
polonaise, 135
sauce, 132
snow peas with, 134
stuffing, 109
O hio pudding, 162
Okra:
corn and tomato melange, 164
pudding, Barbados-style, 140
Onion family, 153-1 57
O nions:
artichoke and, gratin, 157
baked, 155
butterond,sauce, 125
Cornish, and apple pie, 155
with cream, 154
crisp rings, 154
with garlic, 155
Italian peppers and, 140
in Madeira cream, 157
potato with salt pork and, 123
Prince Edward Island glazed, 156
salsify in butter and, sauce, 125
stewed in wine, 156
stuffed, 156
tart with cheese, 155
Paraguayan recipe: stuffed
cornhusks, 131
Parsnips:
crisped, 115
fri tters, 116
and mushroom souffle, 116
Pastry: short-crust and rough puff,
167
Pears, beans and bacon, 130
Peas:
and cucumbers in sour cream, 133
family-style, 134
green, Poitou-style, 134
jugged, 133
wi th prosciutto, 133
puree of fresh green, 133
Peppers:
Italian, and onions, 140
Jarvis stuffed, 140
stewed, with tomatoes, 141
Persillode, 160
sauteed vegetables with, 160
Pies or tarts:
asparagus, 149
Belgian endive, 96
Cornish onion and apple, 155
of herbs, 99
old-fashioned sweet potato pone,
125
oni on, wi th cheese, 155
rich vegetable, 163
Swiss chord, 98
Pi ne nuts:
baked mushrooms and, 135
spinach with currants and, 102
Pods and seeds, 128- 134
Pork and bacon stuffing, 126
Potatoes:
aromatic, 117
baked, stuffed wi th mushrooms,
120
baked, with cream and chives, 120
baked kale with, 100
celeriac and, puree, 114
cooked in milk, 121
creamed, Spanish-style, 123
croquettes, 118
Curnonsky's gratin, 121
Fernond Point's gratin, 121
fl oddies, 118
hash-brown, 119
Irish, and scallion mash, 161
Jansson's temptation, 122
kugel, 122
Languedoc-style, 122
leek and, hash, 153
Lithuanian pudding, 121
mashed, and turnips, 117
mashed with cabbage, 160
new, wi th chopped mushrooms,
116
pancake, French, 118
pancakes with applesauce, 120
patties, 119
ringed, 119
with salt pork and cheese, 118
with salt pork and onion, 123
seethed, 122
smothered, 116
in sour cream, 117
stuffed, 119
tomatoes stuffed with puree of, 143
in white caper sauce, 117
Prosciutto: peas with, 133
Puddi ngs:
beet-green, 99
cauliflower mold, 111
corn timbales, 132
grated corn, 132
green corn, 132
Lithuanian potato, 121
Ohio, 162
okra, Barbados-style, 140
potato kugel, 122
turnip custard, 127
zucchini mold, 147
zucchini pudding souffle, 148
Pumpkin:
and apples, 145
baked, and tomatoes, 146
gratin, 145
Purees:
baked cauliflower and tomato, 112
brood beans, 128
of celeriac gratin, 115
169
celeriac and potato, 114
eggplant, 137
fresh green peas, 133
limo bean, 129
potato, 143
Quiche: cabbage, 108
Rototoville 165
Rice:
spinach with, 101
stuffing for vegetables, 162
Roots and tubers, 113-127
Rough puff pastry, 167
Russian recipes:
beans, green, in sour cream and
tomato sauce, 129
grated beets, 113
potatoes in sour cream, 117
potatoes stuffed with mushrooms,
120
Rutabagas: mashed, 125
Salsify:
in butter and onion sauce, 125
deep-fried marinated, 126
fried, 126
Salt pork:
braised cabbage with, 109
potato with onion and, 123
potatoes with, and cheese, 118
Sauces:
basic white, 165
butter, 166
butter and onion, 125
cinnamon yogurt, 145
herb, 150
hollandaise, 166
kohlrabi, 112
Littleton, 140
mushroom, 132
thick white, 148
tomato, 165
tomato and creom, 148
white caper, 117
wine, 104
Savory: brood beans with, 128
Scallion: Irish potato and, mosh, 161
Scandinavian recipes:
Jonsson's temptation, 122
short-crust pastry, 167
snow peas with mushrooms, 134
spinach poncokes, 102
Sorrel:
casserole, 101
chicken and, stuffing, 106
stuffing, 1 08
Soubise, 143
baked tomatoes with, 143
Souffles:
parsnip and mushrooms, 116
turnip, 127
170
zucchini pudding, 148
Sour cream:
peos and cucumbers in, 133
potatoes in, 117
stewed cucumbers with, and dill,
136
and tomato sauce, green beans in,
129
Spanish recipes:
cauliflower, 111
creamed potatoes, 123
Spinach:
and cheese gratin, 104
creamed, 102
with currants and pine nuts, 102
dumplings, 101
eggs and, 102
gratin, 103
loaf Berthildo, 1 03
in the old-fashioned manner, 104
pancakes, 102
with rice, 101
Squash:
baked butternut, 144
gratin, 145
puff, 143
sauteed summer, 146
scalloped pottypon, 144
stuffed crookneck, 144
stuffed pottypon, 145. See also
Zucchini
Squashes, 143-148
Stalks, 148- 153
Stock:
beef, 167
chicken, 166
veal, 166
vegetable, 167
Stuffed vegetables:
artichokes, baked, 157
artichokes, Mofoldo' s, 159
cabbage, 107
cabbage, Greek-style, 110
cabbage leaves, poached stuffing
in, 108
cabbage leaves, Turkish-style, 106
cabbage rolls with mushrooms, 109
chord rolls, 97
choyotes with cheese and onion,
144
cornhusks, 131
cucumbers, 136
eggplant Ions, 137
eggplant with yogurt stuffing, 139
Jarvis peppers, 140
kohlrabi, 112
meat-stuffed, 161
meatless stuffing for, 163
onions, 156
onions with garlic, 155
potatoes, 119
potatoes with cream and chives,
baked, 120
potatoes with mushrooms, baked,
120
stuffed cabbage, 107
rice stuffing for, 162
squash, crookneck, 144
squash, pattypon, 145
tomatoes, Calabria-style, 142
tomatoes baked with garlic, 142
tomatoes with potato puree, 143
tomatoes with soubise, baked, 143
turnips in cider, 126
yams, 124
Stuffi ngs and fillings:
beef and bread-crumb, 136
chicken and sorrel, 1 06
meatless, for vegetables, 163
mushroom, 1 09
pork and bacon, 126
rice, for vegetables, 162
sorrel, 108
soubise, 143
yogurt, 139
Swedish recipe: braised red cabbage,
109
Sweet potatoes:
and apple, 123
baked, 124
baked, with apples, 124
candied, 124
Congolese, 124
pone, old-fashioned, 125
tipsy, 123
Swiss recipe: chord, 97
Torts. See Pies
Tomatoes:
baked, with soubi se, 153
baked cauliflower and, puree, 112
baked with garlic, 142
baked pumpkin and, 146
baked zucchini, eggplant and, 164
and cream sauce, 148
eggplant ond, gratin, 138
fennel with, and garlic, 153
fried, 142
fried green, with bacon, 141
fried green, with cornmeal, 141
okra, corn and, melange, 164
sauce, 165
sauteed cherry, 141
scalloped, 142
stewed peppers with, 141
stuffed, Calabria-style, 142
stuffed with potato puree, 143
Topping: lemony crumb, 153
Turkish recipes:
baked zucchini, 147
fried carrots, 114
meat-stuffed vegetables, 161
rice stuffing for vegetables, 162
stewed leeks, 154
stuffed cabbage leaves, 106
Turnips:
in cider, 126
custard, 127
and potatoes, mashed, 117
shredded, gratin, 127
souffle, 127
Veal stock, 166
Vegetable fruits, 135-143
Vegetables, mixed, 160- 165
Vegetables, mixed:
baked zucchini, eggplant and
tomatoes, 164
Irish potato and scallion mash, 161
meat-stuffed, 161
Ohio pudding, 162
okra, corn and tomato melange,
164
potatoes mashed with cabbage,
160
ratatouille 165
rice stuffing for, 162
rich pie, 163
sauteed, with persillade, 160
spiced, Indian-style, 161
stew, 164
stew, California-style, 162
stir-fried, 160
Vegetable stock, 167
Vinegar marinade, 126
Walnuts: zucchini with, 146
Wax beans, piquant, 131
White co per sauce, 117
Whi te sauce:
basic, 165
thi ck, 148
Wine:
carrots cooked with Marsala, 114
onions in Madeira cream, 157
onions stewed in, 156
red, braised red cobboge in, with
chestnuts, 110
sauce, 104
white, artichokes braised in, 158
Yams: stuffed, 124
Yogurt:
braised celery wi th, 151
Brussel s sprouts with, 1 06
eggplant with, stuffing, 139
Zucchini :
baked, 147
baked, eggplant and tomatoes,
164
with cream, 146
mold, 147
pudding souffle, 148
stewed in butter, 147
with walnuts, 146
General Index/
Glossary
Included in this index to the cooking
demonstrations ore definitions, in italics,
of special culinary terms not explained
elsewhere in this volume. The Recipe
Index begins on poge 168.
Acidulated water, 13; use of, 13,
24, 25, 41 . See also Blanc
Acorn squash, 18, 19; splitting and
seeding, 18, 19
AI dente: on Ito/ion term, literally
translated os "to the tooth." Used to
describe the texture of cooked posto or
vegetables when they ore firm to the
bite: not too soft on the outside and
barely cooked through.
Alfalfa sprouts, 14
Aromatic mixtures, how to
prepare, 33; duxelles, 33; mirepoix,
33; persillode, 33; sofrito, 33
Aromatics: oil substances -such os
vegetables, herbs and spices - that odd
aroma and flavor to food when used in
cooking.
