w The lt-lew l Larous se G as tronomique

Prefaces
by Auguste Eseofrer and Phtl6as Gllbert to the or{gtnal edltion of to

Larousse Gastronomique
Publishers' note note Publishers' Escffier died before the edition o/ Larousse Gastronomique Gastronomique was first edition of Larousse Escoffier died before the first published in great,king IgJg; the of cooks and the cook of of kings' kings, wrote wrote puhlished in 1938; the great 'king of cooks and the cook preface his phitias after readhg the draft of the manusuipt. his reading the first draft of the Phila.s Gilbert laler later saw saw the the complete work work and and added added a a supplementary supplementary preface. preface. Gilbert

raw raw fish fish and and the the still still pulsating flesh flesh of of animals animais killed kiHed with with the the spear. spear. It is this history that is the subject of Larowse inwhich It is this that is the of Larousse Gastronomtqtrc, Ga.stronomique, in which Prosper Montagn6 has outlined .pages all thousandpages aH the the improvements improvements brought brought to to the the culinary art art from outlined in in some sorne thousand prehlstoric times to the present day. Presented in the form of a dictionary, it sums up all that has "", .u.",~,","'''''' times to the Presented in the form of a dictionary, it aH that has been achieved by the science of alimentation, and everything in it has been minutely studied and and in it has been studied and been achieved described. described. Those Those who who make make a a profession pr()te~;Slcm of gastronomy will will find find in in this this book book matter matter for for comparison between what used to be the art of good eating and what it is today. Housewives will be particularly between what used to he the art of Housewives win be interested in the evolution of the table through the ages, its refinements modified in each epoch*to a nterested in the evolution of the table the ages, its refinements modified in each a certain extent by the exigencies of reigning fashions. hofessional cooks, both men and women, will the of """F.~J fashions. Professional both men and women, w11 certain extent be HA~~!-,M~~ of of a a culinary technique founded founded on on the the universally llnIV"""C::~ be able able to to draw draw inspiration from the principles recognized knowledge and authority of the author. The text of the book and the recipes are enlivened are enlivened of the author. The text of the book and the by and legendary .'"'/5,""' .......... tales. by attractive attractive anecdotes anecdotes and tlVhile waiting to read them in print, I went through the While to read them in the innumerable innumerable manuscript pages pages of of this this encyclopedia and I am still under the spell cast by this work. How could it have been completed so this work. How could it have been so cm;ycloptoolla and 1 am still under the rapidly? For For the the author author had had only one one collaborator, albeit albeit an an eminent eminent one, one. who who was was entrusted entrusted with with all aH scientific scientific and and medical medical subjects, and and the the material material was was prepared in in less less than than three three yearsi. years. Iarotuse Gastronomique is a model of exactitude precision and in Larousse Gastronomique is a model of exactitude and in all an that that concerns concerns the the etymology of ofcertain certainwords, the thedefinition definition of ofculinary terms, terms, the theorigin of offoods foods in in everyday use useand and the the many many recipes for each grven dish. dish.
..UJIF.

changes in the order and serving of meals from century to century, to describe comment on the ...., .........b'~'" in the order and of meals from to to describe and comment progress of the French cuisine, is to paint a picture of the many stages through which progress of the French is to a of the which a a nation has evolved since the distant times when, as a weak tribe, men lived in dark caves, eating wild roots, has ev01ved since the distant times when, as a weak tribe, men lived caves, fOOts,

The history of of the the table of a a nation nation is is a a reflection of the the cvilization civilization of of that nation. nation. To To show show the The table of reflection of

Symbols ofplenty (phot. and wine, meat and eggs Sym bols of p!enl y bread and wme. meal and cggs (Phal. Nicotasl Nico/as) - -bread

and there are some very attractive Numerous descriptive photographs illustrate illustratecertain certain subjects, subjects, and there are sorne very attractive plates show finished dishes with their reproductions of antique engravings. Magnificent colour show tinished dishes with their col our appropriate garnishes. were well aware of this, had not Such work would would have have been been incomplete, and and the the authors authors were well aware of this, had not Such a a work vineyards. The greatest of these, considerable considerable space spacebeen beenreserved reserved for for the the riches riches of ofour ourfamous famous French French vineyards. The greatest of these, classified, are shown together ~V!,~"'~.""'l in in explicit tables. tables. some gastronomes of great renown of Finally, the biographies of certain certain maitres matres de de cuisine cuisine and and sorne gastronomes of great renown gastronomical bibliography mentions a are are for for ever ever immortalized immortalized in in these these pages, pages, and and a a culinary culinary and and gastronomical bibliography mentions a to the bibliophiles. great great number number of of works, some some of of which which are are perhaps perhaps unknown unknown to the bibliophiles. will find that Prosper Montagn6's All AH those those who who make make a a cult cult of of good eating and and good drinking drinking will find that Prosper Montagn's with interest and one that will have a Larousse Larousse Gastronomique Gastronomique isindeed is indeed a a work work that that they they will will consult consult with interest and one that will have a merited and just reward, which I prominent place in And this this will wll be be the the author's author's merited and just reward, which 1 in their their library. library. And heartily applaud. Auguste Escoffier Auguste Escoffier

read the first draft of the after having formed after opinion he the opinion outlined the his preface, Escoffier outlined In his ln he formed having read the tirst draft of the completed' Being in a and revised later considerably revised was later Thismanuscript Gastronomique. This Lqousse Gastronomique. and in a Larousse manuscript was these final pages that my judgment was of these study of the study on the was on it was he, it position than than he, favourable positon more favourable more final pages that my was founded because I have been able to see better founded the better is ait all the and is Escoffier and of Escoffier that of with that conforms with it conforms because 1 have been able to see based; it he predicted. what he for myself what Predicted. for prosper Montagnd, realized that he had undertaken a formidable of Prosper friends of I, old otd friends and Escoffier and l, Montagn, reaHzed that he had undertaken a formidable Escoffier understand the importance, but knowing can understand works can of culinary works authors of the authors only the which only of which one of task, one task, the but extensive erudition and his professional his extensive willpower, inflexible will his inflexible and his work and for work his capacity for his power, his erudition and his professional great cooks of our time, we were certain that he place among among great first place the first in the him in which puts him knowledge, which knowledge, cooks of our we were certain that he conclusion' successful a to it bring it to a successful conclusion. would bring would food or who are interested with food do with to do anything to have anything who have those who all those to ail is to it is wrote, it Escoffier wrote, As Escoffier As or who are interested addressed. It is-dare say it-the is addressed. book s this book that this table, that the table, and the cuisineand the cuisine of the history of in the the history in It is-dare 1 say it-the of Prosper Montagnd. work of the professional work of the apotheosis of apotheosis vade-mecum for everyone' a reliable is-a vade-mecum it already is-a mustbecome-and Gastrinomiquemust Larousse Gastronomique Larousse become--and it for everyone, a reliable what subject connected with the matter what no matter onno and on momentand anymoment atany consulted at to be beconsulted ready to counsellor rcady subject connected with the counsellor table' thetable. ofthe artsof thearts and the sciencesand alimentary sciences alimentary effort may find its reward and perseveringeffort suchaa magnificent and thatsuch heartily that wish heartily Like Escoffier,l Iwish may find its reward Like deserves from any point it which welcome a conceived, it was whom for those of welcome the in in the welcome of those for whom t was /"1"",,/""'1\,,"'''' a welcome which il deserves from any ofview. of Phil6as Gilbert Philas Gilbert

view'

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LAROUSSE
GASIil}K(EN@NilHruffiTE MI T
THE ENCYCLOPEDIA EE PE lA OF FO FOOD, WINE \TINE OF
&

THE NEW

& COOKERY OOKERY

7fontagni by Prosper J\!(ontagn

AMERICAN AMERICAN EDITOR, EDITOR: CT{ARLOTTE CHARLOTTE TURGEON TURGEON

PREFACE ROBERT J. COURTTNE PREFACE BY BY ROBERT]. COURTINE

oRrcrNAL ORIGINAL pREFACEs PREFACES By BY AucusrE AUGUSTE EscoFFrER ESCOFFIER AND pmldns PHILAS GTLBERT GILBERT
TEXT THE FRENCH TEXT TRANSLATED TRANSLATED FROM THE FRENCH BY MARION MARION HUNTER HUNTER M.I.L. M.LL.

too o 1000

ations 1 Jllustr ncluding Jllustrations Jncluding

7[any Many in Jull '}=ull Color

T YORK CRO\TN INC. CROWN PUBLISHERS, PUBLIS E IN . NE NEW

Prosper Montagn6 Montagn by Prosper Originally published published under under the the title N ouv e au Lar ou s s e G astronomique Nouveau Larousse Gastronomique
American Charlotte Turgeon American Editor Editor:: Charlotte

Hamlyn Publishing Group Limited Copyright English text The Hamlyn Copyright Limited 1977 @

CopyrightLibrairieLarousse, Librairie Larousse, Paris 19. 1960 @ Copyright

All AU rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or utilized in

including photocopymechanical, including any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, photocopyretrieval system,without storage and retrieval ing, recording, or by any information system, without inlormation storage permission permission in writing lrorn from the Publisher. Inquiries Inquiries should be addressed to inwriting New York, N.Y. 10016. Crown Publishers, Inc., One Park Avenue, New Publishers,Inc.,
Printed in the U.S.A. Printed U.S.A. Company Limited Published simultaneously Publishing Company simultaneously in Canada Canada by General Publishing
C ongr es s Cataloging C atalo ging in Publication Library of Congress Publication Data Library

Main entry under under title:

gastronomique. Larousse gastronomique. The New Larousse gastronomique. Translation of Nouveau Translation Nouveau Larousse gastronomique. published under Larousse 1961, by under title: title: Larousse Ed. for for 1961, by P. P. Montagn, Montagnd, published Ed. gastronomique. gastronomique. 1. Cookery-Dictionaries-French. 2. Food-Dictionaries1. 2. Food-DictionariesFrench. 3. 3. Cookery, Cookery, French. French. 1. I. Dunbar, Dunbar, Janet. Janet. Il. II. Montagn, Montagnd, Prosper, French. gastronomique. 1 865- 1948. Larousse gastronomique. 1865-1948. TX349.M613 1977 1977 641'.03 641'.O3 77-9905 TX349.M613 0-517-53 137-2 ISBN 0-517-53137-2

Preface
In his preface to first edition of Larousse In to the the first Gas tr onomique Escoffier wrote: wrote : Gastronomique 'The history history of 'The of a nation's table is a reflection of the civilisation the civilisation of of that nation. To To show that nation. show the changes changes in the order and serving of meals from century to century, to describe and comment on the progress of the French cuisine, is is to paint a picture many stages picture of the the many stages through through which which a nation has evolved since the distant times when, as a a weak tribe, men lived in dark caves, eating as wild roots, raw fish and the still pulsating flesh of animals killed animaIs kiUed with the spear. 'It is this history that is the subject 'It of Larousse subjectof Montagn6 has Gastronomique, in which Prosper Montagn pages aH some thousand outlined in sorne thousand pages all the improvements from preart from brought to to the the culinary art ments brought historic times to the historic th present day. Presented in the of a dictionary, dictionary, it sums up aIl form of all that has been achieved by by the achieved the science science of of alimentation, alimentation, and everything in it it has has been been minutely studied and
described. 'Those 'Those who make a profession of gastronomy
has rediscovered redscovered endorse them -- the - in order to endorse broad ancient practice, somewhat broad outlines outlines of ancient somewhat forgotten since the beginning forgotten beginning of of this century. It It is essential to incorporate into this work work the lessons essential learnt from a combination from a combination of ancient wisdom and modern research. Legislation, as has modified modified the weH, has as well, the basic nutrition of twentieth-century twentieth-century man, and if if the man, and gourmet can still, with justification, reject certain gourmet progress, he must forms of must nevertheless take forms of progress, note of them. them. Moreover, taking his pleasures of the table where he can find thern, he has to recogrocognise, for for instance, instance, that freezing or freezenise, that deep deep freezing drying (words which wre were unknown to Prosper Montagn6 and his contemporaries) offer to the Montagn and as well as to appetite as weIl as to the the greed greed of man man many satisfying satisfying solutions. solutions. The laws pertaining to vines have The laws wine and to wine and vines wine scene the wine in France. altered the considerably altered scene in Chefs in general are little Httle interested n in wine, and this is doubtless whyhitherto why hitherto Larotnse Larousse Gastronomique has neglected I ne~~ectea the cellar. My friends and 1 have made a better selection from French wines and those from other countries, countries, bearing bearing in mind the latest rules and regulations. Jean Desmur, who may deserve thetitle'Pic the-title 'Pic de La Mirandole de la la gastronomie', took La Mirandole de took upon duty himself the the dut y of recounting the details of the details gastronomical folklore, domestic history and and gastronomical domestic history date with what and because hecause one must be he up to to date one loves, we Est list the food and wine associations which have have multiplied multiplied since the last war. All this rounds out the original work without AH changing the direction or the balance. This either changing either profound wish. least our profound at is a t least It remains for me to introduce and thank the contributors of this new edtion: contributors edition: Madeleine Decure, director of the the publication et vins Cuisine el Cuisine vins de France Jean D. Jean D. Arnaboldi, Arnaboldi, chief editor editor of the the publication ca tion Bien Bien Vivre Frangoise d'Athis, general secretary of of the the Revue du vin de France of I'Acad6mie Rabelais Henry Clos-Jouve, ofl'Acadmie Jean Desmur Robert J. Courtine Courtine Pierre Neuville Neuville

will find find in this book for comparison will in this book matter matter for between what used used to be the art of good eating what it and what it is will be and is today. today. Housewives Housewives will particularly interested interested in in the the evolution of of the table through through the ages, ages, its refinements modified in in each each epoch to a extent by by the a certain certain extent - to reigning fashions. exigencies of of reigning exigencies fashions. Professional Professional cooks, both both men men and women, will be able to draw principles of inspiration from of a a culinary from the the principles technique founded on the universally recognised technique recognsed knowledge and authority of of the author. The rest of the book and and the the recipes are are enlivened enlivened by attractive anecdotes anecdotes and legendary legendary tales.' work of Prosper Montagn6 The work Montagn (and of Dr. Gottschalk, who who helped him Gottschalk, him notably with with the historical, scien tific and medical scientific medical material) is an historic work which it 1S is proper to revive today, historic adding new gastronomic while retaining its SLflDD()IDIC treats white style and and balance. Indeed, if if the the history of domestic cooking, which is inseparable inseparable from the domestc history of the people, hasn't changed and if the great recipes remain remain the same despite despite the great the same tremendous simplification of modern modern cooking, tremendous on the other other hand dietetics is a new science which

Table of of Comparative Comparative Measures Measrrres Table

Note Note Published for throughout the for use use throughout the world, world, this this edition edition of of LAROUSSE Published LAROUSSE GASTRONOMIQUE contains contains American American and and British British equivalents GASTRONOMIQUE equivalents as as well as as original original French French measurements measurements in in aIl all recipes. recipes. Occasionally weIl Occasionally what what appears to to be be a a discrepancy discrepancy in in conversion conversion may may occur. occur. In appears In fact fact this this results results from proportionate proportionate alteration quantities throughout alteration of of quantities throughout that that recipe from recipe in in order to to avoid avoid awkward awkward fractions in measurements. measurements. fractions in order The cups cups and quoted, together and tablespoons tablespoons quoted, together with The with the the French French measures, measures, in this this book book are are American American Standard, standard, which which are in slightly smaller are slightly smaller in in capacity than than British British Standard standard cups cups and capacity and spoons. spoons. The The American American and and Canadian Standard pint measuring Standard -!Canadian measuring cup cup has has a capacity of a capacity of 8 8 fluid fluid * pint ounces; the the British British Standard Standard Imperial pint measuring ounces; Imperial -!measuring cup cup has has a a ] pint e'apacity of 10 fluid of 10 fluid ounces. capacity ounces. The The American American and and Canadian canadian Standard Standard measuring tablespoon tablespoon measures measures i$ fluid measuring fluid ounce; ounce; the the British British Standard Standard tablespoon measures measures 1 tablespoon I fluid fluid ounce. ounce. 3 teaspoons are 3 teaspoons are equal equal to to 1 I tabletablespoon. All measureme measutrmrlttr ts refer refer to to LEVEL LEVEL spoons spoons and and cups. cups.

LIQUID LIQIJID MEASURES MEASTJRES French 1 I litre

1

British British

American American 4i 4| cups cups or 1 quart 2 ounces orlquart2ounces 2 (generous) 2 cups cups (generous) or pint (generous) (generous) or 1 1 pint

li lf pints
pint iI pi nt (generous)
3-4 3-4 ounces

I demilitre (-!1 $ litre)

($ 1 tre ( -il> litre) I decili decilitre

1(scant) cup (seant) * cup

or pint (seant) (scant) or iI pint

WEIGHT WBIGHT French

1

British and and American .035 .035 ounce -1 I ounce ounce 3-!3| ounces 4 ounces ounces (approx.) 8 ounces ounces 8 1 pound pound 1-!I 1| ounces ounces (approx.) 221 pounds 2'21

1 I gram
1

2835 28.35 grams

100 grams

114 14 grams I 226 78 grams 226'78 500 grams 500 1 kilogram kilogram I

APPROXlMATE EQUTVALENTS EQUIVALENTS FOR FOR BASIC BASIC FOODS FoonS APPROXTMATE
French

British British

American

Almonds, blanched, bJanched, whole whole Almonds, powder Baking powder

150 grams

5| 5t ounces ounces

4.3 43 grams
30 grams

I teaspoon 1 (approx.) I ounce 1 ounce

3L 3! ounces

I 1 cup I 1 teaspoon
2] 21 tablespoons
(approx.)

Breadcrumbs, dry Breadcrumbs,

"
Butter

,,

fresh fresh

90 grams 45 grams
15 grams 125 grams 500 grams 500 grams

r+ 1t ouncs ounces

I 1 cup I 1 cup
I 1 tablespoon tablespoon 1- cup *
2 cups
I pound 1 (generous) (generous) (scant) I 1 cup (seant)

1 ounce ounce {

4 ounces I 1 pound (generous) (generous)

Cheese Cheese

), "

(grated Parmesan) Parmesan)

100 grams 85 grams 10 l0 grams 3-4 grams

1

I pound 1 (generous) (generous) (scant) 4 ounces (seant)

3 ounces

Coffee, medium ground

I 1 cup
I tablespoon 1 tablespoon I teaspoon 1

--

(cornflour) Cornstarch (cornflour)

Cream of tartar

Fish Flour (unsifted, ail all purpose)

500 grams
1

t ounce $ ounce ounce l $ ounce I pound 1

(generous) (generous) I -ft 1 ft ounces 2$ 2~ ounces 4f ounces 4! I pound 1 (generous) (generous) I ounce 1 (generous) (generous) 2$ 2! ounces 4| ounces 41

I pound 1 (generous) (generous)

35 grams 70 grams grams 142 142 grams 500 grams 32 grams

60 grams 128 grams 128

t * cup t cup * I cup 1 t

cup

3| cups 3t

,, " ,, "

(sifted, ail all purpose)

t * cup

(sifted cake (sifted cake and and pastry flour)

I cup 1

30 grams 60 grams 120 120 grams 500 grams 500 grams 6 medium size leaves 150 grams 150 500 grams
grams 226 226 grams
15 grams 15

I ounce 1 2 ounces 4 ounces

I pound 1 (generous) (generous) 1 pound (generous) (generous) I ounce 1
5$ ounces 51

Fruit (fresh)

t cup * 1* cup I cup 1 I pound 1

(generous) (generous) 2 cups

,, "

(dried)

Gelatine (leaf sheets)

2 tablespoons

,, "
Meats

(granulated) (granulated)

I cup 1
1 pound 1 (generous) (generous) I cup 1

,, (diced) " Mustard (dry)

1 pound (generous) (generous) 8 ounces 8

t I ounce

2 tablespoons

French French Pepper (whole (whole white) white) Pepper grams 30 grams 30 grams 30 grams 30 grams 30 grams 30 grams 12 grams 12 grams 200 grams 200 grams l0 grams 10 grams 160 grams 160 grams 500 grams 500 grams 240 grams 240 grams 15 grams 15 grams 2| grams 2t grams 15 grams 15 grams 5 grams 5 grams 15 grams 15 grams 60 grams 60 grams 240 grams 240 grams 34 grams 34 grams 68 grams 68 140 grams 140 grams 35 grams 35

British British
ounce 1I ounce (generous) (generous) I ounce ounce 1 (generous) (generous) I ounce ounce 1 (generous) (generous)

American American

3ftablespoons tablespoons 3i

,, ,, "
"

(whole black) (who le black)

(powdered) (powdered)

4|tablespoons tablespoons 4t
tablespoons 44tablespoons tablespoon 1 tablespoon 1 cup cup 1 tablespoon tablespoon 1 cup cup 3 cups cups

(seeded) Raisins (seeded) Raisins

"

,,

(seedless) (seedless)

lounce $ ounce 6$ ounces ounces 61 ounce l$ ounce 5$ ounces ounces 51 pound I pound 1
8 ounces ***t 8
ounce tI ounce

Rice Rice Salt Salt

1 cup cup 1 I tablespoon tablespoon 1 I teaspoon teaspoon 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons 1 I teaspoon teaspoon 1 I tablespoon tablespoon !* cup cup 1 I cup cup !* cup cup tt cup cup 1 I cup cup !* cup cup tl cup cup 1 I cup cup 1 I tablespoon tablespoon t* cup cup 1 cup I cup 1 pound I pound (generous) (generous) 2 2 cups cups

(ground) Spices (ground) Spices

(fine granulated) granulated) Sugar (fine Sugar

ounce -Px $ ounce ounce tI ounce

ounce tI ounce 2 ounces 2 ounces 8 8 ounces ounces 1 I ounce ounce (generous) (generous) 2, 2f ounces ounces 4~ 4$ ounces ounces 1 I ounce ounce (generous) (generous) 2; 2f ounces ounces 14; 4f ounces i$ ounce ounce 2i 2$ ounces 5t 5$ ounces ounce l$ ounce

"

,,

(powdered)

,, " ,, "

(confectioner's or icing)

(brown)

70 grams 140 grams 10 l0 grams 80 grams 160 grams 500 grams 500 grams

Vegetables (fresh)

"

(dried: Ientils lentils or split

peas) peas)

1 I pound (generous) (generous) 1 I pound (generous) (generous)

H
ABAISSE - A tenu pastry-making to describe ABAISSE-A term used in French French pastry-making (or sheet) a piece sheet) of pastry. It is also used to a piece (or of rolled-out pastry. It is also used alayer describe a layer of sponge cake or biscuit. ofsponge
a handful may be or, better still, a be substituted for the sage or, handful of an orange. orange. Bay leaves are rosemary boiled boiled with the skin with the skin of an (le Minagier good.' (le fourteenth century) Mnagier de Paris, fourteenth also good.'

c,{trrsrre -- Fourth Fourth stomach of the the rumiABOMASUM. CAILLETTE (solid rennet) its extract, nants. Dried Dried caillette rennet) or or its extract, liquid nants. caillette (solid in the the cheese-making cheese-making used in rennet (obtained by by infusion) is used coagulating milk. industry for coagulating Arddche and and La is also also the the name name given in Caillette in the the Ardche Caillette is a mixture of minced Dr6me to a a large large sausage stuffed with a Drme pig's liver leaves. Iiver and chard Ieaves.
ABONDANCE ABONDANCE - Wine diluted with water. the drink drink which which in in days This ironically describes This word word ironically describes the gone go ne by used used to be served in schools or colleges, where wine deprecattenu is used, deprecatwas scarce and and water abundant. The term ingly, of watered-down wine.
An abaisse of pastry

Herb-flavoured wine. The The ancients ancients used ABROTONITE ABROTONITE - Herb-f1avoured mugwort called abrotanum abrotanum in this wine of mugwort to macerate a sort of flavour. to enhance its f1avour.

(Hunger-killer) A substantial substantial dish dish served ABAT-FAIM (Hunger-killer) - A early in the meal.

ABATTE (Beater) A popular corruption corruption of the ABATTE the French -A (to beat). word battre battre (to An abatte is is a a rather rather thick, word beat). An thick, broad, double-edged knife used flattening meal. meat. double-edged used for f1attening grown in plant grown ABEL-MUSK. AMBRETTE ,c,Mnnnrrr ABEL-MUSK. An aromatic aromatic plant - An very strong, must have a a very musty Martinique, the the seeds of which y which have smell. In India these seeds are mixed with coffee to give it a smel!. these seeds heighten its stimulating properties. and to heighten special aroma, and ambergris-scented variety Ambrette is also the name of an ambergris-scented of pear.
TABLE. ABLUTIONS ABLUTIoNs DE DE TABLE rABLE ABLUTIONS, TABLE. - The custom rinse their of passing bowls of water to to guests at at table, to to rinse meal, or after eating fingers at the end of eating certain dishes dishes with of a rneal, back to earliest earliest antiquity. It was a common the fingers, goes back practice with practice with the the ancient ancient Egyptians, Egyptians, the the Greeks Greeks and and the Romans, who hands before the meal Romans, who not only washed their hands but also between the courses. common to ail all ancient people, is explained 'This practice, cornmon by the fact that in those days food was taken taken with the fingers. (usually scented poured the servant poured A servant the contents of a a vesse! vessel (usually A water) over the fingers fingers of the guest. In other circumstances, circumstances, (Vie privie simply hands were sim ply washed in a basin.' (Vie prive des anciens, by Louis Nicolas Menard) Menard) pouR UNE UNE EAU Recipe for for finger-bowl finger-bowl water. water. RECETTE FscETrE POUR Recipe D'ABLUTToN 'Boil a a handful handful of sage in water. Pour off the D'ABLUTION - 'Boil marjoram resulting liquid and cool until tepid. Camomile or marjoram

ABSINTH. ABSINTHE ABSTNTHE made by by macerating and ABSINTH. - Liqueur made (Artemisia absinthium) distilling thc thc leaves leaves of wormwood wormwood (Artemisia distilling plants (fennel, Chinese then adding adding other aromatic aromatic plants Chinese anise, then hyssop, etc.). Absinth (colloquially known as la verte) was the apritif ap6ritif in Absinth the 1914 war. vogue before the vn D'ABSINTHE Absinth wine. VIN D'ABsINTHE infusion of of Absinth - Wine spiced by infusion wormwood leaves. leaves. wormwood

Wormwood Wormwood a. Branch a. b. Inflorescence b. c. Flower Flower c.

ABSORPTION
ABSORPTION ABSORPTION (Whinsical (Whimsical gastronomy) gastronomy)This was was the meal - This offered in l'cole in bygone times times to to the the senior senior students of I'Ecole polytechniqrc arrivais. 'Enough 'Enough is bbsorbed absorbed there polytechnique by the new arrivals. to justify justify the name of of the ceremony.' ceremony.' (Lor6dan (Lordan Larchey) Larchey) ABSTINENCE ABSTINENCE - Days Days of of abstinence abstinence are those on which one should should abstain abstain from from eating eating meat, meat, although although one one is is not obliged to fast. Meat abstinence abstinence does not prevent one from fast. Meat Iiving nonnal life. In fact, fact, the total exclusion of living a perfectly perfectly normal certain foods and condiments condiments is indispensable in a number number of of dietary dietary regimes. A few days' fasting is also prescribed for those who have over-indulged over-indulged at table.

ACETO-IX)LCE ACETO-DOLCE ('Sour*weet') ('Sour-sweet') - An An Italian commercial product of a mixture of vegetables and fruit, first product consisting of pickled Muscat pickled in in vinegar, vinegar, then then preserved preserved in in a a syrup syrup of Muscat grape must, must, honey and mustard. It is is usually served as as an hors-d' uvre. hors-d'euvre.
ACETOMEL. ACETOMEL. AcfroMELACTOMEL - Sour-sweet of honey Sour-sweet syrup made of and vinegar used in the preservation of of fruit. Quinces, Quinces, pears and grapes thus preserved of aceto-dolce, aceto-dolce, i.e. preserved take the name of sour-sweet sour-sweet fruit.

ACETONE. ACETONE. AcfroNE ACTONE

ABUTILON - There are more than sixty sixt y varieties of this plant the world. world. An An edible edible species species plant scattered scattered throughout the
grows in Brazil. known Abuti/on esculentum esculentum grows Brazil. The The Brazilians Brazilians known as as Abutilon benas de deos and cook cook its flowers with meat. meat. call it bengas In ln Europe, abutilon abutilon is cultivated cul tiva ted as a garden garden plant for the beauty its flowers, ofits flowers, but only only rarely rarely for use as food. In some sorne beauty of countries, particularly particularly in Asia and and in the the West West Indies, its leaves manner of sorrel sorrel or leaves are are cooked cooked and and eaten in the the manner spinach. In India the the natives are very fond fond of the the species species known as Abutilon Abutilon indicam. indicum.

- A colourless, inflammable inflammable liquid liquid with an acrid burning burning taste and a quince-like quince-like smell. Acetone appears in the body when the process cif of decomposition decomposition of fatty matter is is deficient deficient and and particularly particularly when when the the diet diet is lacking in carbohydrates (sugar). This frequently frequently arises in severe of diabetes and starvation. starvation. severe cases ofdiabetes

ACACIA-Acacia ACACIA - Acacia blossoms blossoms are are used used for making making fritters and a home-made liqueur. liqueur. Acacia blocsom FRITTERS. blossom fritters - See FRITTERS.
Acacia Hqueuror liqueur or ratafia ratafia - See LIQUEUR. LIQUEUR.

ACAI\THUS ACANTHUS @rank-ursine). (Brank-ursine). lcaNrHn ACANTHE - This This most decoradecorative plant plant is commonly commonly found in southern France where its elegant, denticulated denticulated leaves leaves are are eaten, eaten, when when young, young, as as a salad. It has emollient emollient qualities. qualities.
ACARNE ACARNE - Name Name given giveil to the European fish fish commonly commonly known known as sea bream. bream. ACAVUS. AcAvE ACAVE - A variety of snail common in French French vineyards and gardens. gardens. ACCOLADE, ACCOLADE, ININ - A A manner manner of of arranging arranging pieces pieces of of the same same nature nature - meat, meat, poultry, poultry, fish fish - back back to to back on one dish. This This method of presentation presentation was was much much in vogue vogue in in the olden olden days. method of

Chickens Chickens served served en accolade

ACELIIYE ACELINE - French French name name for for a a European European fish fish a a little resembling is quite good good and and it it is is prepared prepared resembling the the perch. perch. Its Its flesh flesh is like like perch perch (q.v.). (q.v.).
ACET ABULUM. lcfrl.rur.E ACTABULE - The ancient Romans used ACETABULUM. the word acetabulum to describe describe the the vessel vessel that held the word acetabulum
vinegar. vinegar. It lt was was also also used used as a measure measure in medicine. medicine.

ACHARD - This word, derived from from the the Persian Persian ACHAR. AcHARD ACHAR. word atchar, atchar, describes describes a a strongly spiced spiced pickle pickle (usually (usually word saffron-coloured) saffron-coloured) made from from fruit, fruit, or vegetables, vegetables, or or very young, tender buds of of palm cabbage (palmetto) (palmetto) or bamboo bamboo sprouts. It is highly regarded throughout the Indian ArchiArchipelago, pelago, in Mauritius, and R6union Runion Island. Island. Lemm ACHARDS DE DE crrRoNs CITR9NS Lemon achar (Creole cookery). cookery). AcHARDS Choose thin-skinned thin-skinned lemons lem ons and quarter quarter them. Extrait Extract the C6oose juice, juice, discard the pips, and macerate macerate the lemons in layers layers of kitchen kitchen salt. Remove the lemons from the salt and soak them in cold water several times. times. Boil in water for 24 hours, changing the water fresh fresh water water until the the lemons lemons become become soft. soft. Strain Strain offthe off the water. marinate in the following Dry the lemons and put them to marinate sauce: Pound a a large large onion, onion, a a pimento, pimento, and and a a large large piece of Pound grnger ginger to a fine fine paste paste in a mortar. mortar. (Ginger, (Ginger, as well weil as allspice, aUspice, Bourbon Bourbon saffron and Indian curry powder powder can be bought bought in of Bourbon Bourbon delicatessen shops.) shops.) Add vinegar vinegar and a teaspoon teaspoon of delicatessen best quality olive oil to ensure ensure saffron. Blend with sufficient best completely that the lemons, when packed into jars, will be completely covered. covered. ACHARDS DE DE pALMrsrEs PALMISTES Palmetto achar achar (Creole (Creole cookery). AcHARDS Palnetto Palmettos Palmettos (palm cabbage) cabbage) can can be be bought bought in in delicatessen delicatessen shops. Remove carefully from the can, can, discard discard the the oil in shops. olive which they were packed, and dress with good quality olive oil. ACHARDS os DE rfcuMts LGUMES Vegetable achar achar (Creole cookery). AcHARDS Vegetable seeds and and pulp pulp from from I 1 or 2 cucumbers, and Remove the seeds Cut cucumbers, cucumbers, pimentos, the insides insides from from 2 2 large large pimentos. Cut the about several carrots carrots and French beans into into thin strips about and several (11 inches) long. Mix with florets of of cauliflower and 4 cm. (l| roughly chopped cabbage cabbage leaves. leaves. roughly hours. Drain Drain thoroughly, Macerate these these vegetables vegetables for 36 hours. Macerate Lemon dry, and season season with sauce sauce described described in the recipe recipe for Lemon dry, achar above. preserve the achar, spoon into glass preserving preserving jars, jars, To preserve coyer completely completely with good good quality olive oil, and and seal the cover jars jars hermetically. hermetically.

AClllLLEA (Milfoil). .lcrtnr6r ACHILLE - Plant, Plant, of which which one ACHILLEA

Achillea ptarmica, ptarmica, which which grows in woods, is edible. edible. species, Achillea Its tender young young leaves leaves are added added to salads. salads. Its
ACIDE - A chemical hydrogen hydrogen compound recognisrecognisAcIDE of causing causing litmus solution to turn red. red. by its its property pro pert y of able by

ACETIC ACETIC ACID. ACID. lcfnqun ACTIQUE - The acid which which forms forms the the basis basis of of vinegar. vinegar. It It is is used used in in cooking sugar sugar in confectionery. confectionery.

ACID.

ACETIFICATION. ACETIFICATION. AcfTIFrcArroN ACTIFICATION - The chemical chemical reaction reaction by a a yeast yeast (Mycoderma (Mycoderma aceti). aceti). Aided Aided by by various various caused by caused
industrial VINEGAR), it it transforms transforms wine wine industrial processes processes (see (see VINEGAR), alcohol other alcoholic alcoholic liquid) liquid) into into acetic acetic acid. acid. alcohol (or (or other ACETIMETER.,c,cfnMirns ACETIMETER. ACTIMTRE - Instrument Instrument for for assessing assessing the the of concentration concentration of of vinegar. vinegar. degree of degree
2

used in cooking are vinegar, The acids most commonly used lemon juice juice and verjuice. lemon ACIDIFIERS (Bilible). (Edible). ACIDIFIANTSACIDIFIANTS - Foods Foods that that build build up an ACIDIFIERS of acid in the the system, system, leading leading to acidification of the excess of body fluids. fluids. body Acid-tasting fruits are not not necessarily necessarily acidifiers; nor nor do Acid-tasting

ACROAMA
the acid taste; lemons, for the latter latter necessarily necessarily possess possess an an acid taste; lemons, example, are not acidifiers. Meat pasta and bread bread Meat, game, sea fish, offal, cereals, flour, pasta are fish, eggs, eggs, butter, butter, are powerful acidifiers; acidifiers; ham, freshwater fish, fats, shoots, Brussels hop shoots, Brussels sprouts, fats, chocolate, chocolate, asparagus, asparagus, hop artichokes, onions, onions, chestnuts, chestnuts, peanuts, walnuts, walnuts, hazelnuts and almonds less seriously so. ACIDIFY.
AcTDTFIER ACIDIFIER - To add add acid acid (lemon juice, vinegar or verjuice) to a culinary preparation. preparation.

types are GLAND - Fruit tree. Sorne ACORN. cLAND Fruit of the ttre oak oak tree. Some types and were were eaten by certain Asian peoples before they edible and :rcorns discovered discovered cereals. In sorne some countries, such as Spain, acorns roasted. Acorn flour (which unlike chicory chicory are eaten raw or roasted. for coffee. has is used as a a substitute substitute for used as has costive properties) properties) is roasted acorns of the For this purpose the roasted the ballota oak are most commonly commonly used. used.

ACIDITY. lcIorrf ACIDIT - Acid taste. It exists naturally in certain vegetables and fruit and disappears disappears or diminishes as a result of a'blanching' a 'blanching' operation operation (see BLANCHING). BLANCHING). Nowadays, Nowadays, the the acidity acidity of a a liquid liquid is is measured measured in in pH units; these range from zero, for pure acid (such as as hydrochloric chloric acid), acid), to to 7, 7, which indicates indicates a a completely completely neutral neutral substance. The The scale scale continues above above 7 to indicate indicate degrees degrees of
alkalinity alkalinity (opposite of acidity). acidity). The acidity of certain Tbe acidity scale shows shows the the degree of aeidity foods. foods.
14
Sodium

A small small shellfish with a BARNACLE. slrlNn BALANE - A ACORN BARNACLE. ail seas, attached to conical irregular shell which is found in all rocks. rocks. It It is is also also commonly called called acorn acorn shell shell and and turban prepared like crab shell.Itsflesh shell. Its fiesh is quite delicate delicate and is prepared crab (q.v.).

Acorn barnacles barnacles stuck to a piece piece of of shell

t3 13
12
Sodium cyanide

1- Caffeine
11 10
Sodium carbonate

Phenol Ammonia

0 -J-

i;t
::.::::>

1-

~~r

0 Cf)

-J-I

8. Bicarbonate ~~c:~~~:;te of soda ~

of soda Soawater

ARTERIAl BlOOD 1.1...

NEUTRALITY NEUTRALITY

u::>
-J

-1-

c~1
o
Cf)

:: };~:~.::~OD ~)
i ~ 5
Hydrogen

peroxide

\ \ o \ { ~ s
l{l
~ o q.

-.j

SWEAT Zinc chloride Zincchloride

.4 ~ .4

';1

Beer Bgel

4
3

Lacticacid Lactic acid Orange iuice juice 0range Wine Grape iuice iuice Grapo Lomonjuice Lemon iuice GASTRfC JUIGE JUICE GASIBIC Acaticacid acid Acstic Pi cric scid acid Picric

ACQUEITE - An old, spirituous ACQUETTE very aromatic aromatic liquor, spirituous and very much prized in Italy and throughout the south of of France. Its appearance resembles that of Danziger Goldwasser (Danzig (Danzig appearance eau de de ure). vie). There There are are two two varieties: varieties: silver eau silver acquelle acquette (in d'oro). Italian aqua bianca), bianca), and gold acquelle Italian acquette (aqua doro). Silver acquette is made as follows: cinnamon g. (8 oz.) 225 s. Ceylon cinnamon Cloyes 25 s. g. (L (1 oz.) Cloves Nutmeg (1 oz.) Nutmeg 25 g. (l 20 litres (4| (4t gallons, 5t 85 alcohol 85" 20litres 5] gallons) Steep these various ingredients in the alcoholfor alcohol for 24 hours, Steep these then distil distil without without rectifying; rectifying; you you will will obtain 20 litres then obtain 20 (4| (41 gallons, gallons, 5f 51 gallons) gallons) liqueur. liqueur. Dissolve 25 25 kg. kg. (55 (55 lb.) (2t gallons, 3 gallons) water and add the sugar in III I litres (2| of the distillation. distillation. Leave Leave to rest for syrup obtained as as a a result result of syrup crushed silver silver leaf leaf into each the time time required, required, filter filter and put a crushed the each bottle. bottle. go Id acquette take: To prepare gold cinnamon g. (8 oz.) 225 s. Ceylon cinnamon 15 s. g. (l (t oz.) Cl oveS Cloves g. G (3 oz.) Angelica roots Angelica 75 e. Crete Daucus of Crete 75 g. (3 oz:) Fresh lemon (peel of) 40 s. g. (r| (lJ oz.) a0 Fresh (4t gallons, 5| 5t gallons) 85 alcohol 20 litres (4| 85'alcohol 20litres Proceed as as for preparing silver acquette, with just one Proceed crushed gold leaf into each bottle. bottle. difference, that you put a crushed ACRIDOPHAGE - One who feeds feeds on locusts. This food ACRIDOPHAGE but it is epicures of Europe, but may seem extraordinary to the epicures quite acceptable acceptable to African gastronomes. gastronomes. It appears appears that that the of locusts locusts resembles, if if somewhat somewhat remotely, remotely, that of of raw tas te of taste shrimps. ACROAMA - A A Greek Greek word, word, adopted adopted by by the the Romans, meaning 'that 'that to which which one one listens', listens', further further extended to meaning pays attention'. mean 'that to which one pays To better entertair entertah their guests, guests, the the patricians made a To habit of of summoning summoning musicians, poets, actors (who enacted, enacted, habit licentious scenes), scenes), men and women dancers, dancers, at times, very licentious jugglers, even gladiators gladiators and jugglers, acrobats, tumblers, tumblers, dwarfs dwarfs and even savage beasts beasts to perform perform while while the meal was in progress. progress. savage acroama meant not only these these To the Romans this word acroama types of entertainment, entertainment, but but also also the the performers performers various types themselves. themselves. acroama continued continued through the cenThe custom of the auoaftro but was renamed renamed entremets entremets ('between courses'). courses'). These turies but common with what what today today describes describes entremets had nothing nothing in common entremets 3

Hydrochloric acid Hydrochloric

Acidity scale scale Acidity

ACIDLTLATE. ACIDULA TE. acnurnn ACIDULER - To render render a dish dish slightly acid, sour or piquant piquant by by the addition of of lemon, vinegar, etc. ACIDLJLATED. ACIDULATED. acnulE ACIDUL - Term Term which which is is only used used to describe describe mineral minerai waters waters charged charged with with carbonic carbonic acid. acid. ACON ACON - An An implement implement used by by French mussel mussel farmers to gather gather the the mussels mussels from from the the mussel mussel beds beds in the the cove coye of Aiguillon, near near La Rochelle. Aiguillon, of this this tool tool dates dates back back to antiquity. It It is is mentioned mentioned The use use of The in Charlemagne's Capitularies.

ACTINIA ACTINIA
a course course of of vegetables vegetables or or a a sweet sweet course course served served towards towards the the a end of a meal. meal Acroama, of a Acroama,and the'spectacular entremets'that and the 'spectacular entremets' that end succeeded it, it, were were enacted all through enacted ail through the the meal. meal. succeeded

(Ser anemone). ACTINIA (Sea anemone). ACTINIE lcnNm -- Although Although actiniae actiniae ACfINIA (stinging) animais, are urticating urticating (stinging) animals, they they are are used as food used as food in in are certain localities. localities. The The inhabitants inhabitants of of southern southern coasts coasts of of certain France relish relish a a species species of of actinia actinia which which they they cali call rastgne rasftgne and and France maintain that that their their taste taste resembles resembles that that of of crabs. crabs. maintain Actiniae have have to to be be thoroughly thoroughly beaten beaten before before cooking cooking to to Actiniae tenderise them. them. They They can can then then be be fried, fried, made made into into fritters, fritters, tenderise omelettes, etc. etc. omelettes,
ADOC -- Name Name sometimes given to sometimes given to sour sour milk. milk. ADOC ADLTLTERATION. FALSIFICATION FALsrFrcArroN -- A A deliberate deliberate lowering lowering ADULTERATION. quality of of the the quaJity foodstuffs for purpose of foodstuffs for the the pur gain. of illicit illicit gain. of pose of

juices, remove panjuices, Strain the the pan removeexcess fatand excessfat andreduce reduce to tothe Strain the desired consistency. consistency. desired Place the the agami agami on on aaserving serving dish dishsurrounded surroundedby Place bythe the garnishes. Coat with the sauce. Coat with thesauce. garnishes.

(Iove feast) AGAPE(Love feast)-- This Thiswas wasthe AGAPE ofthe themeal the name nameof which mealwhich the early early Christians Christians held held together together in the inchurch, church, in inmemory memory of of the Last Last Supper. Supper. The The Council the Council of of Carthage abolished the Carthage abolished the agapes in in A.D. a.o.397 put an 397in n order agapes order to toput anend endto tothe thecalumnies calumniesof of which they theywere which were the theobject. object. The meals meals held held by The earlyChristians by the theearly Christians in inthe thecatacombs catacombs in in memory of memory of the the martyrs martyrs were were also also called calledagapes. agapes. This word word nowadays nowadays is This used to isused todefine define an an important importantfamily family meal. meal.
(Bengal isinglass) AGAR-AGAR productobtained isinglass) -- A AGAR-AGAR (Bengal A product obtained from from various various seaweeds, seaweeds, known known also also as as Japanese Japanese moss, moss,Ceylon Ceylon moss. MOSS. Agar-agar Agar-agar is is collected collected in in the the form form of crinkly, whitish, of thin, thin, crinkly, whitish, transparent transparent strips. strips. It It swells swells slightly slightly in in cold coldwater water and and conconsiderably siderably so so in in boiling boiling water, water, in in which which it it finally finally dissolves. dissolves. A A jelly can fairly fairly stiff stiff jelly can be be obtained obtained from from it, it, which which is is used in usedin bacteriology. bacteriology. Its Its neutral neutral taste taste makes makes it it suitable suitable for for use incooking usein cookingand and jellies. confectionery, confectionery, and and fot for making making jellies. It It is is by regurgitating seaweed by regurgitating seaweed of of this that the salanthis type type that the salangane (Chinese swalIow) gane (Chinese prized by swallow) builds builds its its nest, nest, so so much much prized by the me of'bird's the Chinese Chinese under under the the na name of 'bird's nest', nest', for for which whichfactoryfactorymade passed-off in made agar-agar agar-agar is is often often passed-off in the West. the West. Agar-agar toms Agar-agar always always contains contains the the carapaces carapaces of of dia diatoms (microscopic (microscopic unicellular unicellular algae) algae) easiJy easily identifiable identifiable under under the the microscope. microscope. This possible the This factor factor makes makes possible rapid detection the rapid detection of any fraudulent the product. fraudulent use product. ofany use of ofthe

/SGINETIA. JEGINETIE .EcrNErrE -- The The type genus of plant, type genus A:GINETIA. of this this plant, Eginetia indica, indica, is is indigenous indigenous to to the the East East Indies. Indies. The /Eginetia The natives natives of the coast coast of of Malabar Malabar cali call it it tsiem-cumulu tsiem-cumulu and of and blend it with with blend it nutmeg and and sugar (chewingsugar to to form form an an excellent excellent mascatory nutmeg mascatory (chewinggum) used used for for strengthening strengthening the gum) the teeth teeth and and combating combating bad bad breath.
OF RHODES. RHODES. AEGIS mcn DE DE RHODES RHoDEs -- One AEGIS OF One of of the the seven seven great masters masters of of ancient ancient Greek (third century Greek cuisine cuisine (third great century B.C.). B.c.). in the the art art of of cooking cooking fish. He excelled in fish. Word used AFFINAGE used in in the the French French cheese cheese industry industry to to - Word process of describe the the process of ripening ripening or describe or maturing maturing cheese cheese in in temperature'controlled tempera ture-controlJed cellars. cellars.

AFFRIANDER French cuJinary AFFRIANDER culinary term term which which means means to to - French tempt; to pleasant appearance tempt; to attract attract by by the pleasant appearance of of a a dish. dish.
AFTER-TASTE. ,mn$nr-co0r -- Taste AFfER-T ASTE. ARRIRE-GOT Taste that that returns returns to to the the mouth after ingestion of certain foods mouth foods and and beverages. beverages.
the the Guiana agami agami is is typicaJ. typical. Its Its flesh flesh has appreciable merit. has appreciable merit. The The agami agami is is used used in in cookery cookery mainly mainly in in South South America, America, boiled boild in consomm consomm6 or braised with rice. pleasant flavour Its flesh has has a pleasant flavour but is is rather dry, dry, although although less so so in the domesticated domesticated bird.

AGAMI (Trumpeter) of the wader wader family family of of which which - A bird of

AGARIC AGARIC -- A A family family of of fungi fungi with with a a compact compact cap cap and and radiatradiating gills, that grows profusely profusely in places, ing gilIs, that grows in damp damp and and shaded shaded places, and and is is also also found found in in fields, fields, on on tree tree trunks, trunks, in in caves caves and and on on decayed decayed wood. wood. There There are are about about 2000 known species 2000 known speciesof of agarics quite a agarics and and quite a large large number number of are edible. of them them are edible. The The poisonous poisonous species genus called species are are chiefly found among chiefly found among the the genus called Amanita. Amanita. Among Among the the edible edible agarics agarics are are the the following: following: Edible grown in Edible agaric agaric or or cultivated cultivated mushrooms, mushrooms, grown in the the quarries quarries around around Paris Paris -- the the c1assic classic type mushroom. This This type of of mushroom. is is often described under often described term champignon champignon without without any any under the the tenn other qualification. other qualification.

Agami Agami

h la chilienne chilienne - Choose Choose as Agami tr as tender an an agami agami as as posc1ean it. it. Prepare Prepare a singe and clean sible. Pluck, draw, singe a garnish of of rice cooked in fat stock with with pimentos. Bard Bard it put to it and and put to braising pan with with the the usual usual accompaniments accompaniments of braise in a braising of vegetables and and spices, spices, and some sorne dry dry white white wine. wine. vegetables medium-sized braise in in veal veal jelly jelly stock stock 12 Separately, braise 12 medium-sized onions stuffed stuffed with with a a salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) of of sweet pimentos onions sweet pimentos blended with with a a few few tablespoons of of reduced reduced velout velouti (q.v.). Prepare also also 450 450 g. g. (l (lIb.) Okra in in tomato tomato sauce sauce (sec, (see OKRA). Prepare lb.) Okra OKRA). As soon soon as as the the agami agami is is cooked, cooked, remove rem ove from the braising braising As from the Glaze it it in in the the oven. oyen. pan. Glaze pan.
4

A agaric which underside of the cap A type ofagaric which has type of has very very distinctive distinctive ridges ridges on on the the underside ofthe cap

AILLADE AILLADE
Royalagaric, agaric,agaric agaricodorain odorainor or St. St.George's George'sagaric agaricand andthe the Royal cultivatedagaric agaricare arealso also found found in inthe theParis Parisregion' region. cultivated Among the the poisonous poisonous species species are are Amanita Amanita phalloides phalloides Among (death cap) cap) and and Amanita Amanita vernn verna (glll) (gill)(see (seeMUSHROOMS). MUSHROOMS) . (death Toprepare prepareedible edibleagarics, agarics, saute sautin inaa shallow shallowpan panin inoil oil or or To butter ; dress dress with with herbs, herbs, Creon Cream sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE), SAUCE), ri /a la butter; provenale, d la la bordelarse bordelaise (see (see GARNISHES). GARNISHES). They They can can provmgale, also be be used used as as a a garnish garnish for for a a large large number number of ofdishes. dishes. also
(I~ f,ints, pints, generous generous quart) quart) verjuice, verjuice, tt litre litre (scant (scant pint, pint, 1tfi Z*hipO 2* cups)waier waterand and 150 150g. g.(5 (5oz., oz.,! cup)brown brown or orgranulated granulated I cup)

Ingredients. Ingredients. 150 150 g. g. (5 (5 oz., oz., I1cup) cup) sweet sweet almonds' almonds, I1litre litre

sugar. sugar. -Method

AGATHON - Poet, Poet, born born in in Athens, Athens, and and not not in in Samos, Samos, as as AGATHON certain authors authors maintain. main tain. certain sumptuous repasts repasts gave gave rise rise to to a a great great deal deaJ of ofjesting jesting His sumptuous His on the the part part of of Aristophanes Aristophanes and and other other dramatists. dramatists. Some Sorne on Banquet was was composed composed at at his his table. table. people claim claim that that Plato's Plato's Banquet people of South South American American plants plants belonging beJonging to to AGA VE -A A genus genus of AGAVE Agavaceae - a a native native of of Mexico. Mexico. In In Cuba Cuba and and the family family Agavaceae the Mexico its its pulp pulp is is fermented fennented to to make make an an alcoholic alcoholic beverage beverage Mexico pulque. called pulque. called AGNOLOTTI. Agnoloffi Agnolotti i la la pi6montaise pimontaise (Italian (ltalian cookery) cookery)AGNOLOTTI. Prepare a a noodle noodle paste paste in in the the following following manner: manner: put put 450 450 g. g. Prepare (I lb., lb., 4 4 cups) cups) flour flour in in a a circle circle or or 'fountain' 'fountain' on on a a table. table. In In the the (l middle of of this tbis circle circle put put 4 4 egg egg yolks, yolks, 20 20 g. g. (a (a generous generous tabletablemiddle of salt salt and I 1 dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant spoon) butter, butter, a a pinch pinch of spoon) t cup) cup) water. water. * Knead for l0 10 minutes minutes but but avoid avoid giving giving too too much much body body to to Knead the paste. paste. Allow Allow to to rest rest for l0 10 minutes. the out the the paste paste with a a rolling-pin rolling-pin as as thinly thinly as possible. possible. Roll out Roll Place walnut-sized walnut-sized pieces pieces of of forcemeat (see FORCEMEAT, FORCEMEAT, Place Beefforcemeat) forcemeat) along it in a horizontal line, spacing them Beef 5 cm. cm. (2 inches) from from the the edge edge of the the paste paste and and 5 cm. cm. (2 (2 inches) 5 inches) from from each each other. other. inches) Fold the overIapping over this row of edge of the paste over Fold overlapping edge agnolotti. Press down heap of forcemeat, to each heap around each down around agnolotti. Press make the paste stick the agnolotti with a agnolotti with Cut out out the well. Cut stick weil. the paste make crescent-shaped, pastry-cutter, thus thus obtaining fluted-edged pastry-cutter, crescent-shaped, fluted-edged little little turnovers. turnovers. Poach l0 minutes, minutes, allowing for 10 water for in boiling boiling water them in Poach them - pints, 2 quart) water. generous quart) (lf pints, generous per litre litre (1 salt per 2 teaspoons teaspoons salt Drain, dish.. place in in a a dish Drain, and and place Make from the left over over from beef left the braised braised beef from the a sauce sauca from Make a forcemeat. with the cheese with grated Pannesan Parmesan cheese and grated Serve this and forcemeat. Serve agnolotti agnolotti.. AGONE is Italy it it is In Italy (Smarh graerlis). graerlis). AGON AcoN -- ln D'ISTRIA (Smaris AGOIYE D'ISTRIA known the has much much the it has indeed it and indeed of sardina sardina and name of the name known under under the same All the the sardine. Ali the sardine. size to to the in size is similar similar in and is flavour and same flavour recipes Like (q.v.) can to it. it. Like applied to be applied can he given for sardines (q.v.) for sardines recipes given . sardines, salted. be salted can be sardines, agone agone can AGORANOME Greece. in ancient ancient Greece. of markets markets in Inspector of AGORANOME -- Inspector He for responsible for produce and was responsible and was price of of produce the price He controlled controlled the the The markets. The to its its markets. laws relating relating to the laws of the the implementation implementation of agoranome the of the aedile of to the the aedile Greeks corresponds corresponds to of the the Greeks agoraiome of Romans. Romans. AGOU small-grain resembles small-grain sd8'o resembles negroes' sago or negroes' AGOU -- Agou Agou or millet. yellow with aa yellow colour with brownish-grey colour grain is isof of brownish-grey Thisgrain millet. This spot made rice. Flour Flour made likerice. It is iscooked cooked like stem.It thestem. it joins the spot where where itjoins from porridge. cakesand andporridge. makecakes to make it is is used used to from it AGOUTI (where Brazil(where found in inBrazil hare found sizeof the size ofaahare Rodent the AGOUTI -- Rodent il and Republic, and Dominican Republic, theDominican Guiana, the calledcotia), cotia), Guiana, it is iscalled generally in livein canlive The agouti agouti can Indies.The WestIndies. theWest generallythroughout throughoutthe Europe cold. protected from from the thecold. ifit itis isprotected Europeif The israther rather theflavour flavouris goodto though the toeat, eat,even eventhough fleshis isgood The flesh strong. (seePORK, pig(see Piglet). PORK, Piglet). preparedlike likesucking suckingpig Itis isprepared strong. It AGRAS more tobe bemore beverage;to icedbeverage; anAigerian Algerianiced isan Agrasis AGRAS- - Agras precise, and almondsand arealmonds ingredientsare graniti.Its Itsmain main ingredients precise,aagranit. verjuice. verjuice.

preparation' Method of of preparation. Blanch Blanch the the almonds almonds after after having having scalded scalded them them with with boiling boilingwater. water. Pound Pound them them in inaamortar mortaras as ofthe thewater' water. finely as aspossible, possible, moistening moisteningthem them with with a a little littleof finely When thiy theyform When fonn aapaste, paste,dilute dilutewith with the the rest restof ofthe the water waterand and verjuice putunder under a a press press verjuice and and strain strain through through a a napkin, napkin, then th en put

to It dl' dl. (t (! pint, pint, !f cup) cup) white white vinegar vinegar to lxtract extract all ail the the liquid. liquid . l+ combined with with I1litre litre (lf (l- pints, pints, generous generous quart) quart) water water may may combined he substituted substituted for for the the verjuice verjuice and and water. water. be Sweeten the the liquid Iiquid with with the the brown brown sugar' sugar, or' or, if if this this is is not not Sweeten available, available, granuhted granulated sugar, sugar, and and strain strain through through a a napkin napkin once once again, again, but but this this time time without without pressing. pressing. Stand in an an ice ice bucket, bucket, surrounded surrounded by by a a mixmixStand this this mixture mixture in ture of of crushed cru shed ice ice and and sea sea salt salt (coarse (coarse salt), salt), allowing allowing l0 10 per per ture of salt, salt, and and leave leave to to chill' chilI. Loosen Loosen the the parts parts which which get get cent of cent stuck stuck to to the the sides sides of of the the ice ice bucket bucket about about every every 15 J 5 minutes' minutes. When When the the whole whole mixture mixture acquires acquires a a granulated granulated texture, texture, serve serve it in sherbet sherbet glasses, glasses, adding adding half ha If a a coffeespoon coffeespoon of of kirsch kirsch to to each each glass. glass. AGUAXIMA of Brazilian Brazilian pepper pepper not not very very difdifAGUAXIMA - A A species species of ferent from ordinary ordinary PePPer. pepper. A fruit AGLJNCAIB.lcuNclriAGUNCATE. AGUNCAT-A fruit grown grown in in Peru,calledpalta Peru, calledpalta in Lima. Lima. It It is is shaped shaped like like a a calabash calabash (gourd), (gourd), is is green green in in colour colour and has has a varniJhed varnished appearance. appearance. Its Its skin skin comes cornes away away from from the flesh easily when the fruit fruit is ripe. ripe. This This flesh, flesh, somewhat somewhat in common common with insipid, is eatCn eaten with salt. It It has something in with (q'v.). of avocado the flesh of avocado Pear pear (g .v.).
medica) (French name for Citr~ Citnrs medica) CDDRE (French AIGRE DE AIGRE DE CDRE Dame for Grasse around Grasse in Provence, Provence, around cultivated of a citron tree cultiva Fruit of ted in It Italy. It in Italy. Genoa in near Genoa and near Remo and at San San Remo Nice, also also at and Nice, and drink. summer drink. makes a very refreshing summer cut slice cut thin slice a thin means a An aiguillette aiguillette means AIGUILLETTE - An game. poultry and winged game. and winged the breast of poultry on the lengthways on describe to describe be used used to only he should only speaking, the word should Slrictly speaking, Strictly thin to thin referring to when used wh often used it is is often fowl, but it slices of fowl, thin slices en referring tbin into aiguillettes' aiguillettes'.. 'cut a beef into of beef fillet of a fillet e.g., 'cut meat, e.g., slices of of meat, slices (see BEEF). BEEF). rump (see top rump the top describe the used to to descrihe is a/so also used Aiguillette is Aiguillette

Agouti Agouti

which France,which ofFrance, southof inthe thesouth usedin Definition used AILLADE - - Definition AILLADE (Languedoc or Provence) orProvence) district (Languedoc thedistrict tothe according to applies,according applies, garlic allgarlic areaH butare somewhat but differsomewhat preparationswhich which differ topreparations to based. based. (q-v.)' garlicvinaigrette vinaigrette (q.v.), ofgarlic sortof santce,aasort ailladesauce, Firstly,ail/ade Firstly, garnishes' othergarnishes. andother chivesand shallots, chives includingshallots, sometimesincluding sometimes

AIOLI AOLI
Aillade sauce sauceis isserved served with withco cold meatand potatoes andfish, fish, with withpotatoes Aillade Id meat generally, with and, generally, with ail alldishes dishes served serveddla lavinaigrelle. vinaigrette. and, Secondly, bread bread d l'aillade, I'aillade,aa slice slice of of toasted toasted bread, bread, Secondly, thoroughly rubbed rubbed with garlic and with garlic andsprinkled sprinkled with with olive olive oil. oil. thoroughly provengal aillade This provenal aillade is isthe the equivalent equivalent of the Languedocian of the Languedocian This (garlic-rubbed chapon (garlic-rubbed bread). bread). chapon Certain authors authors also also mention mention other other regional regional preparations preparations Certain known under under the the name name of of aillade. aillade. Among Among these theseare: ari: known Aillade albigeoise albigeoise which which is is nothing nothing more more than than an an aoli atoli Aillade (q.v.). Aillade d la la toulousaine toulousaine which which is isalso also an anaoli atoliwithblanched with blanched pounded walnuts and pounded walnuts added. added. and these preparations preparations are are very very appetising but but something something Ali these -All of an acquired acquired taste, taste, garlic being being their outstanding outstanding characcharacof an teristic. Tbey They are are excellent for for seasoning seasoning salads. salads. teristic. AIOLIoT IILLOLI -- Peel Peel4 pound and pound AOLI or AILLOU 4 large cloves of garlic, and to a paste in a fine fine paste in a a mortar mortar with I egg yolk. Season Season with with aa to pinch of of salt, salt, and and continue continue to pound, adding 21to pound, (scant 2| dl. dl. (scant generous cup) cup) olive olive oil oil little little by by little, little, as ] pint, generous as for ior mayonmayonnaise. Stir Stir this this mixture mixture vigorously. vigorously. When When finished, finished, it it should should have the the appearance appearance of of a a thick thick smooth smooth m'lyolnn.ais;e. mayonnaise. have Aioli is is served served mainly mainly with with boiled boiled fish, fish, hot or or cold, cold, but but Afoli can also also be be served served with with cold cold meal, meat, or or used used as as a a seasoning seasoning for for can salads and and cooked cooked vegetables. vegetables. salads Garnishod aoli. aio[. AOLI .liou GARNI cARNr -- This This dish, dish, very popular in Garnish.ed Provence, is is composed of of a a variety of of inl~re:dilmt.s, ingredients, such as Provence, boiled cod, cod, snails cooked cooked in in salt water, water, fennel, onions onions boiled stuck withcloves, with cloves, boiled boiled carrots, carrots, french french beans, beans, artichokes artichokes stuck cooked in in salt salt water, water, unskinned potatoes, bard-boiled unskinned potatoes, hard-boiled eggs, eggs, cooked etc. Small Small octopi, boiJed boiled in in salted salted water with herbs, herbs, are are somesomeetc. times added. All these are arranged on a a large dish and and served served with aoli. aioli. with The preparation of of this this dish, says J. B. Reboul, one J. B. one of the the The maitres provengale, demands a cuisine provenale, great deal a great deal of of maitres de la cuisine artistic arrangement. arrangement. Not Not ail all the ingredients whicb which we we have artistic enumerated, however, are absolutely essential. There is is no no enumerated, however, are set rule point. One on this this point. One should proceed proceed according to to one's set rule on tastes and the tas tes and the means means at one's disposal. Aidi la grecqrre i la kind of vinaigrette sauce sauce which which is Aoli il A kind -A prepared combine pounded walnuts, prepared as as follows: combine walnuts, almonds and and soaked in in and hazelnuts hazelnuts with fresh fresh breadcrumbs sieved and milk, pounded garlic. garlic. Blend BJend with oil, vinegar and lemon milk, and and pounded juice. juice. Serve Serve with with fried fried and boiled boiled fish.

Albatross Albatross

ALBUIERA @') - Definition applying to various kinds of ALBUFRA dishes chiefly chieflyCh,naictenStxj characterised by the sauce which goes with dishes them. them. Theterm term d'AlbuJra d'Albufdra was probably first was probably first used usedeither either by by _The Car6me or or by by his his successor successor Plumerey, Plumerey,so Carme sothe the recipefor for Duckling dla lad'AlbuJra d'Albufirais almost certainly Duckling is almost certainly the authenticone. one. It differs differs slightly slightly from from the themodem modern version. It version. Marshal Suchet Suchet was was made made Duke Duke of Marshal ofAlbufra Albuf6rain in1812 l812 after after the victories victories of of Oropza, Orop6za, M Murviedro urviedro and the and Valencia Valenciain in Spain. The lake lake of of Albufra (See DUCK. Albuf6ra is is near near Valencia. The Valencia. (See cHrcKEN.) CHICKEN.)

ALBUMEN -- A A constituent constituent of ALBUMEN of seeds seeds containing containing food food reserves for plant in for the the plant reserves in germination. Albumen Albumen is issometimes sometimes farinaceous, as as in in cerealssuch such as asmaize, farinaceous, maize, barley, barley, corn corn and and rye; sometimes sometimes oily oily or or fleshy fleshy as rye; as in in coconut palm and coconut palm and in in black black poppy. In In certain palms it certain palms it acquires poppy. acquires the the hardness hardness of of ivory. ivory. The albumen albumen contained contained in The in coconuts coconuts is is in in the the fonn form of of an an layer surrounding outer layer surrounding the outer the inner inner cavity that that contains contains the the liquid commonly commonly known known as liquid ut milk. as cocon coconut

grain or Section of Section a grain corn showing ofa ofcorn showing albumen the albumen the

AISY left over from the AISY - Name Name given given to the (soured) (soured) whey !eft scalding scalding of of milk milk used used in in the production prod uction of Gruytre. This whey whey is is used used to to make cheeses cbeeses of an an inferior quality called serai.The serai. The aisy aisy is is stored stored in barrels and added to daily &s more whey whey becomes becomes available. ALARIA of seaweed of which five five species are ALARIA - A A genus genus of found in the the seas seas ofnorthern of northern Europe. Europe. found in One One variety, variety, known known as as badderlocks badderIocks in in Scotland Scotland and murlins murlins in in Ireland, Ireland, flourishes flourishes along along the the Atlantic Atlantic coast coast of of the British British Isles. Isles. It It is is eaten eaten in Scotland, in lreland, Ireland, and in the Faroe Faroe Islands. Islands.. Only Only the the slightly sligbtly sweet central central cartilaginous cartilaginous vein is consumed. consumed. vein is

ALBACORE ALBACORE (Yellowfin (YeLlowfin tura) tuBa) - A A large large species of tunny tunny (tuna) (tu na) fish. fish. This This is is also also the the Portuguese Portuguese word word for for the the swordswordfish fish (q.v.). (q.v.).

ALBARELLE of edible edible fungi fungi which which grows grows on on ALBARELLE - A A genus of
chestnut chestnut trees trees and and white poplars. poplars.

Many types of grain are are used for for their their albumen albumen in in domestic domestic economy, in medicine and economy, and in in the the arts. cereals provide provide arts. Thus Thus cereals us with with flour; us flour; the the coffee coffee shrub shrub wh with an an alkaloid known known as as caffeine; the the black poppy with black poppy poppyseed oil, with poppyseed oil, used used almost almost unlve:rSlllv universally as as a food. The The seeds a food. seeds of certain species of of waterwaterlilies, very pleasant to the palate, lilies, palate, are much much used in Cbina and China and Vietnam as as food. The kernels of a species grows species of pine that grows in in Provence Provence and and Italy contain contain an an oily, oily, delicately flavoured albumen, which makes them much valued valued in in confectionery, confectionery, particularly in the manufacture manufacture of sugared pine nuts. nuts. Several Several species species of of palm tree provide provide both edible oil and and oil for lighting. Linseed Linseed oil oil cornes ing. comes from the seeds seeds of flax. species of A species of dwarf dwarf palm, found produces a found in Peru, produces a large cabezo de fruit which the natives call call cana or cabezo de negro. negro, When is green, the tbe albumen'of albumen of its its seeds the fruit is the seeds is is a a pleasanttasting liquid which, when fermented, yields a a wine that that is is mu ch appreciated by the the Peruvians. The fruit, when wh en ripe, much The fruit, ripe, be put put to the the same same uses uses as ivory; becomes very hard and can be as ivory; in fact fact it il is is exported under under the the name name of of raw raw ivory or vegetable in or vegetable ivory. When When burned, burned, the the product product obtained obtained compares compares ivory. obtained from from eleelefavourably with ivory black, which is obtained phants' teeth teeth and and tusks. phants'
ALBUMINE - Viscous whitish matter matter with with a a ALBUMTNE whitish - Viscous slightly salty salty taste. taste. An example is is white white of of egg, egg, which which conconslightly 59 per per cent cent of ofits i18 total total weight weight (see (see EGGS). EGGS). tains albumin albumin up up to to 59 tains A}bumin is is also also found in ln blood blood serum, serum, in in milk milk and and in in Albumin of dried dried vegetables. It It is is for for plants, particularly in in the the seeds seeds of plants, this reason reason that that the water water in in which which peas, peas, beans and and lentils lentils this

ALBATROSS. ALBATROSS. lrs.{rnm ALBATROS - Sea Sea bird bird with with very tough tough flesh. flesh. That That ofthe of the young young bird bird is is eaten, eaten, nevertheless, nevertheless, and is is prepared prepared like like Wild Wild &tck duck (see (see DUCK). DUCK). ALBIGEOISE ALBIGEOISE-- Garnish Garnish for for large large and and small small cuts cuts of ofmeat. meat. It It consists consists of ofstuffed stuffed tomatoes tomatoes and and potato potato croquettes. croquettes.
6

ALBUMIN. ALBUMIN.

ALCAZAR ALCAZAR
Albumin is are cooled. Albumin are cooked cooked becomes becomes viscous viscous when when cooJed.
soluble in water in its raw state but coagulates a temperacoagulates at a and then becomes insoluble. ture of 78-80e. 78-80'C. (172-176"F.) (l72-l76F.) and Albumin in the form of of a a thin yellowish transparent sediment can be obtained by evaporating the white of egg egg at at a the white (122"F.). temperature of about 50e. 50'C. (l22F.). Albumin is used in the confectionery confectionery industry as as a a substitute for white of egg in the manufacture manufacture of certain kinds of of liquorice, Montlimar Montelimar whisked pastes pastes such as marshmallow, whisked marshmallow, liquorice, nougat and various meringue products. as an It is also an egg egg substitute in in the the manufacture manufacture of of also used used as cheap biscuits and almond paste. Before use it has has to be disId water. cold solved in about seven times its weight of co Albumin in the form of beaten whites of egg is used in the clearing of of wine. in and brown them them in onions and pimentos and Method. Slice Slice the onions Method. garlic. Sprinkle stir, with flour, flour, stir, Sprinkle with slightly crushed crushed garlic. butter. Add slightly (which has has been meat (which been and add add the the meat lightly, and to brown brown lightly, allow to Add the the egg egg and and and seasoning. seasoning. Add minced), breadcrumbs, and minced), water, a little of of the stock stock or or boiling boiling water, well. Moisten with a blend weil. quarter of an hour. hour. for a a quarter of an and leave leave to to sim simmer and mer for pastry into a a pastry still hot, hot, into mixture, while while still Put this this forecemeat forecemeat mixture, Put saucepan ring. Hold Hold the the bag bag over over a a saucepan forcing-bag fitted fitted with a a ring. small slices slices of of the the squeeze; cut cut off off small stock and and squeeze; of boiling boiling stock of quenelles the bag. bag. Sim Simmer these quenelles of the sausage as it it cornes comes out out of mer these sausage,as pan. lid off leaving the the lid off the the pan. in the boiling stock stock leaving in in butter, butter, and and add add them them soften them them in Chop the the tomatoes, tomatoes, soften Chop just before served. it is is served. to the the soup soup just before it to

ALBUMINOIDS. ALBUMINODES -- Substances ALBUMINOIDS.,c,rnuMNoioEs Substances possessing properties akin albumin (coagulable by by heat), akin to to those those of albumin proteinic substances. also called nitrogenous, quaternary or proteinic They exist in animal or vegevegall living organisms, organisms, whether animal in ail
table. Chemical analysis same four four basic basic elements: elements: analysis reveals the same carbon, hydrogen, oxygen in varyoxygen and and nitrogen nitrogen associated in ing quantities with other elements. Albuminoids constitute of ttre essential elements elements of constitute one one of the our the only only our diet. diet. Of all the the substances we we generally eat, eat, the Of aU ones lacking in albuminoids albuminoids are those which have undergone undergone an industrial purifying process su ch as sugar. such as oil oil and and sugar. ln In dietetics, dietetics, an an increased increased ration ration of of albuminoids albuminoids is is ococcasionally prescribed (in cases of malnutrition, etc.) but more casionally prescribed more frequently the is reduced albuminoids in the the diet diet is the amount of albuminoids prowhen, for for example, the kidneys fail fail to to eliminate eliminate waste procxample, the ducts transform them. ducts or the liver is unable to transform Without going to reproducing specialist specialist Without going to the the extent extent of of reproducing tables possible to divide albuminoid or or tables of of analyses, analyses, it it is is possible to divide nitrogenous food food into four categories: categories: Very po or in (less than green vegepoor in albumins albumins (less than 1 cent): green I per cent): tables, pulpy fruit, potatoes, rice, tables, pulpy fruit, potatoes, rice, cream, cream, butter, butter, honey, sugar, oils. Poor (up (up to green cabspinach, artichokes, green cabto 6 6 per cent): cent): spinach, bages, Brussels uts, green peas, cocoa, green peas, cocoa, chestnuts, Biussels sprouts, bages, sprouts, chestn chocolate. Rich (6 to per cent): Rich (6 cereals, noodles, to 12 12 per cent): bread, bread, Bours, flours, cereals, eggs. eggs. Very (I2 to per cent): hazelVery rich rich (12 cent): walnuts, walnuts, almonds, almonds, hazelto 30 30 per nuts, peas, lentils, dried peas, lentils, various meats, nuts, various meats, fish, fish, dried dried beans, beans, dried beans, peas, cheeses. beans, chick peas, cheeses.

Alcarazza Alcarazza

(Water cooler). ALCARRAZA The French French cooler). ALCARAZAS ALcARAZAS -- The ALCARRAZA (Water have the Spanish, Spanish, who who in in turn turn from the have borrowed borrowed this this word word from (pitcher). In borrowed it alkourraz (pitcher). In Egypt, Egypt, it from from the the Arabic Arabic alkourraz 'the alcarraza the has become the French French become the this has is called bardak; this called bardak; alcarraza is probably barclague balasse. Bardak Bardak is is a a Turkish Turkish word word probably bardague and and balasse. stemming bara, meaning meaning to to cool, cool, and and root bara, stemming from from the the Arabic Arabic root (meaning, like from like alcarraza, a frorn which barradn (meaning, alcarraza, a is derived which is derived barrada vessel vessel for liquids) and and the the Spanish word albarrada. albarrada. for cooling cooling liquids) Spanish word jugs of These porous, unglazed various shapes shapes are are filled filled These porous, unglazed jugs of various with shade in in a a draught. The water water with water water and and hung hung in in the the shade draught. The jug and oozes pores of The of the the jug and evaporates. evaporates. The through the the pores oozes through hotter air, the the hotter the the outside temperature and and the the drier drier the the air, outside temperature quicker quicker the heat necessary necessary for for evaporation evaporation the evaporation. evaporation. The The heat jug, which is frorn the liquid inside inside the the jug, which is is thus thus is extracted extracted from the liquid cooled. eooled.
paste ALCAZAR (Ptisserie) - Line Lining paste with Lining Line a a sponge tin with sponge tin ALCAZAR(PSfisserie)(see (see DOUGH). with 2 2 tabletableand spread spread with Prick the the bottom bottom and DOUGH). Prick jam. Fil spoons 1 three-quarters (3 tablespoons) Fill of apricot jam. three-quarters of spoons (3 tablespoons) apricot the following mixture: the tin tin with with the the following mixture: g oz., Ingredients. g. (4 icing sugar, I cup) sugar, 4 4 egg egg whites, 125 g. oz., 1 cup) icing whites, Ingredients. 125 60 (2 oz., (2 oz., g. (2 gtound almonds, almonds, 60 60 g. oz., t cup) Bour, flour, cup) ground ffi g. oz., t I cup) e.Q I cup) 25 g. (l 2 tablespoons) melted butter, kirsch. 25 g. oz., 2 tablespoons) melted butter, kirsch. Q oz., Method whites preparation. Beat and the the egg egg wrutes Beat the the sugar sugar and Method of of preparation. en add over .over gentle ground gentle heat a firm firm meringue, meringue, th then add ground heat to to obtain obtain a almonds, half aa finally, melted melted butter butter mixed mixed with with half almonds, Bour flour and, and, finally, wine kirsch. Spread glass of a buttered and Boured floured baking baking wine glass ofkirsch. Spread on on a buttered and sheet. (350'F., Gas Bake in sheet. Bake in the the {)ven at 180e. 180"C. (350F., Mark 4) 4) for for Gas Mark 'oven at 50 minutes and and turn out onto onto aa wire wire tray. tray. 50 to to 60 6O minutes tum out Fit pipe, and piping-bag with a ftuted and fill fill with with unFit a a cloth cloth piping-bag with a fluted pipe, uncooked (l lb.) g. (l paste in proportion of in the 450 g. lb.) to to cooked almond almond paste the proportion of 450 450 (l lb.) (see (see ALMOND, paste 1). g. (lIb.) 450 g. 1). Pipe a latticelatticeALMOND, Almond Almond paste Pipe a work pastry, then pipe a in aa hot work over a border. Place in hot oyen oven over the the pastry, then pipe border. Place to our the jam paste. Coyer with thick thick apricot to col colour almond paste. apricot jam the almond Cover with and a pistachio each lozenge. put half pistachio nut lozenge. in the and put halfa nut in the centre centre of ofeach As paste border As an an alternative an almond almond paste apricot alternative to to an border use use apricot jam jam sprinkled sprinkled with chopped roasted roasted almonds. almonds. with chopped

ALBUNDIGAS - The (Mexican cookery) ALBUNDIGAS (M~xican cookery) The originof origin of albundigas appears to In Mexico Mexico it it to be be Spanish Spanish or or Mexican. In is is almost a a national national dish. Combine (l lb.) g. (l Ib.) finely finely choppedfillet Combine 450 450 g. chopped fillet of of beef beef and and 100 (a oz.) g. (4 100 g. oz.) fairly coarsely coarsely chopped chopped fat fat bacon. Season with with bacon. Season salt and pepper. Add a garlic and pepper.Add little crushed and a a teaspoon of of a little crushed garlic chopped parsley, and into thickish chopped parsley, and bind with an an egg. egg. Shape Shape into cakes. an ovenproof dish and and cakes. Fry in clarified butter. Put Put into ovenproof dish into an coyer for 20 20 minutes. sauce. Cook the oyen oven for minutes. in the cover with with tomato tomato sauce. Cook in Serve (see RICE). Rice criole (see Serve with Rice d la la crole RICE). Albundigas Albundigas can frorn a a mixture mixture of of veal veal and and can also also be be made made from pork. The me : The Mexicans also also have have a a soup soup called called by this na name: by this Ingredients. (5f pints, pints, 6t pints) light light stock Ingredients. For For 3 litres (st stock or or 3 litres 6| pints) water, take 225 g. (8 oz.) g. (8 pork, veal veal or 5 mediummediumtake225 oz.) fiUet fillet of of pork, or beef, beef, 5 sized 4 green peeled and garlic,4 green pimentos, pimentos, 3 and sized onions, 3 peeled onions, a a clove clove of of garlic, deseeded (2 oz., g. (2 2 tablespoons tablespootts oz., t deseeded tomatoes, 50 g. cup) butter, butter, 2 tomatoes, 50 I cup) (3 (3 tablespoons) amount of of sieved flour, the sieved the same tablespoons) wheat wheat ftour, same amount breadcrumbs, or, better better still, still, or thyme, thyme, or, breadcrumbs, I teaspoon teaspoon coriander coriander or marjoram, I I egg and 1 egg and a more more delicate delicate Bavour, flavour, 1 marjoram, which which has has a tablespoon tablespoon salt. salt.

ALCOHOL ALCOHOL
ALCOHOL. ALCOOL ALcooL - - Liquid Liquid obtained obtained by by distilling distilling ferferALCOHOL. mented liquors. liquors. mented In chemistry, chemistry, ail all organic substances composed organic substances composed of of carbon, carbon, ln hydrogen and and oxygen, oxygen, capable capable of of being being combined combined into into an an hydrogen acid to to form form an an ether, ether, are are defined defined as as alcohol. alcohol. We We shall shall deal deal acid only with with ethyl ethyl alcohol alcohol or or wine wine alcohol, alcohol, also alsocalled called wine wine only spirit. It It is principal product product of is the the principal of the the fermentation fermentation of of sweet sweet spirit. liquids formed formed by by the the double double decomposition decomposition of ofglucose under liquids glucose under yeast. This the action action of of yeast. This microscopic microscopic vegetable vegetable cell cell reproreprothe duces itself itself by glucose into by splitting splitting glucose into carbonic carbonic acid acid and and duces palatable and alcohol and and a a few few palatable and sweet-smelling sweet-smelling by-products. by-products. alcohol (See BEER, BEER, WINE.) WINE.) (See
mentco-ordination, co-ordination, congestion congestion of of the theface, face,overpowering overpowering ment drowsiness; Third Third degree: degree.'Loss Lossof of mobility, mobility, sensitiveness sensitiveness drowsiness; and will. will. and 2. Aeute Acuteintoxication intoxication -- Early Earlysymptoms symptoms the 2. thesame same as asin in period of inebriety, but the period but the ofexcitation excitation is isvery veryshort, short, resulting inebriety, resulting quickly in insomnolence, somnolence, which which can can develop developinto quickly into aacoma coma and and evendeath death through through cerebral pulmonarycongestion. cerebral or or pulmonary even congestion. 3. Chronie Chronic alcobolism alcoholism -- Repeated Repeated abuse abuseof of alcoholic alcoholic 3. produces Jesions liquids produces lesions of (gastritis), of of the the stomach stomach (gastritis), liquids of the the liver (cirrhosis), of (nephritis), and of the the kidneys kidneys (nephritis), and of ofthe the nervous liver(cirrhosis), nervous (delirium, neuritis). system (delirium, neuritis). system

Microscopic cells cells inducing inducing Microscopie alcoholic fermentation fermentation alcoholic

produced by Alcohol is juices is produced by fermenting fermenting natural natural sweet sweet juices Alcohol (grapes, apples, apples, sugar sugar cane, cane, beetroot, beetroot, etc.) etc.) or or amyloide amyloide (grapes, musts, which which have have been preliminary fermentasubjected been su to preliminary musts, bjected to tion which which transforms transforms the the starch glucose. Wort starch into into glucose. Wort of of tion (beer), potatoes, cereals (beer), potatoes, etc. etc. are are used. cereals The distillation distillation of these musts musts and produces spirits of these and worts produces The (q.v.); the the concentration concentration and and rectification rectification of of these these spirits (q.v.); produces industrial alcohols. alcohols. produces industrial per cent Absolute 100 per cent alcohol alcohol is product; it is is a a laboratory laboratory product; Absolute 100 a which boils 78.3'C. Because of of its its high a caustic caustic liquid, liquid, which boils at at 783C. water absorption potentiality potentiality it it must must be be treated with with great water absorption caution. caution. (medicinal) 95' Officinal a colourless, mobile, Officinal (medicinal) 95 alcohol alcohol is is a non-residual and a pleasant odour odour and non-residual liquid, liquid, volatile, volatile, with with a a pleasant burning 79.9"C.It burning taste; taste; it it boils boils at at 799C. It can be be mixed mixed with with water water in all ail proportions, proportions, with with contraction contraction (that (that is is to to say, say, the the total volume of the the mixture mixture is is lower lower than that of of the components) components) volume of and and with with emission emission of of heat. heat. 85' 85 alcohol alcohol is is commonly commonly called called 'three-six' 'three-six' (trois-six) (trois-six) because because three three parts parts of of this this alcohol, alcohol, mixed mixed with with an an equal quantity quantity of of pure pure water, water, produce produce six parts of of ordinary eaueaude-vie. de-vie. Alcohol Alcohol possesses possesses antiseptic antiseptic properties; properties; it it is a diffusible diffusible stimulant stimulant which which has has numerous numerous uses uses in in therapeutics. therapeutics. In ln its its chemical chemical composition composition alcohol alcohol approaches sugars sugars (l (1 molecule molecule of of glucose glucose is is split, split, by by fermentation, fermentation, into into 2 2 molecules molecules of of alcohol). alcohol). It It possesses possesses definite but but moderate moderate alimentary alimentary properties, properties, because because it it decomposes decomposes too too quickly quickly in the the organism, organism, and and the the energy energy released released can can only only be be used used to to a a small small degree, degree, mainly mainly because because it it becomes becomes a a toxic toxic substance substance when when taken taken in in large large doses doses (see (see ALCOHOLISM). ALCOHOLISM).

AIfi -- English English beer, lightly hopped beer, lightly hopped and and slightly stightly bitter. ALE bitter. It It is is used in in cooking cooking for for making making various various cheese cheese dishes, used dishes, notably notably (q.v.). for Welsh Welsh rarebit rarebit (q.v.). for Ale is is obtained obtained by by rapid rapid fermentation fermentation and Ale and acquires acquires strength on on maturing; maturing; fermented fermented small small beer, strength beer, on on the the other other hand, has has only only aa short life. Stout short life. porter are Stout and and porter hand, are brewed brewed from from grain; ale roasted grain; ale is grain in from grain is made made from in its its natural roasted natural state. state. It used used to to be be a a tradition tradition in in wealthy It wealthy English English families families to to celebrate the birth birth of of aa son son by by filling filling one celebra te the one or or more more barrels barrels of of ale, specially specially brewed brewed for for the the occasion. occasion. The ale, The barrels barrels were were hermetically sealed sealed and and not not opened opened until hermetically until the the son son and and heir heir reached his his majority. majority. On On this this memorable reached memorable day day -- called called the the 'coming of of age' age'friends, tenants tenants and and servants 'coming - friends, servants were invited were invited great repast, to a a great repast, which which concluded concluded with passing round to with the the passing round of of the splendid splendid twenty-one-year-old twenty-one-year-old ale. the ale. posset Ale posset (lf pints, Heat 1 pints, generous I litre litre (I~ generous quart) Ale quart) ale ale with with - Heat a little pinch ofpowdered little sugar, sugar, a of powdered gingerand ginger and grated q pinch grated nutmeg. a nutmeg. (l| pints, Boil 1 pints, generous I litre litre (l~ generous quart) quart) unskimmed milk Boil milk and and mix it, it, while while still still boiling, boiling, with mix with the the ale. ale. Toast and and ale ale An English Toast English beverage which which used used to to be be - An served in in win winter, after the the dinner, dinner, at served ter, after at the the same same time time as as the the cheese. Method. Bring (lf pints, generous quart) old Bring 1 I litre (li Method. ale, to to old ale, which a a coffeespoon coffeespoon of ginger has which has been added, to been added, to the the boil. jug with Pour it, it, whilst whilst almost almost boiling, into a boiling, into Pour a jug with a a metal metal lid lid containing a thick slice slice of bread toasted on both sides. containing sides. Leave the ale to to stand stand for a a short time before serving.
ALECTRYON large tree A large ALECTRYON tree of of which which the the best-known - A found in New Zealand. species is found Zealand. Its red red berries, berries, much Its prized for much prized pleasant acid for their their pleasant acid flavour, are usd used in the manufacture manufacture of refreshing beverages. beverages. An excellent oil is extracted from its seeds (and exported).

ALEMBIC. ALEMBIC.

ALAMBTc ALAMBIC

comprises comprises a cucurbit, or tinned copper boiler, with or withouta out a bain-marue, bain-marie, surmounted by bya with a serpentine, a cap with serpentine, i.e., a tin, or tinned copper, spiral coil coilleading leading from it.

Apparatus used for Apparatus used for distilling. distilling. It

Oldfashioned alembic alembic Old-fashioned

distinct forms: distinct forms: l. 1. Inebriety Inebriety - Occurring Occurring when wh en alcohol alcohol reaches reaches a a certain certain degree, degree, variable variable with with individuals, individuals, manifesting manifesting itself itself in in the the following manner: First First degree.. degree: Sensation Sensation of of well-being, well-being, following manner: stimulation stimulation of of the the intellectual intellectual faculties facuIties and and the the imagination, imagination, slight slight swelling swelling of of the the face; face; Second Second degree: degree: Mental Mental inincoherence, diminution of of muscular muscular strength, strength, lack lack of of movemovecoherence, diminution
8

ALCOHOLISM. ALCOHOLISM. arcoolrsME ALCOOLISME - Intoxication Intoxication produced produced by by the of liquids liquids containing containing alcohol. alcohol. There There are are three three the abuse abuse of

ALGERIA ALGERIA
Theliquidtobedistilledisputdirectlyintotheboiler(in The liquid to be distilled is put directly into the boiler (in the,bain' ofof top on oror alembic), a il naked-flame ofof thqcase naked-flame alembic), on top the hainthe case
The heated' is is then alembic The it.il. part ofof thatforms marie marie that forms part The alembic then heated. The pass into These vapours' alcoholic heatieleases the ofof a"tioo action the heat relcases alcoholic vapours. These pass into and il;;.t,tn. the serpentine(*tti"tt (whichisscooled cooledby byflowing flowingwater)' water), and heat the tota was method Charente tiaditional The condense. The traditional Charente method was heat the obtained' first "ond.rrr.. The fires. wood directly over alembics over wood fires. The firs!liquid liquid obtained, alembics through it it passing by redistilled be toto brouillis le /e brouil/is had he redistilled by passing through -rn.rik - -hud more. once alembic the the alembic once more. in the incorporatedbeen have improvements of AA number number of improvements havc been incorporated in the oh-fashionedalembictoenablealcoholtobeobtainedatthe old-fashioned alembic to enable alcohol to he oblained at the of the nrtt and to to ensure ensure continuous continuous feeding feeding of the first attempt, and "tt.-pt, apparatus. apparatus. . Traditionalists Tradtionaiisisinsist, insist, however, however, that thatthese theseimprovements tt""" 'boiler taste' taste' and and yield inferior inferior have onfy only increased increased the the 'boiler
re~iUlts. results.

as distilIn In industry, industry, more morecomplicated complicated apparatus, apparatus, such such as distilling lingtowers towerswith with rectifiers, rectifiers,etc., etc., are areused' used.

ALGAE.ALGuE_Plantswhichliveinwater.Thenutritive ALGAE. ALGUE - Plants which live in water. The nutritive m919 n"tu. value of of algae is is indubitable, indubitable, and and has has generally generally been been more the 1914 ;;G".ly proved proved than than that that of of fungi' fungi. During During the 1914

war, wu, these theS<.: ptants were were used used as as fodder fodder for for horses' horses. value of Recent Recent iesearch research has has confirmed confirmed the the dietetic dietetic value of it seems concerned' is human-beings feeding As far far as as feeding human heings is concerned, it scems atgae- As North use ih"at certain certain small small pririitive primitive tribes tribes in in the the extreme extreme North use scarce' algae nourishment when when food food is is scarce. algae as as emergency emergency nourishment. Scotland' in eaten are algae of varietiei or algae are eaten in Scotland. Several varietes S&"tat are used are are highly es-teemed esteemed in in the the Far Far East East and and are used as a Sasis for a large number numher of of widely widely marketed marketed foodstuffs' foodstuffs. that the (sea tangle) is from from ce.tain certain laminaria laminaria species species (sea tangle) that the It is are several there are kombus, for kombu, Japanese kombu, or or kombu.s, for there se veral called' so calle<!. SC2IW(:eO-o;asc:Q seiweed-based dishes so until thoroughly hours until1hl'.r"""nh for hours vinegar for in vinegar The algae are soaked in the leaves is of 1 skin of The skin air' The open air. the open in the and dried in saturatei and saturated, he leaves under' white the and knife, sharp a using off, strredaed itren then shredded off, a sharp knife, and the white underinto a crushed into and crushed then.dried is then ..."p"d. ThiJpulp fying pulp lying pulp s dried and a iltp scraped. according to geometrical.shapes small geometrical into small ot eut into powder, shapes according to io*?it, or essence' "ui anchovy essence, like anchovy rather like condiment, rather A condiment, iequirements. A fragments from fragments made from is made Japanese, is the Japanese, with the popular with u"iu.w very popular sauce' soy sauce. in soy boiled in pulp, boiled same pulp, this same of this of vegefish' vegewith fish, cooked with iscooked algae s these algae pirt of of these central part The central The made beverage made A beverage flavour' A tlieir flavour. enhance thcir to enhance soups to andsoups tables and tables is added to Kombu is rea. Kombu like tea. drunk like isdrunk kombu is prf"".isid kombu ir"_ pulverised from added to cut into often is It rice' for condiment a as used as a condiment for rice. ft is often eut stews^and and used into stews or thus'or consumed either and fire,and either consumed thus, byaa tire, a.i"O by unadried and water' boilingwater. inboiling momentsin fewmoments foraafew soakingititfor aftersoaking which they onewhich algae'one ofalgae, varietyof anothervariety eatanother Japanese eat TheJapanese The they dried in are these washed, being After artificially. Arter cultivate artificially. washed, these are dried in pieces' and used smallpieces, ".rtiGt" intosmall rou'rt"d, crumbledinto lightlyroasled, sun,Iightly thesun, and used the sauces. andsauces. souPs flavoursoups toflavour and to kantus'.a is in Japanis kantus, usedin oftenused productortcn algaeproduct Anotheralgae Another a halfshiny' white' of form in the g"Utitt" & oigi"" rottof glue or gelatine in the form of sort shiny, halfused like tapioca for Kantusisis flakes'Kan/us or shavlngs ;;;;.p"t.* ""'''''1 ...'''' . . ''' shavings or fiakes. used like tapioca for sauces'. and soups preparing jellies,soups and sauces. in the great faith '^irg"""iidietetics have Dieticianshave dietetics^_ great faith in the - Delicians inlong has man fact, in And, algae. of value nlllnl!''''''lll value of algae. And, in fact, man has long indiet' his in ""tiiTioour algae of varieties certain cluded cluded certain varieties of algae in his diet. recognise the first the were who Japanese the was ft It was the Japanese who were the first toto recognise the systemltic-ally' them exploit and algae uatue Oieltic ofoi algae and tato exploit them systematically. dietetic value bays in the cultivated porphyry genuslre the iea atga" ofof the porphyry are cultivated in the bays Red have beds algae of thousands Hirostrimi. and of i"r.-v" and Hiroshima. of have (lbeds to 2 vards) I to ocean' the edge trt" sprung up ono" the edge ofof the ocean, 1 to 22 m.m' to 2 yards) particular no presents cultivationpresents no particular surface.Gro*Cultivation below the surface. t-he y"at' through right continues harvest the and proUf"rn problem and the harvest continues right through the year. wayl.in variety wide a in algae consume Japanese The Japanese consume algae in a wide variety of9f ways: in The dishes' The various preparation the r"6;,ln-tui"at, soups, in salads, in in the preparation ofof various dishes. The heat' and a fierce over hardened tttinty, tii""O on"" u.. algae are often sliced thinly, hardened over a tierce heat, and

species-of chopped. This makes them easier to use' Various chopped.are This makes them easier to use. Various kombu' of manufacture the in base a as used iurniiuti" laminaria used asvegetable a base infor the manufacture or mixed with rice soup as a used it thenare ;hi;h which is then used as a vegetable for or mixed wiili rice for example' seasoned with soy sauce. bther species, kanten seasoned with soy sauce. Olher for example, are used inpdtisserie and confectionery' interest are n ptisserie and \"VJlU'-"'''Vlll..' algae are not simply a culinary expedient' and Butused in the But algae are not simply culinary expedient, andinterest countries; Eastern to aFar confine-d not in1t.*"i, food in themof is the not experts, confinedthey to Far Eastern a countries; the valuable in constitute opinioo opinion of the experts, they constitute a valuable food resource for the future. resouree the future. that chlorella, microscopic freshwater way this ir in for ft which, is in lhis way that ch/orella, microscopie rreshwaler themreproduce conditions, favourable undei aljae which, under favourable conditions, themsave our planet one day reproduce rapidity, may astonishing r.iu.t *ittt planet with astonisrung save our to write: E. and A. N".g.te have good reason itorn fu*ioe. proved from famine. E. and A.of liboratory animals reason write: :L;;;;;;laifeeding has to 'Experimental feedng of and energy animaIs proved chlorellae. value of has thJ food any doubt GVirO lipic and the food and value of chlorellae. beyond any doubt are rich in proteinic, that chlorellae iii""pp"r.nt It is that chlorellae areacceleraled cultivation will and and that substances, vitaminised It is vlt:amml:sed substances., and that will supplement' important-nutritional an with man provide provide man with an important nutritional supplement. H is with that cultivation traditional of replacing ; qr;iion replacing Iraditional eultivation with that not a question in the exploitation in useful maylome lattir but the of but the tter may come in zones'' usefuJ in the exploitation or semi-arid inlaarid of so-lar'energy globe energy in arid or semi-arid zones.' This meani that the underprivileged peoples of thc Trus means their that the underprivileged of elements the globe and trace quota of vitamins peoples receive could receive their quota of vitamins and trace elements "o"n which at present they entirely lack' which at present they entirely Jack.

ii

;;i ;i;G;,

ALGERIA.lrcfnn_Algeriaisanessentiallyagricultural

ALGER lA. ALGR - Aigeria is anwhere essentially cultivation cerealagreultural iell region in the i.p.cially t*n,r', while country, especially in the Tell region where cereal eultivation plains'

--tlg;. it ;;;; -

d.il*

;;;;*

"i ;t;;;G

ti,.

"ifr"

oredominates. Pasture lands extind to the high are landsunsuitable ex tend to the hgh plains, while agriculture for and land irr"-rnou"tuinsPasture mountains and land unsuitable for agriculture are considerable of therefore, a country, is It forest. with granaries' covered wi th forest. 1t s a country, therefore, of considera ble "ont..O resources. In ancient times it was one of Rome's one of Rome's resources. In ancient was barley' oats' wheat, cereal: of form il every times Atgeria has Algeria has etc. \theat form cereal: valued wheat, for the manuoats, especially is of .iff"t, -uirE, a produces maize, millet, etc. is valued for the manuit since products, semolina pasta and of i;;tut; of does facture pasta andswelling semolina since it of cooking' the process in products, while p".tt *fti.tt, pasta whieh, while swellng in the process of not lose its shaPe. ---ine not lose its shape. vineyards, work ofthc French colonists, are atgerian The Aigerian vineyards, work the French are are gradually They colonists, Algiers' andof Oian around situated riainly around Oran and of Mascara' are gradua!ly situated mainly Mostaganem The wines Oi-ini.f,i"g in number. diminisbing in number. The wines time of the and M6d6a are among the best known' Since the V.D.Q.S. and Mda are among the best known. Since time of the classified been have they administratio-n ri.n"r, and have French administration they been c!assified content V.D.Q.S. high alcohol of have (q.v.). They are generally of (q.v.). r.".pirflu"alities, are generally of high alcoho\ and have the providence thelrcontent mate. wtrictr good a."t"rs-who specialise which them the dessert grapes of Early blending. in make iin. wne specialise in blending. Barly are exported in June. are Plums, exported in June. and almonds are other equally early greengages as almonds are other equally early Plums, greengages fruits such Algerian the specifically theie areand Then fruits. dried fruits. Then there are the specifically such as two are The last fruits and figs' Algerian dates o.*nl.q tangerines, dates andquantities' figs. The last twoproportion are dried o.ranges, tangerines., A large considerable uiia &pottdin manuthe in and exported in considerable quantities. A large proportion locally are used tangerines g"t and irut oiitt" of the oranges and tangerines are used locally in the manufacture of liqueurs. faclure of liqueurs. farming produces excellent quality potatoes' Vegetable producespeas' excellent Vegetable farming carrots, melons' wa!e-rtomatoes, artichokes, beani in tomatoes, peas, carrots, waterbeans, artichokes, olives are cultivated (eggplints)' and aubergines m' 900 and aubergines (eggplants). Olives are cultivated in melons up to regions higher aliw in and regions itt. tittot"t the littoral regions and in a fewRefineries higher regions - upon to the 900 spot m. situated altitude. re-eg in 3000 iover3000 golde.n' (over in altitude. Refineries situated fruity' on the easy-fl9wing, quality-oil, very good produce a feet) of the oiL easy-tlowing, fruit y, and crustaceans coasts furnish all ihe'fish The a The coas(s . fish and crustaceans of the those to similar very mer de as/rzdts well as Mediterranean, Mediterranean, as weil asfruits de mer very similar to those ofProvence' on the coast found found on the coast Provence. feed on the pasture lands of the livestock of of ft"rds iuig. cattle, ofare livestock on the landsas of the Large herds many sheep as pasture ten times about feed There interiolr. for There arewhy about teo times asmany many more sheep recipes. as cattle, interior. explains so are there *tti.ft are so Algerian more recipes foras which there such animals' ndigenous -utton than for beif. a gastroIndigenous animais, such as camels and gazelles' appear on the menu more as in an appear on the menu more as a gastronomical curiosity than inyttring else, and are treated exceptional manner. anything else, and are treated in an exceptional manner. cooking is not so very different from that of Algerian cooking is not 50 very different from that of

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AE;;;.

ALGERIA
ALGERIA
Tunisia and Morocco. All three come under the heading of Arab cuisine. Tunisia and Morocco. Ali three come under the heading of Spices abound: absinth, verbena, basil, citron, gum Arab cuisine. resin, mint, sesame, pimentos, abound: absinth, verbena, basil, citron, gum *itf, resin, Spices etc. Dishes are flavouiJ ,r, el-hanout, a blend mint, sesame, pimentos, etc. Dishes are flavoured with ras of-twenty-seven different spices inseparably linked of twenty-seven different spices inseparel-hanoul, a blend with the feast oi Atd-et-Kibir. cuisine of Aid-el-Kbir. ablyArab Iinked with the feastcookery'. or 6tent cursrNE ARABE _ This type of food is simple CUlSINE ARABE - This Arab cuisine or 'tent and cookery'. healthyj the milk, oit, semotioa, .iJi d?r:1 vegetables, of food is simple andhealthy; the milk, oil, semolina, pasta products, condiments and meats go wrucn dates, vegetables, pasta products, and produce meats lnto its composition are condiments all excellent and easilygo digestible which into its composition are ail excellent and produce dishes. The easily digestible method dishes. of slaughter.used by the Arabs, consisting of seygringthe The methodneck, of slaughter used by the th. Arabs, of the.windpipe jugutar;;;r;; two consisting without the "nd h-fting severing neck, the windpipe and the two ii cimprete,-is the knife offuntil severance particularly without lifting knife off until severance tothe be recommended. n,ol1"t,,.,,I!1lrlv to eat be recommended. The Arabs only the flesh of animals; the blood is for_ bidden. Theeat the flesh ofwhich animais; the the blood is forKoran lays down foods e*U, permitted Theto Koran down which foodsanimals, the Arabs are bidden. eat. "* includes aquatic il; _This poultry and pennitted to all eat. includes ail birds, except "iithe birds aquatic of prey_animais, day or nocturnal poultry and ail birds, except birds o""n, of prey day or nocturnal animals, - all livestock cimels, ,h".p,'"t..,-*iin-t-fr" - exception ail livestock animais, camels, of pig and wild boar. oxen, sheep, etc., with the exception of pig and wild boar. The lawgiver advises his faithfur: 'Do not eat . The in a crouching 'Do not eat in a crouchhisas faithful: or lawgiver huddled advises position, this position inclines on. to .ut too or ing huddled as this inclinesas one to eat much, but sit at the table in position Juch a manner to appear always too much, but to get at the table in su ch a manner as to appear ready up., always ready to get up.' Arabs generally drink only once, after a meal, when a communal Arabs generally drink only once, after a meal, a vessel (guerba), containing spring watei when o, _if{ makes the round communal vessel (guerba), containing spring water or milk, of those participatiig in the meal. The the person makes round of thoseshourd participating in the into meal. drinking not bieathe the bowr The drinking not breathe into the bowl liquid; heshould must remove it from ni, fip, U"for. ::i9iTi"g.,he co:nUllln:mg thebreathe liquid; again. be must remove it from his before oegmrung to Then he may resume drinkine. A be~~mrurlg to breathe Then he cup of coffee and a pipe of tobacco coffee a meal of the "i*"y" """.i"J.'l'rr". true and Arab. of the true Arab. Coffee, a Moslem beverage, is the inseparable companion Coffee, a Moslem beverage, is the inseparable companion 9f tglu:l (they constitute the two great pt"urur.r'oi it of tobacco constitute the two great pleasures of the rt- is (they very rich in tonic substanr"r uno trt.irior. " ,{rab)' u..y rich in toniethe substances and therefore very Arab). It is beneficial in very a country where summer temperature varies beneficiaJ in a where the summer temperature varies between 25'C. and 50"C. (77"F. and 122.F.). between 25C. and The tea hour and is a ritual. There is mint tea, absinth and sage teaThe teawith hour is a ri tuaI. basil and is mint tea, laced marjoram, ambergri, 1un uro_"ti. tea lacedserved with with ambergris basil balls and ambergris lnruslon mounted in silver is the infusion served ambergris balls mounted ultimate refinement) ultimate refinement). Arabs drink no wine; the Koran forbids it. Arabs drink no wine; the Koran forbids it. One of the authors of the commentaries to the Koran, Sidi One of the authors the commentaries the Koran, Sidi Dylaleddine, thinks, of prophet however, that theto *rrt Dylaleddine, thinks, however, that the Prophet simply wanted to forbid excessive wine drinking, and that *in, i, wanted toprovided forbid excessive drinking, permitted one doeswine not get arunk. and that wine is pennitted one doessaid: not .Eat drunk. Another, provided one better, and drink, but with-going going better, and drink, but without Another, excess, for Godone loves not him who commits excess., .When out excess, for God loves not him who commits excess.' Arrb gastronomical customs _ the food is-s"rueO,, Arab gastronomieal customs 'When the food is served,' EJ SV.aut6,.'help yourself from around tfre eage ofifrl :?f El qrsn, Syaut, 'help yourself from around the edge teavrng the middle, as the blessing of heavenof the leaving the middle, as the blessing of heaven will will descend upon it.' descend upon of. it.' hospitality. are rigorously observed by the .,1|11-11*,.. The laws bo~;pitalit:y by the rvroslems. lt a of stranger, be he we]l or poorly dressed, upp"urc If a stranger, or of Moslems. at the entrane to a tent, or at the door a t ou*",'unO'urt, at the entrance the to a master tent, or of at the house, asks for hospitality, the door household i_;;;;i; for hospitality, the master of the household immediately answers: 'Be welcome,, and bids him enter, indicatinj and which bids him enter, indicatinga a answers: 'Becarpet welcome,' o1 the nla99 or mat covers the floor. Im_ place on the carpet or mat which covers the tloor. Immediately, the visit is treated as a festive occasion mediately, the avisit as a festive occasionand andthe the guTt is offered cup is oftreated coffee or tea and whatever there is iseat. offered a cup of coffee or tea and whatever there is guest ready to to eaL _H_ospitality is the duty of every good Moslem. of every good Moslem. When a Moslem family offers ybriro.rln esselmenor some you sorne messe/men or sorne y.baa1-el garroussa (cakes in thi fo.m oi tapering fingers or of tapering fingers or sebaas-el aarroussa in the fonn biscuits shaped like small hands) it is-; ,ig' tt-"t t;;;;; biscuits shaped like smaU hands) it is a sign that you are welcome. welcome. The pattern ofthe hand seen on the cakes, on the tents. on the tents, on The pattern of the hand seen on the cakes, on
the walls, windows and doors of Moslem houses, issymbol a symbol the walls, windows and doors of Moslem hou ses, is a of power and has an historical significance. of power and has an historical significance. Moses, having changed his rod into a serpnt, showed cbanged his rod into a serpent, showed hishis ,Moses, having Pharaoh, bear witness po*.r.-fn. 114^tl hand to Pharaoh, as as if if to to bear witness to to hishis power. Tbe faithful th's adopted the symbol of the hand of Moses faithful thus adopted the symbol of the hand of Moses as as a a protection from the evil eye. protection from the evil rigid period of fasting, the Ramadan, prescribed of the Ramadan, is is pre:scrlbf:d A y1ry .-A ror a,, Mosrems during alr daylight hours of the.n^ti.. month hours of the month of Ramadan, which is the ninth-month of the fvfonammeOan month of the Mohammedan year. year. The word Ramadan comes from a verb meaning rain, The word Ramadan cornes from a verb meaning toto rain, because washes away the sins of the flesh and .t.""nr", washes away the sins of the flesh and cleanses the because it it lt. heart of its impurities. heart of its .rn.nllf,tll'<;: The period of fasting was laid down by Mohammed, _ The during second year oithe Hegira, to sanciify by,;Eious during the second year observance the memory of what-happened toit. fi;f;; observance the when he ate the forbidden fruit. Ad'am, banished when he ate the fruit. fro. tfr" Garden of Fden, cried bitterly, but his iepentance Garden of Eden, cried bitterly, but his repentance was not was not by God until thirty days after iri,fall, fall,when lccgltedby God untl thirty accepted days al' ter his *h;;rus il; body had been cleansed of the impurities with body had been c1eansed of the impurities with wruch whichhis his disobedienoe had tainted him, and posterity wasthus disobedience had tainted him, and posterity was thusconcon. demned to a consecutive fast of thiriy days year. demned to a consecutive fast of thirty aa year. During themonth month ofRamadan Ramadanthe the-Moslems must must of abstain the abstain ^ from drinkand andtobacco tobaccol'rom fromsunrise sunriseto tosunset. sunset. l'rom food,drink NorthAfrica, Africa,where Islam is isthe predominatingreliyhergIslam thepredominating In North .In reli_ gion, burst of artilery fire announces to the faithfu]that gion, aaburst of artillery fire announces to the faithful th;t Ramadan has commenced. During the ensuing Ramadan has commenced. During the ensuing thirty tfrirtydays auy,a single cannon shot fired firedeach each evening at " atsunset sunset signaIs single cannon shot signalsthe the "u"iing end offasting for that day. end of fasting for that day. Ramadan ends ends with with pantagruelian feasts, feasts,called Ramadan ia-e/called A Aid-etKibir, which which somewhat somewhat ."r".ibl, the the Christian Christian Christmas Kbir, Christmas dinner. Moslems who cannot cannot celebrate celebrate this this feast feast at dinner. Moslems who at home home gather together in Moorish caf6s. gather together in Moorish cafs. Culingry specialities specialities of of Nortb North AfricaAfrica _ Culinary Adssida. Flour Flour boiled boiled in in water, water, then then mixed mixed with Assida. with butter. butter. Basco-utou. Spanish Spanish loaf loaf made made of of egg yolks, flour egg yolks, BascoulOu. flour and and orange blossoms. blossoms. orange Bissar. Drid beans cooked in water and and oil Bissar. Dried beans cooked in water oil until until they they form a a sort eaten hot hot or or cold. form sort ofjelly; eaten head a brisk fire to remove Bouzel/ouf he ad singed on a remove ,,Bgulellou!..Sheep's au with oil, ail hatrs; hairs; boiled, boiled, then seasoned witb oil, vinegar, vinegar, salt, pepper pepper and and garlic. garlic. Breyes beylicales. beylicales. Little Little squares of of cooked semolina semolina mixed .Bleyes with pistachio almonds. with pistachio nuts, nuts, walnutJ walnuts and almonds. Brik.Eggs Brik. Eggs in in puffpastry puff pastry fried fried in in oil. oil. Cacao. Cacao. Little Little reddi*-brgy reddish-brown lozenges lozenges made made from from sugar, sugar, pistachio pistachio nuts, nuts, almonds almonds and and lemon lemon essence. "i"o"". Chekchuka. A dish Chekchuka. A dish made made of of sweet sweet or or strong strong peppers, peppers, tomatoes, tomatoes, baby baby marrows marrows _(zucchini) (zucchini) or or auU"rglnir-ffi aubergines (eggplants), plan ts),-cut cut in in pieces pieces and and fried fried in in olive olive oit oil *ttiguiit with garlic u?"0 and onion, and onion, the the whole wholeeither eithermixed mixed with with beaten beaten eggs, eggs, or or not, not, and cooked cookedfor for aa few few minutes minuteson on aa slow slow fire. fire. Cherb-a-bel-fnft. Green Greencorn corn soup. soup. Djendjelem. A whitish, whitish, soft soft_pastl, made made of ofsugar, sugar, ginger, ginger, starch and andaapinch pinchof ofpepper. pepper.It is isbought boughtready--madi. ready-made. of rice, chopped chopped meat meat Dolma. Highly Highly seasoned seasoned mixture mixture oirice, lolrya. and andonions. onionsyrapped wrappedin incabbage cabbageleaves, leaves,covered coveredwith withwater water and andcooked cookedin inaacasserole casserolewith-fire with firebelow belowand andabove. above.simii;; Similar to Turkishdolma. dolma. toTurkish Douara. Douara.Boiled Boiledpluck pluckand andtripe tripeseasoned seasonedwith withcumin cuminand and

sprces.

Guizada. A A kind kindof ofscalloped scallUIPOO little liUlecookie cookiemade madefrom from semolina and eggs, baked in the oven. oven. and semolina Homse. and coated with honey. friedand Homse.Little balls of phste friod coated with honey. Kabab. Mutton cut cut into squares, braised Kabab. Mutton braised io in butter, seasoned with salt and pepper an-d served seasoned with salt and pepper served liberally garnished liberally with sliced onions and parsley. and parsley. with sliced onions Kefta.Chopped and spiced mutton, Kefta. Chopped and spiced mutton, shaped into rissoles shaped into rissoles

f"tC g";iJ;;

l010

ALIMENT ALIMENT
and grilled grilled over over a a wood wood fire. fire. and mutton cooked cooked in in oil oil and and fat fat and and thus th us prepreKhali'. Dried Dried mutton Khali'. served. served. LianL Lamb stew stew with with chick chick peas, peas, seasoned seasoned with with wild wild Liani. Lamb parsley. parsley. Pastry lozenges lozenges stuffed shlffed with with dates. dates. Makrouda. Pastry Makrouda. M'darbel. Mixture Mixture of of fried fried baby baby marrows marrows (zucchini) (zucchini) and and M'darbel. !ittle pieces of of beef beef fried fried in in oil oil seasoned seasoned with with hot hot pimento pimento and and little a dash ofvinegar. of vinegar. a Chickenfricasse with with chick chick peas. peas. Mekechter. Chicken/ricassie Mekechter. Merga. Strongly Strongly spiced spiced stock stock made made of of mutton'or mutton'or chicken, chicken, Merga. or both, both, which which the the Arabs Arabs drink drink only only when when it it is is very very cold or or in or of illness. cases ofillness. cases Cake made made from from milk, milk, semolina, semolina, pistachio pistachio nuts, nuts, M'habia. Cake M'habia. walnuts and and pine nuts. nuts. walnuts pasta and tomatoes. M'hamsa. Soup with with pasta M'hamsa. Mokh. Sheep's brain and and tongue, seasoned with garlic, Mokh. parsley. cayenne pepper and wild parsley. cayenne made from from chopped chopped sheep's sheep's pluck Osbane. Forcemeat made Osbane. and meat, mixed mixed with rice, rice, seasoned seasoned with red red pepper and and stuffing sheep's intestines. intestines. spices. Used for stuffing J'{II'Y1-lJer-lelrTGSS A stew made of of gazelle meat and Saharan Saharan Rim-bel-terfa,rs. truffles (Saharan dish). trufres Mixture of chopped mutton and onions seasoned seasoned Sferia. Mixture with salt, salt, pepper and and cumin. These These are are shaped into !iule little with fried in butter. butter. balls, dipped in egg and fried Tadjin helou. Very delicate stew made of mutton or beef, quinces. ve~et,lbl(!s in and a a few few quinees. or raisins and vegetables in season, season, prunes or covered with pie pastry and and cooked in the oyen. oven. This is covered Terbia-bel-hebar. Macdoine of vegetables served with a with a Terbia-bel-hebar. Macidoine (little bustard or field duck). roast bustard (!iule Tleitli. Macaroni garnished with chopped chopped meat and baked Macaroni garnished eggs. eggs. Tomina. in an an earthenware Tomina. Coarse cooked in Coarse semolina semolina cooked and boiling honey. casserole and plunged into butter and petals, rose petaIs, Yubbo. Cake made from honey, olive oil, rose ftour flour and dandelions. Other much-valued palm milk; Other specialities include lagni, lagni, much-valued leben, and kfir k6fir made from cow's, cow's, leben, which is nothing but whey; whey ; and goat's goat's or rahatloucoum, sahleb, sahleb, chreyba, rahatloucoum, or sbeep's sheep's milk; chreyba, rogagues, messelmen, dates, etc. makroutes, stuffed stufed dates, etc. messelmen, makroutes, (in its And forms), several forms), its several list tadjins (in And when we add to to this list we add (see mchoui its various accompaniments (see michoui and and couscous couscous with its COUSCOUS) Israeli and Israeli of Tunisian and delicacies of and the the delicacies COUSCOUS) and cuisine, need not not cookery need African regional cookery we realise realise that that African cuisine, we fear more sophisticated metropolitan with more fear comparison comparison with cusine. cusine.
garnish, ALGRIENNE (A L') a garnish, is the the name name of of a L') -- This This is ALGfRIENNE ( aplpl!c:able tomatoes principally to of small tomatoes to meaL meat. It It consists consists ofsmall applicable nnnf',r.",II" potato croquettes, or sweet potato croquettes, or accompanied by by sweet braiSed in oil acc;onlpamHX1 in butter. butter. sweet potatoes cooked in This This rago,fit ragot is is a country country dish dish called called alicot alicot rn in dialect. dialect. The The etymological etymological root root is is retained retained in in all aU its its various various forms: forms: ali, a/i, wings; wings; cait, cuit, cooked.

root alt to cause to to grow. grow. The The Celtic root ait means means nourishment. nourishment. The The word word 'aliment' 'aliment' indicates indicates an an object, object, while while the the word word

ALIMENTALIMENT - Derived Derived from from the the Latin Latin word word alere:to alere: to nourish, nourish,

ALICA were very Romans were which the the Romans of porridge of of which A sort ALICA -- A sort of fond. (hard or wheat, what durum wheat, spelt (hard or durum It was wils prepared with spelt fond. It today a sort sort of of clay clay mixed with with a known as wheat) mixed as German German wheat) today is is known (creta) (creta\ found hill of of Naples on on the the hill and Naples Pozzuoli and found between between Pozzuoli Leucogee Alica. (Pliny). A from Alica. was also also made made from A drink drink was Leucogee (Phny). It sesterces to to 20,000 sesterces rent of of 20,000 a rent said that Augustus paid a It is is said that Augustus the (Creta in n to this this clay. clay. (Creta Neapolitans for for the the exclusive right to the Neapolitans Latin ans both 'clay' and and 'chalk'.) Latin me means both 'clay' ALICANTE (vtN D') A very very well-known well-known o') -- A WINE. ALICANTE ALIcANTE (VIN ALICANTE WINE. dessert province of This is is Alicante. This of Alicante. wine from from the the Spanish Spanish province dessert wine also variety of of red red given in the midi midi of of France France to to aa variety also the the name name given n the grape (known, too, as Grenache). grape (known, Grenache). too, as ALICUIT (principgiblets (princip(Languedoc cookery) of giblets Ragofrt of cookery) -- Ragot ALICUIT (Languedoc ally prepared as gszzards and as described described in in the the wings) prepared ally turkey and wings) turkey gizzards recipe (see GIBLETS). giblets bonne-femme bonne-femme (see GIBLETS). recipefor for Turkey Turkey giblets
Il ll

'nourishment' 'nourishment' indicates indicates an an action, action, although although the the latter latter is is often employed as a synonym of 'aliment'. 'aliment'. Any Any substance substance which upon entering the the body is is capable of supplying supplying it it with materials materials for for growth or or repair repair and and with fuel for its energy energy requirements is an aliment. aliment. Simple aliments aliments are are those that the organism consumes consumes and absorbs hc,..... }.", without ",;t!"... "t first submitting them them to to modification modification;; water, (see which is of of considerable considerable alimentary importance (see which is in this substances WATER), WATER), and sea salt are about the only :ou ILJ:>L,alllvC;:O in category. must begin we must To study study the To the aliments aliments we begin by selecting the genuinely alible of each each one one and proceed to alible elements elements of elementary consider as eleme:nUlry examine examine them individually. Today we consider (that is of carbon, is substances of aliments, ternary substances (that substances are always hydrogen hyd rogen and oxygen). These ternary su bstances are the carbomineral elements, elements, namely the associated with with other mineraI (also called zirrocalled nitrofats and and quaternary substances (also hydrates, fats gmous substances nitrogen combines combines witb with the substances because because nitrogen genous are and oxygen). oxygen). Quaternary substances are carbon, hydrogen and carbon, (formerly called proteids or proteins (formerly To these called albuminoids). albuminoids). To (simple, ternary and quaterand quaterthree broad classes of aliments (simple, and vitamins. mineral substances substances and add minerai nary) we must add and sugars. sugars. starches and Carbohydrates are represented by the starches animal tissues, tissues, quantities present in in sorne some animal small quantities from small Apart from the digestive action of of the The action all of of vegetable origin. The these are ail glucose which by is absorbed by which is ferments transforms them into glucose fennents glycogen or or liver into into glycogen the liver by the then condensed condensed by the blood, blood, then the the little by little little to to meet the down Ettle is broken down starch. This This is animal starch. animal decomposition of this this decomposition The final final stage stage of requirements. The body's requirements. illnesses the the proyields water and In certain certain illnesses acid. In and carbonic carbonic acid. products and intermediary intermediary pn.)UUl,;lS is arrested arrested and cess of of decomposition decomposition is cess quantity of of (acids) which When the the quantity the blood. blood. When remain in in the which remain form (acids) fonn a a level level as as a too high a glucose circulating reaches too in the the blood blood reaches circulating in glucose part of it is eliminated of il eliminated transformation, part result of of inadequate inadequate transformation, result is Such is (which normally any). Such not con contain does not normally does in the the urine urine (which in tain any). in diabetes. diabetes. case in the the case fats. These These carbohydrates into into fats. can transform transform carbohydrates The body body can The interchangeable. to an an extent extent interchangeable. two aliments aliments are are therefore therefore to two glycerine of glyeerine fatty bodies are esters: esters: compounds compounds of or fatty bodies are The fats fats or The present in are present in both both fatty bodies fatty acids. acids. Alimentary Alimentary fatty bodies are and fatty and ferments kingdoms. The The digestive digestive ferments and vegetable vegetable kingdoms. the animal animal and the themselves to to which then then reconstitute reconstitute themselves decompose the the fats, which decompose and laid dOWll down in in the the tissues tissues and fats. The fat fat is is th then form organic fats. en laid form body and is is utilised utilised by by the the body in the cellular tissue, tissue, and the cellular especially in \.<"k-''''''''''Y is not not the fat fat thus thus laid laid in' idreserve needs. When When the according to to its its needs. according reserve is quantity by in the the the body, it accumula accumulates by the body, it used in in sufficient sufficient quantity used tes in results in in obesity. obesity. and tissues tissues and and results organs and partially replaced in in the the diet diet by carbocarboFats may be be partially diet the diet are not not absolute equivalents equivalents and the hydrates, but these these are hydrates, fats minimum of of 70 70g. oz.) fats must contain contain aa minimum adult must of an an adult of QLoz.) S. (21 it must must insummer but it may he decreased in sr,rmmer but daily. This This amount amount may be decreased daily. (l oz.) g.(l (1* perday, oz.) which 25 25g. g. (1 day, of of which a0 g. oz.) per never fall fall below below 40 never t oz.) animal fat. fat. should beanimal should be part of of certain certain organs, and forms aa normal normal part fat forms Although Although fat too, are are constitutive constitutive elements of although although carbohydrates, carbohydrates, too, is principal function twoelements elements is function ofthese of these two theprincipal certain certain tissues, tissues, the is that the the body body is provide energy. to them them that It is is thanks thanks to to to provide energy. It capable physical exertion maintaining its its,,,,,,,,,,,",r,,_ temperaand of of maintaining exertion and capable of of physical as,",V'''U'''''Ll combustives, therefore, mainly as are considered, considered, therefore, ture. Theyare ture. in ..u ..'",t,,nf aliments, theoxygen oxygenin it is is through the aliments, since since it respiratory or as r"<: iseffected. bustion is effected. the air thattbis this corn combustion

ALIMENT ALIMENT
Theoretically, fats fats decompose decompose into into carbonic carbonic acid acid and and Theoretically, (like the water (Iike the carbohydrates); carbohydrates); but in certain but in certain illnesses illnesses this this water decomposition stops stops at at one one of of several several intermediate intermediate stages stages decomposition and the the resulting resulting excess excss of of fatty fatty acids acids found found in in the the blood blood and constitutes one one of of the the factors factors of of acidosis. acidosis. constitutes The albuminoids albuminoidsQtroteinic quaternary substances) or quaLernary substances\ concon(proteinic or The tain carbon, carbon, hydrogen, hydrogen, oxygen principal elements, oxygen as as their their principal elements, tain and a a fourth fourth -- rutrogen. nitrogen. Their Their chemical chemical composition composition is is and (see ALBUMINOIDS). extremely complex complex (see ALBUMINOIDS). Under Under the the extremely influenoe of digestive elements of digestive elements they they are are subjected subjected to to a a series series influence of modifications modifications which production of which terminate terminate in in the the production of of albumins; these these are are used used in in the constitution constitution of of our our tissues. tissues. albumins; organism uses partly as the albuminoids The organism uses the albuminoids partly as energy energy The principally to factors, but growth and but principally to aid aid growth and in in the the reparation factors, of our our tissues. tissues. of Unlike carbohydrates carbohydrates and fats, fats, albuminoids albuminoids do do not underUnlike go total total deeomposition; decomposition; in in eight cases cases out of of ten ten this stops at at go theurea stage, the remainder being eliminated in the the form form of of the urea stage, various nitrogenous nitrogenous substances, sorne some ofwhich of which have still still not not various been determined. determined. been (the great Deficiencies of great transformer of the the liver liver (the transformer of nitronitroDeficiencies genous substances) or (the great great eliminators or of of the the kidneys kidnep (the eliminators genous of the proteins, or the same) cause cause proteins, products of disintegraor their their products of tion, to accumulate accumulate in in the blood and a serious disorder called called tion, (of which azotaemia results results (of which uraemia is is a a modification). modification). ln In azotaemio instances, the other instances, the urine is found found to to contain contain substances it it other not ta ougbt not to contain contain such such as as aminic acids or even albumins ought (ahuminuria'1. (albuminuria). group alsa albuminoid group The albuminoid also comprises related subcomprises closely related The known as as proteidae which are are albumins combined stances known proteidae which with a a carbohydrate carbohydrate to form a a paranucleine with to fOTm paranuc/eine (paranucleoQtaranucleoproteides). proteides). 'albuminoids' are Finally, classod as as 'albuminoids' are non-proteic non-proteic nitronitroFinally, classed genous substances gelatine, keratin, substances like like ge1atine, genous keratin, etc. Minerals,too, are indispensable Minerais, too, are indispensable elements of of our alimenta(sea salt) tion. Sodium chloride chloride (sea mineral used alone tion. Sodium salt) is is the only minerai in state; the occur as of various elements of in its its natural natural state; the others oceur as elements various (probably the compounds only form fonn in which they they are compounds (probably the only in which assimilable) combined with albuminoids, carbohydrates carbohydrates assimilable) with the albuminoids, and and fats fats of of our our natural natural foods. We know the tbe approximate approximate needs needs of of the organism organism as as regards regards We know certain daily in certain chemical chemical substances substances that tbat are are eliminated eliminated daily ponderable The excreLa, excreta, for example, remove ponderable quantities. quantities. The for example, from 4-75 body each day on average average 7 g. g. soda, soda, 4 75 g. g. potasfrom the the body sium, sium, 1.25 125 g. g. calcium, calcium, 1.63 163 g. g. phosphorus, phosphorus, 0.5 05 g. g. magnesia, magnesia, quantity of 0.05 005 g. g. iron, Iron, 0.05 0-05 g. g. sulphur, sulphur, as as well weil as as a a small quantity of chloride chloride and and traces traces of of manganese, manganese, bromine, bromine, iodine, silica and and fluorine. fluorine. Other Other elements elements enter enter into into alimentation alimentation in imponderable say that Imponderable quantity, quantity, which which does does not not mean mean to to say their their r6le rle is is insignificant; insignificant; in in fact fact there is is a probability probability that we we may may find nnd among among these these imponderables mponderables an explanation expia na Lion for for the part vitamins vitamins play play in in the the diet. diel. For For example, example, recent recent the part research that vitamins vitamins act as as coenzymes coenzymes (or (or research has has revealed revealed that codiastases) codiastases) and and are are therefore therefore involved involved in in the the degradation degradation or or resynthesis resynthesis of of the the various various nutriments. nutriments. Remineralisation Remineralisation experiments have been been carried carried out with witb animals. That is is to to say, say, the the principal principal minerals minerais have have been been animais. That removed from their their alimentation alimentation and replaced replaced by complex complex removed from mineral minerai mixtures. mixtures. These These experiments experiments invariably invariably failed when chemically chemically pure pure salts salts were were used; used; positive positive results results were obob tained tained using using less-well-purified less-well-purified salts, which which shows the the important portant r6le rle impurities impurities (i.e., (i.e., the the imponderable im ponderable traces traces of of certain certain elements) elements) play play in in the tbe diet. Most Most of of the the chemists chemists who who have have analysed analysed the the aliments aliments have have determined detcrmined their their total total mineralisation mineralisation by by reducing reducing them them to to the the form of ash. ash. This This calls calls for for complicated complicated calculations calcuJations and and form of gives gives far far from from accurate accurate results results when when the the final final figure figure is i5 applied applied to to fresh fresh foods, foods, such such as as those those we we consume consume daily. daily. This This is explained explained not not only only by diversity of by the the diversity the methods of the methods ememis (in the ployed, but but also also (in animal) by the animal) by the the differences differences arising arising ployed, from the the race, race, feeding feeding and and cuts cuts considered; considered; in in the the vegetable. vegetable, from the variety, variety, the the soil soil in in which which it has been been cultivated, it has cultivated, the the the part analysed. fertiliser used, analysed. used; the the part fertiliser M. R. R. Berg Berg has has calculated calculated the the figures figures for for cabbages cabbages in in the the M. table. accompanying table. CABBAGES GATHERED GATHERED CADDAGES in March March in Decemba December in in

potassium Oxide of of potassium Oxide

of sodium sodium Oxide of
lime Oxide of lime

0.5067 05067

0.6748 06748
0.0640 00640 0.1596 01596

iron of iron Oxide of

anhydride Phosphoric anhydride

0.0330 0.1730 01730 0.22t6 02216 0.5833 05833

00330
0.5833 05833 0.6550 06550

0.2870 02870
0.0287 00287 0.2569 02569 0.4445 04445

Sulphuric anhydride Chlorine

cent of offresh substances fresh substances Per cent is made of the Figures vary according to whether analysis is leaves, the the interior leaves leaves or or the the buds buds of the the vegevegeexterior leavcs, table. Basic Basic elements predominate in in the exterior, exterior, whereas interior leaves and, in particular, the the buds, are distinctly the interior acid. ratio and the ratio and proportion of Cooking procedures modify the mineral salts primarily by dissolving the alkaline elements, minerai pieoe of so that that if if a a piece of beef in which the acid elements the acid elements presa in which dominate is boiled an an alkaline alkaline stock can can be obtained. effect of cooking is even more more marked with vegetables. The elTeet of cooking Blanching (prerequisite in in the manufacture of tinned food) reduces the mineral minerai content of vegetables and destroys destroys the minerals. Prolonged boiling has an even more damagbasic mineraIs. ing effect. The effects are less iog elTect. effecls of other methods of cooking cook.ing are Jess drastic since sine thejuices the juices released by the the vegetable vegetable are usually usually consumed consumed with it. iL

TOTAL IN: COOKING /N: TOTAL MINERAL MINERAL TOSS LOSS DURING DUR/NG COOK/NG
Water per cent cent

Water

Oil per cent cent

30.59 3059 31.33 3133

Fat Fat per cent cent

20.91 2091

Butter Butter

per cent cenl

19.65 1965

49.95 Carrots Carrots 4995 Potatoes 66.74 6674 Potatoes 66'67 Onions Onions 6667 Carrots 52.05 5205 Carrots Potatoes 57.61 5761 Potatoes Onions 66'67 Onions 6667

52'38 5238
60

42.85 4285

47.25 4725
23.97 2397

53.M 5344

LOSS OF POTASSIUM SALTS

14.38 1438

22.60 2260

20-46 20-46
13.33 1333

l1151 l.5l 19.16 1916

tt.97 1197
26.67 2667

Some have shown shown how how the the total total loss loss of Sorne experiments have minerals minerais and and potassium salts varies according aceording to 10 different dilTerent cooking cooking procedures. procedures. Artificial Artificial aliments aUments - Natural foods that that have have been been prepared industrially are not not included included under under this heading heading (they pared industrially will with later). later). Here Here we we are referring to aliments aliments will be dealt with that that have have been been chemically treated treated in order to make them more more digestible digestible or or more more easily easily assimilated: assimilated: there there are are many many of them. them. Among Among the the nitrogenous rutrogenous substances substances are are purified purified albumins, albumins, legumin, legumin, albumoses albumoses and and peptones. peptones. All AU these these proproducts can can be be prescribed prescribed therapeutically therapeutically but but their their prolonged prolonged use use inevitably inevi ta bly leads leads to to disorders; disorders; they they have have never ne ver succeeded succeeded in supplementing natural natural foods foods in in the the adult diet. diet. As As far as as in supplementing children those children are are concerned, co ncerned , modified modified artificial artificial foods foods are are those most most frequently frequently used, used, dextrined dextrined and and malted malted flours, flours, etc. etc.

l2 12

ALIMENT
Chemical aliments - We We must must not not forget forget that that even even if if albuminoids, albuminoids, carbohydrates carbohydrates and fatty fany bodies are elements elements of our alimentation, alimentation, they they are are not not aliments. Aliments have have a (apart from traditional traditional form form and and are are borrowed borrowed (apart from a a few minerals) mineraIs) from the animal or vegetable kingdoms; the three three are merely constituents of aliments aliments (along elements listed listed are elements with a few indigestible with a few indigestible substances such such as as cellulose). The presence of of cell ulose besides besides providing bulk has been been proved cellulose after after exhaustive research research to ta be be indispensable indispensable in in the the accomplishment complishment of phenomena. of digestive phenomena. An aliment contains, or Complete aliment that that contains, or is Complete aliment aliment - An reputed to contain, alimentary substances in the containn the various alimentary right only practically complete right proportions. proportions. Milk Milk is is the the only food (as far as babies are concerned) and even it is deficient in Vitamin C. Some of the &onomy aliments - Sorne the substances we occasionEconomy aliments ally describe in this way have, like Iike cocoa and chocolate, real tea, coffee, act food value; others, such food value; such as as tea, coffee, coca-cola, only act through the nervous excitation excitation they provoke. It is arguable whether or not the ingestion of these these substances can increase the energy output stances output ofa diet, but they can, appease, the sensaunder certain conditions, conditions, calm or falsely appease, tion of hunger and and impart a feeling of well-being. Nuhitive Nutritive value of certain elements - Bearing in in mind the various elements in the the normal importance normal diet importance of the various elements in of the (albumins, carbohydrates, fats, etc.) an aliment will be more nourishing the more fatty fa Ity bod ies it contains, for these are nourishing the bodies richest, riches t, volume for volume, in calories. calories. The mutual mu tuaI substitution tables tables of various groups of aliments (see below) give sorne some indication of the relative values of certain aliments of vegetable origin. We Wc have of of animal and vegetable Randoin, MM. Legallic, Causerets and to thank Mme. Lucie Randoin, Duchne for them. G. Duchoe G. as basic Meat, milk, milk, butter and and bread have have been Meat, been taken taken as elements in in these The compilers compilers have these substitution substitution tables. tables. The clements

6. Beverages: Beverages: 6. (a) (b) (c) (c) (d)

water fruit juices juices alcoholic drinks alcoholic aromatic aromatic drinks.

aliments than to tive tive to to the the weight weight of aliments to their their volume. volume. The the total diet (beverages excluded) ranges weight of the total diet rauges from weight g. for a little 1500 1800 g. 1500 to to 1800 for a a man, man, a Iittle less less for for a a woman; the
weight becomes excessive excessive above above 2500 g.

stomach is more sensiWeight aliments - Normally Weigbt of ofaUments NormaUy the stomach

must not The The average weight weight of a a meal meal must not exceed 800 800 to
1000 g. for a man and 600 to 800 g. for a woman. Generally Generally a feeling of saliety satiety occurs occurs before these these limits are reached. reached.

MUTUAL SUBSTITUTION OF ANIMAL FOODS MUTUAL SUBSTITUTION FOODS

replaced as as a a source 100 can be source of 100 G. G. MEAT (net weight) wcight) can be replaced protein by: g. olfal 100 g. offal or variety meats 100 g. fish (net weight) 2| 2-t eggs t litre milk or the equivalent in milk derivatives (see table I below)

OF DAIRY MUTUAL SUBSTITUTION DAIRY FOODS MUTUAL S(]BSTITUTION OF

replaced by: MILK can be replaced ! * LITRE MILK
120 g. unsweetened concentrated milk 80 g. sweetened concentrated milk 30 g. powdered milk 125 g. curdled milk (cream cheese) yoghurt (about 250 g.) 2 small cartons yoghurl 4 petits petjf5 .slli.sses (about 120 g.) szisses (about I demisel 1 demi-sel (about 60 g.) 40-50 Camembert, fermented soft cheese (Brie, Camembert, 40-50 g. fermented etc.) Coulommier s, Livarot, Munster, etc.) Coulommiers, (Gruyire, Dwch Dutch cheese, g. fermented hard cheeses (Gruyre, 30-40 g. 30--40 etc.) S aint - P aulin, Cantal, etc.) Saint-Paulin, g. Gruyre Gruyire cream cream cheese 60 g. g. goat goat cheese 25 g.

(closely quantities of then calculated the aliments (c1osely of other other aliments then caJculated the quantities given w!::ight a given weight related in nutritive value) required to replace a of each each of these basic elements. they have naturally taken In establishing these quantities, they into account in each group are aceount that the aliments mentioned in precisely the not of precisely same composition composition andmay and'may ev even differ en ditfer the same points. We profoundly on see the We can can nevertheless see on certain points. advantage of comparing which, practically speakadvantage comparing aliments which, ing, are interchangeable. If the is sufficiently alimentation is jng, are the alimentation from their their different varied the can only only benellt benefit from varied the organism can nutritional values. nutritional variable than than the is more variable Volume of aliments alimenb - Nothing is stomach; although elastic organ organ the the stomach; capacity capacity of of that that elastic 1200 cm.) cm.3 is the recognised average capacity, this may fall to 600 cm] cm.3 according to the individual. cm.3 or rise to 2000 cm.) We must not forget that iogested ingested liquids leave the stomach very rapidly rapidly and only minimally minimally into into calculations calculations very and enter enter only involving the volume of aliments. to draw draw up a alimmts Classification of the tbe aliments - Any attempt to guiding principles for for sensible eating must must be be based set set of guiding a simple classification of the aliments. upon quite a little to choose between the varous various classifications There is liule nutritionists, but like Mme. Randoin we prefer suggested by nutritonists, the following: l. Milk and its derivatives (with the exception exception of butter). 1. 2. Various meats and and fish, fish, eggs. 2. 3. Fatty substances. 3. (flour, bread, rice, dried dried vege4. Starchy Starchy foods bread, noodles, noodles, rice, 4. foods (flour, and sweetened fruit, sugar, tables, potatoes) and sweetened foods (dried fruit, sugar, jam, chocolate, etc.). vegetables and fruit: 5. bles and 5. Fresh vegeta (a) eaten (cruditis) (a) eaten raw ruur (crudits) (b) eaten cooked.

OF FARINACEOUS MUTUAL SUBSTITUTION OF MUTUAL SUBSTITUTION FARINACEOUS FOODS FOODS

a source can be 100 G. BREAD can be replaced as a G. BREAD 70 g. cereal flour

of calories by:

70 g. rusks or dry sponge fingers g. biscuits 50 g. g. gingerbread 80 g. 70 g. porridge porridge oats 70 g. pasta or noodles g. rice 70 g. g. dried vegetables (haricot beans, lentils, 75 g. lenlils, peas, etc.) g. potatoes (gross weight) 350 g. g. chestnuts chestnuts (gross weight) 150 g. prunes, etc.) g. dried fruit (dates, figs, prunes, 90 g.

MUTUAL SUBSTITUTION OF FATTY SUBSTITUTION OF MUTUAL SUBSTANCES

a source of lipids lipids by: as a G. BUTTER BUTTER can can be replaced as 100 G. g. animal fat fat, etc.) fat (lard, mutton fat, 100 g. g. oil 85 g. g. margarine 100 g. 120 g. unsmoked bacon foods is of alimenb= consistency of foods Consistmcy of the aliments Consisteocy - The consistency far greater importance (as regards their digestion) than their volume or a rule, rule, whatever whatever their their initial initial conor weight. weight. As volume As a to reach reach the stomach reduced reduced to to a aliments ought to the stomach sistency, alment5 t3 13

ALIMENTATION ALIMENTATION
(or pap) pap) tbrough rulp (or through mastication mastication and (for the and insalivation insalivation (for the mlp gastric musculature musculature is is too too feeble feeble in in tbe the human human species species to to 6astric break down down large large fragments; fragments; the the latter latter lie lie too too long long in in the the break stomach and and cao can cause cause dyspepsia). dyspepsia). The The bad bad habit habit of of not not stomach properly, of chewing food food properly, of swallowing swallowing too (tachyquickly (tachytoo quickly chewiog phagra) has has the possible effects. the worst worst possible effects. pbagia) X-ray examination examination reveals, reveals, for for example, example, that that a a hardhardX-ray boiled egg, egg, considered considered to to he be one of the the most one of most indigestible indigestible of of boiled just as foods, leaves leaves the the stomach stomach just quickly as as quickly as a a soft-boiled soft-boiled egg egg foods, grated finely (or chewed if it it is is grated finely (or chewed very very thoroughly) give it thoroughly) to to give it a a if similar consistency. consistency. similar We must must Dot not conclude conclude from from this this that that the the Ideal ideal way way of of We ingesting food food is is in in the the fform pur6e; on of a a pure; on the the contrary, contrary, ingesting onn of pur6ed foods foods are last resort, are a a last resort, to to have have recourse recourse to to in in cases cases of of pured infection of the mouth mouth and of the and teeth, teeth, or or as as a a temporary temporary measure measure infection in some some forms forms of of dyspepsia, dyspepsia, or or in in the the early early stages stages of of conconin valescence. The The importance importance ofmasticaton, of mastication, insalivation, insalivation, and and valescence. digestion cannot cannot he be over over emphasised; emphasised; a a diet diet conssling consisting solely solely digestion pur6ed foods of pured foods would would not not stimulate stimulate the the stomach stomach muscles muscles of sufficiently and gastric atony; and could could ca cause atony; it it could could also also lead lead slIfficiently use gastric to dental dental caries caries owing owing to to the the enforced idleness imposed enforced idleness imposed on on to the teeth. teeth. So So one one must must encourage encourage the the culinary culinary habit habit of of the (fried crotons, adding some some hard hard substances substances (fried cro0tons, for for example) example) adding presented in pur6ed fonn. to foods foods presented in pured form. to Tenperature of of the the alimentsalimenb- Hot Hot foods foods are are morestimulatmore stimulatTemperabue ing than than cold cold and and man man always always looks looks for for such such stimulation stimulation in in lng his food, food, for for unlike unlike other other animal species he he is animal species is not not content content his simply to to have have his his hunger hunger appeased. appeased. simply Only extreme extreme lemperatures temperatures are are harmful harmful to to tbe the organism. Only If food food is is too too hot hot it it can can cause cause burns burns to to the the mou mouth, the If th, the tongue, and and the the sophagus, esophagus, especially especially when when hot Iiquids liquids are longue, gulped down. down. The The latter latter can can also also cause cause irritation to the irritation to gulped stomach which may even gastritis. even develop develop into stomach which may into gastritis. Foods cold induce induce conslriction constriction of of the Foods which which are are too too cold capillary blood of the the stomach, stomach, causing causing subsequent subsequent capillary blood vessels vessels of dilatation. The side side effects effects are are even even worse dilatation. The worse than than those produced foods which are too too hot. produced by by foods which are hot. The nature consistency of of the aliments have a strong The nature and and consistency the aliments have a bearing on how can, if bearing on how their their temperature temperature is is withstood; withstood; one can, if need 60"C. (140'F.); need be, be, sip sip broth broth or or coffee coffee at at 60~C. (140~ F.); porridge porridge taken at al the the same same temperature temperature would would have have serious serious effects. effects. The particular particular moment moment at at which wbich these these foods foods are are quickly quickly swalswallowed lowed is is also also significant; significant; an an iced ced substance substance taken taken on on an empty empty stomach storoacb can can be be harmful, harmful, whereas whereas the the effect effect of of an ice cream cream taken taken immediately immediately after after a a meal meal and and received received by by an already already full full stomach stomach would wou!d not not be be nearly nearly so so serious. serious. Too Too swift swift a a transition transition from from hot hot to to cold, cold, for for example, example, a a hot hot food food followed followed immediately immediately by by an an iced iced drink, drnk, is is extremely extreme1y harmful harrnful to to the the enamel enamel of of the the teeth. teeth. Soups in the the plate, plate, so so they they are are usually usually Soups rapidly rapidly become become cold cold in served served very very hot; hot; it it is is hardly hardly possible possible to to drink drink a a clear clear soup soup (140"F.) heated heated above above 60"C. 60C. (140F.) - even even above above 58"C. 58C. (136'F.). (l36F.). c Most Most people people wait wait until until it it cools cools to to 37" 37 to to 45"C 45 C (99'to (99 to 103'F.) 103F.) to to taste laste the the flavour. flavour. Thick porridges, vegetable vegetable pur6es purees must must not not be be Thick soups, soups, porridges, drunk d runk above above 38" 38 to to 42"C. 42 C. (100" (100 to to 107'F.). 107F.). Roast Roast meat meat is is usually usually served served between between 40o 40 and and 45"C. 45C. (104' (104 and and ll3"F). I13 e F). Its Its temperature temperature must must not not fall fall below below 40"C. 40C. (104'F.) fa t begins begins to to congeal congeal (this (this is is especially especially (104F.) otherwise otherwise the the fat true of roast roast mutton). mutton). This This is is why why plates plates are are heated heated (particu(particutrue of larly larly meat meat plates). plates). Hot Hot bread bread of of 38"C. 38 C. (100"F.) (100F.) and and above above is is much much more more indigestible indigestible than than cold cold bread; bread; this Ihis depends depends less less on on the the temperature temperature itself itself than than on on the the physical physical condition condition of of the the crumb. crumb. It Il is is a a widespread widespread belief, belief, however, however, that that slow slow digestion digestion of of cold cold foods foods is 1S beneficial. beneficiaJ. Ninon Ninon de de Lenclos Lenclos attributes attributes his his sprightly cold food. food. sprightly old old age age to to having having all ail his his life lire eaten ea ten cold Psychologicd PsychologicaJ effects effects of of the the aliments aliments - For For its its curiosity curiosity
Q Q

value, here, here, according according to to a a learned learned Swedish Swedish doctor, doctor, are are the the value. produced on effects produced on man man by by the the different different foods foods he he eats: eats: effects (especially roast By eating eating beef roast beef) beef (especially beef) for for months months on on end, end, -- By one is is certain certain to acquire self-confidence to acquire self-confidence and and audacity audacity ... ... one Mutton makes makes one melancholy ... one melancholy ... -- Mutton pessimistic. Could Pork makes makes one one pessimistic. it be pork Could il be that that pork -- Pork butchers only see see the the black black side side of of things? things? bu tchers only Duck ftesh flesh makes makes man man bad-tcmpered bad-tempered .. . . .. -- Duck For wit wit and and beauty beauty eggs eggs are are supreme supreme .. . . .. -- For Walnuts, hazelnuts, hazelnuts, almonds, almonds, dried dried figs figs develop develop the the -- Walnuts, mind. .. mind ... Tomatoes, oranges oranges and and lemons lemons considerably considerably improve improve -- Tomatoes, quality of the quality the voiee voice ... ... of the the Finally, doughy doughy English-type English-type bread bread slows slows the the mental mental -- Finally, processes; light-textured light-textured brcad bread assures assures a a buoyant buoyant morale. morale. processes; Rye bread and and buckwheat buckwheatpancake one melancholy melancholy.... .. Rye panake make one

ALIMENTATION Alimentation varies varies according according to to age, age, ALIMENTATION - Alimentation profession, and climate, profession, and state state of health. of health. climate, Alimentation must provide (with must be be adequate. (with a adequate. Il It must must provide Alimentation small excess) excess) the (in the the wherewithal wherewithal for growth (in young for growth the young small repair and and upkeep of ofthe tissues and and organs, organs, person), for the repai! the tissues and for the the expenditure of ofenergy. and energy. To determine the the energy energy value value of an an aliment aliment or or diet, diet, wc we To employ as a a measure the calorie (q.v.), going going on the principle employas that ail all forms of energy energy can can be transfonned transformed into heat. that methods are are used to determine tbe used to the requirements Various methods of the the human body. body. One One way is is by by calculating calculating the the average of from global alimentation of the global population. Anotber of a a population. Another from the method (aliments and is by by analysing the the ingesta ingesta (aliments and oxygen method is consumed), and the excreta excreta (excretions, secretions, secretions, carbonic carbonic cODsumed), quantity of exhaled) and and the quantity ofheat discharged. acid exhaled) heat discharged. Modern dieticians a{"e are agreed agreed that the normal normal alimentation alimentation Modern for (65 kg. of average weight (65 or 143 lb.) in in repose for an an adult of kg. or or engaged in in only only Iight light duties duties must or must correspond to to 2350 calorieg that approximately 36 calories for every kg. 36 calories tbat is is approximately for every calories, of weight (2.2lb.). a much higher calorie intake (22 lb.). Previously Previously a was considered consid ered necessary. We usually allow that: I 4'44 calories 1 g. albuminoids albuminoids gives out 444 I 4'23 calories 1 g. g. carbohydrates carbohydrates gives out 423 I 9.40 calories g. fat fat gives gives out 9-40 1 g. The figures of of the the physiologist physiologist M. M. Atwater Atwater are are slightly lower lower because because he incorporated incorporated losses losses and waste products products in them. tbem. His His table reads as follows: Albuminoids 3'68 Albuminoids 368 calories per g. Carbohydrates 3'00 Carbohydrates 300 calories per g. Fats 8'65 865 calories per g. He He also distinguished distingulshed between between substances substances of of animal animal origin (best (best utilised) utilised) and substances of of vegetable vegetable origin. To obtain obtaill 100 100 calories one one must consume, consume, according according to to him: him: Animal 23.50 Animal proteins proteins 23 50 g. g. Vegetable 28'19 Vegetable proteins proteins 2819 g. Amyloide 25.00 Amyloide substances substances 2500 g. Animal ll.18 Animal fats fats 1118 g. g. Vegetable ll'97 Vegetable fats fats 1197 s. g. We We must must not not lose lose sight of of the the fact fact that that these these figures figures are merely merely averages, averages, and and while while of of great great interest interest in in alimentary alimentary studies studies of of collectivities collectivites they they lose lose their their precision precision when when reduced of individuals. indivduals. reduced to to the the level level of The The food food requirements requirements of of the the child child are are (in (n proportion proportion to to its its weight) weight) slightly slightly higher higher than than those those of of an an adult adult since since it it must must satisfy satisfy its ifS growing growing needs. needs. Those Those of of the the aged aged are are less less because of the reduced reduced expenditure expenditure ofenergy. ofenergy. Food Food requirerequirebccause ofthe ments ments increase increase with with the the lowering lowering of of exterior exterior temperatures temperatures and and with with the the work work done. done. The The daily daily diet diet must must be be balanced.It balanced. It must must contain contain a a miniminimum mum amount amount of of albuminoids albuminoids and and fats, fats, and and enough enough carbocarbo-

oc

l4 14

ALLIGATOR ALLIGATOR
hydrates hydrates to to ensure ensure that that the the two two preceding preceding elements are
thoroughly thoroughly utilised. utilised. The normal normal diet must must comprise: comprise: 80 80 g. albuminoids albuminoids 70 70 g. fats fats 350 350 g. g. carbohydrates carbohydrates The The proportion proportion of of fats fats in in an an infant's diet diet must be higher in carbohydrates. relation to to carbohydrates. relation The The daily dai/y diet must must be be varied. The The impossibility of of measurmeasurthe imponderables imponderables of of alimentation alimentation (very minute minute mineral mineraI ing the substances "UiU:>I,<lll\A<O and and vitamins) vitamins) obliges obliges us us to to procure procure our our alimentary alimentary elements from a a wide variety of nutrients (something, in elements instinctively). fact, that man has always done instinctively). It It is is probable probable that the disorders disorders arising from from following too of uniform a diet are caused by the the absence or deficiency of uniform these imponderables. imIPOJr1df:ralbles. The daily diet diel must be be pleasant. Although it is possible possible to (as feed like like animals animaIs simply sim ply upon upon what what nature nature provides pro vides (as feed tried to to indo) man certain sects sects do) man has has always tried members of certain of his food by adding palatable condicrease the savouriness savouriness of crease art, which which is The culinary culinary art, ments and and by by applying heat. The applying heat. ments effect of adding derived from these two operations, has the effect nourishof taking nourishto the psychological need and satisfaction oftaking ment, a gustative, olfactory satisfaction, and in so doing has of the the human development of exerted an influence on the development on the an influence exerted
species.

water, with with an extremely strong pungent pungent odour odour reminiscent reminiscent It is conof of urine. urine. Its Its fumes can be asphyxiating. asphyxiating. It is used used in in concarmines. . fectionery fectionery as as a solvent for for cochineal carmines.
vegetable origin of vegetable ALKALOIDS. ALKALOIDS. lrcnroinss ALCALODES - Substances of even when on the effect on that that have a a powerful powerful effect the organism, even

(The stimulants in in coffee, coffee, absorbed absorbed in in minute quantities. quantities. (The tea and and chocolate are are alkaloids.) alkaloids.)

red cordial, cordial, old-fashioned red ALKERMES. ALKERMES. lrrnnuis ALKERMS An old-fashioned - An sweetened a sweetened distilling a by distilling once once very very popular, produced by Its cloves. Its leaf and and cloyes. nutmeg, cinnamon, bay infusion infusion of nutmeg, bay leaf
name. hence its name. colour is derived from kermes, hence

plant has has a a This plant (Jack-by-the.hedge). ALLIAIRE ALLIAIRE ALLARH ALLARIA (Jack-by-the-bedge). - This as a a condiused as condibe used flavour, and can be very pronounced garlic flavour, ment for salads.
a classic white given to a classic white SAUCE - The name given ALLEMANDE SAUCE ALLEMANDE (q.v.). yolks and cream to toaveloutd sauce made by adding egg yolks a velout (q.v.). (one for this this sauce sauce (one of the the recipe for A more modern version of A given in in the is given culinary repertoire) is the French culinary of the best best in the devoted to sauces. section devoted is not not of of German German origin. sauce is name, this this sauce Despite its its name, Despite of its its light because of is so so called called because it is to Carme Carme it According to from espagnole espagnole sauce, sauce, which it from distinguish it and to colour, and to distinguish colom, in have originated (The latter to have originated in not seem seem to latter does does not dark. (The is dark. is Spain, either.) is an an enormous enonnous there is In the culinary repertoire, there the French culinary countries, from other other cotmtries, borrowed from designations borrowed number of of designations number origin. French origin. of entirely entirely French dishes of most of of them them describing dishes most Smtce as Sauce allemande as refer to the allemande also refer authors also to the Modem authors Modern (see SAUCE). parisienne (see SAUCE). parisienne recipe for for the recipe by giving the Carme begins by Car6me's recipe Carme's - Carme preparation (soo SAUCE), then de5;cnbes describes the prepara SAUCE), then VeloutC sauce sauce (see Velout tion as follows: follows: of allemande allemande sauce sauce as of an equal Add an into a a saucepan. saucepan. Add 'Pour half the velout velouti into half the 'Pour good chicken has been quantity of to which which has consomm6, to of good chicken consomm, (stalks and peel), and much salt salt and as as much and peel), mushrooms (stalks added a a few mushrooms added point of knife. ofa held on on the the point as can can be be held as a knife. a wood wooden heat and and stir stir with with a a brisk brisk heat Place the the sauce sauce over over a Place en from the it away away from the boil. Draw Draw it to the the boil. spoon until until it it cornes comes to about an an hour. hour. Skim simmer for for about leave to to simmer flame, coyer, cover, and and leave Skim the stirring with with the flame, stirring high flame, a high and replace replace on on a off the fat fat and off the prevent it the bottom bottom of of the it sticking sticking to to the to prevent wooden spoon spoon to wooden the perfectly cooked, sauce should should coat coat the cooked, the pan. When the sauce When perfectly pan. it quite thickly; and when when poured, it thickly; and surface of a spoon quite of a surface redcurrant jelly. as redcurrant same consistency consistency as should be be of of the same should prepare a a liaison heat and and prepare from the the heat saucepan from Remove the the saucepan Remove (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) yolks mixed 2 tablespoons mixed with with 2 tablespoons (3 4 egg using 4 egg yolks using piece of a piece of best butter adding a best butter a sieve, sieve, adding cream. Pass Pass this this through through a cream. liaison, Pour the the liaison, into small an egg, cut cut into small pieces. Pour of an the the size size of the with the carefully with velouti, stirring carefuJly little by little, into the the velout, little by !iUle, in smoothly. it is is blended in smoothly. make sure that it sure that wooden spoon spoon to to make wooden on aa perfectly incorporated, replace the the sauce sauce on incorporated, replace is ail When When it it is all perfectly heat and and continue continue stirring. moderate moderate heat remove from the the rise, rem start to to rise, soon as as a a fewbubbles few bubbles start As ove from As soon grated nutmeg held on on the the as can can be be held nutmeg as and add add as as much much grated heat and heat pass through through aasieve.' sieve.' point of well blended, blended, pass of a a knife. knife. When When weil point

denigrating culinary either denigrating aHmentation - Without either Natural alimentationgastronomic traditions, qualities or traditions, dieticians qualities betraying gastronomic or betraying of composition of in the the composition foods in encourage us to natural foods encourage us to use use natural menus. food products This means that we ought not to to consume food that have have been been subjected to to any form of chemical adulteration. Mme. Randoin defined the problem perfectly when she business upon WTote: is a a serious serious business ourselves is wrote: 'Nourishing ourselves It is is incumbent, which depends. It and bad, bad, depends. which much, much, good and we make make or or therefore, upon realise that that we one of us us to to realise upon each each one of the choice of or injudicious injudicious choice health by a judicious or break our health elements that constitute our daily diet.' different, and and The fact remains that every individual case case is different, go on, are general lines to that although we on, there there are a few general to go we have a no truly standard rgimes r6gimes in in alimentation. alimentation. products wherever the Besides wherever possible, the Besides using natural products using natural best of to follow follow the the precepts of quantity, of one can can do do is is to best one the preparation, and of cooking cooking methods laid down by the and of dieticians. into Forced feeding- The introduction directly into of aliments aliments directly introduction of the "lU'l1AQ,,",lI. stomach. Artificia.l made to to can be be made substances can feedlng Alimentary substances Artificial feeding - Alimentary gastric penetrate the gastric than the penetrate the other than by channels channels other the organism by one. medical domain. domain. to the the medical are confined confined to one. These These procedures are

(Aliments) -ALKALESCENTS (Food). ALCAUNISANTS ALcALINISANTS (Aliments) ALKALESCENTS (Food). (lime, soda, Foods that cess of soda, elements (lime, an ex excess of basic basic elements that contain contain an potassium, m'lgrleslurn). magnesium). Milk and blood are are the only alkalescents of animal origin. Milk and On are origin are most foods of vegetable origin the other other hand, hand, most On the products alkalescents cereal products of cereals, cereal the exception exception of alkalescents with with the and consume the the which we we consume vegetables of of which a number number of of vegetables and a flowers (asparagus, Brussels Brussels sprouts). sprouts). buds (asparagus, flowers (artichoke) or or buds Ali are redcurrants, etc., etc., are lemons, redcurrants, such as as lemons, All acid-tasting acid-tasting fruit such alkalescents. alkalescents. beetroot, carrots, beetroot, turnips, carrots, artichokes, turnips, Celery, Jerusalem Jerusalem artichokes, lettuce, tomatoes, endive, lettuce, tomatoes, dandelions, endive, cucumber, cabbage, cabbage, dandelions, spinach, very strong lemons are are very strong and lemons oranges, tangerines tangerines and spinach, oranges, alkalescents; potatoes and milk, potatoes cauliflower, less less and cauliflower, fruits, milk, alkalescents; other other fruits, so. so.
---.. 1. . - -

VOLATILE. ALCALI - Commonly ALKALI known ALcALI VOLATIL voLArILCommonly known ALKALMLATILE. as liquid, lighter lighter than than It is a colourless is a colourless liquid, as liquid liquid ammonia. ammonia. It
15 t5

American crocodile crocodile commonly commonly ALLIGATOR -- A A species species of of American ALLIGATOR called called cayman. gastronomic part of of the thegastronomic has already already bec become The alligator has The orne aa part the flesh eaten eaten by by the rather too musky flesh Not onJy is its its rather too musky world. world. Not only is alligator are are occasionally occasionally it, but but slices slices of of alligator natives natives who who capture capture it, served in London London and and Paris. Paris. served in feet or flippers, parts of the reptile reptile are are the thefeet or fljppers, most valued valued parts of the The most The less aquatic than most mostcrococrocoaquatic than although Jess since since the the alligator, alligator, aJthough I'amiriare prepared dl'amriThese flippers flippersare diles, lives in in water. water. These diles, also also lives TURTLE.) manner. (See TURTLE.) caine, or in in any any similar similar manner. d /'indienne I'indienne or caine,

ALLSPICE ALLSPICE
ALLSPICE. ALLSPICE. rourE TOUTE 6prcs PICE - Common Corn mon name for the myrtle seed seed (Jamaica (Jarnaica pepper) pepper) and and for for cultivated cultivated nigella nigella (fennel (fennel
flower). f1ower). strips, cut them (l inch) wide, and bake them into pieces pieces 2 to 3 cm. (1

ALLUMBTTES ALLUMETTES - Strips of of puff puff pastry variously variously garnished and baked baked in in the the oven. oyen. Little cakes made of of puff puff pastry and and filled or garnished garnished with with various various mixtures mixtures are also called ca lIed allumettes. allumettes. Allumettes a strip of puff Allumettes (hot (hot hors-d'auvre) hors-d'uvre) - Roll out a pastry pastry to a a thickness thickness of of ] t cm. (+ (t inch) and about about 7 to 8 cm. (3 (3 inches) inches) wide. wide. Cover Co ver the the surface with f'rsft Fish forcemeat, forcemeat, or any any other other suggested suggested mixture mixture (see (see FORCEMEATS FORCEMEA TS or STUFFINGS). STUFFINGS). Cut into rectangles, rectangles, place place on a baking baking tray, tray, and bake bake in in the the oven oyen at 200'C. 200C. (400"F., (400F., Gas Mark 6) for about about 15 15 minutes. minutes. Allumettes Allumettes I la la perigourdine prigourdine - Coat Coat the puff puff pastry pastry with a puree of chicken chicken livers livers (see (see FORCEMEATS FORCEMEATS or STUFFSTUFFpure of INGS) INGS) mixed mixed with with finely finely chopped chopped truffies. truffles. Bake Bake in in the oven. oyen. Allumettes Allumettes i la la reine reine - Coat Coat the the puff puff pastry pastry with with a a very very fine fine mixture mixture of of minced minced breast breast of of chicken and truffies, truffles, blended blended with with thick thick Veloutd Velout sauce sauce (se, (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Bake Bake in in the the oven. oyen. Allumettes Allumettes I la la toscane toscane - Sprinkle Sprinkle the the sheet of of puff puff pastry pastry with with grated grated Parmesan. Parmesan. Cut Cut into into strips strips and and bake bake in in the the oven. oyen. Ox Ox palate palate allumettes. allumettes. ALLT,JMETTES ALLUMETTES DE DE pALArs PALAIS DE DE BGUF BUF 'Remove 'Remove the the skin skin from from 2 2 ox palates palates previously previously cooked cooked in water. matchsticks and Cut into into strips strips the the size size of ofmatchsticks and marinate marinate in in water. Cut lemon or vinegar vinegar seasoned seasoned with a a little little salt, salt, sprigs of lemon juice juice or parsley, parsley, and and whole whole spring spring onions. onions. When When they they are are thoroughly thoroughly macerated macerated drain drain them, them, and and dip dip them them in in a batter batter made made as as follows: follows: 'Place 'Place 2 2 good good handfuls handfuls of of flour, f1our, I 1 tablespoon tablespoon fine fine oil, oil, and ground salt, salt, into into a a basin. basin. Dilute Dilute this this gradugraduand a a little little finely finely ground ally ally with with beer beer until until the the batter batter reaches reaches the the consistency consistency of thick thick cream. cream. Dip Dip the the palate palate strips strips into into it it and and fry fry until until golden brown. Serve Serve as as hot hot as as possible.' possible.' (La (La Cuisine Cuisine bourbourgolden brown. geoise,1769, Paris) geoise, 1769, Paris)

(400'F., Gas Mark 6) for 12 minutes. in the oven oyen at 200'C. 200C. (400F., ALMOND. of a stone fruit, particularly of ALMOND. AMANDE AMANDE - Kernel of

the almond tree. are two varieties, sweet almond and tree. There are and bitter almond. almond. They come mostly from from North Africa, Africa, Provence, Italy and from California, U.S.A. ltaly and Languedoc, and More than half their weight is oil. There are two varieties of this; one is is used used principally in perfumery, perfumery, the other in pharmaceutics, in the manufacture manufacture of soothing emulsions. The The almond tree tree is mentioned in Genesis, and almonds were among the fruit offered to Joseph (see ALMOND, Country almond). almond).

Almond

Aboukir almonds almonds (confectionery). (confectionery). nrrlNnEs AMANDES D'ABoUKIR D'ABOUKIR Aboukir Petits fours, fours, made made of kirsch-flavoured, kirsch-flavoured, green-coloured Petits almond paste, paste, shaped in in the the form of of an almond, almond, and stuffed stuffed almond almond. Aboukirs Aboukirs are coated coated with gum, or with a a blanched blanched almond. with iced with with sugar sugar cooked cooked to to hard hard crack crack stage (see (see SUGAR). SUGAR). iced Almond and and puff puff pastry pastry gffteau. gteau. cArntu GTEAU rEUlLrerE FEUILLET lux AUX Almond This gdteau gteau is is known known under under the the name name of of Pithiviers Pithiviers AMANDES - This AMANDES(q.v.). (q.v.). Almond butter. butter. BEURRE BEURRE D'AMANDEs D'AMANDES - Pound Pound 150 150 g. Almond (5 (5 oz.,l oz., 1cup) cup) freshly freshly blanched blanched almonds almonds in in a a mortar mortar until until they they are reduced reduced to to a a paste, paste, adding adding a a few few drops drops of of cold water water to to are prevent them them from from turning tuming into into oil. oil. Pound Pound in in 225 g. g. (8 (8 oz., oz., prevent cup) fresh fresh butter. butter. Pass Pass through through a a very very fine fine sieve. sieve. I1 cup) This butter butter is is used used for for flavouring flavouring certain certain sauces sauces and and cream cream This soups; it it is is also also used used in in the the preparation preparation of of cold cold hors d'euvre. d'uvre. soups; PAINS ANGLlrs ANGLAIS - Small Small dry dry cookies cookies prepreAlmond cuokies. cookies. rAINS Almond pared in in the the following following manner. manner. pared Ingredients. 225 225 g. g. (8 (8 oz., oz., 2 2 cups) cups) sieved sieved flour, flour, 225 g. g. Ingredients. (8 oz., oz., 2 2 cups) cups) ground ground almonds, almonds, 225 225 g. g. (8 (8 oz., I 1 cup) cup) castor castor (8 (fine) (fine) sugar, sugar, 100 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz., oz., I t cup) cup) butter, butter, 4 4 eggs, eggs, halfa half a liqueur liqueur of rum. rum. glass of glass Method. Sieve Sieve the the flour flour onto onto the the table. table. Make Make a a well weil in in the the Method. almonds, the the sugar sugar and and the the well-softened well-softened centre and and add add the the almonds, centre butter. Break Break the the eggs eggs into into these these ingredients ingredients and and pour pour in in the the butter. rum. To To prevent prevent burning, burning, mix mix the the paste paste without without kneading kneading it it rum. too firm, firm, add add an an egg egg yolk). yolk). (if too (if into long long sausages sa usages on on the the lightly lightly floured floured Roll the the paste paste into Roll table. Cut Cut them them into into small small pieces pieces and and roll roll these these into into balls. balls. table. out on on buttered buttered trays trays (use (use two). two). Coat Coat each each Space the the balls balls out Space bail twioe twiee with with beaten beaten egg egg and and score score with with the the blade blade of of a a wet wet ball knife. Bake Bake for for 20 20 minutes minutes in in a a slow slow oven. oyen. knife. Almond cookies cookies Qemon-flavoured). (lemon-flavoured). pArNS PAINS ANcLArs ANGLAIS AU AU Almond CITRON - Pound Pound 225 225 g. g. (8 (8 oz., oz., l| 1t cups) cups) blanched blanched almonds almonds cIrRoN finely with with 225 225 g. g. (8 (8 oz., oz., I 1 cup) cup) castor castor (fine) (fine) sugar sugar and 2 2 finely whole eggs. eggs. whole
16 l6

Allumettes (cakes) (cakes) Allumettes

Allumettes (cakes) (cakes) - These These sweet sweet pastry pastry cakes cakes are are said said to to Allumettes have century ago ago by by a a Swiss Swiss pastry-cook pastry-cook who who have been been created created a a century

lived lived in in Dinard Dinard (Ille-et-Vilaine). (Ille-et-Vilaine). M. M. Lacam, Lacam, who who wrote wrote a a history history of ofpastry-making, pastry-making, describes describes the the invention invention as as follows: follows: 'One 'One day day Planta, Planta, the the above-mentioned above-mentioned pastry-cook, pastry-cook, had had some and did did not not know know what what to to do do with with it. it. sorne icing icing left left over over and added a a pinch pinch of offlour flour to to it it in in order order to to Having softened softened it, it, he he added Having prevent prevent the the sugar sugar from from running running in in the the heat heat ofthe of the oven, oyen, and and puffpastry. spread it iton ona a sheet sheetof ofpuff pastry. This This he he cut cutinto into little little sticks sticks spread and baked baked in in the the oven,' oven.' and Thus allumettes, allumettes, n a sort sort of ofdry drypetit petitfour four which which are are now now so so Thus popular, popular, were were invented. invented. Method. Roll Roll out out some sorne puff puff pastry pastry to to the the thickness thickness of of Method. 4 4 mm. mm. (* (t inch) inch) and and cut cut it it into into strips strips 8 8 cm. cm. (3 (3 inches) inches) wide. wide. of Royal Royal icing icing (see (see ICING) ICING) on on these these Spread a a thin thin layer layer of Spread

ALMOND ALMOND
Sieve Sieve 225 225 g. (8 oz., OZ., 2 2 cups) flour onto onto the table. table. Make Make a well weil in the centre centre and place place the pounded mixture mixture in it. il. Add 175 g. (6 I lemon lemon (or (6 oz., OZ., * i cup) butter and and the the grated grated rind rind of 1 orange). Knead well weil together. Divide Sprinkle the Divide the the paste paste into into walnut-sized pieces. pieces. Sprinkle table table lightly with with flour flour and and form form these these into into little little cigars, cigars, pointed pointed at each end. Place them on a buttered baking baking sheet, brush with beaten egg and score in the centre. Bake Bake in a hot oven for 8 to to l0 JO minutes. min utes. Almond Almond cream. creaOl. cnirun CRME D'AMANDES - Prepare Prepare ] ~ litre (scant pint" 2* cups) crime (seant pnt, 2l'cups) crme pdtissiCre ptissire in the usual manner, cool it and add to it 250 g. (9 oz.,l] OZ., l-t cups) cups) freshly blanched almonds 250 g. almonds poundod pounded to to a a smooth smooth paste paste with with 250 g. (9 (9 oz., OZ., generous generous cup) sugar sugar and 250 250 g. (9 oz., OZ., generous generous cup) butter. butter. This uime This cream cream is is used used for for filling filling sweet sweet dishes. dishes. For For crme pdtissiire see CREAMS, CREA MS, French postry pastry ueam. cream. ptissire see Almond Almond loaf. pAlN PAfN coMpLE'r COMPLET - A cake cake made of almond almond paste shaped like like a loaf. 10af. Almond LAIT D'AMANDEs D'AMAl';1)E.S - The The codex codex gives gives the Almood milk. milk. rlrr following followiog recipe recipe for almond almond milk: milk: Ingredients. 50 50 g. g. Q (2 oz., OZ., scant seant * ! cup) cup) blanched blanched sweet almonds, 50 cup) white 50 g. (2 oz., OZ., I i cup) white sugar, I 1dl. (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seant * t cup) distilled water. Method. Method. Place the almonds, sugar sugar and water in a marble mortar and pound to a very smooth smooth paste. Press Press through a fine sieve. sievc. Alnond Almood nougat. nougat. NoucAT NOUGAT AUx AUX AMANDTs AMANDES - Dry Dry 500 500 g. (18 (18 oz., OZ., 4l 4t cups) blanched, chopped almonds in the the oven. oyen. Place Place them them in a copper bowl bowl in which which 400 g. (14 oz.,l| oz., li cups) cups) sugar, flavoured ftavoured with wth a a squeeze squeeze of lemon juice, juice, has has been boiled to to a pale pale caramel. Stir Stif this mixture with a spatula. While Whle the the mixture mixture is is still still hot, hot, pour pour it it into into variously variously shaped greased moulds. moulds. Alternatively, the the nougat nougat may may be spread thinly thinly on an oiled oled marble slab and cut eut into different different shapes. shapes. Nougat prepared in this way may be he shaped shapcd into bowls, baskets, clogs c10gs and other other objects. objects. Almond Almood paste I. pAtE PTE n',q,Ira.l,NDEs D'AMANDES - Crush Crush 450 g. g. (l (1 lb., 3 cups) blanched almonds and place them in a mortar with the the selected selected flavouring flavouring (vanilla (vanilla sugar sugar or or liqueur). liqueur). Cook 900 900 g. (2 lb., 4 cups) cups) sugar sugar to to hard hard crack stage stage (see SUGAR). SUGA R). Qlb.,4 Add Add this gradually to the the almonds, almonds, pounding vigorously vigorously until well weil mixed. Almond 475 g. Almood paste paste II. n. pArE PTE D'^luANDEs D'AMANDES - Ingredients. 475 (17 OZ., o2.,3| 3t cups) cups) sweet almonds, 25 g. (1 (1 oz., OZ., 3 tablespoons) bitter (1 teaspoon) teaspoon) gum arabic, arabic, 100 100 g. g. (4 oz., OZ., bitter almonds, almonds., 5 g. (l scant seant cup) icing sugar, I 1 egg white, juie juice of I 1 lemon. Method. Method. Pound Pound the almonds almonds with the the lemon lemon juioe juice and pass pass through through a fine fine strainer. strainer. Put into a copper pan pan with the icing icing sugar and egg egg white. Dry this this mixture mixture gently over over heat, heat, stirring all ail the the time. Add the the gum arabic dissolved dissolved in in a little water. To To be he perfect this this paste paste must must not be be sticky. It Il is used used as an abaisse abaisse (q.v.) (q.v.) in various various sweet dishes and petits petits fours. fours. Almond Almood praline. rRALIN PRALIN Aux AUX AMANDnS AMANDES - Melt Melt 450 g. (l (l lb., lb., 2 cups) castor (fine) sugar slowly slowly in a copper pan. Cook it until until it reaches reaches the the degree of of light caramel, 160'C. 160C. (320"F.). (320"F .). Add to lb., 3 to this sugar sugar 450 g. (l (lIb., 3 cups) cups) raw unblanched unblanched wellwelldried almonds. Tip all ail this this mixture mixture onto an an oiled marble marbre slab. Allow to cool. Pound the the mixture in in a mortar. Pass Pass it through through a fine sieve. Keep Keep this this dry almond almond powder powder in tins with well-fitting well-fitting lids. Almond Almond tartlets. tartlets. TARTELETTES AMANDTNES AMANDINE.<; - The recipe recipe for these these very delicate tartlets tartlets was was set set to to rhyme rhyme by by Edmond Edmond Rostand in Cyrarn Cyrano de de Bergerac. Bergerac. The The recipe recipe itself itself is tS attributed to to Ragueneau, Ragueneau, the the famous famous seventeenth-century pastrypastrycook.

Here it is in verse: verse:

Comment on fail Comment on fait les tartelettes amandines amandines Battez, Battez, pour pour qu'ils soient mousseux,

Quelques eufs; ufs: Quelques Incorporez d leur mousse mousse jut de cCdrat Un Un jus cdrat choisi; choisi: Versez-y Un bon lait d'amande d'amanck douce; douce; Mettez de dflan ck la la pdte pte flan Dans le flanc flanc Dalll Ie De moules d tartelette; tartelette: D'tm D'un doigt doigt preste preste abricotez abricotez Les Les cdtds; cts; Versez Versez goutte d gouttelette Votre en ces puits, puis puis Votre mousse mousse m Que ces puits puits Que Passent anfour, au four, et, blondines, blondines, Sortant en gais troupelets, troupelets, Ce sont SOn! les t e le t t e s amandine s. Tar Tartelettes amandines.
Beat Beat your eggs, the yolk and white

Very light; their creamy creamy fluff Mingle with their Drops of of lime lime juice, juice, cool and green; greeo; Then Theo pour in Milk of of almonds, almonds. just just enough. enough. Dainty Dainty patty pans, pans, embraced embraced In puff-paste Have these these ready within reach; With With your thumb thumb and and finger, pinch pinch Half Half an inch inch the edge of of each Up around the Into Into these, these, a score or more, Slowly Slowly pour pour All Ail your store store of of custard; custard; so so Take them, them, bake them golden-brown golden-brown Now sit down! . .. ... Almond Almond tartlets!i tartlets!
* Cyruno de Bergerac From From Brian Brian Hooker's Hooker's translationof translation o/Cyrano Bergerac by by Ehnond EdmoruJ Rostand. Heinemann in association association with with Allen & tlnwin. Unwin. Ros/and. Published Published by Heinemann
AMANDfS ,ltr{tnss AMRES - Bitter almonds almonds owe Bitter almonds. AMANDES bitterness to to the relatively relatively high amount amount of of prussic acid their bitterness contain. They should therefore therefore be used in moderation. moderation. they contain. These almonds almonds are employed in pdtisserie ptisserie for flavouring fiavouring icings and and fillings; and and in confectionery. confectionery. They They are are not not used used as icings dessert fruit. The oil obtained obUlned from from them is is poisonous. poisonous. Bhnctd Blanched almonds. almonds. AMANDES AMANDES uoNoEss MONDES - Drid Dried almonds almonds from which which the the skin skin has has been been removed. removed. Proceed in in the from following following manner. manner. Put Put the almonds almonds into into a sieve; sieve; plunge plunge into into a a saucepan saucepan of of boiling boiling water water and immediately lmmediately draw the saucepan to to the the side of of the stove. Drain Drain the the almonds, a few few at at a time, lime, and aod skin skin thern them as soon as you see see that the the skin comes cornes off when when pressed with the If Drop them them into into cold water, water, drain and pat pat dry. If fingers. Drop t hey are to 10 be kept, kept, scatter sca tter on a sieve or fine grill and dry they a tin or jar jar with a thorougbly in a slow slow oven. oyen. Store Store in a thoroughly well-fitting well-fitting lid. lid. Keep Keep in a dry place. place. Chopped Chopped elmonds. almonds. AMANDES AMANDES HAcHEEs HACHES - These are are blanched blanched almonds almonds roughly roughly or finely chopped depending upon upon how how they are are to to be he employed. employed. Variously Coloured almonds. a Lmonds. AMANDES AMANDES cot.oRfEs COLORES Variously Coloured coloured shredded shredded and and ground ground almonds almonds are are used use<:! for for colourcolourcoloured ing ng nougat nougat and for for sprinkling sprinkling on iced iced petits petits fours, fours, cakes, cakes, biscuits biscuits (cookies) (eookies) and sweet dishes. dishes.

17

ALMONDS. EARTH ALMONDS,

appropriate to the colour may be added' added: thus Flavouring appropriate pink scented with raspberryessence, raspberry essence; mauve flavoured pink may be scented with wi th essence of violets. (Indian almond ahrod (lndian almond tree). uomum. - This Country 1Iimond tuee). BADAMIER Country in Asia. tree, wruch which is is also also ca called tree, lied catappa, grows generally in pleasant taste, from wruch oil an oil fruit is is an an almond, of pleasant which an The fmit somewhat similar to olive oil is extracted. produces resinous country almond produces and Another species of country resinous and aromatic matter, matter, a a kind kind of gum which is is used used in in aromatic gum benzoin, which confectionery. confectionery. EN ofs Dicd aImonds. almonds. AMANDEs Diced AMANDES EN DS - Blanched, Blanched, halved as required. They are or small dice as almonds cut into large or and in pdtisserie. used for sweet dishes and ptisserie. This is AMANDEs BRUTES BRUTEs the name almonds. AMANDES Raw 1Ilmonds. is the name given - This almonds which which have tn pdtisserie and confectionery confectionery to in ptisserie and to almonds are left unof their hard shells but simply been taken takeh out of simply hard shells but are skinned. Provengal almonds are the the most sought The hard-shelled Provenal after for pdtisserie. after ptisserie. But medium-sized almonds grown in the plains are also in great demand. These often contain quite a high proportion and are are the ones prehigh proportion of bitter bitter almonds and the ones for ma making ferred for king almond paste. biraudc almonds comprise comprise a smaller The broad and fleshy braude percentage percentage of bitter almonds and are generally shredded or ground and and used ground used for sprinkling on petits petits fours, fours, biscuits and sweet dishes. almonds are irregular in shape and very small. Tournefort a/monds Because excellent flavour, they are much in demand Because of their theu excellent for the confection confection of almond paste. cnIrrfss -- Shred Shed the almonds alnonds. Roasted almolld Roasled .... AMANDES GRILLES and dry thern them in the oven until they turn pale golden. AMANDEs SALES sALfEs almonds. AMANDES Salted almollds. - Toast sweet blanched almonds in the oven until their colour changes changes to pale yellow, almonds their colour with a pinch ofsaffron, of saffron, red pepper Sprinkle with turning once. Sprinkle tuming pepper and golden brown. Drain on a cloth ginger then fry in butter butter until golden ginger of and cool. Finally, coat the almonds with a clear solution of gum arabic and sprinkle sprinkle with fine salt. are used alnonds. AMANDES nrrnfrs Shredded almonds. EFFILES .. These are used a great deal Shredded and deal in pdtisserie confectionery. Shredded grcat ptisserie and in confectionery. roasted almonds are used for coating and garnishing sweet (white) almonds are are used shredded, unroasted (white) dishes; dishes; shredded, used for of cooked nougat, confection of coatinEpetitsfours, coating petits fours, and in the confection Mont6limar nougat, Montlimar nougat, petits petils fours, fours, meringues, meringues, almond slices, etc. There are several very efficient implements for shredding equally operation can be performed although the operation almonds, although perforrncd equally lengthwise and each The almonds should be cut lengthwise well by hand. Thealmondsshould weil becut This shou should shredded into twelve to one shredded Id be one to fifteen fifteen pieces. This and before after blanching done immediately irnroediately arter blancrung and berore the the almonds laid on on a a metal they should be are dried. dried. After are Aner shredding they be laid slow oven or orin avery sheetand sheet and dried dried in a very slow in awarmingcupboard. a warrning cupboard. During the drying drying process they should be turned three three times a Store in hermetically hermetically sealed tins. a day. Store onic.cfEs coated with hard dnonds DRAGES - Almonds coated Sugared almollds. (not, strictly strictly speaking, speaking, exactly sugar. Sugared almonds (not, exactly as we coated with know know thern them today, today, but but nevertheless nevertheless coated with sugar or It is said that around around the year a long history. Il honey) have a Roman family, a patrician Roman 177 t.c. 177 B.C. a farnily, the the illustrious Fabius of distributing sugared almonds to the family, had the habit of populace as a token of occasion of ofa ofrejoicing rejoicing on the occasion a birth birlh or of So il it is evident that the custom marriage in in the the family. farnily. So custorn of presenting at the of a a birth almonds at celebration of sugared almonds presenttng sugared the celebration goes goes back a very long way. It is is difficult to make make sugared almonds almonds at home, home, and hardly necssary, necessary, considering the excellent excellent sugared almonds manuare made Some are factured commercially. Some factured commercially. made from from windfall wndfall almonds; almonds; others with hazelnuts or pistachios; pistachios; others again almond or chocolate, almond filled with drops of of liqueur, chocolate, few drops filled with a a few are particularly etc. Verdun filbert paste, etc. Verdun sugared almonds are particularly esteemed. DoucEs almonds. AMANDES DOUCES Sweet almollds. - Sweet almonds are in great demand and confectionery; demand for pdtisserie confectionery; ail all Spanish gat ptisserie and and Italian almonds are sweet. and esteemed as dessert fruit Green sweet almonds are greatly esteemed and are consumed consumed in great quantities. They are less oily and and that reason easier to digest digest than dryalmonds. dry.almonds. for that Whole 1Ilmonds. AMANDEs ENTIRES ENTTiRES .. almonds AMANDES When a Wbole a recipe in - When pdtisserie and confectionery confectionery calls calls for a certain certain amount amount of ptisserie and for a whole almonds, this means blanched almonds and not raw always referred to as raw, meaning with almonds, which are always the thin brown skin left on.
AMANDEs DE These are EARTH. AMANDES rERRE .. ALMONDS, EARTH. DE TERRE - These grow in marshy ground ground in countries cyperus tubers, tubers, which grow and tempera temperate climates. with hot and te c1imates. These almond-shaped atnond-shaped tubers outside, very are brown These tubers are brown outside, white inside inside and extremely starchy. They can either be eaten (like hazelnuts) or cooked (like chestnuts). kind of raw (Iike chestnuts). A kind raw flour is made from them.

ALOCASIA ALOCASIA - Plant indigenous to the Indies of which there known species. important of are about fifteen species. The The most arc fifteen known most important these, a native of Ceylon, has spread throughout of the ofCeylon, throughout most of as a Indian subcontinent. There its il, voluminous voluminous roots serve as prolonged period of cooking. cooking. food, but only after a prolonged

ALOE. Aloiis ALOS - A genus of plants plants belonging to the family purgative gum plant a Liliaceae. From of this a purgative From the the leaves of this plant Liliaceae. resin resin is extracted. Certain species found in Vietnam Vietnam produce an edible starch. starch.
ALPIIEUS. ALPHE erpruu-A shellfish with a slightly slightly corn comALPHEUS. -- A kind of shellfish Some species species pressed body body resembling that of the crayfish. Sorne are found in ail all French coastal coastal waters; others are peculiar peculiar to the Mediterranean. Mediterranean. Sorne are confined to the seas Some varieties are of Asia, Australia and America. America. quality to the spiny Although spiny lobster, this shellshellAlthough inferior in quality fish fish is is quite highly esteemed. All Ail methods of preparation given for lobster lobstcr are applicable to it. il.
stocked with ALSACE ALSACEAisatian larder larder is is well weIl stocked with numerous - The Alsatian of good fare excellent foods. Alsace and excellent Alsace has a long tradition tradition of surprising that 50 not surprising that its its gastronomic gastronomie repertoire repertoire is is a so it is is not lengthy one, full of succulent succulent dishes. source of of unendColmar come that source From From Strasbourg and Colmar gourmands, the and terrines and ing delight to ing delight to gourmands, the magnificent magnificent terrines i! thcir gras truffs, pdtis truffis, which rival in pts de foies gras their delicacy even of France France (see PTS, PATES, TERRlNES). TERRINES). those of of the south-west south-west of found delectable charcuteries The most delectable charcuteries in France are also found in and thanks to the quality of the pork in Alsace, and pork shoulder, saveloy and sausages, the smoked bacon, save/oy and sausages, the choucroute choucroute prepared d la mode strasbourgeolse strasbourgeoise is more delicious than than any others. others. andfoies gras truffis, But choucroute truffs, excellent excellent though though they cllOucroute andfoies specialities. be, are not the only specialities. Pork is particularly Meat in this of good quality. Pork particularly trus region is of ('the noble pig') holds a place of high tasty. Seigneur cochon ('the honour in Alsace. Alsace. The The Benedictine monks were the first to recognise the advantages advantages of ofpig recognise pig breeding. were the first to keep fish 'The Benedictine monks, who were 5sh ponds, thus thus laying the the basis basis of pisciculture, pisciculture, were were also the advantages of pig first first to to recognise recognise the the advantages pig breeding,' breeding,' writes Paul Bouillard in an essay on the cookery of of Alsace. Alsace. In ln fact, firm-textured, delicately the the region region produces produces firmtextured, delicately flavoured, flavoured, admirable admirable pork. The Strasbourg pork butchers, butchers, masters masters of their art, transform it into a number of preparations preparations which which are not only enjoyed of Alsace cnjoyed by the gourmets of Alsace but in all ail the best Paris restaurants.

l8 18

ALSACE

I NE 'I\_rtr _ :

MA.NY

''-;ffl r,"*Yr.r'",'\egetabl

It Alsatian Alsatian geese geese are famous for the delicacy of their flesh. It geese that is from from these these specially fattened geese that the magnificent magnmcent Alsace transmattres de cuisine in Alsace liver liver is obtained which the matres and terrines. celebrated pdtes form so skilfully skilfully into the celebrated fonn pts and good. And good and and taste good. The vegetables of Alsace look good produce delectable fruit of delectable fruit of which of Alsace produce the the orchards orchards of
plums, some, such as quetsches (Alsace plums) and mirabelle plums, sorne, fresh but are also used used to make are not only delicious to eat fresh (see SPIRITS). not be The list list wou would noted eaux-de-vie eaux-de-vie (see SPIRITS). The noted Id not and the the raspthe cherries cherries and complete without without mentioning the complete make well-known liqueurs. which are are distilled to to make berries, berries, which does not know fish are renowned, too. Who does The freshwater fish trout, salmon, the river trou of the Rhine salmon, the succulence of t, the crayand the eels, eels, tench tench and the Vosges; Vosges; the fish from from the the streams streams of of the fish vin d'Alsace d'Alsace are are au vin matelotes au from which which delicious matelotes bream from prepared prepared ? no means menWith such raw materials - and we have by no and cordon cordon bleu mattes de de cuisine cuisine and all of them the matres tioned aIl - the Alsace well. In fact the Alsace Alsace cannot help but cook weil. of Alsace chefs of meal is a a perfect epicurean epicurean symphony. meal Strasbourg and and de Strasbourg magnificent choucroute chouuoute de the magnificent Besides the Besides principal pdti gras aux the principal are the aix truffes truffes the the following are pt de foie gras of the the region's representative of Alsace, dishes truly truly representative dishes of Alsace, superb cuisine: potee : matelote specialities Alsatian pote: matelote of of fish de Culinary specialities .fish de - Aisatian carp d Alsatian wine'; wine'; stuffed carp in Alsatian I'Ill; crayfish crayfish'cardinalised l'Ill; 'cardinalised in veal; hot hot meat breast of of veal; stuffed crayfish flan; l'alsacienne; crayfish tuffed breast flan; s noodles ; pdti ; anion of hare hare with with noodles; zewelewai; civet civet of onion flan or zewelewal; pt; flan or kind of estouffade estouffade a kind beckenoffe, a hare d la la crme; crime; beckenoffe, saddle of hare pork and potatoes, which which must must be and potatoes, made with with mutton, mutton, pork made justify its geese d name; fat its name; in a a baker's to justify cooked cooked in baker's oyen oven to fat geese pickled pork with pickled shoulder of of pork i.e., shoulder I'alsacienne;the l'alsaCienne; the schifela, i.e., pastry; fricasse of chicken chicken d in pastry; turnips; ham ham cooked cooked in turnips; fricassde of goose; turkey calfs turkey with with chestnuts; chestnuts; calf's salmis of of goose; I'alsacienne; salmis l'alsacienne; pork partridges;kalerei, akind of partridges; of pork liverfritters; liver fritters; chartreuse kalerel, a kind of chartreuse of puddings, saveloys and sausages; sausages; saveloys and brawn; Strasbourg Strasbourg black brawn; black puddings, goret' ; red with pig ' 'd la peau de red cabbage cabbage with de goret'; stufed sucking sucking pig la peau stuffed rabi potatoes d la la crme; crime; kohl rabi d l'alsacienne; I'alsacienne; kohl chestnuts; potatoes chestnuts;

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Gastronomie map of Alsace Gastronomic map of Alsace

$itirj:iifl'fiii,=''

(pork butcher:y AJsatian produce): Alsatian charcuterie charcuterie (pork butchery produce): (Schinkenwurst); (knackwurst);2. l. usages (knackwurst); 2. Saveloys; 4. Metwurst; 6. Ham Ham sausage pudding with l. Little Little Strasbourg with tangue; sausage (Schinkenwurst); Black pudding Strasbourg sa sausages Saveloys; 3. 3. Thann Thann sausage; Metwurstl 5. tongue;6. 5. Black sausage;4. in 7. 7. Schwartenroagen; Bierwurst; 9. Veal roll; roll; 10. 10. Schwartwurst; I l. Strasbourg 12. Mulhouse 13. Lyon Lyon type type sausageroade sausage made in Schwartenmagen; 8. 8. Bierwurst; 9. Veal Schwartwurst; Il. Strasbourg sausage; sausage; 12. Mulhouse sausage; sausage; J3. gras Strasbourg; 14. Leberwurst; Leberwurst; 15. 15. Tongue Tongue roll roli with with truffies; 16. Veal Veal roll roll with with foie foie gras Strasbourg; 14. trufres; 16.

19 19

(A L') ALSACIENNE ( L') ALSACIENNE

Wasselonne
o

s'n"^"*

-, - Q!?"w.E

R'TS1st

Alsatian kugelhopf kugclbopf Alsatian

iylvtancr

noodles d l'alsacienne; l'alsacienne; knepfle. knepfle,a fritter; mi/chstriwle; kind of of fritter; milchstriwle; noodles a kind bretzel; schenkele; schenkele; beignets (carnival beignets de de carnaval carnaval (car fritters); bretzel; nival fritters); various types types of of Aisatian Alsatian tarts; tarts; kougloff kougloff or or kugelhopf; kugelhopf; various Jewish kouguel; kouguel ; bi/berry kafeekrantz, etc. bilberry flan; etc. Jewish flan ; kaffeekrantz, Winos To accompany good things, accompany ail all these these good things, Alsace Alsace WiDes - To produceq in in addition addition to to a a delicious delicious beer, some rare rare and and beer, sorne produces, exceptional wines, which which are are mostly white. white. The decree decree of of 3 3 October 1962 created October 1962 created the the appellation appellation The 'Alsace' or or 'vin 'vin d'Alsace'. d'Alsace'. This This appellation appellation can include the can include 'Alsace' the grape. In variety of grape. In fact, fact, Alsace Alsace wine wine does does not not usually usually bear bear variety the na name of the the locality locality from from which which it it cornes, comes, but but of of the the me of the grape used production. used in in its its production. variety of grape Cipaga nobles. nobles. Sylvaner. Sylvaner. A fresh, fruit fruity wine, best drunk Cpages y wine, best drunk young. Excellent accompaniment for for sauerkraut sauerkraut and and charcharyoung. cuterie. Muscat. A A wine wine with with a a distinct aromatic aromatic Bavour flavour tbat that is is Muscat. an apritif ap'6ritif or dessert dessert wine. generally served as an (or 'Alsace Tokay'): gris (or Tokay'): Quite a full-bodied full-bodied wine wine Pinot gris Quite a with a a delicate bouquet. (or Clevner): Pinot blanc blanc (or A fresh, freslr" rather rather sharp Clevner): A Pinot sharp wine, often used used for blending. Gewiirztraminer and Traminer. Traminer. The The wine from from tbis grape this grape Gewrztrarniner is very fruit fruity, a distinctive distinctive flavour, flavour, and and is is often drunk y, with a well weil matured. dty, very elegant elegant wine, full of vigour. vigour. Perfect Riesling. A dry, for fish, goes well seafood. It It also also goes well with with sauerfish, shellfish and seafood. kraut.

Hardt Clevner

IINE
iVeuf

rch;/ Guebwr'ller

Wine Wine map map of of Alsace Alsace

Cpages Cdpages courants. Chasselas and Kniperl. Kniperl6. Carafe Chasselas and Carafe wines. wines. The The wine resulting from from the the blending of of cpages cipages nobles nobles and and cpages cipages courants is is called called Zwicker. Zwicket Edelzwicker Edelzwicker is is the name the name given to a a b1end blend of cpages cipages nobles. nobles. Red wines wines and and Ross. Rosis. The The red red wines wines are made from from the are made the black Pinot grape, grape, ros ros6 from the grey Pinot grape. Producthe grey Pinot grape. Production is poor compared to that of of white wine. wine. The The name of of the the locality locality often grape. Among often accompanies accompanies that that of of the the grape. Among the best known are Ammerschwihr, Ammerschwihr, Barr, Barr, Eguisheim, KaysersKaysersberg, berg, Kientzheim, Kientzheim, Mittelwihr, Ribeauvill, Ribeauvill6, Riquewihr. Riquewihr. ALSACIENNE ALSACIENNE (A L') applying to ro an an enormous enonnous - Definition app1ying number of preparations. The predominating predominating ingredients of of dishes prepared are dishes thus are sauerkraut, ham thus prepared ham and and Strasbourg Strasbourg sausage. sausage.

ALUM. ALUN sulphate of aluminium and and potas- A double sulphate sium or ammonium; an an astringent-tasting astringent-tasting salt. salt. Alum was once used used in confectionery confectionery to set the co10ur to set colour of of ptisserie to crystallised fruits, fruits, and and in in pdtisserie prevent egg to prevent egg whites whi1e being whisked. This from curdling while from is now This is now forbidden forbidden by law.
ALUMINlTE -A - A kind kind of alumina-based fireproof ALLTMINITE of alumina-based fireproof porcelain. Ali porcelains, in fact, fact, are based on All are based silicates, but alumina silicates, on alumina but
Vines Vines in in Alsace Alsace (French (French Government Governmenr Tourist Tourisi Ofice) Office)

higher content content of aluminite has a higher of alumina alumina (oxide of of alumialumiis consequently much tougher than nium) and is than other other porceresistance to heat. lains and possesses a far greater resistance to heat.

20 20

AMBIGU

kitchen utensils: utensils : Aluminite kitchen L Gratin dish: 2. Saucepan: Shell; 10. Souffl SouffiE dish dish; 2. 4. Saut dish; 7. 7. Plate; Plate; 8. 8. Rarnekin: Ramekin; 9. 9. Shell; Saucepan; 3. 3. Coffee fiIter; 1. 6lter: 4. Saut6 pan; 5. 5. Vegetable steamer; 6. 6. Snail dish;

lightness. silver, sil ver, its principal characteristic being its extreme extreme lightness. of aluminium have led to its use The numerous properties of marmites, manufacture of of kitchen utensils: saucepans, marmites, in the manufacture stewpans, etc. previously etc. Conclusive Conclusive experiments experiments were were previously stewpans, action various liquids used carried out to determine the action used in preparation of food had on aluminium. food had the preparation It has been proved that there is little or no reaction with pure a1cohol, red or or white white wine, wine, brandy, red brandy, pure alcohol, coffee coffee or or tea beer, 5 per cent cent solution of tartaric, acetic, poured in hot, beer, acids, 3 per cent solution of butyric citric, lactic or phenic acids, per cent solution 0'2 percent solution ofsalicylic of salicylic acid. Nitric acid, on the acid, 02 vigorously. other hand, attacks the metal vigorously.

ALUMINIUM Ductile, resistant metal looks like metal that that looks - Ductile,

AMANITA. AMANITE AMANIT A. AMANITE of the agaric agaric group. - A genus of fungi of of amanitae, amanitae, sorne some edible, others There are numerous species of is, therefore, very important and even deadly. It is, dangerous and MUSHROOMS.) to learn to recognise them. (See MUSHROOMS.)

positively ecstatic outpouring, sings the praises Savarin, in a positively of the restorative powers of ambergris chocolate. This product, which which was was formerly uSed in confectionery This used in confectionery perfumery. used as il a fixative in perfmery. and in cookery, is today used In Miditation Z1 Brillat-Savarin refers to ln Mditation VI Brillat-Savarin refers to ambergris 'I know that as the africted': '1 chocolate as the 'chocolate of the the affiicted': glorious memory, constantly Marshal Richelieu, of glorious Marshal constantly chewed get one as for myself, when 1 I get one of those ambergris lozenges; lozenges; as felt, or when one's days when the weight of age makes itself itself feh, sluggish, 1 I add a knob of of ambergris ambergris the size of of a bean, mind is sluggish, pounded with sugar, I a strong sugar, to to a strong cup cup of chocolate, and and 1 poundedwith always find find my condition improves improves marvellously. marvellously. The my condition always flow with ease; burden of life becomes lighter, thoughts ftow ease, and I do do not suffer from insomnia, which would have have been 1 bden the invariable result of a cup of coffee taken for the same purinvariable pose.' highly praises the power of Brillat-Savarin also bighly of ambergris in his Magl'stires Magistres Restaurants. Restaurants.

plant is AMARANTH. This plant ,lMA.n.ANrp is cultivated cultivated in AMARANTH. AMARANTE - This for the beauty of its ftowers. flowers. In In Italy, howFrance mainly for leaves of one variety variety of amaranth are eaten, ever, the tender leaves prepared rather like spinach. spinach.
Nvrsns GRIS cRIs intestinal concretion concretion of of the AMBERGRIS. AMBRE - An intestinal sperm whale found found ftoating floating on the Far Eastern Eastern sperm the surface of Far wax-like substance, dotted with yellow and black seas. It is a wax-like spots, and possessing a strong and pleasant smel!. spots, sed in smell. U Used ancient pharmacopoeia as as an an antispasmodic, it it was also ancient wasalso Brillatcredited with aphrodisiac and restorative properties. Brillat-

(Cold collation) gives the collation) AMBIGU (Cold Trivoux Dictionary gives - Trvoux 'A mixed following definition: at which definition: 'A mixed collation collation at which meat following such a manner manner as to make one and fruit are served together together in such wonder whether it is a simple collation or a supper.' In other dictionaries same dictionaries the ln the sa me definition, or or nearly nearly the same, sa me, is given with the proviso that the dishes served at this of meal must be cold. kind of lnhis de cuisine, cuisine, Joseph Favre says ln his Dictionnaire Dictionnaire universel universel de that the word ambigu is applicable to a meal which is taken dinner. or between dinner and lunbetween luncheon and dinner,

Amanitae

2l 21

AMBROSIA AMBROSIA
cheon, and at which ail all the dishes, the sweets and the dessert, cheon, are served at the same lime. time. This name name should apply specifically to an evening evening meal, to an between midnight and or supper served between and two o'dock in the o'clock in the (evening party). morning, in the course of a soire morning, soirie (evening
ambrosier, a bush with sweet-smelling leaves. It It flowers and and leaves. sweet-smelling flowers arnbrosier, said to have have restorative powers, especially for stomachic restorative powers, especially for is said complaints. complaints.
AMBROSIE from the the made from A kind kind of of tea tea made AMBROSIA. tr,rnnosrE -A

found in The species in Asia Asia and and Africa. Africa. The known under found species known under the the of Amomum Amomwn cardamon name of scientific scientific name cardamon produces capsular capsular fruit often called called cardamom, cardamom, which which are are used as as a a substitute substitute for real real cardamom. cardamom. quantities of Considerable Considerable quantities of amomum amomum are are exported exported from from Siam, Siam, Singapore Singapore and and Saigon. In France France the Saigon. In the seeds seeds are are grains of variously variously known known as as grains of paradise, Malaguetta Malaguetta pepper, grains, and Guinea are occasionally used as a a sulJstlltulte substitute for Guinea grains, and are used as pepper.
AMOUAMOU - Barnaise B6arnaise cheese cheese consumed consumod from from October October to to May. May. AMOURETTES AMOURETTES -- Culinary name for Culinary name for the the spinal spinal marrow marrow of of oxen amourettes, very delicate oxen and and calves. calves. Calves' delicate in in flavour, flavour, Calves'amourettes, pies, vol-au-vent, are patties, hot are used as as a a filling filling for for patties, hot timbales,pies, vol-au-vent, etc. etc. Amourettes prepared as Amourettes can can also also be be prepared as an an independent independent dish, dish, made made into into croquettes, and various croquettes, and various fried fried dishes, dishes, etc. etc. Ives' and Most Most of and lambs' lambs' brains of th..:: the recipes recipes given for for ca brains calves' which amourettes amourettes rather resemble resemble -- can be applied to to them. them. can be No first No matter how how amourettes amourettes are are prepared, they should should first be (q.v.) in the same in court-bouillon way as as calves' be boiled court-bouillon (q.v.) same way calves' boiled in (see OFFAL and brains (see and lambs' lambs'brains MEATS). OFFAL or or VARIETY VARIETY MEATS). AMPHICLES More AMPHICLES -- Celebrated cook of ancient Greece. Greece. More Celebrated cook of ancient than his colleagues of of that that distant distant epoch, epoch, Amphicles Amphicles than any any of of his deserves alone recognised recognised He alone from oblivion. oblivion. He deserves to to oe be rescued from ail ostentatious in in the the all that and foolishly foolishly ostentatious that was wa3 barbarous barbarous and culinary and in in his time, his teachings, teachings, and time, and methods of of his and in in bis culinary methods - practice, practice, he them a a task of he devoted himself to to the of bringing bringing to to them devoted himself the task saner prepare nature's nature's products liked to saner logic. 'Amphicles liked to prepare simply. a spit spit and and served underundersimply. He had a hare cooked cooked on on a done fennel. nothing but a sprinkling sprinkling of of coriander coriander and and fenne!. done with with nothing but a He pig should sucking pig simply be be boiled boiled He maintained maintained that that a a sucking should simply and leaves sage. He He wrapped larks larks in in vine vine leaves and placed on on a a bed bed of of sage. and among the the them among and red mullet mullet in in fig fig leaves leaves and and cooked them cinders. No-one knew knew better a cinders. No-one better than than he he how how to to harmonise harmonise a piece piece of disapproved more aromatic. No-one No-one disapproved of flesh flesh and and an an aromatic. more than t he did did of the flavour flavour of of a a mea meat than he of the the practice of disguising the or vegetable. This friend friend of of Theotime even even used spics used spices or vegetable. sparingly predecessors ndiscrimisparingly in in his his sauces. sauces. Where Where bis his predecessors indiscriminately nately mixed mixed the' the- most most iIl-assorted ill-assorted condiments condiments together, together, where lavished twenty where his his emulators, emulators, whimsical whimsical to to excess, lavished twenty ingredients a single single dish, dish, Amphicles himself to to ingredients on on a Amphicles confined himself two three.' two or or three.' Our maltre de de cuisine cuisine Our reason reason for for dwelling dwelling on on this this ancient ancient matre is ply to practitioners of is sim simply to remind remind more more modern modern practitioners of the the art art that lie in that cuIinary culinary merit merit does does not ndt necessarily necessarily lie in the the extravaextravagance gance of of the the trimmings. trimmings. AMPHITRYON (tlost) -- Authors gastronomical books Authors of of gastronomical books AMPHITRYON (Host) (such (such as la Reynire, Reynidre, Berchoux, Berchoux, as Brillat-Savarin, Brillat-Savarin, Grimod Grimod de de la Monselet Monselet and and Chavette) and most dictionaries define define the the most dictionaries Chavette) and word 'the one as 'the whom we we dine'. According to to Molire: Molidre: word as one with with whom dine'. According 'The 'The real real Amphitryon Amphitryon Is st with I dne.' Is mine mine ho host with whom whom 1 dine.' Ail gastronomical writers precepts on All the the gastronomical writers have have laid laid down down precepts on the guests. The relationships of hosts and and guests. The most most famous the relationships of hosts famous of of these la dela works is is the Manuel des des amphitryons arnphitryons by by Grimod Grimod de these works the Manuel Reynire. Reynidre. In le recent times In more more recent Auguste Michel Michel has has devoted devoted aawho whole times Auguste book 'the man full of receives at at his his book full of usefuJ useful hints hints to to 'the man who who receives table' table' concerning concerning his his rle r6le of Manuel des des of host, host, entitled entitled Manuel nn<mhitrufllH au debut du XX" sicle. amphitryons an debut fu X)( siicle. host, means host, only means speaking the the word word rnnhitnJAn amphitryon only Strictly "P'-"""".5, and on who person who enterenterand applies, and should only only apply, to the pers tains his table. table. tains someone someone at at rus We host was in find it it difficult to imagine imagine what what aa host was like We find difficult to like in ancient amphitryons, of the the most celebrated amphitryons, ancient times. times. One One of most celebrated
22 22

AMLON A French a for a French word used in in Normandy for word used AMELEON -A

particular kind of of cider.

AMERICA (See WINES, WINES, INTERand cuisine. cuisine. (See Wines and - Wines COOKERY.) NATIONAL COOKERY.) AMRICAINE ( given to various methods of (A V) of L) anAEnfClINE - Name given preparing meat, prethese prevegetables. Among Among these preparing fish, eggs, eggs, vegetables. meat, fish, the best-known (see I'amiricaine (see is Lobster Lobster d l'amricaine parations the best-known is LOBSTER). AMERICAN P ARTRIDGE. COLIN partridge Bird of the partridge PARTRIDGE. corrN -- Bird of the quail, very family, a in America. a little larger than than quail, very common in The (bob-white, quail (bob-white, The colin colin loui, loui, also also called called American Americmt quail Virginian colin) is highly esteemed Virginiot esteemed in in the United States, States, and and the United is now established established in England. (For its culinary preparation, see see QUAIL, QUAIL, PARTRIDGE.) AMIENS gastronomically AMIENS is famous, famous, gastronomically - This town in Picardy is speaking, its andouillettes speaking, for its duck pie, its andouillettes and and its macaroons. macaroons. AMIRAL (A L') fish dishes. dishes. The The charactercharacterAMIRAL ( - Name given to fish istic garnish, composed of dishes is is their their garnish, composed of these dishes istic feature of these fried mussels which and truffies, trufres, to which mussels and and oysters, oysters, crayfish tails and peeled peeled mushrooms are are added. added. The The sauce is a a Normandy sauce is sauce (see SAUCE) (see flavoured with SAUCE) flavoured with Crayfish Crayfish butter butter (see sauce (see BUTTER). BUTTER). AMMAPERDRIX partridge A variety variety of of the AMMAPERDRD( the European European partridge -A found It only in Algeria, Algeria, Egypt, Israel, India India and and Persia. Persia. It only Egypt, Israel, found in differs (it is is smaller) red-legged partridge in from the in its its size size (it smaller) the red-legged differs from and likes in the absence of a tarsal The ammaperdrix ammaperdrix likes the absence of a and in tarsal spur. spur. The hiding partridge, feeds places and, like the French partridge, hiding in in rocky and, like feeds rocky places the French on plants resembling wild thyme. They are are and wild on plants resembling thyme thyme and thyme. They sometimes Mediterfields on on the wandering about about the sometimes found found wandering the fields the Mediterranean given of France. France. Ail All methods methods of of preparation given ranean coast coast of for (q.v.) can partridge (g.v.) applied to for partridge can he to this be applied this bird. AMMOCOETE. - A fish lamprey, fish resembling resembling the the lamprey, errarrlocire-A AMMOCOETE. AMMOCTE found the Seine. Seine. mouth of of the found in in the the mouth The (q.v.) and given for preparation given for eel eel (q.v.) and The methods methods of of preparation lamprey applicable to fish. lamprey (q.v.) are are applicable to this this fish. AMMONlA. gaseous compound of nitrogen nitrogen compound of AMMoNIAc -- A A gaseous AMMONIA. AMMONIAC and possessing strong caustic proand caustic strong alkaline alkaline and hydrogen possessing and hydrogen perties. sneezing, gas affects perties. This the breathing breathing and and causes causes "ll",L.!Jl)';, This gas affects the watering soluble in It is is easily easily soluble and cougrung. coughing. Il of the the eyes, eyes, and watering of water, volatile liquid ammonia ammonia or or volatile constitutes liquid and then then constitutes water, and alkali (the aqueous of it it A few few drops of solution of of ammonia). ammonia). A aqueous solution alkali (the are vomiting. of inebriety inebriety to to induce induce vomi'tml!. in cases cases of are recommended recommended in "",,,'liTJ''U>J.~'''''', cARBoNATE .luttloNIAQUE, CARBONATE OF. AMMONIAQUE, AMMONIA, CARBONATE CARBONATE OF. heat into into action of of heat under the the action decomposes under D' - A salt that decomposes ammonia gaseous) without leaving without leaving acid (both gaseous) carbonic acid ammonia and and carbonic preparations under names It is is used in certain preparations under the the names any residue. residue. It used in powder or or Alsatian Alsatian yeast to render non-fermented non-fermented of baking powder to render dough porous. The gases, in occupy a and porous. in escaping, occupya spongy and dough spongy greater an the grains of flour, vacuoles greater volume and form vacuoles the grains flour, and v-olume th than in thedough. These then disappear completely if the heat of of in the dough. These then disappear completely if the heat the oyen is sufficiently strong. strong. is sufficiently the oven AMOMUM. ginger family family herb of of the the ginger AMoME -- Perennial Perennial herb AMOMUM. AMOME

ANAEMIA ANAEMIA

Terracotta amphorae amphorae for for Terracolla storing oil oil or or wine wine storing

Decorated Greek Greek amphora amphora Decorated

historical or or legendary, legendary, was was Lucullus. Lucullus. He He can can be as a a be taken as historical model of amphitryons, for of amphitryons, forhe guests truly offered his his guests trulymagnifihe offered magnifimodel feasts. cent feasts. cent Historians havegiven have given us us accounts accounts of of the the lavishness lavishness of of Historians Maecenas' table; table; he, he, too, too, is is described great master of described as as a a great of Maecenas' the art art of of entertaining. entertaining. Heliogabulus Heliogabulus was was another renowned the for the the extraordinary extraordinary luxury luxuryof his table. table. Then Then there there were were the for of his men of three men (see of the the name Apicius in in ancient ancient Rome Rome (see name Apicius three APTCTUS). APICIUS). Let us us not not forget forget Assurbanipal, Assurbanipal, even even though he he belongs belongs to Let legend rather rather than than to history. He was one one of of the the most legend to history. He was ostentatious of of the the Assyrian Assyrian kings kings none other than than the ostentatious - none legendary Sardanapalus. Sardanapalus. legendary Belshazzar, must have grand amphitryon on a grand Belshazzar, too, too, must have been been an an amphitryon on a scale, because when describing even describing a a truly scale, because ev en today, today, when truly magnifimagnificent still say say that we still that it it was'a was 'a veritable veritable Belshazzar's Belshazzar's cent banquet, banquet, we feast'. feast'. 'For a 'For a rich rich man,'writes man,' writes Grimod Grimod de de la la Reynidre, Reynire, 'the 'the best r6le is that rle in in the the world world is that of of host.' host.' Berchoux, says: Berchoux, for for his his part, part, says:

ground or on on a a specially specially constructed pierced pierced shelf. ground

AMYGDALINE name for for the the substance substance that AMYGDALINE - Chemical name makes the the oil oil of bitter almonds noxious. noxious. Amygdalin is makes is the the all substances, cakes or sweets, sweets, that contain term applied to ail almonds. ANAEMIA. ANMIE llwrtIun characterised by a diminuANAEMIA. - Anaemia is characterised tion of of the the red red corpuscles corpuscles of the blood. Persons suffering tion the blood. anaemia are said to be anaemic. anaemic. from anaemia Diet for anaemcs anaemics - Iron being the principal medicine for anaemic conditions, conditions, dieticians introduce introduoe as as many iron-rich anaemic foods into possible. These the diet diet as as possible. yolk of These are are yolk foods into the of egg, meat, pig's (animal origin); green cabbage, blood, etc. origin); green etc. (animal meat, pig's blood, spinach, chicory, chicory, oats, oats, lentils, white haricot beans, carrots, etc. (vegetable is naturally etc. (vegetable origin); also also red red wine. wine. It It is naturally advisable, before following following such a diet, diet, to take into account the condition of of the digestive digestive organs, since they are usually usually deficient. This is the reason why, for example, ex ample, pig's blood, although rich in iron, can can rarely rarely be he used. used. This This diet diet has rich in recently been modified modified following research research carried carried out by an American scholar, Dr. American scholar, Dr. Whipple, Whipple, who who has has proved proved both experimentally experimentally and in in practice practice that that calfs calfs liver liver is the the food food that best assures the regeneration of of the the blood; blood; kidneys, hearts hearts and meat also react react well, weil, but but less effectively. The efrcacy efficacy of preparations preparations based based on on dehydrated dehydrated stomach, usually prescribed in pharmaceutical pharmaceutical form, has has also also been been recognised. recognised. Whipple's diet consists of a daily ration of 150-250 g. (5-9 (5-9 oz.) calf's liver eaten for breakfast breakfast or lunch, a little meat, meat, fresh fresh vegetables vegetables chosen chosen from those those rich rich in iron, iron, fruit fruit (peaches, (peaches, apples, etc.). etc.). Bread, Bread, starch starch products, products, eggs eggs and sugar sugar are are restricted; restricted; oils and and fats fats are are forbidden forbidden apart apart from from a a little little fresh fresh butter; butter; skinmed skimmed milk milk is is generally generally allowed. allowed. The The Iiver liver has has preferably preferably to to be be eaten eaten raw, raw, especially especially for for grave grave forms of pernicious pernicious anaemia. anaemia. forms of There There are are various various recipes recipes for for the the preparation preparation of of raw raw or or cooked cooked liver. liver. Raw Raw liver. liver. Slice Slice the the liver, liver, then then mince mince it. it. The The resulting resulting pulp pulp should should be he free free from from all all stringy stringy tissues. tissues. Serve Serve it it in in sandwiches, sandwiches, or or mixed mixed with with preserves, preserves, or or with with wann warm beef beef tea tea to to form fonn a a pur6e. pure. There is even even a a recipe recipe for for liver liver cocktail. cocktail. Pound Pound about about There is 100 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz.) oz.) lightly lightly cooked cooked liver. liver. Place Place on on lettuce lettuce leaves, leaves, and and season season with with salt salt and and pepper. pepper. Add Add a a slice slice of of raw raw tomato, tomato, choppd chopped parsley parsley and and a a little little mustard. mustard. Prepare Prepare It cup cup tomato tomato sauce, sauce, * t cup cup lemon lemon juice, juice, 2 2 coffeespoons coffeespoons Worcestershire Worcestershire sauce,1| sauce, t coffeespoon coffeespoonfinely finely chopped chopped shallots, shallots, salt salt and and pepper. pepper.
23 23

'S'il est 'S'il est un un r6le rle noble noble et et bien bien digne digne d'envie, d'envie, C'est C'est celui celui d'un d'un mortel mortel qui quifait en sa sa maison, maison, fait en Les Les honneurs honneurs de de sa sa table table en en digne digne amphitryon.' amphitryon.'

The of his his table table like like a a true true amphitryon.' amphitryon.' The honours honours of Barras, Cambac6rds and Talleyrand Barras, Cambacrs and Talleyrand were were distinguished distinguished amphitryons. amphitryons. Napoleon Napoleon said said of of Cambacerds: Cambacrs: 'If 'If you you wish wish to to eat Other tables tables eat really really well, weil, go go and and visit visit my my arch-chancellor.' arch-chancellor.' Other were their food, were renowned renowned for for the the quality quality of oftheir food, although although some, sorne, like that of of Princess Princess Mathilde, Mathilde, for for their their mediocrity. mediocrity. The The like that disappearance disappearance of of great great wealth, wealth, the the servant servant problem, problem, the the habit of entertaining entertaining in in restaurants, restaurants, have have pushed pu shed amphiamphihabit of tryonism tryonism to to the the background. background. But But there there are are still still houses houses where where great great pains pains are are taken taken to to ensure ensure the the bonheur bonheur gourmand gourmand of of the the guests. guests.

'If 'If there there is is a a noble noble r6le, rle, a a truly truly enviable enviable one, one, It It is is that that of of a a mortal mortal who who in in his his house house does does

amphora, of the the Romans, Romans, was was 25.89litres. 2589 litres. An An amphora amphora amphora, that that of kept kept in in the the Capitol Capitol served served as as a a standard standard measure. measure. The The Attic Attic arrphor4 of the the Greeks, Greeks, was was a a third third larger. larger. Amphorae Amphorae amphora, that that of were were used used to to store store oil, oil, wine, wine, olives olives and and raisins. raisins.

AMPHORA. AMPHORA. AMpHoRE AMPHORE - A A terracotta terracotta vase vase used used in in ancient ancient t'mes times for for measuring measuring liquids. liquids. The The capacity capacity of of the the Italic Italic

The amphora was was sess/r.s sessilis or or non non se.rsills sessilis according according to to The amphora whether whether it it stood stood upright upright on on its its base base or or terminated terminated in in a a rounded in a a hole hole in in the the rounded point. point. In In the the latter latter case case it it was was placed placed in

ANAGNOST ANAGNOST
1 part part of minced minced or grated grated liver to 2l 21 pans parts of this this Mix I shake and and chill. chilI. mixture, shake Ca/f's liver /iver an au gratin. Blanch Blanch and and dice dice 450 450 g. (l (1 lb.) calf's calf's Calf's liver, and and place place it on a a buttered buttered plate. Cover with breadliver, crumbs, white sauce sauce and pulped pulpedtomatoes. tomatoes. Season with salt crumbs, and pepper pepper and and brown brown in in the the oven. oven. A little Httle ham ham and chopped and he added. added. parsley may be Liver balls. balls. Blanch and pound 450 g. g. (1 (l lb.) liver with rashers cif Of fat bacon. Add 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) 2 rashers crea m, I 1 chopped chopped onion, onion, 2 2 eggs (or (or the the yolks yolks only), only), and stale cream, fresh breadcrumbs until of a consistency to forrn fonn into or fresh rather large balls. Bake these in the oven. oven. rather Liver creun. cream. Mix i cup pounded poupded liver urith with I 1 egg, egg, well weIl Liuer and season with salt and pepper. Thin with milk, beaten, and place in the oven until set. pour into a bain-marie, and place Raw /iver vinaigrette. Cut raw liver into small pieces and Raw liver season with vinegar, onion, parsley and chervil. chervil. season

ANAGNOST. ANAcNosrEANAGNOSTE - Name given by the Romans to ANAGNOST. job it was to read during during meals. meals. slave whose job the slave The of the Emperor Emperor Claudius, Claudius, The custom dates from the time of although nowadays nowadays it it hardly hardJy exists, except except in sorne some nunneries althougb of the French French educational establishments run by the run by educational establishments of the Church. He was considered a privileged privileged person. His meals Church. were bis companions corn panions had left the table, were served to him after his and he was usually given a a wider choice and more copious The post was was much by the after by much sought after portions of food. food. The pupils. monasteries. and monasteries. Not so there was an anagnoste in each Not so long ago, however, there

Preparation of of anchovies (after (afler a drawing HoueI) Preparation drawing by J Houel)

ANALECT. y duty slave whose dut ANALEcTE- Name given to the slave ANALECT. ANALECTEit was to collect the remains of a a Roman meal. meal. History does not relate what happened left-overs; they were probhappened to these left-overs; ably portions, artistically artistically arranged, acceptable portions, ably neatened into acceptable and and sold in special markets. (See ARLEQUINS.)
and up and Whatever builds builds up - Whatever restores Term applied to light foods which rcstores exhausted exhausted forces. Tenu are easy quickly produce a sensation of a sensation to digest and which guickly asy to well-being. Full-bodied wines, wines, heef beef tea, meat jellies, tapioca and analeptics. all analeptics. and chocolate are aIl

ANALEPTIC. lNlr.eprIQUE ANALEPTIC. ANALEPTIQUE

ANALYSIS. term for for the the separation ANALYSIS. ANALYSE -- Scientific tenn of the The various consticonstiits component component parts. The into its the whole into tuents been scientifically scientifically analysed. food have often been tueats of food ANAPHYLAXIS. ANAPHYLAXIE ANApHyLAxE -- Word Word created created by by Professor discurious phenomenon disdefine the the curious fessor C. C. Richet Richet to to define covered poisons increase rather than increase rather him: that that certain certain poisons covered by by him: diminish their action. of an an organism to their sensitiveness of organism to the sensitiveness diminish the A minimal dose given to animal 1e a 4 non-sensitised nsn-sensitised animal dose of of poison given has no while alarming effects in effects are are produced in no serious serious effects, effects,while an animal dose of a non-fatal dose of has previously been given a animal that has the the same same poison. This It also also injeotions. It internal injections. true after after internaI This is is especially especially true explains certain ofcertain after the the ingestion of that occur occur after thq disorders disorders that explains the foods. foods. Food people, following ingestion following the the ingestion Some people, Food anaphylaxis anephylrxb -- Sorne of honey, chocolate, chocolate, milk, honey, eggs, milk, as bread, bread, eggs, foods such such as of certain certain foods etc., of the the nettlenettleoften of eruptions, often to skin skin eruptions, af subject either to etc., are subject either rash or to to asthma, or akin to to asthma, disorder akin a respiratory respiratory disorder rash kind, kind, or or to to a severe severe headaches. headaches. The and belongs belongs onp and is a a delicate delicate on~ treatmetrt is The desensitisation desensitisation treatment entirly of medicine. to the the realm realm of entirely to

stretches almost to the gills. stretches almost It is a food. The has long been appreciated as as a food. It The anchovy has and its mentioned in the the works works of of Elien Elien and and Aristotle, Aristotle, and mentioned in (q.v.), which garum (g.v.), which the used in the the making making of garum viscera viscera are used Greeks and Romans called 'the most precious sauce'. delicate flavour Anchovies have have a very very delicate flavour when when fresh, but can where they are caught. only be eaten fresh in the countries where eate,n fresh smelt. or smelt. they are are much much tastier When fried they tastier than than gudgeon or When fried Mediterranean coast from The best best anchovies anchovies come from the Mediterranean Nice to Catalonia, Catalonia, and are very large in that region. prepared at home or industrially, are used Anchovy Anchovy fillets, prepared example. in many dishes, hot and cold; in pizza, for example. offand Method of preparation. Cut the head off and clean out the of preparatior. flesh is inside. inside. Wipe the fish without pressing too hard, as the flesh very delicate. method of of cooking cooking and most most popular method Perhaps Perhaps the the best best and When they they are frying them them in in olive olive oil. oil. When fresh anchovies is is frying fresh anchovies (q.v.) fresh sardines (g.v.) large, aIl for cooking all the recipes given for cooking fresh can anchovies. to anchovies. can he be applied to found in this Anchovy is mostly prepared in brine, and is found It can also he be preserved in fonn form in aIl all the markets of Europe. It oil, oil, or or pickled. r, LA u SILSIENNE snfsruNs -- Fillet 6 ANcHoIs Ancbovies i la silsienne. silesienne. ANCHOIS Anchovies for half-an-hour half-an-hour in and leave them to to soak soak for fresh fresh anchovies anchovies and white wine. and rub rub in water, water, and roes of 2 2 salted herring in Soak the soft soft roes salted herring Soak the finely chopped chopped sieve. Add 2 teaspoons finely them a fine fine sieve. thern through through a pur6e parsley. Thin Thin down down this this pure with chopped chopped parsley. shallot shallot mixed with were soaked. soaked. the anchovies anchovies were which the with with the white wine in which arrange dish, and and arrange Spread in an an hors-d'uvre hors-d'euvre dish, the mixture mixture in Spread the the Surround the the anchovy fillets on a criss-cross criss-cross pattern. Surround anchovy fillets on it in a of boiled boiled mixed salad salad composed composed of fiJlets a border of mixed fillets with with a border of well dice and and weIl into small small dice potatoes cut into potatoes and apples, cut and tart tart apples, parsley and of and thin slices of thin slices seasoned. with sprigs sprigs of of parsley seasoned. Garnish Garnish with olive sprinkle with with olive lemon serving, sprinkle and beetroot. Just before before serving, lemon and beetroot. Just oil. oil. anchovy ANcHoIs -- Cut Cut anchovy Ancbovy cer.lApEs AUX Atx ANCHOIS Anchovy canaps. canapcs. CANAPS pieces and slices ofbread of bread on long long slices and arrange arrange them them on fillets small pieces fillets in srnall a spread with with a and been been spread which removed and which have have had had the the crusts crusts removed (see BUTIER). BUTTER). Chop Chop light d'hdtel butter (see Mattre d'hte/butter light coating coating of of Matre and (separately) the yolks and (separately) hard-boiled eggs, and and whites whites of of hard-boiledeggs, the yolks pieces parsley; arrange between the the pieces little heaps heaps of of these these between sorne arrang little some parsley; parsley. of with curly curly parsley. anchovy. Garnish Garnish with of anchovy.

(6 inches) ANCHOVY. inches) 15 cm. cm. (6 sea fish, fish, 15 ANcHoIs -- Small Small sea ANCHOVY. ANCHOIS long. ms a green colour a latpr tu turns colour which which latpr a beautiful is a beautiful green long. Its Its back back is dark the all of whict! helps helps the of which' greenish blue, almost black., black, aIl then almost blue, then dark greenish buyer to determine from It can can bedistinguiShed be distinguished from its freshness. freshness. It determine its buyeito the which projecting snout, large mouth, mouth, which snout, and and large its projecting sardine by by its the sardine

Anchovy

and spices: spices : from lrom lefllo paprika;aaniseed, tierbs and juniper berries. njseed , cayenne, left to righlright -juniper cayenne, berries, cinnamon, cinnamon, basil, basil, paprika; ajoujoli, coriander; pepper, ginger, ginger, fennel, coiander; curry, fennel, ajoujoli, curry, caraway, caraway, raz raz el el IJan/OUl, rosemary; pepper, hamour, rosemary; pepper; Phot. Larousse) sweet pepper; celery, Lorousse) frron , c1oves, sage (Hdiard. Phal. sweet celery,sa saflron, cloves,sage(Hidiard.

ANCHOVY ANCHOVY
gall-bladders and and intestines intestinesby pressingwith withthe bypressing gaU-bladders thethumb. thumb. Put Put theanchovies anchoviesin inlayers layersinto intoaasmall small barrel barrelwith withsalt saltmixed the mixed powderedbrick; with red red ochre proportionsare ochreor orpowdered brick; the with theproportions are66kg. kg. (12lb.) (1lb.) lb.)salt g.(1 powdered brick. saltto lb.)powdered to500 500g. (12 brick.The Thelayers layersof of (2| inches) anchovies should should be be66cm. cm.(2t inches) thick, anchovies layer thick,each eachlayer (f-inch)layer separated from from the next by the next byaa2-cm. 2-cm. (i-inch) layerof separated ofthe the mixed salt saltand and brick dust. brickdust. mixed When the puton thebarrel barrel is full, put When isfull, onthe lid,which which must musthave haveaa thelid, pierced in hole pierced inthe themiddle. hole middle. Pour Pour aaconcentrated concentrated solution solutionof of seasalt salt on sea on the the anchovies anchovies through through this thishole. hole.Leave Leave the thebarrel barrel in the thesun, sun, with with aabrick in brick over over the thehole holein inthe thelido lid.The Theheat heatof of producesfennentation the sun preserves the the sun produces fermentation which which preserves thefish fishand and quality, and ensures their ensures theirkeeping keeping qua!ity, andthe thebrick brickover overthe thehole hole preventsthe prevents thebrine brine from from evaporating. evaporating. When When the degree of fermentation is thedegree offermentation isconsidered consideredsufficient, sufficient, putaacork remove remove the thebrick andput brick and corkin inthe holein thehole inthe thelido lid. Anchovies preserved in Anchovies preserved in brine brine can can be usedas ashors-d'uvre hors-d'euvre beused preparations. and and for for other other preparations. p,l,uprnrrEsD'ANCHOIS RoUed Rolled ancbovies anchovies A la Ia Talleyrand. Talleyrand. PAUPIETTES D'ANcHors A LA u TALLEYRAND rx.lryRAND -- Trim Trim and and flatten flattenthe thefiUets. fillets.Stutf Stuffthem them with pur6e made with aa pure pickled tunny (tunafish) made of of pickled fish) mixed tunny (tuna mixed with with finely finely chopped chopped truffies truffies and and bound bound with with aa tablespoon tablespoonof of mayonnaise. mayonnaise. Arrange Arrange the and roUed rolled anchovies the stutfed stuffed and anchovies on onthick thickslices slices of of hard-boiled hard-boiled egg. egg. Put Put them them on on an anhors-d'uvre hors-d'euvre dish dishand andsursurv.) of round (q.v.) round them with aachiffonade chffinade (q. them with of finely lettuce, finelyshredded shredded lettuce. Decorate Decorate with with slices slices of lemon and and beetroot, of lemon beetroot, and and sprink1e sprinkle with with olive olive oil. oil. pAuprETTEs D'ANCHOIS p'.LNcHors RoUed Rolled anchovies anchovies i la la tartare. tartare. PAUPIETTES ALA r,c, TARTARE rARrARx -- Trim Trim and and flatten flatten anchovy anchovy fillets. fillets. Stuff Stuff them them with grated horseradish puree of with a a pure of grated horseradish which which has has been been kneaded kneaded with with butter. butter. Put Put the the roUed rolled anchovies anchovies on rather thick on rather thickslices slices of of cooked (cut with cooked beetroot beetroot (cut with fluted fluted cutters) cutters) and and arrange arrange them them on on an an hors-d'uvre hors-d'euvre dish. dish. Decorate Decorate with with chopped chopped hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs and capers, eggs and capers, and and sprinkle sprinkle with with olive olive oil. oil. pAuprErrEs RoUed Rolled anchovies anchovies with with bard-boiled hard-boiled eggs. eggs. PAUPIETTES D'ANCHOIS D'ANcHors AUX Aux OEUFS oEUFs DURS DURS -- Trim Trim the anchovy fillets the anchovy fillets and and shape (canned or shape them them into into rolls rolls (canned or bottled bottled anchovies anchovies may may be be used). used). Arrange Arrange them them in in an an hors-d'uvre hors-d'euvre dish, dish, decorate decorate with with chopped chopped hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs, parsley and eggs, parsley and capers, capers, and and sprinkle sprinkle with with olive olive oil. oil. Soused Soused anchovies. anchovies ANCHOIS ANcHors MARINS umrNfs -- Clean g. (1 (l lb.) Clean 450 450 g. lb.) fresh fresh anchovies. anchovies. Lay Lay them plate, sprinkle them on on a a plate, sprinkle with with salt, salt, and and leave leave to to souse souse for for 2 2 hours. hours. Dry just Dry the the anchovies, anchovies, and and fry fry them them in in smoking smoking hot hot oil oil just long enough enough to to stiffen stiffen them. put them Drain, put them. Drain, them into into an an earthenearthenware dish, dish, and and cover with a prepared in cover with a marinade marinade prepared in the the followfollowing manner: manner: Heat the oil in which the anchovies were cooked (adding the oil in which the anchovies were cooked (adding 5 5 or or 6 6 tablespoons tablespoons of of fresh fresh oil). Fry a oil). Fry a finely finely sliced sliced mediummedium-

Anchovy canaps canap6s Anchovy

Anchory fillets. fillets. FILETS FTLETs D'ANCHOIS D'ANcHors -- Desalt Desalt the anchovies Ancbovy the anchovies (that is, and trim trim them them (that is, remove remove bones and skin). and bones and skin). Wipe Wipe these these fillets with with a a c10th and cut into 20r cloth and cut into 2 or 3 lengthwise. fiUets 3 strips strips lengthwise. (Canned fillets fillets may may be be used.) used.) (Canned Arrange the the fiUet fillet strips strips decoratively Arrange decoratively in in an an hors-d'uvre hors-d'euvre dish. Garnish Garnish with yolks and with yolks and whites dish. whites of of hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs, eggs, chopped separately, separately, and and chopped parsley and chopped parsley chopped and capers. capers. the fiUets fillets with with a a few Sprinkle the few tablespoons tablespoons of of olive olive oil. oil. The arrangement of porcelain, cut-glass anchovy fiUets The of anchovy fillets in in porcelain, cut-glass or silver silver hors-d'uvre hors-d'euvre dishes or dishes lends lends itself itself to to aa variety variety of of artistic expression. expression. Slices quartered lettuce artistic Slices of of lemon, lemon, quartered lettuce hearts, sm small hearts, ail gherkins cut cut in in various various shapes, shapes, beetroot betroot cut cut in in rounds or crescents, crescents, etc., can also also be etc., can be added added to ingredients to the the ingredients mentioned above. Anchory fillets Ancbovy filleb I la la sudoise. suedoise. FILETS FTLETS D'ANCHOIS o'^LNcnors A LA r.L suEoolsr SUDOISE prepared in anchovy fillets, fillets, prepared in the the usual usual - Arrange the anchovy manner, on manner, on a foundation of a foundation of salad salad composed composed of of tart tart red red apples and cooked cooked beetroot, cut in small small dice, dice, seasoned seasoned with with oil, vinegar, salt and and pepper. Surround Surround tbis garnish of this salad salad with with a a garnish little bunches of little bunches of of parsley, yolks and parsie y, yolks and wbites whites of hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs, eggs, and and cooked cooked truffies, ail all chopped separately separately and and arranged arranged in in individual individual groups. Sprinkle Sprinkle with a a few few tablespoons tablespoons of oil. oil. Anchovy toast. Anchovy toast. TOASTS rolsrs AUX Aux ANCHOIS ANcHors -- Garnish Garnish lightly lightly pieces of bread with toasted pieces with fillets fillets of of anchovies. anchovies. Sprinkle Sprinkle them with breadcrumbs which have been fried in in butter, and and brown in the oven oven for a a few minutes. Fried anchovies. ANCHOIS .cxcHols FRITS FRrrs and prepare fresh Clean and fresh - Clean anchovies. Dip them in anchovies. in milk, milk, drain drain them, them, and and roll roll them them in in flour, keeping the fish fish separate as as far far as as possible. Fry them in irr very very hot fat. fat. Drain, Drain, and and sprinkle sprinkle with with fine, fine, dry salt. Pile them on a a heated plate and and garnish with fried fried parsley and lemon quarters. Medallions of ancbovy Medalliore anchovy I la nioise. MEDATLLoNS D'ANCHOIS D'ANcHors nigoise. MEDAILLONS u LA utgotsn NIOISE - Spread A Spread slices slices of crustless crustless bread bread with with butter butter that has been mixed with thick tomato pure. pur6e. Put a a slice slice of of hard-boiled egg on each slice, hard-boiled and a roUed rolled fiUet fillet of anchovy slice, and egg. on the egg. these medallions with stoned Garnish these stoned black black olives, olives, and and a little !ittle chopped parsley. Arrange sprinkle with a Arrange them them on on a a paper doyley, and add a further garnish of parsley. of curly curly parsley. poRTUcArsE Portuguese anchovy ancbovy fillgts. fiUets. FILETS Portuguese FTLETS D'ANCHOIS D'ANcHors PORTUGAISE Prepare desalted desalted anchovies anchovies in fillets, fiUets, and cut Prepare cut them into thin them into thin be used. used. Canned fillets may may be strips. Canned fondue of of tomatoes (see Prepare a a fondue (see TOMATO), TOMATO), cooked cooked it in in anhors-d'euvre an hors-d'uvre dish. lightly in oil, and and put it lightly dish. Arrange Arrange the the pattern on on top top of of the fondue. Decorate fillets in a a criss-cross criss-cross pattern fillets the fondue. Decorate capers, chopped chopped parsley, slices slices of of peeled peeled lemon, with capers, lemon, and and of olive olive oil. oil. sprinkle with with a a few tablespoons tablespoons of sprinkle Preserved anchovies. ancbovies. coNsERvE CONSERVE D'ANcHors D'ANCHOIS - This must be be heserved This must - the made with with freshly freshly caught caught anchovies. anchovies. Remove Remove the heads, the made heads, the

Medallions la nioise Medallions of of anchovy anchovy d la nigoise

25 25
Barquettes andtartlets and tartlets with witb fruit fruit fillings fillings (Po (Potel and Chabot. Chabot. phot. Phot. Larousse) Larousse) Barquettes tel and

ANCHOYADE
a sliced sliced carrot in in the the oil. oil. Add Add 3 unpeeled sized onion and a unpeeled (6 tablespoons, garlic, 1 cloves of garlic, I dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, scant ! cloyes l cup) vinegar, j cup) water. Season I dl. (6 tablespoons, scant t and 1 Season with fine and j bay leaf parsley, 1of thyme, 3 sprigs parsley, leaf and salt, and add a sprig of peppercorns. crushed 1teaspoon cru shed peppercorns. I teaspoon for 10 l0 minutes. Pour Ppur the mixture, mixture, still boiling, on the Boil for anchovies. Leave to souse souse for 24 hours. anchovies. garnished in an an hors-d'uvre hors-d'euvre dish dish garni slices of Serve in shed with Serve with slices lemon.
(Provengal eookery) preparation based ANCHOYADE cookery) ANCHOY ADE (Provenal - A preparation paste. Pound on anchovy paste. the anchovies anchovies in a mortar, on Pound the in a mortar, add paste on and a a few olive oil oil and few drops drops of vinegar. Spread olive Spread this this paste home-made bread, and sprinkle with finely chopped of home-made slices of chopped hard-boiled hard-boiled egg, onion, chopped and a a little egg, and onion, little olive olive oil. Brown in the oyen. Brown oven. I la nioise nigoise Anchoyade Anchoyade - Add chopped shallot and parsley to anchovy paste, moisten with olive oil, and spread to paste, moisten oil, and spread this mixture on slices of toast, or bread fried fried in oil until until golden brown. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with breadcrumbs mixed mixed with with chopped brown. garlic, and and garlic, with olive oil. and then then with parsley and oil. Brown in in the oyen. oven.

(A V) preparations treated ANCIENNE L') to preparations ANCIENNE ( Name given to - Name of the old school. school. These These dishes dishes were according to the precepts of garnishes, and braised braised beef slowly simmered usually mixed garnishes, simmered characteristic type is Rump of of beef for a long time. The most characteristic d l'ancienne I'ancienne (see BEEF). BEEF). applies to dishes such as pastry shells baked The term also applies baked blind (empty) and and filled with ragots ragofrts of cocks' combs combs and blind quenelles of kidneys, or or quenelles of truffles truffies and and mushrooms. mushrooms. (For kidneys, d l'ancienne I'ancienne mode see CHICKEN, and for Escalopes Chicken VARIETY l'ancienne see OFF OFFAL of calves' sweetbreads of AL or V ARIETY d l'ancienne MEATS.) d l'ancienne l'ancienne also applies blanquettes (q.v.) and applies to blanquettes The term of lamb, veal and chicken treated treated in a special fricasses (q.v.) oflamb, fricassies way.
(A V) preparations ANDALOUSE ( L) Name different prepara ANDALOUSE ame given to different tions -N mainly by by tomatoes, tomatoes, sweet sweet pimentos characterised mainly pimentos and sometimes chipolata sausages, aubergines chipolata sausages, aubergines and and rice rice pilaf. sometimes (See EGGS, d l'andalouse; I'andalouse; CHICKEN, CHICKEN, Chicken EGGS, Eggs Eggs (See Chickm d I'andalouse.) l'andalouse.)

(Chitterlings) prearc preANDOUILLETTES (Chitterlings) - Andouillettes are pared like andouilles, andouilles, but smaller intestines are used. There pared are many varieties, differing for the most part in the spices (old are made made ri la ficelle ficelle (old used composition. Sorne used in in their composition. Some are method); the tripe is cut lengthwise into strips. Others are stuffed with diced or minced tripe. gastronomic societies, comexclusive of gastronomic One of the most exclusive prising is the only five five branches, branches, is the Association amicale des prising only andouillettes (A.A.A.A.A.) amateurs amateurs d'authentiques d'authentiques andouillettes lovers of authentic andouillettes'. diploma from 'Society of loyers of authentic andouillettes'. A diploma after. Its members have opporthis society is much sought after. members have opporthis length the comparative merits of the comparative merits tunities to to discuss at length tunities Troyes, Arras, Arras, Cambrai, Fleurie in andouillettes of Troyes, Paris, Fleurie Cambrai, Paris, Beaujolais, Aubagne, Lourdes, etc. poached and Andouillettes,like andouilles, are Andouillettes, like andouilles, are sold ready poached All that needs to be done is to slit the skin and and grill cooled. AlI them gently. andouillettes. It is a mistake to serve fried vegetables with andouillettes. A.A.A.A.A. has experimented with creamed potatoes, The A.A.A.A.A. lentils, red fried onions, raw red red cabbage, creamed creamed celery, celery, lentils, fried au gratin, stewed apples, etc., but total beans, vegetables au apples, etc., gratin, stewed beans, agreement has been reached on only one point: andouillettes agreement a good strong mustard. require a Andouillettes I la la lyonnaise lyonnaise Slit the and AndouiUettes the andouillettes and - Slit cook them in lard or butter. When two-thirds done, add a previously lightly cooked in finely chopped onion previously in lard lard or finely butter. Simmer until done. When ready to serve, add a tableand a ofchopped ofvinegar. a tablespoon of spoon of chopped parsley and vinegar.

(Vlue grass) plant of the genus of plant ANDROPOGON ANDROPOGON (Vlue A genus -A are known, known, one species of it are Gramineae Numerous species Grarnineae family. Numerous of which is the sugar cane. Several of the plants are used for infusion. like tea. infusion,

ANDOTIILLE A large large pig filled with strips strips of ANDOUILLE pig intestine filled -A chitterlings and and stomach stomach of the same animal. These popular chitterlings (See are generally served cold, cold, as as an hors-d'uvre. hors-d'euvre. (See sausages are PORK.) Large smoked of Vire Vire and as those andouilles such smoked andouilles such as those of L~lfge are sold sold ready-cooked, readv-cooked. and Gu6m6n6 are and should should be Gumn be served thinly sliced.

(Historig gastronomie gastronomic and culinary) ANECDOTES (Historie, and eulinary) ANECDOTES advised by was advised by his his physician that A convalescent Pompey was his recovery recovery would would be hastened by following a bis be hastened a diet diet of by following thrushes. When his servants servants returned with the news that it thrushes. summer except at of summer was impossible to find any in the height of Lucullus, the invalid turned to his physician and of Lucullus, the home of 'What's this? remarked, 'What's survival depend remarked, this? Does Pompey's survival (Les Classiques de Lucullus is a a glutton?' (Les upon the fact that Lucullus la table) la
de Duras, Duras, seeing Descartes Descartes tucking into a a good Le duc duc de jestingly, 'What 'What ho! ho ! Do Do philoday, remarked jestingly, meal meal one one day, a use for such delicacies?' delicacies?' sophers have a you imagine 'Do you imagine that 'Why not?' retorted Descartes. Descartes. 'Do 'Why not?' retorted simply Nature produced the good things of the earth sim Nature ply for the ignorant?' (Panckoucke)
well known that Mme. de Maintenon was extremely It is weIl poor evening wbile of her first marriage. One evening while she po or at the time of was entertaining no roast entertaining sorne some people at at supper and and had had no was lackey, a witt witty some spirit, sidled up to to offer, her lackey, y fellow of of sorne his mistress, mistress, who who was was entertaining entertaining the the company with with her his 'Madame, witty charmingly y conversation, charmingly witt conversation, and and whispered, 'Madame, you have more story, story, and and no no one will will notice notice that have no that you one more Beaumelle) roast for supper.' (La Beaumelle)

The food was very very bad bad at food was at Mme. Mme. d'Aligre's d'Aligre's hou house se and The 'Really,' remarked M. 'if much discussed. discussed. 'RealIy,' M. de de Lauraguais, 'if much neighbour's, one did not eat one's own bread as weIl well as one's neighbour's, here one wou Id die of hunger.' (Grimm, Correspondance) would Correspondance) Admiral Russel invited the officers and and crews of One day AdmiraI his fteet fleet to He had had a a marble marble basin bis to drink punch with him. He for the the middle the occasion in specially constructed for middle of a in the magnificent which he he ordered to be poured six magnificent garden, into which (brandy), six hundred bottles of hundred bottles of Cognac (brandy), rum, twelve twelve hundred bottles of Malaga, four tons of boiling

Vire and and Gumn andouille (Larousse) Vire Gu6m6n6 andoujlle

26

ANECDOTES
water, water, the Ihe juice of two two thousand six six hundred hundred lemons, six hundred pounds of the best Lisbon sugar and two hundred grated grated nutmegs. nutmegs. A young young man man representing representing Hebe Hebe rowed round round the Ihe basin basin in a small small mahogany mahogany boat, boat, filling filling the Ihe cups of more more than six thousand thousand drinkers drinkers seated seated in an an amphitheatre amphitheatre of benches benches round the basin. (Ivrogniana)
Heliogabalus rus parasites parasites to meals meals of Heliogabalus used used to entertain entertain his
grass, and was wont wonl to cover coyer his rus table with embroidered or all the dishes tapestry tablecloths upon upou which wruch were worked worked ail

uninspired uninspired for a gastronome of his calibre: 'The difference between between her and la Brinvilliers Brinvilliers is in their intention.' intention.' By skillful skillful grafting a gardener gardener from Montreuil Montreuil succeeded suceded in propagating propagating a most exquisite variety variety of of peach. peach. He desired desired to 10 present the fruit fruit in homage to 10 Louis XVIII, XVIII, but before before exposing himself to to a a test test upon which which his rus reputation so 50 The latter, much much depended, depended, he he decided decided to to visit visit M.P.R. M.P.R. The stretched stretched out ouI in in his his armchair, armchair, legs legs crossed crossed and and hands hands clasped, c1asped, prepared himself himself in gentle gen tle contemplation con templation to deliver him. The the important important yerdict verdict that was was expected of ofrum. The gardener silver knife. requested requested a a plate piate with a a silver knife. He cut cut the the precious peach in quarters, quarters. speared one of of these with the point of of the saying, knife knife and and gravely pushed pushed it it into into M.P.R.'s mouth, saying, 'Taste the juice!' juice!' His eyes eyes closed, closed, M.P.R. M .P. R. tasted tasled the juice juice without uttering a a word. The The gardener observdd observed him, him, his of two or three eyes clouded with anxiety. After an interval of minutes, of his minutes. those of ms mentor mentor opened. opened. 'Good, very good, good, my had time friend,' friend,' were were the the only only words words he he had time to to utter. utter. Imquarter was advanced like the first, mediately, the second quarter the second was advanced first. confident tone, and more confident tone, comand the the gardener, in a a firmer, more same manded, 'Tagte 'Taste the flesh'. There followod followed the sa me silence, gourmet. This on the part of the learned gourmet. the same gravity gravit y on time the movement of his mouth was more pronounced, pronounced, for for nodded rus his head. 'Ah, 'Ah, very good, he was chewing. At last he uodded wa~ chewing. of very good!' You You are are going to think think that the superiority of judged and that no more remained to be the peach had been beenjudged 'Savour slioe followed said? Not at all! The third tmrd slice followed in its ils turn. tum. 'Savouf the gardener. The aroma was found the aroma!' aroma!'continued continued the found and the of the juice to worthy of to be be worthy juice and the flesh. ftesh. Whereupon Whereupon the gardener drew rumself himself up to his gardener rus full height to present present the last quarter. His His face, flushed, glowed quarter. face, slightly flushed, g10wed with with pride and satisfaction: 'Taste the whole!' His triumph was complete. satisfaction: him moist-eyed and and towards him and carne came towards M.P.R. M.P. R. tasted tasled it, it, and friend, it it is hand effusively. 'Ah, my friend, his hand smiling. He grasped his perfect! 1 compliments.' I offer you my heartfelt compliments.' perfeet! night at one of of a number of elegant Fontenelle dined dined each mght houses, a fact that caused Piron to to remark remark upon upon seeing the hou ses, a fact Ihat one day day achis window doyen of of the the AcadCmie Acadmie passing passing his window one doyen I have seen retinue: 'That is the first time 1 his retinue: companied by rus out!' intending to dine out!' M. de Fontenelle leave home without intending battle, Artaxerxes, king of Persia, having been defeated in baille, during the was constrained to eat dried figs and barley bread durillg ye gods,' he 'O ye fare excellent. excellent. '0 retreat. He found round this this rough fare I have denied myself myself up to now by 'what pleasure 1 exclaimed, 'what tastes!' over-fastidious in my tas being over-fastidious tes !' Montmaurwas noisycompany daywith eating one day Montmaur was eating with a large, noisy company gentlemen!' he singing friends. friends. 'Hey there, there, gelltlemen!' and singillg of coughing and pray, eise called out, 'A lillie little silence, else how how are are we we to to know out, 'A silence, pray, called (Menagiana) what we are eating.' (Menagiana) Marshal Albert immediately immediately felt ill ifwild if wild boar or suc sucking king pig appeared on the the table. Erasmus had had only only to fish to to sme]] smell fish to become feverish. Erasmus placed apples llear anyone placed near Duchesne, Duchesne, secretary secretary to When anyone Frangois 1, I, blood blood poured from from his his nose. Franois

appeared at that ought to to have have appeared al the the different courses. courses. At other other times times he tantalised their Iheir gaze gaze with paintings paintings of of various various them everything everytrung they could wish foods, seemingly offering thern for, yet leaving them ravenously hungry. hungry. (Lampride)

M. le pr6sident prsident B. gave a regular weekly dinner; splendid wines, cuisine worthy of an archbishop, archbishop, and wit table, fine wines, worthy of a member of l'AcadCmie l'Acadmie frangaise'of franaise 'of the fortyfort yfirst chair'. An old and faithful servant charge of servant was put in charge the cellar, to offer the various cellar, and was was also also commissioned 1O wines to the guests. He acquitted himself himself of this task with a dignified air, though intonations discreet and dignified intonations of of an amorous tabby-cat crept into his voice each each time he he announced the Ihe tabby-cat wines - the na me and and the patent of nobility of these great wines name the patent glory of France. He announced with particular fervour a glory certain cerlain vin vin de fond. fond. When he he said he gave the said 'Vin de fond' he his mouth, so impression that was roHing rolling it around that he he was around in in his gounnets allowed his that even the least enthusiastic of the gourmets that rus fiIled. However, this glass to be filled. trus wine, wine, so brilliantly brilliantly presented, presented, gave little pleasure to Ihose il. As a rule Ihey little pleasure those who tasted it. they pulled faces while drinking vdn wry faces vin de fond. fond. r,s this 'Tell me, what is this vrn vin de fond?' Mme. la pr6sidente prsidente B. 'Is there it in asked her her sommelier sommelier one one day. day. 'Is there much asked much of it in the cellar?' cellarT an air the servant with with an air of of mystery, 'Madame,' replied replied the 'there is enough enough to last for ever.' still looking perplexed. 'Ah!' sa id Mme. de B., stilllooking 'Ah!'said 'I make it it 'It is quite simple,' is quite sommelier. '! continued the 'It the sommelier. simple,' continued myself the boules. bottles. It is quite good enough rnyself from the dregs of Ihe prepared to drink without knowing for people who are prepared knowing what difference between they are drinking and who cannot tell the difference Bordeaux-Lafite.' a Clos-Vougeot and a Bordeaux-Lafite.' vm defonddisappeared the vin de fond disappeared from From that day onwards the (J. Richard, the table ofM.Ie of M. le pr6sident Richard,,l'Epoque) prsident B. (1. l'poque)

history was The man with the the most voracious appetite in hislory
successor of Alexander Severus the Emperor Maximin, Maxiinin, successor of Alexander the Emperor

(Marcus AureIius). Aurelius). He went to to the the extent of consuming (at and an an amphora of an ordinary meal) meal) fort forty meat and Y pounds of meal an aocording to sorne, twenty-eight French wine; that is is to say. say, according some, twenty-eight (EncyclopCdie mthomCthootlers, thirty-six. (Encyclopdie pints; according to to others, dique) 0'93 of a a litre. litre. Note. A pint in in Paris Paris was 093 NOIe. serving honour of serving had the the honour landlord of a a village inn had The The landlord that he he broke broke his an occasion occasion thal II with with an an egg egg on on an rus George George II journey there, guinea in in payment. joumey there, and and asked one guinea His His Majesty smilingly smilingly remarked: 'It seems scaroe hereabouts.' 'It seems eggs are are rather scarce the the eggs the innkeeper, 'not 'not the replied the 'Oh no, sire,' sire,' replied 'Oh no, - the kings.'

happy and A mosl and factious and Oh, happy and un unhappy cooks! A most faclious Oh, happy cooks! detestable race, according to to Hegesender. detestable gave the freedom The Athenian Athenian government gave freedom of the city city 10 to The a certain certain Cherips invented an excellent Cherips because his father had nvented a ragofit. trufred ragot. truffled a town town to to with a a dinner, presented a Anthony, weil well pleased wilh his his cook. Mme. Henaultmade President Henault President made the following remark about Mme. and was far far too too unrefined and du du Deffand's cook cook whose cuisine was
27

to Furetire, Furetidre, in in the the chapter devoted devoted to to large According to appetites: appeliles: 'I have seen eat a a loin of veal, a capon, a brace of seen one man eat capon, a of '1 woodcock and and a a mountain mountain of bread help. bread without any any help. 'The ballet so Aglais, who who lived lived two two hundred hundred or or so ballet dancer dancer Aglas, 'The supper she she would would Christ, was was so greedy that for supper years before Christ, and a dozen bread, and meat, and and a doze'n loaves of bread, ten pounds of meat, eat ten eat six pints of wille. wine. the equivalent equivalent of six drink the five day ate ate for lunch five Claudius Albinus one day 'The Emperor Claudius peaches, ten a hundred melons, a hundred peaches, ten melons, hundred figs, figs, a a hundred hundred gapes. forty-eight oysters oysters and and many grapes. beccaficchi, forty-eight

ANETHOLE
'The Crotonia ate 'The athlete Milon Milon of ofCrotonia ate a whole ox after having carried it for a considerable length of of time on his shoulders. shoulders. 'The 'The Emperor Maximin became became so so fat fat through through overeating that he he used his wife's wife's bracelets bracelets as rings. 'An Phagon ate, 'An actor actor by by the the name name of ofPhagon ale, in the presence of of the Emperor Emperor Aurelius: Aurelius: a wild boar, a a sheep, a hundred round loaves loaves of of bread, bread, and a sucking pig. He washed washed it down down with twenty-four twenty-four measures of of wine.' (Les Classiques de la table) table) Louis Louis XIII xm - He was excellent excellent at at preparing eggs and and did so in of ways: ways: perdus, perdus, poached in black butter, hardhardin a variety variety of boiled up with bacon bacon (one of of his his inventions), inventions), boiled and chopped up etc. etc. He also also larded larded loins loins of of beef magnificently, magnificently, using using his his own own vermeil vermeil larding larding needle. needle. Mme. Mme. de Maintenon Maintenon - She She was was adept at preparing preparing dainty dishes dishes for for the the king king (still (still of of good appetite despite despite his his advancing ing years). years). Her Her particular particular speciality speciality was was dressed dressed cutlets seasoned seasoned with with parsley, parsley, which whir,h she she wrapped wrapped in buttered buttered paper paper and and grilled. In other other words words cutlets en en papillote. Mne. de Conti- She preparing loin She invented invented the the method of ofpreparing
of of mutton mutton that that bears bears her her name, name, while while Mme. Mme. de de S6vign6 Svign had had a talent talent for for preparing preparing waffies. waffies. I.oub Louis XVXV - He He loved loved to to make make his his own own coffee, coffee, and and invented invented an an omelette omelette of of asparagus tips tips for Mme. Mme. du du Barry. Louis Louis XYI XVI - Like his grandfather, grandfather, Louis Louis XlV, he had had the the sort sort of of appetite appetite nothing nothing could cou Id upset; upset; the the very very evening evening before his trial before the the opening opening of ofhis trial he he ate ate six six cutlets, cutlets, a a chicken and and several several eggs. Balzac Balzac (Honor6 de) - Even Even if if he he did did not not always eat his his fill fil! (because (because he he happened to to be be working) working) Balzac Balzac had by by nature nature an an astonishing astonishing capacity capacity of of absorption. And And the the menu menu he he orderd ordered for for himself himself alone alone at at Very's Very's one one day day was was not not excepexceptional: tional: Hors-d'euvre Hors-d'uvre Eight Eight dozen dozen Ostend Ostend oysters oysters Twelve Twelve pri-sali pr-sal mutton mutton cutlets cutlets au au naturel naturel A A duckling duckling with with turnips turnips A brace of roast partridges A Normandy sole Sweet Sweet Fruit Fruit Coffee Coffee and and liqueurs liqueurs

'Oh 'all I 'Oh Madame,' Madame,' said said Renan, 'ail 1 wanted wanted was a second was a helping of peas.' ANETHOLE. .lxErnor ANTHOL - Compound of a hydro-carbon a hydro-carbon (resembling oil oil of turpentine) and a a certain certain crystallisable crystallisable substance substance possessing a strong aniselike anise-like odour. odour. The essences of of anise, fennel, Chinese anise and and tarragon tarragon are mainly formed of of anethole. It is used for flavouring sweets, sweet dishes, and various liqueurs. liqueurs. ANETHUM. ANETHlJM. ANETTI ANETH - See FENNEL. ANGEL CAKE - See CAKE.
ANGEL ANGEL FISH FISH (Squatina squatina). squatina). ANGE DE DE uEn MER - A kind of dog dog fish, fish, with with a a large, flattened flattened body; body; the the pectoral pectoral and ventral fins fins seeming to to continue continue the lateral lateralline of the body in ventral line of all aU its thickness. The tail is big big and rounded, rounded, while while the back is covered with a rough brownish-green skin marked with small whitish whitish and and grey spots. The belly is is whitish. Angel Angel fish is is the the intermediary type type between between the family family of of sharks sharks and that of of ray ray and skates. On the French coasts, where it fishermen call this fish angelot or angel. ange/. abounds, the fishermen The flesh of of the the angel fish is quite quite delicate and and recalls recalls that Ali methods of preparation given for the latter of the ray. All are applicable applicable to angel fish.

A A FEW FEW GOURMANDS. GOURMANDS. euEleurs QUELQUES cotrnrra,qwDs GOURMANDS-

Angelica Angelica

"0fi-:Tff:f[To*'

Whereupon Whereupon he he slept slept for for two two hours, hours, drank drank some sorne coffee coffee and and worked worked the the whole whole night night until until seven seven or or eight eight o'clock o'clock in in the the morning. morning. Victor Victor Hugo Hugo - The The great great poet poet was was areal a real guzzler, guzzler, especially especially late not only only ate ate a a cutlet, cutlet, but but the the bone bone as as well, well, Jate in in life: life: he he not rn,nrhlrlO" it it loudly loudly between between his his powerful powerful jaws. Sometimes, Sometimes, crunching to amuse his grandchildren grandchildren after after a a meal, meal, he would would have have all ail to amuse the brought in: in: ragofit, ragot, fish, fish, vegetables vegetables and and dessert. dessert. the left-overs left-overs brought These put with with seasoning seasoning into into a a large large salad salad bowl bowl and and ate, ate, These he he put sharing sharing the the dish dish with with the the enraptured enraptured children. children. He He called called the the concoction 'daubs'. 'daubs'. concoction LamartineLamartine - A A thin thin man man who who only liked ice cream. Stendhal -A A fat fat man man with with a a penchant for for macaroni. macaroni. Stendhal Theophite Thophile Gautier Gautier -A A delicate delicate palate palate who who did did not not allow allow himself himself to to be he deceived. deceived. It It was was he he who, who, at at the the Russian Russian court, court, observed to to the the chef chefthat thc:.t his his almond almond gflteau gteau (which (which everyone p\lf'n"... np observed else adored) adored) was was nothing nothing more more nor nor less less than than pounded else macaroons. macaroons. 7frlrZola - He He had had a a fondness fondness for for shellfish shellfish although although he he called called them 'filth'. thern'filth'. Rman Renan - Invited Invited one one day day to to a a house house where where the the hostess hostess desired desired that that each each guest guest in in turn turn should should contribute contribute to to the the Renan persistently persistently tried tried to to intervene intervene during during conversation, Renan conversation, the course course of of the the meal. meal. At At last last the the mistress mistress of of the the house house the turned to to him him and and said, said, 'Now, 'Now, Master Master Renan, Renan, it's it's your your turn.' turn.' turned

under the common name name of angelica, angelic herb. It is is a under

ANGELICA. ANGELrer.rE ANGLIQUE - A A genus of of plants plants of of the the family ANGELICA. of which which the the prototype is i~ generally known known Umbelliferae, of

large appearlarge perennial perennial herb herb usually usuaJly grown grown as a a biennial. biennial. In In appearance it it closely closely resembles resembles cow cow parsley. parsley. ance Angelico archangelica grows grows wild wild in in the the Alps. Alps, in in the the Angelica and in in northern northern Europe. Europe. It It has has long long been been valued valued as as Pyrenees and Pyrenees a stomachic, stomachic, carminative carminative and and anti-spasmodic anti-spasmodic stimulant. stimulant. Toa day it it is is cultivated cultivated mostly mostly for for the the sake sake of ofits roots and and stalks. stalks. day its roots The fresh fresh stalks, stalks, candied candied in sugar, sugar, make make a a pleasant pleasant prepreThe Niort angelica, angelica, or or Nevers Nevers angelica, angelica, or or ChdteauChteauserve called called Niort serve briand angelica. It It is is used used by by confectioners confectioners and and wine wine and and briand spirit merchants. me:rcl1arlts. spirit The roots, roots, which which come come principally principally from from Bohemia, Bohemia, are are The wrinkled, grey outside outside and and white white inside. inside. They They are are deceptive deceptive wrinkled, to the the palate: sweet sweet at at first, first, producing producing an an acrid acrid and and bitter bitter to after-taste. after-taste. roots also also contain contain a a volatile volatile oil, oil, angelicine, angelicine, angelic angelic The roots The acid, tannin, tannin, malic malic acid, acid, pectic pectic acid, acid, the the malates, malates, etc. etc. They They acid, very strong strong digestive digestive and and anti-dyspeptic an'ti-clvsnelltic properties. nr()nprtll'<: possess very is for for this this reason reason that that they they are are used used in the production of It is meliss cordials cordials and and other other liqueurs liqueurs such su ch as as chartreuse, chartreuse, meliss gin and and English English bitters. bitters. vespetro, gin liqueur. LreuEUR LIQUEUR lNo6r.reue ANGLIQUE - Put Put I 1 kg. kg. (2* (2! lb.) lb.) Angelica liqueur. cut into into small small pieces, and and I 1 litre litre (lf, (11 pints, pints, stalks, cut angelica stalks, generous quart) quart) brandy, brandy, in in a a bottling jar. jar. Macerate Macerate for for a a generous

28 28

ANGLET
month. monlh. See that the jar jar is 1S hermetically hermetically sealed. Expose it il to the sun whenever whenever possible. Add from 600 to 10 800 g. (1* to l* lb.) lump lump sugar sugar dissolved in ln very little !iUle water. waler. Press the whole whole through a silk or fine muslin sieve. Leave to ta stand for a few hours. hours, then lhen filter filler the liqueur through soft paper. Decant into ioto bottles, boules, cork and seal. Candied angclica. lNcfrrqun ANGLIQUE coNFrrE CONfJTE - Cut the angelica angelica Candied angelica. stalks 15- to ta 20-cm. 20-cm. (6- to 10 8-inch) pieces pieces and soak in cold stalks into nto 15water. Plunge them into a pan of boiling water water until unti) the pulp begins to give slightly when pressed with the fingers. fingers, Cool all under a cold tap, tap. drain and peel, taking care to remove aIl stringy parIs. stringy parts. fot 24 Macerate I cup sugar sugar to la I 1 cup water for Macerale in a syrup of 1 hours. c (215'F.) Drain. 102'C. (215 L 102C. F.) and pour it il over Drain, Boil the syrup to of angelica. angelca. the pieces of Repeat this operation operation three days running. On the fourth day cook the syrup to small. pearl, i.e. 10 small i.e. 105"C. (221"F.). Put angelica into this syrup and bring it to bring il la the boil several times. lhis syrup Remove the pan from the fire and let it stand. stand. Drain the on a a sieve. sieve. Lay the pieces of angelica angelica on Lay them them on a them to dry in a marble sprinkle with fine sugar and put marb!e slab, sprinkle pullhem very slow aven. oven. Store in tins.
pepper pepper before before being being put put under under a grill. grill. It lt must be be cooked on a low flame. t'lame. When grilled. such such as as When fish fish with a delicate flesh fiesh is being grilled, whiting, fresh fresh sliced cod, etc., elc., it should be be dusted dusted with flour t'lour and and sprinkled sprinkled with with melted melted butter butter or or oil oil before before putting pUlling it it under the the grill. grill. Grilled Gri/led fish fish d I'anglaise l'anglaise is is served served simply siroply with with melted butter or Maite Matre d'hitel d'htel butter bUller (see (see BUTTER) BUTTER) and (optionally) potatoes, boiJed. pota loes, either steamed or boiled.

AI\GLAISE (Custard) - Variously flavoured custard made of yolks of egg, sugar and milk (see CREAM, Custard cream).
ANGLER ANGLER (U.S. (V.S. AI\GLERFISID. ANGLERFISH). LorrE LOTTE DE MER, VIER, BAUDRoIE BAUDROThis fish is extremely ugly. Its foreparts are are very very broad while Its head, which is its hind-quarters hind-quaners are exceedingly narrow. ILs enormous, is very flat fiat and spiky. Along its ilS back it has three very mobile mobile filaments. The first and largest largest ends in a sort of all can lash a spearhead, flail, shaped like spearhead, which flail, shaped like a wh.ich can !ash out out in in ail as bait to directions. Il is believed that thal the angler uses this trus as directions. It attract a ttract its i ts prey. The skin skjn of or the angler is olive brown along the back and grey on the belly. It is flabby entirely without t'labby and sticky stick y and entirely similar to the scales. covered with bony bouy filaments similar scales. Instead Instead it il is covercd spikes on its head. bouillabaisse The mainly as an ingredient ingredient of of bouillabaisse The angler angler is used mainly (q.v.) it can be cooked in the same (q. v.) and other fish nsh soups, but bu! il way as cod or other large sea fish. should be In manner it it is is prepared, prepared, angler should ln whatever whatever manner since it is a a somewhat tasteless.fish. rather highly seasoned, sinec tasteLessfish. not widely In the whi1e plentiful, plentful, is s not the U.S.A. the the anglerfish, while steaks can can be in the marketed. be used used in marketed. White White fish tsh fillets flilets or or steaks following recipes. DE MER A L'ANGLAISE t'lNcr.ltse - FiJlet Fillet Angler LorrE DE I'anglaise. l'anglaise. LOTTE MER Angler i Flatten them angler, and trim trm the fillets. fl1!ets. Flatten a medium-sized raw angler, and season with salt and pepper. Dip them in egg and breadServe crumbs and fry Ihem them in butter, browning on both sides. Serve crumbs dhdtel buller a long dish, covering the on a butter on the fish with Maitre d'h/el (see BUTTER). Boild algler with various sauces. LorrE Boiled LonE DE MER BoITILLIE BOUlLLlEa courlcourtSkin the angler and cut it into thick steaks. Cook in a (q.v.) (see as for Boiled with any bouillon as Boi/ed cod (see COD). Serve with sauce suitable for boiled fish. sauce nsh. Lorrn DE MER -- Proceed as pflt6. rAre FRorD DE LOTTE r T FROID Cold angler pt. for Cold eel pie (see EEL). for nrsrs DE DE LOTTE Lorrr DE in white winc. wine. FILETS Fillets of angler braised in Trim and the fillets. AU vrN and flatten Mnn BRAISS sRArs6s AU MER VIN BLANC BLANC - Trm fiatten the pepper. Lay them in a buttered baking baking Season with salt and pepper. (see FUMET) with with white and mosten moisten with with Fish tin and Fsh fumet fumel (sec tin wine. Cook in a a moderate oven. a long long dish dish wth with a a white white wine Drain the fillets. Serve on on a the flUets. Drain (see SAUCE, White SAUCE, White made from from [he cooking stock stock (see sauce made the cooking sauce
sauces).
DE MER fRITE FRIrE fillets of angler Fried angler. LonE LorrE DE - Cut the flUets in in milk. milk, flour lightly, lightly, and and dcep-fry deep-fry in into strips. strips. Dip Ihem them in inro boiling faL fat. garnished with a napkin, napkin, garnished with Drain and and season. season. Serve Serve on on a parsley and fried parsley and Icmon. lemon. fred is Lorrn DE MER pflt6. P,\T nArE CHAUD cHAUD DE DE LOTTE angler pt. Hot al1gJer - This pie is stuffing, in in or whiting sluffing, from fillets fillets of angler, with pike or made from (see EEL). Hot eel pie (see the same same way as as HOl the DE LOTTE LorrE DE DE MER MER -- CU! the MATELoTE DE Cut the angler. MATELOTE Matelot of angler. matelote in white white fillets of angler angler into squares. squares. Cook them them en malelote fillelS (see EEL). matelote (see EEL). red wine, as as for for Eel en en male/ole or red

re ANcELIeUE oE A LA Niort angelica il i la la sybarite. ANGLIQUE DE Ntonr N10RT quality butter dozen or so best best quality syBARrrE SYBARITE - Have ready ready a a dozen or so dish filled with sticks of candied hol), a fruit dish ftlled Wilh brioches (kept hot), brioches.(kept angelica, a bottle angelica cream, a acarafe of iced water, a bOUle of carafe of of angeljea rlOl'lrl'III'C;: packet of Egyptian cigarettes. Light cigarette, sip a a mouthful of ced iced water, crunch a Lighl a cgarelte, piece of of Niort angelica angelica with a piping hot bite of brioche, sip, breathe and savour savour a few drops ofangelica liqueur, and then repeat the whole process. proccss. If, according to A to whom whom we this Austin de Croze, Croze, to we owe [rus ustin de a fresh, fresh, light perfume recipe, the the room room is is sprayed with with a (verbena or an idea of of the or southernwood) one one can can have have an sybaritism. blessed joys of sybaritism. blessed
ANGELS ON ANGELS ON HORSEBACK (English cookery).

A ANGES ANGES

CHEvAL hors-d'euvre is prepared in the following cHEvAL - This hot hors-d'uvre manner. Take plump oysters out of their shells, drain their in a a very very beards, and wrap each one n and remove liquor aod remove their beards. metal skewers, on little metal rasher of bacon. thin thin rasher bacon. Thread them on fingers of of season with salt and and pepper, and grill. Arrange on fingers season toast. with breadcrumbs which sprinkle with Just Just before before serving, serving, sprinkle fried in butter. have been fried
a In cookery, the to a AI\GLAISE the term anglaise is applied to ANGLAISE - In per egg), mixture composed eggs, oi! oil Ci egg), salt composed of of eggs, teaspoon per mixture $ teaspoon and.pepper. and .pepper. Various ingredients which which have have to to be be dipped dipped in in breadbreadVarious mixture, and are are said to be crumbs are first coated with this mixture, 'd l'anglaise'. I'anglaise'. They are then then sautcd sautOed in in butter or oil, or deepdeep' fried.

preparations (A L') given to Name given to viJrious various preparations ANGLAISE ANGLAISE CA - Name (see MUTTON, Leg Zeg of mullon) mutton) or or in water (see cooked in usually cooked (see CHICKEN, English boiled chicken). in white stock (see in English boi/ed term'also applies to the following fish: fish poached in This lermalso grilled or in breadcrumbs; court-bouillon (q.v.); or fried in fish grilled ; fish (see potatoes, boiled in in water or or steamed (sec vegetables, mainly potatoes, POTATOES, POlafOeS Potatoes li d 'anglaise). l'anglaise). porssoxs GRILLS ffsh A L'ANGLAISE l'lNcl,tIsr -I'anglaise. POISSONS cnn-rfs fA Grilled Gdlld f:ls.b i l'anglaise. This method can applied to all fish. fish. The The large fish fish are are CUI cut can be be applied to ail This slices or the 5ma)] small ones ones are are cooked cooked whole, after after into slices or steaks, steaks, the having a few slits in them. The osh, or sliced, sliced, is is slits cut cut in them. The fish, whole or having a few seasoned with with salt oil or or melted melted butter and seasoned salt and coated with ol butter and and
29 29

from Bayonne, Bayonne, 4 km. km. (2* miles} miles) from AI\GLET Town stualed situated 4 ANGLET - Town here, dry dry and and near the sea. is produced here, sea. A famous famous white wine is is called called Vin Vin de de sable. sable. heady, which is Rock salt salt also cornes comes from from Anglet. Rock

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Gastronomic map of Angoumois, Gastronomie map of Angoumois, Aunis and Saintonge

.I,I,IGOULEME A town ANGOULtME - A town in in the the Charente where where famous brandies brandies are are distilled. distilled. A A noted notOO partridge partridge pdtd piit is is made made at Angoul6me Angoulme.
Prigord, Prigord, Limousin Limousin and and Saintonge. Such a neighbourhood neighbourhood could could not not help help but but turn tum the the inhabitants in habitants into into gastronomes, gastronomes, considering considering the the excellence excellence of of its food products. products. Ground Ground and and feathered feathered game game abound abound in.Angoumois. in- Angoumois. Freshwater of all Freshwater fish fish of aIl kinds kinds are are to to be be found found in its ts rivers; the Touvre, Touvre, which which flows flows past past Angoulme, Angoulme, is is still, stiJl, as as Clement Marot Marot said, said, 'paved 'paved with with trout, trout, edged with wth eels ecls and crayfish,' crayfish,' and and these these delicious delicious fish fish and shellfish are made into into mouthwatering watering matelotes. matelotes. Various Various species species of of mushrooms mushrooms are are gathered gathered in in AngouAngoumois. mois. In In the the quarries quarries around around Angoul6me Angoulme cultivated mushmushrooms rooms are are grown; grown; the the delicacy delicacy of of their their flavour fla vour rivals rivais the the famous famous mushrooms mushrooms cultivated cuhivated in in the the quarries quarries around around Paris. Paris. Cattle Cattle bred bred in in this this region region produce produce excellent beef. beef. FirstFirstclass c1ass poultry poultry is is raised raised there, there, Barbezieux Barbezieux chickens chickens being being particularly particularly esteemed. esteemed. Culimry Friture charentaise charentaise composed composed of of Culinary ryecialities speciallties - Friture various various small small fish; fish; cagouilles, cagouilles, stuffed st uffed or or in in ragofit. ragot. (By cagouilleswe cagouilles we mean mean snails. snails. The The inhabitants inhabitants ofCharente of Charente are are so so fond of them them that that they, they, themselves, themselves, are are nicknamed nicknamed cagouilfond of lards.) lards.) Tourtiire (raised pie pe containing containing chickar chicken and and salsify); salsify): Tourtire (raised jugged jelly; preserved jugged hare, hare, to to which which is is added added redcurrant redcurrant jeUy; preserved duck,which is served served with with potatoes potatoes sautEed sauted in in goose goose fat, fat, or or duck, which is
30 30

LNCOUVIOIS This area is situated between ANGOUMOIS - This between Poitou Poitou and

partridge partridge pdtd pt of Ruffec, Ruffec, lark pdtds pts of Exideuil. Sausages, Sausages, saveloys, puddings, chitterlings chiflerlings and and other other 'charcuterie charcuterie sa ve loys , black puddings, are all ail excellent. excellent. Among the the sweet dishes and and cakes cakes there are marvels, marvels, a kind of of fritter; cheesecake cheesecake made made of of Ruffec cheese; chocolate chocolate tartlets tartlets flavoured with brandy. brandy. WinesThe wines wines of of the the Angoumois Angoumois region are mediocre mediocre Wines - The and and are are rarely rarely drunk d runk outside the the province. province. They They are are excellent for for distilling distilling purposes, porposes, however. Charente cognac is made made from these wines wines (see (see COGNAC). COGNAC).

w:rth cCpes with cpes sautded sauted d la bordelaise; gigorit or lamb's pluck; stuffed of variouspdtis stuffed cabbage cabbage calldfarie; calledJare; a selection selection ofvarious pts such as of Barbezieux and as pdti pat de foie Joie gras gras truff of and Angoulme, Angoulme,

tufi

ANGREC ANGREC - A A group group of of plants; plants; some sorne of of the best known known of which grow in in Runion Runion Island and Madagascar, others on the the Cape of of Good Hope Hope and on the the west coast of of Africa. Africa. The most most important important species is is the Angraeanmfragrans; Angraecum Jragrons; its leaves the/aham, tea of of Runion Runion Island, Island, which which is is leaves furnish furnish the faharn, or tea
widely widely used used in the the same same way way as as China China tea. tea.

ANIMELLES ANIMELLES - This This is is a a culinary term term for the the testicles testcles of male male animals, animals, in in particular particular those those of of rams. rams. In ln the the past, past, animelles animelles were were very very much much in in vogue vogue in in France, France, Spain and and Italy. Italy. For For recipes recipes see see OFFAL OFFAL or or VARIETY VARIETY MEATS, MEATS, Animelles. Animelles.
AIYISEED ANISEED (Sweet (Sweet cnmin). cumin). ANrs ANIS vERr VERT - Plants Plants with wilh ovoid ovoid seeds, contracted at at the the top, top, with with a a ribbed ribbed surface surface seeds, slightly slightly contracted
and and short short stiff stiff greyish-green greyish-green hairs. hairs.

ANJOU
proportion of of The proportion several preparations. for several sugar is is used used for preparations. The of for the preparation it is is intended for When it aniseed varies. When preparation of (l oz., 3 tablespoons) aniseed are added g. (1 cake,25 aniseed cake, 25 g. (18 oz., g. (18 castor suga If, on on the the other 2f, cups) 500 g. oz., 2* cups) castor sugar. to to 500 r. If, sponge cakes, cakes, biscuits, flavour sponge to fiavour hand, it is to to be hand, it is be used used to go up proportion of aniseed can can go up to custards or creams, the proportion (18 oz., g. (18 o2.,2* cups) sugar. 500 g. cup) per 500 100 grams (4 oz., i cup) 2* cups) a fine fine and rub on on a aniseed carefully carefully and Method. Pick over the aniseed for 12 12 hours. hours. oven for a slow oyen stalks. Dry in a sieve to remove the stalks. fine sieve sieve to to a fine and sift sift through through a lump sugar, sugar, and Pound with with lump Pound in the the a very fine powder. Pound whatever remains in obtain ob tain a sifted. has been been sifted. until the whole has sieve until jar or and sealed jar or tin, tin, and hermetically sealed sugar in in a a hermetically this sugar Keep this a dry place. store in a satisfactory fiavouring flavouring a more satisfactory Aniseed-flavoured sugar is a Aniseed-fiavoured inrather strong strong and and inwhich is is rather essenc, which agent than than aniseed essence, agent flavour. aniseed smell smell than fiavour. an aniseed clined to have more of an c1ined

Aniseed a. Fruit a. b. Flower

The seeds sold in the shops must be c1eansed cleansed of the soil which often to them. them. Parsley seed, which seed, with with the the hairs often sticks sticks to

is sometimes sometimes fraudulently sold ptisserie anianisold as pdtisserie removed, is seed. Aniseed is used in confectionery confectionery and and distilling.
pAINs (Ahatian pastry). cookies (Alsatian pastry). PAINS A L'ANIS L'ANIs - Mix Aniseed oookies

g. (18 500 g. (18 oz., 500 12 eggs oz., 2| cups) cups) fine fine castor sugar sugar and and 12 in a a eggs in copper basin. basin. Beat the mixture with a as for for an an ordia whisk as nary sponge cake. (18 oz., When the the mixture is g. (18 When is weil well whisked, add 500 whisked, add 500 g. (7 oz., g. (7 4t cups) cornfiour cornflour 4| cups) sieved fiour, flour, 200 g. oz., scant 2 cups) (2 oz., and 50 g. 1 cup) aniseed (in grains). Mix weil. g. (2 well. oz,l Drop tablespoons of the a wetted wetted baking the mixture onto a sheet. Place in a warm place to dry. When the cookies begin to rise slightly, slightly, bake in a cool oyen. oven. Aniseed-flavoured Aniseed-flavoured sugrr. SUCRE ANIsf -- Aniseed-fiavoured Aniseed-flavoured sugar. sucR"E ANIS

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The best aniseed liqueur. The best aniseed Aniseed-based liqueur. AI\IISETTE ANISETIE - Aniseed-based is also also anisette is liqueur in France France is made in Bordeaux. Dutch anisette liqueur repute. held in high repute. held LIQUEURS, (For the preparation of see LIQUEURS, liqueur see of the the liqueur the preparation (For Anise or anisette liqueur.)
and harmony where ANJOU of sweetness the cuisine anisine where the sweetness and ANJOU - Land of natural beauty. beauty. and wines match its natura] and gastronome and great gastronome a native native of of and a Henry Coutant, a great Coutant, a Henry its skies, harmon'Its cuisine is as as mellow mellow as as its skies, harmoncuisine is wrote: 'Its Anjou, wrote: and of Anjou's wittiest wittiest sons sons and one of as its horizons. Did not one ious as Anjou great gourmet, gounneL the say that that Anjou humourist Curnonsky, Curnonsky, say a the humourist a great gastronomy what Racine And Coutant Coutant literature?' And is to gastronomy Racine is is to to literature?' is went on: on: like the humour humour ofits ofits in inhabitants: 'As to its wines, are like 'As habitants : wines, they are

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ANJOU ANJOU
light and and sparkling, sparkling, of of incomparable incomparable tas attimes taste, but at timesalso also light te, but malicious and and treacherous treacherous towards towards those those who who have have no no idea idea malicious how to to face face up to their up to their caprices caprices with preparation. with adequate adequate preparation. how Admirable wines, wines, however, however, which which merit merit one one of of the the first first Admirable places among great wines among the the great wines of France.' of France.' places Anjou cattle, give meat cattle, bred for food, bred for food, give meat of quality. ofexcellent excellent quality. Anjou The Maine Maine region region cattle cattle are are famous quality of famous for for the the quality of their their The meat, and and so so are are the the Cholet Cholet cattle. cattle. meat, pork is Anjou pork greatest delicacy, is of of the the greatest delicacy, and and various various locally locally Anjou potted park pork mince, made charcuterie charcuterie -- rillettes, rillettes, potted mince, andouilles, andouilles, made (U.5. blood) puddings -- are black (U.S. scrusages, black blood) puddings are admirable admirable sausages, just the 'bacchic sspurs', as Rabelais Rabelais called called them, them, just the thing thing to to 'bacchic purs', as make one one appreciate appreciate the the fragrant fragrant wines wines of of the the Anjou Anjou vinevinemake yards. yards. Anjou chickens chickens are are tender plump, and tender and and plump, and make make excellent excellent Anjou fricasses. fricassies. 'The fish fish which which the generously offers the Loire Loire so so generously offers us us between between 'The Saumur and and Champtoceaux Champtoceaux is is more more delicate delicate than than anywhere anywhere Saumur else,'declares gourmand. an Anjou Anjou gourmand. else,' declares an pike are Its pike are among among the the finest; finest; its its shad, shad, its its tench tench and and its its Its bream know know no no rivaIs. rivals. For pike and For pike and shad, shad, the the cooks cooks of bream of passed on Anjou have have passed generation to on from from generation generation the to generation Anjou the for a a succulent succulent sauce, (white butter), sauce, beurre beurre blanc blanc (white butter), the recipe for the thste ofwhich of which is a a fragrant fragrant delight. delight. Tench Tench and and bream, creamy taste bream, particularly bream, bream, are are cooked cooked chiefly chiefly with with a a sorrel sorrel stuffing particularly stuffing which makes a savoury foundation a savoury foundation for for their their flesh. flesh. The Loire salmon salmon are are famous; famous; they they are are cQnsidered The censidered the the best best all French river river salmon. salmon. of ail is excellent excellent in in Anjou. The The whole Poultry is whole worId world knows knows of of capon de de la fliche and chicken chicken du du Mans. Mans. First-class capon flche and First-class game game is is found here. here. also found green cabbages Anjou vegetable produce is superb. superb. The The green cabbages of of as they this region, the piochous, as they are are caIled, called, are are weil well known known and are made made into into those fricasses and which delight delight the lovers the loyers Jricassles which of country dishes. The Anjou Anjou orchards produce excellent The orchards produce excellent fruit; fruit; pears, and cider apples, plums and dessert and and strawberries. strawberries. 'We must 'We must pay homage homage to the fruits of Anjou, which which form form a a vegetable aristocracy of province of aristocracy of this this province France,' said of France,' said gastronome Henry Coutant. Coutant. Anjou cheeses are renowned. The The famous Angers Angers crmets cremeE (soft fresh cream cream cheeses) should really be classed classed among among the the sweet courses rather than the cheeses. These crmets, sweet crimets. which which eaten with are generally eaten with sugar, sugar, can can also also be be sprinkled sprinkled with with salt and flavoured with chives.

The The Loire Loire near (FrenchGOI'emmenl nearSaumur Saumur (French GovernmentTourisi Tourist Office) Offce)

With With food quality available food of of such such quality available the master cooks themaster cooksand and cordons cordons bleus of Anjou bleus of Anjou are are naturally naturally noted noted for for their theircuisine. caisine. Culinary Culinary speciaUties specialities -- Saumur (greaves); Saumur rillettes,' rillettes; rillons rillons(greaves); potted potted park pork mince,' puddings and mince; white white puddings and other other charcuterie charcaterie made pork of from the made from fine pork the fine of the the region. region. Bouilleture, a kind Bouilleture,a kind of of matelote matelote ofvarious principally fishes, principally of various fishes, eels; eels; stuffed stuffed shad; shad; bream pike or bream in in butter; butter; pike or shad shad au au beurre beurre blanc (white butter); blanc (white butter); matelotes matelotes of perch with offreshwater with freshwater fish; fish; perch prunes; prunes; fish pdti. stews; eel eel pt. fish stews; Rump Rump of pig's fry; of veal veal gogue; fricasse d l'angevine; I'angevine; pig's of fry ; gogue; fricassie of chicken; partridge (boiled green chicken; partridge d la la mancelle; mancelle ; choue green chouie (boiled cabbage cabbage sprinkled sprinkled with green cabbage; with butter) butter);;fricasse of green cabbage; fricassie of lads with fricasse green sa of cauliflower; cauliflower; green salads with walnut walnut ail. oil. fricassde of Well-known Well-known cheeses cheeses include include the the Saumur Saumur chouz; chouzi; caillecaillebotte botte d la la chardonette, chardonette, and the Saumur and the Saumur and and Angers Angers crmets. crimets. Other Other famous famous dishes dishes are (similar are bijane bijane or 'magpie soup' or 'magpie soup' (similar to to the the Saintonge Saintonge broth) broth) -- bread bread crumbled crumbled into into sweetened sweetened red red wine; roast meat wine; roast (maize meal meat with with hot hot wine; wine; millire milliire (maize and rice rice meal and porridge); porridge); foue (a sort girdle cake of fiat flat girdle sort of cake made made of of bread bread fouie (a dough, (flat cakes dough, spread spread with with butter);fouace butter);fouace (fiat cakes baked baked in in the the

A vineyard vineyard on on the the bank bank of the Loire Loire at Huill A at Huill6 of the

32 32

ANJOU ANJOU

Champ/ace '4 LOIP.~ SJartlleJemy S.'{jeore~5fL Bra;ns/./Au/IIIOII Sovennil!~ ~ ___- -__ IlIgrolldes LoPosJo.nmf! l'turs Monljeau R~c/iefort- 5.' Me/alfle Le Tl7ourei/ Cliobonlles -JUr!oJrr. BrIssac laPommeroye '..St.4UblfldNUlgne)~ ~ Gellnes ~ C/laudefond' BeaulIeu f'LamIJu; ol'oye .~.f .~~ dlJLalloy "our:rel! 1 . . ~'l Q"\ ).. ~ C' Chavaglles 5Wtlolre <:JO ~;\()\'I' o~f: LeCllo,:p .. 5~/orl!nt. ">r:sq(#).~<:J IRE 1v foyeroye 110~!lne8rlafll! Varratn! \"-t-Q'I' \.0

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( Map of the principal vineyards vineyards in Anjou ~

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Bottles Botties and a glass for Anjou wine

of'fouaciers ofLern hearth). Rabelais speaks 'fouaciers of Lern (or Lernay), spaks of Lernay), which shows how long these cakes have of Maine-et-Loire,' which known. There There are are also also guillaret or chaud; ichaudi; Angers been known. gui/laret or been guillaret are and the gui/laret are aniseed biscuits; prune pie. pie. The fouace fouace and bisaits; prune not delicate pastries; in the past they used to be sold in the in western western France. Their main main quality markets and at fairs fairs in was to provoke thirst. Wines Wines - The Anjou wines include those of the Angers and (which have Saumur regions have a a right right to to the the appellations appellations Saumur regions (which 'Anjou' and 'Saumur'). 'Saumur'). Ch6nin grape. White wines. wines. These are made from the Chnin White Saumur. Very dry white wines wines with with a a strong Saumur. Very dry strong bouquet. process of the They stand up They up very very weIl well to to the the fermenting fermenting process semi-sparkling mthode mdthode champenoise to to give very very pleasant semi-sparkling grown on the banks of and sparkling sparkling wines. wines. The grapes are grown Thouet. Brz, Brezg, the tributary, the Thouet. the Loire and on those of its tributary, Parnay and Montsoreau Parnay Montsoreau are three of of the principal vineyards. with a wines with de la la Iniire. Fine, elegant white white wines Coteawc de Coteaux Loire. Fine, produced here; get dryer every strong bouquet are produced here; these strong bouquet are these get year. The best-known are those year. Epir6, Saventhose of Epir, best-known vineyards are nidres (which has a right to a special appellation), Rochenires appellation). la Rocheaux-Moines and and la la Coule de Serrant, Serrant, both both on on the the right aux-Moines Coule de bank. vineyard that was was preLa Coule Coule de de Serrant is a walled vineyard chamberlain Perthus Perthus de Brie along sented by Louis XI to his chamberlain chAteau which has since disappeared. disappeared. with a chteau It was was at at la la Roche-aux-Moines, Roche-aux-Moines, on 12L4, that 27 July It on 27 lruJy 1214, that John Lackland was was defeated defeated by Philippe John by Louis XI, XI, son son of Philippe Auguste. The The vineyard, vineyard, planted monks of SaintAuguste. planted by by the the monks Nicolas Nicolas of Angers, dates back to the eleventh eleventh century century A.D. Coteaux du &t Layon. Coteaux Layon. Liqueur-like aromatic white white wines made from made from over-ripe grapes ('la pourriture noble' or 'noble t ot', Botrytis cenerea). rot', cenerea). great liqueur-like The great liqueurJike Anjou wines are at their best in the Bonnezeaux and Quarts-de-Chaume appellations. The Bonnezeaux and Quarts-de-Chaume appellations. mentioning Coteaux de l'Aubance I'Aubance are also worth mentioning excellent - excellent River Aubance. white wines from the banks of the River Red wines. The The red red wines wines of Anjou and and Saumur Red wines. Saumur come from the Cabernet grape. The best known of them (and for good reason) Saumur-Champigny with with its its exquisite good reason) is is Saumur-Champigny It was strawberry bouquet and and deep deep ruby ruby colour. colour. It strawberry was Curnonsky's favourite wine. Rosi The ross ros6s of Anjou Ros wines. The Anjou and and Saumur, velvety or well known and much in demand. They are dry, are weB are made

grapes. The The Cabernet from the the Gamay, and Groslot grapes. from C6t and Gamay, Ct ros ros6 is (as its name indicates) produced exclusively from the Cabernet grape. all into verse: The Angevin Angevin poet Marc Leclerc has put it aIl

Voici les les vins du Layon, Beaulieu, Rablay, Touarc, Beaulieu, Touarc6, Faye, Doux coum' le miel au rayon, Chauds coum' le soleil qui raye, Voil Voild la Coule Coulie d' Serrant, S avenniC r e s, Saint-Barthlemy, Saint- Bar thC lemy, Savennires, Qui tiennent tiennent ben aussi leu rang d'La Possotuiire, La Possonnire, canss d' Avec ceuss Ceux de dc Saumur Saumur et d'alentour, Varrains ou Saint-Cyr-en-Bourg, Saint-C yr-en- Bourg, Mont Montsoreau, soreau, Parnay, Dampierre, gofrt d' pierre, Et leu si plaisant plaisant got qu'd la L' champigny Ia couleur couleur L' champigny qu' Et la senteur des des framboises framboses Et l'on I'on n' sait quel est l' meilleur Vin de de tuffeau nffeau ou ou vin d'ardose. d'ardoCse.

Here are the wines of Layon, Touarc6, Faye, Beaulieu, Rablay, Touarc, Sweet as honey in the comb, Glowing like the sun's ray, There is the Coule Coule de Serrant, S avennidres, Sain t- Barthlemy, Savennires, Saint-Barthlemy, That are every bit as good Possonnidre As those of La Possonnire Of Saumur and its neighbours Varrains Varrains or Saint-Cyr-en-Bourg, Saint-Cyr-en-Bourg, Montsoreau, Dampierre, Montsoreau, Parnay, Dampierre, And the raspberry-scented Champigny Champigny The colour of rubies Laced with the tang of the soil slate Chalk or sla te Who can say which is best. Good quality marc brandies (distilled from the husks of grapes after after the wine has has been made) and and sorne some highly grapes the wine been made) d'Angers are also proesteemed liqueurs such as Guignolet d'Angers duced in this region. Segr cider, which is excellent. excellent. Finally, there is Segr

33

ANNA POT POTATOES ANNA ATOES

ANTISEPSIS. ANTISEPSIE nvnsnpsrr - - Method ANTISEPSIS. Method wruch which aims aims at atthe the preventionof putrefaction or of putrefaction orinfection infection by prevention useof ofchemical byuse chemical substances. The The salting salting and and smoking smoking of meatactually substances. actually conconof meat stitutes an an application application of of antiseptic antiseptic treatment. stitutes treatment.The Theuse useof of vinegar in in marinades, marinades, and preserving vinegar and of ofsalt saltor forpreserving alcoholfor or alcohol purpose.With fruit, also also achieves achieves this fruit, thispurpose. With exceptions, exceptions, the useof of theuse preservativesfor antiseptics as generally antiseptics as preservatives forfood foodsubstances isgenerally substances is practice can condemned. The Thepractice condemned. can be bedangerous, dangerous, except exceptin inthe the qualified food hands of hands of gualified chemists,who food chemists, who use, when reguired, required, use,when selected substances substances which selected which are arestrictly strictly controlled controlled by byapproappropriate laws. priate laws.
ANTISEPTICS. ANTISEPTICS. ANTISEPTIQUES lNnsnprrer.rEs - - Substances Substanceswhich whichcountercounterputrefaction, fermentation act putrefaction, (See PRESERact fermentation and and infection. infection. (See PRESERVATION.) vATroN.)

for Anna Anna potaloes Casserole for Dotatoes Casserole

pomvrns DE POTATOES. DE TERRE rERRE ANNA ANNA -- A ANNA POT ATOES. POMMES A method method of of potatoes cut cut in in thin round slices, thin round slices, cooked preparing potatoes cooked in in butter butter (See POT in a or a a covered a special special utensil utensil or covered terrine. terrine. (See POTATOES.) in A TOES.)

(A V) ANVERSOISE ANVERSOISE ( L') -- Method Method of preparing large large and of preparing and pieces of small small pieces of meat, meat, calves' calves' sweetbreads sweetbreads and andeggs. eggs.These Theseare are garnished with garnished with hop hopstaJks potatoes stalks in in butter butter or orcream cream and and potatoes fried fried in in butter. butter.
AOUDZ AOUDZE -- Name given in Name given in Ethiopia Ethiopia to to aastrongly strongly spiced spiced sauce sauce whichis which is made pimento, ginger, ginger, cloyes made of of pimento, cloves and and an an aromatic plant somewhat aromatic plant somewhat similar similar to to thyme, known as thymeoknown as zgakelie. zigakelie. The The Ethiopians Ethiopians serve serve this this sauce sauce with with aadish dish which which they they cali call brondo, brondo, of of which which they they are are very very fond. fond. APRITIF pharmacopoeia recognised APERITIF -- The The old old pharmacopoeia recognised major major bitters (roots of parsley, fenneJ, bitters (roots of parsley, fennel, asparagus asparagus and and butcher's butcher's broom) (roots ofmaidenhair and minor minor bitters broom) and bitters (roots fern, couchof maidenhair fern, couchgrass, grass, thistle, rest-harrow and thistle, rest-harrow and strawberry-plant). strawberry-plant). The The term term as as used used today today only only applies applies to to stimulants stimulants of appetite. of appetite. Apritifs Aperitifs served greater or served in in cafs cafts are are drinks drinks of of aa greater or lesser lesser degree degree of of bitterness, bitterness, variously variously flavoured, flavoured, which which are are drunk drunk neat or diluted diluted with generally have neat or with water. water. They They generally have aa strong strong alcoholic alcoholic content, content, because because the which they are they are the essences essences of of which composed (which is composed are not soluble alcohol (which are not soluble except except in in strong is strong alcohol why go cloudy why they they go cloudy when when mixed mixed with water) and and this this alcohol with water) alcohol content great extent content to to a a great nullifies the extent nullifies action of of the the the beneficial beneficial action bitters. bitters. But, (or perhaps But, through perhaps through through sheer sheer force force of of habit habit (or through imagination), people think imagination), sorne some people think that have no that they they have no appetite appetite unless (or apritifs). unless they they have have their their daily daily apritif apritif (or aperitifs). It It is is this this fact fact which phrase that which has has led led to to the the coining coining of of the the phrase that if if an an apritifcan apritif can open open the the appetite, appetite, it it does does so so with with aa skeleton skeleton key. key. Be Be this this as as it it may, may, the the apritif was, and apritif was, and still still is, is, a a traditional traditional rite rite in in certain certain circles. circles.

porrauns DE ANNETIE POT POTATOES. ANNEITE ATOES. POMMES DE TERRE rERRE ANNETTE ANNETTE -Prepared like potatoes, but potatoes should like Anna Anna potatoes, Prepared but the the potatoes be should be (q.v.). (See (See POTATOES.) shredded into into fine fine julienne strips shredded strips (g.v.). POTATOES.)

Annona Annona 1. l. Cherimoya Cherimoya 2. 2. BulJock's Bullock's heart heart 3. 3. Sour sop

ANNONA. ANONE - The annona or custard apple ANNONA. ANoNEapple is fruit is the fruit of of a family of of trees (Annonaceae) native to to tropical tropical America America but cultivated cultivated in southern California and and tropical tropical Asia. The The cherimoya (Annona (Annona cherimolia), one cherimoya one of of the the most most popular globe artichoke varieties, resembles a a globe artichoke in in both both colour colour and and shape, with the difference that its skin is is shiny. shiny. It It has has cream cream coloured flesh, less white than coloured (Annona than that of the sour sour sop sop (Annona muricata), which is larger and more is larger more acid in in flavour. flavour. The The sweet sweet sop (Annona squamosa), which sorne some people say say is is the the true true apple, is particularly popular popular in custard apple, in the the West West Indies Indies and and has a sweet, sweet, custard-like custard-like flavour flavour and a a strong strong scent. Annonas scent. Annonas
are only eaten raw.

vast numbers in in the the English English Channel. in vast Its flesh flesh is is very Channel. Its very layered. white, and layered. white, The fishing season mainly January The season for it is mainly January and and February. February. the U.S.A. hake hake and and cusk cusk (usually sold fillets) are In the sold in in fillets) are very very to this this fish. fish. similar to For cookery cookery purposes purposes it it is is treated treated as For (q.v.). as whiting whiting (g.v.). ANTHRACITE - Coal Coal remarkable remarkabJe for for its its great purity; one ANTHRACITE great purity; one of the the fuels fuels which which is is used, used, in in preference preference to to others, others, for heating of for heating and cooking. cooking. and

ANON - This fish, one of of the the varieties of ANON of haddock, haddock, abounds abounds

ANTIDOTE. coNrRE-porsoN CONTRE-POISON Substance capable of ANTIDOTE. Substance capable of neutralising the the toxic toxic properties of of another another substance, by neutralising substance, by forming with with it it an an insoluble insoluble non-toxic non-toxic combination. combination. forming 34 34

La Moitte afler a painting by Lancrel an engraving La Partie Partie de de Plisir, Plaisir, an engraving by by de de Moitte after a painting by Lancret

APHORISMS APHORISMS AND AND AXIOMS AXIOMS

The The traditional traditional ap6ritif apritif 'rite' -rite' is is tending tending to to disappear. disappear. Those Those who who used used to to look look upon upon it it as an an occasion occasion to to meet meet their their friends or simply simply as a a form fonn of of relaxation relaxation are are beginning beginning to to friends or substitute substitute for for this'agreeablefaux this 'agreeablefaux pas pas of of the the pdlate'perhaps pi1[ate' perhaps a a fruit fruit juice, juiee, or or a a glass glass of of mineral minerai water, water, or - better betler still stillsimply simply a a glass glass of of wine. wine.
14. 14. A A dessert dessert without wit hout cheese cheese is is like 1ike a beautiful bea utiful woman woman

with with one one eye. cye.

15. 15. One One can can learn lcam to to cook. cook, but but a a restaurateur restaurateur is is born. born.

Doctor Doctor Ramain, Ramain, who who calls calls himself himself an an 'independent 'independent gastronome', gastronome', has has selected selected what wha t he he considers considers to to be be the the best best apritifs and lists lists them them in in the the following following order: order : apritifs and L 1. The The best best vintage vintage brut brui Champagne, served served well weil chilled chilled and and sparkling sparkling with with tiny tiny bubbles. bubbles. 2. 2. The The still still Champagne Champagne Blanc Blanc de de Blancs. Blancs. 3. 3. A A glass glass of of genuine genuine old old sherry; sherry; or, or, better beUer still, an an authentic authentc Chdteau-Chdlon Cbteau-Chlon yellow yellow wine wine from from the the Jura. Jura. 4. 4. An An 'Aligot6' 'Aligot' white white Burgundy Burgundy (Aligot6 (Aligot is is the the name name of of the the grape) grape) blended blended with with a a little little fine fine Cassis. Cassis. 'Kir,' 'Kir,' as as this trus mixture mixture is is called, called, is is a a misnomer, misnomer, since since it il was was already already being being drunk drunk in in Burgundy Burgundy in in l9l2,long 1912, long before before the the Alsatian AJsatian Canon Canon Kir Kir held held office office as as deputy deputy mayor mayor of of Dijon. Dijon. 5. 5. A A good good quality quality Scotch Scotch whisky whisky served served neat neat or or with with a a splash splash of of soda. soda. 6. 6. Certain Certain authentic authentic Italian Italian vermouths, vermouths, alone, alone, or or with with ice, ice, or or with with chilled chilled sparkling sparkling mineral minerai water. water. 7. 7. One One of of a a small small number number of of good good dry dry French French vennouths vermouths such such as as Noilly, Noilly, drunk drunk neat, neat, or or with with sparkling sparkling mineral minerai water wateror or (wait (wail for for it!) it!) blended blended with with Casis. Casis. Even Even the the ancient aocient (but (but reborn!) rebom! ) Savoyard Savoyard Chamb6ry Chambry vermouths vermout hs are are recommended. recommended. 8. 8. As As a a last last resort, resort, during during the the long long hot hot summer summer days days (especially (espccially if jf you you happur happen to to live live in in the the south south of of France) France) a a splendid splendid light'pastis' light 'pastis' simply simply because because its its tart tan aniseed aniseed flavour flavour refreshes refreshes the the palate palate without without spoiling spoiling the the appetite. appetite.

APHORISMS APHORlSMS AND AND AXIOMS. AXIOMS, ApHoRTsMES APHORISMES Er ET AxroMEs AXIOMES * Short Short pithy pithy maxims, maxims, expressing expressing rules rules and and precepts precepts of of
gastronomy, gastronomy, hygiene hygiene and and everything everything pertaining pertaining to to the the table, table, the the most most celebrated celebrated of of which which are are those those of of Brillat-Savarin, Brillat-Savarin, given given by by this this master master of ofgastronomical gastronomical sciences sciences as as a a preface preface to to Physiologie Physiologie du du gofrt. got. Here Here they they are: are: l. 1. The The universe universe is is nothing nothing except except for for life, life, and and everything everything that that lives lives has has to to feed feed itself. itself. 2. 2. Animals Animais feed; feed; man man eats; eats; only only a a man man of ofwit wit knows knows how how to to eat. eal. 3. 3. The The destiny destiny of of nations nations depends depends on on their tbeir manner manner of of eating. eating. 4. 4. Tell Tell me me what what you you eat, eat, and and IJshall shall tell tell you you what what you you are. are. 5. 5. The The Creator, Creator, by by making making man man eat eat to to live, live, invites invites him him to to do do so so with witb appetite appetite and and rewards rewards him him with with pleasure. pleasure. 6. 6. Gourmandism Gourmandism is is an an act act of of judgement, judgement, by by which wbich we we prefer prefer things thingswhich which have have a a pleasant pleasant taste taste to to those thosewhich which lack lack this this quality. quality. 7. 7. The The pleasures pleasures of of the the table table belong belong to to all ail agei, ageS, to to all ail conditions, conditions, to to all ail countries countries and and to to every every day; day; they they can can be be associated associated with with all ail the the other other pleasures pleasures and and remain remain the the longest us for for the the loss loss of ofthe the rest. rest. longest to to console console us 8. 8. The The table table is is the the only only place place where where one one is s never never bored bored during during the the first first hour. hour. 9. 9. The The discovery di5covery of ofa a new new dish dish does does more more for for the the happihappiness ness of ofmankind mankind than than the the discovery discovery of ofa a star. star. 10. 10. Those Those who who give give themselves themselves indigestion indigestion or or get get drunk, d run k, do do not not know know how how to to eat eat or or drink. drink. I Il. l. The Thecorrect correct order orderof offoods foods is isstarting startingwith with the theheaviest heaviest and and ending ending with with the the lightest. lightesl. 12. 12. The The correct correct order order of of beverages beverages is is starting starting with with the the most most temperate temperateand and ending endingwith with the the most most heady. beady. 13. 13. To To claim daim that tbat wines wines should should not not be he changed changed is is aa heresy; heresy; the the palate palate becomes becomes saturated saturated and and after aner the the third third glass glass the the best best of of wines wines arouses arouses nothing nothing but but an an obscure obscure sensation. sensation.
35 35

16. The The most most indispensable indispensable quality quality of of a cook is is punctupunctual.ity; alty; it should should also also be be that that of of a a guest. guesl. 17. 17. To To wait wait too too long long for for a a late-comer late-comer is is to to show show a a lack lack of consideration consideration for for all all those those present. present. 18. 18. He He who who receives receives his his friends friends and and gives gives. no no personal personal attention attention to to the tbe meal meal which which is is being being prepared prcpared for for them, them, is is not not worthy worthy of of having having friends. friends. 19. 19. The The mistress mistress of of the the house house must must always always make make sure sure that that her her coffee coffee is is excellent, excellent, and and the the master master of of the the house house that that his his wines wines are are choice. choice. 20. 20. To To invite invite someone sorne one is is to to take take charge charge of of his his happiness happiness during during the the time time he he spends spends under under your your roof. roof. Some Sorne of of Brillat-Savarin's Brillat-Savarin's aphorisms, aphorisms, notably notably the the one one which which claims daims that that 'One 'One can can learn learn to to cook, cook, but but a a restaurateur restaurateur is ! is born' born' are are rather rather disputable disputable! There Thcre are are many many other other gastronomic gastronomie aphorisms. aphorisms, We We quote quote some sorne which which are are attributed attributed to to the the actor actor Des Des Essarts, Essarts, who, who, according according to to a a contemporary contemporary author, author, had had an an appetite appetite proproportionate poronate to to his his corpulence corpuleoce (Des (Des Essarts Essarts was was very very fat) fat) and and was wit- qualities was as as much much a a gastronome gastronome as as a a man man of ofwitqualities which which often oflen go go together. together. Some daim that that he he was was the the precursor precursor of of BrillatBrillatSorne people people claim Savarin. Savarin. A A good good dinner dinner would wou Id put put him him into into good good spirits. spirits. LIe He would would eloquently eloquently analyse analyse the the qualities qualities of of each each dish dish and and create crea te amusingly amusingly bizatre bizafre combinations combinations of of words: words: 'Good 'Good cookery cookery is is the the food food of of a a clear clear conscience.' conscience.' 'Let the the leg leg of ofmutton multon be be awaited awaited as as the the first first lovers' lovers' meetmeeting, caught in in the the act, act, golden golden as as a a young young ing, mortified mortified as as a a liar liar caught German German girl, girl, and and bloody bloody as as a a Carib.' Carib.' 'Take 'Take advantage advantage of of the the gracious gracious condescension condescenson of of the the elegant calf's kidney, kidney, multiply multiply its its metamorphoses; metamorphoses; you you can, can, eJegant calf's without without giving givlng it it offence, offence, call cali it it the the chameleon chameleon of of cuisine.' cuisine.' 'Make 'Make of of an an egg egg an an amiable amiable intermediary intermediary which which comes cornes between betweeo the the various various parts parts of of food food to to bring bring about about difficult difficult reconciliations.' reconcil iations.' 'Mutton 'Mutlon is is to to lamb lamb what what a a millionaire millionaire uncle uncle is is to to his his poverty-stricken poverty-strcken nephew.' oephew.' 'A 'A vineJeaf vine-leaf wrapped wrapped round round a a partridge partridge brings brings out ot its its quality, quality, just just as as the the barrel barrel of of Diogenes Diogenes brought brought forth forth the the qualities qualities of ofthe the great great thinker.' thinker.' 'Never 'Never forget forget that that the the pheasant pheasant must must be be awaited awaited like like the the pension ofa a man man of ofletters letters who who has has never never written written epistles epistles to to pension of the the ministers m.inisters or or madrigals madrigals to to their their mistresses.' mistresses.' Des Des Essarts, Essarts, born born at at Langres Langres in in 1740, 1740, was was one one of ofthe the best best actors actors of ofthe the Comdie-Frangaise. Comdie-Franaise. He He died died suddenly suddenly in1793, in 1793, on on hearing hearing ofthe of the arrest arrest ofone of one ofhis of bis best best friends. friends. The The poets poets and and prose prose writers writers of ofthe the past past have have also also formuformulated lated gastronomical gastronomical aphorisms aphorisms and and axioms. axioms. Horace, Horace, who who set setgreat grea tstore storeby bythe thecleanliness c1ean liness of ofthe the table, table, and and above above all ail insisted insisted that that one one should should be be able able to to see see one's one's reflection reftection mirrored m.irrored in in the the plates plates and and glasses, glasses, wrote wrote as as follows: follows: 'The 'The stomach stomach heaves heaves when when one one receives receives from from a a valet valet a a goblet goblet bearing bearing the the greasy greasy imprint imprint of of his his sauce-stained sauce-stained fingers, fingers, and and when when one one sees sees at at the the bottom boltom the the filthy filthy dregs dregs collected collected there.' there.' Plutarch Plutarch makes makes this this statement statement - which which he he attributes attributes to to Aemilius Aemilius Paulus, Paulus, the theconqueror conqueror of ofPersia: Persia: 'The 'Tbesame sameintelliintelligence genceis is required required to to marshal marshal an an arrny army in in battle battle as as to to order orderaa good gooddinner. dinner. The Thefirst firstmust must be beas asformidable formidable as aspossible, possible, the the second second as as pleasant pleasantas as possible, possible, to to the the participants.' participants.' In In these these words words Plutarch Plutarch gives gives a a valuable valuable lesson lesson to to all al! would-be would-be gastronomes, gastronomes, to to those those who who frequently frequently compose compose menus menuswhich which would would give give no no pleasure pleasure to to aa true truegastronome. gastronome. Rabelais Rabelais categorically categorically declares declares that that only only 'candle-lit' 'candie-lit'

'kt

APHORISMS AND AXIOMS

dinners and suppers suppers are pleasing. He goes goes on to say: 'There 'There is no good cheer cheer except at night when the the lanterns are in place with wilh their gentle gentle flickering lights.' Nearer to our own time, other writers and gastronomes have have formulated many many aphorisms which may may be be taken taken as sound sound gastronomical gastronomical rules. rules. Thus Carme Carme gives the following advice to ministers and diplomats: 'The culinary art follows diplomacy, and every prime prime minister minister should pay it tribute.' tribute.' Talleyrand knew used to knew this this only too too well. weil. He He used ta advise French ambassadors ambassadors at the courts courts of foreign sovereigns sovereigns to ta rely more on their their casseroles than on their secretaries. secreta ries. chamber, Carme also says: 'To 'To preside preside over a political cham ber, or Car6me course in gastroa post in an embassy, em bassy, is to ta take a a course to hold a nomy.' Another of Carme's aphorisms stresses how very very imAnother of Carme's stresses how portant is is the the part part played played by by cookery: 'When 'When there is is no more cookery in the world there will be no more letters, no quick and lofty intelligence, no no pleasant pleasant easy relationships, relationships, (Pdtissier pittoresque) no more social unity.' unit y.' (Ptissier pilloresque) Saint-Beuve is responsible Saint-Beuve responsible for this aphorism: 'Intellectual 'IntelJectual quickly wolf men who quckly wolf down whatever nourishment nourislunent is necesnecessary for for their sary their bodies with with a a kind kind of disdain, disdain, may may be be very rational of rational and have have a lofty intelligence, but they are not men of taste.' a gastronome and Monselet, who who was was a and extremely witty, witt y, Monselet, writings. This one shows formulated many aphorisms in his writings. formulated social importance importance of good dinners: the social 'Tout sefait siicle o oil 1101lS nous sommes sommes 'Toul dnant dans se fait en dinant dans le sicle c'est par des dner. Et c'est diners qu'on gouverne les hommes.' 'Everything is done at dinner in the century in which which we live, and it is by dinners that men are governed.' Monselet also wrote: 'Gastronomy is the joy joy of every condition and every age. It adds beauty to wit.' lt 'A gourmet is a a being pleasing to Heaven.' 'A passions, rationalised 'All passions, 'AJI rationalised and controlled, become an art. is sensitive sensitive to to more than other passion, Gastronomy, more than any Gastronomy, any other passion, is and direction.' reasoning and pleasant hours of our Iife point: the pleasant life well on this point: 'Ponder weil less intangible intangible link, more or all connected, by a more or less are by a link, with are ail some memory of the the table.' sorne 'There are to produce are many many flowers which serve serve only only to 'There flowers which could have made made savoury dishes.' of which one could essences, ofwhich And in his Le!lres Lettres d Emilie he gives the following advce advice to 'Enchant, stay beautiful beautiful and gracious; but to do all women: 'Enchant, ail well. Dring Bring the the same consideration consideration to the preparata the this, eat weil. your appearance. Let your devote ta to your appearance. tion ofyour ofyour food as you devote like your dress.' be a a poem, Iike dinner be great-nephew of the great-nephew of Brillat-Savarin, Tendret, the Lucien Tendret, Lucien a few gastronomical aphorisms in his book La Table created a are, no no doubt. doubt, less famous de Brillat-Savarin. au pays de Brillat-Savarin. They are, gottt, but a &t got, a few few of of author of Physiologie than those of the author Physiologie du them them deserve to be be quoted here: 'Cuisine is it is both an art art and and a a science. It is is an an art art when when it both an science. Il 'Cuisine and the to bring bring about about the the realisation realisation of of the the true and the true strives to (the good) in in the order of culinary bon (Ihe le bon the order beautiful, beautiful, called le and it is analagous analagous ta to chemistry, physics and a science, science, jt ideas. As a theorems Its natural history. 1 ts axioms are called aphorisms, its theorems natural gastronomy.' philosophy gastronomy.' and its philosophy recipes, and are identical, but the the fleeting beautiful and and the the good are 'The beautiful work of a a cook cook or or a a musician created by by the the work impressions created as they they are are being experienced. Raphael's disperse disperse even even as being experienced. painting The The Transfiguration Transfiguration is is immortal, immortal, but but Carme's Carme's painting lasts only only while while it is is being Ragottt de de truffes truffes d la parisienne Ragot parisienne lasts just as be roses last last as as long long as as their their fragrance can can he eaten, Just as roses eaten, enjoyed.' not and even if he may mav not 'The cook cook is is no no less than an an anist, artist. and even jf
36 36 be he on the level level of of Polygnotus PoJygnotus and Phidias, Phidias, he he has his his part part and his place in civilisation as a whole.' whole."

'Skilful cookery has always made its appear'Sk.ilful and refined cookery ance during the most glorious glarious epochs in history.' conqueror of 'Vatel 'Vatel is not not less famous than his master, master, the conqueror of Rocroi, and and if if glory glory is nothing but smoke, then then Antonin Antonin Carme Carme has bas made as much of it it as Napoleon.' 'To give life to ta beauty, the painter painter uses a whole whoJe range of of colours, the musician of of sounds, the cook of of tastes tastes - and it is indeed indeed remarkable remarkable that there there are seven seven colours, seven musical notes and seven tastes.' tastes.' Lucien Lucien Tendret Tendret also made the following following remarks illustratillustrating the importance importance of good cuisine cuisille in diplomatic diplomatie affairs: affairs: 'Political 'Political issues issues are are decided decided at at table. table. Talleyrand often creations of owed owed his his successes successes to to the the skilful sk.ilful creations of Antonin Car6me.' Carme.' 'At ambassador 'A t the time of the Congress Congress of Vienna, the ambassador (Talleyrand), said to (Talleyrand), taking taking leave leave of of Louis Louis XVIII, XVIII, said to him: o'Please "Please believe me, me, your Majesty, Majesty, I l need need saucepans more than written questions."' questions." , ambassador 'Monsieur assures us 'Monsieur Guizot Guizot assures us that that while he was am bassador in London, London, his rus cook was more useful useful to ta him politically politically than his secretaries.' secretaries,' advice, of axioms, He also gave the following ad vice, in the form ofaxioms, to his rus hosts and guests: given only 'To order a dinner only to order and and conduct conduct a 'To dinner is is givcn to fine gastronomes, of of delicate delicate and cultivated gastronomes, cultivated tastes. A skilful host a good cook.' is as rare as a gastronomes who 'One only dines well of true 'One weil at a t the homes of t rue gastronomes of spoils the loveliest of feel all ail the nuances. The least puffiness spolls faces, and and attention to detail creates perfection.' faces, perfection.' 'With dishes and can offer succulent dishes offer succulent 'With money, money, anyone anyone can courtesy kindness cannot be bought.' famous famous wines, wines, but courtes y and kindness wit 'To appetite eat, to make 'To make make people people who have no appctte make the wit lack these of those who have it sparkle, to of ta enable those who Jack qualities to science of of a this is supreme science qualities to find find them them is the the supreme - this gastronome-host.' gastronome-hosl.' seated comfortably and are not 'The gourmets, if if they chey are not seated and the food food for have no elbow raom, room, count both the wines and for nothing.' philosophy Lucien Tendret says: And to sum up his phlosophy 'French conversation was born in 'French in the salons of the eighthe Regent, from dining-rooms of the teenth century. From the dining-rooms Hnault, Baron Holbach and and Mme. Baron Holbach those of of President those President H~nault, and a society, society, certainly sceptical sceptical and emerged a Geoffrin, there emerged permeated with and that suave urbanity urbanity and impious, but but permeated impious, wilh suave which has since spread and enlightened courtesy which ingenious and of the the salient Europe, and and has has become one of throughout Europe, become one throughout civilisation.' characteristics of cha rac teri s tics 0 f modern ci vi lisa ti 0 n. ' point in his poem, Richepin makes makes a a practical Jean Richepin Jean practical point in his

A rable: Table:
y compris serrel lafamille, se serre! Est-on dix, y compris la famille. on se Est-on d l'tro;1 I'dtroit et sans tre Atre ftop cependant, et Mais pas trop II l'air aux aux coudes. et le droit coudes, el Il faut faut qu'on ait de "air gestes; I'on veul, bavardant, si l'on veut, de grands r;?estes; De faire en bavardant, Grignotis de profil,les mets SOnl sont indig~stes. indigestes. . Grignots profil, les mets
the family; sit sit closer together! 'We are ten, with the But not too closely: we don't want la to be be cramped, We must have elbow room, room, and and be able We To talk and and make gestures, if if we feel feel so incllned; inclined; Ta picking at and picking at food food is courting Sitting sideways and indigestion.' ' indigestion.
say la to he has has something ta to say return to to Lucien Tendret, he To return giving people who in giving think they they are doing wrong wrong in who think are doing reassure people table: to the the pleasures of the the ta themselves up to ble: gluttony as 'The casuists seven have classed classed glutlony as one one of of Ihe the seven casuists have 'The drinking to to sins, but if if it it is not not taioted tainted by the the vice of drink.ing deadly sins, deadly

APHORISMS APHORISMS AND AND AXIOMS AXIOMS

painting by D Tniers T6niers by D a painting The The Five Five Senses, Senses, a

inebriation or eating to excess, it de serves to be ranked with with be ranked deserves the theological virtues.' AndAnd 'Those who have a profound indifference to to the the pleasures a profound of the table are and unamiable.' generally gloomy, charmless charmless and are generally of Apothegms. - The phorisms of The a aphorisms couRMANDsAPoPHTEGMEs GOURMANDS Apothegms. APOPHTEGMES Much less less Brillat-Savarin the world. world. Much throughout the are known known throughout Brillat-savarin are of author of known are the author which the gastronomical apothegms apothegms which are the gastronomical philosophy of of the the Physiologie goftt has forth on on the the philosophy has set set forth Physiologie du du got table: Cookery. which and one one which arts, and the oldest oldest arts, 'Cooking is is one one of of the Cookery. 'Cooking has in civillife.' civil life.' service in important service most important us the the most has rendered rendered us 'The much as as least as as much at least is worth worth at men is 'The science which feeds feeds men science which the kill them.' them.' how to to kjll one which which teaches teaches how the one 'Once improvement for improvement instinct for the instinct 'Once fire fire was was discovered, discovered, the made place to it, and and dry it, to dry first place the first it, in in the to it, men bring food to made men bring food afterwards t on cook.' put fire to to cook.' on the the fire to pu afterwards to 'Cookery vessels fire-resisting vessels progress when great progress when fire-resisting made great 'Cookery made in or clay clay appeared.' appeared.' in bronze bronze or 'Meals, word, the word, we understand understand the in which which we sense in in the the sense 'Meals, in began species.' human species.' of the the hurnan age of with the the second second age began with 'In itis is find ourselves, ourselves, it now find in which which we we now 'In the society in the state state of of society difficult and on bread breadand lived solely solely on nation which which lived a nation to imagine imagine a difficult to vegeta bles. ' vegetables.' Gourmandism ism is t, ardent, isan anarden G ottmandism Gourmands.''Gourmand and Gourmands. G ourmandism and rational the whichflatter flatter the preference for things which for things habitual preference rational and and habituai taste.' taste.' 'From gourmandism, you look atgourmandism, point of look at view you of view 'From whatever whatever point it praise and andencouragement.' encouragement.' but praise deserves nothing nothing but it deserves 'Gourmandism society.' links uniting uniting society.' main links of the the main 'Gourmandism is isone one of 'If are thereare predestination, then thenthere gastronomes by by predestination, 'If there there are are gastronomes also some by bycircurnstance.' circumstance.' also sorne Taste. cannot say, it itcannot isto tosay, itsaction, action, that thatis inits 'Taste is issimple simple in Taste.'Taste react atonce.' once.' flavours at twoflavours react to to two 'Man's ofthe the andof textureand its texture palate, by ofits thedelicacy delicacy of 'Man's palate, by the various proof gives sufficient sufficient proof it,gives surround it, thatsurround membranes that various membranes of wasintended.' intended.' forwhich which ititwas functions for offunctions sublimity of of the thesublimity
37 37

proclaims itself 'Appetite proclaims itself by by aa digestion. 'Appetite and digestion. Appetite and Appetite feeling of of and a a feeling stomach, and in the the stomach, languor in of languor slight sensation sensation of slight tiredness.' tiredness.' the and the function, and mechanical function, 'Digestion is absolutely mechanical is an an absolutely 'Digestion with mill equipped equipped with as a a mill of as thought of can be be thought organs can digestive organs digestive sieves.' sieves.' linked with with must be be linked it must as a awhole, whole, it 'To understand digestion as understand digestion 'To and its its consequences.' consequences.' food and food which one which is the the one functions, is the bodily bodily functions, all the 'Digestion, of of ail 'Digestion, an of an mental state state of greatest influence on the the mental influence on the greatest exercises the exercises individual.' individual.' is in in while digestion digestion is people are bad temper temper while are in in aa bad 'Some people 'Sorne prosuggest proto suggest either to not the the time time either progress; it it is is therefore therefore not progress; jects or of them.' them.' favours of ask favours to ask or to jects quality and and prove that that the thequality 'Theory and both prove andexperience experience both 'Theory onwork.' work.' powerful influence influence on quantity of have aa powerful food have of food quantity copewith with the the adequatelycope cannot adequately mancannot 'A badly nourished man badly nourished 'A length of oftime.' time.' any length for any work for continuous work effort of of continuous effort the among the neverfound foundamong 'Obesity is isnever Thinness. 'Obesity and Thinness. Obesityand Obesity people have have thepeople wherethe ofsociety society where classesof theclasses or among among the savages or savages live.' tolive.' eatto theyonly onlyeat where they eat, and andwhere work to toeat, to towork isaa for men, men,but butititis greatdrawback drawbackfor 'Thinness is is not not aagreat 'Thinness women.' for women.' misfortune for dreadful dreadful misfortune introduced which, introduced meanssubstances substanceswhich, 'By foods onemeans foodsone Foods.'By Foods. restore andrestore digestion,and bydigestion, assimilated by canbe beassimilated stomach, can into into the thestomach, body.' human body.' lost by bythe thehuman energy lost the theenergy gaveto to qualitiesnature naturegave thequalities with the 'Wewere satisfiedwith 'We were not notsatisfied pretextof ofimproving improving thepretext underthe poultry;art in,and andunder artstepped stepped in, poultry; ofthem.' them.' martyrs of fowls, fowls, made made martyrs painting, and the andthe forpainting, isfor canvasis whatcanvas 'Poultry 'Poultryis isfor forcookery cookerywhat usboiled, boiled, servedto tous Itisisserved forcharlatans. charlatans.It Fortunatusfor cap ofFortunatus capof portions,with orwithout without withor orin inportions, wholeor roast, cold,whole orcold, roast,hot hotor success.' withequal equalsuccess.' sauce, alwayswith sauce,and andalways proofprohonourof thehonour contestthe France contest 'Three 'Threelands ancientFrance landsof ofancient andBresse.' Bresse.' Mansand poultry:Caux, LeMans Caux,Le ducing thebest bestpoultry: ducingthe giftsthat New thatthe theNew thebest bestgifts oneof ofthe 'Turkey 'Turkeyisisundoubtedly undoubtedly one

APHTONITUS APHTONITUS
the seven seven great cbefs chefs of Ancient APHTONITUS - One of tbe Greece. He invented the pudding. pudding.

World W orld has made to the 0 Id. ' Old.' 'Game provides the the delights delights of our table; it 'Game it is is healthy, rich, savoury food, food, excellent in in taste taste and and easy rich, savoury easy to to digest, digest, especially when young.' especially 'Under the direction of an able goes through able chef, game goes many skilful skilful modifications and and transformations, transformations, and and promany vides most most of of the the full-flavoured dishes vides dishes which which constitute constitute cuisine.' superlative cuisine.' 'The taste of partridge is not the same as that of a Prigord P6rigord partridge tha t of a Sologne Sologne partridge.' a 'If the the garden warbler warbler were were the the size size of of a a pheasant, 'If pheasant, it certainly cost as much as an an acre of land.' would most certainly 'The quail is the sweetest and the nicest of game birds. It It is an act of ignorance to serve it in any way except roasted.' glory only when woodcock is in its full glory when roasted roasted actually 'A woodcock actually before of the hunter; above ail, before the eyes of all, the hunter who shot it.' 'In the the hands hands of an an able able cook, cook, fish fish can 'In become an can become an inexhaustable source of delight.' exhaustable is the garden warbler of the water; the 'The smelt is the same smallness, the same high flavour, the same superiority.'
38

There were the name APICIUS by the name of were three three Romans Romans by - There genius, their Apicius. Ali All three were were famous, not not for their genius, virtues, or their great qualities, but for their gluttony and virtues, gastronomical art. achievements in the gastronomical achievements The first first lived lived under The under Sulla, the second under Augustus Sulla, the second under Tiberius, and the third under Trajan. It is and Tiberius, is the second most famous, and it is ofhim Apicius of him that Seneca, Seneca, Apicius who is the most Pliny, Juvenal Martial have spoken Pliny, Juvenal and Martial spoken so much. Athenaeus says sa ys that he spent immense immense sums to satisfy his gluttony and that of cakes which bear his name. tha t he invented several kinds of Seneca, who was bis his contemporary, contemporary, tells us that he ran a sort Seneca, 'good fare'. adds that Apicius, having got of school of 'good fare'. He adds debt, was at last forced to examine into heavy debt, examine the state of of his seeing he had only 250,000 Roman pounds affairs, and that, seeing (some authors forty million sesterces, sesterces, about about an authors say say fort left y million left (sorne income of of f80,000), 80,000), he poisoned himself, fearing that such a sum would not be enough for him to live on. ragofits which Apicius invented, of the ragots Pliny often speaks speaks of omnium altissimus altissimus gurges. and calls them nepotum omnium The third Apicius lived under Trajan. Having invented a secret method of preserving oysters, managed to deliver oysters, he managed Emperor, who was busy fighting sorne es to the Emperor, some very fresh on ones the Parthians at the time. given to The name Apicius was was not not only to cakes cakes but The but to only given several kind of sauces. of Coelius Apicius, There Apicius, a treatise There exists, under the name of (1a98); in Milan (1498); re culinaria, printed for the first De re first time tirne in De any critics the cri tics do not think, however, that it was written by byany named Apicius. Martin Lister produced a of the three men named De obsonus magnificent edition edition of of this this book entitld De obsonus et magnificent book entitled 1705), ofwhich of which condimentis, condimentis, sive de arte coquinaria coquinardc (London 1705), 125 copies were printed. printed. However, the first edition, which is undated, seems to be It was was printed in in Venice by than the the Milan edition. It older older than forty Bernardus de Vitali bus, and comprises fort y quarto pages, de Vitalibus, constitute Apicius's book. the first thirty-two thirty-two of which constitute a remarkable remarkable summary of the Dix DLx But the latest edition, a Bertrand Gugan livres livres de de cuisine cuisine d'Apicius d'Apicius is is that that of of Bertrand Gugan Ren Bonnel, Paris, 1933). 1933). (published by Ren it is interesting To return to interesting to to Marcus Gavius Apicius, it note sorne some of his his discoveries. discoveries. To To improve sows' sows' livers, livers, he note gave them honeyed wine fattened them dried figs, figs, gave them honeyed wine to them with dried warning. drink, then then suddenly slaughtered them them without without warning. drink, When camel was on the menu he only had the most delicate part served up - the heel. Did Imperial Rome have her gastronomes in the strictest word, and were were the illustrious illustrious personages, whose sense sense ofthis of this word, prowess table has been described described in history prowess at table history or legend, real On this this point Car6me, connoisseurs point Carme, connoisseurs of culinary matters? On of the history history of of ancient Rome, who made a profound study of was'fundamentally cookery was says that Roman cookery 'fundamentally barbaric'. barbaric'. named What the us of men named What the historians historians tell tell us of the the three three men leads us to agree with Carme. The Roman Roman table Apicius leads us to Car6me. The spectacular was certainly magnificent, in the spectacular certainly sumptuous and magnificent, all refined. sense, but it was not at ail at the the Apicius family, family, governed the Rome, Rome, at the time of the known. She whole world, at any rate the world as it was then known. laws to to distant provinces. From these these subdictated her laws provinces. From dictated her jugated provinces she great quantities quantities of various received great she received jugated sent her food products. products. Gallia her pork. pork. Africa food Gallia Narbonensis sent and Asia sent delectable foods Roman cooks, and foods which the the Roman Asia sent Greeks, prepared in lavish manner. trained by the Greeks,
ApoNocEroNs APONOGETONACEAE. APONOGETONACEAE. APONOGETONS - Flowering rush represented by one genus, Aponogeton family, represented Aponogeton. Their leaves water. rather like waterlilies. float on the surface of the water,

APPERT APPERT The Aponogeton Aponogeton distachyus distachyas is is widely widely cultivated cultivated in in the the The parts of temperate parts years now of Europe. Europe. For For sorne some years now it it has has bebetemperate come completely completely naturalised naturalised at Montpellier, where at Montpellier, where ils its come young shoots shoots are are eaten eaten and and calied called Cape Cape asparagus. asparagns. The The young plant are common names names for for this this plant are Cape Cape pond weed weed and and water water common hawthorn. hawthorn.
APOPHORETA given by by the the ancient ancient Romans Romans to to APOPHORET A- Name given gifts which the gifts guests for which the the host host made made to to his his guests for members members of of the their families. families. These gifts were These gifts were often great value. often of of great value. They They their precious dishes dishes or or vases which had had been at been used used at were mostly precious the feast. feast. Sometimes Sometimes the slaves who the slaves who served served at table were were also at table also the presented to guests. to the the guests. presented

APOTIIECA. APOTHCAlpornEcn- Roman name name ofa of a room, room, situated situated APOTHECA. under the the roof roof of of a a house, house, so so arranged arranged that that the the smoke smoke of of various fireplaces passed passed through it, with purpose of with the sole sole purpose of boiling down down the the famous famous Caecu wine to Caecubum to the the desired desired boiling bum wine consistency. syrupy consistency. to mature. This wine took at least fifteen years to
APPAREIL In French culinary culinary terminology terminology this this word word is is APPAREIL - In go into into the making making used to describe mixed preparations that go of dishes. dishes. For For example, example, the the following following terms terms are are used: of (souffi mixture); appareil appareil d souffl souffii (souffl (sponge appareil d biscuit biscuit (sponge appareil mixture); appareil (custard mixture), d crme crime renverse renversie (custard mixture), etc. etc. mixture);

APPELLATIONS D'ORIGINE According to to French APPELLATIONS - According legislation the label of the label of a a controlled controlled wine wine must must bear an legislation bear an appellation d'origine; that is to say the name of of the viticultural appellation area to which it belongs. d'origine are are divided divided into into two two categories: categories: Appellations d'origine contrdlie (A.O.C.) and and vins vins dlimits dilimitds de de appellation d'origine contrle qualiti suprieure (V.D.Q.S.). The supirieure (V.D.Q.S.). group The first first and and superior superior group qualit consists of viticultural areas of wines wines belonging belonging to to the the viticultural areas that consists that produce wines wines of great quality and and individuality, following traditional methods. methods. The The latter group of latter is is a a secondary secondary group traditional of controlled wines belonging to viticultural areas to viticultural areas that that have general quality while a reputation for for their general while not not proearned a ducing wines of of su such of the ducing ch individual characteristics as those of first group.

Nicolas Appert

APPERT - It is impossible to explain how so many people people (including the authors of the first edition of this dictionary) committed the the error of naming naming Frangois Franois Appert Appert in in this context, context, when when it ought ought to be Nicolas according to a - at least according short short report report in in I'Encyclopidie l'Encyclopdie universelle universelle du du XD( XIX" sicle siicle (1858 (1858 edition, published published eighteen eighteen years years after the the death death of Charles-Nicolas Appert). Charles-Nicolas His biography is is so vague that we prefer to repeat what the canners canners themselves themselves have to say about him. the About a a hundred hundred and and sixty sixt Y years years ago, the Frenchman Frenchman ago, the Nicolas Nicolas Appert Appert discovered discovered how to to preserve preserve food products products by the action action of of heat. the

The only only document document that that has has been been found found relating relating to to The Appert's civil civil state state is is his his death death certificate, certificate, although although we we do do Appert's know that that he he was was born born in in Chlons, Chdlons, in in the the Marne, Marne, in in 1750. 1750. know Whether it it was was Chlons-sur-Marne Chdlons-sur-Marne or or Chlons-sur-Vesle Chdlons-sur-Vesle Whether remains a a mystery. mystery. remains His father father was was a a wine wine merchant merchant in in the the Champagne region, Champagne region, His and Nicolas Nicolas began began work work with with him, him, corking corking bottles. bottles. and Then he he moved moved on learn the on to to learn culinary art the culinary art as as a acook cook at at the Then the court of of Christian Christian IV. IV. He He also also worked worked in in several several brasseries brasseries court private households. and private households. Finally Finally when when he he was was about about thirty thirty and (about 1780) years old 1780) he old (about he set set up up as as a a confectioner confectioner in in rue ruedes des years Lombards, Paris. Paris. Lombards, preparation of Appert became became deeply deeply interested interested in in the the preparation of Appert products. He food products. He soon soon realised realised the inadequacy and the inadequacy and disdisfood preservation, and advantages of of contemporary contemporary methods methods of of preservation, and advantages set himself himself the the task task of of investigating investigating new new ones. ones. set In 1810, 1810, in in order order to his invention to bring bring his invention to to the notice of the notice of the the In public, Appert published le Appert published le Livre Livre de de tous tous les les mnages mdnages ou ou public, pendant plusieurs plusieurs annes I'Art de de conserver conserver pendant anndes toutes l'Art toutes les les subsub('The Manual animales et stances animales vigitales ('The et vgtales Manual for stances for Every Every HouseHousehold or or the the Art Art of Preserving ail of Preserving all Varieties Varieties of hold of Animal Animal and and Vegetable Substances for Several Substances for Several Years'). Vegetable Years'). He wrote: wrote: 'My 'My method method is is not not a a vain vain theory; He theory; it it is is the the fruit fruit of late late nights, nights, much much deep deep thinking thinking and and research, research, and of and ininnumerable experiments.' experiments.' numerable probably Appert Most probably Appert intuitively Most recognised the intuitively recognised the destrucdestruc'ferments' that tive action action of of heat heat on tive on the the 'ferments' that alter alter animal animal and and possible to He realised substances. He vegetable substances. that if if it it were realised that were possible to destroy or attenuate the 'ferments' by or attenuate destroy the effect effect of of these heating these 'ferments' by heating sufficiently, and preventing other them sufficiently, and afterwards afterwards succeed succeed in in preventing other 'ferments' from from being 'ferments' being introduced introduced into into the the substance, substance, the the conservation of prolonged, if conservation of the the latter latter would would be be prolonged, if not not inindefinitely, at at least least for period. Although definitely, for a a very very long long period. Although this this disdiscoverywas pon scientific managed co very was not not based based u upon scientific theory, theory, Appert Appertmanaged (rule-of-thumb) methods through empirical through empirical (rule-of-thumb) perfect a methods to to perfect a system of preservation which of food food preservation principle is system which in in principle is little little difdifferent from ferent from that employed in processes that employed in manufacturing manufacturing processes today. Encouraged by Encouraged by official official approval, approval, Appert gave gave up up his his conconfectionery business business and fectionery and occupied occupied himself himself exclusively exclusively with with experiments; these proved the experiments; these at at length length proved validity of the validity of his his theories. ln 1794 1794 he settled settled in In in Ivry-sur-Seine. lvry-sur-Seine. In In 1804, 1804, with with the the help help of sorne some financial financial backing, he of he acquired piece of acquired a a piece of land land of of 4 4 (10 acres) hectares (10 hectares acres) at Massy in at Massy in Seine-et-Oise, Seine-et-Oise, and and built built a a factory. This This he equipped equipped with with what to to us us would would seem seem rather rather primitive machinery. He He employed employed about about fifty fifty workers. workers. Scientific Scientific controversies controversies arose arose over over Appert's Appert's discovery, discovery, and and it it was was not not until until Pasteur Pasteur arrived arrived on on the the scene scene that that a a satissatisfactory factory explanation was was reached. Massy Massy was destroyed destroyed by by the the Allies Allies in in 1814. 1814. practically penniless, Although old penniless, Appert old and and practically Appert did did not not give up. give up. In In 1817 l8l7 he he settled settled in in rue rue Cassette, Cassette, in in Paris, Paris, and and premises in managed managed to to obtain obtain premises in rue rue Moreau Moreau from from the the government. There There he he resumed the application application of his manumanuof his facturing processes on a facturing processes a large large scale. scale. The last years of his Iife, life, like his early years, years, are are something something of a a mystery. He He died poverty on died in in extreme extreme poverty I June on 1 June 1840. 1840. In In 1852, Chevallier-Appert Chevallier-Appert took up up where the the other other had had left left off. He He was was Appert's Appert's successor perfected Appert's successor and and he he perfected Appert's ideas. He had had the idea idea of putting canned foods foods in in the the autoautoclave (q.v.), which clave (q.v.), which up had been up to to then then had been used used for for entirely entirely different purposes. He raised the temperature to a different purposes. a high level. level. Since it was was necessary to to know the the temperature inside inside the the autoclave autoclave during during the the operation operation in preserve the in order order to to preserve the quality quality of the the canned canned foods, foods, Chevallier-Appert Chevallier-Appert devised devised a a pressure gauge as as weil. well.
39 39

APPETENCE APPETENCE

Calville Blanc apple

Reinette du Canada apple

(Pomona) Richared apple (Pomona) Richared apple

(Pomona) apple (Pomona) Stark Jaugrines apple Stark Jaugrines

which brings desire desire lppfrsNcE -- A APPETENCE. APPTENCE A feeling which for food; this is the first stage for appetite.
me for APPTIT name for chives chives in in French. French. (See APPf,TIT Common na - Common CHIVES.) APPETITE. define under the the term Appfrlr -- Psychologists define APPETITE. APPTIT natural.appetite cause us which instinctively cause natural,appetite the tendencies which to needs of the body. to satisfy the needs In physiology physiology appetite is difis defined defined as as sometrung something rather different from hunger. in reality reality is is nothing more than hunger. Hunger Hunger in the need which of pleasure which need to eat, whereas appetite is the lure of one experiences whilst about by a a particular whilst eating, brought about condition of the organism. The sensation at regular mealsensation of hunger, which develops at times people, sometirnes it is is not not sometimes disappears disappears if it in civilised civilised people, times in satisfied at the usual is stimulated stimulated by the the hour. The The appetite appetite is usual hour. sight and smell of food; bitter substances substances frequently awaken awaken lost appetite by releasing digestive secretions. digestive secretions. In certain psycruc psychic and cases, appetite appetite can can degenerdegenerand mental cases, ate into substances. offensive and and non-edible substances. into a a craving for offensive The means distaste is anorexia, anorexia, wruch which means distaste of appetite is The opposite ofappetite for food. APPIGRET Rabelais used used to to which Rabelais An old old French French word word which APPIGRET - An define juice, seasoning. seasoning. define gravy, BraW, juice,
poMME - AppIes APPLE. to are the fruit fruit of of a a tree tree belonging belonging to APPLE. POMME - Apples are the Rosaceae. the family Rosaceae. The are divided divided into into cooking cooking varieties of of apples apples are The numerous varieties and eating apples. apples. and eating The are: among the American varieties varieties are: dessert apples apples among The best best dessert Golden golden yellow yellow in in in colour, colour, truncated truncated in Delicious, golden Golden Delicious, shape, juice, very very tasty tasty fiesh, flesh, eaten eaten between between with a a delicate delicate juice, shape, with October Delicious and Starking Delicious and April; Red Red Delicious, Starking October and and April; Richared, red, varying shades shades of of dark dark red, Richared, truncated in in shape, in varying shape, in keeping keeping weil March. Among Among the varieties of French the varieties well until until March. of French origin yellow streaked Reine des reinettes, early early variety, variety, yellow origin are: are: Reine des reinettes, streaked with russet; yellowishrusset; Reinette Reinette du &t Canada, Canada, rough-skinned, rough-skinned, yellowishgreen green with with brown spots, mid-season mid-season variety variety keeps keeps weil well if if it it brown spots, has grown at has been at a a high high altitude; altitude; Reinette Reinette du du Mans Mans and and been grown Reinette late varieties Reinette Clochard, Clochard,late varieties both cultivated in in the the Loire Loire both cultivated valley. vallev.

particular Calville in shape shape irregular in Calville, in particular Calville Blanc, Blanc, irregular Calville, in pronounced 'shoul'shoulprominent with more or minent sides sides and or less less pro and pronounced ders', gradually disappearing, has sorne some adherents adherents still has disappearing, but ders', is is gradually but still on These different its very very delicate delicate Bavour. flavour. These different on account account of of its from pp lied from varieties well su supplied apples keep keep the the market market weil varieties of of apples production is September is important important French production May. French to April April or or May. September to qualitatively, and both quantitatively and is complemented complemented and qualitatively, and is both quantitatively by Italy and the Holland. During During the imported from from Italy and Holland. apples irnported by apples (the golden golden varieties season her excess excess (the varieties France exports exports her season France especially) also Imports are and Great Great Britain. Britain. Imports are also to Germany Germany and especially) to received from hemisphere in in April, April, May May and and from the the southern southern hemisphere June, French apples apples are are exhausted. exhausted. June, when when stocks stocks of of French The grape, is is one like the choicest dessert dessert our choicest The apple, apple, like the grape, one of of our fruits. It is is rich rich in in assimilable assimilable mineraIs minerals -- calcium, calcium, copper, copper, fruits. It iron, potassium -- and contains Vitamins Vitamins B B and contains magnesium and and potassium iron, magnesium preparation of and of are used in the the preparation Apples are and C, and tannin. tannin. Apples used in C, and numerous preserves, etc., in the manusweet dishes, dishes, preserves, etc., and and in the manunumerous sweet facture pastries and They and apple apple sugar sugar in in confectionery. confectionery. They facture of of pastries are give cider, pressed and cider, from from and used in the the alembic alembic to to give are also also pressed used in which Calvados. which is is derived derived Calvados. Baked pastry or DE normand. RABOTTES RABoTTES DE Bakd apples apples in in pastry or douiJIon douillon normand. poMMEs OU POMMES DOUILLoN NORMAND NoRMAND -- Choose big sound sound baking baking ou DOUILLON Choose big apples part containing apples and and core core them, containing them, to to remove remove the central part the central prethe pips. Make middle, to a circular circular incision incision round round the the rniddle, to preMake a the pips.

Baked pastry Baked apples apples in in pastry

40 40

APPLE APPLE
vent vent their their bursting. bursting. Fill Fill the the middle, middle, hollowed hollowed out out by by the the corer, corer, with with butter butter kneaded kneaded with wilh sugar sugar (and (and with wilh a a pinch pinch of of cinnamon, cinnamon, if if desired). desired).
Enclose Enclose eachapple each apple in in apiec,eof a piece ofLiningpaste(w Lining pas/e (see DOUGH), DOUGH), rolled rolled out oUi not nol too 100 thick. Ihick. Put Put a a little little circlet circlet of of paste paste (cut (eut out out with with a a fluted-edged fluted-edgcd cutter) culler) on on top top of of each each apple. apple. Brush Brush with with beaten egg egg and and score score the the outside oUlside of of the the apples apples lightly lightly with with a a beaten

knife. knife. Bake Bake in a a moderate moderate oven oyen from from 25 25 to to 30 30 minutes. minutes. Serve Serve piping piping hot. hot. Note. NOie. The apples apples can be be peeled pecled before before being being put put into into pastry. paslry. They can also be be cooked cooked first first as for Apples Apples bonne bonne femme (see below). below). In ln that that case case the the baking baking will will only only take take femme 15 15 minutes. minutes. Lining Lining paste paste can be be replaced replaced by by left-over left-over pieces pieces of of puff puff pastry. pastry. Apptes POMMES BoNNE BONNE FEMME FEMME - Make Make a light light Apples bonne bonne femme. femme. PoMMEs circular round the the middle middle of of some sorne baking baking apples, apples, and circular incision incision round core them. them. Put them them in a buttered buttered ovenproof ovenproof dish. Fill Fill the middle middle of of each apple with with a little butter butter mixed with with fine castor castor sugar. sugar. water into the Pour a few tablespoons tablespoons of ofwater the dish, bake bake gently gently in in the the oven oyen and serve in the same dish. dish. Apples Apples Bourdaloue. Bourdaloue. PoMMEs POMMES BouRDALoue BOURDALOUE - Poach apples, apples, as described in whole, who le, halved or quartered, in in syrup, syrup, as in the recipe for Apricots Apricols Bourdaloue Bourdaloue (see (see APRICOT). APRICOT). Apple butter, butter, marmalade marmalade - See See JAM, JAM, Apple Apple ielly; jel/y; Apple MARMALADE, MARMALADE, Appil, Apple marmalade. marmalade. some BEURRE Buttered apples. PoMMEs POMMES AU BEURRE - Peel and core sorne water with minutes in boiling boiling water with baking apples and parboil for 2 minutes baking put them it. Drain the apples, put of lemon lemon juice juice added to il. a dash of fine sugar, dish, sprinkle with in a a buttered wilh fine in buttered ovenproof dish, and of water (or light syrup) and moisten with a few tablespoons tablespoons ofwater oven. cook gently in the oyen. cro0ton of bread a round croton apple on a Serve each apple bread which has a few tablethe pan juices.with fried in in butter. been fried butter. Dilute the juices with a spoons of water, add a little butter butter and pour over the apples. Peel and and PoMMEs AU AU CHAMBERTIN cHAMBERTn Apptes au chambertin. POMMES Apples - Peel Chambertin in sweetened Chambertin Poach them in apples. Poach core several apples. pint, li (6 oz. per per pint, l| cups g. sugar per litre (6 300 g. allowing 300 wine, allowing in this this syrup. syrup. cool in per quart) quart) of wine. apples 10 to cool Leave the the apples wine. Leave per the syrup syrup by down the a limbale. timbale. Boil down a fruit dish or a Arrange in a pour over apples. over the the apples. half, leave until cold, then pour half, See CHARLOTTE. CHARLOTTE. charlotte Apple charlotte - See See COMPOTE. COMPOTE. compote Apple compote - See poMMEs COND the Prepare as as described described in the coNpf -- Prepare Apptes Cond. Cond6. POMMES Apples (see APRICOT). Condi (see recipe for for Apricols Apricots Cond recipe lu r. LA u CRhlE cniun AU PoMMEs au kirsch. kirsch. POMMES Apples il i la la crme crbme au Apples vanilla-flavoured in a a vanilla-flavoured cook the the apples apples in Peel, core core and and cook rnscs -- Peel, KIRSCH and arrange arrange Drain, dry dry and in the the syrup. syrup. Drain, cool in syrup. Leave kave 10 to cool syrup. (or on At the the glass goblets goblets (or a fruit fruit dish). dish). At on a in glass individually in them individually them sweetened fresh cream, cream, sweetened half-whipped fresh moment top with half-whipped top with last moment last with kirsch. flavoured with with sugar sugar and and flavoured with can be be topped topped above, can prepared as as described described above, Apples, prepared Note.Apples, NOIe. anisette, such as as anisette, various liqueurs, such with various with cream cream ftavoured flavoured with with etc. liqueur, rum, rum, etc. raspberry liqueur, chartreuse, raspberry cassis, chartreuse, bndictine, cassis, bndictine, (apple pallcakes). pancakes). CRPES cnBprs apples (apple wift apples Cr6pes stuffed strffed wilb Crpes poMM.Es - Prepare (q.v.) in in the the usual usual crdpes (q.v.) the crpes AUx POMMES rounnfns AUX FOURRES - Prepare the (see saace (see Apple sauce with concenlrated concentrated Apple manner and and coat coat them them with manner below). below). Put them them on on aa in four. four. Put pancakes or them in fold them or fold Roll the the pancakes Roll quickly glaze quickly and glaze icing sugar sugar and with icing baking sheet, sheet, sprinkle sprinkle with baking napkin. a folded folded napkin. on a in the the oyen. oven. Serve Serve on in pannequets In in called pannequels are usually usually called Nole. Stuffed Stuffed crpes cr)pes are NOIe. French. French. or halved or Poach halved PoMMEs -- Poach AUx POMMES Apple eroOte. cro0te. CROTE cno0rn AUX Apple prepare as as and prepare syrup, and quartered apples in vanilla-flavoured vanilla-flavoured syrup, apples in quartered (see APRICOT). APRICOT). for Apricol Apricot crOle crofite (see recipe for in the the recipe described described in poMMEs FIGARO gives the the Gilbert glves Philas Gilbert FIcARo -- Philas Figaro. POM.\lES Apples Figaro. Apples

vanilla vanilla bean bean and and enough enough milk milk (previously (previously boiled) boiled) to to cover coyer them them completely. completely. Simmer Simmer gently gently for for 45 45 to to 50 50 minutes. minutes. 'Core 'Core and and peel peel 10 10 medium-sized medium-sized apples. apples. Cook Cook them them in in a a light light syrup, syrup, strongly strougly flavoured fiavoured with with vanilla; vanilla; it it is is enough enough for for the the pulp pulp just just to to be be softened. softened. 'Shred 'Shred about about 15 15 almonds almonds and and roast roast them them until until they they go go slightly slightly yellow yellow (not (not brown). brown). Add Add to to them them 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 o2.,3 oz., 3

following following recipe: recipe: 'Scald 'Scald 650 650 g. g. (l+ (l-l: lb.) lb.) chestnuts, chestnuts, remove remove the the shells shells and and the the inner inner grey grey skin, skin, put put them them into into a a pan pan with with a a

tablespoons) tablespoons) coarsely coarsely crumbled crumbled marrons marrons glacis. glacs. 'Make 'Make a a cream with wilh 150 150 g. g. (5 (5 oz., oz., 3 ~ cup) cup) castor castor sugar' sugar, 4 4 egg egg yolks, yolks, 11 tablespoons tablespoons (2 (2 tablespoons) tablespoons) flour flour and and 4 4 dl. dl. (} ct pint, pint, scant seant 2 2 cups) cups) vanilla-flavoured, vanilla-flavoured, boiled boiled milk. milk. After After boiling boiling this this cream cream for for I 1 minute, minute, remove remove from from the the heat heat and and incorporate incorpora te 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) butter. butter. Do Do not not allow allow to to boil boil again. again. Rub Rub the the chestnuts chestnul~ through through a a sieve, sieve, put put this this puree pure intoa into a saut6 saut pan, pan, and and add add 125 125 g. g. (4 (4 oz-,l oz., 1 "up) cup) the castor sugar sugar and and l+ It dl. dl. (t (i pint, pint, J 1cup) cup) cream. cream. Stir Stir on on the fire tire for for 2 2 minutes, minutes, and and spread spread on on a a dish. dish. 'Place on this this chestnut chestnut puree, pure, pour pour 'Place the the well-drained well-drained apples apples on the the cream cream over over them, them, and and sprinkle sprinkle with with the the almond almond and and chestnut mixture.' mixture.' Apples Apples ffamb6 flamb au au kirsch kirsch (or (or other other liqueurs). liqueurs). PoMMES POMMES There are rrmrmfrs FLAMBES AU AU KIRscH KIRSCH - There are two two ways ways of of preparing preparing this Ihis dish. dish. a light, apples, peel 1. cooking apples, 1. Core cooking peel them them and and poach poach in in a light, timbale syrup. Drain vanilla-flavoured vanilla-flavoured syrup. Drain them, them, put put into into a a silver silver timbale glass dish. Sprinkle with or or an an ovenproof aven pro of china china or or glass dish. Sprinkle with kirsch, kirsch, just before serving. heat, set alight heat, and and set alighl just before serving. a buttered apples into and cored cored apples 2. Put 2. Put the the peeled peeled and into a buttered dish. dish. slowly in and bake and melted sugar and Sprinkle with Sprinkle with sugar melted butter, butter, and bake slowly in the oyen. oven. an ovenproof or an a silver timbale or silver timbale apples to Transfer the Transfer the apples to a ovenproof just alight just and set set alight glass dish, with kirsch, dish, sprinkle sprinkle with china or or glass china kirsch, and before serving. alight with with brandy, set alight also be be set can also Note. Apple Apple flamb flamb6 can NOIe. brandy, quetsche, rum, any other other rum, or or any Calvados, quetsche, raspberry eau-de-vie, Calvados, content. alcohol content. a high-degree high-degree alcohol liqueur with with a liqueur FLAN. TART, FLAN. See TART, Apple flan - See (sweet\ fritters. Dessert (sweel) FRITTERS, Dessert fritters See FRITTERS, Apple fritters Apple fril/ers. - See r'rup6Rlcl.e,ctss A L'IMPRAPoMMEs GLACES glace Il I'imperatrice. POMMES Apples glac i l'impratrice. Apples poached in well in syrup syrup and and weil apples, poached TRIcE - Using Using dessert dessert apples, TRICE d for Peaches Peaches prepare as recipe for in the the redpe as described described in drained, prepare drained, (see PEACHES). PEACHES). I' impir at ice (see l'impratrice cut apples, eut Peel tart tart apples, gratin6. POMMES cnlrrx6ns - Peel PoMMES GRATINES Apple gratin. Apple keeping sYruP, keeping vanilla-flavoured syrup, in vanilla-flavoured quarters, and cook in and cook into quarters, into and dry. dry. Drain and firm. Drain fairly firm. them fairly them sauce apple sauce layer of of apple a layer on a dish on in an an ovenproof ovenproof dish Arrange in Arrange (see CHARLOTTE, Apple prepared as CHARLOTTE, Apple as for for a a charlotte charlotte (see prepared sprinkle on top, top, sprinkle macaroons on crushed macaroons some crushed Scatter sorne charloue). Scatter charlolle). slow oyen. oven. in a a slow the top top in brown the and brown melted butter, butter, and little melted with a a little with quarters and and cut into into quarters also be be eut can also apples can this dish dish apples .l/ote. For For this NOie. syrup. poached in in syrup. being poached instead of of being in butter, butter, instead cooked in cooked

l|

JELLIESAND JELLlES. See JAMS JAMS AND Apple jelly - See ApplejeUy A LA LA PoMMEs AUx POMMES MoussE AUX la Chantilly. Chantilly. MOUSSE d la mousse Il Apple mousse Apple vanilla-flavoured thick, vanilla-flavoured fine, thick, a very very fine, Prepare a cHANTILLv -- Prepare CHANTILLY it on ice, (see below). and whisk whisk il on ice, sauce and Cool the the sauce Apple sauce sauce (see below). Cool Apple sure cream, making making sure thick cream, fresh thick adding to to it it a a few few tablespoons tablespoons fresh adding glass into glass its consistency. Pour into lose its consistency. Pour not lose mixture does does not that the the mixture that piling it in a a dome. dome. it up up in goblets or fruit dish, dish, piling or a a fruit goblets stiff. whisked stiff. cream, whisked whipped cream, with vanilla-ftavoured vanilla-flavoured whipped Top with Top lux rounnfn AUX oMsl-errr FOURRE normande. OMELETIE i la la normande. Apple omelette omelette Apple poMMEs DITE in the the Make the the omelette omelette in A LA LA NORMANDE NoRMANon -- Make otrn POMMES Just before before sugar. Just with sugar. sweetened with eggs sweetened manner, using using eggs usual manner, usual sauce Apple sauce concentrated Apple with concentrated omelette wilh filI the the omelette folding, fill folding, in peeled, diced, cooked in diced, cooked (see bdow) apples, peeled, with tart taft apples, or with below) or (sec or with with apple sauce, sauce, or with aa tittle little apple mixed with and mixed and sugar, sugar, and butter and butter cream. fresh cream. thick fresh thick

4l 41

APPLE-CORER APPLE-CO RER

Arrange the the omelette omelette on on a a long long dish. dish. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with sugar sugar Arrange glaze with andglaze glazing iron with a aglazing iron or or with with aasalamander. salamander. and poMMES- Tbis pectin. JUS juice, which Apple pectin. rus DE DE POMMES which has has aa Apple - This juice, strongly viscous viscous consistency, consistency, is is used preparing Apple used for for preparing Appte strongly jelly (see (see JAMS JAMS AND AND JELLIES). JELLIES). je/ly jellies made It is is also preparing many also used used for for preparing many other other jellies made of of It fruit with with too too higb high a a water water content; content; without without su such addition an addition fruit ch an jellies these jellies would would not not have have the the desired desired consistency, consistency, and and these would run run the the risk risk of fermenting. of ferrnenting. would juice does Added in proportions, apple in the the rigbt right proportions, apple juice does not not alter alter Added the flavour flavour of of other other fruit. fruit. the To obtain obtain about (4| pints, juice, about 21 litres (4!pints, 51 2] litres pints) apple 5] pints) apple juice, To cut 36 36 sound sound apples quarters, without apples in in quarters, peeling or without peeling or coring coring cut peel and them, as as both both the the peel provide a pips provide and the great deal the pips agreat deal of of them, mucilaginous matter. matter. Put Put them them in pan with in a a copper copper pan with 2 2 litres litres mucilaginous (3| pints, pints, 41 pints) water. 4{ pints) paniioseiy water. Seal (hermetically, Seal the the pan (31 closely (hermetically, possible) and if possible) and cook cook on (not too on sustained sustained heat heat (not too brisk) brisk) until until if quarters become the apple apple quarters become soft soft enough enough to 'give' easily to 'give' easily when when tbe pressed with with a a finger. finger. pressed Pour the the fruit fruit into into a a muslin muslin c10th cloth fixed fixed over over a a bowl bowl and and Pour juice will leave for for sorne some time; time; the the juice will drip drip througb. through. Do press Do not not press leave juice can fruit itself in the fruit in order order to to hurry process. The hurry the the process. The juice can be be tbe used as as indicated in in various various recipes. recipes. used The residue, residue, i.e., i.e., the apple apple pulp left behind, behind, can can be be used used for for The preparing Apple (se,e below) sauce (see paste, and Apple sauce below) or or paste, and for for various various preparing sweet flans, flans. loaves loaves and and souffls. souffi6s. sweet pie Apple pie See PIE. Apple - See pudding Apple pudding See PUDDING. PUDDING. Apple - See poMrrrrs GRATINES Apples witb with rice. rice. POMMES cn.lrrufrs AU AU RIZ Rrz -- Prepare Apples (4 oz., ig. (4 125 g. (see RICE). cup) rice rice as as for for Dessert rice rice (see RICE). Put Put 125 ! cup) it into into an an ovenproof ovenproof dish dish in in layers, layers, alternating g. alternating with with 225 225 g. it (8 oz.) oz.) apples, apples, sliced sliced and and cooked cooked in in butter. butter. Smooth Smooth the (8 of the top rice layer, layer, and coyer quarters, cover with 10 l0 apple quarters, surface of in butter. butter. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with crusbed crushed macaroons and and a a cooked in tablespoon ofmelted of melted butter, and brown the top. Serve Serve in in the the same dish, with kirsch-fla kirsch-flavoured SAUCE), sa me dish, voured lpricot Apricol sauce (see SA UCE), separately. served separa tely. poMMEs MERINGUES Apples with rice rice and and meringue. meringue. POMMES MsnNcu6ns AU lu Apples with Rlz apple quarters in in vanilla-flavoured vanilla-flavoured syrup, syrup, or RIZ - Poach apple cook them in butter. Proceed described for Apricols Apricots wilh with Proceed as described rice and meringue APRICOT). meringue (see APRICOT). poMnaes Apple la normande. normande. BoRDURE i, LA rA, Apple dng ring i la BORDURE oe DE POMMES NoRMANDE NORMANDE - Peel, Peel, core and halve balve the apples, and cook them in vanilla-flavoured cool in in the syrup, then vanilla-flavoured syrup. Leave to cool drain on a flat fiat sieve until they are dry. Prepare CUSTARD, Vanilla euslard), crme moulie moule (see (see CUST ARD, Vani//a Prepare a crime custard), flavouring flavouring with I 1 to to 2 tablespoons tablespoons Calvados Calvados (applejack), and cook it bain-marie (q.v.) in a plain ring mould. mould. When it it rn in a bain-marue is is cold, turn tum out the mould onto a dish. Fill the middle with the dry apple halves, piling piling them up into a dome. Decorate with with firmly firmly whipped whipped cream cream piped piped through through a a forcing-bag forcing-bag with a fluted nozzle. Serve with Calvados-flavoured Apricol Calvados-flavoured Apricot sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). sauce (see Apple ring Brillat-Savarin. BoRDURE BORDURE DE poMMES POMMES BRTLLATBRILLATSAVARIN SAVARIN - Fill Fill a savarin savarin (q.v.), (q.v.), steeped steeped in in syrup syrup and flavoured flavoured with witb rum, rum, with stewed apples which whicb have been mixed with rum-flavoured rum-fiavoured confectioner's confectioner's custard custard (see (see CREAMS, CREAMS, French French pastry paslry cream). cream). Poach Poach apple halves halves in vanilla-flavoured vanilla-fiavoured syrup, drain drain well, weil, and and coat coat with with reduced reduced apricot apricot pulp. pulp. Place Place these these on top top of of the savarin fresh walnuts, savarin and decorate decorate with with halves ha Ives of offresh walnuts, crystallised crystallised cherries of angelica. angelica. Serve Serve with with rum-flavoured rum-flavoured cherries and and lozenges lozenges of custard. custard. Apple RISSOLES DE DE poMMEs POMMES - Roll Roll out a piece piece of Apple rissoles. rissoles. Rrssolrs Puff Puff pastry paslry (see (see DOUGH) DOUGH) and and cut into little little circles circJes 8 to to 10 10 cm. cm. (3 (3 to to 4 4 inches) inches) in in diameter. diameter. Put Put a a tablespoon tablespoon of of highly highly concentrated Apple sauce sauce (see (see below), below), flavoured flavoured with with kirsch kirsch concentrated Apple (or (or any any other other liqueur), liqueur), in in the the middle middle of of each each circle. Fold the the pastry to toenclose enclose tbe thefilling filling completely, completely, and andseal sealthe pastry theedges, edges, moistening tbem with water. them with water. moistening Justbefore before serving, serving, fry fry in in smoking-hot smoking-hot deep deepfat. Just fat. Drain Drain the rissoles rissoles and and arrange arrange them them on folded napkins. the on folded napkins. Serve Serve kirsch-flavoured Apricot (seeSAUCE). Apricot sauce sauce separately separately (see kirsch-flavoured SAUCE). (or other Apple (or other fruit) fruit) rissoles rissoles can prepared using canalso also be be prepared Apple using paste, or lining paste, or ordinary ordinary brioche brioche dough, dough, and and can Iining can be be made made in various various shapes. shapes. in poMMEs - Cook Apple sauce. sauce. MARMELADE MARMELADEDE DEPOMMES quartered Apple - Cook quartered apples in inaalittle little water water until until soft. soft. Pass Passthrough through aastrainer. apples strainer. Add Add pinch of of salt salt and and enough enoughsugar sugar to aa pinch to sweeten. sweeten. Boil Boildown down until until juice improves thick. A A squeeze squeezeof of lemon lemon juice thick. improves the thefiavour. flavour. poMMES - Prepare Apple souffl. soufr6. SOUFFL souFFLf AUX Atrx POMMES Apple asdescribed described - Prepare as in the the recipe recipe for for fruit fruit souffls, pulp and in souffi6s, using apple pulp using apple and cream. cream. (See SOUFFLS, SOUFFLES, Sweet Sweet souffis.) (See souffiis.)

APPLE-CORER. VIDE-POMMES vmn-poMMEs -- Tube-shaped APPLE-CORER. Tube-shaped implement implement for taking taking the the cores cores out out of for of apples. apples. APPRET -- In In French French cookery APPR};T cookery this this word word means means aa finished finished preparation. culinary preparation. culinary

APRICOT. ABRICOT ABRrcor -- Fruit APRICOT. Fruit of apricot tree, of the the apricot tree, brought brought from Armenia Armenia into into Italy from Italy but but not not widely widely k.nown known in in Europe Europe until the until the fifteentb fifteenth century. century. justly famous The musk musk apricot, The apricot, justly famous for for its its succulent succulent flesh, flesh, is found found in in the the south south of is of France, France, Algeria Algeria and and Spain. Spain. In Auvergne, Auvergne, another another much In much prized prized variety variety of of apricot apricot is is cultivated for for tbe quality of the high high quality cultivated jam which produced from which is is produced ofjam from it. it. Among the the best varieties of Among of apricot best varieties apricot is is clingstone, clingstone, a a species species of apricot apricot with with white white flesh of flesh wbich which adheres adheres to to the the stone. It has has stone. It a somewhat somewhat tart a tart flavour. flavour. Peach Peach apricot, apricot, a a choice choice fruit, fruit, is is much sought sought after after for much for the the delicacy delicacy of of its its flesh; flesh; it it is is fragrant, fragrant, juicy and and sweet. juicy sweet. Apricots are Apricots are one one of of the pdtisserie. most used fruits most the fruits used in in ptisserie. They are are used Tbey in a used in a number number of preparations, including of preparations, including sweet sweet courses and and confectionery. courses confectionery. They They also also make make excellent excellent tarts, tarts, as as well as weIl as delicious compotes compotes and and jellies. Compotes can can be be made made from green preserved preserved apricots, from green apricots, which peeled before being which should should be be peeled being bottled.
Varieties of apricots apricots (Ptpiniire G (Ppinire G De/bard) Delbard) The early Boulbon Boulbon apricot

apncots Luizet apricots Luizet

Nancy peach peach apricot apricot Nancy

42 42

APRICOT APRICOT
Apricots Apncots iil I'ancienne. l'ancielllle. ABRIcors ABRICOTS A t'lNctBNNs L'ANCIENNE - Halve Halve large large apricots, apricots, remove rem ove the the stones, stones, and and poach poach in in vanillavanillaflavoured of sponge sponge cake cake soaked soaked l'lavoured syrup. Arrange Arrange on on a a layer layer of in and coated coated with with a layer layer of of apple apple sauce. sauce. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with in rum rum and chopped in the the chopped almonds, almonds, sugar and and a a little little melted melted butter. butter. Put Put in oven oyen to to set. Serve Serve with apricot apricot jam jam diluted in in a little lillle water, water, strained strained and and laced !aced with with rum. r\lm. Apricot Apncor barquettes barquettes - See BARQUETTES. BARQUEITES. Apricot Apricot bombe. bombe. BoMBE BOMBE ABRIcoTINE ABRICOTll\.'E - Line Line a mould mould with with chocolate ice cream. Fill fil! with with Mousse Mousse (bombe\ (bombe) mixture (see (see chocolate ice ICE ICE CREAMS CREAMS AND AND ICES), fCES), flavoured flavoured with with apricot brandy brandy pure. or apricot pure. Apricot Apricot bouchdes. bouches. soucH6Es BOUCHES i L'.nnnlcot L'ABRICOT - These cakes can be made made with with either Genoese Genoese or sponge batter, batter, and are can be filled and coated coated with with apricot apricot jam. jam. Ingredients.250 Ingrediems. 250 g. (9 (9 oz.,generous OZ., generous cup) cup) fine fine sugar, sugar, 8 8 whole whole eggs, eggs, 200 g. (7 oz.,l| OZ., li cups) sieved flour, 200 g. (7 (7 oz., I ~ cup plus 2 2 tablespoons) tablespoons) best best butter, a a small glass of kirsch or rum. Method. Melhod. Beat Beat the sugar sugar and the the eggs in a copper bowl on a low heat, or or over over hot water. water. When the mixture mixture becomes pale, pale, light and frothy, blend in carefully carefully the sieved flour and the melted butter (to (to which which the Ihe chosen chosen flavouring flavouriog has has been melted butter added). added). Pour Pour the mixture mixture into into shallow shallow round round moulds (cake (cake or muffin tins) filling filliug up to three-quarters. Cook for about 20 cool. When minutes in a slow oven. oyen. Turn out and allow a/1ow to ta cool. a thin sharp quite bouche in half with a sha rp knife, knife, qui te cold, eut cut each bouchde kirsch-flavoured ta avoid crumbling crumbling the sponge. Spread with kirsch-ftavoured to bouchies together the bouches sandwich the jam, then then sandwich together again. apricot jam, jam and all and coat the sides ail Brush with concentrated apricot jam round with chopped roasted almonds. almonds. Decorate Decorate the the tops glaal cherry. a glac with half a Cook 16 I. ABRICOTS mntcors BoLIRDALoTJE Bourdaloue l. BOURDALOUE Apricots Bourdalure - Cook Remove, vanilla-flavoured syrup. Remove, light vanilla-flavoured halves in in a light apricot halves two-thirds a shallow ovenproof dish two-Ihirds in a drain and and arrange in 2 egg in milk milk and and bound with semolina cooked in filled filled wilh bound with with 2 semolira pudding). SEMOLINA, English semo/ina pudding). yolks (see SEMOLlNA, sprinkle Coyer Cover the apricots with a light layer of semolina, sprnkle of a teaspoon teaspoon of and a wlh with the crumbs of 2 crushed macaroons and oven for a few minutes fine powdered sugar. Put in a very hot aven to glaze the top. to jam (apricot jam sauce (apricot and kirsch kirsch sauce with an apricot and Serve wilh an apricot which the the apricots apricots were in which syrup in with the the syrup down with thinned thinned down a tablespoon of kirsch). and laced with a cooked, strained and BouRDALour -- Cook Cook II. ABRICOTS lnnlcors BOURDALOUE Apricots Bourdaloue Bourdaloue ll. on a a layer of of in syrup, halve them, and place on apricots lightly in in an an ovenproof ovenproof 1-1'I7Y10',nt7Y1P cream cream (see FRANGIPANE) in Frangipane flan shell. shell. dish or or on on a a flan dish and butter, and and melted melted butter, macaroons and with crushed crushed macaroons Sprinkle with Sprinkle and kirsch sauce sauce as as glaze in an apricot apricot and Serve with an in the the oyen. oven. Serve glaze above. above.
(apricot comftts). ABRIcors comfits). ABRICOTS apricob (apricot or crystallised crystallised aprlcots Candied Candied or size. of unifonn uniform size. firm white apricots, apricots, of very firm Choose very - Choose the stalk. stalk. end to to the at the the opposite end a ligbt light incision at Make a full of cold of cold a ume, time, in a copper pan full few at at a Put them. them, a a few Put water, are ""'''''M.I",t,,..hl completely covered. Place the pan water, so so Ihat that they they are the surface, surface, rise to to the as the apricots apricots rise low l'lame. As saon soon as a low flame. As over over a perforated spoon and feel feel spoon and with a a perforated the water with take them them out out of of the take this is is the the softened; this thoroughly softened; see if if they they are are thoroughly them la to see them operation. blanching operation. Ul"',"'w,WlI!', which water, which 12 hours hours in in cold cold watcr, for 12 apricots for Soak the apricots hours. should be be changed changed every every 2 2 hours. should water, to l.i lf cups water, sugar to I cup cup sugar syrup: 1 Prepare the the following following syrup: Prepare this SUGAR). Pour this 18" by a syrup gauge (see SUGAR). to 18 by a boiled boiled ta put have becn been put which have the drained apricots, which syrup over over the boiling boiling syrup high pan. Bring over a a high boil over Bring to to the the boil in the back in the copper copper pan. back flame. Rame.
coNFITs CONFITS 43 43

Decant Decant the the apricots apricots and and syrup syrup into into an an earthenware earthenware bowl bowl and and leave leave overnight. overnight. Next drain the the apricots apricots and and boil bail the the syrup syrup (it (it should should Next day, day, drain not be above above l2o 12~ on on the the syrup syrup gauge). Add Add + t cup sugar, and and not be bring ISO on on the the syrup gauge. When it is boiling, add add bring up up to to 18' the the apricots, apricots, bring bring again again to to the boil, and return to the earthenware is called called 'grving 'giving a a dressing'.) dressing'.) ware bowl. bowL (This (This operation is Continue to give give a a dressing dressing in in this this manner manner every every other other day. day. Continue to When by 6' 6c each each time. time. Add Add sugar sugar When boiling, boiling, bring bring the the syrup up up by and and boil boil down down when when there there is too too much much sYruP, syrup, which which must, must, however, however, completely completely cover caver the the fruit fruit each each time. time. When it comes up up to to 30' 30~ (average (average syrup syrup density) - that that is, is, When it after after the tbe third third dressing dressing - do do not not bring bring it il up up by more more than than 4o, 4 and and give give the the dressings dressngs only only every 3 days. Proceed in in this manner 36 (moderately (moderately thick). thick). manner until uoti! the syrup reaches 36' Stone the apricots by by inserting inserting a a copper copper needle needle at at the the stalk end and pushing the the stone stone towards towards the the incision incision made made at at the the beginning of the operation. operation. Some Sorne of of the the apricots may may not not look as good as damaged as the rest, rest, perhaps perhaps by being slightly damaged during the stoning Cut these these into into small pieces pieces and and stoning process. process. Cut stuff them into the the rest of of the the apricots apricots to to keep them them in in a a round an earthenware bowl. round shape. Lay them in in an Bring the syrup to the the boil, bail, check the degree degree (36'), (36'), and and pour pour it, iL, still boiling, over the apricots. Leave Leave to to cool. cool. Spoon Spoon the apricots apricots and syrup into into jars jars and cover with with greaseproof greaseproof paper, as you would would jam. jam. Keep the jars in in a a cool, dry dry place. place. apricot comfits in Candied apricots or or apricot in brandy. brandy, ABRIcors ABRICOTS apricots of Choose very small, firm coNFITs A CONf1TS t'eAU-or-vIEL'EAU-DE-VlE - Choosc firm apricots of as described uniform unifonn size. sue. Blanch Blanch them them as described in in the the recipe recipe for for cold water candied apricots above. Soak them an hour, hour, candied them in in cold water for for an syrup, which drain, and put them them in syrup, which should be be brought up to to at this the syrup at 25'(see them in the Ihs degree for 25 (see SUGAR). Leave them jars. Fill put them into and put 4 days, days, then drain, and inta preserving preserving jars. Fill with the following mixture: withthe (lf, pints, pints, I litre candied, 1 in which the Syrup in the fruit fruit was was candied, litre (Ii Syrup generous quart). (lf pints, pints, generous generous litre (li of 90", I tasteless, of90", Neutral l litre Neutral alcohol, tasteless, quart). quart). pod, or vanilla essence essence or lI teaspoon teaspoon vanilla of vallilla vanilla pad, Add a piece of per 2 litres 2 litres or kirsch kirsch per cup) rum or I dl. scant ~ or 1 dl. (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant or I cup) jars ($ pints, quarts) liquid. well. When When the the jars Mix weIl. pints, generous generous 2 liquid. Mix 2 quarts) or with with tops, or with their their special special tops, them with have been filled, filled, seal seal tbem cork lids. humiprotected both from heat heat and and humiboth from in a cool place, protected Keep n ready for for use. use. fruit will will he be ready the fruit At the end end of one month the dity. At (r, (petit fours). nnntcors ( fous). ABRICOTS brandy (petit in brandy apricots ln Caramel IIprCots Caramel preserved apricots apricots as as Drain the preserved cARAMET AU CARAMEL L'EAU-DE-vIE) AU L'EAU-DE-VIE) - Drain below). apricots (see below). for Cryszallised Crystallised apricols recipe for in the described in the recipe descrihed one by dip them, one by gum arabic, powdered gum arabic, then then dip in powdered Roll them them in Roll (see SUGAR). SUGAR). stage (see crack stage in sugar cooked cooked to to crack one, in one, marble slab, slab, and and slightly oiled on a a slightly oiled marble carefully on Space them them carefully Space paper cases. cases. quite dry, put them into flulcd fluted paper them into when they they are are quite when Fruit charJol/es. charlottes. Apricot charlotte charlotte Apricot - See CHARLOTTE, Fruit Halve the the apricots, apricots, coLBERT -- Halve ABRIcors COLBERT Colbert apricots. apricots. ABRICOTS Colbert light syrup fruit in in a a light the fruit and poach the remove the the stones, stones, and remove gently l'rom to (flavoured with from 8 to Simmer genlly with vanilla, if desired). Simmer (ftavoured fruit. Cool. ripeness of of the Cool. the fruit. on the the ripeness 10 rnjnutes, minutes, depending on 10 a fcw few in a a fruit fruit dish; dish; add add a apricots in To serve, serve, arrange arrange the apricots To pour it it over over the fruit. syrup and the fruit. the syrup and pour kirsch to to the drops of of kirsch drops To be peeled. Ta halved apricots can can be the halved For this compote the this compote For halves for a a few few dip the apricot halves the operation easier, dip make the operation easier, make by adding adding Flavour the compote compote by water. Flavour into boiling water. seconds into seconds from the the have been been extracted extracted from which have kernels which few of it a a few of the the kernels to it and blanched. blanched. apricot stones, stones, and See COMPOTE. COMPOTE. Apricot comlnte -- See (old recipe). ABRICOTS coNof -- Cook Cook ABRIcors COND Apricots Conde (old Apricots (q.v.) on a a savarin savarin (q.v.) arrange on in syrup. apricots in syrup. Drain, arrange halved apricots halved with kirsch. kirsch. flavoured with syrup flavoured apricot syrup and top with apricot top with and

APRICOT APRICOT
Garnish the middle of the middle savarin with of the the savarin with aamixture mixtureof g. of25 25g. Garnish (l oz., oz., i* cup) cup) cornmeal cornmeal or or maize maize ftour flourcooked cooked in inaa double double (1 (lI pints, boiler with with scant pints, 4 scant litre litre O-!4cups) cups)scalded, scalded, sweetened, sweetened, boiler

vanilla-flavoured milk, milk, until until thick. thick. Dilute Dilute the the mixture mixture with with vanilla-ftavoured cream. Make Make little little cork-shaped cork-shaped croquettes croquettes from from the the corn corn cream. meal or maize Hour or maize flour mixture, mixture, and place them and place round the them round the meal savarin. savarin. Apricots Cond Cond6I. ABRrcors CONn coNpf -- Fill Fill three-quarters three-quarters of ofaa Apricots J. ABRICOTS (see RICE). shallow fireproof dish with with Dessert fireproof dish Dessert rice rice (see RICE). Cook Cook shallow apricot halves halves in in syrup, syrup, drain, drain, and and arrange arrange them themon on the the rice. rice. apricot glac cherries Decorate with with glac cherries and and angelica angelica cut cut into into lozenges. lozenges. Decorate Heat thoroughly thoroughly in in the the oyen, oven, and and serve servewith with Apricot Apricot and and Heat (see SA kirsch sauce sauce (see SAUCE). kirsch UCE).

CREAMS). Sprinkle Sprinkle the apricots with theapricots withfine finesugar glaze sugarand andglaze CREAMS). inaavery veryhot hotoyen. oven. in Whenready ready to toserve, serve,add addto dishaafew tothe fewtablespoons thedish tablespoons of of When apricotsauce sauce laced lacedwith with kirsch. kirsch. apricot Apricob flamb flambe in inkirsch. kirsch. ABRICOTS ABRrcors FLAMBS rL,qMsEsAU AUKIRSCH Apricots KrRscH- Cook apricots apricots in insyrup, syrup, drain, drain, halve put22or halvethem, them, and andput Cook ot33 halves into into individual individual fireproof fireproof dishes. dishes. Add Addto toeach eachdish dish22 halves (3 tablespoons) tablespoons (3 tablespoons)of inwhich of the thesyrup syrupin tablespoons which the the apricots were were cooked, cooked, blended blendedwith withsorne somecornftour cornflour or apricots or point. arrowroot. Heat Heat to toboiling boiling point. arrowroot. pour into When ready ready to toserve, serve, pour intoeach When eachdish dishaateaspoon teaspoonof of kirsch and andset set it italight. alight. kirsch Apricotflan flan -- See SeeTA TART. R T. Apricot Apricotfritters fritters-- See FRITTERS. SeeFRITTERS. Apricot Apricotice icecream ICE CREAMS cream -- See See ICE Apricot AND ICES. ICES. CREAMS AND Apricots l'imp6rahice 1. i l'impratrice Apricots I. ABRICOTS ,rnnrcors A L'IMPRATRICE L'rMpERArRrcE- Three-quarters fill fill aa dessert dessert dish dishwith Three-quarters with Rice Rice dl'impratrice l'impiratrice (see RICE). RICE). Set place, on Set in inaacold possible.Cook (see cold place, ice,if onice, if possible. Cookaa dozen apricots apricots in inaasugar sugar syrup dozen syrupftavoured flavoured with with vanilla, vanilla, drain drain well, halve halve the the apricots, apricots, and weil, andarrange arrangethem them in inaacircle circleon onthe the jelly (see rice. Top Top them them with with aacoating rice. coating of (seeJAMS of redcurrant redcurrant jelly JAMS jelly). Decorate AND JELLlES, JELLIES, Currant AND Curuant jelly). Decorate with with cherries cherriesand and lozenges of lozenges of angelica. angelica. Keep Keep on on ice iceuntil until ready ready to toserve, serve, then then put the the dish dish on put larger one onaalarger one covered covered with with aanapkin, napkin,and andsursurround with with crushed round crushed ice. ice.

Apricots Cond (Scarnati) Cond6 (Scarnali) Apricots

Apricob Cond lsnrcors COND Cond6 II. II. ABRICOTS coNo6 -- Arrange the Apricots the apricot apricot (see RICE). halves on a a ring of Dessert rice (see RICE). Stud Stud the apricots apricots

with halved, almonds, and and decorate glaci with halved, blanched almonds, decorate with with glac cherries angelica. Heat through in cherries and lozenges of ange!ica. in the the oyen oven (see SAUCE). ond kirsch sauce (see and serve with Apricot Apricot and SAUCE). Apricot coupe See ICE CREAMS AND ICES. - See Apricot crofite. cno0rB AUX AUx ABRICOTS crote. CROTE ABRrcors -- Arrange Arrange a a dozen dozen or so slices of savarin in a circle on a dish, s!ices of dish. as described in the the recipe recipe for Fruit crofites crotes (see CROTES) CROUTES) replacing the pineapple slices by a layer of apricot jam spread by a spread evenly evenly on on the savarin slices. slices. Cook halved apricots in syrup, drain them, and and lay them on on the the savarin savarin slices. Decorate Decorate with with crystallised fruit. fruit. Heat in the the oven oyen and serve with with Apricot and kirsch sauce or Madeira sauce SA U CE). sauce (see SAUCE). Crystallised apricob apricots in brandy (petits fours). Crystallised (a forns). ABRICOTS mnrcors ( L'EAU-DE-vrr) L'EAU-DE-VIE) cnrsr.lrrrsfs CRISTALLISS - Use Use apricots which which have have been been preserved (see Candied Candied apricots in preserved in brandy (see in brandy). brandy). Lay Lay fiat sieve sieve and drain for 2 hours. hours. Melt a the apricots on a flat a little water. Put the apricots in a !ittle gum arabic in water. a bowl and pour the the gum arabic over them, them, a a little at time, gently at a a time, shaking the the bowl until until all ail the apricots apricots are coated. coated. shaking Remove them, them, one one at a time, with cooking cooking tongs, tongs, and roll Remove them in in crystallised sugar. sugar. Leave Leave for an hour on a them a wire cake cake sieve, and when when they they are quite dry arrange them in paper sieve, cases. cases. la diable. ABRrcors ABRICOTS A r,c, LA otesr.r DIAELE - Spread Apricots i la Apricots - Spread the ftat sides sides of of 8 8 large large macaroons macaroons with a layer of apricot jam flat ftavoured with with kirsch. kirsch. Place Place them on a fireproof fireproof dish dish in a a flavoured circle. circle. Cook the the same sa me number number of of apricots apricots in in syrup, drain, halve Cook and place place 2 2 halves halves on on each macaroon. macaroon. Spread Spread over over them, and them, them a a few few teaspoons teaspoons of Praline Praline castard custard crectm cream (see (see them
44 44

Apricots Apricots d l'impratrice I'impratrice Il II

Apricots 'IMPRA TRICE Apricots I'imp6ratrice II. i l'impratrice II. ABRICOTS asnrcors AL L'rMpfRATRrcE Prepare (see RICE) Prepare Rice d l'impratrice l'impiratrice (see RICE) in in a a charlotte charlotte mould. mould. Turn it out into a shallow fruit bowl and arrange on it a Turn it out into a shallow fruit bowl and arrange on it a syrup and circle circle of halved apricots, of halved apricots, cooked cooked in in'syrup and drained. drained. Decorate with glac glac cherries cherries and lozenges of and lozenges of angelica. angelica. This This method of presentation may may be be applied applied to to ail all fruit fruit desserts desserts d l'impratrice. I'impiratrice. The Id, tumed The rice rice can can also also be be served served in in a a savarin savarin mou mould, turned out onto onto a a dish, dish, the the centre centre filled filled with with cooked, cooked. drained drained half half apricots. jam Apricot Apricot jan See JAMS JAMS AND AND JELLIES. JELLIES. - See Apricot Apricot omelette. omelette. OMELETTE oMELETTE AUX AUX ABRICOTS ABRrcors -- See See EGG, EGG, Omelette: Jam andfruit Omelette: Jarn andfruit omelette. omelette. Apricot oreillons. Apricot oreillons. OREILLONS D'ABRrcors oRETLLoNS D'ABRICOTS Halved apricots apricots - Halved are ca lied Apricot Apricot oreillons. called oreillons. They They are are bottled bottled in in water water or or a a sugar syrup. sugar syrup. Apricot pudding. pudding. POUDING Apricot eouorNc AUX Aux ABRICOTSABRrcors - See See PUDDING, PUDD I NG, Fruit pudding. Fruit

ARCHESTRATUS ARCHESTRATUS
in Danube, and and the the common common apron, apron, which which abounds abounds in in in the the Danube,
Only Only two two species species of of apron apron are are known, known, one one which which is is found found

the Rhne and and all ail its its tributaries. tributaries. the Rhdne The The apron apron rarely rarely exceeds exceeds 18 18 cm. cm. (7 (7 inches) inches) in in length. length. The The upper upper part part of of its its body body is is yellowish yellowish brown brown streaked streaked with with down obliquely darkish darkish bands bands or or stripes, stripes, which which extend extend obliquely down its its sides. is a a greyish greyish white, white, its its fins fins are are yellow yellow spotted spotted sides. Its Its belly belly is with with grey. grey. Its Its flesh flesh is is very very succulent succulent and and resembles resemb1es that that of of perch, perch, and and it it is is much much appreciated appreciated by by gastronomes. gastronomes. For For culinary culinary preparation preparation see see PERCH. PERCH.

Aprico! omelette omelette Apricot

ARAB ARAB COOKERY COOKERY - See See ALGERIA. ALGERIA . comshellfish comARAPEDE ARAPEDE - French French name name for for a a univalve univalve shellfish way as as same way monly found found in in Provence. Provence. It It is is prepared prepared in in the the same
cockles. cockles.

Apricot sauce sauce - See See SAUCE, Dessert Dessert sauces. sauces. Apricot Apricot sorff6 souffl - See See SOUFFLES, SOUFFLS, Sweet souffiis. souffls. Apricot Apricots preserved preserved in in syrup. syrup. coNsERvE CONSERVE D'ABRICors D'ABRICOTS AU Apricots Compote of SIROP - The The procedure procedure is is exactly the the same as for Compote asfor slRop Preserved fruit fruit in in comapricots in syrup (see COMPOTE, Preserved pote). pote). Apricots preserved au au naturel. naturel. coNsERvE CONSERVE D'AsnIcots D'ABRICOTS AU Apricots NATUREL - Pack the the apricots apricots into preserving jars jars without NATUREL adding either either water or sugar. Screw on the lids Iids and sterilise adding (194F.). 90'C. (194'F.). for 15 to 20 minutes at 90C. ABRICOTS AU RIz RIZ - Cook Apricots with rice. ABRIcors I cup rice in Cook 1 Apricots sweetened milk milk which has been been flavoured with vanilla. 2 cups sweetened 2 Place in a fruit dish. Cook halved a sugar syrup, halved apricots in a stone them, and arrange arrange on the bed bed of few rice. Add Add a a few of rice. on the stone them, and tablespoons of apricot sauce, if desired . Serve hot or cold. Serve hot desired. tablespoons Apricots with rice and meringue. ABRICOTS lu nsnNcuEs AU ABRIcors MERINGUS Apricots (see RIZ - Cook rice (see (4 oz., 1 as for g. (4 for Dessert rice rice as 125 g. cup) rice ntz f cup) - Cook 125 dish. an ovenproof ovenproof dish. on an a thick thick layer on RICE) and and arrange arrange it in a Cook a with flavoured with syrup flavoured a sugar syrup a dozen or so apricots in a vanilla, halve and in a a circle circle the halves in them. Arrange the and stone them. on the (q.v.), smoothing the sursursmoothing the rice. Coyer the rice. Cover with meringue (q.v.), face. edge. piped round round the the edge. meringue piped face. Decorate with meringue Sprinkle oven, in a a moderate moderate oyen, sugar and and bake bake in with icing icing sugar Sprinkle with raising to last moment moment to the last at the to very very hot hot at raising the the temperature to make the golden brown. decorate baked, decorate When baked, the meringue golden brown. When the redcurrant piped edge and redcurrant little apricot apricot and with a further with a 1ittle the piped edge further jelly, jelly, alternating served is usually usually served This dessert dessert is colours. This alternating the the colours. hot, be served served cold. cold. hot. but it it can can also also be Pineapple, pears and peaches, pears apples and apples cherries, peaches, Pineapple, bananas, bananas, cherries, can preshould preThe fruit prepared in fruit should same manner. manner. The in the the same can be be prepared viously in stewed in poached in syrup or or stewed in vanilla-flavoured vanilla-flavoured syrup viously be be poached butter; le, halved, slices, or or diced. diced. whole, halved, in in slices, used who it can butter; it can be be used Apricot TARTLET. TART, TARTLET. See TART, Apricot tarts tarb and ta;tleb -- See and ta.rtlets

(Franche-Comte) which which Jura (Franche-Comt) small town ARBOIS ARBOIS - A A small town in in the the Jura ros red and and ros white, red esteemed white, has given its to highly highly esteemed its name to (See FRANCHE-COMTE.) wines. (See FRA NCHE-COMT.) La Here is is La popular dessert. dessert' Here most popular a most Once a ARBOLADE ARBOLADE - Once pan and add and add in a a pan little butter butter in 'Melt a a little for it: it: 'Melt Varenne's recipe for juice, sugar pinch of salt. Cook Cook of salt. a pinch and a pear juice, sugar and yolks of of egg, egg, pear yolks pale a pale Colour a water. Colour flower water. with flower sweeten with then sweeten iogether, together, then green and and serve.' a apple, a cane apple, the cane of the Fruit of ARBousE -- Fruit ARBUTUS BERRY. ARBOUSE parts of of southern parts profusion in in the the southern in profusion found in is found shrub which is Canary the Canary and the Europe and southern Europe Mexico, southern America, Mexico, North America, North Islands. parts of southern of southern grown in some parts in some is grown which is shrub, which This shrub, Thls strawas strawknown as also known is also Languedoc, is in the the Languedoc, mainly in France, mainly France, its of its and colour colour of shape and to the the shape name to this name It owes owes this tree. It berry tree. its neither its has neither but has strawberry but the strawberry resembles the which resembles fruit, which fruit, flesh. its melting melting fiesh. nor its scent nor scent and wine and of wine suppliers main su the main are the Algeria and A Spain and Italy, 1 taly, Spain Igeria are ppliers of berry. arbutus berry. the arbutus from the distilled from spirits distilled spirits yields aa also yields berry also this berry fruit of of this the fruit spirits, the wine and and spirits, Besides wine Besides of reputation of has the the reputation which has d'arbouse, crime d called crme liqueur called 'arhouse, which liqueur digestion. helpful to to digestion. being helpful being and are sweet, sweet, and they are ripe; they when ripe; fleshy when very fleshy are very Tde berries beiries are The to be astrinbeastrinreputed to They are are reputed after-taste. They acid after-taste. faintly acid a faintly have a have gent and diuretic. and diuretic. gent

arch.lts known as asarch. commonly known mollusc commonly A bivalve bivalve mollusc ARCA -- A Its ARCA the allthe found on onail are found colour, are rather aadark dark colour, which are are of of rather shells, which shells, France. of France. coasts coasts of wayas as' prepared in thesame sameway in the raw or or prepared eaten raw mollusc is iseaten This mollusc This mussels. mussels. of southernshores onthe situated on town,situated ARCACHON-This ARCACHON - This town, the southern shores of (aninlet isdear dear Biscay), is Bayof ofBiscay), theBay inlet of ofthe d'Arcachon (an Bassin d'Arcachon the Bassin the for ofoysters, oysters,for lovers of gastronomes and and lovers of gastronomes heartof the heart to to the (andfor for beds(and oysterbeds magnificent oyster for its itsmagnificent isfamous famous for Arcachon Arcachon is particular). gravettes in particular). 'tes in its itsgraV of speciesof givenin toaaspecies Lorraine to inLorraine Namegiven ARCAI'TEITE ARCANETTE -- Name from andfrom tealand froman anordinary ordinary teal Itdiffers differs from local teal. teal.It small small local inits its foundin isfound andis migrate, notmigra garganey in doesnot inthat thatititdoes garganey te, and swift' butswift. shortbut Itsflight flightisisshort yearround. round.Its theyear native landail allthe native land species twospecies thetwo shooting,the likeduck duckshooting, islike Arcanette shootingis Arcanetteshooting being behaviour. ofsimilar similarbehaviour. beingof much andmuch excellentand ofteal tealisisexcellent speciesof thisspecies The Theflesh fleshof ofthis compared becompared canbe gastronomes. In Intaste tasteititcan bygastronomes. appreciated appreciated by preparation see DUCK. see For culinarypreparation duck. with . Forculinary DUCK. withthat thatofwild of wildduck
ARCA. ARCH SeeARCA ARCH- -See

APRJCOTING. in used in This .is the the term term used ,c,nntcorER -- Thisis APRICOTING. ABRICOTER ptisserie in covering covering consists in which consists pdtisserie to operation which to define define the the operation a cake or which has has been been layer ofapricotjam of apricotjam which sweet with with a a thin thin layer acake or sweet boiled with liqueur, liqueur, flavoured with down to thick consistency, consistency,flavoured boileit down to aa thick and passed through fine strainer. strainer. and passed through aa fine

Apron Apron

APRON body elongated body rounded,elongated withaarounded, fish,with A small smallfish, APRON - - A covered the flattened,the headisisflattened, Itshead scales. Its rough scales. withvery veryrough covered with snout th , its placedat at finsare areplaced protrudes above mouth, itsdorsal dorsalfins itsmou aboveits snout protrudes aadistance large. gillslits arelarge. slitsare itsgill eachother, other,its distancefrom fromeach 45 45

ANGELICA' SeeANGELICA. ARcHANGfLIQUE - -See ARCHANGELICA. ARCHAI\GELICA. ARCHANGLIQUE

was s.c.,who who 350 poetof of about350 Greekpoet ARCHESTRATUS about B.e., was ARCHFSTRATUS- -Greek of authorof was the Hewas said.He gastronome,ilitisissaid. greatgastronome, the author aa a avery verygreat

(AL') ARCHIDUC ( L') ARCHIDUC

work in verse, Gasfronomy, of which only a few short fragwork in verse, Gaslrol1omy, of which only a rew short fragments have survived. ments have survived. Archestratus was born, it is believed, in Athens, although Archestratus was born, it is believed, in Athens, although say in Gela, an ancient town in southern Sicily; and he lome say sorne in Gela, an ancient town in southern Sicily, and he lived for long time in Syracuse. He was chiefly renowned lived for aalong time in Syracuse. He was chiefly renowned for the numerous voyages he he made made to to colleet collect notes notes on on for the numerous voyages culinary methods and the eating habits of different nations. culinary methods and the eating habits of different nations. Archestratus is sometimes referred to as a cook. From the Archestratus is sometimes referred to as a cook. From the writings of authors of the time it is apparent that he was more writings ofauthors of the time it is apparent that he was more of a gastronome and an able wdter, not a cookery technician. ofa gastronome and an a bic writer, not a cookery technician. He can be described as the Brillat-Savarin of his time. He can be described as the Brillat-Savarin of his time. The most reliable data we have concerning this poetThe most reliable data we have concerning this poetgastronome comes from Deipnosophistai or Specialists in gastronome cornes from Deipnosophistai or Specialisls in Dining by Athenaeus, a work translated into French from Dining by Athenaeus, a work translated into French from the Latin text by Michel de Marolles in 1680. There we find the Latin text by Michel de Marolles in 1680. There we find all that pertains to gastronomy, gastronomy, food production, cookery ail that pertains to food production, cookery and ceremonial banquets. and ceremonial banquets. Here is what Barthlemy, inspired by Athenaeus, says of Here is what Barthlemy, inspired by Athenaeus, says of Archestratus: Archestrat us: 'This author was a friend of one of pericles' sons. He a friend of one of Perieles' sons. He 'This author was crossed many lands and seas to find out for himself what was crossed many lands and seas to find out for himself what was the best they had to offer. In his voyages he did not study the the hest they had to otfer. In his voyages he did not study the customs and manners of peoples, which it is useless to study customs and manners of peoples, which it is useless to study since it is impossible to change them, but went into the since it is impossible to change them, but went into the places where the delights of the table were manufactured, places wbere tbe delights of the table were manufactured, and had no dealings except with people who catered for and had no dealings except with people who eatcred for these pleasures. His poem is a shining treasure, and does not these pleasures. His poem is a shining treasure, and does not contain a single verse which is not a plea for gastronomy.' contain a single verse which is nol a plea for gastronomy.' ARCHIDUC (A L') - A term applying to a great number of ARCHIDUC ( V) - A lerm applying 10 a great number of preparations. Dishes d I'archiduc are usually seasoned with preparations. Dishes l'archiduc are usually seasoned with paprika and blended with cream. (See EGGS; CHICKEN. paprika and blended with cream. (Sec EGGS; CHICKEN, Chicken sauti Ar chduke.') Chicken saut Archduke.) purptsh-red (Orchif Dyer's moss). ARCHIL moss). ORSEILLE oRsETLLE ARCHIL (Orcbil, Dyer's - Purplish-red paste made from lichen, used as colouring matter. It is paste made [rom lichen, used as colouring matter. lt is mainly used for tinting pickled tongue - langue d l,icarlate. mainly used for tinting pickled tongue -langue l'carlate. ARDENNAISE (A L') - A term applying mostly to dishes of ARDENNAlSE ( V) - A term applying mostly to dishes of small birds cooked in a cocotte with juniper berries. (See small birds cooked in a cocolle with juniper berries. (See
someresemblance resemblance to peacock, and tothe thepeacock, andis isround found in inJava Java and and sorne Sumatra. Sumatra. The flesh flesh of ofargus pheasant is argus pheasant is very verydelicate. delicate. Ail All the the The preparation given methods of of preparation given for pheasant (q.v.) for pheasant (q.v.)are are also methods also applicable to pheasant. argus pheasant. toargus applicable

ARIDGE -- The The Arige Aridge dpanemenl dipartemenl of of France, France, situated situated on on ARIGE theSpanish Spanish frontier frontier between between Haute-Garonne Haute-Garonne in inthe thewest westand and tbe Pyrdnes-Orientales in in the the east, east, is is chiefly chiefly famous famous for for the the Pyrnes-Orientales mineral waters watersof of the the thermal thermal springs springsat at the the spas spas ofAx of Ax and and minerai Aulus. Aulus. Among Arige Aridge culinary culinary specialities specialities Ihere there are good are many many good Among dishes; above above ail, all, those those ri rich in fat fat meat. meat. dishes; eh in Excellent Confits (se CONFIT) Confits d'oie d'oie (see CONFIT) are are made made in in this this Excellent region. The The Arige Aridge geese geese have have a a very very fine fine flesh. flesh. Arige pork Aridge pork region. is also also of quality, and of high high quality, and is is made good charculerie; made into into good charcuterie; is Aridge bams hams and and sausages sausages are are famous. famous. (See (See LANGUEDOC.) LANGUEDOC.) Ariege

ARIEGEOISE ( (A V) L') -= Name given to Name given to various various dishes dishes ARIGEOlSE almost ail all of of whieh which include include the the following following ingredients ingredients as as almost garnish: green green cabbage pickled pork, cabbage and pork, and and pickled and- sometimes sometimes gamish: kidney beans. (See CHI beans. (See CHICKEN Stffid chicken chicken I'ariigeoise; d l'arigeoise; kidney CKEN,, Stuffed MUTTON, Sluffed Stufed breasi breast of of mullon mutton ci d l'arigeoi5e.) I'ariigeoise.) MUTTON,
(Harlequin) --The ARLEQUIN (Harlequin) (or rather was, arlequrn is is (or was, for for ARLEQUIN The arlequin it is is_almost past) an a thing thing of of tbe the past) an assortment assortment of of scraps of of it almost a food, bought bought from from bottle bottle washers or or washers-up washers-up in in restaufood, rants. rants. The scraps scraps were were made made to to look look palatable palatable and and sold The sold to to people of of small small means, means, who cou could, for a few sous, have a few have the the Id, for people illusion good of eating eating a a good meal. illusion of These bits pieces were also ealled bits and and pieees jewels. called bijoux These - jewels. Privat d'Anglemont d'Anglemont says: says: 'Arlequin is is so so called because Privat because these dishes are are composed composed of of bits pieces, thrown and pieces, thrown 10tothese dishes bils and gether in a haphazard parti-coloured gether in a haphazard fashion, just just like like the parti-eoloured tights of citizen of tights of the the citizen of Bergamo. A A bucket of pieces costs 3 francs; 3 francs; there there you you can can find find everything, everything, from from trufled truffied chicken and chicken and game game to to beef beef and cabbage.' cabbage.' ARLES ARLES - Many Many famous famous gastronomic gastronomie products produets originate originate in this neigbbourhood, situated in in the iouth south of this city city and and its its neighbourhood, France. France. Chief Chief among among them them is is the the celebrated saucisson d,Arles d'Arles (Arles (Arles sausage), sausage), but but the the region region also produces produces excellent oil. oil. (See PROVENCE.) (See PROVENCE.) ARLESIENNE ARLSIENNE (A ( L')L') - The The name na me applies applies to to dishes dishes some some of which which have have a a garnish garnish of of aubergines aubergines fried fried in in oil, oil, sauted sauted tomatoes, tomatoes, and and onion onion rings rings dredged dredged in in flour flour and fried. fried. Another Another garnish garnish consists consists of of whole whole small small tomatoes tomatoes peeled peeled and eooked in in butter, bu 11er, and and very very [ender tender pickled pickled endive endive and cooked hearts hearts fried fried in in oil. oil. Yet small tomatoes Yet another anothergarnish garoish consists consists of ofsmall tomatoes stuffed stutfed with with pilaf pilaf and and browned browned on on top, top, large large olives olives stuffed stutfed with with chicken ehicken forcemeaf, forcemeat, and and new new potatoes. potatoes.

THRUSH.) THRUSH.) The same name also applies to a method of preparing The same name also applies to a method of preparing crayfish (q.v.). crayfish (q.v.). ARDOISE (Slate) - Slang name given to the bills for meals ARDOISE (Stale) - Slang name given to the bills for meals taken in cheap restaurants; in days gone by, these bills were taken in cheap restaurants; in days gone by, these bills were written on a slate. written on asiate. ARENGA (Sugar paln) - A genus of palm tree. Its trunk ARENGA (Sugar palm) -- A genus of palm tree. Ils trunk contains abundant pith, which produces a large quantity of contains abundant pith, whieh produces a large quantity of starchy matter, obtained by making an incision on the starchy matter, obtained by making an incision on the trunk, from which sago (q.v.) prepared. tnmk, from which sago (q.v.) is is prepared. From From the the clusters, clusters, which which develop develop all ail the the year year round round between the lower leaves, there is a flow of sweet sap which, hetween the lower leaves, there is a tlow of swect sap which, by simple evaporation, by simple evaporation, furnishes furrushes a a kind kind of of suglr sugar of of a a brownish colour, and, by a process of fermentation, a palm brownish colour, and, by a pro cess of fermentation, a palm wine. wine. In England In England and and in in some sorne parts parts of of France, France, where where imported imported sago is to be had, fruit of the sugar palm, gathered green, sago is to be had, fruit of the sugar palm, gathered green, is candied, and is much valued as a stomach remedy. is eandied, and is much valued as a stomacb remedy.

ARGENTEUIL ARGENTEUIL - Asparagus Asparagus cultivated cultivated in in the the Argenteuil Argenteuil region, in Seine-et-Oise, enjoys a world-wide reputaiion. region, in Seine-et-Oise, enjoys a world-wide reputation. Nowadays, Argenteuil exports its 'cuttings, and spreads Nowadays, Argenteuil exports its 'cuttings' and spreads .Conthe renown the renown of of its its asparagus asparagus with wilh the the help help of of the the 'Confraternity ofthe Argenteuil asparagus'. (See ASpARAGUS.) fraternity of the Argenteuil asparagus'. (See ASPARAGUS.) Argenteuil wine once rivalled that of Suresnes. A few Argenteuil wine once rivalled that of Suresnes. A few casks of it are still produced annually. casks of it are still produced annually.
ARGUS PI{EASANT - Bird thus called because of the ARGUS PHEASANT Bird thus called because of the great number of 'eyes' on its magnificent plumage. It bears great number of 'eyes' on its magnificent plumage. It bears
46 46

ARMADILLO. ARMADILLO. urou TATOU - Small Small toothless toothless mammal mammai covered eovered with with scales, sc.ales, found found in in South South America. America. It 1t is is about about the the size size of ofa a guinea-pig, guinea-pig, but bul more more highly highly esteemed esteemed as as meat. meat. ARMAGNAC ARMAGNAC - Region Region in in the the old old province province of of Gascony, Gascony, now now almost almost entirely entirely included included in in the the dipartement dpartement of of Gers. Gers. The The Armagnac Armagnac brandies brandies are are famous. famous. Armagnac Armagnac (which (which is is even even shaped shaped like like a a vine vine leaf) Ieaf) is is divided divided into into three three zones: zones: lower lowcr Armagnac, Armagnac, upper upper Armagnac, Armagnac, and and Tnardze. Tnarze. (See (See sPrRrTs.) SPIRITS.) ARMORICAIIYE ARMORICAlNE - Armorica Armorica (older (oider Aremorica) Aremorica) was was the the ancient ancient name namefor for aa region regionin in north-west north-west France Francecomprising comprising the thecoast coastof ofGaul, Gaul, between betweenthe the Seine Seineand and Loire Loirerivers. rivers. Armoricaine isthe thename namegiven givento toaavery verychoice choice Armoricainenowadays nowadaysis variety varielyof ofoysters oysters(q.v.). (q.v.).

ARROWROOT ARROWROOT
ARMORICAINE ARMORICAINE(A (L') V)-- Corruption Corruptionby bycertain certainauthors authorsof of
the thename na meof ofdishes dishescalled calleditI'amiricaine, l'amricaine,particularly particularlylobster. lobster. this corruption, As ofthis corruption,the thedish, dish,so sotypically typicallyProvenqal, Provenal, Asaaresult resultof has hasbeen beenplaced placedunder underthe thepatronage patronageof oflegendary legendaryArmorica. Armorica. describes describes the the characteristic characteristic fragrance fragrance ofvarious of variousdishes. dishes. The The word wordaroma aromais isstronger strongerthan thaneither eitherodour odouror orsmell. smel!. The Theword word perfume, on the the other other hand, hand, is is more more specifically specifically reserved reserved for for perfume, on essences essences and and other other non-edible non-edible substances. substances. It It is is right right and and

AROMA. AROMA. ARoME AROME - Gastronomically Gastronomically speaking, speaking, this this word word

proper proper that that gastronomical gastronomical literature literature should should have have a a termiterminology nology of ofits its own. own. We We say, say, the the aroma aroma of ofthis this consomm, consomm, the the aroma aroma of of tfus thisfumet (q.v.), the the aroma aroma of of this this coffee. coffee. fumel (q.v.),

AROMATIC AROMATIC PLANTS. PLANTS. PLANTES PLANTES ARoMATIQUES AROMATIQUES - A A great great number of aromatic aromatic plants, plants, with with either either a a bland bland or or pungent pungent number of aroma, aroma, are are used used as as flavourings flavourings in in cookery. cookery. The The following following are are among among the the herbs herbs most most commonly commonly used used in in the the kitchen: kitchen: parsley, parsley, chervil, chervil, tarragon, tarragon, rosemary, rosemary, thyme, thyme, bay bay leaf, leaf, wild wild thyme, thyme, sage, savoury; and and the the following following are are the the most most common common aromatics: aromatics: garlic, garlic, shallots, spring spring onions, onions, chives chives and and onions. onions.

AROMATICS. AROMATICS. lnounrns AROMATES - Taken Taken in in its its general general sense, sense, this this out an an odour odour of of describes all ail substances substances which wbich give give out word describes varying varying degrees degrees of of sweetness. sweetness. The The greatest greatest number number of of aromatics is provided by plants of of hot hot countries, countries, notably notably aromatics concerned here with aromatics aromatics used used in in Arabia. We are only concerned cookery, pdtisserie ptisserie and confectionery. confectionery. cookery, ancient practice, excesses of Without indulging in in the the excesses of ancient practice, when scents like rose water and benzoin were were used used on every every a disposal a cookery has possible occasion, present-day cookery has at its its disposai those great number of aromatics. The following are among those pepper' cinnacinnadill, betel pepper, as condiments: condiments: dill, widely used most most widely used as leaf, mace, mace, mustard' bay leaf, coriander, bay mon, cloyes, mustard, nutmeg, mon, cloves, coriander, for used mostly for pepper and pepper and thyme. Next come the aromatics used cumin, basil, cumin, anise, basil, anise, star anise, food: ambergris, ambergris, anise, flavouring food: etc. juniper, ginger, sage, etc. rosemary, sage, ginger, horseradish, horseradish, rosemary, fennel, juniper, for fresh' for used fresh, plants are are frequently frequently used aromatic plants Some aromatic Sorne exThe essence essence exparsley, etc. etc. The tarragon, parsley, chervil, tarragon, instance: instance: chervil, is and tangerines tangerines is lemons and peel of of oranges, oranges, lemons from the the peel tracted tracted from to the the in addition addition to and confectionery, confectionery, in Pdtisserie and also used. used. Ptisserie also and chocolate and vanilla, tea, tea, chocolate use vanilla, also use mentioned, also aromatics aromatics mentioned, coffee. coffee. with are dealt dealt with onions are and onions shallots and onions, Garlic, spring spring on Garlic, ions, shallots well as as as weil order, as alphabetical order, in their their alphabetical entries in separate entries under under separate parsnip, which are which are and parsnip, celery and of carrot, carrot, celery roots of the aromatic aromatic roots the than aromatics. aromatics. vegetables than more vegetables really really more

Medical Medical opinion opmiOn concerning concerning the the use use of aromatics in tolerate it, cookery cookeryvaries. varies. Some Sornedoctors doctorsdenounce denounceit, it, others others tolerate it, of aromatics Formerly it. upon yei insist and and yet others others insist upon it. Formerly the the use use of aromatics has, in and and itrong strong seasoning seasoning was was abused. abused. Modern Modern cookery cookery has, in excesses. these with away done measure, large large measure, done away with these excesses. use of iromatherapia Aromatherapia (treatment (treatment for for maladies maladies by by the the use of simply plants) plants) is is now now being being successfully successfully practised, practised, often often simply (See CONDIincorporated incorporated in in the the daily daily diet' diet. (See SEASONING' SEASONING, CONDIMENTS.) MENTS.) To impart some aroma to a AROMATISE. AROMATISE. ARoMATIsER AROMATISER - To impart sorne aroma to a aromatised culinary preparation or ora a pastry. pastry. Pastries Pas tries are are also also aromatised culinary preparation with with liqueurs. liqueurs. plover. ARPBNTEUR ARPENTEUR - Common Common French Frencb name name for for ployer. aromatic various made of liqueur old An ARQUEBUSE ARQUEBUSE - An old liqueur made of various aromatic plants. plants. of eau Eau Eau d'arquebuse d'arquebuse - Also Also known known under under the the name name of eau or infusion by is obtained This beverage d'arquebusade. d'arquebusade. This beverage is obtained by infusion or lady's finger, maceration maceration of of vulnerary vulnerary plants plants (kidney (kidney vetch, vetch, lady's finger, wound-wort). wound-wort). ARRACACHA ARRACACHA or or ARRACACIAARRACACIA - Plant, Plant, native native of of ColumColumAmerica. bia, bia, which wbich grows grows in in the the Andes Andes and and in in North North America. is which produce flour a farinaceous, Its Its roots, roots, which which are are farinaceous, produce a flour which is cooked eaten eaten in in its its country country of of originorigin. The The roots roots can can also also be be cooked like like yams yams and and sweet sweet potatoes potatoes (q.v.). (q.v.). arraof the T[e The starch starch which which is is extracted extracted from from the the roots roots of the arraarrowroot. similar to is similar cacha cacha is to arrowroot. from distilled from given to a spirit spirit distilled Name given ARRACK. ARRACK. ARAcK ARACK - Name to a sugar and from either distilled is also Arrack rice. fermented fermented rice. Arrack is also distilled either from sugar and juice which seeps from the the juice or from ferment, or left to milk left coconut rnilk coconut to ferment, which seeps palm.In Runion coconut palm. the coconut made on on the incisions made through incisions In Runion through parts the South South of most parts of the in most and in Madagascar and in Madagascar Island-, in Island, the cultivated, is cane sugar where sub-continent, African African sub-continent, where sugar cane is cultivated, the ferfrom ferdistilled from given to spirit distilled to a a spirit is also also given arrack is of arrack name of name juice squeezed out under a juice (sugar (sugar cane cane juice cane juice mented cane mented squeezed out un der a

of aromatics in

distillation ofArmagnac Armagnac distillation leading centre Gers, Cellaratat Condom, Gers. Cellar Condom. aa leading centre or (French TouristOffice) Ofr.ce) Governrnent TouriSI (French Governmenl

press). press). obtained extracts obtained given to to starchy starchy extracts Name given ARROWROOT - Name ARROWROOT regions' tropical regions. plants of the tropical of the various plants of various roots of the roots from the from because the name originated originated because this name that this legend that a legend is a There is There the roots capable the from obtained sap the consideied Indians Indians considered the sap obtained from the roots capable name in Hence the the name arrows' Hence by arrows. caused by wounds caused healing wounds of healing of in arrowroot that arrowroot is, however, however, tbat fact is, The fact 'arrow-root'. The English, 'arrow-root'. English, flour-root, word for Indian American Indian word for flour-root, the American from the name from its name takes its takes araruta. araruta. Indian arrowroot arrowroot is the the West West Indian starches is these starches of these chief of The chief The plant from the plant because the called (Maranta arundinacea), thus ca arundinacea), thus (Maranta lied because from West Indies. in the the West produced originated originated in is produced flour is the flour which the which Indies. is also called West itis and it India and it into into India introduced it The English English introduced also called West The Indian salep. salep. Indian Madagascar. grows in in Madagascar. plant also also grows The plant The is imported into Europe andis edible and iseminently eminently edible Arrowroot is Arrowroot imported into Europe in is used used in starch is delicate starch very delicate This very quantities. This great quantities. in great in preparation in the well as gravies, as and soups thiclening thickening soups and gravies, as weil as in the preparation sweet dishes. numeroussweet puddings and andnumerous milk puddings blancmangei, milk ofblancmanges, of dishes. as a food valuedas isespecially especially valued arrowroot is Easilydigestible, digestible,arrowroot a food Easily aged. theaged. andthe invalids and young children, children, invalids for young for into Pour into i L'ARROWROOT t'nRRowRoor - - Pour LIAIsoN liaison LIAISON ,Amonnoot liaison. Arrowroot (or other) stock, veal(or quart) boiling boiling veal generousquart) (lf pints, pints,generous litre(li 11litre other) stock, stock coldstock littlecold withaalittle wellblended blended with arrowroot,weil tablespoonarrowroot, 1Itablespoon strain. andstrain. boiland theboil tothe bringto Mix,bring water. Mix, orwater. or Mix t'.nRnowRoor - - Mix AL'ARROWROOT porridge. BOUILLIE BouILLIE Arowroot porridge. Arrowroot cup) with33tablespoons tablespoonsCt (|cup) arrowrootwith cup)arrowroot 6cup) tablespoons(1 33tablespoons the Bringthe pint,2t 2|cups). cups).Bring dl.(l(l pint, from66d!. milk taken takenfrom cold co Id milk teaspoon either1Iteaspoon addingeither boil,adding theboil, tothe milkto ofthe themilk remainderof remainder ofthe the Poursorne someof sugar.Pour tablespoons)sugar. oz.,66tab.lespoons) or75 75g.g.(3 saltor Qoz., salt pan and cook tothe the returnto then arrowroot,th thearrowroot, hotrnilk milkonto ontothe en retum pan and cook hot

47 47

ARSENIC ARSENIC
gentlyfrom to10 l0minutes, stirringfrom timeto totime. time.Stock gently from 88to minutes, stirring from time Stock canbe beused usedinstead insteadof ofmilk. milk. can por.lDrNc Arrowroot pudding. pudding. POUDING A L'ARROWROOT L'.e,nRownoor - _ See ArroWToot See PUDDING, Semolina Semo linapudding. pudding. PUDDING, ARSENIC - Anelement element which whichis isnormally normally present presentin inminute minute ARSENIC-An quantities in inthe thetissues tissues of of the thehuman human body (thyroid gland, body (thyroid gland, quantities gland, mammary marnmary gland, gland, head headand ind body body hair). thymus hair). lhymus gland, Certain vegetables vegetables (kohlrabi, (kohlrabi,turnips, turnips, certain certaincere cereils;, Certain aIs), sea sea fish,sea seasalt, salt,milk milk and and egg yolk contain eggyolk contiin sm quantitiej ofit, small fish, ail quantities of it, sufficient for for the the requirements requirements of of the theorganism. organism. sufficient ARTAGNAN (A LA D) Name garnish composed ofaagarnish composedof ARTAGNAN ( LA D') -- Name of of preparcd cCpes prepared (see SAUCE), d la la barnaise bCarnaise (see SAUCE), little littl; stuffed cpes stuffed tomatoes and and cork-shaped cork-shaped potato potatocroquettes. croquettes. tomatoes garnish is This garnish is served served with with large large or pieces of or small small pieces This of meat meat poultry. and with with poultry. and
vinaigrette vinaigre t t e(see (seeHORS-D'UVRE). HORS-D'GUVRE). Artichoke Artichoke hearts, hearts,cooked cooked and andchilIed, chilled, make make one oneof ofthe the best Id dishes. garnishesfor bestgarnishes forco cold dishes.They Theycan canbe bestuffed stuffedwith with various variousingredients. ingredients.They Theyare arealso alsoserved servedas asan anhors-d'uvre. hors-d'euvre.
(Seealso (See also JERUSALEM JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE.) ARTICHOKE.)

Artichoke orescence Artichoke showing showing infl inflorescence a. a. Large Large green green from from Laon Laon b. b. Camus Camus from Brittany Brittany c. Artichoke Artichoke bud bud

ARTICHOKF. ARTICHOKE. anrIcuAur ARTICHAUT - Vegetable Vegetable derived derived from from the tbe cardoon, by scientific scientific methods. methods. cardoon, vastly vastly improved improved by This This plant plant has has been been cultivated cultivated in in France France since since the the beginbeginning of the the. sixteenth sixteenth century century and and is is mentioned mentioned by by Rabelais. Rabelais. ning of brought to to France France by by It originated originated in in Sicily, Sicily, and and was was brought Catherine of them them that that sh! she Catherine de de Medici, Medici, who who ate ate so so many many of 'cuyda 'cuyda crever' crever' ('almost ('almost burst'). burst'). (Journal (Journal of of p. P. de de I'Estoile) l'Estoile) The The principal principal regions regions of of French French production production are are in in the the west Anjou); the the south-east sou th-east (provence (Provence and and the the west (Brittany (Brittany and and Anjou); Garonne valley; valley; the the Paris Paris region; region; and and Hyres region); region); the the Garonne lVbres

It

artichokes of Laon, Laon, the the camus camus of of Brittany, Brittany, the the violeiart! violet artiartichokes of choke choke of ofProvence, Provence, the the green green (or (or 'white') 'white') variety variety of ofthe the same same region, region, and and the the large large macau. macau. The The green green and and the the violet violet Provengal Provenal artichokes artichokes are are also also cultivated in North North Africa Africa and and exported exported to to France France at at the the cultivated in beginmng of the the season. season. The The bulk bulk of of French French production production beginning of takes ofMay May and and June. June. takes place placein in the themonths months of The is a a health-giving health-giving food, food, and and lends lends itself itselfto to The artichoke artichoke is numerous numerous delicious delicious dishes. dishes. When Whenit itis is young, young, and and therefore therefore very very tender, tender, it it is is eaten eaten raw, raw, d la la croque-au-sel croque-au-selwhich which means means with 'nought but but a a grain grain of of salt', salt', d Ia la poivrade, poivrade, and and d la la with 'nought

Roussillon. The most most sought sought after after are are the the laige large green green Roussillon. The

WHOLE WHOLE ARTICHOKES. ARTICHOKES.ARCTICHAUTS lncrrcHAurs ENTIERS ENrrERs Artichokes prepare Artichokes barigoule. barigoule. ARTICHAUTS ARTTcHAUTs BARIGOULE BARrcouLE - - Prepare the the artichokes artichokes as as described described in in Whole Whole boi/ed boited artichokes artich;kes below. below. Fill Fill the theinsides insides with withaduxelles a duxelles (q.v.) (q.v.)mixture, mixture, adding adding to to it itaa quarter quarter of ofits itsvolume volume in infinely finely shredded shredded fat fat bacon, bacon, the thi same same amount am_ount of of chopped chopped lean lean ham, ham, and and sorne some chopped parsley. chopped parsley. Surround Surround the the artichokes artichokes with with rashers rashers or or strips strips of of fat fat bacon, bacon, and and braise braise them them as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for Large Large braised braised artichokes artichokes stuffed (see below). stuffed au gras (see au gras below). Finish Finish as is described described in in that that recipe. recipe. Note. Note. A A variant variant of of this this recipe recipe consists consists of of cooking cooking the the stuffed stuffed artichokes artichokes in in oil oil with with aa little little white white wine. wine. In home home cookery, cookery, in in the the absence absence of of Demi-glace Demi-glace (see (see - In SA UCE), the SAUCE), the braising braising liquor liquor can can be be thickened thickened with Xneadea with Kneaded butter (see BUTTER). butter (see BUTTER). Whole lVhole boiled boild artichokes. artichokes. ARTICHAUTS ARTTcHAUTs ENTIERS ENrrERs BOUILLIS BourLL$ -Cut Cut off off the pull off the stalks, stalks, pull the hard off the hard outer outer leaves leaves and and trim trim them. them. Shorten Shorten them them evenly, evenly, cutting cutting off off the the tops tops to to twotwothirds thirds of of their their height. height. Wash, Wash, tie tie with with string string round round the the largest largest circumference, and and put them, them, bases bases downwards, downwards, into into a a saucesaucepan of pan of boiling boiling salted salted water. Cook, Cook, keeping keeping the the water water boiling, boiling, until until done; done; the the time time depends on on the the size size and and freshness freshness of of the the artichokes. artichokes. Drain, Drain, dry on ove the on a a cloth, cloth, rem remove string. Serve the string. Serve as as indicated indicated in in the the recipe chosen. The artichokes must must not not be be overcooked. overcooked. To To ensure ensure this, this, .give, under test test the bottom of the vegetable, vegetable, which which should should 'give' under very pressure when very light light pressure when cooked cooked sufficiently. sufficiently. If If the the artiartiin cold chokes are to be be served cold, put them them in cold water water as as soon soon as they are cooked. ARTICHAUTS Boiled artichokes with Boild with various cold cold sauces. sauces. ARTTcHAUTS BOUILLIS - Boil, Boil, cool and with one of the the following following BouILLrs and serve serve with one of sauces: Mayonnaise, Mayonnaise, Mustard, Mustard, Tartare, Vinaigrette (see (see sauces: Tartare, Vinaigrette SAUCE). sAUCE). To serve serve artichokes artichokes cold, cold, cook them, them, scoop scoop out out the the choke, choke, To and remove remove the leaves leaves which which surround surround it. it. Replace Replace them them in in the the and of the the choke. choke. Season Season these these leaves leaves cavity left by the removal of cavity of chopped chervil chervil and and parsley. parsley. with a pinch pinch of with ARTICHAUTS Boiled artichokes artichokes with with vrrious various hot hot sauces. sauces. ARTTcHAUTS Boitd BOUILLIS - Boil Boil as as described in in the the recipe recipe for for Whole Whole boiled boi/ed BouILLrs ar~ichokes, and and serve serve with with one one of of the the following following sauces: sauces: White, White, artichokes, (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Butter, Cream, Cream, Hollandaise, Hollandaise, Mousseline Mousseline (see Butter, Large braisod braised artichokes artichokes stufred stuffed au au gras gras (with (with meat). meat). cnos GROS Large ARTICHAUTS snArs6s BRAISS FARcIs FARCIS AU AU cRAS GRAS - pare Pare and and trim trim the the ARTTcHAUTS artichokes. Blanch Blanch for for 5 5 minutes minutes in in boiling boiling salted salted water. water. artichokes. or leave leave under under a a running running tap tap to to cool; cool; Plunge into into cold cold water water or Plunge drain and and remove rem ove the the choke. choke. drain Season, stuff stuff as as desired, desired, wrap wrap them them in in a a thin thin rasher, rasher, or or Season, offat fat bacon, bacon, and and tie tie with with string. string. Melt Melt some sorne butter butter in in a a slice, of slice, put in in finely finely shredded shredded bacon, bacon, onions onions and and carrots, carrots, sautpan, pan, put saut6 and place place the the artichokes artichokes on on this this foundation. foundation. Season Season and and add add and a bouquet bouquet garni garni (q.v.). (q.v.). a and a a small small quantity quantity of ofwhite white wine wine until until Simmerin in butter butter and Simmer isalmost almostcompletely completely boiled boileddown; down; then then add add a a few few theliquor liquor is the tablespoons of of veal veal stock stock and and cook cook in in a a moderate moderate oven oven tablespoons Gas Mark Mark 4), 4), with with the the lid lid on on the thepan pan for for 55 55 180C. (350'F., (350F., Gas 180"C. to 60 60 minutes. minutes. Baste Baste frequently frequently during during cooking. cooking. to Drainthe theartichokes, artichokes,remove rem ove string stringand and bacon, bacon,and andplace place Drain onaadish. dish. Strain Strainthe theliquor liquorin inwhich whichthey theywere were theartichokes artichokeson the cooked and and skim skim off off surplus surplus fat. fat. Stlain Strain again, again, add'Demiadd Demicooked (seeSAUCE), SAUCE),veal vealstock stockor orany anyother othersauce, sauce,according according glace(see glace

48 48

ARTICHOKE ARTICHOKE

to to the the recipe. recipe. Boil Boil down down the the liquor liquor and and pour pour over over the the artichokes. artichokes. Large Large braised braiscd artichokes artichokes stuffed stulfed au au maigre maigre (without (without meat). meat). GROS ARTICHAUTS ARTICHAUTS snalsfs BRAiSS FARCIS fARCIS AU AU MAIGRE MAIGRE - Proceed Proceed as as cRos described above, above, leaving leaving out out the the bacon bacon and and replacing replacing veal veal described stock by by vegetable vegetable stock. stock. stock braised artichokes. Ilrtichokes. pETITs PETITS ARTIcHAUTs ARTICHAUTS nnusfs BRAJSS Small braised These These are are served served as as a a garnish garnish and and as as a a vegetable. vegetable. Choose Choose very very young young small small artichokes; artichokes; pare pare them, them, trim trim offthe off the stalks stalks evenly and rub rub the the bottoms bottoms with with lemon; lemon; blanch blanch in boiling boiling water water to to and which which has has been been added added salt salt and vinegar. vinegar. Dip Dip in in cold water water to cool, and and drain. drain. Place Place them, them, bases bases downwards, downwards, in in a buttdred buttered cool, saut pan, pan, or or heavy heavy frying frying pan, pan, on ona foundation ofvegetables, ofvegetables, a foundation saute as described described in the the recipe recipe for for Large Large braised braised artichokes. artichokes. Cook as low heat with the lid on for about l0 10 minutes, minutes, and over a low finish cooking cooking as described described above. above. finish artichokes, and and use use as as indicated. indicated. Strain the Drain the artichokes, braising liquor, liqllor, reduce, reduce, skim off surplus fat, and pour this this braising sauce over the artichokes. artichokes. sauce Note. NOie. Small braised artichokes artichokes can also also be prepared au (without meat) by following following the instructions given maigre (without braised artichokes artichokes au maigre. maigre. for large braised put the artichokes saut One can put artichokes into a buttered sa ur pan withenough to out blanching, blancJng, provided provided one one works works quickly quickly enough out prevent their going black. Artichokes Clamart. ARTIcHAUTS ARTICHAUTS cLAMART CLAMART - Choose 12 Artichokes and put them in a artiehokes; trim trlm them and very small young artichokes; saute pan, or heavy frying pan, with plenty saut plenty of butter. Add cups) shelled fresh garden garden peas peas and 2 Add 225 g. (8 oz., 2 cups) shredded lettuce hearts. shredded hearls. Season Season with salt and sugar. Moisten (scant l Cook with the lid on, ~ cup) water. Cook with 3 tablespoons (seant of a tablespoon of simmering simmering gently. At the last moment, add a butter. fresh butter. vegetable, being delicate and fragile, can be prepared This vegctable, being delicate saute pan, or in an earthenware bi-melal or aluminium saut in a bi-metal same dish (to avoid or enamelware enamelware COCOlle, cocotte, and served in the same damage when transferring artichokes to a dish for table). transferring the archokes Artichokes Crey. ARTIcHAUTS CRCY cnfcv -- Proceed Proceed as Cr6cy. ARTICHAUTS Artichokes and lettuce deseribed described in the preceding recipe, replacing peas and by an an equal equal quantity of young peeled carrots. (Italian I l'infemo I'inferno (Hlllian Artichokes Artichokes Il I la la diable diable or or Careiofo Carciofo of onnrn ARrrcHAUrs A re LA DIABLE Ligiltly trim the tips of oookery). cookery). ARTICHAUTS - Lightly Remove the choke, very tender, tender, medium-sized artichokes. Remove very mixture ofbrcadof breadblanch and drain. Fill the artichokes with a mixture chopped garlic, capers and parsley, and season with crumbs, chopped sal t and pepper. salt pan with packing them in closely. Put into into a saut6 pan with oil, them in Put a saut oil, packing generously with olive oil and season again. in again. Cook in Sprinkle generously the'oven, uncovered, basting frequently. When cooked, the the oyen, uncovered, at the the tips. artichokes should be be crisp at tips. sprinkle with the the oil in which they they on a a dish dish and and sprinkle Arrange on were cooked. cooked. Trim Dricd Dried artichokes. coNsBnvE D'ARTICHAUTS D'ARTIcHlurs SCHS sfcufs -- Trim artichokes. CONSERVE in water water to to artichokes and and blanch them them for for 5 5 minutes in the the artichokes juice has which lem on juice lemon has been been added. added. put to dry sun, or in a a slow slow them, and and put dry on on trays in the sun, Drain them, (They can dried in the oyen. also be threaded oven. (They threaded on on a a string string and and dried the can also open open air.) air.) preserving artichokes, the blanching For For this this method of of preserving artichokes, the particles would would water must must not salted, otherwise otherwise saline saline partieles not be be salted, water humidity and and thereby artichokes, drawing drawing humidity thereby impregnate the the artichokes, preventing desiccation. desiccation. Fried artichokes hearts fried in Fried artichokes See below below Artichoke Artichoke hearts fried in - See baller. batter. These can Artichoke frilters. fritters. BEIGNETS BEIcNETS D'ARTICHAUTS D'ARTIcHAUTS -- Thcse be can be Artichoke (See HORSHORSas hors-d'uvre or as as a a vegetable. vegetable. (See served served as hors-dauvre or D'(EUVRE, F"rillers.) D'UVRE, Fritters.) LyoNNAIsE A LA ra LYONNAISEArtichokes Artichokes la lyonnaise. lyonnaise. ARTICHAUTS ARTIcHAUTs i la
49 49

Proceed Proceed as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for Artichokes Artichokes barigoule, barigoule, replacing replacing the the daxelles duxelles mixture mixture by by sausage sausage meat meat with with a a

quarter quarter of of its its weight weight of of chopped, chopped, lightly lightly fried fried onion onion and and chopped chopped parsley parsley added added to 10 it. il. Artichokes Articbokes I la la mdnagbre. mnagre. ARTIcHAUTs ARTICHAUTS A LA LA rrafr.r,{cins MNAGRE Proceed Proceed as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for Artichokes Artichokes barigoule, barigoule, replacing replacing the the &txelles duxelles mixture mixture by by chopped chopped boiled boiled beef beef mixed mixed with with finely finely shredded shredded fresh fresh bacon bacon and and chopped chopped parsley. parsley. Artichokes ARTICHAUTS MIREPoIX MIREPOIX - Put Put 12 12 small small Artichokes mirepoix. mirepoix. ARTIcHAUTS artichokes, artichokes, prepared prepared as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for Artichokes Artichokes Clamart, Clamart. into into a saut6 saut pan pan on a foundation foundation of of 2 2 dl. dl. $ H pint, pint, scant seant cup) cup) Vegetable Vegetable mirepoix mirepoi.x (see (see MIREPOIX), MIREPOIX), mixed mixed with 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) lean lean ham ham cut eut into into tiny tiny dice. dice. Simmer for 5 minutes minutes over a low low flame, flame, keeping keeping the the pan pan uncovered. uncovered. Moisten Moisten with 4 4 tablespoons tablespoons (* 0 cup) white white wine. wine. Simmer for for 5 5 minutes, minutes, add I 1 dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons. scant seant i t cup) cup) veal veal stock, cover caver with with a lid lid and simmer for for 35 35 minutes. minutes. Serve Serve in in a a vegetable vegetable dish. Pour Pour the the mirepoix mirepoix over over the the artichokes, artichokes, and sprinkle sprinkle with chopped parsley. parsley. Pickled Pickled artichokes. artichokes. coNSERvE CONSERVE D'AnrIcHAUTs D'ARTICHAUTS - Trim Trim freshly gathered gathered artichokes. Put them, whole whole or or in in quarters, quarters, added. Blanch in water to which lemon lemon juice juice has been added. Blanch them them of salt. Allow in salted salled water, water, allowing l0 10 per per cent ofsalt. Allow l0 10 minutes minutes for whole artichokes artichokes and 5 minutes for for quarters. quarters. Drain Drain and and refresh refresh in cold water. Drain them again, again, put into into cans, and pour pour in the the following following pickling brine: (4 gallons, 5 gallons) For 20 litres (4 gallons) water, I 1 kg. kg. (21b.) (21b.) wellwellrefined (3 tablespoons) lemon lemon juice. juice. refined salt and 2 tablespoons (3
time Cooking Cooki.ng time lime Cooking lime ( 230" F.) in a bain-marie I JOc. l0'C. (230F.) Weight of of cans wilh J Weighl cans with canning kettle pressure sleriliser steriliser or canning keltle

(l lb.) 500 g. (1
(2{ lb.) I kg. (2! 1

30 minutes 30 40 minutes

I hour hour 1

(ai lb.) 2 ke. kg. (4t

A LA LA GRECQUE cRECeue -

minutes minutes 60 minutes

l| hours 1 hours
2 hours 2 hours

o'ARTICIIAUTS grecque. CONSERVE coNsERvE D'ARTICHAUTS la grecque. i la Pickled artichokes il pickle for arti for which which only only small ar!iThis is is a a pickJe - This to be cut into have ta artichokes have chokes are are used. used. Large chokes Large artichokes be cul into ofthis hors-d'euvre. the aspect of which changes the quarters, wlch this hors-d' uvre. of the the same small anichokes artichokes of 100 sma]] trim 100 Method. Pare Pare and and lrim following into the following them ioto are trimmed, trimmed, plunge them size. As they are size. mixture : previously prepared mixture: (scant pint, (4t quarts, quarts) water; pint, quarts, 5| quarts) dl. (seant water; 5 5 dl. 5 litres 5 litres (41 I teaspoon 1| coriander; 1 teaspoon 2f cups) oil; 1 olive oil; cups) olive 2~ t tablespoons coriander; garni large bouquet peppercorns; 11a large bouquet garni l* tablespoons salt; a tablespoons salt; peppercorns; leaf, fennel fennel and and a a slalk celery; of celer)'; stalk of composed of of thyme, bay bay leaf, composed juice of a muslin muslin bag. 10 lemons lemons strained through a and the juice of JO strained through and for 8 and continue boiling boiling for 8 Bring the artichokes to to the the boil boil and the artichokes 10 minutes. minutes. to 10 to quarters), (20 artichoke quantity (20 artichoke hearts hearts or or quarters), a smaller smaller quanty For a (HORS-D'GUVRE, Cold grecque (HORS-D'UVRE, la grecque d la Artichokes see Arlichokes see minutes. for 8 8 to to 10 l0 minutes. hors-d'euvre). Cook Cook for hors-d'uvre). large earthenware with their liquor, to to a a large earthenware Transfer them, with their Iiquor, Transfer (2- or lJb.) into 11- or or t-litre or l-lb.) cool. Put Put into crock and and allow allow to to cool. crock |Jitre (2finger within the the width width of of a a finger Fill with with the the liquor liquor lo to within cans. FilJ cans. hermetically. from the the top. top. Seal Seal hermetieally. from (l-lb.) for the~-litre the flitre (l-lb.) Place in in a boil 20 minutes minutes for a boiler, and and boil20 Place (2-lb.) cans. cans. l-litre (2-lb.) cans and and 30 30 minutes minutes for for the the I-litre cans HORS-D'GUVRE. poivrade -- See See HORS-D'UVRE. Ia poivrade Artichokes i la Articbokes punfE D'ARTICHAUTS garnish. PURE D'ARTIcHAUTS -for gamish. Pur6e of of artichokes artichokes for Pure vegetable courlcourtin aa white white vegetable hearts in Half-cook artichoke artichoke hearts Half-cook a fine fine (q.v.), and through a Rub through in butter. butter. Rub bouillon (q.v.), and simmer simmer in bouillon

st

ARTICHOKE ARTICHOKE
Artichoke bearts hearts la lacrme. crbme.FONDS FoNDsD'ARTICHAUTS D'ARTTcHAUTs ALA LA Articboke c,ntrr,rs- - Proceed Proceed as Assoon asabove. above. As soonas asthe artichoke hearts theartichoke hearts CRME pour boiIing are cooked, cooked,pour boilingcream cream over them.Simmer overthem. Simmerdown downby by are half.Transfer Transfer the theartichoke artichoke hearts vegetable dish. heartsto toaavegetable dish.Add Add half. thesauce, sauce,strain pourover butter to to the strain it, it, and andpour overthe theartichokes. artichokes. butter prepared cream A prepared cream sauce saucecan canalso alsobe pouring over forpouring beused usedfor A over (seeSAUCE, thehearts hearts (see SAUCE, Cream Crearnsauce). sauce). the Artichoke bearts heartsfines fines berbes. herbes. FONDS o'AnrrcH^q,urs FINES FoNDSD'ARTICHAUTS FINES Articboke HERBEs -- Blanch Blanch lightly, lightly, slice, slice, and andfry fryin in butter butterin inaashallow shallow HERBES pan. Transfer Transfer to vegetable dish, toaavegetable dish,and andsprinkle sprinkle with withchopped pan. chopped parsley. cherviland and parsley. chervil

Preparing artichoke artichoke hearts (Scarnati) hearts (Scarnali) Preparing

in the the recipe. recipe. If If required, required, thicken thicken its its consistency consistency by by adding adding in potato pure. an equal equal amount amount of pur6e. of potato an punfn D'ARTIPuree of of articbokes artichokes soubise soubis6e for garnlshes. PURE for garnisbes. D'ARTrPure cHAurs SOUBISE sorJBrsfE -- Proceed Proceed as as described preceding described in in the the preceding CHAUTS recipe. Add Add to to the pur6e one the artichoke artichoke pure one third third of of its its volume volume of of recipe. (see PURE). Onion soubise soubise (see PUREE). Onion Artichoke salad salad -- See See SALAD, SALAD, Mixed Mixed salads. salads. Artichoke Artichoke souffl soufr6 -- See See SOUFFLS, SOUFFLES, Souffl Soffii of of various various Articboke vegetables. vegetables. Artichoke stalks. stalks. MOELLE MoELLE D'ARTICHAUT D'ARTTcHAUT Peel the the stalks stalks of of Articboke - Peel large artichokes, artichokes, taking taking care care to to remove remove ail all the the woody woody large casing. Cut them into sticks sticks 5 (2 inches) 5 cm. cm. (2 inches) long. long. Blanch Blanch in in casing. salt water water flavoured with lemon. lemon. salt artichoke stalks prepared stalks can can be prepared When they are blanched, artichoke in various ways; simmered simmered in in butter butter or or cream cream in in a a covered covered in pan; infritots (q.v.); infritols (q. (q.v.); curried; with d la grecque (q.v.); gravy. with gravy. pan; v.); ARTICHOKE FoNDs D'ARTICHAUTSD'ARrrcHAUrs - Artichoke ARTICHOKE HEARTS. FONDS prepared as hearts as described described below below can can be be served served as as a a hearts prepared vegetable as a a garnish. When sliced sliced and and blended with a a blended with vegetable or as sauce, brown, they should be be served a vegetable served in a sauce, white or brown, dish, in a gratin (q.v.), timbale, in a dish, or or in a croustade (q.v.), timbale, or or gratin dish, dish, in a vol-au-vent preparation of of the hearts heart s see Artichoke vol-au-vent cases. For preparation see Artichoke hear ts in cour t-bouillon below. below. hearts court-bouillon Artichoke hearb i I'allemande. FONDS FoNDs D'ARTICHAUTS D'.enrrcsaurs A Articboke hearts l'allemande. L'ALLEMANDE the artichokes lightly and and stew L'ALLEMANDE - Blanch Blanch the stew in butter. a vegetable vegetable dish dish and and coyer butter. Transfer Transfer into into a cover with Allemande sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). If If the artichoke artichoke hearts are too big, cut them into slices. Ardcloke roNps D'ARTICHAUTS o',mrrcpllr.rs Artichoke hearb bearts i la bechamel. bchamel. FONDS A LA ul sfcHAl'Gr (see using Bichamel BCHAMEL - Proceed Proceed as as above, above, using Bchamel sauce (see sAUCE). SAUCE). Artichoke ror.rDs D'ARTICHAUTS Articboke hearts cooked cooked in butter - FONDS D'ARTTcHAUTs fruvfs.q,u TUVS AU seuRREBEURRE- Pare and and trim trim the artichokes artichokes as described described in Rub them with lemon, and blanch for 10 in the next next recipe. recipe. Rub l0 minutes minutes in boiling salt salt water water to which which a few drops of lemon juice juice have have been been added. added. Drain, put the artichokes artichokes in a well-buttered well-buttered saut6 saut pan, season, cook with the lid on season, sprinkle sprinkle with with melted melted butter, butter, and cook the the pan pan for 18 to to 25 25 minutes, minutes, according according to their size. Use as as indicated indicated in in the the recipe recipe chosen. chosen. Artichoke Articboke hearts bearts in court-bouillon. court-bouillon. roNos FONDS D'ARTTcHAUTs D'ARTICHAUTS AU AU BLANc BLANC - Strip off off the the outside leaves Ieaves on medium-sized artichokes. artichokes. Trim Trim them them as as evenly evenly as as possible, possible, leaving leaving only only the fleshy fleshy middle middle part. part. Remove Remove the the choke, trim the hearts and rub Put into into cold water water as each one is is rub them them with with lemon. lemon. Put trimmed. trimmed. Cook Cook the the hearts hearts in in boiling boiling white white vegetable vegetable court-bouillon court-bouillon (q.v.).They (q.v.). They can can be he blanched blanched or or cooked cooked until until soft, according according to Drain well. weil. to the the final final dish dish chosen. chosen. Drain
50 50

sieve. Heat Heat the puree and the pure and add add butter butter or or cream, cream, as as directed directed sieve.

If the young and the artichokes artichokes are are very veryyoung tender, slice slicethem them and tender, If rawand and fry fry in in butter beforesprinkling butterbefore sprinkling with with the thechervil cherviland and raw parsley. parsley. Artichoke bearts hearb fried frid in inbatter. batter. FONDS FoNDs D'ARTICHAUTS D'ARTTcHAUTSEN Articboke E[.r FRrror -- Blanch Blanch the the artichoke artichoke hearts, FRITOT hearts, slice slicethem, them, and and juice, salt, marinate in in oil, oil, lemon lemon juice, pepperand marinate salt,pepper and fines herbes finesherbes (q.v.).When required, dip dip them (g.v.). When required, them in in batter batter and anddeep-fry. deep-fry. Drain, season season with with fine fine salt, salt, arrange Drain, arrange them in aaheap them in heap on onaa folded napkin, garnish with napkin, and parsley. and garnish with fried folded frid parsley. Gamishd artichoke artichoke bearts. hearts. FONDS Garnisbed FoNDs D'ARTICHAUTS D'ARTIcHAUTs GARNIScARNrs Artichoke hearts principally asaa garnish hearts used garnish for used principallyas Artichoke for hot hot and and dishes can can be cold dishes be filled filled with with various cold various mixtures. mixtures. Here Here are are the the main ingredients ingredients which which can main for hot can he be added added to to them: them: for hot dishes, dishes, the artichoke artichoke hearts, hearts, cooked the cooked in in white white vegetable vegetable courtcourt(q.v.) and bouillon (q.v.) and simmered bouillon simmered in in butter, are filled butter, are filled at at the last the last moment with with vegetables vegetables or moment or other other ingredients, ingredients, but are not but are not put in in the put the oyen oven to to brown brown the the tops recommended for as recommended tops as for stuffed artichoke artichoke hearts. stuffed hearts. Artichoke hearts Artichoke hearts intended garnish for intended as as a a garnish for cold cold dishes dishes are are cooked cooked in in this this court-bouillon, court-bouillon, drained, drained, dried, dried, and and filled filled with with various vegetables vegetables which various which have have been set in in ajelly. a jelly. Or been set Or they they can can be seasoned seasoned with he with vinaigrette, vinaigrette, mayonnaise mayonnaise or or other other salpicons salpicons (q.v.). (q.v.). jelly or Artichoke hearts hearts can can also also be be covered covered with with aspic or aspic jelly (see SAUCE). Chaud-froid Chaud-froid sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Filled garnish for Filled articboke artichoke bearts hearts as as garnish for cold cold disbes dishes -- Fill Fill the the hearts hearts with with various various butters pounded with butters which which have have been been pounded with any any of of the following: caviare, the following: caviare, shrimps, crayfish and shrimps, crayfish and other other shellfish, shellfish, hard-boiled eggs, pur6es, various eggs, fish fish and and shellfish various shellfish pures, salpicons, etc. etc. Filled Filld articboke garnish for artichoke bearts hearts as as garnisb for bot hot dishes dir*es -- AnverAnversoise: eu il : pure soise: hop pure of hop shoots shoots in in cream; cream; argent argenteuil: of white white asparagus; pur6e of asparagus; bretonne: bretonne: pure of kidney kidney beans; beans; Compoint: Compoint: pur6e of pure green asparagus; of green pur6e; cossaise: asparagus; Conti: Conti; lentil lentil pure; Ccossaise: (q.v.) of carrots, celery, brunoise (q.v.) celery, French French beans beans and and onions; onions; macdoine macidoine of vegetables vegetables in in butter; princess: asparagus asparagus tips tips and and diced diced truffies; truffies; Saint-Germain: Saint-Germain: pure purfie of garden of fresh fresh garden peas; peas; thick thick sauces sauces such such as as barnaise, biarnaise, Choron, Choron, Henri Henri IV, IV, paloise; Vichy: carrots (For sauces d la Vichy. (For sauces see see SAUCE.) SAUCE.) Articboke bearts Artichoke herrts la hollandaise. i la hltadaise. FONDS FoNDs D'ARTICHAUTS D'ARTTcHAUTS COURTA LA rA HOLLANDAISEnorr,c,NDArsE- Cook in (srCOURTin Court-bouillon IV (see BOUILLON), BOUILLOI$, drain, drain, put in a a vegetable dish and and coyer cover with Hollandaise sauce (see (se,e SAUCE). SAUCE). Artichoke Artichoke hearts Mornay. FONDS FoNDs D'ARTICHAUTS D'ARTTcHAUTs MORNAYMoRNAy Sim mer in Simmer in butter in a pan. Put a covered covered pan. in a a fireproof Put in fireproof dish dish which has has been (see SAUCE). been coated coated with with Mornay Mornay sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Coyer the artichoke hearts Cover the hearts with with the the same same sauce, sauce, sprinkle Parmesan cheese with grated Parmesan cheese and melted butter, and and brown brown the top. Pickled artichoke articboke hearts. bearts.CONSERVE Pickled coNsERvE DE DE FONDS FoNDs D'ARTID'ARTICHAUTS - Choose Choose small, small, tender artichokes. Trim cHAUTSTrim them them with with a a and put them as special peeler or by hand and as they are are trimmed trimmed into water water with with lemon lemon juice juice added. Blanch them into added. Blanch them for for 5 5 (8 per per cent cent solution). minutes in salted water (8 solution). Drain, Drain, and and refresh in cold water. refresh Drain again, again, put put into cans, cans, and and pour pour over over the the same same picklpicklDrain as for Pickled Pickled artichokes artichokes (see (see above). above). brine as ing brine

ARTOIS ARTOIS AND AND BOULONNAIS BOULONNAIS

Weight Weight of of cans

cans

Cooking time

Cooking Cooking time time in in a a bain-marie bain-marie or or pressure canning pressure steriliser steriliser ketlle canning kettle

110'C.

with (230"F.)

described stock). stock). Proceed Proceed as as "but described in in the the recipe recipe for for artichoke artichoke quarters in butter, buttcr,but finish finish off off with with lemon lemon juice juice and and

chop@fines herbes. herbes.

500 e. g. (l (1 lb.) lb.) 500

20 20 minutes minutes
30 30

40 40 minutes minutes
60 60 minutes minutes

kg. (2t (2i lb.) lb.) I1ke.

minutes minutes

ftavouroo rith with Onion On ion soubise soubise (see (sec PUREE). PURE). Sprinkle Sprinkle with with flavoured grated grated Parmesan Parmesan cheese cheese and and melted meltcd butter, butter, and and brown brown the the top. hearts sfuffed stufl'ed la la chalonnaise. chaJonuaise. roNps FONDS D'ARrID'ARTIArtichoke hearts CHAUT'S FARcrs FARCIS A . r,l LA cnlr,oNNAIsE CHALONNAlSE - As As above, above. with with Salpicon Salpicon cHAUTs ci h la chalornaise chalonnaise (see (sec SALPICON). SALPICON). d Artichoke Articboke heorts bearts strffed stuffed i la la duxelles. duxeUes. FoNDs FONDS D'ARTIcHAUTS D'ARTICHAUTS fARCIS A r-l LA puxsrrns DUXELLES - As As above, with wth very very thick thck duxelles duxelles FARcrs (q.v.). (q.v.). Artichoke hearts strffed stutied la la florentine. florentine. FoNDs FONDS D'ARrID'ARTIArtichoke CHAUTS FARcrs FARCIS A LA rronrNTINE FLORENTINE - Simmer the the artichoke artichoke cHALns hearts in in butter, butter, and and fill fi.!1 themwith them with spinach spnach that that has has also also been been hearts Slmmered in butter. buttcr. Pour Pour Mornay Mornay sauce sauce (see SAUCE) over simmered artichokes, sprinkle spr:inkle with grated cheese, cheese, and brown brown the the artichokes, top. IvelnD.aS<e, roNDs FONDS D'ARTIcHAUTS D'AR TI CH A UTS Artichoke hearts stuffed i la lyonnaise. FARCIS A LA rvoNlqltsn LYONNAISE - As above. Stuff Stuff the artichokes with FARcIs sausage which have have been been lightly lightly sausage meat and chopped onion which

and simmer sim mer in in butter. butter. Garnish Gamish with with a a Chestnut Chestnut purie pure and

Artichoke Articboke hearts bearts stuffed stuffed i la la o6venole. cvenole. FoNDs FONDS D'ARTIcHAUTS D' ARTICHAUTS FARcrs FARCIS A Lrq, LA cfvsNore CVENOLE - Blanch Blanch the the artichoke articboke hearts, hearts, drain, drain,

quarters fried in Artichoke Ar1IlCI110}{e(11.I1IlrtE~rslmetl inbatter. batter. QUARTIERS QUARTIERSD'ARTIcHA{rrs D'ARTICHA1.JTS artichoke quarters. Trim, blanch blanch and and marinate marinatc'artichoke quarters. - Trinn, Proceed Proceed as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for Artichoke Artichoke heartsfried in in batter. batter. Artichoke Artichoke quarters qllllrters i la la grecque. grecque. QUARTIERS QUARTIERS D'ARTIcHAUTS D'ARTICHAUTS A Le LA cneceue GRECQUE - Trim Trim artichoke artichoke quarters, quarters, and and proceed proceed as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for Pickled Pickled artichokes artichokes d la la grecque. grecque. These These are are served served as as cold cold hors-deuvre. hors-d'uvre. Artichoke Artichoke quarters quarters I'italienne. l'italienne. QUARTIERS QUARTIERS D'AnrIcttAUTs D'ARTlCHA1.JTS A t'tr^lttBlttu L'ITALIENNE - Proceed Proceed as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for Artichoke Artichoke quarters quarters aux aux fines fines herbes. herbe.L Finish Finish off off with with ltalian /talian sauce (see SAUCE). SA UCE). sauce (w Artichoke Artichoke quarters au jus. QUARTIERS QUARTIERS D'ARTIcHAUTS D'ARTtCHAUTS AU AU JUs JUS - Proceed as as described in in the the recipe for for Artichoke Artichoke quarters quarters auxfines aux fines herbes, herbes, but but omit omit the the herbs. Artichoke Articboke quarters quarters I la la lyonnaise. QUARTIERS QU AR TIERS D'ARTIcHAUTS D'AR TTCH AUTS A r,l LA lvoNrqllseL YONNAISE- Proceed as as describedfor described for Artichoke Artichoke quarters quarlers aux aux fines fines herbes. herbes. Finish Finish off off with wth Lyonnaise LYDnnaise sauce sauce (see (see
EN EN FRrror FRITOT -

ll

fried in butter. t la niEoise. nioise. FoNDS FONDS o'ARTIcHAUTS D'AR TlCHAUTS Articboke hearts be.arts stuffed il Artichoke FARCIS A ra LA Ntqotsn - Blanch the artichoke hearts, hearts, fry them FARcIs Tomatofon&te fil! with Tomato fondue (see TOMATO). Sprinkle in oil, and fill and brown the top. with breadcrumbs and melted butter, butter, and FoNDs D'ARTIcHAUTS Pi6montaise. FONDS hearts stufTed stuffed Pimontaise. Artichoke Artichoke be.arfs D' ARTICHAUTS p$ilroNratss covered pan. PIMONTAISE - Simmer in butter in a covered (see RICE). RICE), sprinkle Pidmontaise (see d la la Pimontaise Fill with with Risotto Risotto Fill the top. and brown the with grated Parmesan cheese, and o'ARTIcHAUTS FoNDs D'ARTICHAUTS hearb stu1Jed stuffed Soubise. FONDS Artichoke bearts isee soLJBrsE As above, above. with a a thick soubise (see FARcIs SOUBISE thick Onwn Onion soubise - As PUREE).
D'ARrIcHAUrs -ARTICHOKE ARTICHOKE QUARTERS. QUARTIERS D'ARTICHAUTS QUARTERS. QUARTIERS into and cul cut them iuto Pare Pare and and Irim trim medium-sized artichokes and and blanch with lemon, and quarters. Trim Trim them carefully, rub with juice lemon juice salt and and lemon water ta to which salt 6 minutes in in boiling water for 6 drain and drain running tap and a cold cold running added. Cool have been been added. Cool under a quite dry. until dry. until quite section, in this this section, specific recipes given in addition to to the the specifie ln In addition of those and sorne some of given for for small small artichokes, and most most of of tbose those given artichoke applied to to artichoke be applied given for can be hearts, ean artichoke hearts, given for artichoke quarters. quarters. AU D'ARTIcHAUTS AU quarters in in but1er. butter. QUARTIERS Articboke Artictoke quarters QUARTIERS D'ARTICHAUTS put them a in a them in quarters of and put of 6 6 artichokes artichokes and BEURRE BEURR-E -- Blanch quarters tablewith 3 3 tablepan. Season, moisten with Season, and and moisten heavy pan. well-buttered well-buttered heavy (scant * cup) a tablespoon of with a tablespoon of water. Sprinkle Sprinkle with spoons cup) water. spoons (seant lid and and simmcr with a a lid simmer cover with to the the boil, boil, coyer melted melted butter, butter, bring to pouring dish, pouring in a a vegetable dish, gently for Serve in for 30 30 1035 to 35 minutes. Serve pan over over the from the the artichokes. the pan the juices from quarters aux herbes alx fines fines herbes -. QUARTIERS Artichoke Artichoke quartcrs QUARTTERS for recipe for as in in the the reeipe Prepare as HERBEsAux FINES FINEs HERllES D'ARTICHAlITS - Prepare D'ARTIcHArns AUX dish. Dilute Dilute vegetable dish. Put in in a a vegetable butter. Put Arlichoke in buller. Artichoke quarters in white scant t pan juices wilh I dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant with 1 the the pan ;| cup) while cup) 3 tablespoons(scant tablespoons (scant * cup) down. Add 3 wine, and boil boil down. moments. Strain trus this a fcw few moments. for a and boil veal stock boil for th.!cl(ien~~ stock and thickened veal drops a few few drops melted butter, I tablespoon butter, a it 1 sauce, and add add to to it tablespoon melted sauce, and (q.v')' juice and herbs (q.v.). I tablespoon choppedlnes herbs lemon juice and 1 tablespoon choppedfines of of lemon quarters. artichoke quarters. over the the artichoke Pour Pour the the sauce sauoe over (without prepared au also he Nore. This This recipe aumaigre recipe can can also be prepared NOle. maigre (without

sAUCE). SAUCE). Artichoke la la moelle. moelle. QUARTIERS QUARTIERS D'ARTIcHAUTS D'ARTTCHAlITS Artichoke quarters quarters i A rl LA noer,rr MOELLE - Cook the the artichoke artchoke quarters quarters as as described described for for thoseaujus. tbose aujus. Finish Finish offwith offwith Marrow Marrow sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE), SAUCE), and and garnish gamish with with thin Ihin slices slices of of bone-marrow bone-marrow which which have have been been poached poached and drained. drained. Artichoke Artichoke quarters quarters i la la portugaise. QUARTIERS QUARTIERS poRTUGAIsE - Simmer the D'AnrrcHAUTs D'ARTICHAUTS A LA LA PORTUGAISE the quarters quarters in in 4 4 (scant oil, together tablespoons (* (1 cup) cup) oil, together with with 3 3 tablespoons tablespoons (seant and pounded Addzpeeled l cup) cup) chopped chopped onions. onions. Add 2 peeled and pounded tomatoes, tomatoes, * Cook in chopped parsley. and a a little lillie grated grated garlic garlic and and chopped parsley. Cook in an an gently. Serve a vegetable vegetable dish dish Serve in uncovered pan, simmering gently. in a chopped parsley. and sprinkle with witb choppcd parsley.

lnrrcrulur D'HryER WINTER. ART1CHAlIT ARTICHOKT'., WlNTER. ARTlCHOKE. D'HIVER (q.v.). artichoke (q.v.). name for for Jerusalem artiehoke name

Another Another

TREE. BREADFRUIT TREE. See BREADFRUIT mrocmps -- See ARTOCARPUS. ARTOCARPE principal food refood rcThe principal AI\D BOULONNAIS BOLJLONNAIS ARTOIS AND - The ARTOIS sea. province of from the the sea. France come come from of France ancient province sources ofthis of this ancient sources port in in France, France, fishing port most important important fishing Boulogne is is the the most Boulogne Whole eonvoys convoys mackerel. Whole and mackerel. of herring herring and supply of with the best best supply with (gurnard) and gurnet (gurnard) and herring, gurnet mackerel, herring, lorries carrying carrying mackerel, of lorries of fish fish with supplies supplies of day with every day leave this this seaport seaport every other fish fish leave other parts of France. of France. all parts for a11 and is damp damp and rather variable, variable, is region, rather this region, climate of of this The climate The is found found growing, so much fruit fruit is not much fruit growng, so nol for fruit not suitable suitable for not is the the with br, beer, is together with apples. Cider, Cider, together except eider cider apples. there, excepl there, region. of the the region. main beverage of good vegetables. produce very vegetables. gardens produ very good Artois market market gardens Artois particularly fine. Good fine. Good are particularly around Saint-Omar Those from from around Saint-Omar are Those poultry produced in in Artois; Artois; but quality beef and but poultry mutton are are produced and mutton quality quality. of average quality. and game are only of and Magnificent all kinds. kinds. -'Y.l.G'5""'"'''''' fish of of ail Rivers and ponds abound in fish rivers, small coastal rivers, of the the small in the the estuar:ies estuaries of is found io salmon is salmon great delicacy. delicacy. flesh of of great with ftesh trout with and, in in the the Canche, Canche, trout and, very numerous. not very numerous. These are are not specialities -- These Culinary special.ities and shcllfish. shellfish. fish aod on seafood seafood -- fish are based based on of them them are Almost all of Almost arc andouilles andouilles (q.v.) regionare: principal specialities of of the the region The principal The saucisses de such as as saucisses charcuterie sucb d'Arras and and various charcuterie d'Arras (blood) puddings; puddWs; (country sa black (blood) sausages); campagne (country usages) ; black
Valenciennes tongue. popular in Artois in Artois very popular latter very the latter soup, the Beer soup soup and and leek soup, Beer and Flemish origin origin and a dish dish of of Flemish hotch-potch, a in Flanders; Flanders; hotcn-polCh, and in and dishes excellent dishes pdti of Montreuil-sur-Mer - excellent of Montreuil-sur-Mer woodcock pt woodcock prunes rabbit wilh with prunes wild rabbil made nowadays; nowadays; wild which are are not not often often made which goose dlaftamande; laflamande; Valenciennes; goose orraisins, raisins, a a speciality of Valenciennes; speciality of or

5l 51

ARUM MACULATUM MACULATUM ARUM

ffi

kl
Port of of Boulogne. Boulogne. On On the the lefl: left: trawler trawlerharbour. harbour.On On lhe right: harbour theright: harbourfor forsmaller smaller fishing fishingvessels vessels(Percevaf) (percevaf Pon

eel; the the caudire caudiire de de Berck, Berck, a a kind kind of matelote similar of matelote similar jellied eel; to the the chaudre chaudrie of of A Aunis. unis. to There is is naturally naturally a a whole whole range range of of fish fish dishes, dishes, from from There mackerel d la la boulonnaise boulonnaise to to more more complicated complicated disbes dishes made made mackerel of various various kinds kinds of of sea sea fish: fish: burbot, burbot, turbot, turbot, striped striped mullet, mullet, of (green pollack), smelt, coal-fish coal-fish (green pollack), bass, bass, sole, sole, red mullet. skate. red mullet, skate. smelt, But Boulogne Boulogne is, is, above above a1l, all, the the town town of of herring herring and and But mackerel - this this can can be be traced traced back back to to the the ninth ninth century. century. The The mackerelherring industry industry herring dried, dried, smoked, pickled or smoked, pickled or sold sold - herring herring ready for for serving serving has assumed assumed enormous proportions. enormous proportions. - has ready Herring are prepared in are prepared in a a variety variety of of ways. ways. There There are are Herring bloaters, slightly slightly salted salted herring herring which which have have been been smoked; smoked; bloaters, salted herring proper; proper; smoked smoked herring herring called gmdnrmes; called gendarmes; sai ted herring kippers, cured cured and and split; split; herring herring pickled pickled in in white white wine; cured cured kippers, herring fillets in oil; oil; canned canned herring herring and preparations and other other preparations herring fi/lets in of this this fish fish which which are are eaten eaten as as hors-d'uvre hors-d'euvre. . of
DuDkirk
\\

jellied

Canned mackerel mackerelalso alsocome come from fromBoulogne, Canned Boulogne,and andare areoften often eaten as ashors-d'uvre. hors-d'euvre. eaten Among the pastries and the pastries and confectionery confectionery products products of Among of the the region are are the the Arras Arras hearts hearts and and caramels, caramelr, the region theLille Lille dlices, ddtices, the Cambrai Cambrai btises, b1tises, and and the Berck chiques. the Berck the chiques.

ARUM MACULA MACULATLTM This plant plant is ARUM TUM -- This is also also known known under under the names names of of lords lords and and ladies, ladies, cuckoo-pint, the cuckoo-pint, calfs calf s foot and footand wake-robin.In French it it is is known known as wake-robin. In French (pepperas chou-poivre chou-poivre-(peppercabbage) because because of of the the acridity acridity of cabbage) leaves and of its its leaves and roots. roots. In In the U.S.A. U.S.A. it it is is sometimes sometimes called ginger for the called wild wild ginger for the the same same reason. reason. The roots roots are are much much valued valued by The by the the Arabs, Arabs, who who cook cook them them on hot hot cinders. cinders. on ASAFOETIDA -- Resinous Resinous gwn gum of ASAFOETIDA of a a species species of of oriental oriental In spite spite of of its its offensive offensive smell, palm. In smell, some people in some people in the the East East
50 km.

. WII~ /J/a{Jresse woodcotk au fumer Bloaters. Wam

CramiQues~ChJQueS J Ban K ouckeborerom. Langues de char

Biscuits

\~

Green 80Up ~ Beer 1I0Up

..'
'

BELGIU
'" .Roub

Endiv,e',
Cauilllow~s
Mussels
Salted and smoked smoked herrings herrings Henings augratin gl'arln Herrings au Steaks Steaks /arcr's far~ Cider Sheep Cider Sheep

Cassel

St. Omer_ ---.~

Chlc:'en ala flamande Butter. Poultry Mt des Cats ehe~se ,Plum tan 'Ir Tourcoin~ Galettes

Mt. des Cal~ ch~ese

Haze\rouck

Juniper.. ,... Junlpcr Juniper

~~~[:leTouquet. ~ Paris-Plage
Caudidre,

leTouquet-

Wood
eets Frogs Frogs CrApes Crt!pes

ekplirs

.. LIr.r.F. AndoUJJf~rles. Taliburs O Bab/utes. Cracknel ..",} ::. Smoked tongues Tablettes aL au Sl/'op Tablettes siroo Cares, Sottisesand I Carrs. Sottises and Ddlices Dlices de de Lille L"le a Fif ed waflles. Filled waHles. Little Little euinouins QUlnQulnS

'.

ULLE.

Jeilied-ilgMontnmll

..-. -.! r?noo"'Bthune '''--'''' 4ndoul/eftes t.:, 1.::

f

\r

tt
Rabbit with with prunes Rabbit orunes or or raisins Goyre Smoked tongues, tongues. Goyere Smoked G~leau carpeaux carpeaux G6teau

Andou;elles

berckoises

St. Pol

a Lenr Lens

Hotch-potch

Do~~.
".

.Valencie~

Denain Denaln
Andouillettes Coeursdbrras Caramels

.. ". iFt.."'tt ".," Maubeuge

..

~,,,,,,.

.... \

s'i>~

'!i;l(0

... .-.

BEER

alelo,le de Sambre

RQo"

Cheese I(om Marville Marville CheeseJrom lamb Calves' Calves' sweetbreads, sweetbreads. Andouilles f I Trout. cravfisherayiish, BCtlses, Biscuits Trout, ! Avesnes.'rom Helpe. Che~se rom pe. Hel C h-e.ese Avefrreraf Irom Marv,lIeana from Maruille anb Maroilles ,9

PICARD PICARD Y Y
Gastronomic Gaslronomie map map of ofArtois Artois and and Boulonnais Boulonnais

...." . ,~ \s....::roir"' l* '.'! .. \O\~ ......,....-

52 52

ASPARAGUS
and Far Far East East use use it it as as a a condiment. condiment. The The Romans Romans added added it it and many dishes dishes under under the the name name of of sylphium sylphium or or silphion. silphion. to many to ASBESTOS. AMIANTE AMIANTE - Fibrous Fibrous mineral mineraI substance substance which which ASBESTOS. is found found in in eruptive eruptive rocks. rocks. Asbestos Asbestos fibres fibres are are sufficiently sufficiently is to be be plaited plaited and and woven. woven. The The principal principal characteristic characteristic flexible to flexible ofasbestos is its its incombustibility; incombustibility; a a piece piece of ofasbestic asbestic material material of asbestos is put put into into ablazingfire a blazing fire will will not not burn. burn. The properties properties of asbestos asbestos are are exploited exploited nowadays nowadays for for The kitchen stoves. stoves . Asbestos, Asbestos, being being a a bad bad the interiors interiors of kitchen the conductor, does not not absorb absorb heat. beat. Unlike metal, it it reflects reflects conductor, by radiation, radiation, and and the the maximum maximum of of heat heat is is obtained obtained with the by of fuel, fuel, which results results in a considerable saving of minimum of minimum expense. expense. ASCALAPHUS - He was was Pluto's Pluto's cook cook and the the guardian guardian of ASCALAPHUSaccording to to legend. legend. This This position position of of confidence Proserpine, according brought him him misfortune, for for he he incurred incurred the the enmity enmity of brought Ceres. Jupiter Jupiter had had agreed to return return Proserpine to Ceres, her Ceres. condition that that the the girl had eaten nothing during du ring mother, on condition mother, the infernal infernal regions. regions. Ascalaphus revealed revealed her sojourn in the her while that Proserpine had eaten six grains of pomegranate while she was there, and Ceres turned him into an owl because of she this indiscreet revelation. revelation. Minerva, to to console him him in in his this misfortune, took him bim under her protection. protection. misfortune,
FRNE - The young shoots shoots of of this tree can be eaten in a ASH. rn6Ns salado The seeds seeds are sometimes sometimes preserved. preserved. salad.
FRNETTE An economical drink which is drink which ASHDRINK. rn6Nerrp - An be health-giving. health-giving. Its basis is ash leaves, and the recipe said to be as follows: is as g. (lf oz.) Boil 75g. (3 oz., and 55 55 g.(li ash leaves and 75 g. (3 oz., 3 cups) ash

Argenteuil Argenteuil asparagus; asparagus ; Italian !talian asparagus asparagus or or purple purple Genoa Genoa asparagus ; white ; white asparagus; white Belgian Belgian asparagus asparagus; white German German asparagus' asparagus. There is also also green green asparagus, which is is sub-divided sub-divided into into two two types: asparagus types: small, used used for for garnishes garnishes and and known known as as asparagus tips, and large, which which is prepared prepared llke like Argenteuil Argenteuil asparagusasparagus. Early asparagus asparagus can be found in in France from from February February onwards, and is usually usually sold at high prices. priees. Method Method of of preparation. preparation. This is simple. Scrape, Scrape, or or better better still, peel peel the the asparagus, asparagus, wash wash and and tie tie into into medium-sized medium-sized salted water; water; of boiling bundles, and cook in a a fairly full pan pan of boiling salted bundles, and quart) generous quart) allow allow l| 1t teaspoons teaspoons salt per per litre litre (lf (1 t pints, pints, generous is cooked, drain the water. When When it it is the asparagus thoroughly thoroughly a special or on a and arrange arrange on a dish covered covered with a napkin, napkin, or a flat which is equipped with a asparagus fiat strainer. asparagus dish which depend20 minu minutes, from The cooking cooking period varies varies f rom 18 to 20 tes, dependnot be It should not ofthe ing on the size and nature of the asparagus. It be and tasteless. tasteless. it watery and overcooked, as as this renders it a !ittle little becomes season asparagus bec Note. At the end of the season ornes a short time water for for a a short fresh water into fresh and should be bitter, and be put into it has been cooked. Drain thoroughly. after il sauces. with various various sauces. served with Hot or cold asparagusis asparagus is served or cold Hot a running running is to be served served cold, it should be left under a When it is When tap to cool.

ing ing purposes purposes these these fall fall into into several several main main types; types: French French asparagus, wbich the the best best known known and and most most delicious delicious is is asparagus, of which

(5| pints, pints, 6!pints) water. roasted water. In in 3 litres (Si 6| pints) roasted chicory chicory in 3 litres (5+ lb.) another 40 g. lb.) sugar and 40 2i kg. sugar and vessel dissolve kg. (51 another vessel dissolve 2-!(3j pints, 4 (I-!(l\ oz.) 4| pints) water. oz) citric acid in 2 litres (3-!(l oz.) g. (1 then add 25 g. Mix the two liquids, leave to cool; oz.) add25 cool;then yeast dissolved a barrel. Add Add the whole into a dissolved in water. Pour the enough water to make 50 (l I gallons, 14 l4 gallons) and and 50 litres (II leave to fennent 12 days. ferment for for 12 Bottle the liquid, corking the in and store store in the bottles tightly, and a a cool cool place. The drink is of a certain certain amount amount of lemonade with a of lemonade is a kind of alcoholic content. content.
ASHES. combustion. Various Residue after after combustion. cENDRES -- Residue ASHES. CENDRES foods fire, notably notably ashes of a wood wood fire, in the the ashes of a cooked in are cooked foods are chestnuts, potatoes and and truffies. truffies. chestnuts, potatoes ASIALIA. in It occurs occurs in of saliva. saliva. It A deficiency deficiency of AsIALIE -- A ASIALIA. ASIALIE certain in certain certain nervous nervous conditions. conditions. certain diseases diseases and and in
- Forced ASITIA. Loss of desire for for food. food. ASITIEabstinence. Loss of desire ASITIA. ASITIE Forced abstinence.
asparagus Lauris asparagus,' asparagus/Argenteuil Lauris Argenteuil asparagus

ASPARAGUS. genus of Liliaceae, containing containing A genus of Liliaceae, ASPARAGUS. ASPERGE mpnncE -- A more and warm warm found in in temperate temperate and more than than a hundred species, species, found a hundred regions America. of Europe Europe and and America. regions of Asparagus places, grows wild wild in in meadows meadows and and bushy bushy places, Asparagus grows especially great part part of France, as as weil well of France, in sandy sandy soil, soil, over over a a great especially in as Mediterranean the Atlantic Atlantic and and the the Mediterranean as on on sandy sandy coasts coasts on on the sides. sides. In reign vogue during during the the reign In France, France, asparagus asparagus came came into into vogue of grow who was was the the first first to to grow Louis XIV, to Quintinie, of Louis XIV, thanks thanks to Quintinie, who asparagus He was was able supply the the royal royal for Le Roi Soleil. Soleil. He to supply able to asparagus for Le Roi kitchen year round. with asparagus all the the year round. kitchen with asparagus all Asparagus (common asparagus), has been been asparagus), has Asparagus officinalis fficinalis (common widely garden time immemorial immemorial as as aa garden since time widely cultivated cultivated since vegetable. young sprouts, either sprouts, or or shoots, shoots, are are eaten eaten either vegetable. Its Its young whole just the In Spain, i.e., the terminal buds. buds. In Spain, whole or or just the tips, tips, i.e., the terminal young young shoots have long, long, sharp sharp species, which which have shoots of of aa certain certain species, thorns also eaten. thorns on on the the stems, stems, are are also eaten. A great number for cookcookasparagus varieties varietiesexist, exist, but but for A great number of of asparagus 53 53

(l+ lb.) g. (Ii lb.) asparagus asparagus about 600 600 g. allow about speaking, allow Generally speaking, Generally (see SA person, served SAUCE). per person, with sauce sauce (see served with per UCE). This should should D'ASPERGEs -- This coNSERVE D'ASPERGES asparagus. CONSERVE Canned Canned asparagus. gathered asparagus. asparagus. freshly gathered with freshly not be attempted except except with be attempted not wash the the but do do not not wash carefully, but and dry dry carefully, the skin skin and Scrape off off the Scrape the as to to have have themall them all the so as ends evenly evenly so asparagus. Cut Cut off offthe the ends asparagus. stalks of of choosing stalks small bundles, bundles, choosing tie into into small same length, length, and and tie same cooking. even cooking. to ensure ensure even same thickness to the me thickness the sa prefor precan be be obtained obtained for asparagus can for asparagus Special Special boilers boilers for the for controlling controlling the with devices devices for are equipped equipped with serving; serving; these these are provided. Fill Fill the boiler, the boiler, basket provided. the boiling boiling basket movement of of the movement given, with water to to which which with water instructions given, according according to to the the instructions boil. Put Put the the per cent to the the boil. added, and and bring bring to salt has has been been added, 8 cent salt 8 per and them up up and standing them into the the basket, basket, standing asparagus bundles bundles into asparagus into the the basket into packing them Lower the the basket too closely. closely. Lower not not packing them too up to to are immersed immersed up bundles are the asparagus asparagus bundles boiler boiler so so that that the minutes. for 33minutes. andboil boil for one-third their length length and one-thirdof of their into the the lower into it down down lower and drop drop it Disengage basket and Disengage the the basket are immersed, immersed, tips are of the theasparagus asparagus tips boiler, sothat two-thirdsof boiler, so that two-thirds minutes. and 3minutes. and boil boil for for another another 3 plunge it cold into aa tub tub of ofcold it into Remove and plunge Remove the the basket basket and jetsof of water water cannot cannot thejets that the care that running running water, water, taking taking care

ASPARAGUS ASPARAGUS
damage the theasparagus asparagus tips. tips.Leave Leave in inthis thiswater waterfor forabout about an an damage hour.Drain Drain with greatcare. with great care. hour. Putthe theasparagus asparagusinto jars, placing intocans preserving jars, cansor or preserving placing Put some with heads up and others with heads down. Cover with sorne with heads up and others with heads down. Coyer with water which which has has been been salted salted in in the proportion of the proportion g. of 300 300g. water (11 oz. l| cups) refined salt to l0 litreJ (9 quarts, 1l quarti) (II oz. li cups) refined salt to 10 litres (9 quarts, II quarts) water. water. Cooking time time in in Cooking Cooking time time in in Weight of cans a 115"C: (718"F.) Cooking Weight of cans a 115C. (238F.) abain-marie bain-marie a steriliser steriliser g. (l lb.) 500 g. l0 minutes minutes 20 minutes minutes 500 (1 lb.) 10 20 (2* lb.) I ke. l5 minutes minutes 30 minutes minutes 1 kg. (2i lb.) 15 30 (a+ lb.) 2 kg. 20 minutes 40 minutes 2 kg. (41 lb.) 20 minutes 40 minutes

Cnnned green green asparagus porNTss asparagus tips. tips. CONSERVE @NsERvE DE DE POINTES Canned Divide the the asparagus asparagus stalks stalks into into three three - Divide parts: the base, the middle and the tips. parts: the base, the middle and the tips. put the First put (the toughest the bases bases (the toughest parts) parts) into into a a saucepan saucepan of of First salted boiling boiling water water and and boil boil them them for for 2 2 minutes. minutes. Add Add the the salted middle sections sections and and boil boil for for another another 2 2 minutes. minutes. Add Add the the tips tips middle and boil boil for for a a third third 2 2 minutes. minutes. Drain Drain very very carefully. carefully. and Put them jars and them into into cans preserving jars cans or or preserving and coyer cover with with the the Put brine as as in the preceding recipe. same brine same in the preceding recipe. Cooking time time in in Cooking cooking time time in in Cooking weight of of cans cans a (gT.F.) a 110 IIT"c: Weight C. (230F.) a bain-marie bain-marie a steririser steriliser g. (l lb.) 500 l0 minutes 20 minutes minutes 500 g. (lIb.) 10 minutes 20 (2f lb.) I kg. 15 minutes 30 minutes 30 minutes 15 minutes 1 kg. (2i lb.) (a| lb.) 2 kg. kg. (41 lb.) 40 minutes minutes 40 2 Cream of of asparagus asparagus soup soup See SOUP, SOUP, Cream Crearn soups. soups. - See Cream Aryaragus beaped heaped in in a a croustade croustade I la ta Carme. Car6me. Br.nssoN Asparagus BUISSON D'AspERGEs EN cRousrADn A u cmtrr,rn Cook the of - Cook the tips tips of D'ASPERGES EN CROUSTADE LA CARME thick white asparagus asparagus in salted water, a thick white in salted water, keeping keeping thern them a little a napkin. Coat each Drain and and dry dry on on a napkin. Coat each one one little underdone. underdone. Drain in in aspic aspic mayonnaise. mayonnaise. Chill Chili thoroughly thoroughly in in a a refrigerator. refrigerator. Arrange Arrange in in a a low low flan flan shell, shell, made made of of pie pie pastry pastry and and baked baked blind, and half-filled half-filled with with a a salad salad of of green green asparagus asparagus tips tips blind, and and truffes, seasoned with oil and lemon iuice. and trutHes, seasoned with oil and lemon juice.
D'ASrERGES vERTEs D'ASPERGES VERTES -

Asparagus au gratin au gratin Asparagus

Asparagus heaped in a croustade d la Carme Asparagus beaped in a croustade li la Carme

Asparagus Asparagus I la la flamande. Oamande. AspERGEs ASPERGES A r,,c, LA rrA,MAr.rDe FLAMANDE - Serve Serve hot, hot, with with melted melted butter. butter. Halves Halves of of hot, hot, hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs eggs are are served separately. The guests mash the eggs on their plates served separately. The guests mash the eggs on their plates and and mix mix them them with with the the melted melted butter. butter. Asparagus in batter. batler. FRrror FRITOT D'Aspm.cEs D'ASPERGES - Cook Cook the the Asparagus frid fried in tips of large green white or asparagus tips of large white or green asparagus in in salted salted boiling boiling water water for 5 minutes. Drain, for 5 minutes. Drain, dry, dry, and and marinate marinate for for 30 30 minutes minutes in in juice oil, oil, lemon lemon juice or or vinegar, vinegar, salt salt and and pepper. pepper. When When nearly nearly ready ready to to serve, serve, dip dip the the asparagus asparagus tips tips into into a a light light batter batter and and fry fry in in smoking-hot smoking-hot deep deep fat. fat. Drain, Drain, dry, dry, season season with with fine fine salt, and arrange in a heap on a a napkin. napkin. salt, and arrange in a heap on Asparagus Asparagus i la la Fontanelle. Fontanelle. lspm.cns ASPERGES A ra LA roNr,lNELLE FONTANELLE Boil Boil the the asparagus asparagus in in salted salted water water and and drain. drain. Serve Serve with with melted melted butter. butter. Soft-boiled Soft-boiled eggs eggs are are served served with with this this dish, dish, the the guests guests dipping asparagus in in the the melted melted butter butter and and then then in in the the dipping the the asparagus egg. egg.
54 54

in a a fireproof fireproof dish. dish. in Pour Mornay Mornay sauce (seeSAUCE) sauce (see over the the tips tips only. Pour SAUCE) over only. Coyer Cover the rest rest of of the the asparagus asparagus with greaseproof paper. with greaseproof paper. Sprinkle the Sprinkle the sauce sauce with grated Parmesan with grated Parmesan cheese cheese and and melted melted butter, the butter, and brown brown the the tips. tips. Remove Remove the paper before the paper before serving. serving. and Asparagus i la la milanaise. milanaise. ASPERGES AspERcEs A LA r,.l MILANAISE Dur,c,Nrusn -Asparagus Proceed as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for Asparagus au gratin, Proceed au gratin, but omit omit the the Mornay Mornay sauce. sauce. but Asparagus i la la Mornay. Mornay. ASPERGES AspERGEs A LA u MORNAY rrlonN,ly Asparagus - Another name for for Asparagus au gratin. name Asparagus with with noisette noisette butter. butter. ASPERGES AspERcEs AU AU BEURRE Asparagus NoTSETTE Cook the asparagus by the usual usual method. Serve NOISETTE - Cook Noisette butter (see (see BUTTER) BUTTER) separately. separately. Noisette Alternatively, arrange cooked and well-drained well-drained asparagus asparagus Alternatively, arrange in a a dish, and keep it warm in the oyen. oven. Just before serving, in serving, sprinkle it it with with sizzling noisette sprinkle noisette butter. Asparagus polonaise. ASPERGES I la mpm,cns A Asparagus la polonaise. rl LA poLoNArsE POLONAISE Proceed described in Proceed as as described in the recipe for Asparagus Asparagus mr au gratin. gratin. Cover Coyer the tips with with chopped yolks of hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs and parsley. parsley. When pour on When ready ready to to serve, serve,pour on sizzling sizzling Noisette butter butter (see (see BUTTER) BUTTER) in in which freshly grated white breadcrumbs breadcrumbs have have been been fried fried until until light light golden brown. brown. Alternatively, Alternatively, arrange the the asparagus on a a serving serving dish and breadcrumbs separately. separately. and serve serve the butter and breadcrumbs Asparagus soufr6. SOUFFLS, Souffii Souffl of various various souffi. See See SOUFFLES, vegetables.' vegetables. Asparagus Asparagus tips tips for for gardshes. garnisbes. porNTEs POINTES D',q,spERcns D'ASPERGES Scrape, Scrape, if if necessary, necessary, and and cut cut the the tips tips into into 5-cm. 5-cm. (2-inch) (2-inch) lengths; lengths; tie tie into into bundles. bundles. Cook Cook as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for Green Green asparagus asparagus tlps. tips. (see (see below). below). If If this this garnish garnish is is used used for for hot hot dishes, dishes, the the asparagus asparagus tips tips should he added added at at the the very very last last moment; moment; cook cook them them fiist first should be in in water, water, drain, drain, and and dress dress with with melted melted butter butter or or cream. cream. Asparagus an excellent excellent garnish garnish for for eggs eggs which which have have Asparagus makes makes an been been scrambled, scrambled, lightly lightly boiled, boiled, au au plat, plat, poached poached or or in in an an omelette. omelette. Also Also for for some sorne fish fish dishes, dishes, and and for for meat meat served served in in small small portions portions - cutlets, cutlets, escalopes, escalopes, noisettes, noisettes, small small fillets, fillets, tournedas, tournedos, etc., etc., for for calves' calves' sweetbreads, sweetbreads, and and for for fowls fowls and and chickens. chickens. When Wh en asparagus asparagus tips tips are are intended intended for for garnishing garnishing or or for for cold salads, they they must must be be dipped dipped in in cold co Id water water as as soon soon as as co Id salads, they they are are co.oked, co.oked, and and well weil drained. drained. Season Season with with vinaigrette, vinaigrette, or or mayonnaise, mayonnaise, or or bind bind with wi th meat mea tjelly. jelly. Asparagus Asparagustips tipswith witbcretm. cream.porNTEs POINTESD'AspERGEs D'ASPERGESA r,c, LAcRi;ur CRME Cook asparagus asparagus tips tips and and add add a a few few tablespoons tablespoons of of fresh fresh -- Cook double double cream cream which which has has previously previously been been scalded. scalded. Blend Blend in in lightly and season. season. Arrange Arrange in in a a vegetable vegetable dish dish with with tips tips lightly and uppermost. uppermost.

Asparagus au gratin. ASPERGES au gratin. AspERcEs AU AU GRATIN GRATTNCook in in salted salted Asparagus - Cook water and and drain drain thoroughly. thoroughly. Arrange Arrange the the asparagus asparagus in in tiers water tiers

ASPIC
Asparagrs Asparagus tips in butter. porNTEs POINTES D'AspERGEs D'ASPERGES AU BEURRE BEURRERemove the the tips from from a a bundle bundle of asparagus; scrape scrape and dice the rest. Cook Cook the diced diced pieces, drain well, weil, and dry in a pan over heat. Add small pieces of butter in the proportion proportion of of 75 g. (3 o2.,6 oz., 6 tablespoons) butter butter to 250 g. (9 oz.) asparaasparagus, and stir gently. Heap into a dish, and garnish gamish with the tips, which have been lightly lightly cooked in salted water. Green asparagus tips. rorvr.ns POINTES D'AspERGEs D'ASPERGES vERTEs VERTES - Cut off the tough stalks, keeping the tender parts of green green asparaasparagus. Tie these into bundles of 8 to l0 10 shoots. Cut the lower lower part of these bundles into dice, keeping keepillg the actual tips tied together. Cook the diced asparagus asparagus in boiling salted water for 4 minutes, then add the bundles of of tips. Boil briskly, with the saucepan saucepan uncovered, for 7 or 8 minutes. Drain the bundles and and the the diced diced asparagus. asparagus. Dip Dip in in cold co Id water water and and cool. Proceed indicated in the chosen recipe. recipe. Proceed as indicated Puree Pure of green green rsparrgus. asparagus. prinrn PUREE D'AspERcEs D'ASPERGES vERTES VERTES Cook Cook asparagus asparagus tips in fast-boiling, fast-boiling, salted salted water, drain, and rub through a a fine fine sieve. sieve. Heat the pur6e, pure, and and add add butter and cream. cream. This puree pure is used as a garnish. White ssparagus CROTE cRlrrNfr GRATINE lux AUX asparagus with fried bread. cno0ru ASrERGES lb.) of white asparagus ASPERGES BLANcHES BLANCHESBlanch 500 500 g. (l (lIb.) ofwhite asparagus - Blanch tips tips in salted water for for 8 minutes, minutes, drain, drain, and and simmer simmer in butter until cooked. Cut decrusted bread into slices slices l0 10 cm. (4 inches) and 6 cm. (2|inches) (21 inch es) wide, and and fry in butter. butter. inch es) long long and Put Put 7 7 or or 8 8 asparagus asparagus tips on each each slice slice of offried bread, sprinkle sprinkle fried bread, with grated Parmesan cheese, cheese, pour on the butter in which which the asparagus asparagus was cooked, cooked, and brown the top top lightly. White aspuagus asparagus with witb melted butter. butter. ASrERGEs ASPERGES BLANcHES BLANCHES AU AU BELJRRE BEURRE FoNDU FONDU * - Cook the asparagus asparagus in salted water, drain and serve, piping hot, with warm melted butter. The butter should be be melted over over a a gentle gentle heat heat and and seasoned seasoned with butter salt, pepper and a dash of of lemon lemon juice. juice. Pur6e Pure of white asparagus. asparagus. pun6n PURE D'AspnRGES D'ASPERGES BLANcHES BLANCHES Blanch 500 500 g. g. (l (1 lb.) white asparagus asparagus tips lips for 8 minutes, drain, drain, and simmer sim mer lightly in butter. butter. Season with salt and and pepper. pepper. Moisten with 2t Moisten with 2-!- dl. dl. (scant 1- pint, generous generous cup) thick Bdchamel Bchamel sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE). Boil Boil for for 15 15 minutes. minutes. Rub Rub through through a fine sieve. Heat Heat the pur6e pure and add butter. butter. This This purde pure is used used as as a a garnish garnish for poached or lightly boiled boiled eggs, eggs, for for small pieces pieces of of meat, meat, for for chicken, chicken, for filling patties and tartlets. tartlets. White White aspffagus asparagus salad. SALADE SALADE D'AspERGEs D'ASPERGES BLANcHEs BLANCHES the asparagus asparagus tips tips in salted salted water. water. Drain, Drain, dip in in cold cold Cook the

water, drain again and dry in a napkin. a napkin. Arrange in a Arrange a salad bowl or an hors-d'uvre hors-d'eavre dish. Pour on well-whisked vinaigrette, or a oil, lemon juice, a mixture of oil, well-whisked well whisked, so that the sauce pepper. This must be weil salt and pepper. covers the asparagus in a layer. Serve chilled. ASIERGES BLANCHES BLANcIIES White asparagus with with cold cold sauces. White saucesL ASPERGES AVEC sAUcEs SAUCES FRorDEs FROIDES AvEc and drain. Cook the the asparagus asparagus and - Cook Arrange Arrange on a dish serve with one dish and serve one of of the following sauces: Mayonnaise, Mustard, Mus tard, Tartare, Vinaigrette Vinnigrette (see SAUCE). SAUCE). White White asparagus with hot bot sauces. sauces. ASeERGEs ASPERGES BLANCHES asparagus with BLANcHEs AVEc AVEC sAUcEs SAUCES CHAUDES cHAUDES asparagus in salted water - Cook the asparagus and drain. drain. Serve the following following sauces: and Serve separately one one of the sauces: Butter, Bdtarde, Btarde, Chantilly, Maltaise, Chantilly, Cream, Cream, Hollandaise, Maltaise, Mousseuse, Noisette (see SAUCE). SAUCE). ASPERULA. ASpERULE ASPRULE - Plant which is is both both useful useful and ASPERUI"A. pleasant. It It is called sweet is also also called sweet woodruff, mugwort, sweet sv)eet grass and quinsy quinsy wort. wort. Its ftowers are used as as an grass and Its white white flowers are used infusion, and for distilling distilling liqueurs. ln some sorne northern northem countries it is is also used for flavouring fiavouring In sausages. sausages.

putting slices It consists consists of ofputting slices or fillets of dishes. It of chicken, game,

- Term which applies to to a arranging cold ASPIC a way of arranging

various meats, fish, fish, vegetables, vegetables, fruit, fruit, etc., etc., into into moulded moulded various jelly. Many authors authors believe that that this this name name comes cornes from from the Many coldness recalls that that of the ca lied asp, asp, 'whose icy coldness serpent called jelly', jelly', but it is more probably derived from the Greek word aspis, which which means buckler buckler or shield. It was, in fact, in this aspr,s, moulds were made; others were made in form that the first moulds a coiled coiled snake, snake, doubtless to justify the name name the shape of a 'aspic'. Whatever its its origin, origin, the the word word aspic is is applied applied to to very Whatever preparations: foie Joie gras gras in in aspic, aspic, chicken chicken in in aspic, different preparations: partridge in aspic, lobster lobs ter in aspic, aspic, fillets fiUets of oJ sole in aspic. For methods methods of aspic aspic preparations preparations of meat, meat, chicken, For game, shellfish and and fish, fish, see see the the following following entries in their game, alphabetical order: CHICKEN, CHICKEN, LOBSTER, PHEASANT, PHEASANT, alphabetical SHRIMP, SOLE. SHRIMP, made of of fruit and set in in jelly jelly moulds are also Sweet dishes made ca lied aspics. aspics. The word word aspic is is used, used, too, too, for the actual called jelly. jelly. ln In his book book devoted to cold co Id enties, entres, Car6me Carme describes the method of of preparing preparing aspic jelly as follows: 'Clean 'Clean and and singe singe 2 2 chickens, chickens, wash wash them them thoroughly, thoroughly, truss them, and and place place in a small marmite marmite (q.v.) with a round truss of veal, veal, other other veal trimmings and a little little ham. Add 6 boned of and blanched calves' feet, fill the marmite marmite with water, water, and from the flame. A leave to cook on a hot stove, but away from much lighter lighter aspic, aspic, easy easy to to clarify, cJarify, is is obtained obtained by by this much process. Skim thoroughly, and add half half a bay leaf, leaf, a little process. and basil, basil, a bunch of parsley and and spring onions, onions, 2 thyme and carrots and 2 onions. on ions. Keep Keep the the jelly jelly simmering simmering gently and 2 carrots for 4 hours. for 'Whisk 4 4 egg egg whites whites with a a glass glass of ofwhite or Madeira, Madeira, 'Whisk white wine or you wish to and the the same same amount amollnt of ofveal stock if ifyou to give give it it some sorne veal stock and colour; if if not, not, omit omit the the stock. stock. Add Add to to thejelly, the jelly, place place on on a a high colour; fla me, and whisk until until the mixture is boiling. Turn heat to flame, Taste, in case a little little salt is needed. very low. Taste, Coyer the pan and leave leave to simmer for about about 2 minutes, Cover be clear. cJear. mixture should be when the mixture napkin in water, water, wring wring out out well, weil, and and tie lie the Rinse a a napkin Rinse corners to an upturned chair. Strain the aspic through the napkin.' napkin.' Carme also also describes describes how how aspic aspic should be be coloured: coloured: Cardme of the principal presentations presentations of of cold co Id dishes consists consists 'One of these clarified, c1arified, transparent transparent jellies jellies of 2 colours only of these one should be be white white and the other other of of a good strong colour.' one 55 55

Arrangement of of aspic, after after Arrangement Carme Car6me

ASPIC ASPIC

Aspic moulds moulds Aspic

great Laguipire perfect colourings how the great Laguipibre achieved achieved perfect colourings He tells how jellies: 'Melt granulated sugar 'Melt granulated sugar and, and, without without moistenmoistenfor his jellies: ing it, it, let let it it colour colour little little by little on by little on red-hot red-hot cinders, cinders, which which ing quarter of should take take about about a a qu~rter of an an hour. hour. When When it it becomes becomes should amber-red caramel, glass of with half caramel, moisten moisten with half a a glass water and of water and amber-red place the pan over hotter fiame. flame. After the pan over a a hotter After several several minutes minutes of of place a clear amber-red, totally clear amber-red, totally unlike unlike the boiling it becomes a the bitter bitter get black caramel w which is allowed allowed to to get black on on a a high high fiame flame and and caramel hich is commonly called called "monkey's "monkey's blood.'" blood."' which is commonly The modern modern method process is method of given of the the clarifying clarifying process The is given under the the entryentitled entry entitled JELLIES, and and in in the below. under the one one below. jelly (4| quarts, of aspic quarts, litres (41 aspic jeUy To c1arify clarify 5 Clarification of 5 litres - To jelly stock, quarts) jelly (l lb.) lean 5| quarts) add 3 egg g. (lIb.) stock, add egg whites and and 500 lean 500 g. minced beef. Add a a tablespoon oftarragon of tarragon and and a a tablespoon tablespoon chervil, roughly roughly chopped. Whisk Whisk lightly. of chervil, lightly. Heat Heat the the stock stock a little until it is is tepid, tepid, skimming skimming off a off aIl all the the fat: fat: this this is is imimto the the boil, whisking all portant. Bring to all the Lower the the time. time. Lower the heat and and simmer gently for for 35 minutes. heat Rinse a napkin in water, wring out out thoroughly, thoroughly, and and strain strain aspic through through the napkin. the aspic jelly can Aspic jelly can be be fiavoured flavoured with with various various dessert dessert wines: port, sherry, Frontignan, port, Frontignan, sherry, Marsala, Marsala, Madeira, Madeira, Malvasia (Malvoisie). These wines, wines, which which are are only added added to to the jelly when it is used in the proportion of is tepid, are used per litre of 1 I dl. dl. per litre (3 tablespoons per pint) of (3 of jelly in the the case of dessert dessert wines, and 2 dl. in the case of Champagne, Sauternes, Alsatian, or or other white wines. Instructions Instructions for making various aspic jellies will be found found Meat jellies. jellies. under JELLIES, Meat Aspics in moulds mouldsAspics set in plain moulds, charlotte- Aspics are set moulds or moulds with a ho le in type moulds hole in the middle. Coat the mould with a a thin layer of as indicated in of jelly, as in pressing into the recipes. Decorate by pressing into the jelly small pieces truffie, cooked lean harn of trufre, ham or tongue, and white of hardand white egg for meat, meat, chicken game aspics. boiled egg chicken or or game aspics. For fish fish or aspics use use pieces pieces of trufre, truffie, white shellfish aspics white of of hard-boiled hard-boiled coral of shellfish or slivers of smoked salmon. egg, the coral

st

Aspic crofitons. Aspic croOtons. CROTONS cRo0roNs DE DE GELE cnrfs -- Aspics Aspics cut into cut into jelly must shapes -- triangles. shapes triangles, rectangles, rectangles, crescents, crescents, etc. etc. The The jelly must be clear clear and and solid. solid. be When a a number number of When of crotons crotitons have pour the have to to be be made, made, pour the jelly into into a jelly a large large baking baking dish dish to quite firm, to set. set. When When it it is is quite firm, turn turn out out onto onto a a damp damp cloth cloth which which has has been been stretched stretched and and fastened to fastened a table. to a table. Cut with aa knife Cut up up with knife if if the the crotons cro0tons are are rectilinear in pastry-cutter rectilinear tter if in shape, shape, or with a or with a pastry-cu if they they are round. are round. The technical The technical term gelie means crotttonner de term crotonner de gele means to to surround surround sorne jelly cut some cold cold food food with with crotons cro0tons of ofjelly cut into into shapes. shapes. Aspic Aspic of freshwater crayfish of freshwater crayfish tails. Asprc DE DE QUEUES tails. ASPIC euEUEs p'fcnnvrssns -- Cook D'CREVISSES (see Cook the crayfish d la la mirepoix mirepoix (see the crayfish MIREPOIX). MIREPOIX). Shell Shell the the tails plain tails and and arrange airange them them in in aa plain round round mould mould which which has has been coated withjelly. been coated with jelly. Fill Fill the the mould mould either YFISH) or (see CRA either with with a a Crayfish Crayfi,sh mousse mousse (see CRAYFISH) or a aRussian Russian (see SALAD). salad salad (see SALAD). Chili ice. Chill on on ice. porssoNs - This Aspic Aspic of of fish. fish. ASPIC esprc DE DE POISSONS can be be made with made with - This can fish fish of various kinds, of various kinds, cut cut in in fillets, fillets, slices slices or medallions. Fill or medallions. Fill the the middle middle of of the the aspic aspic dish dish with with a a fish fish mousse mousse appropriate appropriate to particular recipe; to the the particular with Russian recipe; with Russian salad; salad; or or with with any any mixture mixture normally normally used used for for cold cold dishes. dishes. Aspic gras J. Aspic of foie gras plain of foie I. ASPIC mplc DE DE FOIE ForE GRAS GRAs -- Coat Coat a a plain jelly and mould mould with with jelly gras, and fill fill it it with with uniform uniform slices slices of of foie foie gras, garnished garnished with with large large slivers slivers of of truffies. truffies. Fill Fill the the mould mould with with jelly. Leave half-set jelly. Leave on plate or on ice ice to to set. set. Serve Serve on a plate on a or in in aa glass glass dish. dish. Aspic gras II. Aspic of of foie foie gras II. ASPIC lsplc DE DE FOIE ForE GRAS GRAS -- Coat Coat a a mould mould jelly (or jelly fiavoured with port-fiavoured port-flavoured jelly (or jelly flavoured with with any any other other heavy wine). Fill heavy wine). Fill with with truBles truffes cut cut into into neat neat round round slices, slices, round pieces of pickled tongue, round pieces of ham ham or or pickled tongue, and, and, if if desired, desired, the the whites whites of of hard-boiled eggs eggs cut cut in in rings. rings. Fill the mould withjeIly. with jelly. Chill on ice ice or or in in the Chill on the refrigerator. refrigerator. To To serve, serve, turn turn the aspic onto the aspic onto a flat dish, a fiat dish, or or onto onto slices slices of of buttered bread. If served bread. If served on a dish, on a dish, decorate decorate with with chopped chopped jelly,and jelly triangles. jelly.and triangles. This This aspic aspic can can also also be be made made by filling the mould with by filling the mould with foie gras slices gras cut slices of of/oie cut out out with a a shell-shaped shell-shaped scoop. scoop.

Lobster in in aspic (Battendier. (Battendier. Phot. Phol. Larousse) Larousse) Lobster

Sole (Battendier. Phot. in aspic Sole in aspic (Battendier. Phot. Larousse) Larousse)

56 56
Beef pot-ou-feu (Lasserre. Phot. Nicolas) Beef po t-au-feu (Lasserr e. P ho t. N ico las)

'lnr.

ASPIC

Chicken in aspic (Roberr Carrier)

57 57
Roast garnished witb beans and strips of red pepper, Roastsirloin garnished sirloinof beef withFrench French ofbeef beans and strips of red pepper, carrot aod potato baskets (Phol. .\Iicolas) sticks and potato baskets (Pfrot. N it'olas\ carrotsticks

ASSIETTE
Aspic of frogs' legs I I'ancienne. l'ancienne. Asprc ASPIC DE DE GRENouTLLES GRENOUILLES A t'lNcreNue L'ANCIENNE - Poach trimmed frogs' legs legs in white wine flavoured thyme and a bay flavoured with a sprig sprig of ofthyme bay leaf. Leave Leave to cool in in the the liquor. Iiquor. Drain, Drain, dry, and and coat half half of of them them completely completely with a white white Chaud-froid Chaud-froid sauce based based on meatless meatless stock, stock, and and the other other half half with with a Chaud-froid Chaud-froid sauce coloured coloured with crayfish butter (see (see SAUCE, Compound Compound sauces). sauces). Lay Lay the frogs' frogs' legs on a wire tray, one by one, and leave them them to get quite cold. Decorate with truffies truffles cut in thin slices. slices. Coat Coat with aspic aspic jelly. jelly. Arrange Arrange the the frogs' frogs' legs legs round round the sides of of a mould which has has been been coated coated with jelly, jelly, alternating them with with peeled crayfish crayfish tails. tails. Fill the middle middle of of the the mould mould with a Parisian salad (see (see SALAD), dressed dressed with mayonnaise mayonnaise which which has has been been thickened thickened with gelatine. gelatine. Pour Pour a thin layer layer of aspic aspic jelly on ice. jelly over over the the whole, whole, and and chill chillon To To serye, serve, turn turn out onto onto a dish dish and and decorate decorate with a border border of of jelly jelly cro0tons crotons (q.v.). (q.v.).

of cold co Id meats meats (Laroussel (Larousse) Plate of

Assiettes volantes - This This term term describes describes a a selection of several items items of food food on one one plate, in the the manner manner of an several hors-d'uvre, particularly particularly various kinds of salty salty foods foods cut hors-d'euvre, thin slices. slices. in thin the beginning beginning of the the nineteenth Assiettes garnies - At the century, this this term term also also applied to ta a dish. century, Carme says: 'Lunch consisted of six assleltes assiettes on which Carme cutlets, fish, chicken, chic ken, game, game, a side-dish of of vegetables, vegetables, veal cutlets, and soft-boiled soft-boiled eggs were were served.' served.' and (about 25 miles) from ASTI - Italian Italian town town situated 40 km. (about ASTI Turin. It It is is the the ancient ancient Asta Asta Colonia or Asta Asta Pompeia Pompeia of of the Turin. Romans, and is is famous famous for its sparkling wine, made from Romans, Moscato grapes, grapes, called called Asti Asti Spumante Spumante (see WINE). WINE). Moscato ASTRAGAL (Milk vetch). ASTRAGALE ASTRAGALE - Many varieties of ASTRAGAL astragal grow in Asia; it is also also found found in the the temperate astragal regions of of the the Lebanon. Lebanon. One One variety variety of of milk milk vetch vetch produces regions gum tragacanth, tragacanth, which which is is used used in confectionery confectionery and pastrypastrygum making. making.

Little Little chicken chicken aspics aspics

Aspic of of poultry poultry and and feathered feathered grme. game. Asplc ASPIC DE DE voLAILLEs VOLAlLLES Aspic Coat slices slices of of chicken chicken or or game game with with white white or or brown brown ChaudChaudCoat froid sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) and and put put them them in in a a mould mould which which froid jelly. Fill has been been coated coated with with aspic aspicjelly. Fill the the mould mould with with either either a a has chicken or or game game mousse, mousse, or or with with some sorne other other mixture mixture used used chicken

for for cold cold dishes. dishes.

of shrimps shrimps or or other other shellfish. shellfish. Asprc ASPIC DE DE cREvETTEs CREVEITES Aspic of Aspic Coat an an aspic aspic mould mould with with clear clear fish fish jelly. jelly. Decorate Decorate the the sides sides Coat with with peeled peeled shrimp shrimp tails tails and and small small pieces pieces of of truffie. truffle. Fill Fill the the of the the mould mould with with a a cold cold shrimp shrimp mousse mousse mixed mixed with with middle of middle shrimp tails tails and and truffies truffles cut cut into into large large dice. dice. Fill Fill the the mould mould shrimp with jelly, jelly, and and leave leave on on ice ice to to set. set. with be prepared prepared in in the the same same way, way, using using Crayfish aspics aspics can can be Crayfish trimmed crayfish crayfish tails tails and and crayfish crayfish mousse. mousse. Spiny Spiny lobster lobster or or trimmed lobster aspics aspics are are made made by by Using using slices slices of of one one or or other other of of lobster these shellfish, shellfish, together together with with the the appropriate appropriate mousse. mousse. these ASSIETIE - See See PLATE. PLA TE. ASSIETTE of cold cold meats meats arranged arranged on on Assiette anglaise anglaise - Assortment Assortment of Assiette a plate plate or or a a dish. dish. a The assortment assortment usually usually consists consists of of York York ham, ham, salt salt beef, beef, The tongue, rib rib of of beef beef or or roast roast beef. beef. Mortadella, Mortadella, galantine, galantine, tongue, etc., are are sometimes sometimes added added to to it. it. etc., The meat meat is is garnished garni shed with with chopped chopped jelly, jelly, cress cress and and The gherkins. The The assiette assiette anglaise anglaise is is served served chiefly chiefly at at lunch. lunch. gherkins. The term term assiettes assiettesassorties assorties describes describes various various preparations preparations The served as as hors-d'euvre, hors-d'uvre, thotgh though hors-d'euvre hors-d'uvre ate are usually usually served served nowadays nowadays in in special special hors-teuvre hors-d'uvre dishes. dishes. served

Astragal Astragal a. Astragalus AstragaJus of of Crete Crete b. b. Liquorice Liquorice vetch vetch c. c. Fruit Fruit a.

58 58

ATTELET AITELET
Another Another variety variety produces produces fruit fruit in the form of of pods, pods, which, which, the seeds seeds contained contained in in them them are are formed, formed, resemble resemble before the before wonns. worms. In In the the past past these pods pods used to be added to salads (to (to mystify mystify the guests guests !). !). Astragalus Astragalus pods pods are are also also pickled in vinegar, like like capers. vinegar, seeds of There is yet another variety of astragalus, the the seeds which, when ripe, are used in cookery. cookery. which,
vegetable ASTRINGENT - Binding, Binding, contracting. contracting. The The vegetable ASTRINGENT were cooked great number of dishes were cooked a great In In the past, when wh en a burning fue was actually burning in the fireplace, the thepart part where the fire (hearth). It stews hearth that It was in in the hearth that stews dtre (hearth). was called the tre preparations which slowly long time were were slowly a long which take a and other preparations

of walnut cutch, bark bark of of oak, oak, quinquina, quinquina, leaves leaves of walnut tree, cutch,
bramble, lemon lemon juice, quinces, quinces, etc. arbutus tree and bramble,

owe their their properties to tannin. Among Among them are astringents owe

ASTRODERME - Sea fish of of an an unusual unusual appearance, appearance, ASTRODERME Sea fish round spots, yellowish pink on on the back back and sides with black round yellowish Young astrosilvery spots spots on on the the belly. belly. Young alternating with silvery This bellies. This dermes have have purplish-blue bodies bodies and and silvery silvery bellies. dermes is well known fei" d'America d'America by Nice fishermen, fishermen, is weil known fish, called fel of France along the the whole whole of the the Mediterranean Mediterranean coast coast of along (Cte d'Azur). (C6te bouillabaise. It is chiefly used as an ingredient ingredient for ..' for bouillabaise

cooked, surrounded by hot coals. gas, in ovens heated by gas, All these dishes are today cooked in Ali protest gastronomes protest a few few gastronomes oil. Quite coal or or oil. electricity, coal electricity, Quite a maintaining that that dishes cooking, maintaining of cooking, against these methods of against prepared in this way as as when cooked by by cannot taste so good prepared cannot the old methods. When nothing in the claim. When Experience shows that there is nothirig Experience (and kitchen utensils have today today used (and well-made utensils are used weIl-made perfection), food cooked point of food can can be be cooked high point of perfection), a high reached a reached product and whatever whatever the the method. successfully, whatever whatever the product successfully,

plant of family as as of the the same same family Herbaceous plant ATRIPLEX ATRIPLEX - Herbaceous genus Chenopodium. goosefoot genus Chenopodh*n. and the the goosefoot spinach and spinach garden orach; it is is as garden orach; it known as is commonly commonly known The atriplex atriplex is The prepared like like It is grown aIl is prepared France. It all over over France. and grown cultivated and cultivated spinach. (See ORACH.) spinach.

reign ofMarcus ive in the reign still al alive Aurelius. He was still of Marcus Aurelius. in the reign year A.D. of Alexander Alexander Severus, about the year 228. xo.228. Only one of his entitled Deipnosohas survived, entitled works has his works phistai or Specialists a gem of erudition, is a phistai in Dining, which is Specialists in giving much much information would history which we would giving information on ancient history otherwise lack. In Specialists relating ln Specialists in Dining, there are several passages relating to both practical uses, both various uses, and their their various fruit and and fruit to flowers and and pleasurable. and pleasurable. ATHNIENNE ( (A V) dishes various dishes L') applying to to various ATIffiMENNE - Name applying which are and onion, and fried onion, lightly fried flavoured with with lightly are usually usually flavoured garnished garnished with aubergines, sweet pimentos. and sweet aubergines, tomatoes and

ATHENA EUS - Greek writer, born in Naucratis, Naucratis, in Egypt, ATHENAEUS

(Collection of Phot. Larousse) Iarousse) Antique of Dr Dr GOllschalk. Gottschalk. Phal. Antique attelets attelets(Collecrion

Athrine

ATHRINE body, fish, with with a a long, long, spindle-shaped spindle-shaped body, ATfffiRINE -- Little Little fish, covered posterior end. The sides sides end. The with rounded rounded scales scales at at the the posterior covered with have the head is flattened on on the the top, top, the have a a silvery silvery stripe, stripe, the the head is flattened upper th are jaw is are very very lower, and and the the tee teeth is shorter shorter than than the the lower, upper jaw smal!. small. Two coasts of of France, France, fish are Two species species of are known known on on the the coasts of this this fish where prtre and faux perlan. where they are called calledprdtre andfaux iperlan. they are Common English are silversideand and sand-smelt, sand-smelt, names in in English are silverside Common narnes and species are are fishermen take enormous catches. catches. Other Other species and the the fishermen take enormous found coast lakes. lakes. found in in the and Mediterranean Mediterranean coast the estuaries estuaries and In fish. Its Its fiesh flesh is is In the smelts correspond correspond to to this this fish. the U.S.A., U.S.A., smelts delicate delicate in in flavour. flavour. Athrines are usuaIly in deep deep fat, fat, fried in Athirines are usually fried but for small small bass can be be applied applied to to this this recipes suitable suitable for bass can all recipes but ail fish. fish. TRE (Hearth stone) today, This word word is is no no longer longer used used today, Afnn (Hearth stone) -- This except pastrypart of the baker's baker's or or pastryexcept to to describe describe the the central central part of the cook's oyen. cook's oven. 59 59

hasta, meanmeanATTELET Latin hasta, from the the Latin This word word cornes comes from ATTELET -- This isoften often past was ing It is spelt hatelet. hatelet.It was spelt in the the past and in staff or rod, and ing staff or rod, which used, metal skewers skewers on on which little metal describe !ittle incorrectly, to to describe used, incorrectly, various sweetbreads, lambs'sweetbreads, pieces of kidneys, lambs; meat, sheeps' sheeps' kidneys, of meat, various pieces larks, are threaded. threaded. larks, etc., etc., are To shape of ofaa in the the shape a little little utensil utensil in precise, an attelet is is a an allelet To be be precise, with mental top. pin These, with top. These, pin or with an an orna ornamental skewer, but but with or skewer, truffles, food items of of food other items and other crayfish and cocks' combs, combs, crayfish truffies, cocks' threaded hot or or cold cold for decorating decorating hot solely for are used usedsolely on them, them, are threaded on dishes grand style. style. in the the grand dishes served served in For grand entres, advocated the the entries, Carme Car0me advocated For arranging arranging these thesegrand use cookery In modern modern cookery great number attelets. In number of of allelets. use of of aa great practice practically abandoned. abandoned. practice this has been been practically decoration has this decoration Modern decoration useof of any anydecoration as aarule, rule, the the use disdain, as Modern cooks cooks disdain, which edible. which is is not not actually actually edible. It Car6me's decorating Carme's probable that attelets decorating the allelets It is that the is probable entres andthe effects theeffects in fact, fact, edible were,in edibleand removes were, entriesand and removes obtained beautiful. certainly beautifu!' obtained were were certainly

ATTENDU ATTENDU
ATTENDU -- French French culinary culinaryterm term applied applied to toaadish dish or or ATTENDU beverage the the consumption consumption of of which which is is intentionally intentionally postpostbeverage poned in in order pheasant should order to to improve improve it. it. Thus Thusaa pheasant shouldbe be poned attendu, that that is, is, kept kept hung, hung, before before being being cooked cooked and andeaten. eaten. attendu,
(Skewer) -- In ATTEREAU (Skewer) In his his Dictionnaire Dictionnaire de decuisine cuisine et et ATTEREAU (Paris 1836), d iconomie (Paris 1836), Burnet, Burnet, one-time one-time steward steward of of the the d'conomie royal household, gives the household, gives following definition the following definition of of attereau: attereau: royal 'Name which which keepers keepers of of eating-houses eating-houses attribute attribute to kind to aa kind 'Name of ragot ragofit made made of of fiUet fillet of of veal, veal, cut cut in in very very thin thin slices. slices. They They of are studded studded with with lardoons lardoons and pie dish and cooked cooked in in aa pie dish with with aa are poured over little stock stock poured over them.' them.' little Carme, however, however, in in his published before his works works published before Burnet's Burnet's Carme, dictionary, describes describes a a method method of preparation of of preparation of attereaux attereaux dictionary, which indicates indicates that that this this dish dish is is in in no no way way aa ragot. ragofrt. In ln which modern cookery, cookery, attereau attereau describes describes both both the the metal metal skewer skewer modern on which which various various ingredients ingredients are are threaded, threaded, and and the the dish dish on itself. This This is is usualJy usually served served as as an an hors-d'uvre, hors-d'euvre, but but can can also also itself. be served served as as a a small small entre entrde if if supplemented supplemented by garnish. by a a garnish. be Attereaux differ differ from from brochettes brochettes in in being being dipped dipped in in aa Attereaux give them sauce to to give them a a finn firm coating, coating, rolled rolled in in breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, sauce and usually deep-fried. deep-fried. and The ingredients ingredients which which make make up up the the attereaux attereaux can can be be The cooked on on wooden wooden skewers, skewers, and and then then transferred transferred to to sil silver ver attelets. The The attereaux attereaux can can also also be be served served without without the attelets. the on which they they were cooked. cooked. skewers on sweet courses can prepared en can be be prepared m atlereau, attereau, the Sweet the method method being the given for same as the same as that given for savoury savoury atlereaux. attereaux. being Attereaux i la la chalonaise chalonaise Thread the-attereaux the-attereaux with Attereaux with - Thread combs and and kidneys cooked cooked in in a a white white court-bouillon cocks' combs court-bouillon (q.v.), and and drained. Add mushrooms and and trufHes. (q.v.), truffies. Dip the the atlereaux attereaux in (see SAUCE). in Villeroi Villeroi sauce sauce (see Dip SAUCE). Roll Roll them in breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and fry in smoking smoking hot deep them deep fat. fat. Drain, Drain, season with with fine fine sait, salt, and and arrange arrange on paper season on a a napkin napkin or or paper garnished with fried fried parsley. doyley, garnished Atterearx la duchesse (dessert) i la Attereaux Prepare a a mixture mixture of of - Prepare (see CUSTARD, crdme frite CUSTARD, Fried Fried custard) crme frite (see custard) to to which which have have been added added 2 crushed macaroons and and 1 I tablespoon tablespoon crystalcrystallised lised fruit, cut in very small dice and and steeped steeped in in rum. rum. When firm, thread firm, thread slices of this this mixture on on the the atlereau. attereau. Roll Roll in in very fine breadcrumbs and deep-fry in in smoking hot hot fat. fat. Attereaux I l'6cossaise l'cossaise up the Attereaux the attereaux attereaux using using - Make up pieces (see OFF Pick led ox AL or ARIETY pieces of Pickled ox tongue tongue (see OFFAL or V VARIETY MEATS), mushrooms, and MEATS), and rather rather thick thick slices slices of trufHes. truffies. Finish recipe for Finish as described described in the recipe Attereaux for Attereaux d la chalonaise. Attereaux Attereaux i h la maralchlre marachre Use pieces of turnip-rooted - Use celery celery (celeriac) (celeriac) previously previously simmered simmered in butter; mushrooms, and cooked ham ham for for the and pieces pieces of cooked the attereaux. attereazx. Finish Finish as as Attereaux described in the recipe for Attereaux described d la Ia chalonaise. Attereaux i la nigoise nioise - Make Attereaux Make up the attereaux with large stoned olives olives stuffed stuffed with a a pur6e pure of stoned of anchovies, anchovies, mushrooms, of pickled tunny. Dip them in in Villeroi pieces of and pieces (see Villeroi sauce sauce (see of concentrated tomato pure, SA UCE), with a tablespoon of SAUCE), tomato pur6e, add chopped tarragon. tarragon. Finish Finish as as described and add described in the the recipe Atlereaux d la chalonaise. chalonaise. for Attereaux Attereaux i la normande normande - Make Make up up the the attereaux by Attereaux attereaux by plump mussels mussels cooked d la marinidre, marinire, drained, threading on plump threading drained, and stuffed stuffed with with finely finely pounded fish forcemeat. Add mushand cut in in round round slices. Finish Finish as as described described in the the recipe recipe rooms cut rooms for Attereaux Atlereaux d la chalonaise. chalonaise. for Attereaux i la la pi6montaise pimontaise - Make up the the attereaux with Attereaux with of polenta polenta (q.v.) (g.v.) cooked cooked in in butter, butter, and thick thick slices slices of of slices of slices truffies. Dip Dip them them in in egg and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and deep-fry deep-fry truffies. in sizzling sizzling fat. fa t. in Attereaux i la la Saint-Hubert Saint-Hubert - Make up up the the attereaux attereaux by by Attereaux of pheasant, pheasant, grouse, grouse, or or any any other other winged winged thread ing on on slices slices of threading Add sliced sliced mushrooms mushrooms and and pieces pieces of of cooked cooked lean lean game. Add game. Dip the the attereaux atlereaux rn in Villeroi sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) to to ham. Dip ham.

whichhas hasbeen beenadded concentratedgame gamestock added concentrated stockreduced reducedto which to (q.u.).Finish afumet (g.v.). Finish as asdescribed described in inthe therecipe recipe forAttereaux afumet for Attereaux Iachalonaise. chalonaise. dla pannesan(Parma (Parma style) Attereaur au auparmesan style)- - Cook Attereaux Cooksemolina semolina (q.v.)in inbutter, butter,and andwhen firm,thread whenfinn, threadslices the attereaux. (q.v.) sliceson on the attereaux. Addslices slicesof ofGruyre Gruydre cheese. cheese. Add Dip the theattereaux attereauxin inegg eggand andbreadcrumbs Dip breadcrumbsand anddeep-fry. deep-fry. Attereauxof ofcalves' calves'sweetbreads sweetbreads ViUeroi. Attereaux Villeroi.ATTEREAUX ATTEREAux DE DE RIsDE DEVEAU vEAU VILLEROI vrLLERor - - Braise Braise uniform piecesof RIS uniform pieces ofcalves' calves' sweetbreads in inaa white (q.v.)and white court-bouillon court-bouillon(q.v.) sweetbreads andthread thread them on onthe theattereaux. attereaux. Finish Finishas them asdescribed described in inthe therecipe recipefor for Attereaux dla chalonaise. lachalonaise. Atlereaux Attereaux of ofchicken chickenlivers livers i la Attereaux lamirepoix. mirepoix.ATTEREAUX ATTEREAUX DE DE ForESDE DEVOLAILLE VoLATLLE FOIES ALA u MIREPOIX unBpox - - Fry Frychicken chickenlivers liversin in butter, drain drain and butter, and cool. cool. Thread Thread them themon onthe theatlereaux, attereaux. piecesof with pieces together with together of lean leancooked cooked ham, ham,and andsliced slicedmushmushrooms. Coat rooms. Coat the the atlereaux (q.v.)of attereaux with with aafondue root ofroot fondue (g.v.) pieces, roll vegetables vegetables cut cut into into very verysmall small pieces, roll in in breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, and and finish finish as as described described in in the therecipe recipefor for Atlereaux Attereaux dla la chalonaise. chalonaise. Attereaux TTEREA UX DE Attereaux of of lambs' lambs' brains brains Villeroi. Villeroi. AATTEREAUX DE CERVELLE cERvELLE D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU VILLEROI VILLERoI - - Cut Cut up uplambs' lambs' brains brainsand and cook cook them in aa white (q.v.).Cool them in white court-bouillon court-bouillon (g.v.). anddrain, Cooland drain, and pepper, oil, and season season with with salt, salt, pepper, oil, aa few few drops drops of lemon of lemon juice, and juice, and a a liule little chopped parsley. Thread chopped parsley. Thread on onthe the atlereaux, attereaux, and and finish finish as as described in the described in the recipe recipe for for Allereaux Attereaux dla la chalonaise. chalonaise. Atlereaux Attereaux of of calves' prepared in calves' brains brains are are prepared in the thesame same manner. manner.

Attereaux Attereaux of of lambs' lambs' sweetbreads sweetbreads Villeroi Villeroi

Attereaux Attereaux of of lambs' lambs' sweetbreads sweetbreads ViUeroi. Villeroi. ATTEREAUX ATTEREAUx DE DE Braise Braise lambs' lambs' sweetbreads sweetbreads in in a a white (q.v.) and white court-bouillon court-bouillon (g.v.) and thread thread them them on on the the atlereaux. attereaux. Finish Finish off as described off as described in in the the recipe recipe for for Atlereaux Attereaux d la la chalonaise. chalonaise. Attereaux la Villeroi can, in addition to the basic Attereaux d Ia Villeroi can. in addition to the basic element, also element, also contain contain mushrooms mushrooms cooked cooked in in white mushwhite mushroom court-bouillon and room court-bouillon and cut cut in in slices. slices. Attereaux of of ox palate. ATTEREAUX pALArs DE Attereaux ATTEREAT.Tx DE ox palate. DE PALAIS DE BOEUF BoEUF -Cut the the ox palate (cooked AL or (cooked as Cut ox palate as described described under under OFF OFFAL or VARIETY MEATS, MEATS, Ox palate), into VARIETY Ox palate\, into round round slices. Put them slices. Put them on attereaux allereaux with with alternate on alternate rows rows of of fried fried mushroom mushroom heads heads
RIS RIs D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU VILLEROI vTLLERoI -

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AUBERGINE AUBERGINE
and slivers slivers of oftruffies. truffies. Coat Coat in in Villeroi Villeroi sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) and and allow a\low to to cool. cool. Dip Dip thern them in in egg egg and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and and rollinto intocylindrical cylindrical shape. shape. roll andarrange arrangeon onaanapkin napkingarnished garnished Deep-fryin insizzling sizzlingfat fatand Deep-fry withfried fried parsley. parsley.Serve Servewith withPirigueux Prigueuxsauce sauce(see (seeSAUCE). SAUCE). with Attereaux of of oysters oysters Monselet.Monselet. ATTEREAUx ATTEREAUX o'suitnns D'HUTRES Attereaux MoNsELET MONSELET - Poach Poach and and drain drain oysters. oysters. Thread Thread them them on on attereaux, together together with with cooked cooked mushrooms mushrooms cut cut in in slices, slices, attereaux, and thick thick slices slices of oftrufles. truffies. Finish Finish as as described described in in the the recipe recipe and for Attereaux Attereaux of ofbrains, brains, using using Villeroi Villeroi sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SA UCE) for based on on fish fish stock stock boiled boiled down down to to afumet afumet (q.v.). (q.v.). based of pineapple pineapple (dessert). (ilessert). ATTEREAUx ATTEREAUX D'ANANAS D'ANANAS Attereaux of Attereaux Thread pieces pieces of of pineapple pineapple on on the the attereaux. attereaux. Dip Dip them them in in a a Thread crme frite frite (see (see CUSTARD, CUST ARD, Fried Fried custurA custard) and and breadbreadcrime crumbs. Fry Fry in in smoking smoking hot hot deep deep fat, fat, drain, drain, and and sprinkle sprinkle crumbs. with fine fine sugar. sugar. with Apricot sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) laced laced with with kirsch. kirsch. Serve with with Apricot Serve Attereaux of of salnon salmon - See See SALMON. SALMON. Attereaux Attereaux Pompadour Pompadour (dessert) (dessert) - Make Make up up the the attereaux attereaux Attereaux by threading threading on slices of of stale stale brioches, brioches, alternating altemating with with by cooked in in syrup syrup and halved apricots which which have have been been cooked halved drained. Dip them them in a crime crme frite (see (see CUSTARD, CUST ARD, Fried drained. custard) flavoured flavoured with with kirsch. kirsch. Roll in breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and fry custar{ hot fat. Drain, and sprinkle sprinkle with sugar. smoking hot in smoking of plum slices of Thread slices Attereaux Victoria Victoria (dessert) (dessert) - Thread Attereaux of slices of them with slices pudding on the attereaux, alternating them cooking apples which which have been steeped in rum. rum. Dip in egg cooking and Drain, and fat. Drain, and breadcrumbs and fry in smoking hot fat. in smoking and fry and dredge with fine sugar. dredge
dipartemenl, where Ard'dche dpartement, AUBENAS - Small town in the Ardche the not rival rival the may not truffies they may These, though though they found. These, are found. truffies are flavour of Prigord excellent. P6rigord truffies, are nevertheless excellent. preserves which which are are Marrons glacis are much-prized preserves are much-prized Marrons glacs made at Aubenas. Aubenas. a plant originatAUBERGIhIE AUBERGINE or or EGGPLANT EGGPLANT - Fruit Fruit of of a plant originatthe names of ing in France France under under the names of ing in in India, India, known known also also in France since *ilorgrna melongena and and morelle. morelle. It Ithas has been been cultivated cultivated in in France since In the U.S.A' it is century. seventeenth the of beginning the the beginning of the seventeenth century. In the U.S.A. it is called called eggplant. eggplant. most used in There There ire are many many varieties varieties of of this this plant. plant. The The most used in vegetable and cookery long purple, purple, which which is is used used as as a a vegetable and cookery is is the the long are: the Bar' as as a a girnish. garnish. Among Among other other edible edible varieties varieties are: the Bargiant New purple aubergine,the round aubergine;the bentaie bentane aubergine; the round purple aubergine, the giant New York York aubergine, aubergine, and and the the round round Valencia Valencia aubergine. aubergine. for cootMethods Methods of ofpreparation. preparation. There There are are many many recipes recipes for cookgreatly. ing and the the initial initial preparation preparation varies varies greatly. ing aubergines, aubergines, and oven or in the baked stewed, to be is vegetable When this When this vegetable is to be stewed, baked in the oyen or make its fried, fried, it it must must be be steeped steeped in in salt salt for for 30 30 minutes minutes to to make its excess excess water water ooze ooze out. out. The The aubergines aubergines are are then then thoroughly thoroughly dried and cooked cooked as as indicated indicated in in the the recipes. recipes. dried and or in butter Various Various uses. uses. Aubergines, Aubergines, cut cut in in dice dice and and fried fried in butter or eggs (sur le oil, oil, can can be be used used as as a a garnish garrush for for the the following: following: eggs (sur le omelette); in an an omelette); plat, scrambled, poached, plat, scrambled, poached, fried, fried, or or cooked cooked in noisettes; ot noisettes; cutlets or fish meunibre; meunire; lamb lamb or or mutton mutton chops, chops, cutlets fish (see CHICKEN)' cocotte en or fried chicken tournedosiand tournedos; and chicken fried or en cocotte (see CHICKEN). can grilled, aubergines aubergines can fried or or grilled, lengthways, fried half lengthways, Sliced in Sliced in half fish. fillets of of fish. poached eggs, or fillets eggs' or of poached arrangement of in the be used be used in the arrangement be grilled, they can be they can or grilled, fried or and fried slices and in thick thick slices cut in Peeled. cut Peeled, tournedos noisettes, escalopes, for a foundation as used used as a foundation for escalopes, noisettes, tournedos pieces of meat. of meat. small pieces and other other small and Cut aubergines. Cut 2 firm firm aubergines. Peel 2 h crme crbme i la Aubergines - Peel Aubergines steep in salt for (+ inch) and steep thick, and inch) thick, cm. Ct slices t round slices in round them in ] cm. them in salt for pan or or saut6 pan in a a saut in butter butter in simmer in and simmer Dry, and minutes. Dry, 30 minutes. 30 pan. frying pan. heavy frying heavy sance (} pint, Cream sauce pint,3 cup) Cream ltdl' add I! Ulfore serving, serving, add fuit before Just dl. (i 1 cup) auberthe auberdamage the not to to damage care not (see SAUCE). taking care Stir, taking SAUCE). Stir, (see dish. a vegetable vegetable dish. in a gines. Arrange Arrange in gines. Boil cream- Boil (+ pint, pint, It 1| cups) cups) cream. dl. (t 3 dl. with 3 pan juice with the panjuice Dilute the Dilute (2 oz', g. (2 50 g. add 50 and add heat, and the heat, from the remove from hali remove by half, down by down oz., aubergines. pour over the aubergines. over the and pour Strain and fresh butter. butter. Strain cup) fresh t* cup) aubergines the aubergines Cut the FRITEs -- Cut AUBERcINEs FRITES aubergines. AUBERGINES friea aubergines. Fried pan plunge into deep pan into aadeep and plunge flour, and with flour, dredge with slices, dredge thin slices, in thin in onaa arrange on and arrange salt,and fine salt, with fine season with Drain, season oil. Drain, sizzling oil. of sizzling of napkin. napkin. into cutinto also be becut canalso deep-frying can for deep-frying intended for Aubergines intended Aubergines fan-wise. pieces, or cut fan-wise. orcut square pieces, thick square thick in lengthwise in aubergineslengthwise gratin -- Cut theaubergines Cut the au gratin Aubergines au Aubergines dish, inaadish, leave in and leave incisions and fewshallow shallow incisions Mike aa few half. Make half. hotoil. oil. insizzling fryin sizzlinghot Dry, then thenfry with salt. salt.Dry, thickly with sprinkling thickly sprinkling pulpwithout without outthe thepulp scoopout carefully scoop spoon carefully andwith witha Drain,and Drain, a spoon an addto pulp,and toititan andadd thepulp, Chop skin. Ch outsideskin. theoutside damaging the damaging op the (q.v.)mixture andaatablespoon tablespoon mixtureand duxelles(q.v.) quantity of ofduxelles equal quantity equal parsley. ofchopped chopped parsley. of putthem them andput mixture,and withthis thismixture, skinswith aubergineskins ile aubergine Fill the Fill finely withfinely Sprinklewith dish.Sprinkle fireproofdish. oiledfireproof oroiled buttered or intoaabuttered into or meltedbutter butteror addmelted toasted,add freshor ortoasted, gratedbreadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, fresh grated thetop. toP. brown the andbrown ofoil, oil,and fewdrops dropsof aafew (see SAUCE) Demi'glace(see ofDemi-glace pipea aborder borderof Cooked,pipe Whencooked, When SAUCE) aubergines. theaubergines. around the around aubergines, Halveaubergines, gratin i la lacatalane catalane- - Halve augratin Auberginesau Aubergines egg hard-boiledegg with1Ihard-boiled mixititwith it,and andmix pulp,ch chop thepulp, scoopout outthe scoop op it, o-nign choppedonion ofchopped tablespoon Adda atablespoon finely.Add upfinely. choppedup chopped of finely offinely tablespoonof inoil, oil,a atablespoon friedin lightlyfried hasbeen beenIightly whiifihas which garlic. parsleyand andgarlic. choppedparsley somechopped gratedbreadcrumbs, breadcrumbs,sorne grated above. as cookingas Finishcooking Finish above. as Halve aubergines, gratin il'italienne I'italienne- -Halve au Aubergines aubergines, as Aubergines au gratin quantity of pulp withan an equal chopped mixthe tfechopped andmix above, above, and pulp with equal quantity of garlic. cookFinishcookparsley and chopped little and risotto risotto and aa little chopped parsley and garlic. Finish ing as above. ing as above. Method languedocienne- -Method gratin i lala au Auberginesau Aubergines gratin languedocienne asas meat' sausage withsausage halves aubergine theaubergine fillingthe above,filling above, halves with meaL above. as cookingas Finish cooking above. Finish

3. 3. Very large round purple Very early dwarf purple dwarfpurple purple4.4. Very early round large Very

Varieties aubergines aubergines of Varietiesof 1. 1. Long Very early Barbentane Barbentane Very early purple2.2. Longpurple

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AUBERGINE AUBERGINE

Aubergines Aubergines Imam Imam Baaldi Baaldi (Robert (Robert Carrier) Carrier)

62 62

AUK
Aubergines Aubergioes au au gratin gratin la la portugaise portugaise - Method Method as as above. above.

Fill Fi)) the the aubergine aubergine halves halves with with their their chopped chopped pulp pulp to to which which

has an equal equal quantity quantity of of chopped chopped tomatoes tomatoes has been been added added an lightly in butter, butter, chopped chopped onion, onion, parsley parsley and and garlic. garlic . lightly fried fried in cooking as as above. above. Finishcooking Finish Aubergines la reinereine - Method Melhod as as above. ahove. Fill Fil) the the Auberginesau augratin gratinila aubergine an aubergine halves halves with with their their chopped chopped pulp pulp mixed mixed with with an equal equaJ quantity quantity of of salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) of of chicken crucken bound bound with with 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) thick thick Velouti Velout s&tce sauce (see (see SAUCE). as above. above . SAUCE). Finish Finish cooking cooking as Aubergines ta toulousainetoulousaine- Peel Peel the the aubergines, aubergines, Aubergines au au gratin gratin iIII la cut ina a dish dish cut into into thick truck slices, slices, across across or or lengthways, lengthways, and and leave leave in sprinkled pan of of hot hot oil. oil. sprinkled with with salt. salt. Dry, Dry, and and toss toss in in a a pan Arrange in layers layers in in a a fireproof fireproof dish dish in in rows, rows, alternating alternating Arrange in with of tomatoes tomatoes cut eut in in half half and and also also with an an equal equal quantity quantity of tossed in in oil. oil. tossed Sprinkle SprinkJe generously generously with witb freshly freshly grated grated breadcrumbs breadcrumbs mixed Pour on a a little littJe oil oil mixed with wilh chopped chopped garlic garlic and and parsley. parsley. Pour in the the oven. oyen . and brown brown in and This is sometimes somelimes called called aubergines aubergines d ci la ia This dish dish is
Aubergines Aubergioes au gratin i li la la turque turque - Fill Fill aubergine au bergine halves halves with their chopped pulp quantity of of pulp mixed mixed with with an an equal quantity braised braised chopped mutton, mutton, and rice cooked in in water (taking (taking

languedocienne. languedocienne.

in equal equal proportions). proportions). Add Add chopped garlic garlic and parsley, of cayenne. cayenne. Brown the top. top . parsley, and a small pinch of When tomalO sauce round round the When cooked, cooked, pipe pipc a a border horder of tomato au bergines . aubergines. Aubergines Aubergines in in gravy. gravy. AUBERGINEs AUBERGiNES AU AU JUs JUS - Proceed Proceed as as la crme, crime, brut described in the (he recipe recipe given for Aubergines Aubergines d la but described substitute thickened stock.. substitute truckened veal stock Peel 2 large latge grecque (hors-d'uvre)Aubergines la grecque Peel 2 Aubergines la @ors.d'cuwe) cut them in dice or thick truck square pieces. pieces. Throw aubergines; eut prepared as as a court-bouillon prepared a time, them, a a few at a them, few at time, into into a grecque (see (see d la Ia grecque for Artichokes recipe for in the the recipe described in described Artichokes 12 to for 12 15 to 15 and cook for a full full boil, and ARTICHOKE). Bring to a serve as and serve a terrine tenine with the liquor, and minutes.. Transfer into a minutes an hors-d'uvre. hors-d'auvre. an Peel the the auberaubercnnrfssAUBERGINEs GRILLES Grilled aubergines. AUBERGINES GriJled - Peel a dish dish in a stand in gines, eut slices, and and leave to stand cut them them ioto into thick slices, grill with oil, oil, and and grill Dry them, salt. Dry them, brush with with salt. well sprink/ed sprinkled wilh well gentle heat. heat. on a a gene on a in a the aubergines aubergines in arrange the a vegetable, vegetable, arrange serving as as a For serving For tablespoons a few few tablcspoons with a and dab dab with dish, and shape on a dish, on a crown shape crown (see BUTIER). BUTTER). butter (see d'hitel buller Maitre d'htel of of Ma1re good (Turkish cookery) cookery) --'Take Baaldi (Turkish Imam Baaldi Aubergines Imam 'Take good withlength withentire length their entire them along along their slit them sound aubergines, aubergines, slil sound pulp. Prepare a Prepare a of the the pulp. some of peeling, and out some scoop out and scoop out peeling, out and onions and pulp, tomatoes, tomatoes, onions aubergine pu/p, composed of of aubergine stuffing composed stuffing with aubergines with fill the the aubergines and fill in oil, oil, and mixture in Fry trus this mixture currants. Fry currants. pour in in sufficienl sufficient and pour dish and an earthenwarc earthenware dish Put them them ioto into an it. Put il. bay and aa bay little thyme thyme and Add aa liltle completely. Add cover them them completely. oil oil to to coyer are aubergines are the aubergines low heat heat until until the on low hours on for 33 hours leaf. Cook Cook for leaf. quite soft. cool. Leave to to cool. soft. Leave quite prepare possible, If possi cold. veryco served very beserved dish should be ish should Id . If ble, prepare 'This 'This d be to be aubergines to theaubergines to allow allow the it is is required, required, to it the day before before it it the day oil.' in the the oil.' wellsaturated saturated in weil priest has fainted'. has fainted' 'the priest means 'the Turkish means in Turkish Baaldi in Imam Baaldi Imam . way prepared in in this this way when aubergines aubergines prepared goes that legend goes that when The legend The by somovcd (ptiest), he moved by hewas wasso imam (priest), certain imam to aacertain were offered offered to were sheer from sheer hefainted fainted from that he dish Ihat thedish of the fragrant odour odour of the rragrant the joy. gastronomical joy. gaslronomical Peel (garnish). PURE runrnDD'AUBERGINBs pur6e (garnish). Aubergine pure ' AUBERGINES - Peel Aubergine with dishwith inaadish leave in and leave inslices slices, them in cutIhem aubergines, cul iheaubergines, the , and little withaalittle casserolewith inaacovered covered casserole andcook cook in Drythem, them,and salt.Dry sail. pur6e,add add Heat trus thispure, sieve. Heat Rubthrough throughaasieve. andsalt. salt.Rub butterand butter andserve. serve. (3tablespoons) butter,and tablespoons) butter. 22tablespoons tablespoons(3 (seeSAUCE) SAUCE) sauce(see Bichamel sauce ofthick thickBchamel Afew fewlablespoons tablespoonsof A
these lhese ingredients ingredients

added to the the aubergines aubergines before before rubbing rubbing them them through througb the the added to sieve sievewill willgive givethe Ihepur6e pureaamore more substantial substantial consistency, consistency, and and will will make make it itwhiter. wruler . Peel the auberAubergine salad. sALADE SALADE D'AUBERcINEs D'AUBERGINES -- Peel the auberAubergine salad. gines, 10 stand stand in in a a dish dish with with gines, cut eut into into thin Ihin slices, slices, and and leave leave to salt. il Ia la vinaigrette vinaigrelle (see (see SAUCE, SAUCE, Cold Cold Sauces), Sauces), sail. Dry, Dry, season season d and and add add chopped chopped chervil chervil and and tarragon. tarragon. ,l/ote. NOle. This Th.is salad salad can can also also be be prepared prepared with with aubergines aubergines in salted which which have have been been cooked cooked in salted water, water, drained drained and and dried. dried. sic.urEns - Peel Saut6ed AUBERGINES SAUTES Peel the the Sauted aubergines. aubergines. AUBERGINES (l]-inch) square pieces. aubergines 4-cm . (I-t-inch) square pieces . aubergines and and cut eut them them into into 4-cm. Leave a dish dish with with salt. salt. Dry, Dry, dredge dredge with with flour, flour, Leave to to stand stand in in a and or other other fat fat over over brisk brisk heat. heal. and saut6 saut the the pieces pieces in in oil, oil, butter butter or Serve Serve sprinkled sprinkled with with chopped chopped parsley. parsley. sounrr6rs - Prepare Aubergire souffls, AUBERcINES AUBERGINES SOUFFLES Prepare the the Aubergine souffies. aubergines in the the recipe recipe fot for Aubergines Aubergines au au aubergines as as described described in Add a pulp sieve. through scooped-out gratin. gratin. Rub Rub the the scooped-out pulp through a sieve. Add an an (see equal of thick thick Bichamel Bchamel sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE) . equal quantity quantity of Bind and a a Bind with with yolks yolks of or egg egg and and season season with with salt, salt, pepper pepper and little in whites whites of of liule grated graled nutmeg. nutmeg. At At the the last last moment moment fold fold in froth. a stiff egg egg whisked whisked to to a stift' froth . Fill FiU the the aubergine aubergine skins skins with with the the mixture, mixture, put pUI them (hem into into a a for 8 oven in a moderate cook and dish, fireproof to 10 10 fireproof dish, and cook in a moderate oven for 8 to minutes. minutes. Serve Serve at at once. once. sourrrfns Aubergire Aubergine soufr6s souffls i la la hongroise. hongroise. AUBERGnTs AUBERGINES SOUFFLES A rl LA soNcnolsE HONGROISE - Proceed Proceed as as above, above, adding adding 2 2 tablespoons lablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) chopped chopped onion onion lightly lightly fried fried in in butter, bUlter, and and seasoned seasoned with with paprika. paprika. souFFLEEs parmesarL AUBERGINEs au souff6s Aubergine Aubergine souffls au parmesan. AUBERGINES SOUFFLES (3 tableAU AU rARMESAN PARMESAN - As As above, above, adding adding 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablefilling. the to cheese grated Parmesan spoons) spoons) grated Parmesan cheese to lhe fiJJing.

of of the the lowgr This dpartement dipartement is AUDE AUDE - This is formed formed of low,er part part of always been has good cookery where region a Languedoc, Languedoc, a region where good cookery has always been (which wiJJ found will be specialities (wh.ich the specialities Among the held in in respect. respect. Among be found held cassoulet' well-known cassou is the the well-known order) is alphabetical in their their al phabetical order) leI. in of Castelnaudary Castelnaudary cassoulet of the cassolilet in Aude Aude kinds in are t two There are - the There wo kinds the cassoulet cassoulet is the Another is Carcassonne. Another of Carcassonne. cassoulet of and the the cassoulet and Toulouse. of Toulouse. of introduced white beans, beans, introduced historians, white reliable historians, to reliable According to According long Narbonensis long in Gallia Gallia Narbonensis were cultivated cultivated in Arabs, were the Arahs, by the by The Arabs taught America. from were brought before beans before beans were brought from America. The Arabs taught with white white beans beans prepare a mutton ragot ragofit with a mutton to prepare the inhabitants inhabitants to the (See present-day cassoulet. cassoulet. (See of the the present-day ancestor of which is is the the ancestor wh.ich the which the dish, of which of trus this dish details of further details for further CASSOULET for CASSOULET , of is understandably region Proud.) regioD is understandably proud.) production of of lIins vins ordinaires and large production has a a large Wines -- Aude Aude has Wines ordinaires and (See LANGUEDOC.) d'origine. vins d'appellation d' appellation d vins 'origine. (See LANGUEDOC.)
de comtesse de la comtesse to la household to of the the housebold Head of AUDIGER -- Head AUDIGER a of a author of is the the author Audiger i5 to Colbert. Colbert. Audiger later to and later Soissons, and Soissons, The is The title is the translate.d translated tille which the 1692 of of wh..ich published in in 1692 book published book Noblea Nobleof GOllerning Governing a Art of and the the Art Residence and Wett-brdered Residence WeJJ-Ordered Country and Country Town and Gentlemen's Other Gentlemen House and and Other man's man 's House 's Town in Domestics in and Domestics Staff and of Senior Senior Staff Duties of the DUlies and the Residences, and Residences. lord's of aa lord's composition of the composition he describes describes the In il it he General. ln General. 'household'. 'household'. pois petits pois across petits came across he came 1660, he Italy in 1660, in Ital Travelling in Travelling y in preand prcwith them them and crate with He filled filled aacraIe growing in January. in January growing . He of sight of at the thesight marvelled at who marvelled court, who French court, it to to the the French iented it sented pe tits pois became so was how That vegetable. an early such such an early vegetable. That was how petits pois became so to made ta is made effort is every effort today every even today whyeven and why fashionable, and rash.ionable, aspossible. produce them asearly earlyas them as Possible. produce The iiI/le little (wk auk family. Alcidae family ofthe the Alcidae ALeuE - - Sea Seabirds birds of AUK. ALQUE . The AUX. grown. ILS Itswings wingsare are (16jnches) fully groWfl. inches) when whenfully 38cm. cm.(/6 measures 38 measures from birdto toescape escapefrom the bird enables the whichcnables flying, which forflying, equipped for equipped it. pursuitof hunting il. fishermenhunting offishermen thepursuit the to isfrequently frequentlyto regions,ititis Arctic regions, inArctic originatingin Although originating Although 63 63

AUNIS AND ANDSAINTONGE SAINTONGE AUNIS

be seen in autumn and winter on the coasts of England, be seen in autumn and winter on the coasts of England, Scotland, Belgium and France. It migrates as far as Spain, Scotland, Belgium and France. It migrates as far as Spain, P-ortugal, Italy and Algeria. Not infrequently it breeds on Portugal, ltaly and Algeria. Not infrequently it breeds on the French ocean coasts. The Icelanders call it alka (aalga) the French oceancoasts. The Icelanders cali it alka (aalga) or klumba. The flesh and fat of these birds are greatly vahied or klumba. The flesh and fat of these birds are greatly valued by fishermen, who snare them among the rocks where they by fishermen, who snare them among the rocks where they nest. nest. of which are areused usedfor fordistilling purposes (see distilling purposes (seeCOGNAC). COGNAC). ofwhich Thevineyard vineyardproprietors proprietors of of this this region regionmake make aaliqueur liqueur The winefor for themselves themselves and andtheir their friends, friends, white white or orsometimes wine someiimes red, locally locally ca calledpineau. Itis ismade pouring local made by bypouring local brandy red, lied pineau. It brandy on the the must must du during fermentation, which which is is thus thusarrested, arrested. on ring fermentation, preservingail all the the fruit. fruit. preserving

vegetables and fruit of the first quality are grown. Animals vegetables and fruit of the first quality are grown. AnimaIs raised for food produce meat of excellent quality, including of excellent quality, including raised for food produce meat some very good lamb; and from the neighbouring sea and and from the neighbouring sea and sorne very good lamb; lakes of the region come fish and shellfish acceptable to lakes of the region come fish and shellfish acceptable to gastronomes. gastronomes. Among the specialities are the oysters of Marennes, La Among the specialities are the oysters of Marennes, La Tremblade, and Chdteau d'Ol6ron; they are white, or Tremblade, and Chteau d'Olron; they are white, or stained with the fine green weed from the fattening ponds, stained with the fine green weed from the fattening ponds, and are considered the best in the world. The pirtuguese and are considered the best in the world. The Portuguese oysters which are bred here have a specially delicate flavour. oysters which are bred here have a specially delicate flavour. Other shellfish include mussels and clams of Cl6ron and Other shellfish include mussels and clams of Clron and La Rochelle, cockles cockles which which are are found found in in the the Marennes Marennes La Rochelle, fattening ponds, prawns (salicoques) which are locally fattening ponds, prawns (salicoques) which are locally called chevrettes, and shrimps, which are called boucs. called chevrettes, and shrimps, which are called boucs. La Rochelle, after Boulogne, is the greatest fishing port in La Rochelle, after Boulogne, is the greatest fishing port in France, and among fish found in the region aiJ hake, France, and among fish found in the region are hake, coalfish (U.S. pollock), and sole, which are sold immediatelv coalfish (U .S. pollock), and sole, which are sold immedia tely after being caught. Fresh Fresh sardines, sardines, known known as as Royan Rovan after being caught. sardines, enjoy a wide reputation, and there are also grey sardines, enjoy a wide reputation, and there are also grey mullet (called meuils locally) and brill (U.S. sea perch)-. In mullet (called meuils locally) and brill (U.S. sea perch). In the Charente and Sdvre Niortaise and their tributaries there and Svre Niortaise and their tributaries there the Charente are eels which are delicious stewed or m matelote. are eels which are delicious stewed or en matelote. Fruit and vegetables vegetables are particularly good. The garden Fruit and are particularly good. The garden peas are sweet and tender; it is this variety that is canned at peas are sweet and tender; it is this variety that is canned at Bordeaux and La Roche-sur-Yon. Bordeaux and La Roche-sur-Yon. Broad beans from Marennes and the island of Oldron Broad beans from Marennes and the island of Olron are considered the best in the world. Kidney beans and red are considered the best in the world. Kidney beans and red beans (mogettes') are excellent. beans (mogettes) are excellent. and _ Orchard Orchard and vegetable vegetable garden garden produce produce include include Saintonge Saintonge (nectarines); brugnons brugnons (nectarines); the the apples apples of of Saint-porchaire Saint-Porchaire (reinettes grrses and clochard)which are exported to England; (reinettes grises and clochard) which are exported to England; white Chasselas grapes; mushrooms such as cipes and oyster white Chasselas grapes; mushrooms such as cpes and oyster mushrooms; Saintonge oranges; brunettes; pleurote du mushrooms; Saintonge oranges; brunettes; pleurote du panicot. panicot. The game of this region is of excellent quality. The finest The game of this region is of excellent quality. The finest butter, Which can compare with the best Normandy butter, butter, ~hich can compare with the best Nonnandy butter, is made in Aunis. is made in Aunis. Culinary Mouclade (mussels (mussels d la la crdme); crme); Culinary specialities specialities - Mouclade mussel soup; roast mussels (cooked on cinders); oysters with mussel soup; roast mussels (cooked on cinders); oysters with sausages; razor-Jish sozp (solen); razor-fish stuffed with sausages; razor-fish soup (solen); razor-fish stuffed with breadcrumbs which have been mixed with chopped garlic breadcrumbs which have been mixed with chopped garlic and parsley and browned on top; scallops auxfiies hirbes; and parsley and browned on top; scallops aux fines herbes; ragofrt of lavagnons; small cattlefish fried in deep fat; deepragot of lavagnons; small cut tlefish fried in deep fat; deepcrameou (crabs fried fried crameou (crabs that that have have shed shed their their shellsf; shells); hake hake soip soup (made with the fish head); chaudrie (fish soup rather liki (made with the fish head); chaudre (fish soup rather Iike the Breton cotriade); roast eel; fried eels du Mignon. the Breton co triade) ; roast eel; fried eels du Mignon. Special meat and poultry dishes include chickmfricassde Special meat and poultry dishes include chickenfricasse with with onions onions and and potatoes; potatoes; Aunis Aunis civet, civet, which which is is made made of of pig's fry; a salmi of sea birds; vanous charcuterie; rillettes pig's fry; a salmi of sea birds; various charcuterie; rillettes (potted pork); pktds and terrines; btack and white puddings. (potted pork); pts and terrines; black and white puddings. Other Other special special dishes dishes of of this this region region include include roast roast garlic, garlic, cooked on hot cinders, which is eaten with butter; curds d Ia cooked on hot cinders, which is eaten with butter; curds la chardonnette; jonchie (a kind of cream cheese made with chardonnette; jonche (a kind of cream cheese made with ewe's or goat's milk); vafious fouaces (scones) and coireaux ewe's or goat's milk); variousfouaces (scones) and coireaux (made of maize flour); la fouie (oil seed cake); gLteau (made of maize flour); la foue (oil seed cake); gteau d'Assemblie; Easter gdteau; Taillebourg brioches ; grape d'Assemble; Easter gteau; Taillebourg brioches; grape jelly; Pons jel/y; Ponsrusks; rusks;Frangipane Frangipane tart. tart. Wines - Saintonge produces mediocre table wines, most Wines - Saintonge produces mediocre table wines, most

AttNIS AND SAINTONGE -- The The region resion of of Aunis Aunis has has AUNIS AND SAINTONGE fertile, well-cultivated lands, lands, where where crops itops of of cereals, cereals, fertile, well-cultivated

AURILLAC -- Town Town in in the the Auvergne Auvergne region, region, which which is AURILLAC the is the centre of production of of the theproduction of Cantal Cantal cheese. cheese. centre AURIOL -- Name Name for for mackerel mackerel in Marseille. in Marseille: AURIOL AUROCHS -- Wild Wildox, ox, ox plains. This ox of of the the plains. This animal, animal, which which AUROCHS past used in the the past used to to be be found found in in the the forests forests of of tempera temperate te in Europe, is is now now only only found, found, and and in in very very small small numbers, numbers, in in Europe, Lithuania, in in the the Carpathians Carpathians and and in in the the Caucasus. Caucasus. Lithuania, The meat meat of of aurochs aurochs is prepared as is prepared as ordinary ordinaiy beef. beef. The (A AURORE L') Name principally to applied principally to a a sauce, sauce, the AURORE ( L') -- Name applied the recipe for for which which is given in is given in the the section section on on sauces; sauces; and and to to ail all recipe the dishes dishes cooked cooked with with this this sauce. sauce. the This name name is given to is also also given to a a dish dish of of stuffed stuffed hard-boiled hard-boiled This (see EGGS, eggs (see EGGS, Aurora Aurora eggs). eggs). eggs The name name also also applies applies to to a a cheese cheese made made in in Normandy. Normandy. The AUSTRALIA. AUSTRALIE eusrnaur -- Australian Australian vineyards vineyards and AUSTRALIA. and wines wines (see WINE). WINE). (see AUSTRIA. AUTRICHE AUTRTcHE -- Austrian Austrian wine (see wine and and cuisine cuisine (see AUSTRIA. WINE, INTERNATIONAL INTERNATIONAL COOKER COOKERY). WINE, Y).

Papin Papin marmite marmite or or autoclave autoclave (Conservatoire (Conservatoire des Arts et et Mdtiers. Mtiers. Phot. Phot. des Arts J J Boyer) Boyer)

boiling boiling point. point. No No living living bacteria bacteria can can survive survive the the temperature temperature of of 120"C. 120C. (248'F.) of time. time. (248F.) in in a a liquid liquid medium medium over over a a certain certain period period of Thus Thus the the autoclave autoclaveis is used used in inthe thecanning canningindustry industryto to sterilise sterilise food food products products contained contained in in hermetically hermetically sealed sealed cans. cans. (See (See PRESERVATTON PRESER VA TI ON OF OF FOOD.) FOOD.) This This instrument instrument was was invented invented by by Denis Denis Papin, Papin, and and the the original original Papin Papin marmite marmite has has become become popular popular once once again again in in the ofthe thepressure pressurecooker, cooker, which, which, by bybringing bringingfood food to to the form form of a a temperature temperature often often reaching reaching 140'C. 140C. (284'F.),'makes (284F.), makes it it possible possibleto tocook cookin inaavery veryshort shorttime timedishes disheswhich whichwould wouldtake take much much longer longer cooked cooked by by the theordinary ordinarymethod. method. The Theresults, results,though thoughacceptable acceptablein inaagood goodmany manycases, cases,are, are, however, however, far far from from being being as as good good as as those those obtained obtained by by the the traditional traditional methods. methods. The The decomposition decomposition of ofcertain certain foods, foods,
64 64

AUTOCLAVE AUTOCLAVE (Pressure (Pressure cooker) cooker) - High-pressure High-pressure steam steam vessel. vessel. A A sort sort of ofboiler, boiler, with with very very strong strong walls, walls, which which can can be be closed c10sed hermetically. hermetically. It It is is provided provided with with a a safety safety valve, valve, and and is is capable capable of of raising raising the the temperature temperature of of the the water water above above

AUVERGNE
meat meat in in particular, particular, is is taken taken much much further further than than in ordinary ordinary cooking. cooking. Furthermore, Furthermore, vitamins vitamins can can be be entirely entirely destroyed.

AUTO-INTOXICATION, AUTO-INTOXICATION, DIGESTM DIGESTIVE - This This form form of intoxication, intoxication, due due to to healthy healthy foods foods ingested ingested in in excessive excessive quantity quantity and and subjected subjected to to bacterial bacterial putrefaction putrefaction in in the
intestines, not be be confused confused with with alimentary alimentary intoxicaintestines, should shouJd not tion due to to ingestion ingestion of of toxic toxic foods foods or or foods foods which which have have gone gone tion due bad. bad.

AUTRICHIENNE AUTRICHIENNE (A ( L) V) - This This expression is is applied applied to various various preparations preparations characterised, as in the case of those those la hongroise, hongroise, by being seasoned with paprika, or called d
Hungarian Hungarian pepper, pepper, and and sometimes sometimes by the addition addition of of onion, onion, lightly fried, of of fennel fenne! or sour cream. cream. lightly
porringer from Auvergne from old old Auvergne and porringer dredger, ewer ewer and Pewter sugar sugar dredger, Pewter

Auvergne (French TouriSI ( F r e n c h Governmenl o u r is t Office) c e)

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AUVERGNE -- There of this this cookery of a belief that the the cookery is a There is belief that region potie, made soup or made of cabbage soup or pote, of of cabbage region consists consists entirely entirely of fresh pork. fresh and and salt salt pork. In dish. Each Auvergnat dish. Each pofte is specifically Auvergnat not a a specifically In fact, fact, pote is not region potie. has its its pote. France, has Ile de de France, including the the Ile of France, France, including region of There potde, a dish; the the a wonderful wonderful dish; is the There is Bourguignonne pote, the Bourguignonne Alsatian as is of Cantal; Cantal; po tie which, is that that of too, is is succulent, succulent,.as Alsatian pote which, too, the potie, which and the the very savoury, savoury, and which is is very Languedoc pote, the Languedoc Parisian pote, which figures daily fare of of the the of fare on the the bills bills of daily on Parisianpalie,whichfigures capital's poties manyother other potes There are, are, besides, besides, many capital's restaurants. restaurants. There in alphafound in in their their alphawhich will will be be found for which in France, France, recipes recipes for betical freshor or are made made of of fresh them are SOUP. Ali All of of them betical order, order, under under SOUP. salt ions, carrots, on onions, pork as with cabbage, cabbage, carrots, element, with salt pork as a a basic basic element, leeks potatoes completing the dish. dish. leeks and and potatoes completing the Auvergne picturesque (for these charmingly picturesque Velay (for these two two charmingly Auvergne and and Velay regions gastronomes offering gastronomes are rural rural areas areas offering regions are are inseparable) inseparable) are wholesome, 'with aastraightstraightcountry cooking cooking'with wholesome, unpretentious unpretentious country forward, (to quote quote Curnonsky). Curnonsky). forward, honest honest flavour' flavour' (to Besides peasant soups like soups like are peasant soup, there there are Besides the the cabbage cabbage soup, mourtayrol, (beef,ham, pot-au-feu (beef, ham, great Auvergnat Auvergnat pot-au-feu mourtayrol, the the great chicken, (chestnut soup); and the cheese the cheese cousinat(chestnut soup);and chicken, saffron); saffron); cousinat soup soup of of Cantal. Cantal. Excellent The orchards orchards grown in in Auvergne. Auvergne. The Excellent vegetabies vegetables are are grown 65 65

(apricots, peaches, peaches, fruit (apricots, choice dessert fruit of Limagne produce choice important the important pears, cherries) supply the and also also supply cherries) and apples, pears, apples, Auvergne of Clermont-Ferrand. Clermont-Ferrand. Auvergne fruit industry of crystallised fruit are weIl well known. known. chestnuts are and chestnuts walnuts and raised which which pasture lands, are raised lands, oxen oxen are In the mountainous pasture the mountainous In greatly valued, valued, Mutton is is greatly give meat flavour. Mutton of excellent excellent flavour. meat of give and VassiviEres and in Vassivires particularly that sheep raised raised in from sheep that from particularly Chaudesaigues. Chaudesaigues. its delicacy of of its known for for the the delicacy pork of is known of Auvergne is The pork The which can can of charcuterie cftarcuterie which kinds of is made into into many kinds This is flesh. This cities. and other other big big cities. Paris and shops of of Paris be found found in in the the shops be quality of of that that poultry of not have have the the quality region may may not of the the region The poultry The game of good, as of as is is the the game it is is nevertheless nevertheless good, Bresse, but but it raised at at Bresse, raised ground and winged. and winged. both ground Auvergne, both Auvergne, pike perch, tench, tench, pike Carp, perch, fish is is excellent. excellent. Carp, The freshwater freshwater fish The provide ingreingreand provide lakes, and rivers and and lakes, in the the rivers eels abound abound in and eels and the found in in the The trout trout found matelotes. The for succulent succulent matelotes. dients for dients are delicious delicious Marsenac rivers rivers are Murols and and Marsenac Massiac, Aurillac, Aurillac, Murols Massiac, Brioude flesh of of Brioude The flesh prepared au la meunire. meuniire. The or d la bleu or au bleu prepared salmon. of Loire Loire salmon. with that that of is comparable comparable with salmon is salmon particularly morels, morels, mushrooms, particularly succulent mushrooms, In In the the spring, spring, succulent Auvergne. of Auvergne. and forests forests of woods and gathered in in the the woods are gathered are of this this specialities of The culinary culinary specialities Culinary specialities specialities -- The Culinary potie, is the There is the succulent succulent pote, very numerous. numerous. There region are are not not very region cabwith cabpork as ingredient, with basic ingredient, as aa basic salt pork is made made of of salt which which is potatoes as as acacand potatoes leeks and onions, leeks carrots, turnips, turnips, onions, bage, bage, carrots, The soupe soupe garlic as local touch. touch.The asaa local with garlic and with companiments, companiments, and pot-au-feu, in which aacabbage cabbage in which kind of of rustic rustic pot-au-feu, au is aa kind au farci farci is chopped with chopped flavoured with and flavoured meat and sausage meat stuffed with sausage stuffed with parsley is garlic and is cooked. cooked. garlic and parsiey small largeand and small hams; large are delicious: delicious: hams; The The charcuterie charcuterie are greaves (blood sausage); puddings (blood sausage); greaves black puddings country sausages; black country sausages; pork (q.v.),made kindof of pork ofaa kind madeof (cracklings) ;and (cracklings); andfricandeau fricandeau (q.v.), pork. piece of saltpork. pdti cooked ofsalt pt thin piece cooked in in aa thin pie made made viande,aapie laviande, are tourte tourte dla Among local specialities specialities are Among local pork puffpastry filled with with pork andfilled with puff in pastry and lined with shallow dish, dish, lined inaashallow of made of omelettemade anomelette brayaude, an and omelette brayaude, veal forcemeat; forcemeat; omelette and veal ham potatoes and lean and diced diced le diced potatoes beaten an ham with diced mixedwith beatenegg egg mixed pan, is with isfilled filled with inthe fryingpan, the frying which, istumed over in itis turned over which, before beforeit which deSaint-Flour, Saint-Flour, which grated cream;friands de grated cheese and thick thickcream;friands cheese and charcuterie; sellingcharcuterie; shopsselling are Parisianshops theParisian inthe found in arelike like those those found garlic,braised withgarlic, braised isstudded studdedwith leg which is lambbrayaude, brayaude,which legof oflamb wine, in white whitewine, aromatics in with andaromatics vegetables and usual vegetables with the the usual andsometimes sometimes with onions, onions, and and red beans, beans, with with red andserved served with inaashallow shallow cookedin with de , potatoes cooked truffade,potatoes cabbage; truffa with braised braised cabbage; garlic,and and- withgarlic, pan flavoured with panwith ofbacon, bacon,fiavoured leanrashers rashers of with lean cheese; Tomme cheese; dicedTomme added fresh diced minute - - fresh last minute atthe added at the last dish vin,aadish pork; coq pickled park; coqau anvin, potatoes Muratpickled potatoeswith with bacon; bacon;Murat Puy-de-D6me isis for thePuy-de-Dme ofthe innsat atthe thetop topof ofthe theinns for which whichone oneof well Saint-Flour. tripouxof ofSaint-Flour. wellknown; known; the thetripoux

AUVERGNAT AUVERGNAT

MI'. . ta Moulihs ou 1ns. .lourte Tou,ce adla vionde,F"camn. Fricossin, f'ompe P,pmpe aux oux v'ande, ns. Ioguodes mou.',no,ses. moulinoises 0 ~,accons .. Toquades :i Prdlines. Polets d'or -"", : ~W::,.b~n JA~{;h P,ol,nes. Polers do' BERRY- ~--.Confectione,y. A to coat .lV"--A ~ ~ .! T,uffwes s ~ .,oQ" l S - . ., ~ , 9ALLIER r-SOD (', 1 S. ' k chees : , '" 0"(' ~"CIOU e, 1 n ...; .!>1onllllllliiult \l 0 1 . /.''''.'' ~~. Rou)adoux ~ yonnade. Pompe aux Tou,ce 0.'0 v,onae ec!.~. 1 l . ViireUIlr.s g,al[On' dIa vola,lIe. F"coss'~/J .1'vt.;ri" S.\(l\ll' n Il J,op'alI'..'se Goune,/e. Sucre de Honey.. ~'7-" 0 ! . _~Jouri' ci la cerises 1 O.' la VO.la;/le
Stuffed chicken Stuffed chicken with with ! s~"r6o-fi.IJ chestnuts, Game chestnuts. ~,~, ('('p' "Oi~ Game

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A VINER -- French AVINER French word word meaning meaning to to season, season, or or impregnate impregnate aa new new wine wine cask cask to to make make it it lose lose the the taste tasteof of wood. wood. To To season season aavat vat also press the also means means to grapes as to press the grapes as the the vat vatis is being filled. being filled.

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Vegetables and frUit: Fruit pdces ~)

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Co ou ~/n q h BI ue c eese

~'J Chocol;ue. FrUit pces OJJicl.:'{1ucs : PU"{-OE-OQM\i> L la i l ' e S . .N, clrure ~' ~\' S,. Tripoux Ham /"""'---_~ Ch,ese ~ ~oob ~~.Ambe.rt 'flntlll'me
'-., - RO'y"iJt

Aprocot an .~ . ~I" NAIS ~angeliCa pces ~ Crunchles 'Clcrmonl-F9-'.J ~ !Jl1rpirc

~ Rill~lsarley ~\ "_~,lIord ,jclWI\fon. if" ( . ThIers .' .. LYON"

"

/ . " Ichy:. T,?ut . , Crayfish, Cepes a la rme. Ragot of carrot. Il }" sugar. FrUit pces ,sWsalmlS of.mutton

11/
1

Cheese cak'

villn-a.,t,,J'Rf

~-,..../' ~

JOm

<:>, ~

Tripoux
II'

'.

1'1~ >
<;)

M!-~ ~o -Fourme ",Mo,eli~ . Dore"" ,,,J>. ssoirecheese Leg of lamb

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j>

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1 -~~o\~~f-o" ~r.~'J'~~:''''''J-~_titlJ'rJa~IC

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lk \\1 brayoude

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Maur
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, ,

Founlorde

'B~. ~
J 1

Il

-4 ~o'\;~~Cib",'Ham
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.D"" A-" .ura"'tratP corne.,!s \~. i DO J CI o-ti'" '.'. .~ "'" ~ ~.$ ~ A! Flour Pu pamles ~
-\"~ ,~Vic.s/Cere

A ko" 'V ~"\.

,~

Tripoux, P'ckled pork

Saus!.ge. s ) --'L' ANGUE ;(.'

rlOU

. '.

~- M;r-;"s

Salmo~ ....

C':

A voeado pear pear Avocado

(o~1- g\l J,CANT~L

~""" Tarts. Bt/ses

~ ..
_.."~

and Farces

urillac .~/' P~ta~:;,se d /0

Tr!poux, Ham. Salaison, ,.' ~ Goose, Turkey,. Fourme cneese, 1 .CfJaudeSUgues. Trout Truffado, Chestnuts, Bourrloles \~. ," Caldagues leg of lamb (buckwheat pancikes) :q,<" ,;:

r,,,.

.,

Sto8':~: r)
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,\(vV)

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YENNE
Gastronomic map of Auvergne Gastronomie Auvergne

o SlFou-rcain

PrlnclFl

*ortrr:

the fish fish dishes, Among the je/lied eel is dishes, Ussel jellied is notable, notable, and game dishes, among the the game dishes, Brioude thrush thrush cutlets. cutlets. The The pasta products products of Clermont-Ferrand Clennont-Ferrand are are excellent. Sweet Sweet dishes and confectionery fiagnarde.- millards and confectionery include flagnarde; millards de de cerise; Clermont-Ferrand angelica; Clermont-Ferrand angelica; Thiers Thiers crunchies; crunchies; Riom ichaudi; Murat chaud; Murat cornets; cornets; Saint-Flour bltises btises and farces; and farces; Aurillac Aurillac chestnut tart buckwheat pancakes. pancakes. tart and and buckwheat Cheeses Cheeses of Auvergne include the famous Cantal Cantal cheese; cheese; the the Bleu Bleu d'Auvergne, d'Auvergne, the the small small Riommois cheeses; goat's cheese. milk cheese. Wines Wines - The vineyards of of this region {o <;lo not produce any great red sorne very good good table wines. wines. red or white wines, but some The wines wines of Auvergne Auvergne are are classed classed among among the the V.D.Q.S. They appellations Ctes d'Auvergne and and Vins They are are the the appellations C6tes d'Auvergne d'Auvergne, from from the Gamay Gamay and and white and and black black Pinot grapes. Chanturgue known of of the the local vineyards. Chanturgue is the best known AUVERGNAT AUVERGNAT - Variety of of vine, native native of of Auvergne Auvergne and cultivated cultivated in the country around Orl6ans. Orlans. It is best known because because of of the the poet poet Boileau, Boileau, and does does indeed indeed produce produce wine which, as he heady and and of of a strong strong colour. As far he says, is heady back back as as the the days days of of Louis Louis XIV, XIV, inn-keepers inn-keepers were were in the the habit as the the ofmixing it with with lighter lighter and and less-coloured less-coloured wines, such as of mixing it lignage, lignage, to to obtain obtain pale pale or ros6 ros wines, wines, which which were were sold sold under under the of Ermitage, Ennitage, and which which are are now now known known under under difdifthe name name of ferent ferent names. names.

A VOCADO PEAR. AVOCADO PEAR. AVOCAT The fruit AvocAr -- The fruit of of the the avocado avocado tree, tree. native of of tropical tropical and and sub-tropical sub-tropical America. America. The The kernel, kernel, in in the middle middle of pulp, is of the the pulp, is about about the size of a the size of a walnut. walnut. The The fiesh flesh of of the the avocado avocado is prized by is much much prized by the the Americans. Americans. It It is is thick, thick, buttery, buttery, spreads spreads like like butter, is and is butter, and nutty in in taste. The The avocado pear is avocado pear is slightly slightly acid. acid. It It is is eaten au naturel eaten au naturel or seasoned UCE) or seasoned with with Vinaigrette Vinaigrette sauce (see SA sauce (see SAUCE) or stuffed stuffed with crab salado salad. F or sorne For some years now chefs have have been been testing testing their ingenuity in in the the creation of new new recipes for (avocado soup, for this this fruit fruit (avocado soup, creamed creamed avocados, avocados, avocados avocados as as dessert, dessert, etc.). etc.). The The best best variety of avocado pear pear cornes comes from Brazi!. Brazil.

Avoeet

in countries countries with cold or temperate temperate climates, particularly in climates, particularly cold or of Europe Europe and America. America. along the coasts coasts of along The flesh fiesh ofthe of the avocet, although although quite quite delicate, delicate, savours savours of of The consists almost almost entirely entirely of of fresh fresh the food it lives on, which consists wonns and aquatic aquatic insects. insects. fish, worms European avocet avocet is is about about the the size size ofa of a pigeon, and and is is The European Avocet shooting shooting is is pracpracrecognisable by its pied plumage. Avocet Poitou. tised in Poitou. AH the the culinary culinary methods methods All given for for teal teal (q.v.) (q.v.) can can be be given applied to avocet. avocet. applied

AVOCET_ AvocErro AVOCETIE- A genus of wading wading birds. birds. It It is is found found AVOCET. - genus of

AVICE AVICE - French French pastry-cook, pastry-cook, contemporary contemporary of of Antonin Antonin Carme. Carme. In In his his books, books, Car6me Carme speaks speaks of of him him with great great
respect and gives gives him him first first place place among among the the pastry-cooks pastry-cooks of of respect and that brilliant brilliant epoch. epoch. that

- Village Village in Champagne, Champagne, cradle cradle of of Champagne Champagne wine wine Ay AY it became became a a sparkling sparkling wine). wine). (which was was famous even even before before it (which Leon X, Charles Quint, Quint, Henry Henry VIII VIII and and Frangois Franois I 1 had had Leon
66 66

AZYMOUS AZYMOUS
officers permanently stationed at Ay Ay to look look after after the the precious officers permanently stationed vineyard and supplies of of aod ensure that the court had regular supplies the wine. Henri willingly accepted the title of 'Sire of Ay'. Henri IV williogly

AYAPANA Plant originating originating in in South South America. America. Its A Y AP ANA - Plaot leaves, exuding a a pleasant aroma, are are used as infusions, leaves, exuding pleasaot aroma, used as aperients and soporifics. aperieots in the the same way way as as tea, tea, but but as as the the The infusion is made in smell ayapana is is very very strong, strong, 12 12 or 13 leaves leaves are or 13 smell of of the the ayapana enough for a a six-cup teapot. Ayapana blends blends perfectly perfectly with egg yolks, and with cream.

It is for comcomin taste. taste. It is used used for sweet in acid and and slightly sweet colour, col our, acid liqueur. a much-prized liqueur. and a confectionery and potes, confectiooery as weil well as as throughout in Spain, Spain, as Italy and and in In Provence, Provence, in Italy In jam, which very a very for jam, which is is a it is is used used for Algeria, it of Algeria, whole of the whole the popular preserve. popular
for reonet, rennet, which is is made from from AZtror LZY term for AZI or AZY - French term is added. added. amount of of vinegar is a certain certain amount whey to which a
word AzyME -- Etymologically, Etymologically, the the word AZYMOUS (Bread). @read). AZYME azymous meaos means unleavened unleavened.. azymous unleavened bread; of making their uoleavened The Jews had two ways of by usiog using ordinary ordinary or by the flour, flour, or either by previously grilling the l| teateasalted, allowing allowing li wann water and and salted, flour kneaded with warm fiour (l lb.) paste was pe}450 g. (1 was rolled rolled lb.) flour. flour. The The paste spoons of salt salt pet spoons 450 g. placed on a metal metal I cm. inch) and and placed on a a thickness of 1 cm. (t out to to a thickness of out $ inch) and baked in was then baked in then pricked and sheet. The rolled-out pastry was sheet. a slow oven. a grilled oatmeal flour is is from grilled oatmeal fiour Unleavened bread made from bread made Unleavened in the the same same manner. prepared in

namb of a shrub known rs 01 azarolus WhlCh whrch IS oI lne tne name of koown as Crataegus azarolus same species It is species as is also also called pine as hawthorn. ipine d'Espagne hawthorn . .Tt in France. a service tree. F.rance. This shrub is similar to a

AZAROLE of the the Neapolitan Fruit of Neapolitan medlar; medlar; common - Fruit

The Neapolitan medlar is indigenous to the whole of the Mediterranean area, and it it is is also also cultivatcd cultivated in in the the Paris Mediterranean area , aod yellowish in region. is oval, oval, reddish reddish or or yellowish region. The medlar medlar berry berry is

Azarole

67 67

BABA -- Cake Cake made made of leavened dough, of leavened dough, mixed mixed with with raisins raisins BABA and steeped in kirsch or rum after cooking. and steeped in kirsch or rum after cooking. The invention invention ofthis of this cake cake is is said said to to be be due due to King Stanislas to King Stanislas The Leczinski. Sorne Some authors authors state state that gastronome did that the the royal royal gastronome did Leczinski. not invent invent the the baba baba we know, but we know, but found found a a new new way way of of eating eating not a kugelhopf, kugelhopf, which which had had been been made made in (Lvov) since in Lemberg Lemberg (Lvov) since a 1609. He sprinkled the cake with rum and set it alight as one He sprinkled the cake with rum and set it alight as one 1609. does a a plum pudding. does plum pudding. The kugelhopf, done done in in this great success this way, way, had had a a great success at at the the The kugelhopj, court of of Lorraine, Lorraine, where where it it was was served served accompanied accompanied by by a a court sweetened and and spiced spiced Malaga Malaga wine. King Stanislas wine. King Stanislas was was an an sweetened avid reader reader of of the Thousand and the Thousand and One One Nights, Nights, and and named named his his avid favourite sweet sweet after after one one of of its favourite its heroes. heroes, Ali Ali Baba. Baba. The cake cake was introduced in was introduced at the The in Paris Paris at the beginning beginning of of the the nineteenth century by a pastry-cook, Sthorer, *ho had seen it nineteenth century by a pastry-cook, Sthorer, who had seen it in Lun6ville, court ef He fjf Poland Poland was was transferred. transferred. He in Lunville, where where the the court made it a speciality of his establishment in rue Montorgueil, made it a speciality of his establishment in rue Montorgueil, and called and called it it simply simply 'baba'. 'baba'. Sthorer Sthorer made made the the babas babas in in advance, advance, moistening moistening them them with with a a brush brush dipped dipped in in wine wine just just before selling before selling them. them. Later, Later, the the process process was was to to immerse immerse them them in in rum-flavoured rum-flavoured syrup. syrup. In calledfribourg,, In the the 1840s, 1840s, a a cake cake of of similar similar nature, nature, called jribourg, was was made At the the same same time time a a Parisian Parisian maifte matre made at at Bordeaux. Bordeaux. At phtissier, omitting raisins ptissier, omitting raisins from from the the dough, dough, gave gave the the cake cake another another shape, shape, and and steeping steeping it it in in a a syrup syrup of of his his own own creation, creation, produced the brillat-savarin, which later became savarin. produced the brillat-savarin, which later became savarin. Says Says Lacam: Lacam: 'He 'He gave gave to to his his friend friend Bourbonneux, Bourbonneux, with with whom at Chiboust's, Chiboust's, the the idea idea of of using using the the same same whom he he worked worked at dough dough baked baked in in a a hexagonal hexagonal mould, mould, and and creating creating a a cake cake which of the the heroes heroes of ofla la Dame Dame which was was called ca lied gorenflot, gorenflot, after after one one of de lfontsoreau.' de Montsoreau.'

Large baba baba Large mould mould (Larousse) (Larousse)

Baba

Recipe Recipe used used by by the the pastry-cooks pastry-cooks for for babas: babas: Sift Sift 500 500 g. g. (18 (18 oz., oz., 4] 4t cups) cups) flour flour into into a a large large wooden wooden bowl, bowl, make It teaspoons teaspoons make a a well weil in in the the middle, middle, put put into into this this well well l| salt salt and and 20 20 g. g. G (t oz., oz., Il cake) cake) yeast yeast which which has has been been dissolved dissolved in (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seant *t cup) cup) warm waffi1 milk. milk. Add Add 7 7 whole whole in I1dl. dl. (6 eggs, eggs, and and work work the the paste paste with with the the hands hands to to mix mix well. weil. DistriDistribute bute 300 300 g. g. (11 (Il oz.,l] oz., I!cups) cups) butter, butter, which which has has been been softened, softened, in in small small pieces pieces over over the the paste. pas te. Cover, Cover, and and keep keep the the paste paste in in a wann place place until until the the yeast yeast has has risen risen to to double double its its original original a wann
Rum babas and mould (Larousse\ Rum babas and mould (Larousse)

Add Add 25 25 g. g. (l (1 o2.,2 oz., 2tablespoons) tablespoons) fine fine sugar, sugar, and and knead knead the the paste thatit itabsorbs absorbsthe thebutter. butter.Add Add 50 50g. g. (2 (2oz., oz., scant seant pastewell weilso so that I~cup) cup)currants currantsand and 50 50g. g. (2 (2oz., oz., scant seantI~cup) cup)goiden goldensultanas. sultanas.
68 68

size. size.

BADIAN BADIAN ANISE ANISE

weil.Put Putthe tbepaste pasteinto intowell-buttered well-butteredbaba babamoulds, moulds,filling filling Mix well. upto toone-third one-thirdof oftheir theirheight. height. up 1 Bake Bake in in a a hot hot oven oyen and and allow allow to to cool cool before before turning turning the the babas out out of ofthe the moulds. moulds. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with rum rum or or kirsch. kirsch. babas Syrup for for babas. babas. snop SIROP A BABA BABA - Add Add 2* 2t dl. dl. (scant (scant ] t pint, pin t, Syrq generous cup) cup) rum rum to to l| 1t litres litres (2| (21 pints, pints, 3* 3! pints) pints) syrup syrup generous tooked to .to 104"C. 104C. (219"F.). (219F.). A A small small quantity quantity of of coriander coriander is is iooked ~ometimes used used to to flavour ftavour the the syrup' syrup. sometimes BABIROUSSA - This This mammal, mammal, allied allied to to the tbe wild wild boar, boar, BABIROUSSA Idiffers from from the the latter latter in in the the curious curious development development of of the the differs 'canines. Its Its general general appearance appearance and and squat squat shape shape give give it it a a canines. :certain similarity similarity to to the the rhinoceros. rhinoceros. Like Like the the latter, latter, it it lives lives certain in the the swampy swampy forests forests of of the the Malay Malay Archipelago, Arcbipelago, and and is is in ifairly easily easily tamed. tamed. Its 1ts flesh, ftesh, which which is is prepared prepared in in the the same same fairly Iway as as that that of ofwild boar (q'v.), (q.v.), is is much much ptaed. prized. wild boar way ,BACCHANALIA. BAccHANALES BACCHANALES - Festivals Festivals celebrated celebrated in BACCHANALIA. Ihonour of Bacchus. Bacchus. These These festivals festivals began began in in Egypt, Egypt, spread spread honour of Ito Phoenicia, Phoenicia, and and then th en to to Greece Greece and Italy. Italy. to iBACCHANTE - Priestess, Priestess, votary votary of of Bacchus. Bacchus. BACCHANTE 1

~ix

Bacchus and the the infa)JI infagt Bacchus Leucothea and The The nyrnph nymph Leucothea

Bacchus a barrel on a Bacchus on ofwine. Faence. Faience. (Larousse) (Larousse)

pork in in mean pork used to to mean Once used rurrlE MAIcRE FUM LARD MAIGRE BACON. LARD - Once pork. particularly salt salt pork. general, particularly general, in Segretain Segretain read in (bacon) had killed,'we had been been killed,' 'A big hog (bacon) we read we of Cockayne Cockayne we fable of in the the fable And in tale. And Moine's medieval tale. read: pats si a non Coquaigne Coquaigne a non Si paiS Si gaigne. dart, plus ii gaigne. Qui Qui plus ii dort, d'aloses et d'aloses saumons et bars, de de saumons De bars, De encloses; maisons encloses; toutes les les maisons Sont toutes Sont sont d'esturgeon; d'esturgeon; chevron ii sont Si chevron Si de bacons bacons couvertures de Les couvertures Les de saucisses. saucisses. sont de lates sont Et les les lates Et
CockaYne, land of of Cockayne, land, the the land In this this land, In gain by it. by it. would one wou more one the more one sleeps, sleeps, the more one The more The Id gain and shad shad With bass, salmon and bass, salmon With enclosed; are enclosed; houses are All the the houses AIl sturgeon; made of of sturgeon; are made rafters are Their rafters Their bacon of bacon The roof roof of The aresausages. sausages. slates are And And the theslates meals tomeals in France France to applied in once applied Adjectiveonce BACONIQUE BACOMQUE -- Adjective prepared pork, fresh orsalt, salt, prepared freshor of pork, exclusively of which consisted consistedexclusively which ways. in various in various ways.

BACCHUS the of the Dionysus of god of the Dionysus wine' the of wiile, Roman god BACCHUS -- Roman Greeks. in in Thebes Thebes in legend, in to legend, according to born, according He was was born, Greeks. He Boeotia. was one one mother' was his mother, Semele, bis father. Semele, was his father. Boeotia. Jupiter Jupiter washis of ters of Hermione. and Hermione. Cadmus and daughters of Cadmus of the the daugh When of fiery bolts bolts of (struck down by the the fiery down by lay dead dead (struck When Semele Simele lay her shed had not had not perished have peri would have too, would Bacchus, too, lover), Bacchus, her lover), Jupiter from young fruit of love love from fruit of the young draw out out the Vulcan draw made Vulcan Jupiter made Semele's of daughterof thedaughter Macris, the feet. Macris, his feet. at his lying at body, lying Seinele's body, Aristaeus, put Sabazius put andSabazius her arms arms and into her child into the child received the Aristaeus, received him his of his monthsof nine months the nine complete the to complete god's thigh thigh to in the him in the god's gestation. gestation. - His the nursed the Antoncienursed and Antonoe Agaveand Inno, Agave His three aunts, Inno, threeaunts, child maternal with maternaI him with for him years, and cared for andcared in rus hisearly early years, child in devotion. passed Bacchus passed Nymphs,Bacchus of the theNymphs, handsof the hands From the devotion. From into initiated Musesinitiated TheMuses Silenus.The andSilenus. Muses, and ofthe theMuses, into those thoseof him Silenus dance;Silenus anddance; harmony and of harmony knowledgeof into the himinto theknowledge taught wine. ofwine. making of andthe themaking himviniculture viniculture and taught him The than ratherthan herorather Bacchus aahero makes Bacchus hisbirth birth makes ofhis natureof Thenature aagod; we andwe godand mortal,and andaamortal, ofaagod love-child of god;but heis isthe thelove-child buthe cannot He word.He theword. pagan sense ofthe senseof inthe thepagan hisdivinity divinityin cannotdeny deny rus is corn-bearing goddessof ofcom-bearing wasthe thegoddess Cereswas asCeres wine,as lordof ofwine, isthe thelord and werethe the theywere thatthey thought that ancients thought Theancients agriculture.The andagriculture. sacred which liquid,wruch andthe theliquid, solidand presiding over overthe thesolid couplepresiding sacredcouple sus tain and life. animatelife. andanimate sustain

Badian anise Badian anise

same ofthe thesame tree ofa atree Fruitof BADIANE- -Fruit BADIAN of AI\ISE.BADIANE BADIAI\ ANISE. of name the underthe known betterknown name tasting under name of ofanise. anise.ItItisisbetter name tastingof as used anise.Itltisis Chineseanise. called star Chinese used as aa alsocalled andisisalso staranise, anise,and

69 69

BAGRATION

BAGRATION

carminative in the form of an infusion (50 to 60 g. per litre, canninative in the fom of an infusion (50 to 60 g. per litre, 2.to2l oz. per scant quart, generous quart) and in tfie prepara2 to 2-!- oz. per scant quart, generous quart) and in the preparation of certain liqueurs. Its taste is more pungent than that tion of certain liqueurs. Its taste is more pungent than that of green anise, and the essence to which this-fruit owes its of green anise, and the essence to which this fruit owes its aroma is toxic if taken in heavy doses. Cases of poisoning aroma is toxic if taken in heavy doses. Cases of poisoning as a result of taking too strong an infusion have been known. as a result oftaking too strong an infusion have been known. In India, China and Japan, this plant is burnt to scent the ln India, China and Japan, this plant is burnt to scent the houses; it is eaten after a meal to freshen the mouth, and it is houses; it is eaten after a meal to freshen the mou th, and it is also mixed with tea and liqueurs. also mixed with tea and liqueurs. Badian anise, which was brought into Europe by an Badian anise, which was brought into Europe by an English sailor at the end of the sixteenth century,ls used in English sailor at the end of the sixteenth century, is used in the manufacture of Bordeaux anisette. The seeds of badian the manufacture of Bordeaux anisette. The seeds of badian anise are used in confectionery and pastry-making. In some anise are used in confectionery and pastry-making. In sorne northern countries it is used for flavouring bread. northern countries it is used for flavouring bread. BAGRATION- Thena name ofaaRussian Russian general general who whofought fought BAGRATION - The me of against Napoleon. It is given to various dishes: Bagraion against Napoleon. It is given to various dishes: Bagration soup, Bagration salad (see SOUp, SALAD). soup, Bagration salad (see SOUP, SALAD). BAIN-DE-PBD @ootbath)-- Colloquial Colloquial French French for for an an BAIN-DE-PIED (Footbath) excess of liquid, principally coffee, if it overflows and spills excess of liquid, principally coffee, if it overflows and spills from the cup cup into into the the saucer. saucer. from the

pompe.ii fresco ARoman Roman baker, baker,after A afteraaPompeii fresco

Bain-marie Bain-marie

Cooking such as Cooking in in a a bain-marie bain-marie - Ceriain Certain dishes, dishes, such scrambled scrambled eggs, eggs, butter butter sauces, sauces, custard custard creams, creams, mousses, .oily, disintegrate meat meat and and fish fish loaves, loaves, which which may may turn turn 'oily' or or disintegrate if if they they are are cooked cooked on on direct direct heat, heat, can can be be cooked cooked in their own utensils, hot water. water. In U.S.A. a utensils, which which are are lowered lowered into into the the hot utensil is used used for for this this purpose. purpose. utensil called called the the double-boiler double-boiler is In In France, France, the the name name bain-marie bain-marie is is also also applied applied to to a utensil utensil for for sterilising sterilising babies' babies' bottles. boules.

BAIN-MARIE and confectionery, this is is a a BAIN-MARIE - In In cookery cookery and confectionery, this vessel in which sauces and and other vessel half-filled half-filled with with hot hot water, water, in which sauces delicate delicate dishes dishes can can be be kept kept hot hot until until required. required.

In France, France, the the bakers' bakers' corporation corporation was In wasaaconfraternity, confraternity, or or religious society, society, under under the religious the name name of of talemeliers. talemeliers. Their Their statutes can can be be traced traced back statutes back to to the the time time of of Saint Saint Louis, Louis, and and the oldest oldest complete complete set the set of of regulations regulations in in existence existence is is that that preserved for for us us by by Estienne preserved Estienne Boileau Boileau at at the the begjnning beginning of of the the Registres des (Register of des mtiers mitiers (Regjster Registres of Trades), Trades), collected collected about about 1260. 1260. The first first clause clause decrees: 'No-one can The decrees: 'No-one can become become a a talemelier talemelier in the the suburbs suburbs of in of Paris Paris who who does does not not buy buy the the right right to to trade trade from the the King'. King'. One of of their privileges privileges was One was the the buying buying and and reselling reselling of pigs of pigs paylng for for tbis right, because without paying this right, because they they needed needed pigs pigs to to eat eat the bran which was not yet, in in those those days, days, separated separated from fiom the the flour. To To become a fiour. ter baker, a mas master baker, and and to to have have the the right right to to practise his his trade, a a baker had had to to serve serve a a four-year apprenapprenticeship, and to buy the the master's master's certificate certificate from from the king or or the king from from the king's pantler. From From the time he received this, a right this, a of inspection of inspection wasestablished. was established. Bread ofinsufficient of insufficient weight was was confiscated and and distributed to poor, penalties penalties for to the the poor, for the the violation violation of of the law being being left to the discretion discretion of the head of the head of the community. community. Appeals Appeals were were brought before the grand pantler, pantler, whose the grand whose judgement judgement was final. final. The penalty was was simple: The penalty simple: a a fine fine of of 6 6 deniers (pennies) (pennies) for any violation of the law.

1
I[

BAISER BAISER - In In some sorne regions regions of of France, France, this this is is tle the name name given given to to two two small small meringues meringues joined joined together together with with thick thick creEur cream or or other other sweet sweet mixture. mixture. BAJET - A 1 BAJET A species species of ofoyster oyster commonly commonly found found on on the the coast coast of of west west Africa. Africa. The The shell shell is is flat, fiat, round, round, and and thicker thicker than than that that of of ordinary ordinary oysters. oysters. The The flesh fiesh is is edible edible but but not not verv very delicate. deJicate. BAKERY. BAKERY. BoULANGERTe BOULANGERIE - Shop Shop where where bread bread baked baked by by the the baker baker himself himselfis is sold. sold. 1 The Thefirst first bakers bakers in in Italy Italy were were those those the the Romans Romans brought brought from from Greece, Greece, following following their their campaign campaign against against phiiip, Philip, Hannibal's Hannibal's ally. ally. Later, Later,together togetherwith withthe theireedilaves, freed slaves, bakeii bakers formed formed an an organisation organisation which which enjoyed enjoyed considerable considerable privileges. privileges.
il
1

Ancient bakers' bakers' arms arms Ancient

70 70

BAKERY
Philip the the Fair, Fair, who who introduced introdueed reforms reforms into into this this legislegisPhilip lation, decreed decreed that that the the fines fines should should be be discretionary discretionary and and lation, proportionate to to the the offence. offence. He He appointed appointed the the Provost Provost of of proportionate Paris to to be be the the bakers' bakers' judge, judge, and, and, at at the the same same time, time, conconParis of bakery bakery was was siderably reduced reduced their their privileges. privileges. The The trade trade of siderably to be be free; free; he he forbade forbade the the buying buying of of grain grain in in the the markets markets to for resale, resale, and and permitted permitted private priva te persons persons to to buy buy in in the the for same way way as as wholesale wholesale merchants. merchants . same In 1366, 1366, Charles Charles V V ordered ordered that that the the bakers, bakers, both both in in Paris Paris In and outside, outside, should should bring bring their their bread bread to to the the market market on on marmarand of the the same same flour Bour and and ket days. days . They They must must all ail make make bread bread of ket content, the the same same weight, weight, and and sell sell it it at at the the same same price; price; and content, of loaf, !oaf, one one which which cost cost 4 4 dmiers deniers they should should make make two two sizes sizes of they and one one which which cost cost 2 2 deniers, deniers, the the price priee being being determined determined by by and the weight. wegbt. the In 1372, 1372, the the king king decided decided that that the the price price of of bread bread in Paris Paris In should be be fixed fixed in in accordance accordanee with the the varying price priee of should grain. When When grain grain cost cost 8 sous, sous, white white bread bread or or pain pain dc de chailli grain. costing 2 2 deniers deniers a loaf loaf should weigh 251 oz. when baked' baked. iosting The bourgeoas bourgeois loaf loaf at the same price should weigh weigh 37| 371 oz. oz. I dmier, when baked. baked. Inferior quality pain de brode, costing 1 denier, qwlity pain when should weigh 36 36 oz. baked. baked. should the beginning beginning of the the fourteenth fourteenth century century Charles VI At the decreed: decreed: the bakers bakers may may not buy or cause cause to be bought either 'That the been Bour on on the Paris markets if if the market has not been grain or flour open at least one one hour. open or a a miller or no baker baker can a miller be a time be same time at the the same can at 'That no measurer of grain. bakers may grain except through the except through not buy buy grain may not 'That the the bakers intermediary a sworn-in sworn-in measurer.' intermediary of a In interminable an interminable of an VI, the the rigours of of Charles Charles VI, In the the reign of war, of bread bread sale of prices of cereals, cereals, the the sale high prices and higb war, the the scarcity scarcity and against many of of forced many causes forced other causes and other uncertain payment and against uncertain the ovens. their ovens. destroy their and to to destroy trade and their trade up their bakers to to give up the bakers A reto rethem to ordering them in 1415 1415 ordering issued in was issued decree was written decree A written build pain of banishment. of banisbment. on pain delay, on without delay, ovens without build the the ovens Further In to time. time. In time to from time issued from were issued regulations were Further regulations 1439, one being being measures, one new measures, introduced new VII introduced Charles VII 1439, Charles that In markets. In posted up in the up in the markets. be posted should he price of of bread bread should the priee that the addition, The noon.' The grain before before noon.' not buy buy grain shall not bakers shall addition, 'The 'The bakers bourgeois this and this bread, and own bread, their own baking their were baking classes were bourgeois classes regulation buying, bulk buying, from bulk bakers from preventing the the bakers at preventing aimed at regulation aimed and monoPolY. their monopoly. maintaining their and maintaining There thebakers', bakers', guilds, including including the All guilds, decrees. Ail were other other decrees. There were were 1569,aa In 1569, insignia. In and insignia. banners and own banners have their their own were to to have curious wear: wereto to wear: bakers were what bakers laid down down what regulation laid curious regulation shirt, forwereforThey were cap' They hose, aa cap. trunk hose, without trunk drawers without shirt, drawers bidden closing official closing and official Sundays and go out, on Sundays except on out, except to go bidden to days, monopolies, set up upmonopolies, toset gather together', 'to gather together', to forbidden 'to days, forbidden or weapons. orother other weapons. swordsor daggers, swords weardaggers, or to to wear The hisinthe thehismilestone in marksaa milestone century marks The seventeenth seventeentheentury tory in improvements in Therewere wereimprovements trade.There bakery trade. Parisbakery theParis of the tory of manufacture, regubran,aareguwithout bran, flour without permission to tosell sellfiour manufacture, permission lation new yeast,and thenew andthe brewer'syeast, useof ofbrewer's theuse forbidding the lation forbidding pain (bread roll) roll)proeess. pain mollet mollet (bread Process. The baked Notre-Dame baked ofNotre-Dame Cathedral of ofthe theCathedral The Chapter Chapter of bread vogue hadaavogue whichhad painde dechapitre, chapitre,which called pain wascalled which was breadwhich before ofQueen breadof favouritebread thefavourite bythe Queen superseded by wassuperseded before ititwas Marie brewer's prepared with withbrewer's breadprepared salted bread Medici:aasalted deMedici: Mariede yeast . Then as knownas breadknown camebread Thencame paindla reine. lareine calledpain yeastand andcalled pains de de Pain mllk.Pain withmilk. kneadedwith waskneaded whichwas painsdla laMontauron, Montauron,which Gentilly pain mollet, was therewas mollet,there Besidespaiz withbutter. butter.Besides wasmade madewith Gentillywas pain (pumpkin citrouille(pumpkin pain dla lacitrouille (palebread) andpain painblme bread)and biAme(pale !oaves), small loaves. bakersof ofsmallloaves. thebakers loaves),made madeby bythe Richelieu with and measuresand out-of-datemeasures manyout-of-date withmany away didaway Richelieudid introduced isisininforce to forceto which legislationwhich reforms,legislation boldreforms, introducedbold this day. down: Helaid laiddown: day.He this 71

'Grain 'Grain merchants merchants shall shaH not not make make their their purchases purchases except except outside outside the the ten-league ten-Ieague (40-km., (40-km., 25-mile) 25-mile) limit limit around around Paris. Paris. grain not buy pastry-cooks shall Bakers of small smaU loaves loaves and and pastry-cooks shall not buy grain Bakers of before before l1 Il o'clock o'clock in in summer summer and and noon noon in in winter; winter; large-loaf large-loaf bakers not buy buy grain grain before before 2 2 o'clock, o'clock, to to enable enable the the bakers shall shaU not put needs needs of of the the bourgeois bourgeois to to be he supplied supplied first. first. Bakers Bakers shall shall put scales and keep loaves, on their their their distinctive distinctive trade-mark trade-mark on their loaves, and keep scales and and weights weights in in their their shops, shops, on on pain pain of of being being deprived deprived of of licence licence or or even even more more severe severe punishment.' punishment.' They They were were likewise likewise forbidden forbidden to to store store away away unsold unsold bread; bread : still unsold at a they they had had to to dispose dispose of of it it at a reduced reduced price priee if if still unsold within of baking. baking. within three three days days of and appearance, and 1650, sifted In In 1650, sifted flour fiour began began to to make make its its appearance, bran a time, at a quantity to enabled enab!ed a a great great quantity to be be transported transported at time, bran onwards time onwards From that flour. From of the no no longer longer being being part part of the fiour. that time in the reign of of 1666, in the reign pigs. In In 1666, to raise allowed to bakers bakers were were not not allowed rai se pigs. Fournier, by Fournier, recorded by case was curious case a curious Louis Louis XIV, XIV, a was recorded (Molibre and bread and the the bread mollet (Molire &t pain et le le procis Moliire Molire et procs du pain mollet a (A man Poquelin, a called Poquelin, man called Revue Frangaise. the Revue roll), roll), in in the Franaise. (A conwhich concase, which in the the case, involved in was involved Molibre, was of Molire, relative of relative The yeast had illness). The caused illness). had caused brewers' yeast claim that that brewers' a claim cerned a cemed yeast in was in bread bread was brewet's yeast of brewer's use of the use that the declared that verdict declared verdict forbidden. therefore forbidden. was therefore and was to health, and detrimental to detrimental of number of the number century the eighteenth century the eighteenth of the By the beginning of and 500 and between 500 which between 15, to to which to 15, had risen risen to bread markets had bread a suburbs; a outlying suburbs; and the the outlying city and the city from the came from bakers came 600 bakers 600 and SaintSaintCorbeil and Gonesse, Corbeil from Gonesse, 1,000 came came from further 1,000 further but markets, but main markets, in the the main They traded traded in Germain-en-Laye. They Germain-en-Laye. holdwithout holdplied their trade without their trade who plied bakers who many bakel"s were many there were there bakers These unauthorised unauthorised bakers certificates. These bakers' certificates. ing master master bakers' ing SaintSaint-Jean-de-Latran, SaintTemple, Saint-Jean-de-Latran, the Temple, lived around around the lived the They enjoyed enjoyed the and Quinze-Vingts. la Chtre Ch0re and Denis, la Quinze-Vingts. They Denis, except people from outside, except from outside, as the city as the people in the the city rights in same rights same privileges conferred conferred had ail all the the privileges who had master bakers, bakers, who for the the master for licence. by the the licence. by

I'Arsenal) Bibliotheque (Miniature from the Boulanger-cabaretier (Miniature [rom the Bibliothque dede l'Arsenal) Boulanger-cabaretier

BALACHAN

Bakers at at work, work, after after a a 1ithogra lithograph of 1830 lg30 Bakers ph of

jurisdiction of Louis XIV XIV abolished abolished the the jurisdiction of the the royal royal pantler. Louis Artisans and and suburban suburban merchants merchants were were now now on on the the same same Artisans footing as as those those of of the the town, town, and qualified master and newly newly qualified master footing bakers enabled to practise on to practise on the the same same conditions conditions as as bakers were were enabled their established colleagues paying the colleagues by by paying the same same taxes. taxes. The The their established principal aim of of this this concession concession was was no no doubt doubt due due to to the the principal aim fact years of after severa] several years great poverty poverty among of great among the that aCter fact that people, Treasury was and the the State State was was able was depleted, depleted, and people, the the Treasury to taxation by by imposing on suburban bakers bakers as to increase increasetaxation imposing it it on well city. in the the city. weil as as on on those those in There additional laws compelling compelling each baker to There followed followed additionallaws bring (Abb6 Jaubert, bring a a certain certain quantity quantity of of bread bread to market market (Abb Dictionnaire great Dictionnaire Universel Universel des des Arts Arts et et Mdtiers, Mtiers, 1773) 1773) - a a great hardship, hardship, as as they they had had to to get get rid rid of of all ail the bread bread after a c"itain certain hour, hour, and and so so must must sell seIJ any surplus very cheaply. cheaply. At At this this period, period, the the latter latter part part of of the eighteenth century, century, apprenticeship apprenticeship lasted lasted five five years, years, followed followed by by four four years working bakers' guild. guild. At At the the end of the nine years working for for the the bakers' the apprentice, unless unless he he was was the the master master baker's baker's son. son, had had the apprentice, to paying for a certificate, certificate, to present present his his chdd'euvre, chef-d'uvre, and on paying might might at at last last practise practise as as a a master master baker. baker. Thus Thus matters matters concontinued French Revolution, Revolution, but but even even after after 1789 1789 the the tinued until until the the French breadmaking breadmaking industry industry remained remained under under strict strict control. It It was was only that it it became became free. free. only in in 1863 1863 that Baker's Baker's assistant. assistant. MrrRoN MITRON - The The term term comes cornes from from the the paper paper head-dress head-dress or or mitre mitre which which bakers bakers wore wore at at work. work. Bakery Bakery equipment equipment - This This changed changed very very slowly. slowly. Kneading Kneading was was done done by by hand hand for for many many centuries centuries in in a a huge huge wooden wooden trough, trough, longer longer than than it it was was wide, wide, which which stood stood on on four four legs. legs. It It had had a a flat flat cover cover called called the the tour. tour . Modern Modern bakeries bakeries have have mechanibal mechanical metal metal kneading kneading machines. machines. The The ovens ovens remained remained as as they they are are shown shown in in Diderot's Diderot's Encylopidie En cylopdie from from the the days days of of the the Romans Romans until until the the ninenineteenth teenth century: century :a a block block of ofmasonry masonry with with the the actual actual bakingbakingoven oven inside, inside, square square in in shape, shape, the the inside inside edges edges rounded rounded off, off, surmounted surmounted by by a a dome dome called called the the chapelle. chapelle. The The walls walls were were at atleast least50 50cm. cm. (20 (20inches) inches) thick thick and and the the oven oven was was heated heated by by wood. wood. Coal, Coal, burnt burnt in in a a special special fireplace fireplace below below the the opening opening
72 72

Bakers' ovens, Bakers' 's Encyclopdie ovens, reproduced reproduced from from Diderot Diderct's Encyclopidie

the oven, replaced wood of the ; then wood; gas, oil then came came gas, oil heating, heating, and and electricity . Today, electricity. Today, pipes pipes conta.ining containing a liquid which a liquid which is is first first ber circulate heated in in a a coaJ-fired coal-fired cham chamber circulate round round the the oven; oven; a a system that has the the advantage , uniform and advantage of being being clean clean, and economical. In France, breadmaking breadmaking is stiJl still mainly mainly carried on on in smallsmallscale establishments, producing producing a kg. ofbread scale a few hundred kg. of bread a day, but the the trend trend is is towards mass production in a day, but towards mass in large large factories, with with skilled factories, skilled technical technical organisation organisation and and highly highly developed mechanisation. mechanisation . developed involved in in transforming tran sforming flour flour into into bread The work involved bread is is under the entry BREAD. BREAD. described under

- Seasoning Seasoning much much used used in Siam. Siam. In In Tonkin Tonkin it it BALACHAN is known known as as nukemum. nukemum . It is is mad6 mad of of small small shrimps, shrimps, pounded pounded is with salt salt into into thick thick brine, brine, which which is is dried dried in in the the sun. sun. Balachan, Balachan, with it is is said, said, stimulates stimulates the the appetite appetite and and fortifies fortifies the.stomach. the.stomach. it BALAINE or or BALEINE BALEINE - Name Name of of a a restaurant-keeper restaurant-keeper who who BALAINE ran Ie le Rocher Rocher de de Cancale Cancale in in rue rue Montorgueil. Montorgueil. Grimod Grimod ran de la la Reynibre, Reynire, who who gave gave parties parties at at this this restaurant, restaurant, spoke spoke de very highly highly of of him. him. Carme Carme considered considered him him to to be be a a secbndsecondvery rate caterer. caterer. (See (See RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS OF OF BycONE BYGONE DAYS.) DAYS.) rate BALANUS - Fruit Fruit of of the the balanire, balanite, a a shrub shrub indigenous indigenous to to BALANUS upper Egypt. Egypt. It It is is about about the the size size of of a a hazelnut, hazelnut, and and when when upper an oil oil used used in in the the perfumery perfumery industry. industry. When When pressed yields yields an pressed

fresh and and very very ripe, ripe, the the fruit fruit is is edible edible and and known known as as the the desert desert fresh date; its its flavour flavour is is enhanced enhanced if ifserved served along along with with other other foods. foods. date;

BALLOTTINE BALLOTTINE
BALAOU -- French French name na me for for a a small small fish, fish, similar similar to to the the BALAOU abounds in in Martinique. Martinique. Its Its flesh flesh is is delicate delicate sardine, which which abounds sardine, and easily easily digestible. digestible. and ofcooking cooking sardines sardines can can be be applied applied to to balaou. balaou. Ali methods methods of All BALLOTTINE- Galantine Galan tine normally nonnally served served as as a a hot hot entie; entre; BALLOTTINE it can can also also be be served served cold. cold. The The ballottine ballottine is is made made of of a a piece piece of of it meat, fowl, fowl, game game or or fish fish which which is is boned, boned, stuffed, stuffed, and and rolled rolled meat, into the the shape shape of ofa a bundle. bundle. The The term term ballottine ballottine should strictly strictly into but not not stuffedstuffed. It It is, is, apply only only to to meat, meat, boned boned and and rolled, rolled, but apply however, also also applied applied to to dishes dishes which which are are actually actually galantines. galantines. hbwever, of lamb lamb i la la boulanglre. boulangre. BALLoTTINE BALLOTTINE D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU Ballottine of Ballottine m LA nourANGiRE BOULANGRE - Prepare Prepare llke like Shoulder of of lamb lamb d la A boulangre (see (see LAMB). LAMB). boulangire of lamb lamb A la la bourgeoise. bourgeoise. n,trrorrnsn BALLOTTINE o'lcxnlu D'AGNEAU A Ballottine of Ballottine LA BouRcnotsn BOURGEOISE - Prepare Prepare like Ballottine of of lamb h la bonne bonne LA femme (see below), below), replacing replacing the garnish indicated indicated in in that femme recipe by by garnish garnish d la bourgeoise bourgeoise (see GARNISHES) GARNISHES) which which recipe should be be cooked with the meat. meat. braised i la bonne femme. BALLoTTINE BALLOTTINE BaJlottine of lamb braised Ballottine Stuffa D'AGNEAU BRAISfE BRAISE A LA BoNNE BONNE FEMMS FEMME - Stuff a boned boned shoulder D'AGNEAU chopped onion lamb with with sausage meat meat mixed mixed with with chopped of lamb chopped and chopped which has been lightly fried in butter or lard, and parsley. parsley. string, and with string, into a tie with a ballottine, tie Roll the shoulder into cocotte (deep the oyen. an earthenware cocotte oven. Put into an brown in the in butter, and fry dish). Slice Slice and onions in 12 medium-sized medium-sized onions fry 12 dish). has been (a oz.) lean bacon which has g. (4 together with about 100 g. (* pint, scant cup) dry dry blanched and diced. Moisten Moisten with 2 dl. (t blanched a bouquet bouquet white wine been boiled down a little . Add Ldd a a little. has been wine which has just to cover to coyer garni (q.v.) and meat stock just and enough thickened meat the ballottine. Bring to the boil. to the minutes. 45 minutes. CoYer for 45 hot oyen oven for a hot and put it in a Cover the the cocotte and a lower lower Add cook at at a and cook I lb.) potato balls balls and g. (generous 1 500 g. Add 500 put heat remove string, string, put Drain the ballottine, remove the ballottine, 35 minutes. Drain heat for 35 back in serve. and serve. cocotte, and in the the cocotte, ulBallottine garnishes. BALwith varions various garnishes. braised, witb lamb, braised, of lamb, Ballottine of and LOTTINE ballottine and the ballottine Prepare the BRAIsfE -- Prepare D'AGNEAU BRAISE LorrINE D'AGNEAU braise in the the as described described in dish, as earthenware dish, it in in a deep earthenware a deep braise it potatoes or preceding or bacon, potatoes adding bacon, without adding preceding recipe, but without recipe, but onions. onions. ove string. When string. remove and rem drain, and is cooked, cooked, drain, When the the ballottine ballottine is Arrange garnish, or or serve serve a garnish, with a dish, surround surround with on a a serving serving dish, Arrange on the ove remove liquor, rem braising !iquor, Boil down down the the braising garnish separately. separately. Boil the garnish the pour it it over the ballottine. ballottine' over the and pour fat, strain, strain, and the surplus surplus fat, (see GARGarnishes GARdish (sec for this this dish suitable for are suitable which are Garnishes which NISHES) bruxelbretonne, bruxelbouquetiire, bretonne, follows: bouquetire, are as as follows: NISHES) are loise, mil anais e, maci do ine, milanaise, chipolata, flamande, lo is e,chipolata, i ar dinidre, macdoine, flamande, jardinire, nivernaise. pilaf, rice, pilaf, noodles, rice, with noodles, may be be served served with dish may The dish nivernaise. The risotto, or with butter butter or dressed with vegetables dressed fresh vegetables with fresh also with risotto, also cream, prepared potatoes prepared glazed vegetables, and potatoes vegetables, and or glazed cream, braised braised or in ways. in various various ways. d, with Ballottine garnishes. BALLOTBALLoTvariorc garnisbes. with varions lamb col col{ of lamb, Ballottine of TINE en the quitecold, cold, isquite ballottine is When the ballottine FRoIDE - - Wh rrNE D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU FROIDE pour jelly, and untilset. set' leaveuntil andleave aspicjelly, liquid aspic pour over little liquid it aa little over it Arrange buttered decrusted buttered on aa decrusted or on dish,or on aa serving serving dish, Arrange on croton. chopped jelly' withchoppedjelly. decorate with and decorate Garnish, and cro0ton. Garnish, All poultry and poultry meatand coldmeat forcold garnishes recommended recommended for All the the garnishes are cold ballottine. ballottine. forcold are suitable suitable for BaUottine L'e' o'acNnluALA BALLoTTINE D'AGNEAU in jelly. lamb in of lamb Ballottine of ielly. BALLOTTINE GELE lambwith with oflamb shoulder of flattened shoulder andflattened Stuffaaboned boned and crrfB - - Stuff Galantine withaa mixedwith (see FORCEMEA FORCEMEAT) mixed Galantine forcemeat forcemeat (see salpicon (q.v.) composed truffies. hamand andtruffies. pickled tongue, tongue, ham ofpickled composed of salpicon(q.v.) Roll, in Cookin withstring. string.Cook tiewith andtie pieceof ofmuslin, muslin, and no[, wrap wrap in inaapiece jellystock (q.v.). galantine(q.v.). jelly stock as forgalantine recipefor inthe therecipe described in asdescribed Drain in againtightly tightlyin upagain andtie tieititup unwrap,and ballottine,unwrap, Drain the theballottine, aacloth, in alsoin andtying tyingititalso withstring stringand endwith eachend cloth,securing securingeach the and ballottineand press.Unwrap theballottine Unwrapthe underaapress. middle.Cool Coolunder themiddle.
the stock glaze it glaze it with with cold cold aspic aspic jelly jelly made made from from the stock in in which which it it was was cooked, cooked, clarified cJarified and and reinforced reinforced with with gelatine, gelatine, if if
necssary. necessary.

jelly. Arrange Arrange on on a a serving serving dish dish and and garnish garnish with with chopped chopped jelly.

jellY in jelly of lamb in Ballottine oflamb Ballottine

as MouroN -- Proceed Proceed as DE MOUTON BALLoTTINE DE mutton. BALLOTTINE Ballottine of mutton. Ballottine lamb. of lamb. Ballottine of for Ballottine described for described garnishes. BALn,lrpork, braised, various garnishes. with varions braised, witb of pork, Ballottine of Ballottine poRc BRAISE pork and and of pork Bone a a shoulder shoulder of BRAIsfE -- Bone DE PORC LorrINE DE LOTTINE is braised, braised, ballottine is When the the ballottine of lamb. lamb. When prepare as Ballottine of as Ballottine prepare jelly, and with one one of of and serve serve with glaze with with jelly, string, glaze remove string, drain, remove drain, (see GARNISHES). GARNISHES). meat (see for meat used for garnishes normally normally used the garnishes the pour and pour fat, strain, strain, and remove fat, liquor, remove Boil down down the the braising liquor, Boil ballottine. the ballottine. over the over jetly. BALLOTTINE cnrfn PoRc A LA tr GELE DE PORC pork in BALLoTTINE DE in jeUy. of pork Ballottine of Ballottine lamb Ballottine of of lamb prepare as as Ballottine pork and and prepare of pork Bone a a shoulder shoulder of -- Bone for in the recipe for the recipe jetly. Garnish described in as described serve as and serve Garnish and in jelly. in Ballottine of of lamb. larnb. Ballottine boned Take aa boned DE VEAU vEAU -- Take BALLoTTINE DE veal. BALLOTTINE of veaJ. Ballottine of Ballottine (U.S. sirloin sirloin loin (U.S. of loin end of of chump chump end slice of thin sUce a thin or a shoulder or shoulder for recipe for in the the recipe described in proceed as as described and proceed cutlet), and or cutlet), steak or steak lamb. of lamb. Ballottine of Ballottine with served with can be beserved hot or or cold, cold, can either hot veal, either of veal, Ballottine of Ballottine (seeGARGARmeat (see for meat garnishes recommended recommended for one of of the the garnishes one NTSHES). NISHES). various withvarious servedwith sauce' served dark sauce, with dark chicken with of chicken Ballottine of Ballottine Boneaa A BRUN snuN - - Bone DE POULARDE PouLARDE garnishes. BALLOTTINE BALLoTTINE DE garnishes. it with with aa (see GALANTINE). Stuff it GALANTINE). Stuff fowl (see medium-sized fowl medium-sized (see FORCEFORCEpounded Pork Porkforcemeat quenelle of finely pounded of finely quenelle forcemeat(see MEAT). MEAT). previously hasbeen been previously which has in aacloth cloth which ballottine in Boil the the ballottine Boil itwith withstring. string' and tie tie it ouqand wrung out, water and and wrung in hot hotwater soaked soakedin justenough to chicken stock stock to pan with enough chicken with just in aa braising braisingpan Cook in Cook puton andsimmer simmer lid,and onthe the!id, the boil, boil,put Bringto tothe fowl. Bring coyer coverthe the fowl. minutes. for for50 50 minutes. inthe minutes the l0minu for10 ithot hotfor keepit andkeep ballottineand Drain tes in Drain the theballottine properly.Remove Remove settlesproperly. forcemeatsettles theforcemeat thatthe oyen, toensure ensurethat oven.to and muslin, and through muslin, strainthrough liquor, strain fat braising !iquor, fat from fromthe thebraising pint,scant cup) scantcup) with22dl. dl.(t Blendwith boil bytwo-thirds. down by boildown ftpint, two-thirds.Blend finesieve. sieve. throughaafine andstrain strainthrough thickened vealstock, stock,and thickened veal oven,basting basting glazeititin inthe theoven, andglaze ballottine and Unwrap theballottine Unwrap the with dish,surround surroundwith gravy.Arrange onaadish, Arrange on with with the thethickened thickenedgravy. gtavy; ofthe the tablespoonsof fewtablespoons pourover garnish, and overititaafew gravy; garnish, andpour gravyin inaasauce sauceboat. serve boat. ofthe thegravy restof servethe therest noodles, recommended:noodles, garnishesare arerecommended: The followinggarnishes Thefollowing Demidoff, bouquetidre,DemidofJ: chipolata,bouquetire, celery, orchipolata, mushroomsor celery, mushrooms pirigournigoise,orientale, orientale, prigourespagnole, milanaise,nioise, Godard, milanaise, espagnole,Godard, allother other withail andwith Rossini, portugaise,Rossini, and dine, piimontaise,portugaise, dine,pimontaise, in small servedin fowlserved chickenor orfowl garnishes small forchicken garnishes recommended recommendedfor pieces pieceswith sauce. darksauce. withaadark various with servedwith sauce, liglrtsauce, Ballottine served varions withlight ofchicken, chicken,witb Ballottfureof and Prepare srlNc- -Prepare garnisbes. POULARDE BLANC and PouLARDs A DE garnishes.BALLOTTINE BALLoTTINEDE glazeitit ligbtly. and above, cook described and glaze lightly. as describedabove, ballottineas cookthe theballottine

73 73

BALM BALM
Arrange on a fried croffton, or on a foundation of rice or Arrange on a fried cro ton, or on a foundation of rice or semolina. Surround with a garnish and serve wrth Vetouti semolina. Surround with a garnish and serve with Velout or SuprAme sauce (see SAUCE), using the liquor in which or Suprme sauce (see SAUCE), using the liquor in which the ballottine was cooked. the ballottine was cooked. Recommended garnishes: celery, mushrooms, noodles, Recommended garnishes: celery, mushrooms, noodles, ice, Albufdrq anyersoise, banquire, banquiire,Chi Chivry, demi-deuil, rice, Albufra, anversoise, vry, demi-deuil, ivoire, princesse, rigence, Toulouse, and, generally, with ivoire, princesse, rgence, Toulouse, and, generally, with garnishes recommended for poultry prepared with light garnishes recommended for poultry prepared with light sauce. sauce. Small ballottines of chicken. pETrrEs BALrorrrNEs DE Small ballottines of chicken. PETITES BALLOTTINES DE voLAILLE Ballottines made of chickens' legs, when when the the VOLAILLE - - Ballottines made of chickens' legs, wings and breast are used for some other dish. wings and breast are used for sorne other dish. The legs are boned and stuffed as described in the first The legs are boned and stuffed as described in the first recipe for Ballottine of chicken They are braised d brun or recipe for Ballottine of chicken. They are braised brun or d blanc, and garnished and served as described in the direc blanc, and garni shed and served as described in the directions for Ballottine of chicken. chicken. tions for Ballottine of Sometimes this dish is given the shape of a ham knuckle, Sometimes this dish is given the shape of a ham knuckle, in which case it is served under the name of Jambonneaux in which case it is served under the name of Jambonneaux de volaille. de volaille. Ballottine of chicken in jelly (chaud-froid) f. nanorrwr Ballottine of chicken in jelly (chaud-froid) J. BALLOTTINE DE POULARDE A r.l Cnr Fr (rN cruuo-rnon) _ prepare and DE POULARDE LA GELE (EN CHAUD-FROID) - Prepare and cook as described in preceding recipes. Finish as indicated in cook as described in preceding recipes. Finish as indicated in one of the recipes for cold chicken - Chicken mayonnaise, one of the recipes for cold chicken - Chicken mayonnaise, Niva, parisienne (see CHICKEN). Nva, parisienne (see CHICKEN). Ballottine of chicken in jely II. slrrorrrNE DE pouI-er A BaUottine of cbicken in jeUy II. BALLOTTINE DE POULET L.l csriE Prepare and cook the ballottine as described in LA GELE -- Prepare and cook the ballottine as described in preceding recipes. Unwrap, and allow to cool in its liquor, preceding recipes. Unwrap, and allow to cool in its liquor, which has been strained and the fat removed which has been strained and the fat removed. Arrange the chicken on a serving dish, glaze, and decorate Arrange the chicken on a serving dish, glaze, and decorate with jelly made from the stock in which it was cooked. with jelly madefrom the stock inwhich it was cooked. Ballottine of glazed glazed chicken (chaud-froid). BALLoTTTNE DE Ballottine of chicken (chaud-froid). BALLOTTINE DE pouI.Er cracfn (rN crnuo-FRorD) - Cook Cook the the ballottine ballottine as as POULET GLACE (EN CHAUD-FROID) described in preceding recipes, chill, and prepare as in the described in preceding recipes, chili, and prepare as in the recipe for Chaud-froid of chicken (see CHICKEI.{). recipe for Chaud-froid of chicken (see CHICKEN). Ballottines of various poultry. BALLorrrN.Es DE voLArLLEs Ballottines of various poultry. BALLOTTINES DE VOLAILLES DIvERSES - Proceed with ducks, turkeys, pigeons or guineaDIVERSES - Proceed with ducks, turkeys, pigeons or guineafowl as described in the the recipe for Ballottine chicken. fowl as described in recipe for Ballottine of of chicken. Forcemeat for stuffing ducks or guinea-fowl can be mixed Forcemeat for stuffing ducks or guinea-fowl can be mixed with one-third of its gras, and and chopped chopped with one-third of its volume volume of of foie foie gras, trufles. truffles. These ballottines are served hot or cold, with garnishes These ballottines are served hot or cold, with garnishes recommended for chicken. recommended for chicken. BALM. Name applied to various BALM. BAUME BAUME - Name applied to various aromatic aromatic plants plants of of the the niint mint type. type. ,to BAMBOCHER BAMBOCHER - Slang Slang term term in in French French meaning meaning 'to live live it it up'. The word comes from the nickname of a Dutch painter, up'. The word cornes from the nickname of a Dutch pain ter, Pierre Pierre van van Laer, Laer, called called 'Le 'Le Bamboche', Bamboche', who who specialised specialised in in depicting s (barnbo chades'). depicting rustic rustic scene scenes (bambochades). BAMBOO. BAMBOO. BAMBoUBAMBOU - Arborescent Arborescent reeds reeds (a (a genus genus of ofwoodywoodygrasses) stemmed stemmed grasses) grown grown in in tropical tropical countries. coun tries. Its Its young young shoots are edible, and are pickled in vinegar and sold canned, shoots are edible, and are pickled in vinegar and sold canned, as a luxury product. The shoots, which are spiky, are eaten as a luxury product. The shoots, which are spiky, are eaten raw in China, Indo-China, India, Japan etc. raw in China, Indo-China, India, Japan etc. pickle . The. The Japanese Japanese pickle tender tender bamboo bamboo shoots shootsin in sak6 sakvinegar vinegar (sak6 is a spirit distilled from rice). In the Sunda Isles, ba-m(sak is a spirit distilled from rice). In the Sunda Isles, bamboo stems are pickled in palm vinegar. boo stems are pickled in palm vinegar. Th9 nlth of various species of bamboo is very sweet, and The pith of various species of bamboo is very sweet, and a kind of spirit oozes from it. The fruit of the bamboo is the a kind of spirit oozes from il. The fruit of the bamboo is the size of a pear, and is formed of a great number of edible seeds size ofa pear, and is formed ofa great number of edible seeds resembling ripe ears of maizn or Indian corn. young bam_ resembling ripe ears of maize or Indian corn. Young bamboo shoots boo shootsare arecovered coveredwith withfine finebut butsharp sharphairs, hairs,which whichmust must be removed be removed before before cooking, cooking, otherwise otherwise perforation perforation of of the the intestines may result. intestines may result. BANANA. BANANE- -Fruit Fruitof ofthe thebanana bananatree, tree,which grows whichgrows BAN ANA. BANANE intropical regions.About tropicalregions. About 30 30species speciesofit areknown. of itare known. in Inthe theHindu Hindureligion religion there thereis isaalegend legendin inwhich whichthe thebanana banana ln wasthe fruitforbidden thefruit forbiddento toAdam Adamand andEve Evein inthe theterrestrial terrestrial was paradise,which, which,according according to tothe thelegend, legend, was wason onthe theisland island paradise, ofCeylon, Ceylon,where where the parents of theparents ofthe thehuman humanrace racecovered covered of their nakedness nakednesswith with banana banana leaves. leaves. This Thisexplains explainsthe names thenames their of Adam's Adam's fig-tree andParadise Paradise banana, banana, which whichthe theIndians Indians of fig-treeand given to havegiven totwo twospecies speciesof of banana bananatree. tree. have The dietetic qualities of the thebanana banana are are undisputed. undisputed.It proIt pro.The dietetic qualities of vides 100 100calories calories per per100 (250 calories g.(250 100 g. per100 g.in calories per 100g. ini ts itsddried vides ried form) and and aasufficient quantity of sufficient quantity ofail all the the mineraI mineral salts saltsnecesnecesform) saryfor for the the body's body's maintenance. maintenance. sary It is is rich rich in in starch, starch, which which is is transformed transformedinto into extremely extremely It energising sugar sugar when when the the fruit fruit is is fully fully ripe. ripe. It Italso alsocon contains energising tains aI wide variety variety ofvitamins: of vitamins: A, A, B, B,BI' Br, Bz, BroBrz, D and and E. E. B lz , D wide When ripe, ripe, the the banana banana is is full full of of nourishing nourishing constituents. constituents. When It con contains 74pr cent water waterand and22 per cent cent carbohydrates. carbohydrates. It tains 74 per cent 22 per These carbohydrates carbohydrates are are only only assimilable assimilable when when the fruit is is the fruit These fully ripe; ripe; in green bananas in green bananas it it remains remains a non-assimilable a non-assimilable fully starch. starch. Bananas destined destined for for export export are are harvested harvested when when they Bananas they are are green, at still green, at a a stage stage when when their their fiesh flesh is is white white and and without without still flavour. They They have have to to be be transported transported in in conditions conditions ofa fiavour. ofa steady steady 0 temperature of 12.5" to of ]2.5 (54.5. to l3'c. to l3 to 555F.) 55.5"F.) in in ships temperature e. (545 ships specially equipped equipped for for this purpose. They this purpose. They are are shipped shipped in specially in complete stems stems of of from from 15 15 to (33 to to 40 40 kg. kg. (33 to 88 88 lb.) lb.) wrapped wrapped complete in special paper or g special paper polythene bags, or polythene 'hands' of bags, or or in in 'hands' from 8 of from in to 12 12 bananas packed in bananas packed in cartons cartons or or crates. crates. to On arrivaI, arrival, the (which should the bananas bananas (which should be at the be at On the same same stage of of maturity maturity as as they they were were at port of at the the port embarkation) of embarkation) stage are ripened ripened either either in in converted converted cellars cellars heated heated to to a a temare temperature of from 165 of from 16.5' to (61.5' to 20"C. (61,5 to 20e. to 68F.) 68'F.) with perature with a a humidity value value of per cent of 90 90 per cent to 95 95 per cent, cent, or in in specially humidity specially equipped depts. dep6ts. The ripening ripening period is carried out according aciording equipped to requirements, requirements, and varies from 3 to 8 days. to When bananas are to be eaten raw, preference When bananas are preference should be given a uniform golden-yellow colour, to those those which which are a uniform golden-yellow given to or lightly lightly spotted. spotted. or There are some two There are sorne two hundred hundred species of bananas bananas in in cultivation tivation throughout throughout the world. Of these, three varieties are commonly sinensis and and poyo, commonly found found on the French French market: market: sinensis similar similar to to each each other, both both slightly curved, with fragrant, tasty and gros-Michel,larger. tasty flesh, fiesh, and gros-Michel, larger, straighter, straighter, less less fragile fragile (and (and therefore therefore more resistant to handling) handling) but but less fragrant. fragrant.

BAMBOO BAMBOO MUSHROOM. MUSHROOM. cnauprcNoN CHAMPIGNON DE DE ralrsou BAMBOU -- A A mushroom mushroommuch muchvalued valuedin inChinese Chinesecuisine.It cuisine. Itis isavailable avaiJablein in
Europe only in its dried form. Europe only in its dried form.
Ripening for Ripeningplace place forbananas bananas(Pomona') (Pomona)

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BANANA BANANA
Sinensis and andpoyo poyo come come from from Martinique, Martinique, Guadeloupe, Guadeloupe, the the Sinensis Ivory Ivory Coast Coast and and the the Canaries. Canaries. The The gros-Michel gros-Michel is is grown grown in in Central America, America, South South America America and and Cameroun. Cameroun. The The latter latter Central is gradually gradually being being replacedby replaced by poyo. poyo. is In In France, France, the the gros-Michel gros-Michel of of Cameroun Cameroun is is marketed marketed principally principally in in the the east east of of the the country, country, the thepoyo poyo of of the the Ivory Ivory Coast and and Canary Canary bananas bananas in in the the south, south, Antilles Antilles bananas bananas Coast in the the Paris Paris region region and and the the west. west. in
Cut Cut the the banana banana halves halves into into slices, slices, and and steep steep them them in in sugar sugar and and rum rum for for 30 30 minutes. minutes. Partly Partly fill fill the the banana banana skins skins with with (q.v.) Dessert Dessert rice rice (see (see RICE) RICE) mixed mlxed with with a a salpicon salpicon (q.v.) of of cryscrystallised and flavoured flavoured with with rum. rum. Arrange Arrange the the banana banana tallised fruit, fruit, and slices slices on on top, top, put put the the fruit fruit on on a a baking baking tray, tray, sprinkle sprinkle with with in and brown ground macaroons' melted melted butter butter and and finely finely ground macaroons, and brown in a a hot hot oven. oyen. (se SAUCE). Serve Serve with with rum-flavoured rum-flavoured Apricot Apricot sauce sauce (see SAUCE). AUx BANANES A Banana Banana crottes croOtes i la la Bauvilliers. BauviUiers. cRoOrEs CROTES AUX BANANES LA LA BALTVILLIERS BAUVILLIERS - Cut Cut a a stale stale brioche brioche into into a a dozen dozen rectanrectangular cm. (2|inches) (2+ inches) long long and and a a little little wider wider than than a a gular slices slices 6 6 cm. with sprinkle tray, a baking on Put the slices banatra. banana. Put the slices on a baking tray, sprinkle with fine fine sugar, sugar, ara.d and $aze glaze in in the the oven. oyen. Peel Peel 6 6 bananas bananas and and halve halve lengthways. lengthways. Fut Put them them on on a a buttered buttered baking baking tray, tray, sprinkle sprinkle with with fine fine sugar sugar and and cook cook in in alternating the the oven OYen for for 5 5 minutes. minutes. Arrange Arrange the the bananas, bananas, alternating with with slices slices of of brioche, brioche, in in a a circle circle in in a a fireproof fireproof dish' dish. Fill FiJI the the and vanilla, centre cooked with with milk, milk, sugar sugar and vaniJla, centre with with semolina semolina cooked sernoEnglish (see SEMOLINA. SEMOLINA. English semoand bound with with egg egg yolks yolks (see and bound (q.v.) of fruit of preserved a salpicon lina Lina pudding). pudding). Mix Mix with with a salpicon (q.v.) preserved fruit macaroons crushed macaroons finely crushed with finely dish with the whole Sprinkle the Sprinkle whole dish serving, Before serving, oven. Before in the the OYen. and brown butter, and andmelted and melted butter, brown in (see SAUCE) with flavoured with SAUCE) flavoured sauce (see Apricot sauce with Apricot surround with surround maraschino. maraschino. I-l A LA saNA,NEs lux BANANES cno0rus AUX maltaise. CROTES il la la maltaise. Banana crofites cro0tes Banana Banana for Banana reclpe for in the the recipe described in as described Prepare as MALTAIsE MALTAISE - Prepare French thick French by thick semolina by replacing semolina Bauvilliers, replacing d la la Bauvilliers, crofites crotes grated orange orange with grated (see CREA flavoured with pastry CREAMS), cream (see pastry cream MS), flavoured peel. peel. peel orange peel candied orange with candied of bananas bananas with circle of the circle Decorate the Decorate almonds. halved almonds. and halved and and Peel bananas bananas and rhMsfns -- Peel BANANEs FLAMBES flambe. BANANES Bananas flamb. Bananas put into into and put Drain, and syrup. Drain, in vanilla-flavoured vanilla-flavoured syrup. them in cook them cook liqueur, with liqueur, Sprinkle with dish. Sprinkle ovenproof dish. a timbale timbale or or a a shallow shallow ovenproof a when serving. serving. alight when and set set alight and A LA LA BANANEs DE BANANES FLAN DE la crme. crdme. FLAN i la tart or tart flan or Banana flan Banana Put them them lengthways. Put them lengthways. and halve halve them Peel bananas bananas and cniuB -- Peel CRME in the the cook in and cook fine sugar, sugar, and with fine dish, sprinkle sprinkle with in a a buttered buttered dish, in pastry, and fill and fill made of of short short pastry, flan made in a a flan Arrange them them in oven. Arrange oyen. with Sprinkle with (see CREAMS). CREAMS). Sprinkle pastry cream cream (see with French French pastry with oven. in the the oyen. brown in and brown crushed macaroons, macaroons, and crushed Peel FRITES- - Peel (garnish for BANANES FRITES for meat). meat). BANANES bananas (garnish Fried bananas Fried minutes for 30 30 minutes Marinate for lengthways. Marinate bananas lengthways. and halve the bananas halve the and light inaalight halves in juice, salt pepper. Dip Dip the the halves and pepper. salt and in oil, oil, lemon lemon juice, in required. when and fry, fry, wh batter and batter en required. Banana asBanana are the the same same as course, these these are orsweet sweet course, As aadessert dessert or As (see below). below). fritters fritters (see
steeped steeped in in maraschino. maraschino.

Curved banana banaoa from from the the Curved Canaries Canariesand and straight straight banana banana from America America from

are sometimes dried in their country of origin Bananas are Their calorific and exported in this form. fonn. Their calorific value then rises to The banana meat. The about 285 285 calories calories per 100 100 g. - twice twice that of ofmeat. banana about reduced to 'flour'. 'flour'. It takes this forrn form in a number can also be reduced cocoa.. preparations, usually flavoured with cocoa of industrial preparations, as 200, as many bananas may consist of as many as 200, and A stem stem of bananas lb.).. weighs from 35 88 lb.) 35 to 40 kg. (77 to 88 weighs FouR bananas in AU FOUR BANANDs AU Baked bananas. BANANES - Bake the bananas and melted butter and wlthout peeling them. them. Serve with melted oven without the oyen desired.. fine sugar. Serve with a fruit jelly, if desired a red fruit 6 I\rt 6 BEAUHARNAIS - Put Ba nanas Beauharnais. BANANDs BEAUHARNAJS Beauharnais. BANANES Bananas with Dust with dish. Dust fireproof dish. peeled a buttered peeled bananas buttered fireproof into a bananas into (5 tablespoons) tablespoons) fine with 4 4 tablespoons tablespoons (5 fine sugar, sugar, sprinkle sprinkle with for 5 5 oven for white in the the oyen Cook in the stove. stove. Cook heat on on the white rum, and heat rum, and with crushed crushed minutes. Pour thick cream over sprinkle with over them, them, sprinkJe glaze in in a a hot hot and glaze macaroons melted butter, butter, and a httle little melted macaroons and and a oyen . Serve dish. same dish. in the the same oven. Serve in and Peel and Bananas BoURDALoUE - Peel BANANtrs BOURDALOUE Bananas Bourdaloue. Bourdaloue. BANANES in the the as described described in proceed as poach and proceed poach the bananas in in syrup, syrup, and (see APRICOTS) . recipe APRICOTS). bourdaloue (see for Apricots recipe for Apricots bourdaloue Peel bananas, bananas, Ba nanas in AU BEURRE BEURRE - Peel BANANEs AU butter. BANt\NES Bananas in butter. with put and sprinkle sprinkle with dish, and fireproof dish, put them in a a buttered them in buttered fireproof (180'C., 350F., Mark 350oF., Gas Gas Mark sugar. oven (180C., in the the oyen sugar. Cook Cook slowly slowly in 4) minutes. 20 to to 30 30 minutes. 4) for for 20 Banana COMPOTE. See COMPOTE. compote -- See Banana compote poach the the Bananas Peel and and poach coxo6 - Peel BANANEs COND Cond6. BANANES Bananas Cond. recipefor for Apricots Apricots bananas in the the recipe proceed as described in as described and proceed bananas and Cond (see APRICOT). APRICOT). Condi (see

Bananas ilacr6ole la crole Bananas

Bananas u CROLE cnforp- cnarlNfns ALA BANANEsGRATINES lacrole. cr6ole.BANANES Bananas I la Choose Remove lengthwise. Remove andcut cutthem them lengthwise. firm bananas bananas and Choose finn the water. inboiling boilingwater. minutesin for22minutes theskins skinsfor andsoak fruitand soakthe thefruit Drain, cool. tocool. incold coldwater waterto anddip dipthem themin Drain,and
75 75

Fried bananas with cream

BANDOL

(669426 Ashurbanipal (669-626 Ashurbanipal

n.c.) feasting with B.C.) feasting with his his

qtet(British queen (British Museum) Mweum'l

Banana fritters. fritters. BEIGNETS BETcNETs DE BANANEs -- Halve DE BANANES Halve the the bananas bananas Banaoa lengthways and and steep steep them them for for an an hour hour in in rum rum or or kirsch kirsch and and lengthways sugar. When When required, required, dip dip them them in in batter and deep-fry batter and deep-fry in in sugar. sizding fat. fat. Drain, Drain, dry, dry, and and sprinkle sprinkle with with fine fine sugar sugar before before sizzling serving. serving. Batter. Make Make a a smooth paste with smooth thick thick paste with 3 3 tablespoons tablespoons Batter. (scant t cup) flour flour and and warm wann water. water. Add Add a a tablespoon tablespoon olive olive * cup) (scant oil, and and leave leave to to stand stand for for 2 2 to to 3 3 hours, hours, stirring stirring from from time time to to oil, time. time. Just before before using, using, fold fold 2 2 stiffly stiffy whisked whisked egg egg whites whites into into the the Just batter. batter. Banana mousse mous$e glac glac6 ICE CREAMS See lCR CREAMS AND AND ICES, ICES, Banana - See Fruit mousse. Fruit mousse. Banana souffl. sorff6. SOUFFL sourrrf AUX AUx BANANES BANANESa tablespoon Banana - Blend a flour and a a small small pinch of salt into a a smooth paste with wittr,l dl. flour and pinch of 1 dl. (6 scant 1milk which has been been boiled with with (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant * cup) milk 35 3 tablespoons) and allowed sugar and allowed to 35 g. g. Q (2 tablespoons, tablespoons, 3 tablespoons) sugar cool. (or 1a vanilla teaspoon vanilla vanilla essence) cool. Add Add half halfa vanilla bean (or ] teaspoon and the boil, stirring ail all and stir stir well. weIl. Bring Bring slowly to just just under the the be that the time; time; remove remove from from the heat. The texture should be of of thick thick cream. cream. Rub with Rub the the pulp pulp of of 4 bananas bananas through through a fine sieve, mix with 2 and add add this 2 egg egg yolks yolks and and a heaped heaped tablespoon butter, and mixture stiffly whisked mixture to the the cream cream in the saucepan. Add the stifly egg egg whites. whites. Butter and pour Butter a a soufr6 souffl dish, sprinkle with fine fine sugar, sugar, and in in the the mixture. mixture. Bake Bake in in a a slow oven oyen (160"C., (160C., 325"F., 325F., Gas Mark Mark 3) 3) for for 12 12 to to 15 15 minutes. minutes.

BANIX)L BANDOL - Charming Charming fishing port port in the &ipartement dpartement of
Var Var which which has has given given its its name name to to excellent white, red red and ros6 ros wines wines produced produced in in the the locality. locality. (See pROVENCE.) PROVENCE.) BANGI BANGI - Small Small tree tree which which grows grows in in the the philippines. Philippines. It is lactescent lactescent and and produces produces a a pleasant, pleasant, green green coloured coloured fruit, the size size ofan of an orange. orange. BANILLES BANILLES - Long, Long, tapering tapering small small pods pods which which have have some sorne similarity similarity to to the the vanilla vanilla bean. bean. They They contain contain a a fragrant, fragrant, sugary sugary juice juice which which is is often often used used instead instead of of vanilla vanilla in in the the
manufacture manufacture of ofchocolate. chocolate.

BANQUET BANQUET - The The word word possibly possibly comes cornes from from banc banc (bench). (bench). It It may may have have been been on on benches benches that that the the first first Christians Christians sat sat as as they agapes in in the the catacombs. catacombs. they celebrated celebrated their their agapes Whatever Whatever the the origin origin of of the the word, word, banquet banquet signifies signifies a a sumptuous sumptuous meal meal given given to to a a large large number number of of guests guests on on festal festal or or ceremonial ceremonial occasions. occasions. Or Or it it is is given given to to bring bring together together
76 76

people of of the thesame sameliterary literary or people tes, or orartistic artistic tas tastes, orreligious religious or or political ideas, ideas, or or of of the the same political same social profession, or social status, status, profession, or ethnic origin, origin, and and so soon. on. ethnic The mystic mystic character character of The of aa banquet banquet is is to to be foundin prebefound inprehistory. In In the the origins history. origins of of ail allhuman human activity activity there there was wasmagic, magic, the need need of man to the of man to make make the the mysterious mysterious forces forces of of nature nature favourable to to him. favourable him. On On the the walls walls of ofthe the Trois Trois Frres Frires caves cavesin in Aribge, there primitive painting there is is aa primitive painting of Arige, of aa sorcerer sorcerer in in cereceremonial robes, robes, performing performing aa sacred monial sacred dance dance in in the the middle middle of of an immense immense herd an herd of of cattle; cattlb; apparently apparently sorne some kind kind of of incantaincantation to to make make the tion the tribe's tribe's hunting hunting successful. successful. When a When a slaughtered slaughtered animal animal layon ground, it lay on the the ground, it was was divided into into two divided parts, the two parts, the first first for for the the benevolent deities, benevolent deities, the the other other for for the the tribe, tribe, clan clan or or family. family. In got In this this way way men men got used used to to meeting meeting together, together, to to divide divide amongst amongst themselves themselves the the parts of chosen chosen parts of the the animal. animal. They They continued continued to to do do this this on on the the occasion occasion of great events of the the two two great events of of their their lives, lives, birth and birth and death. death. These These were were the the first first banquets. banquets. When large therings at gatherings large ga at table possible, the table became became possible, the era era of of banquets banquets began. The The most magnificent were were those those that that took took place in the fertile fields fields of of the the orient, orient, especially especially rich rich in in spices spices and and fiavourings. flavourings. The The banquets banqueb of tbe the Egyptians Egrptians The Egyptians Egyptians were were very very - The careful in their cooking, cooking, because because they they believed believed that that illnesses illnesses were caused by the wrong choice choice and and cooking cooking offood. of food. ConContrary trary to the customs customs of most Eastern Eastern countries, countries, the the women women took charge took charge of of the the organisation organisation of of banquets banquets in in Egypt, Egypt, directing directing the the service and and presiding at guests were at table. table. The The guests wire ushered into ushered into an an ante-room ante-room on on their their arrivaI, arrival, where where they they washed their their hands washed hands and and feet. feet. They They then then disported disported themthemselves in various games before the feast. feast. banqueting hall, At the entrance to the banqueting hall, servants servants crowned crowned them with wreaths of flowers. The The first first drinks drinks were were served, served. the meal meal began. prayers were said, and the prayers guests sat began. The The guests sat on on the the and the the various dishes dishes were placed near floor, and were placed near them, them, in in Young musicians provided music on the harp, lyre baskets. baskets. provided music on the harp, lyre and tambourine; sometimes there there were were performances by and by acrobats and mimes. mimes. acrobats Herodotus, Athanaeus Athanaeus and and Plutarch Plutarch have have recorded recorded that Herodotus, that in order order to to stimulate stimulate the the guests to to enjoy enjoy earthly earthly pleasures pleasures to to the full, full, a a coffin coffin was was sometimes sometimes brought brought in at the the end end of of the the the in at skeleton in in it, it, so so that that they they should should meal, with with an imitation skeleton meal, of life, Iife, especially especially appreciate more more highly the the good good things things of appreciate those of of the the table. table. those of the the Assyrians Assyrians and and the the Chaldeam Chaldeans - Strabo The banquets banquets of The - Stra bo that the the epitaph epitaph inscribed inscribed on on the the tomb tomb of of SardanaSardanatells us us that tells

BANQUET BANQUET

Fresco Fresco showing showing a a meal meal in in

Greek Greek times limes

son of Anacyndara, palus reads: reads: 'sardanapalus, 'Sardanapalus, the the son Anacyndara, had palus day. Passer-by, a day. Tarsus built in a the towns of Anchiale and Tarsus matters!' and be merry, for nothing else matters!' eat, drink and armies their armies of their victories of The Assyrians Assyrians celebrated the the victories The with banquets. In an Assyrian bas-relief, we can see the king reclining on a sumptuous couch, the queen sitting at his feet, reclining on stringed instruslaves playing on the table table richly richly decked, decked, slaves the they were feet; they no feet; have no ments. The table have on the the table vessels on The vessels ments. designed to be in one copious draught. be quaffed in gives a a description description Maspro, his Lectures Historiques, Historiqtres, gives rnhis Masp6ro, in Ashur-bani-pal, the by Ashur-bani-pal, of ordered by of these these banquets banquets ordered of one one of its power: of its king under whom the height of whom Nineveh reached the for comers for all corners open to ail 'The doors of the remained open the palace remained the walls, walls, hung on on the seven draperies hung Multicoloured draperies days. Multi-coloured seven days. transforming yards into into immense immense banqueting courtyards the court transforming the night, till night, morning till halls. from morning into them them from crowded into People crowded halls. People liked. they liked. whatever they stretching and ordering whatever on couches couches and out on stretching out to this this admitted to were admitted Women and as men, men, were as well well as and children, children, as prevented them them largesse. duties prevented whose duties were soldiers, soldiers, whose Nor were largesse. Nor drink and drink food and leaving king sent sent food the king forgotten; the the barracks, leaving the barracks, forgotten; to come.' not come.' could not who could to those those who gardens capable of capable of In and gardens were orchards orchards and Babylon, there there were In Babylon, The sumpsumpsupplying a long long siege. siege. The food during during a with food town with the town supplying the of the the those of tuousness equalled those there equalled the banquets banquets there of the tuousness of Assyrians. Assyrians. nomads were nomads The Hebrews were The Hebrews Hebrews -- The of the the Hebrews banquets of The banquets the for to occupy occupy the Chaldea to out of of Chaldea come out period, having having come for a a long long period, the land of the peace on banks of on the the banks and peace Prosperity and land of of Canaan. Canaan. Prosperity Jordan of the the table. table. pleasures of partake of the pleasures of the to partake them to enabled them Jordan enabled luxury and and when luxury At pleasures, but but when simple pleasures, were simple At first first they they were very refinement became very their banquets banquets became introduced their were introduced refinement were table, but but elaborate. down to to table, satdown kings they they sat of the the kings time of At the the time elaborate. At They later to eat. eat. They couches to on couches reclining on of reclining habit of adopted the the habit later adopted guests arrived arrived perfumed when guests and when with essences, essences, and perfumed their wine with their wine poured over over for was poured perfume was water and and perfume holy water for aa banquet, banquet, holy places them, their places andtook took their flowers, and with flowers, crowned with they were were crowned them, they according rank. to their their rank. according to pipe.' Music andpipe.' 'with the tabret and harp, the the tabret the harp, was made made 'with Music was Women were they were feasts, but but they tothe thefeasts, admitted to firstadmitted not at atfirst Women were werenot accepted the entertained,the handsomely entertained, were handsomely andwere in time, time, and accepted in Sabeans wrists theirwrists putting bracelets on their bracelets on desert putting from the the desert Sabeans from and heads. their heads. crowns on ontheir and crowns 'One The says:'One Athenaeussays: Persians -- Athenaeus of the thePersians banquetsof The banquets thousand king's table; table; theking's forthe dailyfor areslaughtered slaughtered daily animalsare thousand animais horses, thesmaller smaller of the mostof andmost deerand asses, deer oxen,asses, camels,oxen, horses,camels, animaIs. Arabian asArabian suchas arealso alsoconsumed, consumed, such Manybirds birdsare animals.Many
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geese and cocks.' and cocks.' ostriches, geese ostriches, given by by a banquet banquet given describes a Esther describes of Esther Book of The Book The prowas profavour was fall from from favour Vashti's fail when Queen Vashti's Ahasuerus, when orders. king's orders. at the the king's appear, at to appear, refused to had refused she had claimed after she gardens, pblace gardens, in the the palace served in banquet, served magnificent banquet, This magnificent This gold, and and and gold, of silver silver and were of The couches couches were days. The lasted seven seven days. lasted gold cups. cups. poured into into gold was poured of wine was abundance ofwine an abundance organised were organised Feasts were City Feasts the Greeks Greeks of the The banquets of The - City In occasions. In religious occasions. or religious on social social or Greeks on the ancient ancient Greeks by the by citizens occasions, citizens for special special occasions, these banquets banquets for addition to to these addition within day, within every day, together every meal together a sacred eat a sacred meal to eat were required to were and the the fire and presence of sacred fire of the the sacred prytaneum, in in the the presence the prytaneum, the was custom was if tbis this custom that if Greeks believed believed that gods. The The Greeks protecting gods. protecting of their their favour of lose the the favour would lose they would day, they a single missed by single day, by a missed gods. gods. and meal, and attend the the meal, lot to to attend by lot men were were selected selected by In Athens, Athens, men In perform this duty. this duty. to perform refused to punished if if they they refused were severely severely punished were and robes and white robes wore white table wore at the the sacred sacred table Those who who sat sat at Those parasites, then sacred then aa sacred were called called parasites, They were flowers. They crowns of of flowers. crowns The contempt. The of contempt. a term term of to become become a destined to later title. but but la ter destined title, but of Demosthenes, Demosthenes, but time of the time by the parasites had disappeared by had disappeared parasites in the the together in eat together required to to eat prytanes were still required were still the prytanes the prytaneum. prytaneum. guests The guests Greek banquet. banquet.The to aaGreek invited to never invited Women were were never Women hall, the banqueting banqueting hall, entering the off before before entering their shoes shoes off took their took gods the gods invoked the and invoked washed, and for aa time, time, washed, couches for rested on on couches rested feast. Young Young the feast. down to tothe sitting down before sitting and country country before of home home and of dancing were dancing and there there were lute, and andJute, played upon harp and girls played the harp upon the girls girls. girls.

banquet at Greek musicat andmusic Dancing Dancing and aa Greek banquet

BANQUET BANQUET
The banquets of the Romans - The splendours of Imperial _Tbe banquets of tbe Romans - The splendours of Imperial Rome were reflected in their banquets. The Romans often Rome were reflected in their banquets. The Romans often

sacrificed the dishes themselves to presentation and ostentasacrrnced the dishes themselves to presentation and ostentation. At one meal Heliogabalus served to his guests 600 tion. At one meal Heliogabalus served to his 600 ostrich brains, peas with grains of gold, lentils with precious ostrich brains, peas with grains of gold, lentils stones, and other dishes with pearls and amber. stones, and other dishes with pearls and amber. The room where the Romans took their meals was called The room where the Romans took their meals was called the triclinium; it was the custom to put only three couches the tricliniwn; it was the custom to put round a table. Each guest brought his own napkin. On arrival, round a table. Each brought his own the guests changed into white robes and sandals, and took the white robes and and took their places at table according to their status. After invoking at according to their status. After invoking the Penates, Lares and Jupiter, they began the feast, eating Lares and Jupiter, they began the feast, eating with their fingers. fingers. with their

A Roman banquet A Roman banquet

The first first course course was was the the hors-d'uvre, hors-d'euvre, served served with with a a Iight light The wine. The The second second was was the coena, which the coena, which was was the the main main course, couise, wine. after which which sacrifices sacrifices were were made made to to the the Lares Lares amid amid silence. silence. after The third third course course was was the the dessert, dessert, fresh fresh or or dried fruit or dried fruit or fruit fruit The pastries, but baked in in pastries, but there there was was sometimes sometimes a a more more solid solid baked course instead instead of of dessert. dessert. In In a a menu menu found found in in the the ruins ruins of of course Pompeii, this this course course included included sows' sows' udders, udders, wild wild boar's boar,s Pompeii, head, fricassie of wild wild duck, duck, and and a a cream cream made made of of fiour flour and and head, fricasse of Vicence cakes. Vicence cakes. Musicians, poets poets and and dancers dancers appeared at at important important _ Musicians, banquets, sometimes there there were were gladiator fighti, acrobanquets, and and sometimes OI~It11~rr\r fights, bats bats and and clowns. clowns. There accounts of grandiose luxury of the the grandiose luxury of of the There are are many many accounts barbaric gives us Romans. petronius Petronius gives barbaric feasts feasts given given by by the the Romans. some from a of what what they they were were like like in in this this extract extract from sorne idea idea of description Trimalchio's feast: feast: of one one of of these, these, Trimalchio's description of 'On 'On a a tray tray of of relishes relishes stood stood a a small small bronze bronze ass, ass, carrying carrying twin containing green green and and the the other other biack black twin baskets, baskets, one one containing olives. Salvers, moulded like olives. Salvers, moulded Iike bridges, bridges, contained contained dormice, seasoned seasoned with with honey honey and and poppy seeds. seeds. There There were sizzling sausages on a a silver silver gridiron, with Syrian Syrian plums plums and pomesausages on granate ..A granate seeds seeds placed placed beneath it. it ... A basketwas basket was placed placed before us_containing a hen, hen, wings wings spread spread out ou t as as if if she she were were hatching. ha tching. us con taining a We We broke broke the the egg, egg, which which was was made made of of light light pastry pastry looking looking exactly . . and and found found in in it it a a plump plump beccafico beccafico exactly like like the the shell shell .... (garden (garden warbler), warbler), deliciously deliciously spiced, hidden hidden insidl inside the the y-olk. yolk. Crystal Crystal flagons, carefully carefully sealed, were brought in. in. Around Around the neck of each the neck each bottle bottle hung hung a a label: Falernian opimian op imian wine ;vine 100 100 years years old.' old.' The The long long account account goes goes on on to to list list the the fantastic fantastic manner manner in in which ;a of the the which dishes dishes were were served served; a tray tray with with the the twelve twelve signs signs of zodiac reproduced chef had had zodiac reproduced on on it it in in a a circle, circle, on on which which the the chef placed dishes dishes analogous to to the the particular constellation constellation - a a piece of of beef beef over over Taurus (the (the Bull), kidneys kidneys and and testicles testicles over Cancer (the (the Crab), Crab), the the uterus uterus of a a sow sow over over Virgo Virgo (the (the over Cancer Virgin), hare over over Sagittarius Sagittarius (the (the Archer), Archer), two two mullets mullets Virgin), a a hare (the over over Pisces Pisces (the Fish), Fish), and and so so on. on. An An enonnous enormous wild wild boar boar was was served served on on a a platter, platter, with with little little pastry pastry sucking pigs pressing ..A pressingon on the the teats teats .... A slave slave gave the the boar boar a a stab irrthe belly and out out flew flew a a cloud cloud of of thrushes, trying trying to to escape. escape. belly and Bird Bird catchers catchers caught caught them them with with fowlers' fowlers' rods. rods, and and offered offered them themto tothe theguests. guests.
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Thebanquets banquebof (100 ofthe theGauls Gauls B.C.) The food ofthe the The (100 B.C.) - -The food of earlyGauls Gaulsconsisted consistedmainly mainlyof offresh fresh orsalted pork,the saltedpork, the or early animalsthey theyraised raisedin inthe theforests, forests,and andmilk. milk.Their Theirmeals meals animais togetherwere werelong, long,served servedby by young people. brazierwi with AAbrazier th spitsand andcauldrons cauldronswas was placed near the tables,and andfood foodwas was cookedin inthem. them. cooked guestssat Theguests saton onbundles bundles of ofstraw strawround roundlow lowtables. The tables. quantitiesof Greatquantities ofmeat, meat,boiled, boiled,roasted roastedon onthe thespit spitor Great or grilled,with withaalittle littlebread, bread,constituted constituted the themeal. meal. grilled, Posidonious, the theGreek Greekstoic philosopher, has stoicphilosopher, hasleft Posidonious, lefta a description of ofthe themeal: meal: description 'Thefood food isisserved served in inaac1ean cleanway: way:on onsil silver 'The ver or orcopper copper dishesin inrich richhouses, houses,on onearthenware earthenwareor orwood wooden dishes en ones onesin inthe the homes of ofthe jointand the poor.Each Eachman mantakes takesaawho whole andbites; homes le joint bites; should the the piecebe too toughor betoo ortoo toobig, hecuts cutsititwith big,he should withaa small knife, knife,the thescabbard scabbard ofwhich which is isattached attachedto tohis hissword. small sword. Asingle singledrinking drinking vessel vesselof ofearthenware earthenwareor ormetal metalis A ishanded handed round by byslaves slaves and and makes makesmany manyrounds, rounds,but round butone onedrinks drinks little at at aa time.' time.' little The Gauls Gaulsdrank drank various variouswines wines from from the thehorns hornsof The of wild wild oxen, ornamented ornamented with goldor with gold orsilver silver rings;and andsometimes oxen, sometimes from the the skulls skulls of of their their enemies enemies killed killed in in battle,or from orof oftheir their own dead parents, whose dead parents, whosememory memory they own they thus thus wished wished to to honour, out out of piety. of filial filial piety. honour, The wines wines of of Bezier Bezier and and Vien Vienna, andItalian The na, and Italian and andGreek Greek wines, were were seen seen on on the the tables tables of of the wines, the rich. rich. They They were were taken taken in in quantities, and small quantities, and diluted diluted with small with water. water. The poor drank The poor drank and hydromel beer, and hydromel -- herb herb and and spice-fiavoured beer, spice-flavoured honey, honey, diluted with with water. water. diluted Fish was was eaten eaten in in areas areas near near the Fish sea, and and mainly grilled, the sea, seasoned with with salt salt and and cumin cumin and and sprinkled seasoned sprinkled with with vinegar. On special special occasions, occasions, the guests sat the guests On at a sat at a round round table, aa prominent place place being given to being given prominent to the the most most distinguished distinguished or or the most most valiant. valiant. There There was was a the a custom custom that that the the legs legs of of the the animals served served should should be allotted to animais be allotted the bravest. to the bravest. This This was was a a quarrelso and source of of quarrels, and often often a a fight source fight to to the the death. death. The banquets of of the the Gallo-Romans Tbe Gallo-Romans -- The The wealthy wealthy GalloGalloRomans adopted Latin Latin customs, customs, and and their their banquets were were modelled on the Roman, though they they discarded discarded the custom custom of reclining reclining on on couches. of la Bdolire, B6dolibre, in in his his Moeurs De la Moeurs et et vie privie des des Franais, Frangais, describes the the banquets banquets of describes of the the Gallo-Romans; here here are are extracts: 'Some Gauls, disdaining disdaining the 'Sorne Gauls, the indolence of of the the Romans, Romans, use use benches, stools and and other wooden seats seats covered covered with a a carpet instead ofcouches. instead of couches ... . . The guests put on special robes and sandals and take their places around the table . .. . . Slaves Slaves bring in a great quantity of meat, roast or or boiled, which which is is carved with great skill skiU and dexterity by by servants. The meal meal starts starts with a tasting of of mulsurn mulswn ot or medwn, mulled wine wine mixed medum,mulled with sai ver is placed placed in the centre centre of with honey honey .... . . A salver of the table table and various various dishes dishes are put on it one after the other: fresh eggs, quarters of of beef, beef, mutton, pork, goat, goat, all seasoned seasoned with yolks of egg, egg, black black pepper, pepper, brine, brine, cumin, cumin, salt . ... . As As a a dessert, dessert, the the guests guests are are served with hot or cold cold tarts. tarts, honey honey cakes, cakes, soft cheese, cheese, grilled escargots, medlars, chestchestnuts, figs, Gaul peaches and and grapes. grapes. At the end of of the meal meal nuts, figs, hot hot mulswn mu/sUIn is is brought in once again, and and slaves distribute toothpicks made made of feathers, wood and and silver.' silver.' toothpicks The banquets banquets of of the tbe Franks Franks - Caius Caius Sollius Apollinaris Apollinaris The that one one could could find find in in the the banquets of of the the Sidonius states states that Sidonius Franks Franks 'the 'the elegance elegance of of Greece, Greece, the the abundance abundance of Gaul, Gaul, the the of ltaly, Italy, the the pomp pomp of of public public ceremonial ceremonial allied allied to to dispatch of lasUOlOllsness of of a a private private table, table, of of the the order order befitting befitting a a the fastidiousness palace.' king's palace.' of the the period period mention mention silver silver tables, tables, gold gold and and Writers of silver utensils, utensils, tablecloths tablecloths fashioned fashioned from from fresh fresh roses. roses. The The silver Franks were were very very hospitable, hospitable, and and had had a a strict strict code code of of table table Franks

BANQUET BANQUET
manners. Wine Wine was was passed passed round round the the table table and and the the guests guests manners. drank from from the the same same cup. cup. Lamps Lamps were were considered considered to to drank desecrate the the table table at at a a banquet; banquet ;the the room room was was lit lit by by torches torches desecrate held aloft aloft by by slaves. slaves. held French French banquets banquets from from the the Middle Middle Ages Ages to to the the fifteenth fifteenth century - The The beginning beginning of ofa a banquet banquet was was announced announced by by the the century sound sound of of a a horn, horn, a a privilege privitege reserved reserved for for the the highest highest personages kingdom. Guests Guests washed washed their their hands hands with with personages in in the the kingdom. perfumed perfumed water water before before sitting sitting down, down, and and after after each each course; course; forks forks had had not not been been invented; invented; food food was was eaten eaten with with fingers. fingers.
Faience Faence and and Nevers Nevers porcelain, porcelain, Venetian Venetian glass. glass. Forks Forks and and long-handled long-handled spoons spoons had had come come into into use, use, and and cooking cooking lad had become become more more refined. refined. Belon, Belon, inhis in his TraitC Trait des des Oyseaux Oyseaux writes writes of of 'a 'a thousand thousand little little disguises disguises of of flesh, ftesh, made made into into soups' soups, jricasses, hashes, hashes, salads.' salads.' After After roast roast and and boiled boiled joints joints and and Jricassies, game, game, there there were were cold cold desserts'such desserts 'such as as fruits, fruits, milk milk products, products, sweetmeats, sweetmeats, cakes, cakes, cheese, cheese, chestnuts, chestnuts, Capendy Capendy apples, apples, a a salad salad of of lemons lemons or or pomegranates.' pomegranates.' French French banquets banquets ofthe of the seventeenth seventeenth century century - In In the the reign reign of of Louis Louis XIII, XIII, there there was was less less display display at at banquets banquets and and more more emphasis emphasis on on harmony harmony and and simplicity. simplicity. Under Under Louis Louis XIV, XIV, however, however, there there were were usually usually four four substantial substantial dishes dishes - roast roast

Meal served served to Grandgousier, Grandgousier, Gars:?ti:;.i*-, Gargaotua 's father, from from an old old edition edition of of the Meal works of Rabelais

of presented. The dessert, of plumage, ca Ives and calves and pigs ornately presented. fruit preserves, dried fruit followed by was followed by dried fruit and creams, fruit and creams, was (spiced wine) wine).. pastry pastry and and hippocras hippouas (spiced great banFrench banquets sixteentb century the sixteenth banqueb of the - The great a love love of of opulence; quets given during show a quets given century show this century during this dinner plate, gold and and silver silver dinner richly and engraved engraved gold richly wrought and

side table, on a Goblets and tankards were placed on a side table, and and tankards Goblets This manner fiUed by pages pages who brought them them to the guests. Th.is filled end of the meals survived until the end of serving wine during meals In royal courts, the dishes were tasted eighteenth century. century. In a talisman, to assure with a by a by a special servant, or touched with not poisoned. The was not the royal personages that that the the food food was the menus were exotic, and included roast peacocks with gilded in their pheasants dressed dressed in and pheasants bills and claws, claws, swans swans and bills and

XIV Louis XIV of Louis the reign reign of during the A Royal Royal banquet banquet during A

Kings ble at ta table Kings at (woodcut,, Lyon, (woodcut 1508) Lyon, 1508)

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Seventeenth quet fare Seventeenth century cenlUry French French ban banquet rare (Giraudon) (Giraudon)

poultry and meat, as well soup. These meat,poultry and game gameas weil as as tureens tureens of ofsoup. These were were followed followed by by melons, melons, various various salads salads in in bowls bowls 'or 'or in in little !ittle plates plates

to to make make serving serving them them easier,' easier,' comments comments Nicolas Nicolas de .de BonBonnefons nefons (Ddlices (Dlices de de la la campagne), campagne), and and goes goes on on to to describe describe what what he he considers considers to to be be an an ideal ideal banquet banquet for for a a company company of of thirty thirty people. people. Among Among other other dishes dishes there there should should be be a a potage potage de de Ia la

Reine, Reine, made made of of minced minced partridge partridge or or pheasant, pheasant, in in the the first first course; course; roast roast venison venison haunches haunches baked baked in in pastry pastry in in the the second; second; woodcock, woodcock, turkeys, turkeys, chickens chickens and and whole wbole lambs lambs in in the the third; third; snipe, snipe, thrushes,larks thrushes, larks and'all and 'ail sorts sorts of ofsmall small fried fried things' tbings' in in the the fourth; fourth; whole wbole salmon, salmon, trout, trou t, carp, carp, pike, pike, withy'icassdes withJricasses of ofturtle turtle in in the the fifth; fifth; and and three three finishing finishing courses courses which which would would include include blancmanges, blancmanges, fruit, fruit, almonds almonds and and green green walnuts, walnuts, preserves preserves in in syrup, syrup, or or dried dried marzipans marzipans and and sugar sugar almonds. almonds. French French banquets banquets of of the the eighteenth eighteenth century century - Great Great pomp pomp accompanied accompanied banquets banquets in in the the reign reign of of Louis Louis XV. XV. On On the the occasion occasion of of the the anointing anointing of of the the king king in in 1772, 1772, a a royal royal banbanquet quet was was held held in in the tbe archiepiscopal archiepiscopal palace palace at at Rheims. Rheims. After After gorgeous gorgeous processions processions headed headed by by musicians musicians playing playing oboes, oboes, trumpets trumpets and and flutes, fiutes, the the king king was was led led to to a a table table on on a a dais ofstate. state. dais and andjoined joinedby byhigh bigh officers officers of The Thecompany companycomprised comprised the the noblest noblestin in the the land, land, but but ladies ladies and not seated seated with with the the gentlemen, gentlemen, and and and princelings princelings were were not had had to to wait wait until until the the king king had had retired. retired. According According to to the the old old document document from from which which the the above above descriptions descriptions are are taken: taken: 'During 'During this this sumptuous sumptuous banquet banquet the the Duchess Duchess of of Lorraine, Lorraine, who, wbo, from from her her tribune, tribune, could could see see all ail the the succulent succulent dishes dishes filing filing past past without without being being able able to to touch touch them, them, quietly quietly nibbled nibbled biscuits, with with which which she she was was fortunately fortunately provided provided .... After biscuits, . . After the the dinner, dinner, the the Archbishop Archbishop of of Rheims Rhems said said grace grace - the the Duchess Duchess of of Lorraine Lorraine by by this tbis time time had had reached reached her her reserves reserves of ofdried dried plums plums-- and and the the king kingwas was re-conducted re-conducted to to his his apartapart-

ments in in the the same same order order and and with with the the same same ceremony ceremony with with ments which he he had had been been ushered ushered in.' in.' which Madame Vigie-Lebrun's Vige-Lebrun's Greek Greek supper. supper. Among Among legendary legendary Madame eighteenth century century meals meals was was a a supper supper given given by by the the artist. artist. eighteenth Vige-Lebrun. In her her memoirs memoirs she she describes describes 'the 'the most most Vig6e-Lebrun. brilliant supper supper I 1 ever ever gave,' gave,' which which was, was, in fact, a miniature miniature brilliant Her brother brother was was reading reading a a book book of of travels travels to to her her one one banq uet. Her banquet. afternoon while while she she was was resting, resting, and and came came to to a a passage passage afternoon describing a a Greek Greek dinner dinner and and the the manner manner of of preparing preparing describing

Cutlerybelonging belongingto to Louis LouisXIV XIV Cutlery

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decided to several several sauces. sauces. Madame Madame Lebrun immediately immediately decided have she was these sauces sauces for for a a supper party party she have certain certain of these giving giving that tbat evening and summoned her cook, ordering ordering that Greek Greek sauces sauces should be served with witb chickens cbickens and eels on the menu. evening's menu. and vases urns and had a a collection collection of Greek urns A friend who had decorated of his best best pieces, pieces, and the room was was decorated lent her her several several ofhis lent classical style. in classical and Monsieur Boutin, Two guests, Monsieur Vaudreuil and guests o'clock, but the other guests not able to come come until ten o'clock, were not Lebrun dressed Madame Lebrun half-past nine. Madame arrived soon after half-past draperies she had in her the women in Grecian fashion from draperies found cloaks and and other picturesque and found studio workroom, and garments for the men. guests, her her brother While they they waited waited for for the the two late guests, While two late recited several several odes when the the others others Anacreon. and and when recited odes of of Anacreon, they found found the the company Gluck's cborus chorus company singing singing Gluck's arrived, they bires from Le Dieu de M. de de Cu Cubibres et de de Cnide, with M. de Paphos et accompanying them on a lyre whicb from which he had improvised from accompanying guitar. a guitar. 'In all my life 1 I have never seen two faces more astonished than those of Monsieur de and his his companion,' companion,' de Vaudreuil Vaudreuil and than 'They continues Madame Lebrun in event. 'They in her recital of the event. were astounded and and charmed.' as sauces, as Greek sauces, with the the Greek At supper, were served served with supper, dishes were well as a They drank drank and currants. They a sweet made made from honey and a bottle of old Cyprus wine which a present to to the the which bad had been a artist. remarks. artist. 'That was all the excess,' excess,' she remarks. Rumour quickly ran about this this famous famous ran round round Versailles about supper. Rome the In Rome francs. In to have cost 20,000 francs. supper. It was said to whispered to francs, in in Vienna Vienna to to 40,000 francs, raised to whispered figure was was raised 60,000 st Madame Madame In fact, fact, it it co cost 60,000 francs, in Petersburg Petersburg to 80,000. In Lebrun, according to her memoirs, 15 francs. l5 francs. French The beginning century French banquets banque$ in the nineteenth century - The of this publication of Brillat-Savarin's la of BriJlat-Savarin's Ia the publication century saw this century saw the Physiologie goitt, in the rules rules of of in which which he he established established the Physiologie du du got,

Prince of given by birth of of the the Prince of Banquet te the Banquet given Alba to celebrate the birth by the the Duke Duke of of Alba to celebra Asturias in 1707

Marie Antoinette on the ocCasion of the birth of the Dauphin in 1785 (engraviog on metal, Louvre) Banquet given in Banquet given in honour honour of of Louis Louis XVI XVI and andQueen Queen Marie Antoinette on the occasion of the birth of the Dauphin in 1785 (engraving on metal, Louvre)

81 8l

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given on Dinner given Dinner on77Mareil March1806 1806by bythe the printdealers Paris Paris print dealers to totheir their feUow fellow dealer dealer Le LeConfrre, The legend Confrdre. The legend on onthe the print prin t bears bears the following inscription: the following inscription: 'They beg 'They beghim him to toaccept accpt this thislight light sketch their esleem sketchas asaatoken tokenof oftheir esteemand and friendship. friendship. May heremember rernember them May he them sometimes sometimes in in his his retirement retirement and and for foraa long long lime timeenjoy the happiness happiness he enjoy the he deserves heart and deserves for for rus his kindness kindness of ofheart and probity' probity'

'

great gala dinner harmoniously. For a a great dinner he laid laid down: down: dining harmoniously. be luxuriously luxuriously lit, lit, the cloth be the c10th of 'That the dining-room be be of the utmost cleanliness, and and the the temperature from from 13 13 to to 16 16 utmost c1eanliness, (6l"to R6aumur thermometer (61 degrees by the Raumur () to 66F.). 66"F.). 'That the men be witty wi withoutpretensions and the women 'That thout' pre tensions and women channing without without being too coquettish. charming 'That the choice of dishes dishes be be exquisite but restrained in 'That in number, and and the win wines the first first quality, each the es of the the best of of its kind. 'That the order for the the former should he be from from the the most substantial to the lightest, and for the latter from the lightest to those with the greatest greatest bouquet. 'That the speed of of eating eating should should be moderate, dinner the speed be moderate, being the last affair of the day; and guests behave and that the guests like at the like travellers who who aim aim to to arrive at the same same destination together. 'That the coffee be scalding hot, and the liqueurs specially chosen house.' chosen by the master of the house.' He added added rules rules for the guests' entertainment entertainment after dinner: 'That the salon bebe sufficiently sufficiently spacious a game spacious to organise organise agame of cards for for those who who cannot do do without, without, and and to to leave enough room to enable enable the rest to enjoy conversation. 'That the guests be be held by the pleasure pleasure of the company, 'That by the hope hope that that the evening evening will will not not pass without without and stirred stirred by and sorne further entertainment.' entertainment.' some In In the same sa me epoch, epoch, the the gastronome Grimod de la Reynire Reynibre established a Charte de bon manger.In manger. In his bis Manuel des des also established governing banquets. He himhi mamphitryons are decreed laws governing arnphitryons self gave gave grand dinners, some sorne of ofthem self them eccentric; he once sent out invitations invitations for a dinner in the form forro of of obituary notices, out of a big bidding his his guests guests 'attend 'attend the the funeral funeral and obsequies obsequies of bidding feed.' feed.' Fashionable Fashionable restaurants, restaurants. During the nineteenth nineteenth century, century, there was was a vogue for for magnfficent magnificent banquets banquets in certain resthere At one one such dinner, dinner, given given at Rocher Rocher de de Cancaleby Cancale by taurants. At taurants. a certain certain English English Lord Lord W., W., Marennes oysters, oysters, a a ham roasted a on a spit, grouse grouse brought brought specially from Scotland, salads, salads, on

special dishes and special sweet sweet dishes and several several kinds kinds of of cheese, cheese, figure figure on on the the menu. menu. The The wine wine was was Clos-Vougeot, and the Clos-Vougeot, and the company company did did not not depart depart until three o'clock until three o'clock in in the morning. the morning. Banquets onder the Second under the Second Empire Empire -- There There was was a number a number of gastronomical galas, of magnificent magnificent gastronomical galas, and and in in the the sections sections headed headed COOKING given of COOKING and and MENUS, MENUS, examples examples are are given of what what these these state state dinners dinners were were like. like.

The coronation dinner dinner of of Charles Charles X X at Reims The coronation at Reims

82 82

BS{mQUILLES

Novernber 1905 Banquet held held in la Galerie des Machines in Paris, 5 November

quite different different in were quite in the later Later banquets - Things were (22 Sepbanquets and at the celebrated 'mayors' banquet' banquet' (22 guests of the President 1900), 22,295 guests President of of the Republic, tember 1900), frock coats and and crush hats, hats. were were served with an attired in in frock identical menu:
Hors-d'auvre Hors-d'uvre Filet de boeuf m Bellevue Bellevue boeuf en Pains de canetons de Rouen Poularde de Bresse rtie r6tie de faisan Saint-Hubert Ballottine Saint-Hubert Ballottine defaisan Salade Potel succCs Cond Condi Glace succs Desserts number of guests sat down Never before had such a large number together at a a single meal, recounts M. Christian Guy in his achieved Histoire Histoire de la cuisine franaise; this was successfully cuisinefrangaise; successfully achieved et Chabot. by the excellent organisation organisation of Maison Potel et of official official banquets It is interesting to note that the menus of never mention mention the may have cheeses served. This may have been never the cheeses served. This formed part of the dessert and so needed no because cheese fonned special mention.

grand cru grape. The The Banyuls Banyuls grand from the from black Grenache grape. the black have to have to undergo undergo an an obligatory maturing period of thirty consumption. months in wood wood before being released for consumption. tree. Its BAOBAB known tropical African African tree. BAOBAB - The The largest largest known fruit is monkeys eat eat it. it. Its fruit is called called monkey-bread, because because monkeys flavour, is made a slight acid flavour, pulp, which is very sweet with a inhabitants a refreshing drink much liked by the local inhabitants into a grows, and is drunk of of the region where this magnificent magnificent tree grows, a great deal in Morocco and Egypt. a in the The Africans dry shade, The dry the leaves of the baobab in the shade, and mix it with call lalo, and reduce them to powder which they caUlalo, their food.

(A LA) BANQUIDRE ( BANQUIRE Garnish used used for chicken, calves' - Garnish vol-au-vent It It is made of of quenelles, mushrooms, sweetbreads, vol-au-vent. sauce. (See thin slivers slivers of banquidre sauce. thin truffies and of trufles and banquire GARNTSHES.) GARNISHES.) BANTAM BANT AM A variety of Java Java chickens, named after the -A town where they origjnated. originated. These birds have a very delicate prepared in the same way as ordinary chickens. ordinary chickens. flesh, and are prepared
which allowed BANVIN - French word for the feudal right which the seigneur wine from his estate estate for for a a certain the from his seigneur to to sell sell the the wine time, before The word word is also used for the is also time, before anyone anyone else. else. The used for proclamation announcing private day after announcing the after which which priva proclamation te the day could Id sell persons cou sell new wine.

Baobab

BAI\YUIS Commune in the eastem eastern Pyrenees, which has BANYULS - Commune given its name to a well-known appellation controle controlie dessert a well-known crz, which is is produced wine and Banyuls grand cru, - Banyuls and from the slaty in a a restricted mountainous terrain from the terrain in restricted zone slaty mountainous comprising the communes of of Banyuls, Banyuls, Port-Vendres, Port-Vendres, comprising the communes Cerbbre and Collioure. This wine is made almost exclusively exclusivelv Cerbre
83

A hot hors-d'euvre; triangular patties, BARAQUILLES hot hors-d'uvre; -A filled (q.v.) of winged game fillets, with a a salpicon calves' fillets, caives' filled with salpicon (q.v.) winged game gras, trutHes foie gras, sweetbreads, foie trufles and mushrooms, bound with (see SAUCE). Madeira-flavoured Allemande sauce AarMadeira-flavoured sauce (see SAUCE). Barprepared as rissoles. aquilles are also prepared aquilles

BARASHmflrffMesU BARASHEKII2f.MASLA
(Butter lamb) (Russian cookery) lamb with butter which has been rendered left in ic ice water. Coyer Cover the model with a thin down with a utter, tter, pressing down a coarse-weave coarse-weave cloth to give the appearance appearance of fleece. fleece. Mark the eyes with ttle circles of truffies, trufles, or two raisins. Put Put a small green ranch in the lamb's mouth. is a a feature of the This symbolic lamb is the traditional traditional table Easter meal in Russia. laid for the ritual Easter BAR Make
FRlr as described described in barbel. sARBtLLoN Proceed as Fried BARBILLON FRIT Fried barbel. - Proceed bass (see BASS). BASS). for Fried bass the recipe for cnnr,6 -- Proceed Proceed as as described BARBILLON GRILL Grilled Grined barbel. BARBILLoN for Grilled Dass (see BASS). in the recipe for Grilled bass in A LA MsuNItnn meunibre. BARBILLoN Ln MEUNIRE BARBILLON Barbel I la meunire. - Proceed .Bass meuniCre (see BASS). in the recipe for Bass d la meunire as described described in A LA rl MODE Droos DES nEs des mariniers. BARBEAU Barbel i la mode des a l-kg. (2-lb.) barbel and cut off MARINIERS MARTNIERs - Clean and scale al-kg. fish, fins. Put the roe, if any, any, back into the fish, and fins. the wattles and pepper. and pepper. seasoned with salt and lightly in in butter 2 chopped 4 shallots and 4 Fry ions and Fry 2 chopped on onions shallots lightly without browning, browning, and place in an earthenware earthenware dish, together (a oz.) chopped g. (4 and 100 g. with 7 or 8 chopped dried walnuts and mushrooms. pepper, fish, season and pepper, Make a a few slits in in the fish, season with salt and dish. Add Addz and place on the above ingredients in the dish. 2 glasses g. (4 oz., ~ red wine, and into small red and 100 g. i cup) butter divided into Bring slowly to the boil on top of the stove, th then pieces. Bring en cook in a hot oyen basting frequently. Ten minutes oven for 35 minutes, minutes, basting and with breadcrumbs and before the end cooking, sprinkle sprinkle with end of cooking, end of the 35 in the oyen. melted butter and and replace in oven. By the end away. minutes the wine should should have boiled away. with chopped parsley before serving. Sprinkle with n6rr -- Make in a Roast barbel. barbel. BARBEAU BARBEAU RTI Make slits a mediumslits in in the of anchovy in the slits, slits, sprinkle insert fillets fillets of sized sized barbel, barbel, insert with oil or melted butter, season, and roast in the oyen oven or on a spit. frequently during cooking. a spit. Baste frequently placed on fish is cooked and and placed a dish, dish, dilute the When the fish on a juices with I tablespoon pan juices with white white wine, wine, boil boil down, down, add add 1 juice, stir weil, butter and a dash of lemon well, and serve with the butter lemon juice,stir fish. (see BUTTER) BUTTER) d h|tel butter butter (see Anchovy butter Matte d'htel butter or or Matre can be served at the same time. parts of the of in sorne the south south of ON BARBER Name used used in BARBERON some parts - Name France for for salsify. BARBERRY. PINE-VINETTE shrub. Its fpNn-vtNsrrs -- A common prickly shrub. pickled in green berries like capers. capers. The green can be be pickled in vinegar, vinegar, like berries can berries, a red red colour in in November, contain berries, which which ripen ripen to to a and are are used great deal used to to make tric acid, and a and ci citric malic and a great deal of malic jam, and syrup, jam, and a a kind kind of wine. for Barberries are are also also used used to a refreshing drink drink for to make a is used used brewed from the the roots is feverish feverish conditions. conditions. A tisane tisane brewed as a in cases of a diuretic, diuretic, especially especially in of jaundice. AU SEC sEc Dried candied barberries. coNFITE AU fpINe-vINErrE CONFITE barberries. PINE-VINETTE red a fine fine red An An old old recipe says: 'Take large large ripe barberries of a (21b.) lb.) berries, cook colour. Leave them in c1usters. kg. (2 For 1 I kg. clusters. For (2jlb.) feather (see SUGAR). lf kg. (2~ SUGAR). Put in the li lb.) sugar to a large feather appear. barberries and boil on a high flame until bubbles bubbles appear. 'Ta\<:e the stove. When the fruit is beginning to. 'Take off to cool, put offthe . it in in a on a a thick c10th cloth until a hot cupboard, leaving it to drain on paper to finish next white paper to finish Transfer to clean white next day. day. Transfer to sheets sheets of c1ean which has has draining. with sugar sugar which draining. Dust Dust the the c1usters clusters of berries berries with the been rubbed through a very fine sieve, sieve, and return them to the hot cupboard to dry off completely.' offcompletely.' ('Paddler') BARBOTEUR ('Padd.ler') for the the - Common French name for domestic duck. (See DUCK.)

BARBADOS DEs BARBADES BARBADOS CREAM. CREAM. CRME cnirr,c DES - Liqueur made of lemon, lemon, orange and peel, mace, mace, cinnamon, and citron citron peel, cinnamon,
which was once a cloyes, sugar a fashionable cloves, sugar and and eau-de-vie, which drink.

BARBAREA. BARBARE nARSARfE also called called herb herb of - also - This plant piquant, rather St Barbara, yarrow, and rocket and yellow rocket - has a piquant, flavour not unlike that s, and the same cress, and has has the not unlike that of cres bitter flavour properties. It grows wild in damp and sandy anti-scorbutic properties~ places. called land cress or American cress A variety variety of barbarea, called (U.5. winter (U.S. winter cress) is cultivatedand cultivated and eaten in salads. Barbarea can can be be prepared in in ail all the ways ways recommended recornmended for cresso cress. In certain regions it is mixed with spinach. spinach.
BARBARIN BARBARIN a fish fish of the mullet family. - French name for a

(U.S. squash) BARBARINE marrow (U.S. BARBARINE A variety variety of of marrow squash) of -A various shapes and sizes. an elongated sizes. It has an elongated shape, rather like a a cucumber, plain yellow or parti-coloured, sometimes sometimes striped with green. The best barbarines are pale yellow, and and given for marrows can be prepared according to the recipes given and and cucumbers. cucumbers.

Barbel

BARBEL. BARBEAU, BARBILLON BARBTLLoN fish recognisable recognisable by - River fish the snout, and the the barbels at the end of and at the corners of ofthe ofthe jaws. In is found found in in ail all the rivers. In France, the the common barbel is The southern barbel is found in the found in in the south of France, France, in Alpes-Maritimes Pyr6n6es-Orientales. Alpes-Maritimes and in the Pyrnes-Orientales. The bel is The flesh flesh of the is insipid, insipid, and and it it has the bar barbel has too too many pleasant. The bones bones to be pleasant. The fish fish feeds feeds on on the river bed bed and the river to be nibbles at at the the fishermen's bait, bait, especially especially those those of of animal origin, is fond fond of crickets origin, which are very much to its taste. It is and grass-hoppers, and in the autumn rises to the in and grass-hoppers, the surface in their pursuit. pursuit. Large barbel, found found in the Loire, are considered considered the best, and roast. The The small may be and may be poached, braised, baked baked or or roast. ones, usually called barbillons, are grilled or fried. Recipes are grilled or fried. for be applied to U.S.A. The The soft for barbel can be to the the catfish of U.S.A. barbel are roes of reputed to are delicate, but the ofbarbel the hard roes are reputed be be poisonous. BoiJed variou sauces. BARBEAU BOUILLI BoUILLI -Boiled barbel barbel with with various sauces. BARBEAU (see COURTPoach Poach the the barbel barbel in in Court-bouillon Court-bouillon IV IV (see BOUILLON). BOUILLOI$. Drain boiled potDrain thoroughly. thoroughly. Garnish with boiled atoe.s and fr.esh frssh parsley. Serve, as as recommended recommended in individual recipes, recipes, with with melted Butter sauce, santce, melted butter butter or or White White sauce, sauce, Butter Hollandaise Hollandaise sauce or Caper Caper sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Barbel Barbel t la bourguignonne. bornguigDonne. BARBEAU A LA r,c, BOURGUIGNONNE souncuIGNoNNE in the recipe as described in recipe for for BrW Brill d la bourguigbourgaig- Proceed as nonne (see BRILL).
.

BARD. BARDER -- To a piece of of meat, To bard bard means to cover a to coyer poultry, game or, more rarely, a large fish before braising it, rarely,alarge with thin slices ofbacon string. of bacon or or salt salt or fresh pork, tied with string. After cooking, the barding fat is removed. removed. Its main purpose is meat, or or breast of poultry. of the meat, is to protect delicate delicate parts of It is, is, however, however; customary customary to to serve serve roast game - woodcock, quail, pheasant, fat or pheasant, partridge, etc. or bacon which etc. - with the fat was used used for for barding.

pork fat BARDING fat bacon, or or pork fat bacon, n.mon -- Slices Slices of of fat FAT. BARDE BARDING FAT. game, as (fresh or salted) as (fresh as weil well as and game, enveloping poultry and salted) for enveloping
84 84

BARQUETTES
various cuts of meat, before they they are.braised, are braised, poached poached or various
roasted. roasted. 1 for liningpdt4s liningpts cooked pie-cru st and Itt is also used for cooked in pie-brust terrines. terrines.

BARIGOULE - Name for a mushroom mushroom which is also ca lied BARIGOULEcalled

and bourigoule in in the brigoule the south south of France. It is very brigoule and It is good to eat.

given to stutfed say that the term terrn d la barigoule, barigutle, given stuffed artichokes, na me of the mushroom mushroom which is used in is derived from the name the south-east south-east of France for filling artichokes. of France

( LA) Sorne authors LA) BARIGOULE (A authors of cookery cookery books - Some

BAR-LE-DUC BAR-LE-DUC which is is famous for its - Town in Lorraine which redcurrant redcurrant jams.
BARLEY; - One of of the most ancient BARLEY. ORGE ancient cultivated cultivated cereals, oRGEwhich still exists in its original form on the shores of of the Red original forrn and Caspian Seas. Seas. is poorer in gluten than wheat, and its flour Barley grain is does not forrn formed with water. It is form an elastic elastic paste when forrned therefore not suitable ingredient for as an an ingredient for bread. bread. Barley therefore not suitable as (once a a staple which is with wheat (once is generally mixed with bread, which food for is rarely made nowadays. for agricultural labourers), is rarely made good keeping It has good keeping qualities but is difficult to digest. (barley water) of the A infusion (barley the most water) was wzn one one of A barley barley infusion medicines prescribed by Hippocrates. Hippocrates. Barley water popular medicines (I! g. (l-! 20 g. is it, wash wash 20 is refreshing and and emollient. To prepare it, emollient. To I litre in 1 tablespoons, 2 tablespoons) pearl barley, and boil in (1| (1 i pints, generous quart) water water until cooked. Leave to stand for back of a and press well well with with the back for a a short time, time, strain, strain, and wooden spoon. spoon. A tisane, which is slightly slightly laxative, is made in the proportion of 1 I litre (scant quart, I to 2 tablespoons to 1 tablespoons barley water to generous quart) water. generous is beneficial in in feverish feverish This tisane tisane is water. This conditions. conditions. Barley is used in cookery in the form of hulled barley and porridge pearl barley, pearl barley, mainly used for creams, porridge mainly used for soups, soups, creams, (bouillie), and (see MUTTON, garnish for (bouillie), ragoitts (see and as as garnish for ragots Ragot of Ragoitt of mutton with barley). flakes and and barley flour are are used used to lighten cereal Barley flakes barley flour to lighten produces malt (q.v.). germinated barley produces Artificially germinated diets. Artificially D'oRGE -Cook 250 g. Barley sucRE D'ORGE Barley sugar sugar (confection). SUCRE - Cook 250 (4| quarts, 5-! 5] quarts) (9 oz., li cups) hulled barley in 5 litres (4-! oz.,l| water for for 5 hours. the liquid liquid (which resembles white hours. Strain Strain the jelly) and previously cooked cooked to jelly) and decant. Add sorne sugar, previously decant. Add some sugar, (l10"C., 230F.) soufr6 degree (110C., souffl 230"F.) to until to this liquid, and cook until (150"C., 302F.). sugar reaches reaches crack degree (150C., sugar Pour onto an 302"F.). Pour oiled marble slab (or oiled metal sheet) and when it begins to cool, cut into long strips strips and twist. This is the original method of making barley sugar sticks. are now now made from They are from drawn drawn sugar. prnrf Consomm6 with pearl barley. CONsOMM Consomm A L'ORGE r'oRcE PERLcoNsourrd lN g. (4 oz., Wash 100 generous -! oz.,generous barley in warrn warm water ] cup) pearl barley (4* pints, add it to pints, 5-! pints) consomm to 2-! 2+ litres litres (4-! 5| pints) and add consomm6 (meat a stalk of celery, and simmer slowly for 2 hours. stock). Add a Cream of barley soup See SOUPS SOUPS AND BROTHS. - See Hulled barley barley broth. nfcocrroN D'ORGE Hulled broth. DCOCTION D'oRcE MOND MoNDf - Wash (4 oz., g. (4 100 g. oz., generous -! hulled barley in warm warm water, * cup) hulled (3 quarts, 7-! and soak soak in in 3-! pints) cold 3| litres litres (3 and 7| pints) cold water for for an g. (4 hour. Add 25 g. teaspoons) salt, 2 carrots, 1 onion studded @ teaspoons) a clove, 4 with a leeks and 4leeks and 2 stalks celery. Simmer very very slowly for 3 3 hours, hours, and and strain. slowly for strain. This This barley is most refreshing. broth is Mutton broth with barley barley See SOUPS SOUPS AND BROTHS, - See Mutton broth.

Barnacles

and regions flie, bassin, jamble jamble and for example, regions of France, for example, flie, of France, arapde. arapide. eaten raw, or with vinaigrette 1 ts flesh is rather tough and is eaten Its dressing. dressing. Small limpets can be prepared like mussels, while can be grilled, or the large ones are butter and grilled, are often brushed with butter' en mate/ote, matelote, etc. etc. prepared d l'amricaine, l'amiricaine, en
BERNACLE Bird of BARNACLE BARNACHE, BERNACLE BARNACL,E GOOSE. GOOSE. BARNAcI{E, - Bird greyleg goose. goose. It passage resembling the greyleg It is is also also called called oiepassage marine (sea goose) in France. marine Barnacle geese winter on the coasts of Europe. Their Their flesh Barnacle is edible is the the same same as as for is edible but but indigestible. Preparation Preparation is bustard (q.v.).

joint of of mutton BARON French name of of a large joint - This is the French comprising the The term is also comprising le and term is legs. The the sadd saddle and the the two two legs. applied to to lamb. piece of beef: beef : a baron In England, it is only used for a large piece used mostly U.S.A. the term is used of beef, or double sirloin. In U.S.A. hindquarters (both legs and both loins) oflamb. of lamb. for the hindquarters anecdote is is told about about baron baron or sirloin of of The following anecdote fond of a hearty eater, was fond beef. King Henry VIII, who was a a double loin roast beef. One day, delighted by the sight of a it. The noble set before him, him, he he conferred knighthood upon it. has been sanctioned by title bestowed bestowed on this piece of beef has on this is known day as known to this day as sirloin sirloin or baron custom, and and the cut is of beef. as a a roast, roast, and and someThe sirloin is generally prepared as The sirloin is where the dish is is much In England, where times times cooked on a a spit. In the dish pudding, which it is is served with Yorkshire Yorkshire pudding, which is esteemed, it served with pan under under the made from from batter made batter cooked cooked in in the the dripping pan joint. roasting joint. garnished Barons of mutton or lamb are are also also roasted, roasted, garnished Barons of mutton or lamb vegetables; or they can be served with their their own gravy, with vegetabJes; and garnished with with watercress. and filled with with various BARQUETTES BARQLIETTES Oval tartlet tartlet shells shells filled - Oval compositions compositions before before cooking. cooking. They They can can be be baked baked blind (empty) and and then then filled. a Barquettes are also used for a Barquettes hors-d'euvre (q.v.) or a a small hors-d'uvre TARTLETS. e ntr de. (For more sweet sw eet barquettes, b ar que t t e s, see see T ARTLETS.) small small entre. ) ABRrcors -- Make I. BARQUETTES AUx ABRICOTS Apricot barquettes barquettes 1. sAReuerrEs AUX (9 oz., 2* g. (9 2f cups) sieved Flaky pastry (see DOUGH) sieved Flaky DOUGH) with 250 250 g. I egg yolk, 150 flour, scant teaspoon salt, 21 2| teaspoons sugar, 1 generous I cup) butter and and 1 I dl. (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant g. (5 oz., generous1cuP) 1 water. l cup) "rrp) ($ inch) cut out the paste to a a thickness thickness of 3 to 4 mm. (t Roll out pastry-cutter and fluted oval line boat-shaped a fluted out oval pastry-cutter and line out with with a boat-shaped tartlet tarti et tins tins with with the the ovals. ovals. Prick the the bottom of the the paste to to prevent it rising ring baking. rising du during baking. Sprinkle with with fine fine sugar.
85

BARNACLE. BERNICLE suRNrcrs BARNACLE. Common name name for for the the limpet, - Common the mollusc with the conical shell that attaches itselfto itself to rocks on the seashore. It is on is known known by by various names in in ditferent different

BARREL

Making ttes (Inr o us s e) Making barque barquettes (Larousse)

Stone Stone and and quarter quarter fresh fresh apricots, apricots, and and arrange arrange in in the tartlets, tartlets, skin side side down. Bake Bake in a moderate moderate oven oyen (180oC., (180C., 350oF., Gas Mark Mark 4) 4) for about about 20 20 minutes. minutes. Take the the tartlets tartlets 350F., Gas out of of the the tins tins and cool them them on a wire cake tray. Spoon Spoon apricot apricot jam jam into into them. them. Break Break the the apricot stones, stones, blanch blanch the the kernels, kernels, and and put two two halves ha Ives on on each tartlet. tarti et. Apricd barquettes II. sA,neuETrES BARQUETIES Arrx AUX ABRrcors ABRICOTS - As in Apricot barquettes preceding puff pastry pastry instead instead of flaky pastry. pastry. preceding recipe, recipe, using using puff Apricot I'ancienne. l'ancienne. BAReTJETTES BARQUElTES Aux AUX ABRJABRIApricot barquettes barquettes A cors COTS A L'ANcIENM L'ANCIENNE - Fill Fill flaky pastry pastry tartlets tartlets with vanillavanillaflavoured tter cream Butter cream (see (see CREAMS). CREAMS). Decorate Decorate with with halves halves flavoured .Ba
of of blanched blanched almonds almonds and and crvstallised crystallised cherries. cherries.

(49| (49t gallons, gallons, 62 62 gallons), gallons), in in Cognac about 205 205 litres litres (45 gallons, 56 gallons), in Mdcon Mcon about about 213 litres (47 gallons, gaJlons, 58| gal58t gallons), and in Nantes, 2l0litres 210 litres (46 gallons, 57t 571 gallons). Ions).

BARROT - French ivord word for for a a small small barrel barrel containing containing anchovies; anchovies; the term term applies only to anchovy barrels.

BARSAC - Commune Commune in in the Gironde that has has given given its name name to a fine white white Bordeaux Bordeaux wine. Barsac Barsac has has the right to appellation Sauternes. Sauternes. (See BORDEALIX.) BORDEAUX.) the appellatrbn BASELLA BASELLA flndian (lndian spinach). spinach). BASELLE - Edible plant, native of tropical countries, countries, cultivated cultivated in some sorne parts of of France. It of
is is prepared prepared in the the same way as spinach. spinach.

BASIL. BASIL. BAsILtc BASILIC - Plant Plant cultivated cultivated in in gardens gardens for the sake of its fragrance. fragrance. There There are several several varieties: varieties: sweet sweet basil, basil, the
Dcstl, bas il, which is is often often grown grown as as a a pot herb. herb. It'is Itis used used in Provenca, together with with garlic, garlic, for for flavornng flavouring pistou, pistou, a Provence, together popular popular soup soup in in this this region. Basil once considered considered a a royal royal plant; plant; only only the the soverergn soverelgn Basil was was once (basilats) (basileus) could cut it, and even ev en then then only with a golden plant has has now now come come into common common use. use. sickle. The plant
leaves which are leaves of ofwhich are dried dried and and used used as as a condiment condiment in cookery; cookery; monk's monk 's basil, basil, which can can be be similarly preserved; and bush and, bush

Basil
Savoury Savoury barquettes barquettes

BARREL. BARREL. BARIL BARIL - Small Small cask cask of of variable variable capacity, capacity, usually usually 72 (l5~ gallons, gallons, l9it 19i gallons) gallons) used used as as a a container container for for 72 litres litres (15f
brandy, vinegar, vinegar, oil, oil, anchovies, anchovies, herrings herrings or or other other fish, fish, olives, olives, brandy, of wine wine in in Britain Britain amounts amounts to to ll5 115 litres litres (25 (25 etc. A A barrel barrel of etc. gallons, 31 gallons), gallons), in in Tuscany Tuscany 20 20 litres litres (4f (41 gallons, gallons, 5f 5t gallons, 3l gallons). gallons). BARRIQUE - Large Large cask cask or or barrel barrel used used for for transporting transporting BARRIQUE liquids in in France. France. Its Its capacity capacity varies varies in in different different regions. regions. In In liquids Bordeaux Bordeaux and and in in the the south south of of France France it it is is about about 225litres 225 litres 86 86 composed of offried cpes andAnna and Anna potatoesin potatoes in dariole dariole moulds moulds composed fried cCpes sprinkled with with chopped chopped Bayonne Bayonne ham. ham. sprinkled BASQUAISE (A ( LA) LA) - Garnish Garnish for for large large cuts cuts of of meat meat BASQUAISE

BASS BASS
BAS-ROND -- Term Term incorrectly incorrectly used used in in sorne some cookery cookery books books BAS-ROND instead of of baron (q.v.). baron (q.v.). instead BASS. BAR sAR -- This This fish, fish, which which is is also also called called sea sea dace, dace, sea wolf sea wolf BASS. or sea perch abounds sea perch abounds in in the the Mediterranean. Meditgrranean. It It is is also also found, found, or in srnaller smaller numbers, numbers, in in the the Atlantic Atlantic Ocean. Ocean. Bass Bass does does not not in normally go go beyond beyond the the English English Channel, Channel, and and rarely rarely penepenenonnally trates into into the the Baltic. Baltic. trates . Two species species are are known: known: the (sea wolf) the common common bass bass (sea wolf) on on Two the Mediterranean Mediterranean coast, coast, and and striped striped bass. Dass. The The common common the Dass is is seen great deal seen a a great deal in in French French markets, markets, and and is is recogrecogbass nisable by by its its silvery, grey-blue back silvery, grey-blue back and and white white belly. belly. The The nisable bass of of the the U.S.A., U.S.A., while while not prepared not exactly exactly the the sa same, is prepared bass me, is in the the same gastronomes do same way. way. Sorne Some gastronomes do not not admit admit that that the the in flesh of particular delicacy, of the bass bass has any any particular delicacy, but but many many people people flesh like it. it. like prepare. Clean To prepare. fish through Clean the the fish gills and through the the gills and through through a a To light incision incision.made on the the belly. belly. Do Do not not scale scale the the bass bass if if it it is is made on light poached, but scale be poached, it, without scale it, without breaking breaking the the skin, if it skin, if it is is to be to be be braised, braised, fried grilled. Wash fried or or grilled. Wash and and dry dry the the fish. fish. to a few few light light incisions on part of on the the fleshy fleshy part of the the back, back, Make a it along slit it along the the backbone, or or cut cut into into unifonn-sized pieces; uniform-sized pieces; proceed according to to the the recipe recipe cbosen chosen. proceed .
pieces. Cook Cut the the bass bassinto into unifonn uniform pieces. Cookas asdescribed described in inthe the Cut recipe for (see BRILL). for Curried Curuied fillets ofbrill brill(see BRILL). recipe fillets of Bass Duglr. Dugl6r6. BAR nen DUGLR oucr,6nf- - Scale Scale aabass bass weighing weighingabout about Bass (1* lb.). Cut g.(li-Ib.). 750 g. pieces of Cut into intopieces ofequal equal size. size. Melt Meltsorne some butter butter 750 inaasaut pan, and saut6 pan, andadd add1 1tablespoon tablespoon chopped chopped onion, onion,44peeled, in peeled, seededandchopped and chopped tomatoes, tomatoes,1Itablespoon tablespoon coarselychopped coarselychopped seeded parsley, a quarter of asprig sprig of of thyrne, pinch thyme, quarter of aabay bayleaf, leaf,and andaapinch parsley, garlic. Put ofgrated Put the bass on the bass on this thisfoundation, foundation,season, and season, and of grated garlic. moisten with pint, i3cup) with It 1+dl. dl.(t cup) dry dry white white wine. wine. Bring Bring to to moisten $ pint, pan, and the boil, boil, coyer cover the the pan, and transfer it to transfer it to the theoyen, oven,cooking cooking the for 12 12 to to 15 15 minutes. minutes. Drain piecesof Drain the the pieces of bass bassand arrange and arrange for them on on aa dish dish in in the fish. theshape shape of of the the fish. them Remove the the thyme thyme and and bay pan, add bay leaf leaf from from the g. thepan, add 60 Remove 60 g. (2! oz., (3 tablespoons) oz., 1 cup) butter butter and and 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) (2t * cup) (see SAUCE) VeloutC sauce sauce (see SAUCE) made made of of fish fish stock. Velout stock. Pour Pour the the sauce over over the fish and the fish and sprinkle parsley. sprinkle with with chopped chopped parsley. sauce Alternatively, instead instead ofusing of using velout velouti sauce, sauce, thicken with aa Alternatively, thicken with tablespoon of kneaded butter, of kneaded butter, or tablespoon or with with j tablespoon tablespoon Bour flour mixed with with 2 (3 tablespoons) 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 mixed tablespoons) water; water; this this last last is is called dlameuniire. caUed la meunire. Fillets of of bass. bass. FILETS DE BAR BAR -- Bass FrLErs DE Fillets prepared Bass is is not not often often prepared in fillets, fillets, but but when when this in this method method is is adopted, adopted, the the fillets fillets should should be skinned skinned and and weil be given for well trimmed. trimmed. Ali All the the recipes recipes given for whole whole given for (U.S. porgy well as bass, as as weil as those those given for bream bass, porgy or bream (U.S. or scup), scup), mullet or or river river trou muilet t, can trout, can be be applied applied to to fillets fillets of of bass. bass.So So can can given for recipes given recipes for fresh fresh cod, whiting, mackerel mackerel and, generally, cod, whiting, and, generally, for ail all sea for fish. sea fish. Fried bass. bass. BAR FRrr -- This Fried BAR FRIT This method method is is suitable for smallsuitable for smallsize size bass. bass. Scale Scale the the fish, fish, make make a a few few slits, and soak it in slits, and soak it in salted salted milk which milk . Dredge which has has been been boiled get cold boiled and and allowed allowed to to get cold. Dredge with with Bour flour and and deep-fry deep-fry in in sizzling oil. sizzling oil. Drain, Drain, dry, dry, sprinkle garnish witb sprinkle with with fine fine salt, salt, and and garnisb with fried fried parsley and . parsley and slices lemon. slices of of lemon When When no no small are available, small bass bass are available, large large fish, fish, eut cut into into slices slices or or steaks, prepared in steaks, can can be be prepared in the the same same way. way. Bass au gratin BAR Bass au gratin. BAR AU AU GRATIN GRATTN -- This This metbod method is is mostly mostly applied applied to to fillets fillets of of bass. bass. Proceed Proceed as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for gratin (see (see SOLE). for Sole Sole au au gratin SOLE).

Bass

Boiled or poached bass or poacbed bass with with various various sauces. Boiled sauoes. BAR BAR BOUILLI BourLLr into Court-bouillon III (see (see COURTBOUILLON). BOUILLON). As soon as it boils, draw the pan to to the edge edge of of the burner, and poach, simmering simmering lightly. Drain the bass, and and garnish with fresh parsley. garnish Serve with melted butter, or with Hollandaise Hollandaise sauce or Serve or any any (see SAUCE). other sauce recommended recommended for boiled fisb fish (see SAUCE). poached fish, Boiled all poached Boiled bass, bass, like ail fish, is is served served with with steamed or boiled potatoes. Braised bass witb with various sauces garnishes. BAR sauoes and and garnisbes. sAR BRAIS nRArsf bas s, and and spread the inside inside with a a large piece of - Clean the bass, butter which which has has been been kneaded kneaded with parsley and with chopped chopped parsley and pui it in pepper. Season seasoned with salt and pepper. outside. Put Season the thJoutside. in a fish kettle on a foundation of sbredded ions shredded carrots and and on onions lightly Iightly fried in butter. Add (q.v.). Moisten Add a a bouquet garni (q.v.). with with dry dry white wine; for a bass weighing 1 (2f lb.) use 3 I kg. (2i 3 dl. (} (t pint, pint, lf li cups) cups) wine. wine. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) melted butter. butter. Bring to to the boil, then transfer the the fish kettle kettle to the oyen oven and cook, uncovered, uncoverecl, for 25 25 to to 30 30 minutes, basting basting frequently. frequently. . minutes, Drain Drain the the bass and arrange braising arrange on a dish. Reduce the braising fish. Add the gamish. liquor, add butter, and pour over the fish. garnish. Serve with Espagnole sauce (made with fish stock) or with Serve AlI gamishes recommended for Velout (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). All Velouti garnishes recommended fish are suitable for bass (see (see BRILL, BRILL, TURlarge braised fish SALMON). BOT, SALMON). bass with witbvarious FROID - Cook the fish, fish, Cold bass various sauces. BAR FRorD whole or in large large pieces, in Court-bouillon (see COURTwhole Court-bouillon III (see COURTBOUILLON). Allow Allow to to cool cool in in the the liquor. Iiquor. Drain, Drain, and BOUILLOI$. garnish garnish with fresh parsley. parsley. Serve Serve with a a cold sauce. sauce. bass can also be prepared by following one Cold bass one of the recipes given given for salmon and salmon trout. Cooked in courtrecipes Cookd,in bouillon, it can can also also be be served served with with the garnishes garnishes used used for for large bouillon,it cold fish, fish, such su ch as hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs, eggs, stuffed artichoke articboke hearts, hearts, cold lettuce hearts, hearts, macidoines macdoines of of vegetables, vegetables, etc. etc. lettuce Curried bass bass i I'indienne. l'indienne. BAR AU AU cuRRrE. CURRIE, A r'lNorENNs L'INDIENNE Curied pocn6 - Put the bass ou pocH OU -

Double grill for Double grill for small small fish fish

Grilled bass bass witb with various various sauces. sauces. BAR sAR GRILL cRrr,r"6 -- This This method method is applied to bass of of medium size. Scale the to bass size. Scale the fish, fish, make make a a few few shallow incisions, season, season, dredge dredge with with flour, flour, brush brush with with oil oil or melted butter, grill on or melted butter, and and grill a moderate on a moderate heat. heat. Turn the bass once during cooking, the bass cooking, and and baste baste with with oi! once during oil or or melted melted butter from from time time to to time. time. Gamish parsley, and Garnish with with fresh fresh parsley, and surround surround witb with slices slices of of decoratively decoratively eut cut lemon. lemon. Serve Serve with with Maitre Malte d'htel dh\tel buller, butter, Anchovy buller, (see BUTTER), butter, Ravigote Ravigote buller butter (see BUTTER), or or one one of of the special . grilled fish special sauces sauces recommended recommended for for grilled fish. Bass Bass i la la livornaise. livornaise. BAR nln A LA LA LlVORNAISE LrvoRNAnn -- This This metbod method is is suitable for for small-size bass. Scale Scale 4 4 bass, put small-size bass. bass, season, and put season, and them in them in a a well-buttered well-buttered or or oiled oiled fireproof fireproof dish dish on a foundation foundation on a t, scant consisting of pint, (see dl. (1 Tomato fondue 2 dl. of 2 cup) Tomato scant cup) $ pin fon&te (see FONDUE) ion, and plenty of FONDUE) mixed mixed with with plenty of chopped chopped on onion, and flavoured with a pinch of a pinch of pounded garlic. Scatter breadcrumbs breadcrumbs on on top, top, sprinkle with oil, and cook oil, and sprinkle with cook in the in the oyen oven for for about about 15 15 minutes. minutes. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with chopped chopped 1?arsley parsley before before serving. serving.

87 8',1

BASTE BASTE
Bass I la la meunibre. meUllire. sAR BAR A rA LA l{suminr MEUNIRESuitable for for small5mallBass - Suitable make a few few incisions, Incisions, sprinkle with with bass. Scale them, them, make size bass. /lour, and and cook cook in in a frying frying pan pan in in butter. butter. Use Use an oval-shaped ovaJ-shaped flour, pan, if if possible. possible. pan, When the the fish fish is is cooked cooked and golden on both both sides, place place When a dish dish and sprinkle sprinkle with with chopped chopped parsley parsley and a few few drops drops on a of lemon lemon juice. juice. of Heat the butter butter left in in the pan pan until it browns, browns, adding adding more if if necessary, necessary, and pour it over the the fish. Bass Bass prepared prepared more this way may may be be served with various various garnishes garnishes (see (sec SOLE, SOLE, in this meunire). Sole meuniire). Bass I la portugaise portugaise I. 1. n.m BAR A ,\ L,c. LA ponrucAlsE PORTUGAISE - Scale Scale a bass bass Bass weighing about 300-400 300-400 g. (t (ilb.). lightly along along the back, lb.). Slit lightly weighing buttered pan. pan. season, and put into a buttered quantities of white white wine and concentrated fish Boil equal quantities afume/ (q.v.), (q.v.), pour pour over over the fish, and cook in stock down to afumet pan for for 15 15 minutes. minutes. Drain the the bass, put in in a the covered pan fueproof dish, and surround surround with a border border of thick Tomato fireproof fondue (sec FONDUE). Boil Boil down down the the pan juices, juices, add add 3 3 (see FONDUE). fondue tablespoons (scant (scant I J cup) cup) Veloutd Velout sauce (see SAUCE) SAUCE) based tablespoons fJsh stock and some sorne butter, butter, and pour pour it over over the bass. on fish Glaze in a a very very hot hot oven, oyen, and and sprinkle with with chopped Glazn in parsley before serving. serving. ponrucAlsE portugaise Il. BAR A L.c, LA PORTCGAISE - Proceed Proceed as Bass II. sAR i la portugaise described for Bass Bass Dugliri Duglr (but (but leaving leaving the the fish fish whole). described for Place in a fireproof dish. Boil down the pan juices, to which butter has has been been added, pour pour over ovcr the the fish, fish, sprinkle sorne sprinkle some butter glaze in a very with breadcrumbs, and very hot hot oven. oyen. and glaze with pnowNqALE - Scale the BAR A ,\ rn LA PROVENALE provenale. san la provengale. Bass la bass, make a few shallow flour, and and fry dredge with with flour, a few shallow slits, slits, dredge bass, oil. briskly in oiL When cooked and put the sides, put on both sides, and golden brown on When sauce (see fish in in a fireproof dish, Provenale sauce wfth Provengale dish, cover cover with a fireproof fish SAUCE), sprinkle brcadcrumbs and and brown and oil, oil, and with breadcrumbs sprinkle with in a hot oyen a few few minutes. for a a hot oven for SprinkJe parsley before serving. serving. with chopped parsley Sprinkle with garnishes. BAR BAR BRAIS6 BRAIS Stuffed variou garnishes. bass with with variollS braised bass Strffed braised FARCI bass with forcemeats special forcemeats with one one of of the the special a bass FARcr - Stuff Stuff a above. recommended for bove. it as as described described a fish. Braise Braise it large fish. for large BTONNETS or or BATONS BTONS - Various Various preparations preparations shaped shaped BATONhIETS the form of of little little sticks. sticks. in the BTONNETS ALlx AUX AMANDES AMANDES - Fancy Fancy Almond bfltonnets. btonnets. sAroNNETs A}nond biscuits (cookies), (cookies), which come into into the the category of of petits petits biscuits fours. fours. Pound 250 250 e. g. O (9 oz., oz., l| li cups) cups) blanched blanched almonds almonds in in a mortar mortar Pound 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz., oz., generous generous cup) cup) fine hne sugar. sugar. Turn into into a bowl bowl with 250 and mix mix witn with f 3 egg whites and 1 1 dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant f t rum. Blend Blend thoroughly thoroughly into a smooth smooth paste paste and and roll roI! out cup) rum. 2 cm. Q (l inch) inch) thick thick on on a marble marble slab siab lightly lightly dusted dusted with with flour. fiOUL 2 Cut the the paste paste into strips 8 cm. (3 inches) inches) wide, and cut eut the the Cut cm. (| into bdtonnets,2 btonnets, 2 cm. (i inch) wide. wide. Dip Dip them them into into strips into strips beaten egg white then into crystallised sugar. Brush lightly beaten wilh butter, butter, sprinkle sprinkle with flour, and bake the the baking trays with btonnets in a moderate oven oyen (180'C., (I80e., 350'F., 350F., Gas Mark 4). bdtonnets Bfltom BtollS with vanilla vallilla icing. king. rAroNs BTONS cr,lcfs GLACS A ,\ rn LA vlmns VANILLE Pound Pound 250 g. (9 o2.,lfr OZ., li cups) cups) blanched almonds with 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz., generous generous cup) cup) fine fine sugar sugar in a mortar. mortar. Turn Turn into a basin basm and add 3 3 egg egg whites whites and and f 1teaspoon teaspoon vanilla vanilla extract. ex tract. Blend Blend the and lightly floured ftoured marble marble mixture thoroughly and roll out on a lightly (} nch) thick and about slab until the paste is I 1 cm. <i about 15 15 cm' cm. (6 (6 inches) inches) wide. widc. Coat with with a a layer of vanilla-flavoured vanilla-/lavoured Royal Royal icing (seeICING). (see ICING). Cut into sticks 2 cm. (f, inch) wide' wide. Brush Brush a a sticks 2 icing baking baking tray with melted melted butter, butter, sprinkle sprinkle with flour, ftour, and bake bake the btons in a moderate oven oyen (180'C., (180e., 350oF., 350"F., Gas Mark 4). thebdtons.iqamoderate

as in the recipe for Almond bdtonnets, using 250 g. Almond btonne/s, g. (9 oz., oz., li recipe for oz., generous cup) fine sugar, 200 g. cups) almonds, 250 g. (9 OZ., g.

Chocolate Chocolate bfltonnets. btonnets. sAroNNErs BTONNETS AU AU cHocot,lr CHOCOLAT - Proceed

ll

(7 (7

(l o2.,2 oz.,lf 25 g., tablespoons) vanillaOZ., 11 cups) cups) coc<ia, cocoa, 25 g., (1 OZ., 2 tablespoons) flavoured whites. /lavoured sugar, 3 egg whites. cumin to cUMIN Cumin CumiD bfitonnets. btonnets. sAroNl.IETs S,\TONNETS AU AU CUMIN Add cumin - Add Short pastry paslry 1/ II (see DOUGH), when when rolling it it out. Cut into mto a buttered roll them, on a small sticks, sticks, roll small them, place place on buttered baking tray, oven (200'C., brush with egg, egg, and bake in a moderately hot oyen (200C., 400'F., 400 F., Gas Mark 6). AvELINES - These Aux AVELINES sAroNNETs AUX Hazelnut bfltonnets. BTONNETS Hazelnut btonnets. biltunnets, replacing as Almond way as are the same Almond btonnets, in the same way are made made in and have been almonds haze/nuts which which have been blanched blanched and with hazelnuts almonds with with kirsch. the mixture with dried in the the oyen. oven. Flavour the dried in

BASTE. JUTER -- To braising stock roasting or stock over pour roasting or braising To pour a to keep it moist during cooking. in order to a joint in BATculinary term for tail offish. of fish. The length offish of fish BAT - French culinary is is measured from from eye eye to to tail. BAT. provided with mammal provided with BAT. CHAUVE-SOURIS cn,c,uvE-souRrs Small mammal - Small membranous The meat meat is membranous wings wings which which enable enable it it to to /ly. fly. The esteemcd in China. in certain oriental countries, notably notably in esteemed in BA-T A-CLk"ll have been been invented dessert said to bave said to BA-TA-CLAN - Pastry dessert pastry-cook. It is still by It is still Parisian pastry-cook. celebrated Parisian Lacam, the the celebrated by Lacam, made Paris cake cake shops. shops. in high-c1ass made in high-class Paris almonds in in Pound 250 li cups) freshly blanched (9 oz., g. (9 blanched almonds 250 g. oz.,l| a by one; one; add 9 one by 9 eggs, and add eggs, one Turn into into a a bowl, bowl, aod mortar. Turn a mortar. g. (13 (13 oz., mix 11: cups) Add 375 cups) fine fine sugar flavoured mix weil. well. Add 375 g. oz.,lt sugar ftavoured g. (6 tabJespoons, 125 g. with rum, 125 cup) rum, I dl. scant 1 vanilla, l dl. (6 tablespoons, scant with vanilla, * cup) quite (4 1 cup) (4 oz., until quite and mix mix thoroughly flour, and thoroughly until cup) sieved o2.,1 sieved /lour, smooth. smooth. Pour and bake bake in in a a fluted edges with fluted edges and into a a sballow tin with shallow tin Pour into and coyer cover moderate leave to cool, and to cool, cooked, leave When cooked, moderate oYen. oven. When with icing. vanilla icing. with vanilla
(see SAUCE). BTARDE given to SAUCE). Butter sauce sauce J I (sec to Buller Name givcn BATARDE -- Name

(150'C., 302 ECLAIR.) 302'F.). cooked to crack dcgree F.). (See CLAIR.) degree (lsoac., RoYALrx (hot hors-d'oeuvre). hors-d'oeuwe). BTONS sAroNs ROYAUX bitons (hot Royal Royal btons - Roll rectangles. cut into small rectangles. a piece of of shortcrust paste and cut out out a with Chicken Chicken and partridge each with middle of each partridge forceFill Fill the the middle force(see FORCEMEAT). ends each piece, sealing the ends meat (see FORCEMEAT). Roll each fried parsley. weil. well. Deep-fry in smoking smoking hot fat. Garnish with fried

made from DE JACOB sAroNs DE Cakes made JAcoB bfitom. BTONS Jacob's Jacob's btons. - Cakes (see DOUGH) paste (see Chou Chou pas DOUGH) in the shape of little hollow sticks sugar pastry cream, and coated on top with sugar filled with French French pastry

BAT AVlA -- Variety in summer in season summer hearted lelluce lettuce in season in Variety of of hearted BATAVIA or winter. or winter.
glass or metal conconBATEAUX or metal name for for china, china, glass French name BATEAUX - French tainers They are for serving cold hors-d'uvre. hors-d'euvre. They are usually usually used for serving cold tainers used boat-shaped, name. hence their their name. boat-shaped, hence
88 88

pArs A FRIRE Frying balter batter 1 I rnns -- Fryiog FOR FRYING. FRYING. PT,\ BATTERS FOR (12 OZ., 'Sift 350 g. (12 flour into into a a (Car0me's recipe) cups) flour 350 g. o2.,3 (Carme's 3 cups) - 'Sift (2 oz., g. (2 50 g. oz., in which which 50 warmed water in mix with sligbtly bowl, bowl, mix slightly warmed paste, free from free from a soft melted. Stir to a soft paste, has been been me/ted. Stir to butter has ;\* cup) butter (3 ta tablespoons) and 2 ta a pinch of salt salt and tablespoons lumps. Add a blespoons (3 blespoons) whites. egg whites. in 2 fold in 2 stiffiy and fold well, and stiffiy whisked egg brandy, brandy, stir stir weil, Use at at once.' once.' Use (9 oz., I g. (9 flour, 1 cups) sifted sifted flour, 250 g. oz.,2f Mix 250 Frying batter lltr- Mix Frying 2! cups) (| pint, pint, seant pint, t 2 dl. dl. (t scant cup) beer, beer, 2 l] dl. dl. (i oil, If tablespoon tablespoon oil, 3 cup) $ pint, into a a smooth smooth brandy into a tablespoon tablespoon brandy and a warm water water and cup) cup) warm in using, fold fold in pinch of fine salt. Just before using, a pinch of fine salt. Just adding a batter, batter, adding whites. egg whites. whisked egg 2 2 stiffiy stiffiy whisked Mix (for fruit glazed in the oven)oven) - Mix fruit fritters fritters glazed in the batter (for Frying baller Frying g. 250 g. previous recipe, recipe, using using 250 in the as dcscribed described in the previous the batter as the batter (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) (9 OZ., 2 tablespoons flour, 2 tablespoons (3 cups) sifted sifted flour, o2.,2| (9 2! cups) (+ pint, (+ pint, pint, scant pint, t] cup) scant 2 dl. dl. (t cup) beer, beer, 2 1+ dl. dl. (i melted butter, butter, 1+ melted pinch of a pinch of I tablespoon brandy, a egg, 1 tablespoon brandy, cup) water, one one whole whole egg, cup) water, pinch of and a a pinch of salt. salt. sugar sugar and

formal occasion and Chabot. Phot. /\rico!as) Nicolas) Buffet set set out out ror for a a formaI occasion(Potel Chabot. Phof. Buffe! (Potet wu!

CREAM BAVARIAN BA V ARIAN CREAM

After After mixing, mixing, keep in a warm place to ferment. Just before using, whisk the batter. glaze fruit fritters, drain after frying, place on a To glaze a metal icing sugar, sprinkled with with icing sheet which which has has been been lightly lightly sprinkled sheet oyen. and set in a hot oven. Frnng The batter should Fryiog batter (for vegetable fritters) - The be prepared at least an hour before use. g. (9 oz., 2i cups) sifted flour with 4 tablespoons Mix 250 g. oz.,2f (5 tablespoons) tablespoons) melted butter, 2 whole eggs, a good pinch of a batter. salt, and enough water to make not too thick a Frnng Frying batter (for (for meat and fisb fish fritters) - Put 250 g. (9 oz., 2i cups) sifted flour into a a bowl. bowl. Make a 2| a weil well in in the centre centre (5 tablespoons) oil or melted and put into it 4 tablespoons (5 butter, 4 dl. (* (- pint, scant 2 cups) slightly butter,4 slightly warmed water, and a good pinch of salt. wood en spoon. spoon. well with a wooden salt. Mix weil Just before using, fold in 4 stiffiy stiffy whisked egg whites. (12o2.,3 Frying batter (i Frying ( la provengate) provenale) 'Mix 350 g. (l20z., 3 cups) -'Mix (5 tablespoons) Aix yolks,4 egg yolks, 4 tablespoons sieved flour, 2 egg tablespoons (5 oil, and enough enough cold water to make make a soft paste. Add a small pinch of salt, fold in 2 2 stiffiy salt, and and fold stifry whisked egg egg whites. Use (Car6me's recipe). at once.' (Carme's Batters (sweet) - See DOUGH.
BA VAROIS BAvARoIs - Cold sweet once known Traiti in his his Trait fromage bavarois, the name name Carme Carme gives it in fromage des entremets de douceur. given to it by a The name bavarois a French chef who bavarois was given practised practised his art in a stately stately home in Bavaria. This not be confused This dish, consistency, should be confused dish, of solid should not solid consistency, liquid preparation known as the with the liquid known as the bavaroise (q.v.), which used to be called crme crDme bavaroise, and, according to which used culinary historians, was invented in Bavaria towards the end culinary historians, of the seventeenth century. quite differently differently The bavarois was prepared quite bavarois in in past days days was present-day methods; the mixture mixture was bound only with from pre,sent-day clarified some modern clarified isinglass, not with with egg yolks, as used in sorne reClpes. recipes.

hours in the iced water, water, COyer chill for 2 hours with white paper, and chili cover with refrigerator, or on crushed ice. refrigerator, it wipe it hbt water, wipe dip the mould in hot the bavarois, dipthe To loosen tlie dry, and turn turn into a dish. flayoured wlth wrth for bavarois used for bavarois flavoured The same recipe may be used (anisette, chocolate, tea, brandies coffee, chocolate, brandies and various liqueurs (anisette,

BA V ARIAN CREAM. BAVARIAN CREAM. as as

Armagnac, Calvados, fine Champagne Champagne brandy, Calvados, Curaao, Curagao, fine Armagnac, kirsch, kummel, kummel; rum, etc.), lemon, tangerine, orange, praline of burnt almond, hazelnuts, hazelnuts, etc. A LA r.l CVENOLEcfvrNors BAvARoIs cream i la la cvenole. c6venole. BAVAROIS Bavarian cre am Fill with a a ueam. FiII Bavarian cream. Coat a mould with layer of with a layer of Basic Bavarian glacds, pur6e of marrons glacs, mixture of a pure of marrons mixture of this this cream cream and and a refrigerator. flavoured with kirsch. Chill in the refrigerator. decorate with and decorate Turn'out a dish, dish, and Turn . out the the bavarois bavarois onto onto a (see CREAMS). with marrons Surround with Chantilly cream CREAMS). Surround Chantilly cream (see glacis. glacs. Coat a A LA r,c, CROLE cRforn -- Coa Bavarian cream BAVARoIS Bavarian VAROIS ta A la crole. cr6ole. BA of alternate layers of with sweet mould with sweet almond oil and fill it with alternate rum-flavoured and pineapple-flavoured Basic Basic Bavarian rum-flavoured and pineapple-flavoured cream) mixed mixed with with a salpicon (q.v.) ofbananas cream, of bananas steeped in rum. (see Turn out with Chantilly cream (see out onto onto a a dish, dish, decorate decorate with Chantilly cream Turn and sprinkle sprinkle with a pastry-bag, and CREAMS) piped through through a blanched, shredded pistachio nuts. blanched, A LA l.l NORMANDE NoRMANDE Bavarian cream i la normande. BA slvARots Bavarian VAROIS Line a a mould mould with with a layer of of Calvados-flavoured Calvados-flavoured Basic Line a layer (see SAUCE) sauce (see cream, fill fill with with thick thick Apple Apple sauce Bavarian cream, gelatine which has been dissolved in water. whisked with gelatine water. whisked Turn out with apple apple quarters out on on a a dish dish and and surround Turn surround with peeled, cooked Top with whipped cooked in syrup, and weil wbll drained. Top peeled, cream.

Bavarian cream, cream, after after Carme Carme Bavarian

Bavarian cream cream mould

The following inc\ude include severa] several of Carme's Car0me's recipes. g. VAROIS - Blend 500 g. Basic Bavarian BAvARoIS A LA ra CRME cniwBavarian cream. BA (18 oz., yolks in (18 in a a small small oz., 2! 2f cups) 16 egg egg yolks cups) fine fine sugar sugar and and 16 pinch of salt. pan over low sauce When the saucepan salt. When low heat, heat, adding a a pinch (If; pints, mixture quite smooth mixture is I litre litre (l~ is quite with ] moisten with smooth moisten quart) milk which has generous quart) boiled and and has been been previously boiled (l oz.) gelatine g. (1 gelatine which flavoured with a vanilla bean. Add 25 g. has has been been dissolved until the the Keep stirring dissolved in in cold cold water. water. Keep stirring until mixture is not boil. is thick do not thick enough to coat coat the the spoon; spoon; do enough to Transfer Transfer to a a bowl and leave to cool, frequently fanning it to help the process. process. (lf pints, As soon as the mixture in 1 I litre (I~ mixture begins to set, set, fold in (4 oz., g. (4 generous quart) stiffiy whipped cream ~ cup) oz.,1",rp) cream and and 100 g. finesugar. . fine sugar. Pour the bavarois into a mould which has been rinsed with

(CarGme). FROMAGE parfait amour FRoMAGE amour (Carme). Bavarian Bavarian cream cream au au parfait peel of 'Shred half a half the the peel of a - 'Shred shredded lemon, lemon very finely. Boil 2 cups milk, add the the shredded (8 oz., g. (8 I cup) Leave to cup) sugar. sugar. Leave to 6 and 225 225 g. oz., 1 6 crushed crushed cloves cloves and infuse for an and strain through a a muslin cloth cloth into a infuse an hour, hour, and a (l oz.) g. (1 and clarified clarified isinbasin. basin. Add Add 25 25 g. oz.) slightly slightly warmed and glass, and basin glass, and a a few few drops drops of of cochineal cochineal essence. Put Put the the basin a bowl As soon as as the the mixture mixture begins to to set, fold into a bowl of of ice. As set, fold in whipped cream.' in (Car0me). FROMAGE pistachio nuts FRoMAGE Bavarian Bavarian cream cream witb with pistachio nuts (Carme). 'Shell about pisBAVARoIS AUX 100 choice choice pisBAVAROIS AItx NOIX NoD( VERTES vERTEs -- 'Shell about 100 pound them in a a mortar, mortar, and and moisten moisten with with a a tachio tachio nuts, nuts, pound them in le water from time litt little to prevent them them turning oily. oily. time to to time to (8 oz., g. (8 I cup) cream. Put Dissolve 225 225 g. cup) sugar in in 2 2 cups cups cream. Put the the oz., 1 pounded nuts nuts into a bowl, and add add the cream, a a little little at at a a into a bowl, and the cream, a time, Leave for for an an hour, hour, and and strain through a well. Leave time, stirring weiL strain through fine fine sieve. sieve. (l oz.) g. (1 Add warm clarified clarified isinglass isinglass which Add 25 25 g. oz.) slightly slightly warm mixture into into a has has been been dissolved in a a !ittle little water. water. Pour Pour the the mixture a dissolved in place on ice mould shed ice mould or a medium-sized terrine, terrine, and and place crushed or a on cru (with a for 15 minutes. a large large silver if posfor 15 minutes. Stir silver spoon, spoon, if well, (with Stir weil, sible) As soon as it it begins sible) and and stir again from from time to to time. time. As soon as stir again to a smooth-flowing is mixture is to set, all the until a smooth-flowing mixture set, stir stir ail the time time until achieved. achieved. Add a httle little at at a a time, until the time, until Add whipped whipped cream, cream, a the bavarois bavarois has has a a velvety texture. Keep on on crushed Keep crushed ice ice for for an an hour hour and before turning turning and a a half before out out onto onto a a dish. dish.
pARFArr AMOUR AMoUR BAVAROIS AU PARFAIT BAvARors AU

89
Duck a/sacienm' (Phol. ico/as) (Phot. N Drtck /' Nicolas) d I'alsacienne

BAVARIAN CREAM BA VARIAN CREAM

Bavarian cream cream made made with fruit fruit (Robert Carrier) Carrier) Bavarian

90

BAYONNE BAYONNE
Bavarian Bavarian cream cream aux roses roses (Car0me). (Carme). FRoMAGE FROMAGE BAVARoIS BA VAROIS RosBs ROSES - 'Strip the the petals petaIs ofl off about 30 freshly freshly picked with a pinch of roses, and put put them, them,with of cochineal grains, into roses, and 225 g. g. (8 (8 oz., oz., I 1 cup) cup) clarified clarified boiling boiling sugar sugar syrup. Cover, Coyer, and 225 add 25 when it it has has become become just just warm, add 25 g. g. (l (l oz.) isinglass. isinglass. when Strain the the mixture mixture through muslin into a bowl, and when it Strain begins to set, fold in whipped cream.' begins Bavarian fruit cream. BAVARoIs BAVAROIS ALrx AUX FRUITS - Put into a Bavarian pint,2f, bowl 5 dl. (scant bowl5 (scant pint, pint, 2f 2i cups) fruit fruit pur6e, pure, 5 dl. (scant pint, 2i (l oz.) cups) cups) heavy heavy (30") (30) syrup, syrllp, thejuice thejuice of of31emons, 25 g. (l and25 3 lemons, and gelatine gelatine which which has has been been dissolved dissolved in a little water water and strained through muslin. through (scant pint, pint, 2i 2l cups) cups) whipped weIl, and add I + litre (scant Blend well, cream. Pour Pour into a mould mould which has been coated with sweet cream. rinsed in ice water) and and leave to set for about almond oil (or rinsed 1+ hours. l| (CarOme). FROMAGE BAvAFRoMAcE BAVAMocha coffee Bavarian cream (Carme). ROIS AU cnr6 CAF Mor,c, MOKA1+ cups) mocha coffee oz.,l| Rors - 'Put 175 g. (6 oz., a small a moderate fire, fire, heat on on a small saucepan, and heat beans into a stirring constantly constantly until until they acquire a a reddish-yellow reddish-yellow they acquire stirring is complete as as the as soon the beans become colour. Roasting is soon as oily. 'Drop them into a 3 cups boiling milk, a basin containing containing 3 coyer, and leave until the milk is just warm. Strain through through cover, (l g. (l a 225 g. (8 oz., 25 g. and 25 a fine clotho I cup) sieved sugar and cloth. Add Add225 oz., 1 oz.) isinglass. Blend te smooth, and strain again. quite again. Blend until qui 'When the mixture and cream, and mixture begins to set, set, add whipped cream, pour into a fully set.' set.' a mould. mould. Place on on crushed ice until fully Strawberry Rub Aux FRAISES FRAISES -- Rub BAvARoIs AUX cresm. BAVAROIS Strawberry Bavarian cream. 2+ pulp through cup) strawberry through 2| dl. dl. (scant + strawberry pulp ] pint, generous cup) a generous cup) heavy cup) heavy a fine sieve, 2| dl. (scant + sieve, and add 2+ I pint, generous oz.) gelatine syrup (30), juice of (1o2.) gelatine (30"), the juice g. (! 15 g. and 15 lemon, and of a a lemon, which water and and strained strained which has in a a little little water has been been dissolved dissolved in through (scant ! pint, generous generous cup) cup) muslin. Add Add 2! 2+ dl. dl. (scant through muslin. I pint, whipped cream cream to the the mixture. Pour in a a rereice, or or in into a chill on crushed ice, and chilI Pour into a mould mould and on crushed frigerator. large with large a dish dish and and surround surround with frigerator. Tum Turn out onto a out onto hulled fine sugar. with fine sugar. hulled strawberries, sprinkled with strawberries, sprinkled Apricot, pear, raspberry and other pineapple, pear, peach, pineapple, raspberry and other Apricot, peach, fruit prepared in way. in the the same same way. fruit bavarois bavaror can can be be prepared Striped BAVARoIS vanilla Bavarian Bavarian cream. cream. BAVAROIS and vanilla Striped chocolate chocolate and RUBAN (9 oz., g. (9 250 g. oz., nr A LA LA VANILLE VANILLE -- Sift Sift 250 nun.q.N6 AU AU CHOCOLAT cnoeoI-.a.r ET generous yolks and and egg yolks generous cup) 8 egg add 8 into a fin'e sugar a saucepan, saucepan, add cup) fine sugar into a is mixture is pinch of heat until until the the mixture very low low heat a pinch of salt. over very salt. Stir Stir over perfectly (scant pint, pint, 2* 2l cups) cups) milk milk perfectly blended. Boil 5 5 dl. dl. (scant blended. Boil separately, other to the the other Add slowly slowly to vanilla bean. bean. Add sefarately, add add 1 I vanilIa mixture, en th thti When low heat. heat. Wh mixture, and and stir constantly over over low stir constantly ta resul ting custard tly to remove aspoon, to coa coat spoon, remove resulting custard thickens thickens sufficien sufficiently from from the the heat. heat. Strain (2 oz., g. (2 parts. Add 50 g. oz., in two Add 50 and divide divide in two parts. custard and Strain the the custard 2 part, and in and blend blend in to one one part, chocolate to 2 squares) melted chocolate squares) melted whipped whipped cream cream Blend whipped it begins to set. set. Blend cream when when it begins to whipped cream similarly mixture. into the remaining custard custard mixture. the remaining similarly into Rinse Id in almond with sweet a mou in ice ice water, water, or or brush brush with sweet almond Rinse a mould oil. mixtures, taking taking Fill with with alternate alternate layers layers of of the the two two mixtures, oil. Fill care preceding one has set layer until one has set care not not to add a a new new layer until the the preceding to add properly. shed ice, refrigeraice, or properly. Place in the the refrigeracrushed Place the mould on or in on cru the mould tor, To loosen loosen the thebavarois, bavarois, and leave leave to 1| to to 2 2 hours. hours. To tor, and to set set 1+ dip it, and and tum bavarois mould in in warm water, dry dry it, turnthe the bavarois dip the the mould warm water, into glass dish. into a a glass dish. Striped (various flavours). BAvARoIS flavous). BAVAROIS cream (various Striped Bavarian Bavarian cream RUBANS pARFUMs DIVERS asdescribed in the the Proceed as described in DIvERs -- Proceed nuslNfs AUX AUx PARFUMS previous previous recipe. cream can can be bemade made Variegated Bavarian Bavarian cream recipe. Variegated by mixture and strawberry by using alternate layers layers of of vanilla vanilla and strawberry mixture using alternate (or (or any apriandapricoffee, vanilla vanillaand any other red fruit), fruit), vanilla vanilla and and coffee, other red cot, vanilla and pistachio nuts, etc. cot, vanilla and pistachio nuts, etc. Vanilla (Car0me). FROMAGE A s.avA.nols FRoMAGEBAVAROIS cream (Carme). Vanilla Bavarian Bavarian cream LA VANILLE - Add a andbring bring cups cream creamand to 33cups vanilla bean bean to LA vANTLLE - Add a vanilla

Aux AUX

cream Bavarian cream Striped Bavarian Striped

cream by by oneonereduce the the cream heat and and reduce the heat Lower the the boil. boil. Lower to to the (l oz.) g. (1 and 25 25 g. oz.) (8 oz., g. (8 cup) sieved sieved sugar sugar and I cup) 225 g. oz., 1 third. Add 225 third. Add muslin into into aa through muslin isinglass. Blend Blend thoroughly, thoroughly, strain strain through isinglass. mixture begins begins place on ice. When When the the mixture on crushed crushed ice. basin, and place basin, and cream. fold in in whipped whipped cream. to to set, set, fold
ways prepared in in several several ways beverage prepared BA VAROISE -- Pleasant Pleasant beverage BAVAROISE milk, etc. etc. from from tea, tea, syrup, syrup, milk, Bavarian part of century several several Bavarian eighteenth century the eighteenth In In the ofthe the early early part tea habit of of taking taking tea were in in the the habit in Paris Paris were princes princes sojouming sojourning in des Fosss-Saint-GennainFoss6s-Saint-Germainrue des the Caf together together at Procope, rue atthe Cafi Procope, but they they (today rue I'Ancienne-Com6die): but des-Prs des-Pr6s (today rue de de l'Ancienne-Comdie): decancrystal decanfrom crystal them from to them insisted be served served to it should insisted that that it ihould be rather syrup rather with capillary capillary syrup ters, preferred it it sweetened sweetened with and preferred ters, and given tb new to the the new was given than name bavaroise bavaroise was Thence the the name than sugar. sugar. Tbence by replacing replacing it, simply simply by beverage. to serve serve it, caf6s began began to Other cafs beverage. Other the to the cooked to the clarified sugar sugar cooked with clarified the capillary capillary syrup syrup with milk. consistency adding milk. and adding consistency of of aa syrup, syrup, and very (+ pint, pint, scant cup) very scantcup) Bavaroise 2 dl. dl.(t Bavaroise 1 I -- Mix Mix together together 2 syrup sugar syrup I tablespoon strong fine sugar, sugar, 1 tablespoon sugar strong tea, tea, 1 I tablespoon tablespoon fine mixture yolk. Whisk the mixture until the (104"C., 220F.) Whisk until (l04C., 220'F.) and and an an egg egg yolk. teaspoons milk and and55 teaspoons becomes boiled nilk little boiled Add aa little becomes frothY. frothy. Add kirsch. kirsch. liqueur. otherliqueur. orany anyother Flavourings maraschino, or Flavourings can can be be rum, rum, maraschino, (4oz., g.(4 cup) yolks with oz.,t with 125 125g. i cup) Bavaroise II -- Whisk Whisk 44 egg egg yolks Bavaroise II (3tablespoons, scant**cup) fine dl. (3 tablespoons,scant Add itdl. fine sugar sugar until until thick. thick. Add "rrp) generous cup) pint,generous cup) (scant1 syrup 220F.), 2i dl. (104'C.,220F.),2| dl. (scant syrup (104C., I pint, freshly milk. boiling milk. amount boiling and the the same same amount freshly made made hot hot tea, tea, and (6 dl. (.6 Add 1I dl. Whisk frothy. Add very frothy. is very mixture is Whisk until until the the mixture tablespoons, Calvados. rum, kirsch kirsch or orCalvados. cup) rum, scant1 tablespoons, seant +cup) lemon The on with orange, flavoured with orange,lem also be befiavoured can also The bavaroise bavaroisecan or milk. inboiling boiling milk. infused in first be beinfused should first vanilla, which whichshould orvanilla,

BA VAROISE AUX expression French slang slang expression CHOUX -- French ALIX CHOUX BAVAROISE describing andorgeat. orgeat. absinth and mixture of ofabsinth describing aamixture BAY. inareaatraditional leavesare traditional inBayleaves rnunrER-sAUcE - - Bay BAY. LAURIER-SAUCE gredient (q.v.).The bay Theberries berriesof ofthe thebay gredient of bouquet-garni(q.v.). ofthe the bouquet~garni tree called herbscalled aromatic herbs of aromatic distillation of in aa distillation tree are are used usedin Fioravanti. Fioravanti. BA YONNE - - Town wherethe theegg egg inthe Basses-Pyr6n6eswhere Town in theBasses-Pyrnes BAYONNE and inbeeninissaid tohave have been saidto mayonnaise is calledmayonnaise and oil sauce called oil sauce vented. are,in in whichare, hamswhich forBayonne Bayonne hams known for It is isalso alsoknown vented. It fact, Orthez. town,Orthez. inaaneighbouring neighbouring town, fact, made madein The improve Itisisalso alsoused usedto toimprove raw.It isusually usually eaten eatenraw. The ham ham is the garnish asaagamish cookedas andcooked andsauces, sauces,and ragoittsand flavourof ofragots theflavour for ways. prepared in invarious various ways. foreggs eggsprepared Bayonne produceexcellent region produce excellent neighbouring region andthe theneighbouring Bayonne and local (amixture (q.v.)(a cabbage, garbures(q.v.) mixture of ofcabbage, aregarbures Thereare localdishes. dishes.There bacon, Pyr6n6es inthe thePyrnes popularin goosefat ryebread, bread,popular fatand andrye bacon,goose 91 9l

BEAN BEAN
district), preserved preserved goose, goose, preserved preserved pork, pork, locally locally caJIed called district), methode. Ail All the the charcuterie charcaterieof of the theBayonne Bayonne region regionis good, methode. is good, especially the (blood) puddings. the black black (blood) puddings. especially Among the the sweets, pAtd de sweets, pt (a citron decdrat cidrat (a preserve), is citron preserve), is Among delicious, and and Bayonne Bayonne chocolate chocolate is is noted. noted. delicious,
BEAN. HARICOT HARrcor --A pulse ofwhich of which there there are are many many varieties, varieties, BEAN. A pulse some edible, edible, others others ornamental. ornamental. Among Among edible edible varieties virieties are are sorne beans, which which grow grow to glimbing beans, to aa height height of (6 to of 2 2 to to 3 3 m. m. (6 to 10 l0 c1imbing feet), and and are are trained trained on poles. The on bean bean poles. The dwarf dwarf varieties varieties feet), need no no support. support. In In most most varieties varieties the pod is the pod is tender tender and and need edible when young. when young. edible Edible bean pods falI bean pods fall under under the general heading the general heading of green of green Edible beans. In In sorne some varieties varieties the pod remains the pod remains tender tender and anO good go6a to to beans. eat even even when when fully fully grown, grown, but but in in the the case case of parchmentof parchmenteat skinned beans, beans, it it becomes becomes tough tough and and leathery. leathery. skinned

BROAD BEANS BEANS (U.S. (U.S.Shell plant Shellbeans). beans). FVES rivrs -- Anoual Annual plant BROAD of the the Leguminosae Leguminosae family, family,cultivated cultivated for for its itsseeds, seeds,which which of as food serveas food for for man man and and for for animais. animals. The The broad broad bean, bean, of of serve which the Windsor is the Windsor is best best known, known, is is the the common common bean bean of which of Europe. Other Other well-known well-known broad broad beans beans are are the the lima lima bean, bean, Europe. species originating in South originating in South America America and andcultivated cultivated exaa species extensively in in California; California; the the soya soya bean of China, China, Japan bean of tensively Japan and and India, now now very very widely widely cultivated. cultivated.Sorne Some beans, beans, such such as as the the India, horse bean beanof Scotland and and the pea ofsouthern thecow cow pea of southern U.S.A. U.S.A. are are horse ofScotland chiefly used used for for forage. forage. chiefly The fresh fresh broad broad beans beans that that are are commonly commonly used used in in Europe The Europe do not not have have a a very very high high food food value. value. Dried Drid beans, beans, on on the the other other do hand, are are rich rich in in amino amino acids acids and potassium salts; and potassium salts; they they also also hand, contain large quantities of large quantities of nitrogenous nitrogenous substances substances and and contain Vitamins Band B and E. Their nutritive E. Their nutritive value greater value is is therefore therefore greater Vitamins than fresh fresh beans. beans. However, However, eaten eaten in in excess excess they they can can cause cause than (favism). serious blood blood disorders disorders (favism). serious (4 oz.) g. (4 100 g. oz.) unpodded yield approximately unpodded beans beans yield approximately 50 g. 50 g. 100 (2 oz.) oz.) comestible comestible beans. beans. (2 To cook cook fresh broad beans. beans. SheU Shell the the beans. beans. Remove Remove the the To fresh broad tough outer outer skin skin and and cook cook in in boiling boiling salted salted water water with with a a tough bunch of of savory. savory. Drain, Drain, and proceed according and proceed according to bunch to the the selected recipe. recipe. selected Fresh broad broad beans beam I l'anglaise. l'anglaise. FvES rAvns FRACHES rneicrrs A L'ANGLAISE r'ANcLArsE Fresh Cook the the beans beans as as indicated indicated above, above, but leave leave in in their their skins. skins. - Cook Drain, and and serve serve with with fresh fresh butter. butter. Drain, Fresh broad broad beans beans in in bUtter. birtter. FvES rtvrs FRAcHES rnalcrrts AU Fresh AU BEURRE BEURRE as for for Peas Peas in (see PEAS), and in butter (see and add add chopped Proceed as chopped savory. savory. proceed as in cream. cream. FvES rtvns A LA cRME Broad beans in cniun -- Proceed as for (see PEAS). Moisten with thick fresh Peas in in butter (see Peas fresh cream, and simmer for for a a minute minute or two. and Broad beans beam la la croque-au-sel. FvES rirvx A LA r.l CROQUE-AUBroad cnoeus-luFresh broad spr - Fresh beans served raw as served raw as an an hors-d'uvre. SEL broad beans hors-d'euvre. guests shell The guests shell the the beans themselves, seasoning The beans themselves, seasoning them with coarse salt. salt. This This hors-d'uvre hors-d'euvre is is popular all all over over the with coarse of France. south of Fresh beans la la franaise. frangaise. FVES rilvss FRACHES rndcrns A Fresh broad beaos LA r,c, FRAN9ATSE - Shell and skin the beans, and cook as for peas FRANAISE Peas d lafrangaise (see of savory. lafranaise (see PEAS), together with a bunch of savory. Pur6e Pure of fresh broad beam beans for garnishing. runfo puRE ne DE FtvBs FVES rn llcffis - Proceed (see FRACHES Proceed as as for for Purie Pure of of fresh fresh garden peas peas (see PEAS). Puree Pure of bean soq soup - See SOUPS AND BROTHS. BROTHS. Fresh broad bearn beans with ssvory. savory. riivrs FvES rn.licrcs FRACHES A LA senSARRrErfi RIETTE - Shell Shell and skin the beans, beans, and cook in boiling salted salted water water with with a bunch bunch of of savory. Drain, Drain, return return them them to the the pan, pan, and and shake shake over over heat heat for for a few few seconds to get rid of of any any moismoisture ture left. left. Add Add fresh butter butter cut into small pieces. pieces. Mix carecarefully fully so as not to damage damage the the beans. beans.

rl

rl

FIELD Buropean broad FIELD BEANS. BEANS. r'Evrnorss FVEROLES -European broad bean, bean, smaller smaller than th an the the ordinary ordinary kind, kind, cooked cooked in in the the same same way. way. These These beans beans usually usually remain remain white. white. Field Field bean bean flour flour is is sometimes sometimes added added to to wheaten wheaten flour flour for for the the manufacture manufacture of of bread. bread.

k
Varieties Varietiesofbeans of beans

FLAGEOLET FLAGEOLET BEANS. BEANS. HARrcors HARICOTS FLAGEoLETs FLAGEOLETS - Used Used mainly mainly as as a a garnish garnish (whether (whether fresh fresh or or dried) dried) for for meat meat dishes. dishes. They They are are excellent excellent with with cuts cuts of of mutton mutton or or lamb. lamb, and and make make delicately delicately flavoured flavoured pur6es. pures. They They are are not not common common in in U.S.A. U.S.A. Fresh Fresh flageolets. flageolets. HARJcors HARICOTS FLAGEoLETs FLAGEOLETS FRArs FRAIS - Small Smal1 beans beans of of a a greenish greenish colour. colour ..They They are are cooked cooked in in the the same same way way as as Fresh Fresh white white haricot'beans haricotbeans (see (see below). below). All Ali recipes recipes for for haricot haricot beans beans are are suitable suitable for for flageolets. flageolets.

FRENCH FRENCH BEANS BEANS (U.S. (U.S. String String beans). beans). HARrcors HARICOTS vsRrs VERTS -A A delicately should be be freshly freshly delicately flavoured flavoured vegetable, vegetable, which which should picked, when they they only only need need to to be be topped topped and and tailed..With tailed .. With picked, when older olderbeans, beans, it itis isnecessary necessary to to cut cut away away the the stringy stringy edges. edges.
92 92

BEANS. BEANS, RED RED

Wash Wash the the beans beans in in cold cold water, water, drain, drain, and and put put them them in in a a large saucepan full full of of boiling boiling salted salted water water (l| (lt teaspoons teaspoons large saucepan salt per per litre, litre, scant scant quart, quart, generous generous quart quart water). water). Leave Leave the the salt

saucepan uncovered uncovered and and cook cook over over a a high high flame. frame. The beans beans saucepan are are ready ready when when they they are are tender tender but but still firm firm in in texture. texture. Do Do not overcook. overcook. Drain Drain thoroughly. thoroughly. not Ifthe If the beans beans are are to to be be kept kept for for later later use, use, or or are are to to be be dressed with oil oil and and vinegar vinegar as as a salad, salad, they they should should be be put put in in a a colancolanwith der der under under running running water. water. If If they they are to to be be served at once in in butter, cream crearn or some sorne other other way, they they should not be be cooled butter, after being being boiled, but but should be be well weil drained. drained. after French bearc beans A I'anglaise. l'anglaise. HARIcors HARICOTS vERTs VERTS A t'lNcrllss L'ANGLAISE French - Boil Boil the the beans beans in salted water, drain, and dry in a cloth. c1oth. butter. Serve with fresh butter. beans i la la bonne bonne femme. femme. HARIcors HARICOTS vrnrs VERTS A rl LA French beans BONNE FEMME FEMME - Boil the beans in salted salted water until they are BoNNE three-parts cooked. Drain, Drain, and dry in a cloth. cloth. three-parts Blanch about about 200 g. (6 oz.) lean bacon, and cut into small Blanch butter. Add 500 g. (l (1 lb.) of the nearly cooked dice. Fry in butter. beans, moisten with thickened brown veal stock, cover coyer the beans, completely pan, pan, and and simmer simmer slowly slowly until until the the beans beans are are completely cooked. httle butter and sprinkle sprinkle with When ready to serve, add a little chopped parsley. HARIcors vERTs VERTS AU BEURRE beans in brown brown butter. HARICOTS French beare NOISETTE - Boil the beans in salted water as indicated above. NoIsETTE (l oz., clotho Brown 25 g. (1 2 tablespoons) oz.,2tablespoons) Drain, and dry in a cloth. well a pan, add the beans, season, season, and toss them weil butter in a untiJ they have absorbed the butter. Sprinkle Sprinkle with chopped until serving. parsley before serving. HARtcors vERTs d'h6tel. HARICOTS VERTS French beans in butter i la matre maitre d'htel. AU rl LA MATRE ' HTEL AU BEURRE BEURRE i, Boil the as indirulirnr D o'H6rsr the beans as - Boil pan over a pan cated above, and and drain drain thoroughly thoroughly. . Toss them in a all moisture left in heat for for a a few few moments to to ensure that that ail them has evaporated. pieces 90 to Season, and small pieces and add add butter cut into very small - 90 per butter 100 g. bu Uer to 500 g. t I cu p bu tter per cup g. beans (3 to 4 oz., scan scant butter all y are ail 1 lb. they I lb. beans). Mix the so that the the butter so the beans in the evenly coated coated.. Sprinkle with parsley before serving. French A LA m CRME nlruco'rs VERTS vERTs cntlr,c -French beans beans in in cream cream I. I. HARlCOTS Boil are three-parts until they water until Boil the the beans beans in in salted they are salted water cooked. Drain, and dry in a and coyer cover a clotho cloth. Toss Toss in melted butter, and with has been with fresh fresh thick thick cream. cream. Simmer Simmer untiJ until the the sauce sauce has reduced reduced to Season. its original volume. volume. Season. to half its French vERTs A LA u CRME Frenci beans II. HARICOTS rHmcom VERTS cntuE -beam in in cream cream n. Follow preceding recipe, in a recipe, but the beans beans in a Follow the the preceding but simmer simmer the (see SAUCE) rather sauce (see instead of of cream. cream. rather thin thin Bchamel Bichamel sauce SAUCE) instead Add butter just before serving. serving. French prepared in in this way and and sprinkled with French beans beans prepared this way sprinkled with chopped verts d la la tourangelle. tourangelle. called haricots haricots verts chopped parsley are are called Dried for a a HARIcoN VERTS vERTs SECS sEcs -- Soak Soak for Dried French French beans. beans. HARICOTS long French beans. beans. fresh French like fresh and cook cook like long time time in in cold cold water water and French FRANQAISE vERTs A LA LA FRANAISE French beans i la la franaise. frangaise. HARICOTS n^lRlcors VERTS (l inch) . (1 Proceed pieces about inch) long. long. Proceed about 3 3 cm cm. Slice the the beans beans in in pieces - Slice as for Peas franaise (see . (see PEAS) PEAS). asfor Peas lafrangaise d la French vERTs AU AU GRATIN GRATIN -gratin. HARICOTS HARIcors VERTS beans au au gratin. French beans Proceed in an an beans in Put the the beans ueatn. Put as for beans in in cream. Proceed as for French French beans ovenware grated cheese. melted butter butter over over cheese. Pour Pour melted dish with with grated ovenware dish them grated cheese. cheese. Brown Brown slowly slowly more grated and sprinkle with more them and sprinkle with in in the the oyen. oven. French vERTs AU AU JUS rus -- Boil Boil the the gravy. HARICOTS HARIcors VERTS beans in French beans in gravy. beans cooked. are three-parts three-parts cooked. until they in salted water until they are beans in salted water Drain, Moisten with with in butter. butter. Moisten slowly in Drain, and and stew them slowly stew them thickened thickened brown brown stock. stock. French A LA rl vsnrs HARIcors VERTS lyonnaise. HARICOTS la lyonnaise. i la beans French beans LYONNAlSE (l lb.) French water. g. (lIb.) beans in in salted salted water. French beans Boil 500 500 g. LyoNNArsE -- Boil Drain drv in in a cloth. and dry a clotho Drain and

Brown Brown 100 100 g. g. (a (4 oz., bZ., 1 1 cup) chopped chopped onions on ions in in butter butter and and add add the the beans. beans. Saut6 Saut all ail together; together; the beans beans should be be very very slightly browned. browned. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with chopped parsley parsley and and add add a a little little vinegar. vinegar. peNlcnfs - Boil Mixed Mixed beans. beans. HARIcors HARICOTS vERTs VERTS PANACHS Boil separately, separately, in in salted salted water, equal quantities quantities of of French beans beans and small fresh fresh kidney kidney beans beans (flageolets). (flageolets). Drain Drain thoroughly. thoroughly. Blend Blend the the two two in in butter or cream. cream. French beare beans la la normande. normande. HARIcors HARICOTS vERTs VERTS A m LA NonNORMANDE MANDE - Proceed Proceed as as for for French French beans in in crearn. cream. After After the beans beans are are cooked, blend in yolks yolks ofeggs. of eggs. Just Just before before serving serving add butter.

French bean saI salad French ad

DE HARICOTS HARrcors VERTS vERTs -- Boil Boil the the French bean salad. SALADE DE French bean saI ad. SALADE a cloth. with Drain and and dry in in a cloth. Serve Serve with in salted salted water. Drain beans in a French dressing. a while the beans are are still the beans still hot, The salad can be seasoned while salad can The be seasoned with thinly chopped mixed mixed herbs herbs or or with flavoured with with finely finely chopped flavoured sliced onion onion rings. sliced HARIcors VERTS vERTs SAUTS saurfs AU eu in butter. butter. HARICOTS Fr.ench beans sauted saut6ed in Ft;ench and dry dry in in a a in salted BEURRE the beans beans in salted water. Drain and BEURRE - Boil the browning in a a heavy iron pan in in butter, butter, slightly slightly browning cloth. Saut Saut6 in cloth. parsley. chopped parsley. with chopped the beans. beans. Sprinkle Sprinkle with the provengale. HARICOTS ru'nrcors VERTS vERTs beqns sauted saut6ed la la provenale. French beans French pnovENgALE - Proceed beans as for for French French beans A LA Proceed as slurft L,c, PROVENALE SAUTS butter. Just Just before before for the sautied in oil for the butter. in butter, butter, substituting substituting oil sauted parsley. grated garlicand garlic and chopped chopped parsley. a little little grated add a serving, add serving, PRESERVATION OF OF See PRESERVATION bears - See French beans Preserved French Preserved FOODS. FOODS. punfo DE Boil DE HARICOTS HARIcors VERTS vERTs - Boil French beans. beans. puRE Puree of of French Pure for in a a clotho cloth. Stew Drain and and dry dry in Stew for in salted water. Drain beans in salted water. the beans the a fine fine sieve. rub them sieve. in butter, and rub them through through a butter, and a few few minutes minutes in a potato, and and puree half mashed potato, half its its volume volume of of mashed Add to to this this pure Add just before before serving. mixture. Add Add butter butter just serving. heat up up the the mixture. heat HARIeors VERTS vERTs A LA LA TOMATE ToMATE beare in in tomato tomato sauce. sluce. HARICOTS French beans French are three-parts three-parts in salted water until until they they are Boil the beans in salted water the beans - Boil for a a few few minutes minutes in aa clotho cloth. Stew Stew for Drain, and and dry dry in cooked. cooked . Drain, (see sauce (see Tomato sauce tablespoons Tomato in butter, butter, and add several several tablespoons and add in parsley. with chopped chopped parsley. SAUCE). Simmer. Simmer. Sprinkle Sprinkle with SAUCE).

sometimes Lima beans, beans, sometimes DE LIMA LIMA -- Lima LIMA BEANS. BEANS. HARICOTS HARIcors DE LIMA green,like They are are green, peas,are popular in America. They in America. called Cape Cape peas, called are popular like beans. ofbroad flageolets, and about the the size size of and about flageolets, broad beans. (see below) below) are are beans (see All recipes white haricot haricot beans recipes for for Fresh Fresh white Ali for lima lima beans. beans. suitable for suitable

RED BEANS. BEANS. HARICOTS RoucEs n c.Rrcors ROUGESRED (U.S. Iddney RoucES HAnrcors ROUGES beans). HARICOTS kidney beans). Fresh red red beans beans (U.S. Fresh beans white haricot haricot beans way as as Fresh Fresh white in the FRAIs -- Cook the same same way FRAIS Cook in for red red (see below). aresuitable for white white beans beans are suitable for recipes for below). Ali All recipes (see beans. beans. in the the Cook in RoucEs SECS sEcs -- Cook HARIcors ROUGES Dried red red beans. beare. HARICOTS Dried (see below). recipes All recipes beans (see below). All haricot beans way as as Dried Driedwhite same white haricot same way red beans. beans. dried red are suitable for dried suitable for for dried dried white white beans beans are for
93 93

BEANS, BEANS, TONKA TONKA

Red beam beans in in red red wine wine la la bouguignonne. bourguignonne. HARIcors HARICOTS Red VIN Roucn ROUGE A r,.c, LA nounc[IIGNoNNE BOURGUIGNONNE - Cook Cook the ROUGES AU AU vrN RoucEs red wine, with herbs and beans in equal parts of water and red a piece of blanched lean bacon, or lean smoked bacon. are soft, drain and and fry When the the beans beans are soft, drain fry them, them, together When with some sorne coarsely chopped bacon, in in butter. butter. Serve with with creamed creamed butter. bu tter.

flame for a Drain, and put in a saucepan. Toss them over a ftame in75 o2.,6 tablespoons) few seconds to dry them. Blend in 75 g. (3 oz., 6 tablespoons)

TONKA coumarin, a TONKA BEANS - The seed of a pulse rich in coumarin,

volatile oils and fragrant crystalline substance, fragrant crystalline substance, analogous to volatile manufacture ofsome of some liqueurs. camphor, used in the manufacture camphor,

WHITE HARICOT HARICOT BEANS. BEANS. HARrcors FRESH WHITE HARICOTS FRESH
FRAIS FRAIS -

BLANcS BLANCS

They can also aromatic aromatic vegetables and bouquet garni (q.v.). They and a r bouquet be cooked cooked as follows: Cut a carrot and an onion into quarters and brown them a bouquet garni and and 300 g. lightly in butter. Add the beans, a lightly (5| pints, (ll oz.) blanched lean bacon. Coyer with 3 3litres (11 litres (5t Cover with 6-t 6] pints) water, seasoned with salt. after 25 add the to the the boil, boil, and the beans. Bring to and after 25 minutes minutes add greatly improves This method Simmer slowly. method of cooking greatly slowly. This a number the ftavour flavour of the beans, which can be dressed in a of different ways. must be in cold cold water (Dry white haricot beans must be soaked soaked in for a time before cooking.) cooking.) HARIcors BLANCS BLANcS FRAIS FRAIS Fresb white beans beans bretonne. HARICOTS Fresh i la la bretonne. A LA Le BRETONNE nr.sroNr{E - Cook the beans as indicated in the previous put them recipe. them in pan. Blend Bretonne Drain, and and put in a a pan. Blend in in Bretonne recipe. Drain, (scant I pint, pint, dl. (scant} sauce (see SAUCE) in the proportion of 2-t 2| dl. quart, generous quart) I litre (scant quart, generous cup) sauce to to 1 cooked beans. Simmer for a few minutes, and and sprinkle with chopped parsley. parsley. FRAIs AU HARIcors BLANCS BLANcS FRAIS Fresh beans in butter. HARICOTS Fresh white white beans in botter. previous recipes. BEURRE - Cook the beans beans as indicated in the previous BEURRE-

Cook in boiling salted water to which has been been added - Cook

quart, generous generous quart) cooked butter to every litre (scant quart, to every beans. FRAIS EN Fresh white beam beans en cassoulet. HARIcors HARICOTS BLANcS BLANCS FRAIS cAssouLET CASSOULET - The cassoulet of Languedoc is made from dried also be from fresh white haricot beans, white beans, but but it it may may also be made made from beans. (See CASSOULET.) A LA r.c, BLANcs FRAIS nRxs cream. HARICOTS HARIcors BLANCS Fresh white beans beans in cream. cniirvrs CRME - Cook the beans as indicated in Fresh white haricot Return to fresh cream. cream. Retum beans. Drain, Drain. and and coyer cover with thick fresh beans. reduced to cream has has been to half the cream the the pan, pan, simmer until the been reduced and add fresh fresh cream. cream. Mix Mix.well. volume, and its volume, weil. EsrouFFAT DE fresh white beam I l'occitane. I'occitane. ESTOUFFAT Estorffat of fresh Estouffat beans (+ lb.) g. (-t L'occIrANE BLANcs FRAIS rnHs A HARIcors HARICOTS BLANCS L'OCCITANE - Brown 250 g. diced and and blanched, in butter or belly belly of pork, or salt pork, diced peeled, chopped goose fat. Add 1 chopped tomatoes, chopped onion, onion,2 I chopped goose 2 peeled, garlic. Cook for l+ l0 minutes. Add Add li little crushed crushed garlic. for 10 and a a little and (2f pints, pints, 3t pints) white white haricot beans beans which which have litres 3f pints) litres (2parts cooked, cooked, and and then drained. Coyer, Cover, and then drained. been three three parts been finish cooking. finish HARIcors BLANCS FRAIS beans i la lyonnaise. lyonnaise. HARICOTS Fresh white bea and drain the beans. To To each litre A m LYONNAISE rvoNNAIsE LA - Cook and (scant quart, quart, generous generous quart) quart) beans 2 onions add 2 onions thinly beans add (scant a few few in butter until until tender. Simmer for for a and cooked in tender. Simmer sliced sliced and (3 2 tablespoons with 2 tablespoons (3 minutes in in a a casserole. casserole. Sprinkle Sprinkle with minutes tablespoons) chopped chopped parsley. tablespoons) parsley. HARICOTS BLANcS FRAIS FRAIs tnRlcors BLANCS beam witb with parsley. Fresh Fresh white white beans asfor Aux FINES FINEs HERBES ITERBEsAUX - Proceed as for Fresh white beans in butter, with chopped parsley added. with puRfn DE DE HARICOTS HARIcors BLANCS BLANcS besns. puRE fresh white white beans. Pure Puree of of fresb a fine fine sieve. sieve. FRAIS FRAIs - Cook the beans, drain, and rub through a it is pur6e, stirring with until it with a a wooden spoon spoon until Warm this Wann this pure, in the add fresh fresh butter in the proportion smooth. Before serving, serving, add

rg

( N ico las\ Haricot beaos beans (Nicolas)

94

BEARN, BARN, PAYS PA YS BASQUE, BASQUE, BIGORRE BIGORRE

of 100 100 g. (4 (4 oz, oz., * t cup) cup) butter butter to to 500 500 g. g. (generous (generous 1 1lb., lb., 2 2 cups) cups) of
pur6e. pure.
Il Dried Dried white white beam beans in in tomato tomato sauce. sauce. HARIcors HARICOTS BLANcS BLANCS sEcs SECS e AU Cook and and drain drain the the beans. beans. To To each each litre litre (scant (seant AU ToMATEs TOMATES - Cook

If the bean bean pur6e is is to be be served as as a a vegetable vegetable or or a a garnish Ifthe

SALADE SALADE DE DE HARIcors HARICOTS BLANcS BLANCS Cook and drain the the beans. Put Put them them in a salad bowl bowl Cook and dress dress with with oil oil and and vinegar, vinegar, season with with salt, salt, pepper and (parsley, chervil chervil and chives). Mix and chopped mixed herbs (parsley, weil. well. seasoning. Onion This This salad salad needs needs a lot lot of of seasoning. Onion rings rings or or chopped onion may be added to it.
FRAIS FRArs

it should should be be fairly thick. tbick. it Fresh white bean bean salad. salado Fresh

quart, quart, generous quart) quart) beans beans add add 3 3 dl. dl. (] (t pint, pint, l| li cups) cups) Tomato fondue (see (see FONDUE) FONDUE) flavoured flavoured with with a a little little garlic garlic and a a tablespoon tablespoon chopped chopped parsley. parsley. Simmer Simmer all aIl together in a pan pan for for a few minutes, minutes, and and serve. serve. together

BEAR. BEAR. ouRs OURS - Bear Bear meat meat can only only be be used used after after it it has has been been marinated marinated for a long long time. time. It is is not not particularly tasty ta st y and and is is often tough. tough. Prepare Prepare in in any way way suitable for for wild wild boar boar or or venison. venison. Some Sorne gastronomes consider consider bear's bear's paws paws to to be be a a
great delicacy. delicacy. Bear Bear ham. JAMBoN JAMBON D'ouRsD'OURS - This This ham, ham, common common in in Russia Russia and some sorne European countries, countries, is cured in in the same way way as as pork pork ham. ham. It It is eaten eaten cooked or or raw. raw. All AlI recipes recipes for for pork pork ham ham are suitable for bear bear ham. ham. Bear's prw. IATTE PATTE DE DE L'ouRs L'OURS - The The earliest earliest delicacy delicacy known known to the Chinese. Mencius, Mencius, who lived about about a a hundred hundred years years like, so after after Confucius, Confucius, said: 'Fish 'Fish is what what Illike, so are are bear's bear's paws; but if if I 1 cannot cannot have both, I 1 will will forego the fish fish and and choose the bear's bear's paw.' paw.' The supply of this tbis delicacy is now very limited, limited, and and is is to to be had, if if at at all, aU, in north China. China. Its l ts taste is is unique. unique. Mr. Mr. Cheng, Cheng, to the Court-of St. James', one-time ambassador ambassadorto James', said: 'The 'The nearest nearest comparison is that it it is like the fat fat part of of the best best ham, or rather much better, for it it has not not the greasiness greasiness of of the latter. It is so smooth and delicious de\icious that it it simply simply melts in the mouth.' mou th. ' To cook. Wrap the paw paw in clean c1ean mud and bake bake in in the oven. oven. When the mud becomes firm finn like clay, take the paw out of of the oven, leave to cool, and peel peel off off the mud - this will will autoautoSimmer in water, offthe matically matically tear off the hairy hairy skin of of the paw. Simmer frequently to get changing the water frequently get rid rid of of its its gamey gamey smell smell and taste. When the paw has become become very soft and 'tasteless', 'tasteless', cook over low heat with shredded chicken meat, lean Jean ham, harn, sherry enable the ingredients and just enough water water to to enable ingredients to to yield'a yielda slices, like thick gravy. Cut in in sUces, like ham.
See ARBUTUS. BEARBERRY. RAlSIN nnrsm D'ouRs BEARBERRY. D'OURS - See ARBUTUS.

DRIED WHITE HARICOT HARICOT BEANS (U.S. (U.S. Horticultural Horticultural

beans). HARIcors HARICOTS BLANcs BLANCS sBcsSECS - Dried Dried white white haricot haricot beans beans are

usually soaked for a long time in water, but this traditional traditional practice practice is a bad one. If If dried beans beans or or other other dried vegetables vegetables have have to be soaked they tbey should be left for a short short time time only. only. Some recipes recommend 12 12 or even even 24 hours of soaking, Sorne wheqeas for a a few few hours, hours, may may cause cause slight sligbt whereas soaking, even even for fermentation which noticeably fermentation noticeably spoils spoils the the flavour flavour of of the the beans and can and can also make them thern slightly poisonous. To To swell the llto beans, 1 soaking is sufficient. to 2 hours bours soaking sufficient. good quality If the beans beans are are of of good quality and have have been been dried within If theycan be cooked without soaking. soaking. can be the year, they Pick through the the beans and and wash wash them. them. Put Put them them in in a Pick cold water, and bring slowly deep saucepan with plenty of cold Season. Flavour with aromatic to the boil. Skim. Season. aromatic vegetables V"j~'-laLJl'-" (onions cloves, quartered (on ions stuck with c1oves, quartered carrots, a bouquet stuck with garlic). Cover the pan and garni (q.v.) clove of garlic). (q.v.) and a a small c10ve simmer very very slowly. some cases, especially especially for cassoulet (q.v.) and estoufat In sorne estouffat (q.v.) it is advisable to cook the dried beans with fat. This is done by adding to the stock salted bacon, chine of salt pork and fresh fresh pork skin. skin. This adds or knuckle of pork, and adds flavour to to the beans. can be used in the sarne same Once cooked, dried white beans can la bretonne, bretonne, en d la ways as as fresh fresh white white beans: ways beans: in in butter, butter, d la lyonnaise, in cream, with herbs, estouffat, cassoulet, en estouffat, berbs, as pur6e, in salad, etc. a pure, BLANcS SECS sEcs I'am6ricaine. HARIcors beans i l'amricaine. HARICOTS BLANCS Dried Ihied white beans way, adding usual way, in the usual Cook the beans in A L'AMRICAINE r'eufnrclrxr -- Cook (lI litre (1 bacon to a litre opr,prt"\llC 1 t pints, generous I lb.) lean bacon 500 g. (generous bacon. quart) dried haricot beans. beans. Drain, trim and dice the bacon. add the the bacon sauce, add tomato sauce, Mix bacon and Mix the beans with with tomato the beans is well cooked. until the the bacon is simmer until HARIcors BLANCS BLANcS SECS sEcs A Dried white white beans beam i l'anglaise. I'anglaise. HARICOTS Dried with seasoning I'ANGLAIsE -- Boil Boil the beans in in water water with seasoning and the beans L'ANGLAISE and drain. fresh butter. drain. Serve Serve with fresh herbs, and HARIcors BLANCS BLANcS Dried white white beans bears i la la berrichonne. berrichonne. HARICOTS Dried BERRIcHoNwS A LA LA BERRICHONNE sscs SECS - Proceed as for Dried white beans au gratin (see below). Alternate thick mutton Alternate layers of beans and thick pour hash in in an an ovenware dish. Sprinkle with breadcrumbs, pour ovenware dish. and brown in the oven. melted butter over, over, and rnelted HARIcors BLANCS beans I la la charcutire. charcutilre. HARICOTS white beans Dried white Dried piece of beans with with a a piece of A LA LA CHAhCUTlRE cHARcur$ns - Cook Cook the the beans secs SECS is cooked, and herbs. herbs. When the ham is desalted lean lean raw raw ham, ham, and desalted coarse dice. Drain tbe the beans thoroughly. drain it and and eut cut into coarse drain (5 oz., in butter. Add 150 g. (5 cups) chopped on onion Brown 150 oz.,lf, Brown li cups) ion in diced ham. ham. the diced the beans beans and simmer, simmer, presently adding the the 6 small Cook 6 small pork Transfer to a buttered ovenware ovenware dish. Cook to a Transfer (cripinettes) in press them them down down on on in butter, butter, and and press sausages (crpinettes) sausages add the the butter butter and add the beans. with breadcrurnbs, breadcrumbs, and beans. Sprinkle Sprinkle with the Brown slowly. slowly. were cooked. cooked. Brown in which which the the sausages sausages were in gratin. HARICOTS AU HARIcors BLANCS BLANcS SECS sncs AU beans au au gratin. Dried white white beans Dried concenand add add sorne some concenand drain drain the the beans, beans, and cRATIN -- Cook Cook and GRATIN into a a buttered ovenware dish, buttered ovenware veal stock. Pour into trated veal stock. Pour trated and add add melted melted butter. with toasted breadcrumbs, and sprinkle with toasted breadcrumbs, Brown slowly slowlv in in the the oven. oven.

The art cookery BTGoRREof cookery BASQUE, Bf,ARN PAYS Ufi.CO ....".JJr... BIGORRE - The art of of is highly esteemed in these three three picturesque picturesque provinces provinces of

the Pyrenees. the many specialities - Among the Culinary specialities many notable notable dishes dishes preserved goose goose garbure, a lou trebuc, trebuc, preserved a substantial soup; lou are garbure, are B6arn, onion soup to pork; toulia and ou/iat ouliat in Barn, to Bigorre and toulian or pork; in Bigorre added, and which is is is sometimes sometimes added, a dash dash of vinegar is which a which garlic, when leeks and and garlic, also made cheese, tomatoes, leeks made of of cheese, when it it also &t berger. name of soupe soupe du the name takes the takes lamb is is a historie dish; tender lamb IV is is a historic dish; Poule au pot d'Henri IV in mutton cutlets in in Barn, B6arn, rnutton be had had in the the Ossau Ossau valley in to be to estouffat; or estouffat; also daube d la la barnaise, biarnaise, or are also Barbges; there there are Barges; pork, turkey and goose, and duck. preserved go preserved ose, pork, produces excellent local wines. wines. The excellent local Wines - Barn B6arn produces Wines produces Basses-Pyr6n6es prod dCpartemenl of of the the Basses-Pyrnes dpartement uces several wines d'origiru appellations d'origine the appellations categories of the come under the the categories that come and V.D.Q.S. V.D.Q.S. and appelations d'origine The Juranon Jurangon is the best known of of the appelations The King of the King of Navarre wine that wines. It It was was with with this this wine that the wines. IV. It It is is Henry IV. lips of his nephew, the the future future Henry of his moistened the the Iips moistened a robust, rosy-tinged with an unusual, mellow bouquet, rosy-tinged wine with a 'Manseng' vine. vine. This vine, This vine, and cornes comes frorn from the the so-called so-called 'Manseng' and gives the and Sauvignon, also gives the with the Sauvignon, also together with the Smillon S6millon and produced in Pacherenc de in the nortb north of of Vicbilh, a a white white wine produced de Vicbilh, Pa<;hererlC province. the province. the perfect accomaccomvery strong wine, the the perfect strong wine, a very is a The Madiran is The V.D.Q.S. Among the the V.D.Q.S. region. Among anisine of of the the region. the cuisine to the paniment to

95 95

BEARN, PAYS BASQUE, BARN, BASQUE, BIGORRE BIGoRRE

(French Governmenl Sauveterre de B6arn, Ofice) B6arn (French Tourist Office) Sauveterre Barn, Barn Government Tourisi

lrouldguy, the red wine of the Basque country, country, there is the Iroulguy, red wine thete B6arn, the and red the white wines of Barn, the Rousselet, the white and red wines Rousselet, and and the B6arn which are are beginning seriously to very dry ros6s ross of Barn - which rival Provence. rival those those of Provence. great gourmet, who studied a great Paul PauJ de Cassagnac, a studied the wines Adour basin, quotes among the remarkable vintages of the Adour vintages 1870, 1886, 1886, 1898, 1898, 1904 1904 and of 1870, and 1916. of the the Madiran those those of a Madiran of 1848 which was He had also occasion occasion to drink a still 'at the height of its form'. still gathered late, towards the end 'The Portet is a white wine, gathered

and soft, or dry, depending on of November. It is is sweet and on the year. feature of of the Juranon sweetness, 'The characteristic characteristic feature Jurangon is its sweetness, a syrup. which does not destroy its bouquet or turn it into a years are are mostly irregular; often often the vintage years The mostly irregular; the good The vintage are swamped swamped in qualities of Juranon Jurangon are qualities in the the excess of sugar. 1886, and 1916 produced splendid results.' 1905 and 1886, 1905 B6arn and and is A is also made in in Barn A red red Juranon Jurangon (Bouchy) is'also greatly esteemed as a a table cannot compare wine, but but it greatly table wine, it cannot esteemed as Jurangon. with white Juranon.
Lamprey, Shad, Sahed leg of

cEAN:H.J

ffi*i{*'''
Ham

:?^%ru^zi,A
ftt r. pot i
Lonquinguesrrtp!t{
Poule

PoiEi,-a duck preserves (confits)

omelette,

ry:"H:f:Sffi lmffi;*xl#@ffif':iffiW
ci.r6prr, sguids,
Sea-perch, Grey

ou

i[;l;i["'"7

mullet, "''"="

{ .I-

'-"1

i i +-_';;il;;;;;!-,

--''.;il:;::'
o;aaornl

Macaroons. Bas.que flan

speclolitier

i",:,f:.:.:^1^n*-*'+-ttr:*'^(t**

Elzekoria (pumpkin soup). Purce.de ciboure, Piperoile, Songuetc,-Broye, Cro.gucts Aliches noifes (black bread), Salurgue, /vlicnes noires (Dlack Cretons. Solursue. Creions, Lretons,5olurgue,

Hochto, Soutd chicken, Pigeon

Merveilles, Crespets.

e,t*yo,t. fl.:i{i'ffli:jfiii::ifl, ,.,,r"r salmi,

Duck s'fiver,

bornois, breadlbread), '' iiipiinut, Aticutt,'

Postis

_\\ lzird (chafrois) stew tf .l-_ (confi) \\\ preserve t \ li --rr \ \ -'.-fu'-*r4'r'r'r-r
--\\ \\ i

ffiffi#ff,

\
ano

Map of of B6arn Map Barn

96

BEAUVILLIERS BEA UVILLIERS

BEARNAISE BARNAISE SAUCE - This famous sauce is said to have have origina ted in in B6arn, Barn, though some sorne culinary writers assert originated
that it originated originated at Saint-Germain-en-Laye Saint-Gennain-en-Laye and and was named named that in honour honour of Henry IV, the Great Biarnal's. Barnais. But in fact the Henry IV pavilion pavilion dates as a restaurant restaurant from the year year 1836 1836
and the recipe for Bdarnaise Barnaise sauce first appeared in 1818 in la Cuisiniire Cuisinire des villes vil/es et des campagnes. Ia
- Animals Animais intended intended for for slaughter, slaughter, which which come under the the general general term tenn of livestock, livestock, are enumerated under that that heading. heading. In addition, some sorne beasts beasts of of burden, burden, such under as horse, mule, donkey and camel, cameJ, are edible. as animais, i.e. ground game, game, ail which Among the wild animals, all of which are are edible, edible, are deer, chamois, fallow-deer, fallow-deer, red red deer, deer, wild are deer, boar.

BEAUGENCY BEAUGENCY - Small Small town town in in Loiret, Loiret, producing wine wine which resembles Burgundy) resembles the the Basse-Bourgogne (Lower (Lower Burgundy)
wines. wines.

BEAST. BEA ST. stTE B~TE

BEAUHARNAIS BEAUHARNAIS (A (A LA) LA) - Method of of preparing preparing small cuts cuts .t ourne do s. of meat, mainly ofmeat, mainlytournedos. Garnish Garnish with small artichoke artichoke hearts and Biarnaise Barnaise sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE), vtith with a a pur6e pure of tarragon added to it; it; and little potato potato balls.

BEAUJOLAIS - Ancient French region that has given its

sweetbreads, mushrooms, used as a garnish for vol-au-vent, vol-au-vent, sweetbreads, and tourtes (q.v.), a Velouti bouchdes (g.v.), bound bound with a Velout souce sauce or bouches and Supr~me sauce (see SAUCE). Suprtme Ragot of of Hatilles batilles (titbits) - Here is an old recipe: Ragoftt g. Q 'Gently cook in butter 250 g. (9 oz.) lambs' lambs' sweetbreads sweetbreads

BEATILLES BATILLES (Iitbits) (Titbits) - Cocks' combs and kidneys, lambs'

name to a 'gulping'wine 'gulping' wine with a very strong strong bouquet bouguet which which must must be be drunk drunk when when it it is is young young and and fresh. fresh. L6on Lon Daudet Daudet said that Lyon was watered by three rivers: the Rh6ne, Rhne, the Sa6ne and Sane and the the Beaujolais. The appellation'Beatjolais' appellation 'Beaujolais' is linked Iinked with the viticultural viticultural region of of Burgundy Burgundy (q.v.). (g.v.).

BEAUMONT - Savov Savoy cheese cheese in season from from October October to
June.

BEAUNE - Sub-prefecture Sub-prefecture of of the the Cdte-d'Or. Cte-d'Or. Famous since the Middle Ages for the excellence of of its wines. It has
given appellation conirle. contr1lie. given its name to an appellation of the southern part of the COteThe white and red wines of Cte'Cdte de Beaune'. They d'Or are classed under the name of 'Cte

(which (which have have previously previously been been soaked soaked in in co Id water cold water and

blanched). Skin and soak in cold water water 125 g. (4 oz.) cocks' blanched). (q.v.). Add 25 g. (1 court-bouillon (g.v.). (1 oz.) combs, and cook in a court-bouillon cocks' kidneys, cooked in in I 1 dl. (6 tablespoons, scant 1cup) } cup) Madeira and a tablespoon butter. and a butter. Saut briskly in in butter Saut6 briskly 250 g. (9 oz.) sliced and seasoned Cook 250 g. seasoned chicken livers. Cook (9 (9 oz.) trimmed and washed mushrooms in butter. Put the sweetbreads, chicken chicken livers, Iivers, cocks' combs and kidneys lambs' sweetbreads, cocks'combs g. (4 oz.) sliced and the mushrooms in a Add 125 g. a saucepan saucepan.. Add (f pint,3 truffies and and lf li dl. (t pint, cup) Madeira. Madeira. Simmer with a lid on on,. (q.v.) using concentrated chicken stock. stock. 'Make a a Velout Veloutd (g.v.) Add to it half its volume of fresh fresh cream. cream. Boil down by half. Lace with a a little Madeira. add add sorne Lace with little Madeira, butter, strain, strain. and some butter. pour over ragottt.' the ragot.' over the

are among are among the the finest finest of of the the Burgundy wines wines (see (see BURGUNDY). The annual annual wine auction of The wine auction of the the Hospices Hospices de de Beaune attracts buyers from all over the world. attracts from ail
served as Steward of the Household served Steward of Household to the Count Count ofProvence of Provence and Attach6 Attach Extraordinary of of the Royal Household. Household . (n 1782, according to The restaurant which which he he founded (in The was situated 1786 according to Brillat-Savarin, in to others) was in 1786 rne de de Richelieu and was called la Grande Grande Taverne de at 26 26 rue Londres. It can be considered considered the first real to be real restaurant to etc. were in Paris. Rivarol, Pelletier, Champcenetz, etc. opened in

great cuisinier. He was a a great Beauvilliers was BEAWILLIERS BEAUVILLIERS - Beauvilliers

(French Governmenl A Beaujolais wine-cellar wine-cellar (French Government Tourisl Tourist Office) Ofice) A

97

BEAUVILLIERS BEA UVILLIERS

habituis and and more more th issue of than one issue of the the Journal Journal des des Aptres Ap\tres habitus an one was composed composed after good dinner after a a good dinner in in another another restaurant restaurant was that Beauvilliers Beauvilliers owned owned in in rue rue de de Valois. Valois. He He bought bought three three that arcades of of the the Palais-Royal Palais-Royal in in 1790 1790 for for 157,000 157,000 francs. francs. arcades During the the turmoil turmoil of of the the Revolution Revolution la Grande Taverne Taverne la Grande During de Londres Londres had had to close its to close its doors. doors. Towards Towards the the end end of of the the de Directoire, Beauvilliers Beauvilliers reopened reopened it. it. In In 1824 1824 he he wrote wrote his his Directoire, book l'Art l'Art du dt cUisinier, cuisinier, which which for for a a long long time remained an an time remained book authoritative standard standard work. work. Brillat-Savarin Brillat-Savarin wrote: wrote: authoritative 'Beauvilliers had prodigious memory. had a a prodigious memory. He He recognised recognised 'Beauvilliers people whom and welcomed welcomed people whom he he had had not not seen seen for for twenty twenty and years, people people who who may may only only have have eaten eaten at at his his restaurant restaurant years, once or or twice. twice. once 'He would advise would ad which dish dish not not to to take, take, which which to to snap snap 'He vise which up, and and would would then then order order a a third third one which no one which no one one else else up, would have have thought thought of; of; he he wou would have wine wine brought brought up up Id have would from the vaults, to the vaults, which only to which only he he had had the . . . But the key key ... But this this rle r6le from of a a host host lasted lasted but but a a moment moment and and having having accomplished accomplished it it of he would would vanish. vanish. And And a a little little while while later later the the amount amount of the of the he dinner bill bill and and the paying it the bitterness bitterness of of paying it showed showed clearly clearly dinner that one one had had dined great restaurateur. dined with with a a great restaurateur. Beauvilliers Beauvilliers that made his his fortune, fortune, lost lost it it and and made made it it again again several several times.' made BEAUVILLIERS Garnish for for braised braised meat meat consisting consisting of of - Garnish BEAUVILLIERS spinach kromeskies, kromeskies, toma tomatoes puree of stuffed with with a a pure of brains, brains, spinach toes stuffed and salsify salsify sauted saut6ed in in butter. butter. and BEALIILLIERS AND BONVALET These two two cakes, cakes, the the BEAUVILLIERS AND BONV ALET - These recipes for for which which are are almost almost identical, identical, were were created created towards towards recipes the middle middle of the nineteenth nineteenth century. of the century. the of Beauvilliers' Beauvilliers' old One of pupils. Monnier, old pupils. Monnier, set set up up a a One cake shop in rue rue Monsieur-le-Prince Monsieur-le-Prince and, shop in and, as as homage homage to his to his cake teacher, named named his his creation creation after after him. him. This This was was the first the first teacher, cake intended intended for for travel, travel, wrapped wrapped in in tin tinfoil. cake foi 1. The Bonvalet Bonvalet cake cake was was created created by Jules Leroy, Leroy, head head The by Jules pastry-cook at at Machin's, Machin's, 99 de Turenne, Turenne, and pastry-cook 99 rue rue de and he he dedidedicated it it to a Monsieur Monsieur Bonvalet Bonvalet in is the cated to a in 1869. 1869. Here Here is the recipe recipe for these cakes, as given by as given for these cakes, by Phil6as Philas Gilbert: Gilbert: 'Pound 200 g. (7 200 g. oz., scant scant lf almonds with an equal Q oz., 'Pound 11 cups) cups) almonds with an equal amount of sugar, add 5 egg amount of sugar, add 5 egg whites whites little !ittle by by little. little. Rub Rub this mixture sieve. mixture through through a a sieve. 'Blend (18 oz., 500 g. g. (18 oz., 2{ 2i cups) cups) sugar sugar with with 350 350 g. g. (12 (12 oz., oz., 'Blend 500 l] butter and and 4 4 whole whole eggs eggs in in a a bowl. bowl. When When quite quite 11 cups) cups) butter smooth, add smooth, add the the almond almond mixture, mixture, 175 175 g. g. (6 (6 oz., oz., lf li cups) cups) fine fine cake cake flour, flour, the the same same amount amount of of rice rice flour flour and and potato potato flour. flour. Add Add 7 7 egg egg whites whites whisked whisked to to a a stiff stiff froth. froth. Cook Cook in in a a moderate moderate oven oven (160'C., (1 60C., 325oF., 325F., Gas Gas Mark Mark 3) 3) in in a a special special cake-baking trois trois cake-baking tin tin (with (with. a a hole hole in in the the middle) middle) called called d frCres, frres, sprinkled sprinkled with with potato potato flour. flour. 'When 'When the the cake cake is is cold, cold, ice ice it it with with kirsch kirsch icing icing and and fill fill the the centre CREAMS) or Chantilly ueam cream (see (see CREAMS) or Plombiire Plombire ice ice centre with with Chantilly ueanf(see cream' (see ICE ICE CREAMS CREAMS AND AND ICES). ICES). BEAVER. CASTOR - A A mammal mammal rare rare in in Europe Europe but but common cornmon BEA VER. cAsroR in in U.S.A. U.S.A. Its Its meat meat is is sometimes sometimes eaten, eaten, but but has has a a rather rather disagreeable disagreeable musky musky flavour. flavour. BEC BEC (Berk) (Beak) - Word Word often often used used in in French French colloquial colloquial exexpressions, pressions, such such as as rincer rincer le le bec bec (to (to wet wet one's one's whistle), whistle), which which means drink; tortiller tortiller &t du bec bec (to (to wolf wolf down, down, to to make make means to to drink; short food), which bec, which short work work of offood), which means means to to eat;fin eat;finbec, which means means a a gourmet. gourmet. BEC-PLAT BEC-PLAT ('Flat-beak', ('Flat-beak', i.e. i.e. Shoveller) ShoveUer) - Common Common French French name name for for spoon-bill spoon-bill duck, duck, called called so so because because of of its its flat flat beak. beak. It It can can be be prepared prepared in in all ail the the ways ways suitable sui table for for Wild Wild duck duck (see DUCK). (see DUCK). BEC-POINTU BEC-POINTU - French French name name for for white white skate. skate. They They call call it it 'sharp 'sharp beak' beak' because because its its head head is is elongated elongated and and the the body body oval. oval. It It can can be be prepared prepared as as ordinary ordinary skate skate (q.v.). (q.v.). (Hooked DOse) BECARD (Hooked nose) -- French French term term for for old old male male salmon. BCARD salmon. Its snout snout begins begins to protrude like to protrude like a a hooked hooked beak, beak, hence Its hence the the (See SALMON.) name. (See SALMON.) name.

BECASSEAU -- French French name name for young woodcock, for the the young BCASSEAU woodcock, until its its seventh seventh month. month. until All the the methods methods of preparation given of preparation given for for woodcock Ali woodcock are are applicable, but btil becasseau becassean are are mostly mostly cooked cooked on applicable, on a a spit. spit.

Woodcock Woodcock

(Louis de) BECHAMEIL (Louis de Nointel, a a financier BCHAMEIL - Marquis de who made made his fortune during the the Fronde Fronde (the rising of the the who aristocracy and and the the ParIiament Parliament against against Mazarin in in 1648aristocracy got himself 53) and and got himself the the post of Lord Lord Steward Steward of the Royal Royal 53) Household to to Louis XIV. XIV. The invention of bchamel bichamel sauce is attributed to him but is more more likely to have been been the invention of a court of a court chef chef who who dedicated it B6chameil as as a it to to Bchameil tion compliment. compliment. The old old Duc d'Escars said: said: 'That fellow Bchameil B6chameil has The all I was serving serving breast ln crme crime twenty al! the luck. 1 breast of of chicken d la years before he he was born, I have never had the chance chance bom, but 1 years of giving sauces!' giving my name to the most insignificant of sauces!'

BECHAMEL SAUCE SAUCE - Was bdchamel BCHAMEL bchamel sauce sauce really invented by Marquis Louis de de B6chameil? Bchameil? Was this financier financier a gasgourmet, and was he in any way competent tronome and a gourmet, competent in in the culinary culinary art? We do not know, but everything everything seems to indicate indicate that, in fact, bichamel bchamel sauce, sauce, being being a major sauce, sauce, must must have been been perfected perfected by one of the queux queux de semestre - cooks cooks in in the service service of of the royal royal kitchen. kitchen. Originally, bchamelwas made made by by adding adding a a liberal Iiberal amount amount Original!y, bichamelwas of of fresh fresh cream to a thick thick veloutd velout sauce. sauce. Nowadays N owadays bdchamel bchamel is is made made by by pouring pouring boiling boiling milk milk on white roux (blend of butter butter and and flour). flour). When a a meat meat bichamel bchamel is wanted, wanted, lean lean veal, veal, diced and simmered in in butter butter with with a minced minced onion. onion, is is added. added. (See (See SAUCE.) SAUCE.) B6chamel Bchamel sauce (Car0me's (Carme's recipe) recipe) - 'When the velouti velout is is thick, thick, bind bind it it with with egg yolks yolks and and thick thick cream. cream. Stir with with a a wooden wooden spoon to to make make sure sure the the sauce sauce does does not not stick stick to to the the pan. of butter butter the the size size pan. Remove Remove it it from from the the heat, heat, add add a a piece piece of of of a a walnut walnut and and a few few tablespoons tablespoons of of thick thick double double cream. cream. Add of grated grated nutmeg, nutmeg, sieve sieve through through a a white white cloth cloth Add a a pinch pinch of and and keep keep hot hot in in a a bain-marie.' bain-marie.'
BECQUETER BECQUETER - French French slang slang word word which which means'to means 'to peck peck at at food'. food'.

BEDSTRAW. BEDSTRA W. clu,rE-r GAILLET - Plant Plant of of the the Rubiaceae Rubiaceae familv. family. The The flowering flowering tops tops of of the the yellow yellow bedstraw bedstraw or or cheese-rennlt cheese-rennet contain contain a a substance substance which which is is used used in in the the curdling curdling of of milk. milk. It It is is used used in in the the preparation preparation of of Cheshire Cheshire cheese. cheese.
BEECH. BEECH. t$rnr IffiTRE - Handsome Handsome tree tree found found in in upland upland groves. groves. Beech nut is is good good to to eat. eat. Beech Beech oil oil is is extracted extracted from from these these Beech nut nuts, and is is second second only only to to olive olive oil oil in in quality. quality. nuts, and

98 98

BEEF BEEF
Beech Beech nut. nut. rllNs FAINE - (See (See above.) above.) Its Its flavour flavour is is midway midway between between that that of ofthe the hazelnut hazelnut and and the the chestnut, chestnut, with with a a sligbtly slightly

astringent astringent taste taste which which disappears disappears when when roasted, roasted, as as in in the the case case of of chestnuts. chestnuts.

with greasy covered coveredwith greasy spots, spots, as as in in the the case case of ofhorse horsemeat. mea t. In In France France beefis beef is classified classified in in three three categories categories according according to to fine-grained firm and its itsmarket marketvalue, value, which which depends depends on on how how firrn and fine-grained sinews and the the texture texture is, is, as as well weil as as on on the the proportion proportion of ofsinews and fat: fat:

fat. fat. Blotting Blotting paper paper applied applied to to the the surface surface should should never never be be

First First category. category. Fillet, Fillet, porterhouse porterhouse steak, steak, rump, rump, rump rump steak, steak, silverside silverside and and inner inner parts parts

sirloin, sirloin, top top of of the the flank flank

Tourist Ofice) Cattle Cattle market market at Bordeaux Bordeaux (French (French Govenrment Governmenl Tourisl Office)

nourishfortifying and most nourishBEEF. BoETJFBOEUF - Beef Beef is the most fortifying BEEF. ing of of ail all red meat. graded beef, graded qualities of of beef, are three three qualities In France, there are France, there work done and sex offattening, work state offattening, accordirtg accordilg to breed, age, state includes the meat of bullocks, heifers, of of the animal (for beef includes cows and bulls). feeding and feeding in rearing and The English have long specialised in have long imported Durham Shorthorns were imported cattle for for beef. beef. County County Durham stock. of beef-producing stock. the strain strain of into improve the into France to to improve Limousin, Charolais, Limousin, crossbreeds, Charolais, The The Durham-Manceau Durham-Manceau crossbreeds, good for fatteriing. for fatteIiing. are also also good Salers are Garonne, Normandy and Salers Normandy and

ln

Charolais cattle Charolaiscattle

the tothe andelastic elasticto firmand Prime redin incolour, colour,firm Prime beef isbright bright red beefis withthe the touch. fatintermingles intermingles with thefat freshsmell; smell; the It has hasaafresh touch. It grainsof of yellowish grains lean, orslightly pepperingit slightlyyellowish whiteor itwith with white lean,peppering

and and round. round. Second Second category. category. Top Top of of sirloin, sirloin, plate, plate, top top ribs, ribs, fore-rib fore-rib and and three-rib, three-rib, shoulder shoulder ofbeef, of beef, chuck chuck end end ofclod, of clod, and and clod. clodo Third Third category. category. Flank, Flank, brisket, brisket, leg leg of of beef, beef, neck, neck, oxoxcheek, of beef, beef, knuckle. knuckle. cheek, shin, shin, ox-knees, ox-knees, shin shin of generally Cows' Cows' meat meat is is inferior inferior to to that that of of bullocks, bullocks, generally cows speaking, speaking, although although the the flesh fiesh of of young young heifers heifers and and sterile sterilecows can can often often be be extremely extremely good. good. Bull's Bull's meat meat is is tough; tough; it it swells swells a a great great deal deal in in cooking, cooking, but but is is not not suitable suitable for for anything anytrung excpt except the the stockpot. stockpot. The The meat meat of of a a young young bullock bullock is is usually usually the the b9s1. best. pet cent Good Good quality quality beef beef is is 97 97 per cent assimilable assimilable (provided (provided it it is is residue, is not not eatenlo eaten to excess) excess) and, and, since since it it leaves 1eaves little littleresidue, is easily easily larger in say, is to that digested. Eating beef beef to to excess, excess, that is to say, in larger digested. Eating quantities quantities than than the the digestive digestive juices juices can can cope cope with with (saturation (saturation leads individual) to point individual varies from point varies from individual to individual) leads to to intestinal intestinal it calories it disorders. disorders. The The fattier fattier the the piece piece of of beef, beef, the the more more calories is fat is meat of amount excessive amount of meat fat provides. an excessive However, an provides. However, eat the the so many explains why difficult to digest, which difficult to digest, which explains why so man y people people eat fat. the meat and leave meat and leave the fat. part which is which is for the the part French terrn term for .le boeuf boed - French Aiguillette de Aiguillette the is the This is boa{. This de boeuf and pidce anlotte and de culotte ialled pointe also called also pointe de pice de poachedor poached. braised or is usually and is part rump and of the the rump top top part of usually braised -niron in England England served Joint DE BoETJF BARoN beef. of Baron of beef. BARON DE BOEUF - Joint served in part a part and a sirloins and the two two sirloins It comprises comprises the time. It at Christmas Christmas time. at ribs. the ribs. of the of joint is d l'anglaise I'anglaise sirloin as Roast Roast sir is trea treated large joint This large This ted as loin (see below). below). (see defines origin, defines English origin, word, of of English This word, BIFTEcK -- This Beefsteak. BIFTECK Beefsteak. grilled. The The name name is is and grilled. fillet and from the the fillet beef taken taken from a slice slice of of beef a conteor contrefrom the the sirloin, sirloin, or taken from beef taken given to a slice of beef also given to a slice of also filet. filet. fried in in butter butter also be be fried it may may also grilling beefsteak, beefsteak, it Instead of of grilling Instead Contre' Entrecbte, Chateaubriand, Chateaubriand, Contresee Entrecte, recipes see For recipes lard. For or lard. or is cooked, is raw or or cooked, minced beef, beef, served served raw France, minced etc.In filet, etc. filet, In France, also called called bifteck. bifteck. also Trim A L'AMRICAINE L'ltrdnrclrNn -- Trim BIFTEcK l'am6ricaine. BIFTECK Beefsteak l'amricaine. Beefsteak finely, meat finely, the meat mince the (14 oz.) offfat, cut off g. (14 fillet of of beef, beef, cut oz.) fiUet 4@ g. 400 fat, mince of in the the centre centre of nest in little nest Make aa little cakes. Make flat cakes. into flat and shape shape into and yolk of into it. it. of egg egg into raw yolk a raw each'steak'and slip a each 'steak' and slip parsley, and parsley, onion and chopped onion cakes chopped beef cakes the beef with the Serve with Serve pickled in vinegar. in vinegar. and capers capers pickled and diet. prescribed in in aa building-up building-up diet. is often often prescribed dish is This dish This Mince A L'ANDALOUSE r'Ar'IDII-ousn -- Mince BIFTEcK l'andalouse. BIFTECK Beefsteak l'andalouse. Beefsteak (2 oz., chopped g. (2 oz.,loap) 50g. it 50 g.(14 (14 oz.) add to to it 400 g. beef finely, add oz.) beeffinely, 400 t cup) chopped garlic. pounded garlic. pinch of of pounded with aa pinch butter, with fried in in butter, onion lightly lightly fried onion in fry in and fry flourand with flour Dredge with flatcakes. cakes.Dredge into fiat Season and shape into and shape Season oil. oil. have been been which have half tomatoes tomatoes which on half cakeson beef cakes Arrange the the beef Arrange pilaf. with rice rice pilaf. dish with thedish of the centreof Fill the the centre in oil. oil. Fill saut6ed in sauted juicesleft meat with with the meat frying the from frying pan juices left over overfrom Dilute the the pan Dilute add down, add boil down, cup) sherry; sherry; boil (6 tablespoons, scant t* cup) dl.(6 tablespoons, scant 1I dl. cakes. pour over beef cakes. the beef over the and pour butter and butter thesteak steak Seasonthe ACHEV cnevAr, BIFTEcK cheval. BIFTECK Beefsteak I cbeval. Beefsteak AL - - Season Arrange quickly in inhot hotbutter. butter'Arrange pepperand saut6 quickly andsaut andpepper withsalt saltand with and butter and Pourbutter top.Pour eggson ontop. friedeggs twofried plate with oneor ortwo withone onaaplate on beef. thebeef. overthe cookingjuices thecooking the juices over pArfCHAUD DEBOEUF BoEUF crnuo DE pie(English cookery). PT Beefsteak pie Beefsteak @nglish cookery). into beefinto qualitylean lean beef lb.)best bestqwi.lity ttkg. kg. ($ lb.) Cut li AL'ANGLAISE l'lNcmtsn- -Cut pepper and and withsalt, salt,pepper Seasonwith inch) thick. thick. Season cm.(-! slices1 cm. slices Ginch) and onionand chopped onion withchopped andsprinkle sprinklewith gratednutmeg, nutmeg, and grated water. orwater. piedish. Addstock stockor dish.Add intoaapie parsley.Put slicesinto Putthe theslices parsley.

(3*

99

BEEF

rib

entrecte

rump steak rump<;teak

I , flank: 2. skirt l, f1ank; 2. skir!

brisket

top rump rump top

top rib

fillet

contre-filet

con tre-filet

100

\00

BEEF BEEF

Silve

rs

ide

Topside

flonk Thick flonk Thick

Rump sleok

LLtI

Rolled ribs

ond

slRt()lN

Shoulder

tul
Best

\--

rib

n+*=S
B

riske t

(huck

Neck
cuts or ofbeef English beer EnglishCULS

Birteck cheval

Beersleak pie

101

BEEF BEEF

Sirloin sleok
Round steolt

Porlerhouse sleok
Rump

roosl

(lub

steok

Stonding rib roost

Flonk sleok

Short ribs
Rolled rib roosl Brisket
(Corned beef)

(huck pol roosl

American cuts cuts of of beef beef American

Stew meo men l t Slew

Wet the the edge edge of of the the pie pie dish, dish, put put a border border of of pastry pastry around around Wet it, moisten moisten with with a a little little water water and and put put on on a lid lid of of pie pie or puff it, pastry. Seal Seal the the edges, edges, ornament ornament the the top top with pieces pieces of pastry. pastry cut cut in in fancy fancy shapes, shapes, brush brush over over with beaten beaten egg yolk, pastry and make make a a hole hole in in the the centre centre to to allow allow steam steam to to escape. escape. Bake Bake and in a a moderate modera te oven oven for for l| 1i to to 2 2 hours. hours. Serve Serve hot. hot. in Beefsteak i la la russe russe Oitok). (bitok). BTFTEcK BIFTECK A r.r LA nusse RUSSE - For each Beefsteak - For each 125 g. g. (4 (4 oz.) oz.) lean lean beef; beef; cut away all ail fat and serving, trim trim 125 serving, remove sinews. sinews. Mince Mince finely finely and and add add 25 25 g. g. (l (1 oz., oz., 2 2 remove nutmeg. tablespoons) butter. butter. Season Season with with salt, salt, pepper pepper and nutmeg. table'spoons) Shape into into flat fiat cakes, cakes, dip dip in in flour flour and and fry fry in in clarified clarified butter. butter. Shape Add 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) crearn cream (sour (sour cream, crea m, for Add and I 1 tablespoon tablespoon demi-glace demi-glace (q.v.) (g.v.) to to the the butter butter preference) and preference) left in in the the pan. pan. Put Put I1tablespoon tablespoon chopped chopped onion, onion, lightly lightly fried left in butter, butter, on on each each meat meat cake, cake, and and garnish garnish with with saut6ed sauted in potatoes. potatoes. Beefsteak tartare. tartare. BIFTEcK BIFTECK A r.l LA r.cnrARE TART ARE - Proceed as Beefsteak - Proceed as in the the recipe recipe for for Beefsteak Beefsteak d I'amiricaine l'amricaine but but omit omit described in described theraweggyolk. Serve Tar Tartare sauce separately (see (seeSAUCE). the raw egg yolk. Serve t ar e s auce separately SAUCE). 102 t02

Bifteck i la la tartarc tartare (Ledoyen. (Ledoyen. Phot. Phol. Nicolas) Nicolas) Bifteck

BEEF BEEF
( ro sse (rosse

Gite de derriirc derrire Aiguillelte

Aloyau for roosting Aloyou
Tcnde Tende de de tronche tronche Gile Gite d lo 10 noir noix { Tlonche Tranche gtotse grosse ou ou rond rond Romsteck Romsteck

(ulolte

filel
filet (conlre-lilet

t lonchet Flanchet
Eovelle

Foux

Ong

let

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ofbeef French cuts cuts of French beef

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Cold Left-over DEssERTE -- Left-over DE DESSERTE BouILLI DE soruF BOUILLI boiled beef. beef. BOEUF Cold boiled pieces various with various served with pieces of cut in in thick thick slices, slices, served beef, cut of boiled boiled beef, sauces. sauces. r, LA rn Cold rRotn parisienne. BOEUF BoUILLI FROID BoEUF BOUILLI i la la parisienne. Cold boUed boiled beef beef on aa PARISIENNE Arrange on thin slices. slices. Arrange beef into thin boiled beefinto Cut the the boiled IARISIENNE -- Cut long with boiled boiled potatoes row. Garnish Garnish with long dish dish in in aa straight straight row. (peeled beans, (peeled and tomatoes, French beans, in slices), sliced tomatoes, and cut cut in slices), sliced quarters any other other quarters of watercress and and any eggs, watercress of hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs, vegetabJes onion with thin thin onion meat with Decorate the the meat vegetables in in season. season. Decorate rings, UCE) and (seeSA and SAUCE) sauce (see with Vinaigrette Vinaigrette sauce rings, and and sprinkle sprinkle with chopped cold. Serve cold. parsley, chervil chervil and and tarragon. tarragon. Serve chopped parsley, Left-over boiled beef can be various invarious be prepared in beefcan ofboiled Left-over piecesof ways, m fritot croquettes, kromeskies, en boulettes, croquettes, ways, including: boulettes, fritot (i.e. (i.e. fried enmiroton. fat), en miroton. in deep deepfat), fried in BoUed ntABrn- - Cut Cut ALA L.q,DIABLE BotnLLI BoEUF BOUlLLI diable. BOEUF beef i la ladiable. Boiled beef boiled sprinkle mustard, sprinkle withmustard, Spread with slices. Spread beef into into thick thick slices. boiled beef with white breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. with white and coat coatwith oil.and with melted melted butter butteror oroil, Grill golden. Serve with Servewith making both both sides sides golden. heat, making Grill on lowheat, onaalow Diable (see SAUCE). sauce(see SAUCE). Diable sauce 103 r03

soNcnotsB A LA r-,1 HONGROISE BoUILLI BoEUF BOUILLI hongroise. BOEUF beef nla la hongroise. Boiled beef Boiled in butter in in oil oil or or butter and saut saut6 in large dice, dice, and into large beef into the beef -- Cut Cut the lightly been lightly has been (4 oz., onion has chopped onion g. (4 cup) chopped oz.,l 100g. which 100 which 1 cup) (se SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). paprika.Add Crearn sauce AddCream with paprika. Season with fried. Season fried. sAUcE BoUILLI SAUCE BoEUFBOUILLI sauoe. BOEUF horseradish sauce. with horseradish Boiled beef beef with Boiled sauce Horseradish sauce with Horseradish thestockpot stockpot with from the Beef from RAIFoRT - - Beef RAIFORT (seeSAUCE) separatelY. servedseparately. SAUCE) served (see AL'INDIENNE I'tNomNNB - BouILu BoEuF BOUILLI l'indienne. BOEUF beef n l'indienne. Boiled beef Boiled powder curry powder substitutingcurry lahongroise, hongroise, substituting beef dla LlkeBoiled Boiled beef Like (seeRICE). RICE). separately(see I'indienrcseparately paprika. Serve Ricedl'indienne Serve Rice for paprika. for (old recipe). BoUILLI BoELJFBOUILLI recipe).BOEUF pauvrehomme homme (old aupauvre Boiled beef beefau Boiled pAUvREHOMME cut into intoslices, slices, beef,eut boiled beef, Left-over boiled HoMIVIE- - Left-over AUPAUVRE AU and onions pepper, chopped spring on withsalt, salt,pepper, sprinkled ions and sprinkled with stock' offthe thestockor fat skimmed off dripping or parsley.Add [ttle dripping Adda!ittle parsley. breadandbreadwater,and glassof orwater, garlic,aaglass ofstock stockor pot,aapinch pinchof ofgarlic, pot, hot quarter of houron onhot anhour ofan forquarter tosimmer simmerfor Leave ta crumbs. crumbs.Leave greattreat by treatby (Thisdish, consideredaagreat wasconsidered said,was dish,ititisissaid, ashes. ashes.(This Louis XV.) LouisXV.) BourLLI SAUCE sAUcE BoEUF BOUILLI piquante sauce. sauce.BOEUF Boiled withpiquante beefwith Boiled beef

BEEF BEEF
piquantesauce IIeUANTE - Beef Beef from fromthe thestock stockpot, with Piquante sauce pot, with (see SAUCE) served separately. (see SAUCE) served separately. Boiled beef pnovsxprovengale. BOEUF beef t la la provenale. BoETJF BOUILLI BourLLr ALA r,.lPROVENBoiled Prepare as Boiled beef d la hongroise, 9ALE; substituting for ALE - Prepare as Boiled beef la hongroise, substituting for the cream cream sauce sauce an an equal quantity of equalquantity Tomato fondue (see ofTomaLO fondue(see the FONDUE) fiavoured flavoured with garlic. Sprinkle with garlic. Sprinkle with withchopped chopped FONDUE) parsley. parsley. Boiled beef beef with with root root vegetables. vegetables. BOEUF sosuFBOUILLI BourLLr AUX Arrx Boiled nlctxss- Boiled beef beef served withvarious served with various stock stockpotvegetables, RACINES- Boiled pot vegetables, as carrots, such as carrots, tumips, turnips, leeks. leeks. such gherkins, pickles, Sea salt, salt, gherkins, pickles, etc., etc., are are served served at at the thesa same me Sea time. time.
PIQUANTE -

Boiled beefsauted beefsauteed ila lyonnaise. BOEUF BoEuFBOUILLI Bourr,rr SAUT slurf ALA r,,c, la lyonnaise. Boiled (generous lIb.) g. (generous Cut 500 500 g. I lb.) boiled beef into small boiled beefinto small Cut slices and and fry fry in in cooking cooking fat fat or or buttr. butter.Add g. (8 (Boz., Add225 225g. o2.,2 slices 2 cups) chopped chopped on previously fried onions, fried in in butter. butter. Cook Cook cups) ions, previously together, season season with pepper. Sprinkle with salt salt and and pepper. Sprinkle with with chopped chopped together, parsley and (3 tablespoons) and 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) vinegar, vinegar, heated heated in in parsley pan in the pan in which which the the beef was cooked. beef was cooked. the Boild beef beef sauted sauteed Parmentier. Parmentier. BOEUF BoEuF BOUILLI BorlLLr SAUT SAUT6 Boiled IARMENTTER -- Cut Cut 2 2 medium-sized medium-sized potatoes potatoes into into large large dice dice PARMENTIER fry in and fry in butter. butter. When When nearly nearly done, done, remove remove from pan. In from the the pan. In and the same same butter butter brown (generous lib.) g. (generous brown 500 500 g. pieces of I lb.) cut-up cut-up pieces of the boiled beef. beef. Add Add the potatoes and the potatoes and fry fry everything everything together. together. boiled Sprinkle with parsley. with chopped chopped parsley. Sprinkle Boiled beef beef with with tomato tomato sauce. sauce. BOEUF BoEUF BOUILLI Bor.JrLLr, SAUCE sAUcE Boiled ToMATE Beef from from the the stockpot stockpot with with Tomato Tomatosauce (see sauce (see - Beef TOMATE SAUCE) served served separately. separately. SAUCE) Beef bouillon. bouillon. BOUILLON BourLLoN DE DE BOEUF BoEUF -- This This stock, stock, which which Beef constitutes the the basis basis of of c1ear clear soups, soups, is is also also used used for for moistenmoistenconstitutes ing sauces. sauces. ing Beef stock stock is is obtained obtained by by cooking cooking lean lean beef with with carrots, carrots, Beef leeks, celery onions, leeks, celery and parsnips in water for and parsnips for about about 4 hours. hours. onions, When the the stock stock is is to to be be served as soup, turnips are served as are added. added. When For the the method method of of preparation stock, see see SOUP, SOUp, For preparation of beef stock, Clear soup. Clear soup. Braised beef. ESTOUFFADE rsrouFFADE DE DE BOEUF BoEUF Fry lightly lightly 300 g. 300 g. Braised beef. - Fry (11 oz.) oz.) lean, diced bacon bacon in in butter. Drain, and and (II lean, blanched, blanched, diced butter. Drain, in (3* lb.) fry l* kg. kg. (3t lb.) beef, beef, cut cut into into pieces, in the the same same butter butter fry each (4 oz.). g. (4 oz.). Add Add 3 3 medium-sized medium-sized each weighing weighing about about 100 100 g. quarters. Season onions Season with pepper, add with salt and and pepper, add onions cut cut into into quarters. pounded crushed clove of garlic. pounded thyme, thyme, bay bay leaf leaf and a crushed When sprinkle in Wh en all ail these these ingredients ingredients are well weil browned, sprinkle 2 flour. Let flour colour 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) fiour. Let the the fiour slightly, (lf pints, slightly, stirring stirring all ail the time. time. Moisten Moisten with with I 1 litre (li generous quart) red red wine wine and and the the same amount am ou nt of stock. generous quart) Blend add a a bouquet bouquet garni garni (q.v.'1and (q.v.) and bring to the boil. Blend well, weil, add Cover Coyer the the pan pan and and cook cook in in a slow oven oyen for 2| 2-!- to 3 hours. Drain Drain on on a a sieve sieve placed placed over a a bowl. Put the the pieces of beef beef and and bacon bacon into into a a pan, pan, add add to to them 300 300 g. (ll (II oz.) mushrooms, rooms, sliced sliced and and saut6ed sauted in in butter. butter. Skim surplus surplus fat fat off the the sauce; sauce; boil boil it it down, down, strain, and pour pour over over the meat. meat. Simmer gently for for 25 25 minutes. minutes. Sim mer gently Brisket. POITRINE DE DE BoEUF BOEUF - This This part part of of beef beef is is used used for Brisket. porrRrNE the the stockpot. stockpot. It It can can also also be be cooked cooked as as Forequarterflank. Forequarter flank. Carbonades Carbonades of of beef beef I la la flamande. flamande. c.qnsoNA,DEs CARBONADES DE DE BoEUF BOEUF pr,lrulNDE - Cut A m LA FLAMANDE Cut 750 750 g. g. (l* (li lb.) lb.) lean lean beef beef (thick (thick skirt, or or chuck) chuck) into into thin thin slices. slices. Season Season with with salt salt and and pepper, pepper, brown brown quickly quickly on on both both sides sides in in sizzling sizzling fat fat (lard (lard or or clarified clarified stock stock fat). fat). Remove Remove from from the the pan pan and and in in the the same same fat fat fry fry 4 4 mediummediumsized sized chopped chopped onions on ions until until golden. golden. Put Put the the beefand beef and onions onions into into a a casserole casserole in in alternate alternate layers layers and and add add a a bouquet bouquet garni garni (q.v.). (q.v.). Dilute (1 pint,2| pint, 2-!- cups) cups) beer beer and and a a Dilute the the pan panjuices juices with with 6 6 dl. dl. (l few tablespoons stock. stock. Thicken Thicken with with 3 3 tablespoons tablespoons (scant (scant few tablespoons cup) Brown Brown roux roux (see (see ROUX), ROUX), add add a a tablespoon tablespoon brown brown *t cup) sugar, sugar, stir, stir, cook cook for for a a few few moments moments and and strain strain through through a a fine onto the themeat. meat. finesieve sieveonto LyoNNArsELYONNAISE -

Bringto tothe theboil, boil,coyer coverwith witha alid, lid,and andcook cookin inthe Bring theoyen oven 2|hours. hours. 2+ Carbonades of ofbeef beefwitb withlambic lambic(Belgian cookery). CARCarbonades cen@elgiancookery). BoNADES DE DBBOEUF BoEr.JFAU AULAMBIC LAMBTc- -Cut Cutthe thebeef beefinto intoslices BONADES slicesand and fryas asdescribed describedabove abovein inthe therecipe recipefor forCarbonades Carbonadesof fry ofbeef beef laflamande. dla flamande. Removefrom fromthe panand thepan andin inthe thesame samefat fatfry frythe Remove theonions. onions. Brown Iightly, lightly,sprinkle good tablespoon sprinklein inaagood tablespoon of Brown flourand offiour and cookfor foraafew few moments. moments. cook Futthe thebeef beefslices intoaacasserole, slicesinto casserole, season, season,add addaabouquet Put bouquet -and garni (q.v.), (q.v.), moisten moistenwithlambic with lambic (strong (strong Belgian Belgianbeer),and garni beer), bring to the boil. Cover the casserole withaalid bring to the boil. Coyer the casserole with lidand andcook cookin inaa hot oyen ovenfor for2~ Zlhours. hot hours.

Chateaubriand Chateaubriand

1+

Chateaubriand -- Thick Chateaubriand ken from Thick slice slice of beef fillet fillet ta of beef taken from the the middle of of the the fillet, middle fillet, weighing weighing between between 400 g. (14 (14 oz. 400 and and 800 800 g. oz. and li lf lb.). lb.). It It is and is usually grilled, garnished usually grilled, garnished with with- Chteau Chhteau (see POTATOES) POTATOES) and potatoes (see (see and served with Colbert served with Colbert sauce sauce (see SAUCE) or or Matre Mattre d'htel SAUCE) (see BUTTER). d h6tel buller butter (see BUTTEP(\. ChateauChateaubriand can can either briand either be be fried, fried, or or cQoked cooked in in any any way way suitable suitable for for T-bone steak, fiUets fillets and T -bone steak, and rump steak. steak. Grtlled. Brush Brush the Grilled. the chateaubriand chateaubriand with with butter, butter, and and season. season. place under First place juices, then under a First a hot grill to hot grill to seal seal the the juices, lower then lower the heat heat and and continue the continue cooking, cooking, keeping keeping it it a a little little underunderdone. Fried. Season Fried. Season the the chateaubriand, chateaubriand, and and saut saut6 in in hot hot butter. butter. Fry briskly briskly but Fry but on on a a medium medium Bame, flame, to to avoid avoid the meat the meat becoming dry. dry. Keep Keep underdone. Garnish Garnish and and serve serve with with a a sauce sauce made from from the diluted diluted pan juices. garnishes recommended The garnishes The recommended for for T-bone, T-bone, rump rump steaks, steaks, tournedos and and small fil1et fillet steaks are are applicable to to chateauchateaubriands. briands. Contre-filetContre-fiIet- Cut ofmeat of meat located located above the loins and and chine of the animal, c1assed classed in the first category of beef. beef. It It can can be be grilled grilled or, after being boned, trimmed trimmed and and dressed, it it can can be be roasted roasted or braised. braised. Grilled. Cut into thick slices Gritted. slices and grill as T-bone or or rump steaks. steaks. Roast. See CULINARY METHODS, METHODS, Average Average cooking Roast. See cooking timesfor times for roasts. Proceed as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for Braised. Proceed Braised. for Braised beef Sened Served as a a remove, remove, the contre-flet,braisd contre-filet, braised or or roasted, roasted, beef. is accompanied accompanied by by vegetables. vegetables. It is very good good served served cold. cold. is l,ancienne. l'ancienne. coNTRE-Frrsr CONTRE-FILET snetsf BRAIS A Contre-filet braised i L'ANClENNE - Proceed Proceed as described in in the the recipe recipe for Top L'ANcIENNE for Top below). rump braised braised d I'ancienne l'ancienne (see below). rump Contre-filet braised braised A la bourgeoise. bourgeoise. coNrns-FTLET CONTRE-FILET snarsf BRAIS Contrefilet r,c, LA nouncEorsE BOURGEOISE - Proceed as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for A - Proceed as Top of of rump rump d la la bourgeorse bourgeoise (see (see below). below). Top CONTRE-FILET FRorD FROID Contre-filet cold, cold, with with various various salads. salads. coNTRE-FTLET Contre-filet GARNI - Arrange Arrange as as described, described for for Contre-filet Contre-filet jellied jellied (see (see cARNI

104 t04

BEEF
(Cr6ole cookery). BOEUF Ln CROLE la Crole BoEtIF A cnfore i la Cr6ole (Crole Beef LA a casserole, a tablespoon of olive olive oil into a Put some fat and a for as for and add 2 sliced onions. Cut the beef in large pieces as Beef ragottts (see below), and put them on this bed of of onions. Bee! ragots garlic, a a clove of garlic, a sprig Add a a tablespoon tomato sauce, sauce, a Add few pinches of saffron. and a a few saffron. Cook and parsley and of thyme thyme and for 3 hours with the lid on. The beef and the onions gently for juice, but if if at the end of cooking cooking the juice give out juice, juice becomes Ifthere ofwater water or stock. If there too concentrated, add a few drops of is too much it down. mu ch sauce, boil boil it BoEUF is prepared Daube of beef. DAUBE DE BOEUF - This old dish is in different ways in different regions. in different in different regions. Basically, it consists (q.v.) in braising a daubire daubiire (q. of a piece of beef, beef, cooked in in a v.) in a piece wine added to it. In some provinces liquor, with white or red wine whole, is cooked who le, in the meat (usually taken from the rump) is escalopes. others it is cut into square pieces or thick escalopes. others Prepared in this way, the daubes are very similar sirnilar to Braised Prepared beef. I'ancienne. DAUBE DE DE BOEUF BoEUF A l'nNcrsNNB i l'ancienne. Daube of beef L'ANCIENNE (strips of salt a piece rump with with thick thick lardoons lardoons (strips piece of rump - Lard a pork) for a a few few hours in white and marinate marinate for hours in white wine wine and pork) and with sliced carrots and and onions, brandy, sliced carrots onions, parsley, brandy, together together with parsley, asfor leaf and pounded garlic. Proceed as for Top rump thyme, bay leaf (see below). la bearnaise. DE BOEUF BoEUF A LA ra BARsfeni la Daube of beef barnaise. DAUBE DE (4+ lb.) beef, taken from rump or shoulder NAIsE NAISE - Cut 2 kg. (4} each of these of beef, into 5-cm. (2-inch) square pieces. Lard each (strip of salt pieces with a a thick thick lardoon (strip salt pork), which has pork), which garlic, seasoned and garlic, been rolled rolled in in chopped parsley and seasoned with been powdered thyme with brandy. leaf, and and bay leaf, and sprinkled sprinkled with thyme and Leave to 2 hours to marinate for 2 hours in in red red wine wine and and brandy, Leave marinate for and onions, a a sprig of parsley with sliced carrots and parsley and thyme, daubiire (q.v.) with slices and a a bay leaf. Line a a daubire and slices of Bayonne and sliced ham, alternating with with layers layers of of carrots carrots and ha m, alternating ions sliced on onions which have lightly fried fried in lard or goose fat. fat. Dry the have been lightly in lard which pieces of beef, dredge with flour, flour, and and put them in in layers layers in dredge with garni (q.v.). (q.v.). Bring the stock daubidre. Add a a bouquet garni the the daubire. stoek in which the was marinated marinated to add 2 the meat was to the the boil. 2 cru crushed which boil, add shed and simmer for 25 minutes. Strain and pour cloves of garlic, and meat. There should enough liquor liquor to cover the over the meat. should be enough meat completely; completely; if not, not, add add a a few few tablespoons meat meat stock. meat stock. daubiire with with a a lid, lid, sealing it with with a strip Cover Cover the the daubire sealing it strip of flour-and-water paste. Bring to the flour-and-water the boil on top of the the stove, maintaining an even heat, for for4 then cook in the oven, maintaining 4 hours. in the having first flrst removed removed the daubiire, having Serve Serve in the daubire, the bouquet garni and and skimmed off surplus fat. garni B6arn, this daube is served with broyo instead instead of bread. In Barn,

(Iarousse) Preparation Preparation of contre-filet contre-filet (Larousse)

artichoke hearts, harda salad, below). Serve with with a below). salad, stuffed artichoke boiled eggs, boiled eggs, lettuce hearts, etc. LA GELE cBI-Er LA Contre-filet jeUied. CONTRE-FILET coNTRE-FILET A Contre-filet jellied. - Useful for serving left-over pieces of roast contre-filet. Trim the piece, coat with with slightly coloured jelly, garnish with coloured strong strong aspic jelly, cro0tons round and put jelly chopped jelly jelly and watercress, and jelly crotons and watercress,
the border of of the serving servine dish.

Contre-filet Contre-filet

garnishes. CONTRE-FILET Contre-filet cARNI coNtne-FILET GARNI Contre-filet with with garnishes. - The method of for this meat. For For their their method following following are are suitable this meat. suitable for (Those followed preparation followed by preparation see by the GARNISHES. (Those see GARNISHES. (b) are letter letter (b) are suitable for Braised contre-filet. suitable for B i atr ix, bouquetire, Algrienne, b ou que t ii r e, ienne, alsacienne als ac ienne (b), anversoise, anv e r s o is e, Batrix, Algir (b), Br bourguignonne Brillat-Savarin, chdt elaine, illat - Savar in, bruxelloise, brux e lloise, chtelaine, bour guignonne (b), du che s s e, fav or it e, chipolata chipolata sausages (b), Clamart, C lamar t, dauphine, duchesseJavorite, (b), fr ang ai s e, hongroise,jardinire, I angu e do c i e nn e, flamande amande '(b),jranaise, h o ng r o i s e, j ar d inii r e, languedocienne, fl (b), macdoine, (b), lyonnaise lorraine marqichire, mentonlorraine (b), lyonnaise (b), macidoine, marachre, naise, pimontaise, nivernaise, orientale, piimontaise, naise, moderne, moderne, nioise, nigoise, nivernaise, por r omaine, sarde. portugaise, pritanire, provenale, ov engale, Richelieu, Riche lieu, romaine, tugaise, pr itanii r e, pr The contre-filet can can also be served with buttered or braised pasta green vegetables, potatoes, macaroni ta green macaroni and and other other pas vegetables, potatoes, pur6e of dried products, rich pilaf, risotto, and dried vegetables. rich pilaf, and pure gratin. COQUILLES DE BOEUF BoEUF Coquilles (scallop sheUs) coeuILLES DE shells) au au gratin. AU with half-slices of of boiled AU GRATIN cRATIN Line scallop scallop shells shells with - Line (see potatoes sauce (see ltalian sauce potatoes which been coated with [tahan have been coated with which have SAUCE). boiled beef cut up and fil! fill with thin slices slices of cold boiled SAUCE), and and small. with cheese cheese and small. Cover Cover with with more more sauce, sauce, sprinkle sprinkle with breadcrumbs and brown in the oven. preparing hot and A number of recipes for and cold cold coquilles for preparing will be found found under HORS-D'(EUVRE, Scallop Scallop shells. under HORS-D'UVRE,
105 105

provengale Daube Daube J la provenale d la

BEEF BEEF
Daube of of beef beeflii la provengale. DAUBE la provenale. o.lunr DE on BOEUF sosur A LA re Daube Cut the pieces, lard the beef beef into into pies, lard them them and and PROVENALE - - Cut marinate for for 2 2 hours as described above, but using white wine marinate hours as described above, but using white wine instead of red and of red and adding adding 3 (scant f,cup) 3tablespoons tablespoons (scant;\cup) oil oil to it. to il. instead pieces Drain the pieces of put them of beef beef and and put them into into aa daubire daubiire which which Drain tbe should be be large large enough enough to to take take al] all the the ingredients, ingredients. Spread Spread in in should layers, alternating alternating with with frcsh fresh bacon bacon rinds rinds eut cut into into small small dice, dice, layers, blanched, diccd diced bacon, bacon, sliced sliced carrots, carrots, chopped chopped onions, onions, raw raw blanched, chopped mushrooms, mushrooms, peeled peeled and and chopped chopped tomatoes, pountomatoes, pounchopped garlic and ded c10ves cloves of of garlic and stoned black olives. olives. Put Put a a bouquel stoned black bouquet ded (q.v.) in garni (q.v.) in the the middle middle of of ail all these these ingredients ingredients and, and, besides besides garni the usual usual aromatic aromatic herbs, herbs, add add a piece of a small small piece of bitter bitter orange orange the peel. peel. Pour the the marinating marinating Iiquor liquor over over the the whole, whole, add add some some Pour veal stock, stock, and and coyer, cover, sealing lid with sealing the the lid with a a strip flourstrip of of flourveal paste. Cook and-water paste, Cook in in a a moderate moderate oyen for 5 oven for 5 or or 6 6 hours. hours. and-water Serve in in the the daubire, daubiire, having having !irst first removed removed the the bvuquel bouquet Serve garni and and skimmed skimmed off offsurplus fat. garni surplus fat. Entrec0te or or Steak Steak Entrecbte is part of is the the part of the the meat meat - Entrecte Entrecte between the the bones bones of ribs of of the the ribs of beef. beef. A A slice slice ta from taken between ken from the con/refile! contre-filet or from the or from the rUll]p rump is is often often served served under under this this the name. name. The real real entrecte entrecite is grilled; a is usually usually grilled; a slice slice of of contrefile/, contre-filet, The often called called rump rump steak steak in in France, France, is is sometimes sometimes fried fried in in often butter. butter. These steaks generally boned steaks are are generally boned before grilled. before being being grilled, These pieces are When the the pieces are thick, thick, however, however, rib rib bones bones are are left left on. on. When Grilled. Trim Trim and and flatten flatten the the steak, steak, brush with butter butter or or Grilled. brush with oil, season season and and cook cook under grill, tirst under a a grill, first on on a a brisk brisk and and then then on on oil, a lowered lowered hea!. heat. Arrange Arrange and and serve serve as as indicated indicated in in the the recipe. recipe. a Sautded. Trim Trim and and flatten flatten the the steak, steak, season season il it and and saut saut6 Sauted. briskly in butter. Arrange and garnish as and garnish indicated in as indicated in the the briskly in butter. Arrange juices Ieft recipe. Pour Pour over over it it the the pan left over over from frying, rectpe. pan Juices from frying, having diluted them and finished as described described in having diluted them and tinished off off as in the the recipe. recipe. In steak taken confie-filet, ln France, France, a a steak taken from from ribs ribs of of beef, beef, or or con/refile/, (about I g. (about of 500 g. considered sufficient sufficient for of 400 400 to to 500 1 lb.) lb.) is is considered for four four persons. persons. Entrec0te Steak i Entrecte or or Steak la la b6arnaise barnaise - Grill Grill the the steak, steak, and and garnish (see POTATOES) and watergarnish with with Chdteau Chteau potatoes potatoes (see POTATOES) and water(s*, cress. Serve Bdarnaise sauce SAUCE) cress, Serve Barnaise sauce (sec SAUCE) separately. separately. EntrecOte Entrecte or or Steak Steak I la la Bercy Bercy - Grill Grill the the steak steak and and cover coyer with with Bercy Bercy butter butter (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). butters) , .Grand-mlre'Entrec0te Entrecte or or Steak Steak i la la bonne bolll.le femme, femme, or or 'Grand-mre' Saut Saute the the steak steak in in butter, butter, browning browning on on both both sides. sides. Surround Surround it glazed onions, it in in the the pan pan with with 12 12 small small glazed onions, 2 2 blanched blanched potatoes potatoes cut eut small, small, and and 50 50 g. g, (2 (2 oz.') oz.) diced diced and and blanched blanched salt salt pork pork or or bacon. bacon. Cook Cook all ail together. together. Arrange Arrange in in an an earthenware earthenware dish, dish, with with the the garnish garnish surrounding surrounding it. il. Dilute Dilute the the butter butter left left in in the the pan pan with with + dl. dl. (3 (3 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seanl * t cup) cup) stock stock or or water water and and pour pour over over the the dish. dish, Sprinkle Sprinkle with witb chopped chopped parsley. parsley, Entrec0te la bordelaise Entrecte or or Steak Steak ila bordelaise - Grill Grill the the steak. steak. Arrange Arrange on on a a dish dish and and place place l0 10 slices sJices of of poached poached and and drained drained bone bone marrow marrow on on top. top. Serve Serve with with Bordelaise Bordelaise sauce sauce (se (sec SAUCE). SAUCE). The The steak steak can can also also be be served served saut6ed, sauted, with with the the pan pan juices juices added added to to the the sauce. sauce. Entrec0te Entrecte or or Steak Steak i la la bourguignonne bourguignonne - Sautd Saut the the entreentrecdte in butter, butter, and and garnish garnisb d la la bourguignonne bourguignonne (see (sec GARGARcte in NISHES). NISHES), Dilute Dilute the the pan pan juices juices with with I 1 dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seant ]1cup) cup) red red wine, wine, add add I1dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seant *t cup) cup) demi-glace demi-glace (q.v.), (q,v.), boil boil down, down, strain strain and and pour pour over over the the dish. dish. Entrec6te or Steak Entrecte or Steak Dumas Dumas -- Season Season and and cook cook conte-filet contre-filet steaks steaks over over a a high high heat. hea!. Lay Lay them them on on a a heated heated meat roeat plate plate and and place place 3 3 slices slices of of previously previously cooked cooked beef beef marrow marrow on on each. each. . Make a sauce with the residue Make a sauce with the residue left left in in the the pan pan by by adding adding I1dl. * cup) dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seant! cup) dry dry white whitewine wine and and 2table2 tablespoons spoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) chopped cbopped shallots. shal.lots. Boil Boil down down by by
pRovENqALE
106 106

three-quarters. Pour (6 tablespoons, Pour in in 1I dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, seant} scant * cup) cup) three-quarlers. veal stock stock and and bring bring to to the the boil. boil. Boil Boil for for one one minute, minute. Add Add veal (4oz., g. (4 100g. oz., cup) butter butter and and season season to to taste, taste. 100 * cup) Sprinkle Ihe the steaks pepper and steaks wilh with pepper and chopped chopped parsley. parsley. Sprinkle Coat with with the (Recipe from the sauce sauce and and serve. serve. (Recipe from the the Restaurant Restaurant Coat Lasserre.) Lasserre,) Entrec0te or or Steak Steak la Ia fermire fermilre - Prepare Prepare Steak Steak d la la Entrecte bonne femme, replacing the garnish indicated the garnish indicated for for that recipe that recipe bonne femme, replacing by I! l{ dl. pint, dl. (! (see FONDUE). cup) Vege/able Vegetable fondue FONDUE). t, j3 cup) by $ pin fondue (see juices, diluted Pour over pan juices, over il it the the pan diluted with with white white wine wine and and Pour thickened veal veal stock. stock. thickened Entrec0te or or Steak Steak la la forestire forestilre - Prepare Prepare Steak Steak wi/h with Entrecte (see below), mushrooms 1 I or or JJ II (see below), replacing replacing the the mushrooms mushrooms by by mushrooms garnish called the garnish called (see GARNISHES). d laforestire la forestiCre (see GARNISHES). the Entrec6te or or Steak Steak I la Ia hongroise hongroise Season the the steak steak with with Entrecte - Season paprika, and and saut saut6 it it in in butter. butter. When When three-quarters three-quarters done, done, paprika, add a a tablespoon tablespoon chopped chopped anion, onion, lightly fried fried in in butter butter and and add juices with with salt paprika. Dilute seasoned with salt and and paprika. Dilute the pan juices the pan with seasoned (6 tablespoons, 1 dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, seant (6 cup) white scant t white wine, wine, add add 1 I dl. dl. (6 1 * cup) tablespoons, scant (se, SAUCE). scant cup) thin thn Velout Veloutd sauce sauce (see SAUCE). tablespoons, * cup) Cook for for a a few few moments and and pour pour over over the the steak. steak. Serve Serve Cook with boiled potatoes. boiled potatoes. wilh Entrecdte or or Steak Steak la la lyonnaise lyonnaise 1 I Sauti: Saut6 the the steak in steak in Entrecte butter. When When three-quarters three-quarters done, (3 done, add add 2 2 Lablespoons tablespoons (3 butter. tablespoons) chopped on lightly fried onion fried in in butter. butter. Dilute tablespoons) ion lightly juices wilh pan juices the pan with 1 I tablespoon tablespoon vinegar and 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 the tablespoons) white white wine, (6 tablespoons, wine, add add 1 I dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, seant scant t Lablespoons) crtp\ demi-glace (q.v.); (q.v.); bail boil down, add a a tablespoon chopped cup) parsley pour over the steak. and pour parsley and Entrec0te or or Steak Steak la la lyonnaise lyonnaise il tr - Cook Cook as as above. Entrecte juices with vinegar Dilute tbe the pan vinegar and white wine. Add stock, Dilute pan jllis and (see BUTTER, the sauce sauce with wirth Kneaded buller butter (see BUTTER, and thicken thicken the Compound bUl/ers). butters). Compound Entrec0te or Steak maltre d'hOtel Grill the steak. Serve Entrecte or matre d'htel - Grill the steak. with (see BUTTER, d'hbtel buller butter (see BUTTER, Compound Compound Matre d'htel with Mattre butters\., bUl/ers) Entrec0te or Steak Steak marchand Grill the Entrecte marchand .de .de vin vin - Grill the steak. steak, (see BUTTER, Serve Serve with with Marchandde Marchand de vinbutter vin buller (see BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). bUl/ers). EntrecO& Entrect~ or or Steak la la m6nag0re mnagre - Prepare as as Entrecite En/recte d la la bonne bonne femne. femme. Replace the garnish in in that Ihat recipe by by an equal equal quantity quantity of of small smaU glazed glazed onions, onions, mushrooms mushrooms and cooked cooked carrots. carrots, Pour Pour the the pan pan juices, juices, diluted dilllted with with white white wine wine and and thickened thickened veal veal stock, over the the dish. dish. Enhec0te Entrecte or Steak Steak I la minute minute - Flatten Flatten the the steak steak to to make make it it as as thin thin as as possible. possible. Season and saut6 saut in butter. butter. Add a few few drops drops of of lemon lemon juice juice and and half half a a tablespoon tablespoon of of chopped chopped parsley parsley to to the the butter butter in in which which it it was was cooked and pour pour over the the steak. steak. Entrec0te Entrecte or or Steak Steak Mirabeau Mirabeau - Grill Grill the the steak. steak. Arrange Arrange on on a a dish, dish, decorate decorate with with anchovy anchovy fillets !illets and and tarragon tarragon leaves, leaves, garnish garnish with with stoired, stoned, blanched blanched olives olives and and serve serve with with Anchovv Anchovy butter butters) buller (see (see BUTTER. BUTTER. Co,mpound Compound butters). Entrec0te Entrecte or or Steak Steak with witil mushrooms musbrooms I. J. ENTREcOTE ENTRECTE AUx AUX cHAMprcNoNs CHAMPIGNONS - Saut6 Saut the the steak steak in in butter. butter. When When threethreequarters quarters done, done, add add 8 8 mushroom mushroom caps, caps, and and finish finish cooking. cooking. Arrange Arrange the the mushrooms mllshrooms around around the the meat meal on on a a dish. dish. Dilute Dilute the the butter butter left left in in the the pan pan with with I1 dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant + ! cup) cup) white white wine, wine, add add I1 dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seant + cup) cup) demi-glace demi-glace (q.v-), (q.v.), boil boil down, down, strain, strain, add add a a teaspoon teaspoon fresh fresb butter, butter, and and pour pour over over the the meat. meat. Entrec6te Entrecte or or Steak Steak with with mushrooms mushrooms II. n. eNrnrc0TE ENTRECTE AUx AUX cHAMIIGNoNS CHAMPIGNONS - Proceed Proceed as as above. above. Dilute Dilute the the pan pan juices juices with with white white wine, wine, add add stock stock and and thicken thicken with with Kneaded Kneaded butter buller (see (sec BUTTER, BUTIER, Compound Compound butters). bullers). Entrec0te Entrecte or or Steak Steak i la la nigoise nioise - Saut6 Saut the the steak steak in in butter butter or or oil. oil. Arrange Arrange on on a a dish, dish, garnish garnish with with Tomato Tomalofondue fondue d la la nigoise nioise (see (sec TOMATO), TOMA TO), new new potatoes pOLatoes cooked cooked in in butter. butter, and and

BEEF

BEEF

(Rober t Carrier) MAabeatt (Robert Entrecote Mirabeau Entrecte Carrier)

and juices with wine and white wine with white pan juices the pan Dilute the black olives. Dilute black olives. steak' pour over the steak. over tbe and pour veal stock, stock, and tomato-flavoured tomato-flavoured veal top steak, top Grill the the steak, la tyrolienne tyrolienre -- Grill i la Entrecte Steak or Steak Entrec0te or of a border border of with a surround witb in butter, butter, surround fried in with ion rings rings fried onion with on chopped with chopped sprinkle with and sprinkle FONDUE), and Tomato fondue (see FONDUE), Tomatofondui(see parsley. parsley. ' Entrecte garnish the steak, steak, garnish Grill the vert-pre -- Grill au vert-pr or Steak Steak au EnhecOte or waterof waterbunches of with bunches alternating with potatoes alternating with with straw straw potatoes (see BUTTER, BUTTER, butter (see d hiltel butter Mattre d'htel with Matre cress, and serve serve with cress, and Compound butters). Compound butters). (Austrian cookery) cookery) -viennoise (Austrian la viennoise Entrecte Steak i la or Steak Entrec0te or and salt and with salt season with thoroughly, season flatten thoroughly, Beat to fiatten the steak steak to Beat the Covel lard'Cover in lard. briskly in and saut saut6 briskly flour, and with flour, paprika, paprika, dredge dredge with drained, lard, drained, in lard, fried in been fried have been which bave with rings which wiih onion onion rings vinegar. and vinegar. and butter and with butter dressed with and dressed potatoes separately. separately. Serve boiled potatoes Serve boiled meat Concentrated meat BoEUF - - Concentrated DEBOEUF mseNcn DE Beef essence. ESSENCE Beef essence. (seebelow). below)' Beef-tea(see juice under Beef-tea described juice prepared as described under prepared as - Filets mignons - These ofthe the endof theend from the taken from cutsare aretaken Filets mignons - Thesecuts triggle; of atriangle; shapeofa theshape intothe trimmed into is trimmed fillet. migilonis fillet. Tbefilet Thelle tmignon too Ifititisistoo fillet'If thefillet. ofthe sizeof totbe thesize its varies according according to itsweight weighivaries twofilets provide two thusprovide andthus intwo twoand filets big, dividedin itcan canbe bedivided big, it mignons. mignons. forthe the usedfor beused alsobe canalso ofbeef beefcan Tbis filletof partof thefillet Thispart oftbe qtick pilafsand andquick bitki,pilafs onskewers, skewers,bitki, preparation pt"pataiion of steakon ofsteak sauts. saut6s. dip it,dip seasonit, slightly,season mignonslightly, Grilled. thefilet Flattenthe Gritted.Flatten filetmignon pressing breadcrumbs, pressing withbreadcrumbs, coverwith andcover into butterand meltedbutter intomelted breadcrumbs thebreadcrumbs makethe tomake knifeto partof theknife with ofthe flatpart withthe thefiat under cook and butterand meltedbutter withmelted adhere cook under properfu.Sprinkle Sprinklewith adhereproperly. recommended garnishand andsauce sauce aa low Serve with garnish recommended the withthe grill.-Serve lowgrill. the inbreadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, the cooked in fillet cooked in filletisis the recipe.As Asthe inthe therecipe.
107 107

served separately' be served it should should be accompanying it sauce accompanying sauce separately. piattin it"Ttet mignon, season' and saut6 briskly Sautied. Flatten Sauted. thefilet mignon, season, and saut briskly recommended sauce and the garnish a with a garnish and the sauce recommended Serve with in butter. butter. Serve in recipe. in the in the recipe. ways suitable for enin ways prepared in be prepared car. be mignon can Filet mignon Filet suitable for enescalopes of veal, for escalopes cuts, for other cuts, and other steaks and rump steaks treciltes, rump trectes, of veal, do s. t ourne and tournedos. noise tte sand noisettes lard and en cheweuil - Trirn, flatten slightly, mignons en Filets mignons Filets chevreuil - Trim, flatten slightly, and lard them in a rosette inserting bacon, of with strips the fillets the fillets with strips of bacon, inserting them in a rosette 24 to 28 hours in the summer' fot 24 pattern. Leave to marinate marinate for Leave to pattern'. to 28 ho urs in thesummer, (see MARINADES)' winter inthe thewin days in from 33to to44days from ter (see MARINADES). and dry them in a marinadeand the marinade of the out of fiiletsout Take the the fillets Take dry them in a in clarified butter or oil' possible quickly as as Saut6 cloth. clotho Saut as quickly as possible in clarified butter or oil. andsauce sauce recommended in the recipe' garnishand withth thegarnish Serve with recommended in the recipe. Serve garnishes for appropriate garnishes most appropriate arethe the most following are The following The for chestnuts, onions' They can lentils,chestnuts, celeriac, lentils, enchevreuil: chevreuil: celeriac, fileten filet onions. They can pilaf' risotto, noodles, rice dried noodles, ordried freshor with fresh also be beserved servedwith also rice pilaf, risotto, etc. etc. prepared au chausseur, d la be also can chevreuil Filetsen enchevreuil can also be prepared au Filets chausseur, la en venison, etc' laromaine, romaine, en poivrade lapoivrade, hongroise , , dla hongroise, dla venison, etc. BoEUF - The fillet is the undercut of DEBOEUF rtt.srDE beei.FILET Filletof ofbeef. Fillet - The fillet is the undercut of used for making tournedos and fillet of the end The sirloin. sirloin. Tbe end of the fillet isisused for making tournedos and the fat and sinews afterthe fillet,after of the middle The mignons. filetsmignons. The middle of the fiIlet, filets fat and sinews delicate roasts' or, cut anddelicate tenderand makestender removed, makes havebeen beenremoved, bave roasts, or, cut fillet,less delicate in ofthe the topof grills.The Thetop deliciousgrills. intoslices, slices,delicious into fillet, less delicate in roasted or grilled. middle,isis the thanthe more sinewythan taste,more sinewy middle, roasted or grilled. taste, Cut into thick sinews' andsinews. skinand removingskin fillet,removing thefillet, Trimthe Trirn Cut into thick as grilled fillet, chateaubriand, a as be servedas a chateaubriand, as tobe slices slices ififititisis to served grilled fillet, mignon. or tournedos,or filetmignon. tournedos, filet and lard it with filletand thefillet trimthe whole,trirn biserved servedwhole, Ifititisistotobe If lard it with rashers and secure with withrashers bard orbard bacon;or ofbacon; stripsof thinstrips tbin with and secure with accordfry orbraiseit, a spit, on or oven the doast'itin string. string. Roastit in the oven or on a spit, fry or braise it, accord-

BEEF BEEF
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Division of a fil let of beef: ')lt",l".""|il'l:"'"'ifii,,.,.,""*., 1. Beefsteak; 2. Chateaubriand; 3. Fillet steaks; 4. Tournedos; Filetsmignons mignons 4. Tournedos; s.5.Filets

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Filletof ofbeef perigorudire.FILET beef rnrrDE nrBOEUF soeuF rA, Fillet i lalaprigourdine. A LA pfnrcounolNe -Insert Insertslivers slivers of intothe trufreinto the fillet,bard bard of truffte fillet, it,tie tiewith withstring stringand andbraise braise Madeira-flavoured braising braising it, inin Madeira-flavoured stock.Drain, Drain,remove removebarding bardingbacon glaze. baconand and glaze. Surround stock. Surround withslices grastossed slicesoffoie of foiegras in tossed butter,and and tartlets filled with with in butter, tartlets filled with (q.v.)of salpicon(q.v.) oftruffles. trufles.Boil Boildown downthe the braisingliquor, braising aasalpicon liquor, pourover strain,and andpour overthe thefillet. fillet. strain, pRrNcE Filletof ofbeef beef hinceAJbert. Albert.FILET FrLET DE BoETJF ALBERT FiUet Prince DE BOEUF PRINCE ALBERT Lardaatrimmed trimmedfillet filletof ofbeef beefwith withthin thinstrips stripsof - - Lard ofbacon. bacon. Slitthe thefillet filletopen openwithout withoutcompletely completely separatingthe Slit separating thetwo two
PRIGOURDINE -

for braising, braising, frying, frying, roasting, roasting, under under CULINAR CULINARY y for METHODS. METHOOS. When the fillet is cooked, untie thestring and remove string and removethe the Wh en the fillet is cooked, untie the barding. Arrange Arrange on on aa heated heateddish, dish, surround surround with with the garthe garbarding. nish indicated, indicated, and juice or and serve serve with with its its own own juice or the the sauce sauce nish recommended. recommended. Fillet of of beef bed with garnish. FILET with garnish. FrLET DE DE BOEUF BoErrF GARNI cARNr - - For For Fillet various gamishes garnishes suitable suitable for for fillet fillet of of beef, beef, fried fried or or roast, roast, various see GARNISHES. GARNISHES. In In the the following following list list of of recommended recommended see garnishes, those those followed followed by (f) are by the the letter letter (f) are intended intended for for garnishes, fried fillets; fillets; the the others others are are suitable suitable both both for for fried fried and and roast roast fried fillets. fillets. Anver soise, Batrix, B datr ix, bouquetire, bouquetiir e, Brillat-Savarin, Brillat- Savarin, bruxelbruxelAnversoise, loise, chtelaine (f), Clamart, chdtelaine (f), Clamart, dauphine, dauphine, duchesse, duchesse, favorite, loise, favorite, (f), forestire, (f), Frascati (f\, Godard Frascati ([), financiire (f), Godard forestiire, franaise frangaise (f), financire (f), hongroise, jardiniire, italienne hongroise, jardinire, (f), languedocienne, italienne (f), Ianguedocienne, (f), macidoine, massenet (f), mentonnaise mossenet ([), (f), milanaise mentonnaise (f), (f), milanaise (f), macdoine, (f), nioise moderne ([), (f), nivernaise nigoise (f), (f), orientale, nivernare (f), parisienne, orientale, parisienne, moderne piimontaise (f), portugaise, portugaise, printanire, printaniire, provenale provengale (f), (f), pimontaise (f), renaissance (f), (f), Richelieu, Richelieu, romaine (f), Romanov romaine ([), (f), sarde Romanov (f), sarde renaissance (f), Saint-Germain, Saint-Germain, viennoise (f). viennoise (f). (f), Fried or or roast roast fillet fi.llet of of beef beef can can also also be be accompanied accompanied by by Fried buttered or braised vegetables, potatoes potatoes and pur6es of and pures of buttered or braised vegetables, various vegetables. vegetables. These These pures pur6es should be served separately. siparately. various Fillet of beef London "ouse. House. FILET FrLEr DE DE BOEUF BoEUF LONDON LoNDoN Filletof beef London prince Albert (see HousE This is same as (see below). HOUSE - This is the the saille as Fillet Fil/et Prince Fitlet MArrcNoN -- Lard Lard Fillet of of beef beef Matignon. Matignon. FrLEr FILET DE DE BoEUF BOEUF MATIGNON a of tongue (salt beef d l'carlate l'icarlate (salt beef tongue) a fillet fillet with with pieces pie ces of tongue (see and truffies cut into (see OFFAL OFF AL or or VARIETY VARIETY MEATS), MEATS), and strips. of matignon (q.v.), in wide, strips. Cover Coyer with with a a layer layer of (q.v.), wrap in thin strine. thin rashers rashers of of bacon, bacon, and and secure secure with with string. METHODS). Put into into a a braising braising pan pan (see (see CULINAR:Y CULINAR y METHOOS). _ _Fut Moisten I hour. Moisten with with Madeira, Madeira, and and cook cook with with the lid !id on for 1 Drain and matignon. Drain the the fillet, fillet, remove rem ove the the bacon bacon rashers rashers and matignon. Glaze Glaze the the fillet fillet in in the the oven, oyen, arrange arrange on a dish dish on a cro0ton croton of fried fried bread. bread. Surround with garnish garnish d la matignon. Strain the braising braising .. Surround with liquor, skim off off surplus surplus fat, fa t, pour pour a a little litt le of of the the sau"" sauce aro.rnJ around liquor, skim the the fillet fillet and and serve serve the the rest rest separately. separately.
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ing to to the the recipe recipechosen. chosen. Follow Follow the thespecial special instructions instructions ing

halves. halves. Fillthe theinside insidewith pieces withpie gras,seasoned ofuncooked uncooked foie Fill ces of seasoned foiegras, andstudded piecesof with pieces studdedwith oftruffles. truffies.Close Closethe and thefillet, fillet,tie with tiewith string, and andbrown brown in inaahot hotoyen. oven.Put Putinto intoa abraising string, pan braisingpan withthe the ingredients ingredients given givenin inthe therecipe recipefor with forFillet Filletof ofbeef beef Matignon.Moisten Moistenwith port,cook withport, Matignon. cookin inthe theoyen, oven,and andcomcompleteas asdescribed described in inthe theabove-mentioned above-mentioned recipe. plete recipe.Surround Surround withPrince Prince Albert (largetruffles Albertgarnish garnish(large with truffiescooked cooked in inMadeira) Madeira) and mushroom mushroom caps capscooked cooked in inbutter. and butter. Thisfillet filletofbeefis of beef isalso known as alsoknown This asPrince Prince ofWales. of Wales. Fillet of of beef beefon onskewers. skewers. BROCHETTES BRocHETTEsDE Fillet DEFILET FrLErDE DEBOEUF BoEUF- Prepared in in the the same same way wayas asFil/ets Prepared Fillets of ofmullon muttonon skewers onskewers (seeMUTION), MUTTON), using usingsquares (see squares of of fillet filletbeef, piecesof beef, pieces of blanched and and fried fried Jean lean bacon, bacon, and blanched and mushrooms. mushrooms. Cold fillet fillet of of beef. beef. FILET FrLEr DE DEBOEUF Cold lets BoEUF FROID FRorD- - Cold Cold beef beeffil fillets garnished with can be be garnished with various variousvegetables, can vegetables, boiled, boiled,drained, drained, allowed to to cool cool and and mixed jelly. They allowed mixed with with half-set half-setaspic aspicjelly. They can also also be garnished with be garnished can with various various mousses. mousses. Full instructions instructions for for these preparations, as Full these preparations, asweil wellas asaa list list of appropriate appropriate garnishes, garnishes, will of will be be found found under under the the entry entrv COLD FOOOSTUFFS. FOODSTUFFS. COLO Jellied cold cold fillet Jellied fillet of of beef. beef. FILET FrLEr DE DE BOEUF BoEuF FROID FRorD A LA u GELE cnrEr This method method is -- This mostly applied is mostly applied to pot-roasted or left-over pot-roasted to left-over or roasted fillet. fillet. If If the piece is roasted le, the piece is big big enough enough to to he beserved served who whole, jelly and cover it it with with aspic coyer aspic jelly jelly and and decorate decorate with with chopped chopped jelly and watercress. Or watercress. it into Or cut cut it into thin garnish with thin slices slices and and garnish with chopped chopped jelly and and watercress. watercress. jelly The fillet fillet can can also The also be be trimmed placed whole trimmed and and placed whole in in a a shalshallow serving serving dish, dish, and low and covered covered completely completely with with meat meat aspic aspic jelly flavoured with jelly flavoured with Madeira, Madeira, port port or or sherry. sherry. green or Serve a a green Serve or a a vegetable vegetable salad salad with with the the fillet, fillet, as as weil well as Rmoulade, Tartare, etc. as a a cold cold sauce: sauce: Mayonnaise, Mayonnaise,Rimoulade,Tartqre, (see etc. (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Cold fillet fiIlet of beef I la la nioise. nigoise. FILET FrLET DE DE BOEUF BoEUF FROID rnon A LA r.q, NIOISE NrgorsE Roast or pot-roast the or pot-roast fillet, keeping the fillet, keeping it it a a little little - Roast underdone. Leave underdone. Leave to get quite quite cold. to get cold. Line a mould Line a mould with with jelly, decorated tarragon-flavoured tarragon-flavoured jelly, decorated with with truffles, pieces of truffies, pieces of hard-boiled hard-boiled egg white, and and tarragon Ieaves leaves which have have been been blanched, dipped in cold cold water and and dried. dried. Put Put in in the fillet, the fillet, fil 1 the mould with jelly, jelly, and fill and leave leave to to set ice, or set on on ice, in the or in the refrigerator. Turn Turn out out onto onto a a dish, dish, on on a a foundation foundation of of jelly. tarragon-flavoured tarragon-flavoured

Special braising braising pan pan for for fillets fillets (D (Dehillerin. PhOf. Larousse) Larousse) Special ehillerin. Phot.

108 108

BEEF BEEF
Marinate Marinate 12 12 small sm aU tomatoes tomatoes in in oil, oil, vinegar, vinegar, salt salt and pepper, pepper, remove remove the the insides, insides, and and stuffwith stuff with a salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) truffies. Stuff 12 12 artichoke artichoke hearts hearts with with green asparagus asparagus of trufres. tips; tips; place place these these round round the the beef. beef. Garnish Gamish further further with stoned stoned olives stuffed stuffed with with Anchovy Anchovy butter buller (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound olives butters). butters). Put a a little chopped chopped jelly jelly between between each group of of garnish and decorate decorate the the edge of of the the dish with with jelly jelly cro0tons. crotons. and Cold fiIlet fillet of beef beef i la la parisienne. FrLEr FILET DE DE BoEUF BOEUF FRorD FROID Cold A r,,c, LA pARTSTENNE PARlSIENNE - Pot-roast Pot-roast or roast the the fillet and leave Jeave to jelly. Arrange on a dish, or cool. Trim, dry, and coat with jelly. on a buttered buttered cro0ton croton ofbread, ofbread, or on on a foundation foundation ofcooked of cooked on rice. rice. Surround with with small timbales of Macidoine Macdoine of vege,tables .tables (see (see MACEDOINE). MACDOINE). Decorate Decorate the tbe disb dish with jelly crotons. Serve with Mayonnaise Mayonnaise sauce (see SAUCE). cro0tons. Cold fillet of beef beef I la russe. russe. FrLET FILET DE DE BoEUF BOEUF A rA LA m.rsss RUSSE Cook the the fillet as as described described in the the recipe recipe for Coldfillet of ofbeef beef Cook la la parisienne parisienne and leave to get cold. cold . Cut out the central part, d leaving only a 'frame', with a narrow strip of about 4 to 5 5 leaving cm .Q (2 inches) at each eacb end. Cut the cut-out eut-out meat into thin cm. and put them them back back in in the the hollowed-out meat case, slices, and slices, pressing pressing them them in in tightly. tightly. Cover Coyer with with Madeira-flavoured Madeira-flavoured truffles added. aspic jelly which has had chopped trufres fillet on a bread croton a bread a foundation of Arrange the fillet cro0ton or a gamish with hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs, halved and cooked rice, and garnish hearts stuffed with vegetables covered with jelly, artichoke hearts dressed hearts eut dressed with mayonnaise, and lettuce hearts cut in quarters. Cold fllet fillet of beef DE BOEUF la strasbourgeoise. strasbourgeoise. FILET FILET DE BoEUF Cold i la FROID A r,c, LA STRASBOURGEOISE FRoID fillet srRA,snoLJRGEoIsE cook the fillet - Prepare and cook as in the the recipe recipe for Fil/et of beef Prince Albert, Albert, as described described in for Fillet studding it witb truffles instead bacon . with trufles instead of strips of larding bacon. Leave to get cold. to get Trim the fillet and coyer port-flavoured jelly. Arrange cover with port-flavoured on a buttered croton cooked ofcooked foundation of crofiton ofbread, ofbread, or on a foundation rice. rice. Gamish Garnish with truffles truffies cooked in port, cooled and dipped jelly, and in jelly, jelly and bunches of in of parsley. and with with chopped and bunches chopped jelly Decorate Decorate with jelly crotons. crofitons. Fillet cut Fillet of beef or DTAlL ofuru -- Slices eut beef steaks. FILETS FILETs DE DE BOEUF BoEUF DE off fil let ofbeef prepared in any way suitable offfillet of beef can suitable for steaks, can be prepared rump rump steak and and tournedos. Grilled. , brush fillet, brush with Trim and flatten tbe the fillet Grilled. Trim and slightly slightly flatten butter or other fat, season and grill under a a brisk heat. pan in Sauted. in a a saut in Sautded. Season fillet and and cook cook in saut6 pan the fillet Season the butter. butter. Keep slightly slightly underdone. pr"rns FILETS Sm aU fillets DE BOEUF BoEUF Small flleb of beef. beef. PETITS FTLETS DE Small slices slices - Small of fillets methods cut a a little bigger than All the the methods fillets eut than tournedos. Ali

Small fillets fillel s ri la nigoise nioise (lzronsse) (Larousse)

Grilled lets Grilled small small fil fillets

of of cooking cooklng given for tournedos are applicable to small fillets. BoEUF A PETITs FILETs nigoise. PETITS i la nioise. Small Sm ail fillets of beef FILETS pe DE BOEUF and place LA NIgoIsE Saut the fillets in butter, drain them and NIOISE - Saut place middle Fill the the middle fried in a croton crofiton of bread fried on a each on in butter. butter. Fill qooked French beans dressed with butter, dressed with of the dish with cooked a little little heap heap of small potatoes and place between each fillet a (or potato balls) cooked in in butter. juices with white wine, add Tomato fon&te add TomaLO Dilute the pan juices fondue chopped tarragon, FONDUE) flavoured with garlic and cbopped (see FONDUE) anchovy and pour the sauce over the fillets. Top with rolled ancbovy and with chopped chopped parsley. fillets and and sprinkle with fillets FORCEMEAT. Beef forcemeat for agnolotti Beefforcemeat T. - See FORCEMEA pnr-os-cOrn -- Top part of of the the rib, Top part flank. PLAT-DE-CTE Forequarter flank. generally used for tbe the stockpot. generally can be be poached in brine for several days, it can After pickling in with and served aromatics, and served hot with and aromatics, in water with vegetables and green cabbage, garnish: braised braised green red cabbage, cabbage, braised a garnish: braised red a pur6es of fresh fresh or dried vegetables. and pures butter beans, and and can can be making stews, for making stews, and also be be used used for This eut cut can can also This (see below). as Pressed beef (see prepared as DE BOEUF BoEUF AVEC AvEc rnlclDELLEs DE beef. FRICADELLES Fricadelles of of cooked cooked beef. FricadeUes (remains (l* lb.) g. (lilb.) cooked cooked beef (remains Mince 750 750 g. culrE -- Mince vIANDE CUITE VLANDE g. piece of mix with with 350 350 g. beef) and and mix of a a piece or braised braised beef) of boiled boiled or (5 oz., g. (5 (12 oz., pur6e. Add 1| potato pure. 150 g. oz., li Add 150 o2.,1| cups) thick thick potato (12 li cups) 2 wb whole eggs. Season Season bind with with 2 cups) chopped chopped onion, onion, and and bind cups) ole eggs. well. grated nutmeg, nutmeg, and and mix weil. and grated with salt, salt, pepper and witb (4 oz.) g. (4 pieces of 100 g. Roll them about 100 oz.) each. each. Roll them into pieces of about Divide into into thick, and shape flat with flour, flour, and shape into thick, fiat a board on a board sprinkled sprinkled with on and finish cooking in butter butter and finish cooking cakes. Brown them on both sides sides in them on cakes. in in the the oyen. oven. Piquante or Robert sauce sauce a well-spiced well-spiced sauce: or Robert with a sauce: Piquante Serve with Serve (see SAUCE), puree. a vegetable pure. with a SAUCE), or or with (see BoEUF AVEC rnIc.a.DELLEs DE DE BOEUF AvEc Fricadelles of of raw raw beef. beef. FRICADELLES FricadelJes (U lb.) g. (lig. vIANDE CRUE 750 g. lb.) lean lean beef, 250 g. cRUE -- Chop Chop together together 750 beef, 250 VIANDE (9 oz.) and add add out, and and squeezed squeezed out, oz.') decrusted bread, soaked and (9 , soaked decrusted bread (4 oz., (12 oz., g. (4 g. (12 1 cup) 125 g. oz., 1 cup) onion onion 350 g. l] cups) cups) butter, butter, 125 oz., l-t 350 and a a tablespoon tablespoon chopped chopped chopped and and lightly lightly fried fried in in butter, butter, and chopped pepper and parsley. Bind and whole eggs, with salt, salt, pepper Bind with with 3 3 whole eggs, season season with parsley. grated nutmeg, and mix mix weil. well. pinch of a pinch nutmeg, and of grated a preas described in the described in the prePrepare and and cook cook the the fricadelles Prepare fricadelles as ceding recipe. recipe. ceding beef glaze. GLACE concentrated beef Boil down down concentrated Beef glaze. DE BOEUF BoELJF -- Boil Beef cLACE DE stock to to a a syrupy syrupy consistency. consistency. stock gravies andstews. glaze is and ste,ws. This glaze for flavouring flavouring sauces, sauces, gravies is used used for This (See EXTRACTS, EXTRACTS, Meat Meat extract.) extract.) (See (Hungarian cookery). A way way of of DE BOEUF BoEUF -- A curvs Goulash AS DE cookery). GULY Goulash (Hongarian paprika, or (or other or with paprika, stewing stewing beef beef (or other meat), meat), spiced spiced witb pepper. Hungarian red red pepper. Hungarian prepared in in are prepared These stews, in France, France, are in Hungary Hungary as as in Tbese stews, in given below popular methods below. are given different ways. ways. Two Two popular methods are . different

109 109

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shallot which which has has been been simmered simmeredin in aalittle little white white wine. wine. Put Put shallot this mixture mixture on on the cro0tes. Place the crotes. Place the remaining marrow the remaining marrow this slices on on the the mixture, mixture, coyer cover with withfine finebreadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, season slices season with freshly freshly ground ground pepper, pepper, and and brown brown in inaahot hot oyen. oven. with Medallions of of beef beeffillet. fillet. MDAILLONS rrlfolrr-r,oNs DE DEFILET FrLET DE DE BOEUF BoEUF - MedaUions Round slices slices of of fillet, fillet, rather rather smaller smaller than thantournedos. tournedos. Their Their Round weight varies varies between g.(3 (3to between 80 80 and and 100 4oz.) 100g. to 4 oz.) and and they they can can weight prepared in be prepared in any any way way suitable suitable for fortournedos tournedos or or noisettes. noisettes. be They are are sometimes sometimes called called coeur coeur de de filet de boeuf boeuf. They filet de Miroton of of beef. beef. MIROTON MrRoroN DE DE BOEUF BoEUF -- Arrange Arrange thin Miroton thin slices slices of boiled boiled beef, beef, overlapping overlapping slightly, slightly, in in aa fireproof fireproof dish of dish on on aa (se SAUCE) foundation of thick foundation Lyonnaise sauce of Lyonnaise sauce (see SAUCE) mixed thick mixed with sliced sliced onions onions which which have have been been lightly lightly fried fried in with in butter. butter. Pour Lyonnaise Lyonnaise sauce sauce over over the meat, sprinkle the meat, melted Pour sprinkle with with melted butter or or dripping, dripping, and and brown brown the butter the top top in in the oven.Sprinkle the oyen. Sprinkle parsley. with chopped chopped parsley. with pAuprETTEs DE Paupiettes of of beef. beef. PAUPIETTES DE BOEUF BoEUF -- Paupiettes Paupiettes Paupiettesare are (q.v.) ballottines (q. made of of thin thin slices various meats, ballottines v.) made slices of of various meats, stuffed stuffed and rolled. rolled. and Flatten thin slices slices of of beef, beef, season pepper Fla tten thin th salt season wi with and pepper salt and and coyer cover with a layer pork sausage with a layer of of pork and or well-spiced well-spiced forcesausage or forcemeat. Roll into into the the shape large cork mea 1. Roll s, wrap of large corks, wrap in shape of rashers in thin thin rashers of bacon, baco4 and and tie with string. of tie with string. Braise the paupiettes,and the paupiettes, and moisten Braise moisten with with white white wine wine or or (see CULINARY Madeira (see Madeira CULINARY METHODS, Braising). METHODS, Braising). Remove bacon. bacon. Boil Boil down, Remove down, strain liquor and and strain the the braising braising liquor pour it paupiettes. Gamish. it over over the garnishes for pour the paupiettes. Garnish. Ail All garnishes for braised braised beef can can be be served paupiettes. Certain beef withpaupiettes. garnish, served with Certain types types of of garnish, as bourgeoise, such as bourgeoise, chipolata such chipolata sausages sausages or or small small onions, onions, should be be added added when when the paupiettes are should the paupiettes are half half cooked, cooked, with the covered with covered the strained strained braising braising liquor, liquor, and and left left to to finish finish panpiettes. cooking with with the cooking the paupiettes. Paupiettes of Paupiettes of beef prepared beef can can he be prepared it la la bourguignonne bourguignonne (braised in garnish -- small in red red wine). (braised wine). The The gamish small onions, onions, lardoons lardoons (strips of pork) and of salt and mushrooms -- must (strips salt pork) must he be cooked cooked with with paupiettes. the the paupiettes. pAUpTETTBs DE Paupiettes Paupiettes of of beef I la la hongroise. hongroise. PAUPIETTES DE BOEUF sosuF A LA HONGROISE HoNGRorsr -- Stuff paupiettes with LA Stuff the the paupiettes with veal veal forcemeat forcemeat mixed with chopped mixed chopped onion onion fried frid in pan on in butter. butter. Place Place in in a a pan on a foundation a foundation of of more fried fried onion, onion, and and season with salt and season with salt and paprika. Put the pan and paprika. lid on the !id on the the pan and simmer for 10 l0 minutes. simmer for minutes. Moisten (+ pint, Moisten with with dry dry white white wine, wine, allowing pint, scant allowing 2 2 dl. dl. (t scant paupiettes. Boil cup) (* cup) for for 10 l0 paupiettes. Boil down, down, then add about about 4 then add 4 dl. dl. (i pint, scant (se SAUCE). pint, scant 2 cups) cups) light ligfit Velout Velouti sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Put Put a a (q.v.) in garni (q.v.) bouquet garni in the middle of dish. Bring the middle of the the dish. Bring to to the the boil, coyer cover the pan, and cook in the oyen, oven, basting frequently. frequently. When the paupiettes paupiettes are are nearly done, done, drain remove drain them, them, remove barding, put back into the pan and add add 20 small small mushrooms lightly tossed in butter. Add cream to the sauce, sauce, boil down down a a little, and pour over the paupiettes. little, strain, and paupiettes. Cook Cook until until they they are are done. Serve Serve on cro0tons fried on crotons fried in in butter, butter, covering covering them with them with sauce sauce and mushrooms. pArJprETTEs DE Paupiettes Paupiettes of beef with pilaf. PAUPIETTES DE BOEUF BoEUF AU AU RIZ Rrz PILAF Paupiettes of beef with IILAF (see Prepare as as for for Paupiettes with risotto risotto (see - Prepare below), replacing the risotto with with pilaf rice. pAUpTETTEs Paupiettes of beef with witb risotto. UPIETIES DE Paupiettes risotto. PA DE BOEUF BoEtJF AU AU paupiettes, glaze RISOTTO - Cook the paupiettes, Rlsorro glaze them, and and serve serve with Risotto (see (see RICE). RICE). Simmer down Risotto down the liquor in in which which the paupiettes were braised, strain, and pour over them. pAUpTETTEs DE Paupiettes of of beef beef Sainte-Menehould. Paupiettes Saints.Menehould. PAUPIETTES DE BOEUF SATNTE-MENEHoULD SAINTE-MENEHOULD - Braise Braise the paupiettes until BoEUF the paupietfes until three-quarters done. Allow to cool three-quarters cool in the strained braising ftavoured with liquor. Drain, dry, and spread with mustard flavoured pinch of of cayenne pepper. Sprinkle a pinch Sprinkle with melted butter, roll in fresh breadcrumbs, and cook under a a moderate grill. Garnish with with watercress, watercress, and and serve with the the braising Garnish serve with liquor boiled down and strained.

Goulash Goulash

goulash J. Hungarian goulash I. GUL curyns DE BOEUF A LA BoEUF u HONGROISE noNcnorsE -Hungarian y AS DE (31 lb.) Fry 1t l* kg. kg. (3t lb.) lean lean beef pieces, and beef cut cut into into pieces, and 2 2 medium medium Fry (4 OZ., onions, cut cut into into large large dice, g. (4 in 125 125 g. dice, in oz.,* cup) lard. lard. Season Season t cup) onions, with salt salt and and a a teaspoon paprika. teaspoon of of paprika. with When ail all the ingredients are the ingredients are weil well browned, g. browned, add add 500 500 g. When (generous lb.) lb.) tomatoes, peeled, seeded tomatoes, peeled, seeded and and diced. diced. Moisten Moisten (generous (] pint, pint, scant with 2 2 dl. dl. (t cup) water, scant cup) water, bring bring to to the the boil, boil, coyer cover with with a a lid, lid, and and simmer for ($ pint, for 1 1| hours. Add pint, scant Add 2 2 dl. dl. (t scant t hours. with quartered potatoes, cup) water and and 4 4 quartered potatoes, and and continue continue to to cook cook cup) for about about another hour. for goulash n. II. GUL cury,cs DE BOEUF BoEUF A LA u HONGROISE noNcnorsB Hungarian goulash y AS DE pieces of Brown pieces of beef beef and and chopped chopped onion onion in in lard. lard. Season Season - Brown with salt and paprika. Sprinkle (3 tablespoons) Sprinkle 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) with flour into into the pan and cook for a a few moments. moments. Add Add enough enough ftour (| pint, cover the meat,2 pint, scant the meat, dl. (t scant cup) cup) clear brown stock to coyer 2 dl. pur6e, and (q.v.). Stir, tomato pure, garni (q.v.). and a a bouquet garni Stir, bring to the bring to the tomato boil, cover, and and cook cook in in the the oyen oven for for 2| hours. hours. Serve Serve with boil, coyer, potatoes. boiled potatoes. Beef BoEUF AU AU GROS cRos SEL ssr -- Boiled meat, meat, served served Beef au gros sel. BOEUF garnished with the vegetables with which it was cooked, hot, gamished and (See BOUILLON, sea salt. (See BOUILLON, SOUP.) and sea called steak I l'allemande). I'allemande). BIFTECK BTFTEcK Hamburger steak (also caUed A a00 g. (14 oz.) beef, taken rl LA glrunouRcEorsr HAMBOURGEOISE - Mince finely 400 from contre-filet or fillet. Add g. (2 (2 OZ., 50 g. oz., t cup) cup) chopped, chopped, Add 50 from lightly onion, and and 2 2 raw eggs. eggs. Season Season weil well with with salt, lightly fried fried onion, pepper grated nutmeg, and shape shape into 4 fiat flat cakes. pepper and grated Dredge and fry fry in clarified butter, in clarified butter, keeping Dredge with with flour ftour and them just right when little them a little underdone inside (they are just beads of blood forrn surface). Put Put a a tablespoon of form on on the the surface). sliced onion, on each steak. on ion, fried in butter, on Beef Beef hash. HAcHrs HACHIS DE BoEUF BOEUF made out of boiled - This is made or braised left-over meat. Recipes for beef hashes will be the section be found under the section HASHES. HASHES. They They can be made made in scallop scallop shells, as kromeskies, kromeskies, croquettes, auxfines d l'italienne, aux fines herbes, d la honggoise, hongroise, d la Iyonnaise, lyonnaise, Parmentier, Parmentier, d Ia la polonaise, polonaise, d la la portugaise. portugaise. juices. rus juices, usually Beef Beefjuices. JUS DE DE BoEUF BOEUFThesejuices, usually called. ca lied jus jus de - These viande, are used in building-up diets, and and are obtained by pressing pressing grilled grilled lean slices s!ices of of beef beef in a special apparatus. Keftedes Keftedes of beef beef (German cookery). KEFTEDES KEFfEDES DE DE BoEuF BOEUF Prepare Prepare Hamburger Hamburger steaks omitting omitting the the onion garnish. This method method of of preparation preparation can also be applied to other other meat. meat. It is is similar to bitki or cutlets cutlets d Ia la Pozharsky, which which can of veal, veal, chicken crucken or game, and fish. can be be made made of Ox Ox (beef) (beef) liver. Iiver. ron FOIE DE DE BoETJF BOEUF - This is less delicate than calf's liver. liver. All Ali recipes recipes for calf's liver are are suitable for ox ox (beef) OFFAL or or VARIETY VARIETY MEATS.) MEATS.) (beef) liver. liver. (See (See OFFAL Beef Beef marrow marrow on cro0tes. crotes. cno0rgs CROTES A r,q, LA L{onnr MOELLE - Poach Poach slices slices of of marrow marrow in in salted salted water, water, and drain thoroughly. Fry Fry slices slices of of bread bread in in butter. butter. Chop Chop a slice of of the the marrow marrow in small pieces and mix mix with with concentrated concentrated veal veal stock and and a a chopped pieces and

2t

110 ll0

BEEF BEEF

( Robert Carrier) Ragoit Ragot ofbef of beef(Roberl Carrier)

Paupiettes of beef with vegetables. PAUPIETTES Paupiettes PAUPIETTES DE DE BoEUF BOEUF garnished and serve serve garnished Braise the paupiettes paupiettes and - Braise green beans, green broad beans, vegetables: buttered French beans, with vegetables: beans, broad glazed carrots, carrots, lettuce, glazed endive, lettuce, celery, endive, peas, etc., etc., braised braised celery, peas, various prepared in in various etc., potatoes onions, etc., small onions, turnips, small turnips, potatoes prepared fresh vegetables. pur6es of dried or fresh dried or ways, pures ways, the sirloin. sirloin' of the Cut from the chump end of steakPorterhouse steak Porterhouse - Cut pnsss6 -- Pressed is served served which is beef, which Pressed beef, soruF PRESS beef. BOEUF Pressed beef. Pressed the in the ready-cooked in usually bought bought ready-cooked is usually as an hors-d'euvre, is an hors-d'uvre, as at home. made at can be be made but it it can shops, but shops, a thick trussing (61 lb.) prick with with a thick trussing lb.) brisket, brisket, prick 3 kg. kg. (61 Take 3 Take process is is The process l0 days. days. The for 8 8 to to 10 pickle in brine for in brine and pickle needle, and needle, winter. in win than in quickly in in summer summer than more quickly completed more completed ter. Pickled for Pickled used for as that that used is the same as pickling brine the same brine is The pick!ing The (see OFF must be be taken taken Care must (scarlet) beef OFFAL). tongue (see beef or or ox ox lOngue (scarlet) AL). Care cover liquid; coyer in the the liquid; submerged in beef is is completely completely submerged the beef that the that top. put a on top. a weight weight on and put wooden board board and with aa wooden with pieces to fit the the to fit into pieces cut into and cut water and in cold cold water beef in Wash the the beef Wash in water water placed' Cook Cook in will later later be be placed. in which which they they will moulds mou Ids in After leeks. After of leeks. quarters and a bunch bunch of and a in quarters cut in with aa carrot carrot cut with cover moulds, put into into square square mou drain, put cooking, drain, thorough cooking, thorough Ids, coyer top. put a a weight on top. weight on and put wooden board board and with aa wooden with moulds. the moulds. out of of the quite cold, cold, take take out is quite meat is When the the meat When with and mixed mixed with been diluted diluted and gelatine which has been which has with gelatine Coat with Coat add isset, set, add layer is one layer When one carmine. When little carmine. and aa!ittle burnt sugar sugar and burnt for protective covering covering for make aa protective These make another. These another, then then another. another, time. for sorne keep for some time. it to to keep enabling it the meat, meat, enabling the fresh with fresh and decorate decorate with into thin thin slices slices and cut into To serve, serve, cut To parsley. parsley. shoulder of rump, rump, shoulder Pieces of DEBOEUF BoEUF- - Pieces RAGoOrs DE Beef ragotts. RAGOTS Beefragots. and cut cut into into meat and Bone the themeat ragottts. Bone forthese theseragots. areused usedfor or rib ribare or butter, (4oz.). or butter, indripping dripping or g.(4 Brown in oz.). Brown l00 g. piecesof about 100 ofabout pieces quarters. Season Season intoquarters. cutinto andcarrots carrots cut withonions onions and together with together pepper. and pepper. withsalt saltand with

rfcuvms AUX LGUMES

nux

a good colour, vegetables acquire and the When the When the meat meat and the vegetables acquire a good colour, stock and clear brown moisten with flour, moisten in sorne some flour, sprinkle in sprinkle with clear brown stock and garlic clove. (q.v.) a crushed and garni a bouquet bouquet garni (q.v.) and a crushed garlic Add a mix. mix. Add clove. place the Drain, and l] hours. for It lid on, on, for with the the lid Simmer, with hours. Drain, and place the Simmer, dish. ovenware a large meat in pieces of pieces of meat in a large ovenware dish. sauce' Boil down down the meat. Boil garnish on of the on top top of a garnish Put a Put the meat. the sauce, in cooking in the cookjng Complete the ragofit. Complete pour over over the the ragot. and pour strain and strain dish uncovered. uncovered. the dish with the l] hours, with for 1 the oyen oven for t hours, the bourBourgeoise, bourragofits: Bourgeoise, beef ragots: for beef suitable for Garnishes suitable Garnishes chestnuts, mushrooms, chestnuts, sausages, mushrooms, guignonne, chipolata chipolata sausages, guignonne, salsify. salsify. and are then wine, and red wine, with red moistened with be moistened ragofits can can be Beef ragots Beef are then popular not only dish lt is a la bourguignonne. beef d called called beef la bourguignonne. It is a popular dish not only also in Paris, where it but also it originates, originates, but where it Burgundy, where in Burgundy, in in Paris, where it esrestaurants, essmall restaurants, of smaU menus of the menus on the daily on almost daily figures almost figures these menus the On merchants. On these wine merchants. kept by by wine pecially those those kept menus the pecially Bourguignon. as Bourguignon. is described described as dish is dish lean of lean consists of bourguignonne consists d la la bourguignonne garnish for for beef beef The garnish The glazed onions small glazed browned, small and browned, bacon, scalded scalded and rashers of of bacon, on ions rashers mushrooms. and mushrooms. and alsocalled called train train is also This cut cut is BoEUF -- This DE BOEUF c0rs DE beef. CTE of beef. Rib of Rib and train dicouvert and de ctes cbtes dcouvert ftain de into train divided into is divided de ctes. c\tes.It It is train de couvert. de ctes cdtes couvert. de which entrecdtes, which or entrectes, in slices slices or is cut cut in rib is the rib When boned, boned, the When (see Entrecite). grilled (see are then then grilled are Entrecte). are excellent. beef are whole, ribs ribs of of beef braised whole, Roasted or or braised Roasted excellent. mobile is served on aa mobile served on rib of of beef beef is roast rib restaurants roast In big big restaurants In garnish or guests. The ofthe front in front of the guests. The garnish iscarved carved in and is hotplate, and hotplate, or same trolley in bains' the same kept on on the gravyand arealso also kept and sauce sauceare trolley in bainsgravy marie. marie. red meats and must be like aU all red istreated treated Iike beef is Roast rib rib of of beef Roast meats and must be (see CULINARY METHODS, inside (see the inside underdone on on the underdone CULINAR y METHODS, roasts). times forroasts). cooking timesfor Average cooking Average prepared in inthe thesame same way as Top rump' ribofbeefis of beef isprepared Braised rib Braised way as Top rump.

lll III

BEEF

BEEF

fub of beef Rib ofbeef

recommended for contre-filet and fillet. When rouJt.d, nishes recommended for contre-filet and fillet. When roasted, it_is usually served wiih its own juices, clear and strong; it is usually served with its own juices, clear and strong; when braised, with the braising llquor boiled down. fi'e when braised, with the braising liquor boiled down. The left-overs of rib of beef can be made into various dishes. left-overs of rib of beef can be made into various dishes, recipes for which are given under EUINCE. HASH: recipes for which are given under MINC, HASH, SALPICON SALPICON. Roast in the oven. Trim the ribs. Cover with pieces of fat Roast in the oven. Trim the ribs. Coyer with pieces of fat beaten flat, and tie with string. Brush with dripping, sprinkle beaten fiat, and tie string. Brush with dripping, sprinkle with salt, put in with a roasting roasting pan pan and and cook cook in ln ihe on"rr. with salt, put in a the oyen, uncovered. When cooked, remove string, trim, and keep hot uncovered. When cooked, remove string, trim, and keep hot until ready to serve. Garnish and serve as indicated in the until ready to serve. Garnish and serve as indicated in the recipe. recipe.

Rib of beef (roast or braised) is served with all the gar_ .Rib of beef (roast or braised) is served with ail the garnishes

Decorating a aroast roast(French Government TouristOffice) Decorating (French GOl'ernment TOlJrisl Office)

Roast rib ofbeef(boned and rolled) Roast rib of beef (boned and rolled)

Roasting Roasting on on a aspit. spil. Trim Trim the the rib. rib. Tie Tie with with string string as as described described above. above. Brush Brush with with dripping, dripping, season season with with salt, salt, and and cook cook in in front a hot fire to seal the juices. Reduce to a more moderate front of ofa hot fire to seal the juices. Reduce to a more moderate heat heat to to ensure ensure that that the the meat meat cooks cooks through. through. Take Take offthe off the spit spit and and proceed proceed as as described described above. above. of beef Rib of beef roasted roasted on on a a spit spit should should be be taken taken off off the the spit spit Bib and and kept kept in in a a slow slow oven oyen 30 30 minutes minutes to to t1 hour, hour, depending depending on on size size (this (this applies applies to to whole whole roast roast rib). rib). The The cooking cooking is is thui thus completed completed and and the the meat meat settles settles in in the the gentle gentle heat heat lnd and be_ becomes more tender. cornes more tender. Rib Rib of of beef beef i la la bouquetilre. bouquetire. c6rr CTE DE DE BoEuF BOEUF A LA LA BoueuErriRn Cut a a thick thick slice slice (containing (containing two two bones) bones) off off BOUQUETIRE - Cut aa trimmed trimmed rib rib of ofbeef. beef. Season Season this this slice slice of ofrib rib and and cook cook in in a a saut6 sautpan pan in in clarified clarified butter. butter. Drain, and and garnish garnish with with carrots carrots and and turnips tumips cut cut to to a a uniuni_ Drain, form form size, size, French French beans, beans, artichoke artichoke hearti hearts stuffed stuffed with with garden garden peas, peas, new new potatoes potatoes cooked cooked in rn butter, butter, florets fiorets of of cauliflower. caulifiower. juices Dilute Dilute the the pan pan juices with with Madeira, Madeira, add add a a little little demidemiglace glace(q.v.) (q.v.)and and pour pourover over the the rib rib of ofbeef. beef.

proceed as Braised rib rib of of beef. beef.CTE cdrn DE DEBOEUF BoEUFBRAISE nR.clsfE- - Proceed Braised as described in in the the recipe recipefor for Braised Braisedbeef. beef. described Note. To To braise, braise, use piecesof usepieces ofrib, rib,cut cutin in thick Note. thickslices slices weighweighing from (t+ to from 22 to to 33 kg. ke. (4! to 6} 6| lb.). lb.). ing Cotd rib of of beef beef i la la mode. mode.CTE c6rs DE or BOEUF BoEUF FROIDE Co Id rib FRoTDE ALA re,MODE uooE Proceed as asfor Top rump (see below). rump dla la mode mode (see -- Proceed for Top below). Rib of of beef beef with garnish" CTE with garnish. oOTE DE DE BOEUF BoEUF GARNlE Rib GARNTE- - For For garnishes suitable suitable for for roast roast or or braised gamishes braised ribs ribs of of beef, beef, see see GARNISHES. The The following following are are the principal gamishes: GARNISHES. garnishes: the principal (b) following letter following the the name name of garnish indicates of the let ter (b) the garnish indicates that that it is is intended intended for for braised braised rib rib of it of beef: beef: (b), bourguignonne B our g eo ise (b), (b), bruxelloise, bourguignonne (b), Bourgeoise brux e t Io is e,chipolata chipolata (b), dauphine, sausages (b), dauphine, duchesse, duchesse, flamande, sausages hongroise, flamande, hongroise, jardiniire, loruaine, lyonnaise, lyonnaise, macdoine, jardinire, lorraine, maci do ine, marachre, maraichire, milanmilanaise, moderne, moderne, nivernaise, parisienne, pimontaise, nivernaise, parisienne, piimontaise, potatoes aise, potatoes cooked in in various various ways, portugaise, Richelieu. ways, portugaise, cooked Richelieu. In addition addition to garnishes, roast to these these gamishes, In roast ribs ribs of of beef beef can can be be served with with buttered buttered or or braised served braised vegetables, vegetables, and and pures purdes of of vegetables. c0rB DE oe BOEUF BoEr.rF Jellied rib of beef. beef. CTE A LA rl GELE cnrEr -- Trim Trim leftleft_ over rib rib of of beef, cover with with slightly over beef, coyer slightly coloured coloured aspic aspic jelly, garnish jelly and with chopped chopped jelly garnish with and watercress, watercress, and and decorate decoraie jelly crotons. the border of the border of the dish with jelly crofftons. Jellied of beef can can be lellied rib rib of be accompanied accompanied by by various various plain plain or mixed salads. mixed salads. Roast of beef i Roast rib rib of l'anglaise. I'anglaise. CTE cOrs DE or BOEUF BoEUF RTIE norm A L',q,NGLarsn L'ANGLAISE - Roast Roast the the rib as as described the preceding described in in the recipes recipes but allow a little more cooking time. Serve with Yorkshire Yorkshire pudding, pudding, baked baked in in the the drippingServe with dripping_ pan pan if if the the joint joint is cooked on a a spit, spit, or in an an ordinary-pai, ordinary pan, using using beef beef drippings drippings for fat, if if the the joint joint is cooked cooked in thi the oyen. oven.

Sirloinjoint jointready readyfor for roasting roasting Sirloin

tt2 112

BEEF BEEF
Roast Roas! beef. beef. nossr ROSBIF - Rib Rib roaSts, roasts, fillets fillets (U.S. (U.S. tenderloin) tenderloin) sirloin sirloin and and rump rump make make excellent excellent roasts. roasts. The The meat meat should should be be covered covered with with dripping dripping or or other other fat fat and and roasted roasted in in a a moderately moderately hot hot oven oyen (see (see CULINARY CULINARY METHODS, METHODS, AverAverage agecooking cooking timesfor limes for roasts). roaslS). Rump Rump of of beef. beef. culorrE CULOTTE DE DE BoEUF BOEUF -. This This cut cut represents represents what what is is left left of of the the hindquarter hindquarter after after the the sirloin sirloin has has been been cut eut off. off. It Itis is first first category category beefand beef and is is braised braised and and used used for for stocks. stocks. The Thetop top of ofthe the rump, rump, commonly commonlyknown known as aspidce pice de de boeuf,is boeuf, is served as a a remove. remove. All Ali the the recipes recipes applicable applicable to to it il will will be be served as found found under under Top Top rump rump (see (see below). below). Rump Rump steak. steak. RoMsrEcK ROMSTECK - Rump Rump steak steak is i5 a a slice slicc of of beef, beef, varying varying in in thickness, thickness, taken taken from from the the top top of of sirloin sirloin (U.S. (lI.S. face face of of the the rump), rump), or or the the lower lower part part of of the the sirloin, sirloin, formed formed by by the the thick, thick, fleshy fJeshy parts parts which which cover cover the the pelvic pel vic girdle' girdle. This This cut eut is is used used for for roasts roasts and and is is also also excellent excellent when when braised, braised, but bU! is is chiefly preferred grilled. grilled. chiefly preferred Rump Rump steak steak can can be be cooked cooked in in any any way way suitable suitable for for beefbeefsteaks and and fillets. tillets. steaks Grilled. Grilled. Proceed Procecd as as described described for Entecdte, Entrecte, grilled. gri/led. Sautied. Sauted. Proceed Proeeed as as described described fot for Entrec|te, Entrecte, sautied. sauted. and smoked smoked beef. beef. soeuF BOEUF s,c,Lf SAL er ET ruuf FUM - Suitable Suitable Salt and principally principally for brisket, but but top rump rump and shoulder shoulder of of beef beef (chuck) (chuck) can also be be prepared prepared in this thi, manner. manner. been kept in brine (in (in the same way way as as ox After having been tongue) for a period penod of of time according according to season, these cuts cuts tongue) are desalted and cooked in in water, allowing 15 15 minutes minutes per per (1 lb.). 500 g. (1 Salt beef beef is served hot, accompanied accompanied by by various valious vegetables vegetables general, in general, and, in (braised red or green cabbage, sauerkraut) and, with all ail vegetables vegetables normally served with with poached poached beef' beef. It Il is is as a press, cool under To serve serve cold, also used also used in potie. pote. To cold, cool under a press, as described in the earlier recipe recipe for Pressed beef. beef, described in Smoked beef, Smoked beef, which which must must be be pickled pickled in in brine brine before It is is salt beef' being smoked, smoked, is prepared in the same way as salt beef. lt hot or cold. served hot prepared are prepared These are DE DOEUF BoEUF s.q,urFs DE of beef. beef. SAUTS Saut6s of Sauts - These pieces. Season in pieces. cut in fillet and centre centre fil parts of rump rump and from let eut from parts keeping underpepper. Saut Saut6 briskly in butter, keeping with salt and pepper. undermeat as the meat as soon soon as from the pan as Remove from inside. Remove done done on the imide. juices with wine, with wine, Dilute the the pan juices hot. Dilute and keep keep hot. is is browned, and (q.v.), boil demi-glace (q. or demi-glace veal stock stock or add thickened thickened brown brown veal add v.), boil pan, into the the pan, pieces of back into of beef back Put the the pieees down, and and strain. strain. Put down, boiling' without boiling. pour the and reheat without them, and the sauce sauce over over them, garvarious garwith various be cooked cooked with can be beef can of beef Saut6s of of fillet fillet of Sauts as the beef; butter as the beef; in the the same same butter cooked in nishes; nishes: mushrooms cooked butter; in the the same same butter: lightly tossed tossed in slices, lightly cut in in thick thick sliees, truffies, cut tru.ffles, added to the beef beef to the in butter, butter, added and fried frid in potatoes, eut cut in in dice dice and potatoes, or fresh buttered or timbale; fresh into a a timbale; it has has been transferred into after after it been transferred glazed vegeta vegetables. glazed bles. preparing for preparing are also also suitable suitable for methods are The following following methods The juices being with pan juices diluted with being diluted crime, the the pan it la h crme, of beef: beef; sauts saut6s of d la bourguignonne, cream ; la bourguignonne, with fresh fresh cream; and moistened moistened with Madeira and Madeird garnish of juices diluted lean of lean with aa garnish wine, with red wine, pan juices with red diluted with pan glazed and smal! fried, and small glazed and fried, blanched and rashers of of bacon, bacon, blanched rashers provengale, the the la provenale, d la in butter; butter; sauted in mushrooms sauted onions and mushrooms onions and with juices diluted moistened with and moistened wine and white wine with white pan juices pan diluted with (seeTOMATO). TOMATO). TomalOfondue Tomato fondue (see border with aa border be served surrounded with also be served surrounded can al50 Saut of beef beef can Saut6 of pilaf or risotto. rice pilaf or risotto. of of lice part of the of the Fleshy part BoEUF -- Fleshy DE BOEUf PALERoN DE beef. PALERON Shoulder Shoutder of of beef. be also be it can canalso but it stock, but for ma making It is is mainly used for shoulder. king stock, shoulder.It mainly used into stews. stews. made into rump, and and made as top braised, braised, as top rump, in the the isc1assed classed in whichis Thiseut, cut,which BoEUFDE130EUf - This Sirioin. Sirloin. ALOYAU ALoyAUDE hook from the thehook part of animal from ofthe theanimal isthe the part firstcategory category of of beef, beef,is tirst (U.S. or faux-filet contre-filet or thecontre-filet It includes includesthe tothe the first firstribs. ribs. It to faux-filer (U.S. called isonly onlycalled (U.S. tenderloin). It is tenderloin). It fillet (U.S. beef fillet 5irloin) sirloin)and and the thebeef should whichshould cuts, which twocuts, these two itincludes includes these when en it aloyau (sirloin) wh aloyau(sirloin)
113 113

be becooked cooked together, together, without without boning. boning. It Itis isnot not found found in in retail retail

markets markets in in U.S., U.S., b:ut but a a sirloin sir/oin roast roast can can substitute substitute in in the the following followingrecipes. recipes. When When the the sirloin ,idoin is is cooked cooked whole, whole, the the top top has has to to be be trimmed trimmed otr offslightly slightly and and the theligament ligament all al! along along the the chine chine has has just is inside to to be be severed severed in in several severa! places. places. The The fillet, fillet, which which is just inside this should have have quite quite a a lot lot of offat fat left left on on it; it; some some of ofthe the this cut, eut, should fat fat surrounding surrounding it it should should be be cut eut off. off. After After having having been been thus th us trimmed, trimmed, the the joint joint is is seasoned seasoned with with salt salt and and pepper pepper and and tied tied with with string. string. The The sirloin, sirloin, served served as as a a meat meat remove, remove, is is generally generally roasted. roasted. It Il is is cooked cooked either either on on a a spit spit or or in in the the oven oyen and and kept kept a a little little underdone underdone inside. inside. It It can can also also be be braised, braised, cut eut into into pieces pieces 2 2 to to (see 3 3 kg. kg. (4 (4t to to 6| lit lb.), lb.), in in the the usual usual manner manner (see CULINARY CULINARY METHODS, METHODS, Braising). Braising). A LA Sirloin la d'Albuf6ra d'Albufra (CarGme's (Carme's recipe). recipe). lroYlu ALOYAU r.l Sirloin i la o'llsuFERA I)'ALDUFRA - 'Prepare, 'Prepare, braise braise and and glazn glaze a a sirloin. sirloin. Pour Pour round round ita it a ragofit ragot made made in in the the following following manner: manner: Put Put some sorne of of (see the the pan pan juices juices and and a a little little fresh fresh butter butter into into Tortue Tortue sauce sauce (see SAUCE), SAUCE), add add to to it it a a plateful plateful each each of of lightly lightly fried fried calves' calves' sweetbreads, sweetbreads, salt sait beef beef tongue ton gue and and mushrooms. mushrooms. Bring Bring the the of fillets ragofit ragot to to the the boil boil once. once. Garnish Gamish with with sliced sliced fillets of young young rabbits rabbits d ta la Orly. Orly. Decorate Decorate with with attelets allelelS (q.v.); (q.v.); put put on on the the
attelet alle/et first first a a plump plump double double cock's cock's comb, comb, then then a a slice slice of of rabbit rabbit

d la la Orly, Orly, then tben another another cock's cock's comb comb and and a a glazed glazed black black
trufle.' truffle.'
Braised Braised sirloin sirloin. ALoYAU ALOYAU nnxsf I3RAIS - Trim Trun a a piece piece of of sirloin, sirloin, cutting cutting across across the the joint, joint, with with the the grain grain of of the the meat. meat. Lard Lard it it salt, with with thick thick lardoons, lardoons, which which have have been been seasoned seasoned with with salt, parsley and with chopped pepper spices, sprinkled pepper and and spiees, sprinkled with chopped parsJey and a sprinkling an hour steeped steeped for for an ho ur in in a sprinkling of of brandy brandy with with carrots carrots and braise. Tie with string and and and onions. onions. Tie with string braise. off fat, skim off Reduce Reduce pan pan juices, juiees, skim fat, strain, strain, and and pour pour over over the the serving. sirloin before sirloin before serving.
GARNITURES GARNITURES DIvERsEs DIVERSES - Braise Braise the the

BRAIsf AvEc garnishes. ALoYAU sirloin with Braised sirloin Braised with variou varions garnishes. ALOYAU BRAiS AVEC above. as described described above. sirloin as sirloin around garnishes, disposed disposed around following gamishes, of the the following one of Serve with Serve with one Bourgeoise, bruxelloise, bruxelloise, separately: meat or or served served separa the meat the tely : Bourgeoise, Dubarry, kohlrabi, Dubarry, sauerkraut, kohlrabi, chipolata sausages, sausages, sauerkraut, celery, chipolata celery, jardinidre, milanaise, napolitaine, milanaise, napolitaine, duchesse, flamande, flarnande, jardinire, duchesse, Riche' potatoes, various po noodles, .piimontaise, ta toes, provengale, provenale, Richenoodles, pimontaise, various (see GARNISHES). GARNISHES). risotto (see lieu, risol/o lieu, DE DESSERTE DE roast. DESSERTE pieces braised or roast. braised or left-over pieces Sirloin, left-over Sidoin, preparation of Rlb of Rib given for for the the preparation recipes given All the the recipes L'ALovAU - Ali L' ALOY AU sirloin. applicable to to sirloin. are applicable Contre-filet are of beef or or Contre-filet ofbeef completely meat has has been been completely after the the meat remain after Bones which which remain Bones (see STOCKS)Beef stock stock (s for makiog making Beef can be be uscd used for used up up can used STOCKS). whole or or cooked whole can be be cooked n6n -- This This can ALoYAU RTI Roa$ sirloin. sirloin. ALOYAU Roast a Iigbt light leaving a trim the the sirloin, sirloin, leaving pieces. Cut off the the top top.and in pieces. Cut off in and trim during prevent it from drying drying during it from fillet, to prevent the fille fat on layer of of fat on the t, to layer Tie with with string. string. cooking. Tie cooking. instrucfollowing the the instrucoven, by by following in the the oven, a spit or in Roast it, it, on on a spit or Roast (see CULINARY meats (s of red red meats given for cooking of for the the cooking tions given tions CULINARY its own own serve its and serve watercress and with watercress Garnish with METHODS). Garnish METHODS).

juices separately. separately. juices A L'lNctrusn - Trim nOn ALoYAU RTI l'anglaise. ALOYAU i l'anglaise. Roast sirloin sirloin Roast L'ANGLAISE- Trim joint, enclose water, and hot hot water, paste made made offlour of flour and in paste enclose in and tie tie the the joint, and beef fat fat and salted salted beef quarter of of chopped chopped and its weight weight of of its with one one quarter with and crust and remove the the crust cooked, remove nearly cooked, it. When When nearly added to to il. added joint. brown the the joint. brown (q.v.) in the roasting pudding (q. the roasting cooked in Yorkshire pudding with Yorkshire Serve with Serve v.) cooked juices. joint's own own juices. pan, and the joint's and the pan, Roast n6n -- Roast gamishes. ALOYAU ALoYAU RTI various gamishes. with various sirloin \\llh Roast sirloin Roas! garnishes joint as thegamishes with one oneof of the above.Serve Serve with asdescribed described above. thejoint the braisedor or The sir/oin, sirloin, braised Braised sir/oin. sirloin. The for Braised recommended for recommended garnishes recomrecomby the the garnishes accompanied by also be beaccompanied canal50 roasted, can roasted, (U.S. sirloin), Fillet ofbeef of beef RiDand andFil/el sirloin), Rib forContre-filet Contre-filet (U.S. mendedfor mended (U.S. tenderloin). tenderloin). (U.S.

BEEF

BEEF
Poached. Tie with string and cook, with garnish, the usual Poached. Tie with string and cook, with the usual garnish, pot-au-feulsee large stockpot, indicated for SbUpSy. inin aa large stock pot, asas indicated for Pot-au-feu (see SOUPS). Bringtoto the boil, remove scum, season, and leave Bring the bail, remove scum, season, and leave toto simmer simmer for hours.Drain to Drainthe the remove meat, string, and for 44 to 55 hours. meat, remove string, and serve serve withits its own strainedliquor, liquor,grated gratedhorseradish, horseradish,and and rock with own strained rock salt. salt.

Sliced beef with various sauces. frrarNcfu DE BoEUF _ LeftSliced beef with various sauces. MINCS DE BOEUF - Leftpoached, over braised or roast meat usually used for this poached, braised or roast meat isis used for this over dish. Cut the piece of meat into thin usually slices,and indpour pour over dish. Cut the piece of meat into thin slices, over them one of the following sauces: Bordelaisei:, bourluignonne, them one of the following sauces: Bordelaise, bourguignonne, charcutiire, chasseur, duxelles, fines herbes, italiinni, lyon_ charcutire, chasseur, duxelles, fines herbes, italienne, lyonnaise, Madeira, piquant po ivrade. naise, Madeira, piquante,e,poivrade. Steak - See Beefsteak, Chateaubriand, Contre_filet, Entre_ Steak - See Beefsteak, Chateaubriand, Contrefilet, Entrecite, etc. cte, etc. Ox tail - See OFFAL or VARIETY MEATS. Ox tail-See OFFAL or VARIETY MEATS.

tmerican marmite for beef-tea American marmite for beef-tea

Beef-tea - Concentrated consomm6 or meat iuice. ob_ Beef-tea Coneentrated consomm or meat JUlee, obtained by cutting lean beef into small dice and seaiing them tained by cutting lean beef into small dice and sealing them hermetically in a wide-necked bottle, or in a special-screwhermetically in a wide-necked bottle, or in a special screwtop pewter receptacle (American marmite). put into a pan of top pewter receptacle (American marmite). Put into a pan of boiling water for 40 to 50 minutes. boiling water for 40 to 50 minutes. 500 g. (l lb.) meat will give about 150 g. (a to 5 oz.) liquid. 500 g. (lIb.) meat will give about 150 g. (4 to 5 oz.) liquid. Beef-tea has a greater nutritive value than ordinary meat_ Beef-tea has a greater nutritive value th an ordinary meatstock but it is chiefly given, in small doses, to convaliscents. stock but it is chiefly given, in small doses, to convalescents, for stimulating the secretion of digestive glands and awaken_ for stimulating the secretion of digestive glands and awakening ing the the appetite. appetite. Tongue - See OFFAL or VARIETY MEATS, Beef or Ox Tongue - See OFF AL or V ARIETY MEATS, Beef or tongue. tongue. Toprump. pricr pn soeur (rorNrr on curorrn) (See Rump Top rump. PICE DE BOEUF (POINTE DE CULOTTE) - (See Rump of beef) Top rump is sometimescalled,pointe de'culotte. but is of beef) Top rump is sometimes called pointe de culotte, but is more frequently described on menus as piice de boeuf. more frequently described on menus as pice de boeuf Braised. Lard a 3-kg. (6+Jb.) piece of top rump with Braised. Lard a 3-kg. (6t-lb.) piece of top rump with strips strips of of salt salt pork, pork, well weil seasoned seasoned and and sprinkledwith sprinkled with brandy. brandy. Season the meat with fine salt, pepper and spices, and tie Season the meat with fine salt, pepper and spi ces, and tie with with string. string. Marinate Marinate for for 5 5 hours hours in in wine wine with with thyme, thyme, bay bay leaf, leaf, parsley parsley and a and a crushed crushed clove c10ve ofgarlic. of garlic. Drain and dry Drain and dry the the meat meat with with a a cloth. c1oth. Brown Brown in in butter butter or or other other fat. fat. Fry Fry 2 2 sliced sliced onions onions and and 2 2 sliced sliced carrots carrots in in butter. butter, put them into a braising pan with l] kg. (3* lb.) fleshy bones, put them into a braising pan with 1t kg. (3i lb.) fleshy bones, a calf's knuckle knuckle chopped chopped into into small small pieces pieces and and browned browned in in a calf's the the oven, aven, 2 2 calf's calf's feei, feet, boned, boned, scalded, scalded, dipped dipped in in cold co Id water water and and tied tied with with string, string, and and aa bouquet bouquetgarni garni (q.v.). (q.v.). Lay Lay the the meat meat on on this this foundation. foundation. Add Add the the marinating marinating liquor, liquor, cover cover the the pan, cookaa little little away away from from direct direct heat heat until until the the liquor liquor pan, and and cook is almost completely is almost completely reduced. reduced. Add Add slightly slightly thickened thickened veal veal stock stock mixed mixed with witb 3 3 tablespoons tablespoons (scant (scant *i cup) cup) tomato tomato sauce sauce to tocover coverthe themeat. meaL Bring Coverthe thepan panand andput putin inaaslow slowoven oven for for Bringto tothe theboil. boil.Cover about 4 hours. about 4 hours. Drain Drain the the meat, meat, untie, untie, and and glaze glaze it it in in the the oven, owngravy. gravy. oven,basting bastingwith withits itsown Arrange Arrangeon onaalarge largedish, dish,surround surroundwith withthe thegarnish gamishrecomrecommended, separategroups. groups.Boil Boildown downthe thebraising braising mended,disposed disposedin inseparate liquor, skim off pour liquor, skim offthe thefat, fat, and and pourover overthe themeat. meat. r14 114

How to lard top rump rump (Nicolas) (Nrcolas)

Top rump rump d la bourgeoise. bourgeoise. pricr PICE DE DE BoEUF BOEUF .A. r,c. LA souRBOURcrorsr GEOISE - Steep Steep lardoons lardoons in brandy brandy and spices spices and insert in sert in in a a large of rump. rump. Season Season and and marinate marinate in in 5 5 dl. (scant (scant pint, large piece piece of 2{ cups) white 2i cups) white wine wine for for 6 6 hours. hours. Cook Cook in in a a braising braising pan pan with with vegetables vegetables and other other garnish as as indicated indicated for for Braising Braising meat meat (see (see CULINARY CULINAR y METHODS). METHODS). When When three-quarters three-quarters cooked, cooked, drain drain the the meat meat and and put put it it in in a a casserole casserole with with 4 4 carrots carrots which which have have been been cut cut into into small small pieces and two-thirds two-thirds cooked cooked in in stock, stock, and and small small glazed pieces and glazed, onions. onions. Add Add calf's calf's feet, feet, braised braised with with the the meat, meat, boned boned and and cut cut into into pieces. pieces. Strain Strain the the braising braising liquor, liquor, skim skim off off fat, fat, and and pour pour over over the the meat. meat. Cook Cook with with a a lid !id on on for for ll li hours. hours. Drain Drain the the meat meat and and serve serve with with the the liquor. liquor.

Top Top rump romp ta la bourguignonne. bourguignonne. priicr PICE ou DE sorur BOEUF A ra LA BoURGUTcNoNNE BOURGUIGNONNE-- Insert Insertlarge large lardoons lardoons into into a a piece piece of ofrump rump and and marinate marinate in in brandy brandy for for 6 6 hours. hours. Braise Braise in in red red wine, wine, following the recipe recipe for for Braising Braising meat meat (see (see CULINARY CULINAR y following the
METHODS). METHODS).

BEEF
into meat cooked, When Whenthree-quarters three-quarters cooked,drain drainthe the meatand andput put intoaa

BEEF

daubire (q.v,) (q.v,) with with garnish garnish d la la bourguignonne bourguignonne (see (see daubiire

wine and a few tablesPoons few fewminutes, minutes,and andadd addaalittle littledry dry wine and a few tablespoons

GARNISHES)and andits itsbraising braisingliquor, liquor,strained strainedand andwith withfat fat GARNISHES) skimmedoff. off.Simmer Simmerslowly. slowly. skimmed Top l'ancienne. PdcE PICEDE DE BoE-uF BOEUF BRAISEE BRAISEA Toprump rompbraised braised i l'ancienne. r'lNCmNNs L'ANCIENNE -- Trim Trim top top rump, rump, and and tie tie with with string. string. Braise, Braise, and andwhen wbenthe themeat meatisisstill stillaalittle littlefirm, firm,drain, drain,put putunder underaapress' press, or orin inaapan panwith withaaweight weighton ontop. top. Leave Leaveto tocool. cool. Cut Cutout outthe thecentre centrepart, part, leaving leavinga a meat meat ring ringabout about l| Itcm. cm. (f (t inch) inch) thick. thick. Brush Brush with with beaten beaten egg egg and and cover cover with with white white breadcrumbs breadcrumbsmixed mixedwith with grated grated Parmesan Parmesan cheese. cheese. Press Presswell weil to to make make the the breadcrumbs breadcrumbs adhere, adhere, sprinkle sprinkle with with melted melted butter, and and brown brown in in the the oven. oven. butter, Cut Cut the the meat meat taken ta ken out out of of the the centre centre part part into into very very thin thin slices, put them them into into a a saut6 saut pan, pan, added added thin th.in slices slices of oftongue tongued slices, put l'carlate (salt (salt beef beef tongue) tongue) and and some sorne sliced sliced mushrooms' mushrooms, I'icarlate lightly lightly fried fried in in butter. butter. Moisten Moisten with with a a few few tablespoons tablespoons conconand with with the the fat fat skimmed skimmed centrated braising braising liquor, liquor, strained strained and centrated off. !- dl. dL (3 (3 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant lt cup) cup) Madeira Madeira and and leave leave off. Add Add + do not not boil. boil. to stew stew slowly slowly but but do to Place Place these these slices slices in in the the meat meat ring, ring, and and serve serve with with the the remainder remainder of of the the sauce. sauce. Top la la mode. mode. p$cn PICE or DE BoEuF BOEUF A Ll LA uoon MODE - Cook Cook as as Top rump romp i described described in in the the recipe recipe for Top Top rump rump d la la bourgeoise, bourgeoise, replacing replacing white wine wine by by red. red. white Top ONGLET DE DE Bonur BOEUFThis juicy cut cut can can be be prepared prepared Top skirt. skirt. oNGLET - Thisjuicy is also in in any any way way suitable suitable for for Beefsteak' Beefsteak. It Itis also used used for for carbonades, for extracting meat juice, juice, and for for beef beef saut6es' sautes. extracting meat or saut6. saut. Grill or Grill Tournedos (medallions filJet of of beef) - Small Small slices slices of of Tournedos (medallions of fiIlet of butter a mixture fillet of of beef, beef, usually frid fried in butter, or in a mixture of butter of to that that of is similar similar to Their preparation in oiL oil. Their or in preparation is and and oil, oil, or should be They should (see MUTTON). MUTTON)' They of mullon mutton (see Noiselles be Noisettes of pink remain pink they remain that they make sure sure that to make very quickly, to cooked very inside. grilled). (see Filets mignons, mignons, grilled). grilled (see also be be grilled Tournedos can also Tournedos grilled or or placed on on grilled are sometimes sometimes placed they are Before garnishing, they mounds small mounds hearts, artichoke he cakes, artichoke cro0tons, potato cakes, fried crotons, arts, small be found found will be tournedos will for tournedos and sauces sauces for etc. Garnishes Garnishes and rice, etc. of rice, of and SAUCE. SAUCE. GARNISHES and order under GARNISHES alphabetical order in alphabetical in and with salt salt and tutrnedos with Season the the tournedos Abrantis -- Season Tournedos Abrants Tournedos grilled slices slices of of on grilled them on in oiL Place them oil. Place paprika and and saut them in saut6 them paprika add a a oil, add in the the oil, onion in chopped onion I tablespoon Fry 1 tablespoon chopped aubergines. au bergines. Fry a few few tablespoons tablespoons pimentos and and a (q.v.) of peeled pimentos of peeled salpicon salpicon (q.v.) with Serve with tournedos' Serve pour over over the the tournedos. and pour sauce, and tomato tomato sauce, in butter. butter. cooked in and cooked cut small small and been cut potatoes which have been which have potatoes salt with salt tournedos with the tournedos Season the I'alg6rienne -- Season i l'algrienne Tournedos Tournedos and fried crotons cro0tons and on fried Place on in butter. butter. Place saut6 in paprika and and saut and and paprika (see GARNISHES). GARNISHES)' algirienne (see *ith Garnish Garnish algrienne surround .u.to.tnd with been has been which has juices with wine to to which white wine with white pan juices Dilute the pan Dilute the pour over the over the and pour veal stock, stock, and added added tomato-flavoured tomato-flavoured veal tournedos . tournedos. and in butter butter and tournedos in Saut6the thetournedos archiduc-- Saut Tournedosarchiduc Tournedos croquettes withsmall small croquettes garnishingwith potato cakes, cakes,garnishing place them onpotato them on place place22on on andplace butterand inbutter of trufrein Toss slivers sliversoftruffie brains. Toss ofcalves' calves'brains. of juices witb sherry, withsberry, pan juices Dilute tbe thepan garnishedtournedo. tournedo. Dilute each eachgarnished boil proportions, boil equal proportions, inequal stock in vealstock creamand and veal fieshCream add addfresb pourover the overthe andpour paprika, strain, strain, and withpaprika, little,season downaalittle, season with down tournedos. tournedos. wtth grilledtournedos tournedoswith Garnish grilled labarnaise b6arnaise- -Garnish Tournedos i la Tournedos with (seePOT Servewith POTATOES). potatoes (see Chdtean potatoes smallChteau ATOES). Serve small (seSAUCE). SAUCE). sauce(see Biarnaise sauce Barnaise and poachedand ofpoached slicesof thin Plaoethin labordelaise bordelaise- -Place Tournedosila slices Tournedos chopped withchopped Sprinklewith grilledtournedos. tournedos'Sprinkle marrowon ongrilled drained drainedmarrow (see SAUCE). sauce(see Bordelaisesauce withBordelaise parsley andserve serve and with SAUCE). parsley and inbutter, butter,and tournedosin thetournedos Saut6 chassetn- -Saut Tournedos the Tournedos chasseur pan, samepan, inthe the mushroomsin sliced placeon Saut6 on dish.Saut place a adish. sliced mushrooms same for brown Season,brown shallots.Season, chopped of spoonfulof adding spoonful chopped shallots. for aa iOainga a

veal stock)' Boil .!:t (q.v.) (or thickenid 6r*;-gtice thickened veal stock). 9oil for ? 2 demi-glace (q.v.) (or parsley, chervil and

chopped minuies. minutes. edd Add z 2 teaspoons teaspoons chopped parsley, chervilpour and the sauce' Stir well and tarragon, tarragon,and andaalittle !ittlebutter butterto to the sauce. Stir weil and pour over the tournedos. the tournedos in butter, and Tournedos Choron -- Saute Saut the tournedos in butter, and Garnish with artichoke hearts place placethem tbemon onfried fried crootons. crotons. Garnisb with artichoke bearts peas garden with filled and which whichhave havebeen beenstewed stewedin inbutter butter and filled with garden peas butter' Pour on each tourneda dressed or -Choron or utp"tugrrs asparagus tips tips dressed in in butter. Pour on each the tournedo pan (see SAUCE)' Dilute a a rini ring of ofitrict thick Choron sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Dilute the pan veal stock, and pour a juiceJwith juices with white white wine wine and and thickened thickened veal stock, and pour a few few tablespoons tablespoonsover over ttle the tournedostournedos. the tournedos in butter' Tournedos la Clamart Clamart - Saut6 Saut the tournedos in butter. Tournedos I la and fill with a puree of in butter, hearts artichoke Simmer Simmer artichoke hearts in butter, and fil! with a pure of cooked been have which potatoes new peas and small fresh fresh peas and small new potatoes which have been cooked and thickened wine juices white with in in butier. butter. Dilute Dilute the the pan pan juices with wbite wine and thickened tournedos. veal and pour pour over over the the tournedos. veal stock, stock, and tournedos in butter, place Tournedlos Tournedos H-etder Helder - Saut Saut the the tournedos in butter, place each one with a ring of them tbem on on fried fried crottons, crotons, and and top top each one with a ring of a further decorated with (see Biarnaise Barnaise sauce sauce (see SAUCE), SAUCE), further decoratedGarnish with a (see FONDUE)' Tomato thick of teaspoon fondue teaspoon of thick Tomato fondue (see FONDUE). Garnish the pan juices with wtite potatoes fried with withpotatoes fried in in butter, butter, Dilute Dilute the panjuices with white tournedos' the pour over and veal stock, wine and thickened tbickened veal stock, and pour over the tournedos. wine and the tournedos in butter and Tounedos and Tournedos Henri Henri IV IV - Saut6 Saut the tournedos in butter arti each tournedo witha small Top crofitons. fried place on place on fried crotons. Top eacn tournedo with a small artiBdarnaise sauce (see SAUCE), .ttot choke heart heart filled filled with with thick thick Barnaise sauce (see SAUCE), Garnish with small potadecorated decorated with with a a sliver s!iver of of truffie. truffie. Garnisb with small (q'v potajuices Madeira and demi-glace ') toes. toes. Dilute Dilute the the pan pan juices with with Madeira and demi-glace (q.v.) tournedos. pour the over and and pour over tbe tournedos.

*iilH"?Kt6f;;'

Tournedos Marguery

Tournedos Marguery

the tournedos in butter, and Saut6 the Marguery -- Saut Tournedos Marguery Tournedos tournedos in butter,(q'v') and with a salpicon filled with heart filled irtichoke heart an artichoke with an each with top each top a salpicon (q.v.) morels with dish the of centre the Fill crCme. FiU the centre of the disb with morels dla Ia crme. of truffles trufles of cocks' combs and kidneys few cocks' place aa few and place in butter, butter, and fried in combs and kidneys fried the pan juices with port, add Dilute tournedos. the between between the tournedos. Dilute the pan juices with port, add a little, and pour over the tournedos' down boil fresh cream, fresh cream, boil down a little, and pour over the tournedos. Grill tbe the tournedos and arrange them Massena-- Grill TournedmMassena Tournedos tournedos and arrange them been simmered in butter' Add a have which artichokes on on articbokes which have been simmered in butter. Add a each tournedo. Cover with toeach poached bone-marrow bone-marrow to sliceof ofpoacbed slice tournedo. Cover with (see SAUCE), and put a pinch of chopped I sauce Marroi Marrow sauce 1 (see SAUCE), and put a pinch of chopped marrow. ofmarrow. sliceof parsleyon eachslice oneach parsley ^ Saut6 the tournedos in mushrooms with Tournedm Tournedos with musbrooms - - Saut the tournedos in small mushrooms which add cooked, half When butter. butter. When half cooked, add small mushrooms which and complete cooking. in butter, fried lightly have been have been lightly fried in butter, and complete cooking. on a dish, and surround crownon inaacrown tournedosin thetournedos Arrangethe Arrange a dish, and surround Dilutethe the pan juices with Madeira, mushrooms. Dilute withthe themushrooms. with pan juices with Madeira, (q.v.) or thickened veal stock, and withdemi-glace demi-gtace(q.v.) moisten moisten with or thickened veal stock, and pour the tournedos. over pour over the tournedos. perigourdine - Saut6 the tournedos in la i Tounedos Tournedos la perigourdine - Saut the tournedos in and top each with slices of cro0tons,and placeon friedcrotons, onfried butter,place butter, top each with slices of cooking butter. Dilute in the tossed been have which truffie truffie which have been tossed in the cooking butter. Dilute juices with Madeira and demi-glace (q.v.) and pour pan the the pan juices with Madeira and demi-glace (q.v.) and pour tournedos. overthe thetournedos. over
115 Ils

BEEF-EATERS BEEF-EATERS

Beer : fermentation room (Ileineken) (Adwindig) Beer: fermentation room (Heineken) (Adwindig)

Beer:tank tankcellar (Heineken)(Adwindig) cellar(Heinekeo) (Adwindig) Beer:

Tornedos i la portugaise saut6 the tournedos in butter and Tornedos la portugaise -- Saut the tournedos in butter and oil, and garnish with small stuffed tomatoes and Chhrcau oil, and garnish with small stuffed tomatoes and Chteau potatoes (see POTATOES). Dilute the pan juices with white potatoes (see POT ATOES). Dilute the pan juices with white wine and tomato-flavoured veal stocli and pour over the wine and tomato-fiavoured veal stock and pour over the tournedos. tournedos. Tournedos Rossini - Saut6 the tournedos in butter and Tournedos Rossini - Saut the tournedos in butter and arrange on crofitons. Put a slicn of foie gras tossed in butter arrange on crotons. Put a slice of foie gras tossed in butter on each, and top with slices of truffies, heated in the same on each, and top with slices of truffies, heated in the same butter in which the tournedos were cooked. butter in which the tournedos were cooked. Dilute the pan juices with Madeira Madeira and and demi-glace (q.v.) demi-glace (q.v.) Dilute the pan juices with and pour over the tournedos. and pour over the tournedos. Tournedoa Saint-Germain - Saut the tournedos in butter, Tournedos Saint-Germain - Saut the tournedos in butter, plaoe on fried cro0tons, and garnish with a thick puree of place on fried crotons, and garnish with a thick pure of fresh peas. fresh peas. Dilute the pan juices with thickened veal stock and pour Dilute the pan juices with thickened veal stock and pour over the tournedos. Garnish with young glazd, carrots^and over the tournedos. Garnish with young glazed carrots and small new potatoes gooked in butter, alteinating these vege_ small new potatoes cooked in butter, alternating these vegetables round the dish. (iee sauce (see tables round the dish. Serve Serve with with Biarnaise Barnaise sauce SAUCE). SAUCE). Tournedos can be cooked in any way suitable for small cuts Tournedos can be cooked in any way suitable for small cuts of meat,. for Noisettes Noisettes of of meat, especially especially as as described described in in recipes recipes for of (see mutton can mutton (see MUTTON). MUTTON). Saut6ed Sauted or or grilled, grilled tournedos tournedos can also be dressed with butter or fresh cream, and served with also be dressed with butter or fresh cream, and served with French beans, kidney beans, peas, asparagus tips. They can French beans, kidney beans, peas, asparagus tips. They also be garnished with fresh vegetables cookedin butier or also be garnished with fresh vegetables cooked in butter or braised, such as cubumbers, chicory, lettuce, small marrows, braised, such as cu"cumbers, chicory, lettuce, small marrows, aubergines, celeriac, celery, spinach; as well as with potatoes aubergines, celeriac, celery, spinach; as weil as with potatoes cooked cooked in in various various ways; ways; and and with with pur6es pures of of freshbr fresh or dried dried vegetables, rice pilaf, risotto, pasta products and cereals. vegetables, rice pilaf, risotto, pasta products and cereals. Beef _ Boiled beef. Beefila la vinaigrette. vinaigrette. BoEUF BOEUFA ra LA viNlrcnurrr VINAIGRETTE - Boiled beef, diced diced or or cut cut in in thin thin slices, slices, seasoned seasoned with with salt, salt, pepper, pepper, oil, oil, vinegar, vinegar, onion onion and and chopped chopped parsley. parsley. Serve Serve with with siiciO sliced Uoited boiled potatoes. potatoes.

The invention inventionof fermented beverages offermented beveragesfrom The grainis fromgrain isattriattributed to to the the Egyptians, Egyptians, who who practised practised the buted themanufacture manufacture of of alcoholic liquor papyri liquor from from grain grain at at least5,000 yearsago. least 5,000 years alcoholic ago.Papyri of period the 1300B.e. s.c. refer refer to tothe of the period 1300 theregulation regulation of ofbeer beJrshops strops to to prevent people people over over indulging indulging in prevent in beer. beer. The The Egyptians Egyptians made made several kinds kinds of beer, and of beer, and they they also several also made madeaawine winefrom from barley barley which they they called called xithum. xithum. which The Pannonians, Pannonians, who who lived lived along The along the Danube, made the Danube, made aa potent drink drink out out of of barley barley and potent and millet. millet. A A similar similar beverage beverage existed in in Illyria. Illyria. Teutons Teutons made made aa kind existed kind of of wine wine from from ferfeimented barley barley and and wheat. wheat. 'The 'The people mented people of of the the west,' west,' said said 'get drunk Pliny, 'get drunk on grain.' on mouldy mouldy grain.' Phny, The beer beer made made by by all all these people was The these people was not not intended intended to be to be

been beenderived derived from from the the French French beaufaitier beaufaitier-- one one who who attends attends the the buffet. buffet. It It is is more more likely likely that that these these yeomen yeomen were were called caUed beef-eaters beef-eatersin inthe theseventeenth seventeenthcentury, century,fiom from their theirreceiving receivingaa large daily ration of beef. large daily ration of beef.

Guardon onduty dutyat atthe theTower Towerof ofLondon. London. The Thename name may may have have _Guard

BEEF-EATERS BEEF-EATERS -- Nickname Nickname given given to to the the yeoman Yeoman of of the the

BEER. BEER. ndipe BIRE-- A A generic generic term terrn used used for for all ail fermented fermented malt malt beverages, beverages,and andincludes includesporter, porter,ale aleand and stout. stout. The The beverage beverage is is obtained obtained through through the the action action of ofyeast yeast on on an an infusion infusion 6f of malted malted cereals. cereals. It It is is aa refreshing refreshing and and slightly slightly stimulating stimulating drink drinkwhich whichhas hassome sornefood foodvalue. value.
116 116

Hop field (J. Boyer) Boyer) Hopfield,(J.

kept. kept. Hops Hops were were later later introduced introduced in in the the brewing brewing of of beer beer in in theNetherlands, Netherlands, and and in in the the fifteenth fifteenth century century in in England. England. the In all ail regions regions and and at at all ail latitudes, latitudes, beer beer is is brewed brewed from from In

BEER

BEER

Beer: Beer: filtering fiJtering and and refrigeration refrigeration (Gruber, (Gruber, Melun) Melun) (Iarousse) (Larousse)

assembly line (Heineken) (Adwindig) Beer: Beer: bottle botlle assembly line (Heineken) (Adwindig)

various cereals: cereals: wheat, oats, rice rice (the (the Japanese sake), sak), millet, millet, various corn), sorghum, etc; etc; and and even ev en from from starchy starchy maize (U.S. corn), maize (U.S. are not roots (srveet (sweet potatoes, potatoes, cassava), cassa va), when when cereals cereals are not roots available. produced Industrial brewing.In brewing. ln Europe, beer is generally produced In&tstial wort, a sweetened sweetened juice, fermentation of a juice, the wort, alcoholic fermentation by the alcoholic a micro-organism, micro-organism, by a fermented by flavoured with hops and fermented hops and flivoured with flour malt flour product of the maceration of malt yeast. The wort is the product The wort temperacontrolled temperaat suitably controlled or sprouted barley in water at purpose The purpose fermentable' The tures. Cereal starch is is not directly fermentable. is to to breed in the the malting process is of germinating germinating the the barley in of the the transformation of induce the transformation enzymes in grain; these these induce in the grain; process' mashing process. the mashing during the maltose during starch or maltose sugar or starch into malt sugar barley the barley picked over, over, the and picked After cleaned and been cleaned having been After having malt to the the malt dispatched to grains and dispatched tuns, and in tuns, grains are soak in set to to soak are set kilns, tbus thus malt kilns, in malt drid in houses. is then then dried barley is The sprouted sprouted barley [ouser. The according regulated according is regulated arresting This operation operation is gerrnination. This arresting germination. manufacture for the the manufacture pale malt malt for to malt desired: desired: pale quality of of malt the quality to the of manufacture of the manufacture malt for for the of flavoured malt pale ale; ale; coloured, coloured, flavoured of pale rootthe rootis to to say, say, the that is brown degermed; that is then then degermed; malt is ale. The The malt brown ale protein a high high protein have a These have lets removed. These are removed. combs are malt combs lets or or malt feed' cattle feed. ideal cattle them ideal and makes them which makes content which nitrogen content and nitrogen put to to is put malt is crushed malt During process the the crushed mashing process the mashing During ~he of temperature of toaatemperature macerate heated to mixture heated and the the mixture water and in water macerate in is which is operation, which 75C. this operation, (167'F.). ln of this course of In the thecourse 75"C. (16rF.). by istransformed transformed by done starch is thestarch infusion, the or infusion, by decoction decoction or done by saccharification' process of of saccharification. enzymes is the the process this is into sugar: sugar: this enzymes into called residue,ca the residue, The lied from the filtration from byfiltration separated by isseparated wort is The wort is wortis filtered wort The filtered the food. The cattle food. ascattle usedas also used ii also this is draff; this thedraff; g' 500g. 150to to500 proportion of of150 cooked inthe theproportion are added added in and hops hopsare cooked and gallons)' gallons,28 per 28 gallons). per22 22gallons, (5OZ.to 18oz. oz.per perhectolitre oz. to18 hectolitre (5 The tuns'The The fermentation tuns. to fermentation thensent sentto isthen wort is cooled wort Thecooled andthe the processand addition theprocess yeast completes completes the of culture cultureyeast additionof (32"or or 2'C'(32 0oor or2C. beer to0 cooledto cellars cooled maturing cellars placed in inmaturing isplaced beeris oftime time lengthof 36F.), variablelength foraavariable remainsfor where it remains 36'F.), where depending quality. andquality. itstype typeand uponits dependingupon fermentation There lowfermentation beer:low ofbeer: principal types typesof aretwo twoprincipal Thereare of inthe typeof thetype beers differin Theydiffer beers.They fermentation beers. andhigh highfermentation beersand inthe the andin leavening fermentationand offermentation speedof thespeed inthe uied,in leavening used, temperature method thetemperature former,the Inthe theformer, wort.In thewort. ofmashing mashingthe methodof l0'C. of above10C. artificiallyabove maintainedartificially fermentationisismaintained offermentation the ofthe (50F.). mostof daysmost twelvedays totwelve periodof ofsix sixto (50"F.).After Aftera aperiod bottom leavening deposit thebottom atthe depositat formsa a andforms precipitated and leaveningisisprecipitated ferof 'lowbottom bottomferterm'low theterm comesthe whichcornes fromwhich tun,from thetun, ofthe rises mentation the temperaturerises thetemperature case, secondcase, thesecond yeast'.ln Inthe mentation yeast'.

it

lasts from two (59' or 68'F.). Fermentation or 68F.). 15" or or 20'C. to to 15 20C. (59 Fermentation lasts from two the liquid, of the the top top of gathers at at the yeast gathers the yeast days, and and the four days, to four to liquid, yeast'. 'top fermentation fermentation yeast'. term 'top hence the term hence the most universaJJy universally be the the most used to to he which used Top fermentation, fermentation, which Top and Belgium and Britain, Belgium in Britain, employed in is stiU still employed popuiar method, method, is popular since has developed developed since fermentation has Bottom fermentation France. Bottom noithem France. northern possible the makes possible It makes refrigeration. It of refrigeration. introduction of the introduction the the beer. quality of consistent a more production of production of a more consistent quality of beer. yeastless beer a yeastless is a Belgium, is in Belgium, mostly in manufactured, mostly Also manufactured, Also beer andfaro. lambic and called lambic called faro. filtered, is beer the beer is filtered, cellars the maturing cellars period in in the the maturing a period After a After easily so easily liquid, so This Iiquid, bottles. This or bottles. in casks casks or conditioned in then conditioned then premises The premises handling. The careful handling. most careful the most requires the spoiled, requires spoiled, regularly and regularly clean and perfectly clean must he be perfectly and receptacles receptacles must and generally is generaJJy bottles is in boUles conditioned in beer conditioned The beer sterilised. The sterilised. 65'C. to 65C. of 60 60' to temperature of to aa temperature heated to pasteurised - heated pasteurised (140'to 149'F.). (140 to 149F.). acid carbonic acid pressure with with carbonic under pressure charged under is charged beer is Bottled beer Bottled preserved, be preserved, flavour to to he and flavour freshness and all its its freshness which enables enables ail which it is isopened. opened. immediately it consumedimmediately it is isconsumed provided that that it provided classed in be classed to he used to beers used (bottom) fermentation fermentation beers Low (bottom) Low in brown strong brown beer;munich, blendbeer; pilsen,a light blend three types: types: pilsen, a light munich, aastrong three decreasrapidly beer amber-coloured beer rapidly decreasvienne,aasweet, sweet, amber-coloured beer: vienne, beer; popularity. inpopularity. ing in ing brews: English brews: arethe theEnglish beers are fermentation the top topfermen Amongthe Among tation beers There beers.There brownbeers. porterand stout, brown andstout, paleale, blendbeer; ale,i pale a blend beer; porter Berlin' andBerlin, Louvain and ofLouvain whitebeers beers of thewhite beers: the alsospecial specialbeers: lrealso are to belongto beersbelong various beers Belgium. Thevarious ofBelgium.The andfaro thelambic lambicand faro of the pilsen-type of is the distributed widely most The types. these these types. The most widely distributed is the pilsen-type of arre as many thereare thatthere tosay saythat however, to paleale. Itisistrue, true,however, ale.It pale as many arebreweries. breweries' asthere thereare beeras ofbeer varietiesof varieties inevery every notthe thesame samein beerisisnot ofbeer unitof legaldensimetric densimetricunit Thelegal The tendency Thereisis 'Rigie'degree. degree.There the Franceititisisthe InFrance country.ln country. 'Rgie' aa tendency conextractconis,the theextract thatis,' extract- -that originalextract tothe theoriginal backto referback torefer to never densityisisnever Thisdensity fermentation. This before wortbefore bythe thewort tainedby tained fermentation. of contentof alcoholiccontent thealcoholic forthe degrees,for inalcoholic alcoholicdegrees, expressedin expressed the ofthe diminutionof onthe the attenuation - -on itsattenuation onits dependson beer beer depends diminution of contentof alcoholcontent Thealcohol fermentation. The of courseof inthe the extractin extract course fermentation. accordingto to fluctuates extractfluctua originalextract the madefrom fromthe beersmade beers original tes according attenuation. of degree the the degree of attenuation. the accordingtoto variesaccording beers of compositionof Theihemical The chemical composition beers varies the alcohol of volume The wort.The originalwort. the of density and typeand type density of the original volume of aJcohol per sometimes cent, per cent to from rangesfrom contains tains ranges 33 per cent to 66 per cent, sometimes itiicon particular beers beer. English the upon greater,depending dependingupon greater, the beer. English beers inin particular amount. this can exceed can exceed this amount.

t17 117

BEESTINGS

BEESTINGS
Beer (German sorp cookery). soupE re sriRE Dilute Beer soup (German cookery). SOUPE A LA BIRE - _ Dilute 150 (q.v.) oz.) light roux made butter and flour with 150 g.g. (5(5 oz.) light roux (q.v.) made ofof butter and flour with (2f lIlitres litres pints, pints) 3{ light beer. Mix well. Season with It (2i pints, 3i pints) light beer. Mix weil. Season with salt and pepper and add teaspoons fine sugar and salt and pepper and add 22 teaspoons fine sugar and aa small small pinch powderedcinnamon. cinnamon.Bring Bring the boil, and powdered toto the boil, and simmer for pinch simmer for 25 minutes. 25 minutes. B9{ore serving, thickenwith with2 2 pint, dt. scant Before serving, thicken dL (1(+ pint, scant cup) cup) double cream.Pour Pour overthin thinslices slices oftoast toast into double cream. over of into aa soup soup tureen whileitit stillboiling. boiling. tureen while isis still

lighter bodied bodied th thrin the European b.r.op"a, lager beer which is lighter an the varieties. There is a large volume of importing and expoiting varieties. There is a large volume of importing and exporting of beers between Europe and the United States. of beers between Europe and the United States. Barley beer. cpnvons - Decoction of barley, fermented - Decoction of barley, fermented Barley beer. CERVOISE with- yeast - perhaps derived from fermenting grapes, which with yeast perhaps derived from fermenting grapes, which produces a kind of barley wine rather than Jbeer. This was produces a kind of barley wine rather than a beer. This was a drink of the ancient Gauls. a drink of the ancient Gauls. Ginger beer. sriRn DE GINGEMBnT - Boil 2t ke. (5 lb.) loaf Ginger beer. BIRE DE GINGEMBRE - Boil 2i kg. (5 lb.) loaf sugar, 75 g. (3 oz, * cup) ground ginger and l litres (3 gal_ sugar, 75 g. (3 oz., i cup) ground ginger and 14 litres (3 gallon9, 3f gallons) water for I hour. When cold, add the jriice Ions, 3i gallons) water for 1 hour. When cold, add the juice and thinly peeled rind of 5 lemons. Add cup brewer's yeast + cup brewer's yeast and thinly peeled rind of 5 Iemons. Add -!smeared on a piece of toast. Keep in a wooden tub, covered smeared on a piece of toast. Keep in a wooden tub, covered with a thick cloth, for 2 or 3 days. Strain through a cloth, with a thick c1oth, for 2 or 3 days. Strain through a c1oth, bottle, and cork securely, tying the corks down bottle, and cork securely, tying the corks down. The beer will be ready for drinking in 4 or 5 days. If a The beer will be ready for drinking in 4 or 5 days. If a stronger brew is desired, add more ginger. st ronger brew is desired, add more ginger. Home-made beer I. nrinn or u6N.l,cn - Boil 2 litres (3* Home-made beer I. BIRE DE MNAGE - Boil 2 litres (3t pints, 4| pints) ordinary barley n 22 litres (4f gallons, pints, 4t pints) ordinary barley in 22 litres (4i gallons, gallons) water for 2 hours. Add 125 g. (4 oz.\ hops and 6 6 gallons) water for 2 hours. Add 125 g. (4 oz.) hops and g. (t lO 10 g. (1 ^oz-) oz.) chicory, chicory, and and leave leave to to infuse. infuse. Strain, Strain, and and pour pour into (6]-gallon, 8-gallon) tun. into a a 30-litre 30-litre (6t-gallon, 8-gallon) tun. Add Add l* li kg. kg. (2i (2, tb.) lb.) sugar which has been dissolved in l0 litres (9 quarti, I I sugar which has been dissolved in 10 litres (9 quarts, II quarts) water. Mix well. Leave the tun uncovered until the quarts) water. Mix weil. Leave the tun uncovered until the following following day. day. Add Add 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz.) oz.) brewer's brewer's yeast yeast which which has has been been dissolved dissolved in a little hot water. Stir with a stick. Leave the tun open for in a little hot water. Stir with a stick. Leave the tan open for 6 6 days. days. Add Add more more liquid Iiquid every every morning morning and and evening evening to to replace that lost lost through through fermentation. fermentation. On On the the seventh seventh iav. day, replace that bung the barrel, and bung the barrel, and on on the the eighth eighth day, day, bottle bottle the the beer. beer. Boii Boil the corksin inwater waterfor for 55minutes, minutes, and and cork cork the the bottles boules tightly. tightly. thecorks Home-made Home-madebeer beerIL II. srtRE BIREor DEMfNlce MNAGE-- Boil Boil lm 100E. g. G (4 o;.) oz.) hulled g. (lS (18 o2.,2f, oz., 2* cups) cups) sugar sugarand and aa hindful handful oi of hulled barley, barley, 500 500g. l-top_r i" 4 litres (3] quarts, 4] quarts) water; keep boiling hops in 4 litres (3t quarts, 4t quarts) water; keep boiling for hour. oz.) yeast hour. Remove Removefrom from heat, heat,aaa add tO 10g. g.(* (~oz.) yeastand and td 10 forf1 litres I quarts) litres(9 (9quarts, quarts,I Il quarts)water. water. Leave bottleand and cork. cork. (A (Alittle little Leaveto toferment fermentfor for44days, days,then thenbottle bu_rnt,sugar burnt sugarmay maybe beadded added to tothis this beer beerto togive giveititcolour.) colour.) Mah MALr adding -- This Maltbeer. beer.sriRE BIREos DE MALT Thisbeer beerisisobtainod obtainedby byadding concentrated concentratedmalt maltextract extractto tothe thewort wortand andletting Iettingititfermeni ferment slightly. slightly.It Ithas hasmuch muchgreater greaternutritive nutritivepropertieJ propertiesthan than ordi_ ordinary andisisused usedas asaatonic, tonic,or orfor fornuising nursingmothers. mothers. narybeer beerand

The extract is formed by dextrines, the maltose not trans_ The extract is formed by dextrines, the maltose not transformed into alcohol, and by soluble nitrogenous substances. formed into alcohol, and by soluble nitrogenous substances. It is present in the proportion of from 4 io 9 per cent. This Itextract is present in the proportion of from 4 to 9 per cent. This is what gives a sensation of fullness to thi palate which extract is what gives a sensation of fuUness to the palate which the tasters call the mash. rtis also due to this extiact that the the tasters cali the mash. It is also due to this extract that the carbonic acid forms the substantial froth or head which carbonic forms the substantial froth or head which indicates acid careful drawing and skilful brewing. drawing and skilful brewing. indicates Beer careful contains amyloides, protides, alcohol, minerals, Beer con tains amylodes, protides, alcohol, minerais, vitamins, etc. It is an excellent beverage easily assimilated by It is an excellent beverage easily assimilated by vitamins, etc. the body. The alcohol and the hops' extract have a stimulat_ the The alcohol and the hops' extract have a stimulatingbody. effect. It can be used in a considerable number of dishes. ing effect. It can be used in a considerable number of dishes. A Belgian Belgian culinary school strongly recommends the beer A culinary school strongly recommends the beer dishes conceived by the late chef Raoul Morleghem. dishes conceived by the late chef Raoul Morleghem. In- France, a special governmental body makes a regular _ ln France, a special governmental body makes a regular check on beers, and severely punishes anyinfraction, olth. check on beers, and severely punishes any infractions of the manufacturing regulations. manufacturing regulations. Besides the basic elements used in its manufacture (barley, Besides the basic elements used in its manufacture (barley, hops, yeast), beer is rich in mineral salts and vitamins (Br, and vitamins (B 1> hops, yeast), beer is rich in minerai salts Bz,Brr, PP). Its consumption must be controlled, orrather raihei B 2 , B 12 , PP). Its consumption must be controlled, or drastically reduced, in the case of overweight, gout, and drastically reduced, in the case of overweight, gout, and diabetes, as well as in certain types of dyspepsla. It is recom_ diabetes, as in certain types of dyspepsia. It is recommended as inweil diets for increasing weight, ind for nursing and for nursing mended in diets for increasing weight, mothers, so long as it does not have too strong an alcoholii mothers, sa long as it does not have too strong an alcoholic content. content. Ale, and porter are consumed consumod in in much much greater greater Ale, .stout stout and porter are quantities in Europe than in U.S.A. Some ale is manufaitured quantities in Europe than in U .S.A. Sorne ale is manufactured in the United States, but most American breweries produce a in the United States, but most American breweries produce a

BEESTINGS. AMOUILLE .c,MouLr,E Name commonlygiven givento BEESTINGS. - - Name commonly tothe the firstmilk milkof ofa a cow afterparturition. parturition. cow after first BEESWAX. CIRE crRE Producttransformed transformedfrom fromthe BEESWAX. - - Product thehoney honev absorbedby bytheworking the workingbee, bee, whichitituses usesto to constructthe absorbed which construct the cellsin inhoneycombs honeycombsand andin inthe theinterior interiorof ofthe thehive. hive. cells Thename namecires ciresvgtales vigitalesisisgiven givento tosubstances substancesextracted The extracted fromcertain certainvegetables, vegetables,in particularfrom inparticular fromcertain certainpalms. palms. from BEET- -See SeeBEETROOT. BEETROOT. BEET

lager beer which is

BEETROOT(U (U.S. Beet).BETTERAVE BETTERAVE - - There Thereare aremany BEETROOT .S. Beet). many varieties of plant,sorne ofthis thisplant, somecultivated cultivatedsolely solelvfor varieties fordistillery distillerv purposes, sorne someas asanimal animal foodstuff foodstuff and andsorne, purposes, some,as asin inthe thecase casl ofgarden beet,as asvegetable. vegetable. of garden beet, Among bestvarieties the best varietiesof gardenbeetroot of garden Among the beetrootare: are: red red stump-rooted,dark dark red redMassy, Massy, large large red, stum'p-rooted, red,early earlyred globe, redglobe, dark red red turnip-rooted turnip-rooted Egyptian, Egyptian, red globesummer dark beet, redglobe summeibeet, globeearly dark red red globe early beet. beet. dark

iir:

Five varieties variclies of beelmol of beetrool

The The Romans Romans used used beetroot beetroot leaves as a vegetable. vegetable. In Russian cookery cookery both both the the roots and the leaves Ieaves of of beets beets In Russian are are used, used, notably notably for for various soups soups (see (see SOUPS SOUPS AND AND BROTHS, BROTHS, Beetroot Beetraot soup soup d la la Russe). Russe). Beetroot Beetroot in in hors-d'euyre hors-d'uvre is refreshing refreshing and increases increases the the appetite appetite but but is is not not recommended recommended for for sufferers sufferers of of dyspepsia dyspepsia and and colitis, colitis, since since it it is is inclined inclined to to be be indigestible indigestible and it, its cellulose "rra cellulose fibres fibres can can cause cause flatulence. flatulence. For For information information on on sugar sugar beet, beet, see see SUGAR. SUGAR. Beetroot Beetroot leaves Ieaves are are perfectly perfectly edible, edible, and and are are used used in in manv many recipes. recipes. In In France France the the roots, roots, boiled boiled or or baked, baked, are are used used as as garnish garnish for for salads, salads, hors-d'euvre hors-d'uvre and and various various game game entries. entres. Wash Washand and scrub scrubthe thebeets beetswith witha a brush. brush. Dry Dry tlem them and and bake bake in in the. the oyen. They They are are ready ready when when they they bLgin begin to to .give, 'give' a a -oven. little, ifpressed pressed with with a a finger. finger. Keep Keep in in a a cool cool place. place. little, if Beet Beet i l'anglaise. l'anglaise. BETTERAvEs BETTERAVES A I'aNGLArsp L'ANGLAISE _ - Choose Choose tender tender beets, beets, peel, peel, cut cut into into slices slices and and boil boil in in salted salted water. water. Drain, Drain,dry dryand and serve servewith with fresh fresh butter. butter. l18 118

sf,NEotcrN BNDICTIN
22beets beelSin in the the oven, oyen, peel, peel, and and cut eut into into fairly fairly thick lhick slices. slices.

ntcruurr AA LA srlrBRA.vES Beetroot i illalab6chamel. - - Bake Beetroot bchamel. SETTERA VES LA BCHAMEL Ba ke

2 2 cups) ClipS) pre-boiled pre-boled cream. cream. Cook Cook down down by by half,

Simmer inaasaut6 sautpan panwith wth22tablespoons tablespoons(3 (3 tabletableSimmergently in spoons) pinehof ofsalt. salt. spoons)butter and andaapinch To Ta serye, serve, cover caverwith wth not nOI too too thick thick Bichamel Bchamelsauce sauce (see (see SAUCE), (0which whichbutter butlerhas hasbeen beenadded. added. SAUCE),to Beetroot -- Stew incream. cream.BETTERAvEs BETTERA VESAr.l LAcntue CRME Stewslices slicesof of Beetrootin beet beetin inbutter. butter. Dilute Dilutethe thepan panjuices juieeswith with44dl. dl.(f (tpint, scant scant
season, season, remove in 50 50 g. g. Q (2 oz., oz., Il cup) cup) butter, butter, and and remove from from heat, heat, blend blend in pour pourover overthe the beets. beets. Beetroot garllish. BETTERAvES BITTERA VES PouR POlSR GARNITURES GARNITVRES -Beetmot for for garnish. Choose Choosewell-shaped, well-shaped, uniformly unifonnlysized sized beetroot. beetrooL Bake Dake them themin in the the oven, oyen, allow allow to to become becorne quite quite cold, cold, and and peel. peel. Cut Cut into into julienne. slices or dice, d ice. or or shred sh red into in 10 aa julienne. slices or Prepared Prepa re<! in in this this way way beetroot beetroor can can be be served served as as a a garnish gamish for for hors-d'euvre IlDrs-d'u\'re or or for for salads. salads. Beetroot in gravy. BETTERAVEs BETTERA VES AU AU JUs JUS - Proceed Proceed as as dedeBeetroot in scribed in the recipe for BeetroOl in n cream, cream, replacing replacing the the for Beetroot latter by 2 dl. (+ pint, scant Clip) thickened thickened brown brown veal veal stock. stock. scant cup) Boil the beets in few moments. moments. in the stock stock for for a a few Beetroot Il la la lyonnaise. lyonnaise. BETTERAvEs BEITERAVES A u. LA rvorvNllsn LYONNAISE - Melt Melt Beetroot I 50 50 g. (2 (2 oz., oz., I~. cup) butter butter in in a a pan, pan, add add 4 4 tablespoons tablespoons (5 (5 tablespoons) finely chopped chopped onion, onon, cook cook slowly slowly without without allowing it to colour, add add sliced sliced beetroot beetroot and and simmer simmer together. together. (* pint, scant Before 2 dl. dL Ci pint, scant cup) cup) Before serving, serving, moisten moisren with with 2 thickened thickened brown brown veal veal stock. stock. portEvtt'ts - Stew Beetroot Beelroot i la poitevine. poitevine. BErrERAvEs.l, BEITERAVES u LA POlTEVIl\i"E $tew sliced beetroot becrroot for a few few moments moments in in 2 2 dl. dl. (* Ci pint' scant sC<tnt cup) cup) Lyonnaise Lyonnaise sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE)' SAUCE). Add Add a a tablespoon vinegar vinegar before serving. cAssoLETTEs DE Stuffd Stuffed beetroot cassolettes. CASSOLETTES DE BETTERAvES BETTERAVES large Bake large as hors-d'uvre. hors-d'euvre. Bake served as These are are served cARMES GARNIES - These to Trim these these 10 slices. Trim thick slices. into thick cut them into oven and en! beets in the oyen comhors'd'euvre comwith cold cold hors-d'uvre fill with and flll like casso/elles cassolettes and look like look vegefish, vegeeggs' fish, (q.v.) of hard-boiled eggs, of hard-boiled position: salpicons salpicons (q.v.) position: pur6es, etc. etc' various pures, mayonnaise, various with mayonnaise, dressed with tables, dressed

Season it with very large floury potatoes' this thisdish.) dish.)Cover Coyer it with very potaloes. Season top' a lid on fat or butter' Place with sprinkle und it.r. a lid on top, these and sprinkJe with fat or flour-and-water paste' Bake in cinders a wlttr it r"uii"g sealing il with a ftour-and-water paste. Bake in cinders glowing charcoal for 4 to 5 hours' Serve in the mixeiwith mixed with charcoal for 4 to 5 hours. Serve in the cooked' in which it has been recbptacle reptacle in has beell cooked. See INTERNATIONAL COOKERY' BELGIUM RELGIUM- - Sec INTERNATIONAL COOKERY. dessert pear An excellent winter BELLE-ALLIANCE BELLE-ALLlANCE -- An excellent winter dessert pear January). The skin is yellowish on one side and ip"".*U". (Oecember and January). The skin is yellowish on one side other. and and red redon on the the other. Variety of large winter pear' Its skin BELLE-ANGEVINE BELLE-ANGEVINE-- Variety oflarge winter pear. Ifs skin becomes bright yellow, flushed with red ir!t.* is green at atfirst, tirsl,then then becomes brght yellow, l1ushoo wilh red brown. and and pitted with wi th brown. in February and March, is better to This pear, in season season in February and March, is beUer to pear, in eat, and is used mostly for.filling decorative to atlhan look look at than 10 cat, and is used mostly for filling decorative fruit. baskets of fruit. baskelS of Variety of peach, with bright red BELLE-CHEVREUSE BELLE-CHEVREUSE -of pcach, with red be eaten when it is just ripe; when it is too It should skin. skin. It should be eaten when il just ripe; when is too becomes'sleePY'. flesh its ripe, ripe, its ftesh becomes sleepy'. Another name for a variety of pear BELLE-DE-BERRY BELLE-DE-BERRY - Another name for a variety of pear poire de curi' called called poire de cur. Pear with mediocre flesh, usually BELLE-ET-BONNE BELLE-ET-BONNE - Pear with mediocre flesh, usually in syrup or red wine. cooked cooked in syrup or red wine.

the for the France for parts of of France in some some parts used in Name use<! BEGUINETTE -- Name BGUJNETTE garden warbler. garden

FRITTERS. SCC FRITTERS. BEIGNETS -- See BEIGNETS (18 oz., 3] oz.' 3 500 g. (18 I -- Pound Pound 500 (petits fours) fours) 1 Beignets Beignet .. (petits t cups) 5 sugar and 5 (18 OZ., cups) sugar g. (18 oz., 2] cups) 500 g. with almonds wi blancfied almonds blanched th 500 whites. egg whites. egg or orange or vanilla' orange with vanilla, flavour with and flavour whole eggs, eggs, and 2 whole Add 2 Add with Colour with pineapple. COIOUf crystallised pineapple. peel, or shredded cryslallised or shredded lemon peel, lemon in J16 Fold in agent. Fold colouring agent. or green vegetable colouring carmini or 6 carmine and buttered and into bUHered and spoon spoon into egg whites, and stiffiy whisked egg stiffly candied piecesof of candied with pieces Decorate with moulds. DecoraU! petits fours moulds. flouied petilsfours f10ured inaa and bake bake in icing sugar sugarand with iCng pineapple. Sprinkle Sprinkle with or pneapple_ orange or orange oven. slowoyen. slow (9oz., cups) g-(9 lf cups) oz, Il 250g. Pound together 250 tr --- Pound Beigneb II generous cup) cup)sugar. sugar' (9oz., g.(9 oz.,generous and 250 g_ almonds and blanched almonds egg' whole egg. inone onewhole blend in andblend mixtureand themixture tothe egg white white to Addone oneegg Add with vanilla. vanilla. Flavour with Flavour into a very stifffroth and fold them into whites into eggwhites Whisk88cgg Whisk with sprinkle with moulds,sprinkJe into small biscuit moulds, Spooninto mixture.Spoon themixture. the oven. inaaslow slowoyen. andbake bakein sugar,and icingsugar, icing

of historyof inthe thehistory goesfar backin farback thatgoes Adish dish,har BEILCI{E - - A BElLCHE caisine. Germancuisine. German surMakesurbeef.Make ofbeef roundof fatfrom froma around thefat andremove remove[he Trimand Trim notbe be (theseculS mustoot cutsmust allover overitit(these cross-wise ail incisionscross-wise faceincisions face pepper and withsalt, salt, incisionswith theincisions insidethe Seasoninside deep).Season toodeep). too pepper and spices. spices. (In pan'(ln cast-ironpan. orcast-iron largeterrine terrineOf beefinina alarge thebeef Placethe Place for employed be usedto to receptableused silver Germany,a a special Germany, special silver rcceptable he employed for
119 119

Peach which ripens in September and BELLE-GARDE BELLE-GARDE - Peach which ripens in September and Its flesh is on the firm side, and it is mostly used for October. October. Its flesh is on the firm side, and it is mostly used for in pastry-making. compotes compotes and and in Pastry-making. fig, which grows in variety of very large BELLONE large fig, which grows in BELLOI'\'E - A A variety of These figs are used for preserves' Provence. Provence. These figs are used preserves. in Brittany. The oysters of the beds there BELON - River BELON River in Brinany. The oysters of the beds there same name. bear bear the the same name. sA'TTHAZAR - Colloquial usage for copious BELSHAZZAR. BELSHAZZAR. BALTHAZAR -Colloquial usage for copious the famous feasts mentioned in the to the an allusion allusion to meals; famous feasts mentoned in the meals; an Bible. Bible. Huso) - The white sturgeon of the Bjack BELUGA (Huso Huso) - The white sturgeon of the Black Sea and other waters' It is the largest of the Caspian Sea, Sea, Sea and other wa lers. ft is the largest of the producing the best caviafe' sturgeon family, sturgeon family, producing the bcsl caviare. a variety of ortolan found in the for Local name BENARI -- Local BNARI name for a variety of ortolan found in the They are fattened in the same way as the district. They Languedoc district are fattened in the same way as lhe ortolans. For methods of preparation see district ortolans. Landes district For methods of preparation see ORTOLAN. ORTOLAN. (Cake) - Cream in a bowl 250 g. (9 oz., BENEDICTIN (Cake) BNDICTIN - Cream in a bowl 250 g. (9 oz., 2! cups) ground almonds, 250 g- (9 oz., generous cup) fine 2! almonds, 250 g.yolks. (9 OZ., cup) flne j *ttot" eggs is When the mixture and 12 egg .igut, the mixture is sugar, eggs and 12 egg yolks. add 2 more eggs, one by one. Mix well, and add I r-toih, smooth, add 2 more eggs, one by one. 100 Mix g. well, and add 1 (4 oz, I :"p) tablespoon Benedictine liqueur; and tablespoon Benedictine liqueur; andpotato 100 g.flour (4 OZ., 1 cup) have which sieved flour, and 100 g. (4 oz',3 sieved Oour, and 100 (4 oz., ",-tp) potato flour which have been first sieved together. been flfst sieved baking tins, sprinkle with flour, and 611 lvvs-lhirds Butter Butter bakng sprinkle with flour, and fil] two-thirds full with the caki mixtuie. Bake in an oven at 180'C. (350'F., full with the cake mixture. Bake in an oven at 180c' (350F., Gas Mark 4). Remove cakes from the tins as soon as they are Gas Mark 4): Remove cakes from the tins as soon as they are and cool on a flat wire rack. Sprinkle each cake with baked baked and cool on a flat wire rack. each cake with Benedictine, and when this is absorbed, cover the tops and coyer' the IOps and Benedictine, and when this is sides of the cakes with thick apricot jatn. Decorate the sides of the cakes with thick apricot jarn. Decorale the sides sides withchopped chopped roasted almonds. with roasted almonds. Ice the top of the cakes with pale yellow fondanticingwhich lce the top of the cakes with pale yellow been flavoured with Benedictine, and when it is sel make has has been flavoured with Benedictine, and when il is on it with mauve fondant icing, using a patternof of squareson a apattern it wlh mauve fondant a square with half a each the centre of forcing-bag. Decotate the a forcing-bag. centre of each square pistachio nut. pistachio nuL The same mixture can be used for small iced petits fours' smaU iced petits fours. The same mixture can be use<:! for made as described above, but is steeped in Thecake cakeisismade The as described above, but is steeped in and cut into uniform squares before icing' Decorate liqueurand liqueur eut into uniform squares before icing. Dccorate petit foar with a mauve fondant spiral' eich each petit four with a mauve fondant spiral.

BENEDICTINE BENEDICTINE
BENEDICTINE. BNDICTINE s6NforcrrNE -- Renowned Renowned French French liqueur liqueur BENEDICTINE. invented by by the Benedictine monks the Benedictine monks at at the Abbey of F6camp, the Abbey of Fcamp, invented produced there. and still still produced there. and BENfDICTII\B ( (A LA) LA) -- Garnish poached fish Garnish suitable suitable for for poached fish BNDICTINE or eggs, eggs, composed composed of (q.v.) of of a a brandade brandade (q.v.) of cod cod and and truffies. truffies. or Salt cod cod i la h bndictine. benedictine. MORUE uonun i, LA L,c, BNDICTINE sfNEorcrrNE -- The The Salt pounded as cod is is pounded as for for brandade, brandade, but potatoes but mixed mixed with with potatoes cod prepared as (See SALT pur6e. (See as for for pure. SALT COD.) COD.) prepared

(Erit") -- Famous BERNARD (mile) Famous nineteenth nineteenth century century chef chef BERNARD employed by by Wilhelm Wilhekn l, I, King King of of Prussia. Prussia. In In collaboration employed collaboration with Urbain Urbain Dubois Dubois he he wrote wrote one one of of the the best best cookery cookery books with books period: Cuisine of the the period: Cuisine classique. classique. of
(A LA) BERRICHONNE ( LA) -- Garnish Garnistr used for large used for large cuts cuts of BERRICHONNE of meat and and especially especially for for mutton. mutton. It It is is composed composed of meat of braised braised cabbage, sm small onions, chestnuts chestnuts and and rashers rashers of cabbage, ail onions, of streaky streaky bacon. bacon.
BERRY -- The The richest producing region richest sheep sheep producing region of But of France. France. But BERRY lamb and and mutton mutton are are not not the gastronomic assets the only only gastronomic assets of of lamb Berry. The province has The province has always always had had a reputation for for bonne a reputation Berry. bonne produces many chCre and and, produces many other other delicacies, delicacies, solid solid and liquid. and liquid. chre The cuisine cuisine of of the the Berry Berry region region has has an an agreeable agreeable simplicity. simplicity. The poultry of There is is the good ground the fine fine poultry ground and Bourges, good of Bourges, and winged winged There game, a great variety a great variety of freshwater fish, of freshwater including Vierzon fish, including Vierzon game, lamprey, and and excellent excellent fruit and and vegetables. vegetables. lamprey,

Joseph Berchoux (l 765-l 839) Berchoux (1765-1839) Joseph

(Joseph) BERCHOLIX (Joseph) French poet, poet, born born at at SaintBERCHOUX - French (Loire) in Symphorien-de-Lay (Loire) in 1765, 1765, who who made made a a name name for for Symphorien-de-Lay gastronomical literature himself in in gastronomical literature with poem entitled with a a poem entitled la Ia himself Gastronomie, published published in in 1800. 1800. Berchoux was not Gastronomie, Berchoux was not a gastronome, but poem was his poem but his was valued valued for for its its zest zest and and lightligbtgastronome, hearted, witty witty tone, tone, and and was was included included in in a a volume of volume of hearted, gastronomic writers quality of writers of of the the quality of Grimod Grimod de de la Reynire Reynibre gastronomic and Brillat-Savarin, Brillat-Savarin, published Charpentier in in 1829 l82g and published by by Charpentier under the les Classiques Classiques de de la la table. table. under the title title les

Argenton-sur-Crelx Argenton-sur-Creuse (French (French Government Government Tourist Tourisi Ofice) Office)
Bergamot

BERGAMOT BERGAMOT ORANGE. ORANGE. BERGAMoTE BERGAMOn: - Fruit Fruit of the the bergamot bergamot tree, tree, a a kind kind of of orange orange with with avery a very acid acid but but pleasant pleasant taste. The highly highly scented scented oil oil extracted from from its its rind rind is is used used taste. The in in perfumery, perfumery, pharmaceutics pharmaceutics and and confectionery. confectionery. Candied Candied bergamot is used bergamot peel peel is used in in phtisserie. ptisserie. The The bergamots bergamots of of Nancy Nancy are are the the most most sought sought after after in in confectionery. confectionery .
BERGAMOT BERGAMOT PEAR. PEAR. BERcAMoTE BERGAMOTE - Name Name applied applied to to several severa! varieties of pear. pear. The The bergamote bergamote d'automne d'automne is is the the best. best. varieties of BERLINGOTf BERLINGOT - A A hard, hard, sweet sweet candy candy variously variously flavoured, fiavoured, but of France France have have but usually usually with with peppermint. peppermint. Several Several regions regions of their of berlingots; berlingots; those those of of Carpentras Carpentras their own own special special variety variety of are are renowned. renowned. t20 120

of

Cufinavy Culinary specialities specialities - These include include soups SOUps with truches or tartouffes (potatoes), (potatoes), with reuves and salt pork; sanguine, a kind of pancake pancake made made with with chicken's chicken's blood; blood; various various kind of matelotes; citrouillat (pumpkin (pumpkin pie); pie); sauciaux, a a peasant pancake; pancake; truffiat, home-made potato scone; scone; grignaudcs,flat grignaudes, fiat cakes gs; poulet cakes made made of of pork pork greaves greaves or or cracklin cracklings; poulet en en barbouille, barbouille, chicken chicken coated coated with with its its own own blood; matafan, pancake; pancake; potato potato gouere goure or or gouiron. gouron. Wines Wines - Wine Wine connoisseurs connoisseurs have have a high high regard regard for for the the wines of this this region. region. And, And, indeed, indeed, the the very very dry dry white white wines wines wines of of of Berry Berry have have every right right to to be be acclaimed for for their their delicacy delicacy and and bouquet. bouquet. They They all ail come come from from the the Sauvignon grape. grape. Then Then there there are are the the Sancerre Sancerre wines wines from from the the vineyards vineyards surrounding surrounding the the town town of of that that name name (immortalised (immortalised by by Balzac) Balzac) and and those those in in the the neighbouring neighbouring communes, communes, particuparticularly Champtin, Saint-Satur, Saint-Satur, M6n6trol, Mntrol, larly Bu6, Bu, Verdigny, Verdigny, Champtin, Reigny, Reigny, Sury-en-Vaux. Sury-en-Vaux. The The hamlet hamlet of of Chavignol, Chavignol, near near Sancerre, Sancerre, produces produces famous famous wine wine which which the tbe poet poet Hugues Hugues l,apaire, Lapaire, a a native native of of Berry, Berry, placed placed far far above above the the rest. rest. Chavignol Chavigno! was was also also highly highly esteemed esteemed by of Nohant Nohant - George George by Balzac Balzac and and by by the the 'bonne 'bonne dame' dame' of Sand. Sand.

BEVERAGE BEVERAGE

GAHE

Goat's Milk

Bgul, VierZOn Watnuts S I Melons Lamprey C H ER \ Crayfish. Coq ou vin. SheeP' [::'giti:.T*"6jj' j"j lFrffi // Confectioherv, Beer l

MARCHE
of Berry Gastronomic map or Gastrollomie Berry

fish and and with with seafood, wines are seafood, fish are perfect with These wines with the are best best drunk the region. They are cheese of of the celebrated celebrated goat chccse slightly chilled. produced in in ros6 is is also also produd and fruit fruity dry and An y ros An excellent excellent dry good viotage grape. ln vintage In a a good Pinot grape. from the the black black Pinot Sancerre Sancerre from year a source. good red comes.from the same same source. red wine wine cornes' a very very good year from the which gives near Sancerre, Sancerre, which is Menetou-Salon, near Then there is Then there already mentioned. Still in the to those already white white wines wines similar similar to some white wines of almost dpartement dipartement of of Cher, Cher, at Quincy, sorne produced. quality are equally fine fine quality are produced.
is beginning a wine wine is beginning to Term indicaling indicating that that a BESAIGRE -- Tcrm SESAIGRE tum turn sour. sour.
and for salted salted and and Franche-Comt Franche-Comt6 for in the SESJ BESI -- Name Name in the Jura Jura and generic term for a a variety variety of of term for is also also a a generie It is dred cow's meat. meat. It dried cow's pear. pear. rousette d'Anjou. pear, also d'Aniou. called rouselte also calle<! Winter pear, Besi Besi de de Caissoy - Wnter from a a pear, whieh its na name which cakes takes its Besi me from Besi d'Hry rl'H6ry - Winter pear, it originated. forest where it originated. forest in in Brittany Brittany where pear with with white, white, succulent succulent Autumn pear Besi de la la Motte Motte - Autumn Besi de fiesh. flesh.

wild to descrihe describe a a wild in France France to Term used used in StTE BETE ROUSSE ROUSSE -- Term year old. boar months to to one one year old. boar six six months
pear. There varieties, There are are many many varicties, BEURR dessert pear. BEURRE -- Juey Juicy dessert nouveanr, gns and d'hiver nouveau, and beurr beurrC d'hiver among which are arc beurr beurrC gris among whieh beurri and February; February; beurr in January January and whieh reach maturity maturity in which reach ripe Gifard, ripe beurr| Giffard, Novembet; beurr and November; Cappiannonf, Cappiannonf, Oetober October and beurrC Die!. Diel. and beu.rr at of July, at the the end end of July, and to mouth to the mouth by the Liquid taken taken by BEVERAGE. BoIssoN -- Liquid BBVERAGE. BOISSON

proportion of in tbe the of water re-establistr normal normal proportion maintain or or re-establish maintain watcr in organism. 70 per cent water, approximately 70 Our bodies bodies con contain Our Iain approximately (5{ pints, 6} pints). litres (Si of 3 3 litres eliminating daily an average of daily an eliminating a C01nsi,cler'able considerable degree, to a When the water water content content is When is lowered to have to to replace We therefore therefore have results. We the sensation sensation of of tbirst thirst results. the which contain a foods whieh partly by water eliminated, solid foods by sold the watcr eliminated, partly the of water, partly by liquids. considerable proportion ofwater, considerable have been been "'VG'''''''invented. Apart from milk Numerous beverages have Numerous are (q.v.) which liquid food, beverages are is considered a a liqud which is (q.v.) classified in 6ve five ... categories: classitied "t'p(1,n.n."" waters (see WATER). l. Pure Pure water water and mineral mineral waters 1. (see INFUSIONS, INFUSIONS' 2. Aromatie Aromatic and and stimulating stimulating infusions (see 2. TE.!t) UEtf, TEA) dHOCOTAiN, MAT, HERBAL TEAS, TEAS, COFFEE, COFFEE, CHOCOLATE. HERBAL Bavarian these: Bavarian preparations based on these: based on as well well as as various various preparations as (dealt with alphabetical in alphabetical with in etc. (dealt bishop, etc. creams, iecd iced coffee, coffee, bishop, creams, order). by juices, freshly modified by not modined and not extracted and freshly extracted 3. Fruit juices, state in their their pure state either in drunk either fermentation, whlch which are are drunk fermentation, (lemonade, juice), or (grape juice), sugar (Jelm01naoe, water and with water and sugar or mixed mixed with (grape orangeade, etc.). etc.). orangeade, wine; is winc; which tS principal of of whieh 4. Fermented the principal Fermented beverages, beverages, the 4. liqueurs fruit liqueurs various fruit perry, hydromel and various hydromel and then beer, beer, eider, cider, perry, then large anotler large (dealt with There is is another order). There with in in alphabetical alphabetical order). (dealt as to as referred to group of beverages, refeITcd compound beverages. fermented or or compound of fcnnented group section. in this this section. found in will he be found which wjll economical or or medieinaL medicinal, whieh economieaJ and mixtures, and or mixtures, 5. Fermented Fermented and and distilled distilled beverages or S. (dealt with with in in al alpreparations based alcoholic drinks (dcalt based on on alcoholic phabetical order). normal The normal of beverages beverages - The temperature of Quantity and temperarure nature, the the to their their nature, according to varies according beverages varies intake of beverages

t2l 121

BEVERAGES IN IN DIETETICS DIETETICS BEVERAGES

requirements of of the the organism, organism, outside outside temperature temperature and and requirements state of of health. health. Excessive Excessive intake intake of of liquids liquids diminishes diminishes state appetite and and impedes impedes digestion. digestion. In In sorne some cases cases it it is is advisable advisable appetite increase the to increase intake of the intake liquids in of Iiquids in order order to to improve improve eliminaeliminato tion and and cleanse cleanse the the organism. organism. In In others, others, it it is is advisable advisable to to tion reduce the intake of the intake liquids. of liquids. reduce Should beverages beverages be be taken taken with with meals meals or in between or in between Should meals? Man Man alone alone drinks drinks wbile while eating; eating; other other animais animals meals? separate their their solid solid feeding feeding from from absorption absorption ofliqu.ids. of liquids. Halfa Half a separate (scant pin litre (scant pint,2t cups) water water drunk drunk on on an an empty empty stomach stomach litre t, 2* cups) leaves it it in in less less than than half half an an hour. hour. The The water water would would remain remain in in leaves the stomach stomach much much longer longer if if accompanied accompanied by by other other food. food. A A the meal eaten eaten without without drinking drinking is is digested quicker and digested quicker and better. better. It It meal is advisable, advisable, therefore, therefore, in people suffering in diets diets for for people suffering from from is dyspepsia and and enteritis enteritis to to separate separate the the intake intake qf o.f solids solids and and dyspepsia liquids. They They should should drink drink an an hour hour or or so so before before the the meal, meal, so so liquids. as to to ensure ensure that that the the stomach stomach is is empty empty in in time time for for sol solid food. as id food. The result result will will not not be be the the same if the same if is taken the liquid taken after after the the liquid is The meal; the the stomach stomach will will be be full, full. and and the conditions will be the condi be the the meal; tions will same as as when drinking during a meal. With perfectly healthy same wb en drinking during a meal. With perfectly healthy people, however, provided the however, provided the amount amount of of drink drink taken taken is is not not people, so excessive as to impede digestion, the above does not apply. so excessive as to impede digestion, the above does not apply. Too much much meat, meat, highly highly spiced spiced dishes dishes and and the the excessive excessive Too use of of salt, salq considerably considerably increases increases the the sensation sensation of of thirst. thirst. use Diet consisting consisting mainly mainly of of vegetables, vegetables, containing containing little little salt, salt, Diet provoke thirst does not not provoke thirst so much. so much. does Moderately wann warm beverages beverages dilate dilate the the blood blood vessels vessels of of Moderately the stomach, stomach, are are better better absorbed, absorbed, and quench thirst and quench thirst the efficiently. If If too too cold, cold, they they cause cause the the contraction contraction of of the the efficiently. abdominal capillary capillary system, system, and and may lead to to disorders, disorders, at at abdominal may lead times of a serious of a nature: colic, serious nature: precordial anxiety, colic, precordial anxiety, and and even even times (loss of syncopes (Joss ofconsciousness ofblood consciousness from from fall fall of blood pressure). pressure). syncopes These disorders disorders are are more more likely one drinks drinks a a These likely to to occur occur if if one quantity of quickly. To of cold cold liquid To prevent such occurrences, occurrences, Iiquid quickly. prevent such quantity sportsmen are are advised advised to hot beverages after violent sportsmen to drink drink hot beverages after violent exercise. Such accidents occur less exercise. Such accidents occur less frequently frequently with with iced drinks, because can only only be swallowed in sips. drinks, because these these can be swallowed in small small sips. The palate's of beverages The palate's reaction reaction to to various various temperatures temperatures of oeverages varies varies according according to to their their nature. nature. Below Below 6" 6 to to 8.C. 8e. (43. (43 to 47"F.) of being being ice-cold; ice-cold; it it is is 47F.) water water gives gives the the impression impression of pleasantly pleasantly cool cool at at 12"C. 12e. (54"F.), (54F.), it it becomes becomes warm wann and unpleasant 25"C.-(77"F.) unpleasant at at l6'C. 16e. (61'F.), (61F.), and and at at 25C: (77F.) it it is is too hot hot for for most most people. people. Aerated Aerated water water seems seems colder colder than tban ordinary ordinary water water at at 6"C. 6e. (43'F.) (43F.) owing owing to to the the release release of of carbon carbon dioxide, and remains dioxide, and remains cold cold up up to to lO'C. 10 e. (50"F.), (50F.), becoming becoming pleasantly pleasantly cool cool up up to to l7'C. 17e. (62"F.). (62F.). The The temperature temperature of of milk milk at at the the farm farm immediately immediately after after milking milking varies varies between between 33" 33 and and 34'C. 34e. (91" (91 and and 93"F.). 93F.). When heated (131" 55 to to 56'C. 56e. (l31 to to 133.F.) 133F.) it it seems seems very When heated to to 55" hot hot and and causes causes perspiration. perspiration. Wines. Wines. The The best best temperature temperature for for an an average average white wbite wine wine is is about about l0'C. 10 e. (50'F.). (50F.). Some Sorne wines, wines, such such as as Sauternes, Sauternes, can can be be (frappis). chilled chilled (frapps). Sparkling Sparkling wines wines should should only only be be cooled cooled by by ice, ice, without without adding adding salt salt (often (often an an expedient expedient in in a a restaurant restaurant for for clients clients who who are are in in a a hurry). hurry). These These wines wines lose lose a a great great deal deal of of their their quality at a temperature (43"F.). below 6"C. 6e. (43F.). Red Red wines, wines, quality at a temperature below especially especially the tbe great great wines wines of ofBordeaux, Bordeaux, are are served served chambris chambrsbrought brought slowly slowly to to room room temperature temperature (16o (16 to to 18"C., 18e., 61" 61 to to 64"F.). drunk at at a a cooler cooler temperature, temperature, 64F.). Burgundy Burgundy wines wines are are drunk and and light light white white wines wines are are served served cold. cold.
0 0

Generally speaking, speaking, aa man man absorbs absorbsin in twenty-four twenty-four hours hours Generally as many many cubic cubic cm. cm. of water as of water as he he ingests ingests calories. calories. The The need need as for water water is is related related to to the the chemical chemical composition composition of of the the diet. diet. for protein-rich diet A protein-rich requires a diet requires a considerable considerable hydrous hydrous intake. intake. A

FERMENTED BEVERAGES. BEVERAGES. BOISSONS nolssoNs FERMENTES rprurmurErs -- The The FERMENTED manufacture of of fennented fermented drinks drinks demands demands a a series of operaoperaseries of manufacture tions, often often complicated. complicated. Spontaneous Spontaneous fennentation fermentation of tions, of grapes, apples, apples, oranges, pineapples may oranges, pineapples may have produced a have produced a grapes, pleasant drink drink by by chance; chance; but but chance chance does not account account for does not for pleasant the alcoholic alcoholic fennentation fermentation of of cows', cows', mares' mares' and and she-camels' she-camels' the milk, which which does does not not take place of take place its own of its own accord. accord. Still Still milk, more curious, curious, historically historically speaking, speaking, is is the the transfonnation transformation more of cereal cereal crops crops into into fermented fermented liquor. liquor. Small Small tribes tribes in in the the far far of past, having having neither neither fruit fruit nor nor milk milk nor nor cereals cereals at at their their past, disposal, managed produce an managed to to produce an intoxicating intoxicating beverage beverage disposai, from the the tubers tubers of of cassava cassava or potatoes. The or sweet sweet potatoes. The use use of of from fermented liquors liquors appears appears to peculiar to to be be a a need need peculiar mankind. to mankind. fennented

,",n"31,1il!5f lf lll,1i,o,l8,'r-,r, in the seventeenth century (Gurard)

Cabaretier selling drinks

BEVERAGES BEVERAGES IN IN DIETETICS. DIETETICS. sorssoN BOISSON rN EN orertrreuE DITTlQUEBeverages Beverages are are of of supreme supreme importance importance in in dietetics. dietetics. Water, Water, man's natural beverage, is man's natural beverage, is essential essential to to him. him. It It is is possible possible to to go go up up to to forty fort y days, days, and and even even more, more, without witbout eating eating if if one one drinks of water; water; being being deprived deprived of of it it leads leads drinks large large quantities quantities of to to death. death. r22 122

Barley Barley cordial. cordial. BorssoN BOISSON D'oRcE D'ORGE - Put Put 5CI 500 g. g. (18 (18 oz.) oz.) ordinary ordinary barley barley and and 200 200 g. g. (7 (7 oz.) oz.) couch grass grass into into 20 20 litres litres (4] (41 gallons, gallons, 5] 5t gallons) gallons) water. water. Boil. Boil. Add Add 100 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz) oz.) liquorice Iiquorice cut cut into into small small pieces. pieces. Leave Leave to to get get cold, cold, strain, strain, and and bottle. bottle. Barley EAU D'oRGE D'ORGE - Pour Pour boiling boiling water water on on a a handhandBarley water. water. EAU ful fui of of barley barley and and bring bring to to the the boil boil again. again. Pour Pour off off the the water water and 15 to to 20 20 and replace replace with with boiling boiling water, water, this this time time boiling boiling for for 15 minutes. minutes. If If pearl pearl or or hulled hulled barley barley is is used, used, I 1 tablespoon tablespoon per per litre litre (scant (scant quart, quart, generous generous quart) quart) water, water, there there is is no no need need to to boil boil it Cook the the barley barley until until the the grains grains split. split. it in in two two waters. waters. Cook Cider Cider type type tlrink. drink. BorssoN BOISSON FAgoN FAON crDRE CIDRE - Blend Blend ll Il litres litres (2| (21 gallons, gallons, 3 3 gallons) gallons) water, water, I 1 litre litre (If, (li- pints, pints, generous generous quart) quart) double double !eer, ~eer, l0 10 g. g. (* (t oz.) oz.) citric ci tric acid acid and and a a large large glass glass brandy. Decant into into bottles bottles and and tie tie down down the the corks. corks. brandy. Stir Stirwell. weil. Decant This Thisdrink drink will will be be ready ready for for use usein in 5 5to to 6 6days' days' time. time.

BEVERAGES BEVERAGES IN IN DIETETICS DIETETlCS

Clairet - Boil Boil 6* 6t kg. kg. (14+ (l4-!- lb.) lb.) carrots and 125 125 g. g. (4 (4 oz.) oz.) liquorice liquorice roots fOOts in in l0 10 litres litres (9 (9 quarts, quarls, ll 11 quarts) water. waler. Strain, pressing the 10 extract as much much the ingredients ingredients so so as to liquid liquid as as possible. Add g. Q (9 oz.) tartaric acid, 250 g. (9 oz,2{ cups) Add 250 e. ground ginger, 2 2 kg. (41b., lb., 9 cups) brown sugar and 2 litres litres (3* (3! pints, 4| pints) brandy to the liquid. Pour into into a barrel of 100 litres (22 gallons, 28 gallons) capacity. Fill with water, and leave for 8 days. Bottle and capacity. cork, tying tying down down the corks. Economical drink I. I. BotssoN BOISSON fcoNoutQun ECONOMIQUE - To To make EconomicaJ drink 60 60 litres litres (13 gallons, 16| 161- gallons), put put 4 4 litres (3| (3i quarts, 4| 4:1 quarts) quarts) red or white white wine into in to a tun, add add 56 litres (12{ (l2k gallons, gallons, 15| 1st gallons) gallons) water, water, 2 kg. kg. e4 (41 lb., lb., 9 cups) cups) sugar sugar (having ioto the tun), a a small (having dissolved it before putting it into lemon Leave for lemon cut eut into pieces and and tied tied in a muslin bag. Leave storing 5 to ta 6 days, stirring once once a a day, decant into bottles, storing them them upright. Economical ECOllomiCal drink drink II. II. BoIssoN BmSSON EcoNonnQuE CONOMIQUE - Put Put into into a receptacle 20 litres (4j gallons, 5] gallons) water, I 1 litre (lf receptacle 20litres cups) sugar and pints, generous generous quart) wine, I kg.Q*1b.,4+ lb., I 1 lemon lemon cut eut into into slices. Leave Leave to 10 macerate macerate for for 4 days, Bottle and tie down the corks. This drink stirring once a day. Bottle will be ready for use in 4 to 6 days' time. lime. Take a barrel of Elderblossom BOISSON DE DE SIJREAU SUREAU - Take of Elderblossom cordial. BoIssoN gallons, l6f gallons) capacity, enlarge about 60 litres (13 (! 3 gallons,l6t enlarge the bung hole and with water. Put the following and fill fil! the barrel barrel wth cups) refined ingredients into a a muslin muslin bag: 2 ke. (4f,1b., lb., 9 cups) sugar or, ifthat if that is not available, ordinary granulated sugar, sllgar g. (2 oz.) I lemon oz.'1hops, g. (4 oz.) dried elderblossom, 50 g. 100 g. hops, 1 juice squeezed 2l and 2t cut squeezed into the water, and the thejuice water, and eut into pieces and (scant I pint, dl. (seant pin t, generous cup) vinegar. Leave to infuse for 5 rest on on the days, stirring with a a day. day. Leave a stick stick once a Leave to rest sixth day and bottle on on the seventh (decanting into champagre bottles, possible). Tie down the corks. This beverage pagne boUles, if ifpossible). ready for use in 5 days' time. Keep the bottles will be ready boUles upright in the cellar. .Elder and lime cordial. BOISSON TILLEUL BoIssoN DE SUREAU sTJREAU ET TILLEUL .EIder - Mix (6 litres (6 a handful handful each and lime-tree leaves with 7 litres each of eider elder and a (9 OZ., g. (9 cup) oz., generous eup) Add 250 250 g. water. Add quarts, 7| quarts) water. sugar, 2lemons and and 1 glass vinegar. sugar,2 a day. day. Strain, 3 days, stirring once a to maceratc macerate for 3 Leave to for ready for will be be ready and lie tie down down corks. corks. This beverage wiU bottle and days' time. in 5 days' use in and stomachic. Spiced wine, tonie tonic and stomachic. HypocRAs -- Spieed Hippocras. HYPOCRAS red wine wine hip hiphippocras, rcd cider hippocras, There are are beer beer hippocras, hippocras, eider There pocras, ele. pocras, etc. any stone fruit, flavoured wth with any stone fruit, The beverage beverage can can be be flavoured The etc. wormwood, violets, etc. vanilla, wormwood, oranges, vanilla, r'^e.NcftIQLJE -- Leave HYPocRAs A L'ANGELlQUE hippocras. HYPOCRAS Angelica hippocras. AngeLca (* oz.) pinch of nutmeg to to and a a pinch of ground nutmeg fresh angelica angelica and 8 g. (t oz.) fresh 8 (red or (lf pints, generous generous quart) cold wine wine (red or infuse in in 1 I litre litre (1:1taste. and a brandy to to laste. little brandy Add sugar a liule 2 days. for 2 days. Add sugar and white) for white) Filter. Pilter. g. 25 g. Leave 25 HypocRAs AU lu GENVRE csNIivRE -- Leave Juniper hippocras. HYPOCRAS Juniper juniper (lf pints, (l oz.) I litre infuse in in 1 litre (1 to infuse berries to oz.) crushed jun (\ iper berries i pints, g. (2 generous quart) quart) cold alcohol, wine, mixed mixed with with 50 50 g. oz.) alcohol, cold wine. generous Q oz.) (3 OZ., g. (3 6 oz., 6 75 g. little vanilla vanilla and and 75 for 24 24 hours. hours. Add Add a a liule for filter. tablespoons) fine fine sugar, and filter. sugar, and re FRAMBOISE rnnunolsE -- Strain Strain HYPocRAs A LA w .. " ... t,,,,..."V hippocras. HYPOCRAS Raspberry gathered raspberries a raspberries over over a freshly gathered cups) freshly 500 g. (18 oz., 3f cups) (If, pints, quart) red red wine, generous quart) wine, pour in pints, geoerous in 1 I litre (11 bowl, pour bowl, (2 oz.) and filter. filter. g. (2 alcohol, and add 50 50 g. oz.) wine wine alcohol, with sugar, sweeten with sugar, add sweeten Infuse 2 2 Aux PlCES fPIcEs -- Infuse HypocRAs AUX Hippocras with with spices. spices. HYPOCRAS Hippocras (* oz., g. 0: a 15 g. tablespoons) nutmeg, a cinnamon, 15 o2.,2 teaspoons cinnamon, teaspl:>ollS 2 lablespoons) (all ground g. ground inta powder) in in 50 g. into powder) pinch of mace and and 3 cloves (ail of mace 3 c10ves (l| piots, pints, (2 oz.) I litre litre (Ii for 2 2 days. Add 1 Leave for days. Add alcohol. Leave oz.) alcohol. quart) white amber essence essence generous quart) red wine, wine, 3 3 drops drops amber white or or red generous t23 123
and and 75 75 g. g. (3 (3 o2.,6 oz., 6 tablespoons) tablespoons) fine fine sugar, sugar, and and stir stir well. well. Leave Leave to ta stand stand for for 24 24 hours, hours, then then filter. tilter. Honey Honcy water. water. slu EAU I\,IIEIIEE MlELLE - Dissolve Dis,<;olve some sorne pure pure honey honey in in hot hot water, water, add add a little liule nrm mm or or brandy brandy and and a a dash dash of of vinegar. vinegar. It Ii is ii> a a refreshing refreshing drink drink but but does does not not keep. Hop Hop drink. drink. BoIssoN BorSSON AU AU HouBLoN HOUBLON - Put into into a a 20-litre 20-litre ($-gallon,5fgallon) cups) sugar, crock I (4}-gaUon, 1 ke. (2i lb., sugar, 2 2 Qtlb., handfuls handfuls hop flowers, 8 8 to to l0 orange orange leaves Icaves and a a glass vinegar. vinegar. Fill with wiJ water. water. Leave Leave to to macerate rnacerate for for 2 2 days,

41 +

stirring a cloth, c1oth, decant deeant into into stirrng frequently. frequently. Strain Strain through through a

bottles, boules, and cork, tying tying down down the corks. Hydromel Hydromel (Codex (Codex recipe) recipe) - Dilute Dilute 100'9. 1OOg. G (4 oz., oz.,! cup) pure pure ] cup) white 1 litre (If, (1 t pints, generous generous quart) quart) warm warm water, water, white honey honey in 1 and strain. strain. Vinous part honey and three three Vinous hydromel hydromel is made from one part parts water. wa ter. Hygienic and drink. BoIssoN BOISSON nvcdNtQus HYGIN1QUE sr ET and refreshirE drink. (11 gallons, Mix 50 litres n.arnlicrrlssANrE 1itres (II gallons, 14 14 gallons) litre water, litre (lj} pints, pints, generous generous quart) quart) brandy, brandy, (scant pint,2lcups) coffee 1 kg. (2*1b.,4| (2t lb., 4i cups) cups) brown coffee and and I sugar together. Stir well. weIL Kefr. rfrn - This beverage, made from fermented cows' cows' The Caucasus. The milk, ii> used in in countries bordering bordefing on on the the Caucasus. rnilk, is dried, preserved, fermented kefir kefu is dried, preserved, and and transported transportcd in in the the form of grains called form of ca lied pousse touiours. They They multiply multlply inindefinitely by fermentation, so so that a a minute minute quantity quantity is is enough to produce any amount of of kefir. ketir. (scant quart, generous quart, generous I litre g. (ll Allow 40 a0 g. (11 oz.) kefir to t.o 1 litre (seant dilute with a stone stone jug, quart) Put the the kefir kefir into into a jug, dilute with quart) water. water. Put for 24 24 hours. Stir and leave stir, and slightly, stir, water, sweeten slightly, hours. Stir waler, sweeten leave for in 6 6 or or Ready for and bottle. 4 days, days, and bOille. Ready for use use in again, leave leave for 4 after bottling. 7 days' time arter Lemonade See LEMONADE. Lemonade - See lemonade Ordinary lemonade GAZEUSE lemonade. LIMONADE Lnvrone,DE GAZEUSE Fizzy lemollade. - Ordinary apparatus. means ofaerating of aerating apparatus. dioxide by means aerated with carbon dioxide aeraled juice. LfMONADE DE AtI SUC suc DE LMoNADE AU Lemonade with pomegranate juice. Lemonade juice pomegranates from cRENADE GRENADE Extract the 6 ripe red red nA,n-."rr,.o,,., or by rubbing rubbing through pressing in a a fruit squeezer or either by pressing juice of and the the and 2 oranges, oranges, and 2 lemons and of 2 a sieve. Add the juice sieve. Add a water as much much water Add twice twice as zest of of 1 I lemon lemon and and 1 I orange. orange. Add zest juice, sugar fine sieve sieve a fine through a to taste, taste, strain strain through as Ihere there is is juice, sugar to as lemonade. and chili chill the lemonade. and DE RGLISSE A L'ORANGEt'on.a.Ncn EAU DE nfcr,tssn Liquorice and orange water. EAU roots, liquorice roots, well-washed liquorice 4 oz.) oz.) well-washed Put 80 to 100 g. (3+ to to 4 to 100 (* oz.) orange g. G orange zest. pan. Add zest. l0 g. in a a pan. Add 10 cut into small pieces, in eut quarts) water, for 4} quarts) water, boil boil for litres (3{ quarts, 41 Cover wiJ with 4 litres Coyer a cIo cloth. minutes, and and strain through a 5 minutes, th. proceed Using oatmeal, proceed EAU DE DE GRUAU cRUAU -- Using water. EAU Oatmeal water. water. recipe for for Barley Barley water. in the the recipe as described in as ou oRANGETTE ou BoIssoN ORANGETTE Orangette Fr6nette cordial. cordial. BOlSSON or Frnette Orange rte or 10 g. (2 of JO oz.) ash ash tree tree leaves, peel of rnfNsrrE - Take Take 50 50 g. FRNEITE Q oz.) (2 oz.) g. (2 oz.) (G lb., oranges, 3 kg. (6-i lb., 13 13 cups) cups) granulated sugar, 50 g. oranges, (l oz.) yeast, bumt sugar. g. (1 burnt sugar. citric acid, 25 g. oz.) brewer's yeast, ci tric acid, peel for for 25 25 or or 30 30 with the orange peel leaves with Boil the the orange the ash ash tree leaves Boil (3| pints, pints) water. a pints, 4t water. Strain Strain through through a 4] pints) 2litres minutes in in 2 minutes litres (31 cloth. clotho ((* lb., granulated sugar in the the sugar in 13 cups) cups) granulated lb., 13 Dissolve 3 3 kg. kg. (61Dissolve into a a barrel g. (2 acid. Put Put into barrel citric acid. Add 50 oz.) citric 50 g. above liquid. Add above Q oz.) (11 gallons, 14 gallons) eapacity. capacity. 14 gallons) of about about 50 50litres of litres (II mix with 2 tabletablewith 2 water, m1x in cold cold waler, Dilute 25 25 g. (1 Dilute 0 oz.) yeast in (3 tablespoons) buml and add add to to the the barrel. barrel. burnt sugar and spoons (3 spoons and cork. cork. days, bottle bottle and ferment for 8 8 days, to ferment Fill with with waler, water, leave to Fill pea-pods. BOISSON DE COSSES cossEs DE DE BoIssoN DE out of of pea-pods. Beverage made made out Beverage pots-vERTs - Put green peas peas into and add add into a a stockpot pods of stockpot and of green POIS-VERTS - Put pods get cold. cold. leave to to get and leave plenty of for 3 3 hours, hours, and Boil for of water. water. Boil plenty (9 quarts, quarts) liquid. quarts, li liquid. ll quarts) l0litres to 10 Add a a handful handful of sage to litres (9 Add Draw off and boUle. bottle. off and a barrel. barrel. Draw ferment in a kave to to rerment Leave Tonic DE RHUBARBE RHUBARBE -- Tonie EAU DORE DoRfiE DE Golden rbubarb rhubarb cordial. cordial. EAU Golden

BEZIERS BZIERS
and apritif ap6ritif obtained obtained by by macerating piece of macerating a a piece of rhubarb rhubarb in in aa and jug ofwater. of water. Rice warer. water. EAU EAU DE DE RIZ nz -- Proceed Proceed as as descnbed described in in the the recipe recipe for Barley water. water. Three floweis cordial. cordial. BOISSON BorssoN DES DEs TROIS rRors FLEURS FLBuRs -- Pu Put 50 g. Three t 50 (2oz.) oz.) hop hop flowers, flowers, 50 50 g. (2 oz.) violet violet flowers flowers and and 35 35 g. (2 oz.) eider elder blossom blossom into into 20litres (4| gallons, 5| gallons) boiting oz.) water. Boil Boil for for 5 5 mihutes minutes and and strain through a fine cloth. water. Pour ioto into a a barrel barrel with with 4| kg. (10 lb., 20 cups) brown Pour (scant piot. sugar. Add Add ~ litre (seant pint, 2l cups) vinegar and 12 g. sugar. + litre (* oz.) yeast, broken oz.) brewer's brewer's yeast, pieces. Mix broken up up into pieces. Mix weil. well. Fil! (t Fill the barrel barrel with $"ith 80 gallons, 22 S0litres 22 gallons) water, stir the litres (17| gallons, vigorously, bung bung the the barrel, and and leave leave to to ferment. vigorously, Wipflavorned water. water. EAU EAU VINEUSE vrNEUsE Beverage for Wine-D8I1/oured for convalescents, made made by by addiog adding a quantity of a small small quantiry convalescents, of Ho,rdl~aUIJ( Bordeaux or Burgundy Burgundy wine wine to to water water or water. A or soda soda water. A liule little sugar or sugar and and lemon essence essenc is is sometimes ss6stimes added. added. lemon Blackcurant wine. wine. VIN vnr DE DE CASSIS cAssxs Press ripe ripe blackcurrants blackcurrants Blackcurrant - Press in a a tub, tub, and and leave leave for for 24 24 hours. hours. in Rub through a a sieve sieve or a coarse or a coarse cloth cloth and and separate Rub separate the the juice. Cover Cover the remaining remaining marc marc with with water, water, equalling juce. equalling in in volume the amount amount of ofjuice extracted, and and leave leave ta volume juice extracted, to macerate for 12 12 hours. hours. Press Press through through the the sieve sieve aga again. Mix the for in. Mix the two two juices, and g. Q oz., and add add 50 50 g. oz., t per litre (scant cup) sugar sugar per litre (seant juices, * cup) quart, generous quart) quart) liquid. quart, Pour the liquid into a the liq a barrel barrel or or sorne some other other receptac1e receptacle Pour uid into and leave leave to ferment. When to fennent. When fermentation fermentation begins to and to be established, bung the barrel, barrel, leaving an an opening the sile established, size of of a vent-peg. vent-peg. ACter After a a few few days, remove remove bung, bung to allow carbon a dioxide to escape. Repeat Repeat this operation from from time time ta dioxide to time until there is no longer any risk of too great an expansion of untll gas, then bung the barrel. Draw off offat gas, at the end of six months. Cherry wine. VJ1l,1 vnr DE cERrsEr described in the OF. CERISES - Proceed as deseribed recipe for BJackcurrant Blackcarrant wine. recipe Iig wine ffguette. vrN Frcr.iEs (rrcunrrn) Fig wme or Of figuerte. VIN DE FIGUES ("""'-llt' ..... ...,"\ - Put I kg. juniper berries into a small barrel. (2* lb.) and l0 (2-!lb.) dried figs and 10 juniper Add quarts) water Add l0 10 litres litres (9 (9 quarts, IIl quarts) water and and leave leave to macerate macerate for 6 to 8 days. Strain the tbe liquid, bottle, boule, and leave for for 4 4 or 5 days before using. using. crNcEnBRE - Put 9 Ginger wine. wine. vN VIN DE DE! G1NGEMBRE 9 kg. kg. (20 (20 lb., lb .. 40 cups) sugar into eups) into 40 40 litres litres (8f (8t gallons, gallons, 1l Il gallons) gallons) boiling boiJing water. When the sugar sugar dissolves, dissolves, add 300 300 g. (ll (Il oz.,2f oz., 2i cups) cups) pounded gtnger ginger roots. mots. Boil for a quarter of an an hour, and remove from from heat. heat. When the liquid is nearly nearly cold, add 250 g. (9 oz.) brewer's yeast. yeast. Leave Leave to ferment in a barrel. Draw Oraw offafter off after fennentafermentation, and when the wine is is quite clear, c1ear, decant into bottles. boUles. Juniper wine. vnl VJ1I,1 or DE cnxGvns GENIVRE - Mix 5 kg. (II lb.) honey (or (or brown brown sugar) sugar) with with 2 2 kg. kg. ( (~ lb.) brewer's brewer's yeast yeast and and 50 kg. kg. l lb.) (l l0 lb.) (110 lb.) crushed crushed juniper berries. bernes. Add Add 100 litres litres (22 gallons, 28 gallons) hot water water and and a little liulc crushed coriander. Pour Pour this mixture into inta a a cask eask and and stir stir vigorously vigorously for for 5 5 minutes. minutes. Cover with boards, boards, sealing sealing the the cask eask hermetically hermetically if if possible. possible. Leave ta ferment ferment in a place with with a temperature of of 25"C. 25C. Leave to (77'F.). When Wb en fermentation is is complete complete ind the the wine wine has has become clear, draw draw off off into mto a a keg keg and and put put in in a a place place with with a a temperature temperature not not exceeding exceeding 15"C. 15~C. (59'F.). (59P.). At At the the end end of of one one month, mon th, draw draw off off again again and and keep keep in in a a cellar cellar in a a full, full, wellwellbunged bunged keg. !ceg. After After one one year, year, decant decal1t into into bottles. boUles.
liquid liquid drawn drawn off. This is is aa biller, off. This bitter, aromatic, aromatic, stimulating stimulating

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sugar and + dl. dl. (3 tablespoons, tablespoons, seant scant t cup) wine vinegar vinegar * cup) into a small barrel. Add Add water. water. Leave Leave to macerate for to macerate for 8 days, 8 days, then The wine wine wiU then bottle. bottle. The will he for use ready for be ready use 8 after 8 days days after bouling in the bottling in the wintcr, winter, and and after after 4 4 days in the days in the summer. summer.
BZIERS proBEZIERS -- Town Town of of the the Hrault Hrault dpartement ddpartement which which produces great deal deal of duces a a great rd table of red table wines. wines. The The culinary culinary specialities specialities of the regron are are the of the the same same as as those those found found in in aU all towns towns of of LangllJedloc. Languedoc. They They include include escargots eseargots it la h lodvose; loddvoise; cabassols; cabassols; manouls; manouls; small small Bziers pdtCs des B6ziers pdtis called PCzenas; called pts des Pzenas; flaunes ar flauzonnes de Lodive; fouaces aux fritlons; and flaunes or flmtzottnes de fouaces aux frittons; and oreilletes. oreilletes. BEZIEU BEZIEU SOEP SOEP or or REDCURRANT REDCURRANT SOUP SOLTP @elgian cookery). cookery). SOUPE soupE AUX Aur( GROSEU.LES water; Cook vermicelli vermicelli in water; cRosExr.rrs -- Cook when when ready, add potato flour add salt salt and and patata little cold cold diluted in in a a liule flour diluted water. Add redcurrantjui water. redcurrant juice and and sugar. sugar. BIARROTTE - Gamish BHRROTIE ( LA)Garni$ for for small cuts ofmeat of meat comcomG LA) posed posed of galettes; the of pes cCpes and and ga/etles; prepared as latter, prepared the latter, as for for potatoes (see (see POT Duchesse A TOES), form Duchesse pOlaLOes POTATOES), form the the base. base. BICARBONATE BICARBONATE OF OF SODA. SODA. BICARBONATE BTcARBoNATE DE oe SOUDE souos - In In medicine, tbis this is is used used as as ao an alkali and and antacid. In In cooking, it is added addd to to sorten soften the water used used for certain vegetables. It is is sometimes sometimes added added to prepared to the the water water for for the the carrots carrots prepared d la la Vichy. BICHIQUES Bichique (See CURRY, Bichique BICHIQLJDS Very small small fish. fish. (Sec - Very curry.)

Raisin wLne. vn.t DE DE RAISINS wine. VIN I litre RArsrNs SECS Fut 1 litre (li pints, sEcs - Put generous quart) raisins, 1, cups) GlU'" """_U g. (II oz., raisins, 300 granulated 300 g. oz.,l] cups) )';,

beverage.

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BIGARADE BIGARADE SAUCE SAUCE. - See SAUCE.

BIGARREAU - Variety BIGARREAU Variety of of hard-fleshed hard-fleshed cherry, cherry, rcd red and

white. (See CHERRY.)

Nineteenth century restaurateur. After ACter BIGNON (Louis) - Nineteenth a good training and aod much experience a experienoe in well-known Paris restaurants, he he took took over'the over the managernent management of Caf Riche, CafC Riche,

which saon sole h la Riche and woodcock it soon became famous; sole Riche were among among many noted specialities. The restaurant la Riclrc was frequented by most of the men of letters leHcrs of the period. a remarkably intelligent man man who who took took an Bignon was a inteiest nterest in in viniculture viniculture and and agriculture. agriculture. He He received received the awards at world exhibitions exhibitions of of agricultural produce, highest awards and became the first French restaurateur restaurateur to be awarded the Legion Legion of of Honour, Honour, in 1867. 1867.
BIGOS @olish (Polisb cookery) - Wash a 4 kg. (9 lb.) sauerkraut sauerkraul in BIGOS several waters before before boiling it in water. water. Drain, Drain, and add 2 2 several pounded pounded onions on ions and and 4 peeled and and diced diced cookirtg apples. apples. Mix well. weIL Fut Put in in a a casserole in layers layers with with cooked meats meats Mix venison, chicken, chicken, mutton, mutton, duck, ham, harn, sausages or such as venison, pickled pckled pork. Add Add butter butter to to each each layer, layer, pour pour in in a little liule stock, and cook in in a a slow oven oven for for 2 2 hours. hours. and About 25 25 minutes minutes before before servin!, serving, add add a butter-and-flour butter-and-flour About roux (q.v.'1 made made with with a a little liUle of the the liquor liquor in which which the the roux SGLrerACrw was was cooked, cooked, and and serve serve in in this this sauce. sauce. sauerkraut

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BIJAI\E BIJANE - Cold Cold soup soup popular popular in in the the Anjou Anjou reglon region made made by by crumbling bread bread into into sweetend sweetened red red wine. wine. crumbling
Bll,BERRY. MvRTTLLE MYRTILLE - Small Small plant plant common in in upland upland BILBERRY. woods (naturalised (naturalised in in U.S.A.). U.S.A.). The tart taft purple purple berries berries can can woods jam, syrups be stewed, stewed, and and they tbey are are also also used used in injam, syrups and and liqueurs. liqueurs. be Bll.E BILE the liver. livcr. It Tt is is called 'gall' in cookery cookery and and in in industry. industry. the BIRD. oBBAU OISEAU - Many Many wild wild and and domestic domestic birds birds are are edible. edible. BIRD.
124 124

Put Put 50 litres (l (1 I gallons, gallons, 14 14 gallons) gallons) juniper juniper berries bernes into mto 100 litres wormlitres (22 (22 gallons, gallons, 28 28 gallons) gallons) water, water, add add 2 2 handfuls handfuls of ofwormwood wood and and leave leave to to ferment ferment in in a a cool cool plaoe place for for one one month. month. Filter Pilter and and bottle. botlle. The The supply supply of of this this beverage beverage may may be he prolonged prolonged by by leaving leaving the the berries berries in in the the receptacle receptacle and and adding adding water wal.er to 10 replae replace the the

Juiper*ine WIDe (genewette).

vrN VIN DE DE cENdvRE GENIVRE (crr*rvnrrre)

-_.

Thiek, greenish-yellow, bitter bitter fluid fluid secretd secreted by by Thick,

BISCUIT BISCUIT

(Nrcolas) Biscuits (Nico/as) Biscuits

various small covers various the tenn term covers French cookery cookery the In ln classic classic French roasted or are generally roasted which are type, which birds of the the sparrow sparrow type, birds of cooked on skewers like larks.

(U.S. Lotus). LoTIER Lotus). LOTIER TREFOIL (V.S. BIRD'S-FOOT BIRD'S-FOOT TREFOa grows abundantly in meadows, abundantly in plant which which grows Leguminous Leguminous plant leaves, The leaves, crops. The cereal crops. in fields of cereal and in highways, and along the highways, when pleasant fragrance, especially when fragrance, especially a pleasant flowers have have a stems and flowers stems and marinades. flavour marinades. to Bavour dried used to and can dried, and can be be used plant are are of this this plant flowers of leaves and and Bowers the leaves In In 'sorne districts the some districts rabbits hutch rabbits to hutch rabbit to wild rabbit of wild flavour of used the Bavour impart the used to to irnpart of bird'sbird'sa handful handful of with a is stuffed rabbit is stuffed with when The rabbit when cooked. cooked. The foot after being drawn. foot trefoil being drawn. trefoil after
BISCOTTE RUSK. See RUSK. BISCOTTE -- See

in and, in of biscuit, biscuit, and, many kinds kinds of to many BISCUIT applied to BISCUIT -- Tenn Tenn applied cut to to mixture, cut ice cream cream mixture, made of of ice French, an iced iced sweet, to an sweet, made French, to (See ICE NeapoliAND ICES, ICES, NeapoliICE CREA CREAMS like biscuits look like biscuits (See MS AND look tan tan ice ice cream). cream\. made to be be made used to DE GUERRE GUERRE-These Army - These used Blsculrs DE biscuits. BISCUITS Army biscuits. part water), water), (6 parts I part parts flour to 1 flour to paste (6 of a fairly fairly substantial substantial paste of a completely offuntil cooled off and cooled baked until completely 20 to 25 minutes, minutes, and baked for for 20 to 25 paste, an? and to the the paste, was added added to leaven dry. aven was little le a little dry. Sometimes Sometimes a it as It taste, as some taste, grve the dough sorne the dough to give invariably invariably sorne someseasoning seasoning to were and were to chew, chew, and difficult to were difficult had The biscuits biscuits were no salt in it. it. The had no salt in liquid enough liquid not absorb absorb enough good in did not as they they did not not much in soups, soups,as much good when when soaked. soaked. food Army food of the the Army work of the work result of of the After as aa result 1894, as After 1894, bread, army bread, by army replaced by was replaced chemist, biscuit was Balland, biscuit chemist, BaBand, popular not popular stillnot thougb still absorbant, though porous and which and absorbant, wasporous which was wi th soldiers. with soldiers.

(U.S. cookies). Blsculrs DE DE cookies). BISCUITS BISCUITS (U.S. SWEET SWEET BISCUITS pArnsnnrrPTISSERIE t25 125

A L'ABRICOT t-'lBnteor -(petits fours). Blsculrs fours). BISCUITS biscuits (petits Apricot biscuits Apricot yolks in a in a 16 egg egg yolks and 16 (18 oz., fine sugar sugar and g. (18 2| cups) fine Cream 500 500 g. oz., 2tcups) Cream Whisk flour. Whisk (l lb. sieved Bour. 5l cups) cups) sieved g. (1 lb. 6 6 oz., oz., 51 Add 625 6ZS g. bowl. Add bowl. into the the fold carefully carefully into and fold froth, and a stiff into a stiff froth, whites into egg whites the egg the paste. paste. . . . the with the tins wlth. baking tms flour-sprinkled bakmg greased and and Bour-sprinkled Half-fill greased Half-fill little a httle Add a forcing-bag. Add a forcing-bag. piped through through a mixture, piped biscuit mixture, biscuit sifting jam, and mixture, sifting remaining mixture, with the the remaining and cover cover with apricot jam, apricot 20 for 20 oven for a moderate moderate oven in a Bake in top. Bake the top. over the sugar over fine sugar fine tins. in airtight airtight tins. minutes. When When cool, cool, store store in minutes. (cookies). BISCUITS soumlfs BIscuITs SOUFFLS biscuits (cookies). soufl6 biscuits Chocolate souffl Chocolate and sugar and (18 oz., fine sugar g. (18 2| cups) cups) fine oz., 2* Whisk 500 500 g. AU CHOCOLAT cHocor,Ar -- Whisk AU add is finn, firm, add mixture is the mixture When the low heat. heat. When whites over over low l0 egg egg whites 10 has been been which has chocolate which (lL oz., g- (II softened chocolate oz,l1 squares) softened 300 g. 300 II squares) whites. with 2 2 egg egg whites. blended with blended sheet baking s?eet a buttered buttered ba.king onto a forcing-bag onto a forcing-bag Pipe through through a Pipe into mixture Into the mIxture spoon the flour, or or spoon with flour, dusted with has been been dusted which has which (180'C., oven (180C., moderate oven in aa moderate paper cases. Bake in cases. Bake small paper smaIJ 4). Gas Mark Mark 4). 350oF., Gas 350F., Mix together together GENEvoIs -- Mix (cookies). BISCUITS BIscuIN GENEVOIS biscrrits (cookies). Genoo biscuits Genoa yolks, 1 egg, I w~ole whole.egg, 3 egg egg yolks, (4 OZ., g. (4 fine sugar, sugar, 3 cr.p) fine 125g. oz., t* cup) 125 with aa pinch of Stir wlth of salt. salt. Stlr and aa pinch grated lemon rind and lemon rind little grated aa little (2oz.,} melted g. (2 cup) melted oz., I cup) 50 g. Add 50 2 minutes. minutes. Add for 2 wooden spoon for wood en spoon g. ground almonds, 125g. almonds, 125 (l* g. (1 tablespoons) ground o2.,6 35 g. butter, 35 i OZ., 6 tablespoons) butter, whites fold in in33egg eggwhites mix. Lastly Lastly fold (4 OZ., and mix. flour,and cup) sieved sieved Bour, oz.,l (4 1 cup) froth. toaastiff stifffroth. whisked to whisked which have moulds whichhave into finger-shaped finger-shaped rnoulds mixture into the mixture Pour the Pour and sugarand offine mixture of fine sugar withaamixture and dusted dustedwith buttered and been buttered been Dry the the oven. Dry (cornstarch). Bake inaavery veryslow slowoven. Bake in cornflour (comstarch). comflour inairtight airtight tins. tins. andstore store in sieveand biscuits on onaasieve biscuits Mix AUGINGEMBRE (cookies). BISCUITS GINGEMBRE - - Mix BIscuITs AU biscuits(cookies). Ginger biscuits Ginger ground teaspoonsgroun~ sugar, 2 teaspoons (4OZ., fine sugar,2 g. (4 125g. oz., tI cup) fine 125 "rrp) until spoonuntii wooden spoon with liawooden yolks, stirring with ginger and eggyolks, and44egg ginger stirring

BISHOP

BISHOP

quite smooth. Add 50 g. e oz., { cup) rice flour and 25 s.. quite smooth. Add 50 g. (2 OZ., t cup) rice flour and 25 g. (l o2.,3 tablespoons) potato flour airdstir stirweil. well.Fold Foldin in? (1 OZ., 3 tablespoons) potato flour and 4 egg whites whisked to a stifffroth. eggPipe whites whisked to a stiff froth. the mixture onto greased paper through a forcing_ Pipe the mixture onto greased paper through a forcingbag, shaping it into small sticks. Splintcte with sugar, an? bag, shaping it into small sticks. Sprinkle with sugar, and baking sheet. Bake in the oven at lg0"C.I35b"F., n]ace 9nal baking sheet. place on Bake in the oyen at 180C. (350F., Gas Mark 4) for 8 to l0 minutes. Dry on a rack, and store in Gas Mark 4) for 8 to 10 minutes. Dry on a rack, and store in an airtight tin. an airtight tin. Lemon biscuits (cookies). Brscr.rrrs AU crrRoN Cream LemoD biscuits (cookies). BISCU1TS AU CITRON - - Cream g. (2 oz., 50 cup) fine sugar with 2 egg yolks until the +cup) 50 g. (2 OZ., fine sugar with 2 egg yolks until mixture is firm. Add grated rind of I lemon, 25 g. (l the oz., of 1 lemon, 25 g. (1 OZ., mixture is firm. Add grated rind cup) sifted flour, lS e. G oz., 4 teaspoons) potatJ flour, i t* cup) sifted flour, 15 g. (t OZ., 4 teaspoons) potato flour, 1 teaspoon ground almonds, and 2 egg whites whisked to a teaspoon ground almonds, and 2 egg whites whisked to a stiff froth. stiff froth. piry through a forcing-bag into biscuits on on wafer wafer paper. paper. _ Pipe through a forcing-bag into biscuits with powdered sugar, and bake at 160.C. lZiS;f ., fnrinkle with Sprinkle powdered sugar, and bake at 160C. (325F., Gas Mark 3). Dry and store the biscuits as in preceding Gas Mark 3). Dry and store the biscuits as in preceding recrpes. recipes. Italian biscuits. Brscurrs A r'nq.rrrNr.tr - Cream 500 g. ltalian biscuits. BISCUITS L'IT ALlENNE - Cream 500 g. (18 oz., 2f cups) fine sugar with l0 egg yolks until smoott. O? OZ., 2,} cups) fine sugar with 10 egg yolks until smooth. Whisk the egg whites to a stiff froth and fold into the Whisk the egg whites to a stiff froth and fold into the mixture. Adg 190 g.-(4 o2.,3 cup) potato flour and 100 g. mixture. Add 100 g. (4 OZ., ! cup) potato flour and 100 g. (4 oz.,l cup) sifted flour. Mix well. (4 OZ., 1 cup) sifted flour. Mix weil. Butter biscuit baking tins, using very hot melted butter, Butter biscuit baking tins, using very hot melted butter, sprinkle the entire surface with icing sugar, and fill the tini sprinkle entire surface with icing sugar, and fill the tins with the the biscuit mixture. Sprinkle with more icing sugar and more icing sugar and with the biscuit mixture. Sprinkle with bake in a hot oven. bake in a hot oyen. Turn out the biscuits, ice with Curagao-flavoured icing, Turn out the biscuits, ice withCurao-flavoured icing, and decorate the tops with candied orange peel. and decorate the tops with candied orange peel. Small unleavened biscuits. pETrTs pArNS AzyME - Mix SmaU unJeavened biscuits. PETITS PAINS AZYME - Mix 500 g. oz., 4| cups) sieved flour and 500 500 g. (18 o2.,2f, 500 g. _(18 (18 OZ., 4!- cups) sieved flour and g. (18 OZ., 2,} cups) fine sugar. Spread on the table, make a well in the cups) fine sugar. Spread on the table, make a well in the ggltre, put in a pinch of salt dissolved in water and g eggs. centre, in a pinch of salt dissolved in water and 8 eggs. My to put a firm dough, adding a little of necessary. Mix to a firm dough, adding a httle water water of necessary. Leave the dough in a cool place. Roll out and cul into Leave the dough in a cool place. Roll and cut into circles with a pastry-cutter. place on a out lightly buttered circles with a pastry-cutter. Place on a lightly buttered sheet, prick the biscuits baking sheet, prick the biscuits all ail over, over, and and bake bake in in a a slow slow

Bison Bison

The American American is is different different from from the the European European bison, bison, The which is is found found in in sorne parts of some parts of Russia. Russia. which All methods methods of preparation indicated of preparation indicated for for beef beef are are Ali applicable to to bison, bison, but but only only after after marinating marinating the the meat meat for for applicable several hours. hours. several
BISQUE Name of preparation in of a a preparation in the form of a the form pur6e, a pure, - Name BISQUE more particularly particularly a pur6e of a pure of crayfish, crayfish, or or other other shellfish, shellfish, more as a served as a thick thick soup. soup. served Bisque soups soups in in the eighteenth century century were were made Bisque the eighteenth made of poultry and and game game without without any any shellfish, shellfish, and and were were not poultry pur6es, a presentation of boiled poultry pures, but but a presentation of poultry or game, sometimes with a a garnish of cocks' combs and kidneys. times served served with garnish of In of Dons de In 1758, 1758, in in the the last last edition edition of de Comus, there is a crayfish, which really recipe for for a a quail quail soup soup with with crayfish, really was was a fcipe bisque soup, soup, made made of of quails, quails, topped topped with with crayfish crayfish pur6e. pure. li.sque Bisque, Bisque, therefore, therefore, probably probably meant meant a a soup, with with some sorne kind of of meat meat and and breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. What What could could have have given given the the crayfish pur6e pure the name name of bisque bisque soup soup was was the the .addition addition of of crayfish crayfish meat to to various various soups, soups, which which were were then th en called called bisques. bisques. Bisques, Bisques, whether whether made made of of shellfish, shellfish, poultry poultry or or game, game, are are considered considered high high style style preparations, preparations, and and have have always always been been excessively excessively spiced. spiced. For For Crab Crab bisque, bisque, Crayfish Crayfish bisque, bisque, Lobster Lobster bisque bisque and Spiny Spiny lobster lobster bisque, bisque, see see SOUp. SOUP.

3:5iloyen.

BISHOP (Mulled wine). BrscHoF - Hot beverage popular in BISHOP (MuHed wine). BISCHOF - Hot beverage popular in northern European countries. northern European countries. The bischof (the word can also be spelt bishop in this The bischof (the word can also be spelt bishop in this connection) is heated wine spiced with orange and lemon connection) is heated wine spiced with orange and lemon peel, cinnamon, cloves, and peel, cinnamon, cloyes, and sometimes sometimes star star anise. anise. It It is is
served mostly at evening parties. 19{ lishop. BrscHoF cr.lc6 - Pour a bottle of Champagne Iced bisbop. ,BISCHOF GLAC - Pour a bottle of Champagne and 5 dl. (scant pint,2f, cups) lime-blossom tea into abowl. and 5 dl. (scant pint, 2t cups) lime-blossom tea into a bowl, add an orange and half a lemon cut into thin slices, and a add an orange and half a lemon cut into thin slices, and a sufficient quantity of heavy (32') sugar syrup to bring the sufficient quantity of heavy (32) sugar syrup to bring the mixture to a light syrup consistency (18.). Leave in a cool mixture to a light syrup consistency (18). Leave in a cool place for I hour. Strain through a fine strainer. place for 1 hour. Strain through a fine strainer. Ice_as for a granitd. Add 4 small glasses fine Champagne Ice as for a granit. Add 4 sm ail glasses fine Champagne brandy and serve in punch glasses. brandy and serve in punch glasses. Rhine wine bishop. BrscHoF AU vrN DU RHrN - Melt 250 g. ,^ wine bis hop. BISCHOF AU VIN DU RHIN - Melt 250 g. (9 Rhine oz., generous cup) sugar and mix with grated rind of (9 OZ., generous cup) sugar and mix with grated rind of I orange and I lemon, 2 cloves and a small stick of cinnamon 1 orange and 1 lem on, 2 cloyes and a small stick of cinnamon dissolved in 3 dl. (| pint, l{ cups) water. Cook for 5 minutes. dissolved in 3 dl. (t pint, It cups) water. Cook for 5 minutes. Add I bottle of Rhine wine. Heat until a light white foam Add 1 bottle of Rhine wine. Heat until a light white foam is formed on the surface. Sieve through a fine strainer. Serve is fonned on the surface. Sieve through a fine strainer. Serve in a jug or in a large silver punch bowl. in a jug or in a large silver punch bowl. Bishop can also be prepared with Champagne or any other Bishop can also be prepared with Champagne or any other wine. To make it more stimulating, a little Madeira, sherry or wine. To make it more stimulating, a little Madeira, sherry or Marsala is sometimes added. Marsala is sometimes added. BISON - Genus of wild cattle, allied to the ox and yak. It BISON - Genus of wild cattle, allied to the ox and yak. It differs from the ox by its shorter, wider skull, the way in differs from the ox by its shorter, wider skull, the way in which the line of the back falls which the line of the back falls away away from from the the rounded rounded humped shoulders, by the thick woolly coat covering head 1 humped shoulders, by the thick woolly coat covering head and forequarters, and by its beard. 1 and forequarters, and by its beard.
126 126 served mostly at evening parties.

BISTORT. BISTORT. BrsroRTE BISTORTE - A A farinaceous farinaceous plant, plant, the the roots roots of of which which are are twisted twisted in in an an S-shape, S-shape, baked baked on on hot hot coals coals and and eaten eaten by by the the Samoyeds Samoyeds instead instead of of bread. bread. The The tender tender leaves leaves of ofthis this plant, plant, found found in in some sorne high high Alpine Alpine regions, regions, are are eaten eaten like like spinach. spinach.
any any kind kind of ofmeat; meat; beef, beef, mutton, mutton, pork, pork, veal, veal, chicken, chicken, rabbit, rabbit, etc. etc. Mince Mince the the meat, meat, add add bread bread soaked soaked in in milk milk and and finelv finely chopped chopped onion on ion (either (either raw raw or orlightly lightly fried), fried), season, season, and and put put through through a a mincer mincer again again to to ensure ensure perfect perfect smoothness. smoothness. Shape Shapeinto intocakes cakesabout about4 4 clrn. cm.(lt (ltinches) inches)in indiameter, diameter,dredge dredge in inflour, flour,fry fryin inbutter, butter,cover coyerwith withsour sourcream, cream,and andsimmer simmerfor for 55to 7 minutes. to 7 minutes.

BITOK BITOK @ussian (Russian cookery). cookery). BrroKE BITOKE - Bitok Bitok can can be be made made of of

BITTER. BITTER.AMER AMER-- Having Havingan an unpleasant, unpleasant, wormwood wormwood taste. tas te.

gentian, pansy, gentian,germander, germander,hops, hops,Iichen, lichen,wild wild pansy,lesser lessercentaury, centaury, quassin (bitterash), ash),cinchona, cinchona,rhubarb. rhubarb. quassiaamara amara(bitter

or or decoctions decoctions are: are: wormwood, wormwood, camomile, camomile, endive, endive,fumitory, fumitory,

Among Amongthe thebitter bitterplants plantswhich whichare areused usedfor formaking makinginfusions infusions

BLANQUET BLANQUET
According According to to Foussagrives, Foussagrives, infusions infusions or or liqueurs liqueurs made made of ofbitter bitterplants may may be be divided divided into into five !ive classes classes (i) (i)purgative mU'oni""'" bitters, ; (ii) billers, based on on rhubarb, rhubarb, aloes, aloes, etc. etc.; (ij) nauseous nauseous bitters, based based on on camomile; camomle; (iii) (iii) astringent astringent bitters, bitlers, which, wbich, with witb the the
Operation consisting of boiling BLANCHING. BLANCHJNG. srlNcHn BLANCHffi-- Operation consisting of boiling them, or, various variousingredients ingredientsin in salted saltedwater walereither eitherto toharden barden them, or, them' as as in in the the case case of ofsome sorne green green vegetables, to ta cook cook them. water, are Some Sorne ingredients, previously soaked soaked in in cold cold water, are as in the blanched blanched in in water water (gradually brought brought to to the the boil), boil), as in Ihe lambs' and calves' and trotters, heads calves' case of case of calves' and aotters, calves' and lambs' sweetsweetskin. breads, breads, etc., etc., both both to to cleanse cleanse them them and and to to harden harden the the skjn. to is blanched large dice, in (pork) generally cut Bacon Bacon (pork) fa! fal.., cut in large dice, is blanched to green vegetables, extract extract surplus surplus salt, salt, before fryingit. il. Certain Certain green vegetables, to reduce such such as as green green cabbages, cabbages, onions, on ions, etc., etc., are are blanched blanched to reduce their their pungency. Other Othervegetables vegetables and and fruiq fruit, such such as as tomatoes, tomatoes, peel. peaches, etc., eIC., are are blanched hlaoched to to render render them them easier easier to to peel. To remove skin, husk, etc. BLANCHING BLANCHING (Nuts). (Nuts). MoNDER MONDER - To rem ove skin, husk, etc. of of almonds, almonds, walnuts, walnuts, pistachios pistachios and and hazelnuts. ha:l.elnuts. skin. Pour Pour boiling boiling water water over over the the shelled shelled nuts nuts to to soften soften the the skin.

bitter bitter substance substance content content of of tannin, tannin, include include

cinchona, cinchona, knapweed, KOiiDvveeiO. bark bark of ofchestnut chestnut tree, tree, etc.; etc.; (iv) (iv) stimulating stimulaling bitters bitters (apritifs) based . based on on wormwood, wormwood, peel peel of of bitter bitter oranges, oranges, gentian, gentJan, germander, gennander, hops, hops, etc. etc.; (v) convulsing convulsing or or toxic toxic bitters bilrers ; (v) medicine. belong belongin in the the province province of ofmedicine.

BITTER BITTER ASH. ASH, nors-AMER BOIS-AMER - Quassia Quassia arnara amara (q.v.), (q.v.), used used in in
the the preparation prepara1ion of of ap6ritifs. aperitifs.

BLACKBIRD. BLACKBIRD. ri,rEnrn MERLE - Bird Bird of of the the thrush thrush family, family, with with black black plumage plumage and and yellow yellow beak. beak. Its lts flesh flesh is is aromatic aromatic in in flavour flavour and and slightly slightly bitter, bitter, and and is is most most fragrant fragrant in in autumn. autumn. Corsican Corsican blackbirds blackbirds enjoy enjoy a a great great reputation. reputation. (See (See THRUSH.) THRUSH.)

BLACK BLACK CUMIN. CUMIN. NIGELLE NIGELLE - Plant Plant of of the the Ranunculus Ranunculus family, family, the the pungent pungent seeds seeds of of which whch are are used used as as a a spioe in ln India India and and the the Mediterranean Mediterranean region. region. The The seeds seeds can cao be used used instead instead of of pepper. pepper.
BLACKCURRANT. cAssls CASSl'\ BLADDER.
bush bush used used to to make make a liqueur (see (see RATAFIA) RATAFIA) and and preserves. preserves.
vDssIE VESSLE - Membraneous Membraneous bag bag in in animals, animaIs., used used after butchering butchering in charcaterie charcuterie to ta prepare prepare certain certain dishes, dishes, for for example example Roum Rouen fucklins duckling m en chemise chemise (see (see DUCK). DUCK).
- Fruit Fruit of of the the -

BLANCMANGE. -'These BLANCMANGE. BLANc-MANcrn BLANC-MANGER'These delicious delicous sweets,' swects,' 'are said Carme in in his his Traiti Trait des des enftemets entremets dc de douceur, douceur, 'are said Carme they greatly greatly esteemed esteemed by by gastronomes, gastronomes, but" but, to to be he enjoyed, enjoyed. they two must must be be extremely extremely smooth smooth and and very very white. white. Given Gven these these Iwo be qualities qualities (so (so rarely rarely found found together), together), they tbey will will {w1y,s. always be

blackcurrant blackcurrant

on BLAISOF BLAJSOIS or BIESOIS BLSOIS of France France bordering bordering on - Region of the Loire. are of Blaisois The specialities specialities of specialities Culinary Culillary speciaIities - The Blaisois are Orl6anais. similar to those of nearby Orlanais. quality' for !heir their quality. known for well known rillons are weil rillettes and and rillons Blois ril/eues particularly the the excellent, particularly All the charcuterie charcuterie of this region is excellent, Ali (see (blood) puddings black (blood) and black andouillettes and sausages, andouillettes puddings (see same in the the same made in are made PORK); game pdtis; pts; lark pdtis which are pdti,made Chartres pll, shape as the famous Pithivi ets pdtis;and sbape and Chartres made ofpartridges. of partridges. fish, freshwater fish, pike, carp and other other freshwater are the pike, excellent are Also excellent blanc (see au beurre beurre blanc (q.v.), stewed, or or au prepared en en matelote matelote (q.v.), following The """J'VU"'" quality. The good quality. of good is of Blaisois is in Blaisois itlfE). Meat Meat in d la lapereau gastronomes: lapereau by gastronomes: esteemed by are esteemed specialities are Sp<~Cl:'1lJt.les Sologne style); gAteau in the the Sologne (young rabbit cooked in rabbit cooked silognote (young SOl,O!!!iIOle des de"rJoi.~eu.!?s demoiselles Tatin(see (see PITHIVIERS), tarte des PITHIVIERS); tarte Pitiiviers (see I-"IIJ~"JJPr~ (tart) and and Orl6ans cotignacs (q'v')' Lamotte-Beuvron (tart) TART) ; Lamotte-Beuvron TART); Orl6anais include Saintand Orlanais Blaisois and of Blaisois Wines -- Wines Wines of Wioe5 Orl6ans the Orlans among the Beaugency among and Beaugency Meung and Jean-de-Braye, Jean-de-Braye, Meung wines. Blois wines. the Blois of the Cdte-des-Grouets of wines, and and .cte-des-Grouets wines, to and tend tend to of sun sun and lack of from aa lack suffer from wines ofien often suffer These wines These local perfectly with the local go perfectly with the but they they go edge, but on edge, teeth on one's teeth set one's set region. of the the region. dishes of dishes
describe aa used to to describe usually used term usually culinary term A French French culinary BLANC -- A BLANC flour in in and flour water and of water mixture of from aa mixture made from court-bouillon made courl-bouillon certain andcertain offal and white offal as white such as substances, such various substances, which various which cultivated which cultivated n which A court-houillon court-bouillon in cooked. A arecooked. vegetables, are vegetables, (se COURTCOURTblanc (sec called blanc is also also called cooked is are cooked mushrooms are mushrooms BOUILLON). BOUILLON). on either on based either stock, based whitestock, to white isalso also applied ta name is This name This (see STOCKS, White Stocks). WiteStocks). chicken (see vealor orchcken veal orother other chickenor ofchicken define breaSI breast of todefine isused usedto blanc s Theterm termblanc The volaille, de volaille, asblancs blancsde onmenus menus as poultry whicb which are described on aredescribed poultry etc. etc.

obgiventa toChampagne Champagne obNamegiven BLANC DE DE BLANCS BLANCS - - Name BLANC distinct asdistinct white grapes,as from the Pinot-Chardonnay white tainedfrom thePinot-Chardonnay tained grapes,the the'Blanc from blackgrapes, frornthe obtainedfrorn theChampagne Champagne obtained from 'Blanc Noirs'. deNoirs'. de
127 127

jellies.. This is preferred to to other other creams, creams, even even to ta transparent jellies.This is creamy' because almond almond is is very very nourishing and contains just right for sweetening the are properties which balsamic balsamic properties which are just bitterness bittemess of of humours.' humours.' 'Blanch Blancmange Hhmc:ma'nee (Car6me's (Carme's recipe). BLANc-MANGER I:ILANC-MANGHR - 'Blanch about 450 450 g. g. (1 lb., generous 3 3 cups) sweet sweet almonds almonds and and about in a bowl of cold to soak them Leave almonds. bitter twenty twenty bitter Leave to soak in a bowl of cold a sieve water, water, which which renders renders them them singularly singularly white. white. Drain Drain on on a sieve them, mortar, in a Pound napkin. and and rub rub in in a a Pound in a monar, moistening moistening them, prevent at a with I tablespoon water little little by by little, little,! water at a time, time, to to prevent into a fine oil. When they them them turning tuming into ioto oil. they are are pounded pounded into a fine 5 glasses filtered water, dilute with and dilute paste, a bowl bowl and put into ioto a with 5 glasses filtered water, paste, put a dish, over a a clean clean napkin a time. at a time. Spread a httle at lOOeAi added a !iule napkin over dish, 2 people twistin-g the with 2 and, with into it and, pour the the blancmange into pour the milk. Put in 350 g- (12.o2., almond milk. press out out all the the almond napkin, press napkin, oz., fine Sleve. a fine sieve. through a and rub rub through granulated sugar sugar and l]-cupsf granulaled g. (l oz. plus add 30 30 g. again, add once again, Sirain-through a napkin once (1 oz. plus Blend than tepid. Blend little warmer warmer than a liule 4 grains) clarified isinglass a in a a and place in mould and a mould into a with the blancmange. Pour into ice. with crushed ice. container with container glass rum to the add t glass rum blancmange, blancmange, add 'To make make rum 'To rwn to the blancmaraschino blanca maraschino make a To make above. To described above. mixture described mixture glass maraschino. maraschino. add 1mange, add I glass pots, prepare two-thirds of in small 'To serve small pOIS, sweet in this sweet serve this prepare two-thirds of you will, however, recipe; you preceding recipe; quantity given given in in tbe the preceding the quantity tbe will, however, in small small served in blancmange as blancmange served less isinglass, as little less a lttle need a need it is to be turned out. when than delicate more pots be to has pots has lo be more tban when it is ta he tumed out. vanillq coffee, coffee, lemon, vanilla, with lemon, flavoured with be flavoured can he Blancmanges cao Blancmanges and strawberries. strawberries. hazelnuts and pistachio nuts, chocolate, chocolate, pistacbio nUlS, hazelnuts incorporated-' be incorporalcd.' can also also he cream can Whipped cream Blanch BLANc-MANGER (modern method). Blancmange HIElUclrnalllge (modem BLANC-MANGER - Blanch 15 g' and 15 almonds and (9 OZ., sweet almonds g. (9 lit cups) sweet oz., li and skn skin 250 g. and g. pound in a mortar and pound almonds and (L oz., bitter almonds teaspoons) bitter o2.,5 H 5 teaspoons) in a mortar (scant pint, cups) 2{ litre with Dilute little water. water. Dilule with ~1 litre (seant pint, 2i cups) with aa little with over a cloth over linen cloth coarse lioeu paste on on to to aacoarse this paste Turn tlUs water. Turn cold water. cold a the paste milk. Return almond all the out and squeeze bowl bowl and squeeze out ail the almond milk. Retum the paste fresh water enough fresh pound again, adding enougb again, adding and pound mortar and the mortar to the to water milk. almond milk. (scant pint, pint,2l cups) almond extract ;litre toextract I litre (seant lO 2i cups) (* g' oZ.)softened softened 15 (! oz.) (7 oz.) Heat 200 200 g. (7 oz.) lump sugar, 15 Heat wooden spoon gelatine and stir with aawooden almond rnilk, and seir and the almond gelatine itis is tepid, add I Whenil cool. When tocool. leaveta and leave until ilit boils. boils.Strain Strainand until tepd, kirsch. orkirsch. (6 tablespoons, seant! rumor cup) mm scant Icup) dl.(6tablespoons, dl. mould bavarois pourinto into aabavarois mould iscold, cold, pour mixture s themixture When the When plaoe on crushed ice' andplace oil,and almond oil, greased with withsweet sweet almond On cmshed ice. an hour. afteran andserved servedafter outand turned out beturned canbe The blancmange blancmange can hour.

(l

August. orAugust. inJuly Julyor ripens in pearwhich whichripens Frenchpear BLANQUET - -French BLANQUE'!'

BLANQUETTE BLANQUETTE
There a-T kinds:the two. the and large the small blanquet. There are two kinds: large and the small blanquet. They They aremediocre mediocre in flavour,and and used mostlyfor for com-potds. are in flavour, used mostly compotes.

BLANQLIETTE - -White ragofrt,based Whiteragot, based onlamb, lamb,veal veal BLANQUETTE on or or chickenmeat, meat, boundwi with yolksand egg and cream,and chicken bound th egg yolks cream, accomand accompaniedby garnishof bya agamish ofsmall smallonions onions cookedinincourtpanied cooked court_ (q.v.),and bouillon(q.v.), andmushrooms. mushrooms.Other Otheringredients ingredients are somebouillon are sometimesadded addedto garnish. tothe thegamish. times Cutthe themeat meatinto pieces.Coyer intopieces. Coverwith withwhite whitestock Cut water, stockor or water, season and andbring bringto tothe theboil. boil.Remove Removescum. scum. season Addan anonion onionstudded studdedwith withaaclove, clove,a acarrot Add carrotand anda a bouqtetgarni garni(q.v.). (q.v.).Simmer gentlyfor Simmergently for45 45minutes bouquet minutesfor forlamb lamb orchicken, chicken,and and1i l| hours hours for forveal. veal.Drain Drainthe or and pieces thepieces and retum them them to panwith tothe thepan withsmall smallonions retum onionsand andmushrooms mushrooms whichhave have been beencooked cookedin inwhite whitecourt-bouillon court-burillon (q.v.). (q.v.). which velouti(q. (q.v.) by thickening thickening the Prepare v.) by theliquor liquorwith with -Prepare aa velout (q.v.) and whi3e roux roux (q.v.) and binding biriCing with with egg yolks and white eggloks aridcream. .rra.. juice, Add.a-little_lemon sprinkle with withchopped Add a little lemon juice, sprinkle ifiopped parsley, parsley,and and garnish with with heart-shaped heart-shapedcrotons cro0tons fried gamish friedin inbutter. butier. Blanquette I la la mnagre, n6nagdrgalso also caUed Blanquette crlled Fricasse Fricass6e - _ Fry Frv pigces of of meat, meat, as as described described above, above, in pieces in butter, butter, without *itt orrt alfowing them them to to brown. brown. Sprinkle Sprinklewith allowing withflour, flour,stir, stir, moisten moisten with white white stock stock or or water, water, bring bring to with to the theboil, boil,season, season, and andadd add an onion onion stuck stuck with with aa clove, clove, aa carrot an carrot and and aabouquet bouquet garni garni (q.v.). (q.v.). BT9 with with egg jrolks and egg yolks and cream, cream, as Bind described in as described in the therecipe recipe ^ Blanquette. for Blanquette. For For further further recipes for recipes for for various various blanquettes, blanquettis, see LAMB, LAMB, VEAL, VEAL, CHICKEN. CHICKEN see BLANQUETTE DE DE LIMOUX LIMOLX -- Sparkling BLANQUETTE Sparkling white white wine wine made made by the the 'natural' 'natural' method; method; the by the sparkle sparkle is is derived derived from gas from gas generated by by natural natural fennentation. generated fermentation. A A second second fermentation fermentati-on takes place in in the the bottle bottle without takes without the the addition addition of (In of sugar. sugar. (In other words, words,.through other through the the transfonnation transformation of of natural grup" n"turai grape in the the parent wine sugar remaining in wine after after the the first first fermentafermintiIt is is produced from the tion.) It the Mauzac Mauzac and and Clairette grapes, Clairette grapes, and gets its name from the commune of the Aude. of Limoux Limou in intnJeuae.

called livre (hare), because the shape ofof its head resembles (hare), called liCvre because the shape its head resembles that of the hare. ItIt is is also found inin the Jake ofof Bourget and the that of the hare. also found lake thi Bourget and the fishermen of this region cali it it chasseur (hunter). InIn other fishermen of this region (hunter). call chasseur other regions isis known asas bavecca. regionsit it known bavecca. The blenny's fiesh, white and good in flavour, is mainly _ The blenny's flesh, wiite and good in flavour, is mainly fried, but can also be used asas an ingredient for matelotes fried, but can also be used an ingredient for matelotis (q.v.). (q.v.). BLETTE - -Name sorne of France toto white BLETTE Namegiven giveninin parts someparts of France white beet or chard. beet or chard. BLEU - Method applied toto freshwater (Tocook BLEU(To cookau aubleu) bleu) applied freshwater - Method fish, This fish into fistr,mainly mainlyto totroul. trout. Thisconsists consistsof plungingthe ofplunging the fish into a aboiling generally aa mixture of water boilingcourt-bouillon court-bouillon(q.v.), (q.v.), generaliy of water -iit,r.e and with and andvinegar, vinegar,seasoned seasoned withsalt salt andsometimes sometimesspiced spicedwith with thyme thymeand andbay leaf. bayleaf. Cooked skin the especially that of Cookedin inthis thisway, way,the the skinof of fish, thefish, especially that of -accentuate trout, trout,takes takeson onaaslightly slightlybluish bluishcolour. colour.To Toaccentua te the the be sprinkled with pure vinegar, before blueing, can blueing, the thefish fish can be sprinkled with pure vinegar, before immersing immersing ititin incourt-bouillon. court-bouillon. AIl fish cooked All fish cookedau anbleu blatare generallyserved aregenerally servedwith withmelted melted butter, handed separately; or with Hollandaise sauce (see separately; or with Hollandaise sauce (see lgtlgfanded SAUCE), SAUCE),or orany anyother other white whitesauce saucespecially speciallyrecommended recommended for poachedfish. forpoached fish. BLEU called BLEU D'AUVERGNE D'AUVERGI\E --Cheese Cheesethat isstill thatis stillsometimes sometimes called Bleu Blat de deSalers, Salers, eaten eaten from from November November to toMay. May. BLEU eaten from BLEU DE DE BASSILLAC BASSILLAC -- Limousin Limousincheese cheese eaten from November November to to May. May. BLEU BLE-U DE DE BRESSE BRESSE -- ROl.~nd Roqnd blue cheese from blue cheese fromthe thecocooperative operative of of Servaz Servaz in in the the Ain. Ain. BLIND (To bake). CUIRE BLANC - Flan (pie shell) baked Cfo bake). curBE A sreNc - Flan (pie shell) baked I|.II-VOi.e. 'blind', are baked in the 'blind', i.e. empty. empty. Sorne Some tart tart and and fian flan cases cas"s'ir. baked in the oyen, removed oven, and and filled filled with with dried dried vegetables, vegetables, which which are are removed once the cases are cooked. They are then filled once the cases are cooked. They are then filled with with the the ingredients ingredients indicated indicated in in the the recipe. recipe. Cuire also describes the cooking of certain Cuire au an blanc blanc also describes the cooking of certain substances in a special (mostly white substances (mostly white offal offal or variety meats) or variety meats| in a special court-bouillon cour t-bouillon (q.v.). (q.v.). BLINI pancakes which have (Russian cookery) BLIM (Russian cookery) -- Blini Blini are are pancakes which have been been made made in in Russia Russia from from lime immemorial, especially time immemorial, especially during blini and various fillings during Shrovetide. Shrovetide. Recipes for !.ecipes for blini and various-fillings are given under HORS-D'UVRE. are given under HORS-D'GUVRE. A. Petit, in his Trait la cuisine russe, says that during A. Petit, nhis TraitC de de h cuisine russe, says that during Shrovetide, humblest cottage to the richest palace, Strovetide, 'from 'from the the humblest cottage to the richest palaci they ail have their their blini, a day, the whole of that week'. they all have blini, twice twrcn a day, the whole of that week'. Batter for for blini. bUni. pArs PTE BLINIS - Prepare a light batter of Batter A BLrNrrs - prepare a light batter of 20 g. (t oz., oz., I 1 cake) yeast diluted in t litre 2i 20 yeast cake) dilutod in I litre (scant (siant pint, pint, 2l e. G cups) warm warm milk milk and and 50 g. (2 oz., t cup) sieved fiour. Leave cups) 50 g.Q oz., ] cup) sieved floui. Leave warm plae place for 2 hours. ta ferment ferment in in a a warm to for 2 hours. Add 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 o2.,2| oz., 2i cups) sieved fi a ur, 4 egg yolks, 3 dl. Add cups) sieved flour, 4 egg yolks, 3 dl. (t pint, pint, l| li cups) cups) wann warm milk milk and a pinch -of of salt. Mix (| and a pinch salt. Mix thoroughly. Add 4 egg whites whisked to a stiff froth, and thoroughly. Add 4 egg whites whisked a stiff froth, and io 1 dl. (6 tablespoons, scant t cup) whipped cream. Leave the I dl. (6 tablespoons, scant * cup) whipped cream. Leave the batter to ta rise rise for for 35 35 minutes. minutes. Make small pancakes, frying batter Make small pancakes, frying them in in butter. bu tter. them

Bleak

BLEAK BLEAK (Able0. (Ablet). ABLETTE ABLETTE - Small Small European European freshwater freshwater fish, fish, with with white, white, rather rather insipid insipid flesh. flesh. It It is is used used mostly mostly for for frying. frying.

BLENDER BLENDER - An An electrically electrically operated operated appliance appliance used used in in restaurant restaurant and and home home kitchens kitchens for for chopping chopping and and pur6eing pureing sm ail quantities quantities of of foodstuffs foodstuffs in in the the preparition preparation oT of soups, soups, small sauces, soufl6s, souffis, baby babyfood food and and other other dishes. dishes. It It is is also also usedto used to sauces, emulsifyeggs eggs for for such such sauces sauces as as Hollandaise, Hollandaise, B6arnaise, Barnaise, etc. etc. emulsify
BLENNY. BLENIYY.
BLENNIE cAGNETTE CAGNETTE BT.ENNTE

freshwjiter fish. fish. All Ali the the other other members members of oftne the blenny blenny family family f,reshwpter aresea seafish. fish. A Acharacteristic characteristicwhich whichis iscommon common to to all ail blennies blennies are isthe theabsence absenceofscales, of scales,the thebody bodybeing beingcovered coveredwith withaalayer layerof of is viscousmucus mucusof ofexceptional exceptionalthickness. thickness. It Itvaries variesin in size sizefrom from viscous 10to ta 15 15cm. cm. (4 (4to ta 66inches) inches) and and is is fawn-coloured, fawn-coloured, speckled speckled l0 withbrown, brown,with withbrown browntransversal transversalstrips stripsalong alongthe theback. back. with

A genus genus of of European European - A

mainly in England for breakfast and for high tea. The bloater bloateris grilled on a low fire and served with melted The is grilled on a low fire and served with melted butter or Matre d'htel butter (see BUTTER, Compound butter or Maltre d'h6tel butter (see BUTTER, Compound butters). butters).
served

BLOATER. cRAeuELor CRAQUELOT - Slightly salted, smoked herring BLOATER. salted, --slightly served mainly in EngJand for breakfast and smoked for high herring tea.

dpartement. It Itis isparticularly particularlyplentiful plentiful in in Agde, Agde, where where it it is is dCpartemenr.

The blenny blenny abounds abounds in in the the waterways waterways of of the the H6rault Hrault The

BLOCK. BILLOT - Thick, short piece of tree trunk, placed BLOCK. BrLLor - Thick, short piece of tree trunk, placed on three three legs, legs, which serves for chopping-up meal. on which serves for chopping-up meat. A butcher's block is usually a wooden table encJosed in a A butcher's block is usually a wooden tible enclosed in a wooden frame. wooden frame.

128 t28

BONBON BONBON
BLOhID BLOND DE DE VEAU VEAU - Old Old French French culinary culinary term tenn which describes describes white white veal stock. Car6me, Carme, nhis in his Traiti Trait des sauces, sauces,
uses this term. uses
Whit is used used in in the preparation preparation of of some sorne brown White veal veal stock stock is glazing certain sauces (see SAUCE) or for glazing certain substances. substances. sauces clear BLOND DE VOLAILLD VOLAILLE - A synon)4n synonym of of fond fond blond, c1ear
and can be removed like like a choke of of a cooked artichoke. artichoke.

or thickened chioken chicken stock (see SAUCE, Brown sauces). sauces). Rich veal or chicken stocks are used for braising braising certain certain vegetables, ascelery, lettuces, etc. vegetables, such su ch as celery, artichoke hearts, lettuces,

BLONDIR lightly cooking BLONDIR - The The operation operation of of!ightly cooking any any substance substance in butter, butter, oil, oil, or or other other fat. The term tenn faire faire blondir also also describes describes the the cooking of of a The .). butter mixture mixture which constitutes a light roux (ql (q.v.). flour and butter
SANG - The blood of butchered animals animaIs has has no BLOOD. sANG part in nutrition but it has a number number of industrial uses (the sugar, the manufacture treatment of wines, clarification of sugar, manufacture treatment products, fertilisers, fertilisers, etc.). of coal products, The other blood) is The blood of the the pig pig (often (often mixed mixed with with other used to to make boudin (black pudding), pudding), and and the the blood blood of usd make boudin

This mushroom mushroom is found in in woods, under oak, oak, chestnut and and beech beech trees trees and and sometimes under pines. pines. In ln the the Paris region region it it appears appears in in April and and is is sometimes very very plentiful plentiful in in the the autumn. The underneath may may be be white, yellow yellow or greenish greenish but but never red. The stem is white, white, yellow yellow or brown; it spots. The it should sbould never never have have any any red red spots. The flesh flesh which which is exposed to the air remains white and never becomes green; green; its taste is very pleasant, never never bitter. Very old old cipes, cpes, with green tubes and damaged damaged by by slugs, should be avoided. pized mushroom; it The The cipe cpe is a highly prized it is, is, however, a little some authorities, !ittle indigestible. indigestible. According According to to sorne authorities, its of other nutritive nutritive value, value, like like that that of other fungi, fungi, is is insignificant. insignificant. (See (See MUSHROOMS.) MUSHROOMS.)

rabbit, hare and chicken is used used to thicken the dishes called ca lied - after the blood has been added civets, which - must not be heated above (l58F.), the temperature tempe rature above heated above 70e. 70'C. (158"F.), above which coagulates and blood coagulates and the mixture curdles. curdles. Poland Blood soups are made in Sweden (svartsoppe) and Pol and (tchernina).
BLOOD PUDDING BLOOD PUDDING - See PORK. BLUE GAZELLE. oAz,ELLE BLLIE GAZELLF,. GAZELLE cooked Iike like roebuck. BOAR - See WILD BOAR.

goat found BLELTE Edible goat BLEUE found - Edible very delicate, delicate, is which is is very mainly at Its meat, meat, which mainly at the Cape. Its the Cape.

jar glass bottle bottle or jar BOCAL Wide-mouthed, short-necked glass BOCAL - Wide-mouthed, pickling vegetables vegetables and and fruit fruit (gherkins, for for bottling bottling or or pickling vegetables, cherries, cherries, small capers, mixed vegetables, capers, small small onions, onions, mixed melons, etc.) etc.) or for preserving fruit in brandy.

Bombe Born be moulds: mould ngit, old-fashioned old-fashioned round mould /e/r, modem modern conical mould; right, left,

(lvon DU) (To have). CORPS a wine has has ou) -- One One says a BODY BODY (To coRps (AVOIR in the mouth mouth produces a sensation of plenitude in body when it produces and resulting from combination of strength and from a a harmonious combination flavour.
in the liquid in BOILING. BULLITION a liquid the The movement of a fsuruflor.I -- The a result process of vaporisation. as a vaporisation. Boiling takes place when, as that of the of heating, the equal to to that the steam pressure is at least equal liquid. constant. While a liquid is boiling its its temperature remains constant. norm for The point of water has as the the nonn has been been taken as The boiling point (212'F.). This This 100"C. (212F.). comparative pufposes, and at lOOe. and stands at comparative purposes, of a a degree degree per temperature a third by about about a third of decreases by temperature decreases (108 yards) yards) of altitude. 100 m. m. (l08
cherry tree. BOIS - Variety offragrant of fragrant cherry BOIS DE SAINTE-LUCIE SAINTE-LUCIE-Variety

in a (Ioe cream). a Ice cream cream made in BoMBE GLACE GLAcfE cream). BOMBE BOMBE (Ice - !ce it is modem cookery cookery it In modern mould, hence hence its its name. name. In spherical mould, (See ICE CREAMS, Bombes.) mould. (See made in in a a conical mould. made
(Sweet, candy) not have have been been Sweets could could Dot BONBON (Sweet, candy) BONBON - Sweets from the Orient by the Orient was brought brought from in Europe until until sugar sugar was made in is known known century. It is returning crusaders crusaders in the thirteenth century. the returning juices were were carried experiments with sugar-cane juices that the first experiments 1230. Before Before that that time, time, about A.D. A.D. 1230. in Sicily Sicily about Jews in out by the Jews juice and honey, and honey, in France France with with fruit fruit juice bonbons were were made made in bonbons or cinnamon. flavoured with amber or order to to In order very rapidly. rapidly. In The art art of making sweets sweets spread spread very of making The gentlemen great gentlemen well as as to court, as as weil to the great appeal to the the ladies at at court, appeal methods confectionery methods liking for sweetmeats, also had had a a liking sweetmeats, confectionery who also During variety of of sweets improved and and the the variety sweets increased. During were improved were was carried carried art was Renaissance tbis this art of the the Renaissance the brilliant brilliant epoch epoch of the gentlemen carried great gentlemen carried bonbonnires bonbonniDres further. Ali All the the great even further. even bonbon. ladies. These These bonbonto the the ladies. of sweets, which they they offered offered to sweets, which of with of them them set set with of art, art. sorne some of works of niires were were often often works nires precious stones. stones. precious great and a a great continued, and confectionery continued, The making making of of confectionery The variety of is available available today. today. of sweets sweets is variety principal groups groups as as in four four principal can be be c1assified classified in Sweets can Sweets pralines; (sugar-coated almonds) almonds) and and pralines; follows: drages dragies (sugar-coated follows: pastilles. boiled sweets sweets and and pastilles. bonbons fondants; bonbons fondants: boiled preparations, now now factory-made, factory-made, are are Other confectionery confectionery preparations, Other caramels, also classed in the category of of bonbons, bonbons, such such as as caramels, classed in the category also paste, a number of fruit paste, a certain certain number of butterscotch, toffee, toffee, fruit butterscotch, preparations, crystallised marzipan preparations, fruit and and walnuts, walnuts, crystallised fruit marzipan into sugar cooked to to crack crack almonds and and hazelnuts hazelnuts dipped dipped into sugar cooked almonds degree. degree.
129 129

for BOLE used for earthenware, used brown earthenware, BOLEE - Receptacle, usually brown also drinking This tenn term also and Brittany. This drinking cider cider in in Normandy and it is is Thus it applies in the receptacle. Thus the receptacle. applies to cider contained contained in to the the cider said: 'Boire une - 'To 'To drink a bowlfuJ bowlful of of drink a de cidre' cidre'said:'Boire une bole bolie de cider'. cider'.
BOLETUS (CCpe). BOLET about of fungi fungi of of which which about BoLEr -- Genus BOLETUS (Cpe). Genus of 70 one is is an an expert, in France. France. Unless expert, the the 70 species are known Unless one species are known in gafely be gathered is only is the can safely the be gathered which can only boletus boletus mushroom which boletus de Bordeaux Bordeaux and and in France France as as cpe cdpe de boleni edulis, edulis, known known in young. It tte cap, It has has a t?te de de ngre nigre when when it it is is young. a bronze-col()Ured bronze-coloured cap, grows, it grows, white underneath, As it white and and swollen stem. As underneath, on on a a white swollen stem. the overlap the the stem, stem, lighter brown, brown, begins to to overlap cap becomes a lighter the cap becomes a green, yellow. Later the tubes turn Later the turn green, the underneath becomes becomes yellow. the tubes

BON.CHRNTIBN BON-CHRTIEN BON-CHREffEN -- A pear of A pear of which which two two varieties varieties are are BON-CHRTIEN known; one one ripens ripens in in summer, summer, the the other other in in winter. winter. known; The flesh flesh of pear is of this quite sweet this pear is quite sweet but but aa little little gritty. gritty. It It The is usually usually ealen eaten cooked. cooked. is
BOFDON -- Type Type of of cheese cheese manufactured manufactured in in Neufchtel Neufchdtel BONDON (See CHEESE.) in Normandy. Normandy. (See CHEF,SE.) in
MoELIT -- Flaky Flaky pastry pastry vol-ou-vent vol^au-vent filled filled while while hot with aa hot with MOELLE (q.v.) salpicon (q of beef beef bone-marrow bone-marrow blended blended with td,th Demi-glace Demi-glace salpicon .v.) of (se SAUCE), sauce (see SAUCE), or very concentrated or very concentrated veal veal stock. stock. sauce Flavour, if if desired, desired, with with aa little little shallot shallot cooked cooked in in white white Flavour, wine until until ail all the liquid has the liquid has evaporated. evaporated. wine

BOllE. os os -- Any Any of of the thE ,eparate parts of sQparate parts of aa vertebrale vertebrate BO/lt'E. skeleton, fonning forming iL~ its framework. framework. Bones Bones are are composed composed of of a a skeleton, cartilaginous substance substance impregnated impregnated with with calcareous calcareous salts. salts. cartilaginous By boiling boiling in in water, water, especially especially under pressure, they under pressure, produce they produce By gelatine. Bones, Bones, added added to give it to stock, stoch give gelatinous conit a a gelatinous congelatine. sistency. sistency. Uses of of boues bones and and meal parins -- After meat panngs prolonged cooking, After prolonged cooking, Uses bones retain retain a juices and a considerable considerable qu;mtity quantity of of juices gelatini and geJatine bones which can can be be extracted, extracted, fiavoured flavoured with with vegetables, vegetableg seasoned, seisoned, wbich and used used for for soup. soup. and Boil down down this this stock stock until until it it is is transformed transformed into into meat meat Boil jelly which keeps keeps weil well and and can can be be used used for for strengthening strengthening jelly which soups and and sauces. sauces. soups juices, the To extract extract ail all the the jnices, the bones bones should should then then be be broken To up as as small possible. This small as as possible. This second second stock stock is is not not an an up proposition, unless economical proposition, unless it it can can be be done done without without economical using any any further further fuel, fuel, for for instance, instance, if if one one has permanent a permanent has a using fire at one's disposaI. at one's disposal. fixe
BONE-MARROW. MOELLE MoELLE f,atty substance A soft, soft, fatty BONE-MARROW. - A contained in in marrow-bones. marrow-bones. contained Spinal marrow marrow is part of is that that part of the the central central nervous nervous system Spinal contained in in the the spinal spinal cord. cord. The The spinal spinal marrow of meat sold sold eontained marrow ofmeat in sections sections is (see OFFAL called amourette amourette (see OFFAL or VARIETY or V in is called ARIETY MEATS). MEATS). Beef bone-marrow. MOELLE MoELLE DE Cut the marrow marrow in Beef bone-marrow. DE BoEuF BOEUF - Cut in poach (using a thick slices (using a knife dipped in water). Poaeh in boiling boiling water). thick slices knife dipped without salt water, water, and and drain. drain. This This is is used used to without boiling boiling in in salt garnish steaks. steaks. garnish Beef bone-marrow, drained, is Beef bone-marrow, diced, diced, poached poachcd and and drained, is also used in various sauces. used in various brown brown sauces. Bone-narrov canap6s. CANAPS clNnprs A ra LA uoerm MOELLE Bone-marrow canaps. - Made from from the the marrow marrow of of the the large large marrow-bone marrow-bone cooked in in the pt-au-fat pot-ou-feu or or petite petite marmite marmite (see (see SOUPS SOUPS AND AND BROTHS). BROTHS). These canapis served in These canaps can can be be served in two two ways: ways: 1. L Spread Spread the the marrow marrow on on slices slices of of toast. toast Season Season with with salt and and freshly frcshly ground ground pepper. peppeL 2. 2. Spread Spread a a salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) of of marrow marrow (poached (poached and and well weIl drained) drained) on on slices slices of of toast. toasL Decorate Decorate with with strips strips of of marrow, marrow, poached poached in in salt salt water water and and drained, drained, or or seasoned seasoned with with pepperpeppercorns corns ground ground in in a a mill. milL Sprinkle Sprinkle with with fresh fresh breadcrumbs breadcrumbs tossed tossed in in butter butter and and drained. drained. Put Put the the canapis canaps in in the the oven oYen for for a a few few moments. moments. Bone-marrow Bone-marrow fritots frilols. FRrrors,i, FRITOTS ra LA rraonrr.u MOELLE - Cut Cut into into thick thick slices. together in in pairs pairs with with forcemeat forcemeat (preferably (preferably slices. Stick Stick them them together it gratin), gratin), and and steep steep for for 20 20 minutes minutes in in oil, oil. lemon lemon juice, juice, salt, salt, pepper pepper and and chopped chopped parsley. parsley. Dip in Dip them them in a a light light batter, bat ter, deep-fry deep-fry in in very very hot hot fat. faL Drain, Drain, dry dry in in a a cloth, cloth, and and garnish garnish with with fried fried parsley. parsley. Salpicon of bone-marrow. booe-marrow. sAI,prcoN SALPICON DB DE MoELLE MOELLE - Dice Dice the the Salpicon of marrow marrow and and poach poach without without bringing bringing to to the the boil. boiL Blend Blend with with (see Demi-glace sauce Demi-glace sauce (see SAUCE), SAUCE), flavoured flavoured with with shallot shallot which which has has been been cooked cooked in in white white wine wine until until all aIl the the liquid liquid has has evaporated. evaporated. This This is is used used as as a a filling filling or or garnish garnish for for flaky fiaky pastry pastry vol-auvol-auvent vent and and canapis, canaps, fried fried bread bread (in (in fancy fancy shapes), shapes), coddled coddled or or poached poached eggs, cggs, artichoke artichoke hearts, hearts, large large mushrooms, mushrooms, etc. etc. Bone-manow r,c LA Monrrn MOELLE - Sauce Sauce served served Bone-marrow sauce..sAUcE sauce. SAUCE A with or saut6ed sauted fish, fish, and and poached poached or or coddled coddled wilh meat, meat, grilled grilled or eggs. eggs. (See (See SAUCE.) SAUCE.) Small SmalJ vol-au-vent vol-au-vent with witb bone-marrow. bone-marrow. roucrmrs BOUCHES A rl LA
130 130

BONING. DSOSSER onsossm. -- The process of The process of removing removing the the bones bones BONING. joint of from aa joint poultry or of meat, meat, poultry other food, food, whether whether cooked or other cooked from or raw, raw, which which con contains bones. or tains bones. The boning poultry requires boning of of raw raw meat meat or or poultry requires skill, skill, since since The the bones bones should should be be taken taken out out without without damaging damaging the meat. the meaL the

BONITO. BONITE BoNrrE -- Small Small species of tunny, species of tunny, commonly commonly BONITO. found in in the the Mediterranean Mediterranean and and on on the the Atlantic Atlantic coast, coast, found where French French fishermen germon.It fishermen also also cali is an call it it germon. important an important where lt is fish on on the North American Pacific the North Pacific coast prepared in coast and in and is is prepared fish (tuna). the same same way way as as tunny tunny (tuna). the
BONI\E-DAME -- Common Common name name for for orach orach in in France. France. BON/It'E-DAME
BONhIES-MARBS -- Vineyard Vineyard of of the Cdte de the Cte de Nuits Nuits that that BONNES-MARES produces noted noted red red wines. wines. 11 partly in It is is situated situated partly in the comthe comproduces Morey-Saint-Denis and and partly in in that ihat of of Chambollemune of Morey-Saint-Denis (C6te-d'Or), and Musigny (Cte-d'Or), and has right to legal right has the the legal to a a special special Musigny (See BURGUNDY.) appe llation. (See BURGUNDY.) appella/ion.
pumpkin. BONNET-TURC of pumpkin. BONNET-TURC - Variety of

BONVALET cake, almost almost identical with the Olle one calI called BONV ALET cd - This cake, was created pastry-cook, Jules created in in 1869 1869 by by a a pastry-cook, Beauvilliers was Leroy, who who was (See was in charge of of the Maison Machin. Machin. (See the Maison in charge Leroy, BEAwTLLTERS.) BEA UVILLlERS.) BOOPS. BocuE Mediterranean fish which two specics species BOOPS. BOGUE fish of which - Mediterranean are knowil" known: the the common common boops boops which which reaches 35 cm. cm. (14 are reaehes 35 inches) in length, and bogue saupe. and the the bogue inches) in This fish, fish, which which can can be d la la meunire, meuniire, and and This be served fried, fried, poached, and which is also used bouillabaisse, is poached, and used in bouillabaisse, is remarkremarkable of its colour olive-yellow on able for for the the brightness brightness of iL~ colour - olive-yellow the back and and silver on on the belly. BORAGE. BORAGE. BouRRAcr{E BOURRACHE plant. Its lts - Herbaceous perennial plant. flowers some regions of France as as fritters. fiowers are are cooked cooked in in sorne fritter,. The young young leaves Ieaves are used for flavouring fiavouring salads, iced drinks, drinks, herbal herbai tea and vegetables, vegetables, and also aiso for flavouring fiavouring claret cup.

BORAX BORAX or or SODIUM SODIUM PERBORATE. soRArE BORATE

DE souDn SOUDE-

This This was sometimes sometimes fraudulently used, used, under various names names such such ars as 'preservative 'preservative powder', powder', 'antiferment', 'antiferment', etc., etc., for preserving butter, wine, etc. preserving meat, fish, butter, Its lts use use was forbidden in in France bv by an order of of 14 14 Julv. July, 1891. 1891.

BORD-DE-PLAT BORD-DE-PLAT - Small Small utensil utensil used used in in the the kitchen to 10 protect proteet the the border border of of a dish on which food food in in sauce sauce is being being
served. served.

BORDEALIX BORDEAUX - Gourmands, Gourmands, connoisseurs connoisseurs of of good things things to 10 eat, and and gourmets, gourmets, experts in in the the subtle subtle art art of of wine wine tasting, lasting, hold particular regard. regard. hold this this town town in in particular Bordeaux, Bordeaux, whose whose wines wines and food food were were being being sung long long ago by by the the poet poet Decimus Decimus Magnus Magnus Ausonius, Ausonius, born born in in l.o. A.D. 310, 3 J0, is is the the birthplace birthplace of of one one of of the the greatest greatest men men in in French French classical c1assical cookery, cookery, Dugl6r6. Duglr. He He had had for for long long been been in in charge charge of of the the kitchens kitchens at at the the Cafi Caf Anglaas Anglais in in Paris, Paris, which which at at that that time lime was was frequented frequented by by kings, kings, princes princes and and all ail the the most most illustrious illustrious gastronomes gastronomes of of Europe. Europe. Culinary Culiosry specialities specialities - Crayfish Crayfish d la la bordelaise; bordelaise; lamprey lamprey with wilh leeks; /eeks; mussels musse/s d h la bordelaise; bordelaise; escargots escargots d In la Caudiran; Caudran; jried whitebait; whitebait; sausages sausages with with oysters; oysters; entrec|te entrecte d la la fried bordelaise; bordelaise; leg leg of of lamb lamb d la la ficelle; ficelle; chicken chicken sauti saut d la la bordelaise; bordelaise; Pauillac Pauillac lamb lamb d la la persillade; persillade; foie foie gras gras with with grapes; grapes; terrine terrine de de Nirac; Nrac; pdtd pt de de foie joie gras gras au au truffes; truffes; cApes cpes

BORDEAUX BORDEAUX

0
o Red

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20
White wines

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Map Map of the Bordeaux Bordeaux wine-growing wine-growing district district of the

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t

garlic; pancakes d la sautt with with garlic; la bordelaise; bordelaise; aubergine aubergine saut d la la bordelaise; pastry-cooks of bordelaise; and made by and famous famous cakes cakes made by the the pastry-cooks of Bordeaux. Excellent cheeses produced throughout region. cheeses are are produced throughout the the region. Wines tu rai regions great viticul regions of of viticultural Wines Bordeaux is is one of the the great one of - Bordeaux France, The wine wine wines. The France, producing sorne of the world's best best wines. some of the world's district within the the contained within district of Bordeaux is is completely completely contained of Bordeaux borders mainly in parts Iying lying in the the parts borders of of the the Gironde Gironde dpartement, dlpartement,mainly along Garonne and and along the rivers Gironde, Gironde, Garonne the course course of of the the rivers Dordogne. for more than Dordogne. It more than It has known and and esteemed esteemed for has been been known two poet Ausone years. Even sang the the two tbousand thousand years. Even the Ausone sang the Latin Latin poet praises praises of of these these wines. wines.

Bordeaux range of of wines: wines: very comprehensive comprehensive range Bordeaux bas has a a very red, from from the the white, most liqueur-like; liqueurJike; red, white, from from the driest to to the the most the driest (the Englishman's 'claret') to lightest most full-bodied. full-bodied. lightest (the the most to the Englishman's 'claret') Besides 'generic' appellations of white white and and appellations of Besides the the so-called so-called 'generic' red clairet and and red Bordeaux, Bordeaux clairet Bordeaux, Bordeaux Bordeaux suprieur, sup6rieur, Bordeaux Bordeaux produced ail region, the the Bordeaux ros, all over over the the region, ros6, which which are are produced in their great great divisions into regions, regions, which which in their divisions are are sub-divided sub-divided into tum divided into into vineyards vineyards and and appellations. appellations. turn are are divided (9 Mdoc. 15 km. km. (9 land approximately Midoa A long strip of land approximately 15 strip of A long miles) and of the Garonne and miles) broad, on the left banks banks of the Garonne broad, situated situated on the left the in the Blanquefort in the south south to to the Gironde, Gironde, extending from Blanquefort extending from Pointe are two distinct in the There are two distinct Pointe de de Graves Graves in the north. north. There 131 r3l

BORDEAUX BORDEAUX
not-so-good years years but but capable capable of perfection in of maturing maturing to to perfection not-so-good in great vintage years. White vintage years. the great White liqueur-like liqueur-like wines, wines, very very the similar to to Sauternes, Sauternes, are produced in are produced in the the south of the region. south of similar the region. The dry dry white white wines wines of of Graves Graves make make worth worthy companions y companions The oysters, seafood, to oysters, seafood, fish fish and poached or and shellfish, grilled or shellfish, poached or griiied or to in delicate delicate sauces. sauces. The The red red wines wines serve purpose as serve the the same same purpose in as those of of Mdoc. M6doc. They, They, too, (See classificatoo, age age magnificently. magnificently. (See those classification GRAVES.) GRAVES.) tion Sauternes-Barsac and and Crons. CCrons. These These wine wine districts districts form form aa Sauternes-Barsac sort of of enclave enclave in in the the Graves Graves region region north north and sort and west west of of produce white, Langon. They They produce white, liqueur-like liqueur-like wines wines the Langon. the colour colour and tas taste of honey, honey, and and have have a a flowery flowery bouquet, greatly bouquet, greatly and te of esteemed by by connoisseurs. connoisseurs. These These wines wines are product of are the the product esteemed of the vinification vinification of of over-ripe over-ripe grapes grapes which which are are almost almost in in aa the crystallised state picked, owing state when when picked, owing to to the the action action of crystallised of aa microscopic fungus fungus called 'botrytis', which called 'botrytis', which encourages encourages the microscopic the sugar to concentrate in to concentrate in the grape. Sauternes the grape. Sauternes wines wines are are sugar usually consumed consumed as as dessert dessert wines, wines, but but real real connoisseurs connoisseurs usuaJly like to to drink drink them gras, fish them with with foie fish in in sweet sweet sauces like sauces and and foie gras, parslied cheeses. certain parslied cheeses. certain Loupiac and and Saint-Croix-du-Mont, Saint-Croix-du-Mont, situated on the situated on Loupiac the opposite side of the picturesque slopes side of the Garonne Garonne on on picturesque opposite slopes overoverlooking the the river, river, produce white white wines wines similar similar to looking to those those of of (See classilication Sauternes. (See classification tables.) Sauternes. Saint-Emilion. This This wine wine district district is is situated situated on on the Saint-milion. the right right bank of of the the Dordogne Dordogne east east of of the the town town of of Libourne, Libourne, and bank and extends into into the the commune of of the the same same name name and extends and several several neighbouring areas. neighbouring Also worth worth rhentioning mentioning are 'satellite' appellations are the the 'satellite' Also appellations such as as Saint-Georges-Saint-milion, Saint-Georges-Saint-Emilion, which which have such the right havJthe to affix affix the 'Saint-Emilion' to the appellation appellatlon 'Saint-milion' to to their their own. own. Two be singled singled out: those of the 'slopes' which the 'slopes' types of wine can be and more full-bodied, full-bodied, and and those of the 'gravel', are rounder and the 'grave!', which are are sappy sappy and and more tannic. Both Both have have the which more tannic. the same same rubiness and and fullness fullness which make them ideal with red meat. rubiness meat, game, meat and and sauce dishes, and and the cheeses. game, appellatians contrles cont|lies of Saint-milion Saint-nmilion are: The appellations are: Saint-The Emilion-Premier-Grand-Cru-Class6, Saint-milion-GrandSaint-Emilion-Grandmilion-Premier-Grand-Cru-Class, Cru-Class6, Saint-milion-Grand-Cru, Saint-Emilion-Grand-Crq Saint milion. Cru-Class, Emilion. 'Satellite' appellations: appe llations: Lussac-Saint-milion, Lussac-Saint-Emilion, Montagne'Satellite' MontagneSaint-Emilion, Parsac-Saint-Emilion, Saint-milion, Parsac-Saint-milion, Puisseguin-SJintPuisseguin-Saintmilion, Saint-Georges-Saint-milion, Sabls-SaintSa-bl6s-SaintEmilion, Saint-Georges-Saint-Emilion, Emilion. milion. Pomerol. This wine wine district district begrns begins at at the the very very gates gates of Libourne. Libourne. A A ferruginous ferruginous subsoil with a pebbly topsoil topsoil gives rich, rich, sappy, sappy, full-bodied wines wines with with a pronounced pronounced personality personality powerful bouquet and a apowerful bouquet - perfect perfect companions companions for red meat, meat, meat in sauce, game (even (even big big game) and cheese. cheese.

A Bordeaux Bordeaux vineyard (French Govemmenl vineyafi, (French Govemment Tourisl Ofice) Tourist Office) A

divisions within within the the region: region: Bas-Mdoc Bas-M6doc in in the the north; north; divisions Haut-M6doc in in the the south south where where the the communes communes of great of the the great Haut-Mdoc appellations of of Margaux, Margaux, Saint-Julien, Saint-Julien, Pauillac, Pauillac, SaintSaintappellations Estbphe, Moulis Moulis and and Listrac Listrac are are situated. situated. Estphe, M6doc wines wines are generous, and are tannic tannic and and generous, and mature Mdoc admirably. They They are are superbly superbly elegant elegant wines wines with with a a fine fine admirably. bouquet and and aroma, aroma, and and make make excellent excellent accompaniments accompaniments bouquet all types to all roast and grilled meats. and grilled of roast meats. Those Those of of Moulis, to types of Moulis, Listrac and and Saint-Estphe Saint-Estbphe are are best drunk with with red meat and and Listrac best drunk red meat game; of Margaux, Margaux, Saint-Julien Saint-Julien and and Pauillac with Pauillac with game; those those of (See accompanying white meat and lamb. lamb. (See accompanylng table table for white meat and for the classification of these classification of these wines.) wines.) The Chdteau-Haut-Brion in commune of of Pessac The Chteau-Haut-Brion in the the commune Pessac is is not actually in in Graves, only exexnot actually in M6doc Mdoc but but in Graves, and and is is the the only ception the firs t grow th category. ception in in thejirst growth category. Graves. The Graves region of M6doc, Graves. The Graves region lies lies to to the the south south of Mdoc, encircling encircling the the town town of of Bordeaux Bordeaux and and extending extending along along the the left bank of of the the Garonne Garonne to to the the region region of of Sauternes. Sauternes. It Il left bank produces produces red'sappy'wines red 'sappy' wines closely closely related related to to those those of of M6doc, Mdoc, good quality of lasting of good lasting quality and and with with a a bouquet bouquet reminiscent reminiscent of of the the resin resin and and undergrowth undergrowth of of the the nearby nearby pine pine forests; forests; aristocratic aristocratic dry dry white white wines, wines, also also sappy, sappy, with with a a superbly superbly elegant elegant bouquet bouquet and and taste, taste, pleasant pleasant when when drunk drunk young young in in the

Dordogne Dordogne River River and andvineyards vineyardsof ofSaint-Andr6-de-Cubzac Snint-Andr-de-Cubzac

r32 132

BORDEAUX BORDEAUX
Second Secondgrowth growlh

Mouton-Rothschild Mou ton-Rothschild

Rauzan-S6g1a..... :.. . . . . . Rauzan-Sgla ........... .'. . ......

. Rauzan-Gassies Rauzan-Gassies ..................... L6oville-Lascases. Loville- Lascases ................... L6oville-Poyferr6 Loville-Poyferr ................... . L6oville-Barton Loville-Barton ..................... Durfort-Vivens Durfort-Vivens .. .................... Lascombes Lascombes ............. . . , ........ Gruaud-Larose-Sarget Gruaud-Larose-Sarget .......... . ... Gruaud-Larose Gruaud-Larose ..................... . Brane-Cantenac. Brane-Cantenac .................... Pichon-Longueville Pichon-Longueville ................. Pichon-Longueville-Lalande Pich on- Longueville- Lalande .......... Ducru-Beaucaillou Ducru-Beaucaillou ................. . Cos Cos d'Estournel. d'Estournel .................... Montrose Montrose .........................

. . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Pauillac Pauillac Margadx Margaux Margaux Margaux Saint-Julien Saint-Julien Saint-Julien Saint-Julien Saint-Julien Sain t -J ulien Margaux Margaux Margaux Margaux Saint-Julien Saint-Julien Saint-Julien Sain t -J ulien Cantenac Cantenac Pauillac Pauillac Pauillac Pauillac Saint-Julien Saint-J ulien Saint-Estbphe Saint-Estphe Saint-Estbphe Saint-Estphe

Kirwan Kirwan .......... . ..... . .......... .

. Issan Issan .......... . .............. . ... Lagrange Lagrange ......................... . Langoa-Barton Langoa-Barton .................... Giscours .................... . ..... Giscours .. Malescot Saint-Exupry Saint-Exup6ry. Malescot ............. . Cantenac-Brown Can tenac- Brown ................... . Boyd ..................... Boyd . . . . . ... Palmer ........................... Palmer Lagune ........ " .............. La Lagune La Desmirail ................. . ....... Desmirail Calon-Sdgur..... Calon-Sgur ....................... Ferribre ........................... Ferrire . d'Alesme-Becker ........... Marquis d'Alesme-Becker Marquis

growth Third Third growth

grapes at Pressing Pressing grapes at Saint-Emilion Saint-Emilion Ofrce) Tourist Office) (French (French Government Goverrunmt Tourisl

. . . . . . . . . . . . .

Cantenac Cantenac Cantenac Cantenac Saint-Julien Saint-Julien Saint-Julien Saint-Julien Labarde Labarde

Margaux Margaux Cantenac Cantenac Cantenac Cantenac Cantenac Cantenac Ludon Ludon Margaux Margaux Saint-Estbphe Saint-Estphe Margaux Margaux Margaux Margaux

wines; Pomerol wines; the Pomerol of the There classification of official classification is no no official There is place. Chteau-Ptrus given first first place. is usually usually given Chiteau-P6trus is Pomerol, de Pomerol, 'Satellite' Lalande de of Pomerol: Pomerol: Lalande appellations of 'satellite' appellations de and 'Lalande de appellatian'Lalande (which has the appellation right to to the the right has the N6ac (which and Nac Pomerol'); red wines. wines. are red these are of these all of Pomerol'); ail is rich rich Other Bordeaux is of Bordeaux district of wine district The wine appellations. The Other appellations. glowingin the strong strong glowing include the which include wines, which appellation wines, other appellation in other of west of wines Canon-Fronsac, west and Canon-Fronsac, Fronsac and de Fronsac C6tes de of the the Ctes wines of the andthe Libourne Garonne; and of the the Garonne; bank of right bank on the the right Libourne on Gironde, Bourgeois of the theGironde, bank of right bank onthe the right Blayais on the Blayais and the Bourgeois and opposite Mdoc. M6doc. opposite -Between inthe triangle thetriangle Between the Dordogne,in and the the Dordogne, Garonne and the Garonne the issituated formed situated the rivers, is two rivers, of the the two confluenoeof the confluence by the formed by large region covets,aalarge appellat.ioncovers The appellation 'Entre-deux-Mers'. The regton 'Entre-deux-Mers'. mellow, but but production tobe bemellow, used to which used wine which whitewine prbduction of of white demands which currentdemands meetthe tlecurrent drier to tomeet anddrier vinified drier drieiand isvinified wni*r is have whichhave of good redwines wineswhich verygoodred aresorne some very Thereare oftoday. today.There the Bordeaux andBordeaux Bordeatrx and appellationsBordeaux theappellations right to to the theright the suprieur. arethe there are geographical region reeron there samegeographical Inthe thesame sup6riJur.In Premires, Vayres, deVayres, Gravesde theGraves Bordeaux, the deBordeaux, C6tesde Premibres, Ctes Bordeaux-Saint-Macaire Dordogne Dordogne ofthe the borderof onthe theborder and,on Bordeaux-Saint-Macaire and, dpartement, Saint-Foy-La-Grande dipar t ement,Saint-Foy-La-Grande.
CLASSIFICATION WINES MEDOCWINES THEGREAT GREATMDOC OFTHE CLASSIFICATIONOF First COMMUNE coMMUNE Firstgrowth Chteau-Lafite ..................... . Pauillac Pauillac . Chiteau-Lafite. Chteau-Margaux .................. . Margaux Margaux Chteau-Latour .................... . Pauillac Pauillac Chflteau-Latour. (Graves) Chteau-Haut-Brion ................ . Pessac (Graves) Pessac

growth Fourth growth Fourth Saint-Pierre- Sevaistre ........ .. ... . . . Saint-Pierre-Sevaistre Saint-Pierre- BontemPs .............. . Saint-Pierre-Bontemps Branaire-Ducru. BranaireDucru .................... . Talbot ........................... " Talbot ... Duhart-Milon .. Duhart-Milon . .................. . Poujet ........................... . Poujet Carnet .................... . Tour Carnet LaTour La Rochet. Lafon Rochet Lafon ...................... . Beychevelle ........................ . Beychevelle Le Prieur Prieur6 ........................ . Le Terme.................. . deTerme Marquisde Marquis growth Fdth growlh Fifth Pontet-Canet.... Pontet-Canet ............. . ........ Batailley .......................... Batailley Grand-Puy-Lacostc.................. Grand-Puy-Lacoste Grand-Puy-Ducasse ................ Grand-Puy-Ducasse Bages. LynchBages Lynch ....................... Moussas .................... LynchMoussas Lynch Dauzac... '" ..................... Dauzac ..... PhiliPPe............. Mouton-BaronPhilippe Mouton-Baron Tertre ......................... Le Le Tertre Haut-Bages ................. . ..... Haut-Bages P6desclaux ........................ Pdesclaux Belgrave ., ........................ Belgrave Camensac.............. . .......... Camensac CosLa bory ....................... Cos-Labory Milon....................... Clerc Clerc Milon Bages CroizetBages Croizet ...................... Cantemerle Cantemerle ............ . ...........
133 133

Cantenac Cantenac Saint-Laurent SaintLaurent Saint-Estbphe Saint-Estphe Saint-Julien Saint-Julien Cantenac Cantenac Margaux Margaux

Saint-Julien Saint-Julien Saint-Julien Saint-Julien Saint-Julien Saint-Julien Saint-Julien Saint-Julien Pauillac Pauillac

. Chiteau-Margaux . Chdteau-Haut-Brion

growth

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Pauillac Pauillac Pauillac Pauillac Pauillac Pauillac Pauillac PauilIac Pauillac Pauillac Pauillac Pauillac Labarde Labarde Pauillac Pauillac Arsac Arsac Pauillac Pauillac Pauillac Pauillac Saint-Laurent Saint-Laurent Saint-Laurent Saint-Laurent Saint-Estbphe Saint-Estphe Pauillac Pauillac Pauillac Pauillac Macau Macau

BORDELAISE (A LA) BORDELAISE ( LA)

CLASSIFICATION OF THE SAUTER.NES WINES CLASSIFICA TION OF THE SA UTERNES WINES First great growth coMMUNE First great growth COMMUNE Chdteau d'Yquem Sauternes Chteau d'Yquem .................. . Sauternes
First growth First growth Chiteau-LaTourBlanche... Chteau-La Tour Blanche ........... . ChAteau-Peraguey Chteau-Peraguey .................. . Chdteau-Rayne-Vigneau.... Chteau-Rayne-Vigneau ............ . Chdteau-Suduiraut Chteau-Suduiraut ................. . Chdteau-Coutet. . Chteau-Coutet .................... . Chiteau-Climens Chteau-Climens ................... . Chdteau-Guiraud . Chteau-Guiraud .................. . Chflteau-Rieussec Chteau-Rieussec .................. . Chdteau-Rabaud-Sigalas . ... Chteau-Rabaud-Sigalas ............ . Ch0teau-Rabaud-Promis .... . Chteau-Ra baud-Promis ............ .
Second growth Second growth Ch6teau-Myrat .. Chteau-Myrat .................... . Ch0teau-Doisy-Dubroca ... . Chteau-Doisy-Dubroca ............ Chdteau-Doisy-Dadne . Chteau-Doisy-Dane .............. . Ch0teau-Doisy-V6drines .... Chteau-Doisy-Vdrines ............ . Chdteau-Arche .. Chteau-Arche .................... . Ch0teau-Arche-Lafaurie.... Chteau-Arche-Lafaurie ............ . Chdteau-Filhot . Chteau-Filhot .................... . Chdteau-Broustet Chteau-Broustet .................. . Chdteau-Nairac. . Chteau-Nairac .................... . Ch0teau-Caillou . Chteau-Caillou ................... . Chdteau-Suau... Chteau-Suau " ................... . Ch6teau-de Malle Chteau-de Malle .................. . Chdteau-Romer-Lafon Chteau-Romer-Lafon .............. . Ch0teau-Lamothe-Bergey .. . Chteau-Lamothe-Bergey ........... . Chdteau-Lamothe-Espagnet . Chteau-Lamothe-Espagnet ......... . sfA.rrLr.Es A l',q,NcrcNNn- -Fill Filla a butteredring ring mould BATILLES L'ANCIENNE buttered mould with aa with vealor or chicken Mousseline forcemeat (see FOnCEMEATS) chicken Mousse/ineforcemeat (see FORCEMEATS) veal poachslowly andpoach slowlyin inthe the oven ina a (q.v.). bain-marie When and oyen in bain-marie (q.v.). Wh en cooked,allow allowto to stand for few minutesfor for the forcemeat to cooked, stand for aa few minutes the forcemeat to settle. settle. Turnthe thering ringout outonto ontoa adish, dish,and andfi.!l fillthe the centre witha a Tum centre with ragofitof oflambs' lambs'sweetbreads, sweetbreads, cocks' cocks'combs combsand andkidneys, kidneys, ragot trufresand andmushrooms, mushrooms,mixed mixedin tna aVelout (iee Veloutdsauce sauce(see truffles SAUCE) flavoured flavouredwith withMadeira-laced Madeira-lacedTruffle (see Truffiefumet SAUCE) fumet(see FUMET).Gamish Garnishwith withslivers sliversof oftruffle truffieheated heatedin inconFUMET). concentratedmeat meatstock. stock. centrated Ringfor forbrains brainsi la pi6montaise.BORDURE lapimontaise. nonounsDE DECERVELLE cERVELLE Ring pfuoNrArse - - Butter m PIMONTAISE Butter aaring ringmould mouldand andfill ALA fillititwith with put Risotto pidmontaise(see lapimontaise (seeRICE). RICE). Put the themould mouldin inthe the Risotto dla ovenfor foraafew fewminutes minutesto heatit toheat itthoroughly. thoroughly. oyen Turnout outand andfill fillthe centrewith thecentre withescalopes escalopes of ofCalves' Calves'brains brains Turn (seeOFF OFFAL oTVARIETY MEATS)mixed mixedwith with AL or VARIETY MEATS) dlapoulette la poulette (see slicedmushrooms. mushrooms. Decorate Decorate the thebrains brainswith with thin thin slices slicesof of sliced truffiesheated heated in inconcentrated concentratedmeat meatstock. stock. truffies Egg ring ring Brillat-Savarin. Brillat-Savarin. BORDURE BoRDT.JRE D'OEUFS D'oEUFsBRILLATEgg BRTLLATsAvARrN Fill aa mould mould with with Veal (see Veal forcemeat SAVARIN Fill forcemeat (see FORCEMEATS) and poach in and poach in the theoyen oven in in aabain-marie FORCEMEATS) bain-marie (q.v.). Turn Turn out out and and fill fill the the centre centre with with eggs which have eggswhich (q.v.). have been been scrambled with with Parmesan Parmesan cheese cheese and anddiced diced truffies. truffies. Sprinkle scrambled Sprinkle grated Parmesan, with grated Parmesan, pour pour aa little little melted melted butter butter over, with over, and and brown the the top top in in a a very very hot hot oyen. oven. brown Egg ring ring princesse. BORDURE pRrNcEssE -_ la princesse. i la BoRDURE D'OEUFS D'oEUFs PRINCESSE Egg Prepare as as Egg Egg ring ring Brillat-Savarin, Brillat-Savarin, using using scrambled Prepare scrambled eggs eggs with asparagus asparagus tips tips and and truffles. truffies. Scrambled Scrambled eggs with eggs with with craycrayfish, shrimps, shrimps, fruits de mer, mer, mushrooms, mushroomg truffles, fish, trufles, tomatoes, fruits de tomatoe;, etc. can can be prepared in be prepared in the the same same way. way. etc. Cream fish (see FORCEMEATS) FORCEMEATS) is Cream is used fish forcemeat used for forcemeat (see for Lenten entres. entries. Lenten Fish forcemeat forcemeat ring ring with with various various garnishes. garnishes BORDURE Fish BoRDURE DE DE polssoNs - These FARcE DE DE POISSONS rings, also also Lenten Lenten fare, FARCE fare, are are made made - These rings, of Cream Cream fish (see FORCEMEATS) FORCEMEATS) of of of pike, fish forcemeat forcemeat (see whiting or or other otherfish, whiting fish, moulded and baked as described above. above. They are are filled with with a ragot ragoitt of fish fish or shellfish, the followThey ing being particularly suitable for the the purpose: Ragot particularly sui table for ing being Ragofit of of shrimp, nantua nantua or fruity o, normande normand" sauce; fruits de de mer in shrimp, sauce; oysters oystrrc and oid mushrooms veloutd sauce; mussels mussels d la poulette; shrimps; mushrooms in in velout shrimps; slic-es uimi or of lobster lobs ter or sp@ spiny Iobster lobs ter d la crme s/ices of d l'amricaine; l,amdricaine; puries fish and mushrooms. fish pures or salpicons salpicons with truffies truffles and Ring of frogs' frogs' legs legs vert-pr6 vert-pr - BoRDURE BORDURE DE DE GRENOUILLES Ring of cRENourLLEs vrnr-pnf VERT-PR - Prepare Prepare the frogs' legs as described described in the recipe for.Aspic offrogs' legs legs d I'ancienne l'ancienne (see (see ASpIC), ASPIC), coating coating thern them for Aspic offrogs' only only with with White White chaud-froid chaud-froid sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Cover Coyer with jelly. jelly. Prepare Prepare a a jelly jelly ring ring decorated decorated with circlets of truffies. truffles. Season Season cooked, cooked, well-drained well-drained asparagus asparagus tips tips with with oil, oil, yineg3l, salt and and pepper. pepper. Turn Tum the the ring ring ou!out, and and put put the the vinegar, salt frogs' on iq it, overlapping overlapping them them sliglitly. slightly. Fill Fill the the centre centre frogs' legs legs on with !t" the asparagus asparagus tips tips blended blended with with concentrated concentrated aspic aspic SF jelly. Decorate with with truffie truffle dipped dipped in in jelly. jelly. jelly. Decorate

Bommes Bommes Bommes Bommes Bommes Bommes preignac Preignac Barsac Barsac Barsac Barsac Sauternes Sauternes Fargues Fargues Bommes Bommes Bommes Bommes Barsac Barsac Barsac Barsac Barsac Barsac Barsac Barsac Sauternes Sauternes Sauternes Sauternes Sauternes Sauternes Barsac Barsac Barsac Barsac Barsac Barsac Barsac Barsac preignac Preignac Farfues Fargues Sauiernes Sauternes Sauternes Sauternes

B-O_RDELAISE (A LA) - Culinary term which applies to BORDELAISE ( LA) - Culinary term which applies to different dishes in four categories. The first is chariiterised different dishes in four categories. The first is characterised by the sauce bordelaise, vvitth white or red wine and marrowby the sauce bordelaise, with white or red wine and marrowbone fat; the second by the addition of cipes; the third by bone fa t; the second by the addition of cpes; the third by mirepoix; and the fourth by a garnish oi artichokes and mirepoix; and the fourth by a garnish of artichokes and potatoes. Other ingredients can be added. potatoes. Other ingredients can be added. This term also applies to various sweet courses (desserts), This terrn also applies to various sweet courses (desserts), cakes, etc. (See MUSHROOMS, Cipes d ln b)ordetaisi'; cakes, etc. (See MUSHROOMS, Cpes la bordelaise; CRAYFISH, MIREPOIX, SAUCE.) CRA YFISH, MIREPOIX, SAUCE.) BORDER @ing). BoRDURE - Dishes that are served in the BORDER (Ring). BORDURE - Dishes that are served in the form of a ringn which can be fonn of a ring, which can be made made of of quenelle quenelle or or other other forcemeat, rice, semolina and duchess potatoes for hot forcemeat, rice, semolina and duchess potatoes for hot jelly, dishes; custards etc. dishes; jelly, custards and and creams, creams, rice rice di,impdratrice, l'impratrice, etc. for cold and sweet dishes. for cold and sweet dishes. Borders can be made of small cro0tons of bread, cut into Borders can be made of small crotons of bread, cut into vqigus shapes and frled in butter, fixed to the iniide edge various shapes and fried in butter, fixed to the inside edge gf the gerving of the serving dish dish with with a a mixture mixture of of flour flour and and egg egg whiie. white. Fancyjelly shapes can be similarly used for cold diif,es, and Fancy jelly shapes can be similarly used for cold dishes, and vegetable borders for hot dishes. vegetable borders for hot dishes. (border) Rfug of Hatilles batilles i I'ancienne. l'ancienne. BoRDURE BORDURE DE DE Ring (border) of

Fluted plain and ring (Deiiilerin. moulds Fluted aod plain ring moulds (Dehillerin.phot. Phot. Larousse\ Larousse)

r34 134

BORDER BORDER

(furo6s) Piping a a border border of of duchess duchess potatoes (Larousse) Piping

(Ldrousre) potatoes (Larousse) Border of of duchess polatoes Border

BoRDURE DE Game forcemeat forcemeat ring with various various garnishes. BORDURE (see Game forcemeat forceineat (see made of Game pur6es or salwith pures FORCEMEATS). The rings are filled with FORCEMEATS). The rings are filled SAUCE). picons game in White or Brown of game Brown sauce (see SAUCE). picons of poMMEs DE DE TERRE Duchess TERRE Potato ring. ring. aonouRn BORDURE DE DE POMMES Potato - Duchess potato mixture (see POTATOES) through a a forcingPOT A TOES) piped through a ring. hand into a bag onto a buttered dish, or moulded by hand covered with Fill the centre cooked fish covered Fill the centre with with slices slices of cookedfish Mornay sauce; slices of various shellfish; hashes hashes of various etc. in butter, butter, etc. kinds of meat; vegetables cooked in grated with grated Brush the ring with sprinkle with egg, sprinkle with beaten beaten egg, Brush the ring Pannesan, the grill. in the oven or under the the oyen and brown in Parmesan, and DE RIZ RIZ -Riee garnishes. BORDURES BoRDURES DE variow garnishes. Rice ring ring with with various prepared from rice pilaf, These from rice are usually prepared These rings (borders) are and bound with egg. consomm6 and risotto, or rice cooked in consomm it in in the oven Press the oYen mould and and set set it into the the mould rice weil well into Press the the rice for a a few minutes. with When turned out centre with dish, fiil fill the the centre a serving serving dish, out onto onto a various ingredients, such as mixed ragots or brown brown ragottts in white or sauce, etc. salpicons, etc. sauce, various salpicons, DE Semolina garnishes. BORDURE BoRDURE DE various garnishes. with various ring with Semolina ring in SEMOULE cooked in ring, using using semolina semolina cooked like Rice Rice ring, sEMouLE -- Prepare like consomm egg. and bound with egg. consomm6 and
GIBIERS - These are FARCE DE GIBIERS

ring with with various various garnishes. forecemeat ring Veal or or chicken chicken forecemeat Veal as Prepare as - Prepare biatilles d l'ancienne. recipe for for Ring Ring of ba I'ancienne. the recipe tilles indicated in the Fill the centre with with a a a dish. dish. Fill the centre ring out out onto onto a Turn the the ring Tum poulette, cocks' cocks' combs combs and and garnish: veal d la veal amourettes amourettes la poulette, gamish: veloati sauce, sauce, lambs' chicken in in velout lambs' of chicken it la la crme, uime, slices slices of kidneys poulette, veal veal or or chicken chickm hash hash d ta la or calves' calves' brains brains d la la poulette, or sauce, white or or brown brown sauce, mixed salpicons salpicons in in white crime, simple or mixed simple or crme, with purte of velouti sauce, scntce, eggs eggs scrambled scrambled with in velout of chicken chickm in pure with butter or fresh vegetables vegetables dressed dressed with butter or various ingredients, fresh with butter or vegetables blended blended with butter or of vegetables macidaine of cream, macdoine cream, h la crime. cream, mushrooms mushrooms ln crme. cream,
DE VEAU, DE VOLAILLE voLAILLE DE FARCE FARCE DE vEAU, DE BoRDURE DE BORDURE

in aa border round aadish dish Fancyjelly arranged in border round shapes arranged Pancy jelly shapes (Larousse) (Larousse)

D'ENTREITTs D'ENTRES, D'ENTRfEs, D'ENTREMETS

BoRDURES FROIDES FRoIDES or sweet sweet dishes. dishes. BORDURES rings for for entres entrees or Cold Cold rings made These borders borders are are usually usually made - These jelly. Cold made can also also be be made borders can fruit jelly. Cold entre entrie borders of of aspic aspic or or fruit gras, ham, game, chic mousses. chicken or fish fish mousses. ken or from from foie ham, game, foie gras,

Ring (border) of la normande normande of sole sole d la Ring (border)

Ring I-l oe SOLES A LA sorEs BoRDURE DE normande. BORDURE la normande. I la of sole sole Ring of (see FORCEFORCEa Cream Crearn fish Prepare a forcemeat (see fuh forcemeat - Prepare MEAT), centre with with Fill the dish. Fiil the centre it out out on on a a dish. and tum tum it bake and MEAT), bake a bound and mushrooms, mushrooms, bound a ragot ragof,rt of of mussels, shrimps and mussels, shrimps with (see SAUCE). SAUCE). sauce (see Normande sauce with Normande Roll Place a a white wine. wine. Place in white and cook cook in fillerc and Roll up up smail small sole sole fillets poached, with fillet, coyer cover with each fillet, on each poached, debearded oyster on debearded oyster normande . of truffie truffiewith thin thin strips strips of decorate with sauce and and decorate normande sauce .' Garnish (q.v.). in court-bouillon court-bouillon (q.v.). cooked in with crayfish crayfish cooked Garnish with
NORMANDE NoRMANDE -

For D'ENrREtffirs -- For RINGS BoRDUREs D'ENTREMETS RINGS FOR FOR DESSERTS. DESSERTS. BORDURES (see CREAMS, arc creams) are CREAMS, Custard Custard creams) cold cold sweets, sweets, custards custards (see When turned turned made has been been caramelised. caramelised. When made in in aa mould mould that that has pur6es of fruit, etc. of fruit, etc. or pures macdoines or out, centre is out, the is filled filled with withmacddoines the centre (see RICE) RICE) and and Rings Rings can can be be made made of of Dessert Dessert rice rice (see (q.v.), and fruit or any semolina filled with with macdoines macidoines of of fruit or any semolina (q.v.), and filled other for aa hot hot sweet. other mixture mixture suitable suitable for sweet. DE la vosgienne. vosgienne. BORDURE BoRDUREDE Custard ring with with mirabeUes mirabelles i la Custard ring MIRABELLES Prepare aa kirsch-flavoured kirsch-flavoured MTRABELLES A LA m VOSGIENNE vosctENNE -- Prepare (see CREAMS). Custard Custard cream crearn (see CREAMS). Fill ring mould mould with with the the cream, cream, and and Fill aa caramel-coated caramel-coated ring (q.v.). Allow cook in aabain-marie Allow to cool completely completely before cook in bain-marie (q.v.). to cool before tuming turning out. out.
135 135

BORIC BORIe
Cook the mirabelles in the mirabelles in syrup. syrup. Prepare Preparewhipped whipped cream creamor or Cook (see CREAMS). Chantilly cream ueam (see CREAMS). Turn Turn out out the the ring ring onto onto Chantilly adish, dish, and and fill fill the the centre centrewith with well-drained well-drained mirabelles. mirabelles. Top Top a with whipped whipped cream. cream. Serve Serve with with mirabelle mirabelle sauce sauce laced laced with with with kirsch. kirsch. ring with with cherries. Rioe ring cherries. BORDURE BoRDURE DE DERIZ Rtz AUX lux CERISES crnrsss - - Fill Fill Riee a buttered buttered ring ring mould (se RICE). mould with with Dessert Dessert rice rice(see RICE).Heat Heat a the mould mould for for aa few few minutes minutes in in the the oven, oven, and and turn it out turn it out the onto a a dish. dish. Fill Fill the the centre centre with with stoned stonedcherries cherries which which have have outo been simmered simmered in in syrup syrup and and combined combined with goosewith aa little little goosebeen jelly. berry jelly. berry Rice ring ring i la la crole. cr6ole" BORDURE BoRDURE DE DE RIZ Rtz A LA re cROLE cnfor,e - Riee Butter a savarin ring a savarin mould and ring mould and fill fill with with sweetened sweetened dessert dessert Butter rice. Turn Turn out, out, and and fill fill the middle with the middle with half-slices half-slices of pineof piuerice. apple which poached in which have have been been poached in vanilla-flavoured vanilla-flavoured syrup. syrup. apple preserved cherries Decorate with with preserved cherries and and angelica angelica lozenges. lozenges. Decorate Heat in in the the oven, oven, and and serve with rum-flavoured serve with rum-flavoured Apricot Apricot Heat (see SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). sauce Rioe ring ring Montmorency. Montmorency. BORDURE BoRDURE DE DE RIZ Rtz MONTMORENCYMoNTMoRENcy Riee Fill a a buttered buttered ring ring mould mould with with sweetened sweetened dessert dessert rice, rice, Fill pressing it it on on weil well to to ensure ensure that that there there are are no no holes. holes. Cover, Cover, pressing cook in in the and cook few minutes. the oven oven for for a a few minutes. Remove, Remove, and and turn turn and onto a a dish. dish. onto Fill the middle with the middle with stoned stoned cherries cherries which which have have been been Fill cooked in in syrup syrup and and weil well drained, drained, altemating alternating them them with with cooked layers of pastry cream (see CREAMS). of hot hot French pastry crecnn (see CREAMS). Finish Finish layers with a layer of piling them a layer of cherries, cherries, piling them slightly slightly into into a a dome dome with shape. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with crushed crushed macaroons, macaroons, pour pour on on sorne shape. some melted butter, g)aze in butter, and and glaze in a a very very hot hot oven. oven. melted (see SAUCE) Serve with with Cherry Cherry sauce sauce (see SAUCE) which which has has been Serve been laced with kirsch. Semolina ring ring filled fined with with various various fruit. fruit. BORDURE ronounn DE Semolina DE
sBMot LEGARNIE GARNIEDE DEFRUITS FRUTTS SEMOULE -

Fillaabuttered butteredring ringmould with mouldwith -FiU sweeteneddessert dessertsemolina, pressingititweil semolina,pressing wellinto iniothe sweetened themould. mould. Heat for foraafew fewmoments momentsin inaalow lowoven. Heat oven., Turnonto onto aadish, dish,and andfill fillwith withfruit fruitcooked Turn cookedin invanillavanillaflavoured syrup: syrup:halved halvedapricots, apricots, sliced pineapple,cherries, flavoured slicedpineapple, cherries, pears, quartered quartered apples, apples, etc. etc. pears, Heatin inthe theoven ovenfor foraafew fewminutes, Heat minutes, and andwhen whenready readyto to pour over serve, pour overititaafew fewtablespoons serve, tablespoons of ofliqueur-flavoured liqueur-flavoured apricot sauCe, sau@, or orother otherfruit fruitsauce saucewhich goeswith apricot whichgoes withthe thefilling. filling.
(Acid). BORIQUE BORIC (Acid). BoRIeTJB- -Sometimes preservative BOinC Sometimes used usedas asaapreservative (seeBORAX). agent (see BORAX). ageht
SeeSOUPS. SOUPS. BORSCH-- See BORSCH

BOTER MELK MELKor BOTER (Beleisn cookery) BUTTERMILK(Belgiao or BUTTERMILK cookery)- pearl barley Boil pearl barley in in buttermilk, Boil buttermilk, sweetened sweetenidwith. with brown brown sugar, for for l! l{ to sugar, to22 hours. hours. Before Before serving, serving blend blendin inaalittle little (cornstarch)diluted cornflour (comstarch) cornflour diluted in in cold cold water. water.Treacle Treacle (molasses) is (molasses) issometimes sometimes added. added. Vermicelli, rice, Vermicelli, rice,semolina, semolina" and and tapioca tapiocacan canalso alsobe becooked cooked in buttermilk, buttermilk, with in withcurrants, currants, sultanas sultanas and and cooked cookedapples apples added. added.
(Vicomte de) BOTHEREL BOTHEREL (Vicomte de) -- Famous Famous financier financier who who was was in Dinan born born in Dinan in n 1784 1784 and and who whodied in 1859. diedthere there in 1859. His His name name deserves deserves to mentioned in to be be mentioned in aadictionary dictionary of of cookery cookery for for it it was was he he who, who, under under the the Restoration, REstoration, created 'omnibuscreated 'omnibusrestaurants' . restaurants'.
BOTTLE. BOTTLE. BOUTEILLE BourErLLE -- Oenology, Oenology, the science which the science which deals deals wi th wine, tion to gives the with wine, gives the following following defini definition to the the word word bottle: bottle: various shapes ours according 'A glass phial phial of A glass ofvarious shapes and and col colours according to to the the nature nature of of the the wine wine it it is is intended intended to contain.' This means to contain.' This means

Botties: Bottles: 1. l. Double Double litre; litre: 2. Litre; 2.Litre'. 3. 3. Demi-litre; Demi-litre; 4. 4. Bordeaux Bordeaux bottle; bottle; 5. 5. Fillette Fillette d'Anjou; d'Anjou; 6. 6. Demi-Anjou; Demi-Anjou; 7. Anjou; 7. Anjou; 8. 8. Mconnaise; Miconnaise; 9. Champagne; 9. Champagre; 10. 10. Bourgogne; Bourgogne; II. 11. Saint-Galmier; Saint-Galmier; 12. Fiasco Chianti; 12. Fiasco de de Chianti: 13. Flte 13. Fl$te i vin vin d'Alsace d'Alsace

136 136

BOUCHE BOUCHE DU DU ROI ROI

that Bordeaux Bordeaux wines wines should should not not be be bottled bottled in in Burgundy Burgundy that wine bottles, bottles, and and vice vice versa' versa. No No doubt doubt this this larv law can can be be wine is a a case case of of ordinary ordinary table table wines; wines; in in fact, fact, digressed when when it it is digressed most of of these these wines wines are are sold sold in in so-called so-called Saint-Galmier Saint-Galmier most

of should should be be avoided, avoided, as as should should foods foods showing showing signs signs of
fermentation fermentation (bubbles (bubbles of of gas, gas, bulging bulging lids). lids). when BOUCANADE BOUCANADE - Spanish Spanish term term derived derived from from times times when wine goatskin bottles. bottles. In In slang slang it it means means wine was was placed placed in in goatskin quaffing quaffing straight straight from from the the bottle. bottle.

bottles. The The practice practice of of serving serving very very old old wines wines and and wines wines of of bottles. great growths growths out out of of wicker wicker cradles cradles is is not not approved approved by by great gastronomes; gastronomes; these these should should be be decanted decanted into into carafes carafes for for serving. serving. Contents of of bottles bottles in in France France - The The law law of of January January 1930, 1930, Contenb states: states: Article l. 1. Under Under the the conditions conditions of of Article Article 2 2 given given below, below, it it Article is forbiddOn forbiddn to to put put on on sale sale or or to to sell sell wines wines other other than than is sparkling wines, wines, wines wines imported imported in in bottles bottles and wines ininsparkling for export, export, wines wines imported imported in in bottles bottles and and wines wines tended for tended export, in in bottles bottles other other than: than: intended for for export, intended 1. Bottles BottIes known known as as bordelaise, bordelaise, bourguignonne bourguignonne andmdconand mconl. type and capacity capacity of which' which are indicated in in the naise, the type naise, 3 June 1866, table appended appended in in the the law law passed passed on I131866, concerning table trade usages; usages; trade 2. Bottles BottIes which correspond to the following characteris2. tics: tics: (cl.) Capacity (cl.) Type 200 200 Double litre litre Double 100 Litre 50 Demi-litre 90 Sain t -Galmier Saint-Galmier 75 Anjou 37'5 375 Demi-Anjou Demi-Anjou d'Anjou or Fillette d'Anjou 35 Fillette de Touraine Touraine 72 72 Rhine wine
receptacle a receptacle The of a is that that of above is indicated above The capacity capacity indicated (59'F.). This This measured at neck rim at a l5oC. (59F.). of 15C. a temperature of measuredit ca paci ty has 2 per cent. cent. of2 has a a tolerance tolerance of capacity the Article permitted to use bottles bottles the to use not be be permitted will not 2. It Article 2. It will given in in appearance description given the description answers the which answers of which appearance of unless Article 1 legal capacity, capacity, unless minimum legal the minimum not the I which have have not these capacity' indicating their their capacity. label indicating a label bottles bear a these bottles preceding In with the the preceding in accordance accordance with where, in In the case where, the case to paragraph, a in addition addition to bear, in should bear, is used, used, this this should label is a label indication of of the the indication capacity, the minimum capacity, of the the minimum indication of the indication such where such the wine, where in the the wine, contained in of a1cohol alcohol contained degree of the degree indication is compulsory. compulsory. indication is not Article are not in this decree are this decree laid down down in conditions laid 3. The The conditions Article 3. applicable to: applicable to: publication 1. the publication before the made before wines made Bottles containing wines l. Bottlescontaining of bottles put into above-ementioned bottles into the the above-ementioned and put decree and of this this decree before publication; the said said publication; before the 2. cellarascarafes, carafes, cellarsuchas bottles, such than bottles, other than 2. Receptacles Receptacles other jugs, for conconjugs, pitchers, are served served for which wines wines are in which pitchers, etc., etc., in sumption premises. on the the premises. sumption on

BOUCIIE BOUCHE DU DU ROI ROI - Term Tenn used used under un der the the old old r6gime rgime to to describe describe the the service service which which dealt dealt with with the the kitchens kitchens of of the the kings,,at royal household. These These services, services, under under certain certain kings, at royal household. of whom times times employed employed over over 500 500 people people (most (most of whom worked worked for for conexclusively conThey were only months in in the the year). year). They were exclusively only six six months from the distinct were and table king's cerned cerned with with the the king's table and were distinct from the certain and certain officers and for the the officers common common service, service, which which catered catered for
members members of of the the royal royal household. household. the food supplies, supplies, the with food dealing with roi included &t roi Bouche Bouche du included dealing pantler's The pantler's office. The butler's office. royal butler's and the the royal pantler's pantler's office office and king's with the the king's concerned with of everything charge of everything concemed omce nad office had charge were There were table. There of the the table. and accessories accessories of tableware, bread, bread, and of keeper of one keeper assistants, one four assistants, of service, service, four heads of thirteen thirteen heads and several several washer-up, and one washer-up, sommier, one one sommier, table-service, one table-service, various of these these various charge of in charge officials in the officials who assisted assisted the boys boys who posts. posts. with the the concerned with mainly concemed was mainly office was The butler's butler's office The heads ofthirteen consisted of and consisted king, and to the the king, served to beverages served beverages thirteen heads directed who directed sommiers, who fotn sommiers, and four five assistants assistants and of service, service, five of whenever baggage whenever carrying baggage pack animaIs animals carrying of pack convoys of the convoys the loaf a loaf carried a butler carried The butler war. The was at at war. or was king travelled, travelled, or the king the two of water, water, two bottles of two bottles wine, two of wine, bottles of two bottles bread, two of bread, of Majesty's His Majesty's to His canteen' to king's canteen, for the the king's ice for and sorne some ice napkins and an containd an canteen contained The canteen morning. The every moming. early every clolet early closet require aa king require the king should the beverages should of beverages stock of emergency stock emergency were beverages were These beverages closet. These in rus his closet. was in he was while he drink while drink office. royal butler's butler's office. of the the royal an officer officer of first by by an tasted first tasted master equerries, master included equerries, kitchens included royal kitchens for the the royal The staff staff for The pastrysoup-cooks, pastryroasting, soup-cooks, of roasting, in charge charge of cooks in cooks, cook s, cooks were who were errand boys, boys, who galopins or kitchen errand or kitchen and three three galopins cooks, and cooks, days. of those those days. kitchens of of the the kitchens commis of the commis the armchairfuel-carriers, annchairwater-carriers, fuel-carriers, also water-carriers, were also There were There and sert-d'eou,and of sert-d'eau, valetsof heralds, valets sommiers, heralds, ushers, sommiers, carriers, ushers, carriers, washers-up. four washers-up. four hadtheir their all had dauphine ail thedauphine and the queen, the dauphin and the dauphin The queen, The toaa servants to ofservants total of the total bringingthe services, bringing kitchen services, separate kitchen separate were royal household householdwere of the theroyal officials of The officiaIs great number. number. The very great very of reign of of the thereign endof theend until the aristocracy until of the thearistocracy membersof all members ail were bought bought royalservice service were the royal for the suppliesfor XIV, and and supplies Louis XIV, Louis came whichcame lawswhich fiscal laws severefiscal But the thesevere gentlemen. But by these these gentlemen. by aristocrats andaristocrats prohibitivelyexpensive, expensive,and in made madesupplies supplies prohibitively in the Instead,the office'Instead, positions of ofhigh high office. these positions longer sought sought these nolonger no paidaahigh high whopaid burghers, who richburghers, passed on onto torich were passed duties were duties price to them. obtainthem. toobtain price

BOTULISM. by causedby infection caused Serious infection BoruL,IsME - - Serious BOTLJLISM. BOTULISME anaerobic isClostridium Clostridium (the organism involved is organisminvolved bacteria (the anaerobic bacteria botulinum) which develop vegetables; fishor orvegetables; meat, fish incanned canned meat, develop in botulinum)which both ptomaine from ptomaine It differs differsfrom canned. It factorycanned. homeand and factory both home poisoning botulism bythe thebotulism affected by substances affected poisoningin in that the substances that the bacillus show food)show (ham, pork produce and cannedfood) pork produce othercanned and other bacillus (ham, no dohave haveaa attimes theydo timesthey putrefaction, although althoughat of putrefaction, no signs signs of peculiar peculiar sour smell. soursmel!' To properly onlyproperly of botulism botulism only occurrenceof the occurrence To avoid avoid the sterilised en aa even Vacuurn, ev used.Vacuum, musthe beused. foodsmust cannedfoods sterilisedcanned perfect anaerobes guarantee, because because anaerobes perfectone, notaasufficient sumcientguarantee, isnot one,is develop pickledin in Foodpickled ofoxygen. oxygen'Food absence of inthe theabsence evenin develop even chlorine percent ofsodium sodium centof least10 10per atleast should contain containat chlorine should chloride. pickling,its content itsacetic aceticacid acidcontent If vinegar is isused usedfor forpickling, chloride.Ifvinegar should 2 per percent. cent. bemore morethan than2 shouldbe Ali rancidsmell smell havinga arancid foodsand andthose thosehaving canned foods Allsuspect suspectcanned
137 137

roi du Bouche the Members Members ofof the Bouche du roi

BOUCHES

BOUCHEES
poissonsnourris Puis les nourrisassez assez loin de rade, Puis les poissons loin de lalarade, Dans cranx desrcifs: rdcifs:lelebeau beau rouget,l'orade, Dans lelecreux des rouget, 1'0 rade. pageldlicat, Lepagel delicat,leIesaint-pierre saint-pierreodorant. odorant, Le Gibierde demer parle mersuivi suivipar le loupdvorant, divorant, Gibier loup galinette,avec Enfin,la yeuxde avec ses dehogues, bogues, Enfin, la galine/le, ses yeux Etd'autres. d'autres,oublis parles oublidspar lesichthyologues ichthyologues Et poissonsque Finspoissons queNeplune, Neptune, aux auxfeux d'unciel cielardent, ardent, Fins feuxd'un Choisitdla jamaisau lafourchette etjamais autrident. trident. Choisit fourcherte et

BOUCI{EES - Name given to little patties made of puff BOUCHES Name given to little patties made of puff pastry baked -blind (empty) and filled with various mixtures. pastry baked blind (empty) and filled with various mixtures. It is said that these bouchCes were invented by Marie It is said that these bouches invented by Marie Leczinska, who, being very fondwere of her food, .adored' the Leczinska, who, being very fond of her food, 'adored' the vol-au-vent, and decided to eat it regularly. So the small, vol-au-vent, and decided to eat il regularly. 50 the small, individual vol-au-vent was created the 'bouchie ta reine,. was created - -the 'bouche dla reine'. individual Recipes vol-au-vent for the preparation of puffpastry bouchies will be - Recipes for the preparation of puff pastry bouches will be found under HORS-D'(EUVRE. found under HORS-D'UVRE. BOUDY - Good-looking apples which are rather mediocre BOUDY Good-looking apples which are rather mediocre in taste. They are used mainly for decorating fruit baskets, They are used mainly for decorating fruit baskets, in taste. but they can also be cooked. but they can also be cooked. BOUFFOIR - Bellows which butchers use to force air under BOUFFOIR Bellows which butchers use to force air under the skin and into the cellular tissues of carcases. the skin and into the cellular tissues of carcases. from BOUGRAS (Prigord cookery) -- Soup prepared from leeks, onions and potatoes, using waier in which 91bbage, leeks, cabbage, onions and potatoes, using water in which black puddings were cooked for stock. This soup, much puddings were cooked for stock. This soup, much black appreciated in Pdrigord, is made at Shrovetide, when pigs appreciated in Prigord, is made at Shrovetide, when pigs are slaughtered and the delicious p6rigord black puddinls the delicious Prigord black puddings are are slaughtered made. Here and is the recipe: areBring made. Here is the recipe: about 2 litres (3f pints, 4] pints) water to the boil Bring litres (3t pints, 4-i pints) water to the boil put about and into it2 the sliced, blanched heart of a curly green and put into it the blanched heart of a curly green cabbage, carrots, sliced, turnips, leeks, celery and quartered cabbage, carrots, turnips, leeks, celery and quartered olrions. Simmer slowly for 40 minutes. Add 2 large sliced (Jnions. Simmer slowly for 40 Add 2 large sliced potatoes, and continue cooking minutes. for a further 35 minutes. potatoes, cooking for a further 35 minutes. Aboutand 15 continue minutes before serving, drain some of the About 15 minutes before serving, drain some of the vegetables, cut into slices, and fry lightly. Sprinkle with flour cut into slices, and fry lightly. Sprinkle with f10ur vcgelables, and a little stock, and add to the soup. (This is calledfricassde and a little stock, add to tbe soup. (This is calledfricasse in P6rigord andis and added to most soups.) Bring to the boil and in Prigord is added to most soups.) Bring to the boil and pour into a and tureen over thin slices of bread. pour into a tureen over thin slices ofbread. speciality is is - This Mediterranean speciality BOUILLABAISSE -prepared all along the south coast of Francs from Cap prepared ail along the south coast of France from Cap Cebbre to Menton, each having its special flavour ani Cebre to Menton, each having ilS special flavour and recipe. Connoisseurs consider that only authentic recipe. Connoisseurs consider that the the only authentic bouillabaisse is to be found in the region between Marseilles bouillabaisse is to be found in the region between Marseilles and Toulon, though the varieties at Nice and Menton and Toulon, though the varieties at Nice and Menton come come a close second. a close second. Legend attributes the invention of this dish to Venus, who, the invention ofthis dish to Venus, who, it Legend is said,attributcs prepared it for her husband, Vulcan. Mry, it is said,gives prepared it for her husband, Vulcan. M6ry, however, the credit to the abbess of a Marseillis however, gives the credit to the abbess of a Marseilles convent: convent: 'Pour le vendredi maigre,unjour, certaine abbesse 'Pour le vendredi maigre. un jour. certaine abbesse D'un couvent marseillais cria Ia bouille-abaisse., D'un couvent marseillais cra la bouille-abaisse.' 'f9r u Friday abstinence meal, one day, a certain abbess 'For Friday abstinence meal, one day, a certain abbess Of a a Marseilles nunnery created the Of a Marseilles nunnery created the blouillabaisse., bouillabaisse.' He then goes on to say what a rcal bouillabarse is like. and He then goes on to say what a reaJ bouillabaisse is Iike, and what fish should go into the making of it: what fish should go into the making of it:
Ecoutez bien ceci, vieux cuisiniers novices, Ecoutez bien ceci, vieux cuisiniers novices, Qui faites des homards avec des icrevisses, Quifaites desqu'on homard avec des crevisses, Et qui croyez peut, chez Potel ou Chabot, Et qui croyez plat qu'on peut, chez Potel ou Chabot, Traduire grec mon en tranches de turbot. Traduire mon plat grec en tranches de turbot. I'heure est enfin vmue oit notre capitale L'heure est enfin venue o notre capitale joindre Pant d ses banquets Ia table orientale, Peut joindre ses banquets la table orientale, Et donner arx gourmands, chez le restaurateur, El donner aux gourmands, chez le restauraleur, Un ragoitt marseillais et non un plat mmteur.

BOUGRAS (P6rigord cookery)

Soup prepared

Hearken to to me, me,old oldcooks cooksand and new new Hearken All those those who who make makelobsters lobstersout prawns outof ofprawns Ali potelor And think think that thatone onecan, can,Chez Chez Potel orChabot, Chabot. And Translate my mydish dish into into slices slicesof of turbot. turbot. Translate The hour hour has hascome come at atlast, last, when whenour ourcapital capital Tbe Can add add oriental oriental dishes dishes to to her her banquets banquets Can givethe And give gourmands in the gourmands in aa restaurant restaurant And A real real MarseiJles Marseilles ragol, ragofit, and and not not aa lying lying dish. dish. A

For this this Phocaean Phocaean dish, dish, accomplished accomplished without without fault, fault, For Above al!, all, is is indispensable indispensable the the rascasse, rascasse, Above 'Tis lrue, true, a a very very common common fish. fish. 'Tis Served on grill alone, on a a grill alone, il it does does not not find find favour, favour, Served But in in a a bouillabaisse bouillabaisse it it does does exude exude But A marvellous marvellous aroma aroma on on which which success success depends. depends. A The rascasse rascasse feeds feeds in in crevasses, crevasses, in quicksinds, in q The uicksands, In bays bays shaded shaded with with laurel laurel and and myrtle myrtle bushes bushes ln Or around around rocks rocks covered covered with with f10wering flowering thyme. thyme. Or
Then the the fish fish which which feed feed away away from from the the roads, Then Among the the reefs: reefs: the the beauliful beautiful red red mullet mullet and and orades, orades. Among The delicate delicate sea sea brearn, bream, the the sweet-smelling sweet-smelling saint-pierre, The game escaping Sea game escaping from from the the devouring devouring sea sei perch, Sea perch, And galinette, with And finally, finally, the the galinette, with its its boops'eyes, boops' eyes, And others, forgotten by the And others, forgotten by the ichthyologists, ichthyologists, Fine fish, of a blazing sky, Fine fish, that that Neptune, Neptune, in in the the fire of Spikes a fork, and never on a fork, and never on a trident. Spikes on

BOUILLABAISSE

This Mediterranean

Un ragot marseillais et non un plat menteur. ce plat phocien, accompli sans difaut, ce plat phocen, accompli sans dfaut, Indispensablement, mAme avant tout, ilfaut lndpensablement. avant tout, ilfaut La rascasse, poisson,mme certes, des plus vulgaires. La rascasse, poisson, des plus vulgaires. IsolC wr un gril, on ne certes, I'estime guire, Isol dans sur un gril, on ne l'estime gure, Mais la bouillabaisse aussitbt il rdpand Mais {kms la bouillabaisse aussitt il rpand De merveilleux parfums d'oil Ie succis ddpend. Derascasse, merveilleux parfums d'o le succs dpend. La nouruie aux crevasses des syrtes, La rascasse, nourrie aux crevasses des syrtes, Dans les golfes couverts de lauriers et de myrtes, Dans les golfes couverts de lauriers et de myrtes, Ou devant un rocher garni de fleurs de thym. Ou devant un rocher garni defleurs de thym.

which which brings soup nearer nearer to to the the chaudrde chaudre (q.v.) (g.v.) or the the cotriade cOlriade brings this this soup (q.v.). (g.v.). At At Sbte Ste a a garlic-flavoured garlic-ftavoured fish fish soup soup is is made made which which is is somewhat somewhal similar similar to 10 the the Flemish Flernish waterzootje walerzoolje (q.v.). (q.v.). Ingredients The Provence Provence botuillabaisse, bouillabaisse, Ingredients for for bouillabaisse bouillabaisse .. The or, or, more more correctly, correctly, the the Marseilles Marseilles bouillabaisse, bouillabaisse, is is made made of ofthe the following chapon, saint-pierre, saint-pierre, conger conger eel, eel, following fish: fish: rascasse, rascasse, chapon, lophius lophius (angler (angler fish), fish), red red mullet, mullet, rouquier, rouquier, whiting, whiting, sei sea perch, perch, spiny crabs and and other otbershellfish. sbellfish. (Many (Manyof ofthe the fish fish used used spinylobster, lobster, crabs for bouillabaisse, such such as as the the traditional traditional rascasse, rascasse, are are not not for bouillabadsse, found except found except in in the the Mediterranean. Mediterranean. These These are are virtually virtually unknown unknown in in England England and and America America but but gurnet, gurnet, mackerel, mackerd, small srnall turbot, turbot, fresh fresh tunny, tunny, perch, perch, pike, pike, grayling, grayling, trout, trout, eeleelpout poutand andvarious variousrock rockfish fish can canbe besubstituted substitutedififnecessary.) necessary.) All should be becut eut into into uniform-sized uniform-sized piecei. pieces. To To Ail these these fish lish should make makeenough enoughbouillabaisse bouillabaissefor for 88to to l0 10persons personsyou you will will need need about about33kg. kg.(6+lb.) (6i-lb.)fish fishand andshellfish. shellfish. Put Put200 200g.Q g. (7 oz., oz., l| licups) cups)chopped chopped onions, onions,33large largeseeded seeded and chopped and chopped tomatoes, tomatoes, 44 pounded pounded garlic garlic cloves, c1oves, i a sprig sprig of of fenne!and and33sprigs sprigsof ofbruised bruisedparsley, parsley,aasprig sprigof ofthyme, thyme,aabay bay -fenlel leaf leafand and a a pieoe piece of ofdry dry orange orange peel peel into into aa large-casserole. large casserole. Add Addthe theshellfish, shellfish,then thenthe thefirm-fleshed firm-fleshedfish. fish. Sprinkle Sprinklewith with22dl. dl.($ (tpint, pint,scant seantcup) cup)olive oliveoil oiland andseason season with and freshly freshly ground groundpepper. pepper. Add Add aagood goodpinch pinch of of with salt saltand powdered powdered saffron saffron and and enough enough water water to to cover coyer the the fish fish completely. cornpletely. Boil on,for for77to to88minutes. minutes.Then Thenadd add Boilbriskly, briskly,with withaalid lidon, the thefish fishwith withdelicate delicateflesh, flesh,such suchas aswhiting whitingand andred redmullet, mullet, and time bouillabar'sse does andcook cooktogether. together.Total Totalcooking cooking timeof of bouillabaisse does not exceed to minutes. not exceed14 14 to15 15 minutes.
138

to to bouillabaissq bouillabaisse, and and often often the the saffrori saffru<i is is omitted, omittcd,

In ln some some regions, regions, notably notably in in Perpignan, Perpignan, potatoes potatoes are are added added

138

BOUILLABAISSE BOUILLABAISSE

(Scarnati) bouillabaisse (Scarnali) for bouillabaisse lngredients for Ingredients

the with the and serve serve with of bread, bread, and over slices slices of the soup soup over Strain Strain the chopped with chopped fish with and fish soup and Sprinkle soup shellfish. Sprinkle and shellfish. fish and fish used is used marette, is called marelle, special bread, bread, called parsley. In In Marseilles, Marseilles, special parsley. purpose. for this this purpose. for points is is essential points the essential of the one of good bouillabaisse, bouillabaisse, one make good To To make soup in the the soup results in possible, which which results quickly as as possible, it as as quickly to cook cook it to right consistency. consistency. the right having having the to not to ought not bouillabaisse ought dish, bouillabaisse a fisherman's fisherman's dish, Originally Originally a fish. of fish. cuts of cheaper cuts the cheaper only the lobster, only contain contain lobster, This bouillabouilla(Provengal cookery) cookery) -- This borgne (Provenal Bouillabaisse Bouillabaisse borgne in Provence. Provence. is called called l'aigo-sau-d'iou l'aigo'sau-d ion in baisse baisse is prepared as as fish stock stock prepared in fish potatoes slowly slowly in Cook sliced sliced potatoes Cook parisienne d la la parisienne Bouillabaisse for Bouillabaisse recipe for described in the the recipe described in poachfresh fresheggs, eggs, potatoesare done, poach are done, (see below). the potatoes When the (see below). When them. tobreak break them. not to careDot taking care stock, taking in the thestock, by one, one,in one oneby and bread,and of bread, slicesof over slices tureenover into aa tureen soupinto thesoup Pour Pour the dish. another dish. onanother poached eggs eggson the poached potatoesand and the the potatoes arrange arrange the same atthe thesame dishes at two dishes thetwo parsleyand andserve serve the with parsley Sprinkle Sprinkle with time. time. as Preparedas MoRUE - - Prepared DEMORUE BouILLABAIssE DE Cod bouillabaisse. BOUILLABAISSE Cod bouillabaisse. rather (sebelow), isaastew stewrather thisis parisienne (see below),this Bouillabaisse Bouillabaisse hla laparisienne COD. preparation, see seeCOD. ofpreparation, method of For method than soup.For thanaasoup. DEL'OCAN I'oc6AN BouILLABAISSE DE Ocean bouillabaisse. BOUILLABAISSE Ocean bouillabaisse. Mediterranean essentially aaMediterranean Although thebouillabaisse bouillabafsseisisessentially Althoughthe coast' theAtlantic Atlantic coast. onthe madeon kindof bouillabaisse isismade dish, ofbouillabaisse dish,aakind potatoes (generous 1Ilb.) lb.)potatoes g.(generous 500g. onions, choppedon Fry ions, 500 Fry55big bigchopped (jcup) cup) in66tablespoons tablespoons leeksin choppedleeks and44chopped intoslices, cut cutinto slices,and little (scantt * cup) Adda alittle cup)butter. butter.Add oil and33tablespoons tablespoons (scant oiland garlic leaf,44c1oves, cloves,44garlic bayleaf, fennel,a abay andfennel, savoryand thyme, thyme,savory
139 139

chopped tomatoes and a peeled and and chopped 4 peeled stalks, 4 2 celery celery stalks, cloves, 2 cloves, tornatoes and a pinch of saffron. of saffron. pinch eel, 3 red mullets' I conger conger eel, 4 whitings, whitings, 1 slices 4 into slices Cut into Cut 3 red mullets, lobsters or 2 2 small sardines, fresh a few mackerels. 3 3 mackerels, a few fresh sardines, 2 small lobsters or 2 into chunks' prawns, cut Bay Dublin some and crabs, crabs, and sorne Dublin Bay prawns, cut into chunks. a little cayenne pepper and add pepper and and a with salt, salt, pepper Season with little cayenne pepper and add Season the fish. to cover cover the water to and water wine and white wine dry white enough dry enough fish. generous quart) mussels (lf pints, I litre cook Separately, Separately, cook 1 litre (lt pints, generous quart) mussels and add the mussels, and shells and the shells discard the done,discard when done, and, when and, add the mussels, and to the boil Bring to fish'Bring in, to to the the fish. cooked in, were cooked they were liquor they the liquor the the boil minutes. gently for for30 30minutes. andsirnrner simmer gently and the fish and Strain the goldenbrown. brown' Stran until golden of bread bread until Fry slices slices of Fry fish and the fish on a Arrangethe bread- Arrange fried bread. thefried over the pour the liquor over the liquor pour fish on a soup. as the time the same at and serve dishand serve at the same tirne as the soup. separate separate dish -Bouillabaisse 150 g. (5 oz',, Fry briskly briskly150 parisienne - - Fry laparisienne Bouillabaisse i la g. (5 oz., (3 oz-, * cup) chopped' g. 75 and onion chopped lf cups) I-!- cups) chopped on ion and 75 g. (3 oz., t cup) chopped pint, I cup) oil, l+dl. dl.(t parts)in inI-t (usingonly white parts) thewhite only the $ pint, leeks(using leeks tdl. cup) oil, (1 pint' with66dl. Moisten with colour.Moisten tocolour. themto all,owing them without allowing without (1 pint, generous (lf pints' 1 litre add andadd 1 litre (lt pints, generous wine, and white wine, 2| cups) cups) white 21 peeled, seeded and chopped stock44peeled, tothis thisstock quartf water. Addto water.Add quart) seeded and chopped andaa thymeand ofthyme sprigof garliccl cloves, crushedgarlic tomatoes, 44crushed tomatoes, oves, aasprig pinch of goodpinch pepper and salt, with leaf. Season bayleaf. Season with salt, pepper and aagood of bay heads and trimmings anyheads stockany tothis thisstock Addto powdered saffron. saffron.Add powdered and trimmings for 20 briskly for 20 Cookbriskly dish.Cook foranother anotherdish. intendedfor n.nintended bffish of fine strainer. a pass through and minutes minutes and pass through a fine strainer. weever, eel,weever, congereel, whiting,conger gurnet,red redmullet, mullet,whiting, upgurnet, Cutup Cut deep flatin ina adeep laythem themfiat andlay chunks,and intochunks, lobsterinto spinylobster andspiny and salt withsalt top, seasonwith ontop, washed,on wellwashed, pan.Place mussels,weil Placemussels, pan. season parsley and oil. withchopped choppedparsley pepperand andsprinkle sprinklewith andpepper and and oil.

BOUILLANT BOUILLANT
Cookbriskly for15 brisklyfor 15minutes. minutes.Add Add33tablespoons (scant tablespoons(seant! Cook cup)kneaded kneaded butter. butter. pourthe Arrange the thefish fishin rnaatimbale (q.v.).Pour timbale(q.v.). thesoup soupinto into another timbale timbaleover grilledslices overgril1ed slicesof ofbread. bread. another Sardine booillaooisse bouillabaisse. BourLLABArssE DE DESARDINES SARDTNEs - _ Frv Sardine ..BOUlLLABAlSSE choppedon onion and2leeks 2leeksin inoil. oil.Add peeled,seeded Addaapeeled, seeded and 1Ichoppcd ion and chopped_tomato, poundedgarlic garliccl cloves, bayleaf, leaf,JIsprig tomato, 22pounded oves, 1Ibay sprig of fennel and andaasmall pieceof smallpiece oforange orange peel.Moisten Moisten with *iti' pints, li pints) water. lt pints) water.Season Seasoi withsalt, pepper and I litre (l$ pints, salt, pepper and a pinch of ofsaffron. saffron. Add Add66sliced potatoes,and sliced potatoes, andcook cookwith the with the lidOn pan. on the thepan. When the potatoes are nearly done,arrange (2+lb.) arrange 1 I kg. kg.(2-1lb.) -When the potatoes are nearly done, cleaned, scaled scaled and and washed washed fresh freshsardines sardines-on t[em,- and ani cJeaned, On them,

cook for for 88 minutes. minutes. Sprinkle Sprinkle with parsley and with parsley and serve serve cook separately. Strairi Strairi the the bouillabaisse bouillabaisseover over slices slices of of bread laid bread laid in a deep dish. Spinact bouillabaisse bouilta6giou (Provenal cookery). BOUILLABAISSE BourLLABArssE @rovengalcookery). o'fprNARos -- Here Here is is aa recipe contributed contributed by great by the the great D'PINARDS master of Provengal CUISine, cuisine, J. B. Reboul; Reboul: mas ter of 'Pick over over and wash (2| lb.) wash 1 I kg. kg. (2* lb.) spinach, spinach, cook cook for for 5 'Pick 5 minutes in in boiling boiling water, water, then then dip dip into into cold cold water water and and drain. drain. minutes Press with with the the hands hands to to extract extract aIl all waler, water, and and chop chop the the Press spinach. spinach. (3 tablespoons, 'Put -1 dl. (3 tablespoons, scant scant I cup) cup) oil into an oil into ] dl. an earthenearthen'Put ware casserole, casserole, add add a a chopped chopped onion, previously fried onion, previously fried ware lightly without without browning, browning, and and the the spinach. spinach. Cook Cook on on a a low low lightly fire for for 5 5 minutes, minutes, stirring stirring al! all the the time. 6re 'When the the spinach is is searoo, seared, add add 5 5 sliced sliced waxy potatoes. - 'When pepper and Season with with salt, pepper and a a little little saffron. saffron. Moiiten with Season (l| pints, I litre litre (I~ pints, generous generous quart) quart) boiling boiling water, water, add Z ! chopped garlic garlic cloves cloves and and a a sprig sprig of of fennel, fennel, and and cook, covered with with a a lid, lid, on on a a low low flame. When the the'potatoes are cooked, poach poach 4 eggs in When potatoes are in the pan.'

BOUILLANT puff pastry pastry patty, Small pufr patty, filled with a BOUILLANT fi.lled with - Smal1 (q.v.) of salpicon (q.v.) of chicken, chicken, served served very hot hot as an horsa an salpicon (See HORS-D'(EUVRE, d'euvre. (See and rissoles.) rissoles.) d'uvre. HORS-D'UVRE, Small patties alUl
BOUILLE BOUILLE - Vessel Vesse) used used for for transporting transporting milk.

BOLILLETURE BOUlLLETURE a or BOUILLITURE BOUILLITURE (Anjou (Anjou cookery) cookery) Matelote Malelote (q.v.), made made mainly of of eel, eel, moistened moistencd with with red wine, wine, thickened with with kneaded butter, hutter, garnished with wilh
mushrooms, mushrooms, little !iUle onions anions and and - a a local touch - with prunes. prunes. This This rnatelorc male/Ole is is served served garnished garnished with slices of of toast. toast.

turnips, turnips, leeks, parsnips,onion, onion,celery, garlic,c1oves. celery,garlic, cloves. To Toclarify clarify bouillon, whisk750 (lf lb.) 750g. g.(li lb.)lean leanmeat, meat,22leeks leeks cut cutup upinto intosmall smalldice, dice,and andaafresh freshegg eggwhite whitein inaadeep pan. deeppan. (4|pints, Add A.dd2t 2+litres litres(41 pints,5t pints)lukewann 5{pints) hk;warmbouillon. bouillon. ConContinue tinueto towhisk whiskthe thecontents contents of ofthe the panuntil untilititboils. boils.Lower Lowerthe the heat heatand andsimmer simmerfor forI! lj hours. hours. Strain through through aaclotho cloth. Bouillon Bouillon de (weddiry sonp) deDOce noce(wedding soup) (prigord cookery).-@6rigord cookery) Thi-s This Prigord Prigord clear clearsoup soup s is reallyaaversion version of ofollapodrida oilapodrida (q.v.).Four (q.v.). . beef, Four kil1ds kinds of of meat meatare are used: beef,aaveal vealknuckle, knuckle, aa sluffed stuffed chicken chickenand andaaturkey. turkey. Ali All these these are arecooked cooked in instock stock tlavoured flavoured with withvegetables, vegetables, together together with withSwiss Swiss chard. chard. Add Add onion, onion, frie<.! fried in in lard lard until until golden, and golden, andvermicelli. vermicelli. pnCRALES Cere al bouillons. Cereal bouillons BOUILLONS BourLLoNs DE cfnf,c,rEs - - These These are rich are rich in in assimilable assimilable minerai mineral substances substances and and soluble soluble nutritive nutritive matter matter which, which, being responsible for being responsible for giving vegetable vegetable embryo eqlbryo the the nutriment nutriment necessary necessary for for growth, have a heneficial beneficial effect effect on on growing children. children. Boil Boil 1 I tablesl,oc,n tablespoon each of wheat, oats, barley,tye,maize maize and and bran bran for for aa long long lime time in in 3 3litres litres (5f pints, 6| pints) water water until until the the liquid liquid has has boiled boiled down down to I liiri to llitre (ltpints, generous quart}. Strain, and and add add salt salt and and sugar. euart): Sirain, Herb bouillon (stock). (stock). BOUILLON BourLLoN AUX Arx HERBES rrERDEs -- Wash (l| oz.) 40 g. (Ii a0 g. oz.) fresh fresh sorrel (* oz.) sorrel leaves, leaves, 20 g. (~ 20 g. oz.) fresh fresh lettuce lettuce leaves, (* oz.) g. H leaves, !O l0 g. oz.) fresh fresh chervil chervil leaves leaves and and cook cook in in 1 I litre litre (If, (1 ~ pints, generous quart) quart) water water until until done. done. Add pinch of Add a a pinch of sea sea salt salt and 1 I teaspoon fresh fresh butter. Cook little longer, Cook a a liule longer, and and strain. strain. Vegetable Vegetable bouillon (stock). BOUILLON bouillon (stock). BourLLoN DE or rEcururs Vegetarian Vegetarian cookery cookery books give many recipes for these. books give Clea r vegetable vege ta ble so u ps can e ts, Clear soups can be be used used in children,s d diets, partially replacing partially replacing milk; milk; and and in in diets diets for for invalids. invalids. With With tapioca tapioca or or vermicelli vermicelli added, added, these these soups soups acquire acquire more more nutritive value. Dr. Leclerc gives a a vegetable stock for children: Boil 50 g. _ (2 oz.) carrOIS, ffi g. !-IV,."",,",,.. .>, 15 g. (* oz.\ turnipi, or) carrots, g.Q* oz.) potatoes, 9 6 g. g. Q Cl; oz.) dried peas and and 6 e. g. G oz.) in 3 3 litres oz.) dried beans in lities (5| pints, 6| (st 6t pints) water in n a a covered covered stockpot sLOckpot for 4 hours. hours. for 4 Boil Boil down down to to I 1 litre litre (l| Oi pints, pints, generous quart) and and add generous quart) add seant teaspoon salt. salt. scant teaspoon Rice flour flom or other other cereals can cau be be added added to [0 this this stock. stock, or or it it used as a basis for other other soups. soups. can be used

BOUILLON BOUILLON - Little restaurants restaurants which which serve serve meals meals at at a a
fixed fixed price; price; the the menu menu is is usually usually limited. limted.

BOUILLI BOUILLI - Abbreviation Abbreviation of of boeuf boeuf bouilli, bouilli, i.e. i.e. boiled boled beef. becf.
For For recipes, recipes, see see BEEF, BEEF, Boited Boiled beef. beef.

BOUILLON AVEUGLE AVEUGLE - Colloquial Colloquial expression expression applied applicd BOUILLON 10 mediocre mediocre clear c1ear soup when when small small spots spots of of fat, fat, called eyes, to called eyes,

ments. ments.

Plain Plain white white stock stock serves serves as as a a basis basis for for all aH soups, clear and thickened. thickened. It Tt is is also also used used for for making making white white or or biown sauces. sauces. Stock Stock is is a a basic basic liquid Iquid obtained obtained by by prolonged prolonged boiling bailing of ofmeat meat and and vegetables vegetabJes in in slightly slightly salted sa\ted water. water. Bouillon Bouillon is is one one of of the the basic basc elements elements of of French French cookery, both both in in home home kitchens kitchens and and in in the the most most sumptuous sumptuous establisfie.~[.~nllsn Clear Clear soup soup is is a a food food of of mediocre mediocre nutritive nutritive value value (which (which

BOLILLON BOUlLLON - Stock Stock or or broth. broth.

cannot be he seen seen on on the the surface. surface. Many of of these these soups, howhowcannot ever, have have the the spots spots of of fat fat carefully skimmed skimmed off before before ever, serving. servrng.

object object of of clarifying bouillon bouillon is is to to make make ordinarv ordinary bouillon bouillon more more limpid; limpid; it also improves the the taste. taste. It It is s done done with with white white of of egg egg and and lean lean beef and and vegetables vegetables cut CUl into into small sma!! dice. di.Bauillon Bouillonclarified c1arified in inthis thisway wayis iscalled called consommi. consomm. In Indomestic domestccookery, cookery,stock stockis isserved scrvedwithout wthoutclarification. clarification. Served_ Servedas asaasoup soupafter afteradding various garnishes (principally (prlncipally some ofpasta), pas ta),ititis ismade with beef and andfowl, fowl, carrotj, carrots, sorneform form of

can, can,however, howcver, be beincreased increased by bythe the addition addition ofpasta ofpastaproducts, products, bread bread and and various various substances), substances), but hut an an excellent.quickener' excellent 'quickener' of ofdigestion, digestion, and and a a stimulant stimulant which which tones tones up up the the heart hcart and and slightly SOUpS ind BROTHS.) slightlyraises raisesthe theblood bloodpressure. pressure.(See (SeeSOUPSand BROTHS.) Clarificatim Clarlflcatioo of of bouillon bouillon. coNsould CONSOMM BLANc BLANC srMpLE SIMPLE - The The

layers of offine coated with with butter butter cream. cream. fine sponge coated term is is also applied applied to to an an iced iced sweet, sweet, rnade made of ofbombe bombe The term ice-cream mixture mixture set set in ina a round round mould, mould, and and covere.d covered with with ice-cream whipped whipped cream creambefore before serving serving(see (seeSNOWBALL). SNOWBALL).

BOULE BOULE-DE-NEIGE - Name Name given given to to edible edible agaric. agaric. DE-NEIGE BOULE BOULE-DE-NEIGE (Ptls...~rie) Cakes in the shape shape of of DE-NEIGE (Pfltisserie) - Cakes in the balls, dipped dipped in in whipped cream. cream. They They are are usually usually made made of of balls,

BOULEDE DESON SON('Bran Ball,) Bail')-- Slang Slangterm term used used to todescribe describe BOULE ration bread, bread, called so so because because of of the the relatively relatively high high proproration portion ofbran bran which which went went into into its its preparation. preparation. portion of BOULETTE -- Dish Dish prepared prepared from from some sorne mixture mixture (force(forceBOULETTE meat, hash hash or or pur6e) pure) which which is is given a spherical form. form. meat, Boulettes Bouleues are are often onen made made from from pieces of lefi-over meat or fish. They They are are dipped dipped in n egg egg and breadcrumbs and and fried fried in n fish.

deepfat. fat.Or Orthey theyare arebrushed brushedwith withbutter butteror orlard lardand andcooked cooked deep inthe theoven. oven. in
BOUQUET. BoueuEr BOUQUET DE DE vrN veN -- Wine Wine bouquet bouquet is is due due to to BOUQUET.
140 140

BOWELS
ethers ethersand andessences essencesor oressential essentialoils, oils,which whichare areextremely extremely release essences these ofevaporation process InInthe volatile. volatile. the process of evaporation these essences release wine. each toto pertaining aromas multiple aromas pertaining each wine. the multiple the aa wine which elements The Thefour four eJements whichdetermine determinethe thequality qualityof of wine are are the the colour, col our, the the bouquet, bouquet, fruitiness fruitiness and and vinosity vinosity (the (the right in the quality lies wine). the and flavour flavour andstrength strengtbof of the wine).Its Its quality lies in the right these proportion proportionof of theseelements' elements.
BOUQUET GARNI GARNI -- Aromatic Aromatic herbs herbs or orplants plants tied lied totoBOUQUET gether-in gether inaalittle littlefaggot. faggot.The Theusual usualherbs'are herbs areparsley, parsley,ttryp' thyme

BOWELS

it in sDoons (* cup) flour. When the paste is smooth, spread spaons (t cup) flour. When the paste is smooth, spread it in u'u-utrctlf pii aitn, indent 7 or 8 holes with a finger and-pu!1

a buttered pie dish, indent 7 or 8 holes a finger and 30 a forput oven a slow inwilh of frish butter in each. Bake oiece Bake in a slow oyen for 30 piece of fresh butter in each. serving' before minutes. Sprinkle with sugar minutes. Sprinkle with sugar before serving.

BoURGEoIsE(ALA)_Namewhichisappliedtovarious BOURGEOISE ( LA) Name which is applied to various

to large pieces of braised meat, preparcd d.la ai.n.i."ioly dishes, mainly ta large pieces of always braised include meat, prepared la a garnish dishes Tieie iii'ui"osiotse. "of mode bourgeoise. These dishes always include a of garnish lean
geoise.)

carrots, small onions and large dice composed of carrots, small on ions and large dice of lean "ompot"a (See GARNISHES; BEEF, Top rump d la bourbacon. bacon. (See GARNISHES; BEEF, Top rump la bourgeoise.) BOLTRGUEIL - Wine produced from the Cabernet franc BOlTRGUEIL - Wine produced from the Cabernet franc gtup" fni"tnamed 'Bret6n' in the region)' It has a delicious grape (nicknamed 'Breton' in the region). It has a delicious flavour and, generally speaking, is best d.*"\ i".pU"ity raspberry flavour and, generally speaking, is best drunk yo.rng. it is an excellent accompaniment to the regional young. Il is an excellent accompaniment to the regional dishes and to the goat cheeses. dishes and to the goat cheeses. Saint-Nicolas-de-Borgueil' The neighboori-ng appellation, -similar '*in"t ofa appellation, The neighbouring Saint-Nicolas-dc-Borgueil, but usually more character' ptoA""". produces wines of a simiJar character, but usually more robust and with a distinct tang. robust and witb a distinct tango (A LA) See the beginning of the BOURGUIGNONNE BOURGUIGNONNE ( LA) - See the beginning of the article on BURGUNDY. article on BURG UN DY. Type of long, handleless basket used to BOURRICIIE BOURRICHE - Type of long, handleless basket used to transport fruit, game, oysters, etc. transport fruit, game, oysters, etc. (Provengd cookerv) - ryt I tr:g'\zilb') various BOURRIDE BOURRIDE (provenal cookery) - Put 1 kg. (2;} lb.) various water' pints) a small fish in iarge pan with 2liires (3| pints-, 4f smaU fish in a large pan with 2 litres (3i pints, 4t pints) water, chopped finely all - ano cloves garlic 2 onions, 2 tomatbei, 2 2 onions, 2 tomatoes, 2 garlic cloves - ail finely chopped - and a bouquit garni (q.v.). AOa a Httle bitter glang: neet, sgX191a bouquet garni (q.v.). Add a little bitter orange peel, sailron' seasoning, 2iablJspooni (3tablespoons) olive oil and some ing,2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) olive oil and sorne sa/fron. goil fast minutes. foits Boil fast for 15 minutes. the stock through a sieve, pressing the vegetablesStrain Strain the stock through a sieve, pressing the vegetables Bind the stock iith 2 egg yolks mixed with ailloli through. through. Bind the stock with 2 egg mixed with slices on ailloli tureen a soup pour into yolks and lightly i;;.t."si--er (q.v.). Simmer lightly and pour into a soup tureen on slices fish. the with Serve of bread. of bread. Serve with the fish. (Wine) - Name given in the past to spiced wine' BOURRU BOURRU (Wine) Name given in the past to spiced wine. u hogshead of the wine, it was prepared by ^mixing For a hogshead of the(lf wine, it generous was prepared by a very quart) ofmixing pints, I litre with white winE white wine with 1 litre (Ji pints, generous quart) of a very flowers' elder and wheat strong concoction of strong concoction of wheat and eIder flowers. No-wadays new wine is often called vin bounu' Nowadays new wine is often calied vin bourru.

and bay bayleaf, leaf,and and l[eir theirproportions proportionsare areadusted adjusted according according ind

leaf leafmust must be he taken taken into into account account and and these Ihese aromatics aromatics used used sparingly. Bouquets Bouquels garnis garnL can can be be small, small, medium medium or or large' large, sparingly. and rJi for certain certain kinds kinds of of dishes dishes they Ihey can can include include basil, basil, ""a celery, celery, chervil, chervil, tarragon, tarragon, burnet, bu met, rosemary, rosemary, savory, savory, etc' etc. They are are removed removed from from stews stews and and sauces sauces before before serving' serving. They

to to the the naturi nature of ofthe the dish' dish. The The strength strength of ofthyme Ihyme and and bay bay

BOUQUETIDRE BOUQUETIRE (A ( LA) LA) - Garnish Garnish used used for for meat meat dishes, dishes, compoled composed of of various variou~ vegetables vegetables disposed disposed in in bouquets' bouquets. (See (See GARNISHES.) GARNISHES.)

BOURBONNAIS BOURBONNAIS - Bourbonnais, Bourbonnais, ancient ancient province province of of France, France, forms forms the the whole whole of of the the dCpartement dpartement of of Allier Altier and and a a

and mineral and of minerai administration of geneialadministration 1605 aa general in 1605 tp.t-uO. In spread. became Vichy and France, in created was waters medicinal medicinal waters was created in France, and Vichy became 1648' in 1648. itsheadquarters headquarters in ils seventhesevengrewduring during the water grew Vichywater ofVichy pbpularityof Thepopularity The protecled its XIV protected Louis XIV centuries. Louis eighieenthcenturies. andeighteenth teenthand teenth 1ts who S6vign6, who deSvign, Madame de ofMadame lettersof theletters fortune,lnd earlyfortune. and the early riseto to itsrise completedilS 1677,completed and1677, 1676 n1676 curein foraacure th"r"for *"nt there went and hospital' Vichyhospital. theVichy endowed the XVendowed LouisXV 1716 In17 success.In success. 16 Louis undergone having undergone Victoire,having andVictoire, Adelaideand aunts,Adelaide XVI'saunts, LouisXVl's Louis to replace establishment to newestablishment builta anew treatment,built successful treatment, successful lMaison du Roi'. In 1853, the replace mineral modest iir,existing modest 'Maison du Roi'. In 1853. the minerai the "*irting company' grantedto to was concessionwas waters waters concession granted aa company. stews; andSiews; matelotesand Freshwatermaleloles specialities- Freshwater Qufinary Culinary specialities pies;sheeps' shee,ps' meat Moulinmeal andMoulin Montlugonand pike irCie; pike d lata crme; Montluon pies; 't6ngues locally; oyonnade goosestew called srew turnips;goose withturnips; called oyonnade locally; longues with rather millias,rather ormil/ias, pie;mihior mihior potato grattons;potato pompeaux aux pompe grallons; pie; or pantarts; cheny Languedoc; made one the simitartoto similar the one made inin Languedoc; cherry tarts; pangdteaux; pear locally;pear sauciaux called are which cakes cakes which are called sal.lciaux locally; gteaux; tarte and brioche; pie; Gannat potato of kind gounerue, gounerre, aa kind of potata pie; Gannat brioche; and tarte

part of of Puy-de-D6me, Puy-de-Dme, Creuse Creuse and and Cher' Cher. small part small The The 'Bourbonnichons' 'Bourbon nichons' (i.e. (i.e. natives natives of of the the district) district) are are generally generally hearty hearty eaters eaters and and enjoy enjoy good good country country dishes' dishes. ftighest'quality Highest quality beef, beef, mutton mutton and and por\ pork are are produced produced here' here. Ttie The riven ri vers and ponds ponds abound abound in in succulent succulent fish: 6sh: carp, carp, pike' pike, eel, cooked m en matelote malelote (q.v') (q.v.) or or an au blar bleu (q'v')' (q.v.). eel, which wbich are iooked game' good The streams streams are full full of of trout trout and and crayfish' crayfish. Very Very good game, both ground and winged, and and excellent excellent poultry, poultry, particularly particularly both The vegetable district. The g*",-ut" geese, are also foundln found in this this district. vegetable gardens gardens and fruit' choice vegetables produce choice orchards produce ind the orchaids and vegetables and fruit. Beverages-ThewinesofBourbonnaishaveaninteresting Beverllges - The wines of Bourbonnais have an interesting Saint-Pourgainof Saint-Pourainwines of ros6 wines and ros red and white, red bouquet. The white, bouquet.ihe V.D.Q.Sas V.D.Q.S. classified as are classified sur-Sioule sur-Sioule are From famous' From are famous. Bourbonnais are of Bourbonnais waters of mineral waters The minerai The watering-place' a famous famous watering-place. has been been a Vichy has immemorial Vichy time immemorial time In Romans' In the Romans. to the known to well known were weil waters were mineral waters hot minerai Its hot Its which castellany, a of seat was.the Vichy Ages, the Middle the Middle Ages, Vichy was the seat of a castellany, which -n nU Bourbon' of Bourbon. house of the house I of of the Pierre 1 by Pierre acquired in J was acquired 344 by was monastery a Celestine Celestine monastery founded a l41l founded in 1411 II, in Louis Il, His son, son, Louis His its of its virtue of the virtue propagated the who propagated monks, who is 10 these monks, it is to these and it and wars' religious wars, The religious fame' The its fame. owes its partly owes Vichy partly that Vichy waters, that waters, its arrested its great deal, deal, arrested suffered aa great town su/fered this town which this from which from to began to fame began its fame Henri IV ilS of Henri reign of the reign in the progress, but but in progress,

F-

ry

the which for cheesecake country pleaiant iourbonnaise,a a bourbonnaise, pleasant country cheesecake for which the with bowl cheese cream fresh Pound follows: is as recipe recipc isas follows: Pound fresh cream cheese inin aa bowl with tableand fresh butter cup) oz., eggs, fine'salt,4 g. g. (2Q oz., ct f cup) fresh butter and 44 tablefine salt, 4 eggs, 5050

Preparation BOUTARGUE BOUT ARGUE -- Preparation of dried, pressed -mullet mullet roe Pj-o-v-e-$:' be bought ready-made' It is a speciality 9f It can be that boughl ready-made. It is a speciality of Provene. "t ""tt instructioni on how to make it see HORS-D'(EUVRE' For For instructions on how to make it see HORS-D'UVRE. title in the olden days was BOUTEILLER (Charge de)-This BOUTEILLER (Charge de)This title in the olden days was gin.n to the man in chirge of the wine cellar of the king' of a given ta the man in charge of the wine cellar of the king, of a or some other gieat aristocrat' At the court of the irince, or prince, sorne otherpoit great aristocrat. At the of the high*anking by court always- held was the ii"gt-Lf France the postword was al ways held by high-ranking kings of France in fact is which bouteiller.Today the g""Ti.-.n. gentlemen. Today the bouteiller - which in fact is (wine sommelier with synonymous .rr.d is word fiardly hardly ever used - is synonymous with sommelier (wine "u", waiter). waiter). BOUTER French term for wine that has turned sour' BOUTER - -French term for wine Ibat has turned sour. BOUT-SAIGNEUX The neck of a calf or a sheep' BOUT -SAIGNEUX - -The neck of a calf or a sheep. wotd bouvillon is applied to a young BOUVILLON Theword BOUVILLON -.-The first bouvillon is applied to a young milk-tooth' steer until it loses its steer until it loses ilS first milk-tooth. One of the greatest and most highly regarded BOUZY One BOUZY of the greatest and most highly regarded vineyards of Champagne. ts black Pinot grapes made into vineyards of Champagne. the Its best black Pinot grapes made into red into Made Champagne. contribuieio wiire whiie white wine contribute toathe best Champagne. Made intamuch red wine' fruity natural delicious, gives wine, this grape wine, Ihis grape gives a delicious, natural fruit y wine, much good esteerned by gourmets. It is best drunk young' !1!ln a esteemed by gourmets. Il is best drunk young, but in a good year it maturls admirably; the wine growers of Champagne year it matures admirably; the wine growers of Champagne itaue.ome splendid bottles in their cellars' have sorne splendid boules in their cellars. Intestines of slaughtered animals' BOWELS. BoYAux BOWELS. BOYAUX - Intestines of slaughtered animaIs. (q'v') Pigs' intestines are mainly used for making andauilles Pigs' intestines are mainly used for ma king andouilles (q.v.) andouillettes (q.v.). The smallest ones are used as aid and andol.li/lelles (q.v.). The smallesl ones are used as

of dried,

pressed

roe

141

l4l

BOWL ~OWL

Bowls Bowls (Nicolas) (ir'icolas)

casings for sausages. Fat intestines are used casings used in prepara_ in the prepara_for tion of Lyons sausages. tion ofLyons Pigs'intestines Pigs' intestines are divided divided into two categories: categories: the big and and the the small. smal!. Before Before being being used used pigs, pigs' intestines intestines should should be be prepared prepared and cleaned c\eaned with minute minute care. care.

was was customary customary for for two two people people to to eat eat out out of of one one bowl. bowl. It It was was therefore therefore essential essential to to have have washing washing arrangements arrangements for for the theguests guestsin inthe theroom room where where the themeals meals were were served. served.

BOWL. BOwt. soIBOL - Term Term used used for for basins basins of ofvarying capacity, made made varying capacity, porcelain, earthenware, of ofporcelain, earthenware, glass glass or or metal. meta!. They They aie are sometimes sometimes used used in in France France for for hot hot drinks (coffee, (coffee, chocolate or tea tea with milk) at breakfast. breakfast. milk) served served at The 'punch bowf bowl' is is applied applied to to a a bigger bigger receptacle receptacle The term term 'punch usually usually made made of of silver, silver, in in which which punch punch and and mulled mulled wine wine are are prepared. bol also also applies applies to to china, china, glass glass prepared. In In French French the the word word bol or or metal metal finge1 finger bowls bowls put put before before guests guests after after serving servingfish, fish, or ofa a meal. meal. In In the the past, past, porcelain, porcelain, pottery, pottery, silver sil ver or at at the the end end of and and even ev en gold gold basins basins were were used used for for this this pu.poie. purpose. Thby They were were sometimes be found found in in antique antique sometimes set set in in stands, stands, which which can can still still be shops. shops. It 1t must must be be remembered remem bered that that until until the the middle middle of of ihe the sixteenth at table, table, and and that that it it sixteenth century, century, forks forks were were not not used used at

BRABANQONNE BRABANONNE(A (ALA) LA)-- Garnish Garnishof ofchicory chicoryand and potato potato croquettes croquettes for for large large pieces pieces of of meat. meaL The The garnish garnish iJ is often often supplemented hopshoots shootscooked cookedin inbutter butteror orcream. cream. supplementedby byhop BRAIN. BRAIN.cERvELLE CERVELLE-- Culinary Culinaryterm termfor forthe thebrain brain substance substance of ofedible edibleanimals. animaIs. The Thebrain brainis is rich richin invitamins vitamins and and phos_ phos-

phorus, ofnourishment nourishment in in pro_ prophorus,and and provides providesaagreat greatdeal deal of portion portion to its volume. to its volume.

Water 6910 cent Water 69.10 per per cent Nitrogenous Nitrogenous substances substances \326 13.26 percent percent Fatty Fatty substances substances 1623 16.23 per per cent cent Extractive cent Extractive substances substances 012 per cent 0.12 per Ash 019 per cent Ash 0.19 per cent It also tains phosphorated lecithin It also con contains phosphorated fats fats similar similar to to the the lecithin of egg yolk. yolk. of egg The weight of from 450 g. to 700 g. The weight of an an ox ox brain brain varies varies from 450 g. to 700 g. (1 lb. lb. to to l* It lb.); that of of a from 250 g. to 300 g. (1 lb.); that a calfs calfs brain brain from 250-9. to 300;. (9 oz. oz. to to ll II oz.); oz.); that that of lamb's lamb's or or sheep's brain about 100 g. (9 sheep's brain a-bout 100 i. ^of (4 oz.); the the weight weight of of a pig's pig's brain is about 150 g. (5 oz.). (4 a brain is about 150 g. (5 ozj. -o2.,): (The last is is rarely rarely used used in in cooking.) cooking.) (The last Whatever the recipe, brains must be well purged and Whatever the recipe, brains must be well purged and in a a court-bouillon court-bouillon (q.v.). (q.v.). For the various methods of cooked in cooked For the various meihods of preparation see OFF AL or VARIETY MEATS. preparation see OFFAL or VARIETY MEATS. BRAISE. BRATSER BRAISER - To cook various foods by braising in a BRAISE. cook various foods by braising in a - To special utensil utensil called called a a daubiire daubire (q.v.), (q.v.), or a braising pan. special or a braising p;. BRAISAGE Method which can be applied to BRAISING. BRAISING. BRATsAcE - Method which can be applied to addiilg most food food substances, substances, cooked cooked in an airtight pan, most pan.in an airtight very little little liquid. liquid. Instructions Instructions relevant to braising addiire will he very relevant to braiiing wifl bJ in the the section section entitled entitled CULINARY METHODS. found in found CULINARY METHODS. BRAISING PAN. PAN. nnels$nr BRAISIRE - Utensil made of tinned BRAISING made of tinned - Utensilcast-iron, copper, nickel, nickel, aluminium, aluminium, enamelled earthencopper, enamelled cast_iron, earthen_ ware and fireproof porcelain. ware and fireproof porcelain. In restaurant restaurant terminology, tenninology, the word braisire is applied In the word braisidre is applied to any any kind kind of ofaastock, stock, made out of various meat trimmings to made out of various meat trimminss of basic sauces. This and bones, used for the preparation and bones, used for the preparation of basic ThIs stock is is used used instead instead of estouffade (q.v.) and sauces. c\ear beef or stock of estouffade (q.v.) clear beef or vealstock, stock,which which should properly be used and for the moistening veal should properly be used for the moistening ofroux roux(q.v.), (q.v.),as as is white consomm. of is white consomm6. 142 142

BREAD BREAD
BREAD. BREAD. PAIN PAIN-- Dough Doughmade made of offlour flour and and water, water, fermented fermented and and baked. baked. as a then meal, Cereals Cereals were were first first used used in in the the form form of of meal, then as a honey, oil, with flour or meal of mixture a from made cake cake made from a mixture of me al or flour with honey, oil, sweet sweetwine, wine, various various grains, grains, fruit fruit and and meat, meat. introduced The The Hebrews, Hebrews, the the Egyptians Egyptians and and the the Chinese Chinese introduced without flat fiat cakes cakes made made of of flour flour and and water water dough, dough, baked baked without an no doubt bread, fermented of The leaven. discovery leaven. The discovery of fermented bread, no doubt an used the accidental accidentai one, one, is is attributed attributed to to the the Egyptians, Egyptians, who who used the previous breadleaven of sour sour dough, dough, left left over over from from the the previous breadleaven of flour and making, must of of grapes, grapes, kneaded kneaded with with flour and making, and and the the must in the sun. dried dried in the sun. quickly did not The The use use of of fermented fermented bread bread spread spread quickly but but did not flat cakes, supersede supersede the the old old method method of of making making unleavened unleavened fiat cakes, In the middle thi Roman soldiers. soldiers. In the middle the only only bread bread known known to to the the Roman these flat cakes were used trenchers, name of the under ages, ages, under the name of trenchers, these flat cakes were used eaten instead of plates plates for for cutting cutting up up meat; meat; they they were were then then eaten instead of or or thrown thrown to to the the poor. poor. which must be Making Making bread bread commercially commerciaUy - The The flour, fIour, which must be goes through a milling, after days 15 kept for at least kept for at least 15 days after milling, goes through a it with yeast kneading operation, which which consists consists of of mixing mixing it with yeast kneading operation, and and moistening moistening it it with with water. water. (alcohol The The leaven, leaven, which which gives gives the the dough dough the the ferments ferments (alcohol for transforming necessary fungus) associated and barm barm and associated fungus) necessary for transforming from a sugar sugar into into alcohol alcohol and and carbon carbon dioxide, dioxide, is is taken taken from a yeasts. previous or is is a a mixture mixture of of yeasts. previous kneading, kneading, or The flour is Kneading Kneading with with yeast yeast is is the the usual usual method' method. The flour is yeast put put in in a a bowl, bowl, a a well weil made made in in the the centre, centre, yeast and and warm warm 4 or 5 water water added, added, and and the the mixture mixture left left to to ferment ferment for for 4 or 5 'refreshed' It is hours, is then then 'refreshed' by by hours, to to form form the the 'main 'main leaven'. leaven'. It 'first leaven'. the obtain flour to weight of equal weight of flour to obtain the 'first leaven'. adding an adding an equal flour is More More flour is added added later later to to obtain obtain the the 'second 'second leaven' leaven' or or of of the or a a third represents half tout point, tout point, which which represents ha If or third of the batch batch of loaves. 10aves. is added, addedt flour is remaining flour the remaining kneading, the final kneading, During the the final During water. This wann, salted salted water. with warm, is moistened moistened with and the the dough dough is and This (kneading) and is followed by contreand is is cali calledy'ase operation is operation ed jrase (kneading) followed by contre(secnnd kneading), is very hard work when done which is kneading), which frase (second very hard work when done lump, into one one lump, dough into the dough moulding the by hand. hand. It It consists consists of of moulding by stretching dividing, stretching it to to subside, subside, dividing, leaving it it to rise, allowing allowing it to rise, leaving and all these operations lot again again one lot and kneading kneading it it into into one - and and ail these operations quickly. In In modern modern establishments establishments they very quickly. have to be done done very to be have they kneaders. in mechanical are done are done in mechanical kneaders. in a a left to stand it is is completed, kneading is completed, it is left to stand in When the the kneading When a cloth. with covered kneading trough kneading trough covered with a cloth. more taste and has has more is whiter whiter and leaven is with leaven Bread kneadcd kneaded with Bread taste yeast. with diluted diluted yeast. only with kneaded only than bread bread kneaded than dioxide released carbon the ofleaven, the action action of leaven, the released carbon dioxide Through the Through its original original double its it reaches reaches double puffs up When it dough. When up the the dough. puffs is sprinkled underside is loaves, the the underside into loaves, is divided divided into it is volume, it sprinkled volume, ground maize finely ground flour or or finely rice flour flour, with wholemeal wholemeal fi with our, rice maize put in oven. in the (corn meal) the oyen. loaves put the loaves meal) and and the (corn (425" and 220"and and 300C. 300"C. (425 and to between between 220 is heated heated to The oyen oven is The the of whole surface the as to sear way in a such 575"F.), 575F.), in such a way as to sear the whole surface of the ferment. to ferment. continues to interior continues the interior while the immediately, while loaf immediately, loaf forms holes holes in the bread dough, forms the dough, swells the Carbon dioxide dioxide swells Carbon in the bread the inside temperature When the to bulge. bulge. When thesurface surface to and causes causes the and inside temperature into (l40oF.), the is transformed transformed into the starch starch is reaches 60C. 60"C. (140F.), reaches temperature the temperature when the ceases when Fermentation ceases starch-paste. Fermentation starch-paste. temperature (176"F.). When inside temperature the inside When the goes up 80"C. (176F.). up to to 80C. goes (212"F.), the loses a large proportion crustloses the crust 100'C.(212F.), ieaches 100C. reaches a large proportion evaporation. byevaporation. of water water by of (which will have gone oven(which theoyen of the temperature of thetemperature When the When will have gone putiuto reaches 200'C. it) reaches into it) was being beingput the bread bread was while the down while down 200C. is then injected steam Water roasted. (400'F.) the isroasted. Water steam is then starchis thestarch (400F.) injected prevent formation the toprevent the water) to withwater) (or the issprayed sprayed with ovenis theoyen formation (or according to variesaccording time varies The baking baking time crust.The thickaacrust. oftoo too thick of to loaves. ofthe thesize sizeof the loaves. the r43 143

Braising Braisingpan pan (Dehillerin. (Dehillerin. Phot. Phol. Lnrousse\ Larousse)

BRAMBLE (Blackberry). (Blackberry). noNct RONCE

- Prickly Prickly bush bush whose whose be used used to to make make syrup and and jam' jam. The The young young berries can can be berries shoots can be be eaten like asparagus. asparagus. BRAN. SON - Outer casing casing of of the the grain, grain, which which is is separated separated BRAN; soN from the the flour by milling. BRANDADE - Method Method of of preparing preparing pounded pounded salt salt cod, cod, which is is very very popular in in Languedoc and and Provence. Provence. It It is is slowly flavoured flavoured with-garlic, with garlic, and and is is prepared prepared by by cooking cooking slowly and stirring vigorously over moderate lieat heat and vigorously and and constantly constantly same heat a wooden spoon, maintaining the with a the same heat throughthroughCOD, oil, little operation. Add out the operation. Add oil, little by by little. little. (See (See COD, out the of salt cod.) Brandade of Brandade

(See SPIRITS.) SPIRITS') from wine. (See distilled from BRANDEVIN BRANDEVIN - Spirit distilled countryside goes about the countryside about the who goes BRANDEVINIER BRANDEVINIER - Man who fruit. or fruit. marc or wine, marc from wine, his still still for distilling spirit from with rus

are cider are and cider beer and where beer Establishment where BRASSERIE - Establishment in gteat many many in a great are a there are Breweries, of which there sold. Breweries, or sold. made or in not established established in were not regions, were in the eastern regions, Germany and in the of the middle of the middle until the parts of France until of France and other other parts Paris and Paris or caf6s or are cafs times are in modem modern times Brasseries in century. Brasseries nineteenth century. served. are served. and drink drink are food and where food restaurants where restaurants a meetingmeetingas a serve as to serve used to of brasseries brasseries used types of Certain types Certain bohemians' and bohemians. letters and of letters men of artists, men politicians, artists, place for for politicians, place converted become converted either become have either which have tlie brasseries brasseries which Among the Among are altogether, are have disappeared disappeared altogether, or have else or something else into something into Nadar, Pelloquet, Pelloquet, with Nadar, associated with Martyrs, associated in rue rue des des Martyrs, those in those Baudelaire, I'Isle-Adam, Baudelaire, de l'Isle-Adam, Villiers de d'Anglemont, Villiers Privat d'Anglemont, Privat and Carjat. Carjat. Courbet and Courbet for a centre centre for was a time was at one one time which at Pousset, which Brasserie Pousset, Brasserie of journalists, became meeting-place of the meeting-place became the and journalists, men and literary men literary brasseries famous brasseries Other famous officials. Other colonial officiais. govetnment and and colonial government meet could meet one could where one du Petit-Poucet, Petit-Poucet, where Brasserie du the Brasserie were the were in Steinbach in Brasserie Steinbach and Brasserie Grenet-Dancourt; and and Grenet-Dancourt; Ponchon and Ponchon for aa to calI call for used to Mor6as used Jean Moras where Jean Latin where the Quartier the Quartier Latin Mounet. Paul Mounet. or Paul Maindron or Maurice Maindron chat with with Maurice chat in Lipp, Lipp' today in in Paris Paris today survives in style survives The brasserie brasserie style The Passage in the the Passage Flo in Brasserie Flo charming Brasserie the charming and the Bofinger, and Bofinger, Petites-Ecuries. des Petites-Ecuries. des

the bertholettia, bertholettia, of the Fruit of DUBRSIL sREstr- - Fruit NoD(DU NUT.NOIX BRAZIL N1JT. BRAZIL to sometimes to Brazil, sometimes and Brazil, growsin in Paraguay Paraguay and which grows tree which aa tree asAmerican American known as alsoknown isalso The nut nutis (114 feet) inheight. height.The feet)in m.(114 35 35m. Portuguese calledlvia;the itisiscalled America it InSou South chestnut.In chestnut. th America juvia; the Portuguese maranon. demaranon. itcastenas castenas de callit cal1 hard; andhard; isbrown brown and edges, is sharpedges, threesharp hasthree which has Itssheil, shell, which Its hazelnut' andhazelnut. coconutand tococonut flavour to inflavour issimilar similar in kernel is whitekernel thewhite the

BREAD BREAD
The total loss of water is proportional to the size of the The total loss of water is proportional to the size of the loaf; to obtain 1000 g. (2.2tb.) bread, lt40 g. (2.5 lb.) dough loaf; to obtain 1000 g. (22 lb.) bread, 1140 g. (2,5 lb.) dough will be needed for loaves of 4 kg. (8.8 lb.) and 1670g. (3.71b.) will be needed for loaves of 4 kg. (8,8 lb.) and 1670 g. (3,7 lb.) for loaves of I kg. (2'21b.). for loaves of 1 kg. (2-2 lb.). If the fermentation of thedough doughisisexcessive, excessive, carbon carbon If the fermentation of the dioxide is released before the loaves are placed in the oven, dioxide is released before the loaves are placed in the oven, and the bread will be heavy and compact, with a cavity and the bread will be heavy and compact, witb a cavity
less watertban thanfresh fresh bread), but partialtransformation to transformation less water bread), but to aa partial of starchinto intodextrine. dextrine. By (which heatingstale stale bread causes ofstarch By heating bread (which causes itit tolose lose per cent of itswater water content)a a distillationprocess processisis to 33 per cent ofits content) distillation achieved; moisture moisturefrom fromthecrust the crustpenetra penetrates thicrumb, crumb, achieved; tes the givingit, it,for fora a shorttime, time,the the appearanceoffresb of freshbread. bread. giving short appearance Varieties of. ofbread bread- - In InFrance, France,ordinary ordinaryor orhousehold household Varieties bread(pain ordinaire,or painde orpain demnage) minaie)islong is longand Qtainordinaire, and bread cylindricalin inshape, shape,fiattened flattenedon onthe thetop, top,and andslashed slashedwith with cylindrical slantingor parallelmarkings, orparallel markings,The Theboulot boulotor orbouleau bouleau loafisthe slanting loafis the sameshape, shape, but butBoured flouredon ontop. top.The Thepolka polkaloaf toafisislong longor or same round, witb withaahard hardcrust, crust,slashed slashedwith withlozenge-shaped lozenge-shaped round, decorations.A Asplit splitloaf joining two loafis ismade madeby byjoining longloaves twolong loaves decorations. tqgether; it itis isthicker thicker and andhas hasless lesscrust. crust.The Theround roundloaf loafis isof of tQgether; thetradition traditional round shape, shape,the theupper uppercrust crusthaving havingaadomed domed the al round top;the thecrown crownloaf, loaf,as asits itsname nameimplies, implies,is iscircular circular in inform. form. top; Fancyloaves, loaves,sold soldby pieceand bythe the piece andnot not by byweight, weight,are Fancy are made out out of of highest qualityfiour highest quality flour and andshaped shapedeither either into into made batons, with with aagolden golden brown brown or orfioured floured surface, surfice,or orinto into fiat batons, flat loaves or orsmall small rolls rollsof various shapes. ofvarious shapes. loaves T.he Vienna Vienna loaf loaf is is kneaded kneaded with with aacertain quantity of certain quantity The of milk. The The tin tin or pan loaf, or pan loaf,square-shaped square-shaped with with at very lr.ry thin milk. thin crust, is is used used in in France France mainly mainly for for toast, toast,canaps, canapis, garnish girnish crust, crottons and and sandwiches. sandwiches. crotons On the the borderline borderline between between the the domains domains of of bakery bakery and On and pastry-making we we have have brioche brioche dougb dough loaves loaves and puffpastry and puff pastry-making pastry croissants. cr issan ts. Bread containing containing sorne some or or all all of of the the bran germ of bran and and genn Bread of the the grain and and endospenn endosperm is is theoretically theoretically more more nutritive, nuiritive, but grain but being less less easily easily assimilated assimilated by by the the intestines, intestines, the the advantages being advantages are rather rather problematical. problematical. are Wholemeal bread bread is is made made from from meal meal containing containing the Wholemeal the the entire entire wheat wheat grain. grain. In In sorne some parts parts of of Germany the Germany very very dark dark (pumpernickel) is bread (pumpernickel) is made made of of coarse coarse unbolted unbolted rye. bread rve.

between the crumb and the crust. between the crumb and the crust. Alcohol, which forms during fermentation, evaporates Alcobol, which forms during fermentation, evaporates during baking as well as carbon dioxide, which continues during baking as weil as carbon dioxide, which continues to be released during cooling. A condensation of steam to be released during cooling. A condensation of steam takes place during this cooling-off period in newly baked takes place during this cooling-off period in newly baked bread, which then begins to look greasy and shiny. bread, which then begins to look greasy and shiny. of bread - A good quality loaf should have a Qualitiesof QuaIities bread - A good quality loaf should have a pale yellow or light brown bottom crust and a golden yellow pale yellow or light brown bottom crust and a golden yellow or light brown top crust, which should be thick, domed, and or light brown top crust, which should be thick, domed, and resonant when tapped. Both the crusts should adhere to the resonant when tapped. Both the crusts should adhere to the and together equal one-fifth of the weight of the 9rupb, and crumb, together equal one-fifth of the weight of the loaf (the thicker the crust, the less water there is in a loafl. loaf (the thicker the crust, the water there is in a loaf). If the crusts ofa slice of bread less are pressed together the slice If the crusts of a slice of bread are pressed together the slice should quickly regain its original shape. should quickly regain its original shape. The crumb should be homogenous, without any white or The crumb should be homogenous, without any white or yellowish lumps, without grey, red or black spots; it should yellowish lumps, without grey, red black spots; it should not stick to the fingers; the holesor in it should be uneven, uneven, not stick to the fingers; tbe boles in it should be not too big (which is a sign of badly kneaded dough), nor not too big (which is a sign of badly kneaded dougb), nor (which too small is a sign of insufficient fermentation); the too small (which is a sign of insufficient fermentation); the smell should be sweet, the taste clean and pleasant. taste clean and pleasant. smell sbould be sweet, the Too white a crumb is a sign of rice flour having been Too white a crumb is a sign of rice Bour having been added; greyish-brown crumb shows that rye or bucliwheat added; greyish-brown crumb shows that rye or buckwheat

If kept for a long long time, time, bread bread becomes becomes stale, stale, the the crumb crumb If kept for a dries up and the crust grows soft. This is not due solely to dries up and the crust grows soft. This is not due solely to the loss of water (stale bread contains only about I per ient the loss of water (stale bread con tains only about 1 per cent

flour has been added. Bour bas been added.

i
&

Bread (Nrcolas) wedges Bread wedges (Nicolas)

t44 144

BREAD BREAD

Unleavened bread bread ((Larousse) Iar ousse'l Unleavened

bread ordinary bread French ordinary Eight varieties of French (Maison Syda. Larousse) Phot. Larousse) Syda. Phol. (Maison

Wheaten flour is used for fine bread, bread, but in many countries Wheaten bread made rye is is the principal bread bread grain. Barley bread, bread, bread rye and made and be made from a barley and to be used to and wheat, used a mixture of barley as can can be be very coarse, as was very time, but it was fresh for a a long time, kept fresh 'as coarse as judged from the as barley bread', because saying'as the saying i t is d ifficu 1 t to h ull barley. hull difrcult it has a a whole rye, rye, has Rye bolted whole cent bolted 15 per cent of 15 made of bread, made Rye bread, of rye rye heavy, compact texture; bread made out a mixture mixture of of a out of is well and and is and wheat (one part rye to three parts wheat) keeps weil sold ty bread. quality as quali sold as gluten Gluten has gluten diabetics, has for diabetics, manufactured .for Gluten bread, bread, manufactured 210 per added per cent starch' cent starch. to 40 up to it containS contains up added to the dough; it Unleavened bread, ordinary bread, than ordinary used than less used is much much less bread is Unleavened bread though it is is served served example, it for example, Sweden for countries, Sweden in sorne some countries, though in with w]rth hors-d'uvre. hors-d'euvre. Adulteration is to to prevalent method method is most prevalent The most bread -- The of bread Adulteration of possible, retain as possible, bread as the bread in the water in proportion of of water great a a proportion as great retain as but use the use practices, involving involving the fraudulent practices, are other other fraudulent there are but there 'imof va-rious 'imadding various and adding gluten content, content, and poor in grain poor in gluten of grain proving thus flour, thus products -- to to the the flour, chemical products proving agents' agents' -- chemical rendering process, condemned condemned This process, easier. This bread-making easier. iendering bread-making by disthe dislittle to to the not aa !ittle contributed not has contributed nutritionists, has all nutritionists, by aIl favour dieticians. held by by dieticians. is held in which which bread bread is favour in Digestibility and is used, used, and which is food which is a a food Bread is of bread bread -- Bread Digestibility of abused, For France. For in France. especially in any other, other, especiaUy than any more than abused, more many, and are taugbt taught -- and childrenare which children food, which it is is the staple food, the staple many, it forced the circles the in many many circles food; in other food; all other with ail eat with to eat forced -- to quantity all ofaIl thatof volume that in volume exceeds in consumed exceeds quantity of of bread bread consumed other put together. together. foods put other foods Good excellent quantities is isan anexcellent in moderate moderate quantities bread taken taken in Good bread food, quantities' inexcessive excessive quantities. consumed in not be beconsumed it should should not food, but but it The because both because crumb, both the crumb, than the digestible tban is more more digestible The crust crust is being andbecause because greater care, care,and withgreater chewedwith to be bechewed it has has to hardit being hard one is bread is toasted bread reason' toasted same reason, thesame it. For For the less of of it. eatsless one eats better us be tochew chew itit forcedto beforced will th thus whowill for dyspeptics, dyspeptics, who better for more toover-eat. over-eat. lesstempted tempted to will be beless andwill more tboroughly thoroughly and The the andthe crustand thecrust ofthe composition of thecomposition in the difference in The difference crumb content. greaterwater watercontent. latter's greater inthe thelatter's liesmainly mainlyin crumb lies There worst theworst bread,the prejudicesconcerning concerning bread, arevarious various prejudices Thereare being been This,having having been bread.This, forwhite whitebread. preference for thepreference being the reserved always goneby, wasalways by,was intimes timesgone classes in richerclasses for the thericher reserved for coveted theuse use them,the Tosatisfy satisfythem, classes.To favouredclasses. lessfavoured bythe theless coveted by 145 145

manufor the the manuto for resorted 10 flour was was resorted extracted flour higher extracted of higber of for the the flour for artificially-bleached Bour and artiticiaIly-bleached 'rich' bread bread and facture of of 'rich' facture other kinds. kinds. other so bread, so white bread, excessively white principal drawback of excessively drawback of The principal The if practically uneatable uneatable if is practically it is present, is is tbat that it popular at at present, popular its dietetic dietetic Besides, its hours. Besides, a few few hours. than a for more more than stored for stored people to people it is is harmful harmful to and undoubtedly undoubtedly it qualities are nil and are nl qualities digestions. delicate digestions. with delicate with with made with bread made or dietary dietary bread natural or is natural there is Fortunately there Fortunately means fire by which means by which a wood wood tire over a yeast and stone over on stone and baked baked on yeast retained. is retained. food is goodness of staple food of this this staple the goodness the
p.cIN EN nN DITTIQUEodrfrIQus IN DIETETICS. DIETETICS. PAlN BREAD IN BREAD inagreement agreement wholly in not whoIly are not Dieticians are bread -- Dieticians Wholemeal bread Wbolemeal they but they bread, but wholemeal bread, of wholemeal value of nutritive value the nutritive concerning the concerning present atpresent bread at the white white bread that the in recognising recognising that are unanimous unanimous in are it was when food it waswhen idealfood the ideal no longer longer the is no sale commercially commercially is on on sale (and not rollers), not by by rollers), stone-ground (and flours stone-ground wheat flours with wheat made made with (and not withcbemical chemical not with leavenings (and prepared with natural leavenings with natural prepared (notan an oil-fired oil-fired oven(not wood-fired oyen in aa wood-tired and cooked cooked in ones), ones), and one). one). ideal isstill stillthis thisideal hand,is other hand, theother on the bread,on Wholemeal Wholemeal bread, wholeisreally really wholethatititis ensure that mustensure consumer must food. But But the theconsumer food. mixed flour mixed ordinaryBour withordinary madewith not bread breadmade and not meal meal bread bread and orsorne some wheatgennor 'enriched'with evenbread bread 'enriched' oreven with with wheatgerm with bran, bran, or ingredient. such such ingredient. pure wheat wheat withpure madewith properbread is that thatmade breadis The The only only proper percent, cent, 95per percent and95 centand (between90 90per preferablybolted bolted(between Bour, flour,preferably on bakedon yeastand andbaked naturalyeast with natural percent), leavenedwith at besi80 80per cent),leavened atbest woodtire. fire. stone stoneover overaawood tolerate systemstolerate ordigestive digestivesystems notaIl allstomachs stomachsor However, not However, Itisisimportant important maybe. be.It thoughititmay excellent though wholemeal wholemealbread, bread, excellent forthe the morefor doesmore breaddoes wholemealbread to notethat thatsince sincewholemeal to note rationcan can dailyration theusual usualdaily bread, the ordinary bread, organism thanordinary organism than wholemealbread bread more.Also Alsothat thatwholemeal ormore. thirdor be uced by reduced byaathird trered or dishes, highlyspiced spiceddishes, meats,highly govery wellwith withmeats, does or notgo veryweil doesnot a1coholic alcoholicbeverages. beverages. anda a breadand wholemealbread According dieticians,wholemeal tothe thedieticians, Accordingto ideal. the tbe ideal. basically dietisis vegetarian diet basicallyvegetarian

We BREAD- - We GOODBREAD METHODS MAKINGGOOD FORMAKING METHODSFOR recipes. Edlinrecipes. give, Edlin three quotingfrom give,quoting fromCarme, Car0me, three gastronomicallywiththeir theirgastronomically'Cooks,' writes, with 'whotravel travel writes,'who 'Cooks,' he he

BREADCRUMBS BREADCRUMBS
minded masters can, from now on, by following this method, mnded masters can, from now on, by following this method, procure fresh bread every day.' procure fresh bread every day.' Ordinary method. MTHODE mirnoon ORDINAIRE (5 lb., oRDTNATRE - - 'Put Z*kg. 'put2! lb., Ordinsry methoo. kg. (5
Gonesse, having having been questioned juridically on the reasons beanquestioned Gonesse, for the the superior quality of superior quality of their their bread, attributed it to the for water they they used preparation. used in inits its preparation. water Plaitd bread. bread"NATTE NArrE - - Bread Bread baked baked in inthe plait. the form formof ofaaplait. PhLiied pArN POUR pouR POTAGES porAGEs - This Breadfor for soops. soups.PAIN bread, which which Bread - This bread, is made made in in the the shape of of aa long long thin roll and thin roll and is is sold sold only only in in is big Paris Paris bakeries, prepared of bakeries, is prepared of dough dough very very rich gluten. rich in in gluten. big These rolls rolls are are cut cut into into thn thin slices slices and and dried dried in in the the oyen, oveno Or or These theycan can be becut cut and and hollowed hollowed out (See out in in various variousshapes. shapes. (See they cRoorEs.) CROTES.) pArN AZYME Unleavened bread. bread" PAIN AzyME -- Tbe The Book Book of of Exodus Exodus Unleovened tells us us that that in in lheir their haste haste to to leave leave Egypt Egypt the the Jews Jews forgot forgot 10 to tells yeast with bring yeast with them, them, and and that that for for aa long long time time aCter after that that they had to to eat eat unleavened unleavened bread. bread. The Israelites Israelites perpetuated the the memory memory of privation of thls this nn'V<lr'AM by eating eating only only unleavened bread bread during during Pesach. This This is is by how this this bread bread is is made: made: how Knead sorne some sieved sieved wheaten wheaten flour flour with with salt salt and and water water Knead into a a slightly softish softish paste. Roll Roll out out into into round round or or square into pieces 1 I cm. inch) thick. Prick cm. $ inch) Prick themall them all over over and and bake in pieces a low low oyen. oven. a pArN AZYME, Unleavened or or offering bread. bread" PAIN AzyMr, A HOSTm uosrn -Unleavened Strain the the flour flour through a a silk silk sieve. sieve. Oilute Dilute with with enough enough Slrarn slightly salted salted water water to to obtain a paste, as a softsh softish paste, as for for wafers, called oublies. oublies. Pour into into special special moderately hot hot iron iron moulds in in su such a Pour ch a way as iN 10 paste without allowing to dry the the pasle allowing it it to colom. colour. Leave Leave way to dry dry on on wicker trays in in the the oyen. plae in oven. Store Store in in a a dry dry place in to with well-fiuing well-fitting lids. wooden boxes boxes with pArN VIENNOIS Viennese bread. bread. PAIN vrENNon bread was Viennese Viennese bread - Viennese brought to Paris in 1840 1840 by Count Zang, First Secretary of of brought ta Paris in parisian the Austrian Austrian Embassy, who who founded the the first first Parisian the bakery, in rue methods. Zang Zang bakery, in rue Richelieu, using using Viennese Vennese methods. made such a a success of the venture that made such success of the venture that he he became bec.:ame over confident, enlarged the confident, the bakery bakery beyond beyond his his means, means, and ruined himself ruined himself installing equipment. equjpment. He He was was obliged to leave leave Paris Paris following following the the events of of 1848, 1848, but his Viennese bread bread remained. remained. BREADCRUMBS. or d chapelure CHAPELUREThe French French w word chapelure BREADCRUMBS. cHAIELUR.E - The comes COrnes ftom from chapeler, chapeler. which meant to crush bread that had had been been dried dried very slowly in in the the oven. oven. White White breadcrumbs are obtained obtained by sieving stale white white bread bread through through a a metal sieve sieve with with a fairly fairly large large mesh, and are used used for for crumbing crumbing objects destined desned for frying. Loaf Loaf bread, bread, called called 'English bread' bread' in in France, is is generally generally used used for this this pulpose. When French French bread bread is is used, used, the the operation is is easier easier if, after the of the the crust, cruSl, the the bread is is rolled roUed in in a a the removal removal of lightly lightly floured ftoured cloth. cio th. Then Then this lhis bread bread passes passes much much more more easily easly through through the the meshes rneshes of of a a sieve. sieve. White White breadcrumbs breadcrumbs can can be he kept kept for for two two or or three three days. days. If If one one takes takes the the precaution precaution of of drying dryng the the breadcrumbs breadcrumbs gently gently above above the the stove, stove, without wilhout allowing allowing them them to to brown, brown, they they keep keep much much longer. longer. Golden Golden breadcrumbs breadcrumbs are are prepared by drying bread crusts crusts in in a a very very slow slow oven. oven. Once Once dry and slightly coloured, these these crusts crusts are are pounded pounded in in a a mortar mortar (or (or crushed with with a a rolling-pin) rolling-pin) and and passed passed through through a a wire-mesh wire-mesh sieve. sieve. This This type type of of breadcrumb breadcrumb will will keep keep indefinitely indefinitely in in a a covered covered glass glass jir jar in n a a dry dry atmosphere. Golden Golden breadcrumbs (if (if white white breadcrumbs breadcrumbs are are not nol available) available) can can be heused used for for coating coatingmeat meatand and fish fish with withegg egg and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs before before frying, frying, but but they they are are mainly mainly used used for for sprinkling sprnkling over over preparations preparations which which are are cookod cooked an augratin. gratin. BREADCRUMB BREADCRUMB (To). (To). pawrn PANER - To Ta coat coat an an object abject with with breadcrumbs breadcrumbs before before frying frying it itin in clarified clarifie<! butter. bUller. Coat Coat with with butter butter and and breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. p.lrvm. PANER AU AU BEuRRE BEURRE To To brush brush various various meats, meats, before before grilling grilling them, them, with with plenty plenty

'After having left left the the dough dough in in this this condition condition for for an an hour hour 'After or two, two, knead it aga again, then coyer cover and and leave leave for for another another or in, then 2 hours. 2 hours. 'Divide the the dough dough into parts and into 8 8 equa\ equal parts and shape shape inlo into loaves. loaves. 'Divide Put them them in in a a hot quickly as hot oven oven as possible. When as quickly as possible. When baked, baked, Put rub the crust with a little butter, to make it golden.' rub the crust with a little butter, to make it golden.'.put French rolled loaf. pArN FRAN9ATs EN RouLEAu 2t kg. kg. French l'oUed loaf. PAIN fRANAlS EN ROULEAU -- 'Put 2* (5 lb., 20 cups) sieved flour into a kneading trough. Knead it (51b., 20 cups) sieved flour into a kneading trough. Knead it with generous litre (2 pints, 2f pints) milk, 250 g. (8 oz., I cup) with generous litre (2 2~ pints) milk, 250 (8 OZ., 1 wann butter, 60 g. (2t oz.) 60 g. yeast and oz.) yeast (2 oz and 50 g. (2 oz., warm butter, . 3 tablespoons) salt. When all the ingredients have been mixed, tablespoons) salt. When all the Ingredients have mixed, knead with a sufficient quantity of hot water. Mix well, cover, knead with a sufficien t quan tily of hot wa 1er. Mix well, cover, and leave for 2 hours. Shape into rolls, put them on baking and leave for 2 hours. Shape ioto rolls. put them on baking trays and leave in a warm place to rise for an hour. Bake in a trays and leave in a warm place to r1se for an hOUI. Bake in a very hot oven for 20 minutes.' hot oyen for 20 minutes,' plns i ul lrnRrNe, A r.l. Loaf i la la terrine terrine or grecque. PAlN or i la la grecque. LA TERRJl'.'E, LA cREceuE -'Put 2f, kg. (5 lb., 20 cups) slightly warm fine flour GRECQUE - 'Put 2i kg. (5 lb., 20 cups) slightly warm fine fiour into a a big big mixing mixing bowl, bowl, also (2 oz.) also warm. warm. Add Add 50 50 g. (2 oz.) yeast, into 50 g. (2 3 lablespoons) tablespoons) salt quantity of salt and and a a "LHU...,.' sufficient .... "L 50, g. (2 oz., 3 water or or milk to to make make the dough rather the dough rather soft. soft. water 'Knead thoroughly, thoroughly, caver, cover, and keep in plae for and keep in a a warm warm place for 'Knead Divide into 3 hours. 8 loaves loaves and put these and put these into into buttered buttered 3 hours. Divide into 8 terrines. terrines. 'Bake in in a a very very hot When nearly baked, baked, rem remove ove 'Bake hot oven. aven. When from the terrines on baking trap for a a few few minutes from the terrines and and put put on baking trays minutes to a little.' little.' to let let them them brown brownpArN a Choim -A Cbome bread. bread. PAIN DE DE cHorNE CHOINE A fine-textured fine-textured white white bread. salted bread, bread. It It was was once once a a salled bread. therefore therefore a a luxury, luxury, salt salt being being extremely extremely expensive expensive in in the the sixteenth sixteenth century. century. p.lnr Consecrated Consecrated bread. bread. PAIN sfxn BNIT - Consecrated Consecrated bread, bread, which which is is distributed distributed in in churches churches of of big big towns, towns, is is most most frequently frequently made of fine brioche dough. made of fine brioche dough. In In the the country country the the dough dough for for consecrated consecrated bread bread is is made made like like brioche brioche dough, dough, using using the the following following ingredients: ingredients: I 1 kg. kg. cups) (18 sieved flour, g. 500 2| cups) oz., butter, Q+1b.,9 (2* lb., 9 sieved flour, 500 (18 02., 2i cups) butter, 20 e.G oz.) brewer's yeast, I litre (scant pint, 2f cups) boiled 20 (j oz.) ~ litre pint, 2* cups) boiled milk and and a a pinch pinch of salt. pArN pArN Engfish tin loaf. loaf. PA1N ANGLATS, ANGLAlS, Drr DIT Aussr AUSSI PAIN DE DE MrE MIE English m or tin Used for crofftons, white breadcrumbs, etc., or for making Used for crotons, white breadcrumbs, etc., or for making sandwiches, toast, or canapis served ashors-d'euvre. sandwiches, toast, or canaps serve<! as hors-d'uvre. English loaves loaves are are baked baked in in rectangular tins, tins, and and are are used used for making hollowed-oat croustades (q.v) in in which which various various ragottts, pur6es, etc. are served. ragots, pures, etc. are served. tr'inger rolls with milk- pnrns pAINs AU LArT - Spread I kg. Finger mUs with mllk. PETITS PAlNS AU LAIT 1 kg. Q*1b.,9 (2* lb., 9 cups) cups) sieved sieved flour flour on on the the table table in in a a circle. Makel Make a well weil in in the the centre, centre, and and put put into in ta it it 250 250 g. g. e (9 oz., oz., generous generous cup) butter, 25 g. (l oz., 2 tablespoons) fine sugar, and a pinch oi butter, 25 g. (1 OZ., 2 tablespoons) fine sugar, and a salt. Moisten with 5 dl. (scant pint,Zf,cups) boildd milk and salt. Moisten wth 5 dl. (seant pint, 2-i cups) boiled and add a little warm water. Knead with 40 g. (ll o2.,2 cakes) add a little wann wateL Knead with 40 O!- oz., 2 cakes) baker's yeast and leave until the next morning. baker's and leave until tbe next Divide the the dough dough into into small small 60-9. or 80-g. (2foz. or 3-oz.) pieces and shape into slightly oval rolls. Sp[t -he rolls 3-02.) pieces and shape inlo slightly rails. slightly slightly in in the the centre, centre, brush brush with with beaten beaten egg egg and bake in a hot hot oven. oven_ Finger rolb with eggs. pETrrs pArNs Ar,rx oEtrFs - These are mUs with PETITS PAINS AUX OEUFS - These are made like FWer rolls with milk, adding3 egg yolks. made Finger wilh milk, 3 egg yolks. Gonesse Bread. pArN DE coNEssE - This was renowned for Gonesse Bread. PAIN DE GONESSE was renowned for its its whiteness whiteness and and taste. taste. Gonesse Gonesse was was once once a a village village on on the the outskirts outskirts of ofParis. Paris. Olivier Olivier de de Serres Serres said said that that the the bakers bakers of of

20 cups) flour in the mixing trough. Make a well in the middle 20 cups) fiour in the mixing Make a weil in the middle and put in 50 g. (2 oz.) yeast. Moisten with warm water and and put in 50 g. (2 oz.) yeast. with warm water and mix until until the the consistency of of brioche brioche dough dough is is reached, reached, mix kneading well and adding 50 g. (2 o2.,3 tablespoons) fine salt, kneading well and adding g. (2 oz., 3 tablespoons) fine salt, diluted in in a a little warm water. Cover and put in a warm place diluted httle warm water. Cover and put in a warm place to ferment and rise. to ferment and fise.

t46 146

BREDES BRDES

of of melted melted butter, butter, and and roll roll them them in in freshly freshly grated grated breadbreadcrumbs. crumbs. Coat with with breadcrumbs breadcrumbs la la milanaise. milanaise. p.lNrn PANER A LA Coat MTLANATSE MILANAISE - As As ri I'anglaise l'anglaise (see (see below), below), but but adding adding oneonethird third of oftheir their volume volume of ofgrated grated Parmesan Parmesan cheese cheese to to the the breadbreadcrumbs. crumbs. Coat Coat with with egg egg and and breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. rANER PANER A t'lNcLAIsn L'ANGLAISE - To To dip dip various various foods foods - escalopes, escalopes, fillets fillets of of fish, fish, cutlets, cutlets, etc. etc. in in a a mixture nUxture of of beaten beaten egg, egg, seasoned seasoned with with a a little little oil, oil, salt salt of food food are are and pepper, pepper, and and white white breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. The The items items of and then fried fried in in clarified c1arified butter. butter. then

Breadfruit Breadfruit

Prepared in in this way it it is is a a valuable valuable food, food, very very nutritious, nutritious, its taste recalling recalling that that of of freshly freshly baked baked bread, bread, with with a a slight sligbt hint of of artichoke artichoke and Jerusalem Jerusalem artichoke. artichoke. provide sufficient Two Two or three three of of these these trees, trees, it it is is claimed, claimed, provide sufficient food for one man man for for a a whole whole year. year. The The seeds seeds are are also also edible, edible, and and are are roasted roasted in in the the cinders cinders or or cooked cooked in in water water like Iike chestnuts, in size size and and taste. taste. chestnuts, which they resemble resemble a a little little in tree the iack Another species species of of the breadfruit breadfruit tree tree called called the jack tree has fruit fruit structurally resembling resembling the the breadfruit" breadfruit, and and is is eaten eaten greatly inferior a vast scale, scale, but on on a but it it is is greatly inferior to to the the real real breadbreadsmall is eaten ocrea is fruit in taste. taste. Its Its ocrea eaten like like chestnuts. cbestnuts. A A small fruit in genuine breadgreen ocrea quantity of fruit quantity fruit and the the green ocrea of of the the genuine breadare exported exported.. fruit tree fruit tree are and of milk Saucemade cookery)BX.EAD SAUCE SAUCE (English - Sauce made of milk and BREAD @ngtish cookery) fried game' In England fried In England roast game. with roast It is is served with breadcrumbs. It sauce. as this time as same time at the the same served at usually served breadcrumbs are usually this sauce. breadcrumbs (See SAUCE.) (See

Breadfruit tree Breadfruit

plnl -- Genus Genus of of plants A PAIN ARBRE BREADFRUIT TREE. ARBRE BREADFRUIT TREE. palm. It pakn and It is is a a raffia palm. and the the raffia which includes the the sago sago palrn which includes leaves. deeply divided divided leaves. and deeply beautiful soft timber timber and tree, witb with soft beautiful tree, cultivated and is is cultivated regions and Tbe of tropical tropical regions The tree tree is is a a native native of and in in the the archipelago and of the the Asiatic Asiatic archipelago throughout islands of throughout the the islands It attains attains a a regions. It equatorial regions. Pacific to the the equatorial islands close close to Pacific islands (50 to a thick, thick, and contains contains a heigbt to 65 65 feet) feet) and 15 to 20 m. m. (50 height of of 15 to 20 juice whicb glue. The The kind of of glue. is made into a a kind viscous, made into milky juice which is viscous, milky juice, which is used used by by the the the air, air, is exposure to to the juice, on exposure hardens on which bardens canoes. The The their canoes. to waterproof waterproof their natives Seas to natives of of the the South South Seas in the the building building is used used in very hard, hard, is timber, in spite not being being very spite of of not timber, in and is beaten out and beaten out fibrous inner inner bark bark is The fibrous of buts and ofhuts and canoes. canoes. The enormous reach enormous The Jeaves, leaves, which which reach made cloth. The into a a kind kind of of cIoth. made into for and roofing roofing for food and for food dimensions, as wrapping wrapping for dimensions, serve serve as as flowers are are used used as of the the male male f10wers dwellings. dried spikes spikes of dwellings. The The dried tinderwood. tinderwood. greenishof aa greenishand of round and Tbe is large large and and round The fruit fruit itself itself is food for for the the yellow colour; of food itern of important item yellow it is is an an important colour; it laxative is laxative taste, is islanders. ripe it it has has a a sweetish sweetish taste, When fully fully ripe islanders. When gathered before quickly. It goes bad It is is gathered before and bad quickly. and indigestible, indigestible, and and goes and white, mealy mealy and sb is it is firm firm and and white, flesh is fully fully ripe, ripe, when when the the fie it is qualities of of nutritive qualities almost ail all tbe the nutritive rich hasalmost in starch, rich in starch, and and has wheaten wheaten bread. bread. or hot coals, coals, or on hot toasted on It or toasted and baked baked or is cut cut in in slices slices and It is rather dark. dark. becomesrather baked outside skin skin becomes theoutside in the theoyen oven until until the baked in
r47 147

Bream Bream

in appearance appearance fish, in freshwater fish, European freshwater BREAM. BRME sRitrffi -- European BREAM. (q.v.) can can given for carp (q.v.) for carp recipes given carp. AlI the recipes resembling the All the the carp. resembling (q.v.) and and for matelotes matelotes (q.v.) It is is mostly mostly used used for bream. It be applied applied to to bream. be fish stews. stews. fish
(See restaurateur' (See Parisian restaurateur. BREBANT Famous Famous Parisian BRBANT DAYS.) BYGONE DAYS.) RESTAURANTS OF OF BYGONE RESTAURANTS given in in sorne of the the old old (Creole cookery) Name given some of cookery) -- Name BRDDES (Crole BRDES leaves of of different different from leaves made from dish made to aa dish colonies to French colonies French cabbage, pumpkin shoots, shoots, cabbage, plants: watercress, of pumpkin watercress, tips tips of plants: Island; R6union Island; of Runion is a a speciality speciality of This dish dish is lettuce. This spinach, lettuce. spinach, (see crCole (see Rdce d. with Rice isserved and is served with it is is very very refreshing refreshing and la crole Ia it RICE). RICE). leaves of of aa Trim the the leaves DE CHOU cHou -- Trim sRtnEs DE brides. BRDES Cabbage brdes. Cabbage veins. Shred Shred cntre veins. the tough tough centre and remove remove the cabbage and white cabbage white asfor fot sauerkraut. sauerkraut. finely as finely golden. light golden. itis islight and fry fry until until it into strips strips and Cutsorne some bacon bacon into Cut chopped tomato. tomato. ginger and pounded ginger and aa chOPPed pinch of Add aa pincb of pounded Add

BRESOLLES BRESOLLES
Moisten with with a a little little water, water, simmer for 20 20 minutes. minutes. Put simmer for Put the the Moisten shredded cabbage cabbage into into this this sauce and cook sauce and cook for for about about 11 l| shredded hours. Serve (see RICE) .Rice Serve Rice dla la crole uiole (see RICE) separately. separately. hours. Lettuce brdes. brldes. BRDES sRioEs DE DE LAITUES LArruEs -- Wash Wash the leaves of Lettuce of the leaves cabbage lettuce lettuce and and cut cut them them lengthways. lengthways. Soak Soak in in cold cold cabbage water. Prepare Prepare in in the the same same manner manner as Watercress brdes u Watercress brides water. (see below) less sauce below) but but use use less sauce and and allow allow shorter cooking time. shorter cooking (see time. Pump\in brdes. brides. BRDES nntpss DE DE CITROUILLE crrRor.JrLLB -- Detach Detach the Pumpl9n the pumpkin shoot leaves of of pwnpkin shoot tips, tips, leaving leaving apiece a piece of of stalk stalk 1 I cm. cm. leaves (* inch) inch) long long on on each each leaf. leaf. Peel Peel off parts, offall and stringy skin and (1 ail skin stringy parts, and scrape green knots. scrape off off ail all green knots. Wash Wash carefully carefully and and leave and leave to to in cold soak in cold water. water. Drain. Drain. Put good fat Put sorne fat in in a some good a casserole, soak casserole, add sorne some diced diced bacon, bacon, and and brown brown a a chopped chopped onion in this onion in add this mixture. Add Add a a large, large, skinned, skinned, seeded quartered seeded- and mixture. and quartered tomato, and garlic and and sorne some salt, ginger, which salt, garlic and ginger, which have have been tomato, been pounded in in a a mortar. mortar. Simmer Simmer for for a a few few moments. moments. Add ponded Add the the prepared pumpkin pumpkin shoots shoots and and simrner without adding simmer without adding water. prepared water. Spinrch brdes. brldes. BRDES sRiDEs D'PINARDS o'6plNlnos -- Prepare Prepare as Spinach as above, above, blanching the the spinach spinach before putting it before putting it into into the blanching the sauce. sauce. Watercress brdes. brddes. BRDES sRtnEs DE DE CRESSON cREssoN -- Wash Watercress Wash and pick and pick over the the cress cress as as for for a (5 oz.) a salad. g. (5 salad. Fry Fry 150 150 g. oz) thickly over thickly sliced sliced bacon and and a a chopped chopped onion golden. Pound onion until until golden. Pound 2 garlic bacon 2 garlic cloves, a pinch of a pinch ginger and of ginger and salt in a salt in a mortar, mortar, and cloves, and add add to to the the mixture, together with peeled, seeded with a a peeled, seeded and mixture, and sliced sliced tomato. Allow to brown for a a few moments, moments, then add add 11 l| large glasses AJlow of water. Boil down the sauce sauce slightly, slightly, and put in of in the cress cress to to simmer is done. done. Serve Serve with with plenty of sauce and sim mer until it is and hand hand (see RICE) separately. d la Ia crole criole (see separately. Rice
dish was was said said to have been invented by BRESOLLES by - This dish in charge chef in the chef charge of Marquis de of Marquis de Bresolles' kitchen kitchen who the it after his called it his master. called 'Chop finely 250 g. (generous 1 g. (generous ham with onions, I lb.) lean ham a few few spring spring onions, onions, sorne some mushrooms and garlic clove. and a a garlic a pepper and a Season with salt, pepper grated nutmeg, a little grated Season nutrneg, and and add little olive oil. a little 'Put a a layer layer of this this forecemeat forecemeat into a a buttered earthen@sserole. Lay thin slices slices of of veal, beef mutton on top, ware casserole. beef or mutton and continue altemating alternating layers layers of forcemeat and and slices of and meat (* inch) from the meat until the casserole is filled filled up to 1 ] cm. (t top. Cover with a lid and and cook in the oven. 'Garnish and pour 'Gamish with with braised braised chestnuts, chestnuts, and pour over over some sorne Demi-glace sauce (q.v.) flavoured with Madeira.'

(A LA) BRETONNE BRETONNE ( preparedd la LA) -- Most Most dishes dishes prepared la bretonne bretonne garnish of include include a agamish (seeBEAN, of beans beans cooked cooked d la labretonne bretonne (see BEAN, Fresh Fresh white haricot beans). white haricot beans). Thus Thus Leg Leg or orShoulder Shoulder ofmutton of mutton d la (seeMUTTON) Ia bretonne bretonne (see MUTTON) is pot-roasted (some(someis roasted or pot-roasted roasted or times times braised), braised), and and served served with with beans. beans. Pure PurCe bretonne bretonne is is made made of of beans beanscooked cooked d la la bretonne bretonne and and served, served, clarified, clarified, as as a a soup; soup; or or if if aa thicker thicker consistency consistency is is retained, retained, as garnish for as a a vegetable vegetable or or a a gamish for meat. meat. Sauce Sauce bretonne bretonne is poured over poached or is poured over poached or soft-boiled soft-boiled eggs eggs and and braised braised fillets fillets of of fish. fish. This This does does not not contain contain any any beans beans but but is is made made by adding finely by adding finely shredded shredded carrots, carrots, celery celery and and leeks, leeks, lightly lightly tossed in butter, tossed in butter, to veloutC sauce to thick thick velout saucewith wirth cream, cream, or (See SAUCE; or to to white white wine wine sauce. sauce. (See SAUCE; SOLE, SOLE, Sole Sole d la la bretonne.) bretonne.)
BRETONNEAU me for BRETONIYEAU -- An An old old Norman Norman na name for turbot. turbot. BRIE BRIE -- Name Name of province of of an an ancient ancient province France, situated of France, situated to to the the east east of of Paris, Paris, with with the the town town of of Meaux Meaux as as capital. capital. The The province province was was once once divided dividd into into three three regions: regions: Brie Brie champen'oise (Meaux), Brie champenoise (Meaux), (Brie-Comte-Robert) frangaise (Brie-Comte-Robert) Brie franaise and pouilleuse (Chteau-Thierry). (Chdteau-Thierry). These and Brie Brie pouilleuse These regions regions were were part of part government of of the the government of Champagne. Champagne. The name of of Brie Brie is is known known for The name for the prothe excellent excellent cheeses cheeses produced duced there. there. There There are are no no other gastronomical specialities. other gastronomical specialities. The The cuisine cuisine is is the the same same as as that that of of the the Ile-de-France Ile-de-France and, and, therefore, similar similar to to the the one one which which constitutes constitutes the the basis basis of of Parisian cookery. cookery. Brie cheeses. FROMAGES FRoMAGES DE Brle cheeses. DE BRIE BRIE -- In In a a research research dedicated dedicated to to Brie cheeses one reads reads the year 12 the following: Every Every year 12 million million cheeses are are sold in the sold in the dpartement dipartemenr of of Seine-et-Marne. Seine-et-Marne. In In Meaux Meaux alone alone 4,420,000 4,420,0(X) francs' francs' worth worth of of cheese cheese is is sold sold annually; worth. annually; in in Crcy Crecy 1,300,000 1,300,000 francs' francs'worth. There There are are two qualities of two distinct distinct qualities Brie cheeses: of Brie cheeses: skimskimmilk cheeses made, as as their namestates, name states, from skimmed milk, se made and and cream cream chee cheese made from whole cows' cows' milk. The latter (especially the (especially the cheeses cheeses made made in in the region of Nangis the region Nangis with pure whole whole milk drawn drawn twice twie daily, daily, moming morning and and evening) evening) are extremely delicate. delicate. According According to M. Teyssier des Forges, des Forges, ses that it was was these these chee cheeses that were were served at the served at the Congress Congress of of proclaimed 'the best the world'. Vienna and and proclaimed best in the It seems that this estimation estimation of Brie cheeses, cheeses, made made in 1863, 1863, be excellent still holds holds good. good. The still quality continues The quality continues to to be especially where farm cheeses especially where farm cheeses are are concemed, concerned, although although the se, unfortunately, are becoming more and these, and more difficult difficult to find. The Brie dc de Meaux Meaux and Brie de de Coulommiers are best best The Brie and Brie Coulommrers are eaten from from October October to to May. May. The Brie de Melun can can be b~ eaten The Brie de Melun year. (See CHEESE.) CHEESE.) consumed throughout the year. - Drid Dried plum plwn which gets its name name from from the the BRIGNOLE dpartement of Var. It It is used used in in town of Brignoles in the dipartement compotes in the same same way way as as dried apricots apricots and and prunes. prunes. compotes BR ILL. BARBUE BARBUE - Flat Flat sea sea fish, possessing possessing a sirnilarity BRILL. a certain similarity to turbot, from which it differs by its smaller size, size, slightly to more elongated shape, and and by the tiny tiny scales scales which cover is light light and delicate. delicate. Its flesh is its skin. Is

BRESSE BRESSE - The The name name of of this this ancient ancient part part of France France is known throughout the the world world for the the excellence excellence of Bresse Bresse chickens and capons. capons. BRESTOIS - Cake which used to be made in Brest: Brest: Whisk 12 12 eggs eggs and 500 500 g. (18 (18 oz., 2f 2* cups) cups) fine fine sugar sugar over over a low low heat (as for Genoese pastry). Add Add 125 125 g. (4 (4 oz.,l oz., ! cup) sweet sweet blanched blanched almonds almonds pounded in a mortar mortar with with 3 3 whole whole eggs. Flavour Flavour with with a few few drops of lemon essence, essence, a little bitter almond alrnond essence, essence, and and a small srnall glass of Curagao. Curaao. Whisk Whisk the the mixture mixture thoroughly thoroughly and and add add 375 375 glass of g. g. (13 (13 oz., oz., generous generous l| 1t cups) cups) melted melted butter butter and and 375 375 g. g. (13 oz., oz., 3| 3* cups) cups) sieved sieved cake cake flour. flour. Blend Blend well. weil. Put Put the the mixture mixture into into buttered buttered brioche brioche moulds. moulds. Bake Bake in in a a slow cake, if if wrapped wrapped in in foil, foil, will keep keep slow oven. oven. This This type type of cake, in in perfect perfect condition condition for for a a long long time. time. It It is is a a kind kind of of 'travelling 'travelling cake' cake' (gdteau (gteau de de voyage). voyage). BRETON BRETON (Giteau) (Gteau) - This This gdteau gteau was was created created by by Monsieur Monsieur Dubusc, of the the Seugnot Seugnot laboratories. laboratories. Dubusc, chief chief of The The Breton, Breton, made made from from almond almond biscuit biscuit paste, paste, is is assembled assembled by by placing placing different different cakes cakes on on top top of of one one another, another, icing icing each each with with a a different different colour colour fondant fondant icing icing and and then then decorating decorating it. it.

BRETON BRETON FAR. FAR. r.cR FAR BREToN BRETON speciality, speciality, made made commercially. commercially.

Cream flan. flan, a a Breton Breton Cream

Brill

148

BRILL BRILL
crayfish with crayfish Sometimes Sometimes the the fish fish is is glazed glazed by by dotting dotting it it with above butter and heating it it in in the oven, oven, surrounded by by the the above separately. garnish, wittr the sauce served separately. with -

How to divide divide a a brill brjll How

lightly fillets lightly lifting the a brill, brill, lifting dark-skinned side of a on the dark-skinned the fillets dish a fireproof Butter a and seasoning the fish inside inside and out. Butter fireproof dish a tabletablewith a it with brill whole, long enough to take the brill who le, sprinkle it fish. put in in the the fish. and put and parsley, chopped shallots and spoott chopped spoon parsley, and I dl. dl. and 1 wine and white wine cup) white (6 tablespoons, sc{tnt t dl. (6 tablespoons, seant AAO Add t 1 dl. } cup) which stock which fish stock (6 tablespoons, (6 tablespoons, scant * t cup) concentrated fish (q.v.). a fumet of a consistency of to the the consistency down to has fumet (q.v.). has been boiled boiled down pieces and and very small small pieces into very (2 oz., g. (2 cup) butter into oz., t Cut 50 g. Cut 50 * cup) to put in in the the oven oven to fish. Bring to the boil, and put scatter over the fish. scatter
frequently. 15 minutes, basting frequently. for 12 12 to to 15 cook for dish the dish putting the glazcitby nearly cooked, glaze When the brill is nearly it by putting part of the the oven. into the hottest part in to the BARBUE silrces. BARBUE various sauces. with varioll'i poached briU brill with Boiled or or poacbed Boiled (q.v.) of water of water a court-bouillon court'bouillon (q.v.) Make a PocISE -- Make BouILLIE, POCHE BOUILLIE, on the brill brill on proportions. Put Put the in equal proportions. and salted boiled milk in and pour the court'bouillon pan, and the court-bouillon and pour grill in in a a shallow shallow pan, a wire wire grill a impurities the impurities off the it boils, skim skim off When it it. Heat Heat slowly. slowly. When over over it. a with a the brill brill with cover the the liquid, cover of the surface of to the the surface which rise to 12 minutes minutes allowing 12 leave to to simmer simmer very slowly, allowing and leave napkin and (l lb.) g. (l lb.) of of fish. per 500 500 g. cooking time per over and brush brush over thoroughly, and drain the the brill thoroughly, cooked, drain When cooked, boiled with boiled Garnish with serving. Garnish before serving. melted butter butter before with with melted of the the sauces sauces one of with one parsley, and and serve serve with potatoes and fresh parsley, and fresh potatoes (see SAUCE). SAUCE). fish (see for boiled boiled fish recommended for recommended FEMME -soNNE FEMME A LA Ll BONNE BARBLJE femme" BARBUE h bonne bonne femme. Brill Bril n la (4 oz.) g. (4 oz.') thinly thinly I25 g. Bercy, adding adding 125 la Bercy, Brill it la as for for Brill Prepare Prepare as a and a wine and white wine with white and moistening moistening with sliced mushrooms, and sliced mushrooms, (see SAUCE) fish on fish based on SAUCE) based sauce (see Velouti sauce few few tablespoons tablespoons Velout in cooking in finish cooking and finish the stove, stove, and boil on on the Bring to to the the boil stock. stock. Bring Glaze. the the oven. oven. Glaze. BouncuIGNoNNE -A LA r,c. BOURGUIGNONNE BARBUE Brill la bourguignonne. bourguignonne. BARBUE Bdll i la pan put in in a pepper, put a buttered buttered pan and pepper, with salt salt and a brill Season Season a brill with mushglazed onions and small small mushonions and with small small glazed and and surround surround with (* pint,scant (q.v.) and pint, scant 2 2 garni (q.v.) and 4 4 dl. dl. Ct rooms. a bouquet bouquet garni Add a rooms. Add pan and and Cover the the pan preferably Burgundy. Burgundy. Cover cups) red wine, wine, preferably cups) red in the cook cook in the oven. oven. garnish. Boil the Boil down down the and garnish. cooked, and when cooked, Remove the brill when Remove the brill (q.v.). of aa fumet consistency of it reaches reaches the the consistency liquor liquor until until it fumet (q.v.). (see (3 tablespoons) Kneaded butter butter (see tablespoons) Kneaded Blend in 2 2 tablespoons Blend in tablespoons (3 (3oz., g. (3 6 add 75 oz., 6 75 g. minute or or two, two, add for aa minute BUTTER), BUTTER), boil boil for Pour this this and strain. strain. Pour thoroughly, and tablespoons) butter, blend blend thoroughly, tablespoons) butter, sa uce over over the the brill. brill. sauce BRAIsfo -garnishes. BARBUE BARBUE BRAISE various garnishes. Braised with varioll'i Braised brill brill with pan on foundation put it a shallow on aa foundation it in in a shallow pan and put Season brill and Season the the brill in lightly fried frid in which have have been been lightly of ions which and on onions carrots and of sliced sliced carrots parsley and andaa thyme, parsley fish stock, stoclg thyme, butter. concentrated fish Add concentrated butter. Add in a a slow basting cook in slow oven, oven, basting bay and cook the boil, boil, and leaf. Bring Bring to to the bay leaf. frequently. frequently. most is most This is Drain remove the the backbone. backbone. This and remove Drain the the brill brill and wellon aa wellup, on easily placing the fish, dark dark side side up, the fish, by placing easily done done by very fillets with with aavery buttered plate or removing the thefillets dish, removing long plate or dish, buttered long fillets. sharp replacing the thefillets. and replacing the bone, bone,and knife, taking out the taking out sharp knife, youare cover and cover are using, Garnish recipe you using, and in the the recipe as indicated indicated in Garnish as liquor, with added the the braising braising liquor, which has has been been added with aa sauce sauce to to which red with red boiled moistened with Braised brill brill moistened and strained. strained. Braised boiled down doivnand (q.v.), wine of aafumet consistency of wine fish fish stock reduced to to the theconsistency stock reduced fumct (q.v.), garnishes: bourguignonne can bourguignonne following garnishes: can be beserved with the the following served with (seebelow). Brill (see above), below). Brill (see etc.(see mdconnaise, etc. above), Chambertin, Chambertin,mconnaise, garnishes braised oneof ofthe thegarnishes withone braised in wine can can be beserved servedwith in white white wine used recomthoserecomin white white wine, wine, especially especiallythose for fish fish cooked cooked in used for mended mended for forsoles. soles. Brill andtrim trim aabrill brill BARBUE BRANCAS BRANcAs - - Scale Scale and Brill Brancas. Brancas. BARBUE pieces. weighing (l* lb.), into uniforrn uniform pieces. g.(Ii andcut cut into lb.), and 750g. weighing about about750 Put ion, leek toaa heart of ofcelery celeryshredded shredded to andhalf half aaheart anon leekand Putan onion,

incisions a few few incisions Make a LA ssRcv Brill i la Bercy. Bercy. BARBIE BARBUE A LA BERCY - Make

ail the seas of Europe, but the brill This fish abounds in all Atlantic Ocean is of of the greatest gastronomical gastronomical caught in the Atlantic flounder, resembles value. Grey Grey sole, sole, a a species of fiounder, resembles brill. species of value. fiounder, dab and lemon sole can be prepared in the Winter flounder, same way as brill. same making a transverse incision incision under the a transverse Clean the fish by making and trim, dark-skinned side. side. Scale and trim, shortening head on on the dark-skinned head slices or the tail a little. Wash the fish, fish, and cut in half, or in slices fillets. a Brill I'am6ricaine. l'amricaine. BARBUE r'uvrfnlcAlNE L'AMRICAINE - Cook Cook a BARBUE A Brill Brill in for Bri/l recipe for in the as described described in the recipe medium-sized brill brill as (see below). with slices slices of of white wine wine (see below). Drain, and garnish with Drain, and white small'Iobster Lobster LOBSTER). d l'amricaine I'amiricaine (see LOBSTER). small'lobster or Lobster add cooked, and add Boil down the liquor in which the fish was cooked, to it American American sauce (see SAUCE). brill. toit SAUCE). Pour over the brill.

BriJl Brill ri l'amiral I'amiral

Brill and slit Scale and slit BARBLJE A L'AMIRAL t'lMtn^lr, -- Seale Brill I l'amiral. I'amiral. BARBUE (2*-lb.) brill. lengthwise, a l-kg. (2t-Ib.) brill. side, al-kg. lengthwise, on on the dark-skinned side, the dark-skinned Place pour in pan. Season, and pour in Season, and in a Plaoe it it in a buttered buttered shallow shallow pan. white has been boiled down down to to a a which has been boiled white wine wine fish fish stock stock which fumet (q.v.), enough fish. Season. Season. reach the level of of the the fish. to reach the level enough to fumet (q.v.), Bring for 25 25 to place in in a a hot hot oven oven for to cover, and and place Bring to to the the boil, boil, cover, 30 partly cooked, cooked, baste baste has been been partly fish has After the the fish 30 minutes. minutes. After from liquor; if if basted earlier there there its own own liquor; basted earlier from time time with with its time to to time ove is and rem remove When cooked, cooked, drain drain and fish splitting. is a risk of the fish splitting. When of the a risk aU Trim off off the the side side bones. bones. all the the dark dark skin. skin. Trim Place away ail wipe away all care to to wipe on a a serving dish, taking taking care Place on serving dish, liquid. in the Make the oven. oven. Make Heat for for a a moment moment or or two two in liquid. Heat Normande pan, (see SAUCE) liquor in in the the pan, from the the liquor Normanfu sauce SAUCE) from sauce (see which little and had had aa little down, and has been boiled down, been strained, strained, boiled which has Crayfish (see BUTTER) it. added to to it. butter (see BUfiER) added Crayfish butter Garnish and breadcrumbs and in egg and breadcrumbs coated in egg and Garnish with with oysters oysters coated fried, crayfrsh with crayfish filled with shells filled fried, mussels Villeroi, scallop scallop shells mussels d la la Villeroi, tails the browned under under the tails with the the tops tops slightly slightly browned ri la la Nantua Nantua with grill, (q.v.). DecDec' grill, and in court-bouillon court-bouillon (q.v.). cooked in and mushrooms mushrooms cooked orate have been been which have truffie which slices of of truffie brill with with thin thin slices orate the the brill heated pepper. and pepper. with salt salt and in butter and seasoned seasoned with heated in butter and The amiral applies flat Brill d /' applies to to ail all fiat cooking Brill The method I'atniral method of of cooking fish little court-bouillon, court-bouillon, in very very little fish which which are are braised; braise in braised; braise and very weil. well. and flavour flavour the or fumet the stock stock or fumet very 149 r49

BRILL BRILL
julienne (q.v.) (q.v.) into pan with (l OZ., finejulienne into aa pan g. (l with 25 25 g. oz., 2 2 tablespoons) tablespoons) fine pinch of butter and and aa pinch of salt. salt. Cook Cook very very slowly. slowly. When When the the butter vegetables are are about about three-quarters three-quarters donc, done, add add 125 125 g. vegetables E. (4 oz.) oz.) finely finely shredded mushrooms, and shredded mushrooms, and finish finish cooking. cooking. (4 julienne \\is is called called bretonne. bretonne. Thisjulienne is Saut6 aa tablespoon tablespoon chopped chopped onion onion in in butter, butter, and and add add 4 4 Saut peeled, seeded seeded and and chopped chopped tomatoes, tomatoes, togctber together with with a a little little peeled, garlig salt chopped garlic, pepper. Simmer and pepper. salt and Simmer slowly, slowly, stirring stirring chopped from time you get get a time to to time, time, until until you a tomato tomato fondue. Add Add a a smaU small from spoon cbopped parsley. chopped parsley. spoon Butter an an ovenware ovenware dish, dish, sprinkle sprinkle with with salt salt and and freshly freshly Butter ground pepper, pepper, and julienne. Put pour in and pour in half half the the vegetable vegetable julienne. P:ut ground (q.v.) in garni (g.v.) a bouquet bouquet garni in a a corner corner of of the the dish dish so so that that il it can can be be a removed at easily removed at the the end end of of cooking. cooking. Place pieces of Plaoe the the pieces of easily brill on on the the dish dish in in the the shape shape of of the the original original fish, fish, season season with with brill pepper, and julienne. and pepper, salt and and cover cover with with tbe rest of the rest of the the julienne. salt juice and Sprinkle with with a a few few drops drops of of lemon lemon juice and add add 2 2 dl. dl. Sprinkle pint, scant scant cup) cup) white white wine. wine. Scatter Scatter a a few few dabs dabs of butter of butter $ pint, (t on the the surface surface of of the the fish. fish. on Bring slowly slowly to to the place the dish the boil boil on on the the stove, stove, then then place in dish in Bring a slow slow oven oven for for 15 15 to 18 minutes, minutes, basting to 18 basting freguently. frequently. A A a few minutes put a minutes before before the the end end of of cooking, cooking, put a border border of of the the few tomato fondue round the the brill. brill. Return Return the dish to a mueh much the dish to a fondue round tomato hotter oven glazn the oven to the fish. fish. Before Before serving, with sprinkle with serving, sprinkle hotter to glaze parsley. chopped parsley. chopped This way way of of cooking, cooking, cvolved evolved from from the Dugl6r6 method method the Duglr This preparation, can young turbot, of preparation, can be for fish be used used for fish such as young such as turbot, of (U.S. plaice (U fresh cod, sole, whiting, cod, plaice flounder). sole, whiting, fresh .S. flounder). Brill n la h callClllaise. cancalaise. BARBUE BARBT,TE A LA CANCALAISE clNclr,Arsu Cook the the Drill - Cook brill white wine wine as as described in the described in recipe for for Brill the recipe d briU in in white Bril! I'uniral. Drain poached Garnish with with oysters oysters poached Drain thoroughly. thoroughly. Garnish l'amiral. in own liquor, drained, and and with in their their own liguor, drained, with their their beards beards removed. removed. Boil down the liquor in in which the fish fish was cooked, and and add add Boil down the liguor whieh the was cooked, (see SAUCE), to sauce (see SAUCE), which suitable fO( for brill. brill. to Normande Normande sauce which is is suitable Brill cardil1al. BARBTJE CARDtNAL cardinal. BARBUE cARDTNAL the backbone, Remove the backbone, Drill - Remove as described described for for Braised brill with with various Season as Braised brm various garnishes. garnishes. Season the the brill, brill, and and stuff stuff it it with with finely finely poundd, pounded Pike Pike forcemeat forcemeal (see (see FORCEMEAT), FORCEMEA T), to to which which has has been been addd added Lobster Lobster butter or Crayfish Crayfish butter buller (see (see BUTTER). BUTTER). buller or Poach poach the the brill briU in in white white wine, wine, drain, drain, and and garnish garnish with with slices slices of of lobster lobster or or crayfish. crayfish. Cover Cover wfth with Cardinal Cardinal sance sauce 1 (see sauces). Sprinkle (see SAUCE, SAUCE, White White sauces). Sprinkle with with chopped chopped coral. coral. Brill Drill au au Chambertin. Chambertin. BARBUE BARBUE Au AU cHAMBERTTN CHAMBERTtN - Cook Cook the the brill briU in in concentrated concentrated fish fish stock stock made made with with Chambertin Chambertin wine, wine, as as described described for for Brill Brill d Ia l bourguignonne, bourguignonne, making making the the saue sauce with with Chambertin Chambertin instead instead of of Burgundy. Burgundy. Brill Bri/! an au Chambertin Chambertin is is garnished garnishcd with with mushrooms mushrooms which which have been been cooked cooked with with the the fish; fish; brill briU prepared prepared d la l bourbourguignonne is garnished garnished with with mushrooms mushrooms and and small smaU glazed glazed guignonne is onions. on ions. Brill in Clampagne: Cbampagne: il la la champenoise. champenois<!. BARBT,JE BARBUE AU AU Drill in cHAMpAcNE :A the brill CHAMPAGNE: r,iq, LA cu.lrrapnNorsn CHA.\iPENOlSEBone and and stuff stuffthe brill with with - Bone Pike Pike forcemear forcerneat (see (see FORCEMEAT). FORCEM EA T). Season Season with with salt salt and and pepper, pepper, and and place place in in a a fireproof fireproof dish dish on on a a foundation foundation of of julienne julienne (q.v.) (q.v.) of of mushrooms mushrooms which which have have been been lightly lightly tossed tosscd in butter. in butter. Add Add dry dry Champagne, Champagne, scatter scatter small small pieces pieces of of butter butter on on the the fish, fish, bring bring slowly slowly to to the the boil, boil, and and place place in in the the oven oven to to comcomplete plete cooking, eooking, basting basting frequently. frequently. Drain Drain the the fish, fish, and and add add to to the the liquor liquor in in the the dish dish 3 3 tabletablespoons spoons (scant (scant * t cup) cup) Veloutd Velout sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE) SAUCE) based bascd on on (6 fish fish stock, stock, and and 5 5 tablespoons tablespoons (6 tablespoons) tablespoons) cream. eream. Add Add butter butter to to the the sau@, sauce, strain, strain, pour pour over over the the brill, brill, and and glaze glaze in in a a very hot oven oven for for a a few few minutes. minutes. very hot Brill Brill Ch6rubin Cbrubin. BARBIJE BARBUE cnfnusrN CHRUBtN - Season Season the the brill brill with with paprika, paprika, plae place in in a a buttered buttered pan pan on on a a foundation foundation of of a a fine fine salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (g.v.) of of carrots,leeks carrots, leeks and and celery, celery, add add concentrated concentrated fish fish stock, stock, and and cook eook in in the the oven, oven, basting basting frequently. frequently.

Drain the the brill, and surround surround with brill, and with small heaps of Drain small heaps of very very (see FONDUE) thick Tomato Tomato fondue FONDUE) alternating alternating with tbiek with fondue (see truffies cut cut into into large large dice. dice. truffles Boil down down the the liquor liquor in in which which the the fish fish was was cooked cooked to Boil to aa (q.v.), strain, julimne (g.v.) (q.v.) of (red) and add add a a julienne strain, and fumet of sweet sweet (red) fumet (g.v.), pimentos which which have have been been lightly lightly fried fried in in butter. butter. Mix Mix with with pimentos (ser, SAUCE) Hollandnise sauce sauce (see pour it SAUCE) and and pOUT it over Hollandaise over the the briU. brill. Glaze in in a a very very hot hot oven. oven. Glaze Cold brill brill with with VlIrOUS various sauces. stuces. IlARIlUE BARBuE FROID FRorD - Cook Cold Cook the the fish as as described described in in the for Boiled brUI, recipe for the recipe brill, and and leave leave to fish to cool in in the the liguor. liquor. Drain Drain the garnish with the brill brill weil, well, gamish cool with fresh fresh parsley or or lettuce lettuce hearts, hearts, and and serve serve with with mayonnaise mayonnaise or parsley any or any recommended for other sauce sauce recommended for cold cold fish. fish. other Brilt witb with crayfish: crayfish: i la la Nantua. Nantua. BARBUE BARBT.JE AUX lux CRiVISSES: fcnrvrssrs: A Drill LA NANTUA NANTUA - Prepare Prepare as (see below), as Brill Brill with with shrimps LA shrirnps (see replacing shrimps ldrth Nantua shrimps by crayfish crayfish tails, and and covering covering with Nantua replacing (see SAUCE, sauce (see SAUCE, Compound Compound sauces). saaces). Boil Boil down down the liquol sauce the Iiguor and add add to to the the sauce sauce before serving. serving. and gratin BARBUE Brill in in cream cream au au gratin. BARBTJE A LA CRiME cnirr,c AU AU GRATtN Brill GRATTN Prepare as gratin (see (see COD), as Creamed Crearned cod cod au gratin COD), using brill Prepare brill eut cut pieces. into pieees. into Brill la la dieppoise. dieppoise. IlARBUE BARBTJE A LA ra DIEPPOlSE orrpporse BriO Cook whole whole - Cook or filleted filleted brill brill in in white white wine. wine. Drain Drain weil. or well. Garnish Garnish with (cooked in mussels d la dieppol'se (cooked la dieppoise in white white wine) wine) and and peeled shrimps. Pour Pour over (see over the the fish fish White White wine wine sauce sauce / (see shrimps. SAUCE, White White sauces) sauces) to which the to which concentrated pan the concentrated SAUCE, juices have been been added. added. G Glazn in a a very very hot hot oven. juices laze in Brill Duglr. Dugl6r6. BARBUE DUGLR oucrfr.6 pieces Cut the the brill into pieces Drill - Cut and prepare as as described in the (see for.Bass and the recipe for Bass Dugldrd Duglir (see BASS). Brin i la h fermire. fermiCre. BARBUE sA.nsuE A r,A FERMRE reRMdRE Drill LA - Season the brill with salt and and pepper a.buttered with salt pepper and and place place in in a buttcred dish dish on on a (q.v.) made foundation of of a fondue carrots, on fondue (g.v.) made from from carrots, ions, onions, leeks and celery, celery, shredded shredded and and lightly lightly cooked leeks and cooked in in butter. Add a a few tablespoons of Cover the brill with more/ondue. more fondue. Add dry or concentratd dry white wine, wine, or concentrated fish fish stock based on on white wine (see Scatter a (see STOCK, Fish stock'). stock). Scatter a few dabs of butter on on the the fish fish and and cook cook in in a a slow slow oven, basting basting frequently. freguently. (scant t cup) When When the the fish fish is is done, done, add add 3 tablespoons (seant cream. Glaze Glaze in the the oven. oven. Another Another method method is is to put put the the fish fish in in a a buttered buttered ovenovenproof proof dish on on a a foundation of of chopped onion which wlch has has been lightly lightly fried in butter. Cover with sliced mushrooms, moisten moisten with red red wine, and add add a few small smail pieces pieccs of of butter. butter. Cook in the oven. oven. Strain the pan pan juices, juices, bring bring to the the boil, boil, and thicken thicken with kneaded kneaded butter. butter. Add Add a little Iittle fresh fresh butter, butter, stir stir well, weil, and pour this this sauce over the the fish. Glaze G laze in the the oven. oven. Fillets Fillels of brill. briO. FTLETs FILETS DE DE BARBUE BARBUE - Clean, Clean, scale and wash wash the the fish, fish, and fillet by by slitting slitting it it down down the the middle middle from from head head to to tail. tail. Slide SI ide a a sharp sharp knife knife under under the the fillets fillets to to lift lift them, the m, taking taking care care to to sever sever them them completely completeJy from from the the body body of of the the fish. fish. Put Put the the fillets fiUets flat flat on the the table, table, skin skin side down, down, and and slide the the knife knife blade hlade between between the the fish fish and and the the skin, skin, holding holding the the fillet fillet at at one one end end so so as as to to remove remove the the skin skin in in one one piece. piece. All AU methods methods of of preparation preparation for for whole whole brill briU can ean be be applied applied to to fillets. fillets. Fillets Fillels of of brill brill I I'anglaise. l'anglaise. FTLETs FILETS DE DE BARBUE BARBUE A l'^lNcr.tlss L'ANGLA1SE Flatten Flatten the the fillets fillets a a little, little, dip dip in in egg egg and and breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, and and fry fry in in clarified c1arified butter butter until until both both sides sides are are golden. golden. Put Put softened softened Mattre Matre d'hdtel d'htel butter huiler (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters) huI/ers) on on each eaeh fillet. fillet. Decorate Decorate with with half-slices half-slices of of lemon lemon placed placed round round the the border border of of the the dish. dish. Fillets Fillets of of fish fish grilled grilled and and accompanied aceompanied by by melted meltcd butter butter and and boiled boiled potatoes potatoes are are often often served served under under the the name name of of fillets fil lets of of fish fish d l'anglaise. l'anglaise. Filleb Fillels of of brill bril] il il la la cr6ole. crole. FTLETS FILETS DE DE BARBUE BARBUE A r.l LA cnfot.e CROLE Season Season the the fillets fiUets with with salt salt and and paprika, paprika, lightly lightly dredge dredge with with

150

BRILL BRILL

How to fillet brill. How First cut the fish lengthwise, First slide ide the knife along then si detach the fillet the backbone to detach (Larousse) (Larousse)

halved tomatoes Garnish with halved flour and fry in butter or oil. Gamish cooked in oil. Scoop out the centre of each and each half-tomato and (see PILAF). Add fill with pilaf (see Add to to this Rice pilaf a spoonful of Rice spoonful of with a gamish peeled and which have have been been garnish diced sweet pimentos which and diced cooked in oil. Add a parsley to garlic and hot to the the hot and parsley chopped garlic a tablespoon chopped pour oil in the pan, and pour pan, sprinkle the fillets with lemon juice, and the oil over them just before before serving. Fillets t'lNpENNe -DE BARBUE A L'INDIENNE FILETs DE Filleb of brill brill curried. FILETS Season an and put them them into an salt and pepper and Season the fillets with salt (4 oz., g. (4 I cup) cup) 100 g. oz., 1 foundation of of 100 a foundation on a ovenproof dish dish on chopped and seasoned seasoned fried in in butter, and has been been fried chopped onion which has with garlic. Place 4 4 pounded garlic. pinch of pounded and a a pinch curry powder and with curry peeled, and fish, and on the the fish, peeled, seeded chopped tomatoes tomatoes on and chopped seeded and moisten with (| pint, Add a a few few pint, } wine. Add white wine. cup) white with I-!1| dl. dl. (! 3 cup) small pieces pieces of butter. Cook frequently. for 10 l0 minutes, minutes, basting basting frequently. in the oven for Cook in the oven Add 2 dl. in (] pint, Finish cooking cooking in pint, scant cream. Finish cup) thick thick cream. dl. (t scant cup) the d l'indienne l'indienne with Rice Rice Serve with oven, still basting frequently. Serve the oven, (see (see RICE). Fillets rA, or BARBUE sARnuE A LA FILETs DE la Duxelles. Duxelle{L FILETS i la Fillets of of brill brill DUXELLES pepper, lightly lightly and pepper, with salt the fillets fillets with salt and DUxELLEs -- Season Season the dredge and butter. butter. in a a mixture mixture of of oil oil and and fry fry in with flour flour and dredge with Place (q.v.) a duxelles &txelles (q.v.) a foundation foundation of of a dish on on a Place on a serving serving dish on a bound (se SAUCE). with slices Garnish with slices SAUCE). Gamish Tomato sauce sauce (see with Tomato bound with of pour parsley, and and pour with chopped chopped parsley, peeled lemon, lemon, sprinkle sprinkle with of peeled the fish. over the the fish. frying over left from from frying hot butter butter left the hot Fillets RIcHELIEU -DE BARBUE BARBUE RICHELIEU FILETS DE Fillets of of brin brill Richelieu. Richelieu. FILETS Dip in butter and fry fry in butter and breadcrumbs in egg breadcrumbs and Dip the the fillets fillets in egg and until of golden. Garnish with thin thin slices slices of Garnish with are golden. until both both sides sides are truffies butter d'hiltel butter Mattre d'htel of Matre trufles beated dabs of Put dabs heated in in butter. butter. Put on (see BUTTER, Compound butters). butters). BUTTER, Compound on top top (see Fillets rl Ds BARBUE SARBUE A LA FILETS DE la toulonnaise. toulonnaise. FILETS Fillets of of bril1 brill i la TOULONNAISE pepper and and and pepper with salt fillets with salt and TouLoNNAIsE -- Season Season the the fiUets dip sides both sides Fry in in oil oil until until both dip them in egg and breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. Fry them in egg and are (see Tomato fondue golden. Arrange bed of of thick thick Tomato a bed are golden. Arrange on on a fondue (see FONDUE) ion, has has been been chopped on onion, with chopped FONDUE) which, which, together together with cooked garlic. Surround with pinch of pounded garlic. Surround with in oil; a pinch of pounded cooked in oil; add add a diced lemon on put thin of lemon on and put thin slices slices of in oil, fried in oil, and diced aubergines aubergines fried the hot oil. oil. of the a few few tablespoons the hot with a tablespoons of the fillets. Sprinkle with fillets. Sprinkle FiJJets A LA rl or BARBUE nlnsuE FILETs DE la tyrolienne. tyrolienne. FILETS Fillets of of brill britl i la TYROLIENNE paprika, brush brush and paprika, with salt fillets with salt and TvRoLIENNE -- Season Season the the fillets with Tomato a bed of Tomato grill on heat. Arrange Arrange on on a bed of and grill low heat. with oil oil and on low FONDUE) and cover with on ion rings which fondue (see (see which rings with onion and cover FONDUE) fondue have in oil. have been been fried fried in oil.

v6noN -- Cut DE BARBUE BARBUE VRON Cut the the FILETs DE Fillets of brill V V6ron Fillets ron. FILETS of brill pepper, dip and pepper, dip with salt salt and in half half lengthways, lengthways, season season with fillets fillets in more with more and breadcrumbs, sprinkle with in melted melted butter breadcrumbs, sprinkle in butter and grill. Arrange a layer layer a low low grill. Arrange on on a cook under melted melted butter and and cook under a (see SA when serving. serving. of ron sauce UCE) when Viron SAUCE) of V sauce (see a in a A LA r,c, FLORENTINE TToRENTINE -- Cook Cook in BARBUE BriO Brill la florentine. florentine. BARBUE i la Drain, and and arrange arrange on on white wine wine stock. stock. Drain, little little concentrated concentrated white cookd in in which has has been been cooked a leaf spinach a foundation foundation of of leaf spinach which (se SAUCE), sauce (see SAUCE), sprinkle sprinkle butter. with Mornay Mornay sauce butter. Cover Cover with glazn. andglaze. grated cheese melted butter, with cheese and and melted butter, and with grated very cooked in in white white wine; wine; very This is used for fiUets fillets cooked This method method is used for fish, cooking whole whole fish, little When cooking little liquid liquid should be used. used. When should be and trim round all round remove after cooking, cooking and trim all remove the bone aCter the central central bone before it on on the the spinach. arranging it spinach. before arranging in milk, milk, Fried Clean small brill, soak soak in Frid brill. BARBUE FRITE FRIrE -- Clean small brill, brin. BARBUE Drain, in very very hot hot oil. lightly and deep-fry deep-fry in oil. Drain, lightly dredge with flour, flour, and dredge with garnish with fried and gamish with fried dry with fine fine salt, a cloth, cloth, season salt, and in a dry in season with parsley parsley and lemon. and slices of lemon. slices of gratin. BARBUE as described Brill cRATIN -- Proceed Proceed as described BARBUE AU AU GRATIN Brill au au gratin. (see SOLE), gratin (see brill. in using small small brill. in the the recipe recipefor for Sole SOLE), using Sole au au gratin Grilled few shallow cntrr6s -- Make Make aa few shallow SA.RBUE GRILLE Grilled brill. brill. BARBUE pepper, brush incisions and pepper, brush with salt season with salt and incisions on on the the brill, brill, season with fresh grill on low heat. heat. Gamish Garnish with with fresh and grill on low with oil oil or or butter butter and parsley on, and Maitre d'htel d hitel and serve tvith Matre parsley and lemon, servewith and slices of lem slices of (see BUTTER, butter any sauce butters) or or any sauce Compound butters) BUTTER, Compound butter (see recommended grilled fish. fish. recommended for for grilled Jellied LA garnishes. BARBUE BARBUE GLACE GLAcfE ALA variors garnishes. brill with witr various Jellied brill GELE based in aa little little concentrated concentrated stock, stock, based curtn -- Cook Cook the the brill brill in either nature of on the the nature of the the wine, depending depending on red or white wine, either on on red or white dish. liquor. Dry Dry and and in its its own own strained Allow it it to to cool cool in strained liquor. dish. Allow jelly (see (see JELL trim Y). clarified jelly JELLY). coat it it with with clarified and coat trim the the brill, brill, and (see Ali salmon (see garnishes recommended for Cold Cold salmon recommended for All garnishes SALMON) applied to to bril!. brill. SALMOI',D can can be be applied Brill Boneaa A LA u, MCONNAISE UAcowNAISE - - Bone sARsuE t la la mconnaise. mf,connaise. BARBUE Brill medium-sized not to tearthe white skin. skin. to tear care not the white taking care medium-sized brill, brill, taking Season, dry forcemeat mixed mixed with with dry with fish and stuff flsh forcemeat Season, and stuff with duxelles (q.v.) and parsley. chopped parsley. duxelles (q.v.) and chopped (M6con) Cook red (Mcon) on red fish stock stock based basedon in concentrated concentrated fish Cook in wine, Brill dla bourguignonne. recipefor for Brill la bourguignonne. in the the recipe wine, as as described described in Drain dish. Surround Surround and arrange arrangeon onaadish. Drain the the brill brill thoroughly thoroughly and with havebeen been fried fried in in butter butterand and white cpes cipes which which have with small small:white seasoned asdescribed described with aasauce sauoeas Cover with with small shallots.Cover seasoned with smallshallots. in Simmersmall small Brill d la bourguignonne.Simmer for Brill la bourguignonne. in the recipefor the recipe artichokes (q.v.) of /a oftruffles trufles rila fill with with aasalpicon salpicon (q.v.) in butter, butter, fill artichokes in crme, place round fish. roundthe the fish. andplace the top, top, and crirhe, brown brown the

151 l5l

BRILLAT-SAVARIN BRILLA T -SA VARIN

Brilltla lamarinire. mariniCre. BARBUE BARBUE A r-,q umm$nr - prepare like Brill LA MARINIRE - Prepare like Brillin (see below). Garnish d la mariniire (see inwhite whitewine wine(see Brill below). Garnish la marinire (see GARNISHES) and cover with Marinire Mariniiresauce sauce(see irr. GARNISHES) and coyer with SAUCE). SAUCE). Brill t la lamnagre. m6nagire. BARBUE BARBUE ALA rl MNAGRE ufNlcins- -Season Seasonthe the Brill fish with withsalt pepper,and saltand and pepper, placein andplace inan anovenproof ovenproof dish dishon on fish foundationof chopped onions, ofchopped onions,lightly lightly fried friedin inbutter butterand and aafoundation seasoned with pounded thyrne and bay leaf. Moisten with red seasoned with pounded thyme and bay leaf. Moisten with red wine and cook in a covered pan. and cook in a covered pan. wine When the the brill brill is isready, ready,arrange arrangeon onaadish dishand andthicken thicken the the When juices with kneaded butter. Bring to the boil, add a pan juices pan with kneaded butter. Bring ta the boil, add a little fresh fresh butter, butter,and pour over andpour overthe the fish. fish. little Brill Mornay. Mornay. BARBUE BARBUE MORNAY MoRNAy - - Cook Cook flllets fillets of of brill brill in in Brill concentrated fish fish stock stock and and arrange arrange on on aadish dish \ined lined with with concentrated Mornay sauce (see SAUCE). sauce(see SAUCE). Coyer Cover with withsorne some of of the thesame same Mornay sprinkle with with aa mixture mixture of grated Gruyre of grated Gruybreand and sauce, lauce, sprinkle Parmesan cheese, cheese, add add melted melted butter, butter,and andbrown brownthe thetop. top. Parmesan Brill with with muslU'ooms. mushrooms. BARBUE BARBUE AUX Ar.rx CHAMPIGNONS cHAMprcNoNS - - Cook Cook Brill the brillbrill - whole, whole, in in fillets fillets or or cut cut in in pieces pieces -- in inaaconcentrated concentrated the white wine fish fish stock. Drain thoroughly, stock. Drain thoroughly, arrange arrangeon onaadish, dish, white wine garnish with and garnish with mushrooms. mushrooms. Serve Serve with with White lAhite wine winesauce sauce 1 I and (see SAUCE), incorporating the liquor in which the fish (see SAUCE), incorporating the liguor in which the fish was cooked. cooked. was Brill with with mussels. mussels. BARBUE BARBT.TE AUX AUx MOULES MouLEs -- Cook Cook the the brill brill BriU in a a \ittle little concentrated concentrated fish fish stock. stock. Drain, Drain, arrange arrange on on a a dish, dish, in and surround surround with with mussels mussels which which have have been been cooked cooked in in and white wine. wine. Coyer Cover with with white white wine wine sauce, sauce, or or Normande Normande white (ser-, SAUCE) which has incorporated the liquor in sauce (see sauce SAUCE) which has incorporated the liguor in which the the fish fish and and the mussels were the mussels were cooked. cooked. which Brill i la la normande. normande. BARBUE BARBUE A LA Nonu,lNDE -- Cook u NORMANDE Cook the the Brill in a brill in a little little concentrated concentrated fish fish stock. Drain, arrange stock. Drain, arrange on on a a brill dish, and and surround surround with garnish with garnish (see GARNd la la normande normande (see GARNdish, ISHES). Coyer Cover with with Normande Normande sauce (see SAUCE), sauce (see SAUCE), to to ISHES). which has has been added the been added the boiled-down boiled-down liguor liquor in in which which the the which fish was was cooked. cooked. fish The method preparation known of preparation known as as d la Ia normande is is The method of also applied applied to plaice and sole. to turbot, turbot, plaice so!e. also Brill oysters. BARBUE BARBUE AUX nux HUTRES nuirnns Cook the the brill brill in in BriJl wtth with oysters. - Cook a little concentrated white white wine wine fish stock. Drain, and garnish and garnish a little concentrated with oysters. Add a white wine sauce to to the the Iiguor liquor with poached poached oysters. Add a in brill and and the the oysters oysters were were cooked, and and pour in which which the the brill over over the the fish. fish. proceed as described Brill suR LE BARBUE SUR LE pr.lr PLAT Brill srr sur le le plat. plat. BARBT.JE - Proceed in for Sole Ie plat in the the recipe recipe for Sole sur le plat (see (see SOLE), using using small brill. Bri[ BriJJ n h la portugaise. portugaise. BARBUE BARBUE A re LA ponrucArsr PORTUGAISE Proceed - proceed as as described described in in the recipe for for Bass Bass d la portugaise portugaise (see (see BASS). BASS). BriU .Bass Brill n h la provengale. provenale. snnsuE BARBUE A r.c, LA pRovBNgALE PROVENALE - As Bass d la la provengale provenale (see (see BASS). Brill BriJJ in in red red wine. wine. BARBUE BARBUE AU AU vrN VIN Roucn ROUGE - Cook Cook the brill in a concentrated fish fish stock based based on on red red wine. wine. Drain. Drain, a little little concentrated and and arrange arrange on on a dish. dish. Make Make a a red red wine sauce, incorporating incorporating the liquor liguor in which which the Thicken with with kneaded kneaded butter. butter, or blend the fish fish was was cooked. cooked. Thicken with with Espagnole Espagnole sauce sauce based based on on fish fish stock (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Add Add a a little little butter, butter, strain, strain, and and pour pour over over the the brill. brill. Brin h la russe. russe. BARBUE BARBUE A u, LA Russr RUSSE - As As described described in in the the Brill t recipe Sole d la la russe russe (see (see SOLE), SOLE), using using medium medium brill. brill. recipe fot for Sole BriJJ in in scallop scaUop shells. shells. coeurI,r,Es COQUILLES DE DE BARBUE BARBUE - pipe Pipe a - BriU border border of of Duchess Duchess potato patata mixture mixture (see (see POTATOES) POT ATOES) round round the the edges edges of ofscallop scallop shells. shells. Cover Coyer the the centre centre of of the the shells shells with with Mornay Mornay sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE), SAUCE), add add small small slices slices of of hot hot brill, brill, and and cover coyer with with more more Mornay Mornay souce. sauce. Scatter Scatter grated grated cheese cheese on on top, top, sprinkle sprinkle with with melted melted butter butter and and brown brown the the top. top. Brill Brill with with shrimpe. slU'imps. BARBUE BARBUE Aux AUX cREvErrss CREVETTES - Cook Cook the the brill brill in fishfumet (q.v.).Drain, (g.v.). Drain, and and garnish garnish the the inaa little little white white wine wine fishfumet sides sides with with peeled peeled shrimps. shrimps. Boil Boil down down the the liquor liguor in in which which the the brill brill was was cooked, cooked, add add Shrimp Shrimp sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SA UCE) and and pour pour over overthe thefish. fish.
152 t52
Parisian mushrooms (Plrol. Nicolas)

Brill strffedwith with salmon, with variorn garnishes. sauces BriU shrlfed salmon, with various sauces and garnishes. and Cleana abrill weighing brillweighing about 22 kg. about kg. - Clean (4+lb.) lb.)and andslit slitititlengthwise lengthwisedown down themiddle middle (41the on the dark the on dar-k side.Remove Removethe thecentral centralbone bonethrough throughthis side. thisopening, opening, takingcare carenot notto totear tearthe the whiteskin. skin. white taking Season,and andstuff stuffthe thebrill brillwith witha acream cream forcemeatmade forcemeat Season, made ofsalmon salmonand andtruffies. trufres.Lay Laythe thefish of aa buttered fishin in butteredovenproof ovenproof dish,season, season,moisten moistenwith (fpint, with44 pint,scant dl.(-idish, dl. cups) white scant22 cups) white (q.v.)and winefish fish/rmet poachgently andpoach gentlyin wine fumet (g.v.) oyen inthe the ovenwith withthe the lidon onthe thedish. dish. lid Whenthe thebrill brillisiscooked, cooked, drain, drain,dry a acloth, arrange When dryin in cloth,and and arrange juices,add onaadish. dish.Boil Boildown downthe thejuices, addto on and tonormande normandesauce, sauce. and pourover overthe thefish. fish. pour All methods methods of preparation given ofpreparation givenfor Ail forbrill brilland andsole sole poached in inwhite whitewine winecan canbe beapplied poached appliedto tothis thisdish, dish,for forwhich which thefollowing following garnishes garnishes are aresuitable: the suitable:amiral, amiral,cancalaise, cancalaise, cardinal, champenoise, champenoise,diplomate, diplomate, Nantua, cardinal, Nantua,normande, normande, Polignac, Victoria. Victoria. Polignac, Stuffd briO brill with garnishes.BARBUE withvarious various garnishes. Stuffed BARBT.JE FARCIE FARcTE- -Bone Bone the brill brill as asdescribed described in in the the therecipe recipefor forBrill Brillstuffed stuffedwith with salmon.Stuff Stuff with withFish Fish forcemeat (seeFORCEMEAT). salmon. FORCEMEAT). forcemeat (see Poachin inaalittle littleconcentrated concentrated fish Poach fishstock. stock. Drainthe thefish, fish,arrange arrange on Drain onaadish, dish,surround surroundwith withthe thechosen chosen garnish, and pourover and pour garnish, overit it aasauce goes weil sauce that thatgoes wellwith with the the garnish. garnish. All the the methods methods given given for Ali iII in for Braised Braised br brill redor inred orwhite whitewine wine can be applied to be applied can to stuffed stuffed brill. brill. Brill I vnitienne. v6nitienne. BARBUE BriJJ BARBUE A LA u VNITIENNE vENTTTENNE - - As AsSole Soledla Ia (see SOLE). vinitienne (see vnitienne SOLE). Briil n la h Victoria. Victoria. BARBUE BriJJ BARBUI A LA r,c.VICTORIA vrcronrn - - Cook Cook the thebrill brill as described describedfor as for Brill Brill in in white (s* below). white wine wine (see below). Drain, Drain, arrange on arrange on aa dish, dish, and garnish with and garnish with aa salpicon (q.v.) of salpicon (g.v.) of the the (U.S. crayfish) flesh of flesh of spiny spiny lobster lobster (U.S. crayfish) and and truffies. truffies. Coyer eover with with Victoria sauce (se SAUCE). Victoria sauce (see SAUCE). Glaze Glaze in in the the oyen. oven. Brill Brill in in white white wine. wine. BARBUE BARBUE AU AU vIN vrN BLANC BLANc -- Season Season the the brill brill place in and place and in a a buttered pan with buttered pan with a a thinly thinly sliced sliced onion onion and and aa garni (g.v.). (q.v.). Moisten bouquet garni bouquet Moisten with with aa few few tablespoons tablespoons white white wine, or wine. or with with concentrated concentrated fish fish stock stock based based on on white white wine wine and boiled and boiled down down to to the the consistency consistency of (q.v.). Cook of a a fumet Cook fumet (g.v.). on low heat on low heat with with the lid on the lid pan. on the the pan. Drain Drain the the brill, brill, arrange arrange on on a a dish, dish, and and coyer cover with with White White (see SA wine sauce (see UCE), using SAUCE), using as as a a basis basis the liquor in the liguor in which which the fish fish was was cooked. cooked. The The brill brill can can be be served served as as it it is, glazed is, or or glazed quickly in guickly in a a very very hot hot oyen oven or or under grill. under a a hot hot grill.
BARBUE SAUMoNEE BARBUE SAUMONE -

Jean Anthelme Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin Brillat-Savarin

Paris in in 1826. 1826. Paris He started started his his career career as as a a lawyer lawyer at at the the Court Court of of Belley, Belley, He deputy of of the the National National Assembly Assembly in in 1789, 1789, was was made made became deputy became mayor and and commander commander of of the the National National Guard Guard of of Belley Belley in in mayor

politician and and gastronome, gastronome, born born at at Belley Belley in in l?55, 1755, died died in in politician

BRILLAT-SAV AR IN (Jean (Jean Anthelme) Anthelme) - French magistrate, BRILLAT-SAVARIN - French magistrare,

v'
4v

BRIOCHE BRIOCHE
1793, 1793, was was banished banished during during the the Reign Reign of Terror, Terror, fled fled to Switzerland, then then spent spent three three years as a refugee refugee in America. America. Switzerland, He returned to to France in September,1797, September, 1797, had his name name He returned removed removed from from the the list list of imigris, migrs, became became first first a a commissioner to the the army in Germany Germany under Augereau, then missioner commissioner at the court of the ddpartement dpartement of Seine-etcommissioner member of of the Supreme Supreme Court of of Appeal. Appeal. Oise, then th en member Oise, subjects He published various pamphlets, political and on subjects of law, law, but but his lasting lasting fame rests rests on a gastronomical gastronomical work on of which was published which he had long been engaged, and which got. shortly before his death, la Physiologie du goftt.

(Method of preparing meat) - Lamb Lamb BRILLAT-SAVARIN (Method and mutton mutton noisettes, noisettes, with with a a garnish gamish of duchess duchess potato and (q.v.), filled filled with with a a salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) of foie foie gras, cassolettes (q.v.), truffies, and green green asparagus tips tips in in butter. Also Aiso the name of of a trufles, Normandy (see page page 210). 210). cheese made in Normandy BRINDE - Old French word for a two-handled wine-cup. BRINDE to which which is is often sea salt, salt, to BRINE. SAUMURE Solution of sea sAUMURE - Solution added sugar, sugar, saltpetre and and aromatics. Preserving mixture added for foodstuffs. LIQUIDE Liquid brine. SAUMURE s^q.uuuRE LIeUIDE - For pickled tongues and (4t quarts, 5t quarts) pressed beef. Boil in a large pan 5 litres (4} pressed (ll oz., g. (II l] cups) brown 2t ke.(5 kg. (5 lb.) rock salt, oz., It salt, 300 g. water, 2I juniper (5 oz.) peppercorns, 15 15 juniper sugar, 150 g. (5 15 peppercorns, 150 g. oz.) saltpetre, 15 sugar, berries, a a sprig of thyme and a bay leaf. leaf. Boil for for 25 25 minutes berries,
and leave to cool. Prick the tongues, and place and saltpetre, saltpetre, and Prick tongues, rub with salt salt and in Pour in in the brine, and coyer cover the the receptacle in a a receptacle. Pour brine, and wood, pressing it weil with a well down down on on the the a piece of smooth wood, tongues. Keep in a place for for six in summer, six days in summer, eight tongues. a cool 'place in ter. in win winter. Full pickle for cRANDE SAUMURE SAUMUR-E for various various meats. meats. GRANDE Full brine pickle (5t gallons, Pour gallons, 7 gallons) water into a a large water into 7 gallons) litres (51 Pour 25 25 litres

salt, l+ l2l ke. add12i copper vessel vessel and and add kg. Q7i (27} lb.) lb.) rock rock salt, 11 kg. kg. sugar. cups) brown (3 (3 lb.) lb.) saltpetre and and 800 800 g. g. (li (l lb., lb., 3+ 3-t cups) brown sugar. Bring to the boil on a a strong heat. peeled potato into a peeled To test test the density of the brine, brine, put put a potato into and is too of salt is it. If If the potato potato floats, the proportion proportion of too high high and to the sinks to if the the potato more should be more water water should be added; added; if potato sinks potato the potato down until bottom, bot tom, the the liquid liquid should be be boiled boiled down until the remove the the is suspended in the middle. When this is achieved, remove and leave to cool. brine from the heat and which with a a long Prick the meat to to be be preserved with long needle which place in in a a and place with saltpetre saltpetre and in salt salt mixed with has been rubbed in grille at for the at the bottom for a grille the bottom brine which should have a brine tub, which quite cold. it is is quite when in the the brine brine wh meat stand on. on. Pour meat to to stand Pour in en it 4 to meat weighs 4 if the the meat least 8 8 days days if at least Leave to pickle Leave to pickle for at into inject (81 to are used, used, in If larger cuts are lb.). If kg. (8t to I IlI lb.). ject brine into 5 kg. a special pump. the meat with a
yeast dough, usually in in the from yeast made from BRIOCHE BRIOCHE - Cake made as a pressed into into the a the top top as a sm ball pressed a bail smaller ball with a shape of a aller bail 'head'. yeast until until the with baker's yeast Brioches were were made in Paris Paris with made in Brioches yeast, which had had eighteenth century. Brewer's yeast, middle of the eighteenth was Austria, was and Austria, in Poland Poland and for a a long long time time in in use use for been been in when the of court of the court Lorraine when and Lorraine into Alsace Alsace and introduced into introduced of The brioches Lun6ville. The brioches of to Lunville. King Stanislas was transferred to were centres, were marketing centres, great butter butter marketing and Gournay, Gournay, great Gisors and Gisors brioches: for Gisors gives a a recipe for Sansvoisin gives famous. famous. Sansvoisin Make a a baking. Make night before before baking. 'The dough is made made the the night dough is 'The g. 250 g. (lf Mix 250 and 7 7 eggs. eggs. Mix cups) flour and g. (1 lb., 7 7 cups) 750 g. dough of 750 i lb., (1 oz.) yeast. Mix with the the g. (t Mix with oz.) yeast. (9 oz., 10 g. with 10 cups) flour with (9 21 cups) o2.2* Keep g.(lt butter. Keep cups) butter. 1b.,3+ with 750 750 g. dough, (Ii lb., 3-!- cups) dough, together with in a a bowl. the dough in just before 'When ready into brioches brioches just shape into for baking, baking, shape ready for 'When in the the oven.' oven.' them in putting them given under heading are given under the the heading Various brioche doughs are brioche doughs Various

Brioches Brioches
(ScamGfi) (Scarnati)

153 153
Cauliflower Cauliflower polonaise (Phol. (Phot. Nicolas) i la /a polonaise Nicolas)

BRIOLET BRIO LET

DOUGH. For For the preparation of the preparation various hors-d'uvre hors-d'euvre and and of various DOUGH. (See small hot hot entre entrie dishes, dishes, a a standard standard brioche brioche is is made. made. (See small BRIOCHE DOUGH DOUGH 1 I aod and II.) II.) BRIOCHE pAm Standard brioche brioche dough. dough. PTE I BRIOCHE BRrocHE COMMUNE coMMUNE -Standard Proceed as as described described in in the (see recipe for the recipe for Brioche Brioche dough dough (see Proceed DOUGH). DOUGH). pArs Dough for for brioche brioche mousseline. mousseline. PTE A BRIOCHE BRrocrrE MOUSSELINE MoussELrNE Dough (see DOUGH), Make a a Brioche Brioche dough dough (see (14 oz., DOUGH), using g. (14 using 400 4ffi g. oz., -- Make (18 oz., lf, cups) g. (18 cups) butter and 500 butter and 500 g. 4t cups) cups) fioUL g. oz., 41 flour. Add Add 60 60 g. l(2| oz., o2.,5 tablespoons) softened (l lb.) g. (1 softened butter butter to to each each 500 lb.) 500 g. (21 5 tablespoons) dough. dough.

::':::

Brioche mousseline Brioche mousseline

Fruit briochin. briochin. BRIOCHIN BRrocHrN AUX Fruit Aux FRUITS FRUrrs -- Line Line a aflan flan ring ring with with firm brioche brioche dough, dough, adding adding aa layer (q.v.). firm layer of frangipane (q.v.). of frangipane Steep sliced Steep sliced or or diced diced fruit fruit in in liqueur, liqueur, place place on on the frangipane, the frangipane, and cover cover with and with brioche brioche dough. dough. Leave Leave to rise for for an to rise an hour, hour, brush with with beaten beaten egg, brush egg, and and bake bake in in a a fairly fairly hot hot oven. oven.

en couronne couronne Brioche en

en couronne Roll brioche dough dough into into a a round round Brioche en - Roll place on loaf, place on a a baking baking sheet sheet in in the the shape shape of a crown, of a crown, and loaf, and a few light incisions on on the surface. Brush Brush with with beaten make a egg and and bake bake in in a a moderate oven. egg

Brioche ti tte t0te

Brioche Goubard Brioche Goubard

Brioche Goubard Goubaud - Line a buttered cake tin with brioche dough. dough. Roll Roll out out another another piece piece of dough, pieces, dough, cut cut into pieces, moulding them them into little little pies. pies. Stuff them them with a salpicon with a (q.v.) of preserved preserved fruit which which has has been steeped steeped in rum rum or liqueur. liq ueur. Fill Fi]] the cake tin with the pies, leave to rise in a warm place, place, brush with beaten egg egg and bake. bake. When removed from the the oven, brush brusb the pie-tops with diluted apricot apricot jam. Brioche mousseline mousseline - This is baked baked in a tall mould, mould, further heightened heigh tened by by buttered greaseproofpaper greaseproof paper tied tied round round top. Butter and three-parts fill it with Mousseline Mousseline Butter the mould and brioche brioche dough dough (see DOUGH). Leave to rise and and bake in a moderate moderate oven. oven. Cheese BRIOCHE AU AU FRoMAGn FROMAGE - Dice Dice or or grate Cheese brioche. brioche. BRrocr{E 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz.) Gruydre Gruyre cheese, cheese, and knead into 2 kg. kg. (+| (41 lb.) ordinary ordinary dough. dough. Leave Leave to to rise, rise, and bake bake in in a buttered mould. mould. Filled. la boh6mienne. bohmienne. snlocHEs BRIOCHES cARNrEs GARNIES A LA Filled. brioches brioches I BoH6MIENI.IE BOHMIENNE - Small brioches, brioches, three-quarters three-quarters scooped scooped out and and filled filled with with various various mixtures: mixtures: mousses, mousses, pur6es, pures, salpicons, salpicons, etc. etc.

Large Large brioche brioche i tte. t6te. GROSSE cRossE BRIOCHE A TTE r0rs -- Roll BRrocHE Roll a a piece of brioche dough piece into a place in dough into a baIl in a ball and and place a buttered buttered mould. Make a a hole hole in in the the dough dough and into it it a and put into a small small ball ball of the dough, tapered point. Make a a point. tapered to a a few few light light incisions incisions on on the the surface of the dough, dough, brush brush with beaten egg egg and and bake bake in a a hot oven. pETrrEs BRIOCHES SmaII Small brioches. brioches. PETITFS BRrocHEs -- Bake Bake in in small small fluted fluted moulds in the the same as Large brioche same way as tte. d tte. BRIOLET Slang word word synonymous with with another another slang slang - Slang word, piquette (i.e., (i.e., wine of poor quality). quality). An An allusion allusion to to a a Brie wine which is is rather mediocre. BRIOU BRIOLI (Corsican cookery) prepared in meal, prepared in - Chestnut meal, the same way as as polenta, with the addition of milk or cream. cream. BRIONNE BRIONI\E Name for for chayote, chayote, a a vegetable vegetable of of the the - Name Cucurbitaceae Cucur bit aceae family. famrly. (See CHAYOTE.) CHAYOTE.) BRISSE (Baron) BRISSE Author of of culinary culinary works which whic-h were oot not @aron) - Author always accurate. always accurate. His books include la la Cuisine Cuisine d l'usage l'usage des des mnages bourgeois bourgeois et des petits mnages, la Pettte Petite cuisine minages et des cuisine du du mdnages,la 366 menus, ail published in the baron Brfsse Biisse and and,366 menus,all the latter latter part of of the nineteenth ceotury. bad a tic style, century. He had high-flown roman romantic a high-flown style, speaking of of turkeys 'in blossom', aod speaking and is is remembered remembered for for his his curiosity value value rather rather than for gastronomy. curiosity INTERNATIONAL COOKERY. COOKERY. BRITAIN - See See INTERNATIONAL BRITAIN

154 t54

BRITTAbIY BRITTANY

A Breton Breton farmhouse farmhouse (Fren (French Governmen/ Tourist Touris/ Ofice) Office) A ch Government

Sampling Sampling the the culinary culinary specialities specialities of of Brittany Brittany (French (French Government Governmen/ Tourist Touris/ Ofice) Office)

BRITTANY. BRETAcNE BRETAGNE - Choice food products products are found BRITTAhIY. in abundance in Brittany, whether they originate in the the sea sea or on land. Excellent sheep (notably 'salt-meadow' 'salt-meadow' sheep)
ca ttle are raised. and cattle Breton larder is is well weil stocked with all ail sorts of foods The Breton and all ail of first-class quality. Let Let us us grve give a rapid survey of and these. these. oysters, Among the seafoods are are Cancale and Morbihan oysters, and oysters found found in in the the rivers rivers Auray Auray and and Belon; clams, clams, and oysters cockles, winkles, onners, ormers, haliotes, spiny lobsters, lobsters, scallops, winkles, cockles, scallops, conger eels (which are cra bs, shrimps, eels (which sardines, conger Lorient sardines, crabs, shrimps, Lorient made into cotriade, cotiade, so popular with the Breton fishermen), made soles, soles, turbot, brill, plaice, mackerel, herrings, tunny. The ri vers produce pike, carp, trout, eels, the Odet eels, shad; the rivers good quality; and is of good Meat is famous. Meat are famous. and Aulne Aulne salmon salmon are mutton and pork are are excellent.

Among Among the poultryparticular poultry-particular mention mention should be be made made of of ducklings and succulent succulent young young turkeys. Ground Ground the Nantes ducklings and winged game are famous. Roscoff Roscoff cauliflowers cauliflowers and and artichokes artichokes are are sent sent to to the the markets markets of London London and and Paris. Paris. Breton potatoes potatoes must must be be mentioned, mentioned, and and Plougastel Plougastel strawberries strawberries and and apples apples are are noteworthy. noteworthy. Cider is the usual drink BeveragesBeverages - Cider drink of of the Bretons. Among Among are those the famous famous growths growths are those of of Pleudihen, Pleudihen, Fouesnant, the Saint-F6r6ou. Clohars and Saint-Frou. dry white The Loire-Atlantique The Loire-Atlantique produces an an excellent excellent dry white young: the The name drunk young: wine, best the Muscadet. Muscadet. The wine, best drunk a variety of of vine, the 'Muscadet' is is the local appellation for for a the Burgundy introduced into was introduced 'melon', that was into Brittany from from Burgundy are two Muscadets, that in the the seventeenth century. There are in that the Loire. and that of the banks of the of Svres-et-Maine Sdvres-et-Maine and

NOR. MANDY

st FrNlsTt

COTES - DU:

ffii
ATLANTIC ATLANTIC OCEA
~ Vineyards
Brittany mapof of Brittany Gastronomie Gastronomic map 155 155

;;,,H';ilt"
blonc. Flit cakes. 6urlli

-#i("fr'"{
'gg'

BROCCIO BROCCIO
The region of of Nantes Nantes also producesaaV.D.Q.S., alsoproduces V.D.e.S., the thebest best The region of the wines, very dry with withaa hint hintof ofacidity acidity which whichis is much much of the wines, very dry appreciated byconnoisseurs. connoisseurs. It It is isan anexcellent excellent accompaniaccompaniappreciated by ment for fish and shellfish. ment for fish and shellfish. Culinary specialities specialities - The The best best known known are areCornouaille Cornouaille Culinary
2.A A mixture mixture of vegetables, such ofvegetables. such as ascarrOIs, carrots, onions, onions, Ieeks, leeks, 2. celeryand and sometimes sometimes turnips turnipsslowly slowly cooked in butter. cooked in This butter.This celery sort of of brunoise brunoiseis is used usedfor for making making soups soupsor or as asaasupplesupplesort mentaryelement element for for certain certain forcemcats, forcemeats, sauces and sauces and mentary (q.v.). salpicons (q.v.). salpicons 3. A A mixture mixture of of vegetables vegetables eut cut into into small dice which which is is small dice 3. an aromatic used as as an aromatic element element for for crayfish crayfish and and other other dishes. dishes. used (SeeCRAYF1SH, CRAYFISH, TRUFFLES.) TRUFFLES.) (See

buckwheat and bacon soup; cotriade - the soup of the Breton buckwheat and bacon .lOUp; cotrinde - the soup of the Breton fishermen similar similar to (q.v.) of to the the chaudre chaudrCe (q.v.) of the the Aunis Aunis sailors; sailors; fishermen Morlaix Hams; liams; Ancenis Ancenis andouilles andouilles and andsausages, sausages, large large Morlaix anQuil!9s de de Bretagne; excellent black puddings; euimperl6 andouilles Bretagne; excellent black puddings; Quimperl andouilletes; pike pike au an beurre beurre blanc; blanc; shad shad d la la crme; crdme; Nantes Nintes andouille/es; bacon; roast leg of of salt-meadow salt-meadow lamb lamb with with beans beansca called,d Ia bacon; roast leg lied ' fa br e tonne' ; buckwhe at g ir dle cak es and pancakes ; euimperlO bretonne'; buckwheal girdlecakes and pancakes; Quimperl oat loaf loaf d la la crme; uime; Quimper pancakes; Morlaix Morlaix brioches; brioches; Quimper pancakes; oal Lorient and and Quimper cakes; Ren (a kind Rennes mingaux (a kind of of Quimper cakes; Lorient nes mingaux cream cheese cheese similar similar to to the the Saumur Saumur crmets); crimets); Nantes Nantes fiai /al cream guillarets; biscuits. cakes and and guillarels; biscaits. cakes BROCCIO See CHEESE. BROCCIO -- See CHEESE.

BROCCOU. cgor.x BROCOLIS BRocoLF - The The flower flower heads heads whieh which BROC COLI. CHOUX develop in in the the leafaxils leaf axils are are eaten eaten before before they grown. they are are fully fully grown. develop They are also called broccoli tips. All methods of preparation They are aJso caUed broccoli tips. Ail methods ofpreparalion given for cauliflower cauliflower apply apply to to broccoli. broccoli. given for The fiower in this flower in this type type of cabbage is generally very of cabbage is generally very smal!. small. The Broccoli is is also also eaten for its eaten for its leaves leaves as as weil well as as its its fiowers. flowers. Broccoli BROCKET. DAGUET DAcuEr - The The na name given to young stag, to a a young stag, BROCKET. me given year and between one one year and eighteen eighteen months months old. The French old. The French between name dague/ daguet comes comes from from dague, dague, dagger, dagger, and and refers refen to to the the name young stag's shape of of the the young stag's horns. horns. shape In cookery, ail all recipes recipes for (q.v.) are for roebuck roebuck (q.v.) are suitable suitable for for ln cookery, brocket. brocket. BROOKLIME. sscclBuNcA - This plant is This plant is also also called called BROOKLIME. BECCABUNGA water pimpernel. is a a kind kind of of European European cress cress which water pimpernel. It is which grows wild on the banks of streams and ponds. grows wild on the banks of streams and ponds. It is eaten in salads like like watercress watercress and and can Il is eaten in salads can be be prepared prepared in all the (see CRESS). suitable for in ail the ways ways suitable for the the latter latter (see CRESS). It as a salad. 11 is is ordinarily ordinarily used used as a condiment condiment for for salad. BROUILLY Famous BROUILLY - Famous red red Beaujolais Beaujolais wine. wine.

Vegetable brunoise brunoise for for soups. soups. DRUNOlSE BRUNoTSE DE or LGUMES rEcurr,ms Vegetable Cut the the following following into into dice dice about about 3 3 mm. mm. - Cut ($ inch) inch) across: across: 3 (150 g., 3 small small carrots carrots (150 g., 5 5 oz.), oz.), 1 small turnip turnip (! I small (100 g g., (75 g., 4 oz.), oz.),2 leeks (75 (25 g., oz.),1 g., very small small onion onion (25 (IOO .. 4 2 leeks 3 oz.), 1 very 8.,3 I oz.) oz.) and and 2 2 stalks (50 g., stalks wbite white celery celery (50 g., 2 2 oz.). oz.). Season Season these these 1 vegetables wi with pinch of salt and and a a pinch fine sugar of fine sugar and and simmer simmer vegetables th salt them in in a a covered pan on covered pan (2 oz., low heat on a a low g. (2 heat with with 50 50 g. oz.,* cup) them ! cup) butter. When When they they are are nicely nicely softened (| pint, add 2 2 dl. pint, softened add dl. (1 butter. scant cup) cup) stock stock and and leave leave to to cook cook for for 15 15 minutes. minutes. At At the the seant last moment, add add a a tablespoon tablespoon cooked garden peas cooked garden peas and and a a la st moment, tablespoon diced diced French French string string beans. beans. tablespoon Add 2 2 or or 3 3 tablespoons tablespoons of of trus this mixture to (scant to every every litre litre (seant Add quart, generous generous quart) quart) soup. soup. quart,
POUR POTAGES -

porJR porAGEs

prNcBAU Kitchen tool consisting of hair or bristle BRUSH. PINCEAU BRUSH. -- Kitchen tool consisting of or attached toa to ahandleused forbrushingwith meltedbutter or.oil 3ttached handleused for brushingwith melted butter or oil various articles articles intended intended for grilling. for grilling. various The brush is also brush is also used pastry-making, for used in in pastry-making, for buttering buttering The baking tins tins and and other other utensils, utensils, and and for brushing the the tops tops of of baking pastries wi with beaten egg. pastries th bea ten egg.

lt

BROUTES BROUTE..') or or BROUTONS BROUTONS @6arn (Barn cookery) cookery) - Old Old cabbage cabbage shoots, shoots, served served mainly mainly during during Lent. Lent. Trim and wash the cabbage and Trim and wash the cabbage and cook cook in in salted salted water. water. Drain Drain and and dry. dry. Season Season with with oil oil and and vinegar. vinegar. In ln some sorne villages villages in in the the Basses-Pyr6ndei Basses-Pyrnes a a mixture mixture of of leeks leeks and and white white cabbage, cabbage, cooked cooked together, together, drained, drained, pressed pressed and and pieces, is also called broutes. cut into cut into pieces, is also called broutes. Meal Meal prepared prepared from from white white or or (corn) roasted roasted maize maize (corn) flour. fiOUL 'If 'If white, white, that that is is to to say say unroasted, unroasted, flour fiour is is used, used, make make the the broye hraye u as an an ordinary ordinary bouilli. bouilli. Bring Bring some some vegetable vegelable stock stock or or simply simply salted saited water water to to the the boil boil and and little little by by little littie add add the the flour flour until uni il a a paste paste of of a a fairly fairly firm firm consistency consistency is is obtained. obtained. 'When 'When the the bouilli bouilli is is cooked, cooked, and and it it should should be be stirred stirred all ail the time during cooking it is served with a ladle, which the lime during cooking, it is served with a lad le, which should be dipped in fat prevent to should be dipped in fat to prevent the the bouilli bouilli sticking sticking to to it. il. 'Ifroasted 'Jf roastcd flour fiour is is used used (troustado (IrouS/ado or or tourrado, lourrado, as as they they say say in B6arn), you make a in Barn), you make a well weil out out of ofit, it, moisten moisten with with the the liquid liquid indicated, blend well and proceed to cook. indicated, blend weU and proceed to cook. 'Cold broye can be cut into 'Co Id broye can be cut into slices sliccs and and fried fried in in sizzling sizzling fat fal golden.' (From until until golden.' (From Ia la Cuisine Cuisine m en Biarn, Barn, by by Simin Simin Palay.) Palay.) BRUGNON BRUGNON - A A French French name name for for nectarine nectarine or or smoothsmoolhpeach. skinned skinned peach. For For methods methods of ofpreparation, preparation, see see PEACH. PEACH.
(B6arn BROYE BROYE (Barn cookery) cookery)

BRUNOISE BRUNOISE-- This This word word has has the the following following meanings: meanings: l. 1. A A method method of of shredding shredding vegetables vegetables very very finely. finely. (Thus, (Thus, people speak of shredding carrots, leeks, celery, into a people speak of sbredding carroIs, leeks, celery, inlo a brunoise.) All these ingredients are then cooked in butter or brunoise.) Ali these ingredients arc then cooked in butter or
some other fat. sorne other fal.
156 156

BRUSSEI-S SPROUTS, SPROUTS. CHOUX cHoux DE DE BRUXELLES BRUXELLES BRUSSElS - The buds which develop develop in in Ihe the Ieafaxils leaf axils are are ealen eaten between October which and the the end end of of March. March. and Boiled Brussels Brussels sprouts. sprouts. CHOUX cHolrx DE BRuxELLEs A Boiled DE BRUXELLES L'ANcLArsE - Trinl Trim the sprouts, which L'ANGLAISE the sprouts, which means means removing removing outer leaves which outer leaves which are either too hard hard or too withered, and cutting the of each sproul. sprout. Wash them well. cutting the base base of weil. Cook sprouts in salted water and drain. drain. Cook the the sprouts in boiling boiling salted water and Serve fresh butter Serve fresh butter separately. separately. Brussels Brussels sprouts sprouts with with cream. cream. cHoux CHOUX DE DE BRUxELLTs BRUXELLES A LA cntMe cook the sprouts in salted boiling water, drain Half cook CRME - Half well, weIl, and and simmer simmer in in butter. butter. Cover Cover with boiling hoiling fresh cream cream to which which butter butter has has been been added. added. The The sprouts sprouts can can also also be be moistened moistencd with with a a Creon Cren sauce sauce (ser., (see SAUCE) SAUCE) instead instead of cream. cream. Brussels Brussels sprouts sprouts il I'indienne. l'indienne. cno(rx CHOUX DE DE BRUxELrrs BRUXELLES A L'INDIENNE L'INDIENNE - Simmer Simmer the the sprouts in in butter butter and and moisten moisten with with a a curry curry sauce. sauce. Surround Surround with with a border border of rice riee cooked cooked the the Indian lndian way way (see (see RICE). RICE). Brusseb Brussels sprouts sprout~ in gfavy. gravy. cHolrx CHOUX DE DE BRUXELLES BRUXELLES AU AU JUs JUS Simmer Sim mer the the sprouts sprouts in in butter butter until unril cooked, cooked, then then add add a a few few tablespoons tablespoons rich rich veal veal stock. stock. Cook Cook a a little little longer longer so so that that the the sprouts sprouts can can get get well weil soaked soaked in in the the gravy. gravy. Brussels Brussels sprouts sprouts iil la la milanaise. milanaise, cHoux CHOUX DE DE BRUxELLTs BRUXELLES A LA MILANATSE-Boil MILANAISE - Boil the the sprouts sprouts and and drain drain them them well. weIl. Heap Heap them them on on a a buttered buttered dish dish which which has has been been sprinkled sprinkled with with grated grated cheese. cheese. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with more more grated grated cheese, cheese, pour pour melted melted butter butter over over the the sprouts, sprouts, and and brown brown in in the the oven. oyen. Serve Serve with with Noisette Noisel/e butter bul/er (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). bUl/ers). Brussels Brussels sprouts sprollts Mornay. Mornay. cHoux CHOUX DE DE BRUXELLES BRUXELLES MoRNAy MORNAY This This is is prepared prepared in in the the same sa me way way as as Cauliflower Cauliflower Mornay Mornay (see (see CAULIFLOWER) CAULIFLOWER) with wilh the the sprouts sprouts heaped heaped on on a a gratin gratin dish. dish. Brussels Brussels sprouts sprouts il la la polonaise. polonaise, cnoux CHOUX on DE nnuxnrrEs BR UXELLES A poLoNAIsn - Prepare LA LA POLONAISE Prepare like like Cauliflower Cauliflower a a la lapolonaise polonaise (see (see CAULIFLOWER). CA ULIFLOWER). Brussels Brussels sproub sprouts pur6e. pure. punnE PURE DE DE cHoux CHOUX DE DE BRTTxELLES BRUXELLES Prepare Prepare with with blanched blanched Brussels Brussels sprouts sprouts simmered simmered in in butter, butter, in inthe thesameway same wayas asCauliflower Cauliflowerpurie(see pure (seeCAULIFLOWER). CAULIFLOWER). Brussels Brussels sproub sprouts salrd" salad.. seuoE SALADE DE DE cHor.x CHOUX DE DE BR{txELLEs BRUXELLES -

BUFFET BUFFET
NoIR BUCKWHEAT. BL nr6 NOIR BUCKWHEAT. - Variety of Saracen corn. DE SARRASIN, garnish). GRUAU cnueu DE sorry garnish). Buckwheat (Russian @ussian soup (l+ 7 or or 8 8 dl. dl. (1 to 7 I kg. ke. (2* sl-f NOIR Non. Add 1 buckwheat to * BL Q* lb.) buckwheat - Add a smooth work to to a water and and work pints, l| salted wann water t pints) pints) salted pints, 1 oven for 2 hours. in hot oyen a deep pan; bake in paste. Press into a the surface, surface, and has fonned formed on on the which has Remove the crust which touching mixture into a pan without touching tumout the buckwheat buckwheat mixture turnout bottom and on the sides of the crust which has formed at the bottom the dish. (4 oz., g. (4 cup) butter, butter, and with 100 100 g. oz., t dough with Work the the dough * cup) (f inch) thick. Leave to cm. (t a slab until it is 2 cm. spread out on a cool under a weight. pastry-crttter and and brown brown these a pastry-clltter with a into biscuits eut Cut into biscuits with is made made of the the crusts use is with broth. broth. No use with butter. butter. Serve with left in the dish. See KASHA. Buckwheat kasha - See

Festive Festive buffet, 1785 1785

Boil the Boil the sprouts, drain weil, well, and and arrange arrange in in a a salad salad bowl. Season Season with pepper. Sprinkle with oil, vinegar, salt oil, vinegar, and pepper. salt and Sprinkle with chopped chervil or with salad herbs. Brussels sprouts sprouts sauted saut6ed in butter. CHOUX cHoux DE in butter. DE BRUXELLES BRUxELLEs SAUTS lightly slurfs AU BEURRE BEURRE Saut6lightly - Boil and drain the sprouts. Saut in butter they are in butter until until they are brown. brown. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with chopped parsley. parsley.

which is is family which BUTFALO. BUFFLE -- Member Member of of the the ox ox family BUFFALO. World. Buffaloes found in hot, swampy swampy countries of the Old WorId. are domesticated in in Italy Italy and and Asia. Asia. The American American buffalo, are is much larger than the the Asiatic more properly called called bison, is flesh of The ftesh buffalo. This This animal animal is is fast fast becoming extinct. extinct. The of buffalo. prepared in any any manner Italian buffaloes can be prepared and Italian Asiatic and suitable beef (q.v.). suitable for beef(q.v.).
large The word means a a large word buffet buffet means BLTFFET (Restaurant) BUFFET @estaurant) - The of a a restaurant, on on near the the entrance entrance of tiered tiered table table often often set set near and pastries fish, co cold which dishes of meats, poultry, fish, Id sweets sweets and a large large manner. The The buffet buffet of of a are are arranged in in a a decorative decorative manner. choice edibles. edibles. restaurant is, is, in in fact, fact, a a show show of of choice in or near a a ballor near foods set set in ballLarge tables play of a dis display of foods tables with a a The food food is is dispensed by a room room are are also also called called buffets. dispensed by buffets. The guests come come to the table table to to be be served served with buer butler and and the the guests to the pastries, and drinks; or or to and various drinks; sandwiches, sandwiches, cold cold meats, pastries, in cups. Buffets of of this type are are also also have consomm consomm6 served cups. Buffets this type served in arranged arranged for wedding lunches. lunches.

(A LA) BRUXELLOISE ( LA) pieces of Garnish for for pieces of meat, - Garnish small or large, large, composed composed of Brussels sprouts sprouts and and pommes
chteau. chArcau. BUCCAN. BOUCAN BoucAN - Place where Indians cured their meat. The pplies to The word grid on word also also a applies to the actual grid the actual which the on which smoking was done.

Buffet (Arts dcoratifs) Bufet at at Marly, Marly, 1859 1859 (Arts ddcoratif$

157 r57

BUFFET BUFFET

The Thebuffet buffet Anonymous painting of the l8th century exhibited at the Pavillon de Marsan (1936) (M. Anonyroous painting of the 18th cent ury exhibited at the Pavillon de Marsan (1936) (M.Iion LonHelft) Helft)

158 158

BULLY.BEEF BLLY-BEEF

of Nantua General view of

years ago ago the A few few years cARE BUFFET (Station). BUFFET DE DE GARE BUFFEI (Station). -A a series series of Railways) initiated a S.N.C.F. (National French French Railways) S.N.C.F. and gastonomiques'. Those Lille, pernay Epernay and Those of of Lille, 'buffets 'buffets gastronomiques'. reputation. A vignon have an especially especially high reputation. Avignon
a barrel and and BUFFETER wine from a drawing-offwine - Action of drawing-off to mean d buffet' buffet' used used to 'Servir replacing water. 'Servir replacing it it with with water. watered guests with which had had been liberally watered serving guests with wine which down.

part of is today today the which is BUGEY of Savoy Savoy which Includes the the part - Includes was born in Belley, born in dpartement Brillat-Savarin was Ain. Brillat-Savarin departemeil of of Ain. of Bugey. dlpartement of which old dpartement the old town of the which was the the chief town in France. France. among the best in The The cuisine caisine of of this area is said to be among and ail all for its its crayfish, crayfish, and Nantua, is celebrated celebrated for Nantua, in in particular, is there. The The found there. the are to to be be found famous cheeses of Burgundy are the famous cheeses of plump capons, chickens, ducks ducks markets capons, chickens, choice plump markets are are full full of of choice pike abound abound in in and pike and lamb. Trout Trout and and the best salt-meadow lamb. the best perch and and lavaret, perch the lake supplies supplies lavaret, and the the rivers, and the Bourget lake and the the hillsides and char. ,are noted, noted, and and the the hillsides hams,are The country char. The country hams also game. This fertile region region also plains This fertile provide succulent plains provide succulent game. great variety variety of of other other prod uces truffles, produces a great morels, and and a truffies, morels, mushrooms. Belley Culinary usage ; Belley sausage; klley sa ham; Belley Salt ham; Cnlinary specialities specialities - Salt 'cardinalised crayfish fondue; '; crayfishcroqcrayfish croq' crayfish'; Bugey rissoles; rissoles; 'cardinalised fondue; Bugey du d lafaon lafagon du uettes; char la Nantua; Nantua; char tails d la uettes; timbale timbale of of crayfish crayfish tails gdteaux; crayfish tails au au lac quenelles and crayfish tails lavaret gteaux; and lavaret lac du du Bourget; Bourget; quenelles truffie s ; gratin la crme ;fillet ofbeefstuddedwith black truffles; gr at in ;pike ; pike d la cr dme fille t of be ef s tudde d wit h black Y ah omey braised ions ;; round v e al with w it h Valromey of veal w it h on onions r ound of br aise d leg le g of mut t on with of mutton stufed black black truffles; tufies; stuffed and black sweetbreads and black morels; morels: ca/ves' calves' sweetbreads
;

giblets with with chestnuts; chestnuts; truffied giblets turkey; truffled ears; truffled truffied turkey; calves' ears; calves' Cilestine; chicken Cwine; chickm fricasse; Bresse truffled truffied chicken; chicken; chicken Bresse fricassCe; chicken jugged hare de ChtChdtgdteau de Diane de hare de de Diane de foies blondes; jugged gteau foies blondes; Bugey salC of of Bugey The sal of woodcock. The eaumorand; Bernardini salmis of eaumorand; just as watera wateras anguries, anguries, a region, just is the national dish the region, the national dish of of the is Bugey The well-known well-known Bugey with Belley. The melon salad, is assoiated assodiated with melon following at Christmas; Christmas; the following eaten at ftors-d'euvre eaten rissole is a hot hors-d'uvre proportions will make a rissoles. dozen rissoles. a dozen proportions pieces. Clean Clean g. (9 into small small pieces. roast turkey oz.) roast turkey into Cut 250 250 g. Cut e oz.) hours and cook cook for for 3 3 hours (5 oz.) cut up, up, and g. (5 thoroughly, cut 150 g. tripe thoroughly, oz.) tripe 150 (q.v.) beef stock, stock, wine and and beef white wine of white in a a court-bouillon court-bouillon (q. in v.) of a small bouquet of of pepper, onions and a small bouquet onions and with salt, salt, pepper, seasoned with seasoned in butter without onion in butter without a chopped chopped onion chervil. Cook Cook a and chervil. thyme and and with salt meats, season season with salt and add the the meats, it to allowing it to brown, brown, add allowing juices, quantity of roast turkey turkey juices, pepper, moisten of roast with a a small small quantity moisten with pepper, liquor has has until the the liquor minutes. Simmer Simmer until for 5 6 minutes. and saut 5 or or 6 saut6 for and (2 oz., g. (2 cup) large large add 50 oz., t* cup) and add 50 g. half, and boiled down down by by half, boiled cool. Leave to to cool. currants. Leave currants. (* inch) inch) pastry, roll about 5 mm. (t puff pastry, roll out 5 mm. out about Make sorne some puff Make onto filling onto rectangles. Spoon Spoon sorne some filling into small small rectangles. cut into thick, cut thick, in the and bake bake in the with beaten egg, and fold over, beaten egg, brush with these, fold over, brush these, oyen. oven.

for anchusa, a name for anchusa, a BUGLossE -- Common Common name BUGLOSS. BUGLOSSE BUGLOSS. as a a salad, flowers are are eaten eaten as salad, plant also known as as alkanet. alkanet.Its also known plant l ts f10wers great a great have been been a said to have and sa a tonic, tonic, and considered to to be be a considered id to leaves are are eaten eaten regions the the leaves In sorne Louis XIII. XIII. In some regions favourite of of Louis favourite prepared the as spinach. way as spinach. same way the same prepared
dough rolled-out dough made from from roJied-out fritter, made kind of of fritter, A kind BUGNES -- A BUGNES 'capital' of the of the is the Lyons is the 'capital' in oil. oil. Lyons fried in and fried which is is cut cut up up and which bugnes. bugnes.

Bugey Bugey crayfish crayfish

plant Biennial plant BULBEUX -- Biennial cERFEUIL BULBEUX CHERVIL. BULBOUS VIL. CERFEUIL BULBOUS CHER fecula rich in in fecula are rich which are roots, which for its its tuberous tuberous roots, cultivated cultivated for prepared roots are are prepared flavour. The The roots aromatic flavour. and and have have aa strong strong aromatic artichokes. like Chinese Chinese artichokes. like
young bulls that is tougher than that tougher than bulls is Flesh of of young TAUREAU -- Flesh BULL. BLTLL. TAUREAU isvery very quality. The flesh of animalsis good quality. The f1esh ofold old animais but of of good of of beef, beef, but in taste. musky in taste. and often often musky tough, tough,and meat for tinned tinned meat term for Slang tenu BULL Y-BEEF. ENDAUBAGE ENDAUBAcE - - Slang BLJLLY-BEEF. forces. armed forces. the armed supplied to the supplied to
159 159

BUNDENFLEISCH BUNDENFLEISCH
BUNDENFLEISCH -- German German word word meaning meaning Grisons Grisons salt salt BUNDENFLEISCH beef. beef. piece of Pickle a lean piece a lean meat for for 6 of meat 6days, days, take out of take out of the the brine brine Pickle and hang hang for for 5 5 or or 6 6 months. months. This pickling is This pickling is done done in in the the and Swiss canton canton of of Grisons Grisons in in November, November, and and the the salted meat salted meat Swiss public the sold to to the the public following April. the following April. When When taken taken out out of of the the sold put in it is is put brine it in a a smoke-curing smoke-curing house house for for one one day, day, except except brine in the the Engadine, Engadine, where pickling is where pickling is done done commercially commercially on on a a in large scale, and the scale, and the beef beef is is not not smoke-cured. smoke-cured. large BUNG. BONDE BoNDE -- Wooden Wooden stopper stopper for for barrel barrel bung-holes. bung-holes. BUNG.

BUNTING. BRUANT BRUANT -- Genus Genus of aquatic, web-footed of aquatic, web-footed birds, birds, BUNTING. found in in the the marches marches of Bresse and of Bresse and Dauphin. Dauphin6. It prepared It is is prepared found in the (see DUCK, the same same way way as as wild wild duck duck (see DIJCK,'Wild duck). in Wild duck).
BLJRBOT. LOTTE LorrE DE nB RIVIRE nrvrinr -- Species Species of of freshwater freshwater fish fish BURBOT. with long long dorsal dorsal fins, fins, a a long long tail tail fin, fin, and and drooping drooping barbels barbels with on the the chin. chin. on Bubot Iiver. liver. FOIE ron DE DE LOTTE LorrE DE oE RIVIRE Rrwtns -- Prepared Prepared in in the the Burbot same way way as as the the soft roes of of various various fish, soft roes fish, tbough though it it requires requires same longer poaching poaching than than soft roes. soft roes. longer The liver liver is is highly prized by highly prized poached connoisseurs. It by connoisseurs. It is is poached The in white white wine wine and and used garnishes. It used for for various various Lenten Lenten gamishes. It is is in also made (q.v.). pdti (q.v.). made into into pt also

(Butter-bur, Beggar's BLTRDOCK (Butter-bor, Beggar's buttons). buttons). BARDANE BARDANE -BURDOCK perennial plant Hardy perennial plant which grows grows along along paths on on the the roadroadHardy in the hedgerows. hedgerows. It side and and in It is is also also called called herbe herbe aux aux teigneux teigneux side (scurvy grass) grass) because in the past its because in the past its leaves leaves were were used used as as (scurvy poultices for for certain kinds kinds of sores. sores. The The fresh fresh spring spring root is is poultices well known known as as a a depurative and particularly useful is particularly and is useful in in the the weil treatment of of furunculosis. treatment The tea tea made made from from its its leaves leaves is is refreshing and and stimula stimulates tes The the digestion. digestion. It It soothes inflammations inflammations of the the stomach stomach and and the is an an excellent remedy remedy for for stomach stomach ulcers. is young shoots and In Scotland young peeled roots and peeled roots of of burdock In are used in in cooking; cooking; they are prepared as are prepared as salsify. are

BURGUNDY. BOURGOGNE souncocNE - - Burgundy Burgundy is is the the region region of of BURGUNDY. France where where the food is isto the best bestfood to be it enjoys had, and and it behad, enjoysthe the France gastronomes for esteemof of gastronomes quality and for the the quality and variety variety of its ofits esteem wines. wines. We are are beholden beholden to its excellent to its excellent cuisine for aamethod cuisine for method of of We preparation called called d la la bourguignonne, bourguignonne, used used mainly mainly for for preparation large cuts cuts of of braised braised meat, meat, also also for poultry;aa for eggs, eggs, fish fishand andpoultry; large red wine garnish of wine sauce sauce with with aa gamish mushrooms and of mushrooms and small red small onions. on ions. Ain is is the poultry is the district district where where the the best best poultry is raised; raised, and and Ain where the the town town of of Belley, Belley, associated associated with with Brillat-Savarin, Brillat-Savarin, is is where situated. Nantua Nantua evokes evokes visions visions of /acrme; crdme; Saneof crayfish crayfish rila Sa6nesituated. et-Loire has has the given its the town town of of Mcon, Mdcon, which which bas hasgiven its name name to to et-Loire one of of our our best best wines; wines; the Dijon, may the Cte-d'Or, C6te-d'Or, with with Dijon, may be besaid one said to be be one one of produces gastronomy; the of the the capi capitals of gastronomy; Yonne produces the Yonne tais of to Chablis wines, gourmets. wines, esteemed esteemed by by gourmets. Chablis The Burgundy Burgundy larder larder is is abundantly abundantly rich. pasture rich. ln In the The the pasture lands of of Charolais give succulent Charolais the the cattie cattle give lands succulent beef. The beef. The poultry of Bresse is is considered considered among of Bresse among the the best in France. France. poultry best in ground and In Morvan, Morvan, ground game abounds. and winged winged game abounds. The In The woodwoodcock of of the the Dombes Dombes marshes marshes is is unrivalled. unrivalled. cock ponds, rivers In the rivers and the ponds, pike, char, and streams, In streams, pike, char, trout, trout, trout and and crayfish crayfish are are found. salmon trout found. The The escargots salmon escargots of of Burgundy are are most most succulent. Burgundy succulent. Among Among other other excellent excellent products are are Courtivron Courtivron and and Oyonnax Oyonnax morels, products morels, St St George's George's agaric, cpes cipes and and other mushrooms, found other mushrooms, found in agaric, in abundance abundance in in the woods woods and and fields, fields, and and the the cboice the choice vegetables vegetables cultivated cultivated in Auxonne and around Auxonne and around Dijon. Dijon. in The fruit fruit of Burgundy orchards of the The the Burgundy is famous: orchards is famous: SaintSaintBris cherries; cherries; and and blackcurrants Bris blackcurrants used not only prepare used not only to to prepare famous Cassis Cassis liqueur liqueur made made in the famous in Dijon, Dijon, but also for but also for a a vast vast of sweetmeats. sweetmeats. Dijon Dijon mustard mustard is number of is considered considered the the best; best; condiments seasoned pickled gherkins, condiments seasoned with with vinegar, vinegar, such gherkins, as pickled such as are also also made in in Dijon. Dijon. are The region region which, The which, with with Bordeaux Bordeaux and proand Champagne, Champagne, produces magnificent magnificent wines, produces excellent duces wines, produces excellent cheeses cheeses to to

Spring in in Burgundy Burgundy Spring

160 160

BURGUNDY BURGUNDY
(which (which are are made made in in the the Yonne), Yonne), Saint-Florentin, Saint-Florentin, Passin Passin best which, which, according according to to some sorne experts, experts, is is as as good good as as the the. best Sa6ne-etthe and goat cheeses Morvan varioui Gruydre, Gruyre, various Morvan goat cheeses and the Sane-etButteaux, Butteaux, Germigny, Germigny, Pougny, Pougny, the the famous famous Epoisses poisses cheeses cheeses

Display Display of of grapes grapes and and apples apples from from Dijon Dijon

accompany accompany them. them. Among Among those those highly higbly esteemed esteemed by by gastronomes gastronomes are are Gex Gex blue-veined blue-veined cheese cheese which which has has a a certain certain Soumaintrain, CiteaLx, similarity to to Roquefort; Roquefort; Soumaintrain, Cteaux, Beugnon, Beugnon,

Loire cream cheeses. Loirecream cheeses. great For For centuries centuries Burgundy Burgundy has has been been the the land land of of great given gastronomical gastronomical feasts. feasts. The The most most characteristic characteristic were were given at at the the time time of of grape-harvesting. grape-harvesting. Phil6as Philas Gilbert Gilbert wrote wrote a a description of these these feasts: feasts: 'From 'From the the moment moment the the village village description of the before (the drum the roll of call crier crier had had sounded sounded the the cali (the roll of the drum before the proclamation), pre de de la la vigne vigne and and the the proclamation), when when only only the the pire the evening, until word, the had layering of wine masters masters of wine layering had the word, until the evening, press was when of grapes grapes crushed crushed by by the the wine wine press was when the the last last cask cask of joy poured poured into into the the vats, vats, all ail was was joy and and song. song. 'And 'And as as a a compensation compensation for for the the mid-day mid-day meal, meal, the the supper supper potig traditional with the feast, promised a veritable menu menu promised a veritable feast, with the traditional pote its its roiust robust fragrance fragrance teasing teasing the the men men and and women women wine wine choux harvesters it was was ready. ready . La La tisane tisane fu de choux harvesters long long before before it was Then there say. sucrie as Henri Henri II Il used used to to say. Then there was sucre avec avec de de lard, lard, as for the occasion sacrificed a and sheep, goose taribaude, d la goose la taribaude, and a sheep, sacrificed for the occasion The strange yet ind and transformed transformed into into strange yet exquisite exquisite ragofits. ragots. The

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.e1Jonzy Game pt~ 'An/S~t!eO lfG ~'~:tFnIJON lark and woodeock ptt's. Vinegar, Preserved Mustard,. Vlnegar. Preserved ~ Croquets -vJ.YW,rvt*gn S L orllles,,.Sauheu t' ~ l!.MUHard - trToibo'1,*o-Z1[\rrut, Grnlerbread Jam. Gmgerbread. "'. ,ouilly' /. _ ar eyesugar ~ eJambon<t' 0 ? "(;' frUIt, Jam, "fl-' WI N ES BClorblgpy ci la crme~ ? '! t:'l Confewonery. CasSIS, Prunelle rI' ~ . u~rout &~-(') ~-;;. .,~uxonne ~O~ Game pts NIE V R -.t' r le ~0/1'fSJ ~ t't ~St. JeandeLosne , Asparagus Voov Croquets IV E RN AIS -":;:' AndOUilles c:. ("1 c:.~rr ~ fi ~ ;', , rout Crayfish E'IlIMarzl ans QG -.;:. ~-W Meurette. Poe ouse :: Vi: RS 1"" P '''j -; ~ T rout. Snads J "

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Gastronomic map mapof of Burgundy Burgundy Gastronomie

161 161

BURGUNDY
flesh of grandam of of tbis this sheep, sheep, the the grandam flock, at of the the flock, at times times tasted tasted flesh (to say grease (to of wool wool grease nothing of say nothing of its its toughness!) toughness !) but, but, to to of jugs poured go down, make it pot-bellied jugs it go down, the the pot-bellied poured forth forth cool cool make 'plenty of wine; it it was was 'plenty grub' and of grub' and carousing carousing to to one's one's heart's heart's wine; content .. . . ".. content 'Ah! Those Those admirable admirable Burgundian Burgundian meals, meals, when great when a a great 'Ah! profusion of delectable dishes of delectable dishes is is served, served, such as escargotssuch as escargots profusion d la la bourguignonne, bourguignonne, naturally! naturally! -- meurelle (q.v.) of meurette (q,v.) various of various il (q.v.) with frsh; andoui/lelles andouillettes (q.v.) with beans; (q.v.) beans; a a succulent succulent dflube daube (q.v.) fish; of beef; beef; the the traditional traditional ferchuse d la la mnagre, minagire, fiammiche ferchuse il of flammiche poireaux,fouie au aux poireaux,foue au lard, lard, and and the the Burgundy Burgundy rigodon rigodon!' aux l' Cnfinary specialities specialities -- To To Philas Phildas Gilbert, Gilbert, the the escargot, escargot, Colinary prepared in in accordance accordance with with Burgundian Burgundian rites, rites, eaten eaten prepared scalding hot hot as as it it is is taken taken out garlic-scented butter out of its garlic-scented of its butter scalding gastronomy of bath, symbolises symbolises the the gastronomy of Burgundy, Burgundy. But But there there is is bath, an infinite infinite variety variety of of other other dishes, dishes, recipes recipes for for which which will will be be an found in in alphabetical alphabetical order. order. found Potie bourguignonne, bourguignonne, which which is is similar similar to various French to various French Pote poties, for for each each region region of France has pofte; pochouse pochouse of France has its its pote; potes, (q.v.) and and various various freshwater freshwater fish (q.v.); beef fish matelotes matelotes (q.v.); beef il d la ta (q.v.) bourguignonne, which which must must be made with be made with red red wine; wine; round round of of bourguignonne, veal il d la la crme; crime; andouille andouille wilh with white (a white beans; beans; ferchuse ferchuse (a vea/ corruption of of the the word word fressure, pluck); daube i.e. pluck); daube bourbourfressure, i.e. corruption guignonne;flammiche with with /eeks;foue, leeks;foude,whichis a cream cream flan flan guignonne;fiammiche which is a filled with with slices slices of of bacon bacon and and sprinkled sprinkled with with walnut walnut oil; oil; filled poulet young pigeons au sang; sang; young gobinette; canard h la la gobineue; canard au au pou/el au pigeons il jugged hare laurier; jugged hare d /a la bourguignonne; bourguignonne; saddle saddle of of hare hare d la la laurier; Piron; omelelle omelette au au sang. sang. Piron; There are are pike d la la crme; udme; Amay-le-Duc Arnay-le-Duc andouille; andouille; Sens Sens There pike andauillette; Dijon Dijon ham honn wilh with parsley; the sausages sausages of of Belley Belley andouillelle; parsley; the (Brillat-Savarin's native crayfish tails tails d la Nantua; la Nan/ua; (Brillat-Savarin's native place); place); crayfish pike quenelles wilh with crayfish; crayfisft; Pemollet Pernollet chicken chicken il d la la crme; crime; pike quenelles coq au &t chambertin; chambertin; sucking-pig sucking-pig il it la la bourguignonne; bourguignonne; ham coq Mm rigodon, and and a a whole of charcuterie: charcuterie: large and smal! small rigodon, whole range range of large and sausages; black black pudding and pork which are are made in sausages; pudding and pork pies, pies, which made in the Sa6ne-et-Loire and and in Cte-d'Or, Ain, Ain, Sane-et-Loire in Yonne. Yonne. the COte-d'Or, Among and pastries sweets and Burgundy Among the the cakes, cakes, sweets pastries of of the the Burgundy (which can region rigodon (q.v.) can also region are are the the rigodon (q.v.) (which also be be made made as as a dessert or or sweet sweet course); dessert course); Lower Lower Burgundy Burgundy girdle girdle cakes; cakes; Upper cakes known Upper Burgundy Burgundy girdle girdle cakes known as as pognoi; pognon; pancakes, pancakes, called called matefaims malefaims ifr iil Upper Upper Burgundy; Burgundy; bugnes bllgnes or or couques; coliques; and Auxerre Sens and Sens Auxerre gougire; gougre; Louhans Louhans corgniottes; co rgn io Iles ; chamoure chamoure - a a kind kind of of marrow marrow flan flan which which is is mainly mainly made made in in Lower Lower Mflconnais; Mconnais; fruit fruit tartouillat; larlouillal; tarte larle aux aux boulettes; bou/eues; flamusse fiamusse gaudes. bressane; and gaudes. bressane; and Among Among local local pastry pastry and and confectionery confectionery specialities specialities are are Dijon and pain ipice; Avallon Dijon nonnettes nonnel/es and pain d d'pice; Avallon and and Chablis Chablis bis cuits ; Sens s mer ingue s; Arnay-le-Duc ; Chabli biscuits; Sens macaroons macaroons; Chablis meringues; Amay-le-Duc mar z ip ans ; noug a t ine s ; b lac k cur r ant fondant s ; sug ar - c o a t e d marzipans; nougatines; blackcurrant fondants; sugar-coaled jams, among cherries cherries (cherries (cherries in in petticoats); petticoats); excellent excellentjams, among which which the known are are Chanceavx Chanceaux raisini, raisin, confiture confiture d'ipined'epinethe best best known vinCtte: and Flavigny Flavigny aniseed aniseed sweets. sweets. vinelle; and To To conclude conclude the the list list of of local local produce produce are are the the esteemed esteemed cassis and prunelle, cassis liqueurs liqueurs made made at at Dijon; Dijon; and prunelle, made made at at Flavigny. Flavigny. Wines Wines - The The quality quality and and variety varicty of of Burgundy Burgundy wines wines assure assure them them a a leading leading place place not not only only in in France France but but in in the the world. world. Viticultural Viticultural Burgundy Burgundy goes goes beyond beyond the the frontiers frontiers of of historic historie Burgundy. Burgundy. It It extends extends across across fo:ur four dipartements: dpartements: Yonne, Cte-d'Or, Sa6ne-et-Loire Sane-et-Loire and and Rhdne, Rhne, embracing embracing Yonne, C6te-d'Or, the the great great regions regions of of Chablis, Chablis, Cdte Cte de de Nuits, Nuits, C6te Cte de de Beaune, Beaune, Cdte chalonnaise, Cte chalonnaise, MAconnais, Mconnais, Beaujolais. Beaujolais. Each Each of of these these regions regions comprises comprises several several appellations, appel/ations, some some communes. communes, some sorne vineyards, vineyards, besides besides regional regional or'generic' or 'generic' appellations appellations (see (see accompanying accompanying table). table). Chablis. The little town of Chablis Chablis in in Yonne Yonne has has given given its its Chablis. The little town of name and name to to this this excellent excellent dry dry wine wine with with its its greeny-gold greeny-gold hue hue and delicate delicate bouquet. bouquet. It lt is is a a wine wine that tha! matures matures beautifully beautifully in in

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good good vintage vintage years. years. Connoisseurs enjoy drinking it it with
oysters, shellfish. oysters, seafood, seafood, fish fish and shellfish. COte Nuits. This is the name Cte de de Nuils. name given to the northern northem part of of the the C6te-d'Or, Cte-d'Or, which which begins south south of of Dijon Dijon with with the the commune commune of of Fixin Fixin and ends south of Nuits-Saint-Georges. Nuits-Saint-Georges, The vineyards climb halfway halfway up up a line of of hills hills situated west west

The The C6te Cte de de Nuits Nuits produces mostly mostly red red wines. wines, These strong, strong, full-bodied, full-bodied, glowing, glowing, fragrant fragrant wines wines enjoy enjoy an
excellent reputation reputation and and accompany roast roast or or grilled grilled meat, meat, game game (even (even when when it it is is high), high), piquant piquant dishes dishes and cheeses cheeses to to perfection. perfection. Cbte de Beaune. Beaune. This This comes cornes immediately immediately after after the the COte Cte de de Cte de Nuits Nuits and and gets gets its its name name from from the the village village of of Beaune. Beaune. Cdte Cte de de Beaune ex tends from from Ladoix-Serrigny Ladoix-Serrigny in in the the north north to to Beaune extends Santenay, Santenay, on on the the borders borders of of the the ddpartemmr dpartement of of Sa6ne-etSane-etLoire Loire in in the the south. south. Apart Apart from from some sorne great great red red wines, wines, Cdte Cte de de Beaune Beaune produces produces some sorne very very fine fine dry dry white white wines, wines, the the most most famous famous being being Montrachet, Montrachet, with with its its delicious delicious fragrance fragrance of of fresh fresh almonds. almonds. Puligny-Montrachet Puligny-Montrachet often often equals equals it; it; the the Chassagne-Montrachet Chassagne-Montrachet and and B0tarde-Montrachet Btarde-Montrachet have have better better lasting lasting qualities. qualities. The The powerful powerful Corton-Charlemagne, Corton-Charlemagne, the the fragrant, fragrant, full-bodied full-bodied Meursault Meursault are, are, like Iike all aIl the the wines wines of of this this region, region, wines wines to to serve serve with with fish fish and and shellfish; shellfish; they they also also make make fitting fitting companions corn panions to to the the richest richest of.sauces. of sauces. The The red red wines wines are are as as good good as as those those of of the the C6te Cte de de Nuits. Nuits. They They can can be be drunk drunk with with meat, meat, but but it il is is preferable preferable (apart (apan from from

of of the the autoroute autoroute Dijon-Mdcon. Dijon-Mcon.

t62 162

BURGUNDY BURG UND Y

(from contemporary The contemporary tapestries) tapestries) The manufacture Burgundy wines, wines, 1470 1470 (from manufacture of of Burgundy

Corton keep them for less less rich rich dishes dishes than than to keep them for Corton or or Pommard) to those that Cte wines usually accompany. C6te de de Nuits wines usually accompany. Cte line of the line of the of This is is the continuation of the continuation Cbte chalonnaise. This sun-drenched Dijon. The The of Dijon. south of hill slopes that begin begin south sun-drenched hill slopes that red famous are worthy worthy of of their their famous Rully, are red Mercurey, Mercurey, the white Rully, the white brothers of (There is white Mercurey Mercurey is also also a a white Cdte-d'Or. (There of the the Cte-d'Or. and (white) not forget Montagny (white) We must must not forget the the Montagny and a a red red Rully.) Rully.) We and . (both red red and and white). white). and the the Givry Givry (both Mconnais. nder the Mdcon Mdcon, Mcon the appellations appellations Mcon, Mdconnais. U Under suprieur (white only) find red, red, only) we we find and Mcon-Villages Mdcon-Villages (white sup6rieur and ros good vinified, make make good when weil well vinified, which, when and white white wines wines which, ros6 and carafe carafe wines. wines. Aiso is a a superb dry Mdconnais wines wines there there is superb dry among the Also among the Mconnais wh(te Pouilly-Fuiss6 which, which, white wine wine known world: Pouilly-Fuiss known ail all over over the the world: gastronomically gastronomically speaking, with Chablis is interchangeable interchangeable with Chablis speaking, is wines Two communal communal Beaune. Two C6te de de Beaune. wines or or those of the the Cte those of appellations, are in and Pouilly-Loch Pouilly-Loch6 are in appellations, Pouilly-Vinzelles Pouilly-Vinzelles and the the same class. same class. Beaujolais. the Burguody Burgundy wines, wines, classerl among among the Beaujolais. Although Although classer.! Beaujolais personality. Its name with a a strong Its name Beaujolais is is a a wine wine with strong personality. evokes y wines, pleasant to are pleasant wines, the the kind kind that that are to light, fruit fruity evokes Iight, drink 'gulping' wines, young and fresh --'gulping' wines, the the and fresh drink when when they are young they are growers growers call the Gamay Gamay kingdom, kingdom, It belongs belongs to to the call them. them. It

whereas great wines come from from the the wines of the Cte-d'Or C6te-d'Or come whereas the the great of the black black Pinot. Pinot. The in the the Beaujolais begins begins in district of of Beaujolais The wine-growing wine-growing district dpartement extends north and and extends in the the north dipartemenl of Sa6ne-et-Loire in of Sane-et-Loire southwards 'generic' appelappelLyons. The The 'generic' of Lyons. southwards to to the the environs environs of lations 'Beaujolais suprieur' 'Beaujolais', 'Beaujolais and sup6rieur' and are 'Beaujolais', lations are 'Beaujolais-Villages'; very 'Beaujolais-Villages'; they are the lightest varieties varieties and and very they are the lightest drinkable. drinkable. Nine rit a growths me each of of them them merit Nine growths a special special appellation, appellation, each (see accompanying with accompanying table). table). individual character character (see with its its own own individual It most Beaujolais, Beaujolais, which which noting that contrary to to most It is is worth worth noting that contrary must young, the and Moulin-Moulin-dFleurie and the Morgon, Morgon, Fleurie must be be drunk drunk young, Vent year -- be good year laid down. be laid down. Vent can can -- in in a a good

LIST CONTROTENS LIST OF OF APPELLATIONS APPELLATIONS CONTRLES OF y BURGUNDY OF BURGUND White (R) wines (W) and red (R) wines and red White (W) Appellations rig ionale s Appe llat ions rgionales Bourgogne. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. Bourgogne Bourgogne ...................... ros6 Bourgogne clairet clairet ou ou ros Bourgogne ............................ Bourgogne aligot aligot6 Bourgogne passe-tout-grain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ....... . . . . .. Bourgognepasse-tout-grain.. Bourgogne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. grand ordinaire. Bourgogne grand ordinaire 163 163

W, W, R R R R W W R R W, W, R R

BUSH BUSH
Rigion de deChablis Chablis Rgion grand cru. Chablis grand cru .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. Chablis premier cru Chablis premier cru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. Chablis Chablis Chablis...................... . ........... Perit Chablis chablis ... Petit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..
Chambolle-Musigny .......................... . Chambolle-Musigny Fixin. Fixin.............. . ......... . Gevrey-Chambertin ..................... . Gevrey-Chambertin Morey-Saint-Denis Morey-Saint-Denis ........................... . Nuits-Saint-Georges . . . . . . . . . . . . Nuits-Saint-Georges. . ....... . Vougeot .......................... . Vougeot Vosne-Roman6e ............................. . Vosne-Romane . C6te de de Nuits-Villages Nuits-Villages .................... ... Cte . Bourgogne-MarsannayJa-Cdte .. . Bourgogne-Marsannay-Ia-Cte Bourgogne-Vins fins fins des des Hautes Hautes Ctes Cdtes de Nuits. de Nuits ... Bourgogne-Vins .... Bonnes Mares Mares ............................... . Bonnes Chambertin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chambertin. . ....... . Chambertin-Clos de Bze. Bbze. . Cham bertin-Clos de Chapelle-Chambertin ......................... . Chapelle-Chambertin Charmes or or Mazoyres-Chambertin Mazoyeres-Chambertin ............ . Charmes Clos de de la la Roche Roche ..... Clos Clos Saint-Denis. Saint-Denis .. Clos ........... . ............ . Clos de de Tart Tart. . Clos ................................ . Clos de de Vougeot Vougeot ............................. . Clos Ech6zeaux .................................. . Echzeaux Grands-Echzeaax ........................... . Grands-Echzeaux Griottes-Chambertin ......................... . Griottes-Chambertin La Tche Tdche ................................... . La Latricibres -Chambertin .............. . Latricires-Chambertin Mazis-Chambertin ........................... . Mazis-Chambertin Musigny .................................... . Musigny Richebourg Richebourg ................................. . La ... Romane.. ..... . ........... . La Roman6e Roman6e-Conti. . Romane-Conti ............. . Roman6e-Saint-Vivant Romane-Saint-Vivant ........................ . Ruchottes-Chambertin Ruchottes-Chambertin. . ................. . Great wines wines of of Cte COte de de Nuits Nuits GreaI
C6te de deNuilS Nuits Cte

w W w W w W w W
R R R R R R

SampignyJbs-Maranges ......... .. . .. . ... . .. Sampigny-ls-Maranges . Saint-Romain ............................... ... Saint-Romain . Bourgogne-Hautes Ctes C6tesdeBeaune ....... Bourgogne-Hautes de Beaune Great wines wines of of Cte Cbte de de Beaune Beaune GreaI Corton Corton ..................................... . Corton-Charlemagne Corton-Charlemagne ...................... . Bdtard-Montrachet Btard-Montrachet ......... . Bienvenue-Bdtard-Montrachet Bienvenue-Btard-Montrachet ................. . Criots-Bdtard-Montrachet... Criots-Btard-Montrachet ............. . ....... Chevalier-Montrachet Chevalier-Montrachet . . . . ........ . . . . .. Montrachet Montrachet. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..
Beaujolais Beaujolais Beaujolais. ........... . Beaujolais.. Beaujolais sup6rieur Bea ujolais su prieur . Beaujolais-Villages Beaujolais-Villages ........................... . Brouilly. . . .. ... Brouilly. . . ...................... . Ch6nas Chnas ... . . ........ . Chiroubles Chiroubles. ... . ........................ . C6tes de Brouilly . . . . . . . .. . ............. . de Brouilly. Ctes Fleurie. . . . . . Fleurie. . .......... . Juli6nas Julinas ........................... .

R R W, R W,R R R W. R W,R W W W W W W W W W W W W
W,R W. R W, R W,R R R R R R R

w,R W,R w,R W,R w,R W,R R R R R R R R R

R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R

R R R R R R R R
R R R R

Morgon Morgon .......................... . Moulin-i-Vent.... . Moulin--Vent Saint-Amour . ... Saint-Amour

Mdconnais Mconnais

...

..

..

w,R W,R
R R
R R R R R R R R

M6con Mcon .. Mdcon suprieur. sup6rieur Mcon . . . . . . . . . . ......... . Micon-Villages. Mcon-Villages .............................. . Pouilly-Fuiss6 .............................. .. Pouilly-Fuiss . Pouilly-Vinzelles ............................ . Pouilly-Vinzelles . Pouilly-Loche ... Pouilly-Loch ................... .
(In Il). (rNr) BUSH a). BUrssoN BlJSH (ln BU1SS'ON (EN)

W. R W,R W, n W,R W W W W W W

arranging various - Method of arranging ingredients, shellfish: crayfish m buisson, Ingredients, particularly particularly shellfish' crayfish en

lobsters buisson, spiny lobsters en buissor. Smelts Smelts and en buisson, spiny lobslers en buisson. lobs/ers en other other small fish are also frid [ried and arranged 'in a a bush'.

Givry. Givry...........

COte chalonnaise Cte cha/onnaise

. ............ Mercurey Mercurey ................................... Montagny. Montagny ................................... Rully. Rully.......... . ...................

. . . .

w,R W,R w,R W,R w W w,R W,R w,R W,R w,R W,R w,R W,R w,R W,R w,R W,R w,R W,R
R R

Auxey-Duresses. Auxey-Duresses. . ................... . Beaune Beaune. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . .... . Blagny. Blagny... . ............... . Chassagne-Montrachet Chassagne-Montrachet ........................ Chorey-lbs-Beaune Chorey-ls-Beaune ................ . C6tes Ctes de de Beaune Beaune. . . . . . . ........... Cdtes . Ctes de de Beaune-Villages. Beaune-Villages ...................... Ladoix Ladoix ................................... . Meursault Meursault. . . . . . ........... Monthlie Monthlie............ . ................ Pernand-Vergelesses Pernand-Vergelesses ...................... . Pommard Pommard ................................. Puligny-Montrachet Puligny-Montrachet .............. . Saint-Aubin Saint-A ubin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . ............ Santenay Santenay. . . . . . . . . . . .. . ........ . Savigny-lbs-Beaune Savigny-ls-Beaune ........................... Volnay Volnay ..................................... CheillyJbs-Maranges Cheilly-ls-Maranges .... . Dezize-lbs-Maranges Dezize-ls-Maranges ..........................

Aloxe-Corton.. Aloxe-Corton. . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . ...

COte Cte de de Beaune Beaune

BUSTARD. BUSTARD. ourARDE 'OUTARDE - Genus Genus of of bird of of the family Otidiae, Olidiae, found and temperate regions of the Old World. found in in both both hot hot and temperateregionsoftheOld World. The great greal bustardis bus/ardis the the largest largest land bird bird in Europe, where where it il comes cornes in Itt is in December Decem ber and and stays stays until until March. March.1 is known known for for the the delicacy of of its its flesh. flesh. The The little /iule bustardis buslard is more more highly highly prized. It 1t comes cornes to to Beauce and and Berry Berry in in April, April, but but is is non-migrant non-migrant in Spain, Spain, Italy, Ital y, Greece and and Sardinia. The The special special feather feather structure structure on on the the head head of of the the great great bustard bustard male male is is absent from from the the head head of of the the little little bustard bus tard male. male. The The principal principal method method of of cooking cooking bustard bustard is is roasting. roasting. All Ali the indicated for for the the preparation preparation of of the the domestic domestic the recipes recipes indicated goose goose and the the Nantes Nantes duckling duckling can can be be applied applied to to bustard. bustard.

. . R R w,R W,R W,R . W,R . w,R W,R w,R W,R . R R w,R W,R W,R . w,R w,R W,R W,R . w,R . R R w,R W,R W . w
164 164

young young shoots shoots are are edible edible and and are are prepared prepared like like asparagus. asparagus.

BUTCHER'S BUTCHER'S BROOM. BROOM. Penr-Eoux PETIT-HOUX -. Shrub with with bitter bitter roots, raots, which which is is one one of of the the five five roots roots used used for for aperitifs. aperitifs. Its Ils

BUTCHER'S BlJTCHER'S SHOP. SHOP. BoucHERq BOUCHERn; - Shop Shop for for the the retail retail sale sale of of meat meat for for human human consumption. consumption. The The meat meat trade trade has has a a long long history. history. The The Jewish Jewish High High Priest Priest in in Biblical Biblical times, times, performin! performing the the sacrificial sacrificial offering, offering, was was the the real real precursor precursor ofthe of the butcher. butcher. In ln Egypt, Egypt, a a fire tire was was lit lit in in front front of of the the altar altar where where a a sacrifice sacrifice was was to ta be be made, made, wine wine was was offered offered and and a Il god god invoked. invoked. The The throat throat of of the the animal animal was was slit, slit, the the head head severed severed and and the the carcase carcase skinned. skinned. The The head head was was taken taken to to market; market; it it was was sold sa Id to to a a Greek Greek if ifone one could cou Id be be found, found, if ifnot, not, the the head head was was thrown thrown into into the the river. river. The The Romans Romans made made similar similar sacrifices, sacrifices, but but created created a a special special
body body of ofmen men to to carry carry out out the the actual actual butchery butcheryof the animals, animais, of the

BUTCHER'S BUTCHER'S SHOP SHOP

animals(l'Encyclopidie) of animai included lhe the slaughtering of which Butcher's shop shop until untJl end ofseventeenth of seventeenth century wll ih induded s (l 'Encyclopdie) Butcher's

for the giving these these men men special special privileges to to compensate compensate for occupation was held in contempt by the higher fact that their occupation an was an classes. Under Under Nero, Nero, the the Roman Roman butcher's shop was butcher's shop classes. a guild, imposing establishment, they established established a and they imposing establishment, and which was subject to official reguJations. regulations. Butchers specialissuarii. called suarii, and selling of pigs were called ing in the buying and In France, guild had by the had been been established by France, a a butchers' butchers'guild In eighth century; apprenticea three years' appreni.iceman had to serve a century; a a man ship further three for a a further meat for cut and and sell sell meat dress, cut and buy, buy, dress, ship and and buy buy an an years before ter butcher and master a mas he could become a before he official diploma; both great deal money. deal of of money. privileges cost a a great both privileges The ter butchers, and master butchers, and master of of mas guild was by a a master directed by The guild was directed not became powerful, arrogating to themselves themselves not arrogating to became extremely extremely powerful, pork and only and mutton, pork veal, mutton, beef, veal, selling beef, monopoly of of selling only the the monopoly sucking-pig, . fish. and river river fish also sea sea and sucking-pig, but also

guild Arms Arms of of the the butchers' butchers' guild

Charles privileges, and and their their their privileges, revoked sorne some of of their Charles VI VI revoked power they century they the sixteenth sixteenth century in the power declined time, but but in declined for for aa time, es men, and were to weresubject subjectto andwere of trad tradesmen, raised to the status statusof were raised to the statutes, them forbade them which forbade were ordinances ordinanceswhich which were among which statutes, among to afteraa openafter keep open authority; keep without authority; new stalls stalls without to open open new certain during orduring abstinence or meat on daysof ofabstinence on days certain time; time; exhibit exhibit meat Lent , and for the the andthat thatonly only for ten, stall out out of often onestail Lent in in more more than thanone sick ; sohcit slaughter customers; slaughter or abuse abuse customers; solicit custom custom or sick; animais cooked sellcooked authorities;sell theauthorities; informing the without informing animals without meat ; or a butcher. butcher. ofa thatof butthat pursueany anyother other trade trade but meat; orpursue They animals healthyanimais from healthy meatfrom tosell sellmeat They were were expected expected to which from notdied diedfrom hadnot andhad properly slaughtered slaughtered and hadbeen beenproperly which had disease andto to wayand prepareititin inaac1ean cleanway to prepare diseaseor orsuffocation, suffocation, to

long, kept for for too too long, fresh or or kept not too too fresh right time, time, not it at at the the right sell it sell it in summer l| days days in summer and It in win winter days in 2 days than 2 i.e., more than - it ter and i.e., human for human unfit for meat became became unfit the meat that the reckoned that being reckoned being these periods after these consumption after consumption Periods.. method of of a method hand, a by hand, out by measured out meat measured The sale sale of of meat The and arguments, and continual arguments, caused continuai estimation, caused approximate estimation, approximate the which offered offered the of scales, scales, which system of replaced by by the the system was replaced was penalties ininand penalties confiscations and Fines, confiscations greatest fairness. fairness. Fines, greatest lawthe lawon the inflicted on rights were were inflicted civil rights loss of of civil volving the the loss volving that provost of to see see that of Paris Paris to the provost of the was the duty It was the dut breakers. It y of breakers. carried out. out. were carried statutes were these statutes these of the end endof until the maintained until were maintained regulations were The royal royal regulations The away in doing doing away succeeded in Napoleon succeeded monarchy. absolute monarchy absolute . Napoleon the created the and created houses, and privately owned slaughter houses, owned slaughter with privately with forced to to were forced as butchers butchers were As soon soon as public slaughter house. As slaughter house. public industry developed developed: the industry of the branches of there, two two branches animals there, take animals take : first covered covered The first retail trade, trade.The and the the retail trade and wholesale trade the wholesale the house, to the the slaughter slaughter house, purchase of transport to of livestock, livestock, transport the purchase the of consisted of room. The The second second consisted the scalding scalding room. the work work of of the and the and consumer. meat to to the the consumer. of meat carcases of retailing the the carcases retailing century, nineteenth century, in the the nineteenth created in were created markets were Cattle markets Cattle for the the Passy for and Passy Pontoise and at Sceaux, Sceaux, Pontoise those at among them them those among butchers from which which butchers up from also set set up was also A fund fund was area. A Paris area. Paris purchases, with withaa for purchases, money for necessary money the necessary could obtain obtain the could be proviso that loan be theloan that the percent interest, and andaaproviso cent interest, charge of of 5 5 per charge of oneof retainedone Thus the butchersretained the butchers repaid within within aafortnight. fortnight. Thus repaid pressdaims claims notpress could not creditorscould privileges. Their Theircreditors theirancient ancient privileges. their inthe the meatin themeat norseize seize the day, nor market clay, of,or oron, on, market on the the eve eveof, on town's thetown's tosafeguard safeguard the wereessential essentialto These conditions conditions were shop. These shop. meat supplies. supplies. meat free, becamefree, meattrade tradebecame themeat centurythe nineteenthcentury thenineteenth Duringthe During was periodduring which itit was during which transition period was aa transition but there there was but prove that thatan an francsto toprove payaafee 3,000francs feeof of3,000 necessaryto to pay necessary possessed the the onepossessed andthat thatone servedand had been beenserved aapprenticeship pprenticeship had presentaacertificate certificate meat,to topresent retailmeat, toretail knowledge to necessary knowledge necessary notto to undertakenot andto toundertake goodconduct andcharacter, character, and conductand of ofgood prefecture three givingthe three theprefecture withoutgiving leave the the business business without leave months' notice, months'notice. 500 wgreonly only500 therewre centurytbere ofthe thecentury middleof Towardsthe themiddle Towards laiddown downthe the regulations laid left.Police Policeregulations shopsleft. retail retailbutcher butchershops betiJed, tiled, hadto tobe theyhad ofshops; shops;they running of relatingto tothe therunning details detailsrelating couldset set positioned.No Nobutcher butchercould wellpositioned. andwell weil wellventilated ventilatedand

165 l6s

BUTTER
up business before the police commissioner of his area had up business before the police commissioner of his area had visited his premises and given his approval. Any butcher visited his premises and given his approval. Any butcher who displayed meat outside his premises was fined. A shop who displayed meat outside his premises was fined. A shop that did not display meat for three consecutive davs was that did not display meat for three consecutive days was closed for six months. closed for six months. kitchensof largecatering oflarge catering establishments establishmentswhich whichbuy buycomcomkitchens pletecarcases carcases or orlarge largecuts cutswholesale, wholesale, or ordirect directfrom fromthe the plete slaughterhou house, fortheir theirown owncooks cooksto tocarve carveand prepare. andprepare. slaughter se, for Butchers'shops shopsalso also have havescales scales which which must mustbe bekept keptvery very Butchers' clean, marble marble tables tablesand andceramic ceramicplates plates to todisplay displaythe themeaL meai. clean, Modern rules rulesof ofhygiene hygienebeing protectfood beingmade madeto toprotect foodfrom from Modern dust, many many butchers' butchers' shops provided with shopsare areprovided withdisplay display dust, counters enclosed enclosed with glass,and withglass, and often often with with means meansof of counters refrigeration.Uncut Uncutcarcases carcasesare arehung hungfrom from rails rails on on hooks, hooks, refrigeration. andenclosed enclosed in in aa refrigerated refrigerated chamber chamber or or in in aa large large and refrigerator. The The walls walls and and Boors floors of of aa butcher's butcher's shop shop are are refrigerator. usually tiled, tiled, and and kept kept scrupulously scrupulously clean. clean. Employees Employeei are are usually dressed in in light-coloured light-coloureci clothes clothes and and wear wearwhite white aprons. aprons. dressed

Butcher's tools ( Nicolas\ Butcher"s 100is (Nicolas)

Since 1863 the number of shops has considerably inSince 1863 the number of shops has considerably increased. They are still controlled by police regulations, but creased. They are still controlled by police regulations, but the butchers' guild no longer has the prerogatives it enjoyed the butchers' guild no longer has the prerogatives it enjoyed under the old r6gime. The. work of slaughtering animals is under the old rgime. The. work of slaughtering animais is now carried out in recognised slaughter except in in a a now carried out in recognised slaughter houses, houses, except very few localities where the butcher does the slauglitering very few localities where the butcher does the slaughtering himself. The bulk of a butcher's work is the preparition oi himself. The bulk of a butcher's work is the preparation of cuts of meat for cooking, and the butcher often stuffs and cuts of meat for cooking, and the butcher often stuffs and dresses the joints himself. dresses the joints himself.

origin of goes back of butter butter goes back to to the the early early nomadic nomadic people people who who origin used the the milk milk of goats, cows, of goats, cows, ewes, ewes, mares, mares, she-asses she-asses and and used prepare it. she-camels t~ to prepare it. she-camels The Aryans Aryans brought brought butter butter to to the the inhabitants inhabitants of India, of India, The who soon soon considered considered it it aa sacred sacred food. food. who The Hebrews Hebrews used used butter butter as as a a medicine medicine as as weil well as as a a food. food. The Abraham offered offered butter, butter, a a symbolic symbolic food, food, to to three three men men who who Abraham came to to his his tent tent in in the plains of the plains of Mamre. Mamre. In In his proverbs his proverbs came Solomon says: 'Surely, the says: 'Surely, the churning churning of milk bringeth of milk bringeth forth forth Solomon butter ... . . .'. butter '. The Scythians Scythians also also had had butter, butter, and and brought brought it it to to the the The Greeks, and and its its use use spread spread throughout throughout the civilised civilised world. world. Greeks, People living living in in sorne some southern southern countries, countries, like like the the Romans, Romans, People used oil oil much much more more than than butter butter in in their their cooking. cooking. This usee! preference still persists in still persists in certain certain parts parts of of the the south south of preference of France, mainly mainly in in Provence, Provence, where where oil plays a oil plays a principal France, part in in ail all the the dishes. dishes. part

BUTTER. BEURRE BEURRE -- Fatty Fatty substances substances extracted extracted from from the the BUTTER. milk of mammals, known of mammals, known and and used used as as food food by by man. man. The The milk

Butcher's cold room (/{icolas) Butcher's col room (Nicolas)

Old making butter Oldway wayof ofmaking butter

work is The prepara tory work iscarried carried out outon onaachopping choppingblock: bl ock : a section of a tree trunk, usually a section of a tree trunk, usually elm, elm, mounted mounted on on three three legs. The slab, also used as a bench, has a cross-grained legs. The slab, also used as a bench, has a cross-grained wooden working surface with fittings for tools, and large wooden working surface with fittings for tools, and large

The preparatory

drawers. The tools include choppers, saws and knives of drawers. The tools include choppers, saws and knives of various sizes; the latter are sometimes placed in a wooden various sizes; the latter are sometimes placed in a wooden case, called a boutique. These tools are often seen in the case, called a boutique, These tools are often seen in the
166 166

Preparation Preparation of of butter butter -- In In their their emulsive emulsive state, state, the the fattv fatty globules globulesof ofmilk milk are are relatively relativelystable, stable, but butwhen when the the liquid liquid is is left left to to stand, stand, they they rise rise to to the the surface surface in in the the form form of ofcrea-. cream. Cream Creamis isgenerally generallyobtained obtainedby bythe thecentrifugation centrifugationof ofmilk milkin in separators. separa tors. Once Onceagitated agitated(in (inwhat whatconstitutes constitutesthe thechurning churning operation) operation) the the fatty fatty globules globules agglutinate agglutinate into into a a compaci compact mass masscalled calledbutter. butter.

BUTTER BUTTER
water). water). It It should should have have a a slightly slightly aromatic aromatic smell smell and and a a sweet, sweet, pleasant pleasant flavour. flav6ur. When When placed placed on on the the tongue tongue it it should should melt melt without without leaving leaving any any deposit. deposit. year it The The colour colom varies varies according according to to the the time time of of year it was was produced produced and and the the type type of of animal animal feeding feeding chosen chosen by by the the farmers. farmers. It It can can be be almost almost white. white. The The content content of of substances substances other other than than fat fat (milk (milk constituents constituents remaining remaining in in the the butter butter after after churning churning and and washing) washing) must must not not exceed exceed 18 18 per per cent, cent, of of which which l6 16 per per cent cent should should be be water. water. energy food Butter Butter is is a a valuable valuableenergy food (750 (750 calories calories per per 100 100 g., g., 4 4 oz.).It oz.). It contains contains a a large large amount amount of of Vitamin Vitamin A A (the (the vitamin vitamin (the anti-rachitic D that that promotes promotes growth) growth) and and Vitamin Vitamin D (the anti-rachitic vitamin), vitamin), but but the the quantities quantities of of these these vary vary according according to to the the quality quality of of the the butter, butter, animal animal feeding feeding methods, methods, and and the the season. season. Unadulterated, Unadulterated, it it is is the the most most digestible digestible of of the the animal animal raw. fats. fats, provided provided that that it it is is eaten eaten raw. Adulteration AduIteration of of butter butter - Like Like many many other other quality quality foods, foods, to fraudulent butter butter used used to to lend lend itself itselfto fraudulent falsification. falsification. Now Now that that industrial indus trial manufacture manufacture (subject (subject to to strict strict controls) controls) has has insufficient is danger replaced replaced farm farrn production, production, the the only only danger is insufficient working working of of the the butter butter mass, mass, leaving leaving a a residue residue of of buttermilk butterrnilk and and water water in in excess excess of of 18 18 per per cent; cent; or, or, in in the the case case of of farm farm butters, butters, the the addition addition of of preservatives, preservatives, such such as as boric boric acid. acid. The The a temperature, high prolonged at too effects effects of of prolonged storage storage at too high a temperature, possibly possibly near near other other foodstuffs, foodstuffs, is is also also a a factor factor that that cannot cannot be be may, at ignored. ignored. Finally, Finally, cattle-food cattle-food may, at certain certain periods periods of of the the year, year, produce produce peculiar peculiar odours odours and and taste; tas te; these, these, however, however, can can be be eliminated eliminated by by industrial industrial processes. processes. The most The most frequent frequent type type of of adulteration adulteration is is that that which which gives gives greasy, rancid or poisonous rise a greasy, rancid or poisonous taste, tas te, the the consequences consequences rise to to a (more frequently) careless productiori, of careless of productiort, or or (more frequently) prolonged prolonged a choosing a can be These drawbacks drawbacks can storage. These storage. be eliminated eliminated by by choosing good brand a good and a reliable retailer reliable retailer and brand of of butter. butter. of There are are various of butter Preservation of Preservation butter - There various methods methods of salting common being preserving two of of the butter, two preserving butter, the most most common being salting and amalgamation. amalgamation. and quantity offine into salt into of fine salt a quantity working a by working is done done by butter is Salted butter SalLed per (3 to 5 per to 5 butters (3 demi'sel butters There are are two two types: types r demi-sel butter. There the butter. the or Demi-sel or (8 to per cent cent salt). salt\. Demi-sel l0 per to 10 butters (8 and salted salted butters cent salt) salt) and cent for cooking. cooking. most suitable suitable for are the the most salted are salted in a a amalgamation in is effected effected by butter is Amalgamated butter AmalgamaLed by amalgamation The second second heat. The processed over intense heat. over intense or processed bain-marie, or bain-marie, qualities, keeping qualities, gives a product that has superior superior keeping that has a product method gives method flavour. process to the the flavour. detrimental to is detrimental but the the pro but cess is purposes; the the cooking purposes; for cooking clarified for frequently c1arified Butter is is frequently Butter in contained in precipitating the the casein casein contained is evaporated, water is evaporated, precipitating water

Modern Modern butter bUlter factory factory (Rayor) (Rayol)

This mass in the churn chum exudes a quantity quantity of of watery watery liquid liquid called buttermilk, buttermilk, which is drawn off. The The remaining remaining solid solid is rinsed rinsed in pure water while still in in the churn, churn, then then worked worked until a a homogenous butter is obtained. obtained. fresh from The cream may be be churned fresh from the cow, cow, but but the quality and and yield of of the quality the butter are are definitely definitely improved improved by by of maturaDuring this period allowing the cream to mature. During period of maturaof under the sour under slightly som turns slightly tion the cream cream turns tion the the influence influence of of maturing farm production ferments. This This farrn lactic lactic ferments. production method of maturing manuis still observed in the industrial the cream before use is indus trial manupreis prematuration is latter case, case, maturation in the latter but, in facture of butter but, facture which ensures ensures ceded by heat treatment called pasteurisation, ceded pasteurisation, which Very high high and and conpossible microbes. of possible the destruction destruction of the microbes. Very yeasts sowing yeasts quality is subsequently sowing is obtained obtained by sistent quality sistent by subsequently in the butter. the butter. and flavouring flavouring elements in containing acidifying and containing

lightly can be be lightly food can butter, food clarified butter, using c1arified By using the butter. butter. By the and, the the butter butter overbrowning and, without overbrowning fried or saut6ed without or sauted fried and causing spitting spitting and without causing dehydrated, without having been been dehydrated, having fat. of fat. splutterings of splutterings CLARIFICATION. butter -- See See CLARIFICATION. of butter Clarification of Clarification
These must vfc6rnuxneunnss VGTAUX VEGETABLE BUTTERS. BEURRES VEGET ABLE BUTTERS. - These must labelled be labelled but should should be butter, but name of of butter, not be the name be sold sold under under the not given a name. 'vegetable fat' a trade trade name. fat'or 'vegetable or given consistency to to give a semi-solid consistency possible a solid solid or or semi-solid to give It is is possi It ble to of hydrogenation of the hydrogenation For example, example, the vegetable oils. oils. For certain vegetable certain produces a a as a a catalyst, catalyst, produces mousse as nickel mousse oil, using using nickel cottonseed oil, cottonseed American of American imitation of in imitation lard -- in or lard butter or kind of artificial butter of artificiaJ kind lard. lard. Fatty substance substance DE CACAO cACAo -- Fatty BEURRE DE butter. BEURRE Cocoa butter. Cocoa in the form of of It is is sold sold in the forrn roasted cocoa cocoa beans. beans. It from roasted obtained from obtained like pleasant taste, taste, like and pleasant sweet and with aa sweet blocks, with rectangular blocks, rectangular 30'C. between 30e. at aa temperature temperature between It melts melts at chocolate. It that of of chocolate. that at aa cooling at (91"F.) and liquid by by cooling (86"F.) and and stays stays liquid 33"C. (91'F.) and 33"e. (86)F.) (73' F.). F. ). at 23' C. (73 lower temperature, solidifying at temperature, solidifying lower
is brands, is several brands, are several product, of which there there are of which This product, This and is is no water water and It con contains well. It very weil. and keeps keeps very sterilised and sterilised tains no

packets of butter Blocks and and packels of buller Blocks (Rayot. Phol. Phot. Nicolas) Nicolas) (Rayol.

packed machine packed is usually butter is usually machine retail distribution. distribution, butter For retail For it has has to to be be regulations, it satisty trade trade regulations, in blocks blocks and and to to satisl'y in paper or greaseproof paper or protected from by greaseproof contamination by from contamination protected packed in in waxed waxed are often often packed and demi-sel demi-sel butters butters are Salted and tinfoil. Salted tinfoil. cardboard cartons. cartons. cardboard good butter have aa semi-soft semi-soft should have A good butter should butter -- A of butter Quality Quality of 'sweat' not to to 'sweat' and ought ought not at room room temperature temperature and consistency at consistency proportion of of (an indication high aa proportion it contains contains too too high indication that that it (an

ne.

t67 167

tsUTTER BUTTER
easily digestible, digestible, perhaps more so than ordinary butter. butter. Its Its taste is neutral neutral and can in no way be r,...,Mn.<l,-,"'; compared 10 to that that of of tasle butter. buller. Coconut butter. butter. BEURRE BEURRE DE DE COCO coco -- A vegetable butter A vegetable butter Coconut frequently used (albuminous lining used in in France. France. The The copra (albuminous lining of of the interior of of the the cocon coconut), put under and put pressure, under pressure, ut), dried and yields an an oil oil used used in in soap-making. soap-making. After After bleaching bleaching and and yelds various other processes the other processes the oil oil is is transformed transformed nto into an an edible edible various product offirm of firm consisteocy, consistency, which which looks looks like like butter. butter. producl Nutmeg butter. butter. BEURRE BETJRRE DE DE MUSCADE MUscADn -- Fatty Fatty substance substance Nutmeg obtained from from nutmegs, nutmegs, sold sold in in the the form form of rectangular of rectangular obtained loaves covered covered with palm leaves. with palm leaves. loaves Walnut butter, butter, hazelnut hazelnut butter, peanut butter. butter, peanut butter. BEURRE BEURRE DE DE Walmrt NoDq NorsETTEs, ARAcHTDES -- Factory-made Factory-made products, NOIX, NOISETIES, ARACHIDES in nutritive high in nutritive value. value. high (1) Butters COMPOUND BUTTERS. BUTTERS. BEURRES srunnEs COMPOSts coMposfu -- (1) Butters COMPOUND mixed with with one generally reduced one or or more more substances, substances, generally reduced to to a a mixe<! (2) Butters pur6e or or chopped. (2) Butters cooked cooked to various degrees, or to various or pure melted, seasoned and and served served spiced; as as accompaniment to to melted, various fish, fish, meat meat and and vegetable dishes. dishes. various Compound butters butters of of the the tirs! first category category are are used either in in used either Compound garnish for sauces and and various various dishes, dishes, or as gamish or a~ for cold cold horshorssauces (5 oz, blanched shallols. shallots. Add g.(5 Add J150 oz.,l0 tablespoons) butter. butter. blanched 50 g. 10 tablespoons) Rub through through aa fine fine sieve. sieve. Rub Uses. In In white white sauces garnish for sauces and and as as aa garnish for cold cold horsftarsUses. d'euvre.It issometimes sometimes ca called beurre ravigote. ravigote. duvre. Il is lied beurre Colbert butter. butter. BEURRE BEURRE COLBERT coLBERT -- Prepare hepare Mat/re Maitre d'hlel d'h6tel Colbert (see below), butter (see below). Add Add !I leaspoon teaspoon chopped chopped tarragon tarragon and and 1 I huiler jelly for tablespoon dissolve(] dissolved meat meat jelly (4 oz" g. (4 for 100 100 g. oz., -1 cup) lablespoon * cup) butter. butter. Uses. Accompaniment Accompaniment for for frie<! fried fish fish d la la Colbert for Colbert and and for Uses grilled meat meat and and fish. fish. grilled Crab butter. butter. BEURRE BEURRE DE DE CRABES cnl,nEs -- Prepare Prepare and and use use as as Shrimp Shrimp Crab (see below), butter (see below), using using small small crabs crabs which which have have been been cooked cooked buller in couri-boulllon c our t -b ouillon (q.v.) (q.v .) and and drained. drained. in Crayfish butter (cold). BEURRE butter (cold). (.4, FROID) BEURRE D'CREVlSSES o'fcnnvrssns ( rnon) -Crayfish Prepare and and use use as (see below), as Shrimp (cold) (see Shrimp huiler butter (cold) below), usng using Prepare shells and and trimmings of of crayfish crayfish cooked cooked d la la mirepoix. miTepoix. shells Crayfish buffer (hot). BEURRE (A CHAUD) nnunne D'CREYlSSES n'fcnsvrssrs ( cmuo) -Pound in in a a mortar mortar the shells shells and and trimmings trimmings of of craynsh crayfish (the lails cooked d la Ia mirepOl'K: mirepolx (the tails being being used used for for some some other other cooked Add the dish). Add the same same amount amount of fresh butter of fresh butter and and blend blend weIl. well. dish), Put the mixture in in a a small small saucepan saucepan standing in a pan standing in a larger larger pan Put hot water, allowing of hot allowing the the cray6sh crayfish butter butter 10 melt slowly. to melt slowly. of When il it is is completely completely melted, melted, pour pow it it through through a a clolh cloth When secured over over a bowl of ced icod waler. water. Twst Twist lhe the cJoth cloth to squeeze squeeze secured out ail all the the butter. This will will solidify in in the icy water, the icy water, when il it oui can be spooned out out of of 1 the and dried dried on on a a muslin cloth. cloth. cao he bowl and Uses. Add Add ta gravies, thick to sauces, sauces, gravies, fish thick shellfish shellfish soups, soups, flsh Uses. forcemeats and and shellfish shellfish ragots. ragoftts. Crayfish butters form form the forcemeats basis d la Nantua. basis for the sauce called Filbert butter. butter. BEURRE BEURRE D'AVELTNEs Prepare in in the the sa same FBbert D'AVEl..lNES me - Prepare way as as Almond butter.It has the the same same uses. Almond buller. lt has Garlic butter. BEURRE BEURRE D'ArL and dry D'AIL Peel, blanch, blanch. drain and - Peel, 8 large large cloves garlic, and cloves garlic, pound in and pound in a a mortar mortar with 2AO g. 8 with 200 (7 oz., oz., scant (7 seant cup) fresh fresh butter. butter. Rub through a sieve. Uses. For celtain sauces, for cold cold horsUses. For certain sauces, and as garnish for

d euvre. d'uvre. Almond butter. butter. BEU~RE (3 oz., BEURRE D'AMANDES D'AMANDEs -- Pound Pound 75 75 g. (3 oz., Almooo cup) sweet sweet blanched and washed washed almonds paste, blanched and almonds to to a a fine paste, 3 cup) ~ adding a few drops a few drops of water to prevent them of cold cold watc( to prevent them tuming turning adding (5 oz" g. (5 oily. Add Add 150 150 g. oz.,l0 tablespoons) butter. Rub through butter. Rub through 10 tablespoons) a fine Sleve. sieve. a garnish for Uses. As for cold cold hors-d'uvre, hors-d'euvre, and and as as an an addition addition Uses. As garnsh to soups soupe and and sorne some white white sauces. sauces. 10 Anchory butter. butter. BEURRE BEURRE D'ANCHOIS D'.q,NcHors Desalt and g. and dry dry 75 75 g. - Desalt Ancbovy (3 oz.) anchovy anchovy fillets and pound a mortar with (3 flllets and pound them lhem in in a mortar with 2N oz., scant scant cup) a fine sieve. 200 g g Q oz., cup) butter. buller. Rub Rub through a fine sieve. Uses. As for Gar/ic (see below). Anehovy Garlic butter Anchovy Uses. As indicated indicated for buller (see good aecompaniment butter a good accompaniment for gdlled fish butter is is also also a for grilled fish and and meat. meat. Bercy Bucy butter. buUer. BEURRE BEURRE BERcy BERCY - Add Add l] 11 tablespoons finely finely chopped pint, scant cup) chopped shallots shaHots to 10 2 2 dl. dl. (| (~ pint, seant cup) white wine wine and and boil by half. half. When When the the liquor liquor is i.s almost almosl cold, eold, add add boil down down by (7 g. 200 oz' 200 (7 oz., scant seant cup) softened softened butter butter and and 500 500 g. g. (18 (l8 oz.) oz.) beef bone-marrotv which has has been been cut eut in in dice, di, poached in in salted salted water water and and drained. drained. Add Add 1 ! tablespoon tablespoon chopped parsley parsley and and the the juice jui of of half half a a lemon. lemon. Season Season with with I 1 teaspoon teaspoon fine fine salt sail and and a a pinch pineh offreshly of freshly gpound ground pepper. pepper. Uses. Uses. Accompaniment Aecompaniment for for grilled grilled fish fish and and meat. meaL Brown BroWl1 butter. buUer. BEURRE BEURRE NorR NOIR - Cook Cook 150 150 g. (5 (5 oz.,l0 oz., 10 tabletablespoons) butter butter to to a a dark dark brown brown colour. col our. Add 2 2 tablespoons tabJespoons (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) washed washed and and dried dried parsley parsley leaves leaves and and IJ tablespoon tablespoon capers. capers. Pour Pour the the butter butter into into a a sauceboat sauce boat or or over over the the food food with with which which it il !s !S to to be be served, served, and and add add a a tablespoon tab!espoon vinegar heated in the the same same pan. pan, heated in Uses. Brown Brown butter butter is is served served with with eggs; eggs; various various fish; fish; vegetables boiled in salted salted water; water; brains; brains; and and a a number number of of vegetables boiled in other other dishes. dishes. For For eggs eggs with with browned browned butter buller omit omit the the parsley parsley and and the the capers. Caviare butter. BETJRRE DE g. (3 butter. BEURRE DE cAvrAR CAYlAR - Pound Pound 75 75 g. (3 oz) oz.) pressed caviare in a mortar. Add 150 g. (5 oz., l0 tablespoons) caviare n a mortar. Add 150 g. (5 oz., 10 lablespoons) butter, and weIL Rub Rub through Ihrough a a fine fine sieve. sieve. and blend b!end well. Uses. Uses. As As a a garnish garnish for for canapds d la la russe rllsse and and for for various various cold hors-d'euvre, and for certain fish forcemeat. cold hors-d'uvre, and for fish forcemeat. Chive Chive butter. butter. BETJRRE BEURRE DE DE crBoulErrr CIBOULETTE _. Prepare Prepare and and use use as as Shallot Shallo/ butter buller (see (seebelow), below), using using green green chives. chves. Chivry Cb.lvry butter. butter. BEURRE BEURRE cHrvRy CHIVR y - Blanch Blanch 15 15 g. g. (* (t oz.) oz.) each each of of parsley, parsley, tarragon tarragon and and chervil cherviJ leaves, leaves, fresh fresh burnet burnet and and chives for 3 minutes chives for 3 minutes in in salted sa!ted water. water. Drain, Drain, dip in in cold cold water, water. and and dry. dry. Pound Pound in in a a mortar mortarwith wi Ih 25 25 g. g. (l (1 oz.,* oz., cup) cup) chopped, chopped.
168 168

d'uuvre. d'uvre.

drained, pounded with with a a little little butter, and and seasoned. seasoned. Uses. Uses. For seasoning seasoning kidney kidney beans and for sprinkling over grilled grilled mushrooms. mushrooms. Green Green butter. BEURRE nEURRE VERT VERT - Wash Wash and dry spinach spinach leaves leaves and and pound pound them them in a mortar. mortaL Put into a strong strong cloth, cio th, twist to to extract all ail the the juice; juiee; pour pour this this into into a double saucepan to to thicken. thicken. Turn out OuI onto onto a a muslin muslin cloth c10lh stretched stretched over over a bowl, and and filter. filler. Scrape off off the the green green residue residue which which remains on the the cloth; cloth; this this is IS called called vert vert d'ipinard d'epinard (spinach (spinach green). green). Add Add double of softened butter butter which which has has been been rubbed rubbed double its ils weight weight of through th.rough a a sieve. steve. Uses. Uses. As As for for Chivry Chivry butter buller and and Montpellier Mon/pellier butter buller (see (see below). below). Hazelnut Hazehml butter. butter. BEURRE BEURRE DE DE NoTsETTE NOISETIE - Prepare Prepare and and use use like like Almond Almond butter, butter, using using lightly lightly roasted roasted hazelnuts hazelnuls or or filbert filbert nuts. nUIS. Herring Hcrrng butter. butter. BEURRE BEURRE DE DB HARENG HARENG - Made Made of fillets fiUets of of pickled pickled herrings, herrings, as as Anchovy Anchovy butter bUller and and used used in in the the same same ways. ways. Horseradish Horseradish butter. butter. BEURRE BEURRE DE DE RATFoRT RAIFORT - Pound Pound in in a a mortar mortar 75 75 g. g. (3 (3 oz., oz., It cup) cup) grated grated horseradish. horseradish. Add Add 2ffi 200 g. g. (7 (7 oz., oz., scant seant cup) cup) butter. butter. Rub Rub through through a a sieve. sieve. Uses. Uses. As As for for Garlic Gar/ic butter. bUller. Kneaded Kneaded butter. buUer. BEURRE BEURRE ru.lNd MAl'Jr - Blend Blend 75 75 g. g. (3 (3 oz., oz., 6 6 tablespoons) lablespoons) butter butter and and 100 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz., oz., I! cup) cu p) flour ftour into in to a a smooth smooth paste. paste. Uses. Uses. To To bind bind some some sauces, sauces, notably notably those those called called ri /a la
matelote. matelole.

Gascogne GAscocxn Gascogne butter. butter. BEURRE BEUR.RE DE DE GASCOGNE - Prepare with garlic, which wh.ich is is first cooked for a a few minutes minUles in salted water. water,

of of 1 1lemon lemon to to 200 200 g. g. (7 (7 oz., oz., scant seant cup) cup) butter. butter. Season with wllh
salt salt and and white white pepper. pepper. Blend Blend well. well.

Lemon Lemoo butter. butter. BEURRE BEURRE DE DE crrRoN CrTRON - Add Add finely grated rind rind

BUTTER BUTTER
Uses. This This is is a a garnish garnish for for cold hors-d'euvre. hors-d'uvre.

Lobster Lobsler butter butter (cold). (cold). BEURRE BEURRE DE DE HoMARD HOMARD (A ( rnon) FROID) Using Using the the creamy ereaml' parts, parts, the the eggs and and the the coral of of the the lobster lobster cooked in court-bouillon court-bouillon (q.v.), proceed proceed as as described described in in recipe recipe cooked in for Shrimp Shrimp butter (cold) (see (see below). Use in in the the same same ways. ways. Lobster Lobstcr butter butter (hot). (Ilot). rnunnE DeuRRE D'HoMARD D'HOMARD (A ( ctt.r'uo) Usrng Using shells and and trimmings of lobster, lobster, which which have have been cooked in in court-bouillon court-bouillon (q.v.) (q.v.) or or d il ln 10 mirepoix mirepoix (q.v.), cooked prepare asfor prepare and and use as for Crayfish Crayfish butter bWler (hot). This butter butter is is often called red red colouring butter, butter, which is prepared prepared by bl' pounding pounding together together in in a a mortar mortar the lhe coral, or eggs, of of various various shellfish which which have have been been cooked rn in coartcour/eggs, bouillon with an equal quantity quantitl' of butter. butter. Maltr Maitre d'hOtel d'hlel butter. butter. BEURRE BEURRE A rn LA M,liTRE MATRE D'HOIEL D'HTEL - Mix 2N 200 g. g. (7 (7 oz., oz., scant seant cup) cup) fresh fresh butter with with l| I~ tablespoons small pinch chopped choppcd parsley, parsley, I :t teaspoon fine fine salt, salt, a a smaU pinch of a dash freshly ground ground pepper pepper and a dash of lemon juice. juice. Stir with a spoon until untiJ it forms a smooth paste. Uses. Accompaniment for grilled meat meal and fish, fish. fish fried in egg and breadcrumbs, and various boiled vegetables. vegetab!es. Melted maltre hbtel butter matre d d'htel buller may mal' be he served separately separalely or put on or under the ingredients which it accompanies. accompanies. Marchand Marchand de de vire "ins butter. butter. BEURRE BEURRE MARcHAND MAN.CHAND DE DE vINs VINS g. (l cup) shallots to Add Add 25 25 g. (1 o2.,1 oz., cup) finely finely chopped shallots 10 3 dl. (| (! pint, pi n t. l| 1~ cups) red wine and boil slowly down to halfha If. Add 2 tablespoons a dissolved meat a tablespoon tablespoon dissolved meat jelly jeUl' or or 2 tablespoons (3 (5 oz., tablestock, 150 g. (5 tables po ons) rich brown brov,Tl veal veal stock, OZ., l0 IOta bletablespoons) softened to a 1 tablespoon chopped spoons) buller softened a paste, paste, I spoons) butter parsley, and the of quarter of a lemon. Season with salt the juice juice of and pepper, and and blend well. and weil. ri la marchand marchand steak Uses. Accompaniment Accompaniment for grilled rump steak
de de vins. vins. Marseille BEURRE DE MARSEILLE Marseille butter. BEUi<RE - Name ironically garlic is for oiL way as as garlic used for oil, in in the same way the same is referred rererred to to as used Marseille vanilla. season FoNDU Melt butter slowly, season BEURRE FONDU Melted butter. BEURRE - Mel! of of white pepper, and add a few drops of with salt and a pinch ofwhite lemon juice. lemon fish and and hoiled boiled for poached Uses. Accompaniment Uses. Accompanimenr for poached fish vegetables. a unuNdnr -A LA n MEUNIRE Meunidre butter. BEURRE BEURRE Meunire - Heat butter in a a dash dash of Add a of pan until light brown colour. Add it acquires a a light brown colour. until it juice and salt lemon JUlce and pepper. salt and prepared rneuniire fish prepared d la la meunire for fish Accompaniment for Uses. Accompaniment Uses. (see BASS, and for for certain vegetables, meuniire) and BASS, Bass Bass d la la meunire) (see poached or in butter. or simmered simmered in poached Blanch in in BEURRE DE DE MONTPELLlER MoNTPELLIER _. butter. BEURRE Montpellier Montpellier butter. - Blanch 20 picked ovcr washed: 20 over and and washed; water the following herbs, pcked salted salted water (1 g. (l 25 g. chives, 25 cress, tarragon, chives. each parsley, chervil, cress, g. (i oz.) each eoz.) zl0 g. (ll oz., g. (It chopped o2.,6 tablespoons) chopped leaves, and 40 oz.) spinach Icaves, oz.) 6 tablespoons) shallot. press well all the well to to extract extract ail dip in in cold cold water, water, and and press Drain, dip gherkins, adding 3 medium-sized gherkins, in a a mortar, mortar, adding 3 medium-sized water. pound Pound in waler. anchovy flUets, fillets, capers,4 desalted anchovy tablespoon well-pressed well-pressed ca lI tablespoon pers, 4 desalted garlic clove. I smalJ and 1 small garlic clove. and reduced to a smooth have been to a smooth all the been reduced When ail the ingredients have When (l* lb., g. (lt paste, add lb., 3t cups) butter. 3 hard3] cups) butter, 3 add 10 to (hem them 750 750 g. paste, yolks. yolks and raw egg and 2 2 raw egg yolks. egg l'o!ks boiled egg pestle, add pounding with little 2 2 dl. dl. a pestle, add little little by by little with a Still pounding Still (| pint, pinch of pint, seant with salt and a a pinch oil. Season Season with salt and of scant cup) olive olive oil. (1 quite pepper. Rub through a a fine fine sieve. Whisk \Inti] until quite cayenne pepper. sieve. Whisk cayenne smooth. smooth. fish. Uses. MainIl' Mainly for for dressing dressing cold cold dishes dishes particularly fish, Uses_ prepared specally for is prepared specially for when Montpellier Montpellier buller butter is However, when raw cro0tons, raw decorating cold and for for spreading spreading on on croltons, cold dshes dishes and decoraling yolks and egg l'olks and oil omitted. oil are are omitted. egg g. 150 g. BEURRE DE DE CHAMP1GNONS cHAMpIcNoNs -Slice 150 butter. BEURRE Mushroom Mushroom butter. - Slice (5 oz., in bUller, mushrooms; toss briskly in butter, toss briskly cups) cullivated cultivated mushrooms; (5 Il cups) oz.,l|
169 169

season season with wth salt and and pepper, peppeT, and and pound pound in in a mortar. mortar. Add Add 150 J 50 g. g. (5 o2.,10 OZ., JO tablespoons) tables po ons) fresh fresh butter, butter, blend blend and and rub rub through through a fine tne sieve. sieve. Uses. Uses. Addition Addition to to white white sauce sauce and and garnish garnish for for cold cold hors-d'euvre. hors-d'uvre. Mustard Mustard butter. butter. BEURRE BEURRE DE DE MoUTARDEMOT AR DE - Add Add 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) mustard mustard to 10 200 g. g, (7 (7 oz., OZ., scant seant cup) cup) butter butter softened to to a paste. paste. Blend well. weiL Uses. The same as those those for Anchovy Anchovy butter. butter.

Noisette butter. BEURRE BEURRE NoIsETTE NOISETTE - Cook butter butter to to a a light light hazelnut colom. hazelnut colour. Uses. Uses. Poured Poured over eggs, eggs, lambs' or 0( calves' brains, brains, skate skate cooked in court-bouillon court-bouillon (q.v.), (q.v.), soft soft roes, roes. and and vegetables vegetables cooked in cooked in water water and well drained. The juice juice of of a lemon Jemon is is squeezed into it it if if served separately. separately. Paprika butter. BEURRE BEURRE DE DE IAIRIKA PAPRIKA - Blend Blel1d into into a a smooth paste pasle 200 g. (7 (7 oz., scant cup) butter, butler) seasoned seasoned with with I ) tablelablespoon paprika. paprika. Uses. Uses, Garnish Garnish for canapis canaps and other cold hors-d'euvre. hors-dUI:re. Pistachio Pistacbio butter. butter. BEURRE BEURRE DE DE plsrActtrs PISTACIfES - Prepard Prepared like like Almond butter, using blanched pistachio A lmond hUiler, piSlachio nuts. nuls. Uses. The same as as Almond Almond butter. a mortar Printanier Printanier butter. BEURRE BEURRE pRINTANIER PRlNTANIER - Pound in a mortar an equal quantity ofbutter of butter and green green vegetables Vo;;;~;"''''U''Q (green peas, asparagus asparagus tips, French beans, beans, etc.) which have been cooked a fine and dried. in water, wClter, drained drained and dried. Blend, and and rub through a sieve. hors-d'euvre; addition Uses. Garnish for cold hors-d'uvre; addition to thickened soups and sorne white sauces. and some for Chivry Chivry Ravigote butter. butter. BEURRE BEURRE RAVIGoTE RAVIGOTE Name for - Name butter. buller, given to I'obster butter Red butter. BEURRE BEURRE RoucE ROUGELobs/er hutter - Name given shellfish. and and butter mixed with other shellflsh. smoked sAUMoN Salmon butter. BEURRE BEURRE DE SAUMON - Using fresh or smoked Anchovy buller. butter. the recipe for Anchovy salmon, proceed salmon, proceed as described in [he Use in the same ways. Prepared and and used used DE SARDli'..'ES sARDINEs Sardine butter. BEURRE BEURRE DE - Prepared oil. llke Anchovy fillets of of sardines in oil. butter, using flllets Anchovy bUller, like drain o'Ecrulorn Shallot butter. BEURRE ShaLlot 6EURRE D'CHALOTE - Shred, blanch, drain pound them in a a morlar. mortar. Add the and pound them in and dry dry 8 8 shallots and and Add the a fine rub through through a and wb same weight of butter and fine sieve. same grilled meal meat and and fish. to grilled Uses. Accompaniment !O Uses. (A FROID) (cold). BEURRE rnoro) DE CREVETTES cREvErrEs ( BEURRE DE butter (cold). Shrimp butter Shrimp an (5 oz.) in a a mortar mortar with with an g. (5 150 g. cooked shrimps in oz.) eooked Pound 150 Pound fine sieve. Rub through a a fine amount of butter. butter. Rub equal amollnt equal garnish for ftorsfor cold cold horsand garnish fish sauces, sauces, and Uses. Addition Addition to to fish USd. cold fish. d'euvre and and cold d'uvre (A CHAUD) (hot). BEURRE cru'uo) -DE CREVETTES cREvErrEs ( snuRRE DE butter (bot). Shrimp hutter prepare in way as as Crayjish Crayfish in the the same same way cooked shrimps, prepare Using cooked

(hot). butter (hol). bUlfer (hot). for Crayfish butter (hot). as for The same Crayfish butler Uses. The same as Uses.

may he be case of of other other shellfish, shellfish, mal' as in in the the case Shrimp butter. butter, as is needed needed for for some flesh is if the the flesh made using only shells, if the shells, only the other dish. PouR BEURRE POUR bourguignonne. BEURRE la bourguignonne. Butter for for snails, snailg i la Butter following Add the the following A LA r,c, BOURGUIGNONNE soURGUIGNoNNE DscARGors, ESCARGOTS, - Add (l+ g. (1 lb., 3 3 cups) cups) best best unsalted unsalted butter: ingredients to to 700 700 g. t lb., garlic eloI/es 2 garlic cloves chopped shallols, shallots, 2 finely chopped cup) fineJy 75 g. oz., i Q oz., e. (3 I cup) (3 tabJespoons) chopped paste, 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons) chopped into paste, tdrblespoons (3 pounded into pepper. and -} parsley. Season teaspoon pepper. salt and 4 teaspoons salt Season with 4 parslel'. ] teaspoon Blend weil. well. Blend bourguignonne. cookedd la bourgugnonne, escargot shells shells cooked Uses. For filling escargol Uses. la is This butter butter is BEURRE DE DE LA1TANCES LAITANcns -- Ths Soft roe roe butter. butter. BEURRE Soft quantities prepared bl' in a a morrar mortar equal quantilies by pounding together in prepared a through a roes ofpickled herrings and and butter, rubbed lhrough ofsoft of soft roes sieve. sieve. prepared bl' pounding in g. in a a mortar mortar 125 125 g. It can by poundng can also also he be prepared H (especially those (4 Oz.) carp), roes of various fish fish (especally those or of carp), oz.) soft of various soft roes (4

BUTTER CREAMS CREAMS BUTTER

poached, cooled cooled and (7OZ., and weil well dried, dried, with with 200 200 g. cup) oz., scant scant cup) E (7 poached, butter. butter. Uses. It It is is added added to to sorne some fish fish sauces sauces and and used used as as a agarnish sarnish Uses. for cold cold hors-d'uvre. hors-d'cuvre for Spiny lobster lobster butter. butter. BEURRE BEURRE DE DE LANGOUSTE LANGousrE -- Prepare, Prepare, using using Spny shells and and trimmings trimmings of of the (U.S. crayfIsh) the spiny spiny lobster lobster (U.S. crayfish) as as for for shells Lobster buller. butter. Use Use in in the the same same ways. ways. Lobsler porvRoNs DOl)}: pimento butter. Sweet pimento butter. BEURRE BEURRE DE DE POIVRONS Eorrx -- Pound Pound Sweet (5 oz.) finely in in a a mortar mortar 150 g. (5 150 g. pimentos (red (red or oz.) sweet sweet pimentos green) or green) finely previously stewed stewed n in butter. (7 OZ., butter. Add g. (7 Add 200 200 g. oz., seant scant cup) cup) previously butter and and rub rub through through a a fine fine sieve. sieve. butter Uses. The The same same as as for for Carlit Garlic buller. butter. Uses. Tarragon botter. butter. BEURRE BEURRE D'ESTRAGON D'EsrRAcoN - Blanch g. (4 (4 Blanch 125 125 g. TarragoD oz.) fresh fresh larragon tarragon leaves leaves for for 2 2 minutes minutes in in salted boiling salted boiling oz.) water. Orain, Drain, dip dip in in cold pound in cold waler, water, dry, dry, and and pound in a a lllortar mortar water. g. (7 (7 OZ., with 200 200 g. oz., seant cup) fresh fresh butter. scant cup) butter. Rub Rub through a fine fine through a with sieve. sieve. Uses. Addition Addition to to various various sauces, garnish for sauces, and and garnish for cold cold Uses. hors-deuvre, especially (see HORSespecially Canap.~ Canapes d la russe (see Ia russe HORShors-d'uvre, D'(EUVRE, Cold Co ld hors-d'uvre). hors- d' euvr e). D'UVRE, Tomato butter, butter. BEURRE BEURRE DI; DE TOMATES roMArEs -- Soften (7 OZ., g. (7 Soften 200 200 g. oz., Tomato cup) bulter, scant cup) butter, add add 2 2 dl. pint, dl. (1 scant cup) cup) concentrated concentrated Q pin seant t, seant juice, and tomato juice, and blend blend weil. well. tomato Uses. The The same same as as for for AnchO}:y Anchovy bUller. butter. It It is is also also used used for for Use.. thickening soups and white soups and white sauces. sauces. thckening Trufre butter. butter. BEURRE BEURRE DE DE TRUFFES TRUFFEs Pound in in a a morlar mortar - Pound Truffle (4 oz.) g. (4 l@ g. oz.) fresh fresh truffies (5 OZ., g. (5 truffies with with 150 150 g. oz-,10 tablespoons) 100 10 tablespoons) butter. Rub Rub through through a a fine fine sieve. sieve. butter. Garnish for Uses. Garnish for canapes canapis and and other other co cold hors-d uuvre. Uses. Id hOH-d'ul're. (tuna fish) Tunny (tuna fish) butter. butter. BEURRE BEURRE DE DE THON THoN Prepare as as Tunny - Prepare Anchovy butter, using tunny in in oil. oil. Anchovy buller, using IUnny Uses. The The same same as as for for Anchovy butter. Uses. Anchovy buller. Walnut DE NOIX NoD( as Almond WalDut butter. butter. BEURRE BEURRE DE - Prepare Prepare as A/mond butter, using dried, blanched walnuts. bUl/er, using dricd, blanched walnuts. Uses. The as for for Almond butter. Uses. The same sa me as Almond butter. White See PIKE. au beurre beurre White butter. butter. BEURRE BEURRE BLANc RLANC - See PIKE, Pike Pik.e au blanc. blanc.

BUTTERMILK. BABEURRE sassuRRE -- Milk Milk which which is is left left after after BUTIERMILK. churning butter. product di.ffers, butter. This This product differs, depending depending on on whether whether churning fresh or or sour sour milk milk is is being being churned, churned, and and on on wbether whether the the fresh cream is is taken taken off off by by centrifugaI centrifugal machillery. machinery. cream Buttermilk contains contains ail all the the casein casein of of milk. milk. This This casein, casein, Buttermilk following acidificaton, acidification, undergoes undergoes changes changes which which render render it it following more soluble soluble and and more more digestible. digestible. It It contains contains aJl all the the mineraI mineral more salts found found in in milk milk and proportion of and a a proportion lactose which of lactose which has has salts yet been not yet been transformed transformed into into lactic lactic acid. acid. not Buttermilk S<lup. soup. SOUPE soupE DE DE RABEl.JRRE BABEURRE -- Mix Mix a little flour a liule flour Buttermilk (wheat, barley, barley, rice, rice, etc.) etc.) allowing allowing one one tablespoon per litre tablespoon per litre (wheat, (scant quart, quart, generous generous quart) quart) in quantity of in a a smaU small quantity cold (seant of cold buttermilk, blending blending to to avoid avoid lumps. lumps. Add Add to to heated heated butterbutterbuttermilk, milk, and and bring bring slowly slowly to to the the boil. boil. Boil quarter, Boil down down by by one one quarter, milk, and sweeten sweeten with with sugar, sugar, allowing allowing 70 g. (2!(29 to 70 to to 90 90 g. to 31 3l oz.) oz.) and (scant quart, per litre sugar per litre (seant quart, generous generous quart). quart). sugar The object object of adding flour of adding flour is is to globules of to break break up up the the globules The of casein and and thus thus make make it it more more digestible. digestible. Prepared Prepared in in this this casein way, buttermilk buttermilk soup soup has has a a nutritive value value to to a a considerable considerable way, extent approaching that that or of human human milk. extent
BUTYRIC ACID. ACID. BUTYRIQUE BUryRreuE -- Acid Acid which which develops develops in in BUTYRIC butter by by oxidation, oxidation, and and which which causes causes it it to to become become rancid. butter BUTYROMETER. BUTYROMTRE suryRoMErns -- Instrument Instrument consisting consisting BUTYROMETER. glass tube of a a calibrated glass tube for for measuring the the butter butter content of of milk. ofmilk. The milk milk is is mixed with with a a certain volume volume of of ether ether which The dissolves the the butter. butter. Then Then an an equal equal volume volume of of alcohol alcohol is dissolves on the surrace form of an surface in the fonn an oily added. The butter floats on layer and its th.ickness, and its thickness, measured graduation of the by the the graduation layer measured by proportion of butter. tube, clearly shows the the proportion butter. tube. BUTYROUS. surynelx BUTYROUS. BUTYREUX appearance of butter. butter. a ppearance of
-

consistency Having the the consistency - Having

and and

BUTTER BUTTER CREAMS CREAMS - See See CREAMS. CREAMS.

BEURRTER BWR..RIER - Small Small dish dish used used for for serving serving butter butter on on the the table. table. Some Sorne butter butter dishes dishes are are made made in in such such a a way way that that the the butter butter is is always always kept kept under under salted salted water. water. Thus Thus enclosed, enclosed, the the butter butter can can be be kept kept fresh frcsh for for a a longer longer period. period. There There are are more more modern modern types types consisting consisting of of a a double-walled, double-walled, bell-shaped bell-shaped cover cover in in porous porous earthenware earthenware filled fiJled with with water, water, which which is is changed changed every every day. day. This This cover coyer is is placed placed over over the the

BUTTER BUITER DISH. DISH.

BUVETTE This was the name given given to the small refreshrefreshBUVETTE - This ment existed under the Ancien ment bars bars that that existed under the Anciel/ Rigime Rgime in in the judicial judicial high high courts. courts. They were necessary at a time when the judges and sat sat often judges assembled very very early early in in the the morning moming and until buyettes became until mid-day mid-day without without intermission. intennission. Later, Later, bU~'elles objects such as objects of of ridicule ridicule and and provoked provoked epigrams epigrams such as the following: following:

With With the strictest equity; eqllity;

Themis Themis inspires inspires the magistrates in in the buvette buvette

butter contained in buttercontained in a a glass glass dish. dish.

During During the hearing can be he observed observed Arrest Arrest after aftcr arrest by by Bacchus Bacchus served. The The Revolution Revolution put put an end to the buvettes bu velles along with with the judicial judicial high high courts; courts; but but they they reappeard reappeared with the legislative legislative
assemblies. assemblies.

LAIT LAIT

E (THER

Butyrometer Butyromeler

t70 170

ranging from the ancient Hebrew Hebrew cabar cabal' (to assemble) term , ranging term, cave).. In In cabare (to dig or make make a cave) to the the mediaeval mediaeval Latin verb cabare to
drinks can be tavem where drinks general sense the term means a tavern a general sometimes food is 00 the the premises, premises, and and where is sometimes where food consumed on served . served. a rustic tavern The name is linked Iioked to the original courtille, a on situated near vineyards, 'a green oasis which became alive 00 people who ftocked flocked there to a joyous joyous throng throng of people holidays with a pleasure a The courtilles against boredorn. boredom.' The a revenge against find in in pleasure them can can were of them some of feast days; days; sorne were reserved for carousing on feast be traced by streets which by the the names exist, identified by still exist, which still be of the the vineyards round Georgeot, clos Georgeot, Thus the the clos courtilles. Thus round the the courtilles. of the the which slopes of southern slopes the southem on the its vineyards on spread its which spread

origin of CABARET - There are are various opinions opinions on the origin of this CABARET

Vignes. des Vignes. the impasse impasse des by the represented by is also also represented Posles, is des Postes, rue des which were were to which approaches to the approaches vineyards, the or vineyards, clos, or These clos, These noblepart of of a a noblesometimes part were sometimes courtilles, were by the the courtilles, enlivened by enlivened guarded -were weil well guarded vineyards were the vineyards and then then the domain, and man's domain, grew the crowd crowd grew Sometimes the fruit. Sometimes forbidden fruit. vines were were forbidden vines provost ofmerchants of merchants The provost rioting. The by rioting. revenge by angry, and and took revenge angry, together down, together burnt down, Barbette, burnt seat, courtille courtille Barbette, his country country seat, had his got to de la la to tbe the clos clos de they got 'And when when they vineyards. his vineyards with his with . 'And not only only it was was not courtille, it famous episcopal episcopal Lourtille, a famous Ville-l'EvAqze, a Ville-I'Evque, hiding under under jibes that canons hidiog fat canons at the the fat aimed at they aimed that they caustic jibes caustic "theogathered for for aa"theohad gathered who had vines, who climbing vines, laden climbing heavily laden heavily banquet". logical banquet". logical

to close to a little little street street close to a given its name to its name has given butte Saint-Roch has the by the traversed by Posteries' traversed des Posteries, clos des the clos Royal; Palais Royal the Palais ; the the

AA cabaret during reign of Franois 1 (Flemish schoof) schoal) Franpisl(Flemish of the reign cabaret duringthe

171 17l

CABARET CABARET
'When the the holidays holidays came people felt came the the people felt they they were werefree freefor for 'When a few few days. days. They They were were not not afraid afraid to to forget forget themselves themselves beside beside a a jug ofwine, of wine, and and when when the hot sun the hot sun rays rays invited invited them them to leave toleave ajug their damp damp and and smoky smoky dwelling-places dwelling-places they they would would venture venture their into the the country, groups, as country, in in groups, as far far as as the the most most distant distant into courtilles. court il/es. 'But, as as we we know, know, not not every every day day is is a a holiday. holiday. Whilst Whilst fully fully 'But, conscious of of the the truth truth of of this this old old axiom, axiom, the people did the people did not not conscious feel any any the less the the less the need need to to satisfy satisfy their their daily daily thirst thirst during during the the feel week. On On Sundays Sundays they they could could regard regard it it as as a a duty. duty. week. 'They needed needed therefore, therefore, in in the the absence absence of of the the courtilles courtilles 'They reserved for for carousing good feast carousing on on good feast days, days, sorne place not some place not reserved far from from their their homes homes where where they they cou could minister to to the the capcapfar Id minister rices of of this this daily daily thirst. thirst. These These places places were were the the first frrst cabarets. cabarets. rices 'A drinker drinker worthy worthy of of the the name name never never mistook mistooka cabaret for for 'A a cabaret a tavern. tavern. In In a a tavern tavern he he could could sit sit down down at at a a table table and and drink drink a but he he could could not not do do so so in in a a cabaret; cabaret; he he had had to to drink drink outside. outside. but 'A stout stout wood wooden guarded the trellis-work guarded the entry entry to to the the 'A en trellis-work houses of of cabaret cabaret keepers. keepers. Through Through an an opening opening cut cut in in the the houses trellis-work the publican handed the publican handed the the wine wine to to the the customer. customer. trellis-work jug, which He had had to to hold hold the which he the jug, he used used as as a a measure, measure, upside upside He down to to show show that that there possible way there was was no no possible way of of drinking drinking down premises. Such on his his premises. Such were were the the official official orders provost, orders of of the the provost, on and the the inn-keeper inn-keeper had had to to abide abide by by this this method method of of selling selling and "by means jug" !' means of a a cut cut door door and and an an overturned overturned jug"!' "by In the the centuries centuries which which followed, followed, the the cabarets cabarets became became In identified with with taverns, taverns, and and the the two two words became became synonysynonyidentified mous. Some cabarets cabarels which were frequented frequented by by writers, writers, especially especially Sorne in the the seventeenth century, century, acquired acquired lasting lasting fame. fame. Among Among in (n rue them were were le le MouLOn Mouton blanc blanc (in rue du du Vieux-Colombier) Vieux-Colombier) them where Racine, Racine, La La Fontaine Fontaine and and Boileau Boileau used used to to meet; meet; le le where (rue du Sabot (rue du Pot-de-Fer) where Ronsard Ronsard would come come in in for for a drink drink and and which which Chapelain also also visited; visited; l'Ecu l'Ecu d'Argent; d'Argent; a (rue de la Licorne), the meeting-place meeting-place of the the la Pomme de Pin (rue scholars by Rabelais. Rabelais. Notable Notable among among eighteenth eighteenth scholars mentioned by century inns were (on the were le le Caveau (on the Buci crossroads) crossroads) where Coll6, Piron and and many other other epicureans epicureans used used to to gather to Coll, sing songs and and where 1737 the where in in 1737 the Caveau sing their their bawdy bawdy songs (rue de formed; and and le le Chat Chat blanc blanc (rue de la la VieiIJeVieilleSociety was was formed; Lanterne). Lanterne).

nutritional point pointof view.It It isisrich ofview. rich in inVitamins VitaminsBI Bland andB2 82 nutritional (essential for forthe assimilation of theassimilation andfats), fats), in ofsugars sugarsand inVitamin Vitamin (essential (itcon C(it contains asmuch muchas asaalemon), lemon),and andin inVitamin VitaminK. K.MoreMoreC tains as over, it quantities of it contains contains large largequantities mineralsalts: ofmineraI salts:calcium, calcium, over, potassium, sulphur, magnesium, potassium, sulphur, etc. etc.Unfortunately, Unfortunately, owing owing magnesium, to its its indigestibility, indigestibility, it it requires prolongedcooking requires prolonged cookingduring during to (This disadvantage which much much ofits nutritional value of its nutritional value is lost. (This islost. which disadvantage partly overcome can be overcomeby be partly byshredding shreddingthe thecabbage cabbage finely finely and can and cooking it it rapidly rapidly in inaacupfuJ cupfulof cooking ofboiling boiling water.) water.) Dietetically Dietetically speaking, it it is isbest besteaten raw. eaten raw. speaking, GREEN CABBAGE. CABBAGE. CHOUX cHoux VERTS vERrs- GREEN Boiled cabbage. cabbage. CHOU cHou VERT VERT AL'ANGLAISE Boiled r'ANGLArss - - Cut Cut aacabbage cabbage quarters. Remove into quarters. Remove the part of the fibrous fibrous part into of the the stem stemand and the the coarse outer outer Ieaves, leaves, cook cook in in salt coarse salt water wateruntil until tender. tender. Drain, Drain, press between plates to between two two plates press sture, slice to extract extract the the moi moisture, slice cabcabbage into into rectangles. rectangles. bage Green cabbage prepared in cabbage prepared in this Green this way wayis isused usedas asaavegetable vegetable with melted served with melted butter, garnish. served butter, or or as asa agarnish. Braised cabbage. cabbage. CHOU cHou VERT vERr BRAIS Braised sn,Ars6 -- Divide Divide aa cabbage cabbage quarters, blanch, into quarters, put under into blanch, put under the the cold cold tap, tap, and and then drain. then drain. Break up up the the cabbage cabbage and and remove remove the portions of Break the thick thick portions the of the stem. Season pepper and stem. Season with with salt, grated nutmeg. salt, pepper and grated nutmeg. Line Line aa deep casserole casserole with deep with strips larding bacon, strips of of larding add the bacon, add the cabbage, cabbage, an on onion an ion stuck ove, a with aa cl stuck with clove, a large large carrot quarters, carrot cut cut into into quarters, garni (q.v.). (q.v.). Moisten and a a bouquet bouquet garni and Moisten with with stock stock which which has has not not (if there been skimmed been skimmed of of its its fat fat (if there is is no no fat, fat, add add 3 3 tablespoons tablespoons (scant t (scant cup) c1arified clarified fat fat to to it). it). Coyer with strips Cover with strips of of fat fat bacon. bacon. f cup) Start the stove Start cooking cooking on on top top of ofthe stove then pan and then coyer cover the put and put the pan it in in a a moderate moderate oyen it oven for for about about 11 l| hours. hours. piece of A A piece of blanched pork can lean pork blanched lean added. Braised can be be added. Braised cabbage cabbage may be used used as may be as a a vegetable vegetable but, more often, but, more often, appears appears garnish. in a in a garnish. Cabbage in marinade. Cabbage in marinade. CHOU cHou VERT vnnr MARIN MlnrNf -- Prepared Prepared like like Red cabbage (see below). Red cabbage in in marinade marinade (see below). Cabbage Cabbage salado slrnoE DE DE CHOU salad. SALADE cHou VERT VERT -- Slice Slice the the cabbage cabbage finely, finely, blanch for for 15 15 minutes minutes in in salted salted water. water. Put Put under under the the cold cold tap, tap, drain drain and and dry. dry. Season Season with with oil, oil, vinegar, vinegar, salt salt and and pepper like pepper like an green salado an ordinary ordinary green salad.

CABARET set, including CABARET (Liquarr (Liqueur stand) liqueur set, including glasses - A liqueur and either on on a a tray and decanters, decanters, presented presented either tray or or in in a a special
cabinet.

CABBAGE. cHou CHOU - Highly esteemed by by the the Greeks Greeks and particularly particularly by by the Romans, the cabbage seems to have been unknown to the Hebrews. It is not mentioned in the Bible. Apart Apart from seakale, no 00 species species of cabbage survives survives in a wild state. state. A developed through A great many new varieties have been developed cultivation. cultivation. The three three main classes of full-hearted full-hearted cabbages are: are: the 'headed' 'headed' smooth-leafed smooth-leafed green green cabbage, cabbage, the the Milan Milan curlyleafed leafed cabbage, cabbage, and the the red red cabbage. cabbage. The The spring spring 'headed' cabbage cabbage is usually usually conical and com-

monly known as'pointed'cabbage. as 'pointed' cabbage. The summer or autumn autumn monly known 'headed' 'headed' cabbage cabbage is is rounder rounder in in shape shape and and includes includes the varieties varieties de de Boston Boston or de de Brunswick Brunswick and and quintal d'Alsace which which are are often often used used in in the the manufacture manufacture of of sauerkraut.Best sauerkraut. Best known known of of the the winter win ter cabbages cabbages are de de Nol Nol and de de Vaugirard Vaugirard
d'hiver. d'hiver. Milan Milan cabbages cabbages have have curly curly (occasionally (occasionally crinkled) crinkled) leaves. leaves. There There are are no no less less than than twenty-five twenty-five varieties. varieties. Five Five varieties varieties of of red red cabbage cabbage are are cultivated cultivated in in France. France. These These are are common common to to all ail regions regions and and are are in in season season throughthroughout out the the year. year. The The cabbage cabbage is is a a particularly particularly interesting interesting vegetable vegetable from from a a

Little balls (Larousse) Little stuffed (Larousse) stuffed cabbage cabbage balls

pnrrrs CHOUX Little stuffed stuffed cabbage cabbage balls. balls. PETITS porJR GARNITURE Little cHoux POUR cARNrruRE

- Divide a large cabbage into quarters, wash, alarge wash, blanch blanch for for 8 8 to to 10 minutes in salt water, rinse, and and drain. l0 drain. Remove all aIl the leaves and them by by paring the Remove and trim them ribbed the ribbed stuffing with with the the tender tender inner inner leaves leaves and stalks. Make a stuffing and an an of forcemeat. Put a round of equal quantity of a round of stuffing stuffing on on each each leaf and roll into tight balls. balls. Braise Braise in in the the usual usual way. leaf way. cabbage balls balls are are used used to to garnish gamish large large braised braised Stuffed cabbage joints. joints. The cabbage leaves leaves can be be stuffed stuffed with with all ail kinds kinds of of hashes or pur6es. pures. hashes
172 t72

CABBAGE CABBAGE

:].$!
( Robert Carrier) provengale(Robert laprovenale cabbage aala Stuffed cabbage Stuffed Carrier)

173

CABBAGE PALM CABBAGEPALM

t::iiii]:

:ij:iiliilXi:!:ii]ti ::;]:i

Stuffed cabbage (I-ar ous se') Sluffed cabbage (Larousse)

Stuffd cabbage. cabbage. CHOU cuou VERT vERT FARCI FARCr -- Blanch Blanch a a whole whole cabcabStuffed bage in in salted salted water, put it water, put it under under the the cold cold tap, tap, drain, drain, and and bage remove the stem. stem. remove the Spread out out the the cabbage cabbage on on a a damp damp cloth. cloth. Stuff Stuff the the heart heart Spread with a a ball pork stuffing. ball of of fine fine pork stuffing. Close Close the the leaves leaves round round this, this, with and fill the outer leaves, closing them in to reform the shape and fill the outer leaves, closing them in to reform the shape of the the cabbage. cabbage. Wrap Wrap in in thin thin strips strips of of bacon bacon fat fat and and tie in the the tie in of cloth. Put Put the the cabbage cabbage in in a a braising pan lined braising pan lined with with bacon bacon cloth. rinds and slices of onion and carrot. rinds and s!ices of onion and carrot. Cover with with a a fat fat stock stock and and braise braise for for about about 1 l] hours. Coyer t hours. Drain the cabbage and and remove remove the the bards. bards. Serve Serve with with a a sauce sauce Drain the cabbage made of of the the cooking cooking liquor liquor boiled boiled down down and and enriched with enriched with made a !ittle little brown brown sauce. sauce. This This stuffed stuffed cabbage, cabbage, cut cut into into thick thick a slices, is served as a garnish for large joints. s!ices, is served as a garnish for large joints. The cabbage can be prepared in another way. Remove the The cabbage can be prepared in another way. Remove the heart, chop the tender tender leaves, leaves, mix mix with with the the stuffing stuffing and and fil! fill heart, chop the the cabbage with this mixture and braise it. the cabbage with this mixture and braise it. Stufred cabbage i la (Nigoise cookery). la provengale provenale (Nioise cookery). cuou CHOU Stuffed cabbage FARcr - Blanch a large cabbage for 8 mindtes in salted water, FARCI Blanch a large cabbage for 8 minutes in salted water, rinse in cold water, and drain. Remove the large outer leaves rinse in cold water, and drain. Remove the large outer leaves and stems. Spread Spread these and the the ribbed ribbed stems. these leaves leaves out out flat flat on on a a thin thin damp cloth stretched on on the damp cloth stretched the table table and and chop chop the the inside inside leaves. Stuff the outer leaves with the chopped-up leaves and leaves. Stuff the outer leaves with the chopped-up leaves and the following ingredients, arranged in layers: 250 g. (9 oz.) the following ingredients, arranged in layers: 250 g. (9 oz.) blanched blanched best best leaves; leaves; 2N 200 e.Q g. (7 oz.') oz.) diced diced and and browned browned lean lean pork; I mediumsized onion, pork; 1 medium-sized onion, chopped chopped and and lightly lightly fried fried in in butter; 2 large peeled, tomatoes, seeded and chopped; butter; 2 large tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped; 100 g. (4 oz., f, cup) blanched rice; 100 g. (4 oz., f cup) fresh 100 g. (4 oz.,J cup) blanched rice; 100 g. (4 oz., J. cup) fresh green peas; 750 g. (l+ lb.) sausage meat seasoned with a green peas; 750 g. (li lb.) sausage meat seasoned with a crushed garlic clove. crushed garlic clove. Fold Fold the the cabbage cabbage leaves leaves round round the the stuffing stuffing in in the the form form of of a a ball, tie up the cloth and put into a pot-au-feu prepared in the bail, tie up the cio th and put into a pot-au-feu prepared in the usual way but using mutton instead of beef. Cook slowlv for usual way but using mutton instead ofbeef. Cook slowly for about 3| hours. about 3t hours. Drain Drain the the cabbage cabbage and and pour pour a a few few tablespoons tablespoons of of the the cooking liquor over it. cooking liquor over it. This dish, which is fundamental to the cuisine nigoise, can This dish, which is fundamental to the cuisine nioise, can be served with the soup from the pot-au-feu in which it was be served with the soup from the pot-au-feu in which it was cooked. cooked. Stufred cabbage rolls. csou vERr FARcr EN BALLoTTTNE Stuffed cabbage roUs. CHOU VERT FARCI EN BALLOTTINE Lay out slices of larding bacon on a damp cloth and place on Lay out slices of larding bacon on a damp cloth and place on top ofthem cabbage leaves which have been blanched, rinsed top ofthem cabbage leaves whicb have been blanched, rinsed put and dried, the leaves and dried, the leaves overlapping overlapping to to form form a a rectangle. rectangle. Put rolls of stuffing roUs of stuffing in in the the centre centre of ofthe the leaves, leaves, wrap wrap them them round round the stuffing, and tie up in the cloth. Braise in the manner the stuffing, and tie up in the clotho Braise in the manner indicated above. indicated above.
Red cabbage i la flamande. cHou RoucE A r-a rr.c,MA.NDE Red cabbage la Oamande. CHOU ROUGE LA FLAMANDEWash, quarter and shred the cabbage, removing the hard Wash, quarter and shred the cabbage, removing the hard core and stem. Season with salt and pepper, and sprinkle core and stem. Season with salt and pepper, and sprinkle with a few with a few drops drops of of vinegar. vinegar. Cook Cook slowly slowly in in butter. butter. When When

three-quarters cooked cookedadd add33 peeled, peeled, quartered quartered tart tart apples apples three-quarters and 1I tablespoon tablespoon brown brownsugar. sugar. Finish Finish cooking cooking on onaa low low and heat, the theoverall overall time time being beingabout about 22hours. hours. heat, Redcabbage cabbage i la la limousine. limousine. CHOU cHou ROUGE Roucn ALA rn LIMOUSINE ruvrousrxr - Red Shred the the cabbage put it cabbage and and put it into intoan anearthenware earthenwarecasserole. casserole. Shred Moistenwith with bouillon bouillon and and add add44 tablespoons ($cup) tablespoons (1 pork cup) pork Moisten fat, and andchopped peeled chestnuts. chopped peeled chestnuts. Season Season with with salt salt and and fat, pepper. Cook Cook with with the the lid lid on on for for about about 2 2 hours. hours. pepper. Red cabbage cabbage in in marinade. marinade. CHOU cuou ROUGE Roucr MARIN rra.qnrlri - - Shred Shred the the Red cabbage after after removing removing the the hard hard core core and and ribs. ribs. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with cabbage fine salt salt and and leave leave for for 48 48 hours, hours, stirring stirring from from time time to to time. time. fine Drain the the cabbage cabbage and put it and put it in in an an earthenware earthenware bowl bowl with with Drain peppercorns, fragments fragments of of bay bay leaf, leaf, and garlic clove. a garlic and a clove. Coyer Cover peppercorns, with vinegar vinegar which which has has been been boiled boiled and and aUowed allowed to to cool. cool. with Marinate for for 24 24 to to 48 48 hours. hours. Marinate Red cabbage cabbage in in marinade marinade is is used used as as an an hors-d'uvre. hors-d'euvre.It is Red It is also served served with with boiled boiled beef. beef. also Stalks and and stumps stumps of of red red and green cabbage. and green cabbage. MOELLE MoELLE DE DE Stalks cHou ROUGE RoucE ET ET CHOU cHou VERT VERT -- The The core of these these vegetables core of vegetables is is CHOU usually discarded, discarded, but it can but it can be be very very tasty tasty and and can, if well can, if well usually cooked, provide provide very good dishes. very good dishes. cooked, Remove ail all the the woody woody outer outer casing. casing. Blanch Blanch whole whole if if it it is is Remove to be be served served with with the the vegetable. vegetable. If If it it is is to to be be cooked cooked sepasepato rately, cut into rounds. cut into rounds. After After blanching, blanching, these these stalks stalks and rately, stumps can prepared in can be be prepared in the the same same way as artichoke way as artichoke stalks stalks stumps or endive endive stumps. stumps. or
pALMrsrE - Terminal CABBAGE PALM. PALM. PALMISTE bud of of several CABBAGE - Terminal bud species of palm. of palm. species pALMrsrE EN palm en (Creole cookery). Cabbage palm en daube daube (Creole cookery). PALMISTE Cabbage DAUBE Parboil pieces pieces of of cabbage palm palm shoots cut lengthDAUBE - Parboil ways into into strips strips and and tied tied in in bundles to to keep them them together. ways Brown in in fat on a a low low heat heat for for about about 30 30 minutes. Add Add 1 I Brown fat on tablespoon flour flour and and blend in, frying frying it lightly. Add t it lightly. tablespoon blend it it in, I teaspoon tomato puree and and moisten spoon tomato pure moisten with concentrated chicken stock prepared advance from giblets. stock prepared in in advance from chicken giblets. Cook for several minutes, Cook for several minutes, put put in in the the oven oyen for for a a while without without allowing al!owing the the top to brown, brown, and serve serve in a little little sauce. sauce.

CABERNET CABERNET - Variety Variety of of vine vine grown grown extensively in in the Bordeaux Bordea x vineyards. vineyards. There There are are t;o two species: cabernet-franc cabernet-franc and, c aberne t - s auv ignon. and cabernet-sauvignon. The The red red wines wines of of Chinon, Chinon, Bourgueil Bourgueil and and SaumurChampigny Champigny are are also also made made from from this grape. grape. A A well-known wel!-known Anjou Anjou ros6 ros bears bears the the same same name. name.

CACHALOT CACHALOT (Sperm-whale) (Sperm-whale) - Sea mammal, mammal, the the flesh flesh of of which which is is sometimes sometimes used used as as food. food.

RED RoucES RED CABBAGE. CAB BAGE. cHoux CHOUX ROUGES -

Stuffed Sluffedcabbage cabbagerolls rolls

r74 174

CAF6S CAFS
CACHOU. CACHOU. cAcHUND6 CACHUND -- Aromatic Aromatic tablets tablets used used in in the the Far Far East, East, to towhich which stomachic stomachicproperties propertiesare areattributed. attributed. They Theyare are mainly mainly used used to to freshen freshen and and sweeten sweeten breath breath and and are are made made of of
amber, amber, musk, musk, sandalwood, sandalwood, sweet sweet calamus, cala mus, galingale, galingale, cincinnamon, namon, bole, bole, etc. etc. went At At the the same same period period in in Paris Paris a a man man called called Candiol Candiol went utensils. He about about carrying carrying a a hawker's hawker's tray tray with with domestic domestic utensils. He price of also also sold sold coffee, coffee, which which could could be be taken taken home home at at the the price of Joseph, two two sorrs sous a a cup, cup, including including sugar. sugar. His His associate, associate, Joseph,
These caf6s Andr6-des-Arts, Andr-des-Arts, facing facing the the Saint-Michel Saint-Michel bridge. bridge. These cafs frewere than dirty dirty little little smoking-saloons smoking-saloons frewere really really no no more more than from the Lebanon travellers smokers, quented by confirmed quented by confirmed smokers, travellers from the Lebanon sold in these ind and by by several several Knights Knights of of Malta' Malta. The The coffee coffee sold in these were 56 shops shops was was mediocre mediocre and and badly badly served. served. By By 1754 1754 there there were 56 their caf6i cafs in in Paris; Paris; by by the the end end of of the the eighteenth eighteenth century century their quality' numbers numbers had had risen risen to to 600, 600, of of a a much mu ch higher higher quality. as meetingThe The caf6s cafs very very soon soon replaced replaced the the cabarets cabarets as meetingcafes the first was places of letters. letters. Among Among literary literary cafs the first was places for for men men of near the the the Cafi Caf dt du Parnasse Parnasse at at the the end end of of the the Pont-Neuf, Pont-Neuf, near the in rue Dauphine; Samaritaine; Samaritaine; then then the the Veuve Veuve Lourent, Laurent, in rue Dauprune; goes back to the eightand and the the Cafi Caf Procope Procope whose whose fame fame goes back to the eightregulars Buffon, eenth eenth century cent ury when when it it counted counted among among its its regulars Buffon, d'AlemGilbert, Marmontel, Voltaire, Voltaire, d'Holbach' d'Holbach, Diderot' Djderot, d'AlemGilbert, Marmontel, bert bert and and others. others. rue Saint-Antoine The The widow widow Fournier, Fournier, whose whose caf6 caf in in rue Saint-Antoine first to think of the was was founded founded by by Baptiste Baptiste in in 1690, 1690, was was the the first to think of the newspapers' idea of providing providing her her regular regular customers customers with with newspapers. idea of and Journal des edto She Gazette de de France, France, Mercure Mercure and Journal des She subscrib subscribed to Gazette was the Savants.The Caf des des Grhces, Grces, in in rue rue de de I'Arbre-Sec, l'Arbre-Sec, was the Savants. The Cafi The Cafe first establishment in in Paris Paris to to have have public public billiards' billiards. The Caf first establishment chess-players, de de la la Rigence Rgence became became the the meeting-place meeting-place of of chess-players, against the and Jean-Jacques and Jean-Jacques Rousseau Rousseau tried tried his his skill skill there there against the the cafes played Revolution the During Philidor. celebrated celebrated Philidor. During the Revolution the cafs played committees of as meeting-places an important an important r6le rle as meeting-places of of secret secret committees of as tribunes for and as Convention and of the members members of the National National Convention tribunes for orators. orators. of fame: too, have caf6s, too, The Palajs-Royal Palais-Royal cafs, The have had had their their hour hour of fame: Cafd and Caf Corazza and Cafi Corazza Rotonde, Caf de la la Rotonde, Foy, Caf Cafi de de Foy, Cafe de Caf officers on Bonapartist officers of Bonapartist were the the meeting-places Lamblin were meeting-places of on Lamblin half-pay. half-pay. Riche caf6s, Cafi Boulevard cafs, the Boulevard Empire the the Second Second Empire Under the Under Caf Riche of meeting-places of the meeting-places were the Frascati, were all, Caf Cafi Frascati, above ail, and, above and, journalists. When disFrascati's disWhen Frascati's and journalists. dramatists and writers, dramatists writers, In the the Latin Napolitain' In Cafd Napolitain. by Caf replaced by it was was replaced appeared, it appeared, Latin at Caf CafE Vachette. held court court at Mor6as held Jean Moras Quarter, Jean Quarter, Vachette. and more more numerous and more numerous although more caf6s, although Today the the cafs, Today political and and literary same political not the the same have not ever, have luxurious than than ever, luxurious Iiterary perhaps of a few Left Bank exception perhaps with the the exception influence, with influence, of a few Left Bank

in rue Sainta opened another another in rue Sainta Levantine Levantine from from Aleppo, Aleppo, opened

and Etienne, opened opened a a caf1 cafat atthe theend end of ofNotre-Dame Notre-Damebridge, bridge, and Etienne,

Cadenas Cadenas for for the the roYal royal cutlery cutlery

CADENAS CADENAS - Container, Container, with with grooves, grooves, which which closed closed like Iike a a drawer. It It was was used used in the the royal royal households households for for the the same same purpurpos pose as as the nef, a basket basket containing royal royal cutlery, cutlery, napkins, napkins, etc. It held he Id fork, knife and spoon, and bread bread was was placed placed on on on the dish. dish. Under Louis XIV XIV it it became became a a hexagonal hexagonal tray trayon which napkin, napkin, fork, knife knife and spoon spoon were placed. placed. The The grand grand on his andthe pantler pantler had the nef nef and the cadenas cadenas conjoined conjoined on his coat-ofcoat-ofarms.

only liquid CAFES CAFS where, in in principle, principle, only liquid - Establishments where, coffee. and coffee. refreshments refreshments are served, originally only wine wine and quantities to to in large coffee in first brought coffee Aga first Suleiman Aga large quantities a opened a Pascal opened called Pascal Armenian called an Annenian 1669. Later, Later, an in 1669. France in a roaring roaring and did did a fair, and Saint-Germain fair, at the the Saint-Germain shop at coffee shop coffee a opened a and opened quai de I'Ecole and de l'cole fair, he went to quai trade. After the fair, at the the SaintSaintas at success as same success not have the same did not but did new new shop shop but had coffee had where coffee London' where to London, went to He then then went fair. He Germain Germain fair. Armenian' another Armenian, Pascal, another After Pascal, 1652. After known since since 1652. been been known to went to later went while later little while a little but a caf, but a caf, opened a Maliban, opened Maliban, who Gregoire who called Gregoire a man man called to a house to leaving his his house Holland, leaving Holland, the near the be near to be rue Mazarine Mazarine to to rue his establishment establishment to moved moved his rue opposite rue street, opposite in that that street, then in was then which was Comddie which Comdie Gu6n6gaud. Gungaud.

1830(ScltaaD AAcaf6in caf in 1830 (Schaaf)

175 175

CAFFEINE CAFFEINE
establishments, which still serve as meeting-places for young establishments, which still serve as meeting-places for young literary and artistic movements. (See RESTAURANTS OF literary and artistic movements. (See RESTAURANTS OF BYGONE DAYS.) BYGONE DAYS.) CAFFEINE. cAFErr\E Alkatoid substance contained in CAFFEINE. CAFINE - - Alkaloid substance contained in coffee, which acts on the nervous system. A moderate amount coffee, which acts on the nervous system. A moderate amoun t of coffee soothes, eliminates the feeling of tiredness and of coffee soothes, eliminates the feeling of tiredness and exhaustion, makes mental work easier, dispels drowsiness. exhaustion, makes mental work easier, dispels drowsiness. A bigger dose can bring on nervous excitation,trembling, trembling, A bigger dose can bring on nervous excitation, insomnia. insomnia. Coflee has a stimulating effect on the heart if taken in Coffee has a stimulating effect on the heart if taken in moderation; excessive coffee drinking causes palpitations moderation; excessive coffee d rinking causes pal pitations and irregularity of the heartbeat. and irregularity of the heartbeat. Coffee also acts as a digestive stimulant, speeding the Coffee also acts as a digestive stimulant, speeding the passage of food through the the body (and often body (and ofien causing causing passage of food through diarrhoea). It can have a diuretic effect. On the other handl diarrhoea). It can have a diuretic effect. On the other hand, cases of articular deformation, cited by Brillat-Savarin, are cases of articular deformation, cited by Brillat-Savarin, are not caused by excessive intake ofcoffee. not caused by excessive intake of coffee. (especially strong black coffee) must not be given to 99tr* (especially Coffee strong black coffee) must not be given to children, adolescents, people of nervous disposition or those children, adolescents, people ofnervous disposition or those suffering from heart conditions; nor shouid it be given to suffering from heart conditions; Dor should it be given to certain dyspeptics. certain dyspeptics. Although Voltaire, who drank six cups of coffee daily, was Although Voltaire, who drank six cups ofcoffee daily, was loud in its praise, his over-indulgence could have have bad lad aa loud in its praise, his over-indulgence could bearing on the enterocolitis from which he suffered to the bearing on the enterocolitis from which he suffered to the end of his life. end of his life. Finally, black coffee ought never to be drunk on an empty Finally, black coffee ought never to be drunk on an empty stomach and white coffee is even worse for the svstem than stomach and white coffee is even worse for the system than black. black. CAILLEBOTTE (Curds) - Name given in certain regions of CAILLEBOTTE (Curds) Name given in certain regions of France to curdled milk, drained in a muslin bag and eaten France to curdled milk, drained in a muslin bag and eaten

CAILLIER- -Wooden Woodenvessel vesselused usedin inthe MiddleAges theMiddle Ages and CAILLIER and untilthe the ofthe the endof sixteenth century centuryas as drinkingcup. cup.It Itwas was until end sixteenth aa drinking madein inthe theshape shapeof ofaabowl bowlof ofaverage averagesize supportedby size bya a made supported leg,the thewhole wholecarved carvedout pieceof outof ofone onepiece ofwood. wood.There Therewere were leg, alsobowls bowlsmade madein ina alarger largersize sizewhich whichserved servedas ascontainers containers also forwine, wine,the thebowl-shaped bowl-shapedlids lidsbeing beingused usedas as drinkingvessels. vessels. for drinking
CAISSETTES- - Small garnishedcases Smallgarnished casesoffered offeredas ashot hothorsCAISSETTES ftorsd'euvre or oras asaasmall (SeeHORS-D'UVRE, smallentre. entrie.(See HORS-D'(EUVRE, Hot d'uvre Hot hors-d'euvre.) hors-d'uvre.) CAKE.GTEAU cArreu- - The Theword ghteau is wordgteau issa said tocome comefrom fromthe CAKE. id to the gastean, WhlCh word gasteau, whichitself itselfderives derives from from the theold gastel, oldtenn word termgastel, delicatefood food that quickly deteriorates thatquickly deteriorates(gter (gdter - - to tospoil). spoil). aadelicate generic tenu The generic gdteau or term gteau or cake cake designates designates ail The alltypes typesof of pastry and andcakes cakes in in the thestrict strictsense senseof of the theterm, term, while while the pastry the word entremets entremets or (U.S. or sweet sweet (U dessert) applies appliesmore moreespeciword .S. dessert) especially to to sweet preparations such sweet preparations such as ascrea creams, fritters, charlottes, ally ms, fritters, charlottes. tarts, flans pies, pudd flans and and pies, puddings, souffies and and all all kinds kinds of tarts, ings, souffls of ices, ices. which belong belong to to the the do domain of the the cook cook rather rather than than that which main of that of of the confectioner. confectioner. the Cakes are are made made from from any any of of eight eight doughs doughs in in French French Cakes confectionery: ftake pastry (feuilletage), flake pastry (feuilletage), short pastry (pte shortpastry confectionery: QtAte brisde), sweet pastry (pte sweet pastry sucrde), brioche, brioche, savarin, saiarin, baba, brise), baba, Qtdte sucre), gdnoise, chou pastry. chou pastry. gnoise, To these these may may be added a be added a large large number number of of mixtures mixtures of To of additional ingredients ingredients such such as as almond paste, various almond paste, various kinds additional kinds of sugar sugar icing, icing, fondant, fondant, French French pastry pastry cream (crime cream (crme of pdtissiire), frangipane cream cream and and other other creams, praline (q.v.), (q.v.), creams, praline pt issire), frangipane etc. etc. In France, France, as as weil well as as in in many many other other countries, countries, there ln there are are symbolic cakes cakes which, in in sorne some cases, cases, have have been been being symbolic being made made for centuries, centuries, and and are are eaten eaten on on certain feast feast days. days. One for One such such is the the Twelfth-Night Twelfth-Night cake, which symbolises symbolises the great feast is feast of of the Epiphany. Epiphany. the

fresh.

fresh.

commonly used used in in Normandy for - Name CAILLETOT Name commonly Normandy for young turbot. young turbot.

CAILLETOT

Ancient gateaux or centre-pieces, after Car6me : Turkish pavilion Ruins of a rotunda Large fountain ; Ruins of a rotunda; Ancien! gteaux or centre-pieces, after Carme: Turkish pavilion; ; Large fountain

t76 176

CAKE CAKE

(Iarozsse) Large Largecakes: cakes: Dijon; Dijon;Madasgar; Madasgar; St StJames James (Larousse)

In In France, France, from from the the very very earliest earliest times, times, a a large large number number of of provinces provinces have have produced produced pastries pastries for for which which they they are are noted. noted. Thus Thus Artois Artois had had gdteaux gteaux razis, razis, and and Bourbonnais Bourbonnais the the ancient ancient tartes tartes de de fromage fromage broyi, broy, de de crime crme et et de de moyeux moyeux d'oeulz. d'oeulz. Flat-cakes Flat-cakes are are still still made made in in Normandy, Normandy, Picardy, Picard y, Poitou Poitou and and in in some sorne provinces provinces of of the the south south of of France' France. They They are are called variously variously fouaces, fouaces, fouaches, fouaches, fouies foues or or fouyasses, fouyasses, according according to to the the district. (See (See HEARTH-CAKE') HEARTH-CAKE.) Until Until the the seventeenth seventeenth century century it it was was usual usual at at Whitsuntide Whitsuntide and oublies in Paris Paris to throw down nieules nieules and oublies (wafers), (wafers), local local Parisian of the the worshippers worshippers Pari sian confections, confections, upon the the heads heads of gathered gathered under the vaulted vaulted roofs of of the the Cathedral Cathedral of of NotreNotreDame. At the same same time blazing blazing wicks were were showered showered on on the the congregation. congregation. Ahong Among the many pastries pastries which were in high high favour favour from from cities centuries in the twelfth to the fifteenth in Paris Paris and and other other cities fifteenth centuries ichaudis of which which two variants, variants, the flageols fiageols and and the the were: were; chauds of Paris; by the people people of Paris; and, and gobets, were were especially prized by of strips of (q.v.), small tartlets covered with tartlets covered darioles (q.v.), darioles with narrow narrow strips with one filled made, one were made, darioles were of darioles pastry. Two Two kinds kinds of pastry. filled with Talemouses cream. Talemouses with frangipane cream. the other with iream cheese, the cream (cheese turnovers) were turnovers) were as talmouses (cheese which are known today as f/ot (See HORS-D'UVRES, HORS-D'(EUVRES, Hot appreciated. (See much appreciated. also much also hors-d'euvre.) hors-d'uvre.) today; made today; pastry still still made (q.v.\ is hard pastry is a a dry, dry, hard Casse-museru (q.v.) Casse-museau in a a are mentioned mentioned in gilteaux feuillets and gteaux choux and ratons, petits choux ratons, feuilletds are proves 1311, which which proves in 1311, of Amiens in Bishop of Robert, Bishop by Robert, charter by charter seventeenth the seventeenth before the in France before known in was known flakypastry that flaky that pastry was process of making of making the process claim, the writers daim, some writers when, sorne century, century, when, painter. the pain Gel6e, the Claude Gele, by Claude invented by pastry was was invented flaky ter. flaky pastry into organised into pastry-cooks, organised centuries, pastry-cooks, following centuries, tn the ihe following In also but also above' but listed above, pastries listed the pastries produced not not only only the guilds, produced guilds, joyeux, brioches, bridaneaux, gdteaux joyeux, brioches, bridaneaux, gAteaux bavueuls, bavueuls, gteaux gteaux biscuits, matzipan biscuits, kinds, marzipan various kinds, of various pains d'pices, waffies of d ipices, waffies pains

royaleswhich tarts tarts and and flans flans garnished garnished in in various various ways;pAtes ways; ptes royales which dough cakes, were of meringue; meringue; almond almond cakes, cakes, dough cakes, were a a kind kind of Milan, cracknels and gdteaux de Beauce; Beauce; gdteaux gteaux de de Milan, cracknels and gteaux de flamiches. fiamiches. (See (See FESTIVE FESTIVE COOKERY') COOKERY.)
some of the CAKES CAKES AND AND SMALL SMALL CAKES CAKES - We We list list below below sorne of the cakes. Recipes for many -of small gdteaux and known best best known gteaux and smaU cakes. Recipes for many of in alphabetical order them them will will be be found found in in this this section section or or in alphabetical order throughout throughout the the book. book. Angel cake , , Amandines, Alizar , Almond Alcazar,, Allumettes Allumettes, Almond cake cake, Amandines, Angel cake, cake. Apple Apple cake. - -Baba, Biscuits h la Biscuits de Baba, BAton Bton de de Jacob, Jacob, Biscuits de Bruxelles, Bruxelles, Biscuits la Boule de Bisanits de cailler, cuiller, Biscuits de Savoie, Savoie, Bouchies Bouches it l'abricot, l'abricot, Boule de Briochin' neige, Brestois, Breton, neige, Brestois, Breton, Brioche, Brioche, Brioche Brioche Goubaud, Goubaud, Briochin. la crime, Conversation, Chausson aux pommes, pommes, Cornets Cornets d la crme, Conversation, Chausson aux Croquembouche. Croquembouche. Diion, Duchesse, Dampfnudetn, Dampfnudeln, Darioles, Darioles, Dartois, Dartois, Dijon, Duchesse, Dumpling. Dumpling. Eclairs. EchaudCs. clairs. chauds, abricots, Flan aux abricots aux abricots, amandes, Flan aux amandes, Feuilleti au)( Feuillet Flan aux Flan aux abricots cerises , Flm aux fruits , Flan meringud , aux cerises, FIan aux d l'alsacienne, I' alsacienne , Flan Flan auxfruits, Flan meringu, aux poires, Flan pAches, Flan aux Flan mirabelles, Flan aux pches, Flan aux aux mirabelles, Flan aux Flan poires, Flan pommes grilli, Flan aux prunes' Flan aux pommes, aux aux pommes, Flan aux pommes grill, Flan aux prunes. Ghteat de citrouille, h l'orange, I'orange, Gteau Galette Gatette feuillete, feuitletie, Galette de citrouille, Galette Ginoise au chocolat, d l'abricot, I'abricot, Gnoise Ginoise voyage, Gnoise di voyage, Gdteau de Gteau au chocolat, Goren' Gimblette, normande, d la Ginoise moka, an moka, Gnoise la normande, Gimblette, GorenGinoise au Gnoise Gougire. flot, fiot, Gougre. Inngues de chat. Kouglof, Langues Koulitsche, Kouglof, Kiche, Koulitsche, Jalousie, Kiche, Jalousie, de chat. cake, Madeleines, Mal' Madeira cake, Madasgar, Madeira Macaroons, Madasgar, Macaroons, Madeleines, Malgac he, M anc hons, M andarine, M anqui, M arignan, M9s c o t 1e-' gache, Manchons, Mandarine, Manqu, Marignan, Mascotte, M erveilles, MilM eringues, Merveilles, M azarin, Meringues, M assillon, Mazarin, M assepain, Massillon, Massepain, MilRouen, Moka, de Mirliton Millasous, anais, Miltefeuilles, anais, Millefeuilles, Millasous, Mirliton de Rouen, Moka, Montmorency, Monte-Cristo, Montmorency, Moques, Monte-Cristo, Mokatine, Moques, Mokatine, Mousseline. Mousseline.

(Desmeuzes.Phol. I'arousse) Phot. cakes Small Small cakes (Desmeuzes. Larousse)

Buns (Claire)

Buns (C/aire)

r77 177

CAKE CAKE
Nantais, N apolitain, Nemour s, Ndr oli, Norvdgien, N ougat, Nantais, Napoli/ain, Nemours, Nroli, Norvgien, Nougat, Nouga/ine. Oublies, Pain anglais, Pain d I'anis, pain azyme, pain Oublies, Pain anglais, Pain l'anis, Pain azyme, Pain complet, Pain de mais, Pain de Ia Mecque, palais de dames, complet, Pain de mas, Pain de la Mecque, Palais de dames, Palmiers, Paneton, Parisien, Pastis dt Biarn. pavi au Palmiers, Paneton, Parisien, Pastis du Barn, Pav au chocolat, Pavd aux fruits, Pavd au moka, pavi aux noisettes, chocolat, Pav aux fruits, Pav au moka, Pav aux noise lies, Pithiviers, Plum cake, Pogne de Romans, pont-neuf, poupelin, Pithiviers, P/um cake, Pogne de Romans, Pont-neuf, Poupelin, Profiteroles, Punch cake, Puits d'amour. Profiteroles, Punch cake, Puits d'amour. quar r ts, Quic he, Quille t. Quat e Quatre-quarts, Quiche, Quille/. Rabo t t e, Rame quin, Re lig ieus e, Riche lieu, Rigodon. Rabotte, Ramequin, Religieuse, Richelieu, Rigodon.
Nougatine.

ils;

:::

b5;i,

GermanEaster Eastercake (Ostertorte) cake(Ostertorte) Gennan

ofsugar sugarsurrounded surrounded by by44small smallchocolate chocolate eggs, of eggs,each inits eachin its
Giteau SaintH onor6 ( Lar ous sel Gteau Saint-Honor (Larousse)

Sablis, Sacristains, Sacristains, Saint-Honor, Saint-Honori, Saint-James, Saint-James. SaintSaintSabls, Michel, Savarin, Savarin, Savarin Savarin d la crime, Savarin la crme, Savarin aux aux cerises, cerises, Michel, Schaleth d lajuive, ln juive, Shortbread, Solilime, Souvarov, Spdculos, Sehaleth Shor/bread, Solilme, Souvarov, Spculos, Strizel, St Strudel, Sultane. ru dei, Sultane. Strizel, Tarte alsacienne, alsacienne, Tarte Tarte auxfruits aux fruits h l'allemande, I'allemande, Tarte Tarte aux aux Tarte d l'anglaise, I'anglaise, Tarte Tarte aux aux fruits, Tarte des des demoiselles fruits demoiselles fruits, Tarte fruits Tatin, Tarte Tarte au au riz, riz, Tarte Tarte d la la rhubarbe, rhubarbe, Tartelelles, Tartelettes, Tt-fai/, T6t-fait, Ta/in, Trois-frires. Trois-frres. Vacherin, Victoria Victoria cake. cake. Vacherin, Almond cake cake See ALMONO. ALMOND. - See Almond (American pastry) Angel cake (American pastry) Whisk 8 8 egg egg whites whites stiffty, stiffiy, - Whisk Angel cake add I teaspoon teaspoon cream cream of of tartar tartar dissolved dissolved in in a a little little water, water. add 1 and275 (10 OZ., oz., lf cups) sugar. sugar. and 275 g. g. (10 li cups) Fold 100 g. oz., 1 I cup) cup) sifted sifted flour flour and and a a few few drops g. (a (4 OZ., Fold in in 100 vanilla or l] vanilla-flavoured sugar. vanilla essence essence or 1t teaspoons teaspoons vanilla-flavoured Whisk a large, unbuttered angel cake cike Whisk lightly, lightly, and and pour pour into into a large, unbuttered pan pan with with a a centre centre tube. tube. Bake .,325oF., Gas Mark moderate oven oyen (160'C (160C., 325F., Gas Mark 3) 3) for for Bake in in a a moderate 45 cake rack 45 minutes minutes to to I 1 hour. hour. Invert Invert the the tin tin on on a a cake rack and and cool taking before out of of the the mould. mould. before taking the the cake cake out Apple Apple cake cake - See See APPLE. APPLE. Christmas yule yule log. log. n0crm BCHE DE DE NoEL NOL - Symbolic Symbolic cake sold by _ Christmas French French confectioners confectioners at at Christmas Christmas time. time. It It is is made made of Genoese Genoese cake cake (see (see GENOESE) GENOESE) spread spread with with various various creams, crea ms, usually a log butter cream. cream. It It is is rolled rolled into into the the shape of ofa log and usually a a butter decorated decorated by by icing icing the the cake cake with with lengthwise lengthwise strips strips of of cliocochocolate butter cream cream to to represent represent the the bark bark ofthe of the log. log. late or or coffee coffee butter At another symbolic symbolic cake cake is is made made in in France. France. It At Christmas Christmas another is is shaped shaped like like a a wooden wood en shoe, shoe, made made of of nougat nougat and and decorated decora ted with withpetits petitsfozrs fours (q.v.). (q.v.). Easter Easter cakg cake, German German (Ostertorte) (Ostertorte) - Make Make a a sponge sponge cake cake of 125 125 g.(4+ g. (4! oz., OZ., generous generous cup) cup) sifted sifted flour, flour, 100 100 g. g. dough of 99ugtr (4 (4 oz.,l OZ., t cup) cup) sugar, sugar, 5 5 eggs eggs (yolks (yolks and and whites whites separated) separated) and and 100 100g. g. (4 (4 oz., OZ., * 1 cup) cup) butter. butter. Bake Gas Mark Mark Bakein inaamoderately moderately hot hot oven oyen (190.C., (190C., 375.F., 375F., Gas 5) 5) for for 40 40 to to 45 45 minutes. minutes. Turn Turn the the cake cake out out of of the the mould. mould, allow allow to to cool, cool, and and cut eut it it across across into into halves. halves. Spread Spread one one half half with with coffee-flavoured coffee-flavoured butter butter cream. cream. Place Place the the halves halves totogether ICING). gether and and ice ice the the cake cake with with Fondant Fondant icing icing (see (see ICING). Decorate Oecorate with with a a border border of of butter butter cream cream piped piped through through aa forcing-bag of forcing-bagand andwith withchocolate chocolateeggs, eggs,each eachsitting sittingon onaaneit nestof the thesame samecream. cream.In Inthe thecentre centreof ofthe thecake cakeplace placeaachick chick made made
178 178

nest of of butter buttercream. crearn. nest pArNDE Fruit loaf loaf or (Alsation pastry). orBireweck Bireweck (AJsation pastry). PAIN Fruit DEFRUITS FRUrrs - Ingredients. 1 (2{ lb., I kg. kg. (2-!lb., 99cups) cups)sieved Ingredients. (IOZ., sieved Hour, flour, 25 g.(1 25g. oz., I cake) yeast, 500 cake) yeast, (generous 1I lb.) g. (generous 500 g. 1 lb.)fresh freshor pears, ordried driedpears, g. (9 (9 oz.) 250 g. fresh or oz.) fresh or dried dried apples, (9oz.) 250 apples,250 g.(9 250 g. prunes, oz.) prunes, (9 oz.) g. (9 250 g. oz.\ dried dried figs, g.(9 (9oz.) figs,250 250g. peaches ,125 250 (4LOZ., g.(4! oz.) peaches, 125g. oz, (U.S. pitted) cup) stoned stoned (U.S. pitred) dates, (9 OZ., i* cup) dates, 250 g.(9 250 g. oz., It l] cups) cups) (4 OZ., seedless raisins, raisins, 100 g. (4 100 g. oz., tJ cup) seedless cup)chopped choppedcitron citroncandied candied peel, 50 (2 OZ., g. (2 50 g. oz., t cup) chopped peel, chopped angelica, (4 OZ., angelica, 100 g. (4 l@ g. oz., * cup) cup) whole whole almonds, g. (4 (4 OZ., almonds, 100 100 g. ~ oz., if,cup) cup) hazelnuts, hazelnuts, 100 g. 3 cup) 100g. (4 OZ., I cup) oz., 1 cup) shelled shelled walnuts, (4 walnuts, 50 g. (2 50 g. oz., t{ cup) cup) each each of of e OZ., lemon and and orange orange rind julienne strips, rind eut lemon cut into into julienne g. (2 (2 oz.) strips, 50 50 g. oz.) star anise, pinch of anise, a a pinch star of spices, spices,and (3 tableand 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) kirsch. kirsch. spoons) Method, Cook Cook the pears, apples, the pears, Method. prunes, peaches apples, prunes, peaches and and figs figs in water, w_ater, keeping keeping them in them rather rather firm. firm. Make Make the the dough, dough, using using yeast and flour and and yeast juice in the Hour and moistening with with the the juice in which wtrlctr the ttre fruit was was cooked. cooked. Leave the fruit the dough dough to rise for to rise for 2 2 hours. hours. well-drained fruit to Add the weU-drained to the the risen risen dough dough and and mix mix weIl. well. Add the the raisins, raisins, almonds, hazelnuts, Add hazelnuts, walnuts, walnuts, dates, dates. citron citron candied peel, peel, angelica, angelica, orange candied orange and and lemon lemon peel, peel, anise anise and and spices. Moisten with with kirsch and blend weIl. well. Divide the paste paste into 200-g. Oivide (7-oz.) pieces, shape 200-9. (7-oz.) shape them them into into small loaves, brush with water and and bake bake in in a a slow slbw oyen oven for for lf, li hours. p.llN pound Genoa cake. PAIN DE GNES GBNES (lg OZ., g. (18 500 g. oz., 31 3] cups) cups) - Pound 500 blanched almonds to a Il a powder and and add add 325 g. (12 (12 OZ., 325 g. oz.,-ll cups) sugar. Stir with a wooden spoon and and add add 5 5 eggs eggs one one by by one. Stir the mixture for for l0 10 minutes and (4 oz., and add add 100 g. (4 lA0 g. oz-., s_cant seant cup) cornflour, a little little powdered vanilla, 1 tablespoon I ta6lespoon Curaao and and 150 g. g. (5 (5 oz., OZ., l0 10 tablespoons) melted butter, p-u1aea9 melted butter, lifting batter to aerate aerate it. Pour the the mixture into into buttered buttered lifting the the batter in a a moderate moderate oyen. cake tins tins lined Iined with with buttered buttered paper. paper. Bake Bake in cake oven. Genoa cake cake will will keep well weil for for 5 5 or 6 6 days. days. Genoa Another method method is is to pound pound 375 OZ., generous generous 1| 1~ Another 375 g. (13 oz, cupd) cups) fine fine sugar sugar in in a a mortar mortar with 6 eggs eggs and and 2 2 drops drops bittei bitter almond is frothy, frothy, add add 65 65 [.1Ztor., g. (2~ OZ., almond essence. essence. When When the the mixture mixture is l0 10tablespoons) tablespoons) sieved sieved flour flour and and 125 125 g. g. ($o2., (~oz., 9 9 tablespoons) tablespoons) Pour the the mixture mixture into into lined lined and and melted butter. butter. Blend Blend well. weil. Pour melted buttered cake cake tins tins and and bake bake in in a a moderate moderate oven. oyen. buttered It kg. kg. (3* (3-!- lb., lb., 13 13 KuJich @ussian (Russian Easter Easter cake) cake) - Place Place l] Kulich cups) flour flour in in a a warm wann bowl bowl and and make make a a well weil in in the the centre. centre. cups) Into this this pour pour 25 25 g. g. (l (1 oz.,l OZ., 1cake) cake) yeast yeast dissolved dissolved in in a a little little Into wann milk milk and and mixed mixed with with a a little Ettle flour flour to to make make a a leaven. leaven. wann Work the the yeast yeast mixture mixture into into the the flour, flour, cover coyer the the bowl bowl and and Work stand the the dough dough to to rise rise in in a a warm wann place place for for lf, li hours. hours. stand

CAKE CAKE
Add Add 500 500 g. g. (18 (18 oz., OZ., 2l 2J cups) cups) half-melted half-melted butter, butter, l0 10 eggs, 250 250g. g. (9 (9 oz., oz., generous generouscup) cup) fine fine sugar sugar and and a a pinch pinch ofsalt. of salt. Beat the it is is no no longer longer sticky stickyand and comes cornes away away cleanly cleanly themixture mixture until untl it
from from the the bowl. bowl. Gradually Gradually work work in in I1ke. kg. QIIb.,9 (2l lb., 9 cups) cups) flour, flour, beating beating the the dough dough lightly lightly until \lntil it it is is thoroughly thoroughly mixed. mixed. Add Add 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz., OZ., l] I! cups) cups) each each of of cleaned c1eaned sultanas, sultanas, currants currants and and raisins. raisins. Leave Leave the the dough dough to to rise fisc again again in in a a wann warm place. place. When When well weIl risen, risen, turn turn it it onto onto a a floured floured table, table, keeping a a small small piece piece to to decorate of the dough into into a a large large decorate the tbe cake. cake. Make Make the the rest rest of well-buttered baking tin. ball in alarge, a bail and and place place in Roll il into long, long, wide wide Roll out out the the reserved dough dough and cut eut it strips. strips. Twist Twist the the strips and and decorate decorate the the cake cake with with them. them. Allow ta rise rise again again for for 30 30 minutes. minutes. Brush Brush with with a a Allow the the cake cake to mixture of egg egg yolk yolk and and sugar, sugar, sprinkle sprinkle chopped chopped almonds almonds on on mixture of top, in a a hot hot oven. aven. top, and and bake bake in It Jt is is customary cuslOmary in in Russia Russia to to ice icc and and decorate decorate the the top top of of the [he cake. cake. Maids Maids of of honou. honour. DEMoIsELLES DEMOISELLES D'HoNNEURn'HONNEUR - The The recipe recipe for for these in England, was was these cakes, cakes, which which enjoyed enjoyed a great great reputation reputaton in for for a long long time time kept kept secret. History relates relates that Anne Anne Boleyn, then of honour honour at al the English Court, first firsl made made these then a maid of pleasing King cakes in the hope hope of ofp!easing King Henry Henry VIII Vlll who who was fond cakes in of of his his food. King King Henry, Henry, finding finding them excellent, excellent, called them 'maids of honour'. honour', which has been their name ever since. since. 'maids of The to have have been been The secret secret recipe for for the the cakes cakes was was said said to of bought bought for f,1000. flOOO. Maids of honour were were the the speciality of Richmond Rjchmond (Surrey), where a confectioner confeclioner claimed to to have the secret recipe, and to ta make make the only true maids of honour, honour, country. all parts of the country. which he sent out daily to ail of light putr pastry, with a filling tans oflight filling The cakes are little tarts and lemon. made of egg, ground almonds and paste for is LA MEcQLJE Mecca MecC1l cakes. PAINS PA1NS DE DE LA MECQUE for these these is - The paste as Chou paste the same as poste (see CHOU). shape of in the the sh the paste Force the Force paste through a pastry-bag in ape of egg, metal baking sheet. Brush with beaten egg, little eggs onto a a me!al eggs ooto hot aven. oven. a hot and bake in a sprinkle with granulated sugar and prepared as follows: as follows: is prepared cake whch which tS Phur cake Phml - English cake and (18 oz., until creamy, creamy, and g. (18 2| cups) butter butter until oz., 21 500 g. Soften 500 Soften (18 oz., sugar. g. (18 oz., 2{ cups) sugar. Add 500 g. whisk until it turns white. Add 8 or or 9 9 one, 8 add, one one by one. and add, minutes, and for a a few few minutes, Whisk again again for Whisk (9 oz., l| cups) g. (9 oz., I! 250 g. Add 250 all the the time. time. Add whisking ail eggs, whisking eggs, (7 oz., g. (7 (lemon and 200 g. oz., orange), 20{) and orange), chopped candied candied peel (lemon chopped (5 oz., g. (5 I cup) cup) best best oz., 1 raisins, 150 g. stoned (U.S. pitted) raisins, lf cups) sloned li (5 oz" g. (5 I cup) cup) currants. currants. oz., 1 and 150 150 g. sultanas and sultanas lj mixed with with 1 tea(18 oz., sifted flour flour mixed cups) sfted o2.,4| Add 500 500 g. (18 4 ~ cups) t teaAdd and t dl. rind of21emons of 2 lemons aod the grated rind spoons baking powder; the spoons I dl. (3 tablespoons, rum. scant { cup) rum. tablespoons, scan! (3 4 cm. cm. paper, so it extends extends 4 so Ihat that il a cake-tin cake-tin with greased paper, Line a Lne into the the mixture into (l] inches) Pour the the mixture of the the tin. tin. Pour above the inches) above the rim of (I-!Bake in in a a fill il it over over two-thirds. two-thirds. Bake to fiH not 10 taking care care not tin, taking tin, hour. I hour. after 1 heat after reducing heat hours, reducing for J3 104 to 4 hours, moderate aven oven for moderate sponge' Savoy spnngewrth Savoy mould with charlotte mould Fill aa charlotte Punch cake cake PlHlcb - Fil! turn the cake. cake, tum (see SPONGE Bake the CAKES). Bake SPONGE CAKES). cake mixture mixture (see cake days. for two two days. and leave leave for out, and out, thickness' of equal equal thickness, slices of horizontal sUces three horizontal cake into into thrce Cut the cake Clltthe jam. Decoratc Decorate with with apricot jam. with apricot and caver cover with in rum rum and them in soak soak them in the the oyen. oven. finish in and finish meringue and meringue (4 OZ., g. (4 cup) oz., ,1* cup) 100 g. punch cake. llil.4;ix 100 cake. Mix the punch Meringue for Meringue for the (3 tablespoons, cup) scant J dl. (3 tablespoons, scant finely sieved apricot jam, sieved apricot I cup) finely * dl. iam, 1(a oz., fine sugar. g. (4 cup) fine sugar. oz., i100 g. rum, 1 I tablespoon Curaao, Curagao, 100 rum, I cup) whites. egg whiles. Fold in in 6 6 stiffiy beaten egg Fold pArN D'PICE for be used used for should be Rye Rour flour should o'6plce -- Rye Spice cake. cake. PAfN is not not It is used' lt flour can can be be used. wheat flour loaf, but ordinary wheat but ordinary spicod Joaf, cake. quality honey this cake. for this honey for necessary 10 to use use best best qua!ity necessary nearly 10 to boiling point (18oz., honey nearly 1] cups) g. (18 cups) honey oz., I! Heat 500 500 g. Heat 4! cups) sieved Put 500 500 g. ((18 scum. Put and remove remove the the scum. and 18 oz, 4-!pour the honey honey into a well in the bowl, pour flour into into aa bowl, bread flour bread
179 179

It may centre centre and and stir. stiLl! maybe benecessary necessary to ta add add more mOTeflour flour to tomake make a Form the the paste into into a a ball, bail, wrap wrap in in a a cloth c10th and and a firm finn paste. paste. Form leave add 12 12 g.e g. (t oz.) oz.) powdered powdered yeast yeast leave to ta prove. prove. After After I1hour add (dried is used used without without moistening) moistening) and and (dried chemical chemical yeast yeast which which is knead knead vigorously. vigorously. (18 g. 4| sieved oz., cups) Another Another method method is is to to mix mix 500 500 g. (18 OZ., cups) sieved bread 500 g. g, (18 (18 oz., OZ., l] lJ cups) cups) honey, honey, leave to to stand, stand. brcad flour flour and and 500

'

and 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz', oz., I t and knead knead as as described described above, a bove. adding adding 100 cup) cup) fine fine sugar, sugar, 12 12 g.Q g. (1 oz.) oz.) dried dried yeast, yeasl, used uscd as as indicated indicated (2 g. cup) powder, 50 oz., above, l~ teaspoons baking baking powder, 50 g. (2 oz., I above, l| tableblanched, 25 g. g. (l (! oz.,ll OZ., blanched, dried and and chopped chopped almonds, almonds, 25 spoons) spoons) each each of of chopped chopped candied candied orange orange and and lemon lemon peel. peel. g. The be added addcd to ta this th is dough: d ough: l0 lOg. The following following can can also also be $ oz,') oz.) aniseed, anisced, a a pinch pinch of of cinnamon, cinnamon, a a pinch of of powdered powdered cloves, and I tablespoon and! tablespoon grated gratcd or or chopped lemon lemon or or orange orange peel. peel. Roll to the the desired desired thickness lhickness and and put put it il on on Roll out out either either dough dough to a a buttered buttered baking baking sheet, sheet, or or into lnto baking tins. tins. Bake Bake in in a a modermoderate As soon soon as as the the cake cake is s cooked brush brush the the surface surface ate oven. oyen. As with with milk milk sweetened swectened with wilh sugar sugar (it (it should should be be like like a a thick thick syrup) few seconds seconds in in the the oven. oyen. The The milk milk can can syrup) and and leave leave for for a a few (see be be replaced replaced by by sugar syrup, cooked cooked to to a a thread thread (see SUGAR). SUGAR). Twelfth-Night Twelftb-Night cakes. cArrnux DEs DES RoE ROIS - The The custom custom of of baking baking Twelfth-Night Twelfth-Night cakes cakes is is still still observed observed and and the the celecelebration bration that that takes takes place place in in most mos! French French homes homes when when the the Twelfth-Night cake is eaten, eaten, is is a a relic relie of of the the pagan feast fcast cake is called the Basilinda. The s given to to the the called the The name name phoebe which whch is bean or symbolic symbolic favour favour baked baked in the the cake, cake, is is believed to to be be a a bean or word iphibe corruption corruption of of the the word phbe 'a 'a son son of of the the house' house' given given by by pointed the table, under who, hidden child the the Romans Romans to to the t he ch ild who, hidden under the table, poin ted piece which which held guest chosen out the chosen to out the guest to receive receive the the piece held the the phoebe. phnebe. vigorously was vigorously ceremonial was In the seventeenth century the Jn the seventeenth the ceremonial attention Saint-Germain, but attacked by the priests anacked by the priests of Saint-Germain, but attention this to which which this to the excesses ta much earlier earlier 10 drawn much had the excesses had been been drawn quotes a from a a a passage from Pasquier quotes custom could could give rise. Pasquier custom the to the Neargorgus, which refers ta by Thomas Neargorgus, manuscript by manuscript festival: festival: lot and clect a king by by lot elect a dine Ihen, then, and to dine come IOgether together to .'Many Many come he himself. Next, he ministers for for himseJf. king chooses chooses ministers This king vote. This or vote. or celebrations days, the the celebrations for several several days, lasts for feast which which lasts opens the the feast opens purses Idt, left, and and the the empty purses are only only empty there are continuing until until there contnuing paid. come ta to be be paid. creditors come creditors follow their their example. They, haste to to follow make haste 'Their sons sons then then make 'Their with banquets either with sumptuous banquets and hold hold sumptuous a king king and too, eJecl elect a tao, learning parents' expense, thereby learning expense, thereby or at at ther their parents' stolen money, money, or stolen time. and the the same same time. at one larceny at one and luxury and and larceny luxury head of the family, the good the head 'Finally, on of the same day, the on the the same 'Finally, means forth, according to his means master, causes causes ro to be be brought forth, master, has been guests, a in which has been a cake cake in his guesls, and the number of of his the number and He cuts cuts the the as a a token. token. He must serve serve as coin which which must hidden a a silver silver coin hidden his family are members members of of his pieces as as there there are as many many pieces cake into into as cake piece. At time, he At the the same same lime, gives each his piece. present and one his and gives each one and for the Virgin and one for the Virgin infant Jesus, Jesus, one for the the infant one for keeps back back one gives these to the the these ta he then names he then gives whose names in whose Magi, in one for the the Magi, one piece containing silver the silver containing the poor. Whosoever the piece receives the Whosoever receives poor. joy.' for joy.' shout for all the the guests shout and aU coin is recognised as king, and of the the " distribution of attending the distribution Although the ceremonial attending to what it it used used lO from what rather different different l'rom and rather is now now shorter shorter and cake is cake queenchosen at the the chosen at king or or queen that Ihe the king demands that custom still still demands be, custom be, symbolic give aadinner-party at whch which the thesymbolic dinner-party al feastshould in tum turn give should in [east isserved. served. cake is cake In Paris Paris and and France. Jn of France. The cake varies in different regions of (q.v.)' In galette (q.v,), pastry galelle In the ile-de-France the cake is a flaky pastry yeast dough, similar to to dough, similal from yeast is made made from the cake cake is the south south the the like aacrown. crown. shaped like and shaped dough, and brioche dough, brioche (18 OZ., 4I oz., 41 500 g. (18 Place 500 cake. Place Twelfth-Night cake. BordeauxTwelfth-Night Bordeaux yeast and and oz.) yeast with 20 20g. table with on the the table ringon inaa ring cups) Rour flour in e.G oz.) cups)

CAKE RACK RACK CAKE

teaspoons salt salt in in the themiddle. middle.Knead Kneadthe dough, adding thedough, adding li teaspoons wholeeggs, eggs, one grated rind one by byone, one,grated rind of of1I lemon, lemon,200 g. 2Ng. 88 whole (7 oz., scant cup) sugar, and 200 g.(7 oz.,scant cup) softened (7 oz., scant cup) sugar, and 200 g. (7 oz., scant cup) softened butter. Mix Mix these theseingredients ingredients thoroughly. thoroughly. Leave Leave the thedough, dough, butter. whichshould should be limp, to belimp, rise in torise inaawarm place overnight. warm place overnight. which Next day, day, knock knock down down the thedough doughas asfor Brioche dough dough(see Next for Brioche (see DOUGH), divide parts each divide into intoequal equal parts each shaped shapedinto into aacrown, crown, DOUGH), place on on buttered paperand buttered paper andleave leaveto to rise rise in in aa warm warm cupcupplace board. Leave Leave the crowns to the crowns to cool cool and and brush with beaten brush with beaten egg. egg. board. Decorate with with slices slices of of citron citron and and crystallised crystallised sugar, sugar, and and Decorate in aa moderate bake in moderate oyen. oven. bake Another method method is is to yeastdough to make make aa yeast g. dough of of 250 250 g. Another (9 oz., o2.,2| cups) sieved sieved flour flour and and 20 20 g. yeast. Add oz.) yeast. Add e. (i G oz.) (9 2i cups) water, to to make make the dough limp, limp, and the dougb and leave leave it it to to rise rise in in aawarrn warm water, place. place. Make a a weil well in in the (2+ lb., the centre centre of I kg. of 1 kg. (2i 1b.,9 cups) sieved sieved Make 9 cups) flour, and and add add 8 8 whole whole eggs and a pinch of eggs and a pinch of salt. salt. Make Make aa lukelukeflour, wann syrup (9 oz., syrup with with 250 g. (9 250 g. generous cup) oz., generous cup) sugar, sugar, the the warm grated rinds rinds of of 2 2 lemons lemons and and 2 (|-pint, 1l|2 oranges, oranges, a a 3-dl. 3-dl. (t-pint, grated tcup) mixture mixture of of orange-flower orange-flower water, water, water water and and rum, rum, and and stir stir cup) gently. Add Add to to the other ingredients ingredients in the other in the gradually well, mix the weil, mix gradually gently. with the the flour flour and and when when weil well blended blended add yeast dough. add the the yeast dough. with Mix thoroughly. thoroughly. Mix Place the the dough dough in in a a fioured floured bowl, bowf leaving leaving it it in in a a warm warm Place plaoe to to rise. rise. Knock Knock down down the the dough dough and and then then shape shape it it into into a a place crown on on a a floured floured table. Place the table. Place the crown crown on on a a baking baking sheet sheet crown covered with paper and with buttered buttered paper and decorate decorate the top with pieces the top with pieces covered of citron. citron. Leave Leave to to rise. rise. Brush Brush the yolk and the cake cake with with egg egg yolk and of a a (150"C., bake in in a a cool cool oyen oven (l50 300oF., Gas Mark Mark 2) 2) for for 1 1{ bake C., 300 F., Gas t hours. hours. Limoux Twelfth-Night Twelfth-Night cake. cake. This This cake, cake, also also in in the the shape shape of of Limoux a crown, crown, is is made made from from dough dough similar similar to to that that used used for for the the a Bordeaux Twelfth-Night Twelfth-Night cake, cake, but but is is richly richly decorated decorated with with Bordeaux candied citron. citron. candied Wedding cake. GTEAU cArnlu DE DE NOCE Nocts In England England the the centrecentreWedding cake. - In piece of of the wedding reception is the the wedding wedding cake. cake. This This piece the wedding reception is cake, made made in 2 or or 3 3 tiers, tiers, is is a a symbol symbol rather rather than a a delicacy; cake, in 2 a down from from one century century to to the the next. a tradition tradition handed handed down next. The cake must as each guest is wedding guest given a slice and is given cake must be be large large as each wedding pieces are sent sent in absent relations and boxes to and pieces are in decorated decorated boxes to absent friends. friends. The (211b.,4+ kg. (2i cups) butter, 1 I kg. The ingredients ingredients are: are: I 1 kg. lb., 4t cups) (2* (18 oz., g. (18 ground al4| cups) oz., 4t cups) ground (2t lb., lb., 4| 4t cups) cups) sugar, sugar, 5CI 500 g. monds g. (18 3tcups) monds or or pounded pounded almonds, almonds, 500 g. (18 oz., 3t cups) chopped candied candied peel, peel, 5@ 500 g. g. (18 (18 oz., oz .. 3l 3t cups) cu ps) each each of of stoned stoned (U.S. (U. S. pitted) lf kg. (2* l cups) pitted) raisins, raisins, sultanas sultanas and and currants, currants, It (2i lb., lb., l II flour flour sieved sieved with with 2 2 teaspoons teaspoons baking baking powder, powder, 16 16 to to 18 whole 15 g.(:* whole eggs, eggs, according according to to size, size, 15 g. (t o2.,2 oz., 2 tablespoons) allspice, allspice, I 1 dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant * t cup) cup) rum. rum. Line Line the bottom bottom and and sides sides of of three three graduated graduated round round cake tins with buttered buttered paper paper and and fill fil! with with the the mixture. mixture. Bake Bake in in a cool oven oyen (150'C., (l50 a C., 300'F., 300 a F., Gas Gas Mark Mark 2). 2). Test Test with with a a skewer after 3 3 hours, hours, and and then then at at half-hourly half-hourly intervals intervals until untiJ cooked. The The cake cake should should be be made made several severa! days days before before decorating decorating it, it, to to give give the the mixture mixture time time to to settle. settle. Trim Trim each each tier tier so so that that it it is is flat and round, round, then then spread spread with with apricot apricot jam jam and cover coYer flat and completely completely with with a a layer layer of of almond almond paste, paste, * l cm. cm. (* (i inch) inch) thick. thick. y'.f,tar 24 Level Levcl the the tops tops of of the the tiers tiers with with a a rolling-pin. rolling-pin. After 24 hours, hours, ice ice each each tier, tier, covering covering all al! parts parts which which will will be be visible visible when when they they are are put put on on top top of of one one another. another. Arrange Arrange the the tiers tiers on on a a low low stand. stand. Decorate Decorate the the cake cake with with motifs motifs made made by by forcing forcing Royal Royal icing icing (see (see ICING) lCING) through through a a piping-bag, piping-bag, and and place place an an ornamental omamental motif motif or or spray spray of of flowers flowers on on the the top top tier. tier.

lj

CALABASH GOURD GOURD or BOTTLEGOURD. orBOTTLE GOURD.CALEBASSE CALABASH cALEBASsEFruitof ofthe thecalabash calabashtree treeof whichseveral ofwhich severalspecies speciesare Fruit known. areknown. Onespecies species has haslong long leaves leavesand greenshell andaahard hardgreen shellwith withacid One acid whitepulp pulpinside, inside, which which is ismade madeinto intoaasyrup syrupin white intropical tropical Americaand andthe theWest WestIndies. Indies.The gourdsare Thegourds aremade America madeinto into Calabash pipes pipes (imported (imported from fromSouth South Africa), Africa), drinking Calabash drinking vesselsand andother otherarticles. articles. vessels

Calappa Calappa

Calamary Calamary

(Squid). CALMAR CALAMARY (Squid). cALMAR -- Common Common name name for for certain certain varieties of of cephalopoda, which varieties which have have elongated elongated bodies, bodies, and and arrns or or tentacles with arrns with suckers suckers on on the the tips. tips. They They are are found found mainly in in mid-ocean depths depths or mainly or far far out out to to sea, sea, but but come come to to near the the coasts. coasts. spawn near Like cuttlefish, cuttlefish, calamary Like calamary have have a a bag bag situated situated near near the the heart which which contains contains a heart a dark dark inky inky liquid tiquid used painting used in in painting the name of sepia. under the This mollusc is considered considered a a great delicacy delicacy in tbe the MediterMediterranean ranean region. region. Calamaries in (in their in su su tinta tinta (in their ink) ink) is is a a Spanish speciali ty. speciality. Stuffd calamary (squid) (squid) Stuffed I la marseillaise. marseillalse. CALMAR clrum FARCI rmcr A LA MARSETLLATSE MARSEILLAISE calamaries, rem ove the remove the black ink - Take 4 calamaries, bag, bag, the the cranial cranial cartilage and and the the tentacles. Wash the the body sacs and place them flat Hat on a a clotho cloth. Fry a a finely chopped onion onion in a a few few tablespoons oil, oil, add the finely chopped tentacles and 2 2 or 3 chopped chopped tomatoes. Season Season and and fry fry together. Soak Soak a piece of of French French bread in milk, squeeze it it out and and add add it it to to the the pan pan with 2 2 garlic garlic cloyes cloves chopped chopped with with parsley. parsley. Blend Blend well, weil, moisten moi sten with witb 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) hot water, add 2 or 3 egg yolks and and remove from the the heat. heat. Fill Fill the the calamaries calamaries three-quarters full with the the resulting resulting forcemeat, forcemeat, which which should be fairly thick. Sew them up and put them them one one by by one into a pan with some sorne oil. up separately a a finely finely chopped onion and add a bay bay leaf leaf Fry separately and a a crushed crushed clove clove of of garlic. garlic. Blend Blend in I 1 tablespoon tablespoon flour and and and moisten moisten with with I 1 glass glass each each of of white white wine and hot hot water. SeaSeason son with with salt salt and and pepper pepper and and simmer for 15 15 minutes. minutes. Strain Strain this sauce sauce over over the the calamaries, calamaries, sprinkle with breadcrumbs breadcrumbs this and oil oil and and gently gently brown brown the the top. top. and
CALAPPA (Box (Box crab). crab). cALAppE CALAPPE (coe (cOQ or DE uBn) MER) CALAPPA which has has a a certain certain similarity similarity to to the the crab. crab. which
-

Shellfish Shellfish

CAXE CAKE RACK RACK or or TRAY. TRA Y. cRTLLEGRILLE - Flat Flat tray, tra y, made made from f rom wirewiremesh, mesh, on on which which cakes cakes are are put put to to cool cool when when they they are are taken taken from from the the oven. oyen.
180 180

CALEFACTION. c,c,rfracfloN CALFACTION - Action of warming. warming. CALEFACTION. - Action of Phenomenon whereby whereby a a drop drop of of water water hitting hitting a a very very hot hot Phenomenon

CAMEL CAMEL
surface takes takes on a a spheroid spheroid shape shape and and does does not not dissipate dissipate surfac immediately because because of of the the layer layer of of steam steam which which seals seals it off. immediately CALF. VEAU VEAU - See See also also VEAL. VEAL. CALF. Calves' brains - See See OFFAL OFF AL or or VARIETY V ARIETY MEATS. \1 EA TS. Calves'brainsCalf's crow. crow. FRAISE FRAISE DE DE vEAU VEAU - Membrane Membrane which which covers covers the the Calf's

intestines of of the the calf. calf. This This may may be be cooked cooked in in various various ways ways (see (see intestines
Cambaceres I 753- I E24) Cambacrs ((1753-1824)

OFFAL or or VARIETY VARIETY MEATS MEATS Calf's CalFs rnesentery-) mesentery.) OFFAL However the the crow crow is is to to be be prepared, prepared, it it must must first first be be cooked However in a a flour-and-water ftour-and-water stock, stock, as for Calf's CalFs head head (see below). below). in Calf's eors. ears. oREILLEs OREILLES DE DE vEAU VEAU - Calf's Calf's ears must must be well Calf's and blanched blanched before before use. use. (See OFFAL OFFAL or VARIVARIc1eaned and cleaned MEATS.) ETY MEATS.) Calf's feet. feet. ptnps PIEDS DE DE vEAU VEAU - Blanch and cook the feet feet in Calf's f1our-and-water stock, stock, llke like Calfs head. head. (See (See OFFAL OFF AL or a flour-and-water VARIETY MEATS.) MEATS.) cooked in in a flour-and-water ftour-and-water stock stock and served served d la vinaigrette. cooked (See (See OFFAL OFFAL or or VARIETY VARIETY MEATS.) MEATS.) Calf's heafr. heart. coEUR COEUR DE DE vEAU VEAU - All Ali the the recipes recipes for calf's which may be cooked kidneys are suitable for calf's heart, which (See OFFAL whole, braised, pot pot roasted roasted or or roasted. roasted. (See OFFAL or whole, VARIETY MEATS.) VARTETY Calf's kidneys kidneys - See OFFAL or VARIETY Calf's VARIETY MEATS. See OFFAL Calf's liver liverSee OFFAL OFFAL or VARIETY VARIETY MEATS. Calfns - See RIS DE DE vEAU VEAU - Considered Considered the most Calves' sweetbreads. RIS delicate of of the white offal meats. They can be cooked whole, sliced in mdaillons, midaillons, or in various other ways. (See OFFAL VARIETY MEATS.) or VARIETY udder. TTINE DE vEAU VEAU - Mostly in Jewish Mostly used used in rfril{s DE Calf's udder. taking the place of cookery, taking of bacon bacon fat. After being soaked in cold water and and blanched, the udder can be braised. head. rBrs TTE DE DE VEAU VEAU - Calf's head head is is blanched, Calf's head.

heat necessary necessary to g. of The large l'C. The large raise 1 I g. of water water by by 1C. heat to raise calorie a The calorie is used as a calorie is equal to to 1000 smalJ small calories. calories. The

CALORIE small calorie calorie is the amount of of CALORIE-- Unit of heat. The small

unit heat and and energy-producing unit in in expressing expressing the the heat energy-producing qualities of food. food. Food substances are the combination combination of results produced by the energy borrowed from solar radiations of radiations - the source of ail is effected which is all energy On decomposition, which energy on on earth. earth. On first by digestion and they and then by the transformations transformations which they undergo lost restore lost substances restore undergo in in our our organism, organism, these these substances energy which can be released. the heat heat released. be measured by by the Experiments have coto establish the cohave enabled scientists to establish the enabled scientists efficients fats and and released by albuminoids, fats of calories calories released by albuminoids, efficients of carbohydrates. Knowledge of a a food food Knowledge of of the the composition composition of product possible to product makes its value value in in energy, energy, makes it it possible to calculate calculate its measured in calories. These and figures are are only approximate and These figures only approximate average, not be drawn from from and too be drawn average, and too rigid rigid conclusions conclusions should should not them . them. Nutritional called diets called Nutritional experts have devised devised slimming slimming diets experts have 'Iow-calorie 'low-calorie diets' of content of the calorie calorie content on the based entirely entirelv on diets' based foods. foods. CAL V ADOS -- Famous apple brandy the Normandy Normandy from the Famous apple brandy from CALVADOS region name. region of of the the same same name. CAMBACRS who duc de) de) -- Cambacrs Cambac6rbs who CAMBACERDS (Jean-Jacques, lJean-Jacqueq duc was Paris in in 1824 1824 in 1753 1753 and and did di&J at at Paris was born born at at Montpellier Montpellier in was after the appointed by Bonaparte after the was the the second second consul by Bonaparte consul appointed coup . Marco in his his diary, diary, wrote in coup d'tat d'dtat Marco de de Saint-Hilaire Saint-Hilaire wrote 'Yesterday 'Yesterday 1 table of of honour of admitted to to the the table I had had the the honour of being being admitted Consul four the four out of of the and 1 I must must confess confess that that out Consul Cambacrs Cambac6rds and courses at least least sixteen sixteen or or courses - each which consisted consisted of of at each of of which eighteen quarter of I had had no no which 1 dishes, and and about about aa quarter of which eighteen dishes, chance apwould have have been been apchance of of tasting single one one would tasting - every every single proved proved by gastronomical memory. memory. of gastronomical Lucullus or or Apicius, Apicius, of by Lucullus Under made enormous in France France has has made enornous Under the the Republic, Republic, cuisine cuisine in steps proclaim it in the the worId.' world.' forward, and I proclaim it to to be be the the best best in steps forward, and 1

(himself compiling compiling the Cambac6rbs Cambacrs prepared his dinners (himself the menus) with meticulous care menus) with care and good taste. tas te. In In his Mimoires Mmoires 'During the Congress of Lun6ville, Bourienne tells us: us: 'During Congress of Lunville, the mail coaches coaches were that mail first consul, on first consul, on being being informed informed that delicacies for the table a lot of carrying a of goods, carrying goods, in particular particular delicacies gave an persons, gave an order order that of prominent persons, of that henceforward That postal nothing but but despatches. That carry nothing were to to carry services were postal services where 1 was into the salon, where came into the salon, Cambacerds came evening, Cambacrs evening, the alone first consul, who was already laughing at the al one with the fust "Well, what what can colleague. "Weil, his colleague. causd to to his embarrassment caused "I have come to you want have come to ask want at at this hour, Cambacrs Cambac6ris?" this hour, you 7" "1 you have given given the the in the the order you to make one one exception in you to friends with with post. How do you expect us us to make friends director of post. director give them You know know people if dishes? elegant d if we we can can't them elegant people 't give ishes 7 You great extent, yourself that, it is is at at one's one's table that that one a great extent, it that, to to a yourself great deal, him a great deal, called called him governs." The first laughed a first consul consul laughed governs." glutton and him on on the the shoulder shoulder and finished finished by by slapping slapping him a glutton a poor Cambacrs, and my poor Cambacerds, and "Console yourself, my and saying, saying, "Console and continue to carry will continue to carry mail coaches coaches will The mail angry. The don't be be angry. don't your Mayence p&tis, your your Strasbourg Mayence Strasbourg pts, trufled turkeys, your your trufHed your partridges.'" partridges."' and your hams and

CHEESE. de) See CHEESE. CAMBRAI (Boulette @oulette de) - See

or two two with one one or mammals with Large mammals CAMEL. cHAMEAU - Large CAMEL. CHAMEAU and the the as dromedaries dromedaries and are known known as former are The former humps. The humps. Israelites to eat to eat the Israelites forbade the Moses forbade latter as as bactriaos. bactrians. Moses latter edict, but but by this this edict, are not not bound bound by Arabs are The Arabs meat. The camel's meat. camel's young and meat is is tender. tender. and the the meat are young when they camels when they are only only eat eat camels regarded meat was was regarded camel's meat Gallien, camel's of Gallien, From the the time time of From it was was served served to to maintains that that it Aristophanes maintains favour. Aristophanes with with favour. praises it. it. and Aristotle Aristotle praises royalty, and royalty, parts most most are the the parts and the the stomach stomach are feet and The hump, hump, the the feet The milk is is excellent. excellent' Camel's miUc connoisseurs. Camel's appreciated by connoisseurs. appreciated by (Arab cooking). AU CHAMEAU cHAMEAU couscous AU cooking). COUSCOUS Camel couscotxt (Arab Carel couscous way, but substitute but substitute in the usual way, the usual couscous in - Prepare the couscous Prepare the (see COUSCOUS) COUSCOUS).. mutton (see young camel's for the the mutton meat for young camel's meat pimentc and TRANcHES aubergines TRANCHES and aubergines. with pimentos Camel Camel escalopes escdopes with iN butter SAUI6 in bUttCT ET AUBERGINES AI'BERGINES -_ Saut POIVRONS ET AUX POIvRONS DE DE CHAMEAU CHAMEAU AUX have which have from the sirloin, which the sirloin, meat taken taken from slices of camel camel meat slices of juice, sait, pepper and and spi spices. lemon juice, salt, pepper marinated in in oil, oil, lemon been ces. been marinated Put on on each each slice slice a dish. dish. Put on a and set set them them on Drain Drain the the slices slices and them in oil. Pour over over them oil. Pour aubergines sauted saut6ed in two rounds of of aubergines two rounds juices of added 2 2 sweet sweet have been been added meat to which have to which the of the the meat the juices in oil; oil; 1l| dl. cooked in and cooked peeled, cut pimentos, peeled, into strips strips and cut into pimentos, t dl. (} pi pint" l} cups) cups) tomato tomato ({ pint, pint, jdl. (t 3 dl. wine; 3 (t nt, li cup) white white wine; 3 cup) parsley. chopped parsley. garlic. Sprinkle with chopped pur6e; and Sprinkle with pure; little garlic. and aa little A LA r.l PIEDS DE DE CHAMEAU cHAMEAU la vinaigrette. vinaigrette. PIEDS Camel's feet t la Camel's feet young camel in and cook cook in camel and feet of of aa young VINAIGRETTE Soak the the feet vTNATcRETTE -- Soak (see asfor for Calf'sleet Calf's feet (see in the way as the same same way a white court-bouillon a white court-bouillon in with serve with and serve Drain, and MEATS). Drain, OFFAL OFFAL or or VARIETY VARIETY MEATS). (seeSAUCE). Vinaigrette SAUCE). Vinaigrette sauce sauce (see non -- Marinate Marinate DE CHAMEAU CHAMEAU RTI FILET DE Roast fillet. FILET Roast camel's camel's fiUet. juice, salt, pepper and It and spices. spices.It salt, pepper the lemon juice, fillet with with oil, oil, lemon the fiUet

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CAMEMBERT CAMEMBERT
can be larded with strips of larding bacon. Roast on a spit can be larded with strips of larding bacon. Roast on a spit inthe thesame sameway wayas asfor foraabeef beeffillet. fillet. in Roastcamel's camel's hump. hump.BOSSE BossrDE DECHAMEAU cHAMEAURTIE n6rrr- - Only Only Roast thehump hump of youngcamel ofaavery veryyoung preparedin camel is isprepared inthis thisway. way. the juice, salt, Marinate with with oil, oil,lemon lemon juice, pepperand salt,pepper andspices. spices. Marinate Roast in in the thesame sameway way as asfor for roast (See roast sirIoin sirloinof ofbeef. beef.(See Roast BEEF, Roast Roast sirloin.) sirloin.)Serve Servewith gravy, and with its itsown owngravy, andwaterwaterBEEF, cress. cresso paunchi la Camel's paunch la marocaine. marocaine. VENTRE vnNtnr DE nECHAMEA cHe,uEnu Camel's U A LA MARocArNe Marinate Z-kg.(4t-Ib.) (4+-lb.) piece piece of ofcamel's camel's LA MAROCAINE - - Marinate aa2-kg. paunch, trimmed and tied with string, in oil, lemon juice, paunch, trimmed and tied with string, in oil, lemon juice, spices and and vegetables. vegetables. Brown Brown in in oil oil in in an an earthenware earthenware spices put 22 casserole and remove when it it is is browned brownedail all over. over. Put casserole and remove when sliced onions onions into into the the casserole casserole and and cook cook slowly slowly until until soft. soft. sliced peeled, seeded Add 4 4 peeled, seeded and and chopped chopped tomatoes, peeled, tomatoes, 44 peeled, Add seeded and and diced diced sweet pimentos, 4 sweet pimentos, 4crushed crushed cloyes garlic, cloves of ofgarlic, seeded and the quartered core the quartered core of of aa root root of fennel. Season of fennel. Seasonwith with salt salt and pepper. Cook and pepper. Cook for for 15 15 minutes. minutes. and pour over Return the paunch the camel's camel's pa to the the casserole. casserole. Pour over Return unch to (f pint, it 4 pint, scant 4 dl. dl. Ct scant 2 2 cups) good stock. cups) good Add the stock. Add liquor the liquor it from the the marinade, marinade, and garni of and a bouquet garni a bouquet parsley, thyme, of parsley, thyme, from bay and and zest zest of of orange. orange. Simmer Simmer for for 2t 2! hours. hours. Add Add 250 250 g. g. bay (9 oz., generous cup) oz., generous cup) rice rice after after removing removing the gorit. the bouquet bouquet garni. (9 Cook for for a further 25 a further 25 minutes. minutes. Cook Take out out the the meat, meat, set set it it on on a a large large dish dish and and arrange arrange the the Take rice around around it. it. rice prepare with pilaf. PILAF Camel pilaf. rn,lr DE DE CHAMEAU cHAMEAU -- Prepare with lean lean Camel camel's meat meat taken taken from from the the filIet fillet or or sirloin sirloin in in the the same same camel's way as as Mutton pilaf (see (see PILAF). Mutton pilaf PILAF). way Ragoftt of of camel camel with with tomato tomato sauce. sauce. RAGOT nlco0r DE DE CHAMEAU cHAMEAU Ragot A LA re TOMATE roM,c,TE Prepare with with camel camel meat meat cut pieces and cut into into pieces and - Prepare juice, salt, marinated in in oil, oil, lemon lemon juice, pepper and salt, pepper and spices, spices, in in marinated the sa same way as as Ragot Ragofit of (see of mutton mutton with with LOmato tomato sauce sauce (see me way the MUTTON). MUTTON). Camel's ribs ribs with with rice. rice. CTES cdrrs DE DE CHAMEAU cHAMEAU AU AU RIZ Rrz -- Trim Trim Camel's the ribs and and marinate marinate them juice, salt, them in in oil, oil, lemon lemon juice, the camel's camel's ribs pepper and spices. spices. pepper and Saut6 in butter, lard or oil, oil, drain drain them them of of fat, fat, and garnish and garnish Saut in butter, lard or with PILAF). Serve Serve with with a a sauce sauce made with with with Rice Rice pilaf pilaf (see (see PILAF). the stock and and a a little little tablespoons stock the juices juices to to which which a a few few tablespoons tomato been added. added. tomato sauce sauce seasoned seasoned with with garlic garlic have have been All of veal veal or AU methods methods of of preparation preparation applying applying to to ribs ribs of pork pork can can be be applied applied to to camel's camel's ribs. ribs. Asa aslang slang inFrench expression Frenchthis thisword wordhas hastaken takenthe the As expression in (belly). samemeaning meaningas as bedon(belly). same bedon

CANADA See SeeINTERNATIONAL INTERNATIONAL COOKERY, COOKERY. CANADA Americancookery. cookery. American
CANAPES- -The primary meaning Theprimary meaningof ofthis thisword wordisisa aslice CANAPS slice ofcrustless crustlessbread, bread,cut cutin inrectangular rectangular shapes, shapes,the of thesize sizeand and thickness of ofwhich whichvaries variesdepending depending on onthe thenature natureof inthickness ofingredientsto puton tobe beput onthem. them. gredients Canapis,which whichare arealso alsocalled calledcrotons, cro0tons,are Canaps, aremade madeof of toastedor friedbread orfried bread and andcan caneither eitherbe bespread spreadwith toasted withvarious various mixtures or plain,depending leftplain, orleft dependingon onthe thenature natureof mixtures ofthe thedishes dishes for which whichthey theyare areto toserve serveas asan anaccompaniment. accompaniment. for Canapis, used used to accompany winged toaccompany game,are wingedgame, Canaps, arespread spread gratinforcemeat with dgratin orsorne someother other forcemeat. forcemeat. with forcemeat or (hors-d'cuwes) - - These Canapes (hors-d'uvres) These canaps aremade canaptisare Canaps madefrom from crustless bread, bread, home-made home-made bread bread or or brioche crustless briochedough, dough,and and garnished with are garnished with various various mixtures. mixtures. are Recipes for for this thistype typeof ofcanap, canapl,sorne Recipes someof ofwhich whichare arereferred referred toas as canaps canapds dla larusse, russe, will will be befound found in in the to thesection section entitled entitled HORS-D'(EUVRE, Cold Cold hors-d'uvre. hors-d euvre. HORS-D'UVRE, Canapes for for various various dishes dishes -- These These canaps Canaps canapis are arecut cut in inrecrectangles, and and browned. browned. They They are tangles, are mostly mostly described described as as crottons and and are are used used as as foundations foundations for crotons for fried fried or grilled or grilled escalopes, noisettes, noisettes, tournedos, tournedos, kidneys, escalopes, kidneys, etc. etc.

CAMEMBERT CAMEMBERT - See See CHEESE. CHEESE. CAMOMILE. CAMO MILE. cAMoMrLLr CAMOMILLE - Common Common name na me for a genus of
Roman Roman or or noble noble camomile camomi/e and and the the German German or or common
camomile. camomile. herbs whicL are herbs of of the the Compositae Compositae family, family, two two varieties varieties of ofwhich are the

Canary grass

Camomile Camomile oil, oil, obtained obtained by by gently gently simmering simmering 65 g. g. (Z+ (2t oz.) oz.) camomile camomile flower ftower heads heads in in 500 500 g. g. (18 (18 oz.) oz.) olive olive oil (cam(camphorated phorated or or not) not) for for 2 2 days days in in a a bain-marie, bain-marie, is is a a popular popular
remedy. remedy.

CAMPANULA. CAMPANULA. clrrareNuI-n CAMPANULE - Common Common field field plant. plant. It It has has
develops develops its its stalk. stalk.

and and is is used used as as food food by by the the local inhabitants. inhabitants. It It was was first introduced introduced into Spain; Spain; from from there there it was taken to the south France where it quickly quickly became became naturalised. naturalised. In In some sorne of France parts parts of France it is called canary canary grain, bird bird grain or spike spike
grain. grain. The other other species species of this this plant plant are are suitable suitable only only for for The forage. forage.

CANARY GRASS. GRASS. ALprsrE ALPISTE CANARY plants of Genus of of plants of the - Genus Graminaceae Graminaceae family, family, one species species of of which is is cultivated in the Canary Islands Islands for for its its seed seed which is rich rich in in edible which is edible starch

a and one one variety variety is is edible. edible. The The leaves leaves a purplish-violet purplish-violet flower ftower and

and and roots roots can can be be eaten eaten in in salad salad if if picked picked before before the the plant plant

CAMPEACHY CAMPEACHY WOOD WOOD (Logwood). (Logwood). Bors BOIS DE DE c.cup6crfi CAMPCHE Tree Tree which which grows grows in in Mexico, Mexico, chiefly chiefty around around Campeachy Campeachy Bay. Bay. Its Its wood, wood, if if boiled, boiled, produces produces colouring colouring mattei matter - red red on on contact contact with with acids, acids, turning turning violet violet on on contact contact with with alkali. alkali. Deprived Deprived of ofits itstoxic toxicproperties, properties, it it is is used used in in the the manufacture manufacture of ofliqueurs liqueurs and and for for improving improving the the colour colour of of wine. wine. CAN, DRlIM. BrDoN BIDON - Originally Originally a a wooden wood en jug jug of of 5 5 litres litres CA N, DRUM. (4] (41 quarts, quarts, 5| 5t quarts) quarts) capacity; capacity; nowadays nowadays a a metal metal concontainer tainer for for liquids. liquids.
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CANCALAISE (A ( LA) - Lenren Lenten garnish garnish composed of CANCALAISE oysters and and shrimps shrimps in in Normandy Normandy sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SA UCE). oysters CANCALE - Small Small fishing fishing port port situated situated near near the the English EngIish CANCALE Channel and and famous famous for for irc its 'blonde' 'blonde' plump plump oysters. oysters. Channel CANCOILLOTTE - See See CHEESE. CHEESE. CANCOILLOTTE CANDLEMAS - See See FESTM FESTIVE COOKERY. COOKERY. CANDLEMAS CANDY (Sugar). (Sugar). cANDr CANDI (sucne) (SUCRE) - Purified, crystallised CANDY - Purified, crystallised sugar. sugar.

CARAMEL CARAMEL
CANE. CANE. cANNE CANNE - Name Name commonly commonly given given to to different differem species species of of reeds. reeds. Sweet Sweel calamus calamlls was was used used in in the the past pasl as an infusion. inrusion. The TOOts of of giant gianl or bamboo reed reed are still used used in popular popular The roots medicine as an an infusion infusion against aga i nst lacteal lacteaJ disorders. disorders. Sugar Sugar rnedici ne as cane cane prodtces produces sugar. sugar. Cane juice. juice. vtsou VESOU - Liquid Liquid juice juice which which comes cornes out out of or sugar sugar Cane by the the mi[. mil!. It Tt is is also also called vin vin de canne canne (cane (cane cane crushed crushed by cane wine). wine). cooked cooked pour pour in in a a few few tablespoons tahlespoons concentrated concentrated chicken chicken stock to to which which Madeira Madeira has has been been added. added. Serve Serve with with a a ragottt ragol of of mushrooms mushrooms and and truffies truffles saut6ed sauted in in butter, butter, and and with with SuprAme sauce sauce (sre (see SAUCE) which which has has a a little little Madeira Madeira
.

added.

CANNELONI. clNunroNs CANNELONS cARNIs GARNIS - Pasta Pasta dish dish served served as as hors-d'uvre or a small entie. en/re. (See (Sec HORS-D'(EUVRE, HORS-D'UVRE, an hors-d'euvre an Hot Hal hors-d'euvre.) hors-d'uvre.)
CANNING PRESERVATION OF FOOD. FOOD. CANMNG - See PRESERVATION CANON - Old French French wine measure of of rt litre' litre. Slang Slang term CANON ror a unit of or liquid measure measure used usod by wine merchants. The for which means word word comes cornes from from canon canon which means a a glass glass in in masonic termi nology. terminology. - See CHEESE. CHEESE. CANTAL -

was

CANTALOUP - Melon, Melon, thus thus called called because originally it mainlygrownat mainly grown al Cantalupo, Cantalupo, near near Rome. Rome. (See (See MELON.)

cANTINE CANTEEN. CANTIl'.'E Camp or barrack shop for for liquor liquor CANTEEN. - Camp and provisions, provisions, etc. etc. Refreshment room at al work. work. cooking The name also applies to a small box hox containing cooking liquids. carrying liquids. a vessel vessel for carryng officers, and to a equipment for officers,

CAPONATA (Sicilian (Siciliall cookery) - Peel Peel and and dice dice 4 4 auberauhergines. and when when they they have have yielded yielded their Iheir gines. Sprinkle with with salt and juice, in oil. oil. . . fry them [hem in Shred 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz., { l cup) CUD) capers, capers, 100 100 g. g. (a (4 oz., OZ., f ~ cup) black hlack olives, olives, I heart heart blanched blanched celery, 4 4 desalted desalted anchovies into illtO julienne julienne (q.v.) (q.v.) strips. Fry a thinly sliced onion lightly in oil. aiL Add Add 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz., oz., lightly in ~. cup) sugar and and 2 2 dl. (* (t pint, pinL scant seant cup) tomato tomato pur6e. puree. Boil Boil * down until it after which which add add I 1 dl. dl. il takes takes on a dark colour, after (6 (6 tablespoons, scant scanl * i cup) vinegar. vinegar. Leave Leave to 10 simmer for ror a few minutes, minutes, season season generously, generously, add add some sorne chopped parsley and and mix mix with with the the aubergines aubergines and and the the other other ingredients. Decorate or spiny lobster, Jobster, tuna tuna (tunny) (tunny) Decorale the the top with slices of fish fish in in oil, oll, and poutargue poutargue (salted (sal!ed and and dried grey grey mullet mullet roes). roes). This This dish dish is is served served both hoth in in summer summer and and winter. win ter. It Il is is advisable to to prepare prepare it it well well in in advance advance to to allow allow all ail the the of the sweet-sour taste ingredients be permeated permeated by the the swect-sour taste of the Ingredients to be tomato sauce. sauce.
CAPSICUM CAPSiCUM - See PEPPER. CAPUA. cApouE CAPUA. CAPOUE - Italian town situated near near Naples, once renowned for along with ror its ilS wines wines which, which, along with other Olher 'delights', of Ca Cannae. corrupted soldiers after corru pted Hannibal's Hann bars soldiers a ner the the battle of nnae.
call the CAPUCIN CAPUCIN - Name by by which which French hunters ca)) the hare. !lare. (See HARE.) HARE.) (See glass or or flagon crystal bottle or crystal CARAFE Large-based glass boule or flagon - Large-based carafe. a small carafe. carafon is used is a tlsed for water or wine. A A carafon

The best China. The South China. CANTON capital of Soulh besl of CAI{TON - Former capital Cantonese. all Chinese ail Chnese cuisine is Cantonese.
Small MeditercAPEL cAPELAN, CAPEL CAPELIN or CAPLIN. CAPELAN, - Small as whiting (q.v.). fish which is is prepared prepared as ranean fish ranean a very short short stalk. CAPENDU red apple with a CAPEI\DU - Variety of red
caper bush, which grows of the capu cApns CAPER. CAPER. CPRE - Floral bud or Asia Minor, Turkey, Asia Algeria, Turkey, wild in south of France, Algeria, in the soulh wild as a pickled in a seasoning and used are pckled etc. Capers Capers are in vinegar and used as etc. (nonesuch) capers are the round (llonesllch) the round The best and condiment. condiment. The and best are Bouches-du-Rh6ne. of Var Var and and Bouches-du-Rhne. ddpartements of from the from the dpartements capers, and English capers, the English and smaller lhan than the They are are firmer They nrmer and with pickled nasturtium nasturtium seeds. not he be confused confused wilh should not

fish which resembles for a sea name sea nsh CAPITAINE CAPITAINE me for - French na (q.v.) and in the the same same manner. and is is cooked in carp (q.v.)
castrated has been cock which which has been castra Young cock cHApoN -- Young CA PON. CHAPON led CAPON. prepared are prepared Capons are its flavour. flavour. Capons improve its and fattene<.! fattened ta to improve and (see CHICKEN). CHICKEN). way as as chickens chickens (see in the same way in the same pArn (belle aurore). nN PTE cHAPoN EN pastry crust aurore). CHAPON crust (belle in a a pastry Capon Capon in a table, it out out on on a table, a capon. capon. Spread Spread it AURonr -- Done Bone a BELLE BELLE AURORE separately. stuffings separately. and spices. spices. Prepare two stuffings salt and season season with salt a chicken, chicken, lean minced meat meat or of a made wilh with the the minced is made The tirsl first is The with egg. and combined combined with pork, park pork fat fat and ham, seasoned, seasoned, and and ham, (prepared with d gratin forcemeat (prepared is made made with The second second is mushchopped mushand chopped marrow, truffies and livers, beef chicken livers, beef marrow, chicken Stuff the with egg. egg. Stuff and combined combined wth well seasoned woms), rooms), weil seasoned and layers. Marina Marinate in alterna alternate stuffings in capon with 1 two capon hese t wo stuffings te layers. le these pork, breast chicken, wings wings lean pork, of chicken, fillet, lean breast of veal tillet, strips of of veal thin thin slrips veal sweetsweetand blanched of hare, hare, and blanched veal of red red partridge, saddle saddle or of juice and lay and lay spices, and and spices, lemon juice oil, Cognac, lemon breads breads in oil. quartered lruffles. Roll truffies. Roll adding quartered the two two stuftings, stuffings, adding belween between the with string. string. in a a doth, cloth, secured secured with and tie tie in capon and stuffed capon the stulTed up the carrots of onion, onion, carrots a foundation foundation of on a Cook in in a a dauMre daubiire (q.v.) on flavoured and flavoured a very very lillie little stock stock and and ceJery celery moistened with a and capon and and Drain 45 minules. minutes. Dra the capon for 45 with Madeira Madeira wine, wine, for in the with it is is wrapped, lay quickly. Remove wrapped, lay cloth in in which which it Remove the the cloth cool quickly. cool join pastry, and and join pastry, coyer more pastry, cover wil.h with more fine pastry, on fine the the capon on can the sleam steam can hole in in the top so so chat that the Make a a hole the top the the edges. Make pastry leaves. Brush \Vith with egg egg leaves. Brush with pastry and decorate decorate witb escape, and pastry is is as the yolk and As saon the pastry moderate oyen. oven. As soon as in a a moderate and bake bake in
183 183

for colouring colouring (Bunt sugar) cookery for Used in CARAMEL (Burllt -- Used in cookery stocks, jellies, brown stocks, sauces, clear sou soups, stews, gravies, sa uces, brown jellies, clear ps, stews, in pastry-making. It is also used used in etc. Il is also paslry-making. etc. Keep small bottles with longitudinally-incised corks, in small boules wilh Keep in which allow allow the the caramel caramel to he be poured drop by drop. whicn (13 oz., g. (13 (confectionery). CARAMELS oz., Mous cln,utus MOUS Caramels (confectonery). Caramels - 375 g. (l| pints, Li pints) double lf pints) cream, double cream. litre (J loaf sugar. sugar, i 3 cups) loar J 1 piots, f, litre (4 OZ., glucose, (4 OZ., g. (4 g. (4 100 g. o2.,1 cup) glucose, finest butter, oz., ~ 100 g. butter, 100 1 cup) I cup) finesl I vanilla bean. 1 pan and glucose, and a pan and into a and vanilla vanilla into cream, glucose, Put the the sugar, sugar, cream, Put with a a wooden wooden all lhe time wilh a high stirring all the lime flame, stirring on a high tlame, boil on boil the sides sides of of the the scrape the As the to boil, boil, scrape the sugar sugar begins (0 spoon. As spoon. is hf'irl1nnlYH"l beginning with the to detach the the sugar which is basin wilh the spoon to reached the degree of has reached the degree crystallise. When the the sugar sugar has to crystallise. to pieces, in small small pieces, add the butter n as thread, thread, add the butter known as cooking known cooking is reached. reached. degree is all the until hall ball degree Cook until stirring ail the time. time. Cook slirring a slightly slightly pan from heat. Pour Pour the the sugar sugar omo onto a Remove the from heat. the pan Remove made with with oiled it in in a a frame frame made oiled marble slab, oiled marble slab, keeping il oiled (| inch) inch) thick. thick. mm. ( to 6 6 mm. The sugar layer should be be 5 to rulers. The rulers. as must on account be be scraped, scraped, as no account The bottom of the on no the pan must The go grilly. gritty. Remove Remove Ihe the to. go mixture to. cause the mixture would cause this would this cold, and and completely cold, leave the caramel until until completely vanilla bean, the caramel bean, leave vanlla into small cut into small squares. squares. eut AU CHOCOLAT cHocoLAT Mous AU cARAMEIS MOUS caramels CARAMELS Chocolate caramels. Chocolate (7 oz.) g. (7 chocolate tha! that slab chocolate 200 g. oz.') slab Add 200 recipe. Add Follow basic basic recipe. Fo\low (6 tablespoons, scant t I dl. in 1 dl. (6 tablespoons, seant melted n has been been previously melted I has cup) water, water. Clip) method Basic rnethod clrf -- Basic Mous AU AU CAF cARAMEIS MOUS Cofree caramels. caramels. CARAMEL'; Coffe(' (6 lablespoons, cup) scant t I dl. tablespoons, seant dl. (6 with 1 as above. above. Flavour Flavour with ] cup) as coffee essence. essence. triple strength strength coffee Iriple Aux AVELlNF.s AVELINES Mous AUX cARAMEIS MOUS hazelnuts. CARAMELS with hazelnuts. Caramels Wlh Caramels in a a (3 OZ., hazelnuts in cup) blanched blanched hazelnuts 75 g. (3 o2.,3 finely 75 Pound finely -. } cup) - Pound litre moisten with with -1I litre a bowl, Put into into a bowl, moisten mortar or or by machine. Put monar a cloth, cloth, through a milk and and serain strain through (scant pint, pint, 2f cups) cups) boiling boiling milk (seant

CARAMELISE CARAMELISE
pressing out out thoroughly. thoroughly. Add Addsugar sugar and and cream creamand proand propressing ceedas for basic as f.or basic recipe. recipe. ceed prsrACHEs Pistachio-nut caramels_ caramels. CARAMELS cARAMETs MOUS MousAUX AUx PISTACHES Pistachio-nut Follow basic (5 oz., basic method. method. Add g. (5 Add 150 150g. oz.,ll cups) blanched, blanched, Follow 1 cups) finely chopped chopped pistachio pistachio nuts. nuts. finely Vanilla Aavouring flavouring may may be be addcd added to all these to ail these different different Vanilla preparations. preparations.
This gas has This gas has no no liquid liquid state. state. When Whenil itis iscooled cooled or ordecomdecompressedand pressed projected onto and projected onto aacold cold surface, surface, it it solidifies solidifies in in the the fonn form of of snow snow which. which, in in turn. turn, vaporises vaporises without without becoming becoming aa liquid. liquid. This This property property has has been been successfully exploited in successfully exploited in the ihe refrigerating refrigerating industry, industry, where where blocks blocks of ofsolid solid carbon carbon dioxide dioxide (U.S. dry (U.S. dry ice) ice) are are used used instead instead of ice for for the of iee thecold cold storage of storage of perishable goods, perishable goods, for for air air conditioning, conditioning, etc. etc. The The substitution substitution of ice by of iee by solid solid carbon carbon dioxide dioxide results great saving results in in aa great saving of of space space and and completely completely avoids avoids humidity. humidity. Carbon Carbon dioxide dioxide may may cause cause asphyxia asphyxia when when it it is is found found in in large large concentration concentration in in confined confined spaces, in vals vats for spaces, in for harvested harvested grapes, etc. grapes, In small etc. In small doses, doses, however, however, il it is is a a stimulant. stimulant. CARCASE. CARCASE. CARCASSE cARcAssE -- Bone Bone strllcture structure of of an an animal. animal. ln In butcher's parlance, lhe butcher's parlance, the body a slaughtered body of of a slaughtered animal, animal, drawn drawn and and trimmed. trimmed.
pRES CARDAMINE CARDAMINE or LADY'S SMOCK. or LADY'S SMOCK. CRESSON cRESsoN OF..5 DEs PRs Common plant of Common plant of American American origin. origin. It It is is eaten as salad, eaten as and salad, and has as watercress, but is less strong. It conhas the the same same taste taste as watercress, but is less strong. It contains vitamins, and tains vitamins, and is is recommended recommended for for scorbutic scorbutic comcomplaints. plaints.

CARAMELISE. CARAMELISER crtRlrvr6rtsnn -- To To caramelise caramelise aa mould mould in in CARAMELlSE. which aa cream cream or or sorne some other poured for other mixture mixture is is to be poured to be for which cooking in in aa bain-marie (q.v.), coat bain-marie (q.v.), coat it it with with sugar sugar cooked cooked to to cooking caramel degree. degree. To To do do this, this, heat heat in pieces cf in the the mould mould several several pieccs of caramel sugar moistened moistened with with a a liule little water, water, until until the the sllgar sugar acquires acquires aa sugar brown colour (see SUGAR, colour (see SUGAR, Sugar Sugar boiling). The mould boiling). The mould brown should then then be be rotated rotated so so as as to to coat coat the interior completely the interior completely should with the the caramel. caramel. The The mou mould can also also be be caramelised caramelised by by with Id cao brushing on on sugar sugar cooked cooked to to caramel caramel degree. degree. Creams, Creams, brushing custards, and and other other mixtmes mixtures are are caramelised caramelised by by adding adding (0 to custards, them sorne some sugar sugar cooked cooked \0 caramel degree. to caramel degree. them

CARDAMOM. CARDAMOM. CARDAMOME c.cRonMoME -- Common Common name for for Elellaria Elettaria cardamomum, a pecies belonging as species belonging lO ginger family, whose to the ginger whose aroma"tic aromatic seeds are are used as as a a spiee. spice. CARDINAL ( (A LA) garnish composed Fish garnish composed of of coquilles coquilles - Fish cardinal, mushrooms and and slivers slivers of of trume. truffie. CARDINAL FISH. FISH. APOGON ApocoN One of varieties of of the the varieties of red red - One mullet, mullet, found found in in the (See MULLET.) the Mediterranean. Mediterranean. (See MULLET.) ln In U.S.A., redtish, which is U.S.A., redfish, which is found found from from New New Jersey Jersey to to Texas, is very similar. is similar. which are made made to turn tum red red by by plunging plunging them which them into into boiling boiling CARDINALISER tenn [or CARDINALISER French kitchen kitchen term for shellfish shellfish - French

Caraway

court-bouillon.
CARDOON. CARDON - Plant of the same genus as the arti CARDOON. cARDoN as the artichoke, of which the stems are eaten. The principal varieties are the tbe cardon cardon de de Tours. plein inerme inerme and while. are Tours, plein and improved white. cardon de de Tours Tours is is best, best, though though the the stems are are rather rather The cardon

CARAWAY. CARAWAY. cARVr CARVI - Umbelliferous Umbelliferous plant plant producing producing black seeds, seeds, whose whose odour odour and and taste taste is is halfway halrway between between that that of aniseed aniseed and and fennel. fenne!. Caraway Caraway seeds seeds are are used used to to flavour Aavour certain certain cheeses cheeses and and cakes. cakes. The The seeds, seeds, which which have have a a carminative minative effect, effect, were were included incJuded in in the the carminative carminative comcompounds pounds of of the the old old pharmacopoeia. pharmacopoeia. The The leaves, Jeaves, and and the the white white shoots shoots in in its its first tirst season, gathered gathered before before the the flower flower
stalks stalks have have begun begun to to shoot, have have a sharp sharp and and aromatic aromatic taste. taste. They They can can be be eaten eaten in in salads, salads, as as a a vegetable, vegetable, or .or in in soup. soup. They are are also also used used for for flavouring flavouring a a marinade. marinade.

CARBOHYDRATE. CARBOHYDRATE. cARBoNE. CARBONE. HyDRAfi HYDRATE nr OE MENT, MENT, ALIMENTATION. ALIMENTATION.

See See ALIALI-

CARBON CARBON DIOXIDE. DIOXIDE. cARBoNreuE CARBONIQUE - Gaseous Gase.ous body body formed formed by by the the union union of of one one atom at.om of of carbon carbon and and two two atoms atoms of of oxyoxygen. This gas gas is is found found in in the the atmosphere, atm.osphere, from from which which it it is is gen. This absorbed absorbed by by plants. plants. These, These, under un der the the influence influence of of solar solar radiation, radiation, combine combine it it with with hydrogen, hydrogen, obtaining obtaining complex complex hydrocarbon hydrocarbon and and fat fat syntheses. syntheses. Soluble Soluble in in cold cold water, water, it it forms forms carbonic carbonic acid acid which which is is found found in in many many mineral mineraI waters. waters. When When introduced introduced under under pressure pressure into into ordinary ordinary water water it it forms forms artificial artificial soda soda water. water. Carbon Carbon dioxide dioxide is is released released in in large large quantities quantities during during alcoholic alcoholic fermentation; fermentation; it it is is this this gas gas which which forms fonTIS froth froth on on sparkling sparkling wines, wines, beer, beer, cider, cider, etc. etc. Highly Highly compressed compressed carbon carbon dioxide diox.ide is is used llsed in in many many indusindustrial trial processes; processes; in in particular, particular, it il is is used used for for drawing drawing beer, beer,
'draught 'draught beer'. beer'.
184 184

spiny. Cardoons must always first be cooked in white vegetable vegetable Cardoons COl/rt-bouillon. They They are are then then simmered simmercd in in the the required court-bouillon. sauce. sauce. Cardoons, to /0 cook. cook. Discard Discard the hard hard stems and those those that that Cardoons, are wilted. wilted. Remove Remove the the tender tender stalks, one by one, and divide divide are them into into 8-cm. 8-crn. (3-inch) long long slices. slices. Remove Remove all ail the the stringy stringy them parts parts and and rub rub every every piece piece with with half half a a lemon, lemon, to to prevent prevent them them from l'rom turning tuming black. black. Put Put them them in in a a white white vegetable vegetable courtcour/which is is already already boiling. boiling. Add Add the the heart heart of of the the carcarbouillon which bouillon doon, carefully carefully trimmed. trimmed. doon, Boil, stirring stirring so so as as to to prevent prevent the Ihe cardoon cardoon sticking sticking to to the the Boil, bottom of of the the pan. pan. Put Put on on the the lid lid and and simmer simmer for for about about 2 2 bottom hours. hours. Cardooos in in bechamel bchamel sauce. sauce. cARDoNs CARDONS i, rl LA nfcnaMer BCHAMEL Cardoons Drain Drain and and dry dry the the cardoons cardoons after after they they have have been been cooked cooked as as above. above. Simmer Simmer in in butter, butter, with with the the lid lid on on the the pan, pan, for for about about 15 15 minutes. minutes. Add 2 2 dl. dl. ($ (!- pint, pint, scant sca nt cup) cup) Bdchamel Bchamel sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Simmer Smmer for for 5 5 minutes. minutes. Cardoons in in butter. butter, cARDoNs CARDONS AU AU BEURRE BEURRE - Drain Drain the the Cardoons cooked cookedcardoons cardoonsand andcook themin in butter butterfor for 20 20minutes, minutes, with with cook them the lid lid on on the the pan. pan. the Cardool1'i with with cream cre am I. I. canooNs CARDONS A re LA cnirrrn CRME - Simmer Cardoorn - Simmer the cooked cooked cardoons cardoons in in butter. butter. Moisten Moisten with with 2 2 dl. dl. (| (!- pint, pint, the scantcup) cup) Cream Creamsauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Simmer Si 111 merfor for 5 5minutes. minutes. scant Cardoom with with cream creant II. Il. clnooNs CARDONS A rA LA cniMs CRE;\ - Simmer Cardoore - Simmer the cooked cooked cardoons cardoons in in butter. butter. Remove Remove them, them, and and pour pour the 3 dl. dl. 6 (t pint, pint, l| l! cups) cups) fresh fresh cream cream into into the the pan. pan. Boil Boil down down 3

Sauerkrautwith "",lhbreast breaSIofveal ofwaland andaaselection seleclionofsausages ofsam.ages(poa. (Pou.phot. Phol. Nicolas) Nicolas) Sauerkraut

flts*

#ff""

"fi-?

CAREME CARME
by half. half. Take offthe off the heat, add 50 g. (2 oz., I cup) butter, and strain through a sieve onto the cardoons. FINEs HERBES Cardoors Cardoons aux fines herbes I.clnooNs 1. CARDONS Aux AUX FINES Moisten drain. Moisten the cooked cardoons in in butter. butter, and and drain. Cook the (see SAUCE). with sauce (see SAUCE). with a a few few tablespoons Fines Fines herbes sauce 10 minutes. Simmer for l0 AI-rx FINES FINEs HERBES Il.clnnoNs Cardoons aux fines herbes D. CARDONS AUX Cardoors in buller. butter. Add Add as for Cardoons in - Proceed Proceed in the same way way as chopped parsley and chervil. Drain the the cooked carFried cardoons. cARDoNs CARDONS FRIrs FRITS Fried - Drain juice marinate for 30 minutes in oil, lemon juice doons, dry, and marinate in smoking and chopped parsley. Dip in light batter and fry in with fine fine salt. season with hot oil. Drain again and season Trim Cardoons I la la grecque. LA grecque. CARDONS rl GRECQUE cnncQus cARDoNs i Cardoons - Trim juice, and and cook cook in in and slice s!ice the cardoons, rub with lemon juice, rub with and d for Artichokes a court-bouillon made in as for in the same way as a as described in that described in la grecque (see ARTICHOKE). Finish as recipe. They are hors-d'uuvre. recipe. are served as hors-d'uvre. Cardoons A L'ITALNNE L'ItALruNwe il l'italienne. cARDoNs I'italienne. CARDONS Cardoors - Proceed fines herbes. herbes. Moisten as for for Cardoons aux fines in the same way as with Italian !talian sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Cardoons gratines. CARDONS A L'ITALIENNE L'trlLtENNE cARDoNs i l'italienne I'italienne gratins. Cardoorc GRATINS in the as described the predescribed in cnlrwfs Prepare the the cardoons as - Prepare gratin dish. vious recipe. recipe. Put the cardoons in a gratin dish. Cover Cover them them in a pour with and pour with fine fine breadcrumbs and with the the sauce, sauce, sprinkle sprinkle with over sorne quickly in in the the oven. Brown guickly melted butter. Brown some melted Cardooll'> ProA LA rn LYONNAISE LvoFrNAIss i la cARDoNs la lyonnaise. CARDONS Cardoons - Proceed l'italienne. Moisten Moisten as for for Cardoons tt l'italienne. ceed in the same same way as with Lyonnaise Lyonnaise sauce (see SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). Cardoons with I. CARDONS r,c, MOELLE MoeLI-E Drain A LA cennoNs marrow 1. with marrow - Drain (q.v.). the in court-bouillon (g.v.). after cooking cooking them them in cardoons after the cardoons When cardoons on on top, of the hearts of lay sliced the cardoons When serving, serving, lay sliced hearts alternating and in salt salt water and alternating with s!ices slices of marrow poached in weB well drained. Cover sauce Maruow sauce a few few tablespoons with a tablespoons Marrow dish with Cover the the dish (see SAUCE). chopped parsley. SAUCE). Sprinkle with chopped Cardoons with marrow II. CARDONS uoBrr-e -- Arrange rl MOELLE cnnnors i LA the pyramid on with a dish, and cover cover them them with a pyramid on a dish, and in a the cardoons in sliced (see SAUCE) SAUCE) Marcow sauce sauce (see Po:ur Marrow cardoon hearts. hearts. Pour sliced cardoon over them parsley. chopped parsley. and sprinkle with chopped them and Arrange round the edge cro0tes hollowed-out crotes edge of of the dish, dish, hollowed-out of poached diced marrow. diced marrow. and filled with poached of bread, bread, buttered buttered and The hollowed-out pastry puff pastry by puff can be cro0tes can be replaced by hollowed-out crotes bouches. bouchies. The chopped and chopped have chopped shallot and marrow can chopped shallot The marrow can have parsley veal sauce parsley added, sauce or or added, combined with concentrated concentrated veal combined witb with glaze. meat glaze. with dissolved dissolved meat Cardoons I-e MILANAISE ruu.ntllsB -- Cook Cook cARDoNS A LA i la la milanaise. milanaise. CARDONS Cardoons cardoons (q.v.), drain and dry dry them. them. drain and cardoons in in court-bouillon court-bouillon (g.v.), Arrange layer in layers, layers, sprinkling each layer a fireproof fireproof dish dish in sprinkling each Arrange on on a with and grated Parmesan. melted butter with melted butter and with grated Sprinkle with Parmesan. Sprinkle brown oven, sprinkle sprinkle from the When removed removed from the oven, in the brown in the oven. oven. When with with brown brown butter. butter. CardooDS cooked MoRNAy -- Arrange Arrange cooked Mornay. CARDONS cARDoNs MORNAY Cardoons Mornay. and gratin dish. Cover with with in a a buttered dish. Cover and drained cardoons in buttered gratin drained cardoons Mornay grated Par(see SAUCE) Parand sprinkle with grated Mornay sauce sauce (see SAUCE) and sprinkle with mesan. and brown in aa very very little melted melted butter mesan. Pour Pour a a !ittle butter over over and brown in hot hot oven. oven. Cardoons (i blanc). AU PARPARblanc). CARDONS cARDoNS AU Parmesan ( with Parmesan Cardoors with MESAN (A BLANC) way as as for for Cardons Cardons nr.aNc) -- Proceed in the MEsAN ( Proceed in the same same way Mornay. Mornay. CardooDS (l brun). PARMESAN AU PARMESAN Parmesan ( brun). CARDONS cARDoNs AU with Parmesan Cardoons with ( (A BRUN) in aa and drained, drained, in nnuN) -- Arrange cardoons, cooked cooked and Arrange cardoons, buttered (see gratin dish; sauce (see with a Demi-glace sauce cover with a Demi-glace dish; cover buttered gratin SAUCE). in the with Parmesan Parmesan and and brown brown in the oven. oven. SAUCE). Sprinkle Sprinkle with Raw pi6montaise or Piemontese Raw cardoons cardoons A la la pimontaise or CardieHa Cardielle Piemontese (Italian pIfMoNTAIsE -- Clean A LA Clean cookery). CARDONS cAREoNs CRUS cRUs LA PIMONTAISE fltalian cookery). white fibres and and the skin on on th the white cardoons. cardoons. Remove Remove the the fibres the thin thin skin
185 l8s
Preserved fruits (Quintard. Pho t. N icolas)

place the fresh water. water. in fresh and place the cardoons cardoons in inside of of the stalks, and the stalks, inside (2 inches) inches) long. long. about 4 4 to 5 cm. cm. (2 to 5 Divide the stalks into pieces about arranged in an hors-d'uvre hors-d'euvre dish, dish, as they are, arranged in an Serve them them as they are, Serve with the the following sauce: sauce: with pan with (7 oz., in a g. (7 a pan with 2 2 dl. dl. (| cup) butter Put 200 200 g. scant cup) butter in oz., scant Put garlic and pint, scant and cloves of of garlic oil, 4 4 shredded shredded c10ves cup) olive olive oil, scant cup) pint, allow do not not allow fillets. Cook Cook slowly; slowly; do diced anchovy fillets. 6 desalted, diced garlic to to brown. the garlic peeled and and truffies, peeled white truffies, Add to sauce one one or or two two white to this this sauce Add Mix, and and serve hot. into thin serve hot. thin strips. sliced into strips. Mix, sliced pun6n DE cardoons as as pur6e. PURE DE CARDONS Prepare cardoons cARDoNs -- Prepare Cardoon pure. Cardoon heat the a fine fine sieve, sieve, heat the for Cardoons Cardoons in Pass through through a butter. Pass in bUller. for pur6e and and add add butter. pure potato pure puree can can be be added added to to its volume volume of of potato One-third of of its One-third pur6e. A Bichamel A few few tablespoons tablespoons thick thick Bchamel the cardoon cardoon pure. the (see SAUCE) added. sauce (see can also also be be added. SAUCE) can sauce cardoons in in a a DE CARDONS cARDoNs -- Cook Cook cardoons salad. sALADE DE Cardoon sai ad. SALADE (q.v.), drain and dry. dry. drain and court-bouillon court-bouillon (g.v.), pepper, and and pepper, and sprinkle vinegar, salt sprinkle salt and Season with with oil, oil, vinegar, Season parsley and and chervil. chervil. with chopped chopped parsley with cARDoNs AVEC AVEC SAUCES sAUcEs with various various sauces. sauces. CARDONS Cardoons Cardoors with with any any of and serve of and drain DIvERsEs -- Cook drain cardoons, cardoons, and serve with DIVERSES Cook and HunHollandaise, HunCream, Hollandaise, following sauces: Butter, Cream, the the following sauces: BUller, (see SAUCE). garian or or Mousseline Mousseline (see SAUCE).

ct

( I 78,S- I 833) Antonin Antonin Carme Carme (1784--1833)

CARME known as as AntonIn, Antonin, Car6me, known Marie-Antoine Carme, CARENIE - Marie-Antoine was 12 1784, and and died there on on 12 died there June 1784, was born born in in Paris Paris on on 8 8 June January 1833. January 1833. His much poor working had so so much man who who had His father father was was a a poor working man difficulty found it it simplest large family he found feeding his his large family that that he simplest in feeding difficulty in to farewell meal meal in in aa tavern little Antoine after aa farewell tavern abandon little Antoine after to abandon at piece of gate, leaving provided with advice: with this ofadvice: leaving him him provided this piece at the the city city gate, 'Go, callings. In this excellent callings. world there are excellent 'Go, little little one. one. In this world there are Leave lot and and we we must must die die of of languish; misery misery is is our our lot Leave us us to to languish; misery. it only wit to fine fortunes, fortunes, it only needs needs wit to misery. This This is is the of fine the time time of make perhaps you have. little one, and perhaps Go, little one, and make one, and wit wit you have. Go, one, and this its fine bouse house will will open open its or tomorrow some fine this evening evening or tomorrow sorne doors you.' given you.' you. Go God has has given Go with with what what Gd doors to to you. The knockedon door could have have knocked on the thedoor abandoned, could The boy, boy, thus thus abandoned, of led him humble Destiny led him to to aahumble or aa locksmith. carpenter or locksmith. Destiny of aa carpenter cookshop, gave him first lesson lesson in in him his his first of which which gave owner of the owner cookshop, the cooking. des has been called the the Cuisinier Cuisinier des who has been called The man man who cooking. The rois (the Cook King kings and and the theKing of kings Roi des cuisiniers (the Cook of rois et et le leRoi des cuisiniers of A meanest ofcookshops. cookshops. A in the the meanestof made his his dbut d6but in of cooks) cooks) made precarious ucky chance, was precarious beginning! chance, Carme Carmewas But, by by aa 1lucky beginning ! But, set gifts. magnificent gifts. he hd had magnificent for which which he in aa craft craft for work in set to to work The from such modest suchaamodest herose rose -- starting starting from with which which he The speed speed with beginning prodigy. beginning -- showed showed him to be be something something of ofaaprodigy. him to He kitchen help helil when He began in aa restaurant restaurant as asaa kitchen when work in began work he years old. great desire desire to his wise wise His great work, his he was was fifteen fifteen years old. His to work, intuition and resources resources of of his his art,and art, and his his intuition for for the secrets and the secrets serene person of revealed him as aa person of exceptional exceptional serehe authority authority revealed him as

CAREME
quality. Very soon he moved to the celebrated pdtissier quality. Bailly in rue Vivienne, who had as a client M. de Talleyrand, Bailly made gastronomy serve who made an an extremely c1ever clever diplomat who serve political ambitions. ambitions. On On leaving Congress of his leaving for for the his political the Congress advantages Vienna, where he was able to obtain important advantages XVIII, the gourfor France, Talleyrand Talleyrand declared to to Louis XVIII, well able to understand the words: 'Sire, met king, who was weil 1 I have more need of of casseroles than of of written instructions.' has left us an account of the lime he spent with us an time he Carme Car0me has 'At seventeen,' he writes, '1 'I was with M. Bailly: 'At the famous Bailly: a lively as his first tourtier. This good mas master Bailly as ter showed a intere:;t in me. He allowed me to leave work in order to draw interest in the print room. When 1 I had shown him that 1 a parI had a for his his art art he he confided to me the vocation for to me the task ticular vocation task of (Napoleon's) monties for Consul's (Napoleon's) creating for the creating piices montes the Consul's flourished in ill ustrious Avice in the ta ble. At that time, the illustrious table. time, the Avice tlourished his work served as ptisserie; his realm of of phtisserie; as my instruction. The I did ail knowledge of his procedures gave me courage and 1 all I could follow him, but not to imitate him.' could to to follow 1 In brief, Carme Car6me created created extraordinary decorative pieces ln pieces young pastrygeneral admiration. This young whichprovoked which provoked generaJ set pieces on the engravings engravings in great French cook based his set in his collections which he studied even in his tenderest tenderest years. He with architecture associated confectionery confectionery with wrote the associated architecture and and wrote 'The fine quoted by following sentence, quoted by Anatole France: 'The Anatole France: following painting, sculpture, poetry, in number, to wit: painting, arts are five five in to wit: music, architecture whose main branch is is confectionery.' confectionery.' - whose who kept de Lavalette who M. de Car6me entered entered the service of M. a a famous table and entertained the most distinguished men politics, Here Carme in poli sciences. Here Car0me army, the arts and and sciences. in tics, the the army, the arts delicacy, order worked, as he puts it, to further the union of delicacy, years with He next with Prince and next stayed twelve and economy! He twelve years Talleyrand whose table, was furnished furnished with he declared, was Talleyrand table, he wisdom. Later, he he became chief cook to grandeur and wisdom. to the in England. for two Here he Prince Regent Regent in England. Here he stayed stayed for two years. Prince he explained the Every Every morning he the properties of each indi'Car0me,' said his royal master dish to to the said his vidual dish royal mas ter the Prince. 'Carme, me with with a a surfeit food. 1 surfeit of food. will kill me have a one one day, day, 'you will I have you put before me. for everything you fancy me. The temptation is fancy for great.' 'YOUf 'Your Highness,'' replied Carme really too really Car6me (who too great.' in the preamble to his Cuisinier relates relates this to his this conversation in great concem parisien),'my concern is to stimulate your appetite by parisien), variety of my dishes. It is no concern of mine to curb it.' the variety returned to he returned The English depressed him, him, and and he The fogs depressed English fogs later King George IV, The Prince Prince Regent, Regent, later IV, asked France. The munificent terms which which would him to him to return, and and offered munificent prosperity, but present and and future future prosperity, Car6me but Carme assure assure his his present refused. Alexander, We find him at Saint Petersburg with the Czar Alexander, at the Court of Vienna, at the British Embassy in Paris, at in the AixJa-Chapelle, in the households of the the Congress Congress of Aix-la-Chapelle, and finally Bagration and Lord Stewart, Stewart, and finally with Princess Princess Bagration and Lord for seven seven years. Rothschild, where he he remained for Baron Baron de de Rothschild, with this the Rothschild finance, the Rothschild While While he he was was with this prince of finance, in Europe. M. de de Rothschild, Rothschild, table was considered the best in just bought bought the Ferridres estate, estate, offered offered him him the having just having the Ferrires chiteau, and opportunity opportunity of directing directing the the kitchens of the the chteau, retire there. Car6me could, if if he he wished, wished, retire added that hp h~ could, added that there. Carme by the was exhausted the unexhausted by declined declined this this offer. offer. His strength was remitting labours of thirty years. prayer,' he added, 'is not to end my days in a chteau ch0teau 'My prayer,' in Paris, and to a comprein humble lodgings in but to publish a but in present my profession at state of my at the present hensive survey of the state He fell gravely ill and was forced to to take to his bed. time.' He anxiety xi et y was his fear of not being able to complete His great an of his art. books which he regarded as essential to the future of 12 January 1833, fi ft y years, on 12 He died, still under under the age of of fifty bumt tlame of burnt out, out, according to to Laurent Tailhade, by the flame
186
of his ovens. His liis last moments of of life his genius and the fuel of were spent notes to spent in dictating notes to his daughter. were is a pro bit y and nobility. nobility. Money Money Carme's life is a model of probity Car6me's life was important. His His art art alone was meant to him. him. His meant nothing to very conception of culinary art is in tune with the grandeur was always Carme's It was Ideal to to present Car6me's ideal of his character. It which he he enriched the culinary marvels with which sumptuously sumptuously the Nothing could more meticulous of kings. Nothing could be be more the the tables tables of than the drawings he made for set pieces, aspics, galantines, baskets of fruit, etc., etc., or even simple borders. Nowadays, longer approve approve of we no of this no longer Nowadays, we this ostentatious manner of setting setting out cooked dishes. have banished manner We have out cooked dishes. We banished as much for the sake of hygiene as display from our tables, tables, as for reasons of expediency. But it must be remembered that worked for the great ones Carme Car6me worked enes of the earth and wanted art to as a a foil foil to . Neverhis art to 'serve to European diplomacy'. 'serve as considered that cooking must be decorative, theless, while he considered hygienic. He himself he was equally emphatic that it must be IIVI~'\"'''\''. was extremely was extremely sober and and considered that 'good cooking life of old societies'. societies'. should strengthen the life

91
ror

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c,lryttbrLo

t'vtry{rgrc ri C'^ Di-).

works of one of of Carme's Car&ne's works Title page of

He died poor, leaving only his his works, listed below: Matre d'htel franais. Comparisons of ancient and Maitre d'h6tel frangais. point of view view of the modern cookery considered from modem from the point plan and meptrs according to plan to the four the arrangement of menus and the

I* Le

CARP
Petersburg, London seasons, in St Petersburg, London and and Vienna, Vienna, 2 seasons, in Paris, Paris, St volumes. Le and practical Le Pdtissier Ptissier royal parisien. parisien. Elernentary practical Elementary and treatiseo 4l plates treatise, 2 2 volumes. volumes. Later edition, ornamented with 41 2 volumes. volumes. by the author, 2 Le Cuisinier Cuisinier parisien.l parisien. 1 volume. L'Art de de la cuisine au siicle.5 au dix-neuvidme dix-neuvimesic/e. 5 volumes. Le Phtissier 128 plates by Ptissier pittoresque. Ornamented with with 128 author. the author. works. He He preThere is is unusual erudition in Carme's Car6me's works. faced a treatise on formulation of modern menus menus with a faced his formulation great deal ancient required a ancient cookery which required a great deal of research, cookery which and which bears for his probears witness witness to a a devoted passion passion for fession. Le Pdtissier Ptissier royal parisien parisien is is filled filled with the sentiment Le with the which which earned earned his his immortality: irnmortality: indignation. Carme Carme was unable to view without without disgust that men totally ignorant of cookery books. the art of cooking published cookery The plan of this book is extremely methodica!. methodical. The subjects with which he deals are provisions provisions (with observations their freshness, quality and season), details on their details and organisathe larder, larder, major major and minor sauces, consomms, tion of the and minor sauces, consomm6s, tion hors-d' uvre, frying, frying, sweets, sweets, the the co Id buffet; buffet; in in short, hors-d'euvre, cold all short, aU relating to the direction of the kitchen. kitchen. Carme the details relating Carme vocabulary where he establishes the added to this treatise a vocabulary the names names of dishes which had had been travestied spelling of the by so many. Carme should be he regarded regarded as as the founder founder of 'la grande grande Car0me classic French French cookery. cookery. His His theoretical work, work, his cuisine', classic practical work pastry-maker, work as as an an inventor of sauces, as pastry-maker, sauces, as and author author of works works devoted to to cooking, designer and cooking, place a much higher higher level than than those who preceded him. him at a
CHOU cen,q,iss CARABE - Root of Arum CARIBBEAN CABBAGE. crrou CARIBBEAN esculentum. Used in Asia and Africa and also cultivated in esculentwn. of France. France. Prepared Prepared as as swedes swedes (q.v.). (q. v.). the south of

yolks. This in butter and and egg egg yolks. oranges, is also also found found in oranges, etc. etc. It is r6le in substance plays an important rle in the growth of animais, animals, into vitamins vitamins in in the is transformed and and is transformed into the animal animal organism. importance of fresh vegetables Its properties emphasise the the importance in the diet. in
CARP. fish. It It probably originated CARP. CARPE cARpE originated in in - Freshwater fish. in 1614 1614 and China, China, and and was was imported into into England England in and into Holland and about 1660. 1660. In In 1876 it was taken and Scandinavia about put in to in fish to U.S.A., put in Washington, fish ponds in Washington, D.C., and and in 1879 distributed 1879 tories. It distributed to to twenty-five twenty-five states and and terri territories. It is abundant abundant in in the West, and and sold sold in in the Middle West, the Middle the principal eastern cities of U.S.A. The carp has a ail mouth a sm mouth with four fleshy fleshy appendages small called barbules, barbules, but has no teeth. The river carp has brownish brownish golden-yellow scales scales on the back, flanks, greenishback, golden-yellow scales on its flanks, white scales scales on the stomach. The carp which inhabits inhabits lakes and ponds often has a muddy smell, and is darker in colour. colour. grow to Carp Carp can can grow The best enornous size. to an an enormous size. The best season season for eating them them is is between and the end of March. the end between November and

Mirror Mirror carp

CARINA. snfcHrr BRCHET - Breast bone of poultry and feathered feathered game. gently bent is supple when gently bent to the right game. If this bone is and to the left the bird is young and its flesh will be tender. tender.
CARLINE - Plant which grows in the cARLTNE The root of the mountains, particularly particularly in the the C6venrtes. Cvennes. The mountains, great carline thistle is sometimes sometimes used as a drug. The young taste, while the eaten in salads, have a nutty taste, flower-heads, eaten fenne!. roots have a flavour similar to that of fennel.

CARLINE THISTLE.

CARMINATIVE. clnuINArIF CARMINATIF - Medicament Medicament which which prepreCARMINATfVE. or provokes provokes the the expulsion, of gases vents the the formation, or vents contained in the intestines. The kind kind of carminative carminative which contained the old pharmacopoeia pharmacopoeia consisted consisted of grains grains of featured in the coriander, fennel and caraway in equal parts. aniseed, coriander,
CARMIN - Substance from cochineal, CARMINE. cARMIN Substance derived from a vivid scarlet red red colour, non-toxic, used used to to colour a of a

of food substances. variety of CARNATION. orrrrrr OEILLET - The The petals petais of of the carnation carnation flower CARNATION. ratafia. are used to make a syrup and a ratafia. CARN IV AL. cARNAvAL CARNAVAL - The period between between Epiphany Epiphany CARNIVAL. and Ash Ash Wednesday, given given up up to to all ail kinds kinds of rejoicing rejoicing and especially in the pleasures of the table.
CAROLINE CAROLINA. cnnor-mn rice. (See (See RICE.) RICE.) -

Commercial name for a type type of Commercial

CAROLINE - Name Name given given in in pastry-making pastry-making to to small CAROLIhIE clairs served as hors-d'euvre. hors-d'uvre. 6clairs CAROTENE. clnoriun CAROTNE - Yellow colouring matter, wideCAROTENE. spread in the vegetable kingdom. Besides carrots, it is also found in in spinach, spinach, lettuce, lettuce, peas, peas, pumpkins, pumpkins, cabbages, found 187 r87

which the chief are carp, of which There are are several species species of carp, the carp, leather Kollar carp, Bohemian and Bohemian the mirror carp, leather carp, carp, Kol/ar carp, and carp. The mirror carp called the queen of carp was called of carp in the old flesh. It is days on account of the great delicacy of its flesh. is more grows more hardy than than the common carp, more rapidly, rapidly, and carp, grows hardy the common attains a larger larger size. The Kollar Kollar carp carp is is seldom seldom found found in attains a size. The abundant in in Belgium, in Germany France, but is Belgium, in Germany and is abundant and in Hungary. Hungary. AU All these species species of carp are prepared in the same way as common carp. common are bred in in Sologne and in In France, carp are in the Dombes, from where they they are are transported transported alive from where alive to to Germany Germany in aquarium trucks trucks for for the the manufacture Hamburg carp manufacture of of Hamburg pt. They are also also bred on the shores of the Dead Sea. pdti. Carp i loalsacienne. J'a)sacienne. CARPE L'ALSACIENNE Carp cARpE A t'us.lcrENNE a carp - Fill a (see FORCEof medium medium size fish cream cream stuffing stuffing (see size with with a a fish MEA T, Fish forcemeat). Poach Poach in a MEAT, Fish forcemeat). a little white wine. Garnish with Sauerkraut garnish (see (see GARNISHES), nish with GARNISHES), and Sauerkrant garnish boiled-down liquor in which boiled potatoes. Serve Serve with the boiled-down Kneaded butter (see BUTTER) was cooked, thickened with Kneadedbutter it was BUTTER) and with a a little fresh butter added. Carp cooked in beer (German cookery). CARPE LA BIRE cARpE A r.l sdnr - Season of moderate size which can be stuffed or not, Season a carp of fish kettle on a foundation of tas te. Put it in a fish according to taste. (5 oz., 150 g. (5 Lf, cups) chopped onion lightly lightly fried in butter, oz., li (1 oz.) gingerbread cut into small together with 25 g. (1 together small squares, and 2 stalks finely finely sliced celery. celery. Add a bouquet gami. garni. fish; sufficient to almost coyer Pour light beer over the fish; cover it. Poach in a slow oyen. oven. When cooked, put the fish on a a long and garnish with the the roes, roes, which which have have been platter and been sliced and poached. Boil down one third the the liquor in which and down by one which

CARP

Leather Leather carp

Bohemian carp

sieve, add add a a little fresh butter, and the carp was cooked, sieve, little fresh the carp was serve with the fish. Carp au bleu. bleu. cmpr CARPE AU AU BLEU used for carp are are used Carp au - Small carp as for BIue this preparation. preparation. Proceed Proceed in the same way as Blue trout this. (see TROUT). (see.TROUT).

Carp Chambord Chambord Carp

cHAMBoRD Stutr a a carp with with a Carp Chambord. Chambord. CARPE clnpn CHAMBORD a - Stuff FORCEMEAT, Fish Jorcedelicate MEAT, Fish fish cream cream stuffing (see FORCE delicate fish forceremove a a strip of skin from both both meats). Sew Sew it up. up. Neatly remove the skin skin towards towards the the stomach stomach unsides fish leaving the sides of the the fish in the Lard the the skinned portion stuffing. Lard touched to to hold hold in the stuffing. with strips strips offat of fat bacon, or stud it with truffie slices. (Alternatively this part can be spread with a a thin layer of fish stuffing in crescent shapes.) cut in garnished with with slices slices of truffie cut a base Put the drainer of the the fish fish kettle on a base of on the the carp on the drainer mushroom peelherbs which, with with sorne sonre mushroom and vegetables vegetables which, herbs and garni in butter. a bouquet bouquet garni fried in ings, butter. Add a ings, have have been been lightly fried (q.v.). (see STOCK) wine (see Pour red wine STOCK) to with red some Fish Flslz stock stock with Pour on on sorne reach two-thirds a moderate of the fish. Braise in a two-thirds up the sides of (160'C., 325F., oyen Gas Mark Mark 3). 3). 325"F., Gas oven (I60C., glaze it, a Chambord Drain it, and and surround surround with with a Chambord fish, glaze Drain the the fish, (see GARNISHES) of garnish (see garnish the different parts of GARNISHES) arranging the groups. Put the Put a a little little Genevoise Genevoise sauce in separate groups. the garnish in (see SAUCE) in (see the dish, dish, using using the the liquor in the the bottom bottom of of the separately. from the braised carp. the sauce ofthe sauce separately. carp. Serve Serve the rest of preparation Cold FRoIDE -- Ali All methods of of preparation cARpE FROIDE Cold carp. carp. CARPE (see SALMON) given Salmon trout trout given for salmon (see SALMOI9 and and Salmon for Cold Cold salmon (see TROUT) TROUT) apply apply to to carp. Carp cARpE AU AU COURT-BOUILLON couRT-BouILLoN -court-bouillorl CARPE Carp au au court-bouillon. (prepared with Poach red or in a a court-bouillon with red or Poach the the fish fish in court-bouillon (prepared white and seasoning. seasoning. aromatic vegetables and white wine) containing containing aromatic
188 188

parsley. Serve garnish with fresh parsley. Drain the carp, and and garnish with fresh the carp, Drain with a a sauce sauce used used with with poached fish. with melted butter or with a Lift the from a fillets from Fillets of carp. FILETS FILETs DE DE CARPE cARpE the fillets Fillets - Lift Trim and and poach in a and season season them, and medium-sized carp. Trim cover Drain the the fillets, fillets. and and coyer stock. Drain little concentrated fish fish stock. httle Fines herbes, herbes, sauces: Cream, Crgarn, Fines following sauces: with one one of of the the following with wine, or Normande, White White wine, or any any Mariniire, Normande, Hollandaise, Marinire, Hollandaise, (see SAUCE). fish (see sauce suitable for for poached SAUCE). sauce poached fish by any any of the the garcarp can can be be accompanied accompanied by Fillets of carp poached fish, to poached fish, and and particularly those appropriate to nishes appropriate (see SOLE). given for sole, sole, or fillets fillets of sole (see given FRrrE Deep-fry smalJ small carp in in hot hot oil. cARpE FRITE Fried carp. CARPE - Deep-fry with fine fine salt salt and Drain, and with a a clotho cloth. Season wipe with and wipe Season with Drain, fried parsley and and quarters of lemon. with fried garnish with A LA I-.1udrnr maihe d'htel. d'h0tel. CARPE cARpE GRILLE cRnrfE I la matre Grilled carp MATRE in this way. way. Follow the are prepared in n'uOtEL -- Small carp are D'HTEL (see BASS). instructions for for Grilled Grilled bass bass (see instructions la juive. CARPE A LA rA. JUIVE a medium-sized Carp t la cARpE ruryE -- Cut a Carp with 1 I chopped chopped onion onion and and 3 cook with carp into into slices, slices, and and cook carp (| pint, in 2 dl. (t which have have been cooked in 2 dl. been cooked chopped shallots which (ll oz., g. (1t browning. Sprinkle with 35 g. scant cup) oil without browning. seant cover the fish with with white wine 6 tablespoons) flour. Almost Coyer the fish 6 (or water). water). Season with salt salt and and a a touch touch of and fish fish stock stock (or Season with and garni garlic cloyes Add 2 2 cru crushed cloves and and a a bouquet bouquet garni cayenne. Add cayenne. shed garlic (q.v.). Sprinkle with a a few few tablespoons tablespoons oil. oil. Bring Bring to to the Sprinkle with (q.v.). 20 minutes. lid on on for 20 and simmer slowly with the lid boil, and dish, reforming reforming Drain the the carp carp slices slices and and set set them them on on a a dish, Drain the shape of the the carp. the liquor by two-thirds, rem remove from the Boil down down the the liquor by two-thirds, Boil ove from (+ pint, scant cup) in 2 2 dl. dl. (t cup) oil. oil. Pour over over the heat, and and beat in heat, with chopped chopped parsley. cool. Sprinkle and leave to to cool. Sprinkle with carp and A LA A L'ORIENt'onrcNI'orientale. CARPE r.l JUIVE rutw I la juive i l'orientale. cARpE Carpe juive but after same way in the same way as as Carp Carp d la juive TALE Prepared in TALE - Prepared incorporated has been boiled down down and the oil oil incorporated and the the sauce sauce has been boiled the (l oz., peeled, blanched g. (1 and25 cup) peeled, blanched add a pinch ofsaffron of saffron and oz.,l add 25 g. t cup) and chopped chopped almonds. and parsley. CARPE IERSIL la juive with A LA ra JUIVE rulve AU AU PERSIL i la with parsley. cARpE Carp d lajuive same way as as Carpe la juive with with the addiaddi- Prepared in the same parsley to cooking liquor. liquor. fresh parsley to the the cooking tion of of several several sprigs sprip fresh tion parsley when Add more chopped chopped parsley when ready ready to to serve. serve. Add juive with A LA rl JUIVE AUX la juive with raisins. raisire. CARPE cARpE ruNs AUX Carpe Carpe i la Carp d lajuive. la juive. Add Add to RArsrNs same way as as Carp RAISINS - Prepared in the same incorliquor, in in which which the the oil oil has has been been incorthe boiled-down boiled-down liquor, the (l oz., powdered sugar, porated, 15 g. (t 2 tablespoons) 15 g. oz., 2 tablespoons) powdered sugar, 2 2 porated, (2 oz., g. (2 raisins, cup) seeded seeded raisins, tablespoons wine wine vinegar, 50 50 g. oz., t tablespoons * cup) (mixed) which (2 oz., g. (2 which cup) currants currants and sultanas (mixed) and 50 50 g. oz., t and sultanas and * cup) in lukewarm drained. allowed to to swell swell in lukewarm water and and drained. have been been allowed EN MATELOTE Prepared wi with MATELoTe -- Prepared Carp th Carp en en matelote. matelote. CARPE cARpE EN Eel en into slices in the the same way as as Eel en matelote matelote the the carp carp cut cut into slices in same way (see EEL). (see EEL).

CARROTS
Carp Carp la la polonaise. polonaise. cARpE CARPE A LA por,oNArsE POLONAISE - Stuff a medium-sized carp with fish stuffing and place on a foundation of 50 g. g. (2 oz., I t cup) chopped onion and 25 g. g. (l (1 oz., t cup) chopped shallot shallot in a a fish kettle or large pan. Add a * bouquet bouquet garni garni (q.v.) (q.v.) and and season. season. Almost Almost cover coyer the the carp with liquor consisting consisting of half red wine and half fish fish stock. Add 100 g. (4 oz.) gingerbread cut into large squares. squares. Braise slowly on top of the stove or in the oven. oyen. Drain the carp and cover coyer with the following sauce: Prepare a g. (2 a pale pale caramel syrup syrup with with 50 50g. (2 oz., oz., t cup) cup) sugar and and I 1 dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, scant * t cup) vinegar. Add the sieved liquor in which the fish was cooked, mixed with 100 g. (4 oz, oz., * t cup) butter and and 50 50 g. g. (2 oz., * t cup) flaked ftaked almonds almonds which have have been lightly Iightly grilled. grilled. Carp quenelles. eUENELLES QUENELLES DE cARpE CARPE - Prepare with carp meat in the same way as Pike quenelles (see PIKE). PIKE). Poach the the carp quenelles quenelles and and serve on on croustades feuilleties (see CROUSTADE) CROUSTADE) or on cro0tons crotons fried fried in in butter. butter. letes (see They are accompanied by by various various garnishes garnishes and are are covered covered with with a sauce sauce suitable suitable for for the garnish garnish used. used. (See (See QUENELLE, QUENELLE, Fish quenelles.) quenelles.) also used as as part of the the garnish for Carp quenelles are also large large braised braised fish, and fish fish pies. carp. cARpE CARPE n6rn RTIE - Prepare in the the same way as as Roast carp. Roast Roast pike pike (see PIKE). PIKE). Carps' roes. LAITANC.ES LAITANCES DE DE cARpE CARPE - Often Often used as part of Carps'roes. a garnish for large large braised fish. They can also be served as a a hot hot hors-d'oeuvre hors-d'oeuvre or or as as an an entrie. entre. Carps' roes, roes, and and those those of other other fish, fish, should should first first be Carps' poached poached in a little littre court-bouillon, court-bouillon, or cooked in butter with lemon lemon juice juice addedo added, in in a covered pan. Prepare Prepare according according to the the instructions instructions given given under the the different recipes recipes for soft roes (q.v.). (q.v.). roes l'ancienne. cARpE CARPE FARcTE FARCIE A r'lNcrnNns L'ANCIENNE Stuffed carp I'ancienne. Shfied large, soft-roed soft-roed carp. carp. Remove Remove the flesh ftesh and add it Scale a large, a small eel. eel, and 8 desalted desalted anchovies. Make a to that of a Quenelle forcemeat forcemeat (see (see FORCEMEAT) FORCEMEAT) but but without without Quenelle sauce. Keep Keep it it rather rather firm. firm. Be Be careful, when adding any sauce. removing removing the the carp's flesh, ftesh, to leave leave the the backbone backbone intact, intact, complete with head head and tail. tail. complete Blanch Blanch the the roes, roes, cut them them into into pieces, pieces, and saut6 saut them in butter butter with a a little little lemon lemon juice. juice. Add Add truffies truffies and and mushmushrooms rooms and and a few few tablespoons tablespoons thick thick Allemande Allemande sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Thickly Thickly butter butter a tin tin tray tray of the the same length length as as the the carp. Lay forcemeat forcemeat on on this, this, about 5 5 cm. (2 (2 inches) inches) deep, deep, in the the Lay shape of of the the carp, carp, and and set the the backbone, backbone, to to which which the the head head shape and tail tail are are still still adhering, adhering, in in place. place. Cover Coyer the the bone bone with with a and little little more more forcemeat forcemeat and and add add the ragottt ragot of of truffies, truffies, mushrooms and carp's carp's roes. roes. On On top of this this lay lay about 2* 2t cm. (l (1 roorns inch) forcemeat, forcemeat, keeping keeping carefully carefully to to the the shape of of the the carp. carp. inch) Smooth the the surface surface with with the the blade blade of of a a knife knife dipped dipped in in hst hot Smooth water. Butter Butter a a large large baking baking sheet sheet and and sprinkle sprinkle breadbreadwater. crumbs on on the the butter. butter. Put Put the the tin tin tray trayon which the the carp carp crumbs on which has been been prepared prepared over over heat heat for for a few few minutes minutes so that that the the has butter melts. melts. It is is then then possible possible to to slide slide the the fish fishonto the butter onto the baking sheet. sheet. baking Coyer the the fish fish with with bqaten beaten egg, egg, then then with with fine fine dry breadbreadCover crumbs, pressing pressing them them on on with with a a knife. knife. Pour Pour on melted melted crumbs, butter. With With the the tip tip of of a a small smaU spoon spoon press press in in a a pattern pattern of butter. scales, beginning beginning at at the the head. head. scales, Cook the the carp carp in in the the oven oyen for for 45 45 minutes, minutes, basting basting Cook frequently with with clarified c1arified butter butter so so that that it it acquires acquires a a golden golden frequently colour. Remove Remove from from the the baking baking sheet sheet with a a long long fish fish colour. slice, and and slide slide it it onto onto the the serving serving dish, dish, together together with with a a little Iittle slice, Sauce financiire financire (see (see SAUCE), SA U CE), based based on on fish fish essence. essence. Serve Serve Sauce with more more sauce. sauce. (L'art (L'art de de la la cuisine cuisine frangaise franaise de de CarAme, Carme, with by Plumerey.) Plumerey.) by

or CARPEAU CARPILLON or Very small carp. carp. Also Also a a - Very species of small species small mullet which which does does not not spawn. spawn. This This fish,

which is Euro, which is found in in the and other other EuroRh6ne, the the Rhne, the Sane Sadne and pean pean rivers, is is treated in in the same way way as as carp. Its Its ftesh flesh is tender and delicate. delicate.
CARPION - Variety of trout, found in in alpine CARPION alpine trout, principally found streams. Ali methods methods of preparation indicated indicated for for river streams. All of preparation TROUT). trout can be applied to it (see TROUT). CARR DE BONNEVILLE _ - See CARRE DE BONhIEVILLE SEC CHEESE: CHEESE: CARRIER PIGEON. pigeon which CARRIER PIGEON. BISET BIsEr - Wild Wild pigeon which is is also rock pigeon pigeon. It is smaller than the ring dove (or wood called rock pigeon). Its plumage is slate-grey. slate-grey. be prepared in any way suitable for the domestic It can be pigeon (see PIGEON). PIGEON) ... a marsh bird similar In France, this name is also given to a duck, which is cooked in the sa me way as to the wild duck, same as wild (see DUCK, DUCK, Wild duck). duck (see
CAROTTES - Root Root vegetables which which are CARROTS. cARorrEs are used many dishes, dishes, either as as an base or in many aromatic base an aromatic or alone as as a

garnish. carrot contains contains a a notable notable amount The carrot imount of sugar, sugar, which adds to its nutritive properties. The following recipes recipes are adds The following are used, they should intended for new carrots. If old ones are be blanched first. bchamel sauce. sauce. cARorrEs CAROTTES A LA gEcHIMEL BCHAMEL Carrots in bechamel Cook the carrots in salted boiling water or prepare them in as Glazed the same way as serving, Glazed carrots (see below). Before serving, add a a few few tablespoons Bichamel Bchamel sauce (see (see SAUCE). add SAUCE). Boiled carrots. carrots. cARorrEs CAROTTES A r'ANcL.l,rsB L'ANGLAISE - Cook Cook tender Boild carrots in boiling water. Drain them, and serve fresh butter carrots separately. separately.

1. Long; ]llf.lfi 2. Short, ;i,?Tli'", forced variety ,'"',[?

Two varieties of carrot:

Buttered carrots. carrots. cARorrEs CAROTTES AU AU BEURRE BEURRE - Boil the carrots. carrots, Buttered return them them to to the pan, add a little !ittle butter, butter, and shake shake drain, return so that that each carrot receives a coating coating of of butter. butter. so Carrots en en cheveux cheveux d'ange (angel's hair). hair). c,morrEs CAROTTES EN Carots CHEVEUX D'ANGE D'ANGE - Carrot jam which used used to be prepared cHEvEux

in the the south-west of France. France. (See crrnvuux CHEVEUX n'.l,Ncn.) D'ANGE.) in Carrots I la crlme crme I. 1. cA,RorrEs CAROTTES A I"l LA cniur CRME - Boil the Carrob drain, return to to the the pan and and cover coyer with with boiling boiling carrots, drain, cream. Boil Boil down down by by two-thirds. two-thirds. cream. Carrots i le la cr0me crme II. II. clnorrss CAROTTES rl LA cnilrs CRME - Blanch Blanch 500 500 g. Carrots (generous 1 lb.) carrots, rinse rinse in in cold co Id water, water, and and drain. drain. (generous Coyer with more more cold cold water and and add add a a pinch of salt, salt, I 1 Cover

189 189

CARVING CARVING
(2 OZ., g. (2 tablespoon fine fine sugar sugar and and 50 50 g. oz., i* cup) cup) butter. Bring butter. Bring lablespoon poin1, then boiling point, to boiling reduce the then reduce leave ta and leave the heat heat and cook to cook to the liquid liquid is is syrupy. until the syrupy. Test Test the carrots to to make sure they the carrots they make sure until are cooked. If they are cooked. If are still still bard, hard, add few tablespoons add a a few tablespoons are hot watcr water and and boil down down until until the the Iiquid liquid again again becomes becomes hot syrupy. syrupy. Pour boilng boiling crearn cream over over the the carrots. carrots. Bring Bring to to the the boil, boil, Pour lower the then lower heat and the heat and simmer simmer until until the the cream cream has has boiled then a !iUle. little. Add gently mixing Add 1 down a I tablespoon butter, butter, gently mixing it in. it in. down particular Garnish accord according to the instructions instructions of of the the partcular Garnish lng to
recipe. purCe J, as Carroi Carrot pure same method as with the of a but with the addition a sarne I, but addition of guarter oC weight ln puttiqg the of the the carrots' carrots' weight when putting in rice rice when the quarter carrots on on to to cook. cook. carrots addition of The addition of potatoes or rice in carrot pur6es helps helps 10 to The improve their improve their (,{\T'~,(:lpTlrv consistency. They are prepared in in this this way way garnishes. when used used for for gamishes. when Carrot souffl. sorff6. SOUFFL sourrrf AUX AUx CAROTTES cARorrEs -* Press Press 250 250 g. Carrot (generous lb.) carrots, pur6e, through a carrots, prepared as opr\",r'~l\~ 1 for a as for a pure, I lb.) fine sieve. sieve. Remove Remove the moisture from from the puree by by allowing it to to boil boil rapidly for a few for a few moments. il yolks. Cool Take the the pan off off the the heat heat and add 3 and add 3 egg egg yolks. Cool Take and add 3 whisked egg whites. whites. Turn Turn into into a slightly and 3 stifry whisked a (200'C., 400"f., dish and cook cook in 400'F., in the aven oven (200C., buttered souffl souff6 dish 15 minutes. Serve Gas Mark Mark 6) 6) for for about about 15 Serve al at once. Gas pETITs SOUFFLS soufres. PETITS carrot souffls. Small carrot AUx CAROTTES cARorrEs -SmaU sourrlfs AUX same as for for CarrOI Carrot soffii. Put the soufR soufrE Proceed in the sa me way as mixture in small small fireproof dishes and cook for 6 ta mxture to 8 minutes. * Sieve 250 g. (generous nAIN DE g. (generous ttmbale. PAIN DE CAROTTES cARorrEs Carrot timbale. j lb.) carrots cooked pur6e, and cooked as pan over as for a a pure, and place in in a a pan over ~ for a heat to to dry out for few minutes. Add dry out a few Add 3 whole whole eggs, mix mix heat well, and and turn into a a buttered buttered charlone ...'~II11 weil, charlotte mould mould I1PI'r turn inlo decorated with sliced sliced cooked carrots. pan of hOI Cook in hot water or bain-marie in in a moderate Cook in a pan (180'C., 350F., oven (180C., Mark 4) for 350oF., Gas Gas Mark for 30 30 minutes. minutes. Allow oven stand a a few few minutes before turning out out the mould. to stand Serve with with bchamel bCchamel sauce, hollandaise sauce. santce, cream, cream, or or hollandaise sauce, Serve Ia Vichy. Vichy. CAROITES i la cARorrEs A LA u vrcrry and slice Carrots il! VICHY - Pare and new carrots, carrots, and and cook cook as as fOf for Glazed carrois, carrots, addng adding for new for (scant pint, 2a I teaspoon salt, salt, 25 g. 2| cups) water, 1 each t ] litre (seant (l OZ., g. (2 oz., o2.,2 oz., * cup) buller. 50 g. butter. (1 2 tablespoons) sugar and and 50 When the liquid is is very conce:ntrated concentrated and the the carrots are glazed, arrange them in a a dish and and sprinkle with chopped sprinkle with glazed, them in parsley. parsley. Old carrOis carrots can be used cut them used for this preparation preparation but eut into strips, and blanch in salted boiling cooking boiling water before cooking them with the other ingredients. Ingredients. Sometimes Vichy water is cooking liquor, as the cooking is used as liquor, or Sometimes a light of soda is added to plain water, Iight pinch of of bicarbonate bicarbonate of water.

Carrots aux aux filles fines herbes herbes 1. c.morrns AUX Aux FlNES I. CAROTTES FrNEs HERBES HERBES (see below). in the same way as as for for Glazed Glazed carrois the sa canots (sec Proceed in me way parsley and with chopped Sprinkle with chopped parsley and chervil. chervil. Sprinkle aux fines herbes II. II. CAROTTES cenorrns AUX AUx F1NES fines herbes FrNEs HERBES HERBEs Carrots SIlX Pare and and slice slice sorne some tender carrots. carrots. Blanch Blanch for minutes, 5 minutes, for 5 Pare drain, and and cook cook in in il a liule little butter. butter. Season with salt Season with salt and and a drain, pinch of of sugar, sugar, and parsley and and sprnkle sprinkle with with chopped chopped parsley and pinch chervil. chervi!. Carrot flan flan or or tart. tfft. FLAN FLAN AUX AUX CAROTTES cARorus -- Partly Partly fill fill the Carrot bottom of of a a baked baked pastry shell with a a slightly sweetened shell with bottom pur6e of of carroIs. carrots. Cover with with finely finely sliced carrots carrots which have already already been been cooked cooked according according to instructions for to nstructions for (see below). caruots (see below). Boil Boil down down the liquor in in which the liquor Glazed carrOIs pour it the carrots have been and pour it OVer over the the flan. flan. Sel Set the been cooked and in a a hot hot aven oven for in for a few few minutes. flan can be prepared with a greater This flan greater quantity quantity of sugar be prepared a sweet. as a as Glazed carrots. cLActEs cARorrEs GLACES Pare sorne some young Glue<! carrots. CAROTTES - Pare pan and carrots. Put them in in a pan and cover with cold water. Bring (l OZ., I teaspoon g. (1 o2.,2 to the boil boil with with 1 teaspoon salt, 25 g. 2 tablespoons) (2 oz., and 50 sugar, and 50 g. (2 oz., ! these quansugar, * cup) butter, allowing these (scant pint, for each I litre litre (seant cups) water. tities tities for pi nt, 2{ cups) As soon as it it is boiling lower the heat, cover the pan, and simmer until practically evaporated. Shake the liquid smmer until the lquid has has practically pan so properly covered the so that carrots are are properly covered wlth with the the pan that the the carrots syrupy liquid use them syrupy lquid and and use them according to instructions. instructions. If old quarters, blanch are used, cut them If old carrots carroIS are used, eut them in in quarters, blanch in boiling boiling salted water, and slice. Glazed cARorrEs NouvELLEsi cI,ecfp-s Glazed yourg young carrots. carrots. CAROTTES NOUVELLES GLACES Pare carrots of the same Pare 500 500 g. g. (generous (generous I 1 lb.) new carrots the sa me size, cover cover with with stock, stock, and cook cook slowly in a covered covered pan pan with 50 g. g. (2 a pinch of salt and (2 oz., OZ., * :t cup) cup) butter, a and I 1 teaspoon sugar sugar until until the the liquid liquid is is entirely boiled boled down. down. When the carrots are are cooked cooked and and the the liquid has has become become a a syrup, syrup, roll roll the carrots in in this this so that each one is coated. coated. Carrots Carrots au jus. jus.. cARorrEs CAROTTES AU AU JUs JUS - Proceed Proceed in in the the same way as Glazed camots, as for for Glazed carroIs, but at the last moment add a few tablespoons tablespoons rich rlch brown brown veal veal stock. stock. Simmer Simmer for for a a few minutes minutes and serve. Serve. Carrot Carroi pur6e pure I. I. punfs PUREE DE DE cARorrEs CAROTTES - Coqk Cook 500 500 g. g. (generous (generous I 1 lb.) sliced new carrots in salted water, with the addition addition of I 1 teaspoon leaspoon sugar sugar and I 1 tablespoon butter. butter. Drain Drain the carrots carrots as soon soon as as they they are cooked and put put them them through a fine sieve. sieve. a fine Heat the pur6e. if the pure. Add Add a a little little of the cooking liquor if pur6e pure is too thick, and incorporate 50 E, g. (2 (2 oz,l oz., cup) fresh butter. butter. Mix Mix well weil and and serve. serve. One can use use the carrots from pot-au-feu pot-ou-feu (q.v.) in in this this way. Carrot Carrot purde tr. II. punEe PURE DE DE cARorrrs CAROTTES - Proceed in the the same same way way as as for for Carrot CarroI purie pure I, l, but but 10 10 minutes minutes after aCter setting the carrots carrots on the the stove stove add a quarter quarter of their their volume volume of of sliced potatoes. potatoes. Carrot Carroi puree with with cream. crearn. pURfE PURE DE DE cARorrEs CAROTTES A L,c, LA cntrun CRME the same way as as for for Caruot CarrOI purie.L pure J. Finish finish the the - Proceed in the pur6e pure with wth 4 4 tablespoons lablespoons (| cup) boiled boiled cream crearn and and I 1 tabletablespoon fresh fresh butter. butter. Carrot pur6e pure with Wlh rice. nce. punrs PURE DE DE cAnorrEs CAROTTES AU AU Rrz RtZ - The The
190 190

CARVING. CARVING. p6coupecs DCOUPAGE - The The action acton of cutting up up meat, poultry, poultry, game, game. etc. etc. to 10 serve at table. table. In In former times, the carving of carried out of meat meat was was considered a a noble noble art, art, carried
solely by high officials officiais of royal or princely households who were known as dcuyers (esquires) as cuyers (esquires) tranchants. IranchalIIs. In royal households, the cuyer icayer ftanchant Iranchalll was was usually a

nobleman nobleman and and he he always always carried carried out out his his duties duties with wth his
sword at his side. The art of skilful carving carving was considered essential essential by our forefathers forefalhers and was was taught to well-born young men as as an indispensable part part of good good education. The last last tutor proprovided for young noblemen was a master of carving. For for a long long time in in French society society the carving carving and serving of of food was carried out by the head of the household, who regarded regarded it il as a matter of honour to carve skilfully. skilfully. The Russe, in France France of the the service service it la la Russe, The introduction introduction in which consists consists of of presenting the diners diners with the the food already carved, carved, has has caused the decline at the French French table table of this gracious custom. The carving of meat meal is now done, done, at least in large restaurants, taurants, by by a a specialist known as the the 'earver'. 'carver' He He may may not not have have the the glamopr glamour of the the Ccuyer cuyer tranchant trQl/cham but but he he has the the statns hdtel, and must status of maitre matre d d'htel, must know know his his job job inside insde out. out. In In addition addition to lO a a complete complete knowledge knowledge of of anatomy, analomy, he he must have have great manual manual skill skill and physical physical strength, so sa as as to be he able able to to sever sever the the joints joints of the the animals animaIs he he has to to carve. He He must must also also have have an an intimate ntimate knowledge knowledge of the the grain and and texture of every piece of of meat meat which which he he has has to lo carye, carve, and and he he texture of must must work work with elegance and and delicacy. delicacy.

CASKING CASKING

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wMffiffi

game, fish, poultry, game, fish, meal. meat. carving poultry, Ways of carving Duck;5. Turkey;4. l. Chicken; Chicken;2. Goose;3. 1. 2. Goose; 3. Turkey; 4. Duck; 5. 9. 8. Woodcock; Woodcock ; 9. Pigeon ; 6. 7. Partridge; Partridge; 8. Teal ; 7. 6. Teal; Pigeon; 13. Lobster; ll. Salmon;12. Turbot; 10. Sole; Turbot; 10. Sole; II. Salmon; 12. Lobster; 13. Legof lamb; 15. Shoulderoflamb; Shoulderof lamb; Hare; 14. Legoflamb; Hare; Ham 18. Ham Loinofveal; Filletofbeef; 16. Loin ofveal; 17. Fillet ofbeef; 18.

A number of restaurant carvers won a a world-wide world-wide have won carvers have A number reputation. founded the the who founded Dugnol, who famous Joseph Joseph Dugnol, reputation. The The famous Taverne Joseph, was a ter in One of of in the art of of carving. carving. One a mas master the art his feats accomaccomone of the the feats thus describes one his contemporaries thus plished by able man: by this this most able 'It was few important for a a few was at a a dinner held by M. Paillard for guests, members of of the spellbound spellbound guests, of the Paris press. In front of Joseph dining-room of of in charge charge of of the the dining-room was in who was Dugnol, who Joseph Dugnol, this while a Rouen Rouen duckling duckling while carved a this famous establishment, carved holding prongs of a fork, fork, so so that that there of a there on the the prongs holding it up impaled on it up was nothing into very very thin duck into thin it. He He carved carved this this duck nothing to support it. fillets all perfect order, dish underunderonto the the dish fell, in in perfect order, onto all of of which feU, neath. 'with admirable admirable adds the the narrator, narrator, 'with neath. And And that,' that,' adds despatch less time than it it takes to tell.' tell.' and in in less time than takes to despatch and Another Fr6d6ric Delair, Delair, the the the celebrated celebrated Frdric was the Another such such was ter great Frederick was also master Tour d'Argent, who was also a a mas d'Argent, who Frederick of of the the Tour in jointing and poultry, especially and carving carving poultry, especially in the complex art art of ofjointing the complex Rouen gleat speciality his speciality of of his which was was the the great Rouen duckling duckling which restaurant. restaurant. Principles general principle, principle, ail all meat meat As a a general carving of carving hinciples of - As should grain of meat. of the the meat. vertically, across across the the grain should be carved vertically, be carved The possible. as possible. large and and as as even even as as large The slices must be slices must be as

rule. It It to this this rule. is an an exception exception to mutton is leg of of lamb lamb or or mutton Only Only leg parallel to or at at right right to or in two ways, either either parallel two ways, can can be carved in be carved notn is is always always or not, Ham, whether whether boned boned or angles angles to the bone. bone. Ham, to the if it it is is there. there. the bone bone if vertically, towards towards the carved carved vertically, into Insert the fork into leg. Insert with the the fork the leg. a chicken, chicken, begin begin with To To carve carve a leg it as as a a lever lever on on the press down it, using using it the leg down on on it, the and press the thigh thigh and to sever sever the the sinews. sinews. along the carcase to the carcase knife slides as as the slides along the knife joint. Next, remove the wing. For For Next, remove the wing. of the cartilage of the joint. Sever the cartilage Sever the and feel feel for for the the wing and purpose, insert fork under under the the wing insert the the fork this this purpose, joint with lay the chicken carcase, lay the chicken knife. To To cut cut up up the the carcase, joint with the the knife. in the the fork high high up up in wedging the the fork Hold it it firm firm by by wedging on its back. on its back. Hold lengthwise along along the the breastbone. breastbone. breast. Divide the carcase lengthwise the carcase breast. Divide joint To joint way as as chicken. chicken. To in the same way Nantes is jointed in the same Nantes duck duck isjointed legs, as as for for the two two legs, a by detaching detaching the a Rouen Rouen duck, duck, begin begirt by off the shave off the two two and shave its back back and chicken. Lay the duck on on its chicken. Lay the duck Pressing breastbone. Pressing side of ofthe the breast the breastbone. halves on either either side halves of ofthe breast on into horizontally into fork, cut cut the the breast breast horizontally firmly with the firmly down the fork, down with last of all. removed last of ail. very wings are are removed The wings very thin thin slices. slices. The

in milk milk which which substance in CASEIN. Albumenoid substance csEwr -- Albumenoid CASEIN. CASINE is the of which which is the is fermentation of rennet, the the fermentation is coagulated coagulated by by rennet, origin cheeses. all cheeses. origin of of ail
varieties of of these these CASHEW. There are are different different varieties AcAJou -- There CASHEW. ACAJOU pear cashew is cul culticashew is trees. tias pear known as The type commonly known type commonly trees. The cashew' so-called cashewvated fruit, the theso-calIed Its fruit, regions. Its vated in in the the tropical tropical regions. nut with with white nut tains an nut, an edible edible white contains and con is kidney-shaped kidney-shaped and nut, is iscalled called the the part around nut is aa sweet around this this nut fleshy part The fleshy flavour. The sweet flavour. of whole of cashew-pear, raw throughout the whole throughout the eaten raw is eaten which is cashew-pear, which It has hasaa countries. It South European countries. in sorne some European and in America and South America it can can be be pleasant, withsugar, sugar,it Mixed with pleasant, slightly taste. Mixed slightly tart tart taste. refreshing made well as as aa refreshing preserves, as as well made into into excellent excellent preserves, beverage. beverage. produces aakind wine Fermented, kind of ofwine fruit produces cashew-nut fruit the cashew-nut Fermented, the which or known as asanacard anacardor popular in vinegar known which is in Brazil, Brazil, and andaavinegar ispopular cashew-nut vinegar. cashew-nut vinegar.

Poultry Poultry shears shears (Cou/eU. (Coutell, Andr. Phot. Larousse) LaroussQ Andrl. Phot.

CASKING. liquidinto intoaacask. cask. Pouringliquid ENToNNER- - Pouring CASKING. ENTONNER

191 l9l

CASSATA
CASSATA. cASsArE CASSATE - The cassata is an ice ice cream cream block or mould mould consisting consisting of two two differently flavoured fiavoured ice ice creams creams with a a filling of of Chantilly cream cream and and crystallised crystallised fruits fruits (previously soaked in in brandy brandy or or liqueur). liqueur). It It varies varies greatly gteatly in (previously soaked quality and delicacy. delicacy. quality and Method of of preparatroz. preparation. 'Wash 'Wash I 1 kg. kg. (2* (2* lb., lb., 4| 4t cups) lukewarm water several times and and put it in Carolina rice in lukewarm a large casserole. Cover Coyer with cold co Id water, bring to the boil, allow to boil for a few seconds, and drain. drain. 'Then 'Then cover coYer the the rice with good beef beef stock to about double double its its volume, volume, and and add add some sorne fat-skimmings fat-skimmings from a a chicken chic ken broth. 'Bring to the boil and then draw off the heat, in order order to rernove re)llove more easily easily the the small small amount of scum that will
appear. appear.

CASSAVA. CASSA VA. MANroc MANIOC

- Plant Plant native native to to the the West West Indies, Equatorial Equatorial America, and and Florida, U.S.A. The root, which which

is is a fleshy fleshy tuber, tuber, contains contains edible starch. The sap, containing containing

hydrocyanic hydrocyanic acid, acid, is is poisonous. poisonous. The poison, however, can be be eliminated e1iminated by by fermentation fermentation and cooking. Some Sorne varieties varieties are sweet and do not oot contain poison; they can be be roasted on embers embers and eaten. eaten.

In In South America, America, cassava is is used used in in the the manufacture manufacture of
tapioca. tapioca. The The roots roots are are grated, grated, left to ferment ferment and and then then pressed. pressed. The residue, residue, baked baked into into a a flat fiat cake and powdered, powdered, forms forms afarinha afarinha (Portuguese (Portuguese for for meal). meal). The The starch starch of of cassava, cassava, dried dried quickly quickly by by heat heat when when in in a moist moist condition, agglomeragglomerates ates into into small small masses masses known known as tapioca. tapioca. In In Florida, Florida, cassava cassava is is used used as as food food for man man and beast, beast, and and is is used used to to make make starch and and glucose. glucose.
CASSE MUSEAU (Jawbreaker) CASSE-MUSEAU (Jawbreaker) - Very Very hard hard cake, much much in in vogue vogue in in former former times, times, but but hardly hardly ever ever made made today. today. Here Here is is a a recipe recipe for for this this cake, cake, which which dates dates from from 1730: 1730: 'Take 'Take some sorne cream cream cheese, chee se, 4 4 eggs, eggs, 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz., oz., * t cup) cup) butter, butter, juice juice of of I t lemon, lemon, 300 300 g. g. (ll (11 o2.,2f, oz., 2i cups) cups) flour flour and and a pinch of salt. salt. Mix Mix these these ingredients ingredients into into a soft paste paste and and pincb of
leave leave for for a a few few hours. hours. 'Make 'Make the the casse-museaux casse-museaux in in the the form form of of very very small small buns. buns. Bake Bake for for 15 15 minutes minutes at at a a low low temperature. temperature. Split them them open open

and and put put them them back back in in the the oven oyen to to finish finish baking.' baking.'

CASSEROLE CASSEROLE - Cooking Cooking utensil utensil made made in in copper, copper, alualuminium, stainless stainless steel, steel, nickel, nickel, or or other other metals; metals; and and also also in in minium, terracotta, terracotta, fireproof fireproof porcelain, porcelain, tempered tempered glass, glass, and and enamenamelled elled cast-iron, cast-iron. Many Many are are decorative decorative enough enough to to use use as as serving serving dishes. dishes. Casseroles Casseroles are are usually usually made made in in a a rounded rounded form, form, with with one one

or or two two handles. handles. When When deep-sided, deep-sided, as as is is most most common common in in
U.S.A., U.S.A., they they are are used used in in the the oven; oYen; when when shallow-sided, shallow-sided, they they are are normally normally called called sautoirs, sautoirs, sauteuses, sauteuses, plats plats d sauter sauter (saut6 (saut pan pan or or frying frying pan). pan).
CASSEROLE - In In French French cooking cooking the the term term casserole casserole also also CASSEROLE denotes denotes a a preparation preparation generally generally made made with with rice, rice, which, which, after after cooking, cooking, is is fashioned fashionoo in in the the shape shape of of a a casserole, casserole, or or a a timbale. timbale. Casseroles Casseroles are are also also made made with with a a preparation preparation of of
duchess duchess potatoes. potatoes. In In U.S.A. U.S.A. a a casserole casserole is is a a dish dish made made of of two two or or more more parts, parts, the basis basis of of which which can can be, be, besides besides rice, ri ce, any any pasta pasta (macironi, (macaroni, the spaghetti, spaghetti, etc.) etc.) with with meat meat or or fish fish plus plus a a sauce sauce or or gravy, gravy, and and vegetables. vegetables. This This one-dish one-dish meal meal can can be be prepared prepared in in advance advance and and served served in in a a decorative decorative casserole. casserole. Fi[ings Fillings for for rice rice casseroles. casseroles. cARNrruREs GARNITURES pouR POUR cAssERoLES CASSEROLES AU AU Rrz RIZ - All All the the fillings fillings indicated indicated elsewhere elsewhere for for timbales, timbales, small small pbtty patty shells shells or or vol-au-vent vol-au-vent can can be be used used for for this this entrie. entre. Casseroles Casseroles can can also also be be filled filled with with various various minced minced meats meats

'Simmerfor about I 1 hour, and stir stir so that that the the grains grains burst burst for about 'Simmer Let it it simmer simmer for for another another 20 20 to 25 25 minutes, minutes, and and stir stir it evenly. Let again. When you find find it it is soft soft and and easy easy to crush between between the the again. fingers, take it off the heat. If still hard, add a little more and leave to cook until perfectly perfectly done. Stir it for a a stock and few minutes. minutes. few 'When the the rice rice is is cool, cool, work it well well for a a time time with with a wooden spoon so so that every grain is crushed. It must must be be wooden firm though though malleable. malleable. firm 'Pour out out the the rice rice into into a baking baking tin and and form it into a casserole-shape 12 12 cm. cm. (4 (4 to to 5 5 inches) inches) high, making ma king it it smooth smooth cassprole-shape with the the fingers. fiogers. To decorate decorate it, use use the the point point of of a knife and and with of carrot to to emphasise emphasise the the shape shape of the casserole. casserole. slices of 'Cover 'Coyer the the rice rice with with clarified c1arified butter, butter, and put put in a a hot oyen for for about about 1t hours. hours. The colour col our should should be be a vivid vivid oven yellow. yellow. When When it is is cooked, cooked, remove rem ove the the cover coyer which which you outlined when forming forming the the casserole, casserole, taking taking care care to to remove rem ove outlined ail the the rice rice inside inside which does not not adhere adhere to to the the crust. crust, which which all should be be quite quite thin. thin. should 'Mix 1 tablespoon tablespoon rice rice from from the the interior interior with witb a a little little 'Mix bchamel sauce sauce (if (if the the filling filling is is to to use use this this sauce), or or Spanish Spanish bicharnel (if the the casserole casserole is is to to be be filld filled with with a ragottt ragot containing containing sauce (rf sauce this), or or any any other other sauce, sauce, and and use use to to garnish garnish the the crust which which this), is filled filled with with whatever whatever preparation preparation is is indicated. indicated. Before Before is serving, lightly lightly glaze glaze the the projections projections of the the casserole.' casserole.' serving, (Car6me, Le Phtissier Ptissier royal.) royal.) (Carme, Le Small casseroles casseroles of of rie riee (Car6me's (Carme's recipe). recipe). cAssERoLErrEs CASSEROLETTES Small RIZ - 'These 'These are are made made in in the the same same way way as as casserole casserole of of DE RIz DE rice. ri ce. Place Place them them in in a ahot hot oven oyen on on a a metal metal sheet sheet 7 7 cm. cm. (3 (3 inches) inches) apart. Take Take them them out out when when they they are are all ail a a good good golden golden colour. colour. apart. 'To 'To serve, serve, fill fill them them with with the the appropriate appropriate ragoirt.' ragot.'

l]

CASSIA. cAssE CASSE - Pod Pod of of a a leguminous leguminous plant plant divided divided into into CASSIA. compartments, each each enclosing enc10sing a a fairly fairly large large seed, seed, sursurcompartments, rounded by by a a brownish brownish pulp, pulp, which which is is sweet, sweet, slightly slightly acid, acid, rounded that of of the the prune. prune. with a a flavour flavour resembling resembling that with This pulp pulp has has laxative laxative properties. properties. When When sieved sieved it it forms forms This the casse casse mondCe monde of of the the past. past. the CASSIS - Picturesque Picturesque fishing fishing port port and and commune commune of of CASSIS Bouches-du-Rhne, which which has has given given its its name name to to highly highly Bouchesdu-Rh6ne, esteemed red, red, white white and and ros6 ros wines. wines. (See (See PROVENCE.) PROVENCE.) esteemed

(poultry, (poultry, game, game, etc.),fricassies etc.),fricasses of of fowl fowl with with trufres, truffies, various various preparations preparations of of lambs' lambs' sweetbreads, sweetbreads, truffied trufHed foie foie gras gras esand with with all ail kinds kinds of of ragofrts ragots and and salpicons. salpicons. calopes, and calopes,

rich; rich; its its shape shape and and appetising appetising appearance appearance give give it it a a distinct distinct character; character; it it is is certainly certainly the the most most arresting arresting entrie entre cooked cooked in in
the oven. oyen. the 'For 'For a a dinner dinner which which includes includes eight eight entries, entres, one one prefers prefersto to serve a a handsome handsome casserole casserole of of rice ri ce rather rather than than a a hot bot pdti pt serve or or vol-au-venl, vol-au-vent, and and such such a a preference preference is is right right for for the the casserole casserole is is the the most most attractive attractive of of the the coloured coloured enties. entres.

Rice Rice casserole casserole I'ancienne l'ancienne (CarGme's (Carme's recipe). recipe). cAssERoLE CASSEROLE AU AU RIz RIZ A t'aNcrENxn L'ANCIENNE -'The - 'The rice rice casserole casserole is is as as elegant elegant as as it it is is

Manufactureof ofcassis, cassis, Dijon Dijon(French (French Government Governmenl Tourist Tourisl Ofrce) Office) Manufacture

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CASSOULET CASSOULET
CASSOLETTE CASSOLETTE - Small SmaJl dish dish in fireproof fireproof porcelain, porcelain, metal metal or or fireproof fireproof glass, used used for presenting presenting hors-d'euvre, hors-d'uvre, hot hot or cold, cold, little little entrdes, entres, and and also also some some desserts. desserts. Duchess potatoes, deep fried, fried, hollowed hollowed out and and stuffed stutfed Duchess potatoes, with with with various various fillings, are are also also called cassolettes. Filled with salpicons salpicons or ragofits ragots mixed mixed with with brown or white sauce, they be served served as as hors-d'euvre hors-d'uvre or entries. entres. can be as sweets sweets are are filled filled with creams, creams, various various Cassolettes served as Cassolettes sweetened pastes, or fruits fruits poached poached in syrup. pas tes, or
CASSONADE - French French term for semirefined sugar. sugar. The CASSONADE yellow yellow cane cassonade cassonade has has a a slight flavour fiavour of of rum rum and and is used used in pdtisserie ptisserie for this this reason. reason. The beet beet cassonade cassonade has
rather rather an unpleasant unpleasant taste.
seven must be done done six six times. Serve Serve after after breaking breaking the the crust crust seven times. A Languedoc this this is is called called a a haricot haricot A royal royal feast; feast; in in Languedoc cream or or cassoulet.' cassoulet.' comique Anatole France loved loved the the cassoulet.ln cassoulet. In Histoire Histoire comique he wrote: wrote: Vavin, in the rue Vavin, a little 'I '1 am going going to lead lead you you to to a little tavern tavern in the rue but a stupendous one dish, dish, but only makes chez Climence, Clmence, who only makes one a stupendous legs of contains of which con de Castelnaudary, one: le one: le cassoulet de Castelnaudary, which tains legs (preserved goose), goose), haricot confit confit d'oie d'oie (preserved haricot beans beans previously previously good it To he it must must be good sausages. blanched, pork pork fat, fat, and little little sa usages. To cdsa long long time. Cl6mence's castime. Clmence's slowly for have have cooked very very slowly for a years. She replenishes She replenishes for twenty twenty years. soulet has been cooking for soulet has pork fat, fat, goose, sometimes with pork sometimes with with goose, sometimes with the the pot pot sometimes it is is haricots, but but it or some some haricots, in a a sausage sausage or sometimes she she puts in sometimes and this remains, and this The basis cassoulet. The basis remains, always same cassoulet. always the the same one gives it it a a savour, savour, which which one and precious substance gives ancient and in the masters, in the old Venetian masters, of the the old finds in in the the paintings finds paintings of you to I wish wish you to taste taste Come, 1 women. Come, amber flesh tints of their women. Cl6mence's cassoulet.' Clmence's of Castelnaudary, Castelnaudary, ccssoulets; that of There are three kinds of cassoulets; There and of Toulouse. Carcassonne, and of Carcassonne, differences: following ditferences: have the the following should have The three three types types should The pork, ham, prepared with ham, with fresh fresh pork, is prepared that of of Castelnaudary is that ofCarcassonne ofpork, pork, and fresh bacon skins; that of Carcassonne knuckle of mutton, leg of of mutton, a shortened shortened leg of a addition to to the above of the addition with the has added added breast breast in season; ofToulouse season; that of and partridges in Toulouse has confit confit d'oie d oie or or confit mutton and and confit Toulouse sausage, sausage, mutton of pork, Toulouse de canard. de made is made cassouler is way in in which which the the cassoulet In Languedoc the the way ln it. Some cook the the Some cook is preparing it. whoever is to whoever according to varies according varies together, sausages and sa pork, mutton, skins and mutton, bacon bacon skins usages together, haricots, pork, in the terrine, layers in the terrine, in alterna alternate and then arrange these these in then arrange and te layers bread' of breada thick sprinkling of with a thick sprinkling surface with covering the the surface covering gently for for to cook cook gently oven to it to and take take it to the the baker's oyen crumbs, and crumbs, hours. some hours. some haricot white haricot Simmer white de Castelnaudary Castelnaudary 1 - Simmer Cassoulet de Cassoulet

originates in CASSOULET - Haricot Haricot bean bean stew stew which which originates CASSOLJLET with and mutton, or with Languedoc. It is prepared with pork and goose dish which used goose or duck, duck, in in an an earthenware dish used to to be its known as the cassolle d'Issel, from whence whence derives i ts name. known Franc-Nohain, humorous poet, sang the praises of Languedoc cassoulet in in his his Nouvelle cuisiniire cuisinire bourgeoise. He verse for cassoulef, gives a recipe in verse cassoulet, the the substance of even gives is here: here: which is a leg of one, a I see see two casseroles. In one, 'On a a moderate fire 1 (preserved goose goose or duck) duck) as de canard canard (preserved confit d'oie or confit de and loin of mutton, are ribs of pork and weil as little sausages, well sausages, ribs and 2 not forget flavouring, 2 tomatoes and forget the flavouring, browning. Do not white Soissons haricots Meanwhile the onions cut in four. four. Meanwhile the white Let the gently in the cooking are in the utensil. Let other utensil. the other are cooking gently and meat arrange the beans and proceed for 2 hours, and proceed and then arrange in the same earthenware vessel, in such a way that the goose or duck, mutton and distributed between layers of and pork are distributed in the oven. cassoulet in the oyen. haricot beans. beans. After which put the which put the cassoulet haricot golden cru forms, thick thick crust Then on st forms, a golden the dish a on the surface of the the surface the incorporated with the and because it must he be incorporated it, because fat. Break it, and fat. wait until until oven, wait in the the oyen, rest Put it it back back in the ingredients. Put rest of the and this this another crust forms, again must he be broken: broken: and forms, which again

I-

(Rober tCarrier) Cassoulet Cassoulct(Robert Carrier)

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CASTAGNACI CASTAGNA CI
beans and and bacon bacon skins glazed earthenware inaaglazed skins in earthenware pot pot with with the the beans usual seasoning, seasoning, meats, meats, aromatic aromatic vegetables vegetables and pinchof andaapinch of usual garlic. garlic. Drain and place them and place them in in an an earthenware earthenware pot pot which which has has Drain been lined lined with with the the fresh fresh bacon bacon skins, skins, knuckle knuckle of pork, of pork, been pork, sa breast of of pork, sausage, and aa leg leg of of confit confit d'oie. d'oie. breast usage, and Sprinkle with with aa layer layer of of coarse coarse breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and add add Sprinkle goose fat. Cook gently in the oven for several hours. goose fat. Cook gently in the oven for several hours. good golden When aa good golden crust crust has has formed formed on on the the surface surface of of When the cassoulet cassoulet stir stir it it in in with with aa spoon spoon and and repeat repeat this 2 or this 2 or 3 3 the times. times. Gourmets like like this this served served with with either either a a fine fine red red Aquitaine Aquitaine Gourmets wine or or with with an an old old Minervois Minervois wine. wine. wine Cassoulet de de Castelnaudary Castelnaudary fi tr -- For For eight people soak eight people soak Cassoulet (If, pints, I litre litre (I~ pints, generous generous quart) quart) dried dried white white haricot haricot beans beans 1 for several several hours, hours, but not for for too but not too long long or or they they may may begin begin to to for ferment. Simmer Simmer in in an an earthenware (l l oz.) earthenware pot pot with g. (lI with 300 300 g. oz.) ferment. salt breast (7 oz.) pork, 200 breast of g. (7 of pork, 200 g. oz.) desalted desalted rolled-up rolled-up bacon bacon salt skins, a a carrot, carrot, an an onion onion stuck stuck with with cloves, cloves, and and a a bouquet bouquet skins, garni containing 3 garlic. Season 3 cloves cloves of of gar!ic. Season with with a a very very little little garni containing salt. salt. In another another pan, pan, brown brown in in lard lard or goose fat, (lf g. (1 or goose fat,750 lb.) 750 g. t lb.) In loin of pork and of pork and 500 g. (generous I lb.) boned loin of mutton, 500 g. (generous lib.) boned loin of mutton, loin well seasoned seasoned with with salt pepper. Add salt and and pepper. Add 2 2 medium-sized medium-sized weil chopped on garni and onions, a bouquet bouquet garni and 2 2 crushed crushed cloves cloves of of chopped ions, a garlic. Continue Continue cooking cooking with with the lid on the !id gravy or on and and add add gravy or garlic. beef stock stock from from time time to to time. time. beef When the haricots are the haricots are nearly nearly cooked, cooked, remove remove the the carrot, carrot, When onion, and and bouquet garni, and bouquet garni, put in and put in the pork, mutton, the pork, mutton, a a onion, garlic sausage, a leg of confit d'oie or confit de canard, dnd a garlic sausage, a leg of confit d'oie or confit de canard, and a home-made sausage. sausage. Sim gently for Simmer for 1 I hour. hour. home-made mer gently pieces of Remove the the pieces meat from of meat from the the haricot beans. Cut Cut Remove haricot beans. pork, mutton the pork, mutton and goose into and goose slices of of equal equal size, size, cut cut the the the into slices bacon skins skins into pieces, the garlic skinned gar!ic bacon into rectangular rectangular pieces, the skinned sausage and and the sausage into slices. the sausage into slices. sausage Put into a large earthenware pot lined with skins, Put into a large earthenware pot lined with bacon bacon skins, alayer of haricot haricot beans beans and and then then a a layer layer of of thc th" various various meats meats a layer of with alternate layers, of their their sauce. sauce. Fill Fill the the pot pot with with alternate layers, with some sorne of seasoning On seasoning each each one one with with a a little little freshly freshly ground ground pepper. pepper. On the the last last layer layer of of haricots haricots lay lay slices slices of of salt salt pork, pork, bacon bacon skins, skins, and slices of and slices of garlic garlic sausage. sausage. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with white white breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, and and pour pour over over them them a a goose fat. Cook gently in the oven for about l] hours. little little goose fat. Cook gently in the oven for about It hours. Serve Serve the the cassoulet cassoulet in in the the pot pot in in which which it it has has cooked. cooked. There There are are other other Languedocian Languedocian cassoulets, cassoulets, that that of of Luchon, Luchon, for example, which pistache. is called for example, which is called pistache.

(A LA) CATALANE LA) -- Garnish Garnish for for large large pieces pieces of of meat meat CAT ALANE (A composed of of aubergines aubergines sauted saut6ed in in oil, pilaf of oil, and and pilaf of rice. rice. composed (SeeGARNISHES.) GARNISHES.) (See
CATECHU. CACHOU cAcHou -- Thick Thick sap sap which which cornes comes from from aa CATECHU. variety of of lndian Indian acacia. acacia. Areca (betel nut). Areca catechu cotechu (betel nut). The variety The catechu is is found found in in compact, compact, crumbly, crumbly, irregular irregular masses masses catechu which are are brownish brownish on on the the outside outside and and reddish-brown reddish-brown on which on inside. It the inside. It should should neither neither stick itick to to the the tongue tongue nor nor tint tint the the the saliva red. red. saliva Its taste, taste, at at first first bitter bitter and and astringent, astringent, becomes becomes sweet sweet Its and clean clean without without any any smel!. smell. The The most prized varieties most highly highly prized varieties and come from from Sri Sri Lanka Lanka and and Burma, Burma, the latter having the latter having medicinal medicinal come properties. properties. The catechu catechu contains contains a a strong proportion of strong proportion of tannin, tannin, The gives it which gives it astringent astringent properties. properties. which

Catfish Catfish

porssoN-cHAr - American CATFISH. river fish fish found prinCA TFISH. POISSON-CHAT - American river cipally in in the the Mississippi basin. basin. It It has six bar barbels cipally has six bels or feelers around the the mou mouth from 30 (12 to 30 to to 60 60 cm. cm. (12 to 24 around th reaching from inches) in in length. length. The flesh is is delicate and and there there are not too inches) manv bones. many bones.

CASTAGNACI CASTAGNACI (Corsican (Corsican cookery) cookery) - Thick Thick fritters fritters or or
waffies made with chestnut flour. waffies made with chestnut flour.

meat. meaL The The Castiglione Castiglione garnish garnish consists consists of of large large mushrooms mushrooms stuffed stuffed with with rice rice and and browned browned in in the the oven, oven, aubergines aubergines saut6ed in butter, and slices of poached beef marrow- (see sauted in butter, and slices of poached beef marrow (see GARNISHES). GARNISHES).

preparation CASTIGLIONE CASTIGLIONE (A (A LA) LA) - Preparation of of small small pieces pieces of of

Cat Cat and aDd rabbit rabbit bones: bones: A. of rabbit: Hindlimbofrabbit; A. Hindlimb B. B. Hindlimb Hindlimb of ofcat; cat; C. C. Forelimbofcat; Forelimbofcat; D. rabbit D. Forelimb Forelimb of ofrabbit

CASTRATE. CASTRATE. cuArnrn CHTRER - Castration Castration of of animals animais destined destined for their fattening. fattening. for the the butcher, butcher, to to hasten hasten their The The word word chdtrer chtrer is is also also applied applied to to ihe the removal removal of of the the
intestines intestines of ofcrayfish crayfish (U.S. (U .S. crawfish) crawfish) before before cooking. cooking. In In order order

intestines intestines emerge. emerge. CAT. cH,c,r Domestic cat whose CAT. CHAT - Domestic cat whose edible edible meat meat has has a a flavour flavour halfway halfway between between that that of of rabbit rabbit and and hare. hare. Cat's Cat's meat rneat has has often periods been eaten in of famine famine or or siege. siege. Legend Legend has has often been eaten in periods of it that in in the the cook-shops cook-shops the the cat cat is is often often used used in in the the making ma king it that of of rabbitfricassies. rabbit fricasses. Examination Examination of ofthe the bones bones would would easily easily enable of doubt, doubt, to to distinguish distinguish between between the the enable one, one, in in case case of two animals. two animais.

to to do do this this the the central central part part of of the the tail tail is is pinched pinched and and the the

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CAULIFLOWER CAULIFLOWER P or KETCHUP CATSUP - Condiment of English English origin, origin, CATST widely used in England England and and U.S.A. It has has a a tomato used both in base and is highly spiced. spiced.
CAUF. BANNEToN BANNETON - Receptacle Receptacle with with holes holes which permits permits CAUF. fish to be kept alive in water. This term is also used usee! to describe a baker's bread basket. basket. CAUL. cntprhrr CRPINE - Membrane Membrane enclosing the paunch paunch of enclosing the CALTL. animaIs, applied applied particularly to to that that of pork and and mutton. animals, In French, this is also called toilette.
CHOU-FLEUR -- Vegetable Vegetable of CAULIFLOWER. cHou-FLEUR of oriental oriental origin, known known in Italy since the sixteenth sixteenth century. A delicate

food which must always always be bought when when its leaves are green. This is is an an indication of freshness. The leaves leaves are are edible. CHOU-FLEUR A r'lNcrArsn L'ANGLAfSE - Boil Boiled cauliflower. cauliflower. cHou-FLEUR Boiled Boil a drain and and serve with melted in salted water, drain cauliflower in salted water. serve with butter. butter. According to the English a cauliflower served in Engl.ish method a way must must be be cooked whole, whole, with with two this way rows of tender two rows leaves enveloping the flower-head. The leaves, ribs, The ribs, and not be be wasted. wasted. They and stems should not are excellent trimmed and cookee! cooked with the white part. They excellent trimmed can also be used for soup, can also soup, hors-d'uvre, hors-d'euvre, etc. etc.

or noisette cHouCauliflower with Cauliflower with brown butter butter or noisette butter. butter. CHOUcauliflower florets in salted - Boil the cauliflower a dish in in the shape of a dome. water and and arrange them on a and lemon Cover with Sprinkle with chopped parsley and Sprinkle lemon juice. juice. Coyer (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Combutter (see Brown butter butter or with Noisette butter pound butters.) m CRME cnErvrn cream. CHOU-FLEUR cHou-FLEUR A Cauliflower Cauliflower with cream. LA - Cook above, drain, and and toss described above, the cauliflower cauliflower in the way described in their original form. their original in Rearrange the the florets butter. Rearrange florets in in butter. (see SAUCE). SAUCE). a Cre Crearn Cover with a Coyer am sauce sauce (see EN FRITOTS FRITors Cauliflower fritters. fritters. CHOU-FLEUR cHou-FLEUR EN Cauliflower - Cook the water, keeping them rather florets in in salted salted water, cauliflower florets keeping them in oil, oil, lemon and soak them 30 minutes in Drain, and firm. them for firm. Drain, for 30 juice, pepper. and pepper. chopped parsley, parsley, salt and juice, chopped (see BATTER). in BATTER). Fry Fry in in a a light light batter Dip the Dip the florets florets in batter (see Serve with tomato fried parsley. and sprinkle sprinkle with fried deep fat and parsley. Serve sauce. sauce.
FLET;R FLEUR AU BEURRE BEURRE NorR NOIR -

gratin au gratin Cauliflower Cauliflower au

Cauliflower, Cauliflower, whole and flower and with flower head detached (right), which is is the only only detached (right), part generally generally used used for for consurnption consumption

(cold). CHOU-FLEUR BoiIed with various variors sauces saucs (cold). cHou-FLEUR Boiled cauliflower with into florets, florets, cook cook them in cauliflower into them in the cauliflower - Divide the salted put tbem cold tap. water, drain, and put the cold tap. under the drain, and salted water, them under Arrange in their form. Serve Serve with Arrange the florets in their original original form. the Borets Vinaigrette sauce, cold sauce Mayonnaise or or sorne some other other cold sauce sauce, Mayonnaise (see SAUCE). (see SAUCE). (hot). CHOU-FLEUR Boiled with various variors sauces sauces (hot). cttou-FLEUR Boiled cauliflower cauliflower with BOUILLI into florets, florets, trim, and boil boil cauliflower into trim, and BourLLr -- Divide the the cauliflower them in their in salted Drain, and and arrange arrange them them in their water. Drain, them in salted water. original form. Garnish with fresh fresh parsley. original form. Garnish with Serve for melted butter butter or or one one of of the the usual usual sauces sauces for with melted Serve with boiled White sauce, sauce, etc. etc. vegetables: Cream, Hollanldaise, White boiled vegetables: Cream, Hollandaise, (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE).
BOUILLI BourLLI -

GRATIN -- Cook Cook the au gratin. CHOU-FLEUR cHou-FLEUR AU AU GRATIN Cauliflower au and in boiling salted water, water, drain drain them, them, and cauliflower florets in boiling salted cauliflower florets gratin dish dish and and in butter. Arrange on on a a buttered buttered gratin toss toss gently in (see SAUCE). Sprinkle with coyer sauce (see SAUCE). Sprinkle with Mornay Mornay sauce cover with oven. in the grated chee and brown brown in the oyen. grated se and and melted melted butter, butter, and cheese rrtIt,c,NAIsE -A LA rl MILANAISE cnou-rrsuR Cauliflower I la la milanaise. milanaise. CHOU-FLEUR drain water, drain in boiling salted salted water, Cook florets in Cook the cauliflower florets the cauliflower grated Pargently in Parwith grated and in butter. butter. Sprinkle Sprinkle with and toss toss them them gently oven. When When in the Brown in mesan melted butter. butter. Brown the oyen. cheese and and melted mesan cheese (see BUTTER, BUTTER, pour on Noisette butter butter (see serving, a little little Noisette serving, pour on a Compound Compound butters). butters). in MoRNAY -- Prepared Prepared in Cauliflower Mornay. CHOU-FLEUR cHou-FLEUR MORNAY Cauliflower Mornay. gratin. the me way &t gratin. way as as Cauliflower Cauliflower au the sa same pAIN DE in the Made in the Cauliflower DE CHOU-FLEUR cHou-FLEUR -- Made mould. PAfN Cauliflower mould. pur6e of a pure of with a same Endive loaf(see ENDIVE) but but with same way way as as Endive loaf (see ENDIVE) ca uliflower. cauliflower. PoLoNAISE -Cauliflower i, LA LA POLONAISE la polonaise. CHOU-FLEUR cHou-TLEUR i la Cauliflower and sprinkle sprinkle Arrange on a a buttered dish and Arrange cooked cauliflower on buttered dish cooked cauliflower yolks mixed with chopped chopped mixed with with egg yolks with chopped chopped hard-boiled hard-boiled egg (see parsley. Pour Noisette butter butter (see parsley. cauliflower Noisette Pour over over the the cauliflower fried in which which have have been been fried BUTTER, butters) in BUTTER, Compound Compound butters) (4 oz., g. (4 (l oz., per 100 g. (1 100 g. oz., ! 25 25 g. fresh breadcrumbs oz., t cup) fresb breadcrumbs per I I cup) frothy. cup) at once; should be be frotby. cup) butter. Serve at once; the the butter butter should butter. Serve

195 195

CAVAILLON CAVAILLON punfr DE pur6e. PURE Cauliflower pure. DE CHOU-FLEUR cHou-FLEUR -- Cook Cook and and CauliOower drain a a caulifiower, cauliflower, dry it for for aa moment moment in dry it in the the oyen, oven, and and drain pass it it through through a a sieve. sieve. Add Add one-quarter one-quarter of of its its weight weight of of pass potato pure, pur6e, and and heat. heat. Mix Mix in fresh cream, in fresh cream, butter and butter and potato seasoning. seasoning. Cauliflower sai salad. sALADE DE DE CHOU-FLEUR cHou-FLEUR -- Boil Boil aa caulicauliCauliflower ad. SALADE flower in in salted salted water, water, and and drain. drain. Season Season with with oil, oil, vinegar, vinegar, flower juice, salt lemon juice, pepper. Sprinkle salt and and pepper. Sprinkle with with chopped chopped chervil. chervil. lemon Cauliflower sauted saut6ed in in butter. butter. CHOU-FLEUR cHou-FLEUR SAUT slur6 AU eu CauliOower BEURRE -- Blanch Blanch cauliflower cauliflower florets, florets, drain, drain, and and cook cook in in BEURRE butter until lightly browned. until lightly browned. Arrange Arrange in in a pour a dish dish and and pour butter the butter butter over. over. the Cauliflower souffl. sorffd. SOUFFL sourrrf DE DE CHOU-FLEUR cHou-FLEUR -- Prepare Prepare Cauliflower with cauliflower cauliflower boiled boiled in in salt salt water. water. Pass Pass it it through a fine fine through a with in the (see CHICORY, sieve, in same way as for for Chicory the same way as Chicory souffl CHICORY, sou,ffii (see sieve, ENDTVE). ENDIVE). Stalks and and stumps stumps of of cauliflower. cauliflower. MOELLE MoELLE DE DE CHOU-FLEUR cHou-FLEUR Stalks Trim the the stalks stalks or removing the or stumps, stumps, removing woody outer outer the woody - Trim casing. Blanch Blanch whole whole if if they they are with the vegeare to to be be served served with the vegecasing. are to table. If If they they are be cooked cooked separately, separately, cut to he pieces. cut into into pieces. table. After blanching, these prepared these stalks stalks and and stumps stumps can can be be prepared After in the way as the same same way as artichoke artichoke stalks stalks or or endive endive stumps. stumps. in
CAVAILLON -- Little Little town in the Vaucluse district town in the Vaucluse district which which CAVAILLON given its has given (see MELON). its name name to variety of a variety to a of melon melon (see MELON). has
CAVEAU Small cellar, cellar, sometimes sometimes reserved for for fine fine wines. wirres. CA VEAU - Small
The baby baby sturgeons sturgeons rapidly rapidly struggle from the freefrom struggle free fertile the fertile The eggs and, and, after after aa three-month period in place of three-month period in the theplace of their their eggs birth, descend descend to mouth of of the to the the mouth riverwhere wherethey remain the river they remain birth, years. They for several several years. They then move to andlive livethere then move to the thesea sea and for there grown, returning returning to until fully fully grown, to the river only only when the river when they until they reach the age of reproduction. the age of reproduction. reach At one one time, time, the the Cossacks Cossacks of of the Ural River River harpooned harpooned the Ural At holes in fish through the fish through holes in the the ice, ice, thus thus obtaining obtaining the first the the first year. This yellowy-gold caviare caviare of of the This yellowy-gold the year. caviare was was superior superior caviare gift worthy rest, aa gift all the to ail the rest, Tsar, to preworthy of of the whomthey the Tsar, to whom they preto it. sented it. sented Extracting the caviare is is aa knack knack acquired the caviare acquired only only through Extracting through Immediately the gutted (while (while fish is experience. Immediately the fish iscaught, it is isgutted caught, it experience. still al alive, and after after having having let let its its blood still ive, and blood through through an an incision incision under the the caudal caudal fin fin so as to so as to diminish its reactions). reactions). The under diminish its The are immediately immediately extracted eggs are placed on a special extracted and and placed eggs on a special sieve sieve washed, drained, to be be washed, drained, and and salted. salted. to perfected a Soviet scientists scientists have have perfected a type Soviet of Caesarian type of Caesarian operation for for sturgeons possible for sturgeons that makes it operation that makes it possible for them them to to be thrown thrown back into the river alive back into the river alive and and recommence recommence the be the reproduction cycle. cycle. reproduction process, Iran Whatever the the process, Iran and proand Russia, Russia, the Whatever the biggest biggest producers, offer offer three three types types of of caviare: cavi4re: ducers, malossol -- A plump, Caviare firm, plump, Caviare malossol A fresh fresh caviare caviare with with firm, packed in sparkling eggs eggs packed in specially sparkling lasso 1 specially treated treated tins. tins. Ma Malossol 'slightly salted' means 'slightly Russia. salted' in in Russia. means Fresh salted Fresh salted caviare caviare -- From From both Russia and and Iran. both Russia Iran. It It is is prepared using prepared using eggs eggs collected collected during during the the hot hot season. season. Packed Packed (132 lb.) in in casks casks which which contain contain approximately kg. (132 approximately 60 lb.) 60 kg. caviare. It It is is difficult difficult to in Europe. caviare. to find find in Europe. Pressed the fishing at the Pressed caviare caviare -- Prepared Prepared at fishing season. the end end of ofthe season. It It consists consists of a dense mass of of a of crushed crushed black dense mass black eggs eggs which which are are jars. packed in glass jars. in small packed small glass production of French French annual annual production of caviare caviare does does not not amount amount to to (which at more more than than 3 tons, and and the 3 tons, the sturgeon sturgeon (which at one one time time was was even even caught caught in rare. in the and more more rare. the Seine) Seine) is is becoming becoming more more and Depending Depending upon yields upon its its age age and and size, size, a a female female sturgeon sturgeon yields (9 to anything anything from from 4 4 to 16 kg. kg. (9 lb.) eggs. to 16 to 35 eggs. The The average average 35 lb.) yield per (13 lb.) per fish yield in the the Gironde Gironde is is 6 kg. (13 lb.) Eaten fish caught caught in 6 kg. Eaten lightly lightly salted salted a a few few days days after after being being fished, fished, French French caviare caviare is is delicious. Gourmets Gourmets eat eat caviare caviare as as it it is, is, without without toast toast or or butter, butter, juice. simply on juice. simply adding a a sprinkling lemon sprinkling of of lem There qualities of There are are different different qualities of caviare caviare and and many many other other fishes' fishes' eggs are sold eggs are commercially under sold commercially under the the name name of of ('salmon caviare', 'caviare' 'caviare' ('salmon caviare', for for example), example), but but the the term term 'caviare' on its own can on its can only be be used used to to designate products based based on on sturgeon roe.

CAVEAU(LE)society, bacchic and gastronomic. and gastronomic. CAVEAU .t'LE) - Literary society, in 1729 by Piron, Piron, Coll, Coll6, Gallet Gallet and and Crbillon Cr6billonfils. Founded in fils.
CAVIARE. cAvrAR The roe roe of the the sturgeon sturgeon family, family, lightly lightly CA VIARE. CAVIAR - The salted saI ted or marinated. is the 'fruit' of the 'fruit' of the the sturgeon, sturgeon, a a migra migratory fish, of of Caviare is tory fish, which there there are are a a dozen dozen or or so so different different varieties, varieties, each each which belonging to one of two two species. species. That That found found in in the Gironde sturio. is Acipenser sturio. The sturgeon sturgeon lives lives in in coastal coastal waters waters and and in in the the spring, spring, The it swims up up the rivers to spawn. The time when fully grown, it of this migratory the temperature of migra tory movement depends upon the of the water, which itself depends upon upon the the severity severity of the of preceding win winter and the the melting snows. It It usually usually takes ter and melting snows. place sometime between March and and July. The females year) search their eighth eighth or or ninth ninth year) The females (then (then in in their for a deep sandy pool in the upper reaches reaches of ofthe the river where the water is fresh; fresh; while the males (from six to to seven seven years onwards) love pursuit, pursuit, escorting the of love onwards) engage in in a a kind kind of females to the spawning grounds.

CA VOUR ( (A LA) preparing small CAVOUR pieces of small pieces of - Method of preparing meat, meat, especially especially veal veal escalopes escalopes and and calves' calves' sweetbreads. sweetbreads. These are served on circles of polenta, garnished garnished with grilled grilled pur6e of mushrooms and and filled filled with with a a pure livers and of chicken livers and slices of truffie. YENNE PEPPER CA PEPPER CAYENNE pimenta. pimento.

See pepper or See PEPPER, PEPPER, Red Red pepper or

CELERIAC or CELERY ROOTS. CLERI-RA VE CELERIAC cfr-rRr-n^q,w

- Celeriac - Celeriac is a variety variety of of celery which has has a large edible edible root. Wash and

Caviare ((Pelrossian. Phal. Nicolas) C.attlare Petossian. Phot.

celeriac. Divide into quarters and pare the celeriac. and cut cut into into pieces or large slices. Blanch them for for 5 minutes in in boiling salted salted water, plunge into cold water, water, drain, water, drain, and and wipe wipe dry. dry. Cook Cook them in butter, adding a little littIe white stock or water. All Ali the are applicable to recipes for branch celery are to celeriac. The following recipes can also be be applied to this this vegetable. The vegetable. JULIENNE oE DE CLERI-RAVE Celeriac julienne. JULTENNE cfrenl-nAvE - Used Used as as a a celeriac, wash and cut it into matchgarnish. Pare a root of celeriac, or julienne julienne strips. Put them into a saut pan pan in in which which stick or a saut6

196 196

CELERY CELERY

I1 tablespoon tablespoon butter butter has has been been heated. heated. Add Add salt salt and and a a little little powdered powdered sugar, sugar, and and cook cook slowly. slowly. Celeriac Celeriac purde. pure. punrn PURE or DE cfrnru-Rlvs CLERI-RAVE - Garnish Garnish for for large large or or small small pieces pieces of of meat. meat. The The pur6e pure is is prepared prepared in in the the same same way way as as for for Cardoon Cardoon purie pure (see (see CARDOON). CARDOON). Salpicon of of celeriac. celeriac. sALPIcoN SALPICON os DE cErrRI-nAvE CLERI-RAVE - Cut Cut the the Salpicon celeriac into into squares, squares, blanch blanch in in salted salted water, water, drain, drain, and and celeriac cook cook in in butter. butter. Stuffed celeriac celeriac il la la paysanne. paysanne. cfr,Eru-nc,vE CLERI-RAVE A uq. LA p.lvslNNe PAYSANNE Stuffed - Used Used as as a a garnish. garnish. Pare Pare and and slice slice 2 2 oeleriac celeriac roots roots into into rounds rounds 3 3 cm. cm. (l (1 inch) inch) thick. thick. Blanch Blanch for for 5 5 minutes minutes in in salted salted water, into cold cold water, water, drain, drain, and and dry dry in in a a cloth. clotho Scoop Scoop water, plunge plunge into its depth. a a hollow hollow in in each each slice slice to to half halfits depth. Dice Dice the the pulp pulp which which has has been been hollowed hollowed out, out, and and add add double double the the quantity quantity of of carrot and and onion onion brunoise brunoise (q.v.) (q.v.) sauted in in butter butter and and seasoned seasoned with with salt salt and and pepper. pepper. saut6ed Stuff the the celeriac slices with this this mixture. mixture. Put Put them tbem in in a a buttered ovenware ovenware dish, dish, dust dust them them with with grated grated cheese, cheese, buttered sprinkle with melted melted butter, butter, and and brown brown in a a moderate moderate oven' oyen. sprinkle All used for tomatoes tomatoes and artichoke hearts hearts Ali the stuffings used be applied applied to celeriac. celeriac. can also be

gated gated by by trussing trussing or or culture cultrne in in the the dark, dark, or or the the roots roots (celeriac) (celeriac) are are eaten. eaten. Both Both are are eaten eaten raw raw in in salad, salad, or or cooked. cooked.

Celery Celery contains contains an an essential essential oil, oil, which which is is highly highly aromatic. aromatic. According According to to the the different different varieties, varieties, either either the the stems, stems, elonelon-

The The Loire Loire Valley Valley is is the the principal principal region region of of French French proproduction. duction. Celery Celery has has diuretic diuretic and and appetite-stimulating appetite-stimulating properties. properties. Celery Celery juice juice is is rich rich in in Vitamins Vitamins A A and and C. C.

BRANCH BRANCH (FORCED) (FORCED) CELERY. CELERY. cfrnru CLERI EN EN BRANcHBS BRANCHES Trim Trim off off the the upper upper branches brancbes of of the the celery, celery, keeping keeping only only the the tender tender parts. parts. Remove Remove the the green green outer outer stems stems and and trim trim the the root. root. Wash Wash the the base base of of the the celery, celery, allowing allowing water water to to run run
between between the the stems stems so so that that all ail earth earth or or other other foreign foreign matter matter is is washed washed away. away. Pare Pare the the outer outer stems stems to to remove remove the the fibres. fibres.

Blanch Blanch the the celery celery in in boiling boiling salted salted water water for for l0 10 minutes. minutes. Plunge Plunge into into cold cold water, water, drain, drain, and and wipe wipe dry' dry. Spread Spread out out on on a a cloth, cio th, open open the the stems stems slightly slightly and and season season inside. inside. Tie Tie them them together, together, 2 2 or or 3 3 at at a a time, time, and and put put them them in in a deep casserole casserole which which is is already already buttered buttered and and lined lined with with a deep Cover carrots. and sliced bacon bacon rinds, rinds, chopped chopped onions onions and sliced carrots. Coyer
with with white white stock stock from from which which not not all ail the the fat fat has has been been skimmed, skimmed,

or or with with beef beef stock. stock. Begin Begin cooking cooking on on the the stove, stove, then then remove rem ove the the pan pan to to the the at a oven oyen and and cook cook for for l] 1t hours hours at a low low temperature. temperature. au maigre Celery Celery can can be be cooked cooked au maigre (without (without meat) meat) by by omitomitstock with replacing the and replacing rinds and ting ting the the bacon bacon rinds the stock with water. water. sfcHlMEL cELERIS A sauce. CLERIS with b6chamel Celery with Celery bchamel sauce. rl LA BCHAMEL each and halve drain, and Braise Braise the the celery, celery, drain, halve it it lengthways. lengthways. Fold Fold each l0 for 10 and sim simmer in a a buttered put in buttered pan portion in half, half, put portion in pan and mer for (see too thick thick (see sauce Bichamel sauce with Bchamel Cover with minutes. - not minutes. Coyer not too minutes. a few few minutes. again for for a Simmer SAUCE). Sim SAUCE). mer again and Trim, wash, wash, and BEURRE cELERIs AU in butter. butter. CLERIS Celery in - Trim, Celery AU BEURRE Halve water. Halve in salted salted water. l0 minutes minutes in for 10 heads for celery heads blanch celery blancb in a a portion in in two. Place in two. Place each portion and bend bend each lengthways and them lengthways them few tabletablewith a a few pan, season, and moisten moisten with season, and well-buttered pan, well-buttered for 45 45 minutes minutes covered, for Cook, covered, water. Cook, or water. white stock stock or spoons white spoons

Varietiesof ofcelerv and celeriac celeriac Varieties celery and

Usedaa celery. Used wild celery. form of of wild Cultivated form CELERY. cErenr- - Cultivated CELERY. CLERI into wider wider not come come into did not Romans, celery celerydid great deal great deal by the Romans, by the havetried tried Growers have century. Growers cultivation the sixteenth sixteenth century. until the cultivation until asthe root. asweil wellas the root. to leaves as the leaves todevelop develop the
197 197

I horn. hour. or 1 or and shorten shorten Pare and A LA CRME cniue -- Pare cfrnp.ls with cream. cream. CLERIS Celery with Celery from fibres from the fibres remove tbe and remove Wash them them and celery. Wash of celery. heads of heads plunge water, plunge boiling water, in salted salted boiling Blanch in stems. Blanch outside stems. the outside the drY. and dry. drain, and water, drain, into cold cold water, into in a a wellwellarrange them them in lengthways, arrange Halve the heads lengthways, the heads Halve (or with with light bouillon bouillon (or with a a light pan, season, and coyer cover with season, and buttered pan, buttered maigre)' au maigre). you want serve them them au want to to serve if you water if water put it for pan and it in in the the oyen oven for and put the pan Cover the Bring to to the the boil. boil. Coyer Bring and pieces in in half, half, and the pieces celery, bend bend the the celery, Drain the I hour. hour. Drain about 1 about it down. down. and boil boil it liquor, skim, skim, and the liquor, place on a dish. dish. Strain Strain the on a place sauce B6chamel sauce (3 tablespoons, cup) Bchamel scant I cup) tablespoons, scant it t+ dl. dl. (3 Add to to it Add (see SAUCE). SAUCE). (see (| pint, fresh cream. cream. thick fresh pint, seant cup) thick scant cup) 2 dl. dl. (1 with 2 Moisten with Moisten Mix, strain, strain, I tablespoon butter. Mix, add 1 tablespoon butter. and add half and Boil down down by by balf Boil the celery. celery. pour this over the sauce and porn this sa and uce over rl' A LA (cold hors cfreRJs d'cuvre). CLERIS hon d'uvre). grecque (cold la grecque Celery la Celery quarters into quarters well, divide divide into wash weil, heads, wash Trim celery celery heads, cREceuE -- Trim GRECQUE fot Artichokes Artichokes h described for manner described prepare them in the the manner them in and prepare and (see ARTICHOKE). grecque (see ARTICHOKE). la grecque la The same as same as I'ITAIIENNe A L'IT cfrnrus l'italienne. CLERIS Celery I l'italienne. Celery AUENNE -- The (see CARDOON). CARDOON). I'italienne (see d l'italienne for Cardoons Cardoons for jus. CLERIS for Cardoons Cardoons asfor The same same as AUJUS Jus -- The cfrrrus AU Celery au au jus. Celery jus (see (see CARDOON). CARDOON). au jus au as The same same as A LA t A MOELLE l,roslt,s -- The c6rsnts with marrow. marrow. CLERIS Celery with Celery (see CARDOON). CARDOON). withmarrow marrow (see forCardoons Cardoons with for as for for The same sameas MoRNAY - Tbe cfrnrus MORNAY Mornay. CLERIS Celery Mornay. CeJery (see CARDOON). CARDOOI'{). Mornay (see Cardoons Mornay Cardoons The same same PARMESAN- - The AUPARMESAN cfI.sns AU with Parmesan. Parmesan. CLERIS Celery with Celery (seeCARDOON). CARDOOI'Q. Parmesan (see withParmesan asfor forCardoons Cardoons with as peCLERIS punfeDE pur6e in inthe the thepure Prepare the pur6e.PURE cfLBRIs- - Prepare Celerypure. Celery

CELLAR
same way way as as for purie (see (see CARDOON), for Cardoon Cardoon pure CARDOON), using using same braised celery, celery, cooked cooked with with beef beefbouillon bouillon or or water. water. Add Add braised potatoes in proportion of in the the proportion of aa third third of of the the volume volume of of the the potatoes celery; this this improves improves the the consistency. consistency. celery; Celery with with various various sauces. sauces. CLERIS cELERrs AUX AUx SAUCES sAUcEs DIVERSES DrvERsEs Celery Pare, wash, wash, and and blanch blanch celery. celery. Cook Cook in in salted salted water, water, drain, drain, -- Pare, and serve serve like like asparagus, asparagus, with with sauces sauces handed handed separately. separately. and Celery vinaigrette. vinaigrette. ClERIS cfrsRrs A LA r.q, VINAIGRETTE vtN.q,rcRETrr -- Scrape Scrape Celery and wash wash the the celery. celery. Arrange Arrange the the sticks sticks in glass. in aa crystal crystal glass. and Serve with (see SAUCE) with Vinaigrellesallce Vinaigrette sauce (see SAUCE) handed handed separately. separately. Serve

viding him him with with the theenergy energy necessary necessary for physical work, for his his physical work, viding as weil well as glucosides and as valuable valuableglucosides and Vitamin Vitamin B. B. as Flour-refining processes processes too too often often deprive deprive the the cereal cereal of Flour-refining of its husk germ, both husk and and germ, both of of which which contain contain these these vital vital nutrinutriits tive elements. elements. It It is is for for this this reason reason that that dieticians dieticians advocate advocate tive the consumption consumption of of wholemeal wholemeal bread, bread, sprouted sprouted wheat wheat and and Ihe whole rice. rice. whole CERVELAS -- Sausage Sausage made made of pork meat of pork meat and pork fal, and pork fat, CERVELAS seasoned with garlic. This with garlic. This type type of of charcuterie charcuterue is is so-called so-called seasoned (cervelle), particularly because brains brains (cervelle), particularly pigs' pigs' brains, brains, once once because formed part part of of its its composition. composition. It is also It is also ca called Saucisson formed lied Saucisson (see SAUCISSON, de Paris Paris (sec SAUCISSON, Parisian Parisian saucisson). saucisson'\. de

CELLAR. CAVE cAVE -- Underground Underground room room with with or or without without an an CELLAR. arched ceiling, ceiling, in in which which wine wine is is kept. kept. A good cellar A good cellar must must be be arched (10" to cool (100 to Ire., 12C.,50' to 54'F,), 54'F.), slightly slightly damp, damp, and and the the air air cool 50 to must circulate circulate a a little. little. must Liqueur cellar. cellar. CAVE c,c,vs A LIQUEURS LreuEURs -- Chest, Chest, made made by by a a Liqueur cabinet maker maker or goldsmith, used or goldsmith, used to to lock lock up precious ftagons up precious flagons cabinet and sometimes sometimes liqueur glasses. liqueur glasses. and CELLULOSE -- A A substance substance of of varying varying degrees degrees of of hardhardCELLULOSE ness which which forms forms the the tissue tissue of of vegetable vegetable matter. matter. ness
CENTRAL AMERICA AMERICA -- Sec See INTERNATIONAL INTERNATIONAL COOKCOOKCENTRAL ERY, American American cookery. cookery. ERY,

CHABICHOU -- See See CHEESE. CHEESE. CHABICHOU

CHABISSOUS or or CABECOUS CABECOUS -- See See CHEESE. CHEESE. CHABISSOUS

CHABLIS -- Town Town in in the the district district of of Yonne Yonne famous famous for for its CHABLIS its (see WINE). white wines wines (see WINE). white
CHABOISSEAU Freshwater fish fish of of the the Couus Cottus family familv CHABOISSEAU - Freshwaler which has has delicatc delicate flesh. flesh. which

CENTRAL EUROPE EUROPE Al\.'D AI\D THE THE BALKANS BALKANS See ININ- See CENTRAL TERNATIONAL COOKERY. COOKERY. TERNATIONAL
CEPAGE Plant, variety variety of of vine. vine. French French vines, vines, restocked restocked - Plant, CPAGE with American American vines, vines, have have been grafted onto been grafted onto the ancient the ancient with vine stocks stocks which which are are recognised recognised as as the the bcst best in in each each region. region. vine The number of vine vine varieties varieties is is considerable. considerable. Among Among the the The number of principal stocks stocks there there are: are: principal In Bordeaux Bordeaux the the Cabernet Cabernet franc, the Cabernet Cabernet sauvignon, sauvignon, In franc, the the Merlot, the Malbec, and the the Venlot Verdot for the Mer/ol, the Ma/bec, and for red rcd wines; wines; the the Sauvignon, the the Smillon, Simillon, and and the the Muscadel/e for white Sauvignon, Muscadelle for white wines. wines. In the Pinot noir is ln Burgundy, Burgundy, the Pinot noir is the the principal principal wine wine stock stock for for the the Chardonnay Chardonnay for for the same in the red rcd wines; wines; the the white. white. The Tbe same in Champagne except noir is Champagne except that that the the Pinot Pinot noir is made made into into white white wine. Gamay excellence in wine. Gamay is is the the vine vine par par excellence in Beaujolais. Beaujolais. It Tt is is also also grown grown all ail over over central central France France and and in in the the west. west. The The Syrah Syrah and and the the Viognier Viognier are are found found mainly mainly in in the the northern northern C6tes Ctes du du Rh6ne; Rhne; the the Grenache, Grenache, Carignon, Carignon, Cinsault, Cinsalllt, Mourlv/ourvDdre, and Ugni are the the vines vines common common to to vdre, Clairette, Clairette, and Ugni blanc blanc are the the south south of of France France and and the the southern southern Cdtes Ctes du du Rh6ne. Rhne. In In Alsace Riesling, TramiAlsace the the principal principal vines vines are are the the Sylvaner, Sylvaner, Riesling, Traminer, gris (Tokay), ner, Pinot Pinot gris (Tokay), and and Muscat. Musem. The The white white wines wines of of the the Loire Loire come come from from either either the the Sauvignon Sauvignon (Pouilly-sur-Loire, (Pouilly-sur-Loire, Sancerre, Sancerre, etc.), etc.), from from the the Chinin Chnin (Vouvray, (Vouvray, Saumur, Saumur, Anjou), Anjou), or or from from the the Muscadet. Muscadet. The The Jura Jura wines wines come come principally principally from from the the pinot Pinot blanc blanc and and the the Poulsart; Poulsarl; the the Muscat Muscat wines wines from from Roussillon Roussillon are arc derived and derived from from the the Alicante; Alicame; the the Grenache, Grenache, the the Aramon, Aramon, and the the Carigane Carigane are are the the vine vine stocks stocks with with a a high high yield, yield, cultivated cultivated in in the the ddpartemenls dpartements of of Aude, Aude, H6rault Hrault and and Gard. Gard. Among Among the the notable notable vine vine stocks stocks producing producing table table wines wines are are the the various variollS Chasselas, Chasselas, the the Muscats Muscats (white (white and and red), red), the the Oeillade, Oeillade, etc. etc.

CHABOT -- Mediterranean Mediterranean fish fish which which locally locally is is called called CHABOT 'scorpion', 'sea-devil', 'sea-devil', and 'toad', on and 'toad', account of on account of ilS its strange 'scorpion', strange appearance. It It is is also 'tadpole' because of its also known as as 'tadpole' its large appearance. head, and and'grumbler' and'sea-cock' of the rumbling 'grumbler' and 'sea-cock' because of head, sound it it makes makes when held in the hand. hand. The ftesh flesh ofthis of this fish is sound delicate and and is is used in bouillabaisse bouillabaisse and fish fish soups. soups. It should delicate used in Il should not be be eaten eaten during Ihe the spawning season from November to not May. In In France, France, chub are sometimes called chabot. May. CHAINGY See CHEESE. CHEESE. CHAlNGY - See CHALK. CHAUX cHAUx - Calcium Calcium oxide, oxide, found found in in various CHALK. various combinations and in different different forms in binations and in organic tissue. Drinking water contains a proportion of calcium salt water often con tains too high high a and is 'hard'. This and is called called 'hard'. This water water prevents the the satisfactory cooking can remove the calcium cooking of of vegetables. vegeta bles. One One can the ca lei um salts from drinking water by decanting it it after prolonged prolonged boiling from drinking and subsequent cooling, but aerated by and su bseq uent cooling, but it it must must then thcn be be aerated beating. CHAMBERTIN CHAMBERTIN - Vineyard Vineyard on the C6te Cte d'Or in the commune mune of of Gevrey-Chambertin. Gevrey-Chambertin.
CHAMBORD CHAMBORD (A (A LA) LA) - Method of of preparing preparing large large braised braised fish CARP, fish which which includes includes a a very very complex complex garnish. garnish. (See (See CARp, C ar p C hambo r d ; G ARNISHES). Carp Chambord; GARNISHES), CHAMBRER CHAMBRER "- Said of of wines wines that that are brought brought up up from the the cellar hours before before they they are are due due to to be be served, so so that thal cellar several several hours they room temperature. temperature. All Ail red red they can can be be slowly slowly raised raised to to room Bordeaux Bordeaux should should be be chambri. chambr. The The expression expression goes goes back back to 10 a a time time when when the the word word chambre almost any any room room in in the the house. house. The The chambre could could apply apply to to almost pantry pantry was was the the chambre chambre where where the the wine wine was was usually usually kept kept before drunk. The The cold cold dishes dishes were were kept kepl in in the Ihe pantry pantry before being being drunk. and and its its temperature temperature was was therefore therefore not not very very high. high. Gastronomes Gastronomes are are more more or or less less in in agreement agreement that that the the various be served served at al the Ihe following following temtemvarious wines wines should should be peratures: peratures: Dry Dry white white wines, wines, between bclween 5" 5 and and 8"C. 8e e. (41'and (41 and 46"F.) 46F.) Dessert Dessert white white wines, wines, between between 2 200 and and 5'C. 5e. (36" (36 and and 4l'F.) 41 "F.) Rose 8 and and 10"C. 10 0 e. (46'and (46 0 and 50.F.) 50F) Ros wines, wines, between between 8o Light Light red red wines, wines, between between l0o 10 and and 12'C. 12e. (50' (50 and and 53.F.) 53F.) The The great great Burgundies, Burgundies, between betwecn l5o 15" and and 17"C. Ire. (59. (59 and and 63'F.) 63F.) The The great great Bordeaux, Bordeaux, between betwecn 16'and 16 and l8'C. 18e. (61" (61 0 and and 64'F.) 64F.) It lt is is also also a a question question of of taste. tas te. A A connoisseur connoisseur who who wishes wishes to Burgundy at at l8'C. 18e. (64"F.) (64F) and and his his Bordeaux Bordeaux at at to have have his his Burgundy
C
0

Ctpn CPE -

Recipes Recipes will will be be found found under under MUSHROOM. MUSHROOM.

French French name name for for boletus boletus or or edible edible mushroom. mushroom.

CEREALS. CEREALS. crn6,trrs CRALES - Farinaceous Farinaceolls foodstuffs foodstuffs which which are are the the basis basis of of human hu man diet. d iet. Oats, Oats, wheat, wheat, maize, maize, millet, millet, barley, barley, rice, rice, rye rye and and Indian Indian millet millet are are the the gramineous gramineous crops; crops; only only buckwheat buckwheat belongs belongs to group. All Ali cereals cereals can can be be made made into into to the the polygonaceous polygonaceous group. bread, bread, but bul wheat wheat and and rye rye are are particularly parlicularly suitable suilable for for this this purpose. purpose. Cereals Cereals are are indispensable indispensable elements elements of of man's man's diet, diet, propro198 198

CHAMPAGNE
20'C. 20 e (68"F.) (68F.) does not have have to uncork uncork the bottles and leave them in the dining-room, as he would have bave done in the old days. central heating, our dining-rooms have a a temdays. With central perature 24"C. (75'F.). peralure often as as high as as 22'C. noe (71"F.) (71F.) or 24e (75F.). It Il is therefore necessary necessary to 10 gauge the proper proper rate of temperature-raising ture-raising to avoid avoid offering offenng guests overheated overheated wine. wine. The process process must must be be slow. slow. A A bottle bottle of wine wine should should never be be plunged into hot hot water or left near near a fire or radiator radiator to hasten hasten
0

the process. process.

CHAMOIS - Wild Wlid mammal, mammal, bearing bearing some resemblance resemblance to the goat, goal, found found in i.n the high Alps and in the Pyrenees, Pyrenees, where where it it is called ealled Isard. Isard. Chamois meat is considered considered excellent venison, especially especially when wben the animal is young. young. It It is tS tougher lougher when the chamois chamois is older, and should be he properly marinated marinated before before cooking. cooking. It It is is prepared prepared in the same way as roebuck roebuck (q.v.).
CHAMPAGNE CHAlVlPAGNE - This This province, province, which which comprises comprises approxiapproximately malely the four dipartements dpartements of Marne, Ardennes, HauteHaute-

Marne and Aube, Aube, has a world-wide reputation reputation for its great great sparkling sparkling white wines. wines. The The cooking cooking in the province province is rather ralher limited limited but excellent. excellent. The The local local charcuterie is is in in the the first first rank rank of gastronomic gastronomie specialities, especially the the delicious deiicious andouilleues andouillettes of Barsur-Aube sur-Aube and and Bar-sur-Seine; the the andouillettes andouillelles de de mouton mouton and the langues langues fourries fourres of of Troyes; Troyes; the the famouspigJ' famous pigs' trotters IrOllerS d la la Sainte-Menehould: Sainte-Menehould; Reims Reims hams hams and and knuckles: knuckles; and many other dishes. Meat, particularly parlicularly mutton, is good, and poultry pouJtry is fairly good. good. Fruit fruit and and vegetables vegetables are are excellent. Freshwater freshwater fish include trout, trout, carp, carp, pike pike and and salmon. salmon. Good Good furred furred and feathered game game is to be be found, and the the Ardennes thrushes thrushes are especially prized prized by by connoisseurs. connoisseurs. Culinary Culinary specialities specililities - Among the dishes of Champagne Champagne are matelotes matelotes (q.v.), (g.v.), using using champagne champagne; la potCe pote champenoise; champenoise; ; la quartier de de mouton d la la champenoise; champenoise; boudin de de lapin d la Sainte-Menehould; thrushes th rushes d I'ardennaise, l'ardennaise, poulet poulet d la peau peau de goret; goret; gougire gougre de I'Aube; l'Aube; salade dc de pissenlit pissenlit an au lard; and,

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Gastronomic Champagne GAstronomie map map of o[Champagne

CHAMPAGNE CHAMPAGNE

Grape harvest harvest in in Champagne ( Inurent-perrier) Champagre (Laurent-Perrier) Grape

as a a sweet, sweet, beignets beignets au au fromage blanc. blanc. as Vineyards The cellars cellars of of Champagne Champagne are are famous. famous. One One - The Vineyards single wine wine embellishes embellishes them them Champagne. single - Champagne. The vine-growing vine-growing district district of of Champagne Champagne is is divided divided into into The great regions: three great regions: three Montagne de de Reims. Reims. South South of of Reims, Reims, of prinof which which the the prinMontagne cipal vineyards vineyards are are ViJliers-Marmery, Villiers-Marmery, Verzy, Yerzy, Verzenay, Verzenay, cipal Beaumont-sur-Vesle, Mailly, Mailly, Sillery, Sillery, Puisieulx, Puisieulx, Ludes, Beaumont-sur-Vesle, Rilly-la-Montagne, Chigny, Trois-Puits, Trois-Puits, Montbr, Montbr6, VillersVillersRilly-la-Montagne, Chigny, Allerand, Sermiers, Charmery, Charmery, Ecueil, Ecueil, Sacy, Villedomange, Villedomange, Allerand, Sermiers, Jouy, Linked with the Montagne Montagne de de Reims Reims is is the Jouy, Vrigny. Vrigny. Linked with the Petite of Hermonville, Hermonville, SaintSaintPetite Montagne Montagne with with the the vineyards vineyards of Thierry, Trigny Trigny and and the Cte C6te de de Bouzy Boury with the Thierry, and P6vy; Pvy; and vineyards Tr6pail, Louvois, Tauxidres, Ambonnay and Ambonnay and vineyards of of Trpail, Louvois, Tauxires, Bouzy. Bouzy. Vallie are: Ay, Valle de de la la Marne. Marne. Its Its principal principal vineyards vineyards are: Mareuil-sur-Ay, Dizy, Cumires, Cumidres, HautMareuil-sur-Ay, Mutigny, Mutigny, Avenay, Avenay, Dizy, villiers, villiers, Damery, Damery, Tours, Tours, Bisseuil, Bisseuil, Venteuil, Venteuil, Fleury-laFleury-IaRividre, on the Rivire, Reuil, Reuil, Vandidres, Vandires, Verneuil, Verneuil, and and Vincelles on right right bank; bank; Nardeuil, Nardeuil, Boursault, Boursault, Leuvrigny, Leuvrigny, Festigny, Troissy, Troissy, and and Dormans Dormans on on the the left left bank; bank; Epernay, pierry, Pierry, Moussy, Moussy, Vinay, Vinay, and and Saint-Martin Saint-Martin on the the C6te Cte d'Epernay. d'Epernay. C6te Cte des des blancs. blancs. South-east South-east of of Epernay Epernay of of which which the principal Avize, Grauves, principal vineyards vineyards are: are: Cuis, Cuis, Cramant, Cramant, Avize, Grauves, Oger, Oger, I Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Mesnil-sur-Oger, Vertus, Vertus, BergdresJes-Vertus, Bergres-les-Vertus, Mancy, Mancy, Oiry, Oiry, Monthelon. Monthelon. The The wine wine of of Champagne Champagne - Apart Apart from from the the 'still' 'still' white white and and red red wines wines which which are are called called nature nature wines, wines, Champagne Champagne wine wine must must be be made made effervescent effervescent according according to to the the so-called so-called Mithode Mthode champenoise champenoise with with the the second second fermentation fermentation taking taking place place in in the the bottle. bottle. This This method method (perfected (perfected by by Dom Dom p6rigPrignon) non) comprises comprises a a series series of of processes processes that that can cao be be summarised summarised as as follows: follows: 1. 1. Usual Usual alcoholic alcoholic fermentation fennentation followed followed by by all ail the the processes processes employed employed in in the the production production of of white white wine. wine. (It (lt should should be be remembered remembered that that in in Champagne Champagne the the black black grapes grapes are are used used en en blanc blanc which which means means that that only only the the juice juice of of the the grape grape is is fermented.) fermented.) 2. 2. Constitution Constitution of of the the cuvie cuve (or (or special special blend) blend) by by comcombining wines selected biningwines selected from from aa variety variety of ofChampagne Champagne growths. growths. 200 200

Montmort

Scale

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Mapof ofChampagne Champagne vineyards vineyards Map

CHAMPAGNE CHAMPAGNE
Champagne Champagne production production

Modern bottling plant

(Yt,on)

Fermentation chambers ( Laurent- Pe rrier)

'Champagnisation' 'ChampagnisaI ion' in cellars in the the cellars (Lawent Perrier) (Laurenr Perrier)

Extraction of cork olsediment-coated sediment-coatedcork Extraction (Laurent- Perrier\ (Laurent-Perrier)

Sublerranean etChandon Chandon cellarMol Motet Champa-ene cellar SubterraneanChampagne (Mol Chandon) (Modtel Chandonl et

Modernequipment forlabelling bottles equipmentfor labellingboltles Modern ( Delavaud \ (Delavaud)

201

CHAMPAGNE CHAMPAGNE
CHANTERELLE (Cantharellus (Cantharellus cibarius) cibarius) - - Edible EdiblemushmushCHANTERELLE room,also also known known in in France France as girolle. (See (SeeMUSHasgirolle. MUSHroom, ROOMS.) ROOMS.) CHANTILLY -- Name given to Name given to fresh fresh cream cream beaten beatento tothe CHANTILLY the consistency of of aa mousse, mousse, sweetened sweetenedand and flavoured flavoured with with consistency vanilla or or other other flavours. flavours. ft It can can also also mean mean aahollandaise hollandaise vanilla sauceto to which whichwhipped whipped cream cream has has been added; also been added; sauce also aacold cold saucecomposed composed of of mayonnaise mayonnaise and and whipped whipped cream. cream.These These sauce last two twosauces sauces are are also also known known under under the the name name of ofmousseline. mousseline. last The name name can can be be applied applied to to various various preparations preparations and pastry The and pastry (See CHICKEN, confections. (See CHICKEN, Chicken Chicken d la la chantilly; confections. chantillv: CHARLOTTE, Charlolle Charlotte Ia chantilly.) d la chantilly.) CHARLOTTE,
Old champagne champagne bottles bottles Old

jaw, or CHAP. BAJOUE BAJoUE -- The The lower lower jaw, (especially or half half cheek cheek(especially CHAP. pig). of pig). of
CHAPELER -- The The preparation preparation of of breadcrumbs breadcrumbs by drying CHAPELER by drying them in in the the oyen oven and and sieving sieving them. them. In In the grilled the old old days them days grilled bread was was called pain cappel. called pain (See BREADCRUMBS.) cappeli. (See BREADCRUMBS.) bread (Mediterranean cookery) CHAPON (Mediterranean cookery) -- Slice Slice of CHAPON French of French rubbed with garlic and bread rubbed with garlic and seasoned seasoned with with oil oil and and vinegar. vinegar. bread In the the south south of of France, France, and and especially especially in in Languedoc, Languedoc, bread In bread treated in in this this way way is is added added to to salads, salads, especially especially to treated to chicory chicory salad. salado CHAR or or CHARR. CHARR. OMBLE oMBLE CHEV cHEvALTER Fish of of the CHAR ALlER -- Fish the salmon salmon genus, found found in in the the deep deep lakes lakes and and rivers rivers of genus, of Switzerland, Switzerland, Savoy and and Auvergne. Auvergne. It It resembles resembles trou trout, Savoy t, but but has has finer finer scales scales and teeth; teeth; and and black black spots spots on on the the sides. The flesh sides. The and flesh is is very verv delicate. lt It is prepared like is prepared like Salmon (see TROUT). Salmon trout trout (see delicate. TROUT).

3. After After a a 'dosage' 'dosage' of of cane cane sugar, poured into sugar, the the wine wine is is poured into 3. hermetically sealed sealed bottles. The sugar bottles. The provokes a sugar provokes a second second hermetically fermentation by releasing carbonic by releasing carbonic acid gas; this acid gas; this is is called called fermentation prise de (sparkling process). the prise de mousse mousse (sparkling process). the 4. Working Working of of the the deposit. deposit. The The bottles placed on bottles are are placed on 4. (each bottle wooden frames frames (each bottle having having a a cage cage of its own) own) and of its and wooden slowly raised raised from from a a horizontal horizontal to to a position, to a vertical vertical position, to slowly enable the the deposit deposit left left by fermentation to by fermentation to slide slide down down enable towards the the cork. cork. towards 5. Disgorging. Disgorging. Removal Removal of of the the deposit. deposit. 5. 6. Topping Topping up up the 'liqueur'after the bottles bottles with with a a 'liqueur' the deposit deposit 6. after the has been removed. This been removed. This liqueur liqueur consists consists of of cane cane sugar sugar solusoluhas tion of of varying varying strengths, strengths, depending depending on on whether whether the the client client tio'1 requires an an extra extra dry, dry, dry, dry, demi-sec demi-sec or or sweet sweet Champagne. Champagne. requires 7. Cellarage. C,ellarage. The The bottles are matured matured for bottles are period which for a a period 7. varies according according to to whether whether the the wine wine is is vintage vintage or or nonnonvaries vintage. vintage. (Fine) CHAMPAGITIE (Fine) given to Name given to certain certain brandies - Name CHAMPAGNE made the Charentes Charentes area. area. The The famous famous name given to name given to the made in in the locality produces these which produces famous brandies is due, it is due, it is locality which these famous brandies is said, to a resemblance between the soil and and the the chalky chalky subsubsaid, to a resembJance between the soil soil with with that of the Champagne region region of soil that of the Champagne of north-west north-west (See CHARENTE, France. CHARENTE, Eaux-de-vie.) Eaux-de-vie.) France. (See CHAMPAGNISER To produce quality or sparkling quality CHAMPAGNISER - To produce the the sparkling to to treat treat wines wines according according to to the the Champagne Champagne method. method. CHAMPIGNY CHAMPIGNY (Pashy) (Pastry) - Use Use puff puff pastry pastry Qtdte (pte feuilletie) feuillete) which which has has been been rolled rolled out out six six times times (see (see DOUGH). DOUGH). Roll Roll it it out out to to a a thickness thickness of of not not more more than than 3 3 mm. mm. (* (t inch) inch) in in a a square square shape. shape. Fill Fil! the the centre centre with with a a layer layer of of apricot apricot jam jam flavoured with and containing containing a a few few apricot apricot kernels. kernels. with a a little little kirsch kirsch and Moisten Moisten the the edge edge of of the the pastry, pastry, cover coyer with with a a layer layer of of pastry pastry I1 cm. cm. (* (t inch) inch) thick, thick, and and seal seal the the edges, edges, indenting indenting them with with a To prevent prevent the the jam jam from from seeping seeping out out during during the the a fork. fork. To baking, baking, press press a a ribbon ribbon of of pastry pastry round round the the edges. edges. Brush Brush with and bake bake in in a a moderate moderate oven oyen for for 25 to to 30 30 with beaten beaten egg egg and minutes. glaze. minutes. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with icing icing sugar sugar and and glaze. CHAMPOREAU CHAMPOREAU - Black Black coffee coffee with with the the addition addition of of eaueaude-vie, Cognac, Armagnac, Armagnac, rum rum or or kirsch. kirsch. In In slang slang lanlande-vie, Cognac, guage champoreau. guage one one says/aire says faire champoreau. CHANFAINA CHANFAINA (Spanish (Spanish cookery) cookery) - Cook Cook a a lamb's lamb's or or pig's pig's liver Fry 2 2 large large chopped chopped onions onions in in oil. oil. When When liver in in salt salt water. water. Fry almost almost cooked, cooked, add add diced diced pimentos, pimentos, chopped chopped parsley, parsley, and and chopped chopped fresh fresh mint. mint. Season Season with with salt, salt, pepper, pepper, cinnamon, cinnamon, and and cumin, cumin, and and cook cook for for a a few few minutes. minutes. Add Add the the cooked cooked liver, liver, cut cut up up into into large large dice. dice. Cook Cook on on a a fairly fairly strong strong heat heat for for a a few few minutes. minutes. Add Add a a few of the the liquor liquor in in which which the the liver liver has has been been few tablespoons tablespoons of cooked. quantity of of breadbreadcooked. Boil Boil for for 5 5 minutes. minutes. Add Add a a small small quantity crumbs water in in the the manner manner of of a a bread bread panada panada crumbs cooked cooked in in water (q.v.) (q.v.) to to bind bind the the sauce. sauce. Season Season highly. highly.
202 202

(Pork butcbery) CHARCUTERIE (Pork butchery) The art CHARCUTERIE art of preparing of preparing - The (especially pork) meats (especially pork) in in order to present them them in in various various ways. 'The pig, pig, whose whose meat meat prepared prepared by pork butchers 'The by pork butchers is is the delight of of gourmets, was was despised despised by delight by the the Egyptians, Egyptians, and and Moses included included it it among the the impure impure meats Moses meats which which he he forforbade the the Hebrews Hebrews to eat. bade

Inside Inside a a pork pork butcher's butcher's shop shop (rrfrcolas) (Nicolas)

'The 'The Greeks Greeks raised raised the the status status of ofthe the animal animal so so far far as as to to make make

it it the the favourite favourite victim victim in in sacrifices sacrifices offered offered to to the the gods. gods. They They
also also used used pork pork fat fat in in cooking. cooking. The The Romans Romans probably probably learned learned

how how to to prepare prepare pork pork from from them. them. The The Roman Roman porcella parcella law law determined determined the the manner manner of of raising, raising, feeding, feeding, killing killing and and

CHARCUTERIE CHARCUTERIE

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charcuterie products: Some charcuterie Sorne Products : Liver Filet deSaxe; Saxe;9' gras sausage; sausage;8. pudding;7. Foie gras Black pudding; deTours;6. paris harn; 5. Rillon Rilion deTours; rillettes; 5. Pain de de rillettes; 1. 2. Rolled shoulder; 3. Galantine head; 4. Pain 6. Black 7. Foie 8. Filetde 9. Liver ofboar'shead;4. Galantine ofboar's l. Paris ham;2. shoulder;3. grasgalantine(Larousse) foie gras galantine; 14. Truffied foie poultry galantine; 14. Truffled Truffied poultry 13. Truffled Brawn; 13. pt; galantine (Larousse) 12. Brawn; galantine; 12. Poultry galantine; galantine; II. ll. Poultry pit6; 10. Rabbit galantine; 10. Rabbit

meat preparing Pork meat pork butchery. butchery. Pork pigs, and preparing pigs, and controlled controlled pork was the Roman Roman of the in the the time time of ways in prepared in in several several ways was prepared empire, and spices and it with salt, salt, spis mixing it by mixing was preserved by empire, and was aromatics. Mortadellas, salamis and specialiall the ltalian specialiand ail the Italian ties time, at that that time, names at other names probably made made under under other were probably ties were

today. are made made today. as they they are way as same way less in in the the same more or or less but more but udder and the the udder uterus and were the the uterus appreciated were Particularly appreciated Particularly and of smalI small and Varieties of to breed. breed. Varieties began to animal began the animal before the before and tomacula, and tobelli, tomacula, called large sa sausages large usages ca lied farcimina, farcimina, tobelli, tables. Roman tables. on Roman appeared on also appeared tomacina also tomacina

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More products: charcuterie Morecharcuterie Products : pie; Bayonne pAt6; meat Small ham 1.l.Rolled harn; 2. Knuckle of harn; 3. Rolled haro; 4. Trotters Sainte-Menehoud; 5. Parisian pt; 6. 6. Veal and barn pt; 7. 7. Smalt rneat pie; 8. 8. Bayonne pit6; veal and Rolledsmoked smoked ham; 2. Knuckle of ham; 3. Rolled ham;4. Trotters Sainte-Menehoud; 5. Parisian knuckle ofharn (Larousse) (I-arousse) knuckle of ham

203 203

CHARD CHARD
'This art preserved during of charcuterie charcuterue was art of was preserved during the Middle the Middle 'This Ages in in France, France, but bttthe mdtier ofpork butchery was was for of pork butchery for aalong long the me'tier Ages time confused confused with with that that of cuisinier-oyer which, of cuisinier-oyer which, in in the the time fourteenth century, century, comprised comprised two two categories: categories: that that of of the the fourteenth chaircutiers and (roasting chefs). and that that of of the the rostisseurs rostisseurs (roasting chefs). In In chaircutiers 1476, the the chaircutiers chaircutiers obtained pork obtained the monopoly of the monopoly of selling selling pork 1476, meat, cooked (only fat cooked or pork in or raw raw (only fat pork in the latter case), the latter case), but but they they meat, were not not allowed allowed to pigs themselves to kill kill the the pigs themselves and and had had to to buy buy were pork meat meat from from the butcher. the butcher. pork 'The statutes statutes of of 17 l7 January January 1475 1475 recognised recognised the sole rights the sole rights 'The of the the chaircutiers-saucissiers chaircutiers-saucissiers boudiniers boudiniers to pork meat to sell sell pork meat of prepared in either cooked cooked or or prepared in the the form form of of cervelas, cervelas, sausages, sausages, either (U.S. blood) black (U.S. puddings etc.' (Franklin). ln blood) puddings etc.' (Franklin). In the the sixteenth sixteenth black century they they finally finally obtained obtained the the right right to pigs themto kill kill the the pigs themcentury selves. An An order order of of 26 26 March March 1664 1664 forced forced them them to to buy buy their their selves. pigs at at a a distance distance of of 21 2l leagues leagues from from Paris, Paris, a a decree decree which which pigs has not not been been in in force foroe since since the creation of the creation ofthe stockvards in in the stockyards has the city city itself. itself. the jambons (ham All Parisians Parisians know know the (ham the famous famous foire aux jambons Ali foire aux fair) which is is he held on the the boulevard Richard-Lenoir Richard-Lenoir before before fair) Id on Holy Week. Week. The The !ittle little stalls stalls are are laden laden for for days days with with ail all the the Holy charcuterie specialities specialities from from the provinces, and the French French provinces, and charcuterie even from from abroad. abroad. Auvergne Auvergne and and Lorraine Lorraine dominate dominate with with even their concentration concentration of of sausages, puddings, pts, p&tis, etc. sausages, hams, hamso puddings, etc. their This fair fair dates dates from from the remote past, past, and the remote and is is said said to to have have This in front front of begun in Notre-Dame. of Notre-Dame. begun Dietetically speaking, speaking, opinion opinion is is divided divided about about charcharDietetically cuterie. Sorne Some things rillettes, brawn, things brawn, andouilles, andouilles, black cuterie. black - rillettes, pudding, etc. etc. are inclined inclined to to be indigestible, and be indigestible, and even pudding, even - are poor quality. On toxic if if of po On the the other other hand, hand, lean lean charcuterie charcuterie or quality. toxic cooked or raw ham, as cooked ham, dried dried sausage, sausage, etc. etc. have definite have definite such as nutritional value. value. The virtue of charcuterie charcutene is is that nutritional that it it excites excites the appetite since since the the spices spices that that it it contains contains encourage the encourage the the juices. It secretion of saliva and gastric gastric juices. It has no no harmful harmful effects secretion effects if eaten in in moderation. moderation. if 'Grandechampagne champagneincludes includesthe thewhole whole of ofthe thecanton cantonof 'Grande of part of Segonzac,and andpart of the the Cognac Cognaccanton canton south Segonzac, southof the of the Charente river. river. Charente 'The brandy brandy of ofthis thisregion regionis prototype of isthe theprototype 'The ofthe thebrandies brandies of Charente; Charente; it it is ischaracterised characterised by verydelicate delicatearoma, of byaavery aroma, recalling the gentle perfume perfume of the gentle of the vine in recalling thevine inftower, flower, and andby byaa vigorous and and full full savour savourwhich which creates prolonged and vigorous creates prolonged and pleasurable sensations sensations when whentasted. tasted. This Thisbrandy pleasurable brandy is iswarm warm without burning palate, and burning the the palate, andits without itscolour, ifitit has colour,if agedin hasaged in an ideal ideal situation, palegold. situation, is isaavery very pale gold. an 'Petite champagne champagne encloses encloses the 'Petite theGrande Grande champagne champagnein inaa half-circle.It It is is bounded bounded on half-circle. on the the north north by bythe thecourse course of ofthe the Charente, between between Mosnac Mosnac and andMerpins; Charente, Merpins; to to the the east east by byaa line running running from from Mosnac !ine Mosnac to to Barbezieux; Barbezieux; on onthe thesouth southby by the road road running running from from Barbezieux the Barbezieux to toJonzac; Jonzac; and andon on the the west by by the the course course of west of the the river river Seugne, Seugne,from from Jonzac Jonzac to to Beillant. Beillant. 'The brandies brandies of 'The of this this region, region, without great without having having the thegreat finesse of of those finesse those of of Grande Grande champagne, champagne,approach approach them toaa them to certain degree, particularly in degree, particularly certain in the the bordering bordering vineyards. vineyards. 'The Borderies, 'The Borderies, as as the the name name implies, implies, form form aaseries of !ittle little series of hills hills along along the the banks banks of of the the Charente, from Cognac Charente, from Cognac to to Chrac, and stretch Ch6rac, and stretch northwards northwards as as far far as as the the heights heightsof of Saint-Sulpice and Menac. Menac. This This borders Saint-Sulpice and plain of thevast vast plain borders on on the of the the Pays-Bas. Pays-Bas. 'The Borderies produce good 'The Borderies produce good brandies brandies with with aroma, aroma, aa certain certain finesse finesse and and a a full full body. body. They They are are less less mellow mellow than than the the Champagne Champagne brandies, brandies, but but have have more more body. body. The The Fin-bois Fin-bois and and Bons-bois Bons-bois surround preceding surround the the three three preceding areas pentagon whose areas in in the the form form of of a a pentagon whose upper angle touches upper angle touches Saint-Jean-d'Angly, Saint-Jean-d'Ang6ly, and and whose whose limits limits are are tbe the road road from from Saint-Jean-d'Angly Saint-Jean-d'Ang6ly to to Angoulme; Angoul6me; the the line line of of the railroad the railroad from Angoulme to from Angoulme to Chalais; Chalais; a a !ine line drawn drawn from from Chalais Chalais to to Montendre; Montendre; the the road road from from Montendre Montendre to to Saujon; Saujon; and and aa line line running running from from Saujon Saujon to to Saint-Jean-d'Angly. Saint-Jean-d'Ang6ly. 'The 'The Bois Bois brandies a smooth quality, but brandies have have a smooth quality, but compared compared with with those those of of Champagne Champagne they they are are soft, soft, with with less less finesse, finesse, and pleasures to and offer offer briefer palate. briefer pleasures to the the palate. 'All 'All the the other other vineyards vineyards of of Charente and the proCharente and the islands islands produce (From duce ordinary ordinary brandies, brandies, but but worthy worthy of imbibing.' (From of imbibing.' les gastronomiques by les Dissertations Dissertations gastronomiques by Ernest Ernest Verdier.) Verdier.) Not Not only must the the brandies only must brandies of of the the Charente Charente area area come come from from the areas defined the areas defined in in the the accompanying in order accompanying map map in order to to have the the right right to a Cognac label, but to a Cognac label, the wines wines on which but the on which they they are are based must derive derive from based must from the the following following vine-stocks: vine-stocks: Smillon, S6millon, Folle-blanche, Colombac, Colombac, Blanc Blanc rain, rain6, Juranon Jurangon blanc, blanc, Montils Montils and and Sauvignon. Sauvignon.
CHARLEMAGNE Y. (Saint) CHARLEMAGI{E (Saint) See FESTIVE FESTIVE COOKER COOKERY. - See

Chard

Charlolle Charlotte mould mould (Dehillerin. (Dehillerin. Phot. Phot. Larousse) Iarousse)

CHARD. CHARD.

(See BEETCARDE - Old Old name for for white beet. beet. (See cARDE

ROOT.)

CHARENTE - Name famous for its magnificent magnificent brandies CHARENTE known as Cognac. Cognac. They are made from the wines produced known in the the dCpartemenr dpartement of Charente-Maritime. Charente-Maritime. in Eaux-de-vie of Charente. Charente. EAUx-DE-vrE EAUX-DE-VIE DEs DES cHARENTEs CHARENTES Eauxde-vie The general general classification classification of the the wines wines of the the Charente The region is is arranged arranged in in the the following following order: order: region Grande champagne, champagne, Petite Petite champagne, Borderies, FinsGrande bois, Bons-bois, Bons-bois, Bois Bois ordinaires, ordinaires, and and Bois du terroir. bois,
204 2M

- Two CHARLOTTE Two kinds kinds of of dessert dessert are are known known by the by the name of charlotte. charlotte. One, One, charlotte aharlotte russe, prepared with russe, is is prepared with (q.v.) which Bavarian cream creiln (q.v.) which is plain mould is set set in in a a plain mould lined lined round the side the bottom side and and at at the bottom with with sponge sponge fingers, fingers, and and served cold. cold. The other, fruit fruit charlotte served The other, (and particularly particularly charlotte (and

CHARTREUSE CHARTREUSE
apple applecharlotte,whichseems charloue, which seemsto to have havebeen beeo the thefirst first of ofits itskind) kind) is is made made with wilh a a confection confection of offruit fruit in in a a mould mould lined lined with with thin thin slices slices of of buttered butlered bread, bread, usually usually served served hot' hot. Carme Carme invented invented the the charlotte char/olte russe russe at at his his own own establishestablishment ment in in Paris. Paris.

COLD CHARLOTTES FRoIDES FROIDES COLD CHARLOTTES. CHARLOTTES. cnlnrorrEs Charlotte Charlotte I la la Chantilly Chantilly - Use Use a a straight-sided straight-sided mould. mould.

Cut Cut several several sponge sponge fingers fingers into into triangles triangles and and line line the the bottom bottom of of the the mould mould in in a a rosette rosette formation formation with with a a sponge sponge finger finger cut eut into ioto a a circle circle in in the the centre. centre, Trim Trim the the ends ends and and sides sides of of more more sponge sponge fingers fingers and and set set them them in in the the mould, mould, upright, upright, well weil pressed pressed together together one one against against the the other. other. Whisk Whisk 6 6 dl. dl. (l (1 pint, pint, 2] cups) cups) thick thick fresh fresh cream cream (kept on on ice ice or or in in a a cold cold place until the the moment moment of of beating). The cream cream must must be be so 50 firm that that it it has has the the consistency consistency of whisked whisked egg whites. whites. Mix 125 g.(4I g. (4~ oz.,l oz., 1 cup) cup) fine fine sugar sugar with with the cream cream and and I1 Mix 125 tablespoon tablespoon vanilla vanilla sugar sugar or or a a few few drops drops vanilla vanilla extract. extract. Spoon the the cream cream into into the the mould, mould, and and turn out at at once. once. la la parisienne parisienne (Carme's (Carme's recipe) recipe) - 'Take 'Take 175 175 g. g. Charlotte I (6 oz.) sponge fingers fingers which which are frosted frosted on one side, and and a a packet packet of green green pistachio pistachio biscuits. biscuits. Cut the the latter latter into into thin thin ilices slices and and then then into ioto diamond shapes, 3* 3t cm. cm. (1 inches) inches) long. long. Make Make a double double star star with them them in the the bottom bottom of a plain plain octagonal mould. Then, Then, using the the sponge fingers cut eut into inte ,suitable suitable shapes, fill fi1l the bottom of the mould. mou Id, With With the the rest rest sides of line the the sides of the the mould; mould,' setting seUng of the sponge fingers line them upright and close close together. Take Take care care to to place place the the frosted fresled side against the mould. (see 'Fill the 'Fill the charlotte charlotte with wlh Vanilla VaniIJa Bavarian Bavarian ueam cream (see and cover the BAVARIAN BA VARIAN CREAM) and the cream with with sponge sponge minutes later 40 minutes and 40 Surround it with broken fingers. Surround broken ice, ice, and tater fingers. a silver dish.' it out onto a turn il way as as same way in the the same plombidres - Prepared Prepared in Charlotte plombires Charlotte filling of of (see below), a filling with a charlotte (see Vanilla ice cream char/olle Vanilla ce cream below), with (see ICE ICES)' AND ICES), ICE CREAM CREAM AND ueam (see ice cream Plombiires Plombires ce with sponge sponge a mould mould with nrss Charlotte russe - Line the bottom of a with sponge sponge sides wllh hearts, form of he cut into the fonn fingers eut arts, and the sides sides. and sides. ends and at the the ends trimmed at have been been trimmed which have fingers which fingcrs mould, pressed of the the mould, inside of round lhe the inside these upright round Place these (l inch) above cm. (1 2l cm. projecting a about well together, together, and projecting weJl bout 2t top. the top, the (q.v.). Place in the Place in the crecan (q.v.). Bavarian cream with Bavarian charlotte with Fill the the charlotte Fil! out. turned out. to be be turned until ready 10 refrigerator untiJ difcream of of difBavarian cream with B(lvarian filled with can be fillee! russecan Charlotte russe flavours. ferent flavours. ferent ,c, LA rA' crlc6n cHARLorrE GLACE charlotte. CHARLOTTE cream charlotte. ice cream Vanilla ice Vanilla as fingers as sponge fingers with sponge mould wlth charlotte mould the charlotte Line the vANILLE -- Line VANILLE in the the preceding recipe. described in described with a a ice or or with vanilla ice with vanilla before serving fill the mould with Just before Just ICES). (see TCE AND TCES). ICE CREAM CREAM AND a Bombe (see filling for for a vanilla filling vanilla flavourings various flavourings of various ice cream cream of with ice filled with Iced charlottes charlottes fil!ed lced way. prepared in same way. in the the same can be be prepared can

(l|

lotte before turning turning it il out, out, so so that thal the the lotte for for a a few few minutes before apple settles. Serve with apricot sauce. sauce. pears, Charlottes can cao be be prepared in in the the same same way way with with quinces, quinces, apricots, apricots, peaches, peaches, plums. plu ms. The The consistency consistency of the the fruit fruit must must be be kept kept very very stiff; stilf; if if too too liquid, Iiquid, it it would would soften sonen turned when disintegrate would the the bread bread and and the the dessert dessert wou Id disintegrate when turned out out of of the the mould. mould, Charlottes Charlottes can can also also be he filled filled with with a a fruit fruit filling fiHing and and with with (see French French pastry paslry crecon cream or or with with Frangipane Frangipane pastry paslry cream cream (sec CREAM). CREAM). Schaleth Schaleth d la lajuive juive is is also also a a kind kind of of charlotte. charlotte. Line Line a a castcastcooked fill with paste, and noodle with cocotte iron lIOn cocolte witb noodle paste, and fill with cooked apple, apple, sultanas, sultanas, currants currants and and raisins. raisins. Moisten Moisten with with Malaga Malaga wine, wine, and and bind bind with with eggs. eggs. (See (See SCHALETH') SCHALETH.) RIz AU DE PoMMES Apple Apple charlotte charlotte with with rice. riee. cHARLorrE CHARLOTTE DE POMMES AU RIZ Sprinkle Sprinkle a a thickly thickly buttered buttered charlotte charlotte mould mould with with dried dried breadcrumbs, Dessert rice rice (see (see RICE), RICE), I 1 cm. cm. breadcrumbs, add add a a layer layer of of Dessert 6 (t inch) inch) thick. thick. Fill FiJI the the mould mould to 10 within within 1 1 cm. cm. (| (t inch) inch) of of the the put and rice top top with with stiff stiff apple apple filling. filling. Cover Cover with with dessert dessert rice and put Gas Mark 3) for 30 in in a a moderate moderate oven oven (160'C., (160C., 325'F., 325~F., Gas Mark 3) for 30 (q.v.). minutes. minutes. Serve Serve with with a a fruit fruit sauce sauce or or zabaglione zabaglione (q.v.). CHARQLICAN-CIilLENO (Chilean (Chllean cookery) cookery) - This This is is (lean the national dish dish of of Chile. Chile. Saut6 Saut the the charqui charqui (lean beef beef cut cul into into pieces) pieces) in in oil oil with with garlic garlic and and coarsely coarsely chopped chopped onion, onion, and and then then moisten moisten with with brown brown stock. stock. Add Add carrots, carrots, turnips, turnips, tomatoes, tomatoes, peas peas in in their theu pods, pods, pumpkin, celery, celery, green green haricots, haricots. and and pimentos pimenlos cut eut into inlo pieces. pieces. Braise, and and serve selVe in in deep deep soup soup added. potatoes can be plates. Fried plates. Fried potatoes can be added,
of Chartreux. Chartreux' CHARTREUSE-Liqueur CHARTREUSELiqueur made made bythe by the monks monks of follows: The approximate composition of The approximate of this (his liqueur is is as as f01l0ws: g' (1 lb. 320 g. g. (1 lb. 7 oz.) oz.) hyssop, (l lb. 7 oz.) oz.) balm, 6$ 640 g. 640 g. (l lb. 7 640 g. hyssop, 320 g. (a oz.) 40 g. oz.) cnnamon cinnamon bark, (11 100 g. (4 angelica leaves, oz.) angelica (! 1 oz.) leaves, 100 bark, 40 (Ltoz.) a0 g. (U oz.) saffron. (l~. oz.) mace, mace, 40 distilled for l0 Infuse for Infuse 10 days in l0 litres (9 quarts, I I quarts) distiUed then add 1200 g. (2 lb. 1l oz.) white sugar. alcohol, (hen alcohol, cabbage. partridges and and cabbage. of partridges Preparation of CHARTREUSE - Preparation CHARTREUSE variety of preparations to a a variety word applied to the word old days the In the the old ln nor cabbage. neither feathered game nor which included neither which queen of of entries which undoubtedly the queen is undoubtedly 'The chartreuse chartrease is 'The is vegetables, but but is and vegetables, roots and of roots it is is composed composed of can serve; serve; it one can one smiling that smiling and August, August, that July and perfect in May, June, June, July in May, only perfect only is renewed in nature, when everything is propitious season, season, when and propitious and renewed in nature, preparain our our preparatrouble in us to to take take fresh trouble invite us to invite and seems seems to and products.' excellent prod ofthese delicacy ofthe account of tions on on acceunt the dei icacy of these excellent ucts.' tions chaudes.) (Carme, Trair des en/res enties chaudes.) Traiti des (Carme, (CarGme's recipe) parisienne, en su4rrise la paJ'jsij~nne, I la Chartreuse Chartreuse 'Cook 8 in ,-"a,,'1."'.)';"o;;. Champagne. When they are cold, pare 8 trumes trufles in 'Cook 100 greatest length. Peel 100 length. Peel ofthe in the the direction of cut (hem them in and eut and the greatest prepared in in carrots prepared replaced hy by carrots be replaced these can can he tails -- these crayfish tails crayfish (see PARpartridge (sec of parzridge for Chartreuse Chartreuse of as for way as same way the same the PARof a a the bottom bottom of a crown on the crown on form a to form and begin 10 TRIDGE) -- and TRIDGE) place them the them on on the and place truffies and the truIDes mould. buttered mou buttered Id. Trim the Add a Greek Greek border. border. Add make a as to to make a way way as in such such a crayfish tails tails in crayfish and trimmed. trimmed' with butter butter and previously stiffened stiffened with fillets previously chicken fillets chicken form aa to farm tails to acrown crown of ofcrayfish border a ofthis on top of Set on Set this border crayfish tails the that the so that underneath, so border underneath, parallel with the crayfish border the crayfish tails. crayfish tails. with crayfish is framed framed wth Greek border border is and scatter scatter very fine/y finely and trufres very of the the truffies 'Chop the trimmings of the trimmings 'Chop withaalayer these with Cover these mould. Cover of the the mould. the bottom bottom of them on on the (hem layer (l inch) thick. Cover thick. Cover cm' (1 forcemeat 2lcm. of chicken chicken quenelle forcemeat of of withaa Blanquetteof Fill the the middle with too. FUI Greek border too. the Greek the lamb "u",,,tl~r,,:~ri,, sweetbreads; vealor or lamb BLANQUETTE); veal chicken (seeBLANQUETTE); chicken la financiire ot d la ragoittdla with aaragot game fillets; orwith fillets; or slices ofgame slices financire or la quitefilled. filled. not be beqUte should not mouldshould Themould Toulouse. The Toulouse. (5 inches) in diameter 13cm. cm.(5 forcemeat 13 'Make aacover of forcemeat coverof in diameter 'Make paper.Place Place (*inch) round of of buttered paper. onaaround thick on inch) truck cm.(1 and1I cm. and 205 205

DE fRUIT FRUIr -crlc'RlorrEs DE CHARLOTTES. CHARLOTTES FRUIT CHARLOTTES. FRUIT the bottom bottom Line the DE POMMES PoMMEs -- Line cHARLorrE DE Apple charlotte. charlotte. CHARLOTTE Apple form of of cut in in the the form bread eut of bread slices of with slices mould with charlotte mou/d of aacharlotte of with sides wth Line the the sides melted butter. butter. Line in melted and dipped dipped in hearts, and heurts, mould, as the the mould, height as same height the same in rectangles the cut in of bread slices of bread cut slices quartered apples apples 12 quartered Slice 12 in rneltee! melted butter. Slce dipped in and also also dipped and hasbeen been which has (2oz., to which g.(2 cup) butter butter to oz., tt cup) in 50 50g. andcook cook in and (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) powdered sugar, a 2 tablespoons added 2 tablespoons (3 added lemon rind or vanilla. Stir little lernon and aa little pinchof cinnamon, and ofcinnamon, pinch or spatula. When the spoonor wooden spoon with aa wooden continuously wilh continuously thickened, add 3 or 4 tableconsiderably thickened, isconsiderably mixture is apple mixture apple jam. apricot jam. spoonsapricot spoons round withaa round coverwith andcover mixture and the mixture with the mould with Fill the the mould Fill at180C. 180'C. oven at in1the Cook in inmel melted butter. Cook dippedin ofbread bread dipped of tee! butter. he oven charthecharLeave the 40minutes. minutes' Leave (350"F., Gas for35 to40 4)for 35to Mark4) Gas Mark (350F.,

CHASSELAS CHASSELAS
(stuffing side this on on top top of of the filling (stuffing the filling side down). down). To To remove remove the the this paper, put puton onit, it, for for aasecond second only, only, aa hot hot lid lid which which melts melts the paper, the butter. Join Join the the forcemeat forcemeat lid lid to to the forcemeat surround the foreemeat surround butter. point of with the the point of aa knife. knife. with 'The chartreuse chartreuse being completed, coyer being completed, cover the the top top with with aa 'The circle of paper, and of buttered put il (q.v.) for buttered paper, and put it in in aa bain-marie bain-marie (q.v.) for circle an hour hour and and aa half. half. an 'To decorate, place a decorate, plaee a ring ring of of small small white white mushrooms mushrooms on on 'To the chartreuse, chartreuse, and and in in the put a the centre centre put a rosette rosette of of 8 8 filets the filets (fowl or mignons d la Ia Conti game, according Conti (fowl or game, according to to the the nature nature mignons of the the basic ragot$ in in the basic ragot) form of the form a crescent, crescent, topped of a topped by by a a of mushroom.' mushroom.' partridgg or Charheuse of pheasant -- See of partridge, or pheasant PARTRIDGE, See PARTRIDGE, Chartreuse PHEASANT. PHEASANT. prrrrEs CHARLittle chartreuses charheuses of of larks larks t la la franaise. frangaise. PETITES cHARLittle TREUS$ OE DE MAUVIETTES MAUvrETrrs A LA r.l fRANAISE FRAN9ATsE -- Prepare Prepare in tn dariole dariole TREUSES (individual custard moulds custard mou moulds) in the the same same way way as mou Ids (individual Ids) in as partridge (see (see PARTRIDGE). Chartreuse of of par/ridge PARTRIDGE). Chartreuse The larks, larks, boned gratin forcemeal boned and and stulTed with (see stuffed with a gralin The forcemeat (see FORCEMEAT), and gras and and withfoie withfoie gras and truffies, truffies, are are rolled rolled FORCEMEAT), into a neat shape a neat shape and and set set ta to cook cook in in cabbage. cabbage. into The dariole dariole mou moulds are Iined lined with glazed carrots with glazed carrots and and The Ids are turnips eut cut into into small small balls, peas and balls, with with peas and diced green diced green turoips haricot beans beans cooked cooked in in salted salted water. water. These These vegetables haricot in alternate are disposed disposed in alternate layers and and kept in place by kept in a layer layer by a are quenelle forcemeat. of quenelle forcemeat. The The larks, larks, individually wrapped wrapped in in of placed one one in in each each mould. mould. Coyer Cover them braised cabbage, are placed quenelle forcemeat. Cook with a a quenelle pan of in a Cook in a pan of hot hot water water or with or bain-marie, in in the for 30 the oyen oven for 30 minutes. bain-marie, pour game game sauce, To serve, serve, pour sauce, made made with game stock, with ri rich stock, To ch game the birds. over the

CHATEAUBRIAND CHATEAUBRIAND -- Method Method of preparing aa beef of preparing fillet beef fillet invented invented by by Montmireil, Montmireil, chef chef to to Chateaubriand. Chateaubriand. The Thechateaubriand chateaubriand is is aa thick thick sUce taken from from the slice taken middle the middle of grilled and of the the fillet, fillet, grilled and served garnished with served garnished with chteau chdteau potatoes (q.v.) (q.v.) and pO/alOes and accompanied accompanied by chdteau sauce by chateau sauce or or barbiarnaise naise sauce. sauce. More More rarely (See rarely the the chateaubriand chateaubriand is is sauted saut6ed in in butter. butter. (See BEEF, BEEF, Chateaubriand.) Chateaubriand.) CHTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE CHATEAUNEUF-DU.PAPE -- The The red red wines wines of of ChleauChdteauneuf-du-Pape, neuf-du-Pape, a a small small commune commune in in Vaucluse, Vaucluse, enjoy enjoy a a worldworldwide wide reputation. reputation. They They are are derived derived principally principally from from the the vine vine stocks stocks Grenache, Grenache, Clairette, Clairette, Syrah Syrah and and Mourvedre. Mourvddre. They They powerful, full-bodied are are powerful, full-bodied tannie, tannic, aromatic aromatic wines wines that that age age weil. well. Sorne producers olTer Some producers offer a a full-bodied, full-bodied, aromatic, aromatic, white white Chteauneuf-du-Pape Chdteauneuf-du-Pape which which is is not not without without meri!. merit. These These wines wines have have been famous for been famous for a a long long time. time. When When Pope Pope Urban Urban X X wished wished to to transfer transfer the papal chair the papal chair from from Avignon to Avignon to Rome Rome he met with he met with a great deal a great deal of of opposition opposition from a from a number number of of Cardinals Cardinals who who did did not not wish wish to leave a to leave a part of part of the the country country producing producing such such exquisite exquisite wines. wines. CHATOUILLARD - Name CHATOUILLARDgiven to potatoes which Name given which are are eut cut with a with a special special implement into into long long ribbons ribbons and and deep deep fried. (See POTATOES.) (See POTATOES.) Cha/ouillard Chatouillard was also the was also the nickname given given to to an an expert expert chef or fri/urier. or an an excellent excellent r/issier rAfissier or friturier. CHAOURCE CHAOURCE See CHEESE. - See

CHASSELAS vine stock stock considered considered to provide CHASSEI"AS provide - Species of vine grapes. the best dessert grapes. The fame of the is eSlablished established The fame of the Fontainebleau Fontainebleau Chasselas is everywhere. 11 It is that it originally imported everywhere. is believed believed that it was was originally into area around around Thomery from Switzerland in in the into the the area from Switzerland sixteenth century. century. The The introduction of Chasselas sixteenth introduction of Chasselas into inlo goes back Switzerland itself Switzerland itself goes back to to the the Roman Roman conquest by Julius Caesar. The Chasselas vines have always been grown grown in Turkey. in Turkey. Only Only the the white white variety, variety, or or the the ros6 ros or or violet violet varieties (obtained (obtained by by careful careful selection and and budding), are are known, known, despite the fact fact that in in their wild wild state all ail vines have black black grapes. The Chasselas vine stock is found in in Switzerland, Switzerland, grapes. The Savoy Pouilly-sur-Loire in the Nidvre. Nivre. (The appellation Savoy and Pouilly-sur-Loire Pouilly Pouilly Fum6 Fum is is reserved reserved for for Sauvignon wines.) The wine produced produced from from the Chasselas grape is light light and fruity, rruity, best best drunk drunk young young and slightly chilled. chilled. CHASSEUR (A ( LA) - Method Method of preparation preparation applied applied to small pieces pieees of of meat, meat, fowl fowl or eggs eggs which which is is characterised by by a a garnish garnish of of sliced, sliced, saut6ed sauted mushrooms, mushrooms, flavoured flavoured with with shallots shallots and moistened moistened with with white white wine. wine. (See (See BEEF. BEEF, ZourTournedos nedos chasseur.\ chasseur.) CHASSE CHASSE ROYALE ROYAI"E -- Roast Roast composed composed of of various various game game arranged arranged in in a a pyramid pyramid on on a a large large dish. dish.

rib rib of of beef. beef.

CHATEAU CHTEAlJ (Steak, (Steak, potatoes, potatoes, sauce) sauce) - Name Name given given to to a a rather rather thick thick slice sliee of of porterhouse porterhouse steak steak (sirloin (sirloin uppercut), uppercut), weighing weighing 800 800 e. g. to to I1 kg. kg. (l| (1 to to 2+ 2i lb.), lb.), or or a a slice sliee cut eut from from a a

This of meat, meat, which which in in restaurants restaurants is is called c.alled entrec|te en/recole This piece pieee of chkteau, chteau, is is generally generally grilled. grilled.

The The name name also also applies applics to to potatoes potatoes cut eut into into long long strips strips and and cooked cooked in in butter butter (see (see POTATOES) POTATOES) and and in in restaurants restaurants Chateaubriand Chateaubriand sauce sauce is is sometimes sometimes abbreviated abbreviated to to Chdteau Chteau sauce. sauce.
206 206

CHAUD-FROID CHAUD-FRom Preparation of game whieh of fowl fowl or or game which is - Preparation cooked as as a a hot dish, but but served served cold. Phil6as Gilbert Philas Gilbert says says that that the the chaud-froid chaud-froid originated originated at the 1759, and the Chteau Ch0teau Montmorency in in 1759, and Ihat that it it was was given ils name name by by the mar6chal marchal de Luxembourg himself. its de Luxembourg 'The mar6chal 'The marchal de had invited a de Luxembourg Luxembourg had a large and and evenbrilliant assembly to his castle at at Montmorency that evening. ing. His table was famous as as one best in the French one of the best kingdom. While While waiting waiting for for grace grace to to be be said, kingdom. said, a a valet arrivai ofa royal courier, courier, bearer bearer ofa message message announced the arrival to the the mardchal marchal requiring his his immediate immediate presence at at the the to king's counci!. council. 'There was instant instant dismay; dismay; disappointment disappointment showed itself every face. But the the mar6chal marchal commanded that his his absence absence on every banquet, and left. lef!. should in no way delay the serving of the banquet, 'The 'The guests guests took their their places places at the the table table in in an an atmosphere atmosphere of constraint, uneasy uneasy in the absence of their host, host, and only only of paying paying distracted distracted attention to the dishes dishes served served with with ununaccustomed accllstomed haste. haste. 'The 'The mar6chal marchal returned returned very very late laie and and imperiously imperiously dedemanded to to be be served, served, but but he he only wanted a a single dish, dish, a a manded fricasse of chicken embalmed embalmed in in its its ivory-coloured ivory-coloured sauce sauce fricassie which the the famished mar6chal marchal tasted tasted with with pleasure. pleasure. Nothing Nothing which remains so firmly firmly in in the the mind mind as as a a dish dish which which has has been been enenremains joyed, joyed. and and some sorne days afterwards afterwards the the mar6chal marchal expressed expressed the wish wish for for the the succulent cold cold fricassde fricasse to to be be served served again. again. the 'The 'The dish dish was was presented presented under un der the the name name refroidi, refroidi, but but this this name name displeased displeased the the mar6chal marchal who who insisted insisted that that it it should should appear on on the the menu menu under under the the name name of of chaud-froid) chaud-froid.' appear is also also written written but but it it is is ininChauds-froids - (Chaufroids (Chaufroids is Chauds-froids correct) are are in in fact fact chicken chicken fricassies fricasses or or salmis salmis of of game game correct) served cold, eold, covered coved with with their their gravy gravy and glazed, glazed with with aspic. aspic. served They are are served served with with the the appropriate appropriate chaud-froid chaud-froid sauce They and and glazed glazed with with a a clear clear aspic aspic jelly. jelly. Recipes for for chwds-froirly chauds-froids of ofchicken, chic ken, pheasant, pheasant, partridge, partridge, Recipes quails, quails, thrushes, thrushes, will will be be found found under under these these headings. headings. Here is is Carme's Carme's recipe recipe for for chaud-froid chaud-froidof ofchicken chicken in in aspic. aspic. Here Chaud-froid of of chicken chirken in in aspic aspic (Car6meos (Carme's recipe). recipe). cHAUDCHAUDChaud-froid

CHEESE CHEESE
Prepare a a courtcourt' Fish soup. soup. Prepare CHAUDRE DE FOURAS CHAUDREE DE - Fish piece and white wine, wine, a a pie of butter butter and bouillon with with herbs, herbs, white ce of bouillon seasoning. seasoning. Cut various fish conger eel, whiting, sole, plaice, raiteau, - conger pieces. etc. etc. - into pieces. put into First put firm fish fish such such as into the the court-bouillon court-bouillon the the firm First less firm firm fish. fish. Boil few minutes later add add the the less conger eel. eel. A few fish and the the fish for 15 minutes. minutes. Add butter. Serve Serve the the soup soup and for 15 Add butter. separately. separately.
used copper cauldron, cauldron, used CHAUDRON (Cauldron) Small copper CHAUDRON - Small for for cooking. and confit de porc (preserved goose and pork) Confit d'oie and are cooked cooked in in this copper cauldrons Untinned copper are this utensil. utensil. Untinned jams and and preserves. may also also be for home-made home-made jams may be used used for

CHAUMONT See CHEESE. CHEESE. - See

CHAYOTECHA VOTE - See CUST ARD MARROW. MARROW. CUSTARD

Chaud-froid presented on a dish; behind, the three-tiered plinth ofpoultry presented a disb; Chaud-froid ofpoultry made made of of breadcrumb breadcrumb on which it is mounted

lightly singed - 'After having lightly for 5 fine soak them them for and soak cut them them up up and fine farmyard farmyard chickens, cut 2 hours in in lukewarm Drain them, plunge them into lukewarm water. Drain cold water, and put them in a pan with enough cover enough stock to coyer them completely. Boil for a and put a few minutes, then drain and them in pieces of chicken and again. Trim Trim the the pieces in cold cold water water again. saut a heat. Sprinkle with a a moderate heat. in butter over a saut6 them in !ittle pour in in the the strained strained to saut, then pour little flour, flour, continue continue to saut6, then stock. a bouquet of little nutmeg, a with salt, salt, a a !ittle season with Stir, season stock. Stir, parsley, ions, thyme, 2 onions parsley, spring onions stuck thyme, bay, bay, basil, basil, 2 spring on onions, with 2 cloyes, the boil to the peeled mushrooms. Bring to 12 peeled cloves, and and 12 and Remove the the minutes. Skim Skim carefully. carefully. Remove and simmer for 30 30 minutes. simmer for pieces pieces of chicken with a perforated spoon, spoon, draining them, with a and place in in a a covered covered casserole. and place 'Boil remove from from 'Boil down the to a a good consistency, consistency, remove the sauce to yolks. Return the heat, and later add add 5 egg yolks. the Return the the heat, and 2 2 minutes later 5 egg pan pan to the all the the beat, heat, stirring ail the time, time, until until the the sauce sauce almost reaches is cold pour onereaches the boil, then sieve it. it. As soon as as it is third you shake once or into the third into the fricasse, or twice and fricassie, which you set in the for 30 crushed ice. ice. Arrange Arrange the the dish dish in the set for 30 minutes on on crushed following manner: 'Place 'Place the in the the form form of a a crown crown on on the legs legs of the the chickens chickens in the place the the entre entrie dish. dish. In In the the middle, middle, place above the wings, wings, and and above the legs noses and put the parsons'noses legs put and the On top top of of the parsons' the breasts. breasts. On these put the as close close together as as possible. these put the fillets, fillets, as 'As much height as entrie, as possible should be be given to this entre, which in which should crowned with with a a fine fine truffie truffie cooked cooked in should be be crowned Champagne, cock's comb. comb. Champagne, and and topped with a a white double cock's 'Work (* cup) lukewarm cup) lukewarm 'Work the tablespoons (t 4 tablespoons the sauce sauce with with 4 Aspic jelly (see (see ASPIC) very smooth make it it very which should make ASPIC) which and (removing the and thick. Coyer the surface surface of the the fricasse Cover the fricassie (removing truffie piece with replaced). Surround the piece truffie which which is is later later replaced). Surround the chopped in two cut in in aspic in two colours colours cut chopped aspic aspic and and a a border border of of aspic decorative shapes. (Carme, le Ie Ptissier Phtissier Then serve dish.'(Carme, serve the dish.' shapes. Then parisien.) 207 207

poul.Er FROID r-n GELE cnrEp FRoID DE DE POULET A LA

Making Beaufortin Making cheese cheese at at Beaufortin (French Governmenl (French Tourist Office) Goverwnent Tourisl Ofice)

product of curds, CHEESE. is a a product curds, drained drained CHEESE. FROMAGE FRoMAGE - Cheese is and, and, more more often not, fermented. From the the ear!iest earliest often than than not, fermented. From times in stock-rearing stock-rearing countries countries to to made in times cheese cheese has has been been made use y different are so so man many different use up up surplus milk. Nowadays, there there are kinds of cheese that no list, however however long, long, could could cJaim claim to to be no list, complete. country, every district, has has its its own own special special complete. Every Every country, every district, cheese. a deservedly high reputacheeses have have a deservedly high cheese. Many local cheeses Many local tion. produces Gruyre and Emmenthal; Gruy6re and Emmenthal; tion. Switzerland Switzerland produces England, and Stilton; ltaly, Parmesan Parmesan England, Cheshire, Stilton; ltaly, Cheshire, Cheddar and and and so so on. on. It It and Gorgonzola; Gorgonzola; Holland, Gouda Gouda and and Edam, Edam, and justly be may has so so no country country has may justly however, that that no claimed, however, be claimed, great great a as France, France, where where almost almost a variety and and range of of cbeeses cheeses as every has its its own own local local cheese. cheese. every rural rural district has The know from from The history of of cheese cheese is is a a very very ancient ancient one. one. We know the remains of enorthe Manuel de de l'Antiquit l'Antiquiti celtique celtique that that the the remains of enormous cheese draining found on on Mont Mont Beuvray. Beuvray. draining racks can be found can be The fromage persill, persilli. herb-injected The art art of makingy'ornage herb-injected cheese, cheese, of making goes goes back powcheese with with powRomans who who mixed mixed their their cheese back to to the the Romans dered de la Ia Histoire de dered thyme. thyme. Le Le Grand Grand d'Aussy d'Aussy in in his his book book Histoire vie prive (1783) says: 'Even today privie des in certain certain des Franais Frangais (1783) says: 'Even today in regions regions of a cheese cheese impregnated impregnated with with of Lorraine Lorraine they they make make a fennel fennel seeds'. seeds'.

CHEESE CHEESE Themilk milkof goats,ewes, ofcows, cows,goats, ewes,and andsometimes sometimesother other The mammals,can canbe usedskimmed, partlyskimmed, beused skimmed,partly skimmed,whole, whole,or mammals, or enrichedwith withadded addedcream. cream.Coagulation place Coagulationcan cantake takeplace enriched spontaneously, that thatisisto tosay sayby bythe thenatural naturalfermentation fermentation of spontaneously, of themilk, milk,or orititcan canbe inducedby beinduced theaddition addition of bythe certain the ofcertain vegetable juices.Most Mostoften oftenititisisbrought broughtabout aboutby vegetablejuices. bythe theaction action ofrenne rennet, curdlingagent agentextracted extractedfrom fromthe thestomachs of t, aacurdling stomachsof of young mammals. mammals. Rennet (dried Rennet may maybe usedin insolid young beused solidform form(dried (plainor fresh) or orfresh) inliquid liquidform orin form(plain orseasoned seasonedwith or withherbs). herbs). Curdlingwith with rennet rennetis iscarried carriedout outin indifferent Curdling different ways. ways.The The milk may may be left to tocurdle curdle in inco beleft milk Id surroundings, cold surroundings, when whenvery very little rennet rennetis isused. used.It Itmay maybe becurdled little curdled at ataahigher highertemperatempera(38' to ture(38 to40C., 40oC., 100 100"to 104"F.) in ture to104F.) inwhich whichcase casemore morerennet rennet isrequired. required. is The moulding mouldingof ofthe thecheese, cheese, which The which is isthe thelast laststage stagein inthe the drainage of ofthe the curds, curds, is iscarried carried out drainage outin inosier osierbaskets, baskets, or orin in pottery, wood earthenware, pottery, earthenware, wood or or tinplate tinplate moulds. moulds. These Theseare are usually covered covered with usually with aaclotho cloth. For Forsoft softcheeses, cheeses, the thecurds curdsare are carefully broken broken up put in carefully up before before being being put inthe themoulds. moulds.For For hard cheeses, cheeses, ail putting the hard all moisture moisture is isexpelled expelled by curds by putting thecurds press, or through aa press, through by draining draining them or by between two them between twoboards boards with weights weights on with on top. top. At this thisstage, process of At stage, the theprocess fermentation begins. offermentation begins.TheoretiTheoretiprocess is cally this cally this process is divided divided into into three three stages stageswhich, which,in in practice, tend practice, tend more lessto more or or less to overlap: overlap: 1. 1. The The action action of of the the ferments ferments in in the the milk milk which which attack attack (sugarof the the lactose lactose (sugar of milk) milk) and and tum turn it it into into lactic lactic acid. acid. 2. 2. The The culture culture of of fungi fungi which which appear appear on on the thesurface surface of of the quickly form the curds curds and and quickly form aa thick, thick, furry furry fungoid fungoidskin skin (known in (known in the the cheese cheese trade trade as 'white'). These as the These fungi the 'white'). fungifeed feed on lactic acid on the the lactic acid as as soon soon as it is is formed, as it formed, up up to to the the time time when when ail all the the lactose lactose has has been play aa part used. They part in been used. They also also play in the the maturing maturing of particular, it of the the curds. curds. In In particular, it is is these these fungi fungi which which give give to to certain certain cheeses cheeses their their characteristic characteristic and and much-prized much-prized bitter bitter flavour; flavour; but but their action must their action not be promust not allowed to be allowed to proceed ceed unchecked. unchecked. 3. The culture culture of 3. The of secondary secondary microbes. microbes. These These are are organorganisms isms of of various various kinds, kinds, microbes, microbes, fungi, fungi, mildew, mildew, mainly mainly red red or (known in or orange orange in in colour colour (known in the the cheese cheese trade trade as 'red'). as the the 'red'). Their Their function function is is to to inhibit, inhibit, by by co-existence, co-existence, the the too-rapid too-rapid breeding of of the the fungi fungi of 'red' of the phase. Once the second second phase. Once the the 'red' has has been formed, the been formed, the cheeses cheeses settle settle down down and and mature mature more more or quickly according or less less quickly according to to their their nature. nature.

Drainingcurds curds Draining

We also also know know that that Blanche Blanche de de Navarre Navarre sent sent 200 200 cheeses cheeses We to Philippe Philippe Auguste Auguste every year, and poet Franois every year, and that that the the poet Frangois to Villon bequeathed bequeathed in in his his famous famous will will aa talmouze, talmouze, aa kind kind of of Villon cheese souffl, souffi6, to to rus his friend friend Jehan Jehan Ragnier. Ragnier. cheese It was was the the custom custom at at the the beginning beginning of the fifteenth fifteenth century of the century It gift of to send send a a gift persons one of cheeses cheeses to to persons one admired. admired. For For example, example, to Charles d'Orlans, year 1407, d'Orl6ans, in in the the year 1407, sent 'ladies sent several several to to 'ladies Charles to whom whom he he was was attached'. attached'. In In the the sixteenth sixteenth century century Brie Brie to cheese was was considered considered the the best best of of ail. all. The The cheeses cheeses of of cheese Dauphin6, Vexin, Vexin, Auvergne, Auvergne, Switzerland, Switzerland, Holland, Holland, and and Dauphin, Italy were also very much much in also very in demand. demand. Italy Madame de de Montespan Montespan invented invented 100 100 sauces sauces using using cheese. cheese. Madame When Louis Louis XVI XVI stopped stopped at at Varennes Varennes in in need need of of refreshrefreshWhen ment he he asked asked for for wine and and cheese. cheese. ment ln 1777 1777 there there were about about thirty thirty varieties varieties that that had had made made a In a name for for themselves. Later Later Metternich Metternich gave gave a a reception reception at name at he served served ail all the French cheeses, cheeses, and and invited guests invited his his guests which he part in to take part in competitions competitions for for choosing choosing the the best. to Fresh cheeses are distinct from from other other cheeses cheeses in in not not being Fresh cheeses being fermented. They are are produced by spontaneous coagulation by spontaneous coagulation fermented. (Fromage d la pie) or coagulation coagulation with (petit-suisse). with rennet rennet (Petit-suisse). (Fromage Fermented cheeses made rnade from raw cunis curds are are of two Fermented cheeses two kinds: kinds: from raw (Brie, Coulommiers, soft cheeses cheeses (Brie, Coulommiers, Camembert, Camembert, Livarot, soft Livarot, Pont-l'Evque, etc.), etc.), and (Dutch, Cantal, and hard hard cheeses cheeses (Dutch, Pont-I'Evque, Cantal, Cheshire, Roquefort, Gorgonzola, Gorgonzola, etc.). etc.). There There are Cheshire, Roquefort, are also cheeses (Gruvbre, Emmenthal, scalded cunis curds (Gruyre, cheeses made made from from scalded Parmesan, Port-Salut, etc.). Parmesan, Port-Salut,

Cheese cellar cellar Cheese (Maison Androuit. Androut. Phot. Phot. Larousse) Larousse) (Maison Cheese shop (Nicolas) (Nrcolcs) Cheese shop

208 208

CHEESE CHEESE

r*

w
( I*doyen. Phot. Nicolas) platter (Ledoyell. Cheese Chee se platter Phal. Nicolas)

protein first-class prote a first-class is a cheese is Dietetically in speaking, cheese Dietetically speaking, rich in in It is is rich diets. It vegetarian diets. meat in in vegetarian capable of replacing meat capable of in minerai mineral and in and C, C, and 82, and A, BI, Bl, B2, proteins, proteins, fats, fats, Vitamins Vitamins A, feror ferfatty or some fatty from sorne and, apart apart from digestible and, salts. is very very digestible salts. It is constitutions. all constitutions. for ail is suitable suitable for mented varieties, is mented varieties, goes with which with which wine goes about which which wine written about Much has has been been written of taste. taste. SaintSainta matter matter of is entirely entirely a It is particular particular cheese. cheese. It this opinion opinion but this spur, but as a a drinking drinking spur, cheese as Amand described cheese Amand described of the the value of the value over-emphasise the can over-emphasise is ta ble, for for cheese cheese can is deba debatable, quality. The The its true true quality. of its impression of give a wine a false false impression and give wine and relief. into relief. them into to throw throw them cheese to require cheese great great wines not require wines do do not goats' wines suit suit goats' White wines generally best. best. White Red are generally Red wines wines are and cheese and Comte cheese cheese dishes; dishes; Comte cooked cheese milk and cooked milk cheeses cheeses and Never serve serve go very together. Never very weil well together. Chteau-Chalon wine go Chiteau-Chalon wine the great wines with cheese. cheese. wines with the great whatever of whatever cheeses of France, cheeses In France, The cheese -- ln of cheese The serving serving of (dessert). Thus Thus sweet (dessert). the sweet before the kind, served before always served kind, are are always salad or the the sai course, or main course, follow the the main they ad normally follow would normally they would and meat and after the the meat separately after if served separately should be be served if this this should vegeta bles. vegetables. plate, on aa separate separate plate, alone on served alone Each is usually usually served cheese is Each cheese board. cheese board. on aa cheese but be served served on may also also be cheeses may but cheeses asthe the time as sametime at the the same fresh butter butterat It serve fresh to serve It is is desirable desirable to as they they not, as or not, take butter butter or may take cheese. way, diners diners may In this this way, cheese. In take butter butter prefer not not to to take please. please. Generally, connoisseurs prefer Generally, connoisseurs with their cheese. cheese. with their and (U.S. crackers) kindsand various kinds of various crackers) of Savoury biscuits (D.S. Savoury biscuits With cheese. With with cheese. served with may also also be be served slices of black black bread bread may slices of cumin. toserve servecumin. isusual usualto it is certain Munster, it notably Munster, cheeses, notably certain cheeses, provide aasuitable suitable alsoprovide Fresh fennelalso or bulb bulb fennel celeryor heads of ofcelery Fresh heads accompaniment cheese. forcheese. accompaniment for the first to tothe thecheese cheese first offerthe It France to tooffer in France custom in It is is the thecustom knife theknife anddrives drivesthe itand master He examines examinesit house. He ofthe thehouse. master of
209 209

guests. This This applies applies round to to the the guests. it is is handed handed round into it it before before it into guests shy guests are always always shy for there there are whole cheeses, cheeses, for to whole especially to especially Camembert' an uncut uncut Camembert. say, an to start, start, say, reluctant to who are are reluctant who judicial precedents precedents regulate regulate and judicial decrees and Various laws, laws, decrees Various cheeses. French cheeses. given to various French to various names given the names use of of the the legal legal use the for reserved for is strictly strictly reserved for instance, instance, is Roquefort, for The name name Roquefort, The are clearly clearly area whose whose boundaries boundaries are an area from an coming from cheeses coming cheeses as Camembert, Camembert, such as cheeses, such other cheeses, case of of other In the the case laid down. down. In laid a clear clear followed by by a must be be followed name must the name and Port-Salut, Port-Salut, the Brie, and Brie, the cheese cheese which the in which district in or district dipartement or the dpartement of the indication of indication made. has been been made. has in France France made in cheeses made 400 different different cheeses least 400 are at at least There are There cheeses French cheeses appreciated French most appreciated lists the the most This section section lists alone. This alone. in are obtainable obtainable in which are cheeses which foreign cheeses many foreign as weil well as as rriany as and elsewhere. France and elsewhere. France from season from is in in season which is cheese which Belgian cheese Aettekees - Belgian AettekeesMay. to May. November to November from is in in season season from which is in Barn B6arn which made in Amou -- Cheese Cheese made Amou to May. May. November to November November from November in season from cheeseinseason Arrigny -- A A Champagne Champagne cheese Arrigny May. to May. to Novemfrom Novemseasonfrom isin inSeason which is cheese which Asco -- Corsican Corsican cheese Asco May. to May. ber to ber year. theyear. throughout the cheese eaten eaten throughout Normandy cheese Aurore -- Normandy Aurore all eaten ail andcan canbe beeaten 'cow cheese' cheese' and is ca called This is Autrm -- This AutWl lied 'cow year round. round. the year the is district is Orldanais district theOrlanais fromthe (Les) Aydes This cheese cheesefrom. Aydes -- This (Les) andJune. June. October and betweenOctober inseason seasonbetween in In Alps. In theAlps. foothillsof ofthe inthe thefoothills inProvence, Provence, in Madein Banon- -Made Banon November. May to toNovember. fromMay seasonfrom season yearround. round. allthe theyear eatenail cheese eaten Beaufort - - Savoy Savoycheese Beaufort fromOctober October isin inseason season from whichis cheesewhich Savoycheese Beaumont- -Savoy Beaumont toJune. June. to

CHEESE

CHEESE
Now[hen, then,let letus usshout shoutwith withail allour ourmight: might: Now Blessedbe bethe theland landof ofBrie. Brie. Blessed Pont-l'Ev6que, get getthee theebehiud behindus us! Pont-l'Evque, ~ Auvergneand andMilan, Milan,out outof ofour oursight. sight. Auvergne Briealone alonedeserves deservesthat thatwe we Brie Should record recordher praisesin herpraises inletters lettersof gold. ofgold. Should Gold,l Isay, say,and andwith withgood goodreason, reason, Gold, Sinceititis iswith withgold gold that thatone one must mustcompare compare Since This chee cheese towhich which 1I now now pay pay homage. homage. This se to It is yellow as isas as yellow gold worshipped as the thegold worshipped by by man, man, lt But without without its itsanxiety anxiety But For one one has has only only to press it to press it with with one's one's fingers fingers For For it it to tosplit split its its sides sideswith with laughter laughter For And run run over over with with fat. fat. And Why then, then, is is it it not not endless endless Why As indeed indeed its its circular circular form form is is endless? endless ? As Why must must its its full full moon, moon, eternally eternally appetising, appetising, Why Wanetoacrescent?... Wane to a crescent? ... The cheese cheese of of Brie Brie has has not not deterioraled deteriorated since since that that time. The time. On the the contrary, contrary, it it has has actually actually improved improved in quality and in quality and is is On now more more uniformly uniformly good, good, since since the the local local fa farmers, abannow rmers, abandoning the the old old methods, methods, use use the the ferments ferments tested tested and and recomrecomdoning mended by by the the laboratory laboratory at at La La Fert-sous-Jouarre. Fert6-sous-Jouarre. mended Brie is is fully fully ripe ripe when when the cheese cheese is ail all of of the same same texture. Brie pressure is When pressure is exerted exerted on on the the surface surface of of a a section section the When cheese should should bulge bulge but but not not run. run. Brie Brie is is made made in in various cheese sizes. A large Brie A large Brie may may be (22 inches) in be up to to 54 54 cm. cm. (22 in diamdiam. sizes. eter, a a medium Brie up (16 inches), up to to 42 42 cm. cm. (16 inches), a a small one eter, medium Brie not more than (13 inches). than 33 33 cm. cm. (13 inches). There There are dilferent different kinds not more of Brie Brie known as Briesjermiers, Bies fermiers, lailiers laitiers and and fagon Coulomof known as faon Coulommiers. miers. It gallons) to 20 litres 3] gallons) It takes takes from from 13 13 litres litres (2* (2~ gallons, gallons, 3i (4] gallons) milk 5| gallons) a cheese, cheese, according (4t gallons, gallons, 51 milk to to make a according tosize. Although some experti to size. Although whole whole milk milk is always used, sorne experts advise advise a a little little skimming skimming - bringrng bringing the the percentage percentage of of cieam cream down down to to 25 25 or or 27 27 per per cent cent - because, hecause, they they maintain, maintain, a higher higher cream Cfeam content content makes makes the the cheese cheese bitter. bitter. A good Brie Brie must must be be creamy but not not runny, runny, and should A good be be pale pale yellow yellow in in colour. colour. Brie Brie de de Meaux. Meaux. At At its its best best from from November November to to May. May. Brie Brie de de Coulommiers. Coulommiers. Smaller Smaller than than Brie Brie de de Meaux Meaux - approapproximately ximately 26 26 cm. cm. (10 (10 inches) inches) in in diameter. diameter. At At its ils best-from best from November November to to May. May. Brie Brie de de Melun. Melun. This This is is made made in in thicker thicker and and smaller smaller rounds rounds than than Brie Brie de de Meaux. Meaux. It Il is is a a special special cheese cheese with with a a much much more more pronounced saltier and pronounced aroma, aroma, being beingsaltier and more more piquant. piquant. It It is is good good all ail the the year year round. round. Brie de Meaux Briede deMontereau. Monlereau. Made Madein inthe thesame samewav wayas asBrie Briede Meaux but but is isa a smaller smallerand and deeper deepercheese. cheese. Brillat-Savarin made in in Normandy Normandy which which can can Brillat-Savarin - Cheese Cheese made be he eaten eaten all aIl the the year year round. round. Brinzen Brinzen -- Hungarian Hungarian cheese cheese made made from from fresh fresh ewes' ewes' milk, milk, mixed is dried dried for for l0 10 to to 12 12 days, days, kneaded kneaded mixed with with rennet. rennel. It It is with with 3 3per per cent cent salt, salt, then then put put into iuto drums drums and and pressed. pressed. Broccio Corsican cheese, cheese, made made from from goats' goats' milk miJk or or Broccio -- Corsican sour sour ewes' ewes' milk, milk, very very delicate, delicate, and and similar similar in in appearance appearance to toPetit-suisse. Petit-suisse.A Alarge largeproportion proportionof ofthis thischeese cheeseis isexported. exported. It Il is is eaten ealen plain, plain, in in fritters fritters or orin in ravioli ravioli and and is is in in season season between Mayand and November. November.It Itis isalso alsoused used as asaastuffing stuffingfor for between May vegetables. cakecalled ca liedFiaderu Fiadeneis is made madewith withit. il. vegetables.A Aspecial specialcake Caccio-cavallo ltaltan cheese cheese made made in in the the region region of of Caccio-cavallo -- Italian Naples Naples from from skimmed skimmed cows' cows' milk, milk, moulded moulded in in the the shape shape of ofgourds gourdsand andleft leftto 10dry drystraddled straddledon onsticks. sticks.Some SorneCaccioCacciocavallo cavallo addicts addicts are are not uot satisfied satisfied with with merely merely having having the the cheese dried,but butinsist insiston onits iL~being beingsmoke-cured smoke-curedas aswell, weIl,as as cheesedried, was the donein inthe thetime timeof of theRomans. Romans. wasdone

Boulette d'Avesnes, or Boulette de de Cambrai Cambrai - Cheese Cheese made in Flanders, in season from November to Mav. made in Flanders. in season from November to May. Brie - This cheese has a claim to nobility. As long ugo u, Brie - This cheese has a claim to nobility. As long ago as the fifteenth century, Charles ol iouis d'Orlans, father father the fifteenth century. Charles d'Orl6ans, year of Louis XII, ordered Bries by the dozen to give XII, ordered Bries by the dozen to give as as New New Year presents presents to his friends. Two centuries later, Saint Amant, the poet of the poet of to his [riends. Two centuries later, Saint Amant, good living, devoted a much-quoted ode to ,this genile;am good living, devoted a much-guoted ode to 'th.is gent le jam of Bacchus': of Bacchus':

Beaupr6 de Roybon Cheese made in the Dauphin6 which Beaupr de Roybon - -Cheese made in the Dauphin which is in season from November to April. is in season from November 10 April. Bleu d'Auvergne - A blue mould cheese which is also Bleu d'Auvergne A blue mouJd cheese which is also known under the name of BIeu de Salers and is in season known under the name of Bleu de Salers and is in season from November to May. It is usually made of a mixture of from November la May. Il is lIslially made of a mixlure of goats', ewes'and cows' milk. goats', ewes' and cows' milk. Bleu de Basillac Cheese made in the Limousin dipartethe Limousin dparteBleu de Basillac - - Cheese made in ment. lt resembles Roquefort, and is at its best between ment. It resembles Roquefort, and is at ils best between November and May. November and May. Blers frangais (French blue cheeses) - In France there are Bleus franais (French bine cheeses) - In France there are a number of these cheeses, which have something in common a number ofthese cheeses, which have something in common with Roqueforl but are less delicate in flavour. Among the with Roquefort but are less delicate in f1avour. Among the best of these are Blan d'Auvergne, made chiefly in the Montchiefly in the Montbest of these are Bleu d'Auvergne, made Dore district; Fourme d'Ambert, Grand bornant, and, Th\nes Dore district; Fourme d'Ambert, Grand bornant, and Thnes of the Haute-Savoie; the Blue cheese Gex, made from cows, of the Haute-Savoie; the Blue cheese Gex, made from cows' milk in the Ain dipartement; Champolion from the eueyras milk in the Ain dparlemenl; Champo/on from the Queyras (in the High Alps); Saint-Marcellin and Sassenage, made (in the High Alps); Saint-Marcellin and Sassenage, made in the Isdre district; Septmoncel,made in the Jura mountains. in the Isre district; Septmoncel, made in the Jura mounlains. According to the producers of Roquefort, cows' milk According to the producers of Roquefort, cows' milk cheeses and Roquefort are two distinct categories of cheeses. of cheeses. cheeses and Roquefort are two distinct categories Persill{ is the term used for Roquefort and, bleu the term term Persill is the tcrm used for Roquefort and bleu the used for other veined cheeses. However, the,persilli, of the used for other veined cheeses. However, the 'persill' of the Aravis is allowed. Aravis is allowed. Blue cheeses frm other lan6 A great many blue cheeses Blue cheeses from olher lands -- A great many blue cheeses are made outside France. They include blue Tyrolem from are made outside France. They include blue Tyrolean from Rastadt; Cabrales from the Asturias; Portuguese CastelloRastadt; Cabra/es from the Asturias; Portuguese Caslel/obranco; Sarrazin from Sarraz in Switzerland: Stilton from branco; Sarrazin from Sarraz in Switzerland; SI ilion from England; the Italian Stracchino which has something in England; the Italian Siracchino which has something in common with Gorgonzola. common with Gorgonzola. Bo-ndon - Variety of cheese which is made in Normandy, Bnndon - Variety of cheesc which is made in Normandy, mostly around Rouen. It is a whole-milk, small,loaf-shaped mostly around Rouen. Il is a whole-milk, small, loaf-shaped cheese, rather like Gournay in texture, but with 2 per Cent but with 2 per cent cheese, rather like Gournay in texture, sugar added. It is about 7l cm. (3 and 4 4 to 5 cm. sugar added. Il is about 7i cm. (3 inches) inches) high high and to 5 cm. (l| to 2 inches) in diameter. (l1- to 2 inches) in diameter. Bosson macer6 - French cheese made in provence, which Bosson macr French cheese made in Provence, which is in season from December to March. is in season from December to March. Bouille Cheese made in Normandy, which is in @a) (La) Bouille - Cheese made in Normandy, wh.ich is in season between October and Mav. season between October and May. Boule de Lille - Dutch cheese, known in Holland under Boule de Lille - Dutch cheese, knowll in Holland under the name of Oude Kaas, which can be eaten all the year round. the name of OuLie Kaas, which can be eaten al! the year round.

Boulette d'Avesneg

or Boulette

Sus! qu' plein gosier on on s'icrie: s'crie: Biny soit Ie tetitoire de Brie. Bny soil le territoire de Brie, Pont-l'Evdque, arriire de nous! Pont-/'Evque, arrire de nous' Auvergne et Milan, cachez-vous. Auvergne el Milan, cachez-vous. C'est luy seulement qui mirite C'est luy seulement qui mrile or sa gloire soit Qu'en Qu'en or sa glOire soil escrite; escrile; Je dis en or avec raison, Je dis en Or avec railOn, qu' Puis il fe ro i t c ompar a ison Puisqu'ilferoil comparaison De ce fromage que j'honore De ce fromage que j'honore A ce mdtal que l'homme que l'hommeadore: adore: A ce m/al II est aussi jaune que luy; Il eSI aussi jaune que luy; Toutefois ce n'est pas d'ennuy, Toulefois ce n'est pas d'ennuy, Car, si tost que le doigt Ie presse, si 10SI que le doigt le presse, IlCar, rit et se crdve de gresse . . . Il rit el se crve de gresse ... Hd! pourquoy n'est-il Wny li! pourquoy n'est-il infiny Tout aussi bien en sa matiire TOUl aussi bien en sa matire l'estoit en sa forme efiidre ? Qu'il Qu'il l'e5/Oii en sa forme entire? Pourquoy tousjours s' apet issant, Pourquoy tousjours s'apelissant, De lune devient-il croissant? . . . De lune devient-il croissant? ...

Sus ! qu'd plein gosier

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CHEESE CHEESE
Camembert Camembert -A A soft soft cheese, cheese, invented, invented, or or rather rather perfected, perfected, in in about about the the year year 1790 1790 by by a a local local farmer's farrner's wife, wife, Mme Mme Harel, Harel, in grateful grateful memory, memory, a a statue statue has has been been erected. erected. to whom, whom, in to Good Good quality quality Camembert Camembert is is made made from from whole whole unskimmed unskimmed milk. The cheese chee se is is made made mainly mainly in in the the winter winter by by a a process process milk. The manufacture of ofBrie, Brie, but but the the micromicrosimilar to to that that used used in in the the manufacture similar and give give to to the the cheese cheese a a slight slight characcharacorganisms are are different different and organisms teristic bitterness bitterness which which the the makers makers attribute attribute to to the the oatoatteristic straw of of the the wicker wicker trays. trays. straw Camembert, which which is is chiefly chiefly made made in in the the regions regions of of Camembert, Vimoutiers and and Livarot, Livarot, is is disc-shaped, disc-shaped, thicker thicker and and much mucb Vimoutiers must be be pale pale yellow, yellow, smooth, smooth, smaller than than Brie. Brie. The The cheese cheese must smaller without holes, holes, and and firm. firm. without It is is made made today today all aH over over France France and and even even in in other other counIt by law law its its place place of of origin origin must must be be indicated. indicated. The tries, but but by tries, Camembert season season lasts Iasts from November November to to May' May. Camembert

Cheddar cheese

cheese Monument of Camembert Camembert cheese Harel. the the creator creator of Monument to Mme Haret, to Mme

in mixture made made in Cancoillotte cheese mixture Very strong strong cheese Cancoillotte -- Very It serving' It Franche-Comt, melted before before serving. has to to be be melted which has Franche-Comt6, which is June. to June. from September September to is in in season season from It can can be be in Auvergne. Auvergne. It made in CantaJ cheese made strong cheese Hard, strong Cantal -- Hard, good from from particularly good year round is particularly eaten round but but is whole year eaten the the whole November May. November to to May. in season season cheese, in Carr Normandy cheese, de Bonneville Bonneville -- Normandy Carr6 de between June. and June. September and between September to April to from April Chabichou in season season from cheese, in Chabichar -- Poitou Poitou cheese, and sweet. sweet. and is issoft soft and It is milk and December. goats'milk from goats' is made made from December.It its season has its season se made which bas Chaingy in Orlans Orl6ans which made in Cheese Chaingr -- Chee from to June. June. from September September to is whichis Champenois Riceys-Cendr6 which called Riceys-Cendr still called Cheesestill Champenois -- Cheese in and June. June. September and inseason season between between September district, Chaource in the the Champagne Champagnedistrict, made in This cheese, cheese, made Chaource -- This from It is isin inseason season from is toSoumaintrain. Soumaintrain. It similar to issomewhat somewhat similar November November to to May. May. which Chaumont - Cheese regionwhich Champagne region in tbe made in theChampagne CharmtontCheese made is November to toMay. May. from November isin inseason season from

year round. round. all the the year eaten ail cheese eaten English cheese Cheddar Cheddar - English in two two made in cheese made English cheese milk English Hard, cows' cows' milk Chechire Cheshire - Hard, year round. round. the year all the eaten ail It can can be be eaten white. It red and and white. colours: col ours : red in is known known in cheese is Cheshire cheese which Cheshire Name by by which Chester - Name France. France. is goats' milk which is milk which from goats' made from cheese made Bresse cheese Chewet Chevret - Bresse to April. APril. December to from December in season season from in of dried dried It is is made made of produced in in Savoy. Savoy. It Cheese produced ChewotinChevrotin - Cheese The December. The to December. March to from March is in in season season from and is goats'milk goats' milk and Bourin Bourmade in little cheeses cheeses made are little Moulins are de Moulins Chevrotins de Chevrotins bonnais. Mdconnais, called Mconnais, also called Cheese, also Micon -- Cheese, de Mcon Chewotton de Chevrotton to September. September. May to from May in season is in season from that is that Foix de Foix in tbe Comt6 de the Comt made in Cheese made de Luchon Luchon -- Cheese Cierp de Cierp May. to May. November to from November is in in season season from which is which year round. round. all tbe the year eaten alI can be be eaten which can cheese which Jura cheese Comt6Comt - Jura cream soft cream of soft category of into the the category This cornes comes into Coulommiers -- This Coulommiers neighbourhood in the the neighbourhood district in Brie district in the the Brie is made made in It is cheeses. It cheeses. (Seine-et-Marne), and its best best between between is at at its and is of Coulommiers Coulommiers (Seine-et-Marne), of and May. May. November and November after salting. salting. fresh, after eaten fresh, usually eaten are usually cheeses are Coulommiers cheeses Coulommiers kept to say, say, kept is to that is Brie, that processed like like Brie, also be be processed may also They may They white mould. mould. with white are covered covered with they are until they until with aa crust with white crust have aa white must have good Coulommiers A good Coulommiers must A and slightly slightly touch, and to the the touch, creamy to greyish tinge, be creamy tinge, be slight greyisb sligbt yellowish inside. inside. yellowish are several several There are m CRME cntw -- There A LA FRoMAcE cheese. FROMAGE Cream cheese. Cream to the the cream to add sorne somecream is to to add One is cheese. One making this this cheese. ways of of making ways it make it is to to make another is rennet,another the rennet, introducing the milk before before introducing milk draining after draining cream after fresh cream with fresh worked witb milk worked from skimmed skimmed milk from drainage. the drainage. complete the tocomplete put into into mou moulds and put Ids to and inseason cheese in season creamcheese soft cream Alsatiansoft des Vosges Vosges-- Alsatian Crdme des Crme and April. April. November and betweenNovember between cheese goats' milk milk cbeese Semi-hard goats' de Chavignol Chavignol-- Semi-hard Crottin de Crottin December. to December. May to from May inseason isin seasonfrom which is inBerry, Berry, which madein made below. cheese below. Nantais cheese SeeNantais Cur6-- See Cur good France,good northem France, in northem made in Cheese made Dauphin -- Cheese Dauphin MaY. andMay. November and betweenNovember between year allthe theyear eatena1l which can can be beeaten cheesewhich Nivernais cheese Decizn -- Nivernais Decize Brie. resembles Brie. It resembles round.It round. somewhat cheese somewhat softcbeese whole-milk soft Smallwhole-milk Demi-sel - - Small Demi-sel drained, beingdrained, afterbeing Thecurd, curd,after double-cream. The todouble-cream. similar to similar

2ll 211

CHEESE CHEESE
sieved and put in moulds, has I to l* per cent salt added sieved and put in moulds, has 1 to 1t per cent salt added to it. to il. Doublc-cream. nowrB-cntta - French soft cream cheese Double.-cream. DOUBLE-CRME - French soft cream cheese inwhch whichthe themilk milk is isenriched enriched with with added addedcream, cream,mc:re~ISHH! increasing in the weight by one-sixth. A small quantity of rennet is mixed the weight by one-sixth. A small quantity of rennet is with it it so so that that the the slow slow process of ofcoagulation coagulation lasls lasts about about with 24 hours. The curd, wrapped in a cloth, is put under weights 24 hours. The curd, in a cloth, is under weights to drain. drain. Next, Next, cream cream is worked workd ioto into it. The The curds curds are are ta moulded and wrapped in waxed paper. moulded and wrapped in waxed paper. Dmlop -- Scottish Scottish cheese cheese somewhat somewhat similar similar to to Cheshire Cheshire Dunlop and Double Gloucester, but which, in the opinion of English and Double Gloucester, but which, in the opinion of English gastronomes, is much superior to both. Sir Walter Scott gastronomes, is much to both. Sir Walter Scott was enthusiastic about this cheese. was enthusiastic about Dutch cheeses - There are a great many of these. The Dutch cheeses - There are a great many of these. The best-known, Edam, Edarn, s is made made in in a a number number of of European European countries and in in America. America. Partly Partly skimmed skimmed milk, milk, curdled curdled in in counlries 15 to 20 minutes, is mixed with rennet. Fermentation is very 15 to 20 minutes, is mixed with rennet. Fermentation is very slow, and and allowed allowed to to continue continue until until a a hard, hard, non-porous non-porous slow, rind is is formed. As soon as the cheese is fully fermented, the rnd formed. As soon as the cheese is fully fermented, the cheese is painted over with a coating of linseed oil. Somecheese is painted over with a coating of linseed oil. Sometimes it it is is gfven a a furtner further coating paraffin, before coating of of paraffin, before being being times (dye). coloured annatto (dye). coloured with annatto cheese is yellow-red when stove-dried, softish and Edam cheese Edam is yellow-red when stove-dried, softish and free from holes. free from holes. Emmenthal Swiss hard hard cheese cheese named named after after the the high - Swiss Emmenthal Emme valley (in the Berne Canton), but made in Switzerland Emme valley (in the Berne Canton), bul made in wherever there there is is highland highland pasture. pasture. As As the the transport transport of of wherever butter from from these these mountain districts would be uneconomic, butter mountain dislricts would he uneconomic, Emmenthal cheese cheese is usually made from whole milk. HowEmmenthal is made from whole milk, However, in in sorne some parts a a semi-fat Emmenthal Emmenthal is is made, made. The cheese is manufactured in the same way as Gruydre. cheese manufactured in the same way as Gruyre. The round round Emmenthal Emmenthal cneeses cheeses are are larger larger than Gruydres, The tban Gruyres, weighing from 60 to 100 ke. (132 to 2201b.). Their rind is is " ,... onn.!> from 60 ta 100 kg. (132 ta 220 lb,). Their rnd straw straw coloured. .... VIVU' ...... The cheese cheese is creamier than Gruydren less pungent and The is crcamicr Ihan Gruyre, less pungent and usually less salty. It has a good many holes called .eyes,, usually Jess salty. Il has a many holes called 'eyes', usually three to every bore-hole made. usually three to every made. There is also a French Emmenthal cheese. There s a1so a French Emmenthal cheese. Epoisces - Whole-milk, mould inoculated, soft French Epoisses - Whole-milk, mould inoculated, soft French cheese made in almost every part of Burgundy and in central cheese made in almost every part of Burgundy and in cenlral France. Its name comes from a village on the C6te d,Or. France. Ils name cornes from a village on the Cte d'Or. The The milk m!lk is is curdled curdled with with a a special rennet, renne!, flavoured ftavoured with with pepper, clove, fennel, salt, and brandy. It is eaten bhck and brandy. Tt is eaten black clove, fennel, either fresh or ripened. eithcr or ripened. The cheese is left in cellars to ripen for a longer or shorter The cheese is left in cellars 10 for a longer or shorter time according to whether it is to be eaten passC (over-ripe) time according to whether it s to eaten passe (over-ripe) (runny). ot coulant or coulant (runny). The The fresh fresh cheese cheese is s eaten eaten in in summer; summer; the the ripe ripe cheese cheese in in (November winter winter or or spring (November to to June). Ero6 Cheese made in the Aridge district, in Er made in the district, in season season between November and and May. May. between November Ervy-Cheese Ervy - Cheese from from Champagne Champagne whichis whch is at at its ilS best best between between Nolember and May. N ovem ber and Ehrvd Semi-hard Dutch cheese which good is to cuv Dutch cheese which is good to eat cat all aU the year round. the round. Normandy cheese, eaten all Exoelsior Ifv,t'"~h~iN' - Normandy cheese, eaten ail the the year year round. round. Feullle de de Dreur Dreux - Cheese Chcese made made in in the the lle-de-France. lle-de-France. It Tt is good to eat between November and May. is 10 eal betwecn November and Fin de si0cle - Normandy cheese which is good to eat all de sicle - Normandy cheese whicb good 10 eal ail the year round. the year round. Fleu Fleur de de Decauville Decauville-- Cheese Cheese made made in in the the Ile-de-France. ]Ie-de-France. It Il is good to eat between December and May. IS to eat bctwecn December and May. Fontire -- Cheese Chcese made made in in Franche-Comt6 Franche- Comt all ail the the year year round. round. Fourme - Cheese from the Limagne. There are the cheeses Fourme - Cheese from the Limagne. There are the checses of of Ambert, of of Montbrisson, Montbrisson, of of Salers, Salers, etc., etc., known known as as Fourme d'Ambert, Fourme Fourme de de Montbrisson, Alonlbrisson, Fourme Fourme de de Salers. The latter is sometimes sold under the name of latter is sometimes sold under the name of Cantal. These These cheeses cheeses are generally al aregenerally atlheir theirbest fromNovembestfrom NovemCan/al. ber to toMay. May. ber Foutina - Italian Italian soft, soft, creamy creamycheese cheese used used in in making making Foutina fondues in in the the Val Val d'Aosta, d'Aosta. fondues Friesche Kaas Kaas - Soft Soft Outch Dutch cheese cheese in in seaSOn seasonbetween between Friescbe November and and May, May. November Frinot -- Cheese Cheese made made in in the the region of of Orlans, Orl6ans, which which is is Frinot in season season helween between November November and June. in Fromage li la (fresh Wlfennented pie (fresh la pie unfernrentedcheese) cheese) - Usually Usually Fromage from skimmed made from skimmed milk milk on on farros farms and and is is for for immediate immediate made consumption. It It can can also also he be made made in in the the home home from from whole whole "'VI""~""If'L""'''. milk. The milk milk is is left left to (12. ta to stand stand in in aa cool cool place (12 to 15C., 15.C., milk. c 53' 10 to 59 59'F.). Curdling takes place al takes place at the end end of of 24 24 to to 36 36 53 F.). Curdling hours, through the the action action of of the the lactic lactic ferment. ferment. Ii It can can also also hours, made with renne!. be made rennet. he pie is Fromage d la la pie is eaten eaten fresh, fresh, with with fresh fresh crcam cream added. added. It may may be seasoncd seasoned wth with sugar, sugar, or pepper according or salt salt and and pepper according 11 to taste, taste, and and a a !iule little chopped chopped chives chives for for added added flavour. flavour. to Gammel6st -- Norwegian Norwegian all-the-year-round cheese. cheese. Gammelst G6r0m6 Cheese made made in in the the Vosges. Its name is a corGrm - Cheese ruption of of Grardmer. G6rardmer. rupton It is is made made from from wbole whole milk milk and and rennet, rennet, and and is is ripened ripened in Il in cellars for for 4 4 months, months, until until the the crust crust has has taken taken on on a tawny cellars tawnv colour. Sometimes Sometimes aniseed, aniseed, fenne! fennel or or caraway caraway seeds seeds are arl colour. added. Grm Ger6m6 is is a a winter winter cheese, cheese, eaten eaten between between Novemadded. and April. ber and April. ber petitGervais - Well-known Well-known make make of (See Petitof Petit-suisse. Petit-suisse. (See Gervais sadsse.) suisse.) Gex - French French blue-veined cheese cheese manufactured al at Gex, Gex principal town town of of the the Ain Ain dpartement, dipartement, between November and May, from from unskimmed whole milk, milk, coaguJated coagulated in in 2 and unskimmed whole (77" 1081 hours al at 25 25' to 27'C. (77 to 8l'F.). hours to 27C. OF.). Before it offered for sale, il it is stored for 2 weeks weeks in Before it is is offcred for sale, is stored for 2 ripening special qualities develop. ripening cellars cellars where whcre its ilS special develop. The 'blue'which the penicillum selfThe 'blue' which is due due to to the penicillum glaucum, glaucum, is is sclfgenerating during processing ... ''''''' ..... ''!S and and appears during processing without without the aid e of any foreign foreign body. The chief chief characteristic characteristic of of Gex cheese, which which distinguishes it it from from all ail others, others, is is that that (except (except for for the blue streaks) streaks) it reremains mains ptrre pure white. white. It Il takes takes from from 2 2 to to 4 4 months months to to ripen completely. Gjetiict - Brown-coloured Browncoloured Norwegian Norwcgian cheese cheese which wruch can be be eaten eaten all ail the the year year round. round. It It is is made of goats' goats' milk. milk. Glouctster Gloucester - There There are are two two English cheeJes checse.s of of this this name: na me : the famous Double Double Gloucester Gloucester aia Single Gloucester. Gloucester. the famous Double Double Gloucester. GlouceSler. The The shape shape and size of a large large grindgrind stone, stone, it it is is crumbly crumbly in in texture texture and and has has a a strong strong but but mellow mellow and and delicate delicate flavour. flavour. It It ripens ripens slowly slowly (this (this process process takes takes about about 6 6 months) months) and and keeps well. weil. Single Single Gloucester. Gloucesler. Made during during spring and and summer, summer, ripens ripens in in about about 2 2 months. months. It 1t is s flat fiat and round, round, similar simlar to \0 Double Double Gloucester Gloucester in in shape, shape, and and has has a a soft soft and and open open texture. texture. It Tt is s excellent excellent for for toasting. toasting. Ghx Glux - Nivernais Nivernais cheese cheese which which can can be be eaten ealen all a11 the the vear year round. round. Goab'milk Goats' milk cheescs. cheeses. FRoMAcE FROMAGE or DE cntvns CHVRE - A A wide wide varietv variety of ofgoats' goats' milk milk cheeses cheeses are are manufactured manufactured throughout Ihrougnollt France. France. Occasionally a little Occasionallya liUle cows' cows' milk milk is is added added due due to to the the growing scarcity scarcity of ofgoats'milk. goals' milk. Goats'milk Goals: m.ilk cheese cheese is is usually usuallystrongly salted salted to ta make make it il more more closely c1ose1y resemble rescmblc cows' cows' milk milk cheese cheese (and (and to 10 preserve it). it). In ]n fact, fact, many many goats' goalS' milk milk cheeses cheeses are are far far too too salty. Although this is usually usually eaten eaten fresh fresh it it can can be be preprethis cheese cheese is served scrved in in various variousways ways and and eaten eaten when whcn very very mature. mature. (In (In the the Arddche Ardcheitit is iswrapped wrapped in inwalnut walnutleaves Jeaves or orplaced placed in in eartheneartbenware warepots.) pots,) Among the milk cheeses cheeses are are the the the best best known known of ofthe the goats' milk Banon of Provence I->rr",,'''n,..,. theCabicou Cabcouof Quercy , the , the theChabichou Chabichouof of

212

CHEESE
Poitou, the theChavignol Chavlgnolof ofBerry Berry('crottins'), ('crot lins'),la laMothe'Saint' Mothe-SaintPoitou, Hiraye, the Levroux, Levroux, small small Mdcons Mcons of of Burgundy, Burgundy, -the the Hraye, the Corsican Niolo, Niolo, the the Rigottes Rigollesof ofCondrieu, Condrieu, the theRocamadour Rocamadour Corsican and Saint-Marcellin Saint-Marcellinof ofDauphinl, Dauphin, the the Valengay, Valenay, the theSainteSainteand

CHEESE

Maure. Maure. GorgonzolllSemi-hardcheese cheesewhich whichtakes takesits itsname namefrom from Gorgonzola - Semi-hard little village near near Milan. Milan. It It is is made made by by a a rather rather complex complex aa [ttlJvillage process. process. Good Good Gorgonzola, Gorgonzola, which which is is aa spring springand and summer summer cheese, has has a a thin thin rind. rind. The The cheese cheese should should be be streaked streaked with with iheese. blue, but but not not excessively, exeessively, and and should should be be yellowish yellowish white white in in blue, colour. colour. Gouda-- Dutch Duteh cheese cheesemade madefrom fromwhole wholemilk, milk, very verysimilar similar Gouda to Cantal Cantal but but there thereis isno no preliminary preliminary fermentation. fermentation. to Gournay Gournay - French French whole-milk, whoJe-rnilk, soft soft cheese cheese made made at at Gournay, Gournay, in in Normandy, Nonuandy, and and in in neighbouring neighbouring districts. districts. At At its best best between between September September and and June. June. its Gruy0re Gruyre - The The Gruydre Gruyre valley valley is is situated situated in in the the Fribourg Fribourg Canton, dominated dominatcd by by the the Mol6son. Molson. It It has has given given its its name name to to Canton, a a cheese eheese which which is is also also made made in in the the Cantons Cantons of of Vaud Vaud and and Neuchtel. True True Gruydre Gruyre is is only only made made in in French French SwitzerSwitzerNeuchAtel. land. land. Formerly, Formerly, only only semi-fat semi-fat cheeses cheescs or or cheeses eheeses made made from from skimmcd milk milk were were manufactured, manufactured, the the cream cream being being used used for for skimmed butter, butter. which whieh could be be economically economieally exported. exported. Nowadays Nowadays whole whole milk milk Gruydres Gruyres are are also also made, made, especially especially for for export' export. This This cheese cheese is often often confused confused with with Emmenthal. Emmenthal. Sometimes Sometimes cheesemongers advertise 'a 'a genuine genuine Gruydre Gruyre from from EmmenEmmencheesemongers thal' which whieh is like saying saying 'genuine 'genuine Brie Brie from from Camembert'! Camembert' 1 It It thal' l0 to is made made in rounds of of 50 to ta 60 kg. (l (110 ta 1301b.). 130 lb.). The The rind rind is is golden golden brown. brown. The The cheese is is waxy, waxy, more more or or less less dry dry according according wJtigh ta ug.. age. It is is scored with with cracks underneath through through which i=o demands of To satisfy the out. To ooze out. of serum serum ooze drops the demands of the the drof,s of 'eyes' in which expects 'eyes' in the the cheese, cheese, it it is is proproFrench market which These appear. These such cessed in su ch a way for export that little liule holes hales appear. The export export Emmenthal. The in Emmenthal. always smaller than the holes are always hales in conlocal confor local made for those made than those salty than less salry also Jess are also cheeses cheeses are excellent this excellent of this flavour of pungent flavour the pungent To enhance the sumption. sumption. To pieces in in a a preserve the the pieces to preserve in Switzerland Switzerland to is usual usual in it is cheese, cheese, it wine. white wine. or white water or in salted salted water cloth cloth soakcd soaked in mounin the the mounfactories in in cheese cheese factories manufactured in is manufactured GruyEre is Gruyre long time time a very very long for a It keeps keeps for pastures' It the pastures. ilose ta to the tains, tains, close others cheese, others ripe cheese, a very very ripe demand a connoisseurs demand Some connaisseurs uncut. uncut. Sorne two the two (q.v.) a mixture of of the a mixture For/ondue fresh. For it fairly fairly fresh. prefer it prefer fondue (q.v.) required. is normally normally required. kinds kinds is of triangles of little triangles years now, now, little For sorne some years di. For Gruyire, Crme Crlme de. Gruyre, paper. in silver silver paper. wrapped in sold, wrapped been sold, have been proceised cheese cheese have processed from even from and sometimes sometimes even Comt6 and from Comt made from is made This This cheese cheese is Gruyre. Gruydre. means of of as a a means produced mainly mainly as was produced cheese was first, this this cheese Ai first, At in much in gained so so much has gained it has but il cheeses, but defective cheeses, up defective using up using made cheese made from cheese manufactured from is now now manufactured it is poputarity that that it popularity great number number of of are now now aagreat purpose.There Thereare for the the purpose. especially ispeciallyfor (called creams) made ffrom creams) made cheeses (called packaged cheeses processed and and packaged processed rom cheeses. ofbasic variety of aavariery basic cheeses. the to the appeal to always appeal not always does not flavour does indeterminate flavour Theii indeterminate Their are They are explained. They iseasily easilyexplained. success is their success but their connoisseur, but connoisseur, form, and hygienic hygienic form, convenient and inaaconvenient packaged in andpackaged processed and proeessed nowaste. waste. leaving no andleaving norind rindand havingno having are cheesesare Gruydre-type cheeses ofGruyre-type Anumber numberof deComl. Comti.A Gruyre Gruyire de For America. For andin inAmerica. Europeand allover overEurope incountries countriesail madetoday todayin made inthe the manufactured in hasbeen beenmanufactured Gruydrehas ofGruyre typeof longtime timea atype aalong now themselvesnow manufacturers themselves deComt Comt6manufacturers Gruydrede butGruyre Jura,but Jura, replaced bereplaced Comt6be deComt GruyLtede appellationGruyre insistthat thatthe theappel/a/ion insist Comt6. byComt. sim ply by simply inseason season whichisisin Picardy,which fromPicardy, Cheesefrom Guerbigny- Cheese Guerbigny MaY. andMay. Octoberand between betweenOctober dlpartement cityof ofthe the in Gu6ret,a a madein Cheesemade Gu6ret- -Cheese Guret Guret, city dpartement atils itsbest best andisis Creusois,and calledCreusois, sometimescalled ofCreuse. Creuse.ItItisis of sometimes at

between hetweenSeptember Septemberand andJune. June. cheese. Made in Belgium, from Herv6 Herv - Soft, Soft,fermented fermented cheese. Made in Bel gi l.lm, l'rom is curdled with rennet, and drained under great it cows'milk, cows' milk, it is curdled with rennet, and drained un der great pressure pressurein insquare squaremoulds. moulds. cellars where the cheeses are Ripening Ripeningtikes takesplace placein indark dark cellars where the cheeses are one against the other, covered with placed sides, on their placed on their sidcs, one against the other, covered with cloths steepedin inbeer. beer. c10thssteeped a mild variety of Herv6 cheese. Best There Thereis isaastrong strongand and a mild variery of Herv cheese. Best and MaY. November eaten between eaten between November and May. made at Huppemeau in the Loire-et' HuppemeanHuppemeau- Cheese Chccse made at Huppemeau in the Loire-etto Brie. Cher Cher region. region. It It is is somewhat somewhat similar similar ta Brie. Normandy cheese which is in season from Incheville

Incbeville - Normandy cheese which is in season from November Novemberto ta May. May. from ewes' or goats' milk. Half the Jonchee - Cheese JoncheCheesemade made from ewes' or goats' rnilk. Half the leaves. This is mixed with the with milk is boiled milk is boilcd with a a few few bay bay leaves. This is mixed with the milk. It is curdled with rennet and remainder remainder of of the the raw raw milk. It is curdled with rennet and pots. decanted decanted into into little little pots. cheese which can be eaten all the Kaunas Kaunas - Lithuanian Lithuanian cheese whieh can he eaten ail the year year round. round. with caraway seeds, which can be Kummel - Dutch KummelDutch cheese cheese with caraway seeds, which can be year round. It is also called Leidsche Kaas. all the eaten eaten ail the year round. Il is also called Leid,che Kaas. This cheese from Burgundy is good (Les) (Les) Laumes Laumes - This cheesc from Burgundy is good between between October Oetober and and JulY. July. cheese made in and around Berry, in Lewoux Levroux - Goats' Goats' cheese made in and around Berry, in December. season season between between MaY May and and December. is made in the same way as Edam. kyden - Leyden LeydenLeyden cheese cheese is made in the same way as Edam. cumin, cloves or cinnamon. Some It Il is is often often flavoured flavoured with with cumin, cloyes or cinna mon. Sorne prefer Dutch cheese stove-dried. This makes it connoisseurs connaisseurs pre fer Dutch cheese stove-dried. This makes it its flavour. Leyden is also known as but creamy less improves its flavour. Leyden is also known as less creamy but improves Kummel. and Kaas Leidsche Leidsche Kaas and Kummel. fermented cheese made in Limbourger Limoourger - Semi-hard, Semi-hard, fermented cheese made in The whole-milk curds are Belgium, and Germany. Germany. The whole-milk curds are Belgium, Alsace Alsace and parsley and tarragon, put in moulds chives, with kneided kneaded witb chives, parsley and tarragon, put in mou Ids The surface surface is made non-porous by sun. The and dried and dried in in the the sun. is made non-porous by and brushing. salting salting and brushing. has given Calvados in the A town small Livirot - A small town in the Calvados region Livarot region has given paste cheese (usually coloured annatto a soft name to its its name ta a soft paste cheese (usually coloured annatto red). This is an autumn and winter cheese. or deep deep red). brown or brown This is an autumn and winler cheese. cheese which is in season between Picardy cheese Manicamp - Picardy Manicamp which is in season between and July. October and July. October cheese which is full-flavoured Semi-hard, full-flavoured cheese Mrroilles - Serni-hard, Maroilles which is takes its name from a village in the and which in shape square square in shape and which takes its name from a village in the It is is manufactured in Thi6rache and all over district. It Avesnes district. Avesnes manufaetured in Thirache and al! over Picardy. Picardy. are salted, quickly dried and stored curds are The whole-milk whole-milk curds The salted, quickly dried and stored intervals, the cheese is turned at frequent where, a cellar in in a cellar where, at frequent intervals, Ihe cheese is tumed beer' It is at ir best between with and washed brushed, over, over, brushed, and washed with beer. II is at ilS best between It is is also called Marolles or Marole. and June. June. It November and November also called Marolles or Marole. mountains which is in Jura mountains from the the Jura Cheese from Metton - Cheese Metton which is in to June. October from season season from Oetober 10 June. made in Normandy, good between Cheese made Monsieu - Cheese MonsieW' in Normandy, good between and June. June. November and Novembcr semi-hard, blue-veined, round, large, A Mont Ceni~ Cenis - A large, round, serni-hard, Mont blue-veined, somewhere between a Roquefort and a cheese whole-milk whole-milk cheese somewhere between a Roquefort and a cellars where it acquires its characincellars ripensin It ripens Gorgonzola. Il Gorgonzola. where it acquires its characbluestreaks. streaks. teristic blue teristic had agreat reputation' whichonce cheese, Montd'Or-This Mont d'Or- This cheese, which once had a grea t reputa tion, along the banks of the Sa6ne, round Lyons. made be used to uscd ta be made along the banks of the Sane, round Lyons. goats was used. The cheese was milkof ofstable-fed stable-fedgoats Onlythe themilk Only was used. The cheese was weeks. for55ta to66weeks. cellars for incellars ripenedin ripened name is made all over itsname now bears which Thecheese cheesewhich now bears its The is made ail over cows' milk and bears very from is manufactured France, France, is manufactured from cows' milk and bears very tothe the original cheese' The best is made at resemblance to littlerescmblance original cheese. The best is made at little Itsseason season lasts from December to April. Montd'Or. d'Or.Ils Mont lasts from December to April. goats' milk cheese from Francheveined Lightly MorbierMorbier - Lightly veined goats' milk cheese from Francheand June. October between Good Comt6. Comt. Good between October and June. cheese in season between Poitou (La) Mothe-Bougon (La) Mothe-Bougon - Poitou chcese in season between December. Mayand andDecember. May

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CHEESE CHEESE
poitou (La) Molhe-Sainl-Hraye Mothe-Saint-Hdraye -- Goals' Goats' cheese cheese from from Poitou (La) which is is in in season season between between May May and and November. November. Also Also ealled called whieh Lamothe-Bougon. Lama/he-Bougon, Munster -- Semi-hard, Semi-hard, fermented, fermented, whole-milk whole-milk cheese, cheese, Mnnster usually tlavoured flavoured with with caraway caraway or or aniseed, aniseed. Made Made in in Alsace, Alsace, usually (Upper Rhine), in the the Munster Munster valley valley (Upper Rhine), it it is is much much prized prized by by in lovers of of cheese cheese and good belween and is is good between November November and and ApriL April. lovers Murol -- Cows' Cows' milk milk cheese cheese from from Auvergne Auvergne shaped like a shaped like a MIIrol small wheel wheel with with aa hole hole in in the centre. Good the centre, Good between between October October small and June, June. and Mysiist -- Norwegian Norwegian cheese cheese which which can can be be eaten eaten ail all the the Mysiisi year round, round. year Nantais -- This This Breton Breton cheese, cheese, somelimes sometimes ealled called Fromage Fromage Nantais &t cur, good 10 curi, is is good year round, to eat eat ail all the the year round. du Neufchf,tel or or Bondon Bondon -- Small Small French, French, loaf-shaped loaf-shaped cheese cheese Neufchtel made from from skimmed skimmed milk, milk, whole whole milk milk or or wilh with added added crea cream. made m, It is is ripened ripened on on straw straw bundles bundles in in a a drying drying room room until until a a skin, skin, lt white at at first and laler first and (first skin), later bluish, bluish, forms forms on on the the surface surface (firsl skin). white The ripeningis ripening is then then completed completed in in cool, cool, well-aired well-aired store store rooms rooms The until a a second second skin forms, this skin forms, this lime time red red in in colour. colour. The The cheese cheese until is a yellow and rather dark a rather dark yellow and is is at at its its best best between between October October and and is June. June, Niolo Corsican cheese, cheese, which which is particularly good is particuJarly good from from - Corsican Niolo November to to May, May. November Noekkeliist - Norwegian Norwegian cheese cheese which which can can be be eaten eaten all all the the Noekkeliislyeard round, round. yeard Olivet Whole-milk, mould-inoculated mould-inoculated cheese, cheese, made made in in - Whole-milk, Olivet the small town of small lown of Olivet, Olivet, in in the Loiret. Il the Loiret, It is is made made of of ewes' ewes' Ihe milk, in (l inch) in dises discs about about 2!2l cm, cm. (1 (6 inches) inch) thick and 15 thick and l5 cm, cm. (6 inches) milk, in diameter. The The curd curd is white and and rather salty. This cheese cheese in diameteL is white rather salt y, This has its season from from OClober October to to June, June. has ilS season There is is another another type of Olivet Olivet cheese, cheese, called called Olivet Olivet There type of Cendrd, which good 10 to eat from October eat from Fresh Cendr, which is is good October to to June. June, Fresh creamy Olivet Olivet cheese cheese is sold in in the the summer summer months. creamy is sold monlhs, Oloron Cheese from from Barn B6arn also also called called Fromage de la la - Chcese Oloron Fromage de Vallde d'Ossau,whichshould eaten from Valle d'Ossau, which should be be eaten from October October to to May. May, Paladm Savoy, in - Cheese Paladru Cheese made made in in Savoy, in season season from from NovemNovember ber to to May. May, Parmesan cheese, which - This Parmesan This famous famous cheese, which keeps keeps for for a a very very long is made made in in Lombardy Lombardy and and in in the the Romagna Romagna under under long time, time, is various various names. names, The The name name 'Parmesan'is 'Parmesan' is used used abroad abroad for for export skimmed milk. export cheeses cheeses of of this this type. type, It It is is made made with with skimmed milk, During During the the ripening ripening process, process, which which is is very very slow, slow, harmful hannful microbes microbes can can cause cause liquid liqllid patches patch es in in the Ihe cheese, cheese, which which are are dealt dealt with with by by Italian Italian cheese-makers. cheese-makers, They They test test the the cheese cheese by by tapping tapping it il with with a a hammer. hammeL When When they they detect detecl a a soft soft patch, palch, they they open open up up the the cheese, cheese, cut cut out out the the diseased diseased section section and and cauterise cauterise the the 'wound'with 'wound' with a a red-hot red-hot iron. iron, The The ripening ripening period period lasts lasts for for nearly nearly 4 4 years. years, At At the the end end of of this this process process the the cheese cheese may may be be kept or even even longer. longer. kept for for a a very very long long time, lime, 20 20 years years or Parmesan Parmesan is is a a hard ha rd cheese cheese which which can can be be eaten eaten all al! the the year round, It il is is golden golden yellow yellow in in colour colour and and should should sweat sweal year round. very very slightly. slightly, Pav6 Pav de de Moyarx Moyaux - Normandy Normandy cheese cheese which which is is in in season season from from November November to to June. June, Pelardon de Ruoms Goats' cheese made in Pelardon de Ruoms - Goats' cheese made in Arddche, Ardche, which is in in season season from from May May to to November. NovembeL which is Petit-suisse Petit-suisse - Very Very creamy, creamy, unsalted unsalled French French cheese cheese of of the the double-cream double-cream type, type, small small and and cylindrical cylindrical in in shape. shape, It It is is made made from from whole whole milk, milk, with with 20 20 per per cent cent proportion proportion of of fresh fresh cream cream added. added, In ln spite spi te of of its its name, name, it il was was first first made made not not in in Switzerland Gournay in in Normandy Nonnandy (Seine-Inferieure). (Seine-Infrieure), Switzerland but but in in Gournay The The Gervais Gervais Petit-suisse Petit-suisse is is the the best-known best-known make. make, ManuManufacturing factming this Ihis cheese cheese is is a a delicate delicate process, process, to 10 which which the the most most up-to-date up-to-date scientific scientific methods methods of of production production and and supersupervision vision are are applied. applied, Picodon madein in the the Dauphin6 Dauphinwhich which Picodonde de Dieulefit Dieulefit-- Cheese Cheese made is is in in season season from from May May to to December. December.
Pithiviers au aufoin foin-- Cheese Cheese made made in Orl6ans region in the the Orlans region and and Pithiviers ripened on on hay, hay. ln In season from October season from October to May. to May, ripened (Puy-de-D0me) -- Made Pontgibaud (Puy-de-Dme) Made in in the the same way as same way as Pontgibaud Roquefort, but but from from eows' cows'milk. year round, Eaten aH all Ihe the year round, Roquefort, milk, Eaten except in in mid-summeL mid-summer. except PontJ'EvQue -- French French semi-hard, semi-hard, fermented fermented cheese, cheese, POllt-I'Evqlle made from from whole whole or or skimmed skimmed milk, milk. lt It is is shaped shaped in in square square made moulds, salted processed like salted and and processed like the Bondon or the Bondon or Neufchtel. Neufchfltel. moulds, It is is ripened ripened in in cellars, cellars. This This takes takes from from 3 3 to 4 months, months, or to 4 less or less It if the the cheese cheese is is very very rich rich in in cream, cream. Pont-l'Evque PontJ'Ev0que can can be eaten if be eaten year round the whoJe whole year round except except in in August August but but is is at at its its besl best the between October October and and June, June. Il It should have a should have a wrinkled, wrinkled, between greyish-yellow crust crust. The The cheese pale yellow cheese is yellow in is softish and pale softish and in greyish-yellow colour. colom, Port-Salut -- A A superb yellow, whole-milk superb creamy, creamy, yellow, whole-milk eheese, cheese. Pori-Salut It was was first first made made at Trappist Monastery at the the Trappist Monastery of Port du of Port du Salut, Salut, Il near Laval. Laval. The The name name of of Port-Salut Port-Salut was given 10 was given to it it by a by a near company established (Mayenne dpartement) established at at Entrammes Entrammes (Mayenne dCpartement) company where il it is is slill still made, made, as as weil well as as in in Trappist Trappist monasteries monasteries ail all where over the world, according the world, according 10 to a a secret good secret formula, formula. Il It is is good over year. throughout the the yeaL throughout Pouligny.Saint-Pierre Famous cheese cheese made made from from May Pouligny-Saint-Pierre - Famous to December December in in Berry, Berry. to Puant Macr Macer6 Cheese from from Flanders, Flanders, in in season season from Puant - Cheese November till till June, June. November Pultttst farm eheese cheese which can can be PuJliist - Norwegian mountain fann year round, eaten ail all the year round. eaten Reblochoncheese made in Sa It is made of Savoy. of cows' Reblochon - Soft cheese voy, Il milk and is is in in season season from Oelober October to June, June. milk Recollet de de Grardmer G6rardmer Cheese from from the the Vosges, Vosges, in Rcollet - Cheese to April, April. season from from October to Remondur Belgian cheese cheese called called Fromage in Fromage piquant piquant ln Remondou - Belgian season from season from November November to June. June, Riceys sometimes called called Champenois Riceys cendr6 cendr Chee se sometimes -'Cheese which September to June, June. which is in in season from from September Rigotte creamy goats' CondriellgoalS' cheese of Rigotte de Condrieu - Semi-hard, creamy the Lyon district which is in season from May Lyon district in season May to November. November. Rocamadou This community Rocamadour communily in the Lot, celebrated celebrated for - ThIS its setting and its places of picturesque setting of pilgrimage, pilgrimage, has given ils picturesque its name to 10 a a very small ewes'milk ewes' milk cheese which is in season season ils name from from November November to May. May, Rollot Rollot - Cheese Cheese in in the form fonn of of a disc resembling Brie and Camembert, and Camembert, although although smaller. smalleL It lt is is also called Bigolot, Bigolol, and comes cornes from from Picardy. Picardy, It It is in season season from from October October to May. May, Romalour Romalour - Cheese from from the the Loire district dislrict which can be be eaten eaten all aH the Ihe year year round. round, Roquefort Roquefort - The true true Roquefort cheese, cheese, made made in the the little litlle town that name ofthat name in in the the Saint-Affrique Saint-Affrique district (Aveyron), (Aveyron), is is town of manufactured manufactured exclusively exclusively from from ewes' ewes' milk, milk, sheep sheep being being the the only animais which which can subsist subsist on on the the arid pastures pastures of of the the only animals Causses. Causses, Corsica Corsica exports exports a a large large number number of of cheeses cheeses to 10 the the Causses Causses to 10 be'treated'in be 'trealed' in the the caves caves there. there. The this cheese The unique unique feature fea t ure of ofthis cheese is is that that the the curds curds are are mixed mixed with of breadcrumb. breadcrumb, The The bread bread is is dried and and with a a special special type type of then then ground ground to to a a fine fine dust, dust, in in which which a a special special greenish greenish mould mould is is allowed allowed to to develop. develop, To To ensure ensure the the right right conditions conditions for for ripening are stored stored in in damp, damp, cool cool caves caves (4" (4 to to ripening, the the cheeses cheeses are 8oC., g0c', 40o 40 to to 47'F.), 47F,), such such as as the the natural natural caves caves which which are are to to be be found found in in the Ihe Causses Causses region. region, After After 30 30 or or 40 40 days, days, the the cheese cheese is is ready ready for for sale, sale, but but before before it il takes lakes on on the the pungent pungenl flavour flavour which which makes makes it it so so soughtsoughtafter after by by the the connoisseur, connoisseur, it il must must be be left left to to ripen ripen for for a a much much longer longer period. period, In ln fact, fact, in in the the view view of ofthe the experts, experts, it it should should be be kept kept for for ayear. a yeaL A good Roquefort Roquefort has has a a grey grey rind. rind, The Thecheese cheeseis isyellowish, yellowish, A good very very fatty fatly and and evenly evenly veined veined with with blue. blue, If If it it is s too too white white in in appearance appearance and and chalky chalky in in texture, lexture, it it is is not not completely complele!y ferfermented. mented,

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CHEESE
The Roquefort Roquefort season season lasts lasts from May to September September but The it is is eaten all ail the the year year round. round. A number number of of different different districts districts it in France France produce produce a Roquefort-type cheese but these may in not be be sold sold under under the the name name of of Roquefort. not Rouennais - Normandy Normandy cheese cheese which which is in season from Rouennais October to to May. October Rougeret - Small goats' cheese made near near Micon. Mcon. Is also Rougeret under the the name name of of Maconnet. Maconnet. known under known Saint-Agathon - Breton cheese chee se that that is is in in season season from Saint-Agathon October to to July. October in season season from Saint-Florentin - Burgundian Burgundian cheese, chee se, in Saint-Florentin November to July. It is soft and salty. salty. November chiefly at manufactured chiefly chee se, manufactured This cheese, Saint-Marcellin - This principal town town of the the Isdre Isre district, district, was Saint-Marcellin, principal goats' milk. Today, both milk. Today, from goats' formerly made exclusively from as a a subare used used as are added 'or br are cows' milk and ewes' milk are goats' milk. milk. It is in in season between May stitute for for goats' May and It is season between December. May to Saint-Maure - Touraine cheese, in from May in season season from Saint-Maure November. It is a creamy, goats' milk cheese. November. a soft, creamy, and Saint-Rmi - Square cheese made in Franche-Comt Franche-Comt6 and Saint-Rdmi Haute-Savoie. It is soft and resembles Pont-l'Evque. PontJ'Ev6que. Sassenage made in in the the Sassenage - Semi-hard, blue-veined cheese made Isre; in season season from November to May. Isdre; Septmonceldcpartement which in the the Jura Jura dpartement Septuoncel - Small village in has given its name to a comes a Roquefort-type Roquefort-type cheese which cornes me way from Saint-Claude. as Gex Gex way as is made made in in the same It is the sa from Saint-Claude. It cheese May. Curds and May. cheese and is at its best between between November and from put together, together, without are sometimes milkings are sometimes put from two two milkings mixing, to produce a 'bastard Septmoncel'. as'bastard a cheese cheese known as mixing, Serr in the residue in the is the The whey, whey, which which is the residue Serr6 or Seray Seray - The manufacture tains a a certain certain contains still con of cheese, cheese, sometimes sometimes still manufacture of quantity of casein of casein a considerable proportion of butter and and a considerable quantity and case where where is particularly the the case This is albumen. This and soluble albumen. curdling be (by scalding). The butter butter can can be quickly (by scalding). The curdling takes place quickly extracted from to become first allowed allowed to and if it is first whey, and from this whey, acid, By this this with rennet. rennet. By a second time with second time acid, it it can can be be curdled a means it is the containing the serum containing possible to the serum is possible to precipitate the soluble and lactose and from the the lactose and separate separate it from albumen, and soluble albumen, mineraI and is is used used both both serri and is called called serr This substance substance is mineral salts. salts. This as food. animal food. as human and animal In serri the serr Glaris district, district, the notably in in the the Glaris In sorne regions, notably some regions, (called celery (called ligger wild celery pounded with with herbs, herbs, wild is pounded ligger in in German) is in particular. which into slabs made into slabs which particular. This is dried and made dried and This mixture is are with butter, butter, this this and mixed mixed with Grated and are called called schabzigger. Grated cheese, in high high is held held in flavour, is aromatic flavour, a strongly has a strongly aromatic chegse, which has esteem years, under under the the For sorne some years, connoissuers. For by sorne esteem by some connoissuers. name and with butter, mixed with butter, and it has has been been mixed Glaris, it of Crme CrCme de de Glaris, name of sold paper. wrapped in in silver silver paper. sold wrapped Soumaintrin, Burgundian Saint-Florentin - Burgundian Soumaintrin, aJso also called called Saint-Florentin cheese made prime vintage among aU all those those made vintage among regarded as as the the prime cheese regarded in in Burgundy. valley in Burgundy. in the Armance valley the Armance It our, yellow in (1 lb.), in col colouro g. (1 is yellow lb.), is It weighs weighs approximately 500 g. approximately 500 with yellowish-orange rind, from NovemNovemin season rind, and and is is in season from with a a yellowish-orange ber ber to to July. July. Soya It is is immemorial. It from time made in in China China from time immemorial. Soya Cheese made - Cheese the juices extracted from soya soya in the extracted from of fermentation the juices fermentation in the result result of beans. beans. The put are put by soaking, and swollen swollen by soaking, are The beans, beans, softened softened and through is rnixed mixed with with aa press. The The liquid liquid thus thus extracted extracted is a press. through a little tes into grey into aa grey It coagula coagulates magnesium. It little sulphate sulphate oflime of lime or or magnesium. mass curds. ferment like like curds. mass which which is is left left to to ferment Stilton cream milk with with cream whole milk from whole made from cheese made Stilton -- English English cheese added, is The cheese cheese is ripen. The long time to ripen. very long time to which takes a very added, which takes a marked not be be cut cut but but It should green streaks. should not grey and streaks. It with grey and green marked with scooped port should be or port should be A little little sherry sherry or centre. A out of of the the centre. scooped out poured into the cheese. poured onto the cheese. and left left to to soak soak into onto it it and Stracchino goats' cheese. cheese. Italian soft soft goats' Shaccbino -- ltalian

cheese Stilton cheese Stilton

it

preparation, exexThis preparation, FoRT -- This FRoMAGE FORT cleese. FROMAGE Strong Strong cheese. well is especially especially weIl and strong-smelling, strong-smelling, is ceedingly savoury savoury and ceedingly and in in Corsica. Corsica. districts and and Lyons Lyons districts in the Morvan and liked in grated or milk cheese, cheese, salt salt or thinly thinly sliced sliced rnilk of grated Successive layers of put in in a !iule little cream, cream, are are put and mixed mixed herbs, herbs, and and sometimes sometimes a and jars, which with white white glazed stoneware which are are filled filled to to the the top top with stoneware jars, glazed and left left They are are hermetically sealed sealed and laced with with brandy. They wine laced 2 or weeks to ferment. in a a warm warm place for for 2 or 3 3 weeks to ferment. in given in France to Dutch in France to Dutch T0te de de mort mort sometimes given Tte - Name sometimes year round. round. all the the year Edam cheese. Good Goqd aU Edam cheese. varieties of which which several several varieties Savoy, of Tomme Tomme Cheese of of the the Savoy, - Cheese are in in Tomme au an fenouil Beauges and and Tomme exist. Tomme de de Beauges ev,rst. Tomme fenouil are Boudave from from Tomme de de Boudave season from September September to to June, Jwe, Tomme season from October October to to July. July. popular variety most popular variety is is of which which the the most Trappistes Trappistes -- Cheeses Cheeses of Trappist it is is made made by by the the Trappist Port-Salul, because known known as as Port-Salut, because it There are are several in the Mayenne. There several monks Port-du-Salut in the Mayenne. monks of of Port-du-Salut Trappiste de de regions of France: Trappiste other in various various regions of France: other types types in (Normandy), (Burgundy), Trappiste Bricquebec (Normandy), Trappiste de de Bricquebec Citeaux Citeaux (Burgundy), (Picardy), Trappiste Trappiste de Saintede SainteMont-des-Cats (Picardy), Trappiste Trappiste de de Mont-des-Cats (Savoy). (Brittany) and Trappiste de Tamie (Savy). de Tamie and Trappiste Anne-d'Auray Anne-d'Aur,ay (Brittany) year round. round. all the These These cheeses may be eaten aIl the year cheeses may be eaten

White garnishedwith withradish, radish, White cheese cheese garnished anchovy andchives chives anchovyand

215 215

CHEESE-RENNET CH EESE- RENNET

Tro0Touraine cheese cheese in in season season from from May to January. Troo - Touraine TroyesThis creamy creamy soft soft cheese, cheese, res,errlbJ:mg resembling '-Gl,lll<""U",,' Camembert, Troyes - This is in in seasO,n season from from November November to It is to May. May. It is also known as is
Barberey. Barberey. Yacherin Soft Soft cheese cheese made made in in the the Jura, Jura, in in Switzerland Switzerland Vacherinin Franche-Comt. Franche-Comt6. Il and in It is is in in season season from from November November to and to May. May. goats' milk cheese Vdengay -- Soft Soft goats' cheese from from the the Berry Berry district. Valenay district. In season from May to season from December. to December. ln Vend6me-Thereis a softVend6mecheese, madeinOrl6ans, Vendme cheese, made in Orlans, good from which is is good from October October to to June. There s June. There is also also a a hard hard which ewes' m.ilk milk cheese cheese ripened ripened under under ashes, ashes, which good in which s is good in the ewes' the same months, and and is is also also called called Vendme. Vend6me. same Vestgiitadst - Swedish Swedish cheese cheese which which can can he all Ihe Vestgotaost be caten eaten ail the year round. year Vic-en-Bigorre -- Barnaise B6arnaise winter winter cheese. Normandy cheese at at ilS its best best between NovemVilledieu - Normandy ber and and May. May. ber VYhite cbeese. cheese. FROMAGE FRoMAGE BLANC BLANc -- Made Made from f,rom whole whole milk, White treated with rennet, rennet, and and eaten in summer. eaten fresh n summer. treated preserved by ",.."'...,,,,.,,,.,., in the drying in by drying the sun sun or preserving or over over heat, heat, or or hy by preserving in sugar sugar or or in in brandy. brandy. Jams, Jams, jellies, and and symps syrups are made are made (see JAMS, from from them them (see JAMS, SYRUPS). They They are are used used for for distildistil(see KIRSCH), ling (see (see KIRSCH), and and liqueurs liqueurs are are made made wth with them them (see

MARASCHINO).
Their Their stalks, in infusions, infusions, are popular diuretic. stalks, used used in a popular are a diuretic. Cherries I'allemande I. Cherries Il l'allemande I. CERISES crnrsns A L'ALLEMANDE r'llr,Elrll,Nor - Cold Cold hors-d'uvre hors-d'ouvre which is is usually usually made made commercially, commercially, but it can can but it he be prepared in in the the following following way: way: just ripe, and Destalk morcllo morello cherries cherries which which are are only put only just and put them them in in a a jar, in in the the same way as gherkins (q.v.). same way as for for gherkins Cover Cover with with aromatic aromatic vinegar prepared prepared in in the the following following (7 oz g. (7 way: .. 1 cup) brown way: Put Put 200 2N g. oz.,l a fragment brown sugar, sugar, a fragment of of stick grated nUlmeg, stick cinnamon, a a little little grated nutmeg, and and 3 3 c10ves cloves into into 1 I pints, generous quart) litre (I~ pints, quart) vinegar. litre vinegar. Boil, Boil, allow allow to to cool cool and he cherries. and pour over over tthe cherries. Leave Leave the the cherries cherries in in this for 15 this for 15 days. ALLEMANDE - Put Cheries I l'allemande I'allemande U. If. CEruSES cnnrsns A 1': r'Arrerr{^ANon the - Put the destalked destalked cherries cherries in in a a dish dish and and caver cover wth with brown brown sugar. sugar. Cook Cook in in a a very very slow slow oven oven until until the the cherries cherries are are slightly slightly jar and softened. softened. When When they have cooled, cooled, put them in a a glass jar and cover cover with with aromatic vinegar, prepared as as above, above, but but using using less brown sugar. Leave for 15 days before use. Wilh With either method, one can can add thyme, thyme, bay and tarragon to to taste. Cherries prepared I'allemande, served d l'allemande, also under under the served also name of sweef-sour name sweet-sour cherries, cheties, are used used to to accompany boiled meats and cold meats in in the same sarne way as gherkins. Cherries Cheries in in brandy. brandy. CERISES cERIsEs A L'EAU-DE-V r'n.tu-oE-vn -- Choose we\lwellyet quite ripe. formed formed cherries cherries not not yet Cut stalks in half ripe. Cut stalks in half and and jar. Caver arrange the the cherries cherries in a a glass jar. good brandy Cover with good in which sorne some sugar has been dissolved dissolved ln in the proportion of (8 oz., g. (8 (scant quart, 225 l cup) sugar l litre litre (seant 225 g. oz., I sugar to quart, generous to I quart) brandy. Hermetically seal the jar. To obtain cherries less penetrated with Icss witb alcohol, use the following method method:: Shorten the stalks, stalks, and pierce each cherry cherry with the point of a a needle needle at al the the opposite end end from from the Ihe slalk. stalk. Dip Dip in cold water, drain. tbem in a terrine, covering them with a drain, and put them proportion of syrup made with sugar and water in the proportion of 2 kg. (4+1b.,9 (scant quart, generous quart) 9 cups) sugar to ta 1 I litre (seant water. Cover the teruine terrine and leave the cherries (0 absorb tbe cherries to the syrup for 24 hours. Drain, put them in a glass glass jar and cover caver with the syrup, syrup. which has been boiled down. After cooling, add 2 2 parts parts brandy for I 1 part syrup. Seal the the jar jar hermetically. ner'me:t!c:ally with claret. cla:ret. cERrsEs CERISES AU AU CLARET CLARET - Put 500 g, Cherries with g. Put 5@ (generous (generous I 1 lb.) destalked cherries cherries in a a pan. Cover with red Bordeaux Bordeaux wine, wine, add add sugar, sugar, and flavour l'lavaur with a little liule cinnamon. mon. Cook, covered, for l0 I to ta 12 minutes on a gentle heat. Leave the cherries to cool in their syrup. Pour off the wine and boil it down by a third. Add 3 tablespoons boillt tablespoons (scant * i cup) l'''',f\~~h".r'''J jelly, jelly, and and mix well. weB. Pour Pour this (his syrup syrup over the gooseberry cherries. Serve cold with sponge fingers. fingers. This This dish dish is is also aIse called Cherry soup soup d il I'anglaise. l'anglaise. COMPOTE DE DE cERrsEs CERISES - Prepare Prepare with compote. coMporE Cherry compote. in the same way way as as Apricot Apricol compote compote (see (sec stond cherries in COMPOTE). coMPoTE). Cherry Conde. Cond. cERrsEs CERISES coNDE COND - Prepare Prepare with with stoned stoned Cherry a vanilla syrup, like Apricots Apricots Condi Cond (see (sec cherries cooked in a APRICOT). APRTCOT). Cherry coupecoupe _. See Sec ICE CREAMS CREAMS AND AND ICES. ICES. Cherry Cherry crottes. croOtes. cRoOrBs CROTE5 Ar.x AUX cERrsEs CERISES - Prepare Prepare with Cherry slaned cherries cherries cooked cooked in in syrup, syrup, like like Apricot Apricol crofrte crote (see (see stoned APRICOT), APRTCOT). Cberry flrn Oan. nlN FLAN DE DE cBRrsEs CERISES - Pastry shell or flan case case Cherry made with with sweetened sweetened pastry, pastry, filled filled with with raw raw stoned stoned cherries, cherries, made and baked baked in in the the oven. oven. Cherry tarts tarIs or flans flans are are also also preand pdred with wi th crCme crme d ltalsacienne alsacienne or or d il laflamandc la flamande (se TARTS). friUers. BETcNBTS BEIGNETS Aux AUX cERrsEs CERf SES - Stone Stone the the cherries, cherries, Cherry fritters.

(l|

given to to various - Name given plants, tbe the ftowers flowers and and leaves leaves of which have the property property of plants, of (Galium verum) curdling mlk. milk. Yellow Yellow bedstraw bedstraw (Galium verum') is curdling is most most commonly used purpose. used for this purpose. commonly

CHEESE-RENI\IET. CAlLLE-LAlT cATLLE-LAIr CHEESE-RENNET.

CI{EF DE DE CUISINE responsible for for a a kitchen CHEF - Director responsible

(see COOKING). team (see COOKING). team The rle present-day chef de anisine corresponds to r6le of the present-day great houses in the old days, and de bouche bouche in great that of officier fficier de in even even cartier garnisons des earlier times times 10 to that that of maitre des of matre des garnisons ln grand-quanx. cuisines royales or grand-queux.

CHEMISER coat a a substance, substance. or a a mould, mould. with a CHEMISER a thin - To coal jelly. layer of aspic jelly. CHEMIST'S cHEvRxrrE CHEMIST'S JAR. CHEVRETTE - Oblong faience vase, with a and handle. In In the the old old days large mouth, projecting spout, and had the right to possess and only chemists chemiS1S (U.S. druggists) had exhibit this kil'ld kind of of vase in the windows of their shops. These exhibit jars red or green jars have been replaced replaced by glass jars jars filled filled with red coloured which chemists chemists stand in their windows, but stand in colaured water wbich these these ornaments are now tending to disappear too. loo. The word chevrette a kind of iron tripod Tbe chevre/le also denotes a tripod on which casseroles and marmites are stood. CHEI\IU applied to a wine mellowed by CHENU - Colloquial term tenn appled old age. CIIDRE CHRE - Word Word which used used to ta be be employed mostly in an expression eXr)re~;SI(m La La Fontaine Fontaine used, used, 'faire chire /ie', meaning 'to smile broadly', 'to welcome warmly'. wannly'. The expression expression is now l'lOW restricted to 10 the sense of 'offering a good meal', an an integral integral part pan of of any welcome. welcome. Nowadays Nowadays chire in French French is is a synonym offood. of food, CHERRY. a tree CHERRY. cERrsECERISE- Fruit of afa tree of of the Rosaceae Rosaceae family of which which the the numerous numerous varieties varieties stem stem from from two two primitive
species. species.

Tbe The wild cheruy or bird cherry, originating I"Irlo,r':1t,no in Persia and Armenia, from from which derive derive the the two IWO sweet sweet cherries,the the heart hean cherry cherry with soft flesh flesh and and coloured coloured juice, and and thewhiteheart the whilehean cherry cherry with with hard hard flesh flesh and colourless colourless juice. There There are are numerous numerous cultivated varieties, varieties, some some earlycarlyfruiting, which which ripen in May; May; others late-fruiting, late-fruiting, which which ripen in August or September. The whiteheart whiteheart cherries are arc usually considered the best dessert dessert f,ruits. fruits. The slightly slightly bitter bitter early English variety of cherry is is also also served served as as a dessert dessert fruit. The very bitter biller morello morello cherries are are used used industrially. ndustrially, French French cherries are are marketed marketed between between May and and July. July. Cherries Cherries are are one one of of the the most mast refreshing fruits. They They can can be be
216

CHESTNUTS
soak with liqueur liqueur and sugar, dip in light batter and fry. (See

FRTTTERS.) FRITTERS.) Cherry ice. cllct GLACE AUx AUX cERrsEs CERISES - Pound Pound I 1 litre (lf (li pints, generous generous quart) quart) stoned stoned cherries or or crush crush in in a a mortar mortar or blender. Add the pounded cherry kernels kemels to this pulp. Soak Soak the mixture for I 1 hour in I 1 litre (lf (J i pints, generous generous quart) quart) I lb., l* pints, generous syrup syrup - 450 450 g. ( (1 lb., 2 2 cups) cups) sugar sugar to I 1 litre litre ((Ii generous quart) water - flavoured flavoured with kirsch. kirsch. Pass Pass through a a fine sieve and add the juice juice of I 1 lemon. This preparation preparation should measure measure 2lo 21 on the syrup gauge. gauge. Freezn CREAMS Freeze the mixture in the usual way (see ICE CREAMS AND rCES). ICES). Cherry Cherry jam. jam. conrnuRE CONFITURE DE cERrsEs CERISES - Prepared Prepared with 750 g. (l* (li lb., 6 cups) lump sugar sugar for each I 1 ke. kg. QI (2t lb.) fruit. If If the fruit is not very sweet the jam jam is made made with an equal weight of of sugar sugar and fruit. (See JAM.) . Cherries CERISES JUBIIJ JUBIL - Simmer stoned cherries chernes Cherries jubilee. jubilee. cERIsEs in syrup. syrup. Drain and and put them into ovenproof dishes. dishes. Boil ~oil down down the the syrup syrup in in which which they they have cooked, cooked, add add a a little httle cornflour or arrowroot diluted with cold water, and and pour over over the the cherries. cherries. Add 1 tablespoon warmed kirsch to each dish and flame it at the moment moment of of serving. serving. Cherry meringue meringue tart or flan with with rice. rice. rI"lN FLAN DE DE cERIsEs CERISES lasnINcu6ls MERINGUES AU Rrz RIZ - Put Put a layer layer of of Dessert Dessert rice rice (see (see RICE) in a gratin gratin dish, dish, and add add a thick thick layer layer ofstoned of stoned cooked cooked cherries. cherries. Sprinkle sugar and top with with meringue. Decorate the top Sprinkle with sugar with arabesques arabesques in meringue meringue and and proceed proceed in in the same same way as for Apricots Apricots with rice rice and and meringue meringue (see (see APRICOT). APRICOT). Cherry mousse mousse - See ICE CREAMS CREA MS AND AND ICES. Cherry Cherry Cherry surcesauce - See See SAUCE, Dessert Dessert sauces. sauces. Cherry Cherry sorff6 souffl fritters fritters - See FRITTERS. FRITTERS. souffl Montmorency. Montmorency. sourni SOUFFL Atrx AUX cERrsEs, CERISES, Drr DIT Cherry soufl6 MoNrMoRENcy MONTMORENCY - Add 400 g. (14 oz,lf oz., li cups) cups) cherry cherry pur6e pure to 500 g. (18 (18 oz., oz., 2| 2t cups) sugar boiled in in I 1 litre litre (1| (Ii pints, 500 g. generous generous quart) water water to the crack stage. Fold in l0 10 stifly stiffly whisked egg egg whites. Make Make the the soufl6 souffl in the the usual usual way way (see (see SOUFFLE). SOUFFL). The The souffi6 souffl can can also also be be prepared prepared with with cream cream (see SOUFFL, Cremn Craon souffiCs). souffls). SOUFFLE, souffl. sourrrJ SOUFFL cuct GLAC Atrx AUX cERIsEs CERISES - Use the Cold cherry souffi6. preparation preparation for for lced Iced cherry cherry mausse(see mousse (see ICE ICE CREAMS CREAMS AND ANI? ICES). ICES). Tie a fold of of white paper round round the top of of a a. souffi6 sou~e distr dish to to reach reach 2l 2-t cm. cm. (l (1 inch) inch) above it, it, and and fill fil 1 with wlth this thiS mixture. mixture. souffl has set in the the refrigerator remove the Once the soufr6 paper. paper. . tart or flan. tlan. rl,,l,N FLAN DE DE cERrsEs CERISES A A r,l LA plNotse DANOISE Danish cherry tart Danish Fill a shell or flan flan case with with stoned cherries cherries a flaky pastry shell soaked in sugar sugar and sprinkled sprinkled with a pinch pinch of of cinnamon. cinnamon. soaked Coyer the the cherries cherries with a mixture of 100 g. (4 oz., * -t cup) Cover butter, 100 g. (4 oz., * -t cup) cup) sugar, 100 g. (4 oz., oz., I 1 softened butter, cup) ground ground almonds almonds and and 2 2 eggs. eggs. Bake tart or flan in the oven oyen at a moderate temperatemperaBake the tart Leave to cool, cover coyer with gooseberry gooseberry jelly, jelly, and glaze ture. Leave with rum. with rum. Cherries in vinegar. cERIsBs CERISES AU AU VINNGRE VINAIGRE - Remove the the Chenies from ripe ripe cherries. cherries. Put them in a glass glass jar, jar, alternating altemating stalks from stalks layers of cherries with with powdered sugar, a few few cloves, cloyes, and an? fragments of of cinnamon. cinnamon. Fill the the jar jar with with these these layers. laye.rs. Boil Bot! fragments white lemon rinds, rinds, cool, cool, and and pour pour into mto the the white wine wine vinegar vinegar with with lemon jar. jar. Seal Seal the the jar jar with with a a cork cork covered covered with with linen. linen.

as they contain contain an appreciable amount of poisonous as they an appreciable amount of hydrocyanic acid. hydrocyanic acid. CHER VIL. cERFEUIL CERFEUIL stitf stems and and curly CHERVIL. - Pot-herb with stiff
leaves, cultivated originating in Russia Russia and western western Asia and cultivated leaves, originating

from the beginning of the Christian era. era. It is used chopped for seasoning. seasoning. lVild Wild chervil which is called sweet sweet Cecily has darker, less denticulated, leaves and a more bitter flavour. flavour. Chervil, like denticulated, parsley, parsley, is rich in Vitamin C. CIIERVIS CHERVIS - Plant originating originating in China. The very sweet sweet and aromatic aromatic root was greatly sought after in the old days, but it is no longer much esteemed.
together in a prickly shell. A number of ~f chestnut chestn.ut varieties varieti~s improved by cultivation. The The species specles of ofwhiCh frUIt exist, improved which the fruit contains con tains only only a single single large large nut are called called marrons. marrons. According to an analysis analysis carried out by M. Baland, roast According chestnuts chestnuts (that (that is chestnuts chestnuts cooked dry) dry) retain retain 40 per per cent of their moisture; moi sture; boiled, boiled, they retain 70 per per cent. . their Dried chestnuts only only retain retain 12 12 to to 15 15 per per cent cent of their thelr Dried moisture moisture and contain contain as much nitrogen nitrogen as wheat. Chestnuts have considerable food value. value. l* l-t kg. kg. (3+ (3t lb.) an average supply sufficient calories to satisfy the needs of .an aver~ge person. person. Unfortunately Unfortunately chestnuts chestnuts also also contain conta.In. a high hlgh percentage percentage of starch, starch, which is is difficult difficult to to asslmIiate assimilate and them indigestible indigestible for for many many people. Moreover, the makes them small small quantities quantities of Vitamins Bl BI and and C C they they contain c~nt~in are cooking. On the other hand their thelr richness nchness destroyed during cooking. in mineral minerai salts (particularly calcium calcium and potassium) makes excellent food for growing growing children. children. them an excellent Chestnuts are are preserved preserved by drying, drying, and flour flour is made from Chestnuts which is white white with red red particles here here and them. This flour, which of the outer outer skin) in inferior inferior types, has a sweet sweet there (debris of agreeable smell, and and makes a non-elastic paste flavour, an agreeable when combined with water. It It is used used to to make make various dishes. when Briloli. Bri/oli. A kind of porridge made with chestnut flour to which milk milk or cream cream is added. added. which Castagnacci. Thick fritters, using using chestnut flour. Castagnaccf. Ferinana. This is briloli briloli with oil added. added. Ferinana. Pislicine. Pislicine. Cake Cake prepared prepared with with chestnut chestnut porridge porridge fermented flavoured with aniseed. yeast and flavoured with yeast Polenta. This is obtained obtained by by throwing throwing sieved sieved chestnut chestnut flour Polenta. boiling water and mixing with a spatula into lightly salted boiling the paste no longer longer adheres to the sides of of the cooking cooking until the Pour onto onto a floured floured cloth cloth and cut into slices. These are dish. Pour eaten as as they are, are, with with Broccio (Corsican (Corsican cheese), cheese), either eaten grilled, or fried. (See POLENTA.) POLENTA.)

CHESTNUTS. csArarcNss CHTAIGNES - Chestnuts grow grow two or three three CIIESTNUTS.

CIIERRY CHERRY BAY BAY (U.S. (U.S. CHERRY LAITREL). LAUREL). LAURTERLAURIERceRIsE-The CERISE- The leaves leaves of ofthis shrub emita emit a smell smell ofbitteralmonds ofbitter almonds this shrub when when they they are are rubbed rubbed between between the the fingers. fingers. They are used used to flavour creams of of various various kinds, kinds, but but must must be be used used sparingly sparingly flavour creams
217 217

Peeling Peeling chestnuts chestnuls on on domed domed facc face

(Claire) (Claire)

CHEVALER
porridge to Tourte. This This is a porridge is a which aniseed aniseed with with pine to wbich TourIe. poured into a kernels and and dried is poured dried raisins have been added. It is a kemels baking dish dish and cooked in the oyen. oven. haking peel chestnuts, To peel chestnuts, slit the surface chestnuts on slit the surface of of the the chestnuts on the the To a baking domed face. face. Put Put them in a with a a little little water. them in tin with baking tin domed Roast in in tbe the oyen oven for 8 8 minutes. Peeltbem Peel them while tbey they are still still hot. chestnuts as indicated above. Another method is to slil slit the chestnuts Another a few few at a a time, into boiling fat fat and deep-fry for 2 Put them, a minutes. Drain. Peel them them while they are still hot. bot. BAReuErrEs AUX barquettes BARQUETTES Aux MARRONS MARRoNS - Line Chestnut barquettes. Chestnut 1(see barquette tins witb with Fine dough 1 DOUGH). Bake barquelle Fine pastry paslry dough (see DOUGH). purle of marrons When they are ready, fill tbem blind. Wben them with a a pure glacis (or (or pure pur6e of chestnuts chestnuts cooked cooked in milk) flavoured with glacs kirsch. lce Ice the barquelles barquettes with kirsch-flavoured kirsch-flavoured Fondant icing kirscb. ICING). (see KING). chestnuts in MARRoNS BOlllLLlS BoUILL$ Boild chestnuts. MARRONS BoilOO - Put the chestnuts a pinch a saucepan and and coyer cover with with cold cold water. Season Season with a a a littte little celery, with a celery, star star anise, anise, Chinese and flavour flavour with salt and of salt any other spice. anise or any Cover and simmer simmer gently for 45 minutes Bring to the boil. Coyer chestnuts and serve wrapped in a I hour. Drain the chestnuts a folded to to 1 napkin, or in a wooden bowl covered with a napkin. napkin. Braised chestnuts. MARRONS MARRoNs eRArsfu chestnuts. BraisOO chestnut~. BRAISS Peel the the cbestnuts. - Peel a buttered dish. Put into Lay them flat in a ioto the middle of the bouquet garni with plenty of celery. celery. Season. Season. Pour in a dish a bouquel and veal stock. stock. Cover thin of concentrated veal Coyer the the pan pan and thi.n layer layer of cook in in the oven without without stirring, so so as the oven cook as not not to to break break the chestnuts. chestnuts. in this Chestnuts prepared in tbis way are used as a a garnish for various main dishes. compote. COMPOTE Chestnut coMporE DE Cook the Chestnut compote, DE MARRol.Is MARRONS - Cook chestnuts in a a light light syrup flavoured with vanilla. serve, chestnuts vanilla. To serve, pour the cooking syrup (boiled down if if necessary) over the chestnuts. ehestn uts. They can be served served either hot cold, and may be flavoured They bol or cold, with liqueur. liqueur. confection. pAtE Chestnut confection, Chestnut PT os DE MARRoNS MARRONS -- 'Shell the chestnuts, nuls, blanch, blancb, peel off the skin, pound in a stone slone mortar and clariff the weigh. Separately, Separately, clarify Ibe same amount of sugar, cooked offthe to ball bail degree. Take off the heat and mix with witb half half its weight of apricot of apricot jam jam or apple apple jelly. jelly. Stir, Stir, combine all the the ingredients, a slate slab or a metal of 2 or 3 spread on asiate met al sheet to a thickness thickness of lines (see WEIGHTS WEIGHTS AND AND MEASURES) and and put put into a oven until dry. On the following day, cut slow oYen eut into squares, lay lay out on on a sieve, sieve, turning tuming them tbem from from time time to time. time. When they tbey (le Confiseur Confiseur moderne.) are quite dry store in boxes.' (le moderne.) cRoeuETTEs DE Chestnut croquettes Chestnut croquettes. CROQUETTES DE MARRoNS MARRONS - Chop marrons glacisvery finely. Chestnuts marrons glacs very finely. Chestnuts boiled boiled in in milk sweetened with vanilla sugar may may also be used. used. Blend Blend with thick thick French French pastry paslry cream (see (see CREAMS). CREA MS). Spread the tbe mixture mixture on on a baking baking sheet. sheel. Leave Lea ve to cool. coo 1. Divide the mixture into small portions. portions. Flour Flour each eacb piece and dip in egg and freshly made breadcrumbs. Deep-fry in clarified butter. Serve Serve with with Apricot ApriCOI sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) clarified butter. flavoured flavoured with kirsch. coNrtruRr DE MARRoNS Chestnut Cheslnul jam. jam. CONFITURIJ MARRONS - Make Make a chestnut pur6e pure with with milk milk or water. water. Put it it in in a a bowl with an an equal egual weight of of sugar, a vanilla pod pod and I 1 dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seant ! cup) water to every I 1 ke. kg. Qt (2 lb.) lb.) of the mixture. Warm 1 gently, stirring constantly. constantly. The The jam jarn is ready ready if if it comes cornes away away from the bottom botlom of of the pan pan when when stirred. To ensure longer preservation, put put the jam jam in special special jars jars and sterilise as for bottled bottled fruit. fruil. Marrors Marrons glaces glacs - Marrons Marrons glacds glacs are first lirst preserved preserved and and then then glazed. glazed. This This is is a long long and intricate intricate process process and is is theretherefore fore seldom seldom undertaken undertaken in in the the home. home. Chestnut Mont-Blanc (sweet (sweet dessert). dessert). MoNT-BLANc MONT-BLANC AUX AUX
chestnuts, leaving the inner skin. Cover skin. Coyer - Shell the chestnuts, with water and bring to the hoil. boil. Remove the inner skin. skin. Sim mer the Simmer the chestnuts chestnuts unlil until soft in milk, milk, with with sugar and soft in sugar and vanilla. Drain and rub them a large them through a wire sieve over a ring baking tin, lined with the tin, so so that that the sides of of the tin tin are lined pur6e, which will look like vermicelti. sieved vermicelli. sieved pure, Tum Turn this horder a dish. it is quite cold, fil! fill border out onto a dish. When il (see CREAMS) flavoured the the centre centre with with Chan/illy cream (see Chantilly cream with vanilla. Shape Shape the cream into a dome. puneE DE puree. PURE DE MARRONS MARRoNs Chestnut Shell the the chestnuts, chestnuts, Chestnut pure. - Shell leaving the inner skin intact. Plunge Plunge them into boiling boiling water, and skin. in white white stock seasoned a lttle little drain, drain, and skin. Cook Cook in seasoned with a pur6e celery. Drain, and rub through a fine Warm Ihis through a fine sieve. Warm this pure a saucepan, stirring constantly. Just in in a Just before serving, serving, add fresh butter hutter and a a few few tablespoons fresh cream. puree soup or cream creamBROTHS, Chestnut purkesoupor -seeSOUPS see SOUPS AND BROTHS, Pure soups. Pur6e Chestnuts and rice. BORDURE BoRDURE DE MARRONS MARRoT{S AU RIZ RIz - Peel the chestnuts and cook in a a light light syrup flavoured with vanilla. vanilla. chestnuts and cook in pyramid surrounded by in a Drain, Drain, and and arrange arrange Ihem them in a pyramid by a prepared as for Apricols horderofrice Apricots Cond(seeAPRICOT). Conde (see APRICOT). border of rice prepared Decorate the the top and of the the horder border with with crystallised fruit fruit and top of (see SAUCE) sauce (see halved almonds. almonds. Serve with Apricot Apricol sauce halved Serve with flavoured with kirsch. Lightly eut a ring Roasl MARRONS GRILLS cut a Roa$ chestnuts. MARRoNS cRnrfs Lightly chestnuts. Roast them in a a pan round the chestnuts. pan on round on hot embers or all are are thoroughly the stove, tossing tossing them frequently so that that aH tboroughly on the cooked. Chestnut DE MARRoNs MARRONS - Make a Chestnut souffl. soufr6. SOUFFL sourrrj DE a chestnut puree with pure witb stock stock or milk, and use for a souffl, souffi6, proceeding as souffii (see SOUFFL). for PolalO souffi for Potato SOUFFLE). pouDrNG SOUFFL sorfi6. POUDING sourrrE AUX AUx MARRoNS Sweet chestnut souffl. MARRONS (2+ lb.) chestnul~ Peel 1 kg. (2i Peel I chestnuts and eook cook them in a light syrup, flavoured with vanilla. Add to this pur6e, pure, while stirring it on (5 oz., moisture, 150 g. g. (5 oz., generous the stove to evaporate the moisture, (4 oz.,i cup) fine sugar and ~cup) butter. and 100 g. (40z., cup) butter. i~cup) Remove the pan from the stove and and blend in 8 egg yolks. Whisk 6 egg whites until they are are very stiff. Blend them in at Whisk las! minute. minute. the last mixture into into a buttered mould. mould. Put Put the the mould in a Pour the mixture pan of Serve with custard (q.v.) (g.v.) of water and bake in the oven. Serve zabaglione (q.v.). or zabaglione garnish. umnoNs a garnish. StewOO chestnuts as as a MARRONS fruvps TuvS poun POUR Stewed chestnub GARNITURE bultered pan. chestnuts. Put them in a buttered cARMTURE - Peel the chestnul~. Coyer with clear vegetable dishes, Cover clear white stock (or, for fish or vegetable 1 teaspoon teaspOOl1 fine sugar and a with water). Add a pinch of of salt, I celery. stick of celery. Coyer and leave to simmer very Bring rapidly to the boil. Cover slowly for 45 minutes. slowly Serve Serve as indicated indicated in the recipe for the main dish. dish.
MARRONS MARRol.Is -

CHEVALER Term indicating the the symmetrical arrangearrangement of of the tbe various various elements elements of of a dish placed one upon the tbe other.
covered covered with wafer-thin wafer-tbin slices slices of of fat pork or butter, butter, on which wbich cbicken filets fi/els mignons mignons (breasts) (breasts) are are placed placed to give give them them a chicken correct shape while wh.ite cooking. cooking.

CHEVALET - A A slice of bread trimmed en en chevalet chevalet and and

CIIBVRET CHEV RET - See CHEESE. CHEESE.

CHEVRIER - A type of of haicotflageolet haricotfiageolel (bean) which which stays CHEVRIER-A green. Cultivated especially in the neighbourhood neighbourhood of of Arpajon, jon, it bears bears the the name name of of the originator originator of this this variety. variety. (See BEAN.) BEAN.) CHEVROTIN - See CHEESE. CHEESE. CHEYROTIN

CHEVROTTON CHEVROTTON DE DE MACON_ MACON - See See CHEESE. CHEESE.

2t8 218

CHICKEN

CHIANTI CHIANTI
wrNES.) WINES.)

Tuscany Tuscany wine. wine. (See (See INTERNATIONAL INTERNATIONAL

CHICHA CHICHA - Mexican Mexican and and Central Central American American alcoholic alcoholic
beverage beverage obtained obtained from from the the fermentation fennentation of of maize maize flour.

CHICKEN. CHICKEN. pouLETs, POULETS, pouLARDEs, POULARDES, voLATLLE vOLAILLE - Chicken Chicken is the generic generic term term used used to to describe the the barnyard barnyard fowl fowl and and includes everything from from the the very young young chicken (poussin) (poussin) to to c1udes everything the the large large hen hen suitable suitable only only for for the the stockpot. stockpot. The The young chickens chickens (poulet (poulet de de grain grain and poulet poulet de de reine) weigh from 600 600 to to 1800 1800 g. g. (l| (1 t to to 4lb.). 4 lb.). Poulet Poulet gras gras weigh weigh from 1800 1800 g. to 2 2 ke. kg. (a (4 to to 4| 4t lb.), lb.), and and fat fat hens hens or roasting roasting chicken chicken weigh from from 1800 1800 g. g. to to 3 3 kg. kg. (4 (4 to to 6+ 6! lb.) lb.) or more more and and are are called ca lied poulardes poulardes in in French. French. Recipes Recipes for for the the different different kinds kinds of chicken chicken are are grouped grouped together together in in alphabetical alphabetical order in this this section. section. A A good good poulet poulet has has tender tender flesh, flesh, elastic, elastic, but but not not flabby; flabby; the the feet feet can can be be black black or or white white according according to to the the breed, breed, but but never never yellow. The comb comb should should be be small small and and unformed, unformed, the the skin yellow. The loose loose and and white, white, and and the the parson's parson's nose nose white white or or pinkish pinkish with with a a knob knob offat of fat above above reaching reaching the the backbone. backbone. Chicken Chicken flesh flesh can can replace replace meat meat and and when when grilled grilled or or roasted roasted is is suitable suitable for for all aIl diets. diets. Chicken Chicken in in sauce. sauce, chicken with with mushrooms, mushrooms, or or creamed creamed chicken chicken are are less less so. so. Try to to avoid avoid buying'battery' buying 'battery' chickens. chickens. The The principal principal types types of of French French hens hens are are those those of of Bresse, Bresse, Houdan, Houdan, La La Fldche, Flche, Crdvecoeur, Crvecoeur, Barbezieux, Barbezieux, Faverolles Faverolles and and Le Le Mans. Mans. General General cooking cooking instructiore instructions for for chicken chicken - When Wh en braising braising chicken chicken there there should should be be as as little little as as possible possible of of cooking cooking liquid, liquid, so so as as not not to to dissipate dissipate the the delicate delicate flavour. flavour. Sauces Sauces accompanying accompanying braised braised fowl fowl are are made made with with the the liquor liquor in in which which it it was was cooked, cooked, strained, strained, all ail grease grease skimmed skimmed off, off, and and finished finished according according to to the the recipe. recipe. Boiled Boiled orpoached or poached chicken chickenis iscooked cooked in in white white stock stock (chicken (chicken or or veal) veal) or or in in a a light light beef beefstock. stock. A A savoury savoury stock stock can can be be made made with with the the neck, neck, head head and and crop, crop, and and the the feet, feet, cooked cooked in in water water with with aromatic aromatic vegetables vegetables and and the the usual usual seasonings. seasonings. Boiled Boiled chicken chicken is is accompanied accompanied by by white white or or light light sauce, sauce, made made with with the the liquor liquor in in which which it it was was cooked. cooked. A A white white roux roux should be be made made in in advance, advance, with with butter butter and and flour flour cooked cooked should gently gently together together without without colouring, colouring, and and moistened moistened with with sorne of ofthe the chicken chicken broth broth when when the the mixture mixture is is about about threethreesome quarters quarters cooked. cooked. Different ways ways of of finishing finishing these these sauces sauces are are given given in in the the Different Iist of of white white sauces sauces (see (see SAUCE, SAUCE, Compound Compound white white sauces). sauces). list Chicken baked baked in in butter butter (cooked (cooked in in the the oven oyen in in a a covered covered Chicken dish) is is accompanied accompanied by by the the cooking cooking juices juices skimmed skimmed of of fat, fat, dish) diluted, and and thickened. thickened. Cream Cream is is sometimes sometimes used. used. diluted, Chicken baked baked d la la Matignon Matignon is is accompanied accompanied by by the the Chicken juices diluted cookingjuices dilutedwith withwine, wine, blended blended with withveal veal or orchicken chicken cooking stock, and and bound bound with with rich rich brown brown sauce. sauce. The The garnish garnish for for a a stock, chicken dish dish is is either either cooked cooked with with the the chicken chicken or or prepared prepared chicken separately, according according to to the the recipe. recipe. separately, ln none none of ofthe the recipes recipes that that follow follow should should all ail the the sauce sauce be be In usedto tocoat coatthe thebird. bird.A A very verylittle little only only should should be be poured poured over over used it, and and the the rest rest served served separately. separately. it, Sorneinstructions instructionsfor forcooking cookinglarge large fowls fowls call cali for for stuffings stuffings Some andprepared preparedmixtures. mixtures. Recipes Recipesfor for these thesewill will be be found found under under and FORCEMEAT. FORCEMEAT. In garnished garnished chicken chicken dishes, dishes, particularly particularly those those served served at at In large dinners, dinners, the the bird bird is is often often left left whole. whole. This This calls calls for for a a Iarge decorative presentation. presentation. It It is is important, important, however, however, that that the the decorative garnish should should not not cancel cancel out out the the flavour flavour of of the the dish. dish. garnish Garnishesshould should be bearranged arrangedso so that that the thebird birdcan can be be quickly quickly Garnishes carved. Do Donot not set setall all the the accompaniments accompaniments on on the the main main dish dish carved. but use use only only a a small small part part as as a a garnish, gamish, and and serve serve the the rest rest but
219 2t9

separately when handing the sauce, all piping hot. separately In set the the fowl fowl on In making making an an ornamental arrangement set on a a base order to to keep keep it it separate separate from from the fried bread in in order base of fried garnish. garnish. To bake chickens and capons capons in in butter. Clean, truss To truss and and bard the bird. Put in a a heavy-bottomed heavy-bottomed pot, pour melted butter over it, season, and cook quickly few moments over a a good quickly for a a few heat. Finish oven, covered, covered, basting Finish cooking cooking in the oyen, basting frequently with its butter. Garnish Garnish according to the the recipe. recipe. Serve with its cooking cooking juices juices diluted according to the the particular recipe. To bake chickens chickens and capons capons d la Matignon. Matignon. Clean, draw, truss and bard the bird. Put it in a a pan whose base is lined with Matignon Matignon (q.v.) half-cooked half-cooked in butter. butter. Pour Pour melted butter over, season, and cook covered in the oven, frequently with its butter. butter. oyen, basting frequently When the chicken is cooked and golden brown, moisten with concentrated veal or chicken stock and baste with this juice. juice. Garnish and and serve serve with with its its own own cooking cooking juice, juice, diluted according according to the recipe. recipe. (old style). To To bake bake chickens chickens and capons d la la Matignon Matignon (old Crisp in butter the the flesh flesh of a fowl prepared as as for braising. Crisp Coyer it it in a thick thick layer of of Matignon Matignon (q.v.); bard and wrap it Cover a sheet sheet of of buttered paper. Cook Cook in the oven oyen or on the spi t. in a spit. Unwrap the the chicken, chicken, take take off the the bard bard and and remove remove the Unwrap Matignon. Put Put the bird bird in a saucepan, saucepan, pour over Madeira. Madeira. Matignon. Boil down down the the liquid liquid and and add add veal stock that has been boiled boilcd Boil down and and thickened. thickened. Remove Remove all ail fat and strain. down Garnish according according to to the the recipe recipe and serve serve with its cooking cooking Garnish liquor. liquor. recipes given given below below can can be be augmented by by serving serving The recipes braised, boiled boiled or baked baked chicken chicken with different vegetables, vegetables, braised, with pasta pasta and and with with other other garnishes. garnishes. with

Braised chicken chic ken Braised

To braise braise chickens chickens and and capons. capons. Draw, Draw, singe, singe, clean c1ean and and truss truss To
the bird. bird. Dip Dip it it for for a a moment moment into into boiling boiling stock stock to to solidify solidify the the flesh, flesh, then then lard lard the the breast breast with with bacon bacon fat, fat, truffies, truffies, or or the tongue. tongue. Coyer the the breast breast with with a a bard bard of of bacon bacon fat fat big big enough enough to to Cover protect this this delicate delicate part part of of the the bird bird during during cooking cooking so so that that protect it does does not not become become too too dry. dry. Brown Brown the the chicken chicken in in a a hot hot oven, oyen, it and then then put put it it into into a a heavy heavy braising braising pan pan with with the the ingredients ingredients and used for for braising braising white white meat meat (see (see CULINARY CULlNARY METHODS, METHODS, used Braising). Braising). Pour in in the the liquid liquid indicated indicated in in the the recipe, recipe, bring bring to to the the boil, boil, Pour coyerthe thepot, pot, return return to to the the oven oyen and and cook, cook, basting basting frequently. frequently. cover Drain the the chicken, chicken, remove remove the the bard bard and and trussing trussing string string Drain and glazn glaze in in the the oven, oyen, basting basting it it with with the the cooking cooking liquor. liquor. and Set it it on on a a slice slice of of fried fried bread bread (or (or directly directly onto onto the the plate), plate), Set garnish, and and serve serve it it with with a a sauce sauce containing containing the the liquid liquid in in garnish, was cooked. cooked. which it it was which

CHICKEN CHICKEN
How Howto totruss trussaachicken chicken

1. Pierce Pierce with with threaded threaded trussing trussing needle needle the the left left thigh, thigh, the the breast breast and and the the right right t. thigh thigh

2. 2. Lay Lay the the chicken chic ken on on its its left left side side and and sew sew through through the the right right wing wing

3. back and pierce the left wing. wing. pierce the the back side; cross cross the is on on its its right right side; The chicken chicken is 3. The

tie !hem them ofstring 4. Bring Bring the two ends of 4. string together and tie

5. the and under under the part of the drumsticks drumsticks and lower part of the the lower Pass the needle through through the 5. Pass the needle breast right from left left to to right breast from

right to to left left from right part of body from pierce the lower part of the the body the lower Next pierce 6. 6. Next

7. the string tiethem them andlie ofthe stringand endsof Pullthe thetwo twoends 7.Pull

roast braiseor orroast tobraise readyto trussed, ready andtrussed, bardedand 8. Chicken 8. Chickenbarded

220 220

CHICKEN CHICKEN
Carving Carving a chicken chicken into portions portions

l. Raw chicken: dlicken: first remove remove the the right right leg L

2. Remove Remove the the right right wing wing

3. Place chicken on right side and rem ove the left leg remove

Remove the left wing 4. Remove

5. 5. Cut Cut away away the fl1lets fillets on eilher either side side

in half half 6. Cut Cut the the carcase carcase in 6.

7. 7. Roast Roast chicken is eut in the the same same way. way. cut up up in chicken is

in half A sm can he be eut cut in halflengthwise 8. A srnall chicken can 8. ail chicken lengthwise

22r 221

CHICKEN
To poach poach or boil chickens chickens and and capons. Clean and truss the

bird. bird. Rub the the breast and legs with a slice of of lemon to keep
them white. white.

Lard or stud stud the the breast with fat. fat. Cover with wilh a bard bard of bacon bacon fat. fat. Bring Dring to to the boil boil in white white stock stock and cook cook quickly quickly for for a few moments. moments. Skim, Skim, cover coyer the the saucepan, saucepan, and simmervery simmer very slowly. slowly. To test test whether wh ether the chicken is is cooked, prick prick a fleshy fleshy part part with wi th the point of of a knife. knife. If If a clear clear juice juice escapes esca pes it is is done. done. Drain Drain the the chicken, then remove remove the bard bard and the the trussing trussing
string. Garnish and and serve with with a white white sauce to which which is is added added some of of the the liquor liquor in in which which the the chicken chicken was was cooked. Chicken Chicken i I'allemande. J'allemande. poULARDE POULARDE A t',qneMnNoE L'ALLEMANDE - Poach Poach the the chicken in in white stock. Coat Coat with with Allemande Allemande sauce (see (see SAUCE) SA U CE) to to which which part part of of the the boiled-down boiled-down cooking liquor 1iq uor has been added. added. Chicken Chickeo Ambassadrice. Arnbas."adri ce. poULARDE POULARDE AMBASs^A.DRrcE AMBASSADRICE - Stuff the the chicken chic ken with a mixture mixture of of lambs' lambs' sweetbreads, sweetbreads, truffies truffies and and mushrooms mushrooms bound bound with with Velouti Velout sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Cook Cook it it covered, covered, in in the the oven, oyen, d il la /0 Matignon. Matignon. Surround with with pastry pastry cases cases filled filled with with saut6ed sauted chicken livers, truffie heated livers, cocks'combs cocks' combs and kidneys. kidneys. Put Put a slice of oftruffie heated in in butter butter on on each. each. Coat Coat the the chicken chicken with with the the cooking cookng juices juices diluted with with Madeira Madeira and and thickened thickened brown brown veal veal stock. stock. Chicken Chic ken i I'andalouse. l'andalouse. poULARDE POULARDE A r'ANoAlousr L'ANDALOUSE - Stuff the the chicken chicken with wi th rice rice mixed mixed with wi th small small pieces pieces of of lean lean ham ham and and seasoned seasoned with with paprika. paprika. Cook Cook in in butter butter in in a a heavy heavy pan, pan, adding adding (for (for flavouring) flavouring) one one large large onion and and a a bouquet bouquet garni garni (q.v.). Serve Serve garnished garnished d I'andalouse tanda/ouse (q.v.). (q.v.). Surround Surround the the chicken chicken with with this trus garnish garnish and sprinkle sprinkle with with juices diluted its its cooking cookingjuices diluted with with white white wine, wine, to to which which thickened thickeoed brown brown veal veal gravy gravy and and tomato tomato pur6e pure have have been been added. added. Chicken Chicken i I'anversoise. l'anversoise. poULARDE POULARDE A r'ANveRsorsn L'ANVERSOISE - Stuff Stuff the Hop shoots shoots (see (see HOPS) HOPS) in in cream. cream. Simmer Simmer in in the chicken chicken with with Hop butter butter in in a covered covered dish dish until until the the bird bird is three-quarters three-quarters cooked. cooked. Transfer Transfer to to a a casserole casserole with with 400 400 g. g. (14 (14 oz.) oz.) potatoes, pOlatoes, lightly lightly fried fried in in butter. butter. Complete Complete cooking cooking in in the the oven. oyen. Pour Pour a a small small quantity quantity of of the the pan pan juices, juices, diluted diluted with with white white wine wine and and thickened thckened rich rich brown brown veal veal gravy, gravy, over over the the chicken. chicken. Serve Serve in in the the casserole. casserole. Chicken Chicken in in aspic. aspic. IoULARDE POULARDE EN EN Asprc ASPIC - Cut Cut the the breast breast and and wings wings of of a a cold, cold, boiled boiled chicken chicken into into thin thin slices, slices, and and coat coat with with White White chaud-froid chaud-froid sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Decorate Decorate with with trufres trumes andglaze and glaze with with chicken chicken jelly. jelly. Set Set these these pieces pieces in in an an aspic aspic mould mould that that has has been been lined lined with with a a layer layer of of jelly. jelly. Fill Fill the the middle middle of of the the mould mould with with Chicken Chicken mousse (see MOUSSES) MOUSSES) made made of of the the flesh flesh of of the the chicken chicken legs legs mousse (see with with the the addition addition of offoie foie gras. gras. Fill Fill the the mould mould with with the the aspic aspic jelly, jelly, leave leave to to cool, cool, and and chill chill on on ice. ice. Turn Tum out out onto onto a a dish, dish, or or raised raised on on a a crofiton croton of of bread. bread. Garnish Garnish with with chopped chopped jelly. jelly. Chicken I'Aurora. l'Aurora. poULARDE POULARDE A r'lunope L'AURORE - Poach Poach the the Chicken il chicken chicken in in white white stock. stock. Coat Coat with with Aurora Aurora sauce salice (ser, (see SAUCE) SAUCE) to to which which has has been been added added a a small small quantity quantity of of the the boiled-down boiled-down cooking cooking liquor. liquor. with cream Stuff Stuffwith cream Quenelle Quenelleforcemea( (see FORCEMEAT) FORCEMEAT) for cemeat (see flavoured flavoured with with strong strong tomato tomaLO pur6e. pure. Chicken Chicken ballottines. baUottines. BALLorrrNEs BALLOTTINES DE DE VoLATLLE VOLAILLE - Use Use either either a a whole whole boned boned chicken, chicken, filled filled with with stuffing, stuffing, rolled rolled in in a a ballottine ballottine and and braised braised or or poached poached (see (see BALLOTTINE), BALLOITINE), or or legs legs of of large large chickens chickens prepared prepared in in the the same same manner. manner. The The latter latter are are usually usually called called Jambonneaux Jambonneaux de de volaille. volaille. Chicken Ch.icken I la la banquiire. banquire. pouLARDn POULARDE A r,c, LA s.A,NeuriRE BANQUIRE - Stuff Stuff the the chicken chicken with with rice rice half-cooked half-cooked in in white white stock stock mixed mixed with with 2 2 tablespoons ta blespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) ta blespoons) diced diced trufres. tmffles. Poach Poach in in white white stock. stock.
222 222

Surround quenelles (q.v.) (q.v.) of of chicken chicken forcemeat, Surround with with quenel/es mushrooms mushrooms and thick slices slices of of trufres. truffles. Coat with Banquiire Banquire sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). sauce (see Boiled Boiled chlcken chlcken I'anglaise l'anglaise I. roULARDE POULARDE pocufn POCHE A L'ANcLAISE L'ANGLAISE - Poach in in white white stock. stock. Surround Surround with with small slices of tongue, tongue, and and with with small small mounds mounds of celery, peas, peas, slices carrots in water. carrots and turnips turnips cooked in Boiled Boiled chicken chicken I'anglaise l'anglaise rI. IoULARDE POULARDE pocHsr pocHE A L'ANGLIISE L'ANGLAISE - Poach Poach in water water with with a carrot carrot cut eut in quarters, an onion herbs and wellonion stuck stuck with with a a clove, clove, a bunch bunch of ofherbs and a a piece piece of ofwellbalanced lean bacon bacon weighing weighing 400 g. (14 oz.). oz.). balanced Surround Surround with with the the bacon bacon cut cut in in squares. Serve Serve with with Parsley Pars/ey sauce sauce (see SAUCE) SA U CE) and and chicken cbicken broth. broth.

I.

II.

pourl.nop Boiled Boiled chicken chicken I'anglaise l'anglaise POULARDE pocrcs pocIiE A L'ANGLAISE - Poach Poach the the chicken in in white white stock with small L'ANGLAISE carrots, carrots, pieces pieces ofturnip of tumip cut cut into ioto balls, balls, and and celery celery hearts. hearts.

m. III.

Surround with with these these vegetables, vegetables, adding adding cooked cooked French French
beans beans and and cauliflower. cauliflower.
Serve Buller sauce sauce (Se, (see SAUCE), SA UCE), capers capers and and chicken Serve with with Butter broth. broth. Chicken Chicken i la la bonne bonne femme. femme. poULARDE POULARDE A rA LA noNNe BONNE FEMITE fEMMECook Cook the the chicken, chicken, covered covered in in butter, butter, in in the the oven. oyen. When When it it is is half-cooked half-cooked add add 5 5 rashers rashers blanched. blanched, diced lean lean bacon. bacon, and and 20 20 small small onions. onions. Cook Cook in in the the oven oyen for for 15 15 minutes. minutes. Add Add 500 500 g. g. (generous (generous I1 lb.) lb.) small small potatoes. potatoes. Finish Finish cooking cooking all aU together, together, basting basting frequently. frequently. Put Put the the chicken chicken and and its its garnish garnish in in a a cocotte cocotte or or on on a a platter. platter. Add Add 4 4 tablespoons tablespoons (* (i cup) cup) thickened thickened brown brown veal veal gravy gravy to to the the cooking cooking butter buttcr and and pour pour over over the the chicken. chicken. Chicken Chicken bouch6eg bouches, canapdg canaps, cro0tes CfOC.tes and and tartelettes tartelettes - All Ali these these are are filled filled with wth a a salpicon sa/pican (q.v.) of of poultry poultry finished finished off off with with truffies, trumes, mushrooms mushrooms or or other other ingredients ingredients and and bound bound with with a a white white or or brown brown sauce. sauce. Chicken Chicken boudim boudins I la la Richelieu. Richelieu. BouDINs BOUDrNS oE DE voturtr.q, VOLAILLE r-rq, LA RIcI{ELIEU RICHELIEU * - Line Line small, small, well-buttered well-buttered moulds moulds with with Chicken Chicken forcemeat d la /a crime crme (see (see FORCEMEAT). FORCEMEAT). Fill Fill the the moulds moulds forcemeat with with a a salpicon sa/picon (q.v.) (q.v.) of of breast breast of of chicken, chicken, truffies truffies and and mushmushrooms, rooms, blended blended with with very very thick thick Allemande Allemande sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Cover Cover with with another another layer layer of of chicken chicken forcemeat, forcemeat, which which should should be be well well smoothed smoothed over over with wilh the the blade blade of of a a knife knife dipped dipped in in cold cold water. water. Place Place the the moulds moulds in in a a baking baking tin tin of of hot hot water water in in the the oven, oven, and and poach. poach. When When cooked, cooked, turn tum out out of of the the moulds, moulds, dry, dry, dip dip in in egg egg and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and fry fry in in clarified clarified butter bUller until until light light golden. golden. Arrange Arrange in in a a turban turban shape shape on on a a dish, dish, packing packing them them in in tightly. tightly. Garnish Garnish with with fried fried parsley. parsley. Serve Serve with with Pirigueux Prigueux sauce or SuprAme Suprme sauce SQlIce with with diced diced truffies truffies added added to to it it (see (see sauce or SAUCE). SAUCE). Chicken Chicken i la la bourgeoise. bourgeoise. pour,c,nor POULARDE A LA LA BoURGEOTSE BOURGEOISE Cook Cook the the chicken chicken in in butter butter in in a a covered covered casserole casserole in in the the oven. oyen. When When half-cooked half-cooked add add 5 5 rashers rash ers of of diced diced lean lean bacon, bacon, 20 20 small small onions onions and and 20 20 small small carrots. carrots. Finish Finish cooking cooking all all totogether, gether, basting basting frequently. frequently. Dilute Dilute the the cooking cooking juices juices with with white white wine wine and and thickened thickene'd veal veal gravy, gravy, pour pour over over the the chicken chicken and and garnish. garnish. Chicken Chicken i la la bourguignonne. bourguignonne. IoULARDE POULARDE A re LA souncurcBOURGUIGNoNNE NONNE - Brown Brown 5 5rashers rashers blanched blanched lean lean bacon bacon in25 in 25 g. g. (l (l oz., oz., 2 2 tablespoons) tablespoons) butter. butter. Add Add 20 20 small small onions onions and and 20 20 sliced sliced mushrooms. mushrooms. Take Take these these out out and and brown brown the the chicken chicken in in the the same same butter. butter. Remove Remove the the chicken. chicken. Dilute Dilute the the juices juices with with 4 4 dl. dl. (* (: pint, pint, scant seant 2 2 cups) cups) red red wine wine and and boil boil down down by by half. half. Add Add 4 4 dl. dl. (* G pint, pint, scant seant 2 2 cups) cups) brown brown graW, gravy, cook cook at at boiling boiling point point for for 5 5 minutes minutes and and add add a a bouquet bouqlle! garni garni (q.v.). (q.v.). Put Put the the chicken chicken back back in in the the pan. pan. Cook Cook gently gently for for 20 20 minutes. minutes. Add Add the the bacon. bacon, onions onions and and mushrooms mushrooms and and concontinue tinue cooking cooking for for 45 45 minutes minutes to to I1hour. hour.

CHICKEN CHICKEN
Remove the bouquet and pour the bouquet garni and the sauce over over the chicken. brochettes. BRocITETTES BROCHETTES DE DE VoLAILLE VOLAILLE - Thread Thread Chicken brochettes. of chicken on metal skewers alternately alternately with pieces pie ces of slices of lean bacon and mushrooms. Coat in egg and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs grill. and grill. Chicken broth broth @nglistr (English and and American American cookery) cookery) - See CNcken SOUPS AND BROTHS. SOUPS Chicken capilotade. pouI"Er POULET EN EN cAprLorADE CAPILOTADE - Use Use leftChicken of boiled, braised, or roasted roasted chicken cbicken for this dish. dish. overs ofboiled, Take Take the the chicken chicken off the the bones, bones, cut cut in in thin slices, slices, and simmer in in a a sauce sauce such such as as Chasseur, Italian, Italian, Portuguese, Portuguese, simmer Provengal, SA UCE). Provenal, etc. (see SAUCE). POULARDE EN EN cAssERorr CASSEROLE - Put Put the Chicken casserole. casserole. poULARDE Chicken chicken, chicken, trussed trussed for for boiling boiling and and seasoned seasoned with with salt salt and pepper, pepper, in a casserole in which some sorne butter butter has been melted. melted. Cook in the oven oyen at a good heat. Cook Pour 4 to 5 tablespoons thickened rich brown veal stock dish. over the dish. POULARDE EN Chic ken casserole casserole I la la bonne bonne femme. femme. poULARDE Chicken LA BONNE FEMME - As As above, adding to the CASSEROLE cAssERoLE A r,c, soNl.rE FEMIVTE adding to in butter, butter, small chicken, when wh en it has been been well weil browned browned in chicken, it has been pieces of blanched lean bacon, small onions that have been tossed pieces. tossed in butter, butter, and potatoes potatoes cut cut into pieces. (brown). rouranon Chicken with celery (brown). POULARDE AUX - Cook lux CLERIS cfrnnn-Cook Chickenwitlr ken in butter in a covered casserole in the oyen. oven. chicken the chic Surround with braised, braised, quartered celery hearts. Dilute the cooking juices with white wine wine and and thickened brown veal grary, and gravy, and pour over the bird. Alternatively, the chic ken may be braised with blanched chicken celery. lux CLERIS c6lsns -- As POULARDE AUX Chicken with celery celery (white). IoULARDE chicken with braised Chicken braised for Chicken d l'allemande. I'allemande. Surround the chicken (see SA celery. Pour Allemande sauce (see UCE) over it. Pow Allemande SAUCE) eourenor A LA r,c, CHANTILLY Chicken cHlNiluv -- Stuff i la Chantilly. POULARDE truffies or or diced rice mixed mixed with truffies the the chicken with with cooked cooked rice foie gras. Cook butter, in a a covered dish in the oyen, oven, but Cook in butter, foie gras. do not allow to brown. in port wine, Surround with with large whole truffies truffes cooked in grar lightly and slices of lightly fried fried in butter. and foie gras butter. Dilute the pan of foie juices with white stock, add tbick Velouti sauce (see juices thick chicken Velout few tablespoons and simmer down by half. half. Add a a few tablespoons SAUCE) and whipped cream and pour over the chicken. Detach the breasts. Trim Trim and flatten them them a little, little, stud with
pieces tongue and truffies, and put them oftongue them in in a buttered buttered dish. dish. pieces of

Cook the four leg joints, joints, the ends ends of the wings and and the divided carcases as fricasse. Drain and wipe the leg as for a fricassie. joints, breadcrumbs, and fry in clarified clarified joints, coat with egg and breadcrumbso butter. butter. Arrange the and wingtips in a a pastry pastry the pieces of carcase and case. Pour Pour over them the strained strained fricassde fricasse sauc. sauce. joints on top of Place the leg of the carcases carcases and between between each legjoints leg put put a wing. Poach Poach the breasts and place on top. top. Serve with the rest of the the fricassie fricasse sauee. sauce. to which mushrooms and truffies have been added. added. Chicken Chicken chipolata. chipolata. IoULARDE POULARDE cHIpoLATA CHI POLA TA - Braise Braise the chicken with a garnish garnish of of chipolata chipolata chicken in brown brown gravy. Surround with sausages sausages (see (see GARNISHES). GARNISHES). Pour the the pan juices juices diluted with Madeira Madeira and mixed with Rich Rich brown brown sauce (s*, (see SAUCE) SA UCE) over the dish. dish. Chicken I POULARDE A ur LA cstvRv CHIVRY - Poach the la Chivry. Chivry. IoULARDE chicken in white stock. Surround Surround with artichoke bottoms bottoms garnished with with asparagus asparagus tips or or fresh fresh peas. peas. Pour Chivry (se SAUCE) over the chicken. sauce (see For a variation, serve the chicken with with Chivry sauce sauce and and mixed vegetables served separately. separately. I la Clamart. Chicken Clamart. PoULARDE POULARDE A r.e, LA cllrrannr CLAMART - Halfas for boiling. Add cook in butter a chicken trussed as cook Add I 1 litre (lf, pints, generous quart) fresh peas d lafrangaisewhich lafranaise which have (land finish been cooked. Cover been three-quarters cooked. Coyer with with a a lid lid and cooking in the oyen. cooking oven. prepared in are called Small chickens chickens prepared same way in the the same way are Small
poulets Clamart.. poulets d la Clamart

(oints) Chaud-froid of Chaud-froid of cbicken chicken (joints)

voI-Arr-r-E -- A DE VOLAILLE chicken. CHAUD-FROID Chaud-froid of of chicken. cHAUD-FRoID DE joints of cold entre. in a a flour-and-water flour-and-water cold entrCe. Poach Poach joints of chicken chicken in stock, drain, drain, and and coat with white white or brown- Chaud-froid stock, coat with or brown (see SAUCE). glazed in jelly. sauce (see SAUCE). Decorate with truffies, glazed poULARDE A LA r,c, CHEVAURE Chicken Chicken chevali&re. POULARDE cHEvarGnr -- Take Take i la chevalire. pieces of off off the wings wings of 2 chickens. chickens. Trim, Trim, and and insert insert small of 2 small pieces of Braise in bacon fat under the skin. in Madeira-flavoured Madeira-flavoured stock. skin. Braise stock. 223 223

in cocotte. cocotte. poULARDE cocorrE Chicken in Chicken POULARDE EN EN COCOTTE - Chicken Chic ken receptacle. cooked in a pot or casserole and served served in the the same receptacle. cooked coMporE chicken Chicken compote. pouI.Er POULET EN COMPOTE Chicken - Truss the cbicken (see as for for boiling. for Compote Compote of of pigeon boiling. Prepare Prepare as as for pigeon (see as PIGEON). BROTHS. consomm6 SOUPS AND BROTHS. Chicken consomm Chicken - See SOUPS DE VOLAILLE voLAILLE Chicken c0telettes. CTELETTES cdrsl-rrrEs DE Under Chic ken ctelettes. nder this -U name are known known the following: poultry removed l. Breasts Breasts of removed when when raw raw and and cooked of poultry 1. separately, to be served as a small entre. entrie. separately, 2. Croquettes made made with with a a chicken chicken croquette croquette mixture, mixture, 2. into the in egg and the shape of cutlets, coated coated in and breadformed into crumbs, and fried in butter. Variety of of quenelles made with a poultry forcemeat and and 3. Variety 3. a special mould. poached in a a small To prepare chicken breasts. Remove the breasts of a a fat fat hen after having taken off offthe roasting chicken or a the skin. joint. Flatten ligbtly. lightly. Leave the wingtips on the joint. To cook l'anglaise. Season Season the citelettes, cook in in butter butter d l'anglaise. the ctelettes, To and breadcrumbs, and sprinkle with with flour, flour, coat coat with with egg egg and sprinkle cook in clarified butter butter.. Garnish and add sauce according to the recipe. Chicken ctelettes may be coated with with breadcrumbs to citelettes may be coated Chicken chopped truffies or other ingredients have been added. which chopped To cook Season the citelettes, brush with cook d blanc, or poach. Season the ctelettes, To flat in a a buttered saut saut pan. Add melted butter, and lay them fiat juice; coyer and cook for for 6 to a few few drops of lemon lemon juice; cover the the pan and a a very hot oyen. oven. 8 minutes in a Garnish and and add sauce according to to the recipe. The cooking must be cooking of chicken ctelettes cbtelettes d blanc blanc must be done The The liquid liquid must be without boiling. but without boiling. The extremely rapidly but juice indicated above. drops of lemon juice above. limited to the few drops To cook cook in in butter butter d brun. brun. Season Season the the ctelettes, cbtelettes, sprinkle sprinkle To quickly saut with flour flour and and quickly in clarified clarified butter. butter. Cook Cook very very saut6 in with pieces are liable to lightly as as these are extremely delicate and and liable these pieces extremely delicate lightly if over-cooked. over-cooked. become tough if Garnish and and add add sauce according to the recipe. Put paper sauce according to the Garnish frills on on the the ends. ends. friUs

CHICKEN CHICKEN
Cdtelettes are are served served on on crotons, croOtons, vegetables, vegetables, etc, etc. Ctelettes Chicken ctelettes cOtelettes A l'anglaise. I'anglaise. CTELETTES cOTELETTES DE or VOLAILLE vorllrrr A Chicken L'.a,NGLaIsr - Season Season and and coat coat the the ctelelles citelettes in in egg egg and and L'ANGLAISE breadcrumbs. Saut Saut6 in in butter. green vegetable butter. Garnish Garnish wi with a green vegetable breadcrumbs, th a in butter. butter. Serve Serve wi with gravy. tossed in thickened brown brown veal veal gravy. tossed th thickened Chicken ctelettes cdtelettes Helder. Helder. CTELETTES cOTELETTEs DE DE VOLAILLE VoLATLLE Chicken IIELDER _. Cook the garnish with the ctelettes citelettes blanc. Dish d blanc. Dish and and garnish with HELDER - Cook (q.v.) of a salpicon salpicon (q,v,) of carrots, carrots, artichoke artichoke bot bottoms, trufres and and a toms, trumes mushrooms eooked cooked slowly slowly in in butter. butter. mushrooms (see SAUCE) Coat with with rich chicken Velout Velouti sauce rich chicken sauce (see SAUCE) Coat juice. Add diluted witb with 1 I tablespoon tablespoon tomato tomato juice, Add strained strained butter. butter. diluted Chickm ctelettes cOtelettes marchale. marechale. CTELETTF,S c6rErerrEs DE DE VOLAILLE voLATLLE Chicken rr,llnEcn,ll.r - Coat Coat the cbtelettes with the ctelettes with egg and breadegg and breadMARCHALE crumbs, adding adding to to the breadcrumbs a a third the breadcrumbs third oftheir of theirvolume of crumbs, volume of chopped trumes. truffies. Saut Saut6 in in butter. butter. chopped Top each each ctelelle citelette with with slices slices of of trumes, truffies, and and sprinkle sprinkle with with Top (see BUTTER, Noisette buller butter (sec BUTTER, Compound Compound bUllers), butters'). Noiselle Chicken crpinettes crdpinettes See CRPINETTES, CREPINETTES. Chicken - See pourrr la crllpaudine. Chicken la A LA CRAPAUDINE crapaudine. POULET cRApAr,JDrNE Chlcken Prepareo using using a a small roasting chicken, chicken, as as Pigeon small roasting Pigeon d la la Prepare, (see PIGEON), crapaudine (sec PIGEON). crapaudine croquettes. CROQUETTES Chicken croquettes. cRoeuETTEs DE DE VOLAILLE VoLATLLE Chicken - Combine (see finely chopped chopped chicken chicken with with thick Velouti sauce sauce (see thick Velout finely yolk and SAUCE). Bind Bind with with an an egg and season egg yolk season weil well with with salt, salt, SAUCE), juice. Cool pepper and lemon juice. and lemon Make into Cool thoroughly. thoroughly. Make into small small pepper oval croquettes, croquettes. Coat Coat with with beaten egg egg and fine fine breadcrumbs oval and fry fry in in deep deep fat. fat. and pouuRDE AUX Chicken with with cucumber. cucumber. POULARDE Aux CONCOMBRES coNcoMBREs Chicken Follow recipe recipe for for Chicken Chicken d l'allemande, l'allemande. Sur Surround with Follow round with cucumber cut cut in in chunks chunks and and simmered simmered in in butter. butter. Pour over cueumber (see SAUCE), Allemande sauce (see SAUCE). Allemande sauce (Plunerey's recipe). CARI curry (plumerey's Chicken curry 'Toss cARr DE pouLET Chlcken POULET - 'Toss (generous in g. (generous chickens eut cut in in pieces 500 g, in butter butter two two chickens pieces with with 500 I lb,) lb.) of uncooked ham and eut of uncooked cleaned of of salt and cut in dice. Add Add a a 1 ham cleaned in dice, good tablespoon tablespoon Ilour flour and and moisten moisten with stock. good with light light veal veal stock. (q.v.) and garni (q.v,) Add also a a bouquet bouquet garni and two curry Add also two teaspoons leaspoons curry powder. powder. 'After it sauce without 'After it is is cooked, cooked, boil bail down down the the sauce without thickening thickening it It should look like should look like a il too too much. much. 11 a pale pale espagrnle espagnole sauce, lightly coloured coloured with saffron.' Serve Serve with lightly with saffron.' with Indian Indian style rice. rice, (Mont-Bry's recipe). Chickm clru DE Chicken curry curry (Mont-Bry's recipe). CARI DE pouI.Er POULET 'Draw, a medium-sized chicken. Divide Divide each 'Draw, pluck pluck and and joint joint a medium-sized ehicken. joint 4 pieces joint into into 3 3 or or 4 pleces (whur (when cutting cutting up up chicken joints joints be careful careful not not to to splinter splinter the the bones bones into into tiny tiny fragments). fragments). Cook Cook in in butter butter 2 2 chopped-up chopped-up onions, onions, 100 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz.) oz,) ham ham cut small pieces, eut in in small pieces, and and 2 2 peeled peeled and and chopped chopped eating apples all seasoned seasoned with all with crushed crushed garlic, garlic, thyme, bay leaf, leaf, cinnamon, cinnamon, cardamom cardamom and and powdered powdered mace. mace, Add Add the chicken pieces. pieces, 'When 'When quite quite firm, firm, shake shake them them about about without without letting letting them colour colour too 100 much, mueh, and and sprinkle sprinkle them with with 2 teaspoons teaspoons curry curry powder. powder. Add Add 2 2 peeled, peeled, seeded seeded and and crushed cru shed tomatoes and mix well. mixwelJ. 'Put 'Put in 2| 21 dl. dl. (scant (seant! pint, generous generous cup) cup) coconut coconut milk milk (or (or ] pint, almond almond milk). milk), Cook Cook very very gently gently in in a covered saucepan for for about about 35 35 minutes. minutes. l0 10 minutes minutes before before serving, add add I} dl. ft (t pint, pint, 3 ~ cup) cup) thick thick fresh fresh cream cream and and the the juice juice of of I 1 lemon. lemon, Thicken Thicken this this sauce sauce to to the the desired desired consistency by by boiling boiIing down. down. 'Serve 'Serve the the chicken chicken with with rice rice cooked cooked as as follows: follows, 'Cook 'Cook 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz' oz., Lt cups) cups) rioe rice for for 15 15 minutes minutes in salt water, water, stirring stirring often. often, Drain Drain and and wash wash several times times in in cold cold water. wateT. Dry, Dry, in in the the oven oyen at at a a very very low low heat heat for for l5 15 minutes.' minutes.' Chicken Chickell curry curry (Creole (Creole cookery). cookery). cARr CARl DE DE pouLET POULET - Joint Joint a medium-sized medium-sized chicken. chicken. Brown Brown the the pieces pieces very very lightly Iightly in in good good fat, fat, taking taking care care not not to to let let them them become become dry. dry, Add Add I 1 finely finely chopped chopped onion onion and and simmer simmer very very slowly. slowly, The The onion onion must must not not be be allowed allowed to to tum turn yellow. yellow. Add Add 2 2 small small peeled, peeled, seeded seeded and and chopped chopped tomatoes. tomatoes. Stir Stir the the mixture. mixture, Leave Leave to to simmer sim mer for for 15 15

minutes. Add Add 2 2 teaspoons previously pounded pounded in teaspoons saffron, saffron, previously minutes, in a a mortaro wilh with a a sprig parsley, a sprig of of Ihyme, thyme, a a sprig a c10ve sprig of of parsley, clove of mortar. of garlic, and piece of ginger. Leave and a a piece ofstem Leave these these spices spices to garlic, stem ginger. to soak soak into the chicken before the chicken before moistening moistening the glass of the curry curry with with a a glass of into lukewarm. watcr, poured into water, poured pan a into the a little little at at a a time, the pan lukewarrn tirne. (see Simmer for for 2 2 hours hours and and serve Rice serve with with Rice d la la crole uiole (see Simmer RrcE). RICE), Chicken roULARDE Crlssy. POULARDE h Cussy. A LA ra CUSSY cussy - Braise Braise the Chic ken la the chicken in in brown brown butter. garnish (see (see butter. Surround Surround with with a a Cussy Cussy garnish chicken GARNISHES). GARNISHES). juices diluted Pour the cooking juices the cooking port wine diluted with with port wine and and Rich Rl'c& Pour (see SA sauce (see SAUCE. Basic sauces) sauces) over over the chicken. Brown sauce UCE. Basic chicken. poULARDE Chicken il la la d'A1bufrll, d'Albuf6ra. POULARDE A LA Chicken L,q, D'ALBUfRA D'Lrsurfu Stuff the chicken with the chicken with rice rice half-cooked half-cooked in in white Stuff white stock, stock, mixed with pieces of with small gras. Poach small pieces of trumes truffies and and foie mixed Poach in in foie gras, white stock. pastry cases stock. Surround Surround with with pastry cases filled filled with with small small white quenelles, cocks' chicken quenelles, cocks' kidneys, kidneys, slices of trumes and slices of chicken truffies and button mushrooms mushrooms bound bound with (see with d'Albufra d'Albufira sauce sauce (see button SAUCE). Coat the chicken chicken with with d'Albufra d'Albufdra sauce. SAUCE), poULARDE DEMI-DEUIL Chicken demi-deuil. demideuil. POULARDE DEMI-DEUTL - Poach Poach the the Chlcken chicken in in a a white white stock, stock. Surround Surround with with pastry cases cases filled with a mixture of a mixture of lambs' sweetbreads sweetbreads and and mushrooms bound with (se SAUCE). in thick chicken Velout VeloutC sauce thick chicken sauce (see SAUCE). Put Put a a small small in cooked in truffie cooked in Madeira Madeira on pour on on each and pour each tartIet tartlet and on Irume (see SAUCE). Suprdme sauce (see SAUCE). Suprme Chicken demi-deuil demi-dail is is also also called called Poached chicken chicken LyonChicken

l]

l|

powlnos DEMrDortr Chicken Demidolf Demidoff J. I. POULARDE Cook the Chicken DEMIDOFF - Cook chicken la Matignon in a d la a covered dish in the the oven, oven. Surround with with artichoke artichoke bottoms garnished with with vegeSurround bottoms gamished pur6e. Put an on onion batter and fried, on table pure. ion ring, dipped in balter a slice of truffie. each artichoke, topped with a trume. juices with Mix the eooking cooking juices with Madeira and Rich brown Mix the Madeira and Rich bl'OWll (se SAUCE), SAUCE). Pour over the chicken, chicken. sauce (see Chicken Demidoff II. powlnDE Chlcken Demidolf n. POULARDE DEMTEoFF DEMIDOFF - Cook Cook the a covered covered dish in the oven. dish in oven. When it it is chicken in in butter'in butter in a three-quarters cooked, cooked, add add 3 3 dl. dl. (| 1| cups) cups) mixed (1 pint, pint, It vegetable pur6e, and truffies. vegetable pure, mushrooms mushrooms and truffles. When When cooked garnish garnish with sliced truffies. trumes. Mix and thickened Mix the the cooking juices juices with with port port wine wine and brown chicken. brown veal stock, and pour over the chicken, Chicken la la Derby. Derby. noULARDE POULARDE A ra LA opnsy DERBY - Stuff the chicken with and mixed with truffies. with rice cooked in butter and trumes. Cook, covered, covered, in the oven. oven. Surround Surround with with large large trufres truffles cooked cooked in in port port wine, wine, and slices of saut6ed in butter. Mix the cooking of /ole foie gras sauted cooking juices juices with v.'th port port wine and and thickened brown veal veal gravy, and pour over the chicken. Chicken Chickell la Doria. poULARDE POULARDE A LA ooRrl DORIA - Poach Poach the chicken in in white white stock. Take it out of the the liquid, liquid, remove remove the barding barding and trussing string. Cut offthe off the breast breast fillets fille!s and and take out the the small bones bones from the interior interior of of the carcase. carcase. Fill Fil! the chicken with the the following fol!owing mixture: mixture' Bind Bind 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz.) oz.) each each of cocks' cocks' combs and and kidneys, 100 100 g. g. (a (4 oz.) oz.) button button mushrooms mushrooms and 100 100 g. g. (4 oz.) oz,) quartered quartered truffies trumes with with 3 3 dl. (| (t pint, pint, l{ Il cups) cups) very very thick thick chicken Velouti Velout sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). Chill. ChilI. Fill chicken with with this this mixture, mixture, giving giving the the bird bird its its Fil! the the chicken original original shape. shape. Arrange Arrange the the breast breast fillets, filJets, cut eut into into fine fine strips, strips, on on top. top, Pour Pour very very thick thick Allemande Allemande sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE), SA UCE), over over the the chicken. chicken. Sprinkle Sprinkle with grated Parmesan Parmesan and brown brown lightly lightly in in the the oven. oyen, Surround Sur round the the bird bird with with large large chicken chicken quenelles quenelles decorated decorated with wh truffies, truffles, medium-sized medium-sized trufres trumes cooked cooked in in champagne, champagne, fried fried cocks' combs, combs, and and large large mushrooms. mushrooms. Pour Pour into into the the bottom bottom of of the the dish dish a a few few tablespoons tablespoons Suprdme Suprme sauce sauce (se, (sec SAUCE). SAUCE). fminc6s mincs of of Chicken. Chickell. frurxcfs MINCS DE DE voLArLLs VOLAILLE - Left-over Left-over

naise.

rl

224 224

CHICKEN
chicken chicken (poached, (poached, braised braised or roasted), boned, and cut into thin thin slices. slices. Coat Coat with with sauce sauce and heat heat rvithout without boiling. Chicken Chic ken fillets. fiUets. FtLETs FILETS DE DE voLATLLE VOLAILLE - Breasts Breasts of chicken removed removed when when raw raw and and cooked in.various in. various ways. ways. See See the recipes under Cdtelettes Ctelettes and SuprAmas Suprmes below. recipes given given under Chickenfiletsmignons. Chicken filets mignons. FTLETS FILETS MrcNoNs MIGNONS DE DE vornnrrVOLAILLE - Long thin thin strips strips cut cut from from the the SuprAmes Suprmes (see (see below) below) of poultry. These These filets, filets, encrusted encrusted with wi.th thin thin slices of of truffies or pickled pickled tongue, or arcs arcs and and placed placed on top top of of the tongue, are are formed formed into into rings rings or suprdmes, suprmes, which which are are cooked cooked separately. separately. Chicken la la financiOre. financire. poulARns POULARDE A rA, LA rrx^lNcriinn FINANCIRE Chicken I Braise Braise the the chicken. chicken. Surround Surround with with a a Financidre Financire garnish (see (see GARNTSHES). GARNISHES). Pour Pour Financibre Financire sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE), SAUCE), to which which has has been been added added some sorne of of the the juice juice in in which which the the chicken chicken was was cooked, cooked, over over the the bird. bird. Chickm FORCEMEA T. Chicken forcemeat forcemeat - See See FORCEMEAT. Chicken Chicken fricass6efricasse- See See FRICASSEE. FRICASSE. Chicken Chicken fricassee fricasse I la la minute minute @lumerey's (plurnerey's recipe). recipe). FRrcAsFRICASsfE SE DE DE pouLET.i POULET r,c, LA MrNurE MINUTE -'Cut - 'Cut up up two two chickens, chickens, put put them them in in a a saucepan saucepan with with 175 175 g.6 g. (6 oz., oz.,.t cup) melted melted butter, butter, and and toss toss tcup) them them so so that that they they become become firm firm without without colouring. colouring. Add 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) flour, ftour, season season with with salt, salt, pepper, pepper, and and grated grated nutmeg, nutmeg, and and add add as as much much water water as as will will make make a a slightly slightly thickened thickened sauce. sauce. Add Add 6 6 small small blanched blanched onions, onions, and and a a bouquet bouquet garni garni (q.v.). (q.v.). Cook Cook on on a a good good heat, heat, taking taking care care that that the the chicken chicken does does not not stick stick and and that that the the sauce sauce is is boiled boiled down down little 25 minutes little by by little. little. At At the the end end of of25 minutes test test I1of ofthe the legs legs to to see see if it is ifit is cooked. cooked. Add Add 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz.) oz.) mushrooms, mushrooms, remove remove grease, grease, bind bind the the sauce sauce with with four four beaten beaten egg egg yolks, yolks, sprinkle sprinkle with with lemon lemonjuice.' juice.' Chicken FRITOT DE DE voLATLLE VOLAILLE - Entrie Entre prepared prepared with with Chicken fritot. fritot. rruror slices of cooked cooked chicken chicken marinated marinated in in oil, oil, lemon lemon juice juice and and slices of herbs, herbs, dipped dipped in in batter batter and and fried fried in in deep deep fat fat or or oil. oiL (See (See also also FRTTTERS.) FRITTERS.) Chicken Chicken galantine galantine - See See GALANTINE. GALANTINE. Chickcn Chicken giblets. giblets. ABArrs ABATIS DE DE voLATLLE VOLAILLE - Poultry Poultry giblets giblets are are composed composed of of wingtips, wingtips, neck, neck, gszzard, gizzard, liver, liver, and and heart. heart. (See GIBLETS.) (See GIBLETS.) Chicken ila la Godard. Godard. poULARDE POULARDE A rn LA coolno GODARD - Braise Braise the the Chicken chicken. Surround Surround with with Godard Godard garnish garnish (see (see GARNISH). GARNISH). chicken. Pour Pour over over the the chicken chicken Godard Godard sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) to to which which sorne of ofthe the cooking cooking juices juices have have been been added. added. some

Grilled chicken chicken is served with a highly seasoned seasoned sauce sauoe such as Diable, Mustard, Biarnaise, SAUCE). Barnaise, etc. (see SAUCE). Gdltd il la diable. diable. pouI.Er cnnrf A r,l Grilled chicken POULET GRILL LA DIABLE orlsrr Truss Truss the chicken chicken as for boiling boiling and split it through through the back. Flatten slightly, season pepper, spread season with salt salt and and pepper, spread with butter, half-cook in the oyen. butter, and half-cook oven. Smear Smear the the chicken with a a little little mustard mus tard to which sorne to which some cayenne cayenne has been added. added. Coat with fresh fresh breadcrumbs and sprinkle cooking under a sprinkle with melted butter. butter. Finish cooking a gentle

grill, letting it colour well. weil.

Garnish Garnish with gherkins and half-slices of of lemon, and serve
wirJr SAUCE). with Diable sauce sauce (see SAUCE).

Grilledchicken chicken Grilled

down the the back, back, push push the the ends ends of ofthe the legs legs into into the the opening, opening, down and season season with with salt salt and and pepper. pepper. Brown Brown on on ftatten slightly, slightly, and flatten both sides sides in in butter, butter, cover co ver both both sides sides with with fresh fresh breadbreadboth

GriUedchicken. chicken.pouLAR"DE POULARDEcnrrrfp GRILLE-- Cut Cut the thechicken chicken open open Grilld

crumbs and and grill grill under under gentle gentle heat. heat. The The chicken chicken can can also also be be crumbs dividedinto intojoints jointsas as for for SautCed Sautedchicken chicken (see (seebelow). below). divided 225 225

Chicken GrimoddeJa-Reyniire Grimod-de-Ia-Reynire - See below, Chicken See below, d Chicken la Nantua Nantua III. JAt\fBON DE pouLET POULET - Name given in France Chicken ham. harn. leMsor.r to the thigh thigh of a a large large chicken, chicken, which is is boned, boned, stuffed, to ofa ham and braised braised in Madeira. Madeira. trussed in the shape of trussed a ham HACHIS DE voLArLrE VOLAILLE - Made with left-over left-over Chicken hash. rHcnrs poultry poultry (poached or braised), boned and chopped or cut in very small dice. (See HASH.) HASH.) Hungarian chicken. chic ken. roULARDE POULARDE A LA noNcnorsn HONGROISE - Stuff Hungarian Stuff the three-quarters cooked and seasoned seasoned with with rice three-quarters chicken with paprika. paprika. covered with butter, butter, in the the oven. oyen. Dilute the the pan Cook, covered juices juices with with white white wine wine and and pour pour over over the chicken. Serve Serve with SAUCE). Hungarian sauce sauce (se, (see SAUCE). Hungariut Chicken i I'imp6riale. l'impriale. eoULARDE POULARDE I A r'nrpfnrlrn L'IMPRIALE - Stuffthe Stuff the Chicken chicken with with a a mixture mixture of 150 g. (5 oz.) oz.) lambs' sweetbreads, sweetbreads, chicken 100 g. g. (4 oz.) button button mushrooms, 3 medium-sized truffies 100 shaped to to look look like like olives, olives, bound bound with with 2 2 dl. $ (1 pint, pin t, scant cup) shaped mushroom pur6e pure and and 2 2 dl. (+ (1 pint, pint, scant cup) thick thick chicken mushroom Velout sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). Cook, Cook, covered, in in the the oven oyen VeloutC without allowing allowing it it to to colour. colour. without Surround with with pastry pastry cases filled with with small pieces of offoie joie Surround gras,large gras, large mushrooms mushrooms cooked cooked in in butter butter and garnished garni shed with asparagus tips, tips, and and small small artichoke artichoke bottoms bottoms simmered asparagus and filled filled with with chopped chopped trufres. truffies. gently in in butter butter and gently Coat lightly lightly with with a a sauce, sauce, using using the the cooking cooking juices juices as as for Coat Chicken h la la Chantilly. Chantilly. Chickm I'indienne. l'indienne. poULARDE POULARDE A l'rNotnxNe L'INDIENNE - Poach Poach the the Chic ken I Chicken chicken in in white white stock, stock, or or cook cook it, it, covered, covered, in in the the oven oyen with with chicken butter. butter. Pour Curry Curry sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) over it, and serve serve with with Polurr Rice d I'indienne l'indienne (see (see RICE). RICE). Rice Cold chicken chicken Isabelle Isabelle (M. (M. Apollon Apollon Caillat's CaiUat's recipe). recipe). Cold CHAUD-FROID DE DE poULARDE POULARDE rsABELrr ISABELLE - Cut the the chicken chicken in cHAUD-FRoID pieces, soak soak in in cold cold water, water, drain drain and and put put in in a a shallow shallow saut6 saut pieces, pan. Pour Pour over over it it 3 3 dl. dL (+ (t pint, pint, li cups) cups) concentrated concentrated veal veal pan. mushroom essence, essence, and and cook. cook. stock, flavoured ftavoured with with mushroom stock, Drain the the bird. bird. Strain Strain the the cooking cooking juices juices and and use use them them to to Drain moisten a a roux roux (q.v.) (q.v.) made made with with 75 75 E. g. (3 (3 oz., oz., scant scant + t cupl cup:, moisten butter and and the the same same quantity quantity of of flour, ftour, cooked cooked together. together. Add Add butter teaspoon paprika. paprika. Cook, Cook, and and skim. skim. Bind Bind the the sauce sauce with with 2 2 I1 teaspoon egg yolks yolks beaten beaten up up in in a a little little cream. cream. Cook Cook slowly, slowly, and and strain strain egg over the the pieces pieces ofchicken, of chicken, which which have have been been returnod returned to to the the over shallow pan. pan. Add Add sweet sweet pimentos pimentos cut cut in in julienne julienne strips. strips. shallow Simmer for for a a few few minutes. minutes. Simmer To serve, serve, cover coyer the the chicken chicken pieces pieces completely completely with with the the To sauce. When When quite quite cold, cold, decorate decorate with with small small pieces pieces of oftruffies sauce. truffies and sweet sweet pimentos. pimentos. and Coat completely completely with with a a thin thin layer layer ofjelly, of jelly, which which should should be be Coat and almost almost colourless. colourJess. c1ear and clear Chicken A I'ivoire. l'ivoire. pouLARDE POULARDE A I'rvonr L'IVOIRE - Poach Poach the the Chicken chicken in in white white stock, stock, surround surround with with 20 20 mushroom mushroom heads heads chicken and 20 chicken chicken quenelles. quenelles. Porx Pour SuprAme Suprme s(ace sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) and20 over the the bird. bird. over Chickenjambalaya (Indiancookery). cookery). JAMBALATA JAMBALAIA DE DE pouLET POULET jambalaya (Indian Chicken Pilafmade made from from rice rice cooked cooked d l'indienne l'indienne (see (see RICE). RICE). -- Pilaf

l|

CHICKEN CHICKEN
Dice coarsely 150 J 50 g. (5 oz.) raw, lean Jean ham. Saut6 Saut in butter

t'rstnecoN Chicken with tarragon tarragon in jelly. jelly. roULARDE POULARDE A L'ESTRAGON

(9 oz.) in in a a heavy pan. pan. When When almost cooked, add add 250 250 g. g. (9
cooked diced diced chicken. g. (7 oz., ll oz., It Saut6 Saut and season with red red pepper. pepper. Add 200 g. separately. cups) Rice Rice d l'indienne (see RICE) cooked separately. A rA TEnTNE Jellied POULARDE sN EN TERRINE L Jellied chicken in casserole. poULARDE fowl. Stuff with a forcemeat made of cnlEr GELE - Bone Bone a plump plumpfowl. veal, fresh pork fat and gratinforcemeat, d gratinforcemeat,the equal parts of ofveal, the equal whole bound with with two eggs, eggs, and and flavoured ftavoured whoJe well seasoned, bound with wi th brandy brandy and essence of of truffies. truffles. of truffies raw foie gras studded with 4 quarters of Put half half a a raw truffles and re-form the shape of the on the the forcemeat, and the shape the chicken. on a slice of fat bard with with a slice of Truss as Truss as for for boiling, boiling, bard fat bacon, bacon, add oven. Remove Madeira, and and cook, covered, in the oyen. Remove from the Madeira, the trussing cool. Dilute the dish and cool. the pan juices. juices. Remove the dish and chicken, and put it in an earthenwipe the chicken, string and barding, wipe Cover completely with ware dish on a base of well-set weil-set jelly. jeJJy. Coyer jelly have been added. jelly to which the diluted cooking juices have Leave to chill chili for at least 12 hours. AU CHAMcHAMwith champagne. champagne. PoULARDE POULARDE AU Jellied Jellied chicken chicken with pAcNE nN prepared weil well in This dish be prepared PAGNE EN GELE dish should should be cnr6u - This ad vance. advance. gras, trimmed with a a whole foie trimmed and foie gras, Stuff a chicken Stuff a chicken with which has has been been soaked in brandy and studded truffles, wlllch studded with truffies, a few spices, few minutes. and cooked cooked in butter for a spices, and the cooking oven in in the in butter. butter. Dilute the Cook, covered, in the oyen Cook, covered, (scant pint, pint,2f, cups) dry champagne. champagne. Boil with 5 dl. dl. (scant juices with 2i cups) (see (scant pint, pint, 2i 2l cups) Add 5 cups) Chicken jelly down. jelly (see down. Add 5 dl. dl. (scant JELL Y). Boil for a a few moments. Strain. JELLY). cover with earthenware dish and coyer Put the chicken in a large earthenware jelly is quite set scrape jelly. Cool completely. When Wh en the jelly the jelly. bird over over 2 off any fat that sticks to the surface, and wipe the bird offany hot water. or or 3 times with a cloth wrung out in very hot flavoured with different wines. Jellied be ftavoured Jellied chicken may be PoULARDE AU AU FOIE FoIE Jellied chicken with foie gras (canned). POULARDE chickm in casserole. casserole. GRAS A LA as for lellied Jellied chicken re GELE csrEE Prepare as cns - Prepare it breast and wings. Put it Drain, remove the strings and the trussing strings just big hold the to hold large tin big enough enough to downwards into a a large tin just downwards into Solder the chicken. Coyer the clarified cooking liquor. Solder Cover with the into a the tin tin into a with solder. solder. Put the tin, a mark on on the the top with tin, make a boil and to the the boil pot and and coyer cover completely with water. Bring to I hour. for 1 continue to to boil, without interruption, for keeping it upside down so so Drain the tin and leave to cool, keeping jelly and goes to fat goes to the is in jelly and the the fat that the breast of chicken is the breast bottom of the tin.

jelly (Scarnali) (Scarnati) Chicken Chicken witb with tarragon tarragon in in jelly

with white a generous and coyer cover with stock. Add saucepan and saucepan white stock. Add a quantity of tarragon. quantity tarragon. liquid. Leave to cool cool in Cook slowly sJowly for for I 1 hour. hour. Leave in its its own Jiquid. carefully. Drain, take off the trussing string and wipe carefully. all grease has been Reheat cooking liquor, from which ail Reheat the cooking quantity of of Add to required quantity and strain. removed, and strain. Add the required to it it the removed, gelatine, soaked in cold water, and heat slightly. slightly. g. lukewarm, into a saucepan in which 100 g. Pour this, when lukewarm, (4 oz.) I egg a handful and a lean beef, egg white white and handful of oz.) minced (4 minced Jean beef, 1 been whisked together. Cook chopped tarragon leaves have been a good heat for a a moment, whisking whisking lightly. over a a. it cornes comes to the boil, remove remove the the saucepan to a As soon as it slowly for 25 minutes. very low heat and cook sJowly jelly through adding, when it has cooled, Strain the jelly through a cloth, adding, (6 tablespoons, When nearly scant t I dl. cup) Madeira. Madeira. When dl. (6 tablespoons, scant 1 * cup) jelly, and and when it it has cold, half-fill a dish with sorne some of this jelly, cold, on top. set put the chicken on leaves of with broad of tarragon, tarragon, blanched, Decorate with broad leaves Decorate jelly. in half-set jelly. and dipped dipped one by one one in trimmed, drained, drained, and one by trimmed, pattern on in a a pattern breast of of the Arrange these on the the breast these leaves Arrange leaves in of the the cover the chicken chicken with the rest of chicken. Three-quarters coyer jelly. jelly. until ready ready to ice or in in the the refrigerator refrigerator untiJ the dish dish on on ice Place the serve. pout,Er KATOFF KAToFF a chicken chicken (split Katoff. POULET Grill a Chicken Katoff. - Grill flattened) as as for for Grilled chicken d the back back and lightly ftattened) down the la diable. la (see POT POTATOES), Duchess potato (see foundationof Set it on a foundation of Duchess ATOES), and browned in in the oven. Surround with egg and the oyen. brushed with egg brushed has been veal stock to which butter has been added. thickened brown veaJ thickened cRoMnseun DE DE VOLAILLE voLAILLE -- Prepared kromeskies. CROMESQUIS Chicken kromeskies. caul (or pork fat), with a a croquette mixture, mixture, wrapped in pig's cauJ in batter and fried. (See CROQUETTES.) dipped in a fat noULARDE LAMBERTYE -- Poach Poach a Chicken Lambertye. POULARDE Allow it it to for boiling, stock. Allow in white chicken stock. boiling, in hen, trussed for hen, completely in in its own liquid. cool compJetely and remove it. remove it. round the a circular circular incision incision round the breast and Make a (see FOIE GRAS), gras mousse GRAS), a Foie Foie gras inside with Fill the with a mousse (see the inside Fill Coat the shape the chicken. chicken. Coat re-form the the top top to to re-form shape of the rounding the (see SAUCE). IAhirc chaud-froid SAUCE). with White chaud-froid sauce (see the chicken chicken legs with the cut in in slices, slices, Place over over the the chicken chicken breasts cut the mousse the Place and decorated decorated with truffles truffies and rounds coated with the sauce and jelly. glazed with jelly. tongue glazed of tongue a bed rice. Garnish Garnish Serve on cro0tons of bread, bread, or or on on a bed of rice. on crotons Serve jelly. jelly shapes chopped jelly. shapes or or chopped with jelly poulARDE A LA LA LANGUEDOLANGUEEola languedocienne. POULARDE Chicken i la Chic ken with butter. oven with covered, in the cTENNE the the oyen CIENNE Cook the chicken, covered, in la languedoa dish with tomatoes d la and surround Set on on a dish and surround with tomatoes Set lightly fried fried in in oil. oil. and aubergines cut cut in in slices slices and and Jightly cienne and cienne juices with white wine, wine, season with a a season with the cooking juices Dilute the garlic, and veal and add add thickened clove of brown veal crushed clove of garlic, thickened brown crushed gravy. Pour with chopped chicken and and sprinkle chopped sprinkle with Pour over over the gravy. the chicken parsley. pouLETs - Chicken livers are FoIEs DE DE POULETS are used used livers. FOIES Chicken Chicken Iivers. - Chicken livers garnish, and They may, may, however, and for for forcemeat. forcemeat. They however, as a a garnish, mostly as grilled on in with mushrooms, mushrooms, in skewers, sauted, be served served grilled saut6ed, with on skewers, be phtis. in terrines and pts. and risottos, and and used used in terrines and pilafs and (cold). PAIN FRoID -- Prepare Prepare loaf (cold). IAIN DE DE VOLAILLE voLAILLE FROID Chicken Chicken loaf (see below) for and decorate decorate as as for mousse mixture mixture (see cold cold Chicken Chicken mousse below) and (game, foie gras, fish, Coat a a all other fish, shellfish). shellfish). Coat ail other cold cold loaves (game, foie gras, jelly and pieces of hardand decorate decorate with with pieces of truffles, truffies, hardmould with with jelly mould boiled eggs, eggs, white white pickled tongue, tongue, etc. etc. boiled (hot). PAIN a loaf (hot). IAIN DE DE VOLAILLE voLAILLE CHAUD cHAUD -- Prepare Prepare a Chicken Chicken loaf (see FORCEMEAT). FORCEMEAT). Mousseline forcemeat Mousseline for cemeat (see and fiJ] with the the Butter a a mould mould with with a a hole hole in in the middle and fill with Butter the middle (] inch) Poach within 1 I cm. cm. (t inch) of of the the top. top. Poach above forcemeat forcemeat to to within above
226 226

in a cnr6E - Truss the chicken as DANs DANS sA SA GELE as for for boiling, put put in

CHICKEN
loaf in in the oyen J the Joaf oven in a bain-marie (q.v.) for 45 minutes to 1 depending on the size of the mould. hour, depending loaf is leave it it to for a a few When the the loaf cooked, leave to settle settle for is cooked, When moments Surround with out. Surround moments before turning out. with the the garnish before turning appropriate to the garnish. chosen and pour over it the sauce appropriate The following garnishes and and sauces are suitable for hot sauces are The (peas) and mushchicken loaves: and Cream Crearn sauce; sauce: mushchicken loaves: Clamart (peas) (salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) of rooms rooms and and Allemande sauce; sauce; Hongroise (salpicon groups) and and Sauce mushrooms and and on onions separate groups) mushrooms ions in in separate hongroise; Manse/et (coarsely diced Monselet (coarsely and hearts and diced artichoke artichoke hearts and Suprme SuprAme sauce; Montpensier truffies in separate groups) and (asparagus tips in butter, slivers and, Allemande slivers of truffies) (asparagus truffies) and Allemande and Nantua sauce; Nantua (crayfish tails, slivers truffies) and slivers of truffies) Veloutd sauce and Velout sauce cooked cooked with cream. sauce; asparagus tips and (See GARNISHES, GARNISHES, SAUCE.) eoULARDE A LA lyonnaise or or demi-deuil. demi-deuil. POULARDE Chic ken Chicken i la la lyonnaise _ Stuff LYONNAISE, DITE DITE DEMI-DEUIL StUff the ChiCKCN with With fine fiNC LYONNAISE, thc chicken and poach in white white chicken stock. Serve truffied truffied forcemeat and chicken surrounded with vegetables vegetables cooked cooked in in the the surrounded with the chicken accompanied by and accompanied chicken broth, and by the strained poaching liquor. Iiquor. cooking chicken is the great speciality of the This way of cooking city of Lyons and and is known as as Poularde Poularde de Madame Filloux. Filiaux. eoULARDE Chicken Maeterlinck Maeterlinck (Mont-Bry's recipe). recipe). POULARDE MAETERLTNcT mixture of Stuffa MAETERLINCK a chicken with a chopped-up mixture - Stuff and kidneys, lambs' sweetbreads, truffies and cocks' combs and with very very thick chicken Velout Velouti sauce mushrooms, bound bound with thick chicken SAUCE) and fresh cream. Truss the chicken and wrap it (see SAUCE) in a bard of bacon butter, bacon fat. Put the bird in a deep pot with butter, fresh bacon rind, rind, sliced canots carrots and sliced sliced onions. strips of fresh 45 minutes. salt. Cook in the oyen. oven, covered, covered, for 45 Season with salt. remove the trussing string. Put it in an Drain the bird and remove and surround with 6 peeled truffies earthenware casserole and surround with seasoned pepper and nutmeg, and 6 small seasoned with salt, pepper small slices of juices with heated in the cooking cooking juices foie gras heated in butter. Dilute the foie (f pint, and 4 dl. 2] dl. (scant t dl. G 2t I pint, generous cup) sherry and scant 2 cups) thickened and strained brown meat gravy. Add (| cup) brandy and set alight. Seal the lid of of the 4 tablespoons tablespoons <t paste. flour-and-water pas casserole with flour-and-water te. Cook in the oyen, oven, in a good heat, for 35 minutes. Serve in the casserole. MARTNADE DE Marinade of crncken. chicken. MARINADE DE voLArLLa Marinade VOLAILLE - Prepare in as Chicken Chickm frilot, the same way as fritot, using uncooked chicken. pouI,ARos A MATIcNoN Matignon POULARDE Chicken i la Matignon. rl LA MATIGNON - Stuff Forcemeat d gratin mixed with one-third one-third of the chicken with Forcemeat its volume of Quenelle stuffing (see FORCEMEAT). FORCEMEAT). Brown in the oyen. cover with a thick Brown oven. Take out, cool, and coyer (vegetable mixture). mixture). Wrap the chicken coating of Matignon (vegetable in salt pork, and and tie firmly. Braise. When cooked surround and pour the with braised braised lettuces, lettuces, and cooking juices with the cooking juices diluted brown sauce sauce (see SAUCE) over the with Madeira and and Rich brown bird. vor,Alrrr MAyoNNATsE DE DE VOLAILLE Chicken mayonnaise. MAYONNAISE - Slices of cooked chicken (or other poultry) seasoned seasoned with oil, vinegar, and pepper, set lettuce, coated coated with salt and set on on shredded shredded lettuce, salt garnished with lettuce mayonnaise, and garnished lettuce hearts and quartered nal"(l-ln01lea eggs, capers and anchovy fillets. (See MAYONhard-boiled NATSE.) Chicken mdaillons. u6oarlr.oNs DE VOLAILLE voLATLLE m6daillons. MDAILLONS - There are several kinds. kinds. Sorne are prepared with with a croquette mixture Some are a {'rr,rol',pt1~p shaped into discs, coated in egg and breadcrumbs and egg and into discs, in butter. saut6ed in butter. Others, which which belong to to the the category of (see QUENELLES) made from Chicken quenelles (see are made Chicken QUENELLES) are quenelle forcemeat or chicken mousse, moulded into little quenelle into !ittle poached. A cakes and and poached. A third with the third kind cakes kind is is made with the white flesh of a are cut a boned fowl, and, finally, sorne mdaillons midaillons are cut fJ.esh finaUy, sorne suprmes of flattened of raw chicken, lightly fJ.attened from the breasts or suprmes pieces. and cut into oval pieces. Methods last two types are given below. Methods ofpreparing of preparing these Jast
227

ufnurroNs DE i I'alg6rienne. MDAILLONS Chicken m6daillons mdaiUons DE voI-VOLand breadcrumbs in egg egg and - Coat in and saut mddaillons made with chopped chicken and saut6 in butter. mdaillons butter. mddaillon on top of I tomato tomato which has been grilled Set each mdaillon and stuffed rice pilaf mixed with diced diced sweet peppers. and stuffed with rice SAUCE). Surround with light Tomato sauce (see SAUCE). Beauharnais. MDAILLONS u6oltrroNs DE VoLATLLE Crncken VOLAILLE Chicken m6daillons Beauharnais. BEAUHARNAn midaillons, cut from the breasts, BEAUHARNAIS Season the mdaillons, - Season artichoke saut6 in butter. Place Place each eachmidaillon small artichoke mdaillon on a smaU and saut garnished with and garnished I tablespoon bottom cooked in in butter and with 1 Beauharnais and topped with a slice of sauce (see SAUCE), and Beauharnais sauce gravy mixed Surround with with thickened brown veal veal gravy truffie. trufle. Surround with butter. breast. MDAILLONS lmnlnroNs Chicken mdaillons m6dqillore eut cut from from the the breast. Chicken DE VOLAILLE n6rmlr,rs SUR DTAILLS FILETS DE the breasts suR FTLETs voLATLLE - Remove the them into regular slices. Flatten from a roasting chicken. Cut them these these lightly and trim into rounds or ovals. Cook according to the recipe, following the instructions instructions given under Chicken (see below). citelettes and and Suprmes of chicken (see ctelettes SuprAmes of be left with with the the mdaillons. midaillons. They The filets mignons may be may also be cooked separately, separately, as for Suprmes SuprAmes of of chicken, and served served on top of the mdaillons. midaillons. The legs, legs, wings and and carcases carcases of the chickens chickens used used for the midaillons can can be used up by following the recipes given mdaillons be used the recipes under Chicken ballottines (see BALLOTTINES). Chopped cbicken chicken mdaiIJons. m6daillons. MDAILLONS uEomroxs EN EN CHAIR cHArR DE Cbopped voLAILLE H,c,cIfiE a roasting chicken. VOLAILLE HACHE - Bone the breasts of a g. (2 oz., Chop them, adding 50 g. oz., J 1 cup) breadcrumbs soaked g.Q oz., i in milk and squeezed out, and 50 fi g. I cup) butter. Add to the mixture 2 tablespoons tablespoons) fresh cream, and and tablespoons (3 tablespoons) season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Shape midaillons from the mixture, coat coat with with egg and Shape the mixture, and saut flour, and or dredge dredge with with flour, saut6 in in clarified breadcrumbs, or butter. ofthe the bird can be used to The carcase, neck, head and feet of a sa uce to to accompany prepare chicken stock or soup, soup, or in a sauce midaillons. the mdaillons. CNcken mdaiUons m6daillons Dunan. Dunan. MDAILLONS ufo.c.IrroNs DE VoLATLLE Chicken DE VOLAILLE DUNAN midaillons of chopped chopped chicken mixed with a - Make mdaillons (q.v.) of salpicon (g.v.) lean ham and mushrooms. Coat in egg and salpicon of Jean and saut breadcrumbs and saut6 in butter. Set in and fi]led filled with Set in tartlets with a a salpicon of tartlets baked baked blind blind and truffies d la crme. crDme. Serve with Madeira sauce (see SAUCE). voLATLLE Chicken m6daillom A l'carlate. I'ecarlate. MDAILLONS woenrous DE DE VOLAILLE Cbicken mdaillons A L'CARLATE r'6c,c.ntA.rs midaillons eut cut from from the suprAmes Season mdaillons the suprmes - Season and poach in in white stock. Set in in a a dish dish in in the form of a and the forro stock. Set alternating turban, al tongue heated terna ting them with slices of pickled tongue in white stock. stock. a few Pour into into the of the dish a few tablespoons Pour bottom of the dish the bottom Allemande sauce (see SAUCE). Allemande SAUCE). vol'6gyptienne. MDAILLONS ufourroNls DE DE VOChicken Chicken mdaiUons medaillons i l'gyptienne. paprika A r'fcvprrrNNe midaillons wi with L'GYPTIENNE th pa prika and LAILLE - Season mdaillons saut butter. saut6 in butter. Arrange in form of a a turban, in the the forro turban, alternating them with middle aubergines sauted rounds of aubergines saut6ed in butter. Garnish the middle Tomato sauce (see of the dish with pilaf r1ce. rice. Surround with Tomalo SAUCE) to which has been added the cookingjuices cooking juices diluted with white wine. u6oxrroNs DE DE VoLAILLE VOLAILLE Cbicken Chicken mdaiUons m6daillorc Fdora. F6dora. MDAILLONS reooRA medaillons and in white FDORA Season the the mdaillons and poach them them in - Season Garnish with crottons of bread fried in butter. Garnish stock. Set on crotons cut into uniform pieces and and stewed stewed in into uniforro in butter. butter. cucumbers cut chicken Coat with the cooking juices diluted with cream and chic ken Velouti sauce (see SAUCE). Velout Chicken mdaillons rr,rEo.,ltrroNs DE DE VOLAILLE voLATLLE m6daillons Grignan. Chicken Grignan. MDAILLONS cRIGNAN mddaillons from from chopped chicken meat. GRIGNAN - Make mdaillons Sprinkle with flour, dip in beaten egg, egg, and coyer cover with finely chopped truffies. truffles. Cook in butter.
L'ALGRIENNE AILLE t'LLcfRtENNr

llur l,

CHICKEN
Arrange on artichoke artichoke bottoms Arrange bottoms cooked in butter. Garnish Gamish with a ragot ragofrt of Chicken QUENELLES), and Chickm quenelles (see QUENELLES),

cocks'combs wth Allemande cocks' combs and kidneys, bound with Allemande sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Chicken mdaillons mddaillons la mantourne. MfDAILLoNs Chicken la mantouane. MDAILLONS DE DE voLAILLE A LA rl ulNrounNe VOLAILLE MANTOUANE - Season mCdaillons mdaillons cut from the and coat them rir milanaise (with egg and breadsuprdmes Ia la milanaise suprmes and Saut6 in butter. crumbs mixed with grated Parmesan). Parmesan). Saut butter. Set in tartlets which have been been baked baked blind, blind, each each filled with macaroni macaroni bound with Parmesan, Parmesan, to which a a julienne of lean ham added. Put ham and and pickled pickled tongue tongue has has been been added. Put a a slice slice of trufre midaillon. truffle on top of of each mdaillon. MDAILLONS DE voLATLLE VOLAILLE mdaillons la turque. Chicken m6daillore turque. rrafo,ur,roNs A runeus mddaillons with paprika, and saut6 r.r LA TURQUE - Season saut in Season mdaillons Rice pilaf pilaf (see PILAF). Coat with the butter. Set on top of of Rice cooking diluted with cooking juices juices diluted with white wine, and tomatowhite wine, and tomatoflavoured veal gravy. Am Chicken milanaise I. pourmor POULARDE LA MTLANATSE MILANAISE - Stuff Chicken t la milanaise the chicken chicken with Macaroni Macaroni d Ia la milanarbe milanaise (see MACARONI). MACARONI). Cook, covered, covered, in the oven oyen in butter. butter. Cook, Dilute the cooking cooking juices with white wine and and thickened veal gravy to which tomato pur6e pure has been added, and pour over the chicken.

Atrx cI{AMwith mushrooms (white). IoULARDE Chicken with POULARDE AUX CHAMpIGNoIls PIGNONS - As for Chicken I'allemande. l'allemande. Surround with large Chicken d
without allowing them to colour. col our. Pour mushrooms cooked without
(se, SAUCE) over the chicken. Allemande sauce sauce (see Allemande m NlNtul la Nantun Nantua L I. pourenps POULARDE A LA NANTUA - Poach Poach the Chicken Chlcken I

Chicken Chicken d la milanaise

Chicken I la la milanaise II. pour.lnon POULARDE A LA LA MTLANATSE MILANAISE Stuff the the chicken chicken with with a a mixture of sliced sliced lambs' lambs' sweetbreads, ham, mushrooms and trufles, truffles, bound breads, tongue, lean ham, with with brown brown sauce sauce flavoured flavoured with with tomato. tomato. Braise Braise the chicken. Surround with timbales Surround timbales of Macaroni Macaroni d Ia la milanalse milanaise (made (made in dariole moulds). Dilute the cooking cooking juices with Madeira Madeira and Rich brown brown sauce sauce (sw (see SAUCE) flavoured with tomato, tomato, and pour over the chicken. Chicken mousse mousse and mousseline$ mousselines. MoussE MOUSSE ET MoussELrNEs MOUSSELINES DE DE voLAILLE vOLAILLE - EntrCe, Entre, cold or hot, prepared with with Chicken Chicken mousseline forcemeat (see FORCEMEAT). FO RCEMEA T). mousseline forcemeat Chicken Poach the chicken chic ken in Chicken with mousseline forcemeat forcemeat - Poach white drain and cut offthe off the breast fillets as for Chicken Chicken white stock, drain h la Doria. it Fill the inside of the bird with Mousseline Mousseline forcemeat forcemeat (see (see FORCEMEAT), FORCEMEAT), with the addition of one-third of puree pure of Arrange this stuffing in layers, layers, alternating alternating with the foie gras. Arrange pieces pieces of of breast fillets. Round Round off off the top of the forcemeat to grve of the chicken. Cook Cook in a slow oven, oyen, setting give it the shape of tray containing containing hot water, water. dish in a tray the dish Surround Surround with wi th one one of of the the garnishes gamishes recommended for chicken poached poached in a white stock. (See GARNISHES.) GARNISHES.) Chicken with mushrooms mushrooms @rown). (brown). IoULARDE POULARDE Aux AUX cHAMCHAMClricken pIGNoNs PIGNONS - Cook Cook the the chicken, chicken, covered, in in the the oven oyen with butter. l0 10 minutes before the end end of the cooking time add large mushrooms. When When cooked dilute di lute the pan juices with white wine and Rich Rich brown sauce (se (see SAUCE) and and pour wine and over the chicken.

n.

quenelles made of chicken in white stock. stock. Surround Surround with quenelles (see FORCEMEAT) FORCEMEAT) to Chicken forcemeat (see to which which Shrimp Chickm forcemeat BUTTER) has been butter (see BUTTER) been added, and with boat-shaped pastry pastry shells shells filled with shrimps in iVcntua Nantua sauce sauce (see (see filled with shrimps in SAUCE). Plaoe Place on each boat a slice of truffie. Pour over the of trufre. (see SAUCE) finished with shrimp shrimp chicken Suprme SuprAme sauce (see ~ttcr. . butter. rn Nfi''rrul Chicken ta la Nantus Nantua n. POULARDE A LA NANTUA - Stuff the II. pour.,Ros Stuffthe Chicken I pure of shrimps mixed mixed with a a very very thick chicken with a a pur6e Veloutd sauce chicken Velout .sauce (see SAUCE). Poach in white stock. SAUCE). Poach it Suprme sauce (se, (see SAUCE) frnished fini shed with Pour over over it Suprdme sauce BUTTER). Add a few pieces of trufre Shrimp butter (see BUTTER). truffle to pure. the shrimp shrimp pur6e. pouunor A m. POULARDE m LA NANTUA - Poach Poach I la Nantua III. Chicken breast fillets and stuff the chicken, drain, cut off the breast stuff it in the as for Chicken Doria, replacing the mixture d la Doria, same way as that recipe recipe with puree pure of shrimps mixed with very used in that Veloutd sauce sauce (see SAUCE). thick chicken Velout SAUCE). Re-shape the the chicken, chicken, placing placing the the breast fillets, in strips, fillets, cut in SAUCE) over on top. top. Pour Allemande sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) over the on Pour Allemande Parmesan and brown the top. chicken. Sprinkle Sprinkle with Parmesan Serve Suprme sauce sauce (se,e (see SAUCE), finished fini shed with with SuprAme Serve with BUTTER). Shrimp butter (see BUTTER). Shrimp Prepared in this way the chicken chicken is also known known as Chicken Chicken Prepared r imo d- de - la- Re yniCr e. Grimod-de-la-Reynire. G Chicken A la N6va. Nva. poULARDE POULARDE A rl LA r$6vl NvA - Stuff Stuff the chicken Chicken FORCEMEAT) to which with a fine Chickenforcemeat Chickenforcemeat (see FORCEMEAT) Truss as raw foie gras and diced truffies. truffles. Truss been added sorne has been some raw/oie poach in chicken stock. Allow AJlow it to cool and for boiling, and poach white when the chicken is quite cold, wipe it and coat with white Chaud-froid sauce (se, (see SAUCE) prepared with some sorne of the Chaud-froid with jelly jelly and allow to set firmly. chicken broth. Glaze with on a a bed bed of rice, rice, on on a a slice slice of Set the chicken chicken either on Set the buttered bread, bread, or or directly directly onto onto the the plate. plate. Serve Serve with buttered (the salad salad rounded rounded into into a vegetable salad salad in in mayonnaise (the vegetable dome and decorated decorated with truffies). truffles). Garnistr Gamish with with jelly jelly shapes. shapes. dome la NCva Nva can also be served in the same way as Chicken h Chicken d Chicken Lambertye. la nigoise nioise I. pounor POULARDE A rl LA mgonn NIOISE - Cook the Chicken I covered, in butter, butter, in the oven. oyen. Serve Serve surrounded by chicken, covered, quartered artichokes artichokes which have have been simmered in butter, butter, braised courgettes courgettes (zucchinis), small small new potatoes potatoes cooked in braised butter, and a few black olives. olives. butter, cooking juices with white wine, season season with a Dilute the cooking crushed clove clove of of garlic, garlic, thicken thicken with with brown brown veal veal gravy crushed flavoured with tomato pur6e, pure, and and pour pour over over the the chicken. flavoured Sprinkle with chopped tarragon. tarragon. Sprinkle Chicken I la nigoise nioise II. pour.c*Dr POULARDE A r,r LA NIgoIsu NIOISE - Cook Cook the Chicken in the oven, oyen, covered. covered. Arrange on a a dish chicken in butter in have been been slowly cooked in in butter, butter, with tomatoes which have with courgettes tossed tossed in oil, new potatoes potatoes cooked cooked in butter, butter, diced courgettes and black black olives. olives. Pour the the cooking juices, juices, prepared prepared as as above, above, over over the Pour chicken, and sprinkle sprinkle with chopped tarragon. tarragon. with noodles. noodles. poULARDE POULARDE AUx AUX NoLJILLES NOUILLES - Stuff Chicken with noodles half-cooked half-cooked in salt salt water, drained, the chicken with noodles dressed with butter butter and and grated grated cheese. Cook, covered covered in and dressed butter in the oven. oyen. Dilute the pan juices juices with white wine, thicken with brown brown Dilute flavoured with tomato pur6e, pure, and pour over the veal gravy flavoured chicken. POULARDE Ar.x AUX HUiTRES HUTRES - Poach the Chicken with with oysters. oysters. IoULARDE Chicken Surround with oysters poached in stock. Surround chicken in white stock.

n.

228

CHICKEN CHICKEN
their their own own liquor, Iiquor, and and drained. drained. Add Add boiled-down boiled-down oyster oyster liquor liquor to (0 SuprAme Suprme sauce sauce (se (sec SAUCE) SAUCE) and and pour pour over over the the
chicken. chicken. If Ifpreferred, preferred, the the oysters may may be he served served on on pieces pieces of of fried fried bread bread or or toast, toast, or or put put in the tbe sauce. sauce.
C-hicken Chicken Panurge. Panurge. Eruvfn TuVE DE DE PoULET POULET PANURGE PANURGE - Cut Cut the the chicken chicken up up as as for for a/ricassCe. africasse. Season Season with with salt salt and and pepper and put it it in in a a shallow shallow pan in in 2 2 tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) butter. Saut6 Saut the the chicken over over a a hot hot flame until until the the flesh is quite quite firm, firm, and and remove remove from from the the pan. pan. Cut Cut into into thin thin pieces a a 3-dl. 3-d!. (|-pint, H-pnt, l|-cup) 1t-cup) mixture of carrots, carrots, onions onions and celery; toss toss lightly lightly in in butter, and put in the the pan. Lay Lay the the chicken chicken pieces on on this this vegetable vegetable foundation. Pour in in dry dry white white wine. wine. Boil Boil down down the the liquid liquid and and pour pour in in

a a little little fresh fresh cream. cream. Cook Cook gently, gently, covered, covered, for for 25 25 minutes. minutes. Add Add stoned stoned olives olives and and simmer simmer for for a a few few minutes' Fut Put the the chicken chicken on on a a dish dish and and pour the sauce, fo which has been been added added a a good good tablespoon taDleSIPocm butter, over the bird' Place thin thiD slices slices of of the the $zzard gizzard which have been been peeled, peeJed, trimmed, trimmed, cooked cooked in in consomm6 consomm and and fried fried in in butter; butter; and and thin thin slices slices of of the the liver, also fried in butter; butter; on on the the chicken' chicken. Garnish Gamish with with heart-shaped heart-shaped bread bread cro0tons crotons fried fried in butter. butter. Chicken Chicken I la la parislenne. parisienne. PouLARoe POULARDE A LA LA PARTSIBNNE PAR1SNNE Remove Remove the breast bone bone and stuff the (he chicken with with a a Fine Fine panada panadaforcemeal (see FORCEMEAT). FORCEMEAT). Truss the bird bird and and forcemeat (see poach in n white stock. Drain the chicken chieken when it it is s cold; cold; cut eut off off the the pieces pieces of of add to a breast. breast. Take out the stuffing, cut in large dice dice and and add a (see FORCEMEAT)' cold chicken cold chicken Mousseline Mousseline forcemeat (see FORCEMEAn. coat with Refill the interior of of the bird with wi th this mixture,and coat with (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Chm'rd-froid sauce (see white Chaud-froid place on on and place sauce, and Slice the breasts thinly, coat with the sauce, and tongue. Serve the the chicken. Decorate with the with trufres truffles and and surround surround with vegetable bread, and on buttered buttered bread, chicken on chicken vegeta ble with decorated with lined withjelly with jelly and decorated rn darioles !ined mould ed in salad mouJded truffies. truffles. jelly shapes and shapes and distt with jelly the dish Ornament the the borders of the Ornament jelly. garnish with chopped chopped jelly. garnish pfntc'oURDINE powlnpn A LA u PRIGOURDIl'.'E I la prigourdine. Chicken Il Chlcken Srigowdine. POULARDE gras and seasoned and dced diced truffies, trufres, seasoned with foie gras chicken with the chicken Stuff the it, Cook it, with brandy. brandy' Cook moistened with and moistened and spicc with salt salt and spice and with it. with butter. butter, or or braise L in the oven with the oven covered, in comis comcooking is l0 minutes minutes before before eooking about JO Add truilles trufres about Add with these. these. chicken with the chicken pleted, and surround the and when serving surround when serving pleted, juices diluted with diluted with cooking juices chicken the the cookng Pour over over the the chicken Pour (see SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). and Rich Richbrown Madeira and Madeira brown sauce PIE. See PIE. Chicken pie Chlcken - See pArf DE rl CROLE A LA cnfou -os POULET PouLEr ft. cr6ole. PT la crole. il la Chicken pie Il Chicken (see PASTRY), PASTRY), very slightly Brioche pastry (sec Make sorne some Brioche Make yellow with pale yellow with saffron. Preand salted, salted, tinted pale sweetened and sweetened as sauce as down the the sauce curry, boiling down pare separately a a chicken chicken curry, pare of fat fat and and a bJend blend of a forcemeat forcemeat with a Make a as possible. Make much as much for a a cook for peppered, and and cook very weil well peppered, and very lean pork, salted and Jean a tart, of a tatt, pastry in in the the shape of out the the pastry in fat. fat. Spread out moment in moment in the bottom, bottom, forcemeat in layer of of forcemeat Put aa layer in the the middle. Put hollow in hollow with another another cover with pieces ofcurried chicken on on top, top, cover place the of curried chicken the pieces pastry. put on a]id lid of of pastry. on a and put layer of forcemeat, and of forcemeat, more tban rise more than middle should should rise The middle oven. The in the Bake slowly slowly in the oven. cold. orcold. Serve hot hot or the sides. sides.Serve the pduorvrAlsE ALA re PIMONTAISEpi6montaise I. PouLARDE I. POULARDE la pimontaise Chickenlii la CbJcken (4oz.) g.(4 diced 100g. oz.) diced with 100 mixed with risotto mixed with risotto Stuff the chicken thechic Stuff ken with with butter. butter. oven with inthe theaven covered, in Cook, covered. white truffles. trufres.Cook, white juices with mix with with wine, mix white wine, with white cooking juices Dilute the the cooking Dilute pour over chicken. over the thechicken. and pour veal gravy,and brown veal thickened brown thickened ptftrlovrllsn ALA t l PIMONTAISEPoULARDE la pidmontaise II. POULARDE Chicken i la Chlcken When with butter. butter. Wh ovenwith inthe the oven covered,in Cook the the chicken, eovered, Cook en with chicken Cover the thechic garnistrwith risotto. Cover cheese risotto. withcheese cookedgamish cooked ken with cooking thecooking (aoz..) slices. Pour g.(4 cutin inthin thinslices. Pourthe 100g. oz.)white whitetruffies truffieseut 100
229 229

butter butter mixed mixed wittl with 4 4 tablespoons tablespoons G (t cup) cup) thickened thickened brown brown veal veal gravy over over the the dish. dish. voLAILLE - Cook Chicken pilaf. pilaf. nrr,ln PILAF DE DE VOLAILLE Cook the the rice ricc and and arrange arrangeit it in in a aborder border on on a a dish. dish. Fill Fili the the middle middle with with chicken chicken manner: prepared following in in the the following manner: -prepared Cut Cut the thechicken chickeninto into small small uniform unifonnpieces. pieces. Season Season with wjth salt salt drain. and in butter pepper, saut6 and and saut in butter and drain. Dilute the thepan juices with with I1dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant * cup) white whitewine. wine. Add 3 dl. dl. (| (, pint, pint, l| Hcups) cups) brown brown veal veal stock and I tablespoon tab1espoon tomato tomato pur6e. pure. Boil Boil for for a a few few moments. moments. Strain Strain the the pan and simmer saut6 in the chicken Replace the sauce. sauce. Replace the chicken in the saut pan and simmer for for a a few few moments. moments. poroNAIsE a Stuff A u polonaise. PouLEr la I Chicken Chlckell la polonaise. POULET LA POLONAISE - Stuff a chicken forcemeat (see chicken with with d gratin gratinforcemeal (sec FORCEMEAT) FORCEMEAT) mixed mixed with with a a little little bread bread that that has has been been soaked soaked and and squeezed squeezed out, out, and and :hopped parsley. parsley. Truss Truss as as for for boiling. Brown Brown quickly quickly in in very and casserole in an earthenware bird the Put hot buttei. Put the bird in an casserole finish finish cooking cooking in in the the oven. oyen. Take Take off off the the trussing strings and and squeeze squeeze over over the the chicken chicken a a few few drops drops of of lemon lemon juice. Sprinkle with with browned browned butter butter in in which whicb some sorne fine fine breadcrumbs have been been fried, fried, allowing 25 25 g. (5 generous cup) oz., (l (1 oz.,* oz.,! cup) cup) breadcrumbs breadcrumbs to to 150 lSO E. g. (5 oz., generous * butter. butter. pour-mpe LA PoRTUGAISE Chicken Il la la portugaise portugaise I. 1. POULARDE A LA PORTUGAlSE Chicken t Cook Cook the the chicken, chicken, covered, covered, in in the the oven aven with with butter. butter. To Ta serve, serve, and topped surround sur round with with 8 8 tomatoes tomatoes stuffed stuffed and topped with with browned browned crumbs. crumbs. Dilute Dilute the the cooking juices juices with with white white wine, wine, thicken thicken with with brown a clove clove of of brown veal veal gravy gravy flavoured with witb tomato tomato and and a garlic, and garlic, and pour over olier the the chicken. chicken. pourmpn u PoRruGArsE portugaise II. Chicken i la Chlcken la portugaise n. POULARDE A LA PORTUGAISE it is oven with covered, in chicken, covered, Cook Cook the the chcken, in the the oyen with butter. butter. When When it is tomatoes diced tomatoes in the cooked, put in three-quarters cooked, the pot peeled, peeled, diced I and tablespoon in butter, have been which have been cooked in and 1 tablespoon onion. chopped onion. chopped juices over the chicken and cooking juis the cooking To serve, serve, pour the To over the chicken and parsleY. with chopped chopped parsley. sprinkle chicken the chicken PRJNcEssr-Poach PouLARDE PRINCE.'iSF. - Poach the Chickenprincds. POULARDE stock. chicken stock. quantity ofwhite of white chicken in a a small small quantity in with filled wilh pastry cases cases fiJled of pastry a garnish of with a Surround with Surround in buttec butter. simmerod in and truffies trufles simmered asparagus tips, and buttered asparagus buttered chicken. the chicken. over the SAUCE) over sauce (see SAUCE) Pow Allemande Allemande sauce Pour punfn DE chicken Pur6e of of chicken voLAILLE -- Pure DE VOLAILLE pur6e. pURE Chicken pure. Chicken as a garnish or filling. alone or or as served aJone poached in white stock, stock, served in white poached a garnisb or filling. as a and used used as la reine, reine, and purde it la called pure It is is sometimes sometimes called It a bouchdes, pastry' such as bouches, such as with pastry, made with garnish for for entres entries made vol-an-vent. and volau-Yent. rissoles and used for the is also also use<! cream, is offwith cream, pur6e, finished finished offwith Chicken pure, Chicken for the reine. Ia reine. coulis ir la called coulis soup calle<! with Prepared voLAILLE DE quenelles. Chicken quenelles. QUENELLES QLJENELLEs DE VOLAILLE- Prepared with (q.v.). forcemeats (q.v.). various forcemcats various Insert ntcnNcs -- Insert A LA m RGENCE PouLARDE la rgence. r6gence. POULARDE I la Chicken il! Chcken it in in brown brown and braise braise it chicken and the chcken fat inlo into the pieces of bacon fat of bacon saut6ed in sweetbreads sa calves' sweetbreads of calves' with slices of Surround wi Lutter. Surround th slices uted in quenelles, cocks' chicken quenelles, in Madera, Madeira, chicken cooked in truffies cooked butter, trumes butter, cocks' in bouillon. bouillon. prawns cooked cooked in large prawns and large combs and combs cookof the the cooksomeof (seeSAUCE), with sorne SAUCE), with sauce (see Rdgence sauce Polu Rgence Pour chicken. the chicken. added. over over the liouor added, ine liquor ing -Wfibf. ofslces. slices. instead of usedinstead can he be used sweetbreads can braised sweetbreads Whole braised pourlnpn A LA REINE - Stuff the chicken la reine. I Chickcn Chickel1 la reme. POULARDE LA REINE - Stuff the chicken in Poach in croquettes. Poach for Chicken Chicken croquelfes. as for mixture as same mixture with the thesame with with liquid. Surround Surround with of lquid. minimum of with the the minimum white stock, with white stock, purCe. Chicken pure. wth Chicken pastrycases filledwith casesfilled small pastry small of lid,aathin sliceof thinslice form of ofaalid, inthe the fonn case, in Puton oneach each pastrycase, Put (see SAUCE) over the dish. sauce (sec Pour Allemande sauce truffie.Pour truffie. SA UCE) over the dish. ALA LARENAISSANCE RENAISSANcE PoulAnos laRenaissance. Renaissance. POULARDE Chickeni la ChlckeD liquid. minimumof ofliquid. the minimum with the stockwith white stock inwhite chickenin Poach aachicken Poach (see garnish (see GARNISHES). GARNISHES). Renaissance garnish with Renaissance Surround with Surround

CHICKEN CHICKEN
(see SAUCE), Pottr Suprme Suprdme sauce sauce (see SAUCE), made made with with mushroom mushroom Pour essence, over over the the chicken. chicken. essence, pouLARDE (Cr6ole cookery). Chicken with with rice rice la Bourbon i la Bourbon (Crole cookery). POULARDE Chlcken AU RIZ RIz A LA rA BOURBON souRsoN -- Lightly Lightly brown brown aa chicken chicken in in fat. fat. Add Add aa AU finely chopped chopped cooked cooked on onion, 2 car carrots, bunch of of herbs, herbs, ion, 2 rots, aa bunch finely pepper and salt, pepper and 1 I tablespoon pur6e. Add tablespoon tomato tomato pure. Add stock stock and and salt, cook on on very very slow slow heat heat for for about about It l| hours. hours. Boil Boil down down the the cook liquid. liquid. Scald, drain, drain, and and cook cook rice rice in in chicken chicken stock. When soft, stock. When soft, Scald, place the arrange on on a a dish dish and and place pieces round chicken pieces the chicken round it. it. arrange pour over Strain the the stock stock and and pour over the dish. Decorate Decorate with with slices the dish. slices Strain of carrot. carrot. of Chicken and and rice rice with with suprme suprOme sauce. sauce. POULARDE IoULARDE AU AU RIZ Rrz Chlcken supn0l,s -- Half Half cook sAUcE SUPRME cook a a chicken, chicken, trussed trussed as as for for boiling SAUCE boiling and covered covered with with bacon fat. in bacon fat, in white white stock. stock. When When halfhalfand cooked, drain drain the Put the the bird. bird. Put the stock stock through through a a fine fine strainer cooked, strainer and replace the pot. Add (9 oz., chicken in g. (9 in the the chicken the pot. 250 g. Add 250 oz.,lJ cups) li cups) and blanched and and drained drained rice, (3 rice, stock, stock, and and 2 2 tablespoons blanched tablespoons (3 tablespoons) butter. butter. Finish Finish cooking cooking ail all together, tablespoons) together, over over slow slow heat. part of Using part cooking liquor liquor prepare prepare a of the the cooking a Suprme sauce SuprAme sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). (see chicken with with ri rice, Flank the chicken ce, and and serve with suprme suprAme sauce seuce serve with and the chicken broth. the chicken broth. and

An Anold-fashioned old-fashioned spit spitfor forchickens chickens (Grn) Griin\

Surround ions cooked Surround with with carrots carrots and and on onions cooked in in the chicken the chicken broth. broth. poULARDE ROSIRE Chlcken a chicken RosiCre. POULARDE Chicken Rosire. RosriRE -- Stuff Stuffa chicken with with Chickenforcemeat (see FORCEMEAT). Chickenforcemeat with with cream uearn (see FORCEMEAT). Truss Truss it, it, laying laying the flat against feet fiat the feet against the the sides. Rub it it ail all over sides. Rub with over with lemon juice and lemon juice and wrap wrap it it entirely entirely in in bards bards of of bacon bacon fat. fat. Line Line the the bottom bottom of of a a casserole casserole with with strips fresh bacon rinds, strips of of fresh bacon rinds, rounds carrot and ion and herbs. Place rounds of ofcarrot and on onion and a a bunch bunch of ofherbs. Place the the chicken ver the chicken on on top and add add sufficient top and sufficient veal veal stock stock to to co cover the chicken. chicken. Simmer Simmer with with the lid on the lid on for for about about 50 50 minutes. minutes. Blanch, Blanch, trim press under and press trim and under a a weight weight for for 30 30 minutes minutes 3 3 calves' calves' sweetbreads, sweetbreads, having having removed removed ail all membranes. membranes. About About 35 35 minutes minutes before before serving, serving, eut cut the the sweetbreads in slices I cm. cm. sweetbreads in slices1 (t just coyer (| inch) inch) thick, put in pan, just thick, put in a a pan, cover with with white white veal veal stock, stock, add piece of add a a piece of butter butter and and simmer. simmer.

Roasting chickens, Roasting chickens, Angers (French (French Government Government Tourisi Tourist Office) Ofice)

chlcken. poULARDE POULARDE ndrn RTIE - Truss the Roast chicken. the chicken chicken and and season inside and and outside. Coyer season Cover the breast breast with with a a thin thin slice slice

of bacon fat, and roast roast in the the oven oyen or the spit. ofbacon cooking or on on the spit. For cooking see CULINARY CULINARY METHODS, METHODS, Average Average cooking times, see cooking limes times for roasts. for Serve with the the cooking cooking juices, and watercress. Serve and watercress. Roast chicken chlcken ir I'anglaiss. l'anglaise. poULARDE POULARDE RTIE L'ANGLAISERoast n6rre A L'ANGLATsE Roast the chicken in the usual way. Surround Surround with with slices slices of of grilJed sausages, sausages, and serve serve with Bread sauce bacon or grilled (see with Bread sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Roast chicken chicken d I'anglaise l'anglaise may may also also be be prepared in Roast in the the Roast turkey turkey it I'anglaise l'anglaise (see (see TURKEY). same way as as Roast same TURKEY). Chlcken with with rock rock (coarse) (coarse) salt salt. powl.RDE POULARDE AU AU GROS Chicken cRos SEL sEL Poach the the chicken in in white white stock. stock. Serve with its its strained Poach Serve with strained and rock (coarse) salt. cooking Iiquor cooking liquor and rock salt. 230 230

Roast chicken (A.B.e.) Roast chicken (A.B.C.)

CHICKEN CHICKEN
Prepare Prepare f litre litre (1| (I! pints, pints, lf Il pints) pints) fresh fresh Mushroom Mushroom purie (see (see MUSHROOMS). MUSHROOMS). Add Add 2 2 dl. dl. (] (1 pint, pint, scant seant cup) fresh cream to to bring bring it ie to to the the consistency consistency of of an an ordinary ordinary sauce, sauce, and and cream mix into into it il 150 150 g. g. (5 (5 oz.) oz.) mushrooms mushrooms chopped and and cooked. cooked. mix

white white stock stock or or broth, broth, the the sauce sauce may may be he thickened thickened with with a a little liUle butter butter and and flour flour worked worked together. together. The The same same applies applies to to d blanc blanc chicken chicken saut6s. sauts.
Saut6 Sau t the the chicken chicken in in butter butter d blanc. blanc. Dilute Dil Ule the Ihe cooking cooking juices juices with dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, scant seant + t cup) cup) white white stock stock and and boil bail with I1 dl. down. down. Stir Stir in in 1 dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seant 1: cup) cup) chicken chicken Velouti Veloute sauce sauce (see (sec SAUCE), SAUCE), add add 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tabletablespoons) spoons) Soubise Soubise purie pure (see (sec PUREE), PURE), 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) cream cream and and 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz.,t oz., 1cup) cup) butter. butter. Strain Strain the the

Sautied Sauted chicken cruckco Alexandra. Alexandra. PoULET POULET SAUTE SAUT ALExANDRA ALEXANDRA

Drain the the chicken, chicken, remove rem ove the the barding and and trussing Drain and surround surround with with the the slices slices of sweetbread. Coat Coat the strings and chicken and the sauce and the the garnish gamish with wth some sorne of orthe sauce and and serve serve the the rest separately. separately. rest

la la Rossini. Rossini. poULARDE POULARDE A r,c, LA nosslNl ROSS1NT - Cook Cook the the Chicken. I Chicken ehicken, covered, covered, in in butter butter in in the the oven. oyen. Set Set it it on on a a dish dish and and chicken, surround it il with with slices slices of/ore of foie gras gras tossed tossed in in butter. butter. Placn Place 2 2 surround slices of of trufre lruffle heated heated in in butter butter on on each each slice slice of offoie foie gras. gras. slices
Pour over over the the chicken chicken its cooking cooking juices diluted dilutoo with w:th Pour Madeira and and truffie-flavoured truffle-fiavoured Rich Rich brown sauce sauce (see (see Madeira he placed placed in pastry pastry SAUCE). The slices of foie gras may be

sauce. sauce.

ENNE ENNE - Saut6 Saut

cases, or or on on slices slices ofbread fried in in butter. butter. cases. salado sluDE SALADE DE DE voLAILLE VOLA1LLE - Set Set sliced cooked Chicken salad. shredded lettuce, lettuce, sprinkle sprinkle with chicken on a foundation of shredded Vinaigre/le sauce sauce (see (sec SAUCE) and and garnish gamish with with lettuce leltuce Vinaigrette hearts and quartered hard-boiled eggs. hearts Saureoo chicken. pour,Ers POULETS sAUTEs SAUTS - Small Small tender tender fowls, Saut6ed welghing from 900 to 1800 1800 g. (2 to 4 lb.) lh.) are more mOrc suited to weighing this way way than than fat fowls and capons. The The chicken being cooked this he saut6ed sauted rapidly rapidly in butter, butter, in in oil oil or or in fat, but hut should shouJd should be juices. he allowed to ta boil boil in its itsjuices. not b To cut eut up the chicken for cooking, divide it into ioto joints. joints. Cut away the leg at its thickest part, having cut through through the joint. Heating the feet makes them easier to lo skin. Spring chickens are sim ply divided into ioto halves, which whch are simply lightly flattened. flaltened. lightly ofchicken To saut pieces of chicken and put them (hem in sauti Season pieces d blanc. Season a heated butter. butter. Saut6 Saut the the pieces without without allowing a!!owing a pan of heated at moderate heat. hrown. Cover Coyer the lhe pan and cook al them to brown. Pour off the Take out Oul the the wings and tirs\. pour the butter, Take and breasts first. juice or white stock, mushroom juice dilute the the pan juices with with white cream, and add a sauce. Garnish. (scant i cup) butter or sauti il it brull. brun. Heat 3 lablespoons tablespoons (seant! To saur add seasoned seasoned pieces of chicken. Brown well oil in a pan pan and add and cook over a low heat. After 6 or 8 cover, and on bOlh both sides, sides, cover, and the of breast, breast, and the pieces of minutes, lake take out out the the wings and most delieate, delicate, are being the mst keep them them warm. warrn. (These parts, heing for cooked the soonest.) Leave the legs and carcases to cook for 8 to 12 minutes, according to sizc. size. to 12 cooking fat, pieces of ehicken, chicken, remove remove the the cooking Take out out the the pieces juices wilh in the recipe with the liquid specified in dilute the juiees - wine, juices, etc. and Boil down this liquor liquor by by half and etc. Boil stock or meat jUlces, add add a a sauce. sauce. pan, coyer keep cover and and keep pieces of chicken in in the pan, of crucken Put Put back back the the pieces Garnish. warm, wann, but but avoid avoid boiling. Gamish. and cook cook the the pieces To saut sauti la minagire. Brown and Ta it bnm brun d la I tahleAdd 1 tableTake [hem out of of the pan. Add chicken as as ahove. above. Take them out of of chicken pan and colour and allow allow to to colour liquor in in the the pan spoon flour to spoon f10ur to the the liquor
and liquid. Boil Boil down down and wine or other liquid. slightly. th wine Dilute wi with or other slightly. Dilute (+ pint, or pint, scant consomm6 or 2 dL cup) white white stock, stock, consomm then add 2 dl. (1 scant cup) then add 15 minutes, with a a wooden wooden 12 to minutes, stining stirring with water. Cook Cook for for 12 to 15 water. spoon, and strain. spoon, and strain. pan, pour the pieces or in the the chicken in the covered covered pan, Replace the of ehicken the pieces avoid boiling. warm, but but avoid sauce sauce over over and and keep keep warm, saut6ed garnishes for chicken include saUled for sauted saut6ed chcken The The many many gamishes pieces of glazd carroIs, celeriac, brussels brussels of celeriac, carrots, smaU small pieces aubergines, aubergines, glazed (zucchinis), marrows (zucchinis), sprouts in in butter, cucumbers, baby baby marrows sprouts butter, cucumbers, glazed onions, noodles, cream, small onions, noodles, in butter or cream, small glazed sweetcom butter or sweetcorn in macaroni, macaroni, riee, rice, etc. etc. pan juices of of the the the diluted diluted pan follow, the In In the which follow, the recipes which as added to to them, such such as have sauces chicken chicken saut6es should sauces added should have (demi-glace) sauce (demi-glace) Rich brown brown sauce stock or or Rich thickened thickened brown brown veal veal stock (see SAUCE). added to to them. them. sauce can can he be added Tomato sauce (see SAUCE). Tomato and preparations are with wine wine and are diluted diluted with When When the the saut saut6 preparations

minutes, minutes, stirring. stirring. Put Put back back the chicken chicken in in the the pan pan and and simmer 8 to to l0 JO minutes minutes without without boiling. boiling. When When serving the the chicken, chicken, garnish gamish with with 2 2 diced diced aubergines aUbel"gJllles saut6ed sauted in in oil. Pour the the sauce over the the chicken ehicken and and sprinkle with wilh chopped parsley. parsley. Saut6ed Sauted chicken chickeo ambassadrice. ambassadrice. PouLEr POULET sAUTE SAUT AMBAsAM BASSADRIcE Saut the chicken and 8 mushrooms mushrooms in in butter butter d SADR1CE - Saut6 brun. Dllute DiJute the pan pan juices juices with with + dl. dl. (3 (3 tablespoons, tahlespoons, scant scant I (+ cup) Madeira. Madeira. Boil Boil down the liquid and and pour pour in in l+ It dl. dl. Hgrary. Cook at pint, pint,1 eup) thickened thickened veal gravy. at boiling hoiling point point for for a a J cup) few moments. 8 Garnish Gamish the cooked chicken with with 8 cocks' coeks' combs combs and and 8 stock,4 cocks' kidneys kidneys cooked cookcd in light ligbt stock, 4 chicken livers livers saut6ed sauted in butter, bUller, the mushrooms, and and 8 slices of of truffie. trume. Coat Coat with with the sauce. sauce. A s,c'urE mode. PoULET Sautded Sauted chicken chicken A fi I'ancienne l'ancienne mode. POULET SAUT MoDE- Saut6 L'ANcIENNE L'ANCIENNE MODESaute the the chicken cbicken in butterdblanc.Dilute butter blanc. Dilute cup) white or the pan with with l| q dl. (t t eup) white stock stock or the juices in the pan $ pint,3 stir stock. boil mushroom stock, boi1 down to two-thirds two-thirds of of its its volume, volume, stir (see SAUCE) sauce (sec SAUCE) Velouti sauce in U dl. in 1-1 dl. i cup) chicken Velout $ pint, 3 (2 oz., and g. (2 oz., t 50 g. and boil { cup) butter, and and hoil for 5 minutes. Add Add 50 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) chopped truffies tablespoons (3 strain. Add 2 tahlespoons strain. port. (6 tahlespoons, cup) port. scantI and 1 I dl. (6 tablespoons, seant and t cup) garnish with rosettes with rosettes and garnish sauce and Coat the chicken with the sauce of puff pastry. ANNETTE Saut6 PouLET SAUTE slur6 ANNETTE Annette. POULET chicken Aooette. Saut6ed chickell - Saut juices with with white white pan juices Dilute Ihe the pan d brun. Dilute in hutter butter the chicken in and liquid, and Boil down down the the liquid, I chopped shallot. Boil add 1 and add wine and for a a brown grary. Boil pint, 3 eup) cup) Ihickened thickened brown l| add 1 dl. Ct add ~ dl. Boil for $ pint, parsley, chervil few moments. moments. Add t few I tablespoon chopped lemon juice and 1 tablespoon of lemon a squeeze squeeze of and tarragon, tarragon, a and fresh butter. fresh (see potatoes (see Annette po/aioes of Annelle in a a crust crust of chicken in Set tbe the ehicken Set sauce. with the sauce. Coat wi POTATOES). Coat th the potatoes with straw potatoes is is made made with straw potatoes The crust crust of Annette potatoes The dish with a a small potatoes, hut small dish but with Anna pOlatoes, like Anna in butter cooked in butter like cooked cake. hollow cake. form a a hollow potatoes 10 to form put in the middle of of the potaloes put ARcHIDUc -PoULET SAUT sA,ur6 ARCHIDUC Archduke. POULET chickm Archdllke. Saut6ed chicken Sauted cooked it is is half half cooked When it blanc. When it blanc. in butter butter chicken in Saut6 the the chieken Saut lightly (3 tablespoons) onion lightly chopped onion tablespoons) chopped 2 tahlespoons tablespoons (J add 2 add paprika. pinch of of paprika. a pinch and a in bUller, cooked in butter, and cooked (6 tabJespoons, juices with scant I cU. tablespoons, scant with 1 dl. (6 Dilute the cooking juices the eooking Dilute (+ pinl, pint, t cup) pour in in 11 l+ dl. dl. (a down, pour wine, boil boil down, cup) white white wine, J cup) 1 1 cup) g.(2 cup) oz., ! Add 50 50 g. moments. Add for a a few few moments. and boil boil for cream and * cup) cream (2 OZ., juice to and sl'rain. st'rain' sauce and the sauce lemon juice to the a squeeze of lemon and a squeeze of butter and butter and in ehunks chunks and cut in cucumbers CUI with cucumbers chicken with Garnish the the chieken Gamish with the the sauce. sauce. Coat with in butter. butter. Coat simmered in simmered
DUc SALVATOR sALvATon DUC

Sautded Sauted chicken ch.ickcn a a I'algSrienne. l'algrienne. PouLET POULET seurf SAUT A L'arc6ruL'ALGRIthe the chicken chicken in in oil oil d il brun. brull. When When half-cooked, half-cooked, add add I1 tablespoon tahlespoon chopped chopped onion. onion. Take Take out out the the chicken; chicken; put in in the the pan pan a a crushed crushed garlic garlic clove clove and 2 peeled, peeled, drained and chopped tomatoes; lomatoes; cook cook for for 8 8

ARcHIsnurf ARCH1PoULE-t SAUT Archduke Salvator. Salvator. POULET chicken Archduke Sautffi chicken Sauted Archduke. chickm Archduke. as for for Sauted Sautied chicken Prepare as - Prepare garnish (see GALETTE) and garnjsh galette (see GALETTE) and Potato galelle a POlala Set it it on on a Set and mushrooms and butter, sauted saut6ed mushrooms in hutter, simmered in cucumbers simmered with cucumbers with

of truffle. trufle. slices of sUces 23r 231

CHICKEN CHICKEN
There are are numerous numerous ways ways of of cooking Chicken Chicken Arch&tke. Archduke. The basic basic recipe recipe is is saut6ed sauted chicken chicken to to which which has has been been added added onion on ion and and cream. cream. The method method of of diluting diluting the the juices juices may be be varied varied by by using using brandy brandy or or Madeira, Madeira, the sauce finished off with cucumbers, with whisky whisky or or port, port, the the garnish garnish composed of cucumbers, mushrooms, mushrooms, quartered quartered artichokes artichokes or or truffies. truffles. Saut6ed Sauted chicken chicken with with artichokes. artichokes. pouLET POULET slur6 SAUT lux AUX ARTIcHAUTS ARTICHAUTS - Saut6 Saut the the chicken in in butter butter d brun. brun. When When it it is is half-cooked, half-cooked, add add 12 12 quarters quarters of of well weil blanched blanched artichokes. artichokes. Finish Finish cooking cooking all all these these together. together. Take Take out out the the chicken chicken and and artichokes. artichokes. Dilute Dilute the the pan pan juices juices with with I1 dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant + 1cup) cup) white white wine, wine, boil boil down, down, pour pour in in 1+ 11 dl. dl. (+ (t pint, pint, J t cup) cup) thickened thickened rich rich brown brown veal veal gravy. Set Set the the chicken chicken on on a dish, dish, garnish garnish with with the the quarters quarters of artichokes, artichokes, and and coat coat with with the the sauce. sauce. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with chopped parsley. parsley. The The chicken chicken may may also also be be garnished garnished with with artichoke artichoke bases, bases, cooked cooked in in a a flour-and-water fiour-and-water court-bouillon, court-bouillon, sliced sliced and and saut6ed sauted with with the the chicken. chicken. Sautied Sauted chicken chicken with with basil. basil. pouI"E-r POULET slur6 SAUT AU AU BAsrLrc BASILIC juices Saut6 Saut the the chicken chicken in in butter, butter, browning browning it. it. Dilute Dilute the the pan panjuices with with 2 2 dl. dl. ({ (t pint, pint, scant scant cup) cup) white white wine wine and and add add I1 tablespoon tablespoon chopped chopped basil. basil. Boil Boil down down the the liquid liquid by by half. half. Add Add 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz., OZ., juice. t cup) cup) butter; butter; mix mix well. weIl. Coat Coat the the chicken chicken with with this thisjuice. * Sautded Sauted chicken chicken I la la biarrotte. biarrotte. pouLEr POULET slurf SAUT A r.l LA srA,nBIARRorrE ROTTE - Saut6 Saut the the chicken chicken in in oil oil d brun. brun. juices with Dilute Dilute the the pan panjuices with white white wine, wine, boil boil down, down, and and pour pour in in I 1 dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant * 1 cup) cup) Tomato Tomato sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Add Add a a crushed crushed clove clove of of garlic. garlic. Garnish Garnish the the chicken chicken with with 125 125 g. g. (4 (4 oz.) oz.) cipes cpes (q.v.) (q.v.) saut6ed sauted in in oil, oil, 125 125 g. g. (4 (4 oz.) oz.) diced diced potatoes potatoes saut6ed sauted in in oil, oil, a a peeled, peeled, diced diced and and saut6ed sauted aubergine aubergine and and a a medium-sized medium-sized onion onion cut cut in in rings rings and and fried. fried. Arrange Arrange in in separate separate groups groups round round the the chicken. chicken. Sauteed Sauted chicken chicken i la la boh6mienne. bohmienne. pournr POULET s.lurf SAUT A ul LA BoHEMTENNE BOHMIENNE - Saut6 Saut the the chicken, chicken, seasoned seasoned with with paprika, paprika, in in oil oil d brun. brun. When When it it is is half-cooked, half-cooked, add add 4 4 sweet sweet pimentos pimentos peeled peeled and and cut cut in in large large strips, strips, 2 2 tomatoes tomatoes peeled peeled and and cut cut in in thick cut in in small small dice dice and and thick slices, slices, a a medium-sized medium-sized onion on ion cut blanched, blanched, a a crushed crushed clove clove ofgarlic of garlic and and a a teaspoon teaspoon chopped chopped fennel. fenne!. Dilute add + 1dl. dl. (3 (3 tabletableDilute the the pan pan juices juices with with white white wine, wine, add spoons, spoons, scant scant + t cup) cup) thickened thickened rich rich brown brown veal veal gravy, gravy, and and finish finish with with a a squeeze squeeze of oflemon lemon juice. juice. Set Setthe thechicken chicken on ona adish, dish, coat coatwith with the thesauce sauce and and serve servewith with Rice Riced I'indienne l'indienne (see (see RICE). RICE). Saut6ed Saoted chicken chicken Boivin Boivin (Mont-Bry's (Mont-Bry's recipe). recipe). pouI,Er POULET slurE chicken lightly SAUT BorvrN BOIVIN - 'Cook 'Cook a a jointed jointedchicken lightly in in butter, butter, browning browning a a little little on on both both sides. sides. When When the the pieces pieces are are lightly lightly browned, browned, put put in in the the pan pan 24 24 small small onions onions that that have have been been tossed tossed in in butter, butter, 12 12 quarters quarters of of small small blanched blanched artichokes, artichokes, and and 24 24 small small new new potatoes potatoes of of uniform uniforro size size and and shape. shape. Season. Season. Cook, Cook, covered, covered, on on a a gentle gentle heat. heat. 'Drain 'Drain the the pieces pieces of of chicken. chicken. Set Set them them on on a a dish dish and and arrange arrange the the garnish garnish of of onions, on ions, artichokes artichokes and and potatoes potatoes juices diluted round roundthem. them. Pour Pourover overthe the chicken chickenthe thecooking cookingjuices diluted with pot-au-feu btoth, broth, with with the the addition addition of of2 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 withpot-au-fat tablespoons) tablespoons)dissolved dissolved meat meat glaze, glaze, sharpened sharpened with with a a squeeze squeeze oflemon lemonjuice, juice, and and with with butter butter added.' added.' of Sauteed Sauted chicken chicken i la la bordelaise. bordelaise. pourpr POULET slurf SAUT A re LA BoRDELAISEBORDELAlSE - Saut6 Sautthe thechicken chickenin inaamixture mixture of ofoil oil and and butter. butter. Finish Finish as as in in the the recipe recipe for for Sautied Sauted chickm chicken with with white white wine wine (see (seebelow). below).Add Add to tothe thesauce sauce I1tablespoon tablespoon Tomato Tomato sauce sauce(see (see SAUCE) and and aa crushed crushed clove clove of ofgarlic. garlic. SAUCE) Garnish Garnish the the chicken chicken with with 125 125 g. g. (4 (4 oz.) oz.) sliced sliced potatoes potatoes sauted in in butter, butter, 2 2blanched blanched artichokes artichokes cut cut in in quarters quarters and and saut6d cookedin in butter, butter, several several sprigs sprigsfried fried parsley, parsley, and2 and 2mediummediumcooked sized onions onions cut cut in in rings rings and and fried. fried. Coat Coat with with the the sauce. sauce. sized

Saute<! chicken la bordelaise

Sauted chicken i la la bourguignonne. bourguignonne. pouLET POULET slurf SAUT A r.l LA Sauteed BouRcuIGNoNNs BOURGUIGNONNE - Saut6 Saut the the chicken in butter butter d brun. When three-quarters cooked add 12 12 small glazed glazed onions, 12 12 mushthree-quarters rooms lightly lightly cooked in butter butter and 2 2 slices blanched, diced diced rooms lean bacon bacon lightly lightly fried fried in butter. butter. lean Take out out the the chicken chicken and its its accompaniments. Dilute Dilute the the Take pan pan juices juices with with 2 2 dl. (] (t pint, pint, scant scant cup) red red wine and add a crushed clove clove of of garlic. garlic. Boil Boil down down to to two-thirds, two-thirds, add add l] 11 dl. crushed (t pint, pint, 3 t cup) cup) Rich Rich brown brown sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE), cook cook at $ boiling point point for for a a few few moments, moments, and and strain. strain. boiling Surround the the chicken chicken with with the the garnish, garnish, and coat coat with with the the Surround sauce. Heart-shaped Heart-shaped crottons crotonsfried in butter butter may may be be added. added. sauce. fried in Sauted chicken chicken I la la bourguignonne bourguignonne or or en en matelote. matelote. pouLET POULET Saut6ed
SAUT A r,c, LA souncurcNoNNE, BOURGUIGNONNE, EN EN MATELoTE MATELOTE slurf -

in butter butter Fry in

2 slices slices blanched blanched lean lean bacon bacon cut cut in in big big dice. dice. Add Add 12 12 blanched blanched 2 small onions, onions, cook cook till till golden, golden, and and add add 12 12 small small mushrooms. mushrooms. small Remove these these ingredients, ingredients, which which form forro the the garnish, garnish, and Remove brown quickly quickly pieces pieces of of chicken chicken in in the the same same fat. fat. When When they they brown are half-cooked, half-cooked, put put the the garnish garnish back back in in the the pan, pan, cover,and cover, -and are cook for for 15 15 minutes. minutes. cook Take out out the the chicken chicken and and the the garnish. garnish. Dilute Dilute the the pan pan juices juices Take (t pint, pint, scant scant cup) cup) red red wine, wine, boil boil down down to to half, half, and and with 2 2 dl. d!. $ with thicken with with I 1 tablespoon tablespoon butter butter mixed mixed with with a a little little flour. fiour. thicken Strain. Strain. Surround the the chicken chic ken pieces pieces with with the the garnish garnish and and pour pour the the Surround sauce over. over. sauce Sauted chicken chicken in in butter butter or or i la la minute. minute. pouLET POULET slurE SAUT lu AU Saut6ed BEURRE, A r,c, LA MTNUTE MINUTE - Saut6 Saut the the chicken chicken in in butter butter it brun. brun. BEURRE, To serve, serve, squeeze squeeze lemon lemon juice juice over, over, pour pour on on the the very very hot hot To cooking butter, butter, and and sprinkle sprinkle with with chopped chopped parsley. parsley. cooking Sauted chicken chicken with with cOpcs cpes I. 1. pournr POULET s,c,ur6 SAUT lux AUX ciprs CPES Saut6ed Saut the the chicken chicken in in oil oil or or in in a a mixture mixture of of oil oil and and butter. butter. Saut6 When it it is is three-quarters three-quarters cooked, cooked, add add 300 300 g. g. (ll (II oz.) oz.) white white When cpes (q.v.) (q.v.) which which have have been been cut cut into into thick thick slices slices and and saut6ed sauted cipes in oil. oil. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with chopped chopped onion. onion. in juices with Drain the thechicken chicken and, and cCpes. cpes. Dilute Dilute the the pan panjuices with I1dl. dl. Drain (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant * 1cup) cup) white white wine, wine, boil boil down down and and add add 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz., oz., It cup) cup) butter. butter. 50 Gamish the the chicken chicken with with the the cipes, cpes, coat with with the the juice, juice, Garnish chopped parsley. parsley. A A crushed crushed clove clove of of and sprinkle sprinkle with with chopped and garIic may may be be added. added. garlic Sauted chicken chicken with with cdpes cpes II. n. pourer POULET slurf SAUT AUx AUX ciprs CPES Saut6ed Prepare the the chicken chicken as as for for Sautied Sauted chicken chicken with with white white wine wine Prepare (see below). below). Garnish Garnish with with Clpes Cpes d la la bordelare bordelaise (see (see MUSHMUSH(see ROOMS). Coat Coat with with the the sauce sauce and and sprinkle sprinkle with with chopped chopped ROOMS). parsley. parsley. 232 232

CHICKEN CHICKEN
and Garnish Garnish the the chicken chicken with with buttered buttered French French beans, beans, and in truffies truffies which which have have been been cut cut in in thick thick strips strips and and heated heated in sherry. Coat with with the the sauce. sauce. sherry. Coat slur6 Saut6ed Sauted chicken chicken fermi0re fernre or or I la la paysanne. paysanne. PouLET POULET SA uT plvslNrrrs Saut6 the chicken as above. Add rrnMrins, FERMIRE, A rlc, LA PAYSANNE - Saut the chicken as above. Add (see l+ It dl. dl. (+ (t pint, pint, J t oup) cup) Vegetable Vegetable fon&te fondue (see FONDUE). FONDUE). Finish Finish cooking cooking together. together. Set Set the the chicken chcken and and vegetables vegetables in in an an earthenware earthenware dish dish or or casserole, casserole, add add 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons diced diced lean lean ham ham and and simmer, simmer, covered, covered, in in the the oven. oyen. (* pint, t cup) juices with 1| Dilute Dilute the the cooking cooking juices with It dl. dl. (t pint, I cup)

Sauteed Sa uted chicken chicken chasseur chasseur

Sauted chicken chicken chasseur. chasseur. PouLEt POULET sAUTE SAUT cHAssEUR CHASSEUR - Saut6 Saut Saut6ed of oil and butter. When it it is threethreethe chicken in a mixture of mushrooms. quarters cooked, add 125 g. (4 oz.) sliced mushrooms. scant * Dilute the pan pan juices juices with I 1 dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, ta blespoons, scant t cup) cup) shallot, boil a chopped shallot, Add a boil down, down, add add It dl. dl. white wine. Add (| (t pint, pint, 3 t cup) thickened veal gravy and I t dl. (3 (3 tablespoons, tablespoons, for a a few (see SAUCE). Boil sauce (see scant Boil for few Tomato sauce cup) Tomato scint t cup) finely I tablespoon finely and 1 1 tablespoon brandy and add I moments, add parsley, chervil and tarragon. chopped parsley, chopped with chopped Coat the chicken chicken with the sauce and sprinkle with parsley. parsley. AUx sAUrE AUX PouLEr SAUT chayotes. POULET with chayotes. Sauted cNcken with Saut6ed chicken artichokes. chickm with artichokes. fot Sauted Sautied chicken as for CHAYOTTES cHAYorrEs - Proceed as custard or custard quarters of chayotes or Garnish the chicken with quarters the chicken sauce. the sauce. coat with the (q.v.) stewed and coat in butter, and marrows (q.v.) stewed in u' CRME cniun slur6 LA PouLET SAUT cream. POULET Sauted ken with with cream. chicken Sautfed chic juices with pan juices with Dilute the the pan blanc. Dilute d blanc. Saut in butter chicken in Saut6 the chicken half. to half. Boil down down to generous cup) cream. Boil (scant t cup) cream. pint, generous 2t 2* dl. dl. (scant I pint, with the the chicken with the chicken Coat the (2 oz., Add g. (2 cup) butter. butter. Coat oz., t Add 50 50 g. * cup) I or or with 1 thickened with be thickened may be sauce. The cooking juices may The diluted diluted cookingjuices (see SAUCE). SAUCE). sauce (see VeloutC sauce 2 chicken Velout 2 tablespoons tablespoons chicken See AU CURRIE cURRIE - See PouLEr SAUT slurf AU Sauted curry. POULET chicken curry. Sauted chicken d l'indienne. I'indienne. below chicken SautCed chicken below Sauted DEMIDoFF slur6 DEMIDOFF PouLET SAUT Demidofr. POULET Sauted chicken Demidoff. Sautfed chicken is half-cooked half-cooked it is When brun. Wh d brun. in butter butter Saut en it chicken in Saut6 the the chicken vegetables chopped vegetables pur6e of cooked chopped of cooked add t dl. pint, t cup), pure 1| dl. (t add 1 3 cup), Q pint, Demidoff. d la la Demidoff. I tableand 1 tabletruffies and 2 sliced add 2 sliced truffies At cooking add end of of cooking At the the end chicken the chicken Take out out the parsley leaves. leaves' Take spoon curly parsley blanched curly spoon blanched juices with (3 tablespoons, tablespoons' with t* dl. dl. (3 pan juices and garnish, dilute the pan dilute the its garnish, and its pint' t3 cup) cup) l] dl. dl. (t add It and add down and scant Boil down cup) Madeira. Madeira. Boil scant t+ cup) Q pint, (seeSAUCE). Rich SAUCE). sauce (see Rich brown brown sauce with coat wi vegetables, with the vegeta To th the bles, coat th chicken wi the chicken cover the To serve, serve. coyer in batter batter dipped in onion dipped the garnish with of onion with slices slices of and garnish sauce and the sauce and fried. and fried. as Proceed as DURoc - - Proceed s,c,urE DUROC PouLEr SAUT Sauted Duroc. POULET chicken Duroc. Saut6ed chicken for chasseur. Sautied chicken chicken chasseur. for Sauted peeledand and tomatoes peeled Garnish with 88 small small tomatoes chicken with Garnish the the chicken potatoes (5oz.) newpotatoes g.(5 small new simmered 150g. oz') small with 150 andwith butter, and in butter, simmered in chopped withchopped sprinklewith cooked withthe thesauce, sauce, sprinkle Coat with in butter. butter. Coat cooked in parsley. parsley. r'fcosPoULETSAUT slurfiAL'COSSauted l'6cossaise.POULET chicken l'cossaise. SautH chicken it. SAISE browning it. inbutter, butter, browning chickenin Saut6the sAIsE- -Saut thechicken (3tablespoons, juiceswith scantt tablespoons, scant Dilute witht dl. dl.(3 panjuices the pan Dilute the (+pint, pint,tIcup) cup)thickened thickened cup) l+dl. dl.(i andadd add1t Boildown downand cup)sherry. sherry. Boil g. add50 50g. andadd brown moments, and fewmoments, gravy.Boil foraafew Boilfor vealgravy. brown veal (2 i cup) (2oz., cup)butter. butter. oz.,l

l|

thickened thickened veal veal gravy gravy and and sprinkle sprinkle over over the the dish. dish. pourrr lux chickm aux Saut6ed Sautedchicken aux fines fines herbes herbes I. J. POULET slurf SAUT AUX brun. d in butter FrNEs FINFS HERBEs. HERBES. Saut6 Saut the the chicken chicken in butter brun. wine, Dilute Dilute the tbe pan pan juices juices with with lf li dt. dl. 6r pint, pin t, t cup) cup) white white wine, (+ pint, l+ dl. and add Boil down shallot. a chopped add add a chopped shallot. Boil down and add It dl. (t pint, t cup) cup) thickened thickened brown brown veal veal gravy. gravy. Boil Boil for for a a few few moments. moments. and tarraAdd Add * t tablespoon tablespoon finely finely chopped chopped parsley, parsley, chervil chervil and tarrajuice, gon, gon, a a squeeze squeeze of of lemon lemon juice, and and I 1 tablespoon tablespoon fresh fresh butter. butter. chicken. When to serve, When ready readyto serve, pour pour this this sauce sauce over over the the chicken. snurf lux II. pournr fines herbes Sautff Sauted chicken chic ken atx aux fines herbes II. POULET SAUT AUX put on a dish. on a and put as above, above, and chicken as FrNEs FINFS HERBEsHERBES - Saut6 Saut the the chicken dish. (3 tablespoons, scant t dl. (3 tablespoons, scant cooking juices Dilute + I dl. Dilute the the cooking juices with with t and t tablespoon tablespoon shallot and a chopped chopped shallot wine. Add cup) cup) white white wine. Add a away Draw away and tarragon. tarragon. Draw chervil and chopped parsley, finely finely chopped parsley, chervil a squeeze and a g. (2 butter and cup) butter oz., t 50 g. add 50 and add from Q oz., I cup) from the the heat heat and squeeze lemon. of lemon. of A LA PoULET SAUT slurf la Oorentine. florentine. POULET chicken la Sautded chicken Sauted various with various chicken with for Sauted Sautied chicken as for Proceed as FLoRENTINE - Proceed FLORENTINE (see RICE) Risotto (see of Risotto in a a border border of chicken in Set the wines. Set the chicken wines. RICE) (3 tablespoons) truffies. chopped truffies. tablespoons) chopped 2 tablespoons with 2 tablespoons (3 mixed with mixed boiled down. down. well boiled been weil has been which has with the sauce. which Coat with the sauce, Coat pourEr SAUT A LA snurt forestiire. POULET la forestire. chicken Saut6ed chic Sauted ken la with mushmushchicken with for Sauted Sautted chicken Proceed as as for ronrsrdns - Proceed FORESTIRE (5 oz.) g. (5 150 g. by 150 (see below). mushrooms by the mushrooms Replace the below). Replace rooms (see rooms oz.) potatoes sau(5 oz.) saug. (5 diced potatoes oz.) diced 150 g. in butter, butter, ISO saut6ed in morels sauted morels (4 oz.) cardoons. g. (4 small blanched blanched cardoons. oz.) small 100 g. and 100 in butter butter and t6ed in ted AUx JETS JErs slur6 AUX PouLET SAUT hop shoots. shoots POULET with hop chicken with Sautded chicken Sauted Dilute the the d brun. brun. Dilute in butter butter chicken Saut6 the the chic HouBLoN -- Saut DE HOUBLON DE ken in and add add thickened thickened juices with down and wine, boil boil down with white white wine, pan juices pan (11 oz.) g. (II 300 g. with 300 chicken with gravy. Garnish Garnish the the chicken veal gravy. brown veal brown oz.) in butter. butter. cooked in hop shoots shoots cooked hop pourE'r slur6 I. in cream shoots hop shoots in cream I. POULET SAUT with hop chicken with Saut6ed chicken Sauted as for chicken as the chicken Prepare the ctitvm -- Prepare A LA rl CRME HouBLoN DE HOUBLON Aux JETS JETS DE AUX for in garnish hop shoots with and cream, with chickm Sautded Sauted chicken with cream, and garnish with hop shoots in cream. cream. poursr s,lur6 II. POULET in cream cream ll. shoots in hopshoots with hop chicken with Saut6ed chicken Sauted SAUT in chicken in the chicken Cook the cntrr,rr - Cook A LA r.n CRME HouBLoN DE HOUBLON AUx JETS JETs DE AUX into flour into I tablespoon Put 1 tablespoonflour pan. Put of the the pan. it out out of and take take it butter and butter it to colour. tocolour. allowing it without allowing cook without and cook butter and cooking butter the cooking the or whitestock stock or cup) white (6 tablespoons, scant t1 cup) tablespoons, scant dl. (6 in 1 dl. Stir in Stir tablespoons add33tablespoons andadd one-third and byone-third down by Boil down consomm6. Boil consomm. above. asabove. (scant tt cup) Garnish as cream.Garnish cup)cream. (scant AL'INDIENNEI'ntoIENNE slurf PouLETSAUT I.POULET I'indienne J. i l'indienne chicken Saut6ed chic Sauted ken chopped largechopped Add1Ilarge oildblanc. oroil butteror in butter chicken in Saut6 the thechicken Saut blanc. Add pieces asthe thepieces powder. As Assoon soonas curry powder. tablespoon curry and1I tablespoon onion and onion flour. tablespoon flour. over them them1I tablespoon sprinkle over arefirm, firm,sprinkle chicken are of chicken of (| pint, pint' pour in dl.(t in22dl. and pour stirring,and moments, stirring, foraafew fewmoments, Cookfor Cook with garniand andcook cookwith bouquetgarni Addaabouquet whitestock. stock. Add cup)white scant cup) scant pancovered. covered. thepan the boiledtheboiledwiththe coatwith andcoat timbale and inaatimbale chickenin Setthe thechicken Set juice has Serve added.Serve beenadded. hasbeen lemonjuice whichlemon towhich down sauce, sauce, to down (seeRICE). RICE). Riceit/'indienne I'indienne (see with Rice with pourrr SAUT L'INprENNs slur6AL'INDIENNE II.POULET I'indienne II. chickenil'indienne Saut6ed chicken Sauted putititinto intoa a piecesand andput intosmall smallpieces chicken into Cutup upthe thechicken - Cut (aoz.) g'(4 diced oz.)diced 100g. onion,100 chopped onion, largechopped which1Ilarge inwhich casserole in casserole been alreadybeen havealready applehave gratedeating eatingapple largegrated and1 large hamand harn bay (withoil sprigofthyme, of thyme, Adda a lard)'Add orlard). oilor inbutter butter(with heatedin heated sprig aa bay

rl

rl

233 233

CHICKEN CHICKEN
pinch of leaf,aapinch ofcardamom, cardamom, aapinch pinch of pinch of ofcinnamon, cinnamon, aapinch of leaf, mace and and 22crushed garlic. Sprinkle crushed cloves cloves of of garlic. Sprinkle in.4 in4 teaspoons teaspoons mace powder and curry powder and mix. mix. Add Add 22peeled peeled and and seeded seeded tomatoes. tomatoes. curry (* pint, pint,scant Pour in in44dL dl. G: 2cups) scant 2 cups)cocoout coconut milk milk and andcook cook for for Pour 40 minutes. (6 tablespoons, minutes. Add Add 1I dL dl. (6 tablespoons, scant scant 1 cup) double double + cup) 40 juice of cream and and the the juice of 1I lemon. lemon. Serve Servewith with Rice Rice d l'indienne I'indienne cream (see RICE). (see RICE). Each Indian Indian cook cook has has his his own own method method of preparing of preparing Each

flour, etc., etc., are are served. served. f1our, In France, France, Sauted Sautied chicken chicken d l'indienne l'indienne is prepared is often often prepared ln by adding adding curry powder to curry powder a chicken to a chicken saut saut6 d blanc, blanc, its itssauce sauce by bound with with a a chicken chicken Velout Velouti sauce (see SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). bound pourBr SAUTE A L'rr,tLreNNE Sautded chicken chicken I'italienne I. i l'italienne I. POULET Sauted SAUT L'ITALIENNE Saut6 the the chicken chicken in in a a mixture mixture of of oil oil and and butter butter d brun. brun. -- Saut juices Dilute the ({ pint, the juices with with I} 1] dL pint,3 dl. (t cup) white white wine; reduce wine; reduce Dilute ~ cup) (+ pint, and add pint, } add 11 l* dL dl. (i (see SAUCE). cltp) /talian Italian sauce sauce (see SAUCE). J cup) and pouLET sAUrE A r'rr.lrrrNt.re Saut6ed chicken chicken i l'italienne I'italienne II. II. POULET Sauted SAUT L'IT ALIENNE Saut6 the chicken in the chicken in oil and butter. oil and butter. When When half-cooked, half-cooked, add add - Saut I tablespoon tablespoon onion onion which which has has been partly cooked been partly cooked in in butter, butter, 1 I chopped chopped shallot, shallot, and and 4 4 chopped chopped mushrooms. mushrooms. 1 juices with I dl. (6 tablespoons, scant cup) Dilute the pan juices the pan l cup) Dilute with 1 dL (6 tablespoons, scant J white wine; wine; boil boil down down and and add (6 tablespoons, add 1 I dL dl. (6 tablespoons, scant scant white cup) thickened thickened brown brown veal veal stock (3 tablespoons, stock and and 1 dl. (3 * cup) tablespoons, I dL 1 scant i cup) Tomato Tomato sauce (see SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). Boil Boil for for a a few few { cup) scant moments and and add add 1 I tablespoon tablespoon lean lean chopped chopped ham ham and and 1 I moments tablespoon parsley, parsley, tarragon tarragon and and chervil. chervil. Coat Coat the the chicken chicken tablespoon with this this sauce. sauce. with pourer SAUT Sautded chicken chicken ir la la japonaise. saur6 A t.l Sauted japonaise. POULET LA JApoNArsE - Saut Saut6 the chicken in brun. When When it JAPONAISE the chicken in butter butter d brun. it is is half-cooked (ll oz.) add 300 g. (Il 300 g. drained half-cooked add oz.) blanched blanched and and drained Japanese Continue cooking chicken is Japanese artichokes. artichokes. Continue cooking until until the the chicken is ready, for Sautied ready, then then finish finish off off as as for Sauted chicken chicken with with artichokes. artichokes. pouI.sr SAUT A Sautded chicken ir la Sauted chicken la livonienne. Iivonienne. POULET slur6 rn LA LTvoNTENNE - Saut6 the chicken in butter d blanc. When it is LIVONIENNE - Saut the chicken in butter blanc. When it is three-quarters three-quarters cooked cooked add add 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz.) oz.) morels morels saut6ed sauted in in butter. for Sautded butter. Dilute Dilute the the pan pan juices juices and and finish finish as as for Sauted chicken chicken with with cream. cream. Garnish Garnish with with the the morels morels and and coat coat with with the the sauce, sauce, to which I 1 tablespoon tablespoon blanched blanched and and chopped chopped chives chives have have to which been added. been added. Scatter Scatter 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) breadbreadcrumbs crumbs fried fried in in butter butter over over the the morels. morels. poulrr SAUT A Sautfu Sauted chicken chicken I la la lyonnaise. lyonnaise. POULET saur6 re LA LyoNNArsE - Saut6 the chicken in butter d brun. When it is LYONNAISE - Saut the chicken in butter brun. When it is half cooked add 2 large half cooked add 2 large chopped chopped onions onions which which have have been been saut6ed sauted in in butter. butter. Finish Finish cooking. cooking. Dilute Dilute the the pan pan juices juices with with 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) vinegar. vinegar. Boil Boil down, down, and and add add (+ 2 2 dl. dL pint, pint, scant scant cup) cup) thickened thickened brown brown veal veal gravy gravy or or Rich Rich brown sauce (see SAUCE). Coat the chicken with the sauce brown sauce (see SA UCE). Coat the chicken with the sauce and and sprinkle sprinkle with with chopped chopped parsley. parsley. pouI.Er SAUT .4, Saut6ed Sauted chicken chicken i la la Marengo. Marengo. POULET s,turf rl LA MARENC,o - Saut6 the chicken in oil d brun. Dilute the pan MARENGO - Saut the chicken in oil brun. Dilute the pan juices with I dl. (6 tablespoons, scant cup) white wine, boil juices with 1 dL (6 tablespoons, scant + 1 cup) white wine, boil down down and and add add I~ dl. dL (3 (3 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant * i "up) cup) thickened thickened brown brown veal veal gravy, gravy, li l~ dl. dL (+ (i pint, pint, J ~ atp) cup) Tomato Tomato sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SA UCE) and and a a crushed crushed clove cloveof ofgarlic. garlic. Boil Boil for for a a few few minutes minutes and and strain. strain. Garnish Garnish the the chicken chicken with with 8 8fried fried mushrooms;4 mushrooms; 4 small small fried fried (or just the yolks); eggs eggs (or just the yolks); 4 4 crayfish crayfish trussed trussed and and cooked cooked in in court-bouillon;4 court-bouillon; 4heart-shaped heart-shaped crottons crotons fried fried in in butter; butter; and and g8 slices of truffies truffies saut6ed sauted in in butter. butter. Coat Coat with with the the sauce sauce and and slices of sprinkle sprinkle with with chopped chopped parsley. parsley. Saut6ed Sauted chicken chicken au au matelote matelote -- See See Sautied Sauted chicken chicken d la la bourguignonne. bourguignonne.

curries of mutton, lamb, lamb, chicken, of mutton, chicken, fish, fish, etc. The basic etc. The basic curries principle, the curry seasoning, the curry seasoning, does does not not vary, vary, but the recipes recipes but the principle, differ from from each each other other in in requiring requiring different different ingredients. ingredients. As As differ well as as the the traditional traditional lodian-style Indian-style rice yellow (saffron) (saffron) rice -- yellow weil rice -- boiled boiled cabbage cabbage mixed mixed with with mashed mashed potatoes potatoes and and rice sprinkled with with curry, curry, thin pancakes made thin pancakes made of of fine fine wheaten wheaten sprinkled

pouLErSAUT Saut6ed chicken chicken i la la meunire. meuniire. POULET slurE I LA rl Sauted Proceed as asfor for Sauted Sautied chicken chicken in butter, adding inbUller, adding - Proceed juice and parsley, lemon chopped parsley, lemon juice and 33 or or 44 tablespoons tablespoons veal veal chopped grary or (seeSA or Rich Rich brown brown sauce. sauce. (see SAUCE). gravy UCE). pouI,Er SAUT Sauteed chic chicken Mireille. POULET sAUTf MIREILLE MTRETLLE - - Saut Saut6 Sauted ken Mireille. juices with thechicken chicken in in butter butter d brun. brun. Dilute Dilute the pan juices the pan with 1I dL the dl. (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant 1 cup) white white wine; wine; boil boil down down and andstir (6 stir * cup) (| pint, in 11 l] dl. pint, -13cup) dl.(i cup) thickened thickened brown gravy and veal gravy brown veal and 1 in dl. I dl. (3 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant (see SAUCE). scant i* cup) cup) Tomato Tomato sauce sauce (see SAUCE). (3 Boil for for aa few few moments. moments. Boil Garnish the (gourilos) in the chicken chicken with with 8 8 endive endive hearts hearts (gourilos) in Garnish cream and and 8 8 small small tomatoes, peeled, drained tomatoes, peeled, drained and and cooked in cooked in cream butter. Coat Coat the the chicken chicken with with the the sauce. sauce. butter. pouLET SAUT Saut6ed chicken chicken Monselet. Monselet. POULET SAUTE MONSELET MoNSELET -- Saut Sauted Saut6 the chicken chicken in in butter butterd Drzn. When When it it is is three-quarters three-quarters cooked, cooked, the brun. add 2 2 artichoke artichoke bottoms, bottoms, blanched blanched and and cut cut in in slices, and, slices, and, add when completely completely cooked, cooked, 2 2 medium-sized medium-sized sliced sliced truffies. truffies. when Take out out the chicken and the chicken and its its accompaniments, accompaniments, dilute dilute the pan the pan Take juices with (6 tablespoons, with 1 I dL dl. (6 tablespoons, scant scant J cup) white white wine wine and and juices + cup) ({ pint, boil down. down. Add Add 11 l+ dl. pint,3 dl. (i cup) thickened thickened brown brown veal veal boil -1 cup) gravy, and and boil boil for for a a few few moments. moments. Garnish Garnish the the chicken chicken with with gravy, the artichokes artichokes and and truffies truffies and and coat with the coat with the sauce. sauce. the pouLET Saut6ed chicken chicken with with morels morels and and other other mushrooms. POULET Sauted slurf AUX AUx MORILLES MoRrLLrs -- Proceed Proceed as as for for Sauted Saut1ed chicken SAUT chicken with with (see below), mushrooms (see below), replacing replacing the g. latter with the latter with 300 300 g. mushrooms (11 oz.) (or an oz.) morels morels (or an equivalent equivalent quantity of other other mush(II mushrooms). rooms).
ltsuNriREMEUNIRE

Saut6ed Sauted chicken chicken with with mushrooms mushrooms

Saut6ed Sauted chicken chicken with with mushrooms. mushrooms. pouI-nr POULET s.tur6 SAUT

ct

cHAMprcNoNs CHAMPIGNONS - Saut6 Saut the the chicken chicken in in butter butter d brun. brun. When When three-quarters three-quarters cooked cooked add add 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz) oz.) sliced sliced mushrooms. mushrooms. Dilute Dilute the the pan pan juices juices with with ] 1dl. dl. (3 (3 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant + t cup) cup) Madeira, Madeira, boil boil down down and and add add l+ 11 dl. dl. (+ (i pint, pint, J -t cup) cup) thickened thickened brown brown veal veal gravy. gravy. Boil Boil for for a a few few moments. moments. Garnish Garnish the the chicken chicken with with the the mushrooms mushrooms and and coat coat with with the the sauce. sauce. Saut6ed Sauted chicken chicken nigoise. nioise. pouLET POULET snurf SAUT NrgorsE NIOISE - Saut6 Saut the the chicken chicken in in oil oil d brun. brun. Dilute Dilute the the pan pan juices juices with with I1 dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant * 1 cup) cup) white white wine, wine, add add a a crushed crushed garlic garlic clove, down and and add add l+ 11 dl. dl. (+ (i pint, pint, $ -1 cup) cup) Tomato Tomato sauce sauce clove, boil boil down
(see (see SAUCE.) SAUCE.)

lux AUX

Garnish Garnish the the chicken chicken with with 8 8 artichoke artichoke quarters quarters cooked cooked in in butter, butter, 4 4 braised braised baby baby marrows marrows (zucchini), (zucchini), l2S 125 g. g. (4 (4 oz.) oz.) small small new new potatoes potatoes cooked cooked in in butter, butter, and and 12 12 stoned stoned black black olives. olives. Coat Coat with with the the sauce sauce and and sprinkle sprinkle with with chopped chopped tarragon. tarragon. Sautffi Sautedchicken chickenwith withoysters oystersI. I.pouLETsAUrE POULET SAUTaux AUXHuirnnsHUTRESSaut6 Saut the the chicken chicken in in butter butter d blanc. blanc. Dilute Dilute the the pan pan juices juices with with 1 1 dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant + 1cup) cup) white white wint wine and and the the
234 234

CHICKEN CHICKEN
liquor liquor from from 12 12 poached poached oysters. oysters. Boil Boil down down and and add add I1dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant * t cup) cup) chicken chicken Velouti Velout sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Boil Boil for for a a few few moments. moments. Add Add 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz., OZ., { } cup) cup)
cooked, cooked, 2 2chopped chopped medium-sized medium-sized truffies. truffles. Remove Remove the the chicken chicken and and garnishes garnishes and and dilute dilute the the pan pan juices (3 scant with] dl. tablespoons, juices witht dl. (3 tahles-poons, seantf, cup) eup)sherry. sherry.Boil Boildown down gravy. veal (+ and and add add l+ li dl. dl. (a pint, pint, J ! cup) cup) thickened thiekened brown brown veal gravy. Pour Pour the the sauce sauce over over the the chicken. chicken. Saut6ed Sautedchicken chickel'lila laromaine. romalle.PoULET POULETsAUTE SAUTA LA LARoMAINE ROMAll'<'Ejuices Saut6 Saut the the chicken chic ken in in oil, oil, browning hrowning it. il. Dilute Dilute the the pan pan juices with with I! dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tahlespoons, scant seant ]1: cup) cup) Asti Asti wine. wine. Boil Boil down down and and pour pour in in I1dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seant * t cup) cup) tomato tomato sauce sauce and i cup) and ]t dl. dl. (3 (3 tablespoons, tahlespoons, scant seant} eup) thickened thickencd brown hrown veal veal gravy. gravy. leaf simmered of spinach, layer Put Put the the chicken chicken on on a a layer of leaf spinach, simmered in in butter buller and and mixed mixed with with 2 2 diced diced anchovy anchovy fillets. fil lets. Coat Coat with with the the sauce. sauce. Saut6ed Sauted chicken chickel'l Stanley. Stanley. PouLEr POULET seur6 SAUT sTANLEY STANLEY - Saut6 Saut the the chicken chicken in in butter butter d blanc. blanc. When When it it is is half-cooked half-cooked add add 2 2 garnishwith finely findy chopped chopped onions. on ions. Remove Remove the the chicken chicken and and garnish with mushrooms mushrooms cooked cooked in in butter. hutter. pint, seant Add Add to to the the onions on ions and and cooking cooking juices Juices 2 2 dl. dl. (+ (~ pint, scant cup) cup) cream. cream. Cook Cook for for l0 10 minutes minutes and and sieve. sieve. Reduce Reduce the the onion onion pur6e pure by by a a quarter, quarter, season season with with a a pinch pinch of of curry curry powder powder and and cayenne, cayenne, and and add add 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz., OZ., I cup) cup) butter. butter. Coat Coat the the chicken chickcn with with sauce; sauce; put put 8 8 slices slices of of truffie trume on on top. top. A L'EsrnAGoN slurn PoULET with tarragon chicken Saut6ed Sauted cbkkeu with larragon. POULET SAUT L'ESTRAGON but herbes.I - Prepared Prepared as as for for Sautied Sauted chicken chicken aux aux fines fines herbes 1 but the the shallot, shallot, parsley parsley and and chervil chervil are are replaced replaced by by an an equivalent equivalent quantity quantity of of chopped choppe<l tarragon. tarragon. Decorate Decorate the the chicken chicken with with blanched blanched tarragon tarragon leaves. leaves. AUx TRUFFES s,lurE PouLEr Saut6ed Sauted chicken chicken with with truffies. ImIDes. POULET SAUT AUX TRUFFES placn 12 Saut6 the Saut the chicken cbicken in in butter butter it brun. hrun. When When cooked, cooked, place 12 Take slices of slices of raw raw truffie truffle on on it. it. Cover Coyer and and cook cook for for 5 5 minutes. minutes. Take juices and finish and truffies. out out the the chicken chicken and truffles. Dilute Dilute the the pan pan jl1..ices and finish as for Sautded Sauted chicken chicken with with mushrooms. mushrooms. as for add If the Fresh or or preserved Fresh preserved truffies trumes may may be be used' used. If the latter, latter, add sauce. down juices their their boiled boiled down juices to to the the sauce. s.lur6 A re vtsNA la chicken il Saut6ed chicken Sauled la viennoise. vielllloise. PouLE'r POULI;T SAUT LA VIENwithbut withchickm Archduke, for Sauled Sautded chicken as for NoISE Proceed as NOlSE Archduke, but - Proceed cucumbers. buttered cucumbers. cooked, buttered with cooked, Garnish with onion. Garnish out the the onion. out lux slurE AUX PouLET SAUTf: wines. POULET various wlles. with various chicken with Saut6ed chicken Saute<! Dilute the the d brun. brun. Dilute in butter butter chicken ID the chicken Saut6 the vll.Is DIVERS DIvERs - Saut VINS gravy, and and veal gravy, juices with brown veal add thickened thickened brown pan juices wine, add with wine, pan way. in the ordinary way. the ordinary finish in finish name of of the name by the designated by preparations are are designated Note. These These preparations Nole. Frontignan, Pouilly, Frontignan, Graves, Pouilly, Chablis, Graves, wine used: used: Chablis, the wine the etc' Champagne, etc. Port, Sherry, Sherry, Champagne, Madeira, Port, Sauternes, Madeira, Sauternes, Ia bourguigcalled li it la always called is always red wine wine is with red chicken !Vith Sautied chicken Sauted bourguignonne. nonne. poursr SAUT AU VIN vIN sAUTE AU wine. POULET white wine. with white chicken wilh Saut6ed chicken Sauted juices the juices Dilute the h brun. brun. Dilute in butter butter chicken in the chicken BLANc -- Saut Saut6 the BLANC down, wine, boil boil down, white wine, cup) white (6 tablespoons, scantI tablespoons, seant I dl. with 1 dl. (6 with 1 cup) gravy. veal gravy. brown veaJ pint, t cup) thickened thickened brown pour in l] dl. dl. (a in li and pour 3 cup) $ pint, and (2 oz., g' (2 cup) oz., { cup) with 50 50 g. and finish finish with moments and few moments Boil for for aa few Boil sauce. with the the sauce. chicken with the chicken Coat the butter. Coat butter. l LA u ZINGARAzrxcml slurf PouLET SAUT I la la zingara. zingara. POULET chicken Saut6ed chicken Sauted brun' it in rn oil oi d brun. paprik4 and and saut saut6 it with paprika., chicken with the chicken Season the Season garnish zingara garnish cup) zingara 4 tablespoons tablespoons (t add 4 it is iscooked, cooked, add When il G cup) When (q.v.). (q.v.). cooking garnish. Dilute the cookillg Dilute the its garnish. and its chicken and Take out the chicken out the Take boil Madeira, boil cup) Madeira, juices with (3 tablespoons, scant tablespoons, seant with 1 dl. (3 f cup) I dl. juices (see sauce (see brown sauce pint, t3 cup) Rich brown cup) Rich l] dl. dl. (t add li and add down and Q pint, down with tomalo. tomato. flavoured wth SAUCE), flavourcd SAUCE), garnish arrallged 4 on 4 arranged on zingara garnis!! with zingara chicken with Garnish the the chicken Gamish in butter butter ham tossed tossed in of ham slice of with aathin thin slice of toast toast with slices of small slices smaU with and sprinkle sprinkle with sauce alld with the the sauce Coat with one.Coat eachone. added to to each added in also be beserved served in may also ham may of ham parsley. The Theslices slices of chopped parsley. chopped pastry tartlet shells. tartletshells. thin pastry trun HORS-D'(EUVRE, See HORS-D'UVRE, shells -- See in scallop scallop sheUs Chicken in Chicken poultry. of poultry. shellsof Scallop shell. Scallop

butter and and a a squeeze squeeze of oflemon lemon juice. juice. Strain. Strain. butter Garnish Garnish with with the the drained drained oysters oysters and and coat coat with witb the Ihe sauce. sauce. Sauted chicken chicken with with oysters ovsters II. II. pourer POULET saur6 SAUT aux AUX Saut6ed nuirnss HUTRES - Saut6 Saut the the chicken chick~n in in butter butter h blanc blanc and and when when half-cooked half-cooked add add I1tablespoon tablespoon blanched hlanched chopped chopped onion. onion. Take Take out oui the the chicken; chic ken ; add add to to the the pan pan juices juices I1tablespoon tahlespoon flour, flour, the Ihe liquor Iiquor from from 12 12 poached poached oysters oysters and and I1dl. dl. (6 (6 tabletablespoons, spoons, scant seant It cup) cup) mushroom mushroom or or white white stock. stock. Cook Cook for for l0 10 minutes. minutes. Add Add 2 2 tablespoons tahlespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) cream cream and and 25 25 g. g. (l (l o2.,2 oz., 2 tablespoons) tablespoons) butter. butter. Strain Strain and and finish finish as as above. above. Saut6ed Sauted chicken chicken panetiCre. panetire. PouLE'r POULET slur6 SA UT plNruinr PANETIimE Prepare as as for for sautied sauted chicken chicken with with oeam. cream. Place Place on on a a round round Prepare of bread, trimmed, ofbread, trimmed, drid dried in in the the oven oyen and and spread spread with with pur6e pure of of foie gras. gras. foie Garnish Garnish with with morels morels (or (or other other mushrooms) mushrooms) in in cream. cream. Coat Coat with with the the sauce. sauce. SautH Sauted chicken chicken with with paprika. paprika. PouLEr POULET slurf SAUT AU AU PAPRIKA PAPRIKA Season Season the the chicken chicken with with paprika. paprika. Saut6 Saut in in butter butter d blanc blanc and finish finish as as for for Sautied Sauted chicken chicken with wilh cremn. cream. Saut6ed Sauted chicken chickell i la la parisienne. parisienne. PoULET POULET slurf SAUT A u LA fot Sautied PARISIENNE PARISlENNEProceed as for Sauted chickm chicken with white white wine >vine - Proceed (see (see below). below). Put the the chicken on a a layer of of Duchess potato patata mixture mixture (see (sec POTATOES) POT A TOES) brushed brushed with egg and browned in in oyen. Garnish with buttered asparagus asparagus tips. tips. Coat with with the oven. sauce. the sauce. slurn PARMENTIER Saut6ed chicken Sauted chickcn Parmentier. PouLEr POULET SAUT PARMENTIER Saut6 the chicken in butter. When Saul When two-thirds cooked, add dice and 4 blanched potatoes, cut 4 eut in in large dice and half-cooked half-cooked in in butter. Finish as for Sauted Sautied chicken with witn white wine (see (see below). sprinkle Garnish wittr with the potatoes, coat with the the sauce and sprinkle with chopped parsley. chopped parsley. pfnlu. PRIslur6 A P6rigord. pourE'r I la la Prigord. chicken il Saut6ed chicken Sauted POULET SAUT LA The tqffies. truffies with chicken coRD Se Sautied GORD Sec Sauted cl!icken witl! tru/fies. Tbe truffles may be small olives. cut to look like small eut pourpr SAUT PErIT-DUc - Saut Saut6 petit-duc. POULET s.lurf PETIT-DUC-chicken petit-duc. Sauted SautEed chickcn j dl. juices with pan juices with t dl. the pan in butter d brun. brun. Dilute the the chicken chicken in the and add down and (3 tablespoons, boil down Madeira, boil cup) Madeira, scant * cup) (3 tablespoons, seant (see SAUCE). Boil for for SAUCE). Boil (+ pint, ~ sauce (sec Ricft brown sauce l+ dl. cup) Rich dl. (! li I cup) a a few few moments. moments. saut6ed slices sauted morels and and trume truffie slices with morels chicken with Garnish the the chicken Garnish with the the sauce. sauce. in in butter. Coat Coat with A LA rn pi6montaise. POULET saure PouLE'r SAUT la pimontaise. chicken i la Sautcd Sautded chicken pduovrxsn -- Proceed white !Vine wine with white chicken as for for Sauted Sautied ch Proceed as PIMONTAISE ick en wilh mixed wi with of risotto mixed (see below). in a a border border of chicken in Put the the chicken (sec th below). Put truffie white truffle garnish with of white with slices slices of and garnish white trumes, truffies, and diced diced white it. over il. Pour the the sauce sauce over in butter. lightly beated heated in butter. Pour lightly pourrr SAUT A LA u slun6 portugaise. POULET la portugaise. i la chicken Sauted Saut6ed chicken poRruGAIsE - Saut in oil. When two-thirds two-thirds oil. When chicken Saut6 the the chic PORTUGAISE ken in out the the Take out onion. Take chopped onion. I tablespoon cooked, add add 1 tablespoon chopped cooked, and a a clove clove pipped tomatoes peeled and and pipped tomatoes and put 4 4 peeled and put chicken, chic ken, and (6 tablespoons, pan. Season, I dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, add 1 garlic in Season, add in the the pan. of crushed crushed garlic of half. Add Add 3 3 tabletabledown by by half. wine and and boil boil down white wine cup) white seant scant tI cup) gravy. Coat the Coat the (scant tt cup) veal gravy. brown veal cup) thickened thickened broWll spoons spoons (seant parsley. chopped parsley. with chopped and sprinkle sprinkle with with the sauce and chicken with the sauce chicken poulsr SAUT A LA rl slur6 provengale. POULET la provenale. chicken ili la SlIUted Sautied chickel'l pRovENqALE - Procecd portuh la la portuchicken for Sauted Sautied chicken as for Proceed as PROVENALE gaise. gaise. and 88 olives and blanched olives with 20 20stoned, stoned, blanched chicken with Garnish the the chicken Garnish sauce' with the the sauce. Coat with in oil. oil. Coat mushrooms sauted saut6ed in small small mushrooms chopped withchopped andsprinkle sprinkle with filletsand anchovy flllets Decorate with with 88anchovy Decorate parsley. parsley. Saut6 the the RIvoLI - - Saut PouLErSAUT slurf RIVOLI Rivoli. POULET chickenRivoli. Sauted Sautded chickell add44 cookedadd When thrce-quarters three-quarters cooked inbutter dbmn. brun. When chickenin butter chicken when completely completely and when in butter, potatoessauted butter, and saut6ed in sliced sliced potatoes

235 235

CHICKEN CHICKEN
Chlcken souffl. souffid.SOUFFL sourrri DE DE VOLAILLE voLATLLE-- Using UsW raw rawchicken, chicken. Ch.icken Add 5 (2+ lb.) 5 stiffly stifry whisked whisked egg egg whites whites to I kg, kg. (2* to 1 lb.) Chicken Chicken Add (see FORCEMEAT), mousseliwforcemeat (see FORCEMEAT). Put Put in inaa buttered buttered mousselineforcemeat gently in souffi6 dish dish and and cook cook gently in the the oven for 35 35 to 40 minutes, oven for to 40 minutes. souffl Using cooked cooked chicken. g. (generous (generous 1 chicken. Pound Pound 500 500 g. I lb,) lb.) Using cooked chicken chicken meat meat adding (scant l1} cup) adding 6 6 tablespoons tablespoons (seant cup) cooked (see SAUCE). cold thick co BCchamel sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Season Season and and rub rub thick Id Bchamel pur6e, without through a a sieve. sieve. Heat Heat this this pure, without allowing allowing itto it to boil. boil. through (2 oz" g. (2 Add 50 50 g. yolks and oz.,l cup) cup) butter, butter, 5 5 egg egg yolks and 6 6 stiffly stifry Add whisked egg egg whites, whites. Put in a Put in a buttered buttered souffl souffi6 dish dish and and cook cook whisked gently in in the the oven, oven. gently of ch.icken chicken soup. Cream of soup. CRME cniw DE DE VOLAILLE voLArLrJ -- Soup Soup made made Crerun with chicken chicken cooked cooked in in a a veal pounded to veal or or chicken chicken stock, stock, pounded to with pur6e and a pure and finished finished with (See with velout veloutd sauce sauce and and, cream. cream. (See a souPs AND AND BROTHS,) BROTHS.) SOUPS poT,JLARDE souvmov- Stuffthe chicken Cticken Souvorov. Souyaro% POULARDE Ch.icken SOUVAROV - Stuff t he chicken gras and with chopped chopped foie and truffles, truffies, seasoned seasoned with with salt salt and and foie gras with spices and and a a few few drops drops of liqueur brandy. of liqueur brandy. spices Put the the chicken chicken in in a pan with a covered covered pan with some some butter butter and and Put cook until until three-quarters three-quarters done, done. Transfer Transfer the chicken to the chicken to a a cook casserole and and add add 8 8 medium-sized medium-sized truffles trufres which which have have been been casserole seasoned and and simmered in butter simmered in butter for for 5 5 minutes, minutes. seasoned juices diluted Moisten the the chicken chicken with with the the cooking cooking juices with diluted with Moisten Madeira, boiled boiled down and mixed mixed with (see down and with Rich Rich brown sauce (see brown sauce Madeira, juices. Co SAUCE) made made with with the the truffle trufre juices, Cover, and seal seal the lid the lid SAUCE) ver, and paste. with f1our-and-water flour-and-water pas Finish cooking cooking in in the the oyen oven for for with te. Finish 20 to 25 minutes, minutes. to 25 20 poussrN Spring chicken. chicken POUSSIN This term can he term can be used used 10 to - This Spring describe a a newly newly hatched hatched chicken, chicken, but but the the flesh flesh of of such such a a descrihe young bird is so so soft soft and and insipid insipid that it is is scarcely that it scarcely edible, edible. ln In young bird is culinary terminology terminology the the word word poussin usually means means a a cuJinary poussin usually young chicken which is chicken which is sufficiently sufficiently well formed for its f1esh flesh young weil formed for ilS to all the and flavour. to have have ail the necessary necessary firmness firmness and flavour. The nameis alsogiven to a avery small chicken, chicken, ofwhich of which the The name is also given to very small the best chicken. These These have delicate flesh and best type type is is Hamburg Hamburg chicken, have delicate f1esh and can be any of small roasting can he prepared prepared in in any of the the ways ways given given for for small roasting chickens. chickens, poussrN (cold). Spriry chicken FROID - Prepared Prepared in in any any of of Spring cblcken (cold). POUSSIN FRorD the dishes. The The chicken chicken the ways ways given given for for cold co Id chicken chicken or or pigeon pigeon dishes. is withfoie gras and diced is stuffed stuffed with with forcemeat forcemeat or or withfoie gras and diced truffies. truffles, For For some some dishes dishes the the chickens chickens are are boned. boned, poussrN Spnry chicken EN coMporE COMPOTE - Stuffed Stuffed Spring cbicken en en compote. compote. POUSSIN EN with fine forcemeat forcemeat (made (made with with the the chicken chicken liver). liver), with a a fine Prepared asfor Compote of ofpigeon pigeon (see (see PIGEON). PIGEON), Prepared as for Compote poussrN Sprfug Spring chicken chlcken (fried). (fried). POUSSIN FRrr FRIT - Cut Cut the the chicken chicken into into pieces of equal size and marinate pieces of equal size and marinate in in oil, oil, lemon lemon juice juice and and salt salt and in flour, flour, coat coat with with egg egg and and breadbreadand pepper. pepper. Roll Roll the the pieces pieces in crumbs crumbs and and fry fry in in deep deep fat. fat. Garnish Gamish with with fried fried parsley parsley and and lemon Jemon quarters. q uarters. poussrN cnln6 A u Spring grilled chicken i la diable. Spring chlcken grilled la diable. POUSSIN GRILL LA DIABLE - Prepared asfor Grilled chickm d la diable. DIABLE - Prepared as for Grilled chicken la diable, Spring Spring chickcn ch.icken in in marinade marinade (fried). (fried). poussrN POUSSIN EN EN MARTNADE MARINADE (rntr) (FRIT) - Cut Cut the the chicken chicken in in quarters quarters and and take take out out the the small small juice, bones. Marinate in oil, lemon salt, pepper, pepper, and and bones. Marinate in oil, lemon juice, salt, chopped chopped herbs. herbs, Dip Dip the the pieces pieces in in a a light light batter batter and and fry fry in in deep deep fat. fat. Drain, TomalO Drain, and and garnish gamish with with fried fried parsley. parsley, Serve Serve with with Tomato sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). This This dish dish is is often often incorrectly incorrectly served served under under the the name name of of fritot frllOt of of chicken; chicken; butfritot but frllOt denotes denotes previously previously cooked cooked subsu bstances. stances. pETrrs pols - preSpring Spring chicken chicken with with peas. peas. poussrN POUSSIN Ar.x AUX PETITS POIS Prepared pared as as for for Pigeon Pigeon with with peas peas (see (see PIGEON). PIGEON). poussrN pdrraoxr,lrsB Sprfug Spring chicken chicken iil la la pidmontaise. pimontaise. POUSSIN A r.l LA PIMONT AISE --- Fill Fill the the chicken chicken with with fine fine forcemeat, forcemeat, the the chopped chopped liver liver and and a a little little onion onion lightly lightly cooked cooked in in butter. butter, Truss Truss as as for for boiling. boiling, Cook in butter, Cook in butter, browning browning it it all ail over. over. Drain, Drain, and and remove rem ove th1 the trussing trussing strings. strings. Surround Surround the the chicken chicken with with a a risotto. risotto, Dilute Dilute
the juices with with white white wine, wine, thickened gravy and veal gravy thickened brown brown veal and aa thejuices little tomato pur6e. Boil pour over tomato pure. Boil down down together and pour together and over the the little chicken. chicken, poussrN por,oN,l,rsr poloneise. POUSSIN Spring chicken chicken I la la polonaise. A LA u POLONAISE Sprlng gratinforcemeat (see (see FORCEMEAT) Stuffa chicken with with ri gratinforcemeal FORCEMEAT) Stuff a chicken mixed with with soaked soaked bread, bread, butter butter and parsley. and chopped chopped parsley. mixed Cook in in a a casserole, Finish as casserole. Finish polonaise. as for for Chicken Chicken d la la polonaise, Cook poussrN RTI Roasted spring sprlng ch.icken. chickeh. POUSSIN garni, ROTr -- Put Puta bouquet garni, Roasted a bouquel I tablespoon tablespoon butter butter and and the the chopped chopped liver, liver, weil seasoned with with well seasoned 1 pepper and salt and grated nutmeg, and pepper and grated nutmeg, inside inside the Truss, the chicken, chicken. Truss, salt bard with put on with bacon bacon fat fat and and put good on the the spil. spit. Cook Cook on a good on a bard heat, basting basting frequently. frequently. heat, Arrange on long dish dish and and garnish garnish with on a a long with cress, cress. Hand Hand the Arrange the juices separately, separately. juices Spring ch.icken chicken li (Prosper Salles' la sicilienne I la sicilienne (Prosper Salles' recipe). recipe). Spring poussrN A LA r,e SICILIENNE (q.v.) in srcu,rsNNE -- Cook Cook some lasagne (q,v,) some lasagne in salt salt POUSSIN water. Drain Drain and and reheat reheat for for a a few few moments moments in in hot hot butter. water. pur6e of with a a pure nuts. Season of pistachio nuIS. Season weil well and and allow allow to Bind with to cool. Stuff Stuffthe chicken with this this mixture and and trus5 truss as as for for spit spit cool. the chicken roasting. Cook good heat, Cook at at a a good heat, basting frequently. When basting frequently, roasting, When thiee-quarters cooked sprinkle sprinkle with grated breadwith freshly freshly grated breadthree-q uarters cooked crumbs and and let let it it col colour. the juices separately, separately. crurnbs OU!', Hand thejuices poussrN Spring chlcken chicken li I la la tartare. tartare. POUSSIN rmrlnr -- Split A LA r,a TARTARE Split Spring the chicken chicken down the the back, back, season, season, brush over over with melted melted the and sprinkle with breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs. Grill on a a gentle heat. butter and (see SAUCE), Serve with with Tartare sauce (see SAUCE). Serve poussrN Spring ch.icken chicken li la viennoise. POUSSIN I la A LA L,q, VIENNOISE vleNxorsE -Spring Divide the quarters. Season, the chicken chicken into into quarters, Season, sprinkle sprinkle with Divide flour, and coat with egg and breadcrumbs. Brown them well fioul', (or lard), or fry in deep fat. both sides sides in clarified butter (or on both with fried parsley quarters. Garnish with parsley and lemon quarters, Chicken Stanley. POULARDE IoULARDE STANLEY srANLEy Chicken - Poach the chicken in 4large chopped onions have been in a white stock to which 4 large chopped added. Put the chicken on a dish and surround with 20 20large added. large mushrooms and 8 tartlets filled with chopped chopped truflles, truffies. Finish u for SautCed chickm Stanley, Stanley. Sautd chicken Finish as Sttrd chicken Sl:Uffed ch.icken i il I'ariegeoise. l'arigeoise. pouLET POULET r,mcl FARCI A L'ARrfL'ARlcEoIsE Stuff the chicken with forcemeat made as follows: GEOISE - Stuff oz.) crustless squeeze and put in soak 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 OL) crustless bread in milk, squeeze a basin. 100 g. (4 (4 oz.) oz,) chopped raw ham, the chopped basin, Add Add 100 chicken liver gpzzard,2 liver and and gizzard, 2 finely chopped cloves of of garlic garlic and 2 and 2 tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) chopped onion cooked lightly lightly in in fat. Bind Bind with an egg egg and the the blood blood of of the chicken. chicken, Season Season with with salt, pepper pepper and grated nutmeg. nutmeg, Add I 1 tablespoon spoon chopped parsley. parsley, Truss the Cook in a a pot-au-fat pot-au-feu with with the chicken as as for for boiling. boiling, Cook a piece piece of of beef beef and and a piece piece of of chined salt salt pork pork (pork back). back), Take Take the the trussing trussing strings offthe off the cooked chicken chicken and and garnish garrush with of stuffed stuffed cabbage, cabbage, potatoes potatoes sliced sliced and cooked cooked in in with balls balls of the pot-au-feu broth, broth, and and the the boned boned and and sliced sliced pork. pork, the pot-au-fan Serve with TomalO sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) seasoned seasoned with with with Tomato garlic. garlic, The The pot-au-fat pOl-au:feu broth broth is is served served as as a a soup, soup, with with rice rice or or vermicelli. vermicelli, Strffed il la la mode mode de de Sorges Sorges @6rigord (prigord cookery). cookery). Sluffed chicken chickell i pouLET POULET rlncl FARCI A LA LA MoDE MODE DE DE soRGEs SORGF~~ - Stuff Stuff the the chicken chic ken with with forcemeat ofchopped chopped chicken chicken liver, liver, stale stale breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, forcemeat made made of chopped chopped bacon, bacon, chopped chopped parsley, parsley, chopped chopped spring spring onions, onions, chopped chopped garlic, garlic, all ail well weil seasoned seasoned with with chopped shallot shallot and and chopped salt, pepper and and grated grated nutmeg, nutmeg, and and bound bound with with the the blood blood of of salt, pepper the the chicken chicken and and eggyolks. eggyolks, Brown Brown the the chicken chicken all ail over over in in goose goose fat. fat. Put Put itinamarmite it in a marmite and and cover cover with with boiling boiling water. water. Season Season with with salt salt and and pepper. pepper. Bring Bring to to the the boil boil and and skim. skim, Add Add 3 3 carrots, carrots, 2 2 turnips, tumips, the the white 3leeks, I1celery of3leeks, celery heart, heart, I\ large large onion anion stuck stuck with with white parts parts of I1clove, clove, and and beet beet stalks stalks tied tied in in a a bunch. bunch, Cook Cook very very slowly slowly for for I1hour. hour. Drain Drain the the chicken, chicken, remove rernove the the trussing trussing strings, strings, and and garnish gamish with with the the sliced sliced carrots carrots and and turnips. tumips.

236 236

CHICKEN CHICKEN
Serve with with Sorges Sorges sauce, sauce, which which is is a a highly highly seasoned seasoned Serve [vinaigrette sauce sauce with with chopped chopped parsley, parsley, spring spring onions onions and and vinaigrette ,shallotsadded, added,bound boundwith with22egg eggyolks yolkscooked cooked for for 33minutes minutes shallots these eggs, inboiling boil ingwater. wa ter.Finish Finishwith withthe thewhites whi tesof ofthese eggs,recooked recooked in thechicken chickenbroth broth and and cut cutin indice. dice. in l in the Suprmes of ofchicken cbicken. suPRtMEs SUP~MES DE DE VoLAILLE VOLAILLE - The The breast breast Supr0mcs and wings wings of of poultry, poultry, removed removed when when raw. raw. Also Aiso known known as as and ctelettes orfilets, or filets, and and served served as as small small entCes. entres. c\telettei When suprAmes suprmes of ofpoulardes poulardes or or fat fat hens hens are are used, used, they they are are When divided into into2 2or or33slices, slices, flattened, flattened, trimmed trimmed into into oval oval shapes, shapes, divided 1 and cooked cooked like Iike chicken chicken c6telettes. ctelettes . and Suprmes of of chicken chicken ambassadrice. ambassadrice. supntuns SUPR~MES DE DE voLAILLE VOLAILLE SuprGmes AMBASSADRICE - Saut6 Saut in in butter. butter. Garnish Garnish with with chicken chicken livers livers AMBAssADRIcB sauted in in butter, butter, cocks' cocks' combs combs and and kidneys, kidneys, and and truffies truffles cutcut saut6ed into the the shape shape of of olives. olives. Dilute Oilute the the pan pan juices juices with with Madeira Madeira' into and thickened thickened brown brown veal veal gravy. gravy. Pour Pour over over the the dish. dish. and Place on on top top of of the* these suprdmes suprmes the the filets filets mignons mignons' (pieces (pieces Place which lie lie against against the the breast breast bone), bone), studded with trufles. truffles. which Suprmes of of chicken chicken Cam6rani. Camrani. supn8uns SUP~MES DE DE VoLAILLE VOLAILLE Supr6mes CAMRANI - Coat Coat the suprAmes suprmes with with a mixture of egg and crufnlm breadcrumbs and and chopped truffies. truffles. Saut6 Saut in butter. butter. breadcrumbs juices, Place on on a a bed bed of ofnoodles. Makea saucewith panjuices, with the pan a sauce noodles. Make Place 1 gravy, to ! mixed mixed with with Madeira Madeira and and thickened brown veal veal gravy, which has has been been added added 1 tablespoon ta blespoon iulienne julienne (q.v.) (q. v.) of celery which truffles, cooked in butter butter until tender. and truffies, DE VOLAILLE VoLAILLE Suprmes of of chicken chicken Car0me. Carme. supnf;runs SUPRMES DE Supr0mes CA~ME - Slit open fil 1 with a a thick mushand fill suprAmes and opur the suprmes cAnEus and pure, to which a fine fine julienne julienne (q'v.) (q.v.) of cocks' combs and ofcocks' room pur6e, truffles has has been been added. Saut Saut6 in butter. truffies Place on in butter. fried in butter' Garnish with bread fried cro0tons of bread on crotons Place Chicken iltto olive olive cut into truffies cut quenelles (see QUENELLES), Chicken quenelles QUENELLES), truffles veal shapes, thickened brown veal use thickened sauce use shapes, and mushrooms. For sauce mignons, gravy the filets Put the and butter. butter. Put gravy with with tomato tomato and filets mignons, studded supr0mes. of the suprmes. pickled tongue, on top top of tongue, on with pickled studded with Suprmes voLAILLE DE VOLAILLE swnElrars DE I la la florentine. florentine. SUP~MES chicken of chicken Supr6mes of until chicken stock stock until or chicken in veal veal or Poach in A LA FLoRENTINE - Poach r,c, .FLORENTINE three-quarterscooked. SAUCE) Mornay sauce(see SAUCE) with Mornaysauce(see Coat with three-quarters cooked. Coat to with Sprinkle with added. Sprinkle has been been added. essence has chicken essence which chicken to which grated quickly. brown quickly. and brown grated Parmesan Parmesan and Suprmes voLAILLE DE VOLAILLE supnBMes DE Gabrielle. SUPR~MES chicken GabrieUe. of chicken Supr6nes of GABRIELLE the detaching the without detaching suprAmes, without the suprmes, Remove the cABRIELLE - Remove (q-v.) filets mignons. .v.) mirepoix (q of mirepoix layer of thin layer with aa thin Cover with filets mignons. Coyer cooked breadand breadwith egg egg and Coat with tender. Coat until tender. in butter butter until cooked in crumbs. in butter. butter. Saut6 in crumbs. Saut Suprmes voLAILLE DEVOLAILLE supnf;uns DE t l'impriale. I'imsriale. SUPRMES chicken of chicken Supr6mes of of with semi-circles semi-circles of supr4me.l with the suprmes Studthe A L'IMPRIALE r'itpfruaLp - Stud [ruffles stock. white stock. in white Cook in pickled tongue. tongue. Cook and pickled truffies and Fill lacrme crlme pur6e of of truffles trufres dla with aa pure barquettes with Fill cooked cooked barquettes and sauce SuprAmesauce with Suprme lightly with Coat lightly supr1mes. Coat put in in the the suprmes. and put (see mignons, studded with truffies, on trufres, on (see SAUCE). thef/etsmignons,studdedwith Putthefilets SAUCE). Put top of the thesuprmes. suprme* top of Suprmes voLAILLE DEVOLAILLE supnBursDE marquise. SUP~MES chickenmarquise. ofchicken Suprmesof MARQUISE puff ofpuff bouchiesof tvtthbouches Garnishwith inbutter. butter.Garnish Saut6 in MARQUIsE - - Saut pastry and kidneysand combs, kidneys cocks'combs, ofcocks' salpiconof pastry filled with aasalpicon flled with truffles juices with withcream, cream' panjuices thepan Dilute the cream. Oilute withcream. boundwith iruffies bound to (3tabletabletablespoons(3 and22tablespoons butterand added butter hasbeen beenadded whichhas towhich spoons) put andput sauceand thissauce withthis suprAmes with thesuprmes Coat the truffies. Coat spoons)truffles. filets mignons, poached in white stock, on top. top. on in white stock, poached mignons, filets VOLAILLE Suprmes voLAILLE DE suPRtMEs DE Montpensier.SUPR~MES ofchicken chickenMontpensier. Supr6mesof MONTPENSIER - Coat suprmes andbreadcrumbs breadcrumbs withegg eggand suprAmeswith the r,{oNrpsNsrER - Coatthe and in tipsin asparagus tips withasparagus Garnishwith butter'Garnish inbutter. themin andsaut saut6them butter suprme. Dot suprAme'Dot each oneach truffieon oftrume puttwo slicesof twoslices andput butterand with butters)' (seeBUTTER, Compoundbutters). BUTTER, Compound butter(see Norieitebutter with Noisette For use thickened brown veal gravy. Forsauce sauce use thickened brown veal gravy. Suprmes of chicken la Prigueux. SUPRMES DE VOLAILLE Supr6mes of chicken t la P6rigueux. supn0Mss DE VoLAILLE LA PRIGUEUX and put on crotons fried put cro0tonsfried on and inbutter butter Saut6in A r,c, pfRrcuEux- -Saut with coat with in Demi withDemicoat and truflesand withsliced slicedtruffles Garnish inbutter. butter.Garnish glace (see SAUCE), flavoured with Madeira. glacesauce sauce (see SAUCE), flavoured with Madeira.
1
1

DE VoLAILLE Supr0mes Suprmes of of chicken chicken Pojarski. Pojarski. supnBurs SUP~MES DE VOLAILLE Add 50 g. (2 oz., suprdmes. of the flesh the Chop POJARSKI - Chop the flesh of the suprmes. Add 50 g. (2 oz., g. (2 and squeezed, in milk soaked I1cup) breadcrumbs, cup) breadcrumbs, soaked in milk and squeezed, 50 50 g. (2 oz., oz., * t cup) cup) butter, butter, and and I 1 or or 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons fresh fresh cream. cream. Season Season flour wprAmes. Reshape the withsalt, with salt, pepper pepper and and nutmeg. nutmeg. Reshape the suprmes, flour lightly and saut6 saut in in butter. butter. lightly and Garnish Garnish with with a a green green vegetable vegetable cooked cooked in in butter, butter, and and dot dot with with Noiselte Noisette butter butter (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters)butters). VoLAILLE DE princesse. supnBuns Supr6mes Suprmes of of chicken cbicken princesse. SUP~MES DE VOLAILLE pRINcEssB PRINCESSE - Cook Cook in in veal veal or or chicken chicken stock. stock. Put Put the the suprdmes suprmes on on crofitons crotons fried fried in in butter, butter, garnish garnish with with asparagus asparagus tips tips in in with Allemande butter butter and and coat coat with Allemande sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE)' SAUCE). Place Place mignons, Put thefilets suprAme. two two slices slices of of trufres truffies on on each each suprme. Put thefilets mignons, studded studded with with truffies, truffles, on on top. top. DE VoLAILLE Supr6mcs Suprmes of of chicken chicken Richelieu. Richelieu. supnBuns SUP~MES DE VOLAILLE in and saut saut6 in and breadcrumbs egg and nrcnrrnu RICHELIEU - Coat Coat with with egg breadcrumbs and (see BUTTER, BUTTER, butter (see butter. butter. Dot Dot with with Maitre Matre d'h6tel d'htel butter oneachsuprAme. of trufre on put 4 4 slices and put slices oftruffle Compoundbutterst) Compound butters) and each suprme. RossIM DE VOLAILLE voLAILLE ROSSINI chicken Roasini. Supr0me of Suprme of chicken Rossini. suprBurs SUP~MES DE Garnish in butter. fried in butter. Garnish put on on crotons cro0tons fried and put Saute in in butter, butter, and - Saut trufles. and sliced sliced truffles. g/at sauted in butter, butter, and saut6ed in of foie gras with slices slices of with (se SAUCE). SAUCE). sauce (see with Madeira Madeira sauce Coat with supnturs vegetable* SUP~MES various vegetables. with various of chicken, chicken, with SuprGmes of Suprmes and suprmes and the suprmes Season the DIvERs -- Season Lux LGUMES lfcuurs DIVERS DE VOLAILLE VoLAILLE AUX DE in butter. butter. saut6 in saut diced vegetables: diced following vegetables: of the the following with any any of Garnish with Garnish braised peeled mushrooms, mushrooms, braised in butter, butter, peeled fried in aubergines fried aubergines in butter, butter, and simmered simmered in in chunks chunks and cut in cucumber eut endives, cucumber endives, of macCdoine of lettuce, macdoine braised lettuce, in butter, butter, braised French beans beans in French aspara' hfranPaise, asparaot d lafranaise, peas in in butter butter or in butter, butter, peas vegetables in vegetables pur6es. vegetable pures. or cream, cream, vegetable gus tips in butter butter or tips in gus juices, mixed wine white wine with white mixed with cooking juices, the cooking use the Foi sauce sauoe use For gravY. veal gravy. brown veal and thickened thickened brown and VERDI DE VOLAILLE VoLAILIJ VERDI supnElrlrs DE Verdi. SUP~MES dchicken Suprames of Suprmes chicken Verdi. pastry shell filled shell filled inaapastry Put them them in in butter. butter. Put suprhmes in the suprmes Saute the Saut gras.Put Put two two pur6e of of foie with pure bound with macaroni bound with diced diced macaroni foie gras. with lightly wi with coatlightly and coat suprdme and eachsuprme top of ofeach on top of truffie trufle on slices of th slices Marsala. with Marsala. (se SAUCE), finished with SAUCE), finished sauce (see Demi-glace sauce Demi-glace and in egg eggand coated in in slices, slices, coated cut in Add the mignons, cut the filets Add filets mignons, in butter. butter. andsauted saut6ed in breadcrumbs and breadcrumbs pounos Poach AL'ESTRAGON L'rsrRlGoN - - Poach I. POULARDE tarragon J. with tarragon Chicken with Chicken Decorate oftarragon. tarragon. Oecorate withaabunch bunchof inwhite white stock stock with chicken in aachicken chicken thechicken over the Pourover leaves. Pour tarragon leaves. blanched tarragon with blanched with and liquor,strained strainedand cookingliquor, thecooking ofthe tablespoons of several tablespoons several has tarragonhas choppedtarragon whichchopped towhich arrowrool to witharrowroot, thickened with thickened added. beenadded. heen
poJARsKI

with Chicken tarragon Chicken with tarragon

237 237

CHICK.PEA CHICK-PEA
Chicken with withtarragon tarragonn. If.POULARDE AL'ESTRAGON r'rsrR^ec,oN- - Cook Cook Chicken the chicken in butter in a covered dish in the oven. To serve the chicken in butter in a covered dish in the oven. To serve pour over it the cooking juices, diluted with white wine and pour over it the cook.ing juices, diluted with white wine and thickened veal gravy, to which a handful ofchopped tarragon thickened veal gravy, to which a handful of chopped tarragon has been added. has been added. Chicken timbale. See TIMBALE, CROOTES. Chicken timbale. See TIMBALE, CROTES. pouLARDE ,l LA rosclNs Chicken i la laToscane. Toscane. POULARDE Stuff the the LA TOSCAl'\E - - Stuff Chlcken (4 oz.,l cup) cooked spaghetti, 100 g. chicken wi g. (4 with 100g. chicken th 100 oz., 1 cu p) cooke<! spaghetti, 100 g. (4 oz.,l cup) of pur6e of foie gras,2 diced truffies and 50 g. (4 OZ., 1- cup) of puree of foie gras, 2 diced truffies and 50 g. (2 oz.,l cup) grated Parmesan, seasoned and bound with 4 (2 OZ., t cup) (* grated Parmesan, seasoncd and hound with 4 tablespoons (~ cup) thickened thickened hrown brown veal gravy. Cook veal gravy. Cook the the tabJespoons cup) chicken, and prepare the sauce as for Chicken d Ia Derby. chicken, and prepare the sauce as for Chcken la Derby. Surround the chicken with 8 pastry cases filled with ham, Surround the chicken with 8 pastry cases fjlled with ham. tongue and and !ruffies, truffies, bound bound with with Rich Rich brown (see brown sauce sauce (see tongue SAUCE), flavoured witb with tomato, tomato, and and with with 8 8 slices slices of offoie /ore SA UCE). ftavoured gras, tossed in butter. gras, tossed in butter. pan juices over the chicken. Pour the the pan Pour j UiL-eS over the chicken. poULARDE Tour.ousE poach the Chicken Toulouse. Toulouse. POULARDF. Chlcken TOULOUSE -- Poach the chicken in in white white stock. stock. GaOlish Garnish with garnish (see with Toulouse Toulouse garnish (see chicken GARNISH) and pour Allemande and pOlir (see SAUCE) over Allemande sauce sauce (see GARNISH) SAUCE) over it. iL. pouLARDE Arrx TRUFFEs Cook the Chicken wlth with truffles. hufres. POULARDE Chicken AUX TRUFFES -- Cook the chicken, covered, with butter in the oven. When cooked add chicken, covered, with butter in the oveu. When cooked add 250 g. (9 oz.) sliced raw truffies. Cover, and keep on low 250 g. (9 oz.) sliced raw truffies. Cover, and keep on low heat for a few moments. heat for a few moments. juices with Madeira and Rich brown Dilute the cooking cooking juices Dilute the with Madeira and Rich browll sauce (see SAUCE). sauce (see SA UCE). Chicken with trufres i la perigourdine (Plumerey's recipe). Chicken with truffles la prigourdine (Plumerey's recpe). IoULARDE rnurrm A m pEnrcouRDINE - .Draw and singe a POULARDE TRUffE LA PRIGOURDIt-.'E 'Draw and singe a chicken without damaging the skin. Wash and peel I kg. chicken without damaging the skin. Wash and peel 1 kg. (2 lb.) truffies and cut into pieces the size of pigeons' eggs. (2 Ih.) truffies and cut into pieces the size of pigeons' eggs. Keep the scraps. Simmer the trumes with salt, pepper, spices, Keep the scraps. Simmer the truffies with salt, pepper. spices, half a bay leaf, a small sprig of thyme and some grated nuthalf a hay leaf, a small sprig of thyme and sorne grated nutmeg, in 225 g. (8 oz., I cup) chicken fat and 225 g. (8 oz., I meg, in 225 g. (8 OZ., 1 cup) clticken fat and 225 g. (8 oz., 1 cup) melted, strained fat 15 minutes. Stuff the cup) melted, strained fat bacon, hacon, for for 15 minutes. Stutr the chicken with the mixture, cover with the outside skin of the chicken with the mixture, cover with the outside skin of the trufles On the served, 3 or or 4 4 days. days. On the day day it it is is served, truffies and an leave leave for for 3 remove the trufle skins and toss in butter with an onion, a remove the truffie sk.ins and toss in hutter with an onion, a carrot carrot and and a a sprig sprig of of parsley. parsley. Put Put the the chicken chicken on on a a skewer. skewer, bard with fresh pork bard with fresh pork fat, fat, cover co ver with with the the vegetables vegetables and and truffies, and wrap in oiled paper. Cook on a spit for l| hours, tfuffies, and wrap in oilcd paper. Cook on Cl spit for Il hours, sprinkling with water. 5 minutes before serving, unwrap the sprinkling with water. 5 minutes before serving, unwrap the chicken and let it brown. Remove from the spiq discard the chicken and let il brown. Remove from the spit, discard the bards and serve with Pdrigueux souce'(see SAUCE). bards and serve with Prigueux sauce' (see SAUCE). Chicken DE VOLAILLE Chicken turban turban (ring). (ring). TuRBAN TURRAN DE VoLATLLE - Line Line a a buttered savarin (ring) mould with thin slices of raw chicken. huttered savarin (ring) mould with thin slices ofraw chicken, overlapping the edges. Cover with a thin layer of Chicken overlapping the edges. Cover with a thLn layer of Chicken mousseline forcemeat (see FORCEMEAT). Fill the mould mousseline forcemeat (see FORCEMEAT). Fill the mould (q.v.) with with a a salpicon salpicon (q.v.) of of cooked cookoo chicken, chicken, truffies truffies and and mushmushrooms, rooms, bound bound with with Allemande Allemande sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Cover Cover with another thin layer of the forcemeat, folding the edges with another thin layer of the forcemeat, folding the edges of of the the sliced sliced chicken chicken over over it. it. Poach Poach the tbe 'turban' 'turhan' in in the the oien oven in a bain-marie for 40 minutes. in a bain-marie for 40 minutes. Leave for a few moments after cooking before unmoulding. Leave for a few moments after cooking before unmoulding. Fill Fill the the middle middle with wilh a a garnish garnish and and serve serve with with SuprAme Suprme or or Allemande sauce (see SAUCE). Allemande sauce (see SAUCE). pouLrr Chicken i la viennoise. Chlcken la vielUloise. POULET A u LA vrrxNorsr VIENNOISE -- This This method is for small spring chickens, but can be applied to method is for small spring chickens, but can be applied to small tender roasting chickens Qtoulets de grain). Joint the small tender roasting chickens (poulets de grain). Joint the chicken. Season the pieces with salt and pepper, flour them, chicken. Season the pieces with salt and pepper, flour them, dip in egg beaten with oil, and cover with fresh breadcrumbs. dip in egg beaten with oil, and cover with fresh breadcrumhs. Cook in clarified butter or lard. Serve on a napkin, garnished Cook in clarified butter or lard. Serve on a napkin, garnished with with fried fried parsley parsley and and quarters quartcrs of oflemon. lemon. This chicken may also be fried in deep fat. This chicken may also be fried in deep fat. Chicken vol-au-vent - See VOL-AU-VENT Chlcken vol-au-vent - See VOL-AU-VENT Chicken wings - See PINIONS. Chlckcn wings - See PIN IONS.

pouuq,nnr

nosae)originating originatingin inthe the Mediterranean Mediterranean area, area, one onespecies species of of I/osae) whichis iscultlvated cultivated in inFrance. France. which In south-western south-western France France chick-peas chick-peas are are cooked cooked en en ln estoufade (q.v.). (q.v.). They They are are used usedin greatdeal, inSpain Spainaagreat deal, being being eSlouffade an essential essential ingredient ingredient of of many many soups. soups. Chick-peas Chick-peas are arealso also an popular in very popular in North North Arrica, Africa, where where lhey partof they are are part of the the very garnish for for the the classic classic couscous. couscous. garnisn Chick-peas Catalan Catalan style. style. POIS nors CHICHF,S cHrcHEs ALA m CATALANE c^a.rnrANE -Chick-peas Soak the the chick-peas chick-peas untiJ until they quite soft. they become become quite Boil in soft. Boil in Soak water with with aa vegetable vegetable garnish garnish (for (for example, example, white white dried dried water beans), a garni (q.v.) (q.v.) and a bouquet bouquet garni piece of and aa piece of bacon. bacon. Season Season heans), with salt pepper. AdJ salt and and pepper. Add aa few few tablespoons tablespoons oil oil to to form form aa with layer of of fat fat on on the the surface. surface. Add Add Spanish Spanish sausages sausages called called layer chorizos. Simmer Simmer very gently for very gently for about about 4 4 hours. hours. chorizos. Drain the the chick-peas, chick-peas, remove remove the vegetable garnish and the vegeta and Drain hIe garnish garni and the bouquet bouquet garni put the and put the chick-peas chick-peas into into a a saucepan. saucepan. the Add a a few few tablespoons tablespoons tomato pur6e, the tomato pure, the chorizos chorizos and and the the Add bacon eut in unifonn pieces. Add cut in uniform pieces. Add a pinch of garlic and a pinch of garlic and a a few few hacon tablespoons of of the the liquid liquid left left over over from from boiling boiling the the chickchicktablespoons peas. Simmer Simmer for for 1 I hour. hour. peas.

pon CHICK-PEA. Plant (of the family CHICHF. - Plant (of the family LegumiLegumiCHICK-PEA. POIS cHrcrrE
238 238

(U.S. Endive). CHICORY (V.S. Endive). ENDIVE nNorw -- Magdehourg Magdebourg chicory chicory is is CHICORY known in in France France and and U.S.A. U.S.A. as as endive endive and and in in Belgium, known grown in where it it is is grown quantities, as large quantites, in large as chicore chicorie de de Bruxelles, Bruxelles, where (goat's witloof or or barbe-de-bouc barbe-de-bouc (goat witloof 's beard). Chicory roots, grown Ln roots, grown in the the dark, dark, are are white and and delicate. delicate. Clticory Chicory cornes comes into into season season in in Octoher October and and is is availahle available Chicory throughout the the win winter. It is is eaten eaten raw raw in salads, salads, or cooked in throughout ter. ft various ways. ways. various Method of of cooking. Trim and wash the cooking. Trim the chicory, leaving il it Method in water for as short a a time as as possible. a saucepan in water for as possible. Place in in a (l oz.,2 g. (1 with 25 25 g. o2'2 tahlespoons) juice tablespoons) butter, a a pinch of salt, juice with (6 tablespoons, of I dl. (6 and 1 scant * of f ~ lemon lernon and tablespoons, seant t cup) water, for (generous 1 500 g. I lh.) lb.) chicory. Cover and bring boil. 500 g. (generous hring to the hoil. Simmer Simmer steadily steadily for for 45 45 minutes. minutes. Another Trim and chicory and place in a Anolher method. method. Trim and wash the chicory saucepan saucepan with with 50 50 E.(2 g. (2 oz.,* OZ., t cup) butter, hutter, a pinch of of salt and a few few drops drops of of lemon lernon juice. juice. Cover Cover and stew stew for 45 minutes. Chicory in this Chicory cooked cooked in Ibis way way can can be he used used for the recipes given given below. helow. Chicory Chicory should should never never be be parboiled parhoiled before before stewing. stewing. Chicory Chicory ir la la bechamel. bchamel. nNnrvns ENDIVES A re LA sfcHAMer BCHAMEL - Cook Cook the chicory chicory as as above. a hove. Cover with with Bdchamel Bchamel sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE), SAUCE). and and the the cooking cooking stock, stock, boiled boiled down down with with butter. butter. Chicory Chicory with with brown brown or or noisette noisette butter. butter. ENDrvtrs ENDIVES AU AU BEURRE BEURRE NoIR Nom - Cook Cook the the chicory chicory as as in in the tbe first nrst recipe. recipe. Drain. Drain. Arrange Arrange on on a a dish. dish. Pour Pour on on lemon lemon juice juice and, and, just just before before serving, serving, hot hot Brown Brown or or Noisette Noiselle butter bu/ter (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). butters). Chicory Chicory with with butter. butter. ENDrvEs ENDIVES AU AU BEURRE BEURRE - Cook Cook as as in in first first recipe. recipe. Pour Pour on on the the stock stock with wi th a a piece piece of of butter butter added. added. Chicory Chicory chiffonnade. chiffonnade. cHTFFoNNADE CHIFFONNADE D'ENDrvEs D'ENDIVES - Remove Remove the the outer outer leaves. leaves. Wash, Wash, dry dry and and shred shred them them finely. finely. Cook Cook in in butter, butter, in in a a covered covered pan, pan, with with a a pinch pinc.:h of of salt salt and and sugar. sugar. Chicory Chcory chiffonnade chiffonnade with with cream. cream. cHTFFoNNADE CHfFFONNADf. D'ENDrvEs D'ENDIVES I u LA cniur CRME - Cook Cook as as in in the the first first recipe. recipe. Five Five minutes minutes before before serving, serving, moisten moislen with with 2 2 dl. dl. (| (!- pint, pint, scant scant cup) cup) boiling boiling cream. cream. Boil Boil fast fast for for a a few few seconds. seconds. Serve Serve with with the the cooking cooking stock stock and and fresh fresh butter. butter. Chicory Chicory i la la flamande. flamande. ENDrvEs ENDIVES A r,c LA TTAMINDE FLAMANDE - another another name name for for Chicory Chicory with witlt butter. buller. Chicory Chicory fritots. fritots. ENDrvBs ENDIVES EN EN FRrror FRJTOT - Cook Cook the the chicory chicory as as in in the the first first recipe. recipe. Drain Draio and and dry. dry. Quarter Quarter the the shoots shoots and and steep in a a marinade marinade of of oil, oil, lemon lemon juice, juice, salt salt and and pepper. pepper. steep in Before Before serving, serving, dip dip them them in in light light batter batter and and deep-fry. deep-f"ry. Serve Serve garnished. gaOlished. Chicory Chlcoryau augratin. gratin.ENDrvEs ENDIVESAU AU GRATTN GRATIN -- Cook Cook the the chicory chicory in in butter. butter. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with grated grated cheese. cheese. pour Pour on on melted melled butter. in the the oven. oven. butter. Brown Brown in Chicory Chicory in in gravy. gravy. ENDrvEs ENDIVES AU AU JUS JUS -- Cook Cook as as in in the the first first

CHIFFONNADE CHIFFONNADE

(Mcolas) Chicory (Nicolas) Chicory

tablespoons few tablespoons pour on a few on a and pour a dish dish and recipe. on a Arrange on recipe. Arrange the of the stock of cooking stock and the the cooking veal stock stock and concentrated con;entrated brown veal chicory. chicory. cnscQUE A LA rl GRECQUE rNoIvEs (hors-d'auvre). ENDIVES grecque (hors-d'uvre). Chicory dr la grecque a cloth cloth. in a and dry dry in Wash and shoots. Wash . chicory shoots. Trim small small chicory - Trim la d la Artichokes for Artichokes prepared as as for stock prepared a stock Plunge into a them into Plunge them recipe' in that that recipe. as in Finish as (see HORS-D'UVRE) grecque grecque (see HORS-D'(EUVRE).. Finish Name unuNriinn -- Name rlr MEUNIRE a, LA ENDIvEs Chlcory la meunire. mermiire. ENDIVES ir la Chicory butter. used brown butter. with brown for Chicory Chicory with used for the Cook the rralrnNnlsn -- Cook A LA Ln MILANAISE ENDIvEs Chlcory la milanaise. milanaise. ENDIVES ir la Chicory dish. an ovenproof ovenproof dish. on an Arrange on chicory recipe. Arrange first recipe. as in in the the first chicory as (see ASPARAGUS). ASPARAGUS)' lamilanaise d la Proceed for Asparagus milanaise (see Asparagus asfor Proceed as the Cook the tr{onNlv- - Cook i LA Ll MORNAY ENDIvEs Chicory Mornay. ENDIVES la Mornay. Chicory i la dish ovenproof dish in an an ovenproof Arrange in recipe. Arrange chicory first recipe. in the as in the first chicory as conand the the con(seeSAUCE) SAUCE) and sauce (see and Mornay sauce with Mornay coverwith and coyer grated cheese. cheese. with grated Sprinkle with centrated chicory. Sprinkle of the thechicory. stock of centrated stock oven. hot oyen veryhot inaavery Pour . and brown brown in melted butter butterand onmelted Pour on poloNllsE- -Cook the Cook the ALA rePOLONAISE ENDIvEs Chicory polonaise. ENDIVES lapolonaise. Chicoryi la proceed andproceed dishand inaadish Arrange in chicory recipe.Arrange firstrecipe. asin inthe thefirst chicory as (seeASPARAGUS). ASPARAGUS). polonaise (see as lapolonaise Asparagusdla asfor for Asparagus punrn D'ENDIVES as chicoryas Cookthe thechicory Pure D'ENDIvES- - Cook ofchicory. Puree of chicory. puRE pur6eand and Heatthe thepure sieve.Heat in ub through Rub through aasieve. recipe.R inthe firstrecipe. thefirst add cream. orcream. little butter butteror addaalittle of fewtablespoons tablespoonsof withaafew This pur6ecan thickened with can be bethickened This pure (see oraa SAUCE), sauce(see Bchamel SA UCE), or Veloutisauce orthick thickVelout sauceor Bichamel sauce biown Concentratedbrown potatoes.Concentrated third mashedpotatoes. ofmashed weightof itsweight ofits thirdof veal added. added. maybe be vealstock stockmay drythe the anddry Washand Chicory SALADE D'ENDIvns- - Wash slrlDED'ENDIVES salad. Chicorysalad. remaining theremaining Separate the Separate chicory. leaves. fadedIeaves. Removefaded chicory.Remove juice lemonjuice oil,lemon withoil, Seasonwith leaves shred . Season them' or shredthem halveor andhalve leavesand or vinegar, and pepper. pepper. and vinegar,salt, salt, or be also can orshredded, shredded,can also be Chicory, wholeOr leaveswhole theleaves withthe Chicory,with sauces). (seeSAUCE, Coldsauces). SAUCE,Cold dressed with Mayonnaise(see withMayonnaise dressed into salad. Cooked chicory can also be made into aa salado made be also can chicory Cooked

D'ENDIVE - Using cooked chicory sounruf D'ENDIVE sorff6. SOUFFL Chicory souffli. Chicory - Using cooked chicory a fine sieve, proceed asfor Endive souffid (see rubbed through througb a rubbed fine sieve, proceed as for Endive souffl (see ENDTVE). ENDIVE).

A c.lrs - The wild chicory cHIcoREE COFFEE. CHlCORE CHICORY, COFFEE. CHICORY, CAF - The wild chicory for coffee coffee since 1769. It substitute for a substitute as a used as has been been used root has root since 1769. It and has given rise to Germany in then in Sicily, used first was was first used in Sicily, then in Germany and has given rise to up-into cossettes,are roots, cut up The roots, industry. The important industry. an important an into cossettes, are -cut less finely' The different types or less more or powdered, more and powdered, dried and dried finely. The ditferent types selected ftom selected gros-grains, as commercially as gros-grains, from known commercially are known are cossetres; chicory small from (roots); demi-grains, cossettes cossettes (roots); demi-grains, from small cossettes; cbicory form' powder form. in powder chicory in and chicory courantes; and courantes; coffee, although this is than coffee, value than foodvalue more food has more Chicory has Chicory although this is is small. It produces consumed is amount consumed as the the amount impoitant as not important not smal!. lt produces prevents andprevents properties, laxative properties, and with laxative infusion with dark infusion aa dark much real coffee too when occurs which poisoning laffeine caffeine poisoning which occurs when too much real coffee justifiably, do not allow the addiuddi"ts, justifiably, Coffeeaddicts. isdrunk. drunk. Coffee is do not allow the addiincoffee. coffee' chicory in anychicory ofany tionof tion

plants, allplants, foraU incooking cookingfor usedin Term used CHIFFONNADE- - Term CHIFFONNADE Itisis ribbons.It orribbons. stripsor finestrips intofine cutinto otherwise, cut orotherwise, herbalor herbai lettuce cut into andlettuce sorreland ofsorrel mixtureof foraamixture usedfor specially used specially cut into butter. inbutter. juliennestrips cookedin andcooked stripsand julienne as a garnish for soups' usedas areused chffinnade s ihechiffonnades of Mostof Most the are a garnish for soupS. cHIFFoNNADE DE in butter. cooked chiffonnade Lettuce DE Lettuce chiffonnade cooked in butter. CHIFFONNADE finely, lettucefinely, ofa alettuce leaves the Slice BEURRE AU LAITUEAU BEURRE - - Slice the leaves of LAITUE in lettuce sliced Put the leaves. coarserleaves. Put the sliced lettuce in a a thecoarser asidethe leavingaside leaving forevery every butterfor tablespoons) butter panwith tablespoons(3(3tablespoons) *1th22tablespoons pan gently until the liquor cook and (g Season g. lettuce. oz.) 2SO 250 g. (8 oz.) lettuce. Season and cook gently until the liquor evaporated. has has evaporated. cHIFFoNNADE DE LArruE cream. with chifronnadewith Lettucechiffonnade Lettuce cream. CHIFFONNADE DE LAITUE Lettuce chffinnade way same the r-a, cnDMs-Prepared A LA CRME - Prepared inin the same way asas Lettuce chiffonnade moisten softened,moisten has lettuce the When buttei. cooked in cooked in butter. When the lettuce has softened, down until the and boil cream fresh few tablespoons with few tablespoons fresh cream and boil down until the with aa
239 239

CHIMNEY HOOK

CHIMNEY HOOK
pE-TSAI. CHINESE CABBAGE _ This cHou DE CHINESE CABBAGE oror PE-TSAI. CHOU DE CHINE - This cHrNE fairly common cabbage has oval heart common cabbage has anan oval heart with very tightly fairly with very tightly closed leaves. closed leaves. All recipes given green for cabbage can also Ail recipes given for green cabbage can bebe used. It It can used. can also _ be used raw salad, marinade, like be used inin raw salad, oror inin aa marinade, like red cabbage. red cabbage.
(FruiQ CHINOIS French name for green small CHINOIS (Fruit) -French name for small green oror yellow yellow
Chinese oranges, which preserved are braridy. are preserved inin brandy. Chinese oranges, which

liquor has evaporated. Iiquor has evaporated. This chffinnade can also be moistened with cream sauce. chiffonnade can also be moistened with cream sauce. This Mixed chiffonnade (garnish for soups). cHTFFoNNADE Mixed chiffonnade (gamish for soups). CHIFFONNADE MELANGEE - Prepared in the same way as iettuce chiffonnade, MELANGE - Prepared in the same way as Lettuce chiffonnade, with a mixture of equal parts of sorrel and lettuce lJaves. with a mixture of equal parts ofsorrel and lettuce le.aves. Sorrel chiffonnade. cHTFFoNNADE D'osErLLE _ prepared Sorrel chiJfonnade. CHIFFONNADE D'OSEILLE - Prepared with sorrel leaves in the same way as Lettuce cntXonniae. tt with sorrel leaves in the same way as Lettuce chiffonnade. It potage t!_lrg specially for sanft (see SOUPSAND AND isBROTHS). used specially for Potage sant (see SOUPS BROTHS). CHIMNEY HOOK. cnfumrinr - A toothed pot-hook CHIMNEY HOOK. CRMAILLRE - A toothed pot-hook used for suspending cauldrons and cooking pots in used for suspending cauldrons and cooking pots in chimneys. "hi-rr"yr. The. symbolic expression pendre ta ueiaiilire (to hang up -The symbolic expression pendre la crmaillre (to hang the chimney hook) means the first meal in a new home. up the chimney hook) means the first meal in a new home. CHINA See INTERNATIONAL COOKERY. CHINA - -See INTERNATIONAL COOKERY. CHINCHARD - See SAUREL. CHIN CHARD - See SA UREL. CHINE. cHATNE - The bony part adhering to the fillet of a CHINE. CHAINE - The bony part adhering to the fillet of a loin. of veal, mutton, lamb or pork, or the 6ony part of a rib loin of veal, mutton, lamb or pork, or the bony part of a rib or sirloin of beef. or sirloin of beef.

rwoll:::ffiinois Two types of chinois

(Larousse)

(Utensil)-- ConicaI CHINOIS (Utensil) Conicalstrainer CHINOIS strainerwith withaafine finemesh. mesh. CHIPOLATA Garnish of ofbraised CHIPOLATA -- Garnish braisedchestnuts, chestnuts, smal! glazed smallglazed onions, diced diced breast breast of pork, chipolata of pork, chipolata sausages, onions, somesausages, and andiome_ glazed carrots times glazed (see GARNISHES). carrots (see GARNISHES). Applies times eppiiesalso alsoto to cuts of of butcher's butcher's meat meat and and to to chicken. cuts chicken. Chipolata was originally originally an an ltalian Italian ragot ragoitt with with an an onion onion ^ Chipolata was foundation. The word word is is also foundation. The also applied applied to to small small sausages sausages enclosed in in sheep's sheep's intestines. intestines. enclosed
Chinese artichoke
Chinese artichoke

CHIQUETER -- To To indent indent the CHIQUETER the margins margins of of aa vol-au-vent vol-au_ventcase, case, the rim rim ofa of a tart, tart, or gdteau, with or gteau, the with a a small small knife. knife.

CHINESE ARTICHOKE. cRosNE DE JApoN plant CHINESE ARTICHOKE. CROSNE DE JAPON Plant originating in china and Japan, first cultivated in France for originating in China and Japan, first cultivated in France for its edible tubers, at crosnes (seine-et-oise). It is arso called its edible tubers, at Crosnes (Seine-et-Oise). It is also called knotroot, chorogi and Japanese artichoke. knotroot, chorogi and Japanese artichoke. vegetable, Tubers _This -are This vegetable, delicious delicious when when fresh, fresh, is is white. white. Tubers which have dried soating, are which have dried out out and and been been revived revived by by soaking, sometimes sold as fresh, and can be recogniied by a Siown sometimes sold as fresh, and can be recognised by a brown discolouration. discoJouration. The Chinese artichoke is rich in carbohydrates, mostly The Chinese artichoke is rich in carbohydrates, mostly sugars..It hasa pleasant, though rather insipid, tasie and is sugars. It has a pleasant, though rather insipid, taste and is easily digested. easily digested. Put the tubers in a strong linen cloth with a handful of Put the tubers in a strong linen cloth with a handful of sea-salt, and shake them well. Wash them and ..mou" uny sea-salt, and shake them weil. Wash them and rem ove any skin that is left. Blanch in salted water. simmer in butter skin that is left. Blanch in salted water. Simmer in butter without allowing them to brown. without allowing them to brown. Tubers prepared in this way can be served as thev are as a Tubers prepared in this way can be served as they are as a vegetable, or used to garnish a roast. vegetable, or used to garnish a roast. They can-also be prepared d la uime, aux . They fines herbes, herbes, au au can also be prepared la crme, auxfines jus and in aU the theways ways given given for for Jerusalem Jerusalem aitichokes artichokesfq.u.j. (q,v.). jus and in all

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Chives Chives

CHMS. CHIVES. crBouLETTE, CIBOULETTE, crvETTE CIVETTE - Chives Chives are are used used as as a a seasoning, seasoning, mainly mainly in in salads. salads.

In In certain certain illnesses illnesses a a salt-reduced salt-reduced (salt-free) (salt-free) diet diet is is prescribed. prescribed. This This requires requires not not only only the the drastic drastic cutting cutting down down of of condiments condiments but but also also the the elimination elimination of of foods foods -rich rich in in chloride. chloride.
CHOCOLATE. CHOCOLATE.csocor.trCHOCOLAT-The Thedried, dried,roasted roastedand andpolished polished 'nibs' 'nibs' or or almonds almonds of ofthe the cacao cacao bean bean are are crushed, crushed, and and the the resulting of good good quality, quality, is is about about 50 50 per per cent cent resulting liquor, liquor, if if of cocoa liquorisispartly partlydefatted, defatted,ititis iscobled cooledand and cocoafat. fat.When Whenthe theliquor solidifies solidifiesinto intoaahard hardblock, block,known knownas asbitter bitterchocolate. chocolate. This This is is used used for for baking bakingin in U.S.A. U.S.A. The The cooking cooking chocolate chocolate used used
240 240

the ofsodium sodium chloride. chloride. It It is is found found in in most most of of ihe the bodv body the form form of tissues tissues and and body body liquids, liquids, particularly particularly the the blood. blood.

CIILORIDE. CmORIDE. orr CHLORE - Metalloid Metalloid that that enters enters the the system system in in onr -

Chinese cabbage or Pe-tsai Chinese cabbage or Pe-tsai

CHOLESTEROL CHOLESTEROL
bay, The The seasoning seasoning usually usually consists consists of of onions, onions, thyme, thyme, bay, with cloves, andsalt. salt.The Thesauce sauceis iscombined combined with c1oves,nutmeg, nutmeg, pepper pepperand (lambic). aaglass glass of ofMadeira, Madeira, or orstrong strongBelgian Belgianbeer beer (lambic). Brown Choesels Choeselsila labruxelloise bruxelloise(Paul (PaulBouillard's Bouillard'srecipe) recipe)-- Brown an ox tail, cut into pieces, together with two calf (U.S. veal)

Encyclopddie). The Themanufacture manufacture of ofchocolate chocolate(l' (l'Encyclopdie). From to right: From left leftto right: Sifting Siftingthe thealmonds almonds ofthe of the cacao cacao beans; beans; Roasting; Roasting; Grating Gratingthe the almonds; almonds; Crushing Crushing the thechocolate chocolate

most most in in England England and and Franc France is is a a mixture mixture of of the the chocolate chocolate with some sorne of of the the fat fat removed removed and and sugar sugar added. added. In In liquor with

England this this is is known known as as pure pure chocolate chocolate and and in in the the U.S.A. U ,S.A. as as England bitter-sweet chocolate. chocolate. Milk Milk chocolale chocolate has has powdered powdered or or conconbitier-sweet added to to the the sweetened sweetened chocolate chocolate and and is is densed milk milk added densed fiavoured with vanilla, almond, cinnamon, cinnamon, etc. etc. Chocolate Chocolate flavoured used used in confectionery confectionery to coat sweets has has added added cocoa cocoa fat. fat. Cocoa is is made from powdered chocolate chocolate which which contains con tains Cocoa 18 per cent fat. only l8 Chocolate is is a a concentrated concentrated food, food, but but should should not not be be ihocolate abused. The The cocoa from from which it it is is made contains con tains theotheoabused. caffeine, which bromine - a nitrogenous nitrogenous substance similar similar to to caffeine, which bromine a stimulating effect on on the nervous system, system, and and makes makes stimulatingeffect has a also but also intellectual fatigue fatigue - but chocolate an excellent excellent tonic for intellectual and those obese and the obese is harmful to which is calcium to the those calcium oxalate, which with rheumatic or liver complaints. Vitamin and Vitamin phosphates and calcium, phosphates in calcium, rich in is rich Chocolate Chocolate is is therethereand is irelps the bones to absorb calcium D- and - which helps and workers and heavy workers valuaUh food for children, athletes, heavy fore a valuable for recommended for not recommended is not It is in moderation. It but in intellectuals, but diabetics, for diabetics, nor for constipation, rheumatism, nor from constipation, sufferers sufferers from eaten is better It is better eaten chocolate. It special chocolate, own special who have their their own who have meals. between meals. who the Spaniards, Spaniards, who by the to Europe Europe by brought to was brought Chocolate Chocolate was through spread through Its use use spread 1519. Its in 1519. Mexico in it in in Mexico had had discovered discovered it after. soon after. Europe Europe soon the increasing the of increasing secret of the secret divulges the Brillat-savarin divulges Brillat-Savarin Mother d'Arestrel, Mother Mme. d'Arestrel, which Mme, of chocolate chocolate which fiavour flavour of revealed Belley, revealed at Belley, Visitation at of the the Visitation of the the Convent Convent of Superior Superior of it the the make it good chocolate, chocolate, I)1ake you want to taste taste good 'When you want to to to him: Lim: 'When chocoit. The leave it. pot, and The chocoand leave coffee pot, faience coffee in a a faience night before before in night gives it it aa this gives and this night and during the the night concentrated during late hG becomes becomes concentrated consistencY.' tency. ' m uch better much better consis g. 40 g. Use 40 (beverage). CHOCOLAT cuocolAr -- Use chocolate (beverage). of chocolate Preparation Preparation of liquid' of liquid. cup of breakfast cup for aa breakfast good sweet chocolate for sweet chocolate oi.) good (11 Qtr oz.) hot and hot water and little water pieces, add addaa little into pieces, chocolate into the chocolate Brlak the Break soften' pan, let chocolatesoften, thechocolate the pan, let the gently' Coyer Coverthe heat gently. milk and heat milk and paste. 2or or Add 2 smooth pas into aasmooth whip into andwhip t[e heat heatand from the remove te. Add remove from paste, then then thepaste, dilute the todilute milk to or milk water or boiling water 33tablespoons tablespoons boiling or chocolate or Thechocolate time. The the time. all the stirring ail liquid, stirring ofthe theliquid, restof the therest toboil. boil. allowed to mustnever never be beallowed cocoa cocoa must
and tripeand oftripe madeof ragofrt made (Belgran cookery) cookery)-A CHOESELS - A ragot CHOESELS(Belgian pancreas. pancreas. meat, resembles meat, pancreas resembles removed,pancreas fatremoved, thefat with the C1eaned, Cleaned, with usually isusually pancreas,which whichis Beefpancreas, andelongated. elongated. Beef isfiat flatand but butis (18oz.). g.(18 oz.). 500g. about500 weighsabout forchoesels, choesels, weighs used usedfor partsof ofthe the otherparts byother supplemented by pancreasis isoften oftensupplemented Thepancreas The dish. thedish. ofthe flavourof qualities to tothe thefiavour addtheir theirqualities whichadd animal, animal, which breast andbreast sweetbreads,and calves'sweetbreads, quenellesof ofcaJves' kidneys, quenelles Ox-tail, Ox-tail, kidneys, inchoesels. choesels' featurein feetoflamb of lambfeature andfeet and

gently for 45 beef temperature and and cook cook gently for 45 beef fat. fat. Reduce Reduce the the temperature veal, cut into pieces, and minutes. minutes. Add Add 11kg. kg. (2i (2ilb.) lb.) breast breastof ofveal, cut into pieces, and minutes, stirring. I1large large sliced sliced onion. onion. Cook Cook for for a a further further 30 30 minutes, stirring. pieces' When the kidney has Addl Add 1beef beefkidney, kidney, cut cutinto intolarge large pieces. When the kidney has (* pint, lf cups) lambic stiffened, stiffened, moisten moi sten the the stew stew with with 3 3dl. dl. (1 pint, li cups) lambic garni (q.v.). Season with salt (Belgian (Belgian beer). beer). Add Add a a bouquet bouquet garni (q.v.). Season with salt and and cayenne. cayenne. a bottle of Cooi< Cook gently gently for for 30 30 minutes. minutes. Add Add to to the the choesels choesels a bottle of cooking liquor of the (scant pint,2l cups) S at. lambic anO lambic and 5 dl. (scant pint, 2i cups) of the cooking liquor White from from some sorne mushrooms mushrooms (see (see COURT-BOUILLON, COURT-BOUILLON, White o oms). cour t-bouillon for for mushr mushrooms). court-bouillon Fatty substance rendered CHOLESTEROL. CHOLESTEROL. cnorrsrfnor CHOLESTROL - Fatty substance rendered atheroma, of sufferers from diets The liver. by the assimilable from atheroma, assimilable by the liver. The diets ofsufferers contain arterioscleroiis, arteriosclerosis, gout gout and and liver liver complaints corn plaints should should contain only only moderate moderate amounts amounts of of cholesterol. cholesterol. contained in some Iielow is the the proportion proportion of of cholesterol cholesterol contained in sorne Below is foods: common common foods: 20.00 per 1000 Brains Brains 2000 per 1000 4'00 ,, Butter Butter 400 1.50 ,, Calf's Calf's heart heart 1 50 3'50 ,, Calf's Calf's kidney kidney 3 50 4.50 ,, Calf's Calf's lights lights 450 2.50 ,, Calf's Calf's liver liver 2 50 2'80 ), Calf's sweetbread Calf's 280 20'00 ,, Egg yolk Egg 2000 " less than I per 1000' contain less foods contain Ot[er foods Other than 1 per 1000. (phytosterol and ergoplants (phytosterol in plants found in Two substances substances found Two and ergoTherefore cholesterol. Therefore to cholesterol. resemblance to a strong strong resemblance bear a sterol) bear sterol) that vegetables avoid must diets must cholesterol-reduced diets on cholesterol-reduced those on those avoid vegetables that such as the substances, two in these particularly rich are are particularly rich in these two substances, such as the beans, broad beans, lentils) (peas, chick peas, haricot haricot beans, pulsls (peas, chick peas, pulses broad beans, lentils) and mushrooms. mushrooms. and comes either from origin. It cornes dual origin. a dual has a Cholesterol has Cholesterol either from (egg yolk, offal, milk, cream' butter) foods cholesterol-rich cholesterol-rich foods (egg yolk, offal, milk, cream, butter) mainly by the liver. effected mainly a synthesis synthesis effected of a result of or as as the the resuIt or by the Iiver. form itself in the body to form continue to can therefore therefore continue Chblesterol can itself in the body Cholesterol is reduced. foods cholesterol-rich foods is reduced. of cholesterol-rich intake of when the the intake even when even It forms part functions. variety of wide has a Cholesterol Cholesterol has a wide variety of functions. It forms part it enters into the composition of membranes; cellular of the of the cellular membranes; it enters into the composition of plasma to ensure the transpresent in in the the plasma is present it is fats; it tissue fats; tissue to ensure the transliver where where they are the Iiver fats to to the reserve fats by reserve acids by ference of of acids ference they are up. burned burned up. acids which act as produces bile bile acids liver produces in the the liver Its oxidation oxidation in Its which act as intestine. in the the intestine. agent in an emulsifying emulsifying agent an seems hormones corticosurrenaloma of the the corticosurrenaloma honnones seems The synthesis synthesis of The cholesterol. of that parallel to course a follow to to follow a parallel course to that of cholesterol. with the the excessive wrestle with to wrestle matter to delicate matter it is isaadelicate While it While excessive very easy to put a it is is very internally, it cholesterol internally, of cholesterol formation of formation easy to put a by eliminating simply cholesterol of intake of cholesterol simply by eliminating excessive intake stopto toexcessive stop diet. thediet. from the foods from certain foods certain especially in the overweight, especially avoid becoming becoming overweight, One should should avoid One in the limit the the percentage of calories tolimit itis iswiser wiserto and it fifties,and earlyfifties, early percentage of calories per cent. 30 fats to to30 per cent. fromfats derivedfrom derived be avoided: offal fatsshould should be animal fats containinganimal Allfoods foodscontaining avoided: offal Ali egg yolks, sweetbreads), kidneys, livers, (calves' and sheeps' (calves' and sheeps' Iivers, kidneys, sweetbreads), egg yolks, cream cheese milk,cream chocolate, milk, oysters, chocolate, margarine,oysters, butter,margarine, butter, cheese Port-Salut, Dutch, Gruydre,Port-Salut, quantities of ofGruyre, (apartfrom from small imallquantities (apart Dutch, potV', stews, saucs' charcuterie,pork, sauces, stews, cheeses),charcuterie, milkcheeses), andskimmed skimmedmilk and fats may be following the quantities of Small fried foods. fried foods. Small quantities of the following fats may be oil,sunfiower sunflower saffron oil, oil,saffron walnutoil, oil,walnut soyaoil, comoil, oil,soya eaten:corn eaten: from first pressing' oilfrom oliveoil virginolive alsovirgin andalso grapeseedoil, oil,and oil,grapeseed oil, first pressing.

clarified (4 oz., * sweetbreads sweetbreads in in 100 100 g. g. (4 oz., 1cup) cup) smoking-hot, smoking-hot, clarified

an ox tail, cut into pieces, together with two calf (U.S. veal)

sweetbread yolk

,, ,, ,, ,, ,, ,, ,,

It

241 241

CHOPE CHOPE
Allowed. Grilld orroasted roasted red (inmoderation), redmeats meats(in moderation), Allowed. Grilled or fish. fish. Recommended. Vegetables (French beans, endive, spinach, Recommended. Vegetables (French beans, endive, spinach, celery, leeks, beetroot, carrots, carrots, tomatoes, tomatoes,aubergines, aubergines, ail all celery, leeks, beetroot, types of green salad vegetables, asparagus, sorrel, onions, vegetables, asparagus, sorrel, onions, types of green salad artichokes, melon, cucumber, radishes, potatoes), all kinds artichokes, melon, cucumber, radishes, potatoes), ail kinds of fruit (but not walnuts, hazelnuts, chestnuts, and almonds). of fruit (but not walnuts, hazelnuts, chestnuts, and almonds). CHOPE Goblet of glass or earthenware, containing about ofglass CHOPE -- Goblet or earthenware, containing about litre (12fl. oz.), used for beer. t] litre (12 ft. oz.), used for beer.

CHOPINE- Old measure measureforwine, (lgft. equal to totIlitre fl.oz.). oz.). CHOPINE- Old for wine, equal litre (18
CHOPPING. sr,cnlcr - French term for chopping food is CHOPPING. HACHAGE - French term for chopping food is hachage or hachement. hachage or hachement. Hachage can also mean food which has been chopped, as Hachage can also mean food which has been chopped, as in onion hachage, though the more common word ii hachis. the more corn mon word is hachis. in onion hachage, though Meat is chopped on a chopping block, usually made of Meat is chopped on a chopping block, usually made of cross-grained planks set upright in a wooden frame. The cross-grained planks set upright in a wooden frame. The chopping blocks or tables must not be washed with water but chopping blocks or tables must not be washed with water but scraped with a special scraper, thoroughly dried with sawscraped with a special scraper, thoroughly dried with sawdust, and then rubbed clean. dust, and then rubbed c1ean.
BABTNEs - Slang name for lips of some animals, 'CHOPS'. BABINES 'CHOPS'. - Slang name for Iips of sorne animaIs, such as dogs or monkeys. The expression'to lick one's chops' such as dogs or monkeys. The expression 'to lick one's chops' indicates satisfaction at a good dish. indicates satisfaction at a good dish.

sq uo'ine'ho,Hlllil"lto bakin gIray trav Squeezing cbou paSle onlO baking

(Larousse)

CHOPSTICKS. BAGUETTES sacuerrEs -- The The 'fork' 'fork' of of the Far East, the Far East, CHOPSTICKS. indispensable to an Asian meal, made in ivory, ebony, or indispensable to an Asian meal, made in ivory, ebony, or plastic. The Chinese call them 'lively fellows'. They are not plastic. The Chinese cali them 'Iively fellows'. They are not difficult to to manipulate manipulate and and can can be be adapted adapted to to the the requirerequiredifficult ments of various dishes. They are used, for example, to pick ments of various dishes. They are used, for example, to pick up pieces of food, also to push rice into the mouth whenever up pieces of food, also to push rice into the mouth whenever it is permitted to raise the bowl to chin level. it is permitted to raise the bowl to chin level.

CHORONChef de de cuisine cuisine of of the the Voisin Voisin restaurant. restaurant. CHORON - Chef (Pastry) CHOU Bun made with chou which is is - Bun made with chou pastry, CHOU (pastry) pastry, which pushed through a forcing (pastry) bag onto a metal baking pushed through a forcing (pastry) bag onto a metal baking tray. The chou, chou, which which is either served served as it is, is, or oi tray. The is round, round, is is either as it stuffed some other stuffed with with cream cream or or sorne other preparation. preparation. Chou Chou pastry pastry or or cream cream puffpastry. puff pastry. pArs,\ PTE cHou CHOU - Ordinary Ordinary chou pastry is made as follows: chou pastry is made as follows: Ingredients. Ingredients. I 1 litre litre (If, (1 i pints, pints, generous generous quart) quart) water, water, 375 g. (13 oz., generous l{ cups) butter, 500 g. (lB oz., 4! 375 g. (13 oz., generous 11 cups) butter, 500 g. (18 oz., 41 cups) tabletablespoon salt, salt, 25 25 g. g. (l (1 oz, oz., 2 2 tablecups) sifted sifted flour, ftour, I 1 tablespoon spoons) spoons) sugar, sugar, 16 16 eggs; eggs; I 1 tablespoon tablespoon orange orange blossom blossom water water or or I 1 teaspoon teaspoon orange orange extract. extract. Method. Method. Boil Boil the the water, water, butter, butter, salt salt and and sugar sugar together together in in a deep flat-bottomed ftat-bottomed pan. pan. When When the the mixture mixture boils, boils, remove rem ove a deep pan from the heat and pour in the sifted flour. Mix well. the the pan from the heat and pour in the sifted ftour. Mix weil. Dry Dry out out the the mixture mixture over over a a low low heat, heat, working working it it with with a a wooden wood en spoon spoon until until it it comes cornes away away from from the the sides sides of of the the pan pan and and oils oils a a little. little. Add Add the the eggs, eggs, off off the the heat, heat, two two at at a a time, time, stirring stirring vigorously, vigorously, and and then then the the flavouring. ftavouring. Various cakes such as Various cakes such as 6clairs, clairs, Jacob's Jacob's ladders. ladders, SaintSaintHonorC, are made made with with this this pastry, pastry, as as are are Honor, profiteroles, profiteroles, are soufl6 souffl fritters. fritters. Cooking Cooking the the choux choux or or cream cream puffs. puffs. onEssAcE DRESSAGE Er ET curssoN CUISSON DEs cHor.x - Put the mixture through a forcing-bag onto a DES CHOUX - Put the mixture through a forcing-bag onto a buttered buttered baking baking tray, tray, allowing allowing a a space space between between each. each. Make Make them them the the size size of ofa a walnut walnut or or smaller smaller if ifthey they are are to to be be used used as as profiteroles. profiteroles. Brush Brush with with beaten beaten egg. egg. Cook Cook in in the the oven oyen at at (400'F., 200"C. Gas Mark 6) for 15 200C. (400F., Gas Mark 6) for 15 minutes. minutes. When When cold, cold, these buns are filled with French pastry cream (see CREAMS) these buns are filled with French pastry cream (see CREAMS) or orwith withany anyother otherfilling, filling, according accordingto to the therecipe. recipe. Chorx Chouxor orcream creampuffs puffsila lac6venole. cvenole.cHoux CHOUXA ra LAcfvrNorn CVENOLEThese are made like Choux or ueen These are made like Choux or cream Wffs puffs d la la udme crme (see (see below). When below). Whencold, cold,fill fill with withaa pur6e pure of ofchestnuts chestnutsmixed mixed with with whipped whipped cream cream and and flavoured ftavoured with with kirsch. kirsch.
242 242

Choux or puffs i la or cream cream puffs la ChantilJy. Chantilly. CHOUX cHorrx A LA Choux ra CHANcnaNrPrepare and and cook cook as as for for Choux Choux or or cream puffs cream puffs - Prepare ta d la (see below). crime (see below). Leave Leave them them to to cool, cool, split split and crme and fill fill with with (see CREA Chantilly cream cream (see CREAMS) flavoured with with vanilla. vanilla. Chantilly MS) ftavoured Chocolate choux choux or or cream cream puffs. puffs. CHOUX cnoux AU AU CHOCOLAT Chocolate cHocolAr -Prepared in in the the same same way way as as Coffee Coffee choux choux or puffs or cream Prepared cream puffs (see below). below). (see Coffee choux choux or or cream puffs. CHOUX cream puffs. cnoux AU lu CAF cmn -_ FiJI Coffee Fill the the cooked puffs puffs with with French pasty cream French pastry (see CREAMS) cream (see cooked CREAMS) flavoured with with coffee coffee essence. essence. Glaze Glaze with with sugar ftavoured sugar ftavoured flavoured with coffee. coffee. with Choux or or cream puffs cream puffs la crme. A la crime. CHOUX cHoux Choux A LA m CRME cntm -When the puffs are the puffs are cold, cold, slit slit them them on on one one si side When de and and fill fill with with French pastry (see CREA cream (see CREAMS). French pastry cream MS). Close Close the puffs and the puffs and sprinkle with with icing sugar. sprinkIe pufrs i la Ia frangipane. frangipane. CHOUX Choux or cream puffs cHor.x A LA r,c, FRANGInnaNcrIANE The same same as as Choux Choux or or cream puffs PANE d la la crme, - The crime, with with Frangipane (see CREAMS). creom (see Frangipane cream Glazed choux choux or or cream prffs. CHOUX cream puffs. cuoux GLACS Glazed GLAcEs - Ordinary puffs cream or any other other filling, and and glazed with puffs filled filled with with cream witir sugar cooked cooked to (see SUGAR, crack degree degree (see SUGAR, Sugar sugar to the the crack boiling). bOiling). Choux cream puffs Choux or or cream puffs Montmorency. Montmorency. cHorlx CHOUX MoNTMoRENcy MONTMORENCY crime. Fill the puffs, - Made Made like like Choux or cream puffs d Ia la crme. when pastry iream when cold, cold, with with a mixture mixture of of cherrie cherries Frenchpastry cream s and and French (see (see CREAMS) CREAMS) flavoured ftavoured with with cherry brandy. Choux Choux or or cream cream puffs puffs i la la normande normande - cnoux CHOUX i rl LA NoRMANDB NORMANDE - Choux filled filled with with a a stiff apple apple pur6e pure mixed with with a a third third of of its its weight of of French pastry pastry ueam cream (see (see CREAMS) CREAMS) flavoured fiavoured with with calvados. calvados.
TILLY TILLY

Plate Plate of of cream cream puffs puffs

CHRISTMAS. CHRISTMAS. Ndnr NOEL - In ln the the fourth fourth century century Pope Pope Julius Julius I1
was was to to be be celebrated. celebrated. In ln France, France, the the main main Christmas Christmasmeal meal is is served served on on the the night night

fixed fixed 25 25 December December as as the the date date on on which which the the birtl birth of of Christ Christ

CINNAMON
of24 24 to to 25 25 December, December, after after the the celebration celebration of of Midnight Midnight of Mass.This Thismeal mealis iscalled called the thereveillonreveil/on . Mass. Themenu menu for forthe thereveillon reveiflonand and for forChristmas ChristmasDay Dayitself itself-The essentiallyaafamily family celebration celebration-- must mustinclude includedishes dishes which which essentially ri tuaisignificance. significance.Even Evenififthe thereveillon reveiflonmenu menu includes includes haveaaritual have various expensivedelicacies delicaciessuch suchas/oiegras, asfoie gras,truffies, truffies,game gameof ofvarious expensive kinds,rare rarefish fishand andshellfish, shellfish,ititmust mustalso alsoinclude, include,in indeference deference kinds, totradition, tradition, aa black black or orwhite whitepudding, pudding, sometimes sometimes both, both, and and to a goose goose or or turkey turkey with with chestnuts, chestnuts, often often enriched enriched with with a truffies. truffies. In Britain, Britain, Christmas Christmas Day Day is is celebrated ceJebrated with with even even more more In gastronomic splendour splendour than than in in France. France . gastronomic 'For many many of of the the islanders,' islanders,' wrote wrote Alfred Alfred Suzanne Suzanne in in his his 'For book /a la Cuisine Cuisine anglaise anglaise et et americaine, americaine, 'this 'this anniversary anniversary is is book memorable (apart (apart from from all ail religious religious significance) significance) because because it it memorable slaughter of of turkeys, turkeys, geese geese and and all ail kinds kinds of of evokes u a great gr"ai slaughter evokes game, a a wholesale wholesale massacre massacre of offat fat oxen, oxen, pigs pigs and and sheep' sheep. They They game, envisage garlands garlands ofblack of black puddings, puddings, sausages sausages and and saveloys saveloys Invisage mountains of of plum-puddings plum-puddings and and ovens-full ovens-full of of mincemince.. .. .. mountains pies . .. .. .. pies. that day day no-one no-one in in England may may go hungry. hungry . '. '. '. This is is 'On that 'On family gathering gathering and and on on every table table the the same menu menu is is a family prepared . A A joint of of beef, a turkey turkey or goose' goose, which is usually pr.pated. sausages, and a ham, de iesistance, rsistance, accompanied accompanied by bya ham, sausages, the pice de ihe'piice and the game; then then follow follow the the inevitable plum-pudding and game; mince pies.' famous mince

CINNA MON

Insect common to southern countries. CICADA. CICADA. cIGALE CIGALE - Insect common to southern countries. cicadas

were very fond of According Accordingto to Aristotle, Aristotle, the theGreeks Greeks were very fond of cicadas larvae. and their and their larvae. Fermented drink with an apple base' It was CIDER. CIDER. cIDRE CIDRE- Fermented drink with an apple base. It was in the thirteenth century already already being being made made in in Normandy Normandy in the thirteenth century Charlemagne. Special and and is is mentioned mentioned in in the the Chronicles Chronicles of of Charlemagne. Special which have given a tart, and acid, sweet, are used, apples apples are used, sweet, acid, and tart, which have given a where they grow. There districts of the cider to the reputation reputation to the cider of the districts where they grow. There is made with sweet aie are early early and and late late species. species. A A good good cider cider is made with { t sweet ripening apples-are apples apples and and $ J sour sour and and acid acid apples. apples. Early Early ripening apples are rest should be the put put in in the the press press as as soon soon as as they they are are ready; ready; the rest should be heaps at the foot oftrees. in not and in attics, itored stored in attics, and not in heaps at the foot of trees. put in a press. The marc The The apples apples are are crushed crushed and and put in a press. The marc juice pressed out) is (what (what is is left left of of the the fruit fruit after after the the juice has has been been pressed out) is sprinkled sprinkled with with water water and and pressed pressed a a second second time. time. way as with wine. Fermentation Fermentation is is started started in in the the same same way as with wine. and the same same diseases Cider Cider is is subject subject to to the the same diseases as as wine, wine, and the same remedies remedies can can be be applied applied to to it. it.

of cider: sweet commercial brands There There are are different different commercial brands of according to or not, sparkling or cider, sparkling cider and cider and bottled bottled cider, not, according to fercomplete ferafter complete or after bottled before has been been bottled whether whether it it has before or less alcoholic and less drink and a refreshing refreshing drink is a It is cask. in cask mentation mentation in . It alcoholic wine. than wine. than
cider:
sweet

Chub (J. Boyer) Boyer) Chnb(J.

long CHUB. with aa long fish with Freshwater fish cHEvEsNE -- Freshwater cI{EVAINE, CHEVESNE CHUB. CHEVAINE, opening' spindly body, ventral opening. the ventral fin set set below below the dorsal fin the dorsal body, the spindly nab, The , nab , coheven, in English, English, coheven called in chub, called The- common common chub, bot/ing, , chabot, chavanne, chabot, chavanne, cabot, meunier, cabot in French, French, meunier, and in botlW, and of size of tes/ard, reaches aa size sometimes reaches etc.sometimes caboda,etc. rotisson, caboda, testai, rotisson, 50 (20 inches). inches). cm. (20 50 cm. and In blackfinand longjaw, black.fin as the the longjaw, known as chubs, known In U.S.A. U.S.A. chubs, isthe the bloater, LakeSuperior Superior is Lakes. Lake Great Lakes. in the theGreat are found found in bloater, are source fin, which used chubused theonly onlychub isthe whichis blackfin, of the the black most of of most source of extensively . fish. freshfish asfresh extensivelyas Ali .v.) (a (afish to (q'v.) fishbelonging belongingto f6ra(g for the thefra given for recipesgiven therecipes All the the also fishisisalso Thisfish chub.This tochub. applicable to areapplicable famitil are salmon family) the salmon used malelote (g .v.) . (q.v.). thematelote inthe used in

press for cider Applepress Apple for eider

CHEESE. SeeCHEESE. LUCHON- -See DELUCHON CIERPDE CIERP ina a mealin offa ameal roundsoff Tobacco CIGARETTE CIGAR, CIGAR, CIGARETTE - -Tobacco rounds o^r even beforeor it.Smoking Smokingbefore likeil. wholike forthose thosewho pleasant way wayfor pleasant even taste' oftaste. senseof thesense destroysthe anddestroys heresyand mealisisaaheresy themeal duringthe during altogether' glveup smokingaltogether. upsmoking togive haveto tastershave Profeisionaltasters Professional The tree' cinnamontree. thecinnamon ofthe Barkof ceNNulre- -Bark CINNAMON.CANNELLE CINNAMON. The resemble whichresemble ofbark barkwhich kindsof givento otherkinds toother alsogiven nameisisalso name speciesisis medicinalspecies The only flavour. or insmell smell cinnamonin cinnamon or ftavour. The only medicinal fgrm the shops the foundinin whichisis cinnatnonwhich Ceyloncinnamon the the Ceylon found the shops inin the form m' to up and (1inch) diameter cm. about1 1 sticks,about thin of of thin sticks, cm. (t inch) inin diameter and up to 1I m. each pieces of bark, rolled ofrolled consistingof yard) length,consisting (1(lyard) inin length, pieces of bark, each easily colour, yellow (6inch) thick. inch; about about i imm. thick. ItItisis yellow inin colour, easily --. (io hot sweet, fine, very and aroma spicy witlia a breakable,with breakable, spicy aroma and aa very fine, sweet, hot taste. taste. shorter, found (Cassia lignea) cinnamon The Chinese The Chinese cinnamon (Cassin lignea) is is found inin shorter, yellowish bark, rolledbark, layer of one of formed sticks, thicker thicker sticks, formed of one layer of rolled yellowish easily spots, black few brown with colour, brown colour, with aa few brown oror black spots, easily browninin taste' and aroma pleasant less with but breakable but with aa less pleasant aroma and taste . breakable cinnamon Powdered oil: volatile contains Cinnamoncontains Cinnamon aa volatile oil: Powdered cinna mon is is adulterated' and quality bark inferior from made often made from inferior quality bark and adulterated. often (with oils the essential dried sometimes are sticks Cinnamon sticks are sometimes dried (with the essential oils cinnamon practice fraudulent such but sold, being before extracted) before being sold, but such fraudulent practice is is extracted) rare. rare.

CHUTNEY made whichisismade origin which Indianorigin ofIndian Condimentof CHUTNEY- - Condiment garlic, comrriercially. raisins,garlic, seededraisins, withseeded pur6emade madewith Itisisaapure commercially. Il shallots,pimentos, and vinegar. vinegar' and sugar mustard,brown brownsugar apple,mustard, shallots, pimentos,apple, Bring t pints, tothe th9 vinegarto quart)white whitevinegar generousquart) pints,generous litre(1(l* Bring1ilitre boil. sliced. sliced' and peeledand apples,peeled (3+lb.) lb.)cooking cookingapples, ke.(3{ AddIt boil.Add Ukg. Cook (18 oz., brown sugar, brownsugar, 2|cups) cups) oz',2t 500g.g'(18 add500 andadd themand Cookthem 25 (7 oz., (7 ll oz',li 200g.g. chillis,200 choppedchillis, finelychopped oz.,t Icup) cup)finely 25g.e.(10oz., cups) g.g. (18 oz., 33 cups) chopped, (18 finelychopped, cups)finely oz., 500 iaisins,500 seededraisins, cups)seeded preserved g.g. (18 oz., 2 cups) diced preserved dicedpreserved (18 cups) o2.,2 peel,500 500 preservedlemon lemonpeel, teaspoons ginger, cru shed garlic c1oves. 44 salt, teaspoonssalt, with Seasonwith garlic cloves.Season grnger,2 2 crushed 125 g. (4(4 oz., 1t cup) mustard grains, and 15 g.g.(toz.,2table' (toz., 2 table15 grains, and mustard cup) oz., 7Z{e. spoons) IfIfpossible, add 500 g.g. (18 oz.) (18 oz') 500 add possible, ginger. powderedginger. spoons)powdered preserved mangoes. Cook for 88 minutes. Put into warm glass glass warm into Put minutes. for Cook pi"seru"d mangoes. jars while hot, and seal. jars and seal. hot, while Ordinary with rubber rings and screw caps caps screw jars rings and rubber with bottlingjars Ordinarybottling are best. are best.

243 243

CINNAMONE

CINNAMONE
CITRON.CDRAT cfDRAr- -Species Speciesof lemonwith oflemon witha avery verythick thick CITRON. coruscated skin,cultivated cultivatedon on the Mediterraneancoast. coast. coruscated skin, the Mediterranean perfumedand, highlyperfumed and,unlike unlikethe the ordinarylemon lemon or ltItisishighly ordinary or orange,isis seldomeaten eatenin ina anatural naturalstate. state.Because Becauseof its orange, seldom ofits thickskin skinititisischiefly preserved,and chieflypreserved, andisis muchused usedin in cakethick much cakemakingand andconfectionery. confectionery. making InCor Corsica, where1titisiswidely widelycultivated, cultivated,a a liqueurca sica, where liqueur lied ln called cidratine isismade madewith withthe thefruit. fruit. cdratine CITRONELLA. CITRONELLE cnnoNsr,r.s- -Common Commonname name forCollinCollinCITRONELLA. for soniacanadensis, canadensiJ, aacoarse plantofthe coarseplant of themint mintfamily. family.ItItexudes sonia exudes penetratingscent, scent,rather ratherlike likelemon. lemon.The Theleaves leavesare areused usedfor for aapenetrating seasoning. Digestive Digestive liqueurs liqueursare aremade fromits madefrom itsflowers. seasoning. flowers.

CITRUS AURANTIUM AURANTIUM (Seville (Sevilleorange). orange).BIGARADIER, BTcARADTER, CITRUS stclnlos - -Species Speciesof bitterorange ofbitter orangeused inconfectionery usedin confectioneryand arid BIGARADE indistilling distillingcertain certainliqueurs liqueursand anddrinks. drinks. It Itisisused usedin incookery cookery in for spicing spicing various various sauees game, in saucesfor particularfor for game, in particular foi for waterfowl, and andalso forma alsofor making bitter orange orange marmalade. marmalade. waterfowl, king bitter green leaves Thegreen principally used leavesare areprincipally (see usedas asan aninfusion infusion(see The TTSANE). TISANE). The flowers, flowers, or or orange orange blossoms, blossoms, are are used inconfectionery, confectionery, usedin The pharmaceutics and perfumery (distilled and perfumery (distilled orange orange blossom pharmaceutics blossom water, essenceofneroli). essenc of neroli). water,
CITRUS FRUIT. FRUIT. AGRUMES AGRUMEs - - Collective Collective noun noun for CITRUS for oranges, oranges, lemons, tangerines, grapefruit and tangerines, grapefruit and other cultivated Rutaceae. other cultivated lemons, Rutaciae.
trees Cinnamon trees

Cinnamon

CITRUS MEDICA MEDICA -- See See AIGRE AIGRE DE DE CDRE. CEDRE. CITRUS

cinnamon (cannelle). cinnamon (cannelle). CISELER - French term for superficial incisions on the back CISELER French term for superficial incisions on the back of a fish to hasten its cooking. Also applied to the slicing of of a fish to hasten its cooking. Also applied to the slicing of any kind of leafy herb which is to be cut up into jutinne any kind of leafy herb which is to be cut up into julienne (q.v.) strips or into a chffinnade (q.v.). (q.v.) strips or into a chiffonnade (q.v.). CITRIC ACID. CITRIQUE crrRreuE Organic acid acid found found in great in a a great - Organic CITRIC ACID. many fruits (lemons, oranges, gooseberries, gooseberries, raspberries, raspbeiries, many fruits (lemons, oranges, etc.) and some other plants. It is extracted from lembn juice; etc.) and sorne other plants. It is extracted from lemon juice, or it is prepared commercially by fermentatio-n of glucose. Ii or it is prepared commercially by fermentation of glucose. It appears in large fragile crystals, with an'agreJable appears in large fragile crystals, with an agreeable acid flavour, dry, but and is is soluble soluble in in water. water. It It keeps keeps well weil when when dry, flavour, and solutions of citric acid are rapidly invaded by moulds. solutions of citric acid are rapidly invaded by mou Ids. Citric is used used for for making making lemonade lemonade ind and also also orange orange Ci tric acid acid is and and lemon lem on syrups, syrups, etc. etc. Citric Citric acid acid syrup syrup - See See SYRUp. SYRUP.

Old name name for for a a spice spice which which is probably is probably - Old CINNAMONE -

CINNAMONE

CMT-Word mainly used used for forragodls game, which CIVET - Word mainly ragotsoffurred of furred game, which are moistened moistened with with red red wine, wine, garnished garnished with are with small small onions, onions, lardoons and and mushrooms, mushrooms, and and combined, combined, when lardoons when cooked, cooked, with the the blood blood of of the the animal animal in question. This in question. with This liaison liaison with with blood is is essential essential to to the the dish. dish. blood The name preparation cornes name of of this this preparation The comes from from the the word word cive cive (green onion) onion) because because the the dish dish was was flavoured (green flavoured with with these these onions. It can can be be made made with with any any furred furred game, game, and It and also also with with feathered or fowl. fowl. There There are feathered game or are even civets de even civets fu viandes viandes in in some districts, and and spiny lobster civets sorne civets in in Languedoc. Languedoc. Civet ofhare of hsre Civet - See HARE. Civet of spioy spiny lobster lobster See SPINY Civet of SpINy LOBSTER, LOBSTER, Spiny Spdny - See . lobster stew. /obster
CLAFOUTI Fruit pastry or thick fruit pancake CLAFOUTI - Fruit pancake from the Limousin, Limousin, usually made with black cherries. cherries. 125 g. generous cup) oz., generous g. (4+ (4t oz., Ingredients. 125 cup) flour, flour, 2 2 eggs, eggs, - -Ingredients. 100 100 g. g. q (4 oz., scant cup) cup) powdered sugar, haliof half ofwhich which is kept kep; to sprinkle sprinkle over over the fruit, fruit, 2 dl. (| (t pint, scant cup) boiled mili<, milk, a pinch pinch of of salt, and 400 g. g. (14 oz.) cherries. Fill the pastry cherries. Fitt with bake in a buttered flan cise case in with the the stoned cherries, and bake the the oven. oven.
CLAIRE CLAIRE - Name Name of of the the marine marine enclosures enclosures in the Marennes region region where where the the oysters oysters are are left left to to go go green. green. (See (See OySTER, OYSTER, Green oysters\. Green Marennes Marennes oysters).
wine. wine. It It was was well weil known known at at the the time time of of Charlemagne, Charlemagne, and and was was called called vin vinpiment, piment, or or simplypan simply piment. In this this form form it it was was drunk drunk ent.In as as an an ap6ritif, apritif, made made in in the the same same way way that that vermouth vermouth and and other other mixed mixed wines wines are are made made now. now. This This wine wine was was not not the the same same as as vin vin clairet, clairet, which which was was a a natural, natural, raw raw wine, wine, neither neither red red nor nor white, white, a,grey a 'grey wine' wine' as as it it would wou Id be be callod called today. today. It It was was of ofvin vin clairel clairet that that poets poets sang sang in in the the eighteenth eighteenth century. eentury. Le Le Grand Grand d'Aussy d'Aussy says says of of the the other other clairet:,something clairet: 'Something had leen been lacking lacking at at a a feast feast If ifpiment piment had had not not been been served'; served'; !a! this this being being the the name name given given to to the the wine wine in in the the thirteenth thirteenth

CLNRET CLAIRET - Formerly, Formerly, clairet clairet was a a spiced spieed and and flavoured flavoured

Citron

24 244

CLOVE CLOVE
century. century. Clairet Clairet or or piment piment was was made made in in the the religious religious houses. houses. He He also also says says the the pouillis pouillis (statements (statements of of ecclesiastical ecclesiastical profits profits in prove that that in in the the twelfth twelfth and and fourteenth fourteenth in a province), province), prove centuries the the priors priors of the the deanery of of Chflteaufort, Chteaufort, on on the the Feast Feast of of the the Assumption, Assumption, were were each each in in turn turn required required to to provide provide piment piment for for the the chauvines chauvines (nuns (nuns or or postulants). postulants). This This apgritif apritif was was made made only only with with vin vin clairet. clairet. Il had had several several shadcs: grey, straw coloured, eoloured, 'partridge-eye', 'partridge-eye', etc. etc. different shades: Current legislation Jegislation of of appellations appellations d'origine d'origine authorises authorises the the Current use of the the word word clairet clairet in in Bordeaux Bordeaux and and Burgundy; Burgundy; Bordeaux Bordeaux use of clairet, Bordeaux Bordeaux sup6rieur suprieur clairet, clairet, Bourgogne Bourgogne clairet. clairet. clairet, The expression expression clairet clairet designates designates a pale pale red, light-bodied light-bodied wine, wine, not nOI quite quite a ros6. ros. It lt should be be drunk drunk young young and slightly chilled. chilled.

It

CLAIRETI'E - Name Name given to a sparkling sparkling white white wine made made CLAIRETTEin Dr6me, Drme, where where it is called Clairette Clairette de Die. Also Also the name name of a white white grape grape grown in the Mediterranean Mediterranean regions. regions. of CLARET - Name given given in England to red Bordeaux Bordeaux wines. wines. CLARET

CLEMENTINE. CLEMENTINE. crfirarNrlNE CLMENTIl\'E - Fruit Fruit of ofthe the clementine clementine tree, tree, a of unknown unknown origin origin discovered discovered at at the the beginning beginning of of a hybrid hybrid of the the twentieth Iwentielh century. century. It Il seems seems to 10 be he closely closely related related to 10 the the mandarin mandarin tree. tree. The The clementine is is a a small, small, round, round, orange-coloured orange-coloured fruit, fruit, flattened both ends. ends. The The flesh flesh is is sweet, sweet, juicy juicy and and modermoderflattened at both ately ately acid. acid. The The true true clementine clementine is is seedless. seedless. Recently Recenlly the the Montreal Montreal clementine, clementine, an an earlier earlier and and more more prolific prolific variety variety containing containing about about twenty twenly seeds, seeds, has has been been developed. developed. The is cultivated cultivated in in North North Africa Africa and and Spain, Spain, The clementine is and and is is rharketed marketed between between the the middle middle of of October October and and the the end end of of January. January. Its Its development development has has been been detrimental detrimental to to that that of of the the mandarin mandarin (tangerine), (tangerine), as as clementines clementines have have a a more more delicate delicate flavour are often seedless. seedless. flavour and are It Il is usually usually eaten caten as as a a fresh fresh fruit. fruit.

CLIMAT CLIMAT - Certain Certain vineyards, vineyards, especially especially in in the the Cdte Cte de de Nuits Nuits district, district, are are so so called called because because each each has has a a specific specifie
climate. c1imate.

CLISSECLISSE - Small Small tray tray or or mat, mat, made made of of wicker wieker or or rush, rush, used used to to
drain drain cheeses. Also Also a a wicker wicker covering covering round round a a bottle. boille.

CLAM. CLAM_ pALouRDE PALOURDE - Name Name for for many edible edible bivalve bivalve molluscs molluscs low tide. which live in slimy slimy sand and are found at atlow tide. Some these molluscs are are cultivated in in special special beds beds Sorne of these of Bourgalong the beaches beaches of of Auray, Auray, Croisic Croisic and in the Bay Bay of Bourgof neuf. Auray and and Roscoff Roscoff are the principal French centres of the clam trade. t rade. coast the name In many of the places along the Atlantic Atlantic coast na me TapC stries palourde is d stries applied to other molluscs is also also applied 10 olher molluscs Tap sties fines, croisCes, tap tapi virginal, and tapC croises. virginal, and lap d slries fines, are are called palourdou in these molluscs are in La La Rochelle. In In Provence Provence these clovisses. ca lied clovisses. called in France They are are mainly eaten raw They mainly eaten raw in France but but the the North North it in this shellfish, prepare il Americans, who who are very fond fond of Ihis many ways. and other for clovisses, clovisses, oysters, mussels and All Ali recipes given for shelltisn be applied to them. shellfish can be SOUP. chowderClam chowdcr Oam - See SOUP.
liquids. The of food, usually Clarifying of CL ARIFICATION CLARIFICATION usually liquids. - Clarifying process varies for for different substances. proeess BOUILLON. See BOUILLON. Clarlfication of bouillon. Sec Clarification DU BEURRE BEURRE cLARIFIcATIoN butter. CLARlFICA Clarification of butter. Clarification TlON DU - Heat gentle heat; heat; the butter butter melts and appears the butter a very genlle butter on ona on the forms on while a a white white deposit deposit forms oil while as olive as c1ear clear as olive oil as into anolher another pan. Strain clear butter butter into Strain the the clear bottom of of the the pan. bottom receptacle. DEs cLARIFIcATIoN fruit juices. liquids and and fruit of Ilquids Clarification of Oariflcation TION DES idces. CLARIFlCA liquids can can be Most liquids DE FRUITS FRUtrs -- Most ET DES DEs SUCS sucs DE LreurDEs ET LIQUIDES juices are ferlight ferare clarified clarified by by lighl fruit juices clarified by by filtering; filtering; fruit clarified mentation. See SUGAR. of sugarClarification - Sec Clarification ofsugar
sclarea Salvia sclarea name of of the the Salvia Common name oRvALE - Common CLARY. CLARY. ORVALE for in England England for (herb of used in formerly used family) formerly the sage sage family) (herb of the it has has a a in wine wine it pastries. When infused infused in tries. When Ilavouring certain pas flavouring certain Italian in making making Italian used in of the the herbs herbs used It is is one one of muscat taste. taste. It muscat vermouth. vermouth.
BARBE-DEMUSHROOM. BARBE-DEor CLUB-TOP CLUB-TOP MUSHROOM. CLAVARIA or CLAVARIA spindle-shaped mushroom Capless, spindle-shaped CHVRE, cHivRE, CLAVAIRE cLAVAIRE -- Capless, pink white, pink grows into various colours, colours, white, of various into branches branches of which grows which rather and rather indigestible and tough, indigestible purple. Il but tough, It is is edible edible but or purple. or insipid. insipid. in oil oil saut6ed in prepared like like other mushrooms: sauted other mushrooms: It can can he be prepared It crhme, etc. etc. provengale; it la Ia crme, or or butter; butter; d la la provenale;

CLOCIIE CLOCHE - Silver or plated plated cover coyer for for keeping keeping dishes dishes warm; warm; also a glass also a glass cover coyer under under which which cheese cheese is is kept, kept, or or a a glass glass
utensil used during cooking cooking (see (see MUSHROOMS, MUSHROOMS, used as as a a cover coyer during sous cloche\. Mushrooms sous cloche).

(JeanJoseph) CLOSE CLOSE (Jean-Joseph) - Famous Famous pastry-cook pastry-cook born born in in said to Normandy, Normandy, said to have have invented invenled the the pdtC pl de de foie foie gras gras aux truffes 1782, when he truffes in in 1782, he was was in in service with with the the marchal marchal governor of of the Contades, governor the province province of of Alsaoe Alsace at at the the time. time. de Contades, gras were terrine de However, the pdti pt and the terrine de foie gras were known known in in Close' It France before of France the the south-west of before the the time time of of Close. It is is and perdish in in Alsace, possible that that Close popularised popularised the the dish Alsace, and perperfected it. it. haps perfected baps
de Nuits of the C6te de vineyard of Famous vineyard VOUGEOTCLOS VOUGEOT - Famous the Cte Nuits to (situated in has the Vougeot) which of Vougeot) the commune commune of in Ihe (situated which has the right right to (see BURGUNDY). Apart a special special appellation contrle BURGUNDY). Aparl contrdlCe (see a fact that from its its wines, for the the wines, Clos Clos Vougeot Vougeot is is famous famous for the fact from that the of chiteau in in the middle vineyards is is the the headquarters headquarters of of the vineyards chteau middle of (see CONFRRIES VINEUSES). the Confrrie ConfrCrie du tastevin (see CONFRERIES VINEUSES). du laSlevin the Pinot; the the grape of wines is is the the Pinot; Vougeot wines of the the Clos Clos Vougeot The grape The geologiThe geologicommune. The remainder of of the the commune. the remainder Gamay serves the determinant are determinant subsoil are and subsoil soil and composition of of the the soil cal composition cal produced. particular flavour wine produced. of the the wine flavour of factors in in the the particular factors great importance importance to to which which gourmets attach attach great and gourmets Oenologists and fact il it is is the the and rightly rightly 50. so. In In fact from, and a wine wine cornes comes from, vineyard a year and determine that determine the soil soil that vine, the and the the microdimate, microclimate, the the year vine, personality of a wine. the personality of a wine. the

for cloth filter filter for woollen cloth White woollen BLANcHET -- White FfLTER. BLANCHET CLOTH FlLTER. CLOrn liquids' and thick thick liquids. syrup and straining syrup straining
is used used of of This term term is To become cloudy. This become c1oudy. LoucHIR -- To CLOUD. LOUCHIR CLOUD. longer c1ear. clear. is no no longer a liquid liquid which which is a

of the the (To stud) consisting of An operation operation consisling stud) -- An CLOUTER (To CLOUTER and scarlet scarlet ham, and pieces of cooked ham, of trumes, truffies, cooked insertion of of small small pieces insertion game. fowl, game. into meal, meat, fowl, tongue inlO tongue and anchovy and fillets of of anchovy with trumes, truffies, fillets are studded Fish are studded with Fish gherkins. gherkins.
(cLou DE) tree clove tree of the the c10ve or) -- Flowers Flowers of crRoFLE (CLOU CLOVE. GIROFLE CLOVE, probably cornes comes The tree tree probably in the the sun. sun. The picked in dried in in bud and dried bud and pieked in the the first cultivated cultivated in was tirst but was from China, China, but originally from originally It was was monopoly. It had the the monopoly. Dutch, who who had the Dutch, Moluccas by by the Moluccas Governor Mauritius by by Governor and Mauritius R6union and into Runion introduced into introduced and ZanziZanziIndies, Cayenne Cayenne and West Indies, the West into the and later later into Poivre, and Poivre, bar. bar. sepals. four sepals. a calyx calyx with with four and a stem and a four-sided four-sided stem have a Cloves have Cloves
245 245

fattened. are fattened. oysters are Bed where where oysters CLAYDRE CLA YRE -- Bed certain on which which certain of rush rush orstraw or straw on mat of CLAYON -- Small Small mat CLAYON given 10 placed. The is given to small small wire wire trays. trays. same name name is The same foods are are placed. foods

CLOVISSE CLOVISSE
They have have an an aromatic aromatic scent scent and and a a hot hot spicy spicy flavour, flavour, and and They are used used for for seasoning seasoning in in cookery. cookery. They They are are sometimes sometimes sold sold are mixed with cloves cloves which which have have already already been been used in the the manumanuused in mixedwith facture of of dyes dyes or liqueurs. The or liqueurs. The clove clove matrix matrix or or fruits fruits of of the the facture clove tree tree are are also also sold sold as as cloves. cloves. clove The clove clove is is an an excellent excellent condiment condiment and powerful and a a powerful The antiseptic. antiseptic.
(Spanish cookery) COCIDO (Spanish cookery) -- Popular Popular Spanish Spanish soup, soup, also also COCIDO known under (q.v.). under the name of podridn (g.v.). the name of Olla Olla podrida known

COCK-A-LEEKIE or (Scottish cookery) or COCKY COCKY-LEEKY cookery) -COCK-A-LEEKlE -LEEKY (Scottisb Soup made made of (See SOUP.) of cock cock and and leeks. leeks. (See SOUP.) Soup COCKLE. BUCARDE BUcARDE -- European European marine marine bivalve bivalve mollusc mollusc of of COCKLE. genus Cardium, the genus Cardium, found found mainly mainly at at the mouth of the mouth of rivers. rivers. The The the type found found on on the the Atlantic Atlantic coast coast of of France, France, called called bucarde bucarde type sourdon, is is edible. edible. It It is is also also known known in in France France under under the names the names sourdon, poor man's of coque, coque, sourdon sourdon and and poor man's oyster. oyster. of Cockles are are eaten raw and and can prepared like eaten raw can also also be be prepared like Cockles (q.v.). mussels (g.v.). mussels COCK'S COMB. COMB. CRTE cRgTE DE DE COQ coe -- Fleshy Fleshy excrescence, excrescence, often often COCK'S voluminous, found found on on the the heads heads of galliof cocks cocks and and other other gallivoluminous, naceans. It It is is used garnish for chiefly as used chiefly as a a garnish for entres. entries. naceans. Method of of cleaning cleaning and and cooking cooking cocks' cocks' combs. combs. Prick Prick the the Method combs lightly lightly witha with a needle needle and put them and put them under under the cold tap, tap, the cold combs pressing them them with with the the fingers fingers to to dispel dispel the the blood. pressing Cover with with cold cold water water and and cook cook until until the the water water reaches reaches a a Cover (l l0'F.), when 40' or of 40 or 45C. 45'C. (110F.), when the the skin skin of of the the temperature of combs begins to to detach itself. itself. Drain Drain the the combs combs and and rub rub them them combs one by by one one in in a a cloth sprinkled sprinkled with with fine fine salt. salt. one put the combs Remove the the outer skin; put combs in in cold cold water, water, and Remove when they plunge them they are are white white plunge them into into a a boiling boiling White White when (see COURT-BOUILLON). court-bouillon (see COURT-BOUILLON). Cook Cook for for 35 court-bouillon minutes. minutes. Attelets of of cocks' cocks' combs. ATTELETs combs. A oE CRTES cREtss DE DE COQ coe -Attelets TTELETS DE Cook the the cocks' cocks' combs, combs, keeping keeping them possible them as as white white as as possible Cook and rather rather firm. firm. Drain Drain and and wipe wipe them, and thread them, and thread on and frilled edge the frilled edge uppermost. skewers, the Cocks'combs cnf;rns DE COQ coe EN EN A ATTEREAT.Tx Cocks' combs en attereaux. CRTES TTEREAUXCook the the cocks' combs in the combs in the manner described described above and Cook leave to cool. Drain, wipe, and marinate them in in oil oil and leave to cool. Drain, wipe, and marinate them lemon juice. lemon juice. Add Add chopped parsley. parsley. Drain, and impale them three at a a time on silver skewers. Drain, and Dip in egg and breadcrumbs and fry in clarified butter. Dip butter. Cocks'combs i la Villeroi. CRTES cnsrrs DE COQ coe EN Cocks' combs en atterearx attereaux ,c,rrEREaux cocks' combs in a ATTEREAUX A LA LA vrLLERor VILLEROI a White - Cook the cocks' (see COURT-BOUILLON), court-bouillon COURT-BOUILLON), drain court-bouillon (see drain and and dry them, Villeroi sauce (se, them, and cover with with Villeroi (see SAUCE). Leave Leave to cool cool on'a on' a gnd. grid. Cover Co ver the the combs with egg, egg, sprinkle with breadcrumbs, in clarified breadcrumbs, and fry in clarified butter. Cocks' Cocks' combs combs barquettes barquettes and and tartlets. tartlets. BAReuETTES BARQUETTES ET ET TARTELETTES sa me TARTELETTES DE DE cRBrEs CRTES DE DE coe COQ - These are made in the same way barquettes and and tartlets filled filled with various various salpicon salpicon way as as barquettes preparations. s-d' cuvr e.\ preparations. (See (See HORS-D'(EUVRE, HORS-D'UVRE, Hot hor hors-d'uvre.) Salpicon Salpicon of of cocks' combs i blanc. blanc. sAI,prcoN SALPICON oE DE cn6rss CRTES op DE coe BLANc BLANC - Cook the the cocks' cocks' combs combs in in the the manner manner COQ A described described above, above, and dice dice them. them. Heat for a few moments in wine oons Velouti or liqueur. ligueur. Add Add a a few few tablesp tablespoons Velout sauce sauce or or wine or Allemande Allemande sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). This This salpicon salpicon is is used as a filling filling for boucheds, bouches, barquettes, barquettes, tartlets, tartlets, or or other other similar similar preparations. preparations. Salpicon Salpicon of of cocks' combs combs i brun. brun. sAlprcoN SALPICON os DE cRETES CRTES oE DE coQ COQ A BRUN BRUN - Prepared Prepared in in the the same same way way as as Salpicon Salpicon of ofcocks' cocks' combs blanc, blanc, but but replace replace the the white white sauce sauce with with a a concenconcencombs d trated, trated, thickened thickened brown brown stock, stock, to to which which Madeira Madeira has has been been added added before before boiling boiling down. down. Strffed Stuffed cockst cocks' combs combs. cnErns C1:TES DE DE coe COQ r,arncres FARCIES - Choose Choose very very large combs and and cook cook them them n in White White court-bouillon court-bouillon (see (see large combs COURT-BOUILLOFQ, COURT-BOUILLON), keeping keeping them them rather rather firm. firm, Leave Leave to to cool, cool, drain drain and and wipe wipe them, them, and and slit slit them them down down the the centre centre of of the the fattest fattest part. part. Stuff Stuff each each with with a a small small ball bail of of forcemeat. forcemeat. Cover Cover the the combs combs n in Villeroi Villeroi sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Dip Dip in in egg, egg, sprinkle sprinkle with with breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, and and fry fry in in clarified clarified butter. butter.
(usually) alcoholic COCKTAIL COCKTAIL-- Drink Drink of of(usually) aJcoholic liquor liguor mixed mixed with with other other liquid liguid and and aromatic aromatic ingredients, ingredients, stirred stirred or or shaken shaken with with
246 246

CLOVISSE -- Bivalve Bivalve mollusc mollusc which which is is like pa lourde ; it like the the palourde; it is is CLOVISSE eaten fresh fresh like like oysters oysters or or cooked cooked like like mussels, mussels, and is served and is served eaten with or without lemon. or without lemon. with CLUPEIDAE. CLUPES cLUpEs -- Family Family of of seawater seawater and freshwater and freshwater CLUPEIDAE. fish which which include include shad, shad, herring, herring, sardine sardine and and anchovy. anchovy. fish CNICAUT -- Edible Edible wild wild cardoon, cardoon, with with a a taste taste of of cabbage. cabbage. CNICAUT COAGULATE. FIGER rrcnnTo thicken thicken or or congeal, congeal, when applied when applied COAGULATE. - To to fats. fats. to

COAL FISH. FISH. CHARBONNIER cHARBoNNTSR -- A A kind kind of of cod cod fished fished in in the COAL (see COD). North Sea. Sea. Prepared Prepared like like cod cod (see COD). North pLAr -- Ring (nonouru) DE COASTER. GALERIE cALERTE (BORDURE) DE PLAT Ring of of silver silver or or COASTER. silver-plate made made to to fit fit the the inner inner diameter diameter of of round round dishes. dishes. silver-plate This omamental ornamental circle circle is is set set in in the the weil well of the dish dish to of the to hold hold in in This position the garnishes arranged the garnishes arranged round round the the main main course. course. position
COAT. ENROBER ENRoBER To dip dip food food either either in in batter batter or or in in a a sauce sauce - To COAT. which masks masks it it entirely, entirely, such such as as chaud-froid chaud-froid sauce. sauce. which

Coca: Coca: a. Flower; a. Flower; b. b. Fruit Fruit

COCA COCA - Peruvian Peruvian shrub, shrub, the the leaves leaves of of which which are are chewed chewed by by the the Indians. Indians. Considered Considered an an economical economical food, food, its its properties properties are are due due to to the the effect effect produced produced by by its its alkaloid, alkaloid, cocaine, cocaine, which which is is as as stimulating stimulating as as tea tea or or coffee. coffee. It It is is used used as as an an infusion, infusion, as as a a wine, wine, as as an an elixir, elixir, and and also also used used as as an an ingredient ingredient of of certain certain cakes. cakes. COCHINEAL. COCHINEAL. cocsrNrr.I-E COCHENILLE - Insect Insect used used to to prepare prepare a a red red dye dye called called carmine. carmine. The The best-known best-known cochinial cochineal ls is that that of of nopal nopal (cochineal (cochineal cactus). cactus). The female insect is The female insect is used, used, collected collected after after she she is is fertilised fertilised and and before before the the complete complete development development of of the the eggs. eggs. Gray Gray cochineals cochineals are are the the most most sought sought after, after, but but there there are are also also red red and and black black varieties. varieties. They They are are put put in in the the oven oven on on metal metal sheets sheets for for a a few few moments, moments, or or plunged plunged into into boiling boiling water, water, and and dried. dried. Carmine Carmine is is used used for for colouring colouring in in cooking cooking and and cake-mixing. cake-mixing.

COCHLEARIA. COCHLEARlA. cocnrflnrl COCHLARIA - Type Type of of cruciferous cruciferous plant, plant, of of which which one one species, species, the the wild wild lorseradish horseradish (Cochliaria (Cochlaria de de
United United States. States.

Bretagne) particularly in Bretagne) grows grows on on the the sea sea coast, coast:particularly in Brittany, Brittany, in in England England and and in in lreland. Ireland. It It is is known known as as scurvy-grass scurvy-grass in in the the

COCKTAIL COCKTAIL

Cocktail
accssories accessories

(Christofle) ( Christofie)

Co cktail hr i s t ofle. Cock tail set (C (Christofie.

'Manhattar,'. Phot. 'Manhallan'. Kollar'l Kollar)

glasses. The origin of the ice ice and and served ice-cold in special glasses. Probably Anglo-American, it word 'cocktail' 'cocktail' is is uncertain. Probably which results might might refer refer to the shimmering which results from from mixing mixing to the coloured liqueurs, coloured liqueurs, or, to sorne or, according according to some etymologists, cocktail of the because the the primitive cocktail the Manhattan pioneers pioneers consisted of of cocks' tails, dipped in a concoction concoction of consisted of pimentos, drink.. with which they tickled their throats throats to incite them to drink coquetel The French French origin origin of of the word coque lei is, however, however. told by a who main in Bordeaux, maintain number of authors, who tain that it was in towards the end of the eighteenth century, that this kind of drink was invented. invented. The cocktail cocktail party is a of the The party is twentieth a phenomenon of the twentieth gatherings. ail or large gatherings. century, and is used for entertaining entertaining sm small On such an occasion more kinds of occasion one or more of cocktails are served well as as'straight'liquor, as weil 'straight' liquor, usually Scotch, Irish, Bourbon Bourbon or ('on the rocks') rocks') or with rye whisky, whisky, poured over ice ice cubes ('on glasses; or mixed crushed ice ('in a mist'), mist'), and served in short glasses; with water or carbonated water and served in long 'highball' glasses. Accompanying Accompanying these drinks are are hors-d'uvre hors-d'euvre that that these drinks range from from the can can be eaten while while holding the glass. These range simple to the elaborate. great many have been There are many cocktails which have been in There cocktails which are a a great vogue vogue from from time to time, time, either because of of their their exotic time to either because nature or names, but nature or because of their their fantastic fantastic names, but certain because of win the mixtures have stood the test of time and continue to win approval of connoisseurs. connoisseurs. These include the the following: (Scotch, rye, rye, or Dry Manhattan (Bronx) @ronx) - 3 parts whisky (Scotch. Bourbon), 1 I part dry dry French vermouth. vermouth. Garnish: Bourbon), Garnish: twist twist of lemon peel. (Dubonnet c9cktaiJ) Dubonnet (Dubonnet cocktail) Dubonnet Gin and Dubonnet - 2 parts Dubonnet I part gin, gin, combined with cracked and 1 ice, shaken hard in in a and cracked ice, cocktail shaker and and strained strained into cocktail glasses. (Scotch, rye rye or or Bourbon), Bourbon), 1 I Manhattan 3 parts whisky (Scotch, -3 part sweet Italian vermouth and partsweet Italian vermouth and a a dash dash of of Angostura Angostura bitters. Garnish (optional): a a maraschino cherry. bitters. parts gin, gin, 1 Martini (gin and vermouth)I part dry French Martini - 3 parts ad vermouth) garnished with an peel or a vermouth, garnished an olive, a a twist of lemon peel pearl on (in which pearl ion (in which case case the the drink drink is is called called a a Gibson) onion Gibson).. Proportions may vary; sorne Proportions some people prefer a straight straight Martini gin and which means means less less gin and more vermouth. which vermouth. A A sweet sweet Martini gin and would conta contain 5 parts gin and 1 I part sweet Italian vermouth, vermouth, would in 5 sweet ltalian garnished with a and is garnished peel, a twist of orange and orange peel. (Scotch, rye, Old-fashioned Whisky (Scotch, ry, or Old-fashioned or Bourbon), Bourbon), - Whisky juice, sugar. bitters or or cherry cherry juice, Angostura bitters sugar. Garnish: Garnish: cherries, cherries, pineapple wedges. A smalllump orange slices, lemon slices slices or pineapple small lump of sugar sugar moistened moistened with with the the Angostura Angostura bitters of bitters or or cherry cherry

juice 'old fashioned' an 'old jUlce is is placed placed in in an fashioned' glass. glass. Ice lce cubes cubes are

and agitating agitating the glass so that the bitters coat the inside. inside. The bitters are then poured away and gin added until the drink is pale pink. I part lime juice, 1 I part sugar syrup, syrup,4 DaiquiriRum Daiquiri - 1 4 parts juice. Add Bacardi and lime juice. rum. Blend Blend syrup syrup and Bacardi rum. Add rum rum and finely crushed ice. Shake hard and strain into ioto chilled glasses. (Scotch, rye, rye, or Bourbon), Bourbon), 4 parts whisky (Scotch, Whisky sour -4 juice, 1 juice, sweeteoing I part orange I part lemon juice, sweetening to tas taste. orange juice, 1 te. orange peel or lemon peel. Garnish: maraschino cherry, orange a selection selection of various various types types of cocktail, cocktail, The following is is a classified for easy reference: reference: classified Classic cocktails tin grapefruit, I bitter Classic l.e.D. i I tin - Adam I.C.D. Cinzano, f, dry dry Cinzano, Cinzano, i Cinzano, I gin. Alexandra. $ fresh cream, CrEme de Cacao, j Cognac. Cognac. cream, ] Crme Alexandra. Americano. t vermouth, t d.V bitter Campari, Campari, j $ sweet vermouth, ] bitter * dry vermouth, twist of lemon peel. vermouth, grenadine, i in without mixing: i Arc-en-ciel. Pour in I grenadine, I Marie Ricqlds, i Chartreuse. . Brizard,f V6ramint Ricqls, Brizard, i Vramint I green Chartreuse juice. grenadine, t Bacardi. ~ lemon juice. Bacardi. t grenadine, I lemon t rum, ~ velvet ] stout, t Champagne. Black velvel. I Champagne.

(3 tablespoons, scant t cup) whisky added and ] t dl. (3 whisky poured or, if over over them. One One or or more more of the garnishes garnishes are are added added or, if preferred, a piece of lemon peel is twisted over the drink. A 'muddler'(stirring glass. 'muddler' (stirring stick) is placed in each glass. Pink gin - Made Made by putting Angostura Angostura bitters in a glass

Cocktail shaker shaker Cocktail (Larousse) (Larousse)

247

COCOA COCOA
Bloody Mary. (6 oz.) Mary. 175 175 ml. ml. (6 oz.) tomato tomato juice, 1I dash dash lemon lemon Bloody juice, 22dashes dashes Worcester Worcester sauce, (2-3 oz.) sauce, 3-4 3-4 tab,lesPocJns tablespoons (2-3 oz.) juice, vodka, salt salt and pepper. and cayenne cayenne pepper. vodka, juice, if Cinzano grn,i* Orange Bronx. ~Sgin, Orange juice, Cinzano rosso, rosso, I Cinzano Cinzano Bronx. bianco. bianco. Canasta. t$Cinzano Cinzano bianco, bianco, * gin, * maraschino. Canasta. Champagne cocktail. glass Chlanlpalgne, cocktail.l Champagne, I dash AngosChampagne 1 glass tura bitters, bitters, twist twist of lemon peel, peel, 1 of lemon I sugar sugar lump. tura Champagne fiip. 1 glass Champagne, Champagne, I beaten egg yolk, egg yolk, Champagne "flip. 1 glass twist of peel. Sprinkle of lemon lemon peel. Sprinkle with grated nutmeg. with grated nutmeg. twist Cherry blossom. blossom. j Cognac, Cognac, I cherry cherry brandy, brandy, 1 I dash dash Cherry Curagao, 1 grenadine, 1 I dash dash grenadine, I dash lemon lemon juice. Curaao, Cinzano cobbler. cobbler. tt Cinzano Cinzano rosso, rosso, f, ,-"Ul Curagao, kirsch, Cinzano "' .. au. i f kirsch, I tablespoon tablespoon sugar, sugar, 1 I slice slice orange, orange, diced fresh fruit. 1 glass rum, Cuba libre. libre.l glass Coca-Cola. rum, 1 I glass Coca-Cola. Cuba 1 glass Cognac, ~ Cointreau, 1 I tablespoon tablespoon orange orange t Cognac, $ Cointreau, . Curnonsky. .Curnonsky. ~ juice. Julce. juice, 1 Daiquiri. ~ rum, t lemon juice, grenadine. I tablespoon tablespoon grenadine. Daiquiri. t rum, $ lemon juice of I orange. glass Dubonnet, Dubonnet fizz. I glass Dubonnet, juice orange. Top Top up Dubonnet up fizz. 1 with Champagne. Champagne. with Evming delight. glass rye delight. 1 I glass rye whiskey, whiskey, 1 I dash dash Curaao, Curagao, 1 I dash apricot brandy. brandy. juice of glass gin, Ginfizz.l gin, juice of 1 I lemon, 1 I tablespoon tablespoon sugar, sugar, 1 glass water. soda water. soda Half and andhalf.lpale ale, f stout. stout. Ralf half. pale ale, gitt, i sweet Maca.* gin, sweet Martini, $ Noilly Noilly Prat, Prat,Zdashes Maca. 2 dashes cassis, I slice slice orange. orange. 1 Manhattan. ~ Scotch whisky, whisky, $ Noilly Noilly Prat, 2 2 dashes Manhattan. f Scotch Angostura bitters, bitters, 2 2 dashes dashes Cointreau, Cointreau, 1 I twist twist of lemon, lemon, 1 I Angostura Dry.t cherry. Dry. white vermouth, vermouth, 1 gin, 1 I olive. cherry. ! white f gin, Mr. Callaghan. ~ dry Cinzano, Cinzano, $ apricot brandy, brandy, ~ MI'. Callaghan. ~ apricot 3 dry f Angostura bitters. bitters. rUI~,,'~u~la j Negroni. * gin, gin,l Cam Campari, pari, Cinzano rosso, twist of lemon peel. peel. Planter's. rum, i lemon juice, Planter 's. ~ juice, i orange juice. juice. f rum, f lemon I orange Porto flip. I glass port, I yolk, 1 I tablespoon sugar. Porto 1 glass 1 egg yolk, Sprinkle with grated grated nutmeg. Rose. 10 gin, t Noilly Prat, cherry Rocher, I 1 cherry. -:gin, fo INoilly -a Sherry sherry,2 dashes Curagao,3 Sherry cobbler. cobbler. 1 glass glass sherry, Curaao, 3 dashes orange slice lemon. orange juice, juice, 1 1 slice slice orange, orange, I 1 slice Side lemon juice, Side car.{ car. i-Iemon juice, } Cognac, Cognac, } white white Curagao. Curaao. Sputnik.I Sputnik. j vodka, vodka, ! Cinzano, I 1 cocktail onion. onion. { dry Cinzano, Tom Tom Collins. Collins. I 1 glass glass gin, I 1 tablespoon sugar, sugar, I 1 tablespoon lemon lemon juice, soda-water. soda-water. Coffee-based Cott~e-baSf~d cocktails cocktails - Roman Roman holiday (for (for 4 people). people). 100 f Al 100 g. g. (a (4 oz., oz., lt It cups) cups) very very finely finely ground coffee, coffee,3 dl. $ (i pint, pint, l| H cups) water, water, 2 2 to to 5 teaspoonJ teaspoons icing sugar, according according to to taste, tas te, 3 to to 4 4 ice ice cubes cu bes per per glass. Make Make the the coffee coffee tn in a a bain-marue. Crush Crush the the ice ice cubes cubes and and fill fill the the glasses glasses three-quarters three-quarters full full with with them. them. Sprinkle with with the the sugar. sugar. Pour Pour the the boiling boiling coffee coffee over. over. Romans Romans top top this this drink drink with with a a generous generous swirl swirl of of sweetened sweetened Chantilly Chantilly cream cream flavoured flavoured with with cinnamon. cinnamon. Bourbon Bourbon coffee. coffee. Black Black coffee, coffee, ice, ice, Bourbon Bourbon whiskey. whiskey. Fill Fill the the glasses glasses with with ice ice and and pour pour a a liqueur liqueur glass glass of of Bourbon Bourbon whiskey whiskey in in each. each. Top Top up up with with black black coffee. coffee. If If you you like like sugar sugar or or cream, cream, or or both, both, add add these these and and stir. stir. If If the the coffee coffee is is preprechilled is required. chilled less less iee ice is Mllk-based Milk-based cocktails - Tango.l cup milk, 2 ice cubes, 2 tablespoons fruit syrup, syrup, (grenadine, cassis, raspberry, tables po ons fruit strawberry, strawberry, pineapple pineapple or or orange). orange). Shake vigorously. The cocktail cocktail must must be be frothy. frothy. BrCsilien. Brsilien. Evaporated Evaporated milk milk diluted diluted with with $ j- water, water, 2 2 teate aspoons spoons soluble soluble coffee, coffee, { teaspoon teaspoon cinnamon, cinnamon, sugar sugar to to taste, taste, ice ice cubes. cubes. Prepare Prepare asfot as for Nigrillonne Ngrillonne (see (seebelow), below), the thechocolate chocolatebeing being replaced repJaced by by coffee. coffee. NCgrillonne. Ngrillonne. Evaporated Evaporated milk milk diluted diluted with with $ ! water, water, I1

tablespoon tablespoon chocolate powder, f, teaspoon chocolate powder, teaspoon vanilla vanilla or cinnaor cinnabes. te, ice mon, sugar to icecu to tas taste, cubes. Blend the the chocolate, chocolate, vanilla vanilla and and sugar. sugar. Add Add the the milk milk diluted diluted with with the the water water and pour into and pour into the the mixer mixer or or shaker. shaker. Shake Shake until until frothy. frothy. Serve Serve with with ice. ice. Tea-based Tea-based cocktails cocktails -- Casbah. Casbah. This This Aigerian Algerian drink drink is is an an excellent quencher. Drunk excellent thirst thirst quencher. Drunk hot, hot, even very hot, even very hot, during during the the hottest hottest season, season, it it is is delightfully delightfully refreshing. refreshing. 1 I tablespoon green tea, tablespoon green tea, JI tablespoon tablespoon mint mint tea, 100 to tea, 100 to (4 to g. (4 150 I 50 g. to 5 5 oz., I cup) ( l! pints) oz., 1 cup) Joaf loaf sugar, sugar, ol litre pints) water. fitre (l-jwater. Mix green and Mix the the green and mint mint tea tea together together and and leave leave them them to to infuse infuse for for sorne some time. time. Crush Crush the the sugar and add add gradually to sugar and to the the tea, tea, until until it it all all dissolves. dissolves. The infusion must The infusion must be very very strong strong and and sweet, sweet, almost almost syrup-like syruplike in in consistency. consistency. Serve very hot Serve very hot with with a a fresh fresh leaf leaf of of mint mint in in each each glass. This This beverage beverage can can be be entirely prepared from powdered from powdered mint, mint, in in which which case case honey is substituted for for sugar. (for 4 Tea punch (for 4 people). 2 2 teaspoons tea, tea, rind of I lemon, lemon, water, 3 tablespoons water, tablespoons sugar, (6 tablespoons, sugar, 1 I dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, scant scant 1cup) * cup) rum, ice rum, bes. i@ cu cubes. Make the the tea, but add add the lemon rind before pouring in tea, but in the the boiling boiling water. water. Infuse for quarter of an an hour. hour. Add the the sugar. sugar. Leave Leave the get quite cold; the tea tea to to get cold; it placed in it can can be be placed in the the refrigerator. refrigerator. To To serve, place a serve, place a large large cube cube of sugar sugar in in each each glass, pour in the rum and, glass, and, lastly, the cold cold tea. This This cocktail is often drunk drunk through a a straw straw stuck through a on. a slice of lem lemon. Vitamin-based cocktails The following following cocktails cocktails have - The been been specially devised by the dietician Gayelord Hauser. Cocabacrem. 1 I glass milk, 1 I tablespoon tablespoon yeast, 1 I tablespoon honey, I tablespoon UHI!""'IJ'-/VLI powdered milk, 1 banana. I sliced banana. Cocabana. I glass pineapple juice, Cocabana. juice, 1 milk, 1 I tablespoon milk, I tablespoon tablespoon honey, 1 banana. I mashed banana. juice, iCocabricot. 1 apricotjuice, cup skimmed I large glass apricot skimmed milk, f cup I l tablespoon honey. honey, 1 tablespoon lemon Cocktomate. I 1 glass glass tomato juice, I juice, juice, I 1 tablespoon tablespoon chopped chopped parsley. Complete Complete cocktail. cocktail. I J glass pineapple pioeapple juice, juice,l I tablespoon crushed walnuts, walnuts, I 1 tablespoon yeast, I J tablespoon honey, honey, l0 10 crushed wild strawberries. apple juice. juice. Maraicher. M araicher. $ celery juice, $ carrot juice, $ apple . milk, I shake. I 1 glass orange juice, 2 tablespoons Milk shake. milk, honey. tablespoon honey.

COCOA (Beans). (Reans). cAcAoCACAO - Seeds Seeds contained contained in in a a pod which which is is COCOA the fruit fruit of of the the cacao cacao tree. tree. The The pod is is gatherod gathered when ripe, ripe, and and the The beans, beans, covered covered with fleshy pulp, are are fermented; fermented; a a split. The
process process which destroys destroys the the germ, and enables enables them them to to be be shelled. They They are are then then dried dried in silos silos or or in in the the open open air. air. The The shelled. highest quality quality cocoa cocoa comes cornes from from Venezuela, Venezuela, and and GuateGuatehighest mala; mala; it it has has a a thick, thick, ochrg-coloured ochre-coloured shell shell and and a a purple-blue purple-blue bean. Ecuador Ecuador cocoa cocoa beans beans are are bigger, with with a a brown brown shell shell bean. and and a a brown, brown, almost almost black, black, bean. bean. Brazil varieties varieties of of cocoa, cocoa, including including the the Maragnan, Maragnan, are are flatter flatter in in shape, shape, with with a a purplepurpleblue bean. bean. Guiana Guiana cocoa cocoa beans beans are are small, small, with with a a grey grey shell shell blue and and brown brown bean. bean. Different Different characteristics characteristics make make it it possible possible to to distinguish dis,tinguish the cocoa cocoa of of Jamaica, Jamaica, Martinique, Martinique, Guadeloupe, Guadeloupe, etc. etc. The the should have have a a clean c1ean smell smell and and should should not not have have anv any beans should beans wormholes, wormhoJes, grit, grit, or or other other foreign foreign matter. matter. Columbus Columbus was, was, according according to tolegend, legend, the the first first European European to to cocoa in in use, use, but but the the specimens specimens he he took took back back to to Spain Spain see cocoa see were were not not considered considered of of any any value. value. Cortes Corts found found it it widely widely grown grown and and used used in in Mexico Mexico in in 1519. 1519. The The Aztecs Aztecs grew grew it it for for many many generations, generations, and and their their Emperor Emperor Montezuma, Montezuma, and and his his court, court, are are reputd reputed to to have have consumed consumed fifty fifty large largejars jars a a day. day. There Therewas wasno nosugar at at that thattime, time,and and the thedrink drinkwas wasflavoured flavoured with vanilla vanilla and drunk cold. cold. with 248 248

Seafood:oysters, oysters,mussels, mussels,cockles, cockles.shrimps, shrimps,sea seaurchins urchinsand andlobsters (Prunier.Phot' Phot. Nicolas Nicolas) lobsters (Prnnrer. Seafood: )

COCOTTE COCOTTE
In Europe, Europe, the the Spaniards Spaniards imitated imitated the Aztecs' method method of the Aztecs' of In preparing 'chocolate', 'chocolate', flavouring flavouring it it with chillies and and other with chillies other preparing hot spices spices and and making making it it into into a a soup-like soupJike concoction. concoction. hot Chocolate became a fashionable fashionable drink became a drink in in France. France. The The Chocolate first record record of of its its use in England England was use in was at at Oxford Oxford in in 1650. 1650. Seven Seven first years later later a a Frenchman Frenchman opened opened a a cocoa cocoa house house in in BishopsBishopsyears gate Street, Street, London. London. Under payable on Charles II II the Under Charles the dut duty on gate y payable chocolate in in its per gallon. gallon. Later, its finished finished state state was was 8 8 shillings shillings per Later, chocolate someone thought thought of of adding adding sugar sugar to chocolate. Pepys, to chocolate. Pepys, in in his his someone diary, after after his his first first taste 'very taste of of'jucalette' described it it as as 'very diary, 'juca/ette' described good'. good'.
is necessary is necessary to to release release the aroma. After the aroma. After roasting, roasting, the beans the beans pulverised and presented in are pulverised are and presented in various various forms. forms. Cocoa Cocoa sheDs. shells. COQUES DE CACAO cAcAo -- The The membranous membranous shells coeuEs DE shells of of husked husked cocoa cocoa beans prepare a pleasant beans can can be be used used to to prepare a pleasant beverage, beverage, resembling possesses fortifying resembling chocolate, chocolate, which which possesses fortifying properties owing properties owing to vitamin content. to the the vitamin content. Allow Allow 1 I tablespoon tablespoon per cup. cocoa shells cocoa shells per cup.

Coconut

pods Cocoa pods

Chocolate houses houses were were fashionable fashionable in Chocolate in the the eighteenth century, each each having century, having a a literary, literary, political political or or gambling gambling gaming-house in St James's notorious gaming-house clientele. White's, White's, the notorious Street, began as a chocolate house. Chocolate Chocolate was was first first prepared prepared by hand. Dr Joseph Fry of Bristol, Bristol, having having bought bought the the patent patent rights rights from from Walter Churchman, Churchman, who who had had been been making chocolate since since 1728, was was the the first first to to manufacture manufacture it it on a a big scale in in England, England, introducing introducing a steam engine for grinding grinding the cocoa beans in 1795. 1795. Dr Dr James Baker founded the first chocolate factory in America America in in 1780. 1780. Both businesses businesses still exist. exist. All or drinking drinking chocolate. It It is not Ali this this was was still still cocoa, or definitely definitely known known when chocolate was first sold for eating; eating; probably probably not not until until Victoria's reign. Cadbury's Cadbury's price price list, as as late of eating eating chocolate. late as as 1842, 1842, shows only only one kind of Cocoa POUDRE DE DE cAcAo CACAO SoLUBLE SOLUBlE - Cocoa with with Cocoa powder. powder. pouDRE reduced which it reduced fat content content treated treated with with potassium potassium (of (ofwhich it must must not not contain contain more more than 3.5 35 g. g. per 100 100 g.). It It is is soluble. soluble. Cocoa Cocoa contains various various alkaloids, alkaloids, the the most most important important of of which which are are theobromine theobromine and caffeine. It It also contains con tains about about 17 17 per per cent cent nitrogenous nitrogenous matter, matter, 25.5 255 per per cent cent fats fats and and 38 38 per per cent cent carbohydrates, carbohydrates, all ail of of which which have have important important food food value value and and a a stimulating stimulating action. It It is is mainly mainly taken taken in in the the form form of of chocolate. chocolate. Preparation Preparation of of cocoa cocoa - To prepare prepare an an excellent excellent breakfast breakfast beverage, beverage, cocoa cocoa can can be he used used instead instead of of slab slab chocolate. chocolate. Boiling Boiling water water and and milk milk is is poured poured on on cocoa cocoa powder powder and and mixed mixed with with sugar sugar according according to to taste. tas te. A A smooth smooth paste paste can can be be made made by by mixing mixing cocoa cocoa powder powder with with sweetened sweetened condensed condensed milk milk and and then then adding adding boiling boiling water. water. Roasted CACAO ronnfrn TORRFI - Cocoa Cocoa beans beans have have a a very very Roasted cocoa. cocoa. cAcAo light light smell smell and and a a bitter bitter taste. tas te. Roasting, Roasting, as as in in the the case case of ofcoffee, coffee,
249 249
When Wben planning planning a a kitchen, kitcben, for for convenience convenience the tbecooking cooking hob bobis isoften often set set into into the tbe workingsurface working surface (Marc (Marc Held. Held. Phot. Phal. Larousse) Larousse)

COCONUT. NOIX Nox DE COCONUT. DE COCO coco -- Fruit Fruit of of the coconut tree, the coconut palm tree belonging to to the the palm family. The tree family. The sap sap is is used make used to to make fermented drinks drinks called called palm tree wines. Gathered before the tains a the fruit is is ripe, ripe, the the coconut con contains a kind of milk or cream. When ripe, ripe, the nut has a a hollow hollow centre and adheres to and to the the shell. It is is used shell. It used mainly mainly for cake-making cake-making and confectionery. Dried, and and and with with the the fibrous fibrous outer outer skin removed, coconut is is called called copra, and and is is used used for making an industrial oil for soap manufacture. Purified and and deodorised, coconut Purified coconut oil, oil, which which has has a a firm consistency at consistency at ordinary ordinary temperatures, is called temperatures, is called coconut butter. There are are a a number of commercial products under . this name. Itis It is fatty, almost almost without without watercontent, water content, odourless, odourless, tasteless, and very digestible. It is used tasteless, used in certain diets when when butter cannot be assimilated, and and especially butter cannot be in vegetarian especially in cookery. LAIT DE DE COCO Used to to moisten Coconut milk. milk. larr coco moisten curry - Used sauces. Mix Mix 400 g. (14 o2.,4 oz., 4 cups) finely grated coconut with grated coconut 3 dl. (* (t pint, l{ I-!- cups) warm milk. Strain through through muslin.
ICAQUE COCO-PLUM. rcneun -

tree. It is eaten fresh or preserved. preserved.

Fruit of the the tropical - Fruit

coco-plum coco-plum

COCOSE COCOSE - Butter made from coconut.

especially especially meat, meat, fowl and game. Cocottes Cocottes are made in earthenware, fireproof porcelain porcelain or glass, tinned copper, nickel, aluminium, aluminiwn, stainless steel, cast iron Iron or silver. Dishes Dishes cooked in these utensils, utensils, in which which they are are usually served, are are described described as en en cocotte cocotte or en en casserole. casserole.

COCOTTE COCOTTE - Utensil in which which certain certain foods foods are cooked,

Cocottes Cocottes

COD coD
COD. cABILLAUD, CABILLAUD, cABLIALJD CABLlAUD -Largefish - Large fish of of the the gentx genus Gadus, Gadus, COD. found in in North North Atlantic Atlantic waters. waters. It It has has an an elongated elongated body body found with soft soft grey grey scales, scales, and and yellow yellow and and brown brown spots spots on on its its back back with and flanks, flanks, which which are are white white like like its its belly. belly. A A cod cod can can weigh weigh as as and much much as as 36 36 kg. kg. (801b.). (80 lb.). In In France France fresh fresh cod cod is is called called cabillaud cabillaud and salt salt cod cod is is called called morue. morue. The The flesh flesh is is white white and and flaky. flaky. and smoked, is is excellent. excellent. 1ts roe, roe, smoked, Its

AU AU vIN VIN BLANC BLANC AVEc AVEC cARNITUREs GARNITURF..S DTvERSES DIVERSES - All Ali methods methods of of preparation preparation given given for for brill, brill, sole, sole, whiting whiting and and

nnllsf BRAIS

Cod Cod braised braised in in white white wine wine with witb variom various garnishes. garnishes. cABILLAUD CABILLA UD

Cod

different ways. In addition Fresh cod is prepared in many different

in steaks or or in this fish, fish, whole whole or below, this to the recipes given below, (q.v.), for brill brill (q.v.), fillets, prepared in any way way suitable for can be be prepared fillets, can
any other large fish. turbot (q.v.), haddock (q.v.) and any for cod: are particularly suitable for The recipes are following recipes The following Bercy, femme, normande, portugaise, portugaise, provengale. provenale. Bercy, bonne femme, Cut the the cod Cod A L'ANGLAISE L'ANctlIse l'anglajse. CABILLAUD cABILLAUD I l'anglaise. Cod - Cut (l| inches) from the of the middle of into slices inches) thick, thick, taken taken from cm. (Ii3 cm. slices 3 pepper and and and pepper preference. Season with salt the Season with salt and for preference. fish for the fish with cover with with oil, oil, coyer dredge in flour. in beaten egg mixed with flour. Dip in until both both in clarified butter until white clarified butter and cook in white breadcrumbs, and Maitre half-melted Matre sides golden. Serve with half-melted Serve topped topped with are golden. sides are (see BUTTER, Compound d'htel Compound butters). d'hbtel butter (see BoUILLI Boiled (hot) with cABILLALJD BOUILLI sauces. CABILLAUD with various various sauces. Boiled cod cod (hot) in CourtCourt(CHAUD) (culuo) -- Poach in steaks, steaks, in or in whole, or cod whole, Poach the the cod into the the fish into Put the fish III (see COURT-BOUILLON). bouillon COURT-BOUILLOI9. Put bouillonlll(see heat reduce the the heat then reduce liquid when the boil boil then is cold, cold, bring bring to to the it is when it further. it to and poach without allowing to boil boil further. allowing it leave to and leave to poach parsley and and boiled boiled garnish with Drain fresh parsley with fresh fish and and garnish Drain the the fish for recommended for potatoes. sauces recommended of the the sauces potatos. Serve with one one of Serve with Fines herbes, herbes, Shrimp, Fines boiled Butter, Caper, Caper, Shrimp, Anchovy, Butter, fish: Anchovy, boiled fish: (see SAUCE, White SAUCE, White Hollandaise, Ravigote, etc. etc. (see Lobster, Ravigote, Hollandaise, Lobster, sauces). sauces). BoUILLI Id) with BoUed (cotd) cABILLAUD BOUILLI various sauces. saucesi. CABILLAUD with various cod (co Boiled cod preceding recipe, recipe, (FROID) in the (rnoro) -- Cook as described described in the preceding fish as the fish Cook the cooking the cooking but that the done, so so that it is is two-thirds two-thirds done, until it only until but only process in the the court-bouillon. court-bouillon. as it it cools cools in completed as process can can be be completed garnish with with fresh fresh Drain and garnish in a a cloth, cloth, and it is is cold, cold, dry dry in when it Drain when quartered hard-boiled parsley hard-boiled and quartered hearts and lettuce hearts parsley or with lettuce or with for cold cold eggs. recommended for of the the sauces sauces recommended with one one of Serve with eggs. Serve Tartare, fish: Rimoulade, Tartare, Ravigote, Rmoulade, Mayonnaise, Ravigote, fish: Gribiche, Gribiche, Mayonnaise, (see SAUCE, Green, sauces). Cold sauces). SAUCE, Cold Vincent (see Green, Vincent Cod souLA.NcERE -A LA rl BOULANGRE cABILLAuo boulang0re. CABILLAUD h boulangre. Cod n la pepper, sprinkle with Season sprinkle with and pepper, piece of with salt salt and of cod cod with a piece Season a melted fireproof in aa fireproof oven in in the lightly in the oyen and brown brown lightly melted butter butter and dish. potatoes and onions. and sliced sliced onions. with sliced sliced potatoes Surround with dish. Surround
Season powdered thyme pepper, powdered thyme potatoes with and pepper, with salt salt and the potatoes Season the and inthe Bake in the melted butter. butter. Bake little melted with aalittle and sprnkle and bay sprinkle with bay and oyen, parsley and and chopped parsley with chopped Sprinkle with frequently. Sprinkle oven, basting bastingfrequently. serve it was cooked. in which which it wascooked. dish in in the the dish serve in Cod AU VIN vIN sRAtsEAU cnsnrauoBRAIS white wine. wine. CABILLAUD in white braised in Cod braised BLANC white forBrill Brill in inwhite recipefor in the therecipe asdescribed described in BLANc -- Proceed Proceed as wine (see BRILL). BRILL). wine(see
250 250

other other braised braised and and garnished garnished fish fish can can be be applied applied to to cod. cod. Cod with with mefted meIted butter. butter. cABILLALID CABILLAUD AI AI BEURRE BEURRE FoNDU FONDU Cook Cook the the fish fish whole whole or or in in pieces pieces in in Court-bouillon Court-bouillon III III (see (see COURT-BOUILLON). COURT-BOUILLON). Drain. Drain. Serve Serve with with melted melted butter butter and and boiled boiled potatoes. potatoes. Cold Cold cod cod with with variors various saucs. sauces. cABILLAUD CABILLAUD FRoID FROID - Poach Poach cod cod in in salted water water and and leave leave to to cool cool in in the the cooking cooking liquid' liquid. Tartare, Serve with Drain, Drain, and and garnish garnish with with parsley. parsley. Serve with Tartare, sauoe recommended Mayonnaise, Vinaigrette Vinaigrette or or any any other other sauce recommended Cold as as an an accompaniment accompaniment for for cold cold fish fish (see (see SAUCE, SAUCE, Cold are cold bass garnishes indicated sauces). All sauces). Ali the the garnishes indicated for for cold bass (q.v.) (q.v.) are cod. suitable sui table for for cod. Bone A LA r,c. CRME cniMr cABILLAUD 6ruvB cream. CABILLAUD Cod cooked - Bone Cod cooked in in cream. TUv 5-cm. cut into and eut fillets and Skin the a a medium-sized medium-sized cod. cod. Skin the fiUets into 5-cm. pepper. (2-inch) with salt salt and and pepper. Season with (2-inch) pieces. pieces. Season in butter butter lightly in (5 oz., chopped onion onion lightly g. (5 cups) chopped oz.,l| 150 g. Fry 150 Fry li cups) pieces Fry the the pieces fish. Fry add the colour, and and add the fish. it 10 to colom, allowing it without without allowing ({ pint, white pint, seant cup) dry dry white 2 dl. dl. (t scant cup) with 2 Moisten with all sides. on ail sides. Moisten on (f, pint, pint, seant 2 scant 2 4 dl. dl. Ci Add 4 for several several minutes. Simmer for wine. Simmer minutes. Add (se SAUCE). with the the slowly, with Simmer slowly, SAUCE). Simmer sauce (see Creatn sauce of Cream cups) of pan, until cooked. until cooked. lid on on the pan, lid Butter a a cRATIN cnirr'c GRATIN gratin CABILLAUD cABILLAUD CRME cod gratin. Cream cod - Butter Cream (see potatoes (see Duchess potatoes pipe a of Duchess a high high border border of and pipe dish and dish a few few tablespoons tablespoons Put a edges. Put the edges. round the POTATOES) POT A TOES) round (see SAUCE) Fill up up to to two-thirds two-thirds in the dish. dish. Fill SAUCE) in Mornay sauce (see in butter. heated in butter. cod, heated with slices of cod, slices of border with of the height height of the border grated cheese, cheese, brush brush with grated sprinkle with sauce, sprinkle Mornay sauce, Cover with with Mornay Coyer and melted butter butter and with melted egg sprinkle sprinkle with with beaten egg, the border with the oven. moderate oyen. in a a moderate brown in of Season slices slices of A LA I-l CRME cnirvm -- Season cABILLAUD la crme. cr6me. CABILLAUD i la Cod Cod half-cooked, When half-cooked, pepper. Fry Fry in in butter. butter. When and pepper. cod with with salt salt and cod lid with the the lid cooking with Finish cooking fresh cream. cream. Finish with thick thick fresh moisten with moisten 2 or or 3 3 cream, add add 2 down the the cream, fish, boil pan. Remove boil down Remove the the fish, on the the pan. on fish. pour over over the the fish. it and and pour to it fresh butter butter to tablespoons fresh tablespoons u. DIEPolepA LA DE CABILLAUD cABILLAUo TRoNgoNs DE i la dieppoise. TRONONS la dieppoise. Cod Cod polsE -- Prepare fish (scant pint, pint,2t cups) concentrated concentrated fish 5 dl. dl. (seant Prepare 5 POISE 2i cups) (scant litre (seant (see FUMET). open tI litre and open Clean, shell shell and FUMET). Clean, stock (see stock (2 oz.) shrimps' oz.) shelled shelled shrimps' 50 g. add 50 pint" 2i and add mussels and 2i cups) cups) mussels e. (2 pint, (To ob allow tails allow shrimps' tails amount of of shelled shelled shrimps' this amount obtain tails. (To tails. tain this (5 oz.) g. (5 150 g. oz.) shrimps.) shrimps.) 150 (l oz., and g. (1 butter and tablespoons) butter 25 g. o2.,2 roux with with 25 a roux Make a Make 2 tablespoons) and 1 I dl. fish fumet and dl. (l oz., the fishfumet with the flour. Dilute Dilute with g. (1 cup) flOUL oz., } 25 g. 25 I cup) in which liquor in which the the (6 tablespoons, cup) of of the the liquor scant !1 cup) tablespoons, seant (6 pinch with aa pin of Season with strained. Season well strained. were cooked, cooked, weil mussels were mussels ch of boil, stirring stirring grated nutmeg. Bring to to the the boil, nutmeg. Bring pepper and little grated and a a little pepper garniand and 1 I tablespoon tablespoon bouquet garni add aa small small bouquet all the the time, time, add ail gently for minutes' for 20 20 minutes. peel. Simmer Simmer gently mushroom peel. mushroom fillets. cod fillets. of the thecod sides of incisions on both sides on both few small small incisions Make aa few Make (l oz., g. (1 and 25 25g. o2.,2 in white wine and cook in white wine and cook with salt salt and Season with Season 2 pieces. Bring the boil, boil, transfer transfer Bring to to the cut in in pieces. butter eut tablespoons) butter tablespoons) 15to for 15 to heat for in moderate moderate heat cooking in continue cooking and continue oven, and to the the oyen, to frequently. l8 minutes, minutes, basting basting frequently. 18 in liquor in Add the the liquor into another another saucepan. saucepan. Add the sauce sauce into Strain the Strain few diluted with withaafew and2 eggyolks cooked and fish was wascooked which the the fish which 2 egg yolks diluted minutes over over fewminutes for aa few Stirfor stock.Stir mushroom stock. tablespoons mushroom tablespoons heat, from the theheat, (2oz., remove g.(2 cup) butter, butter, rem add 50 50g. oz.,iI cup) heat,add heat, ove from allowto to Do not not allow tails.Do shrimps' tails. andthe theshrimps' musselsand add the themussels and andadd boil. boil. with andsurround surround with long dishand onaalongdish fishon arrange the thefish Toserve, To serve, arrange (Phil6as Gilbert.) garnish. (Philas Gilbert.) andgarnish. sauceand the thesauce into fishinto thefish Cutthe oucrfn6 - - Cut cABILLAUoDUGLR Dugl6r6.CABILLAUD Cod Cod Duglr. (seeBASS). BASS). Dugliri(see forBass ,BassDuglr asdescribed described for Proceed as steaks. steaks. Proceed and filletsand codfillets Skin the thecod DECABILLAUD cABILLAUp- - Skin FILETs DE fillets. FILETS Cod Cod flUets. for givenfor forcod, cod,or orfor recipesgiven ofthe pieces. Follow Followone oneof therecipes into pieces. eut cutinto (q.v.). (q.v.) or (q.v.),sole bass(q.v.). orbass sole(q.v.) whiting whiting(q.v.),

COD

Filleting Nicolas) Filleting cod cod (Ledoyen. (Ledoyen. Phot. Nicolas)

Cod t la flamande. flamande. cABTLLAL'D CABILLAUD A r-e LA rL,quA,NDE FLAMANDE - Season Season cod slices slices with with salt salt and and freshly ground ground pepper, pepper, and place place in a

buttered buttered baking tin tin sprinkled with with chopped chopped shallots shallots and chopped parsley. Cover Cover with dry white white wine and put a slice of peeled peeled lemon on on each each piece piece of cod. cod. Bring to to the the boil. Finish cooking cooking in the the oven, oven, allowing about l2 12 minutes. Drain Drain the fish fish and arrange on a long long dish. Bring the pan pan juices juices to the the boil, add I 1 tablespoon tablespoon butter, pour the sauce sauce over over the the fish, and sprinkle sprinkle with chopped parsley. parsley.

Fried Fried cod cod

Fried Fried cod. cod. cABTLLAUD CABILLAUD FRrr FRIT - Cut Cut the the fish fish into into 2l-cm. 2-i-cm. (l-inch) (l-inch) thick thick slices. Dip Dip in in cold cold boiled boiled milk. milk. Dredge Dredge in in flour flour and and deep-|ry deep-fry in in sizzling fat. fat. Drain, dry dry in a a cloth, c1oth, and and sprinkle with salt. Garnish with fried parsley parsley and quarters quarters of of lemon. lemon. Fried breadcrumbs. cABTLLAUD CABILLAUD FRrr FRIT reNf PAN - Dip Fried cod cod in breadcrumbs. slices slices of of cod cod in in egg egg and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and fry fry as as above. above. Drain, Drain, season, season, garnish garnish with with fried fried parsley parsley and and lemon, Jemon, and serve serve with with Maitre Matre d'hitel d'htel butter butter (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). Fried Fried cod cod Orly. Orly. clnnLAUD CABILLAUD FRrr FRIT oRLy ORLY - Cook Cook cod cod fillets fillets as as

in in Whiting Whiting Orly Orly (see (see WHITING). WHITING).

Cod Cod au au gratin. gratin. cABTLLAUD CABILLAUD AU AU GRATTN GRATIN - Prepare Prepare and and cook cook cod cod steaks steaks or or fillets fillets like like Brill BrUI au au gratin gratin (see (see BRILL). BRILL). Gritled Grilled cod. cod. cnnllr,ruo CABILLAUD cnrlrf GRILL - Season Season cod cod steaks steaks with with salt salt and and pepper, pepper, sprinkle sprinkle with with melted melted butter butter or or oil, oil, and and cook cook under under a a moderate moderate grill. grill. Put Put a a slice slice of of peeled peeled lemon lemon on on each each

steak steak and and garnish garnish with with fresh fresh parsley. parsley. Serve Serve with with Maitre Matre d'hbtel butter or or one one of of the the sauces sauces recommended recommended for for grilled grilled d'htel butter fish SAUCE; BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). butters). fish (see (see SAUCE; Codi Cod la la hollandaise. hollandaise. cABTLLAUD CABILLAUD A r-.q, LA Hor-rnNonrsr HOLLANDAISE - Cook Cook a a piece piece of of cod cod in in Court-bouillon Court-bouillon III III (see (see COURT-BOUILCOURT-BOUILLON), LON), together together with with good, good, mealy mealy potatoes. potatoes. Drain Drain the the fish fish
251 251

and surround surround with the potatoes, which which have been dried dried off in the saucepan. Serve butter. Serve with melted butter. This dish should not be confused confused with cod cod with with hollandaise hollandaise saltce, sauce, where where the fish is cooked in a court-bouillon and served with ho llandaise sauce. hollandaise sauce. Cod n I'indienne. l'indienne. DARNEs DARNES DE DE cABrLLAr,o CABILLAUD A I'INUENNE L'INDIENNE Season Season cod steaks with salt salt and pepper pepper and put them into a pan on a foundation of 50 g. g. (2 oz., * 1- cup) chopped onions lightly lightly fried fried in in butter,2 butter, 2 peeled, peeJed, seeded and chopped chopped tomatoes, tomatoes, a pinch of of grated garlic, and I 1 tablespoon chopped parsley. parsley. Sprinkle with with 2 teaspoons teaspoons curry powder powder and and 25 25 g. g. (l (1 oz., 2 tablespoons) butter cut eut in very small pieces. Moisten Moisten with 1+ 1t dl. (+ (t pint, t ~ cup) dry white wine. Bring Bring to the boil, then then bake bake in the oven oven for l0 10 minutes. Baste Baste with thick thick fresh cream cream and and finish cooking, basting frequently. frequently. Serve with Rice d I'indienne l'indienne (see RICE). Cod steaks steaks can can also also be be cooked cooked in in a a concentrated fish Cod and pepper, pepper, and cover with stock. Drain, season with salt and (see SAUCE) to to which the the concentrated pan pan Curry sauce (see juices have have been been added. added. Serve with with Rice h I'indienne l'indienne (see RrcE). RICE). la meuniire. meunire. cABTLLAUD CABILLAUD A rn LA MeuNrins MEUNIRE - Slice the Cod i proceed as as described described for Bass d Ia la meunibre meunire (see (see cod and proceed BASS). BASS). CABILLAUD MoRNAy MORNAY - Cook thin slices or Mornay. cABILLAUD Cod Mornay. tittle white wine. wine. Place them them in an fillets of cod in a very little dish, cover cover with with Mornay sauce (see (see SAUCE), SAUCE), ovenproof dish, sprinkle with grated cheese cheese and melted butter, butter, and brown brown in sprinkle the oven oven or or under the grill. grill. the Mornay in shells. coeuILLEs COQUILLES DE cABTLLAUD CABILLAUD MoRNAy MORNAYCod Mornay Cod This is is useful usefuJ for for using using up up left-overs. left-overs. Pour Pour Mornay Mornay sauce sauce (see This into ovenproof shells. shells. Fill with slices of hot cod cod SA UCE) into SAUCE) with Mornal, Mornay sauce. sauce. Sprinkle SprinkJe with grated cheese cheese and cover with melted butter, butter, and and brown brown in in the the oven oven or or under the the grill. grill. and melted Roast cod. cod. casII-I-Luo CABILLAUD ndrl RTI - Use cod whole or or cut eut in large large Roast pieces. with salt and pepper, sprinkle sprinkle with with oil and a pieces. Season with dash of of lemon lemon juice, juice, and leave to to steep in in this this seasoning seasoning for dash hour. Drain Drain the the fish, fish, put put on on a spit and secure with with string. 1 hour. I Brush with with melted melted butter and and roast before before a a brisk brisk fire, Brush frequently basting with with butter. butter. frequently basting Remove the the fish from the the spit. Dilute Dilute the pan pan juices juices with with Remove and serve serve with with the the fish. fish. white wine wine and white The cod may may also also be be roasted roasted in in the the oven, oven, placed placed on on a grid grid The prevent its its lying Iying in in the the pan pan juices. juices. to prevent to la florentine. florentine. cABILLALJD CABILLAUD EN EN coeulI-I-rs COQUILLES l ra LA Cod in in shells shells A Cod FLORENTINE - Proceed Proceed as as described described in the the recipe recipe for Cod Cod FLoRENTINE shells lining tining the the bottom of the the shells shel1s with with 1 1 Mornay in shells Mornay tablespoon leaf leaf spinach, spinach, blanched blanched and simmered simmered in in butter. butter. tablespoon Cod in in shells sbeUs au au gratin. gratin. cABTLLAUD CABILLAUD EN EN coeuILLEs COQUILLES AU AU Cod GRATIN - Put Put a a border border of of sliced sliced mushrooms mushrooms round round the the edges edges cRATIN of the the shells. shells. Pour Pour in in Mornay Mornay sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). Fill with with of

coD COD
small pieces of of cod, put a cooked mushroom mushroom in the middle middle and cover rith Mornay sauce. Sprinkle with wilh grated breadwith Mornay crumbs and and melted melted butter, butter, and brown brown under under the the grill. Sprinkle with chopped parsley just just before serving. serving. To with chopped keep keep the fish fish from from spilling spilling out of the the shells, sllells, a a border border of Duchess Duchess potatoes potolOes (see (sec POTATOES) POTATOES) can be piped round the
edges.

and cod fillets fillets and and cut cut into into pieces. peces. Roll RoU these thcse into into and soak soak cod scrolls water, as as indicated ndicatOO in in the the serolls and and tie them. them. Poach in water,
introduction introduction to this this section. secton. Drain the cod coo scrolls, untie them and garnish with fresh fresh parsley. Serve with boiled Btarde. boiled potatoes potatoes and a sauce: sauce: Bdtarde, Caper, Cream, Muswrd, Cream, Curry, Curry, Parsley, Parsley. Hollandaise, Ho/landai.se. Mustard, Ravigote, RavgoLe, Saint-Malo, Saint-Malo, etc. (see (sa: SAUCE). SAUCE). Bouillabaisse Bouillabaisse of of salt saJt cod. cod, nounrABArss BOUILLABAISSE DE DE MoRUE MORUE - Cook 100 100 g. g. (4 oz., oz., I 1 cup) chopped onion anion and and 50 g. (2 oz., * t cup) chopped in oil oil without without browning. When When these these vegetables vegetables chopped leek leek in are 2 skinned, seeded, seeded, chopped tomatoes tomatoes and a are tender, tender, add 2 crushed c10ve of of garlic. garlic. Cook Cook rapidly rapidly for for 5 5 minutes. minutes. Moisten Moisten crushed clove with I 1 dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seant, cup) white white wine, wine, and 5 5 dl. dl. + cup) (scant 2t cups) water or fish fish fumet jumel (q.v.), and and add a (seant pint" pint, 2* generous into this generous pinch pinch of saffron. saffron. Bring to to the the boil. boiL Put Putinto this stock 750 75 g. g. (l* (If lb.) lb.) fillet fillet of of salt cod cut eut into into pieces. pieces. Pour Pour in in 3 3 tablespoons tablespoons (scant (scant f t pint) pint) oil. oil. Season with with a pinch pjnch of freshly freshly ground ground pepper. pepper. Cover Cover the the saucepan and boil boil fast fast for for 25 minutes. minutes. At At the the last last moment moment add add I 1 tablespoon tablespoon chopped parsley. parsley. Serve bouillabaisse with with slices slices of of toasted toasted bread, bread, or, if if Serve the the bouillabaisse preferred, the can be he served servOO in in a tureen tureen rvith with slices slices of of the soup can French bread bread in in it, il, and and the the fish fish served separately. separately. Bouillabaisse Boui11abaisse of salt cod cod i la la m6nagdre. mnagre. BourLLABArsE BOUlLLABA1SE DE DE MoRUE MORUE A rA LA rvr6llA,cirns mNAGRE - Cook Cook 100 100 g. g. (4 oz., I 1 cup) finely fmely chopped onion 50 g. (2 oz, oz., * ! cup) cup) chopped leek leek in in I 1 dl. dl. onion and and 50 (6 tablespoons, tableS1JOClnS, scant] seant! cup) cup) oil. oil. They They should should not not brown. brown. Add Add 2 crushed garlic garlie cloves cloves and moisten moisten with with I 1 litre litre (If, (Ij pints, generous generous quart) quart) water. water. Season Season with with salt salt and and pepper, pepper, add a a pinch of saffron saflron and a a bouquet bouquet garni, garni, and and bring bring to to the the boil. boil. pinch of Add (II oz.) thickly thickly sliced sliced potatoes potatoe:s and and boil bail for for 12 12 Add 300 300 g, (ll minutes. minutes. Now add 750 750 g. g. (l* (Ii lb.) lb.) salt cod cod cut cut into ioto pieces. pieces. Pour Pour 3 3 tablespoons tablespoons (scant (seant * cup) cup) oil oil into inlo the Ihe pan. pan. Cover, Cover, and and boil bouquet garni garni and, and add I1 boil fast. fast. Before Befo serving, serving, remove remove the the bouquet tablespoon tablespoon chopped parsley. parsley. Serve Serve the the bouillabaisse with with slices slices of of toasted 10astOO bread, bread, rubbed rubbed with soakOO in in a a little liUle of of the the cooking cooking stock. stock. with garlic garlic and and soaked Brandade salt cod. cod. nuNnADE BRANDADE DE DE MoRTJE MORUE - Wash Wash and and Brandade of of saft I ke. soak soakl kg. Qt (2* lb.) lb.) salt cod coo and and cut into into pieces. pieces. Poach Poach in in water 8 minutes. minutes. Drain, Drain,. remove remove skin skin and and bones, bones, and and water for for 8 flake Heat 2 2 dl. dl. (+ (1 pint, pint, scant cup) Clip) olive olive oil oil in in a a ftake the the flesh. flesh. Heat heavy, heavy, flat-bottomed flat-bottomed saucepan saucepan until unti! it il begins begins to to smoke. smoke. Put Put in in the the cod cod and and add add a aa a small small crushed crushed clove cl ove of of garlic. garlc. Work Work the the mixture is mixture on on the the stove stove with with a a hard hard wooden wooden spoon spoon until until it it is reduced reducOO to to a a smooth smooth paste. Turn Tum the the heat heat very very low low and and keep keep on al a a time, time, 5 5 dl. dl. on working working the the brandade, adding, adding, a a little little at (scant 2* cups) cups) oil. oiL Still Slill stirring, stirring, add 2l 2~ dl. dl. (scant (seant } 1(seant pint" pint, 2{ pint, pint, generous generous cup) cup) boiled boilOO milk milk or or fresh fresh cream, cream, pouring pouring in in a a little little at at a a time. time. Season Season with with salt salt and and white white pepper. When brandade is is ready, ready, it it should should have have the appearance appearance When the the brandade of ofa a white whi te paste, pas le, very very smooth, smooth, with with the the consistency consistency of ofmashed mashed potatoes. potatoes. Garnish of bread bread fried fried in in butter butter or or oil, oil, or or Garnish with witb triangles triangles of with with cro0tes crotes of of French French bread, fried fried in in oil. ou. Brandade Brandade of ofsalt salt cod cod I la la Nantua. BRANDADE BRANDADE nr DE uonuE MORUE A r-.1 LA NANTUANANTUA - Prepare the the brandade brandade as as indicated indicared above, above, moistenmoistening ng it il with with fresh cream. cream. Serve Serve in in a a bowl, bowl, alternating alternating the the brandade brandade with with layers layers of of a a ragoitt of of crayfish crayfish tails. tails. Surround Surround with with strips of of truffie trume tossed lossOO in butter, butter, and and garnish gamish with with slices slices of of bread frid in in butter. butter. Brandade Brandade of of salt salt cod cod widr witll tnffes. truHIes. BRANDADE BRANDADE DE DE MoRUE MORUE Aux AUX TRUFFES TRUFFES - Make Make the the brandade brandade as as indicated indicated above. above. Add Add diced dicOO truffies truffies tossed tossed in in butter. bUller. Cover Cover with with strips of of truffie truffle also in butter. butter. Surround Surround with with slices slis of of bread fried friOO in in also tossed tossed in butter. butter. Sah Salt cod cod with with brown brown butter. butter. MoRUE MORl AU AU BEURRE BEURRE Non NOIR - Put Put the and the trimmed, trimmed, poached poached and and drained drained cod cod on on a a serving serving dish dish and

Boiled Boiled salt salt cod cod with wim variou various sauces. sauces. MoRUE MORUE nounrm BOU1LL - Wash

Cod in shells sbells i la Nantua. Nantua, cABTLLAUD CABILLAUD EN EN coeurI.I.rs COQU1LLES A I-l LA NANTUANANTUA - Proceed Proceed as as described described in in the the recipesfor recipes for Cod Cod Mornay Mornay in in shells shells replacing replacing Mornay Mornay sauce sauce by by Nantua Nan/ua sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). of truffie, truffie, heated heated in SA UCE). Before Before serving serving put put a large large slice of butter, butter, into jnto each shell. shell. Cod Cod in white white wine. wine. cABILLAUD CABILLAUD AU AU vrN VIN BLANc BLANC - Using Using cod slices Of fillets, fil lets, proceed proceed as as for for Brill Bril! in white white wine wine see BRILL). BRILL). slices or

SALT SALT COD. COD. laonus MORUE - Wash Wash thoroughly under under a a running running tap, cut imo pieces pieces and soak soak for 24 24 to 36 hours in cold water. water. eut into Drain Drain the the cod, put put it in in a a pan and and cover cover the the fish fish with cold cold water. Heat, and at the the first signs of bubbling, bubbling, skim the the water. Heat, water 15 to to waler and and lower lower the the heat. heaL Cover Co ver the the pan, and and poach poach for for 15 l8 18 minutes, minutes, according according to the the size of the the pieces. The water water must must not not boil. boil. Drain Drain well weIl and and prepare prepare according to ta the the recipe recpe chosen. chosen. i I'anglaise Salt lNcrltss Salt cod codA l'anglaise I. 1. uonun MORUE A r L'ANGLAISE - Poach Poach the the cod cod in water. water. Drain. Drain. Garnish Garnish with with fresh fresh parsley and and serve with with parsnips in salt water water and drained, and and hard-boiled hard-boiled parsnips boiled boiled in egg egg sauce. sauce. Salt SaIt cod coo i I'anglaise J'anglaise II. n. rraonue MORUE A r'.Luclilrsn L'ANGLAISE - Wash Wash and and soak soak fillets flllets of of salt salt cod cod and and cut eut into into thin thin slices, slices, gently gently flattenflaltening fry in in butter, bUller, and and ing them. them. Dip Dip in in egg and and breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, fry cover cover with with partly partly melted Maitre Matre d'hitel d'htel butter butter (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). bUllers). Serve Serve with wilh boiled boiled potatoes. potaloes. Salt Salt cod cod iIl la la bamboche. bamboche. rrronuE MORUE A ra LA n.lMsocHE BAMBOCHE - Cut CUl washd washed and and soaked soaked fillets /lIlets of of cod cod into inlO thin thin slices. slices. Dip Dip in in milk, milk, then in boiling boiling oil. oiL theu flour. flour. Twist Twist into into spirals spi raIs and and deep-fiy deep-fry in Drain, Drain, dry dry in in a a cloth. clotho Fill Fill a a bowl bowl with with a a macddoine macdoine (q.v.) (q.v.) of of vegetables blended blended with with butter butter or or cream, cream, and and arrange arrange the the fillets on on top. top. Salt Salt cod cod i la la b6chamel. ~chamel. rraonue MORUE A ra LA efcHltrtrr BCHAMEL - Poach Poach the the fish cod hot. hot. Spread it it in in fish in in water. water. Trim Trm and and flake, t'lake, keeping keeping the the cod layers layers in in a a dish dish and and pour pour over over each each layer layer a a few few tablespoons tab,lespoc:ms Bichamel Bchamel sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE), SAUCE), with with butter butter and and fresh fresh cream cream added. added. Salt Salt cod cod i la la benedictine. bndictine. rvronue MORUE A rn LA nfN6orcrrNE BENDlCT1NE - Wash Wash and (21 lb.) lb.) cod. cod. Poach, Poach, drain, drain, remove remove skin skin and and and soak soak I 1 kg. Qt bone, bone, and and flake the the fish. fish. Dry Dry in in the the oven oven for for a a few few minutes. minutes. Mix in a a mortar mortar with with 500 500 g. g. (generous (generous I1lb.) lb.) boiled boiled potatoes potatoes Mix in which drainOO and and dried dried in in the the oven. oven. Work Work this this which have have been been drained mixture il absorbs absorbs 2 2dl. dl. (+ (l pint pint, scant seant cup) cup) oil oil and and 3 3 dl. dL mixture so so that thal it (~ pinq pint, lf li cups) cups) boiled boiled milk, milk, taking care care to ta add add these thesc G ingredienm ingredients alternately, alternately, a a little little at al a a time. lime. When the the mixture mixture is is smooth smooth and and moist, moist, put put it it in in a a buttered butterOO baking bakng dish, dish, smooth smooth the on melted mell ed butter, butter, and and brown brown in in the the oven. oven. the surface, pour on Brandade of salt cod is often oflen served served under under the the cod with with trufres truffles is name of salt salt cod cod d la la bdnidictine. bndictine. This This dish dish is is a a kind kind of of name of brandade brandade ofpotatoes, of potatoes, browned brownOO in in the the oven. oven. Sah Salt cod cod I la la Benoitorl Belloiton. MoRUE MORUE A rA LA nsNonoN BENOITON - Brown Brown very lightly in oil oil and and butter butter 150 \50 g. g. (5 (5 oz, oz., lf 1-!- cups) cups) finely finely sliced lightly in onions. on ions. Sprinkle Sprinkle with wilh 25 25 g. g. (l (1 oz.,* oz., t cup) cup) flour ROUf and and cook cook for for a a few few seconds. seconds. Moisten Moisten with wilh 6 6 dl. dl. (l (1 pint, pint, 2| 2J cups) cups) red red wine wine and and l+ <t pint, ti cup) cup) fish fish fumet (q.v.). (q.v.). Season Season with with salt salt and and 1! dl. dl. (* pepper. of garlic garlic and and mix. mix. Cook Cook for for 15 15 pepper. Add a a crushed crushed clove of minutes. mmutes. Add Add 5 5 sliced sliced boiled boiled potatoes, potatoes, and and I l kg. kg. (2| (2! lb.) lb.) flaked ftaked boiled boiled cod. cod. Tip Tip the the contents contents of of the the pan pan into inlO a a buttered butlered baking baking dish dish in in one one movement movement (without (without mixing) mixing) and and smooth smooth the the surface. surface. Sprinkle pouron on meltod meltOO butter butterand and brown brown SprinkJewith with breadcrumbs, breadcrum bs, pour in in the the oven. oven.
2s2 252

COD

( Rober t Carrier) Brandade of cod (Robert C arrier) of salt salt cod

253

COD
minute or two in the oven, oven. Pour over over it a few drops dry for a minute vinegar or lemon juice. juice, Sprinkle parsley, Sprinkle with with chopped parsley, of vinegar and desired, Pour sizzling brown brov.'Y1 butter over the and capers, if desired. (2* lb,) lb.) fish. cod, allowing2Z1 allowing 225 g. g, (8 oz" 1 cup) butter butter for I 1 kg. kg, (2t fish, codl oz., I The cod can as follows: folJows: Put the cooked can also be prepared as fish a serving dish, dish, pour vinegar vinegar over over it it and and sprinklc fish on sprinkle on a of parsley capers on the top. top, Fry sprigs of parsley in brown butter and dish, add add to the dish. MoRUE AU BEURRE Salt cod with wilh noisette butter. MORUE BEURRE NoISETTE NOISETrE-, over it it and Poach and trim the the cod, juiee over and Poach and trim cod, squeeze squeeze lemon juice sprinkle parsley, Add Add a few tablespoons tablespoons a few with chopped chopped parsley. sprinkle with is as Noiselle butter bUller (butter heated heated in in a a frying frying pan pan until unti] it it is Noisette a hazelnut). hazelnut), brown as a MoRUE A cnirvm Salt crme. MORUE m L'" CRME - Proceed Proceed as as for i la crdme. Salt cod Sail sauce enriched eniched with bichamel, using bchamel bichamel sauce la bchamel, Salt cod Cl d la crea m, cream. gratin. MORUE IA CRME MoRUE A LA cnilrrs lu i la la crme crime au au gratin. Salt AU Salt cod cod as for cod, and and proceed as GRATIN - Trim, poach poach and cRATIN and flake the cod, gratin. Crcam Cream cod cod gratin, Trim, poach, rl CROLE cnfor.s Salt la crole. MORL" A LA poach, i la cr6ole. MoRUE Salt cod - Trim, a buttered drain the cod, a dome of it in a flake the cod. Make a drain and and flake gratindish on a bed ofa of a tomato gratindish tomato fondue prepared prepared as follows: (5 oz" finely chopped chopped on onions 150 g. oz, l| cups) finely Cook 150 Cook g, (5 l.l cups) ions in in a are very tender. and butter until Skin 4 oil and until they are tender. Skin mixture of oil remove seeds and and crush, crush. Add these these to the onions, tomatoes, remove with 4 together with 4 skinned, dieed peppers, Season diced sweel sweet pppers. Season with garlic. Put pepper, and flavour with a little chopped garlic, salt and pepper, a few few slices of tomato a tomato sauted halved sweet peppers, oil, halved saut6d in oil, little saut6ed in oil, on top of the cod, and pour skinned and sautcd skinned pour a Iittle in the of the hot oil minutes, it. Sake Bake in oven for a a few few minutes. the hot oil over il. the oven juice over the fish, lemon juiee Before serving, a little Iemon fish, and serving, squeeze squeeze a sprinkle with chopped parsley, chopped parsley. cnoeurrrEs DE MoRUE Croquettes DE MORUE Croquettes of salt cod. CROQUETllOS - Poach salt cod, cod, leave to cool, di and make in dice into very small small pieces, and croquettes. Add cooked mushrooms as other croquettes, the same the same way as and and diced diced truffies, if desired, desired. (See CROQUETTE,) CROQUETTE.) i l'indienne. I'indienne. MORUE MoRUE AU AU CURRlE, cuRRrE, Curried Curried salt salt cod, co{ called called DITE A L'INDIENNE poach, drain and ftake L'INDIENTc - Trim, poach, flake the cod, cod. Put (scant pint, pint,Zf, (ser, SAUCE), 5 dL dl. (seant cups) Curry Curry sauce sauce (see il 2i cups) it in in 5 SAUCE). gently. Serve with Riec Rice I'indienne (see RICE), RICE). Mix gently, d l'indienne nN ESCABCHE ssclnEcm -- Wash and Salt MORUE EN m escabche. escabCche. MoRUE Wash and Sah cod en fillets of cod cod and and eut cut into into thin Proceed as as for for soak thin slices, slices. Proceed soak fillets (see HORS-D'UVRE, Anchovies d la Ia grecque (see HORS-D'(EUVRE, Cold horsd'uvre), d'euvre\. Filleb of salt cod FILETs DE DE MoRUE Fillets MORUE ORLY cod Orly. Orly. FILETS oRLy Cut the - Cut raw in a Steep for raw cod cod into thin for 1 I hour thin slices, slices. Steep hour in a marinade of juice and chopped parsley, parsley. Dip in light balter oil,lemon oil, lemon Jui batter and parsley and deep-fry. Garnish with fried Tomato fried parsley deep-fry, and serve with with Tomalo sauce (see SAUCE), SAUCE). balb of salt I'am6ricaine. CROQUETTES Fish balls i l'amricaine. cnoquETTEs DE MORUE MoRUE saft cod potato mixture A r',{Mrntc,qlw -- Bind equal parts of Duchess L'AMRICAINE Duchess pO/a1O flaked cod few table(see POTATOES) POTATOES) and and cooked, ftaked cod with a a few (see SAUCE), well and and mix. spoons Bichamel Bchamel sauce (see mix, SAUCE). Season Season weil cool. Divide into small parts and roll into balls on a Leave to cooL floured board. Dip in in egg egg and and breadcrumbs and and deep-fry. f10ured board, Dip (see serve with with TomalO Tomato sauce (see Garnish with fried parsley and serve SAUCE), SAUCE). rvronue FRITE cod into thin saft cod. MORUE Cut a a fillet of cod Fried salt - Cut in boiled milk, milk, drain, and f10ur flour lightly, lightly. Deep-fry slices, drain, and slices. Dip in fine saiL in oiL Drain, dry dry in in a a cloth cloth and and season with fine salt. in oil. Drain, season with parsley and lemon, fried parsley lemon. Garnish with fricd and f1ake flake the uomrp EN EN FRITOT FRrror -- Poach Poach and Fritot of salt cod. MORUE juice, pepper and in a a marinade marinade of cod, cod. Steep Steep in of oil, oil, lemon juiee, parsley. Dip in a a light batter and and deep-fry in boiling chopped parsley, chopped parsley and and serve Tomato sauce oil. Garnish with with fried fried parsley with TomalO oiL serve with (see SAUCE), SAUCE). la hongroise. hongroise. MORUE uonuE A LA rn HONGROISE Hobrcnotsn -- Cook Cook Salt Salt cod cod il i la paprika in chopped onions seasoned with paprika in butter until chopped untii very seasoned with
254 254

1 kg. kg, (2+ (2t lb.) lb,) cod into pieces pieees and lay them on top tender. Cut I of Moisten of half half the onions. onions, Cover Cover with with the remaining remaining onions. onions, Moisten (f pint,3 g. (5 oz,) with dl. (t oz.) with l| li dl. pint, 3 cup) dry white wine. wine, Add Add 150 g, diced mushrooms. Cover the and cook mushrooms, Cover the pan and cook for 6 minutes. minutes, cream. Cover and Moisten with Moisten with a few tablespoons tablespoons thick thick fresh cream, l0 minutes. simmer for 10 minutes, Salt cod i la languedocienne. Salt languedocicllJlc. MoRUE MORL" A ra LA raNcuEDocrENNE LANGUEDOCIENNE I kg.Qi kg, (2t lb.) lb,) desalted cod in pieces and cook in water. - Cut 1 Drain, and put into a a ragofit of potatoes prepared as Drain, and put it it into ragol of follows: Cut 1 I kg. kg, (2+ (2t lb.) lb,) potatoes into quarters and brown lightly in Sprinkle with oil. Sprinkle in oiL with I 1 tablespoon flour and and fry for a few a crushed the pan all ail the the time, Add a crushed few seconds, shaking the time. Add garlic. Moisten clove of garEc, of the fish cooking Moisten with wi th a little of cooking stock garni. and and add a bouquet garni, and bake in the oven oven for 25 minutes, then Cover the dish and remove Sprinkle with chopped parsley. the bouquet garni. rem ove the garni, Sprinkle with chopped parsley, ragoitt, pour oil over it Place the pieces cod on top of the ragot, it pieees of cod and finish cooking in the oven for 5 to 6 minutes. minutes, Monus A cod i la Salt cod Salt la lyonnaise lyonnaise (Car0me's (Carme's recipe). recipe). MORUE rl LA cod. Dry in a saucepan LvoNNAISELYONNAISE Boil, Boil, drain and flake the cod, oven. over low heat. heat, or in the oven, a gentle Dice three large on and cook onions Diee ions and cook in in butter over a gentlc golden. Brown the cod heat cod in same pan. Season in the the same pan, Season heat until until golden, grated nutmeg and lemon with butter, butter, grated lem on juice, juice, and serve.' serve.' d'hOtel. MORUE MoRUE A Salt cod i il la maitre d'htel. r-4, LA udrne MATRE o'u6tEL D'HTELPoach and flake the cod, cod. Put in a Poach and a dish dish with alternate layers cover with with partly of sliced sliced boiled of boiled potatoes, potatoes, and and cover partly melted Maitre d'h6tel bUller BUTTER, Compound !JUliers), butters). butter (see BUTTER, Malre d'htel mayonnaise. MAyoNNATsE Sali MAYONNAISE DE MoRUE-Trim, MORU!: Trim, poach Salt cod mayollJlaise. and flake cod. Prepare as Cold salmon the sa same and f1ake the the cod, Prepare in the me way as mayonnaise (see SALMON), mayonnaise SALMON). MoRUE A meuniire. MORUE Salt cod i Salt la meunire. ra LA IusuNIins MEUNIRE Sliee raw - Slice Arrange on a long dish, fillets of of cod, cod. Flour and fry in butter. Arrange chopped parsley. sprinkle with lemon sprinkle Icmon juice juiee and chopped parsley, Pour sizzling butter over the fish. fish, MoRUE MlREILLE MIRETLLE cod fillets fillets into Cut cod Salt cod cod Mireille. Salt Mireille. MORUE - Cut pieces and brown quickly in equal size, pieces of equal Flour, and in smokingsize. Flour, g. afondue as follows: Cook 50 g, hot oiL fondue of tomatoes as oil. Prepare a (2 chopped on and 4 skinned. oz, 1 cup) chopped onion skinned, seeded seeded and (2 oz" ion with with 4 * cup) garlic in clove of chopped tomatoes and and 1 of choppcd chopped garlic choppcd in oil. ] clove and 1 teaspoon with salt saffron. Cook and pepper and Season \Vith salt and Season teaspoon saffron, all the liquid has evaporated, Moisten with 3 dl. until almost ail evaporated. Moisten (| pint, lf wine. Cook for for 10 l0 minutes. 0: I~ cups) white wine, minutes, (see PILAF), PILAF). Cover with a border of Rice pilaf pitaJ(see Serve with a top and sprinkle sprinkle sauce. Arrange black olives on top the the tomato tomato sauce, parsley. with chbpped with chbpped parsley, MoRIIE MORNAY MoRNAy Mornay. MORUE Salt Sah cod Momay. - Trim, poach and drain a layer of Mornay pieces of cod, an ovenware ovenware dish dish on a pieces cod. Put in an more of Sprinkle with and cover cover with with more of the sauce. Sprinkle sauce, and sauce, the sauce, in the grated cheese, add and brown add small pieces butter, and brown in gratcd pieees of butter, oven. oven, I'occitane. MORUE MoRUE A L'OCCITANE r'occrrlr.IE - Heat 5 tablecod i l'occitane. Salt cod (6 tablespoons) oil with an ovenwith 1 I clove of garlic in an spoons (6 (l* lb,) g. (H lb.) cooked, dish. Add the following in layers: 750 g, ware dish, 4 sliced eggs, 4 sliced boiled flaked salt cod, 3 3 sliced sliced hard-boiled salt cod, f1aked hard-boilcd eggs, I large peeled and and diced diced tomato which has been which has potatoes, 1 I tablespoon capers, capers. oil,24 olives, 1 cooked in in oil, 24 black olives, with sliced eggs, black Decorate the sliced hard-boiled dish with the dish Decorate hard-boiled eggs, black lemon. Pour on a a few tablespoons slices of peeled peeled lemon, olives olives and sliees gently. ground pepper and heat heat gently, with freshly freshly ground oil, season season with oil, pepper and chopped parsley. Garnish with chopped Garoish parsley, p.nnIsIENNE - Trim, MoRUE A LA ra PARISIENNE ir la Salt cod la parisienne. MORUE cod il poach of cod, cod. Cover with diced hard-boiled and drain drain sliees slices of poach and hard-boiled juice lemon juiee over and chopped chopped parsley. eggs, capers and parsley, Squeeze lemon pour on a few few tablespoons on a tablespoons brown fish, and and pour the fish, the brown butter in (* cup) cup) fresh fresh hreadcrumbs have been 4 tablespoons breadcrumbs have which which 4 tablespoons H fried. fried, pARMENTIER - Cook and ftake flake MoRUE PARMENTIER cod Parmentier. MORUE Sail Salt cod -

COFFEE COFFEE
the cod cod and and put put it it in in a a buttered buttered ovenproof ovenproof dish. Cover Coyer with the a of potatoes. potatoes. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with grated grated cheese, cheese, pour pour a light light pur6e pure of melted butter butter and and brown brown in in the the oven. oyen. on melted Salt cod cod ir la la Provengale. Provenale. uoRue MORUE A ra LA pnovsNqAlE PROVENALE - Make Make Salt 5 cups) tomato tomato fondue fondue with oil, flavoured flavoured 5 dl. dl. (scant (seant pint,2l pint, 2i cups) with kg. (2+ (2i lb.) lb .) flaked cod poached in with garlic. garlic. Add Add to to it it I 1 kg. water. water. Add Add salt salt and and pepper pepper and and sprinkle with with chopped parsley. few minutes. minutes. parsley. Cover Coyer the the dish dish and simmer simmer for for a few Salt cod cod en rayte. MoRIJ'E MOR (JE EN EN RAyrE RA YTE - Brown 100 g. (4 oz., oz ., Salt I in oil. Add Add I 1 tablespoon tablespoon flour. Cook Cook 1 cup) cup) chopped onion in stirring. Moisten Moisten with ] t litre (scant (seant pint. pint, for a few seconds, stirring. 2f 2i cups) red red wine and the the same same quantity boiling water. Mix, Mix, season with pepper pepper and a very very little little salt. Add 2 cloves cloyes garlic, garlic, season I 1 bouquet garni and I 1 tablespoon tomato tomato pur6e. pure. Bring Bring to the boil . boil. Deep-fry 750 g. (l+ (Ii lb.) floured, desalted cod fillets fiJlets in oil. Deep-fry Add 2 teaspoons teaspoons capers, cover Coyer the the pan, and simmer simmer for a few Add minutes. Roogail of of salt salt cod and tomatoes tomatoes - See ROUGAIL. Rougail cod salad. salad. sera.DE SALADE DE MoRUE MORUE - Mix slices of boiled Salt cod chopped onion, potatoes cod. Add potatoes and and cooked, cooked, flaked flaked cod. Add chopped chopped sprinkle with season with with oil oil and and vinegar, vinegar, and and sprinkle with chopped season parsley, chervil and tarragon. tarragon. parsley, gratin. MORUE fptNenos eux PINARDS Salt MoRUE AUX Salt cod cod with with spinach spinach au au gratin. (generous 1 I cRlrIwEr GRATINE - Poach and flake the cod. Wash 500 g. (generous lb.) salted water, in boiling salted lb.) spinach, for 5 minutes in spinach, parboil for ($ pint, drain and chop. pint, seant chop. Heat Heat 2 dl. (t scant cup) oil until it begins to smoke. Put the spinach Season with spinach into the smoking oil. Season crushed garlic. salt, pepper, pepper, a a touch touch of nutmeg and and a a little crushed Add the flaked cod few tablespoons Bdchamel sauce tablespoons Bchamel Add cod and a a few (see SAUCE). put it in in a a fireproof dish. (see SAUCE). Mix Mix together and and put Shape Shape into a dome and and smooth. Sprinkle with breadcrumbs, pour on a little oil and brown in the Oyen. oven.

Salt cod cod with with tomatoes ir la la marseillaise - MoRUE MORUE AUX AUX roMArEs TOMATES A r^r. LA MLRssrLLArsE MARSEILLAISE - Cut Cut the cod cod into into pieces, pieces, flour, flour, and and deep-fry in in oil. Simmer Simmer for for l0 10 minutes minutes in in Tomatofondue Tomato fondue
(see (see

TOMATO) TOMATO) strongly strongly flavoured with with garlic. garlic. Vol-au-vent of of salt salt cod. vol-nu-vENr VOL-AU-VENT DE DE MoRUE MORUE - Fill Fil! flaky flaky can also pastry also Brandade of of salt cod. cod. Vol-au-vent Vol-au-vent can pastry cases cases with Brandade be and be filled filled with with flaked ftaked salt cod mixed mixed with with sliced sliced truffies and mushrooms, mushrooms, and and blended blended with with either a a meatless meatless velouti velout sauce or a cream sauce. sauce.
The codfish type. of the codfish COD-BURBOT COD-BURBOT type. The - Freshwater fish of and coney coney fish. as burbot, eel-pout and cod-burbot is also known as fish. (q.v.). In In for burbot The method of cooking is is the same as as for burbot (q.v.). in the found in the cusk,is calledy'eshwater cusk, U.S.A. is found U.S.A. the burbot, also calledfreshwater northern Great Lakes and smaller smaller lakes lakes and and rivers rivers across across the the northern country.. latitude of the country

The coffee coffee cnr6lsn cer6, CAFIER COFFEE, COFFEE SHRUB. CAF, - The It is is a a large, large, Sudan. It in Abyssinia and the Sudan. and the shrub originated originated in leaves. evergreen bush with dark shiny Ieaves. The dried. The and dried. The cherry-like fruit is is soaked, depulped and parchment-like husk and and seed is then polished to remove the parchment-like seed outer filament. grains contain contain 6 6'15 coffee grains Balland, the the coffee to Balland, 15 to According to per cent I l'40 cent to 11 3'98 to l5'30 per cent nitrogenous substances, 398 1530 40 per (q.v.). 0'70 to 2 per cent caffeine (q.v.). fatty matter and 070 products and Coffee contains alkaloids, volatile aromatic products phenolic series. It series. It the phenolic various substances belonging to to the substances belonging various muscle. cardiac muscle. system and the cardiac stimulates the central nervous system stimulates first man man to perhaps legend, legend, tells us that that the the first tells us or perhaps History, or in the lived in Aden, who who lived the beMufti of of Aden, drink coffee coffee was was the the Mufti drink According to another tradition, century. According ginning of the ninth century. or Mosa certain certain Mullah, or of coffee coffee to a we owe the discovery of we it is is said, said, called Chadely Chadely or or Scyadly, whose name, it lem priest, called

(Nicolas) pot and grinder (Nico/as) Coffee Coffee pol andgrinde(

255 255

COFFEE

Special Special grinder grinder and and cup for for Turkish

cntree(Delius) coffee (Def;us)

is is still still venerated venerated in in the the Middle Middle East. East. This holy holy man, man, upon finding finding himself himself often often overcome overcome by by sleep in the the middle middle of of his his prayers, prayers, attributed attributed his his drowsiness drowsiness to to the the half-heartedness half-heartedness of his his devotions, devotions, and and his his conscience conscience tormented tormented him. him. The The Prophet Prophet, touched touched by by his his sorrow, ld led him him to encounter encounter a herdsman, herdsman, who who told told him hirn that that each each time time his his goats goats at ate the the berries berries of of a a certain certain shrub, shrub, they they would wou Id remain remain awake, awake, jumpjumping ing and and gambolling gambolling all all night. night. The The Mullah Mullah wished wished to to see see this this extraordinary extraordinary plan! plant, and and the the
herdsman herdsman showed showed him him a a pretty pretty shrub shrub with with a a greyish greyish bark bark and and brilliant brilliant foliage, foliage, the the slender slender branches branches of of which, which, at at the the bases bases

of their their of

leaves, leaves, had had bunches bunches of of small small white white flowers flowers and and

demand among among devout devout Moslems, Moslems, who who became much much in in demand became looked looked upon upon it it as as a a divine divine gift gift brought brought by by an an angel angel from from heaven to to the the faithful. faithful. The The use use of of coffee coffee spread spread from from Aden Aden to to heaven Medina, Mecca, Mecca, and and throughout throughout the the whole whole of of the the Middle Middle Medina, East. Coflee Coffee was was taken taken during during prayers, prayers, in in the the mosques, mosques, even even East. in in the the Holy Holy Temple Temple at at Mecca Mecca and and before before the the Tomb Tomb of of the the Prophet. Prophet. Coffee, in in the the Middle Middle East, East, is is one one of of the the first first necessities necessities of of Coffee, life. It It was was hardly hardly known known in in Europe Europe before before the the seventeenth seventeenth life. century. Travellers Travellers who who had had acquired acquired the the habit habit of of drinking drinking century. this beverage beverage in in the the East East imported imported it it at at first first for for their their personal personal this use. Suleiman Suleiman Aga, Aga, the the ambassador ambassador of of the the Sublime Sublime Porte Porte to to use. the Court Court of ofLouis Louis XIV XIV in in 1669 1669 popularisod popularised coffee coffee in in France. France. the As laid laid down downby by Turkish Turkish custonr" custom, he he offered offered it it to to all aIl who who came came As to visit visit him. him. The The vogue vogue for for coffee coffee spread spread through through high high to society; it it was was soon soon in in demand demand and and the the price price was was high. high. society; The Dutch Dutch founded founded the the East East India India coffee coffee trade trade when when they they The introduced coffee coffee into into Java Java about about 1690. 1690, but but it it was was a a FrenchFrenchintroduced man, Desclieux, Desclieux, who who introduced introduced it it into into the the western western hemihemiman, sphere in in the the reign reign of of Louis Louis XIV. XIV. He He brought brought one one small small sphere seedling to to Martinique. Martinique. The The plant plant flourished, flourished, and and seedlings seedlings seedling were taken taken to to French French Guiana. Guiana. From From there there it it spread spread to to were Central America. America. Brazil Brazil is is the the greatest greatest producer producer of of coffee. coffee. Central The best best varieties, varieties, known known as as mocha mocha ot or Yemen, Yemen, came came from from The Arabia, R6union Runion Island Island and and Martinique. Martinique. The The names names have have Arabia,

clusters clusters of of small small berries. berries. Some Sorne were were green, green, some sorne were were a a clear clear yellow yellow colour colour and and others, others, which which had had reached reached full full maturity, maturity, were were the the size, size, shape shape and and colour colour of of a a cherry. cherry. It It was was the the coffee coffee shrub. The The Mullah, Mullah, testing testing these these unusual unusual berries, berries, made made himhimshrub. self a a potent potent brew, brew, and and spent spent the the night night in in a a state state of of delicious delicious self intoxication intoxication which, which, however, however, in in no no way way affected affected his his intellecintellectuai capacities. capacities. tual He He told told his his Dervishes Dervishes about about his his discovery discovery and and soon soon coffee coffee

been preserved preserved in in the the trade trade to to distinguish distinguish three three types types of been although the designation in no way implies its origin. origin. coffee, although Medium-sized grains, yellowish, yellowish, oblong. Bourbon. Medium-sized The biggest biggest grains, grains, rounded rounded at at the the ends, Martinique. The greenish greenish in colour. colour. Mo cha. Small Small irregular grains, grains, yellowish yellowish in colour col our and Mocha. sides. convex on both sides. in the wine, coffee gives gives the the greatest production in Like wine, plains, but but the the best qualities qualities come come from the highest highest parts of the torrid torrid zone, particularly particularly from Central Central America America (Guate(Guatethe mala, Salvador, Honduras, Honduras, Nicaragua Nicaragua and Costa Rica), as as mala, weil as from the the northern northern part part of of South America America (Venezuela (Venezuela well and Colombia) Colombia) whose whose products products are are always always highly highly rated. rated. and After the the fruit has has been been depulped and dried and the seed After are classified classified as to size and ripeness. polished, the the seeds are polished, Coffees of of various various origins origins are usually usually blended in different different Coffees proportions. When When green, coffee coffee keeps keeps for for a a long Jong time, proportions. provided it is is protected protected from damp. It is is entirely entirely devoid of provided smell. To release release the the aroma, aroma, coffee has has to be roasted, an smell. operation which which many many coffee lovers lovers insist on on performing performing operation themselves. Well-roasted Well-roasted coffee coffee should be be brown, brown, of of varying varying themselves. degrees of darkness, darkness, but but never never black. black. If not not sufficiently sufficientJy degrees produces a colourless colourless infusion infusion which which is rough rough and roasted it it produces roasted astringent. If If over-roasted over-roasted it produces produces a black, black, bitter bitter infuinfuastringent. sion. sion. During the the industrial industriaJ roasting roasting process process a small quantity of During sugar molasses molasses or or other other product product is is sometimes sometimes added to to 'coat' sugar the berries. berries. This This is is permissible permissibJe by by law. law. It gives the the berries berries a the better colour colour and more more shiny appearance; appearance; it prevents the the better Joss of of aroma aroma and has has the the further further advantage, advantage, for the the mermerloss chant, of of increasing increasing the the weight. weight. It also also enables enables him him to use use chant, inferior quality quality or or damaged damaged grains. grains. inferior aroma for for long, long, and and After roasting, roasting, coffee coffee does does not not keep keep its its aroma After should not not be be roasted roasted or or purchased purchased already already roasted roasted in in should quantities exceeding exceeding one's one's immediate immediate needs. needs. It It is is advisable advisable quantities to keep keep the the berries berries in in tins tins with with well-fitting well-fitting lids. lids. Ideally, ldeally, to should be be ground ground immediately immediately before before being being made, made, as as coffee should coffee ground coffee coffee loses loses its its aroma aroma very very quickly. quickly. ground Soluble coffee, coffee, more more commonly commonly known known as as instant instant coffee, coffee, Soluble was the the invention invention of of a a Mr Mr G. G. Washington, Washington, an an Englishman Englishman was living in in Guatemala. Guatemala. One One day day while while waiting waiting for for his his wife wife to to living join him him in in the the garden garden for for coffee, coffee, he he noticed noticed on on the the spout spout of of join the silver silver coffee-pot coffee-pot fine fine powder powder which which seemed seemed to to be be the the the condensation of of the the coffee coffee vapours. vapours. This This intrigued intrigued him, him, and and condensation led to to his his discovery discovery of of soluble soluble coffee. coffee. In In 1906 1906 he he started started led

256 256

COFFEE

'Melior'

Assorted coffee pots (Larousse)

Percolator Percolator

Cona

grinder'Rallye' Coffee grinder Peugeot Coffee 'Rallye' Peugeot

Two-colour stoneware Two-colour stoneware pot

Neapolitan

put his and put his product on on the in 1909. experiments and the market market in varieties ofinstant of instant coffee have have appeared Since that time time many many varieties Since and with great commercial success. coffee Brewing coffee - There are four basic methods of brewing ground coffee percolating and ground steeping, percolating and fiItering. filtering. - boiling, steeping, filtering the best method of extractCoffee experts consider fiItering ing the soluble soluble essences from the coffee which is contained in a paper or cIoth cloth tilter. filter. Boiling water is poured over, ftowing flowing a a container will not not come container where where it will come into contact again into a with the grounds. For perfect coffee, coffee, earthenware or or glass with receptacles should be used, since contact with metal lowers metallowers receptacIes ofthe the quality of the beverage. pouring coffee, ground to methd consists of The Turkish method of pouring receptacle containing a special receptacIe containing boiling water, a powder, into a and heating until is on on the point of boiling. This and until the coffee is operation is repeated three times. A few drops of of co cold operation Id water are added added to to settle coffee is is ready. are settle the the grounds, and and the the coffee The French method consists of pouring boiling water on finely ground coffee (but less finely ground than for Turkish perforated disks coffee) contained between disks in in a a recepcoffee) between two perforated called a cafetire. numerous types Among the tacle ca cafetiire. Among tacIe lied a the numerous types of cafetiires the traditional cafetiire cafetires is still traditional cafetire d la la Dubelloy is still the connoissuers. favourite with coffee connoissuers.
257

cr6ole coffee. care CROLE cn6olE BOURBON BouRBoN Bourbon crole coffee. CAF Cr6ole - Crole must be strong and fragrant. Allow 1 I heaped teaspoon teaspoon coffee must ground coffee per cup. cup. Press coffee per Press the the coffee coffee down down weil well and ground proceed as follows follows:: proceed filter into a bain-marie, which must not be boiling. Put the fiIter receptacle. Steep the a separate receptacIe. Keep sorne some boiling water in a of the tablespoons of coffee thoroughly, thoroughly, then, little by little, add tablespoons have obtained the boiling water. Let it drip through through until you have very hot hot in in a a coffee-pot required amount of coffee. coffee. Serve very required which has has been scalded. which AU LAIT LAIr A LA LA CRME, cRiME, AU with cream, witb with milk. CAF cerE Coffee witb stimulataddition of cream or milk to coffee reduces its stimulatThe addition properties and Dieticians, food. Dieticians, ing properties it into into a a real real food. ing and turns turns it it because its indigestihowever, are indigestiare very very much against against it because of its bility. (ll oz., g. (II Use 300 300 g. oz., 3! 3$ cups) Iced Iced coffee. coffee. CAF cAFE GLACGLACE - Use (1$ pints, pints, lf pints) boiling and t li pints) freshly ground coffee and f, litre (11 (1{ lb., 2} cups) granug. (li water. Pour into a a bowl with 575 g. infusion. chill the infusion. lated sugar. Dissolve the sugar and chjll (lf pints, generous quart) vanillaI litre (Ii Add to the coffee 1 litre (scant pint, 2i 2f cups) flavoured cold milk, and} and ] Jjtre ftavoured cold boiled milk, pail. If If served fresh cream. cream. Chjll in an an ice ice pail. served with with whipped fresh Chill in cafd ligeois. liigeois. cream it is called caf

COGNAC COGNAC
of coffee cofree Uses of flavouring many hot and - Coffee is used for flavouring an essence which which is sweets. It It is form of an cold sweets. is used used in the the form coffee. To flavour creams, creams, roast prepared with very strong coffee. oven, grind, and put the coffee beans on a metal sheet in the oyen, leave to infuse Cover with with a c10th cloth and leave them into boiling boiling milk. Coyer them (See CREAMS, ICE CREAMS for a a few CREAMS, ICE CREAMS AND few minutes. (See for Industrially produced coffee essence and ICES, PARFAIT.) Industrially flavouring creams. instant coffee can also be used for flavouring caffeine extracted. extracted. CAFE DfcArsnu Coffee Coffee with with caffeine cAFE DCAFIN - To caffeine, attempts render coffee less harmful and extract the caffeine, have been from coffee coffee its its alkaloid alkaloid conmade to to extract have been made extract from This operation, is nowaoperation, which which is stituent (see CAFFEINE). This ofbreaking breaking up the beans days done on a large scale, consists of chloroforn or action of chloroform by to the the action by steam, steam, subjecting them them to other solvent, and then liquid by sorne this Iiquid some other solvent, and then eliminating this heating and roasting. After roasting, the coffee retains retains the same taste taste as ordinary which has has not been treated, without having any of its coffee which stimulating properties. and roots roots have have been Coffee Coffee substitutes substitutes - Various grains and replace coffee, for adulteration. Apart from used coffee, or or for adulteration. Apart to replace used to figs, dates, chicory, the most important important adulterants include figs, chicory, (mildly astringent), malt, barley and other other roasted acorns (mildly astringent), malt, barley and cereals, chick-peas chick-peas and lupins (used a great deal in Brittany). harmless. The majority of these adulterants are harmless.

Branch and nut ofcola ofcola

Town in in the district of Charente which which has COGNAC the district - Town (see CHARENTE, given its name to famous brandies CHARENTE, given its name to famous brandies (see SPIRITS). SPIRITS). provide the The distillation of wines wines which which provide The the various distillation of and repasses. repasses.The of brouillis brouillis and The Cognacs Cognacs is done by the method of Champagnes, the Borderies and the special special qualities of the Champagnes, Fins-bois are not apparent until the brandy has been allowed Fins-bois years in 15 to in barrels of the white oak oak of the to 20 years to age for 15 age for to in Limousin oak. district, oak. Several brandies are blended district, or or in blended together to obtain a perfect bouquet. The blend is left to age. For For the boundaries of the Cognac region and its various subdivisions, suMivisions, see map below.

extract, in wines, etc. against all cola-based Dieticians are firmly against beverages. cola-based beverages. cream. cRiIr/D A LA u KOLA rore -- Made by adding a variable variable Cola am. CRME Cola cre cola nut nut to kind of sweetened amount of essence of cola to sorne some kind is made by adding the extract to a a thick substance. Often it is (crime pdtissiire), French pastry cream (crme French ptissire), frangipane cream, cream, cream. Cola cream, cream, flavoured with orange essence, or butter butter cream. is used to fill or decorate decorate cakes and pastries such as Genoese cake, choux, clairs, 6clairs, tartlets, etc. cake,

(A LA) preparation of fish COLBERT (A a preparation fish COLBERT to a - Name given to before being fried which are dipped in egg and breadcrumbs before (see SOLE, Sole Colbert). The name is also also applied applied to a special which is The name is to a special butter butter which (see BUTTER, served with with fish fish prepared d la la Colbert BUTTER, served prepared Colbert (see Compound butlers). butters). Compound FOODSTUFFS, PRESENTATION PRESENTATION OF COLD FOODSTUFFS, OF COLD COLD COLD pLATs FRoIDS DISHES. PLATS a cold buffet,' wrote FROIDS - 'The basis of a 'is attractive presentation. ludicious Car6me, Ois Carme, Judicious cooking and careful seasoning are also supremely supremely important. Good jellies clarified, perfectly transparent, are essential. These must be clarified, and of two colours only. only. One One of these and two colours these must must be be white, white, the a beautiful bold col colour.' other a our.' good jelly. Carme gives the following recipe for a good Carme 'Melt fine, fine, dry for 15 15 minutes red embers dry sugar for on red 'Melt minutes on embers to slowly. When it is is reddish amber in in colour moisten colour slowly. bring to the boil over a higher flame. with t ] glass water and bring transparent After it has boiled for a few minutes it becomes becomes a transparent a beautiful caramel of a our.' Carme beautiful reddish amber col colour.' Carme also recommends the use of 'beautiful sauces magnonnaises' (this was his name for mayonnaise) 'one white and the other a fine pistachio green.' glazed with 'Entries must must be with an 'Entres be dressed dressed with with care, care, glazed jelly, artistically presented, decorated light jelly, artistically presented, attractive light decorated as as possible with trufres, simply as meat from from the simply truffies, meat breasts of the breasts chicken and and pickled ox tongue, and garnished with chicken pickled ox tongue, and with fine ofjelly elegant borders ... . . . these are the rounds of jelly arranged as elegantborders handsome, cold dishes.' essentials in the presentation of handsome, dishes.' presentation of The presentation never be of cold cold dishes The be over dishes should should never of food should not be a work of elaborate or finicky. A dish of architecture. In conclusion, Carme that 'they should be Car6me says that'they voicing the taste of his tas te of put on smooth white plinths.' He was voicing own day, which no longer prevails. cold dish, the more more handThe simpler the presentation ofa of a cold some it is. But there are those who remain faithful to the old sorne
258

. . Grande

~Flns-boi, ~ Bons-bols

c::::- Fines borderies

Petite Champa,ne

champa,ne~~~~~~~~~

EEB:) SurJres and Aigrefeuillea ~ Eaux-de-vie' terroir

__ BOUNOARY OF OEPARTMENT

Map of of the Cognac-producing Cognac-producing areas Map

African tree. Its seeds seeds which which are are flattened COLA. KOLA tree. Its COLA. KoLA - African have a a bitter, astringent flavour, and are in shape, shape, have oblong in flavour, and They contain contain a a high proportion of chewed chewed by by the natives. They is a a glucoside, cola red. Cola Cola is caffeine, theobromine, and a caffeine, theobromine, a stimulant but but does does not not have have any real real nutritive tonic and a is used as a a colouring matter, a liquid used as matter, a Iiquid flavouring value. It is

COLZA COLZA
customs. It is for them that we quote Carme's Carme's rules for the presentation presentation of cold dishes: dishes: 'Fillets of and of beef. beef Dressed Dressed in a rectangle, glazed glazed and a long rectangle, jelly. The decorated The dish to be surrounded by a border bya border of decorated with withjelly. jelly. 'Ribs of garnished with beef. Dressed in their natural 'Ribs ofbeef natural shape, shape, garnished their own own bones, bones, carefully scraped to make make them their them white; scraped to border as above. border cover 'Chauds-froids of chicken chicken. Arrange 'Chauds-froids of Arrange in a pyramid and coyer transparent sauce. Crown Crown with a fine black truffie and with a transparent of lightly clumps of a white white double double cock's cock's comb. Scatter clumps comb. Scatter a chopped jelly on the peaks of of the pile. Finish with a border of chopped clear jelly. This is an entrie entre of of great distinction. clear 'Chicken salads. Presented like fricasses en en chaud-froid. llke fricassdes heart of of a a trufre, truffle, place hard-boiled egg with the heart Instead of place t Instead of a I hard-boiled mayonnaise. lettuce on top. Serve lettuce Serve with a good white or green mayonnaise. Make a a border border of coloured butter, hard-boiled eggs eg:gs or or coloured Make of hard-boiled decorated with fillets of anchovy. good forcemeat poultry. Garnish 'Galantines of a good Garnish with with a of poultry. pickled calf or ox ox and diced, pickled using plenty of truffies, whole and calf 's udder. Glaze lightly. tongue and calf's 'Salmis. Presented as above. 'Noix (see VEAL). Trimmed 'Noix de into an an attractive attractive Trimmed into veau (see de veau shape and the tetine. Glaze Glaze the remainder of the and decorated decorated with ttine. (By ttine, noix and tCtine, Carme Car6me means the and decorate decorate with jelly.' (By vers part of the noix de veau.) layer of of fat whicb which co covers 'Eel galantines. galantines. Should be on a a bed bed of of shaped, set set on be tower tower sbaped, jelly. Make a a border and decorated decorated with jelly. Montpellier buller butter and of jelly or coloured butter garnished garnished with sprigs of tarragon. ofjelly 'Salmon Montpellier buller. butter. masked with wth Montpellier May be masked 'salmon steaks. May jelly, truffie, Decorate or pickled of chicken chicken or breast of Decorate with with jelly, truffie, breast Make is aU same colour. colour. Make all the the same so that the decoration is tongue, so a coloured bu tter or jelly. orjelly. butter a border of ofcoloured 'Salads jillets of sole jish. Arrange inside a 'salads of Arrange inside a sole or or other other fish. of fillets jelly. Fillets border of moulded jelly. salmon, Fillets of turbot, trout, salmon, turbot, trout, border me way. brill, pike pike and way. For perch are are arranged arranged in in the same the sa brill, and perch whole and perch, coyer mayonnaise and with white white mayonnaise fish with cover the the fish whole perch, decorate jelly in two colours'. ofjelly decorate with truffies. Make a border of Carme in themselves, everything in Carme writes, 'Cold dishes are everything or all their out ail their man of of talent The man are nothing. nothing. The talent brings out or they are inherent beauty; the from it it and and detracts from the man without taste detracts makes them insipid.' In modern practice the is presented more simply. simply. the cold dish is The old methods, inspired by architecture architecture rather than than by the the arts and al! all the the abandoned and have been been abandoned arts of kitchen. have of the the kitchen, garnishes of a grouped in in the simplest manner are grouped the simplest a cold cold dish dish are possible archiseeking after after archipossible round main disb, without seeking round the dish, without the main tecturai tectural effects. Dishes purpose. On On in shapes shapes adapted adapted to to their their purpose. Dishes are are made made in these, much more more is much and decorated, decorated, is food, simply simply presented and these, food, elegant en supports with covered with when wood wooden supports covered formerly when elegant than than formerly butter, artistic figures figures with so-called so-called artistic plinths ornamented ornamented with or plinths butter, or were were used. used. The and intrinsic shape shape and of tbe the intrinsic most of is to make the the most The object is to make colour it only with only with surround it and to of tbe to surround main dish, dish, and colour of the main garnishes with it. it. garnishes which would be eaten eaten with would normally be Sorne 'futurist' Marinetti Marinetti of the ago disciples disciples of the Italian 'futurist' Some time time ago attempted, presentarevive the decorative presentato revive the decorative attempted, unsuccessfully, unsuccessfully, to tion of cold dishes. tion of dishes. entirely edible, they were laden with ornament. almost entirely They can can occasionally be Nowadays, they are rarely made. They be culinary exhibitions. exhibitions. seen:N seen as specimens in culinary This fish has Name given in Paris markets to hake. This has COLIN COLIN - Name (white blanc (white flesh and and is is also also called called saumon saumon blanc flaky flesh delicate flaky and stomach white and head and back are are grey, the stomach salmon). The head of north north Atlantic Atlantic opening up up of Before the silvered. Before the opening lightly silvered. instead of in fishing, the and used used instead of salt salt cod cod in was salted salted and the colin was fishing, European markets. (q.v.) are given for preparation given for cod The methods cod (q.v.) are methods of of preparation The for colin. suitable for alcoholic drinks drinks by by precipitaof alcoholic COLLAGE COLLAGE - Clarification of qualities may spoil keeping qualities which may spoil their their keeping tion of the the solids, solids, which tion WINE). (see WINE). gelatine. Butter Butter sauce sauce is is somesomeword for gelatine. COLLE COLLE - Another word times called sauce colle. gelatine to give body body to to a a COLLER COLLER Adding dissolved dissolved gelatine to give - Adding preparation. preparation.

To slice meat or or vegetables. vegetables. COLL OP. E~CALOPER - To COLLOP. EscALopERslice meat (family (cnou) -- Colocasia COLOCASIA. esculenta (family COLOCASIA. CARAIBE Colocasiaesculenta cnnlInn (CHOU) (Spice Moluccas (Spice herb native native of of the the Moluccas Araceae), Araceae), tuberous tuberous herb are leaves as as weil well as as tubers Islands). Islands). In In the tubers are West Indies, Indies, leaves the West (chou). name caraibe caraibe (chou). eaten as hence the French name as cabbage, cabbage, hence the French
gourd family. family. The The multimultiCOLOCYNTH of the the gourd - Member of pulp coloured as a a table ornament. The The pulp coloured fruit fruit is is rich rich and and used used as table ornament. is is bitter and and a a violent purgative.

COLOMBINES mowith an an outer outer layer layer of Croquettes with of se semoCOLOMBINES - Croquettes (See HORS-D'UVRE, lina HORS-D'(EUVRE, Hot Hot horshorslina with with Parmesan. Parmesan. (See d'uvre.) d euvre.)

Moule Moule i colonne colonne (Dehillerin. (D ehillerin. Phol. Itr ous se) Pho t. Larousse)

COLONNE COLONNE -- Implement cut Implement used used to core apples apples and and cut to core vegetables lied moule vegetables into into a a column. column. Also Also ca called d colonne. colonne. moule COLOURINGS. COLOURINGS. COLORANTS in The colourings colourings used used in coroRANrs -- The cookery, and confectionary, confectionary, are are mainly mainly of of cookery, cake-making, cake-making, and vegetable harmless; sorne vegetable origin, origin, and and are are harmless; some are are of of insect insect origin, origin, like like the the carmine carmine of of cochineal; cochineal; or or of of minerai mineral origin, origin, such such as as those derived from from coal. those derived coal. The The colouring is caramel, colouring most most often often used used in in cooking cooking is caramel, especially pot-au-feu, look of especially to improve the of the stock of of pot-au-feu, the look to improve the stock meat glazes and meat glazes and sauces. Liquid caramel is obtained obtained by sauces. Liquid caramel is by cooking (see cooking sugar little water water until it turns sugar with with aa little until it turns dark dark (see SUGAR). SUGAR). COLZA plant sometimes rape seed, is an an oily sometimes COLZL -- Colza, Colza, or or rape seed, is oily plant used adulterate mustard mustard seed. used to to adulterate seed.

COLD at an an exexkept at FRoIDE -- Room Room kept COLD ROOM. ROOM. CHAMBRE cHAMBRE FROIDE tremely preserving and for preserving storing and storing and used used for tremely low temperature temperature and perishable perishable foods. foods. COLIFICHET - A dry made for for without butter or salt, salt, made dry cake, cake, witbout butter or COLIFICHET-A birds. birds. In (set pieces), pAfisserie, pices piices montes pieces), which which decorated decorated ln ptisserie, montdes (set the were called called colifichets, colifichets, to to distinguish distinguish and buffets the table table and buffets were them proper dishes. colifichets were were Although the the colifichets from the dishes. Although them from the proper

259 259

COMFITS COMFITS
COMFITS. COMFJTS. coNFITs CONFITS - Fruits or or vegetables vegetables preserved preserved in sugar, or vinegar vinegar (see (see GHERKINS, G HERKINS, CAPERS, CAPERS, sugar, brandy, brandy, or
FRUTTS). FRUITS).

COMFREY. COMFREY. coNsouDE CONSOUDE - Name of of various various plants, plants, some sorne of which which are edible edibJe and and used used in in salad. saJad, or cooked. cooked, like corncornsalad. salad.

and of fibre. and remove the the strips strips of fibre. Cook Cook for for 5 minutes minutes in in a heavy (l pint, heavy sugar syrup syrup - 450 450 g. (l (1 lb., 2 cups) sugar to 6 dl. (1 2j 2t cups) cups) water. Flavour Flavour with kirsch. Cherry compote compote J. COMPOTE DE DE cERrsEs CERISES - Put the stoned stoned I. colrpors
300 g. (11 oz.,l| OZ., 1t cups) cups) sugar sugar for each I 1 ke.QI kg. (2i lb.) cherries cherries (net (net weight). weight). Cook Cook with with the lid lid on on for for 8 8 minutes minutes over over low 10w heat.

cherries cherries in a sugar sugar syrup which which has been been cooked to the large large

ball stage stage (119"-122'C.,246-252'F.) (l19-122C., 246-252F.) (see (see SUGAR). ball SUGAR). Use

(ll

of of the the Chicken Chickenfricasse, for which which one of of the the oldest oldest culinary fricassie, for treatises treatises (1290),le (1290), le Traitd Trait oit o l'on mseigne enseigne dfaire faire et appareiller appareiller et the following following recipe: recipe: et assaisonner assaisonner toutes toutes viandes, viandes, gives the 'If 'If you you wish wish to to make make cominie comine de de gelines, take the chickens chickens and and cook cook them them in in wine wine and and water, water, boil them, them, skim offthe off the fat, and and take take out the the chickens. cbickens. Take egg yolks, yolks, beat beat them well, weil, and and dilute them them with with chicken stock. Put Put in some sorne cumin. cumin, and put put all ail together. together. There There is is your your cominie.' comine.'

COMINEE COMJNE DE GELINES GELINES (Ancient recipe) recipe) - The ancestor ancestor

Stir from time to time. Arrange the cherries in a a dish dish and pour pour the cooking cooking syrup over. Flavour with kirsch or cherry
brandy. brandy. Cherry Cherry compote compote II. cotlrpors COMPOTE DE cERrsEs CERISES - Put the stoned stoned cherries in a a deep deep dish dish with a a bag containing 12 12 crushed crushed kernels. kernels. Sprinkle Sprinkle generously generously with with powdered sugar. When the cherries are swimming swimming in their their own own juice, juice, cook in the oven oyen in cherries a covered covered dish. dish. Fig Fig compote compote (dried (dried figs). figs). courorc COMPOTE DE DE FrcuEs FIGUES sicnes SCHES Prepared Prepared in the same same way way as Prune Prune compote compote (see (see below). COMPOTE DE DE Frcuns FIGUES ruicnns FRACHES (fresb figs). figs). corrlrorE Fig compote (fresh Peel the figs, which should should be ripe and and of equal size; put Peel in boiling boiling syrup syrup - 350 350 g. (12 oz.,lj OZ., 11 cups) cups) sugar sugar to 6 dl. them in (l (1 pint, pint, 2| 2-!- cups) cups) water - flavoured flavoured with with vanilla. Poach Poach for a few few minutes. minutes. Pour Pour the the cooking cooking syrup over over the the fruit arranged in a dish. dish. Pear compote. compote. coMporE COMPOTE DE DE porREs POIRES - If If the pears are small, Pear leave leave them them whole, whole, and and peel peel them. them. If If they are large, cut into quarters quarters or or halves halves and and trim trim them. them. Poach the the fruit fruit in boiling boiling vanilla vanilla syrup - 350 g. (12 oz., OZ., Poach l| 1-!- cups) cups) sugar sugar to to 6 dl. (l (1 pint,2l pint, 2-!- cups) cups) water - cooking cooking only lightly if if soft. soft. lightly If this this compote compote is is made with with firm pears pears (cooking pears) pears) If rub the the fruit fruit with with lemon Jemon and and blanch blanch them them for a few few minutes minutes rub before putting putting them them in in the the vanilla-flavoured vanilla-flavoured cooking cooking syrup. before Pineapple compote. compote. coMporn COMPOTE D'ANANAS D'ANANAS - Remove Remove the the skin Pineapple and core core of of a a pineapple. pineapple. Slice Slice the the fruit and cook cook in vanillavanillaand flavoured flavoured syrup. syrup. Arrange Arrange the the fruit fruit in a dish and pour pour the the cooking syrup over it. Flavour Flavour with kirsch kirsch or any other other liqueur. liqueur. This compote can can be be made made with with tinned tinned pineapple. pineapple. This compote Plun Plum compote. compote. coMporn COMPOTE DE DE pRUNEs PRUNES - Made Made particularly particularly with with mirabelle mirabelle plums pJums or or greengages, greengages, but but also also with with any any kind kind of plum. plum. of Stone the the fruit fruit and and poach poach in in a a syrup syrup of of 350 350 g. g. (12 oz., OZ., l$ I-!Stone cups) sugar sugar to to 6 6 dl. (l (1 pint, pint, 2| 2-!- cups) cups) water water for for 10 10 to to 12 12 cups) minutes. minutes. Prune compote. compote. coMporE COMPOTE DE DE eRUNEAUX PRUNEAlJX - Soak Soak the the prunes prunes Prune in in cold cold water water until until they they swell. sweJI. Cook Cook in in a syrup syrup of of 350 350 g. g. (12 (12 oz., OZ., 1-!- cups) cups) sugar sugar to to 6 6 dl. dl. (1 pint, 2\ 2-!- cups) cups) liquid, Iiquid, consisting of of half half red red wine wine and and half half water, water, flavoured flavoured with with consisting cinnamon or with with lemon lemon zest. zest. Cook Cook very very gently. gently. This This cinnamon compote can can also also be be prepared prepared in in a a syrup syrup made made without without the the compote wine. wine. Ali dried dried fruit fruit compotes compotes are are made made in in the the same same way, way, cookcookAll ing the the fruit fruit in in a a thin thin syrup. syrup. ing Raspberry compote. compote. coMporr COMPOTE DE DE FRAMBorsns FRAMBOISES - Arrange Arrange the the Raspber-ry fruit in in a a deep deep dish. dish. Pour Pour over over a a few few tablespoons tablespoons of of boiling boiling fruit syrup. syrup. Strawberry compote. compote. coMporE COMPOTE DE DE FRArsEs FRAISES - Prepared Prepared in in the the Strawberry same way way as as Raspberry Raspberry compote. compote. same

COMPOTE fresh or COMPOTE - Preparation Preparation of offresh or dried dried fruit fruit in in a thick thick or thin thin syrup, flavoured flavoured or not not with with various various aromatics aromatics such such as vanilla; orange zest; zest; cinnamon cinnamon; clove; etc. etc. vanilla; lemon lemon or orange ; clove; Dried Dried fruits, prunes, prunes, apricots, apricots, apples, apples, pears, pears, etc., etc., must must be be soaked soaked for for some sorne time time in cold cold water water before before being being cooked in in
the the syrup. syrup. Compotes Compotes are are usually usually served served cold. cold. They They can can be be sprinkled sprinkled with with kirsch kirsch or or some SOrne other other liqueur. liqueur. Simple Simple compotes compotes consist consist of one type type of fruit cooked cooked in in syrup. syrup. Compotes Compotes composies composes consist consist of a macidoine macdoine of various various fruits, arranged in in a a dish. dish. The The syrup syrup in in which which they they have have been been fruits, arranged cooked cooked is is poured poured over over them, them, or they they can can be be covered covered with wi th a a fruit fruit jelly jelly (quince, (quince, gooseberry, gooseberry, apple, apple, etc.). etc.). The The word word is is also also used used for for certain certain dishes dishes (of (of pigeon, pigeon, partridge) partridge) which which have have been been cooked cooked for for a a considerable considerable time. time.

l|

(l

Fruit Fruit compote compote

COMPOTES COMPOTES OF OF FRESH FRESH AND AND DRIED DRlED FRUITS. FRUITS.
POTES ] POTES DE DE FRUITS FRUITS FRAIS FRAIS ET ET SECS SECS:

COMcorr,r-

fruit, fruit, cored cored and and peeled, peeled, or or with with fruit fruit cut cut into into halves halves or or
quarters, quarters, peeled peeled and and with with the the pips pips removed. removed. Put Put the the fruit fruit in in a a syrup of350 350 g. g. (12 (12 o2.,1| OZ., 1-!- cups) cups) sugar sugar to to 6 6 dl. dl. (l (1 pint, pint, 2| 2-!- cups) cups) syrup of water, water, with with or or without without vanilla vanilla flavouring. flavouring. Remove Remove the the pieces pieces as as soon soon as as they they are are cooked, cooked, arrange arrange them them in in a a dish dish and and pour pour the the cooking cooking syrup syrup over over the the fruit. fruit. Apricot COMPOTE D'ABRrcors D'ABRICOTS - Halve Halve the the apriapriApricot compote. compote. coMporE cots; cots; break break open open the the stones stones and and blanch blanch the the kernels; kernels; cook cook the the fruit fruit in in a a syrup syrup- 350 350g. g. (12 (12 oz.,l! OZ., 1-!- cups) cu ps) sugar sugar to to 6 6 dl. dl. (l (1 pint, pint, 2| 2-!- cups) cups) water. water. Arrange Arrange the the apricot apricot halves halves in in a a dish dish and and put put half a kernel halfa kernel on on each each fruit. fruit. Pour Pour over over the the cooking cooking syrup. syrup. Banana COMPOTE DE DE BANAr\iEs BANANES - Peel Peel the the bananas bananas Banana compote. compote. coMporE

Apple Apple compote. compote. coMporE COMPOTE DE DE poMMEs POMMES - Made Made with with whole whole

COMPOTES OF OF PRESERVED PRESERVED FRUITS. FRUITS. coMporEs COMPOTES COMPOTES

FRUITS EN EN CONSERVE: CONSERVE: FRUITS

DE DE

Apricot compote. compote. corr,rporE COMPOTE D'ABRrcors D'ABRICOTS - Choose Choose slightly slightJy Apricot under-ripe fruit. fruit. Prick Prick them them and and put put in in a a basin. basin. Cover Coyer with with under-ripe Soak in in the the syrup syrup for for 3 3 hours. hours. a very very heavy heavy cold cold syrup. syrup. Soak a While the the fruit fruit is is soaking soaking prepare prepare a a 26 26 syrup syrup (see (see While SUGAR) with with lump lump sugar. sugar. SUGAR) syrup with with white white of of egg egg - one one white white for for 2 2 litres litres CJarify the the syrup Clarify 260 260

CONDIMENTS
(3| pints, 4t 4j pints) syrup. Strain the syrup through (3-t through a straincloth. Leave to cool. ing bag or clotho wide-mouthed jars and Drain the apricots. Put them into wide-mouthed cover with the boiling, clarified clarified syrup so so that it reaches at coyer (l inch) above the level of the fruit. Fix on the tops least 3 cm. (J and screw bands tightly, then give the bands one half-turn to loosen them. Place a wire wire rack in the bottom of a large preserving pan and arrange the bottles on it so they do do not touch. and touch. Fill the pan with with cold cold water, water, making making sure sure it it covers covers the jars. pan jars. Boil a full JO minutes. Remove the bottles, wipe and rapidly for a full l0 away from the light. seal them. Keep in a cool place, away can also also be be used for the compote. They Halved apricots can put in are put a basin and and soaked soaked in a a heavy heavy syrup. are in a syrup. Half the number of stones peeled and stones are are cracked, the kernels peeled number the kernels and put into the preserving preserving jars with the apricots. and boiling is is the same as above. The process for capping and peacheg plums plums and Compote of cherries, cherrieg peaches, and other fruits fruits for Compote preserving prepared for preserving preserving in the All these fruits are prepared preserving - Ali same way as apricots. They are boiled for a longer or shorter time, depending on their variety.
COMPOTIER Deep dish on a raised base, used for fruits, COMPOTIER - Deep compotes, jams and and other co cold Id sweets. China or crystal fruit compotes, used for fresh fruits. dishes are also used
added to to food to CONDIMENTS - Aromatic substances, added improve flavour. improve its flavour. is used for substances which are The term used for The term 'seasoning' is 'condiments' apply to while 'condiments' to those added added during cooking, cooking, while food already prepared. The two words added at the table to food speech. are interchangeable in current speech. vegetable saltpetre, are of of vegetable AU All condiments, e~cept except salt, and saltpetre, origin, origin, and vegetarian peoples, particularly those who live in hot countries, use strong condiments the most. according to Condiments Condiments are are classed, classed, according to their their dominant flavour, into acid, aromatic, bitter, salt, sweet, etc. Acid condiments condimenb - Vinegar, verjuice, the juice of lemon or and encourage encourage salivary tamarind, etc. buds and etc. affect the the taste taste buds preserved in vinegar; sai salted all vegeta vegetables in vinegar; ted secretion. So bles preserved So do do ail acid through cucumbers, become acid cucumbers, which which become through fermentation; sweetcapers; nasturtium nasturtium flowers; Indian pickles; purslane; sweetcapers; little on onions cherries; sea-fennel sea-fennel or or samphire; samphire; little ions in sour sour cherries; in vinegar. vinegar; melon in example Bitter aromatic condiments is the chief example condiments - Pepper is qualities are are largely lost in in the its aromatic aromatic qualities of this this group; its its flavour it should be cooking, and to preserve its process of ofcooking, added after cooking. added and ginger can can be Paprika, the various types of pimento, and flavour of ofpepper. used to reinforce the flavour pepper. are dill, aromatic condiments condiments are dill, anise, Among the Among the main main aromatic chervil, coriander, coriander, cumin, basil, cocoa, cocoa, coffee, coffee, cinnamon, cinnamon, chervil, basil, fennel, juniper, clove, clove, bay, turmeric, bay, mace, mint, turmeric, tarragon, tarragon, fennel, parsley, saffron, vanilla, sage, savory, savory, thyme, thyme, vanilla, nutmeg, nutmeg, parsley, saffron, sage, aromatic vegetables. and I~mon lemon zest, zest, and various aromatic orange and onion, shallot, Welsh on Bitter ion, spring Bitter condiments condiments - Garlic, shallot, (Spanish garlic), leeks, are vegetable vegetable onion, onion, rocamble (Spanish sometimes used seasonings rather than condiments, but are sometimes and horseradish horseradish are are true raw as as condiments; raw mus tard and condiments; mustard condiments, stimulating the appetite. Fat condiments condiments - The fatty elements (oils, butter, fats) are used for sometimes sometimes classed as condiments, because they are used seasoning. They are really food, not condiments. There are are many Ready-made many condiments, Ready-made condiments condiments - There distinctive taste accordprepared industrially, which have a distinctive in which which the specific ingredients are ing to the proportions in They include English sauces sauces (Worcestershire, used. include the used. They the English Harvey, etc.), etc.), ketchups, curry powders, prepared mustards, soy sauce, etc. is the only chloride or sea-salt is Salt condiments condiments - Sodium chloride minerai origin. Its importance importance is is undertable condiment condiment of mineral lined by its frequent use in metaphors.

COMTECOMT - See CHEESE.

French terrn for rough rough chopping, CONCASSER chopping, or term for - French pounding in a mortar. pounding
(Pfltisserie) piece of left-over Ftaky CONDE (Ptisserie) a piece COND Flaky out a - Roll out (see DOUGH) into a a strip about about 25 25 cm. pastry (see cm. (10 inches) (* inch) thick. Coyer long, 10 l0 cm. cm. (4 inches) wide and 1 long, cm. ( Cover * cm. with a layer of royal almond icing called Cond Condi (see below). (l| inches) wide. Lift rectangles 4 cm. cm. (l-t Divide the strip into rectangles them with the blade of a large !mife knife and put them them blade of them on a baking tray. Powder with icing sugar. Cook in a gentle oyen. oven. Preparation of the g. (4 (4 oz., the Cond Condd 100 g. together 100 - Beat together and2 sugar and eggwhites. scant cup) icing sugar 2 egg whites. When the mixture mixture is add enough finely chopped, peeled almonds to make a stiff, add thick paste. pas te.

Two much used Two condiments: condiments: pickled gherkins pickled and mustard

Condiment set by Nicolas (1763) Nicolas Lefvre Lefdvre (1763) Condiment (Arts dcoratifs. ddcoratifs. Phot. Larousse) (Arts Larousse)

261 261

CONDIMENT SET SET CONDIMENT

Salt is is both both an an element part of element which which is is n integral integral part of our our Salt and body fluids. and bodv fluids, and an an act tissues and ac al condiment. condiment. Ali All our our tissues foods contain contain varying varying amounts amounts of in spite of sa t;; in spite of of this, this, there there foods few dishes are few dishes which which are are not not improv im by the the addition addition of of il. it. are by (azotate or Saltpetre (azotate potassium n or potassium n trate) rate) is is hardly hardly used in used in Saltpetre cooking, but it is is employed but it employed in in the .ing industry industry to the sa ting accento accencooking, tuate the red colouring the red colouring of of meats. meats. tuate (syrups, etc.) Sweet condiments condiments Sugar and and its its erivatives ivatives (syrups, etc.) Sweet - Sugar as weil well as as honeys, honeys, are are foods foods and and condiments. condiments. In In sorne some as (whortleberri gooseberries) countries, compotes compotes (whortleberries gooseberries) are are used used countries, as condiments. condiments. Having Having a a flavour flavour wh ch h is is sweet and sour sour at at sweet and as the same same time, are often often sery time, they they are with roast roast or or boiled boiled the with particularly game. game. meats, particularly meats, Sweet condiments condiments also also include he aceto-dolce of the Sweet preserve of Italians, a a preserve fruit and of fruit and 'egetableg in vinegar, vinegar, egetables in Italians, sweetened with concentrated grape grape . ust or <ir wiih with honey, and and sweetened preserved fruits fruits with mustard. preserved
(Preserved pork) (Gascon cookery) porc (Preserved pork) (Gascon de porc cookery) -- Pieces Confit de Pieces Confit of pork, marinated marinated in in salt with spices, in melted melted salt with spices, and and cooke cookeri in of"pork, pork fat. fat. pork porc, which great deal which is de porc, is used in Gascon Confit de used a a great deal in Gascon Confit preserved instoneware pots in cookery, is is preserved in-stoneware pots in the the same same way way as as cookery, Confit d'oie. d oie. Confit

CONDIMENT SET. HUILLIER SET. HUILLlER of tableware, tableware, often often CONDIMENT - Pi ce of glass bottles in a consisting of two glass l, wooden or a m tal, pottery or pottery consisting frame. Formerly, Formerly, it it was was a a magnifice magni piece of silver, silver, placed frame. t piece on the table for decoration rather th t use. on
CONFECTIONER'S CUST CUSTARD. CONFECTIONER'S ARD. CREAMS, French pastry cream. CREA MS, French

plrrssIinn

See

CONFECTIONERY. CONFISERIE coNFrsERrE transformation of of CONFECTIONERY. - he transformation into sweets. sweets. It It tends more and and more to be an industry industrv be an sugar into of which the products are sold in sp ial ial shops. One branch of of confectionery confectionery is is the ma making c colates. tes. Long ago ago the the of king of ch Egyptians, the Arabs and and the the hine Chi e prepared sweetmeats fruitjuices juices and hon y.. In Europe the use of based on various fruit widespread until after he Crusades, Crusades. and and even sugar was not widespread for a lons time a long time in the hands of apothecaries. apothecaries. then remained for In the fifteenth fifteenth century the crystalli fruits of Auvergne, crystalli ed fruits In flavoured with mber the sugared almonds ftavoured and the ber or musk, and 'gigembrats de de Montpellier' enjoyed enjoyed well-deserved well-deserved reputa'gigembrats regulations promu tion. In 1660, the regulations Colbert underpromul ated by Colbert lined importance of man acture of the ure of of the the sugared the manu lined the the importance almonds of of Verdun. In Diderot's En clopdie several plates work of of the confectioner. With the the discovery of the confectioner. show the the work sugar beet juice of achinery in the ninesugar juice and the advance advance of teenth century, sweet-making develo develo ed rapidly. CONFIT d k, turkey, etc., cooked CONFIT - Meat of pork, goose, du in its own fat, and kept covered covered in th same fat to prevent it coming coming in contact with the air. (Gascm cookery) Confit d'oie (Preserved (Preserved goose) goose) (Gascon - Pieces of and preserved stoneware of goose, goose, cooked in in goose goose fat fat and preserved in stoneware pots. (See (See GOOSE). GOOSE).

(Wine Lodges) The first wine VII\EUSES (Wine Indges) -- The first wine CONFRRIES COMRfRIES VINEUSES principal aim lodges date date back back to Middle Ages. to the the Middle Ages. Their Their principal airri lodges was mu mutual brotherly aid, aid, but but sorne some of of them a also took was tuai brotherly them also took a protective interest quality of interest in in the The first the quality wine. The first of of the of wine. protective the prei;ent day (the Sacavins confririas was day confrries was founded founded in in 1905 1905 (the Sacavins present The Chevaliers (1934), which dlAnjou). The Chevaliers du du tte-vin tdte-vin (1934), which followed followed d'.ARjOU). i[ was was such a commercial such a commercial success success that after the that after Second il', the Second World War War more more and confriries were and more more confrries were established.They WoFid established. They' all adhered adhered to mediaeval corporato the the spirit spirit and and tradition tradition of of mediaeval corporaail confrdnes or tive confrries or ancient ancient Bacchic Bacchic societies. In fact, fact, most societies. In of most of tive are closer in character them are character to latter despite closer in to the the latter despite the the fact fact that them that some of of their ceremonial ceremonial tends towards the mediaeval style. sorne style. the mediaeval Their celebrations celebrations are are conducted conducted according according to long Their a long to a ruling: chapters, established ruling: chapters, inauguration inauguration of established of members, members, generously laced banquets generously laced with with local local wines, wines, traditional banquets traditional all carried carried out out in entertainment, ail in an an atmosphere atmosphere of of high entertainment, (usually rather earthy) spirits and and (usually good humour. earthy) good spirits The importance importance of of these these confrries confrdries is is undeniable. They The undeniable. They people, French have taught taught people, French and and foreigners foreigners alike, alike, to know have to know and better better appreciate appreciate French French wines. wines. There There are and are almost almost enough of of them them now, however; if there are are many more enough more their their diminished. effectiveness will be diminished. The list list of of confrries confriries that follows is is divided into their The that follows divided into their with comments regional categories, with comments on on the important the most important of them.

ALSACE La Confrrie Confr6rie Saint-Etienne d'Alsace question La d'Alsace Without question - Without the oldest known known confrrie confrdrie vineuse; vineuse; established the established in in Ammerin the schwihr in fourteenth century the fourteenth century and schwihr and reinstated reinstated after after the in 1947. Second World War in It has has preserved the the mediaeval hierarchies hierarchies inherited from the corporations. corporations. There There are are three the progressive stages three progressive stages laid laid down for novices: apprentice, companion, master. master. There is is also a a special special category, category, hors also hors cadre, cadre, that that of of 'honorary member'. This is is reserved for official personalities whom the confrdrie considers considers worthy of confrrie of the dignity.

BORDEAUX _ BORDEAUXiaCommanderie La Commanderie du bontemps de Mdoc - In M6doc et des Graves GravesM6doc, Mdoc, bontemps is the name for the wooden bowl in which the vine-grower vine-grower beats beats the egg whites which be used to which will will be

Confectioners Confeclioners at al work (from (from Diderot's Diderol's Enc Encyclopdie) y c lopldie)

262

CONFRERIES CONFRRIES

ALSACE
Confr6rie Confrrie Saint-Etienne d'Alsace d'Alsace Saint-tienne Commanderie du bontemps Commanderie M6doc et des Graves de Mdoc

BORDELAIS BORDELAIS
Conn6tablie Conntablie de Guyenne

Jurat de Saint-milion Saint-Emilion

(claify) his wine. This confrrie, confrine, founded in in 1949, has coller (c1arify) chosen this its name name and and symbol, and and for object for its chosen for their this object ruffie of white muslin traditional headgear, headgear, too, too, since since the traditional the rume decorates the hat resembles stiffiy stiffy whisked egg whites. that decorates Every year, and particularly in June for the flower festival, (vine proclamation of September for the proclamation vendanges (vine of the vendanges and in September celebrated in harvest), the chapters of the Commanderie Commandene are celebrated M6doc chteau. chdteau. They setting of of sorne some Graves Graves or Mdoc the splendid setting are followed by marvellous spectacles and a banquet graced by the best wines. Commanderie du bontemps de Sainte-Croix-du-Mont La Commanderie Sainte-Croix-du-Mont This, the most recent of the Bordeaux Bordeatx confrries, confriries, also cornes comes banner of of bontemps. It represents the white dessert under the banner Garonne. wines of the right bank of the Garonne.

Commanderie du bontemps de Sauternes La Commanderie et Barsac - The Sauterneset Barsac-The great white dessert dessert wines of of Sauternes and Barsac have rallied great have rallied of their neighbouring neighbouring red wines. But while emblem oftheir under the emblem robes of latter are the robes of the are bordeaux-coloured, the the vinethe latter bordeaux-coloured, the growers of of Sauternes Sauternes drape drape themselves themselves in in golden-hued growers colour of their wines. velvet, the colour de Guyenne The name La Conntablie name of this Connetablie de confrdrie this confrrie - The refers to administrative divisions divisions of ancient France. It refers to the administrative itself the task of of promoting the wines wines of the has taken upon itself Premiires Ctes C6tes de Bordeaux. The meetings are held held in the Premires meetings are chiteau of the duc d'Epernon d'Epernon at Cadillac. magnificent chteau Cadillac. Le Grand Grand Conseil This is is the Le Conseil du du vin vin de de Bordeaux Bordeaux - This amalgamation of several Bordeaux confrries. confriries. amalgamation La Jurade de Saint-milion - It was John 'Lackland', King LaJurade John'Lackland', Saint-fmilioncharter in Falaise Falaise in 1199 giving the of of England, who signed a charter Saint-Emilion. For six centufreedom of the communes to to Saint-milion. ries this ries was to govern the jurade, the equivalent of this charter was the town council of Saint-milion. Saint-Emilion. powers of the jurade extended domain of of wine, extended to the domain The powers vendanges, as weil well and consisted consisted of the proclamation of the vendanges, and pursuance of as control of the quality of the wines. It was in pursuance functions that confririe of Saint-milion Saint-Emilion these ancient functions that the confrrie when it it was adopted name of Jurade Jurade when was 'resurrected' in adopted the the name 1948. by torchlight in chapters are are held Nowadays the held by the official chapters carved out rock. One of the the the monolithic church church carved out of the the rock. proclamation of of the most important is the most important occasions occasions is the proclamation vendangesby vendanges by the jurats from the top of the 'Tour 'Tour du roi'.

BOURGOGNE BOURGOGNE
Compagnon Compagnon du Beaujolais Chevalier Chevalier du Tastevin

BURGUNDY _ BURGUNDYdr BeaujolaisBeaujolais - This confrrie, confrCne, as its name Les Compagnons Compagnons du guilds; indicates, takes its inspiration from the ancient trade guilds; (Parisian dut its Paris section is its is called le parisien (parisian y). le Devoir parisim duty). and the whole of Its aim is to make the wines of Beaujolais and province better known and appreciated. Its this picturesque province Villefranche-sur-Sa6ne. headquarters are at Villefranche-sur-Sane. Confr6rie des chevaliers du tte-vin tflte-vin in 1934 La Confrrie F ounded in - Founded at Nuits-Saint-Georges, Nuits-Saint-Georges, this this confrrie confrdrue continues to to be at be exBurgundy wine tremely successful. Its activities to publicise Burgundy have been It has has branches have in many many foreign been considerable. It branches in countries; the commanderie commanderie in intheUnited States, for example, example, countries; the United States,
263 263

CONFRRIES CONFRERIES

REGIoN RGION MEDITERRANEENNE MDITERRANENNE

Chevalier Chevalier M6duse de la Mduse Confr6rie Rabelais Confrrie <dive bouteille de la dive bouteille>

SUD-OUEST
Viguerie Viguerie royale de Juranon Jurangon

is well headquarters are in the beautiful chteau chdteau known. Its beadquarters weil known. main celebrations confririe of celebrations of of the confrrie of Clos-Vougeot, Clos-Vougeot, where the main chaptels. The latter take place: tastevinages and official chapters. latter take take and Burgundy chants form of a a spectacle enlivened by chants and by Burgundy the fonn copious disnes dlsnleswashed down with followed by copious followed washed down with the the bestwines. best wines. people. foreigners as well weil as French people. It is attended by many foreigners kind are held several times a year, a times a this kind Celebrations of this Hospices de de Beaune. special one being the wine sale of the Hospices This is Glorianves of Buris the important of the This the most important the Trois Glorieuses year, near 22 January, the confrrie confrdrie organises a gundy. Each year, celebration in in one of tbe Saint-Vincent's Saint-Vincent's day celebration the villages of the honour of the patron saint of the vine-growers. Cte COte in honour

This confrrie, La Confrrie de Mlcon confririe, La Mcon Confr6rie Saint-Vincent Saint-Vincent de - This ofthe ofthe also under the protection of the patron patron saint of the vine, has MAcon and represents the wines wines of the its headquarters in in Mcon its weil as tbose Pouilly-Fuiss. whole region as well those of Pouilly-Fuiss6. Les Piliers Plliers cbablisiens chablisiern of Piliers? It is not - Why this name of 'pillars of members are are 'pillars of wines', because because the wines', but but because the members Burgundy. This nicknamed the 'Golden Gate' of Burgundy. Chablis is nicknamed confririe has borrowed borrowed its name and its hierarchy bierarchy very lively confrrie grand master is architecture. The The grand is called called the from from architecture. the grandThe chapters are conducted with earthy good with earthy architrave. The chapters are yearo at at the Each year, humour in in a a Chablisien Chablisien cellar. cellar. Each the end end of joyous feast 'Saint-Cochon' November, there is the feast of of 'Saint-Cochon' November, there is the joyous ('Saint Sucking-pig'). Sucking-pig'),
CHAMPAGNECHAMPAGNE des coteaux This Champenois confrrie confririe is is the L'Ordre des the - This a Bacchic societyfounded revival of a society founded by Saint-Evremond, Saint-Evremond, le le comte marquis et le comte d'Olonne. d'Olonne. Boileau marquis de de Bois-Dauphin et alludes to in his The present-day to tbis this order order in his third third satire. present-day alludes satire. The confririe holds holds its its cbapters chapters in in the cellars or confrrie the cellars or estates estates of firms, as as well as in in other Champagne firms, weil as other parts of France, and great wines, abroad. Its are in Reims. The The great abroad. Its headquarters are in Reims. however, do not associate themselves with it.

la Journe vinicole, a publication dedicated to the study and h Journie are in defence Its headquarters headquarters are defence of of wine wine development. development. Its Montpellier. This confrrie confririe L'Ordre L'Ordre illustre des chevaliers chevaliers de de Mduse Meduse - This Provence, Cassis, Bandol, Ctes represents the wines wines of Provence, C6tes de Bacchic society society of ofthe Provence. ofan an ancient Bacchic tbe Provence. It is the revival of initiated in Toulon towards of the end of same name initiated in Toulon towards the same name the end Vauvray, seventeenth seventeenth century. The founder was Girardin de Vauvray, general administrator of the Far Eastern Eastern seas. persecutions Les Templiers Templien de la SerreSerre - To escape from from the persecutions Les of the Pope and the French King, Philippe Philippe le Bel, a number in Banyuls, of Templars Templars took Banyuls, which then a of refuge in which was was then took refuge protectorate They gave a considerable impetus protectorate of Majorca. They Eavea is for for this and the wine-making wine-making industry. It is to to viniculture and reason that created an when the reason the vine-growers of Banyuls created that when wines, they chose the patroancient order to publicise their wines, farm of la la Serre, situated in in the nage of the Templars. The farm vineyards, is their headquarters.
Pouilly La Confrrie Confrdrie des baillis de Pouilly - Based in Pouilly-sur1949, has as in 1949, as its which was founded in Loire, this confrrie, confrine, which aim the the excellent dry dry wines promotion of the wines of Pouillyaim the promotion Fum6. Each is a a tasting of these wines wines in in Paris Fum. Each year there is ta Confrrie Confr6rie des chevaliers chevaliers de la chantepleure Vouway La chantepleure de VouvrayChantepleure is is the picturesque name name for the tap, the Chantepleure the cask tap, wooden vine-grower places in the vat in order wood en spigot that the vine-grower it 'sings'; 'sings'; then to extract the wine. When When the tap to tap is turned it the wine'weeps'. wine 'weeps'. The wine dry or mellow, is Vouvray, dry still or or sparkling. sparkling. The wine is mellow, still year, in Twice a a year, in mid-June and and mid-September, an Twice an official official chapter is held in the Bonne Bonne Dame Dame cellars hollowed chapter hollowed out of of the confririe chalky soil on the banks of the Loire. This ancient confrrie was revived in in 1937. This, the most Confr6rie des chevaliers chevaliers de La Confrrie de Sancerre Sancerre - This, publicising the recent of of the the confrries confriries vineuses, vineuses, aims aims at at publicising recent wines, rivais rivals of the Pouilly wines, and is excellent dry white wines, situated exactly opposite the Pouilly vineyards, on the Berry bank of the Loire. Confr6rie des tire-douzils in Marigny-Brizay Marigny-Bizay in La Confrrie - Based in Vienne.

LOIRE VALLEY VALLEY -

MEDITERRANEAN REGIONREGION MEDITERRANEAN Le Conseil Conseil des des mestres mestres tastaires du du Languedoc Le Languedoc - This confririe concerns produced in concerns itself itself with wines produced confrrie with the the wines in the departemenls of Tarn, Aude and Hrault. H6rault. dpartements LoOrdre des chevaliers chevaliers du cep This order was created in L'Ordre - This EugEne Causse, editor-in-chief editor-in-chief of the newspaper 1951 by M. Eugne newspaper
264

CONVERSATION CONVERSATION

VAL DE DE LOIRE LOIRE VAL

Bailly de de Bailly Pouilly-sur-Loire Pouilly-sur-Loire Confr6rie des des Confrrie tire-douzilS lire-douzils Chevalier Chevalier bretvin brelvin Chevalierde Chevalier de Sacavin Sacavin

Les Entonneurs Entonneurs rabelaisiens rabelaisietxi What more more illustrious Les - What patron could one choose for the wine of Chinon Chinon than Matre Maitre patron Frangois Rabelais, Rabelais, born in in the town and great lover of his and a a great Franois 'Breton'wine. This confrrie confririe was founded founded in in 1962. 1962. lt It holds 'Breton' wine. This year, at one chapter chapter a a year, at the end of the end of September, September, in in the the Cave one at Chinon. Chinon. As is is the the custom, this this chapter is is accomPeincte at panied by a bountiful bountiful repast, excellent excellent wines and traditional panied bya entertainments. entertainments. L'Ordre des chevaliers bretvins This confrrie, confririe, founded L'Ordre - This in 1948 1948 and and based in Nantes, aims at publicising in based in publicising Muscadet, the wine of this region, as weil well as regjonal regional dishes. Les Sacavins d'Anjou This is is the the oldest of the modern Les d'Anjou - This confriries, founded in confrries, in 1905. Its headquarters are in Angers, and its its purpose It and purpose is to to publicise publicise the numerous Anjou wines. It organises large number a large of celebrations, chapters, chapters, and organises a number of tastings tastings in Anjou and elsewhere.
SOUTH-WEST SOUTH-WEST La mousquetaires d'Armagnac La Compagnie Compagnie des des mousquetaires - Inspired glorious memory by the glorious and his musketeers musketeers memory of D'Artagnon D'Artagnon and but of the but instead instead of of fighting fighting against against the the protectorship protectorship of Cardinal, Its headCardinal, it it rallies rallies to to the the cause cause of of Armagnac. Armagnac. Its quarters quarters are in Condom. Condom. La confririe La Confr6rie Confrrie des des alambics alambics charentais charentais - This is the confrrie of of Cognac. The purpose purpose of its celebrations is, of course, to make make the the famous famous brandy brandy even ev en better better known known and appreciated. La Confr6rie Confrrie Rabelais Rabelais de la'dive.bouteille'la 'dive-bouteiUe' - For the wines wines of of Gaillac. Gaillac. Le Le Consulat de de la la vinee vine de de Bergerac - For the the wines of Bergerac. Bergerac. La La principautr6 principaut de France-Fineau France-Pineau - This group, group, with with its capital capital in in Cognac, favours the Pineau of Charentes. It It endeavours to to make make this wine better known and and appreciated with with the the help of of numerous celebrations celebrations held both in France and abroad. La La Viguerie Viguerie royale royale de Jurangon Juranon - This confririe, confrrie, with its headquarters at Pau, Pau, has has taken taken up up the mission of defending and and promoting promoting the the wine wine that that was was so dear dear to to Henry Henry IV. CONGER CON GER EEL. EEL. coNcnr CONGRE - Large Large fish, fish, also also called called anguille anguille de de mer mer (sea (sea eel), eel), found found in in the the seas seas of of the the temperate temperate zone, zone, particularly particularly those those of of northern northern Europe. Europe.
265

Conger eels in an an aquarium aquarium

The best-known type is The is the the common conger, conger, the the flesh flesh of which resembles that of eels, but is less delicate. delicate. The conger used for making making fish fish soups, notably the bouillaeel is cruefly chiefly used baisse, but can be cooked in ways given can be given for eel in ail all the ways eel (see EEL).
CONSOLANTE - Glass of wine, beer or cider served to the CONSOLAI\TE team of of cooks in course of of their tbeir work.

CONSOMME CONSOMM - Meat Meat stock which has been enriched, concon(see BOUILLON, centrated and and clarified BOUILLON, Clarification clarified (see Clarfication of bouillon). bOUillon). For the the preparation preparation of of various various consomm6s consomms (simple For consomms, chicken, chicken, game, game, fish consomm6s, fish consomms) consomm6s) see see SOUP, Clear soups. soups.
CONTISER - Term for encrusting chicken chicken fillets, or those of CONTISER game or fish (chiefly (chiefly sole), with truffies trumes or other ingredients !ittle cocks' combs. These are soaked in cut in the shape of little order to make them. them. adhere adhere properly and set at egg white white in order egg regular intervals intervals into cuts cuts made in the fillets. regular CONVERSATION (PAtisserie) (Ptisserie) - Roll out a piece piece of puff CONVERSATION
pastry pastry @Ate (ptefeuillete) which has has already been been rolled rolled out out five feuilletie) which DOUGH). Set Set out out tartlet tartlet moulds moulds close close together on times (see (see DOUGH). times a table, table, moisten moisten each each one slightly slightly and and lay lay the the pastry on top of the moulds. moulds. Flour Flour a lump of of pastry pastry and press press it gently into the

COOK COOK
each each mould mould so so that that the the pastry pastry adheres adheres to to the the bottom bottom and and while opSartyles looked looked after after the the fires, fires, did did rough rough jobs jobs and and while the the opsartytes prepared prepad food food for for the the household household slaves. slaves. A A woman, woman, the the demiourga, demiourga, only only made made sweetmeats sweetmeats and and other other delicacies. delicacies. Women Women had had free free access access to to the the kitchen. kitchen. Other Other slaves slaves prepared ppared meals meals or or served served at at table. table. The The trapezopoioslaid trapezopoios laid the the table table and and washed washed the the dishes, dishes, the the oinophoros oinophoros had had charge charge of of the the wine, wine, the the guests. oinochoikos, oinochoikos, a a young young slave, slave, filled filled the the wine wine cups cups of of the the guests. In B.e., Athenian Athenian cooks, cook s, as as shown shown in in the the In the the fourth fourth century century B.C., Greek Greek theatre, theatre, were were often often slaves. slaves. They They played playcd an an important important judging by rdle rle in in the the life life of of the the city, city,judging by the the taunts taunts poets poets levelled levelled at their their pretensions. pretensions. 'They 'They were were artists artists in in their their way; way; their their apprenticeship apprenticeship lasted lasted two Iwo years, years, under under the the direction direction of of a a cook cook of of reputation, reputation, and during during this this time time they they wore wore the the apron apron of of the the apprentice. apprentice. In In order to to acquire this this difficult difficult mdtier mtier the the apprentice apprentice not not only only learnt learnt from from his masters, masters, he he was was given given books books which which set set down the rules rules of of his his art, art, and, and, if if zealous, zealous, spent spent his his nights nights studying studying them. 'It 'It was was only only after after long long study study that that he he could could aspire aspire to ta become become one one of of those artists artists whose whose names names were were quoted, quoted, and and who who became became famous famous through through the the creation creation of of a a single single dish.' dish.' (C. (e. Daremberg Daremberg and and E. E. Saglio, Saglio, Dictionnaire Dictionnaire des des antiquitds antiquits grecques grecques et el romaines.) romaines.) In In Greece, Greece, cooks cooks had had become become persons persons of of importance, importance, all the ruling ruling as as masters masters over over aIl the other other slaves slaves in in the the household. household. A A special law permitted permitted the the cook cook who who invented invented a a new new dish dish the the privilege of making privilege of making it il and and selling selling it it to to the the public. public. Many Many Greek Greek cooks left left famous famous names names behind. behind. Cadmos Cadmos and, according King of of Sidon was was cook to to the King Sidon in in Phoenicia, Phoenicia, and, according a result result of of the to legend, legend, introduced introduced writing writing into into Greece. Greece. As As a the only a a few burning of the library burning of library in in Alexandria, Alexandria, only few fragments fragments literature of Greek IiteralUre authors' names and the authors' names remain remain from from the the Greek of gastronomy. gastronomy. was rudiequipment was cooking equipment early Greek Greek cooking Although Although early rudigradually perfected. Caswere gradually mentary, mentary, kitchen kitchen utensils utensils were perfected. Casmade in gridirons were sometimes made were sometimes and gridirons seroles, cauldrons and in from Objects from precious magnfficently decorated. decorated. Objects and magnrncently precious metal metal and show their their Louvre in in Paris, Paris, show in the the Louvre Treasure, in Bosco-Reale Treasure, the Bosco-Reale splendour. like an an egg, egg' or or were shaped shaped like iron were bronze or or iron of bronze Cauldrons of Cauldrons a cover. cover. and a base, chains chains and with a a rounded rounded base, cone, with truncated cone, truncated common chutros, common and the the chu/ros, the chylra chytra and were the them were Among them Among (or pots without kakkabe (or the kakkabe without orna ornament, earthenware pOIS earthenware ment, the the pot, the metal basin, basin, the large metal the lebes, lebes, a a large a met metal kakkabos\, a kakkahos), al pot, pot, ancestor marmite. the mannite. ancestor of of the earthenware pot, olla, an earthenware frying pans, generally generally made bronze,and made of of bronze, and pans, Casseroles and Casseroles and frying we use use (the Greeks like those those we were like food) were pans (the fried food) Greeks enjoyed enjoyed fried pans with eggs, with cooking eggs, dishes for for cooking were special today. There There were special dishes today. row first row Athenaeus says: says: 'The sizes. Athenaeus 'The first different sizes. cavities of of different cavities gooses'eggs, to gooses' the peacocks' eggs, the second second to eggs, the belongs to the peacocks' eggs, the (Deipnosophistai.) These These utensils utensils third to chickens' eggs.' eggs.' (Deipnosophislai.) to chickens' third eugytheke' the eugylheke. placed on metal support, support, the a metal on a were usually placed were amphorae, double-bottomed amphorae, kettles or or double-bottomed Graceful bronze bronze kettles Graceful Food drinks. Food heat drinks. were used to heat used to double-boiler, were a modern modern double-boiler, like a the such as as the or metal metal utensils, utensils, such earthenware or was served served on on earthenware was the and the handles, and horizontal handles, with two two horizontal dish with kane, a a concave concave dish kane, pottery, bronze, silver or or bronze, silver from pottery, pazopsis, a dish made made from a deep deep dish pazopsis, plates served on on ichthuai, ichthuai, plates were served gold. Some dishes were even gold. Some dishes even richly vessels, richly drinking vessels, Greek drinking with fishes. fishes. Greek decorated with decorated poterion. patarion or or pOlerion. were called called pa/arion decorated, were decorated, were there were in Greece, Greece, there Rome, as as in In early early Rome, Roman cooking cooking -- In Roman was place. Cooking Cooking was Bakers took took their their place. such. Bakers no cooks as such. cooks as no cooks. no need need for for skilled skilled cooks. was no and tllere there was rudimentary and rudimentary (568 Great (568 the Great Antiochus the war against against Antiochus the war Not untiJ until after after the Not skilled employ skilled and employ have banquets banquets and Romans have the Romans B.C.), did did the Re.), important more important in society society became became more cook in The rle rdle of of the the cook cooks. The cooks. bring Athens to to bring to Athens sent to deputation sent the deputation of the return of with the the retum with and Letters. Letters. Art and Greek Art to study study Greek Solon, and and to laws of of Solon, back the the laws back
266 266

sides of of the the moulds. moulds. Half Half fill fi]] each each tartlet tartlet with with a a preparation preparation sides

of of almonds almonds made made according according to to the the directions directions for for Dartois Dartois

cakes cakes (q.v.), (q.v.), or or with with French French pastry pastry cream cream (see (see CREAMS) CREAMS) to ta which which some sorne powdered powdered almonds almonds have have been been added. added. Moisten Moislen the the edges edges of of the the tartlets lartlets lightly lightly and and place place on on them them pastry pastry rolled rolled out out thinner thinner than th an the the first. firs!. Pass the the pastry-roller paslry-roller over the the tarts, tarts, cutting cutting the the pastry pastry on on Pass of the the moulds mou Ids and and sealing sealing the the edges. edges. the rim rim of the Make Royal Royal icing icing (see (see ICING) ICING) with with 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 o2.,2 oz., 2 cups) cups) Make icing king sugar sugar and and one one egg egg white white worked worked well weil together, together, adding adding a a

pinch of flour flour to to prevent prevent it it running. running. pinch of pastry crosswise crosswise on on top top of of the the tarts. tarts. Put thin thin bands bands of pastry Put Bake al a a moderate temperature. lemperature. Bake them lhem at

COOK cutstNGnE-Woman CUISINIRE - Woman responsible responsible for for the the preparation preparation COOK. and cooking of food. The term is also also used used in in France to and describe describe a small household cooking-stove. cooking-stove.

COOKIES COOKlES - See BISCUIT. BISCUIT. wotd caisine cuISINE CUISINE - The French French word cuisine is used for of preparing dishes (cooking) (cooking) and the place place (kitchen) (kitchen) the art ofpreparing the in which they are prepared.

COOKING. COOKlNG.

Cooking is an ancient art, born when wh en primitive primitive man first tirst Cooking discovered that if if a hunk of meat was placed placed near the fire it it Some ingenious man easier to tasted better, better, and and was was easier to eat. eat. Some tasted stone hollowed found a way of heating water in a Slone hollowed out into a The spit basin. The clay vase vase succeeded this primitive primitive pot. po!. The and the pot, pot, however rudimentary in in the beginning, made as possible. Prehistoric Prehistoric finds such as many culinary operations possible. fragments of of pottery, pottery, flint and bronze bronze implements and traces fragments cooking. of hearths throw throw light on the origins of ofhearths ofcooking. described Cooking Cooking among the Egyptians and Assyrians is described BANQUET. under BANQUET.

cook Greek cook Greek

was the cook was the Greece the the only only cook In early early Greece Greek Greek cooking cookiry -- ln The name name a baker. baker. The real cook, cook, but but a not a a real who was was not mageiros, who mageiros, cakeo or or or kneaded cake, barley bread bread or madza, barley fuommagis, magis. mat!za, comes comes from knead. metto, to to knead. ftom masso, masso, malto, [rom Female exist. Female not exist. mageiros did did not the mageiros Homer's time time the In In Homer's to prepared the According to food. According the food. ground the corn and and prepared the corn slaves ground slaves exalted, however exalted, host himself, himself, however the host the Odyssey, Odyssey, the the the J/iad lliad and and the when friends when with the the help help of of friends meals with prepared and cooked the the meals prepared and cooked guests. distinguished guests. he received received distinguished he masters. for his his masters. well as as baked baked for cooked as as weil Later, the mageiros cooked Later,themageiros was and was de cuisine cuisine and or chef chef de archimageiros or In time he became In time he became archimageiros given assistants. assistants. given steward, a steward, slaves, under under a hierarchy of of slaves, had a a hierarchy houses Great ses had Great hou The opsonomos opsonomos duties. The definite dulies. had definite Each slave slave had eleatros. Each the the elealros. place) bought food, (ftom agora bought the the food, market place) or market agora or or or agorasles agorastes (from

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Cooks and and gastronomes gastronomes were were brought brought to to Rome, Rome, and and formed fonned Cooks a society, society, one one of of their their number number calling calling himself himself vicarias vicarius supra supra a Under Hadrian Hadrian an academy, Collegium coquorum coquorum coenas. Under coenas. was formed. formed. Cooks Cooks were were highly highly paid. paid. The The triumvir triumvir Antony Antony was gave gave a house house to Cleopatra's Cleopatra's cook as a reward reward for an adadmirable meal. meal. mirable In large large Roman Roman households, households, the the kitchen kitchen slaves each had In was the the coquus, coquus, who who resembled resembled the tasks. There was specific tasks. gros fi.res gros bonnet ('big noise'), noise'), the focarizs, focarius, who who kept kept the the fires going, going, the the coctor, coctor, who who superintended certain certain dishes, dishes, the the pistor pinsitor, who who was was kitchen kitchen help, help, preparing the pistor or pinsitor, various foods (the Romans had a taste stuffings, pounding various pures), and and grinding grinding corn for bread bread and cakes. for pur6es),
it it is is 45 45 m. m. (148 (148 feet) long; long ; and this this will will not not astonish astonish you you when wh en thinking thinking of the the banquets he gives and the the great number number of of guests, guests, freed freed men men and slaves, he has to to feed. feed . Here the tbe fireplace elbow-high, but but vast vast and made made so as to draw off off the place is elbow-high, smoke smoke because, because, in in winter, winter, a a house house filld filled with witb smoke smoke is uninhabitable, uninhabitable, particularly particularly if if green green wood wood or or ne\il new brushbrushwood are are burnt. bumt. The The decoration decoration of of the kitchen kitchen has has a painting painting representing one of those ridiculous sacrifices sacrifices made to to the goddess Fortunax. This is surrounded with witb paintings paintings of of all ail the food necessary for a great great feast: fish ready for cooking; spit; birds, hares hams; hams; venison ready ready for for the the spit; hares and and many others objects. The floor is made made of a composition used in Greece, producing producing a fine black paving, well weil drained so even those walking barefoot barefoot are warrn. warm. as the 'Near subsidiary rooms, 'Near the the kitchen kitchen are are subsidiary rooms, such such as (earthenware pots dolia (earthenware oleariurn is kept in in great do/ia o/earium where wbere oil is horrewn where a great 123 cm. (four feet) in diameter); diameter): the horreum where a such as as winter many many things things are are kept, kept, such winter provisions, provisions, honey, honey, salt meats, and ail all the fruits, the provisions provisions fruits, dried dried raisins, raisins, salt meats, and necessary household. These storerooms are under necessary for for a great great housebold. the surveillance of a a storekeeper called promuscondus, promuscondus, who supplies and delivers delivers them to checks on ail all the foodstuffs and supplies The steward sees to steward sees to the mainthe servants when required. The tbe provisions the the storeamount of of provisions taining of of supplies; supplies; the the amount taining shops.' rooms contain make make them resemble actual shops.' the Romans were were similar in The kitchen utensils used by the used by material and shape to those used by the Greeks. For cooking craticula. They also had a great meat, they used a grill, called craticu/a. ladles, ail pastry moulds, more or all more moulds, sieves, sieves, skimmers, ladIes, many pastry use today. less like those we use and eating the GauJs Gauls Strabo wrote: eating habits of the Cooking and - Strabo "The Celts eat bread small quantity with a a great deal deal bread in very small 'The grilled. Their meat either boiled, roast or grilled. Their rivers and and the boiled, roastor of meat provide fish, two seas fish, which which they them provide seas which which surround surround them two season with with cumin cumin and and vinegar as as oil oil is is scarce. scarce. They They add add season cumin to to ail all their beverages. cumin 'The ri rich drink wine, wine, which which they they bring bring from from Italy Italy and and 'The ch drink Marseilles, and is served follows: a and which is served as as follows: a servan servant Marseilles, t brings in each each hand a hand a a bowl bowl of of earthenware earthenware or or sil silver, similar to to a in ver, sirnilar from the the draws from wine. Eacb Each one one draws filled with with wine. marmite, and and filled marmite, wine and wine a time, time, but they drink often, often, and drunk at at a bowl. Little is drunk is almost almost always always unadulterated.' unadulterated.' is given below dishes. The The recipes recipes given below loved spiced spiced dishes. The Gauls Gauls loved The show their for strong condiments: their taste taste for strong condiments: show Method of and trim of preparing cranes cranes and and ducks. ducks.'Wash trim the the Method 'Wash and (or the put it it in in an earthenware marmite. marmite. crane (or the duck) duck) and and put an earthenware crane put Add water, Let it it reduce reduce by half and water, salt salt and and dill. dill. Let by half and then then put Add the whole whole into into a cauldron with with oil and broth, a bouquet a cauldron oil and broth, a bouquet of of the point of marjoram and When the crane is is on and coriander. coriander. Wben the crane on tbe the point of marjoram cooked, add add a a ]jttle little heated heated wine. wine. Pour Pour over over a a mixture mixture being cooked, being lovage, cumin, rue coriander, roots roots of of honey, honey, lovage, cumin, coriander, of benzoin, benzoin, rue of pounded caraway, with vinegar. vinegar. Put Put sorne some starcb starch in in the the and pounded caraway, with and your crane pan and and make make the liquid boil. boil. Put Put your crane on on a a disb dish and and the liquid pan pour the the sa sauce over iit.' pour uce over t.' 'Make this Stuffing for with the meat of dormice. 'Make the meat of the the this with Stuffing for dormice. powdered pepper, pepper, nuts, dormouse with with powdered nuts, benzoin benzoin and and broth. broth. dormouse put them Put the the dormice dormice on on a a tile tile after after sewing sewing them them up up and and put them Put in the They can can also also be be cooked cooked in in a a copper copper boiler.' the oyen. oven. They boiler.' in Merovingians Cooking and eating habits hsbits of of the the Franks Franks and and Merovingiaad eating Cooking 'Once established in Gaul, Gaul, the the Franks Franks imitated imitated the the luxurious luxurious established in 'Once example set Romanised Gauls. They ate reclining on by the the Romanised Gauls. They ate reclining on set by example couches in in dining-rooms, dining-rooms, around decorated with with around tables tables decorated couches The Franks Franks borrowed borrowed various various dishes dishes from from the the flowers. The flowers. Gauls, and and their their cooking cooking remained remained very very much much the the same same as as Gauls, that of of the the Romanised Romanised Gauls, Gauls, entirely entirely Roman. Roman. Pepper, Pepper, that plants honey, wine, vinegar, meat meat broth wine, vinegar, broth and and aromatic aromatic plants honey, (From l'Art formed the seasonings.' (From I'Art Culinaire, the basis basis of of ail all seasonings.' Culinaire, formed marquis de de Cussy.) marquis Cussy.)

Underground Underground Roman kitchen (rrom Antiquits civiles (from de Vog, Vogii6, Antiquitds de Syrie) Syrie) religieuses de civiles et religieuses

Many attached to the kitchen and dining-room. Many slaves were were attached The con dus managed the household, and ordered and stored stored condus the cellar, the the structor managed the the cellar, the food. food. The The doliarius doliariu.s managed arranged captor carved the captor food on on the serving platters, the arranged the food the meat, a reliable man, tasted the dishes, meat, the the proegustator, a and the aquarius was responsible responsible for the supply of water. (dining-room) was who In iarch a, who tricliniarcha, was the the triclin In the triclinirnn (dining-room) the triclinium pocillator, was the pocillator, a large household household today, the was like the butler in a who poured wine, a high-ranking high-ranking nomenclator, a and the who poured wine, and the nomenclator, protocol. servant, responsible for protocol. servant, responsible For a the Republic, Republic, Rome, and and under under the a long time in ancient Rome, pulmentus, made gruel, puis puls or made with the or pu/mentus, food was was a a gruel, chief food the chief pounded barley or (German wheat). was roasted, roasted, pounded This was wheat). This or spelt spelt (Gennan porridge like and like the polenta to make make a a porridge with water, to and cooked cooked with still cauldron. This was was made made in in a a bronze bronze cauldron. Italy. This still eaten eaten in in Italy. potages and Our terms potdes, potages and pot-au-feu for liquids liquids like potes, terms for (to drink). potare (to derive potus from drink). word potus from potare derive from from the the Roman word Under gluttony and and extravagant extravagant decadence, gluttony Under the Empire, decadence, the Empire, luxury cooking. of Roman Roman cooking. characteristic of luxury became the characteristic became the Carme, it was was declared that that it the Roman Roman cuisine, cuisine, declared Car6me, who who studied studied the heavy Romans carried carried their their refinement. The The Romans heavy and and without without refinement. taste measures had had restrictive measures extremes that that restrictive taste for for meat meat to to such such extremes to which Pliny Pliny tells tells us us ate elephant, elephant, of of which They even even ate to be be taken. taken. They only . He roealso of of three three roeHe writes writes also favour. only the the trunk trunk found found favour buck, Herds of of these these animais animals as a a first first course. course. Herds the table table as set on buck, set on the were set parks in Tarquinia. in the neighbourhood of of Tarquinia. in parks the neighbourbood set up up in The animals, to wild wild animais, The Romans Romans did confine themselves themselves to not confine did not eating puppies: dormice with chestnuts, chestnuts, eating puppies: fattened with dormice especially especially fattened acorns pigs kept guinea pigs called the the kept in in a a cage cage called acorns and nuts; and and guinea and nuts; gliriarium. gliriarium. Mazois, kitchen in in described tbe the kitchen Palais de de Scaurus, Scaurus, described Mazois, in in the the Palais the great Roman: house of Roman: the house of a a great 'Scaurus' 'Scaurus' kitchen its dimensions are enormous, enormous. kitchen is is arched, arched. its dimensions are

267 267

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end of At the period the the end of the the Merovingian Merovingian period the convents, convents, which which At preserved ail had preserved gourmands, increased all the the traditions traditions of of the the gourmands, increased had in number progress was great progress number in in France, France, and and great was made made in in cookcookin ing. ing. French cooking in the Middle Ages cooking in the Middle Ages -- Viollet-le-Duc gives a Viollet-le-Duc gives a French picture of of what what kitchens kitchens were were like like at at the the time: time: picture 'In the the houses houses of of the the Middle Middle Ages, Ages, chimneys chimneys were were large large and and 'In get inside high; a man could a man could get inside the the chimney chimney without without bending, bending, high; and ten people could ten or or twelve twelve people could sit sit easily easily round round the the hearth. hearth. and Inside these chimneys strong strong and these chimneys andirons, called landiers, landiers, were were Inside irons, called needed to to hold hold the put on the enormous enormous logs logs that that were were put the tire, fire, on the needed prevent them and to from rolling rolling into to prevent them from into the the room. There There were were and andirons for for the the kitchen kitchen and and for for other other rooms; rooms; the the former former andirons were complicated complicated in in form form because put to because they they were were put various to various were uses. Their Their uprights uprights were were furnished furnished with with supports supports or hooks or hooks uses. to take take the the spits; spits; they they were were surmounted surmounted by by an an extension extension in in to the form form of of a a small small brazier prebrazier on on which which dishes dishes could could be be prethe pared or or kept kept warm. warm. pared 'The division division of of stoves into sever compartments as in our stoves into several our 'The al compartments day, was was seldom seldom seen. The dishes were seen. The were cooked cooked on on the the tire fire day, itself, and and these these fierce fierce fires did not not allow fires did allow for for dishes dishes which itself, needed constant constant stirring, stirring, or or to to be made in in frying frying pans. needed 'The andiron-braziers, andiron-braziers, tilled filled with with charcoal, charcoal, were were at at a a 'The convenient height height and at a a distance distance from from the fire. fire. Sometimes Sometimes convenient they were were divided divided into into two two compartments, compartments, in in which which case case it it they possible to was possible prepare and to prepare and cook cook four four dishes dishes outside outside the was pots, suspended from hearth. Over the hearth hearth hung hung pots, from hooks or hearth. tripods; in in front front of of the the tire fire one one or or two two spits spits turned several tripods; pieces of meat. Only in in this this way way could could a a large large me meal pie ces of meat. Only al be prepared. prepared. 'Before the twelfth century, the twelfth century, only only roast meats and and boiled 'Before vegetables were were eaten, eaten, and and the the art art of making stews of making stews was vegetables almost unknown. unknown. What What was good c1ear was needed were good clear tires, fires, almost needed were large hearths which many on which many long long spits spits could could be be set, set, and large hearths on hanging vast cauldrons. space for for hanging The architects architects of put ovens in of the twelfth twelfth century began to put 'The kitchens, arrange food before serving kitchens, and tables on which to arrange before serving it. From Frorn the fourteenth fourteenth century onwards, sauces were much it. appreciated. Ovens were needed to Ovens were to make the many dishes which at the the big feasts of the time. which were were served at feasts of time. The equipment ment of of the the kitchens kitchens began to to improve. improve. 'In the castles and and convents convents of of the Ages, the 'In the casties the Middle Middle Ages, chimney was chimney was not not always built built against the wall in in the room kept cooking, but kept for for cooking, but was sometimes sometimes built built in in the middle of of

vaulted roof, roof, and and the the vaulted centre of hearth set set in in the room. the hearth the centre of the the room. the A kitchen kitchen like like this resembled a this resembled a tower, tower, open open at at the the top, top, A joists to without joists to separate intervening space separate the the intervening into floors, space into floors, without and with with the the diameter diameter decreasing decreasing towards towards the the top. top. Such a and Such a kitchen can can still still be be seen seen in Popes at at A in the the Palace Palace of Avignon.' of the the Popes kitchen vignon.' French cooking cookirE in in the the fourteenth fourteenth and and fifteenth fifteenth centuries centuries -French Information on on cooking cooking at at this this time time is is found found in tn le le Viandier Viandier Information Taillevent. by Taillevent. by gruel, made were a a gruel, made with Soups were with milk, milk, often often flavoured flavoured with Soups with honey, saffron saffron and and sweet sweet wine wine and and thickened thickened with with moyeux moyeux honey, (egg yolks) yolks) and and butter. Rice soups butter. Rice soups were were made made and and various (egg various garbures (q.v.). (q.v.). They pur6es like like garbures (sops). They were were called called soupes soupes (sops). pures Brouet was made of was made of ca calves' meat, with with fowl fowl or Brouet Ives' meat, or conies conies (rabbits) cut pieces, browned (lard) with cut into into pieces, browned in in sein sein de de lard lard (lard) (rabbits) with and crushed onions and crushed almonds, almonds, and and moistened moistened with with wine wine and and onions (hotchpotch) was stock. The The hochepot hochepor (hotchpotch) was similar similar to to brouet, brouet,but stock. but grilled bread grated breadcrumbs were bread or or grated were added added as as thickenthickengrilled (which did ing. Galimafre Galimafrie (which did not not have have its modern modern connotations connotations ing. with bad stew, mauvais ragot), ragoitt), was bad stew, was made made with with mutton mutton or with or cooked, chopped, chopped, simmered simmered with onion onion and and moistened fowl, cooked, with cameline cameline sauce. sauce. with gives recipes Taillevent gives recipes for for seventeen seventeen sauces, sauces, including including Taillevent sauce Robert, Roberl, so so wholesome wholesome and and necessary, necessary, according according to sauce to for duck, pork, eggs, duck, rabbits, roasts, fresh pork, eggs, salt Rabelais, for salt cod cod Sauces were thickened with bread. and other meats. Sauces

Italian kitchen kitchen of of the the sixteenth siXleenth century. century. After After Christiano Christiano di Messiburgo, Messiburgo, Ferrara, Ferrara, 1549
View View ofthe of the kitchen kitchen ofFontevrault of Fontevrault Abbey Abbey

French French cooking cooking in in the the sixteenth sixteenth century century - Under U nder Frangois Franois I, 1, the days days of of feasting and drinking, drinking, as recounted by Rabelais, Rabelais, were were revived. revivcd. The The first tirst real real cookery books books date from from this time. In 1543,la 1543, la Fleur Fleur de toute toute cuisine, by by Pierre Pierre Pidoux. Pidoux, and and in 1570, 1570, the Viandier de Taboureau, appeared. appeared. Cooking flourished flourished in this reign. reign. The refinements retinements of the Italian ltalian Renaissance Renaissance had had penetrated penetrated into into France, France, and French banquets banquets became became more more splendid than ever. ever. Menus included included fish, tish, fowl, feathered game and venison, venison, but meat meat and and vegetables vegetables featured featured little. little. Kitchen Kitchen utensils utensils were were now now augmented augmented by by vast vast copper daubiers daubiers (q.v.). (q.v.). 268

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In ln the the following following reigns reigns expense expense had had to to be be cut down owing owing

to to imperial imperial and and religious religious wars. wars. Prosperity Prosperity returned returned under Henry Henry II, II, and cooking made made rapid rapid progress. progress. Feasts Feasts were magnificent. A A meal meal served to Henry II II himself himself included a magnificent. profusion profusion of lampreys lampreys in Hippocras Hippocras santce, sauce, hot-pots, hot-pots, ducklings d la la Malvoisie, Malvoisie, slices slices of muraena muraena (an (an eel-like eel-like fish) lings
sauce of of egg egg yolks and herbs, ducks ducks d la didone, served with with a sauce served sturgeon fillets fillets d la la lombarde, lombarde, quarters of of roebuck, partridges sturgeon la tonelette, tonelette, and and a whole series series of of puddings such as darioles d and ichaudes. chaudes. cooks and end of the the sixteenth century, century, Italian Italian cooks At the end of Catherine pastrycooks came to France France under under the influence influence of pastrycooks maitres queux and Marie de Medici. At this time the Italian matres

(head chefs) world. They in the the world. chefs) were considered the the best best in remained in the taught the French many recipes which have remained taught aware of French culinary repertoire. repertoire. Cooks Cooks were already aware were already French rle and social importance. importance. their r6le cooking in the seventeenth century The reign reign of French cookirg - The King which the King 'hen'which famous 'hen' Henry IV is symbolised by the famous wished all ail his subjects to be able to put in the pot on Sundays. wished had little significance the reign significance during the Although cooking cooking had of Louis Louis XIII, XIII, it founded on on the impetus founded received an an impetus it received of Franais by by La in 1651, which appeared in Varenne, which La Varenne, Cuisinier Frangais the first book to fix the rules and principles of working, and working, and In 1691 1691 the the Cuisinier Cuisinier in cooking. cooking. ln order in to establish establish some some order et Bourgeois Bourgeois by Massialot, giving precise instructions, instructions, Royal et appeared. more varied, varied, was growing more appeared. It It showed that cooking was and people or royal or royal famous people after famous named after and dishes dishes were were named favourites. Menus o//a Spanish o//a olh -- the the Spanish mention the the o//a Menus mention favourites. removes and and podrida monumental removes hors-teuvre, monumental - multiple hors-d'uvre, entremets way. a logical way. in a arranged in entremets (q.v.). Courses were arranged During rather was spectacular spectacular rather Siicle cooking cooking was During the the Grand Sicle than fine or delicate. than fine or delicate. ln of the the utensils of XIV the culinary utensils Louis XIV the culinary In the the reign reign of of Louis Middle (see caisine (see de cuisine Batterie de replaced by a Batterie by a Middle Ages Ages were were replaced KITCHEN pots many new new pots included many KITCHEN EQUIPMENT) EQUIPMENT) which included and silver utensils utensils Later, silver iron. Later, and wrought wrought iron. and pans in in tinplate tinplate and were used. used. The in his his chteau ch0teau Fouquet in festivities of of Superintendent Superintendent Fouquet The festivities de were at Chantilly, Chantilly, were Prince of of Cond Cond6 at and of of the the Prince de Vaux, Vaux" and particularly particularly sumptuous. was matre maitre d'htel d'h6tel Vatel was The famous famous Vatel sumptuous. The of position. a very very important important position. the Grande Grande Cond, Cond6, a of the

and great interest in food, food, and interest in a great took a All Ali the grands grands seigneurs took gave their masters' their masters' interest, gave grateful for for this this interest, master cooks, grateful immistaken imgave rise the mistaken rise to to the This gave dishes. This names to new names to new dishes. they names they whose names by those those whose created by pression pression that dishes were created de Bchamel. B6chamel. marquis de withBCchamel,calledafter bore, as with Bchamel, called after the marquis preceding in the the preceding those in than those manners were were simpler than Table manners a true for a true heavily for too heavily XIV ate ate too Louis XIV Although Louis century. Although century. dishes served served having dishes of having habit of the habit gourmet, he he established established the gourmet, together, was thrown thrown together, his time everything was separately. Before his separately. in his his Boileau in by Boileau pyramid described described by miking a a monstrous pyramid making Festin ridicule: poulets tiques, itiques, de six six poulets liivre flanqu Sur un un livre Sur flanque de dome stique s, animaux domestiques, lapins, animaux tr o is lapins, S' i le vaient trois S'levaient Paris, dans Paris, Clevis dans enfance levs tendre enfance dis leur leur tendre Qui, Qui, ds nounis. dont ils chou dont ils furent le chou encor le Sentaient encor Sentaient furent nourris. entassCes, viandcs entasses, de viandes cet amas amas de de cet Autour de pressies, d'alouettes presses, cordon d'alouettes m long long cordon Rignait un Rgnait pigeons tals Ctalds plat, six six pigeons &t plat, les bords bords du Et sur les brttlis. squelettes brls. renforts leurs leurs squelettes Prisentaient pour renforts Prsentaient

pullets emaciated pullets six emaciated by six surrounded by a hare hare surrounded top of of a On On top animals, domestic animais, rabbits, domestic Lay three three rabbits, Lay in Paris, Paris, infancy in tender infancy their tender raised since since their Who, raised Who, fed. had been been fed. which they they had on which cabbage on the cabbage still of of the Smelt Smelt still piled up meats up meats of piled mass of Round this this mass Round pressed larks, larks, of pressed long border a long border of Reigned Reigned a pigeons spread out spread out dish, six six pigeons the dish, edges of of the And the edges And on on the reinforcement. a reinforcement. as a skeletons as their burnt burnt skeletons Exposed Exposed their
were quantity of dishes were gteat quantity of dishes agreat century a ln In the the seventeenth seventeenth century the of the many descriptions descriptions of are many and there there are meal, and served at each each meal, served at XIV. Louis XIV. of Louis table of royal table meals at the the royal meals served served at and 'I have King eat, eat,and the King seen the have seen wrote; '1 The cess wrote; Princess The Palatine Palatine Prin entire an entire soups' an plates of different soups, of different that four plates often, four that very very often, cut mutton cut plateful of of salad, salad, mutton large plateful partridge, a a large pheasant, pheasant, a a partridge, plateful piecesof harn, aaplateful good pieces of ham, garlic, two up two good with garlic, its juice with up in in itsjuice jams.' of and jams.' and fruit fruit and of cakes, cakes, and eaten 'All his life he hehad hadeaten his life And Saint-Simon, 'Ali to Saint-Simon, And according according to part as as past only thesoft soft part only the time past for some some time very and for little bread, very little bread, and and fine hashes hashes and quantities, fine large quantities, he in very very large no teeth. Soup in he had had no teeth. Soup atewas wasvery very heate Everything he eggs as aa supplement. supplement. Everything were used used as eggs were thecase, case, isordinarily asis ordinarily the asspiced highly spiced as least twice at least twice as highly spiced, spiced, at the that the Louis XIV XIV that to Louis due to and It was was due indeed.' It and very very strong strong indeed.' days, for tte fEte days, reserved for custom formerly reserved sweets, formerly serving sweets, custom of of serving was daily use. use. into daily was introduced introduced into great houses and houses and the great in the Menus copious in equally copious Menus were were equally chefs, masterchefs, andthe themaster among time, and ofthe the time, rich bourgeois among the the rich bourgeois of great deal deal meals had preparedthese hadaagreat or thesemeals who prepared or cordons cordans bleus, bleus, who to do. to do. judgedthe the Historyhas hasjudged French Regency - - History theRegency underthe French cooking cooking under years under if the under eight But, if theyears years of Regency severely. severely. But, eight years of Regency politically and andeconomieconomiPhillipe were disastrous disastrous politically Phillipe d'Orlans d'Orl6ans were gastroregardsgastrocally, asregards distinction as leastsome some distinction at least hadat cally, they they had nomy. fromthis thistime. time' datesfrom Frenchcuisine cuisine dates Thetrue true French nomy. The in great houses houses in While ofthe thegreat lasted, the theovens ovensof Regency lasted, While the the Regency giftedcooks who the cookswho andthe thegifted evercold, cold,and hardly ever kingdom were werehardly thekingdom and directed Trianon and Royal,the theTrianon PalaisRoyal, of the thePalais kitchens of directed the the kitchens the cely houses refined table table therefined tosatisfy satisfythe princely hadto houseshad the other other prin companions guestsof Regent. theRegent. ofthe theguest<; who were werethe companions who pastry.In vie The Inla lavie thepastry. hand-with the himself took tookaahand.with The Regent Regent himself prive 'Forthe littlesuppers suppers the!ittle privie d'autrefois, wrote: 'For Franklinwrote: d'autrefois,Franklin given prepared in inspecial special wereprepared thedishes disheswere given by Regent, the theRegent, by the rooms of weremade madeof allthe theutensils utensils were whereaU floor,where thesame roomson samefloor, ontl)e silver; cooks.' withthe thecooks.' workedwith oftenworked silver;the therous roudsoften The pictureof givesaapicture ofthe the suppers gives thesesuppers Themenu menuof ofone oneof ofthese brilliant prinkeyto tothe theprinThismeal mealisisa akey time.This brilliantcuisine cuisineof ofthe thetime. cipal infashion: fashion: dishesin cipal dishes First and garnished with carrotsand withcarrots beef,garnished ofsalt saltbeef, Firstcourse. course.Joint Jointof potatoes. potatoes.

Seventeenth (Marielle) c,o ok (M ar ie t te) Seventeenth century cenbtrycook

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COOKING
Two Two soups. soups. One One made made of of a pike pike cullis, cullis, one of of turnips with a duck thereon. lhereon. Two Two fish fish dishes. dishes. Carp d I'anglaise; freshwater fish fish consisting ing of of twenty-four twenty-four little perch and four little liWe pikes. Tm Ten entrdes. entres. Mutton M uttan fillets flllets larded larded and glazed glazed with gherkins gherkins on top; top; two two chickens stuck with parsley, parsley, espagnole l'Sf,IUXnOIC sauce; sauce; pike pike d Ia la polonnise; pololUlise; perch perch d la la geneviise genevoise (six (six peicli and one white wine); 0ne bottle bOUle of ofwhite wine); sauerkraut sauerkraut with one pike; twentyfive five oysters oysters cooked with with a pint pnt of of cream; noix noix de veau veau d la napolitaine; napolitaine: three three partridges partridges en en levrault levraull (leveret); (leveret); two fine fine eels Ia la bavaroise; bavaroise; and and half half a a hundred hundred fine fi ne crayfish; crayflsh; roebuck roe buck eels it kidneys kidneys in in marinade. marinade. Two Two dishes dishes of of pdtisseries. plisseries. A A cake cake filled filled with with apricot marmelade; marmelade; an an iced Iced tart tari (six (six peaches peaches iced iced and and a a pint pint of of cream). cream). Four Four roasts. roas/s. Fried Fried smelts smelts (crumbed), (crumbed), two two poulardes, poulardes, two fried fried soles, soles. two two wild wild ducks. ducks. Four Four dffirent salads, sa/ads, with with sauces. sauces. Four Four little hot hOl entremets. entremets. Six veal veal sweetbreads sweetbreads larded larded and and glazed; pig's pig's trotters troUeTS Sainte-Menehould; Sainte-Menehould; dried dried peas peas d /c la crime; crme; dessert dessert apples apples d la la chinoise. chinoise. Until Untl the the beginning beginning of of the the eighteenth century, cent ury, cooking cooking was was done done on the the fire fire and and on on charcoal braziers. braziers. Kitchens Kitchens were were provided provided with with a a stove stove called called a a potager potager which which had had twelve twelve or twenty twenly grates grates (foyers), (foyers), according according to to the the size size of of the lhe househousehold. hold. This This arrangement arrangement lasted lasted until until the the cast-iron stove stave heated heated with with coal coal came came into into use. use. French French cooking cooking under under Louis Louis XV XV - Cooking Cooking in in the the reign reign of Louis Louis XV XV was was much much the the same same as as under under the the Regency. Regency. The The nobility nobility were were very very interested interested in in the the culinary art. art. They They were were 'gastronomic snobs', snobs', and and wished wished to to have have dishes named named after after them, whether whether invented invented in in their their own own house house or or not. not. It 11 is is to to this this period period that tl1at we we owe owe Bouchies Bouches d la la Reine, Reine, named named in in honour honour of Marie Marie Leczinska, Leczinska, wife wife of of Louis Louis XV; XV; Cailles Cailles d la la Mirepoix Mirepoix (quails) (quails) and Timbale Timbale Pompadour. Pompadour. The The menus menus served served at at the the court court of of Louis Louis XV XV by by H6liot, Hliot, Ccuyer cuyer de di! bouche bouche of of Madame Madame Dauphine Dauphine de de France, France, were were grandiose. grandiose. Car6me Carme published publshed part of of these these menus, menus, taken taken from hbtel frangais. from the the original source, source, in in his Maitre Maitre d d'hlel Phil6as Philas Gilbert notes notes that that the the menus menus were were presented in in the the form frm of of placards placards 'whose 'whose dimensions dimensions are are those those of of electoral electoral notices not ices and and in in which which figure:4 figure: 4 ollas ollas and and S 8 lesser lesser soups; soups; 12 12 fish fish entrCes; entres; 32 32 entries entres and 44lesser 44 lesser entries; entres; 12 12 removes; rem oves ; 4 4 hors-d'euvre hors-d'uvre before before the the King; 2 2 grand entremets;32 enlremefS; 32 roasts; roasts; 2 lesser roasts 21esser roasts at at the the ends ends of the table; 2little 21ittle dishes dishes before before the the King; King; 40 40 cold cold entremets entremets and and 48 48 hot hot entremets.' entremets.' Many Many master cooks were mastercooks were needed needed to to execute execute such such a a menu. menu. In In the the time time of of Louis Louis XV XV a a number number of of culinary culinary books books appeared. The The most most interesting were were Ie le Cuisinier Cuisinier moderne moderne by by Vincent de de la la Chapelle, Cba pelle, published in in English English in in 1733, 1733, and and translated translated into into French French in 1735, 1735, and and the the Dons Dons de de Comus, Comus, which which appeared appeared without without the the author's author's name name but but was was written written by hOtel of by Marin, Marin, mattre matre d d'hlel of the the mar6chal marchal de de Soubise. Soubise. This This was was preceded preceded by by a a Discours Discours prCliminaire, prliminaire, remarkable remarkable both both for for its its style style and and documentation, documentation, and and attributed attributed to to the the Jesuit Jesuit fathers, fathers, Pierre Pierre Brunoy Brunoy and and Hyacinthe Bourgeant. Bourgeant. CarCme Carme thought thought the the work work of of de de la la Chapelle the the best best of of the the books books which which appeared in in the the seventeenth and and eighteenth eighteenth centuries, centuries, although he criticised criticised the the author aUlhor for for having having given given certain certain dishes names, disbes inadmissible m2ldrOlSSl names, such such as as Filet Filel de de boeuf boeufen en talon talon de de botte, bOlle, rnd and Potage POlage d la la jambe jambe de de bois, bois, which wbich he he found found grogrotesque. tesque. Among Amongthe the bourgeois bourgeois at at this this time, time, meals meals were were also also simpler. simpler. Brillat-Savarin Brillat-Savarin describes describes a a typical typical meal meal served served in in the the middle middle classes. classes. ln In 1740 1740 a a dinner dnner for for ten len people would would consist consist of: of: First FirSl course. course. Le Le bouilli bouilli (boiled meat); meal); an an entrde en/re of of veal \leal cooked cooked in in its its juice; juice; an an hors-d'euvre. hors-d'uvre. Second Second course. course. A A turkey; turkey; a a dish dish of of vegetables; vegetables, a a salad; salad, a a cream. cream. 270 270

Third Third course. Cheese; Cheese; fruit; fruit; a a pot ofjam. of jam. The plates plates were only changed three three times times - after the the soup, for the second course, course, and for dessert. Coffee Coffee was seldom seldam served, but but quite quite often orten a ratafia ratafia of of cherries or carnations, carnations, a recent recenl introducintroduction, tion, was served. French French cooking cookillg at a' the the time tme of of Louis Louis XVI XV] - During the first years of the the reign reign of Louis Louis XVI, the the tendency continued to to years of refine retine culinary methods methods and to to establish establish more more order and logic, logic, as as well weil as greater greater elegane elegance in in menus menus for grand grand galas. galas. Brillat-Savarin Brillat-Savarin writes writes in in his fft'sloire Hisfoire de de la cuisine cuisine of great improvements improvements in in all ail branches branches of catering.

multiplied multiplied on on an an ever ever increasing increasing scale. scale, . . . . . . Physics and and

'Cooks, 'Cooks, .caterers, pdtissiers, plissiers, confectioners, grocers, have have

chemistry chemistry have have been been called called to to the the aid of of cooking. cooking. The The most most distinguished distinguished intellects intellects have have not not thought thought it il an an unworthy unworthy task task to to occupy themselves themselves with our basic basic needs, needs, and and have have introintroduced duced improvements ranging rangng from from the the workman's workman's simple pot-au-feu pOI-mJ-jeu to to the the transparent transparent extracts extracls (Brillat-Savarin (Brillat-Savarin means means here here the the aspic aspicjellies) jellies) which which are are served served in in gold and and crystal. . . . 'The 'The French French cuisine cuisille has has appropriated foreign dishes, such as as caviare caviare and and beefsteak; beefsteak; seasoning such such as as curry curry and and soya; soya; drinks drinks like Iike punch punch and and others. others. .. .. .. Coffee has has become become popular, popular, in in the the morning morning as as nourishment, nourishment. and and after after dinner dinner as as an an exhilarating exhilarating and and tonic tonie drink. drink. 'Finally, 'Finally, the the word word gastronomy gastronomy has has been been revived revived from from the the Greek.' Greek.' During During the the reign reign of of Louis Louis XVI XVI the the first nrSI restaurant restaurant came came into into being being (see (see RESTAURANT). REST A URANT). Menus Menus of of restaurateurs resta urateurs of of the the time time provide information information on on looking in in general. general. These These included included 12 soups, soups, 24 24 hors-d'euvre, hors-d'uvre, 15 15 or or 20 entdes en/res ofbeef, of beef, 20 20 entries entres of of mutton, mutton, 30 30 entrdes entres of of fowl fowl or or game, 12 12 or 20 20 entries entres of of veal, veal, 12 12 dishes dishes of of pdtisserie, ptisserie, 24 24 dishes of of fish, fish, 15 15 roasts, roasts, 50 50 entremets, entremets, 50 50 desserts. desserts. French French cooking during the tbe period of of the the Revolution Revolutioll and and the the Empire Empire - The The author of Avant de quitter quiller la la table table desqibed described the the French French cuisine cuisine at at the the time time of of the Ihe Revolution: Revolution: '. . .. the the poor chefs chefs were were forgotten; forgotlen; a a new new austerity austerity preprevailed and the supreme supreme bon hon ton Ion was was to 10 assume assume a a spartan spartan vailed and simplicity. smplicity. 'But 'But the the pleasures pleasures of of the the table table never never lose lose their their rights, rights, and and the the new new masters mastcrs of of France France soon soon tired tired of of so 50 much much virtue, virtue, and and onoe once again aga in in in Paris Paris and and in in the the provinces, provinces, there there was was a a return retum to to good good living. living. The The chefs chefs of of the the great great houses houses of of the the nobility, nobility, finding finding themselves themselves unemployed unemployed on on the the emigration emigralion of of their their masters, masters, put put themselves themselves at al the the service service of of those those who who governed governed them, them, and and soon soon the the ovens ovens were were heated heated once once again throughthroughout out the the country, country, and and particularly in in Paris, Paris, in in the Palais Palais exexRoyal, Royal, rue rue Montorgueil, and and the the boulevard boulevard du du Temple. Temple. 'Men 'Men of of talent, laient, such such as as Brillat-Savarin Brillat-Savarin and and Grimod Grimod de de la la Reynidre, Reyniere, began began to to assemble assemble their lbeir observations, observations, and and to lo experiment PYr.,.,r,m'~f\1 in in order orderto to write. write.ln 1798, at at the the age age of of 16, 16. Car6me, Carme, In 1798, the man man who who was was going going to to write write the the new'culinary new 'culinary charter', charter', after after 6 6 years yeaTS in in a a modest modest cabaret cabaret on on the the outskirts outskirts of of Paris, Paris, started started as as a a pastry-cook with wth Bailly. Bailly. The The maison maison Bailly Bailly was was one of the leading Pans pdtisseries plisseries and and supplied the the prince prince de de Talleyrand, who who kept a a sumptuous sumptuous table. Two Two years yeaTS later later Car6me was was first n.rst pastry-maker pastry-maker in in this Ihis famous famous house'. house'. In In the the relatively relatively calmer calmer period perod of of the the Directory, Directory, the the great great bourgeois bourgeois households households reorganised reorgansed themselves, themselves, new new resrestaurants taurants opened, and and cooking cooking again again became became as as grandiose grandiose as as in the time time of Louis Louis XV. XV. in the Under Uoder the the Directory, Directory, an an attempt attempt was was made made to to revive revive official dinners and and suppers. suppers. Ostentation Ostentation was was re-established, re-established, official dinners and and magnificent magnificent buffets buffets with wilh enormous, enormous, over-decorated over-decorated cold cold piices were were prepared prepared for for balls. balls. Even Even if if the the emphasis emphasis was was on on luxury rather rather than than on on a a well-chosen well-chosen ensemble ensemble in in these these great great festivities, lestlvlltles. both both in in Paris Paris and and in in the the provinceso provinces, more more rational ratonal menus menus were were introduced. introduced.

COOKING COOKING

century early nineteenth nineteenth century in the the early A kitchen in

in arms and and in 'The passed in of arms in the clash of the clash 'The first first Empire Empire passed and immense triumphal fEtes and marked by splendid splendid ftes trumpetings marked triumphal trumpetings banquets.' (Varras.) sinecure' The position of chef in the Imperial was no sinecure. Imperial Court was The chefs ventilation in in the the bad ventilation chefs came and went. Was it due to bad kitchens, in the the established in economy established the severe severe economy kitchens, or or to to the household, which reduced wages 2,400 francs? francs? wages to to2,4N Among those who exercised Imperial Court, Court, art at at the Imperial exercised their art galas which which great galas and of the the great extravagance of and contributed contributed to the extravagance took most who was was the the most man who place, was the man was Chandelier, Chandelier, the took place, Helena, devoted 's servants, St Helena, him to to St followed him servants, followed Napoleon's devoted of of Napoleon and to the the applied himself to difficulties applied and in in spite of countless countless difficulties spite of task fallen Emperor. Emperor. of the the fallen the appetite appetite of task of of encouraging encouraging the great mas It ter master the great himself, the that Carme Carme rumself, It was was at at this this period that of rial for on French French for his his works works on material his mate art, collected collected his culinary art, of culinary cuisine his While continuing continuing his century. While nineteenth century. cuisine in in the the nineteenth innovations knowperfected his pafisserie, he his culinary culinary knowhe perfected in ptisserie, innovations in given ledge. great dinners dinners given at the the great Tuileries, at at the the Tuileries, ledge. He was was seen seen at by new where the the new Hotel de de Ville Ville where fOtes of of the the Hotel the ftes Talleyrand, at at the by Talleyrand, marshals amand amministers and nobility, ministers the new new nobility, France, the marshals of of France, great bassadors came, with the the great and at at the the Elyse-Napolon Elys6e-Napol6on with came, and Laguipire. Laguipidre. As come to to who had had come place of pdtissier he of those those who the place As a a ptisSier he took took the the the chef of of the Tiroloy, one-bme one-time chef the end end of their careers: careers: Tiroloy, of their Soubise Lecoq, of Cond, Cond6, Lecoq, house of Feuillet of of the the house household, Feuillet Soubise household, who Louis XVI. XVI. for Louis royal household household for in the the royal had worked worked in who had Carme with promoted under famous chefs chefs with the famous under the rapidly promoted was rapidly Car6me was whom gratitude in in rus his works. works. his gratitude and expresses expresses his whom he he studied, studied, and French century -nineteenth century the nineteenth the beginning beginning of of the at the French cooking cooking at Even period had very had very of this this period kitchens of equipped kitchens Even the the best best equipped mediocre rudimentary. were rudimentary. and cooking stoves were cooking stoves mediocre implements, implements, and Carme at the the hour hour of of picture of kitchens at of these these kitchens a picture left us has left us a Car6me has work. work. 'Imagine the of the as that that of kitchen such such as yourself in in aa large large kitchen 'Imagine yourself Foreign great dinner. Twenty dinner.Twenty moment of of aa great at the the moment Foreign Ministry Ministry at chefs going, moving moving with with coming, going, occupations, coming, are at at their their occupations, chefs are speed live great mass oflive massof Look at atthe thegreat heat. Look of heat. in this this cauldron cauldron of speed in

(yard), for entries, of the the entres, for the the cooking cooking of metre (yard), a cu cubic charcoal, a charcoal, bic metre soups, ofthe for the the cooking cooking of the ovens ovens for mass on on the and another another mass and the soups, and the the bain-marie. bain-marie' frying and the frying ragottts, the the sauces, sauces, the the ragots, the which in front front of of wruch wood in 'Add to a heap of burning burning wood heap of to that that a 'Add weighing a sirJoin sirloin weighing of which which bears bears a one of are turning, turning, one four spits spits are four piece of veal weighing weighing (a5 to of veal a piece lb.), another another a 20 to 27 kg. kg. (45 to 60 60 lb.), to 27 20 game. and game. fowl and (35 t045 for fowl two for other two l6 to 20 kg. to 45 lb.), lb.), the the other to 20 kg. (35 16 speed; tremendous speed; 'In this moves with with tremendous furnace everyone everyone moves this furnace 'In make right to to make has the the right chef has the chef only the not a a sound is heard; heard; only sound is not obeys' voice everyone everyone obeys. his voice sound of of his and at at the the sound himself heard, heard, and himself an about half half an for about sufferings, for our sufferings, lid on on our put the the lid Finally, to to put Finally, the air air does does that the are closed closed so so that windows are doors and and windows hour the the doors hour And in in this this dished up. up. And are being being dished as they they are dishes as not cool cool the the dishes not lives. of our our lives. pass the days of the best best days way we we pass way though even though We must must obey obey even 'But honour commands. We honour commands. 'But which charcoal which it is is the the buming burning charcoal But it physical strength fails. But strength fails. physical kills us!' us !' kills Physiologie Ia Physiologie Brillat-Savarin's la Restoration, Brillat-Savarin's the Restoration, During During the gastrothat gastroimportance that the importance gottt appeared, and shows shows the du appeared, and du got the restaurantsof ofthe In the the restaurants time. In at that that time. had at nomy and cooking cooking had nomy and of effortsof Thanks to to the the efforts flourished. Thanks Palais Royal trade trade f1ourished. Palais Royal their tastes of of their the tastes tosatisfy satisfy the cooks to and master master cooks restaurateurs restaurateurs and made in incookery. cookery' great progress progress was wasmade clientele, clientele, great in wasin cooking was theart artof ofcooking Louis-Philippe the Under reign of of Louis-Philippe the reign Under the lived King lived economical King about the the economical lower favour. Everyone Everyone about lower favour. Tuileries atthe theTuileries Dinners at with close to to stinginess. stinginess. Dinners with aasimplicity simplicity close presentation. in their their presentation. were were bourgeois bourgeois in on withan aneye eyeon always bourgeois, al Louis-Philippe ways with lived as asaabourgeois, Louis-Philippe lived thesupplying supplying of of caterers the to the thecaterers economy. assigned to He even even assigned economy. He The cost costof these of these pricesto to the thechteau. chdteau. The dinners at fixed fixed prices dinners at tothe the per head, according to head, according l0francs francs per dinners to10 was to to be be55to dinners was guests. importance theguests. importance of ofthe hardly make make couldhardly artof cooking could U nder such ofcooking r6gime the theart suchaargime Under 'bourgeois' ofthe the'bourgeois' inthe thereign reignof progress. was in progress. However, However,itit was gastronomic coteries coteries andgastronomic King famousclubs clubsand most famous the most King that that the restaurants metin in the thebest bestrestaurants were Thesesocieties societiesmet founded.These were founded. gastronomes desgastronomes Acadimie des and ofthe the Acadmie forerunners of and were werethe the forerunners

271 271

COOKING COOKING

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Diagrammatic installation installation of kitchen (after the Consrrucreurs of a kitchen Constructeurs associs associds de de Paris) Paris) Diagrammatic

A. Storage room: 1. Co Id room; 2. Refrigeratingcabinet; 3. Oven; 4. Marble-topped table; 5. Table. B. Ice creamery: 6. Ice trough; 7. Machine for breaking up ice 8. Motor turbine; 9. Ice cream containers. C. Kitchen: !O. Large central cookingrange; II. Spit; 12. Steam kettles; 13. Deep friers; 14. Grills; 15. Salamander stove 16. Tables; 17. Hotplate; 18. Mixer. D. Washing-up space; 19. Sinks; 20. Washing-up range; 21. Washing-up sinks for glasses. E. Cafeteria; 22. Oven 23. Percolators. F. Grill-room; 24. Grills; 25. Hotplate

Curnonsky. Although Brillat-Savarin had founded by Curnonsky. had predicted such an academy, its programme programme was nebulous. The brief Republic The Republic of of 1848 had had its its patriotic patriotic banquets, banquets, where the menu comprised only veal and salado salad. drniry tlre French cooking during the period of the Second Empire The Second 'the reign Second Empire may The may have bave been been 'the reign of electroplated crinolines and and prefects', plated ware and and tinsel, the time of crinolines but it it was also a time that favoured the caisine. cuisine. Magnificent Magnificent festivities and banquets took place place at the Tuileries, and in the banquets took various chteaux chiteaux in which which the court of Napoleon III III lived. The great dinners of the time achieved achieved perfection. perfection. The first edition edition of of the the Cuisine Cuisine classique classique by by Urbain Urbain Dubois Dubois and Auguste Bernard appeared. appeared. This work is still an authority, and has done more for professional professional cooking than even ev en the books of of Car6me, Carme, which which are are sometimes sometimes hard to to read. Among the great great chefs were Armand Gouft Gouff and Joseph Gastilleur. Gastilleur. 'On 'On ordinary occilsions,' occasions,' says Madame Madame de de Carette, 'the table table at the Tuileries was was rich and and elegant, and and the food exquisite (Souvenirs intimes de de h la cour cour des exquisite and and delicate.' delicate.' (Souvenirs Tuileries.) Tuileries.) 'One ate at almost almost all ail seasons seasons strawberries, peaches, little new of the the chdteaux chteaux of Vernew peas, peas, from from the the greenhouses greenhouses of sailles. . . . There were four double courses, (which means, sailles .... today, two entres, two two roasts, roasts, etc.) etc.) two soups, two two removes, removes, four four entries, 'The kitchens in the Tuileries were in the the basement basement and the the dishes dishes arrived by by lifts lifts installed installed behind behind the Gallery of Diana'. Despite the brilliance brilliance and delicacy delicacy of of food in high high social circles, circles, many many writers writers criticised the the cooking cooking of of the the time, time, complaining that it Courrier de Paris Paris it was was mediocre. In the the Courier of of 27 27 March March 1858, 1858, cooking cooking and and chefs chefs were were severely severely rated: rated : 'A 'A good dinner dinner is is a rare rare thing thing today. today. Gastronomy Gastronomy is is like like
272

poetry: it has fallen into a complete decadence ... .... decadence. 'The present present generation eats and knows not how to eat ... ... grande cuisine which it is the enemy enemy of that grande it is the which was was France's glory. The chefs are are the cause of this glory. this indifference, which which is blamed on us. us. They have muddled everything, spoilt everyeverything, exhausted exhausted everything.' everything.' 1867, during On 7 7 June during the On the Universal Exhibition, the June 1867, Universal Exhibition, of the three Emperors took place in the Caf dinner of Cafe anglais. anglais. The guests were ail all illustrious, The guests were illustrious, including including the the Czar, Czar, the

Old Old kitchen, kitchen, Hospice Hospice de de Bearune Beaune (French (French Government Governmenr Tourist Tourisi Office) Office)

COPPER COPPER

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Czarevi tch, King Grand I of Prussia, and and several several Grand Czarevitch, King William William 1 of Prussia, Dukes. A will be found under under the the this meal meal will be found A description of this heading MENU. per head, head, a considerable a considerable 400 francs francs per MENU. It [t cost cost 400 sum at that time. French early twentieth twentieth late nineteenth and and earJy the Jate French cooking cooking of the century end the end its peak since since the has reached its century - French cooking has of cookery books books Many excellent excellent cookery century. Many of the the nineteenth century. were Urbain with those those by by Urbain were written written at at this starting with time, starting this time, Dubois, Auguste Bernard, Gouffr, Favre. After After and Joseph Gouffr6, and Joseph Favre. 1900 (in culinaire (in like Escoffier's Guide culinaire 1900 important important books Escoffier's Guide books like collaboration de la la table table by by Plaisirs de Gilbert), Plaisirs with Philas Phil6as Gilbert), collaboration with Nignon, le were Prosper Salles, by Prosper Salles, were le Grand /ivre livre de de la la cuisine cuisine by published. Interesting works pen of master from the the pen of master works came came from cooks Werner, Dietrich, Garlin, Garlin, Werner, as Alfred Alfred Suzanne, Suzanne, Dietrich, cooks such such as prat. Bouzy, Alfred and Pella Pellaprat. Alfred Gurot Gu6rot and These instruction; often often These books only with with theoretical theoretical instruction; books deal deal only y there practice. The The fact fact that that the they gap between theory and and practice. there is is a a gap between theory were practic was proves that was highly highly written at at ail all proves that culinary culinary practice were written developed. present-day chef the same same must have have the chef must developed. The The present-day qualities of last century, century, of of the the last qualities as at the the beginning beginning of as those those at whom D6saugiers wrote: wrote: whom Dsaugiers Un quand je dine, dine, Un cuisinier, cuisinier, quand - Me divin Me semble semble un un tre Atre divin fond de Qui, de sa sa cuisine, cuisine, fufond Qui, du Gouverne genre humain. humain. Gouverne le le genre Qu'ici bas, on on le le contemple contemple Qu'ici bas, Comme du ciel, ciel, ministre du Comtne un un ministre Car temple est un un temple Car sa sa cuisine caisine est sont l'autel. Dont Dont les les fourneaux fourneaux sont l'autel. 'A cook, when 1 dine, a divine divine being, who 'A cook, when I dine, seems me a being, who seems to to me rules One kitchen. One of his his kitchen. race from from the the depths depths of the human human race rules the considers is aa kitchen is his kitchen minister of of heaven, heaven, because because bis him a a minister considers him temple, (See also INTERaltar.' (See also INTERin which his ovens ovens are are the the altar.' which his temple, in NATIONAL NATTONAL COOKERY). COOKERY). COOT. It has has dark dark moorhen. It Bird sintilar similar to to the the moorhen. FouLeuE -- Bird COOT. FOULQUE ftesh, not strongly strongly ftavoured. flavoured. flesh, dry dry and and not There in France: France: foulque varieties of coot in There are are several of coot several varieties foulque morelle, macroule, also known as foulque judelle, morelle, foulque foulque macroule, also known as foulque iudelle, crte du Cap (African or crested coot) and foulque foulque foulque d crAte du Cap (African or crested coot) and foulque
273 273

popuis not not so so popubleue It is is found found in in England England but but is bleue du Portugal.It &t Portugal. lar in the the U.S.A., U.S.A., but but they they lar as it was. There are are several species in as it was. There several species are are not not marketed. marketed. Lenten fare. fare. Ali All The as Lenten church as The coot is classified classified by by the the churcb coot is good eaten ways eaten It is is good a coot. coot. It apply to to a cooking a ways of a wild wild duck duck apply of cooking (the skin fresh, it is is shot skin is is oily oily shot (tbe immediately after after it fresh, if if skinned skinned immediately piece of and larding with aa piece of larding a casserole casserole with in a and smelly) and cooked cooked in smelly) and bacon.

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COPEAUX petits foars made (Twists) -- Small madefrom from sweets or or petitsfours COPEAUX (Twists) Small sweets a (q.v.). They given for are They are for langue langue de de chat chat (q.v.). like that a mixture mixture like that given squeezed tray, and and cooked cooked from a a forcing-bag forcing-bag on on to to aa baking baking tray, squeezed from in roundaa While still malleable. they thev are are rolled rolled round still malleable, in a a hot hot oyen. oven. While stick into twists. stick into twists. COPPER. - Metal many Metal used in the manufacture of ofmany usedin the manufacture COPPER. CUIVRE cuIvREcooking heat, and good conductor and copper copper It is isaagood conductor of ofheat, cooking utensils. utensils. It cooking pans have heatevenly evenly advantage of ofspreading spreading heat cooking pans have the the advantage and food right right through. through. and cooking cooking the the food In doses,copper copperis is one oneof of the the In minute minute but measurable doses, but measurable minerai in sorne foods. some foods. andin mineral elements in the the human human body body and elements in Copper poisons.ExperiExperilong regarded regarded as asvirulent virulent poisons. Copper salts salts were were long ments proved this like false, although althoughsalts, salts, like ments have long proved this false, have long sulphates (verdigris), tend nauseaand and tendto tocause cause nausea sulphates and and acetates acetates (verdigris), vontiting. vomiting.

COQ

Camier ) Coq au vin (Robert Carrier)

Also the French word word for cock COQ - Chef aboard ship. Aiso and a synonym for chicken in certain dishes. Coq is usual on
menus. pAte This dish dish is is prepared with with a a fine fine chicken, Coq en pte - This and not a a cock. It It is is much better if made made as as follows, follows, in the and old way: Remove the breast dressed chicken. Stuff breast bone from the dressed Remove gras and and truffies cut into large the bird generously with foie gras pieces, seasoned seasoned with salt and spices, moistened moistened with Cognac and with with sorne some delicate delicate forcemeat. Truss Truss the and the chicken chicken en (i.e. the legs inserted into the sides). entrie (i.e. entre Brown in butter butter on all sides. Cover Cover with a matignon, rnatignon, made Brown with 1 1 medium I onion, I small carrot, onion, 1 stick celery, celery, ail all with medium carro t, 1 small stick pepper, and seasoned seasoned with salt, pepper, chopped, softened in butter and flnely sliced lean thyme and powdered bay. Add 75 g. G oz.) finely e. (3 raw ham at the end of cooking. cooking. Wrap the chicken in a a pig's caul soaked in cold water, or in salt pork. Place on an an oval cau! (see DOUGH), made of Lining pastry (see base of from 500 500 g. base made frorn (11 oz., g. (lI 4| cups) flour, 300 g. l| cups) butter, oz., 4t oz., Il I egg, (18 oz., butter, 1 (+ pint, pint, ! l+ dl. dl. (i water, 11 l| teaspoons cup) water, teaspoons salt. salt. Cover Cover the 11 J cup) join the edges and pinch together. pastry, join chicken with more pastry, egg. Make an an opening in the pastry to allow the Brush with egg. a hot oven for t steam to escape. Cook in a 1 hour. prepared like this: cooked in pastry is more often prepared Chicken cooked Stuff the chicken and and brown brown it in butter, as described described above. Stuff Place in in a a terrine terrine which which exactly exactly contains contains it. it. Cover Cover with Place pdte dfoncer (as above). Brush with egg and cook in the oven. pte foncer Coq en pdte Pirigueux sauce should be be served served with with Prigueux sauce (see Coq pte should SAUCE). 274

a young chicken into Coq au vin (from an old recipe) - Cut a g. (4 oz.) diced Heat 100 g. diced lean breast six pieces. Heat breast of pork, and (2 oz., g. (2 50 g. c.rp) butter in several button onions in oz., i cup) several button onions in 50 in an put in the pieces of pot. When browned, put of chicken, earthenware pot. earthenware (q.v.) garni, morels a bouquet garni, morels (g.v.) a finely finely chopped garlic clove, a a with the lid lid on, or other mushrooms. Saut, on, until until golden. Saut6, with or Remove the lid and skim off offthe Remove the fat. Add a little good brandy, (scant pint, pour on pint, 2* litre (scant 2f, cups) flame, and then then pour on 1 cups) old fla me, and ] litre a good heat for 15 to 20 minutes. Auvergne wine. Cook on a heat for Remove the chicken and pour Remove pour over the sauce, thickened thickened with the chicken, mixed with with the pounded chicken the blood of the liver and not cook and sorne some brandy. cook the the sauce sauce after this liver Do not brandy. Do The sauce sauce may be be thickened with liaison, liaison, or it will curdle. The BUTTER), instead instead of the blood. Kneaded butter (see BUTTER),

LOT COQUE DU LOT - Cake made in the region of Lot for the

Easter celebrations. Easter (2| lb., Ingredients. 1 I kg. kg. (2i lb., 9 9 cups) cups) flour, flour, 6 6 whole whole eggs, Ingredients. g. (4 oz., 1 g. (4 oz., 1 sugar, 100 g. 125 g. I cup) butter, 125 g. ] cup) sugar, (4 oz., ! (l oz., g. (1 in long, long, thin (4 25 g. thin slices, slices,25 ? cup) citron, cut in "up) flavouring made of yeast, I cake) cake) yeast, each of lemon third each 1 of a a third essence, orange-flower water and rurn. rum. Method. Make a dough like Brioche Brioche dough (see DOUGH). risen, shape into an an oval oval loaf. Leave it to to rise rise again. When risen, a hot oven. Bake in a

of name for the strawberry-tomato, strawberry-tomato, of COQUERET Popular narne COQUERET - Popular which the fruit is edible. Cornmon Common in the south of Europe.

pnfffs FOURS joined A PETITS Two of these these are joined COQUES - Two

CORN
with with a stifffruit stiff fruit marmelade marmelade or other composition, composition, and glazed Fondant icw icing (see ICING). with Fondant
Pound Pound 500 500 g. (18 oz.,3l oz., 3-!- cups) cups) dry blanched almonds with 500 g. (18 oz., stifly beaten egg OZ., 2f 2<1- cups) cups) fine sugar. Add 12 stifHy whites. whites. Mix Mix well. weil. greasePipe through a forcing-bag forcing-bag into into balls on a sheet of greasePipe through proof proof paper. Sprinkle Sprinkle with icing sugar. Cook Cook in a slow oven. oyen. The also be made as follows: The mixture mixture can also Grind 500 g. (18 o2.,3] oz., 3-!- cups) blanched almonds and mix Grind with 500 500 g. (18 (18 oz., 2j 2<1-cups) whites. Add cups) fine sugar, and 5 egg whites. vanilla 50 g. (2 oz., { t cup) potato potato flour, I 1 teaspoon teaspoon powdered vanilla stifHy beaten beaten egg whites. whites. and 5 stiffiy
eggs upright COQUETIER - Egg-cup used used to keep keep boiled boiled eggs COQUETIER applied to to tradespeople wh en served in their their shells. Aiso applied shells. Also when served in dealing in eggs and poultry.

( Nicolas) (maize) (Nicolas) of corn corn (maize) Ear of

Coquille Coquille for roasting

COQUILLE filled with charcoal. is fiIled - Kitchen utensil which is Used on a a spit. Used for roasting joints on The given to to dishes dishes of of fireproof porcelain, The name name is is also also given tempered The deep deep a shell. shell. The tempered glass or metal made in the form of a shell of the scallop is is used same way. used in the same Various put in salpicons, preparations are are put in these these shells: shells: salpicons, Various preparations pures, These are are fillets, fish fish or pur6es, ragots, or shellfish. shellfish. These ragottts, chicken chicken fillets, covered grated breadwith grated sprinkled with in various sauces, sprinkled covered in various sauces, crumbs and grated cheese, oven or or under under and browned in the oyen cheese, and the (see HORS-D'UVRE, grill (see garnished). the grill HORS-D'(EUVRE, Scallop Scallop shells, shells, garnished). CORDE much pastry is cordie when when too too much is said said to to be A pastry be corde CORDEE -A water pastry is is as as as hard hard as water has in the mixing. mixing. Such Such pastry has been been used used in
leather. leather.

CORIANDER. fruits of this The rounded rounded fruits of this CORIANDER. CORIANDRE connNDRE -- The plant our, ({ inch) pale in in col colour, plant are inch) in in diameter, diameter, pale are about mm. (! about 5 5 mm. with an It and bitter. and a a taste taste both sweet and bitter. It an aromatic aromatic smell, smell, and both sweet is many foods, foods, inciuding including and to spirits and is used to season season many used to flavour spirits meats, cheeses, pastries. puddings and and pastries. pickles, salads, salads, soups, soups, puddings cheeses, pickles, CORKSCREW. with a spiral a spiral Implement with rrnr-eoucHoN -- Implement CORKSCREW. TIRE-BOUCHON thread, pull the the cork cork flat or rounded, used used to to puil which can can be or rounded, thread, which be flat from the is less less risk risk of of cutting cutting or or breaking breaking the from a a bottle. There is bottle. There cork rounded stem. stem. cork with a a rounded CORN Indian corn and corn and (Maize). MAS as Indian known as rra,c.is -- Aiso Also known CORN (Maize). corn-on-the-cob. plant is It origin. It American ongin. is of of South South American This plant corn-on-the-cob. This was the arrival of of the the arrivai Peruvians before before the was cultivated cultivated by by the the Peruvians Spanish Spanish settlers. settlers. Corn century in the the sixteenth sixteenth century into France France in was introduced introduced into Corn was and grown there. in the the It fiourishes flourishes in are now now grown there. It and many many varieties varieties are wine-growing wine-growing districts. districts. The grain is with tasselled tasselled tops. tops. a fibrous fibrous casing casing with in a The grain is enciosed enclosed in Its popular in It in America. America. It is very very popular which is makes a a bread Its flour flour makes bread which con tains a keep. Corn is proportion of not keep. Corn is oil but does not but does a high of oil contains high proportion relatively or in quite rich rich in in nitrogenous substances, substances, but but quite poor relatively po in nitrogenous lipids as it is is eaten eaten as regions it In sorne some regions lipids and and carbohydrates. carbohydrates. In
275 275

grains can can be polenta, cakes The grains be porridge or or bread. bread. The cakes or or polenta, porridge or cornflakes. cornflakes. grilled, boiled or made into popcorn or in French French cookcookis not not much much used used in Fresh corn-on-the-cob corn-on-the-cob is Fresh quantity. is eaten in quantity. hand, it it is eaten in the other other hand, ing. In America, on on the ing. B6cHAMET -- Boil Boil FRAIs A LA LA BCHAMEL ulis FRAIS corn i la bchamel. bdchamel. MAS Fresh corn corn-on-the-cob 1. I. Strip Strip the the cobs cobs Boiledfresh cobs as as for for Boiled the cobs fresh corn-on-the-cob (see SAUCE). Bichamel sauce sauce (see SAUCE). with Bchamel and mix mix tbe the corn corn with and M,c.is FRAIS FRAIS AU AU NATUREL NATUREL -I. MAS fresh corn-on-the-cob corn-on-the-cob 1. Boiled fresh Boiled milky. and milky. They should tender and should be be tender fresh corn corn cobs. cobs. They Choose Choose fresh with or without their their for 15 15 minutes, minutes, with or without in salt water for them in salt water Boil them leaves. not already leaves, if if not already the leaves, Drain the cobs. Fold Fold back back the Drain the cobs. separately. fresh butter butter separately. the cob. cob. Serve Serve fresh stripped, to expose expose the stripped, to also be be steamed. steamed. Corn-on-the-cob can also Corn-on-the-cob can NATUREL -uds FRAIS FRAIs AU AU NATUREL II. MAS fresh corn-on-the-cob corn-on-the-cob D. Boiled Boiled fresh green leaves leaves and and the the Remove the the green Sever at the the base. base. Remove Sever the the stem stem at milk water with with milkboiling water Plunge into into unsalted unsalted boiling silky silky threads. threads. Plunge (4] quarts, quarts, litres (41 (scant pint, pint, 2-!milk to to every every 5 5 litres 2l cups) cups) milk -!litre (scant I litre quickly for minutes. l0 minutes. quarts) water. Boil quickly for 10 5-!water. Boil 5] quarts) g. Mix 500 (American cookery). DE MAs rulis -- Mix 500 g. PAIN DE cookery). PAIN Corn bread (American Corn bread (9 oz., generous 2 g. (9 2 cups) cups) (18 oz., oz., generous 250 g. (18 cornmeal, 250 oz., 3-!3l cups) cups) cornmeal, l| tablespoons baking baking sugar, 1 wheat flour, 4 teaspoons sieved t tablespoons flour, 4 teaspoons sugar, sieved wheat (4 oz., in aa g. (4 100 g. oz., -!cup) butter butter in and 100 powder, I-!powder, salt and 1| teaspoons teaspoons salt I cup) bowl. bowl. (scant pin pint, 2{ cups) cups) yolks beaten with -!litre (scant t, 2-!Blend Blend in in 4 4 egg beaten with egg yolks ] litre (6 tablespoons, cream, cup) double double crea m, milk scant ! I dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, scant milk and and 1 * cup) whites, whisked whisked possible. Fold Fold in in 4 4 egg egg whites, stirring little as as possible. as little stirring as pans, pour into muffin pans, into into well-buttered well-buttered muffin and pour into aa stiff froth, and stiff froth, filling full. filling them three-quarters full. them three-quarters is This bread Bake minutes. This bread is for 25 25 or or 30 30 minutes. in a a hot hot oyen oven for Bake in served at breakfast. breakfast. from the the oyen, oven, at served hot, hot, straight straight from cobs Fresh rn.nls AU AU BEURRE BEURRE -- Strip Strip the the cobs unis FRAIS corn in in butter. butter. MAs Fresh corn (see PEAS). and proceed as PEAS). Peas in in butter butter (see asfor and proceed for Peas cobs Fresh re CRME Strip the the cobs rReIs A LA cniMs -- Strip uais FRAIS Fresh corn corn in in cream. cream. MAs (see PEAS). and PEAS). proceed as la crme crime (see for Peas Peas it la asfor and proceed Grilled cobson on aa Put the the cobs crurr-f -- Put uds FRAIS rRus GRILL fresh corn. corn. MAS Grilled fresh grains have gridiron have When the the grains gridiron and hot oyen. oven. When and cook cook in in aa hot swollen our, take cobs out good col of the the oyen. oven. take the the cobs out of are a a good colour, and are swollen and Grilled cob. on the the cob. or served served on may be stripped, or Grilled corn corn may be stripped, (Cr6ole cookery). unis EN rN Corn giblets (Crole cookery). MAS chicken giblets with chicken Corn en en suso suso with pouLET - Suso porridge made from SUSO a porridge made from isa ABATIS DE DE POULET suso AUX Aux ABATIS - Suso iS' cornmeal. andshould should be besimmered simmered not be too thick thick and It must must not be too cornmeal. It slowly long time. for aa long time. slowly for Cut pieces. Brown Brown in in fat fat and and add addaa giblets into into equal equal pieces. the giblets Cut the (3 tablespoons) little tomato tablespoons) tomato Add 22 tablespoons little water. water. Add tablespoons (3 pure off the the cooked, drain drain off pur6e and When completely completely cooked, and season. season. Wben stock flour. moisten the the fiour. and keep keep it it to to moisten stock and

CORNELIAN CHERRY CO RNELIA N CHERR y

Wash some cornmeal. Put it in the pan in which the giblets Wash sorne cornmeal. Put it in the pan in' which the giblets have been browned, together with chopped onion. Add the have been browned, together with chopped onion. Add the giblets, the stock gradually, and cook slowly.

giblets, the stock gradually, and cook slowly.

CHERRY. CORNOUILLf coRNourLLE- - Tart, Tart, red red fruit, fruit, the the CORNELIAN CHERRY. size of an olive, which is preserved in honey or sugar. It is which is preserved in honey or sugar. It is size of an olive, preserved in pickle, like olives, and usd for jelly. It is also preserved in pickle, like olives, and used for jelly. Il is also called a cornel. called a come/. CORNEI This word word l'las has the the following following meanings: meanings: CORNET -- Trus l. A twist of paper paper used for wrapping. 1. A twist of used for wrapping. 2. A horn-shaped pastry. 2. A horn-shaped pastry. 3. A thin slice of ham, tongue, or other meat, rolled into 3. A thn slice of l'lam, tongue, or other meat, rolled into the shape ofa horn. of a horn. the shape 4. Term used in butchery, in France, for the larynx of a 4. Tenn used in butchery, in France, for the larynx of a
carcase. Cornet for decorating. coRNET A ofconm. - paper cornet, Cornet for decorating. CORNET DCORER - Paper cornet, which was used for for decorating decorating cold cold dishcs. dishes. Replaced Riplaced in in which was used pAtisserie by the forcing-bag (pastry bag). ptisserie by the forcing-bag (pastry bag). Carme, in the Discours priliminaire du phtissier royal, Carme, in the Discours prliminaire du Ptissier royal, sayso 'I must give an honourable mention to the man who says, '1 must give an honourable mention to the man who invented the paper cornet, used to decorate and embellish inventee! the paper cornet, used to decorate and embellish our modern sweets with meringue. our modem sweets with meringue. 'I have been been told told that that this this ingenious ingenious idea idea belonged belonged to to a a '1 have fashionable pastry-cook in Bordeaux; others have said that fashionable pastry-cook in Bordeaux; others have said that it was another pastry-cook in Bordeaux. Bordeaux. Whoever Whoever he he was, was, l I it was another pastry-cook in am grateful to him for this delightful innovation; I regret not am grateful to him for Ihis delightful innovation; l regret not being able to associate his name with that of men of reputabeing able to associate his name with that of men of reputation.' This remark implies that the paper cornet was not usod in This remark implies that the paper cornet was not usee! in p&tisserie until the beginning of the nineteenth century. This ptisserie untilthe beginning of the nineteenth century. This seerns improbable, one thinks thinks that preceding centuries, that in centuries, seems improbable, if if one in preceding especially in the eighteenth century, the decoration of cold the eighleenth century, the decoration of cold especially in dishes and sweets had been perfected. dishes and sweets had been perfected. Car6me adds can use use the 'to form cornet 'to sponge Carme adds that that one one can the cornet fonn sponge fingers, crcquettes d la reine and biscottes d la parisienie'. fingers, croquelles la reine and biscolles la parisienne'.
carcase.

CORhIELIAN

W*{^

ch

Orezza
a

hi#s,#

tion.'

CORNFLOUR or CORNSTARCH. rfcurr or rr,rds - White CORJ"Ij"FLOUR or CORNSTARCH. FCULE DE MAls - White flour used for thickening, and in puddings. It is milled from flOUf used for thickening, and in puddings. It is milled from corn (Indian corn or maize). corn (Indian corn or maize). CORN OIL. uulu DE MAis Corn oil is CORN OrL. HU1LE DE MAS - Corn oil is used used extensivelv extensively in in the U.S.A. for salad dressings, frying and as a shortening in the U.S.A. for salad dressings, frying and as a shortening in baking. baking. CORN A variety of valeriana CORN SALAD. SALAD. uAcnr MCHE - A variety of valerialla also also known known larnb's as lamb's lettuce. letluce. This This plant plant grows grows wild wild in in Europe, Europe, North North America, North Africa and Asia Minor. It has been America, North Africa and Asia MinoT. Il has been imimproved by cultivation, and is eaten in salad. In Europe it is on proved by cultivation, and is eaten in salad. In Europe it is on the market during the autumn. It was brought to America in the market during the autumn. Il was brought to America in the early part of the the carly part of the nineteenth ninetcenth century century and and is is cultivated cultivated commercially and in gardens. commercially and in gardens.
Gastronomic Gastronomie map map of of Corsica Corsica

SPINACH). SPINACH).

Corn Corn salad salad can can also also be he cooked cooked like like spinach spinach

(see (see

COROZO COROZO - White White substance, substance, used used in in industry, industry, taken taken from from the seed ofthe fruit ofa palm tree. Corozo flour has been used the seed of the fruit ofa palm tree. Corozo f10ur l'las been used as bran flour for bread, but this is forbidden today. as bran flour for bread, but tbis is fOfbidden today.
CORRECT. coRRrcER - In cooking, to correct a dish means CORRECT. CORRIGER - In cooking, to correct a dish means to modify a too-predominant too-predominant flavour flavour by by adding adding another another to modify a

savoury substance. sa voury su bstance. CORSICA. Mediterranean island, which CORSrCA, coRsECORSE- Mediterranean island, which is isaa French French dipartement. Corsican cookery is simple. The Corsican is dpartement. Corsican eookery is simple. The Corsican is frugal. He no longer lunches dans le tiroir'outof the drawer'. frugal. He no longer lunches dans le tiroir 'out of the drawer', (the main part of his meal consisting of chestnuts kept in the (the main part of his meal eonsisting of ehestnuts kept in the drawer drawer of of a a cupboard); cupboard); but but he he eats eats dishes dishes based based on on fish. fish, shellfish, and other/ruits de mer,which are plentiful. shellfish, and other fruits de mer, which are plentiful. The sea around Corsica produces abundant fish, spiny The sca around Corsica produces abundant fish, spiny Iobsters and other shellfish. Lampreys and trout are found in lobsters and other shellfish. Lampreys and trout are found in the lakes and streams of the island. Corsica produces good the lakes and streams of the island. Corsica produces good

good good quality. quality. Arbutus Arbutus trees, trees, which which produce produce red red acid acid fruits reminiscent of strawberries, strawberries, grow gTOw in in the the Maquis. Maquis. reminiscent of Sheep Sheep give give good good meat, meat, goats goats are are eaten eaten young, young, and and there there are are fine-quality fine-quality pigs, pigs, from from which which several several excellent excellent types types of of charcuterie charcuterie are are made. made. Game Game abounds abounds in in Corsica. Corsica. Though Though rare, rare, the the mouflon, mouflon, or or wild wild sheep, sheep, is is still still found. found. In ln the the forests forests are are woodcock; woodcock; and and the the blackbirds, blackbirds, fed fed on on myrtle myrtle and and arbutus, arbutus, are are succulent. succulent. The The old old French French proverb proverb which wruch says saysfau/e de grives, grives, on on mange mange les les faute de merles (failing thrushes, thrushes, one one eats eats blackbirds) blackbirds) could cou Id hardly hardly merles (failing apply apply to to Corsica, Corsica, where where the the hunter hunter who who has has killed killed a a few few of of these t l'lese delicate de li ca te blackbirds, black bi rds, is is upset upset if if one one or or two two thrushes thrushes are are found found among among them. them. The The best best Corsican Corsican cheese cheese is is Broccio, 8roceio, used used for for sweets swects such such as as fritelles fritelles and, and figadones. figadones. The The ewes' ewes' milk ntilk cheese cheese is is sent sent to to Roquefort, Roquefort, where where it it is is made made into into blue blue cheese. cheese. Corsican Corsican wines wines are are varied, varied, and and some, sorne, without without rivalling rivalling those of Guyenne, Guyenne, Burgundy, Burgundy, or or the the C6tes Ctes du du Rh6ne, Rhne, are are those of excellent. Among them them are are those those of of Cap Cap Corse, Corse, portoPortoexcellent. Among Vecchio, Vecchio,Cervione, Cervione,Olmeto, Olmeto,Corte, Corte,and andthe theheady headyMalvoisies, Malvoisies, made madein in the theneighbourhood neighbourhood of ofCap Cap Corse. Corse. Culinary Amongthem themare arevarious variousfish fish soups, soups, Culinaryspecialities specialities-- Among some sorneof ofthem themlike likethe theMarseillq Marseillesbouillabarsse, bouillabaisse,and andflavourid tlavoured with with garlic, garlic, pimento, pimento, capsicunr, capsicum, and and saffron1; saffron; the theanchoiade, ancholade, similar similar to to the the one one made made in in Nice; Nice; various vaous hors hors deuvre: d'uvre; all ail
276 276

vegetables, vegetabJes, and and plums, plums, peaches, peaches, cherries, almonds, oranges oranges and and lemons lemons grow grow in in the the orchards. orchards. Corsican Corsican fip figs are famous. Olives and chestnuts chestnuts grow grow everywhere. Vines Vines give wines wines of Olives and

COULIBIAC
kinds of of shellfish and and other otber fruits fruits de mer, whicb which are eaten kinds
and his friends, friends, and retold this this criticism criticism to to his Saint-Evremond SaintEvremond retold in the the end end they they were were words so so often that that in the words they repeated the (the three after which which the the coteaux' (the three hillsides), hillsides), after called 'les trois coteaux' soon came came into being. Ordre des des coteaux very soon paste. The famous is is the one The mst most famous the one COTIGNAC COTIGNAC - Quince paste. at Orlans. made industrially at Orl6ans.

raw or cooked in a a court-bouillon. court-bouillon . Also Aiso deserving deserving special raw mention are are stockfish, prepared in the same way as in Nice; Nice; mention
langoustes cooked a court-bouillon court-bouillon or or braised braised; langoustes cooked in a ; various local fish fried fried in in olive olive oil, oil, braised, braised, baked baked in the oven, oyen, or cooked in fish various ways ways similar similar to those those used used on the mainland. mainland. various Other specialities specialities are the lonzo, lonzo , a fillet of of pork, typical of Other the country country (see (see LONZO);coppa, LONZO); coppa, a a highly highly flavoured ftavoured sausage; the prisuttu, raw raw ham; barn; omelette omelette au broccio; figatelli, figatelli, a prisuttu, a sausage sausage mutton ; ; assaignes assaignes ;: pebronata pebronata of of beef, braised braised beef beef flavoured ftavoured mutton juniper; missiasoga missiasoga made with goat's ftesh with juniper:. flesh cured in the

joint in the oyen. oven.

a means to to turn turn a culinarv term which means COTOYER - French culinary

made of pig's liver; ragottt ragot of of pork with with beans : stuffatu of beans; made

sun ; cabris and roasted or mississa, or stewed; stewed; mississa, sun; and cabiros (kid), roasted slashed, marinated, marinated, smoked and cooked on on a a smoked and fillet of pork slashed,
tripa, sheep's belly belly or or intestines intestines stuffed grill; a mixture mixture of grlll; tripa,sheep's with a stuffed with spinach, beet beet andfines and fines herbes, herbes, combined with sheep's sheep's blood, tied up up like like a boudin boudin (black (black pudding), pudding), and and cooked in salted cooked in salted tied water. water. Not to to be be forgotten forgotten are are Corsican Corsican polenta, made as as in ltaly; Italy; Not accuncciatu , a a stew stew of of goat meat or lamb or or mutton, with accuncciatu, or lamb potatoes; and small intestines intestines with sheep's sheep's small made with potatoes; tripettes, made and tripettes, cut into into squares, and lard with with tomatoes tomatoes and saut6ed in in lard fried, sauted cut squares, fried, various condiments. condiments. The is now now rarely de mouflon mouflon is ragoitt de The ragot various made, sinoe since the the wild have almost disappeared. disappeared. wild sheep sheep have made, More exotic incIude blackbirds which are are roasted blackbirds which More exotic dishes dishes include and wrapped in ; pitis; into salmis salmis or pts leaves, or or made made into in sage sage leaves, and wrapped woodcock with partridges ; wild boar boar with salmis of of partridges: cacciatore ; salmis woodcock d la la cacciatore; pibronata sauce. pibronata sauce. Among sweet flour; with chestnut chestnut ftour; are brio/i, made with brioli, made Among sweet dishes dishes are fritelle, a a tart made tart made Broccio cheese; cheese; fladne, with Broccio fritter with fladine, a fritelle, a fritter with Broccio a ftan, flan, vanilla; fijadone, with vanilla; with Broccio and and ftavoured flavoured with fiiadone, a panette douce, and sugar, decorated panette made witb with eggs eggs and sugar, decorated a bread douce, a bread made with (eaten at with cake decorated decorated with a cake torta, a raisins (eaten at Easter); Easter); torta, with raisins ; pine kernels with aniseed aniseed; pine almonds and and flavoured flavoured with kernels or or almonds mig/iassis, preleaves; prechestnut leaves; migliassis, cakes oven on baked in in the on chestnut the oyen cakes baked serves in cooked in and other fruits; chestnuts chestnuts cooked made with other fruits; citron and serves made with citron various various ways. ways. There cddratine. is also liqueur called called cdratine. There is also an an excellent excellent liqueur

in the As in the COTRIADE BOUILLABAISSE -- As COTRIADE or or BRETON BOUILLABAISSE cotriade, the the in the the cotl'iade, fish there are in bouillabaisse, more fish there are bouillabaisse, the the more better. following: These from among among the the following: These fish chosen from fish should should be be chosen (chrysophrys), sardine, Dory, daurade daurade (chrysophrys), mackerel, John sardine, mackerel, John Dory, gurnet, red baudroie a devil), red mullet, (sea mullet, conger eeJ, eel, gurnet, devil), hake, hake, conger baudroie (se etc. One or included. can be large fish fish heads heads can be incIuded. or two two large (on a Heat a wood wood fire) fire) in a a cauldron cauldron (on lard in Heat sorne or lard some butter butter or pale and ions in in it. it. When When the the onions onions tum turn pale onions and cook cook quartered on (scant pint, pint, 2* 2f, gold, litre (scant gold, moisten allowing 1 moisten with with water, water, allowing I litre quarters, thyme, cups) potatoes cut per person. person. Add cut in in quarters, thyme, bay bay Add potatoes cups) per and . Bring Put the the sliced fish on on top top Bring to to the the boil. boil. Put sliced fish herbs. and other other herbs of potatoes. Cook rapidly. the potatoes. Cook rapidly. of the Put pour in in the liquor. a tureen and pour the liquor. Put sIices of bread in a tureen and slices of bread in Serve potatoes. a large large dish, dish, with with the the potatoes. fish separately, on a Serve the the fish separately, on
COUCHER pdti force stuffing, meaning to to force stuffing, pt term, meaning French term, COUCHER -- French or forcing-(pastry-) bag bag pur6e on with aa forcing-(pastry-) a baking sheet with or pure on to to a baking sheet using nozzle. a round round or or ftuted fluted nozzle. using a COUCH plant, the rhithe rhiCommon plant, cHIENDENT -- Common COUCH GRASS. GRASS. CHIENDENT zomes as a a diuretic diuretic.. are infused infused as which are zomes of of which COUCOUZELLE fruits of variety name for for the the fruits of aa variety French name COUCOUZELLE -- French of grown.They They are are picked before it is is fully fully grown. gourd which which is is picked before it of gourd called zucchind in in Italy. Italy. and zuchetti zuchetti or or zucchini in France, France, and called courgettes courgettes in COULAGE grapes. Also from waste resuIting resulting from Disease of Also waste of grapes. COULAGE -- Disease Inadequate in kitchen kitchen work. work. inadequate supervision supervision in COULIBIAC pie. Plumerey (Russian cookery) hot fish fish pie. Plumerey cookery) -- A A hot COULIBIAC (Russian gives gives the n L'Art L'Art de de la la cuisine caisine franaise au recipe in the following following recipe frangaise au x/xe "sicle: XIXe; siicle: 'In pie is 'In St is made made with with salmon salmonand and soudac, soudac, this pie St Petersburg, Petersburg, this but (the most prized fish most prized fish in in with sterlet sterlet (the occasions with but on on state state occasions Russia). Russia). 'In fish, they are they are 'In Paris, have neither neither of of these these fish, Paris, where where we we have replaced given here here is isfor for twelve twelve replaced by The description description given turbot. The by turbot. to persons. It diminish it it It is is easy easy to to increase increaseor or diminish to fourteen fourteen persons. according guests. number of of guests. according to to the the number 'Take (4-inch) slice 'Take aa 10-cm. andthe thesame same lO-cm. (4-inch) slice of of salmon sakhon and amount 12square and cut cutit it into into 12 square amount of remove the the ftesh flesh and turbot; remove of turbot; pieces. ion, sorne and plenty of parsley, spring pieces. Chop onion, chivesand springon some chives Chop plenty of parsley, two ail baskets) putthem (small and put inaa punnets (sm ofmushrooms mushroomsand them in two punnets baskets) of ; salt ; pepper; large (8oz., pepper; g.(8 pan with cup) butter salt; large saut with 225 225 g. oz.,JI cup) butter; saut6pan allspice; clove; nutmeg nutmeg and andcinnamon. cinnamon. When When they are they are allspice; clove; softened, put in piecesof glass Madeira, Madeira, put inthe fishand and softened, add add1I glass thepieces of fish simmer gently until simmer gently until cooked. cooked. Take fish and good pieces of Take out andlet let them themcool. cool. Put Putaagood out the the pieces offish tablespoon (se SAUCE) Espagnole sauce sauce(see SAUCE)into into the the fines tablespoon Espagnole fines herbes, put in foruse lateron. on. basin for uselater andput inaabasin herbes, boil boil down, down, and 'Hard-boil 6 eggs op the 'Hard-boil6 yolks.Put Put whitesand andthe theyolks. eggs and andch chop thewhites 225 me (buckwheat) into (8 oz.) pan with g. (8 into aapan withthe 225 g. oz.) kache kache(buckwheat) thesa same volume and saIt. When ititbegins salt. When beginsto to water,sorne volume of of water, some butter, butter, and boil, (2oz., g.(2 from the heat. Mix Mix in in50 50g. oz.,!I cup) cup)fine fine removefrom theheat. boil, remove butter, Thebuckwheat for 15 15or 20minutes. minutes.The will andcook cookfor or20 buckwheat will butter, and swell grains must mustbe fromone one beseparate separate from rice;the likeIndian Indian rice; thegrains swelllike another. plate. another. Pour Pour out out onto onto aaplate. 'Take (seeDOUGH), 'Takesorne lessfine DOUGH),Jess finethan than Brioche dough dough (see some Brioche usual. one 2lcm. cm. into22sheets, sheets, one21 Makeititinto Roll itit out outtwice. twice.Make usual. Roll (1 (l inch) Laythe thethicker thicker one oneon onaa theother. other. Lay inch) thicker thicker than than the 277 277

COTEAUX, - The name given in in name coteaux coteaux was was given DES-The COTEAUX, ORDRE ORDRE DES the people of refined taste, taste, who who not not of refined seventeenth century century to to people the seventeenth only had the wines, but the were able able to distinguish the the best best wines, but had only were to distinguisb same good living. living. which concerned concerned good for everything everything which same taste taste for The poet, de wrote: The poet, Villiers, wrote: de Villiers, Ces hommes admirables, Ces hommes admirables, Ces petits dlicats, tables, ces vrais vrais amis amis de de tables, dilicats, ces Ces petits Eux souverains, qu'on en peut nommer dignes souverains, Eux qu'on nommer les les dignes en peut Savent tous les coteaux o croissent les vins. bons vins. Savent tous les coteaux oil croissent les bons Et goftt leur cette science, science, Et leur acquh cette leur got leur ayant ayant acquis Du grand nom en France. France. on les les appelle appelle en de Coteaux Coteaux on Du grand nom de These men, admirable men, These admirable These good living, living, people, these friends of of good true friends These fastidious fastidious people, these true One worthy sovereigns, sovereigns, One can can name name them them worthy They good wine wine which the the good They who know ail all the the slopes slopes on on which who know grows. grows. Their taste, acquired through through taste, Their science having been been acquired science having They great name name of of Coteaux. Coteaux. in France France by the great They are are called called in by the Connoisseurs jokingly called 'profts good living living were called 'profs were jokingly of good Connoisseurs of dans dans l'ordre l'ordre des des coteaux'. coteaux'. The follows : One day M. Lavardin, The origin is as origin of title is as follows: One day M. Lavardin, of this this title Bishop who was was Bishop of was chaffing chaffing Saint-Evremond, Saint-Evremond, who of Mans, Mans, was dining 'These gentlemen', gentlemen', he he refinement. 'These his refinement. with him, him, on on his dining with of comte d'Olonne and of the marquis said, speaking de said, speaking of comte d'Olonne and of the marquis de Bois-Dauphin, 'exaggerate everything from the the need need to to Bois-Dauphin, 'exaggerate everything from refine wine drink unless unless the the wine refine everything. They are are not not able able to to drink everything. They cornes Haut-Villiers, or or Ai, of of Haut-Villiers, comes from from one of the the hillsides hillsides of of Ai, one of Avenau.' Avenau.'

COULIS COULIS
baking sheet, sheet, spread spread sorne some buckwheat buckwheat on it, then on it, then a a layer layer of of baking fish, another another layer layer of of buckwheat, buckwheat, fines herbes, sauce, sauce, the the fish, fines herbes, eggs, and and so so on, on, until until everything everything is is used. used. Coyer Cover with with the the eggs, second sheet dough, tri sheet of of dough, trim, moisten the the edges, edges, and and draw draw up up m, moisten second the edges edges of lower sheet of the the lower sheet so so that that it it covers covers the of the the the edge edge of the pie must The pie upper. The must be be the the shape pantin in shape of of what what is is called called a a pantin in upper. Paris. Moisten Moisten it it outside outside and and coyer lightly with cover lightly with breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. Paris. gentle oyen Put it it in in a a gentle oven for for 1 l| hours, and and serve serve straight straight from from Put -! hours, the oyen, oven, with with melted melted butter.' butter.' the poulet Petib coulibiacs coulibiacs de (Russian chicken de poulet i la la russe russe (Russian pie) chicken pie) Petits (Plumerey's recipe) parsley, mushrooms recipe) mushrooms and and spring spring (Plumerey's 'Chop parsley, -'Chop and cook onions, and cook them them in in butter. little blanched, butter. Add Add a a little blanched, onions, pepper and chopped horseradish, horseradish, salt, grated nutmeg. salt, pepper and grated nutmeg. chopped When this is browned, this seasoning seasoning is add a browned, add a small small spoonful spoonful When (see SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). Boil Boil down, down, and and take take off off the the Espagnole sauce heat. Add Add cooked cooked breast chicken cut breast of of chicken cut into into large large dice, dice, heat. (4 oz., g. (4 good 100 g. oz., l* cup) cup) rice rice which which has has been been cooked cooked in in good 100 consomm6, and and chopped plate to chopped hard-boiled eggs. eggs. Put Put on on a a plate to consomm, cool. cool. 'Roll out puff pastry pastry four out sorne some puff four times. Let it times. Let it rest rest for for 10 l0 'Roll minutes, roll it out patties and out to a a thickness thickness suitable little patties for !ittle and suitable for minutes, cut them pastry on them out. out. Lay Lay 24 24 rounds rounds of of pastry a damp damp metal metal on a cut and moisten sheet and moisten them. Put a a lump lump of them. Put the mixture mixture on of the on each, each, sheet press together cover and and press together to to close. close. Moisten Moisten them, and them, and coyer grated breadcrumbs. sprinkle with freshly grated breadcrumbs. 'Cook in a a medium oyen give them oven for 25 25 to to 30 30 minutes; give them a a 'Cook good colom colour and and serve.' good are served served as as a a hot entre. enffie. These patties are past, sauces COUI,IS In the the past, general were sauces in in general were called COULIS called coulis coulis - ln (cullis). More precisely, precisely, coulis are the juices which run out of (cullis). of the meat during cooking. the authors say pur6es should Some authors say that liquid pures that liquid should be called Sorne be called couliso and and that that this this word word should should not not be coulis, be used used except except for for pur6es, game pures, pur6es, fish pur6es and fish pures and those of chicken pures, shellofshellfish and and vegetables. Some of these coulis can can be be served served as as soup. Sorne soup. The principal h la reine. type is potage potage juice, coulis is what we call veal As well veal stock stock (fonds weil as juice, de Qfonds de veau'1, Car6me called blond blond de de veau. vesu. veau), and what Carme In modern practice the word coulis is is often used ln used for thick soups pur6e of are made with a a pure of shellfish: shellfish: coulis made with soups which which are (crayfish cullis), d Ccrevisses (craynsh (crab), de coulis de de crabes crabes (crab), cullis), coulis d'crevisses de (lobster), de homard (prawns), is de crevettes is often crevettes (prawns), homard (lobster), often used instead etc. instead of of bisque bisque d'icrevisses, d'crevisses, etc.

COUP DE DE VIN YINThe amount amount ofwine COUP - The of wine that that can can be drunk in inaa bedrunk gulp. single gulp. single COUPE JACQUES JACQUFS -- Fruit Fruit soaked soaked in in liqueurs liqueurs and COUPE and covered covered (see ICE with various various ices ices (see ICE CREA CREAMS MS AND with AND ICES). ICES). COURGETTES -- See ITALIAN See IT MARROWS. COURGETTES ALlAN MARROWS.

COIJLOMMIERS CHEESE See CHEESE. COULOMMIERS CHEE SE CHEESE. - See

a commerCOUPAGE - Mixing Mixing of of various wines to obtain a cial blend of of colour, col our, strength, and uniform unifonn taste.

COUP D'AVANT wine, of liqueur or D'AVANT - The The glass of wine, or any alcohol a1cohol which which is taken immediately immediately before before a meal. This term is hardly used now. generous now. It is is used more often often for the generous glass glass of of wine which is drunk after the soup. This custom has been been passed passed from generation to generation, and is still found found in different different countries, countries, in particular in rural communities. communities. The picturesque language language of of the Middle Ages gave names to to the the different drinks drinks which which were imbibed imbibed in in particular circumstances. circumstances. At court, court, and among the great, great, there there was the vin vin &t du coucher (night-cap); in the the middle of the the meal, the coup coup dt du milieu milieu (this custom still exists in Champagne). At a time travelled except except on horseback the time when when hardly hardly anyone travelled glass glass of wine wine which which was taken taken when setting out was was given given the name of of coup coup de l'dtrier l'trier (stirrup cup). the name

(liquid) in COURT-BOUILLON -- An An aromatic COURT-BOUILLON aromatic liquor liquor (liquid) in which meat, meat, fish fish and and various various vegetables vegetables are which are cooked. cooked. grecqug for Court-bouillon l, la grecque, I, I la Court-bouillon for marinating marinating vegetables. vegetables. pouR LGUMES couRT-BourrloN A LA LA GRECQUE, cREceuE, POUR COURT-BOUILLON t fcuvrrs MARINS rue.nluns -(6 tablespoons, Put 1 I dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, scant pints, scant -! Put cup) olive olive oil, oil, 7 7dl. dl. (l{ pints, * cup) juice of pints) water l| water and and the the strained strained juice lemons in pan. -! pints) 1 2 lemons of 2 in aa pan. garni of Add a a bouquet parsley roots, bouquet garni Add of parsley roots, celery, celery, fennel, fennel, thyme, thyme, 12 to 15 coriander bay; 12 to 15 coriander seeds bay; seeds and and the the same same number number of of peppercorns. Boil Boil for for 20 peppercorns. 20 minutes. minutes. Use Use according according to to instrucinstructions. This This amount amount is is enough tions. enough for for 25 25 to to 30 30 small small artichokes artichokes or or quantity of an equal equal quantity prepared an other vegetables ofother vegetables prepared grecque. d la la grecque. grecque, for Court-bouillon II, Court-bouillon If, i la h grecque, for marinating marinatirg fish. fish. pouR POISSONS porssoNs MARINS COURT-BOUILLON couRT-Bor.nnoN A LA LA GRECQUE, cREceuE, POUR umrNfs -(4 oz., g. (4 Gently Gently simmer simmer 100 100 g. I cup) finely chopped oz., 1 cup) finely chopped onion onion in in (* pin pint, dl. (! cup) olive I-! t, t olive oil. oil. Do Do not not allow allow the the onion to onion to U dl. f cup) ({ pint, Moisten with pint, t3 cup) brown. Moisten brown. with I-! 1| dl. dl. (! cup) white white wine, wine, I-! l} dl. dl. juice of (! cup) water water and and the the strained lemon. strained juice I lemon. of 1 Q pint, t 3 cup) garlic clove, Add Add an an unpeeled, unpeeled, crushed garni of crushed garlic clove, a a bouquet bouquet garni of parsley roots, 2 parsley roots, a 2 a sprig of thyme, thyme, a a bay leaf, and and a sprig of a sprig bay leaf, sprig of of fresh fennel; fennel; 10 l0 or 12 coriander or 12 coriander seeds, pimentos, and 2 2 sweet seeds, and sweet pimentos, skinned skinned and and cut into strips. cut into strips. Season Season with with lf teaspoon teaspoon salt and salt and pinch of ground pepper. a a pinch freshly ground of freshly Boil for for 15 15 minutes. Boil minutes. Use Use according according to to the the recipe. recipe. This This amount of (generous 1 amount is enough court-bouillonis of court-bouillon g. (generous enough for for 500 500 g. I lb.) lb.) (net weight). fish fish (net weight). Court-bouillon III, III, salt salt water. water. COURT-BOUILLON couRT-Bourrr,oN A L'EAU r'El,u SALE slrm -- This This consists consists of of salt salt water water in in the the proportion of 1] of I-! (scant quart, teaspoons salt I litre (scant quart, generous to 1 generous quart) quart) water. salt to water. It is is used poach various It perch, sea used to to poach various fish fish such as sea dace, such as sea perch, sea dace, coalfish, cod, cod, white fish, fish, haddock, haddock, etc. etc. Court-bouillon Court-bouillon IV, IV, for for salmon salmon and trout. COURTard salmon salmon trout. couRTpouR SAUMONS BOUILLON BourLLoN POUR sAUMoNs ET ET TRUITES TRUrrEs SAUMONES slurrloNfrs -- Made Made with with juice or water; water; lemon juice vinegar; sliced or vinegar; sliced onions onions and and carrots; carrots; parsley; thyme; parsley; peppercorns. These thyme; bay leaf; salt salt and bay leaf; and peppercorns. These fish fish can also be cooked in a be cooked a white white wine wine court-bouillon. court-bouillon. Court-bouillon Court-bouillon V, V, for fon lobster lobster and and other other shellfish. shellfish. COURTcouRrpouR LANGOUSTES BOUILLON BoLJTLLoN POUR LANcousrEs ET E-r AUTRES AUTRES CRUSTACS cnusrlcns -- Made with ions ; parsley; with water; water; thinly thinly sliced sliced carrots carrots and and on onions; thyme; peppercorns. thyme; bay leaf; leaf; salt salt and and peppercorns. Court-bouillon Court-bouillon VI, Vf, for for lobster lobster and other shellfish. and other shellfish. COURTcouRrpouR LANGOUSTES BOUILLON BourLLoN POUR LANGousrEs ET Er AUTRES AUTRES CRUSTACS cnusr.lcns -- Often Often used for cooking cooking shellfish. shellfish. It is is made made with salt water flavoured with thyme and and bay. Court-bouillon Court-bouillon VII, VII, au au bleu, bleuo for for river river trout, trout carp, carp, pike.

(1*

poLJR TRUITES COURT-BOUILLON couRT-BouILLoN AU AU BLEU, BLEU, POUR TRUITES DE oE RIVIRE, nlvtiinr, CARPES cARpEs

COUP COUP DE FEU FEU - The effect effect which is created created by a joint joint
being charred. charred. being Also Aiso used used in in professional professional cookery cookery for for the the hours hours devoted devoted to serving up up a a meal. meal. serving

Made of salt salt water water and and vinegar, flavoured - Made with carrots and sliced onions, parsley, parsley, thyme, bay leaf, leaf, salt and pepper. (see TROUT, and TROUT, Blue trout). Court-bouillon V[I, VITI, white Cout-bouillon white wine, wine, la hongroise. i la hongroise. COURTcouRTBOUILLON AU AU vrN VIN BLANC, Melt BourLLoN BLANc, A LA ul HONGROISE uoNcRorsE Melt 1 I large onion in in 1 tablespoon minced onion I tablespoon butter butter until until soft. Season a bouquet garni. Season with salt, paprika pepper, and andabouquet Moisten with 6 (1 pint, pin t, 2-! Moisten 6 dl. (1 2] cups) dry white wine. Boil for for 8 minutes. court-bouillon fish prepared This c rused for fi Thrs our t - b ou i I I on is used ar ed as as hors-d'uvre. sh prep ho r s - d' e uv r e . be made with olive oil instead instead of of butter. butter. It can be lX, vegetable. vegetable. couRr-Bourr,I,oN COURT-BOUILLON AUX Court-bouillon I& Court-bouillon AUX Cook 25 25 g.0 g. (1 oz., oz.,! cup) finely chopped LGUMES - Cook rfcuMss chopped onion and and I cup) g. (l (1 oz., I ! cup) cup) finely chopped carrot in in a 25 g. a tablespoon Dr oil. Season with salt and and pepper. Add Add 2 crushed butter or crushed bouquet garni. garlic cloves cloves and and a bouquet garlic
ET ET BROCHETS BRocI{ETs -

278 278

COUSCOUS couscous
Moisten Moisten with with 6 6 dl. dl. (l (1 pint, pint, 2] 2} cups) cups) dry dry white white wine. wine. Boil Boil for 10 minutes. minutes. This This is is used used for for fish fish and and other other food food served served as as for 10
hors-d'uvre. hors-d'euvre. Court-bouillon X, X, au au vert vert - Cook Cook 100 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz.) oz.) sorrel sorrel Court-bouillon leaves; leaves; 25 25 g. g. (l (1 oz.) oz.) very very young young nettle nettle leaves; le av es ; a a few few sprigs sprigs of of parsley; parsley; I1tablespoon tablespoon each each ofsavory, of savory, burnet burnet and and green green sage; sage; teaspoon tarragon tarragon and and a a sprig sprig of of thyme thyme in in 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons I1 teaspoon (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) butter. butter. Season Season with with salt salt and and pepper. pepper. Moisten Moisten with 6 6 dl. dl. (l (1 pint, pint, 2* 2} cups) cups) white white wine. wine. Cook Cook for for 8 8 minutes' minutes. with au vert vert (set (set to to stiffen in in herbs herbs Used for for small small fish fish cooked au Used before the the white white wine wine is is added). added). before After the the fish fish is is cooked. cooked, the court-bouillon court-bouillon is is thickened After with egg egg yolks, yolks, and and made acid with with a few drops of lemon with juice. juice. (See EEL, EEL, Eels Eels au vert). vert). Court-bouillon Xf, XI, white white wine, for for fish fish in marinade. marinade. couRrCOURTCourt-bouillon BOUILLON AU AU VrN vIN BLANC, BLANC, POLJR POUR POISSONS rr{lnmns MARlN'; - Put into a BOUILLON pan2 pan 2 small tender carrots cut in thin th in scalloped rounds; I 1 in thin thin slices; 2 finely chopped sticks sticks of small onion cut in sliced shallots; a small sm ail handful of parsley stalks; celery; 2 sliced 2 sprigs sprigs of of thyme and a bay leaf. leaf. 2 (| pint, scant cup) white wine and I Moisten with 2 dl. (t 1 dl. Moisten (6 tablespoons, scant 1 } cup) vinegar. Season with salt and with the ground pepper. Boil for for 15 minutes. Pour, with freshly ground MARIvegetables, over over fish (see MARIh marinade marinade (see d la fish prepared vegetables, NADE). Cook according according to to the the instructions instructions given in in the NADE). recipe. recipe. be correctly The vegetables in in this this court-bouillon should be The with the served with sliced are usually usually served as they they are and scalloped, scalloped, as sliced and marinated fish. la mirepoix (for braised Court-bouillon i la wine, Court-bouillon XII, white wine, A LA vIN BLANC, BLANc, AU VIN or poached fish). counr-BoullloN AU fish). COURT-BOUILLON or poached (+ pint, pint, scant cup) vegetable MIREPOIX scant cup) 2 dl. dl. (t Simmer 2 MrREpoIx - Simmer powdered thyme, powdered mirepoix (q.v.) (carrot, leek, on ion, celery, thyme, onion, (| pint, pint, scant cup) bay leaf) in butter, and dl. (t and moisten with 2 dl. dry white wine. (] pint, pint, li l* cups) fish cups) fish Boil 3 dl. dl. (} thirds. Add 3 Boil down down by two thirds. by two instructo instrucfumet (q.v.). Boil l0 minutes. minutes. Use according to for 10 Boil for fumet tions. couRr mirepoix. COURT Court-bouillon i la la mirepoix. Champagne, XIII, Champagne, Court-bouillon XIII, Made in in the the BOUILLON rvlnnpolx A LA u MIREPOIX BouILLoN AU AU VIN vIN DE DE CHAMPAGNE, cHAMpAcNE, - Made of instead of same using Champagne Champagne instead XII,using same way as as Court-bouillon Court-bouillon XII, white wine. wine. couRrCourt-bouillon mirepoix. COURTla mirepoix. red wine, wine, i la XIV, red Court-bouillon XIV, BOUILLON in the same Made in the same i LA I-.1 MIREPOIX mnepox -- Made BouILLoN AU AU VIN vIN ROUGE, RoucE, Burgundy or or wayas from Burgundy red wine wine from XII, using using red way as Court-bouillon Court-bouillon XII, peelings can can Bordeaux wine. Mushroom Mushroom peelings white wine. instead of of white Bordeaux instead be it la la mirepoix. mirepoix. for ail all court-bouillons court-bouillons used for be used Simple ofral -- Coyer Cover 2 2 and offal meats and for Meats XV, for court-bouillon XV, Simple court-bouillon and carrot and tablespoons of shredded shredded carrot each of (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) each tablespoons (3 onion; 10 peppercorns garlic I clove ofgarlic peppercorns and and 1 clove of garni;10 I bouquet bouquet garni; onion; 1 with the adding the minutes before before adding l0 to 15 minutes to 15 for 10 Boil for salted water. water. Boil with salted meat. meat. Court-bouillon PouR VIANDESvIANDES BLANc POUR for Meat. meat. BLANC white, for XVI, white, Court-bouillon XVI, (variety meats), as Used meats), such such as offal (variety certain offal for cooking Used for cooking certain heads, and combs sheeps' tongues and and cocks' cocks'combs feet, calves' calves'heads, and feet, sheeps'tongues and kidneys. and kidneys. (see below) adding one Proceed one XIX (see below) adding for Court-bouillon Court-bouillon XIX Proceed as asfor medium-sized quarters; one studded one onion onion studded in quarters; cut in carrot cut medium-sized carrot with (q.v.). garni (q.v.). abouquet bouquet garni clove;and and a with aa clove; Put court-bouillon. into the the boiling boiling court-bouillon. meat into Put the the meat Court-bouillon BLANc calf's head. head. BLANC for cooking cooking calf's white, for XVII, white, Court-bouillon XVII, pouR CUIRE POUR cold water, water, with cold Mix flour flour with DEVEAU vEAU -- Mix rf;TE DE cuIRE LA r.c,TTE generous using (scantquart, quart, generous per litre litre (seant t heaped heaped tablespoon tablespoon per using 1 quart) into aa saucepan saucepan Pour into quart) water, Strain. Pour smooth. Strain. water, until until smooth. large inhalf, cutin half, or or whole, cut head, either either whole, the head, totake take the large enough enough to in tablespoon andadd add 1I tablespoon saltand teaspoon salt pieces.Season with 1I teaspoon in pieces. Season with vinegar quart) water. Bring generous quart) water. Bring (scantquart, quart,generous per litre litre(scant vinegar per to andaa with 22cloyes, cloves,and large onion onionstudded studded with add1I large to the the boil, boil, add
279 279

bouquet bouquet garni garni made made of of a a sprig sprig of of parsley, parsley, thyme thyme and and a a bay bay leaf. leaf. When When the the stock stock is is boiling, boiling, put put in in the the calf's caIrs head head wrapped wrapped (9 generous in in a a fine fine muslin muslin cloth. clotho Add Add 250 250 g. g. (9 oz' oz., generous cup) cup) beef beef or or veal veal fat, fat, chopped chopped and and soaked soaked in in cold co Id water. water. The The fat fat will will melt melt and and form form a a protective protective layer layer over over the the calf's calf's head head and and will will

prevent prevent it it from from going going black. black. Court-bouillon Court-bouillon XYIII, XVIn, white, white, for for mushrooms. mushrooms. BLANc BLANC PouR POUR cHAMpIcNoNs CHAMPIGNONS - Also Also used used for for other other vegetables. vegetables. Bring Bring 50 50 g. g. (2 I lemon (2 oz.,* oz., t cup) cup) butter, butter, the the juice juice of of} lem on and and I 1 teaspoon teaspoon salt salt to the boil in * cup) in I 1 dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant} cup) water. water. Mushrooms Mushrooms or or other other vegetables vegetables are are cooked cooked in in this this liquor liquor when when it it is is boiling. boiling. Court-bouillon Court-bouillon XIX, XIX, white, white, for for vegetables. vegetables. BLANc BLANC PouR POUR liable to to rfcuurs LGUMES - Used for for cooking cooking vegetables vegetables which which are are ]jable artichoke hearts, cardoons, artichoke hearts, chards, cardoons, turn tum dark, dark, such such as as chards, salsify, etc. 4 a smooth smooth paste (l oz., flour into g. (1 cup) flour oz., I Mix 25 g. t cup) into a pa'Ste with with 4 Mix 25 (li pints, generous pints, generous (* cup) I litre litre (lcup) water. tablespoons (t water. Add Add 1 sieve. Season Season fine sieve. a fine mix, and and strain strain through quart) quart) water, water, mix, through a and 2 2 or lemon or 3 3 of j lem Add the the juice salt. Add I teaspoon with with 1 teaspoon salt. juice of} on and suet. raw, chopped chopped suet. tablespoons raw, to be cooked. vegetable to be cooked. Add the the vegetable moments. Add Boil for a few moments. studded an on onion with an spiced with can be be spiced This court-bouillon can This ion studded (q.v.), but not is not garni (q.v.), this is but this a bouquet bouquet garni and a clove, and a clove, with with a seasoned it have have to to be be seasoned in it cooked in necessary if the ingredients cooked cooking. stage of cooking. at the final stage keeps them them and keeps vegetables and cooks the the vegetables The court-bouillon cooks The (or butter) is added, added, as as butter) is suet (or in view view that that suet It is is with with this this in white. It from contact contact vegetables from protects the the vegetables which protects a layer which it forms a it with air.

bowl Acouscous couscous bowl A

dish, African dish, North African or COUSCOUSSOU COUSCOUSSOU -- North COUSCOUS or COUSCOUS or millet flour, flour, or made with with millet It is is made times. It earliest times. from the the earliest dating from dating (mutton, chicken, etc.). chicken, etc.). meat(mutton, rice, and and meat with cru crushed with shed rice, means becquete becquetie couscous means word couscous the word say the authors say Some authors Some its beak and in its beakand takes in which aabird bird takes food which (pecked at), the food at),from from the (pecked inaa wrote in young. Leon Isnard wrote Leon Isnard its young. to feed feed its rolls in in small bitsto small bits rolls cooking: African cooking: on African book bookon versionof of is aaGallic Gallic version couscoas is word couscous theword 'It seems that the 'It seemsthat derives word der The word small. The crushed small. meaning crushed rac keskes, keskes, meaning rac ives koskosou, keuscass, koskosou, koskos, keuscass, nameskoskos, phonetically from fromthe thenames phonetically potof of foraapot Africa for partsof North Africa ofNorth different parts indifferent kouskous, used in kouskous,used The issteamed. steamed.The semolinais glassin which semolina inwhich alfaglass oralfa earthenware earthenwareor another ofanother ontop topof seton pierced with holes isisset withholes pot, which ispierced pot, which is orstock. stock. wateror boilingwater onecontaining containing boiling similar similarone forail all namefor thisname used this Africaused North Afriea 'The inhabitants ofNorth 'The inhabitantsof (buckwheat whiteor orbrown brown (buckwheat withflour, flour,white madewith kinds kinds of ofdishes dishesmade

COUSINETTE COUSINETTE
flour), and and steamed steamed in in the the keskass, keskass, aa receptacle receptacle similar flour), similar to to aa basin. basin. 'But we we think think that word couscous 'But that the the word couscous or couscoussou is or couscoussou is onomatopoeic, simulatingthmoise simulating thenoise madt}.by <~ .\ onomatopoeic, made.by the steam as as it it the steam passes through through the the holes holes of process of passes of the the utensil utensil in in the the process of cooking. cooking. 'In Kabylia, Kabylia, the 'In the word word sekjou sekjou is is used; used; in in the the Mozabite Mozabite dialect oucheou. oucheou. However, However, for dialect for sorne some unknown unknown reason reason the the people of gouni, borrowed people of Oued-Rigt adopted the Oued-Rigt have have adopted the word wordgoznl borrowed from the from the Berbers.' Berbers.' There are preparing couscous. There many ways ways of are many of preparing couscous. grain by Cooking Cooking the the crushed cnrshcd grain by steaming. steaming. CUISSON DE LA cussoN DE LA SEMOULE A L'TUVE r'6tuvfs -- Soak grain in sEMouLE Soak the the crushed crushed grain in water water until until (a colander rainer, swollen. swollen. Place Place in in the the cooking cooking vesse! vessel (a colander or or st strainer, fitted pan, can fitted over a pan, pressing it over a can be used), without without pressing be used), it down. down. Put some water pot, in Put sorne water or or stock stock to to boil proporin the in the boil in the pot, the propor(scant quart, quart, generous tion generous quart) quart) to (generous tion of of 1 I litre litre (scant g. (generous to 500 500 g. (i.e. crushed 1 grain). When I lb.) lb.) couscous couscoas (i.e. liquid begins When the crushed grain). the liquid begins to to put the boil, the uncovered uncovered vessel vessel containing grain boil, put containing the the crushed crushed grain (The vessel on pot. (The grain is on top top of of the the pot. vessel in in which which the the grain is steamed steamed must never come into contact come into contact with with the the boiling boiling water.) water.) Place a a damp damp cloth cloth between point of between the the two vessels at two vessels at the the point of contact to prevent prevent the the steam steam escaping escaping round round the the edge. edge. When When the steam steam begins to rise, cook to rise, cook for for 40 40 minutes. minutes. Remove Remove from from the grain on Turn the plate. Fork the heat. heat. Tum the grain a large large plate. Fork it it over on to to a over to to work out any glasses of any lumps. lumps. Moisten Moisten with with two water and and two glasses of water a a tablespoon oil. oil. Add Add salt salt and and pepper. Leave for 15 l5 minutes. minutes. Retum Return the pot to the pot to the the heat, heat, and and when when the water boils put put the the couscous couscous back in the back in the steaming vessel. steaming vessel. Steam for a a further 20 20 minutes. minutes. Cooking the crushed grain in in boiling crushed grain boiting water. water. CUISSON DE LA cr.JrssoN DE LA pm BULLITION SEMOULE sEMouLE PAR spoNTANns -- The fnunrrroN SPONTANE The steaming vessel is steaming vesse! is dispensed with. Soak the couscous in the couscous in the the same way as as above. above. same way Throw it into the boiling water or or stock, stock, stirring stirring meanwhile. meanwhile. i pints, generous quart) Use (l| I litre (1 quart) strained Use 1 strained stock, stock, or milk or milk or water. Add butter and the heat and draw off offthe heat after after 15 15 minutes. minutes. Leave Leave it it for for a a moment, moment, but but serve serve very very hot, hot, with with meat meat or or vegetables. Armenian couscous. couscous. couscous couscous ARMNIEN ,tRMfl.uEN Prepared like like - Prepared the Arab couscous, couscous, with crushed crushed grain, chick-peas, chick-peas, slices slices of of carrots and new turnips, pieces ofwhite cabbage, cabbage, and and hashed hashed mutton, ail mutton, all browned browned in in oil. oil. Hot Hot pimento pimento sauce sauce is is served served separately. separately. Moroccan couscous. Moroccrn couscous. couscous couscous MAROCAIN MARocATN g. Sieve 500 500 g. - Sieve (18 oz.) finely ground (18 ground hard oz.) finely hard wheat wheat into into a a deep deep dish. dish. Add Add water, drop by water, by drop, drop, working it it with with the the hands hands until until it it is is reduced to a fine consistency; without this reduced this working working a a lumpy lumpy mass will result. Put the the grain in a a strainer strainer and and steam it over steam it over pan of hot hot water for a bain-marie or pan put the a for 15 15 minutes. minutes. Put the couscous in a a pan pan and and separate couscous separate the the grains with with the the hands, hands, lukewarm water. Cook for another adding lukewarm another JO 10 minutes, minutes, then then in butter separate it out again. Mix separate Mix in butter and and salt. salt. Raisins Raisins can can be be added, if liked. added, if liked. Pinet's recipe recipe for which always R. Pinet's for tagine, tagine,which always accompanies accompanies the the couscous, is is as as follows follows:: couscous. 'For 12 12 people: people: 2 2 large 'For quartered chickens, large quartered chickens, a a neck neck of of mutton cut cut for for saut6ing. sauting. Brown Brown the the meat meat in mutton in chicken chicken fat fat with with 4 large carrots and 4 diced onions. Sprinkle with a tablespoon 4large carrots and 4 diced onions. Sprinkle with a tablespoon mutton red pepper, and and moisten moisten generously generously with ground red with mutton and chicken chicken stock. stock. Add Add crushed crushed tomatoes, tomatoes, a garni, and a bouquet bouquet garni, celery, and and a a sachet sachet containing containing peppercorns, peppercorns, cloves, cloyes, saffron, celery, saffron, cinnamon and and cumin. cumin. cinnamon of quartered quartered artichokes, artichokes, garbanzos, garbanzos, Add equal equal quantities quantities of Add turnips, beans, beans, marrow marrow and and diced diced courgettes. courgettes. (chick-peas), turnips, Cook for for I 1 hour. hour. The The ragottt ragot should shoilld be be immersed immersed in in the the Cook in earthenware earthenware pots, pots, without without removing removing the the stock and and served served in stock fat.' fat.' AU MouroN MOUTON Mutton couscous couscous 'chtitra'. couscous Mutton 'chtitra'. COUSCOUS AU
280 280
Chicory (Belgian endive) la meunire (Phol. Nicolas) Chicory (Belgian endive) h la meunibre (Phot. Nicolasl

'cHTITRA''CHTITRA' - For persons,prepare For 66or8 prepareand g. or 8 persons, andsteam steam500 500g.
(generous1I lb.) (generous lb.)couscous. couscous. Put potaaleg Put into into afrpot legof pieces; 33chopped muttoncut ofmutton into pi<~ces; cutinto chopped cl oves of garlic; 33small~chopped cloves peppers;22soupspoons of,gatlic; srnall"chopped red redpepperS; soupspoons sweet pepper powder; powder; 1Iteaspoon sweet red red pepper teaspoon each pepper, eachof oil,salt, ofoil, salt,pepper, parsley parsleyand and chopped choppedchervil. chervil. i pints, Moisten (lf Moisten with pints,generous generous quart) quart)water. with 1I litre litre (1 water. Simmer for 33 hours Simmer for hoursor more.When Whencooked or more. cooked and andready ready to to serve, (aoz., g. (4 serve, add add100 100 g. oz.,-1I cup) cup) butter some of liquor tosorne butterto ofthe theliquor from pourover from the meat,and the meat, and pour overthe thecouscous. couscous. Arrange Arrangethe place the thecouscous couscous on largedish, onaalarge dish,place themeats meats on on top, top,and and serve servewith with the therest rest of of the thesauce. sauce.

COUSINETTE (Beamdse cookery) COUSINETTE (Barnaise cookery) -- Soup Soup made made with with spinach, tu ce, and spinach, sorrel, sorrel, let lettuce, and other green herbs. finelychopped other finely chopped green herbs. COYER. COVER. COUVERT couvERT - - Word Word used used in in various various ways. ways. It It is is applied applied to to the the implements implements set set out outon onaatable tablewhich which has has been (toclear laid. The The expression been laid. expression lever leveror or enlever enleverle lecouvert couvert (to clear the table) means means clearing the table) mealis clearing the the table tableonce oncethe the meal isover. The over. The word word also also applies applies to number of guests present present at to the the number ataameal: of guests meal: un 20, or (adinner 100 couverts diner de de 20, 20, de de 100 couverts (a un diner people). dinner of 100people). of20, or100 More (table-setting) means More often often the the word word couvert couvertde de table table(table-setting) means the the three three implements implements used used by by the thediner: diner: the the knife, knife, the fork the fork and and the the spoon. spoon. Although Although together together they they form form aalogical logical collection, collection, the the knife knife for for cutting, piercing solid cutting the fork for for piercing the fork solid food food and and the thespoon for spoon for liquids, liquids, several several centuries centuries separate separate their their discovery. discovery. The The oldest oldest is is the knife. Man's the knife. Man's first first need, need, even primitive in primitive even in times, times, was was to make a to make a tool tool to to cut cut up meat obtained up the the meat obtained by by hunting. hunting. As As the the use use of of bronze bronze and and iron iron was wasstill still unknown, unknown, he used flint and obsidian, a volcanic substance. Fragments he used flint and obsidian, a volcanic substance. Fragments of of obsidian obsidian have advantage ofbeing have the the advantage ofbeing both both hard hard and and sharp. sharp. Fitted Fitted between between two two bands bands of of wood wood or or bone, bone, bound with bound with plaited plaited fibres, piece of fibres, a a piece of obsidian obsidian made made one one of of the the first first knives. knives. Placed Placed at at the the end end of an arrow of an arrow or or spear, spear, it it became became aa weapon. weapon. Later, Later, bronze, iron and and steel bronze, iron steel replaced replaced obsidian obsidian for for knives. knives. According According to Ammien Marcellin, to Ammien Marcellin, bronze bronze knives, knives, made piece, were made in in one one piece, were used used by by the the Gauls, Gauls, who who used used them them to to divide divide the largest pieces pieces of the largest of meat. meat. From From the the tenth tenth century, century, the the town town of Beauvais had of Beauvais had the the monopoly monopoly for for their their manumanufacture. facture. The The fork, fork, which which originally prongs, was originally had had only only two two prongs, was invented invented later later than than the knife. the knife. The probably contemporary The spoon was probably spoon was contemporary with with the the knife, knife, as as it it would would have have been for liquids. been essential essential for liquids. At At first first it it was was a a simple en handle. simple shell with a a wood wooden shell with handle. Metal Metal spoons spoons were were made made at least as as early at least early as as metal metal knives. knives. Many Many bronze spoons survive bronze spoons survive from from excavations excavations and and can can he be seen seen in in museums. museums. They They are are of of different different shapes shapes and and sizes, sizes, sorne some rounded, rounded, others others elongated, elongated, similar similar to to the the spoons spoons used today. Among used today. Among these these objects in objects in museums museulns there there are only one one or are only or two two early forks, which early forks, which do not do not seem to have been used for eating. In the fourteenth century, seem to have been used for eating. In the fourteenth century, even even amongst amongst the palaces, there the splendid splendid silverware silverware in in palaces, there were were far far more more spoons spoons than forks. Piers than forks. Piers Gaveston, Gaveston, the the favourite favourite of of Edward Edward II, II, owned owned sixty-nine sixty-nine silver silver spoons spoons and and three forks. three forks. These, according to the inventory, were designed for eating These, according to the inventory, were designed for eating pears. Clemence of Hungary (1328) left thirty spoons pears. Queen Queen Clemene of Hungary (1328) left thirty spoons and a single fork at and a single fork at her her death. death. M.le M. le comte comte de Laborde writes, de Laborde writes, 'From 'From the the thirteenth thirteenth century century forks forks existed existed for for exceptional exceptional Under the dishes, dishes, but but were were not not in in common common use.' use.'Under influence of the influence of a M. de a famous famous beau, beau,M. de Montausier, Montausier, the generally the fork fork became became generally used used during during the the seventeenth seventeenth century. century. Not (place setting) Not only only has has the the couvert couvert (place setting) made made up up of of these these three pieces become three pieces become widely widely used used today, today, but many implements, implements, but many fill particular needs have been developed. There designed to designed to fill particular needs have been developed. There are dessert, fruit, fish, or are settings settings for for luncheon, luncheon, sweets, sweets, cakes, cakes, dessert, fruit, fish, or crayfish. jam, coffee, crayfish. There There are are spoons porridge, jam, spoons for for absinth, absinth, porridge, coffee, ices, infusions, syrup, soda, tea, or for infusions, liqueurs, ices, liqueurs, mocha, mocha, eggs, eggs, syrup, soda, tea, or for

CRACKNEL CRACKNEL
glasses of water. There are are special forks forks for winkles, snails, oysters, vegetables, vegetables, fish fish and melons. oysters, These three three basic implements which which make up up the the couvert

are are augmented augmented by by special special implements implements for for eating eating lobster,
asparagus, snails snails etc. artichokes, asparagus, v ACHE - The cow is the female female of the bovine species COW. vAcHE and is generally bred for milk or for reproduction. reproduction. The meat of barren cows, or heifers, is more sought after than that of bullocks. bullocks. The flesh of old cows, worn out by bearing calves and by lactation, is tough and of of inferior quality. Developments in milk production have meant that the herd is renewed more. discarded earlier. When they reach often, and milking cows discarded the butcher butcher their their meat is often of of good good quality, qua lit y, since since breeders fatten them beforehand so that they are in the best possible possible condition.

Dressed Dressed crab

COW-PARSNIP. BERCE BERCE - Weed of of the family Umbelliferae, COW-PARSNIP. Umbellderae, common in in marshy marshy places, places, in in meadows meadows and and hedges. hedges. In common asparagus. In LithuLithuSiberia its young shoots are eaten like asparagus. potent ania and Poland its leaves and seeds are made into a potent
beer.
CRABE - Shellfish Shellfish of the the order Decapoda. Many cRABE order Decapoda. species are edible. ed ible. species (Crole cookery). cRABEs CRABES Er ET Crabs and shellfish in broth (Cr6ole CRUSTACS EN EN BoUILLoN BOUILLON - Soften chopped onion, tomato, tomato, cRUSTACES

vinegar, and and is is put put back back in in the the shell. preparation is vinegar, The preparation shell. The a knife and and decorated with egg yolks yolks and smoothed with a chopped parsley. The is served with a a Mayonnaise chopped parsley. The crab crab is served with sauce (see SAUCE). AU GRATIN a large crab in Crab au gratin. CRABE cRABE AU GRATIN - Cook a court-bouillon (q.v.). (q.v.). Let Let it it cool. When cold, court-bouillo,n cool. When cold, remove the legs. Using the point of a knife, make an incision incision claws and legs. of a

CRAB. CRAB.

pounded ginger, thyme, 2 cloves cloyes garlic, and the parts of the parts. crab not usually eaten in some fat. Set aside the edible parts. Moisten the ingredients in the pan with broth and simmer gently for for 2 2 hours. hours. Sieve, Sieve, pressing pressing to obtain obtain a thick thick sauce. sauce. Put some some fat fat and and a a teaspoon each each of saffron saffron and and chopped chopped pimento pimento in a casserole. Lightly Lightly brown the pieces of crab or shellfish and pour pour the sauce sauce over them. Cook Cook for -some ~ome other shellfish minutes and serve hot hot with Rice it la creole crole (see RICE). CRABE FRoID FROID - Cook a crab in court-bouillon, court-bouillon, Cold crab. cRABE suitablc for all shellfish, made from water, thyme, salt and a suitable Garnish with fresh parsley. Serve Serve leaf. Leave Leave to cool. Garnish bay leaf. with with Mayonnaise sauce, sauce, Tartare Tartare sauce, sauce, Gribiche sauce oi or sauce (see SAUCE). Green sauce In In England, cold crab is sold sold already prepared (dressed (dressed crab). The meat, mashed with two forks, is seasoned with a a sauce made fron from the crab's liver, English mustard, oil and

underneath the crab's shell so as to detach the upper part. Remove the meat from claws, legs and shell. shell. Cut the meat Remove mash with with two two forks. forks. Clean the the hollow into large dice, or mash and coyer few tableshell with hot water and cover the bottom with a few spoons Mornay Mornay sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) to which the crab's liver spoons and the creamy parts, parts, finely finely pounded, are are added. Replace and added. Replace coyer with more sauce. grated the meat and cover sauce. Sprinkle with grated cheese. Pour on some some melted melted butter butter and brown brown in a a moderate cheese. oyen. oven.

(SmaU and large). cASSf CASS (pErrr, (PETIT, GROS) CRACK (Small cRos) cooking sugar sugar (see SUGAR). cooking SUGAR).

Degrees in

CRACKNEL (Biscuit). (Biscuit). cRAeUELIN CRAQUELIN - Knead Knead 250 g. (9 oz., CRACKNEL e. (9 2;1- cups) cups) sifted sifted flour flour with with 150 150 g. g. (5 (5 oz., oz., l0 10 tablespoons) 2f yolks, 8 tablespoons (l (} cup) cup) cold 25 g. cold milk, 25 butter, 2 egg yolks,

(l (1

oz., 2 tablespoons) sugar and a pinch of of salt. o2.,2 rest for 2 hours. Roll it out 1(t Leave the pastry to rest I cm. (f thick, and cut cut into 5-cm. (2-inch) squares. Arrange Arrange on a a inch) thick, a very hot oven. oyen. baking sheet. Brush with egg and cook in a Sprinkle with vanilla-flavoured sugar. Sprinkle

How to prepare prepare crab How

1. To To twist twist off off the the legs legs and and claws, claws, wipe wipe crab crab with with damp damp cloth. clotho Place Place on on back back 1. with tail tail flap flap facing. facing. Remove Remov~ claws daws and and legs leg~ by by twisting twisting inwards inwards and and towards towards with you

2. To separate body body from from shell, place thumbs thumbs under tail flap and and push pusb 2. upwards until until the the body body breaks breaks away from the the shell sbelJ upwards

281 281

Desserts: timbale Elysle Elyse (Lasserre. (Lasserre. Pfutt. Phal. N Nicolas) icolas'l Desserts : timbule

(continued) prepare crab How to crab (continued) to prepare How

3. To To remove mou place shell mouth you. and slOmach stomach bag, bag, place shell with with mouth mouth facing facing you. 3. th and thumbs down down and and forward forward on mouth until on mouth until this, this, and and stomach stomach bag bag Press thumbs attached. breaks breaks away awav with with a a click click attached,

4. To To remove 4. remove the the stomach, stomach, take hold of and stomach take hold of the the mouth mouth and stomach bag bag and and carefully remove carefully remove them; piece. Discard them; they in one come away Discard them they should should come away in one piece. them

5.

around inside shell with with handle handle of ofa To removemeat, remove meat, ease around a spoon, spoon, loosening meat into a basin, basin, leaving the soft brown brown meat. meal. Turn all ail the meat shell clean the shell

6. 'false [ine' To trim shell, 6. To shell, lap press tap'false line' around around shell with knife shell cavity cavity with knife handle, handle, press with thumbs until shell wall with until edges edges of wall break ofshell break away neatly. Scrub dry the the away neatly. Scrub and and dry shell shell and and oillightly oil liehtlv

7. Taking Taking body body of of crab, crab, discard 'dead men's men's fingers'. Remove brown brown meat, 7. adding to to basin. basin. Scoop Scoop white white meat meat from from leg leg sockets, sockets, keeping keeping free free from from bone; bone; adding put put in in second second basin basin

to remove rem ove meat. meal. With With back heavy knife knife lap 8. Twist first joint off daws claws to back of of heavy tap sharply round centre of claw's broadest broadest part until the shell ofclaw's apart; until the shell cracks cracks apart; empty both into into white white meat meat basin basin empty both

282

CRAYFISH
pfltisserie) CRAMIQUE CRAMIQUE (Belgian ptisserie) - Brioche bread which has

currants in it.

CRANBERRY or or MOSSBERRY MOSSBERRY of a a small CRANBERRY Fruit of - Fruit shrubby plant which which grows in regions of in the edible shrubby the boggy boggy regions North America and and Europe. Europe. Cranberries look North America look like like sm ail small cherries and and their colour varies from a a clear pink to a a deep cherries red. They They have an acid, acid, slightly bitter have an and are are unred. flavour and bitter flavour eaten raw. raw. They They may be made into into a a compote or be made pleasant eaten jelly, which has a delicate taste. is tradijelly, which tas te. Cranberry jelly is has a Cranberry jelly tionally used with game and fowl, such as duck and goose. jelly. Coyer is Dr Dr Leclerc's recipe for for cranberry cranberry jelly. Cover the Here is with water and cook cook for for 15 15 minutes, until they are berries with (12 oz., g. (12 Add 350 for each soft. Add 350 g. oz., l| cups) sugar sugar for each 500 500 g. soft. It cups) (generous 1 I lb.) fruit fruit and and cook cook again until a a thick syrup is (generous made. This forms a jelly jelly when cool. CRAI\E. GRUE cRUE seldom used for food food nowadays. nowadays. CRANE. Wader, seldom used for - Wader, which they fattened specially The Romans prized this bird, which to a ri richer tn give it a cher flavour. flavour. In the Middle Ages, the crane was game birds eaten among the game eaten in the best society. It can only be among and is cooked in the same way as as bustard eaten very young and (see BUST BUSTARD). ARD).
(,4. LA). CRAPAUDINE ( CRAPAUDINE Preparation of fowl, particularly - Preparation of pigeon (q.v.). authors say name cornes comes from from the word Some authors that this this name Sorne say that given to the dish because the birds, crapaud (toad) and was given and was crapaud

flukes to which is a small black If this flukes to which is attached a this is is not black sac. sac. If flavour. Approximately one discarded it spoils the delicate flavour. fifth of the gross weight of a crayfish is is edible.

Female and male male crayfish Female

trussed in this way, resemble toads. toads.

which is A cake cake which so called because, CRAQUELIN is so because, being -A very dry, it crunches between the teeth. It is made in different different
sometimes in in the same way as as Reims Reims biscuits, someways; sometimes (pdte times with a a dough (pte d echauds). echaudis).

pear with aromatic flesh. CRASSAI\E with aromatic CRASSANE variety of pear Juicy variety - Juicy (See PEAR.) CRA YFISH (Freshwater). CREVISSE CRAITISH @reshwater). fcnnvlssr

There are are three - There principal red-clawed crayfish varieties of crayfsh (underof crayfish: the red-c/awed principal varieties part largest of the of the red) which which is is the part of the claws the largest the French claws red) varieties and has white-clawed crayfish crayfish delicate flesh: flesh; the varieties and the white-c/awed has delicate (21to smaller which is smaller to 3 oz.); and - not more than 65 to 75 g. (2t the slender-c/awed slender-clawed crayfish crayfish which which is is imported imported from the from central and is is of mediocre quality. Europe and Whichever Whichever method of cooking is chosen for crayfish, it is first of aU all to remove the media lamina of the tail necessary first

(courn) D'CREVISSES o'fcnevrssEs coulis. Brser.rn Crayfish bisque or coulis. BISQUE (COULIS) Thick soup made with crayfish cooked d la mirepoix. While While pounding the in a a mortar, add add sorne some cooke9 cooke$ rice. pounding the crayfish in Purte of of crayfish crayfish soup.) (See SOUPS AND BROTHS, Pure Crayfish la bordelaise. bordelaise. CREVISSES EcnevlssEs A LA LA BORDELAlSE BoRDELATSE Crayfish i la Toss the the crayfish crayfish in a fine fine mirepoix mirepoix of vegetables. vegetables. Toss Make a butter separately. separately. Season with salt, pepper and spices. spices. Moisten with crayfish and set alight. Moisten Pour brandy over the crayfish white wine. wine. Add and cook for 20 cook together Add the the mirepoix mirepoix and together for white put them Drain the in a a deep and put deep dish. minutes. Drain the crayfish and them in cooking stock stock with 3 or 4 egg yolks. Add a generous Bind the cooking piece of butter. well. Mask Mask the with this piece of butter. Season weIl. the crayfish with piping hot. sauce and serve at once, piping Bush of crayfish. BUIssoN o'6cREvISSns Bush BUiSSON D'CREVISSES is a - A buisson is in court-bouillon as bush or clump. clump. Cook Cook the crayfish in small bush for Crayfish Crayfish d la nage (see below). Leave them to cool.

Ingredients for Ingredients crayfish d la bordelaise

283

CRAYFISH
(hot). MoussELINEs la Nantua mousselines i Crayfish mousselines Crayfish la Nantua (hot). MOUSSELINES cream forcemeat (see Use Fine Fine cream - Use with fillet or whiting mixed FORCEMEAT) made made with fillet of pike pike or a pur6e forcemeat is is ready. ready, with a pure of crayfish tails. When the forcemeat Fill small buttered moulds with add add chopped crayfish tails. tails. Fill this mixture. Stand in a dish of water and poach poach in the oven. Turn out the mousselines mousselines on a dish, each one set on a round Tum ifpreferred, placed straight on the ofbread ofbread fried in butter, butter, or, ifpreferred, (s9e SAUCE). Decorate the sauce (see dish. Cover with Nantua sauce top of each mousseline with a thick piece of truffie. can be served with various garnishes Crayfish mousseline can with these garchosen to to blend with and covered covered with with a a sauce chosen and V i c t or i a,'etc. nishes c ar dinal, Victoria, c anc alaise, normande, no rmande, cardinal, 'etc. nishes:: cancalaise, braised fish. Mousselines are also also used to garnish large braised Mousselines are used to can be serve<! served in They can in tartlets baked baked blind (empty), or with mixture can be in butter. The same same mixture artichoke hearts cooked in artichoke poached in are poached hot mousses which are to make make large used large hot mousses which used to in water. charlotte moulds standing in.water. charlotte FRoIDEs D'CREo'6cnEMoUssELINES FROIDES Crayfish mousselines (cold). MOUSSELINES a mousse mixture prepared vrssEs VISSES prepared as - These are made with a Nantua (hot). Line Line mousselines d la Nantua in the recipe recipe for for Crayfish mousselines in jelly, and decorate with crayfish tails and and decorate small moulds with jelly, mixture and chili chill on truffies. Fill the moulds mou Ids with the mousse mixture ice. Remove the fcnrvlsses rn Necr i la la nage. nage. CREVISSES A LA Crayfish NAGE - Remove the centre centre of the the tails tails of 48 48 crayfish. intestinal matter matter from the intestinal into a a court-bouillon Wash and plunge immediately into them and Wash them plunge immediately prepared as follows: put them in and put in a into thin thin rounds, and 3 small carrots into Slice Slice 3 (4 oz., g. (4 chopped finely chopped 100 g. oz., 1 I cup) cup) small small finely with 100 saucepan saucepan with garlic, a clove of garlic, a smalt small crushed crushed clove 4 sliced sliced shallots, a onions, 4 of parsley heads. half a bay leaf, and a handful ofparsley of thyme, halfa sprig ofthyme, (f, pint, scant 2 cups) white wine dl. wine and 2 dl. Moisten with 4 dl. ct ({ pint, scant cup) water. Season with salt and freshly ground (t pepper. Cook for for 15 l5 minutes. pepper. for 10 l0 minutes, in this this court-bouillon for crayfish in Cook Cook the the crayfish pepper and to time. time. Season Season with cayenne pepper tossing tossing from time to the cooking stock. leave to cool in the pufrs. FRIANDS as for Proceed as nRnNDS AUX Atrx CREVISSES Ecnsvtssss -- Proceed Crayfish puffs. (see below) using flaky pastry pastry cut into triangles. Crayfish Crayfish rolls (see rolls. CHAUSSONS Ar-rx CREVISSES Ecnrvtssrs -- Cut Cut small small cnnussoNs AUX Crayfish Crayfish rolls. (see DOUG Flaky pastry (see DOUGH). rolled-out layer of Flaky rounds from a rolled-out H). ragofrt Nantua a heaped tablespoon of Crayfish Crayfish tail ragot d la la Nantua Put a round when up and and seal Roll up in the the centre of each each round when cold. cold. Roll seal the the in with egg egg and Bake in in a a edges. Brush the the tops tops with and lightly score. score. Bake edges. oven. Serve hot. slow oven. rolls des Dames de de Bous. DE QUEUES des Dames Bous. CHAUSSON cHAUssoN DE Crayfish roUs eUEUES 'Cook 100 DE BOUS Bous -- 'Cook 100 crayfish o'Ecnrvtssrs DES DEs DAMES DAMEs DE crayfish i la /a D'CREVISSES highly.'Accordmirepoix with white wine, seasoning rather highly.' Accordrecipes of ing to Mme. de de Loiseau, Loiseau, residuary legatee of the the recipes of to Mme. ing 'all a mixture mixture of of 'ail de Marron, this this seasoning seasoning should should be a Mme. de the main types of pepper'. 'With the the crayfish, make a a Ragot Ragoftt d la la the shelled tails of the crayfish, make 'With (see below), finishing it in the for Nantua (see it as as indicated in the recipe for Nantua Leave to At the sa carp this ragot. ragoitt. Leave to cool. At same soft carp me time, poach soft this roes in leave to cool. in white wine and and also leave to cool. roes (see DOUGH) DOUGH) and a round layer layer of Flaky Flaky pastry (see and out a 'Roll out with the on a a baking sheet. sheet. Spread Spread it it on on one one side side only only with place on ragoit and with the roes enriched with thick thick slices slices of of and with the soft soft roes enriched with ragot and spices, and sprinkled sprinkled trufles seasoned seasoned with with salt, salt, pepper and spices, and truffies liqueur brandy. with liqueur edges. Score light a scroll, carefully sealing the edges. Score Iight 'Roll into a scroll, carefully sealing the in a egg, and and bake in a hot hot diagonal lines on scroll, brush with with egg, on the scroll, diagonallines oven. oven. (see 'When it pour a it is is ready, ready, pour a little little hot hot Crayfish Crayfish buller butter (see 'When BUTTER, Compound Compound bullers) butters) into into the the scroll scroll through through the BUTTER, opening.' opening.' nrssorEs AUX as Fried crayfish crayfish roUs. rolls. RISSOLES AUX CREVISSES Ecnrvlssss -- Proceed as Fried
n'EcREvIssns A D'CREVISSES L,c LA N,ANrun NANTUA -

Special Special dish for arranging crayfish arranging

a special dish, fixing them by their tails Arrange them on a Arrange

with bunches of fresh Garnish with the dish. dish. Garnish bunches of to the the points on on the to
parsley. parsley. AUX CREVISSES fcREvISsEs Crayfish crofites. crotes. cRoOrES CROTES AUX
-

(see below), as for fish tail lail ragofit ragot Nantua (see below), proceed proceed as la Nantun d la fish

Using CrayUsing

MUSHROOM). Mushroom crote crofite (see MUSHROOM). FLAN AUX CREVISSES EcRpvnsrs GRATIN cnermE Crayfish flan with cheese. FLAN (baked pie shell) with Crayfish Fil! flan crust baked baked blind (baked Fill a flan (see below). with grated tai! Nantua (see below). Sprinkle Sprinkle with tail ragot ragofrt d la la Nantua cheese. Pour on melted butter butter and brown in the oven. pouR GARNITURE Crayfish as a garnish. EcRsvtssEs CREVISSES POUR GARNITURE - Wash and gut the crayfish. Truss them (fasten the claws to the tail) in a to the recipe. recipe. Put them in or leave as they are, as they are, according to boiling court-bouillon of water, salt, thyme and bay leaf. Boil until cooked. Use them hot or cold. u6cEoIsE Crayfish u LA LIGEOISE la ligeoise. li6geoise. CREVISSES EcnEvlssrs A i la - Cook (see for Crayfish a court-bouillon as as for d la nage (see the crayfish in a in a dish. Strain Drain and a deep dish. Strain the and arrange them in below). Drain cooking cooking stock and boil down to a a quarter of its volume. Mix (6 tablespoons, g. (4 oz., I dl. (6 in ! cup) butter for 1 in 100 g. oz.,1 tablespoons, seant scant 1 t cup) stock. Whisk thoroughly. thoroughly. Pour this sauce over the crayfish. parsley. fish. Sprinkle with chopped chopped parsley. la marinire. mariniire. CREVISSES icnEvrssm L.c, MARINIRE ruA,RrNrilRE Crayfish Crayfish i la A LA crayfish in butter over a very hot flame. When When they Saut Saut6 the crayfish they pepper, powdered salt, and are browned, season with salt, thyme and and moisten with with enough enough dry dry white wine wine to cover bay leaf, leaf, and bay them. and boil for 12 12 minutes. Remove Remove the Cover the the saucepan and boii for Boil down and add crayfish. crayfish. Boil down the the stock stock and add sorne some meatless Remove from the heat and mix in 2 or 3 tablespoons velout. velouti. Remove tablespoons and sprinkle Pour this this sauce butter. Pour butter. sauce over the the crayfish and sprinkle with chopped chopped parsley. (cold). MOUSSE Crayfish mousse mousse I'ancienne (cold). MoussE FROIDE FRoIDE Crayfish i l'ancienne D'CREVISSES o'EcnEvIssEs L'lNcmNNe medium-sized crayfish A L'ANCIENNE - Cook 36 medium-sized li shell the tails. Pound the shells d la mirepoix. Drain them and shell (2 oz., g. (2 in with the mirepoix, adding adding 50 50 g. oz., } in a a mortar with the mirepoix, { cup) (+ pint, } velouti and I dl. butter, cold meatless meatless velout and 1 dl. dl. <t butter, It J cup) cold U dl. (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant -!. melted aspic jelly. i cup) melted a saucepan. Rub this mixture a sieve and put it in a mixture through a (fr pint, scant 2 Add 2 cups) fresh partly whipped cream, dl. G Add 4 dl. and and diced. and the crayfish tails, shelled and fill the mou mould Id Line a a charlotte mould with white paper and fill ice, or a refrigerator, refrigerator, in a with the on ice, or in chill on mixture. Leave Leave to to chili the mixture. until just before before serving. Tum dish. Decorate with slices slices Turn the mousse onto a a serving dish. jelly. Surround of with chopped chopped in half-set half-set jelly. Surround with dipped in of truffie dipped aspic jelly. (cold). MOUSSE Crayfish 'CREVISSES o'EcREvIssrs mousse (cold). MoussE FROIDE FRoIDE 0 Crayfish mousse Make the and arrange arrange in in a as in in the the previous recipe and a the mousse as jelly charlotte mould lined with aspic jelly and decorated inside and decorated charlotte mould lined with aspic with shelled shelled crayfish tails and strips strips of truffies. Crayfish completely covered covered can also also be be served served completely Crayfish mousse can jelly. with aspic jel!y.
284 284

CREAM CREAM HORNS for for Crayfish rolls. Make the the rolls rolls as as shown in in the the recipe. recipe. Deep-fry them of baking baking them them in the the oven. When Ihem instead instead of they they are a good good colour, drain them them and and season season with table salt. Garn ish with wi th fried fried parsley. parsley. sa II. Garnish Crayfish GRATIN DE DE euEUEs QUEUES o'6cnrvrssns D'CREVISSES Crayfisb tails tails au gratin. cRATTN Prepare Prepare the the crayfish crayfish tails tails as as for for Crayfish Crayfish tail !ail ragofit ragoLt d la Nantua Nanl/la (see (see below). below). Put the the ragoitt ragol in a buttered buttered ovenware ovenware dish. dish. Sprinkle with with grated grated cheese, cheese, preferably preferably Parmesan. Parmesan. Pour Pour on melted melted butter. butter. Brown Brown slowly slowly in in the oven. oven. Crayfish la fagm faon de de maitre maHre La Planche. Planche. Craytish tails tails au gratin gratin I cRArrN GRATrN DE DE euEUEs QUEUES o'EcnBvnsrs D'CREVISSES A Am LA regon fAON on DE M.cfrRE MATRE r.A LA rLANcHE PLANCHE - 'Using crayfish cooked d la mirepox, mirepoix, prepare prepare a ragotrt mgoll of of crayfish crayfish tails tails thickened thickened with with highly highly seasoned seasoned crayfish crayfish pur6e. puree. 'Put ragol in in a a buttered buttered ovenware ovenware dish dish with with layers layers of 'Put this Ihis ragoitt fresh fresh truffies truffles cut eut into into thick thick slices, seasoned seasoned and tossed tossed in hot hot butter. in a a butter. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with finely finely grated grated cheese. cheese. Brown Brown in moderate in wann warm water water to to prevent prevenl moderate oven, oven, standing standing the the dish dish in the the sauce sauce from from curdling.' curdling.' Crayfish taU ragott ragot i la la Nantua. Nantua. euEUEs QUEUES o'fcRevrssEs D'CREVISSES A ra LA Crayfish tail NANTUA cup'l mireporx NANTUA - Make Make l+ 1t dl. dl. (+ (~ pint, pint, J t cup) mirepoix by by cooking cooking a a mixture of finely fineiy diced diced carrots, onions, onions, and celery, celery, with with mixture of powdered powdered thyme thyme and and bay bay leaf, leaf, in in butter butter until until tender. tender. Toss Toss 48 48 crayfish crayfish tails lails in in this lhis mixture. mixture. Season with with salt and and pepper. pepper. Moisten 2 dl. ($ (5 pint, pinl, scant seant cup) cup) white white wine. wine. Cover Cover the the Moisten with with 2 saucepan and cook cook for for l0 10 minutes. minutes. saucepan and Drain Drain the the crayfish. crayfish. Shell Shell the the tails. tails. Pound Pound the the shells shells and and the the mirepoix mirepoi>.: in in a a mortar mortar and and add add bichamel bchamel sauce sauce to to this this pur6e pure as as shown shown in in the the recipe recipc for Nantua Nantua sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Put Put the the crayfish tails tails in in a small pan pan with with a a tablespoon tablespoon butter. 1 tablespoon lablespoon butter. Heat Heat without wthout browning. browning. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with 1 flour Aour and and mix mix thoroughly. thoroughly. Moisten Moisten with wth 2 tablespoons tlblespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) brandy brandy and I 1 dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant * t cup) cup) thick thick cream. cream. Mix. Mix. l,eave Leave to to simmer simmer on on low low heat heat for for 8 8 minutes. minutes. Add Add the the Nantua Nantua sauce, sauce, prepared prepared separately. separately. Remove Remove from from the the heat heat and add 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz., oz., { ! cup) cup) butter. butter. and add According ragolI is is to to be be used, used, the the whole whole or or According to to how how this this ragoitt only only part part of of the the Nantua Nant ua sauce sa uce made made with with the t he pounded pou nded shells shells is it is a vol-auis added added to to it. il. If lfit is to to be he used used as as the the only ooly filling filling of ofa vol-auvent ven/ or or pie, pie, and and if if the the tails tails of of the the crayfish crayfish are are small, smalt, more more tails tails will intended as will be be needed. needed. If lfintended as a a garnish, garnish, it it can C,ln be be served served with wlth other other garnishes garnishes such such as as mushrooms, mushrooms, truffies, tfllffies, oysters, oysters, etc. elc. Crayfish tails in in shells. sheUs. coeurI.t.Es COQUILLES DE DE euErrEs QUEUES o'EcnEvrssEs D'CREVISSES Crayfish tails Line Line silver, silver, fireproof fireproof china china or or glass glass shells shells with with Mornay Momay sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE) SAUCE) flavoured tlavoured with with Crayfish Crayfish butter bUller (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). bUllers). Pipe Pipe a a narrow narrow border border of of Duchess Duchesspotato pOlalo mixture mixture (see (see POTATOES) POTA TOES) round round the the shell. shelJ. Arrange 8 shelled t08 shelled crayfish crayfish tails tails on on the the sauce. sauce. Cover Cover with with Arrange 6 6to more Mornay sauce, sauce, and and sprinkle :;prinkle with with grated grated cheese. cheese. Pour Pour more Mornay on on melted melted butter butter and and brown brown quickly quickly in in the the oven. oven. Crayfish be prepared prepared in in shells shells in in the the same same way, way, Crayfish tails tails can can be using la la normande, normande, it Ia la using different different sauces sauces and and garnishes, garnishes, d cardinal, with mushrooms, mushrooms, etc. etc. cardinal, with Crayfish TIMBALE DE DE euEUEs QUEUES o'fcRED'CRECraytish timbale timbale I I'ancienne. l'ancienne. TTMBALE vlssrs VISSES A L'eNcrENNE L'ANCIENNE .. Prepare Prepare Crayfish Crayfish tail lail ragofit rogol d la /a Nantua. Nanll/Q. Line Line a a shallow shallow pie pie dish dish uiith with Fine Fine lining linin!: paste pasle (see (see DOUGH). DOUGH). Line Line with with a a thin thin layer layer of ofFine Fine pike pikeforcemeal (see forcemeat (see FORCEMEAT). FORCEMEAT). Mix Mix coarsely coarsely diced diced truffies lruffles tossed tossed in in butter, butter, and and left left to ta cool, cool, with with the the ragofrt; ragol/; fill fill the the pie pie with with this. this. Cover ragol with with a a layer layer of of pike pike forcemeat, forcemeat, cover cover Caver the the ragofit the and seal. seal. Decorate Decorat with with flaky flaky pastry pastry the pie pie with with pastry pastry and motifs. motifs. Make in the the pastry pastry lid lid to to allow allow the the steam steam to 10 Make a a small small hole hole in escape. escape. Brush Brush with with egg. egg. Bake Bake in in a a slow slow oven oven for for 45 45 minutes minutes to to I1hour. hour. When is ready, ready, pour pour into into it il a a few few tablespoons tabJespoons of of When the the pie pie is thrn thin Nantua Nanlua sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE).
285 285

Crayfish Crayfish timbale timbale la la mode mode de de Chavillieu. ChaviUieu, TIMBAT.E TIMBALE DE DE QUEUES o'fcnrvrssns D 'eR EVISSES A LA noop MODE DE DE cHAvrLLrcu CHA VILLIEU - Cook euEUEs cralish crayfish d la mirepoix mirepoix with with white white wine. Drain Drain them, shell shelJ the tails pan with melted melted butter. butter. Pound Pound the the tails and put put the the tails tails in a pan shells in a mortar mortar and and divide divide the pur6e pure in in half. half. With With one half half shells in make make Crayfish Crayfish butter bI/lier (see BUTTER, BUTIER, Compound Compol/nd butters). blillers). Mix Mix the the rest rest of of the the crayfish crayfish pur6e pure with with an equal quantity quanlity of Bicharnel Bhamel sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE), SAUCE), diluted diluted with with fresh fresh cream. cream. Rub Rub this this pur6e pure through through a sieve sieve with with a a spatula.

rl

Heat in the the butter, butter, without browning. browning. Heat the the crayfish tails rails in Pour Pour on some fresh fresh cream and blend blend in in the crayfish pur6e. pure. Mix Mix over heat. heat. Moisten Moisten with with thick thick fresh fresh cream. crearn. When When the the ragoitt ragol has has thickened, thickened, mix mix in in some some of the the crayfish craytlsh butter. butter. Season Season with with cayenne cayenne pepper pepper and and flavour tlavour with wilh liqueur liqueur brandy. in a a double double saucepan. saucepan. brandy. Keep hot hot in Prepare 24 forcemeat forcemeat balls balls with with lavaret lavaret stuffing. stuffing. Prepare separately separately 24 (This is a a cream cream stuffing stuffing made made with with filleted filleted fish, fish, egg whites whites (This is and and thick thick fresh fresh cream.) cream.) Poach Poach the the forcemeat forcerneat balls balls slowly slowly and and keep FiJI a a pie pie crust of of fine fine pastry, pastry, baked baked blind blind keep them them hot. hot. Fill (empty), with "vith alternate alternate layers layers of crayfish crayfish tail ragofrt ragoLI and forcemeat forcemeat balls. balls. The The pie pie must must be be hot hot when when filled. filled. Cover Cover with with Nantua Nall/lla sauce sauce (made (made with with the the rest rest of of the the pur6e pure and and the the craycrayfish fish butter), butter), and and decorate decorate with with large large slices sliees of of trufle, t rllffle, seasoned seasoned with with salt and and pepper, pepper, tossed tossed in in butter but ter and and flavoured fla voured with with liqueur liqueur brandy. brandy. Serve Serve very very hot. hot. Crayfish VOL-AU-VENT Arx AUX fcR-Evlssns CREVISSES - Make Make Crayfish vol-au-vent. vol-an-vent. voL-AU-vENT a a vol-au-venl vo/-al/-vent case case (see (see VOL-AU-VENT). VOL-AU-VENT). Fill Fill with with Crayfish tail la la Nantua. Nantua. /ail ragottt ragol d Little Little crayfish crayfisb vol-au-venf ,'ol-au-vent, barquettes barquettes or or tartlets tartlets - See See HORS-D'(EUVRE. euvre. HORS-D'UVRE, Hot Hot hors-d' hors-d'uvre.
- Cream Cream not not only only contains of fat, fat, used used for for butter, butter, but but also also a a proporproporcontains globules globules of tion of water, water, casein, casein, lactose lactose and and mineral minerai salts salts (see (see MILK). M ILK). tion of There There is is a a difference difference between between single single cream cream which which is is obtained obtained by by skimming skimming milk milk that that has has been been left left to to settle settle in in shallow shallow bowls, bowls, and and which which contains contains 10 10 to to 20 20 per per cent cent butter, butter, and is obtained obtained by by a a separating separating machine maclne and double double cream, cream, which which is and 30 per per cent cent butter. butter. Possible Possible and which which must must contain contain at at least least 30 adulterants adulterants are are starch, starch, fecula fecula (potato (potato flour) flour) and and gelatine. gelatine. These to detect detect as as they they give give the the cream cream a a mealy mealy or or These are are easy easy to gluey gluey flavour. flavour. Since is largely largely composed composed of of fatty fauy substances, substances, Since cream cream is sufferers sufferers from from liver liver complaints cornplaints should should not not eat eat it. il. Ilealthy Healthy people people should should use use it it sparingly. sparingly.

CREAM (from (from milk). milk). cniMe CRME DU DU LAIr LAIT CREAM

CREAM CREAM CHEESES. CHEESES. FRoMAGEs FRO~AGES A r.l, LA cnirran CRME - See See CHEESE. CHEESE. CREAM CREAM HORNS HORNS A T,^q. LA CHIBOUST. CHIBOlJST. coRNETs CORNETS nnulLreT6s FEUILLETS
A Ingredients (for r,l LA cntrr,m, CRME, olrs [)ITS A LA LA cHrBousr CHIBOUST -Ingredients (for 12 12 cornets). cornets).

500 500 g. g. (18 (l8 oz.) oz.) Puff Puff pastry pas/ry (see (see DOUGH), DOUGH), 150 150 g. g. (5 (5 oz., oz., generous 1cup) cup) fine fine sugar, sugar. 5 5 egg egg yolks,4 yolks, 4 egg egg whites, whites. 50 50 g. g. generous * (2 (2 oz.,* oz., -1 cup) cup) flour, flour,! litre (scant (scant pint,2l pint, 2! cups) cups) milk, milk,! vanilJa ] litre I vanilla pod or a a few few drops drops vanilla vanilla essence essence and and a a pinch pioch salt. saIL pod or pastry (see M e thod. Make Melhod. Make the the pastry pastry as as for for Puff PlJffpas/rY (see DOUGH) DOUGH) and and roll roll it it out out 2 2 mm. mm. (t (~. inch) inch) thick. thick. Cut CUI into into 12 12 strips, strips, 3 3 crr1. cm. (l (1 inch) inch) wide wide and and 25 25 cm. (10 (10 inches) inches) long. long. Roll Roll these these strips strips

round round cornet cornet moulds. moulds. Arrange weI baking baking sheet; sheet; leave leave for for l0 10 Arrange the the cornets cornets on on a a wet minutes. minutes. Brush Brush them them with with egg egg and and bake bake in in a a hot hot oven oven for for 12 12 to to l5 15 minutes. minutes. When When nearly nearly cooked, cooked, sprinkle sprinkle with with icing icing sugar, sugar, glazs, of the oven oven as as soon soon as as they they glisten. glisten. glaze, and and take take them them out out ofthe The The cream. cream. The The base base of of this this preparation preparation is is the the CrCme Crme phtissiire ptissire (French (French pastry pastry cream). cream). Put Put the the sieved sieved flour, flour, sugar sugar and in a a pan. pan. Add Add the the egg egg yolks yolks and and whip whip until until the the and salt salt in mixture is smooth. smooth. mixture is Moisten Moisten with with the the milk, milk, which which has has been been boiled boiled with with t vanilla vanilla pod. pod. Mix Mix carefully carefully and and cook cook on on a a good goocl heat, heat, beating beating

CREAMS
consistency. The cooking must be until undl the cream is the right eonsisteney.

rapid, not This makes the crme crime not more more than than 5 5 minutes. minutes. This makes the
pdtissiire. "nl><~j'prp To obtain the crDme crme ChibouSI, Chiboust, add 4 stiffiy beaten egg whites, while whle the mixture is still hot. Fill the cornets with the crcam cream when cold. Use a a forcingFiU cornet of ofgreaseproofpaper. greasepl'oof paper. round nozzle, or a cornel bag with a round
cRijMEs The French French word word crme crdme applies CREAMS. CREMFS applies to CREAMS. - The garnish wb! pped cream; butter and custard creams used used to mish whipped to ga pastries and soups, soups. pastries and cakes; custard cream sauces; and Almond cream. CRME 500 g. Almond cream. D'AMANDES - Ingredienls. 500 cRiME D'AMANDES (18 oz., oz., 3~ 3| cups) al almonds, monds, 500 g. g. (18 oz., ps) fine sugar. oz.,2l cu cups) sugar, (18 oz"' g. (18 500 g. oz.,2t ClipS) cups) butter, bUller, 8 eggs. Melhod. Pound Pound the the peeled almonds almonds with wilh the the sugar, Method. When the moistening almonds have Iwo of the eggs. When the almands moislenng with witb two formed a a paste, add to work add the softened butter. butter. Continue 10 mixture, adding the lhe rest of the eggs one by One. the mixture, one. Butter creams. CRMES cniuns AU AU BEURRE REURRE - There are two ways of making butter creams, which which are used lIsed for far garnishing cakes and pastries. One and One combines butter buller with Custard cream (see is made made with and the below) and the othe!" other is with sugar sugar syrup, beaten egg yolks Both types of butter cream may butter cream may be yolks and and butter. butter. Both types of flavoured chocolate, vanilla vanilla or or any Ilavoured with mocha, praline, praline, chocolate, with mocha, liqueur. Butter crearo cream (with custard) custard) I. cniw AU BEURRE CREME AU RFURRE - Make a (see below). Beat il it until it is lukewann. lukewarm. Add Cuslard il is Custard cream (see (l lb., 2 eups) pieces for for every 450 g. (1 cups) butter in every 6 6 dl. in small pieces 450 (l pint, 21 2| cups) custard, beating ail all the (1 the lime. wilh time. Flavour with to the vanilla sugar, or other flavouring, Aavouring, according 10 the recipe. (with custard) 1rzButter cream custllrd) n. cream (with II. CRME cnEw AU a,u BEURlnnunnE - ingredients. g. (18 oz.) 12 egg eggyolks. 2f cups) fine gredients. 12 yolks, 500 g" fine sugar, 2 oz.. 2i (l lb., g. (1 scant cup) fresh cream, 450 g, dl. (t lb .. 2 cups) butter, $ pint, seant I vanilla pod, or 1 I teaspoon 1 teaspoon vanilla essence. essence. yolks, Method. Work together the sugar, egg yol Melhod. ks. vanilla vanilla and cream in a basin. pan or a Jow low heat heat or or over a a pan or casserole Put the basin basin over a and whip the mixture half-full of hot water, and mixture until it il becomes Remove from the the heat and continue frothy, light and white. Remove it cools. cools. Mix Mix this custard with with the to whip until il ta whip unlil this eustard the creamed butter. butter. Custard creams creams can can be be flavoured various ways; ways; with in various Custard flavoured in tea or vanilla; lemon, orange or mandarin zest; with coffee, Ica liqueurs. cream syrup. CRME cniiur AU BEURRE BEURRE AU SYROP syRop Butter cre am with Syrllp. - Boil (l lb., 2 cups) cups) sugar and and 31 dl. (generous ] pint, I} l] 3t dl. 450 g. (l cups) water to 104C. 104"C. (22O'F.), making F), maki ng generous 5 dl. syrup. (vanilla, zest. Infuse the chosen flavouring flavouring (vanilla, zest, etc.) in in the syrup. over 12 egg egg yolks, beating Gradually pour the boiling syrup over (l lb., 2 g. (1 constantly. Pass through a fine fine sieve and and add 450 g. constant/y. cups) butter. Mix weil. well. (lf To make I litre cream. CREME cnius CHANTlLLY cHANTILLv make 1 litre (Ii Chantilly cream. - To (scant pint, quart), put tlitre pint,2f, thick pints, generous quart), 21 cups) Ihiek I litre (seant in a kept in fresh cream in a basin. basin. The cream should have been been kepl freso possible. Beat place, or if possible. Beat the for 24 24 hours, if ice, for a a cool cool place, or on on ice, fine on a fine it doubles doubles its volume. Drain Ihe the cream on cream until il (2 OZ., g. (2 Add 50 and 1 I teaspoon fine sugar sieve. Add 50 g. oz., ] cup) cup) fine sugar and sieve. vanilla sugar or a few drops vanilla essence. vanilla fruit. CRME AUx FRUITSFRUrrs cRiME CHANTILLY cHANrrLLy AUX Chantilly Chantilly cream with fruit. all kinds of fruit pulp, but strawberry This can be made with ail raspberry are are the most suitable. to the the whipped suitable. Add to or raspberry the most or pulp, passed passed through a third through a its volume volume of fruit pulp, cream a third of ils eream fine sieve. fine 2 dl. I. CRME cnius AU AU CHOCOLAT crrocot.,cr Pour 2 Chocolate Chocolate cream cream I. - Pour (4 oz., (t pint, seant g. (4 125 g. scant eup) cup) warm warm water over over 125 oz.,l| H cups) gentle heat grated chocolate. Stir over a a gentle heat until until the the mixture mixture Stir over then simmer for for 15 l5 minutes" minutes. Add Add 3 tablespoons tablespoons (scant boils, then 1 tablespoon butter. thick cream and and 1 * cup) fresh thick can be served cold. Usuallv sen'ed served hot but can

ct

Add melted Chocolate cream cream II. n. cnirun CRME AU AU cHocoI-lr CHOCOLAT melted - Add pint,2l Custard cream (see cups) Cuszard (seant pint, 2t cups) (see chocolate to 1] litre (scant below). egg yolks, L'ANGLersr 8 egg Custard cream. cniMs CRME A L'ANGLAlSE - Work 8 250 g. (9 oz., generous cup) fine sugar, and and a small pinch of until the salt in a spatula, over over a salt in a a pan with with a a gentle heat, heat, untl is lifted. mixture forms ribbons lifted. Moisten Moisten ribbons when the the spatula is gradually (scant pint, dl. (seant 5 dl. pint, 2f, cups) cups) boiled boi!ed milk, gradually with with 5 flavoured, lemon or orange orange according to ftavoured, aeeordng ta taste, with vanilla or lemon zest. all the time, Mix well. weiL Keep the pan pan on the heat, heat, stirring ail lime, until the AI this this point point the the custard until the contents almost almost boil. boil. At cling to the spatula. should c1ing Pass the cuslard custard through through a fine sieve and keep it warm in a a hot bain-marie (double boiler) if required to to accompany a pudding, and keep in lum it il out ouI into inlo a basin and n a cool place pudding, or turn it should be if to case, il be served cold. cold. In In the latter lat 1er case, be stirred ta be while cooling to 10 prevent prevenl a skin forming. This custard can be made more cheapl)' cheaply by using fewer egg yolks (6 instead of of 8) and by adding to the egg yolk and sugar mixture a a teaspoon teaspoon of arrowroot or fecula fecula (corn (corn or potato consistency to the the custard and starch). This gives a thicker thieker eonsistency prevents it allowed to overheat. il from clotting if alJowed addition of gelatine, for It is cold, with the Il is used used cold, the addition for cold (q.v.), Rice such as as bavarois bavarois (q.v.), charlottes (q.v.), d sweets, (q.v.), charlottes Rice sweets, such 1>Vl:nrn",rp (see RICE), etc. I'impiratrice A L'auctAIss coI-rEr gelatine. CRME L'ANGLAISE COLLECustard cream with gelatine. cRiME (desserts). Prepare the custard as Used cold sweels sweets (desserts). Used for for cold the custard (l oz.) g. (1 25 g, above. When When it add 25 it is is cooked, add described described above. in cold cold water. Sli!" Stir while soaked in while it gelatine which which has has been soaked the custard, dissolves. Strain S'rain Ihe custard. and stir while it cools. Custard cream with with liqueurs. liqueurs. CRME L'lucLAIsE l'ANGLAISE AUx AUX Custard cream cRiiME A in the same way LIeUEURs Prepare the custard cream cream in LIQUEURS the same way as - Prepare gelatrne. When When it is cool, creamwith cool, add a tablespoon Custard creom Cuslard with ge/mine. kirsch, maraschino, of liqueur: Curagao, kirsch. of ligllel!!" Curaao, maraschi no. rum, ru m. etc. MIRoIR cream au au miroir. cRiME AU AU MIROlR Custard cream Custard miroir. CRME - Custard glazed wilh cream glazed with a salamander salamander or hot hOI poker. cream pouR FOURRER filling for wafres 1. I. cniuE POUR FoURRER cream filling Custard cream Custard for waffles (9 oz g. (9 generous cup) butter, LEs cAUFRES - Whip 250 250 g. oz., .. generous g. (7 oz I cup) praline 250 g. (9 o2.,2 cups) icing sugar, 200 g. oz., .. 1 in a slightly warmed basin. When well use as as a m a weIl blended, blended, use filling filhng for waffies. filling for wames wafres n. II. CRME cninas pouR FoURRER Custard cream filliog Custard POUR FOURRER (9 g. LEs cAUFREs Cook 250 o2.,2 cups) LES GAUFRES Cook 250 g. (9 oz"' 2 lump sugar and ball I reaches the bal! scant 1 1 dl. (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, seant * cup) water till it reaches (see SUGAR). Skim and Put 15 15 egg and strain Ihe the syrup. Put stage (see it fall letting il syrup over them, letting yolks in a basin. Pour the sugar syrllp in a thin thread. Mix. Add 250 g. (9 oz., generous cup) butter (7 oz" g. (7 cup) praline, worked into a I Clip) a cream. cream. Add Add 200 g. oz., 1 worked into beating all the time. beating ail is given for these creams, one Although praline flavouring ftavouring IS flavouring. can also use coffee, chocolate, vanilla or orange flavourng. t'e,NGu.ISr AU lu cniw A L'ANGLAISE with tea. flavoured "ith tea. CREME Custard cream flavoured Custard replacing the castard cream, cream, replacing ruf Prepare llke TH _. Prepare like Mocha Mocha cus/ard a strong infusion of tea. coffee with a made by adding adding ta to the egg yolk can aiso also be custard can be made the egg The clJstard tea leaves have been infused whch tea and sugar mixture mixture milk in which (without boiling). cream. CRMJ' cnurc PTISSIRE, rAnssiltnr, DIfi FRANGIDIT"E FRANGIFrangipane Frangipane pastry cream. g. (7 oz., vrvr, -Ingredienls. flour, 4 whole oz., 1 lf PANE i cups) sifted flour. - Ingredients.200 g, yolks, I pints, generous generous quart) milk, eggs, 6 egg egg yolks, litre (lf pints, l litre eggs, (2 oz., g. (2 (4 oz. g. (4 50 g. oz., f cup) butler, butter, 100 oz. I cup) fine 50 ~ cup) lOQ g. fine sugar, Method. Mix the whole eggs, egg yolks, flour and sugar in in low heat. When they and form a a pan over low they are are smooth smooth and a a pan over beat. When when the spatula is lifted out of the pan add the milk milk the spalula s lf!ed ribbon when and butter. Cook over the heat, stirring cootinuously continuously with and butter. Cook the heat, the spatula. the crushed crushed macaroons. Cook, Cook, stirrng stirring spatula. Add the Add the prevent a skin fOlming. from time to time, to prevent forming. from

(ls

286 286

CREPE CRPE
pashy cream French pastry or Confectiooer's cream or Confectioner's custard. custard. CREME cniiup French pArtss$nn This pilfisserie for filling is is rnuch much used in plisserie used in for large large - This nlling gdteaux, and and small small gteaux, and in in the preparation of puddings, both the preparation of puddings, both and give two hot and and cold. cold. We We give two ways ways of of making making il, it, the the first first being being hot more economical. the more economical. the First metllOd. method. Put Put 50 g. 50 g. oz., } cup) sifted sifted f1our, flour, 175 175 g. Q oz., FirSI e. (2 ] cup) (6 OZ., crp) fine oz., ioi cup) pinch of fine sugar, sugar, a a small small pinch of sail, salt, 1 I tabJespoon tablespoon (6 good quality quality butler and 4 4 whole whole eggs butter and eggs in in a a thick-bottomed thick-bottomed good pan. Work Work the mixture wilh the mixture with a a sp,Hula spatula or or wooden wooden spoon. spoon. pan, (scant pint, pint, 2l Add :\litre (seant cups) boiling milk in in whieh 2{ cups) boiling milk which a a + lilre Add pod has vanilla pod infused, or has been been infused, or to to which which a a few few drops drops of of vanilla vanilla essence essence have put the have been added. Stir and put pan on been added. Stir and the pan on the the vanilla heat. Let Let it it boil few minutes, minutes, stirring boil for for a a few stirring constantly constantly to to heat. prevent the the cream cream frorn from catching on pan. on the bottom' bottorn of ofthe the pan. prevent Turn into into a a basin. Stir the the cream basin. Stir cream frorn from time time \0 to lime time as as it it Turn cools. cools. Second method. procedure, but method. Follow Follow the the saille same procedure, but modify Second the i ingredients: g.(2+ 65 g. l0 tablespoons) oz., IOta g. flour, 250 250 g. (2} OZ., blespoons) flour, the ngredicn ts; 65 (9 oz., generous cup) fine sugar, 6 (scant pint, oz., generous yolks, ~ pint, 6 egg yolks, (9 I litre (seant 2| cups) cups) milk milk flavoured flavoured with vanilla, a pinch ofsalt. a pinch of salt. 2i Mocha custard custard cream. cream. CRME cRiME ANGLAISE ANGLATsE AU AU \lOKA MoKA -. Mocha - Prepared in in the the same same way way as as a a simple simple ClIslard Custard cream, cream, but but Ihe the pared yolks and mixture of of egg and sugar egg yolks sugar is is rnoistened moistened with with milk milk in mixture which sorne some freshly roasted roasted coffee beans infused. beans have been been infuscd. which (The infusion infusion is is made made by heating the the milk milk and and coffee beans (The without allowing allowing it it to to bail.) boil.) without proMsdnEs - 'Put yolks PlombiCres cream. cream. CRME cRiME PLOMBIRES egg yolks Plombires - 'Put 8 egg and 1 I tablespoon rice rice Rour glasses flour in in a a casserole. Add Add 3 3 glasses and (cups) good good milk put the milk which is almost boiling; pan on which is the pan on a a boiling: put (cups) moderate heat heat and and stir continuously with stir continuously with a a wooden spoon. moderale When the mixture begins la to thicken, remove from from the thicken, remove the heat Whcn the mixture and continue to stir until smooth. Cook for a a few few minutes Cook for and to stir until smoolh. longer. This cream cream must be be of of the consistency as as an an the same consistency longer. This ordinary French (6 OZ., French pastry g. (6 cream. Mix Mix in 175 g. oz., i cup) ordinary pastry cream. in 175 fine pinch of sugar and and a a minute of salt. Pour the mixture mixture "up) into into. fine sugar minute pinch another pan and sel set it on ice, from time stirring from It another pan and it on ice, slin'ing lime to time. time. Il thickens good half as it cools. Just mix in Just before serving, in a a good serving, mix half thickens as it cools. glass liqueur and of liqueur a saucerful and a saucerful of cream. The glass of of whipped whipped eream. whole, amalgamated, should should produce a light, whole, well weil arnalgamated. produce a light, velvety cream consistency. Arrange of a a perfect perfect consistency. Arrange the the cream Cream in a silver cream of dish, or in small pots, a pastry-case, specially made biscuitdish, or in small pots, a pastry-case. a a specially biscuitcase, or (From a dish-shaped container of or in in a dish-shapcd container of almond paste'. paste. (From case, Ie Cuisinier royal royalby and Fouret, le Cuisinier by Viard Viard and Fourel. 1828). 1828). Praline PraJine custard custard cream. cream. cnilc CRME pnlrlN6 PRALINE Add praline praline to ta - Add Custard cream. Cus/ard cream. St This is St Honor6 Hooor cream. cream. cnirraE CRME sArNT-HoNons SAINT-HONOR - This is French pastry paslry cream crearn to 10 which which stiffiy stiffly beaten bealen egg whites are are added when when the Ihe cream crcam is is still still boiling. boiling. Use 16 16 egg egg whites whites for a a cream crearn made made with with I 1 litre litre (lf (Ii pints, pints, generous generous quart) quart) milk, milk, 500 500 g. g. (18 (18 oz., OZ., 2| 2i cups) cu ps) fine fine sugar sugar and l6 16 egg egg yolks. yolks.
PTISSIRE -

jours de Aux jours de dme dtme el et de taille de laille Alix Cricy fUI une balaille, bataille, Crey fut une Dont le pays maltrail le pays maltraitd Dont plaie au Garde la la pfl1ie au cOl. c|td. Garde Combat d'eSLOc d'estoc eL et de de laille taille l! Combat De celle cette cruelle cruelle en/aille, entaille, De O conlraSle! contraste! Il n'est n'est rest resti o potage rput, rdputi. QU'lin Qu'un po/age Le lemps temps a, a, pour nos nos dlresses, ditresses, Le D' irri sist ib les caresses cares se s D'irrsistihles Dont chaqlle chaque ge dge es/adouci. est adouci. Donl Ligumes Laills piices taillis en en pices Lgllmes Disent seuls, seuls, en en ce ce lemps-ci temps-ci Disen/ grands comhats combats de de CreJ'.' Cricy ! Les grands

This sonnet play on the is a the word sonnet is a playon word raille, taille, and and is is really really This untranslatable. The The sense sense is is this: this: In In the the days days of of lithes tithes and and untranslatabJe. taxes there there was a battle was a battle at at Crecy Cr6cy from from which which Ihe the district taxes greatly. Of suffered greatly. Of this this cut-and-thrust cut-and-thrust fighting, fighting, this suffrcd this cruel cruel slashing, nothing nothing remains remains bUI a famous famous soup. soup. Time but a Time has slashing, has a a way of healing healing dislress, distress, and and vc:getables vegetables eut cut into pieces arc are the record of ofthe fights at Crecy. Crdcy. only record the great fights CREMANT-- Word used used for Champagne Champagne wines which have CRMANT only a smalJ small amount of creamy froth. onlya

(A LA) CREME ( LA) Name given given ta to meat meat and and vegetable CRME - Name preparations, of which pan juices are which the the pan are mixed wilh preparations, with fresh e.g. Mushrooms Mushrooms li d la crme crime (see MUSHROOMS). MUSHROOMS). cream e.g.
CRDME RENVERSEE RENvERSnn Ivtade like like Caramel cusLard custard (see CRME lsee - Made CUSTARD). Custard cream cream poured into a a mould, mould, cooked CUSTARD). in the oyen oven in a a bain-marie and and lurned turned out when cold. CREMETS SAUMUR CRMETS D'ANGERS, DE SAUMUR - Cream cheeses to which gradually which egg whites are added. They are prepared by gradually and whipped egg whites, adding fresh stiffiy whipped cream and beating all the time, so that elements ts are properly bea ting ail t hal the various elemen amalgamated. The mixture is put put in in perforated perforated moulds, amalgamared, The mixlure is covered and left to drain in a cool place. To covercd with fine nne muslin, and]en serve, crimets are are turned of their serve, the the crmets lurned out out of their moulds moulds and covered cream. covered with fresh cream. CREOLE culinary preparations, CROLE (A ( LA) - Term for ror various culinary preparations, usually lIsually containing containing a rice ricc garnish, garnish. prepared as a pilaf pilaf or d la criole simmered in oil, and crole and finished with sweet peppers simmered with wilh tomatoes. A Criole can also A la Crole a150 apply to sweet swcet dishes. Most of of these these are prepared with wilh rice, rice. and flavoured with orange. orange. CREPE. eggs and CRPE. eANcAKE PANCAKE - A A dish dish made of a batter baller of eggs flour, poured pourcd sparingly sparingly into a frying-pan, and fried friOO on both sides. sides. CrGpe 1. pArr PTE A cntprs CRPF.5 - Mix Mix 500 g. (18 (18 oz., OZ., 4| 4t cups) Crpe batter baHer I. sifted oz" scant seant cup) fine sugar, a CI small pinch pinch sifted flour, 200 g. (7 oz., salt, and a vanilla vanilla pod pod (or a few drops vanilla vanilla essence, added added after the by one, Ihe eggs). Add 8 whole wholc eggs and 4 yolks, one by working batter with a wooden wood en spoon spoon until until well weil mixed. working the the batter Add Add * J litre (l{ (1! pints, pints. lf, Il pints) pints) milk, milk, and 2 2 to to 3 tablespoons tablespoons Cognac or other liqueur, liqueur, and 25 25 g. g, (l (1 o2.,2 OZ., 2 tablespoons) tablespoons) butter, brown. bUller, which which has has been bcen heated hea ted until un ril light brown. The batter balter should be be made made in in advance advance and left to ta stand. sland. Cr0pe fi. pAre PTE A cnEprs CR.PES - Mix 5009. 500g. (l8oz, (1 80z., 4j 4}- cups) cups) Crpe batter batter IL flolrr, flour, 150 g. g. (5 (5 oz., OZ., generous generous i 1- c,rp) cup) fine fine sugar, sugar, and and a pinch pinch of salt. Add Add 10 la eggs. eggs. Work Work the Ihe mixture mixlure until until it it is is smooth, smooth, and and add add 3 3 dl. dL (t (t pint, pinl, lf li cups) cups) fresh fresh cream, crcam, + t dl. (3 (3 tablespoons, tablespoons, scantf cup) Cognac, g. (3 (3 oz., OZ., 6 6 tablespoons) tablespoons) melted melted butter butter scant !-cup) Cognac, 75 75 g. and 1 1 litre litre (If; (Ii pints, pinlS, generous generous quart) milk. Strain Strain through through a fine ~ dl. dl. (3 () tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant f t cup) ClIp) orgeat orgeat syrup, syrup, fine sieve. sieve. Add Add + and and 100 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz., OZ., I 1cup) Clip) finely finely crushed crushed macaroons. macaroons. Flavour Flavour to to taste. tas te.
287 287

CREAM CREAM SAUCE SAUCE - See See SAUCE. SAUCE.

CREAM CREAM SOUPS. SOUPS. cRiues, CRMES, porAcEs POTAGES - Thickened Thickened soups, based fish or or shellfish. shellfish. (See (See based on on cereal, cereal, vegetables, vegelables, fowl, fowl. fish souPs SOUPS AND AND BROTHS.) BROTHS.)
CRECY CRECY (A ( LA) LA) - Name Name for for various various preparations, preparations, especially especially a pure Crdcy. Crcy. All Ali dishes dishes named named in in this this way a soup soup called called purde include include a a garnish garnish of of carrots carrOIs and some are exclusively made made from from carrots carrots (see (see SOUPS SOUPS AND AND BROTHS). BROTHS). This This name name has has been been given given to 10 various various dishes dishes because because of of the Ihe high high quality quality of of the the carrots carrots harvested harvested at Crlcy, Crey, a small town town in in the the Seine-et-Marne. Seine-et-Marne. Some Sorne authors authors insist insiSI that that the the name name of of this this soup soup comes from of a a small small town town in in the Ihe Somme, near near which the the from that thal of Battle Batlle of of Cr6cy Crcy took took place place in in 1346. 1346. Monselet Monselet leans leans towards lowards this be seen secn from from his his sonnet called called la la Pur6e Pure this view, view, as as can can be Cr6cy: Crcy:

CRPINETTES CREPINETTES
with pancakes Sprinkle with slant at both ends. Sprinkle pancakes and trim them them on a slant icing Icmg sugar and glaze in a hot oven. cREpEs AU Crpes with with Roquefort. Roquefort. CRPES AU RoQUEFoRT ROQUEFORT - Make Crpes pancakes with unsweetened batter. batter. Spread them with small pancakes the following mixture: (3 tablespoons) Roquefort cheese Work 2 2 tablespoons (3 Work pas te. Add 4 tablespoons (5 (5 tablespoons) tablespoons) Bichamel Bchamel into a a paste. pepper and nutmeg. sauce (see SAUCE). Season Season with pepper flreproof dish, a fireproof Roll ~oll up uP. the pancakes. pancakes. Arrange Arrange them on a glaze in a a hot oven. and glaze spnnkle wlth grated cheese, and sprinkle with and Edam Crpes Parmesan, Cantal, Brie, and Gruy6re, Parmesan, Cr4pes with Gruyre, cheese can be made in the same way. pancakes with with a a batter Make thin thin pancakes Crpes Cr0pes Suzette Suzette - Make ftavoured mandarin orange juice. and mandarin flavoured with Curaao Curagao and Spread them with the the following mixture: g. (2 oz.,;\: c,tp) oz.,i cup) Cream Cream 50 g. (2 OZ., oz., i I cup) fine sugar with 50 g. juice of a grated zest, its grated butter. Add the juice butter. a mandarin mandarin orange, orange, its with a and Work the the mixture with and 1 I good tablespoon Curaao. Curagao. Work spatula. spatula. four, them into four, fold them Spread the this filling, fold the pancakes with this and and serve hot.

Crpes filled filled with with strawberries Crapes

(18 OZ., Crpe batter balter III. pArE PTE e CRPES g. (18 oz., 4~ cn6pns CrGpe $ - Mix 500 g. cups) flour, ftour, I150 ~ cup) of cup) fine sugar, a pinch of 50 g. (5 OZ., oz., generous j salt, l0 10 eggs. Work the mixture mixture and add 4 dl. (* pint, pin t, scant 2 cups) cream cream and j ~ litre (scant (scant pint, 2;\: cups) milk. Flavour to pint,2f, taste. (18 OZ., Crpe batter IV. IV. pirE PTE e cnEpEs CRPES g. (18 oz., ~ Cr6pe batter $ - Mix 500 g. c~ps) sifted g. (5 OZ., generous 1 cup) fine sugar, a cups) flour, 150 I 50 g. oz, generous~ sifted ftour, pmch mixture yolks. Work the pinch of salt, 4 whole eggs eggs and and 5 yolks. the mixture: add I 1 litre (If, (Ii pints, generous quart) quart) milk and and finish with 6 add stiffiy beaten egg whites. Flavour to taste. tas te. pArn Savoury crpe batter. PTE is used cnBpEs SALES slrfrs -- This is A CRPES crOpe baffer. for soup hot hors-d'uvre. garnishes and 250 g. Work 250 for soup garnishes and hot hors-d'euvre. Work S. (9 2 cups) (9 OZ., in a a basin basin; cups) sifted sifted ftour flour and 4 eggs together in o2.,2{ ( l{ pints: seas?n teaspoons salt. pints, 1+ teaspoons with I! salt. Moisten with i season wit~ f litre (I} li mdk, which has been boiled down by one third. The pints) milk, lf plOtS) milk can be replaced by stock or broth. Alsatian crpes. Pancakes made Alsatian crGpes. CRPES ALsACIENNEs cnfipns ALSACIENNES - Pancakes ~rom batter, filled filled with with redcurrant redcurrant or or raspberry from a a ~rpe cr2pe batter, jelly, spnnkled Jelly, glazed in a and glazed a hot oven. sprinkled with sugar and poMMEs - See Apple crpes. DE POMMES APPLE, Crpes CrApes Appfe crGpes. CRPES cnEpEs DE - See APPLE, stuffed apples. stuffed with apples. Buckwheat crpes, galetous. CRPES nr6 NOIR NolR, cr6pes, calle<! called galetous. cn0prs AU eu BL DITES (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) olive oil oil orrns GALTOUS carftous tablespoons (3 - Put 2 tablespoons in a 2 cups 2 small glasses brandy, 2 2 pinches salt, 2 in a ba~in basin with 2 sour mdk, flour. Mix weil. well. g. (18 OZ., milk, 500 g. oz., 4t + cups) buckwheat fIour. Add eggs, one one by one, and and work work the the mixture Add 8 8 whole whole eggs, by one, thoroughly to to avoid lumps. Cook griddle which pancakes on rubbed has been a griddle which has the pancakes on a been rubbed Cook the with butter or fat. fat. This is is a a Breton speciality. Crpes rn CVENOLE Make the la cvenole. c6venole. CRPES cnf;pEs A LA cEveNolE -- Make CrGpes i la crpes in the usual way, When they crApes-in way, with a a sweetened sweetened batter. When are pur6e of with a a thin thin layer layer of of a a pure of each one one with are cooked cooked cover each marrons glacis, ftavoured flavoured with rum. marrons glacs, Roll pancakes and Roll up the pancakes and arrange arrange on on a a fireproof dish. dish. up the Glaze in the oven. Glazs them in Potato crpes A TO, Potata POTATO, Potato pancakes. crGpes See POT - See Crpes purposes. CRPES garnist4 and cn6pes for other other purposes. a soup soup garnish, and for Cr6pes as as a porAcES -- Prepared pouR G.ARNITURE POUR DE POTAGES Prepared in in the the ordinary ordinary cARNrruRE DE way, pancake batter, with unsweetened or with with Savoury Savoury way, wlth unsweetened pancake batter, or crpe (See GARNISHES.) GARNISHES.) cr2pe baller. batter. (See Crpes DRs CHARTREUX Prepare a CrGpes Chartreux. Chartreux. CRPES cnEpns DES a cHARTREUx -- Prepare pancake grated zest pancake mixture and zest of and add add crushed crushed macaroons, macaroons, grated of an pancakes in in and sorne fine Champagne. the pancakes an orange and some fine Champagne. Cook Cook the the usual usual way. Serve creamed butter blended with crushed crushed meringues meringues Serve with crearned blended with and green Chartreuse. with green Finish as as for for Crpes CrApes and ftavoured flavoured with Chartreuse. Finish Suzelle (see below). Suzette (see below). Raspberry crGpes. CRPES FRAMBoISES -- Cover thin Raspberry crpes. cnEpEs AUX AUx FRAMBOISES Cover thin pancakes pur6e, made by pancakes with removing stems stems of of with raspberry pure, by removing r~spberries in sugar liqueur. Thicken Thicken raspberries and and soaking them in sugar and and liqueur. soaking them wlth (see CREAMS). pastry cream Roll up up the the with French CREAMS). Roll French pastry cream (see

in cau!. Most encased in caul. Most CRPINETTES sausages, encased Small sausages, CREPINETTES - Small layer of of forcemeat. forcemeat. similar preparations preparations are enclosed in in a a layer are enclosed caul. salt pork can be be substituted for the cau!. Paper-thin slices slices of salt in melted melted Crpinelles, are usually covered in Cripinettes, however made, are butter fresh breadcrumbs and fat, coated coated with with fresh other fat, butter or or other in the oven. grilled. They can cooked in can be sauted saut6ed or cooked In the Pieds cendrillon. cendrillon. In the Very are called called Pieds crdpinettes are Very small crpinelles past they were wrapped in in sheets sheets ofspecial of special paper and cooked in the on the same same way they are are cooked cooked in cinders. Nowadays they on hot cinders. fine pastry and as in a a thin thin sheet sheet of finepastry as crpinelles, crdpinettes, or enclosed in cooked in the cooked in the oven. When grilled, or in the oven, crpinelles cripinettes cooked in the oven, When they are grilled, or cooked they are potatoes. They They can can are pur6e of accompanied by a pure of potatoes. are usually usually accompanied by a are also be or, if they they are a strongly seasoned sauce, sauce, or, strongly seasoned be served served with a (see SAUCE). truffied, with a a Prigueux Pirigueux sauce (see SAUCE). When includes diced are truffied, truffied, the the stuffing stuffing includes When crpinelles cripinettes are of is, and and a alarge slice of truffies, whatever large slice whatever the basic ingredient is, in enclosing it it in placed on truffie on top top of the the stuffing stuffing before before enclosing is placed truffie is the caul. the cau!. pork Crpinettes PORK, Cinderella Cinderella pork Cr6pinettes cendrillon cendrillon See PORK, - See
crpine Iles. cripinettes.

with Chic ken crpinettes. DE VOLAILLE voLAILLE -- Made with Chicken cr6pinettes. CRPINETTES cnfprNetrrs DE in a a mushrooms in minced with truffies and mushrooms minced fowl, fowl, combined combined with truffies and way as as concentrated in the the same same way concentrated, Velout Velouti sauce (see SAUCE) SAUCE) in (see below). Lamb crpinelles cripinettes (see with D'AGNEAU -- Prepared with .Lamb cn6pwnrrrs D'AGNEAU Lamb crpinettes. cr6pinettes. CRPINETTES a white white or mmced or brown brown and a lamb. mushrooms, mushrooms, truffies truffies and minced lamb, in caul. caul. sauce, forcemeat and and wrapped wrapped in in a a delicate delicate forcemeat sauce, enclosed enclosed in poRc -- Flat Pork Flat sausages. sausages. DE PORC Pork crpinettes. cr6pineffes. CRPINETTES cREpINETTEs DE pig's Crpinettes with minced minced pig's Made with Cr6pinettes Sainte-Menehould Sainte-Menehould - Made (with or gravy (with veal gravy or tr?tters, with concentrated concentrated brown brown veal trotters, b~und bound with pork forcemeat forcemeat in a a fine fine pork wl~hout enclosed in truffies) enclosed without dl.ced diced truffies) (wlth (with or in caul. caul. and wrapped wrapped in without truffies), and or Wlthout TrufHed with rRurrfrs -- Made Made with cr6pinettes. CRPINETTES cn6pnErrrs TRUFFES Trufred crpinettes. pork forcemeat sausage a fine fine pork forcemeat and and diced diced meat, or or with with a sausage meat, (4 oz.). g. (4 Wrap truffies. portions weighing 100 g. oz.). Wrap into portions weighing 100 Divide into truffies. Divide each piece of portion in in a a piece of cau!. caul. each portion grill under Cover a and grill under a uipinettes with with melted melted butter butter and Cover the the crpinelles gentle pur6e of potatoes and and Prigueux Pdrigueux gentle heat. a pure with a of potatoes heat. Serve Serve with (see SAUCE). sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Veal minced vEAU -- Made Made with with minced cr6pinettes. CRPINETTES cRfpINErrEs DE DE VEAU Veal crpinettes. veal, in the way a white white or or brown the same same way veal, combined combined with with a brown sauce, sauce, in as Lamb crpinelles. cripinettes. as Lamb
plants which CRESSo which given to Name given two separate separate plants cREssoN -- Name to two CRESS. CRESSON garden have properties. One is watercress, the other other garden woteruess, the have similar One is similar properties.

C/ess. cress.
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CROQUANT CROQUANT

Jam Jam croissants croissants (Austrian (Austrian pAtisserie) ptisserie)

To To these these two two species species should should be be added added lady's lady's smock, slnoek, the the leaves leaves of of which which are are sweeter sweeter than than those those of of watercress. watercress. They They are in spring spring salads. salads. Rock Rock cress eress is is eaten eaten in in salad in in the the are eaten eaten in Vosges, is more more bitter bitter than than watercress. watercress. There There is is also also wl'ld lVild Vosges, and and is
cresso cress.
Cress Cress has has a a slightly slightly bitter bitter taste, tas te, like Iike that that of of mustard. mustard. The in cooking cooking is is watercress. watercress. It is is used used The cress cress most most used llsed in raw, to garnish gar:1ish grilled griJled and and roast roast meats, meats, or or in in salad. salado Although Although raw, to it it is is excellent excellent cooked, cooked, it it is is not not often often treated treated in in this this way. way. Cress contains con tains iron, iron, sulphur, sulphur, calcium calcium and, and, most most important, important, Cress iodine is easily easily assimilable). assimilable). It lt also also contains con tains a large large iodine (which (which is quantity of antiscorbutic antiscorbutic Vitamin Vitamin C. C. Wild Wild cress cress should should not not quantity of be eaten eaten as as it it can can transmit transmit parasites. parasites. When When cress cress is is to ta be be eaten eaten be raw, raw, it it should should be be picked picked over over carefully, carefully, the the thicker thicker stems stems and and

yellowing yellowing or or faded faded leaves Ieaves removed, removed, and and the the rest rest quickly quickly
washed and and drained, drained. It It should should not not be be left left to to soak soak in in water. water. washed For For recipes recipes see see WATERCRESS. WATERCRESS. CRESTED LARK. LARK. cocHEvrs COCHEVIS - See See LARK. LARK. CRESTED CRETAN DITTANY. DITTANY. DrcrAME DICTAME DE DE cnire CRETE - Aromatic Aromatic CRETAN labinate formerly formerly used used in in treacle. treacle. It It is is sometimes sometimes used used in in the the labinate of liqueurs. liqueurs . manufacture of manufacture

CREUX (Wine) (Wine) - French French term term applied applied to to wine wine which whicb lacks Jacks CRELIX body . body. CREVER (To (To burst) borst) - The The use use of of the the word word crever crever gives gives many many CREVER be cooked cooked to to the the people the the mistaken mistaken belief belief that that rice rice should should be people point of of bursting, bursting, when when it it becomes becomes a a glutinous, glutinous, insipid insipid mass mass point (see (see RICE). RICE).
CRIQUET - Insect of the the same same family family as as the the grassgrassCRICKET. cRreuE'r CRICKET. - Insect of is eaten eaten in in some same countries. countries. hopper. lt It is hopper.

CROCK POT POT-- A Acrock crack pot, pot, commercially commercially produced produced under under a a CROCK variety of oftrade trade names, names, is is an an electrically electricaUy operated aperated counter-top counter-top variety well-insulated cooking cooking appliance appliance that that cooks cooks food food at a a low low well-insulated temperature for for many many hours. hours . Manufacturers' Manufacturers' research research temperature of recipes, recipes, but but the the kitchens have have invented invented a a large large repertoire repertoire of kitchens crock pot pot is is particularly particularly useful useful for for such such foods faods as as stews, stews, soups, soups. crock baked beans. beans, etc. etc. baked eaten in in some sorne countries countries for for its its alleged alleged restorative restorative properties. properties. eaten ALLIGATOR) . (See ALLIGATOR). (See
ple feuilletee feuillete (puff (puff pastry), pastry), or or with with a a leavened leavened dough dough for for pArc is given given below. below. which the the recipe recipe is which in Budapest Budapest in in 1686, 1686, when wh en This delicious delicious pastry pastry originated originated in This the Turks Turks were were besieging besieging the the city. city. To To reach reach the the centre centre of of the the the underground passages. passages. Bakers, Bakers, working working town, they they dug d ug underground town, by the the Turks Turks and and gave gave du ring the the night, night, heard heard the the noise noise made made by during the alarm. aJarm. The The assailants assailants were were repulsed repulsed and and the the bakers bakers who who the

had had saved the the city were granted the privilege privilege of making a special special pastry pastry which which had had to ta take the form farm of a crescent in memory memary of of the the emblem on the Ottoman Ottoman flag. fiag . Put g. (18 oz., 2| 21 cups) sifted flour fiour on the table, and Put 500 g. place 20 e. g. G (5 oz.) dry dry yeast yeast in in the the middle middJe of the the flour. fiouf. place 20 Moisten the lukewann milk milk and the yeast yeast with a little little lukewarm and incorporate quarter ofthe of the flour. fiouf. Let the dough rise. porate one quarter g. (7 oz' oz., scant seant cup) butter and Add a pinch of salt, 200 g. Add dl. (+ (t pint, pint, scant scant cup) milk. milk. Mix these weil with the the re2 dl. 2 well with maining flour fiaur and the the other dough, working it all ail together maining if necessary, with a little extra milk. The and moistening moistening it, if and be firm, firm, rather than soft. soft. Roll it into a bail, dough should be a ball, coyer with with a a cloth c10th and leave to ta rise. cover it into into pieces pieces the size size of ofan egg. Using Using a a rolling-pin Divide it Divide an egg. the pieces pieces out out into into ovals and and then then roll roll them them up up into roll the crescents. Place Place them them on a baking sheet and and leave leave to to rise. crescents. with milk and bake bake in a hot oven. aven. As soon as as they are Brush with (seant t ready, baste baste with with a mixture of 3 tablespoons (scant ready, * cup) j litre patata flour fiour and andi litre (scant pint, 2f, 2{ cups) boiled water. potato Bakers usually sell sell two two sorts sorts of croissants, those made Bakers ta butter, and and 'the others', others', which no no law law obliges him to with butter, declare are are 'made with with margarine'. margarine'. declare CROISSANTS Ar-rx AUX AMANDTs AMANDES - Pound Almond croissants. croissants. cRorssANTs Almond 300 g. g. (ll (Il o2.,2 oz., 2 cups) peeled almonds and and 300 g. (ll (II oz., 300 2~ cups) cups) vanilla-flavoured vanilla-fiavoured sugar in in a a mortar, mortar, moistening moistening 2] little by by little liule with with egg egg white in sufficient quantity quantity to obtain a little obtain a be rolled out by hand. Add 2 tablespoons tablespoons paste which which can be paste tablespoons) flour fiour to this paste. (3 tablespoons) and roll these these with Divide into into pieces pieces the the size size of a nut, and Divide beaten egg egg and and roll fioured hands hands into into cigar shapes. shapes. Dip in beaten floured in chopped almonds. almonds. Shape Shape them them into crescents crescents on on them in them of paper paper laid laid on baking baking sheets. Brush with egg yolk. sheets of sheets 10 minutes minutes in the the oven oyen at medium heat. heat, and Bake for for 8 to to l0 Bake then brush brush with with sweetened sweetened milk. milk. then Jam croissants croissants (Austrian (Austrian pfitisserie). ptisserie). cRorssANTS CROISSANTS AUx AUX Jam CONFITURES - Cut Pull pastry pastry (see (see DOUGH) into coNFIruREs some Puff - Cut sorne of jam on one one side side ofeach of each triangular pieces. pieces. Put Put a a teaspoon teaspoon ofjam triangular triangle, and and roll roll up up as as for ordinary croissants. Put them them on on triangle, at a a good heat. heat. a baking baking sheet, sheet, brush brush with with egg egg yolk, yolk, and and bake bake at a Wheo ready, ready, sprinkle sprinkle with with fine sugar. sugar. When
CROMESQUI --Small entre or or hot hot hors-d'euvre hors-d'uvre made made with with CROMESQUI'Small entrie salpicon (q.v.) enclosed enclosed in in a a pig's caul caul (or (or slices slices of of salt salt a salpicon a pork) dipped dipped in in batter batter and and deep-fried. deep-fried. (See (See HORSHORSpork) D'UVRE, Hot Hot hors-d' hors-d'uvre.) D'(EUVRE, euvre.) birds, especially especially grain-eating grain-eating birds. birds. In ln the the drawing drawing of of birds, poultry and and winged winged game, game, the the crop crop is is removed. removed . poultry CROQUANT (Pfltisserie) (Ptisserie) - Petit four which, which, as as its its name name CROQUANT - Petit four indicates, crunches crunches when when bitten. bitten. indicates, in a a mortar mortar 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz.,l] oz., l} cups) cups) almonds almonds blended blended Pound in Pound CROP. JABor JABOT - A dilation of of the the gullet forming forrning a a pouch in in CROP. - A dilation

CROCODILE - Reptile Reptile with with strong-smelling strong-smelling flesh. fiesh. It lt is is CROCODILE

CROISSANT - Crescent-shaped Crescent-shaped roll roll generally generally made made with with CROISSANT

289 289

CROQUE AU SEL CROQUE

(18 OZ., g. (18 added little by little. little. Add 500 g. with 4 egg whites, added oz., 2f cups) fine sugar and and 1 I tablespoon vanilla sugar or a a few few 2* drops vanilla extract. Strain through a fine sieve. Make the paste into little boat-shapes, boat-shapes, roll in brown sugar and put them on on a a buttered sheet. Bake Bake in a very and put them buttered baking baking sheet. in a moderate oyen. oven.

the mould and remove the croquembouche. Set it on a pastry orange segments dipped base, and complete by adding more orange with an spun sugar. sugar, topping it with in glazing sugar, an aigrette of spun in glazed in cherries glazed in sugar cooked to Decorate with preserved preserved cherries stage. crack stage.

(A LA) CROQLIE AU SEL ( Term for food food which is CROQUE is eaten - Tenu seasoned only with salt. Artichokes d la croque au sel are raw seasoned are example. an example.
(Pitisserie) CROQUEMBOUCHE (Ptisserie) CROQUEMBOUCHE - Made with ingredients which crunch crunch between glazed the teeth teeth because between the because they which they are are glazed au cass cassd (to the crack stage). with sugar which is cooked au The typical croquembouche is that made typical croquembouche made of choux proThe is that of choux glazed with sugar, with sorne some kind cream, m, glazed kind of crea fiteroles filled with and arranged one on top of the other. ofthe can also also be made of Genoese pastries, Croquembouches can be made pas tries, almond paste, and various fruits, the one one most paste, and meringues, almond frequently made today being croquembouche of oranges. frequently (Car6me's recipe)' Croquembouche of of chestnuts chestnuts (Carme's recipe)' CROCroquembouche cRo'Grill 60 DE MARRONS MARRoNs GLACS crncEs fine Spanish QUEMBOUCHE - 'Grill 60 fine euEMBoucHE DE chestnuts, and and after after having chestnuts, having peeled them them and and removed any glazeby ofburning, in sugar cooked to traces of burning, glaze by dipping them in Place them, as the crack stage (see SUGAR). Place as soon as glazed, mould. into a mould. to be 'The croquembouche has to be piled up at the the last minute before serving, because the moisture contained in the chestto soften soften the sugar and and make it lose both its connuts tends to sistency sistencv and its brilliance.'

as an Hot sandwich served as CROQUE-MONSIEUR - Hot sandwich served CROQUE-MONSIEUR hors-d'euvre or small entre. entrde. hors-d'uvre loaf. Spread with butter on Cut slices slices from a fresh or stale loar. Gruydre cheese on top, with a one si de, and lay laya a thin slice of Gruyre side, the sandwich sandwich and fry lean ham on top of that. Close the slice of lean in cJarified until golden in clarified butter. butter.
famous are CROQITETS-Dry of which the most famous CROQUETS - Dry petitsfours petitsfours ofwhich those of the Bordeaux area. Bar almond cRoeuETS DE DE BAR Bar BAR AUx AUX AMANDES almond croquets. croquets. CROQUETS ( I 8 OZ., Ingredients. 2l 2lcups) fi ne sugar, 250 g. (9 OZ., oz., 2* oz., 2* Ingredients. 500 g. (18 cups) fine g. (10 OZ., 2j cups) sifted flour, cups) ground almonds, 275 g. ftour, 8 oz., 2! I tablespoon tablespoon vanilla sugar. egg whites, 1 Method. Moisten the sugar and ground almonds almonds in a basin whites worked in one at a time. time: Mix in the sifted with the egg whites flour and and vanilla sugar. sugar. Arrange Arrange on a baking sheet in baking sheet in the ftour on a shape of ofleaves, leafshape, shape leaves, using a thin piece piece of card bent into leaf sha pe, ofcard or a special metal cutter. gentle oyen. in a Bake in a gentle When ready, leave leave to to cool cool on on a Bake oven. When jar or tin, and keep in a dry place. marble slab. Store in a jar croquets. CROQUETS cRoeuETs BORDELAIS BoRDELATS Pound 300 g. Bordelais croquets. - Pound (ll1 OZ., o2.,2 cups) peeled almonds in mortar with 150 g. a mortar with 150 (1 2 cups) peeled almonds in a (5 OZ., g. (10 OZ., oz., scant cup) unpeeled oz., lf (5 unpeeled almonds, 275 g. Ik cups) g. (4 OZ., grated oz., t sugar, 100 g. eggs, the the grated butter, 2 whole eggs, sugar, i cup) butter,2 of a lemon orange, a packet of zest of lem on or orange, of powdered yeast and a pinch of salt. and roll into into the fonu form of a up and a large boudin boudin (black Chop up pudding), at the edges. Place on on a a baking pudding), slightly flattened ftattened at the edges. baking sheet. Brush with egg, egg, score it, and and bake for for 15 minutes in a sheet. moderate oyen. oven. Cut into slices. slices. salpicon CROQUETTES - Small preparations made with a salpicon containing, as (q.v.) bound with a white or brown sauce and containing, well as as the the basic ingredient, chopped mushrooms, truffies truffles well basic ingredient, sometimes lean ham. and sometimes They can also be made with potatoes or other vegetables, fresh or or dried; dried; with with rice rice cooked cooked in in stock water; with fresh stock or or water; and Bichamel various forms of pasta combined with cheese and Bchamel sauce (see SAUCE); or with a hash or a forcemeat ofvarious of various meats or fish. Sweet croquettes are made with rice cooked in milk, with or with with a a salpicon salpicon of fruit combined with semolina, or fruit combined with stiff (see CREAM). Croquets French pastry cream cream (see Croquers is is the the name element of of croquettes croquettes made with a basic element given to a number of pasta. salpicon (q.v.) of 500 g. Preparation of croquettes Preparation - Mix a salpicon (18 oz.) of the principal element (poultry, game, veal, veal, lamb (9 oz.) very small g. (9 small dice dice with or offal) offal) cut cut up up into into very with 250 250 g. or g. (4 oz.) diced diced mushrooms and and 100 g. diced truffles. cooked, diced truffies. with 1 I dl. (6 tablespoons, Moisten with tablespoons, scant -t Moisten Madeira and I cup) Madeira heat in the oyen oven in a covered pan. (f pint, scant 2 cups) cups) Velout Velouti sauce (see SAUCE) Add 4 dl. <i which has been and to which which 3 egg yolks have which been boiled down and thickness has been reached. Stir been added after the desired thickness well over heat. Pour into a buttered baking baking dish, and dab the forming. Allow to cool surface with butter butter to prevent a crust forming. croquettes. completely before making making the croquettes. made with with fish or shellfish have Croquettes made fish or have only only mushthem. rooms and truffies truffles added to them. g. (2 to of about 50 to 75 g. Divide the mixture into portions portions of of egg ftoured table, dip in a mixture of 3 oz.). Roll these on a floured cover entirely witb with fine fine breadand olive oil beaten together, coyer shape them into corks, balls, eggs or rectangles. crumbs, and shape

Croquembouche of oranges of oranges Croquernbouche

D'oRANcRs Croquembouche Croquembouche of oranges. CROQUEMBOUCHE cRoeuEMBoucHE D'ORANGESDip segments segments of orange in sugar cooked cooked to to crack crack stage. stage. Dip in sugar Arrange them one Arrange in a one on on top top of the other other in a croquembouche mould. When the sugar is is cold, lightly heat the periphery of

290

CROQUETTES CROQUETTES
Arrange tbem grill or them on on a a grill in aa frying or in frying basket, plunge basket, and and plunge Arrange them into into boiling boiling oil. oil. Cook Cook until golden. until they they are are crisp crisp and and golden. them Drain, wipe wipe with with a a cloth, cloth, and and sprinkle sprinkle witb with fine fine salt. salt. Drain, Arrange the the croquettes croquettes in in the pyramid or form ofa the form of a pyramid or turban, turban, Arrange garnish with and garnish parsley. with curled curled parsley. and When croquettes croquettes are are served served as as an an entre, entrie, they they are are accomaccomWhen panied by garnish of by a a garnish fresh vegetables of fresh vegetables to to which which butter butter has has panied pur6e of been added, added, or or with with a a pure vegetables. of vegetables. been Croquettes themselves themselves if if made made very very sm small can be be used used as as a a Croquettes ail can garnish for for large large roasts, game or roasts, for for fowl, fowl, game or fish. fish. garnish Recipes for for the the following following croquettes croquettes will will be found under be found under Recipes HORS-D'(EUVRE, HOI Hot hors-d'uvre: hors-d'euyre: beef, beef, brains, brains, cress, cress, HORS-D'UVRE, gras, game, game, lobster, lobster, oyster, vegetables, macaroni, oyster, vegetables, macaroni, foie foie gras, Montrouge, cod, potatoes, printanire, printanidre, various cod, fish, fish, potatoes, various meats, meats, Montrouge, Viennoise, poultry, poultry, et. etg. Viennoise, Apricot croquettes croquettes 1. I. CROQUETTES cnoqurrrrs AUX AUX ABRICOTS ABRrcors -- Cook Cook Apricot (18 oz.) g. (18 apricots in in syrup, oz.) apricots syrup, drain drain dry, dry, and and cut cut them them into into 500 g. (t pint, Bind with pint, scant dice. Bind with 4 dl. dl. (} scant 2 2 cups) cups) Fried Fried custard custord large dice. (see CUST CUSTARD), flavour with and flavour with kirsch. kirsch. Leave Leave to to cool. cool. (see ARD), and (2 oz.) Divide it into g. (2 portions, roll into 50 roll them 50 g. oz.) portions, them in in flour flour and and in in Divide egg and and breadcrumbs. Deep-fry and breadcrumbs. Deep-fry and serve with Apricot serve with Apricot egg (see SAUCE) SAUCE) flavoured flavoured with with kirsch. kirsch. sauce (see Apricot croquettes II. II. CROQUETTES cnoeurrrEs AUX Arrx ABRICOTS ABRrcors -- Cook Cook Apricot halved apricots in in a a vanilla vanilla syrup. well, and syrup. Drain weil, and fill fill each each balved (see pastry cream half with with 1 I tabJespoon Frangipane pastry tablespoon Frangipane crealn (see half flavoured with with kirsch. kirsch. Put Put 1wo halves apricot halves CREAMS), flavoured two apricot (see in a cooked semolina and envelop a coating of of cooked semolina (see envelop in together and SEMOLINA). Dip fry. Serve Dip in in egg breadcrumbs and and fry. Serve egg and and breadcrumbs SEMOLINA). (see SAUCE) with Apricot sauce (see kirsch. with kirsch. SAUCE) flavoured with with Brie cheese cheese croquettes. CROQUETTES cRoeuETTEs DE DE FROMAGE FRoMAGE DE DE BRrE BRIE -Brie (l oz., g. (1 25 g. cup) sifted sifted flour in in a a casserole casserole with oz., li cup) with 25 25 g. g. Put 25 (l oz., (6 tabJerice flour. with 1 I dl. o2.,3 flour. Moisten Moisten with dl. (6 table(1 3 tablespoons) rice j cup) (9 oz.) Brie and g. (9 g. spoons, scant 1 250 g. cup) milk. Add 250 75 g. and 75 spoons, (3 oz., pieces. oz., 6 6 tablespoons) into small cut into tablespoons) butter, butter, both both cut small pieces. (3 grated n o[ cayenne, and a a pinch of a !ittle little grated nutSeason with salt, a utgood heat, stirring until the mixture is a good is thick meg. Cook on a thick enough. Spread it out on a buttered baking sheet and leave to enough. to Cut into rectanguJar rectangular pieces, dip in egg and breadcrumbs, cool. Cut and deep-fry. This creamy mixture is also used to fi fill creamy mixture This Il tartlets or barquettes as a served as a hot hors-d'uvre. hors-d'euyre. Chestnut croquettes croquettes I. CROQUETTES cnoqunrrns DE DE MARRONS MARRoNs Peel the - Peel chestnuts and them in in a and cook cook them a light light syrup syrup flavoured flavoured with vanilla. Sieve. Evaporate their moisture over heat, add add 5 egg yolks (18 oz., g. (2 g. (18 for 500 and 50 yolks and (2 oz., t 2J 50 g. 500 g. o2.,2f, f cup) butter for cups) pur6e. pure. pur6e makes I croquette. Dip in g. (2 oz., f, t cup) of 50 g. of the pure makes 1 egg and breadcrumbs, and deep-fry in boiling oil. Serve with apricot apricot sauce sauce flavoured with kirsch. Chestnut Chestnut croquettes croquettes II. MARRONS II. CROQUETTES cRoeUETTES DE MARRoNs - Crumble 500 g. (18 (? (18 oz.) marrons marrons glacds glacs (see (see CHESNUTS). CHESNUTS). Add 4 dl. (;} pint, (see CREAMS) pint, scant scant 2 cups) cups) French French pasty pastry cream cream (see flavoured with kirsch. kirsch. Leave Leave to to cool into croqcool and and make into uettes. Finish in the same same way as for Apricot Apricot croquettes. Gruyre cheese cheese croquettes. croquettes. cRoeuETTFs CROQUETTES DE Gruyire DE FROMAGE FRoMAGE DE GRUYRE1 cup) sifted flour in a pan with cnuyinr - Mix 100 g. (4 oz., I t cup) rice flour, 3 3 eggs and 2 egg yolks. Moisten 50 g. (2 oz., { eggyolks. Moisten with 5 dl. (scant pint, 2f, 2-!- cups) cups) boiled boiled milk; milk; season season with with a a pinch pinch of salt, a a small pinch of cayenne, and a a little grated nutmeg. Bring to to the the boil. boil. Cook Cook on on a a good good heat heat for nutmeg. for 5 5 minutes, stirring stirring constantly constantly to prevent prevent it from sticking minutes, sticking to the bottom of of the pan. Remove Remove from the heat. bottom oz., 1 cup) grated Gruyere. Gruyre. Spread Add 100 g. (4 oz,l Spread out the mixture on on a a baking baking sheet sheet and and leave leave to to cool. cool. Cut Cut into mixture rectangles. Dip in egg and breadcrumbs and fry in boiling rectangles. oil. oil. This cream cream can can also aJso be be used used to to garnish canapis, canaps, barquettes, barquettes, This bread, or tartlets. tartlets, which are then browned in the oven oyen fried bread. and served served as as hot hot hors-d'uvre. hors-d'auyre. and Mussel croquettes. croquettes. CROQUETTES cRoeuErrEs DE DE MOULES MouLEs - - Cook Cook 22 Musse) (3| pints pints 4t litres (3-!pints) mussels 4| pints) mussels in in white white wine wine with with sliced litres sliced parsley, thyme onions, parsley, thyme and and bay leaf. Drain Drain the bay leaf. the mussels, mussels, take onions, take them out and dry theirshells out of of their shells and dry them them on on aacloth. cloth. Put Put them them themin in pan with saut6 pan with an quantity of an equal equal quantity of diced diced mushrooms mushrooms aa saut which have have been been simmered in butter. butter. simmered in which (see SAUCE) Add Bchamel Bichamel sauce sauce (see SAUCE) which which includes includes the Add the liquor in mussels have in which which the the mussels have been cooked and been cooked and wbich liquor which has has been boiled boiled down. down. Leave Leave to cool. to cool. been Make croquettes, croquettes, dip dip in in egg egg and and breadcrumbs, Make breadcrumbs, and anddeepdeepfry. fry.

Potato croquelles croquettes Potato

(Larousse) (Larousse)

poMMRs DE Potato Potato croquettes. croquettes. CROQUETTES cRoeUETTES DE DE POMMES DE TERRE TERRE -Prepare A TOES). potato mixture (see POT Prepare with with a a Duchess Duchess potato mixture (see POTATOES). To To vary vary the the dish, dish, when when served served as as a a hot hot hors-d'uvre hors-d'uuyre or ot used garnish, add used as as a a gamish, add various various ingredients ingredients to to the the basic basic ducbess preparation, such duchess preparation, as finely finely hashed such as hashed ham, ham, mushrooms, mushrooms, truffies, truffies, thick thick tomato tomato sauce, sauce, chopped chopped onion onion Iightly lightly cooked cooked in in butter, (q.v.), duxelles (q.v.) etc. mirepoix (q.v.), butter, mirepoix duxelles (q.v.) etc. Rice (savoury). CROQUETTES Rice croquettes croquettes (savoury). cnoquerrEs DE DE RIZ nrz -- Prepare Prepare either either with with rice rice cooked cooked in in butter and bound butter and bound with with egg, egg, or or with with cheese cheese risotto. risotto. Make Make the the croquettes croquettes and fry in in smoking-hot and fry smoking-hot fat. parsley and fat. Garnish Garnish with with fried fried parsley and serve serve with with tomato tomato sauce. sauce. Rice (sweet). CROQUETTES Rice croquettes (sweet). cRoer.JETTEs DE DE RIZ Rrz -- These These can can be be served (4 oz., served as as a a sweet g. (4 sweet course. course. Prepare Prepare 100 100 g. oz., i* cup) cup) sweetened (see RICE). sweetened rice rice (see RICE). As As soon as it it is is cold, soon as cold, divide divide into into portions of g. (2 (2 oz.). 50 g. oz.). Make Make the the croquettes croquettes in of 50 in the the shape of shape of apples apples or or pears, dip dip in in egg egg and and breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, and and deep-fry deep-fry in very hot fat. fat. Serve fruit sauce. Serve with a a fruit sauce. Rice (strffed). CROQUETTES Rice croquettes (stuffed). cnoqurrrEs DE DE RIZ Rrz FOURRES rounn6ss -Divide cooked, cooked, sweetened sweetened rice into into small small balls. balls. Put Put them them on on a a floured board, board, slit slit them them slightly, and fill fill with slightly, and with 1 I teaspoon teaspoon fruit marmaJade (q.v.) or with marmalade (q.v.) (see with thick thick French French pastry cream cream (see CREAMS). Close Close the the slit, slit, dip dip the the balls balls in in egg egg and and breadbreadcrumbs, and deep-fry. deep-fry. Rice croquettes old style (Carme's (CarGme's recipe). CROQUETTES cRoeuErrEs DE DE RIZ ntz ,c, LA MANIiRE ANCIENNE Le MANIRE ANcTENNE 'Cook 175 g. (6 (6 oz., 175 g. oz, i* cup) cup) - 'Cook Carolina rice good stock. rice in in good stock. Mix Mix with I .tablespoon with 1 thick -tablespoon tbick Velout (see SAUCE), Velouti sauce (3 tablespoons) sauce (see SAUCE), 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) grated grated Parmesan Parmesan cheese, and and a a !ittle little nutmeg. nutmeg. Divide Divide into into 10 l0 portions, portigns, make hollows in in each, and fill them witb with a a salpicon salpicon of game or fowl combined with velouti sauce with velout sauce which which has has been been boiJed down. Close up the balls, roll in fine grated boiled grated Parmesan and en in in the and th palm of then the palm of the the band hand to to make make the the croquettes croquettes completely round.' Dip in egg egg and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs mixed mixed with with finely grated Parmesan finely Parmesan cheese cheese and and deep-fry. deep-fry. Garnish Garnish with with fried parsley. parsley. fried La Varenne croquettescroquettes - Make Make large, large, thin thin crpes cr4pes (q.v.) with with an unsweetened crpe ver the cr?pe batter. Co Cover the crpes crpes with with a layer of a layer of finely chopped chopped mushrooms mushrooms which finely which have have been cooked in in been cooked

291 291

CROQUIGNOLLES CROQUIGNOLLES
sauce. Roll up, cut and combined with thick tomato sauce. butter and into into slices, slices, dip dip in in egg egg and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and deep-fry. Garnish Garnish with fried fried parsley. parsley. and fill with the chosen mixture mixture (see HOR-D'G,UVRE.,F1ol HOR-D'UVRE, HOI They can filled with hors-d'euyre.) They hors-d'uvre.) can also also be be filled with rice, rice, semolina, duchess potato mixture, macaroni, noodles, nood les, etc.

CROQUIGNOLLES PARISIENNES PARISIENNES (Patisserie) (Ptisserie) - Ingredients.500 (21 oz., cups) flour, o2.,2\ gredients. 500 g. g. (18 oz., oz., 4j 4tcups) flour, 600 600 g. g. (21 2i cups) cups) fine sugar, l0 10 egg whites, flavouring flavouring (vanilla, (vanilla, orange orange or lemon zest,liqueurs). zest, liqueurs). Mix half half the egg whites whites with icing sugar. Add the Method. Mix sifted flour, the rest of of the egg and flavouring, flavouring, and mix well. weil. Press Press through through a a forcing-bag forcing-bag into into various various shapes shapes on on a baking sheet. sheet. Leave Leave to dry out for for a few hours. Bake Bake buttered baking in a moderate oven. oyen. In In various various regions of of France France croquignolles are are slightly different. different. The The best best known known are are those those of of Navarre in in the Basses-Pyr6n6es, Basses-Pyrnes, which are made in the same way as above the following ingredients: ingredients: 500 g. g. (18 (18 oz., 4| 41 cups) cups) but with the sifted flour, 500 500 g. (18 o2.,2f, oz., 2 cups) fine sugar, 7 egg whites, whites, 4 sifted drops lemon essence or powdered vanilla, 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) brandy.
CROUSTADE (Pie, (Pie, pasty) pa st y) - Dishes made with with flaky flaky or CROUSTADE puff puff pastry, filled with ragottts, ragots, salpicons salpicons or other preparations. Croustades are also made with with bread which is is hollowed hollowed Croustades out; out, brushed brushed with with egg egg and deep-fried, then then filled fi lied with various pur6es pures (meat, fowl, fish, shellfish, or vegetable). vegetable). Bread croustade. croustade. cRousrADE CROUSTADE DE pAIN PAIN DE MIE - Made with inches) thick and trim to the stale bread. Cut a slice 5 cm. (2 inches) desired shape. shape. Decorate with knife-cuts knife-cuts in a a pattern. pattern. Cut desired round the top with the point of the knife knife to mark the lid. round fat until golden. Drain, and carefully prise prise off Fry in deep fat the marked marked lid. Iid. Remove Remove the crumb crumb from from the the inside, inside, and line the with with a thin layer of of forcemeat. Leave Leave for a few moments at the open door door of a a warrn warm oven. oyen. Fill the croustade with a the ragot. All Ali the the fillings given for timbales (q.v.) and and vol-auvol-auragoitt. (q.v.) can be be used. vent (q.v.\ vent Little croustades croustades (hot). pErrrEs PETITES cRousrADEs CROUSTADES (culunrs) (CHA UDES) Line tartlet tartlet moulds mou Ids with a a sweet pastry pastry dough dough (shortcrust (shortcrust with with I 1 egg and a little sugar added). Bake the tartlets tartlets blind,

Little Liltle duchess duchess potato potato croustades: how to 10 empty emply them using the Ihe handle of a small sma!! spoon using ofa

Little duchess duchess potato croustades.

pErrrEs PETITES cRousrADEs CROUSTADES

EN

poMMEs POMMES DE TERRE TERRE DUcHESSE DUCHESSE - Spread out the Duchess Duchess potato mixture mixture (see (see POTATOES) POT ATOES) in a thick, even layer on a baking baking

sheet, and leave to cool. cool. Cut Cut into croustades with a a pastrycutter, dip in egg and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and finish in the same same way as Lillie noodle croustades (see below). as for Little Little Little noodle noodle croustades croustades (Car6me's (Carme's recipe). recipe). pErrrES PETITES cRousrADEs CROUSTADES DE NourLLEs NOUILLES -'Prepare - 'Prepare a a noodle paste with with 12 egg yolks (see NOODLE). NOODLE). Roll Roll out out the paste and cut into narrow strips. Boil for a few minutes in salted salted water. Drain the noodles noodles and saut6 saut them in 100 100 g. (4 oz., oz., i c.rp) cup) butter butter and a little httle salt. Pour them into a large saut6 saut pan and spread them out to a depth of of 6 cm. (2] (2! inches). 'When 'When they they are are cold, cold, turn turn them them onto onto a a slab slab and and cut croustades croustades with a pastry-cutter. pastry-cutter. Mark lids lids with with a smaller-size smaller-size pastry-cutter, pastry-cutter, and fry in deep deep fat. Drain, remove remove the lids and remove the centres, centres, leaving only a a thin thin casing. casing. Fill with a salpicon.' salpicon.' Little rice croustades. pETrrEs PETITES cRousrADFs CROUSTADES DE Rrz RIZ - Made with with rice rice cooked cooked in stock, stock, left to cool, cool, and cut cut into into shapes shapes with a pastry-cutter, pastry-cutter, in the same same way as Little Lillie noodle croustades. Little Little semolina semolina croustades. croustades. prrrrns PETITES cRousrADEs CROUSTADES DE DE sESEMoULEMOULE - The The same same as Little Lill le noodle croustades, using using semolina semohna cooked in stock. When quite cold, the semolina semolina can be combined with egg yolks. Little vermicelli vermicelli croustades. croustades. pETrrEs PETITES cRousrADEs CROUSTADES DE Little VERMICELLE VERMICELLE - The The same same as as Little Lillie noodle noodle croustades, using vermicelli vermicelli cooked in stock or plain plain water. wa ter.

Croustade Croustade made made from from a a bread bread roll roll

CROOTES CROTES - Different preparations preparations are designated designated under this this name, name, some sorne made made of of bread, some sorne of brioche dough or other types types of of bread dough. They are used used either with soups other hors-d'uvre. or as hors-d'uuvre.
Crotes made made of of bread bread and served as a sarnish garnish are are usuallv usually Crofftes crotons. called cro0tons. CROTES FOR SOUP. cRoOTEs CROTES A poucr POTAGECROOTES Crofftes Crotes for croiite crote au pot pot - Divide Oivide a a French loaf Qfl,fite) (flte) into into S-crn. 5-cm. (2 inch) inch) slices, slices, cut each each in half half lengthwise, Iengthwise, remove remove the soft part, part, and dry the crusts crusts in a slow slow oven. oyen. the

Alternatively, sprinkle sprinkle them with the fat from the the pot-aupot-auand bake feu aDd bake them them in in the the oven oyen until golden. fea

Hollowed-out Joaf of bread for for makine making a a croustade croustade Hol!owed-out loafofbread

Diablotins. cRoOrEs CROTES Drrgs DITES DrABLorrNs DIABLOTINS - Cut Cut a French loaf loaf Diablotins. into slices slices 6 6 to to 8 8 mm. mm. (* (j inch) inch) thick. thick. Cover Coyer with with thick thick Bdchamel Bchamel into sauce (see SAUCE) to to which which grated cheese seasoned with a a little cayenne has has been been added. added. Sprinkle with with cheese cheese and in the oven. oyen. brown in crotes. cRo0rEs CROTES FARcTES FARClES - Cut a French loaf loaf into Stuffed croiites.
292

CROOTES CROTES

Preparation ofcrottes Preparation of crotes (Inroussel (Larousse)

(1+ inches) cm. (I~ slices 4 cm. incbes) thick. thick. Take out three-quarters three-guarters of the the part, and soft part, and dry dry the crusts in soft the crusts in the oven. Stuff them with the oven. chopped or sieved. sieved vegetables. Sprinkle with grated cheese, pour over them a little httle melted butter butter and brown in the the oven. Serve as an accompaniment to soup.

CROOTES FOR FOR HORS-D'UVRE HORS-D'(EUVRE or CROTES OT SMALL SMALL ENpouR HORS-D'uvRE pETrrES E:-.ITRES TREES. CROTES cno0rns POUR TRES. HoRS-D'c,uvRE OU ou PETITES nNrn6ns into 2~-cm. 2t-cm. Small croustades croustades made with stale cut into bread, cut Small made with stale bread, (l-inch) thick slices. Press a small pastry-cutter (I-inch) pastry-cutter half-way half-way into the slices to mark the lids. portions, fill. Fry the crotes, crofites, drain, remove rem ove the incised portions, fil!. grated cheese. CROTES FRoMAGE GRATIcRo0rES AU Crotes AU FROMAGE Crottes with grated (*-inch) slices from a stale loaf loaf and trim into l'rE Nsr - Cut 2-cm. (l-inch) until they are golden. oval oval shapes. Fry in butter untiJ sauce,boil bdchamel sauce, Add grated cheese and thick cream to bchamel boil a thin and pour over the crotes. cro0tes. Put a slice of down, thin slice down, sieve, sieve, and over, and and Gruydre on crotte, pour sorne some melted butter over, Gruyre on each each crote, a hot oven. brown in a cHAMpIcNoNS AUx CHAMPIGNONS Crotes with mushrooms. mushrooms. CROTES cRotTEs AUX Cro0tes with are used used as as a a stuffing for Mushrooms prepared d la la crme crime are Mushrooms (q.v.) -brioche crotes galelle (g.v.) cro0tes in tbe form of of a galette the fonn - a round open puff pastry. is hollowed The crote crotte is out, tart made with hollowed out with puff tart made flastry. The and filJed filled with Mushrooms it buttered, browned in in the oven, and Mushrooms ~ buttered. (see MUSHROOMS). la In crme crime (see MUSHROOMS). The crotes cro0tes are served hot. la Nantua Fry small rectangles of of bread bread in Crotes Crofttes ir la small rectangles - Fry Bichamel sauce and cover with Bchamel sauce (see SAUCE) combutter, and Cr ayfish buller but t er (see BUTTER). Add peeled bined bined with a little Crayfish which more and cover with a a cream cream sauce sauce to which crayfish tails, tails, and has been added. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with fine breadcrayfish been added. fine breadcrayfish butter has quickly melted butter, and and brown guickly crumbs, pour over a little melted ~rumbs, a very hot oven. the crayin a can be In be substituted for the oven. Shrimps can fish. with Crotes reine th a pur6e pure Crottes of fried bread wi ir la reine - Cover slices of cooked Sprinkle with fine of fowl cooked fine breadcrumbs, crime. Sprinkle d la crme. and brown in a a hot oven. a little melted pour over a melted butter, and reine,but as Crotes Crofttes d la reine, Crotes but Saint-Hubert - The same as Cro0tes Saint-Hubertpur6e of fowl with a a game pur6e replace the pure pure which has been combined with concentrated game stock. gratinees with Crofites gratines with trufHes. truffies. CROTES cRoOrEs GRATINES Crotes cRarrNErs AUX tux TRUFFES TRUFFES - Cut cleaned, peeled truffies in in thick slices, season pepper and dip in melted slices, and pepper melted butter. Set these slices, with salt and have been been lightly overlapping, on on slices slices of of bread overlap~ing, bread that that have cooked In in butter. and pour cooked butter. SprinkJe Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese and a few drops of over a of melted butter. Brown in a very hot oven. Cro0tes with trufres. AUx TRUFFES TRUFFES -cRo0res AUX Made like Crotes truffles. CROTES - Made Crotttes with mushrooms mushroons using truffies prepared Crotes prepared d la crme. crime.

FOR MIXED CROOTES FOR cno0tTs PoUR CROTES MIXED ENTREES. ENTRES. CROTES POUR eNrRErs MIxrEs are made made of pastry or puff pastry ENTRES MIXTES - These are left-overs, in way as as for a a pastry case. case. Cook the in the the same same way preparation indicated cases blind, with the in the cases blind, and indicated in and fill fill with the preparation recipe.
pouR ENTREMETSENTREMETs CROTES cnoorBs POUR CROOTES FOR DESSERTS. CROTES 293 293

(] inch) Crottes dores dor6es Crotes 1 cm. ct - Cut stale brioche into slices I cold thick. Soak the slices Id sweetened milk flavoured with slices in co vanilla, then in clarified vanilJa, then in slightly sweetened egg, egg, and cook in (See below, butter. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with vanilJa vanilla sugar. butter. sugar. (See below, Golden crotes.) croittes.) Fruit crotes. crofftes. CROTES AI-rx FRUITs cno0rrs AUX Cut a a stale Fruit FRUITS stale savarin - Cut (q.v.) into ({-inch) slices, slices, place on a a baking (g.~.) into. }-cm. place on baking sheet, ]-cm. Cl-inch) glaze in the oven. and glaze sprinkle wlth with fine sugar, spnnkle sugar, and of white bread into a conical shape, fry it, and Cut a piece ofwhite place it a dish. savarrn slices place it in in the the centre centre of a Arrange the dish. Arrange the savarin slices alternating them with pineapple slices which round it, alternating which have been cooked in been in syrup. quartered pear and apple slices arrange slices in syrup Cook guartered syrup and arrange round the them the cone. cone. Fill this border with with a them round FiJI the inside of this mixture fruits which which have of fruits been cooked syrup and mix.ture of have been cooked in in syrup drained. Decorate with with preserved cherries and and lozenges of draIned. preserved cherries quartered preserved preserved apricots, angelica, guartered apricots, oranges oranges preserved angelica, in brandy, and halved halved almonds. almonds. Stick a skewer (attelet) in brandy, and Stick a decorated with preserved fruits into the central cone. decorated Heat i~ in a a very moderate oven, and when oven, and when ready Heat ready to to serve, (see SAUCE) cover wlth with Apricot sauce (see SAUCE) flavoured flavoured with cover Apricot sauce kirsch. Serve with more of the the sauce. sauce. Other fruits cooked in syrup may m?y be used. pnns crofttes. PAINS A LA Golden crotes. LA ROMAINE RoMATNE DITS Drrs AUSSI Aussr CROTES Golden cRoOrEs (9 oz.) g. (9 DORES - Ingredients. oonfrs Ingredients. 250 250 g. oz.) stale stale brioche, brioche, -j I litre (a oz.,} pint,2l g. (4 125 g. (scant piot, 2~ cups) milk, milk, 100 g. oz., I cup) butter, -125 (4 o2.,1 cop) fine sugar, ~ vanilla bean, 2 eggs. (~oz., ~ cup) I vanilla Method. Cut the brioche into thick slices and soak them in which has has been milk which the sugar been boiled with the sugar and and vanilla and left to cool. Dip the a time, in in the the eggs, which the slices, slices, one at a have a little fine been beaten with with a fine sugar, and fry in butter. have been fry in sugar, and When are golden, drain sides are drain the slices and and sprinkle When both both sides the slices with the rest of of the sugar. Cro0tes with cno0rts AU lu truroins Crotes with Madeira. Madeira. CROTES MADRE Made of - Made savarin and and pineapple, like like Fruit slices of savarin Fruit crotes. croittes. Fill Fill the (q.v.) of fruits cooked en a salpicon salpicon (g.v.) m compote to centre with a have been sultanas and and raisins that which which have been added added currants, sultanas lukewarm water. in lukewarm have been washed and and left left to to swell in (see SAUCE) Apricot sauce sauce (see with Apricot SAUCE) Cover the crote Cover the cro0te with of this sauce. sauce, flavoured with Madeira. Madeira. Serve with a little more more ofthis into l-cm. Montrnorency Cut a a stale Crotes - Cut brioche into Crofttes Montmorency stale brioche (|-inch) thick half moons. and shape them into ct-inch) into half moons. slices, and shape them thick slices, Sprinkle baking sheet. Sprinkle with sugar and glaze in the oven on a baking of Frangipane Cover each slice with a thin layer of Frangipane pastry cream and arrange arrange (see CREAMS) flavoured with cherry brandy, and a crown, crown, setting setting'them in the them the form fonn of a them very them on on a a dish dish in close together. cherries Fill FiJI the centre of the crown with a dome of stoned cherries and drained. a vanilla vanilla syrup syrup and which have been been cooked cooked in in a which have with preserved cherries, cherries, Decorate the crown with the border of the the crown almonds. Cover Cover with with redangelica lozenges lozenges and and halved angelica halved almonds. currantjelly currant jelly laced with cherry brandy, and serve with a little of this sauce. Crotes la normande i lrr Cro0tes - Glaze slices of stale brioche with

CROOTON CROTON
as for sugar, cover coyer with a a thick thick puree pure of apple apple prepared as for Apple Apple charlotte, (see (see CHARLOTTE) and and finish finish with with thick cream. Arrange on a dish in the shape of a crown. crown. Fill Fill the centre centre with quartered apples apples cooked in syrup flavoured f1avoured with vanilla, flavoured vanilla, and cover coyer with Apple sauce sauce (see SAUCE) f1avoured with with Calvados. Serve Serve with this sauce. sauce.

CRU a plant or a has grown. This a fruit has This - The soil in which a applies particularly to vines. porridge made CRUCHADE A kind kind of porridge made with with maize CRUCHADE maize ftour flour -A great similarity to and milk It has has a or water. a great and milk or water. It to miliasse miliasse or millat, made in the south-west and also also to polenta, millat south-west of France; and (See MILlASSE.) made in the south-east in Italy. (See and in made'in south-east and MILIASSE.)

CROOTON CROCrTON - End of of a long loaf. loar. Also diced bread bread fried in butter, butter, servpd serv:ed as an accompaniment accompaniment to soup. soup. Bread Bread croiitons. crotons. cRo0roNs CROTONS EN pAIN PAIN DE MIE - Slices Slices cut from a a stale white white loaf loaf which are fried in butter, butter, grilled, or dried in in the the oven. oyen. Except Except for large large cro0tons crotons used used under under game, cro0ton-supports croton-supports are not considered edible. Their only r6le rle is is to to support large large hot or cold joints joints in order to be able to display the the various various garnishes gamishes round round them. them. All Ali excessive excessive trimmings trimmings should be be avoided in these arrangements, which should be be simple in in order order to to be be effective. effective.

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Food eaten raw. Man Man is CRUDITES eaten raw. is the CRUDITS - Food the only only living creature to foods. Children, however, have to use use cooked foods. have an Children, however, innate for unripe innate taste taste for for raw raw vegetables and and even even for unripe fruit, fruit, part of which indicates that that raw food food should be be an essential part man's diet. die!. The indigestibility of crudits The is caused cruditds is caused by by the the way way they they grated, are are sometimes sometimes presented; served served finely finely chopped chopped or or grated, weil, they are perfectly digestible. and chewed well, pleasant to eat raw, or are only really Sorne foods are not pleasant Some when they they are are cooked. edible when instance, nearly edible cooked. Meat, Meat, for for instance, needs to to be be masked masked in in various ways always needs in order ways in order to to be people even eaten raw, and is distasteful to to many people even then. then. On never have the a cooked oyster can flavour the other hand, a can never the f1avour of an uncooked one, and this holds holds good for salads of salads and fruit. Gastronomes can see another advantage advantage in crudits. cruditis. Since their food food value value is is generally minimal, they they are their are useful useful for allaying the the first first pangs pangs of of hunger hunger without without spoiling allaying spoiling the appreciation of the remainder remainder of the meal; on the contrary, appreciation contrary, they rather rather enhance the main meal. Thus the perils of overgood food so often often menace those those who who love good food are eating that so avoided.
(V.S. Castor set). rvrfNacinn CRUET STAND (U.S. set). MNAGRE Table-set - Table-set of bottles and and jars of of glass, porcelain or metal, met al, set consisting of base. in a base. bread which which has been been baked baked hard hard in the oyen bread oven and is intended CRUSH. EcusrR CRASER - To flatten f1atten and break aromatic aromatic seeds, CRUSH. seeds. or

ffire

@
Bread cro0tons crotons Bread

for breadcrumbs.
CRUSTACS - Animals, Animais, usually usually aquatic, CRUSTACEANS. cnusucfs with a a hard, hard, shelly shelly crust crust and and jointed jointed extremities. extremities. Some Sorne with

species are used used in cooking, cooking, e.g. crabs, crayfish, lobsters, lobsters, etc. species Crotons for for garnishes. garnishes. cRo0roNs CROTONS pouR POUR cARNrruREs GARNITURES Crottons Crotons made made of ofwhite bread cut cut in in different different ways, ways, often often in in Cro0tons white bread the form form ofhearts. of hearts. They They are are cooked cooked in in oil or or butter butter and are are the used to to garnish gamish various various dishes dishes which which are are presented presented in in sauce, sauce, used as blanquette blanquette de de veau, veau, civet, civet, chicken chicken fricassie, fricasse, chicken chicken su ch as such Crotons used used to to garnish garnish salmis salmis are are usually usually Marengo, salmis. salmis. Crofitons Marengo, gratinforcemeat (see FORCEMEAT). FORCEMEAT). CrotCrocovered with with ri covered gratinforcemeat (see tons cut cut in in the the form form of ofdents dents de de loup loup (wolves'teeth) (wolves' teeth) are are used used to to tons garnish garnish spinach spinach and and other other vegetable vegetable dishes. dishes. Those Those cut in in shapes are are used used for for fish fish prepared prepared d la la normande. normande. lozenge shapes lozenge Crofitons for for scrambled scrambled eggs eggs or or omeleffes. omelettes. cnoOrous CROTONS poun POUR Crottons OEUFS BRounr.Es BROUILLS ou OU oMELETTE OMELETTE - These These are are made made of of diced diced oEurs white bread bread fried fried in in butter butter and and added added to to scrambled scrambled egg egg or or white omelettes. omelettes. CROW. consr,{u-The CORBEAU - The meat meat of ofthis bird, except except when when young, young, CROW. this bird, is tough tough and and fibrous. fibrous. Nevertheless, Nevertheless, in in many many forest forest regions regions is where crows crows abound, abound, they they are are used used to to make make a a poor poor soup. soup. where Cuniset-Carnot, in in his his Vie Vie aux aux champs, champs, gives gives a a humorous humorous Cuniset-Carnot, recipe for for cooking cooking a a crow. crow. 'Make 'Make a a good good pot-au-feu. pot-au-feu. On On the the recipe Jid of of the the pot pot put put a a plucked plucked crow. crow. After After 5 5 or or 6 6 reversed lid reversed hours of of gentle gentle cooking, cooking, throw throw the the crow crow on on the the fire fire and and hours enjoy the the pot-au-feu.' pot-au-feu.' enjoy CROWN. couRoNNE COURONNE - Method Method of of dressing dressing a a dish dish in in the the CROWN. fonn of of a a crown crown or or ring. ring. Brioche Brioche en en couronne couronne is is a a type type of of form dough-cake made made in in this this shape. shape. dough-cake CROWN-PIGEON (Squab). (Squab). couRA GOURA - This is cooked cooked in in the the CROWN-PIGEON - This is sarne way way as as the the common corn mon pigeon, pigeon, or or squab. squab. same 294 294
-

For the various various dishes made with these different shellfish For shellfish see see recipes under their names. recipes SheJlfish have a firm, close-grained close-grained flesh ftesh and an agreeable agreeable Shellfish taste, but but are not easy to digest. digest. They have a a reputation as as taste, very strong condiments aphrodisiacs, no doubt due to the very which they they are often flavoured. f1avoured. with which

A crustacan: cruslacean: crab crab A

CUCUMBER. coNconnns CONCOMBRE - Genus of of plants plants belonging belonging to CUCUMBER. the gourd gourd family, family, with with large large elongated elongated fruits. fruits. Cucumbers the originated in in the the north-west north-west of of India, where where they they have have been been originated cultivated in Hindustan Hindustan for three three thousand thousand years. They also cultivated grow in in a a wild wild state. state. There are are a a large number number of of species, species, grow white or or green, green, with with smooth smooth or or rough rough skin, skin, early early or or late laIe white

CULINARY METHODS METHODS CULINARY

fruiting. They are watery and little nutritive are very very watery and contain contain !ittle value. Cucumbers U',", UHI L''"'' 0 are eaten raw in sa lads and are sometimes salads sometimes cooked. When they are are to to be cooked the rather bitter bitter juice should be removed by salting and pressing before before se2lsolnmg, seasoning. ___ :__ andC, VitaminsA it is indigestible, Cucumber contains ,r:,,_~ and C, but Itlsmdllge:stIlble, digestions. and should only be eaten by those with good digestions. in butter. butter. CONCOMBRES coNcoMBREs AU AU BEURRE BEURRE Peel the Cucumbers in - Peel cucumbers, eut cut into pieces, blanch and drain. drain. Season, cucumbers, Season, and a buttered saut6 cook them slowly in a saut pan with the lid on. A LA Cucumberc ir la crme. crCme. CONCOMBRES coNcoMBREs n CRME cniw -- Prepare Prepare Cucumbers as for for Cucumbers in butter. When the cucumbers as When they are in butter. TnrpP'_I'lIl':l,rTprc three-quarters cooked coyer cover with with boiling cream, cream, and and finish cooking. This This dish also be prepared by moistening the dish can can also (see SAUCE). a Cream cucumbers with a Crearn sauce (see SAUCE). cucUlmb'ers (hors-d'auwe). CONCOMBRES i la dijonnaise dijonnaise (hors-d'uvre). coNcoMBREs Cucumbers LA DlJONNAISE DIJoNNATsE into slices, LA slices, then - Cut two green cucumbers into cut the slices into quarters. Boil for 2 minutes in salted water vinegar have to which a few drops ofwine have been added. Drain, of wine vinegar a colander under a a cold cold tap, drain again, again, then put them in a for 12 2 tablespoons simmer for 12 minutes minutes in a casserole with with 2 simmer in a (3 tablespoons) olive pinch of I tablespoon vinegar, a a pinch olive oil, oil, 1 (3 salt and and a a pinch of paprika. Before serving serving add 2 teaspoons salt teaspoons Dijon mustard and and mix weil. well. pARgratin. CONCOMBRES AU PARCucumbers au au gratin. coNcoMBREs GRATINS cn,qrnss AU Cucumbers MESAN lightly, and MESAN into slices, blanch lightly, the cucumbers into - Cut the in butter. Put the a buttered gratin dish dish cook them in slices in a the slices grated Parmesan, sprinkled with Parmesan, sprinkle sprinkle with more sprinkled with grated Parmesan, pour over sorne and brown in the some melted butter, Parmesan, butter, and oyen. oven. (hors-d'euwe). CONCOMBRES i ]a A LA la grecque (hors-d'uvre). eoNcoMBREs Cucumbers a large cucumber and and cook cook in in a a courtcREceLJE GRECQUE - Quarter a bouillon made l| cups) cups) water, water, 1 I dl. 3 dl. (+ pint, with 3 dl. (6 made with pint, l} bouillon tablespoons, scant -t lemon, a bouquet of of Iemon, the juice of tablespoons, * cup) oil, the pinch of coriander, celery, fennel, fennel, thyme, and a a good pinch coriander, salt celery, thyme, and pepper. and pepper. Boil for 8 minutes. Drain Drain the cucumbers, cucumbers. boil boil down down the Boil liquor in in which which they have been half, cool, cool, and liquor they have been cooked to to half, pour it over the cucumbers. cucumbers. Keep in a a cool place and and serve cold. jus. CONCOMBRES coNcoMBREs AU AU JUS Prepare in in the Cucumbers au JUs au jus. - Prepare few tablespoons tablespoons as Cucumbers in butter, adding a few same way as concentrated veal stock when cooked. cooked. concentrated Prepare in the MoRNAy Cucumbers Mornay. Mornay. CONCOMBRES NA Y coNcoMBREs MOR - Prepare cucumber pieces in same way as Cucumbers in butter. Put the cucumber a gratin dish dish lined with Mornay a Mornay sauce lined with sauce (see SAUCE). Pour over them, sprinkle with grated cheese, pour over more sauce over oven. a little butter, and brown in the oyen. puRfE DE pur6e. PURE Peel two two large DE CONCOMBRES coNcoMBREs Cucumber Cucumber pure. - Peel lengthways and remove remove the seeds. Cut cucumbers, them lengthways cucumbers, split them into in butter. into slices and and simmer in butter. Add half their quantity of with consomm consomm6 or Moisten with potatoes, cut into quarters. Moisten cut into cucumbers and Sieve the the cucumbers drain. Sieve water, until soft, drain. water, boil boil until pur6e into a pan over low heat. Add a potatoes, and put this pure mixture few teaspoons butter butter and thick cream, and work the mixture with a wooden spoon until it is smooth. Peel the coNcoMBREs the cuCucumber DE CONCOMBRF--S slrnDr DE Cucumber salad. SALADE - Peel lengthwise, remove the seeds, and cumbers, halflengthwise, cumbers, split them in half a cloth, cloth, sprinkle sprinkle on a slice flesh finely. finely. Spread the slices on slice the flesh for 30 minutes. Drain, season season with salt, with with salt and and leave for pepper, vinegar, oil and chopped chopped chervil. chervil. pepper, wth vinaigrette sauce The The cucumbers cucumbers can can be be seasoned seasoned with without first being salted. cucumbers coNcoMBREs FARcIs Peel cucumbers Stuffed cucumbers. CONCOMBRES FARCIS - Peel cm. (2 inches) thick. Boil in salted water and cut into slices 5 cm. of each slice. for 5 minutes. Drain, and scoop a hollow out of (q.v.) with (3 tablespoons) duxelles duxelles (q.v.) Mix 2. Mix 2. tablespoons (3 (9 oz.) g. (9 pork forcemeat. Add I tablespoon 250 g. 250 Add 1 oz.) veal veal or or pork (2 oz., parsley, 50 g. (2 ctrp'S chopped chopped onion which 50 g. oz, t chopped parsley, I cup)
'V ,A,

has in butter and cooled. Fil1 Fill the scooped-out has been cooked in cucumbers with the stuffing. cucumbers Line the bottom of a saut saut6 pan with bacon rinds, slices of and a bouquet garni (q.v.). Set the cucu cucumcarrots and onion and mbers on this foundation and add enough slightly salted stock cucumbers. Bring to to reach reach two-thirds up the sides sides of the cucumbers. cucumbers. coyer cover the the boil. Put a buttered sheet sheet over the cucumbers, oven for 35 minutes. pan, and cook slowly in the oyen cooking liquor and and boil down down rapidly to Strain the cooking to 2 dl. (| pint, pint, scant cup). Thicken Thicken slightly with a a brown sauce (t sauce or (see BUTTER), pour over Kneaded butter with Kneaded butter (see and pour with BUTTER), and over the cucumbers when serving. cucumbers serving. expression once used used to indicate CUIRE VERT - Colourful expression to what degree degree certain meats should be cooked to keep them (tris saignantes). saignantes). Nowadays the expression caire bleu. rare (trs expressi on is cuire

CUISINE CUISINE - See COOKING. CUISINE MINCEUR CUISINE MINCEUR - A new method of French cooking. Based on principles, it on the classic French the classic French principles, Based it attempts attempts to maintain main tain the the characteristic subtle ftavors flavors without m(;]u1djrlg including the highly caloric ingredients such as butter, cream, cream, oil, and limited quantities. The success of this starches except in very limited ofcontroversy. venture is a subject of controversy. CUISSON has several meanings term has Cl.JISSON meanings in French. - This term ofany offood. 1. The cooking of any kind of food. Cooking 2. Coo king time. 3. Liquid Liquid IJsed of certain certain foodstuffs foodstuffs for used in the cooking cooking of 3. in the example, cuisson calves'heads. cuisson of mushrooms, cuisson caisson of calves' example, heads. In clear soup. this context the word means stock or c1ear
See HAUNCH. CUISSOT - See

anr CULINAIRE cULINATRE CULINARY ART. ART 'Cookery is an old art,' -'Cookery said the marquis de Cussy. 'It goes back to Adam.' closely bound with the history of man. The culinary art is c10sely asks: 'Does not in fact fact embrace Brillat-Savarin asks: not this this art in embrace aIl all branches of human not the art of branches of human activity? activity? Is Is not the art of feeding oneself one of the primordial needs of man?' oneself For a short short history ofcookery see the entry history ofcookery entry on COOKING. COOKING.
cULINAIRES CULINARY MTHODES CULlNAIRES Ail METHODS. ufrsoDEs CULINARY METHODS. - All compliculinary operations, from the simplest to to the most compliIt is rules. It cated, be carried out according to to precise rules. cated, must be advisable to adhere scrupulously to these principles in order preparation of simple as as well well as in the to to achieve achieve success the preparation success in complex dishes. different methods The methods of The culinary culinary rules rules governing the the different order. cooking cooking foodstuffs are listed below in alphabetical arder. cooking DEs VIANDES Method of of cooking Braising meat. BRAISAGE DES - Method but it mutton, but meat chiefly used for red meats meats such as beef and mutton, meatchiefty beefand used for white meats such as lamb and veal. also be used veal. By can also slightly modifying the procedure it can also be used slightly used for pork and venison. and Large Large poultry is also braised, braised, and the method may be used although, in fact, fish is stewed with a very little for large fish although, liquid rather than braised in the strict sense of the word. interlarded before before being braised; that Red meat should be interlarded is, thick lardoons, seasoned with spices, thick lardoons, seasoned with spices, moistened with is, parsley are threaded with chopped brandy and sprinkled with threaded into chopped parsley it with a larding needle. Large cuts of meat and venison are steeped steeped in a marinade (q.v.) for a a time before braising and and then moistened with a (q.v.) stockpot or braising stock prepared in advance, or from the stockpot even with with water. red wine, marinade and even White or the marinade wine. the water. White or red aromatic vegetables of the marinade should be added to the aromatic stock. Instructions for braising large cu meat are given under cuts of mea Instructions ts of tare BEEF. 295 295

CULINARY CULINARY METHODS METHODS

Garnishes Garnishes for for braised meat. Meat is usually usually braised d /a la bourgeoise, bourgeoise, with with carrots carrots and onions added towards towards the end of cooking. Braised cuts cuts can can also also be be served served with with vegetables vegetables braised braised in in stock, stock, stuffed vegetables, vegetables, macaroni macaroni prepared in different different ways, risotto, etc. Braising Braising white white meat. meat. Strictly speaking, speaking, cuts cuts of of white meat, meat. veal veal in in particular, particular, should be be pot pot roasted roasted rather rather than braised. braised. However, However, cuts cuts of of white white meat meat can be be braised braised in the the same same way as as red red meat, meat, but but using using very very little little stock. stock. (See (See below Pol Pot

meat meat is is laid upon upon it or or under under it. il. The food to be be grilled must be basted basted with clarified c1arified butter, oil or fat, and and seasoned. seasoned. Meat should be be gently flattened fiattened and trimmed trimmed before before cooking. cooking. Fish should be be scored with a knife, knife. well weil coated coated with butter and oil, oil, and seasoned. seasoned. Fish Fish which which is rather rather dry has has a tendency tendency

roasting.) Braisi4g Braising large large poultry. poultry. BRAISAGE BRAISAGE DEs DES cRossEs GROSSES VoLAILLES VOLAILLES Large Large poultry poul try is is usually usually pot pot roasted roasted rather ra ther than braised. braised. Use Use very very little little stock stock in in cooking. cooking. Ctarifyiry Oarifying and enrichilry enriching soups, soups, stocks stocks and and jellies. jellies. cLARIFTCLARIFIcATroN CA TION DES DES BourLLoNS, BOUILLONS, FoNDS FONDS Er ET crrfss GELES - The The purpose purpose of of this operation operation is is to to make make soups, soups, stocks stocks and and jellies jellies clearer c1earer and tastier. tastier. This This applies applies to to sweet sweet jellies jellies as as well well as as to fish fish and meat meat stocks. stocks. After After clarification, clarification, and enriching enriching with with chopped lean lean beef beef and egg egg white, white, the the soup soup is is known known as consomm6. consomm. Allow Allow 250 250 to to 350 350 g. g. (9 to to 12 12 oz.) oz.) chopped lean lean beef beef to to every every litre litre (scant (scant quart, quart, generous generous quart) quart) stock stock to to ensure ensure adequate adequate clarification. clarification. For For jelly jelly stocks, stocks, which are are very very concentrated concentrated in in themselves, themselves, 100 100 to 150 150 g. g. (4 (4 to to 5 oz.) oz.) per per litre litre (scant quart, quart, generous generous quart) quart) is is required. required. Where Where appropriate appropriate chopped chopped poultry poultry may may be be used used instead instead of of chopped chopped beef. beef. A A small small quantity quantity of of egg egg white white and and finely finely diced diced vegetables vegetables should should be be used. used. When When clarifying c1arifying sweet sweet jellies jellies (made (made with with fruit fruit and and wine wine or or liqueur) liqueur) egg egg white white only only is is used. used. Clarified Clarified consomm6 consomm and and jellies jellies of of various various kinds kinds must must be be strained strained after after boiling. boiling. Wet Wet and and wring wring out out a a cloth cloth of of closely c10sely woven woven material. material. Fix Fix it to to the the four four legs legs of of an an upturned upturned stool. stool. Under U nder this this cloth cloth place place a a bowl bowl large large enough enough to to take take all ail of of the the stock. stock. Skim Skim off off the the fat, fat, then then pour pour the the stock stock into into this this imimprovised strainer. For For smaller smaller amounts, amounts, lay lay the the cloth c10th on on top top provised strainer. of of a a bowl bowl and and lift lift up up the the corners. corners. Deepfrying. Deep-frying. FRrruRE FRITURE -. Method Method of of cooking cooking used used a a great great deal deal in in household household kitchens. kitchens. Fried Fried foods, foods, well well prepared, prepared, are are much much prized prized by by gastronomes. gastronomes. (See (See DEEP-FRYING.) DEEP-FRYING.) GratinGratin - Name Name given given to to dishes dishes which, which, after after being being subjected subjected to to intense intense heat heat in in the the oven oyen or or under under the the grill, grill, acquire acquire a a crisp, crisp, golden-brown golden-brown crust. crust. To To assist assist in in the the formation formation of of this this crust, crust, sprinkle sprinkle the the food food either either with with fresh fresh or or lightly lightly toasted toasted breadbreadcrumbs crumbs or or with with grated grated cheese, cheese, preferably preferably Parmesan, Parmesan, and and pour pour on on melted melted butter. butter. Gratins Gratins can can be be made made with with either either raw raw or or cooked cooked food. food. The The most most common common raw raw gratins gratins are are made made of of fish fish covered covered with with Duxelles Duxel/es sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE.) SAUCE.) A A recipe recipe for for cooking cooking raw raw vegetables vegetables au au gratin gratin is is given given under under Potatoes Potatoes d la la dauphinoise dauphinoise (see (see POTATOES). POT ATOES). Fish Fish prepared prepared with with a a white white gratin gratin sauce sauce are poachd poached in in concentrated concentrated fish fish stock, stock, drained, drained, covered covered with with white white sauce, sauce, sprinkled sprinkled with with cheese chee se or or breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and browned browned quickly quickly in When browning browning a a gratin gratin the the dish dish should should be be set set on on in the the oven. oyen. When a a wire wire tray tray separating separating it it from from the the oven oyen shelf, shelf, or or in in a a dish dish halfhalffull full of of hot hot water. water. This This prevents prevents the the fats fats from from separating separating and and the the sauce sauce from from spoiling. spoiling. Grilling Grj]]ing (U.S. (V.S. broiling). broiling). cnnrlor GRILLADE - Grilling, GriUing, like like roasting, roasting, is is a a method method of ofcooking cooking by by intense intense heat, heat, the the nourishing nourishing juices juices being being sealed sealed into into the the meat meat by by the the crust crust formed formed on on the the surface. surface. The The fuel fuel traditionally traditionally used used for for grilling grilling in in France France is is small small charcoal charcoal (known (known as as braise'). braise). The The charcoal, charcoal, when when thoroughly thoroughly alight, alight, is is spread spread out out to to form form a a bed bed in in a a grille grille pan pan with with a a wellwellregulated regulated draught. draught. This This bed bed of of charcoal charcoal varies varies in in depth depth according according to to the the size size and and kind kind of of meat meat to to be be grilled. grilled. NowaNowadays days there there are are also also gas gas and and electric electric grills, grills, both both of of which which are are very very good good and and extremely extremely practical. practical. The Thegrill grill must must be be scrupulously scrupulously clean, c1ean, and and heated heated before before the the
296 296

to to stick stick to to the the bars bars of the the grill, grill, and and should should therefore therefore be floured fioured before before being being coated with butter butter or oil. This will form a a covering covering which which will will enable enable the the fish fish to to cook cook without without becoming becoming too dry. Turn grilling meat meat or fish over once once or twice twice during during cooking, cooking, and baste baste frequently frequently with the the butter butter or oil, using using a brush. Grilled food food is is ready ready when when it it resists resists pressure pressure if if lightly lightly touched with the fingertip. Tiny pinkish droplets droplets appearing on the browned surface surface are another another indication indication that it is fully cooked. Grilled white white meat meat should be be less less browned browned than red meat meat and and a less less intense heat heat should should be be used. used. Grill fish fish at moderate moderate heat, heat, and baste baste frequently. frequently. Grill poultry poultry first if if it it is to be be cooked in breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. When three-parts three-parts cooked, cover coyer with butter butter or oil and roll in the the breadcrumbs breadcrumbs as as indicated indicated for Chicken d la diable isee (see CHICKEN). CHICKEN).

Interlarding Interlarding a a round round piece piece ofmeat of m~at

Interlarding Interlarding meat meat. pteulcE PIQUAGE DES DES vrANDEs VIANDES .- Certain Certain cuts cuts of of meat, meat, such such as as fillet fillet of of beef, beef, leg leg of of veal, veal, etc., etc., are are interlarded interlarded with lardoons. [n with best best pork pork fat fat cut cut into into small smalliardoons. In the the same same way, way, poultry, poultry, veal veal sweetbreads, sweetbreads, veal veal chops chops and and large large fish fish such such as as lardoons. carp, carp, sturgeon, sturgeon, etc. etc. are are interlarded interlarded with with very very small smalllardoons. Interlarding lnterlarding a afillet fil/et of of beef. beef Skin Skin the the meat meat and and remove remove all aIl tendons. Using Using a a larding larding needle needle threaded threaded with with a a lardoon, lardoon, tendons. thread it it into into the the fillet, fillet, following following the the grain grain of of the the meat. meat. The The thread depth of of the the stitch stitch is is determined determined by by the the length length of of the the lardoon. lardoon. depth Each lardoon lardoon should should project project 2 2 cm. (| (J inch) inch) on on either either side. side. Each Thread Thread the the second second row row of of lardoons lardoons through through the the meat, meat, 2 cm. alternating alternating them them with with the the first, first, at at a a distance distance of of2 cm. (f (~ inch) inch) making making sure sure that that the the lardoons lardoons always always project project over over the the meat. meat. Keeping the the spacing spacing even, even, thread thread as as many many double double rows rows of of Keeping lardoons into into the the meat meat as as its its length length requires. requires. After After the the fillet fillet is is lardoons completely interlarded, interlarded, trim trim the the lardoons lardoons so so that that the the ends ends are are completely of equal equal length. length. Tie Tie the the fillet fillet crosswise crosswise to to keep keep it it round round in in of if it it to to be be roasted roasted in in the the oven, oyen, in in a a shape. Put Put it it on on a a spit spit or, or, if shape. roasting roasting tin tin fitted fitted with with a a grid. grid. lnterlarding a a fricandeau fricandeau or or leg leg of of veal. veal. Trim Trim the the joint joint as as Interlarding indicated indicated under under VEAL. VEAL. Interlard Interlard as as for for fillet fillet of of beef. beef. lnterlardin~ saddle saddle of of mutton mullon or or roebuck, roebuck, baron baron of of hare, hare, Interlarding of venison, venison, etc. etc. Proceed Proceed as as indicated indicated above, above, adapting adapting haunch of haunch the thickness thickness of of the the lardoons lardoons to to the the size size of of the the meat. meaL the Interlarding lnterlarding small smal/ cuts cuts of ofmeat. Lardoons must must be be cut cut very very meat. Lardoons cuts and and a a finer finer needle needle should should be be used. used. Small Small fine for for small small cuts fine

METHODS CULINARY CULINARY METHODS

round round portions portions of of meat meat may may be be interlarded interJarded by threading threading the lardoons Jardoons into in to them them in in the form foon of of a rosette. rosette. This method method can also also be be used used with with beef beef and muttonfilets muttonfilets mignons, and for veal sweetbreads. These last, last, before before being interlarded, interlarded, must must be sweetbreads. under running soaked in in water, water, blanched, blanched, cooled cooledunder running water, and soaked Jeft to to get quite cold coJd under under a weight. weight. left Interlarding poultry pouJtry and game. PIQUAGE PIQUAGE DE DE voLAILLES VOLAILLES ET Interlardirg DU DU GTBIER GIBIER - Only large poultry poultry for for braising is is interlarded. interJarded. Singe with with a hot hot flame fl.ame the part part of of the breast breast to be be interlarded interlarded Singe or dip dip it in boiling water to make the flesh fl.esh firm. or Only old game for braising, such as partridge, partridge, pheasant pheasant or Only hazel-grouse, is is interlarded. interlarded. Proceed Proceed as as for for poultry, poultry, using hazel-grouse, lardoons. very small smaJJ lardoons. POCHAGE - Poaching is is a a gentle simmering in Poaching. pocHAcE on the The amount amount of water or stock used depends on liquid. The food to be be poached. poached. food as eggs well as Meat, poultry pouJtry and fish can all aJJ be poached, poached, as weJJ in are poached and meat balls, balls, Mousses Mousses and poached in and and mousselines are little stock. a bain-marie. Sweetbreads Sweetbreads are poached poached in a very Jittle abain-marie. with vegetables, or in poached in a white stock stock with Red meat is poached lamb d Leg of of lamb boiling salt water, as is customary with Leg boiling as is customary with salt water, l'anglaise (see LAMB). White meat is is seldom poached. But seldom poached. I'anglaise term 'poaching' may be applied to the method of cooking the term'poaching'may preoaring lamb and veal en blanquette. used in preparing stock, Large poultry to be poached is put into cold white stock, as and seasoned seasoned as the liquid liquid brought to boil, skimmed. skimmed, and to the the boil, the very (q.v.).The with pot-au-feu (q.v.). The poultry poultry is is then simmered very then simmered in the be stuffed can be stuffed or for poaching can the stock. Poultry for slowly in lardoons or or not, and trussed. It be larded with best best lardoons larded with It can can be not. and trussed. the into the studded cut into ham, tongue tongue or truffies cut with pieces of ham, studded with shape pegs. To protect the while cooking, To protect the breast breast wrule little pegs. shape of !ittle is poultry should be barded. poultry is whether the the poultry To test poultry barded. To test whether should be prick the thigh. When thejuice out is white, the juice which runs out ready, prick the bird is and untruss untruss the drain and After cooking, cooking, drain is cooked. cooked. After the bird poultry and fried bread, Serve on on fried poultry barding. Serve and remove remove the the barding. surrounded with an appropriate garnish. The The stock, strained stock, strained appropriate garnish. and boiled down to be added to to the the sauce sauce to down and and added is boiled and skimmed, is served the dish. served with the Large fish can be and moistened moistened slices, and whole or in slices, be poached whole are with concentrated fish are Thick s!ices slices of of fish fish stock stock (fumet). Truck concentrated fish (brill, whiting, prepared sole, whiting, sole, fish (briIl, prepared in way. Fillets of of fish in the the same same way. turbot, etc.) to be poached are dish, in a a buttered are put in buttered baking dish, seasoned, concentrated few tablespoons with a a few tablespoons concentrated moistened with seasoned, moistened fish oven. in the and cooked the oyen. fish stock cooked in stock and Poached eggs which a a water to to which salt water in boiling salt are cooked cooked in eggs are few vinegar have added. have been been added. few drops of ofvinegar pan, covered Fish or with covered with into a a buttered are put into buttered pan, or meat balls are boi!ing and very very slowly simmered. slowly simmered. salt water and boiling salt Food principle, such as such as poached on bain-marie principle, on the the bain-marie Food poached mousses. in puddings, etc., are stood stood in etc., are moulds, puddings, mousses, mousselines, mousselines, moulds, baking in a a and cooked cooked in pans half full of hot water, water, and of hot half full baking tins tins or or pans very very slow oven. slow oyen. po6llcn - Slow Pot a using a steam, using by steam, Slow cooking cooking by Pot roasting. roasting. POLAGE casserole is cooked with food is cooked with The food lid. The fitting Iid. with a a tightly casserole with tightly fitting butter have been been which have with vegetables vegetables which or fat, fat, together together with butter or slowly poultry or lish or nsh meat, poultry Pot-roasted meat, in butter. butter. Pot-roasted slowly cooked cooked in must be ready, take take When ready, frequently basted during cooking. cooking. When be frequently basted during it (q.v.). in a a cocotte cocotte (q.v.). a dish dish or or in and serve serve on on a it out of the the casserole casserole and out of Remove for boil for fat, add add wine wine or or stock, stock, boil cooking fat, Remove most most of of the the cooking a pour the dish. over the the dish. the liquor liquor over few moments, moments, strain, and pour a few strain, and Pot pot Brown meat meat or or fish fish to to be be pot Pot roasting roasting Ia Matignon. Matignon. Brown d la roasted a truck layer of of Matignon Matignon Cover with with a lightly in in butter. thick layer roasted lightly butter. Coyer (q.v.) paper (q.v.) or in buttered Wrap in buttered paper root vegetables. vegetables. Wrap or fondue of root fondue of and with surround with After cooking, cooking, unwrap, unwrap, surround oven. After and cook cook in in the the oyen. garnishes which the the garnishes and pour on stock to to which on the the strained strained stock and pour matignon added. matignon has has been been added. Braising lining aa also be carried out out by by Iining can also be carried Braising it la la matignon matignon can braising placing pan with and placing vegetables and root vegetables with thefondue of root braising pan the fondue of
297 297

with butter, on top. top. the meat, meat, fish or poultry, poultry, liberally liberally basted with butter, on of recipes for and recipes Ragotts Ragots - Details Details and for the preparation preparation of RAGOUT. ragofit ragot dishes are to be found under RAGOT. meat, in the cooking cooking of of meat, n6rrsslcE Roasting. Roasting. RTISSAGE - This is is used used in game, large fish and poultry, shellfish. and shellfish. poultry, game,

internal is that the internai roasting is that the The distinctive feature of roasting feature of The

juices Reculet culinaires Reculet juices are preserved. preserved. lnhis In his Principes Principes et lois culinaires defines the roasting process: detines process: of transmisworks by concentration works 'Cooking by by concentration by means of means of insinuainsinuaof boiling, by means as in the case of sion and not, no t, as in the boiIing, by

ponderable or or whether ponderable agent, whether The concentrating concentrating agent, tion. tion. The
The first first and envelops the substance. The imponderable, imponderable, attacks and the driven inwards towards the heated, the juices coating is is heated, juices are driven heat of The heat of the forms on on the the surface. The centre. and and the the crust forms centre, juices sealed in in The juices second. The transmitted to the second. first coating is transmitted fust tissues, by the outer coating, being unable to escape from the tissues, powerfully to to the and contribute contribute powerfully heat themselves, and generate heat cooking of the the whole.' cooking action of of a a naked by the the action roasting: by two ways of roasting: There are two Spit roasts in the the oyen. oven. Spit by radiant heat in flame on on the spit; or by fl.ame oven roasts because substances placed before are superior to oyen an in an cooked in those cooked evaporate freely whereas those an open fire can evaporate an by the the altered by and radically radically altered are enveloped enveloped and enclosed oyen oven are enclosed produced. However, roasts are usually cooked cooked in in However, roasts are usually vapour produced. vapour well These, being being extremely extremely weil gas or ovens. These, or electric electric ovens. coal, gas coal, good results, and they do sometimes sometimes they do produce good results, and designed, produce designed, an automatic automatic spit. spit. incorporate an incorporate

roasted ready10 to be be oyen oven roasted Piece of ofbeef Piece beef ready

The intensity intensity of of the the lu FOUR FouR -- The ndrrs AU oven. RTIS Roasting Roastiry in in tbe the oven. When roast. Wh the suit the the roast. regulated to to suit cooking en the heat must must be be regulated cooking heat fuel lowered. With With aa soJid solid fuel must be heat must be lowered. crust is formed, formed, the the heat crust is part of cooler part of the the moved to to aa cooler roast should should be be moved cooker, cooker, the the roast pan if if necessary. necessary. pan stood in another another pan oyen stood in and the roasting pan oven and the roasting of raised above above the the bottom bottom of be raised roasts to It for oyen to be It is is essential oven roasts essential for be grid. Basting roasts should should be pan on Basting of of oyen oven roasts the a grid. on a roasting pan the roasting (see below). below). carried for spit roasts (see as for spit roasts carried out out as knowingwhen knack of of knowing It when long to acquire the the knack not take to acquire It does does not take long in the instructions in the the instructions follow the the If in in doubt, doubt, foJlow is ready. ready. If roast is the roast (see beIow), roasts (see below), and and section section on on Average Average cooking cooking time time for for l'oasts look indications. look for for the following indications. the following (beef and perfectly cooked, is perfectly cooked, aa mutton) is When and mutton) red meat meat (beef When red pink blood. In the caseof of pale pink thecase small prick will it exude exude pale blood. In will make make it small prick juice is pork) the iscolourless. Poultry (veal, lamb, white colourless. Poultry lamb, pork) the juice meat (veal, white meat pure whitejuice plate, pure white juice is if tilted on on aa plate, perfectly cooked when, iftilted is perfectly cooked when, reddish areany any reddish long as pours As long as there there are pours out body. As out of of the the body. ground and ground Winged and traces, poultry is not fully fully cooked. cooked. Winged is not traces, the the poultry juice. It pinkish juice. It should be game should be game should, asaa rule, rule, exude exude aa pinkish should, as tested redmeat. meat. wav as asred same way in the tested in the same

CULINARY METHODS METHODS CULINARY

game snoliid Poultry and and game snould be be trussed trussed and and bardee!, interbarded, or or interPoultry purpose of larded with with besl lardoons. The best lardoons. The purpose pork of barding with with pork larded fat or fat bacon protect the or fat parts of bacon is is 10 to proteet the delicate delicate parts of the the breast breast fat from the intensity of the intensity heat, and of the the heat, and also also to impregnate the to impregnale the from flesh wilh with fal fat 10 make it to make it more more tender. Barding is is done tender. Barding done by by Resh tying the the fat fat 10 to the with string. the bird bird with string. After After cooking, cooking, the fat is is the fat tying removed. removed. Large cuts cuts of meat are of meat are sometimes sometimes barded. barded. More More often, often, the the Large parts of delicate parts protected with of these these cuts cuts are are protected with well-flattened well-flattened delicate pieces of of beef beef or or veal veal fat. fat. pieces Most roasts roasts should should be be served served direct)y directly they they an~ are removed removed Most from the the spit spit or or the For red the aven. oven. For red meat, meat, however, however, it it is is from advisable to it out to take take it out of of the the oven oven or or off off the the spit spit a a few few advisable quite ready, minutes before it is before it is quite ready, and keep it and to to keep it hot hot in in front of of minutes the open it is until it is ready ready to open oven oven until to be be served. served. While it it is is standstandthe ing thus. meat settJes and is is ready ta thus, the the meat settles and to carve. carve. ing juices, roasting. ~)TIs ndus A LA La DROCHE snocrm -- Red Spit roasting. Rd meat, rich in in juices, Spit must always always be be browned browned and and then then subjected subjected 10 to an even even heat, heat, must to ensure ensure that meat is is cooked that the the meat cooked right right through. through. Anthracite Anthracite to gives an an intense intense heat producing flames, and heat wirhout without producing and is is very very gives for cooking suitable for cooking red red meac. meat. suitable For white white meaL meat, the heat must the heat must be be adjusted adjusted sa so that that the For external browning browning and and internaI internal cooking place simulcooking take take place external principles apply ta taneously. The The same poultry. same principles to poultry. tancously. Spit-roasted food food must must be frequently basted. This is done be frequently Spit-roasted with the floating on the fat on the the top of the liquid liquid in in the drippingwirh fat floating juice itself. pan, and and oot not with with the the juice itself. Basting with pure pure fat profat propan, a tender, duces a tender, well-browned well-browned roast, whereas basting basting with the the duces prevents the cooking liquid liquid prevents the roast roast from browning. cooking browning. Gravy of ofthe roast. JUS nOrn -- lt JUs DE It is is essential to extract DE RTIS Gravy the roast. goodness in all the in the roasting or dripping dripping pan by immediate ail the goodness dilution with gravy of of a dilution with water or clear stock, and boiling. boiling. The gravy roast completely skimmcd. should not not be be completely skimmed. roasl shoule! The S!rving serving of of roasts. roasts. DRESSAGE DREssAGE nrs ROrn roast, if it it DES R6TIS The - The roast, is a joint bird, is is laid garnished on a a very dish and and garnished is a joint or or a a bird, laid on very hot hot dish with picked over, washed wirh fresh fresh watercress watercress which which has has been becn picked gravy is and thoroughly The gravy drained. The separately, but is served separately, but and thoroughly drained. just serving, the cooking cooking fat poured over the just before before serving, rat may be poured roast. and eastem eastern France, a thick In some sorne parts parts of of northern northem and roas!. In pur6e apples and stewed fruit with roasts. of apples and stewed fruit is is often orten served with roasts. pure of These compotes should be be only only slightly slightly sweetened. These compotes and and pur6es pures should Winged wild duck. duck, pintail and teal, Winged game, game, other than wild pintail and tcal, are served canaps or or slices sli.ces of of bread bread fried f ried in in butter but ter and and spread served on on canapis with gratinforcemeat gratinforcemeat (see (see FORCEMEAT). FORCEMEAT). with ri Game Game birds birds are are usually usually garnished garnished with with watercress watercress and halved or quartered quartered lemons. lemons. Orange is is sometimes sometimes served halved or instead of lemon lemon with wi th wild wild duck, duck, teal, tea l, pintail pin tail and and other wildwi Idinstead of fowl. fowl. In is often onen garnished garnished with In England, England, roast roast winged winged game game is Potato PotGto crrps crisps (see (see POTATOES). POTATOES). Bread Bread sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) and and fried fricd breadcrumbs breaderumbs are are served served in in addition addition to ta the gravy. gra ..'Y. Redcurrant Rcdcurrant jelly jelly and and chestnut chestnut pur6e pure are are often served with roast ground game. game. roast venison venison and and small small ground Average Average cooking cooking times times for for roasts. roasts. rEMps TEMPS MoyEN MOYEN DE DE curssoN CUISSON ors DES ndns RTISBeef. Bee! Oven Oven temperature lemperat\Jre 200'C. 200"C. (400'F., (400""F., Gas Gas Mark Mark 6) 6) except except fillet. fillet. Contre-filet Contre-filet or or faux faux filet fi/el - Boned, Boned, 20 20 minutes minutes per per 500 500 g. g. (l (1 lb.) lb.) plus pl us 20 20 minutes. mi nutes. On On the the bone, bone, l5 15 minutes min utes per per 500 g. g. (l (1 lb.) lb.) plus plus 15 15 minutes. minutes. Fillet Fil/el - Oven Oven temperature temperature 230'C. 230C. (450"F., (450~F., Gas Gas Mark Mark 8) l2 12 to lb.); or ta 15 15 minutes minutes per per 500 500 g. g. (1 (lib.); or 15 15 to ta 18 18 minutes minutes per per 500 500 g. g. (1 (l lb.) lb.) if if using using a a spit. spi!. Rib lb.) plus 5 minutes 15 to ta l8 18 minutes minutes per per 500 500 g. g. (l (lIb.) plus I15 mi nutes; Rih - 15 ; or 20 20 minutes minutes per per 500 500 g. g. (l (1 lb.) lb.) plus plus 20 20 minutes minutes if if using using a a spit. SpiL As As soon saon as as the the meat meat is is taken taken off off the the spit spit it it must must be be put put in in a a wann 30 minutes minutes or or longer, longer, according according to ta size. siu. wanm oven aven for for 30 Under U nder this this very very moderate modera te heat heat cooking cooking is is completed completed and and 298 298

juices. rib retains retains ail the rib all ils its internaI internal juices. the (l lb.) Sirloinl0 to 15 15 minutes per 500 minutes per plus 10 g. (1 lb.) plus 500 g. l0 mnutes. minutes. Sir/oill - lOto Sirloin roast roast per 500 g. it /'anf!/aise l'anglaise -- 15 18 minutes minutes per 15 \0 to 18 500 g. Sir/oin (l lb.) plus 15 lb.) plus 15 minutes. minutes. (1 Lamb and and ml/(Ion. mutton. Oven (400'F., Gas Oven temperature temperature 200~C. 200"C. (400"F., Gas Lamb Mark 6). 6). Mark Baron -- 1 (l lb.) 18 20 minu g. (1 per 500 to 20 minutes plus 18 lb.) plus 500 g. 18 min minutes. Baron R to tes per utes. Breast --20 per 500 (l lb.) plus 25 minutes minutes per plus 20 to 25 500 g. 20 minutes. minutes. Breast 20 to e. (lIb.) (l lb.) Leg --20 g. (1 per 500 500 g. lb.) plus 20 20 minutes. minutes. Leg 20 minutes per (l lb.) plus Saddle -- 18 18 to 20 20 min minutes plus 18 g. (lIb.) 18 min 500 g. minutes. Sadd/e utes per 500 utes. (l lb.) Shoulder -- l8 18 ta 20 minutes per 500 g. (1 to 20 minutes per plus 18 lb.) plus 500 g. 18 Shou/der minutes. minutes. Pork. Oven (400'F., Gas Oven temperature 200"C. 200C. (400f., Gas Mark 6). 6). Pork. Breast -25 (l lb.) plus 25 g. (1 to 30 minutes per 500 500 g. 25 minutes. minutes. Breast25 to Fillet per 500 (l lb.) plus 25 25 to 30 minutes per g. (l 500 g. 25 minutes. minutes. Fil/el - 25 Veal. Oven (400'F., Gas Mark Oven tempcrature temperature 200C. 200'C. (400F., Mark 6). Vea/. Breast - 24 to 28 minutes per 500 g. (l lb.) plus 24 g. (J 24 minutes. minutes. Breasl(U.5. tender/oin) Lengthwise cut cut of of chump chump end end (U.s. tenderloin\ 25 ta LenglhlVise to 30 - 25 (1 lb.) plus 25 g. (1 minutes per 500 g. 25 minutes. minutes. mnutes Top fou! loin or fil/et 25 to per 500 (l lb.) g. (1 to 30 minutes per lb.) plus 500 g. Top fillet - 25 25 minutes. 25 Poultry. Pou/try. (400"F., Chickm Chicken F., Gas Mark 6), 6), - Oven temperature 200"C. (400" (l lb.) plus 15 l5 minutes minutes per 500 500 g. (l l5 minutes; or 20 minutes 15 (l lb.) plus 20 minules per 500 g. g. (lIb.) minutes if using a spit. Duck (375"F., Oven temperature 190 190'C. Gas Mark Mark 5), Duck C. (375'" F., Gas - Oven (l lb.) 15 minutes minutes per g. (J plus 15 500 g. lb.) plus 15 minutes; minutes; or 15 per 500 or 20 (l lb.) plus 20 minutes if using a g. (1 minutes per 500 g. spit. a spi!. Goose Oven temperature 190 190'C. Gas Mark Mark 5), C. (375"F., Gas - Oven (l lb.) plus 15 l5 minutes per 500 g. (1 l5 minutes. 15 (400"F., Guinea-fowl Oven temperature temperature 200C. 200"C. (400' Guinea-fow/ F .. Gas - Oven 45 to Mark 6), 6), 45 60 minutes I to or 1 l{ ta 60 min utes per bird; or to 1 ~ hours if if using a spil. spit. Pigeon - Oven temperature (400'F., Gas Mark 6). 6), tempcralure 200"C. 200C. (40"F., 20 minutes minutes if 20 to ta 30 min utes per bird; or 30 to 40 mi nu tes per bird if using a spic. spit. l1sing Turkey temperature 190'C. 190"C. (375'F., (375F., Gas Mark Mark 5), - Oven temperature 15 (l lb.) a bird 15 minutes per per 500 g. g. (1 lb.) plus plus 15 J 5 minutes for a weighing up to or l0 51 kg. kg. (12 (12 lb.), lb.), or 10 minutes per per 500 g. ta 5| (1 (1 lb.) lb.) plus plus l0 10 minutes minutes for a a bird bird weighing wcighing over over 5{ 5~ kg. (12 (12 lb.). Ground game. (400.F., Gas Ground game. Oven Oven temperature temperatllre 200'C. 200C. (400F., Mark Mark 6). Hare (baron) (baron) - 15 to ta 20 minutes per 500 g. g. (l (1 lb.) plus plus 15 minutes; or 20 to (1 lb.) plus ta 25 25 minutes minutes per 500 g. g. (1 plus 20 minutes minutes if if using using a spit. spi!. Roebuck Roebuck (haunch (haunch or saddle) - 20 minutes per 500 g. (l (1 lb.) plus minutes; or 25 to ta 30 minutes per 500 g. (1 (1 lb.) plus plus 20 minutes; 25 minutes minutes if if using using a spit. Young Young rabbit rabbil - 15 15 minutes minutes per per 500 500 g. g. (l (l lb.) lb.) plus plus 15 15 minutes; minutes; or 20 minutes minutes per per 500 500 g. (l (1 lb.) lb.) plus plus 20 minutes if if using using a spit. Winged Winged game. game. Oven Oven temperature temperature 200"C. 200C. (2100'F., (400F., Gas Mark Mark 6). 6). Grouse -25 to 40 minutes - 25 to to 30 30 minutes minutes per per bird; bird; or or 30 3010 minutes per bird if using using a spit. spi!. bird if Partridge Partridge - 30 30 to ta 45 minutes minutes per per bird; or or 45 to ta 60 minutes minutes per a spit. spi\. per bird bird if if using using a Pheasant Pheasant - 50 50 to to 60 60 minutes minutes per per bird; bird; or I 1 to ta lf It hours hauTS if if using spi t. using a spit. Quai/15 minutes minutes per per bird; bird; or or 20 20 minutes minutes per per bird bird if if using Ilsing Quail - 15 a a spit. spic. Snipe 5 minutes Snipe - I15 minutes per pcr bird bird; or 20 20 minutes minutes per per bird bird if if using using ; or a a spit. spi\. Teal Teal30 minutes minutes per per bird; bi(d; or or 40 40 minutes minutes per per bird bird if if using using - 30 a a spit. spit. V[/oodcock Woodcock - 25 25 to to 30 30 minutes minutes per per bird; bird; or or 30 30 to to 35 35 minutes minutes per a spit. spit. per bird bird if if using using a

CURNONSKY CURNONSKY
Sauts frying pan, cooking in a wide, shallow frying Saut6s - Method of cooking In France these portions of food. food. In generally used used for small small portions pans are called sautoirs, sauteuses. sautoirs, plats d sauter or sauteuses. cooking is done in heated fat, butter The cooking butter or oil. The food is seasoned butter or fat is thoroughly thoroughly heated, it is seasoned and when the butter laid fiat flat in the pan so that it is thoroughly sealed. sealed. and fillet treated in in this way are rump and meat treated Small cuts of meat and noisettes steaks, mdaillons medaillons and and tournedos (beef); cutlets and veal sweetsweetand escalopes or veal chops and (mutton or lamb); veal veal chops breads. quickly as as quickly as possible Red meat meat must must be saut6ed as possible in Red be sauted fresh butter meat can can be saut6ed in in fresh claritied be sauted clarified butter. butter. White meat These cuts cuts are and, after after sealing, more slowly. and, may cook cook more slowly. These sealing, may sauted saut6ed with the pan uncovered. uncovered. etc.) is size, pigeon, etc.) Saut6ed poultry (chicken of medium size, Sauted apply as as in case of The same always jointed. jointed. The in the case same principles apply white meat. well browned on both sides and Pieces oflarger of larger poultry are weil with covered. left to cook further wi th the pan covered. pan and Serving. Saut taken out out of the the pan Serving. be taken Saut6 dishes must be The dishes as indicated recipe. The dishes are the selected selected recipe. served indicated in in the served as fried bread into shapes. arranged with with pieces cut into shapes. After arranged pieces of fried bread cut has been diluted with cooking stock which been diluted garnishing, the which has the cooking red or white wine, white or brown stock. cream, m, is poured stock, or crea over the dish. given to various ragots ragottts where where the Mixed sauts saut6s - Name given grary is not thickened with fiour. ragoftts, made up of flour. These ragots, gravy small pieces pieces of of boned lamb, beef, mutton or veal, are fried in butter, fat or oil. are cooked with various cooked in own stock diluted diluted with They are in their own ragoftts, and liquids, as as with and served with various with ordinary ragots, served with garnishes. garnishes.
ferments. It [t is is a a result result of the casein and ferments. the precipitation of of casein contains varying proportions of butter, depending on con tains varying proportions of butter, depending whether or not the milk has previously been skimmed. When curd is obtained by action of rennet, the curd is obtained the action by the of rennet, the serum serum still a considerable proportion of casein, which contains which can can be con tains a precipitated by a second The serum by a second coagulation. coagulation. The serum of milk precipitated casein. curdled by acidification contains very little casein. as it it is cream. Curdling is is the Curd can can be Curd be eaten as is or with cream. in the manufacture of cheese (q.v.). first operation in CURE CHEESE. CUR - See CHEESE.

CURLEW. COURLIS couRLIS - Wader, Wader, a a marsh which is is not bird which CURLEW. marsh bird highly esteemed from the culinary point of view. Cooked in rughlyesteemed
as plover (q.v.). the same same way as

CURNONSKY Maurice Edmond Edmond Sailland, Sailland, the the future CURNONSKY - Maurice October 1872. After Curnonsky, was was born l2 Octo Curnonsky, in Angers on ber 1872. bom in on 12 a secondary literature secondary school education, he went on to study literature a at the The attractio'1s attractions of journalism Sorbonne. The speedill' at the Sorbonne. journalism speedily enticed him away from a a university career, and in 1892 he career. and in 1892 enticed him away began to newspaper offices and and literary circles. circles. He to frequent newspaper made friends wherever he went.

long and and spindle-shaped CUMIN whose long spindle-shaped seeds are - Plant whose and five-sided and dull yellow or 1 ight brown in col our. They are five-sided light colour. and spicy smooth or covered with tiny hairs. They are acrid and in taste. and in in the Cumin is for seasoning and the preparation Cumin is used preparation of used for Wild cumin Bread is is also also made with cumin cumin seeds. Wild liqueurs. Bread is sometimes cheeses, Munster cheese. ses, such as Munster sometimes used in certain chee
metal in r.c,ssr Receptacle made of china or metaJ CUP. TASSE in various - Receptacle shapes and sizes, provided with a handle. EcslNsoN Official charged with the dut CUP-BEARER. CHANSON y duty - Official a king or other great personage. of pouring pouring wine for a personage. cup-bearer or bouteiller de France was a The title of senior senior cup-bearer purely honorary one under Louis XIV. XIV. This This officer had had no gentlemen under rus were twenty-four gentlemen his though there were duties though command. commando armorial bearing of this office The armorial office showed two silver-gilt silver-gilt arms of the king, engraved with with the arrns king, supporting bottles engraved supporting the gradually arms of the holder of the fell gradually the office. office. His functions feU arrns into disuse, until until finally they were exercised only only at coronations, ceremonial feasts, feasts, at Communion Supper on Maundy Thursday, etc. The office itself was left vacant. etc. The was sometimes Thursday, vacant. sometimes left The last bouteiller de France under the old monarchy was the de Lamerrnary, Lamermary, appointed in in 1702. marquis de The Echansons de Paris was founded founded after after the The chansons de Paris was the Second good wine. wine. World War. Its aim is to publicise good CURAQAO Liqueur made from the rind rind of Seville oranges CURAAO - Liqueur and brandy or gin. and

fi

(Ke-r'slone) Curnonsky at 80 years orage of age (KeyslOne) Curnonsky

CURCUMAIndian plant whose yellowish rhizome has an CURCUMA - Indian acrid and ginger. and bitter and smells flavour and saffron and and ginger. acrid bitter fiavour smells of saffron Powdered, the is used in curry powder and and English the rhizome is mustard. clIrr-e in milk or coagulum formed formed in CURD. CAILL - Precipitate or subjected to action of acidified by to the of rennet or aciditied rennet or by lactic subjected the action
299 299

On the advice of Alphonse Allais, the of one of these friends, Alphonse a pseudonym. It was the decided to to choose a young Sailland decided period of Franco-Russian "Why not Franco-Russian entente. "Why not Sky?" someperiod one suggested. He replied, 'Cur non Sky?' Sfty?' The pseudonym one had been found. had gives the Simon Arbellot, Arbellot, his biographer, gives the following Simon his biographer, life and and career career of this unrivalled princedescription of the life this unrivalled gastronomes. elect of gastronomes. 'Tracing Curnonsky's life through part of the Curnonsky's life through the the early early part century means ostentation of of the the boulevard, bou I ev ar d, century means reliving reliving all the gay ostentation and breathing air of what what is is called breathing again the the perfumed air called la /a and belle poque. ipoque. He He was was to be found found wherever wherever imagination imagination belle to be

CURRANT CURRANT
triumphed triumphed over conformity. confonnity. P. P. J. J. Toulet and Jean de de Tinan were circle and were friends friends of his; his; Willy Willy invited him him into his his circJe Curnonsky collaborof his favourite Cu monsky was later later to become become one of fa vouri te collaborators. author ,Hors. Everyone knew that the old old master humorist, humorist, author of sa so many licentious licentious novels, had had the knack of surrounding surrounding himself himself with with young intellectuals intellectuals who had had fun fun ghosting for him. pe/il vieux bim bien propre propre is attributed to Curnonsky; him. Un petit Toulet a part of Maugis Toulet is is supposed supposed to to have have written written a part of Maugis en great many minage; and the the two two together together wrote a a great many nowmnage; and forgotten works signed which have have a signed 'Willy', 'Willy', the the titles of which strong fin savour: des courtisanes, fin de de slbcle sicle sa vou r: le le Brtviaire Brviaire des courtisanes. le Mitier elc. Mtier d'amant, d'amanl, Jeu leu de prince, etc. 'Curnonsky 'Curnonsky was to be found wherever wherever there there was a meeting of of minds. L6on Lon Daudet, in his Souvenirs, gives gives us a picture picture of him as a regular regular visitor to Weber's, Weber's, joining joining in the debates of Forain, Maxime Dethomas, Adrien Adrien H6brard, Hbrard, Maurice Maurice de Fleury, of Marcel Fleury, while the slight, slighl, vaguely vaguely disturbing disturbing shadow shadow of Proust hovered background. He was also to be found hovered in the background. at Maxim's conversing conversing with Feydeau Feydeau and Maurice Maurice Bertrand. Bertrand. He used to join join Paul Fort occasionally in the evenings at the Closerie Closerie des des lilas, lilas, but but secretly he he preferred preferred the the poetry of George George Fourest fourest and Raoul Ponchon to symbolism. 'One travel and distant 'One day he he yielded to the temptations temptations of oftravel horizons. On his retum he he wrote wrote the account of the African expeditions of of the duc de Montpensier. Montpensier. He was to become a skilful "biographer" "biographer" of of this hunting hunting prince. He moved on to China country left China where where the the cuisine cuisine of the the country lefl an an indelible indelible imprint on his mind; he he proclaimed procJaimed it to be be the best of the world. 'This somewhat bohemian way way of life was, was, nonetheless, nonetheless, marked by a a considerable literary literary output. output. Novels, Novels, short marked by stories, collections of anecdotes anecdotes made made the stories, an an anthology, anthology, collections name a familiar familiar one one in in the press and in the na me of Curnonsky a publishing world. he wrote Une riche nature, na/ure, wor/d. For Dranem he for Charles Charles Barret, Barret, Un homme qui a bien tourni. tourne. 'Writing 'Writing was his passion. passion. And his masters? masters? First FirSI and foremost was La Bruydre, Bruyere, whose whose advice advice he he loved to 10 repeat to his young "If you wish to say it is raining, young friends: friends: "If raining. then say it is is raining." raining." Then Then Anatole Anatole France France (the (the Anatole Anatole France France of or Jacques Tournebroche Tournebroche rather than than of M. M. Bergeret), for the clarity his old-fashioned, old-fashioned, methodical methodical style. I 1 have have heard clarit)' of his Curnonsky Curnonsky cry out in indignation indignalion at the the sight of of a solecism. solecism. Language Language was no mere form of of words to to him. him, 'Then came carne the gastronomic gastronomie period, together tagether with princedom dom and and public acclaim. Fifty or so so academies academics and and clubs clubs fought for his presidency and solicited his his presence at their feasts. feaSlS. "Cur" "Cur" had had always loved loved his his food. The Anjou Anjou wine and rillauds of his his childhood had trained trained his his appetite, and the rillauds and while the rue Jacob periodlOuched on by Jacob period - so discreetly touched Madame Madame Colette Colelle - seems to 10 have have been been somewhat somewhat disappointdisappointing in this this respect, respect, the Maxim Maxim and Weber Weber era era followd followed closely closely ing in on its heels. of an an epicure and heels. Later, with with the the collaboration of great great amphitryon, amphitryon, Marcel Marcel Rouff, Rouff, Curnonsky undertook undertook what amounted to Il was to this this cause cause that to a tourist tourist crusade. crusade. It he he began to ta devote devole all ail his time. ti me. I-a Ln France France gastronomique gastronomique (32 (32 volumes, interrupted in!errllpled at the twenty-eighth twenty-eighth by the death of of his collaborator) is a monument monument of erudition, and a tribute to to eollaboralor) is the soil. There are also dozens dozens of cookery cookery the richness richness of our soil. books, Jess a literary 1i tera ry than than a a gastronomic gast ronomic delight. de] ight. books, each each one no no less 'A public public referendum referendurn in May 1927 1927 crowned him him Prince of Gastronomes, Gastronomes, and there Ihere was was no no respite respite for for him him after that. tha\. He He went dnes to light light snacks, snacks, inaugurations inaugurations and and enwent from from disnies thronements, tte-vins and and barbecues barbecues without without a a break. break. thronements, tArc-vins Wherever he went there there was was a table table laid laid ready ready for him, him, the Wherever he finest flnest wines wines placed placed at his his disposal. disposaI. 'On 23 March March 1928 he founded the Academy Academy of of GastroGastronomes, nomes, modelled on the the Acadmie Acadmiejranaise, fort Yseats seats frangaise, with forty and with symbolic symbolic titles titles ranging ranging from from Epicure Epicure to to Talleyrand. Talleyrand.
300 300

seat, Marcel Roufl Rouff in that of Honor6 Honor de Balzac. Balzac. For himself himself seat, he chose chose the seat of of Brillat-Savarin, Brillat-Savarin, in whose honour honour he gave gave an address. 'Curnonsky enjoyed enjoyed a a sprightly old old age. age. Honoured Honoured and fEted fted wherever he went, he had the satisfaction of seeing his young disciples disciples carrying earrying on his good work and and realising the idea that was so close to 10 his heart, that oflnking of linking the route to tourism. He died d ied as the ta the interests interests of the good restaurant to of tourism. result of an accident ofan accident in 1956.'
GROSEILLE * - There are various variOliS types of of currant, currant, CURRANT. cRosEILLE blackredcurraJ/ts, whitecurranls II'hitecurrants and and black the best-known being redcurrants, Red and and whitecurrants whitecurrants are cliitivated in in several are cultivated currants. Red and in regions of France, notably on the outskirts outskins of Paris, Paris, and the Meuse and and Puy-de-D6me Puy-de-Dme districts. districts. Blackcurrants Blackcurrants are the grown mainly on the COte Cte d'Or. In Dijon blackcurrants blackcurrants are to make make Cassis de de Dijon, an an internationally famous used to used liqueur. liqueur. Red and whitecurrants raw. as a dessert, but whiteeurrants can be eaten raw, a re more more commonly com monly used used in in jellies, jell ies, syrups sy rups and in various t hey are they sweets. Red Red and and whitecurrants whitecurrants are are used used at at Barle-Duc Bar-le-Duc to sweets. ma ke a jelly jelly which enjoys enjoys a great reputation. repu ta t ion. make compote. coMporE COMPOTI DE DE cRosErlrss GROSEILLES - Wash Wash and Curra nt compote. Currant clean the currants currants and put them in io a bowl. Pour pour over over them rhem a boiling syrup cups sugar plus plus lj 11 cups water) water) boiled boiled to syrllp (2 cups tzt"c. 121e. (250.F.). (250F.). lel/ies. Currant jam - See JAM, JAM', Jellies. Currant Curra nt juice for fOr ices ices. rus JUs DE DE GRosETLLE GROSEILLE pouR POUR GLAcEs GLACES Currant STRAWProceed as as for for strawberrv strawberry ice iee mixture. mixture. (See (See STRA WProceed BERRY.)
CAIU - Combination of spices, thoroughly dried, CURRY. cARI ground powder, and cooked slowly in clarified clarified butter, burter, ground to a powder, vegetable vegetable oil or or soured milk milk before adding adding the fish, fish, meat, Ineat, eggs or vegetables curried. The curry curry powders vegetables that are to be curried. sold in grocery shops are usually a combination combination of of fifteen Rfteen or twenty lwenty herbs, seeds and spices. Those Those who really appreciate appreciate curry spices to ta go go with curry choose choose special special combinations combinations of spices various sOllle of of which which call cali for for mild, mild, subtle subtle seasonings various dishes, some and others for hotter Orles. The strength ofa of a curry curry depends hotter ones. on how used. how much chilli ehilli is used. The principal principal ingredients ingredients of curry powder powder are are allspice, allspice, anise, anise. bay bay leaves, cinnamon, cnnamon, caraway, earaway, celery seed, seed, cloves, coriander, diU, fennel, fenugreek fenugreek (seeds coriander, cumin, curry leaves, Ieaves, dill, and leaves) , . garlic, ginger, mace, mustard, nutmeg, nutmeg, pepper (white (whitt! and black), paprika, paprika. poppy seeds, saffron, turmeric, tunnerie, mint, cubeb berries, zedoary berries, sumach seeds, juniper juniper berries, berries, zedoary root, TOot, salt. For the the preparation of different curries curries see see MUTTON, CHICKEN. CHlCKEN. Bichique Bichque curry curry (Cr6ole (Crole cookery). cARr CARI DE DE BIcHIeUES DlCHIQUIS - The bichique bichique is is a minute minute fish found near near the island of of R6union. Runion. It Il is is exported in tins and prepared as follows: Cook Cook a finely finely chopped chopped onion onion in in good good quality quaJity fat or or oil until golden. For a small tin tin of bichique add a large large peeled and seeded tomato cut eut into into tiny tillY pieces, pieces, and and I 1 coffeespoon coffeespoon seeded tomato R6union Runion saffron. Cover. Coyer, and cook for a few seconds. Pound together in in a mortar moTtar some sorne ginger, I 1 clove c10ve of of garlic, a sprig of parsley, parsley, and and salt. salt. Mix Mix with with the the ingredients ingredients in in the the pan. pan. Carefully Carefully add the fish. Do not stir stir or they they may may break break as they are to soak for 20 minutes. Cover Coyer the the pan pan are very very fragile. fragile. Leave Leave to and pUI it li in in a a moderate moderalt! oven oyen for for 20 to to 25 minutes. minutes. Serve Serve with and put Rice Rice d il la criole crole (see (see RICE). RICE). Bringelle CAJU DE DE BRTNGELLES RRINGELLES - Cut Cut Bringelle curry curry (Cr6ole (Crole cookery). cookery). cARr some sorne lean lean and fat pork pork into nto large large cubes as for for a stew. Brown them in fat with \Vth finely chopped onion. Add 2 teatea them lightly in well-crushed spoons saffron, parsley, parsley, thyme, thyme, garlic, a a piece piece of ofwell-crushed spoons stem ginger ginger and and chopped tomatoes. tomatoes. Slice Sli aubergines aubergines into into

His His friends joined joined him - Maeterlinck in in Vergilius Maro's

CUSTARD CUSTARD MARROW

rounds and dip them in water slightly slightly seasoned seasoned with salt and vinegar. Drain thoroughly and put them in a saucepan with the pork. Moisten Moisten with a little olive oil and cover. coyer. Stir from time to time, crushing the aubergines aubergines with the spoon.,Allow spoon.rAllow 2| 2t hours for cooking cooking on a low flame. Serve when the sauce is thick.

milk variously variously sweetened and and flavoured, and cooked either
over hot water or baked in the oven. oyen. Caramel custard. cnirvm Line a CRME uourfr MOULE AU AU cARAMET CARAMEL - Line mould with caramel and fill it with a preparation preparation of Vanilla custard a pan half-filled with custard (see below). Set the mould in a hot hot water and cook slowlv slowly in the oven. oyen.

CUSTARD. cniur CRME -- Custard is a mixture mixture of of beaten eggs and

Custard apple: a, fruit a. Section Section of offruit

CUSTARD MARROW. CHAYOTE cHAyorE

in France as that is is the in as brionne, brionne, that fruit of a a climbing plant the fruit
':,S'

Vegetable, also Vegetable, also known

"ii

-*#. :f.

belonging to to the the same family as marrows. The belonging as marrows. The custard same family marrow is a native of of Mexico Mexico and the Antilles. Its cultivation marrow notably Algeria. has spread to other hot countries, notably Algeria. The fruit of the custard marrow marrow is a a large green pear with deep ribbing. ribbing. Its Its surface is somewhat spiny. deep surface is The flesh spiny. The flesh is white, firm, homogenous, without smell or too pronounced a taste. It is prepared in many ways. Before cooking cooking it must like cardoons (q.v.), (q.v.), being be blanched or cooked au aa blanc, blanc,like quarters and first cut into quarters and trimmed trimmed into into lozenge-shaped lozenge-shaped first cut into pieces. pieces.

Caramel custard custard Caramel

CRME FRIrE FRITE - Put 250 g. g. (9 (9 o2.,2{ oz., 2~- cups) cups) Fried custard. cRiIrE sifted flour in in a pan with 125 g. (4 oz.,l oz., -t cup) fine sugar, 12 12 yolks, 4 whole whole eggs eggs and and a a small pinch of salt. Moisten Moisten egg yolks, with I 1 litre (lf (li pints, pints, generous generous quart) milk which which has been with boiled with with a vanilla vanilla pod. Add 50 50 g. (2 oz., f, J cup) cup) butter. butter. Mix boiled well and and cook on the the stove stove in the the same same way as French French pastr)) pastry well cream (see CREAMS), CREA MS), stirring all ail the time. Spread Spread out this cream on a buttered baking baking sheet in an even layer, layer, about 5 5 mm. mm. (+ Ci inch) thick, thick, and and leave to cool. Cut Cut into pieces pieces and dip in in beaten beaten egg egg and and breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. boiling fat. fat. Drain the pieces, dry them on a Fry in deep boiling sprinkle with powdered powdered sugar. sugar. Serve Serve with Apricot cloth, and sprinkle sauce (see SAUCE) flavoured flavoured with with liqueur. liqueur. sauce Vanilla custard. cRiME CRME uourEn MOULE A rn LA v.rNrI-m VANILLE _. Dissolve Yanilla g. (4 oz., * t cup) sugar in { 1 litre (scant pint, 2} 2J cups) cups) 100 g. boiled milk. milk. Add Add t ,! vanilla pod, and leave to infuse infuse for 20 boiled minutes. Pour this, this, little !ittle by little, over 2 whole eggs eggs and 4 minutes. yolks which which have have been been beaten beaten together together in a basin. basin. Mix egg yolks well and and strain. Remove Remove the froth froth which which forms on the surface surface well of the the cream. cream. of Fill a a charlotte charlotte mould mould with the the mixture mixture and and cook in in a Fill bain-marie in the the oven. oyen. Let it cool thoroughly thoroughly before before turning bain-marie it out. out. it

Custard marrows marrows Custard

CUST ARD APPLE APPLE coRossorCOROSSOL - Common Common name na me for for a species species CUSTARD of annona annona and and its its fruit.It fruit. It sometimes sometimes attains a weight of of 4 kg. of (8i (8t to to 9 9 lb.), lb), though though the the tree tree that that produces produces it is is stunted and bare. bare. The fruit, fruit, which which resembles resembles a large large pimento pimento in shape, has has a a The smooth green green skin with with a few hairy hairy protuberances. protuberances. The The pulp pulp smooth is white, white, compact and full full of of black black seeds the the size of of apricot apricot is kernels which, which, when the the fruit is is ripe, ripe, give give off an agreeable agreeable kernels The taste taste is is slightly acid. acid. When When crushed and mixed odour. The with four four or or five five times times its its volume volume of ofwater, the pulp pulp produces produces with water, the a liquid liquid similar similar to to milk. milk. After After being being sweetened sweetened and chilled it a makes a a pleasant pleasant drink. drink. makes 301 301

Custard marrows marrows in b6chanel bchamel sauce. sauce. cHAyorEs CHA YOTES AU BLANc BLANC Custard in the the same sa me way way as as Custard marrows d la Prepared in h crme crime (see (see below) but moistened moistened with with Bdchamel Bchamel sauce (see (see SA UCE) SAUCE) place of of fresh fresh cream. cream. in place au jus. jus. cHAyorEs CHA YOTES snA.rsfns BRAISES eu AU Braised custard marrows au JUS - Trim into lozenge lozenge shapes and and blanch in boiling salted JUs water. Drain. Put them in a buttered pan lined with strips of bacon rind rind and sliced carrots and onions. Season. Season. Cover Coyer with bacon consomm from which not all ail the fat has been been skimmed, a consomm6 reduced to a and cook with the lid on. When the liquor is reduced a glaze add a few tablespoons rich brown brown veal stock. Simmer. Simmer. Drain the custard custard marrows marrows and pour pour over over them them a a sauce sauce made Drain the liquor remaining remaining in in the the pan, pan, adding by boiling down the butter and straining straining through through a sieve. sieve. butter Custard marrows with butter. cHAyorEs CHAYOTES AU BEURRE - Cut BEURRE marrows into into large large lozenge-shaped lozenge-shaped pieces. Cook Cook the custard marrows in White White court-bouillon court-bouillon for for vegetables vegelables (see (see COURTCOURTin BOUILLON) keeping them them firm. firrn. BOUILLON) put them into a a saut6 saut pan pan or Drain and dry the pieces, put heavy frying pan pan in which which 3 tablespoons tablespoons (scant (scant i } cup) butter butter heavy has been been heated. Moisten with 3 tablespoons (scant * J' cup) cup) has

CUTTING BOARD BOARD CUTTING

veal or gently or chicken chicken consomm, consomm6, or or water. water. Coyer Cover and and cook cook gently veal until cooked. cooked. Pour Pour over over them liquor in in which them the the liguor which they have they have until cooked. witb with a a little little butter butter added. added. cooked, Custard marrows malrows i la la crme. crdme. CHA cHAyorEs A LA r..l CRME cntrrap -- Cook Cook Custard YOTES marrows in the custard custard marrows in the the same same way way as as for for Custard Custard marrows manows the with buller. butter. When When nearly nearly cooked cooked coyer cover them fresh them with with fresh with boiled cream cream and and finish finish cooking cooking with with the lid on. the lid on. boiled pour over To serve, serve, pour over them them the the cream cream in in which which they were they were To cooked. cooked. Custard marrows marrows i la la crole. cr6ole. CHA cHAyorEs A LA ra CROLE cnEore -Custard YOTES the custard custard marrows, marrows, blanch in salted blanch them them weil well in salted Quarter Quarter the (4 oz., g. (4 water. Cook Cook 100 100 g. oz.,l cup) chopped chopped onions in butter onions in butter water. 1 cup) (half and and oil and half). oil (half half). Add Add 3 peeled, seeded 3 tomatoes, tomatoes, peeled, seeded and and and garni (g.v.) (q.v.) a coarsely chopped, chopped, a a bouquet bouquet garni a minced minced clove clove of of coarsely garlic, and and the the custard custard marrows. marrows. Cook with the !id lid on. Cook with on. garlic, Serve in in a a border of rice, cooked of rice, cooked in in bouillon. bouillon. Sprinkle Sprinkle the the Serve custard marrows with chopped chopped parsley. custard marro\ly fritters. fritters. CHA cHAyorEs EN FRITOT FRrror -- Quarter the Custard marrow VOTES EN Quarter the custard marrows marrows and and cook cook in in White White court-bouillon court-bouillon for custard for (see COURT-BOUILLON). vegetables (see COURT-BOUILLON). Drain and and dry dry them. them. vegetables juice, salt Put them in a them in a marinade of of olive olive oil, lemon juice, oil, lemon and salt and Put pepper. Dip piece in Dip each each piece in a a light light batter batter and and deep-fry deep-fry in in pepper. boiling oil. oil. Garnish with fried parsley. boiling pouR garnish. CHA marrows used Custard marrows used as as a a garnish. cHAyorEs Custard YOTES POUR GARNITURES custard marrows, cooked in butter cooked in GARNITURES Quartered custard - Quartered part of as part or braised, braised, can can be garnish for be used used as of a a garnish for eggs, eggs, fish, or pieces of meat, fowl, etc. small pieces etc. small garnish eggs or fish, the custard marrows are are When used to garnish cut up into into large dice, blanched and cooked cooked in butter. garnish pieces To garnish pieces of meat or of meat or fowl, fowl, trim trim the the custard custard To in butter butter or braise, marrows into large lozenge shapes, cook in juices of the meat when they are nearly cooked, add the juices they are and when fowl which they are or fowl are to accompany. marrows au gratin. CHA Custard marrows cHAyorEs GRATINCustard YOTES AU GRATIN - Quarter Quarter the custard custard marrows, cook in in White White court-bouillon for the marrows, cook for (see COURT-BOUILLON) vegetables (see COURT-BOUILLON) then then simmer simmer in in vegetables butter. a buttered gratin dish and and sprinkle with butter. Arrange in a gratin dish grated grated cheese. Pour melted butter over them and brown in a moderate oven. oyen. marrows la grecque. CHA i la cHAyorEs,r r.l, GRECQUE cnrcqun Custard marrows YOTES LA Dice the custard marrows. Blanch in in salted water and and cook in a court-bouillon in same way way as as Aubergines Aubergines d la Ia in a in the the same grecque (see (see AUBERGINE). Leave Leave to to cool cool in in their liquor liguor before serving. hors-d'ouuvre. serving. Use as an hors-d'ouvre. Custard la martiniquaise. i la martiniquaise. CHA csayores Custard marrows marrows YOTES A ra LA ulnrnvt{ulIsn MARTINIQUAISE - Press Press boiled custard marrow in a a cloth c10th to water, then pound the pulp together extract the maximum maximum of ofwater, with bread dipped dipped in in milk. milk. Cook finely finely chopped onion in butter, butter, add the custard marrow marrow mixture mixture with a little salt and pepper, pepper, and milk. Smooth the surface with breadcrumbs and

(Recipe taken cook in in aa moderately moderately bot hot oyen. oven. (Recipe from the cook taken from the Bulletin de de la la socit sociitd d'horticulture d'horticalture d'Algrie.) d'Algdrie.) Bulletin marrows mornay. Custard marrows mornay. CHAYOTES cHAyorEs MORNAY MoRNAy -- Prepare Prepare in in Custard gratin. The the same way as as Custard Custard marrows same way manows au oil gratin. The custard the custard marrows are are arranged arranged in in a a dish layer of dish on a layer of Mornay Mornay sauce sauce marrows on a (see SAUCE), SAUCE), covered covered with with the sauce, sprinkled the same sprinkled with with (see same sauce, grated cheese and and browned browned in in the the oven. oven. gra ted cheese marrow salado salad. SALADE SALADE DE DE CHA Custard marrow Custard YOTES -- Quarter cHAyorEs the Quarter the marrows and custard marrows and cook cook in Vlhite court-bouillon in White court-bouillon for custard for (see COURT-BOUILLON). vegetables (see COURT-BOUILLON). Drain Drain and vegetables and slice slice Season with with oil, pepper and oil, vinegar, them. Season vinegar, pepper and chopped chopped herbs. herbs. them. Stuffed custard custard marrows. malrows. CHA cHAyorES FARcrEs -- Halve YOTES FARCIES Stuffed Halve the the custard marrows marrows crossways, crossways, trim trim and and slightly hollow them custard slightly hollow them Blanch in in salted out. Blanch water, drain drain and salted water, and dry dry them. them. out. gently in in butter. Simmer gently When nearly nearly cooked, Simmer butter. When cooked, fill fill them them (q.v.). pork forcemeat with a a mixture mixture of forcemeat and of pork and dry dry duxelles duxelles (g.v.). with Arrange the forcemeat in in the the forcemeat the form form of a dome. dome. Put Arrange of a Put the the gratin dish, custard marrows marrows on a buttered custard on a buttered gratin with dish, sprinkle sprinkle with gently in and melted melted butter, in the breadcrumbs and butter, and and brown brown gently the oyen. oven. prepared in in this Custard marrows prepared Custard this way way can can be be served as a served as a part of as part vegetable or garnish of particular dish. or used used as vegetable the garnish a particular ofthe ofa dish. pork forcemeat, Instead of forcemeat, tbey of pork Instead they can can be be filled filled with with one one or or preparations indicated indicated for other of of the the preparations for various various stutfed other stuffed (see TOMATO, TOMATO, AUBERGINE, vegetables (see AUBERGINE, etc.). etc.).
pLANcrrE CL-IITING BOARD. BOARD. PLANCHE ClJTTING A DCOUPER o6coupnn -- Beechwood Beechwood for cutting up groove and board used used for up meat, provided with with a a groove and a hole hole to to catch catch the juices. a

CUTTLEFISH. SEICHE, snlcrm, SCHE sitcrs -- Cephalopod mollusc with ClJTTLEFISH. with (cuttlebone), secreting an internaI internal shelJ an shell (cuttlebone), an inky inky liguid liquid secreting an (sepia). The The tough flesh becomes eatable (sepia). tough flesh eatable if it it is is vigorously vigorously was popular with the beaten. It was the Romans Romans and and is is stillliked in still liked in certain countries, notably notably in certain in Spain. Spain. Powdered Powdered cuttlebone cuttlebone formerly used was formerly used as as an an absorbent. absorbent. is prepared prepared like octopus. Cuttlefish is CIIVE --Large CUVE Large tun made of wood, cement or metal in in which grapes are pressed for the grapes are pressed the for wine wine and and in in which which red red wine wine is fermented.
CUVEAU cave. - Small cuve. CUVE CWEE cuvie can also be a - Product of a particular cuve. A cuve mixture mixture of ken from ditferent of grapes, either ta taken different parts ofa of a large as in the vineyard, as the Bordeaux district, bought from from different different growers under similar climatic conditions, in Burgundy, conditions, as as in or the product of different harvests in the same of different same region, region, as in Champagne and on Champagne opes of Rh6ne. The final on the sI slopes of the Rhne. final result depends upon upon the quality guality of depends vintage and the skilful of the vintage skilful balance mixture. of the mixture.

Cutting board board ((Larousse) Cutting Larousse)

302

(* oz.) (f pint, seant g. (1 of a small pinch of milk, 10 10 g. oz.) yeast, a scant cup) milk, (1
salt. lemon rind. salt, quarter of the the flour, flour, the a guarter Method. Make Make a a leaven with a Method. leaven with a moderate Keep in yeast and in a warmed. Keep milk, slightly slightly warmed. and the the milk, yeast temperature. the melted melted in volume, mix in the When the leaven has doubled in yolks, sugar sugar rind, egg egg yolks, little at a a time, time, the salt, salt, lemon rind, butter, a a Iittle rest of the the flour. flour. and and the the rest for 5 5 minutes. minutes. Cut Cut roll out. out. Leave Leave for and roll Dredge with with flour and cloth, thern on on a a floured cio into rounds with a th, a pastry-cutter, put them for 1 I hour. hour. temperature for rise in in a a moderate moderate temperature and and leave leave to to rise in a a fine sugar sugar and and bake bake in with fine sprinkle with Baste Baste with with butter, butter, sprinkle slow oyen. oven. jam. stewed fruit fruit or or jam. served with stewed Dampfnudeln are are usual1y usually served Dampfnudeln I teaspoon thick apricot apricot fillod with with 1 teaspoon thick rounds can can also also be be filled The The rounds put them them on a pur6e flavoured seal, put on a rum. Fold Fold and and seal, flavoured with with rum. pure join downward, downward, and and bake. bake. the jon buttered sheet with with the buttered baking baking sheet plssnNur -- Weed toothed or or pinnated Weed with with toothed DANDELION. PISSENLIT gathered in yellow flowers, fields from from in the the fields flowers, gathered leaves and yellow leaves and varieties, such such as as are improved improved varieties, to March. March. There There are November to plein coeur are cultivated. cultivated. and trs tris htif, hdtif,which plein which are coeur amlior arniliord and young dandelion salads. leaves are eaten raw, raw, in in salads. are eaten Tender Tender young dandelion leaves (q.v.). spinach (g.v.). like spinach They They can can also also be be cooked cooked like

(4 oz., g. (4 yolks, 100 g. melted butter, butter,2 oz., *crrp) sugar,5 egg egg yolks, sugar,5 cup) melted 2 dl.

Dab

DAB. family, the P/euronectidae Pleuronectidae family, Flat fish fish of of the rnrlNDE DAB. LIMANDE - Flat (8 and between long, with with scales 12 inches) inches) long, and 12 20 and 30 cm. cm. (8 between 20 and 30 almost as less elongated elongated than file. It is is oval oval and and less as rough as as a a file. the sole. eyes are placed, is coloured, sole. Its right side, where the eyes with head to to tail; tail; from head line running running from lateral line a semi-circular lateral with a its digested. and easiJy easily digested. The flesh flesh is is soft soft and side is white. The its blind blind side is white. The American very different. different. American dab dab is is not very AU (q.v.) are plaice (g.v.) suitable for dab. are suitable All recipes for plaice DACE. DARD family, fish of the Cyprinidae Cyprinidae family, DARD of the - Freshwater fish also known lt is gravelet or vandoise.lt is or vandoise. as aubourg, grave/et known in in France as caught in most is rather of central France but it is most of the rivers of leathery to preparod en m mate/ote. matelote. to eat and is is usually prepared eat and DAGH (furkish cookery) of shin shin veal DAGH KEBAB cookery) -- Pieces Pieces of KEBAB (Turkish grilled and skewered tomatoes, grilled and with slices slices of of onions onions and and tomatoes, skewered with sprinkled pilaf of of rice, rice, okra okra It is is served sprinkled with thyme. It servod with with pilaf with thyme. (g.v.), (q.v.), or sorne garnish. some other garnish. DAHLIA plant, originally originally found found in in Mexico, Ornamental plant, - Ornamental which Dahl of of Antwerp. Antwerp. name to to the the botanist botanist Dahl which owes owes its its name Dahlia to the the Jerusalem Jerusalem and are are similar similar to Dahlia tubers tubers are are edible edible and artichoke way as as in the the same same way in flavour. flavour. They They are are cooked cooked in artichoke in Jerusalem artichokes (q.v.). artichokes (g.v.). DAIKON. DAKON radish which which can can be be Large Japanese Japanese radish oniroN -- Large eaten and cooked cooked radish, or or parboiled and eaten raw raw like the the common common radish, like like turnips. turnips. DAISY. PQUERET field flowers. flowers. nAqurnnrre -- One One of of the the commonest commonest field Its young leaves salads. Its young leaves and and buds buds are are eaten eaten in in salads. DAME-BLANCHE (CoH sweet A kind kind of of or dessert) dessert) DAMF-BLAI\CI{E (Cold sweet or -A Plombires (See ICE ICES.) ICE CREAMS AND ICES.) ice cream. cream. (See CREAMS AND Plombidres ice DAMPFNUDELN g. (German ptisserie) pAtisserie) Ingredients. 500 500 g. DAMPIIJUDELN (German - Ingredients. (18 oz., (18 oz., 4t 4| cups) (4 oz., cups) sieved g. (4 fine cup) fine sieved flour, flour, 100 100 g. oz., -t I cup) 303 303

Dakon

DARIOLE DARIOLE
glaze on oven until the sugar sugar forms a in the the oyen back in a glaze on top. top. Cut into sections at once, following the lines marked out before baking. The base of this cake be made made with The base of this cake may may be with flaky flaky pastry (* inch) trimmings. to 3 mm. trimmings. It need need only be 2 to inch) thick mm. (i - the (f inch) thick; upper layer about 5 mm. mm. Ci thick; or both layers may (f inch). thickness of be of equal thickness of 4 mm. (i Creamfor filling dartois. finely in a Crearn for filling dartois. Pound finely a mortar mortar 100 g. (4 oz., (4 oz., g. (4 oz., i sugar with 100 g. (4 ~ cup) sugar ~ cup) with 100 oz., ? cup) blanched "up) 2 eggs to prevent the mixture almonds, adding mixture from becomg. (4 oz., ing oily. ~ cup) butter to a paste, and oily. Soften 100 100 g. oz.,l a paste, add to add to the the mixture. mixture. Add Add also also a a smaU small glass of rum rum and, and, if if (3 tablespoons) French pastry desired, pastry cream desired, 2 tablespoons (3 (see CREAM). CREAM). good cream ground almonds A good cream can be made by by mixing ground can be with French pastry pastry cream, cream, and and flavouring the mixture with vanilla vanilla or rum. rwn. The greatest care must be be taken to seal seal the layers of pastry as the cream boils during layen during cooking cooking and and tends to ooze out.

(Dehillerin. Phot. Larousse) Dariole Dariole moulds mou Ids (Dehillerin. Larousse)

DARIOLE Small cylindrical cylindrical mould. The name DARIOLE - Small mould. The name also applies to the cakes baked in these these moulds. Line with Puff pasty Line dariole dariole moulds mou Ids with pastry (see (see DOUGH) folded folded and and rolled out 6 times. Fill FiU with Frangipane Frangipane cream (see almonds and and flavoured (see CREAMS) CREA MS) mixed mixed with with almonds flavoured with kirsch some other or sorne other liqueur. liqueur. Bake Bake in in a a hot hot oyen, kirsch or oven, and sprinkle sprinkle with sugar.
DARI\E DARNE - Thick slice of of a large large raw fish. This cut used used to be called, a dalle (slab). (slab). Darnes Darnes of of fish can be poached, poached, braised, grilled, grilled, or sauted saut6ed in butter. butter. This is a typical recipe. Darne of salmon i I'ancienne. l'ancienne. DARNE DARNE DE DE SAUMON L'Al.rL'ANsAUMoN A CIENNE - Season with with salt salt and and pepper a a darne darne of salmon cIENNE weighing between between 500 and 600 g. (about l+ 1t lb.) and place it buttered fireproof fireproof dish. dish. Moisten Moisten with I 1dl. (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, in a buttered scant j ~ cup) cup) white wine and and the same quantity of concenconcenfish stock. Add a small sliced onion, a trated fish a bouquet garni and and the trimmings and peelings of mushrooms, the mushthemselves to be used Jater rooms themselves later for the garnish. Bring to the boil on the stove, and then place in the oven. oyen. time. About 10 10 Cook for 20 minutes, basting from time to time. ta king it out of the oven, oyen, add the peeled and minutes before taking trimmed mushrooms. Drain the salmon, and garnish with trimmod the mushrooms mushrooms arranged at each end of the dish. Top each mushroom mushroom with a poached poached oyster, decorated with a strip of truffe truffle tossed in butter. butter. Surround Surround the salmon salmon with freshwater crayfish crayfish which which have have been been tossed tossed and and cooked cooked in in a a courtbouillon (q.v.). Boil down the cooking stock of the the salmon and thicken butter. Add I 1 tablespoon liqueur liqueur brandy with egg yolks and butter. and and a a touch of cayenne cayenne pepper. Pour some sorne of this this sauce sauce round round the salmon and serve the rest separately. separately.

Dates Dates and date-palm

DATTE DATE. DArrE

grows wild in the area bounded the Chaldeans Chaldeans in antiquity. It grows by the the Euphrates Euphrates and and the the Nile, Nile, and and is is cultivated in the cultivated in by desert oases of southern Algeria and Tunisia. The male and

The fruit was known to fruit of the date-palm was The

Dartois (Larousse) (Larousse) Dafiois

on separate trees and and artificial female principles principles grow grow on separate trees female pollination pollination is therefore necessary. There hard and dates, the the latter latter being being more There are are hard and soft soft dates, prized. The best dates from Tunisia, Algeria highly prized. dates come Tunisia, Algeria come from The best western Asia. They are about the size of a thumb, with and western
yellowish-red yellowish-red skin, and have a sweet sweet flavour. Excellent dates are grown grown in in South Carolina and and Arizona (U.S.A.). Since are a concentrate ofsugar of sugar (73 per cent oftheir of their Since dates are nourishweight is rapidly assimilable sugar) they are full of nourishquantities of phosphorus ment. They They contain contain appreciable quantities phosphorus ment. and calcium and and are rich in in Vitamins A A and and B. B. Sorne and calcium are rich Some made from dates. alcoholic drinks, including brandy, are made alcoholic (dessert) fritters. - See FRITTER, Sweet (dessert) frittas. Date fritters DATTES FOURRES - Stone the FoURREEs Stuffed dates (petits fours). DATTEs dates, and stuff with almond paste flavoured with kirsch or pistachio nut paste. Sprinkle Sprinkle with crystallised rum, or with pistachio sugar.

DARTOIS - Small Small snacks served served as as an an hors-d'oeuvre hors-d'oeuvre or

light light main main course. course. For For recipes recipes see see HORS-D'(EUVRE, HORS-D'UVRE,
Hot hors-d'auvre. hors-d'uvre.

DARTOIS @f,tisserie) (ptisserie) - Make Make two two layers of Puff pasty pastry (see (see DOUGH). Fill Fill the the middle of one one layer layer with almond almond cream and cover coyer with the second layer. Brush the top with egg, leaving the edges untouched untouchcd or the pastry will wiil not rise
baking. during baking. Lightly mark dividing lines at evenly spaced intervals to
indicate be cut cut later. Bake Bake in a moderate indicate where where the pastry pastry is to be oven, oyen, then then sprinkle sprinkle the top lightly lightly with icing sugar sugar and put

DAUBE - Method cooking meat. Although this method DAUBE Method of cooking used for other meat, as as well weil as poultry and game, the can be used qualification means a cut term daube without without qualification cut of ofbeef beef cooked term daube en daube, that is, is, braised in in rod rcd wine wine stock well well seasoned seasoned en with herbs.

304 304

DECANT DECANT

Stuffed tes dates Stuffed da

(Scarnati) (Scarnori)

The name daube a dish made with d l'avignonnaise I'avignonnai,te means a in red red wine. mutton cooked in For of daube see BEEF, BEEF. MUTTON, MUTTON. daube see kinds of For different different kinds TURKEY, TURKEY, PHEASANT. PHEASANT.
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DAUBIRE earthenware or or DAUBTDRE - Casserole of stoneware, earthenware tinned copper the cooking cooking of of daubes. copper for for the DAUCUS medicinally seeds, used used medicinally whose aromatic aromatic seeds, Plant whose - Plant in preparation of some of sorne now used in the the preparation former times, times, are are now used in in fonner liqueurs. liqueurs. DA UMONT ( preparing large fish. The The (A LA) large fish. Method of of preparing DAUMONT LA) - Method Daumonl quenelles, (see GARNISHES) garnish (see comprises quenelles, Daumont garnish GARNISHES) comprises soft served crayfish tails, tails, served roe, mushrooms and freshwater freshwater crayfish soft roe, mushrooms and with with Nantua Nantua sauce. sauce. DAUPHIN DAUPHINE region stretches from the the Alps Alps ttre Dauphin Dauphin6 region stretches from - The to ers on Rh6ne Valley. In the north it it bord borders on the the Lyonnais Lyonnais to the the Rhne Valley. In the north district area, from from which which it it is is separated separated by by district and and the the Bresse Bresse area, the any the Rhne. Rh6ne. In In the it adjoins adjoins Provence Frovence without without any south it the south clear-cut geographical demarcation demarcation line. line. Its Its north-eastern north-eastern clear-cut geographical border high, mountainous mountainous Isre Isdre border is is Savoy on the the edge edge of of the the high, Savoy on valley. geographical and valley. The and climatic climatic conditions conditions The diversity diversity of of geographical of produce. The region, explains of its its produce. The variety of explains the of this this region, the variety Rhne Rh6ne Valley Valley has has a a climate climate favourable favourable to to the the cultivation cultivation of of 305 305

- .",,"i:i;T'il;::"re,

(especially peaches peaches and and and fruit fruit trees trees (especially vegetables and spring spring vegetables famous Rhne Rh6ne bear the the famous its sunlit sunlit slopes slopes bear apricots), and and its apricots), found. trees are are to to be be found. south, olive olive trees vineyards. In In the the extreme extreme south, vineyards. great pasture for rearing great rich pasture for rearing of the Alps Alps provide rich The The valleys of yield excellent Here, too, too, are are excellent milk. milk. Here, which yield numbers of of cows cows which numbers gathered. are gathered. groves from chestnuts are Lyons chestnuts from which which the the Lyons the the groves yield an an abundant abundant crop. crop. which yield hazelnut trees trees which There There are are also also hazelnut prized. The pastures is The is highly prized. honey From from these these upland upland pastures The The honey places provide trout crayfish. In In sorne some places trout and and crayfish. lakes and rivers provide lakes and rivers common in in the the woods. woods. mushrooms are are common trufftes found, and and mushrooms are found, truffies are shows a a marked marked Regional cookery cookery shows CuHnary Culinary speciaHties specialities -- Regional gratin dishes. not only only with with These are are made made not predilection for predilection for gratin dishes. These porridge, potatoes but chopped porridge, also with with chopped macaroni and potatoes but also macaroni and crayfish tails. tails. cipes and and crayfish white swedes, cpes white beet, beet, swedes, Vienne enjoy enjoy a a and those those of of Vienne Daubes Daubes are favourite dishes dishes and are favourite this specialities of of this the specialities Among the considerable reputation. Among considerable reputation. quails; grillades marinire; thrush difarde; baby baby qua region ils ; thrush marinidre; dfarde; region are are grillades pdtis des salmis ofthrush; of thrush; des Alpes; Alpes; salmis withjuniper thrush pts berries; thrush with juniper berries; pickled truffies de Nyons; Nyons; and ar'd pickled lhrush; truffies de pickled the excellent excellent pickled thrush: the quails. Chabeuil Chabeuil quails. provide milk pastures provide milk alpine pastures The farms in in these these alpine The dairy dairy farms Saintwhich cheeses: Sassenage, Sassenage, Saintto manufacture manufacture cheeses: is used used to which is and the the white Marcellin, Briangon and white Pelvoux, Brianon Marcellin, Champolon, Champol6on, Pelvoux, (a cheese fermented buttennilk). buttermilk). cheese, made from from fermented tomme (a cheese made cheese, tomme pastry is pogne, an The is the the pogne, an immense immense regional pastry characteristic regional The characteristic pumpkin. tart lied in and in in autumn autumn with with pumpkin. filled with fruit fruit and tart fi in summer summer with pogne ln pogne is brioche. The The pogne of brioche. a kind kind of is a area, a a pOfine In the the Drme Drdme area, Among the the of high reputation. reputation. Among an especially especially high of Romans Romans enjoys enjoys an pognes and the sweet and meringues, meringues, the Valence pognes sweet specialities specialities are are Valence honey Voiron and and the the sweetmeats of of Voiron of Gap, Gap, the the sweelmeals honey tourons tourons of famous of Montlimar. Montelimar. famous nougul nougat of produce some highly Wines very highly some very slopes produce Rh6ne slopes Wines -- The The Rhne white reputed ch as Hermitage and and Crozes; Crozes; white of Hennitage such as those those of wines, su reputed wines, Die. and de Die. famous Clairette Clairette de the famous Hermitage and and the and red red Hermitage
DAUPHINE (A LA) given to several different different Name given to several DAUPHINE ( LA) -- Name potato preparation preparation dishes. for aa potato it is is used used for dishes. Most Most commonly commonly it paste. This made potato mixture This mixture and and chou chou paste. made from from duchess duchess potato (See POT mixture Adeep-fried. (See POTAinto balls balls and and deep-fried. mixture is is shaped shaped into TOES.) TOES.) DAUPHINOISE preparing potatoes potatoes (A LA) Method of of preparing DAUPHINOISE ( LA) -- Method (q.v.). (q.v.). DECANT. pour any liquid from from one cono6caNrsR -- To any liquid one conDECANT. DCANTER To pour

DECTZE DECIZE

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tainer tainer into ioto another. another. Wine Wine is is decanted decanted into into a a carafe carafe to to get get rid rd of of the the deposit deposit formed formed at at the the bottom bottom of of the the wine wine bottle. bottle. Decanting Decanting has has the the added added advantage advantage of of oxidising oxidising the the wine. wne. This This operation operation must must be be carried carried out out with with great great care, care, traintraining on the the carafe carafe to to make make sure sure that tbat the the wine wine is is clear, clear, ing a a light light on and and allowing allowing as as little litlle as as possible possible of of the the residue residue to 10 get get in. in. Butter is also said Butter is also said to to be be decantod decanted when when it it is is melted mehed and and purified purified by by being being transferred transferred from from one one container container to to another. aoother. DECIZE DECIZE - See See CHEESE. CHEESE. DECOC:TION. DECOCTION. n6cocnoN DCOCTION - Process Process of of boiling boiling a a solid solid for for a a period period in io water. water. Clear Clear soup soup is is a a decoction deeoction of of meat. meal. The The decoction deeoction of of vegetable vegetable matter matter has has the the disadvantage disadvantage of of sap sapplng ping many many of of its ils nutritive nutritive properties properties and and evaporating evaporating its its volatile elements. volatile elements.
body body by by the the disintegration disintegration of of its i15 elements. elements.

DECOMPOSITION. DECOMPOSITION. ofcorrlposlrroN DCOMPOSITION

Destruction Destructon of of a a

DEEP-FRYING. DEEP-FRYING. rnrruns FRITURE - Immersing Immersing foods foods in in a a large, large, deep deep pan pan of of boiling boiling fat. fat. The The French French term term for for deep-frying deep-fryng is is friture, friture, a a word word also also applied applied to to the the fat fat used used in in deep-frying. deep-frying. 11 the great kitchens of a hotel or restaurant, deep-frying In the great kitchens of a hotel or restaurant, deep-frying is is almost almost alwaya always carried carried out out successfully, successfully, but but this this cannot cannot bi be said of home home cooking, cooking, where where more more often often than than not not the the said of methods methods and and ingredients ingredients used used are are quite quite unsuitable. unsuitable.

In In hotel hotel kitchens kilchens a a large large number number of of different fats fats are available. available. These These are are chosen chosen with with care and used lavishlv. lavishly. In In private private households, households, the the fats faIs are are not not always aJways pure, pure, and, and, for for reasons reasons of of economy, economy, the the housewife housewife uses uses her ner fats fats too tao sparingly. sparingly. This This is is false false economy. eeonomy. Deep-frying Deep-frying can can only only be be successful successful if if a a great great deal deaJ of of fat fal is is used. used. The The more more fat fat the the less less wastg waste, since, since, where where too too little litlle fat fat is is used, used. it il is is absorbed absorbed into into the the food food and and the the pieces pieces stick stick to to one one another anolner and and become become soggy. soggy. Food Food frid fried in in abundant abundant fat fat is is crisp, crisp, firm firm and and cooked cooked all aU through. through. It It is is properly properly sealed sealed at at the the outset outset and and therefore therefore does does not not absorb absorb the the fat. fat. There There must must be be ample ample space space in in the the cooking eooking utensil utensil which which should snould be be made made in in a a single single piece, piece, of of sheet-iron sheet-iron or or hammered hammered copper. copper. As As it it is is gften often necessary necessary to to fry fry a a number number of of thinp things at al the the same same time, time, it it is is desirable desirable to to have have at at least least two two such such pans pans in Ln the tne kitchen. kitchen. One One of ofthese these should snould be be kept kept exclusively exclusively for for fish. fish. Other Other necessary necessary equipment equipment for for deep-frying deep-frying are are grids, grids, baskets baskets and and skimmers. skimmers. The The pan pan must must be be carefully carefully cleaned cleaned each eaeh time time it it is is used, u~, inside inside and and out. out. The The fat fat should should be be strained strained and and pourod poured back back into into the the pan pan for for storage. storage. Fats Fats for for deepfrying. deep-frying. LA LA cRArssE GRAISSE DE DE FRrruRE FRITURE- The The best best fat fat to to uso use in in all ail deep-frying deep-frying is is beef beef kidney kidney fat fat (suet), (suet), clarified c1arified and and purified purified with with scrupulous scrupulous care. care. This This fat fat is is odourless odourless and and can can be be heated hea ted up up to to 180'C. 180 a C. (350'F.) (350F,) without wi thout burnihg. burning. If If it il
306 306

DEEP-FRYING
carefully looked after, it can be used used over and and over again. is carefully A little veal fat can be added if desired, desired. but veal veal fat must A quickly. An not used alone, very quickly. not be be used alone, since since it it deteriorates very alternative household household fat fat can can be alternative mixing ox be prepared by by mixing kidney-fat with an equal equal quantity of lard lard or or oil, but but these with an mixtures, apart from from being being more expensive, cannot cannot be more expensive, mixtures, apart heated to to tbe high degree without the same same higb without burning, burning, nor beated nor can they be be used used again much. Mutton fat fat should should never they never be again as as much. used in in deep-frying, deep-frying, since since it it impregnates the the food food witb with a used taste of tallow. Among the fats fats which which are are suitable suitable for for frying frying certain Among the fish, fritters, which is suitable for fish, special foods are olive oil, wbich rice and cream croquettes, etc; and cream etc; c1arified clarified butter which which may rice be used used in in the flavoured sweets; the preparation be preparation of delicately flavoured and groundnut (peanut) oil and and and cereal oils. cheaper vegetable oils oils'include The cheaper inc1ude various types of cocoquite suitable in certain cases, but are nut butter. butter. They are are quite poor substitute for ox kidney fat. still a poor fat of duck, The fat duck, goose and and other other fat fat poultry, as as weil well as The butter for browning browning or in the preparalard, may be used with butter tion of roux, but ox kidney is more efficient. In his book, le le Cuisinier Cuisinier praticien, praticien, Reculet says: In amount of fat fat used frying must must always depend in frying 'The amount used in greater the upon the the size object to fried; the upon size of of the the object to be be fried; the greater liquid, the more it can hold hold the heat, and and it it is quantity of liquid, able to to counteract the cooling caused by by the the immersion imrhersion of able and the moisture given off during cooking. cooking. the object and desirable to have have two lots of of cooking cooking 'In a busy kitchen it is desirable fat, one one white white and fresh or at and one one brown. brown. The white fat fat is is fresh fat, used: it should should be used used for ail all deep-frying deep-frying except least little used: fish. The brown fat, darkened by long long service should be for fish. all cases. cases. used for fish, though good white fat is preferable in ail 'There are several signs to be seen when frying-oil becomes hot: l. A slight tremor on the surface. 1. characteristic smell. 2. A strong characteristic vapour given off by the fat. 3. A dry whitish vapour fat by adding a drop of water to it or Test the heat of the fat purified fat into it. If dipping any substance other than purified If the by dipping sound is is sharp sharp and and high, high, the the fat fat is is hot enough enough for for frying.' sound proportion of Vegetables and fruit, which which have have a a high high proportion and fruit, Vegetables fried in moderately fat. This This applies water in them, are are fried moderately hot fat. applies and other large foodstuffs particularly to potatoes. Fish and foodstuffs are

also deep-fried deep-frid in in moderately hot hot fat; fat; they also not be they would not through if they were sealed cooked right througb sealed at once by contact a beat. heat. with too intense a Very hot fat fat is is used used for foodstuffs which must be Very be sealed example, anything anything dipped dipped in in egg egg and and breadinstantly, for example, crumbs or batter. This also applies to precooked foods sucb such croquettes and very small foodstuffs which must be sealed as croquettes immediately. Souffl Souffi6 potatoes must must be dropped into into very immediately. be dropped hot fat after having first been cooked in moderately hot fat. theory ofdeep-frying: This was Brillat-Savarin's theOl"y of deep-frying: 'Not all liquids exposed to the action of of fire can absorb absorb the 'N ot allliquids same amount heat. Thus, amount of of heat. Thus, one one may may with with impunity impunity dip same into boiling spirits of wine, wine, where where one one would one's finger finger into boiling spirits and still more hastily from withdraw it hastily from brandy, and water, while water, while any any contact contact with with boiling boiling oil oil would cause cause an painful blister, since oil hold at blister, since oil can can hold at least least three intensely painful as much heat as as water. muchheat times as is as a a result of these differences differences that hot liquids act in 'It is different ways ways upon the foodstuffs which which are are immersed immersed in upon the different cookod in in water are are softened softened and and reduced reduced by them. Those cooked boiling; soups soups and and extracts are their extracts are their by-products. by-products. Foods boiling; hand, are compressed; fat, on the other hand, compressed; they take cooked in fat, a dark col colouring, and in the end become charred. on a ou ring, and 'In the the first first case, case, water dissolves dissolves and and absorbs 'In into itsetf absorbs into itself cookod in it; the inherent juices of the foods cooked it; in in the second, juices are preserved intact because because they are are insoluble in the juices If fried fried foods eventuaIJy eventually become desiccated it is because oil. If because heat has has evaporated ail to heat all the the moisture moisture in over-exposure to them. 'These two are known different 'These known by by different two methods of cooking cooking are names, and fat is and the the process of boiling foodstuffs in oil oil or fat asfrying. known as frying. 'The virtue of good frying lies lies in in a a kind kind of shell shell formed 'The prevents the fat round the food, food, which fat from penetrating it which prevents round seals the juices and seaJs inside. These juices are thus and juices inside. juices are thus cooked flavour of within the shell so that preserved. that the full flavour of the food is preserved. a sufficient degree of The boiling liquid must have attained a heat for for its action action to to be reach this point, heat be instantaneous; to reach it must be heated for quite a long time over a very hot flame. quick frying or for used only for very quick Olive oil should be used processes which which do do not heat. This is processes not require great heat. is because because olive oil, oil, if heated for a a long long time, develops olive develops an unpleasant taste which it is difficult to eradicate.' (Physiologie du Got.) Gofrt.\

Deep-frying basket Deep-frying (Dehillerin. Phot. Larousse) (Dehillerin. Larousse)

Electric deep-frying equipment, Electric deep-frying equipment, commercial commercial Photothique E.D.F.) E. D.F.) (Brigaud. Phot. Photothque

307

DEEP.FRYING DEEP-FRYING BASKET BASKET

DEEP-FRYING crurrn in which DEEP-FRYING BASKET. GRILLE - Wire utensil in food liftd can be b lifted Fried foods can food is contained for deep-frying. Fried out of the fat in this utensil.

joint of away sorne some of of the the fat fat which which forms forms a away a coating coating on on a of a joint meat. Ali All fat fat thus removed, whether thus removed, whether from from liquids liquids or meat. or meat meat of mutton or or lamb) lamb) must must be (except that of It can be clarified. clarified.It can then then be used used for for deep-frying. be
DEGRAISSIS in French fat DGRAISSIS Term used used in French cookery cookery for for the the fat - Term skimmed skimmed off off clear clear soup, soup, stock, stock, or This fat, fat, which which or sauce. sauce. This 'economy fat', must must be be clarified, is is known known in in France France as as 'economy fat', and and
is fat. is used to fry certain vegetables, or or as as deep-frying deep-frying fat.

DEHYDRATING. ofsttyDRArER DEHYDRATING. DSHYDRATER

(q.v.).

Synonym for drying drying Synonym for

Deer Deer on display in shop shop window window

DEER. cERF CERF DEER.

one year, year, and and from from then then on on becomes more and more tough. one It is is particularly particularly indigestible indigestible and even ev en poisonous poisonous when the the It brought down after a long long chase. chase. deer has has been been brought deer Ali methods methods of preparation preparation given given for for the the buck buck are All are applicable to to the the doe. doe. applicable

- Wild -

mammal whose whose flesh flesh is tender up up to mammal

DEFRUTUM - Latin term tenu used used by Apicius and and found found in DEFRUTUM to designate designate grape grape juice juice reduced reduced by evaporaevaporaancient recipes recipes to ancient tion to to a a third third of of its its volume. volume. This This juice juice was was widely used used in in tion Roman cookery. cookery. Roman DGLAAGE - Technical Technical term term in in French cookery cookery for the the DfGLACAGE
operation of of pouring pouring any any liquid liquid into into the pan pan in in which which food operation in butter butter or or other other fat. fat. has been been cooked cooked in has Wine is is used used for for this this purpose, purpose, heated heated and and stirred stirred in in the the Wine pan so so that that all ail the the concentrated concentrated juices juices are are incorporated incorporated into into pan it. White White or or brown brown stocks, stocks, cream, cream, vinegar, vinegar, or or alcohol alcohol can can it. also be be used. used. also

(breakDJEUNER DEJEUNER In France, France, the the first meal of of the the day day (breakfirst meal - In (i.e. little fast) dijeuner (i.e. fast) is is called called the the petit djeuner dijeuner or premier djeuner little or distinguish it or first first djeuner) dijeuner) to to distinguish it from from djeuner, dijeuner, which which is is taken in in the middle of the day. day. The The institution institution of of this midday meal back to to the meal dates this midday dates back the French Revolution. Revolution. In the eighteenth the main meal century the main meal eighteenth century, (dinner) was of of the the day, day, dner diner (dinner) was taken first at at midday midday and and taken first later p.m. The djeuner, later at I p.m. at 1 dijeuner, taken taken upon waking, waking, consisted consisted of a a soup or coffee with milk. The Constituent bly began its deliberations Assembly Constituent Assem deliberations at at about about midday, to p.m. It was, at about 6 6 p.m. therefore, necessary necessary to rise at was, therefore, to change the dinner hour hour to to 6 p.m., and and since since the the members could not sit sit fasting, fasting they could not they were were obliged obliged to to take take a a second second breakfast at at II I I a.m. a.m. This This second second djeuner dijeuner was was more more subsubstantial than the first and the first and included eggs and and cold cold meat. meat. According ( I 822-1 896) According to the the Goncourt Goncourt brothers, Edmond (1822-1896) and (1830-1870), it Handy who and Jules Jules (1830-1870), it was was Mme. Mme. Handy who invented invented fork fork luncheons, luncheons, by setting setting out cutlets, cutlets, kidneys and and sausages sausages on a her caf on a buffet buffet in in her caf6 on on the the boulevards the opposite the boulevards opposite Comdie-Italienne, pressing her and pressing Com6die-Italienne, and her clients clients to to take take these these savouries savouries with their meal. Nowadays, in in France, France, djeuner has largely largely usurped usurped the ddjeuner has the place of the original dner. place lt includes diner. It includes the the same same dishes dishes and and is eaten later and is and later in the day. day. in the The experts maintain maintain that The experts that a a substantial dinner dinner does not does not necessarily cause provided that restless night, night, provided that there necessarily cause a a restless there is is a a enough interval interval between long enough dinner and and going to and between dinner to bed, bed, and because too large a makes work in the because too large a lunch makes diffcult in the afterafterwork difficult noon, more and and more people people are habit are following the the British British habit of having a substantial breakfast followed followed by a a light light lunch.

pretentious matres in the pretentious maitres d'htel d'h6tel in the drawing drawing up up of of their their menus. menus. Having no no precise precise culinary Having culinary meaning, meaning, the the word word (which implies delectability), delectability), is implies is exploited exploited for for its very vagueness, its very vagueness, implying in in ad vance that implying advance that the the dish dish offered offered is is delectable, delectable, though, in fact, ail is to to put though, put the patron on all it it does does is the wary wary patron his on his guard.

DLICE strictly means means a a DELICE This word, word, which which in in French French strictly - This certain type type of pastry, is is nowadays certain of pastry, nowadays misused misused by some by sorne

DGLACER - Technical Technical term term in in French French cookery cookery for for the the DfGLACER
dilution of of the the concentrated concentrated juices juices in in a a pan pan in in which which meat, meat, dilution or fish fish has has been been roasted, roasted, braised braised or or fried. fried. poultry, game game or poultry, White or or red red wine, wine, Madeira Madeira or or some sorne other other heavy heavy wine, wine, clear clear White and sometimss sometimt;s cream cream are are used. used. soup, stock stock and soup, DGORGER - Term Term used used in in French French cookery cookery meaning meaning to to DEG{ORGER of time time in in cold cold water water to to free free soak food food for for a a variable variable length length of soak it from from impurities. impurities. Thus, Thus, calves' calves' heads heads and and sweetbreads sweetbreads are are it soaked in in water water to to make make them them very very white. white. soaked The term term is is also also used used of of the the operation operation of of clearing clearing ChamChamThe pagne bottles bottles of of the the impurities impurities containod contained in in the the wine. wine. pagne

DEMI - In In English the term term 'ha Ir is glass of 'half DEMI a glass English the is used used of of a of beer beer holding approximately approximately 3 3 dl. dl. (t (| pint, pint, li holding lf cups). cups). France, a a demi demi is is a glass of In France, In a glass holding about of beer beer also also holding about
3 dl. dl. (+ pint, pint, 3

<t It cups) cups) which get approxil| means that which means that patrons get approximately three demis to to a a litre. litre. (See (See TANKARD mately thre, demis TANKARD OR OR BEERBEERGLASS.) GLASS.)
DEMI-DEUIL G ( DEMI-DEUtr lated, means means 'in 'in lated,
sauce. sauce. Food cooked cooked in in Food and garnished garnished with with and this way way is is dressed dressed with suprAme sauce sauce this with suprme truffies. trumes.

LA) - This (which, literally literally transterm (which, transLA) - This term half-mourning') is is applied mainly to to half-mourning') applied mainly poultry and and veal veal sweetbreads poached poultry poached in a white sweetbreads braised braisd in a white

DGRAISSER - Term Term in in French French cookery cookery meaning meaning to to skim skim DEGRAISSER off excess excess fat fat which which forms forms on on the the surface surface of of a a liquid liquid (clear (clear off soup, sauce, sauce, etc.). etc.). The The term term is is also also used used to to describe describe cutting cutting soup,
308 308

DEMIDOFF - Name of a princely Russian DEMIDOIF a princely Russian farnily. family. Prince Prince - Name of
Anatole Demidoff, Demidoff, who who married married Princess Princess Mathilde, Anatole Mathilde, daughter daughter of King King J6rdme Jrme Bonaparte Bonaparte (but (but was was soon soon divorced), divorced), was of was one one of the the most most celebrated celebrated gastronomes gastronomes of of the of the Second Second Empire. Empire.

DEMI-ESPAGNOLE DEMI-ESPAGNOLE

(Boucher) d6jeuner (Boucher) Le petit djeuner

preparing large For this this reason, reason, an an elaborate method For method of of preparing poultry was (See CHICKEN, called after after bim. him. (See poultry was called CHICKEN, Chicken Demidoff.) DEMI-ESPAGNOLE Car6me means DEMI-ESPAGNOLE - By demi-espagnole, Carme what today is called called demi-glace (see SAUCE). SAUCE). espagnole into a 'Pour half the grande espagnole a saucepan with the clear chicken soup to which have been of good c1ear same volume of added the the trimmings and truffies.' added trimmings of mushrooms and truffies.' Carme Car6me preparation ofthis instructions for the preparation of this soup: adds instructions 'This consomm consomm6 is is made with the carcases 'T:lis carcases and giblets of (too much salt good stock (too chickens, moistened salt must 2 chickens, moistened with good be particularly avoided). avoided). Next, Next, add add a a carrot, carrot, a a couple be couple of
309

simmer. onions, and, after having skimmed it carefully, let it simmer. About 2 2 hours hours later, later, strain strain it it through through muslin or sieve About muslin or without pressure. Leave to to stand, stand, and and strain strain thoroughly. thoroughly. without pressure. Leave and stir with a a special 'Put the saucepan on a a strong heat and bubbling ail all over. espagnole en spoon until the liquid is bubbling espagnob wood wooden remove skim carefully carefully and rem Move it to the corner of ove of the stove; skim a full 45 minutes. every trace of fat. fat. In this state, leave it for a and replace replace the stock on on the strong heat. Skim off the the fat, fat, and it from spoon to prevent it a wooden Stir the espagnole wood en spoon espagnole with a of the boiling which will will otherwise happen happen because of boiling over, over, which possible as far far as as possible to preserve very preserve as very rapid rapid boiling necessary to the essence which is the sauce. a c1oth.' cloth.' reduced, strain strtrin through a When it is is suitably suitably reduced,

DEMI-GLACE DEMI-GLACE
sauce made made by and skimDEMI-GLACE by boiling and - Brown sauce estoufade, and mixing in wrute white stock, estouffade, ming ming espagnole sauce and clear soup. or c1ear Madeira or sherry. This sauce sauce is is usually usuallv flavoured flavoured with with Madeira sherrv. This SAUCE.) UCE.) (See SA especially prescribed; not too much meat or fatty foods and especially not too much bread. Sometimes Sometimes a diet is not a restorative diet is inditoo much to the the type type of cated. Each Each case case must be treated according to be treated cated. person has, how efficient his his digestive digestive prodermatitis the the person dermatitis has, how ofhealth. cesses are, and his general state of health. used in cookery for for the removal DROBER DEROBER - French term used of the skins of shelled broad beans. and other also mean It mean the peeling of potatoes and It can the peeling of potatoes can also vegetables.

DEMI-JOHN. bottle.

DAME-JEANT.IE DAME-JEANNE

glass Larse earthenware or or glass - Large

DEMI-SEL CHEESE. - See CHEESE.

can mean DEMI-TASSE a demi-tasse can mean either a DEMI-TASSE ln France a - In small cup or a cup of of black coffee. very smaU

French cookery cookery denoting denoting the the reDNERVER in French DENERVER - Term in gristle, etc. etc. from of tendons, tendons, membranes, membranes, gristle, from meat, moval moval of poultry, game, etc.

DEMER (EN) sometimes called en denier DENIER - Potato crisps are sometimes in France because because they are are cut cut in the shape of a a coin. in coin. (See POTATOES.) POTATOES.) neNsruirnr -- Instrument DENSIMETER. DENSIMTRE Instrument designed DENSIMETER. designed to measure the density of liquids. Anometers and measure the density alcoholoand alcoholometers are are densimeters densimeters constant constant in weight but variable in meters in weight but variable glass rod volume, made made in the form a hollow glass rod weighted in the form of a volume, rod sinks sinks into the liquid and with lead or mercury. The rod and the recorded by means of a is recorded scale marked on the side. density is a scale a great many many types of densimeter for for different different There are a types of liquid. These are usually sold with conversion tables indicating the allowances allowances to to be made for for temperature, and readings to to be converted to to other scales. enabling the readings

D6saugiers M.-A. Dsaugiers (1772-1821) (1772-1827)

DENSIY. DENSI"I osNsrrE Degree of consistence DENSITY. consistence of a a body body or - Degree of the mass mass to the volume, substance, measured by the ratio of the quantity of matter in a unit unit of bulk. bulk. In In practice, in a or by the to the this is the ratio of the weight of a a volume of a a body body to trus of the same volume of weight of of distilled water at a temperature (39.2"F.). The 4'C. (39.2F.). of 4C. with special The rneasuring of density density with of measuring of readily to assess the alcohol instruments makes it possible readily to assess of a liquid, the sugar content of content of of a syrup, syrup, etc.
(Wolves'fang) in France DENT -DE-LOUPS (Wolves' fang) DENT-DE-LOUPS - Name given in of decorative motif motif used to several kinds of used in the presentation of dishes: dishes: of l. Slices of sandwich bread cut into triangles and and fried friod in 1. garnish a number of butter or oil. These are used to garnish butter of different different dishes. of jelly, 2. Triangles cut out of strips of 2. jelly, used used to garnish cold dishes. Mediterranean fish. fish. The ih" common opNrf DENTEX. DENTEX. DEN"I ro^ o, dentex - Mediterranean large-eyed a length of up to I m. m. (40 inches); the large-eyed can to 1 can attain a (20 inches). to about about 50 50 cm. cm. (20 inches). Prepare Prepare as as for dentex dmtex grows to sea bream (q.v.). p6NurRrrroN Nutritional disorder that DENUTRITION. DNUTRITION - Nutritional occurs when when deassimilation exceeds exceeds assimilation. assimilation. occurs

Df,SAUGIERS Marc-Antoine Dsaugiers, D6saugiers, a DSAUGIERS a talented - Marc-Antoine (Yar) in satirical songs, was was born at at Fr6jus in 1772 writer of satirical Frjus (Var) in 1827. 1827. and died in Paris in Drlsaugiers, immortal author author of of M. et Mme. Denis, can be Dsaugiers, gastronomic poets, for he numbered among among the he wrote wrote a numbered the gastronomic poets, for the table. table. Sorne great many joys of the many songs extolling the joys Some of forefathers' these these songs are still sung today, when, as in our forefathers' singing a song over time, each guest at table takes his turn at singing the dessert. dessert. He He was was secretary secretary of of the the Caveau Caveau moderne, moderne, a the gastronomic and and also also somewhat bacchanaFrench literary, gastronomic bacchanahis will, in speaking, in society. He wrote wrote rus in a a manner of speaking, lian society. (Eating Song). his Chanson d manger (Eating the la st couplet of his last
me frappe Je frappe Je veux que la mort me Au milieu d'un grand repas; Qu'on Qu'on m'enterre sous la nappe Entre quatre larges plats, Et que sur ma tombe on mette

inscription : Cette courte inscription: Ie premier polte pote Ci-gt Ci-gtt le Mort d'une indigestion. indigestion.

n6srtnrm. grain or remove excess oil DE-OIL. DSHUILER To remove oil from from grain - To some chemical process. flour, either by pressure or by sorne
DERBY preparing large poultry (see CHICK- Method of preparing d la Derby). It was devised by M. Jean Giroix EN, Chicken la Derby). when he was in charge of the kitchens of the Hotel de Paris at Monte-Carlo.

1 I pray that death may strike me middle of of a a large meal. ln In the middle 1 I wish to be buried under the tablec10th tablecloth Between four large dishes. I desire that this short inscription And 1 engraved on my tombstone Should be engraved Here lies the first poet Ever to die of indigestion. indigestion.
actors of of the ComdieDESESSARTS DESESSARTS of the greatest actors Com6die- One of in 1740 1740 and at Langres Franaise in his his day. Langres in Frangaise in day. He was was born at also a celebrated celebratod gastronome. died at Barges Bareges in in 1793. He was also I'Histoire des 'Desessarts,' says says Emile Emile Deschanel Deschanel in 'Desessarts,' in l'Histoire his size, size, but but he an appetite worthy of rus comdiens, 'had an he was comidiens,'had a connoisseur. He was was very witty. witty. A good dinner sent also a the qualities his spirits soaring. He would would analyse elegantly the dish, and, and, in in order order to to describe describe them more vividly, of each dish, amusin gly bizarre words. coin amusingly would coin

psRMlros DERMATffIS. DERMATOSE Skin infection. infection. Such Such comDERMATITIS. - Skin plaints have have led led to food restrictions to food restrictions because certain certain foods etc.) cause cause skin skin eruptions (strawberries, shellfish, etc.) eruptions in in sorne some people. people ought ought to to avoid whatever upsets them people. These people or endeavour to desensitise themselves but it is unnecessary unnecessary to to aU all sufferers from from skin disorders. to forbid such foods to In most dermatitis a a moderate diet is is generally ln most cases of dermatitis
310

DEVILLED DEVILLED 'If 'If his his fellow-diners fellow-diners were were amiable and good trenchennen, trenchermen, the the sybarite sybarite gaiety gaiety of of Desessarts Desessarts would wou Id express express itself itself lyrically lyrically in in poetic poetic phrases phrases such as as "the "the boar, boar, prince prince of of the forests, forests,
pdti".' pt".'
whose whose ferocious ferocious pride pride is is humbled hum bled when when he is is baked baked in a
Desessarts Desessarts was, was, like like all ail gourmets, gourmets, a splendid fellow. His His talent talent was was as as straightforward as as his his character. character. Infectious Infectious gaiety bonhomie were were distinctive traits traits both both of of gaiety mixed mixed with bonhomre his his art art and and his his disposition. disposition.

DESICCATION. DESICCATION. nessrccArroN DESSICCATION - Process Process of of drying drying or dehydrating dehydrating foodstuffs. foodstuffs. (See (See PRESERVATION PRESERVATION OF OF FOOD.) FOOD.)
DESSERT DESSERT - Last Last course course of of a meal. meal. Nowadays, Nowadays, in France, France, dessert dessert comprises comprises cheese, cheese, sweet sweet dishes dishes (which (which were were formerly formerly served served before before the the dessert) dessert) and and fruit. fruit. In ln former former times times at at great great banquets, banquets, dessert, dessert, which which was was the the

fifth course course of the meal, was often presented in magnificent magnificent style. Large set pieces fashioned in pastry, described described often and in great detail by Car6me, Carme, whose accounts accounts are are accomaccompanied by splendid illustrations, were placed placed on the table at the beginning of of the meal. These owed more to architecture architecture than than to to the the art art of cooking, and and had had a a purely decorative function. function. Just before berore the sweet sweet course, course, a multitude of sweets were elegantly arranged on the table with the set pieces, for every every ceremonial table table was laid in accordance accordance with with a detailed plan. The dishes had to harmonise with gold plate, crystal, magnificent magnificent baskets baskets of fruit, fruit, and and the the tall taU candelabra: candelabra: a magnificent magnificent spectacle. Flowers decoration. Fruit too, is Flowers are used today for table decoration. often placed placed on the table before before the beginning beginning of the meal and and this, too, too, contributes to its its embellishment. embellishment. Sweets, hot or cold, are served as dessert after the cheese cheese

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Dessert Dessert (after (aCterCarme, Carme, /e le Confturier Confiturier royal) royal)

in France. France. Although Although less Jess ostentatious ostentatious than than in in former former times, times, in modem desserts desserts are are no no less less sumptuous sumptuous or or succulent. succulent. modern

DESSERTE - French French term term for for food food that that has has been been prepared prepared DESSERTE but not not used. used. In In certain certain French French restaurants, restaurants, such such food food (apart (apart but from a a few few items) items) belongs belongs to to the the waiters. waiters. from
DETREMPE DTREMPE - Technical Technical term term in in confectionery confectionery meaniqg meanin~ a a mixture of of flour fiour and and water water to to be be used used in in the the preparation preparation of of mixture
pastries. pas tries. For example, example, faire faire Ia la ddtrempe dtrempe du du feuilletage feuilletage is is the the term tem For used for for making making the the flour-and-water fiour-and-water mixture mixture of offlaky fiaky pastry. pastry. used

DEVILFISH. nLc,sLE DIABLE DE DE MER MER - Anglerfish, Anglerfish, found found on on the the DEVILFISH. North North American American and and European European sides sides of of the the Atlantic. Atlantic. It It is is also also sometimes sometimes known known as as sea-frog, sea-frog, miller's miller's thumb, thumb, and
bull-head. bull-head. In In the the U.S.A. U .S.A. it it is is known known as asgoose goosefish, fish, all-mouth all-mouth monkfish, monkfish,
andfishing fishingfrog. frog. and

DEVILLED. A L,c, LA DIABLE DIABLE - Name Name given given to to a a method method of of DEVILLED. preparation, especially especially suitable suitable for for poultry. poultry. The The bird bird is is slit slit preparation,
Modern Moderndessert dessertin inFrance France (O r.ft v r e r ie CChristofle) (Orfvrerie hr i s t ofl e)

cooking it it is is sprinkled sprinkled with with fresh fresh breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and After cooking After browned under under the the grill. grill. browned
311 3ll

open along along the the back, back, spread spread out out flat, fiat, seasoned, seasoned, and and grilled. grilled. open

DEXTRIN DEXTRIN
Poultry cooked cooked in in this this way way should should be served with beserved with Diable Diable Poultry (see SA sauce (see SAUCE). sauce UCE). gum). DEXTRINE DEXTRIN (British nrxrRrNE - - Powdery Powdery substance, substance, @ritish gum). DEXTRIN yellowish, obtained white or or slightly slightly yeIJowish, obtained by by splitting splitting starch. starch. white When mixed mixed with with water water it it forms forms aa thick, paste. thick, viscous viscouspaste. When DIABLOTINS - -Slices Slicesof ofFrench French bread (]inch) breadabout about55mm. mm.(i DIABLOTINS inch) thick,covered coveredwith withaa mixture mixtureof ofthick thickbchamel bichamelsauce thick, sauce gratedcheese flavoured with withgrated pepper,sprinkled cheeseand andcayenne flavoured cayennepepper, sprinkled gratedParmesan withgrated Parmesan cheese cheeseand andbrowned. with browned.They Theyare areserved served with soup. soup. with paper cases Chocolates sold soldin inpaper casesand Chocolates andaccompanied accompanied by byaa motto are arealso alsocalled calleddiablotins. diablotins. motto

DEXTROSE -- Scientific glucose, so Scientific name name for for glucose, so caHed called DEXTROSE polarisation, it because in in polarisation, it causes causes deviation deviation to to the the right. right. because
DIABETES. DIABTE onntrr -- Serious Serious nutritional nutritional disorder. disorder. There There DIABETES. are two two main main types types of of diabetes; diabetes; aa mild mild forro form which which does does not not are prevent the the sufferer from leading provided that sufferer from leading a a normal normal life life provided that prevent he keeps to a a special special diet, keeps to diet, and and aa severe severe forro form which which requires requires he medical treatment. treatment. medical All diabetics diabetics require require a a special special diet. diet. Ali Cooking for for diabetics. diabetics. CUISINE cursrNE DES oes DlABTlQUES ohsirreuEs -- Once Once an an Cooldng intelligent cook cook knows quantity of knows the the quantity of carbohydrates carbohydrates the the intelligent (that is, diabetic is is allowed allowed (that is, f10ury floury and and leguminous leguminous food) food) he he diabetic can use the ration ration in use the in many many ways ways in in order order to to vary vary the the diet diet can pleasant and and make it pleasant make it and appetising. appetising. He He will will avoid avoid thickened thickened and sauces and and any any food food where pulses are where f10ur flour or or pulses are used in large large used in sauces amounts. Also Also to to be be avoided avoided is is the the excessive excessive use use of of salt, salt, amounts. which would would only only increase pronounced thirst increase the the already already pronounced thirst of of which the diabetic, diabetic, and and especially especially the use of of sugars. the use sugars. the

DIAPHRAGM. COFFRE corrnn- -Part Partof DIAPHRAGM. ofthe thebody bodyof ofman manor orbeast beast whichcontains contains the theribs. ribs. The TheFrench French word which wordcoffre coffreis isapplied applied to the thecarapace carapace of to ofcertain certain shellfish. shellfish.
DIASTASIS. oIl.sr.lsE- - Ferment DIAST ASIS. DIASTASE Ferment which whichdevelops grain developsin ingrain and tubers tubers at germination. This and atthe themoment moment of ofgermination. This liquefies liquefiesthe the starchand andturns starch itinto turns it intosugar. sugar.

DICING. COUPER coupER EN rNDS ors- - Cutting DICING. Cutting various variousfoodstuffs, foodstuffs,for for example, ham, ham,artichoke artichoke hearts, example, hearts, truffles, truffies, mushrooms, mushrooms, etc. etc. into cubes cubes or or squares. squares. into
(A LA) DIEPPOISE DIEPPOISE ( LA) -- Method Method of preparing seawater of preparing seawater fish. fish. Fish Fish ri la garnishedwith ladieppoise dieppoise is iscooked inwhite cooked in whitewine, wine, garnished with mussels mussels and and shelled shelled freshwater freshwater crayfish crayfishtails, tails, and andmasked masked with white wine wine sauce sauce made with aa white made with with the thecooking cooking stock stockof ofthe the (See BRILL, fish mussels (See fish and and mussels BRiLL, Bri/l Brill dla ladieppoise.) dieppoise.)
DIET. DIET. RGIME nncnc ALIMENTAIRE ALTMENTATRE - - Methodical Methodical and and reasoned reasoned use use of of food food in in health health as as in in sickness. sickness. DIETETICS. DIETETICS. DITTIQUE o#r6rreus - - The The study study of of everything everythingconconcerned cerned with with diet diet and and ail all that that relates relates to to the the therapeutic therapeutic use useof of food. food. Dietetics Dietetics can can be be defined defined as asthe the art art of of nourishing nourishing oneoneself self naturally. naturally. The The importance importance of of aa sensible, sensible, regulated, regulated, balanced balanced diet diet has has been proved where been amply amply proved health is where health isconconcerned. cerned.

DHBLE -- Cookery Cookery utensil porous utensil made made in in the the forro form of of two two porous DIABLE pans, one earthenware pans, one of of which which fits fits onto onto the the other other as as a a lid. lid. earthenware (potatoes, chestnuts) Some vegetables vegetables and and fruit fruit (potatoes, chestnuts) can Sorne can be be cooked in pan without in this this type type of of pan without liquid. liquid. cooked In France France a a sheet-metal sheet-metal draught draught device ln device for for solid solid fuel fuel cookers is is also also known as as a a diable. diable. cookers
(A LA) DIABL,E ( LA)See DEVILLED. DIABLE - See

Demt-johns and and diables diables (lr'lcolas) (Nicolas) Demi-johns

#
312 3t2

DIGESTER DIGESTER
The scienoe of dietetics is relatively new and unfamiliar. science of dietetics is relatively new and unfamiliar. ItThe is still mainly applied to invalid diets, diets for chronic Il is still mainly applied to invalid diets, dieL~ for chronic diseases such as diabetes, rheumatism, etc. and slimming diseases such as diabetes, rheumatism, etc. and slimming just diets. But it is as important for dietetics to be used in diets. But it is just as important for dietctics to be used in the service of the healthy. To feed oneself badly badlymeans means the service of the healthy. To feed oneself depriving the body of nutrients that it requires, oi providdepriving the body of nutrients that it requires, or providing these in over-generous or insufficient amounts, piactices ing thesc in over-generous or insufficient amounts, practices which often lead to disease and disorders. which often lead to disease and disorders. It is important, therefore, to know the body's quantitative Il is important, therefore, to know the body's quantitative qualitative requirements, and to discover what perand and qualitative requirements, and to discover what percentage of vital elements are present in the various foods. centage of vital elements are present in the various foods. With this knowledge it is possible to compile diets suited to With this knowledge it is possible to compile diets suited to various needs. various needs. Food is made percentages up of certain of three three energising energising _Food is made up of certain percentages of elements: proteids, glucides and lipids. Proteids (proteins) elements: proteids, glucides and lipids. Proleis (pro teins) are the basic constituents of all living cells. There is no life are the basic constituents of ail living cells. Thel'e is no life without proteins. They should account for to 14 per cent without proteins. They should account for Il to 14 pel' cent of the total calorie intake. Carbohydrates produce the sugars. of the total calorie intake. Carbohydrates produce the sugars. Carbohydrates should account for about half the food eiten Carbohydrates should account for about half the food eaten darly. Lipids (fats) have an important role in the diet. A daily. Lipids (fats) have an important role in the die!. of 40 g. (ltoz.) should be eonsumed eachday,25 g. giniTury of minimum 40 g. (1 oz.) should be consumed each day, 25 g. (l oz.) of which should be animal fat. (l oz.) of which should be animal fa t. Mineral salts such as sodium chloride, calcium, phosMineral salts such as sodium chloride, calcium, ph osphorus, etc. are present in food and these, too, are indispensph orus, etc. are psent in food and these, too, are indispensable elements, as are trace elements such as zinc, iron, copper, able elements, as are trace elements such as zinc, iron, coppel', etc., and vitamins. Approximately 25 g. (l oz.) mineral-salts etc., and vitamins. Approximately 25 g. (1 oz.) minerai salts should be consumed daily, half of which should be sodium should be consumed daily, half of wbich should be sodium salts. salts. Vitamins play a very important r6le. The table below Vitamins play a very important rle. The table below indicates the properties and sources of the principal vitamins. indicates the properties and sources of the principal vitamins.
.Plays an important role in EE Plays an important role in fertility, pregnancy, pregnancy, sterility sterility fertility, andmuscular muscularbalance balancein in and rats.Uncertain Uncertain function function rats. inhuman humanbeings. beings. in

Greenvegetables, vegetables, Green germ,pork cerealgerm, pork cereal fat,meat, meat,fat. fat. fat,

K Anti-haemorrhagic Anti-haemorrhagic vitamin vitamin Green Green vegetables, vegetables, K n@essaryfor for the thecoagulation coagulation salads, salads,fruit. fruit. necessary theblood. blood. Ils Itsfunction function .ofthe ,of isthe theformation formationof prothrombin. of prothrombin. is
problem that The problem that faces faces the thedietitian dietitian is (accordisto to calculate calculate (accordThe ing to to the the situation, situation, temperament temperament and and tastes tastes of person of the the person ing (in calories) concerned) the the energy energy value value (in calories) of given food. ofa food, as as concerned) a given well as as its its richness richness in in appropriate appropriate vitamins. vitamins. Il It is is then then aa case case weil 6f combining combining the the various various foods foods so so as to obtain as to obtain aa coherent, coherent, f balanced, pleasant pleasant diet. diet. In In order order to to calculate calculate calorie calorie requirerequirebalanced, ments we must bear we must bear in in mind mind that: that: ments g. protein protein produces produces 4 4 calories, calories, 1 g. g. carbohydrate carbohydrate produces produces 4 4 calories, calories, 1 g. g. Iipids produces about lipids produces about 9 9 calories. calories. 1 g. Each individual's individual's needs, needs, where where calories calories are are concerned, concerned, Each v-aries.considerably according to to the the work work he he does, does, his his age, age, varies considerably according the climate climate in in which which he he lives, lives, etc. general rule As a etc. As a general rule it iiis the is recognised that that a a man man of physical activity of average average physical activity requires requires recognised 2,800 calories calories daily, daily, a a woman, woman, 2,200. 2,200. Vitam Vitamin 2,800 in requirements quantitative and are quantitative qualitative. and qualitative. are

ll

WEIGHT AND AND CALORIE CALORIE EQUIVALENTS EQUIVALENTS WEIGHT

Food Food
(average size) Steak (average Steak Cutlet (l slice) Ham (l Ham (l leg) Chicken (1 Chicken Egg Sole (average Sole (average size) Fresh Fresh herring herring (large) (large) Potato Potato (egg-sized) Carrots Noodles Rice Gruyire Gruyre cheese Apple Pear Pear (large) Banana Orange Lemon Oil Oil (l (1 tablespoon) Sugar Sugar (l (llump)

Weight We igh 1

Calories Calories

A A Bl
BI

Vitamins Vitamins
Vitamin of growth. Strengthens resistance to illness. Vital for the resistance to illness. Vital for the production of retinal pigment. production of retinal pigment. Metabolism of glucides. Factor of appetite and the balance of

Sources Sources
eggs, carrots, eggs, carrots, spinach, cabbage, spinach, cabbage. fish fish liver liver oil. oil.

Vitamin of growth. Strengthens Butter, milk, cheese, Butter, milk, cheese,

Metabolism of glucides.

Factor

of appetite and the balance of the nervous system. Lack of this the nervous system. Lack of this vitamin causes vitamin causes beriberi.

beriberi.

Yeasts, Yeasts, wheatgerm, wheatgerm, sugar, sugar, bread, bread, meat, meat, dried dried vegetables, vegetables, green vegetables. green vegetables.

92 Vitamin of general equilibrium. Cereals, liver, liver, eggs, eggs, Vitamin of general equilibrium. Cereals,
Dz Nutritional and
Nutritional and metabolic regulator. regulator.

metabolic

milk, milk, fish, fish, meat. meat.

B B

Anti-pellagrous vitamln called nicotine acid. called nicotine acid. Essential for the release Essential for the release ofenergy from food. of energy from food.

Anti-pellagrousvitamin

Yeasts, Yeasts, cereal cereal gerln, germ, dried d ried vegetables, vegetables, meat, fish. meat, fish.

size) 120 g. (approx. (approx. 41 120 g. 4j 0Z oz.) .) Cutlet ( ,, 2 2- oz.) 50 g. oz.) e. ( slice) 50 g. 2 oz.) oz.) 2 g. ( ( ,, 50 leg) ( ,, 4 100 g. 4 oz.j oz.) 100 g. ( Egg 50 g. 2 oz.) 50 g. ( ( ,, 2 oz.S size) 100 100 g. 4 4 oz.) oz.) g. ( ( ,, 150 5 5 oz.) oz.) 150 g. g. ( ( ,, (egg-sized) 50 2 oz.) 50 g. g. ( ( ,, 2 oz.) Carrots 2AO 7 7 oz.) oz.) 200 g.( g. ( ,, Noodles 200 7 200 g. g. ( ( ,, 7 oz) oz.) Rice 150 5 oz.) 150 g. g. ( ( ,, 5 oz.) cheese 30 I1 oz.) oz.) 30 g. g. ( ( ,, Apple 150 S oz.) 150 g. g. ( ( ,, 5 oz.) (large) 200 7 oz.) 200 g. g. ( ( ,, 7 oz.) Banana 80 3 80 g. g. ( ( ,, oz.) 3 oz.) Orange 150 5 oz.) 150 g. g. ( ( ,, 5 oz.) Lemon 100 4 oz.) 100 g. g. ( ( ,, 4 oz.) tablespoon) 15 15 g. g. ( ( ,, OZ.) 1 or.) * lump) 5 5 g. g. ( ( ,, oz.) I! oz.)
CALORIE CALORIEREQUIREMENTS REQUIREMENTS

300 150
175 175

200 200 80 g0 80 2OO 200 40 90 150 150 150 150 l2O 120 90 90 l2O 120 g0 80 75 75 50 50 tZO 120 20 20

B' Encourages the synthesis of Bu Encourages the synthesis of C C

Liver, fish. proteins and helps in the growth Liver, fish. pro teins and helps in the growth and equilibrium of the red and equilibrium of the red corpuscles. corpuscles. Anti-scorbutic vitamin. Fruit, Fruit, vegetables. vegetables. Anti-scorbutic vitamin. Aids vascular resistance and vascular resistance and strengthens resistance to strengthens resistance to infection. Hastens the healing infection. Hastens the healing of scars. Lack of this vitamin of scars. Lack of this vitamin causes scurw. causes scurvy.

Activity AClivily Intense Average Slighi Intense Average Slight

Aids

Man Man Woman Woman

Child: Child:up upto to l0 10years years

4500 4500 3800 3800

2800 2800 2200 2200

2000 2000 3000 3000 2600 2600 3600 3600 240,0 2400

2200 2200 1800 1800

b9I boy up 15 y"ur, upto 1015 years {{ I girl girl

t

upto2oy."r, {bOY u p to 20 years [b9I

eirl girl

D D

Concerned with absorption Concerned with absorption and laying down of calcium and laying down of calcium and potassium in the bones. and potassium in the bones. Important for children for Important for children for bone formation and bone formation and prevention of rickets. prevention of rickets.

fish. fish.

Milk, Milk,butter, butter,eggs, eggs,

DIGESTBR. DIGESTER. DrcEsrErJR DIGESTEliR-- Piece Pieceof ofapparatus apparatus which whichworks works on on the t he pressure pressure cooker cooker principle. principle. It It can can be be hermetically hermetically sealed sealedand and isisfitted fitted with withaasafety safetyvalve, valve,enabling enablingfood food to tobe be subjected boiling subjectedto tohigher highertemperatures temperaturesthan thanthat thatof of boilingwater. water. (See (SeePRESSURE PRESSURECOOKER.) COOKER.)
313 313

DIGESTIBILITY
DIGESTffiILITY. DIGESTIBILIT6 DIGESTIBILIT - The The assimilability assinlability of of DIGESTIBILITY. foodstuffs into into the the digestive digestive system. system. The The layman layman recognises recognises foodstuffs produces no no unpleasant unpleasant sensation sensation in in food as as digestible digestible if if it it produces food the course course of of digestion. digestion. To To the the expert, expert, digestibility digestibility is is deterdeterthe by the the proportion proportion of of elements elements in in food food which which c4n Can be be mined by mined thoroughly assimilated assirnilated into into the the human human organism. organism. thoroughly This portion portion is Is variable variable in in different different foods foods and and depends depends This also upon upon the the state state in in which which they they are are eaten, eaten, upon upoa the the manner manner also in which which they they are are cooked, cooked, upon upon the the amount amount eaten eaten and and upon upon in the other other foods foods eaten eaten at at the the same sa me time, time, and and is is assessed assessed only only the on the the basis basts of of a a perfectly perfectly healthy healthy digestion. digestion. on Sorne foods, foods, such as as sugar, sugar, which which leaves leaves no no residue, residue, are are Some completely digestible; digestible; with with most most other other foods foods there there is s a a completely proportion of of waste. waste. proportion ln a a normal normal mixed mixed diet diet the the proportion proportion of of digestible digestible matter matter In is 97 97 per per cent cent in in meat meat and and eggs, eggs, 94 94 per per cent in in millc, milk, 79 79 per is cent in in bread, bread, 80 80 to to 85 85 per per cent cent in pulses pulses and and potatoes. potatoes. cent 95 per per cent cent of of the the fats fats in meat, meat, eggs, eggs, and and milk milk are are digestible. digestible. 95 100 per per cent cent of the the carbohydrates carbohydrates in milk milk are are digestible, 100 99 per per cent cent in in cereals cereals in in the the form fonn offlour of ftour or or bread, bread, 96 96 per per cent 99 pulses and and potatoes. potatoes. About l0 10 per per cent of wastage wastage is a in pulses than is average, especially as as most most people people eat eat more more than fair average, strictly necessary. necessary. strictly

Second Secondcourse course (mensa (mensaprima). prima). Various Various stews stewsand and roast roast veal. veal.

Third Third course course (mmsa (mensa secunda). secunda). Pastries Pastries and and various variaus jams, jams,

fruit fruit and and sweetmeats. sweetmeats.

Under Under Charles Charles V V (1337-1380), (1337-1380), the the main main meal meal of of the the day day was was taken taken at at 9 9 a.m. a.m. Under Under Louis Louis XIII XIII (1610-1643), (1610-1643), dinner dinner was was served served at at midday. midday. In ln the the seventeenth seventeenth century, century, it it became became I a.m. customary customary to to serve serve this this meal meal after after mass, mass, between between III a.m. and midday. midday. and Under Under Louis Louis XV XV (1715-1774), (1715-1774), dinner dinner became became the the main main meal meal of of the the day, day, served served at at about about two two p.m. p.m. Nowadays Nowadays the the normal normal dinner dinner hour hour is is between between 7 7 and and 8 8 p.m., p.m., though though in in France France it t is is commonly commonly served served much much later later than than this this and and is is often often in in the the nature nature of of supper. supper. TIMES. TIMES.

DINOCHAU DINOCHAU - See See RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS OF OF BYGONE BYGONE different different dishes. dishes. (See (See PUDDING, PUDDING, Diplomat Diplomat WilW, pudding,
SA UCE, Diplomat Diplomat sauce.) sauce.) SAUCE,
PoRrE-PLAr PORTE-PLAT
-

DIPIOMAT. DIPLOMAT.

DIrLoMATE DIPLOMATE - Name Name given given to to several severa 1 quite quite

DISH DISH STAI\D. STAND.

Basket Basket used used for for carrying carrying

dishes. Also Also a metal metal or porcelain porcelain mat mat on which dishes are dishes. placed. placed.

DIGESfIVE. plcnsrn DIGESTIF - That which whieh promotes promotes digestion. DIGESTM.

DISII\FECTING. DISINFECTING. pisrNFEcrIoN DSINFECTION

digestive juices are elements elements in the secretions secretions of the The digestive digestive glands glands which cause foodstuffs to undergo changes which render render them them assimilable. assimilable. The principle principle digestive digestive juices which are: plyalin in in saliva, pepsin pep.~in and renne! in in the the stomach, stomaeh, and rmnet are: ptyalin amylase, trypsin /rypsin and lipase in in the the pancreas; erepsin erepsin and and and lipase amylase, inver/in in the intestine. invertin juices are are taken in in the form of medicine medieine Severa! Several of these juiees to supplement secretions. Apart in the natural secretions. deficiencies in to supplement defieiencies from these these there there are, strictly speaking, medicines helpful helpful speaking, no medicines from appetite; to the the digestion. Bitter medicines increase the the appette; medicines increase digestion. Bitter to alkalines in the alkalis in acids or alkalis and acids acids neutralise excess acids alkalines and stomach, not, in the exact sense oftheword, digestives. of the word, digestives. are no! but are stomach, but from the the As with coffee, coffee, from after meals meals with taken after liqueun taken As for for liqueurs digestive medical point ofview, deserve the name digestive of view, they do not deserve which is sometimes bestowed upon them. them.

aseptic aseptic by destroying destroying harmful germs. Disinfecting Disinfecting is obligaobligacontaminatcd areas, areas, especially especially those where where provisions provisions tory in contaminatod tory are kept. kept. In In the the case case of foodstuffs foodstuffs which are are in in the the least are

- To To puriff purify or or render -

chemical disinfectants degree contaminated, contaminated, chemical disinfectants are are usually usually degree condemned. and their use in such cases is condemned. ineffectual and
DISPENSAIRE - Name given in former times times to a book of of DISPENSAIRE
recipes.

ptssncnoN DISSECTING. DISSECTION DISSECTING. of jointing. of jointing.

used instead sometimes used Term sometimes Term

province of Burgundy; a a DIJON the ancient ancient province Capital of the - Capital specialities' town repute that has many specialities. town of high gastronomic repute gtngerAmong mustard; gingerare Dijon muslard; most famous are the most these the Among these (ham sprinkled bread; persilU (ham sprinkled with parsley); cassis; jambon persill bread; cassis; Ia gras-doubles (tripe il beef d la d la la dijonnaise); diionnaise); beef Ia dijonnaise dijonnarse (tripe d la bourguignonne snails ln bourguignonne; meure/le. meurette. bourguignonne ;ferchuse; ; fer chuse ; snails d la bourguignonne ; There in are described described in which are special dishes dishes whieh other special are many many other There are detail (q.u.). detail under Burgundy (q.v.). Ali intermeet at at the the intergastronomic world world meet the gastronomic sections of of the All sections national food year. La La Commanderie Commanderie in Dijon Dijon every every year. held in food fair fair held Ducs. des ville des des Ducs. in ln k ville headquarters in has its headquarters also has cordohs-bleus also des cordons-bleus (According commanderie of this this commanderie members of (According to the members to Curnonsky, Curnonsky, the fireplace). would a fircplace). out of of a a dioing-room dining-room out how to to make make a know how would know A bedrooms. in its its bedrooms. has wine taps in wine taps Dijon has hotel in in Dijon A certain certain hotel
DILUTING. liquid or or liqull to to aoother another liquid Adding liquid oEllvm. -- Adding DILUTING. DLAYER semi-solid substance. semi-solid substance. DINATOIRE a sort sort of of dinner; a a midday midday dinner; for a French word word for DINATOIRE -- French late unnecessary. render dinner dinner unnecessary. enough to to render substantial enough late lunch lunch substantial DINNER. dlLatin dilow Latin from the the low DII\NER. DNER oiNrn -- Ward Word derived derived from coenare, coenare, disnare. disnare. In The evening. In towards evening. dined towards usually dined Greeks usually ancient Greeks The ancient ancient ninth or or at the the ninth was taken taken at or supper supper was dinner or Rome dinner ancient Rome teath ur, (between (between 3 p.m.). The menu dinner menu 4 p.m.). The Roman Roman dnner 3 and and 4 hour, tenth ho was follows: up as as follows: made up was made (probably Firs/ (gustatus). Eggs, vegetables (probably various vegetables Eggs, various First course course (gus/a/us). seasoned with vinegar). vinegar). seasoned with

volatile DISTILLATION DISTILLATION - Process of separating the more volatile vaporisation volatile components in a liquid by vaporisation from the less volatile from (through condensation (through (through heating) followed by heating) followed (through by condensation chilling). fermented apparatus is used to distil fermented In industry, industry, very large apparatus juices or production of of comthe production in the or cereal decoctions in fruit juices fruit spirits (q.v.). mercial alcohol or spirits

plunfuQueproperty of increasing increasing DILTRETIC. DIURTIQUE DfiJRETIC - Having the property the Pharmacopoeiae, the In the the old old Codex Phnrmacopoeiae, volume of urine. In the volume the smallage, of smallage, roots of dried roots plants mentioned are are the the dried diuretic plants diuretic parsley and and knee-holly. knee-holly. fennel, parsley asparagus, fennel,
(divine), now only now only for divin divin (divine), word, short for French word, DWE Old French DIVE - Old (the divine a divine bottle), bottle), a la dive bouteille (Ihe dive bouleille expression la in the the expression used in used Gargantua. quotation from Rabelais' Gargan/ua. from Rabelais' quotation
pLoNcEoN -- Web-footed of the the birds of Web-footed birds or LOON. LOON. PLONGEON DwER or DIVER oily, flesh is is tough, tough, oily, to duck. duck. The The flesh order, simiJar similar to Gaviiformes Gaviiformes arder, and fishy. fishy. and

chub, European chub, for the the European French na name DOBULE Common French DOBULE me for - Common a ponds, and fish tastes tastes a This fish rivers. This lakes, ponds, and rivers. found in in Jakes, which is is found which (q.v.) and same way. way. in the the same and is is cooked cookd in little like like thefha thefira (q.v.) little meat of of of deer. deer. The The meat is the the femaJe female of The doe doe is BIcITE -- The DOE. BICHE DOE. similar season, is is sirnilar mating season, killed outside outside the the mating when killed this animal, animal, when this roebuck. of the the roebuck. to that that of to it. to il. are applicable applicable to for venison venison are indicated for All methods methods iodicated Ail preparing it for it for marinated before before preparing be marinated Doe meat meat should should be Doe cooking. cooking. preceding entry. entry. See preceding cHEvRETTEDOE or or ROEDEER. ROEDEER. CHEVRETTE DOE - Sec meat mammal whose whose meat domestic mammal cHIEN -- Carnivorous Carnivorous domestic DOG. CHIEN DOG. is In China there is China there countries. In is eaten eaten in in certain certain countries. edible and and is is edible is (Chow dogs) table. for the the table. fattened for dogs) specially specially fattened dogs (Chow of dogs breed of aa breed

314 314

DOUGH DOUGH In France, France, in in the the sixteenth sixteenth century, century, Chancellor ChancellorDuprat Duprat In had donkeys donkeys bred bred and and fattened fattenedfor for his his table. table. During During the the had Malta by by the blockade of of Malta the English English and and the the Neapolitans, Neapolitans, the the blockade inhabitants, reduced reduced to to eating eating domestic domestic animaIs animals like like dogs, dogs, inhabitants, cats, rats, rats, and and donkeys, donkeys, became becameso so fond fond of donkey flesh of donkey flesh cats, preferred it that they they preferred it to to beef beefand and veal. veal. During During the the siege siege of of that Paris, donkey donkey meat, meat, as asweil well as as the the flesh fleshof lessedible ofother other less edible Paris, animals, helped helped to to appease appease the the hunger hunger of of the the besieged. besieged. animaIs, preparation of Culinary preparation of donkey donkey meat meat is is the thesame same as Culinary for asfor horsemeat or young donkeys or beef. beef. The The meat meat of of young donkeys under horsemeat under two two years old is very very delicate pdtis, which delicate and old is and is inma making isused used in king pts, years which quality rival in quality those made made of veal. rival those of veal. in
DORADE -- See See SEA SEA BREAM. BREAM. DORADE

DORMANT -- Large gold centrepiece or gold silver or DORMANT Large silver centrepiece which, which, in in former times, times, stood stood on on the the dining-table. dining-table. It former It was was similar similar to to an an ipergne. pergne.
Dogfish Dogfish

DOGFISH. AIGUILLAT ArcurLLAr -- Common Common name name for for the the fish fish of of the the DOGFISH. Squalus acanthias acanthias species, species, also piked dogfish also called called the the piked dogfish or or Squa/us This fish fish is grey on is bluish grey on the the back, back, dirty dirty white white spur dogfish. This on the belly, and and has a a horny horny spike spike in front front which which sometimes sometimes on (39 inches) in reaches 1 I m. m. (39 in length. length. It It feeds feeds on on fish, fish, shellfish, shellfish, reaches molluscs, and and has white, rather coarse coarse flesh. flesh. Its Its liver liver oil oil and molluscs, is used used in in the treatment of of animal skins; skins; its its own own skin skin is is used used is by turners for polishing wood and and ivory. prepared by Dogfish can can be be prepared by following following the given the recipes recipes given Dogfish (q.v.) and for cod cod (q.v.) and other large fish; its its flesh flesh can can be be made made into into for soup, which quite nutritive, especially a soup, which is is th thin pasta especially if if pasta in but quite a products, cereals, or bread bread are are added. products, given to other species is given species of of fish fish on on both The name dogfish is both sides of the north Atlantic. sides

(Gilding) -- Term DORURE (Gilding) DORURE Term used used in in French French cookery cookery for for beaten whole yolks, thinned whole eggs eggs or or egg egg yolks, beaten with aa little little water, thinned with water, pastry and brushed onto onto pastry and other other mixtures brushed mixtures such such as Duchess as Duchess potato (see (see POT pastry-brush made POTATOES) ATOES) with potato with aa pastry-brush made of of silk silk or feathers. feathers. or

DOTIEREL. GUIGNARD DOITEREL. curcN.lno -- European passage of European bird bird of of passage of the the wader group. group. Its Its flesh wader flesh is is rather rather tasteless. tasteless. Ail All recipes recipes for for plover (q.v.) (q.v.) are plover are suitable suitable for for dotterel. dotterel.
DOUBLE-CREAM (Cheese) (Cheese) -- See DOUBLE-CREAM See CHEESE. CHEESE. DOLIBLER -- Term DOUBLER Term in in French French cookery, cookery, meaning meaning to to fold fold in in pastry, a two a a layer layer of two of pastry, a cut cut of of meat, meat, or or a a fillet fillet of of fish. fish. It It also also means to pastries on means to cover cover pastries on a a baking baking sheet sheet with with another another sheet sheet to prevent overbaking to overbaking by by excessive excessive heat. heat.
(U.S. Double DOUBLE UCEP AN (u'S. DOUBLE SA SAUCEPAN Double boUer). DoUBLE-FoND boiler). DOUBLE-FOND -- Two Two saucepans saucepans which which fit fit together. together. Food Food which which must must not not come come in in contact placed with the the heat heat of contact directly directly with of the the cooker cooker is is placed in pan contains in the the upper upper saucepan. saucepan. The The lower lower pan contains water water which which is is brought brought to to the the boil, heating the boil, thus thus heating the contents contents of of the the pan. upper pan. pArn DOUGH, DOUGH, PASTRY, PASTRY, AND AI\D BATTER. BATTER. PTEBriochedoughI. BRIOCHE-Ingredients. 500 g. Brioche dough I. PTE rArrA rnrocrn-Irugredients.500 (18 oz., g. (18 oz., 4| cups) sieved 4t (14 oz., g. (14 sieved flour, flour, 400 g. (t (1 400 g. l| cups) cups) butter, oz., li butter, 10 l0 g. yeast, 6 oz.) dried yeast, (l oz., g. (l 6 eggs, eggs, 25 25 g. oz., 2 2 tablespoons) tablespoons) fine fine sugar, sugar, It l| teaspoons salt, (6 tablespoons, salt, 1 I dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, seant scant tl cup) crrp) warm wann water. The The leaven. quarter of leaven. Put Put a a quarter of the the flour flour in in a a circle circle on on the the table, with the yeast in in the middle. Dilute with with a a little little water, water, moisten and and mix, mix, keeping keeping the the dough rather rather soft. soft. Roll Roll into into a a bail, ball, make a a crossways incision on on the top, put into a a small small bowl, cover, and leave in a wann place for a warm for the the paste to to ferment ferment and and double its volume. The dough. dough. Put the rest of the flour in a a circle on the table, on the table, add (3 tablespoons) add 4 4 eggs eggs and 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 and 2 tablespoons) warm warm water, water, mix, and and knead knead the dough. Add the sugar and and salt dissolved dissolved in in a a few few drops drops of of water, water, soften soften the butter butter and add it to the dough. Add the remaining 2 eggs, eggs, one by one, one, and and mix the the dough dough weil. well. Spread Spread the dough dough on on the the table, indent, pour the indent, pour leaven the leaven centre, and into the centre, and blend it it in. in. Put the the dough into into a a bowl, bowl, cover with a cloth, and and leave in a a warm place to to rise. rise. la ter beat the dough, and keep in 5 or 6 hours later 5 and keep in a a cool cool place until needed. fi. pArn PTE A BRIOCHE Brioche dough IL nnrocne COMMUNE coMMUNE Ingredients. - Ingredients. 4t cups) sieved flour, 200 500 g. (18 oz., 4| g. (7 (7 oz., 2(X) g. oz., scant scant cup) cup) butter, 10 g. (i (-3- oz.) oz.) yeast, yeast, 4 eggs, 1 butter, l0 g. 4 eggs, I teaspoon teaspoon fine fine sugar, sugai, 1j teaspoons teaspoons salt, salt, 1 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant I I dl. dl. (6 scant I cup) warm wann ",rp) water (or milk). water

DOLIC. DOLIQUE DoLreuE pulses, several several of which DOLIC. which are are - Group of pulses, edible. Among these these the most most important is is the the soya soya bean (q.v.). DOLMAS (Iurkidr cookery) or DOLMADES DOLMADES (furkish cookery) Dolmas DOLMAS or - Do/mas are blanching vine vine leaves, draining draining them, are prepared by blanching them, and stuffing them with minced lamb and cooked rice. rice. The leaves are and braised braised in very little stock with oil are rolled rolled into balls and and lemon lemon juice juice added. Dolmas Do/mas can albo also be made with cabbage leaves, leaves, fig fig leaves or the leaves leaves of of the hazelnut tree. In Turkey, sheep-tail fat. Turkey, dolmas do/mas are often cooked in sheep-tail Dolma used in the Middle East for a Do/ma is also the term tenn used a dish (aubergines, tomatoes, of stuffed vegetables of mixed mixed stuffed vegetables (aubergines, tomatoes, artichoke hearts hearts and courgettes). courgettes). DOM PERIGNON PRIGNON - A monk of the Abbey of Hautvilliers
near near Epernay, who achieved achieved fame by by discovering the process of of making making sparkling sparkling Champagne. Champagne.

He He gave gave his his name name to to a a celebrated Mot Mot et et Chandon Chandon
Champagne. Champagne.

DOI\KEY. DONKEY. ANn, NE, ANoN NON - Donkey's Donkey's meat meat is tasty ta st y and superior superior in flavour to that of horse; it is used mainly in the manufacture facture of of certain certain types types of of sausage. sausage. Wild donkey used to be considered considered choice choice venison in the Orient. Orient. According According to M. Alquier, Alquier, donkey donkey meat is less Jess fatty and
richer richer in albuminoids albuminoids than equivalent equivalent cuts cuts of of beef. The domesticated domesticated donkey donkey is a descendant descendant of the Nubian The donkey. donkey. Donkey meat, meat, and and that that of donkey donkey foals, foals, was was highly Donkey Romans. Maecenas, Maecenas, it is is said, said, treated treated his valued by by the the Romans. valued guests of marinated marinated donkey donkey meat. meat. guests to to a a stew of The Persians Persians were were great great lovers lovers of donkey meat. meat. ThirtyThe two wild wild asses asses were were served served at at a a banquet banquet givor given by by Chah Chah Abbas. Abbas. two

315 315

DOUGH
Method. Method. Proceed Proceed as as described in in the the recipe for Brioche
dough lbut I but keeping keeping it rather rather firm. fion. When intended for pies to be served as an entrie, entre, or for

coulibiacs (q.v.), (q.v.), the the sugar sugar can can be be omitted, although although the small indicated above is is only only meant meant to small amount of sugar indicated give a little little colour to the dough. Mousseline brioche brioche dough. dougb. pArp PTE A BRrocHE BRIOCHE MoUSSELINE MOUSSELINE Mousseline as described dough as described in the recipe for for ordinary Prepare the dough (2 oz., I i cup) softened softened butter per Brioche dough 1. Add 50 g. Q (1 lb.) dough. 450 g. (1 a ball, Shape the dough dough into a bail, put it into a well-buttered well-buttered tied round has a band of greaseproof paper tied a band mould which has above two thirds. thirds. Leave in a warm waon taking care not to fill it above it, taking place of the mould. place until un til the dough rises to the top of mould. oyen. Bake in a slow oven. pArn A n'orcHou D'OFd'office (cream (cream puff pashy). pastry). PTE CHOU Chou paste d'office ( lf pints, generous quart) quart) water, 200 200 g. (7 oz., FICE - Put 1 1 litre litre (1; nce a pan. teaspoons salt into a pan. Bring scant cup) cup) butter, and and 1 teaspoons scant (1 lb. g. (1 lb. 6 oz., 625 g. from heat heat and and add add 625 to the boil, remove from pouring well. sieved flour, pou ring it ail all in at once. Mix weil. 5| cups) sievod with a a wooden Retum to to the the heat heat and and cook, cook, stirring stirring with Return from the comes away away from dries and and cornes spoon, until the mixture dries until the spoon, heat and, stirring vigorRemove from the heat sides of the pan. Remove on size), size), putting them ously, or 14 eggs eggs (depending on ously, add add, 12 or in 2 at a time. in2 pArE (cream puff pastry). PTE A CHOU cnou puff pastry). paste (cream chou paste Ordinary chou ORDINAIRE paste can caln be moistened moistened with milk instead oRDINAIRE - Chou paste by one. one. Stir Stir the can be be added added one one by eggs can and the the eggs of water, water, and mixture with a wooden spoon alJ all the the time. mixture pArs Dumpling dougb. A DUMPLING DUMILING Ingredienrs. 500 g. douglr. PTE Dumplrng - Ingredients. g. (Il oz., (18 oz., oz.,2j cups) suet (18 2i cups) 4j cups) flour, 300 g. oz., 4t cups) sieved flour, (2 oz., (shredded), 50 g. (2 (shredded), 1| teaspoons teaspoons salt, sugar, 1 cup) sugar, oz., i 50 g. + cup) (+ pint, scant cup) water. 2 dl. (-t put the suet Method. Put the flour in a on the table, put a circle on in the middle, and Mix to a a fairly fairly sugar, salt and water. Mix and add sugar, stiff dough, shape into a a cool place until until a bail, ball, and and keep in in a needed.

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Flaky pastry Flaky pastry

Flaky pastry, the most pastry. FEUILLETAGE Flaky pastry, the most FEUILLETAGE -- Flaky Flaky pastry. delicate have pastries, is to have is said said by by sorne some historians to all pastries, delicate of of ail been famous le Lorrain, Lorrain, the the famous Gel6e, called called le Claude Gele, been invented by Claude seventeenth painter. Others by a say it it was was invented inventod bya Othen say seventeenth century century painter. chef house to the the house chief pastry-cook to Feuillet who who was was chief chef called called Feuillet of Cond. ofCond6. Carme gteat praises Feuillet, a great was undoubtedly undoubtedly a Feuillet, who who was Car6me praises 316 316

pastry-coolg and in Car6me says, pastry-cook, and in his his Pdtissier Ptissier Royal, Royal, Carme 'Richard spurred me as hard by speaking speaking me on to work twice as stops there, Car6me stops to me often of the great Feuillet'. But Carme does he in his on pastry does and nowhere in his learned leamed treatises on he say and pastry. But But Joseph was the inventor of of flaky pastry. that that Feuillet was Dictionnaire universel universel subject. In lnhis Favre is definite on this subject. his Dictionnaire 'the inventor of of flaky he says was 'the says that that Feuillet was de cuisine caisine he de pastry.' pastry.' of a a however, from from the the study study of of documents of It appears, appears, however, It in known not only in much earlier date, date, that flaky pastry was known also in Greece. In In a a charter Ages but but also in ancient Greece. the Middle the Middle Ages ( I 3 I I ), flaky-pastry flaky-pastry drawn up by Robert, Bishop of Amiens (1311), cakes are mentioned. pastry-cook's it is is said, said, served served a a pastry-cook's who, it Gel6e who, Claude Gele Claude of this therefore not not the the inventor inventor of was therefore apprenticeship, was apprenticeship, in it back into fashion in brought it delicious pastry. He merely brought his own time. (modern recipe). p$try or PArE FEUILFEUILrecipe). PTE or puff pastry (modem Flrky pastry Flaky in the a flour-and-water rnr6E, FEUILLETAGE FEUILLETAGE flour-and-water paste in LETE, - Prepare a following manner: (18 oz., g. (18 a board in a a 4j cups) sieved flour flour on on a board in oz., 4t cups) sieved Put 500 g. Put flours differ, differ, the the in the middle. middle. Since flours making a a welJ well in circle, ci rcl e, making of water to flour is variable. Into the centre exact proportion ofwater pint, in H l| teaspoons salt and and about about 3 3 dl. dl. (t of this circle put in @ pint, is smooth knead until the dough dough is lf cups) cups) water. water. Mix Mix and and knead until the li 25 minutes. minutes. a bail ball and and let let it it stand for 25 elastic. Foon Form into a and elastic. (8 inches) sheet about 20 cm. cm. (8 the dough into into a a sheet about 20 Roll out out the RoU (18 oz., g. (18 500 g. oz., thickness throughout. throughout. Put 500 ofeven even thickness square and of the middle of this this dough. dough. The The kneaded butter butter in in the middle of 2| cups) cups) kneaded 2i Fold flourod board. board. Fold should be kneaded on on a a lightly lightly floured be kneaded butter should as to to the butter in such such a a way way as the dough dough over over the butter in the ends ends of the the a for 10 l0 minutes minutes in in a Leave to to stand stand for it completely. Leave enclose it cold Id place. co is called called tourage tourage dough. This This operation turns operation is Give 2 tu ms to this dough. is done done in in two parts: in French and and it it is in lightly floured floured on a a lightly the dough dough with with a a rolling-pin on l. Roll Roll the 1. (24 cm. (24 to obtain obtain a a rectangle rectangle 60 60 cm. such a a way way as as to board board in in such (| inch) (8 inches) wide, and 1| cm. cm. (i inch) thick. thick. and 1 cm. (8 inches) long, 20 cm. in three. three. 2. 2. Refold the strip in folded dough dough done by by rolling out out the the folded second tum turn is is done The The second and so so forth. forth. opposite direction, direction, and in in the the opposite for dough, leaving it to to stand stand for 4 more more tu turns to the the dough, leaving it Give ms to Give 4 After having having been been operation. After minutes between between each each operation. 10 l0 minutes puff pastry is prescribed turns, is ready ready for for use. use. given the turns, the the puff the 6 6 prescribed given to spread spread the the butter butter and rolling rolling is is to turning and The The purpose of of tuming dough. evenly evenly in in the the dough. preparation, the kept in be kept in a a cold cold the dough dough should should be During During preparation, put directly could place, but not be on ice; ice; this this could place, it should should not be put directly on but it to not be be easy easy to harden and and it would then then not cause the butter butter to to harden it would cause the in the the dough. dough. incorporate incorporate in (Car0me's recipe). rocipe). PTE pff pastry pastry (Carme's rArr pastry or Flaky Flaky pastry or puff (about 800 put a 'Having put a litron litron (about 800 g., FEUILLETE, FEUTLLETAGE - 'Having FEUTLLET6E, FEUILLETAGE9., place the tips of of the tips sieved flour flour on on the the board, board, place l; l? lb., lb., 7 7 cups) cups) sieved an your fingers into a a circle circle with with an middle and and spread spread it it into your fingers in in the the middle (4 inches); known this operation operation is is known inside cm. (4 inches); this l0 cm. diameter of of 10 inside diameter disposed in in this this the flour, flour, disposed as a weil" well" because because the as "making "making a for moistening moistening required for manner, have the the water water which which is is required manner, will will have put in it middle. it put in the the middle. (see WEIGHTS 'In the put 2 gros (see AND WEIGHTS AND 'In well, put 2 gros the centre centre ofthis of this weil, piece of yolks, a a piece of butter butter the the MEASURES) MEASURES) fine fine salt, salt, 2 2 egg egg yolks, glass of Stir this this mixture mixture size and nearly nearly a a glass of water. water. Stir size of of a a walnut walnut and (using the hand only and your fingers with right hand only and the tips fingers (using the right of your with the tips of in mix in little by by little, little, mix keeping spread out) out) and, and, little keeping the the fingers fingers spread that the the the more water necessary so so that adding a a little little more water if if necessary the flour, flour, adding slightly and is dough has the right consistency is slightly is moistened, moistened, has the right consistency and dough is pressing with the hand hand on on the the fion. with the little, pressing firm. Then Then work work it it a a little, board a few few minutes, minutes, a a as to to achieve, achieve, after after a in such such a a way way as board in satin. dough touch and as smooth smooth as as satin. is soft soft to to the the touch and as dough which which is

DOUGH DOUGH

well L 1. Water Water is poured poured on the the salt salt in the mrddle middle of of the weil

water 2. Milling Mixing /lour ffour and and waler 2.

paste putting butter on the paste 3. 3. Method Method of putting

paste 4. How How butter butter is is enclosed in the the paste enclosed in 4.

5. 5. Rolling paste is Rolling out sheet first time: 1na a rectanguJar rectangular sheet out for for the the first the paste is rolled rolled out out in trme: the

folded in isfolded rectangle ofpaste of paste is in three three 6. Rolling for the time : the the rectangle Rolling out out for the second second time: 6.

7. 7.Second Second turn: paste before turn: turn turn the rolling it it out out the paste before rolling

giventwo paste to beengiven two turns turns 8. indicate that that ititbas 8.Making hasbeen Makingaamark mark on onthe thepaste toindicate

(Larousse) MAKlNG deParis Pari,s (Larousse) classes,Gaz Gaz de Cookery classes, PASTRY Cookery MAKING FLAKY FLAKY PASTRY

317 3r7

DOUGH
be too firm This dough should neither be finn nor too soft. It is, however, better for it a !ittle little on side rather soft side on the the soft it to to be a than too hard. put 400 'Roll the out in in a a rectangular sheet; sheet; put 400 g. 'Roll the dough out (14 oz., in the middle and and fold fold the edges of (14 oz.,l| cups) butter in the dough over it. The butter should have been kneaded in a napkin napkin to extract water and to make it supple and smooth. Make sure that it is entirely thickness entirely enclosed with an even thickness quickly as of dough dough aU all round. This should should he be done done as as quickly of round. This possible. The The dough dough should he be folded folded in in 3 layers layers of equal possible. to the the same same dimensions, turning it length. Roll out again to length. RoU out before rolling rolling so so that its width becomes its i15 former width its length. Fold it again in the same way, and roll out so that it is 5 cm. (2 inches) longer than it is wide. Put it quickly onto a a plate (2 lightly and stand on crushed ice spread Iightly sprinkled with flour and pan. Cover same length and out to to coyer the same cover the and width width as as the pan. a piece of paper, on which you stand a the dough with a a plate of crushed ice. plate, tum 'After 3 4 minutes minutes remove remove the 'After 3 or or 4 the top top plate, turn the dough over and and coyer dough cover again. Begin the same operation operation ail all give the you give again, after after which which you over the dough over again, dough 2 2 turns turns as described above. above. Put Put the dough dough on on ice ice again, turning it it as described carefully as as before. before. Give another tum turn or two, depending on the use use for which it is intended. be taken to to sprinkle the the top and and bottom of 'Care should be paste with flour the paste flour very sparingly when turning it, otherwise it goes grey in the baking. 'When the dough has been given the last tum, turn, it should be placed in the oyen used at at once, being placed oven 4, 6 or, at at the most, used last rolling out. out. If 8 minutes after after the last If it it is is ready 20 20 or 25 8 can he be put in the oyen, oven, it will be dull dull and minutes before it can tough.' (Le pdtissier ptissier royale.) pastry or puff pff pastry pastry made (Car0me's recipe). recipe). Flaky pastry made with oU oil (Carme's Flaky pArs FEUILLETE rsunrprir A L'HrfiE 'Proceed as PTE L'HUILE - 'Proceed in the as described described in (see below), for Pudding pastry or su recipe for suet recipe et flaky flaky pastry (sec (generous j pint, lf cups) oil using oil, not lard. Add 3+ dl. (generous and turning of flaky pastry. Then cut as during the rolling and usual.' prstry or rough pff ilasny. pArE DEMI-FEUILSemi-flaky pastry Semi-flaky DEMr-FEUTLLETAGE rnr6r, DEMI-FEUILLETAGE LETE, - Cut out puff pastry into patties, vol-au-vent, etc., etc., and and collect collect the the left-over pieces together vol-au-vent, ball. into a bail. making This dougtr, also called rognures, can be used for making tartlets, croustades, tartlets, tartlets, etc. onal-smme:o tartlets, boat-shaped pArr FEUILLETE prff pastry. PTE rsulrrErfn Three-Dnute Threminute flaky pastry or puff EN TROIS MINUTEs -Ingredients. oz.,3f 400 g. (14 oz., 31 cups) sifted EN rRols MINUTES - Ingredients.400 (18 oz., g. (18 flour, 500 g. oz., 2Lo cups) cups) butter, teaspoons salt, fi our, 500 butter, 1 teaspoons 2j dl. (scant 1 I pint, generous cup) water. give the dough 4 turns. Method. Mix the ingredients and give rAre FEUILLETE rnu[rnrEe A LA Viennese flaky pastry pastry or prffpasfy. puff pastry. PTE g. (18 oz., 4j cups) sifted flour, oz., 41 VIENNOISE Ingredients. 500 g. vrENNoIsE - Ingredients. (scant yolks, 2t (18 oz., g. (18 2+ dl. dl. (scant cups) butter, 2 2 egg egg yolks, 500 500 g. oz., 2| cups) water, 1t teaspoons salt. * pinq generous cup) water, Method. Mix half the flour with the yolks, water and and salt. blending Mix the rest of the flour with a third of the butter, blending a knife. them with a a thin square sheet. Roll out the flour-and-water flour-and-water paste to a mixture into a square of a smaller Shape Shape the butter-and-flour butter-and-flour mixture put it on it and and folding size size and and put on the other paste, enclosing it the edges. Roll out as described described in puff pastry recipes. edges. Roll ,1, L'EAU - This used for This is Flour-and-water paste. pArs PTE is used Flour-and-wate paste. luting, or luting, hermetically sealing, earthenware casserole and or hermetically wann made by cocotte Iids. ft It is is made by mixing flour with enough warm cocotte lids. a soft paste. Use as indicated. water 10 tain a to ob obtain pArs rnvfn PouR TARTES TARTES Leavened dougb LEVE POUR dough for tarts. tarts PTE - The paste for as for leavened paste for tarts the same as best recipe for tar15 is is the for leavened best recipe I. Brioche dough 1. g.(18 A more ordinary dough can be made using 500 g. (18 oz.,
sifted flour, 4 eggs, 11 4f cups) sifted l f teaspoons salt, 1| tablespoons tablespoons salt" 1 4! (* oz.) yeast, 2{ dl. g. (1 sugar, 10 l0 g. dl. (scant 1 sugar, } pint, generous cup) milk and and 200 g. (7 oz., oz., scant cup) butter. milk: butter. Proceed as as describod in I. in the recipe Proceed recipe for Brioche dough 1. pAm pasb or pastry psstry dougb dogh 1. roNcrn FINE A FONCER Fine lining paste I. PTE (l I oz., 4f cups) sifted sifted flour, 300 g. (Il Ingredients. 500 g. (18 oz., 4t Ingredients.500 (f pint, pint, 3 cup) water, 50 g. (2 l$ I egg dl. 1 i- cups) butter, l It l. Q oz., Ud teaspoons salt. ",rp) I cup) fine sugar, 1| teaSp()0I1S Method. Spread the flour in a circle on the board, make a well in the middle and and put in in the egg, egg, butter, water, sugar, ingredients together and incorporate incorporate the and salt. Mix these these ingredien15 flour, little by little. roll the paste into a bail, ball, wrap in a c1oth, cloth, and Knead twice, roH plaoe until ready for use. keep in a cold place Lining paste should always be made several hours before it is The less as it quickly it is needed. The less it is is handled the better, better, as becomes tough. pArn (tart pasfry). PTE pastry dough fi II (tart Ordinary paste or pastry Ordinary lining paste g. (18 oz., oz.,4j cups) Ingredients. 500 g. roNcen ORDINAIRE oRDTNATRE A FONCER - Ingredients. pint, g. (9 oz., generous cup) butter, 2 dl. (f pin 250 g. t, sifted flour, 250 teaspoons salt. scant cup) water, lf teaspoons Method. Proceod as described described in the recipe recipe for Fine lining paste. Pastry dougb dou$ for bot hot or cold pies see PASTRY. - sec (Car0ne's recipe). pastry (Carme's recipe). or suet sret flaky flaky pastry hdditrg pastry or pArs FEUILLETE PTE BOEUF 'Remove skin and reurLl-nrrn A LA GRAISSE cRArssE DE BoEUF -'Remove (l lb.) of suet, chop it up g. (l up very finely and fibre from 450 g. fibre pound good olive oil. Add in a with 1 I tablespoon good pound in a mortar with tablespoons oil, little by little, as as you pound it. several more tablespoons This gives it body and and softens it, so so that the This the suet becomes as soft and easy to work as butter. butter. as place of proportions. 'Proceed to use it 'Proceed it in place of butter, in in the same proportions. 'Lard can be used instead instead of of oil and by using suet and lard equal proportions, very good puff paste is obtairled, very in equaJ must be eaten hot.' agreeable to the palate, but it must (See suitable for entre This type of puff paste is entrie pies. is sui table for pies. (Sec TOURTES (PrES).)

2i

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pArs Savarin dmgh 1. L PTE A SAVARIN Ingredients. 500 snvmrN - Ingredienls. 500 g. (18 oz., 4| cups) sifted (9 oz., g. (9 generous cup) sifted flour, flour,250 oz., generous 250 g. butter, 50 g. (2 oz., oz., cup) cup) sugar, sugar, 1 teaspoons salt, 10 l0 g. teaspoons salt, (* oz.) yeast,6 to 8 eggs, 2 dl. (t (+ pint, scant cup) milk. Method. Dissolve the yeast in in about 2t 2| dl. (scant I pint, generous a third of the flour. IoI.t:IIt:HJU:S cup) warm water, adding it to a Blend and leave to rise until the leaven more than doubles doubles its i15 volume. Spread the rest of the flour in a circle on the board, make add salt and and two thirds of the eggs. a well in the middle and add Work the mixture by hand give it more body, hand to Work to give body, then add rest of the eggs and and the milk. milk. Knead until the paste no the rest longer sticks to the hands. and pour in the leaven. Blend the Add the butter quickly and mixture to to make it smooth and, last la st of ail, all, add add the the sugar. a bowl, coyer cover with a Put the dough in a a c1oth, cloth, and stand stand in a cool place. Leave until the following day. a special border, mould, is A mould with a border, called callod a savarin mould, cake. Butter the mould and and half-fill half-fill it used for baking this cake. Stand in a warm place and leave the dough with the dough. Stand oven to rise until it completely fills the mould. Bake Bake in a a hot oyen 20 to to 35 35 minutes, according to size of the mould. mould. from 20 to the size pArs A SAVARIN Savarin fi. PTE Savarin dugb IL s,lvmrx - This This is is a a shorter formula. The ingredients are identical. identical. Put sifted flour in a bowl. Mix the leaven and ard the dough Put the sifted in the order described described ab above. Add the melted butter, still in the order ove. Add sugar, and Add the the leaven and and sugar, and use at warm, to the dough. Add warm, to once. dou$ Ill. III. pAre 500 g. PTE SAVARIN Ingredients. 500 sevmnl - Ingredients. . Savarin doogb 4| cups) sifted sifted flour, 375 375 g. (13 oz., generous l! lj cups) (18 oz., 4t

hrffpashy-

See

FLAKY PASTRY.

t i

ljt

318

DOUGH DOUGH
butter, butter, 3 tablespoons tablespoons fine fine sugar, 20 20 g.G g. (1 oz., oz., I 1 cake) yeast, yeast, 8 8 eggs, I 1 dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seant * ~ crrp) cup) milk, milk, lj 1t teaspoons teaspoons
Cr0pe Crpe batter batter (sweet). (sweet), pArs P' A IANNEQUETS PANNEQUETS - Put Put 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz.,2t oz., 2i cups) sifted flour, flour, 100 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz., oz., t i cup) cup) fine fine sugar sugar and a a pinch pinch of of salt into a bowl. bowl. Add Add 6 whole who le eggs. eggs. Stir Stir the the mixture with with a a wooden wooden spoon spoon until unti] smooth. smooth. Dilute Dilute with with 7+ 7~ dl. (l+ (I~ pints, pints, lf l~ pints) pints) boiled boiled milk miLk flavoured flavoured with with vanilla, vanilla, orange, or or lemon, lemon, depending on the the nature nature of of the the pancakes. pancakes. Add Add 1 tablespoon tablespoon butter butter heated heated to to noisette noisel/e colour eolour (see (see BUTTER) BUTTER) and and I 1 tablespoon brandy brandy or rum. Blend well. weil. Cussy batter. batter. pAre P' A cussY cUSSY - Ingredients. Ingredients. 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz., generous generous cup) cup) fine fine sugar, sugar, 150 g. g. (5 (5 oz., OZ., scantcup) scantcup) rice lice flour, flour, 7 7 whole eggs, 65 g. (21o2.,5 (2i OZ., 5 tablespoons) tablespoons) butter, I 1 tablespoon vanilla-flavoured salt. vanilla-flavoured sugar, sugar, a a pinch pinch of ofsalt. Method. Method. Put the eggs, eggs, sugar, sugar, vanilla vanilla sugar, sugar, and salt into into a basin. Whisk the the eggs over a low low heat. When When the the mixture mixture is well weil whisked, add the rice flour flour and melted butter. butter. Batter Batter for for soufr6 soulH fritters. fritters. pArp P' A BEIGNETs BEIGNETS sotrrrr.fs SOUFFLS Prepare in as Chou paste in the the same way way as paste d'ffice, d'office, adding 4 4 teaspoons teaspoons sugar sugar for the proportions proportions indicated in in that tha t recipe. recipe. Batter Batler for for Vienna Vienna fritters. fritters. pArs PTE A BEIGNBTS BEIGNETS vIENNoIS VlENNOlS losing for Brioche dough using Proceed Proceed as as described described in the recipe for (18 o2.,4| scant cup) 500 g. (l8 oz., 41 cups) sieved flour, flour, 200 g(7 g (7 oz., seant yeast,2l salt, butter, 6 eggs, butter,6 eggs, 20 g.G g. (1 oz., oz., I 1 cake) yeast, 2t teaspoons teaspoons salt, (6 tablespoons, scant I cup) I tablespoon sugar sugar and I llab]espoon 1 dl. (6 tablespoons, scant cup) milk. milk. pArs A g. (18 Galettebatter. Galette blltter. P' clrBrrrGALET' - Ingredients.500 Ingredients. 500 g. (18 oz., (13 oz., generous generous lI g. (13 4f cups) sifted flour, 4tcups)sifted flour, 375 g. II cups) butter, butter, g. (t (+ pint, 1 tablespoon) fine 15 g. l+ dl. (i li dl. pint, t ~ cup) water, water, 15 OZ., 1 fine G oz., sugar and and 11 teaspoons teaspoons salt. Method. Mix as described described in the recipe for Fine lining Iining paste. paste. stand without kneading. Leave Roll the dough into a ball baIl without Leave to to stand in a cool place for 2 hours. it to Give the dough 3 turns, leaving Icaving it to stand for for l0 10 minutes minutes before between belween each turn. Leave to to stand for for a a few few minutes before use. galettes (biscuits). A PErIrEs salted galettes for little Batter Batier for IIt1Je salted P' PETITES @iscuits). pArs (9 oz., g. (9 sifted o2.,2| cups) sifted cALErrEs SALES sAr.EEs GALETTES Ingredients. 250 g. 2i cups) - Ingredients. (6 tablespoons, (4 oz., g. (4 I dl. tablespoons, seant scant dl. (6 oz.,l butter, 1 flour, 100 g. t cup) butter, (l oz., and l! g. (1 fine sugar sugar and milk, 25 25 g. o2.,2 ! 2 tablespoons) tab]espoons) fine 1 cup) milk, "up) teaspoons teaspoons salt. a weil well in in the the flour on on a a board, Method. Pour the flour Pour the Method. board, make a put the it. Add Add the the butter, and salt salt into into il. middle and and put sugar and middle the sugar Knead aIl slightly warmed. warmed. Knead all has been been slightly and the the milk milk which which has and for leave to to stand stand for ball, and leave ingredients together, a baU, the ingredienls together, roll into a minutes. 30 minutes. (i inch) Prick inch) in in thickness. thickness. Prick to t Roll the the dough out out to cm. ( Roll 1c-. (2-inch) a 6-cm. 6-cm. (2-inch) out with with a with a a fork. fork. Cut Cut out the surface with over the galettes on and metal tray tray and pastry-cutter. Put on a a metal Put the the galettes round pastry-cutter. round oven for about about 10 minutes. bake in a hot oyen pArs (13 oz., g. (13 oz., A GNOISE /ngredients.375 ctNotsn 375 g. Genoese batter. P' - Ingredients. (18 oz., g. (18 2f cups) cups) fine fine sugar, oz., 2i flour, 500 500 g. 3$ cups) cups) sifted sifted flour, 3! flavouring. (7 OZ., 16 eggs, eggs, flavouring. g. (7 melted butter, butter, 16 scant cup) melted 2A0 g. oz., seant 200 very slowly slowly and cook cook very sugar and and eggs, eggs, and the sugar Method. Blend Blend the Method. pan of until the hot water. Whisk Whisk until a pan of hot heat or or over over a low heat over low over gently heat. Stirring Stirring gently Remove from from heat. a ribbon. ribbon. Remove mixture makes a and melted flour and flavouring, flour add the flavouring, wooden spoon, add with a a wood en spoon, with pouring the latter in in a a small small thread. Put into buttered, butter, pouling hot oven. oven. in a a hot floured tins tins and and bake bake in floured vanilla sugar, sugar, with vaniJla flavoured with be flavoured may he batter may Genoese batter Genoese peel, or liqueur. or liqueur. lemon or or orange orange peel, extract, lemon vanilla extract, pAre as described described Proceed as A GOUGRE couctnn -- Proceed Gougbre batter. PTE Gougre paste. to After adding adding eggs eggs to chou pas the recipe recipe for for Ordinary Ordinary chou in the in te. After generous 2 (9 oz., g. (9 2 cups) cups) paste, finish 250 g. oz., generous finish off off with with 250 the paste, the small dice. dice. in very very small Gruydre cheese cheese eut cut in Gruyre pArr ( I 8 oz., g. (18 oz., 500 g. A MANQU-Ingredients. u.LNqu6 - .Ing r edient s. 500 batter. PTE Manqu6 blliter. Manqu g. (14 oz., flour, 300 300 g. g. (14 cups) sifled sifted flour, 400 g. 2| cups) o2.,3| cups) fine fine sugar, sugar, 400 2i 3! cups) yolks, ]6 egg (11 beaten egg 16 stilHy stifly beaten l$ cups) cups) butter, butter, 18 18 egg egg yolks, oz., It (J 1 oz., (scant I cup) rum. whites, 3 tablespoons cup) rum. tablespoons (seant! whites,3 yolks and until and the the sugar sugar in in a a bowl bowl until Method. Cream the yolks Cream the Method. flour, light. Add Add the the rum rum and and flour, white and and lighl. the mixture mixture becomes becomes white the

fine salt. salt. Method. Method. Put the sifted flour in a bowl, bowl, make make a well in the the middle and and put in the yeast. yeast. Moisten the yeast yeast with with the the warm milk and and stir. Add the eggs one by one, mixing the the wann paste hands to blend blend well. weil. Soften the the butter, butter, divide divide paste with the the hands it into small put them on the paste. Cover Coyer the the sm aU pieces, and put bowl warm place place to ferment until untiJ the dough bowl and stand in a wann doubles its volume. blend in the the butter butter and Add the salt. Knead the dough to blend so until the dough dough acquires sufficient body continue to do so to be be lifted lifted in one piece. piece. Add the the sugar and and knead a a few blend well. weil. minutes longer to blend dOllgh [V. IV. pArn P' A slvlnIN SAVARIN - Ingredients. Ingredients. 500 500 g. g. Savarin dough (18 (l8 oz., 4j 4t cups) sifted flour, 350 g. g. (12 (] 2 oz., OZ., lf 1 ~ cups) cups) butter, butter, g. (i 2 teaspoons teaspoons sugar, l0 lOg. Goz.) yeast, 7 eggs, eggs, I 1 dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, spoons, scant seant I t cup) milk, 1t teaspoons teaspoons fine salt. Method. Method. Prepare a a leaven, leaven, using a a quarter of the the flour, small bowl, the yeast and the warm wann milk. Put this leaven in a smaU bowl, coyer, and stand in a warm place to ferment. cover, Mix of the flour with half M ix the rest of half the butter, butter, the eggs, and the salt. Blend weIl, well, kneading the paste. Add the leaven, the rest which has been softened, rest of the butter, which softened, and and the sugar. Continue Continue to knead the dough for a a few few moments. pasfi I. I. pArs $cHu SUCRE sucnfu - Ingredienls. Sbort PTE SCHE Ingredients. 500 500 g. Short pllslry g. (7 oz., scant cup) butter, 4| cups) sifted flour, 200 g. butter, (18 oz., 41 (5 OZ., g. (5 eggs, 150 g. oz., 1 3 eggs, i tablespoon orange orange t cup) fine sugar, I blossom water or 1 orange extract. blossom water teaspoon orange I teaspoon described in the recipe for Fine lining Method. Proceed as described paste I. paste or pastry dough 1. pArE sucRE (9 oz., g. (9 II. P' sucnfu Short pastry paslry n. Ingredients. 250 g. - Ingredients.250 (3 oz., g. (3 6 tablespoons) sugar, 75 g. oz., 6 2t cups) flour, 75 sifted flour, 2 cups) sifted small pinch of salt, (7 oz., g. (7 I egg, egg, a a small butter, 1 oz., scant cup) butter, 200 g. lelTIon peel peel or vanilla-flavoured vanilla-flavoured sugar. lemon well in in the the a weil flour in in a a circle, circle, make a Method. Spread Spread the flour salt, and put in softened butter, butter, salt, sugar, well well softened and put in the the sugar, centre and exception of flour, into the exception these ingredients, with the egg. Mix these egg. paste as the paste the flour, flour, kneading the Incorporate the a pa!:te. Incorporate a soft soft paste. it hold together. enough to make it little as as possible, only enough ou! and cut as desired. Leave for 2 hours, roll roU out, pArs (18 oz., g. (18 500 g. A BABA slsA, - Ingredients. Baba hatter. Ingredients. 500 batter. PTE Baha (ll OZ., llcups) butter, g. (11 oz., generous Icups) 4|cups) flour, 300 g. 41 cups) sieved flour, yeast, I! tablespoons g. (~ tablespoons sugar, I cake) cake) yeast, 7 7 eggs, 20 g. oz., 1 eggs, 20 G OZ., (half (a oz., ~ half), I dl. dl. g. (4 and sultanas sultanas (ha cup) raisins and 100 g. If and ha If), 1 t cup) salt. (6 tablespoons, 2| teaspoons teaspoons salt. wann milk, milk, 2t scant ~ tablespoons, seant (6 t cup) warm the dough for Savarin dough. When the Proceed as as for Savarin dough. Method. Proceed Pour into and sugar. sugar. Pour raisins, sultanas sultanas and is is made, made, add add the the raisins, the moulds. filling only only one one third of the baba moulds, filling buttered baba like savarins. Bake in a hot hot oyen, oven, Iike Bake in a pour over syrup flavoured over them thern sugar sugar syrup When cooked, pour When cooked, with liqueur. with pprtrs G pAm cAreA,trx A PETITS for smaG biscuits. P' tea biscuits. 'AUX Dalter Batter for small tea (ll oZ., g. (II (18 OZ., oz., sifted flour, g. (18 4| cups) flour, 300 300 g. oz., 4i Ingredients.500 cups) sifted Ingredients. 500 g. yolks, 1 tablespoon whole egg, 4 egg egg yolks, cups) sugar, sugar, 1 whole eE& 4 l:t cups) orange blossom blossom wa water. orange ter. knead it manner, knead it in the the usual usual manner, dough in Method. Mix Mix the the dough Method. place in a a cold cold place and leave leave it it to to stand stand in twice, roll it it into into a a ball, ball, and twice, for 1 I or or2hours. 2 hours. for (l inch). t cm inch). Cut Cut a thickness of 1 c- (t out the dough to to a thickness of Roll out the dough Roll on a a baking baking tray tray cutters. Put Put them them on into biscuits biscuits with with pastry cutters. into with halved halved almonds, almonds, egg. Decorate and brush Decorate with and brush with with beaten beaten egg. peel, and oven. When When hot oyen. and bake in a a hot cherries and and candied candied peel, bake in cherries gum of gum remove from oven, brush brush with with a a solution solution of ready, remove from the the oyen, ready, and boiled boiled down down arabic, or boiJing milk mixed mixed with with sugar sugar and boiling milk ara bic, or this manner, manner, the the biscuits biscuits to a a syrupy syrupy consistency. Treatod in in Ihis to consistency. Treated keep better. keep better CREPES. Cr0pe batter batter -- See See CRPES. Crpe

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DOUILLET DOUILLET
and mix. mix. Fold Fold in pour in in the the stiffiy stiffiy beaten beaten whites, whites, and and pour in the the and melted. butter. melted. butter, Butter d manqu manqui moulds, moulds, dust pour in dust with with flour, flour, pour in the the Butter mixture and and bake bake in in a moderate oyen. a moderate oven. mixture pArs MAZARIN Mazarin batter. batter. PTE MAzARTN - Mixture Mixture of of baba baba and and Mazarin proportions. brioche dough dough in in equal equal proportions. brioche paste is This paste plain genoese genoese cake is usually usually baked baked in in plain cake tins. tins. This pAre Fine spollge sponge cake cake or or biscuit biscuit batter. batter. PTE A BISCUITS Brscurrs FINS FrNS Fine g. (18 (l 8 oz., (yolks Ingredients. 500 500 g. oz., 2i 2f, cups) cups) fine fine sugar, l0 eggs eggs (yolks sugar, 10 Ingredients. (4o2., and whitcs whites separated), g. (4 g. separated), ] 125 I cup) cup) sieved flour, 125 125 g. sieved flour, and 25 g. OZ., ] (4 OZ., (l OZ., potato flour, g. (] o2.,3 flour, 25 25 g. vanillao2.,2 tablespoons) vanilla(4 1cuP) potato 2 tablespoons) ".rp) flavoured pinch ofsalt. sugar, small of salt. small pinch flavoured sugar, yolks with Method. Blend Blend the the yolks with the the sugar, sugar, vanilla vanilla sugar, sugar, Method. and salt salt with with a a wood wooden spoon. When quite When the the mixture mixture is is quite and en spoon. smooth add add the the whites, whisked to to a a stiff stifffroth, whites, whisked and then add add smooth froth, and potato flour. flour. the flour flour and and potato the pAm Italian sponge sponge cake cake or or biscuit biscuit balter. batter. PTE A BISCUITS Brscurrs Italian ITALIENS - Ingredients. (9 OZ., Ingredimts. 250 g. (9 250 g. o2.,2 cups) lump lump sugar, sugar, ITALIENS 2 cups) (yolks and 4 eggs eggs (yo]ks and whites whites separated), g. (4 (4 OZ., separated), 125 125 g. oz., 1 I cup) 4 sieved flour, flour, salt. salt. sieved Method. Put pan, moisten Put the the sugar sugar in (6 in a a pan, moisten with with 1 dl. dl. (6 Method. tablespoons, seant scant ~ cup) water, water, cook cook to to hard hard bail bafldegree tablespoons, degree ".rp) (see SUGAR) SUGAR) and and allow allow to cool cool to half iLS to half its temperature. (see lO yolks, then Add the the yolks, flour and then the the flour and salt, salt, and and fold fold in in the Add stifly beaten whites. stiffiy beaten whites. pAre ft. Ordinary spooge sponge cake cake or or biscuit biscuit balter. batter. PTE A BISCUITS Brsctrrrs Ordinary (9 OZ., oRDINATRES g. (9 generous cup) 250 g. cup) fine fine oz., generous ORDINAJRES Ingredients. 250 - Ingredients. (yolks and (5 oz., sugar, 8 8 eggs g. (5 eggs (yolks whites separated), 150 g. oz., li lf, and whites separated), ]50 sugar, cups) sifted flour, salt. sifted flour, cups) Method. Proceed as described in the recipe for for Fine sponge Melhod. Procced as Fine sponge cake or or hiscuil biscuit halter. batter. cake pArs ft. Reims sponge sponge cake or biscuit A BISCUITS Brscurrs DE Reims cake or biscuit batter. baller. PTE REIMs g. (1] OZ., Ingredients. 12 eggs, eggs, 300 300 g. oz., l{ cups) fine Ingredients. 12 ]~ cups) REIMS (6 OZ., g. (6 sugar, 175 175 g. oz., cups) sieved sieved flour, sugar, cups) ftour, 1 tablespoon vanilla-flavoured sugar, small small pinch vanilla-flavoured sugar, pinch salt. Method. sugar, 12 egg egg whites and and l0 into a Melhod. Put Put the the sugar, JO yolks yolks into bowl whisk over over a a low bowl and and wlsk low heat heat until until the the mixture mixture becomes firm and smooth. firm. and smooth. Add Add the the flour flour and vanilla vanilla sugar. Mix Mix with with a wooden spoon. a wood en spoon. Swiss sponge sponge cake cake or or biscuit Swiss biscuit batter. baUer. pArs PTE A Brscurr BISCUIT DE DE srvolr-Ingredients.500 (18 oz., g. (18 2f cups) fine sugar, sugar, 175 g. SA VOIE Ingredients. 500 g. OZ., 2;\ g. (6 cups) sieved sieved flour, (6 o2.,1| OZ., 11: cups) flour, 175 g. g. (6 (6 o2.,1| oz., li cups) cornstarch (cornflour), 14 (separated), ] tablespoon eggs (separated). (cornflour), 14 eggs tablespoon vanillavanillaflavoured sugar. flavoured sugar. Method. sugar and and the egg Melhod. Blend Blend the the sugar cgg yolks yolks together in in a bowl until the the mixture mixture forms forms a a ribbon. ribbon. Add Add the the flour, flour, bowl until cornstarch, cornstarch, vanilla vanilla sugar sugar and and stiffiy stiffly whisked whisked egg egg whites. Mix Mix quiekly. quickly. Butter sprinkle with Butter a a baking baking tin, tin, sprink]e with cornstarch comstarch and pour pour in the the mixture, mixture, filling filling two two thirds thirds of of the the tin. tin. Bake Bake in a slow slow oven. oyen. Sponge Sponge cake cake or or biscuit biscuit batter, batter, whisked whisked over heat. hea!. pArn PTE A ft. Brscurrs BISCUITS suR SUR r-E LE reu FEl! - Break Break 12 12 eggs eggs into into a pan. pan. Add Add 500 g. g. (18 salt. Keeping (l8 oz., OZ., 2f 2i cups) cups) fine fine sugar sugar and a a small small pinch pinch of ofsa]t. Kecping the the pan pan on on the the edge edge of of the the burner, burner, whisk wh.isk the the mixture mixture until until it it becomes becomes very very firm firm and and smooth. smooth. Still Still whisking, whisking, add add 225 225 g. g. (8 (8 oz., OZ., 1| 10\ cups) cups) potato potato flour. flour. Sponge Sponge fingers fillgers batter. batter. pAru PTE A Brscurr BISCUIT A LA cunrrn ClJILLER Ingredients.500 sugar, 375 g. Ingredienls. 500 g. g. (18 (18 oz.,2tcups) OZ., 2~cups) fine finesugar, g. (13 (13 oz., oz., 3| 3;\ cups) cups) sieved sieved flour, flour, 16 16 eggs cggs (separated), (separated), 1 tablespoon tablespoon orange orange blossom blossom water. water. Method. Melhod. Mix Mix the the egg egg yolks yolks and and the the sugar sugar in in a a bowl, bowl, creaming creaming the the mixture mixture until unti! it it forms forms a a ribbon. ribbon. Add Add the the flavouring, flavouring, mix mix in the the flour, flour, and and fold fold in in the the stiffiy stiffly whisked whisked egg egg whites. whites. Pour lf-cm. (f-inch) Pour the the mixture mixture into into a a pastry-bag pastry-bag with with a aIt-cm. (~-inch) nozzle. nozzle. Pipe Pipe the the biscuits biscuits onto onto strong strong paper paper and and sprinkle sprinklc with with plenty plenty of of fine fine sugar. sllgar. Shake Shake off off the the surplus surplus sugar by by lifting lifting the the ends ends of of the the paper. paper. Moisten the (which the biscuits with a a few few drops biscuits with drops of of cold cold water water (WhlCh Moisten will ensure ensure beading) beading) and and bakc bake in in a very slow a very slow oyen. oven. will

(Pry au DOUILLET or or COCHON COCHON AU plre) AU PRE PDRE (Pig ru pre) DOUILLET Popular dish dish of of an an eartier earlier age. age. Pierre Lune, esquire Pierre de de Lune, esquire of Poplliar of household of (173,1-1803) gives the household gives of the the Prince Prince de de Rohan Rohan (1734--1803) the following recipe; the folJowing recipe: the 'Cut the pig into pieces. Blanch pieces and the pig into pieces. Blanch the the pieces and interlard interlard 'Cut pork fat partly from partly with pork fat eut cut partly from the the outer outer layer layer and and partly with from the the beJly. belly. Put Put them them in in a a cloth cloth and and season season with with salt, salt, from pepper, whole green lemons cloves, nutmeg, nutmeg, bay whole c]oves, bay leaves, leaves, green pepper, and spring spring onions. onions. Cook pot with Cook in in a a pot with stock stock and and a little a IiU]e and white wine. wine. Make Make sure sure tbat that the the finished finished dish dish is is highly white seasoned. Leave to to stand stand until until ]ukewarm. lukewarm. Serve Serve with seasoned. with slices slices of lemon.' oflemon.'

DOUZ,IL or DOUSlL DOUSILfor the wood wooden spigot DOUZIL - French word for en spigot plug the used to to plug the ho hole in the the vat vat from from which which the the wine wine is is used le in (See CONFRRiES extracted. (Sec CONFRERIES VINEUSES, la la Confrrie Confririe extracted. des tire-douzils.) tire-douzils.\ des DOVE. COLOMBE coLoMBE DOVE.
See PIGEON. - Sec

and is is very sweet. sweet. (See PEAR.) and

DOYENNE pear which of pcar which melts in the the mouth mouth DOYENN melts in - Variety of
DRAFF. DRCHE onicne - By-product By-product of barley DRAFF. barley used used in in brewing. It is also used for fodder. usod for It DRAGOhIET. DOUCETTE DoucETrE - Another for corn corn salad DRAGONET. Another name name for (q.v.). (q.v.).

DRAINING. GOUTTER 6courrm. - Draining Draining off off excess excess liquid DRAINING. liquid from foodstuffs which which have been washed, washed, or blanched in in boiling water and cooled under running running water.
(poultry, game, and DRESSING (poultry, and fish). fisb). HABTLLAcE HABILLAGE - Poultry game are or winged winged game are dressed dressed by or by being being plucked, plucked, drawn, singed, trimmed, trimmed, and and trussed. trussed. The dressing of fish consists singed, dressing of fish consists gutting, and scaling, gutting, and trimming. of scaling,

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DRINKING DRINKING STRAW.

cHALr.nilEAU Hollow stem ofstraw, of straw. CHALUMEAlJ - Hollow glass, metal, papr, paper, or plastic used used for drinking drinking cold drinks.

DRIPPING DRIPPING PAN. PA.:'I/. rtcsEFRIrE LCHEFRITE - Rectangular Rectangular pan, pan, usually of a spit. spit. The juices of metal, metal, placed under under food food roasted roasted on on a juices of of the roast drip drip into the pan.

DROMEDARY. DROMEDARY. nnou.loArRn DROMADAfRE - Camel (q.v.) with only one

hump.

DRUM. especially DRUM. EsrAcNoN ESTAGNON - Container Container in which liquids, especially
oil, are transported. transported. DRUPE DRUPE - French term for a fruit with a single single stone. putting putting it it on the stove for a few seconds. Thus green vegevcgetables boiled boiled in in salt water are dried or, more more accurately, dehydrated when they are stood for a very short short time over a a hot hot flame flame to to evaporate excess moisture absorbed by by the the vegetables vegetables during cooking. cooking. When they they have have been been dried, the vegetables vegetables are tossed tossed in in butter. bu 11er. In In France, France, the the term term dessicher desscher is is also also used used of of cooking cooking
panadas panadas and dough dough on the the stove. stove. The The term term 'drying' 'drying' is is not not synonymous synOn)TI10US with with 'reducing', 'reducing', which refers refers only on]y to to the the process process of boiling boiling down down certain certain liquids liquids so that that they they are reduced reduced in in volume. volume.

DRYING. DRYING. orssfcnm. DESSCHER - Dehydrating Dehydrating a solid solid of any kind by by

u I

DUBARRY DUBARRY (A (A LA) LA) - Garnish Gamish for for meat mcat which which comprises comprises small smaU flowerets flowerets of of cauliflower cauliflower covered covered with Mornay Mornay sauce sauce (see (sec SAUCE), SAUCE), sprinkled with with grated grated cheese cheese and and breadbreadcrumbs. crumbs, and and browned. browned.

DUBLIN DUBLIN BAY BA Y PRAWNS PRA WNS (Italian, (Italian, scampi). scampi). LANGousrrNE LANGOUSTINE 320

Common Corn mon names names for for the the Nephrops Nephrops norvegicus. norvegicus. This This shellfish, shellfish,

DUCK
the size of a prawn, prawn, is orange in colour with whitewhiteabout the cooking. tipped claws and legs. It does not change colour in cooking. tipped They are are prepared prepared in in the the same same way way as as shrimps shrimps and They hors-d'oeuvre. served as hors-d'oeuvre. AIl recipes for freshwater crayfish, and shellfish shellfish generally, All are suitable suitable for for Dublin Dublin Bay Bay prawns, prawns, which which can can also also be are prepared d I'amiricaine l'amricaine or d la bordelaise. bordelaise.
Rouen duck the Rouen exceeds exceeds 2 2 ke. kg. @i (4~ lb.) lb.) in in weight, weight, whilst whilst the (5+ lb.). 2ike. weighs weighs about 2~ kg. (5~ quality The Roum Rouen duckling owes its reputation reputation to the fine quality It is of its flesh ftesh and and also to the method by which it it is is killed. It is guinea-fowl, all other fowl (except guinea-fowl, smothered, smotbered, not bled as are ail like shot, like is often shol, which in the south-western part of France is game). The fact none of its blood before being fact that it loses loses none gives red and and gives stay red duck stay cooked makes the flesh ftesh of the Rouen duck connoisseurs. flavour much prized by connoisseurs. it a special ftavour

Duchesse d'Angoulme Duchesse d'Angoulme pears

DUCHESSE an excellent excellent table - Winter pear which makes an fruit. fruit.
preparations, (A LA) DUCHESSE ( - Name given to various preparations, especiallya A TOES, potatoes. (See POT POTATOES, especially a method of of preparing potatoes. Duchess potatoes.) Duchess

DUCHESSE MIXTURE blended with Pur6e of potatoes blended - Pure (see POTATOES) egg yolk. yolk. It is made Duchess potatoes (see made into into Duchess and and into borders. savoury cases, etc. DUCHESSES fours which as follows: follows: are made made as Petits fours which are - Petits (21 oz., Pound g. (21sweet almonds almonds 60 g. oz., 1cup) sweet in a mortar 60 Pound in a mortar + cup) with quantity of hazelnuts, I egg egg hazelnuts, and and blend blend with with 1 with the the same same quantity (2 oz., white. g. (2 white. Add g. (Il (ll oz., Add 300 oz' fine sugar, 50 g. 300 g. oz., lt l{ cups) cups) fine sugar, 50 sugar, and (2 oz.) g.Q 50 g. oz.) chocolate. chocolate. vanilla-flavoured.sugar, and 50 i cup) vanilla-ftavoured Add Pipe thoroughly. Pipe Add to egg whites whites and and mix mix thoroughly. to this this mixture mixture 3 3 egg into little balls on in a a moderate moderate oyen. oven. on a a baking sheet. sheet. Bake Bake in

DUCK. many bird of of which which many DUCK. CANARD cANARD -- Web-footed Web-footed water water bird species domestic ducks ducks are are bred, bred, Varieties of species are are known. known. Varieties of domestic some plumage. of their their plumage. some for food, others others because of the beauty of Their (le canard sauvage), which which is is Their ancestor ancestor is is the the wild duck duck (le canard sauvage), found in North Africa. Africa. America and and North in Europe, Europe, Asia, Asia, North America In and Nantes Nantes ducks ducks Roum and French classical classical cookery, cookery, Rouen In French enjoy of ducks ducks types of different types the highest highest esteem. esteem. The The different enjoy the raised variety of of food incIude include Duclair, Duclair, a a variety raised in in France France for for food Rouen a Rouen duck; duck; Barbary Barbary duck duck which, which, when when mated mated with with a Rouen produces the the mulard is bred bred which is Rouen duck, duck, produces mulard duck duck which foie gras. specially gras. production of for the specially for the production offoie The (which in Barbary duck in French French IS is also also called called Canard Canard The Barhary duck (which d'Inde) raised mainly mainly in in the the southern southern and and south-eastern south-eastern is raised d'Inde) is regions is somesomeregions of of France. Its ftesh flesh is is rather rather mediocre mediocre and and is France. Its times young birds birds are are fairly fairly times too too musky musky to to be be eaten. eaten. The The young good good to have a strong odour odour to eat, eat, the old are are tough and have a strong the old tough and which, have acquired acquired their their which, it it is is said, said, they they develop develop after after they they have red red wattles. wattles. The fine, delicately delicately The Nantes Nantes duck duck is is a a magnificent magnificent bird bird with with fine, ftavoured flavoured ftesh. smaller in in size Rouen duck. duck. the Rouen flesh. It It is is smaller size than than the When hardly ever fully developed, that is is at 4 months, months, it it hardly ever at 4 When fully developed, that 321 32r

are rarely killed without without bleeding are killed Ducks which which are Ducks bleeding are Killd in marketed in the U.S.A. Killed in this this manner, they should development of of the development day to to avoid avoid the same day cooked the the same be be cooked dangerous toxins. food are are Aylesbury duck, Other breeds of ducks raised for food Other and Roum duck duck and to the Rouen has a a certain similarity to a bird which which has a greatly appreciate; black Cayuga, the black appreciate; the English greatly the English which the which a very very Great American duck, duck, and and is is a called the Great which is which is also called a small small bird Peking duck, duck, a large bird flesh; Peking bird with delicate ftesh; with delicate large yellow feet feet and and bill, bill, which and bright yellow with with yellow plumage and in quality. is excellent excellent in is ke. at about about 2-t 2tr kg. are sold sold at ducks are In the the U.S.A. U.S.A. domestic ducks In (4 lb.). (5+ lb.), l* kg. kg. (4 lb.). Wild Wild ducks ducks are are lb.), ducklings ducklings at at about about li (5-t hunting season. The most most during the season. The the hunting large numbers during shot in in large is the the Canvasback. prized is the by the ducks can be determined determined by The age and tenderness of ducks pinions and should be and under-bill their pinions these should ftexibility flexibility of their - these back easily. easily. to be bent back soft enough enough to be bent generally thought that the the duck, duck, thought that It is is generally Duck Duck breeding. breeding. It places raised in in places be raised only be can only an aquatic animal, can being being an aquatic animal, opinion is is banks. This This opinion river banks. or on on river near water situated situated near water or poultry-breeders have have proved. as many many poultry-breeders erroneous, erroneous, as mainly around around is raised raised mainly duckling is Rouen duckling The The famous famous Rouen The you will river or or even even a a spring. spring. The find a a river will not find Yvetot, Yvetot, where you ducks pdtis are from the the ftesh flesh of of ducks made from celebrated duck pts are made celebrated duck running water. water. long way from raisd a from running raised a long parts of France south-western France of south-western In and other other parts In Languedoc Languedoc and gras, of foie the manufacture for the manufacture of where ducks are are bred bred for big ducks where big foie gras, geese. This preserved This preserved like that of geese. their ftesh fat, like that of flesh is preserved in fat, gastonomes even more than than the the confit confit even more duck by gastonomes duck is is esteemed esteemed by (presewed goose). are preserved in in brine. brine. goose). Mulard Mulard ducks ducks are d'oie d'oie (preserved pdtis are from the the are made made from The terrines and and pts famous truffied trufred terrines The famous livers se ducks. livers of of the these ducks. described as as caneton caneton always described is always In duck is In French French cookery, cookery, duck (duckling). (duckling). 'Clean and and D',q,truFEnA -- 'Clean DuckJing cANEToN D'ALBUFRA Duckliry d'Albufra. d'Albuf6ra. CANETON pieces of of uncooked uncooked young ducklings. 12 pieces truss Cut 12 2 very very young ducklings. Cut truss 2 (6 oz., g. (6 Melt 175 175 g. oz., slices. Melt Bayonne heart-shaped slices. Bayonne ham ham into into heart-shaped put in the ham, ham, then then in first first the i* cup) a casserole, casserole, put butter in in a cnp) best best butter garni (q.v.), (q.v.), an onion an onion the bouquet garni a bouquet and add add a the 2 2 ducklings, ducklings, and glass of of Madeira. Madeira. studded wine glass 2 cloves, cloves, and and -t studded with with 2 I wine paper, bring 'Cover with piece of bring to to the the boil, boil, 'Coyer of buttered buttered paper, with a a piece glowing (q.v.) (a (a brick and paillasse (q.v.) oven with with glowing put on brick oyen a paillasse and put on a charcoal), ove and casserole, below the the casserole, hot coals above and below with hot coals ab charcoal), with are without the ducklings ducklings are too lively. lively, so so that that the heat being being too without the the heat turn the the cooked After 20 20 minutes minutes turn fried. After being fried. cooked without without being garni. bouquet garni. ion and ducklings and the the bouquet remove the the on onion ducklings and and remove ducklings, Leave drain the the ducklings, minutes, then then drain Leave for for another 20 minutes, another 20 The remove serving dish. dish. The arrange on on aa serving string and and arrange remove trussing trussing string of birds the slices slices of with the Garnish with a lovely lovely colour. colour. Garnish should be be a birds should juices, add pan juices, ham. add 2 2 tabletablefat from from the the pan surplus fat ham. Skim Skim off off surplus (see SAUCE) (3 tablespoons) and spoons sauce (see SAUCE) and Financiire sauce spoons (3 tablespoons) Financire 100 (4 oz.) peeled mushrooms. this sauce sauce g. (4 mushrooms. Pour Pour this small peeled 100 g. oz.) very very small (From L'art over ou la cuisine cuisine francaise L'art de de la ducklings.' (From over the the ducklings.' francaise au XIX XIX sicle.) siicle.) Duckling Braise A L'ALSACIENNE t'lrslcnNNe -- Braise I'alsacienne. CANETON cANEToN Duckling i l'alsacienne. a dish, and and surround surround it on on a a serving serving dish, arrange it a Nantes Nantes duckling, duckling arrange with with separately with has been been braised braised separately which has with sauerkraut sauerkraut which streaky this of the the dish dish with with this the border border of Garnish the streaky bacon. bacon. Garnish

DUCK DUCK
pieces, and bacon cut rectangular pieces, and 6 6 smoked into rectangular smoked Strasbourg cut into Strasbourg bacon poached in sausages poached in water. water. sausages liquor, spoon Strain the the braising braising liquor, spoon sorne some over duckling over the the duckling Strain and serve serve the rest separately. the rest seoaratelv. and (hbt). BALLOTTINE Ballottfure of of duckling duckling (hot). n,lrrorrrNE DE DE CANETON cANEroN -BaUottine Bone a Nantes duckling a Nantes duckling and and carefully carefully remove remove aU all the the flesh, flesh, Bone leaving only only the Remove aU skin. Remove the skin. all sinews sinews from from flesh. flesh. Dice Dice leaving the fillets fillets and and chop chop the rest of the rest of the the meat finely with meat finely with an anequal equal the weight of of fresh fresh fat fat bacon, bacon, half half of its weight lean veal, veal, of its weight of of !ean weight (3 oz.) g. (3 (q.v.). panada (q.v.). and75 oz.) of of panada and 75 g. Pound the the whole whole mixture mixture in in a yolks. a mortar, mortar, adding adding 4 4 egg egg yolks. Pound pepper, and Season with with salt, salt, pepper, and spices. spices. Rub Rub this this forcemeat forcemeat Season (5 oz.) g. (5 a sieve. sieve. Add Add 150 gras (duck's (duck's 150 g. oz.) uncookedfoie uncooked/oie gras through a liver) cut cut in in large large dice dice and and briskly briskly tossed g. tossed in in butter, butter, 150 150 g. liver) (5 oz.) oz.) diced diced truffles truffies and and the the diced diced duck duck breast breast fillets. fillets. Add Add (5 (3 tablespoons) 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) brandy brandy and and blend blend weil. well. 2 Spread the the duck's duck's skin skin on on the piece of the table, table, on on a a piece of muslin muslin Spread which has has been been soaked soaked in in cold cold water water and and wrung wrung out. out. Stuff Stuff which the skin skin with the the forcemeat forcemeat and and roll roll into into a a ballottine. ballottine. Secure Secure with string string at at both ends ends and and in in the the middle. middle. with Poach the the ballottine in prepared by in stock stock prepared by using using a veal Poach a veal knuckle and and the the bones bones and and trimmings trimmings of of the the duckling. duckling. knuckle for about about 1 lf Cook for hours, unwrap, glaze in unwrap, and and glaze in the the oyen. Cook t hours, oven. Garnish and and spoon spoon over over a little of a !ittle Garnish of the the braising braising liquor liquor which has has been been boiled boiled down down and and strained. strained. Serve which Serve the the rest rest separately. separately. of duckling duckling may be Hot ballottine of most of be served served with with most of the the garnishes (q.v.) (q.v.) indicated indicated for for braised poultry. braised or garnishes or broiled broild poultry. The following are are the the most most suitable: suitable: chtelaine, The chdtelaine, chipolata, chipolata, godard, braised braised chestnuts, forestire, godard, chestnuts, braised braised lettuce, lettuce, or or forestiire, other vegetables braised or cooked cooked in butter. butter. (cold). BALLOTTINE Ballottine of of duckJing ducklfug (cold). BaUottine BALLoTTTNE DE DE CANETON cANEToN -Make in in the the same same way Make way as as hot hot baIJottine, greater ballottine, but but a a greater duck's liver liver and quantity of duck's and truffles truffies are are added to the the forceforceadded to meat. After cooking, cooking, unwrap After unwrap the the ballottine, ballottine, then then wrap wrap once once again in the same cloth very tightly, and and put to to cool cool under a a press. glaze with To serve, serve, unwrap, press. To unwr.ap, glaze with liquid liquid aspic aspic jelly, arrange on on a a dish, and arrange and surround with chopped chopped jelly. Duckling DuckJing i la bordelaise. bordelaise. CANETON ceNrroN A LA rn BORDELAISE nononrnrsn -- Stuff Stuff a duckling duckling with fine pork forcemeat mixed with the chopped chopped duck's garlic, 1 duck's liver, Iiver, a a little little shallot, shallot, garlic, I tablespoon chopped chopped parsley, blanched and and chopped chopped olives; olives; seasoned seasoned with with salt, pepper pepper and and spices; and bound with 1 I egg. the duckling and Truss the and fry fry in in butter in in a a fireproof dish dish until it is golden on ail g. (18 (18 oz.) white, firm all sides. sides. Add 500 g. firm cpes which have been been trimmed, cipes which have trimmed, washed, washed, lightly lightly tossed tossed in in and seasoned seasoned with salt and pepper. Cook in a oil and and pepper. a hot hot oyen. oven. When the duckling is done, remove remove trussing string and put and put back into the dish. Pour over 4 or 5 tablespoons tablespoons thickened brown veal gravy, sprinkle with chopped parsley and and serve serve the dish dish in which it was cooked. in the Braised duckling duckJing with various garnishes. CANETON Braised cANEToN BRAIS sRArs6 -large Nantes duckling and put it into a braising pan Truss a large a foundation foundation of offresh bacon rinds, 1 on a fresh bacon I carrot carrot and and 1 I mediumon ion sliced and tossed in butter. Add a bouquet garni sized onion (q.v.) of of parsley, thyme and bay leaf. Season. Cook with the (q.v.) 15 minutes. When the duckling is is browned lid on for about 15 aIl sides, moisten with l| I-!- dl. dl. (f (t pint, 3 ~ cup) white wine. on all 3-!- dl. dl. (generous (generous I -!- pint, pint, 1| I-!- cups) Boil down, and and add add 3+ Boil thickened brown brown veal veal or or chicken chicken stock. stock. Bring Bring to slightly thickened the boil boil on on the the stove. stove, then then cook cook in in a a hot hot oven oyen for about 1 the I hour the pan covered. covered. with the Drain the the duckling, remove rem ove trussing string, arrange on a Drain a the braising braising serving dish, and garnish. Boil down and strain the serving liquor, spoon a little little of of it it over the duck and serve serve the rest rest liquor, separately. separately. Nantes braised braised duckling duckling may may be be served served with with all ail the the Nantes

Braised BraisedNantes Nantesduckling duckling

garnishes (q.v.) (q.v.) recommended garnishes recommended for for braised braisedand and broiled broiled poultry. The garnishes most poultry. The garnishes most suitable suitable for for this this dish dish are: are: fermire, I angue do c ienne, macdoine, ma ci do ine, toulousaine. t ou I ous ain e. fe r m ii r e, languedocienne, Braised Braisod duckling duckling can can also also be be accompanied accompanied by by carrots, carrots, turnips, ail glazed turnips, celeriac, celeriac, cucumbers, glazed onions, peas, cucumbers, sm onions, peas, small tomatoes, tomatoes, etc., etc., sauted saut6ed in in butter butter or or braised. braised. Casserole garnishes. CANETON Casserole of of duckling duckliry with with various various garnishes. cANEToN EN EN CASSEROLE(Ser,CHICKEN.) like Chicken cAssERoLE - Prepare Prepare like C hi c k encasserole. c as s e r o I e.(See CH IC KEN. ) Serve femme, paysanne paysanne or with bonne bonnefemme, garnish Serve with or sorne some other other garnish which which should should be be cooked cooked with with the the bird bird in in aa casserole. casserole. Duckling Duckling la chipolata. i la chipolata. CANETON cANEroN A LA LA CHIPOLATA cHrpoLATA - - Braise Braise the the duckling. duckling. When When it it is is nearly nearly done, done, drain drain and and remove remove trussing trussing string. string. Put Put it it back garnish back in in the the casserole casserole with with aa garnish of of 10 l0 braised glazd onions, braised chestnuts, chestnuts, 10 l0 small smallglazed onions, 10 l0 lean lean rashers rashers of of blanched blanched and lightly fried fried bacon, and lightly bacon, and and 18 18 carrots carrots cut cut down down to glazed. Boil to the the size size of of olives olives and and glazed. Boil down down the the braising liquor, strain, pour over braising liquor, strain, pour over the the duckling, duckling, and and finish finish cooking. cooking. Add Add JO l0 small small chipolata chipolata sausages sausages cooked cooked in in butter. butter. Serve garnish arranged Serve the the duckling duckling surrounded surrounded with the garnish arranged with the in groups. Pour separate groups. Pour over over the the sauce. in separate sauce. Cold CoH duckling. dnckling. CANETON cANEroN FROID FRorD -- Duckling prepared Duckling can can be be prepared in in any (see CHICKEN). any manner manner suitable suitable for for cold cold chicken chicken (see CHICKEN). DuckJing Duckliry with with olives. olives. CANETON cANEroN AUX olrvEs -- Braise AUx OLIVES Braise the the duckling, duckling, cooking cooking it quarters done. it until until three three quarters done. Strain the Strain the braising liquor, put the liquor, put g. the duckling duckling back back in in it it and and add 250 g. add 250 (9 (9 oz., l| cups) oz' I-!cups) stoned, stoned, blanched blanched olives. olives. Finish Finish cooking cooking on on a a slow slow heat. heat. Duckling Duckling can can also also be cooked with be cooked with stuffed stuffed olives. olives. DuckJing Ducklfury t l'orange l'orange or or la bigarade I la bigarade 1. I. CANETON clNsroN A L'ORANGE, L'oRANGE, l, LA rA BIGARADE sIclnADE -- Braise Braise a Nantes duckling. a Nantes duckling. Drain, Drain, remove remove trussing trussing string string and and arrange arrange on on a a serving serving dish. dish. Pour Pour over over bigarade prepared in bigarade sauce sauce prepared in the the following following manner. manner. Strain Strain the the braising hraising liquor liquor into into a a small small saucepan saucepan in in which which 2 lumps 2 lumps of of sugar, sugar, moistened (3 tablespoons) with 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 moistened with tablespoons) viilegar, previously been vinegar, have have previously been cooked cooked to to caramel caramel degree. degree. Boil down. Add Add the the juice of of 1 I orange orange and and -!-Iemon. Boil down down I lemon. Boil again again and and strain. strain. Add Add the the blanched blanched and and drained drainod rind I rind of of 1 orange orange and and -!-Iemon (q.v.). shredded into into a fine julienne (q.v.). a fine I lemon shredded Duckling ir l'orange l'orange or la bigarade i la bigarade IL IL CANETON or caNsroN A L'ORANGE, r.'oRANcE, A LA rA BIGARADE src.dnA.on -- Fry Fry the the duckling duckling in in butter, butter, keeping keeping it little it a a little underdone. underdone. Drain, Drain, remove remove trussing trussing string, string, and and arrange arrange on on a a serving dish. Dilute (6 tablespoons, Dilute the the pan juices with I dl. with 1 dl. (6 tablespoons, scant scant -!+ cup) t cups) (+ pint, pint, 1 cup) white white wine. wine. Add Add 3 3 dl. dl. (-!l| cups) clear clear veal veal stock stock or Demi-glace sauce (see SA UCE). Add sugar and vinegar or Demi-glace sauce (see SAUCE). Add sugar and vinegar cooked cooked to to caramel caramel degree, degree, as as described described above, above, and and allow allow to for a few moments. to boil boil for a few moments. Add Add thejuice of 1 I orange, orange, t lemon the juice of I lemon and ove. and finish finish off off as as described described ab above. Gamish peeled slices Garnish with slices of with peeled of orange. orange. Sauce Sauce for for Duckling Duckling I'orange should d l'orange should be be made made of of the rind the rind of bitter oranges. of bitter oranges.
322 322

DUCK DUCK
pArfs DE pATE. Duck pts. pfltes. PTS or CANETON cANEroN-- See See P Duck T. pETrrsPOIS pors -* Brown Duckliry witb peasI. with peas f. CANETON caNrroN AUX Aux PETITS Brown Duckling together in in butter butter 12 l2small small onions g.(7 (7oz.) onions and 200 g. and200 oz.)blanched, blanched, together diced bacon. bacon. Remove Remove these these from panand from the the pan and in in the thesame same diced butter sear sear a Nantes duckling. a trussed trussed Nantes duckling. Brown Brown it it weIl wellon onail all butter sides. and and drain. drain. sides, pan juices with Dilute the the panjuices (6 tablespoons, with 1 I dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, scant scant1-l cup) cup) Dilute white stock. (scant I pint, stock. Add Add 2+dl. dl. (scant pint, generous generous cup) cup) veal veal white
glazed more quickly. Cook more quickly. Cookon onaabrisk briskfire. fire.Have Haveready glazed ready24 24 smallonions, onions, half halfcooked cookedin inbutter. butter. small When the theduckling ducklingis ishalf halfcooked cookeddrain drainititand When andstrain strain the the liquor. Put Put the panand the duckling duckling back back into intothe liquor. thepan andadd addthe the turnips, onions onions and andsauce. sauce.Finish Finishcooking cookingin inaaslow turnips, slowoyen. oven. garnishthe To serve, serve, garnish pourthe thebird birdand andpour To thesauce sauceover overit. it. pipinghot. Serve piping hot. Serve

and chicken chicken stock put the stock and and put the duckling duckling into into this this liquor. liquor. and (If, pints, Add 1 I litre litre (Ii pints, generous generous quart) quart) fresh gardur peas, fresh garden peas, the the Add pieces of onions, pieces garni (q.v.). of bacon, bacon,and (q.v.). Season and a a bouquet bouquet garni Season onions, and add add 1 I teaspoon teaspoon sugar. gently with sugar. Simmer Simmer gently with the the lid lid on. on. and When cooked, cooked, drain drain the the duckling, duckling, arrange arrange on on aa serving serving When dish, and and surround surround with peas. Boil juices with the the peas. pan juices Boil down down the the pan dish, pour over and pour over the the bird. bird. and A lettuce lettuce shredded shredded into (q.v.), or into a a chiffonnade chiffonnade (q.v.), or left left whole whole A and tied tied with with string, string, can can be peas. If be added added to to the the peas. If left left whole, whole, and it should should be quarters when be cut cut into into quarters when serving, serving, and and arranged arranged it peas. on the the peas. on

21

Duckling with peas (Scarnari) (S c arnati) Duckling

the fireproof casserole, a fireproof keeping it it a the duckling duckling in in a casserole, keeping a little Add generous quart) fresh garden peas, fresh garden Add l'litre f litre (lf (li pints, pints, generOl!S (see PEAS). Leave to infuse for a cooked d la la frangaise franaise (see few a few moments without without allowing to boil. Roast duckling. cANEroN CANETON n0n RTI and - Truss the duckling and roast it it in in the the oven oyen or or on on a a spit. spit. For For cooking times times see see CULINARY CULINARY METHODS, METHODS, Average Average cooking cooking timesfor roasts. roasts. Duckling Duckling with sauerkraut. CANEToN CANETON A r,c LA cHoucRouTB CHOUCROUTE This This is prepared in the same way as Duckling Duckling d l'alsacienne. l'alsacienne. Surround Surround with with sauer.kraut sauerkraut braisd braised in in the the usual usual manner. Garnish with with pieces pieces of streaky streaky bacon bacon (cooked (cooked with with the sauerkraut) sauerkraut) and and saveloys, saveloys, Strasbourg or or Frankfurt Frankfurt sausages. sausages. Pour Pour the the liquor liquor in which the duckling was braised over the
bird. bird. Ducklirry Duckling with turnips turnips @raised). (braised). cANEroN CANETON AUx AUX NAvErs NAVETS Brown Brown a trussed trussed Nantes Nantes duckling duckling in butter. butter. When When it is is brown brown on on all aU sides, sides, take take it it out out of of the the pan and drain. Remove Remove the the butter butter from from the the pan pan and make make a a sauce of lj 11 dl. (| (i pint, cup) dry dry white white wine wine and and 4 dl. dl. (i pint, pint, scint scant 2'cups) 2 cups) 3 cup) espagnole espagnole sauce sauce (sen, (see SAUCE) or or veal veal stock. stock. Add a a bouquet bouquet garni (q.v.). Place Place the the duckling duckling in in the the sauce and and simmer simmer garni (q.v.). gently. gently. Put the the butter butter in in another another pan pan and and add add to to it 3 3 or or 4 4 small small Put turnips, cut cut down down to to a a uniform uniform size. size. Season Season and and sprinkle sprinkle turnips, will enable enable thern them to to be be with I 1 tablespoon tablespoon sugar, sugar, which which will with
underdone.

pETrrs POIS pors - Cook Duckling II. CANETON c,c,NrroN AUX AUx PETITS Duckling with peas peas n. -

ROUEN DUCK. DUCK. CANARD cANARD ROUENNAIS RouENNArs-- See ROUEN noteunder Seenote under DUCK. DUCK. Ballottine of of Rouen Rouen duckling. duckling. BALLOTTINE BaUottine BALLoTTTNE DE DECANETON cANEToN DE DE RoUEN -- Prepare Prepare like like Ballottine ROUEN Ballottine of ofduckling. duckling. Rouen duckling ducklirg I la labigarade. Rouen bigarade. CANETON cANEroNROUENNAIS noueNNln ALA r-^A BIcARADE -- Prepare Prepare in ineither either of givanfor of the the ways BIGARADE waysgiven for Duckling Duckling I'orange. d l'orange. Rouen duckling duckling is is rarely rarely braised, braised, but Rouen but itit can canin in fact fact be be cooked in in this this manner mannerand and is cooked isexcellent. excellent. Rouen duckling duckling au auchambertin. chambertin. CANETON Rouen cexeroN ROUENNAIS RouENNArsAU AU cHAMBERTTN -- Braise Braise the CHAMBERTIN theduckling duckling in in liquor liquor based basedon onred red wine. When When it it is is nearly nearly cooked, wine. to another cooked, put put it pan.Add it in into another pan. Add g. (4 (4 oz.) 125 g. pork or oz.) pork bacon cut or bacon 125 cut in in large largedice, dice, blanched blanched and and lightly fried, fried, and and 24 24 mushroom lightly peeled and mushroom caps, caps, peeled and tossed tossed in in butter. butter. Boil down down the the braising Boil braising Iiquor liquor in pan, strain, in the the other other pan, strain, pour over over the the duckling pour duckling and and finish finish cooking cooking in in the the oyen ovenwith with the lid lid on. on. the Rouen Rouen duckling ducklirry in in Champagne. Champagne. CANETON cANEToN ROUENNAIS RouENNArs AU AU CHAMPAGNE cHAMeAGNE -- Fry Fry the the duckling duckling in in butter. butter. When When nearly nearly put it cooked, put cooked, it into into an an earthenware earthenware dish. dish. Dilute pan Dilute the the pan juices with (| pint, pint, li juices with 3 3 dl. dl. (1 l| cups) cups) dry dry Champagne, Champagne, add add aa few tablespoons few tablespoons thickened thickened brown pour over brown veal veal stock, stock, and and pour over the the duckling. duckling. Finish Finish cooking cooking in in the the oyen, oven. with with the the lid lid on. on. Chaud-froid Chaud-froil of of Rouen Rouen duckling. duckling. CHAUD-FROID cHAUD-FRorD DE DE CANETON cANEToN DE ROUEN DE RoUEN Cook the the duckling duckling in in the the oyen, oven, keeping keeping it it a a little little - Cook underdone. underdone. Remove Remove the the legs legs and and cut cut the the breast breast fiUets fillets into into strips. strips. Using Using the the carcase carcase and and the the trimmings, trimmings, roughly roughly chopped, prepare a chopped, prepare (se SAUCE, a brown brown Chaud-froid Chaud-froid sauce sauce (see SAUCE, Compound jelly, ftavoured Compound sauces) sauces) and and mix mix it it with with aspic aspic jelly, flavoured with with Madeira Madeira or or other liqueur wine. other liqueur wine. Coat duckling fillets pieces of Coat the the pieces ofduckling fillets with with this this half-set half-set sauce. sauce. Put on grid to a grid on a to cool. cool. Decorate Decorate with pieces of with pieces of truffies, truffies, white white of hard-boiled egg, jelly. egg, and pickled tongue. and pickled tongue. Glaze Glaze with with jelly. Arrange Arrange in in a pyramid shapes. a dish dish in in pyramid shapes. Garnish Garnish with with jelly and chopped chopped jelly and surround surround the border of the border of the the dish dish with with jelly crotons. cro0tons. Rouen Rouen duckling duckling en en chemise chemise I. I. CANTON caxroll ROUENNAIS RouENNArs EN EN CHEMISE cHEMISE Remove the the breast-bone breast-bone of of a a Rouen Rouen duckling, duckling, - Remove stuff it it as as for for Duckling d la la rouennaise, rouennaise, and and truss truss it. it. Roast Roast as quickly as as possible, for for 8 8 to to 12 12 minutes. get cold. minutes. Leave Leave to get cold. Enclose the bird pork bladder, previously soaked bird in in a a large pork soaked in in cold cold water, placing the the bird bird with with the the rump rump towards towards the the opening of the the bladder. Tie Tie the the opening with with string. string. Poach Poach in a clear braising stock stock for 45 45 minutes. To serve, the bladder bladder and serve, take the duckling duckling out of ofthe proceed and proceed as described describod in the recipe recipe for for Duckling Duckling d la la rouennaise. rouennaise. Rouen duckling II. CANETON Roum duckling en m chemise II. cfi{sroN ROUENNAIS RouENNArs EN EN CHEMISE Rernove the the breast-bone, breast-bone, stuff the duck, cHErvrrsE stuffthe duck, and and truss. truss. - Remove which has been soaked Wrap in a a cloth which has been soaked in in water water and and wrung wrung Poach in in strong out. Tie like a a galantine (q.v.). Poach strong veal veal broth broth for for 50 minutes. 40 to 50 Drain, unwrap, and and serve serve surrounded surrounded with peeled orange with peeled orange quarters. Serve sauce (see quarters. (see SAUCE) Sewe rouennaise sauce SAUCE) separately, separately. Rouen duckling with cherries. CANETON ROUENNAIS Rouen duckling with cherries. cANEToN RouENNArs AUX Aux CERISES - Truss the the duckling and and fry fry it in a cERIsEs pan with it in a pan with butter. butter. cooked, put put it it into into an Wben it is nearly cooked, When an earthenware earthenware dish dish 250 g. Q (9 oz.) oz.) morello cherries, cherries, stoned. stoned. Dilute the pan pan with 250 Dilute the or 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons brown brown veal veal stock juices with with Madeira, Madeira, add add I 1 or juices stock and pour pour over over the the duckling. duckling. and
323 323

DUCK DUCK

How to 10 carve carve roast roast duck: duck; l. 1. First Firsl cut cul offthe off the legs 2. Place the lhe bird bird on on its its back back and and cut eut vertically along lhe length length of the lhe along the
breastbone
3. Cut Cul offthe off lhe breast breasl meat meat in long long Ihin thin slices 4. Repeat Repeal the the operation operation on the other olher side 5. Finally cut cul offthe offlhe two wings

(Larousse)

5
324

DUCK DUCK
Simmer in the the oven oyen for for a few few minutes. Serve in the same same Simmer dish. dish. Rouen duckling duckling (cold). (cold). cANEroN CANETON RoUENNAIS ROUENNAIS FRoID FROID - Rouen Rouen be served cold garnished with duckling, roast or fried, may be
poached in the oven oyen it in a bain-marie. Rouen duckliry duckJing pit6. pt. rArn PT DE DE cANEroN CANETON oB DE xousN ROUEN - See Rouen PT. PATE. duckJing in port. cANEroN CANETON RoUENNAIS ROUENNAIS AU AU PoRro PORTO Rouen duckliry Truss a Rouen Rouen duckling duckling and cook in in butter, butter, keeping keeping it and cook Truss a dish. Dilute on a a dish. slightly underdone. Drain and and arrange on 2~ dl. (scant I ~ pint, generous cup) port, with2l the pan juices with 2~ dl. (scant ] ~ pint, generous cup) thickened brown and add 2| a few veal gravy. gravy. Bring to the boil, simmer for a few moments, veal a few add some sorne butter and few tablespoons of this and strain. Pour a add separately. rest separately. sauce over the duck duck and and serve the rest sauce same way way with in the the same can be be prepared in Rouen duckling can instead of port. Madeira, Frontignan, or sherry instead Madeira, PRESSE A LA PRESSEnounNNrns Pressed Rouen Rouen duckling. CANETON cANEroN ROUENNAIS Pressed Remove the legs, Cook the duckling for 18 to to 20 minutes. Remove for 18 which will stilJ a few few shallow incisions on the still be raw. Make a pepper, and and a a little legs, season with salt, salt, pepper, season with underside of the legs, pounded c1ove. Brush with butter and grill briskly. clove. Brush a dish dish these on a Carve the breast into thin slivers. Arrange these (6 tablespoons, I dl. tablespoons, scant standing on hot plate in dl. (6 in which which 1 on a a hotplate down. Season ~ boiled down. good red has been been well well boiled red wine wine has cup) good I cup) pepper. with freshly ground pepper. good red red wine, wine, and ahd put Cut up the carcase, sprinkle with good (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) it press. Add tablespoons (3 Add 2 2 tablespoons a duck duck press. it under under a juice obtained, pour over the sliced brandy over the and pour obtained, and the juice brandy to to the pieces of butter the slices. on the duckling. butter on small pieces a few few small Scatter a duckling. Scatter sauce to to boil. Heat the sauce allowing the without allowing hotplate without Heat on on the the hotplate and serve. serve. Put the grilled the dish, dish, and grilled legs at each ofthe each end end of rl ROUENNAlSE RoUENNAISE -Duckling A LA crxerox Duckling i la la rouennaise. CANETON g. (4 (4 oz., Fry I cup) cup) Fry 1 in 125 125 g. oz., 1 chopped onion onion in I tablespoon chopped chopped Add the the it to to colour. colour. Add fat, without allowing allowing it chopped bacon bacon fat, (or duckling's livers (or I or or 2 2 chicken chicken livers liver, together together with with 1 duckling's liver, ducks' slices. Season Season with with thin slices. ducks' livers, livers. if available), available). cut cut into thin salt pepper, sprinkle and chopped chopped parsley, with spices spices and sprinkle with salt and and pepper, pound in a and in a quickly as possible. Leave Leave until until cold, cold, pound as possible. and fry fry as as quickly mortar, with the duckling duckling with a sieve. sieve. Stuff Stuff the rub tbrough through a mortar, and and rub for this hot oyen oven for very hot in a a very it. Cook Cook in and truss truss il. forcemeat, and this forcemeat, Serve 20 of the the bird. bird. Serve on the the size size of depending on 20 to to 30 30 minutes, depending (see SAUCE). with sauce (see SAUCE). with Rouennaise sauce legs, make make To ove the remove the legs, rouennaise, rem la rouennaise, Duckling d la To serve serve Ducklin~ grill. Cut the a Cut the season and and grill. in them, them, season few shallow shallow incisions in a few of a a breast into ers of on the the bord borders them on slivers and and arrange arrange them into thin thin slivers buttered stuffing dish with with the the stuffing middle of of the the dish Fill the the middle buttered dish. dish. FiJI grilled legs contained legs at at each each end. end. the grilled and put the the carcase carcase and in the contained in press, Chop it under under a a duck duck press, into big pieces, put it the carcase carcase into Chop the sprinkling a dash dash of of brandy and and a tablespoons brandy 2 or or 3 3 tablespoons sprinkling it it with with 2 juice thus lemon some rouennaise rouennaise obtained to to sorne thus obtained lemon juice. Add Add the the juice sauce, Serve sliced duckling. duckling. Serve pour sorne over the the sliced some over sauce, blend, blend, and and pour the separately. rest of the sauce sauce separately. the rest of the i Sabnis sN SALMIS sA,rltts rouennaise. CANETON clr.IEToN EN i la la rouennaise. of duckling duckli,ng Satmb of the LA and truss truss the breast-bone and the breast-bone LA ROUENNAISE RouENNAIsE -- Remove Remove the duckling. it. hot oyen to stiffen stiffen and and sear sear il. duckling. Put it into into a a very very hot oven to Put it just warrn, Leave then wipe on a a c1oth. cloth. Leave until until just warrn, then wipe on Remove on the the incisions on legs, make make a a few few shallow shallow incisions Remove the the legs, undersides, grill them. the breast breast into into and grill them. Carve Carve the undersides, season season and thin put them rows on a buttered buttered dish. dish. Sprinkle Sprinkle thin slivers slivers and and put them in in rows on a with season with finely chopped chopped shallot, shallot, and and season with with 1 I tablespoon tablespoon finely crushed ground pepper pepper and spices. freshly ground and spices. crushed sea-salt, sea-salt, freshly Chop glass red red wine, wine, and and sprinkle with with ~ Chop up up the the carcase, carcase, sprinkle I glass juice obtained put press. Pour the put it over the Pour the the juice obtained over a duck duck press. it under under a sliced duckling. sliced duckling. Heat put under stove and and put under moment on on the the stove Heat the the dish dish for for a a moment the grilled legs legs one one at at each each the grilled grill to glaze the the meal. meat. Place Place the the grill togla7~ the dish, end once. and serve serve at at once. end of ofthe dish, and Different preparing of preparing have different different ways ways of Different restaurants restaurants have Salmis it is is no no more more rouennaise. Quite often it la rouennaise. Salmis o(duckling of duckling d la Quite often than rouennaise. Duckling d la la rouennaise. than Duckling In originated, this dish dish originated, whence this In sorne some restaurants restaurants in in Rouen, Rouen, whence

should be be cooked cooked longer than required required for watercress. It should watercress. serving it it hot. hot. GALANTINE DE OE cANEroN CANETON DE Galantine of Rouen duckling. cALANTINE ROUEN - Prepare Prepare like like Galantfue Galantine of chicken (see (see GALANGALANRoUEN TINE) adding adding to to the the forcemeat forcemeat a a quantity quantity of d gratin gratin TINE) FORCEMEAT). forcemeat cemeat (see FORCEMEAT). for duckling en daube. cANEToN CANETON RoUENNAIS ROUNNAIS EN Jellied Rouen ducklirg DAUBE A rl LA crr6s GELE - Prepare llke like Daube of ofpheasant pheasant in jelly DAUBE PHEASANT). (see PHEASANT).

lellied Jellied strips d l'orange I'orange strips of Rouen duckling duckling

Jellied strips of AIcuILLErrEs i l'orange. I'orange. AIGUILLETTES of Rouen duckling Prepare the - Prepare duckling in the the recipe recipe for for Chaud-froid Chaud-froid of as described duckling as described in Rouen duckling. Cut strips, and breast fiUets fillets into into thin thin strips, Cut the the breast coat (see SAUCE). SAUCE). coat with with Chaud-froid sauce sauce d l'andalouse l'andalouse (see Decorate with truffies and peel cut orange peel cut into into little little strips, strips, and orange and jelly. Keep glaze with jelly. flesh and gla7~ Keep in in a a refrigerator. refrigerator. Using Using the the flesh of in the the recipe recipe for for of the the legs, legs, make a a mousse mousse as as described described in Poultry (see MOUSSE), a mousse (see MOUSSE), adding adding diced diced truffies. truffies. Fill Fill a Poultry mousse dome-shaped set. dome-shaped mould with the the mousse and and put it on on ice ice to set. When weil it out crustless of crustless well chilled, tum turn it out onto onto a a croton cro0ton of bread, spread with with duckling duckling bread, spread with butter, butter, on on a a dish. dish. Coyer Cover with strips sauce. Spoon Spoon a a strips which have been been coated in n chaud-froid sauce. little jelly on half-set jelly dish. Cut oranges on the little half-set the bottom of of the the dish. Cut oranges into port pulp, half-fill half-fill with with port into basket-shapes, scoop scoop out out the the pulp, jelly, jelly, decorate peeled orange and arrange decorate with orange sections sections and arrange with peeled round shape. round the the mousse mousse shape. Decorate the If half spiking on on a a skewer skewer topped topped by by ha by spiking the top top by an an orange orange with a big truffie in in it. it. with a big truffLe Chili Chill in in the the refrigerator. refrigerator. Rouen LAMBERTYE DE ROUEN RoUEN LAMBERTYE cANEToN DE Rouen duckJing duckling Lambertye. Lambertye. CANETON Proceed as described in the recipe for Chicken Lambertye for Chicken Lambertye in the recipe Proceed as described (see (see CHICKEN), mousse in in that that the chicken chicken mousse replacing the CHICKEN), replacing recipe duck mousse. recipe by by duck mousse. Set (see SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). Set in in brown brown Chaud-froid Chaud-froid sauce Rouen DE ROUEN RoUEN -I. MOUSSE uo'uss DE DE CANETON cANEroN DE duckling mousse mousse 1. Ruren duckJing Prepare the (see CHICKEN), replacing the mousse (see CHICKEN), replacing like Chicken Prepare like Chickm mousse chicken by duck. duck. chicken by Rouen Er MoussE ET II and and mousselines. mousselines. MOUSSE mousse il duckling mousse Roum duckling MOUSSELINES as described described Prepare as RouENNAIS -- Prepare DE CANETON MoussELINES DE cANEToN ROUENNAIS in (see below), the below), the souffii (see duckling souffl recipe for for Rouen Rouen duckling in the the recipe mousse, poached in in a a in the the oyen oven in mould, poached mousse, in in a a charlotte charlotte mould, buin-marie (q.v.); and bain-marie (q.v.); in small small moulds, moulds, and the the mousselines, mousselines, in
DE 'ORA:-IGE DE CANETON .4, L r'On^nSrcr CANETON DE DE ROUEN ROUEN GLACES CrlCfnS

325 325

DUCK
(cooked from the sliced sliced duckling duckling (cooked from JO l0 to to 12 12 minutes) minutes) is is the coveredwith (see SAUCE), with Red Red wine wine sauce sauce (see SAUCE), spiced spiced with with covered shallots, flavoured flavoured with with aa tablespoon tablespoon of of brandy, brandy, and and shallots, thickened with with raw raw chopped chopped duck duck liver. liver. thickened In Duclair, Duclair, the the home home of of the the famous famous ducklings, ducklings, aa different different ln joints, put method is is used. used. Bone Bone the the ducklings ducklings to to the the wing put wing joints, method the liver liver inside inside the the bird, bird, trun trim and and truss truss it, it, and and roast roast on on the the the spit for for 20 20 to to 22 22 minutes, minutes, depending depending on on size. size. spit Carve the the breasl breast into into Ihin thin sliees slices and and arrange arrange them them on on a a Carve dish around around the the carcase, carcase, which which has has been been fliled filled with with the the dish following pure: pur6e: Fry Fry a large chopped a large chopped onion onion lightly lightly in in butter, butter, following sprinkle with port and with port and Burgundy Burgundy wine, wine, boil boil down, down, add add the the sprinkle duckling's liver pounded in liver pounded in a a mortar mortar and and the the blood blood from from duckling's the carcase. carcase. Heat Heat weil. well. the Rouen duckling duckling souffl. souffi6. CANETON RoUENNAtsE SOUFFL cANEroN ROUENNAISE sourrrf -Rouen grand-style dish; This is is very very much much a a grand-style dish; it it is is excellent excellent but but This rather expensive, expensive, as 2 ducklings ducklings should should be as 2 be used, larger used, the the larger rather for serving serving and and the the sma smaller for making making a forcemeat to a forcemeat to stuff stuff for 11er for the other. other. the Truss the the larger larger duck duck and and raast roast in in the the oven, oven, keeping keeping it it Truss rather underdone. underdone. Remove Remove the the breast fillets and and keep keep hot. hot. breast fillets rather Remove the the breast-bone breast-bone in in such such a a way way as as to to make make the the Remove hollow. Season carcase hoJ]ow. Season the the duck duck inside pepper, inside with salt, pepper, with salt, carcase and spices, spices, and and sprinkle sprinkle with with 1 I tablespoon tablespoon brandy. brandy. Stuff Stuff the the and (5 oz.) carcase with forcemeat of g. (5 with a a forcemeat 150 g. gras, of 150 uncooked/oie gras, oz.) uncookedfoie carcase the ducks' ducks'livers, flesh of prepared and the the tlesh ofthe second duck, duck, prepared the li vers, and the second (see FORCEMEAT). as described described in Mousseline forcemeat (sec tn Mousseline as FORCEMEAT). Spread this this forcemeat forcemeat in piling it in the the carcase, give the carcase, piling it up to give the Spread up to duck its its original original shape. shape. Cover Cover with buttered paper and tie tie duck with buttered paper and with string. string. Lay Lay the pan, sprinkle the stufred stuffed duck duck in in a a roasting roasting pan, sprinkle with with melted melted butter butter ilnd and cook cook in in a a slow slow oyen for 20 oven for 20 to 25 with to 25 minutes. minutes. Remove the paper. Arrange the duck on on a a dish Remove the paper. Arrange the duck dish and surround with baked blind and filled with a salpicon a salpicon surround with tartlets tartJets baked blind and fliled with (q.v.) of truffies and mushrooms (q.v.) of truffies and mushrooms blended blended with with concentratod concentrated (se SAUCE). Madeira sauce (sec SAUCE). Place Place a slice of a slice of duck duck on each on each Madeira sauce tartlet sliver of tartlet and and top top with with a a sliver of truffie, truffie, heated heated in in butter. butter. Serve with R ouennaise sauce Servewith Rouennaise sauce or or Pirigueux Prigueux sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). The same forcemeat The same forcemeat can can be be used used for for making making Rouen Rouen duck duck mousses artd. mousselines. The prepared mousses and mousselines. The former fonuer are are prepared in in charlotte charlotte moulds moulds with with a a hole bole in in the the middle, middle, the the latter latter in in small small individual individual moulds. moulds. They They are are cooked cooked in in the the oven oven in in a a bain-marie bain-marie (q.v.). (q.v.). The The same same composition composition can can also also be be used used for for preparing preparing Duck Duck soufid souffl en en timbale. timbale. Put Put the the mixture mixture into into buttered buttered souff6 souffl moulds mou Ids and and bake bake in in the the oven oyen like like an an ordinary ordinary souffi6 souffl (see (sec SOUFFLES, SOUFFLS, Savoury Savoury soffiis). souffls). Supr0mes. Suprmes. of of Rouen Rouen duckling. duckling. supRErvrns SUPR~MES DE DE cANEToN CANETON RoUENNAIS ROUENNAIS - Remove Remove the the breast breast fillets fillets of of a a Rouen Rouen duckling. duckling. Cut Cut each each fillet fillet into into 2 2 or or 3 3 pieces pieces lengthways. lengthways. Beat Beat to to flatten ftatten them them slightly, slightly, season season with with salt salt and and pepper, pepper, put put in in a a buttered buttered dish, dish, and and cook cook with with the the lid lid on, on, keeping keeping them them rather rather underunderdone. done. Duck Duck fillets fillets prepared prepared in in this this manner manner are are served served with with various various garnishes garnishes and and sauces. sauces. They They can ean be be prepared prepared i /a la bigarade,with bigarade, with shredded shredded orange orange and and lemon lemon rind rind and and bigarade bigarade sauce: sauce; with with morello morello cherries. cherries, stoned stoned and and cooked cooked in in Madeira Madeira with with concentrated concentrated Madeira-flavoured Madeira-tlavoured veal veal gravy gravy blended blended with with a a little liale butter; butter; garnished garnished with with mushrooms mushrooms saut6ed sautcd in in butter; butter; au au chambertin, chambertin, arrangd arranged on on cro0tons craltons fried fried in in butter, butter, garnished garnished with with sliced sliced mushrooms mushrooms fried fried in in butter butter and and slices slices of of truffies truffles in in chambertin chambertin sauce; sauce; au au porto, porto, arranged arranged on on cro0tons crotons fried fried in in butter butter with with port port sauce sauce poured poured over over them; them; d la la pirigourdine, prigourdine, ananged arranged on on fried fried cro0tons, crotons, spread spread with with foie foie gras, gras, garnished garnished with with slivers slivers of of truffes truffles and and served served with with Madeira, Madeira, port port or or sherry sherry sauce; sauce; with with truffies truffles arranged arranged on on cro0tons crotons fried fried in in butter, butter, garnished garnisbed with with thick thick slices slices of of truffies truffles saut6ed sauted in in butter butter and and served served with with Madeira Madeira sauce sauce
326 326

d l'orange. I'orange. Aiso Also on on crotons cro0tons fried fried in garnished with in butter, butter, garnished with orange rind rind shredded shredded intojulienne into julienne (q.v.) (q.v.)strips, strips, surrounded orange surrounded peeledsections with peeJed sections of of orange, orange, and and served served with with with orange orange sauce. sauce. Terrine of of Rouen Rouen duckling. duckling. TERRINE rrnnrNr DE DE CANETON cANEToN DE Terrine DE ROUENRouEN Using duck duck tlesh, flesh, fine fine forcemeat forcemeat and prepare like and truffles, truffies, prepare Using like (see TERRINE). Terrine of of duckling duckling (see TERRINE). Terrine Timbale of of Rouen Rouen duckting duckling Voisin. Voisin. TIMBALE TTMBALE DE DE CANETON cANEroN Timbale RouENNArs VOISIN vorsrN -- This This dish dish was was one one of the specialities of the specialities of ROUENNAIS of the famous famous Voisin Voisin restaurant restaurant which which no no longer longer exists. the exists. The The recipe was was as as follows: follows: recipe Roast a a Rouen Rouen duckling, duckling, keeping keeping it little underdone. it a a little Roast underdone. quite cold, When it it is is quite cold, remove remove the the breast breast fillets. fillets. When Chop up up the the earcase and the carcase and the trimmings trimmings and and use use them them for for Chop (see SA making a a Salmis Salmis sauce sauce (see SAUCE, Compound brown making UCE, Compound brown sauces). Strain Strain the the sauce, sauce, remove remove surplus surplus fat, fat, add sauces). add to to it it an an jelly, boil quantity of equal quantity of meat meat jelly, down, and boil down, and strain strain tbrough equal through a a muslin c1oth. cloth. muslin a timbale timbale with Coat a with this this sauce. sauce. When put in When it it sets, sets, put Coat in a a layer of of sliced slicod flUets (previously coated fillets of of duckling duckling (previously coated with layer with the the same sauce sauc and and left left to set), alternating to set). alternating with with slivers slivers of same of truffles. truffies. jelly over Spoon sorne some half-set half-set jelly over eacb layer and each layer and continue Spoon continue in in this manner manner until until the the timbale timbale is filld with with alterna alternating is filled rows ting rows this of sliced sliced duck duck and and truffles. truffies. of jelly. Put Finish off off with with a a slightly thicker thicker layer layer of jelly. Finish Put the the on ice or or in in a a refrigera refrigerator well. timbale on tor and chill weil. Rouen duckling duckling with witft truffles. trufres. CANETON cANEroN ROUENNAIS RouENNArs AUX AUx Rouen TRUFFES preparation is This method method of of preparation is suitable only only for TRUFFES - This or suprmes suprdmes (breasts) of Rouen ducklings. fillets or the duckling Cook the duckling in in the the oven, oven, keeping it a littlc little underCook il a done. Cut the breast breast fillets fillets into thick slices. Arrange Arrange these done. into thick in a a dish with thick sliccs slices of truffies which in which have been been tossed in in butter. bu tter. Keep hot. Chop the carcaso and and the Chop the carcase the parings parings into into pieces, pieees, moisten with or sherry, and and boil down. Add Add a with Madeira, Madeira, port port or boil down. a few concentrated Demi-glace (see tablespoons concentraled (see SAUCE). Allow to a few moments, then strain. Bring this to boil boil for for a then strain. this sauce sauce to the boil, boil, add I 1 tablespoon brandy brandy which has has been set alight, alight, and 2 tablespoons sauce and tabJespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) butter. Pour the the sauce over the duckling duckling fillets. fiJlets.

WILD WILD DUCKS. DUCKS. cANARDs CANARDS sAUvAcES SAUVAGES - Among Among the the wild ducks used used in in cookery, cookery, the most most popular, and the the biggest, biggest, is is the green-head green-head or or mallard, mallard, known kno"m in France as as Canard sauvage or or Un sauvage. sauvage. This This duck, duck, which which has has succulent flesh. tlesh, is is found found in in the the vicinity vicinity of of freshwater freshwater ponds ponds and and lakes lakes from from October to to March. March. Its lts plumage plumage varies, varies, depending depending on on sex, sex, age, age, and season. season. The The plumage plumage of of the the male male is green green and and red red with with touches touches of of brown brown and grey. The female femaJe is is brown. brown. The The flesh f1esh of of the the other other species species of of wild wild ducks, ducks, most most of of which which are are edible, edible, is is less less delicate delicate than than that that of of the the mallard. mal lard. They They include include the the pintail, pintai!, the the sheld-duck sheld-duck and the the gadwell; gadwell. Other Other water water game game of of the the same same family, family, which which is is defined defined by by the the generic generic term tenu waterfowd waterfowl, include include the the spoonbill spoonbill or or shovellershoveller duck, the teal, teal, a a small small but but excellent excellent bird. bird. duck, and the Some Sorne waterfowl, waterfowl. for for example, example, the the pintail pintail and and teal teal are are allowed allowed as as Lenten Lenten fare, fare, whereas whereas the the mallard mallard is is considered considered as as meat. meat. Wild Wild duck duck i la la bigarade. bigarade. cANARD CANARD sAUVAcE SAUVAGE A r.A LA srcARADs BIGARADE Roast Roast or or fry fry the the wild wild duck duck and and prepare prepareas as Duckling Ducklingd I'orange. l'orange. Fillets Fillels of of duck duck ial ta la bigarade bigarade (Plumerey's (Plumerey's recipe). recipe). FrLErs FILETS DE DE cANARD CANARD A r,c, LA nlcARA,DE BIGARADE - 'Remove 'Remove the the breast breast fillets fillets and and the the legs legs of of2 2 wild wild ducks. ducks. Put Put them them into inlo an an earthenware earthenware dish dish with with salt, salt,coarse-ground coarse-ground pepper, pepper,parsley, parsley, thyme, thyme, bay bayleaf, leaf,chopped chopped shallots, shallots, lemon lemon juice juice and and I glass glass good good oil. oil. Keep Keep them them in in this this seasoning seasoning for for 45 45 minutes minutes before before they they are are required, required, turning tuming frequently. frequently. 'Thread 'Thread them them on on a a skewer, skewer, without without packing packing too too tightly, tightly,

DUCK DUCK
sprinkle withthe theseasoning seasoningin inwhich whichthey theywere weresteeped, steeped, sprinkle with and put on a spit. and put on a spit. 'As soon as youfeel asyou feelthem them becoming becoming finn firmto tothe thetouch, touch, 'As soon takethem themoff offthe theskewer. skewer. Wash Washthe thefillets filletsand putthem andput themone one take by one oneinto into aasaut panin saut6pan jellythe inwhich pieceof whichaapiece gamejelly ofgame the by size of a walnut has been melted, with an equal amount of size of a walnut has been melted, with an equal amount of juiceof butter and and the the juice of I lemon. lemon.Arrange Arrange and andserve serve with with butter (see SAUCE).' Bigarade sauce sauce(see Bigarade SA UCE).' WiH duck duckau auchambertin. chambertin. CANARD c,rN.lRD SAUVAGE sAUVAGE AU AUCHAMBERcHAMBERWild rrN Roast or fry fry the the duck, duck, keeping keeping it it aalittle little underdone. underdone. TIN - - Roast or Prepare Chambertin (see SAUCE), Chambertinsauce sauce(see SAUCE), add addto to it itsorne someof of Prepare juices left the diluted diluted pan pan juices leftover over from from cooking cooking the theduck, duck,and and the pour over over the the dish. dish.Garnish Garnishwith with truffies truffiesand and mushrooms. mushrooms. pour (Plumerey's recipe). Salmis of of wild wildduck duck (plumerey's recipe). SALMIS sALMrs DE DECANARD cANARD Sabnis 'Cover wild duck SAUVAGE duck with with aamirepoix (q.v.),wrap mirepoix (q.v.), wrap SAUVAGE -- 'Cover aa wild piece of in a a piece paper and of paper put to and put to cook cook on spit. After on aaspit. After cooking cooking in for 30 30 minutes, minutes, unwrap, unwrap, test test to to see seeif if the theduck duck is is done, done, and and for cut up up in in the the usual usual manner manner for for aasalmis. salmis. eut joints into 'Put the the joints into aa casserole, casserole, together together with with the the blood blood 'Put which cornes comes out out of of them, them, making making sure sure that that it it neither neither boils boils which nor dries dries up, up, but but keeps keeps hot. hot. nor 'Have sorne some concentrated, concentrated, thick thick Financire FinanciDre sauce (se, sauce (see 'Have SAUCE) ready ready in in a (q.v.). Put a bain-marie bain-marie (q.v.). Put the the bones bones and and SAUCE) parings of of the the duck duck into into aa saucepan saucepan with glass good good. red with I glass red parings Bordeaux wine, wine, ~ shallot, 1 I clove, clove, and and apinch a pinch of of coarsely coaisely f shallot, Bordeaux ground pepper. pepper. Boil Boil down down to to half, half, add add the the financire sauce, ground financiire sauce, and cook cook untiJ until it it reaches reaches the the consistency consistency of of a a salmis salmis sauce. sauce. and Strain, add add 1 juice of I tablespoon tablespoon olive olive oil oil and and the the juice lemon. of I lemon. Strain, Arrange the pieces of the pieces of duck duck 00 on heart-shaped heart-shaped crotons, cro0tons, Arrange garnish with with sliced sliced truffies trufles and and mushrooms, mushrooms, and pour the and pour the garnish sauce over.' over.' sauce
Salmisof of wild duck ila (Plumerey's recipe). Ia minute(Plumerey's recipe). sALMrs Salmis wild duck minute SALMIS le Prepare the duck the duck and and -Prepare cook onthe the as precedingrecipe. spit,as describedin inthe the recipe. While cook on spit, described preceding While it it cooking,chop parsley,mushrooms chopparsley, mushrooms and shallotsvery very isiscooking, and shallots finely, finely, tossthem panin themin ina apan inbutter butterwith pepper,and withsalt, salt,pepper, and little toss a alittle gratednutmeg. nutmeg.Moisten Moistenwith glass withi Iglass ofwhite whiteChablis, Chablis,boil grated of boil downby byhalf, half,and andadd goodtablespoon adda a tablespoonEspagnole Espagnolesauce down good sauce (seeSA SAUCE). Removefrom fromheat heatand and add {tablespoon (see UCE). Remove add tablespoon of ofthe the bestmustard. mustard. best 'Takethe jointit, theduck duckoff offthe thespit, spit,joint putthe it,and andput piecesinto 'Take pieces the into pan,turning turningthem jellyand gently.Put themgently. Puta a!ittle littlegame game jelly aa.saut6 saut pan, and pieceof ofbutter butterthe thesize sizeof ofaasmalJ aapiece smallwalnut walnutinto intothe pan. thepan. Servethe pieces with theduck duckpieces withthe pouredover.' thesauce saucepoured Serve over.' WiHduck duckI l'orange. I'orange.CANARD cANARDSAUVAGE sAUvAGEI L'ORANGE Wild r'on,lNcr- -Fry Fry or roast roastthe theduck. duck. Proceed Proceedas asdescribed describedin or inthe therecipe recipefor for Duckling dl'orange. I'orange. Duckling poRTo- Fry Wildduck duckin port.CANARD inport. cANARD SAUVAGE sAUvAcEAU Wild AUPORTO or - Fryor roastthe theduck proceed as duck and and proceed asdescribed describedin roast inthe therecipe recipefor for Rouenduckling port. duckling in inport. Rouen Wild duck pnsssnpresse. CANARD duckI la lapresse. cANARDSAUVAGE Wild sAUvAcE ALA r.lPRESSE proceod as Roastthe theduck duck from from 18 18to to20 20minutes. minutes.Proceed Roast asdescribed described in the therecipe recipefor for Pressed PressedRouen in duckling. Rouen duckling. Roast wild wild duck. duck.CANARD cANARD SAUVAGE Roast sAUvAGER6T1R0rr - Roast Roastthe theduck duck on brisk brisk heat, heat, either either on on spitor onaaspit orin inthe theoven. oven. Garnish with with lemon lemon and and orange orangeslices. Garnish slices.Dilute Dilute the pan the pan juices and serveseparately. andserve separately. juices Wild duck duck i la Wild la tyrolienne (Plumerey's recipe). tyrolienne (plumerey's recipe). CANARD clNlno SAUVAGE ALA ra TYROLIENNE SAUVAGE 'Stew cooking rynouENNE- -'Stew cooking apples applesand andadd addaa little cinnamon cinnamon and !ittle and mace mace to infuse the to infuse the hot hotapples. apples. Truss Trussthe the duck, stuffit stuffit with duck, with the the stewed stewed apples, apples, and sewup and sew upthe theneck neckand and the rump. rump. the
DE cANARDSAUVAGE SAUVAGE.4. unrurnDE CANARD LA MINUTE

Duckpress press (Lc (La Tour Tour d'Argent. d'Argent. Phot. Phot. Nicolas) Nicolas) Duck

327 327

DUCK PRESS DUCKPRESS

boil1 vincgar with a piece pie of butter the Bring to the boil | glass vinegar of a small walnut, walnut, I coffee-spoon coffee-spoon fine sugar, and a little size of Baste the the duck duck with with this this during coarsely ground pepper. Baste on the spit, spit, placing a a pan beneath it it to catch the cooking on juices. Cooking should be be completed in in 30 JO to to 35 35 minutes. Take the the duck duck off the the spit, spit, remove remove trussing trussing strings strings and Take dish. Strain the a dish. the pan juices juices into a a saucepan, on a arrange on sauce t tablespoon redcurrant redcurrant jelly, jelly, and pour this sauce heat, add I over the duck.' over duck.'

established entered the established himseli himself, he he entered the service service of Napoleon Napoleon I, l, as chef. He remained in the service of of the Emperor Emperor until he he left for Saint Helena but, to his great sorrow, sorrow, was unable to go into exile with his master on account of of his health, and he retired to Switzerland. Switzerland. He left to the Lausanne Museum the the Emperor's Em peror's personal personal table-service, table-service, which which had had been presented presented to him by Napoleon. Napoleon. It claimed that we owe the invention of the dish known It is c1aimed as as Chickm Chicken sauft saut Marengo to Dunand the younger.

different PRE&'i. pREssE PRESSE A il clNmo ('ANARD - Kitchen K itchen utensil, ulensil, different DUCK PRESS. serves the sole purpose of from a a meat meat press, press, in in that that it il serves the sole purpose of from extracting the juices from the carcase carcase ofduck. of duck. extracting thejuices

There were of this were two two master chefs chefs of this name, DUNAND - There were equally famous. son, of Swiss origin, who were father and and son, The elder eIder Dunand Dunand joined joined the French army and became chef to the prince de Cond6. Cond. His son succeeded him hirn and became
controller of household. When When the the prince prince emigrated controller of this great household. Dunand followed in 1793 1793 the younger Dunand followed him, and for twelve in years was wa, in charge of his kitchens. sick man a nostalgic Then, being a man ard and with with a nostalgie longing to a sick Having resee Paris once more, he he returned returned to to France. France. Having see Paris once more,

DUXELLES DUXELLf:S The name derives derives from from Uxel. Uxel, a small town - The of the C6tesdu-Nord. Ctes-du-Nord. Some believe believc that this thi~ dish was was socalled because it a Varenne, an it was was created created by t La an official of of the household of the the Marquis d'Uxelles. d'Uxelles. Duxelles of Duxelles of mushrooms. mushroorns. DUXELLES DUXELLES DE DE cHAMpIGNoNS CHAMPIGNONS Clean and trim trirn 125 g. g. (4 (4 oz.) mushrooms, or peelings peelings and Put them in a stalks, and stalks. and chop them finely. finely. Pu! a cloth and and twist Lightly brown in butter half tightly to extract all ail liquid. liquid. Lightly ha If a onion. Add 2 chopped shallots, salt, pepper, nutchopped onion. meg and the squeezed squeezed mushrooms. St:r Stir over over brisk heat until until the mushrooms are cooked. Leave to get cold cold and keep in a covered with buttered paper. cold cold place, place, covered

328 328

EARTH NUTS. NUTS. rERRE-Nox TERRE-NOIX - Tuberous Tuberous root root of a a plant whose scientific name na me is is Carwn Carum bulbocastanum. bulbocastanum. lt It is is black
outside and white white inside, tastes tastes like like chestnut chestnut and is prepared in the same sa me ways. The The seeds seeds of of the the plant plant are are sometimes sometimes used used in place place of of caraway. caraway. EASTER EASTER EGGS EGGS - See EGGS.
CHAUD - Pastry Pastry made made with with dough dough which which is is first nCfHUOn poached in water, then dried in the oven. oyen. The invention of this pastry is is attributed to Charles-Paul Favart (father of the French dramatist) who, in 1710, 171 0, was established established as a pastry-cook pastry-cook in the'rue tI1 rue de la Verrerie Verrerie in Paris. Paris. It is probable probable that Favart's 'invention' 'invention' consisted consisted merely of improving improving and altering altering the the shape of of this pastry and thereby fashion, for it was known in France long long bringing it into fashion, before Favart's time. It It is mentioned mentioned in a charter of 1210. 1210, where it it is is described as as 'buns called caUed eschaudati', a a name na me given to to it because hot hot water water was poured onto the dough to rise. ' make it rise. Car6me's Carme's recipe is is as as follows: follows: 500 500 g. g. (18 (18 oz., oz., 4j 41 cups) cups) flour, salt,2 ftour, lj J-t dl. $ (t pint, pint, 3 1cup) oil, lt li teaspoons teaspoons salt, 2 dl. Q (t pint, "np) scant scant cup) cup) water. water. Mix and and knead knead the the dough, and and leave to stand, stand, wrapped in a cloth, for 2 hours. hours. Divide into into small small pieces, pieces, shape into a cloth, balls, balls, and and press press three three fingers fingers into into them them to to make make them hollow. Poach in in water. Drain and dry in a cloth, and leave to dry thoroughly thoroughly for 2 2 hours. Bake Bake in in a hot hot oven oyen for 25 25 to to 30 30 minutes. minutes.

Pipe the the 6clairs clairs on on to to a a baking sheet in the the shape Pipe sheet in shape of fingers. Brush with wi th egg and bake in a a hot hot oyen. When the fingers. oven. When fiU them, using clairs are cold, slit them along one side, and fill 6clairs a forcing-bag, forcing-bag, with with French French pastry pastry cream cream flavoured ftavoured with a vanilla, coffee or chocolate. Ice lce the the top top of the clairs 6clairs with ftavoured to blend with the filling. hot fondant icing, flavoured Eclairs clairs can also be filled filled with different mixtures, such as Crme Chiboust Chiboust (see CREAM), Chantilly, Chantilly, pur6e pure of of marrons Crime glacds, glacs, or salpicons salpicons of various various kinds kinds of fruit fruit blended blended in French pastry cream. cream. Small Small 6clairs clairs d la la hollandaise. hollandaise. pnrrrs PETITS fcrAJns CLAIRS A r.c, LA HOLLANDAISE - These 6clairs clairs are served as hors-d'euvre. hors-d'uvre. HoLLANDAISE Make the 6clairs clairs of of unsweetened unsweetened chou chou paste paste and pipe pipe them Make a baking sheet; sheet; they should be smaller than ordinary onto a clairs - about a 4 cm. (H inches) inches) long. Brush with egg and 6clairs cm. (lt oyen. Leave until they are quite guite cold. bake in a slow oven. Fillet a large large herring, herring, soak to remove remove all ail salt and dry in a Fillet clotho Pound Pound in a a mortar, mortar, adding adding 2 yolks of hard-boiled hard-boiled cloth. (3 oz., 6 tablespoons) butter. Rub through a eggs, and 75 g. G fine 1 tablespoon chopped chives chives and ! 1 tablefine sieve. Add + a smooth paste with a spoon chopped parsley, and work to a clairs and fill fil! them with this spatula. Slit the sides of the 6clairs using a a pastry pastry forcing-bag. forcing-bag. Brush Brush the the tops tops with mixture, using melted melted butter and and sprinkle with with chopped chopped yolk yolk of of hardboiled eggs and chopped parsley. parsley, boiled CUELLE - Deep dish used for serving vegetables. nCUnf,f,n - See CHEESE. CHEESE, EDAM ANGUILLE - Snake-like fish with viscous and slippery EEL. INcUILLE skin. When When caught caught in in fast-flowing fast-ftowing water its its flesh ftesh is is very skin. recognised by its light-brown Iight-brown skin, with delicate. It can be recognised on the back and and silver on the belly. The shades of brown on ftesh of of eels from a pool or stagnant water is slimy; the.skin theskin flesh dirty yellow yeUow on the belly. is dark brown on the back and dirty must be be kept alive alive until the the time time of of preparation. preparation. They Eels must

nCHm.n CHlR - One One of the the best best French butters. butters, made in the
commune commune of of this name na me (Deux Sdvres). Svres).

Coffee Coffee and and chocolate chocolate eclairs clairs (Zaroasse) (Larousse)

paste (see DOUGH) ECf,n n - Small CLAffiSmaJi pastry pastry made madewith Choupaste(see with Chou filled fiUed with French French pasty pastry ueam cre am (see (see CREAM) flavoured ftavoured

with with vanilla, vaniUa, coffee, or chocolate, chocolate, and and iced iced with Fondant Fondant
icing icing (see ICING). ICING).

be kept kept in in a fish pond or or a large large bucket bucket of of water water which which should be freguently changed. changed. Eel's EeJ's flesh ftesh is very nourishing, nourishing, should be frequently though a little \ittle heavy. heavy. It It becomes becomes more easily easily digestible if if the the though layer of of fat between between the skin and the the flesh fiesh is removed before layer cooking. cooking. There are several varieties of of sea eels, the best of of which which is moray. The conger conger eel eel is another another sea eel which which is chiefly chiefty used used moray.The bouillabaisse (q.v.). (g.v.). but it also makes makes excellent excellent matelotes matelotes for bouillabarsse (q.v.). (g.v.). Lamprey is is similar to to eel, and runs up up rivers in spring. Its Lamprey ftesh is delicate in flavour fiavour and can be prepared in the same same flesh eel. way as eel.

329

EEL
a white or brown sauce, sauce, etc. etc. SmaJi Small eels, and fillets or cutlets eels, and intended for for frying are not cooked first first in in court-bouillon. Eel ANGUILLE A L'ANGLAISE i l'anglaise. I'anglaise.,lNcuIrr,e L'A,NGLAIsE a boned eel boned eel - Cut a (2-inch) pieces. pieces. Flatten, into Flatten, and and marinate into 5-cm. 5-cm. (2-inch) marinate for for 30 pepper. Coat lemon juice or vinegar, salt and pepper. minutes in oil, lemon the pieces with with egg egg and and breadcrumbs, and and deep-fry. deep-fry. Serve Serve (see SAUCE) to with with Butter sauce sauce (see little anchovy to which which a a little butter has been added. Ballottine of of eel, eel, or shrffed eel. eel. BALLOTTINE slu.orrlNE D'ANGUILLE D'I,NGUILLE or stuffed (nNcunrn FARCIE) (ANGUILLE This dish is rr,ncn) cold. When is served hot or cold. - This hot, it can can be be served servd with with the the garnishes and and sauces recommended for large braised for large braised fish. fish. When cold, ail all the the recipes mended When cold, given for cold fish fish can be applied to to it. Cold ballottine of eel eel is also called called galantine of eel. Co Id ballottine or galantine of eel sausage, Cold or galantine of eel, eel, or or eel sausage, or stuffed jellied eel. BALLOTTINE D'ANGUILLE stuffed jeltied eel. BALLoTTINE D'aNGUILLT FROIDE, FRoIDE,
GALANTINE, SAUCISSON LA D'ANGUILLE, ANGUILLE FARCIE r.ARcn,i r.q, sAUcIssoN D'ANGUILLE,
aquarium Eel in an aquarium

'l

described described in in Hot ballottine ballottine of of eel (see below). Poach Poach gently in red red or white wine court-bouillon (q.v.). Drain and unwrap, unwrap, then in the Drain and rewrap the then rewrap the fish fish in the muslin little, and cIo th, rinsed out. Tie with string, rinsed out. cloth, string, tightening it a a little, a press. put under a press. Leave Leave for for 12 12 hours to to get quite cold. Unwrap the ballottine, dry, dry, trim, and coat coat with jelly or trim, and Chaud-froid (see SAUCE). Serve and as described Chaud-froid (see and garnish as described in the recipe. The fish stock for cold cold ballottine of eel eel is is made with red or white wine. the ballottine is is cooked, wine. After the cooked. the the stock is clarified as described described in in the the recipe clarified as recipe for for Fish jelly stock (see JELL Y), and and used used for coating and garnishing the for coating and garnishing JELLY), the eel. eel. jelly, serve When the the ballottine is is prepared only When serye comin jelly, only in pletely covered placed on a covered in its jelly, the dish being placed a larger one and surrounded by crushed ice.
BALLOTTINE D'ANGUILLE Hot ballottine of eel. eel. BALLoTTTNE D'lNcuILLE CHAUDE cHAUDE a large large eel, flatten slightly, season with salt, Prepare a salt, pepper and spices. spices. Fill Fill with stuffing the and with forcemeat, stuffing the fish fish so so as as to muslin cloth and retain its shape. Wrap the ballottine in a a muslin tie it at both ends and in 3 or 4 places in the middle. Put onto the grill of of a a buttered fish kettle. Coyer Put Cover with white red wine court-bouillon. Bring to to the boil, coyer the pan, or red cover the unwrap the eel. Place in a and poach gently. Drain and unwrap a firedish and and glaze in the the oven, oyen, basting basting frequently proof dish glaze in frequently with pan juices. juices. the thickened pan The wine wine liquor liquor for for boiling boiling ballottine ballottine of eel, which The of eel, in butter added to it, usually has has diced diced vegetables sauted usually added to sauteed in should be be further further strengthened strengthened by by adding adding the the bones bones and should from other fish, fish, if possible. possible. After cooking the trimmings from liquor should be used used as as a basis for the sauce ballottine, the liquor sauce which is to accompany it. eel will be be found found under ForceStuffing for ballottine of eel FORCE MEATS). with fish (see FoRCEMEATS). meats withfish eel In addition to the recipes listed below for ballottine of of eel be applied applied to to it. ail those given for for large braised fish fish can be all fish can be accompanied by a a simple garnish such as The fish such as mushrooms, various various croquettes, macddoine macdoine of vegetables, mushrooms, potatoes prepared in various ways, rice pilaf, or risotto. Ballottine of eel eel I l'ancienne. BALLoTTTNE BALLOTTINE o'ANGUrrrr D'ANGUILLE A L'ANCIENNE - Stuff Stuff the eel eel with whiting forcemeat to which L'nNcrENNE added. Prepare as as described described above diced truffies have been added. above court-bouillon with white white wine. and poach in court-bouillonwith a foundation of fish fish forceDrain, glaze, and and arrange on a meat or on a a cro0ton croton of ofbread meat bread fried in butter. Surround with l'ancienne garnish garnish (see (see GARNISHES). GARNISHES). Cover Coyer with I'ancienne d Normande sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE) diluted diluted with the boiled down Normande liquor in which the eel eel was cooked and finished with finely liquor shredded mirepoix mirepoix (q.v.) of vegetables and Madeira. Madeira. shredded Ballottine of of eel eel i la la bourguignonne. bourguignonne. BALLoTTINE BALLOTTINE Ballottine D'ANGUILLE A r,,r LA gouRGUrcNoNNE BOURGUIGNONNE - Stuff the the eel eel with with a a D'ANcurLLE -

GELE - Bone cu,6r Bone the the eel and fill fill with stuffing and and wrap eel and with stuffing wrap as as

lo skin an eel eel How to

skinning the fish, fish, kill kiU it by banging banging the head hard Before skinning against a stone. stone. As soon as it is dead, hang it up on a hook ho ok against string tied at the neck. neck. Make Make a circular incision incision below by a string string. Turn the the skin back all aU round the neck in such a the string. wayas to be able to hold it with a cloth and then th en tear the way as to skin off. off. skin c1ean it by making ma king a light light incision incision along Trim the eel and clean the belly. belly. Cut off off the head, which is thrown away, and cut the the fish fish into slices or leave leave whole, as directed in the recipe. recipe. the the eel eel whole, whole, you you can can cut it into Instead of skinning the Instead pieces. Grill them for a few moments under a brisk flame, flame, pieces. turning them them to catch the skin on on all ail sides. Under Under the action action turning of the the heat heat the the skin blisters blisters and and can can be be easily taken taken off. of This method method of of skinning skinning also also has has the advantage advantage of of removing removing This the excess excess fat. fat. the An eel weighing weighing about about 750 750 g. (li (ltlb.) be cooked in the An lb.) can be court-bouillon (white or red wine) following way in in a wine court-bouillon following the eel into 6-cm. (2*-inch) (2~-inch) pieces, or vegetables. Cut the with vegetables. leave whole, whole, and and cook cook in in a a well-buttered well-buttered pan pan on on a a foundation leave oz., i ~ cup) each each of of chopped onions onions and carrots carrots of 50 g. (2 oz., per litre litre (scant (scant quart, generous generous quart) liquid. liquid. Press well weil to per make the the fish lie lie flat. Add a crushed crushed clove c10ve of garlic and a a make bouquet garni (q.v.). Season with with salt and and freshly freshly ground ground bouquet pepper. Cover Coyer the the fish fish with the the wine and cook cook slowly slowly on the pepper. of the the stove. stove. side of side court-bouillon can afterwards afterwards be prepared Eel cooked in court-bouillon Eel Ia la bourguignonne, bourguignonne, fied, fried, grilled, grilled, d la tartare, en en matelote, matelote, in in d 330 330

EEL EEL

pike pike or whiting whiting forcemeat forcemeat mixed mixed with with chopped chopped parsley. parsley .
Prepare as described under under Hot ballottine ballottine of of eel and poach poach glaze, and arrange on a in a red wine court-bouillon. court-bouillon. Drain, glaze, croton of of crustless crustless bread bread fried fried in in butter. butter. Garnish Garnish ri /a la cro0ton GARNISHES) and and cover coyer with with ,BorrBourbourguignonne (see (see GARNISHES) bourguignonne guignonne SAUCE) made made with with the the liquor liquor left guignonne sauce (see (see SAUCE) fish. over from cooking the fish. Ballottine la gauloise. BALLoTTTNE BALLOTTINe o'.rNclrtrrs D'ANGUILLE A BaUottine of eel I LA LA cAULorsE GAULOISE - Stuff the eel with pike or whiting forcemeat forcemeat mixed truffies and and mushrooms. mixed with with a a salpicon (q.v.) (q .v.) of truffies and poach in Prepare as as described in Hot Hot ballottine ballotline of eel eel and white white wine court-bouillon. Drain, and arrange on a crustless croton of bread fried fried in butter. Surround Surround with artichoke artichoke crotton hearts hearts filled [1.\)00 with carps' carps' soft soft roes roes cooked cooked in butter, butter, and pastry boats filled with Crayfish tail tail ragottt ragot d Ia la Nanttn Nantua (see CRAYboats FISH) . FrsH). Boil down the liquor liquor in which the eel was cooked, thicken thicken witb Espagnole sauce (see SAUCE), add butter, strain, and with pour over the dish. dish.

bastion ofeel, baSLion of cel. after Car6me lfte. Ca rme

BASTIoN D'ANGUILLE D'ANcUILLE 2 large eels, Bone 2 Bastion of eel. eel. BASTiON - Bone fill them and diced diced truffies. fill thern with with a truffles . a pike or whiting stuffing and Wrap in a piece of muslin and tie with string. Cook in white wine well-flavoured fish fish stock. stock. Drain,' Drain, unwrap, unwrap, and wine and and well-flavoured cool under a press. a press. (4 inches) jnches) long, and Cut the eels into pieces about about JO l0 cm. cm. (4 coat with Chaud-froid sauce (see SA UCE) prepared prepared with the SAUCE) liquor in which fish was cooked. Decorate with truffies which the fish truffles pieces of and small small pieces hard-boiled egg whites. Glaze Glaze with and egg whites. of hard-boiled jelly. Arrange on on a a bed bod of cooked rice rice or on buttered liquid jelly. pieces upright, next to crotons cro0tons of bread, placing the pieces to each halved hardother. other. Gamish of the the dish dish with with halved the border of Garnish the boiled eggs and jelly crotons crottons.. press and Poached Poachd fille15 fillets of of sole, sole, cooled cooled under under a a press and cut cut to like 10ophoJes, loopholes, can look Jike can be lISed used as as decoration for bastions jelly of eel. eel. The The holes holes should should be filled in in with with truffles, of be filled truffies, jelly crotons, Montpellier butter (see BUTTER, Compound cro0tons, and and Montpellier Compound prepared for grand occasions. butters). These dishes are bultp.r.I'). are prepared occasions. femme. ANGUILLE Eel i la la bonne ANcUILLE A LA rl BONNE soNr.rE FEMME FEMME Eel bonne femme. pieces or Place an an ee) weight, either cut in left Place either cut eel of of average weight, in pieces or Ieft pan on and rolled rolled into a a ring, ring, in in a on a a foundation foundation of 4 whole and a pan (5 tablespoons) tablespoons (5 lightly fried fried in tablespoons in tablespoons) chopped chopped onion onion Jightly pepper, add butter. Season with salt a bouquet garni and salt and pepper, butter. add a and pint, with 3 dl. l] dl. (t wine. Poach gently, moisten with t, 1 t cups) white wine. $ pin pan, for with the the !id lid on for 25 with on the the pan, 25 minutes. Drain the the eel and arrange arrange on on crotons crofftons of bread fried in Drain in eel and bread fried diced potatoes fried fried in in butter. butter. Garnish with diced Boil down the pan juices by half, blend I tablespoon Boil blend with 1 fish. Sprinkle with kneaded butter, strain, and pour over over the fish. parsley. chopped parsley. chopped Collared ee~ eel, cold. RoULADE D'ANGUILLE, FROIDE FRoTDE Collared cold. ROULADE - Bone and stuff stuff an an eel, eel, make make into a ring, and and a ring, and proceed as as described described in the the recipe recipe for in for Ballottine of eel, eel, cold. Collared eel eel I'angevine. ROULADE Collared i l'angevine. RoULADE D'ANGUILLE D'ANcurLLE A L'ANcEvINE -- Skin Skin and bone an L'ANGEVINE an eel eel and and season season with with salt salt and and

pepper. Stulf Stuff with pike forcemeat bound bound with an egg and a salpicon mushrooms and truffies. tcuffies. Reshape Reshape the the eel, salpicon (q.v.) (q .v.) of mushrooms wrap it in rashers of bacon, make into inta a ring and tie tie with string. Fry sliced onion onion and carrot carrot lightly lightly in butter. butter. Put the eel in in a a pan pan on on this bed bed of of vegetables, vegetables, together with with a a leek, leek, a branch branch of savory and a large bouquet bouquet garni. garni. Cover the fish with white Anjou wine (not (not too sweet). Bring Bring to the the boil and white Anjou remove scum. scum. Simmer Sim mer gently for [or 35 35 minutes with the pan covered. covered . Drain the fish. fish . Unwrap and put it into another pan with peeled mushrooms mushrooms which have been tossed in butter. Make Make a white roux (q.v.) of 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz., i c.tp) cup) butter and 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz., oz., * ~ cup) flour. flour. Dilute with with the the strained strained pan pan juices, juices, ",rp) blend blend well, weil, and and add add the the parings of the the mushrooms. musbrooms. Boil down on full heat, and add 3j dl. (generous (generous 1pin t, lj l! cups) I pint, fresh Simmer until until the the sauce sauce reaches reaches the the desired fresh cream. cream. Simmer Crayfish butter consistency, and and add add 100 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz., ! cup) Crayjish butter i "up) (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). bUl/ers). Collared la la bordelaise. bordelaise. RoULADE ROULADE n'.c.NcuLte D'ANGUILLE A ta LA Collared eel eel il BoRDELATsE Stuff the eel with Fish nORDELAlSE - Stuff Fishforcemeat (see FORCEforcemeat (see MEAT) flavoured fl.avoured with anchovy butter to which has has been added chopped parsley. Make the eel eel into a ring and poach in a a red red Bordeaux wine court-bouillon. Drain, Drain , arrange on a middle. cpes tn in the rniddle. dish, and put a pyramid of cooked cipes strain, as Thicken the Thicken the pan pan juices juices with with kneaded kneaded butter, butter, strain, indicated sauce (see SA SAUCE) UCE) and and pour indica ted for thin thin Bordelaise sauce fish. Garnish over the fish. Garnish with with heart-shaped heart-shaped cro0tons croo.tons fried fried in butter. bUller. prepared in the same of stuffed eel eel d bordelaise are Pieces of la bordelaise are preparw manner. royale. RoULADE A LA tt Collared eel i la Collared eel la royale. ROULADE o'^lNcuttrl D'ANGUILLE RoyALE eel into a a ring, and and poach a medium-sized eel ROYALE - Make a a mirepoix mirepoix (q.v.) in wine court-bouillon in white white wine court-bouillon with with a (q.v.) of get cold Leave to to get cold in in its vegetables. Leave i15 liquor. liquor. Drain, dry, dry, and (see SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). Fry in deep fat coat with with Villeroi .Iauet! fat and drain. Fill the centre with soft roes d la la Villeroi. Villeroi. Surround with Fill with soft dressed crayfish cooked in in court bouillon, alternating alternating with dressed (see parsley. Serve with sauce (see bunches of of fried bunches fried parsLey. with Normande Normande sauce SAUCE) UCE) to which chopped truffies truffles have been added. SA D'ANGUITII Eel coulibiac (Russian cookery). COULIBIAC couLIBIAc D Eel ' ANGUILLE (see given for Follow the of salmon salmon (see the recipe Coulibiac of Follow recipe given for Coulibiac SALMON), replacing the the salmon by boned, shced sliced eel. SALMON), pETITS COULillIACS o'aNcultts -- See Little eel epl coulibiacs. PETITS couLIBIAcs D'ANGUILLE SALMON, Small coulibiacs coulibiacs of of salmon. SALMON, with paprika, or I la la hongroise. ANGUILLE lNcuLrs A El in crearo cream with Eel tl CRME, AU PAPRIKA, IArRIKA, DITE DITE A LA u HONGROISE noNcnolsE -- Cut Cut an an eel cniuE, AU LA pieces and into pieces a saucepan on a a foundation of and put them in a into paprika, fried in butter. Sprinkle wilh with paprika, shredded onion lightly friee! addabouquet and season season.. add a bouquet garni and fish with with white white wine wine and and bring bring to to the Cover the the fish the boil. Coyer pan and for 20 20 minutes. About About 8 Cover the the pan and cook cook for 8 minutes Coyer peeled mushrooms heads. the end end of of cooking, cooking, add add peeled before the eel on a a croton cro0ton of fried bread, Drain, arrange each piece of eel garnish with the Keep hot. and garnish the mushrooms. Keep and juices by half and and strain strain.. Add 2 the pan juices 2 tabletableBoil down the (see SAUCE) (3 tablespoons) Veloutd sauce (see spoons (3 tablespoons) thin thin Velout SAUCE) and spoons (+ piot, pint, seant 2 dl. dl. (1scant cup) cup) cream. cream. Cook Cook until until the the sauce sauce coats 2 g. (3 the surface surface of a spoon spoon. Add 75 75 g. oz, 6 6 tablespoons) tablespoons) of a the . Add Q oz., fish.. and pour over the fish butter, strain, and Make a Eel I la la diable. diable. ANGUILLE ANGUILLE A LA rl DIABLE oHsrB -- Make a mediumEel sized eel eel into a a ring. ring. Poach in in white wine wine court-bouillon, and and sized liquor. Drain, dry, dry, coat to cool cool in in the the Iiquor. coat with with mustard, leave to sprinkle with melted and dip dip [n in breadcrumbs mixed melted butter, butter, and sprinkle pinch of pepper. Sprinkle Sprinkle again with melted a pinch of cayenne pepper. with a grill gently gently. butter and grill . Surround with with a a border of gherkins half slices slices of and balf border of eherkins and Surround

:tt

33r 331

EEL
decoratively cut lemon. decoratively eut lemon. Serve Serve with with Diable Diable sauce sauce (see (see sAUCE). SAUCE). Eel I la fermibre. fermire. ANGUILLE ANGU-ILLE ,i, rl LA rnnudns FERMIERE - Cut Cut an an eel Eel tbem in a pan on a foundation of 2 dl. into pieces and put them ($ Season (t pint, pint, scant scant cup) cup) of a fondue (q.v.) of vegetables. Season dl. (scant with 2l with salt salt and and pepper. pepper. Moisten Moisten with 2! dl. (scant I t pint, with generous generous cup) white wine and add a bouquet garni. Bring Bring to cover the pan, pan. and cook for 25 to 30 minutes. Drain, the boil, cover cro0tons of bread. and arrange the the pieces pieces of eel eel on on fried fried crotons bread. and and pour cream, and Boil down down the the pan pan juices, juices, thicken thicken with with cream, Boil
over the fish. rN rntclssfp an eel into eel. ANGUILLE EN FRICASSE - Cut an eel imo Fricasse of eel. Fricass6e (2| inches), pieces of about 6 to 7 cm. cm. (21 inches), season season with salt and pan. Add pepper, 12 wella well-buttered pepper, and and put put into into a well-buttered pan. Add 12 and a a bouquet garni. garni. Moisten with with water blanched onions and Bring to the boil, cover and white wine in equal proportions. Brng and simmer for 25 to 30 minutes. About 5 minutes the pan, and add l0 tbe end of cooking cooking add 10 sliced mushrooms. before the dish, and and garnish Drain the arrange on on a the fish, fish, arrange a shallow shallow dish, Strain the with the the well-drained well-drained onions onions and and mushrooms. Strain with (scant I cup) pan Veloutd cup) tbin thin Velout pan juices, juices, add 3 tablespoons (seant add 3 sauce (see SA UCE) and boil down by half. SAUCE) (6 tablespoons, Add mixed with wilh I 1 dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, scant egg yolks mixed Add 2 2 egg t cup) cream and 50 g. oz., t cup) butter. butter. Strain, and pour E (2 oz.,i * fried in cro0tons fried fish. Garnish heart-shaped crotons over the fish. Garnish with heart-shaped butter. Skin small small eels, eels, make light Fried - Skin Fried eel. eel. ANGUILLE FRITE figures of and twist into rings or figures incisions on backs, and twist into rings or on Ihe the backs, incisions in milk, dredge with eigbt. with skewers. Soak in wth flour eight. Secure with parsley and fried parsley and quarters and n deep fat. fat. Garnish with fried and fry in of lemon. an eel eel into oRLy -- Slice Slice an Fried eel Orly. ANGUILLE FRITE ORLY Fried eel Orly. .lucuILLE dry. Garnsh Garnish fiUets, balter, and dry. season, dip in a light batter, fillets, flatten, season, SAUCE). with fried parsley parsley and serve with Tomato sauce (see SAUCE). with eel slices can be dipped in beaten egg and breadcrumbs The eel instead of butter. butter.

Fd Eel I I'italienne. l'italienne. ANGUILLE A AL'ITI,LIENxr L'[TALlENN"E- Cut a mediumsized eel eel in uniform unifonn pieces, rieces, season, and fry briskly in oil to stiffen the fish. nsh. Remove from from the pan, pan. and in in the same oil brown brown 2 tablespoons (3 (J tablespoons) chopped onion. When and 125 nearly nearly done, add add I 1 teaspoon leuspoon chopped shallots and 125 g. (4 (4 oz.) diced mushrooms musbrooms or mushroom mushroom stalks. Put the the eel dl. (6 scant * back back into the the pan, pan, add add 1 dl. (6 tablespoons, seant t cup) and 2t dl. white wine and dl. (scant (seant t pint, pint, generous geoerous cup) tomato sauce. sauce. Simmer gently, genlly, with wth the lid on the pan, for 25 25 to to 30

Gallantine of of eel Gallantine in a coil. coil, arranged io arrange<! after Carme Careme afler

(q.v.) of (see FORCEMEAT) FORCEMEAT) and and with with a a salpicon salpicon (q.v.) crime (see crme fillets of sole sole [0 to which which truffies truffies have been added. added. Twist the fillets have been with into a a dome dome shape, shape, and and secure secure with eel, eel, coiling it upwards into string [0 to help help it it keep keep this this shape. shape. Cook Cook in in a a well-flavoured well-flavoured string fish stock. stockwhite wine fish leave to to cool. with Chaud-froid sauce Drain, cool. Cover Drain, and and Icave Cover with (see SAUCE) with the the Iiquor liquor in in which which the the fish fish (see SAUCE) prepared with with truffies truffies and and hard-boiled hard-boiled egg was cooked. cooked. Decorate Decorate with was jelly. Serve on a rice, or white. Glaze Glaze with fish jelly. a bed of of.cooked or cooked riee. white. bread crotons. cro0tons. on buttered bread jellied eel. eel. GALANTINE D'ANGurm Galantine of of jellied clrnNTrNE D'ANGUILLE A LA r,c, Galantine for Cold ballottine ofeel. cfrm -- Another name for of eel. GLEE eel maitre maitre d'htel. d'h6tel. ANGUILLE ANGUTLLE GRILLE cnnr6n MAtTRE u.drnr GriUed Grilld eel o'tt6ttt -- Prepare Prepare the the eel eel as as described described for for Eel d la la diable, diable, D'H6TEL omitting the the mus1ard. mustard. Cover Cover with with softened softend Matre Maitre d'htel d'h6tel omitting (see BUTTER, Compound butter (see Compound bUllers). butters). buller can be served witb with ail recommended Grilld eel eel can all the sauces recommended be served Grilled grilled fish. for grilled
332 332

D'ANGInLLE a eoit. coil. GALANTINE cALANTINE D'ANGUILLE Galantine of eel arranged in a with Pike forcemeat d la EN VOLUIT voLUTE - Bone Bone a alarge eel. Stuff wi EN large eel. th Pike

sprinkle with chopped parsley, chervil To serve, minutes. To serve, sprinkle and tarragon. tarragon. Eel en matelote. ANcUILLE ANGUILLE EN MATELoTE MA TELOTI - Cut a a skinned for Matelote eel eel into pieces and prepare as as described described for Matelote d la marinidre meunilre (see MATELOTE). marinire or d la meunire Eel en matelote h la normande. ANGUILLE ANG lJILLE sN EN tlrlTErorc MATELOTE A proceed as LA Cut an LA NoRMANpB NORMANDE - Cut an eel eel into into pieces pieces and and proceed normande (se,e described described for Matelote Malelote d la normande (see MATELOTE). MATELOTE). Eel i la meuniire. meunire. lNcutI,re ANGUILLE A rn LA Ir,muminn MEUNlRE- Cut small eels pieces. Season, into 10-cm. Season, dredge with flour 1O-cm. (,l-inch) (4-inch) pieces. f10ur and fry fry in on top, in butter. butter. Scatter chopped chopped parsley parsley on top, sprinkle sprinkle with lemon juice, butter (see juice, and cover caver with Noisette Noiselle bUller (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). bUll ers). D'ANGLTLLE Hot eel cnauo D'ANGlJlLLE eel pie Hot pie (English PT CHAUD @nglish cookery). pArf about A of a t'.lNcr,^arsnof eel into slices of L'ANGLAlSE - Cut trimmed t(immed fillets of bout 5 to drain, and leave 6^. (2 cm. (2 inches). inches). Blanch in in salted salted water, drain, leave 10 grated nutmeg, and cool. Season Season with salt, pepper, and grated cool. wjth salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and with chopped chopped parsley. sprinkle sprinkle with parsley. slices in a Arrange a pie dish, alternating alternating with Arrange the eel sJices wlth layers sliced hard-boiled eggs. Cover the of sliced bard-boiled eggs. Ihe fish fish with with white wine, (see with Puff and add a Cover with and a few dabs dabs of butter. butter. Cover Puff pastry pastry (see crimp the the edges, edges, and and DOUGH). Brush Brush with beaten egg, egg, crimp with beaten a hole in the middle middle of the pastry to allow steam to make a pastry to escape. Bake in a moderate oven for escape. for li hours. a few into the pie a To serve, pour ioto few tablespoons thin Demi Demiglace (see SAUCE). pArE m6nagire. PT called la aux fines fines herbes, calle<! Hot eel eel pie pe aux la menagre. otrs u6u.lcinn - CUI Cut eel A LA ut MNAGERE cHAUD Arrx CHAUD AUX FINES f1NES HERBES HERBES DITE lightly and and season into S-cm. 5-cm. (2-inch) pieces. Flatten lightly slices ioto pepper and and sprinkle wilh with salt, pepper and spices. spices. Put in a a dish and with saIl, oil. Leave in and a a dash dash of olive oil. white wine, a a little brandy brandy and place to marinate for 2 hours. a cool place a butter, and the pieces, fry fry them thern briskly in Drain and dry the in butter, shallots and parsley. Remove liberally with cbopped chopped shallots sprinkle Iiberally the pan from the heat and pour into it the marinade. Leave heat and to stand until quite cold. pastry. Cover pie dish with a a layer of pike dish with a pie Cover with Line a with pastry. layer of eel pieces choppod parsley added. Place the eel forcemeat with chopped layers of the the forcemeat. on top, top, aJternating alternating with on with layers rorcemeat. Sprinkle with a a 2-cm. and finish each layer layer with marinade and each with the the marinade finish with (}inch) melted butter and and G-inch) layer of forcemeat. Sprinkle with meHed cut in in fancy cover with pastry. Decorate the the top with pastry cut rancy escape. Brush Make an to allow to escape. an opening to shapes. Make allow steam 10 shapes. Brusb hours. a moderate oven oven for for 2 hours. with egg, egg, and and bake in a thin Demi glace a few few tablespoons tablespoons thin Before serving, serving, pour a Beforc the opening into the dish. SAUCE) througb the (see SA UCE) through pArf CHAUD pie la A LA crnuo o'lNcutttr Hot eel eel pie la Nantua. Nanha. PT Hot D'ANGUILLE for Hot l'el eel pie recipe for NANTUA as described in in the the recipe - Proceed as with trumes, truffies, pike herbes, using eel eel slices slices studded studded with aux fines fines herbes, (see BUTTER, BUTTER, with Crayfish butter (see forcemeat ftavoured flavoured witb Crayfuh buller forcemeat Compound bUlters), butters), and and crayfish tails. Compollnd pie a Veloutd sauce sauce few tablespoons thin thin Velout the pie a few into the Pour into Pour SAUCE) (see SA UCE) flavoured with crayfish butter. pArE CHAUD pie witb D'ANcUILLE AUX Aux cueuo D'ANGUILLE Hot eel eel pie with truffies. trufles. PTI Hol Hot ee/ recipe for for Hot eel pie as describcd describd in the the recipe TRUFITEs TRUFFES - Proceed as and truffies, and slices of eel eel studded with truffles, herbes, using slices aux filles aux fines herbes, pike forcemeat alternating forcemeat and and diced dicd truffles, trufreso alternating a mixture of pike a slices of truffies. with thick slices pAru FROID (English eookery). pie (Englisb o'lNcuttt.u A rnon D'ANGUILLE cookery). PT eel pie Cold eel

lj

EEL

(Robert Carrier) Eel en Eel en matelote matelote (Robert Carrier)

333 333

EFFERVESCENCE EFFER VESCENCE

L'ANGLATSE -- Proceed Proceed as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for Hal Hot eel eel L'ANGLAISE pie. Leave Leave la to cool cool for for several several hours hours before before serving. serving. pie. pArf fROiD pie Cold eel eel pie i la la mnagre. m6nagire. PT rnon D'ANGUILLE D'ANcr.[rrr A Cold rl MNAGRE MfN,c,ctRE -- Proceed Proceed as as described described in in the recipe for the recipe for HOI Hot LA pie aux pie is eel pie aux fines herbes. When quite cold, When the the pie pour in is quite cold, pour in fines herbes. eel jelly made through the the opening pastry, liquid opening in in the the pastry, liquid aspic aspic jelly made through from fisn fish bones. bones. Leave Leave for get cold for 12 12 hours hours to to get cold again. again. from pArr FROID pie with CoH eel eel pe with truffles. trufres. PT rnom D'ANGUILLE D'ANcurLr-E AUX Ar.rx Cold TRUFFES -- As As HOI Hot eel pie will! eel pie truffies. Finish with truffies. Finish with with fish fish aspic aspic TRUFFES jelly based based on on truffle trufre essence. essence. Leave Leave for get cold. for 12 12 hours hours to to get cold. jelly prfuoNrarsn - Prepare pi6montaise. ANGUILLE EeI i la la pimontaise. ANGUTLLE A 1--\ m PIMONTAISE Eel - Prepare a medium-sized medium-sizd eel, eel, or or eel eel slices, slices, as as described described in in the recipe the recipe a for Gri/led Grilled eel eel matre maitre d'hlel. d'h6tel. Arrange Arrange on on a a faundation foundation of of for pidmontadse (see (see RICE). Risotto d la Ia pimontaise RICE). Surround Surround with with a a border RisOllO (see SA of Tomalo Tomato sauce sauce (see SAUCE). of UCE). pournrre -- Fry poulette. ANGUILLE Eel t la la poulette. ANGUTLLE A LA r,c, POULETTE Fry 2 2 tabletableEel (3 tablespoons) spoons (3 gently in tablespoons) chopped chopped onion onion gently in butter. Add Add spoons eel slices, slices, cooking cooking them them for for a a minute minute or or two two in in the the butter. eel pepper, and Sprinkle with with salt salt and and pepper, and 1 I tablespoon tablespoon Hour. flour. Cover Cover Sprinkle the fish fish with with white white wine wine and garni. Simmer and add add a a bouquet bouquet garni. Simmer the gently, with pan, for with the the lid lid on on the the pan, for 25 25 to to 30 30 minutes. minutes. About About gently, l0 minutes minutes before peeled, sliced before serving serving add 12 peeled. add 12 sliced mushrooms. 10 garnished with Serve the the fish fish garnished with the the mushrooms. mushrooms. Thicken Thicken the Serve juices with pan juices yolks, as with egg egg yolks, as described described for for Poule Poulette sauce pan Ile sauce (see SAUCE). pour overthe SAUCE). Strain, Strain, pour over the fish, fish, and and sprinkle with with (see parsley. chopped parsley. chopped pnovENgALE - Fry Eel provengale. ANGmLLE i la la provenale. ANGUTLLE A LA r,c, PROVENALE ~l - Fry 2 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons (3 tablespoons) chopped gently in chopped onion onion gently in oil, oil, tablespoons eel slices slices and add eel and toss toss in the fried fried onion. onion. Season Season with with salt add in the pepper, add and pepper, add 4 4 peeled, deseeded, chopped chopped tomatoes, tomatoes, a and peeled, deseeded, garni, and garlic. Moisten bouquet garni, and a crushed garlic. a little with 1 I dL dl. bouquet little crusbed Moisten with (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, seant! scant I cup) cup) white white wine. gently with Simmer with (6 wine. Sim mer gently pan for ,25 to the lid on on the 30 minutes. minutes. About About 10 l0 minutes the pan for .25 to 30 the lid before serving add add20 Simmer slowly. Sprinkle Sprinkle before serving 20 black black olives. olives. Simmer with serving. with chopped chopped parsley parsley just just before before serving. Eel risotto. ANcUTLLE Rrsorro. See See Eel d la Ia ANGUIlLE AU AU RISOTTO. Eel Eel with witb rsoUo. piCmontaise. pimontaise. Eel la romrine. r.,c, Rorr,rA,rr.[E A LA a mediumEel i la romaine. ANcurLr.,E ANGUilLE ROMAINE Cut a medium- Cut size Season with salt and size eel eel into into 5-cm. 5-cm. (2-inch) (2-inch) pieces. pieces. Season with salt pepper (12 o2.,2| g. (12 pepper and aod fry fry briskly briskly in in butter. buUer. Add Add 350 350 g. oz., 2~ cups) freshly freshly shelled shelled garden garden peas, peas, a a small small lettuce lettuce shredded shredded into oto a a chffinade chiffonade (q.v.), (q.v.), 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz., Ol., i cup) butter butter and and 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons I cup) (3 slowly in (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) white while wine. wine. Cook Cook slowly in an an uncovered uncovered pan. pan. Just Just before before serving, serving, blend blend in in j i tablespoon tablespoon kneaded kneaded butter. butter. Eel Ee1 on on skewers skewers i I'anglaise. l'anglaise. ANcUTLLE ANGUlLLE EN EN BRocHErre BROCHETTE A juice, L'ANcLAISE L'ANGLAISE - Marinate Marinate eel eel pieces pieces in in oil, oil, lemon lemon juice, pepper, pepper, salt, salt, and aod chopped chopped parsley parsley for for I 1 hour. hour. Drain, Drain, dredge dredge in flour, flour, dip dip in in egg, egg, and and roll roll in in breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. Thread Tbread on on metal skewers, puttng a a slice slice of of fat fat bacon bacon between betweeo each each piece piece of of skewers, putting fish. fish. Grill Grill on on a a low low flame. flame. Garnish Garnish with with parsley, parsley, and and half half slices slices of of decoratively decoratively cut lemon. lemon. Serve Serve with with Tartare Tartare sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Eel Eel i la la tartare tartare I. J. al.rcurrr-E ANGUILLE A r.l LA rmrmrTARTARE - Cook Cook eel eel slices sUces in courl-bouillon. Leave Leave to to cool cool in in this this liquor. liquor. in white white wine wine court-bouillon. Drain, Drain, dry, dry, dip dip ir in egg egg and and breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, and and deep-fry. deep-fry. Garnish Garoish with with fried fried parsley parsley and and serve serve with with Tartare Tartare sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SA VCE). Frl Eel i la la tartare tartare II. U. lNcurrrs ANGlJ1LLE A r,l LA r,c,RrA,nn TARTARE - Cook Cook the the eel eel as as described described above. above. Drain, Drain, dry, dry, coat coat with with melted melted butter, butter, and and roll roll in in finely finely grated grate<! breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with melted mc1ted butter butter and and grill grill on on a a gentle geotle heat. heat. Surround Surround with with a a border border of of gherkins gherkins and and half half slices slices of of decoratively decoratively cut cut lemon. lemon. Serve Serve with with Tartare Tor/are sauce sauce (see (see sAUCE). SAUCE). Hot Hot eel ee1 tourte. tourte. ToLIRTE TOURTE cHAUDE CHAUDE D'l,NcuILLE D'ANGUilLE - Proceed Proceed as as described in the'recipe the' recipe for for Hot HOI eel eel pie pie aux aux fines filles herbes, herbes, described in pie using using a a pie dish dish with with slightly slghtly raised raised edges. edges.

Cold eel eel tourte. tourte. TOURTE FRoTDE D'ANGUILLE TorJRrE FROIDE D'ANcurLLE -- Proceed Proceed as as Cold described in in the the recipe recipe for pie for Cold Cold eel eel pie la mnagre, d la minagire, using using described pie dish a pie dish with with slightly slightly raised raised edges. edges. a CoId eel eel tourte tourte Rabelais. Rabelais. TOURTE FRoTDE D'ANGUILLE TouRTE FROIDE D'ANcurLLE Cold RABELAIS -- Bone Bone an an eel, eel, flatten flatten it, put it it, and and put it into into a a shallow shallow RABELAIS pepper and dish with with salt, salt, pepper and spices. spices. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with a a few few tabletabledish spoons white white wine, wine, a little brandy, a lite brandy, and and olive olive oil. oil. Leave Leave for for spoons I hOill hour to place. to marinate marinate in in a a cool cool place. 1 Stuffthe (see FORCEMEAT, eel with with whiting whiting forcemeat forcemeat (see FORCEMEAT, Stuff the eel Fish forcemeM II) in in alterna alternate layers with with shelled shelled crayfish crayfish Fish ce layers forcemeat II) tails, olives olives stuffed stuffed with with anchovy pieces of anchovy fillets, fillets, and and pieces of trume. truffie. tails, pie pastry pastry a Line with with pie pie dish a pie dish which which has has slightly slightly raised raised Line edges. Cover Cover the the pastry with with a a layer layer of whiting forcemeat of whiting forcemeat edges. parsley. Reshape the mixed with with chopped chopped parsley. the eel eel and and put it it into into mixed pie dish. dish. the pie Fill the pie with the middle middle of of the the pie with small small rolled rolled fillets fillets of of sole, sole, Fill half of of them them stuffed stuffed with with whiting whiting forcemeat forcemeat mixed mixed with half (see BUTTER, Compound Crayfish buller butter (see Compound bUllers), butters), the other other Crayfish half pur6e of mixed with with a a pure of truffies. trufres. ha If with whiting forcemeat mixe<! whole a layer of of whiti whiting forcemeat aux auxfines Cover the w hole with a ng forcemeat fines (see FORCEMEA herbes (see FORCEMEAT, II). Top Top the the pie herbes T, Fish forcemeat forcemeat Il). pastry, seal with pastry, seal the the edges, edges, and and decorate decorate with with pastry eut cut in in with fancy shapes. shapes. Make Make an an opening in pie to in the pie to allow allow steam to fancy to eseape. Brush Brush with beaten egg and and bake in a a moderate moderate oven escape. for about about 1 I hour, hour. Leave get quite quite cold. Leave to to get few cold. Pour Pour in in a a few for jelly. fish aspic jelly. tablespoons fish la tyrolienne. ANGUillE im ANGUTLLE A LA r,l TYROLIENNE rynouENNE Eel - Cook the describd in the recipe eel as as described recipe for for Grilled eel mitre mditre d'htel. d'h6tel. eel Arrange on onafondue tomatoes. Gamish Garnish with onion onion Arrange afondue (q.v.) of tomatoes. rings fried fried in butter. Sprinkle with chopped parsley. parsley. au vert. ANGUTLLEs and divide ANGUILLF_<i AU AU vERT VERT Eels au - Skin 2 eels and into Fry 2 handfuls of spinach leaves, a inlo 5-cm (2-inch) pieces. Fry few few tarragon leaves, leaves, 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) pounded parsley a pinch of burnet, and a a few few sage leaves in parsley leaves, a pinch of burnet, and butter. Toss the eel pieces in this mixture 50 g. g. (2 Q oz., t I cup) butter. for a a few minutes. Season with salt, freshly ground pepper, pepper, and a small pinch pinch of powdered powdered thyme chyme and and bay leaf. pint,2f, Cover with 5 dl. (scant (seant pint, 2{ cups) white wine. Bring to the pan, away away from from the the boil. boil. Simmer, with wilh the the lid lid on the pan, direct heat, for for l0 10 minutes. Bind with 3 egg yolks and a dash of of lemon juice. juice. Transfer to an an earthenware dish dish and and keep in a very cold place. place. in a

EFFERVESCENCE EFFERVESCENCE - The release of gas in a liquid.

EGG.HOLDER. EGG-HOLDER. orurnrm. OEUFRIER

eggs.

Utensil used used for soft-boiling

EGGNOG. LAIr LAIT DE DE pouI,E POULE - Nourishing drink made from pint,2t cups) sweetened egg yolk mixed t litre (scant pint, mixed with I water or milk, roilk, flavoured with orange-flower orange-flower water, vanilla, vaniHa, or grated nutmeg, nutmeg, and laced laced with rum or brandy. brandy. The The Germans Gennans make make a a beer beer eggnog eggnog which which they they call cali biersuppe. biersuppe. This This is prepared prepared as follows: Boil Boil 2 2 litres litres (3{ (31 pints, pints, 4} 4t pints) pints) beer beer with 500 g. (18 (\8 oz., 2| cups) cups) sugar, sugar, a pinch pinch of of salt, salt, a a little Iittle grated grated lemon rind rind and a pinch pinch of of cinnamon. cinnamon. Add Add 8 egg yolks yolks mixed mixed with I 1 tabletablespoon cold milk. milk. Strain and and chill. chilI. Just before before serving serving add add fried fried black black bread bread crottons crotons and 100 100 g. (4 (4 o2.,3 oz., j cup) cup) each of of raisins raisins and and currants currants which which have have been been cooked cooked in in 5 5 dl. (scant (scant pint,Zf, pint, 2;\ cups) cups) water water and and well weil drained. drained.

2t

2*

EGGPLANT EGGPLANT _ - See See AUBERGINE. AUBERGINE. all ail be be used used as as food. food. Hens' Hens' eggs, eggs, however, however, are are mostly mostly used used in in cookery, cookery, and and it it is is with with them them that that the the following following article article mainly mainly deals. dea)s. Eggs Eggs are are very very nutritious. nutritious. They They are are often often eaten eaten raw, raw, particularly particularly in in country country districts. districts. Composition of eggs eggs - The The average average weight weight of of a a hen's hen's egg egg Composition of
334 334

EGGS. EGGS. oEt/Fs OEUFS - The The eggs eggs of of fish, fish, birds birds and and even even reptiles reptiles can can

EGGS EGGS
is is 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz.). oz.). The The shell sheli weighs weighs about about 12 12 per per cent cent of of the the total weight weight of of the the egg egg and and is s made made of of a a calcareous, calcareous, porous porous total substance which which is is pervious pervious to to air, air, water, water, and and smells. smells. It It is is substance lined lined with with a a delicate, delicate, pellucid pellucid membrane membrane which wruch separates separates itself from from the the shell shell at at the the larger larger end end of of the the egg egg to to form form the the itself air air chamber. cham ber. The The size size of of this this chamber cham ber is is in in inverse inverse proproportion portion to to the the freshness freshness of of the the egg egg - the the fresher fresher the the egg egg the the Ostrich, Ostrich, turkey, turkey, peacock peacock and and duck duck eggs eggs are are bigger bigger than than

chicken chicken eggs; eggs; pigeon, pigeon, guinea-fowl, guinea-fowl, pheasant, pheasant, partridge, partridge,

smaller the the chamber. chamber. smaller The The albumen, albumen, or or white white of of the the egg, egg, is is a a thick, truck, viscous, viscous, transparent liquid, liquid, with with a a high high percentage percentage of of water, water, and and transparent sorne mineral mineral substances. substances. Albumen Albumen is is soluble soluble in in cold cold water. water, some congeals congeals at at 70"C. 70C. (158"F.) (158F.) and and remains remains from from then then on insoluble. insoluble. It forms forms about 58 per per cent cent of of the the total total weight weight of of the egg. egg. the vitellus, or yolk yolk of the the egg egg (30 (30 per per cent cent of the total The vitellus, is an an opaque, opaque, soft soft substance substance which which congeals congeals in weight), is heat. The yolk is is composed of albumins, albumins, fats fats containing containing heat. vitarnins, lecithins, leci thins, nucleins, nucleins, chlorestins, chlorestins, and and mineral mineraI vitamins, substances including including a a ferruginous ferruginous pigment pigment called caUed substances haematogen, which which gives gives it it its its colour. col our. haematogen, The composition of the egg varies with the breed of the - the latter also influences influences the flavour of of the hen and its diet egg. egg. The best best eggs eggs come from free-range hens, which eat eat the The proportion of grain and and vegetable vegetable matter. right proportion It DieteticaIly, the the fresh egg egg is is almost almost a a complete food. food. It Dietetically, fats, Vitamins A, B, B, D contains easily assimilable proteins, fats, of (only Vitamin C is absent), an appreciable amount amount of and E (only iron, and a number number of of valuable mineral minerai salts: magnesium, a minute quantity quantity of calcium, calcium, sodium, potassium, manganese, minute fluorine, etc. The egg, being chlorine, iodine, fluorine, being a copper, zinc, chlorine, bearer of life, also contains precious oligo-elements. The table table below shows that the average egg yolk weighing (* oz.) g. (1 than the white, 18 times more calories than supplies 6 times 18 g. oz.) supplies (l| oz.). which weighs g. (li weighs 35 g.
EGG AN AVERAGE EGG OF AN COMPOSITION COMPOSITION OF Water Albumen Fats Weight Weight Water Albumen Fats Shell 7 g. Shell g. 45g. White g. 30 35 4.5 e. Og. 0 g. white 35 g. 30 g. g. 29 9 Yolk g. 18 Yolk 9 g. 2'9 g. 5'7 g. l8 g. e. 57 e. Whole g. 39 g. 5'7 g. 7'49. Whole egg egg 60 60 g. 39 g. 57 e. 7-4 e.

lapwing, lapwing, plover ployer and and gull gull eggs eggs are are smaller. sm aller. All Ali these these are are of of a a similar composition except except for for duck duck and and goose goose eggs, eggs, which which similar composition are are more more oily. oily. Digestibility Digestibility of of eggs eggs - Soft-boiled Soft-boiled eggs, eggs, poached poached eggs, eggs, and and eggs eggs en en cocotte cocotte are are easily easily digested, digested, unless unless served served with with a a heavy heavy garnish garnish such such as/oie as foie gras, gras, trufles, truffies, mushrooms, mushrooms, etc. etc. The The same same applies appIies to to omelettes omelettes and and scramblod scrambled eggs, eggs, although although these, these, even ev en without without a a garnish, garnish, are are not not as as easily easily digested digested as as those those mentioned mentioned above. above. Fried Fried eggs eggs are are fairly fairly digestible digestible if if they they are are not not over over browned browned in in the the butter butter or or fat fat in in which which they they are are cooked. cooked. Hard-boiled Hard-boiled eggs eggs take take longer longer to to digest digest than than any any of of the the others. A hard-boiled egg egg cut cut into into very very small small fragments fragments is is A hard-boiled more more easily easily digested. digested. The The average average diet diet should should not not contain contain more more than than 2 2 or or 3 3 eggs weekly (in (in whatever whatever form form they they are are served) served) and and these these should preferably preferably be be eaten eaten at at the the midday midday meal. meal. Freshness Freshness of of eggs eggs - A A fresh fresh egg egg is is heavy. heavy. When When shaken, shaken, it it should should feel feel well-filled. weU-filled. As As the the shell shell is is porous, porous, the the water water egg evaporates. which which encloses the the inner inner part part of of the the egg evaporates. An An egg egg gauge It is easy to day. It every day. loses a a tiny tiny fraction fraction in in weight weight every is easy to gauge cent the the freshness of of an an egg by by plunging plunging it it into into a a 12 12 per per cent If the egg is salted water solution of of salted water (kitchen (kitchen salt). salt). If the egg is very very a the water. once to fresh, at once fresh, it it falls falls at to the the bottom bottom of of the water. If If it it is is a This method on top. If it is few days old it it floats. Ifit is bad bad it it floats floats on top. This method and water and in water been preserved does not apply to eggs that that have have been preserved in or other liquid. limestone, or Iiquid. exclusion preserved by by the Eggs are are preserved eggs Preservation of eggs Preservation the exclusion - Eggs solution in a a proprietary dipped in can either be of air. air. They can of be dipped proprietary solution waterof waterin a a solution solution of submerged in or kept kept submerged stored, or and then stored, and Eggs not be used for for boiliog. boiling. Eggs glass. Preserved eggs be used eggs should should not glass. powder. preserved by desiccation into powder. can also be be preserved desiccation into
DE CUISSON DEs OEUFS oEUFS rrt6rsooEs DE culssoN DES DISHES. MTHODES BASIC EGG EGG DISHES. BASIC should be be used. used. fresh eggs eggs should only fresh In cooking cooking and and baking, baking, only ln (hard). OEUFS the eggs eggs into into a a DURS Plunge the oEUFs DURS Boiled eggs eggs (hard). BoUed - Plunge l0 minutes, minutes, according according pan of boiling 8 to to JO for 8 water and and boil boil for boiling water pan to size. to under a a cold cold in co or under water or stand in cold Drain the the eggs eggs and and stand Drain Id water recipe. to the the recipe. hot or cold, according according to or cold, use hot and use tap. Peel Peel them them and tap. into a (soft). OEUFS Plunge the the eggs eggs into a MoLLErs -- Plunge eggs (soft). oEUFs MOLLETS Boiled eggs BoUed minutes. Shell them pan of to 4 4 minutes. Shell them Boil for for 3 3 to water. Boil of boiIing boiling water. pan pan of hot salted salted of hot warn in in a a .(jan keep warm and keep under cold cold water water and under until serving. serving. water until water

Salts Calories Calories Salts

0.25 g. 0'25g. 0'25 g. 025g. 0'509. 050g.

l0 e. lOg. 63 g. e. 73g. 73g.

M. Alquier Alquier tables of of M. From the the tables From

of salted per cent solution plunge itinto solution ofsalted intoaa12 12percent To test test the the freshnessofan freshness of anegg, egg,plungeit To floats daysold old floats Anegg2 bottom;An water: A fallsat atonce onceto totbe the bottom; Afresb freshegg eggfalls water: egg 2 days ontop top floatson 2-week old oldegg eggfloats A2-week risesto tothe thesurface; surface;A midway; An Anegg4 egg 4daysold days oldrises midway;

33s 335

EGGS EGGS

Boiled Boiled eggs eggs and and garnished garnished eggs eggs en en cocotte cocolle ((Robert Carrier) Robert Carrier)

336 336

EGGS EGGS
Drain the t'he eggs eggs and and garnish garnish them, them, or serve with with sauce, sauce, Drain according to to the the recipe. recipe. Soft-boiled eggs eggs are are served served and according garnished garnished in in the the same same way way as poached poached eggs. Eggs en en cocottg cocotte, cassolettes cassolettes or or caissettes. caissettes. oEUFS OEUFS EN Eggs COCOTTE - This way way of of preparing preparing eggs is a combination of cocorrE and poached eggs d la la coque coque (see below) below) and poached eggs (see below). eggs Warrn small smali round round or or oval oval dishes, made made of of china, earthenWarm ware, metal, metal, or fireproof fireproof glass. glass. Butter the dishes, dishes, or coat ware, with a pur6e, pure, according according to the recipe. Use Use I 1 or 2 eggs eggs for with each dish. dish. each oyen, in a pan half-filled half-filled with water. Place the the dishes dishes in the oven, Place Leave for 6 to to 8 minutes, according according to the number of eggs Leave oven. when taking them from the oyen. in each dish. Salt the eggs when of the dishes. Place thern them on a flat fiat dish. Clean the outside of au naturel naturel or garnished. garnished. Serve az m COQUE Eggs d la coque @oited (boiled in their shells). OEUFS LA coQue oEUFs A Leave a a First method. Plunge Plunge the the egg egg into boiling boiling water. water. Leave First method. mediurn-sized egg for 3 minutes, a larger one, seconds 30 seconds one, 30 a larger medium-sized longer. Second method. method. Plunge the eggs eggs into boiling water. water. Boil 1 minute. minute. Remove from the the heat, heat, and the hot in the and leave in for I water for 3 3 minutes. water Third method. Coyer in a a saucecold water in Cover the eggs with cold from the the saucepan pan. Bring them to the boil boil and and remove from as soon as as the water is boiling. as pans, for Fourth method. for 3 special pans, in special the eggs, eggs, in Fourth method. Steam Steam the minutes. The times given above can be to taste. taste. be varied according to
(q.v.), on croustades (q.v.), on round croustades or round can also be served on tartlets tartiets or recipe chosen. chosen. Garnish Garnish in the recipe or as as shown in artichoke artichoke hearts, hearts, or a sui suitable and serve with a table sauce. Either simple or fluted fiuted moulds mou Ids can be used.

Omelette Omelette

Fried Fried egg egg and and bacon bacon

Fried 2 methods. methods. FRIrs -- There There are are 2 eggs. OEUFS oEUFS FRITS Fried eggs. Fried. plenty of fat, oil, or butter. butter. oil, or of fat, at a a time time in in plenty Fried. Cook Cook 1 I egg egg at The yolk. should coyer cover the the yolk. The white white should Sauted. pan with on fat, oil, oil, or or butter, butter, on with fat, a frying frying pan Sautied. Cook Cook in in a 1 plate. onto a a dish dish or or plate. I side and tum turn onto side or or both, both, and Heat pan. Use the egg egg let the enough to to let frying pan. Use enough Heat oil oil in a smaU small frying in a fioat. with salt. salt.Siide Slide season with and season into a a cup cup and float. Break Break the the egg egg into it yolk with with aa white round round the the yolk and draw draw the the white it into into the the hot hot oil oil and wood en spoon seal it. it. wooden spoon to to seal Drain garnish as for each each recipe. recipe. shown for as shown Drain the the eggs eggs and and garnish Eggs to the the dish belongs belongs to uourEs -- This This dish in a a mould. ortrFs MOULS mould. OEUFS Eggs in grande prepared at home. grande cuisine, at home. easily be be prepared cuisine, but but can can easily Coat Add with butter. butter. Add dariole moulds moulds with insides of of dariole the insides Coat the chopped recipe. parsley, ham, to the the recipe. ham, truffies, truffies, etc. etc. according according to chopped parsley, Ids. Break lined mou moulds. Break the the eggs eggs into into the the lined Cook in the the Leave in for 88 to 12 minutes. minutes. Leave to 12 in aa bain-marie bain-marie for Cook in moulds out. taking out. minutes before before taking for aa few few minutes moulds for Place Moulded eggs eggs toasted bread. bread. Moulded or toasted of fried fried or on slices slices of Place on 337 337

prepare an than an omelette omelette than to prepare difficult to It is is less less difficult Omelette Omelette -- lt points: following points: the foIlowing observe the For success, success, observe it it seems. seems. For high. be very very high. The The fiame flame must must be pan, in else nothing else in which which nothing frying pan, clean frying Use obsolutely cIean Use an an obsolutely is cooked. is ever ever cooked. moment. last moment. only at at the the last lightly and and only Beat the eggs eggs lightly Beat the fat. butter or or fat. much butter Do Do not not use use too too much yourself. in yourself. Have Have confidence confidence in quantities. people use For the following following quantities. use the 4 people For 4 ground freshly ground salt and and freshly with salt Lightly Season with beat 8 8 eggs. eggs. Season Lightly beat pepper. pepper. pan frying pan in the (ll oz., butter in the frying g. (11o2.,3 tablespoons) butter Heat 3 tablespoons) Heat 35 35 g. Mix with fork. with aa fork. a high high fiame. flame. Mix over a and Cook over add the the eggs. eggs. Cook and add Fold evenly cooked. cooked. Fold pan so is evenly the omelette omelette is Shake so that that the Shake the the pan quick movement, movement, I quick down with with 1 it upside down it upside and tum tum it it over over once once and onto dish. warmed dish. onto a a warmed the sauce from from the serve with with aa sauce and serve Garnish the omelette omelette and Garnish the section. omelette this section. recipes in in this omelette recipes pocufs -- FiIl pan with with salted salted Fill aa pan Poached eggs. OEUFS oEUFs POCHS Pooched eggs. (scant quart, quart, generous generous litre (scant water salt to to 1I litre lj teaspoons teaspoons salt water -- It boil. Bring to to the theboil. vinegar. Bring quart) quart) water. Add 1I tablespoon tablespoon vinegar. water. Add itis is thespot spot where where it on the Break liquid exactly exactly on into the the liquid the eggs eggs into Break the gently for bubbling. for 33minutes. minutes. Simmer gently bubbling. Simmer each skimmer. Put Puteach Drain withaaskimmer. time, with oneat ataa time, Drain the the eggs, eggs, one removing theeggs eggs by byremoving one Trim the fresh water. water. Trim into fresh separatelyinto one separately (with fresh hardly be necessary). the be necessary). thisshould should hardly fresh eggs eggsthis the blisters blisters (with are until they they are Leave hot, salted salted water water until dish of of hot, thern in in aadish Leave them served. served. or toasted toasted fried or Drain themon onfried theeggs. eggs.Place Place them and dry dry the Drain and slices can also also be be recipe. They Theycan to the therecipe. bread,according according to slicesof of bread, rice,semolina, semolina, served bedof ofrice, onaabed oron intartlets, tartlets,or croustades,in served on on croustades, potatoes, potatoes, artichoke hearts, etc. etc. artichoke hearts, Garnish tothe therecipe recipe according to sauceaccording cover with withaasauce and coyer Garnishand chosen. chosen. Scrambled scrambled snou[r6s - - WeIl-made Well-made scrambled eggs. OEUFS oEUFs BROUILLS Scrambled eggs. eggs care- cookod with withcare should be becooked theyshould delicious, but but they aredelicious, eggsare garnishedin they in canbe begarnished Theycan and creamy. creamy.They smooth and theymust must be besmooth various various ways. ways. people. First quantities for for44people. thefollowing following quantities Firstmethod. Usethe method. Use Me1t cup) butter panwith fryingpan withaa (2oz., smallfrying g.(2 inaasmaII butterin Melt50 oz., i.up) 50g. heavy beat eggsand andbeat Break88eggs smallsaucepan. saucepan. Break oraasmall heavybottom, bottom, or

EGGS EGGS
together lightly, lightly, as as for for an an omelette. omelette. Scason Season them them and and add add together to the the butter pan. Cook butter in in the the pan. over a Cook over a low low heat, heat, stirring stirring to constantly with with a wooden a wood constantly en spoon. When the the eggs are are cooked, remove them from the stove When g. (2 oz., and add add 50 50 g. cup) butter, pieces. Mx oz., ibutter, eut cut into into small small pieces. Mix f cup) and well and and keep keep hot hot in in a a bain-marie bain-marie until until serving. serving. well Garnish according according to to the the recipe recipe chosen. chosen. Garnish Second method. method. Use Use Cla double double saucepan. saucepan. Half-till Half-fill the the Second pan with bottom pan with warm wann water. water. Cook Cook eggs eggs and and buller butter in in the the hottom pan, stirring smaller pan, stirring with a wooden wooden spoon. with a spoon. smaller When the the eggs eggs are are cooked, cooked, add little more add a a tiule more buller, butter, eut cut When pieces. into small small pieces. into 2 or or 3 3 tab!espoons tablespoons fresh fresh cream cream can can be be added added to to 2 scrambled eggs eggs after after they are are cooked. cooked. scrambled They can can be be served served in small small or (q.v.) or large large crous/ades croustades (q.v.) They puff pastry; in made from from puff (q.v.) made tn timbales timbales (q.v.) made from plain from plain made pastry; in in cassolettes (q.v.); in in hollowed-out hollowed-out vegelables; vegetables; or or pie dishes. in metal metal or or china china pie pulr -- For Eggs sur plat, or le plat, sur Je or shirred shirred eggs. eggs. OEUFS oEUFs SUR srJR LE LE PLAT Eggs this simple simple way way of of cooking eggs special dshes dishes are are used, used, this which are are eitber either for for individual portions (J (l or or 2 eggs) eggs) or or for which cooking severa! several al at once. once. cooking For Iwo two eggs eggs coat coat the the dish dish with with t tablespoon butter. butter. Heat Heat For I tab!espoon on the the stove. stove. Break Break the the eggs into into the pour melted the dish dish and and pour melted on butter on on the the yolks. Cook in the the oven oven for for as as long long as as is is Iiked liked butter and when when ready, sprinkle sprinkle with with fine fine salt. salt. and Garnish or or cover cover with with a a sauce sauce according according 10 to the the instrucGarnish given alphabetically tions given alphabetically below. below. tions Ambassadrice eggs 1 (soft-boiled or I (soft-boiled poached), OEUFS or poached). oEUFs croustades puff pastry pastry and with putf and 0 uSlades (q.v.) with - Make cr garnish with (q.v.) of truffies and with a a salpicon (q.v.) gras, blended andfoie blended garnish foie gras, with concentrated Demi-glace sauce (se SA sauce (see SAUCE) flavoured with UCE) flavoured with Madeira. Madeira. Put Put the the caoked cooked eggs eggs on on the the croustades croustades and and with mask them (see SA them with with Suprme Suprme sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Garnish with with mask UCE). Garnish asparagus tips blended blended with with butter. butter. (en cocotte). Ambassadrice eggs n tr (en cocotte). OEUFS orurs AMBASSADRICE AMBAssADRTcE -Line the gras pure the cocolles (see PURE) cocottes with Foie Foie gras purie (see PUREE) and and Line sprinkle with with chopped choppod truffies. trufres. Break Break the the eggs eggs into into the the lined lined sprinkle dishes and cook in and cook in a a bain-marie. bain-marre. When When the the eggs eggs are are cooked, cooked, dishes garnish with take them them out, out, garnish with asparagus tips, and and surround surround take the yolk with with Suprme (see SAUCE) 10 SuprAme sauce sauce (sec to which which sherry sherry the
AMBAssADRrcr AMDASSADRICE

has been added. added. has Ambassadrice eggs

Cook the eggs rur Ie plat in the usual way. When ready,
garnish with a salpicon of foie gras, truffies, and asparagus tips. Surround with Suprme sauce (se SAUCE) with sherry added. (soft-boiled or Amdlie eggs 1 I (soft-boiled or poached). OEUFS oErrFs AML ltrafrre -Arrange the eggs on puff pastry croustades garnished with a a (q.v.) of vegetables fine mirepox mirepolx (q.v.) vegetables (cooked in in butter butter unti! until fine they are are soft) soft) and and with with Madeira Madeira wine pan wine poured into into the the pan they the vegetables have been taken taken out. out. after the Mask the eggs eggs with a (se SAUCE). a Cream sauce (see Crearn sauce SAUCE). Garnish Garnish in cream. with morels cooked n (srr le Am6lie eggs n tr (sur le plat). OEUFS l.rr,rfrn onurs AML Cook the the eggs Amlie - Cook in ovenproof ovenproof dishes dishes on on a a mirepoix mirepoix of of vegetables vegetables with in Madeira. Garnish with morels cooked cooked in cream. Madeira. (frid). OEUFS Eggs n l'am6ricaine I (fried). oEr.rFs A L'AMRICAINE r.'lufnrcArNE -Eggs l'amricaine 1 Fry the the eggs in butter. Gamish Garnish with 2 slices slices grilled or fried grilled tomato. bacon and j grilled tomato. Eggs i l'am6ricaine l'lunp~';'''lIi....,, tr Il (soft-boiled (wft-boiled or or poached). OEUFS onurs A r'lqufnrcalxr - Arrange the cooked eggs on fried eggs on fried bread or croustades. Garnish with pieces of Lobster (or spiny lobster) h I'amdricaine (see LOBSTER). Pour Amiricaine (see Amricaine sauce (see SAUCE) over the eggs. (urr le platf oEUFs Eggs t Pam6ricaine Itr (sur OEUFS A .. r'AlafnrcarNs L'AM:RICAINE (or sprny eggs onto 2 pieces of Lobster Lobsler (or spiny lobster) lobsler) h - Break 2 eg$ l'amiricaine l'amricaine (see LOBSTER) AT~C'-"'Ln in a buttered ovenproof ovenproof dish. Bake wth Amdricaine in the the oven. oven. Surround Surround with Amhcaine sauce sauce (see (see Bake in

III (sr le le plat).

oBuFs AMBAssADRTcE

EGG DISHES. rrs DrvERs APPRTS eppnfrs D'oEUFs. LES DlVERS D'OEUFS. EGG D1SHES. Eggs i l'africaine I'africaine (soft-boiled or poached). OEUFS orurs A Eggs L'AFRIcATNE Arrange the cooked eggs in a circle on a layer L'AFRICA1NE- Arrange (q.v.). of couscous couscous (q.v.). of Peel and and dce dice aubergines, oil and saut6 them and add add to the Peel aubergines, saut them in in oil ring. ring. Peel and d dice swee! sweet peppers and cook cook in a consomm. consomm6. Peel and peppers and in a (sen SAUCE), Make Tomato sauce sauce (see peppers and SAUCE), add add the and Make a a Tomato the peppers pour over the it over the eggs. eggs. pour it Bggs i l'agenaise Eggs il l'agellsise (sur le le plat). plat). orurs OEUFS A A r'^lceN.qJss L'AGENAISE Saut6 chopped Saut chopped onions onions in goose goose fat. fat. When When cooked, cooked, add add garlic garlic and of and chopped chopped parsley. parsley. Cook Cook the the eggs eggs ru," sur le le plat plat on on a a bed bed of this this onion onion mixture. mixture. Garnish sautEed in Garnish with with peeled, peeled, diced diced aubergines, aubergines, sauted in goose goose fat. fat. Aladdin AJaddin eggs I (sur le le ptat). plat). onurs OEUFS ALADTN ALADIN ~ Bake Bake the eggs in ln ovenproof OV(!nr:lfOI:l1 dishes on on a a foundation foundation of of onions onions saut6ed in butter butter until until soft. soft. Garnish Swee/ peppers peppers d l'orientale l'orien/ale (see (see PEPPERS) Garnish with with Sweet and and saffron-flavoured saffron-flavoured Risotto Risotto (see RICE). RICE). Surround Surround with with a a border border of of Tomato Tomalo sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). Aladdin Aladdin eg$ tr Il (soft-boiled (soft-boiled or or poached). l'U~I\;'''<::U)' oErrFS OEUFS ALADTN ALADIN Arrange Arrange the cooked cooked eggs eggs in in a a circle on on a a layer layer of of saffronsaffronflavoured Risotto (see flavoured Risollo (see RICE). RICE). Garnish Garnish with with Sweet Swee/ peppers peppers d I'orientale l'orienlale (see (sec PEPPERS) PEPPERS) and and mask mask the the eggs with with Tomato Tomato sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) spiced spiced pinch with with a a pinch of cayenne. Eggs Eggs A I'alsacienne l'alsacienne I 1 (fried). oEUFs A r',tlslcrENNE Arrange Arrange the the fried fried eggs eggs on On a a layer of of braised braised sauerkraut, sauerkraul, alternating them them with with slices slices of of ham. ham. Surround Surround with with a a border border (see of Demi-glace 1Je,ml-.flla,~e sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SA UCE). Eggs Eggs i I'alsacienne II Il (soft-boiled or or poached). orurs OEUFS A L'ALSAcTENNE L'ALSACIENNE - Arrange Arrange the cooked eooked eggs eggs in a a dish on on a a layer layer of of braised braised sauerkraut. sauerkraut. Garnish Garnish with wilh thin Ihin slices sJices of of cooked cooked ham. ham. Cover Cover with wlth Demi-glace sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Eggs ila I'alsacienne ,'alsacienne III (srr le plat). oEUFs OEUFS A r',trslctnNNE L'ALSACIENNECook the eggs eggs ral sur le le plat piaf in goose go ose fat. Garnish Garnish with with I1tabletablespoon spoon braised braised sauerkraut sauerkraut and and a a slice slice of of ham. ham. Surround Surround with with a a border border of of Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SA UCE).
338 338

sAUCE). SAUCE). Anchovy Anchory eggs eggs 1 (soft-boiled (soft-boiled or or poached). poached). onurs OEUFS lux AUX ANcHoIs ANCHOIS - Arrange Arrange the the cooked eggs on bread fried fried in butter butter on both sides, or on puffpastry croustades. puff Mask Mask with Anchovy Anchovy Sauce (see SAUCE). SA UCE). Garnish Garnish each each egg egg with with a desalted desalted anchovy fillet. Anchovy Anchovy eggs eggs tr Il (mr (sur le plat). plat). orurs OEUFS Ar.x AUX ANcHors ANCHOIS - Desalt Desalt and and dice I 1 anchovy per per egg. Put PUI them Ihem into into a buttered buUered ovenovenproof dish and break break the eggs onto onlO them. Cook Cook in in the the oven oven and decorate decorate with with more more anchovy fillets. fillels. Anchory Al1chovy eggs eggs Itr m (frid). (fried). oEr.rFs OEUFS Arrx AUX ANcHorsANCHOIS - Fry Fry the the eggs eggs in oil. Arrange Arrange each each one one on an oval piece piece of of bread, bread, fried in butter butter on on both both sides. sides. Garnish Garnish with with anchovy ancbovy fillets, tillets, arranged criss-cross. criss-cross. Sprinkle with with Norette Noiselle butter buller (see (see BUTTER,

L'ANcTENNE L'ANCIENNE -

Eggs Eggs i l'ancienne l'ancienne I 1 (soft-boiled (soft-boiled or or poached). poached). oBurs OEUFS A A Arrange the the cooked cooked eggs eggs on 00 a a mound mound of of rice, ri ce, - Arrange cooked cooked in in meat meat stock. stock. Cover Coyer with with Veloute Veloute saucd sauc (see (see SAUCE). julienne (q.v.) of of truffiesblended truffles blended SA U CE). Put Put Il teaspoonof teaspoon ofjulimre with with thick thick Madeira Madeira sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) between the the eggs. Eggs Eggs i I'ancienne l'ancienne tr n (cold). (cold). oEr-rFs OEUFS A r'.lNcreNxs L'ANCIENNE- Mask soft-boiled soft-hoiled eggs eggs or or poached poached eggs cggs with with White White chaud-froid chaud-froid sauce (sec SAUCE) SAUCE) to to which which Madeira Madeira has has been becn added. added. sauce (see Decorate Decorate with wilh truffies truffles and and glaze glaze with with jelly. jelly. Serve Serve in in a a dish dish lined lined with with a a layer layer of of chicken chcken jelly. jelly. Separate Separate the the eggs eggs with with slices slices of of pickled pickled tongue tongue cut eut into into flutd fluted half-circles. half-circles. Cover Cover with with thin thin jelly. jelly. Add Add chopped chopped jelly jeUy

Compound Compound butters). bUllers).

EGGS EGGS
to to the the middle middle of ofthe the dish. dish. Keep Keep cold cold until until serving' serving. Eggp i l'andalouse le plat). plat). onurs OEUFS A t'itNpAtousn L'ANDALOUSEl'andalouse I1(srr le the eggs eggs rrr sur le le plat in in oil oil in in a a dish dish which which has has been been Cook the rubbed rubbed with with garlic. garlic. Peel and and dice dice sweet sweet peppers peppers and and cook cook them in in oil. oil. Add Add them them to to Tomato Tomato fondue fondue (see (see FONDUE) FONDUE) them and garnish the the eggs eggs with with the the mixture. mixture. and I'andalouse l'andalouse tr II (frid). (fTied). oEUFs OEUFS A t'lNoAl-ousn L'ANDALOUSE - Fry Fry Eggs n the eggs eggs in in oil. oil. Arrange Arrange alternately alternately with with grilled grilled tomatotomatothe halves in in the the shape shape of of a a crown. crown. halves Garnish with with sweet sweet peppers peppers and and onion onion rings rings fried fried in in oil. oil. Garnish l'anglaise I1(srr (sur le le plat). orurs OEUFS A t'enctusr L'ANGLAISE - Break Break Eggs i I'anglaise Eggs 2 eggs eggs over over a a slice slice of of grilled bacon bacon in in a a buttered buttered ovenproof ovenproof 2 dish. Cook Cook in in the the oven. oven. dish. tr (fried). oEUFs l'''' ... I<;-ll OEUFS A L'lt'tcLllsn L'ANGLAISE - Fry Fry the the Eggs il l'anglaise eggs butter. Cut them them with a a round round biscuit-cutter, biscuit-cutter, leaving leaving eggsin white round onlya thin rim rim of ofwrute round the the yolk. yolk. Arrange Arrange on on rounds rounds a thin only of bread, bread, toasted, toasted, or or fried fried in in butter. butter. of Surround with with veal veal stock, or or serve serve the the stock stock separately' separately. Surround Eggs i I'antiboise. l'antiboise. oEUFs OEUFS A L'.qsrlnotsn L'ANTIBOISE - Roll Roll 4 4 tableEggs in flour, ftour, and and saut6 saut in in butter. butter. spoons (* cup) nonats (q.v.) in are brown, brown, add I 1 tablespoon tablespoon diced diced Gruydre Gruyre When they are
cheese and a little garlic. cheese Break 4 eggs eggs into ioto the same same pan and cook them them in the oven. Break

Mask the ARGENTEUIL Argenteuil Argenteuil eggs eggs IV IV (cold). (cold). oEUFs OEUFS ARGENTEUIL - Mask the sauce (see soft-doiled soft-boiled or or poached poached eggs eggs with with a a Chaud-froid Chaud-froid sauce (see tips and glaze SAUCE). SAUCE). Decbrate Decorate with with green green asparagus asparagus tips and glaze jelly. with aspic with with Make atips seasoned seasoned with a salad of of white white asparagus tips on a dish with jellied Mayonnaise (see (see SAUCE). Arrange on a dish with jellied Mayonnaise and eggs eggs and chopped chopped aspic aspic in in the the middle. middle. -Armenonville poached)' oEUFs, OEUFS Armenonville eggs (soft-boiled (soft-boiled or or on oval pieces of eggs cooked the Arrange ARMENoNvILLc of ARMENONVILLE the cooked Mask with toast toast made made from from unsweetened unsweetened brioche dough.

with chopped dish' Sprinkle with Turn upside down onto a hot dish.
parsley. parsley.

oruns A or poached). Eggs n I'anversoise l'anversoise 1 (soft-boiled or poached). OEUFS Eggs fried in in on bread bread fried eggs on cooked eggs the cooked L'ANVERSOISE - Serve Serve the L'Al.rvERsoIsE cooked in in shoots cooked hop shoots with hop butter on both sides. Garnish with sides. Garnish on both butter (see sauce (see Suprdme sauce or Suprme sauce or Cream butter. Mask Mask with am sauce with Cre butter.
SAUCE). sAUCE). A L'ANVERSOISE L'^lNvnnsotsn -ptat). OEUFS oEUFs Eggs tr (sur le plat). I'anversoise II i l'anversoise shoots hop shoots I tablespoon tablespoon hop with 1 eggs with Garnish the cooked cooked eggs Garnish the of a border border of with a Surround with cooked cream. Surround or cream. in butter butter or cooked in boiling cream. APIcrus -poached). OEUFS oELrFs APICIUS (soft-boiled or or poached). eggs (soft-boiled Apicius eggs with grilled mushrooms. Garnish with mushrooms. Garnish Serve on grilled cooked eggs on the cooked Serve the (see CRAYFISH). Mask Mask Nantua (see Crayfish it la la Nantua ragoftt tail ragot Crayfish tail (see SAUCE). Put I tabletablethe sauce (see Normande sauce with Normande the eggs eggs with spoon truffies cooked in butter, made from from truffles a salpicon, salpicora, made of a spoon of between each each egg. egg. ARcHIDUc poached). OEUFS oEUFs ARCHIDUC (soft-boiled or or poached). Archduke I (soft-boiled eggp 1 Archituke eggs on both both in butter butter on fried in on bread bread fried eggs on cooked eggs the cooked Arrange the - Arrange with Suprme SuprAme Coat with sides, of puff pastry. Coat or on on croustades croustades of sides, or onion chopped onion and chopped (see SAUCE) sauce to which paprika and SAUCE) to sauce (see diced with diced Garnish with cooked been added. Garnish have been in butter butter have cooked in truffies in butter. butter. saut6od in truffies sauted the Break the (sur le ARcHIDUc -- Break Archduke le plat). OEUFS onurs ARCHIDUC tr (sur eggs II ArcHuke eggs which onions which with chopped onions eggs into an ovenproof dish lined with with paprika' and seasoned Wit:l in butter butter and hive been been softened in in truffies cooked in diced truffies Cook with diced and garnish with in the the oven oven and Cook in (seeSAUCE) seasoned SAUCE) seasoned butter. sauce (see with Supr4me sauce butter. Surround Surround with with paprika. with paprika. ARGENoEUFs ARGENpoachcl).OEUFS Argenteuil (soft-boiled or or poached). eg5 1I (soft-boiled Argentanil eggs friedin in piecesof bread fried TEUIL - Arrange of bread eggs on on pieces cooked eggs thecooked Arrange the reulfbutter pastry croustades. puffpastry croustadesor on onpuff sides, or on both both sides, butter on (see PUREE), to to purie (see Mask asparagus pure Whiteasparagus with White Mask with the in the added in which (seeSAUCE) hasbeen been added SAUCE) has Velouti sauce sauce (see which Velout tips asparagustips proportion white asparagus withwhite Garnish with to l,l. Garnish proportion of of 33 to cooked inbutter. butter. cooked in Break Argenteuil ARGENTEUIL - -Break (srrle plat). OEUFS onursARGENTEUIL leplat). tr(sur eggF II Argentanil eggs tablespoon the with 1I tablespoon dishwith ovenproof dish butteredovenproof intoaabuttered the eggs eggsinto asparagus fresh whiteasparagus with white Garnishwith oven.Garnish inthe theoven. Cookin freshcream. cream. Cook tips butter. cookedin inbutter. tipscooked Irine Argenteuil (srrle ptat).OEUFS ARGENTEUIL - - Line orurs ARGENTEUIL leplat). Itr(sur eggsID Argenteuil eggs (seePURE). purte(see PUREE). an Whiteasparagus asparagus pure withWhite dishwith anovenproof ovlnproof dish Break oven. inthe theoven. Cook in it.Cook intoil. the eggsinto Breakthe butter. inbutter. cooked in tipscooked Garnish with green asparagus tips (seSAUCE). SAUCE). sauce(see Surround with Velouti sauce ot Cream sauce
339 339

added' Velouti Velout sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) to to which which sherry sherry has been asparagus Garnish Garnish with with small small carrots carrots cooked cooked in in cream, cream, and and asparagus tips saut6ed sauted with with butter. butter. poached). oEUFs AUBER Stuff Auber eggs eggs I 1 (soft-boiled (soft-boiled or or "--'--'--r OEUFS AUBER - Stuff FORCEwith Chicken forcemeal (see halved halved tomatoes tomatoes with (see FORCEon cooked egg MEAT) MEA T) mixed mixed with with chopped chopped truffies. Put Put 1 1 cooked egg on each each half. half. flavoured (se SAUCE) SAUCE) flavoured Mask Mask the the eggs eggs with with Velouti Velout sauce sauce (see of truffies truffies a iulienne with a with with tomato tomato paste paste and and finished finished with julienne of sherry. in cooked cooked in sherry. eggs with a the eggs Mask the AUBER (cold). OEUFS onurs AUBER Auber - Mask Auber eggs eggs tr II (cold). with a Tomato which Tomato (see SAUCE) to which SAUCE) ta sauce (see White chaud-froid White chaudlroid sauce with Decorate added' (see ESSENCE) been added. Decorate with ESSENCE) has essence has been essence (see jellY. glaze with with jelly. and glaze truffies truffies and of breast of diced breast with diced fill with and fill tomatoes and some tomatoes out sorne Hollow out Hollow with made with mayonnaise made with mayonnaise bound with trufres bound and truffies chicken and chicken tomato' each tomato. egg on on each or poached egg I soft-boiled soft-boiled or gelatine. Put Put 1 gelatine. jelly. with jelly, and garnish with a crown, crown, and in a Arrange in Arrange AUBERAlrx AUBERplat). OEUFS oEUFS AUX le plat). aubergines I (2r le with aubergines Eggs with Eggs aubergines diced aubergines with diced dish with ovenproof dish the ovenproof Line the cINns -- Line GINES and the aubergines, aubergines' and onto the eggs onto the eggs Break the butter. Break in butter. saut6ed in sauted plat. le plat. sar le for eggs sur way for usual way in the the usual cook in cook AUx AUBERGINES AUBERGINES oEUFs AUX tr (frid). OEUFS with aubergines II Eggs with in oil. Arrange thern in a ring alternating.with eggs in Fryihe eggs Fry with and fried in oil, or grilled' lengthwise and cut lengthwise of aubergine, au-bergine, eut sliies of slices fried parsleY. with fried Garnish with Garnish poached)' (soft-boiled or or poached). sicilienne (soft-boiled la sicilienne with aubergines I la Eggs with Eggs aubergines the aubergines cut the A LA LA SICILIENNE SICILIENNE -- Cut AUBERGINES Ar-Ix AUBERGINES oEUFS AUX OEUFS leave to to and leave pulp. Salt them and Salt them the pulp. Score the half in ha in If lengthwise. Score oil. in ail. Fry in for I hour. Fry sweat for sweat the dry the and dry skins and the skins tearing the pulp without without tearing the pulp Remove the Remove Mornay of Mornay volume of its volume twice its with twice Mix it it with stove. Mix pulp on on the the stave. pulp the aubergines aubergineswith of the bottoms of the bottoms (seeSAUCE). Coat Coat the iauie (see sauce with half' each half. poached egg to toeach pur6e. Add I poached Add 1 of this pure. I tablespoon tablespoon of 1 the eggs eggs gratin dish cover the dish and cover buttered gratin in aa buttered thern in Arrange them Arrange been hasbeen cream bas fresh cream which fresh to which with the the remaining pur6e, to with oven. hot oven. inaahot Brown in cheese. Brown Sprinkle with grated cheese. added.Sprinkle added. buttered Lineaabuttered AUGIER - - Line orurs AUGIER eggs (sur le plat). OEUFS Augiei eggs chervil. and chopped chervil. distr wittr aa pur6e made of sweetbreads and dish with aa the yolkswith Surround the the pur6e. Surround onto the the eggs eggs onto Break the Break oven. theoven. Bake inthe cream.Bake fresh cream. ringof offresh ring AL'AURORE t'luRonr - poached).OEUFS oEUFs (soft-boiledor orpoached). eggs1I(soft-boiled Aurora eggs Aurora inbutter butter friedin piecesof breadfried ofbread onpieces eggson cooked eggs thecooked Arrange the Arrange with Maskthem them with pastrycruustades. puff pastry croustades.Mask onpuff oron sides,or bothsides, onboth on hardwithchopped chopped hardSprinklewith SAUCE). Sprinkle sauce (seeSAUCE). Aurora sauce Aurora (seo SAUCE)' sauce(see Tomatosauce withTomato Surroundwith egg yolks.Surround boiledegg boiled SAUCE). t'AURonE otrnAL'A onursDUR (strfre{ hard-boiled). OEUFS tr(stuffed, eggsII Auroraeggs Aurora URORE the Removethe eggs lengthwise. Remove hard-boiledeggs thehard-boiled Cutthe FARcIs - - Cut FARCIS of weightof yolks withan anequal equalweight theyolks ofthe thirdsof yolks.Mix Mix two twothirds yolks. and Seasonand butter.Season (seeSAUCE) andbutter. SAUCE)and sauce(see nethomel sauce ihick Bchamel thick heaping mixture, heaping thismixture, withthis eggswith theeggs Stuffthe herbs.Stuff chopped herbs. addchopped add dome. intoaadome. ititinto the eggs on a gratin dish masked with Mornay Arrangethe Arrange (sie SAUCE). Sprinkle them with grated cheese and sauce(see sauce from Removefrom oven.Remove hotoven. ina ahot pouron butter. Brownin meltedbutter. onmelted pour hard-boiled choppedhard-boiled remainingchopped theremaining withthe sprinklewith ouett, th"aven, the sprinkle (see SAUCE). sauce Tomatosauce withTomato yolks, iurroundwith andsurround yolks, (see SAUCE). - and oEUFsA poached).OEUFS (soft-boiledor orpoached). I'auvergnate (soft-boiled Eggs i l'auvergnate Eggs

EGGS

EGGS
ESgs tla labarnaise (soft-boiledor b6arnaise(soft-boiled poached).OEUFS orpoached). orursALA u Eggs Makesmall smalloval ovalcakes cakesusing usingDuchess Duchesspotato potato - Make (seePOT mixture(see POTATOES). Bakein inthe theoven ovenuntil golden untilgolden A TOES). Bake mixture brownand andarrange arrange1Icooked cookedegg eggon oneach each one.Coat Coaithem them brown one. withconcentrated concentratedveal gravyto vealgravy towhich whichbutter butterhas hasbeen been with added.Serve Servewith withBarnaise Biarnaisesauce (see sauce(see SAUCE). added. SA UCE). Eggs i la laBeauharnais Beauhamais (soft-boiled (soft-boiledor poached).OEUFS orpoached). onwsALA u Eggs BEAUHARNATS - -Cook Cookartichoke artichoke hearts heartsin inbutter butterand garnish andgarnish BEAUHARNAIS withBeauharnais Beauharnaissauce (seeSAUCE). sauce(see SAUCE). Arrange Arrange 1Iegg eggon oneach. each. with Coat with with reduced reducedDemi-glace Demi-glace(see (seeSAUCE), SAUCE),-io which Coat to which butterhas has been beenadded. added. butter Eggs i la laBeaumont Beaumont (poached). (poached).OEUFS oEUFs ALA r,c,BEAUMONT snA,r.rMoNrFor Eggs - For l0 eggs eggs use use_10 l0oval ovalcroustades croustadesmade made from fromleft left-over puff 10 -over puff j pastry, (scantpint, and litre litre (scant pint,2tcups) thin Bchamel Bichamel sauce siuce pastry, and cups) thin (seeSA SAUCE). (see UCE). 'Cook and and trim trim 33 large large artichoke artichoke hearts. hearts. Cut Cut them them into into 'Cook small squares squares and and stew stew them gently in them gently inbutter. butter. Sieve Sieve one one third third small of the the stewed stewed artichoke artichoke hearts. hearts. Mix Mix the pur6ewith the pure with the the of Bichamel sauce. sauce. Add Add 50 (2 oz., 50g. oz., i* cup) butter. burter. Bchamel E.(2 "up) tips (6 oz.) Cook 175 175 g. g. (6 green asparagus oz.) green asparagus tips in in salt salt water. water. Cook (In order order to have the to have the correct correct weight weight of ofasparagus tips, 400 g. 400 g. (In asparagus tips, (14 oz.) asparagus asparagus will will be be required.) required.) Drain, Drain, but butdo do not not rinse rinse (14 oz.) in cold cold water. water. Season Season with with salt, pepper and salt, pepper grated nutmeg. and grated nutmeg. in Dress with with butter. butter. Mix Mix in in the the rest rest of of the the artichoke artichoke hearts. hearts. Dress 'Poach the the eggs eggs which which should should be be absolutely absolutely fresh. fresh. Drain Drain 'Poach them and and plunge plunge into into lukewarm lukewarm water. water. Then Then drain drain again again and and them dry on on a a c1oth. cloth. Trim Trim the the eggs eggs and and arrange arrange them them in in a a circle lrcle on on dry individual croustades. croustades. Cover Cover them them with with the the sauce sauce and put and put individual some chervil chervil on on each each egg. egg. Garnish Garnish with with the the artichokes artichokes and and sorne asparagus tips tips arranged arranged in in the the centre centre of of the (phil6as the circle.' circle.' (Philas asparagus Gilbert.) Gilbert.) EgS i la la bchamel. bechamel. OEUFS oEUFs A LA m BCHAMEL nfcnllarr -- See See Eggs with Eggs (below). cream sauce sauce (below). cream BelleH6line eggs (soft-boiled or eggs (soft-boiled or poached). OEUFS oEUFs BELLEBELLE_ Belle-Hlne u6riilrr Make oval oval croquettes croquettes from frornleft-over HLNE left-over poultry meat. - Make Dip put 1 in egg egg and and breadtrumbs breadOrumbs and and fry in butter. buttei. Put Dip them them in fry in I soft_-boiled egg on on each. each. Mask Mask the the eggs or poached poached egg soft-boiled or eggs with Colbert butters). Garnish Colbert butter butter (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, compound compound butters). Garnish with a ring of of Velout Velouti sauce with asparagus asparagus tips. tips. Surround Surround with a (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Eggs Eggs i la la bellevilloise bellevilloise (sur (sur le le plat). plat). oEUFs OEUFS A rn LA ssnrBELLEvLLorsE VILLOISE - Line Line an an ovenproof ovenproof dish dish with with chopped chopped onion onion softened softened in in butter. butter. Put Put the the eggs on the onions and garnish garnish with with 2 2 slices slices of of grilled grilled andouillette andouillette (q.u.). (q.v.). Bake Bake thJm them and and when when cooked cooked surround surround the the eggs eggs with with a ribbon ribbon of of Lyonnaise Lyonnaise sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Eggs Eggs n h la b6n6dictine bndictine (soft-boiled (soft-boUed or or poached). poached). orurs OEUFS A re LA sfN6orcrrNE BNDICTINE - Arrange Arrange the the cooked cooked eggs eggs on on a a mixture mixture of of salt salt cod cod pounded pounded with with garlic, garlic, oil, oil, and and cream, cream, and and mixed mixed with with chopped chopped trufles. truffies. Mask Mask with with Cream Cream sauce sauce (ser, (see SAUCE). SAUCE). B6ranger Branger eggs eggs (soft-boiled (soft-boUed or or poached). poached). oEUFs OEUFS s6RlNcm BRANGER _ Line Line a a flan flan case, case, b_aked baked blind, blind, with with a a layer layer of of thick thick Onion Onion soubise (see PUREE). PURE). Put Put the the cooked cooked Lggs eggs oo on this this layer layer soubise (see and and mask mask them them with with Mornay Mornay sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Sprinkle Sprinkle grated grated cheese cheese over over the the pie pie and and pour pour melted melted buttei butter over. over. Brown Brown in in the the oven. oven. Bdrangire Brangre eggs eggs (en (en cocotte). cocotte). oEUFs OEUFS sfnlNciRE BRANGRE - Line Line buttered buttered cocottes cocottes with with a a thin thin layer layer of offorcemeat forcemeat made made from from poultry poultry and and truffes. truffies. Break Break the the eggs eggs into into the the cocottes cocottes and and cook cook in in the the usual usual way. way. When When the the eggs eggs are are cooked, cooked, garnish garnish with with I1tablespoon tablespoon of ofragofit ragot made made from from cocks, cocks' combs combs and and kidneys, kidneys,blended blended with with Suprme Suprmesauce sauce(see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Bu-*y Bercyeggs eggs(*rr (surle leplat). plat).oEUFs OEUFSBERCv BERCY-- Bake Bakethe theeggs eggsin inthe the usual usuaJ way. way. Garnish Garnish with with a a small small grilled grilled or or fried fried Jausage. sausage. Surround Surround with with Tomato Tomatosauce sauce(see (seeSAUCE). SAUCE). Berlioz Berlioz eggs eggs (soft-boiled (soft-boUed or or poached). poached). oEUFs OEUFS BERLroz BERLIOZ _ Brown Brown in in the the oven oven oval oval croustades, croustades, made made from from Duchess Duchess potato mixture(see (seePOTATOES). POT A TOES).Fill Fillthe thecroustades croustadeswith withaa potatomixture

L'AUvERGNATT - Cook some cabbage iri meat stock. Strain, Cook sorne cabbage in meat stock. Strain, and saut6 in butter or lard. Arrange the cooked eggs on the and saut in butter or lard. Arrange the cooked eggs on the cab_bage, alternating with rounds of sausage, fried in butter. cabbage, alternating with rounds of sausage, fried in butter. Cover with concentrated veal stock to which butter has Cover with concentrated veal stock to which butter has been added. been added. Babinski eggs (sur le plat). oEUFs BABrNsrr Garnish the Babinski eggs (sur le plat). OEUFS BABINSKI - - Garnish the co_okod eggs with cork-shaped chicken croquettes and I cooked eggs with cork-shaped chicken croquettes and 1 tablespoon morels in cream. Surround with concentrat'ed tablespoon in cream. Surround with concentrated veal stock, morels to which butter has been added. veaJ stock, to which butter has been added. Bachaumont eg5 (en cocotte). oEr.rFs BAcHAUMoNT _ Bachaumont eggs (en cocotte). OEUFS BACHAUMONT Butter the cocottes and line them with celeriac pur6e. Break Butter the cocottes and line them with celeriac pure. Break the eggs onto the puree and cook in the oven in-a bain-marie the eggs onto the pure and cook in the oven in a bain-marie (q.v.). (q.v.). Remove from the oven, season, and surround with Cream Remove from the oven, season, and surround with Cream sauce (see SAUCE), mixed with chopped chervil. (see SAUCE), mixed with chopped chervil. sauce Eggs and bacon I (srr le plat). orurs AU BAcoN Break the Eggs and bacon 1 (sur le plat). OEUFS AU BACON - - Break the eggs into an ovenproof dish lined with thin strips of bacon eggs into an ovenproof dish lined with thin strips of bacon which have been lightly browned in butter. pbur the fat which have been lightly browned in butter. Pour the fat from the bacon over them and bake in the oven. from the bacon over them and bake in the oven. Eggs and bacon tr (ftied). oEUFS AU BAcoN Fry the eggs (fried). OEUFS AU BACON -- Fry the eggs and bacon inEggs oil. Arrange in a ring, alternating with rashers-of bac6i, Arrange in a ring, alternating with rashers of bacon, in oil. grilled or friod in oil. Garnish with fried parsley. grilled or fried in oil. Garnish with fried parsley. Bagration eggs I (soft-boiled or poached). oEUFs BAcRArroN Bagration eggs 1 (soft-boiled or poached). OEUFS BAGRATION Serve the cooked eggs in a flan case baked blind. Garnish -- Serve the cooked eggs in a flan case baked blind. Garnish with diced macaroni cooked in water, bound with crea cream. with diced macaroni cooked in water, bound with m, and mixed with diced trufles. Mask with Cream sauce (see and mixed with diced truffies. Mask with Cream sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE).
L'AUVERGNATE -

sfARNlrsEBARNAISE

2i

Bagration eggs

Bagration eggs

Bagration erygs II (in moulds). oEUFs BAcRArroN _ Line a Bagration eggs II (in moulds). OEUFS BAGRATION - Line a buttered dariole mould with buttered dariole mould with macaroni macaroni which which has has been been cooked in water. Arrange the macaroni in a spiral. Spread cooked in water. Arrange the macaroni in a spiral. Spread Quenelle forcemeat (see FORCEMEAT) on the macaroni Quenelle forcemeat (see FORCEMEAT) on the macaroni and break in the eggs. Cook in bain-marie. and break in the eggs. Cook in a bain-marie. Unmould onto small round acroustades Unmould onto smalt round croustades and and mask mask with with Crearn sauce (ser', SAUCE). Add to each egg a round slice of Cream sauce (see SAUCE). Add to each egg a round slice of truffie cooked in butter. truffie cooked in butter. Balmoraf eg5 (en cocotte). oEUFs BALMoRAL Line cocotte Balmoral eggs (en cocotte). OEUFS BALMORAL- Line cocotte dishes with a layer of vegetable mirepoix (q.v.). Break the dishes with a layer of vegetable mirepoix (q.v.). Break the eggs onto the mirepoix and bake in the oven in a bain-marie. eggs onto the mirepoix and bake in the oven in a bain-marie. Remove from the oven, season, and garnish with I Remove from the oven, season, and garnish with 1 tablespoon diced mushrooms frid in butter and blended tablespoon diced mushrooms fried in butter and blended with concentrated veal stock. with concentrated veal stock. eggs (fried). oEUFs BAMBocHE .Bamboche Bamboche eggs (fried). OEUFS BAMBOCHE-- Fry Frythe the eggs eggs in in oil, and arrange in a circle onamacidoine (q.v.) of uegel;bte. oil, and arrange in a circle on a macdoine (q. v.) of vegetables blended with cream. Garnish with thin strips of fied salt blended with cream. Garnish with thin strips of fried salt cod, as described for Salt cod d la bamboihe (see COD. cod, as described for Salt cod la bamboche (see COD, Salt cod). Salt cod). Brnville eggs (soft-boiled or poached). oEUFs BANvTLLE _ Banville eggs (soft-boiled or poached). OEUFS BANVILLE Cook artichoke hearts in court-bouillon (q.v.) and saut6 Cook artichoke hearts in court-bouillon (q.v.) and saut them lightly in butter. Arrange the cooke-d eggs on the them lightly in butter. Arrange the cooked eggs on the artichoke hearts and mask them with Chivry-iauce (see artichoke hearts and mask them with Chivry sauce (see SAUCE). Garnish with thickened Chicken fircemeat d h SAUCE). Garnish with thickened Chicken forcemeat la (see FORCEMEAT). uime crme (see FORCEMEA T).
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EGGS EGGS
salpicon of of truffies truffles and and mushrooms mushrooms blended blended with with a a thick thick salpicon Madeira Madeira sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Put Put the the cooked cooked eggs eggs on the the garnished garnished croustades. croustades. Mask Mask the the eggs eggs lightly lightly with Supr4me Suprme sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Fill the the middle middle of the the dish dish with cocks' cocks' combs combs fried fried d la Fill Villeroi. Villeroi. Bernis eggs eggs I1 (soft-boiled (soft-boiJed or or poached). poacbed). oEUFs OEUFS BERNIsBERNIS - Make Make Bernis round croustades,with croustades, with a a small small rim, rim, from from puffpastry. puffpastry. Garnish Garnish round them with a layer layer of chicken chicken pur6e. pure. Arrange the cooked them eggs in in the the croustades. croustades. eggs Mask the the eggs eggs with Supr4me Suprme sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Garnish Garnish Mask with green green asparagus asparagus tips tips blended with butter. butter. with Bernis eggs eggs tr n (cold). (cold). oEUFs OEUFS BERNIs BERNIS - Mask Mask poached poached eggs in Bernis White chaud-froid chaud-froid sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Decorate Decorate with White truffles and glaze with jelly. jelly. truffies mousse (see of Chickm Chicken mousse Line a a dish dish with with a a layer layer of Line Arrange the eggs on the mousse, leaving space CHICKEN). Arrange between each each egg for for a bunch ofgreen of green asparagus tips. Spoon between half-set jelly over the whole whole dish. Serve very cold. half-set eggs in convenient to to serve the the eggs in individual If it is more convenient dishes, small small cassa cassolettes dishes made made from from metal, or shell shell dishes lettes or dishes, be used. used. crystal or china, can be moulds). OEUFS Bizet eggs eggs (in (in moulds). Brzur oEUFs BIZET - Butter individual chopped pickled tongue and line with finely chopped dariole moulds and poach them them truffles. Break the eggs into the mou Ids and poach moulds and trufres. in a bain-marie. eggs and and the eggs Cook artichoke artichoke hearts hearts in in butter. Unmould the put I 1 on on each artichoke Pirigueux sauce Mask with with Prigueux heart. Mask put artichoke heart. (see SAUCE). Put a on each each egg. truffie on a slice of truffle A LA LA (soft-boiled or poached). OEUFS oEUFs bohmienne (soft-boiJed i la boh6mienne Eggs garnish BOHMIENNE - Make croustades from puff pastry and puffpastry and garnish nonftr,rrcNNEthem foie gras. gras. Put on the the eggs on the cooked cooked eggs puree of /oie Put the with pure them with (se SAUCE). pure. Cut SAUCE). Cut Veloutd sauce sauce (see with Velout pur6e. Cover Cover them them with lean in Madeira. Madeira. Put heat them them in and heat ham into into matchsticks and lean harn the veal light veal ring of of light a ring surround with a and surround eggs and the eggs the ham on on the jelly. ALET -Bonvalet BoNVALET poached). OEUFS (soft-boiled or oEuFs BONV or poached). Bonvalet eggs eggs (soft-boiJed and Hollow in butter, butter, and them in brown them of bread, bread, brown rounds of out rounds Hollow out place the in the hollows. cooked eggs eggs in the cooked (see SAUCE) with Mask with surround with and surround SAUCE) and sauce (see Velouti sauce with Velout (see a sauce (see Biarnaise sauce tomato-flavoured Barnaise thick tomato-flavoured ribbon of of thick a ribbon SAUCE) piped I slice slice of of paper forcing-bag. Put 1 piped through forcing-bag. Put a paper through a truffle, egg. on each each egg. heated in in butter, butter, on trufre, heated Eggs (srr le rl BORDELAISEsonnsr.a'Isp plat). OEUFS A LA oEurs I (sur le plat). la bordelaise 1 Eggs i la Break Ia bordelaise bordelaise d la of chopped Cipes chopped Cpes onto a a bed bed of Break the the eggs eggs onto (see (see MUSHROOMS) cook as as usual. usual. and cook MUSHROOMS) and Eggs (fried). OEUFS sonoELAIsE -A LA r,l, BORDELAISE tr (fried). oEUFs la bordelaise bordelaise n Eggs i la Fry on eggs on Arrange the the eggs in oil. oil. Arrange oval crotons cro0tons in eggs and and oval Fry the the eggs .drth Cpes (see the la bordelaise bordelar'se (see d la Cdpes garnish with crofitons, and and garnish the crotons, MUSHROOMS). Eggs garnishes). OEUFS EN oEUFS EN (with various various garnishes). I (with border 1 a border as a Eggs as quarters, BORDURE into quarters, them into and cut cut them the eggs eggs and Hard-boil the BoRDURE -- Hard-boil thick halves. rounds, or or halves. thick rounds, yolks Butter the yolks eggs with with the the eggs plain ring Arrange the mould. Arrange ring mould. Butter a a plain facing with forcing-bag, with a forcing-bag, using a mould, using the mould, Fill the outward. Fill facing outward. forcemeat forcethe forcePress the vegetables. Press fish or or vegetables. meat, fish made of of meat, forcemeat made meat lid and and cook cook with aa lid spaces. Cover Cover with empty spaces. avoid ernpty meat down down to to avoid in oven. in a low oven. in a a bain-marie bain-marie in a low Turn all ingredients ail that the the ingredients dish so so that onto a a dish mould out out onto Turn the the mould come soon. it too too soon. remove it not remove Do not together. Do come out out together. Fill or sauted saut6ed garnish such creamed or such as ascreamed a garnish with a Fill the the middle middle with mushrooms; tips or or asparagus tips of vegetables; vegetables; asparagus macidoine of mushrooms; aa macdoine other leavesor or spinach leaves cream; spinach orcream; green vegetables in butter butteror vegetables in other green spinach etc. pur6e; sauted aubergines; etc. saut6ed aubergines; spinach pure; Spoon (s* SAUCE) the border. border. over the SAUCE) over sauce (see Spoon Cream Crearn sauce Eggs hard-boiled Cut hard-boiled EN BORDURE BoRDURE - - Cut II. OEUFS onurs EN as a a border border II. Eggs as eggs the arrange the caseand and arrange Bake aa flan flancase slices. Bake round slices. into thick thick round eggsinto eggs with them with alternating them flan, alternating of the the flan, round the the edges edges of eggs round

Eggs as border 10 to spinach spinach as a a border Eggs

saut6ed pickled tongue; calves' brains sauted calves' brains ham; pickled round slices slices of ham; round (zucchini) sauted sautEed in in or courgettes courgettes (zucchini) in butter; butter; aubergines aubergines or in goes weil hard-boiled garnish that well with with hard-boiled that goes any garnish with any butter; or with butter; eggs. garnishes of the the garnishes with one one of flan with of the the flan middle of Fill the the middle Fill with Cream Cream the eggs eggs with recipe. Cover Cover the in the the previous recipe. described in (see SAUCE) sauce. suitable sauce. any other other suitable or any SAUCE) or sauce (see hardBoRDURE -- Cut (cold). OEUFS Cut hardEN BORDURE oEUFs EN Itr (cold). a border border m Eggs as as a Eggs Put them them rounds. Put quarters or thick rounds. or thick halves, into ha eggs into boiled eggs boiled Ives, quarters jelly, and with and decorate decorate with white jelly, lined with with white moulds lined ring rnoulds into ring into suitable or any any suitable ham, or pickled tongue, lean harn, pieces of tongue, lean of truffle, truffie, pickled pieces jelly. Leave on ice. ice. to set set on Leave to garnish. Fill Fill with with half-set jelly. garnish. (cold). OEUFS Line a BoRDURE -- Line a EN BORDURE oEUFS EN IV (cold). Eggs as as a a border border IV Eggs jelly. Decorate the whites whites of of with the plain ring Decorate with mould with with jelly. ring mould plain etc. truffies, etc. eggs, truffles, hard-boiled eggs, stuffing made made from from ring with with stuffing fill the the ring forcing-bag to to fill a forcing-bag Use a puree of with pure of foie yolks of eggs sieved sieved with hard-boiled eggs of the the hard-boiled the yolks the foie half-set proportion of Fill the the rnould mould with with half-set gras, in to 1. l. Fill of 3 3 to in the the proportion gras, jelly. Leave refrigerator. Leave to to set set in in the the refrigerator. jelly. a buttered buttered croton cro0ton a dish. dish. Put Put a out onto onto a Turn the the mould mould out Turn yolks from from the yolks Sieve together together the mould. Sieve the mould. in the the centre centre of of the in gras. Stuff Stuff the the whites whites and sorne somefoie eggs and hard-boiled eggs halved hard-boiled halved foie gras. pyramid on on the the in aa pyramid the eggs eggs in heap the and heap this mixture mixture and with this with jelly over them. spoon jelly over them. and spoon with truffles trufres and Decorate with cro0ton. Decorate croton. jelly triangles. triangles. Garnish with with jelly Garnish d la Ia eggs also called called jellied are also In France France these these eggs eggs are In iellied eggs franaise. frangaise. (poached). OEUFS A LA rl BOURsouRoEUFs la bourguignonne bourguignonne (poached). Eggs i la Eggs pinch of (1pint, pint,2l cups) of red wine, wine,aapinch cups) red dl. (1 Boil 6 6 dl. cuIGNoNNE -- Boil GUIGNONNE parsley,aa twig twigof handful of of parsley, of pinch of pepper, aasmall small handful a pinch of pepper, salt, salt, a garlic, of garlic, and aacrushed crushed clove cloveof leaf and fragment of of bay bay leaf thyme, aa fragment thyme, for few minutes. minutes. for aa few poach 6 wine. in the thewine. 6 fresh fresheggs eggs in Strain, Strain, and and poach in fried in them on oncrotons crofftons fried arrange them the eggs eggs and and arrange Drain Drain the (see sauce(see Bourguignonne sauce with Bourguignonne butter. Cover the the eggs eggs with butter. Cover red into the the red kneaded butter butter into SAUCE) made by by blending blending kneaded SAUCE) made cooked. theeggs eggs were were cooked. wine in which which the wine in made from from crofitons made eggs on on crotons arrange the theeggs Alternatively, Alternatively, arrange with sauted saut6ed Garnish with friedin inbutter. butter. Garnish round round slices slices of of bread, bread, fried glazd onions. Bour' withBourCover with onions. Cover small glazed mushrooms mushrooms and and smaIJ (seeSAUCE). guignonne sauce guignonne SAUCE). sauce (see (soft-boiled or poached). OEUFS rA, osuFsALA orpoached). Eggs t la la bretonne bretonne 1I (soft-boiJed Eggs in friedin oncrotons, cro0tons, fried cooked eggs eggs on BRETONNE Arrange the thecooked BREToNNE - - Arrange (seeSAUCE), sauce (see SAUCE), butter. Bretonne sauce themwith with Bretonne Cover them butter. Cover outcrotons, cro0tons, inhollowed hollowed out Alternatively, theeggs eggsin arrange the Alternatively, arrange (or in filledwith with andfilled ortartlets), tartlets),and fried incroustades croustades or frid in in butter butter (or gravyto vealgravy to white pur6e. Cover withconcentrated concentrated veal Coverwith white bean bean pure. which hasbeen beenadded. added. which butter butterhas (rrrle plat). OEUFS nnrror.nts - LlBRETONNE Eggs tr(sur leplat). oEI;FsALA labretonne bretonne n Eggsi la theyare are Bake plat in way.When Whenthey leplat inthe theusual usualway. surle Bake the theeggs eggs sur

2t

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EGGS EGGS
cooked, surround surround them them with with aa ribbon ribbon of of Bretonne Bretonne sauce sauce cooked, (see SAUCE). SAUCE). (see Alternatively, force force through through a a forcing-bag, forcing-bag, a pur6e a thick thick pure Alternatively, of white white beans beans along along the the edge edge of of a a bultered buttered dish. dish. Break Break the the of eggs into into the the dish dish and and fry fry them them in in the the usual usual way. way. eggs Brillat-Savarin eggs (soft-boiled or eEgs 1 I (soft-boiled poached). OEUfS or poached). oEUFs Brillat-Savarin BRILLAT-sAvARrN -- Bake Bake aa flan flan case case blind. blind. Garnish Garnish with with BRILLAT-SAVARIN morels sa saut6ed in buller. butter. Put Put the the cooked cooked eggs eggs on on the the mushmushmorels uted in rooms and (see and mask mask with with concentrated concentrated Velout Veloutd sauce sauce (see rooms SAUCE) to which which sherry sherry and and butter butter have have been been added. added. Dress Dress SA UCE) to the centre centre of of the the dish dish with with buttered green asparagus buttered green asparagus tips. tips. the Brlllat-Savarin eggs (srr le plat). OEUFS eggs II II (sur le plat). oEr.JFs BRILLATBRTLLATBrillat-Savarin SAvARIN Bake the plat in the eggs eggs sur sur le le plal in the the usual usual way. way. Garnish Garnish SA VAR IN -- Bake them with with morels morels sauted saut6ed in in butter, butter, and and asparagus asparagus tips. tips. them Surround them them with with sherry-flavoured (see sherry-flavourd Velout Velouti sauce sauce (see Surround SAUCE). SAUCE). Brillat-Savarin eggs (en caissettes). eggs m Itr (en caissettes). OEUFS oEuFs BRILLATBRTLLATBrillat-Savarin SAVARIN -- Butter Butter small small ovenproof ovenproof china china dishes. dishes. Garnish Garnish SAVARIN them with with 1 I tablespoon tablespoon sauted saut6ed morels. morels. Break Break the the eggs eggs onto onto them them and and bake bake in in the the oYen oven in in a a bain-marie. bain-marie. them Garnish with with asparagus asparagus tips, tips, and and surround surround with with a a ribbon ribbon Garnish (see SA of Velout Velouti sauce sauce (see SAUCE), flavoured with with sherry. sherry. of UCE), flavoured (soft-boiled or Brimont eggs eggs (soft-boiled poached). OEUFS or poached). BRrMoNr -oEUFS BRIMONT Brimont puffpastry Fill a large puff a large croustade with with mushrooms mushrooms cooked cookd in in FiJI pastry croustade cream. Pu! Put the the cooked cooked eggs eggs on on the the mushrooms mushrooms and and mask mask cream. with thick thick veloule velouti sauce sauce made made from from chicken chicken stock stock with with with Madeira and and cream cream added. added. Garnish Garnish the the centre centre of of the the dish dish Madeira with small small round round chicken chicken croquettes. croquettes. Put Put a a slice slice of of truffle truffie on on with each egg. egg. each (soft-boiled or Eggs la i la bruxeUoise bruxelloise 1 I (soft-boiled poached). OEUFS or poached). orurs A LA rl Eggs BRUXELLoISE Arrange the cooked eggs eggs on hollowed-out on hollowed-out - Arrange BRUXELLOISE the cooked (which have crofitons (which have been browned in in the oven) or or in in crotons been browned the oven) (baked blind). tartlets (baked Garnish with chopped chicory chicory tartlets blind). Garnish with chopped (see cooked in in butter and bound with Bichamel sauce (see cooked butter and bound with Bchamel sauce (se SAUCE). SAUCE). Coat Coat with Crearn sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). with Cream Eggs t la plat). OEUFS tr (srr le plat). oEnFs A LA ra DRUXELsnlxnrEggs la bruxelloise bruxelloise II (SIIf le LoIs eggs onto chicory in in LOISE - Break Break the the eggs onto halved, halved, braised braised chicory ovenproofdishes and cook cook thern Surround ovenproof dishes and them in in the the usual usual way. way. Sur round them (see SAUCE). a ribbon Crearn sauce sauce (see SAUCE). them with with a ribbon of of Cream (soft-boiled or Cardinal eggs I Cardinal eggs J (soft-boiled or poached). poached). oEUFs OEUFS cARDTNAL CARDINALGarnish tartlets Garnish tartlets (baked (baked blind) blind) with with spiny spiny lobster lobster blended blended (see with SAUCE). Put with Bdchamel Bchamel sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Put the the cooked cooked eggs eggs on on the SAUCE). the lobster lobstcr and and mask mask with with Cardinal Cardinal sauce sauce (see (sec SA UCE). Garnish Garnish each each egg egg with with a a slice sliee of of truffie. tmflle. Crrdinrl Cardinal eggs eggs II II (in (in moulds). moulds). oEUFs OEUFS cARDTNAL CARDINAL - Butter Butter dariole dariole moulds moulds and and sprinkle sprinkle them them with with lobster lobstcr coral. coral. Break Break the the eggs eggs in in the the moulds mou Ids and and cook cook them them in in a a bain-marie. bain-marie. EmpW Empty the the moulds moulds into into tartlets tartlets garnished garnished with with a a mixture mixture of of lobster and, Bdchamel lobster and Bchamel sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Mask Mask with with (see Cardinal sauce SAUCE). Cardinal sauce (see SA UCE). Heat Heat sliced sliced truffies trumes in in butter butter and and put put one one on Oll each each egg. egg. Car0me Carme eg5 eggs I 1 (soft-boiled (soft-boiled or or poached). poached). oEUFs OEUFS c.mrvn CARME Arrange Arrange the the cooked cooked eggs eggs on on artichoke artichoke hearts hearts cooked cooked in in butter. butter. Garnish Garnish with with a a ragofit ragot of of sweetbreads, sweetbreads, trufres truffles and and mushrooms. mushrooms. Mask Mask with with thick truck Veloutd Velout sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE), SAUCE), one one third third of of which which should should be be veal veal stock. stock, with with cream cream and and Madeira Madeira added. added. Cut Cut slices slices of or pickled pickled tongue tongue with with a a fluted fluted biscuit-cutter biscuit-cutter and and put put I1 slice slicc on on each ca ch egg. egg. Car6me Carme eggs eggs tr II (in (in moulds). moulds). oEUFs OEUFS c.lnftvre CARME - Line Line small small hexagonal hexagonal moulds mou Ids with with pickled pickled tongue tongue and and diced diced truffies. trumes. Break Break the the eggs eggs into into the the moulds moulds and and steam steam them. them. Garnish. Garnish, and and mask mask with with sauce sauce as as in in the the recipe recipe above. above. Carme Carme eggs eggs m III (cold). (cold). osuFs OEUFS clnME CARME - Poach Poach the the eggs eggs and and trim triro them them so so that that little little of of the the white white remains. rernains. Line Line small small jelly hexagonal moulds hexagonal moulds with with jelly and and decorate decorate them them with with trufres truffles and and pickled pickled tongue lOngue cut cut into into small small pieces. pieees. Put Put the the eggs eggs into into
342 342

the moulds. moulds. Fil! jelly. Fill the the mou moulds with Madeira-flavoured Madeira-flavoured jelly. the Ids with Chill on on iee. ice. Chili put each Unmould the the eggs eggs and and put each one one on on an an artichoke artichoke Unmould heart which which has has been cooked in been cooked in court-houillon court-bouillon and and masked masked heart jelly. with jelly. Arrange Arrange the the eggs eggs around around an an aspic aspic of of sweetbreads sweetbreads with and trumes truffies made made in in a a conical conical mould. mould. and Cook small small mushrooms mushrooms in in court-houillon. court-bouillon. Mask Mask them them with Cook with (see SA White chaud-froid chaud-froid sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Decorate with with White UCE). Decorate lozenge-shaped pieees pieces of of trume. truffe. Put Put a a decorated decorated mushroom mushroom lozenge-shaped on each each egg. egg. on (soft-boiled or Egp i la la carmlite carm6Hte (sofl-boiled poached). OEUFS or poached). onurs A LA r,c, Eggs clnufrnt -- Bake Bake a flan case a flan case blind. blind. Garnish Garnish with with Musse/s Mussels in CARMLITE in (see MUSSEL). crecnn (see MUSSEL). Arrange Arrange the the cooked cooked eggs eggs on on the the cream mussels; garnish garnish with (see SAUCE). with White White wine wine sauce sauce (see SAUCE). mussels; (srr le Carmen eggs plat). OEUFS eggs (SIIr le plat). oEUFs CARMEN cARMEN -- Bake Bake the Carmm the eggs eggs plat in sur le le plat in the the usual usual way. way. Cut Cut them them with with a a round round biscuitsur biscuitcutter, Jeaving leaving only only a a narrow narrow ribbon ribbon of white round of white round the the cutter, yolk. Deep-fry Deep-fry crotons cro0tons in in oil. oil. Cover Cover each each croton cro0ton with yolk. with a a slice of of harn ham sauted saut6od in in a pan. Put a frying pan. Put 1 I egg egg on on each each slice slice slice of ham. ham. Mask Mask the the eggs eggs with (see SA with TomalO Tomato sauce sauce (see SAUCE), of UCE), seasoned with paprika and with paprika and with butter added. added. seasoned (soft-boiled or Carnavalet eggs eggs (soft-boiled poached). OEUFS or poached). oEUFs CARNAcARNACarnavalet vALET - Arrange Arrange the the cooked cooked eggs eggs in in a a circle circle on on Suhrics Subrics of VALET (see SPINACH). spinach (see SPINACH). Garnish Garnish the the middle middle of of the the dish spinach dish with a a macdoine macidoine ofvegetables of vegetables bJended blended with with Bchamel Bichamel sauce with (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Mask Mask the the eggs eggs with (see with Cream Crean sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). (fried). OEUFS Eggs i la la catalane catalane (fried). oEUFs A lA r,l CATALANE c,lrlrlxr -- Fry Eggs halved and thinly thinly sliced sliced aubergines aubergines in oil. Use halved tomatoes and in oil. Use a pan for separate frying frying pan for each each vegetable. vegetable. When When they separate they are cooked, mi!< mix the vegetables together and and season season with with salt cooked, the vegetables and pepper. Add garlie garlic and chopped parsley and and pepper. Add and chopped and arrange arrange a dish. on a Cook the eggs eggs in a frying pan and slide them on to Cook in a pan and them on to the vegetables. Eggs i la charcutibre 1 I (fried). OEUFS oEUFs A ra CHARCUTIRE cH,c.Rcuntnn la charcutire LA Fry Fry the eggs in lard. Arrange Arrange them on a dish in the shape of a crown, (see crown, alternating alternating them with $illed grilled Pork Park cripinettes crpinettes (see CREPINETTES). Garnish Garnish with and serve CRPINETTES). with fried fried parsley parsley and serve with Charcutire Charcuti\re sauce (see with (see SAUCE). Eggs i h la charcutibre charcutire tr II (soft-boiled (soft-boilOO or poached). orurs OEUFS I I/, small Pork LA cHARcurdinn CHARCUTIRE - Arrange the cooked eggs on on small Park uipinettes crpinettes (see (see CREPINETTES) CRPINETTES) which hive have been frid fried or grilled. Charcutiire sauce grilled. Cover Coyer with with concentrated concentrated Charcutire sauce (see (sec sAUCE). SAUCE). Chartreuse eggs (in (in moulds). moolds). oEr.rFs OEUFS EN EN cHARTREusn CHARTREUSE - Cut carrots carrots and and turnips turnips into into tiny tiny balls. balls. Dice Dice French French beans. beans. Cook Cook these these vegetables, vegetables, and and green green peas, peas, separately in in salt water. water. Drain Drain the the vegetables, vegetables, toss toss them them in in melted meltcd butter, butter, and line line buttered buttered moulds moulds with with them. them. Break Break the the eggs eggs into into the the moulds moulds and cook cook in in a bain-marie. bain-marie. Make round round cro0tes, crotes, hollow holJow thsm them out, out, and and bake bake until until golden. them with with well-drained well-drained braised braised cabbage. cabbage. golden. Fill Fill them Unmould Unmould the the eggs eggs and and put put them them on on the the cabbage cabbage in the the cro0tes, cro tes, separating separating each egg egg from from the the next next with with a slice of of cooked cooked sausage. sausage. Mask Mask with with concentrated concentrated veal veal stock stock to to which butter has has been been added. added. which butter Eggs Eggs au an chasseur chasseur I 1 (srr (sur le le plat). plat). oEUTS OEUFS AU AU cHAssEuR CHASSEUR Garnish Garnish cooked cooked eggs eggs with with sauteed sauted chicken chicken livers. livers. Surround Surround with with a a ribbon ribbon of of Chasseur Chasseur sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Sprinkle Sprinkle with with chopped chopped parsley. parsley. Finely Finely sliced sliced mushrooms mushrooms can can be be added added to 10 the the chicken chicken livers. livers. Eggs Eggs au au chasseur chasseur II II (soft-boiled (soft-boiled or or poached). poached). ouurs OEUFS nu AU cHAssEuR CHASSEUR - Bake Bake tartlets tartlets blind blind and and fill lill them them with with sautEed sauted chicken chicken livers. livers. Arrange Arrange the the cooked cooked eggs eggs on on the the livers livers and and cover coYer with with Chasseur Chasseur sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Sprinkle Sprinkle with with chopped chopped parsley. parsley.

EGGS
(soft-boiled or eggs (soft-boiled or poached). oEUFs Chateaubriand poached). OEUFS Chateaubriand eggs in butter. butter. Fill Fill hearts in Cook artichoke artichoke hearts - Cook (se, SA UCE). Arrange the eggs with thick Barnaise Biarnaise sauce sauce (see SAUCE). veal stock stock to hearts, and with concentrated veal on mask with on the the hearts, and mask which butter has been added. A LA I (soft-boiled or or poached). OEUFS orurs u Eggs i la chtelaine chltelaine 1 with Chestnut tartlets blind. CHTELAINE cnArrrlrxn -- Bake Bake tartlets blind. Garnish Garnish with (see PUREE) purie quarter of its weight of with a a quarter its weight PURE) mild mixed with pure (see Onion soubise soubise (see PURE). PUREE). Arrange the eggs on the pur6e Onion pure Velouti sauce (see SAUCE). and and coyer cover with a poultry Velout A LA I-l CHTELAINE csArrLArNE Eggs t la tr (cold). OEUFS oELrFs Eggs la chtelaine ch0telaine D with Chaud-froid Mask the the soft-boiled soft-boiled or or poached eggs with Mask poached eggs (see SAUCE). pickled tongue with pickled tongue and sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Decorate Decorate with jelly. glaze with jelly. truffies, and truffies, and glaze Arrange the in a a dish dish lined with a a jellied lined with jellied chestnut the eggs eggs in mousse. Coyer a thin layer of half-set half-set jelly. jelly. Cover with a (mr le plat). OEUFS A LA m CHAVILLE cruvnrB- Line Eggs i la Chaville (sur oEurs I tablespoon tablespoon salpicon ofmushrooms of mushrooms the ovenproofdish ovenproof dish with 1 and cook cook in in butter. Break the the eggs eggs into the dish and cooked in with 1 I tablespoon usual way. way. Garnish Garnish the the cooked eggs with the usual which chopped tarragon Tomato fondue fondue (see FONDUE) to which has been added. has poached). OEUFS cuENIrR or poached). oEUFs CHNIER Chnier Ch6nier eggs eggs (soft-boiled or (see, PILAF) add saffron. saffron. Make a Rice pilaf (see and add Make it Make a PILAF) and put 1 I egg and put egg on each. Garnish with sliced into small cakes and (see in oil. Mask with with Tomato Tomato sauce aubergines oil. Mask aubergines fried fried in sauce (see SAUCE). Eggs t la or poached). OEUFS onurs A L,c. Eggs LA la chevalire chevalibre (soft-boiled or cnevlrdRE - Bake a flan case blind. Arrange the eggs around CHEVALIREragodt the edge, and the flan a ragot the edge, the centre of the flan with a and garnish the and mushrooms, blended blended made of cocks' combs, kidneys, and made (see SAUCE). with Velout Velouti sauce SAUCE). Spoon Spoon Suprme with sauce (see SuprAme sauce (see SA in egg and SAUCE) the eggs. eggs. Dip cocks' combs combs in UCE) over (see over the I comb breadcrumbs and and fry fry them. Put comb between between each each egg Put 1 I slice of truffle and 1 truffie on each egg. and (srr le plat). OEUFS A LA I.l CHEVREUSE cnrvnEusn Eggs A la la Chevreuse (sur oEurs pur6ed French layer of pured French beans round the the edge a layer beans round edge of a Pipe a ovenproof dish. Break the eggs into the middle of buttered ovenproof and bake. the dish. Sprinkle Sprinkle with grated cheese and (stuffed). A LA r.n CHIMAY cnnaay Eggs ffed). OEUFS Egp i la la Chimay Chimay (stu oEUFs - Cut yolks and hard-boiled eggs lengthwise. Remove the yolks and pound hard-boiled (q.v.). Stuff them, adding an an equal quantity of dry duxelles (q.v.). the halved egg whites with this mixture. mixture. Arrange cover with Arrange the stuffed eggs in a buttered dish and coyer (see SAUCE). Sprinkle Mornay with grated cheese. sauce (see Sprinkle with Mornay sauce in the oyen and brown in oven or under a Pour meltod melted butter over and grill. (mr le plat). OEUFS AIrx CHIPOLATAScHIpoLArAs Eggs with chipolatas chipolatas (sur oEurs AUX Line an an ovenproof dish dish with with chopped onions onions softened softened in Line a grilled chipobutter. Break the eggs onto the onions. Put a yolk and pour melted lata sausage sausage on on either side and pour lata de of each either si each yolk in the butter over over the the dish. dish. Cook Cook in the oyen. oven. Surround Surround with butter concentrated veal stock. (soft-boited or poached). OEUFS Eggs i la la Chivry Chivry (soft-boiled orurs A LA r.n Eggs or poached). cHIvRy the cooked cooked eggs on fried fried crotons. crofltons. CHIVRY Arrange the eggs on - Arrange Garnish with green asparagus tips cooked in butter. Coyer Cover SAUCE). with Chivry sauce (see SAUCE). poached). OEUFS Choron eggs eggs (soft-boiled or or poached). oEUFs CHORON cHoRoN Choron Make oval crotons round the edge and Make cro0tons with a deep groove round butter. Put the cooked eggs on the crotons cro0tons deep-fry them in butter. Tomato sauce saucehasbeen and mask with Cream sauce to which Tomato has been added (see SAUCE). (see SAUCE) sauce (see Pipe a a ribbon of thick thick Biarnaise Pipe ribbon of Barnaise sauce groove round into the crotons. with small cro0tons. Garnish Garnish with the groove round the into the green peas cooked in butter. poached). OEUFS or poached). oeurs A rl Eggs LA Eggs A la la Clamart (soft-boiled or cLAMART Bake tartlets tartlets and and fill fill them them with with Peas d la CLAMART Peas - Bake (see PEA). eggs on on the the peas franaise (see PEA). Arrange the cooked eggs frangaise
CHATEAUBRIAND cHATEAUBRTAND -

(se SAUCE) to which Green sauce (see and coyer cover with with Cream Crearn sauce peabutter butters) has been BUTTER, Compound been added. pea butter (see BUTTER, Compound butters) Eggs LA Eggs n la h Clarence Chrence (soft-boiled or or poached). OEUFS oEUFs A cLARENcE and fi,!l fill them with a julienne (q.v.) CLARENCE - Bake tartlets and tongue, truffies, and and mushrooms. Arrange the of pickled pickled ton gue, truffles, cooked eggs in the the tartlets and coyer cover with with Rdforme cooked Rforme sauce tartlets and eggs in (see SAUCE) to which butter has been added.

eggs en cocotte Garnished eggs

E'N COCOTTE Eggs en en cocotte with cream. cocorrE A Eggs LA cocotte with cream. OEUFS oEUFS EN I tablespoon boiling cream Put 1 cream in the cocottes and and - Put of butter butter to the yolk. Bake in the break in the eggs. Add a nut of oyen oven in a a bain-marie. Eggs en en cocotte cocotte i la la duxeIJes. duxelles. OEUFS oErrFs EN BN COCOTTE cocorrE A r,c, Eggs LA DUxELLES buttered cocotte cocotte dishes with with dry dry duxelles DUXELLES - Line buttered and bake in the oyen oven (q.v.). Break the eggs into the cocottes and rn a a bain-marie. Remove from from the the oyen oven and and surround surround the in yolks with concentrated veal gravy to which butter has been added. EgEs en cocotte oEUFs EN EN COCOTTE cocorrE AU A.u JUS rus Eggs cocotte in gravy. OEUFS - Cook as for Eggs en en cocotte as cocotte with tarragon (see below) leaving out gravy until the tarragon and and reducing reducing the the veal veal gravy the tarragon is very until it it is concentrated. concen tra ted. naturel - Cook as described cocotte au natureldescribed under Eggs Eggs en cocotte en cocotte (see EGGS, Basic egg dishes). dishes). en EN COCOTTE Parmesan cheese. OEUFS oEUFs EN cocorrE Eggs en cocotte with Parmesan AU PARMESAN rARMESAN as for Eggs en m cocotte AU for Eggs Cook as cocotte with with cream. - Cook grated Pannesan Parmesan cheese cheese over over the the eggs eggs and and pour Sprinkle grated melted butter over. Bake in the oyen oven in a a bain-marie. rN COCOTTE i la p6rigourdine. orurs EN cocorrs A LA la prigourdine. OEUFS Eggs en cocotte pfnlcounorNs Break the the eggs PRIGOURDINE lined with a eggs into into cocottes lined - Break purbe of yolks. Bake in of foie gras. Put a a nut of butter on the yolks. pure oven in a a bain-marie. When cooked, surround the yolks the oyen (se SAUCE). a ring of Pirigueux Prigueux sauce (see with a Eggs en en cocotte I la la rouennaise. OEUFS uN COCOTTE cocorrE A LA I-l Eggs orurs EN RoUENNAISE d la Ia pdrigourdine, ROUENNAISE prigourdine, - Cook as for Eggs en cocotte (see FORCEMEAT) using ri gratin forcemeat FORCEMEAT) instead using forcemeat (see instead of (see gras. Surround with a pur& of a ring of sauce (see pure foie gras. of foie of Wine sauce which butter has been added. SAUCE) to which i la strasbourgeoise. stra$ourgeoise. OEUFS oEUFs rN cocorrr A Eggs en cocotte EN COCOTTE LA STRASBOURGEOISE srRAsBouRGEoIsE Line the the cocottes cocottes with with chopped LA - Line and cook in the oyen oven in a a bain-marie. bain-marie. truffies, add add the eggs, eggs, and gras sauted Garnish each each cocotte cocotte with with a a knob knob of of foie saut6ed in Garnish foie gras butter. Surround Surround with with concentrated Demi-glace sauce sauce (see butter. and butter have been added. SAUCE) to which which Madeira and Eggs en en cocotte with tarragon. oEUFs EN rN COCOTTE cocorte Eggs tarragon. OEUFS cocotte with A r'EsrRAGoN the eggs eggs as as described described under Eggs en L'ESTRAGON Cook the under Eggs - Cook (see EGGS, tocotte (see EGGS, Basic egg dishes). dishes). When the eggs eggs are ,:ocotte Basic egg When the

cntur CRME

343 343

EGGS
gravy f:Iavoured flavoured a ring ring of concentrated veal veal gravy cookd, pour a cooked, yolks. Garnish with blanched round the with tarragon tarragon round the yolks. Garnish with with The cocottes can lined leaves, arranged in in a a star. The can be Iined tarragon lea ves, arranged if desired desired.. chopped tarragon, if with chopped eN COCOTTE A LA rA, I la la tartare. tartare. OEVI'S oELrFs EN cocorrE en cocotte Eggs en cocotte Eggs and Add chopped chives and TARTARE Mince raw raw beef finely finely. TARTARE . Add - Mince pepper. Line salt and the cocottes cocottes with with this season with with salt and pepper. season Line the in the the eggs eggs. Pour a a ring ring of fresh fresh cream cream and break in mixture and . Pour yolks. Sake round the Bake in in the oyen oven in rn a a bain-marie. the yolks. round (soft-boiled or poached). OEUFS coLBERr eggs (soft-boUed or poached). oEUFs COLBERT Colbert eggs Colbert garnished with with a Arrange the cooked eggs eggs in in croustades garnished the cooked Arrange (see vegetables blended blended with with Bichamel sauce (see macidoine of vegelables macdoine Bchamel sauce BUTTER, the eggs with Colbert butter (see BUTTER, SAUCE). Mask lhe butters). Compound butters). Compound (soft-boiled or poacbed). poached). OEUFS oEUFs COMTESSE coMrnssE Comtesse eggs (soft-boUed Bake tartlets and garnish thern Sake them with a salpicon of truffies truffles and with Arrange the cooked eggs on top mushrooms. Arrange lOP and mask with (see SAUCE) ftavoured flavoured with with sherry. sherry. Put Put 1 I Suprme sauce sauce (see Suprme trufre on each egg. slice of truffle (srr le plat). OEUFS a border of Cond6 eggs 1 I (sur of onurs COND cot*o6 Cond - Pipe a pur6ed red red beans onto a Grill or a buttered pured buttered ovenproof dish. Grill them in lhe the bottom fry two slices of lean bacon and arrange lhem of the of lhe dish. Break the eggs on top and cook in the usual way. (srr le plat). OEUFS Cond6 ggs orurs COND coNof II (sur - Bake the eggs Cood eggs II cooked garnish with as in recipe above above and and when in the lhe recipe when cooked with 2 as with Suprme chicken croquettes. croquettes. Surround Surround with Suprdme sauce small chicken small (see SAUCE). (see (ur le Eggs Conti 1 I (sur le plat). OEUFS oeurs CONTI coNrl a buttered - Line a ovenproof dish dish with wlh I 1 tablespoon lentil lenti! pur6e. pure. Break Break the slices eggs and bake in the eggs into the dish and lhe usual way. 2 thin th in slices saut6ed in butter or grilled, added.. lean bacon, sauled grilled, can be added Eggs Conti tr fi (soft-boited (soft-boiled or poached). orurs OEUFS coNrl CONTI - Line Line a pie dish with a thin th in puree pure of lentils and arrange arrange the cooked eggs on the pur6e. pure. h la coque coque Eggs n - See EGGS, Basic egg dishes. cOrELErrEs Egg c6telettes ctelettes (hard-boiled). orurs OEUfS EN EN CTELETTES - Dice the whites and and yolks of hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs eggs and blend with a thick Bdchamel sauce (see Bchamel sauce (see SAUCE) to lO which which raw raw yolks of egg have been added. added. Chill. ChilI. 50-9. (2-oz.) Divide this Divide this mixture into into 50-g. (2-oz.) pieces and and shape into egg and and deep-fry. into cutlets. cUllets. Dip Dip in in egg and breadcrumbs and deep-fry . a dish. Put a frill Arrange Arrange in a circle on a frill on each cutlet and garnish Serve with garnish with with fried fried parsley. parsley. Serve with Tomato Tomato sauce (see (see SAUCE) SA UCE) or other suitable sauce. sauce. Egg Egg c6telettes ctelettes (cutlets) (cutlets) can can also also be be served served with with other garnishes, gamishes, such such as as green green vegetables vegetables with witb butter or or cream, cream, macidoine, macdoine, tomato lomato fondue, fondue, risotto, risotlo, and and different kinds of of pasta or pur6es. pures. The mixture for egg cutlets cUllels may be be varied. Diced Diced mushrooms rooms and and truffes truffies may may be be added, added, or if if a a meat mixture is preferred, diced ham or diced pickled tongue. Egg cutlets can be be cooked in in clarified clarmed butter bUller instead of being being deep-fried. deep-fried . Eggs Eggs with cream cream (srr (sur le le plat). plat). oEUFs OEUFS A LA cRtME CRME - Break Break the lhe eggs eggs into into individual individual buttered buttered ovenproof dishes. dishes. Surround Surround with fresh fresh cream and cook in the tbe usual usual way. Alternatively, cooked eggs can be surroundod surrounded with a Alternatively, the cookd ribbon of Crearn Cream sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SA UCE) . Eggs with OEUFS A r.l LA with crerm cream sauce sauce (soft-boiled (soft-boiJed or poached). osuFs cniw crotons fried in butter, butter, and CRME - Put cooked eggs on cro0tons cover with Crean Cream sauce (sw (see SAUCE). This recipe is also called Eggs Eggs d la bichamel. hchamel. Egp Eggs i la Crecy I 1 (soft-boited (soft-boiJed or poached). poached). oEtfis OEVI'S A LA LA cRtcycRCY - Arrange Arrange the lhe cooked eggs eB,gs in a pyramid pyramid on on a foundafoundation tion of of Carrot Carrot purie pure (see PUREE;. PUREE). Cover Coyer with Cream Cream sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SA UCE). Eggs i Ia la Cr6cy Crcy tr II (srr (sur le le plaQ. plat). oEUFs OEUFS A r,c, LA cRfcy CRCY - Spread Spread I tablespoon lablespoon Carrot Carroi purie pure (se (see PUREE) PURE) on the the bottom botlom of
344
Escargots (snalls) (snai!s) from (rom Burgundy Burgundy (Phot. (Phol . Nicolas) Nicolas) Escargots

small small buttered buttered ovenproof dishes dishes and and break break in in the the eggs. Cook UCE). Cook and and then thgn surround with with Cream Crearn sauce (see SA SAUCE). (frid). OEUFS Eggs n la h cr~le cr6ole (fried). oEItFs A LA r.l CROLE cnEorr -- Fry th!! the eggs grilled courgette halves. FiJI in oi! Fill the cenlre in oil and arrange on on grilled centre (see RICE). POUI of the dish with Rice with Rice d la la crole criole (see Pour Noisette huiler BUTTER, Compound Compound bulters) butters) over the eggs. butter (see BUTTER, (soft-boited or poached). OEUFS A LA Eggs t la la cressooire I (soft-boiled oELJFS LA cressonibre 1 pie dish Arrange the CRESSONRE cnrssoNrinn -- Arrange the cooked eggs eggs in in a a pie dish lined (see Watercress purie. with pure. Coyer with Watercress Cover with with Cream Cremn sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Bake in in the oyen, stock oven, or with concentrated veal slock to which which butter has added.. has been added to (nrr le plat). OEUFS Eggs Egp cressonilre II II (sur oEUFs A LA rA CREScnssi la h cressooire le plat). (sw SONLRE pure (see soxdnn Pipe a a border border of of thick thick Watercress purde - Pipe W ATERCRESS) onto a WATERCRESS) a buttered ovenproof ovenproof dish. Break in (se SA the eggs. Surround the yolks with Cre am sauce (see U CE). SAUCE). Creun Bake in the oven. oven. Sake (hard-boiled). OEUFS EN CR~UETIES Egg cRoeuErrrs Eg croquettes croquettes (hard-boiled). oErrFs EN as for Prepare the croquette mixture as Egg ctelettes for Egg cdtelettes binding White or Bichamel with Bchamel sauce (see SA UCE) . with White SAUCE). form the mixture into other shapes. When cold, fonn into eggs, eggs, or other shapes. Dip in in egg egg and and fry. fried Dip fry . Garnish and breadcrumbs and Garnish with with fried (se SAUCE). parsley. Serve with Tomato Tomato or Cream Crearn sauce (see parsley. SAUCE). poached). oEUFS Daudet eggs (soft-boHOO or or poached). OEUFS DAUDET DA UDET Daudet eggs (mft-boiled lhe cooked eggs on puff pastry croustades covered Arrange the on puffpastry with chopped breast breast of chicken. Cover with pur6ed pured truffies (ser, SA bound with SAUCE). wilh rich rich White sauce (see UCE). DAUMoNT Daumont Daurnoot eggs (soft-boiled or poached). OEUFS oEttFS DAUMONTArrange the the cooked large mushrooms cooked cookod eggs eggs on on large cooked in garnishd with a salpicon salpicon of and garnished butter and with a crayfish tails lails butter of crayfish d (see SAUCE). Put la Nantua. Nantua. Coyer la with Nantua sauce Put a Cover with sauce (see each egg. egg. sliver of truffie trutHe on eacb Delmonico Delmooico eggs (soft-boiled or poached). oEUFS OEUFS DELMoNIco DELMONICO (see SA the cooked eggs eggs with UCE) with Mornay sauce (see SAUCE) - Coat the truffles, and put them on a croustade of mixed with chopped truffes, filled with with lambs' lambs' sweetbreads, sweetbreads, mushrooms, and noodles filled lruffles, blended blended with with concentrated concenlrated Madeira Madeira sauce sauce (see (see truffies, SAUCE). Glaze in the lhe oven. poached). OEVI'S DEMIDemi-deuil eggs (soft-boiled or Demi-deuil eggp (soft-boiled oELrFs DEMIor poached). DEUIL DEUIL - Arrange Arrange the cooked eggs in a puffpastry puff pastry shell filled sauce (see cream . Coyer Suprme sauce with mushrooms in cream. Cover with with SuprAme SA UCE) . Garnish Garnish with with diced diced truffies truffies blended blended with SAUCE). with conSAUCE). Madeira sauce sauce (see SAUCE). centrated Madeira la diable (ftid). (fTied). oEUFs OEUFS A r,l' LA oLc,sLE DIABLE - Fry the eggs Eggs il Turn them in sizzling sizzling (nearly (nearly brown) brown) butter. butter. Tum them without without in the yolks. yolks . Arrange on a a very very hot dish. dish. Sprinkle Sprinkle breaking the with brown butter and a dash dash of heated vinegar. la la Diane Diane (soft-boiled or poached). osuFs OEUFS A LA DIANE D1Al'-<"EEggs i Eggs Arrange the the cooked eggs eggs on hollowed-out slices of bread, bread. gamished with purffi pured game. game. Cover Coyer with fried in butter and garnished Salmis sauce sauce (see SAUCE) to which diced diced truffies and butter Salmis have have been added. added . eggs (soft-boiled or poached). poacbed). oEUFs OEUFS DINo DlNO - Arrange Arrange Dino egs tartlets lined with finely shredded shredded breast breast the cooked eggs in tartlets of chicken and cipes cpes (or small small cultivated cultivated mushrooms) mushrooms) mixed of Curry sauce (se (see SAUCE). with cream. Top with Curry Duchess egp eggs (soft-boiled (soft-boUed or or poached). poacbed). oEurs OEUFS A LA LA DUcHESSE DUCHESSE Duchess - Arrange Arrange the the cooked eggs on oval potato potato cakes which which have golden. Boil down veal veal stock, stock, add butter to it been baked golden. and pour over over the eggs. eggs . OEUFS A LA Duxelles eggs eggs (soft-boiled (soft-boiled or or' poached). poached). oEUFs Duxelles the cooked cooked eggs eggs on on oval oval crottons crotons DUXELLES - Arrange the DUxELLEs ham tossed butter and garnished garnished with wilh thin thin slices slices of ofham lOssed cooked in butter in butter. butter. Cover Coyer with with Duxelles Duxelles sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE) with wilh in butter added. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with chopped chopped parsley. parsley . butter Easter eggs. eggs. oELrFIi OEUFS on DE pAeurs PQUES - Hard-boiled eggs with with Easter painted shells; shells ; or sweets made of sugar, chocolate chocolate dyed or painted elC., shaped like Iike eggs, which which are offered at Easter. Easter. etc., We may may owe owe Easter Easter eggs eggs to to the lhe Phoenicians. Phoenicians. They We

*-a :ly: '*

'* *'

3lr

EGGS EGGS
believed that that night, night, the the beginning of of everything, everything, begot begot an an believed egg from from which which came love and came love and the human human race. race. Towards Towards egg Easter the the sun reaches the the Equator, sun reaches Equator, the pass, the the long long nights nights pass, the Easter primeval egg egg breaks, breaks, and and mankind mankind is re-born. is re-bom. primeval past at In the the past at Easter Easter people were were content content simply simply to to In exchange dyed dyed or or decorated hens' hens' eggs. eggs. exchange popular colour The most most popular colour for for Easter Easter eggs eggs is is bright red. red. The In Germany Germany and parts of and Sorne some parts of France France eggs eggs used to to be be In garden and hidden in in the the ga~den and children children would would search search for for them, them, hidden rejoicing when when they they found found them them in in a a green nest. nest. Hard boiled eggs can can be dyed in in the following be dyed following ways. Coral red. red. Boil salted water for salted water for 45 45 minutes minutes with with a a dash of of Coral lemon (5 oz.) a sachet sachet containing g. (5 containing 150 150 g. oz.) cochineal cochineal for for lem on juice, a 2litres pints,4!pints) g.(2o2.)alum. water, and and 50 50 g. Cook 2 litres (3f pints, 4t pints) water, (2 oz.) alum. Cook the eggs eggs in this, this, keeping keeping them them on on the the boil boil for for 12 l2.minutes. the minutes. Drain, dip dip in in cold cold water water and and dry. dry. Drain, Dark maroon. maroon Cook the eggs, Cook the eggs, as as described described above, above, in in water water Dark (9 oz.) mixed with g. (9 udth 250 250 g. oz.) camwood, camwood, and and 1 I teaspoon teaspoon each each of of mixed and salt. salt. alum and Green. Cook the eggs, as as described the eggs, described ab above, in water water mixed mixed ove, in Green. with spinach spinach which which has has been been scalded, scalded, drained drained and pounded and pounded with in a a mortar. in Yellow. Cook the eggs, as as described above, in in salted salted water water Yellow. yellow onion peel, a with yellow a pinch of safron, and and a mixed with a dash dash juice. of lemon juice. of Modern vegetable vegetable dyes dyes make make colouring colouring eggs eggs a a simple simple Modern process. process. (cold). OEUFS Eggs t l'carlate] I'ecarlate I (cold). oEUFs A L'CARLATE r'fc,tnrlrr -- Cover Cover soft-boiled or poached eggs with with half-set half-set jelly, to to which chopped pickled tongue has been added. added. Arrange the the eggs jelly. on slices of pickled pickled or smoked ton tongue. gue. Cover with jelly. (soft-boiled or Eggs i l'carlate I'6carlate fi II (soft-boiled poached). OEUFS or poached). Eggs onurs A t'6c.lnr.lr[ -- Arrange Arrange the the cooked eggs on crotons cro0tons fried L'CARLATE fried in in butter. Cover with (see SAUCE) to with Tomato Tomato sauce sauce (see butter. Cover to which butter has added. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with diced, diced, smoked, butter has been been added. smoked, or pickled tongue. pickled tongue. put (sr le plat). OEUFS l'6carlate m Eggs i l'carlate Itr (sur oErrFs A L'CARLATE r'6c,murr -- Put I tablespoon (s* SAUCE) into tat)le~;pC)on concentrated Tomato sauce (see a butterod heatproof Break in a h"".tnrA.'"\' dish. Break in the the eggs, eggs, and and sprinkle with pickled or smoked smoked tongue. tongue. Bake until with finely diced pickled until the white is set. Edward VII oErrFs EDOUARD EDouARD VU eggs (soft-boiled or poached). l'U;iI\.OIJIOC'U}. OEUFS vn cooked eggs eggs on VII - Place Place the the cooked on Risotto (see RICE) RICE) mixed with alternating the with diced diced trufles, truffies, alternating the eggs with with slivers slivers of pickled or smoked smoked tongue cut in the shape of cocks' combs and heated neated in sherry. Cover the eggs with concentrated veal stock with butter added, and and garnish each with a slice of truffie. truffie. (stufred). oEUFS Elisabeth eggs eggs (stuffed). OEUFS ELTSABETH ELISABETH - Cut Cut off off the ends of hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs so they look like barrels. Take out the yolks without breaking the whites. Rub the yolks through a fine sieve. Mix with-an equal a fine sieve. Mix quantity quantity of of thick thick Artichoke purCe (se (see PUREE). Add chopped truffies, and season. season. Fill the eggs with this tbis mixture, piling piling it up on top. Place Place each each egg egg on on an an artichoke heart heart which which has has been stewed stewed in butter. Cover with Mornay sauce (see (see SAUCE). Sprinkle with grated cheese cheese and melted butter. Brown the top. Arrange the eggs in a crown on a dish. Fill Fil! the centre centre with a Ragofrt Ragot of oftruffles RAGOT) cooked cooked in Madeira. Madeira. truffies (see RAGOOT) Esaii Esa eggs (soft-boiled or poached). poached). oEUFs OEUFS esl0 ESA - Arrange the the cooked eggs in a pyramid on Lentil Lent il purie pure (se (see PUREE). Garnish Gamish with heart-shaped heart-shaped cro0tons crotons frid fried in butter. butter. pour Pour concentrated concentrated veal veal stock, with butter added, added, over the eggs. Alternatively, arrange the the eggs eggs on a croustade croustade of of crustless Alternatively, arrange bread, bread, fried, fried, hollowed hollowed out, out, and and filled filled with with lentil lenhl pur6e. pure. Cover added. Cover with with concentrated concentrated veal veal stock with with butter added. Eggs Eggs i l'espagnoh l'espagnole] OEUFS A r'espA,cNorr L'ESPAGNOLE - Cover I (cold). oErrFs
345
Sluffed fennel fennel (Phot. (Phal. Nicolasl Nicolas) Stuffed

the cooked cooked eggs with meat jelly to which tomato jelly has the has been added. added. Decorate each each with with aa ring ring of of blanched onion. been onion. pinch of Garnish with with aa pinch parsley, and of chopped chopped parsley, and cover Garnish cover with with jelly. Arrange half-set jelly. Arrange the the eggs eggs on on buttered buttered rounds rounds of half-set of toast. toast. Surround with with small small de-seeded de-seeded tomatoes tomatoes dressed dressed with with oil, Surround oil, vinegar, salt, salt, and pepper, and and pepper, and filled fitlod with green with diced diced sweet vinegar, sweet green pimentos seasoned seasoned pimentos dla la vin,'1iffrpl,/p vinaigrette. Eggs i l'espagnole I'esprgnole fi tr (fried). OEUFS oEUFs A L'ESPAGNOLE r'nspAcxolr - Fry Eggs Fry the eggs eggs in in oil. oil. Arrange Arrange them them in in aa crown, crown, alternating alternating with the with halved tomatoes tomatoes fried fried in in oil. Fitl the oil. Fill the centre centre of of the the dish dish with halved with onion rings fried fried in in oil. oil. Pour Pour aa ring ring of of Tomato Tomato sauce on ion rings sauce (see SAUCE) mixed with with a pimentos round the a salpicon salpicon of of sweet sweet pimentos UCE) mixed SA the
eggs.

in oil oil and and filled filled with with aa salpicon salpicon of pimentos. Fil! of sweet sweet pimentos. in Fill the the centre of of the the dish dish with with onion onion rings rings fried fried in centre in oil. oil. Cover Cover the the (se SAUCE) eggs with with Tomato Tomato sauce sauce (see SAUCE) flavoured flavoured with with red red peppers. Spanish peppers. (slr le Egp plat). OEUFS A l'espagnole I'espagnole IV IV (sur le plat). oEUFs A L'ESPAGNOLE r'BsplcNou -Line a a fireproof fireproof dish dish with with 1 I tablespoon tablespoon chopped Line chopped onion onion lightly fried frid in in butter butter and and seasoned seasoned with lightly pepper. with red red Spanish Spanish pepper. Break in in the the eggs and and cook cook in in the Break the usual usual way. way. Garnish Garnish with with Tomato fondue FONDUE) mixed Tomato mixed with with diced diced sweet sweet fon&rc (see FONDUE) pimentos cooked in in butter. butter. Favart eggs (soft-boiled or poached). oErlFs FAvART Favart Arrange the cooked eggs in small tartlet cases filled with a Arrange salpicon of of calves' salpicon calves' sweetbreads, sweetbreads, truffies truffi.es and and mushrooms, mushrooms, blended with with Velout Velouti sauce blended sauce (se SAUCE). SAUCE). Fill Fill the the middle middle with large truffied quenelles. Cover with truffied quenelles. with (see with Suprme Suprhme sauce sauce (see sAUCE). (soft-boiled or Eggp la Eggs la Oamande flamande ] I (soft-boiled poached). OEUFS or poacbed). oeurs A LA FLAMANDE -- Arrange FLAMANDE Arrange the the cooked cooked eggs eggs on on a a layer layer of of chicory chicory (U.S. Belgian Belgian endive) (U.S. endive) cooked cooked in in butter. butter. Cover Cover with with AlleAlle(see SAUCE). mande or mande or Cream Cream sauce sauce (see SAUCE). poached eggs on Alternatively, arrange arrange the poached on crotons crottons fried fried in butter. butter. Put in Put a a head head of of chicory chicory cooked d la la flamande flamande between between each each egg. egg. Boil Boil down down the the cooking cooking liquor liquor from from the the endives, add add cream, cream, and and bring bring to to the the boil. Add fresh boil. Add fresh butter butter and and pour over over the the eggs. (srr le plat). OEUFS Eggs t la la flamande II (sur le plat). oEUFs A LA r.l FLAMANDE rr.lulNDE -This me as This name usually means means the the sa same Eggs as Eggs h la la bruxelloise, bruxelloise, poached, soft-boiled, but but poached, soft-boiled, or or fried fried eggs, eggs, garnished with with hop hop shoots shoots cooked in in butter butter or or cream cream are are also called called Eggs Eggs d la la flamande. flamande. Florentine eggs (soft-boiled, poached, poached, or or sur srr le le plat). OEUFS oErJFs A r,c, TToRENTTNE - Arrange the cooked cooked eggs in gratin dishes on a layer of spinach cooked in in butter. butter. Cover with Mornay (sen SAUCE). Sprinkle sauce (see gratod cheese Sprinkle with grated cheese and and melted butter, butter, and and brown brown in in a hot oven. a hot Eggs la forestire] forestibre I (poached). OEUFS i la oEUFs A LA r-l FORESTlRE ronnsrrinn -Arrange the the cooked cooked eggs on on croustades filled filled with with morels fried frid in butter and and mixed with fried, diced bacon. bacon. Cover the the eggs with with Chateaubriand Chateaubriand sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Sprinkle Sprinkle with with chopped parsley. parsley. Eggs (nrr le plat). OEUFS Eggs t la forestire forestibre fi tr (sur oEr,rFs A LA r",c, FORESTIREronssntRE Garnish Garnish the ovenproof ovenproof dishes with with diced, diced, blanched blanched bacon, lightly fried frid in butter. Break put 1 Break in the eggs eggs and put I tablespoon morels, fried fried in butter, butter, on on each side. side. Cook Cook in in the the oven oven and and then season. (se SAUCE) round season. Pipe Chateaubriand Chateaubriand sauce sauce (see round the edges. Georgette (poached). OEUFS Georgette eggs (poacbed). onurs GEORGETTE cEoRcErrE - Partly potato and put in 1 tables po on Crayfish hollow out a baked potato I tablespoon la Nantua (see YFISH). Add (see CRA tail ragofit d la poached CRAYFISH). Add a a poached with Nantua sauce egg and cover with sauce (see SAUCE). Sprinkle Parmesan and melted butter. Brown the with grated Parmesan the top in a hot oven. Grand Duke eggs poacbed). OEUFS (soft-boiled or poached). Grand eggs ] I (soft-boiled oErJFs GRANDcRAND-

(soft-boiled or Eggs n l'espagnole I'espagnole poached). OEUFS or poacbed). (soft-boiled orurs A t'sspAcNor-E -- Arrange Arrange the the cooked cooked eggs eggs on on tomatoes L'ESPAGNOLE tomatoes cooked cooked

Itr m

rl

EGGS EGGS

,1r.rtil (Robert Carrier) Carrier) Florentine eggs eggs (Robert Florentine

fried in in DUC on oval oval crotons cro0tons fried eggs on Arrange the the cooked cooked eggs DUc -- Arrange butter (or pastry shells) of truffie truffie on on (or on puff pastry with a a sliver sliver of shells) with on puff (se,e SAUCE). with each. Sprinkle with SAUCE). Sprinkle with Mornay sauce (see each. Cover with hot in a a hot grated Brown the the tops tops in grated cheese melted butter. and melted butter. Brown cheese and oven. tips. truffies and and asparagus asparagus tips. diced truffies oven. Garnish with diced Grand (srr le plat). OEUFS cRAND-DUc -te plat). oEUFs GRAND-DUC eggs D tr (sur Duke eggs Grand Duke (see sauce (see Cover a light light Mornay Mornay sauce dishes with a eggs in in their dishes Cover the eggs SAUCE). grated cheese and melted melted butter. butter. with grated cheese and Sprinkle with SAUCE). Sprinkle Cook asparawith diced diced truffies truffies and and asparaGarnish with a hot hot oven. oven. Garnish Cook in a gus gus tips. tips. Eggs au poached). OEUFS (soft-boiled or AU GRATINGRATIN gratin (soft-boiled or poached). oEUFs AU au gratin Prepare (see below). eggs (see below). Mornay eggs llke Mornay Prepare like Halvy (soft-boiled or poached). OEUFS slr6w -oEUFs HALVY or poached). eggs (soft-boiled Hal6vy eggs Arrange Garnish in tartlets tartlets baked baked blind. blind. Garnish eggs in Arrange the the cooked cooked eggs with a veloutd sauce. sduce. Cover Cover blended with with velout of chicken chicken blended a salpicon salpicon of half with which sauce, to to which half with with tomato tomato sauce, santce, half with allemande allemande sauce, butter added. has been been added. butter has Hard-boiled cntcon6r -DURs SUR suR CHICORE endive. OEUFS oEUFs DURS eggs witb with endive. Hard-boiled eggs Arrange in endive cooked cooked in on braised braised endive hard-boiled eggs eggs on Arrange the the hard-boiled stock stock or veal'stock or aa with concentrated concentrated veaf Cover with or cream. cream. Cover stock or light UCE). (see SA SAUCE). light Cream sauce (see Crearn sauce Hard-boiled DURS garnishes. OEUFS oEUFs DURS various garnisbes. eggs with with various Hard-boiled eggs AVEC eggs and and the hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs DIVERSEs -- Shell Shell the cARNITuREs DIVERSES AVEc GARNITURES heat dry them. them. water. Drain Drain and and dry in salted salted boiling boiling water. heat them thern in Arrange various garnish them in the the various shown in them as as shown Arrange and and garnish recipes. recipes. Hard-boiled DURS oEUFS DURS vegetables. OEUFS a macdoine macfioine of of vegetables. eggs on on a Hard-boiled eggs SUR eggs the hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs Arrange the or LGUMES lEcuuns -- Arrange MAcfDoINB DE suR MACDOINE on cream. or cream. with butter butter or vegetables blended blended with of vegetables on a a macdoine macidoine of
346 346

pur6es. OEUFS DURs SUR suR oEUFs DURS various pures. Hard-boiled eggs eggs on on various Hard-boiled served with with a a be served Hard-boiled eggs eggs can can be - Hard-boiled chicory, mushrooms, chicory, pur6e of carrots, celery, celery, mushrooms, asparagus, carrots, of asparagus, pure potato, or or Jerusalem Jerusalem sweet potato, sorrel, sweet lettuce, chestnuts, chestnuts, sorrel, lettuce, artichokes. artichokes. DURS A LA LA oEUFs DURS with watercress. watercress. OEUFS Hard-boiled eggs eggs with Hard-boiled bed of of a bed hard-boiled eggs eggs on on a Arrange the the hard-boiled cRessoNNtinn -- Arrange CRESSONNIRE (see WATERCRESS). with Cream Cream purie (see Cover with WATERCRESS). Cover Watercress pure Watercress (see SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). sauce sorEN TASSE A LA u HOLTAssE la hoUandaise. hollandaise. OEUFS oEUFS EN in cups cups i la Eggs Eggs in with insides with the insides teacups and and coat coat the Butter 3 3 teacups LANDAISE -- Butter LANDAISE each cup and to each cup and ham to grated cheese. Add a of diced diced harn layer of cheese. Add a layer grated layer with aa layer pour in for an an omelette. Cover with whisked as as for omelette. Cover in 1 I egg egg whisked pour 12 for 12 layer of cheese. Cook Cook for a thick thick layer of cheese. with a ham and and top top with of of harn (see sauce (see Serve with with Tomato Tomato sauce minutes in in aa bain-marie. bain-marie. Serve minutes SAUCE). SAUCE). (fried). OEUFS Fry eggs eggs L'ITALIENNE -- Fry onurs A L'ITALIENNE I (fried). Eggs Eggs i l'italienne I'italienne 1 Alternate with with dish. Alternate on a a round round dish. in a a crown crown on in in oil oil and and arrange arrange in (see ltalian sauce sauce (see in butter. butter. Pour Pour Italian ham sauted saut6ed in thin thin slices slices of of ham SAUCE) over the the eggs. eggs. SAUCE) over (soft-boiled or poached). OEUFS A oelrs tr (soft-boiled or poached). Eggs Eggs t l'italienne l'italienne D and in butter butter and crustless bread bread in L'ITALIENNE Fry slices slices of of crustless L'ITALIENITE -- Fry with aa blended with ham blended chopped harn spread salpicon of of chopped spread with with aa salpicon (se SA Arrange SAUCE). UCE). Arrange Madeira-Havoured Demi-glace sauce sauce (see Madeira-flavoured Demi-glace (seeSAUCE) pour Italian sauce (see SAUCE) ltalian sauce the on top top and and pour the cooked cooked eggs eggs on with chopped chopped eggs. Sprinkle Sprinkle with the eggs. with added, over over the with butter butter added, parsley. parsley. (srr le A plat or oeurs en cocotte). cocotte). OEUFS Eggs Itr (sur le plat or en I'italienne ID EgS ir l'italienne with orcocottes cocotteswi fireproofdishes dishes or L'ITALIENNE th Line buttered L'ITALIENNE -- Line buttered fireproof punfEs DIVERSES DIvERSEs PURES

A selection of cheeses (So/exa. Phot. Vilter)

EGGS EGGS

Preparing eggs eggs Preparing

lahollandiase hollandiase dla

(Claire) (Claire)

Placing the thecups Placing cups inaabain-marie bain-marie in (Claire\ (Claire)

chopped ham. ham. Break in the the eggs Break in eggs and and cook cook in in the the usuaJ lean, chopped usual (s@ SAUCE) way. Pour Pour a a ring ring of ltaliilt sauce of Italian sauce (see SAUCE) round round the the way. eggs. eggs. (m cocotte). Jeannette eggs eggs (en cocotte). OEUFS oEUFs JEANNETTE JEANNETTE EN EN COCOTTEcocorrr Jeannette Line a a cocotte cocotte with with a a layer layer of of chicken chicken Quenelle Line Qumelle forcemeat forcemeat (see FORCEMEA FORCEMEATS). Break in in the the eggs eggs and (see TS). Break and cook cook in in the the usual way. way. Gamish with asparagus Garnish with asparagus tips. tips. Surround usual Surround with with (see SAUCE). Velouti sauce (see SAUCE). Velout Jellied eggs eggs i ]a la franaise. frangaise. OEUFS JeUied oEUFs GLACS cLAcEs A LA u FRANAISE ruNqArsE -IV. as a a border IV. See Eggs as JelHed tarragon tarragon eggs, eggq also also called Jellied called I la la Chartres. Chartres. OEUFS onrrs A L'EsrRAcoN A LA r-l GELE, L'ESTRAGON cn6s. A LA r,c, CHARTRES cHARTRES -- Line Line moulds moulds shaped like like half half an Ids, with shaped an egg, egg, or or dariole dariole mou moulds, with white white jelly. Decorate tarragon-flavoured meat meat jelly. tarragon-flavoured Decorate with with blanched blanched tarragon leaves. (poached or leaves. Arrange Arrange the tarragon the eggs eggs (poached or soft-boiled) soft-boiled) jelly. Leave on in the the moulds and in and fiJi fill them them with jelly. on ice ice to to set. set. Turn the eggs out and arrange Tum arrange them in in a a crown crown formation. formation, jelly. Decorate jelly Fill Fill the the centre with chopped centre with chopped jeJly. Decorate with with jelly cro0tons. crotons. Alternatively, decorate decorate the the cooked cooked eggs eggs with with tarragon jelly. Arrange them leaves leaves and and glaze with jelly. them in in a a deep deep dish dish on on th in slices of cooked ham. If-set jelly. Chili thin ham. Coyer half-set Cover with ha on Chill on ice before serving. This is serving. This is the the method method most most often often used used in in restaurants. restaurants. or soft-boiled Poached or Poached soft-boiled eggs eggs can can also also be be arranged arranged in in cassolettes lined individual cassolettes individual lined with with thin thin slices slices of of ham ham and filled with jelly. Jockey-club eggs eggs (sur (mr le Jockey-club plat). OEUFS le plat). oEUFs JOCKEY-CLUB JocKEy-cLr.JB -Cook the eggs sur le plat. Trim with with a a cutter, cutter, leaving only white. Place a thin thin band band of white. a griled crotons Place the the eggs eggs on on grilled cro0tons spread with with puree pure of foie foie gras gras and spread and arrange arrange in in a a crown formation. Fill Fill the the middle of the formation. the dish dish with with sliced slicod calf's kidney saut6ed sauted in Madeira. Madeira. Top Top each each egg egg with with a a sliver sliver of of truffie. truffie. Egg kromeskies (hard-boiled). onurs OEUFS EN Eg EN CROMESQUIS cRoMEseurs an egg egg croquette croquette mixture, as for Egg Egg ctelettes, Prepare an as for cdtelettes, adding truffies and mushrooms. Bind with Allemande sauce adding Allemanfu sauce 3! dt. dl. (generous (generous j ~ pint, l! cups) (see SAUCE), allowing 3| pint, 1| cups) for salpicon. Leave Leave the the mixture to cool. 500 g. (18 oz.) salpicon. Divide into small smalJ portions and and make them into oval Divide oval or or cork-shaped cakes. Dip in a a light batter and fry fry in in deep deep fat. Gamish with fried parsley. parsley. Drain, and season season with fine fine salt. Garnish Drain, Tomato sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Serve with with Tomato Serve Egg kromeskies i la la polonaise. polonaise. oEuFs OEUFS EN EN cRoMEseurs CROMESQUIS A Egg LA poLoNAIsE POLONAISE - Prepare the mixture mixture as as above above and and divide divide into into LA - Prepare the portions when when cold. Shape Shape into into rectangles. rectangles. Wrap Wrap each small portions each one in in a a thin thin crApe crpe (pancake). Dip Dip in in a a light light batter batter and and fry fry one deep fat. fat. Serve Serve with with Tomato Tomato or or Piquante Piquante sauce sauce (see (see in deep SAUCE). sAUCE). Eggs la la languedocienne languedocienne (fried). (fried). onurs OEUFS A LA raxcueLANGUEEggs

DocIENNE -- Fry DOCIENNE Fry the the eggs eggsin in oil. oil. Arrange Arrangeeach eachon onaaslice sliceof of aubergine aubergine fried fried in in oil. oil. Fill Fill the the middle middle of garlicofthe thedish withgarlicdish with f1avoured flavoured Tomato Tomato fondue. Dot with (see with Noisette Noisette butter butter (see fondue. Dot BUTTER. BUTTER. Compound Compound butters). but t er s). Eggs - Line (srr le Eggs plat). OEUFS i la la lorraine lorraine (sur le plat). ALA m LORRAINE onurs r,onnlNsLine aa buttered buttered ovenproof with thin ovenproof dish dish with thin rashers rashers of grilledbacon of grilled bacon and slivers of and slivers of Gruyre cheese. Break Gruydre cheese. Break in in the the eggs. eggs. Pour Pouraaring ring of of fresh fresh cream yolks and cream round round the the yolks and bake bakein in the theoyen. oven. Lucullus (soft-boiled or Ilcullus eggs eggs (soft-boiled poached). OEUFS or poached). oEUFs LUCULLUS LUcuLLUs - Arrange Arrange each each cooked cooked egg egg on on an an artichoke artichoke heart heart cooked cooked in in butter garnished with butter and and garnished with aa salpicon salpicon of of lambs' lambs' sweetbreads, sweetbreads, truffies, trufres, and and mushrooms, mushrooms, bound bound with with concentrated concentrated Velout Velouti UCE). sauce (see SA sauce (see SAUCE). Coyer Cover the the eggs eggs with with Suprme (see SAUCE) SuprAme sauce sauce (see SAUCE) to to which which coarsely coarsely diced diced truffies truffies have have been been added. added. Put Put diced diced foie gras which which has has been been seasoned seasoned with pepper and with salt salt and and pepper and foie gras tossed tossed in in butter butter in in the the centre centre of of the the dish. dish. Alternate Alternate the the eggs eggs with with cocks' cocks' combs combs la Villeroi. Villeroi. d la Eggs (sr le Eggs i la la maraichre maralchlre (sur plat). OEUFS le plat). oEr.rFs A LA m MARAcHREumdcntnE Line Line an an ovenproof ovenproof dish with 1 dish with I tablespoon tablespoon chiffonnade (q.v.) chffinnade (q.v.) of of lettuce, lettuce, sorrel, sorrel, and and chervil, chervil, tossed tossed in in butter. butter. Break Break in in the the eggs. Add a eggs. Add a thin thin rasher rasher of of bacon bacon sauted saut6od in in butter. butter. Bake Bake in in the the usual usual way. way. Marianne eggs (soft-boiled or eggs (soft-boiled poached). OEUFS or poached). oEUFs MARIANNE MARTANNE -Arrange the the cooked cooked eggs eggs on on de-seeded de-seeded tomato tomato halves halves cooked cooked in in butter butter and and filled filled with with thick (see FONthick Tomato Tomato fondue FONfon&te (see DUE). DUE). Top Top each each egg with a egg with slice of a sJice of black black Madagascar Madagascar potato potato cooked cooked in in butter, butter, and and coat coat with with Matre Maitre d'htel d'h6tel butter butter (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters) butters) mixed mixod with with dissolved dissolved meat jelly. Marivaux eggs UX (soft-boiled or eggs (soft-boiled poached). OEUFS or poached). oEUFs MARIVA MARTvA(x Gamish Garnish a a flan flan case, case, baked baked blind, blind, with with a a salpicon salpicon of of mushmushrooms and truilles. Arrange the cooked eggs in the flan. rooms and truffies. Arrange the cooked eggs in the flan. Pour Pour concentrated concentrated Madeira-flavoured Madeira-flavoured Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) with with butter butter added, added, over over the the eggs. eggs. Massna (soft-boiled or Mass6na eggs eggs (soft-boiled poached). OEUFS or poached). oEr;Fs MASSNA ulssfNl -Place Place each each cooked cooked egg egg on on an an artichoke artichoke heart heart cooked cooked in in butter garnished with butter and with thick and gamished thick Barnaise Bdarnaise sauce (see sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Top Top each poachod marrowbomi each with with a a slice slice of of poached marrowbond fat. fat. Surround (see SAUCE) Surround with with Marrow Marrow sauce sauce 1 1(see SAUCE) and and sprinkle sprinkle with with chopped parsley. chopped parsley. Massenet Massenet eggs eggs (soft-boiled or poached). OEUFS or poached). oEUFs MASSENETMASsENET Put Put the the cooked cooked eggs eggs into into croustades croustades made Duchess potato potato made of of Duchess mixture (see POTATOES) mixture (see POTATOES) and and filled filled with with a a salpicon salpicon of of French beans French beans dressed dressed with with butter. butter. Coyer Cover with with Marrow Marrow (see SAUCE). Sprinkle with chopped parsley. sauce 1 sauce I (see SAUCE). Sprinkle with chopped parsley. Eggs (frid). OEUFS Eggs n ]a h mnagre m6naglre (fried). oEUFs A LA r,c, MNAGRE rvrfr.rA,ctnr -- Fry Fry the eggs in butter. butter. Arrange the eggs in Arrange them them on on a a bed pot bed of of stock stock pot vegetables, sliced vegetables, sliced and and sauted saut6ed in in butter. butter. Surround Surround with with a a ring of Tomato sauce (see SAUCE). ring of Tomato sauce (se SAUCE).

347 347

EGGS
Garnish eggs (srr (sur le plat). oEUFs OEUFS MEvERBEER MEYERBEER Meyerbeer eggF - Garnish Surround with cooked eggs eggs with with grilled grilled lamb's lamb's kidney. kidney. Surround cooked Prigueux s.auce sauce (see SAUCE). PCrigueux (fried). oEUFs La ilrIrANtlIs Eggs t la milanaise milanaise (fried). OEUFS A LA MILANAISE - Fry the on a a dish dish on a bed bed of Macaroni Macaroni d Ia la eggs in in oil. oil. Arrange in a eggs Tomato and surround surround with with Tomato milanaise (see (see MACARONI), MACARONI), and
sauce SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). Mirette eggs (poached). oeurs OEUFS MIRETTE - Poach the yolks Mirette baked blind and garnished garni shed only. Place each in a tartlet case baked

with a salpicon salpicon of chicken breast and trufles truffies blended blended with
Veloutd sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Pour Madeira-flavoured thick tlick Velout Madeira-fiavoured (se SAUCE) over the eggs. Suprme sauce (see SuprAme Jilr eggs sur Miroir eggs. eggs. OEUFS MIROIR - Another name for eggs oEUFs MIRoIR
Ie plat. le (soft-bolled or poached). OEUFS oEUFs MoNSELET Monselet MONSELET Monselef eggs (soft-boiled cooked in the cooked hearts cooked cooked eggs eggs on on artichoke artichoke hearts Arrange the (se SAUCE), Veloutd sauce sauce (see with chicken butter. Cover chicken Velout butter. Cover with of veal stock stock and the same of its volume ofveal mixed with one third of quantity of cream, flavoured with sherry and and boiled boiled down. cream, fiavoured in butter, and small diced truffies cooked in Garnish with with diced truffies cooked butter, and Garnish potato croquettes. croquettes. MoNroEUFs MONTMontrouge egp eggs 1 I (soft-boiled or or poached). OEUFS Monhouge tartlet cases cases baked ROUGE the cooked cooked eggs eggs in in tartlet RoucE - Arrange the (se PURE). garnished with PUREE). blind, and pure (see with Mushroom purie blind, and garnished SAUCE). SuprAme sauce (see SAUCE). Cover with Suprme (srr le en cocotte). oEuFs Montrouge plat or eggs II II (sur or en cocotte). OEUFS le plat Monhouge eggs pipe a and pipe dishes and MONTROUGE Butter the the ovenproof dishes MoNTRoucE - Butter a forcing pure (see PURE) PUREE) through a border of Mushroom purie bag. Break in the eggs. Surround the yolks with fresh cream. Bake in the oven. lined with the eggs eggs into into a a cocotte cocotte lined break the . Alternatively, break yolks with (se PURE). Surround the the yolks pure (see Mushroom purie PUREE). Surround oven, in a bain-marie. fresh cream. cream. Cook in the oven, MoRNAY Mornay eggs I (soft-boiled or poached). OEUFS oEtrFs MORNAY eggp 1 layer of dish on on a a layer Arrange eggs in in a a fireproof dish Arrange the cooked cookod eggs fried in in butter. butter. cro0tons fried Mornay Mornay sauce (see SAUCE) or on crotons grated cheese and and Cover sauce. Sprinkle with grated with Mornay sauce. Cover with the oven. melted butter. Brown the top in the

plat Mornay Momay eggs eggs sur sur le plat

(mr le plat). OEUFS Break the the Mornay eggs 0 tr (sur le plat). oeurs MORNAY MoRNAy Momay eggs - Break (se Mornay sauce eggs with Mornay sauce (see dish lined lined with eggs into into an an ovenproof dish SAUCE). sauce. Sprinkle with grated cheese SAUCE). Cover with the sauce. and and brown in in the oven. and melted butter, and r.,c, A LA Eggs I (soft-boiled or or poached). OEUFS oetns Eggs t la la Nantua 1 NANTUA with Arrange the the cooked cooked eggs eggs in in tartlets tartlets filled fiUed with - Arrange (see CRA Crayfish YFISH). Cover ragofit d la ln Nantua (see tail ragot CRAYFISH). Crayfish tai! with UCE). Top each a sliver with Nantua Nanttn sauce (see SA SAUCE). each egg with a of truffie. trufle. (mr le plat). OEUFS Eggs A LA rl' NANTUA NlNru,l -- Fill Fill h Nantua 0 tr (sur orurs EggF n la a with crayfish tails. tails. Break in in the a buttered ovenproof dish dish with the buttered ovenproof
348 348

a sliver of truffie eggs and and cook in eggs in the the oven. oven. Put a truffle on on each yolk. Cover with Nantua sauce (see SAUCE). plat). OEUFS BEITRRE onurs AU Eggs Eggs with noisette butter (nrr (sur le le plat). AU BEURRE a flameproof dish until light NoIsErrE NOISETTE Heat the butter in a - Heat brown or noisette. Break the eggs into the heated butter and bake in the usual usual way. i LA or poached). OEUFS oEUFs Egp t la la normande normande (soft-boiled or Eggs puff pastry cooked eggs eggs on on puif NoRMANDE NORMANDE Arrange the the cooked - Arrange of mussels, mushrooms and croustades, filled with a salpicon of (see SAUCE). with Normande sauce (see SAUCE). shrimps' shrimps' tails, tails, bound bound with Normande sauce Cover wi with debearded oyster oyster on each egg. Cover Put a poached poached and debearded th a sliver of truffie. Normande sauce. Top each egg with a Normande at the end end of this See under separate heading at Onelette Omelette - See section. section. (srr le plat). OEUFS orurs OPRA Eggs opra opera (sur op6ru, Eggs - Garnish the cooked with sliced sliced chicken chicken livers livers sauted saut6ed in on one one side side with eggs on eggs with asparagus tips. Surround Madeira, and the other with asparagus tips. and on on tbe Madeira, veal stock, with butter added. boiled-down veal a ring of boiled-down with a peRtsrNNE A LA u PARISIENNE le plat). OEUFS oetrs i la parisienne (sr Eggs (sur le with chicken lined with into ovenproof dishes dishes lined Break the eggs eggs into Break the pickled smoked truffies, and smoked tongue, trufHes, and forcemeat mixed with pickled in the usual way. way. Surround chopped mushrooms. Cook in chopped mushrooms. Cook the usual a ring of Demi-glace sauce (see SAUCE). with a rARMENTTER Bake 4 4 large Parmentier eggs eggs 1. I. OEUFS oEUFs PARMENTIER Parmentier large - Bake potatoes in Halve them and scoop out out the pulp, in the oven. oven. Halve and scoop taking care not to break the skin. Blend the pulp with butter and season. season. Line the potato skins with this pulp, and cream, and with cream half. cream and I egg egg into into each each ha Sprinkle with and break break 1 and If. Sprinkle in the oven. bake in described above, the potatoes as as described Alternatively, prepare tbe put a poached egg into half. Cover each potato balf. with Cover witb a poacbed into each and put and (se SAUCE). Sprinkle grated cheese with grated Mornay sauce sauce (see Sprinkle witb Mornay the oven. and melted butter and and brown the top in tbe and (sur le plat). OEUFS rARMENTIER n (sor Parmentier eggs eggs 0 le plat). orurs PARMENTIER Parmentier line diced potatoes, fried dish and li Butter an ovenproof ovenproof disb Butter ne with diced with a a ring ring of cream in tbe the eggs. eggs. Surround witb in butter. Break in and cook in tbe the oven. and poucNAc -(in moulds). A LA r,q, POLIGNAC h Polignac (in moulds). OEUFS oEUFs Eggs n la Eggs dariole moulds, Break the eggs into into buttered buttered individual individual dariole Break tbe eggs in each. with a a sliver sliver of trufHe truffie in each. Cook in in a a bain-marie. bain-marie. UnUnwitb crofitons fried fried in in butter. butter. Top Top with eggs on onto mould tbe the eggs mould to crotons (see BUTTER, Maltre d'htel butter (see BUTTER, Compound Compound butters) d'hdtel butter Matre jelly. dissolved meat jelly. mixed with dissolved A LA porhrgaise 1 rn oeuFs I (soft-boiled or oi poached). OEUFS Egp i la la portugaise Eggs poRTUcAIsE - Arrange half each cooked cooked egg egg on on a a tomato tomato balf PORTUGAISE - Arrange each has been cooked in oil. oil. Cover witb with Portugaise Portugaise sauce which has cooked in which (see SAUCE). ponrucelsn (sr le plat). OEUFS portugaise 0 A LA tr (sur u PORTUGAISE A la Ia portugaise oEuFs Eggs on 1 I Break each egg into a buttered ovenproof dish on Break eacb egg into a buttered ovenproof disb (see FONDUE). Tomato fondue FONDUE). Cook Cook in in the tablespoon Tomato tablespoon fon&te (see oven. pRINcEssE poached). OEUFS Princess eggs eggs (soft-boiled or or poached). oEUFs PRINCESSE Princess puff pastry Arrange tbe the cooked cooked eggs eggs on on crotons or in in puff cro0tons or - Arrange (see SAUCE). Cover witb with Suprme Suprme sauce sauce (see SAUCE). croustades. croustades. Cover with asparagus tips tips and and cbicken Garnish witb chicken breasts shredded Garnisb each egg with a a sliver of trufHe. trufre. strips. Top eacb into julienne strips. into printaniCre 1 A LA osuFs r,l, la printanire I (soft-boiled or poached). OEUFS Eggs Eges i la pntNtAr.IItRE - Arrange puff pastry a puff the cooked cooked eggs eggs on on a PRINTANIRE - Arrange the (q.v.) of base covered covered with a a printaniere of vegetables dressed base printanire (q.v.) (see SAUCE) with with cream. cream. Prepare Prepare Suprme SuprAme sauce sauce (see SAUCE) witb witb with Printanier butter butter added. added. Pour Pour over over the the eggs. eggs. Garnisb Garnish witb Printanier in butter. asparagus tips in pRINr,lNdnr -(cold). OEUFS printaniCre 0 tr (cold). A LA u, PRINTANIRE Eggs EgS i la la printanire oEuFs (soft-boiled or poached) on Arrange the the eggs eggs (soft-boiled or poached) on a a bed bed of of Arrange (q.v.) of vegetables dressed with mayonnaise mayonnaise macdoine macCdoine (q.v.) of vegetables dressod witb gelatine. Gamisb green asparagus with gelatine. strengthened strengthened with Garnish witb with green asparagus with tarragon tarragon leaves. leaves. Cover with tips. tips. Decorate Decorate tbe the eggs eggs witb Cover with bal f-set jelly. half-set

EGGS
Eggs i la provengale I (soft-boiled or poached). OEUFS A ra provenale 1 LA orurs pRovENgALEArrange each cooked egg on a halved tornato tomato - Arrange

cooked in oil. oil. Cover clear, garlic-flavotrd Tomato Coyer with with c1ear, garlic-flavoured Tomalo (see FONDUE). with coarsely coarsely diced fondue (sec FONDUE). Garnish Garnish with fondue

aubergines fried aubergines fried in oil. oiL Sprinkle with chopped parsley. parsley. pRovENgALE (srr le plat). OEUFS provengale tr Eggs i la provenale onurs.i Eggs li (sor LA PROVENALE individu al ovenproof dishes with garlic and line hne them thern - Rub individual with slices of aubergines fried in in oil. aubergines fried Break in the eggs and oiL Sreak bake (see oven. Pour ring of bake in in the the oyen. Provenale sauce Pour a a ring of Provengale sauce (see SAUCE), SA UCE), round the yolks. pRowNgALE Eggs t la provengale ID m (fried). oEUFs A rl PROVENALE (friOO). OEUFS LA Fry the eggs in oil and arrange each one on a halved tomato fried in oil. Garnish with slices of of aubergine, aubergine, fried in oil, and fried parsley. parsley. pnovsNqAlE (fried). OEUFS provengale IV (friOO). i la provenale Eggs oEr.rFs A LA r.l PROVENALE Spread thinLy thinly sliced sliced aubergines, aubergines, fried fried n in oH, oil, on on a a dish. with halved tomatoes, seeded, and Alternate with tornatoes, pressed, seeded, fried and fried in oil. oil. Arrange friod eggs eggs on on this this layer, sprinkle with in Arrange fried layer, and and sprinkle sizzling butter I tablespoon chopped butter to which 1 parsley mixed rnlxed sizzling chopped parsley with chopped chopped garlic has been added. jelly). onurs (glazed in Eggs t la la provengale V Eggs V (glazed OEUFS A LA in jelly). r,c, pRovENqALB - Coat the eggs (soft-boiled (soft-boiled or poached) with PROVENALE with tomato-flavoured, gelatine-strengthened mayonnaise. tomato-l1avoured, gelatne-strengthened mayonnaise. jelly. Arrange glaze with and glaze with jelly. Decorate with tarragon leaves leaves and each egg on a halved tomato, (Ornato, which has been seeded, steeped oil, vinegar, salt salt and and pepper, in oil, pepper, stuffed with diced diced potatoes and aubergines, garlic-flavoured mayonaubergines, and dressed with garlic-flavoured and dressed and garnish with chopped naise. Arrange the eggs in a crown and garnish parsley. Rachel eggs (fried). OEUFS oEUFs RACHEL - Fry the eggs in butter. RAcHEL Trim with a round pastry-cutter, pastry-cutter, leaving only a thin band of

white. Arrange Arrange each egg on a slice of of bread fried in butter. Coyer Cover (see SAUCE). Top with with Marrow sauce sauce (sec slice of wilh a a thin thin slice with marfow. marrow. (soft-boiled or poached). OEUFS Eggs t Ia reine 1 I (soft-boiled ontns A RErNE Eggs la reine LA REINEArrange the cooked eggs in in tartlets tartlets filled with Chicken the cooked filled wHh purie (see PURE), (see PUREE), and coyer cover with with Suprme SuprAme sauce sauce (see

SAUCE). (srr le Eggs t la reine II II (sur le plat or la reine or en en cocotte). OEUFS orurs A Eggs rl LA REINEButter the ovenproofegg REINE - Butter ovenproof egg dishes or cocolles cocottes and pipe a border of Chicken a pure (se PURE) Chicken purie PUREE) through a forcingbag. Break Break in in the the yolks with thick the eggs. Surround the chicken Velouti sauce (see SAUCE) with cream. Cook in
the oyen. oven. (fried). oEUFs Eggs la romaine (fried). i la A LA r-l ROMAINE RorvrlrNr OEUFS - Fry the eggs in oil. Toss chopped spinach in oil. Toss in Noisette Noiselle buller butter (se BUTTER, Compound Cornpoundbutters) bUllers) and mix with diced anchovies. Arrange the on top, with more more noiselle sprinkle with Arrange the eggs top, and and sprinkle eggs on noisette butter. huiler. Rossini I (soft-boiled or or poached). OEUFS oEUFs ROSSINI RossINI Rossini eggs 1 Arrange a slice of foie gras saut6ed in Arrange each cooked egg on a gras sauted n butter. in butter. Cover butter. Top with 2 slices of truffie truffle tossed in Coyer (se SAUCE). Madeira-flavoured Demi-glace SAUCE). Demi-glace sauce (sec with Madeira-flavoured Alternatively, arrange the eggs in puff pastry tartlets ]ined lined with coarsely dicdfoie gras. Garnish with slivers of truffies. trumes. (see Boil down a Demi-glace sauce a Madeira-flavoured Demi-glace sauce (see Boil down SAUCE), add butter, and and pour over the eggs. UCE), add SA (srr le plat or en cocotte). Rossini tr (sur cocotte). OEUFS oEr.rFs ROSSINI Rossrm Rossini eggs U Break eggs inlo into buttered or cocolles cocottes Break the eggs buttered ovenproof dishes or gras lined with a salpicon salpicon of foie gras and and trufres. in the trumes. Bake in lined with a oven. Surround with concentrated Madeira-tl.avoured Madeira-flavoured Demioyen. glace sauce (see SA UCE) with butter added. SAUCE) Rothomago eggs (wr le plat). oEUFS RorHoMAco Rothomago (sur le plat). OEUFS ROTHOMAGO - Line the slices of ham tossed in in butter. ham tossed butter. the ovenproof dishes with with slces Break in the eggs and and cook cook in in the usual way. Garnish with usual way. grilled chipolata chipolata sausages. sausages. Surround Surround with with Tomalo Tomato sauce grilled SAUCE). (see SA UCE).
349 349

poached). onurs u Eggs li la royale royale (soft-boiled or or poachOO). OEUFS A LA Eggs i la pastry cases on puff pastry cooked eggs eggs on cases the cooked - Arrange the filLed with with a Iruffles blended with with concentrated filled a salpicon of trufres (see SAUCE). Cover sauce (see COYer Madeira-flavoured Demi-glace sauce (see SAUCE) Veloutd sauce sauce (see SAUCE) mixed with with chicken with chicken Velout pur6ed truffies with cream cream and diluted with pured truffles dluted and flavoured flavoured with Madeira. Madeira. oEUFs .i Eggs Il (soft-boUed or poached). OEUFS i la la Saint-Hubert Saint-Hubert (soft-boiled a pie Arrange the cooked eggs LA eggs in in a pie dish LA SAINT-HUBERT sAINr-HUBERT - Arrange on a layer of minced venison or any Coyer with any other game. Cover (see SAUCE). Garnish game Poivrade sauce with puff sauce (sec Garnish with game pastry crescents or heart-shaped heart-shaped cro0tons fried frjed in butter. (soft-boiled or poached). porched). OEUFS r'6coss.usp osurs A Scotch eggs L'COSSAISEeggs 1 I (soft-boiled on puff pastry Arrange the pastry cro0tes crotes covered Arrange the cooked cooked eggs eggs on Coyer with Shrimp sauce with Salmon purCe (see PURE). PUREE). Cover a sliver of trufre. (see SAUCE). Decorate each egg with a truffle. (colo. OEUFS Make a oELIFs A r'6coss,llsu L'COSSAISE Scotcb eggs U tr (cold). Scotch eggs - Make harn, 2 to 3 pounded forcemeat using finely minced cooked ham,2 and enough enough fresh fresh breadcrumbs breadcrumbs to anchovy to give anchovy fillets fillets and 'body'. and mixed spices. Sind Bind with salt, salt, pepper, and 'body'. Season mixed spices. Season with wth raw blend well. Shell hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs and with raw egg and and blend coat each with the forcerneat. h.,',>r'If"'rllln1 forcemeat. Dip in in egg egg and and breadcrumbs and deep-fry in hot fat. egp See EGGS, Basic egg dishes. &rambled Scrambled eggs - See snouIt.r6s A oEUFs BROUILLS i I'am6ricaine. Scrambled J'amricaine. OEUFS Scrambled eggs scrambled eggs, eggs, diced diced bacon L'AM"RICATNe te the bacon r'.lMfnrc^clNr the scrambled - Add to grilled bacon and with rashers fried in butter. butter. Garnish Garnish with rashers of grilled fried in halved grilled tomatoes. with sliced The same same name The name is is used used for for scrambled eggs with for these I'americaine. Recipes for lobster or lobster tt l'americaine. lobster or spiny lobster Scrambled eggs d I'armoricaine found under under Scrambled will be found dishes will (see below). A r'lNcreNNE BRouILLfs &rambled eggs L 'ANCIENNe I l'ancienne. I'ancienne. OEUFS oEUFs BROlLLS Scrambled eggs truffles tossed in butter, to the diced trufres - Add mushrooms and diced scrambled Arrange in a flan case baked blind. Garnish Garnish scrambled eggs. Arrange Veloutd sauce sauce (see with in sherry-flavoured Velout with cocks' (see cocks' kidneys in cocks' combs combs d la /a SAUCE) with cocks' with crearn. cream. Surround Surround with SAUCE) with (se SAUCE). VillerO Villeroi and and sherry-flavoured sherry-flavoured Suprdme sauce (see Scrambled eggs I ft I'antiboise. oEUFs OElJFS nnouu,rfs BROUILLS A Scrambled eggs a deep ovenproof L'ANTlBOISE L'ANTIBoIsE scrambled eggs in a - Arrange scrambled saut6ed in in oil, with sliced sliced courgettes courgettes sauted dish, oil, and dish, alternating alternating with a layer of with Toma 10 fondue fondUl! (see FONDUE). Finish with wth a Tomato grated Parmesan melted butter. Parmesan and and melted Sprinkle wth with grated eggs. butter. eggs. Sprnkle Brown in a a hot oyen. oven. ARGENTEUIL sRouII-rEs ARGIlNTEUIL orurs BROUILLS Scrambled Argenteuil. OEUFS Scrambled eggs Argenteiril. white asparagus asparagus tips, the scrambled with white scrambled eggs eggs with Garnish the - Gamish simmered in in butter. water and and then ha If cooked in then simmered half in salted salted water (sw SAUCE). Decorate with with Cre sauce (see Surround am sauce Surround with Cream crofftons fried crotons fried in butter. snouLrfs A I'arlesienne. oEUFs Scrambled OEUFS BROUILLF-S eg5 li i l'arlsienne, Scrambled eggs garlic-flavoured eggs with L'ARLSIENNE the eggs with garlic-flavoured L'ARL6$eNI.rE Scramble the - Scramble courgettes in butter. FONDUE). Cook courgettes Tomato fondue (see FONDUE). pulp and mix the and rnix Halve rernove the the chopped pulp Halve them, remove the pulp Fill the halved with the scrambled halved courgette skins with scrambled eggs. FiJI a buttered fireand put them in a flrethe scrambled the scramblod egg mixture and grated Pannesan proof with grated Parmesan and proof dish. and melted melted dish. Sprinkle with (see with TomaLO Tomato sauce (see butter. the top. top. Surround Surround with butter. Brown the SAUCE). nnourrfs .4, I'armoricaine. OEUFS oELtFs BROUILLS Scranbled eggs i l'armoricaine. &rambled L'ARMoRIcArrqE L'ARMORICAINE - Arrange the scrambled eggs in a deep dish, it of Lobster Lobs/er or or Sptny lobster lobs 1er a salpicon of alternating with with a r\T~ .. rr;n l'amricaine Put slices of lobster or spiny l'amdricaine (see LOBSTER). sauce (see with Americut and surround American sauce surround wth lobster on on the eggs and SAUCE). sAUCE). lux snounr6s AUX oEUFs BROUILLS Scrambled Scrambled eggs with artichokes. OEUFS artichoke ARTIcHAUTFMix the scrambled eggs with cooked artichoke hearts, hearts, sliced or diced, and saut6ed in butter. butter. in butter. saut6ed in sliced artichoke artichoke hearts Garnish with with sliced hearts sauted butter, Garnish
ROY ALE RoyALE

EGGS
and bread bread cro0tons crotons fried fried in in butter. butter. Surround with conCOI')Surround with and

Velouti Velout sauce (see SAUCE) SA UCE) basod based on fish tish stock and mixed

centrated veal stock. Scrambled eggp eggs i !li la Bercy. oEUFs OEUFS BRoInLus BROUILLS A LA BERcY BERCY Scrambled the scrambled eggs in in a a deep deep dish. dish. Garnish Garnish with Arrange the chipolata. sausages, sausages, grilled grilled or cooked cooked in in butter. butter. Surround Surround chipolata Tomato sauce sauce (see SA UCE). SAUCE). with Tomato Scrambled eggs with clpes. cpes. oEUFs OEUFS BRounrfs BROUILLS lux AUX cipss CPES Scrambled Saut sliced cipes cpes rn in butter butter or or oil. Add them them to the scrambled scrambled Saut6 eggs. Arrange Arrange in a a deep dish, with the the cipes cpes in the middle. middle. eggs. Garnsh with wilh crofftons crotons fried fried in in butter. butter. Surround Surround with Garnish concentrated veal stock. Scrambled wlth chicken chcken livers. li 'II ers. oEUFs OEUFS snoulrr6s BROUlUS lux AUX Scrambled eggs with DE voLAILLE VOLAILLE - Heap the the scrambled scrambied eggs heated FOlES DE eggs on a heated Fotns disb. Garnish Gamish with wilh sliced slced chicken livers, livers, saut6ed sauteed in in butter dish. aod bound with with Demi-glace sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). Sprinkle Sprinkle and witb chopped parsley. parsley. with &rambled OEUFS nnoutufs BROUILLS cLAMART CLAMART eggs Clamart. oEUFs Scrambld eggs (see PEA). the eggs eggs with wilh Peas d Ia la frangaise franaise (see PEA). Garnish Garnish Mix the with more peas. eggs with witll crayfish. crayfisll. OEUFS BROUILLS AUX oEUFs snout,rfs Scrambled eggs (see CREVISSES - Prepare Prepare as as Scrambled eggs with shrimps shrimps (see eggs with fcnsvlssrs (se SAUCE). craynsh tails tads and SAUCE). and Nantua sauce (see below) using crayfish Scrambled egp'l'6chelle'. 'l'chelle'. onurs OEUFS BROUILLS 'L'CHELLE' sRoulrr,fs'L'fcHELLE' Scrambled cheese. Butter an an earthenware Prepare scrambled eggs with chcese. line it with cro tons of crustless crustless bread bread fried fried in cro0tons dish and and line bu Her. Cover thick slces truffles heated hea ted in in butter bu ner slices of truffies butter. Cover with thick and seasoned pepper. Put the eggs in the d/sh. dish. and pepper. and seasoned with salt and Smooth the surface and sprinkle with with grated cheese and surface and Brown the top. melted butter. Brown Scrambled l'espagnole I. OEUFS rnoutrrfs A eggs I'espagnole oEUFs BROUILLS Scrambled eggs L'ESPAGNOLE Fill halved, seeded seeded tomatoes, cooked in oil, L'EspAGNoH - FiU with scrambled and a sweet peppers. a salpicon of of sweet with scrambled eggs and Garnish with onioo fried in in oil. onion rings fried snourrEs A Scrambled OEUFS orurs BROUILLS eggs il I'espagnole Scrambled eggs L'ESPAGNOLE - Garnish with diced scrambled eggs eggs with Garnish the scrambled L'EsIAGNoLE a salpicon of sweet oil and mixed with a cookod in oi! tomatoes cooked pimentos. Top with onion in oil. fried in onion rings fried ,i. LA rA. snoutrrfs Scrambled eggs il! oEUFs BROUILLS n la forestibre. OEUFS Scrambled eggs fried FORESntRE scrambled eggs with morels fried the scrarnbled ronBsrGnr - Garnish the in lean bacon. diced lean bacon. Top chopped shallot shallot and and diced in butter with chopped with a Demi-glace sauce Surround wilh with Demi-glace with morels. Surround mound of morels. a mound (see SAUCE). (see wth chopped chopped parsley. SAUCE). Sprinkle with cEoRcETTE Scrambled oEUFs snoutnfs GEORGETTE Scrambled eggs Georgette. OEUFS potatoes. Scoop out the pulp Bake out three-quarters of the Bake large potatoes. with Crayfish tail and Crayfish lail Garnish with fill with with scrambled scrambled egg. Garnish and fiU Nantua (see CRAYFISH). ragofrt d la Nantua ...... lrllnlhIIPll1 eggs snounrfs AU lu ham or bacon. OEUFS oELtFs BROUILLS eggs with harn or bacon. Scrambled (OU BACON) JAMBON, AU LARD MAIGRE - Add 10 BICON)to the scrambled scrambled AULARD MATGRE (ou fried. Top eggs, and lightly lightly fried. ham or or bacon, bacon, blanched blanched and eggs, dced dicod harn with slices of lightly fried ham or or rashers of bacon. fried harn rnoutrrfs MASSENET MASSENET Scrambled Massenet. OEUFS oELtFs BROUILLS eggs Massenet. Scrambled eggs with diced artichoke hearts Gamish eggs with diced artichoke the scrambled scrambled eggs Garnish the garnish furlher further sauted rn a a limbale timbale and and garnish Arrange in in butter. butter. Arrange saut6ed in grcs, slivers of truffie, with small trufle, and and asparagus small slices of/ole gras, tips. concentrated veal stock. tips. Surround with conceotrated (various). OEUFS Scrambled mushroom ('IIar:loos). oEUFs eggs witll with musMooms Scrambled eggs mushBROUILLS Add sliced sliced or or diced diced mushsnouIrrfs AUX Ar-ix CHAMPIGNONS cHAMpIcNoNS - Add pepper, rooms, and pepper. and seasoned with salt and rooms, sauted saut6ed in in butter and 10 to the eggs. Surround mushrooms and and crotons. cro0tons. Surround Garnish with sliced musbrooms with concentrated veal stock. concentrated vcal A LA re Scrambled snourt.fs A i la la Nantua. Nanfua. OEUFS oEuFs 8ROUILLS Scrambled eggs with diced NANTUA scrambled eggs eggs wilh diced crayfish NANTUA -- Garnish the the scrambled ragofit d la la tails with Crayfish Crayfish lail tail ragot trufres. Decorate Decorate with tails and and tfllffies. Nantua truffies heated in in butter. Nantua and and sliced sliced trumes Scrambled normande. OEUFS snouI.rfs A LA rl eggs li i la la normande. oEUFs BROUILLS Scrambled eggs NORMANDE scrambled eggs Arrange the scrambled eggs in in a a flan flan case case baked baked NoRMANDE - Arrange garnished with with blind with shelled shelled mussels mussels bound bound with and gamshed blind and

with with cream. cream. Garnish Garnish with with oysters poached poached in in their their own liquid and and debearded, debearded, slivers of truffies truffies tossed tossed in in oil, oil, and
Surround with SAUCE). shrmps' tails in Shrimp sauce sauce (ser-, (see SA UCE). Surround wjth shrimps' crofftons crotons fried in butter, and Normande Normande sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SA UCE). panetit!:re. oeuFs OEUFS nnounrfs p,lNsrIiRE PANETIRE Scrambled eggs panetilre. Scramble Scramble the eggs and add mushrooms mushrooms and diced ham harn fried in butter. Hollow out a round round loaf, like a croustade. Butter the the inside inside and and brown brown lightly lightly in in the the oven. oyen. Fill FiU with wilh the scrambled eggs and sprinkle sprinkle with grated cheese and melted butter. Brown the top. Scrambled eggs Pamentier. Parmentier. oturs OEUFS nnounrfs BROUILLS IARMENTIER PARM'Ef','TIER Scrambted - Heap Heap the the scrambled eggs eggs on a heated heated plate and and garnish gamish with diced diced potatoes saut6ed sauted in butter butter and and rollod rolled in in meat with jelly. jelly. Sprinkle with chopped parsley. Es A &rambled eggs t la la perigourdine. onurs OEUl'S nnotrtt,t BROU1LLS r,c, LA Scrambled eggs pfntcounptxr as for Scrambled PRIGOURDINE - Prepare as Scrambled eggs Rossmf Rossini (see (see added to of foie gran gras and trufres truffles can be he added below). A salpicon of the scrambled eggs. Scrambled eggs with with potatoes. potatoes. oEuFs OEUFS BRouILLfs BROUlLLS Atx AUX Scrambled eggs poMMEs lt TERRE DE TERRE - Like Like Scrambled eggs eggs Parmentier. Parmentier. lt POMMES DE boiled in their skins, peeled, can also be made with potatoes boild saut6ed in butter. sliced, and sauteed butter. PRINcEssE Scrambled eggs eggs princess. oEUFs OEUFS nRoulrrfs BROUILLS PRINCESSE Scrambled asparagus tips Garnish the the scrambled eggs with asparagus tips simmered simmered Garnish timbale or in a a flan case baked butter. Arrange Arrange in a timhale baked blind. in butter. Top with wilh chicken breast cut into julienne strips and and bound (see SAUCE), and with slivers slivers of of with Suprme sauce (see with Suprdme sauce Surround with suprAme truffles tossed in butter. Surround suprme sauce. truffies A LA L.l RE1NE nenm eggp i t ]a la reine. Scrambled reine. oErJFs OEUFS snoulrrEs BROU1LLS Scrambled eggs a vol-au-vent case, alternating alternating in rows in a vol-au-vent case, Arrange the eggs in with Surround with with thick Ch/"cken Chicken purie (se PURE). PUREE). Surround (see SAUCE). Suprme sauce (sec A LA rA, snoullrfs eggs i oEUFs BROUILLS la la romaine. romaine. OEUFS Scrambled eggs ROMAINE RoMAINE - Scramble the eggs with grated Parmesan cheese. of leaf spinach cooked in butter Arrange butter and mixed Arrange on a bed bod ofleafspinach grated Parmesan Parmesan and with with anchovy anchovy fillets. tllels. Sprinkle with with grated melted butter. Brown the top. RossINI -oEUFs BROUILLS snourrfs ROSS1Nl Scrambled Rossini. OEUFS Scrambled eggs Rossini. ffan case baked a limhale timbale or in a a flan Arrange the eggs in a baked blind. gras and with slices of of foie gras and slivers of truffies heated Garnish witb Madeira-flavoured with concentra concentrated in butter. Surround with ln butter. Surround ted Madeira-fla voured SAUCE). Demi-glace sauce (see SA Demi-glace UCE). sRoulrrfs SAGAN SAGANoELtFs BROUILLS Scramble Scrambled eggs San. OEUFS Scrambled - Scramble in a in a a flan flan case a limbale timbale or in the eggs with cheese. Arrange in the brains dredged dredged in in Garnish with escalopes of brans baked blind. Garnish with slivers slivers of truffies in butter, and with of Iruffies flour and and sauted saut6ed in ftour butter, and with concentrated veal stock. butter. Surround wth heated in butter. sAINTSaint-Hubert. OEUFS oEUFs snoulrrEs SAINTScrambled eggs Saint-Hubert. Scrambled the scrambled scrambled eggs with game pur6e HUBERT HUBERT - Garnish the (see SAUCE), based on with Demi-glace sauce (sec bound with bound Demi-glace sauce concentrated game stock. spiny lobster lobster or with a a salpicon of lobster, lobster, spiny Scramblcd eggs with Scrambled DE HOMARD HoMAR"D nnounr6s AU AU SALPICON sALpIcoN DE other shellfish. OEUFS orurs BROUILLEs other (see (or LANGOUSTE Erc.) As Seramhled Scrambled eggs with shrimps (see r,rNcousrr ETC.) (DE - As with the shellfish shellfish indicated. Serve with a salpicon of the below) using a (se SA the wine. Finish with the with white wine. SAUCE) Cream sauce (see UCE) wilh particular shellfish. shellfish. to the the particular butter appropriate to butter ltx snoutnfs AUX with shrimps. OEUFS oEUFS BROUILLS Scranbled eggs with peeled shrimps' tails, heated in in butter, butter, ta to cREvETTEs - Add peeled with a mound of Garnish the top with a mound of the top the scrambled scrambled eggs. eggs. Garnish the (see sauce (see tails heated heatd in in butter butter or or in n Sh/'imp Shrimp sauce shrimps' tails shrimps' with crotons crottons fried fried in in butter. butter. Pour Pour a a SAUCE). Surround Surround with SAUCE). the eggs. ring of shrimp sauce sauce round the eggs. of shrimp lux TRUFFES-' TRUFFES oEUFS BROUILLS BRouuEs AUX Scrambled eggs with tnffls. OEUFS When manner. When in the usual manner. scrambled eggs eggs in the usual Prepare the scrambled Prepare the (Either diced and and tossed in butter. butter. (Either add the the trumes, truffies, diced tossed in cooked, add platter on a a warm platter or canned canned truffies can can be used.) Heap on fresh or
350 350

lrx

I.

II.

EGGS
and garnish cut to look garnish with with slices slices of of truffies truffies and crofitons crotons cut look like

with tarragon veal stock. stock. Decorate Decorate with tarragon-flavoured tarragon-fiavoured veal
leaves. leaves, blanched and well weil drained. eggs soubis6e EgS t la also called eggs i la Eggs la tripe, tripe, also la bechamd bchamel sou bise (hard-boiled). m TRIPE, souBIs6E (hard-boiJed). OEUFS LA u LA nEcrHMEL BCHAMEL SOUBISE onurs A rRrrr, A or thick slices. Cut hard-boiled eggs into quarters quarters or thick round round slices. Cut hard-boiled eggs into

wolves'teeth. wolves' teeth. S6vign s6vrcr.6 Svign eggs eggs (soft-boiled (soft-boited or or poached). poached). oEUFs OEUFS SVIGN Place each cooked egg on half Cover with half a braised lettuce. Coyer SuprAme Suprme sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Top each egg with a sliver of truffie. truffie. Eggs with shrimps I (shirred). shrimps 1 (shirred). oEUFS OEUFS AUX cREvErrss CREVETTES - Bake the dish with with I 1 tablespoon the eggs in in a a buttered buttered ovenproof dish shrimp tails. ta ils. Surround Surround with Shrimp sauce (see SAUCE). SA UCE). Eggs Eggs with shrimps shrimps tr II (soft-boiled (soft-boUed or poached). onurs OEUFS nux AUX cREvETTESCREVETTES- Line Line tartlets, tartlets, baked baked blind, blind, with shrimps blended blended on this with Shrimp sauce (see (see SAUCE). Arrange the eggs on mixture and and cover coyer with the sauce. sauce. Eggs with shrimps sbrimps III ID (cold). oEUFs OEUFS Aux AUX cREvErrps CREVETTES - Coat dariole moulds with fish fish aspic jelly je//y (see (see ASPIC). Line Line the sides with shrimps' tails. Pour over liquid jelly jelly to sbt set them. them. Place each mould. Fill with jelly jelly and Place a a soft-boiled egg in each chill chili on ice. Unmould Unmould the the eggs eggs onto onto grilled grilled cro0tons crotons spread spread with Shrimp butter BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). Arrange Arrange bUller (see (see BUTTER, in a crown. Garnish Garnish with diced potatoes and shrimps' tails, ta ils. dressed with mayonnaise strengthened strengthened with gelatine. gelatine. Decorate the top of each each egg egg with with three shrimps' shrimps' tails arranged to look like a plume. Surround Surround the cro0tons crotons with fish aspic aspic jelly. jelly.

@''%

dish. Coyer Soubise sauce Arrange in in a a pie pie dish. with Soubise sauce (see Cover with Arrange SAUCE). SAUCE). Sieve hard-boiled Verdier eggs (stuffed). OEUFS - Sieve hard-boiled orurs VERDIER foie gras. gras. Stuff Stuff the halves of egg yolks and mix with cooked cooked foie egg white with this mixture. mixture. layer of sliced onions cooked Arrange ina Arrange in a gratin gratin dish on a layer ofsliced in butter, blended with with I 1 tablespoon Bdchamel Bchamel sauce sauce (see in SA UCE), and seasoned curry. SAUCE), seasoned with curry. with bichamel Coyer with bchamel sauce sauce mixed mixed with with a a julienne julienne of Cover oven. truffies. Sprinkle Parmesan. Brown in a hot oyen. Sprinkle with Parmesan. oEUFs vIcroRIA Victoria eggs eggs (soft-boiled (soft-boited or poached). OEUFS VICTORIA Arrange the cooked eggs eggs in in puff pastry pastry cases lined lined with a of spiny lobster, or lobster, and truffies, bound with salpicon of salpicon slice of Victoria sauce each egg egg with a a slice sauce (see (see SAUCE). Top each lobster lobster and a slice of of truffie. truffie. la la Villeroi ViUeroi (soft-boiled (soft-boUed or or poached). poached). osuFs OEUFS ;, I-A. LA Eggs t eggs are used used for this this dish. Coat VILLEROI - Small cooked eggs vILLERoI with Villeroi sauce (see SAUCE) SA UCE) and leave to get cold. cold. Dip in in egg egg and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and fry. fry. Arrange in in a a crown. Garnish with fried parsley parsley and serve with Tomato Tomato sauce (see (see Garnish SAUCE). SAUCE). Eggs Zingaru (soft-boiled Eggs t b la Zingara (soft-boited or or poached). oeurs OEUFS A ul LA - Arrange the cooked eggs on oval cro0tons crotons fried ZINGARA in butter and and covered covered with a thin slice slice of lean ham. ham. Coat in with Zingara sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE).
OMELETTE - The etymology etymology of this word is uncertain. uncertain. It OMELETTE may corrvption of may have have been been derived derived from amelette, a a corruption from amelette, alemette, derived from alemelle aleme//e or alumette. alumette. alemette, The The name ovamellita ova me//ita was was used by by the Ancient Ancient Romans for honey and cooked in an earthenware earthenware dish. dish. eggs beaten with honey This derivation seems more logical. Recipes for sweet (dessert) omelettes omelettes will be found at the end of this section. The recipe for basic omelettes omelettes appears appears under EGGS, Basic Basic egg egg dishes. Filled omelettes. OMELETTES rouRn6ns FOURRES - Omelettes, Omelettes, before omelettes. oMELErrrs being being folded, folded, can can be be filled filled with with various various mixtures mixtures (forcemeat, meat, pur6e, pure, salpicon), salpicon), as as indicated indicated in individual individual recipes. The garnish garnish should should be be hot, hot, and and folded folded carefully into into the omelette. omelette. Flat omelettes. omelettes. oMELErrEs OMELETTES pLATES PLATES - These are cooked in butter or other other fat, and made made flat fiat like a thick pancake. pancake. Garnished OMELETTES cARNIES GARNIES - The garnish, garnish, Garnished omelettes. omelettes. oMELETTES as indicated be added added while while indicated in individual recipes, can either be the or put put in in the the omelette omelette when when the eggs eggs are are being being beaten, or folding folding it. it. In In addition addition to to the the inside inside filling, a a little of the garnish is usually usually put on top of of the omelette. omelette. Agnes Sorel omelette. ounrnrrn OMELETTE AGNis AGNS soREL SOREL - Fill Fi]] the omelette with sliced sauted sliced mushrooms which have been saut6ed in with Chickm butter and and bound bound with Chicken purie pure (see (see PUREE). PURE). in butter Decorate the top with slices of pickled or smoked tongue. tongue. Boil down some sorne veal stock, add butter, and pour pour round the the omelette. - Add diced truffies to the eggs eggs during during Omelette Albina the omelette in the usual way and and fill with beating. Cook the PURE). Pour Velouti Velout sauce (see (see thick Chicken Chicken puree pure (see PUREE). cream round the omelette. omelette. SA UCE) mixed with cream SAUCE) I'alsacienne l'alsacienne - Cook the omelette in goose fat, Omelette i and fill with with braised. braised, well well drained drained sauerkraut. Cover Coyer the and and surround surround with DemiDemiomelette with thin slices of ham and glace sauce (see SAUCE). SA UCE). Anchovy omelette. oMELETTE OMELETTE ALrx AUX ANcHoIs ANCHOIS - Rub Rub the Anchovy fiUets of desalted desalted anchovy through a sieve, and and add to the fillets
351

Snow Snow eggs eggs (Nrcolas) (Nicolas)

Snow eggs. oEUFS OEUFS A r.r, LA Nucn NEIGE - Whisk Whisk egg whites and add sugar, as much much of the meringue sugar, as as for a a meringue. Take as mixture as 1 tablespoon will hold, which which will give them an as I egg shape, and drop spoonful spoonful by spoonful spoonful into a saucepan of boiling milk sweetened with with sugar and and flavoured flavoured with vanilla. Poach the eggs, turning them so they cook evenly. evenly. When they sieve. they are firm, drain in a fine sieve. Use the the milk left to make Custard Custard cream (see CREAMS). CREAMS). Leave Leave to cool. cool. Arrange pour the the custard custard over over them. them. Arrange the the eggs in a a dish dish and pour Eggp la soubise soubise (hard-boiled). (hard-boUed). osuFs OEUFS DURS A rA LA souBrsn SOUBISE Eggs i Arrange hard-boiled eggs on Onion soubise (see (see PUREE). PURE). Cover Coyer with Cream Cream sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SA UCE). Spanislt Spanish eggs - See See Eggs Eggs d I'espagnole. l'espagnole. Stanley OEUFS srANLEy STANLEY Stanley eggs eggs (soft-boiled (soft-boUed or poached). poached). oEUFs Arrange Arrange the cooked eggs in tartlet tarti et cases baked blind and and filled with Onion soubise (see with Curry (see PUREE). PURE). Cover Coyer with Curry sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Tarragon Tarragon eggs eggs (shirred). oruns OEUFS A r'nsrRl,c,oN L'ESTRAGON - Break the eggs into a buttered ovenproof dish containing I 1 tablebuttered ovenproof spoon tarragon-flavoured tarragon-fiavoured veal stock. Cook Cook until until the whites whites are set. Surround Surround with more more stock. Decorate Decorate with with blanched blanched tarragon. tarragon. Tarragon Tarragon eggg eggs, also called eggs eggs i la Chartres (soft-boiled (soft-boited or poached). OEUFS A r'nsrRacoN, L'ESTRAGON, A LA cHARTRES CHARTRES - Arrange Arrange poachd). oEUFS the the cooked eggs on cro0tons crotons fried in in butter. butter. Cover Coyer thern them with

EGGS
beaten eggs. eggs. Cook Cook the the omelette omelette as as usual. usual. Cut Cut desalted beaten place on top. anchovy fillets into thin strips and place Omelette Andr6-Theuriet Andr-Theoriet - Fill Fil! the omelette with morels Ia la crhtne. crme. Serve Serve garnished garnished with with asparagus asparagus tips tips lightly lightly d cooked in butter, butter, and with slivers slivers of of trufle trume tossed tossed in the the same same cooked Surround with SuprAme Suprme sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). butter. Surround omelette. oMELETTE OMELETTE ARcHIDUc ARCHIDUC - Add chopped Archduke omelette. fried in in butter and and seasoned seasoned with will paprika, paprika, onion, lightly frid beaten eggs before cooking. cooking. Garnish Garnish with to the seasoned beaten slivers of truffie surround with trume heated heated in in butter, butter, and and surround with a slivers paprika sauce. sauce. Omelette Argenteuil Argenteuilomelette with white - Fill the cooked omelette put I 1 or green asparagus tips lightly cooked in butter, and put Surround with Allemande tablespoon asparagus tips on top. Surround (se SAUCE). SAUCE). or Cream sauce (see sauce ot oMELETTE ALt( Articboke omelette. AUX ARTIcHAUTS ARTICHAUTS - Add Add to Artichoke omelette. OMELETTE eggs, when wh en beating, artichoke hearts hearts which have have been the eggs, saut6ed in sliced and half-cooked and sauted in butter. butter. Cook. Cook. half-cooked then then sliced Serve with artichoke hearts. of the. Garnish with a a few few of the. artichoke hearts. Serve Garnish with stock wit_h concentrated veal veal stock with a little little butter butter added. concentrated oMELETTES ALrx Omelette asparagns tips. Omelette with with asparagus tips. OMELETIES AUX poINTEs POINTES diced asparagus D'AspERGEs D'ASPERGES - Mix Mix diced asparagus tips, tips, which which have have been eggs. Garnish the cooked tossed in butter, into the beate,n beaten eggs. sprinkle with omelette with melted melted butter. omelette with asparagus tips and sprinkle oMELETTE Arrx Aubergine omelette. Allbergine omelette. OMELETTE AUX AUBERcmrs AUBERGrNES - Place and surslices of fried fried aubergine on on the the cooked cooked omelette and (se SA round with Tomato sauce (see SAUCE). with Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce or TomalO UCE). oMELETTE AU BAcoN Bacoo BACON tablespoons Bacon omelette. omelette. OMELETTE - Add 4 tablespoons (* cup) diced bacon, lightly fried friod in butter, (t butter, to the beaten egg. with thin thin rashers Garnish the the cooked omelette with Garnish rashers of cooked bacon. bacon. la Brcy Add chopped chopped fines to the B6rcy - Add Omelette la fines herbes to grilled or cooked omelette with beaten egg. the cooked with grilled egg. Garnish Garnish the beaten sausages, and and surround surround with Tomato saut6ed chipolata chipolata sausages, sauted Will Tomalo SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). la bigourdane bigourdane - Fil! Fill the the omelette with diced Omelette la (see gras. Serve sauce (see Serve with Madeira sauce truffles foie gras. truffies and and diced foic sAUCE). SAUCE). A LA r,c, MOELLE MosrLE - FIat. omelette. OMELETTE oMELETTE FiaI. Bone-marrow omelette. bone-marrow fat, cooked omelette omelette with slices of bone-marrow Garnish the cooked poached in salt water a little liquid meat water and drained. Spoon a jelly over each Marrow sauce each slice of marrow and and serve serve with Marrow jelly (see SAUCE). SAUCE). of bone-marrow bone-marrowfat Fill the omelette omelettewithasalpicon Fluffy. Fillthe with a salpicon of fat sauce. Garnish with with slices of marrow with marrow bound marrow sauce. bound with which have been poached in salted water and drained. Serve with marrow sauce. dicod boneFill the omelette omelette with diced boneOmelette i la boucbre bouchbreOmelette - FiJI jelly. Put poachod and Put and bound with liquid meat jelly. fat, poached marrow marrow fat, poached marrow marrow slices slices on on top, top, and and spoon spoon liquid a row row of poached a jelly over the the omelette. meat jelly small Brussels very small Omelette la bruxelloise bmxelloise - Cook Cook very Omelette la done. in salted water until three-quarters three-quarters do sprouts ne. Drain, dry, sprouts in sprouts into into beaten beate,n eggs eggs before and fry in in butter. Stir the the sprouts and fry butter. Stir Surround with with concentrated concentrated veal making the omelette. omelette. Surround ma king the stock. Omelette d la la Crcy. Cricy. Se Omelette Carroi Carrot omelette - See Add sliced sliced lux CPES ctprs - Add oMELETTE AUX Omelette with with cpes. cbpes. OMELETTE (which have been fried chopped frid in in butter or oil) and and chopped or oil) cpes clpes (which parsley to omelette with with Top the the cooked cooked omelette parsley to the the beaten beaten eggs. eggs. Top cpes. cipes. sauteed chicken chicken Fill the the omelette omelette with sauted chasseur Omelelte Omelette cbasseur - FiU Garnish the the cooked cooked sliced mushrooms. Garnish livers mixed mixed with with sliced livers Serve will with Chasseur Chasseur same ingredients. ingredients. Serve omelette with the the same omelette with (se SAUCE) chopped parsley. and sprinkle sprinkle with chopped SAUCE) and sauce (see Fill the omelette with with braised the omelette Omelette la h chtelaine cMtelaine - Fil! veal stock. stock. concentrated veal chestnuts bound with concentrated and mashed chestnuts and (see SAUCE). SAUCE). with Cream Cremn sauce (see Serve Serve with
Omelette with wlth chervil. chenil.
oMELETTE OMELETTE AU AU cERFEUIL CERFEUIL BULBEIx BULllEUX -

Add chopped turnip-rooted chervil, cooked in butter, and

sautEed briskly sauted briskly in in butter butter and and bound bound with with concentrated Demi-glace sauce sauce (se(sc SAUCE). Top the cooked omelette serve with with will chicken chic ken livers, livers, as as above, above, and and serve with MadeiraMadeira(se SAUCE). SAUCE). flavoured Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see Omelette Choisy - Fill Fil! the the omelette with with Chffinade Chiffonade of of with Cream sauce lettuce lelluce with wilh crearn cream (see LETTUCE). LETTUCE). Serve wilh (see SAUCE). with Peas Omelette Clamart - FiU Omelette Fill the the omelette omelette with Peas d Ia la (see PEA) franaise (see PEA) keeping keeping the the mixture mixture rather rather thick. frangaise When serving, serving, put I 1 tablespoon of the mixture mixture on top of of the omelette. cooked omelette. Curgette Courgette omelette. oMELETTE OMELETTE ALIX AUX couRcnrrrs COURGETfES - Flat. FiaI. saute in butter. Cut Cut the the courgettes in in thin slices and and saut butter. Beat the eggs with chopped parsley, parsley, season with salt and pepper, pepper, and pour over the marrows marrows in the pan. courgettes sauted Flufy. saut6edin Fluffy. Fill the the omelette omelette with with the the diced courgettes in butter butter or oil and mixed with chopped chopped parsley. parsley. t la Crcywith2 Omelette Crey - Fill the omelette with 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) thick (s* PUREE). (3 thick Carrot CarrOI purie pure (sec PURE). Decorate the top with a a row of sliced carrots carrol~ cooked in butter. butter. Serve (see SAUCE). wth Cream Cremn sauce (see SAUCE). with cnoOroNs Omelette with crofttons. croBtons. oMELETTE OMELETTE lux AUX CROTONS FiaI. - F/ar. Fry chopped parsley Fry diced bread in butter. Beat the eggs with with chopped parsley omelette as a pancake. cro0tons. Make over the croltons. and pour pour over Make the omelette pancake. Fluffy. Fry diced bread in butter butter and add to the eggs while while parsley. Make chopped parsley. them, together beating beating them, together with with chopped Make the omelette in the usual way. seasoned sliced mushrooms, fried Omelette Diane Add seasoned fried - Add Fill the omelette omelette with a salpicon egg. Fill in butter, to to the beaten egg. winged game, and truffles, truffies, bound of partridge partridge or any other winged (se SAUCE) based Velouti sauce sauce (see with concentrated Velout with concentrated based on (q.v.). Garnish the cooked game fumet (q.v.). a row cooked omelette with a gamefumet Demi-glace in butter. butter. Serve Serve with slices tossed of trufre of trume slices tossed in with Demi-glace (se SAUCE) based based on game stock. sauce (see Make a a flat oMELETTE DIPLOMATE DIrLoMATE - Make Diplomat omelette. omelette. OMELETTE Diplomat of lobster lobster and and a layer layer of 3 eggs. eggs. Co Cover omelette with with 3 ver with with a (soe SAUCE) Bichamel sauce sauce (see with Bchamel trufre salpicon salpicon bound bound with truffle flavoured with lobster butter and brandy. f1avoured it omelette, keeping it Top this omelette omelette with another 3-egg omelette, Top (se SAUCE) f1avoured flavoured saace (sec Mornay sauce Cover with with Mornay creamy. Cover creamy. grated Parmesan and Parmesan and Sprinkle with with grated lobster butter. with lobster butter. Sprinkle with a hot hot oven. in a butter, and and brown in melted butter, meltcd in salted cauliflower flowerets Ihr Barry Barry Omelette Du flowerets in - Boil cauliflower in the the eggs, fry in in clarified clarified butter. butter. Pour Pour in Drain, and and fry water. Drain, water. and with salt salt and chervil and and seasoned seasoned with beaten will with chopped chopped chervil beaten pepper. Make pancake omelette omelette and and serve serve with with Cream Make a a pancake pepper. (sw SA SAUCE). sauce (see UCE). with duxelles Fill the la duxelles duxelles - Fill the omelette with Omelette la Omelette (q.v.) mixture to added. Serve Serve has been been added. diced harn ham has which diced (q.v.) to which (se SAUCE). SAUCE). Demi-ghce sauce (see tomato-flavoured Demi-glace with tomato-flavoured eg$ 3 3 tablefermilre Add to the beaten eggs to the I la h fermire Omelette - Add (q.v.) of (scant cup) paysanne (q.v.) of vegetables cup) of of a a paysanne spoons (seant spoons lightly fried onions and celery, celery Iightly sliced carrots, on composod of sliced composed ions and pepper, and and chopped seasoned with with salt. salt, pepper, in butter butter and and seasoned in parsley. (3 tablespoons) lean harn ham lightly lightly tablespoons) diced diced lean 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 Fry 2 flat pour the make a a flat mixture over, over, and and make the egg egg mixture in butter, butter, pour in omelette. omelette. shredded Fill the the omelette with shredded Omelette la la flamande Omelette - Fill (U.S. Belgian in butter and and bound Belgian endive) endive) cooked cooked in chicory (U.S. chicory (se SAUCE). SAUCE). Crean sauce (see with cream. cream. Serve Serve with with Cream keeping it it Make a a creamy omelette, kecping Feydeur creamy omelette, Omelette Feydeau - Make (se PURE). purie (see PUREE). Mushroom pure rather liquid. liquid. Fill Fill with with Mushroom rather

some sorne choppod chopped chervil, chervil, to the beaten beaten eggs. Chicken OMELETTE AUx AUX FoIEs FOIES DE VoLATLLE VOLAILLE Chic ken liver live!' omelette. omelette. oMELETTE Fill the omelette with sliced chicken livers livers which which have have been

* I

352 352

EGGS EGGS
as AU HOMARD HoMARD -- Prepare Prepare as oMELETTE AU Lobster omelette. omelette. OMELETTE Lobster (see below), salpicon of of lobster lobster a salpicon using a omelette (see below), using Shrimp omelette Shrimp (se SAUCE). SAUCE). bound with with Lobster sauce sauce (see bound diced Add to beaten eggs eggs diced to the the beaten I la la lorraine lorraine -- Add Omelette Omelette and shredded Gruyre Gruydre cheese, cheese, and saut6ed in lean bacon sauted in butter, butter, shredded lean Make a a fiat flat omelette. omelette. chopped spring spring onion. onion. Make chopped diced trufHes truffies with diced Beat the the eggs eggs with Forest -- Beat Omelette Louis Forest Omelette Louis one of of 2 fiat flat omelettes. omelettes. Spread Spread one in butter, and make make 2 cooked cooked in butter, and gras sauted cover saut6ed in in butter, butter, and and cover with slices slices of them them with of freshfoie gras I tablespoon tablespoon conconSpoon over over 1 with with the second omelette. omelette. Spoon the second veal stock, stock, and and sprinkle sprinkle Madeira-flavoured veal centrated, centrated, Madeira-fiavoured (see BUTTER, butters). with BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). with Noisette lfoisette butter butter (see finely Add to to the the beaten beaten eggs eggs finely Omelette la lyonnaise lyonnaise -- Add Onelette i la parsley. choppod parsley. frid in in butter, and chopped chopped onions, lightly butter, and lightly fried chopped onions, a few few drops drops Make on the the omelette omelette a Make a a fiat flat omelette. omelette. Sprinkle Sprinkle on pour over pan, and it Noisette Noisette ofvinegar same pan, and pour over it heated in in the of vinegar heated the same (see BUTTER, butter butters). butter (see BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). Omelette omelette with with a a salpicon salpicon of of Fill the the omelette Omelette Maintenon Maintenon -- Fill Veloutd sauce chicken, bound with with Velout sauce chicken, truffies, and mushrooros, mushrooms, bound truffies, and (see SAUCE) omelette creamy creamy (see Keep the the omelette with cream. cream. Keep diluted with SAUCE) diluted (see SAUCE) SAUCE) when Bdchamel sauce sauce (see with Bchamel it. Cover Cover with when cooking cooking il. grated Pannesan melted with and melted Parmesan and with grated onion, sprinkle sprinkle with with onion, butter, oven. the oven. in the and brown brown in butter, and pieces of into Omelette of beef beef into left-over pieces Cut left-over i la la mnagre m6naglre -- Cut Omelette quantity of dice of diced diced Add an an equal equal quantity butter. Add in butter. dice and and fry fry lightly lightly in on ion, also eggs with with chopped chopped Beat the the eggs in butter. butter. Beat onion, also cooked cooked in pepper, mix parsley, mix with with the the other other parsley, season salt and and pepper, season with with salt ingredients, a fiat flat omelette. omelette. make a ingredients, and and make Omelette in oil. oil. Fry Fry diced diced aubergines in Mishal. Fry Fry diced diced aubergines Omelette Mistral. pinch tomatoes parsleyand and aa pinch chopped parsley add chopped lightly in in butter, butter, add tomatoes lightly of to Add this this mixture mixture to garlic, and mix with with the the aubergines. aubergines. Add and mix of garlic, the flat omelette. omelette. make aa fiat beaten eggs eggs and and make the beaten Omelette of salpicon of the omelette omelette with with aa salpicon Fill the Monselet -- Fill Omelette Monselet artichoke with slivers Garnish with slivers artichoke hearts hearts and d la la crme. crime. Garnish and truffies truffies of with Madeira-fiavoured Madeira-flavoured of truffies in butter. Serve with trufres heated heated in butter. Serve Demi-glace (see SAUCE). Demi-glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Omelette gratod horsehorsewith grated Beat the the eggs eggs with Onelette Montbry Montbry -- Beat radish, parsley, and seasoning. and seasoning. radish, chopped spring onions, onions, parsley, chopped spring Make salpicon of of celeriac celeriac one with Make 2 with aasalpicon 2 fiat flat omelettes. omelettes. Spread Spread one bound (se SAUCE) and seasoned seasoned with with SAUCE) and Creun sauce sauce (see bound with with Cream paprika. light paprika. Cover Spoon light the second second omelette. omelette. Spoon Cover with with the Mornay grated (see SAUCE) with grated over them, them, sprinkle sprinkle with Mornay sauce sauce (see SAUCE) over Parmesan grill or under the the grill or melted butter, and brown brown under Parmesan and and melted butter, and in hot oven. in a a hot oven. Omelette Add to to the Aux MORILLES MoRILLTS - - Add the oMELETTE AUX with morels. morels. OMELETTE Omelette witb eggs (while beating in butter, and sauteod in butter, and morels sauted them) morels eggs (while beating them) chopped parsley. Make Make aa fiat flat omelette. omelette. chopped parsley. Omelette Aux MORILLES MoRJLLES oMELETTE AUX la crme. crbme. OMELETTE Onelette with with morels moreb i la morels d la Ia crme crime and and, with morels A LA ta cRME cninrm -- Fill Fill the the omelette omelette with serve (see SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). serve with Cream sauce with Cream Omelette yolks with tablespoons Mix 66egg egg yolks with 22tablespoons Omelette mousseline mousseline -- Mix (3 pepper. Add Add (3 tablespoons) with salt salt and and pepper. and season season with tablespoons) cream cream and the Make aa mixture.Make fold into into the themixture. the stiffiy whisked whites whitesand and fold stifry whisked fiat flat omelette. omelette. Mushroom Add cHAMPIGNoNS - - Add Aux CHAMPIGNONS omelette. OMELETTE oMELETTE AUX Mu$room omelette. 2 (3 tablespoons) saut6ed sliced mushrooms, mushrooms, sauted tablespoons) sliced 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 in and Make aa fiat flat omelette omeletteand eggs. Make in butter, to the the beaten beaten eggs. butter, to decorate slices. row of mushroom slices. of mushroom decorate with with aa row Omelette with Flat. Beat Beat the theeggs eggs with nanc6ienne -- Flat. Omelette i la la nancienne chopped ion lightly parsley. andchopped chopped parsley. lightly fried fried in in butter, butter, and chopped on onion Make pudding, lightly lightly slices of of black black pudding, Make 2 Put slices 2 fiat flat omelettes. omelettes. Put fried second.Pour Pour withthe thesecond. I omelette omelette and and cover cover with frid in in butter, butter. on on1 over sprinkle with with stock, and and sprinkle vealstock, over them them concentrated concentrated veal Noisette (see BUTTER, buners). BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). Noisette butter butter (see Fluffy. and onion and fried chopped choppedonion with lightly lightly fried Flufy. Beat Beat the the eggs eggs with chopped pudding. pieces of parsley. Fill fried black black pudding. with pieces offried chopped parsley. Fill with Serve little butter butter has has whichaa!ittle vealstock stockto towhich Serve with with boiled-down boiled-down veal been beenadded. added.

Omelette Feydeau Feydeau

Place a row of the cooked cooked omelette. omelette. eggs on on the Place a row of soft-boiled soft-boiled eggs (see SAUCE) Cover Mornay sauce with a mixed with SAUCE) mixed a sauce (see Cover with witth Mornay juliennc julienne of grated Parmesan with grated Parmesan and and of truffies. trufres. Sprinkle Sprinkle with brown the top. Omelettes aux Add to to the the beaten beaten eggs, eggs, herbes fines herbes aux fines - Add chopped or parsley, chervil, spring onion onion or and spring chervil, tarragon, tarragon, and chopped parsley, chives. There make herbs to to make of these these herbs enough of There should should be be enough chives. the omelette green. Omelette leaf with leaf Fill the the omelette omelette with la florentine florentine Omelette i la - Fill spinach cooked sauce light Mornay Mornay sauce with a a light cooked in in butter. butter. Serve Serve with (see (see SAUCE). Sprinkle grated Parmesan Parmesan and and brown brown with grated Sprinkle with quickly. quickly. Omelette (3 tableforestilre Add 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablei la la forestire - Add spoons) diced lean bacon, fried in butter, to the the beaten eggs. eggs. bacon, fried butter, to Fill the have been sauteed in in Fill the omelette with with morels morels which which have been sauted butter, veal stock, stock, and and sprinkled sprinkled butter, bound bound with with concentrated veal with parsley. Serve has with veal veal stock stock to to which which has chopped parsley. Serve with with chopped been little butter. been added added a a little Omelette gasconne eggs diced diced Add to to the the beaten beaten eggs i la la gasconne - Add unsmoked ham, lightly fried frid in in butter, ham, thinly thinly sliced sliced onions onions lightly butter, chopped garlic and parsley. Make a flat omelette. omelette. chopped garlic and parsley. a fiat Omelette Add grecEre Add to eggs chopped chopped to the la grecque the beaten beaten eggs i la onion pimentos. lightly fried fried in in butter, butter, and and diced diced sweet sweet pimentos. onion lightly Make layer of mutton hash hash Make 2 2 fiat flat omelettes, spreading a a layer of mutton omelettes, spreading between garlic-flavoard Tomato Tomato sauce sauce with garlic-fiavoured between them. them. Serve Serve with (see parsley and (see SAUCE) and SAUCE) and sprinkle with with chopped chopped parsley and sprinkle Noisette (see BUTTER, butters). Noisette butter butter (see BUTTER, Compound Compotmd butters). Ham As Bacon Bacon omelette, omelette, orr,rprsrrE AU Ham omelette. AU JAMBON JAMBoN -- As omelette. OMELETTE using using diced diced lean lean ham. ham. Omelette UX JETS DE HOUBLON HouBLoN AUx JETs DE with bop hop shoots. shoots. OMELETTE oMELETTE A Omelette with - FiU hop shoots shoots la crme. crime. Serve Serve with witb Fill the the omelette d la omelette with with hop Cream (see SAUCE). Cream sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Hungarian rrc. HONGROISE HoxcnoIm -- Fry oMELETTE A LA Fry Hungarian omelette. omelette. OMELETTE diced ham lightly butter. Add Add an an equal equal in butter. diced unsmoked unsmoked lean lean ham lightly in quantity quantity of with fried in in butter. butter. Season Season with of diced diced onions, onions, also also fried paprika. paprika. Add eggs and and make make a a Add this to the the beaten beaten eggs mixture to this mixture fiat (see SAUCE). pancake. Serve Hungariut sauce SAUCE). flat pancake. sauce (see Serve with with Hungarian Japanese A LA u JAPONAISE rlpoNArsn -- Fill Fill the the oMELETTE Japanese omelette. omelette. OMELETTE omelette in butter butter and and cooked in omelette with artichokes cooked with Chinese Chinese artichokes sprinkled (seo parsley. Serve with Cream Crearn sauce sauce (see sprinkled with chopped parsley. Serve with with chopped SAUCE). sAUCE). Omelette jardini&re -- Cook turnips, French French Cook carrots, carrots, turnips, Omelette la }r jardinire beans, potatoes, etc. peas, potatoes, stock. Drain, Drain, and and fry fry etc. in in water water or or stock. beans, peas, lightly make a a fiat flat Add to beaten eggs eggs and and make lightly in in butter. to the the beaten butter. Add omelette. and caulicauliwith cooked cooked asparagus asparagus tips tips and omelette. Garnish Garnish with fiower (se SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). serve with with Cream Creon sauce flower fiowerets, flowerets, and and serve Omelette jurassienne -- Add diced lean lean bacon, bacon, Add scalded, scalded, diced Omelette I la la jurassienne ions to lightly to the the sprlng on onions lightly fried frid in in butter, and chopped chopped spring butter, and beaten rel which has been with sor sorrel which has been beaten eggs. Fill the the omelette omelette with eggs. Fill cooked in butter. cooked in butter. Kidney ALrx ROGNONS RocNoNs - Saut Saut6 diced diced oMELETTE AUX Kidney omelette. omelette. OMELETTE calfs with MadeiraMadeirain butter and bind bind with calfs or or lamb's lamb's kidneys kidneys in butter and fiavoured, (se SAUCE). Demi-glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE). flavoured, concentrated concentrated Demi-glace

353 353

EGGS EGGS
poundedparsley parsleyand togetherwith with pounded andchervil. chervil.Make Makea afiat together flat omelette. omelette. poroNArsn- Fill Polishomelette. omelette. OMELETTE oMELETTEALA r,c,POLONAISE Polisb the - Fillthe omelette with withmutton muttonhash hashbound boundwith withDemi-glace Demi-glacesauce omelette sauce (seeSAUCE). SAUCE).Garnish Garnish with withTomato Tomatofondue (seeFONDUE). (see fondue (see FONDUE). Sprinkle with parsleyand withchopped choppodparsley andserve Sprinkle withTomato Tomatosauce servewith sauce (seeSAUCE). SAUCE). (see ponrucxg - - Fill Porfirgueseomelette. omelette. OMELETTE oMELETTEALA Portuguese r,l PORTUGAISE Fill theomelette omelettewith (seeFONDUE) with Tomato Tomatofondue the FONDUE)and andserve serve fondue(see (saSAUCE). withTomato Tomato sauce sauce (see SAUCE). with Potato omelette omelette - - See Potato SeOmelette Omelette Parmentier. Parmentier. pRrNcEssE- Add Princess omelette. omelette. OMELETTE Princess oMELETTE PRINCESSE green - Add green asparagus tips tips cooked cooked in inbutter asparagus butterto tothe the beaten beaten eggs. eggs.Garnish Garnish with truffie with trufre slices withSuprme slices heated heatedin in butter butterand andserve serve with SuprAme (seeSAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). sauce provengale-- Cook Omelette i la la provenale peeled, seeded, Omelette Cook peeled, seeded,and anddiced diced tomatoes in in butter tomatoes butter or oroil. oil.Season pepper and Season with with salt saltand and pepper andaa pinch of garlic. Beat pinch of garlic. poundedparsley theeggs parsley and Beat the eggs with with pounded and makeaa fiuffy make fluffy omelette, omelette, filling fillingit itwith with the thetomato tomato mixture. mixture. Omelette Omelette i la ln romaine. romaine. Fry Fry chopped chopped onion onion lightly lightlyin inbutter butter parsley. Make and and add add chopped chopped parsley. Make 22 fiat flat omelettes. omelettes. Spread Spread one with one with leaf leaf spinach (see spinach cooked cooked in in Noisette Noisettebutter butter (see BUTTER) and BUTTER) and mixed mixed with with diced diced anchovy anchovyfillets. fillets. Cover with Coverwith the second second omelette. the omelette, (see SAUCE) Spoon Spoon Mornay Mornay sauce sauce (see SAUCE) over over the the omelettes, omelettes, grated Parmesan sprinkle sprinkle with Parmesan and with grated and melted meltod butter, butter, and and brown brown grill or under under the the grill or in in aa hot hot oven. oven. Omelette Omelette Rossini Rossini -- Add Add aa salpicon grasand salpicon of of foie and foie gras truffies trufles to to the the beaten beaten eggs. eggs. Garnish Garnish the flat omelette the fiat omelette with with slices gras and slices offoie oflore gras and slivers of truffies. with Madeiraslivers of trufres. Serve Servewith Madeirafiavoured (see SAUCE). flavoured Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Omelette Omelette i la ls rouennaise rouennaise -- Fil! Fill the the omelette omelette with with duck duck liver pur6e. Serve liver pure. Serve with with red red wine, wine, boiled boiled down down and and blended blended jelly and with with meat meat jelly and butter. butter. Omelette Omelette la royale royale -- Make i la Make aa small small omelette omelette using using eggs eggs mixed mixed with with truffie pur6e and truffie pure fill it and fill it with with a a ragot ragofrt of of cock'scock'scombs combs and and kidneys, kidneys, mushrooms, mushrooms, and and truffies, trufres, bound bound with with Velout Velouti sauce sauce mixed mixed with with cream. cream. Make Make aa second, second, larger larger omelette omelette with with eggs eggs mixed mixed with with fresh fresh cream cream and and seasoned seasoned with pepper. Fold with salt salt and and pepper. Fold it it over over the the smaller smaller omelette omelette and and garnish with garnish with small small slices gras and slices of of foie and slivers slivers of of truffies. trufres. /ore gras Serve Serve with port-flavoured Suprme with port-fiavoured (see SAUCE). SuprAme sauce SAUCE). sauce (see Omelette t la la Saint-Flour Omelette Saint-Ftour -- Add Add to to the the eggs, eggs, while while beating beating them, them, chopped chopped onions onions and and scalded, scalded, diced diced bacon, bacon, both both lightly fried frid in in lard. lard. Make Make 2 flat omelettes. 2 fiat omelettes. Spread Spread one with one with a a layer ofbraised, of braised, mashed cabbage cabbage and and cover cover with with the the second second omelette. omelette. Serve Serve with (ser-, SAUCE). with Tomato Tomato sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Omelette Onelette i la ta Saint-Hubert Saint-Hubert -- Fill Fill the the omelette omelette with with a a pure puree of game-meat bound of game-meat bound with with thick Demi-glace sauce thick Demi-glace sauce (see (see SAUCE) based based on on concentrated game game stock. stock. Garnish Garnish with sliced mushrooms lightly fried frid in in butter butter and and serve serve with with demi-glace demi-glace sauce. sauce. Omelette Omelette witb with salsify salsify and ad Brussels Bnsseb sprouts, sprouts, caUed called i la la maraicbre. maralchlre. OMELETTE oMELETTE AUX ALtx SALSIFIS sALsIFIs ET ET AUX Atx CHOUX cHottx DE DE BR UXELLES, DITE BRTxELLES, nrrs A LA r-l MARACHRE umdcsitnr -- Slice Slice salsify, salsify, cook cook in in court-bouillon, court-bouillon, cut cvt into into dice, dice, toss toss in in butter, butter, and and bind bind with with thick thick Velout Velouti sauce. sauce. Fill Fill a a fiuffy fluS omelette omelette with with this this and and garnish with with small small potatoes and and Brussels Brussels sprouts sprouts sauted saut6od in in butter. Serve with concentrated butter. Serve with concentrated Demi-glace (see Demi-glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE) to to which which butter butter has has been been added. added. Omelette de (accordiry to Omelette de Savarin Savarin (according to Frdric) Fred6ric) Phil6as - Philas Gilbert relates relates that that Fr6d6ric, Frdric, chef chef de Gilbert de cuisine cuisitu to to an an archbishop, archbishop, many discussions discussions with with the the directew directeur de had many de la la table, table, about about Frdric's Lenten Lenten mortification mortification dish Fr6d6ric's dish which which was was an' an omelette omelette filled with with soft soft roes roes and and tunny tunny fish. fish. filled The roes roes were were cut cut into into thin thin slices slices and and cooked cooked meunire. The it la lameuniire. The tunny tunny was was dried dried in in a a cloth, cio th, cut cut into into a a coarse The coarse salpicon, salpicon, seasoned, and and simmered simmered in butter. The The eggs eggs were beaten seasoned, in butter. were beaten
354 3s4

Cheese mousseline mousseline omelette omelette Cheese

Omelette i la Ia Nantua Nantua -- Fill Fill the the omelette omelette with with crayfish crayfish tails tails Omelette bound with (se SAUCE). with Nantua Nantua sauce sattce (see SAUCE). Garnish Garnish with with bound crayfish tails tails and and slivers slivers of of truffies. truffies. Serve Serve with with the the sauce. sauce. crayfish Omelette I la ln nioise nigoise -* Mix Mix the the eggs eggs with with Tomato Tomato fondue Omelette fondue (see FONDUE), FONDUE), chopped parsley, and chopped parsley, pinch of garlic. and a a pinch of garlic. (see Make a flat omelette a fiat omelette and garnish with and garnish with anchovies anchovies arranged arranged in in Make pattern. Sprinkle a criss-cross criss-cross pattern. (see Sprinkle with with Noisette Norsette butter butter (see a BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). but ters). BUTTER, i la la normande -- Fill Fill the the omelette omelette with with a a ragot ragofit Omelette of shrimps' shrimps' ta tails and mushrooms mushrooms bound bound with vith Normande Normande of ils and (set', SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). Garnish Garnish with with debearded debearded oysters oysters sauce poached in in their their own own liquid, liquid, and and slivers slivers of of truffies. trufles. Serve Serve poached with normande sauce. with Okra omelette omelette i la h crole. crole. OMELETTE oMELETTE AUX Arrx GOMBOS c,oMB6 A LA LA Okra cn6or-u Add to the eggs, while beating them, them, diced diced on CROLE ions, onions, - Add peeled and and diced diced sweet sweet pimentos both of of which peeled which have have been been - both in butter parsley. Fill and chopped chopped parsley. Fill the cooked in the omelette omelette - and with okra cooked cookod in in butter and and mixed mixed with with Tomato Tomato fondue with fondue (see FONDUE) fiavoured flavoured with a a pinch of garlic. Serve (see FONDUE) Serve with with (see Tomato sauce SAUCE). Tomato (see Omelette i la parisiennechoppod onion and chopped Omelette parisienne - Add chopped chopped mushrooms, saut6ed in in butter, butter, to to the mushrooms, both both sauted the beaten beaten eggs. Cover the cooked omelette with chipolata chipolata sausages cooked in concentratod veal in butter or grilled. Serve with concentrated veal stock stock to which a little little butter has been added. Omelette Omelette Parmenticr Parmentier Fry diced potatoes, cooked diced potatoes, cooked or - Fry raw, in butter and add chopped parsley. Mix them with the beaten a flat beaten eggs eggs for a fiat omelette or use use them them to to fi.!l fill a a fiuffy fluffy omelette. omelette. Omelette Omelette I la paysanne paysanne - Add to the beaten bea ten eggs chopped sorrel sorrel and and sliced sliced potatoes, potatoes, both both lightly lightly fried fried in in butter,

Omelette d la la nanc6ienne nancienne Omelette

EGGS EGGS
rd .Id mixed mixed with with thick thick cream. cream. The The tunny tunny and and roes roes were were mixed
Swiss Swiss omelette. oMELETTE OMELETTE A m LA surss SUISSE - Add Add Emmenthal Emmenthal to to the beaten beaten eggs. eggs. Make Make a a flat flat omelette. omelette. Omelette Omelette I la Talleyrad Talleyrand - Add Add to to the the beaten beaten eggs, eggs, diced diced of and seasoned seasoned with onions lightly lightly fried in in butter butter and with a a pinch pinch of

rn fi a a shrimp shrimp sauce sauce and and seasoned. seasoned. The omelette omelette was was filled
with this this sauce sauce and and garnished garnished with with slices of of truffie truffle or or circled with with with fried fried frogs' frogs' legs. legs. Omelette i la savoyarde savoyarde - Fry Fry sliced sliced potatoes potatoes and and add the the Omelette beaten eggs, eggs, mixed mixed with with shredded shredded Gruydre Gruyre to the pan. pan. Make beate,n flat omelette. omelette. a flat Sea-food omeleffe. omelette. oMELETTts OMELETfE Atx AUX FRUITS FRUITS DE MER - Beat Sea-food eggs with with chopped parsley parsley and chervil, chervil, season with salt the eggs make 2 flat omelettes. omelettes. and pepper, and make with a ragofrt ragot of of mussels, mussels, shrimps, cockles, cockles, and Cover one with other shellfish, shellfish, bound with Shrimp Shrimp sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE). Top other with the the second second omelette, omelette, and and pour pour Creon Cream sauce sauce (see (see with SAUCE) flavoured flavoured with with Shrimp Shrimp butter butter (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, SAUCE) grill or in a Glaze under the grill Compound butters) over them. G1aze Compound oven. hot oven. cRrvETTEs Shrimp omelette. oMELETTE OMELETTE AI-rx AUX CREVETTES Fill the Shrimp - Fill with Shrimp sltrimps' tails omelette with with peeled peeled shrimps' tails bound bound with omelette sauce (se (see SAUCE). Serve Serve with witb the same sauce. sauce omelette. oMELETTts OMELETTE A t'osstr,lE L'OSEILLE Sorrel omelette. - Add to the beaten (* cup) sorrel shredded chifonade shredded into a chiffonade eggs, 4 tablespoons (t and lightly lightly fried in butter. Make a flat omelette. omelette. Add to to the t'esplcNou -- Add omelette. OMELETTE L'ESPAGNOLE oMELETTE A Spanish omelette. or shredded shredded into beaten eggs, pimentos, diced diced or sweet pimentos, beaten eggs, sweet parsley, and julimne and a julienne strips and cooked in butter, chopped parsley, butter, chopped pinch of garlic. garlic. Make fiat omelette. Make a flat omelette. Spinach fpn*lnos -- Sweat Sweat leaf lux PINARDS oMELETTE AUX Spinach omelette. omelette. OMELETTE a flat spinach eggs. Make a and mix with the beaten eggs. spinach in butter and omelette. (crawfish omelette). OMELETTE A LA rA, Spiny lobster omelette (crawfisb otvrstsrrE LANGOUSTE of using a a salpicon of Make as as Shrimp omelette, omelette, using rixcousre -- Make spiny lobster bound flavoured with with Spiny Spdny a sauce sauce flavoured with a spiny lobster bound with lobster butter (see BUTTER, butters). BUTTER, Compound butters). Add Spring onion A LA r-l CIBOULETTE ctsouLETTE -- Add oMELETTE omelette. OMELETfE onim omelette. make a a flat flat chopped spring and make eggs and to the the beaten beaten eggs spring onions onions to omelette. omelette. Fill Sweetcom A LA Lq' CRME cRiil,fi -- Fill MAis oMELETTE AU AU MAs omelette. OMELETTE Sweetcorn omelette. (see CORN) serve the omelette and serve in cream CORN) and corn in crearn (see with Fresh corn omelette with (see SAUCE). with SAUCE). Cream sauce sauce (see wfih Cream Sweet Doux -Atlx PIMENTS PIMENTS DOUX pimento omelette. oMELETTE AUX omelette. OMELETfE Sweet pimento Add sweet pimentos shredded sweet coarsely shredded Add to to the the beaten beaten egg egg coarsely (green, in (green, yellow yellow or Fry the the flat flat omelette omelette in in oil. oil. Fry red) cooked cooked in or red) oil. oil. Sweet as PATATES- Prepare Prepare as potato omelette. Aux PATATESoMELETTE AUX omelette. OMELETfE Sweet potato Omelette potatoes fried in butter. fried in butter. sweet potatoes using sweet Parmentier using Omelette Parmentier

cheese cheese and cream

slices curry powder. powder. Make Make a flat flat omelette omelette and and garnish garnish with with slices and of calves' sweetbreads sweetbreads dipped in egg egg and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and sauce, saut6ed sauted in butter. Serve with with Creon Cream sauce. like roMATEs Tomato omelette. omelette. oMELETTE OMELETfE AUx AUX TOMATES Prepare Iike - Prepare garlic seasoning. seasoning. omit the but omit Omelette Omelette h h la provengale provenale but the garlic Add to to the Tmffie omelette. Truflle omelette. oMELETTE OMELETTE A(x AUX TRUFFEs TRUFFES the - Add Garnish diced truffies lightly beaten eggs, eggs, diced lightly tossed tossed in in butter. butter. Garnish Serve in butter. butter. Serve tossed in the flat omelette omelette with slivers of truffie tossed Madeira (see SAUCE) SAUCE) flavoured with Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce (see flavoured with with Madeira and trufle truffle essence. lu (Brillat-Savarin's recipe). recipe). OMELETTE olmlurrn AU Tunny omelette (Brillat-Savarin's Tunny omelette salted slightly salted roes in in slightly soft carps' roes blanch soft THoN THON - Wash and blanch up finely. Chop Chop up Drain and chop finely. boiling water for 5 minutes. Drain with a a small, small, together with the roes, roes, together add to the a piece a piece of tunny and add in best best butter, butter, mixture in the mixture Saut6 the shallot. Saut finely chopped shallot. finely chopped well. blending weil. parsley and chopped and chopped with parsley Heat a a second piece of butter with Heat dish a warmed warmed dish mixture onto onto a Pour this this mixture onions. Pour spring onions. spring juice, and and lemon juice, sprinkle with with lemon the omelette, omelette, sprinkle for the intended intended for tunny roe and and tunny the roe and add add the eggs and 12 fresh fresh eggs Beat 12 keep warm. warm. Beat keep and transfer omelette and long, thick thick omelette Make a a long, mixture to to them. them. Make mixture recipe is is also also This recipe very hot. hot. This dish. Serve Serve very it to to the the prepared dish. it dt cur. curd. called Omelette du called plNlcg6n -_ Beat Beat 3 3 6MELETTE PANACHE omelette. OMELETTE Two-colqrred omelette. Two-coloured pulp, and an make an puree or and make tomato pulp, or tomato spinach pure eggs with thick spinach semi-liquid. interior semi-Iiquid. keeping the the interior omelette, keeping omelette, put folding, put When folding, 6 eggs. eggs. When using 6 omelette, using Make another another omelette, Make lAhirc, Brown, Brown, wjfih White, it. Sur Surround inside it. omelette inside the smaller smaller omelette the round with (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Tomato sauce sauce (see or Tomato or egg a a to the the beaten beaten egg Add to la verdurire verduriire -- Add I la Omelette Omelette chopped in butter, butter, chopped tossod in lettuce tossed sorrel and and lettuce of sorrel chffinade of chiffonade and flat omelette omelette and Make a a flat parsley, chervil, tarragon. Make and tarragon. chervil, and parsley, (see BUTTER). BUTTER). butter (see Noisette butter sprinkle with with Noisette sprinkle hearts in in courtcourtartichoke hearts 2 diced diced artichoke Cook 2 vivcur -- Cook Omelette viveur Omelette Remove butter. Remove in clarified clarified butter. fry briskly briskly in draiq and and fry bouillon, drain, bouillon, diced, blanched, diced, tablespoons blanched, pan and fry 2 2 tablespoons and fry the pan from the from Drain. same butter. butter. Drain. celeriac in in the the same celeriac salt and and with salt seasoned with (3 oz.) beef seasoned g. (3 fillet of of beef oz.) diced diced fiUet Fry 75 75 g. Fry celeriac and celeriac artichokes and Put the the artichokes paprika, in the same same butter. butter. Put in the paprika, chopped eggs with with chopped pan and the eggs Beat the mix. Beat and mix. the pan into the back back into pan with other with the the other pour into the pan into the parsley and and pour and chervil chervil and parsley flat omelette. omelette. Make a a flat ingredients. ingredients. Make
D'ENTRE(DESSERT) OMELETTES. otvtsl"srrEs D'ENTREOMELETTES. OMELETTES SWEET SWEET (DESSERT) METSMETS _ filled omelettes, fiIled Three sm small I la la Clestine C6lestine -- Three Omelette ail omelettes, Omelette with dish, sprinkled sprinkled with row on on a a dish, in a a row arranged in with apricot jam, arranged with apricotjam, glazed in hot oven. oven. in a a hot sugar and and glazed fine sugar fine finely sugar, finely eggs with with sugar, Beat the the eggs la dijoonaise dijonnaise -- Beat Omelette i la Omelette flat Make 22 flat cream. Make and double double cream. macaroens, and crushed crushed macaroQns, pastry French pastry layer of of French thick layer one with with aa thick Spread One omelettes. omelettes. Spread ground almonds and almonds and (see CREAM) mixed with with ground cream crecon (see CREAM) mixed jam, and second with the the second and cover cover with blackcurrant jam, flavoured flavoured with with blackcurrant sides.Sprinkle Sprinkle and sides. the top top and on the meringue on Spoon meringue omelette. omelette. Spoon with andserve serve with glaze in hot oven, oven, and n aavery very hot with sugar,glaze with icing icing sugar, jam. blackcurrant blackcurrant jam. r-4, FRANGIPANE TnnNcIPANE - A LA oMBLETTES Frangipane omelettes. OMELETfES Frangipane omelettes. (scantti cup) sugar,22 finesugar, cup) fine with 33tablespoons tablespoons (seant Beat Beat 10 l0 eggs eggs with (6 dl. (6 and 1I dl. (3 tablespoons) melted butter, butter, and tablespoons tablespoons) melted tablespoons (3 pinchof salt' ofsalt. Add aasmall small pinch cup)cream. cream.Add tablespoons, scant 1tablespoons, seant I cup) put them themon on cooked, put When cooked, Make 0 small flatomelettes. omelettes. When Make ]l0 small flat of Frangipane Frangipane layet of with aa layer aa baking each with spread each sheet, spread baking sheet, sprinklewith with (seeCREAM), ends,sprinkle off the the ends, cut off fold,eut cream CREAM), fold, uecrrn (see oven. glaze in very hot hotoven. inaavery fine finesugar, sugar,and andglaze

Tomato Tomato omelette omeletteand andbacon bacon

355 355

EGGS EGGS

Norwegian Norwegian omelette omelette or or Baked Baked Alaska Alaska (Ro6ert (Robert Carrier\ Carrier)

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EGYPT EGYPT
Jam omelette. omelette. oMELETTE OMELETTE A(rx AUX coNFlruRns CONFITURES - Prepare Prepare like like Jam Jam and and fruit fruit omelelte omelelle (see (see below) below) replacing replacing the the fruit fruit by by Jam thick jam. jam. thick Jam and and fruit fruit omelette. omelette. oMELETTE OMELETTE A r,l LA coNT,ITURE CONFITURE ET ET AUx AUX Jam FRUlTS - Beat Beat the the eggs with with fine fine sugar, adding adding a pinch of of FRUITS salt. Cook in butter butter in the the usual usual way. way. When When folding the the salt. 611 with with the the desired desired fruit which which is is usually usually cooked cooked omelette, fill en compote compote in in vanilla-flavoured vanilla-fiavoured syrup, drained, draned, bound bound with with en jam suitable suitable for for the the fruit, fruit, and flavoured with with liqueur. liqueur. a jam Sprinkle with with fine fine sugar sugar and glaze glaze under under the the grill or in in a a hot hot Sprinkle Oyen. oven. Liqueur omelette omelette flanbee. tlambe. oMELETTE OMELETTE Aux AUX LIeuEuRs L1Ql.Jl::URS Liqueur FLAMBE - Rum Rum omelette omelette is is the the most common of these these rrlrusfr omelettes. Beat Beat the the eggs eggs with with fine fine sugar, sugar, add add a pinch pinch of of salt, salt, omelettes. cook the the omelette omelette in in butter, butter, keeprng keeping it it semi-liquid semi-liquid inside. nside. and cook Sprinkle with with fine fine sugar sugar and pour pour warmed rum mm over over it. il. Set it il Sprinkle when serving. serving. alight when Armagnac, Calvados, Cognac, whisky, kirsch and and other Armagnac, from various varous fruits fruits can be used spirits and liqueurs made from of rum. instead of omelette. oMELETTE OMELETTE A Lt lA NoRMANDE NORMANDE Normandy apple omelette. Beat 10 10 eggs eggs with sugar and and fresh fresh cream. Peel Peel and and cut 3 3 Beat apples into slices. Cook the the apples apples in butter and cooking apples tahlespoons (} cup) fresh fresh sugar. Add Add 4 tablespoons vanilla-flavoured sugar. (3 tabledouble cream, cream, and and flavour t'lavour with with 2 2 tablespoons (3 double Make the omelette omelette and fill with the apple spoons) Calvados. Make mixture. Glaze under the grill and serve with double cream. (U.S. Bakd A omelette (U.S. Baked Alaska). Alaska). oMernrrr OMELETTE Norwegian omelette LA NonvfcIENNE NORVGIENNE - The invention of of the r,c, The invention the omelette omelette d la Ia American-born physicist, norvegienne is is attributed to ta an an Amercan-hom norvigienne Benjamin Thompson. But Baron Baron Brisse, Brisse, writing in in 1866, Benjamin Thompson. But states that a French chef learnl the secret of ice being ofice cheflearnt being baked Paris with ln the oven from a Chinese colleague who came to Paris in Misson. He describes the delicate delicale operation: a Chinese Mission. very light it in 'Chili the ice ice cream untiJ hard, hard, wrap it in a a very 'Chill the cream until pastry crust and put in a hot oyen. oven. The The pastry paslry is baked before the poor the ice can mel!. melt. This phenomenon is explained by the can thus Gourmets can substances. Gourmets of cenain certain substances. conductibility of of biting through pipinggive themselves the double pleasure ofbiting palate on on contact contact with the ice hot crust, hot crust, and and cooJing cooling the palate cream.' cm. C!put a cake 2 cm. of Genoa Genoa cake Alternatively, PUI a piece of @ inch) and put with liqueur and thick thick on on an an ovenproof dish, sprinkle with the entire cake with a layer of top. Enclose the the ice cream creirm on top. in a a very hot Bake in sugar. Bake icing sugar. meringue and and sprinkle with icing oven meringue quickly becomes golden brown, so that that the the'meringue oven so penetrate through to the to penetrale but not long enough enougb for the heat to but Dot ice cream. A LA LA pineapple. OMELETTE oMnrerrr with pineapple. Norwegian Norwegian omelette omelette whh in the as described described in NORV'.GIENNE Proceed as NonvfcrcNNe A L'ANANAS r'lNlNls -- Proceed cream and ice cream a filliog preceding recipe, using filling pineapple ice as a using as pineapple cooked in syrup. fine sugar, sugar, with fine the eggs wilh 'U'llll"''':no:: PedauEre Omelette Reine Pdauque - Beat the ground almonds. flat omelettes. omelettes. almonds. Make 2 fiat fresh and grollnd fresh cream, cream, and puree mixed mixd with Spread layer of of apple apple pure a thick thick layer Spread one one with with a Put the the second kirsch. Put fresh flavoured with with kirsch. and ftavoured cream and fresh cream of meringue. meringue. a layer of whole with a omelette cover the whole and coyer omelette on on top and put in until very bot hot oyen oven until in a a very Sprinkle sugar and and put with icing icing sugar Sprinkle with golden brown, has set. set. the meringue brown, and and has meringue is is golden (9 oz., g. (9 oz., 250 g. Blend 250 sotnrrfo -- Blcnd Souffl oMELETTE SOUfFLE omelette. OMELETIE Soufl6 omelette. generous cup) yolks with vanilla with vaniJla egg yolks cup) fine fine sugar sugar and and 6 6 egg grated lemon Mix unlil until the the flavouring or rind. Mix n"'J"",""""fY lemon or or orange orange rind. or grated mixture turns white and forms forms a a ribbon. white and gently fold gently into a a very very stitf stiff froth froth and and rold Whisk 8 egg egg whites whites inlo Whisk 8 mixture. Butler Butter an an ovenproof ovenproof dish dish and and into into the the above above mixture. mixture fine sugar. pour Pour in in the the omelette omelette mixture sprinkle it it with with fine (having reserved and smooth smooth it it with with the the blade blade of of a a reserved a a little) and piping the the reserved reserved mixture mixture knife. Decorate the the omelette omelette by by piping

on on it it through Ihrough a a forcing-bag. forcing-bag. Sprinkle with with very very fine fine sugar sugar
and in a a hot hot oven. oyen. and bake bake in Strawberry StrawbelT)' omelette. omelette. oMELETTE OMELETTE ALrx AUX FRAISES FRAISES - Make Make an an omelette omelette with with eggs beaten beaten with with sugar, a a pinch pinch of salt, and and a a little little cream. cream. Steep strawberries strawberries in in rum, or kirsch, and sugar, and fold fold them them into into the tbe omelette. omelelle. Sprinkle with fine

sugar sugar and and glaze glaze under under the the grill. grill. Surround with crushed strawberries strawberries sprinkled sprinkled with wth sugar sugar and and flavoured with

liqueur. Omelette ........A"' ..:no:: with with zugar. sugar. oMELETTE OMELETTE AU AU sucRr SUCRE - Beat Beat the the eggs eggs with wilh sugar and a small pinch pineh of salt. Flavour Flavour the the omelette with with grated grated orange, orange, lemon lemon or tangerine tangerine rind, rind, sprinkle sprinkle with glaze the fine fine sugar, and glaze the omelette under under the tbe grill. grill.

FISHES' EGGS. oEUFs OEUFS DE DE polssoNs POISSONS - Eggs Eggs of certain certain kinds kinds FISHES' EGGS. of of fish fish are are used used for for food. food. The The most mos! highly highly esteemed esteemcd are are those those of the sturgeon and and sterlet, which which are used used for preparing preparing caviare. Other Other edible fishes' fishes' eggs include include those of the shad, of which the Americans Americans are very fond, and those those of fresh or pickled herring herring which are delicate in taste. The eggs of various various shellfish are also edible. edible.
OEUFS OEUFS DE DE REPTILE, REPTILE, onuFs DE ToRruE TORTUE - Reptiles' Reptiles' eggs eggs are are very little liUle used used in OEUFS DE European European cookery. They are, are, however, howevcr, much prized by the Arabs and and the the Indians who who are are particularly particularly fond fond of of the calnnan's cayman's eggs. Turtle eggs are mainly rnainly used for soup.
SCE AUBERGINE. EGGPLANT EGGPLANT - See

REPTILES' REPTILES' EGGS, EGGS. TURTLE TURTLE EGGS. EGGS.

glass utensil of two Small glass EGG'TIMER. EGG-Tl MER. sABrtnR. SABLIER utensil made of - SmaU bulbous bulbous glass containers narrowing narrowing in the the middle, where where they small opening. One of the communicate by means of of a very 5mall containers has a fixed quantity quantity of sand which passes passes into the down. It other otner when the egg-timer egg-tmer is turned turned upside down. It takes takes 3 minutes to 10 do do this - the Ihe usual usual time allowed aHowed for soft-boiling an an egg.

ncrrNnnn rose-bush. EGLANTINB EGLANTINE, DOG-ROSE. EGLANTIER WiJd rose-bush. - Wild and cOl1tain contain about The hips are are red, ovoid, and and elongated, and The dozen small hairy ossicles. ossicles. a dozen pulp has is used used to to make Hip pulp has astringent properties, and and is jam. Dog-rose hip preserve is still sometimes sometimes used used for is still jam. the hips, with with by steeping the chronic diarrhoea. It is prepared prepared by out, in and cooking and hair scraped out, the seeds and in white wine, and in sugar. in It lf times times its weight in the pulp in
to a certain Ecypre influenced [0 EGYPT. GYPTE - Egyptian cuisine is influenccd luxury hotels) Europe (especially in in the the luxury extent by by Ihat that of of Europe extent source of of inspiration is is Oriental. Oriental. Present but ils its principal source but than that is as good, if not better, than day Egyptian gastronomy is of many European countries. from maze made from The staple is bread bread made maae staple diet of of Egyptians is The plenty and Ihere there are are plenly flour. Vegetables Vegetables are are highly highly esteemed esteemed and flour. Rice is served both as a dish in in to choose from. from. Riec is servcd both as a dish of varieties to rozzette) and as a a garnish. its own right right (such as as the popular rozzelle) ilS seasoned with with mint, mint, is is A vegetable called called foui midames, seasoned A foul mdames, to he their national national dish. dish. considered by by the the Egyptians Egyptians to be their is the Molokheya soup, special herb herb seasonng, seasoning, is the its special soup, with with its Molokheya national soup. national seasoned rab rabbit or chicken chicken sozp consists of of a a highly seasoned Green soup bit or grem leaf garnished with vegetables. chopped green leaf vegetables. stock garnished with finely finely chopped stock tomato sauce. sauce. It is is eaten eaten with with rice rice and and tomato Il in Egypt. meat in mutton is is the the favourite favourite meat Charcoal-grilled mutlon Charcoal-grilled farm work, their flesh flesh is is very very are used used for for farm work, their Since bullocks bullocks are Since for stews. stews. tough and and only only suitable suitable for vegetable. Then Then much appreciated appreciated vegel..able. The bamia bamia is is another another much just as (sold in potatoes (sold in wnter in the the streets streets in winter just as there are are sweet sweet potatoes there London and Potatoes roast chestnuts in Paris, Paris, London and Vienna). Vienna). Potatocs chestnuts are are in roast as, in in fact, fact, are are and Jerusalem Jerusalem artichokes artichokes are are also also available available as, and in Europe. Europe. most of of the the vegetables vegetables cultivated cultivated in most
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EGYPTIAN LOTUS GYPTIAN LOTUS

(Maisonet jardin. PhOl. Egg-timers (Maison Phot. Nicolas) Nicolas) Egg-tirners el jardin.

There is is a a delicious variety of giant crayfish crayfish fished fished in in the the There (known by the Italian name, gambari) Red Sea Sea (known gambar) and and batarekh, batarekh, Red a kind kind oflocal oflocal caviare. a The most typical cakes cakes are are the the marzipan marzipan baklawa baklawa and and The most typical konafa; they are Syrian in origin. origin. cultivated Egyptian fruit fruit is is the the date, date, of of The most widely cultivated which are fifteen are excellent excellent large, which there are fifteen varieties. There are sweet, and sugar sugar cane. cane. The The latter is is sold sold in in special sweet, limes, limes, and shops, shops, the the juice juice being being extracted on the spot for the customer. Egypt, juice to countries, does does not not use use this this juice Egypt, unlike unlike other other countries, make rum. There are also grenadines, alsa oranges, mandarins, grenadines, mangoes, mangoes, bananas, bananas, etc. etc.

EGYPTIAI\ EGYPIIAN LOTUS. LOTUS. Nrrur,rso-Aquatic NELUMBO - Aquatic plant, also known as as Nile Ni/e lily. li/y. This magnificent magnificent plant, which was was the the sacred
lotus of ancient Egypt, is now no longer found found on the the Nile, lotus of but but it it still grows in India and China. Its leaves leaves and roots are edible and its fruit contains con tains up to thirty kernels which which are very very delicate delicate in in flavour. fIavour.

EIDER wild duck. EIDER - Species Species of ofwild duck. ELDERBERRY ELDERBERRY GOURILOS. MoELLE MOELLE DE DE srrREAU SUREAU - After paring outer casing, casing, green elderberry elderberry stalks stalks paring away away the the woody woody outer can can be be cooked cooked in in the the same sa me way as artichoke.stalks artichokestalks or endive endive stumps. stumps.

ELECTRICITY. ELECfRICITY. frpcrucrrf LECTRICIT - A form forro of energy energy which is only only apparent apparent to to our our senses senses when when it it has has been been converted into into chemical, other chemical, calorific, calorific, illuminative, illuminative, mechanical, mechanical, or or other
energy. energy.

Electricity Electricity was was first first used used as as a a culinary culinary aid during during a dinner dinner given given under under the the French French Restoration, Restoration, when when chickens chickens were were served served that that had had been been killed killed neither neither by by wringing wringing their their necks necks nor nor slitting slitting their their throats, throats, a a fact fact that that excited excited the the curiosity curiosity of the the guests guests when when they they were were told. told. Upon Upon hearing hearing that that the the fowls fowls

had been had been electrocuted, electrocuted, they they suddenly suddenly found found a fine, distinctive a fine, distinctive flavour in flavour in the the flesh. flesh. Domestic fowls Domestic fowls are are no no longer longer electrocuted, electrocuted, but but electricity electricity has come has come into into use use in in the the kitchen kitchen as power for as a a motive motive power for driving labour-saving devices, driving labour-saving devices, and and as as a heating medium. a heating medium. Electric Electric cookers cookers are are c1ean clean and highly efficient, and highly efficient, with with sophistisophisticated cated temperature control, control, and and offer precision offer maximum maximum precision preparation of in the the preparation of food. food. The The development development of of electrical electrical household household equipment equipment has has made made necessary necessary the the installation installation of high voltage voltage electrical of high electrical points in the kitchen. The The installation installation of points should of these these points should be be entrusted entrusted only qualified electrical only to to qualified electrical experts. experts. There There should plugs near should be no plugs be no near water water inlets; inlets; flex flex should should be be chanchannelled nelled through tubes tubes or or insulated insulated in (all conin other other ways ways (ail connections nections should should be be carefully carefully insulated, insulated, certain certain types types of of equipment equipment should should be be earthed, earthed, etc.). etc.). Loose Loose lengths lengths of flex of Bex should umber of should be be avoided; avoided; it it is is better better to to increase increase the the n number of electrical points, sa so that the various pieces pieces of equipment equipment can can be plugged in be possible to in as as close as as possible to their their area area of of use. use. The The strength strength of the the power-feed must must be be sufficient to to allow allow for for in the any increase in the number of electrical appliances appliances used used at at one time. Modern electrical Modern electrical equipment, equipment, with with its its high high level level of of efficiency, is is usually usually safe, efficiency, safe, but but it it is is advisable advisable to to buy buy from from manufacturers whose reliable manufacturers goods are whose goods are quality-tested and and guaranteed. guaranteed. Household and and kitchen kitchen aids be divided Household aids can can be divided into into two two categories: a a basic basic machine machine that that operates categories: operates a a number number of of or a a number number of of appliances appliances, or appliances each each with with its its own own motor. In large-scale catering (restaurants, institutions, motor. In large-scale catering (restaurants, institutions, autonomous pressure pressure cookers, cookers, griddles, etc.) autonomous etc.) griddles, deep-friers, deep-friers, etc., are are used. used. Appliances Appliances like like beaters, beaters, mixers, etc., mixers, mincers, mincers, slicers, etc. etc. help help to to cut cut time time and and labour labour costs. whisks, slicers, costs. These, These, however, cannot entirely entirely take take the the place of of manual manual labour: labour: however,

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EN.CAS EN-CAS
they they are are useful useful aids, ads, no no more. more. And And not not all al! machines machines are are equipped equipped with with a a sufficient sufficient number number of of speed speOO variants. variants.
Emincs of beef with poiwade sauce. sauce. ErarNcfs MINCS DE DE BoEUF BOEUF for for Emincis mincs of of beef beef chasseur, chasseur, covering covering the the meat meal with with Poivrade Poivrade sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SA UCE). Emincds mincs of of beef bf with witt Robert Robert souce. ftutNcfs MINCS DE DE BoEUF BOEUf sAUcE SAUCE RoBERT ROBERT - Proceed Proceed as as for for Emincis of of beef beef chasseur, chasseur, covering the the meat meat with with Robert Robert sauce sauce (se (sec SAUCE). SA UCE). Enincds of of beef bf with with tomato tomato sauce. sauce. ftrltlcfs MINCS DE DE BoEUF BOEUF sAUcE SAUCE ToMATE TOMATE - Proceed Proceed as as for for Emincds mincs of beef chasseur, covering covering the the meat meat with Tomato TomalO sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE). After ACter being being covered with wilh the the sauce sauce indicated, indicated, imincis of of beef beef can be be garnished garnished in in various various ways. ways. The The garnishes garnishes most most suited to to these these dishes are: are: saut6 saute potatoes; gree,n vegetables vegetables tossed in butter butter or or cream; cream. braised vegetables; pur6es of of lossed in pulses pulses and and chestnuts; pasta pasta of of various various kinds; rice pilaf pilaf and and risotto. mutton or nminces miocs of ofmuttoo or lamb. 18mb. ErarNcfs MINCS oe DE MouroN, MOUTON, D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU Proceed as as for for imincis minces of of beef, beef, using using left-over left-over roast roast or or - Proceed braised mutton mutlon or lamb. lamb. Erninces mincs of of pork. pork. nr,nNcts MINCS DE DE PoRc PORC - Proceed, Proceed, using using slices slices for dmincis of left-over left-over pork, pork, as as for mincs of of beef. beef. fninces of poultry. pooltTy. frrlrNcrs MINCS DE DE voLAILLB VOLAILLE - Make Make with with thin thin mincs of slices of roast or poached poached left-over left-over poultry. All AH methods methods of of poultry. of poullry. serving imincis mincs of of beef are are suitable suitable fot imincds of cream sauces, such They can also be covered with with white white sauces, such as as cream hongroise' sauce, curry, suprme, ravigote, ravigote, hongroise. curry, suprime, cHEYREUIT f,ninces of of roebuck. funNcfs MI.NC~.s DE DE CHEVREUIL .- Proceed, Proceed, fot imincis as for roast roebuck, of left-over roast using slices of roebuck, as mincs of of using slices beef. game, can be all This dish, and other ground game, be covered covered with with ail veneur, ground game, game, e.g. e.g. grand grand veneur, sauces especially especially suitable for graund romaine. romaine. bntn,llke d brun, DE vEAU EtvtIxcfs DE Emincds of veal. MINCS mincs VEAU - Prepared, Prepared, like poultry. of poultry. imincds of it blanc, blanc,like of beei imincis mincs of beef, like mincs
sAUcE as SAUCE poIvRADE POlVRADE - Proceed as

ELEPHAI{T. ELEPHAl'I1'. frfpsnNr LPHANT - Elephant Elephant meat meat is IS edible but but
leathery. leathery. The The trunk trunk and and feet feet are are regarded regarded as as great great delicacies delicacies in in some sorne Asian Asian countries. countries.

various in alcohol or wine wine containing contammg a a high provarous elements e\ernents in portion of alcohol. alcohol. The The old Codex Codex Pharmacopoera Pharmacopoeia included portion of large number number of formulae fonnulae for elixirs. e!ixirs. The present present Codex Codex a large includes among which which are the the following: following: includes only 6, among Elixir of of cola. cola. 6rxn. LIXIR DE DE coLA COLA - 50 50 g. Q (2 oz.) oz.) fluid extract extracl of of Elixir 100 g. (4 (4 oz.) 60" proof alcohol, 100 e. g. (4 (4 oz.) oz.) plain plain cola, 100 syrup and 750 g. (l? lb.) Lunel wine. GARUS - Steep I 1 g. vanilla vanilla and Elixir of Garus. 6t xn DE cARUs g. saffron in I tg. 1 kg. (2* (2! lb.) spirit of of Garus for 2 2 days. ] oz.) r4aidenhair Infuse Infuse 20 20 e. e (~oz.) Tr!aidenha ir fern fem in in 500 500 g. (18 (18 oz.) 30 minutes. Add 200 200 g. g. (7 (7 oz.) distilled distilled boiling water water for 30 boiling 1 kg kg (2+lb.,4f (2i lb., 41- cups) white sugar. orange-flower water water and and I orange-flower Mix well. weIl. Add the spirit spirit to this trus syrup. syrup. Leave to cool and filter. tiHer. Elixir Elixir of of Grande-Chartreuse. Grwde--Chartrwse. 6rtxn LIXIR os DE LA LA GRANDEGRANDESteep the CHARTREUSE - Steep Ihe following following for for 8 8 days days in in l0 10 litres lilres cHARTREUsE of (9 (9 quarts, quarts, ll Il quarts) alcohol:650 alcohol: 650 g. g. (scant (seant l+ 11 lb.) each each of 300 g. fresh melissa melissa leaves leaves and and hyssop hyssop leaves, leaves, 300 g. (11 (II oz.) fresh 50 g. (2 oz.) 150 g. g. (5 (5 oz.) cinnamon cinnamon pod, pod, 50 leaves, 150 angelica leaves, 5+ Distil. Add mace and and saffron. saffron. Distil. Add 1260 126 g. each of mace E. QZ lb., 5t cups) white sugar.
LAN found in northem Europe. The ELK. 6r,.,c,N - Wild ruminant found its flesh and its existence, and stag in elk is is now now the the largest stag in existence, flesh is elk deer are are suitable for and fallow edibJe. AH recipes recipes for stag and fallaw deer edible. All elk.

manufactured by by dissolving dissolving ELIXIR. ELlXJR. 6rDsR LlXJR - Liquid manufactured

degree of of indicated a a degree This word word once once indicated EMBONPOINT - This size, but but it fat was in which corpulence in which fat was proportionate to ta size, it is for slight obesity. a euphemism for as a used as now now commonly used good food are usually proud of their Connoisseurs of good Connoisseurs food are their weight might be they although whatever their embonpoint although embonpont never admit to being fat. meat. Thinly Thinly sliced, it it left-over meat. npffnCf MINC - Dish made with left-over a sauce, sauce, such is placed in an ovenware ovenware dish and covered with a is Robert, ltalian, piquante, Robert, chasseur, Italian,piquanze, borde laise, mushroom, chasseur, as hordelaise, etc. Tomato, etc. the sauce heated only only in in the sauce meat must must be be heated These slices of meat slices of These if roast roast meat meat poured over 1 especially if boil, especially them hem,; they must not bail, are most most commonly commonly mutton, or or lamb are is used. used. Beer, Beef, roebuck, mutton, is sometimes sometimes made with poultry. for Ihis this dish dish but but it it is used for used fir,rmcs DE DE BOEUF BoEUF sauce. MINCS of beef bordelaise sauce. Eminces of bed with with bordelaise minces in a a dish dish and and slices of of meat in the slices sAUcE BORDELAISE BoRDELAIsE -- Arrange the SAUCE poached beef garnish with bone-marrow. Cover Cover beef bone-marrow. strips of of poached with strips gamish (see SAUCE). wth Bordelaise Bordelaise sauce sauce (see with DE BOEUF BoEUF CHASSEUR cHAssEUR -chasseur. frurucfs DE fminc6s of of beef bed chasswt. mincs dish and and cover cover with with boiling of beef beef on on a a dish Arrange slices slices of Arrange (see SA SAUCE). Chasseur sauce (see Chasseur UCE). pn BOEUF soeuF A fivrmcfs DE I lta]jenoe. l'italienne. MlNCS fnincds of of bf beef mincs for mincs Emincis of beef chasseur, chasseur, L'ITALENNE -- Proceed as for Proceed as L'lTALNNE ltaliut sauce sauce (se SAUCE). covering the the meat meat with with ltalian la lyonnaise. lyonnaise. fruwcfs os sosuF A rA, beef A hl Eninc6s of of hf as for for mincs Emincis of of beef beef chasseur, chasseur, LyoNNAIsE -- Proceed Proceed as LYOl'<'"NAISE (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Lyonnaise sauce sauce (sec the meat meat with with Lyonnaise covering the covering DE BOEUF BoEUF AUX Atx nrrrNcfs mushrooms. M fninces of of beef. beef .with mincs with IDl.lsbrooms. 1Nets DE on a a dish. dish. Put Put Arrange the the slices slices of of beef beef on cHAMpIGNoNs -- Arrange CHAMPIGNONS the top of in butter, on top of the tossed in butter, on mushrooms, tossed or sliced whole or sliced rnushrooms, whole sauce (se SA SAUCE). Madeira sauce slices. Cover Cover with with boiling boiling Madeira UCE). slices. DE BOEUF piErante sauce. nrarr.rcrs DE BoEUF with piquante Eminces of of beef beef witll mincs pIeuANTE - Proceed beef chasseur, chasseur, of beef as for for Emincis of sAUcE PIQUANTE SAUCE - Proceed as (see SA sauce (sec SAUCE). Piquante sauce covering the the meat meat with with Piquante coverng UCE).
359 359

slice to slice meaning ta cookery meaning in French French cookery used in E*ffNCnn MINCER - Term used and turnips are very t'inely. finely. Carrois Carrots and fruit very meat, meat, vegetables or fruit pteparation, mushraoms mushrooms when fot a paysanne finely sliced sliced for finely paysanne preparation, potatoes, sliced potatoes, Finely sliced butter. Finely in butter. saut6ed in to be are 10 they are he sauted iminci. tobe said etc. are also sa apples, etc. id to be minc.

CHEESE. See CHEESE. EMMENTHAL EMMENTHAL - See

the to all all the referring to French caokery cookery referring in French EMPOTAGE EMPOT AGE - Term n put in in a a braising pan. ingredients pu! Pan. ingredienls in a a put various various Ingredients ingredients in to put meaning to EMPIOTER EMPOTER - Term meanng pan. stockpot stock pot or braising pan.

ftuurstoN -EMLTLSION. MULSION EMUlSION. drops of of minute drops containing minute contajoing
suspension.

of milky milky appearance appearance Liquid of Liquid less stable stable in more more or or less fat in oil or or fat oil

slightly the liquid liquid is is slightly stability when when the Emulsions have greater stability somewhat viscous viscous consistency. consistency. a sornewhat and proteid, with with a alkaloid and globules. of cream cream globules. is an an emulsion emulsion of Milk, for for instance, instance, is Milk, given in to a mixture in cookery cookery to a mixture is also also given name emulsion emulsion is The name Tbe yolks, such mayonnaise or or as mayonnaise such as with egg egg yolks, of oil oil or or butter butter with of hollandaise sauce. sauce. hollandaise fir,rursloN or milk milk of of almonds. alnonds. MULSION Plain a!mooo alnond emulsion enulsion or Plain g. (2 (2 oz., oz., 1 cup) D'AMANDEs -- 50 50 g. LAlr D'AMANDES o'ArrrlNnns, LAIT srMpLE D'A.\fANDES, I cup) SIMPLE (2 oz., g. (2 I cup) white white sugar, 1 50 g. oz., * cup) sweet almonds, almonds, 50 blanched sweet blanched quart) distiJled (l* pints, generous quart) water (Codex pints, generous distilled water litre (Ii litre formula). fonnula). the little water to the and a a Iinle water ta sugar and the almonds almonds withthe with'the sugar Pound the Paund paste. Dilute the rest rest of of the the Dilute with with the of a a smoolh smooth paste. consistency of consistency a sieve. sieve. and rub rub through through a water and water

is used in France France to to 'in case' used iD meaning 'in case' which which is Term meaning EN-CAS - Term EN-CAS(usually a kept ready ready in in case case of of meal) kept meal (usually a cold cold meal) describe a a meal describe

need. need. readiness laid in in readiness a table table was was always always laid In the the old old chteaux, chiteaux, a ln eighteenth guests. In and eighteenth In the the sevenleenth seventeenth and for unexpected unexpected guests. for

ENDIVE ENDIVE
centuries the the en en cas cas de denuit nuit was given to was the the name name given to aa light light centuries meal kept kept in in readiness readiness near near the the king's king's bedchamber. bedchamber. It It meal consisted of of three three loaves loaves of of bread, bread, two two bottles bottles of of wine wine and and aa consisted flask of of water. water. According According to to an an anecdote anecdote dating dating from from the the flask time of Louis XIV, great king of Louis XIV, the the great king once once shared shared his lrlrs en-cas en-cas time Molidre in with Molire in order order to to teach teach his his courtiers courtiers aa lesson lesson after after with they had had refused refused to to allow allow the the famous famous dramatist dramatist to to sit sit at at their their they table. table.
Endivei la laflamande. flamande.CHICORE cgrcoRfE^A. r.a,FLAMANDE rr,lMlNor - -Trim Endive LA Trimand and wash the theendive. endive.Blanch, Blanch,drain, drain, and andcook cookititwhole wholein wash inbutter. butter. Finish in inthe thesame sameway wayas asfor forEndive Endivewith withcream. ueam. Finish gratin.CHICORE Endiveau ur gratin. cnrconfo AU AUGRATIN GRATTN- - Put Putthe Endive thebraised braised endive in inaafireproof fireproof dish dishand andcover coverwith Bichamelsauce endive withBchamel sauce (seeSAUCE). SAUCE). Sprinkle gratedcheese, Sprinkle with pourmelted with grated cheese, pour (see melted butter over overit, it, and gently in andbrown browngently inthe theoven. butter oven. jus.CHICORE Endive au aujus. crnconnn AU AUJUS JUS- - Braise Endive Braise the theendive endive in inbeef beef stock on on aa foundation foundation of (carrots, ofsliced sliced root root vegetables stock vegetables(carrots, onions, etc.). Strain Strain the the boiled-down boiled-downliquor on ions, etc.). liquor and andadd addto toitit several tablespoons tablespoons rich richveal vealstock. stock. several p,c.nrDE Erdive loaf. loaf. PAIN orCHICOREcrnconfr- Combine (generous Endive g.(generous Combine 500 500g. I lb.) lb.) braised braised endive endive with with 33 beaten 1 beateneggs. eggs.Season Seasonwith withsalt, salt, pepper and and nutmeg. nutmeg. Mix Mix weIl. pepper well.Pour Pour into into aabuttered buttered mould. mould. Cook in in the the oven oven in in aabain-marie bain-marie for Cook for 25 25 minutes. minutes. Leave Leaveto to cool for for aa few few moments moments before cool before turning turning it it out outonto ontoaadish. dish. Cover with Allemandesauce with Allemande (se SAUCE). Cover sauceor or Cream Crectrn sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Endive au au maigre. maigre. CHICORE Endive cnrconfe TUVE Eruvsn AU AU MAIGRE MATcRE - - Blanch Blanch put it the endive, endive, put it in the in aa colander colander under under the thecold cold tap, tap,drain, drain, and dry dry it. it. Put Put it it in in aacasserole and casserole with g. (2 with 50 50 g. oz.,tf,cup) cup)butter butter Qoz., (generous 1I lb.) g. (generous for every every 500 for 500 g. lb.) endive. endive. Season. Season. Moisten Moisten (l pint, pint, 2! with 6 6 dl. dl. (1 with 2| cups) cups) water, water, and and cook cook in in the the oven, oven, covered, for for li l| hours. hours. covered, (q.v.) of A white A white roux roux (q.v.) of flour flour and and butter butter can canbe be added. added. punrE DE pre. PURE Endive pure. Endive oE CHICORE csrconfn -- Rub Rub braised braised or orstewed stewed endive through endive through aa sieve. sieve.Add Add Bchamel Bdchamel sauce, sauce, thick thickVelout Veloutd (se SA sauce (see UCE), rich sauce SAUCE), rich veal veal stock, stock, or or fresh fresh butter. butter. To To improve improve the the consistency puree, add consistency of of this this pure, add a third or a third or aa quarter of quarter potato pure. of its its weight pur6e. weight of of potato Endive Endive salad. salad. SALADE slrlnr DE on CHICORE crrconm -- See SeeSALAD. SALAD. Endive Endive souffl. soufl6. SOUFFL sor.JrFI,f DE (9 oz.) on CHICORE cnrcon6n -- Cook g. (9 Cook 250 250 g. oz.) endive endive in in beef beef stock (in butter stock or or au au maigre maigre (in butter and and water), water), and and sieve. sieve. Combine yolks; season Combine with with 3 3 egg egg yolks; pepper, season with with salt, salt, pepper, and and nutmeg; nutmeg; and and add add 3 3 well-whisked well-whiskd egg egg whites. whites. Pour Pour into into a a buttered buttered souffl souffi6 dish. dish. Smooth Smooth the the surface surface and and cook (400'F., Gas cook in in the the oven oven at at 200C. 200"C. (400F., Mark 6) Gas Mark 6) for for 15 15 to to 18 l8 minutes. minutes. Serve Serve at at once. once. Endive Endive souffl soufl6 with with Parmesan. Parmesan. SOUFFL on CHICORE souFFr.6 DE cnrconfo AU nu PARMESAN PARMESAN -- Made Made in in the the same same way way as as Endive Endive souffl. souffii.Add Add g. (2 50 50 g. grated Parmesan oz., it cup) atp) grated Parmesan to to the the souffl. souffi6. Q oz., pErrrs SOUFFLS Little (hot hors Little endive endive souffls soufrds (bot hors d'uvre). dbuwe). PETITS sourrrfs pe CHICORE DE cruconfo -- The The same same as as above. above. Put Put the the mixture mixture into into individual individual souffl soufr6 dishes dishes and and cook cook in in the the oven oven at at 200C. 200'C. (400'F., Gas (400F., Gas Mark Mark 6) 6) 8 8 to to 10 l0 minutes. minutes. Endive Endive subrics. srbrics. SUBRICS suBRrcs DE os CHICORE cHlcoRfo -- Prepared Prepared with with braised braised endive endive in in the the same same way (see way as as Subrics Subrics of of spinach spinach (see SPINACH). SPTNACH).

ENDIVE AND AND CHICORY CHICORY ENDIVE l. UJuviers Louviers endive (U.S. chicory) endive (U.S. chicory) 2. 2. Barbe-de-Capucin Barbe-de-Capucin (wild (wild chicory) chicory) 1. (U.S. 3. Chicory Belgian endive) (U.S. chicory, 4. Endive (U.S. chicory, escarole) escarole) 3. Chicory (U.S. Belgian endive) 4. Endive

(U.S. CHICORY). ENDM (V.S. plant CHICORY). CHICORE crrconfe -- Genus Genus of ENDIVE of plant leaves. These are eaten in salads, salads, but can cultivated for its leaves. can be be braised or stewed stewed in in butter butter as as indicated indicated in in the braised or the following recipes. is confusion confusion about about the the names endive endive and There is and chicory. chicory. In endive usually usually means means the the curly-Ieaved In England England endive curly-leaved salad plant, generally called called chicory chicory in in the the U.S.A. plant, generally U.S.A. What What the the French and Americans cali call endive or Belgian Belgian endive is is called called England. For chicory in For the sake of clarity in England. the sake clarity we we are are giving preference usage. preference to the English usage. Endive has very little nutritive value. nutritive value. Endive with bechamel sauce. CHICORE bchamel sauce. crnconm A LA r,q BCHAMEL sfcnAMrr -Braise in beef stock stock or cook in in salted salted boiling water. water. Add several tablespoons tablespoons Bichamel Bchamel sauce (see SAUCE) and sorne some fresh endive. fresh butter to the cooked endive. Braised gras. crnconfr CHICORE BRAlSE AU GRAS Braised endive endive au au gras. BRATSEE AU GRAs Remove Remove any any hard leaves. Cut the rest from the stump. Wash the the leaves in several clean lots of water, water, drain and and blanch them them for l0 10 minutes in rapidly boiling salted salted water. Drain, put put under under the cold co Id tap, press the water from the endive endive and chop chop it it up up finely. finely. Make Make a a white white roux roux (q.v.) (q.v.) For 500 500 g. g. (generous (generous I 1 lb.) endive cup) butter and 50 50 g. (2 oz., cup) endive use use 50 g. (2 oz., * cup) oz.,f flour seasoned with with salt, pepper, pepper, sugar sugar and grated nutmeg, and moistened moistened with 6 dl. dl. (l (1 pint, 2t 2 cups) consomm6, consomm, or white stock. stock. Add Add the the endive. Bring Bring to the boil on the top of white the stove stove and and then then cook, cook, covered, in in the oven for lj I! hours. the CHICORE AU AU BEURRE BEURREBraise in in beef beefstock Buttered endive. endive. crncon6E hrttered stock - Braise or cook cook in in boiling boiling salted salted water. water. Add to the the cooked endive endive or 50 50 to to 75 75 g. g. (2 (2 to to 3 oz., oz., f, t to to f cup) butter butter for every 500 g. (generous (generous I 1 lb.) lb.) of of vegetable. vegetable. cream. csrconfn CHICORE A rn LA cniup CRME - Cook in in the Endive with with cream. Endive same way way as as Buttered Buttered endive. endive. Finish Finish with with lf 1! dl. $ (i pint, pint, I 1 same cup) fresh fresh cream. cream. cup)

ENDIVE ENDM GOURILOS. MOELLE rraonlt.n DE DE CHICORE cHrcoRfn -- The The stumps stumps of curly curly endive endive are are often often called called moelles moelles in in France, France, but but they they are also known gourilos, known as as gourilos. Blanch Blanch in in salt salt water water containing containing lemon lemon or vinegar, and or vinegar, and drain weIl. well. Prepare Prepare in various ways: in butter wayst in butter or or cream in a cream in a covered pan; fried; (q.v.); grilled; covered pan; grilled; grecque fried; in fritols d la h grecque fritots (q.v.); (q.v.);; curried; (q.v.) (See GOURILOS.) curried ; sauted, sauteed, etc. etc. (See GOURILOS.)

ENGLISH ENGLISH COOKERY INTERNATIONAL COOKSee INTERNATIONAL COOK- See ERY. ENTOLOMA. ENror,orm ENTOLOME - Mushroom of the the agaric agaric family family ENTOLOMA. - Mushroom of
entoloma is is poisonous poisonous and blue entoloma blue causes gastroenteritis and causes accompanied by by epigastric vomiting. accompanied epigastric pains and and vomiting. characterized by by its its pink spores lamellae. The The blackishspores and characterized and lamellae. blackish-

ENTOMOPHAGOUS. ENroMopHAcB ENTOMOPHAGE - Word ENTOMOPHAGOUS. of Greek Greek - Word of origin meaning meaning insect-eating. insect-eating. The origin The ancient ancient Athenians Athenians ate ate grilled cicadas. cicadas. Even Even today today many many peoples, grilled peoples, including including the the
Arabs and and the the Egyptians, Egyptians, enjoy grasshoppers. The Arabs enjoy grasshoppers. The Chinese, Chinese, too, eat eat certain certain insects, insects, caterpillars, caterpillars, etc. etc. too,

360 360

EPILEPSY
Most sweets served nowadays fall into one of the following categories: categories: l. 1. Batter sweets (crpes, (crpes, fritters, etc.). 2. custards. 2. Cooked creams creams and custards. 3. omelettes, etc.). 3. Egg sweets (sweet omelettes, 4. sweets (cooked or raw). 4. Fruit sweets 5. Ices and ice creams. 5. creams. sweets. 6. 6. Meringue Meringue sweets. 7. Pastry sweets sweets (tarts, pies, flans, etc.). 7. 8. 8. Puddings. sweets. 9. Rice and semolina sweets. 9. 10. Whipped 10. Whipped cream sweets.
(

Piece of ofentrec6te entrecte from rib rib ofbeef of beef (Boucherie Larousse) Boucherie Bernard. Phot. Larousse)

ENTRECTE means 'between the ENTRECOTE Term which which literally means - Tenn between two ribs of beef. ribs'. It is used of a steak taken between The term tenn also also applies to a slice taken from the contrefilet or faux filet filet of beef, but a true entrecte between entrec6te is that cut between or faux various recipes, For various ribs. It is is usually usually grilled or fried. fried. For the ribs. see BEEF. BEEF. ENTRECUISSE - Tenn Term in cookery for the fleshy in French cookery game. This thigh of poultry or is to This is to distinguish distinguish it thigh or winged game. from the lower half of the leg or 'drumstick'.
the Dordogne, Dordogne, Bordeaux situated between between the Garonne and the stretching boundary of of the the Gironde the south-eastern south-eastem boundary stretching to to the dpartement dipartethe Lot-et-Garonne Lot-et-Garonne dpartedipartemefi and and overlapping overlapping the ment. for the The is reserved reserved for The appellation appellation Entre-Deux-Mers Entre-Deux-Mers is gradually becoming drier. white wines, drier. The The red wines, which which are are gradually wines to the appellation Bordeaux or Bordeaux wines have a a right to Suprieur. Sup6rieur.

EPERGNE. MNAGRE rafNlcins of glass, porcelain or - Table-centre of metal stem. metal bowls attached to to an an ornamental ornamental metal stem. In metal bowls attached France, epergnes are are still still used used as hors-d'euvre sets as hors-d'uvre sets for France, epergnes pickled melons, salted cucumbers, small pickled melons, serving gherkins, salted and other delicaci~s. delicacies. They are also also used used for for serving serving capers, and petitsfouis. stewed fruit or iced petitsfouis. lamb consists of two consists of An pigramme ipigramme of lamb npfCnnVfME PIGRAMME - An of breast cuts, both cooked 'dry'. These two pieces are a slice ofbreast in egg and breadcrumbs and dipped in egg and and a a cutlet cutlet or chop, dipped and preparation of the preparation grilled or Instructions for for the fried. Instructions or fried. grilled ipigrammes are given under LAMB. pigrammes term pigramme ipigramme explains the origins of the tenn Philas Phil6as Gilbert explains as follows: 'It was towards the middle of the eighteenth century. One guests at at table day a a young marquise overheard one of her guests evening with he was dining the the previous evening remark that when he remark received and, he was was charrningly charmingly received de Vaudreuil, Vaudreuil, he the comte de the The epigrams. The had a feast of of excellent excellent epigrams. furthermore, had had had a feast furthermore, pretty and was somewhat somewhat elegant, was and elegant, marquise, though though pretty marquise, ignorant of the meaning of words. Michelet. her chef. later summoned Michelet, 'She later "tomorrow, 1 I shall shall require him, "tomorrow, "'Michelet," she she said to to him, '''Michelet,'' ipigrammesl" a a dish of pigrammes!" chef withdrew, pondering the problem. He looked up 'The chefwithdrew, kind. the kind. no reference to anything of the found no but found old recipes, but old no But no heard of of the the dish. dish. But had ever ever heard None of his his colleagues colleagues had None could discover at a a loss. loss. Since Since he could is ever at French master chef is one. Next day, day, set about about to invent one. nothing about the dish dish he set nothing a most delicate delicate dish. dish. and he created created a inspiration came and put guests feU 'At dinner, over the the dish dish put fell into ecstasies ecstasies over dinner, the the guests 'At the house, house, and, after after complimenting complimenting the lady of the thun and, before them was called. The chef called. With With perfect its name. The chef was know its desired to to know desired la Michelet". Michelet". "Epigrammes oflamb of lamb d la composure he replied, "pigrammes composure 'Everyone laughed. The marquise marquise was was triumphant, laughed. The 'Everyone the amusement amusement of of her not understand understand the though she she could could not though of France France guests. From that moment, the culinary culinary repertoire of guests. to this day. day. still used used to enriched by by a a name still was enriched for slices slices of originally used used for of 'But whereas this this name name was was originally 'But fried in in butter and in breadcrumbs, fried butter and breast of lamb dipped dipped in breast of lamb lamb, by end of lamb, by the the end round a a blanquette blanquette of arranged arranged in in a a circle circle round had been transformed it had been completely completely transfonned of the eighteenth eighteenth century century it of in slices of of breast, breast, dipped dipped in into what what it it is is today, today, cutlets cutlets and and slices into grilled.' fried in in butter or grilled.' butter or egg and and fried egg and breadcrumbs and particular fpllrpsn -- Ancient Ancient doctors, doctors, in in particular EPILEPSY. PILEPSIE EPlLEPSY. of diet diet in in the the treatHippocrates, recognised the the importance importance of treatHippocrates, kinds of of conflicting conflicting ment of disease, and and since since then then al! all kinds of this this disease, ment diets have have been Some definite definite conclusions conclusions can can been concocted. concocted. Sorne diets facts, however. however. drawn from from certain certain facts, be drawn be voracious eaters; cutting Epileptics are are hearty, hearty. sometimes eaters; cutting sometimes voracious Epileptics number of diminishes the the number of epileptic epileptic on food food therefore down on therefore diminishes down fits. fits. particularly a vegetarian diet, a milk milk diet diet lessens lessens the the A vegetarian diet, or or particularly A frequency of of fits fits in in the the majority majority of of cases. cases. frequency not true for ail true for all epileptics. These claims, however, are are not epileptics. claims, however, These
361 361

given to the area ENTRE-DEUX-MERS Name given to the area of ENTRE-DEUX-MERS - Name

in a full French French menu, ENTRE course which, which. in a full ENTREE The course - The in its relevd or intermediate course course which, which, in follows follows the the relev or intennediate (or whatever dish turn, dish may may be be served served in turn, follows the the fish fish (or place of it). third course, is the the third place In other words, words, the the entre entrie is it). In not the first, would seem to to be. first, as as it would It is usually a dish served with a white or brown sauce, but formal dinner, dinner, several several can At a a large large formai dish. At can also also be be a a cold cold dish. in character, character, are entres, entries, ail different from from one one another another in all different usually served. served. dishes, can also Mixed entres, that is is to to say say composite dishes, can also entries, that be served. Mixed entres. rNrnfes MIXTES MxrEs -- Under this heading there entr6es. ENTRES is the chief chief of of these these being being variety of is an an infinite infinite variety of dishes, dishes, the pdtis made garnishes; hot various gamishes; hot pts made casseroles rice with with various casseroles of of rice (variety meats), poultry, game, game, meat, fish and with meat, offal offal (variety meats), fish and with poultry, shellfish; vol-au-vent. These pies; savoury shellfish; pies; These are tartlets and and vol-au-vent. savoury tartlets served after the the principal entres. entries.
ENTRELARDER term for for slices slices of meat ENTRELARDER - French culinary tenn cooked with alternate layers of of pork fat. alternate layers ENTREMETS 'between dishes'. In old old French French dishes'. In Literally 'between - Literally the tenn roast, and and followed the roast, term covered all the dishes dishes which followed covered ail included not sweets but not only sweets but vegetables. ln and seventeenth seventeenth fifteenth, sixteenth sixteenth and In the the fourteenth, fourteenth, fifteenth, centuries, entertainnot only food but but also also entertainmeant not only food centuries, entremets entremets meant provided by ment by buffoons, of the the meal, meal, provided ment in in the the middle middle of perminstrels, and other other peracrobats, dancers, dancers, and minstrels, troubadours, troubadours, acrobats, fonners. formers. (desserts), which, Nowadays, the in which, in means sweets sweets (desserts), word means the word given under France, Recipes are are given under France, are after the cheese. cheese. Recipes are served served after their names in order. their names in alphabetical alphabetical order.

EPINE D'HIVER

D'HMR Name of a Epnm D'HIVER PINE pear, tender tender and a winter winter pear, - Name fragrant to eat.
EpfNEn PINE - French regional name for chine of pork.

EPIPHANY. PIPHANIE 6ppn,c,NIE Epiphany or or Twelfth Twelfth Night Night EPIPHANY. - Epiphany (known in France as the Feast of the Kings) is celebrated (known celebrated on it is an occasion occasion for great feasting. feasting. 6 January. In France il Twelfth-Night cake, cake, the the symbolic symbolic cake cake containing the Twelfth-Night is eaten on Twelfth Night. It is traditional bean (or favour) is made either either of risen risen dough dough in in the shape of a a ring, ring, or flaky made pastry in the shape of a galette, according to the region. _ See EPOTSSNS SEC CHEESE. POISSES CHEESE.
EpONCnn Term in in French cookery for the process PONGER French cookery for the process of - Tenn dryrng parboiled or boiled vegetables by putting them on a drying draining, to get rid of ail all surplus moisture. cloth after draining, Sorne Some deep-fried foods are drained in a clotho cloth. This process iponger. is also known as ponger.
ERDBEERKUCHEN (German pastry) ERDBEERKUCHEN - A German strawberry tart. See TART, Fruit d l'allemande. Fruit tart

raw in is chiefly chiefly eaten eaten raw in salad, salad, but can also also be Escarole is but can cooked in a great many ways. Ali methods of All the methods preparation cooked of preparation (q.v.) are given for (q.v.) and chicory (q.v.) for endive (q.v.) are applicable to given this plant.

ERIdITAGE is sometimes sometimes written with ERMIT AGE (Wine) - This name is (Hermitage). The wine, which is an 'H' (Hennitage). is made in the Drme an Dr6me dipartement, enjoys a a great dpartement, are both red Ereat reputation. There are and white Ermitage Ennitage wines, made from grapes grown on the and slopes of I'Ermitage in the the commune of Tain Tain on l'Ennitage in the left slopes on the bank of ofthe Rhdne. the Rhne. There are different types of soil in this area, and the vinesections or mas, divided into three sections mas) each very very different different yard is divided Bossard in geological structure from from the others. The mas de Bossard the mas de de Mial is alluvial soil, soil, and is a Mal is slopeo the and the a granite slope, mas Grffieux is clay. mos de Greffieux Ermitage wine wine is is perfect only when when made from grapes Ennitage perfect only made from from aU all three sections of ofthe the vineyard. golden yellow. It has a fairly White Ermitage Ennitage wine is a fine golden White of a faded strong bouquet. The red wine, when it is young, is of purple colour. It should be left to mature for a while, otherslightly bitter. wise it tastes slightly
given in name given The name in France to to a a very very old old wild ERMITE - The boai boa'r which is also known as solitaire. The meat of old wild young boar leathery. Only In France, a is leathery. Only young is eaten. eaten. In boar is boar is (See young boar is rousse. (See is known as as a a marcassin marca,ssm or or bte bOte rousse. young wrLD BOAR.) WILD ER.VY -. See CHEESE. ERVY CHEESE. generic name The generic fnvrnnrN -- The ERYTHRIN. RYTHRIN name for for several thick and and rounded rounded in varieties of of fish, fish, rather in body varieties rather thick body with large heads. to be be found found in the lakes lakes and Three or four four varieties are are to fish is to eat. eat. It It is rivers of hot hot countries. countries. This This fish rivers is excellent to cooked in the same way as as sea perch. ESCABTCHE hors-d'auvre. ESCABCHE HORS-DGUVRE, Cold hors-d'uvre. See HORS-DUVRE, - See of Spanish Spanish origin. In Belgium it is escavche, Word of escaviche, in North Africa, scabche. scabCche.

ofa Auguste Escoffier in front of a sugar sugar model of o[ Grosvenor House, London Grosvenor

or COLLOP fish of any ESCALOPE or - Slices of meat or fish slightly and fried in butter or sorne kind, flattened slightly some other fat. In fonner former times the tenn was used of ln of a dish of sliced meat, instance, sliced mutton would be be called une escalope for instance, escalope de mouton. mouton. generally cut Veal escalopes escalopes are are generally cut from from the the fil1et fillet (U.S. Veal (U.S. rib) end of neck (U.S. rib) or the topside or round) or the best end silverside (U.S. rump). rump). silverside
sc.morB salad plant with wide, ESCAROLE. SCAROLE - Variety of salad grean leaves which are sometimes sometimes blanched by curled, dark green being surrounded with with earth earth or or being cultivated in cellars cultivated in cellars in the dark.

ESCOFFIER, ESCOFFIE& AUGUSTE - Auguste Escoffier was born at little town town in in the the AlpesVilleneuve-Loubet, Villeneuve-Loubet, a a channing charming little He began the age age of Maritimes, in in 1847. 1847. He career at at the began his his career Maritimes, twelve, and became a very great cook. Echenard, two with Ritz RiCI and and Echenard, ln In 1890, 1890, in in association association with masters of the hotel business, he opened the Savoy Hotel in remaind in this illustrious establishment until London, and remained direction of 1898 when, for personal reasons, he gave up the direction those of the the Carlton the the Savoy kitchens to take charge charge of those Hotel, then one of the most famous in Europe. prestige of As a reward for all he had done to enhance the prestige French cooking throughout the world, Escoffier was was made in 1920, and Officer of a Chevalier of the Legion of Honour in Legion in in 1928. the Legion regarded Escoffier's culinary career was brilliant. He was regarded kitchens, upon emperor world's title peror of the world 's ki tchens, a ti tle conferred u pon as the em II, who spent some time on him by the spent sorne the Emperor Emperor William II, him Hamburg-America Line, which the steamer Imperator of of the Hamburg-America steamer Imperator charge of the imperial kitchens. Escoffier had joined to take charge In the course of Emperor, ln of a conversation conversation with Escoffier, the Emperor, 'I am am the Emperor of Gennany, Germany, congratulating him, said: said: '1 are the Emperor Emperor of chefs.' chefs.' but you are in 1921. 1921. He was then seventy-four years Escoffier retired retired in In ail art for sixty-two years. In all of age had practised his art age and and had is no no other example of such a the history of cookery, there is 1935, nearly career. He died in February February 1935, long professional career. eighty-nine eighty-nine years old. The culinary writings of Escoffier are works of authority. collaboraThe best-known best-known are le Guide culinaire, written in collabora/e Livre Gilbert and and Emile Fetu; le mile Fetu; Livre des tion tion with with Philas Phil6as Gilbert le Riz; Ie Carnet m cire; cire; Ma cuisine; le Ies Fleurs Ma cuisine; Riz; le menus; Fleurs en menus; les
d'picure. d'Epicure. in 1893, 1893, honoured the It the Australian It was who, in was Escoffier who, singer, Melba, by creating the peach dish that bears singer, Nellie Melba, her name. invented the the dodine au m Chambertin and and her He also name. He also invented named after a a ship that the chaud-froid Jeannette, the latter named the Polar Polar ice. ice. Many delicate culinary trapped in was in the Many delicate was trapped creations are associated with his name.

ESPAGNOLE basic brown sauces. ESPAGNOLE SAUCE One of the the basic - One which indicates It is is also also called sauce-mre sauce-mire (mother-sauce) which derivative that it can be used as a basis for a large number of derivative brown sauces. calledpetite-espagnole. petite-espagnole. This is Carme's Cardme's recipe for what he called
362

ESSENCE ESSENCE
'Take a deep saucepan. saucepan. Put in 2 slices of Bayonne ham. ham. Place Place on on top a noix of veal veal and 2 partridges. Add enough stock to ta cover caver the veal only. Boil down the liquid rapidly. Move Move the the pan to a cooler cooler part of the stove to extract exlract all the juice juice from the the contents. contents. When the the stock is reduced to ta a coating coating on the bottom of veal with the pan, remove remove it il from the stove. Prick Prick the nox noix of ofveal the the point of of a knife knife so sa that that its its juice juice mingles mingles with the the essence. Put Put the saucepan saucepan back on the stove stove on a low heat and leave for about I 1 hour. Watch Watch the essence as it gradually gradually turns to to a clear red colour. 'To simplify simplify this operation, operation, scrape offa little of the essence with the point of a a knife. Roll it it between the fingers. fingers. If If it it rolls into a ball, bail, the essence is perfectly perfectly reduced. reduced. If If it is not, nOl, it will stick the fingers fingers together. 'Remove the saucepan saucepan from the stove and put it aside for 15 minutes for the essence to cool. It will then dissolve more readily. Fill Fil! the saucepan with clear c1ear soup or stock and and heat heal very slowly. As soon as it il comes cornes to the boil,skim boil, .skim it, il, and pour pour 2ladles into inlo a a roux.' For the 1he preparation of this ronx: roux: 'Melt 100 g. (4 oz., ! butter and add to it sieved flour i cup) "up) a low heat, to a rather liquid roux. Put it Lo make a it on a heat, stirring of the from from time time to to time time so sn that that little liltle by by little little the the whole whole of mixture turns a golden colom. colour. When adding the liquid, do rorx must not be on the stove while you not forget rorgel that Ihat the roux stock; but it are mixing are mixi ng in in the first spoonfuls of stock; it should be put on later, so that it may be added boiling boiliDg hot to the the rest of the stock. roux, stir the roux, 'When 'When the 2 ladles ladIes of stock are poured into the so as to ta make the mixture mixture perfectly smooth. Now pour it into Add parsley and and spring the the veal noix. noix. Add the saucepan with with the a little seasoned wilh with j bay leaf, onions, seasoned Ieaf, a liule thyme, 2 chives, and mushroom mushroom trimmings. Leave to simmer, stirring frequently. full hour skim off the fat. 30 minutes later skim off After a full the fat fat again. 'Strain through a clolh cloth into a bowl, stirring from time to Ihrough a on the that no no scum scum forms on time with a wooden spoon spoon so so that time with a is exposed to to the the sauce sauce is surface, as as easily easily happens when the surface, (Extract from entries royal; Traiti des entres from le le Pdtissier air.' (Extracl air.' Ptissier royal:
chaudes.)

For For drinks, drinks., the the ceremonial ceremonial was was equally equally complicated. complicated. When the the king called for for a drink, drink, the the cup cup bearer hearer made made a sign to the the wine butler and his his assistant. The first first of of these thes.e brought the the wine in in a flagon, and the king's king's glass, covered; the the second brought brought a silver silver jug jug full full of of water. The cup bearer bearer took took the glass and uncovered uncovered it; il; the wine wine butler butler poured poured in in the the wine, wine, then then the water. water. The cup bearer poured poured some sorne of of this this watered wine into into two little little silver-gilt cups. cups. He He drank drank from one; the wine butler buller drank from the other. Only OnJy then then did d id the the cup bearer bearer proffer proffer the the cup, now covered covered once more, more, across the table to to the king. He did not not uncover it it until until the very moment moment that the king was about to to drink. drink. The same same ceremonial took lOok place place for the queen. By special favour, Louis Louis XIV bestowed bestowed the same prerogative prerogative upon the dauphine dauphine (the (the wife of the heir to the throne). throne).
and volatile, ESSENCE ESSENCE - A A liquid, liquid, usually usually oily oily and volatile, extracted by the distillation distillation of vegetable substances in in water: water: essence of cinnamon, of anise, cinna mon, lemon, oranges, oranges, roses, roses, etc. Essences Essences are are used used in in aromatherapy aromatherapy to to combat combat various various complaints. Fifteen Fifteen of these appear appear in the Codex. Anchovy essence. essence. EssENcE ESSENCE D'ANcHoIs D'ANCHOIS - A A commercial commercial product product which is used in the preparation preparation of of Anchovy butter (see BUTTER, and to Compound butters'S BUTTER, Compound (see butlers) and to flavour flavour certain
sauces, sauces, stuffings, salads, etc. Bitter ahnond essence. essence. EssENcE ESSENCE D'AMANDES D'AMANDES e,utnrs AM12RES - A A

product commercially. product which is made and sold co:mnnel'cl<llIy as for cERFHm Chervil Cbenil essnce. essence. EssENcE ESSENCE DE DE CERFEUIL for - Proceod as of tarragon. Tarragon essence, using using chervil in in place of pint, EssENcE oE Cofree ~nce.. essence. ESSENCE DE clrf Pour 5 dl. dl. (scant (scant pin!, - Pour (7 oz., ground g. (7 o2.,2$ on 200 2| cups) cups) boiling boiling water water on 200 g. 2t cups) cups) ground liquid througb through the coffee placed in a filter. tilter. Pour the resulting liquid filter again. Cool filter again. Cool and and bottle boule it. il. Use Use to to flavour ftavour creams,
mochas, etc. (scant pint, For 5 5 dl. dl. (seant DE polssoN ESsENcE DE Fish essence.. essence. ESSENCE Fisb POISSON - For put in kg. (2 and trimI kg. in a a saucepan: saucepan: J 2{ cups), cups), put 2t lb.) bones and QL4lb.) fish, J I small sliced mings ofsole, of sole, whiting, brill briU or other white fish, (a oz.) mushroom trimmings, a sprig of parsley, lm g. (4 onion, 100 juice. Moisten pints, Moisten with I litre (l| pints, and a few and few drops lemon juice. pint, seant scant quart) strained fish and 2 dl. dl. (t fish stock stock and generous quart) $ pnt, cup) white wine. minutes. for 30 30 to to 35 35 minutes. Boil steadily for Bring to the boil. boit Skim. Boil half its volume. to half Boil down to muslin. Boil Strain through muslin. volume. poaching used for for po,lchmg is used fairly rich, rich, is which is is fairly This essence, essence, which This preparation of to be of sauces sauces to in the fish. It It can used in also be be used can also fish. the preparation fish. served with fish. boiled Game stock stock boiled DE GIBIER GIBIER - Game EssENcE DE essence. ESSEN Game essence. Game jelly. of thick thick meat jelly. to the the consistency consistency of down to wine or or D'AIL boiling white wine EssENcE D'AD.. Garlic essence. ESSENCE - Pour boiling garlic, strain and down. and boil boil down. vinegar onto cru crushed shed cloves of garlic, The DE CHAMPIGNONS cHAMPIcNoNS - The EssENcE DE Mushrom essence. essence. ESSENCE been mushrooms have been liquid, greatly concentrated, in which mushrooms used to to flavour flavour sauces. cooked. It is used p'fcgAlorn D'oIcNoN, D'CHALOTE ESsENCE D'OIGNON, shallot essence. e{xlnce" ESSENCE Onion and and sballot On.ioo or in white white wine wine or onions or or shallots shallots in Infuse finely finely sliced sliced (>Dions - Infuse vinegar. pERsIL - Proceed as for for EssENcts DE DE PERSD.. Proceed as Parsley essence.. essence. ESSENCE Tarragon essence. Tarragon An infusion infusion of of D'EsrRlcoN - An essence. ESSENCE EssENcE D'ESTRAGON Tarragon essence. vinegar, strained strained and reduced. white wine or vnegar, fresh tarragon in whte g. Rub 500 500 g. ESSENcE DE DE TOMA ToMATES Tomato essence. esserrce. ESSENCE Tomato TES - Rub (generous 1 tomatoes through a a fine fine sieve. sieve. I lb.) very ripe raw raw tomatoes pulp until il to half half ilS its volume. volume. Pass Pass it is reduced reduced to Boil the the pulp pulp pressing hard Boil this this pulp hard with with a a spoon. spoon. Boil through a a sieve, sieve, pressing through Rub througb through a syrupy syrupy consistency. consistency. Rub until it thickens thickens ta to a until muslin. jelly kind of makes a a kind of jelly in this this way, way, tomato tomato pulp makes Cooked in Cooked days. It is used as for several as an an additional additional can be kept for several days. which can

instead of of a a noix, veal is is used usod instead Nowadays, a a shoulder of veal (See SA SAUCE, usod n in the the stock. stock. (See and partridge s is not and not used VeE, DEMI-ESPAGNOLE.) sauce. See See al50 also DEMI-ESPAGNOLE.) Espagnole sauce.

proof a1cohol. alcohol. ESPRIT-DE-VIN ESPRITDE-VlN - 84" praof

",",-",-,,-,.....,..a;.,

high dignitary A servant servant or or high ESQUIRE TRENCHANT -A great in great In former former tmes, times, in at ceremonial banquets. banquets. In at (or cuyer trenchant) was was icuyer trenchant) households, the trenchant (or the esquire esquire trenchani hOlllsehQ.lds, households, the in rank. rank. ln In lesser households, second to to the the major-domo major-domo in second two offices were combined. two
officiating uU~'''><''JJ.'5

ESSAI or ESSAY The essai essai at at the French royal courts was ESSAl - The the ceremony the king's food food and drink. The The cups ceremony of of lasting tasting the which were were used for tasting tasting wines etc. were were alsa also ca called used for wines etc. which lied essais. poison in gave rise The fear fear of in the the Middle Middle Ages Ages gave rise to to a of poison a The the sovereign's sovereign's meals. complicated ceremonial ceremonial attending attending the In France, this minutely regulated regulated by by court etiquette, court etiquette, this was was minutely In continued with slighl slight modifications modifications up up to to the the Revoluwhich continued tion, ta to be be revived revived under under the the Empire. tion, spices, and napkin knife, fork, The knife, fork, spoon, salt salt cellar, cellar, spices, and napkin The (q.v.) Of locked in in tbe the cadenas (q.v.) or nef(q.v.). nef (q.v.). were locked The malre maitre d'hlel the cutlery and the the dishes dishes d'h6tel rubbed cutlery and rubbed ail all the The with baUs balls of breadcrumbs which he made sure sure were eaten by which he were eaten by with had subjected the squires squires of subjected of the the pantry, who, who, previously, had the the servants servants who who had handed them them the the dishes to to the the same same the ordeal. ordeal.
363 363

it

ESTAMINET ESTAMINET
ingredient for for sauces, sauces, stuffings, stuffings, and and other other mixtures. mixtures. ingredient Trufle essence. essence. ESSENCE EssENcE DE peelings DE TRUFFES TRUFFEs -- Truflle Truffie peelings Truffle infused in in Madeira Madeira or or any any other other heavy heavy wine. wine. infused
caused, especially especially in in wine, wine, by by too too long long exposure exposure to to the caused, the air. air. The taste taste of of vent ivent is is the the washy flavour in washy flavour in wine wine which which has has lost lost The its aroma aroma through through oxidation. oxidation. its

ESTAMINET given in Name given in former former times times in in France France to to EST AMINEf -- Name patrons were permitted to cafes where where patrons were permitted to smoke. smoke. cafs Nowadays, the the word word is is used used of of a a basement basement lavern. tavern. Nowadays,
ESTOUFFADE -- Name Name applied applied bolh to aa dish both 10 dish whose whose ESTOUFFADE ingredients are are slowly slowly stewed, stewed, and and to to a a clear clear brown brown stock stock ingredients used to to dilute dilute sauces sauces or to moisten or to moisten braised braised meat meat and and used ragofrts. ragots. ESTOUFT'AT -- Languedoc Languedoc dialect dialect fonn form of of the the word word ESTOUFFAT (dish stewed ituvie (dish stewed very very slowly). slowly). In In that that region region it it is is mainlv mainly tuve used to to design designate pork. a stew stew of of haricot haricot beans beans and and pork. used a te a EfOUfffn -- Method Method of of cooking food in cooking food in a a tightly tightly c10sed closed TOUFFE vessel with very little little Iiquid with very liquid or or ev even without liquid, liquid, often often vessel en without called d l'lUve. l'ituvie. called given in ffOUnOnAU -- Name parts of Name given in sorne some parIS of France France ta to a a TOURnEAU young capon. capon. young
(See TOUFFE.) EfWfn -- Method Method of of cooking cooking food. food. (See irourreE.) TUVE

EVERLASTING PEA. PEA. JAROSSE, JARossE, JAROUSSE JARous$ -- Popular Popular name name EVERLASTING for the the cultivated cultivated vetch. vetch. ln In France, France, it it is is also also sometimes sometimes for called Auvergne Auvergne len/il. lentil. called
EWE. BREBIS BREBIs -- The young, is The flesh flesh of of a a ewe, ewe, when EWE. when young, is used used as as (q.v.). ordinary mutton mutton (q.v.). ordinary In sorne some regions regions of of southwestern south-western France, France, ewe's ewe's meat ln meat is is pickled in pork. in the the same same way way as as pork. pickled EWER. AIGUIRE ucurinr -- Vesse! Vessel for for containing containing water EWER. water for for service service at table. table. The The word word aiguire aiguidre cornes comes from from Old Old French French aigue at aigue (water). (water). goes back The ewer ewer goes back to to antiquity. antiquity. Ils Its main main features features have have The not changed general, il changed much. much. In In general, it is is a vessel of a vessel of elongated elongated form, form, not with base, base, handle handle and precious stones, and spout. spout. Gold, Gold, precious stones, and the and the wilh finest enamels enamels were were used used for for the the ewers ewers on on the the tables tables of finest of the the past centuries. French nobility in in past centuries. One One of of the the most most beautiful beautiful French examples is is in in chased chased silver silver and part of and was was pari of the the treasure examples in 1830 at at Berthonville, Berthonville, near Bernay, Bernay, in in Ihe the Eure. Eure. discovered in It is kept kept in in the the museum of of medals in in the French Bibliothque Bibliothdque l! Nationale. EXCELSIOR See CHEESE. CHEESE. EXCELSIOR - See EXOCOBTUS. EXOCET rxocrr -- This This fish, fish, commonly commonly known known as EXOCOETUS. prepared in is edibJe. edible. It It is is prepared in the the same flying fish, is same way way as flyinS fish, mackerel (q.v.).

EfWnn -- To To cook cook food food in pan, without in a a covered covered pao, without liquid. liquid. TUVER This method method is is suitable suitable for for aIl poultry, all kinds kinds of of meat, meat, poultry, This vegetables, and and fruit. fruit. A A little little butter, butter, fat f,at or or oil oil should should be vegetables, added. added.
EUPHORISM. EUPHORISME eupHoRrsME - Euphorism Euphorism is is a a new art of of EliPHORISM. new art living that aims aims to to encourage encourage the the expansion expansion of of Ihe the human living that personality physical and and moral moral equilibrium. equilibrium. In In its persona lity through through physical attempt to to cultivate joie de cultivate an an optirnistic optimistic outlook outlook of of joie fu vivre vivre attempt good humour, and good euphorism depends depends 10 to a a large and humour, euphorism large extent on gastronomy. gastronomy. Doctor Pierre Vachet, a disciple disciple of of this Doctor Pierre Vachet, a this philosophy, philosophy, believes that gastronomy has an important imporlant r6le rle to play play in belleves that gastronomy has an the happiness. Like of happiness. Like art, art, it it has has its ilS rules; rules; whether the pursuit pursuit of it simple country it proposes proposes a a simple country meal meal or or a a sumptuous sumptuous banquet, the satisfied. the taste tasle buds buds and and the Ihe mind mind must must be be equally equally satisfied. The The gourmet gourmet generally generally knows knows very very well weil how how to to blend the delights delights of of the the palate palate with wilh visual visu al and and mental mental stimulation. stimulation. The The pleasure pleasure it it gives gives him him to to taste tasle wines wines and and savour savour the chefs-d'euvre French cuisine chefsd'uvre of of French cuisine can can be be likened likened to to the joy joy other other people people derive denve from from listening hstemng to ta a a beautiful beautiful symphony symphony gazing at or or gazing at a a fine fine painting. painting. The author of of Maladies Maladies de de Ia la vie vie moderne moderne declares: declares: 'Taste 'Taste The author and and flavours flavours are are precious precious elements eJemenlS of of euphorism euphorism for, for, when properly applied, properly applied, our our sense sense of of taste tas te adds adds greatly greatly to 10 our our physical physicai and and psychic psychic pleasure. pleasure. 'The 'The sense sense of of taste tasle should should therefore therefore be be educated and cultivated cultivated to to a a great great extent extent in in order order to to develop develop the the taste las te buds, buds, so 50 that that we we learn lcarn to to appreciate appreciate each each separate separate flavour flavour of of whatever whatever we we consume. consume. By Dy analysing analysing the the qualities qualities and and defects defects of of food, food, by by knowing knowing how how truly truly to 10 savour savour a a wine, wine, we we shall shall acquire acquire through through practice practice a a much much wider wider range range of of sensory sensory resources. resources. 'Only 'Only by by this trus kind kind of of education education and and discipline discipline can can gastronomy gastronomy take take its ils rightful rightful place place in in the the epicurism epicurism of of modern modern times, limes, euphorism.' euphorism.' There There is is a a Euphorists' Euphorists' Club. Club. EVnf.m is VENT - French French name name for for the the deterioration deterioration which which is

EXTRACT. EXTRAIT ExrRArr -- Product Product obtained obtained by by evaporating evaporating EXTRACr. juice. The cooking stock of meat, boiled animal or vegetable vegetable juice. alllmai pan, is a coaling coating in the the pan, is an an extract. down to a The extracts most commonly commonly used used are those of beef, veal, poultry and and game. poultry Extracts are called essences or .fumets. The term fish are fumels. The lerm Extracls of fish extended to can be cover concentra concentrated can be extended to coyer ted vegetable vegetable essences essences which wltich are made from root vegetables vegelables and from mushrooms, tomatoes, toma tocs, and truffies. Iruffies. Among the vegetable vegetable extracts used in the kitchen is soya soya sauce if added added to 10 coulis (q.v.), ragofrts ragots (q:v.), and sauce which, if other other meat meal or or vegetarian vegetarian dishes, dishes, enhances enhances their their flavour without destroying destroying their own particular taste. Chicken exhact. exlracl. cLAcE GLACE DE DE voLATLLE VOLAILLE - Boil Boil down clear chicken stock in the same way as indicated indicaled in the recipe recipe for Meat Meal extracl extract (see (sec below). Fish Fish extract. exlracl cLAcE GLACE DE DE porssoN POISSON - See See ESSENCE, ESSENCE, Frs& Fish essence. essence. Game extract. exlracl. cLAcE GLACE DE DE GTBTER GlBIER - Boil Boil down dowll clear game game stock in in the the same way as as for Meat Meal extract exlracl (see (see below). below). Meat Meat extract. exlract. cLAcE GLACE DE DE VTANDE VIANDE - Boil down to to half half its its volume 10 litres (9 (9 quarts, quarts, ll Il quarts) quarts) brown brown stock. stock. Remove Remove volume l0litres all as possible. possible. Strain Strain through through ail fat, fal, leaving leaving the the stock stock as as clear clear as muslin, and boil boil down down further. further. Strain, Slrain, and and repeat repeat the the musli n, and procedure of a a spoon. spoon. Each Each procedure until untiJ the the stock stock coats coats the the back back of time is strained, strained, transfer transfer the the stock stock to to a a smaller smaller saucepan, saucepan, time it it is and and reduce reduce the the heat heat as as the the stock stock thickens. thickcns. Pour Pour the the extract extract into into little little jars jars and and keep keep in in a a cool cool place. place. Meat Meat extrrcts exlracts (commercially (commerciaUy prepared). prepared). ExrRArrs EXTRAITS DE DE VHNDE VIANDE DU DU coMMERcr COMMERCE - These These extracts, exlracts, which which are are manumanufactured in household household factured commercially, commercially, are are mainly mainly used used in kitchens. kitchens.

3g 364

pancreas, and sometimes pancreas, calves' sweetbreads. sometimes to calves'

FAGOUE Name given given in to the tripe-trade to FAGOLIE in the the French French tripe-trade - Name FAENCE is whitish whitish in which is FA'IENCE type of pottery which - Opaque type colour or tinted. The earthenware glaze tin glaze earthenware is is covered covered with with tin (lead glaze made opaque ashes) so that opaque by the addition of tin ashes) the masked. This This is completely masked. the colour of the the earthenware is pottery takes its Faenza. from the the Italian town town of of Faenza. its name from Very faience pottery, the origins of faence Very little is is known known about the but vitreous lead lead times a a brilliant, brilliant, vitreous but from from the earliest times very earliest the very glaze, coloured by means of metallic oxides, known to to oxides, was was known potters. It is be seen in the of Ancient Egypt, Egypt, is to be seen in the hypogeum of on glazd bricks and also also on on the the glazed on its its vases, vases, funeral funeral images, and which and Babylon. walls of Nineveh and which decorated decoratod the the walls The preserved for have preserved for Asia Minor Minor have The ancient mosques of Asia us the Persians, Persians, who who of the craftsmanship of us the the magnificent magnificent craftsmanship passed passed on the Arabs. to the on their their skill skill to From the thirteenth centres there were were important centres thirteenth century there for Malaga and and faience in in Spain, Spain, at at Malaga for the the manufacture of faence manufacture of Majorca, majolica. Up Up to to its name to to the the Italian Italian majolica. Majorca, which gave its the in famous factories were were in the most most famous the seventeenth seventeenth century the Valencia. of tin tin discovery of mainly through through the the discovery Valencia. But But it it was was mainly glaze glazn by the middle middle of of the the towards the Robbia towards by Luca Luca della della Robbia fifteenth to industry was was able able to that the the ceramic ceramic industry fifteenth century, century, that develop, various other other Italian Italian and then then in in various first at at Faenza Faenza and develop, first towns, Druta, Durante, Durante, Venice, Venice, Gubbio, Druta, notably Urbino, Urbino, Gubbio, towns, notably Milan Milan and and Turin. Turin. ln pottery called faience pottery called sixteenth century, century, faence In France, France, in in the the sixteenth Henry being the the was made, made, the the most most important being Henry II II faence faience was very individual pieces pieces made During the the Bernard Palissy. Palissy. During made by by Bernard same potters tried period Italian faience to introduce introduce the the faence ltalian potters tried to same period industry from Savona, Savona, The Conradi, coming from Conradi, coming industry into into France. France. The settled to make make faence faience attempts to abortive attempts settled at at Nevers. Nevers. Early Early abortive in it was was sixteenth century, century, but but it Rouen were made in in the the sixteenth in Rouen were made only produced the the century that that this this town town produced only in in the the seventeenth seventeenth century beautiful glories of the of the the glories of the which remain remain one one of beautiful specimens specimens which French very fashionable fashionable in in the the These were were very French faence faience industry. industry. These eighteenth in copied everywhere, everywhere, both both in and were were copied eighteenth century century and France the Moustiers, from from the the end end of of the countries. Moustiers, France and and other other countries. seventeenth pieces in style faience pieces in the the style made famous famous faence century, made seventeenth century, ofTempesta, from Bernard Bernard Toro. Toro. from Brain B6rain and and from of Tempest4 or or copied copied from At Hannong the Hannong century, the in the the eighteenth eighteenth century, At Strasbourg, Strasbourg, in family quickly adopted the adopted by by the family created a style style which which was was quickly created a facto ries of Niederwiller. In In Paris, Paris, SaintSaintfactories and Niederwiller. of Lunville Lun6ville and Cloud, a were also also a Marseille, there there were Meudon, Lille, Lille, and and Marseille, Cloud, Meudon, large important factories. factories. large number number of less important of less Outside produced at at finest work work was was produced France, sorne some of of the the finest Outside France, Delft the most most active active for a long time, time, the Holland, which was, for a long Delft in in HoHand, which was,
365 365

centre Europe. of the the faence faience industry industry in in Europe. centre of pottery, made pottery, called Fine made its its appearance appearance Fine pottery, called clay clay pottery, towards and this this century, and the middle middle of of the the eighteenth eighteenth century, towards the industry in the towns fully developed developed in in England, England, in the towns industry was was most most fully pottery was of of pottery In France, France, this this type type of was of Leeds Leeds and and Burslem. Burslem. In made and Lun6ville and at Pont-aux-Choux, Paris, Lunville mdde especially especially at Pont-aux-Choux, Paris, Orlans. Orl6ans. With vent of porcelain, faence less soughtsoughtfaience became became less With the the ad advent of porcelain, after faience manuhighly-prized. But But modem modern faence manuafter and and less less highly-prized. pottery. facturers given a new lease lease of life to to this this type type of of pottery. facturers have have given a new of life FAISANDAGE FAISANDAGE for red red meat French term term for in the the condition condition meat in - French which, 'high'. It whictU in in England, England, is is known known as as 'high'. It is is derived derived from from faisan (pheasant). faisan (pheasant). When pheasant is When it it is is fresh, is tough tough and and without without much much fresh, pheasant ftavour. grows tender flavour. It It grows develops after tender and and its its aroma aroma develops after it it has has been been hung, hung, the length of of time depending upon upon the the temperatemperathe length time depending ture. pheasant is hung, as as advocated advocated ture. Nowadays, Nowadays, pheasant is no no longer longer hung, by 'until it it develops develops a a marked marked smell'. smell'. Montaigne, 'until by Montaigne, ln pheasant was was not In Brillat-Savarin's time, pheasant not considered fit Brillat-Savarin's time, considered fit for gastronome's table for the the gastronome's table except except in in aa state state of of complete complete putrefaction. putrefaction. This This authority authority recommends, recommends, in in effect, effect, that that it it should green, so should be be kept, kept, unplucked, unplucked, until until its its breast breast turns turns green, so that held together that for for roasting roasting on on the the spit spit it it has has to to be be held together by by aa slice slice of of bread bread tied tied on on with ribbon. with ribbon. Apart Apart from from a a few few sportsmen sportsmen in in love love with with tradition, tradition, most most people people have have today today abandoned abandoned these these excesses. excesses. Winged game, when game and ground game, for aa certain hung for Winged game and ground when hung certain length pheasant. length of acquire a flavour similar similar to to that that of of pheasant. of time, time, acquire a ftavour This properly high is habit of This habit of hanging hanging meat meat until until it it is is high is properly reprehended reprehendod by those concerned concerned with hygiene, and and also also by by by those with hygiene, the gastronome. the true true gastronome. FAISANDEAU pheasant. FAISAhIDEAU -- Young Young pheasant. FAIS ELLE. FAISSELLE pottery basket used for for basket used Osier or or pottery FAIssELLE -- Osier FAISELLE. draining residue the apple apple residue on which which the Also the the table table on draining cheese. cheese. Also is brewing of of cider. cider. drained after after the the brewing is drained FALCON. prey, trained hunt on on the the trained to to hunt FAUcoN -- Bird Bird of of prey, FALCON. FAUCON wing. and the French French botanist botanist and to Tournefort, Tournefort, the wing. According According to traveller, (165G1708), it be need not not be it is delicate to to eat eat and and need is delicate traveller, (1656--1708), hung. hung. FALERNIAN celewine celeFALERNIAN WINE. Campagna wine WINE. FALERNE FALERNE -- Campagna brated poet Horace. brated in in verse verse by Horace. by the the poet FALLOW-DEER. FALLOW-DEER. DAIM DAtIra -- Wild Wild ruminant, ruminant, somewhat somewhat rare rare in in France. France. It It is is known known as as afawn afawn up up to to eight eight months. months. It It loses loses its grown. A grown fallowits horns horns twice fully grown. twice before before it it is is fully A fully fully grownfallow-

FAIENCE FAENCE

FAYENCE TABLEWARE TABLEWARE FAIENCE From top (op to 10 bottom: bOllom: Antique Antique faience faence of of Nevers, Nevers, Strasbourg, Strasbourg, From Rouen; Modern Modern fai'ence faence from from Jean Jean Luce Luce Rouen;

366

FAT
deer can be recognised by the palms between between the the branches branches of its antlers. The female female of the fallow-deer fallow-deer is is called a doe. the The meat of young fallow-deer very delicate. delicate. That That of orthe fallow-deer is very full-grown animal is leathery leathery arxC and must must be be steeped steeped in in a marinade. All AU recipes for roebuck (q.v.) (q.v.) are suitable for fallow-deer. fallow-deer. Roast RoaSi haunch baunch of of fallow-deer faUow-deer I Il I'anglaise. HANcm HANCffi DE DE DAIM DAIM n0rrs RT .i, L'ANGLAIs L'ANGLAISE - The haunch haunch of fallow-deer fallow-deer (venison) (venson) is highly prized in England England and is hung for quite quite a long time until it is high. It Il keeps very well weil for several days if if care is taken to hang it in a a room room well weli aired airOO by a draught. Before hanging, the venison should be rubbed rubbOO all ail over with a mixture of flour and pepper. The The purpose purpose of of the flour is to keep out the damp and that of the pepper is i5 to keep keep away the flies. Before impaling the venison on the spiq spit, trim triro it and coat with ordinary flour-and-water paste. paste. Wrap it, coated with this securOO with several lengths of of lhis mixture, mlxture, in thick paper secured string. Roast for 4 hours, basting frequently. frequently. (Care (Care must be taken not to cut cUI the fat fat offthe off Ihe venison. The fatter it is the fa \ter il Ihe better.) better.) Ten minutes minutes before before removing T"PYT"lA'VII110 the roast from the spit, Ten ofl the unwrap unwrap it it and and scrape off the flour-and-water paste. Pour salt and sprinkle with salt and sprinkle melted over the venison venson and meltoo butter over il doser thal it il is well weil browned. flour. Put it closer to the fire so that serve boiled With roast haunch of venison, it is is usual usual to serve and redcurrant jelly. chestnut pur6e, and French or chestnut French beans beans or Haunch of stag is is cooked in the same way, but is is less highly prized prizOO than than that of fallow-deer.

It 11

can a breast breast of of veal veal with with can also also be be made made by by stuffing a
a

forcemeat, cooking it it in in the the liquid Iiquid of forcemeat. cooking

pot-au-feu pot-au-feu (q.v.). (q.v.).

- Containing flour l'lOlif or or with with a a high starch rontent. Cereals, Cereals. pulses, and potatoes potatoes are are usually usually starch content. referred to as farinaceous farinaceous foods.

FARINACEOUS. FARINACEOUS. rlnNeux FARINEUX

FARINADA fARINADA (Genoese (Genoese cookery) cookery) - Gruel Gruel made made from from the flour f10ur of of large large white white peas. peas. When cooked it il is poured pourOO onto an oiled oilOO board, board, cut cut into into equal-sized pieces, pieces, and and served served as as it il is. is. It is FARO FAROis relatively relatively - Belgian beer, only slightly fermented. 1t sour and often has sugar added to it. il.

FAR FAR POITEVIN - A A kind knd of farci (q.v.) made in Poitou from and herbs (sorrel, green cabbage, from green vegetables vegetables and white beet tops, tops. lettuce). lettucc). These These are are shredded raw, raw, mixed with pork fat, fat, blended blendOO with with cream cream and and eggs, eggs, with chopped choppOO pork
flavoured chives and parsley, parsley, highly highly seasoned, seasonOO, ftavoured with chopped chives and wrapped in green cabbage leaves leaves and lettuce leaves lcaves (put (put in a net). It is then cooked in a hotpot containing fresh rresh and salt pork and flavoured with vegetables. (U.S. shell) FASEOLE haricot (V.S. shell) bean, cultivated cultivated FASOLE - Species of haricot in southem southern regions. Prepared in the same same way as as Fresh Presh white haricot beans (see BEAN).

(Confectionery) FANCHETTE or or FANCHONNETTE (COnfectiOIlCry) FAI\CHETTE is scarcely gdteau, which was very popular in Ihe the past, is This gteau, It is it is excellent. Il a pity because il This is ever made made today. today. This is a is excellent. ever for used for to that that usOO round baking tin tin similar ta deep, round in a made a deep, made in hot pdtis. pls. Line a baking tin with flaky pastry dough which has been Fill this times. Fill rolled out out and folded into 3 upon itself, 6 times. rollOO cream, crust with a cream which is made like French pastry cream, (4 oz., g. (4 yolks, 100 100 g. 12 egg egg yolks, ingredients: 12 with the the following ingrOOients: with (4 oz., g. (4 flour, 5 dl. oz., 1 I cup) flour, scant cup) powdered sugar, 100 g. (scant pint,Zlcups) frestr thick cream, I tablespoon vanillacream, 1 ofsalt. flavoured sugar, a pinch of salt. it is is cold, cold, cover cover When it a slow slow oven. oven. When the gdteau in a Bake Bake the meringue piped top with with meringue the top Decorate tbe meringue. Decorate with with meringue. Brown in in the sugar. Brown with sugar. Sprinkle with forcing bag. bag. Sprinkle through a a forcing oven. Serve warm. wann. subbe submay be cream, elc. etc. may or almond almond cream, Coffee, chocolate, chocolate, or stituted for vanilla cream.
green or or dry, dry, the stalks, stalks, green in France France to to the FAI\FS - Name given in for fodder. of plants nol not cultivated for edible. Turnip Turnip stalks stalks are edible. The fanes of sorne some pot vegetables are (turnip tops) can only if if they they are are like spinach, spinach, but only can be cooked cooked lke (turnip soup is made From from radish radish 10ps, tops. is made tender. An An excellent excellent soup tender. on must appear appear on In France, France,thewordfantalsre FAI{TAISIE FANT A ISlE the wordfanlaisie must - In jams etc.). products (fantaisie liqueurs, jams etc.). label of synthetic produclS the label piece and not the piece and not sold by the France is is bread sold Pantaisie in France Fantaisie bread in by weight.
is flour. The The Lerm term is from hard-wheat l'lour. made from FAR Porridge made FAR - Porridge (tart) made made in in Brittany. Brittany. used for for a a flan flan (tart) also usOO also

in It is is cooked cooked in south of of France. France. Il in the the south FARCI Dish made made in F ARCl -- Dish form, its most most usual usual form, prepared in In its in different different ways. ways. In stock and and prepared stock other meat or or sorne some olher sausage meat stuffod with with sausage farci is the thefarci is cabbage cabbage stuffed (U.S. cheesecloth) and cheesecloth) and in muslin muslin (U.S. forcemeat, wrapped in forcemeat. cooked in in stock. cooked (see SOUFASSUM). Farci can SOUFASSUM). nigoise (see can also d la la nioise also be prepared Farci
367 367

at a substance which softens at FAT. cnusse FAT. GRAISSE - Greasy substance a low low and in some in animal temperature. It is temperature. Il is found found in animal tissue tissue and in sorne vegetable vegetable substances. animal tissue. all muscular animal There are are fats fats in in almost ail tissue. Fat Fal It fOnTIS forms deposits equal also surrounds many animal organs. It whole of the who to at at least a a thirtieth of the weight of to thirtieth of le body. stearin, olein There are three Ih ree principal constituents in fat: fat: stearin, normal temperatures, solid at at normal and margarine. Stearin Stearrn is and is solid consistency. olein is liquid, margarine has intermediate intermediate consistency. foods and they of al! all foods and they calorific value of Fats have the highest highest calorific the their being the cheap, but but two usually cheap, are usually are two factors factors prevent their of satiety more most valuable of aIl. all. They produce a feeling of a only tolerate a foods, and the system can only rapidly than other foods. (toleration pointvaries from individual limited amount offal of fat (toleration point varies from ndividual Iimited to individual). to natural fats: of na diet must conlam contain a proportion The normal d iet must proportion of tmal fats: (3 oz.) daily for for an adult. of 75 g. (3 an average of75 greater amount amount i5 is neOOed. needed. a far cold countries a In very cold far greater produced in in All falS fats produced o'fcoNotuIe -- AU fat. GRAISSE cRAIss D'CONOMIE Economy fat. Economy kinds, of various knds, preparation of and dripping ofvarious of pot-au-feu, the preparation pOI-au-feu, and preserved. collected and preserved. be carefully collected should he used in the cooking of of Once they are clarified, they can be usOO a variety of dishes. a fat skim off off aIl all the the fat economy fal. Clarification of economy Clarification fal. Carefully skim fine sieve sieve it through through a a fine of lhe the stock stockpot. on the the surface of on pot. Strain l to get cold cold overnight. Leave it it to bowl. Leave into an an earthenware bowl. into pour off, off, fat in in 2 places and and pour Next day, prick the of fat the layer of Next is underneath underneath the the liquid which is all the liquid holes, ail through the holes, fat. congealed fat. '-V'''I'i''<'''"'''' in the the cooking cooking liquid, the the fal fat can can be usOO used in its liqud, Separated from ilS 'Pl"'''T'''''''' (it s for braisOO recommended for braised is especially rccommendOO vegetables (it of vegetables of be used used for for frying. cannot be unless clarified, cannot cabbage) but, uoJess process as for frying, frying, proccss as follows: fat is is 10 to be used for When fat heat, then over low heat, Melt the fat in saucepan first.over low then over in a the fat a sauce Melt pan firstover giving off it stops stops giving off higher flame. flame. Keep Keep on on the the boil boil until until it a hgher a pan remove the the pan steam. As As soon soon as as the the steam steam stops stops rising, rcmove steam. the fat fat wiU and acqure acquire a a from the otherwise the will bum and stove; otherwise the stove; from sieve or or muslin, muslin. Pour Pour a fine fine sieve bitter fiavour. flavour. Strain Strain through through a bitter place. and store store in in a a cool. cool, dry dry place, into an an earthenware earthenware bowl bowl and into further improved improved by by the the addition addition of of a a third third This fat fat can can be be funher This lard. of its its weight of of lard. of A FRITURE rntrunr -- Generally Generally made made from from Frying fst GRAISSE cRAIss (suet). clarified beef kidney kidney fat fat (suet).

FATTENING FATTENING
FATTENING. ENGRAISSEMENT sNcRArssEMENr -- Fattening process of Fattening is is the the process of FATTENING. preparing animais animals for for slaughter slaughter by by increasing increasing their their weight weight preparing quality of and improving improving the thequality of their their flesh. flesh. This This is is made and mademore more nourishing and and flavoursome flavoursome by penetration of by the the penetration nourishing of fat fat between the the muscles, muscles, and and inside inside the the muscles muscles themselves. themselves. between

Bulbous Bulbousstem stem

offennel offennel

FAUBONNE -- A A thick thick soup soup made pur6e of made with with pure FAUBONNE of white white (U.S. shell) julienne of haricot (V.S. shell) beans plainjulienne beans with with aaplain haricot of vegetables vegetables (See SOVPS added. (See SOUPS AND AND BROTHS.) BROTHS.) added.
(Wild animais) I'AWES (Wild animals) -- French French hunting hunting tenn term used FAUVES used espeespecially of of animais animals of of the the deer family, such deer family, cially such as as stag, stag, fallow-deer, fallowdeer, chamois, and and roebuck, roebuck, as as opposed game such opposed to chamois, to black black game such as as boar, and game such and red red game such as fox. as fox. boar, FILEf, or FALIX FILET or CONTRE-FILET CONTRE-FILET -- See See BEEF, BEEF, Contre FAUX Contre filet. filet. FAVEROLLFS -- Name Name used used in in the the south FAVEROLLES south of France for of France for ail all (U.S. shell) kinds of haricot (V.S. of haricot shell) beans. beans. These These are kinds are also also called called and,favioles in this this region. region. faverottes favioles in faverottes and FAVRE -- Joseph Joseph Favre Favre was was not not only FAVRE only one greatest one of of the the greatest nineteenth-century chefs, chefs, but but also also one one of nineteenth-century of the the finest finest writers writers on culinary culinary matters. matters. He He was was the the author author of on of the the Dictionnaire Dictionnaire universel de de cuisine et d'hygine cuisine et d'hygiine alimentaire, alimentaire, a universel a work in four work in four volumes, which contains contains not not only only a volumes, a large number number of recipes, of recipes, but a a very very interesting history history of of cookery. cookery. but Joseph Favre Favre was was also also the founder of the founder Joseph of the the first first Academy Academy of Cookery. His His bust bust was was moved moved to of to l'Acadmie I'Acadimie culinaire culinaire de de in 1953. 1953. France in FAWN. FAoN -- The The young of a FA WN. FAON a roe-doe, roe-doe, hind hind or or fallow-doe. preparation of of fawn, see ROEBVCK. For the preparation ROEBUCK.

FEDELIM -- Italian pasta pasta in FEDELINI in the the fonn form of narrow narrow ribbons. All recipes for macaroni (q.v.) are suitable for fedelini. Ali
FEI\DANT (Wine) Name of a FENDANT a Valais Valais vine, vine, cultivated cultivated in - Name the Vaud Vaud Canton the Canton in in Switzerland, Switzerland, said said to to be be a variety of a variety of Chasselas. Wine made made from from Fendant grapes has Fendant grapes has a a strong aroma and is very heady. FENIYEL. FENourL FENNEL. FENOUIL Aromatic flowering flowering umbelliferous umbelliferous - Aromatic plant Italian origin which is now widely cultivated. It has plant of ltalian a slight flavour of aniseed. a The edible part The part of this this plant plant is is the the very very fleshy fleshy bulbous stem at the base of leaf stalk. This stem, which in French of the leaf cookery cookery is is callod called fenouil fenouil tubreux, which the tubireux, and and which the ltalians, Italians, who are very fond fond of it, finocchio, is is cooked like celery. it, cali call finocchio, It can eaten raw It can be be eaten raw or or cooked. cooked. In In England England it is called it is Florence Florence fennel. fennel. Both the bulbous stem and the leaves leaves of fennel plant of the fennel are are used used in cookery cookery to to flavour a a large large number of dishes. Fennel is an excellent condiment. condiment.

Fennel Fennelwith with bone-marrow. bonemarrow. FENOUIL FENourL ruoerrB-- Braise A LA rl MOELLE Braise in (see below). in meat meat stock stock (see below). Complete Completecooking cooking as asfor forCardoons Cardoons with (seeCARDOON). with marrow marrow (see CARDOON). Fennel Fennel braised braised in in meat meat stock. stock. FENOUIL FENourL AU AU GRAS cRAs - - Trirn Trim the the fennel fennel stems. stems. Parboil Parboil for for 5 5 minutes minutes in in boiling boiling salt salt water. water. Cool Cool under under running running water. water. Drain, Drain, and and dry dry in in aa clotho cloth. Quarter them or, or, if if they they are are small, small, leave leave whole. whole. Put Put them thern in in Quarter them an an ovenproof ovenproof dish pork skin, dish lined lined with with pork skin, and and sliced sliced onions onions and and carrots. carrots. Moisten Moisten with with aa few few tablespoons tablespoons rather rather fat fat stock. stock. Bring Bring to to the the boil. pan and boil. Coyer Cover the the pan and cook cook slowly slowly in in the the oyen. oven. Fennel Fennel in in cream. FENourL cream. FENOUn.. A LA u CRME cntrran -- Fennel Fennel stems, stems. simmered simmered in in butter butter or or braised braised in in meat meat stock stock as as indicated indicated above, put into above, can into aa cream can be be put cream sauce sauce and simmered for and simmered for aa few few minutes minutes before before serving. serving. Fennel gratin. FENOUIL Fennel au au gratin. FENourL AU AU GRATIN cRArrN -- Cook Cook the the fennel fennel stems stems in in butter butter or or braise braise in in meat meat stock. stock. Put Put them them in in aa buttered buttered ovenware ovenware dish, dish, sprinkle grated cheese, sprinkle with with grated cheese, and and pour pour on on melted melted butter. butter. Brown Brown in in the oven. the oyen. Fennel gravy. FENOUIL Fennel in in gravy. FENourL AU AU JUS JUs -- Braise Braise in in meat meat stock. stock. Simmer Simmer for for a a few few minutes minutes in in concentrated concentrated brown brown veal veal stock. stock. Fennel grecque. FENOUIL Fennel i la la grecque. FENourL r.l, GRECQUE cnrceus -- Proceed A LA Proceed as as indicated indicated for grecque. (See for Artichokes Artichokes (See ARTICHOKE.) d la la grecque. ARTICHOKE.) Fennel prepared in Fennel prepared in this this way way is is served served as as an an hors-d'oeuvre. hors-d'oeuvre. FENNEL-PEAR FENNELPEAR or or FENOWLET. FENOWLET. FENOUILLET FENouTLLET -- Variety Variety of of pear tes slightly pear which which tas tastes slightly of of aniseed. aniseed. Three Three varieties varieties are are grown grown in gris, fenouillet in France: fenouillet gros, and and the the fenouillet gris, fenouillet gros, fenouillet rouge. fenouillet rouge. FENNEL-WATER. FENNBLWATER. FENOUILLETTE FENourLLErre -- Liqueur Liqueur made made comcommercially, mercially, obtained from from fennel fennel seeds. seeds. FENUGREEK. FENUGREC reNucREc -- Vnusual Unusual Asiatic Asiatic herb herb with with slightly slightly bitter bitter aromatic aromatic seeds seeds sometimes sometimes used used in in making making curry. curry. FRA fEna of salmon found found in in Lake Lake Geneva Geneva and and several several - Breed of other lakes in in Switzerland, Bavaria, and and Austria. Austria. This fish fish is is similar to to the the laveret, laveret, but but the the two two differ differ in in body is is more shape. Thefra's Thefira'sbody more compact, compact, its its scales scales are larger, are larger, and itsjaws, back, are its jaws, sloping sloping obliquely obliquely back, are somewhat somewhat truncated. truncated. The colouring of fra varies varies with of the the fira with the the season, season, the the age age of the fish, and and its to distinguish of its habitat. It It is is easy easy to distinguish the the different different white fera is found in very deep waters; varieties because because the the white fera is found in very deep waters; the fra n in waters waters of average depth; fra, the black fera of average depth; the the blue blue fira, is really a youngfra, has has a a bluish rather than greenish which is ayotngfira. bluish rather than greenish on the the upper upper part of of its its body. body. shimmer on

Sprig offennel of fennel Sprig

Fra

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FESTIVE FESTIVECOOKERY cao KER y

The The Lake Lake Geneva Geneva fira fra is is the the most most highly highly prized. prized. It lt is s generally generally thought Ihought that that the the best best Lake Lake Geneva Genevafira fra are are those those caught sandbank called called the the Travers Travers where where the lhe water water caught on on the the sandbank is is very shallow shallow and and which which forms fonns a a barrier barrier across across the the lake lake near of Geneva. Geneva. This This fish, fish, which which fills iBis out out very very near the port port of rapidly rapidly by by feeding feeding on on a a winged winged insect insect callod called the the caddis-fly, caddis-fly, is is very very fat, fat, white, white, and and extremely extremely delicate. delicate. The The fishermen fishermen of of Geneva Geneva sell sell it it under under the the name name of of Fdra Fra du du Travers. Travers. F6ra Fra i la la meunibre meunire - Scale, Scale, gut, gut, and and wash wash the the fdra. fra. Dry Dry thoroughly in flour flour thoroughly and and season season with with salt salt and and pepper. pepper. Dip Dip in and in fresh fresh butter bulter over over a a moderate moderate heat. heat. and cook cook in Baste Baste frequently frequently with with the the cooking butter. butter. When When cooked, cooked, drain drain the the fish fish and and sprinkle with with choppod parsley. Pour Pour on on a a few few drops drops of of lemon lemon juice and and the the cooking butter, piping hot. hot. Serve at once. once. Serve at
FERCHUSE FERCHlJSE - Culinary speciality speciality of of Burgundy. Irt In former former il was was traditionally made made on 00 the Ihe day when the the pig pig times it times 11s name name ferchuse ferchuse is a a corruption corruption of of fressure fressure was killed. killed. Its was (pluck) (Pluck) (q.v.). (q.v.). in it it 500 500 g. saucepan with with a heavy base. base. Melt Melt in Use a large saucepan (generous (generous I lb.) fresh fresh chopped pork fat. Bring Bring to to the tbe boil, put in all al! the the pork pluck (heart, liver, and lungs) cut CUl into into pieces and seasoned with salt, pepper, and spices. spices. Brown the pluck very very quickly. When browned, sprinkle sprinkle with (seant i cup) flour. fiouL Mix Mix well, stirring stirring wirh 3 tablespoons (scant ".tp) with a s golden. golden. a wooden spoon, and cook until until the flour flour is patt of water or Moisten Moisten with 2 parts red wine and I 1 part ofwater or stock' stock. There There should should be be enough liquid liquid to to cover caver the the pluck pluck completely. steadily, Bring Bring to the boil. As soon as the liquid is boiling steadily, and a a of garlic, and cloves of crushed cloyes shallots, 6 crushcd add 8 chopped sballots, add add I hour, for 1 slowly for garni. Simmer Simmer slowly large bouquet garni. large hour, then then add lard, in lard, which have been browned in chopped onions which 6 iarge, large, chopped simmer potatoes. Continue to to simmer quartered potatoes. l0 or or 12 l2large, and 10 and large, quanered 45 minutes. for a a further 45
volumes. the list List for for themselves, themselves, by volumes. Readers Readers may expand the noting dishes they they discover dscover in in their noting the the recipes recipes of festive dishes travels. travels. We We have have drawn drawn largely largely from from the the Manuel Manuel de de folklore folklore contemporain contemporain (A. (A. et et J. J. Picard Picard et et Cie, Cie, Paris) Paris) by by A. A. Van Van Dictons Vieux (no and Gennep Gennep (no longer longer available), and Vieux Dictons de de nos nos campagiles (New Editions Editions of la Toison Toison d'Or, d'Or, 1952) 1952) by by G. G. campagnes (New Bidault of these these Bidault de de L'Isle. L'Isle. We We cannot cannot speak speak too too highly highly of works. works. Eprphany (6 January). iprprrlNIn PIPHANIE - The The Romans Romans usod used to 10 vote vote with beans, and it was was with with beans beans that that they chose cbose the tbe traditional of the the feast' fcast' at at the the Saturnalian Satumalian banquets: V<"''-I''''''~ Iraditional 'king 'king of the the king king being being the the one one who who drew drew the the bean. bean. This This pagan pagan form the different a slightly persisted in but ceremony "''''''Pn"'''M,\I persisted but in a slightly different form - the bean being placed in the the Twelfth-Night Twelfth-Night cake. cake. placed in About a century ago ago there there was was controversy over over the the origin origin of of this this ceremony. ceremony. Some maintained maintained that that the idea idea itself itself was was a better with forward no-one came Since blasphemous. blasphemous. Since no-one came forward with a better china explanation, a small srnall cbina explanation, the the bean bean was was hastily hastily replaced by a doll dol! which wbich was was meant meant to to represent represent the Child Child Jesus whom whorn the the Magi to adore adore on on this this day day of of Epiphany. Epiphany. Magi had bad come come to On this. long before detractors had its The The custom custom had it'> detractors long before lhis. On 30 30 December December 1972 1972 a a motion motion of of censure censure proposed by by the the citizen citizen Scipion Duroure encouraged encouraged the the councillors of of the the municimuniciScipion Duroure pality of Paris Paris to to pass pass a a decree decl'ee declaring dedaring that that from from 6 6 January January pa lit y of (feast Magi) the of des Rois te feast called 1793, 1793, the the feast ca lied fte des Rois (feast of the Magi) would would be des Sans-Culottes Sans-Culottes (feast of of the the Extrerne Extreme be called called flte des Republicans) "nllhllf'''n~l - and and the the bean bean continued to to be be drawn' drawn. And so so all over over France France and and in in many maoy other other countries countres continues. cake continues. of the besides, besides, the the tradition tradition of the Twelfth-Night Twelfth-Night cake The region. according to It It takes takes different differenl forms forms according to the the Tbe g0teau of cake; that of or fruit cake; is a a brioche for instance, of Sa Savoy, of voy, fol' instance, is brioche or its sugar among among ils candied sugar and candied cinnamon and Verviers has Verviers has cinnamon It gdteau belongs to Paris. Paris. lt pastry gteau belongs to flaky pastry The flaky ingredients. The ingredients. resented the pdtissiers but the the bakers, bakers, but made by to he be made usod to usoo by the ptissiers resented pdtissiers since since the ptissiers side of of the the side was on on the and parliament was this, and this, bakers the bakers All the the same same the make il. it. Ail to make used to were uscd eggs were butter and eggs butter conthey con1914, they to about about 1914, up to and, up the day day and, won the eventually won eventually gdteau on 6 January. January. on 6 the famous famous gteau to seU sell the tinued to nued of Saint Saint body of (22 January) the body Since the January) - Since Vincent (22 Saint Vincent Saint to then to and then to Burgundy and first to transferred .first was transferred Vincent was Vincent the become the naturally enough, become has, naturally saint has, this saint Champagne, rhs Champagne, people of of the people time the growers. At At one one time patron saint vine grewers. of the the vine saint of patron holding a a garpass without without holding let his his day day pass never let Burgundy never EarBurgundy this revived this du tte-vin tite-vin revlved The Chevaliers Chevaliers du gantuan 'pig 'pig feast'. feast'. The ganluan 1934. in 1934. custom in custom to the custom custom to to be be the it used used to in Yonne. Yonne, il At Ligny~le-Chtel. Ligny-le-Chatel in At the (the mirlOln) with the along with pastry (the mirlouzQ along of pastry made of a figure figure made offer a offer daY. this day. on this bread on consecrated bread consecrated conVincent conof Saint Saint Vincent the feast feast of Mdcon, the of Mcon, In the the region of In haricot made of of haricot was made which was couques which callod eouques of a a dish called sisted of sistoo made fritters made variety of of fntters goose fat, and a a variety fat, and in goose cookod in beans cooked beans thick there were were thick Sometimes there apples. Sometimes or apples. brioche, or with bread, bread, brioche, with pancakes called matefaims. called mafaims. pancakes a was once once a (28 Janl.lsry) This was January) - This Saint Chrrlemagne (28 Saint those at at for those for schoolchildren especially for festival day day for festval (The held. (The great banquet banquet used to be beld. A great school. A boarding school. boarding presided the one over III Napoleon prince, young son of over the one young prince, son of Napoleon III and 'cbampagne' 'champagne' in 1868) and held at at the the lycee Louis-le-grand in held was address was An address was drunk ! An solely of bubbles was that consisted solely that day, next day, and next listened, and given in to which which nobody listened, Latin to in Latin given teachers, slumbering teachers, or slumbering by sick or presided over over by classes were were presided dasses for the the year. once again for satiated once Year. satiated is Candlemasis LECHANDELEUR cHANDELEIIR -- Candlemas Candlemas (2 February). LE Candlemas one on on M"ry; the theone Virgin Mary; of the the Virgin of the Purification of the Feast Feast of the (lachandelle) in remembrance remembrance lit in islit chandelle) is virginal candIe candle (la thevirginal which the which in ofJerusalem, Jerusalern, in temple of at the the temple Jesusat of Jesus the presentation of of the of pagln Roman limes times aapagan InRoman Moses. In law of of Moses. the law with the accordance with ~rr'Arf1!ll~"'p

FERMENTFERMENT - The agent, living or not, that induces fermentation.

induced by by Ihe the The chemical chemical change change induced FERMBNTATION FERMENTATION - The action of of bacteria. action FERMENTATIoN ALCOOLIQUE. AI,coor-tQur -- Sec See Alcoholfo fermentaton. fermentation. FERMENTATION Alcohollc ALCOHOL, WINE, BEER. WINE, BEER. LAcTIQLJE See milk. FERMENTATION FERMENTATIoN LACTIQUE Fermentation of of milk. - Sec MILK, CHEESE. M ILK, CHEESE. PUTRIDE FERMENTATIoN PUTRIDE See fementation. FERMENTATION Putrid fermentation. Putrid See PUTREFACTION. PUTREFACTION.
braised of preparing braised (A LA) -- Special method method of FERMIRE FERMBRE ( garnish of carrois, carrots, turnips, a garnish meat, with a pot-roasted meat, or or pot-roasted very tender. until very in butter butter until slowly in cooked slowly onions cooked and onions celery, celery, and (See FONDUE, Vegetable fondue.) FONDUE, Vegetahle (See fondue.) (such ferns (such young shoots certain rems of certain shoots of The young FouctRE -- The FERN. FOUGRE FERN. served and can can be be served are edble edible and bracken) are and bracken) fern and the male male fem as the as stalks. male hop-flower hop-flower stalks. like male like

Customs cALENDAIRE -- Customs cuIsINE CALENDAIRE COOKERY. CUISINE FESTM COOKERY. FESTIVE to or to the year, to religion Ol' of the days of certain days linked to to certain closely lnkcd c10sely and plenty of give plenty opportunity for celebrations; and of opportunity legend, give Many sosofood. Many for special special food. call for enough, caU naturally enough, these, naturally eaten througbout throughout those eaten to those similar to aresimilar dishes are called 'festive' 'festive' dishes called and occasions and to certain certainoccasions year; sorne de rigueur to belong de the year; some belong the This chapter indudes includes times.This at other times. so popular at not be may nOI be50 as the the circumstances (such as specialities servod in particular circumstances onfixed fixed and and offered on as those those offered grain or grape harvest) as aswell well as orgrape grain days. moveablefeast feast days. moveable cuisine all traditional traditionalcuisine includeail to include impossible 10 It would be impossible would be Tt several requireseveral would require that would disposal -- that space at at our ourdisposai in tbe the space in
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festival called Lupercalia was held near this date. Gelasius, festival called Lupercalia was held near this date. Gelasius, who was Pope in 472, rcplacd, this festival by Candlemas. who was Pope in 472, replaced this festival by Candlemas. Since Candlemas fell just as winter endod and spring began, Since Candlemas felI just as winter ended and spring began, the food was flour-based (otd wheat to encourage the new). the food was flour-based (old wheat to encourage the new). Fritters were served (butter and oil rouligneaux) and panFritters were served (butter and oil rouligneaux) and pancakes galore. cakes galore. The pancake custom goes back a long way. The Minagier The paneake eus tom goes back a long way. The Mnagier de Paris cites that, in the fourteenth century, the rule for a de Paris cites that, in the fourteenth century, the rule for a good pancake batter was that it be 'ni clire ni espoisse, was that it be 'ni clre ni espoisse' good pancake batter (neither too thin nor too thick). And for superstition's sake, (neither too thin nor too thick). And for superstition's sake, one had to toss the pancake higher than the kitchen cupone had to toss the pancake higher than the kitchen cupboard while holding coin in the hand. board while holding aacoin in the hand. Napoleon tossed one (badly) before he left for Russia. Napoleon tossed one (badly) before he left for Russia. At Montbard, biscuits are made from a mixture of flour At Montbard, biscuits are made from a mixture of fioul' and fat formed into human human shapes shapes whose whose features features are are and fat formed into marked with five haricot beans. These are called mariottes marked with five haricot beans. These are called mariolles

InNivernais, Nivernais,the theShrove Shrove Tuesday Tuesday meal mealwas: was: In

Clearsoup soup with pasta with pasta Clear Boiled beef beefand andvegetables vegetables Boiled Coqau vinor orchicken auvin chickenin inwhite white sauce sauce Coq Roast turkey goose turkeyor orgoose Roast Salad seasoned garlic and seasonedwith withgarlic andnut nutoil oil Salad goats'milk WhitegoalS' cheese with with cream cream White milk cheese Prune tart tart Prune Burnt marc (indispensable) marc brandy brandy (indispensable) Bumt

or marionnelles. The feast of onelettes (10 Febmary). rl rfrr DEs oMELETTES Tbe fellst of omelettes (Hl Fehl1lllry). LA f'IE DES OMELETIES This is how the villagers celebrate the retum of the sun at -- This is how the villagers celebrate the retum of the sun at Andrieux in the Hautes-Alpes. The valley in which this Andrieux in the Hautes-Alpes. The valley in which this village lies is bereft of the sun's rays for about a hundred of the sun's rays for about a hundred village lies is bereft days a year. On l0 February the reappearance ofthe sun is days a year. On 10 February the reappearance of the sun is the signal for general rejoicing. All the inhabitants busily the signal for general rejoicing. Ali the inhabitants busily prepare omelettes. At l0 a.m. these are carried to the square. prepare omelettes. At 10 a.m. thesc are carried to the square. The most venerable and and aged aged of of the the inhabitanlS inhabitants preside preside The most venerable over the succeeding ceremony at which everyone dances the over the succeeding ceremony at which everyone dances the holding their their omelette pans in omelette pans in their their hands. hands. The farandole holding The farandole whole gathering then goes to a stone bridge and the omelettes whoJe gathering then goes to a stone bridge and the omelettes are placed on the parapets. When the sun peeps over the are placed on the parapets. When the sun peeps over the horizon about midday, the omelettes are offered to it. Home horizon about midday, the omelettes are offered to il. Home then, where every household makes and ealS eats ilS its own own then, where every household makes and 'sacred' omelette in thanksgiving. 'sacred' omelette in than ksgiving. fst April - The sun happened to be in the constellation of lst AprilThe sun happened to be in the constellation of Pisces on date and the idea of poisson d'avril (April fish Pisces on this this date and the idea of poisson d'avril (April fish or fool) was born. Since I April was onoe the first day of the or fool) was born. Since 1 April was once the tirst day of the year, gifts were exchanged, particularly sweetmeats in the year, gifts were exchanged, particularly sweetmeals in the form of fish. These were form of fish. These were the the forerunners forerunners of of the the chocolate chocolate fish that we know today, which are just as characteristic of fish that we know today, which are just as characteristic of Easter as chocolate Easter eggs. Eastel' as chocolate Easter eggs. (25 Saint Saint Mark Mark (25 April) April) - In In the the Baux Baux de de Provence, Provence, ringringshapod biscuits called toques are blessed and eaten. shaped biscuit<; called lOques are blessed and eaten. Shrove Tuesday and Carnival. ulr.or cRAs ET cARNAVAL Sbrove Tuesday and Carnival. MARDI GRAS ET CARNAVALDepending upon when Easter Day falls, Shrove Tuesday is Depending upon when Easter Day falls, Shrove Tuesday is celebratod somewhere between 2 February and 9 March. celebrated somewhere between 2 February and 9 March. Carnival Carnival begins begins on on 6 6 January January and and can can therefore therefore last last for for anything between twenty-eight and sixty-six days. In the anything between twenty-eigbt and sixt y-six days. In the olden days it was particularly on Shrove Tuesday, the last olden days it was particularly on Shrove Tuesday, the la st day before Lent, that day before Lent, that Carnival Carnival reached reached its ilS height. height. The The fattened ox with its accorirpanying traditions was one of the fattened ox with ilS accompanying traditions was one of the biggest attractions of the festival. Nowadays, in Burgundy biggest attractions of the festival. Nowadays, in Burgundy and Dauphin6, Carnival delicacies are pancakes, frittirs oi and Dauphin, Carnival delicacies are pancakes, fritters or bugnes, milk gruel, snake-shaped gdteaux called fantaisies. bugnes, milk gruel, snake-shaped gteaux called fantaisies. Another Burgundy speciality is cheese which is cooked in the Another Burgundy spet.-iality is cheese which is cooked in the cinders. cinders. It's It's Mardi Mardi Gras Gras

or marionnettes.

I'll l'Il make make you you pancakes pancakes you will eat them-o! And And you will eat them-o!
In Champagne, pig's trotter always used to be eaten; its In Champagne, pig's trotter always used to be eaten; its ear in Ardeche. In Touraine, it used to be leg of goat; in ear in Ardche. ln Touraine, il used to be leg of goat; in Limousin, a stuffed rabbit; in Quercy, an enonnolrs vol-auLimousin, a stuffed rabbit; in Quercy, an enormous vol-auvmt frlled with jointed chickens and accompanied by salsify ven/ filled with jointed chickens and accompanied by salsify sauce) in the Confolens region, they usod to feast upon sauce) in the Confolens region, they used 10 feast upon stuffod breast of veal. stuffed breast of veal. In Provence, the last big meal before Lent had to be an ln Provence, the last big meal before Lent had to be an atoli. a/oli. Pies and flans used to be eaten in H6rault. Pies and flans used to be eaten in Hrault.
370 370

You You mustn't mustn't go go

And al! all over over France, France, people people feasted feasted themselves themselves on panon panAnd cakes, fritters, fritters, waffles, waffies, and and various various biscuits biscuits and and cakes. cakes" cakes, In Les Les Landes, Landes, the the cook cook knew knerr that that her het cruspels cruspets were were In perfectly baked baked when, when, if if she she sharply sharply rapped rapped the the terrine terrine perfectly containing them them with with her her knuckles, knuckles, it it broke. broke. containing There were were also also cornious, cornious, merveilles merveilles and (fied and, bollereaux bottereaux (fried There biscuits). In In Touraine, Touraine, there (small fried there were russeroles (small were russeroles fried biscuits). yeast biscuits). biscuits). yeast The faverol/es of Sainte-Menehould Sainte-Menehould were were made made with with The faverolles of butter, nour flour and and eggs. eggs. butter, In Marne, Marne, they they ate ate the the defeated defeated fighting fighting cockerels; cockerels; and and In in the the Ardennes, Ardennes, a gigantic omelette a gigantic omelette marked marked the the end end of of the the in period. egg-eating egg-ea ting period. In Sologne, Sologne, they they made made beugnons beugnow (pasta (pasta browned browned in in a a In pan) or frying pan) or slices slices of of white white bread bread dipped dipped in in frying frying batter. frying giteaux of The gteaux of Reims Reims were four-horned. four-horned. The In Alsace, Alsace, at at Ossenbach Ossenbach and and elsewhere, elsewhere, slices slices of dried of dried In apples and pears were served and pears served with bacon bacon or ham. ham. The same The sa apples me dish was was called called schu siclw in n Territoue-de-Belfort. Territoirede-Belfort. dish In the the Cte-d'Or Cdte-d'Or and and in in Isre, Isdre, a a cheese cheese soup soup began In began the meal. mea!. Lent. cmfrrm eggs, no fat, no Lent is unt. CARME No eggs, no fat, no meat. meal. Lent is sym- No bolised cod and and the herring, two fish fish that that could bolised by by the the cod the herring, could be conserved in various conserved in various ways. ways. In In Bordeaux, Bordeaux, this this period pericx! of penitence on a one journeying penitence began began on a merry merry note note by by one journeying to Caud6ran to the 10lls lous limacs Caudran to eat eat the Iimacs cendrdis cendris (snails cooked in the the ashes). ashes). At in Arddche, Ardche, a a special special dish dish was created crealed for At Usclades, Usclades, in Lent: Lent: pieces pieces of of a a cheese called called Sarrasoune, and and pieces pieces of other other varieties varieties of of cheese, cheese, were were placed placed in in an earthenware earthenware jar jar with with salt, salt, vinegar vinegar and and mustard mustard and set aside aside to 10 ferment ferment for for three three weeks. weeks. The The result result was was a rather rather sticky sticky mess mess with with a a very very strong strong flavour. flavour. One One had had to to become become slowly slowly accustomod accustomed to to the the rigours rigours of of the the long long period period of of fasting, fasting, during during which which even ev en eggs eggs were were forbidden under the Ancim Ancien Rigime. Rgime. The The first Iirst Sunday Sunday of of forbidden under Lent Lent offered offered some sorne alleviation, alleviation, and and resultod resultcd in in the the kilchlis kchlis of of Alsace Alsace (crown-shaped (crown-shaped gAteaux), gteaux), the the bugnes bugnes of of Beaujolais, Beaujolais, and and carpe carpe brandonniire brandonnire (enjoyed (enjoyed by by the the inhabitants inhabitants of of Mareuil Mareuil in in Touraine Touraine as as well weil as as those those of of Sa6ne-et-Loire). Sane-ct-Loire). In ln Franche-Comte Franche-Comt and and French French Switzerland, Switzerland, there there were were the thepiqueris, piquers, piuis picrs or orpiconis picons (peas (peas fried fried in in pork pork fat) fat) which which the the young young married married couples couples offered offered to to their their guests. guests. These These appear appear again again in in Yonne, Yonne, under under the the name name of of guernaulie guernaule or or gr6lie. grle. A A dish dish of ofpeas peas cooked cooked first tirst in in water, water, then then saut6ed sautcd in in lard, lard, is is variously variously called called dimanche dimanche an au Piquerey, Piquerey, au au picoui, Picou, dl d pwd, Pw, des etc. des Botdges, Bofdges, des des Piquirds, Piqurs. etc. In In Vermenton, Vermenton, ichaudis chauds and and a a pint pint of of wine wine were were distridistributed. buted. Mid-Lent. Mid-unt. r.l LA nrr-c,mfrran Ml-CARME -- Halfway Halfway through througb Lent Lent was was the accompanied by by the signal signal for for celebrations celebrations everywhere, everywhere, accompanied drinking drinkingsessions sessionsand and feasts. feasts. In In Alsace, Alsace, girls girls made made special special gdteaux gteaux which which they they distridistributed men; in in Hazebrouck, Hazebrouck, nuts nuts were were tossed tossed buted to to the the young young men; into intothe thestreets. strects.(These (Thesenuts, nuls,ititwas wassaid, said,had had the themiraculous miraculous power powerof ofcuring curingtoothache.) toothache.) Pahn Plilm Sundry. Sunday. LEs LES RAMEAuX RAMEAUX -- Or Or the Ihe first first Sundav Sunday in in

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Spring, Spring, because because the the blossom blossom appears appears on on the Ihe boxwood boxwood and and the the first firsi spring spring flowers flowers are are ready ready to 10 be be picked. picked. In In provincial provincial France France the the children children attend attend Mass Mass bearing bearing a a latge large branch branch of of boxwood boxwood hung hung with with ribbons, ribbons, chocolates chocolates or or candies, candies, apples apples or or prunes, prunes, uoquets croquets (little (Iitlle crisp crisp almond almond biscuits), biscuits), candied candied fruit fruit or or waffies. waffies. In In Brittany Brittany and and Anjou, Anjou, the the branches branches are are laurel laurel or or rosemary. rosemary. In ln the the Nice Nice region, region, the tbe branches branches used used to to be be decorated decorated with with candiod candied fruit fruit (apple, (apple, pear, pear, orange) orange) and and little Httle biscuit biscuit men. These biscuit biscuit figures figures are are also also found found in in Auvergne Auvergne men. These where where they they are are called cali cd bougeois.In bougeois. ln Savoy Savoy they Ihey are are animalanimalshaped. shaped. In In Dauphin6, Dauphin, besides besides these these figures, figures, there there are are tortilles tortilles which which are are crown-shaped crown-shaped giteaux. gteaux. In In Sarlat, Sarlat, the the biscuit biscuit figures figures are arc called called colombes colombes and and their their features features are are marked marked with with aniseed. aniseed. In In Arddche Ardche they they are are called called pantins, pantins, ,suil.reJ, suisses, or or estives. estves. Elsewhere, Elsewhere, gdteaux, gteaux, sweetmeats, sweetmeats, and and 'red'eggs 'red' eggs abound. abound. In ln Aveyron, Aveyron, we we find find star-shaped star-shaped biscuits biscuils called chaudels, along along with with aniseed aniseed dwarfs dwarfs and and biscuit biscuit called chaudels, figures. S-shaped or or crown-shaped crown-shaped pdtisseries ptisseries ate are the the figures. S-shaped specialities specialities in in Perpignan. Perpignan. In ln Creuse, Creuse, it it is is a a cock; cock; in in Aubusson, Aubusson, a a rosary rosary of of meringues meringues with with a ribbon ribbon threaded threaded through through them. them. Tlrc The cornus, cornudos, cornudos, and cornuelles cornuelles found found in in Limousin, Limousin, Angoumois, Angoumois, and P6rigord Prigord are triangular biscuits. biscuits. In In Berry, Berry, there there are are marmottes (little (Iittle round round biscuits). biscuits). In In Bergerac, Bergerac, around around the the year year 1890, 1890, the the branches were were decorated decorated with with salted fish); sardinoux (tiny (tiny salted fish); and and in in Quercy, real real fish fish were wcre served with the fouaces (gftdle (girdle cakes). JEuDI sAINr Murndy Maundy Thursday. Tbursday. JEUDl SAINT - In ln Alsace, nothing nothing but but everyalmost everygreen vegetables vegetables are eaten in the the home. home. But But almost (particularly choir where else this is is the day where where children children (particularly choir and pennies. collecting eggs boys) go go from door to door colJecting eggs and pennies. dish The most sAINr VENDREDI SAINT most traditional traditional dish Good Friday. vENDR-EDI - The C6te-d'Or, lentils on the the Cte-d'Or, in Selongey, on is still still cod; but in is lenlils have have bretzels Alsace, bretzels in Alsace, while in to be eaten to wash away one's sins; while pledge a pledge are a young engaged engaged couples are by young in unison by crunched in crunched conwere conFriday were on Good Good Friday love. Eggs 'gathered' on of eternal love. qualities. special qualities. to have special everywhere to sidered almost everywhere other lasagne and and olher valley, lasagne Meuse valley, in the the Meuse and in In Lorraine Lorraine and ln or they they vinegar; or in vinegar; dipped in and dipped lozenges and pasta into lozenges are cul cut into pas ta are cooked being cooked by being of Moselle by tArcb$ of or ttelots tdtelats or the ttelats become become the vinaigrette. with vinaigrette. seasoned with water and and seasoned in water in pAeurs -- The Maundy on Maundy eggs on for eggs The searching searching for Easter. PQlJES Easter. preparation for for the the the preparation was the Friday was Good Friday and Good Thursday and Thursday that pastries, and and omelettes omelettes Ihat eggs, paslries, hard-boiled eggs, on hard-boiled onslaught on onslaught Lent. after Lent. eating after to normal normal eating return to the retum markod the marked chocolate or chocolate sugar-coated or advent of of sugar-coaled the advent before the A long long time time before A were Children were roll eggs. eggs. Children and roll to dye dye and custom 10 it was was Ihe the custom eggs, il eggs, rabbits, or rab hares, or hens, hares, laid by by hens, were laid eggs were Easter eggs that Easter told that told bits, region. the region. upon the depending upon depending fare besides besides Easter fare traditional Easler other traditional was other there was However, Ihere Rowever, beechnut (In the Bray region, region, beechnut the Bray omelettes. (ln the indispensable indispensable omeletles. the kid or or roast kid it was was mast these.) Often Ofteir it for making making these.) was set set aside aside for oil was oi! parslied also parslied were also there were but there days, but biblical days, as in in biblical leg of of mutton mutton as leg roast fattened roast specially fattened Burgundy; specially pork brawn in Burgundy; brawn in ham or or pork harn in Gascogne; Gascogne; saucisson in region; dried dried suucL5Son pig in Metz region; in the the Metz sucking pig sucking Toulon. and Toulon. in Lauraguais Lauraguais and omelette in and saucisson saucissonomelette and pies are pies provinces there there are Charentes provinces other Charentes and other In Ruffec Ruffec and In pastry is is Saturday aa pastry EasterSaturday On Easter meat. On minced meal. filled with with minced I1Hed plate is is lined lined A large large plate sugar. A and sugar. butter, and of flour, flour, eggs, eggs, butter, made of made pigeon meat meat or pigeon mixture of of chicken chicken or minced mixture this, then then aa minced with this, with with iscovered covered with placed upon This is it.This upon il. isplaced eggs is hard-boiled eggs and hard-boiled and it is pie is is is cooked, cooked, il pastry. Before the pie Before the layer of of pastry. another layer another birds, with leaves, leaves, birds, house with the house of the daughter of the dallghter decorated by by the decorated pastry' The The leftover pastry. theleftover of the made of shapes made simpleshapes othersimple andother and in andbaked baked in water and yolk of andwater ofegg eggand glazdwith withyolk pieis isthen thenglazed pie theoyen. oven. the to those thoseof of added10 isadded onion is inPoitou; Poitou; onion servedin too,are areserved Pies,too, Pies, Touraine. Touraine.
371 371

In ln Louhans, Louhans, a a minced minced mixture mixture of of salt salt veal, veal, chicken, chicken, and and pie. for the filling pork traditional is the pork is the traditional filling for the pie. In Souterraine (Creuse), (Creuse), the the Easter Easter pie pie is is made made of of meat meat ln Souterraine covered covered with with halved halved hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs eggswhich whichgive giveit il aa humped humped
appearance. appearance. The The galette galelle pacaude pacaude of of Vend6e Vende (also (also called called Easter Easler bread) bread) to is is made made with with bread bread dough dough rekneaded rekneaded with with butter buller and and eggs eggs to water orange-flower and Sugar dough. make make a a brioche brioche dough. Sugar and orange-flower water are are added, added, and and the the paste paste is is formed formed into into a a large large loaf loaf and and cooked cooked a brioche. like oven in a slow in a slow oyen Iike a brioche.

pdtisserie: There There are are many many other other varieties varieties of of Easter Easter ptisserie: cavagflats cavagnats at at Menton; Menton; cacavelli cacavelli ot or campanili campanili in in Corsica; C'orsica; juicy chunks of flaky pastry pies pies filled filled with with juicy chunks oflamb lamb in in Aveyron, Aveyron, flaky pastry
etc. etc.

butter) butter) belongs belongs traditionally traditionally to to Easter. Easter. It lt is is called called crofrtes crotes in in parts of Savoy. certain certain pariS of Sa voy. Pdti Pt en en crofrte crote is is still still the the Easter Easter Monday Monday dish dish in in Loches Loches pork omelette. and and Ligueil. Ligueil. In ln Marseille, Marseille, it il is is pickled pickled pork omelette. performed on is dance cheese Ascension Ascension - The The traditional traditional checse dance is performed on cheese this this day day at at Vic-sous-Thil Vic-sous- Thil on on the the C6ted'Or. Cte-d'Or. A A cream cream cheese lilac. is is placed placed in in a a large large bowl bowJ and and crowned crowned with with a a bunch bunch of of lilae. When When the the dancer dancer makes makes her her final final curtsey, curtsey, the the inn-keeper inn-keeper steps steps forward forward and and smears smears her her face face with with the Ihe cream cream cheese. cheese. ln In the the Montb6liard Montbliard region, region, fritters fritters and and spiced spiced milk milk curds curds (saizai) (saizai) are are the the order order ofthe of the daY. day. Curdled Curdled milk milk blended blended with with the the seeds seeds of of cultivated cultivated dish in (caillebottes) used cardoons (caillebottes) cardoons used to to be be the the Ascension Ascension Day Day dish in with eaten with fresh crosswise and cut crosswise The whey Vend6e. whey was was eut and eaten fresh Vende. The sugar. milk milk and and sugar. pnNrncdrs - A haricot bean soup called 'the Pentecost. Pcotecost. PENTECTE A haricot bean soup called 'the village in the dish in the traditional Holy Ghosl' Ghost' is of the soup of soup the Roly is the traditional dish the village in two is made It is Alpes-Maritimes. lt in the Croix in La Croix of La of the Alpes-Maritimes. made in two (33 gallons, containing l50litres each containing cauldrons, each enonnous cauldrons, enormous J 50 litres (33 gallons, first !loor floor of of the first on Ihe situated on kitchen situated in a a kitchen gallons) soup, soup, in 4lj gallons) 41t the church. church. lhe on giteaux are are offered offerod on pork and special gteaux and special Roast pork I May May - Roast 1 'milk the 'milk drinks the everyone drinks Tours, everyone In Tours, Burgundy. In in Burgundy. this day, day, in Ihis strong'. 'sweet and and strong'. thern 'sweet make them to make May' to of May' of In Saint-ForgeuxSaint-ForgeuxIsIDoRE- ln (10 May). sAINr ISIDORE May). SAINT Isadore (10 Saint Isadorc Saint large are large 'Saint Isadores' which are Isadores' which bakes 'Saint baker bakes the baker I'Espinasse, the l'Espinasse, high. These These are (12 to inches) high. to 24 24 inches) cm. (12 to 60 60 cm. 30 to figures 30 brioihe figures brioche are later dislributed. distributed. and later in the the church church and exhibited in exhibited succulent Yonne, succulenl (16 May) the Yonne, in the At Viviers, Viviers, in May) -- At Phsl (16 Saint Phal Saint that the reason th for this this reason It is is for day. Il this day. on this pies are offered on are offered duck pies duck al the nicknamed'ducklings'. are nicknamed inhabitants are inhabitants 'ducklings'. cheese dalcetype of of cheesc Another type rrr-orcU -- Anolher Christi. rnTE-DIEU Corpus Christi. Corpus dance bowl of of set in in aa bowl cheese set white cheese A white day. A place on this day. on this takes place takes best. girl young who dances the young girl who dances best. to the is offered offered to cream is cream netis aa netthere is in Anjou, Anjou, there At Ponts-de-C Ponts-de-C6 in 15 August August -- At 15 this held on be to used A banquet fishing expedition. fishing expedition. A banquet used to be held on Ihis stew laced offish kind of enjoyed aa kind everyone enjoyed which everyone at which occasion at occasion fish stew laced wine. Anjou wine. with Anjou with been a has always always been meal has harvest meal The harvest MotssoNs -- The Harvest. MOISSONS Hacvest. a at Pentecost, example, for In Argonne, event. important very very important event. ln Argonne, for exarnple, at Pentecost, his to his banquet 10 pre-harvest banquet offer aa pre-harvest to offer used to even maiter ev the master the en used in scytheg in the scythes, wielded the who wielded men who The men harvesters. The future harvesters. future fields ail all in the the fields out in them oui before them hard task task before had aa hard particular, had particular, hot sun. sun. the hot day under under the day meals the kind kind of of meals of tbe examples of few examples are aa few following are The following The part of of theit their formod part of spcaking, speaking formed manner of grvel. These, in aamanner These, in given. fivemeals meals were five There were France.There Midi of of France. in the the Midi contract in work contracl work day: aaday: that onbread bread that spread on redancbovy anchovy spread crushed red At7 a.m.aacrushed l.At J. 7 a.m. pickled withaa pickled along witb vinegar, along andvinegar, inoil oil and dipped in hadbeen beendipped had garlic-rubbod bread. bread. piece of drygarlic-rubbed ofdry oraapiece onionor onion piece of cheese. and aapiece eggand hard-boiled egg a.m.aahard-boiled At 10 l0a.m. 2.At 2. of cheese.

in in in a a mixture mixture of of beaten beaten eggs eggs and and milk, milk, then then browned browned in

The The well-known well-known soupe soupe dorde dore (slices (slices of of white white bread bread dipped dipped

FESTIVE COOKERY FESTIVE COOKERY

3. At I p.m. lunch of soup followed by boiled vegetables 3. Al J p.m. lunch of soup followed by boiled vegetables or an onion omelette. or an onion omelette. 4. At 4 p.m. an enonnous salad with a crotton of garlic-

4. At 4 p.m. an enormous salad with a croton of garlicrubbed bread. rubbed bread. 5. For supper, pork or mutton followed by an onion 5. For supper, pork or mutton followed by an onion omelette called the moissonneuse (harvester) and soupo omelette called the moissonneuse (harvester) and soupo courto (a meat ragofrt mixed with rice). courlo (a meat ragoul mixed with rice). In the Aude, lunch consisted of white lamb stew, or an ln the Aude, lunch consisted of white lamb stew, or an omelette, or sheep's tripe. omelette, or sheep's tripe. In Seine-et-Marne a stew accompanied by cheese and ln Seine-ct-Marne a stew accompanied by cheese and salad was carried out to the fields at I I a.m. In the evenins salad was carried out to the fields at Il a.m. In the evening there was charigot (a mutton ragofrt served with potatoes). there was charigot (a mullon ragot served with potatoes). In Doubs, at 4 p.m., there was the fiempette which was a ln Doubs, at 4 p.m., there was the trempe/le which was a bowl of sweetenod wine in which one dipped /icftes (strips) of bowl of sweetened wine in which one dipped liches (strips) of bread. bread. Harvest festival. A u rnr DEs MorssoNs - There was Harvest festival. LA FIN DES MOISSONS - There was always a meal to mark the end of the harvest but it was of the harvest but it was al ways a meal to mark the end served under a variety of names - reboule, paulee, pass6e, served under a variety of names - reboule, paule, passe, berlot, poch6e, barbatto. Fritters and offal were served in berlot, poche, barbatto. Fritters and offaJ were served in Creuse and in Somme; sausages in Alsace and in FrancheCreuse and in Somme; sausages in Alsace and in FrancheComt6; cured knuckle of pork in the Massif Central; Central: Comt; cured knuckle ofjugged pork in the Massif boiled beef in Normandy; rabbit in Marne, Beauce. Beauce, boiled becf in Nonnandy; jugged rabbit in Marne, Perche and around Nice; rabbit an sang in Cher; roast Perche and around Nice; rab bit au sang in Cher; roast goose in Alsace,.Touraine and Seine-et-Marne; preserved goose in Alsace, Touraine and Seine-ct-Marne; preserved goose (confit d'oie) in the regions that specialise in it; roast goose (confit d'oie) in the regions that specialise in it; roast cockerel more or less throughout Marne, Isdre, Angoumois cockerel more or less throughout Marne, Isre, Angoumois and Sologne. There was a lot of pasta served too: rivioli or and Sologne. There was a lot of pasta served too: ravioli or meat pasties, lasagne, galettes (girdle cakes) and matafans, meat pasties, lasagne, ga/elles (girdJe cakes) and matafans, wafres and darioles. wafHes and darioles. In the Massif Central the dish of the day is patranque (a In the Massif Central the dish of the day is patranque (a potato and cheese dish) and pountari (a stuffing potato and cheese dish) and pounlari (a meatless meatless stuffing cooked in a casserole). cooked in a casserole). In the Meuse, there are cream or jam puffs and gouillates ln the Meuse, there are cream or jam puffs and gouil/ales (thin pastry squares eaten with milk or vinaigreuej. (thin pastry squares eaten with milk or vinaigrelle). October - In Burgundy, neighbours and friends meet to Oclober - In Burgundy, neighboUfs and friends mect to crack nuts and to drink the new as the evenings draw wine as the evenings draw crack nuIS and to drink the new wine in. There is much singing and story-telling on such ociasions. in. There is much singing and story-telling on such occasions. In some parts of Yonne, a light meal used to follow the In sorne parts of Yonne, a light meal used to follow the wine and nuts. Small, Vry spicy, dumplings called miottes wine and nuts. Small, very spicy, dumplings called mioltes were served along with girdle cakes and haricot beans. were served along with girdle cakes and haricot beans. Grape harvest. LEs vENDANGEs - It used to be the general Grape bancsl. LES VENDANGES - It used to be the general custom to offer the grape-pickers a meal during the harvest. custom to ofl'er the grape-pickers a meal during the harvest. In lhe upper Rhine valley this consisted of a soup thickened ln the upper Rhine valley this consisted of a soup thickened with flour or potatoes, and white cheese mixed with munster with !lour or potatoes, and white cheese mixed with munster or herbstkas. In the region of Ay and Epernay, the freshly or herbstkas. In the region of Ay and Epernay, the freshly butchered pig's head was kept for this meal. In Touraine, butchered pig's he ad was kept for this meal. In Touraine, jugged rabbit with prunes was jugged rabbi! with prunes was the the speciality. speciality. In In Beaujolais, Beaujolais, there were chamoures (marrow flans). there were chamoures (marrow flans). The pmlie, the meal that marked the termination of the The pauMe, the meal that marked the termination of the grape harvest, is still the signal for gargantuan feasts, where grape harvest, is still the signal for gargantuan feasts, where the speciality of each region has pride of place. the speciality of each region has pride of place. It November In the centre of France, France, this th is evening evening was was November - ln the centre of spent doing the pluche which consisted of peeling chestnuts, spent doing the pluche which consisted of peeling chestnuts, then boiling and eating them. In other places, they used to then boiling and eating them. In other places, they used to make and eat the milletie, a kind of mash made from millet make and eat the millele, a kind of mash made from millet grain cookod in milk. These traditions were usually usually linked Imked grain cooked in milk. Tbese traditions were with some superstition or other. with some superstition or other. Martinmas (11 November) - In some country districts, the Martlnmas (Il November) _. In some country districts, the custom is to eat a roast turkey stuffed with chestnuts, or a custom is LO cat a roast turkey stuffed wilh chestnuts, or a fattened goose (it is the end of the fattening period for these fattened goose (il is the end of the fattening period for these fowl). And the rue aux Oyers, aux (bv fowl). And the rue aux Oyers, aux Oues, Oues, and and aux aux Ours Ours (by deformation), used to be close to the abbey of Saint-Martindeformation), used to be close to the abbey of Saint-Martindes Champs. The Dijon gastronomic fair usd to begin on des Champs. The Dijon gastronomic fair used to begin on ll November. Il November. North of the French border, in Flanders and in the North of the French border, in Flanders and in the Rhineland, the cornes de Rhineland, the cornes de Saint-Martin Sainl-Martin (crescent-shaped (crescent-shaped gnteaux) were offered on this dav. gteaux) were offered on th.is day. Chrisfuas Eve. LA vErLLfu or No'sL - The hearty provengal Christmas Eve. LA VEILLE DE NO'EL - The hearty Provenal
372 372

supperbecomes becomesaameatless meatless meal mealon onChristmas Christmas Eve. Eve.ftIt supper provence. variesfrom fromdistrict districtto todistrict districtin inprovence. varies canbe becauliflower; cauliflower;cod (cod, fried inrailO codin raito(cod, friedwith withwine ItItcan wine sauceand andcapers); capers);cardoons cardoonsand andchards chardsin inwhite whitesauce; sauce; sauce grey mullet snails;grey mulletwith with olives; olives;celery poivrade; or celery dla Ia poivrade; snails; or omelettes with withartichokes artichokes and fresh pasta. pasta. andfresh omelettes But the the highlight highlight is is the thethirteen thirteendesserts: desserts: nougal nougatdes des But capucins made madewith withfigs, figs,with with nuts, nuts,and andwith with honey; honey;white white capucins nougat; the thefougasse (girdle cake cake made made with with oil oiland and orangeorangenougat; fougasse (girdle flower water); water); apples; apples; pears; pears; prunes; prunes; almonds; almonds; hazelnuts; hazelnuis; flowcr thecalissons calissonsof of Aix; Aix;the thebiscotins; biscotins;the casse-dents of of Allanch, Allanch, the the casse-dents etc., washed washed down down with with hot hot wine wine and and ratafi ratafi liqueur. liqueur. Thirteen Thirteen etc., desserts, therefore, therefore, but but not not necessarily necessarily the thesame sameones oneseveryeverydesserts, where. And And why why thirteen? thirteen? Simply Simply in in memory memory of of the the Last Lait where. Supper which which Christ Christ shared shared with with his his twelve twelve disciples. disciples. Supper Le rveillon r6veillon (midnight (midniglrt fesst) feast) -- Begins Begins on on retum return from from Le (Rdveillon means Midnight Mass. M ass. (Rveillon means literally literally 'a 'a new new awakening'). awakening'). Midnight The fasting fasting of of Christmas Christmas Eve, Eve, the the length length of of the the services services The (everyone used used to to attend attend laudes laudes and and matins matins before before the the threc three (everyone masses) and (more often and the the (more often than than not) not) long long distance distance to to masses) cover coming coming and justification enough going, used and going, used to to be be justification enough for for cover the rveillon. riveillon Also Also this this was, was, materially materially speaking, speaking, the the most most the important festival festival of of ail. all, the the one one that that lent lent ilS great its name name to to ail all great important rejoicings. On On royal royal occasions, occasions, when when large large distributions distributions of of rejoicings. food were were made made to people, the to the the people, the latter showed showed their delight delight food by crying crying'NoEl Noel !'. !'. by 'Nol!! Nol In Annagnac, Armagnac, a a stew stew is is servcd. served. In In Alsace, Alsace, thcre there is is sauerkraui sauerkraut and and goose liver. ln In Nivernais, Nivernais, a pig is a pig is slaughtered, slaughtered, and everyone everyone tucks into ln puddings while the puddings while they they wait wait for for the girdle cakes. the In Poitou, there there is game; partridges, capons, and game; ln Poitou, is poultry poultry and game birds, small game pheasants, small birds, herons, herons, leverets, leverets, hutch rabbits, pheasants, etc. etc. .big In ln Provence, Provence, those those who who are are still still hungry hungry after after the the 'big supper' find a turkey, stuffed with chestnuts, supper' lind a turkey, stuffed with chestnuts, waiting for them on their them on their return return from from church. In ln Touraine, Touraine, a a pig pig is is slaughtered and there are quantities quantities of of black black and and white white puddings puddings followed followcd by by rillons (potted (potted pork), pork), cutlets, cutlets, and and finally finally the the fouace fouace (girdle (girdle cake). cake). In gras and. foie In Roussillon, Roussillon, like like everywhere else, oysters and foie gras take take the the place place of of honour honour at at the the beginning beginning of of the the meal, meal, followed followed by by the the local local ham ham and and a a roast roast turkey turkey nestling nestling beside beside a a roast roast hare. hare. The The glowing glowiog Muscat, Muscat, Banyuls Banyuls and and Rancio Rancio wines wines add add gaiety gaiety to to the the feast. fcast. For For dessert, dessert, there there is is pineapple pineapple bread, bread, then then the the tourrous (ourrous (the (the nougat nougat of of the the region), region), ihe the rosquilles rosquilles of of Am6lie-les-Bains, Amlie-les-Bains, and and the the grebilles grebilles (cisp (crisp biscuits). biscuits). All Ail these these are are highly highly esteemed esteemed varieties varieties of of locil local pdtisserie. ptisserie. Roast Roast goose goose is is eaten eaten in in the the south-west; south-west; turkey turkey almost almost everywhere everywhere else. else. In ln the tbe United United States, States, Britain, Britain, and and Canada, Canada, on on Christmas Christmas Day Day there there is is roast roast beef, beef, or or a a goose, go ose, or or a a turkey, turkey, with with plum pIum pudding puddingand andmince mincepies. pies. At Atone onetime limethe theroyal royalChristmas Christmasdish dish was was roast roast swan swan followed followed by by plum plum pudding. pudding. Boar's Boar's head head is is served servedat atOxford. Oxford. In Austria,carp, carp,potato potatochips, chips, and andpear pearflans flansare areserved served at at lnAustria, the Thenthere thereis isroast ma stturkey turkeyor orgoose goosewith withapples, apples, theriveillon rveil/on.Then accompanied accompanied by byaagrilled grilled noodle noodledish dish containing containinghoney honeyand and poppyseeds poppyseedsfor forthe themidday midday meal meal on on Christmas Christmasday. day. In ln Denmark, Denmark, there there is is hot hot rice nce sprinkled sprinkled with with cold cold milk, milk, wheate,n wheatenbeer beerbread, bread, ham ham and and cod cod with with horseradish horseradish sauce. sauce. In ln Spain, Spain, there there is is almond almond soup soup and and besugo besugo (sea (sea bream bream baked bakedin in the theoven). oven). In Hungary, a a substantial substantial supper supper consisting consisting of of roast roast ln Hungary, sucking suckingpig pigand and poppyseed poppyseed cake cakeis is eaten eaten before beforemidnight midnight mass. mass. In ln Switzerland, Switzerland, the the Christmas Christmas patties patlies are are like like apple apple turnovers turnoversexcept exceptthat thatthey theyare aremade madewith withpears. pears.

FIATOLE FIATOLE
Christmas Christmas cakes cakes an( anrJ biscuits. biscuits. Cakes Cakes and and biscuits biscuits have have alwaysbeen been an an integral integral feature feature ofevery feast feast day, day, to to such such an an always extent extent that that they have have taken taken on on a a ritual character, their their shape shape

and and composition conforming conforming to to the the solemnity solemnity of of the the
occasion. occasion.

There are are the the Flemish Flemish Etegaolles; quegnolles; the cochelins cochelins of of the the There Beauce; the the nourolles nourol/es and agaignettes of of Normandy; the the Beauce; noulets and and cornabeaux cornabeaux of Berrichon; the calendnt of of noulets Provence - and and many others. others. Provence In Champagne, Champagne, there is is the the bourde. bourde. This This ritual ritual g0teau gteau used In to be be in in the the shape shape of of a a human human figure figure and and was was eaten at to Christmas time; time; now now it it is is rectangular rectangular with with two two horns horns at Christmas either end. end. Bakers Bakers still still make make biscuits biscuits that that are are vaguely either At Christmas, Christmas, godparents used used to to give give human-shaped. At bourdes to to their godchildren godchildren up up to the period of their first bourdes Communion. These These were were placed placed in the the children's children's shoes or Communion. under their their pillows pillows for them to eat when they awoke. The under bourdes become become queugnots queugnols in Chdlons, Chlons, cogneux in Lorraine, Lorraine, bourdes and One Christmas in in Moirement is and burdins in Argonne. One described in in the following following few few lines: !ines: described l baked for him Early in the morning I 1 made him a little Iittle burdin I pitcher Which is as big as our pitcher l added a little lard I l hadn't enough enough butter Because I form of of a a the form The gingerbread gingerbread in in Champagne takes takes the The Father Christmas, or of themselves with all stuff stuffthemselves ass. And ail Father of his ass. waffies. wafres. cockerel and the the cockerel In Brittany, the black and white puddings and (girdle Bnt the the fouaces meal. But the meal. main part of the make up the main fouaces (girdle cakes in in the or that morning) or made that a star, star, freshly made the shape of a the most tra.d!l:Iolrlal traditional the most still the a cross, cross, are are still the nolets nolets topped with a that of the delicacies. Best-known of the cake cake that the far, is the of aU all is far, the someone once said had nation. of a a nation. robustness of had the the robustness At one's among one's to distribute distribute among custom to the custom it was was the At one time time it friends small loaf caUed calld pain A huge huge 10af gdteaux called nieulles. A called nieul/es. small gteaux de and divided before and the night night before kneaded the was kneaded de calandre calandre was and piece had cut off off and had been been cut a small small piece after a the family, family, after amongst the remedy kept as as a a remedy was kept This was four crosses. crosses. This or four marked with with three three or for for ail all ills. In and aa Eve and on Christmas Christmas Eve loaf is is made made on In Creuse, Creuse, this this 10af carefully This with it. it. This oven with put into gflteau is into the the oven is put carefully prepared gteau to properties and is put aside aside to and is special properties gdteau is have special is said to to have is that that The belief is man or or beast. beast. The of man illness of in case case of of illness be used used in person ail piece to ailing person to the the ailing small piece take a a small is to to take has to to do do is all one one has in immediately. him immediateJy. to cure cure him in order order to In god-daughters aa godfathers give their their god-daughters the godfathers In Roussillon, Roussillon, the plrleapp.le it that that Joseph Joseph has it tortell. Legend has pineapple Joaf a tortell. loaf called called a gave to the the hastened to whohastened shepherds who the Catalan Catalan ch"nh''''T',-Ic gave this Joaf loaf to to the stable time. at Christmas Christmas time. stable at FEUILLANTINE flaky pastry with ftaky made with Puff-pastries made IBUILLANTINE - Puff-pastries dough times. These itself66times. into 33upon upon itself folded into rolled out out and and folded dough rolled pastries cm. (2 inches) strips 55cm. in strips pastries are of the the dough dough in are cut cut out out of long shed withwhite white of brushed wide.They Theyare are bru inch) wide. long and and 2 2 cm. cm. @inch) egg, in aa baked in granulated sugar and baked sugar and sprinkled with with granulated eEE, sprinkled moderate moderate oven. oven. Feuillantines also, and also, teaand afternoon tea served with withafternoon are served Feuillantinesare instead with ice icecream. cream. instead of of wafers, wafers,wlth

l0 10 thin thin slices slices from from the the noix noix ot or sous'noix sous-noix (U.S. (U.S. loin) loin) of of veal. veal. Flatten Flatten these these with with a a beater beater to to make make them them rectangular rectangular in in shape. Season Season with with salt, salt, pepper, pepper, and and a a pinch of of spices. spices. the than larger pork rather fat Cut a a very very thin thin slice slice of of pork fat larger than the slices slices of of veal. veal. Spread Spread a a slice slice of of veal veal with with fine fine pork stuffing stuffing of d to which has has been been added added a a third third of of its its weight of gratin gratin to which of FORCEMEAT) and and a a third third of its its weight weight of forcemeat (see FORCEMEAT)

the Lay the egg. Lay dry duxelles (q.v.), (q.v.), which which has has been been bound bound with with egg. with each with other, spreading each slices of of veal veal one one on on top of of the the other, with a a of stuffing. Cover with stuffing stuffing and and ending with a a layer layer of slice of of lower slice of the lower edges of thin thin slice slice of of pork pork fat. Fold Fold the the edges F,old the feuilleton. of the sides of pork failleton. Fold pork fat fat so so that that they they cover cover the the sides slice' lower slice. the 10wer of the those of over those slice over upper slice ihe the edges edges of of the the upper a buttered buttered it in in a Put it shape. Put into shape. Tie Tie the feuilleton neatly neatly into and onions and sliced onions and sliced rinds and bacon rinds stewpan stewpan lined with with bacon and simmer for 20 garni. Cover, Cover, and bouquet garni. Add a a bouquet carrots. carrots. Add (scant t 2t dl. dl. (scant with 2! Moisten with minutes. I pint, generous cup) minutes. Moisten (scant I pint, generous dl. (scant Add 2+ dl. down. Add Boil down. wine. Boil white wine. white to a a COllcentl'at<xj concentrated jelly. down to Boil down stock. Boil veal stock. cup) brown veal cup) good stock. stock. Cover, (scant pnt,Zf, cups) gooo 5 dl. dl. (scant with 5 Moisten with Moisten 2i cups) frequently. basting frequently. hours, basting for lf hours, oven for in the the oven and cook in and dish. put it serving dish. a serving it on on a and put Untie and the feuilleton. Drain the Drain feuilleton. Untie stock. the braising stock. of the fat of of the the fat few tablespoons of a few Pour on on a Pour with a a oven, basting frequently. Surround with in the the oven, Glaze in Glaze garnish with with or gamish (see GARNISHES) or garnish (see Bourgeoise garnish

2t

(z.

etc. cucumbers, etc. lettuce, cucumbers, chicory, lettuce, celery, chicory, braised celery, if and, if Strain and, stock. Strain the braising stock. from the fat from the fat Remove the Remove stock this stock of this a few few tablespoons of Pour a down. Pour boil down. necessary, boil separately. rest Cf"r,<>r"tf"hJ the rest serve the and serve meat and over the meat over is perfectly rectangular in the feuilleton that the To ensure ensure that To feuilleton is pieces of white rectangular pieces thin rectangular with thin in with boxed in can be be boxed it can shape it shape position in position kept in and kept sides, and and sides, bottom, and the top, top, bottom, laid on on the wood laid wood with string. with different mixtures, with different made with be made also be can also This dish can This Madeira instead in Madeira be braised braised in It can can be salpicons. It atfr salpicons. stuffings; and stuffings, white wine. wine. of white of FRoID jelly. FEUILLETON vEAU FROID DE VEAU rnurrnroN DE in jeUy. veal in coH vea1 of cold Feuilletm of Feuilleton Feuilleton for Feuilleton asfor thefeuilleton as cook thefeuilleton and cook Prepare and cnrin- Prepare A LA GELE it on on and put it Trim and weight. Trim under aaweight. Cool under veal d l'ancienne. l'ancienne. Cool of veal of jelly in it enough half-set over it Pour over bowl. Pour in aa bowl. of weil-set well-set jelly b"d of aa bed jelly having the with the jelly (the jelly bee,n enriched with having been it (the to cover cover it jelly to -braising juice). Chili Chill meat juice). unthickened meat with unthickened diluted with stock diluted braising stock ice. on ice. on onVEAU vsA,uA rnutll,EToN DE p6rigurrdine. FEUILLETON la prigourdine. veal I la of veaI Feuilleton of Feuilleton for pfntcounDlNE - Prep<lfe indicatedfor asindicated the feuilleton Prepare the la PRIGOURDINE LA feuilleton as meat ofmeat the slices slicesof spreadingthe I'ancienne,spreading veal dl'ancienne, of veal Feuilleton of Feuilleton grasand one-third andone-third two-thirds foiegras of two-thirds made of stuffing made with with aa stuffing Madeira. inMadeira. Braisein truffies added. Braise dicedtruffies withdiced fine stuffing with fine grassauted in sauteed in slicesoffoie of foiegras andslices strips oftruffie of truffieand Gamish Garnish withstrips butter. butter. porkor large orlarge ofpork method,feuilletons same method, thesame Using Using the feuilletons of can.b9 Poultryfeuilletons cold'Poultry hotor orcold. servedhot beserved poultry can canbe be feuilletons can garnish andgarnish sauceand withaasauce servedwith andserved stockand inwhite whitestock braised in poultryentres. entrdes. forpoultry suitablefor especially especially suitable

FEUILLE SCCCHEESE. CHEESE. DREUX - _See DE DREUX FEUILLE DE FEUILLETON slicesof ofveal veal thinslices made from fromthin Preparation made FEUILLETON -- Preparation or laid andlaid of stuffing, and with layersof pork, beaten flat, spread with or pork, beaten fiat, one the up,the been builtup, the other. When Whenitit hasbeen on top top of of the oneon feuilleton porkcaul, porkfat fator orpork caul, thinslices slicesof ofpork inthin is wrapped in feuilleton is and way. in theusual usualway. and braised braisedin Feuilletoo onVEAU vsAuA ITEuILLEToNDE I'ancienne. FEUILLETON veal l'ancienne. ofvea1 Feuilletmof L'ANCIENNE cut lb.),cut kg. @llb.), weighing 22kg. Foraafeuilleton L'ANcrEr.nrE - For feuilleton weighing

tothe the English roughly equivalent equivalentto Caskroughly FEUILLETTE - Cask FEUILLETTE I 14litres litres (25 ofbetween between114 quarter-cask,with capacityof withaacapacity quarter-cask, (31 gallons,39 39 gallons)' gallons, 31 gallons) and 140litres litres(31 and140 31gallons) gallons, gallons, litres (29 holdsbetween between 133litres Theordinary ordinaryfeuillette The gallons, feuilletteholds (29|gallons, gallons),and gallons,37 and the 37 gallons)and 135litres litres(291and135 36|gallons) gallons), the (31gallons, gallons,39 39 gallons). litres(31 140 holdsup upto to140 largefeuillette large litres feuillelte -Burgundyholds ll2littes (241 holdsbetween betwee,n112 onlyholds TieBurgundy feuillette The feuilletteonly (25gallons, gallons,31 31 gallons)' gallons,30! gallons)and litres(25 and114 I 14 gallons, litres 30tgallons)

base widebase (fiascoin Italian)with witha a inItalian) flask FlASQUE (fiasco wide Wineftask FIASQUE- -Wine in straw. wrappedin and straw. usuallywrapped andlong longneck. neck.ItItisisusually

fish. Mediterraneanfish. FIATOLE Mediterranean IlItisis striking in Flatbroad broad FIATOLE- -Flat its leaden on and spots golden-yellowbars bars appearance and spots on its withgolden-yellow appearancewith
373 373

FIELAS FILAS
grey skin. It is fairly delicate to eat. All recipes for turbot grey skin. It is fairly delicate to eat. Ail recipes for turbot (q.v.) are suitable for this dish. (q.v.) are suitable for this dish. F.IEllS - Name given in provence to the conger eel (q.v.), FILAS - Name given in Provence to the conger eel (q.v.), which is one of the ingredients of bouillabatrre. It can be bouillabaisse. It can be which is one of the ingredients of stewed, cooked m matelote, etc. in the same way as eel. stewed, cooked en matelote, etc. in the sa me way as eel. Driedfigs. figs.FIGUES FrcuEsSCHES sicnns- -In Inthe the south of France, figs Dried south of France. figs are are preservedby bydrying dryingin inthe thesun. sun.Very Veryripe ripeautumn autumnfruit preserved fruitisis used. Thefigs, figs, spreadout outon onhurdles, hurdles,are areexposed exposed tothe used . The spread to the sun.They Theyhave haveto tobe beturned turnedover overseveral several times duringthe during sun. times the and,before beforethey theyare are completely dried, dried,are areslightly drying completely slightly {ryingand, flattened.Treated Treatedin inthis thisway, way,figs figs willkeep keep verylong tongtime. iime. will a avery fiattened. Driedfigs figsare areeaten eatenas asthey theyare. are.They Theycan can alsobe Dried also stewed, be stewed, likeail allother otherdried driodfruits, fruits,and andare areused usedin invarious varioussweets like sweets pastries. andpastries. and peeland Figfritters. fritters.BEIGNETS BETcNETs DE DEFIGUES Frcurs- - Peel quarterthe andquarter Fig the figs.Steep Steepthem themfor for30 30minutes minutesin inbrandy brandyor orsorne someother figs. other andsugar. sugar.Dip Dipthem them in inlight lightbatter barterand anddeep-fry. liqueur, deep-fry. llOueg1 and (SeeFRITTERS.) FRITTERS.) (See Leg of plg with ofwild wild pig withfigs. figs.CUISSOT curssor DE DEMARCASSIN MARcAssrNAUX Leg AUx FIGUES- - Draw Draw the thesinews sinews from from the themeat, meat,wipe FIGUES wipeit, it,thread thread itit withJardoons, lardoons, and place ititin andplace inaacooked cooked marinade marinadefor with for10 l0days. days. Wipe the the meat meat and and roast roast with withherbs herbsuntil untilcooked cookedbut Wipe butslightly slighily rare. rare. Make aacaramel. caramel. Add Add half half marinade, marinade, ha half vinegar to Make If vinegar tothe the residue in in the the roasting roasting pan. pan. Boil Boil this this down poachsorne down and residue and poach some fresh figs figs in in il. it. Drain Drain these theseand andarrange arrange around around the fresh the roast roast leg leg pork. Continue of pork. Continue to to reduce reduce the the liquid, liquid, add of add kneaded kneadod butter, butter. and serve serve this this sauce sauce separately. separately. and F[ marmalade marmalade -- See See MARMALADES. MARMALADES. Fig poRc AUX Pork stew stew with green figs. with green figs. DAUBE olunr DE DE PORC Pork AUx FIGUES FrcrJEs vERrEs -- Brown Brown a a fiUet fillet of of lean lean pork pork in in lard VERTES lard with with chopped chopped onions. Add Add 1 glass water, I glass water, and and a a bouquet bouquet of parsley, thyme, onions. of parsley, thyme, and bay bay Jeaf. leaf. Season Season with with salt salt and pepper, Simmer and pepper. and Simmer for for 1 I hour. hour. Poach small green figs small green figs in in water. water. Crush pimento in Poach Crush a a pimento in the the juice of of 1 I lemon. lemon. Add Add this this to to the pork. Simmer the pork. juice Simmer for for 1 I or or 2 2 minutes and and then then serve pork surrounded serve the the pork surrounded by minutes by the the fig.'). figp. Stewed figs. figs. COMPOTE courorE DE DE FIGUES FrcuEs -- See Stewed See COMPOTE. COMPOTE.-f'rg tart. ttrt. TARTE rARrE AUX AUx FIGUES FrcrJEs -- See See TART. TART. Fig Fig wine wine or or figuette. figuette. VIN vrN DE DE FIGUE, FrcuE, FIGUETIE Fig FTcuETTE Medicinal - Medicinal drink made made from from dried figs. drink

FIELDFARE. LrroRNE Large type of thrush with greyish FIELDFARE. LITORNE - - Large type of thrush with greyish head-feathers. It is less delicate than the true thruih. All head-feathers. It is Jess delicate than the true thrush. Ali recipes for thrush (q.v.) are suitable for fieldfare. recipes for thrush (q.v.) are suitable for fieldfare. FIELD-POPPY OIL. HUILE HUrLED'OEILLETTE D'oerLLErrE - - EdibJe Edibleoil oil FIELD-POPPY OIL. obtained by pressing the seeds of the white poppy. obtained by pressing the seeds of the white poppy. This oil is also known in France as white oil and olivette. oil is also known in France as white oil and olivette. ItThis has the same culinary uses as olive oil. It has the same culinary uses as olive oil.

FIG. rrcue Fruit of the fig tree. FIG. FIGUE - - Fruit of the fig tree. a{e_thry types of fig, the white fig, the purple fig, Jhgre are There three types of fig, the white fig, the purp/e fig, and the redfig. These three types are subdivideO into a larg.e and the red fig. These three types are subdivided into a large number of varieties. number of varieties. French figs are grown in the Midi, mostly in Var. The , French figs are grown in the Midi, mostly in Var. The best-known varieties are buissone, belloni, bourjasotte, best-known varieties are buissone, be/lone, bourjasolle, cClestine col de dame, dauphine violette. These figs are c/estine col de dame, dauphine violette. These figs are exported fresh between June and November. exported fresh between June and November. The fig is also grown throughout the whole of the MediterThe fig is also grown throughout the whole of the Mediterranean basin. Algeria is the principal supplier of dried figs. ranean basin. Algeria is the principal supplier of dried figs .

tree fruits tree with with fruits

Branch offig Branch of fig

FILBERT. name for FIL BERT. AvELTNE AVELINE for the the hazelnuL hazelnut. The - Another name filbert tree, tree, which which produces these these nuts, filbert nuts, is is a a variety variety of the common haze! hazel tree. tree. They They are are called common this because they called this they are ripe about Saint Philbert's day - 22 August. Recipes for for filbert nuts will be found under HAZELNUT. HAZELNUT. FILLET. FILLET. FrLE'rF1LET- Undercrrt Undercut of sir/oin of ofbeef. of the sirloin beef. A cut taken from the fleshy part part of the buttocks of other animals. animais. For methods methods of of preparation preparation see see BEEF, BEEF, MUTTON, MUTTON, VEAL,
Besides being the sweetest of all fruits, the fig contains Besides being the sweetest of ail fruits, the fig con tains appreciable of Vitamins Vitamins A, A, B, B, and and C. C. It It has has appreciable quantities quantities of laxative lax.a tive and and digestive digestive properties properties (although (although if if eaten eaten when when under-ripe is a a risk risk of of its its causing causing an an irritation irritation of of the the under-ripe there there is mouth mouth and and lips). lips). Figs Figs are are more more nourishing nourishing when when dried dried and, and, like prunes, are improved by soaking for twenty-four hours like prunes, are improved by soaking for twenty-four hours before before use. use. Fresh Fresh figs figs are are usually usually eaten eaten raw raw in in their their natural natural state. state. They They can can be be served served as as hors-d'euvre hors-d'uvre with with raw raw ham ham in in the the same way as melon. same way as melon. Figs can also be cooked in various ways. ways. All Ali recipes recipes for for Figs can also be cooked in various (q.v.) apricots figs. apricots (q.v.)are are suitable suitablefor for figs. A A fermented fennented drink drink is is made made from from figs, figs, and and also also a a spirit spirit which whichis ishighly highly przed prizedby bythe theArabs. Arabs. In central Europe roast figs areused used to to flavour fiavour coffee. coffee, as as In central Europe roast figs are chicory isin inFrance. France. chicoryis pound sorne Corsican Corsican anchoyade. anchoyade. ANcHoIADE ANCHOIADE coRsn CORSE - Pound some p".ld garlic, figswith withaapinch pinchof of garlic,and anddesalted desaltedanchovy anchovy peeledfresh freshfigs fillets. resulting bread fillets.Spread Spreadthe the resultingpaste pasteon onslices slicesof of breadmoistened moistened with witholive oliveoil. oil.Cover Coyerwith withchopped choppedonions. onions. 374 374

PORK. PORK. Filet Filet mignmmignon - Small Smali cut cut of of meat meat taken taken from the the end of of the the beef grilled or or saut6ed. sauted. (See (See BEEF.) BEEF.) beef fillet. filleL Filets Fi/ets mignons mignons are grilld This This term term is is also also applied applied to to fillet fillet of lamb lamb (q.v.), mutton mutton (q.v.), (q.v.), veal veal (q.v.), (q.v.), and and pork pork (q.v.). (q.v.). Fillets of fish. fisb. FrLErs FILETS DE DE porssoN POISSON - Fish Fish cut cut lengthwise lengthwise off off Fillets of the of sole, sole, whiting, whiting, the central central bone bone before before cooking, cooking, e.g. e.g. fillets fillets of etc. etc. Filleb of poultry poultry and and wingd winged game. game. FTLETS FILETS DE DE voLArLLEs VOLAILLES FUets of ET ETDE DE GrBrERs GIBIERS DE DE pLUrf{E PLUME- In In France France afilet afi/et as as applied applied to to game game or or poultry poultry is, is, in in the the strict strict sense: sense: l. 1. The The under under part part of of the the breast breast of of poultry poultry and and winged winged game. game. 2. 2. The The breasts breasts themselves themselves of of poultry poultry or or game, game, cut cut off off before beforecooking cooking and and prepared prepared in in various various ways. ways. They They can can be be used orwhen whenthey theyare aretoo too fat, fat, as as in in the thecase caseof ofturkeys, turkeys, used whole wholeor cut cut into into thin thin slices. slices. The Thebreasts breastsof ofpoultry poultryand and game gameare aremore more often often known known in in cookery cookeryas assuprmes. suprmes.

FILLETTE FILLETTE-- Name Namefor foraasmall smallwine winebottle bottleused used mainlv mainly for for is about about $tlitre litre (generous (generous }t pint, pint, Anjou wines. wines. Its Its capacity capacity is {njou

l|Itcups). cups).

FISH FISH
FINANCIRE (A ( LA) LA) - Method Method of preparing preparing meat meat and FINANCDRE poultry. poultry. Financiire Financire garnish garnish (which is also also used used to to fill fill pies and vol-au-vent) vol-au-vent) consists consists of of cocks' cocks' combs combs and and cocks' and kidneys, quenelles, quenelles, lambs' lambs' sweetbreads, sweetbreads, mushrooms, olives olives kidneys, and strips strips of of truffies. truffies. and FIN DE DE SIECLE SICLE - See CHEESE. CHEESE. FIN The appellation FINE - Liqueur Liqueur brandy brandy (spirit of wine). wine). The FINE
comes. must be be followed followed by by the the name name of of the the region whence it cornes. must (See (See COGNAC, COGNAC, Fine Fine Champagne.) Champagne.)

to mean sometimes used FINES HERBES - This term terrn is is sometimes used to FINES rather than a mixture of herbs and and thus an chopped parsley rather parsley in chopped parsley aux fines fines herbes contains only cbopped omelette aux addition to the the usual seasoning. addition herbs, such Actually, fines fines herbes should be a a mixture of herbs, Actually,
as parsley, chervil, chervil, tarragon, tarragon, and and chives. as FINTE - Fish somewhat similar to the shad. Like the shad, FINTE It month later. It it returns to the rivers to spawn, but about a month differs from the shad in shape, being rather more elongated, elongated, di-ffers and unlike the shad it has very sharp teeth in both jaws. The finte the sbad shad (q.v.). as the finte is prepared in the same way as FIRECREST or FIRE-CRESTED WREN. WREN. ROITELET RoITELET -or FIRE-CRESTED FIRECREST

impossible to to fire, it it was was impossible great heat of the heat of that, in view of the great the fire, during stirred during to be had to which had certain disbes dishes which use use it it for for certain be stirred pots. prepared in in small small cooking cooking pots. which were prepared cooking cooking or or which propped on on firefirewere propped live charcoal charcoal were 'stoves filled 'Stoves filled with with live for height for at a a convenient convenient height hearth and and at the hearth dogs away from from the dogs The kitchen kitchen easier. The much easier. very much working. They made cooking very and kept kept little stoves stoves and off these these little food off ate their their food staff even even ate staff time. same time. warm at the same themselves warm though tbey they were were in design, design, though simple in 'Kitchen firedogs firedogs were simple 'Kitchen apartments living apartments for living designed for care. Those designed forged with great care. Few scroll work. work' Few with scroll richly ornamented with were often often very very ricbly were much have much century have the fifteenth fifteenth century made before firedogs made before the firedogs merit.' artistic meri t.'
polssoNs -- Most world and the the fish fish world edible and Most fish fish are are edible FISH. POISSONS FISH. nourishing The most most nourishing of food. food. The source of an enormous source presents anenormous salmon salmon, salmon then come salmon, lampreys, th river eels eels and and lampreys, fish are are river fish en come eel. conger eel. and tbe the conger herring, and fresh herring, mackerel, turbot, turbot, fresh trout, trou t, mackerel, means are by by no no means they are although they Among the least nourishing, although lemon sole. sole. and lemon sole, and are bream, bream, sole, to be be despised, despised, are to protein as It proportion of as meat. meat. It of protein same Fish contains the sa contains the Fish me proportion and contains contains value and food value the same same food has approximately approximately the has rich in in D. It It is is rich B and D. Vitamins Band of Vitamins amounts of significant amounts significant and contains contains in calcium, calcium, and deficient in and iodine, iodine, deficient phosphorous and than meat. meat. less iron iron tban less per 75 per much the the same same -- 75 is much fish is all fish content of of aIl The water water content The from species species to to little from vary little also vary The albuminoids albuminoids also cent. The cent. per cent. are fats are The fats 18 per cent. The about 18 species -- they they constitute constitute about species rich in in quantities. There fish very very rich There are are fish variable quantities. found in in more more variable found (26 per rich in in fats fats per cent); fish fairly fairly rich cent); fish such as aseel eel (26 fat fat content, content, such (8'42 per per cent), (12'5 per per cent), cent), shad (8-42 cent), shad such lamprey (12,5 such as as lamprey (7'91 per per cent), and (8'31 per cent), and per cent), sturgeon (7'91 cent), sturgeon mackerel mackerel (8,31 pike, ray ray and and as pike, (6 per fish sucb such as per cent); lean fish and lean herring herring (6 cent); and bream. bream.

(q.v.). prepared like like lark lark (q.v.). which is prepared Small singing bird which

LANDIER FIREDOG. LANDIER - Large kitchen andiron. In de du mobilier mobilier franais, raisonnd du his Dictionnaire Dictionnaire raisonn In his frangais, de l'poque Le Duc Duc Viollet Le d la la Renaissance, Renaissance, Viollet l'dpoque carolingienne carolingienne defines in the their uses uses in describes their and describes firedogs and antique firedogs defines antique kitchens of our ancestors: ancestors: 'Stoves much less less compartments were much 'stoves divided divided into several compartments frequently food The food are today. today. The they are than they in kitchens than frequently used used in was understood be readily understood It will will be fire. It the open fire. was cooked cooked over the
i:tt:
,

::ii

llll tlilj :rl!i'

Fish (Nicolas) (Nicolas) Fish

375 375

FISH KETTLE KETTLE FISH

Recipesfor for different differentfish fishare arelisted listedin intheir their alphabetical alphabetical Recipes order. order. porssoN- Ingredients. Fish mousse. monsse.MOUSSE Moussn DE DE POISSON Fish kg - Ingredients.1I kg (net weight), fish (net weight),44to to55egg (2fpints, whites, li 1|litres litres(2i pints, eggwhites, (2i lb.) fish Q+lb.) thickcream, 5f,cups) cups) fresh fresh thick cream,It 1| teaspoons teaspoonssalt, salt, f teaspoon teaspoon pepper, pinch pinch of white pepper, ofspices. spices. white Method. Season Season the the fish fish with pepper,and with salt, salt, pepper, and spi spices, Method. ces, and and pound in inaamortar mortaras possible. While asfinely finely as pounding, add aspossible. While pounding, pound add theegg eggwhites whites aalittle little at ataatime. time. Rub Rub the themixture mixturethrougb throughaa the finesieve. sieve. fine pan and Put it it in in aapan (or in and leave leave to tostand stand on ice(or place) Put onice inaacool cool place) for 2 2 hours. hours. Add Add the thecream, cream,aa little little at ataa time, time, stirring stirringwith for with aa wooden spoon. spoon. wooden Fill aa mould mould three-quarters three-quarters full full with Fill with the the mixture. mixture. Stand Stand poach in in water water and and poach in aa moderate moderate oyen. in oven. When When cooked, cooked, leave to to stand stand for for aa few few seconds seconds before leave before turning turning out. out. Appropriate garnishes garnishesare: cancalalse; various ate: cancalaise; Appropriate various species species of of mushrooms sauted saut6od in in butter; butter; shrimps; mushrooms shrimps; dieppoise; dieppoise; freshfreshwater crayfish; crayfish; Joinville; Joinville; Nantua; Nantua; marinire: water marinidre: mussels; mussels; green peas normande; green peas in in butter; normande; butter; asparagus asparagus tips tips in in butter; butter; prince s s e ; trouvillaise; tr ouv il lais e ; Victoria. Victoria. princesse; garnishes are Recipes for for ail the garnishes given under all the Recipes are given under GARGARNISHES. Fish Fish mousses mousses are are covered NISHES. covered with with one one or or other other of of the the (q.v.) to following sauces sauces (q.v.) following to blend blend with garnish selected: the garnish with the selected: antrore, cardinal, cardinal, cream, cream, shrimp, shrimp, curry, parsley, aurore, curry, diplomate, diplomate, parsley, lobster, Joinville, Joinville, marinire, mariniire, Nantua, Nantua, normande, lobster, normande, ravigote, ravigote, riche, vnitienne, vdnitienne, Victoria, Y ictoria, white white wine. riche, wine. Fish roes roes on m toast. toast CROTES cRoOrES AUX Atx LAITANCES Fish LArrANcns -- Poach Poach roes roes juice, and in a a little little butter butter and and lemon lemon juice, place on in and place on rectangles rectangles of of bread fried fried in in butter. butter. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with breadcrumbs bread breadcrumbs which which have have juice over been fried fried in in butter. butter. Squeeze Squeeze lemon lemon juice been put in over and and put in a a hot oyen. oven. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with chopped parsley. hot chopped parsley.

st

Fish for for bouillabaisse bouillabaisse (French (French Government GovernmentTourisl Tourist Office) Ofice) Fish

The flesh flesh of of fish, fish, therefore, therefore, does greatly in does not not differ differ greatly in The content from from the the flesh flesh of of land land animaIs: animals: it perhaps it may may perhaps content contain slightly slightly less less nitrogenous nitrogenous substances, substances, but but the the fat fat contain proportion of content and and the the proportion mineral is of mineral is substantially substantially the the content particular that samg in in particular phosphorated compounds. that of of phosphorated compounds. Owing Owing same, (particularly lean to the the fact fact that that fish fish (particularly lean fish) fish) is is easily easily digestible, digestible, to it is is an an excellent excellent food food for for children children and and expectant expectant mothers mothers it but it it must must be be fresh, fresh, not not oily, oily, and grilled, in and served served grilled, soup, or in soup, or but baked. baked. practical point From the point of the practical view, it of view, it is is interesting interesting to to note From quantity of the quantity of waste waste of of a a whole whole fish. fish. Thus Thus carp, carp, fresh fresh cod, cod, the and sole sole carry per cent carry 50 50 per cent waste, waste, bass per cent, perch bass 47 47 per perch and and and trout 44 44 per cent, small (such as small frying frying fish fish (such gudgeon and as gudgeon trout per cent, per cent smelts) from from 40 40 per per cent, and the fresh sardine cent to to 30 30 per sardine smelts) per cent. only 20 20 per cent. only Fish is is subject subject to to speedy speedy decay decay by by bacterial bacterial action action and Fish often causes causes food it is absolutely fresh. often food poisoning poisoning if if it is not not absolutely At the freshness freshness of of fish can be recognised by At the the market, market, the fish can the flesh; a c1ean clean fresh smell, without without any the firmness firmness of of the the flesh;a fresh smell, suggestion of sweetish or suggestion of anything anything musty, must y, unpleasant, unpleasant, sweetish pungent; stand out out and pungent; bright bright eyes, eyes, which which should should stand and not not be embedded and bright rod embedded in in the the orbits; orbits; bright bright scales and red gills. trIat FJat fish. fish. porssoNs POISSONS pLATS PLATS - There are are two two kinds kinds of of flat fish: fish flattened flattened vertically vertical/y (such (such as as ray or or skate) the upper, fish: fuh exposed andfish exposed side side being being dark dark and and the underside white; white; and fish flattened flattened laterally, lateral/y, which which are are the real flat flat fish, the white and dark dark sides sides representing representing the the flanks, flanks, the back back and and the belly belly being being represented represented by by the the flattened flattened sides; the two two eyes eyes are both both on on the the same same side (the (the coloured coloured side). Depending Depending on the the position position of of the the eyes, eyes, flat flat fish fish are are classifid classified into into dextral species, species, if if the the eyes eyes lie lie on on the the right right side of of the the head, and and sinistral sinistral species, species, if if they they are on on the the left. left. The The anus is is always always visible visible on on the the underside. underside. Plaice, Plaice, flounder, flounder, sole, and lemon lemon sole sole are are right-sided; right-sided; while while sardine, sardine, turbot, turbot, and and brill brill are are left-sided. left-sided. Poisonous The flesh flesh of of certain certain varieties varieties of of fish, fish, Poisonous fish fish - The generally generally those those inhabiting inhabiting tropical tropical seas, seas, is is permanently permanently poisonous; poisonous; other other species, species, such such as as grey grey gurnard, gurnard, carpcarpbream, bream, garfish, garfish, etc., etc., become become poisonous poisonous at at certain certain times. times. Venomous These fish, fish, the the flesh flesh of of which which is is often often Venomous fish fish - These excellent, excellent, must must not not be be confused confused with with fish fish mentioned mentioned in in the the preceding preceding paragraph. paragraph. Venomous Venomous fish fish have have dorsal dorsal f;ns f.ns armed armed with with spines spines which which are are grooved grooved and and provided provided with with poison poison glands. glands. These These can can cause cause very very painful painful and and even even dangerous dangerous wounds wounds if if they they are are handled handled without without due due preprecaution caution as, as, for for instance, instance, in in the the case case of of the the weever weever or or stingstingfish. fish.
376 376

porssoN$nn FISH KETTLE KETTLE (Fish boiler). POISSONIRE FISH Kitchen Kitchen Oish boiler). utensil intended intended for for cooking utensil cooking fish. fish. It It usually usually contains contains a a grid which makes possible to removable grid makes it it possible to take take out out the the fish fish without breaking it.
FISSURELLE gasteropod mollusc in a Species of FISSURELLE of gasteropod a conical - Species shell similar to that of the limpet or barnacle. sheU barnacle. It It has radiating radiating and is is perforated at ribs and tip. Fissurel/es at the tip. Fissurelles live in in temperate temperate and tropical waters and and there and there are about a a hundred different types. The Greek Greekfssnrelle, fissurelle, called types. called Saint Peter's ear, ear, is is very very Mediterranean. common in the Mediterranean. All AU recipes for octopus (q.v.) are suitable for this mollusc.

ffi
Fissurelle Fissurelle

Fistulina hepatica Fistulina

FISTULANE - Common Common French French name name for for a a headless FISTLJLAI\E mollusc also also known known as as gastrochire. gastrochre. lts Its shell sheU is is tubular. mollusc
Fistulanes Fistulanes are are cooked cooked in the the same same way way as as cockles cockles (q.v.). (q.v.).

what what tasteless tasteless edible edible fungus fungus which which grows grows on on the the trunks trunks of of oak trees. trees. It is is commonly commonly known known in in France France as langue-delangue-deoak boeuf (ox (ox tongue) tongue) orfoie-de-boeuf or foie-de-boeuf (ox (ox liver). liver). In In U.S.A. U.S.A. it it is is boeuf known as as liver /iver fungus. fungus. known
FLAGEOLET - See See BEAN. BEAN. FLAGEOLET

FISTULINA HEPATICA. HEPATICA. FrsruLrNE FISTULINE nfplfleus HPATIQUE - A someFISTULINA - A some-

1. 1. Mimolette Mimolette 2. 2. Boulette Boulotto d'Avesnes d'Avesnes 3. Maroilles 3. Maroilles 4. Maroilles mignon 4. Maroill$ mignon 5. d'Avesnes Baguette d'Avesnes 5. Baguette 6. Bondard -neufchtel 6. Bondard'neufchttel 7. 7.Camembert Camombrt 8. cammbart 8. Petit Potit camembert 9. aromatis6 crCmearomatis Triplecrme 9.Triple 10. 10,Triple Triplecrme cr6me 11. Brie 11 . Bric 12. Saint-paulin 12.Saintpaulin 13. portions enportions 13.Saint-paulin Saint-paulin en 14. Petit paulin saint-paulin 14. Petitsaint-

15. l'vque 15. Pont Pont-l'6vque 16. - l'vque pont-l'6v6que 16, Petit Petit pont 17. 17. livarot Livarot 18. 18, Sainte-maure Sainte-maure 19. 19.Coulommiers Coulommiers 20. Carr 2O. Carr6de do l'Est l'Est 21 . Petit l'Est 21. P6tit carr de l'Est carr6 de 22. Munster 22. Munstr 23. Petit munster 23. Petit munster 24. Baby 24.Baby 25. pour tartine Fromage pour tartine 25.Fromage 26. Comt 26. Comt6 27. Valenay 27. Valengay 28. 28.Chvre bondes Ch6vrebondes

29. de Chavignol Chavignol 29. Crottin Crottin de 30. chCvre Charolais chvre 30. Charolais 31. ch6vre 31. Pyramides Pyramides chvre nantais 32. 32. Cur Cur6 nantais 33. 33. Chabichou Chabichou 34. Toucy 34, Toucy 35. Cantal 35.Cantal 36. nectaire Saint-nectaire 36.Saint37. Saint-gorlon 37.Saint-gorlon 38. Saint-florentin 38.Saint-florentin 39. Epoisses 39.Epoisses 40. Langres 40. Langres 41 . Bleu deBresse Bresse 41. Bleude 42. 42.Gaperon Gaperon

d' 43. Fourme Fourme d' 43. Bleu d'Auvergne d'Auvergne 44. Bleu 44. Reblochon 45. Reblochon 45. 46. Emmenthal Emmenthal 46. 47. Beaufort Boaufort 47. grise 48, Tomme Tommegrise 48. 49.Saint-marcellin Saint-marcllin 49. 50.Roquefort Roqufort 50. Roquofort en tranches 51.Roquefort entranches 51. Pyr5n6cr desPyrnes 52.Fromage Fromage des 52. Poivred'ne d'tne 53.Poivre 53. Provence Banon de deProvence 54.Banon 54. (grafcheeee) raisin(grafcheese) Fonduau auraisin 55.Fondu 55. Niolo 56. 56. Niolo Asco 57.Asco 57.

FLAN FLAN
FLAKES. FLAKES. FLocoN FLOCON - Name Name given to certain certain cereals, flattened in in a a rolling-mill rolling-mil! and used used (in (in France) France) as a garnish in soups or or as as an an ingredient ingredient ofporridges. of porridges.

FLAKY FLAKY PASTRY. PASTRY. FET.TTLLETAGE FEUILLETAGE - See DOUGH. DOUGH. FLAMANDE FLAMANDE (A ( LA) LA) - Name Name of of a hotpot hot pot and of of a garnish, which which is is used used especially especially for for large large cuts of of meat meat served as as an

intermediate intermediate course. course. It It consists consists of of braised braised cabbage, cabbage, carrots, carrots, diced diced belly belly of of pork, pork, and and potatoes. potatoes. (See (See GARNISHES.) GARNISHES.) The The name name d la la flmnande flamande is is also also applied applied to to a method method of of preparing preparing asparagus asparagus (q.v.). (q.v.).

FLAMBER FLAMBER - To To sprinkle a a dish dish with spirits spirits which are are set
alight just before before serving. serving. alight just

FLAMICIIE FLA MICHE - Legrand Legrand d'Aussy d'Aussy (a (a French French scholar, scholar, 17371737-

'It 'It is is a a kind kind of of galette galette made made with with baker's baker's dough. dough. It It is is rolled rolled

1800), 1800), thus th us describd, described theflamiche the flamiche as as it was was made made in in his his day: day:

out out with with a a rolling-pin rolling-pin and and put put in in the the oven oven while while the the wood wood is is burning. buming. As As soon soon as as it it has has been been thoroughly thoroughly heated, heated, it it is is taken taken out out ofthe orthe oven oven and and spread spread with with butter. butter. It It is is eaten eaten as as soon soon as as it out of of the the oven.' oven.' it comes cornes out Nowadays Nowadays the the name name flamiche flamiche is is given given to to a a kind kind of of leek leek tart tart made made in in Burgundy Burgundy and and Picardy. Picardy. To To make make this this tart, tart, line hne a a buttered buttered tart tart tin tin with with pastry, pastry, fill fill with with sliced sliced white white leeks leeks which which have have been been cooked cooked slowly slowly in in butter butter until until very very tender, tender, blended blended with with yolks yolks of of egg egg and and well weil seasoned. seasoned. Cover Cover with with a a thin thin layer layer of of lining lining pastry. pastry. Press Press the the edges together and and crimp crimp them. them. Brush Brush with with egg egg and and bake bake edges together in in a a very very hot hot oven. oven. In of France, France, this this tart tart is is made made with with a a mixture mixture In some sorne parts parts of

offlour, of flour, egg egg yolks, yolks, yeast, yeast, sugar, sugar, and and rum rum or or brandy. brandy. FLAMINGO. FLAMINGO. rrarralNr FLAMANT - Wader Wader with with webbed webbed feet. feet. The The Romans Romans considered considered it it a a delicacy delicacy though though it it is is now now less less highly highly
prized. It is is cooked cooked in in the the same same way way as as bustard bus tard (q.v.). (q.v.). prized. It

northern northem France. France.

FLAMIQUE FLAMIQUE -A A form form of offlamiche flamiche made made in in some sorne parts parts of of

How to to prepare prepare flan flan cases cases How

covered of raw raw red red fruit. fruit. Boil Boil |t litre litre (scant (seant pint, pint, covered with with a a pur6e pure of

FLAMRI FLAMRI - A A semolina semolina pudding, pudding, usually usually served served cold, cold,

2f 2i

add I oz., add 300 300 g. g. (1 (II oz., l| I~ cups) cups) fine fine sugar, sugar, 2 2 whole whole eggs, eggs, a a pinch pinch of ofsalt salt and and 6 6 stiffiy stiffly whisked whisked egg egg whites. whites. Pour Pour the the mixture mixture into into a a buttered buttered mould, mould, put put it it in in a a pan pan of of hot hot water, water, and and bake. bake. Leave Leave to to cool. cool. Turn Tum out out the the pudding pudding and and pour pour over over it it a a pur6e pure of ofsweetensweetened redcurrants, raspberries). raspberries). ed raw raw red red fruit fruit (strawberries, (strawberries, redcurrants,

cups) cups) white white wine wine with with the the same same quantity quantity of of water. water. Gradually Gradually pour pour into into it it 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz., oz., l| 1t cups) cups) fine fine semolina. semolina. Mix. Simmer gently gently for for 25 25 minutes. minutes. To To this this 'porridge' 'porridge' Mix. Simmer

Flan cases cases are are made made of of short short pastry, pastry, fine fine lining lining or or ordinary ordinary Flan pastry, pastry, sweet sweet pastry, pastry, semi-flaky semi-flaky pastry, pastry, or or with with left-overs left-overs of puff puff pastry. pastry. of FLAN AUx AUX poMMEs POMMES cRMALDT GRIMALDI - Cut Cut Apple flan flan Grimaldi. Grimaldi. puN Apple 4 big big cooking cooking apples apples into into quarters quarters and and cook cook them them in in vanillavanilla4 flavoured syrup. syrup. Drain Drain and and arrange arrange in in a a flan flan case case (U.S. (U.S. pie pie flavoured prepared in in the the following following manner: manner: shell) filled filled with with rice, rice, prepared shell) Bake the the flan flan case case blind blind in in a a flan flan ring. ring. When When ready, ready, fill fill Bake with cooked cooked sweetened sweetened rice, rice, mixed mixed with with a a salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) of of with candied orange orange peel peel shredded shredded very very finely, finely, flavoured flavoured with with candied Curaao, and and with with I1tablespoon tablespoon butter butter added added to to it. it. Curagao, Put the the well-drained well-drained apple apple quarters quarters on on this this rice, rice, sprinkle sprinkle Put with crushed crushed macaroons macaroons and and castor castor sugar sugar and and glaze glaze in in the the with oven. oven. This flan flan is is served served hot, hot, accompanied accompanied by by Curagao-flavoured Curaao-flavoured This Custard crearn cream (see (see CREAM). CREAM). Custard FJan I la la bordelaise bordelaise - Bake Bake a a flan flan case case blind. blind. Fill FiJI with with a a Flan coarse salpicon salpicon of ofbeef beefbone-marrow bone-marrow mixed mixed with with diced, diced, lean, lean, coarse ham and and blended blended with with very very thick thick Bordelaise Bordelaise sauce sauce cooked ham cooked (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Decorate Decorate the the top, top, alte.rnating alternating strips strips of of poached poached and and drained, drained, bone-marrow bone-marrow with with fresh fresh mushrooms mushrooms which have have been been sliced sliced and and sauteed sauted in in oil. oil. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with which breadcrumbs. Pour Pour on on melted melted butter. butter. Brown Brown toasted breadcrumbs. toasted hot oven. oven. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with chopped chopped parsley. parsley. quickly in in a a very very hot quickly la bourguignonne bourguignonne - Bake Bake a a flan flan case case blind. blind. Fill Fill with with FJan ila Flan mixture prepared prepared as as follows: follows: Simmer Simmer l0 10 sliced sliced white white leeks leeks a mixture a in butter, butter, without without browning. browning. When When very very tender, tender, add add 3 3 dl. dl. in (tpint, pint, l| li cups) cups) Bichamel Bchamel sauce sauce (soe (see SAUCE) SAUCE) enriched enriched with with $ dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seant It c.rp) cup) fresh fresh cream, cream, boiled boiled and and I1 dl. 377 377

FLAMUSSE FLAMUSSE (hrrgundian (Burgundian pastry) pastry) - Flan Flan made made of of lining lining pastry pastry filled filled with with a a cheese-flavoured cheese-flavoured cream cream blended blended with with
eggs. eggs.

FLAN -- Pastry Pastry preparation preparation whose whose name name comes cornes from from the the FLAN metallurgical metallurgical term termflan flan (a (a metal metal disc). dise). The The flan flan has has been been in in existence many centuries. centuries. The The Latin Latin poet poet Fortunatus Fortunatus existence for for many (53M09 (530-609 A.D.) A.D.) mentions mentions it. it. He He says says that that Saint Saint Radegonde, Radegonde, as as an an exercise exercise in in mortification, mortification, made made flans flans but but ate ate only only the the
coarse outer crust crust of ofrye rye or or oatmeal oatmeal dough. dough. coarse outer A Aflan flanis isan an open open tart tartfilled filled with with fruit, fruit, cream, cream, etc. etc. Flans can be be served served as as hors-d'euvre hors-d'uvre or or as as a a light light main main Flans can course, course, and and as as such such have have a a savoury savoury filling. filling. They They are are also also served served as as a a sweet. sweet. Recipes Recipes for for savoury savoury flans flans and and some sorne sweet sweet flans flans are are given given below. below. Recipes Recipes for for sweet sweet flans flans are are also also given given under under TART. TART. (In (In U.S.A. U.S.A. a a flan flan is is known known as as a a tart tart or or pie.) pie.) Flan Flan cases cases -- Made Made in in the the same same way way as as tart tart cases, cases, and and are are

either either baked baked blind blind (unfilled) (unfilled) or or with with the the indicated indicated filling. filling.

Fresh Freshfruits: fruits:pineapple, pineapple,orange, orange,black, black,red redand andwhite whitecurrants, curranl5, melon, melon,cherries, cherries,apricot, apricot,strawberries, strawberries,mango, mango,raspberries, raspberries,peach, peach,banana, banana, avocado avocadopear, pear,grapefruit, grapefruit,apples apples(Phot. (Phol.Larousse) Larousse)

FLAN
strained. strained. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with grated grated cheese. cheese. Pour Pour on on melted butter and brown in the oven. oven. Brillat-Savarin flan. flan. FLAN BRILLAT-SAVARIN - Bake blind a flan flan case case made of Fine Fine lining paste (see (see DOUGH). Fill creamy scrambled eggs this cru st with with very very creamy eggs and and trufres. truffies. this crust stripe of seasoned Decorate the the top with strips seasoned truffie dipped dipped in grated Parmesan. melted melted butter. butter. Sprinkle with with grated Parmesan. Pour Pour on melted butter. Brcwn Brown in a very hot oven. re cARorrEs A la flamande. Carrot Carrot flan flan i la flamande. FLAN FLAN DE DE CAROTTES LA with finely chopped chopped carrots, FLAMANDEFill an unbaked flan with FLAMANDE - Fill boiled in a little water with butter, sugar, and flavouring to boiled custard, slightly taste. taste. Moisten Moisten with with a a few few tablespoons custard, thickened with potato flour or arrowroot. sprinkle Bake Bake in a moderate oven. Just before before it is cooked sprinkle is evenly the oven ove,n until it is with icing sugar retum to to the until it sugar and and return glazed. This flan can be served hot or cold. glazed. FLAN AU FRoMAGE FROMAGE Cheese flan flan. rulN Cheese - Line a flan ring, standing (see Fine lining sheet, with with Fine lining paste on a a buttered buttered baking baking sheet, paste (see on follows: Boil as follows: mixture preparod DOUGH). Fill a mixture Fil! with with a prepared as g.(2 thick fresh cream with 50 g. t litre (scant (scant pint, 2} 2i cups) thick (2 oz., { salt, pepper and and nutmeg. Add with salt, i cup) butter. Season with cup) butter. (4 oz., g. (4 stove to flour and and mix mix on on the the stove 100 100 g. I cup) cup) sieved sieved flour oz., 1 obtain a cream. obtain a rather thick cream. Take the pan off off the heat and add to the cream 4 egg yolks Blend into and 150 g. (5 oz., It cups) grated Gruyre oz.,l| Gruydre cheese. Blend to a a very very stiff the eggs, beaten to the mixture the the whites of the eggs, beaten whites of the foam. Bake the flan in a a hot oven. such as Dutch cheese, Other Other types types of of cheese, cheese, such as Cantal, Cantal, Dutch Parmesan, etc., can be used used for this flan. Parmesan"
pieces. into thick pieces. ragofrt of chicken livers livers cut cut into a ragot Prepare a quickly in in sizzling saut6 quickly and pepper, and saut Season with salt and Season pepper, and keep hot. hot. In In the the sa same livers and and keep Drain the livers butter. Drain me butter, (5 oz.) g. (5 Drain and Season. Drain 150 g. sliced mushrooms. Season. oz.) sliced saut6 150 saut warm with the chicken livers. keep wann pan in ($ pint, into the the pan in scant cup) cup) Madeira Madeira into 2 dl. dl. (t Pour 2 pint, scant cooked. Boil have been which the the livers livers and and mushrooms have which been cooked. (generous -t pint, I-t l| cups) thn Bdchamel cups) thin down. Add Add 3-t 3+ dl. dl. (generous down. Bchamel I pint, cup) fresh cream. sauce (see SAUCE) and 2 dl. (! pint, scant cup) and liver and and mushrooms and Add to this sauce sauce the pieces of liver to this Add sieve and a sieve the sauce through a thick. Strain the fairly thick. cook until fairly put the livers and in it. it. Keep hot without and mushrooms back back in the boil. bringirfg bringirtg to the (they should be Add 2 rather soft). soft). Add some eggs (they be rather Scramble sorne (3 tablespoons) grated Parmesan and 2 2 tableParmesan and tablespoons) grated tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) livers and butter. Put Put the the chicken livers spoons (3 tablespoons) butter. spoons Cover with with the of the flan. Cover mushrooms at at the the bottom bottom of the flan. mushrooms melted on melted scrambled eggs. Sprinkle with grated cheese. Pour on scrambled very hot hot oven. and brown a very butter and brown in a rtlN D'CREVISSES o'fcRrvtssss A flan I la la Nantua. Nanhra. FLAN crayfi$ flan Freshwater crayfish Freshwater tail Fill with with Crayfish Bake a flan case case blind. Crayfish tail LA NANTUA a flan blind. Fill LA - Bake (see CRA mixed with with truffies. truffies. ragofit CRAYFISH) h la la Nantua (see ragot YFISH) mixed quickly in hot oven. very hot Brown quickly in a a very Brown lobsters, and shrimps, crabs, lobsters, and spiny spiny All shellfish shellfish flans, with shrimps, AU omitted. can be omitted. in this way. The truffies can lobster are prepared in with a flan case blind. blind. Garnish with i la h financire financiOre flan case Flan - Bake a ragofit with concentrated Demid la financidre a ragot financire thickened with a glace (see (se SAUCE) flavoured with with Madeira. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with Madeira. glace oven. in the the oven. breadcrumbs. Brown in Fill with with a Bake a case blind. blind. Fill a t la la florentine a flan flan case Flan - Bake squeezed, coarsely coarsely spinach (cooked whole, drained, squeezed, layer of spinach with Mornay Cover with simmered in in butter). butter). Cover chopped, and and simmered chopped, (se SAUCE). grated cheese. on cheese. Pour Pour on sauce (see SAUCE). Sprinkle Sprinkle with with grated sauce a hot hot oven. in a and brown brown in oven. melted butter and melted poIREAUx AU FRoMAGE -AU FROMAGE FLAN DE DE POIREAUX Leek flan flan with with cheese. cheese. FLAN Leek sheet. Lirie Lide with with flan ring on on a a buttered baking sheet. Stand a a large flan Stand (see DOUGH) Remove the DOUGFD and bake blind. blind. Remove Fine lining lining paste (see Line the the flan flan flan on an ovenware dish. Line on an flan ring. ring. Place the the flan ovenware dish. flan (see SAUCE). Mornay sauce sauce (see SAUCE). with a a few few tablespoons tablespoons Mornay with short parboiled for leeks, parboiled for a a very very short a few few white white leeks, on top a Arrange on with mornay mornay sauce sauce in butter. butter. Co Cover time ver with time and and simmered simmered in pour grated Parmesan, Sprinkle with with grated Parmesan, pour enriched with with butter. butter. Sprinkle enriched oven. in the melted butter, butter, and and brown brown in the oven. on on melted onions instead instead of of be made made with This flan with small small onions flan can can also also be This glazed first. first. leeks. The The onions must be be weil well glazed leeks. onions must A LA LA CRME cniun -ruN AUX Aux FRAMBOISES FRAMBoIsEs cream flan. flan. FLAN Raspberry Raspberry cream sugar. raspberries. Cover with sugar. from the the raspberries. Cover with Remove Remove the the stems stems from (see CREAM) flavoured French pastry cream crecun (see CREAM) flavoured Put a layer of of French a layer raspberries and and flan case. with raspberries with vanilla on on a a baked flan case. Cover Cover with jelly. of raspberry raspberry jelly. a a smal! small amount amount of flan case Fill with with chicken chicken reine Bake a a flan case blind. blind. Fill Flan Flan i la la reine - Bake (see SALPICON). toasted reine (see Sprinkle with with toasted Salpicon la reine SALPICON). Sprinkle Salpicon d la hot oven. Decorate the the in a a very very hot oven. Decorate breadcrumbs and and brown brown in with strips strips of of truffle. truffie. top top of of the the flan flan with RICE. Rice flan flan See RICE. - See Line the the bottom bottom flan case blind. Line Flan la Sagan Bake a a flan case blind. Flan i la Sagan - Bake (q.v.) of in truffies blended blendod in with of mushrooms mushrooms and and truffles a salpicon salpicon (q.v.) with a powder. Arrange of Arrange slices slices of curry powder. cream seasoned with with curry cream and and seasoned strip of of top, with with a a strip calves' in butter butter on on top, brains sauted saut6ed in calves' brains (se, SA SAUCE) truffle UCE) with Mornay Mornay sauce sauce (see slice. Cover Cover with truffie on on each each slice. pour on grated cheese, on cheese, pour flavoured curry. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with grated flavoured with with curry. a hot hot oven. oven. in a melted and brown brown in melted butter, butter, and Bake a a flan flan case case of of Seafood Attx FRUITS FRUITS DE DE MER MER -- Bake rrlr.I AUX Seafood flan. flan. FLAN (see DOUGH). pastry (see with a a Fill with paste or DOUGH). Fill Fine Flaky pastry Fine lining lining paste or Flaky (oysters, mussels, crayfish tails, tails, seafood freshwater crayfish ragofrt (oysters, mussels, freshwater seafood ragot Normande cockles, Blend in in rather rather thick thrck Normande other shellfish). shellfish). Blend cockles, and and other (sw SAUCE). breadcrumbs, sauce with toasted toasted breadcrumbs, SAUCE). Sprinkle Sprinkle with sauce (see hot oven. oven. pour pour on brown in in a a hot melted butter, butter, and and brown on melted

(Debillot. Phol. Selection Selection of of flans flans (Debillol. Phot. Larousse) Larousse\

Cheese flan FLAN AU AU FROMAGE FRoMAcE JULIETTE JULIETTE flan Juliette Rcamier. R&amier. FLAN flan ring ring on on a a buttered metal baking Stand a a flan buttered metal - Stand (see DOUGH). paste (see sheet. Fine lining DOUGH). Fill Fill the the sheet. Line Line with with Fine lining paste bottom of the flan flan with with beef beef bone-marrow dipped in in conconof the bone-marrow dipped parsley centrated centrated veal veal stock stock and and flavoured flavoured with with chopped chopped parsley and the moisture has and shallot shallot cooked cooked in in white white wine until until aU all the evaporated. pepper, and grated nutmeg. nutmeg. salq pepper, and grated evaporated. Season Season with salt, FiU French pastry the flan flan half-full half-full of cream cream made made like like French Fill the (see CREAM) grated cheese cream uearn (see with grated cheese but unsweetened, with CREAM) but and oven. and a a little fresh cream cream added. added. Bake in in a a moderate moderate oven. As place on ready, tum on an an As soon soon as as the the flan flan is is ready, turn it it out out and and place ovenware dish. few tablespoons tablespoons dish. Decorate Decorate the the top top with with a a few very very soft soft scrambled scrambled eggs eggs flavoured flavoured with with cheese. cheese. Sprinkle Sprinkle with grated grated cheese and and brown brown as as rapidly rapidly as as possible. Chicken FLAN DE Dts FOIES FoIEs DE DE VOLAILLE VoLAILLE Chicken liver liver flan flan Chavette. Chavette. FLAN CHAVETTE (see paste (see Make a Fine lining lining paste cHAvETTE -- Make a flan flan case case with with Fine DOUGH) and and bake bake blind.
RCAMIER nfcltrrnn -

378 378

FLOUNDER FLOUNDER
ShelffiS Shellfisb flan. n,c.N FLAN DE cRUSrAcEs CRUSTACS - Using cooked lobster, crayfish, or some sorne other other shellfish, and a sauce sauce appropriate appropriate to the fish chosen, chosen, proceed proceed as indicated in the recipe for Freshwater crayrtshflan crayfish flan d Ia la Nantua. Sole flan i la normande. normande. rr,tN FLAN DE sot,Es SOLES A u LA NonulNDE NORMANDE Fillets of sole prepared it anang& as a border la normande normande arranged border in a flan crust. crust. Cover Coyer with Normande sauce (se (see SAUCE) and and garnish garnish as as indicated indicated for for Fillets of sole d la normande normande (see (see SOLE). Fish flans of of all ail kinds kinds can be made made in the same same way. Fillets Fillets of of fish are are first poached poached in white white wine or or cooked cooked in butter butter and arranged as a border in the flan. flan. Any meatless garnish can be put in the flan and covered covered with a sauce appropriate appropria te to the garnish used. province has has much much in in common common with with that that of Artois Artois and and Picardy. Picardy. C\finary chitterlings of Cambrai and and Culinary speialities specialities - Baby chitterlings Armentidres; Armentires; smoked smoked tongues tongues of of Valenciennes; Valenciennes; craquelots craquelots of Dunkirk (herrings (herrings smoked with the leaves of the hazelnut tree); tree); soupe verte (green soup); Flemish hotpot; hotpot; poule poule au au prunes; tartine de blanc white sauce); sauce); rabbit rabbit with withprunes; blanc (chicken in white
beurre. beurre.

The The purpose of seasoning seasoning is is to to give give relish relish to to food. food. Information relative to aromatic plants and their uses uses in the kitchen kitchen will be found found in the entry entitlod entitled CONDIMENTS.
FLETcISRISIT,TE FLETCHRISME - Doctrine established established by Horace Horace Fletcher, Fletcher, American industrialist, who restored his gravely failing health by following an extremely austere diet (after book on on the the subject). subject). He (after having having read read Gornaro's book claimed to to have discovered the the 'golden 'golden key key to to health' in claimed mastication mastication pushed pushed to its extreme limits: not swallowing swallowing a a mouthful mouthful of of food until it was reduced to the state of of a liquid liquid pap and had lost all ail its flavour. flavour.

FLETCHERISM.

FLEUR DE DECAWILLE DECAUVILLE - See CHEESE. CHEESE. FLEUR FLEUR DE FARIhIE FARINE - Pure wheaten wheaten flour. ITLEUR

FLANDERS. FLANDERS. ruNoRE FLANDRE

- The The cookery cookery of this this northern northern -

FLEURON - Small Sm ail flaky flaky pastry motif used used to to decorate decorate
certain top of ofpdtis pts in pastry pastry crust. certain dishes dishes and the top
FLELTRS FLEURS DE DE VINVIN - Little Little whitish whitish or bluish bluish flakes, caused caused by development of of mycoderma mycoderma vinr, vini, which appear in wines wines the development The appearance appearance of of these these flakes flakes generally on the the turn. turn. The on precedes acid fermentation. fermentation.

Among are; apple Among the the best-known best-known sweets and and pastries pastries are: apple pdti pt of of Avesnes; craquelins craquelins of Roubaix; caruis carrs of Lannoy; kokeboterom of Dunkirk (small buns made made with eggs and and butter, butter, sweetened sweetened and and decorated with with raisins); red plum plum
tarts: tarts; couques; bAtises btises from Cambrai. Cambrai. Good Good cheeses cheeses are are made made in in French Flanders. Those Those of Bergues, Bergues, Mont-des-Cats Mont-des-Cats and and Marolles Marolles (a (a very very pungent pungent cheese) cheese) are are the best best known. known. Beer is the the local local drink, drink, and and good good quality quality spirits spirits are Beer is distilled from from juniper juniper and beetroot. beetroot.

FLOATING ISLAI\D. ISLAND. lrr ILE rlormNru FLOTTANTE - Cut into thin layers layers FLOATING a stale Savoie (sponge) (sponge) cake. cake. Steep the slices in kirsch and sprinkle maraschino. Spread Spread each one with apricot apricot jam and sprinkle maraschino. currants. with chopped blanched almonds and dried currants. Build up the cake into its original original shape by laying the slices one on top of of the other. Ice with Chantilly Chantilly ueon cream (see (see CREAMS) flavourod flavoured with with vanilla. Decorate Decorate with almonds, CREAMS) chopped pistachio Pour chilled vanillavan illapistachio nuts, and currants. currants. Pour flavoured flavoured custard over the cake. The The pulp pulp of strawberries, raspberries, or or redcurrants, redcurrants, be used used instead of of custard. may be sieved and sweetened, may

FLANGNARDE - This flan, flan, which which is is sometimes called ca lied flognarde, is is made made in in Auvergne Auvergne and Limousin. Limousin. flognarde, Put 3 tablespoons tablespoons (scant (scant i cup) flour in a bowl. bowl. Break 3 3 eggs smooth eggs into into it. Add Add a a very very little little salt. Sweeten. Sweeten. Mix to a smooth paste, paste, adding I i litre (lj (l~ pints, pints, l| li pints) milk, milk, boiled boiled and cooled. Flavour Flavour with with vanilla vanilla or grated grated lemon lemon rind. Pour Pour through through a strainer into a deep buttered buttered ovenware ovenware dish. Dot Dot with with small pieces of of butter butter and and bake bake in in a a hot hot oven. oyen. Serve hot or cold. cold.
FLAh{K. FLANCHET - Cut Cut of of beef beef between between the the fat fat section section and and FLANK. FLANcHETthe the breast. breast. (See (See BEEF.) BEEF.) FLATTEN. FLATIEN. ArLATIR APLATIR - Action Action which which renders renders a piece piece of of meat meat (mtrec6te, (entrecte, rump rump steak, steak, escalope, escalope, cutlet, cutlet, noisette, noisette, etc.) etc.) thinner beater or mallet. mallet. Flattening Flattening thinner by by beating beating it it with a beater meat meat makes makes it it easier to to cook cook and and makes makes it more more tender. tender.

FLORENTII{E FLORENTINE (A ( LA) - Method Method of preparation used used mainly of spinach cooked in mainly for fish and and eggs, eggs, set on a bed of butter, covered with Mornay Mornay sauce sauce (see SAUCE), sprinkled sprinkled with and browned. browned. with grated cheese, cheese, and
FLOUNDER. ftlN FLOUNDER. rLEr, FLET, rT FLTAN - Common Common name name for a fish of the the same same family as as the the brill, brill, dab, dab, lemon sole, sole, sole, sole, and these others never leave leave the sea, sea, flounders, turbot. While these though though also saltwater saltwater fish, fish, are often found in fresh fresh water. They are even caught in the River Seine between between Pont-dePont-deI'Arche l'Arche and and Les Les Andelys. Andelys. The flounder is oval in shape, covered with tiny scales. scales. They colour from from greenish greenish brown brown to to blackish blackish They vary vary in in colour yellow, yellow, with with yellow, yellow, orange, or reddish reddish markings. markings. In In France, France, the the flounder flounder is is sometimes sometimes known known asflandre asflandre (or flondre) de de riviire rivire or or de de picard picard. In In former former times times it it was was flondre) incorrectly fltan (halibut) which which is is in fact, a quite quite incorrectly called ca lied flitot different northern waters. waters. different fish, fish, found in in northern In northern countries of of Europe, Europe, especially Norway, Norway, In northern flounders flounders are preserved preserved by by drying and smoking. smoking. All Ali recipes recipes for brill briU (q.v.) (q.v.) and and turbot turbot (q.v.) (q.v.) are suitable for for flounders. flounders. The The flounder flounder plays plays an an important part part in in American American cookery, cookery, often often taking taking the the place place of of sole and and turbot turbot which which are are not not found found in in American American waters waters and, and, having having to to be be imported, imported, are are rather rather expensive. expensive.

FLAVOURING. plnrur PARFUM - Before Before the the eighteenth eighteenth century, century, flavourings very today were were very different from from those those in in use use today employed aromatic employed often often excessively. excessively. As As well weil as as the the simple aromatic plants, plants, such such as as thyme, thyme, bay bay leaf, leaf, savoury, coriander, coriander, aniseed, aniseed, marjoram, marjoram, and and sage, sage, more more exotic exotic aromatics aromatics like essence essence of of roses roses or other other flowers, flowers, benzoin, benzoin, amber, amber, etc., etc., were were quite quite common. common. These These aromatics aromatics are are now now only only used used in in very very small doses doses in in the preparation of of sweet sweet courses, courses, in in pastry-making pastry-making and and the preparation confectionery. confectionery . Liqueur Liqueur wines wines such such as as Madeira, Madeira, Frontignan, Frontignan, porl port, sherry, sherry, etc. are widely widely used used nowadays nowadays for for flavouring. flavouring. etc. are Various Various brandies brandies (Cognac, (Cognac, Armagnac, Armagnac, Calvados, Calvados, etc.) etc.) are are used used for for flavouring flavouring sauces sauces and and gravies gravies and and for for bringing bringing out out the the taste taste of of preparations preparations such such as as game game stews, stews, salmis, salmis, shellfish shellfish d l'amiricaine l'amricaine or or d la la bordelaise, bordelaise, woodcockflambi, woodcockflamb, pressed pressed wild wild duck, duck, etc. etc.
379

Flounder Flounder

FLOUR
FLOUR. FARINE FARINE -- Flour ground and Flour is is the the finely finely ground and bolted bolted FLOUR. meal of of wheat wheat and and other other cereals, cereals, including including rye, rye, buckwheat, buckwheat, meal (corn), but rice oatmeal oatmeal and and maize maize (corn), but since since wheat, wheat, with with its its rice gluten, is content of of gluten, is best for breadmaking, best for breadmaking, the the word word flour flour content generally connotes connotes wheat wheat flour. flour. The The milling grain for milling of of grain for generally flour dates dates back prehistoric times. back to to prehistoric times. What What for for centuries centuries flour job of was the the hard hard domestic producing flour domestic job of producing flour that that could could be be was made into into bread, bread, has has developed developed through through the the ages ages into into aa made large industry. industry. There There is is evidence evidence that that wheat wheat or or corn corn was was large crushed and and used used as as food food at years ago; at least least 6000 6000 years ago; the the crushed pounding stones purpose have stones used used for for this this purpose have been been discovered discovered pounding in archaeological archaeological diggings diggings in in the the British British Isles, Isles, Switzerland, Switzerland, in and elsewhere. elsewhere. and The Romans Romans invented invented slightly slightly conical (querns) conical millstones millstones (guerns) The which were were turned turned by by hand hand or or by by slave slave and and beast. beast. Once Once the the which grain was was crushed, crushed, the the flour flour was was bol boltod through horsehair horsehair grain ted through produce different sieves to to produce grades of different grades of flour. flour. The The invention invention of of sieves the water-propelled water-propelled mill mill dates dates from from about about the the time time of of the the the birth of of Christ, Christ, and and it it was was also also at at this this time time that that flat flat millmillbirth stones were preference ta were used used in in preference to conical conical shapes. shapes. stones Windmills first first appeared appeared in in Europe Europe about about 1300 13CI and and were were Windmills used until until the the invention invention of of the the steam steam engine engine in in 1760. 1760. widely used From then then on on rapid rapid advances advances were were made, made, culminating culminating in in From roller mills, mills, invented perfected in invented and and perfected in Switzerland Switzerland between between roller 1834 and and 1836. 1836. The The roller roller system, system, with with many many modern modern 1834 mechanical improvements, is is stiJl still in in use use in in aU large comcomall large mechanical mercial mills.
grades)depending clear grades) germand depending on on the theamount amount of ofgerm andbran c1ear bran leftin in the theendospenn endosperm flour. flour. Freshly Freshlymilled milledwhite white flour flour isis left pale yellow yellow but butbecomes becomes whitewith white with ageing. ageing.To Tohurry hurry this this pale process most most mills mills use useaachemicaJ chemicalagent agent which which is isrigorously rigorously process government. Vitamin controlled by by the the government. Vitamin content controlled content lost lostin inthis this process is isusually usually replaced. replaced. process Dietitians blame processes for blame modern modern milling milling processes forcausing Dietitians causing the the lossof of certain certain essential essential elements proteic layer Theproteic elements of loss ofwheat. wheat.The layer is one. one. It It contains protein substances, contains three three times times more moreprotein is substances, nine nine times more more fatty fatty substances, substances, and times and ten ten times timesmore moreminerai mineral salts than than the the farinaceous farinaceous kernel kernelof salts grain. Then Thenthere ofgrain. thereare arethe the vitamins, diastases, diastases, enzymes, whichaccumulate vitamins, enzyrnes,which accumulate in inthe thehusks. husks. The same same applies applies to to the the wheatgenn, wheatgerm, which The which contains contains in inits its very small small volume, volume, substances substances of very of immense nutritional value. immense nutritional value. great elasticity The great elasticity of preventsitit being The of the the wheatgenn wheatgerm prevents being crushed in in the thecourse processes,and crushed course of of modern modern milling milling processes, andit itis is consequently discarded conseguently discarded with with the theother waste matter. matter. other waste Graham flour flour is ground from Graham is unbolted unbolted wheat meal ground wheat meal from the the whole kernel. kernel. Whole tire wheat whole Whole wheat, wheat, wholemeal wholemeal or or en entire wheat contains con tains aU all of of the the kernel kernel except portion of except aaportion the bran. of the bran.

FLOLTRING. FARINER FLOURING. rlnrnm. -- To To sprinkle sprinkle fish fish or or other other food food lightly with lightly with flour. flour. pieces of To To dip dip in in flour flour small small pieces of meat, meat, usually usually escalopes escalopes and and cutlets cutlets of of veal, veal, and and lamb lamb cutlets, cutlets, before before dipping dipping in inegg egg and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and frying in and frying in butter. butter.

(Atsatiur cookery) FLOUTES FLOUTES (Alsation cookery) -- Quenelles made with with Quenelles made potatoes. mashed mashed potatoes.
FLUKE. FLLjKE.
CARRELET cARR.ELET -

See PLAICE. PLAICE. - See

FLUORINE. - Under FLUORINE. FLUOR, FLUoR, FLUORURES FLUoRUREsUnder nonnal normal conditions, conditions, man man absorbs quantities of absorbs small small guantities of fluorine fluorine with with his his food, food, the the most most valuable valuable source source being being drinking drinking water. water. Children Children who who drink drink water water that that is is deficient deficient in in fluorine fluorine are are much much more more susceptible susceptible to to dental dental caries caries than than children children who who live live where where tains not the the drinking drinking water water con contains not less less than per than 1 I mg. mg. fluorine fluorine per litre. litre. Foods Foods richest richest in in fluorine fluorine are fish and are fish and tea. tea. Small Small amounts present in amounts of it are are present of it in meat, meat, egg, egg, cow's cow's milk, milk, and and fresh fresh vegetables. FLTE FLtnE -- The The long long French popular in French roll roll popular the Paris Paris region. region. in the The The flte potage is d potage long French is a a long French roll roll used used for for making making fl,frte crof,ttes served crotes served with with broths and and hotpots. hotpots. FLUTE. FLUTE. CANNELER cANNELER -- The The operation operation of of cutting cutting vegetables, vegetables, fruit, fruit, and and the the edges edges of of sorne some sweet sweet courses courses in in a a decorative decorative manner. manner. Vegetables, Vegetables, mushrooms, mushrooms, and and lemons lemons can can be be decoratively cut cut with with kitchen kitchen knives knives or or with with special special tools. tools. Circles of pastry pastry cut with a pastry-cutter are cut with a fluted-edged fluted-edgod pastry-cutter are said to be be cannels. cannelis. The The same same tenn term is is used used for for the the operation operation of marking marking the the sides sides of of a a cake with with a a small small knife, knife, although although this is is more often called (pinking). called chiquetage chiquetage (pinking). FOGOSCH Hungarian fish (q.v.). a pike-perch (g.v.). fish is is a - This Hungarian FOIE GRAS GRAS livers of the livers of fattened fattened - Preparations made from the geese and and ducks ducks were were known in the the ancient world. world. The goose was The goose was regarded regardd by by the the Romans Romans not not only only as as a a sacred en a (from the sacred animal animal (from goose saved the time time wh when a goose savd the the Capitol), but also also as as a a succulent succulent one, one, for for its its meat meat and and liver liver were highly highly prized by gounnets gourmets of the period. of the The Romans used various methods Romans used methods of of fattening fattening ducks ducls and and of causing causing a considerable swelling of of the the liver. Scipio Metellus, Scipio Metellus, a a Roman Roman gastronome, had had the the idea idea of of plunging the still wann warm livers in in a a bath bath of of milk milk and honey, and honey, where they were were left for several several hours. hours. When When taken taken out out of of the milk, the livers were were considerably swollen. swollen. In cookery the the name name foie foie gras is used only goose or is used only of of goose or a special duck liver fattened in a special way. way. The The livers livers of Toulouse of Toulouse Strasbourg geese geese sometimes kg. (41 lb.). and Strasbourg ($lb.). sometimes weigh weigh 2 zkg.
380 380

Flour Flour (.|[icolas) (Nicolas)

The wheat kernel is composed of three parts; endosperm, genn germ or or embryo, embryo, and bran. The The object object of ofmilling milling is to separate the endosperm from the bran bran and germ, germ, because white flour the endosperm is is derived derived from the the endosperm endospenn which generally comprises comprises 84 84 per per cent cent ofthe of the kernel, as opposed opposed to the 2 per cent content content

of germ germ and and 14 14 per cent content content of bran. bran. Modern commercial milling milling of wheat first first cleans the grain by means of mercial air blasts blasts and and disk disk separators. separa tors. After After this this the the wheat wheat is is air moistened and allowed allowed to 'temper', 'temper', a process process which hardens hardens moistenod the bran bran and and makes makes the the separation separation more more complete. the is accomplished accomplished by by alternated alternated reductions reductions Separation is Separation (rollings (rollings at at varying varying tensions), tensions), and and purifications (classifica(classificathe endotions by by mechanised mechanised winnowing winnowing and and sifting of the tions spenn particles, particles, the the bran bran chips and and the the germ). genn). The results results spenn of the se successive successive reductions reductions and purifications purifications are blended ofthese into various various standard standard and and commercial commercial blends (patents and into

FOIE GRAS

A A hinged rectangular rectangular mould mould and a hinged round round mould mould for pit6 pt (D (Dehillerin. Phol. Larousse) ehille r in. P ho t. Lar ous se)
PAt6 Pt de foie gras gras decorated by by hand, from an l8th 18th century century document document

Foie Foie gras gras is is regarded regarded as as one one of the the greatest delicacies delicacies available. available. 'The 'The goose,'says goose,' says C. G6rard, Grard, author author of of L'Ancienne L'Ancienne Alsace Alsace d table, table, 'is 'is nothing, but man man has has made made of it it an instrument instrument for the the output of of a marvellous marvellous product, a kind of living living hothouse hothouse in which which grows grows the the supreme supreme fruit fruit of gastronomy.' gastronomy.' This This 'fruit' 'fruit' isfoie isfoie gras, gras, from from which which are made made the the succulent succulent potted potted products products and and pdtds pts of Strasbourg, Strasbourg, Toulouse, Toulouse, P6rigueux, Nancy, etc. etc. Prigueux, Nancy, The foies gras gras comes cornes from geese reared reared in Alsace Alsace The finest finest foies and south-westem south-western France. France. Toulouse Toulouse foies foies gras are greatly greatly sought Duck foie foie gras gras is is also aJso very delicate, but has a sought after. Duck tendency in cooking. cooking. Other Other European European tendency to to disintegrate disintegrate in goorefoie countries countries besides besides France France produce produce very very good good go ose foie gras, gras, notably notably Austria, Austria, Czechoslovakia Czechoslovakia and the Duchy Duchy of of LuxemLuxemburg. burg. The The quality of of foie foie gras gras can be judgd judged primarily by its can be colour and It should be be creamy-white, creamy-white, and also also by by texture. texture. It tinged tinged with with pink, pink, and very firm. tr'oie Foie gras gras aspic aspic - See ASPIC. ASPIC. Foie Foie gras gras en en Bellevue Bellevue - Line a a plain mould mould with jelly. Decorate Decorate with with strips strips of of trufte truffie and the the whites whites of of hard boiled boiled egg. of jelly. jelly. Leave on ice egg. Cover Coyer these these with with a a second second layer layer of until foie gras gras or until thoroughly thoroughly set. set. Add Add slices slices of poached foie slices of of potted potted foie foie gras gras with with truffies. truffies. Fill the the mould mould with with slices half-set half-set jelly. jelly. Chill Chili on on ice. ice. Foie gras gras en en brioche brioche (hoQ (hot) - Season Season truffies truffies and and pour Foie brandy over over them. them. Take Take a a large, large, very very firm firm foie foie gras gras which which brandy will will not not disintegrate disintegrate in in cooking. cooking. Stud Stud it it with with the the trufres, truffies, and and season season with with spiced spiced salt. Pour Pour brandy brandy over over it it and and leave leave to to steep for for several several hours hours in this this seasoning. seasoning. steep Wrap the the foie foie gras gras tn in a a piece piece of of pork pork caul cau! (or in in very thin thin Wrap slices slices of of pork pork fat) fat) and and cook cook in a slow oven oyen for for 18 18 to 20 20 minutes. Put it it in in a a buttered buttered baking baking tin tin lined lined minutes. Leave Leave to to cool. cool. Put thickly with with unsweetened unsweetened Brioche Brioche dough dough (see (see DOUGH). DOUGH). thickly Coyer with with a a layer layer of of dough. dough. Tie Tie a a strip of of buttered buttered paper paper Cover round round the the tin tin to to prevent prevent the the dough dough from from overflowing overflowing during during baking. Leave Leave to to rise rise in in a a warm warm place. place. baking. in a a hot hot oven oyen for for 50 50 minutes minutes to to 1 hour. hour. To test test Bake in Bake foie gras gras is is cooked, cooked, drive drive in a a long long skewer. If If whether the the foie whether the skewer skewer comes cornes out out quite quite clean, clean, the/oie the foie gras gras is is ready. ready. Turn Turn the out the the brioche brioche and and serve. serve. out Foie gras gras en en brioche brioche (colO (cold) - Proceed Proceed as as for for Foie Foie gras gras en en Foie brioche (hot). (hot). Leave Leave to to cool cool before before serving. serving. brioche Foie gras gras en en chausson chausson - Proceed Proceed as as for for Foie Foie gras gras en en brioche. brioche. Foie Stud the/o,egras thefoie gras with with truffes truffies and and cook cook for for 18 18 to to 20 20 minutes. minutes. Stud Put it it on on a a rather rather stifflayer stiff layer of of Brioche Brioche dough dough (see (see DOUGH). DOUGH). Put Roll in in a a scroll scroll shape. shape. Bake Bake in in the the oven. oyen. Serve Serve hot hot or or cold. cold. Roll Foie grre gras en en cocotte cocotte or or n en casserole casserole - Trim Trim a a large, large, firm firm Foie

of

gras and stud stud with truffies truffles seasoned seasoned with Spiced saft salt (see foie gras SALT) and sprinkled sprinkled with brandy. Season Season thefoie the foie gras with with brandy and leave to steep for 12 hours. spiced salt, pour on brandy Brown Brown thefoie the foie gras in very hot butter. butter. Put in an ovenware dish. Moisten with the cooking Madeira cooking butter mixed with Madeira or any other heavy heavy wine and concentratod concentrated thickened brown veal veal stock. stock. Cover Coyer the the dish dish and and seal with a a strip strip of paste. oyen for 45 minutes to I 1 hour, according according to Cook in a slow oven the size of the the foie foie gras. Serve in the cooking cooking dish. croquettes and kromeskies. c6rerrrres, C6TELEITES, Foie gras cutlets, croquettes CROQUETTES, cRoMnseurs CROMESQUIS DE DE ForE FOIE GRAs GRAS - These cRoeLrETTEs, These different preparations, preparations, which are served as as hot hors-d'euvre hors-d'uvre or as as a are made from salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) of liver, liver, light main course, are light from salpicon added, in the same sa me way as as chicken cutlets, cutlets, diced trufres truffies added, with diced croquettes and kromeskies (see CHICKEN). 'eggs' (cold). onups OEUFS DE DE Fom FOIE cRAs GRAS FRorDs FROIDS - Foie Foie gras 'eggs' gras gras mousse (see (see MOUSSE) shaped shaped in in little little egg-shaped mou Ids. A truffie is is placed in the middle of each each mousse moulds. which wruch is coated coated with jelly jelly when it is quite cold and covered covered with brown or white Chaud-froid Chaud-froid sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). with The 'eggs' are built buiJt up into a pyramid or put in a nest of through a forcing-bag. forcing-bag. butter piped through Escalopes of foie gras Cambac6rts Cambacrs - Saut6 Saut slices of of foie foie Escalopes gras gras tn in butter. butter. Put each one on an artichoke artichoke heart cooked in salpicon of of mushrooms in cream. cream. butter and filled with a salpicon escalope arrange 2 thick strips of truffie. truffie. On top of each escalope Dilute the the cooking cooking butter butter with Madeira, Madeira, thicken thicken with DemiDilute glace (see SAUCE), SA UCE), flavour with Truffie Truffle essence, and pour the dish. dish. over the Escalopes of foie foie gras en chaud-froid - Slices of of foie foie gras gras Escalopes (plain or truffied) truffied) covered covered with white white or brown Chaud-froid Chaud-froid Decorate with trufles, truffies, whitc whites of hardsauce (see SAUCE). Decorate sauce boiled eggs, eggs, pickled pickled tongue, ton gue, and jelly. jelly. boiled The escalopes can be be served in individual individual paper cases, or in silver, porcelain, porcelain, or or glass shells; shells; each on a a bed bed of of chopped in jelly. jelly. They can can also also be arranged in a circle circle on a bed of set set jelly jelly in in a a bowl, bowl, and covered covered with jelly. jelly. Escalopes of foie foie gras gras with witb grapes. grapes. EscALopEs ESCALOPES DE DE ForE FOIE Escalopes GRAS AUx AUX RAISINS RAISINS - Saut6 Saut slices of/ore of foie gras gras rn in butter. Drain cRAs put each each on a slice of bread bread fried in butter. Decorate Decorate and put juices with with peeled peeled grapes. grapes. Dilute Dilute the the cooking cookingjuices with Frontignan with or other other heavy wine. wine. Boil Boil down, add add a a few few tablespoons tablespoons or brown veal veal stock, stock, and and boil boil again. again. Cover Coyer the the thickened brown thickened escalopes with with this this sauce. sauce. escalopes Escalopes of foie foie gras gras with with grspes grapes and and tmffies truffles (colQ. (cold). Escalopes ESCALOPES DE DE ForE FOIE GRAs GRAS AUx AUX RAISINS RAISINS ET ET ALrx AUX TRUFFES TRUFFES - Cook EscALopEs the foie foie gras gras tn in its its own own fat. fat. Cut in slices. On top of each each the truffie, dipped dipped in in jelly jelly so that it slice place place a a wide wide strip of truffe, slice will stick stick to to the the escalope. escalope. Glaze GIaze with with jelly. jelly. will

381 381

FOIE FOIE GRAS GRAS

Arrange Arrange the the escalopes escalopes in in a a circle cirde in in a a bowl. bowl. In In the the middle, middle, heap heap a a dome dome of of fresh fresh peeled peeled grapes which which have have been been steeped steeped in in a a little IiUle liqueur liqueur brandy. brandy. Cover the the dish dish with with clear cJear jelly jelly ffavoured fiavoured with with port port or or other other heavy heavy wine. wine. Chill Chill thoroughly thoroughly on on ice ice or or in in the the refrigerator. refrigerator. J<.:s.calop,es of of foie foie gras Montrouge M4:lDtrOllji!e - Saut6 Saut slic'a sUces of offoie Escalopes foie gras in in butter. butter. Arrange in a a circle, circle, each on on a a slice slice of of bread bread fried in butter. butter. Pile pile tfuck Mushroom Mushroom purde pure (se (see PUREE) PURE) in in the the in middle middle of of the the dish. dish. Cover Coyer the the escalopes escalopes with with their their cooking cooking juices juices diluted dluted with with Madeira Madeira and and veal veal stock. stock. Escalopes Esocalop;es of of foie foie gras gras Richelior Ricbeliw - Dip Dip slicer slices of of foie foie gras gras in in egg and breadcrumbs. Saut6 Saut in in clarified c1arified butter. butter. Arrange Arrange in a a circle cirde on a dish" dsh, and and pour pour over the,m them diced diced truffies truffies in in in melted melted butter butter flavoured flavoured with with a Cl little liule Madeira Madeira or or other other heavy heavy wine. wine. Escalopes ~alopes of of foie gras la la romaine romaine - Saute Saut slices of of /oie foie gras rn in butter. butter. Arrange on rounds rounds of of bread bread frid fried in butter. butter. Cover with Romaine Romaine sauce (see (see SAUCE). SA UCE). Serve with with rice rice cooked in butter. butter. Escalopes of of foie foie gras with with tmfres. truffies. BscALoPEs ESCALOPES DE DE FoIE fOrE GRAS GRAS A(x AUX rRuFFEs TRUFFES - Saut6 Saut slices of/orr offoie gras rn in butter. butter. Arrange Arrange on on rounds of of bread fried in butter. butter. Cover Coyer with with slices of of trufre truffle heated heated in the butter butter in which whch the escalopes escalopes have have been been cooked. Dilute Dilute the cooking cooking juices juices with Madeira Madeira or other other heavy wine wine and Demi-glace (se (see SA:UCE), SAUCE), and pour pour over the dish. Stud a foie gras Foie gras la financilre financire - Stud gras with with truffies. truffies. on brandy brandy and saft (see SALT). Pour on with Spiced salt Season with leave leave to steep for a a few few hours in in this seasoning. Wrap the a slices of of pork caul or foie gras in pork park caul or thin thin slices pork fat. fat. Cook in a foie 45 minutes. Madeira, for 40 to 45 adding Madeira, braising stock, addil1g braising of bread on slices slices of serve on Drain, and Serve Drain, and bread fried fried in in butter. Sur(see GARNISHES) GARNISHES) to which round with Financiire Financire garnish (see which has been and straned, strained, has stock, concentrated and the braising the braising stock, added. more This dish is DE FOIE FoIE G{{AS GRAs PAIN DE loaf (hot). PAlN Fofu gras loar s more - This on as such such on describod as usually described and is is usually a loaf and a souffi6 than a than a (hot)') gras mou.sse (See MOUSSE, mousse (hot).) Fol'e gras MOUSSE, Foie restaurant menus. (See Ll GELE crrfn A LA DE FOrE FoIE GRAS GRAs gras loar rarN DE in jelly. loaf in Foie gras Foie ielly. PAIN jellied stock. stock. Madeira-flavoured jellied in Madeira-flavoured liver in large fat fat liver a large Poach a Poach slices. cut one lobe into slices. drain, and cut Cool, drain, poached, liver was was poached, liquor in which the liver Remove fat from the liquor Remove jellied stock based on on quantity of stock base<! of jellied an equal equal quantity to it it an and add add to and fine ChamCham' of fine Add a small glass of a small stock. Add trufle stock. concentratod trume concentrated with a a and hiod bind with liquor by by half, and pagne brandy, boil down the liquor boil down (7 oz., g. (7 scant 200 g. oz., seant yolks. Heat, Hea! incorporale incorporate 200 4 egg egg yolks. liaison of of 4 liaison for recipe for in the the recipe described in and proceod as described cup) butter butter and cup)

with with truffies truffies and and the the whites whites of of hard-boiled hard-bolled eggs. eggs. Fill Fil! only only to to within within I 1 cm. cm. G (t inch) inch) of of the the top. top. Cover Coyer the the mousse mousse with with a a layer layer of ofjelly. jelly. Chill Chill in in the the refrigerator. refrigerator. Turn Turn out out onto onto a a buttered buttered slice sUce of of bread bread or or onto onto a a serving serving dish. dish. Surround Surround with with chopped ehopped jelly jelly and and make make a a border border of of jelly cut eut out out with with a a pastry-cutter.

HoWandaise sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Hollandnise (l teaspoon) gelatine teaspoon) gelatine When just warm, add to it 2 leaves Cl When rubbed the liver liver rubbed rest of of the and the the rest water, and warm water, soaked in warm soaked much. too much. stirring too BlenC without without stirril1g fine sieve. sieve. Blend a fine through a through jelly. Decorale of the the walls of Decorate the the walJs clear jelly. with clear mould with a mould Coat a Coat liver composition composition FiU with with the the liver of truffies. truffes. FiJI with slivers slivers of mould with mould and liver and of the the slieed sliced liver layers of with layers them with layers, alternating them in layers, in jelly. Leave on Leave to to set set on layer of of jelly. with a a layer of tfumes. truffies. Cover wilh slivers of slivers refrigerator. or in in the the refrigerator. ice or ice plain. Garnish Garnish or plain. crotton, or crustless croton, on a a buttered Serve on butterod crustless Serve with jelly crotons. crofitons. with of Slices of DE FOIE FoIE GRAS GRAS -- Sliees gras medllUiollS. ufo,l'trroNs DE merlallions. MDAILLONS Foie gras be can be They can medallions. They gras are called medallions. are sometimes sometimes called fOe foic gras gras). (see Escalopes offoie Escalopes of hot or or cold cold (sec served hot served foie gras). cooked (cold). MOUSSE Rub cooked DE FOn: FoIB GRAS GRASgras mousse Moussn DE mousse (cold). Foie gras Foie - Rub with 2{ dl. dl. in aa bowl bowl with gras through fine sieve. sieve. Put Put in through aa fine foie gras jelly and (f; pint, 4 dl. dl. (~ and 4 ginerous cup) melted jelly cup) melted pint, generous lscant t f piat, (see SAUCE) to every every litre velouti (sec SAUCE) to Chickm velout scant 2 2 cups) ctps) Chicken seant gently pur6e. Work (l| pints, generous quart) quart) pure. mixture gently pints, generous Work trus this mixture (H (l pint, partly whisked pint, seant whisked 2 cups) cups) partly 4 dl. scant 2 Add 4 dl. G on ice. ice. SeasolJ. Season. Add on fresh cream. cream. fresh jelly and decorated lined with and decorated mould lined with jelly mixture in in aa mould Put the the mixture Put

2t

Foie gras gras motrsie mousse (hot) - See MOUSSE. Foie Foie gras gras mousselines (colo. (cold). MoUSSELINES MOUSSELINES DE DE FoIE FOIE cRAs GRAS Use Use the the same same mixture mixture as as for for Foie Foie gras mousse mousse (cold). (cold). Put Put jelly. into into little little cups and and decorate decorate with with trufres. Glazp Glaze with wi\.h jelly. Dicd Diced truffies may may be be added added to to the the mixture' mixture. Foie Foie grre gras pancakes pancakes la la P6rigottrdine. Prigourdine. plNuEQUErs PANNEQUETS DE DE FoIE FOrE cRAs GRAS A r-1, LA pfntcouRDINE PRIGOURDINE - Make Make thin thin unsweetened unsweetened chopped pancakes. pancakes. Fill Fll them them with with foic gras mixed mixed with with truffies truffies and and flavoured flavoured with a a little Armagnac. Roll the pancakes pancakes into into scrolls, serolls, trim trirn at at each each end, end, and halve halve them. them. Put Put them them on on a a buttered buttered disb, dish, sprinkle sprinkle lightly lightly with will fried fried in the oven. breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, and and wann warm for for a a few few minutes minutes in the oyen. Foie Foie grre gras with with paprika (colO. (cold). FoIE fOIE cRAs GRAS AU AU PAPRIKA PAPRIKA - Stud Stud thefoie the foie gras gras with trufles. trumes. Season Season with with salt salt and and paprika, paprika, and and pour pour brandy brandy over. over. Wrap Wrap it it in in a a piece piece of of pork park caul caul and and poach poach to cool. Unwrap, leave in in Madeira. Madeira. When When cooked, cooked, drain drain and and leave to cooL Unwrap, with Chaud-froid press into into shape in in a a cloth. cloth. Cover Cover with Chaud-froid sauce sauce (see SAUCE) SAUCE) flavoured with with paprika. paprika. Decorate Decorate with witb strips strips of of truffe, truifle, and and green green and and red red sweet sweet peppers, peppers, cut eut into iDto rings rings seconds in and and poached for for a a few few seconds in jelly. jelly. and cover Glazn the foie gras gras with with jelly. jelly. Put Put it it in in a a dish dish and caver or other with clear jelly flavoured fiavoured with with port port or other heavy wine. wine. Parfait of foie gras Parfait gras (cold) (cold) - Name Name given given to to several preparapreparaanother. one another. quite considerably considerably from tions tions which whjch differ differ quite from one of foie a mousse was a of foie grat was a parfait of In ID former former times times a mousse of studded with with gras tnjelly. gras in jelly. Nowadays it is a whole/oie gras, studded stock, cooled cooled poached in in a truffies, truffies, poached a Madeira-flavoured jellied stock, injelly. served in and served and jelly. a parfait a pdti of as a describe as cookery describe on cookery writers on Some writers Sorne parfait a an ordinary from an differs from pastry crust which differs crust which in pastry foie gras gra:; in foie pockets empty pockets of the the empty gras, only instead of only because because instead pdti fu foie gras, pt de pdt6 is being (which appear is cold) cold) being the pt appear when when the surface (which on the the surface on jelly. with jelly. filled with are :6Hed fat, they are or goose fat, with butter butter or filled with filled 'To 1 I kg. kg. P6riguurx (old recipe) - 'To foie grs de Prigueux Pltd of of foie Pt pork fat; fat; gras; kg. (3+ lb.) pork (2* lb.) 12 foies trufres add 12 lb.) truffies foies gras; kg. Make chopped. Make all chopped. mushrooms, ail parsley; spring onions;and spring onions; and mushrooms, layer of of sliced sliced pork fat a layer with a fat covered covered with chopped pork of chopped the pdti of spices and and fines fine spices and fine salt and fine salt with fine seasoned with truffies, seasoned a top of ofthat a on top fat, and and on layer of ofpork another layer next, another herbes; next, herbes; pork faL, mushand mushabove, aod g'rat seasoned as indic.ated indicated above, seasoned as layer of of foie foie gras layer building up Continue building parsley, and onions. Continue spring onions. and spring rooms, parsley, rooms, are used. ingredients are the ingredients all the until all pdt6 in same order order unlil in the the same the pt the leave to to pork fat. and leave Cook and fat. Cook of pork slices of with slices the whole whole with Cover the Coyer 1767.) portatif de fu culsne, Paris, 1767.) (Dictionnaire portatif cuisine, Paris, cool.' (Dictionnaire cool.' pArs DE gras. PT GRAS TRUFF rnurrr on FOIE FoIE GRAS foie gras. of foie Tmfred p0t6 of Truffied pork and (2| lb.) and foie gras, 1 lb.) pork kg. (2~ I kg. frrm foies Ingredients. 2 firm foie foies gras, Ingredients. (2+ lb.) pastry (14 oz.) lb.) pastry I kg. kg. (2 trufres, 1 oz.) Iruffles, gras forcemeal, 400 g. (14 forcemeat, 400 gras pepper, spices. spices, salt, pepper, leaf, thyme, thyme, salt, pork fat, fat, bay leaf, dough, park dough, Madeira. brandy, Madeira. brandy, peeled and gras with and truffies, peeled with trumes, the foie Stud the Method. Slud foie gras Method. salt with Spiced Spiced salt left whole. whole. Season Season with qnartered or, if small, small, left or, if in steep in Leave to to steep (see SALT) with brandy. brandy. Leave and sprinkle with SALT) and hours. 2 hours. for 2 and Madeira for brandy and brandy with the (a hinged mould) round or or oval oval mou hinged round pdti mould mould (a Linea Line a pt Id) wi th the made be made This must must be (made with lard). This or lard). butter or pastry dough with butter dough (made for aa long long time. time. left to to stand stand for and left in advance and of the the with part of of the sides of the pastry with and sides bottom and Line the the botlom Line Cover gras, pressed close close together. Coyer in the the foie Put in stuffing. Put foie gras, stuffing. slice of of of this this lay aa slice top of stuffing. On On top layer of of sluffing. a domed domed layer with a with Cover of thyme. thyme' Caver small sprig of leaf, and and aa small pork fat, half aa bay bay leaf, fat, half Decorate dough and and seal the edges. Decora pdti with layer of of dough with aa layer the pt te pastrywith pastrypastry motifs motifs shaped with decorative pastry top with with decorative the top the

ll

382 382

FOIE GRAS FOIE GRAS

(and other pottdfoie grar other potted It It is advisable advisable to prepare prepare pottedJoie gras (and potted gras) at 24 hours preparations preparations containing containing foie Joie gras) at least least 24 hours before before using. using. potted portions, potted To make it it easier to to serve in in individual individual portions, rectangular in rectangular kitchens in in restaurant is made made in restaurant kitchens Joie gras is foie gras dishes. earthenware, porcelain, porcelain, or metal dishes. perigourdine. fagon prigourdine. gras with la faon trufres la with truffles Potted Potted foie foie gras

pfnlcounpINE r,lqou PRIGOURDINE A LA FAON TRUFFf Cn,C,S TRUFF TERRINE DE TERRINE DE FOIE FOIE GRAS

rl

Truffled pdt6 pt de foie gras (Presse Moderne) Truffied

Ieaves, crescents, etc.) or strips of plaited cutters (lozenges, leaves, pieces of of dough shaped 3 or or 4 round pieces In the middle middle put 3 dough. In middle of in the the middle a fluted ftuted pastry-cutter. pastry-cutter. Make a hole in a hole with a these for the escape escape of of steam during during baking. Brush with egg. Bake in a fairly hot oven. luke-warm pour into it either half-melted Cool. When it is luke-warm used at at is to be used some time, or if it is lard, if it is to be kept for sorne once, Madeira-flavoured Madeira-ftavoured jelly. 12 hours before de foie Joie gras must be Pt de at least least 12 made at be made Pdti using. The mould can be lined with a a stuffing made entirely using. of Joie gras Joie gras stuffing. gras instead andpie instead of with pork and of foie pArls (oH recipe). PErIrs PTs SmaU trufHed pts recipe). PETITS pfltes of foie foie gras (old Small trufred gras and with DE 'Take Joies stud with afr stud Atrx TRUFFES TRUFFES --'Take DE FOIE FoIE GRAS cRAs AUX foies gras Joie gras stuffing especially truffles. Make a for the the purpose. especially for afoie truffies. Prepare pdti moulds. Put stuffing at at the Put the stuffing Prepare little individual pt bottom, a side. gres on each side. at each a truffle truffie at on top and a a piece of of Joie foie gras put them Cover with them and put egg, and with egg, Finish, brush with stuffing. Finish, with stuffing. pour a in a them, pour uncover them, are ready, ready, uncover they are oven. When When they in the the oven. gascon, (Iz Cuisinier !ittle Cuisinier gascon, and serve.' serye.' (Le them and little essence into them essence into Amsterdam, 1747 .) Amsterdam, 1747.) AUx Potted foie GRAS AUX DE FOIE FoIE GRAS gras with trufres TERRINE TERRINE DE foie gras with truffles. (the TRUFFES halves (the Trim the the halves tn half. half. Trim large Joie a large TRUFFEs foie gras in - Cut a trimmings them and stud stud them make the the forcemeat), forcemeat), and to make used to trimmings are are used th Spiced with large gras wi with Spiced pieces of Season the the joie truffie. Season large pieces of truffle. foie gras salt I or or 2 for 1 2 (see SALT). and steep steep for over it it and brandy over Pour brandy salt (see SALT). Pour hours in seasoning. in this seasoning. Line pork fat. fat. Put in Put in of pork with thin thin slices slices of dish with Line an an ovenware ovenware dish (13 oz.) it g. (13 oz.) with 375 375 g. made with a forcemeat forcemeat made layer of of a fairly thin thin layer it a a fairly lean the pork fat, of the fat, the (l lb.) the trimmings trimmings of fresh pork g. (1 pork, 450 lb.) fresh 450 g. lean pork, joie (5 oz.) or chopped g. (5 chopped oz.) diced diced or gras 150 g. oz.), 150 about 200 2N g. Q oz.), e. (7 foie gras - about trufHes (3 tablespoons, cup) scant if cup) dl. (3 tablespoons, scant with t flavoured with truffies ftavoured * dl. Madeira spiced 4 teaspoons teaspoons spiced seasoned with with 4 and seasoned or brandy Madeira or brandy and Joie gras salt. forcemeat. Cover Cover gras on on top top of of this this forcemeat. half of of the the/oie salt. Put Put half with the other other forcemeat. Put Put the trufled forcemeat. of the the truffled layer of with another another layer half of remainder of gras on with the the remainder cover with on top top and and cover half of of the the Joie foie gras the all the the ingredients. ingredients. to ftatten flatten ail down weil well to the forcemeat. forcemeat. Press Press down If aa Cover put ha half pork fat. of this this put On top top of fat. On of pork slice of with a a thin thin slice Cover with bay and seal seal the dish dish and of thyme. thyme. Cover Cover the sprig of leaf and and a a small small sprig bay leaf te. Cook with standing in in aa paste. oven, standing in the the oven, Cook in with ftour-and-water flour-and-water pas pan I hour, hour, accordaccordto 1 for 45 45 minutes minutes to pan half-fuU hot water, water, for half-full of of hot ing dish. the size size of of the the dish. ing to to the Leave day. following day. until the the following light weight weight until a light Leave to to cool cool under under a Next (this can the dish dish done if if the more easily easily done can be be more out (this it out Next day, day, tum turn it is Remove the the hot water). water). Remove in hot seconds in few seconds for aa few is first first stood stood for slices gras gras. Dry theJoie potted joie Dry the the potted of fat fat covering covering the slices of foie gras foie gras. with the forcemeat forcemeat to make make the pressing aa little little so so as as to cloth, pressing with aa cloth, quite the dish dish of the the bottom bottom of it, line line the quite firm. replacing it, firm. Before Before replacing with (which was goose fat was exuded exuded fat(which lard mixed mixed with with goose layer of of lard with a a layer in over cold, over fat, almost almost cold, mixture of of fat, similar mixture in cooking). cooking). Pour Pour aa similar theJoie l0 least10 for at atleast gras. Leave refrigerator for the refrigerator in the to chili chill in Leave to the foie gras. hours. dish. cooking dish. in the the cooking hours. Serve Serve as as it it is is in 383 383

gras ovemight Drain in cold cold water. water. Drain overnight in a large, Soak a large, firm Joie foie gras cloth. and dry in a clotho gras, and and lobes of of the the Joie in the lobes Make several incisions in foie gras, spices. and spices. with salt salt and Season with truffie. Season a piece of trufHe. put into each a pork fat. fat. thin slices of fresh pork Line a terrine completely with thin with a a press weil Cover with down. Cover gras into well down. into it it and and press the Joie Put the Put foie gras pork, chopped and together and chopped together fat pork, lean and and fat layer of of lean thin layer thin on top top of of and on a few few tablespoons tablespoons brandy, and seasoned. Pour on a seasoned. goose fat. fat. melted goose pour a luke-warm melted a little luke-warm the whole mixture pour flour-and-water edges with ftour-and-water the terrine, and seal the edges Cover the cook in in a a pan half-full hot water water and and cook half-full of of hot in a a pan Place in paste. Place grcs under light a light under a hour. Leave Leave the the Joie I hour. hot oven for about about 1 oven for hot foie gras goose of goose a few few tablespoons tablespoons of on a cold. Pour on until quite cold. weight until lard. Cover melted lard. Cover a little little melted set, add add a is quite set, fat, and when this is gummed paper. paper. Keep Keep in in a a of gummed with a a strip strip of terrine. Seal Seal with the terrine. the dry place. cool, dry goose fat. DE FOIE FolE gras in fat. CONSERVE coxsrnvr DE in goose potted foie foie gras Preserved potted gras with with the Joie seasOn the EN TERRINE TERRINE -- Season AU NATUREL NATUREL EN GRAS AU GRAS foie gras poach hours. Dry Dry and and poach for a few hours. a few in brandy brandy for spiced salt. salt. Steep Steep in spiced just large put in large in a a terrine terrine just goose fat. and put fat. Drain, Drain, and in clarified clarified goose in quite goose fat. Leave until until quite fat. Leave with goose hold it. it. Cover Cover with to hold enough to enough leave to to lard and and leave layer of of melted melted lard thin layer over it it a a thin cold. Pour Pour over cold. with a of a strip strip of the edges edges with and seal seal the cool. Cover Cover the the terrine, terrine, and cool. paper. gummed paper. gummed place, joie dry, cool cool place, in a a dry, kept in this way way and and kept in this Prepared in Prepared foie gras will long time. time. keep for for a a very very long wrll keep gras gras -- See foie gras See QUENELLE. of foie Quenelles QUENELLE. Quenelles of a layer layer of of gras rissoles. DE FOIE FoIE GRAS cRAs -- Cut Cut a RIssoLEs DE rissoles. RISSOLES Foie gras Foie (see DOUGH) shapes with with a a pastry dough into small small shapes DOUGH) into Flaky pastry dough (see Flaky put 1 one put I tabletablepastry-cutter. In middle of of each each one In the the middle fluted pastry-cutter. ftuted grar with added, truffies added, with diced diced trufHes of joie spoon salpicon salpicon of spoon fob gras a little little brandy. brandy. with a and ftavoured flavoured with seasoned and seasoned sealing the the edges. edges. pastry into carefully sealing into scrolls, scrolls, carefully Roll the the pastry RoU parsley. Serve sauce with Prigueux Pdrigueux sauce Serve with fried parsley. Gamish Garnish with with fried (see SAUCE). (see SAUCE). jelly. COQUILLES DB FOIE FoIE GRAS cRAs A LA LA gras sbell~ coqutI,r,Es DE ir jelly. Foie Foie gras shelb in gras, potted Joie shells potted serving in in shells A method method of of serving GELE cnI-ie -- A foie gras, with aa shellshellThe shells shells are are cut cut out out with fat. The cooked cooked in in its its own own fat. To instead. To be used used instead. can be tablespoon can shaped scoop or or aa tablespoon shaped scoop gran from spoon dip the the scoop scoopor or spoon prevent the from sticking, sticking, dip prevent the Joie foie gras jelly. chopped jelly. Decorate with with chopped cutting. Decorate in hot water water before before cutting. in hot Rub through through aa FoIE GRAS cRAs- - Rub gns souffl. DE FOIE Foie sourprf DE Foie gras soufl6. SOUFFL gras raw joie g.(ll trimmed raw oz.) carefully carefully trimmed (11 oz.) fine fine sieve sieve 300 300 g. foie gras whites. Put Put pounded in mortar with with 33egg egg whites. in aamortar which which has has been been pounded about ice, incorporating incorporating about work on onice, the bowl and andwork the mixture mixture in in aa bowl little. Add Add 33 (+ pint, little by by little. pint, li fresh cream cream little 3 l| cups) thick fresh 3 dl. dl. (t cups) thick dish souffi6 dish Fill aa buttered buttered souffl or whites. Fil! whisked egg egg whites. 4 stifHy or 4 stifry whisked for 30 30to to pan ofwater, and cook cook for with of water, and stand in inaapan with the the mixture, mixture, stand 35 35 minutes. minutes. (seeSAUCE) SAUCE) sauce (see Serve Madeira sauce sauce,Madeira with Prigueux Pirigueux sauce, Serve with (see ESSENCE). or ESSENCE). or with with TruJfleessence Trffie essence (see pur6eof ofcooked cooked withpure Foie grassouJfl bemade madewith canalso also be souffii can Foic gras Joie gras. foie gras. gras,steep steepin in Foie firm Joie grasSouvarov Season aafirm Souvarov-- Season Foie gras foie gras, oveninan anovenbrandy, hot butter. Put itit in very hot butter. Put in very brownin and brown brandy, and little quarteredtrufHes. Pouron onaa!ittle proof truffies. Pour proof dish large quartered with large dish with essence Demi-glace (se SAUCE) withTruJfle Trufie essence mixedwith SAUCE) mixed sauce(see Demi-glace sauce stripof of ver the (see with aastrip (see ESSENCE). seal with andseal dish and thedish Cover ESSENCE).Co paste. minutesaccordaccordfor40 40to to50 50minutes ovenfor paste. Cook moderateoven inaamoderate Cook in dish. ing gras.Serve cooking dish. inthe thecooking Servein sizeof ofthe thefoie ing to to the thesize foie gras.

FOLLE.BLANCHE FOLLE-BLANCHE
gras tart Foie gras tart :i l'ancienne. I'ancienne. TOUR TouRTts DE FOIE ForE GRAS cnls A Foie lE DE Roll out out aa layer paste layer of (see of Fine Fine lining lining pas - Roll le (see DOUGH) and and eut cut it it in in aa round round shape. shape.Coyer Cover the the middle middle DOUGH) with aa layer layer of (see FORCEMEA of Mousseline Mousseline forcemeat FORCEMEAT) forcemeat (see with T) gras pure mixd with (s*PURED with aa little little Foie Foie gras purie (see and chopped chopped mixed PURE) and trufres, leaving leaving aa border (l* inches). border of of 3 3 to to 4 acm. crn. (11 inches). trumes, Top with with thick thick slices slices of of raw raw truffle. trufre. Coyer Cover with with aa thin thin Top layer of of the the stuffing, stuffing, and and finally, finally, with with aa !id lid of of rolled-out rolled-out layer pastry. SeaJ Seal the the edges. edges. Makc Make a pastry and hole a ho in the the pastry and decorate decorate pastry. le in pastry motifs, with pastry motifs, or or score score with with shallow shallow criss-cross criss-cross lines. lines. with Brush with with egg, egg, and and bake bake in in the the oyen oven for for 45 45 to to 50 minutes. 50 minutes. Brush When the the tart pour in tart is is ready, ready, pour in through through the hole the ho in the the When le in middle, a few tablespoons a few tablespoons concentrated concentrated Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce middJe, (see SAUCE) SAUCE) f1avoured flavoured with (soe ESSENCE). withTrffie essence (see ESSENCE). (sec TruJ/fe essence This tart tart can can also also be made with pastry (see (se DOUGH). with Flaky Flaky pastry be made DOUGH). This (colo. TOURTE gras tart Foie gras tart with with truffles trufles (cold). rouRTE DE DE FOIE ForE GRAS GRAs AUX Ar.rx Foie TRUFFES -- Using Fine lining paste (see (s@ DOUGH) Using Fine lining paste DOUGH) make make the the TRUFFES gros tarI tart as as indicated indicatod for for Foie Foie gras tart it l'ancienne. I'ancienne. When When il it is is tart pour in (through the cold, pour it (through into the hole hole in in the the centre) centre) a few a few cold, to it jelly. tablespoons Madeira-flavoured Madeira-flavoured jelly. tablespoons gras in goose fat. Tinnd foie foie gras in goose fat. CONSERVE coNssnvE DE DE FOIE ForE GRAS GRAS AU AU Tin.ned NATUREL -- Put gras, seasoned Put very very firmfoies fitmfoies gras, seasonod and and steeped steeped for for NATIJREL 2 hours hours in in brandy, brandy, into into oval oval tins, tins, adding goose fat. adding a little goose a little fat. 2 Seal. Stand Stand them them in in water water and and boil boil steadily steadily for for H hours for l| hours for Seal. (2 lb.), tins weighing weighing 1 I kg. kg. (2 lb.), and and 1 I hour hour for for tins tins weighing weighing tins (l lb.). 500 g. e. (J 500 lb.). Drain, leave leave to to cool, cool, dry dry thoroughly, thoroughly, and and keep in a a cool, cool, Drain, keep in dry place. dry place. gras in (hot). FOIE Trufled foie foie gras in Madeira Madeira (hot). rom GRAS cn.ls TRUFF rnurrn AU lu Truffled gras with uloinn Stud a a foie gras with trumes truffies and leave to to steep and leave steep in in - Stud MADRE gras in brandy. Wrap Ihe the foie gras piece of pork caul in a a piece of pork or th thin caul or brandy. Wrap in pork fat, slices of of pork fat, and and put it in a small small braising dish lined lined slices put it in a braising dish with skin and and sliced sliced on onions and carrots, carrots, which which with fresh fresh pork pork skin ions and have in butter. butter. Coyer, Cover, and simmer for for 7 7 to 8 have been been tossed tossed in and simmer to 8 minutes. (scant f with 2l dl. (seant cup) minutes. Moisten Moisten with 2~ dl. ~ pint, pint, generous generous cup) Madeira. several minutes. (| pint, dl. G Madeira. Simmer Simmer for for several minutes. Add Add 3 3 dl. pint, lf H cups) cups) concentrated concentrated brown brown veal veal stock. stock. Cook Cook in in the the oven oyen for for 45 45 minutes. minutes. Drain Drain and and unwrap unwrap the the foie gras. gras. Strain, Strain, skim skim all ail fat fat off off the over thefoie the stoclg stock, and and pour pour over the foie gras. gras. Trufled Truffled foie foie gras gras in in Madeira Madeira (colo. (told). ForE FOIE cRAs GRAS rnurrs TRUfF lu At! rrrrotnr MADRE - Proceed Proceed as as for for Trffied TruJ/fed foie foie gras gras in in Madeira Madeira (hot). (hot). When When cooked, cooked, drain, drain, unwrap unwrap the the liver, liver, and and put put it il in in a a terrine terrine just just large large enough enough to to hold hold it. il. Strain Strain the the cooking cooking stock stock and and pour over thefoie pour it it over the foie gras.Leave gras. Leave to to cool cool for for 12 12 hours. hours. Skim Skim off off the the layer layer of of fat fat which which will will have have formed, formed, and and serve serve in in the the terrine. terrine. gras When Truffied in Madeira When TruJ/fed foie foie gras ln Madeira is is to to be be served served cold, cold, the the veal veal stock stock must must be be of of a a kind kind that that will wiU readily readily set set into into a a jelly. jelly. Trufred Truffled foie foie gras gras in in port port (cold). (cold). ForE FOIE GRAs GRAS rnurrn TRUfF lu AU poRTo foie gras PORTO - Proceed Proceed as as for for Truffied TruJ/fedfoie gras in in Madeira Madeira (cold), (cohi), jelly using using jeJly flavoured flavoured with with port. port. Even Even when when ruby ruby port port is is used, used, the the jelly jelly should should be be amber-coloured. amber-coloured.
L'ANcIENNE L'ANCIENNE

generally covered It is is generally jelly covered with with foil foil and and masked masked with Il with aa jelly or savoury savoury butter, butter, depending depending upon upon the the dish. dish. or FONDS -- French (See STOCKS, French term term for for stock. stock. (See STOCKS, FU FONDS MET.) FUMET.)

FONDS DE DE PTISSERIE PATISSERIBTerm for for various various sweet pastry sweet pastry FONDS - Tcrm bases used pAfisserie. used in in French French ptisserie. bases FONDLIE - This This narne name applies applies to to aa variety variety of FONDUE of different different dishes. Il can can be be a cheese cheese sauce, sauce, originally originally from from dishes. Switzerland, the the recipe recipe for for which which follows follows under under Cheese Cheese Switzerland, L fondue fon&re 1. It is is also also used used for for a a dish dish of of scrambled scrambled eggs eggs with with cheese, cheese, It an original original recipe recipe of of which which can can be found in in Brillat-Savarin's Brillat-Savarin's be found an go'frt. (Sec (Se Cheese Physiologie du fu got. Cheese fondue II.) Physiologie fondue Il.) preparations are Certain vegetable vegetable preparations called fondue. are also also caUed Certain fondue. The vegetables vegetables are are cooked cooked for for a a very very long long lime time in in butter, The butter, lard, or or oil oil until until they pulp, i.e. they are are reduced reduced to to pulp, i.e. become lard, Different vegetable vegetable fondues can be be used used as conas confondues. fondues. Different fondues can great many stituent elements elements in in a a great many dishes. dishes. stituent Burgundy fondue. fondue. FONDUE FoNDTJE BOuRGUIGNONNE BouRcuIcNoNNE - This This conconBurgundy temporary dish dish has has nothing nothing 10 to do do with with Burgundy; Burgundy; it it is is a a temporary Swiss creation. creation. A A mixture of of butter and placed in and oil oil is is placed in a Swiss a dish which which is is set set over over ilS its own own individual heater heater on on fondue dish the table. Cubes of steak steak are served separately. are served separately. With the the aid aid the table. person plunges plunges a ofa fork, each each person steak cube into the a steak of a fondue fork., and oil mixture, cooking it it to to his tas taste, smoking butter and te, then th en it into one of a a variety of sauces before eating il. dips it it. fondue. FoNDUE DE CAROTTES cARorrEs - Gently Gently cook cook very Carrot fondue. FONDUE DE finely sljced sliced or shredded shredded carroIS carrots in in butter, in in a covered pan. pinch of sugar. with salt salt and a pinch Season with Cook the carrots untiJ until they are reduced reduced to a pulp. Cook the carrots they are to a pulp. To avoid them few drops drops of add a a few of avoid them being being fried fried in in the the butter butter add water or bouillon from time to to time. fondue. FoNDUE cELERT Cook sliced or diced diced Celery fondue. FONDUE DE DE CLERI - Cook celery or celeriac celeriac gently in butter, adding a few drops water watcr or bouillon. Season. Cook until the moisture moisture has completely completely evaporated. Cheese Cheese fondue fondue I. roNorie FONDUE DE FRoMAGE FROMAGE * - This dish dish originated in the French-speaking French-speaking part part of of Switzerland. It lt consists consists of of gratod grated cheese cheese melted melted in white white wine, seasoned seasoned with pepper, pepper, and flavoured flavoured with with a little little kirsch. kirsch. The contains The Valais Valais fondue fondue con tains no no butter, no no eggs, no no flour or starch of of any kind, and no chemical products products in its ilS original form. foml. It Il is is prepared prepared in in a small sma]] casserole and served on on a a hot plate plate or trivet. trivet. Each Each person person round round the table table dips dips a piece pie of bread bread spiked on the the end of of his his fork fork into into the the dish. dish. The Freiburg) fondue The Fribourg Fribourg ((Freiburg) fondue is is prepared prepared with with Vacherin Vacherin cheese, cheese, which which is is a a soft cheese cheese made made in in the the Savoy Savoy from from cows' milk. milk. A A century century ago, ago, M. M. Victor Victor Tissot Tissot gave gave Edmond Edmond Richardin Richardin the the genuine genuine recipe recipe for for thrs Ihisfondue with Vacherin. Vacherin. fondue with 'Take 'Take I 1 kgpi kg (2i lb.) lb.) fresh fresh white whil<: Vacherin Vacherin cheese; cheese; cut eut it it into into small small cubes cubes and and place place these these in in an an earthenware earthenware or or enamelled enamelled iron iron pot. pot. Heat Heat over over a a low low flame, flame, stirring stirring frequently frequently with with a a fork fork made made of of new new wood. wood. Try Try not not to to be be distracted distracted by by the the delicious delicious aroma aroma of of the the melting me1ting cheese. cheese. When When the the cheese cheesc begins begins to to simmer simmer and and is is ropy ropy and and cream-like cream-like in in consistency, consistency, it it is is ready ready to to eat. eal. Place Place it it in in the the centre centre of of the the table. table. 'Connoisseurs 'Connoisseurs have have small small cubes cubes of of fresh fresh bread brcad ready ready on on their their plate plate in in advance. advance. These These are are speared speared with wilh a a fork, fork, then Ihcn plunged plunged and and turnod turned in in the the fondue. fondue. Once Once a a forkful forkful is is well weil coated coated with with the the smoking smoking cream, cream, it it is is removed removed and and eaten, eaten, washed washed down down with with white white wine. wine. 'In 'ln this this way way the the fondue fondue is is kept kept nicely nicely warm warm and and there there is is none none ofthe of the bother bother oftransferring of transferring it it from from one one receptacle receptacle to to another. another. '1 '1 kg. kg. (2| (2i lb.) lb.) Vacherin Vacherin cheese cheese is is sufficient sufficient to to make make ample ample

It

which which grows grows in in the the Charentes Charentes region. region. The The wine wine made made from from these these grapes grapes is is of of rather rather poor poor quality, quality, but but it it is is used used in in the the distillation distillation of ofbrandy. brandy. FONDANT FONDAl'I'T - See See ICING. ICING.

FOLLE-BLANCIiEFOLLE-BLANCHE - Name Name of ofa a vine vine bearing bearing white white grapes, grapes,

FONDANTS FONDANTS (Croquettes) (Croquettes) - See See HORS-D'(EUVRE. HORS-D'UVRE, ,F/or Hot hors-d'euvre. hors-d'uvre.

FOhID-DF-PLAT FOND-DE-PLAT- French French term Lerm for for an an oval oval or or round round piece piece of ofwood wood which which is is placed placed on on the the bottom bottom of ofa a plate plate to to form fODn a a raised raised base base for for cold cold dishes. dishes.
384 384

FONDUE
you. 'Take a piece of of good Gruyre Gruydre weighing a third and butter a sixth of the weight of the eggs. weighing a 'Break the eggs and beat them weil well in a casserole. Add the butter and the grated cheese. 'Put the casserole on a a hot stove stove and and stir with a a wooden spoon until mixture has has suitably suitably thickened spoon until the the mixture thickened and and is any salt, salt, depending on smooth. Add a a very little or hardly any age of the cheese. Add a a good portion of pepper, which the age is one of the the distinguishing distinguishing characteristics of this this ancient is one dish. Serve on a a lightly heated dish.' Chervil tuber fondue. FoNDUE fuber fondue. DE CERFEUIL Chervil FONDUE DE cERFEUTL TUBREUX rusfnBux same as Celery fondue. Prepared in the sa me way as fondue. FoNDUE D'ENDIVES fondue. FONDUE D'ENDIVES Cook finely Chicory fondue. Cook finely minced chicory gently in butter in a a covered pan. Season. chicory Season. Tlis fon&te as a a garnish for egg egg and fish dishes fondue is is served as This well as cuts cuts of meat and poultry, and and vegetable vegetable dishes. as weil Fennel tuber tuber fondue. fondue. FONDUE FoNDUE DE FENoUIL TUBREUX Fennel DE FENO~ rus6neux Prepared and used in the same way as fondue. and used as Celery fondue. poIREAUx - Shred or cut into fine FoNDUE DE POIREAUX Leek fondue. FONDUE and cook gently in butter until slices the white part of leeks and Season. very soft. Season. Used in in sauces, sauces, stuffings, stuffings, and and stews, or as as a a garnish for Used fistr, meat, poultry, and vegetables. eggs, fish, FoNDUE AUX AUx CHAMPIGNONS cHAMprcNoNsMushroom fondue. FONDUE - Mince the mushrooms, bind with cream, and and brown in in the oven. Oniqr fondue. FONDUE FoNDUE D'oIGNoNs Cook finely chopped Onion D'OIGNONS - Cook gently in pan without covered pan in butter in a a covered without allowing onions gently prevent the them to to col colour. To prevent the on them our. To ions becoming becoming fried, onions moisten them from from time to time with water or stock. Season. Season. fondue. FoNDUE D'oSEILLE in the same Sorrel fondue. FONDUE D'OSEILLE - Prepared in Sorrel chiffonnade chffinnade (see CHIFFONNADE). CHIFFONNADE). way as SO/Tel

Cheese fondue

a very nourishing nourishing dish.' fondue for four persons. It is a fondue Neuchdtel fondue The Neuchtel fondue has has Gruyre Gruydre cheese as a basis. For as a and fresh cheese are mixed. this dish stale and fondue II tr (Brillat-Savarin). FoNDLTE AU AU FROMAGE FRoMAGE Cheese Cheese fondue @rittat-Savarin). FONDUE gives to BRILLAT-SAvARIN This is name BRILLAT-SAVARIN me the is the the na the author gives to a - This dish of scrambled eggs with cheese in in his his book Physiologie Physiologie dish a translationof translation of the original recipe. du go,At. got. The following is a 'Recipe of fondue M. TroUet's Trollet's papers. as found found in in M. fondue as papers. He 'Recipe was bailiff bailiff of Mondon in the Canton of Berne. you want which you use. This 'Weigh the the number of eggs which to use. want to number depends on how many people are going to eat with

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Equipment for Swiss fondue (Nicolas) Equipment

385

FONTAINEBLEAU FO NT AINE BLEA U

It is is used used in in thick thick and and thin garnish for thin soups, soups, and as a and as for eggs, a garnish ft eggs, small cuts poultry. cuts of of meat, meat, and and poullry. small pepper fondue. Sweet pepper fondue. FONDUE FoNDrrE DE DE PIMENTS rMENTS DOUX Doux -- Cook Sweet Cook finely chopped peppers gently gently in chopped sweet sweet peppers in butter butter or or oil oil until until soft. Season. soft. in hot hot and and cold cold sauces, Use in sauces, in in dit'l'erent different kinds kinds of of stuffings, stuffings, Use with soft soft eggs, eggs, in in omelettes, omelettes, with with bot hot or or cold cold fish, fish, with wth with shellfish, meat, meat, poultry, and and vegelables. vegetables. shellfish, Tomato fondue. FONDUE FoNDUE DE DE TOMA ToMATES Cook 1 I chopped chopped Tomato TES .- Cook onion in in butter butter or or in in a a butter butter and and oil oil mixture. mixture. When onlon When the the onions begin peeled, seeded, begin to to colour, colour, add add 6 6 peeled, seeded, and and chopped chopped onions tomatoes. Season pepper. Add Season with with salt salt and grated clove and pepper. Add 1 I grated clove lomatoes. garlic. Cook of garlic. Cook gently \lnlil until the the liquid liquid of of the the tomatoes tomatoes has of almost disappeared. Add Add t tablespoon chopped chopped parsley. almost + tablespoon Tomato fondue is is used for many many dishes, used for dishes, mainly mainly for for those Tomato provengale, d la la provenale, portugaise, or d la la portugaise, or d la la madrilne. madrildne.It is used usod as It is as garnish for a garnish for eggs, eggs, and and fOf for vegetables such such as as mushrooms, a small vegetable marrows, aubergines, artichoke artichoke hearts, hearts, etc. smaU etc. oil, and and chilled, chilled, tomato fondue s is onen often used When made with oil, preparation of in the the preparation of cold cold hors-d'uvre. hors-d'euvre. in
panada should The The panada should not not be be added added to to the the forecemeat forecemeat or or stuffing stuffing until until it it is is completely completely cold. cold. To To speed speed up up the the cooJing cooling process, spread process, spread ouI out the the forcemeal forcemeat on on a a buttered buttered dish. dish. Coyer Cover prevent a with with buttered buttered paper ta to prevenl a crus! crust forming forming through preparation of various panadas exposure exposure to to the the air. For For the the preparation ofvarious see see PANADA. PANADA.

FONTAINEBLEAU-- Town Town weil well known in thegastronomic the gastronomic FONTAINEBLEAU because of ilS grapes, whch its famous grapes, which are are found found in world because in and and (see GRAPES), near Thomery Thomery (see GRAPES), and and also also because because of its near its suc.succream cheese, cheese, which which is is eaten eaten as as a dessert. culent cream
See CHEESE. FONTINA - See

PROCESSOR powerful time-saving appliance FOOD PROCE.."SOR FOOD - A powerful operated by e1eclricity electricity and equipped with a variety of cutting operated gadgets for pur6eing, emulsifying, chopping, slicing, shredding, and and whipping. Originated in France under ding, under the trade name of of Cuisinart, simlar processors are similar food food processors name are now manufactured in England, Germany, and Ihe the United States. pur6e. Fruit of aimosi FOOL almost any variety is is cooked FOOL - Fruit pure. with very little and passed through a fine sieve. a fine sieve. The licHe water warer and passed through with pulp is and kept cool is sugared and Whipped - on ice if possible. Whipped to l, 1, mixed cream is added to the pulp in the proportion of 2 [0 and served served in sherbet glasses. gently and (Wine) FORCE FORCE (Wine) French term lerm for incompletely incomplelely fermented fermeOled - French wine to develop a in small reinforced reinforced casks 10 'sparkle' wine kept in a .sparkle, just as Champagne wine develops develops it in bottles. boules. just as

FORCEMEATS FORCEMEATS or MADE WITH OT STUFFINGS STUFFINGS MADE BEEF, WITH BEEF, VEAL, VEAL, PORK, AND POULTRY. FARcES DE DE PORK, GAME, GAME, AND POULTRY. FARCES CHAIR CHAIR DE DE VEAU, VEAU, DE DE PORC, PORC, DE DE GlBlER, GIBIER, DE DE VOLAILLE VOLAILLE -_ pouR LES Beet' Beef forcemeat forcemeat for for agnolotti. agnolotti. FARCE FARCE DE DE BOEUF BoEUF POUR LEs g. (18 (18 oz.) AGNOLOTIl AGNoLorrI -- This This forcemeat forcemeat is is made made of of 500 500 g. oz.) beef beef braised in red red wine. wine. braised in When ove the remove When completely completely cooked, cooked, rem the beef, beef, chop, chop, and and (9 oz.) g. (9 add add 10 to il it 250 250 g. oz.) cabbage, cabbage, chopped and and braised, braised, and and 50 (2 oz., g.Q grated Parmesan cheese. Season 50 g. oz., t cup) grated with salt, salt, Season wth I cup) pepper, and and spices. sauce in Strain the the sauce in which which the beef was was braised, braised, and and use use il it for for serving agnolotti. serving with agnololt. Chicken forceneat. FARCE FARCE DE DE VOLAILLEChicken (or other poultry) forcemeat. VoLAILLE (see below) like Veal Veal and pork forcemeat Prepare like below) using using the forcemeat (see (or other following ingredienls: 250 g. ingredients: 250 chicken (or e. (9 Q oz.) chicken poultry meat, pigeon, duck, guinea-fowl), meat, such such as as turkey, turkey, pigeon, (4 oz") (4 oz.) pork. g. (4 g. (4 pork, 450 g. (lIb.) (l lb.) fresh oz.) lean veal, 100 100 g. 100 g. 450 g. 2 eggs, l+ dl. bacon, bacon,2 dl. (+ pint, t cup) brandy and and 5 5 teaspoons J cup) Spiced salr (see SALT). prepared using This forcemeat can can also also be be prepared only the using only the meat of fowl fowl and and fresh fresh bacon. Forccmcat pfltes and galantines, pts potted preparations. preparations. Forcemeat for for galantines, and poUet:!
pouR GALANl1NES, pAr6s, TERR1NES FARCE FARCE 1'00JR. GALANTINES, PTs, TERRINES Inl1r1-"fI./pnl'.L 250 g. veal, 500 (9 oz.) lean (18 oz.) fresh g. (9 Ingredients.250 lean veal, 500 g. (18 fresh tab1espoons Spiced (see SALT), pork fat, 2 eggs, 2 2 tablespoons Spiced salt (see brandy. 1+ dl. (+ pint, J cup) brandy. Me/hod. Dice the veal, veal, pork, and pork fat and pound in n a Method. with the the seasoning and Add the mortar with and brandy. the eggs eggs and brandy. Add mix weIl. well. Rub Ihrough through a fine sieve. Slir Stir until very smooth. FARCE DE GIBlERS - Prepare Prepare like Chicken Game forcemeat. forcemeat. FARcE GIBTERs like Chicken (or other poultry)forcemeat,replacing chicken chickeo by game meat. meal. aoo potted preparations. FARCE Gamc forcemeat for plt6s pts and Game pArEs ET DE GIBIER poun POUR PTS ET TERRTNES TERRINES - Using whatever game is indicated in the the recipe, recipe, proceed proceed as as for for Chicken indicaled in Chickm (or other poultry) poul/TY) forcemeat. forcemeal. To To render render this this stuffing stuffing more more delicate, delicate, the the trimmings of freshfoie iL It ft can a Iso be enriched by the fresh foie gras are added to it. also gratin game game stuffing swjjing (see (see below) be!ow) and addition of d addition and Game fumet (see FUMET). A gratin calves' ulves' Iiver liver forcemeat for borders borders and and hot pfftds. pts. FARcE FARCE A cR,lrnq GRAnN DE DE ForE FOlE DE DE vEAU VEAU poLJR POUR BoRDUREs BORDURES ET pAres PTS

FORCEMEATS FORCE MEATS or STUFFINGS. rlncps FARCES - Forcemeats or stuffings, stuffings, which which are are a a mixture mixture of ingredients ingredienl~ minced minced or chopped chopped and and spiced, spiced, are are among among the the preparations preparations most cooking. They are often from charin cooking. They are often made made from charwidely used used in cuterie, ell/erie, and and are are used used in pdtis, pts, potted pattee! preparations, preparations, galantines, and sluft' or garnish eggs, fish, poultry, poultry, and ballottines, ballottines, to stuff game, game, meat, meal, vegetables, etc. Forcemeats making of of forcemeat farcemeat balls, balls, Forcemeats are are also used in the making borders, mousses, moulds, moulds, etc. Forcemeats Forcemeats or or stuffings sluffings can be be made made with or or without meat, meal, though all al! of of them them derive derive from 5 5 basic forcemeats. forcemeats. These are: l. Pork forcemeat. forcemeal. 2. Yeal Veal and and fat fal forcemeat, forcemeat, known known as as godiveau. godiveau, 3. Fine Fine forcemeat, forcemeat, with with cream. cream. 4. Forcemeat made of special ingredients, with with or or without without made of meat. meal. 5. 5. it gratin gratin forcemeat. forcemeat. Forcemeats various by the the addition of ofvarious Forcemeats are are given given substance substance by panadas panadas (see below). below). Most forcemeats meal, poultry, poultry. or game, are forcemealS made made of meat, bound bound with wilh eggs. Panada Panada for for forcemeats or sfuffings. stuffings. nANADE PANADE - Preparation Preparation made bread, usually usually boiled boiJed in in water, water, made with with various variolls flours or bread, milk, forcemeats. milk, or or stock, and and used used to to bind bind stuffings or forcemeats. Panadas 2 parts Panadas are are added added to to stuffings in in the the proportion proportion of of2 parts basic basc ingredients ingredients to 10 I 1 part part panada.
386 386

Ingredienls. 300 g. g. (ll (lI oz.) trimmed calves' livers, 250 g. Ingredients.300 (9 (9 oz.) fat fat belly belly of pork, pork, 75 75 g. g. (3 (3 oz., oz., 3 cups) CUPS) mushroom mushroom peelings, peelings, 50 e.Q g. (2 oz., I cup) chopped shallots, 150 g. (5 oz., oz." generous generous * -t cup) cUP) butter, butter, 4 teaspoons leaspoons salt, I 1 teaspoon 1",,,~nr'l""In pepper, j~ teaspoon teaspoon ground cloves, cloyes, a a small smaU sprig of thyme, * bay leaf,ll leaf, Ji dl. $ (t pint, pint, 3 cup) white white wine, 3 egg yolks. Method. Method. Brown Brown the the diced diced belly of pork in 50 g. g. (2 oz., n the the butter. Remove the pork from the the pan, pan, and, in i cup) butter. bro'k'T1 very very quickly the the diced calves' calves' liver. liver. Put same butter, brown the diced diced pork pork back back in in the the pan. pan Add Add the the mushroom musbroom peelings peelings the and shallots, sballols, seasoning seasonng and spices. Saut6 Saut the the mixture mixture on a a and of the the very hot hot flame Rame for for 2 2 minutes. minutes. Take the the calves' calves' liver liver out out of very pan. pan. Dilute Dilute the the juices juices with wilh the the white white wine, wine, boil boil down down and and add add to the the liver. liver. Pound Pound in in a mortar, mortar, adding adding the the rest rest of of the Ihe butter buller to aod the tbe egg egg yolks. yolks. Mix Mix well. weil. Rub Rub through Ihrough a a sieve. Mix Mix with with and it is is very very smooth. smooth. a wooden wooden spoon spoon until uotiJ it a The is added added to lo forcemeats forcemeats for pdtds pts and and potted polted The mixture mixlure is products. Il is is also also used used in in the the preparation preparation of of borders borders and and products. It poultry or game game moulds. moulds. Truffie Tmffle peelings peelings may may be be added added to to poultry or

_ CHAVDSCHAUDS

FORCEMEATS FORCE MEATS

this this forcemeat forcemeat and and pounded pounded with with the the calves' calves' liver. liver. A A little little concentrated concentrated Espagnole Espagnole sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SA UeE) can can also also be be
added. added.

gratin gratin forcemeat forcemeat for for canap6s canaps and and croiitons. crotons. re.ncs FARCE A cRATTN GRATIN pouR POUR cANApEs CANAPS ET cno0roNs CROTONS - Heat Heat in ill a pan pan 150 150 g. g.

(5 (5 oz.) oz.) grated grated fresh fresh pork pork fat. fat. When When it it is is very very hot, hot, put put in in I oz.) 300 g. (l (II oz.) trimmed trimmed chicken chicken livers, livers, 15 15 e. g. G (! oz., OZ., 2 2 table300 g. spoons) spoons) chopped shallots, 25 25 g. (l (l oz., oz., I 1 cup) mushroom mushroom

rr

poultry, poultry, boned boned and and trimmed, trimmed, with with all aU gristle gristle and and tendons tendons removed, removed, 400 400 g. g. (14 (14 oz.) oz.) Bread Bread panadn panada (see (see PANADA), PANADA), 4 4 egg It litres litres (2f (21 pints, pints, 3| 3 pints) pints) double double cream, cream, I1 egg whites, whites, l!

Panada Pana da forcemeat forcemeat with wilfl cream cream (fine). (fine). rencr FARCE (nNr) (FINE) A r,l LA eANADE PANADE rr ET A LA cnirraE CRME - Ingredienls. Ingredients. 1 kg. kg. (2+ (2 lb.) lb.) veal veal or or

peelings, peelings, a a sprig of of thyme, thyme, L buy bay leaf. Icaf. Season Season with with salt, salt, pepper, pepper, and and a little spice. spice. Brown the the livers livers quickly over a a hot flame flame to to seal them. [hem. very hot very Leave Leave to to cool. Pound Pound in in a mortar mortar and and rub rub through through a a sieve, sieve, or or reduce reduce to to a a pur6e pure in III an an electric electric blender. blender. Keep Keep in in an earthenware container in in a a cool cool place, place, and and cover cover with buttered buttered paper. paper. Prepared in in this this way, way, the the forcemeat will will keep keep for for several several days. It is spread on the the crottons crotons of of fried bread bread which are used used as salmis as a base base for small roast game birds, or served with salmis and civets. civets. A gratin game game forcemeat. FARcr FARCE A cnern GRATIN DE DE cIBIER GIBIER Proceed Proceed as as for for A gratin gratin calves' ca/ves' liver /iver forcemeal, forcemeal, using using the following ingredients:: following ingredients g. of game, 250 g. 250 g. (9 (9 oz.) oz.) livers livers of of various various types types of game, 100 100 g. (9 oz.) young rabbit meat, 50 g. g. (4 oz.) belly of pork, 250 g. (9 g. (1 (2 oz.) foie gras, gras, 25 25 g. oz., 2 tablespoons) butter, 3 egg (2 oz) foie 0 o2.,2 (se SA Game SAUCE) yolks, sauce (see Espagnole sauce UeE) made made with with Came yolks, Espagnole (see f'UVnT), fumet (see FUMET), seasoning and and spices as as for for A gratin gralin fumet (6 tablespoons, seant! scant 1 cup) .up) dl. (6 calves' forcemeat, I 1 dl. calves' liver forcemeat, Madeira. Madeira. gratin purposes as as A This stuffing stuffing is is used used for for the the same purposes gratin for hot is especially especially used liver forcemeat. forcemeal. lt lt is used for hot pdtds pts calves' calves' /iver and game pies. and currN os gratin poultry forcemeat. r.lncs poultry liver liver forcemeat, FARCE A GRATIN DE A gratin gratin ca/yesO liver calves' /iver for A as for gratin FOIES DE VOLAILLE Proceed as FoIEs DE VoLAILLE - Proeeed quantity of of trirruned trimmed an equal equal quantity substituting an forcemeat, substituting forcemeat, for pdtis used for This is is used livers. This poultry calves' Iivers. livers for for the the calves' poultry Iivers pts preparations. and potted preparations. and MoUssELINE DITE MOUSSELINE A LA rl CREME, cRirrar, DITE FARCE forcemeat. FARCE Mousseline forcemeat. Mousseline poultry, or game, (2+ lb.) or game, veal, poultry, lb.) boned boned veal, Ingredienls. 1 I kg. kg. (2;j- Ingredients. 4 egg egg removed, 4 etc. removed, tendons, etc. with aU all gristle, tendons, trimmed and with trimmed and 3 (2f pints, pints) thick fresh cream, cream, 3 thick fresh pints, }1 3f pints) 1| litres litres (2i whites, li whites, teaspoon white pepper. teaspoons salt, i I teaspoon Season. Add finely in in a a mortar. mortar. Season. Pound the the meat meat finely Method. Pound i'vfethod. pounding weIl. through well. Rub through a time, time, pounding little at at a whites a a Iittle the egg whites Keep it it spoon. Keep a wooden wooden spoon. with a vigorously with sieve. Stir Stir vigorously a a fine fine sieve. cream a hours. Then Then add add the the cream a possible, for for 2 2 hours. cool, on on iee ice if if possible, cool, on iee ice if possible. stirring weIl, well, on little at at a a time, time, stirring little mousselines. mousses and and mousselines. balls, mousses for fine fine forcemeat forcemeat balls, Use Use for p.l,N.c,oE ET AU Er Ali A LA rn PANADE FARCE with butter. butter. FARCE forcemeat witll Panada Pana da forcemeat (2+ lb.) poultry, bOlled boned veal or or pouItry, I kg. kg. (2t lb.) veal BEURRE -- Ingredients. Ingredienls. 1 BEURRE g. gristle and removed, 500 500 g. and tendons tendons removed, all gristle with ail and and trimmed, trimmed, with (18 oz., 4 whole whole eggs, eggs, (18 Ol.) panada, 500 oz.,2f,cups) 500 g. oz.) panada, (18 2* cups) butter, 4 e. (l8 pinch pepper, pinch white pepper, yolks, 2 salt, j teaspoon teaspoon white 2 teaspoons 8 yolks, teaspoons salt, 8 grated nutmeg. nutmeg. grated mortar with with poultry. Pound in a a mortar Pound in veal or or poultry. Method. Diee Dice the the veal Method. panada. put in the panada. in the the mortar mortar and and put Take out out of of the seasoning. Take seasolling. pound vigorously. vigorously. the meat meat and and pound Add butter. butter. Put Put back back the Add yolks, one Rub the the forceforcetime. Rub one al at a a time. the yolks, Add the the eggs eggs and and the Add wooden spoon spoon well with with a a wooden Work weil fine sieve. sieve. Work meat through through a a fine meat in an an may be be made made in This forcemeat forcemeat may very smooth. smooth. This untiI until very blender. electric blender. electric to moulds, and to borders, mou balls, borders, for forcemeat forcemeat balls, It is is used used for 1t Ids, and poultry, etc. stuff poultry, etc. stuff plNlnn (game). FARCE A LA r,c, PANADE FARcE butter (game). with butter forcemeat with Panada forcemeat Panada (crnrrn) -- Proceed above recipe recipe for the the above as for Proceed as Er Ali AU BEURRE BEURRE (GIBIER) ET game. trimmed game. boned and and trimmed using using boned moulds, borders, mou for forcemeat forcemeat balls, balls, borders, This stuffing stuffing is is used used for This Ids, game birds. stuff game birds. and 10 to sluff and

teaspoon teaspoon salt, sail, jt teaspoon teaspoon white white pepper, pepper, pinch pinch grated grated nutmeg. nutmeg. Method. Method. Pound Pound the the meat meat or or poultry poultry with with the the seasoning seasoning and and the the egg egg whites, whites, adding adding a a little little at at a a time. time. Add Add the the panada. panada. Pound Pound vigorously vigorously until until the the ingredients ingredients are are thoroughly thoroughly mixed. mixed. Rub througha through a fine fine sieve. steve. Keep Keep on on ice iee for for I 1 hour. hour. Add, Add, a a little little at a a time, time, a a third third of of the the cream, cream, stirring stirring with with a a wooden wooden spoon. Add the the rest rest of of the the cream, cream, partly partly whipped. whipped. This This forcemeat forcemeat may may be be prepared prepared in in an an electric electric blender blender and and is used used for for fine fine forcemeat forcemeat balls. balls. Forcemeat Forcemeat for for pAt6 pt of of foie foie gras gras or or potted potted foie foie gras. gras. FARCE FARCE poun POUR pAri PT ouTERRINE OUTERRINE DE DE FoIE FOIE GRAS GRAS - Ingredients. Ingredients. 375 375 g. g. (13 (13 oz.) lean pork, pork, 450 450 g. g. (1 (1 lb.) lb.) fresh fresh pork pork fat, fat, 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz.) oz.) gras, 4 4 teaspoons teaspoons Spiced Spiced salt salt (see (sec SALT), SAL Tl, 1 1 dl. dl. fresh foie gras, (6 1 cup) (6 tablespoons, scant scant1 cup) brandy. brandy. Method. Method. Pound Pound the the meats meats finely finely in in a a mortar. mortar. Add Add the the seasoning and seasoning and the the brandy. brandy. Rub Rub through through a a sieve. sieve. pEnIGouRDINE - Make P6rigourdine FARCE PER IGOURDINE Make with with Prigourdine forcemeat. forcemeat. rlnct chopped breadcrumbs breadcmmbs steeped in in clear clear soup soup or or milk, milk, and and chopped or pork chopped ham fresh fresb pork pork or chopped ham or pork fat. fat. Add Add chopped chopped parsley parsley salt, pepper, egg yolks. and garlic garlic and bind with with egg yolks. Season Season with with salt, peppcr, cabbage leaves, spices. Wrap and and spiees. Wrap in in white white cabbage leaves. cabbage, rolled The The stuffed cabbage, rolled into into a a large large ball, baIl, is is wrapped wrapped (U.S. cheesecloth) and braised. cheesecloth) and in muslin (U.s. braised. chicken' stuff pot-roasted is also also used This forcemeat lIsed to to stuff pot-roasted chicken. This forcemeal is are added added to of the The liver liver and blood blood of the chicken chicken are ta it. il. with PoRc DE PORC fine. FARcE Pork forcemeat, Pork forcemeat, fine. FARCE FINE FINE DE Make with - Make as Pork pork fat same way fat in pork and in the the same lean pork and pork way as Pork forcemeat, lean sieve. a sieve. (see below) and rub rub the ordinary (sec ordinary below) and the mixture mixture through through a forcemeat. purposes as as ordinary ordinary pork same purposes for the same It is is used used for Jt pork forcemeat. A SAUCISSESsluclssrs DITE CHAIR FARcE DITE cHAIR ordinary. FARCE Pork forcemea! Pork forcemeat, ordinary. pork pork and and pork lean pork quantities of finely minced of finely Mix equal equal quantities Mix minced Iean (see SAL SALT). sa# (see fat. Season with Spiced salt Season with fat. Tl. etc. vegetables, etc. stuffed vegetablcs, sausages, stu/fed for crpinelles, cripinettes, sausages, Used for Used potted preparatiollS. preparations. pflt6s and and potted for pts forcemeat for Poultry forcemeal Poultry pAr6s ET Ingredients. Br TERRINES TERRINEs PouR PTS voLAILLE POlIR FARcE DE DE VOLAILLE - Ingredients. FARCE (2 lb.) g. (2 lb.) fresh fresh veal, 900 900 g. oz.) veal, g. (li lb.) poultry, poultry, 200 2A0 g. 575 g. 575 (7 oz.) e.Q (see solt (see Spiced salt g. (2 3 tablespoons) tablespoons) Spiced oz., 3 pork fat, 50 g. fat, 3 3 eggs, eggs, 50 Q oz., pork generous cup) (scant I plllt, pint, generous brandy. cup) brandy. 2f dl. dl. (scant SALT), 21 SALT), mortar in a finely in a mortar fat. Pound Pound finely poultry, veal, veal, and and fat. Dice the the poultry. Dice Mix weil. well. the brandy. brandy' Mix eggs and and the Add the the eggs the seasoning. seasoning. Add with the a sieve. sieve. Rub th through Rub rough a poultry. FARCE FARcE roast poultry. poached, braiscd, or roast braised' or for poacbcd, Forcemeat for Forcemeat pocuEES, BRAISES, pouR VOLAILLES This stuffing stuffing is is n6nrs -- This uteIsErs, RTIES vot,Alrrns POCHES, POUR parsley with chopped chopped parsley meat, with sausage meat, made with with sausage usually made usually slowly in in butter butter cookod slowly onion, cooked chopped onion, Sometimes chopped added. Sometimes added. added. are added. soft, and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs are very soft, until very until Dice poultry. FARCE FARcE TRlIFFE rnurr6n - Diee for truffled trufled pooltry. Forcemeat for Forcemeat gras. (9 oz.) g. (9 raw foie pork fat oz.) raw fat and and 250 250 g. lb.) fresh fresh pork I kg. ke. (2i foie gras. 1 Qi lb.) g' to peelings from to from 800 800 g. cleaned peelings the cleaned Add the mortar. Add in a a mortaL Pound in pepper, and and a with salt, salt, pepper, a (11 lb Season with truffies. Season lb to Ztlb.) to 2* I kg. kg. (Il 1 lb.) truffies. take it it is very very smooth, smooth, take mixture is pinch of the mixture spices. When When the of spices. pinch gently over low fla flame. a very very low over a cook gcntly and cook mortar and out of of the the mortar out me. fine sieve. sieve. a fine Rub through through a Rub (18 oz.) Add ta to it it fat. Add g. (18 truffied fal. of this this truffied oz.) of 500 g. melt 500 Slowly melt SIowly as inin(the peelings peelings having been used, used, as having been peeled truffies truffies (the the peeled Ihe quartered if if large large or or pork fat), fat), quartered the pork flavour the to flavour dicated above, above, to dicated powdered thyme, pepper, powdered thyme, salt, pepper, with salt, Season with if smalt small. Seasoll whole if whole Leave to 10 10 minutes. minutes. Leave heat for for 8 8 to a low low heat on a leaf. Poach Poach on and bay bay Ieaf. and quite cold, cold, add add they are are quite When Ihey covered. When cool, covered. to cool, the truffies trufres 10 the mix and mix pork fat. Add a a little little brandy brandy and fat. Add the pork rest of of the to the the rest them to them

(I

thoroughly. thoroughly. A A LA u GRAISSE, curssn, rlncs A GODfVEAU coorveau I. FARCE forcemeat I. Quenelle Qlrenelle forcemeat
387 387

FORCEMEATS FORCEMEATS
LA GLACE cLAcE -- Ingredients. Ingredienls. 1 (2+ lb.) I kg. kg. (2~ lb.) lean lean veal gristle veal wilh with grislle LA g. (18 (18 oz.) and tendons tendons removed, removed, 500 500 g. oz.) well-dried well-dried beef beef suet, suet, and 8 whole whole eggs, eggs, 4 4 teaspoons teaspoons salt, salt, l teaspoon pepper, teaspoon white white pepper, 8 pinch graled grated nulmeg, g. (I~ (lt lb.) nutmeg, 800 800 g. lb.) chopped chopped ice, ice, or or failing failing pinch (l+ pints, pints, li this, 7 7 dl. dl. (I~ pints) iced lj pinls) iced water. water. tbis, Mince the Method. Mince the veal veal and and the the suet suet separately. separately. Add Add the the Melhod. seasoning. Still keeping Ihem Still keeping pound Ihe thern separate, separate, pound the veal veal and and seasoning. the suet. suet. Then Then put put them them together together and pound 10 and pound paste. to a a fine fine pas the te. Add the the eggs, pounding. Rub eggs, one one by by one, one, still still pounding. Rub through through a a Add fine sieve. sieve. Spread Spread the mixture out plate, and the mixture out on on a a plaIe, and leave leave it it on on fine ice tiU till the the next next day. day. ice Pound the the stuffing stuffing once once more more in in the the mortar, mortar, adding adding the the Pound ice, broken broken into pieces and into small small pieees put in gradually. Mix and put in gradually. Mix weIl. well. ice, Test the the foreemeat forcemeat by poaching a by poaehing piece. Add a small small piece. Add a little a little Test iced water water if if il it is is too too firm; firm; a a little little white white of if too of egg egg if too soft. soft. iced This stuffing stuffing is is made made inlo into forcemeat forcemeat balls balls which which are are served served This pies, or invol-au-venf garnish large or pies, or used used to to garnish large cuts cuts ofmeat of meat or or vol-au-vent or in poultry. poultry. II. FAR forcemeat II. rancs A GODIVEAU coorvsA.u A LA ra CRME cnirr,m Quenelle foreemeat Quenelle Ingredimts. 1 I kg. kg. (2;;' lb.) trimmed trimmed noix noix or or loin loin 'of bf veal, veal, 1 I kg. kg. Qi lb.) Ingredients. (2* lb.) lb.) beef beef suet, suet, 4 4 whole yolks, 7 whole eggs, eggs, 3 3 yolks, pinti, 7 dl. dl. (1 ~ pints, (2~ pints) fresh lf pints) fresh cream, cream, 4 4 teaspoons teaspoons salt, pepper, salt, 1 1 teaspoon teaspoon pepper, l! pinch nutmeg. nutmeg. pinch Method. Pound Pound the the chopped chopped veal veal and and suet suet in in a mortar a mortar Melhod. separately, then then mix mix them. them. Add Add the the seasoning, seasoning, the the eggs eggs and and separately, yolks, one one by one, mixing mixing vigorously. vigorously. Rub Rub through through a a fine fine yolks, by one, sieve and and spread spread il it out out weIl well on on a a board. board. Leave Leave on on ice ice until until sieve the next next day. day. the Pound the the sluffing stuffing ouce once more more in in the the mortar, mortar, adding adding the the Pound cream a a [itUe little at at a a time. time. cream Test the as indicated in the the preceding recipe, Test the forcemeat forccrneat as indicated in preeeding recipe, adjusting the the consislency consistenry if if necessary. This forcemeat is adjusting necessary. This forcemeat is used in same way way as as Quenelle Quenelle forcemeat used in the the same forcemeal I. l. forcemeat balls. A GODIVEAU coorwau These balls Quenelle forcemeat Quenelle balls, runcr FAR balls - These can be a forcing-bag, are usually can be piped piped through through a forcing-bag, but but they they are usually rolled by and poached salt water. rolled by hand hand and poached in in salt water. They can also They can also be be poached poached dry, dry, as as follows: follows: Pipe onto buttered Pipe the the forcemeat forcemeat through through a a forcing-bag forcing-bag onlo buttered paper sheet. Put paper laid laid on on a a buttered buttered baking baking sheet. Put the the balls balls fairly fairly close Cook in 8 minutes. close together. together. Cook in a a moderate moderate oven oven for for 7 7 to to 8 minutes. When When little liule pinkish pinkish beads beads of of fat fat begin begin to to appear appear on on the the surface, surface, the the balls balls are are ready. ready. Take Take them them out out of of the the oven. oyen. Overturn Overtum on on a a board board or or marble marble slab, slab, peel peel off oIf the the paper, paper, holding holding it il at at one one corner. corner. Use Use as as required. required. Verl Veal forcemeat foreemeat for for borderg bord ers, large large strfred stulJed forcemeat forcemeal ballg balls, lininEs linings (for (for the the presentatim presentation of of hot hot entrees). entres). FARcE FARCE DE DE vEAU VEAU poLJR BoRDURES, cRossns euENELrss rounnfts, FoNDs DE POUR BORDURES, GROSSES QUENELLES FOURRES, FONDS DE pLAr - Ingredients. I kg. (2t lb.) lean veal, 300 g. PLAT - Ingredients. l kg. (2;\ lb.) lean veal, 300 g. (Il oz.) oz.) Flour Flour panada panada (see (see PANADA), PANADA), 5 5 whole whole eggs, eggs, 8 8 yolks, yolks, l! 1~ dl. dl. cold Bichamel Gl (;\- pint,3 pint,! cup) cup) very very thick, thick, cold Bchamel sauce sauce (see (see SAU-E), SAUCE), 3 3 teaspoons teaspoons salt, salt, I teaspoon teaspoon white white pepper, pepper, pinch pinch grated grated nutmeg. nulmeg. Method. Method. Pound Pound the the veal veal finely finely in in a a mortar mortar with with seasoning. seasoning. Take Take it it out out of of the the mortar rnortar and and put put the the panada panada in in its ils place. place. Pound Pound until until it it is is very very creamy. creamy. Add Add the the veal vea] and and pound pound thoroughly. thoroughly. Add Add the the eggs eggs and and yolks, yolks, one one at at a a time, time, then then the the bichamel bchamel sauce. sauce. Rub Rub through through a a sieve. sieve. Work Work with with a a spatula spatula until it is until it is very very smooth. smoolh. veal Veal and and port pork forcemat. foreemea!. FARCE FARCE DE DE VEAU VEAU ET ET DE DE PORC PORC Chop Chop 300 300 g. g. (11 (Il oz.) oz.) round round of of veal, veal, 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz.) oz.) lean lean pork pork and and 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz.) oz.) fresh fresh fat fat bacon. bacon. Pound Pound together together in in a a mortar, mortar, add add 2 2 whole whole eggs eggs and and I 1 dl. dl. (6 salt (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seant I t cup) cup) brandy, brandy, season season with with Spiced Spiced salt (see (see SALT) SALT) and and rub rub through through a a sieve. sieve. Anchovy foreemeat forremeat J. f. FARCE r.lnce AUX Aux ANCHOIS ANcHors -- Make Make aa white white Anchovy roux of I tablespoon of 1 tablespoon buller butter and and 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons fioul. flour. Moisten Moisten roux (6 tablespoons, with 1 I dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, seant scant !cup) boiling milk. milk. Cook Cook for for with I cup) boiling a few few minutes minutes over over a very hot hot fla a very flame, stirring with with a a wooden wooden a me, stirring spoon. When When very very thiek, thick, remove remove from from the the stove. stove. spoon. Add 1 yolks, and I whole whole egg, eEE,2 and the the filJets fillets of of 4 4 desalted desalted Add 2 yolks, anchovies. Rub Rub through through a fine sieve. a fine sieve. Cook Cook for for a a few few seconds, seconds, anchovies. stirring. Rub Rub through through a a fine fine sieve. sieve. stirring. This stuffing stuffing is is used used as filling for as a a filling for savoury savoury tarts, tarts, dartois, Thil; dartois, pdtis, pies, pies, etc. small pls, etc. small (Car6me's recipe). Anchovy forcemeat forcemeat II, tr. (Carme's FARcE D'ANCHOIS recipe). FAR D'ANcHors Anchovy 'Soak 275 g. (10 (10 oz.) 275 g. oz.) anehovies anchovies to to remove remove the the salt; salt; c1ean clean -" - 'Soak and bone bone them. them. Toss Toss for (4 oz., for 2 2 minutes minutes in g. (4 in 100 100 g. oz.,1c.rp) and t cup) seasoned with butter, seasoned with 2 (3 tablespoons) 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) fines butter, fines pinch of herbes, a a pinch of nutmeg, nutmeg, and (see and a a very very little little Spiced Spiced salt sclt (see herbes, SALT). SALT). 'When the the mixture mixture is is cold, pound the eold, pound the fillets fillets of of anchovy anchovy 'When (6 oz.) g. (6 with 175 panada (see 175 g. (see PANADA). Add oz.) Bread panada Add the with the cooking butter butter with with the thefines herbes. Pound Pound Ihis this mixture mixture for for cooking fines herbes. (4 oz., g. (4 5 minutes, add add 100 100 g. (crayfish butter oz.,l cup) butter (crayfish 5 t cup) butter or or some other yolks. Mix other kind) kind) and and 3 3 egg egg yolks. Mix weIl.' well.' sorne This mixture mixture is is used used mostly mostly for for stuffing stuffing large large fish. fish. It It can This can also be be used used ta to stuft' stuff vegetables, vegetables, artichoke artichoke hearts, hearts, mushmushalso rooms, tomatoes, tomatoes, etc. etc. to to provide a a Lenten dish. rooms, Freshwater crayfish crayfiS forcemeal. forcemeat. FARCE FARcE D'CREVISSES o'fcnsvlssns Fresbwater Proceed as for Prawn or shrimp forcemeat (see as for (see below). Procecd Cream fisb fsh forcemeat forcemeat (L~mten), (Lenten). FARCE (r,r.llcnu) FARcE A LA rn CRME cnirr,m (MAIGRE) Cream Proceed as as indicated indicated for for veal poultry Mousseline veal or or poultry Mousseline - Proceed fish instead instead of rneal. meat. Pike, whiting, or sorne forcemeat, using fish some other suitable suitable fish may be used. other porssoN Fish foreemeat forcemeat l. I. FARCE Elncr DE I kg. Fish DE POISSON Ingredients. 1 - Ingrediens. (2+ lb.) lb.) pike other white-fleshed g. (14 fish), 400 4gp g. oi.) (2t pike (or (or other whitc-fieshed fish), Oa oz.) Frangipane panada (see PANADA), 4 or Rice 4 egg panada or Ri panada panada (see whites, 4 4 teaspoons salt, L I teaspoon pepper and and a a small whites, teaspoons salt, pinch grated nutmeg. of grated pinch of Method. as Quenelle Melhod. Prepare as j'orcemeal IL li. Quenelle forcemeat FiS Fish forcemeat tr. FARcE FARCE DE porssoN POISSON - Chop finely 300 g. (ll g. (7 (7 oz.,3l (lI oz.) whiting whiting or or other white fish. fish. Add 200 200 g. oz., 3t cups) soaked in cups) breadcrumbs, soaked in milk milk and and squeezed, squeezcd, 50 50 g. (2 (2 oz., i t cup) butter, butter, I 1 tablespoon choppod chopped blanched chives, chivei, I Season with salt, 1 tablespoon tablespoon chopped chervil chervil and parsley. parsley. Season pepper, pepper, and nutmeg. nutrneg. Bind with 2 eggs. eggs. Mix thoroughly. Mousseline Mousseline forcemeat for for fr$ fisil nousses mousses and and mousselines. mousselines. FARCE FARCE MOUS$LINE MOUSSELINE POIjR POUR MOUSSES MOUSSES ET ET MOUSSELINES MOUSSELINES DE DE polssoNs lb.) skinned and boned POISSONS - Ingredients. Ingredients. I 1 kg. (2+ (2ilb.) boned pike, whiting, whiting, sole, sole, salmon, or or trout, trout, 4 egg whites, whites, lf li litres (2{ (2;\pints, pints, 2f; 2~ pints) pints) fresh fresh cream, cream, lf lt teaspoons salt, j t teaspoon teaspoon white white pepper, pepper, pinch pinch grated grated nutmeg. nutrneg. Method. Method. Pound Pound the the fish fish in in a mortar mortar with the the seasoning. seasoning. Add Add the the egg egg whites, whites, a a little little at at a a time. time. Rub the mixture through through a fine fine sieve. Stir on ice ice until until very very smooth smooth and and leave leave on on the the ice ice for for 2 2 hours. hours. Add Add the the cream, cream, a little little at a a time, time, stirring stirring gently gently with with a spatula. spatula. This This mixture mixture is is used used for for light light fish fish quenelles, quenelles, mousses, mousses, and and mousselines, mousselines, and also also for for stuffing stuffiug large large braised braised fish. fish. Panada Panada forcemeat forcemeat with with butter butter @enten). (Lenten). M,ncs FARCE A r,c, LA IANADE PANADE ET ET AU AU BEURRE BEURRE (rrHrcnr) (MAIGRE) - Proceed Proceed as as for for veal veal or or chicken chicken Panadaforcemeat Panadtlforcemeat with wilh butter butter using using pike, pike, whiting, whiling, or or some sorne other other suitable suitable fish. fish. This This is is used uscd for for plain plain fish fish quenelles, quenelles, borders, borders, moulds, rnoulds, and and for for stuffing stuffing large large fish. fish. Panada Panada forcemeat forcemeat for for fi$ fisil and and shelffish sbellfisb mtltrsses. mousses. FARcE FARCE por.JR MoussEs DE porssoNs E'r DE cRusrAcfs (A u rlNlon) POUR MOUSSES DE POISSONS ET DE CRUSTACS ( LA PANADE)Proceod Proceed as as for for Mousseline Mousseline forcemeat forcemeat for for fish fish mousses, mousses, using using the following ingredients: (2* I kg. lb.) boned and skinned the following ingredients: 1 kg. (2~ lb.) boned and skinned fish, fish, 450 450 g. g. (1 (1 lb.) lb.) Frangipane Frangipane panada panada (see (see PANADA), PANA DA), 4 4 egg lt litres litres (2| (2~ pints, pints, 3f 3 pints) pinls) cream, eream, salt, salt, pepper, pepper, egg whites, whites, l| grated grated nutmeg. nutmeg.

(l|

n.

(ll

FORCEMEATS FORCEMEATS or or STUFFINGS STUFFINGS MADE MADE WITH WITH FISH. FISH.
FARCES FARCES DB DE PorssoNs. POISSONS, cnusmc6s: CRUSTACS:

388 388

HAM FORELEG FORELEGHAM

The Tbe addition addition of of the the panada panada to to this this forcemeat forcemeat gives gives it it body, body, but but makes makes it il less less delicate in flavour. ftavour. It is is used used for the the same purposes as Moasseline forcemeat for fish mousses. Pickled herring or sardine forremeat. FARcE DE HARENGS Use fillets sAURs, DE SARDTNEs fiJJels of of pickled herring or f()rt~pm'p{}/ L l. sardines, as for Anchovy forcemeat la lyonnaise, or Pike forcemeat or fuiveau GOOiveau lyonnaise. lyo!lllase. FARCE FARCE DE DE BRoCHET BROCHET A Ln LA rvor.rNArsn, LYONNAISE, DITE GoDTvEAU GODIVEAU LyoNLYONNAIsE NAISE - Ingredients.500 Ingredients. 500 g. (18 oz.) skinned and boned pike, pike, 500 g. (18 oz.) trimmed and and minced mnced beef beef suet, 500 g. (18 oz.) teaFrangipane Fran.gipane panada (see (see PANADA) PANADA) 4 egg egg whites, whites, Zf, 2 teaspoons salt, f; teaspoon pepper, pinch nutmeg. Method. Melhod. Pound the fat, the panada, and the egg whites in a mortar. morlar. Add the pike and the seasoning. Work the stuffing stuffing vigorously Vl""H'''''''V with with the the pestle. pestle. Rub Rub through a a fine tine sieve sieve and work with a a spatula until the mixture is very smooth. An An electric blender can be used. This This forcemeat forcemeat is is used used for for large large fish fish balls balls known known as quenelles lyonnaises. To make these, these. shape the forcemeat in a a spoon and poach in salt water. Simmer for l0 10 minutes in n with them, the served with the sauce sauce to to be be served them, usually usually a a meatless (se SAUCE) containing mushrooms, Espagnole Espagnole sauce sauce (sec SAUCE) containing stoned olives, olives, truffies, truffles, and other small delicacies. sauce such with a a thick are served with When pike quenelles are thiek sauce When other white as Nantua, lobster, shrimp, white whte wine or any olher as shellfisfu they sauce suitable for fish and shellfish, they should simply be poached drainrng and and drying them in salt water. After poacherl in salt Afler draining in a artichoke on artichoke on bread cloth, serve serve them cloth. them on bread fried fried in in butter, bUller, on with the sauce cover wlth hearts, or on flaky pastry. Garnish, and cover indicated indicated in the Ihe selected recipe. DE CREVETTES cREvETTES forcemeat. FARCE Prawn or shrimp forccmeat. FARCE DE - Pound (4 oz., with g. (4 or shrimps with o2.,3 in a mortar 100 100 g. prawns or in a mortar "up) to sieve. Add 10 g. ( through a fine (4 oz., I t cup) butter. butter. Rub fine sieve. 100 g. of hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs, of yolks of its volume volume of this mixture half its well. sieve. Mix weil. rubbed through lhrough a tine sieve. a fine hors-d'euvre. This mixture is used for cold hors-d'uvre. FrNE DE DE CRUSTAcF.S cnusuc6s fine. FARCE rlncs FINE Shellfish forcemeat, Bne. Shelffish cream forcemeat, indicated for shellfish, as as indicated using shellfish, A LA r,c, CRME cRit'fi - Proceed, Proceed, using for Mousseline Mousseline forcemeat for for jish ftsh mousses. used for for quenelles. This is used
vated vated mu$room$ mushrooms, moreb morels., St. St. Goorge's mushroong etc. FARCE fARCE DE DE cHAMpIcNoNS CHAMPIGNONS DIvERs DIVERS - Proceed, using using one one or or other of of these these fungi, first first tossed tosscd in in butter, butter, as as for for Truffie Trulfle jorcemeal (see below). These These forcemeats are are usd used in in the forcemeat
same same way way as as truffie trume forcemeat. forcemeaL Garlic forcemeat forcemeat - See GARLIC. GARLlC. Raviofi Ravioll forcemeat forcemeat - See RAVIOLI. RA VIOU.

Sage and onion oniOIl forcemeat forcemeat @ngli$ (English cookery). r'rlRcE FAR A LA LA sAUcE SAUGE - Used Used to stuff stutr poultry, especially duck duck and and goose. goose. Bake Bake 2 large onions in their skins in the oven. oven. Leave Leave to to cool. Skin and chop them. Mix Mil< with with 150 1 g. (5 (5 o2.,2| oz., 2! cups) breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, which which have been dipped dappe<! in milk milk and squeezed, and 150 150 g. (5 (5 oz.) cooked and chopped beef beef suet. suet. Add 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) chopped chopped sage, sage, season season with with salt salt and and pepper, pepper, and and mix

thoroughly. Trufle forcemeat lorCernejlt (Car6me's (Carme's recipe). FARcE FARCE Aux AUX TRUFFES TRUFFES 'Chop 'Chop 150 g. g. (5 (5 oz.) black truffies, trumes, and toss them for for a a few (4 oz., i with Spiced Spiced minutes minutes in 100 g. (4 ~ c,rp) butter butter seasoned seasoned with (see SALT) and a touch of nutmeg. Drain salt (see Drain the trufles truffles on 75 e.Q aplate, andpound a and g. (3 oz.) Breadpanada(sePANADA). Breadpanada(see: PANADA). 'When the trufres in the mortar HUmes are cold, cold, put put thern tbem in mOrlar and pound a few pound them with with the the panada panada for for a few minutes. Add Add the cooked, and butter butter in in which the the truffies truffies were were cooked, and pound pound totogether Mix in smooth. Mix gether until untiJ the mixture is is perfectly perfectly smooth. in 3 egg yolks.' yolks.' and winged used for This forcemeat is This is used for stuffing stuffing poultry poultry and is also also used game, and and for for meat meal or fish paupiettes paupielle. (q.v.). (q.v.). It It s in various various hot pdtis. plah. for vegetables (various). FARcE poun r,6cuurs SfutrngF for Sruffings Used to stuff stuff vegetables such as aubergines, small vegetable vegelable artichoke zucchini), tomatoes, marrows (courgettes marrows (courgettes or or zucchini), tomatoes, artichoke hearts, a thickened hearts, etc. elc. It Il is is really really a thickened Duxelles Duxelles sauce (see of the the vegetables, the pulp of which is added the SAUCE) to SAUCE) to which is addcd oil. scooped out after they have beentcooked in oi!. DE JAUNES D'oEUFsCold. Rub Rub JAUNES D'OEUFS Yolk of egg stuffing. FARcE fARCE DE - Cold. sieve. Add Add a fine fine sieve. yolks of through a l0 hard-boiled eggs through the yolks of 10 paste. Season with g. (4 (4 oz., t a paste. with to a butter softened to 100 g. * cup) butter pepper, and mix. salt and white pepper, salt mix. hors-d'ouvre, especially especially spread in in co cold This is is used used as as a a spread This Id hors-d'uvre,
(see HORS-D'UVRE, HORS-D'(EUVRE, Cold horsrusse (see it la la russe for Canapds for halvod hard-boiJerl hard-boiled for halved used as as filling for d'euvre\. It is is also also used d'uvre). tartlets barquettes or or t.artlets hearts, and and small barque/les eggs, artichoke artichoke hearts, eggs, garnishes wi1 dishes. served as with cold dshes. as garnishes yolks of a sieve. hard-boiled eggs through a of hard-boiled .F/ot. Rub the the yolks HOI. Rub thick Bichamel sauce of thick half Iheir their weight of Mix with with half Season. Mix Season. passed through (see SA a fine sieve. through a SAUCE) (sec UCE) passed prehard-boiled eggs to fill fill hard-boile<! eggs preThis stuffing is use<! used mainly mainly to stuffing s This pared au gratin (see EGGS, Eggs A teaspoon d la la Chimay). Chimay). A ou gratin pared Eggs parsley is It is is added. added. It chopped parsley and ehopped of dry dry duxelles duxelles (q.v.) and of with which are are then then sprinkled with also used used to to stuff vegetables which also and browned, and melted butter butter and with melted breadcrumbs, basted with tartlets, etc. barquettes, tartlets, etc. to 611 fill small small vol-au-vent, barquelles, ta

STUFFINGS. or STUFFINGS. FORCEMEATS or MISCELLANEOUS FORCEMEATS FARCES DlVERSESDIVERSES _ FARCES OFFAL VARIETY MEATS. forcemeat Brain forcemeaf FF AL or V A RlETY M EA TS. - See 0 pouR POISSONS polssoNs - Soak Soak 250 250 g. r.lnct POUR Forcemeat for for ftsh, fish. FARCE Forcemeat (9 oz., them. milk and and squeeze squeeze them. in milk o2.,4| cups) cups) breadcrumbs in (9 g. (3 (3 oz., chopped cup) finely finely ehopped Add 75 75 g. o2.,1 Beat in in a a bowl. Beat %cup) bowl. Add (l oz., g. (1 soft, 25 25 g. in buller until very soft, butter untiJ onion, cooked cooked slowly in onion, the white wine wine until until aH all Ihe cooked in in white shallot, cooked c,rp) chopped shallot, i* cup) g. (4 OZ., chopped raw o2.,2 moisture has evaporated, 100 g. 2 cups) chopped (or 3 tab1espoons tablespoons have been been squeezed squeezed (or mushrooms, which have (scant t cup) chopped tablespoon chopped duxelles), and 1 tablespoou cup) dry dry duxelles) (seant , and pepper, parsley. Bind with salt, salt, pepper, Season with whole eggs. Bind with 2 whole eggs. Season parsley. with 2 and grated nutmeg. and forcefor which which the the forcethe dish dish for According to of the Ac,.:,orOWlg to the nature of garlic may added. may be be added. a toueh touch of garlic meat is is to to be used, used, a potssoNs poun POISSONS A fish. FAR rmcr POlJ'R Forcemeat Forceneat la la provengale for Ilsb. (4 oz., g. (4 I cup) finely oz., 1 100 g. Cook slowly slowly 100 LA pRovENgALE (* cup) very cup) oit oil until very 4 tablespoons in 4 tablespoons (1 chopped onions ln garlic and g. and 150 150 g. chopped clove of garlic Add a a finely finely chopped clove of tender. Add (5 oz., a few few for a raw mushrooms. Brown Brown for oz.,2f cups) chopped chopped raw (5 2{- cups) seconds. seconds. g. (9 oz., pan from 250 g. from the the stove stove and and add add 250 Remove the the pan Remove grated breadcrumbs, 1 I tablespoon chopped 4{ cups) freshly freshly grated 4! parsley and and chervil, and 3 chives, tablespoon chopped parsley tablespoon chopped chives, hard-boiled eggs. eggs. chopped hard-boiled chopped salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg. Season Season witb with salt, Forcemeat of of various fungi and mushrooms, cipes, cultiForCmeat

41

growing vegetablcs vegetables and and of growing Process of FORCING. FoRgAcE - Process glass in order ripen them them before before their their time. time. to ripen fruit under glass order to fruit 'forced'products. called 'forced' These products are are then then called These products. fruits and and vegetables is is these fruits The distinguishing quality of these The price. Good cooks seldom buy Good cooks their rarity and their high priee. theu proper season. products in iniheir season. them, preferring to use these products their proper
PocIrE - Funnel-shapep FORCINC-BAG (U.S. Pastry-bag). POCHEFORCING-BAG (French douilles) of nozzles (French bag which which cau can be fitted with nozzles bag with made with These nozzles nozzles are are made sizes. Thes.e different shapes shapes and and sizes. different plain or or fluted, fluted, so so which can can be be plain apertures which large or or sm small large ail apertures piped in in a a wide wide range range of of be piped can be mixtures can that creamy mixtures that decorative designs.

The French French word word TAMBoNNEAU HAM. JAMBONNEAU FORELEG HAM. FORELEG The
389 389

FORESTIERE FORESTIRE (A ( LA)

jambonneau which is is sometimes sometimes translated as as foreleg ham, ham, or picnic picnic ham in the U.S.A., refers to the portion below the ham and hind legs legs of the pig. pig. (See harn or shoulder of both fore and HAM.) HAM.)
QUATRE EptcssPICES - A much used mixture, for FOUR SPICES. SPICES. euArRE which, purveyor had a which, formerly, each purveyor formula. The a special formula. most usual is the following: following: (* oz.) powdered cloyes, 125 e. g. g (4 oz.) white pepper, l0 10 e. g. (t n5 cloves, (generous I (l oz.) ginger, 35 g. 30 g. (1 g. (generous 1 oz.) grated nutmeg.

fOnfSffDRE FORESTIRE (A ( LA) (See GARNISHES.) GARNISHES.)

Method of preparation of smalJ small cuts of meat and poultry, garnished ofmeat garnished with with morels, morels, lean larding bacon bacon cut in large large pieces, and diced potatoes fried in butter. butter.
FOR](, FouRcHErrE FOURCHETTE - Table utensil utensil designed designed to to pick up FORK meat food. It It is is of very very ancient ancient origin origin as as it is meat and and other food.
mentioned in the Old Testament. It was first used used as a ritual instrument to to grip grip pieces pieces of meat meat destined for for sacrifices; sacrifices; later it was used in the kitchen. kitchen. According to the eleventh eleventh century Italian Italian scholar, Damiani, Damiani, forks forks were introduced introduced into century Byzantine princess and thence spread through Venice by a Byzantine Italy. They are mentiond mentioned in in 1379 1379 in in an an inventory of the French king, king, Charles Charles V; V; and and Edward Edward II II of of England's England's French favourite, favourite, Piers Gaveston, Gaveston, is recorded recorded as having having eaten a pear pear the early fourteenth fourteenth century. century. However, eating with a fork in the not become fashionable fashionable until until the the sevensevenwith forks forks did did not with century. teenth centurv.

FOUR YELLOW YELLOW FRUITS. FRUITS F'OUR FRUITS. QUATRE euArRE FRUrrs Oranges, lemons, lemons, bitter bitter oranges, and citrons. citrons. Oranges,

JAUNES TAUNBS -

FOX. nsxlno RENARD - Animal Animal ranking as vermin. Its flesh f1esh is very tough and with an extremely unpleasant 'wild' taste, but it tough eaten after the the animal animal has has been been skinned and is sometimes eaten f1esh soaked in running water or boiling water. the flesh - See COOKERY, WINE. FRANCE See INTERNATIONAL COOKERY, FRANCHE-COMT FRANCHF-COMTE - Mountainous region in the western part of the Belfort Gap, surrounded surrounded by regions regions abundant in edible products products and famous famous wines. In edible ln the north are Lorraine inc1uding the Bugey, which and Alsace; in the south Savoy, including a great centre of fine fine cuisine. To west it borders on is a To the west Bresse, and and Champagne. To the east Burgundy, Bresse, To the east its its immediate neighbour neighbour is Switzerland. The mediate The geographical position of Franche-Comt6 Franche-Comt has influenced its inhabitants inhabitants to be great of gastronomes. gastronomes. A variety of excellent foods is produced in this province. Franche-Comt and the Jura, the beef beef cattle are famous In Franche-Comt6 their well-flavoured well-f1avoured meat and and high-quality milk, milk, from for their cheese and and other other dairy dairy products products are are made. made. In In the which cheese orchards of Franche-Comt6, Franche-Comt, excellent excellent fruit, fruit, particularly particularly orchards an abundant stone fruit, is grown. This part of France has an variety of of game. In the rivers, streams, streams, and ponds, ponds, numerous variety quantities. The inhabitants in habitants kinds of fish are found in great quantities. cook them them in in delicious delicious ways, ways, notably in in succulent stews. cook stews. red mullet, pike Known for their delicacy are Saulon carp, red Doubs and and Dessoubs Dessoubs trout, trout, and and Breuchin Breuchin from Ognon, Ognon, Doubs from trout the the flesh f1esh of which is is very well weil flavoured. f1avoured. In salmon trout Breuchin there there are also good crayfish. the Breuchin Franche-Comt include inc1ude Septmoncel, Septmoncel, which which Chee ses from Franche-Comtd Cheeses knowledgeable people consider a rival to Roquefort, some knowledgeable Comt cheese, which is a kind of Gruydre, Gruyre, Fromagdre, Fromagre, and Comt6 Fromage fort. Fromage

dfl

Renaissance forks

-In the seventeenth seventeenth century, century, use use of the the fork, which was
originally two-pronged, two-pronged, then three-pronged, and later la ter fouroriginally pronged, pronged, spread spread from from Italy Italy and and Spain Spain into into France France and England. England. An English English traveller named Thomas Thomas Coryate is bringing the the use use of the the fork to England after a credited with bringing trip to 1608. to Italy in 1608. While in Paris in in 1612, Coryate Coryate remarked that the the fork While was though not yet amongst the the comwas used used in good society, though mon people. H6rouard Hrouard in the Journal Journal of of Louis Louis XIZ XIV speaks speaks mon of the the Dauphin beating beating the the table table with his his fork and spoon. spoon. of Modern forks forks are made made in in many sizes and and many metals, metals, as Modern as to to the weil as as in plastics plastics and and woods. woods. Etiquette varies as well proper proper way of of holding holding and using using a fork, and in which hand. FORK LUNCIIEON. LUNCHEON. orretrNm. DJEUNER A u LA rouncHErrE FOURCHETTE - A meal meal FORK taken towards towards the middle middle of of the the day. day. FOUNT AIN. roxrl'trqs FONTAINE - Term Term employed in pastry-making pastry-making FOUNTAIN. to describe describe placing placing flour f10ur on the the board board in a circle. circle. to various ingredients ingredients used used to to make make the the pastry pastry are then then The various placed placed inside inside the'fountain'. the 'fountain'.

FOURDERAINE - Home-made Home-made liqueur which used used to to be be FOURDERAIhIE common in in the the north north of of Franoe France and is still sometimes sometimes found common there. The hedge hedge sloes used in making making it are picked picked after after the the there. is prepared in in the the first frost, frost, when when they they are are ripe. This This liqueur liqueur is first same way as as cassis. cassis. s:!me FOURME - See See CHEESE. CHEESE. FOURME

FOUR FOUR MENDICANTS. MENDICANTS. euArRE QUATRE MENDTANTs MENDIANTS - Dessert Dessert made made up up of figs, figs, raisins, raisins. hazelnuts, hazelnuts, and and almonds, whose whose
colours of the the four four mendicant mendicant Orders. colours recall recall those those of

FOUR RED RED FRUITS. FRUITS. eu.rrnr QUATRE FRUrrs FRUITS RoucEs ROUGES berries, cherries, cherries, redcurrants redcurrants and and raspberries. raspberries. berries,

StrawStrawFranche-Comt (French (French Government Government Tourist Tourisi Office) Office) Franche-Comt6

390 390

FRANCHE-COMTE FRANCHE-COMTl
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Vineyards

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Pike. Motelote of fish Snails. fimbole graYloise

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Pikc quenelles

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S x[gffi;.Qarbe's ilc,$~ llXeuil / ;>~$ r 'Meliso/

Troul. Crayfish, \\ oFouqefolle.s.-Foug olles_ ..chicken Chlcken with with m morel'

Crayfish,

'OreUCl)in~ Barbel,
Bilberry j.m

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Montbozon

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rrieo ctr rctln, Omelerte ou klisch

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duck', Ilver Hot pigeon Sweetbre.d morels

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SWITZERLAND

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SAVOY SAVOY
of Frar.che-Comte Franche-Comt6 Gastronomic map map or Gastronomie

the specialities specialities among the Foremost among Cutinary specialities specialities CuJinary - Foremost prepared is prepared potie franc-comlOise, which is porridge, pOle are maize maize porridge, are franc-comtoise, which has Morteau Morteau (q.v.) from but has potie (q.v.) other regions regions but from other like pOle Iike panada, a like a a dish like a dish leg soup; soup; panada, to il; it; frog's sausage added added to sausage frog's leg pulp; cherry soup; cherry soup; a pulp; boiled to to a and butter butter boiled soup with with bread bread and soup vegetables. fresh vegetables. soups made made with with fresh range of of soups and a a whole whole range and and can can be be Franche-Comt6 and in Franche-Comt All charculerie charcuterie is is excellent excellent in Ail It includes includes large towns. towns. Il many other other large in Paris and many bought in Paris and bought kinds of of different kinds from Luxeuil; Luxeuil; different ham, mainly mainly l'rom smoked ham, smoked and Montbozon; and from Montbozon; sausage from sausages including including caraway caraway sausage sausages Besangon. stufed lOngue tongue from from Besanon, slUffed found in in Franche-Comt Franche-Comt6 dishes to to be be round The most most lmous famous dishes The or red red white or fish with with white from freshwater freshwater fish stews made made from are fish are fish Slews very in wine, cooked very wine, cooked herbs; meal meat braised braised in wine, onions onions and and herbs; wine, juices; preserve ail all the the meat meat juices; to preserve casserole to slowly in in aa covered covered casserole slowly jugged hare hare d /a la fi'anc-comlOise; pike quenelles quenelles of of Vesoul; Vesoul; jugged pike franc-comtoise;
391 391

gratin; cheese an gralin; cheese pain d'crivisses; marrow au d'ioivisses; marrow cheese fondue; cheese fondue; pain pancakes called called onion /Ourle; tourte; pancakes potatoes; morels toast: onion morels on on loasl; po/alOes,' specially cheese tart tart specially ramekins ; frillers; matefaim ; rumekins; male/im; flamus se, cheese frit ter s : flamusse, and made with with eggs eggs and flat bread bread made siche, flat made Ln in Burgundy; Burgundy; sche, made pastry and and almond pas/l'y Baume-les-Dames; a/mond of Baume-les-Dames; sugar; craquelins craquelins of sugar; malakof of of Montb6liard; malakoff viques of of Montbliard; Montbozon; viques biscuits of of Montbozon; bL5cuils galette de goumeau of of Saint-Amour; Saint-Amour; quiche com/Oise; de goumeau comtoise; ga/elle DOle; quiche Dle; chestnut of Baume-les-Dames; Baume-les-Dames; ches/nu/ gaufres de de chanoinesses chanoinesses of gaufres paste made from made from Dole; pas/e pain d'pice Vercel and and Dole; of Vercel d'dpice of cakes; pain cakes; andwhortlebilberry and quinces growing growing in Baumeles-Dames; bilberry in Baume-les-Dames; quinces who rllejam l'rom Melisey. from Melisey. berry jam berry (and particularly particularly Franche-Comt6 (and Wines and and liqueurs liqueurs -- Franche-Comt Wines produces white, red, red, and and excellent white, Jura) prod of Jura) the dparlemenl dipartemmt of uces excellent the yellow wine, wine, which which the celebrated celebrated yellow not to to mention mention the ros6 wines, wines, not ros (vins de paille) de paille) and s!raw straw wines wines (vins region, and is a speciality of of the the region, a speciality is and Hermitage, Hermitage. Jura and which are find outside outside Jura are difficu]! difficult to to find which

FRANCILLON SALAD SALAD FRANCILLON

yellow wine The yellow wineis ismade made from fromthe grape.The theSavagnin Savagningrape. The The distinctive nutty f1avour jaune) demands (gotit de flavour(got dejaune) demands strictly strictly distinctive nutty controlled and highly specialisod methods of vinification. controlled and highly specialised methods of vinification. fermentation, and conservation. conservation.The The best yellow wine best yellow wine is is fermentation, and that of Chfl teau-Chalon. tha! of Chteau-Chalon. Straw wine wine is isso-called so-called because grapes are because the the grapes aresun-dried sundried Straw on straw mats mats before pressed. before being being pressed. on straw The Jura appellations appellationsare: are: The Jura Yellow wines. wines. Arbois, Arbois, Ctes C6tes du du Jura, Jura, Chteau-Chalon, Chdteau-Chalon, Yel/ow Etoile. toile. Straw wines. wines. Arbois, Cdtes du Jura, Etoile. Straw Arbois, Ctes du Jura, toile. Red and rosi wines. Arbois. C6tes du Jura. Red and ros wines. Arbois, Ctes du Jura. While wines. Arbois, C6tes du Jura, Etoile. White wines. Arbois, Ctes du Jura, toile. Some well-known well-known liqueurs liqueurs are are also also made made in in FrancheFrancheSorne Comt6. The The kirsch of Fougerolles is particularly well known. Comt. kirsch of Fougerolles is particularly weU known.
Since 1888, 1888, various various laws laws have havedefined defined the thercpression repression of Since of fraudulent practices practices in in the the marketing marketing of goods. Acts of goods. Acts and and fraudulent decreeshave have been, been, and and continue continue to passed to to be protect be passed to protect decrees drink and produce. and food food produce. drink In France, France, from from the the Middle Middle Ages Ages onwards, quality and onwards, quality and ln quantity were were under understrict strict surveillance. surveillance. River ports, markets, River ports, markets, quantity and shops shops were wereail allcontrolled. controlled. Thus Thus in in 1577 1577 Henri Henri III III ordered ordered and all bakers bakers to pair of to keep keep aa pair of scales scales and and legitimate legitimate weights weights in in ail their windows, windows, workrooms, workrooms, and and carts, carts,50 so that that each each eus customer theu tomer might check check the the weight weight of his bread of his bread himself. himself. ln ln the rhe eigheighmight teenth century, century, the the Police Police Code Code added that the addod that thescales scales had had to to teenth be hung hung sufficiently sufficiently high high to preclude the to preclude possibility of the possibility of the the be seller tipping tipping it it with with rus his thumb. thumb. seller Fraudulent practices were severely reprimanded: were severely reprimanded : penalties penalties Fra udulent practices included the the confiscation confiscation of goods, demolition of goods, demolition of of ovens, ovens, a a included fine or or an an amende amende honorable, honorable, and, and, in in the Middle Ages, the Middle Ages, fine public flogging. flogging. public In 1431, 1431, if if aa cookshop proprietor sold cookshop proprietor sold a a cat cat for for a a rabbit, rabbit, ln he was was condemned condemned to go to to go to the the banks banks of of the the Seine Seine in in the the he part of busiest part of the the day day and and shout shout an an apology apology to to the the crowd crowd busiest while throwing throwing the the offending offending cat cat into the the river. river. The The butchers butchers while were forbidden forbidden to pigs nourished to buy buy pigs nourished on human blood. on human blood. It It were was forbidden forbidden to to sell sell reheated reheated meat, meat, to keep meal to keep meat more more than than was two days days in in win winter and one one and and a a half days days in in summer, summer, to two ter and sell meat meat by by lamplight lamplight or or candlelight candlelight (such (such Iights lights made made it it sell easier for for discoloured, putrid meal discoloured, putrid passed off as meat to to be be passed as rosy easier and fresh). fresh). A A regulation regulation in in 1399 1399 controlled controlled the the time time of of day day and during which which candies candles might might be used. during On22 June 1351 l35l sorne some suspect meat was confiscated confiscated in Ihe the On 22 June master butcher Bardel's shop in in rue Baudet-Saint-Antoine. mas ter butcher Bardel's shop Baudet-Saint-Antoine. The Corporation, Corporation, outraged outraged that one of of their members The that one their members should disgraced himself, demanded thal that he he be shou Id have have disgraced himself, demanded be condemned. He accused as demned. He was was accused as a poisoner poisoner and was taken to the pillory in Les subsequently put to death. pillory in Les Halleswhere Halles where he he was was subsequently paris butchers One hundred One hundred and and twenty-seven twenty-seven bareheaded bareheaded Paris witnessod execution of witnessed the the execution of their their confrire. confrre.

IilUUYCIIr.ON SALAn SALN) - Title Title of of a a Japanese Japanese. salad, salad, the the FRANCILLON recipe for given by for which which was younger Alexandre was given by the the younger Alexandre recipe Dumas in play Francillon in a performed at a play Francillon perfonned at the the ComdieCom6dieDumas Francaise. The The recipe recipe for for this potatoes, this salad, salad, of of mussels, mussels, potatoes, Francaise. and truffies, trufres, will will be be found found under under SALAD. SALAD. and FRANCOLIN - Wild Wild bird bird resembling resembling a partridge, found a partridge, found in in FRANCOLIN wann countries, especially in Sicily and Greece. Its flavour warm countries, especially in Sicily and Greece. Ils f1avour is something like that of partridge (q.v.), and it is prepared is something like that of partridge (q.v.), and it is prepared in the same same way. in the way.

of salt. salt. a pinch of Method. sugar, sieved Melhod. Put Put the the sugar, sieved flour, Hour, and and salt salt into into a a heaw heavy saucepan with a flat bottom. Add the eggs and yolks. Mix saucepan with a flat bottom. Add the eggs and yolks. Mix all the ingredients ail the ingredients thoroughly thoroughly and and add add the the milk milk very very gradugradually.. Cook slowly, stirring all the time, for 2 to 3 minutes. ally. Cook slowly, stirring ail the lime, for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the butter and the crushed Add the butter and the crushed macaroons. macaroons. Mix. Mix. FRANKENTAL grape Black also known as FRANKENT AL - Black grape also known as Black Black HamHampurg, and burg, originating originating in in Germany. Germany. The The fruit fruit is is very very large juicy, and is often included in gift baskets of fruit. large and juicy, and is often included in gift baskets of fruit. FRASCATI - See }'RASCATISee RESTAURANTS RESTA URANTS OF OF BycONE BYGONE DAYS. DA YS.

FRANGIPANE Mixture of of flour, flour, egg yolks, butter, egg yolks, butter, and and FRANGIPANE - Mixture milk, which which is (cream puB) is cooked cooked like like a pvfr) pastry. a chou chou (cream milk, paslry. Used in poultry and fish forcemeat. Used in poultry and fish forcemeat. FRANGIPANE CREAM Cream used preparation in the the preparation - Cream FRANGIPANE CREA.c'\1 used in of different different desserts desserts or or sweets sweets and and cakes, cakes, made made like of like French French pastry uearn (see CREAM). pastry creonl (see CREAM). Ingredients. g. (9 generous 250 oz., cup) sugar, g. 250 g. Ingredients. 250 g. (9 oz., generous cup) sugar, 250 (9. o2.,2| c3ns) sifted flour, 4 whole eggs ind 8 egg yolki, (9 oz., 2:\: cups) sifted flour, 4 whole eggs and 8 egg yolks, (2| pints, 3f pints) lf litres pints) milk and flavou-rd If litres (2l pints, :Ji milk boiled boiled and flavoured with with vanilla, 50 crushed macaroons, 100 g. (4 oz., crrp) butter, vanilla, 50 crushed macaroons, 100 g. (4 oz., t cup) butter,
a pinch

ITREEZINGFREEZING See See PRESERVATION PRESERVATION OF FOOD. FRENCH CULINARY FRENCH CULINARY AND AND TABLE TABLE SLANG. SLANG, ARGoT ARGOT

(A LA) FRASCATI FRASCATI ( tA) - Garnish Garnish for for meat meat dishes dishes with with consists consists of of thin thin slices sUces of/ole of foie gras, gras, asparagus asparagus tips, tips, mushrooms, mushrooms, and and (See GARNISHES.) truffies. trumes. (See GARNISHES.) Deception Deception in in the the manufacture manufacture and and sale of food products. Fraud occurs when the type and sale of food products. Fraud occurs when the type and origin of the product food origin of the food product does does not not correspond correspond to to the the name name under which it is sold (for example, pdte de foie gras conunder which il is sold (for example, pte de foie gras containing other than goose or duck liver) or when the quantity taining other than goose or duck liver) or when the quantity goods is not of of goods is not as as specified. specified. (See (See also also ADULTERATION) ADULTERATION.) Fraudulence in such matters is nothing new, and it has Fraudulence in such matters is nothing new, and it has always been the duty of the authorities to try to uncover it always been the dut y of the authorities to try to uncover it and stamp it out. and stamp it out. When When the the corporations corporations were were in in command command and free trade did not exist, the legislator at that time had no and free trade did not exist, the legislator at that time had no scientific means of investigation and had to limit himself to scientific means of investigation and had to limit himself to preventive measures. All secret work was forbidden and preventive measures. Ali secret work was forbidden and consequently all night work was forbidden. Itwas forbidden consequently ail night work was forbidden. Il was forbidden to keep variety of products in the same shop. Distinctive to keep a a variety of products in the same shop. Distinctive trademarks and certain symbols were compulsory on manutrademarks and certain symbols were compulsory on manufactured products. Offendcrs were factured products. Offenders were severely severely punished. punished.
FRAUDE ALMENTATRE FRAUDE ALIMENTAIRE -

FRAUDULENT FRAUD'LENT MISREPRESENTATION MlSREPRESENTATION OF OF F'OOD. FOOD,

collection collection of of non-technical non-technicaJ spoken words that appeal to to a a social group. The The group group - corporative, corporative, schoolboy, schoolboy, fashionfashionsocial group. able able society society - is, is, he he specifies, specifies, a more more or or less less coherent one. one, adding, adding, 'Slang 'Slang varies varies from from profession profession to to profession'. profession'. It It is is therefore therefore only only right right and and fitting fiuing that that the the culinary culinary proprofession fession should should have have its ils own own brand brand of of slang. slang. The The table table is is la la carante. caran te. Then Then the the food, food, in in other other words words /a la fripe, fripe, la la crofite, crole, k la briffe, briffe, h la cuistance, cuislance, Ia la bdquetance, bquelance, la la jaffe, jaffe, Ia la graine, graine, la la tortore, IOrtore, la la daronge, dnronge, Ie le frichti frichti arrives. arrives. Everyone Everyone has has tm un estome eSlOme (stomach), (stomach), and and one one has has to to eat eat in in other other words, words, claper, claper, croquer, croquer, tortorer, IOrlOrer, cacher, cacher, grainer, grainer, claboter, claboter, clapoter, clapoter, claquer, claquer, gousser, gousser, morfiler, morfiler, morfier, morfier, to to live. live. And And if if la la jaffe jaffe is is good good then then on on se se morfale, morfale, on onfircote, fircote, on on se se bigale bgaie (one (one enjoys enjoys
Bread Bread and and wine wine are are placed placed on on the the table table first. firs!. Bread, Bread, or or le le gringue, gringue, I'artifaille, /'artifaille, la la brique, brque, le le brigetcn, brigetcn, le le brignollet. brignollet. Wine, Wine, or or le le sirop, sirop, le le pivois, pivois, le lejaja, jaja, le lepive, pive, le le tutu, lutu, le le busard, busard, le le picrate, picrate, le le pichtegom. pichtegom. If If it it is is a a robust robust red red wine wine it it is is /e le coaltair; coaltair; if ifit it is is a a fine fine lightwine, light wine, it it is is le le coulange. coulange. It lt can can be be rouquin rouquin (red) (red) or or beaujolpif beaujolpif and and will will be be in in a a bottle, boUle, that that is is to to say say Ia la betterave, betterave, la la boutanche, boutanche, la la rouille.If rouille. If it it is is in in litres. litres, it it is is Ie lekil kil or or kilo kilo and and on on le lepictera pic/era (it (it will will be be quaffed quaffed with with a a right right good good will). will). If Ifit itis isaa bottle botlleof ofchamp champ(Champagne) (Champagne)itit becomes becomes a a roteuEe.It rOleuse. lt is is drunk drunk n in un unguindal, guindai, tm un bennard bennardor or tm unglasse. glasse. The The appetite appetite begins begins with with I'apdro l'apro (the (the alfa alfa of ofthe the good good old old days I'alfa being days has has gone go ne--l'alfa being the the absinth absinth (la (la verte\ ver le) of ofla laBelle Belle Epoque). Epoque). From From /a la bouillante bouillante (soup) (soup) we we move move on on to to la la
392 392 oneself). oneself).

cuIsINE CUISINE ET ET DE DE TABLE TABLE - Slang, wrote Gaston Esnault Esnault in his his Dictionnaire Dictionnaire historiEte historique des des argots argots frangais franais (Larousse) is is 'a

DE DE

FRENCH FRENCH CULINARY CULINARY NAMES NAMES

barbaque or or bidoche, bidoche, le le saciflard saciflard (saucisson), (saucisson), also also called called du du barbaque bits, then then came les les navarins navarins (turnips), (turnips), les les loubiats loubiats (haricot (haricot Dils, beans), then then le le calendo calendo (Camembert) (Camembert) which which is is rm un rAme l'me beans), (cheese), (cheese), then then le le caowt caoua (coffee) (coffee) which, which, being being black, black, can can also also biffi. At At last last it it is is time bme for for la la consolante, consolante, a a bottle bottle of of be called called biffi. be wine drunk drunk before before leaving leaving (or (or after after the the coup coup de feu). (Slang (Slang wine

Cond6 certain preparations preparati.ons by by tu certain Cond (A ( ta) la) - Name N ame given to Feuillet, Cond household household during during the the Feuillet. master mas ter chef chef of o!' the Conde Restoration. Restora tion. Conti Conti (A ( h) la) - Name Na'11e given to to several several recipes recipes created created by by the of the the Prince Prince of Conti. Conti. the chefs chefs of But But it it was was the the Princess Princess of of Conti Conti who whc 'invented' 'invented' the the loin loin of of mutton mutton that that bears bears her her name, name, the the famous famous loin loin gourmande gourmand mentioned de de persil (gourmandised (gourmandised with with parsley) parsley) that that is is mentioned in in le le Bourgeois Kn:lJrC,pnl~ gentilhomme. ,f?,em'lIfl'onlme. Cussy (A ta) - Louis Louis de de Cussy, Cussy, one one of of the the wittiest wittiest gourmets a""rlYlp!C of of the the early early nineteenth nineteenth century century was was prefect prefect of of the palace palace under under Napoleon Napoleon I. 1. and and the the chef chef dedicated dedicated some sorne recipes recipes to to him. him. Duroc la) - V6ry, Vry, who who owed owed much much in in his bis early days days to to Duroc (A ta) . . to the the protection protection of of Marshal Marshal Duroc Duroc and and . ... to the love love of of few dedicate a Madame Madame V6ry, Vry, could could hardly hardJy do do less Jess than than dedicate a few recipes to :0 his his benefactor. benefactor. C6sar owe this ta) Frangipane (A l<r<~no,in~lnp ( la) We owe this pastry pastry cream cream to to Csar - We de M6dicis nobleman. Catherine Catherine de Italian nobleman. an Italian Frangipani, an Mdicis France. introduced it into into France. Madame de de to Madame assistant to G6rard was ta) - Grard G6rard (A la) was assistant after his creations creations after of nis He called one of called one chef. He Pompadour's Pompadour's chEf. the to bear bear the common to it too too common considered it himself because because he he consider~d It de Pompadour. Pompadour. It personage as as Madame such a a personage name of such name of Madame de veau h la la Gra,d. Girard. de veau was manchon de a very very good who was was a (A la) The marquise, ta) Maintenon ( Maintenon marquise, who - The the widow still the she was was still when she (she invented an oven when an oyen cook (she cook lover. royal lover. papillotes for for her her royal en papillotes cdtelettes en created ctelelles Scarron), created her nam\::. name. They still bear bear her invented on on was invented that chicken chicken Marengo was It is said said that Marengo- lt called a Swiss Swiss called by Bonaparte's Bonaparte's cook, a itself by the battlefield itself Dunant. to used to period, a restaurateur used a Parisian Parisian restaurateur same period, the same Around the (the veal in first tossed tossed in veal being being first ragofit (the tomato ragot veal and and tomilto serye a a veal serve Dieu. When news of of When news La Grce Grdce de de Dieu. his restaurant La oil) in in his olive oil) the exchange the stock exchange by the the Paris Paris stock was circulated circulated by victory was the victory the Marengo. veau Marengo. his veal veal dish dish veau christened his humble restaurateur christened humble (where Vdfour (where Grand Vfoul" runs the the Grand who runs Raymond Oliver, Oliver, who Raymond with Josephine) Josephine) occasionally with to dine dine occasionally used to Bonaparte used Bonaparte He the disi1. dish' He created the who created not Dunant Dunant who was not maintains that it it was main tains that date recent date more recent is of of a a more assures us that chicken Marertgo is of the end end of home nearing the in Talleyrand's home served in and was was served and guests, entranced dish, the dish. entranced with the life. When Talleyrand's life. When his guests, Talleyrand's 'To win win declared' 'To Talleyrand declared. recipe, Talleyrand for the the recipe, him for begged him begged in e.,.;tremis, extremis, sacrifice, in had to to sacrifice, Bonaparte had Marengo, Bonaparte victory at at Marengo, victory tomato recipe, the the toma of this this recipe, make a a success success of to make Desaix; to his friend friend Desaix; his to These two two moment. These very last last moment. the very at the sacrificed at must be be sacrificed must name hence the the name in common, common, hence gestures have have something something in gestures poulet Marengo'. paulel at concoctedat dish was was l,oncocted that this this dish think ~hat who ~hink Thereare are a a few who There in Algeria. Marengo in at Marengo later date. date, at an even even later an in theSavoy Savoy in at the was working at he was while he It was was while Mtba -- It Melba p?che his celebrated celebrated pche invented his Escoffier invented London, that that Escoffier Melba Nelly Melba Dame Nelly singer Dame Australian singer famous Australian Melba for the the famous given by dinner given by at aa dinner (who loved flrstserved servedat was first It was her food). food). Ir loved her (who triumph !il in singer's Iriumph the singer's to celebrate celebrate the of Orlans Orl6ans to the Duke Duke of the ice, swan of of ice. dish of of aaswan up aa dish conjured up Escoffier conjured Lohengrin. Escoffier Lohengrin. vanilla bed of of vanilia resting on onaa bed and resting peacheson its wings wings and on its bearing peaches the sprinkled the andsprink1ed swan and theswan heomitted omitted the Later he cream ice. Later cream syrup. peaches with with raspberry raspberry syrup. peaches preserves. Once the only only (Ala) Once the Cherry preserves. la) -- Cherry Montmorency ( Montmorency practically 'Montmorency' fresh, practically type, aafresh, the'Mon wasthe variety used used was tmorency' type, variety from hadbeen been brought brought from saidhad which it itwas was said cherry which unsweetened cherry unsweetened Asia bv Lucullus. Asia preserves otherpreserves andother marmalade and Orleans (A ta) - Quince marn1aJade de Monseigneur de commemorate Monseigneur tocommemorate named thus to have been been named have greatlove loveof offood. food. ofOrlans', Orl6ans', great Bishop of Jarente's,Bishop Jarente's, the inthe AJesuit Jesuit born born in Fabri) - - A distortion Fabri) PireFaby Faby(by Pre Oydistortion
393 393

restaurant chefs chefs around around 1910. 1910. Taken used by by restaurant used Dictionnaire of of Gaston Gaston Esnault). Esnault). Dictionnaire

from the the

- Information Information of of the the origin of certain certain -

FRENCH CULINARY CULINARY NAMES. NAMES. APPELLATIONS APPELLATIONS CULINAIRES CULINAIRES FRENCH culinary names names is is scattered throughout throughout this this volume. volume. Here Here are are a a few few more. more. scattered list is is far from from complete, and and even even the the facts given here here The list may be be far far from from exact exact since most most of of it il is based based on hearsay. hearsay. may Curnonsky, for instance, had had enormous enormous difficulty difficulty in in finally finally Curnonsky, proving that homard homard d I'amdricaine l'amricaine (and (and not not d I'armoricaine) l'armoricaine) was created by the the chef chef Pierre Fraysse Fraysse (native (native of of Sdte) Ste) for was his restaurant restaurant called called Peter's, Peter 's, in Paris, Paris, on on his his return from his the other hand, it is still a a mystery who the America. On the whom a maitre matre d'hitel d'hlel (from (from Paris or MonteSuzette was to whom Suzette crpes. And was she really dining dining with Carlo?) dedicated the crOpes. of Wales Wales when wh en they were created for her? the Prince of a few more culinary terms: Here then are a Abrants - The governor governor of of Paris, Junot, duc d'Abrantds, d'Abrants, Abrantts

of his time. This was Richard (who had one of of the best chefs of has a variety of chafing dish called after him). him). He created a master. a tribute to his master' Ia d'Abrants d'Abranl2s as a d la number of dishes of the Cafe chef of Adolphe Dugl6r6, Duglr, then then head head chef the Caf Anna - Adolphe famous courtesan Anglais, invented Anna potatoes for the the famolis Anglais, Anna Deslions. Anna called were so called (A la calves' sweetbreads so d) Artois ( ta d') - The calves' Charles X. invented by the Count of Artois, future future Charles Brillat-Savarin's Aurore Christian name of Brillat-Savarin's the Christian - This was the gofit dedidedidu got mother, Physiologie du author of Physiologie the author to whom whom the mother, to cated sorne some recipes. Restauration period of of the the Restauration Bagration the period During the Bagration - During for this this epoch (and what (Restoration) (Restoration) (and suitable name for what more suitable when French !), the Princess Bagration at its peak !), was at French cuisine was her chef. chef' as her had CarOme as than Marie-Antoine Carme had none none other other than done to to had done he had her, as as he He to her, dishes to certain dishes He dedicated dedicated certain Talleyrand. please the the to please loved to de Pompadour Pompadour loved Madame de Bellevue - Madame his foreforeof rus palate than that that of finer one one than palate of it was was a a finer XV; it of Louis Louis XV; Bellevue. Sorne Some bear, of Bellevue. chdteau of owned the chteau She owned Louis XIV. XIV. She bear, Louis chdteau; the chteau; of after the were called called after devised were recipes she she devised the recipes of the sorne herself. some after after herself. for dishes dishes Bndictine, Name for carm6lite -- Name B6nedicting chartrcuse, carmlite cell. prepared in aa monastic monastic cell. have been been in prepared as they would have as they mass a mass Partridge inside a are cooked cooked inside pheasant, for for example, example, are or pheasant, Partridge or paper. Recipes Recipes of in paper. herbs, or even wrapped in or herbs, of vegetable or headings. the "n'nrt""i,,ltp appropriate !l',-,a'':'llJ,'''''. under the are given under la young rabbits rabbits d la Berry (A la) h) -- The dish of fillets of young Duchess Berry its creation greedy and scandalous Duchess the greedy and scandalous to the Beny owes owesits creation to of Regent. of the the Regent. daughter of favourite daughter of Berry, Berry, favourite Bourdaloue shop, at the the shop, (A la) of aa pdtissier at Invention of ta) -- Invention Bonrdaloue ( la rue in rue situated in which was was (and still is) situated la Belle Belle Epoque which original its original by its specialities The "I.J\" Bourdaloue, .... '.~""''-''' devised by Bourdaloue, Paris. The owner there today. today. sold there are still still sold owner are Bresolles valet by the the valet the battlefield battlefield by on the invented on Ragofit invented Bresolles -- Ragot of War. Years' War. Seven Years' the Seven during the Brezolles during Marquis of of Brezolles the Marquis of the Cardinal man if if ever ever discerning man Mazarin,aadiscerning It was was Mazarin, ta) -- Il Cardinal ( G la) there us named. named. thus thedishes dishes th inspired the was one, one, who who inspired there was (and preparations (and Chantilly given to of pn:parat:i0l1s number of to aa number Name given Chantilly -- Name in he when he name) by Vatel, when particular to of this this name) cream of to the the cream in particular was household. to the theCond Cond6 household. masterchef chef to was master pois petits pois years,the Clamart great many the petits (A la) many years, For aagreat ta) -- For Clamsrt ( ea ten in from the the came from particularly at at Court, Court, came and particularly in Paris, Paris, and eaten market suburbs. in the gardens of thesuburbs. ofClamart Clamart in market gardens

FRIANDISE
(mentioned by diocese of of Belley Belley (mentioned by Brillat-Savarin) Brillat-Savarin) who was who was diocese particularly fond (warblers), He fond of of becfigues becfigues (warblers). great Hewas wasaagreat particularly gourmet. gourmet. (A la) gourmandise of Reine ( h) -- The Thegourmandise gave ofMarie Marie Leczinska Leczinska gave Reine birth to to aa whole (vol-au-vent, chicken, whole host host of of recipes recipes(vol-au-vent, chicken, birth consomm6s) aIl all with with the the na name lareine. reine. consomms) me itla potage But the the creator creator of of potage la reine reine was dla was Margot, Margot, the thefirst first But wife of Henry IV. of Henry IV. wife (A la) Robert ( la) -- The Thesauce saue Robert Roberl which which Rabelais Rabelais made made Robert such a a fuss fuss about about was, was, it it seems, seems, invented invented by by Robert, Robert, chef chef to to such the Abbot Abbot of of Saint-Germain-des-Prs Saint-Germain-des-Pres in in the the Middle Middle Ages. Ages. the Ought we really to Salmis -- Ought to attribute we really attribute the the salmis salmis de de bcasse bicasse Salmis (salmis of of woodcock) woodcock) to to the the Prince Prince of of Salm, Salm, who who used used to to (salmis lodge in in what what is is now now the the Palais Palais de la Lgion fu la Ldgion d'honneur? d'honneur? No. No. lodge Salmis is is aa Gascon Gascon ellipsis ellipsis of of two two Latin Latin words: words: salsa salsa Salmis (feminine of of salsus, salsus, which which means means salted salted and and is root of of the is the the root the (feminine 'sauce') and word 'sauce') (feminine of and mista participle mista (feminine past participle of mistus, mistus, past word of misceo which means misceo which means 'mixed 'mixed up') up') 50 so the the exact exact definition definition of of of salmis is 'mixed up is a a 'mixed up sauce'. sauce'. salmis Soubise ( ta) -- Sauce Sauce invented invented by by Constant, head chef Constant, head chef of of Soubise 1A la) the Soubise Soubise household. household. the (A la) Villeroy ( ta) Chickens d la la Villeroy Villeroy are are attributed attributed to to Villeroy - Chickens the Marshal Marshal of of Luxemburg, Luxemburg, Duchess Duchess of of Villeroy. Villeroy. the (A la) Xavier ( ta) Soup invented invented by by Louis Louis Stanislas Stanislas Xavier Xavier of of Xavier - Soup France, Count Count of of Provence, Provence, the the future future Louis Louis XVIII. XVIIL France, FRIANDISE French word word for for a a delicacy delicacy wh when referring to to FRIANDISE en referring - French pdtis s erie or or sweetmeats. ptisserie This word word is is often often used used to to describe describe iced iced petits fours. This fours.
(topside) of FRICANDEAU Rump (topside) of veal. veal. Also Also describes describes a FRICANDEAU a - Rump (noix de dish made made of loin loin of veal veal (noix de vel1u) veau) larded, larded, braised, braised, or or (see VEAL, VEAL, Noix Noix de de veau). roasted (see to slices slices or or fillets of The name is also applied to of fish, fish, mainly mainly (tuna fish), those sturgeon and and fresh fresh tunny tunny (tuna those of sturgeon fish), braised braised in in a a fish stock. fish FRICASSEE - In modern French usage, usage, the FRICASSE fricasse wordy'icassie the word applies almost exclusively to a a method of preparing poultry poultry applies in a white sauce. In earlier times denoted various times the the term denoted various kinds kinds of of stew stew made with white or brown stock, not only from poultry but but from meat, fish and vegetables. vegetables. A A fricassde fricasse of poultry is is prepared in me in very much much the the sa same way way as a blanquette blanquelle (q.v.), a dish usually made with veal veal or lamb. Fricass6e Fricasse of of chicken chicken i la la berrichonne. berrichonne. FRICASSE r'ntcassfr DE ne poul,Er (9 oz.) POULET A r,l LA nennrcHoNNE BERRICHONNE - Brown in butter 250 g. (9 250 g. new carrots, whole if they they are small, quartered if they new carrots, are small, they are are large. Remove them them from the the pan and brown the tbe pieces pieces of a jointed Add,2+ dl. (scant I pint, jointed chicken in the same butter. Add generous generous cup) boiling boiling water water or white stock, the car rots and carrots a bunch bunch of mixed mixed herbs. herbs. Season. Season . Cover Coyer and and cook cook for for 30 minutes. minutes. Pour off the the chicken chicken stock, add add to it 5 tablespoons (6 Pour tablespoons) tablespoons)cream egg yolks with a a small pinch of cream and 2 egg fine fine sugar sugar and and I 1 tablespoon tablespoon vinegar. vinegar. Mix well well and pour the sauce over over the the chicken. chicken. sauce Warm the the chicken chicken in in the the sauce sauce without without bringing bringing it to the Warm boil. boil. Fricasse p6rigourdine prigourdine - Name Name given given in P6rigord Prigord to the the Fricassee vegetable5 of of a a pot-au-feu. pot-au-feu. Before Before this trus is is quite quite cooked, the vegetables drained, sliced, sliced, browned browned in butter butter vegetables are are removed, removed, drained, vegetables or oil, oil, sprinkled sprinkled with with flour, flour, moistened moistened with with a little stock, or put back back in in the the pot-au-fea pot-au-feu to to finish finish cooking. cooking. and put and The same same name nameis is given given to to a a mixture mixture of ofaromatic vegetables The aromatic vegetables cooked in in butter butter or or oil oil with with garlic garlic and and ham. ham. This This fricassde fricasse cooked various soups. soups. is used used in in various is ancientNorman Norman faim-valle whichmeant ancient meantfaim decheval, or cheval,or faim-vallewhich faimde sudden hunger. hunger. aasudden

FRINOT - -See SeeCHEESE. CHEESE. FRINOT FRITOT - -Type Typeof offritter fritter made madewith piecesof FRITOT poultry, withsmaU smallpieces ofpoultry, lamb or orveal vealsweetbreads, sweetbreads, brains, lamb brains,or heads. orcalves' calves'heads. juice piecesof Soak the thepieces Soak ofmeat meatfor for30 30minutes minutesin inoil, oil,lemon lemon juice (or vinegar), vinegar),and (or and mixed mixedchopped choppedherbs. herbs. Dip Dipin inaalight lightbatter batter fryin andfry indeep deepfat. fat. and Drain the the fritters. fritters. Season garnishwith Drain Seasonwith with salt saltand andgarnish with parsleyand fried parsley quarteredlemons. fried andquartered lemons.Serve Servewith withaasauce, sauce, Tomato. usually Tomato. usually A number number of given under A of recipes recipesare aregiven underthe theheading headingFritot Fritot in in (seeHORSthe the section section devoted devoted to to Hot Hot hors-d'uvre hors-d'euvre (see HORSD'(EUVRE). D'UVRE). piecesofmeat Small Small pieces poultry prepared ofmeat and prepareddla andpoultry laVilleroi Villeroiare are alsocalledfritots. called, fritots. also

FRITTER. BEIGNET FRITTER. BErcNEr - - Food Fooddipped dipped in in batter batter and andflied fried in in smoking-hot, deep (lard, oil, smoking-hot, deep fat fat(lard, oil, clarified clarified butter, butter, or orvegetable vegotable fat).The The batter fat). batter for for coating coating varies varies according according to tothe the nature natureof of (See BATTER.) the the food. food. (See BATTER.) Another variety variety of Another of fritter fritter is is made paste like made of of aa paste like chou chou pasteand paste and called called souffl petsde souffi6 fritters fritters or or pets de nonne. nonne. A A third third variety variety is made ofyeast is made of yeast dough, dough, similar similar to to brioche brioche (soe Viennafritters dough dough (see Viennafritters below). below). Cream Cream fritters fritters and and fritters fritters made (see made of of waffle waffie batter batter (see WAFFLE), WAFFLE), can can be (q.v.) for be used like croustades used like croustades (q.v.) garnishes. for garnishes.
FRITTERS FRITTERS FOR FOR HORS-D'UVRE HORS-D'(EUVRE AND AND SMALL SMALL ENTRES. ENTREES. BIEGNETS BIEGNETS POUR PoUR HORS HoRs D'oUVRE D'oGUVRE ET ET PETITES PETITES ENTRES eNrn6ns -- These These fritters, fritters, the the recipes recipes for for which given which are are given below, below, should should be be served with tomato served with tomato or or other othersauce. sauce.

2t

FOllers Fritters

FRINGALE (Hunger (Hunger pang) pang) - This This word word comes cornes from from the the FRINGALE

Anchovy Anchovy fritters 1. I. BEIGNETS nnrcxsrs D'ANCHOIS D'ANcHors Trim and and desalt desalt - Trim anchovy fillets. fillets. Spread Spread them them on on one one side side with with hard-boiled hard-boiled egg rubbed through egg yolks rubbed through a a sieve sieve and and mixed mixed with with a a little little butter and parsIey. Roll butter and chopped parsley. Roll them them up, up, dip dip in in a a light light deep-fry. Garnish with fried batter, and deep-fry. parsley. Garnish with fried parsley. II. BEIGNETS Anchovy fritters fritters II. Archovy ssrcxnrs D'ANCHOIS D'ANcHors Desalt, trim, trim, - Desalt, and dry dry anchovy anchovy fillets. fillets. Sandwich them, two two by two, with and Sandwich them, by two, with pounded fish fish forcemeat forcemeat flavoured flavoured with with anchovy finely pounded finely anchovy pure and mixed with a little chopped parsley. Dip pur6e and mixed with a little chopped parsley. Dip into into batter and and deep-fry. deep-fry. batter Artichoke fritters. fritters. BETcNETS BEIGNETS D'ARrrcHAUTs D'ARTICHAUTS - See Artichoke HORS- See HORSD'UVRE, Hot Hot hors-d'Guyre. hors-d'uvre. D'(EUVRE, BEIGNETS D'AUBERGlNES Peel the Aubergine fritters. Aubergine fritters. BErcNErs D',q.uBERcrNrs - Peel the cut into into slices, slices, and and marinate marinate for for 1 hour in in oil, oil, aubergines, cut aubergines, I hour lemon juice, juice, chopped chopped parsley, parsley, salt salt and and pepper. pepper. Dip Dip in in batter batter lemon and deep-fry. deep-fry. and

394 394

FRITTER FRITTER
divide div ide into into small small pieces. pieces . Roll Roll into into balls' balls. Dip Dip in in batter batter and deep-fry. deep-fry. D'oEUFs A I-A DUxELLES Egg Eggfritters frittersila laduxelles. duxeUes. BEIGNETs BEIGNETS D'OEUFS LA DUXELLESI teaCut Cut hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs eggs into into slices. slices. Spread Spread them them with with 1 teatwo. Dip spoon spoon duxelles duxelles (q.v.). (q.v .). Sandwich Sandwich them, them, two two by by two. Dip them them in in batter batter and and deep-frY. deep-fry. D'oEUFs A I-.1 Rnnts Egg la la reine. reine. BEIcNETs BEIGNETS D'OEUFS LA REINE Egg fritters fritters ir omelette. Make a flat, thin Make a fiat, thin omelette. Allow Allow it it to to cool, cool, and and then then cut cut it it lozenge-shaped pieces. into square or or .Iozenge-shaped pieces. Put Put I1 tablespoon tablespoon into square (see chicken chicken pur6e pure bound bound with with thick thick Veloutt Velout sauce sauce (see SAUCE) SAUCE) mixed mixed with with chopped chopped truffies trufHes on on each each piece. piece. Sandwich Sandwich the the pieces, pieces, dip dip in in batter batter and and deeP-frY. deep-fry. PolssoNs DE netcNnrs fish). FiS Fish fritten fritters (pickled (pickled or or smoked smoked fish). BEIGNETS DE POISSONS Ir.r.l,RINEs, MARINS, rurraf,s FUMS - Prepare Prepare as as described described for for Anchovy Anchovy fritters fritters as 1L 1/. Fritters Fritters can can be be made made of of different different kinds kinds of of fish, fish, such such as salmon, smoked oil, in sardines eel, smoked fillets, herring herring fiUets, smoked eel, sardines in oil, smoked salmon, tunny tunny in in oil, oil, etc. etc. DE PoISSoNs, Fislr, Fish, shelffish, shellfish, and and seafood seafood fritters. fritters. BEIGNETS BEIGNETS DE POISSONS, MER - Recipes for DE FRUITS coQLnLLAGEs, cEs, cnusrn CRUSTACS, COQUILLAGES, FRUITS DE MER - Recipes for fish fritters various various kinds kinds of offish fritters will will be be found found under under the the heading heading HORS-D'(EUVRE, HORS-D'UVRE, Hot Hot hors-d'euvre. hors-d'uvre. DE FoIE GRAs A Foie Foie gras gras lritters fritters i I'ancienne. l'ancienne. BEIGNETS BEIGNETS DE FOIE GRAS pancakes. Spread unsweetened thin Make L'ANCIEN].iE L'ANCIENNE - Make thin unsweetened pancakes. Spread diced truffies (see PURE) PUREE) mixed gras purie with Foie mixed with with diced trufHes with Foie gras pure (see scrolls. and and flavoured flavoured with with brandy. brandy. Roll Roll the the pancake pancake into into scrolls. deep-fry' and deep-fry. light batter pieces. Dip Dip in 2 or 3 pieces. or 3 Cut these Cut these into into 2 in light batter and DE FoIE GRAS AUX BEIGNETS DE fritters. BEIGNETS gras and and truffie Foie gras FOIE GRAS AUX Foie truffle fritters. gras and and (q.v.) of cooked foie of cooked salpicon (q.v.) a salpicon Prepare a rnurrps -- Prepare foie gras TRUFFES Madeira-flavoured concentrated' Madeira-ftavoured with concentrated, blended with truffies, blended trufHes, into Divide into to cool. cool. Divide Allow to (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Allow sauce (see Demi-glace sauce Demi-glace very a pig's or caul piece of in a each pieces wrap and small small pieces and wrap each in a piece of pig's caul or a very Dip water. Dip in cold cold water. previously soaked soaked in pork, previously salt pork, sfice of of salt thin sUce thin (see sauce (see Pdrigueux semee with Prigueux Serve with deep-fry. Serve and deep-fry. in batter batter and in sAUCE). SAUCE). DE ToPINAMBoURS BEIGNETS DE fritters. BEIGNETS artichoke fritters. Jerusalem artichoke Jerusalem TOPINAMBOURSdeep-fry. and deep-fry. batter, and in batter, dip in marinate, Cook, marina Cook, te, dip PrevIANDES -- PreDE VIANDES DE SALPICONS sALPIcoNS DE BEIGNETS DE fritters. BEIGNETS Meat fritters. Meat or brown, brown, white or a sauce, sauce, white with a blend with and blend pare a salpicon and a meat meat salpicon pare (cooked meat leftmeat leftchosen (cooked meat chosen of meat the type type of on the depending on depending diced poultry). Add Add diced pork, veal, veal, poultry). mutton, pork, beef, mutton, lamb, beef, oults -- lamb, overs allow sheet and and allow metal sheet on a a metal Spread on mushrooms. Spread and mushrooms. truffies and trufHes dip ball, dip into aa ball, pieces, roll roll each each into small pieces, Divide into into small to cool. cool. Divide to deep-fry. and deep-fry in batter batter and . in vEAU- DE VEAU DE FRAISE FRAISE DE BEIGNETS DE fritters. BEIGNETS mesentery fritters. Calf's mesentery Calf's (q.v.), drain, court'bouillon (q.v in aa court-bouillon mesentery in the calf's calf's mesentery Cook the Cook .), drain, prepare like llke Brainfritters. Brain fritters. and prepare marinate, dry, marina dry, te, and Prepare aa DE CHAMPIGNONS cHAMPIGNoNS- - Prepare BEIGNETs DE fritters. BEIGNETS Mushroom fritters. Mushroom Blend if desired. desired.Blend ham if diced barn adding diced mushrooms, adding of mushrooms, salpiconof salpicon (see SAUCE), small into small divide SAUCE), div sauce(see Btchamel sauce with Bchamel ide nto with deep-fry. anddeep-fry. batter, and dip in in batter, pieces, roll roll into into balls, balls, dip pieces, See OYSTERS. OYSTERS. normande -- See lanormande fritters I la Oyster fritters Oyster Bind'a rERRE - - Bind DEltRRE DEPOMMES PoMMES DE sstcNsrs DE friffersJ.I.BEIGNETS Potato fritters Potato a (see sauce(see Bdchamel sauce potatoes with with Bchamel of boiled boiled potatoes salpicon of salpicon into Divide cold. leave until and dishand leave until cold. Divide into onaadish Spread on SAUCE).Spread SAUCE). and light batter batterand inaalight Dip in into balls. balls. Dip piecesand shapeinto andshape smallpieces small indeep-fat. deep-fat. fryin fry or Grateor DE rERRE- -Grate DEPOMMES PoMMEsDE srlcNnrsDE II.BEIG~ETS frittersII. Potatofritters Potato TERRE pepper' salt,pepper, withsalt, season with andseason well,and potatoes,dry dryweIl, rawpotatoes, minceraw mince small yolks.Divide Divide into intosmall eggyolks. withegg gratednutmeg. Bindwith nutmeg. Bind andgrated and deep-fry' anddeep-fry batter, and lightbatter, pieces,dip dipin inaalight pieces, . salsify, thesalsify, Cookthe DE sALsIFIs- - Cook BEIGNETs DE fritters.BEIGNETS Salsifr fritters. SALSIFIS Salsify deep-fry. anddeep-fry inbatter, batter,and dipin pieces,marina marinate, littlepieces, cutinto intolittle te, dip . cut Asfor forSpinachfrillers Spinach fritters D'osEILI-E- -As BEIGNETs fritters.BEIGNETS Sorrelfritters. D'OSEILLE Sorre) (seebelow). below). (see spinach Steep o'6plN.rrnos - - Steep sntcl.InrsD'PINARDS frittersI.I.BEIGNETS Spinachfritters spinach Spinach juice,salt, pepper. andpepper. salt, lemonjuice, oil,lemon minutes few leavesfor fora a ininoil, and leaves few minutes batter, inlight lightbatter, dipthem themin time,dip ata a leaves togetherat fourleaves Pressfour time, Press together deep-fry. anddeep-fry. and
and 395 395

Moulds Mould, for for fritters: rrilters: LeJi to right: right.' mushroom, musluoom, star, Sla r. boat, boal. heart, rose rose Left (Dehillerin. Phot. I'arousse') Larousse) Dehillerin. Phot \

HORS-D'(EUVRE, Beeffritters. BEIGNETS DE BoEUFBOEUF- See HORS-D'UVRE, fritters. BEIGNETs Beef Hot hors-d'euvre. hors-d'uvre. cERVELLES DE CERVELLES BEIGNETS DE (lanrb's or Brain fritters or calf's). calf's). BEIGNETS fritters (Jamb's (q.v.)' the brains in court-bouillon (q.v.). D ' AGNEAU , DE VEAU vEAU D'AGNEAU. - Cook th~ juice, and in oil, oil, lemon juice, marinate in Cut into and mannate small slices slices and into small deep-fry. and deep-fry. chopped in batter batter and parsley. Dip in chopped parsley. DE BRUXELLESBRUXELLES DE CHOUX cHollx DE BEIGNETS DE Brussels sprout fritters. BEIGNETS dip in in drain, dip water, drain, in salted salted water, Half-cook, Brussels sprouts in Brussels sprouts juice, and and lemon juice, oil, lemon in oil, cold marinate in and marinate dry, and water, dry, cold water, deep-fry' chopped and deep-fry. parsley. Dip in batter and Dip in chopped parsley. DE DE CARDONS, cARDoNS, DE Cardoon BEIGNETS DE fritters. BEIGNETS chard fritters. or chard Cardoon or preand premarinated cooked, marina CARDES ted and chards cooked, or chards cARDEs -- Cardoons Cardoons or pared for Aubergine Aubergine fritters pared as described for as described fritters'. DE CHOUXcHouxBEIGNETS DE fritters. BEIGNETS Cauliflower broccoli fritters. or broccoli Cauliflower or marinated, flowerets, marinated, Divided into into ftowerets, FLEURS, DE BROCOLIS BRocoLIs -- Divided FLEURS, DE (see below). below). and fritlers (see Mushroomfritters for Mushroom as for and cooked cooked as and marinate, Cook, marina te, and Celery DE CELERI cELERI -- Cook, BEIGNETs DE fritters. BEIGNETS Celery fritters. or Celeriac or Aubergine fritters. prepare for Aubergine prepare as described for as described fritters- Celeriac ordinary be used. used. may be celery may ordinary celery leftChicken DE VOLAILLE voLAILLE -- Chic ken leftChicken BEIGNETs DE fritters. BEIGNETS Chicken fritters. Marinate slices. Marinate small slices. cut into into small overs, and cut poached or or braised braised and overs, poached and juice, and batter and in batter parsley. Dip Dip in in chopped parsley. and chopped lemon juice, in oil, oil, lemon deep-fry. deep-fry. Cut DEPOULETS PouLErs - - Cut Chicken DE FOIES FoIEsDE BElcNErsDE fritters. BEIGNETS liver fritters. Chicken Iiver add (q.v.), inbutter, butter,add the .), brown briskly in brown bnskly salpicon (q.v livers into into aasalpicon the Iivers with blend with and blend diced in butter, butter, and tossed in also tossed mushrooms,also diced musbrooms, is mixture is (seeSAUCE). the mixture When the thick SAUCE). When sauce (see Bichamel sauce thick Bchamel balls. piecesand rollinto into balls. cold, androll small pieces into small cold, divide divide into Dip deeP-frY. anddeep-fry. in batter batter and Dip in chicory, Braisetbe thechicory, Chicory D'ENDIVES - - Braise BEIcNETsD'ENDIVES fritters. BEIGNETS Chicory fritters. minutes for30 30minutes dry , and Marinate for lengthways.Marinate intwo two lengthways. andcut cut in dryweil well, juice,and batterand and inbatter parsley' Dip Dipin in choppedparsley. andchopped lemonjuice, inoil, oil,lemon deep-fry. deep-fry. couRGErrES - Courgette DECOURGETTES (zucchini) fritters. BEIGNETS DE fritters.BEIGNETS Courgette (zucchini) As Aubergine fritters. AsAubergine fritters. (q.v.) Egg salpicon (q.v.) Preparea asalpicon D'oEUFs- -Prepare BEIcNETS D'OEUFS fritters. BEIGNETS Eggfritters. (andlean ham, leanbarn, of truffies(and andtruffies mushrooms,and hard-boiled eggs, eggs,mushrooms, ofhard-boiled orthick thick sauce,or if Bichamelsauce, thickBchamel withthick blendwith if liked) liked)and andblend Spread Velout used.Spread beingused. (seSAUCE) meatisisbeing ifmeat SAUCE) if Veloutesauce sauce(see then tocool, cool,then the allowititto andallow sheetand metalsbeet ona ametal themixture mixtureon

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prepare aa Spinachfritters frittersn. II. BEIGNETS srrcNersD'PINARDS o'6prN.e,nos - - Prepare Spinach (seeFORCEMEA FORCEMEAT) putaa thin andput Quenelle forcemeat thin Quenelle T) and forcemeat (see layer on on large large spinach spinach leaves, leaves, previously previously steeped steepedin layer in oil, oil, juice, salt, lemon juice, pepper. Roll salt,and andpepper. Roll up, up, dip dip in in batter, batter, and lemon and deep-fry. deep-fry. Sweetbread fritters (lamb's or fritters (Iamb's orcalf's). calf's). BEIGNETS BETcNETsDE DERIS Sweetbread Rrs D'AGNEAU. DE DE VEAU vEAU- - Braise Braise the thesweetbreads sweetbreadsin D'AGNEAU. inaa courtcourtbouillon. Marinate Marinate them juice, them for for30 30minutes minutes in in oil, oil, lemon lemon juice, houillon. and chopped parsley. Dip chopped parsley. Dip in in batter batter and anddeep-fry. deep-fry. and Tomato fritters. fritters. BEIGNETS BETcNETs DE DETOMATES ToMATEsCut tomatoes tomatoesinto Tomato - Cut into quarters, remove remove seeds, seeds, marinate, marinate, dip dip in in batter, batter, deep-fry. quarters, deep-fry. Tongue fritters (ox or fritters (ox or calf's). calf's). ,BEIGNETS BETcNETS DE Tongue DE LANGUE LANGUE DE DE BoEUF, DE DE VEAU vEAU -- Cook Cook and and cool cool the the tongue tongue and BOEUF, and cut cut into into small slices. slices. Marinate, Marinate, dip dip in in batter, batter, and and deep-fry. deep-fry. small Trufre fritters. fritters. BEIGNETS BErcNErs DE DETRUFFES TRUFFES -- Cut Truffle Cut raw raw truffles truffies into into thick slices slices and and steep steep in in brandy brandy with pepper, and thick with salt, salt, pepper, and spices. Dip Dip in in batter batter and and deep-fry. deep-fry. spices. Vegetable-marrow (squash) (squash) fritters fritters- See Vegetable-marrow See HORSHORSD'(EUVRE. Hot Hot hors-d'uvre. hors-d'cuvre. D'UVRE, Vine tendril tendril fritters. fritters. BEIGNETS BErcNErs DE DE VRILLES vRrLLEs DE Vine DE VIGNE vrcNn -- Steep Steep the tendrils tendrils in in oil, oil, lemon, lemon, salt, salt, and pepper. Taking and pepper. the Taking a a few few at at a time, time, dip dip in in ba batter and deep deep fry. fry. a tter and
(DESSERT) FRITTERS. SWEET (DESSERT) FRITTERS. BEIGNETS SWEET BEIGNETS D'ENTREMETSD'ENTREMETS _ Acacia blossom blossom fritters. fritters. BEIGNETS BETcNETS D'ACACIA D'AcACrA -- Cut Acacia Cut off off the the stalks, sprinkle sprinkle the the bunches bunches of of blossoms blossoms with pour stalks, with sugar, sugar, pour a !ittle little rum rum or or brandy, brandy, and and leave leave to over a to steep steep for for 30 30 minutes. minutes. Dip in batter batter and and fry fry in deep, deep, sizzling-hot sizzling-hot fat. Dip Drain, sprinkle fat. Drain, sprinkle with sugar and and serve serve on paper doyley. on a a paper doyley. with poMMEs - Core Apple fritters. fritters. BEIGNETS BETcNETS DE DE POMMES Apple the apples apples and and - Core the peel them. them. Cut Cut them them across across in in slices slices about peel about 5 5 mm. mm. (t $ inch) thick. Steep for for 30 minutes in thick. in brandy, kirsch or or rum. Drain, dip in in batter, batter, and and deep-fry. deep-fry. Drain, Drain, put put on dip on a a baking baking tray, fine sugar, sugar, and glaze in and glaze sprinkle with fine in a a very hot hot oyen. oven. Apricot fritters. BEIGNETS BETcNETS D'ABRICOTS D'ABFJcors -- Halve the apricots Apricot and steep in and liqueur. and in sugar and Finish cooking as as described described in in the the recipe Finish recipe for for Crystallised fruitfritters fruit fritters (see below). peel the Banana fritters. BETcNETS BEIGNETS DE DE BANANES - Peel the bananas and divide in half lengthways. Steep in sugar and and liqueur. Finish as Finish as described described in ir: the the recipe fruit recipe for for Crystallised fruit fritters (see below). Blossom Blossom and flower fritters. BETcNETS BEIGNETS DE FLEURS - Divide acacia, elder, eider, and marrow blossoms, blossoms, lilies and violets. violets, into bunches, bunches, or, depending on their nature, snip off stalks and separate into into petals. petaJs. Steep Steep in in sugar sugar and and liqueur liqueur for for 30 30 minutes, minutes, and and finish finish cooking as as describod described in the recipe for Acacia ssom frit ters. Acacia blo blossomfritters. Cherry Cherry fritters. BETcNETs BEIGNETS DE cERrsEs CERISES - Stone the cherries. cherries. Steep them them in in sugar sugar and und kirsch kirsch or cherry cherry brandy. brandy. Finish Finish as as described in the the recipe recipe for Fresh Fresh fruit fruit fritters fritters (see (see below). below). Cherry Cherry soufl6 souffl fritters. fritters. BETcNETS BEIGNETS sourrrns SOUFFLS AUx AUX cERrsES CERISES Make Make the the fritters fritters as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for Souffid Souffl fritters ,I 1 (see (see below). below). After After cooking, cooking, garnish garnish with with stoned stoned fritters cherries cherries cooked cooked in in syrup syrup combined combined with with a a little !ittle cherry cherry jam jam and and flavoured ftavoured with \Vith kirsch. kirsch. Cheshut Chestnut fritters. fritters. BETcNETS BEIGNETS DE DE MARRoNS MARRONS - prepare Prepare vanillavanillaflavoured Chestnut purie pure (see (see CHESTNUT). CHESTNUT). Taking Taking pieces pieces fiavoured Chestnut the of a a walnut, walnut, wrap wrap them them in in leaves leaves of of unleavened unleavened the size size of bread bread (Matzos) (Matzos) dippod dipped in in water. water. Dip Dip in in batter batter and and finish finish as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for Fresh Freshfruit fruit fritters fritters (see (see below). below). Cold Cold fritterg fritters, called ca lied Krapfuns. Krapfuns. BErcNErs BEIGNETS FRorDs, FROIDS, Drrs DITS KRArFUNS KRAPFUNS - Prepare Prepare and and deep-fry deep-fry the the fritters fritters as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for Viennafritters Vienna fritters (see (see below). below). As As soon soon as as they they are are cooked, cooked, drain drain them them and and drop drop into into a a hot, hot, light light syrup, syrup, flavoured ftavoured as as desired. desired. When Wh en thev they are are well weil steeped, steeped, strain strain and and serve serve cold. cold.
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La La marchande marchande de de beignets. beignets. Painting Painting by byGerard Gerard Dou Dou

prepare aa Custard Creant Creanr fritters. fritters. BEIGNETS BEIGNETs DE or CRME cnirr,m -- Prepare Custard cream MS). Spread (see CREA crecvn (see CREAMS). Spread on on aa buttered metal baking buttered metaJ baking sheet inch) thick. sheet in in a a layer layer 2 2 cm. cm.(! thick. Leave Leave to to cool. cool. Qinch) Dip Dip in in batter batter and and finish finish off off as as described described in in the the recipes recipes for f or Crystallisedfruitfritters C r y s t all is e d fru it fri t t er s or Fr e sh fr uit fr i t t e r s (see or Freshfruitfritters (see below). below). Cream Cream fritters fritten are are sometirnes sometimes coated coated with with egg egg and and breadbreadcrumbs crumbs before before frying. frying. In In that that case go into case they they go into the the category category of of croquettes. croquettes. They They are are also also called called fried fried creams. creams. Fritters Fritters la crole. i la creole. BEIGNETS BETcNETS A LA ra CROLE cnforr -- Slit Slit and and stone stone dates, dates, and and stuff stuff them them with with sweetened sweetened rice rice mixed mixed with with finely finely chopped chopped orange peel and orange peel and flavoured flavoured with with Curaao. Curagao. Wrap Wrap each each date date in in a a very very thin piece of thin piece Vienra fritter of Vienna fritter dough. dough. Proceed Proceed as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for Viennafritters Viennafritters (see below). Fritters prepare i la la Creppazi. Creppazi. BEIGNETS BETcNETs A LA r,c, CREPPAZI cREppAzr -- Prepare large, large, thin, sweet (see CRPE). sweet pancakes (see CREPE). Coat Coat with with a iigtrt a light layer of French pastry cream (see CREAMS) uearn (see CREAMS) ftavoured flavoured with with shed macaroons. kirsch and and mixed mixed with with cru crushed macaroons. Put the the pancakes pancakes on Put on top top of of each each other other until until the the layer layer is is about inch) thick. (* inch) about 5 5 mm mm (t thick. Cut (2-inch) square Cut into inro 5-cm. 5-cm. (2-inch) s[uare dip in batter and finish as described in the recipe for pieces, dip in batter and finish as described in the recipe for Freshfruitfritters Fresh (see below). below). fruit fritters (see Crystallised fritters. BETcNETs BEIGNETS DE DE FRUITS Crystallised fruit fruit fritters. FRUrrs GLACS crlcfs -Cut up up peeled peeled apricots, apricots, pineapple, peaches, pears, Cut pineapple, peaches, pears, and and apples, into into slices. apples, slices. with sugar, sugar, sprinkle sprinkle with with brandy, brandy, kirsch, kirsch, rum, rum, or Dust with or other liqueur, liqueur, and and leave leave to to steep steep for for 30 30 minutes. minutes. Drain, Drain, any other in batter, balter, and and deep-fry deep-fry in in smoking-hot smoking-hot fat. fat. dry, dip in Drain, dry dry in a a cloth, cloth, arrange arrange on on a a baking baking tray, tray, sprinkle Drain, sprinkle with fine fine sugar, sugar, and either in in a a very very hot hot oven oyen or or under under with glaze either and glaze grill. a grill. Currant fritters. fritters. BETcNETS BEIGNETS DE DE cRosErLLEs GROSEILLES - As Strawberry Currant - As Sftawberry fritters (see (see below) below). fritters Date fritters. fritters. BETcNETs BEIGNETS DE DE DATTES DATTES - Stuff stoned dates dates Date stoned - Stuff with very very thick thick French French pastry pastry crecrn cream (see (see CREAMS), CREAMS), with flavoured with with kirsch kirsch or or some some other other liqueur. liqueur. flavoured Dip in in light light batter batter and and deep-dry. deep-dry. Drain Drain the the fritters fritters and and Dip dust with with fine fine sugar. sugar. dust Fig fritters. fritters. BETcNETS BEIGNETS DE DE FrcuES FIGUES - Peel Peel and and quarter quarter the the Fig -brandy figs. Steep Steep them them for for 30 30 minutes minutes in in brandy and sugar. sugar. Dip Dip figs. and in light light batter batter and and deep-fry. deep-fry. in Fresh fmit fruit fritters. fritters. BETcNETS BEIGNETS DE DE FRUITS FRUITS NON NON GLACS _ Fresh GLACES Use cherries, cherries, strawberries, strawberries, raspberries, raspberries, redcurrants, redcurrants, Use tangerines, and and oranges. oranges. Stone Stone and and hull huI! the the berries. berries, and and tangerines,

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divide the the oranges oranges and and tangerines tangerines into into segments. segments. divide Sprinkle with with sugar sugar and and leave leave to to steep steep in in liqueur liqueur for 30 Sprinkle minutes. Drain, Drain, dip dip in in batter, batter, and and deep-fry. deep-fry. Drain, Drain, dry, and minutes. sprinkle with with fine fine sugar. sugar. sprinkle Fruit jelly jelly fritters fritters I. J. nslcNnrs BEIGNETS DE DE MARMELAoTs MARMELADES - Spread Spread the the Fruit jelly in in a a thin thin layer layer on on a a moist moist baking baking sheet. Cool. Cut into jelly shapes and and finish finish as as described in in the recipe for Fresh Fresh fruit fruit shapes fritters. fritters. Fruit jelty jelly fritters fritters II. II. snIcNBrs BEIGNETS DE DE MARMELADES MARMELADES - Wrap Wrap the Fruit fruit jelly jelly in in pieces pieces of of unleavened unleavened bread bread (Matzos) soaked in fruit water. water. the recipe for Fresh Fresh fruit fruit fritters. fritters. Finish as as described described in the Finish Mont-Bry fritters. fritters. BEIGNETS BEIGNETS MoNT-BRY MONT-BRY - Prepare sweetenMont-Bry ed semolina semolina as as for for a a dessert dessert and and spread spread it on on a a buttered bu ttered ed metal sheet sheet in in a layer I 1 cm. $ (t inch) thick. metal Cool and and cut cut into into small small rectangles. rectangles. Coat Coat with with thick Cool apricot jam mixed mixed with with a fine salpicon of walnuts and and figs, fine salpicon apricot and flavoured fiavoured with with rum. rum. Dip in batter and and deep-fry. and Nanette fritters. fritters. BEIGNETS BEIGNETS NANETTE NANETTE - Cut a stale stale brioche Nanette into slices. slices. Spread Spread with French pastry pastry cream crecan (see CREAMS) with French into mixed with with a a salpicon salpicon of crystallisod crystallised fruit steeped in kirsch. steeped in mixed Sandwich the the slices slices and and steep steep in in kirsch. Sandwich Dip in in a a light light batter batter and in the recipe as described described in and finish as Dip Crystallisedfruit fritters or or Fresh Fresh fruit fruit fritters. fritters. for for Crystallised fruit fritters pcnes Peach fritters. fritters. BEIGNETS BEIGNETS on DE PCHES peaches ripe peaches Peach - Divide ripe in half, half, peel, peel, and with sugar rum, or kirsch, rum, and kirsch, sugar and sprinkle with and sprinkle in brandy. Leave to steep in a place for for 1 I hour. a cool cool place Leave to steep in brandy. Dry, dip dip in in batter, batter, and the fat. Drain the hot deep deep fat. fry in in very very hot and fry Dry, fritters, put put them them on baking tray, fine sugar, tray, sprinkle with fine a baking on a fritters, and hot oyen. glaze in oven. and glaze in a a hot Pear fritters. in described in as described DE POIRES PoIREs Proceed as BEIGNETs DE Pear fritters. BEIGNETS - Proceed Applefritters. the recipe the recipe for for Apple fritters. Pineapple the pineapple D'ANANAS -- Cut Cut the BEIGNETs D'ANANAS fritters. BEIGNETS Pineapple fritters. in slices, with sugar, sugar, and and half, sprinkle sprinkle with in half, slice in divide each in slices, divide each slice steep in liqueur. liqueur. steep in Finish for Crystallised Crystallised fruit recipe for in the the recipe Finish as described in as described fruit fritters. fritters. Plum greenhalved greenPRUNEs - Steep Steep halved DE PRUNES fritters. BEIGNETS BEIcNETs DE Plum fritters. gages and or rum, rum, and plums for kirsctt, brandy, brandy, or gages or I hour hour in in kirsch, for 1 or plums sugar. sugar. Drain, fat. fry in in deep deep fat. and fry batter, and dip in in batter, Drain, dip Drain glaze in tn a a sugar and and glaze with fine fine sugar Sprinkle with Drain the the fritters. fritters. Sprinkle hot glazing. prepared without without glazing. also be be prepared hot oyen. They may may also oven. They Plum PRUNES A DE PRUNES BEIGNETs DE I'agenaise. BEIGNETS fritters l'agenaise. Plum fritters L'AGENAISE - Soak greengages in and in liqueur liqueur and halved greengages stoned, halved L'AGENATSE - Soak stoned, sugar, fruit again, again, and and whole fruit to make make whole together to stick them them together sugar, stick coat puree. Dip fry plum pure. in batter, batter, fry Dip in coat with with kirsch-fiavoured kirsch-flavoured plmn in with fine fine sugar. sugar. fat, and and sprinkle sprinkle with in deep deep fat, Polenta sweetened DE POLENTA PoLENTA -- Using Using sweetened BEIcNETs DE fritters BEIGNETS Polenta fritters. polenta (see below). prepare as below). polenta cooked as Rice Rice fritters milk, prepare cooked in in milk, frilters (see Raspberry Remove DE FRAMBOISES FRAMBoISES - Remove BEIGNETS DE fritters. BEIGNETS Raspberry fritters. stems, little kirsch. kirsch. Drain, Drain, a little sprinkle with with a and sprinkle ligbtly, and stems, sugar sugar lightly, dip with Drain, sprinkle sprinkle with hot fat. fat. Drain, fry in in very very hot and fry dip in in batter, batter, and sugar, and serve. sugar, and serve. Rice rice, as sweetened rice, as DE RIZ Rz -- Prepare Prepare sweetened fritters BEIGNETS BEIGNETs DE Rice fritters. for tin, flat tin, on a a fiat layer on in aa thick thick layer Spread in for a a dessert dessert course. course. Spread and pieces. Dip and finish finish light batter batter and Dip in in light small pieces. into small and cool. cool. Cut Cut into off as described fritters. for Cream Creamfritters. recipe for the recipe in the offas describd in Rice DE RIZ Rtz FOURRS rounnfs BEIcNETs DE fillings. BEIGNETS various fillings. fritters with with various Rice fritters - Prepare preceding recipe, recipe, the preceding in the as described described in the fritters fritters as Prepare the filling jam, jelly jelly or fruit. of various various fruit. a salpicon salpicon of or a filling them them with with jam, Rice A LA CRME Prepare DE RIZ RIz cninre -- Prepare BEIGNETs DE fritters. BEIGNETS Rice cream cream fritters. sweetened leave to to flat tin, tin, and and leave layer on on aa fiat it in in aa layer rice, spread spread it sweetened rice, cool. (l| inches) pieces 4 in diameter. diameter. 4 cm. inches) in cm. (lt round pieces cool. Cut Cut into into round Sandwich rather layer of of aa rather together with with aa layer circlets together Sandwich these these circlets thick (see CREAMS). pastry cream ueern (see CREAMS). Frmch pastry thick French Dip andsprinkle sprinkle fat. Drain, Drain, and very hot hot fat. fry in in very Dip in in batter and fry batter and with sugar. with sugar.
sweetenSemolina fritters. BEIGNETs BEIGNETS DB DE sEMouLE SEMOULE - Prepare Prepare sweetenSemolina proceed as described in the recipe for Rice ed semolina and proceed

fritters. fritters.

Shrove-Tuesday fritters fritters (Alsatian (Alsatian cookery). cookery). BEIcNETS BEIGNETS DE ShroveTuesday of MARDI-GRAS - Prepare a a noodle paste with with the addition of MARDr-cRAs
(1 inch). inch). Cut into a thickness of 5 mm. mm. (t butter. Roll out to a fry in in sizzling sizzling oil, deep fry and deep cutter, and with a a pastry cutter, shapes with cinnamon. Sprinkle with sugar mixed with cinnamon. drain. Sprinkle

( I'arousse) Souffl fritters (Larousse) Souffi friuers

Souffl (or Pets BEIcNETS SOCFFLS sourrr6s nonne). BEIGNETS de nonne). I (or Peb de fritters 1 Soufl6 fritters quart) generous quart) (lt pints, pints, generous Mix 1 I litre litre (Il - Mix salt, water, lf teaspoons teaspoons salt, (7 oz., g. (7 cup) butter, butter, It scant cup) oz., scant water, 200 200 g. in aa and to the the boil, boil, in bring to and bring (4 oz., g, (4 cup) sugar sugar and oz., t and 100 100 g. * cup) (1 lb. 6 g. (lIb. 6 oz., oz., saucepan. 625 g. ua625 heat. Pour Pour in from the the heat. saucepan. Remove from 5t on saucepan back back on Put the the saucepan well. Put Mix weil. flour. Mix sieved fiour. 5f cups) cups) sieved the mixture until the the mixture spoon until a wooden wooden spoon with a hea! stirring stirring with the heat., cornes and becomes becomes the saucepan saucepan and sides of of the from the the sides away from comes away sJightly one at at aa 12 eggs, eggs, one heat and and add add 12 from heat Remove from slightly oily. oily. Remove time, vigorously. stirring vigorously. time, stirring Drop hot, but but paste,'one at into hot, timg into at a a time, of the the paste,one Drop spoonfuls spoonfuls of not temperagradually increase the temperaincrease the fat, then then gradually not boiling, deep fat, boiling, deep ture the fat. fat. ture of ofthe When the fat fat from the golden, remove them from remove them are golden, the fritters fritters are When the and in individual individual Fill as as indicated indicated in sugar. Fill fine sugar. with fine and sprinkle sprinkle with jams, etc. recipes, etc. creams, jams, various custards, custards, creams, with various recipes, with Souffl g' 250 g. Prepare 250 sourrrrs -- Prepare sslcNnrs SOUFFLS II. BEIGNETS fritters II. Soufl6 fritters (9 the Divide the (see DOUGH) sugar. Divide (9 oz.) paste (see without sugar. DOUGH) without Chou paste oz.) Chou paste after Drop one oneafter walnut. Drop portions the of aa smaIJ small walnut. size of paste into the size into portions the fat. not boiling boiling fat. hot but but not the other other into into hot Cook are crisp crisp fritters are the fritters paste has risen and and the has risen until the the paste Cook until on on aacloth, cloth, golden coloured. Drain well well on coloured. Drain and golden the outside outside and on the and and season. season. Strawberry strawHull the thestrawFRAIsEs - - Hull DE FRAISES BEIGNETs DE fritters. BEIGNETS Strawberry fntters. berries in the the asdescribed described in Finish as in liqueur. liqueur. Finish them in and steep steep them berries and recipe fruit fritters. for Fresh Freshfruit recipe for fritters. Stuffed rounnfs, BEIGNETs FOURRS, fritters. BEIGNETS srrprise fritters. fritterg called calledsurprise Shffed fritters, EN recipe in the therecipe asdescribed described in fritters as the fritters Prepare the EN SURPRISE suRpRISE -- Prepare for IL for Souffi Souffii fritters fritters II. Drain, usingaa fill them, them,using and fil! theside sideand sliton on the small slit makeaasmall Drain, make forcing-bag, (see CREAMS), pastry cream CREAMS), crecon(see French pastry with French forcing-bag, with jam, jarn,fruit puree or asindicated. indicated. salpicon, as orsalpicon, fruit pure Tangerine DEMANDARINES. MANDARINES, BEIGNETS DE fritters. BEIGNETS otange fritters. or orange Tangerine or D'ORANGES sections, intosections, oranges into ororanges thetangerines tangerines or Divide the D'oRANcns - - Divide trim asdescribed described finishas andfinish and liqueur liqueur and sugar and steep in insugar trim them, them,steep in fruit fritters. for Fresh Freshfruit recipefor in the therecipe fritters. Vienna vIENNoIs, BEIGNETS VIENNOIS, fritters. BEIGNETS Dauphine fritters. orDauphine Vienna fritters fritters or BEIGNETS (18oz., g.(18 4jcups) cups) oz.,4t 500g. Ingredients. 500 DAUrHINE - - Ingredients. BEIGNETs DAUPHINE sieved g. 20g. eggs,20 (7oz., g.(7 cup)butter, butter, 66eggs, scantcup) oz.,scant 200g. sieved Rour, flour,200 (t oz., 2 table(1,o2.,2 g.(1 table' 25g. yeast,2t salt,25 2tteaspoons teaspoons salt, o".,1I cake) cake)yeast, Goz., spoons) milk' (6 tablespoons, cup)milk. scant ] cup) tablespoons, scant dl. (6 sugar, 1I dl. spoons)sugar,
(PETS (rurs DE NoNNr) on NOl\'NE)

397 397

FRITTO-MISTO FRlTTO-MISTO
Method. Mix Mix the ingredients to paste as the ingredients to make make aa paste asdescribed described Melhod. in the the recipe recipe for forBrioche Brioche dough, (see DOUGH). dough, ordinary ordinary (see DOUGH). Roll Roll in pastry to out the the pastry (|-inch). Place to aa thickness thickness of ofj-cm. Place spoonfuls spoonfuls out i-cm. (k-inch). of the the filling filling indicated: indicated :cream, cream, custard, custard,salpicon salpicon of of fruit, fruit, etc., etc. , of regularly spaced spaced on pastry. Moisten on the the pastry. Moisten the the edges edges of of the the regularly pastry and and cover cover with piece of with aasecond pastry of second piece of rolled-out rolled-out pastry of pastry the same same size and thickness size and thickness as as the first. Stamp the firs!. Stamp out out the the fritters fritters the with aa round round cutter, (2 inches) cutter, about about 5 inches) in 5 cm. cm. (2 in dia diameter. Lay me ter. Lay with them on on a a baking baking tray tray covered covered with with a a c10th cloth sprinkled sprinkled with with them flour. Leave Leave to place for to rise rise in in a a warm warm place for 30 30 minutes. minutes. fiouL Drop the the fl'itters fritters into into very very hot hot deep deep fat fat and and cook cook until until they they Drop are weil golden colour. well done done and and acquire acquire a a golden colour. are Drain, and and sprinkle sprinkle with with fine fine sugar. sugar. Drain,

(Itelian cookery) FRITTO-MISTO (ItaJian cookery) -- ln In France Franoe this this dish dish is is FRITTO-MISTO 'friture called 'frilure d /'italienne'. I'italienne'. called prepared from It is pieces of is preparcd from pieces of ca calves' head; brain; brain; spinal spinal Il Ives' head; (of sheep bone-marrow (of sheep and and calves); calves); testicles; lambs' feet; testicles; lambs' feet; bone-marrow rice and and egg egg croquettes; croquettes; fried fried bread; bread; slices slices of ofsauted calves' sauted calves' rice .liver. '>Iiver. Some are are dipped dipped in in /lour-and-egg flour-and-egg bat batter, others in in egg egg Sorne ter, others and breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. They They are are fried fried in in deep deep fat fat or or sauted saut6ed in in and prepared in butter. Frillo-mislo, Fritto-misto, prepared in this this \Vay, way, makes makes an unusual an unusual butter. and tasty tasty lunchcon luncheon dish. dish. and

FROG. GRENOUILLE cRENoUTLLE Web-footed amphibian amphibian of of which - Web-footed FROG, there are are about about 20 20 species. species. Among Among those those to to be found in in be found there France are green or are the the green ot common commonfrog, the ruSly rusty or or mule mute frog, France frog, the so-called because the male male has has no no voice-box. voice-box. In In the the United so-called because the United States there there is is a a very very large large species species called called the the bull bull frog or frog or States bellowing frog. Thts creature creature is twice the size of of the the types types frog. This bellowing is twice the size indigenous to to Europe. Europe. indigenous Frog mea!, meat, whicb which is is no no more than a a titbit, titbit, is easily is easily Frog more than digestible. digestible. The frogs frogs eaten eaten in France usually in France come from central The usually come from central Europe. They They are are very Europe. very muscular, muscular, and and plumper plumper than than the the local local varieties, varieties, but but French French frogs, frogs, especially especially those those of of Sologne Sologne and the Dombes, have subtler and the Dombes, have more more delicate delicate flesh flesh and and a a subtler flavour. flavour. The The quality qua lit y of of the the frogs frogs of of the the Dombes Dombes fully fully justifies justifies their more expensive. expensive. their being being more Preparation Preparalion. Skin Skin the the frogs frogs and and remove rem ove the the breast, breast, retainretaining only the legs, ing only the legs, which which alone alone are are edible. edible. Cut Cut off off the the feet. feet. Skewer Skewer the the legs legs and and immerse immerse them them in in very very cold cold water. wateL Change every 2 Change the the water water every 2 hours hours to to whiten whiten and and swell sweU the the flesh. Dry the the legs legs thus thus prepared prepared and and cook cook thern them according according flesh. Dry to one or other of the recipes to one or other of the recipcs set set out out below. below. Usually Usually 3 3 pairs pairs per per serving serving are are allowed. allowed. Frogs' Frogs' leS legs i I'anglaise. l'anglaise. cRENourLLEs GRENOUILLES A r'lNGrArsE L'ANGLAISE Season Season the the frogs' frogs' legs legs with with salt salt and and pepper. pepper. Flour Flour them them and and dip in egg and breadcrumbs. dip in egg and breadcrumbs. Saut6 Saut in in butter. butter. Arrange Arrange them them on of Maite Maftre d'h6tel d'htel butter bUller (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, ComComon a a bed bed of pound pound butters). bUl/ers). Serve Serve with with boiled boiled potatoes. potatoes. This This dish dish is is called called d l'anglaise, l'anglaise, because because this this is is the the name name given given to to food food which which is is dipped dipped in in egg egg and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and then then fried. fried. Frogs'legs Frogs' legs i Ia la b6chamel. bchamel, cRENourLLEs GRENOUILLES A Lt LA sfcnAMH. BCHAMEL Season Season the the frogs' frogs' legs legs with with salt salt and and pepper. pepper. Put Put them them in in a a pan frying with a little butter and I tablespoon white wine. wine. frying pan with a liltle butter and 1 tablespoon white Cover, and cook cook over over a a high high flame. flame. Cover, and Add Add a a few few tablespoons tablespoons thick thick Bdchamel Bchamel sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE) SAUCE) mixed mixed with with some sorne fresh fresh cream. cream. Simmer Simmer for for a a few few moments. moments. Add Add !1 tablespoon tablespoon butter. butter. Frogs' Frogs' legs legs as as a a border, border, au au gratin. gratin, cRENourLLEs GRENOUILLES EN EN BoRDUREs, BORDURES, curw6ns GRATINES - Prepared Prepared like like Frogs' Frogs' legs legs d la la Mornay Mornay (see (sec below), below), but but served served as as a a garnish. garnish. Frogs'legs Frogs' legs in in cream. cream. cRENourLLEs GRENOUILLES A LA LA cnh,re CRME- Cook Cook the the frogs' Frogs' legs legs h la la bdchamel. bchamel. Boil Boil some sorne fresh fresh frogs' legs legs as as for for Frogs' cream and pour pour over over the the frogs'legs. frogs' legs. Boil Boil down down and and serve. serve. cl'eam and
398 398

Curried frogs' frogs' legs. legs. GRENOUILLES cRENourLLEs A L'INDIENNE r'rNomNlre -- Saut Saut6 Curried the frogs' frogs' legs legs in in butter. butter. Serve Serve them them in in aa border border of of curried curried the (see SAUCE) rice, with with Curry poured over. Curuy sauce sauce (sec SAUCE) poured over. rice, Fried frogs' frogs' legs. legs. GRENOUILLES cnrNourllEs FRITES FRrrEs -- Soak Soak the the frogs' frogs' Fried legs in in aa marinade marinade for for 30 minutes, as 30 minutes, for Frogs' as for Frogs' legs legs legs fril/ers fritters (see HORS-D'UVRE, HORS-D'(EUVRE, HOI Hot hors-d'uvre), proceed in hors-d'euvre), and and proceed in (see the same same way for that way as as for that recipe. recipe. the The frogs' frogs' legs legs may may also also be be dipped dipped in in flour flour and and fried fried in in the the The usual way. way. usual Frogs' legs legs frilters. fritters. BEIGNETS BErcNErs DE DE GR GRENoUTLLES See Frogs' ENOUILLES -- See HORS-D'(EUVRE, HOI Hot hors-d'uvre. hors-d'euvre. HORS-D'UVRE, t la la lyonnaise, lyonnaise. GRENOUILLES Frogs'legs cRENourLLEs A LA r,c, LYONNAISE ryoNNArs -Frogs' legs Season the the frogs' frogs' legs legs and dip them them in and dip in /louL flour. Saut Saut6 in in butter butter Season over a very high a very high fla flame. When tbey they are are weIl well browned, add over me. When add (3 tablespoons) 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) finely finely chopped chopped onion onion lightly lightly 2 browned in in butter. butter. Saut Saut6 the the frogs' frogs' legs legs and and onions onions together. browned together. parsley. Serve Sprinkle with with choppcd chopped parsley. Serve with with a a sauce sauoe made made by Sprinkle by heating a a little little vinegar vinegar in in the the cooking cooking butter. heating Frogs' legs legs la meunire. i la meunidre. GRENOUILLES cRENourLLEs A LA LA MEUNIRE raBuNGnE -Frogs' Season and and flour flour the frogs' legs, the frogs' legs, and and saut saut6 them them in in butter. butter. Season Arrange them them in in a serving dish a serving dish and and sprinkle sprinkle with with chopped chopped Arrange juice over parsley. Squeeze Squeeze a a few few drops pour drops of of lemon lemon juice over and and pour parsley. on the the cooking cooking butter, butter, which which has has been been heated until until it it turns on brown. If necessary, necessary, add a little little fresh add a fresh butter. butter. Serve Serve at at once. brown. legs I la la Mirepoix. GRENOUILLES cRENourLLEs A LA t-A, MIREPOIX MrREpoD( Frogs' legs Season and and flour the the frogs' frogs' legs, legs, and and saut saut6 in in butter. butter. When Season add 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) vegetable they are cooked, add mirepoix (q.v.) which has has been slowly cooked cooked in butter mirepo: butter until until tender. tender. a very high flame and and mix weiL well. To serve serve pour Cook over a 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) concentrated meat stock over the mixture and and sprinkle with chopped parsley. the \Vith chopped parsley. Frogs' legs t la la Mornay. GRENOULLLES cRENourLLEs A re uonN^a,y Frogs' legs LA MORNAY Cook the frogs' legs gently in a little white wine, butter, and Cook lemon juice. and dry them with a cio cloth. juice. Drain and th. Serve them on an ovenproof ovenproof dish lined Iined with Mornay Mornay sauce (see (see SAUCE) and and surrounded with with a a border of Duchess potatoes with Morney (see POTATOES). POT A TOES). Cover Cover with Morney sauce sauce to pOlaloes (see which the pan Sprinkle with cheese pan juices juices have been been added. Sprinkle and and pour pour on meltod melted butter. Brush Brush the border with beaten egg yolk. Brown in the oven or under the tbe grill. yolk. Brown Frogs' Frogs' legs legs i la la nigoise. nioise, cRENourLLEs GRENOUILLES A u LA NrQorsE NiOISE Proceed Proceed as as for for Frogs' Frogs' legs legs d la la mirepoix, mirepoix, substituting substituting Tomatofondue Tomatofondue d Ia la nigoise nioise (see TOMATO) for for the the mirepoix. mirepoix. Frogs' Frogs' legs legs with witb chopped parsley. cRENoUTLLES GRENOUILLES AUx AUX FrNES FINES HERBES HERBES - Season the frogs' frogs' legs with \Vith salt and pepper. pepper. Dip in flour ftour and saut6 saut in in butter butter over over a high high flame. flame. When When they they are are cooked and well browned, browned, sprinkle with with chopped parsley. parsley. Squeeze Squeeze the the juice juice of of a a lemon lemon over over them them and and poru pour on on the the butter butter in in which which they they have have been been cooked. cooked. Frogs'legs Frogs' legs i la la poulette. poulette, cRENourLLEs GRENOUILLES A ra LA pourerre POULEHE Cook Cook the the frogs'legs frogs' legs gently gently in in a a little litt le white white wine, wine, with with butter butter and and a a squeeze squeeze of of lemon lemon juice. juice. Season Season with with salt salt and and pepper. pepper. Add Add a a small smalt onion onion and and a a bouquet bouql/el garni garni (q.v.). (q.v.). As As soon soon as as the add peeled, peeled, sliced sliced mushrooms. mushrooms. the liquid liquid comes cornes to to the the boil, boil, add Cover Cover and and simmer. simmer. Drain Drain the the frogs'legs frogs' legs and and mushrooms. mushrooms. Strain Strain the the stock stock and and boil boil it it down. down. Thicken Thicken with with egg egg yolks yolks and and cream, cream, as as for for Poulette Pou/elle sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Put Put the the frogs' frogs' legs legs and and mushmushrooms rooms back back in in the the sauce sauce and and heat. heat. Add Add Il tablespoon tablespoon fresh fresh butter, butter, chopped chopped parsley, parsley, and and a a squeeze squeeze of of lemon lemon juice. juice. Frogs' Frogs' legs legs prepared prepared in in this this way way can can be be served served in in a a pie pie crust crust or or a a vol-au-venl. vol-au-vent. They They are are then then called called timbales timbales or or volvolau-vent au-vent offrogs' of frogs' legs legs d la lapoulette. poulette. Frogs' Frogs' legs legs sautded sauted I la la provengale. provenale, cnsNoururs GRENOU1LLF,S slur6es SA UTES A le LA pnovnNgAlE PROVENALE , - Saut6 Saut the the frogs' frogs' legs legs in in butter butter or or oil, oil, as Frogs' legs legs d ld la'lyonnaise. lyonnaise. Add Add a a little Iittle crushed cru shed garlic garlic as for for Frogs' and and chopped chopped parsley. parsley.

FRUIT

(Laroasse) Dried fruits (Larousse) Citrus frulls fruits Citrus

liver. (See FROMAGE D'ITALIE pig's liver. Dish made made from pig's FROMAGE - Dish OFF AL or VARIETY V ARIETY MEATS.) OFFAL FROMAGE In former times, plain ices moulded FROMAGE GLAC GLACE - ln glacd in France. into conical shapes were calJed fromage glac calledy'omage The na me fromage fromage bavarois The name was used for the the cold cold sweet bavarois was used for made made from from a a mixture of custard and and whipped cream, cream, now called bavarois V ARIAN CREAM). bavarois (see BA BAVARIAN CREAM). grated cheese FROMAGER-To add add grated to a sauce, stuffing, cheese to a sauce, kind of or of dough; or any any kind dough; or or to to sprinkle sprinkle it it over over food food to to be browned in the oyen. oven. The cheeses most commonly used for for commonlv used
this purpose are Parmesan Parmesan and and Gruyre. Gruydre.

FROMENTEAU FROMENTEAU - Variety of table grapes. FRONTIGNAN H6rault district which FRONTIGNAN town of the the Hrault - Small town has has given its name name to a a heavy type of Muscatel wine.

fruit is of any the ovary FRUIT Botanically speaking, speaking fruit is the ovary of - BotanicaJly growing plant. In current usage, growing usage, however, 'fruit' refers only to those which may be eaten as dessert. Sorne fact, are are eaten as as vegetables, for for example, example, Some fruits, in fact, pumpkins, marrows, gourds, cucumbers, aubergines, cucumbers, olives, aubergines, pumpkins, tomatoes, tomatoes. etc. ln In terms of calories some of the commoner fruits fruits have calories sorne of the little little food food value, value, except except for for those those with with a a high high starch, starch, oil, or sugar content. However, it is is from fruit that we we get, in a minerals as form which is is readily assimilated, essential minerais as weJl well as because of vitamins. Also, Also, because as ail all the precious health-giving health-giving vitamins. quencher. its water content, fruit is is an excellent excellent thirst quencher. Dried fruit. FRUITS SECS sEcs - Included under this heading are naturally dry hazelnuts, walnuts, dry fruits fruits such such as as almonds, almonds, hazelnuts, etc., Artfficially dried dried fruits etc., rich rich in in fats fats and and albumen. albumen. Artificially prunes, raisins, raisins, etc.) (apricots, cherries, figs, apples, apples, pears, prunes, cherries, figs, preparation. Ali provide are All these these provide further preparation. are eaten eaten without without further very concentrated nourishment. they are are soaked and nourishment. When they qualities of quite ail cooked, have not not quite all the the qualities cooked, although although they they have fresh fresh fruit, fruit, they a useful they provide a useful substitute. Fruit ices. AI-rx FRUITS FRUITs The basic basic syrup consists ices. GLACES cLAcEs AUX - The of 4 cups sugar to 2 cups for 5 minutes and cups of water boiled for te density cooled. gives an 18" to of 18 to 22' 22" density of cooled. This This gives an approxima approximate when To this this cold cold syrup syrup when measured measured on on a a saccharometer. saccharometer. To various fruit fruit pulps or juices are added. juices. sucs (rus) DE Fruit juices. FRUITs sucs (JUs) DE FRUITS - Fruit juices, obtained it, are are by cooking or by by squeezing it, a !ittle little water, water, or fruit with with a by cooking fruit very popuJar popular especially suffering from as drinks for persons suffering especially as feverish illnesses.
399 399

Most of commercially. Most are also also extracted extracted commercially. Fruit juices Fruit juices are sterilised by by sorne some means these are excellent, excellent, especiaJly especially those sterilised have considerable food other than They have food value, other than boiling. boiling. They with that that of milk. comparable with pAIN DE DE FRU1TS FRUITs a charlotte mould with with Fruit mould. murld. PAIN - Coat a jelly (made (made of the a thick layer of jelly the same same fruit as as the the mixture mixture a used in the the centre). to be used centre). mould with a has set, fill fill the middle of the mouJd a fruit When this has (see BA prepared in BAVARIAN CREAM) prepared bavarois mixture (see VARIAN CREAM) any cream. a layer advance but without adding any cream. Coyer Cover with a of jelly. of jelly. Chili Chill on ice. AU VINAIGRE vINAIGRE Pickled Pickld fruits. fruits. FRUITS CONFITS coNFITS AU - Pour vinegar jars; add glass or add enough enough fine fine sugar sugar to into into gJass or stone stone pickling jars; is sharp sharp without being tum turn the mixture into into a a syrup syrup which which is a few few weeks the too sour. too sour. Add the the fruit to be pickled. After a syrup and and will fruit will be thoroughly impregnated with the syrup for eating. be ready for fruit same as fruit fruit may may be be used used for for the the sa me purpose as Pickled fruit preserved in more commonly served as as a a commonly served but is is more preserved in brandy, brandy, but condiment. Ingredients for l0 people. salad. FRUITS FRUITs RAFRACHIS Rlrnelcrns -- Ingredients Fruit salado for 10 greengages, 3 ripe pears, 2 2 apples, apples,4 peaches, 6 6 peaches, 4 6 apricots, 6 greengages, (4 oz., (4 oz., g. (4 g. (4 raspberries, 100 100 g. oz' bananas, oz., scant cup) cup) raspberries, bananas, 100 g. (mixed), 100 (4 oz., g. (4 grapes (mixed), 100 g. black grapes scant scant cup) cup) white white and and black (+ dl. (t 24 fresh fresh almonds, almonds, 3 3 dl. seant ail strawberries, 24 scant cup) small cup) sm pint, H or 6 6 tablespoons tablespoons lf, cups) and/or maraschino, 5 or pint, cups) kirsch and/or fine sugar. peaches, pears, and and cut cut them them Method. Peel and apples apples and Method. Peel the peaches, pieces. Peel and cut cut them them into into strips. strips. the bananas and into little pieces. Peel the greengages and cut them thern up. up. and greengages and cut Stone the apricots and strawAdd two-thirds of the the strawMix ail in a a bowl. bowl. Add this fruit in all this with two-thirds two-thirds of of the Decorate with berries berries and and raspberries. raspberries. Decorate pour on grapes. Sprinkle on the the liqueur. top and grapes. Sprinkle the the sugar sugar on on top and pour properly dish so so that the the various fruits are properly Gentle shake the the dish larger bowl bowl containing containing crushed mixed. Put Put the bowl into into a a Jarger the bowl ice. ice. Leave for for 1 I hour. glass bowl (or a a glass a special double Transfer Transfer the fruit salad salad to a the top top of of container). Surround crushed ice. ice. Decorate the Surround with crushed strawberries, raspberries, raspberries, the the fruit salad the remaining strawberries, salad with the grapes, and grapes, almonds. and blanched blanched and and halved almonds. The ingredients The ingredients of of a a fruit fruit salad salad vary vary according according to to the pineapples, season. All kinds kinds of fruit fruit may may be be used, used, such such as as pineapples, season. Ail plums, cherries, oranges, oranges, nectarines, nectarines, mirabelle mirabelle plums, cherries, etc. It may may etc. It also also be be made from from fruit fruit preserved in in syrup. syrup. Instead of sweetening sweetening it with sugar, sugar, syrup syrup may may be poured Instead

FRUIT FRUIT
onto onto the the fruit fruit salad, salad, and and any any liqueur liqueur may may be be used used for flavouring. flavouring. Fruit Fruit salad can be served as a dessert course or
Fruit Fruit salad salad i la cr6ole. crole. FRUITS FRUITS na.rR.q.lcHrs RAFRACHIS A ra LA cn6ols CROLE Macddoine Macdoine of of fruit fruit made made from from bananas, pineapples and oranges oranges finely finely sliced, sliced, sprinkled sprinkled with rum and sugar sugar and left to to stand stand in in ice. ice. It It is is served in in a glass glass bowl bowl (or (or a special special double double container) container) on a a bed bed of of pineapple pineapple ice ice cream. Pour Pour on lightly lightly whipped whipped sweetened sweetened fresh fresh cream cream flavoured flavoured with with rum. Decorate Decorate the the top top with \Vith orange orange segments segments and and blanched pistachio pistachio nuts. nuts. Fruit Fruit salad with with kirsch. kirsch. FRUrrs FRUITS RAFRAIcHTs RAFRACHIS AU AU KrRscH KIRSCH Use Use all ail the the fruits fruits in season: season: strawberries, strawberries, cherries, peaches, peaches, apricots, apricots, grapes, grapes, almonds, alrnonds, etc., etc., with with stalks, stalks, stones, stones, skins removed. removed. Some Sorne are are sliced, sliced, others others left left whole. whole. Sprinkle with with sugar, sugar, mix mix without without bruising, bruising, pour pour kirsch kirsch over, over, and and place place in in a a larger larger bowl bowl full of of crushed crushed ice. ice. Instead lnstead of of sugal sugar, the the fruit fruit salad salad may may be be sweetened with with a very very heavy hea vy syrup. syru p. Fruit Fruit salad salad i la la maltaise. maltaise. FRUrrs FRUITS n.crRAlcHrs RAFRACHIS A ra LA uelrelsr MAL TAISE - Macddoine Mactidoine (q.v.) (q.v.) of of fruit fruit made rnade from from oranges, oranges, bananas, bananas, cherries, cherries, and and pineapples, pineapples, left left to to soak soak with with sugar sugar and and Curagao. Curaao. Serve Serve in in a a glass glass bowl bowl or or special special double double container container on on a bed bed of of orange orange ice ice cream. cream. Cover Cover with with whipped whipped cream. cream. Decorate Decorate with with segments segments of of orange. orange. Fruit Fruit salad saJad i la la normande. normande. rRurrs FR L'ITS nnrnq.lcHrs RAFRACHIS A LA LA NoRMANDE NORMANDE - Make Make a a macidoine macdoine (q.v.) (q.v.) of of fruit fruit from from russet russet or or tart tart apples, app1es, fresh fresh pineapple, pineapple, and and bananas. bananas. Soak Soak this this mixture mixture in in sugar sugar and and Calvados. Calvados. Serve Serve in in a a glass glass bowl bowl or or special special double double container. container. Cover Cover
as as a salad course. course.

with lightly beaten cream which has beaten fresh cream has been been sweetened
with sugar sugar and flavoured fiavoured with calvados. calvados. Fruit Fruit salad salad i I'occitanienne. l'occitanienne. FRUrrs FRUITS nc.FRAlcHrs RAFRAcHIS A L'occITANIENt{s L'OCCITANIENNE - Place sliced pears, black black and white grapes, and a bowl. Sprinkle with and peeled peeled figs figs cut cut into into slices, slices, in in a bowl. Sprinkle sugar and pour on Blanquette Blanquette de de Limoux (q.v.) and and a little brandy. brandy. Surround Surround the the bowl bowl with with ice ice mixed mixed with with a a little kitchen kitchen salt, so that the fruit may be slightly congealed. congealed. Cover Cover with Chantilly Chantilly cream (see CREAMS) CREAMS) and decorate decorate with with grapes. Fruit Fruit salad Tsarina (Czarina). FRUrrs FRUITS nepn.llcHrs RAFRAcHIS rzARrNE TZARINE - Put mixed mixed fruit, whole or sliced, sliced, soaked soaked with sugar sugar and kummel, on top of a a layer of pineapple ice cream. cream. Cover withChantilly cream(see with Chantillycream (see CREAMS) CREAMS) flavoured with with kummel. Decorate Decorate with crystallised violets violets and lozenge-shaped lozenge-shaped pieces pieces of of angelica. angelica. Fruit Fruit sauces - See SAUCE, SA UCE, Dessert Dessert sauces. sauces. Sugar-coated Sugar-coated and marzipan fruit. rnurrs FRUITS pfcursns DGUISS - Small fruit (strawberries, blackcurrants, blackcurrants, cherries, cherries, gooseberries, gooseberries, fruit (strawberries, plums, plums, etc.), etc.), either fresh fresh or or preserved preserved in in brandy, brandy, coated coated with Fondant Fondant icing (see ICING). lCING). Marzipan fruits are a kind of of petit petit four four (q.v.) (q.v.) made from very thick fruit pur6e pure mixed mixed with with almond almond paste, paste, or sometimes times with with concentrated jam. jam. These These are moulded moulded into the shape of various va rio us fruits and and covered with with caramel caramel sugar.

FRUIT IN IN DIETETICS - The discovery of vitamins has has highlighted the the importance of fruit in the diet. It must be borne in mind, mind, however, however, that that digestive upsets upsets frequently frequently borne occur when when raw raw fruit fruit is is eaten eaten in in conjunction conjunction with with a meat meat diet. occur

Fruit salad salad Fruit

400 400

FUMET FUMET
Fruit Fruit contains contains the the following following elements elements in in variable variable proproportions: portions: Water Water (85 (85 per per cent cent average average for for juicy juicy fruit). fruit). Organic Organic acids acids (principally (principally malic malic and and citric citric acids). acids).
Carbohydrates. Carbohydrates. Proteic Proteic substances. substances. Practically Practically no no lipids lipids except except in in olives, olives, almonds, almonds, and and walnuts. walnuts. Mineral Mineral salts. Vitamins. Vilamins. Aromatic Aromatic essences essences (which give each each fruit fruit its its particular particular flavour). flavour).

Jean-Camille FULBERT.DUMONTEIL Jean-Camille FulbeitFu 1be'rtFlJLBERT-DlJMONTEIL Dumonteil Dumonteit was was a a French French writer writer and and a a great great gastronome. gastronome. Born in the the Dordogne Dordogne in in 1830, 1830, he he wrote wrote charming charming Born at at Vergt Vergt in articles articles on on the the art art of of cookery cookery which which were were published published in in the the journals, form form of of a a chronicle chronicle in in various various journals, notably notably the the old old Figaro. Figaro. These These were wcre collected eollected in in one one volume volume under under the the title tille
la la France France gourmande. gourmande.

FUMET FlJMET - Name Name given given to to a a number number of of different different liquids liquids

FRUITARIAN. FRt;ITARIAN. rnucrvoRE FRUGIVORE

- A person person who who lives lives exexclusivelyon fruit and vegetables, vegetables, believing believing that that man man should on fruit clusively feed only on that that which can be be eaten in the the natural natural state state in in which it grows. grows. which

- A

FRUITERY. FRUITERY.

FRUITERIE, FRUITERIE, rntnrrEnr FRUITIRE - Special Special storage place place

fruit. Fruitiire Fruitire is is the the name given given to to a a cheese cheese factory for fruit.
usually the mountains lllountains near near pastures. paslures. usually situated in the

Soft part FRlJIT KERNEL. NoYAU NOYAU - Soft pari within within hard hard shell of of FRUIT nut or stone fruit. Fruit kernel liqueur. cniirrlr CRME DE DE NoYAUx NOYAUX - Liqueur which Fruit (See LIQUEUR.) has fruit kernels as a basis. (Sec Implement for FRUIT FRlJIT STONE CRACKER. fNovlursun NOYAUTEUR -lmplement for
such cracking cracking the stones of of certain fruits, su ch as cherries, cherries, without without completely. crushing them completely.
-

rnorr{sNrm FRlJMENTY. FROMENTE FRUMENTY.

flour.

from wheat Porridge Porridge made made from

FRYING FRYlNG

CULINARY FRYING; CULINARY DEEP FRYING; SEC DEEP See METHODS, SaUls. Sautis. METHODS,

pan with long handle, a long with a PoLE - ShaJlow Shallow pan PAN. POLE FRYlNG PAN. handle, FRYING used for frying food. used pan for for roasting and a a pan pan is in shape, and is oval in fish frying pan A fish chestnuts chestnuts is perforated on the bottom.
scales, rather sold in in the the fonn form of purple scaJes. FUCIISINE FlJCHSINE - Dye sold is somesmell. It is in taste and and somewhat somewhat unpleasant in smel!. sweet in wines and for wine.~ and foodstuffs. colouring times used used as as artificial col times ou ring for

which which are are used used to to flavour flavour or or give give body body to to stocks stocks and and sauces. sauces. Fumets Fumels are are prepared prepared by by boiling boiling foodstuffs foodstuffs of of one one kind kind or or another anolher either either in in stock stock or or in in wine. wine. or Fumets Fumets should should not not be be confused confused with with essences, essences, extracts, extracts, or concentrates. concentrates. Chicken Chicken ftrmel fumet. FUMEr FUMET DE DE VoLAILLEVOLAILLE - Chicken Chicken broth, broth, made made by by boiling boiling down down chicken chicken stock stock (see (see STOCKS). STOCKS). poultry . This This fumet fumet is is used used to to add add flavour flavour to to various various poultry dishes dishes which which are are served served with with a a sauce. sauce. Stock made Fish Fish frrmet. fumet. FsMEr FUMET DE DE PoIssoN POISSON - Stock made from l'rom the the bones bones and and trimmings trimmings of of fish, fish, the the flesh flesh being being prepared prepared separately. This Titis fish fish stock stock is is very very much much boiled boiled down. down. It Il is is used with with white white wine wine in in the the cooking cooking of of certain certain fish, fish, and and also also special white in in the preparation preparation of of speciaI white or or brown brown fish fish sauces. sauces. For For the preparation preparation of of fishfumer, fish fumel, see sec STOCKS. STOCKS. stock made GIBIER Game fumet. fumet. FUMET FL'MET DE DE GIBIER - Game Game stock made with with down and trimmings the carcases and trimmings of of different different game game boiled boiJed down to a concentrated to a concentrated consistencY. consistency. Thisfumet FUMEr DE Mushroom ftrmet. fumet. FUMET DE cHAMPIGNoNsCHAMPIGNONS - This fumet is is prepared completely reducing almost completely prepared by aImost reducing the the cooking cooking liquid liquid of It is of cultivated mushrooms. of cultivated mushrooms. Jt is used used to to improve improve the the flavour flavour of sauces. certain sauces. PATE. Pit6 fumet- See See PT. Ptfumetused to enhance TRUFFEs FUMET DE Trufle fumet. Truffle fumet. FUMET DE TRUFFES Fumel used to enhance - Fumet peelings are are simmered simmered Truffie peelings sauces. Truffie of certain sauces. the flavour flavour of The fumet is usually wine. The Madeira or or any any heavy in Madeira in heavy wine. fumel is usually made made some other other used for are being themselves are when the truffles trufres themselves when being used for sorne purpose. purpose. is This fumet oE LG1J1I.!ES rEcurars FUMET DE frrmet. FUMET Vegetable fumet. - This fumel is Vegetable made from from a stock stock made reducing a prepared by completely reducing almost completely prepared by almost leeks, celery, celery, onions, leeks, as carrots, such as carrots, onions, vegetables a variety of vegeta a bles such etc. etc.

401 401

France for the redGADELLE Name used used in in western France for the - Name called gade n currant, in Normandy. currant, which is called
small town in the Tarn GAILLAC - The white wines of this small a wide wide reputation. Sorne Some are are sold in Paris as district enjoy a processed like young wines; like Champagne and young wines; others others are are processed or mousseux, according to become perlant, perlant, pitillant, ptillant, or to how become 'bubbly' they are.

(French Government The vineyards of Gaillac Gaillac (French Ofice\ The Government Tourist Office)

poultry or meat, GALANTII{E from boned poultry GALANTINE meat, - Dish made from pressed into symmetrical shape. shape. Galantines are stuffed, and pressed into a symmetrical stuffed, a gelatine stock. cooked in a probably derives derives from the words giline The term tenn probably gline or galine was first chicken. for this this dish was which in in old which old French meant chicken, and later, towards the end of the sevenmade with poultry, and with other types types of bird, cuts of meat, and teenth century, with fish. A sous-presse sous-presse of fish was a form of galantine. even fish. a fonn galantines are made from other meats besides Nowadays, galantines poultry, but strictly the word qualificaword'galantine' 'galantine' without without qualification denotes galantine of poultry. preparing this cold dish. ways of preparing There are many ways (Car0me's recipe). I (Carme's recipe). GALANTINE cALANTINE DE Galantine of chicken 1 IoULARDE A LA r,c, GELE cnrfE The forcemeat. 'Chop 250 g. POULARDE g. (9 (9 oz.) - The (8 oz.) cooked g. (18 oz.) fat bacon and 225 g. g. (8 veal with 500 g. and225 ham. Mix in 4 teaspoons teaspoons Spiced Spiced salt salr (see SALT), SALT),2 2 egg yolks, e5gyolks, (3 tablespoons) chopped and 2 tablespoons (3 chopped herbs herbs with the and same quantity of truffies. Mix weil well and place in an earthenware dish. (t| lb.) very ripe truffies. Cut each truffie truffie into 'Peel 750 g. (I~
402 402

red pickled tongue. Skin it and cut it quarters. Take a good red slices. Cut 500 g. lengthwise into 6 slices. e. (18 oz.) raw fat ham into calf's udder. thick fingers or use fresh pork fat or calf's thick fingers pluck, and 'Singe, pluck, a medium-sized bone a The The chicken. chicken 'Singe, and bone plump plump chicken, and open it out on a c1oth. half the cloth. Cut away half pieces thus removed removed to breast and thighs. Use the pieces meat of of the breast so little flesh is so ftesh that the skin is line the bird wherever there is that the so that almostthe flesh ftesh may may be be evenly almost showing through, so an appropriate amount amount of spiced distributed. distributed. Season with an (1 lb.) boned g. (1 salt, that is 2 teaspoons teaspoons spiced salt per 500 g. flesh. ftesh. half the half the forcemeat on the chicken, and lay half 'Spread half on top, top, making sure that the fat on truffies, trufles, tongue, and and ham fat effect. Season Season lightly with spiced colours present a mottled effect. a mottled salt. Coyer Cover the whole with half the remaining forcemeat and pickled tongue, with and the pickled lay trufles, the fat, layon fat, and on top the truffies, remaining forceCover with with the the remaining a a little added added seasoning. Coyer meat. 'Now fold the chicken back to its original shape, sewing it up with a a trussing needle so that ail all the garnish is contained in the bird, which should be moulded into into a round or slightly oval shape. 'Wrap slices of fat bacon round the chicken. Fold a piece tightly with tying both ends tightly of muslin round both ends round the the whole, whole, tying keep it it in string. a piece of string round the middle to keep string. Tie a shape. 'Brown strips of fat bacon in a casserole. Place the galan4 onions, 4 carrots, carrots, a onions, 4 a large surround with tine in it and tine in it and surround with 4 parsley and Season with with thyme, and spring spring onions. onions. Season bunch of parsley bunch laure l, basil and 4 cloves. Add the bones of the chicken, and laurel, feet, enough ofveal enough stock or chicken 4 knuckles of veal or 2 calf's feet, to coyer cover the the galantine, then then 1 glass dry dry Madeira broth to Madeira or broth (3 tablespoons) old good 2 tablespoons (3 wine and and 2 good white white wine paper and and brandy. Coyer Cover the whole with a piece of buttered paper a high high ftame. flame. Then for 3 start to to cook cook over a Then simmer slowly for hours and and remove from the stove. galantine out 'An hour out of of the 'An hour later, la ter, carefully lift lift the the galantine Lay it it breast downwards on on a a slightly slightly curved casserole. breast downwards casserole. Lay platter and squeeze squeeze it gently, still still wrapped wrapped in the earthenware earthenware platter muslin, to rem remove moi sture left in it. ove any moisture (8 lb.) weight, 'Covr with a 'Coyer a lid and and place on top a a 3| kg. (8 in order to ftatten flatten and spread the chicken. jelly through through a sieve. Remove Remove aU all fat 'Next, strain the jelly a fine sieve. for 15 Clarify by one of the and leave it to 15 minutes. Clarify to settle for JELLY. Y. methods described described under JELL gently with a 'When the galantine is cold, uncover it, dry it gently remove all string. Coyer Cover it very carefully carefully ail all over ove ail cloth, and and rem a white glaze. with a

3t

GALETTE
'Place on an entrie entre dish. Arrange Arrange a rosette of of jelly jelly on the top, surround surround with chopped jelly jelly and and then with rounds of top, wooden board with with a weight on top. Allow Aliow to cool cool for at least 12 hours. It It can be kept for several days ifit if it is stored in a cool place. own jelly, The galantine is served garnished garnished with its own jelly, which JELLY). must be clarified clarified by the usual method (see JELL Y). of other poultry may OTHER GALANTINES GALANTINES OTHER - Galantines of galanbe prepared by the same same method as that indicated for galanofvarious game also be made ofvarious tine of chicken. Galantines may tine of may also birds su such ch as pheasant, pheasant, partridge, partridge, grouse, hazel-grouse, hazel-grouse, etc., altering the ingredients of the stuffing. altering The recipes for the various galantines are given in alphabetical order under the name na me of each game bird. prepared according to the method used Galantines may be prepared by pork butchers. Instead of being wrapped in a cloth, they moulds. are put in special rectangular rectangular metal or earthenware mou Ids. galantines, a certain amount improve tbe the flavour flavour ofthese of these galantines, To improve grasmay stuffing.Dicedfoie of foie gras may be added to the stuffing. ofjoie Dicedfoie gras may to the salpicon. added to also be added

jelly jelly cut with a pastry cutter I 1 cm. (| (t inch) in diameter, diameter, and
serve. ' serve.'

of chicken chic ken II. c.cLINTINE GALANTINE DE PoULARDS POULARDE - For the Galantine of (9 oz.) galantine. I 1 chicken weighing 2 ke. kg. (41b.), (41 lb.), 250 2S0 g. g. (9 (9 oz.) finely minced veal, 150 ISO g. 250 g. (9 finely minced pork, 2S0 (5 and pickled (S oz.) oz.) each each of fat fat bacon, bacon, lean lean cooked cooked ham, ham, and ISO g. (5 (S oz.) truffies, 25 2S g. g. (l (1 oz., I t cup) pistachio pistachio tongue, 150 nuts, I 1 dl. (6 tablespoons, scant ] t cup) brandy,2 brandy, 2 eggs, salt, nuts, pepper, spices. spices. (18 oz.) fresh g. (18 500 g. For the the stock or jelly. jelly. 2 calf's feet, feet, SOO For (5* lb.) fleshy bacon rind, 2t kg. kg. (st fleshy knuckle knuckle of veal, 2 carrots, rind,2t bacon (4| quarts, 5 litres litres (4t 2leeks, 1 bouquet garni (q.v.), (q.v.), S 1 onion, 2 leeks, I cups) Madeira, Madeira, 5j quarts) white stock, 4 dl. (t pint, scant 2 cups) salt. pluck the bird. Remove Remove the feet and pinions. Slit Singe Singe and pluck the chicken along the back and with a small very sharp knife which at operaticin, which without tearing the flesh. flesh. (This operation, bone it without It is simple. It first sight seems is actually fairly simple. first sight seems awkward, awkward, is actually fairly necessary only to follow the the joints of of the chicken and to work necessary shaving off off the flesh as close to inwards towards the carcase, shaving operation separates possible. This first first boning boning operation the bone as as possible. the chicken, leaving them both ofthe the carcase carcase from the body of ove the bones from the legs and wings, still remove whole.) Now rem being careful not to tear the skin. Spread out the bird bird on the table and and cut away the breast part of the thighs and fleshy portions of thighs and the fleshy and the the greater part used for wings. Cut these pieces into squares, which will be used (q.v.) or meat ragot the salpicon ragofri in in which which the galantine is salpicon (q.v.) served. lean pork The forcemeat. This is made of finely finely chopped lean The forcemeat. and and veal veal in equal quantities. salt, pepper, and Pound it with with salt, Pound in in a a mortar, mortar, seasoning it (To ob rub the mixture, mixture, spices. tain a spices. (To a very very fine fine forcemeat, rub obtain after pounding, pounding, through a sieve.) through a The dish the lean pieces The salpicon. salpicon Place in an earthenware dish cut fat bacon, the the cooked lean cut away from the chicken, the fat ham, ham, and the pickled tongue (all cut into squares), the diced forcemeat, truffles, nuts. Add the forcemeat, truffies, and the blanched pistachio nuts. the 2 eggs and the brandy. Mix thoroughly, thoroughly, adding seasoning if necessary. necessary. galantine.Knead Preparation of Knead ail all the forcemeat forcemeat into a a of the galantine. bail well spread out ball and lay it on the chicken, chicken, which should be weil on the table. (From time to time, the hands should should be dipped dipped in water to make it easier easier to work the forcemeat.) Spread the it into into a a rectforcemeat evenly forming it over the the chicken, fonning evenly over angular shape. shape. Fold over the parts of the chicken skin which project at the the sides sides and and ends. Dip a it out, and wring wring it out, then a coarse linen linen cloth in in water and spread it fiat flap about 2S 25 cm. cm. so that a a flap flat on on the table. table. Place it so (10 inches) wide hangs over the table. table. Place Place the over the the edge edge of the (4 inches) galantine lengthwise on inches) l0 cm. cm. (4 about 10 on this this clotb, cloth, about galanfrom the galantable, breast upwards. upwards. Wrap the from the edge of the the table, possible. Tie tine in Tie both ends of of the both ends as possible. in the the cloth as as tightly as galantine with cloth securely. Tie the galantine in 3 places to keep with string string in it in in shape. Method of The stock stock is made from the ingredients of cooking. The preparation see Y. listed see JELL JELLY. listed above. the method method of of preparation above. For For the giblets of To of the the add the the carcase carcase and and giblets To the the ingredients ingredients listed, add chicken, with the exception of of the the liver. chicken, with the exception galantine in Cook hours, then in the for It lj hours, then lay the galantine Cook the stock stock for galantine. stock the galantine. for 1 lf; bours. hours. Remove the stock and and simmer gently for Let it Remove the unwrapping it. it. Remove it stand stand for for IS 15 minutes before unwrapping cloth, rinse in Spread water and and wring wring thoroughly. thoroughly. Spread in lukewann lukewarm water it on galantine in it it as as before, wrap the galantine before, on the table table and and carefully carefully wrap part of taking slit part the chicken chicken underneath. underneath. taking care care to to keep keep the the slit of the Tie galantine. Press it on slab, covering covering it it with with a a Tie up up the the galantine. Press it on a a slab,

st

Galantine of eel, Galantine Car6me after Carme

jellied eels. A LA rl D'ANGULLr clr.lNTINE D'ANGUILLE eels. GALANTINE Galantine Galantine of of jellied instructions for to the the instructions according to the eel eel according Frepare the - Prepare of eel (see EEL). Cook it in a fish stock, drain, Co Id ballottine of Cold Unwrap a weight. U and allow to cool under a nwrap the galantine and jelly. Place long dish, dish, and it on on a a long Place it the half-set jelly. coyer cover with with the jelly made from stock. from the eel eel stock. chopped jelly garnish with chopped
GELE cerfn -

GALATHEE to freshwater similar to Species of of shellfish shellfish similar GALATHE - Species galathde parent species crayfish. The The parent species of of this this shellfish, shellfish, the the galathe crayfish. grAk,is shores of of the Atlantic and and on the European shores grle, is common on prepared as in the Mediterranean. Mediterranean. Galathe is prepared as indicated for for Galathde is in (q.v.). lobster (q.v.) and and crayfish (q.v.).
slightly Frothy milk, milk, slightly GALAZYME, GALACTOZYNIE -- Frothy GALAZYI/IE, GALACTOZYME (See small alcoholic alcoholic content. content. (See with a a very very smaU fermented and and with fermented KEFIR.) KFIR.)

from (French Twelfth-Night Cake made from Twelfth-Night cake) GALETTE (French - Cake galette is pastry. The symbolic cake cake eaten eaten on on The galette is the the symbolic flaky flaky pastry. provinces north of Loire, of the the Loire, Twelfth Night in in most most of the the provinces Twelfth notably in notably in the the region of Paris. in the the south south of of France, France, the the Loire, especially in South South of of the the Loire, yeast dough form of from yeast dough in in the the fonn of Twelfth-Night cake cake is is made from Twelfth-Night bean is is baked baked in in the a crown. In both cakes, the the symbolic symbolic bean a crown. In both cakes, it used to be, be, a a real real bean, but is This is is not al always, as it used to is dough. ways, as dough. This model either either ofa of a baby emerging emerging sometimes sometimes a a small small porcelain model (See FESTIVE FESTIVE figure. (See from a of some some other other figure. from a bean bean or or of COOKERY.) cooKERY.) prunrrrEr -- Roll galette. GALETTE pastry galette. Roll out flat out flat cALETTE FEUILLETE Flaky Flaky pastry piece IS round piece 15 to cut from from it it a a round to some flaky flaky pastry dough dough and and cut some (6to7 this on a slab. slab. Crimp l8 cm. in diameter. diameter. Place Place this on a Crimp 18 to 7 inches) cm. (6 inches) in mark out out the the top top in in the edges and brush brush over over with with egg; egg; mark the edges and Bake in in a a hot hot oyen. oven. lozenge-shaped segments. segments. Bake Sieve galettes. PETITES IETITES GALETTES cALETTES ORANGINES onaNcNssSmall - Sieve orange galettes. Small orange place g. (9 (9 oz., In the 250 g. flour onto onto a a table. table. In the centre centre place 2S0 2i cups) oz.,2f cups) flour (5 oz., (4 oz., g. (S g. (4t generous 1 150 g. oz., JO 10 tabletable125 g. oz., generous cup) sugar, sugar, ISO 12S * cup) zest of2 of2 oranges rubbed on spoons) salt, the a pinch of ofsalt, the zest oranges rubbed on spoons) butter, a
403 403

GALICIEN GALICIEN

250 g. g. (9 (9 oz., generous generous cup) butter, butter, I (1 o2.,2 oz., 2 tablespoons) 1 egg and I 1 yolk, I 1 teaspoon teaspoon salt, 25 g. (l sugar, I vanilla. cream, vanilla. cup) fresh cream, 1 dl. (6 tablespoons, scant 1.up) Work the flour with 50 g. (2 oz.,f oz., cup) of of the butter, butter, then add the eggs, cream, salt, vanilla, and sugar. Leave to stand

(ll (II oz.,2f oz., 2~ cups) flour,

Rich Ricb galette. galette. cALErrE GALETTE

FoNDANTE FONDANTE -

Ingredienls. Ingredients. 300 300 g.

for l0 10 minutes.
Knead the dough and add the remaining remaining butter. Roll out and fold the dough 4 times as as is done for Flaky Flaky pastry (see (see DOUGH). DOUGH). Brush Brush with with egg egg and lattice lattice it it with with a knife. Cook Cook in a hot oven oyen and sprinkle, sprinkle, while hot, with powdered sugar. Savoury galettes. g. (9 GALETTES ur6ns SALES - Knead Knead 250 g. (9 oz., galettes. cALErrEs 2| cups) cups) sieved sieved flour with with 150 g. g. (5 (5 oz., oz., 10 10 tablespoons) tablespoons) butter, (i cup) cold milk milk and and lj H teaspoons teaspoons butter, 8 tablespoons (J salt. Leave Leave to stand for 2 hours. Roll out very thinly on a floured table, prick with a fork and inches) in diameter. Place them and cut cut into rounds 5 5 cm. (2 inches) on a buttered buttered baking baking sheet sheet and and brush with milk milk to which which salt has has been been added. added. Bake in a hot oven oyen for 6 to 8 minutes. As soon as the oyen, brush them the galettes are out of the oven, again with with salted salted milk. milk.

2i

Flaky Flaky pastry pastry galettes galettes (Scarnati) (Scarnali)

rounds rounds with with a a fluted fluted cutter cutter 5 cm. cm. (2 inches) inches) in in diameter. diameter. Place brush with egg egg Place them them on on a buttered buttered baking baking sheet, sheet, brush beaten of sugar, sugar, and and bake bake in in a a hot hot oven oyen for for 6 6 to to beaten with with a a pinch pinch of 8 8 minutes. minutes. Galette de plomb plomb - Ingredients. Ingredients. 300 300 g. g. (ll (II o2.,2f, oz., 2~ cups) cups) Galette de sieved g. (7 (7 oz., oz., scant scant cup) cup) butter, butter, 1 1 whole whole egg, egg, sieved flour, flour, 200 200 g. I1 yolk, yolk, I 1 teaspoon teaspoon fine fine sugar, sugar, 2 2 teaspoons teaspoons table table salt, I 1 to to 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons milk milk or or cream. cream. Method. onto a a marble marble slab slab or or table, table, and and Method. Sieve Sieve the the flour flour onto make make a a well weil in in the the centre. centre. Dissolve Dissolve the the salt salt and and sugar sugar in in I1 tablespoon or cream cream and and pour pour into into the the well. weil. Knead Knead the the tablespoon milk milk or butter is malleable, malleable, cut cut it it up up into into very very small small pieces pieces butter until until it it is and dot these these about about in in the the circle circ1e of of flour. flour. and dot Work Work the the butter butter and and the the flour flour until until the the mixture mixture is is very very short. is done done by by rubbing rubbing the the hands hands together together with with the the short. This This is mixture of flour flour and and butter butter between between them. them. Continue Continue to to mixture of shorten is entirely entirely shorten the the dough dough in in this this way way until until the the butter butter is broken broken up up into into very very small small particles. particles. Spread Spread out out the the dough. dough. Beat pour over over the the Beat the the egg egg and and yolk yolk as as for for an an omelette omelette and and pour dough. dough. Work Work it it in in the the sa'me sa'me way way as as before, before, pressing pressing the the hands hands more more and and more more tightly tightly together together as as the the kneading kneading proceeds. proceeds. The The ingredients ingredients in in the the dough dough should should moisten moisten it it sufficiently sufficiently to it together. together. The The pastry pastry should should be be fairly fairly limp. limp. If Ifit it is is a a to hold ho Id it little little too too firm, firm, add add a a second second tablespoon tablespoon milk milk or or cream. cream. (The (The amount amount of of moistening moistening required required may may vary vary with with the the type type of of flour flour used.) used.) When When the thedough dough is isthoroughly thoroughly kneaded, kneaded, cover coyerwith with a a damp damp cloth, cio th, and and put put it it in in a a cool cool place place for for 30 30 minutes. minutes. Then Then flatten flatten it it on on the the table table with with the the palm palm of ofthe the hand, hand, flour flour it it lightly, lightly, and and fold fold into into three. three. Roll Roll into into a a ball. baIl. Flatten Flatten it it into into a a round round shape shape about about 2|cm. 21 cm. (l (1 inch) inch) thick. thick. Crimp Crimp the the edges edges with with the the back back of of a a knife. knife. Place Place on on a a lightly lightly buttered buttered baking baking sheet sheet and and surround surround with with a a buttered buttered tart tart ring. ring. Brush Brush the the top top with with the the beaten beaten egg egg and and trace trace on on it it either either lozenges lozenges or or rosettes. rosettes. This This last last is is the the characteristic de plomb. plomb. characteristic design design for for the the Galette Galette de Bake 25 minutes minutes in in a a moderate moderate oven. oyen. The The Galette Galette Bake for for 20 20 to to 25 de deplomb plomb is is eaten eaten lukewarm lukewann or or cold. cold. Potato Potatogalettes. galettes. cALETTES GALETTESDE DE poMMES POMMES ns DE rEnRE TERRE- These These can can be made made either either with with potatoes potatoes prepared prepared as as for for Duchess Duchess be potatoes POT ATOES) or or with with potatoes potatoes cut cut into into thin thin potatoes (see (see POTATOES) and are are discs. They They are are used used as as a a garnish garnish for for various various dishes, dishes, and discs. ofmeat, poultry, sometimes served served topped topped with with small small pieces pieces of sometimes meat, poultry, or or fish. fish.
404 404

lumps lumps of of sugar sugar and and 6 6 egg egg yolks. yolks. Mix Mix and and work work the tbe flour flour into into the the mixture. mixture. Knead Knead into into a a ball baH and and allow allow it it to to stand stand for for a few few hours hours in in a a cool cool place. place. Roll out the the dough dough to to a a thickness thickness of ofj1cm. cm. G (i inch). inch). Cut Cut into into Roll out

GALICIEN - This This sweet, sweet, which which is is a a type type of of cake, cake, was was created created GALICE,Nin in Paris Paris at the old Pdtisserie Ptisserie Frascati, Frascati, once situated on the
corner corner of ofthe the boulevard boulevard de de Richelieu Richelieu and and the the rue rue de de Richelieu. Richelieu. This ofwhat during the the This pastry pastry shop shop was was built built on on the the site of what was, during years 1796 and 1799 (the (the Directory) Directory) one of of the the most years between between 1796 famous famous gaming-houses gaming-houses in in Paris. Paris. Ingredients.500 cups) fine sugar, 375 g. (13 (13 Ingredients. 500 g. (18 oz., 2f cups) oz., 3* cups) sifted sifted flour, l6 16 eggs. oz., 3f,cups) M ethod. Whisk Whisk the the sugar sugar and and eggs in in a pan, pan, on on the the edge edge of Method. a low low flame. flame. After After the the mixture mixture has has tripled tripled in in volume volume carefully carefully a Pour the the mixture mixture into into a a large, large, shallow, shallow, stir in in the tbe sieved sieved flour. Pour stir in a hot hot oven. oyen. Leave Leave to to cool. cool. sloping-sided cake cake tin. tin. Bake Bake in of Butter Butter Slice the the cake cake across. Spread Spread on on each each halfa half a layer layer of Slice CREAMS) flavoured flavoured with with pistachio pistachio nuts. nuts. Put Put the the cream (see (see CREAMS) cream join them them two halves halves together, together, exerting exerting a little pressure pressure to to join two firmly. Spread Spread the the cake cake with with apricot apricot jam. jam. Ice lce with with Pistachio firmly. icing (see (see ICING) ICING) and and decorate decorate with with more more of of the the pistachiopistachioicing butter cream, cream, using using a a forcing-bag. forcing-bag. Sprinkle with flavoured butter flavoured finely chopped chopped pistachio pistachio nuts. nuts. finely

2i

GALICHONS-Also GALICHONS - Also called called calissons. calissons. Little Little iced iced cakes cakes made made with of Aix. Aix. with pounded pounded almonds, almonds, a a speciality speciality of
- Common Common name name of the the plant plant Cyperus whose whose tubers tubers are are edible edible and and known known in in French French as as Cyperus de terre. terre. amandes de amandes

GALINGALE. soucsrr SOUCHET GALINGALE.

GALL. FIEL FIEL - Secretion Secretion of of the the liver liver commonly commonly called called bile bile in GALL. humans. It It is is a a very very bitter bitter greenish greenish substance. substance. The gall gall humans. bladder is is attached attached to to the the liver. liver. In In drawing drawing poultry poultry or or winged winged bladder game, game, the the gall gall bladder bladder must must always always be be removed removed with with the the greatest greatest care care to to avoid avoid it it breaking breaking and and giving giving a a bitter bitter ff.avour flavour to the the bird. bird. Only Only pigeon pigeon liver liver contains con tains no no gall. gall. to GALLIMAUFRY. clrn\,rlFRfE GALIMAFRE - A A chicken chicken stew stew from from GALLIMAUFRY. in his his book book le le Viandier, Viandier, gives mediaeval cookery. cookery. Taillevent, Taillevent, in mediaeval the following following recipe: recipe: the 'For gallimaufry, gallimaufry, take take roast roast chickens chickens or or capons, capons, cut cut them them 'For into sections, sections, and and afterwards afterwards fry fry them them in in bacon bacon or or goose goose fat. fat. into ground ginger, ginger, salt, salt, and, and, to to thicken thicken Add wine wine and and verjuice, verjuice, ground Add it, treacle-mustard.' treac1e-mustard.' it, 'Take a a leg leg of of mutton mutton freshly freshly Gallimaufry (old (old recipe) recipe) - 'Take Gallimaufry of onions. onions. cooked, and and chop chop it it as as finely finely as as possible possible in in a a dish dish of cooked, Stew these these ingredients ingredients with with a a little little verjuice, verjuice, butter, butter, and and Stew ground white white ginger, ginger, all all mixed mixed together together and and seasoned seasoned with with ground salt.' salt.' The word word gallimaufry gallimaufry is is now now used used in in a a disparaging disparaging sense, sense, The and means means a a badly badly cooked cooked stew stew made made from from scraps. scraps. and

GAME
NUT. NoD( NOIX DE cALI-E GALLE - Orientals OrientaIs eat a fleshy gall nut GALL IYUT.
ste'p to or pouch. From the word word gibeciire gibecire it was an obvious step carried', and it was not long the word wordgiDier,'that gibier, 'that which was carried', the language. established in the before the word was firmly established three categories. Game can be divided into three quail or the the thrush. the quai! L Small birds, not larger than the 1. into winged proper which which can can be be subdivided into 2. Game Game proper 2. pheasant, etc.) (woodcock, partridge, partridge, pheasant, game (woodcock, etc.) and and ground game and hare). game (wild rabbit and venison (roebuck, deer, and wild boar). 3. Large game or venison 3. and 'Game,'writes 'Game,' writes Brillat-Savarin, 'is a healthy, warming, and and easy easy to fit for for the the most most delicate palate and food, fit savoury food, can proan experienced cook, game can hands of an digest. In the hands digest. quality which raise the culinary art art vide dishes of the highest quality ofa science. level of a science. to the level game from from 'There is game of aIl types of game is game all sorts. sorts. Certain Certain types 'There game killed killed flavour as similar game P6rigord will not have the same flavour Prigord will make make dull dull near Paris will hare killed near a hare at Sologne. Whereas a at Dauphin6 or the the Burgundy the Haut Dauphin leveret from the a leveret eating, a any other of of district will be more deliciously flavoured than any its kind.' game, i.e. for most most game, i.e. a is a season for a In Britain Britain there there is a closed closed season In shot and killed. killed. Several Several birds be shot period when game may not be protected ail year round, round, including including blackbird, blackbird, are are protected all the the year swan, and and swift. rail, swan, bustard, cygnet, cygnet, heron, lapwing, lark, rail, game - Generally dieticians speaking, dieticians Generally speaking, Digestibility Digestibility of of game if it it has especially if the consumption consumption of game, especially advise against against the and may It can can be be extremely extremely toxic toxic and may for too too long. long. It been hung for putrefaction is is advanced. advanced. cause food poisoning if putrefaction is important important in moderation. Il It is eaten in Fresh game should be eaten fast is shot shot down down when moving fast to to remember remember that the quarry is possibility of causing activity causing of its muscular activity and and that there is is a a possibility gun pellet pellet wounds The gun in the the flesh. flesh. The lactic lactic acid acid to to form form in spread encourages the the spread increase the of this acid, acid, which which encourages the toxicity ofthis putrefaction. The immediately in of putrefaction. in the the latter begins almost The latter of almost immediately flesh of animaIs animals killed after long struggle. flesh after a a long struggle. particularly toxic and inintoxic and Game is particularly fowl left left uncleaned uncleaned is Game fowl digestible. digestible. pregame in larger game in an an effort effort to to preThe habit habit of marinating The marinating larger spread of of microbes. microbes. very slightly slightly the the spread serve serve it, it, reduces reduces only only very FUMET. Game fumet fumet See FUMET. - See

as

big as a lady-apple that grows on a species of sage. regions an edible edible type type of of gall gall nut grows on ground In other regions ivy.

- Liquid measure measure used in most English-speaking GALLON about 4| It is is equivalent equivalent to to about 41 litres (U.S. (U.S. gallon countries. It countries. J~ litres). litres). equals 3t equals GAMACHE - There is an episode episode in Don Quixote in which GAMACIfi the hero and his faithful Sancho attend the wedding feast of extraordinary number a wealthyfarmer wealthy farmer called Garnache. The The extraordinary called Gamache. led to the word gamache of dishes served at this repast has led being used to describe describe any similarly bountiful meal.
to a has givenits GAMAY - Village in Burgundywhich Burgundy which hasgiven its name toa GAMAY-Village prolffic vines vines in in vine. The is one one of the most prolific the most vine. The Petit gamay is

Burgundy. Although this this vine of as fine a quality as the vine is not of Burgundy. for their yield, Pinot, Gamay grapes are are much sought after for Pinot, which is always always fairly high. The grapes of of the Gamay vine are which used Pinot, but Pinot are used sometimes used with with those of but the Plnot of the Pinof, sometimes by themselves in the best wines. districts to the west of the Cte and in the BeauC6te d'Or and In districts jolais, Mdconnais, Mconnais, and Lyonnais districts, the grapes of the and Lyonnais quality. (See Gamay vine make wines excellent quality. wines of excellent vine make Gamay BURGUNDY.) BURGUNDY.)

of

partridge of central European origin. GAMBRA GAMBRA - Type of partridge (q.v.) may be partridge (q.v.) Ali All the recipes for for partridge be used used in in the the preparation of this bird.
GAME. GIBIER to ail all wild animaIs animals applies to cIBIER - The term game applies and and eaten. and birds which which are hunted and Gibier, the French game, cornes from gibecer for game, comes from word for French word Gibier, the which, in old French, meant hunting. Gibecer in turn derives This meaning hunchback. This from the Latin adjective adjective gibbosus, meaning word the various animais animals killed in the word was used used to describe the chase because, to carry home the game they killed, huntsmen were equipped equipped with a bag, pouch, or box which they usually carried on their backs. Thus equipped, they had the appearthey had ance From this this arose arose the the word word gibecer, of hunchbacks. From ance of followed gibecidre for for the the huntsman's bag followed by its derivative derivative gibecire by its

Game. Game. Painting Painting by Snyders by Frans Frans Snyders

405 40s

GAME BAG GAMEBAG

GAME BAG. CARNIER clnNrrn
-

Bag or net used to hold game.

sliced very verv thinly thinlv GAlVJE GAME CHIPS. CHIPS. CROUSTILLES cRousrILLEs - Potatoes sliced hot or cold. fried. They are served servod hot and fried. CHEESE. GAMMELOST - See CHEESE.

GANDER.

JARS - See

GOOSE. GOOSE.

found in the Pyrnes. Pyr6n6es. GANGA - Hazel-grouse found (7 oz., (Flemish pastry) 2A0 g. o2.,lf; GANTOIS li cups) Sieve 200 GAI\TOIS (Flemish e. (7 - Sieve (5 oz., g. (5 in the centre 150 150 g. o2.,3 ~ cup) flour onto a Place in the centre a table. Place flour (5 oz., g. (5 150 g. oz., generous ! butter, refined brown sugar, sugar, 150 i cup) butter, ground cinnamon, ! I teaspoon ground tea2 medium-sized eggs, eggs, 1 t teaground cloyes, salt, and and I teaspoon teaspoon bispoon ground cloves, a a pinch of salt, carbonate of soda. flour and and other other ingredients Knead ingredients are Knead, and and when when the the flour pahn of of the hand. with the the palm thoroughly work the dough dough with thoroughly mixed, work for 1 I hour. Leave to stand in a cool place for parts and out into and roll them out Divide into 5 roll them Divide the 5 parts dough into the dough (* inch) thick. Place on a buttered baking sheet rounds! rounds * cm. cm. (t and oven until until golden brown. Leave to and bake in a a moderate oyen cool cool on a wire cake tray. Spread each with a thin layer of greengage jam and place ofgreengagejam Trim, and and coyer cover the whole top of the them on top the other. other. Trim, them one one on (l oz., g. (1 apricot jam. Mix ~ix 25 g. completely with concentrated apricot (l oz., ig. (1 tablespoons) fine sugar, 25 g. 2 tablespoons) sugar, 25 f, cup) blanched and peel of I ground finely diced ground almonds, the finely 1 orange diced candied peel (approximately 2 tablespoons), I egg white. (approximately tablespoons), and 1 Cover the cake cake with this mixture, Coyer mixture, sprinkle sugar over it and brown in the oyen. oven. Leave to cool before serving. serving.

this will be this be sufficient. If pork is is used, a a little goose fat will enhance the the flavour. flavour. Cut stale wholemeal bread bread into into thin enhance Cut stale add to the stock and vegetables. slices and add 'The mixture mixture must thick enough enough for the ladle 'The must be thick ladle to stand up in it when set in the centre of the tureen. possible to make a good garbure tribuc,bnt 'It is possible garbure without trbuc, but cold Id water a piece of in that case it is necessary to put in the co sausage, or, ot, at the very least, lean bacon ham bone, bone, or a sausage, bacon (thin green cabbage. flank). White White cabbage may be used instead instead of of green 'For an everyday 'For garbure, it is usual to make make do with with a piece everyday garbure,it of bacon or ham, or bacon chopped with crushed garlic. season, a a few slices of pink swede swede or roast 'According to to season, chestnuts are added. In win chestnuts ter, dried beans only being winter, being availThey must have to able be cooked must be able, these these have to be cooked in in advance. advance. They drained after after cooking, cooking, as as their their water destroy the drai~ed water would would destroy garbure. To thicken characteristic flavour of the garbure. characteristic thicken the broth, sometimes crushed through a sieve. the beans beans are sometimes crushed and rubbed through is served separately separately from from the broth, either by 'The meat is itself or with the vegetables, like the boiled beef of a hotpot. hotpot. itself beef of putting it in the Some cooks cooks brown tribuc in a pan before brown the trbuc before putting Sorne added, but the stock. In this this case the necessary fat must be be added, which the the trbuc tribuc was browned should not be used. fat in which is an an indispensable finish to every 'A good goudale (q.v.) is garbure.'

GAPERON Limasne which can be eaten GAPERON eaten from - Cheese from Limagne September to July. September

GARBANZOS or GARV GARVANCE GARBANZOS ANCE Spanish name for chickchick- Spanish peas. have rather a a tough pulp and and should be be preThese peas have other dried overnight in cold dried vegetables by soaking soaking overnight pared like other water. Serve them with or without meat in the same way as haricot beans. are an an essential essential ingredient Garbanzos are ingredient of alla podrida, a olla podrida, is one of the most characteristic dishes of Spain. stew that is
B6arnais district. The name also GARBURE - Broth of the Barnais applies to to many Their common applies many other other broths and and soups. soups. Their characteristics are are the slices of bread covered covered with with various simmered in fat in savoury spreads, browned in the oyen oven or simmered and served with the soup. the stockpot, and Biarn writes: writes: Cuisine en Barn Simin Palay in his book la Cuisi,!e gorbe fromi The root is surely garbe 'Where does this term come from? (a sheaf or bunch). It is a bunch ofvegetables of vegetables which provides the basic stock of the garbure: cabbage, thyme, garlic, parsley, marjoram, marjoram, French beans, peas ... . . . Moreover Moreover (in Barn), B6arn), the term garburatye is used for any the any collection collection or mixture of greur vegetables. fresh green fresh pot glazed glazd on in an 'Boil water in an earthenware pot on the inside delicacy of cast iron or iron pots spoil the delicacy of the flavour. When peeled and it is boiling, throw in potatoes, peeled and cut cut into into thick throw in it is haricot or broad slices. Add other fresh vegetables in season: haricot pepper. peas, or French beans. Season with salt and pepper. beans, beans peas place of white. pepper may Red ~eppe; used in may be be used in place Red white. Flavour with of thyme, parsley or ~resh fresh marjoram. marjoram. Leave !o to garlic, a sprig of cook, making sure that the water IS is ~onstantly constantly on the boil. bOl!. cook, possible into strips, finely-as Shred tender green cabbage as finely as possible Ieaves, after having removed cutting across the width of the leaves, such portions as are too tough. ingredients are are thoroughly cooked, 'Once the rest rest of the ingredients throw the cabbage into the boiling stock. Coyer Cover the pot to green and, 30 minutes keep the serving, cabbage leaves green the cabbage minutes before before serving, keep put in a piece of of pickled meat: lou trbuc; tribuc; the fat adhering to

Garde-manger Garde-manger made with wire-mesh made

Storage place, cool and well-aired, in GARDE-MANGER GARDE-MANGER - Storage where the food required for the preparalarge eating-houses, eating-houses, where tion of refrigerators in of meals is kept. There are ice chests or refrigerators g&me, fish, and other proviwhich which are stored meat, poultry, game, sions. preparatory all the prepara The cold tory cold buffet is prepared here, here, and ail jointing work done on such as foodstuffs, such work raw foodstuffs, on raw as boning and jointing meat, drawing and trussing poultry, and gutting fish. The name is is also also used used in in France to designate the The to designate the man duty of the work ofa whose special dut y it is to supervise this part of of a large kitchen. kitchen. The word can also mean an ordinary larder.

GARDEN WARBLER. WARBLER. BECFIGUE BEcFIcITE Bird found found in GARDEN in great - Bird numbers in the south of France, particularly in Provence. Provence. It is called bguinette biguinette locally. Its Its French French name becfigue dates is harvest in Roman back to the fig fig harvest Roman times. garden warbler praised by Brillat-Savarin. warbler was greatly praised The garden He said said that this this bird, "gets as robins and 'gets at least as plump as ortolans, and nature has given its flesh a slight bitterness bitterness and ortolans, a unique unique flavour which are are so so exquisite that that they they engage, a engage,

406

GARLIC GARLIC
gratify, and and stimulate stimulate all all the the degustatory degustatory powers. powers. If If the the gratify, garden warbler warbler were were the the size size of of a a pheasant pheasant it it would would certainly certainly garden be worth worth the the price price of of an an acre acre of of land.' land.' be There are are a a number number of of recipes recipes for for preparing preparing these these little There birds in in addition addition to to the the recipes recipes given given for for ortolans ortolans (q.v.). (q.v.). birds Garden warblers warblers i I'arlesienne. l'arlsienne. BEcFIcUES BECFIGUES A r'lnr6srnNNEL'ARLSIENNEGarden Fill the the middle middle of of a a round round loaf loaf of bread bread which which has has been been Fill hollowed out out like like a a uoustade croustade (q.v.), buttered buttered and baked baked in hollowed the oven, oven, with with St St George's George's agarics (see (see AGARIC), briskly briskly the sauted in in butter. butter. saut6ed On the the mushrooms mushrooms put 6 drawn and and trussed trussed warblers. On Season with with salt salt and and pepper. Sprinkle with melted butter. butter. Season Cook quickly quickly in in a a very very hot oven oven and and serve in in the the bread Cook croustade. croustade. Pour over over the the birds birds the butter butter in which which they were browned, browned, Pour adding a little little flamed ftamed brandy to it. il. Cook in a very hot oven adding in the same dish. dish. and serve in like Roast garden garden warblers. BEcFIGUES BECFIGUES n6us RTIS Roast - Prepare like Roast orto/ans (see ORTOLAN). Roast ortolans

dry, lean sea eel, eel, has GARFISH. oRPHIE ORPHIE - The has dry, The garfish, or sea GARFISH. (q.v.). eel (q.v.). Prepare like eel ftesh, poisonous at certain times. times. Prepare flesh,
a third-rate restaurant, with GARGOTE GARC'OTE - French term for a used being called the gargotier. Gargote is also used its proprietor being colloquially to describe bad cooking. describe bad

its strong strong plant, distinguished by its GARLIC. AIL A.Ir GARLIC. - Perennial plant, poor man man3 called poor It is is also also called smell, cultivated for its 's its bulb. bulb. It cultivated for smell,
districts ('garlic herb'). In country districts theriac and and herbe aux aulx ('garlic powerful anthelmintic anthelmintic very powerful sorne a very some people consider garlic as a and an antifebrile. antifebrile. and also as as an garlic to eat eat garlic Aristophanes used to athletes used the athletes that the wrote that Aristophanes wrote garlic is is that garlic said that Virgil said stadium. VirgiJ the stadium. exercises at the before their exercises reapers. harvest reapers. tain the the right of harvest the strength strength of to main maintain right food food to the garlic is for is a a cure cure for Pliny, that garlic maintained that naturalist, maintained the naturalist, Pliny, the Hippocrates consumption. Celsius for fever. fever. Hippocrates cure for it as as a a cure cited it Celsius cited 'garlic is is classed adds: 'garlic and adds: drugs and sudorific drugs the sudorific among the classed garlic among Dieyes.' Dihot, for the the eyes.' it is is bad bad for but it diuretic, but laxative, and and diuretic, hot, laxative, an anthelmintic anthelmintic oscorides as an favour as in its its favour case in strong case a strong oscorides made a (a (a cure worms). intestinal worms). cure for intestinal The prophet id : 'In and bites bites 'In cases stings and cases of of stings said: prophet Mohammed Mohammed sa to the the by poisonous animaIs, Applied to garlic acts as a a theriac. theriac. Applied acts as animals, garlic produces sucsucspot it produces of scorpion, scorpion, it sting of or sting viper, or by viper, spot bitten bitten by of cessful bites of garlic is against bites is used used against In Cayenne results.' In Cayenne garlic cessful results.' certain snakes. certain snakes. published in In n 1792, 1792, naturelle published d'histoire naturelle his Elments Eliments d'histoire In his plague'. Millin 'garlic is the plague'. preventive against against the is a a preventive that'garlic Millin claimed claimed that Bernardin is which is smell of of which 'Garlic, the the smell said: 'Garlic, de Saint-Pierre Saint-Pierre said: Bernardin de so perhaps the the most most is perhaps mistresses, is little mistresses, our little by our so dreaded dreaded by powerful nerand nervapours and the vapours against the powerful remedy in existence existence against remedy in vous subject.' are subject.' they are which they to which vous maladies maladies to In F6lix Dr Flix says Dr doctors, says certain doctors, century, certain In the the sixteenth sixteenth century, Brmond 'condemned themthemtable,'condemned de la la table, Dictionnaire de his Dictionnaire Br6mond in in his garlic in selves their in their of garlic cloves of several cloves of several carrying of to constant constant carrying selves to pockets patients, from from the the their patients, and their protect themselves, pockets to themselves, and to protect bad diseases.' epidemic diseases.' air and and epidemic bad air

Garden warbler Garden warbler

Brown buttef. sizzling butter. in sizz!ing Brown briskly briskly in Line layer of gratin jorcemeat d gratin of with aalayer dish with Line an an ovenproof ovenproof dish forcemeat (see FORCEMEA T) and put pressing them them (see FORCEMEAT) and put the on this, this, pressing the birds birds on down into the forcemeat. Cover them with a few tablespoons down into the forcemeat. Cover them with a few tablespoons of a fine in butter. butter. (q.v.) of tossed in of mushrooms mushrooms tossed salpicon (q.v.) fine salpicon of .a Sp;inkle and brandy and of fine fine Champagne Champagne brandy few drops drops of with a a few Spiinkle with 2 hot in aa hot (3 tablespoons) Cook in butter. Cook melted butter. tablespoons) melted 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 oven. oven. Garden A LA I-.q, LANDAISE LeNnnlse -BEcFlcuEs landaise. BECFIGUES i la la landaise. warblers Garden warblers Wrap warbler in a vine leaf and a thin rasher of bacon, Wrap each each warbler in a vine leaf and a thin rasher of bacon, and put them on metal skewers, 3 birds to a skewer, separa ted and put them on metal skewers, 3 birds to a skewer, separated from in butter. butter. fried in lightly fried of bread bread lightly cro0tons of other by by crotons from each each other Place them in a long fireproof dish, season with salt and Place them in a long fireproof dish, season with salt and pepper, gras fat. Cook quickly or joie pepper, spnnkle butter or sprinkle with with butter foie gras fat' Cook quickly in pour over little birds aa !ittle over the the birds cooked, pour oven. When When cooked, hot oven. in a a hot Armagnac, grapes and peeled grapes and fresh peeled previously heated, heated, with with fresh Armagnac, previously 1 teaspoon dissolved jelly added it. to il. added to meat jelly I teaspoon dissolved meat Garden warbler la pimontaise. BECFIGUES LA PIMONGarden warbler I la pi6montaise. BEcFIGUES A r,c, ptfMoxTAISE- Heat butter in asautpan and Iightly brown blanched, rAIsE-Heat butterina sautepan and lightly brown blanched, drained, fat, In the same fat, the same of bacon. bacon.In rashers of shredded rashers drained, and and shredded sizzling hot, cook the warblers. sizzling hot, cook the warblers. Arrange birds in a pie dish or timbale on a foundation Arrange the the birds in a pie dish or timbale on a foundation of juices pan juices (q.v.) with Dilute the thepan with truffies. truffies. Dilute of smooth smooth risotto risotto (q.v.) with a Iittle Madeira, thickened few tablespoons tablespoons thickened addaa few with a little Madeira, add brown veal pour over the birds. birds. over the stock and and pour brown veal stock Garden warblers la polenta (called nnc(called i la romaine). BEClr romaine). polenta la warblers i Garden LA ROMAINE - Put a fairly stiff layer of FIGUES LA POLENTA, FrcuEs A u poreNrA, A lA noMNNs - Put a fairly stiff layer of polenta (q.v.) with cheese into an ovenproof dish. With the polenta (q.v.) with cheese into an ovenproof dish. With the back of a wet spoon press as many hollows in trus layer of back of a wet spoon press as many hollows in this layer of polenta as there are birds. Into garden putaagarden hollow put eachhollow polenta as there are birds. Into each warbler which has been briskly tossed in butter. warbler which has been briskly tossed in butter. 407 407

gras the size of pinn FABRlpiece of of jOie FABRI - Put Put a a piece A LA r.l FAON rlgoN DU ou PRE foie gros the size of a warbler' piece of inside each each warbler. truffie, inside a piece of truille, studded with with a a walnut, walnut, studded

Garden BEcFIGUES of Father Father Fabri. Fabri. BECFIGUES manner of warblers in in the the manner Garden warblers

Garlie

GARNISHES GARNISHES
Garlfu butter, butter. BEURRE BEURRE D'AIL D'ArL -- This This butter, butter, which which is is used used in Garlic in sauces, forcemeats, forcemeats, or preparation of or in in the the preparation of cold cold horshorssauces, d'euvre, is pounding together is made made by by pounding peeled, together 4 4 cloves cloves of of peeled, d'uvre, blanched and garlic and and drained drained garlic (4 oz., g. (4 100 g. and 100 oz., i] cup) cup) fresh fresh blanched butter. Pass Pass the the mixture mixture through through a sieve. a fine fine sieve. butter. Garlfo capons. capons. CHAPONS cHApoNs A L'AU, r'nn -- Crusts Crusts of of bread bread rubbed rubbed Garlic garlic, seasoned with raw raw garlic, seasoned with with oil, oil, vinegar, vinegar, salt, pepper, salt, and and pepper, with green salads. and added added to to green salads. and Garlic forcemeat. forcemeat. FARCE FARcE D'AIL D'ArL -- Used preparation for the Used for the preparation Garlic ofcold hors-d'euvre and and varous various other other dishes. dishes. pound Pound equal equal of cold hors-d'uvre quantities of ofyolks ofhard-boiled eggs and and blanched blanched c10ves cloves quantities yolks of hard-boiled eggs garlic in of garlic in a a mortar. mortar. Add Add to to this this mixture mixture half half its its volume volume of of of fresh butter, butter, blend, blend, and and rub rub through through a a fine fine sieve. sieve. fresh garlic. AIL Grated garlic. .q,tr RPE nApE -- Garlic grated or Garlic is is usuaJly usually grated Grsted or pounded in in a a mortar. mortar. Jt It is is added great number added to to a a great number of of dishes. dishes. pounded When added added as as a a condiment condiment to to Ingredients ingredients fried fried in in butter, butter, When cooking fat fat or or oil, oil, do do not not alJow allow it it to to fry, fry, as as this this would would render render cooking just before pungent. Add the dishes dishes too too pungent. Add it it just before serving. serving. the The expression expression pointe d'ail d'ail means means the the very quantity very small small quantity The grated garlic garlic which of grated which can can be held on point of be held a point of a on a a knife. knife. of Garlic oil. uulrn D'AIL oil. HUILE D'ArL -- Blanch Blanch and and drain drain 15 15 cloves cloves of of Garlic garlic, _and pound in in a a mortar mortar to paste. Add to a fine paste. (+ a fine Add 3 dl. (} 3 dl. garlic, and pound pint, li lf cups) cups) olive olive oil. oil. Sieve Sieve through a a muslin muslin c1oth. cloth. pint, This oil oil is is used for seasoning seasoning salads. salads. IL It can can also also be be made by by This grated garlie garlic to olive adding grated olive ail, oil, whieh which is then sieved sieved through adding a cloth, cloth. a pouDRE D'AIL D'ArL -- Dry peeled garlic cloves cloves Powdered garlic. POUDRE slowly in an oven. When When tbey they are are quite dry, pound them them in a slowly a put to and put to dry dry once once again again in in the the oven. oven. Pound them them mortar and reduced to a fine fine powder. Pass through a again until they are redueed a sieve. Pound the pieces left in the pieces in the the sieve sieve and and sift once more. sieve. jars, seal, powder into jars, Put lhis this powder seal, and and keep in in a a dry dry place. prr6e. pun6r Garlic pure. D'ArL garlic and cloves of garlic Garlic PURE D'AIL - Blanch cloves and cook them in butter butter in a covered pan. Add a few tablespoons cook very (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Bleild Bleird and and pass very thick thick Bichamel Bchamel sauce (see through through a sieve. and forcemeats. This pur6e pure is used used in certain sauces and forcemeats. Garlfo sarce. SAUCE sAUcE A sometimes used L'Arr L'AIL Name sometimes used to Garlic sauce. - Name describe describe aloli aoli (q.v.). (q.v.). Garlic sor.ipE A Garlic sotp. soup. SOUPE L'AIL L'AIL - This soup, the recipe recipe for for which will will be be found under SOUPS SOUPS AND AND BROTHS, is very very popular in in the south of of France. France. Garlic south-west of Garlic toast. toast. ndrn RTIE A r'ArL L'AIL - Speciality of of the soulh-west France. France. Lightly Lightly toast slices slices of of wholemeal bread. Spread them them with Garlic Garlic purie, pure, sprinkle sprinkle with with grated grated breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and olive olive oil, and brown brown briskly in in the oven. oven.

Certain garnishes are Certain composite composite garnishes are often often caUed called ragots ragoitts (financire, Godard, Toulouse, Toulouse, etc.). parts of etc.). The The various various parts of ffinancidre, Godard, these generally arrange<! these are are generally arranged separately separately around around the the dish dish but but they they may may also also be mixed. be mixed.
GARNITURES GARNITURSS -_

ARRANGEMENT ARRANGEMENT OF OF GARNISHES. GARNISHES. DRESSAGE DRESSAGE DES DEs

important important to to French French caisine. cuisine. They are sometimes somelimes named named
after after the the man man who who originated orginated them, them, or after after an occasion, or after after a a place, place, etc. etc. Garnishes Garnishes consist consist of of various various trimmings trimmings added to a dish dsh or or placed placed around around meat, meat, chicken, cbicken, fish, fish, etc., etc., or served served at the the same same time time on on a a separate separate dish. dish. Some Some garnishes garnishcs are are complicomplicated cated and and are are made made only only by by professionals; professionals; others others are are easily easily produced produced in in the the domestic domestic kitchen. kitchen. Garnishes Garnshes must must always always blend blend with with the lhe flavour fiavour of of the the basic basic dish. dish. They They may may consist consist of of one one or or several several elements, elements, dnd and are are termed lermed simple simple or or composite. composite. Simple Simple garnishes. garnishes. These These consist consisl of of a a single single element, element, most most commonly commonty a a vegetable, vegetable, braised, hraised, saut6ed, sauted, or or bound bound with with butter; butter; a a cereal cereal (rice, (rice, etc.); etc.); or or a a farinaceous farinaceous food food (tart, (tart, crofiton, croton, etc.). etc.). Composite Composite garnishes. garnishes. These These are are made made from from a a number number of of ingredients, ingredients, varying varyng according according to to the the basic basic dish. dish. The The ingredients ingredients must must blend blend in in flavour fiavour with with the the main main dish dish and and with with one one another. another.
408 408

GARNISIIES. GARNISHES. c,c,RMruREs GARNITURES - Garnishes are numerous numerous and

For For large poultry, garne large cuts game -- If cuts of of meat, meat, poultry, If there there is no risk risk of of is no their their being being spoih spoilt by the stock stock or gravy of by the or gravy of the the main main dish, dish, the the garnishes should garnishes should he be disposed disposed round round the the main main dish dish in in separate separate groups. groups. The The main main meat meat should should never never be be completely completely hidden hidden by by the the garnish. If gamish. If the the meat is small, small, it meat is it is is advisable advisable to to raise raise it it on on a a croton cro0ton of fried bread of fried bread or or sorne some other other foundation. foundation. This type of arrangement, beiog somewhat complicated, -This type of arrangement, being somewhat complicated, snould shbuld be be used used only only for for formai formal banquets banquets wbere where dishes dilhes are are presented to presented guest and to each each guest and served served by by a a waiter, waiter, and and is is only only appropria te to appropriate garnishes made to certain certain garnishes large number up of of a made up a large number of ch as of ingredients, ingredients, su such as financire, Godard, Toulouse, Toulouse, or or financiire, Godard, Tortue. Tortue. joints are To To faciltate facilitate serving, serving, large hot hot joints are often often served served to the to the guests already guests already carved. carved. Gravy garnishes are Gravy and and garnishes are served served separately separately at at the same same time. Certain Certain vegetable garnishes garnishes are are always always served served separately. separately. This This applies especially to purdes of to pures of. vegetables vegetables or dried vegetables, vegetables, to greeNr vegetables in to green in buuer, butter, which which would would become limp in in the the stock stock or gravy of of the the main dish, dish, and (rice, semolina, and to to pastas and and cereals cereals (rice, semolina, etc.). etc.). The stocks, gravies, and sauces appropriate garnish appropriate to each each garuish are are listed under the the various garnishes. The dressing should be very lightly sprinkled over the main dish. The remainder is is served served in a a sauceboat. Garnishes set the main main dish be set out out round round the dish should should not not be sprinkled sprinkled with with dressing, dressing, especially especially those those made made of of fresh vegetables with butter, butter, those lhose served au gratin, or any an gratin, any deep~ deepfried garnish. galllish. fried have the dressing dressing poured Braised vegetables vegetables only should have over them. tbem. in individual portions: cutlets, cutlets. e*alopeg escalopes, meat served served in For meat noisettes, noisettes, medalliom, medallions, smell small filletg Mets, fillet fi Il et steaks, of steakg suprme mprGme of chicken, surtfi sauted chicken - Apart from certain special dishes, dishes, chicken, chicken drawn under the appropriate beading, to which attention is drawn appropriate heading, these small small cuts cuts of meat meat may be be served served with with any any of the the these garnishes garnishes indicated iodicated for large cuts. Jt is advisable to 10 prepare the garnishes garnishes in smaller shapes shapes It quantties so that that they they may may be be in better beller proportion proportion to to the and quantities individual portions. portions. All placed around or along the Ali the the garnishes garoishes should be placed of the the main dish. If If saut6ed, sauted, these these portions portions should be be sides of served with with their their own own cooking cookingliquid. For grills grills it it is is preferable preferable served liquid. For to to serve serve a separate separa le sauce. sauce. The The garnishes garnishes of of individual individual portions portions may may be be served with sauce or or not, not, according according to to the the principles principles applicable applcable to 1O large large sau@ cuts. cuts. of the the ingredients ingredients and arrangearrangeFor coH cold dishes dishes - Details Details of For ment of ofgarnishes gamishes for for these these dishes dishes are are given given under under the the heading heading ment COLD FOODSTUFFS. FOODSTUFFS. COLD quanlities of of garnish garnish to 10 be be used used depend depend upon upon the the The quantities main dish, dish, but hut they lhey vary vary also also according accordng to to the the menu menu as as a a main whole. The The various various ingredients Ingredients of of a a composite composite garnish gamish must must whole. be sufficient sufficient in in number number to to serve serve all ail the the guests. guests. The The quantities quantities be used in in the the preparation preparation of of garnishes, garnishes, whether whether simple simple or or used composite, should should be be calculated calculated at at approximately approximately 100 100 g. g. composite, (4 (4 oz.) oz.) for [or each each guest. guesl. For soups soups and and broths broths - These These garnishes garnishes may may consist consist of of a a For single item item or or may may be be composite. composite. Some, Sorne, such such as as tapioca lapioca and and single othersimilar similaringredients, Ingredients, are arecookod cookoo in in the the soup soupitself. itself. Others Others other are are prepared prepared separately separately and and added added to to the the soup soup at at the the last last moment, or, or, where where appropriate, appropriate, served served separately. scparately. moment,
Driedfruits frui ~~and a nd nuts: nUl~: hazelnuts, hazeinulS.walnuts, wal nu lS.dried d liedbananas, bananas, Dried apricoIs,almonds, aJmonds.currants, curranlS.sultanas, suh~nas.dates, dales.pean, pcar~.figs, gs,raisins, raisins. apricots, apples,prunes, prunl:S. peacbes peaches(Htdiard. (Hi!diard. Phot. Phol. Larousse) Jrousse) apples,

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SIMPLE sMpLEs SIMPLE GARNISHES. GARNISHES. cenNrruRns GARNITURES SIMPLES For meat meat dishes disbesArtichokes. sauteed. Artichokes. Hearts or quarters: stewed; braised; sauted. Hearts: stuffed, sprinkled and browned; sprinkled with breadcrumbs and browned; pur6ed. pured. Artichokes, Jerusalem. Saut6ed;. in cream. cream. Aubergines. Stuffed, Stuffed, sprinkled sprinkled with with breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and browned in cream. cream. Broad Broad beans beans (fresh). (fresh). In butter; in cream; pur6ed. pured. Brussels Brussels sprouts. Saut6ed. Sauted. Cabbage (grem or red). Braised; Braised; stuffed with forcemeat and rolled rolled into balls; stuffed with small slices of meat and rolled rolled into sausages. sa usages. Carrots (glazeQ.ln (glazed). In gravy; with Vichy sauce. Carrots Cauliflower. Saut6ed; Sauted; coated coated with Mornay sauce; sauce; in Cauliflower. florets sprinkled sprinkled with with breadcrumbs and browned. florets ce/eriac. Stewed; braised. braised. Celery or celeriac. Cpes. A ta la bordelaise; bordelaise; with chopped chopped herbs; herbs; Cipes. d la la provengale; with cream. cream. venale; with braised. Chestnuts. Stewed; braised. Corn on on the cob.In cob. In butter; in crea4. Corn Cucumbers. Cut pear-shaped, stewed in butter; in thick Cucumbers. slices, stuffed. stuffed. Endive. Braised; Braised; in butter; in cream. cream. Endive. Fennel (bulbous). (bulbous). Braised Braised; Fennel ; stewed. French beans.ln beans. In butter; butter; in cream; cream; pur6ed. pured. French Fungi. Cultivatod Cultivated mushrooms, mushrooms, chanterelles, chanterelles, morels, flapFungi. mushrooms, St St George's agaric, orange-milk agaric, agaric, etc. etc. mushrooms, Sauted, and and cooked cooked in in various other other ways. Saut6ed, Gourd (pumpkin). (pumpkin). Quartered: Quartered: stewed in butter; braised; braised, Gourd stuffed; cooked in cream. cream. stuffed; Hop panicles. panic/es. In butter butter or cream. cream. Hop Kidney beans (fresh (fresh or or dried dried small).In small). In butter or cream; Kidney pured. pur6ed. In cream; cream; in in gravy. Ladies'fingers. In LentOs. ln In butter; pur6ed. pured. Lentils. Letluce. Braised Braised; stuffed. Lettuce. ; stuffed. Macaroni. Prepared in various ways. Macaroni. Mixed beans. beans. Mixture of French beans and small kidnev kidney Mixed beans, fresh fresh or or dried. dried. beans, Nood/es and and other other pasta pasla of the lhe same same type. type. Prepared in Noodles various ways. ways. various Onions. Glazed Glazed; stuffed. Onions. ; stuffed. Peas. ). la la frangaise,' franaise; cooked cooked with lettuce lettuce leaves; 1eaves; d Ia la Peas. pure St St Germain. Germain. paysanne; pur6e paysanne; Boiled; Anna; Anna; croquettes; croquettes; fondantes; fondantes; fried fried in Polaloes. Boiled; Potatoes. various ways; ways; covered covered with breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and browned; browned; various fried with with minced minced onions onions previously previously browned; browned; shaped as as fried nuts and and browned browned in in butter; butter; parisienne; parisienne; sprinkled with nuts parsley. parsley. Red beans. beans. ) la la bourguignonne; bourguignonne; in in gravy; pur6ed. pured. Red Rice. Cooked Cooked in in fat; fat; curried; curried; pilaf; pilaf; risotto risotto croquettes; croquettes; in in Rice. cream. cream. Spinach. Whole Whole leaves leaves or or as as a a pur6e; pure; in in butter; butter; in in cream; cream; Spinach. in stock. stock. in Tomaloes. Stuffed Stuffed in in various various ways, ways, sprinkled sprinkled with with cheese cheese Tomatoes. and/or breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and browned; browned; grilled; grilled; saut6ed. sauted. and/or Glazed; stuffed. Turnips. Glazed ; stuffed. In butter; butter; d la la bretonne; bretonne; in in cream; cream; in in stock; stock; White beans. ln la la maitre matre d'h6tel; d'htel; pur6ed. pured. d For poultry pooltry For Artichokes. Hearts Hearts or or quartered quartered whole whole artichokes: artichokes: stewed, stewed, Artichokes. or saut6ed sauted for for pot-roasted pot-roasted poultry; poultry; saut6ed sauted or braised, or braised, cooked in in a a casserole casserole for for drumsticks drumsticks or or breasts breasts of of poultry. poultry. cooked Hearts: in in cream cream for for pot-roasted, pot-roasted, poached, poached, or or sautEed sauted Hearts: for drumsticks drumsticks or or breasts breasts of of poultry; stuffed stuffed for for poultry, for or pot-roasted pot-roasted poultry; poultry; braisod in white stock stock for braised or poached poultry. poultry. poached
braised or Cipes. For For braised or pot-roasted poultry, saut6ed ken casserole, for drumsticks or breasts of chicken or or chic chicken

poultry.
Chestnuls. Chestnuts. Braised or or stewed stewed for for braised braised or or pot-roasted chic ken, for braised or chicken, for braised or pot-roasted young turkey, turkey, for for potroasted roasted pigeon. pot-roasted, or Lettuce. Braised Lettuce. for braised, Braised for braised, pot-roasted, or poached chicken, braised or pot-roasted young young turkey, braised or chicken, braised or potroasted pigeon. Mushrooms. Mushrooms. Cooked in a forpoached poultry, a white stock for for breasts of poultry; poultry; cooked in a for drumsticks drumsticks or or breasts a brown stock braised, pot-roasted, pot-roasted, sauted, saut6ed, or stock for for braised, or casseroled poultry, drumsticks poultry, pot-roasted drumsticks or or breasts breasts of of poultry, pigeon, nOll-f()astoo pot-roasted guinea-fowl. guinea-fowl. pasta. For Noodles and and other other pasta. For braised braised or or pot-roasted ken, "'AT-rtV""",.. poultry, sauted pot-roasted turkey. saut6ed or casseroled chic chicken, Pilaf With pot-roasted poultry, poultry, sauted Pilaf. With pot-roasted saut6ed or or cassel'olex! casseroled chicken, drumsticks poultry, pot-roasted chicken, drumsticks or or breasts breasts of of poultry, turkey. Rice. Cooked in fat, poached poultry. Rrce. fat, for poached Risotto. For braised or pot-roasted poultry, poultry, chicken Risotto. For braised or pot-roasted sauted or cooked in saut6ed in a a casserole, drumsticks drumsticks or or breasts of poultry. for braised braised poultry poultry or Turnips. Glazed Glazd for or braised braised or or potroasted Nantes duckling. duckling. Vegelab/es (various). Glazed Vegetables (various). gravy or in gravy Glazod carrots carrots in or d la la Vichy; cauliflower sprinkled Vichy; cauliflower sprinkld with with cheese cheese and/or and/or breadcrumbs and browned; Sauerkraut .. braisd braised fennel; crumbs and browned: Sauerkraut; fennel; broad beans in in butter butter or glazd turnips; beans or cream; cream; glazed turnips; glazd onions; French beans beans in in butter butter or peas cooked in various French or cream; cream; peas ways; salsify salsify sauted ways; in cream; saut6ed tomatoes; saut6ed or or in cream; sauted these vegetables may Jerusalem artichokes Jerusalem artichokes in butter, etc. Ali All these be served served with braised, pot-roasted, or poached poultry. poultry, be with braised, or poached sauted chicken chicken or saut6ed or chicken casserole, casserole, cutlets, cutlets, breasts, breasts, or fillets of chicken. Young corn on on the the cob. In butter butter or cream cream for braised, braised, potroasted, or or poached poached poultry, poultry, sauted breasts, roasted, saut6ed chicken, chicken, cutlets, cutlets, breasts, of poultry, pot-roasted guinea-fowl. guinea-fowl. or fillets of
por.rR OEUFS GARNISHES FOR FOR EGGS. EGGS. cARNrruRRs GARNITURES POUR GARNISHES oEUFs Like all al! other basic foods, foods, eggs, eggs, especially soft-boiled soft-boilod or the ordinary way or be served poached in the or in moulds, may be served a great variety of garnishes. Detailed recipes with a recipes for for those those garnjsh(~ and instructions for setting them out on garnishes setting thern on the the dish dish

are to be be found among among the the recipes recipes for for egg egg dishes (see EGGS). dishes (see EGGS).
porssoNs GARNISHES FOR FISH. FISH. cARNIrr.JREs GARNITURES por;R POUR POISSONS GARNISHES whole or in thick slices, sUces, is is garnished garnished according Braised fish, whole to the instructions instructions set set out for main main meat meat dishes. dishes. Poached fish fish (fish cooked cooked in in a a court-bouillon), Poached court-bouillon'), whole whole or is invariably garnished with boiled boiled or steamed sliced, is steamed potatoes and and fresh parsley. The The dressing is is a sauce of sorne toes a sauce some kind, served separately. separately. To To this trus standard garnish are are sometimes served sometimes

added further further ingredients ingredients such such as as very fish, added very small small fried fried fish, minute croquettes, or or shells shells filled filled with with various various garnishes, garnishes, etc. minute etc. Small fish, or fillets fillets poached in a a little court-bouillon, Small court-bouillon, are are served with various various garnishes, garnishes, simple simple or composite. composite. Details Details served of these these garnishes garnishes are are given with with the the recrpe recipe for for the the fish fish in of in question. Small f,sh fish and and their their garnishes garnishes are are normally nonnally covered Small covered with with sauce prescribed for for them, them, unless unless they they are are frid fried d la meunire sauce la meuniire or sprinkled sprinkled with with cheese cheese or or breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and browned. browned. or Grilled fish, fish, whole whole or or sliced, sliced, is is garnished as as a Grilled a rule rule with with boiled potatoes, slices slices of of lemon lemon cut eut with with a a fluted f1uted knife, knife, and and boiled fresh parsley. Some Sorne types types of of grilled fish fish have have special special gargarfresh nishes. Details of of these these are are given given with with the the recipe recipe for for the the fish in nishes. fish in question. question. Fried fish fish is is invariably invariably garnished garnished with with fried fried parsley parsley and and Fried halved or or quartered quartered lemons. lemons. halved

409 409
A gourmet gourmet spread: spread: duck duck d I'orange, l'orange, turbot, turbot, lobster, lobster, A and wines wines (Zasserre. (Lasserre. Phot. Phal. Nicolas) Nicolas) limbale Elyse. assorted assor1ed cheeses cheeses and timbaleElysbe,

GARNISHES
cARMruREs COMPOSESCOMPOSITE GARNISHES. GARNISHES. GARNITURES coMposfgs (potatoes whose pulp is dark potatoes (potatoes A l'africainePafricaine- Black potatoes colour look like marbles, bluish in colour A TOES), cut to look POTATOES), marbles, - see POT butter; braised blanched blanched in in salt salt water, water, and and cooked cooked in in butter; braised courgettes courgettes (zucchini). flavourod with Serve with rice cooked in fat stock lightly flavoured saffron. (q.v.) of pickled pickled tongue, mushAgns Agp&s Sorel Sord Salpicon (q.v.) - Salpicon and truffles, truffies, with little mounds of white rvhite rice. rooms, and blended with Madeira Madeira and a Sauce. Sauce. Stock of the main dish blended (see, SA Demi-glace sauce (see SAUCE). UCE). Uses. For large cuts of meat; poultry; eggs. Albigeoise Afbigeoise Potato croquettes prepared as as for for Duchess - Potato potatoes (see POT ATOES) mixed with lean chopped ham; POTATOES) (duxelles) small tomatoes stuffed with chopped mushrooms (duxel/es) small have been which fried in been fried which have in butter with chopped onion onion and garlic, and parsley. and chopped parsley. mixed with breadcrumbs, garlic, (see SAUCE) Sauce. Demi-glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE) flavoured flavoured with Sauce. tomato. tomato. Uses. For large and small cuts of meat. garnished Albufra shed with truffies truffles shaped Albuf6ra Small tartlets tartlets garni - Small with a a bali-scoop ball-scoop (the size of a a pea) and and chicken forcemeat and kidneys; mushrooms, and balls balls of the same shape. Cocks' Cocks' kidneys; slices of of pickled tongue shaped like cocks' combs combs are placed on top of each tartlet. (se SAUCE). SAUCE). Sauce. Sauce. Albufera sauce (see poached chicken. Chickens thus garnished are Uses. For poached gras and stuffed foie gras stuffed with with rice rice mixed mixed with with a a salpicon salpicon of foie and truffies. truffles. IAlgrienne Ng6rienne 1 small tomatoes - Sweet potato croquettes; small stewed in oil. tomato. Sauce. veal stock flavoured with tomato. Sauce. Clear veal Uses. For large or small cuts of meat; poultry. II- Croquettes of rice and sweet peppers; peppers; thick Algrienne Alg6rienne fi slices of aubergines. aubergines. veal stock flavoured with tomato. Sauce. tomato. Sauce. Clear veal poached Strasbourg Braised sauerkraut; sauerkraut; poached Alsacienne Alsacienne - Braised potatoes. sausages sa usages cut into rounds; boiled boiled potatoes. stockora thin Demi-glace sauce(see SAUCE). Sauce. Veal stock or a thin Demi-glace sauce (see SAUCE). goose and Uses. For large cuts of meat; poultry, especially especially goose duck. Ambassedrice saut6ed combs; cocks' cocks' kidneys; kidneys; sauted Ambassadrice Cocks' combs; - Cocks' saut6ed chicken livers; mushrooms; mushrooms; sauted livers; shredded shredded truffies. Madeira and Sauce. Sauce. Stock of the main dish blended blendod with Madeira thickened veal stock. Uses. For small cuts of meat and poultry. Amdricaine slices of of crayfish crayfish or or lobster lobster tails Amricaine ail slices Small - Sm d l'amricaine. I'amdricaine. cooked (se SAUCE) Sauce d l'amricaine I'amiricaine (see SAUCE) to to which which is Sauce. Sauce. Sauce added used for the main added the concentrated stock of the fish used l'amiricaine.) dish. (See BRILL, Brill d l'amricaine.) Uses. For fish. lamb truffies ; and truffles balls of ofchicken orcemea t balls chicken and b IForcemeat A l'ancienne I'ancienne 1 ; lam -F mushrooms; fresh olives; mushrooms; sweetbreads; sweetbreads; truffles truffies shaped like olives; crayfish crayfish cooked in a fish court-bouillon (q.v.). (se SAUCE) to sauce (see Sauce. has been Sauce. Suprme Suprme sauce to which has (mirepoix), flavoured pulp (mirepoix), fine vegetable vegetable pulp flavoured with added added a a fine Madeira. Madeira. poached or For ca sweetbreads; poached or braised braised Uses. Ives' sweetbreads; Uses. For calves' vol-au-vent; hot pdtds; poultry; vol-au-vent; pts; savoury tarts. A l'ancienne l'ancienne fi II Little savoury nests made of of fried Duchess - Little (see POTATOES) filled potatoes filled with with a a mixture of diced potatoes (see calves' in butter, butter, and calves' kidneys kidneys sauted saut6ed in and diced diced mushrooms, grary; stuffed th thickened veal bound with veal gravy; stuffed braised lettuce; bound wi potato balls in butter; beans in French beans small small potato browned in butter; French balls browned butter. butter. pot-roast juices. Sauce. Sauce. Braising liquor or pot-roast pot-roasted cuts Uses. large braised braised or Uses. For For large or pot-roasted cuts of of meat, of veal. saddle le of especially especially loin and sadd
410

Garnish il l'ancienne round a saddle ofveal

pastry boats garnished with Itr A l'ancienne I'ancienne ru Small pastry with a boats garnished - Small (see salpicon of of soft soft roes roes blended blended with wth Normande sauce (see salpicon Normande sauce SAUCE); truffles trufles trimmed to look like olives; mushrooms; mushrooms; freshwater crayfish cooked in a a court-bouillon. Sauce. Sauce. Reduced pan juices of the main dish blended with (se,e SA sauce (see Madeira-flavoured Velout Velouti sauce a UCE) based on a Madeira-flavoured SAUCE) fine vegetable fish stock and to which which a vegetable mirepoix mirepoix is fish and cream, to a fine added. poached fish. Uses. For baked or poached I A l'anglaise fangtaise 1 Carrots cut in 5-cm. 5-cm. (2-inch) lengths and - Carrots leg of of lamb; lamb; mashed cooked with medium-sized onions onions cooked with leg and mashed. turnips also cooked with leg of lamb, drained and (s* SAUCE) with capers in vinegar sauce (see Sauce. Butler sauce Sauce. Butter added, served separately. sep,arately. added, poached leg of lamb. Uses. For poached A l'anglaise II S-crn. (2-inch) langtaise fi - Carrots and turnips cut in 5-cm. lengths, cooked with chicken; chicken; celery celery hearts also cooked cooked with lengths, chicken; chicken; French beans and and cauliflower, cauliflower, boiled. (see SA SAUCE) Sauce. Butler sauce UCE) with capers in vinegar Sauce. Butter sauce (see (See CHICKEN, d added, added, served served separately. separately. (See CHICKEN, Chicken Chicken l'anglaise.) potatoes cut to look A l'Anversoise A I'Anversoise - Hop shoots in cream; potatoes artichoke hearts like olives like in butter. Or olives deep~fried deep-fried in Or small small artichoke chicory stewed in butter butter and filled with hop shoots in cream; chicory (endive) laflamande. (endive) dlaflamande. stock. veal stock. Sauce. Sauce. Juices from the roast or clear veal Uses. For large or sm ail cuts of meat; poultry. small (see POT POTATOES); A TOES); Armenonville Small Anna potatoes (see - Small morels in cream; and and tartlets filled with a salpicon of cocks' and kidneys. combs and calves' sweetbreads. Uses. For small pieces of meat; calves' quenelles ; mushrooms; mushrooms ; shredded A la h banquirebanquilre - Chicken quenelles; trufles. truffies. (According to the nature of the main dish, the ingredients separately or mixed in a of this garnish are either prepared separately rago,frt.) ragot.) SAUCE). Sauce. Banquire sauce (see SA UCE). Sauce, Banquiire poached or sweetbreads and Uses. Uses. For For calves' calves' sweetbreads and poultry poached blanc: vol-au-vent. braised vol-au-vent. d blanc; glazed carrots; saut6od in butter; glazeQ carrots; braised braised Batrix B6atrix - Morels sauted quartered artichokes; artichokes; browned new potatoes. cooking pan. Sauce. Sauce. Diluted meat juices from the cooking Uses. For small cuts of meat. ail artichoke A la Beauhamais small artichoke hearts filled with h Beauharnais - Very sm (se SA puree has Barnaise sauce (see UCE) to which tarragon pure Bdarnake SAUCE) been added; small potato balls browned in butter. main dish diluted with with Madeira Sauce. Sauce. Pan juices of the main . and veal stock, together with chopped truffles. truffies. and veal Uses. For small cuts of meat.

GARNISHES GARNISHES
Dispose these these vegetables round the vegetables round the main main dish dish in in separate separate Dispose groups. groups. Sauce. Juices Juices of of the roast. the roast. Sauce. [/ses. For For large large and and small small cuts cuts of of meat. meat. Uses. A la la bouquetire bouquetibre II II -- Very Very small small artichoke artichoke hearts hearts simmered simmered in butter, butter, filled filled alteroately alternately with with carrots carrots and and tumips; turnips; buttered in buttered French beans; beans; small small bunches bunches of of asparagus asparagus tips, tips, held held upright French upright by aa ring ring of of carrots; carrots; cauliflower cauliflower divided divided into into florets florets and by and covered with (see SAUCE); with Hollandaise Hollandaise sauce sauce (see potatoes cut SAUCE); potatoes cut covered to look look like like olives olives and and sauted saut6ed in in butter. butter. to Sauce. Juices Juices of of the the roast. roast. Sauce. Uses. For For large large and and small small cuts cuts of of meat. meat. Uses. (sometimes caUed A la la bourgeoise bourgeoise (sometimes called t la la mode) mode) -- Glazed Glazed carrots cut cut in in ovals, ovals, and and onions, onions, both both cooked cooked with with the the meaL meat. carrots Sometimes braised braised fresh fresh vegetables vegetables su such as celery, celery, lettuce, lettuce, ch as Sometimes etc., are are added. added. etc., Sauce. Braising Braising liquor liquor of of the the main main dish. dish. Sauce. Uses. For For large large braised braised cuts of meat, cuts of meat, notably notably beef beef rump rump Uses. braised (see BEEF), but d la la bourgeoise bourgeor'se (see garnish may this garnish but this may be braised be used with with braised (noix de braised ox ox tongue, tongue, veal veal (noix fu veau), veau), or used or leg leg of of lamb or or mutton. mutton. lamb A la ta bourguignonne bourguignonne 1 glazd onions; I -- Small Small glazed onions; whole whole or or quartered mushrooms sauted saut6ed in in butter; butter; diced, diced, blanched, quartered blanched, (pickled) pork. and browned salt salt (pickled) pork. and (see SAUCE). Sauce. Bourguignonne Bourguignonne sauce seuce (see SAUCE). This garnish, This garoish, Sauce. generally served served with with braised braised meat, meat, should should be be added generally added to to the dish a a short time before it is is completely completely cooked. main dish Uses. For large large cuts of of meat, meat, especially beef. Uses. A la bourguignonne bourguignonne II tr The same as garnish, as the previous garnish, - The without the pork. the pork. but without Sauce. Red wine sauce sauce made with vegetable or fish Sauce. fish stock a \ittle little fresh fresh butter added. with a Uses. For braised braised fish. Uses. A la la brabanonne brabangonne 1 IBraised chic chicory; ory ; Potato fondantes - Braised (see POTATOES). (see Sauce. Reduced veal veal stock. Sauce. Uses. Large cuts cuts of meat. A la la brabanonne brabangonne II II Little tartlets tartlets garnished garnished with - Little Brussels covered with Mornay Brussels sprouts simmered in butter, covered Mornay sauce (se SAUCE), sprinkled sprinkled with with breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and sauce (see SAUCE), browned croquettes. browned;; potato potato croquettes. Sauce. Sauce. Reduced Reduced veal stock. Uses. For large pieces of meat. meat. Brancas - Anna potatoes cooked in potatoes (see (see POTATOES) cooked individual moulds and turned out; olt; Chffinade Chiffonade of of lettuce lelluce with with crearn cream (see (see LETTUCE) LETTUCE) quite dry. dry. Sauce. Thickened veal stock stock or a Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce (see SAUCE). Uses. Uses. For For small small cuts cuts of of meat; meat; white white meat meat especially especially popltry. poultry. A la la bretonne bretonne I 1 - Dry white white beans beans or small kidney kidney beans, beans, cooked cooked in in meat meat stock stock and blended blended with Bretonne Bretonne sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Sauce. Sauce. Roast pan pan juices juices or veal veal stock stock flavoured flavoured with with tomato. tomato. Uses. Uses. For For large large cuts cuts of of meat meat (especially (especially leg leg of of lamb) lamb) potpotroasted roasted or or roasted. roasted. A h la bretonne bretonne II II - Breton Breton white white bean bean pur6e pure (see (see PUREE). PRE). Sauce. Sauce. Juices Juices of of the the roast. roast. Uses. Uses. For For large large cuts cuts of of meat. meat. A la la bretonne bretonne III ID - Leeks, Leeks, onions, onions, celery celery and and mushrooms, mushrooms, cut cut in in thin thin strips strips and and cooked cooked slowly slowly in in butter butter until until they they are are very added to to the the main main fish fish dish dish before before it it is is fully fully very tender, tender, and and added cooked. cooked. Sauce. Made with with a a Velouti Velout sauce sauce (sre (see SAUCE) SAUCE) and and Sauce. Made cream. cream. Uses. For baked baked or or poached poached fish. fish. Uses. For Brillat-Savarin ofDuchess Du ch esspotatoes potatoes (see (see Brillat-Savarin- Little Little nests nests made made of
411 411

Garnish Ba (Debillot. PMI. Blatrix Phot. Larousse) Larousse) Garnish triK (Debi/wl.

Beauvillien Small spinach spinach kromeskies (prepared by kromeskies (prepared by - Small Beauvilliers pancakes with filling pancakes spinach, rolling with spinach, rolling them them up, up, cutting cutting them them filling in rounds, rounds, dipping dipping them them in in batter batter and and frying frying them them in in deep deep in fat); small small tomatoes tomatoes stuffed stuffed with with cooked pur6e, cooked brain brain pure, fat); browned with with breadcrumbs; breadcrumbs; salsify salsify cut cut into into rounds, rounds, sauted saut6ed browned in butter. butter. in Sauce. Braising Braising stock. stock. Sauce. Uses. For For large large cuts cuts of of braised braised meat. meat. Uses. A la la bndictine b6n6dictine Very small small tartlets pastry boats tartlets or or pastry - Very garnished with with Brandade Brandade of of salt cod(see COD, Salt Salt cod) cod)with garnished salt cod (see COD, with chopped truffies trufres added. added. chopped (see SAUCE) Sauce. White White wine sauce (see wine sauce SAUCE) if if accompanying accompanying Sauce. fish; Cream Cream sauce sauce for for eggs. eggs. fish; Uses. For For fish poachod eggs. fish or or coddled coddled or or poached eggs. Uses. A la nerricnonne U Berrichonne cibbag"; sm smill onions; chest- Braised Braised cabbage; ail onions; nuts; rashers oflean oflean bacon. nuts; rashe bacon. Uses. For For meat, in big cuts. t meat, principally principally mutton, mutton, served served in big cuts. Uses. A la Biarrotte Grilled cipes and of Da cakes chess - Grilled cpes and cakes of Duchess potato la Biarrotte potato (see POTATOES) as a (see POTATOES) used used as a foundation foundation for for mear. meat. Uses. For For meat Uses. meat served served in in small small portions. portions. Bonne-femme small ovals. small Potatoes trimmed trimmed into into small ovals, small Bonne-femme I 1 - Potatoes onions, bacon and and mushrooms, mushrooms, cooked cooked with with onions, lean lean larding larding bacon chicken. chicken. Uses. For poultry. Uses. For poultry. Bonnefemme Bonne-femme tr II - Thinly Thinly sliced sliced mushrooms mushrooms cooked cooked with with fish. fish. Uses. For fish. fish. Uses. For A h la bordelaise bordelaise I 1- Cipes Cpes d la la bordelar'se bordelaise (see (see MUSHMUSHROOMS); ROOMS); potatoes potatoes cut cut to to look look like like olives olives and and cooked cooked slowlv slowly in in clarified c1arified butter. butter. Sauce. of the the roast. roast. Sauce. Juices Juices of Uses. Uses. For For large large joints. joints. A - Small Ia la bordelaise bordelaise tr 11Small quartered quartered artichokes artichokes stewed stewed in in butter; butter; raw, raw, thinly thinly sliced sliced potatoes potatoes saut6ed sauted in in butter; butter; fried fried onion onion rings; rings; fried fried parsley. parsley. Sauce. Sauce. Pan Pan juices juices of of main main dish dish diluted diluted with with white white wine wine and and veal or chicken chicken stock. stock. veal or Uses. For jointed jointed poultry. poultry. Uses. For A la la boulang0re boulangre - Thinly Thinly sliced sliced or or quartered quartered potatoes potatoes and and thinly cooked with with the the main main dish. dish. thinly sliced sliced onions, onions, cooked Sauce. Sauce. Juices Juices of of the the roast. roast. Uses. For shoulder, shoulder, leg, leg, and and other other cuts cuts of of mutton mutton and and Uses. For lamb; lamb; occasionally occasionally for for poultry. poultry. A la la bouqueti&re bouquetire I1- Glazed Glazed carrots carrots and and turnips turnips trimmed trimmed into or shaped shaped with with a a ball-scoop; bali-scoop; peas peas and and into very very small small ovals ovals or diced diced French French beans, beans, boiled boiled separately separately and and blended blended with with butter; butter; cauliflower cauliflower divided divided into into florets florets and and boiled, boiled, covered covered with SAUCE) or or melted melted butter; butter; new new with Hollandaise Hollandaise sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) potatoes in butter. butter. potatoes browned browned in

GARNISHES GARNISHES
gras and truffies truffles blended blended into a a foie gras

POTATOES) frid fried and and hollowed hollowed to to hold hold a a salpicon of POTATOES) concentrated Demiglace sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SA UCE). Asparagus Asparagus tipe tips can be arranged arranged on top. top. Sauce. TIin Thin demi-glace demi-glace sauce sauce for large cuts. Stock of the Satrce. flavoured with white Malaga wine, a a third veal main dish flavoured SAUCE), stock and Velout sauce (se (see SAUCE), and two-thirds chicken chicken Velouti cuts. for small cuts. U-ses. Uses. For large and small cuts of meat. meat. in butter; la bruxelloise - Brussels Brussels sprouts sprouts in butter; Potato Ah cut to (see POTATOES) POT ATOES) or or potatoes cut to look look like fondantes (see fondantes cooked slowly in clarified c1arified butter. butter. olives and cookod (see saace (see Sauce. Clear veal veal stock stock or or thin thn Demi-glace sauce Sauce. SAUCE). meat. and small cuts of meat. Uses. For large and pure (see (see Camdrani - Small tartlets filled with Foie gras purie shredded trufles; truffles; slices of of pickled tongue shaped PUREE); shredded MACAROND. Macaroni d l'italienne as cocks'combs; cocks' combs; Macaroni I'italienne (see MACARONI). as Suprme sauce (see SAUCE) to which the reduced Sauce. SuprAme been added. added. pan juices have bee,n Ives' sweetbreads. calves' Uses. Poultry and poached ca h la cancalaise and shrimps' oysters and A cancelaise - Lenten garnish of oysters (se SAUCE). Normande sauce (see tails in Normande la little coquilles garnish of little coquilles cardinal; Fish garnish A h cardinal - Fish mushrooms; slices of truffie. truffle. mushrooms; carrot timbales. timbales. PETITS - Bu ttered Little carrot Buttered PETITS PAINS PATNS DE CAROTTES cARorrnsLitfle custard as dariole moulds filled with carrots prepared as custard cups or dariole for Carrot timbale moderate oven timbale (see CARROT). Cook in a mCloel:ate in a pan of hot water or bain-marie. Castiglione with risotto mixed filled with - Large mushrooms filled with and ham, sprinkled with with breadcrumbs and lean ham, choppod lean with chopped (to be browned; rounds of aubergine sauted be used saut6ed in in butter (to browned; as bone-marrow. as canapis); strips of poached bone-marrow. Sauce. white wine the main main dish flavoured with white Sauce. Stock of the to which chopped have been veal stock stock have been added. and veal chopped shallots and Butter should should be be added to this sauce after it has been reduced. Uses. small cuts cuts of meat. Uses. For For small in oil; oil; sauteed in coarsely diced, diced, sauted A la catalane h catalane - Aubergine, coarsely Rice pilaf (see PILAF). pi@(see Sauce. (see SAUCE) flavoured with with sauce (see SAUCE) flavoured A Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce Sauce. A tomato. Uses. cuts of meat. Uses. For large cuts Cavour (q.v.) made with polenta (q.v.) with of polenta baked rounds of Cavorr - Small baked cheese grilled mushrooms filled mushrooms filled large grilled as canaps); canapis); large be used used as cheese (to be with pure shredded truffles. trufles. pur6e of chicken Iiver; liver; shredded Sauce. Marsala or or tomato. flavoured with with Marsala Veal stock stock flavoured Sauce. Veal Uses. escalopes saut6od escalopes cuts of of meat, meat, especially sauted small cuts Uses. For small (U.S. cutlets) sweetbreads. veal and and breadod calves' sweetbreads. cutlets) of of veal A la garnished with with cocks' cocks' Small tartlets tartlets garnished h chalmmaise cnabnnaise - Small (see kidneys sauce (see Veloutd sauce concentrated Velout kidneys blended with concentrated blended with SAUCE); cocks' combs combs d la la Villeroi; Villeroi; slices slices of of truffles; trufles; SAUCE); cocks' mushrooms. Sauce. (se SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). Sauce. Suprme Suprme sauce Uses. poultry; calves' poached or calves' sweetbreads sweetbreads poached or Uses. For For poultry; braised white stock. stock. braised in in a a white Cbambord quenelles; mushrooms; Large and small fish fish quenelles; Chambord and small mushrooms ; - Large fillets u ted in tter; truffles fillets of sole; soft soft roes roes sa saut6ed in bu butter; trufles cut cut to to look look of sole; like freshwater crayfish crayfish cooked cooked in in a a court-bouillon; court-bouillon; like olives; olives; freshwater small small fried fried crotons. cro0tons. Sauce. sauce (see SAUCE). Sauce. Red Red wine wine sauce Uses. Uses. For For large large braised fish. - Very A la h cbanoinesse chanoinesseVery small small carrots carrots in in cream cream mixed mixed with with coarsely Arranged as for tartlets. coarsely chopped chopped truffles. trufres. Arranged as a a filling filling for tartlets. Sauce. juices diluted Pan juices diluted with with sherry sherry and and veal veal stock. stock. Sauce. Pan Uses. (see sweetbreads; Suprme Uses. For For calves' calves' sweetbreads; Suprme of of chicken chickm (see CHICKEN); CHICKEN); coddled coddled or or poached eggs. eggs. A la hearts filled filled with with chestnut chestnut h chtelaine chltelaine -- Artichoke hearts pure pur6e mixed mixed with with rice, rice, sprinkled sprinkled with with breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and
F' _ _ " __ ._! _

in butter. browned; browned; braisod braised lettuce; potato potato balls browned in juices of pan juices of the diluted pan Sauce. Thickened veal veal stock or diluted main dish. Uses. For large cuts of meat. pLUcHEs DE CERFEUIL of stalk All traces of cERFEUIL Chervil leaves. leaves. PLUCHES - AIl Most and fibre should be removed removed from the leaves of chervil. Most pur6ed vegetables should should have of whole or pured soups with a base ofwhole quart, litre (scant quart, to every every litre chervil added added - 1 teaspoon to chervil generous quart) soup. soup. Because of the very delicate aromatic the soup at herb, the leaves must be be addd to the flavour of this herb, the soup is is off the the boil. when the the last moment, when For soup. Uses. For leaves and and sorrel shredded lettuce leaves Chifionnade - Finely shredded Chiffonnade used in in many is used This chiffonnade chffinnade is in butter. butter. This slowly in stewed slowly stewed different soups. different green cabbage stuffed with with A la h cbinonaise chinonaise - Small rolls of green potatoes sprinkled chopped sprinkled with chopped sausage meat and braised; potatoes parsley. (se SAUCE). Sauce. Demi-glace sauce (see Sauce. meat. of meat. large cuts of Uses. For large Uses. glazed onions; onions; small glazed chestnuts; small Braised chestnuts; Chipolata - Braised sausages ; mushrooms. chipolata lta sausages; Chlpclla (se SAUCE) or the the braising braising SAUCE) or sauce (see Sauce. Demi-glace sauce stock of the main dish. and diced, blanched, blanched, and coarsely diced, bacon, coarsely lean bacon, Sometimes Sometimes lean also served. served. is also carrots, is braised carrots, in butter butter with braised browned in of meat meat or or poultry. cuts of Uses. Uses. For large cuts hearts artichoke hearts butter; artichoke Cboron - Potato balls browned in butter; Choronin butter. butter. simmered in (or asparagus tips) and and simmered asparagus tips) filled filled with peas (or (se SAUCE) with flavoured with SAUCE) flavoured sauce (see Sauce. Sauce. Biarnaise sauce dish. round the the main main dish. in a a ring round arranged in tomato, tomato, arranged grilled. or grilled. meat, fried fried or small cuts cuts of meat, Uses. For small Uses. For pnonrERoLEs - Using (see paste (see Chou paste paste balls. Using Chou Chou balls. PROFITEROLES Chcr paste out squeeze out round nozzle, nozzle, squeeze with a a round in a forcing-bag with DOUGH) DOUGII) in a forcing-bag in a a of a nut. nut. Bake Bake in size ofa each the the size sheet little little balls each onto a baking sheet onto a for 20 20 to to 25 25 minutes. minutes. me)derat:ely hot oyen oven for moderately hot puree or other In,!!:reclle!lt ingredient a pure or whatever whatever other Stuff with a Stuff the balls with soup in which which for the the soup to the the recipe recipe for is te, according according to is appropria appropriate, up. heat them and heat them up. served, and they are are to to be be served, For soup. Uses. For peas in in filled with with peas Artichoke hearts hearts filled A la Clamart Clamart I Artichoke potato balls in butter. butter. butter; potato balls browned browned in (see sauce (see Demi'glace sauce wr/.h Demi-glace Sauce. stock blended blended with Veal stock Sauce. Veal SAUCE). sAUCE). meat. Uses. small cuts cuts of of meat. For large or or smaU Uses. For garnish 1/ /1(below). A la St Germain Germain garnish See St h Clamart Chmart tr -- See green cabbage stuffod and Rolls of of green A la Clermont Clermont - Rolls (pickled) pork cooked with braised; of salt salt (pickled) slices of rectangular slices braised; rectangular potatoes. the the cabbage; potatoes. (se, SAUCE) or the the braising braising Sauce. sauce (see SAUCE) or Sauce. Demi-glace sauce liquor. liquor. Uses. meat. large cuts cuts of of meat. For large Uses. For in garnish. ROGNONS DE COQ coQ - Wash Wash in Cocks' RocNoNs DE as gamish. Cocks' kidneys kidneys as kidneys. Put Put (a oz.) g. (4 cocks' kidneys. several firm, white white cocks' 100 g. oz.) finn, waters 100 several waters (6 tablespoons, scant them tablespoons, scant with 1 I dl. dl. (6 a small small saucepan with them into into a pinch of salt, o2.,2 tablespoons) t* cup) water, 2 tablespoons) salt, 25 25 g. (1 water, a a pinch Qoz., "up) butter of lemon lemon juice. and a a few few drops drops of butter and good heat. soon as the liquid liquid Start heat. As As soon as the a good over a Start cooking cooking over begins cookitg, very low and continue continue cooking, heat very low and turn the the heat to boil boil turn begins to covered, avoid boiling. boiling. care to to avoid taking care 12 minutes, minutes, taking l0 to to 12 covered, for for 10 Use recipe. to the the recipe. according to Use according (rolled into - Small into puree of lentils (rolled of lentils Small croquettes of of pure A la h Conti Contiballs); in butter. potatos cut fried in butter. olives, fried like olives, cut to to look like balls); potatoes Sauce. Demi-glace and Demi-glace with Madeira Madeira and diluted with Pan juices diluted Sauce. Pan (see SAUCE). sauce sauce(s* Uses. of meat. meat. For small small cuts cuts of Uses. For (4oz., g.(4 1 cup) o2.,1 100g. dish 100 Place in inan anearthenware earthenware dish Cr0pes - Place Add 22whole wholeeggs, eggs, mix I teaspoon teaspoon table tablesalt. salt. Add sieved flour and and1

- I

412 412

GARNISHES GARNISHES
well, and and dilute dilute the the mixture mixture with with 2f 2i dl. (scant (scant I i pint, pint, generous generous well, boiled milk. milk. cup) boiled Make pancakes pancakes and use them as appropriate. appropria te. Clear soup soup Make in the the preparation of this may be be used used instead instead of milk in may garnish. garnish. For soup. soup. Uses. For CROTES Crotes ganrished gamished and and browned l'ancienne. cno0rrs Cro0tes GARNIES rr ET cneuN6ps GRATINES A t'lNctsNNEL'ANCIENNE - Cut Cut a long long French loaf cARNIES into slices slices 3 to 4 cm. cm. (li inches) incbes) thick. thick. Scoop out three three into quarters of the bread to make nests. Brush with butter or fat from a pot-au-feu. pot-au-feu. Toast Toast lightly in the oven. oyen. Chop or fat sieve the vegetables from the pot-au-feu, pot-au-feu, add grated cheese, cheese, mixture. and garnish garnisb the the bread with little !ittle mounds of this mixture. and these cro0tes crotes on on a a baking sheet sheet and and sprinkle with Place these few drops drops of the the fat, fat, and grated cheese. cheese. Moisten with a a few grated 'brown. brown. soup. Uses. For clear soup. of sandwich sandwich loaf loaf into into cubes approxiCrotons - Dice slices slices of cubes approxiCroiitons(i inch) across. Fry them in clarified clarified butter butter just mately i * cm. (* before serving. serving. Uses. For soups. Allow 50 g. (2 oz.) fried fried bread for every Uses. generous quart) soup. litre (scant quart, generous pur6e, Ah la CussyCussy- Artichoke hearts hearts filled with musbroom mushroom pure, A kidneys; sprinkled cocks'kidneys; sprinkled with breadcrumbs and and browned; cocks' shredded truffies. shredded Sauce. fiavoured with Madeira Madeira or port. Sauce. Sauce flavoured Uses. For sm aIl cuts of meat; small mebt; poultry, whole or jointed. tai! ragot Nantua (see la Nantua ragofit d la A la h Daumont - Crayfish Crayfish tail CRA YFISH) (in scallop shells or pastry pastry boats); boats); large fish fish CRAYFISH) QUENELLES), decorated with truffies; quenelles (see QUENELLES), quenelles (see decorated with truffies; truffles cut fillets of sole in fancy fancy shapes; cut in fillets sole decorated with with truffies slices of truffie; mushrooms cooked in tn court-bouillon. (se,e SAUCE) witb Sauce. Normande Normande sauce (see with Crayfish butter (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). Uses . For large baked fish. Uses. (see POT Dauphine potatoes potatoes (see ATOES). POTATOES). Dauphlre A la h Dauphine - Dauphine Sauce. veal stock. Sauce. Roast pan juices or clear veal Uses. meat. small cuts of meaL Uses. For large or small is covered prepared demi-denil is d la demi-deuil A la ta demi-deuildeni-deuil - Food prepared (se SAUCE) garnished with shed with with SAUCE) and and garni with a sauce (see a Suprme Suprme sauce truffies. Uses. poached poultry and veal veal braised braised d blanc. