Professional Documents
Culture Documents
costs
The cutting room has a greater effect on
excessive manufacturing costs than any
other department concerned with the
actual production of garments.
• Internal costs – those incurred in the
cutting room itself.
• External costs – those incurred by other
departments as a result of the
malfunctions of the cutting room.
Internal costs
• Labour : Effective utilisation
• Efficiency
Pattern accuracy Marker waste Spreading waste
• Planning
• Spreading
• Cutting
• Preparation for sewing
Production process in the Cutting Room
Spreads
Markers
Planning
Production
Manual
Spreading
Machine
Machine
Die Press
Cutting
Computer
Shade marking
Preparation
for sewing Ticketing
Bundles
Cut order planning
• It translates customer orders into cutting
orders.
• It is the process that coordinates customer
orders with all the variables of marker
making, spreading, and cutting to
minimize total production costs and meet
customer demand for timely products.
• It seeks most effective use of labor,
equipment, fabric and space.
Responsibilities of Cut Order
Planning
• Examining incoming orders and piece goods
width and availability
• Determining volume, size ratios, and sectioning
procedures for marker making
• Determining whether file markers are available
or new ones are needed
• Developing specifications for optimum marker
making and fabric utilization
• Determine most effective use of spreading and
cutting equipment and personnel
• Issuing orders for marker making, spreading and
cutting
Most common considerations
• Number of sizes in order
• Number of colors in order
• Max/min number of sizes allowed in marker
• Maximum spread length
• Maximum ply height
• Percentage of overcut or undercut units
• Fabric cost per yard
• Usable cloth width
• Width variation
• Common lines among pattern pieces
• Costs of marking markers, spreading, cutting, bundling
• Fabric roll change time
Results of
Cut Order Planning
Cutting Orders
Leads to
• Minimum waste
Factors effecting marker efficiency
• Fabric characteristics
• Characteristics of Pattern pieces
splitting pattern pieces and creating a seam ,
reducing seam allowances, hemwidth, adjusting
and modifying grainline, etc
• Grain Orientation
• Fabric utilization standards – 90 to 97% which
lead to 80 -85% achievement
Plotting
F/O/W
N/O/W
F/F
N/O/W
F/F
N/U/D
F/O/W
N/U/D
Requirements of Spreading
process
• Shade sorting of cloth pieces
• Correct ply direction and adequate lay stability
• Allignment of plies
• Correct ply tension
• Elimination of fabric faults
• Elimination of static electricity
• Avoidance of distortion in the spread
• Avoidance of fusion of plies during cutting
Setup for spreading
• Verifying cutting orders
• Positioning materials
• Preparing cutting tables
• Preparing machines
• Loading machine
Reloading and delay time may use upto 70% of
the time required for the entire spreading
operation.
Methods of spreading
• Spreading by hand
• Spreading using a travelling machine
(100 to 150 yards per minute)