Artichoke(s), 5, 6, 24-25;
ovoilobility, 24, chart 34-35; baked,
stuffed, 79; boiling instructions, chart
41; cooking methods, chart 34-35;
herbs used with, 26; preparing whole,
24; preventing discoloration, 24, 83;
removing choke before cooking, 24;
whole stuffed, 79; wine far braising,
66. See also Jerusalem artichokes
Artichoke bottoms, 52; baked
wi th eggplant Ions, 80, 81; deep fried
in batter, 5, 58; in pan-fried vegetable
mixture, 50; preparing, 25; sliced and
gratineed, 82, 83; in stew, 60, 61, 72
Asparagus, 6, 20; availability, 20,
chart 34-35; boiling, 39; boiling and
steaming, chart 41; cooking methods,
chart 34-35; draining, 39, 42; herbs
with, 26; in pan-fried vegetable
mixture, 50; peeling, 20, 21, 39; stir
frying, 51; testi ng for doneness, 39;
trimming ends, 39; tying bundles, 39
Availability of vegetables, 6, 7,
chart 34-35
Bacon, in stuffing, 46
Bain-marie, 88-89, 91; how to
make, 43
Baking, 74-75, 76-91; artichokes,
stuffed, 79; beets in skin, 76, 77;
cauliflower pudding, 88-89; garlic
bulbs, 77; grotineing, 75, 82-87;
mixed vegetables in covered baking
dish, 80-81; onions in skin, 76, 77;
potatoes, stuffed, 76; potatoes in skin,
76; sweet potatoes in skin, 76;
tomatoes, stuffed, 78; vegetables for,
chart 34-35; zucchini souffle, 90-91
Basil, 26-27, 86, 87
Basting: pouring or spooning oil, fat
or liquid over food to prevent it from
drying up during cooking; 92, 93, 94
Batter: for fritters, 58, 59; for potato
pancakes, 52; vegetables for deep
fryi ng in, chart 34-35
Bayleaves, 26,28,33
Bean sprouts, 14; availability ond
cooking methods, chart 34-35; boiling
and steaming times, chart 4 1
Beans, broad, 14; availability and
cooking methods, chart 34-35; boiling
and steaming, chart 4 1; braised with
thickened sauce, 67; shelling and
peeling, 15; in stew, 61, 73
Beans, green, 5, 6, 14- 15;
availability and cooking methods,
chart 34-35; boiling, 36; boiling and
steaming, chart 41; in croquettes, 54;
os decoration, 89; deep fried in
batter, 58; pan frying, 50; pureed, 44;
removing strings, 15; steamed in
lettuce leaves, 40
Beans, lima, 5, 14-15; availabi lity
and cooking methods, chart 34-35;
boiling and steaming, chart 41
Beans, wax, 14- 15; availability and
cooking methods, chart 34-35; boiling
and steaming, chart 41
Beer, in fritter batter, 59
Beet(s), 5, 12-13; availability and
cooking methods, chart 34-35; baked
in skin, 76, 77; boiling, chart 41 ;
glozed, 64; grotineed, 84
Beet greens, 8, 9; availability
and cooking methods, chart 34-35;
boiling and steaming instructions,
chart 41
Belgian endive. See Endive,
Belgian
Beurre manie: on uncooked sauce-
thickener mode by kneading together
equal amounts of flour and buffer.
Blanc, chart 41
Blanching: plunging food into
boiling water for a short period. Done
for o number of reasons: to remove
strong flavors, such os the excess
saltiness of some so/t pork; to soften
vegetables before further cooking; to
facilitate the removal of skins or shells.
Another meaning is "to whiten"; 6
Boiling, 36-47; asparagus, 38;
broccoli, 38; cabbage, stuffed whole,
46-47; cooking times for, chart 41;
covered-pan, shallow-water method,
38, chart 41; cutting vegetables for,
32, 4 1 ; drying vegetables after, 36,
38, 42; green beans, 36; instructions
for individual vegetables, chart 4 1;
open-pan, deep-water method, 38,
chart 41; vegetables for, chart 34-35;
See o/so Pureeing cooked vegetables;
Sauces for boiled vegetabl es;
Steaming
Bok choy, 20-21; availability, 20,
chart 34-35; boiling and steaming,
chart 41 ; cooking methods, chart 34-
35
Bouquet garni : o bunch of mixed
herbs -the classic three being parsley,
thyme and boy /eo( - tied together or
wrapped in cheesecloth and used for
flavoring stocks, sauces, braises and
stews; 26, 28, 72
Braise (braising), 60-73; brood
beans in thickened sauce, 67; carrots,
glozed, 64-65; celery in stock, 62-63;
cutting vegetables for, 32; fennel in
water, 62-63; flavorings in, 62; herbs
used, 26, 28; liquids for, 61 , 62, 66,
67, 68, 70; preparing vegetables for,
62; red cabbage in wine, 66; stuffed
leaves, 68-69; thickened with egg
yolks and cream, 67; vs. stewing, 61;
vegetables for, chart 34-35; whi te
onions, glozed, 64-65; with wine, 66,
70. See a/so Stew{ing); Stuffed
vegetables
Bread crumbs: as coating for
fragile vegetables, 51; in croquette
mixture, 54; for crust of gratin, 82, 84,
86, 87; with pan-fried vegetables, 50;
wi th stuffed onions, 70
Broccoli, 5, 10-1 1; availability and
cooking methods, chart 34-35;
boiling, 38; boiling and steaming,
chart 41; in croquettes, 54; deep fried
in batter, 5, 58; draining and serving,
38; peeling and slicing stems, 10, 11;
stir frying, 51; testing lor doneness, 38
Broiling, 75, 92-93; adding garnish,
93; adding topping, 92; basting
during, 92, 93; butter coating for
slow-cooking vegetables, 92, 93;
oiling vegetable slices, 92; skewered
vegetables, 92, 93; testing for
doneness, 92; vegetables for, chart
34-35
Brousse: o soft, smooth-textured,
white cheese, simi/or to ricoffo, mode
from sheep's milk.
Brussels sprouts, 5, 1 0;
availability and cooking methods,
chart 34-35; boiling and steaming,
chart 41 ; cooking, 1 0; parboiled for
braise, 62; trimmi ng, 11
Butter, 57; as binder in croquettes,
54; os binder for pureed vegetables,
44, 45; clarified for frying, 50; coating,
for broiled vegetables, 92, 93; in
gloze, 64; in gratins, 84, 85, 87; herbs
blended with, 27; os o sauce, 42; in
sauce, 42, 43; in stew, 72
Butter sauce (sauce bOtorde), 42
Butternut squash, 18, 19
Cabbage(s), head, 5, 10- 11 ;
availability and cooking methods,
chart 34-35; boiling and steaming,
chart, 41; Chinese, 1 0; coring, 66;
green, 10, 11; herbs used with, 26,
28; red, 10-11; red, braised in wine,
66; Savoy, 10, 11; shredded with
knife, 30; stuffed, boiled whole, 46-
47; stuffed leaves of, 68-69. See also
Brussels sprouts
Cabbage family, 5, 10-11;
cooki ng, 10
Calvados: French apple brandy.
Caramelizing: heating sugar until it
turns brown and syrupy. A/so,
evaporating meat or vegetable iuices to
leave o brown "co rome/" residue on the
boffom of the pon; 64-65
Carbon steel knives, chemical
reaction with, 10, 24
Carrots, 12- 13; availability and
cooking methods, chart 34-35; boiling
and steaming, chart 41; in celery
braise, 62; in croquettes, 54; cut for
steaming, 40; cutting out core, 13; os
decoration for pudding, 89; glozed,
64-65; grotineed, 84; herbs used with,
26; in mirepoix, 33; parboiled before
frying, 50; poring, 13; prepared for
broiling, 92, 93; pureed, 45; roll -cut,
31; shaped for garnish, 32; shredded,
52; in sliced potato gratin, 84
Cauliflower, 10,11; availabili ty and
cooking methods, baked, 88-89; chart
34-35; boiling and steaming, chart 41;
croquettes, 54; deep fried in batter, 5,
58; grotineed with cheese sauce, 86;
preparing, 11; pudding, 88-89;
pureed, 45, 88
Celeriac, 12- 13; availability or,d
cooking methods, chart 34-35;
boiling, chart 41; in mixed vegetable
puree, 44-45; parboiled for braise,
62; poring technique, 13
Celery, 5, 20-21; availability, 20,
chart 34-35; baking, 80; boiling and
steaming, chart 41; braised in stock,
62-63; cooking methods, chart 34-35;
cut on the diagonal, 31; gratineed
with cheese sauce, 86; leaves, 20; in
mirepoix, 33; parboiled for braise, 62;
pureed, 45; use of, when cooking
cabbage, 10
Celery root. See Celeriac
Chard, Swiss, 20-21; availability,
20, chart 34-35; cooking methods,
chart 34-35; deep fried in batter, 58;
grotineed, 82; leaves, in stuffing, 46;
removing leaves and skin, 21; ribs,
grotineed with white sauce, 86, 87;
stuffing leaves of, 68
Chayotes, 18, 19; availability and
cooki ng methods, chart 34-35; boiling
and steaming, chart 41; glozed, 64
Cheese, grated: for broiled
vegetables, 92; for gratin crust, 82,
83,84,86,87
Cheese, shredded, 52
Cheese custard, for gratin, 86, 87
Cherry tomatoes, 16; broiling, 93
Chervil, 26
Chestnuts, in cabbage braise, 66
Chiffonade: o French term for ony
green leafy herb or vegetable that has
been sliced into fine ribbons; 30
Chives, 26
Chopping. See Cutting techniques
Cilantro. See Coriander
Clarified butter: buffer with its
easily burned milk solids removed. To
moke, melt buffer over low heat; spoon
off the foom; let stand off the heat until
the milk solids seffle; then decant the
clear yellow liquid on top, discording
the milk solids; 50
Collard greens, 8-9; availability
and cooking methods, chart 34-35;
boiling and steaming, chart 41
Coriander, 26, 27
Corn, 5, 14-15; availability and
cooking methods, chart 34-35; boiling
171
and steaming, chart 41; cooking, 1 5;
grilled in husks, 94
Cornhusks: corn grilled in, 94;
stuffed, 68
Cornmeal, os coating lor fragile
vegetables, 51
Cream: egg yolks and, added to
braising liquid, 67; gratin topped with,
84,85
Croquettes: leftover meat in, 54;
potato, 54; vegetables in, 54
Croutons: small cubes of bread fried
in butter and used as garnish.
Cucumber(s), 5, 6; availability and
cooki ng methods, chart 34-35; boiling
and steami ng, chart 41; herbs used
with, 26; sliced and coated lor frying,
51
Cutting techniques, 29-32;
chopping leafy herbs, 30; chopping
onions, 29; and cooking time, 29; for
deep frying, 58; diagonal slicing, 29,
31; lor different types of cooking, 32,
40; forming cylinders, 32; French
names for simple shapes, 32; lor
frying, 49, 50, 51; keeping rounded
vegetables from rolling, 30; for
olivettes or noisettes, 32; roll -cut, 29,
31; shaping Ions, 80; shaping garnish
vegetables, 32; shredding individual
leaves of lettuce and spinach, 30;
shredding with rotary shredder, 52;
shredding tight heads of leaves with
knife, 30; slices, strips and dice, 30;
lor steaming, 40
Deep frying, 49, 54-59; amount of
oil lor, 57, 59; choosing oil lor, 57;
croquettes, 54; French-fried potatoes,
55; marinating vegetables before, 58;
mixed ve-getables, 58-59; onion rings,
48; pan lor, 57; parboiling before, 58;
preparing vegetables, 58; removing
vegetables from oil, 57, 59; shapes of
potatoes lor, 56-57; testing heat of
oil, 54, 55, 59; vegetable fritters, 58-
59; vegetables lor, chart 34-35
Dill, 26-27, 93
Dittany of Crete, 28
Duxelles, 33, 54; how to make,
33
Egg(s): as binder in potato
pancakes, 52; in gratin, 86
Egg whites: folding vegetables
and, together, 90; in fritter batter, 59;
in zucchini souffle, 90
Egg yolks: as binder in croquettes,
54; as emulsifier in braising liquid, 67;
as emulsifier in sauce, 42, 43; in fritter
batter, 59
Eggplant(s), 5, 6, 16; availability
and cooking methods, chart 34-35;
baked, 80; baked in skin, 76; boiling
and steaming, chart 41; browned lor
braise, 62; Ions mode from, 80;
grotineed, 82; grotineed with cheese
custard, 86, 87; herbs used with, 26;
poring, 17; prepared lor broiling, 92;
prepared for stuffing, 71; in ratatouille,
61, 72; removing excess moistu're
from, 17; seeding, 17; sliced and
broiled, 92; slicing, stripping and
172
dicing, 30; stuffed, baked, 78; stuffed,
braised, 70
Endive, Belgian, 6, 8, 9;
availability and cooking methods,
chart 34-35; boiling and steaming,
chart 41; coring, 9; in a gratin, 7 4
Fava beans. See Beans, brood
Fennel, 20; availability, 20, chart 34-
35; boiling and steaming, chart 41;
braised in water, 62-63; cooking
methods, chart 34-35; leaves, 20, 26;
prepared lor broiling, 92, 93; stringing
the bose, 21; in veal stock, 62
Fillings. See Stuffings and fillings
Fines herbes: a mixture of finely
chopped fresh herbs -the classic herbs
being parsley, chives, tarragon and
chervil; 26
Finocchio. See Fennel
Flour: as binder in potato pancakes,
52; as coating lor fragile vegetables,
51; in fritter batter, 59; preventing
taste of, in sauce, 67; in sauce, 42, 67
Foil: garlic baked in, 77; vegetables
grilled in, 94
French-fried potatoes, 55
Fritters, 5, 58-59; batter lor, 58, 59;
vegetables lor, 58
Frying, 48-59; cutting techniques
lor, 32, 49, 50, 51; parboiling before,
49, 50, 51. See also Deep frying; Pan
frying; Stir frying in wok
Garlic, 5, 22-23; availability and
cooking methods, chart 34-35; baked
with mixed vegetables, 80, 81; in
braise, 61, 62; bulbs, baked, 77;
cooking, 23; in gratin crust, 83; oven-
baked bulbs lor a puree, 77; with
pan-fried vegetables, 50; peeling a
clove, 23; in persillode, 33; in
ratatouille, 72; in stew, 72; lor stir
frying, 51
Ginger root, sliced, fried with
vegetables, SO
Glaze (glazing): caramelized, 64-
65; carrots, 64-65; clear, 64-65;
vegetables lor, 64; white onions,
small, 64-65. See also Caramelizing
Grapevine leaves, 8, 9;
availability, 8; stuffed, 68; stuffing lor,
46
Gratin(s), 82-87; with added liquid,
82, 83; artichoke bottoms, sliced, 82,
83; baking dish lor, 82; Belgian
endive, braised, 74; with bread to
conserve moisture, 83; bread crumbs
lor crust of, 82, 84, 86, 87; cauliflower
with cheese sauce, 86; cheese
custard sauce lor, 86, 87; cream lor
crust of, 84, 85; eggplant, 82;
eggplant with cheese custard, 86, 87;
grated cheese lor crust of, 82, 83, 84,
86; moistened with cream, 84-85; with
moisture-rendering vegetables, 82;
potatoes, sliced, 5, 84, 85; spinach,
82; Swiss chord, 82; Swiss chord ribs
with white sauce, 86, 87; tomato, 82;
turnips, grated, 84; vegetables lor,
chart 34-35; white sauce lor, 86, 87;
winter squash or pumpkin, 82, 83;
zucchini, 82
Gratineing, 74, 82
Greens, 9-10; availability and
cooking methods, chart 34-35; boiling
and steaming, chart 41. See also Leal
vegetables
Grilling, 75, 94; basting during, 94;
preparing vegetables lor, 94;
vegetables lor, chart 34-35;
vegetables sealed in packages, 94
Herbs: blended with butter and
frozen, 27; in brai se, 61; dried,
storage of, 28; lor drying, 27 -28;
fresh, 26-27; fresh, preservation of,
27; frozen, 27; how to dry, 27; how to
keep in refrigerator, 27; leafy,
chopping of, 30; uses of, 26, 28. See
a/so Bouquet gorni; Fines herbes
Hollandaise, 42, 43
Hubbard squash, 18, 19;
grotineed, 83
Hyssop, 26
Jerusalem artichokes, 12, 13;
availability and cooking methods,
chart 34-35; boiling and steaming,
chart 41; cleaning, 13; kept white alter
peeling, 13
Kale, 8, 9; availability and cooking
methods, chart 34-35; boiling and
steaming, chart 41
Kebabs, 93; vegetables lor, 93
Kohlrabi, 5, 10; availability and
cooking methods, chart 34-35;
boiling, chart 41; cooking, 10
Lard, 57
Leaf vegetables, 8-9; availability,
8; preserving color, flavor and texture
during cooking, 9
Leeks, 5, 22-23; availability and
cooking methods, chart 34-35; boiling
and steaming, chart 41; cooking, 23;
grotineed with cheese sauce, 86;
parboiling, 72; splitting and washing,
23; wine lor braising, 66
Lemon juice: in braise, 61; in
marinade, 58; in pan-fried mixture of
vegetables, 50; in sauce, 42, 43
Lettuce, 5, 8, 9; availability and
cooking methods, chart 34-35; boiling
and steaming, chart 41; butterheod, 8,
chart 4 1; chiffonode, 30; steaming
vegetables in leaves, 40; in stew, 60,
61,72
Lovage, 26,27
Marinade: a seasoning mixture,
usually liquid, in which food is steeped
or with which food is coated before
cooking. Most marinades ore based on
oil and o tenderizing but flavorful acid
liquid such as vinegar, lemon iuice
or wine; 26
Marinating: before deep frying, 58;
lor broiling, 92, 93
Marjoram: pot, 28; sweet, 28
Milk, in creamy grotins, 84, 85
Mint, 26,27
Mirepoix, 33; in braise, 61, 62; how
to cook, 33
Mirliton. See Choyotes
Mixed spices: a mixture of spices
and herbs -classically, equal
proportions of nutmeg, mace,
cinnamon, cayenne pepper, white
pepper, cloves, ground boy leaf,
thyme, mor;orom and savory.
Morel : on edible, wild mushroom,
available dried ot specialty markets.
Mornay sauce, 86
Mung bean sprouts, 14. See also
Bean sprouts
Mushroom(s), 6, 15; availability,
15, chart 34-35; with baked mixed
vegetables, 80; broiled, 92; cooking
methods, chart 34-35; deep fried in
batter, 5, 58; extracting liquid from,
1 5; in fillings, 70, 71; fryi ng, 50; how
to make duxelles, 33; in pan-fried
vegetable mixture, 50; souffle, 90;
steaming, chart 41 ; stuffed and
baked, 78
Mustard greens, 8, 9; availability
and cooking methods, chart 34-35;
boiling and steaming, chart 4 1
Noisettes: how to make, 32
Oil(s): amount to use lor deep frying,
57, 59; choice of, lor deep frying, 57;
lor pan frying, SO; removing
vegetables from, 57; in sauce, 42, 43;
storage of, 57; testing heat of., lor
frying, 54, 55, 59
Okra, 16- 17; availability and
cooking methods, chart 34-35; boiling
and steaming, chart 41; trimming, 17
Olive(s), black, 80, 81
Olive oil, 57; lor baked artichokes,
79; with baked mixed vegetables, 80,
81; blended with pureed baked
garlic, 77; lor frying, 50; in grotins, 82,
83; in marinade, 58; as a sauce, 42;
in sauce, 42
Olivettes: how to make, 32
Onion family, 22-23; availability,
22; cooking, 23
Onions, 6, 22-23, 52: availability
and cooking methods, chart 34-35;
with baked mixed vegetables, 80, 81;
baked in skin, 76, 77; lor boiling, 22;
boiling and steaming, chart 41;
brown-glozed, 64-65; in celery braise,
62; cooking, 23; in duxelles, 33; in
gratin crust, 83; herbs used with, 26,
28; how to chop, 29; in mirepoix, 33;
in mixed vegetable puree, 44-45;
peeling without tears, 23; in
ratatouille, 61, 72; scooping out, 70;
rings, deep fried, 48; in sliced potato
gratin, 84; small white, gratineed, 84;
small white, in stew, 60, 61, 72; in
sofrito, 33; Spanish, 22; stuffed,
baked, 78; stuffed, braised, 71; in
stuffing, 46; in veal stock, 62; white-
glozed, 64; yellow, 22
Oregano, 28
Paillasson (straw cake), 52-53
Pan frying, 49, S0-53; coated
vegetable slices, 50, 51; combining
quick frying with steaming, 52-53;
cutting vegetables lor, 50; garlic in,
50; green beans, 50; mixture of
vegetables, 50; oils lor, 50; parboiling
before, 49, 50; potato pancakes, 52-
53; potato straw coke (poillosson), 52-
53; seasoned wi th persillode, 50; a
single vegetable, 50; tomatoes, 50,
51 ; uncoated vegetables, 50-51;
vegetables for, chart 34-35. See also
Stir frying in wok
Pancakes, potato, 52-53
Parboiling: cooking food briefly in
boiling water or stock in order to soften
the food or to shorten its fino/ cooking
time; 37, 41, 44, 49, 50, 51, 58, 60, 62,
68, 71, 72,80,86,87,89
Parsley, 26, 33, 63; curly-leafed, 26;
fine and coarse chopping of, 31; flat-
leafed, 26; in gratin crust, 83; in
persi/lode, 33
Parsnips, 5, 12-13; availability and
cooking methods, chart 34-35; boiling
and steaming, chart 41; cutting out
core, 13; glazed, 64; gratineed, 84;
paring technique, 13
Pattypan(s), 18; hollowed out for
stuffing, 19
Peas, 5, 6, 14; availability and
cooking methods, chart 34-35; bailing
and steaming, chart 41; herbs used
wi th, 26; pureed, 44, 45; steamed in
lettuce leaves, 40; in stew, 61, 73. See
also Snow peas
Peanut oil: for deep frying, 57; for
stir frying, 50
Peeling: asparagus, 20, 21; broad
beans, 15; celeriac, 13; clove of
garlic, 23; cucumbers, 17; keeping
vegetables white after, 13; onions, 23;
peppers, 17; shallots, 23; thick-
skinned roots and tubers, 13; thin-
skinned roots and tubers, 13;
tomatoes, 1 7; waxed rutabagas, 13
Peppers, 5, 16-17; availability and
cooking methods, chart 34-35; baked,
80; boiling and steaming, chart 41;
frying-type, 16; halving and seeding,
17; herbs used with, 28; peeling, 17;
prepared for stuffing, 71; in rototoville,
61, 72; stuffed, baked, 78; stuffed,
braised, 71; in veal stock, 62
Persillade, 33, 54, 78, 79; added to
fried vegetables, 50; how to mix, 33;
pan-fried vegetables seasoned with,
50; in squash gratin, 83
Plum tomatoes, 16; uses of, 16
Pods and seeds, 5, 14-15
Pork, in stuffing, 46
Potato(es), 5, 6, 12- 13; availability
and cooking methods, chart 34-35;
baked in skins, and stuffed, 76;
boiling and steaming, chart 41;
forming cylinders, 32; French-fried,
55; for frying, 55; herbs used with, 26;
kept white after poring, 13; long
russet, 12; in mixed vegetable puree,
44 -45; new, grilled, 94; pancakes, 52-
53; poring, 13; prepared for broiling,
92; preventing bursting of, during
cooking, 13; round red, 12; round
white, 12; scalloped, 84; long white,
12; pureed, 44, 54; shaped for
garnish, 32; shapes of, for deep
frying, 56-57; shredded, 52-53, 56;
sl iced, grotineed, 5, 84, 85; straw
cake (poillosson), 52-53. See also
Sweet potatoes
Prosciutto: the Ito/ion nome for
salted ond dried, but unsmoked, hom.
Pudding(s): cauliflower, 88-89;
vegetables for, chart 34-35
Pumpkin(s), 18; gratineed, 84;
pureed, 44. See also Winter squashes
Puree(s): about, 44; adding butter
to, as binder, 44, 45; of mixed
vegetables, 44-45
Pureeing cooked vegetables,
44-45; cauliflower, 45, 88; celery, 45;
equipment, 44-45; garlic, 77; green
beans, 44, 45; with low starch
content, 44; peas, 44, 45; potatoes,
44, 45; pumpkin, 44; using drum
sieve, 45; using food mill, 45; using
food processor, 45; using pestle and
sieve, 44; using potato masher, 44
Quatre epices: o French term for o
mixture of ground spices, usually block
pepper, nutmeg, cloves ond either
cinnamon or ginger. The proportions
vory from cook to cook, but the pepper
always predominates.
Radishes, 7
Ratatouille, 5, 61, 72-73; preparing
vegetables for, 72-73; reducing liquid
in, 72, 73; served hot or cold, 73
Reducing: boiling down o liquid to
concentrate its flavor ond thicken it to
the consistency of o sauce.
Rendering: refining fot by melting
the pure fot out of the flesh y tissues.
Rendered fot, such os thot from pork or
goose, is used for cooking.
Rice, as binder in stuffing, 46, 68, 71
Romaine, 8; boiling and steaming
instructions, chart 4 1
Roots and tubers, 5, 12- 13;
carved into shapes for garnishes, 29,
32; kept white after peeling, 13;
peeling techniques, 13; preserving
vitamins in, 13
Rosemary, 28
Roux: o cooked mixture of butter ond
flour used to thicken sauces; 42
Rutabagas, 12- 13; availability and
cooking methods, chart 34-35; boiling
and steaming, chart 41; poring
technique, 13; waxed, paring of, 13
Sage, 26-27
Salsify, 12-13; availability and
cooking methods, chart 34-35;
boiling, chart 4 1; kept white after
poring, 13; poring technique, 13
Salt pork: in braise, 61; in cabbage
braise, 66; in stuffed leaves, 68
Sauce(s): cheese custard, for gratin,
86, 87; mornay, 86; preventing taste
of flour in, 67; thick white, for souffle,
90; tomato, 61, 92; tomato as
braising liquid, 69; veloute, 86; white,
for gratin, 86, 87
Sauce(s) for boiled vegetables:
butter as, 42; butter in, 42, 43; egg
yolks in, 42, 43, 67; hollandaise, 42,
43; lemon juice in, 42, 43; olive oil as,
42; preventing curdling of, 42; sauce
batorde (butter sauce), 42; vinaigrette,
42; vinegar in, 42, 43. See also Roux
Sauteing. See Pan frying
Savory: summer, 28; wi nter, 28;
winter, in braise made of broad
beans, 67
Scallions, 6, 22-23; availability and
cooking methods, chart 34-35; boiling
and steaming, chart 41; cooking, 23;
deep fried in batter, 58; in pan-fried
vegetable mi xture, 50
Scalloped squash. See
Pattypan(s)
Shallots, 22-23; availability and
cooking methods, chart 34-35;
boiling, chort 41; chopped, 50; in
duxelfes, 33; peeling, 23
Shoestring potatoes, 56
Simmering: cooking in liquid ot iust
below boiling point, so thot the surface
of the liquid trembles, but bubbles do
not burst violently.
Skewered vegetables, 92, 93
Slicing. See Cutting techniques
Snow peas, 14-15; availability and
cooking methods, chart 34-35; boiling
and steaming, chart 41; fryi ng, SO;
herbs used with, 26; parboiling, 72,
73; removing strings, 15; in stew, 60,
72, 73
Sofrito, 33; in braise, 6 1; in
eggplant gratin, 86, 87; how to make,
33
Sorrel, 8, 9; availability of, 8, chart
34-35; cooking methods, chart 34-35;
deep fried in batter, 58, 59;
parboiling, chart 41
Souffle(s): covered with sauce of
cream and tomato puree, 91;
vegetables for, chart 34-35; zucchini,
90-91
Spaghetti squash, 18; availability
and cooking methods, chart 34-35;
boiling and steaming, chart 41
Spinach, 5, 8, 9; availability and
cooking methods, chart 34-35; boiling
and steaming, chart 41; chiffonade,
30; deep fried in batter, 58; grotineed,
82; in potato pancakes, 52; pudding,
88; souffle, 90; stemming and
washing, 9; stuffed leaves,
68
Squashes, 18- 19; availability, 18,
chart 34-35; cooking methods, chart
34-35; herbs used with, 26, 28;
hollowing scalloped squash, 19;
preparing, 18- 19; removing excess
moisture from, 18, 90; seeds of,
sauteed for snack, 19; splitting and
seeding winter squashes, 19. See also
Pattypan(s); Summer squashes;
Winter squashes; Zucchini
Stalks, 20-21; availability, 20;
shopping for, storing and preparing,
20-21
Steaming, 37, 40; combining quick
frying with, 52-53; cutti ng vegetables
for, 40; instructions for individual
vegetables, chart 41; in lettuce leaves,
40; over boiling water, 40; testi ng for
doneness, 40; vegetables for, chart
34-35
Stew(ing), 61; parboiling
vegetables, 72; preparation of
vegetables, 72; ratatouille, 61, 72-73;
reducing liquid in ratatouille, 72;
vegetables for, chort 34-35; vs. braise,
6 1; of young vegetables, 60, 61, 72-
73. See also Braise (braising)
Stir frying in wok, 5 1; broccoli,
51; parboiling before, 51; peanut oil
for, 50; peeled garlic cloves for, 51;
seasonings for oil, 51; size of
vegetable pieces, 51; turni ng oil into
sauce, 51. See also Pan frying
Stock: celery braised in, 62-63;
onions glazed in, 64; veal, 61, 62
Straw cake (paillasson), 52-53
Stuffed vegetables, 70-71;
artichokes, baked, 79; braising liquids
for leaves, 68, 69; cabbage, boiled
whole, 46-47; cabbage leaves, 68-
69; chard leaves, 68; cornhusks, 68;
eggplants, baked, 78; grapevine
leaves, 68; how to roll leaves, 68;
mushroom cops, baked, 78; onions,
baked, 78; onions, braised, 70;
peppers, baked, 78; peppers,
braised, 71; potatoes, baked, 76;
preparing vegetables and leaves, 68,
71; tomatoes, baked, 78; vegetables
for, chart 34-35; zucchini, baked, 78.
See also Stuffings and fillings
Stuffings and fillings: for baked
artichokes, 79; for baked potatoes,
76; for baked tomatoes, 78; for
baked whole vegetables, 75; for
boiled stuffed whole cabbage, 46; for
braised eggplants, peppers and
zucchini, 71; for vegetable leaves, 68
Suet, 57
Sugar, in glaze, 64
Summer squashes, 18, 19;
availability and cooki ng methods,
chart 34-35; boiling and steaming,
chart 41; prepared for broiling, 92; stir
frying, 5 1
Sweating: cooking vegetables in o
little fot over gentle heot in o closed
vessel until they exude their iuices.
Often o preliminary to braising.
Sweet potatoes, 12- 13; availability
and cooking methods, chart 34 -35;
baked in skin, 76
Swiss chard. See Chard, Swiss
Tarragon, 26
Thyme, 33; common, 28; leaf, 27;
lemon, 26, 27
Tomato(es), 5, 6, 16-17; availability
and cooking methods, chart 34-35;
baked, 80; cherry, broiled, 16, 93;
choice of, according to use, 16;
coated for frying, 51; coring and
seeding, 17, 78; deep fried in batter,
58; gratineed, 82; greenhouse or
hothouse, 16; herbs used with, 26, 28;
peeling and seeding, 17; prepared for
broiling, 92; in ratatouille, 6 1, 72;
ripening of, 16; in sofrito, 33; stuffed
and baked, 78; in stuffing, 46
Tomato sauce, 61, 92; in braise,
62, 68, 69; how to make, 69
Truffle: on edible wild fungus,
sometimes ovoiloble fresh in winter
months at specialty markets in forge
173
steaming, 41 Yellow crookneck(s), 18, 19 cities, but usually found conned.
Tubers, 12-13. See a/so Roots and
tuber s
Turnip(s), 5, 12- 13; availabili ty and
cooki ng methods, chart 34-35; boiling
and steaming, chart 41; gratineed, 84;
in mi xed vegetable puree, 44-45;
parboiled for braise, 62; removing
moisture from, 84; shaped for garnish,
32; souffle, 90; stir frying, 51
Veal stock: in braise, 6 1, 62, 66;
celery braised in, 62-63; for glazed
onions, 64
Vegetable fruits, 16- 17;
availability, 16; shopping for, storing
and preparing, 16-17
Veloute, 86
White sauce, 86; in cauliflower
pudding, 88; in zucchini souffle, 90
Wine(s): lor baked artichokes, 79; in
braise, 61 , 70; red, in braised red
cabbage, 66; types of, lor braising,
66
Zucchini, 5, 18, 19; availability and
cooking methods, chart 34-35; baked,
cut up, 80; boiling and stea mi ng, chart
41; browned for braise, 62; cut for
steami ng, 40; deep fried in batter, 58;
gratineed, 82, 84; gratineed with
cheese custard, 86; grilled, 94;
prepared for stuffing, 71; pudding,
88; in ratatouille, 61, 73; souffle, 90;
squeezing liquids from, 90; in stew,
72; stuffed, baked, 78; stuffed,
bra ised, 70; wine lor braising, 66. See
also Summer squashes
Winter squashes, 18, 19;
Turnip greens, 8, 9 ; avai lability
and cooking methods, chart 34-35;
boiling and steaming, chart 41
Vinaigrette, 42, 43; with pureed
garlic, 77
Vine leaves. See Grapevine leaves
Vinegar: red wine, 43; in sauce, 42,
43
Water: acidulated, 13, 24, 25;
amount of, lor boiling and
availability and cooking methods,
chart 34-35; baked in skin, 76; boili ng
and steaming, chart 41; gratineed, 82,
83; seeds of, sauteed lor snack, 19
Wok, 51; stir frying in, 50, 51
Veal, in stuffing, 46
Recipe Credits
The sources for the recipes in this volume ore shown below.
Page references in parentheses indicate where the recipes
appear in the anthology.
Acton, Eliza, Modern Cookery. Published by Longman,
Green, Longman, and Roberts, 1865(1 26).
Aine, OHray, Le Cuisinier Meridional. lmprimeur-
Li braire, 1855(11 7, 126).
Ali -Bob, Encyclopedia of Practical Gastronomy. Translat-
ed by Elizabeth Benson. English Translation. Copyright
1974 by McGraw-Hill, Inc. Published by McGraw-Hill
Book Company, New York. With permission of McGraw-
Hill Book Co. (I 12, 126).
Anderson, Jean, The Gross Roots Cookbook. Copyright
1977 by Jean Anderson. Published by Times Books. Re-
printed by permission of Times Books, a Division of Quad-
rangle/The New York Times Book Co., lnc.(141).
Anderson, Jean, and Elaine Hanna, The Doubleday
Cookbook. Copyright 1975 by Doubleday & Company,
Inc. Reprinted by permission of the publisherl1 40) .
Aresty, Esther B., The Delectable Post. Copyright
1964 by Esther B. Aresty. Published by Simon & Schuster, o
Division of Gulf & Western Corporation. Reprinted by per-
mission of Simon & Schuster, o Division of Gulf & Western
Corporotion(115, 162).
Boutte, A., 239 Monieres d' Accommoder les Pommes de
Terre. Published by Librairie Bernordin-Bechet, Paris,
1932(120).
Beard, James, James Beard's American Cookery. Copy-
right 1972 by James Beard. Published by Little, Brown
and Company, Boston. By permission of Little, Brown and
Compony(119, 148).
Besson, Josephine, La Mere Besson "Mo cuisine pro-
venj:ole. " Editions Albin Mi chel, 1977. Published by tdi-
tions Albin Michel, Paris. Translated by permission of tdi-
tions Albin Michel(149).
Blanchard, Marjorie Page, The Home Gardener's
Cookbook. Copyright 1974 by Garden Way Publishing
Company, Charlotte, Vermont. Reprinted by permission of
Writers House lnc.( 132, 144).
Bani, Ada, Italian Regional Cooking. Copyright 1969
s.c. by Arnalda Mondodori. Published by Bonanza Books.
By permission of Arnalda Mondadori(133) .
Bani, Ada, The Talisman Italian Cook Book. Copyright
1950, 1978 by Crown Publishers, Inc. Published by Crown
Publishers, Inc., New York. Used by permission of Crown
Publishers, lnc.(152).
Boxer, Arabella, Nature's Harvest, The Vegetable Cook
Book. 1974 by Arabella Boxer. Published by Contempo-
rary Books, Inc., Chicago. By permission of Contemporary
Books, lnc.(118).
174
Yams. See Sweet p otatoes
Boyd, lizzie, (Editor), British Cookery. Copyright Brit-
ish Farm Produce Council and British Tourist Authority.
Published by Croom Helm (London). By permission of Brit-
ish Form Produce Counci l and British Tourist Authority( 117,
118)
Breteuil, Jules, Le Cuisinier Europeen. Published by
Garnier Freres c. 1860(114, 136).
Buc'hoz, Manuel Alimentaire des Plontes. Published in
1771(135).
The Buckeye Cookbook. As published by the Buck-
eye Publishing Co. 1883. Published by Dover Publications
Inc., New York 1975(10B, 119, 132, 149).
Burros, Marian, Pure and Simple. Copyright 1978 by
Marian Fox Burros. Published by Wi lliam Morrow & Com-
pany, Inc. Reprinted by permission of Wi lliam Morrow &
Company, lnc.(146).
Byron, May, Moy Byron's Vegetable Book. Published by
Hodder & Stoughton limited, London 1916. By permission
of Hodder & Stoughton, Limited(122, 154).
Carlos, Don, Spanish-Mexican Cookbook. Published by
Charles Parnell Leahy, 1951, Los Angeles, Colifornio (124).
Carnacino, Luigi, and Luigi Veronelli, La Buono
Vera Cucino Italiano. 1966 by Rizzoli Editore. Published
by Rizzoli Editore, Mil an. Translated by permission of Riz-
zoli Editore(98, 105, 141 ).
Caruana Galizia, Anne and Helen, Recipes from
Malta. Copyright Anne and Helen Caruana Galizia,
1972. Published by Progress Press Co. Ltd., Voletta. By
permission of Anne and Helen Caruana Galizio( 116, 128,
163).
Cavalera, Giovanni, and Odilia Marchesini, La
Cucina delle Stogioni . 1975, Longonesi & C. Published by
Longanesi & C., Mil an. T ronslated by permission of Lon-
ganesi & C.(101).
Chanot-Bullier, C., Vieilles Recettes de Cuisine Proven-
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mission of Tacussel, tditeuri115, 157, 158).
Clari sse ou Ia Vieille Cuisiniere. Copyright 1922
by Editions de I'Abeille d'Or. Published by Editions de
I'Abeille d'Or, Paris. Translated by permission of Editions
Rombaldi, Paris( 130).
Conran, Terence, and Maria Kroll, The Vegetable
Book. Conran Ink 1976. Published by William Coll ins
Sons & Co. Ltd., Glasgow and Crescent, New York (an im-
print of Crown Publishers, Inc.). By permission of William
Collins Sons & Co. Ltd.(154).
Cook Ia a Florentine Family, The, Not Only
Spaghetti! Published by Librerio Editrice Fiorentino, Flor-
ence, Italy. By permission of Librerio Editrice Fioren-
tino(l02, 111, 147) .
Costa, Margaret, Morgoret Casto's Four Seasons Cook-
ery Book. Copyright Margaret Costa. First publi shed in
Great Bri tain by Thomas Nelson & Sons Ltd., 1970, also by
Sphere Books Ltd., Landon 1976. By permission of Marga-
ret Costa(142).
l e Cuisinier Gascon-1740. Reprinted by Editions
Daniel Morcrette, B.P. 26,95270, Luzarches, France. Trans-
lated by permission of tditions Daniel Morcrette(106,
157, 159).
Curnonsky, Cuisine et Vins de Fronce. Copyright 1953
by Auge Gillon, Hollier-Larousse, Moreau et Cie. (Librairie
Larousse), Paris. Published by Librairie Larousse, Paris.
Translated by permission of Societe Encyclopedique Uni-
versel le(104, 110, 121, 154).
Cutler, Carol, The Six-Minute Souffle and Other Culinary
Delights. Copyright 1976 by Carol Cutler. Published by
Clarkson N. Potter, Inc. By permission of Clarkson N. Pot-
ter, lnc.(1 00, 129, 150).
Dannenbaum, Julie, Julie Donnenbaum's Creative
Cooking School . Copyright 1971 by Julie Dannenbaum.
Published by E.P. Dutton, New York. By permission of E.P.
Dutton(106, 141).
Dannenbaum, Julie, Menus for All Occasions. Copy-
right 1974 by Julie Dannenboum. Publi shed by E.P. Dut-
ton, New York. Reprinted by permission of E.P.
Dutton(143).
David, Elizabeth, French Country Cooking. Copyright
Elizabeth David, 1951, 1958, 1966. Publi shed by Penguin
Books Ltd., London. By permission of Penguin Books
Ltd.(138).
David, Elizabeth, French Provincial Cooking. Copyright
Elizabeth David, 1960, 1962, 1967, 1970. Published by
Penguin Books Ltd., London. By permission of Elizabeth
David(156) .
David, Elizabeth, Ito/ion Food. Copyright Elizabeth
David, 1954, 1963, 1969. Published by Penguin Books Ltd.,
London. By permission of Penguin Books Ltd. (159).
David, Eli zabeth, Spices, Solt ond Aromatics in the Eng-
lish Kitchen. Copyright Elizabeth David, 1970. Published
by Penguin Books Ltd .. london. By permission of Penguin
Books Ltd.(121).
Day, Irene F., The Moroccan Cookbook. Copyright
1975 by Irene F. Day. Published by Quick Fox, a division of
Music Sales Corporation. Reprinted by permission of
Quick Fox(137).
de Aquino, Josefina Velilla, Tembi'u Poroguoi
Comida Poraguoyo. Ediciones Primer Institute de Arte Cu-
linario, Asuncion. Fourth Edition, published 1977(131 ).
de Craze, Austin, Les Plots Regionoux de France. Pub-
lished by tditions Daniel Morcrette, B.P. 26,95270, lu-
zarches, France. Translated by permission of Editions Dan-
iel Morcrette(l07, 108, 118, 128).
De Gouy, louis P. , The Gold Cook Book (revised edi -
tion). Copyright 1948, 1964 by the author. Published by
Chi lton Book Company, Radnor, Pennsylvania. Reprinted
with the permission of the publ isher, Chilton Book Com-
pany(97, 105, 112, 127[.
Derys, Gaston, L'Art d' Etre Gourmand. Copyright by Al-
bin Michel, 1929. Publi shed by Edi tions Albin Mi chel, Paris.
Translated by permission of Editions Albin Michel(153,
155).
DuH, Gail, Fresh All The Yeor. Gail Duff, 1976. Pub-
lished by Macmi ll an london Ltd., 1976. By permission of
Macmillan l ondon Ltd. (127).
Durand, Charles, Le Cuisinier Durand. Privately pub-
lished by the author, 1843(1 51 , 1 58) .
Elkon, Juliette, A Belgian Cookbook. Copyright 1958
by Farrar, Straus & Cudahy, Inc. (now Forrer, Straus & Gi-
roux, Inc.). Reprinted with the permission of Forrer, Straus
& Giroux, lnc.(124).
Eren, Neset, The Art of Turkish Cooking. Copyright
1969 by Neset Eren. Published by Doubleday & Company,
Inc., New York. Reprinted by permission of Neset
Eren(1 47) .
Escoffier, Auguste, Nlo Cuisine. English text 1965 by
The Homlyn Publishing Group limited. Published by The
Homlyn Publishing Group limited, london. By permission
of The Homlyn Publishing Group limited(109, 142).
Evelyn, John, Acetorio. Privately published 1699(99).
Farmer, Fannie Merritt, The Boston Cooking-School
Cookbook, (1924 Edition). Copyright 1896, 1900, 1901,
1902, 1903, 1904, 1905, 1906, 1912, 1914 by Fannie Form-
er. Copyright 1915, 1918, 1923, 1924, 1928, 1929 by Cora
D. Perkins. Copyright 1930, 1931, 1932, 1933, 1934, 1936,
1940, 1941, 1942, 1943, 1946, 1951, 1959, 1964, 1965
by Dexter Perkins Corporati on. Published by little, Brown
and Company, Boston. By permission of little, Brown ond
Compony(140).
Fitzgibbon, Theodora, A Toste of Ireland. Copyright
1968 by Theodora Fitzgibbon. Published by Houghton
Mifflin Company, Boston. Reprinted by permission of
Houghton Mifflin Compony(155).
Foods of the World, American Cooking, The Great
West, American Cooking, New England, The Cooking of
Germany, The Cooking of Provincial France, The Cooking of
Scandinavia. Copyright 1971 Time Inc., Copyright 1970
Time Inc., Copyright 1969 Time-life Books Inc., Copy-
right 1968 Time Inc., Copyright 1968 Time-life Books
lnc.(162; 156; 96, 100, 120, 136; 110; 102, 122).
Fri ed, Barbara R., The Four-Season Cookbook. Copy-
right Macmillan Publishing Co., Inc., 1961. Reprinted with
permission of Macmillan Publishing Co., lnc.(133).
Garlin, Le Cuisinier Modern. Publi shed in 1887(104).
Gini es, louis, La Cuisine Proven,ale. Published by
UNIDE, Paris, 1976. Translated by permission
of UNIDE(138, 165).
Gould-Marks, Beryl, The Home Book of Italian Cook-
ery. Beryl Gould-Marks, 1969. Published by Faber &
Faber, london. By permi ssion of Faber & Faber( 105, 137).
Grigson, Jane, Good Things. Copyright 1968, 1969,
1970, 1971 by Jone Grigson, Copyright 1971 by Alfred
A. Knopf. Reprinted by permission of Alfred A. Knopf(116,
149).
Grossinger, Jennie, The Art of Jewish Cooking. Copy-
right 1958 by Random House, Inc. Published by Random
House, Inc. Reprinted by permission of Random House,
lnc.(122).
Guerard, Michel, Michel Guerard's Cuisine Minceur.
English translation copyright 1976 by Editions Robert lof-
font S.A. By permission of William Morrow & Company,
lnc.(164) .
Guillot, Andre, La Grande Cuisine Bourgeoise. 1976,
Flommorion, Paris. Published by Flommorion et Cie.Trons-
loted by permission of Flommorion et Cie.(100).
Harrington, Geri, Summer Gorden, Winter Kitchen.
Copyright 1976 Geri Harrington. Published by Atheneum
Publishers. Used by permi ssion of Atheneum Publishers
(99).
Hartley, Dorothy, Food in England. Published by Moe-
donald & Jane's, london, 1975. By permission of Macdon-
ald & Jone's(155, 161).
Harwood, Jim, and Ed Callahan, Soul Food Cook-
book. Copyright 1969 by Nitty Gri tty Productions, Con-
cord, California. All rights reserved. Published by Nitty
Gritty Productions. Used by permission of Nitty Gritty
Productions( 124).
Hawkes, Al ex D., Cooking With Vegetables. Copyright
1968 by Alex D. Hawkes. Published by Simon & Schu-
ster, o Division of Gulf & Western Corporati on. Reprinted
by permission of Simon & Schuster, o Divi sion of Gulf &
Western Corporotion(134, 145).
Hazelton, Nika, The Unabridged Vegetable Cookbook.
Copyright 1976 by Niko Hazelton. Published by M. Ev-
ans and Company, Inc., New York. Reprinted by permis-
sion of M. Evans ond Company, Inc., New York( 125,
144, 146).
Hazelton, Nika Standen, The Regional Italian Kirchen.
Copyright 1978 by Niko Standen Hazelton. Published by
M. Evans and Company, Inc., New York. Translated by
permission of M. Evans and Company, lnc.( 114).
Hewitt, Jean, The New York Times Natural Foods Cook-
book. Copyright 1974 by Jeon Hewitt. Published by
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Times Book Co., lnc.(123, 128, 143).
Heyraud, H., Lo Cuisine a Nice. Published by
lmprimerie-libroirie -Popeterie, Ni ce, 1922( 142).
Hibben, Sheila, American Regional Cookery. Copyright
1932, 1946, by Sheila Hibben. Published by little, Brown
and Company, Boston. By permission of Mcintosh ond
Otis, l nc.(150).
Holkar, Shivaji Rao and Shalini Devi, The Cooking
of the Nlohorojos. Copyright 1975 by Shivoji Roo and
Sholini Devi Holkor. Published by The Viking Press, New
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Housewright, Mrs. l. V., The Grear Green Chili Cook-
ing Classic. Edi ted by lynn B. Villella ond Patricio Gins
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Albuquerque Tribune(98).
Howe, Robin, Greek Cooking. Robin Howe 1960.
Published by Andre Deutsch limited, london. By permis-
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Jans, Hugh, Vrij Nederfonds Kookboek. Unieboek/C.
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Unieboek B.V.(116, 156).
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Junior league of Dallas, The, The Dallas Junior
League Cookbook. Copyright 1976 The Junior league of
Dallas, Inc. Published by The Junior league of Dallas, Inc.
By permission of The Junior League of Dollos(155).
Junior league of New Orleans, The, The Plantation
Cookbook. Copyright 1972 by The Junior league of
New Orleans, Inc. Published by Doubleday & Company,
Inc., New York. Reprinted by permission of Doubleday &
Company, lnc.( 132).
Junior l eague of Pasadena, The, The California
Heritage Cookbook. Copyright 1976 by The Junior
league of Posodeno, Inc. Published by Doubleday &
Company, Inc. Used by permission of Doubleday & Com-
pony, lnc.(104).
Junior league of Pine Bluff, The, Southern Accent.
Copyright 1976 by The Junior league of Pine Bluff, Inc.
Published by The Juni or League of Pine Bl uff, Inc. By per-
mission of The Junior league of Pine Bluff, Arkansas,
lnc.(164).
Junior league of Winston-Salem, The, Winston-
Salem's Heriroge of Hospitality. Copyright 1975 by The
Junior League of Winston-Salem. Published by The Junior
league of Winston-Salem. Translated by permission of The
Junior league of Winston-Salem( 150).
Kamman, Madeleine M., When French Women Cook.
Copyright 1976 by Madeleine M. Kamman. Published by
Atheneum Publishers, New York. Repri nted by permission
of Atheneum Publishers(113).
Kennedy, Diana, The Cuisines of Mexico. Copyright
1972 by Diona Kennedy. Published by Harper & Row, Pub-
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lishers, lnc. (1 46).
Kiehnle, Hermine, and Maria Hiidecke, Dos neue
Kiehnle Kochbuch. Wolter Hodecke Verlag. Published by
Wolter Hodecke Verlag. (D-7252 Weil der Stadt.) Translat-
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Krapotkin, Alexandra, The Best of Russian Cooking.
Copyright 1964 by Alexandra Kropotkin. Published by
Charles Scribner's Sons. Reprinted by permission of
Charles Scribner's Sons( 113, 120).
labarre, Irene, La Cuisine des Trois B. Solar, 1976.
Published by Solar, Paris. T ronsloted by permission of
Solar( I 53).
lamb, Venice, The Home Book of Turkish Cookery.
Venice lomb 1969, 1973. Published by Faber & Faber, ltd.,
london. By permission of Faber & Faber l td.(114, 154,
162).
larausse Treasury of Country Cooking. Copy-
right libroirie lorousse, 1968, 1975. English T ronslotion
Vineyard Books, Inc., 1975. Published by Crown Publi sh-
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Inc., New York(131).
l ~ s c o l e Parfaites des Officiers de Bouche. Anon-
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lin, Florence, Florence Lin's Chmese Regional Cookbook.
Copyright 1975 by Florence lin. Published by Hawthorn
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lnc.( 105).
McNeill, F. Marian, The Scots Kitchen. Published by
Blockie & Son limited, london. Reprinted by permission of
Blockie & Son limited(160).
Magyar, Elek, Kochbuch fur Feinschmecker. Printed in
Hungary, 1967. Published by Corvino Kiodo, Budapest.
Translated by permission of Dr. Balint Magyar and Dr. Pol
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Marton, Beryl M., Out of the Gorden into the Kirchen.
Copyright 1977 Beryl M. Morton. Published by David
McKoy Co., Inc. By permission of David McKoy Co.,
lnc.(112, 131, 132, 144).
Mathiot, Ginette, A Table avec Edouord de Pomione.
Editions Albin Michel, 1975. Published by Editions Albin
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Michel(119).
Medecin, Jacques, La Cuisine du Comte de Nice. Juil-
lord, 1972. Published by Penguin Books ltd., london.
Translated by permission of Penguin Books ltd.(102, 130,
150).
Menon, La Cuisiniere Bourgeoise. 1745( 134).
Mercier, Jean, and Irene labarre, La Cuisine du
Poitou et de fa Vendee. Solar. Published by Solar, Paris.
Translated by permission of Solor( 101, 113, 134).
Merigot, La Cuisiniere Republicoine. 1782( 117).
Montagne, Prosper, The New Lorousse Gostronomique.
English translation 1977 by Homlyn Publishing Group
limited. Published by Crown Publishers, Inc. By permission
of Crown Publishers, lnc.(107).
Montagne, Prosper, and A. Gottschalk, Man
Menu - Guide d'Hygiene Alimentoire. Published by Societe
d' Applications Scientiliques, Pari s( 115, 122).
Moore-Betty, Maurice, Cooking for Occasions. Copy-
right 1970 by Maurice Moore-Betty. Published by David
White, Inc. Reprinted by permission of David White,
lnc.(102, 143).
Moyer, Anne, The Green Thumb Cookbook. 1977 by
Rodole Press. Published by Rodole Press. Used by permis-
sion of Rodole Press, Inc., Emmaus, Pennsylvonio(99).
Muffoletto, Anna, The Art of Sicilian Cooking. Copy-
right 1971 by Anno Muffoletto. Publi shed by Doubleday
& Company, Inc., New York. By permission of Doubleday
& Company, lnc.(135, 139).
Nignon, Edouard, Les Ploisirs de fa Table. Published by
author c. 1920. Translated by permi ssion of Daniel Mor-
crette, B.P. 26,95270, Luzorches, France( 1 03).
Oliver, Raymond, La Cuisine - so technique, ses se-
crets. Publi shed by Editions Bordas, Paris. Translated by
permission of Leon Amiel Publishers, New York(118).
Olney, Judith, Summer Food. Copyright 1978 by Ju-
dith Olney. Published by Atheneum Publishers, New York.
By permission of Atheneum Publishers(97, 127, 160).
Olney, Richard, Simple French Food. Copyright 1974
by Richard Olney. Published by Atheneum Publishers, New
York. By permission of Atheneum and A M. Heath &
Company, Author's Agents(137, 148, 152, 164).
Orga, lrfan, Cooking with Yogurt. First published 1956
by Andre Deutsch limited, London. By permission of Andre
Deutsch limited(106, 139, 151).
Ortiz, Elisabeth lambert, The Complete Book of
Caribbean Cooking. Copyright Elisabeth Lambert Ortiz,
1973, 1975. Published by M. Evans and Company, Inc. By
permission of John Farquharson limited( 140, 144).
Owen, Sri, The Home Book of Indonesian Cookery. Sri
Owen, 1976. Published by Faber & Faber ltd., London. By
permission of Faber & Faber ltd.(160).
Paddl eford, Clementine, The Best in American Cook-
175
ing. Copyright 1970 Chose Monhotton Bonk, executors
of the Estate of Clementine Poddleford. Published by
Charles Scribner's Sons. Reprinted by permission of
Charles Scribner's Sons(123, 125).
Palay, Simin, Lo Cuisine du Pays. 1970 Morrimpouey
Jeune-Pou. Published by tditions Morrimpouey Jeune et
Cie. Translated by permission of tditions Morrimpouey
Jeune et Cie.(123).
Pearl, Mary, Vermont Maple Recipes. Published by Mary
Pearl. Used by permission of Mary Peorl(124).
Peck, Paula, Paulo Peck's Art of Good Cooking. 1966
by Paulo Peck. Published by Simon & Schuster, o Division
of Gulf & Western Corporation. By permission of Simon &
Schuster( 135).
Penton, Anne-Marie, Customs and Cookery in the Peri-
gord and Quercy. Anne-Marie Penton 1973. Published
by David and Charles (Holdings) limited, Newton Abbot.
By permission of Anne-Marie Penton(129, 146).
Petits Propos Culinaires, 1979 by Prospect Books.
Published by Prospect Books, Washington, D.C. By per-
mission of Prospect Books(138).
Philippon, Henri, Cuisine de Provence. tditions Albin
Michel, 1977. Published by tditions Albin Michel, Paris.
Translated by permission of editions Albin Michel( I 52).
Point, Fernard, Mo Gostronomie. Flommorion. English
language edition 1974, lyceum Books, Inc. Published by
lyceum Books, Inc., Wilton, Connecticut. By permission of
lyceum Books(121) .
Quillet, Aristide, Lo Cuisine Moderne. Copyright li-
broire Aristide Quillet, 1946. Published by libroire Aristide
Quillet. Translated by permission of libroire Aristide
Quillet(128).
Reboul, J. B., Lo Cuisiniere Published by To-
cussel, Marseilles. Translated by permission of Tocussel,
tditeurj158).
Ross, Janet, and Michael Waterfield, Leaves from
our Tuscan Kitchen. Michael Waterfield, 1973. Published
by Atheneum Publishers, New York. By permission of Athe-
neum Publishers(96, 134, 147, 153).
Acknowledgments
The indexes for this book were prepared by Anita R.
Beckerman. The editors ore particularly indebted to
Pot Alburey, Hertfordshire, England; Elaine Asp,
Deportment of Food Science and Nutrition, University of
Minnesota, St. Paul; Jeremiah Tower, Berkeley, California;
and Dr. Ronald Smith, Aberdeen, Scotland.
The editors also wish to thank: Dr. Victor R. Boswell,
Hyattsville, Maryland; California Tobie Grope
Commission, Fresno; Koren Coplon, Frieda's Finest
Picture Credits
The sources for the pictures in this book ore listed below.
Credits for each of the photographers and illustrators ore
listed by page number in sequence with successive pages
indicated by hyphens; where necessary, the locations of
pictures within pages ore olso indicated - separated from
page numbers by dashes.
Photographs by Alan Duns: cover, 4, 9 - left and center,
13 - top right, bottom left and center, 15- bottom left,
17 - bottom, 21 - bottom, 23 - top right and bottom,
25 -center and bottom, 36, 43 - top ond center, 46-47,
50, 52 - top, 53 - top and right, 55-60, 62-63 - bottom,
176
Rundell, Mrs. Maria, Domestic Cookery. 1837
Edition(103).
Saint-Ange, Madame, Lo Bonne Cuisine de Madame
Soint-Ange. Copyright 1929 by Auge, Gillon, Hollier-
lorousse, Moreau et Cie. (Libroirie lorousse), Paris. Pub-
lished by Libroirie lorousse, Paris. T ronsloted by permis-
sion of tditions Choix(96, 114).
Schwam, Florence, (Editor), Vegetable Cooking of
All Notions. 1973 by Crown Publishers, Inc. Published by
Crown Publishers, Inc. Used by permission of Crown Pub-
lishers, Inc.( 133).
Seddon, George, and Helena Radecka, Your Kitch-
en Gorden. Michael Beazley Publishers limited, 1975.
Publi shed by Doubleday & Company, Inc., New York. By
permission of Michael Beazley Publishers, limited(108,
151, 157).
Serra, Victoria, translated by Elizabeth Gili, Tio
Victoria's Spanish Kitchen. Text Copyright Elizabeth Gili,
1963. Published by Kaye & Word Ltd., london. By permis-
sion of Kaye & Word Ltd. and Elizabeth Gili (lll, 123).
Singh, Dharamjit, Indian Cookery. Dhoromjit Singh,
1970. Published by Penguin Books Ltd., london. By per-
mission of Penguin Books Ltd. (1 09, 130).
Stone, Marie, The Covent Gorden Cookbook. Copyright
1974 by Marie Stone. Publi shed by Allison & Busby,
limited, london. Reprinted by permission of Allison & Bus-
by limited(96, 133).
Stubbs, Joyce M., The Home Book of Greek Cookery.
1963 Joyce M. Stubbs. Published by Faber & Faber, Lon-
don. By permission of Faber & Fober(lOl).
Taber, Gladys, My Own Cook Boob From Stillmeodow
and Cope Cod. Copyright 1972 by Gladys Tober. Pub-
lished by J. B. lippincott Company. Reprinted by permi s-
sion of J. B. lippincott Compony(121).
Troisgros, Jean and Pierre, The Nouvelle Cuisine of
Jean & Pierre T roisgros. Copyright 1978 in the English
translation by William Morrow & Company, Inc. Originally
published under the title of Cuisiniers a Roonne, copyright
1977 by tditions Robert loffonl S. A. By permission of Wil-
liam Morrow & Company, Inc.( I 59).
Produce Specialties, Inc., los Angeles, California; Dr.
Cl yde M. Christianson, Deportment of Horticulture,
University of Minnesota, St. Paul; R. C. Coates, london;
Dr. 0. B. Combs, Deportment of Horticulture, University of
Wisconsin, Madison; Sue Crowther, london; Audrey
Ellison, london; Mary S. Goddard, Nutrient Dote Research
Group, Hyattsville, Maryland; Diona Grant, london;
Victoria Hoinworth, Dumpfriesshire, Scotland; Maggie
Heinz, london; les Hubbard, Western Growers
Association, Newport Beach, California; Marion Hunter,
Surrey, England; Brenda Joyes, london; Dr. Janet
Johnson, Deportment of Horticulture, Virginia Polytechnic
Insti tute and State University, Blocksburg; Dr. W. Raymond
Keys, Deportment of Horticulture, University of Oklahoma,
Stillwater; Dr. Stanley Koys, Deportment of Horticulture,
University of Georgia, Athens; John leslie, london; Fronk
64-65- top, 68 - top and bottom center, 69 - top, 70-74,
77 - top, 79-82, 83 - bottom, 84-89.
Photographs by Aida Tutino: 11 - bottom, 13- bottom
right, 17 - lop center and right, 19 - top, 24, 29-33, 39-40,
51, 52 - bottom, 53 - bottom left , 66, 76, 78, 83 - top,
92-94.
Photographs by Tom Belshaw: 9-right, 13 - top left and
center, 17-top left, 21 - top and center, 27- bottom, 38,
42, 43 - bottom, 44-45, 48, 54, 64-65-bottom, 68 -
bottom left, 69 - bottom, 77 - bottom.
Other photographs (olphobeticolly): Bob Cramp, 62-63 -
top, 68 - bottom right, 90-91. Paul Kemp, 23 - top left and
center. Roger Phillips, IS-bottom center and right, 67.
Illustrations (olphobeticolly) : Mary Evans Picture Library
Turgeon, Charlotte, Of Cabbages and Kings Cook-
book. 1977 The Curtis Publishing Company. Publi shed
by The Curtis Publishing Company. Reprinted by permis-
sion of The Curtis Publishing Compony(98).
Ungerer, Miriam, Good Cheap Food. Copyright 1966
by Miriam Ungerer. Published by The Viking Press, Inc. By
permission of The Viking Press(l07, 141 ).
Uvezian, Sonia, The Best Foods of Russia. Copyright
1976 by Sonia Uvezion. Published by Harcourt Broce Jo-
vanovich, Inc., New York. Reprinted by permission of Har-
court Broce Jovanovi ch, Inc. ( 117, 129).
Uvezian, Sonia, The Book of Yogurt. Copyright 1978
by Sonia Uvezion. Published by I 01 Productions. Reprinted
by permission of 101 Productions(145).
Voltz, Jeanne A., The Flavor of the South. Copyright
1977 by Jeanne A. Voltz. Reprinted by permission of Dou-
bleday & Company, lnc. (131).
Wason, Betty, The Art of German Cooking. 1967 by
Elizabeth Wason Hall. Published by Doubleday & Com-
pony, Inc., New York. Used by permission of Doubleday &
Company, lnc.(130).
White, Mrs. Peter A. , The Kentucky Housewife. 1885,
Bellford, Clarke and Company, Chicago and New
York(116, 124).
Widenfelt, Sam, (Editor), Swedish Food. Published by
Wezoto Forlog, Sweden. Translated by permission of
Wezoto Forlog(109).
Willinsky, Grete, Kochbuch der Biichergilde. Bi.icher-
gilde Gutenberg, Frankfurt om Main. Published by Bi.icher-
gilde Gutenberg. T ronsloted by permission of Bi.ichergilde
Gutenberg(136).
Wilson, Mrs. W. H., and Miss Mollie Huggins,
Good Things to Eat. Published by the Publishing House of
theM. E. Church, South, Nashville, Tennessee, 1909(135).
Wolfert, Paula, Mediterranean Cooking. Copyright
1977 by Paulo Wolfert. Published by Quadrangle/The
New York Times Book Co., Inc., New York. By permission
of Paulo Wolfert and Quadrangle/The New York Times
Book Co., lnc. (l42).
J. McNeil, Standardization Branch, U.S. Deportment of
Agriculture, Washington, D.C.; Notional Vegetable
Research Station, london; Professor Jean A. Phillips,
Deportment of Human Nutrition and Foods, Virginia
Polytechnic Institute and Stole University, Blocksburg; Jose
Sanchez, Manuel Rodriguez, Ivana Greengrocers, London;
Nicole Segre, London; Mr. lloyd Stolich, California
Artichoke Advisory Boord, Castroville; Marguerite Torrent,
London; Liz Timothy, london; J. M. T urnell & Co., New
Covent Gorden, England; Eileen Turner, london; United
Fresh Fruits and Vegetable Association, Alexandria,
Virginia; Hilary Wolden, london; Robert A. Weorne,
Eugene, Oregon; Dr. Raymond E. Webb, Dr. James P. Son
Antonio, Vegetable laboratory, Beltsville Agricultural
Research Center, U.S. Deportment of Agriculture,
Beltsville, Maryland.
ond private sources, 97-164. Basil Smith, 26-27 - top, 2B.
Whole Hog Studios, Atlonlo, Georgia, 8, 10-11 - top, 12,
14, 15- top, 16, 18-19- bottom, 20, 22, 25 - top.
Library of Congress Cataloguing in Publication Dora
Time-life Books.
Vegetables.
(The Good cook, technoques and recipes)
Includes index.
1. Cookery (Vegetables) I Title. II. Series.
TX801.T55. 1979 641.6'5 78-26177
ISBN 0-8094-2860-1
ISBN 0-8094-2859-81ib. bdg.
ISBN 0-8094-2858-X retail ed.
Printed in U.S.A.
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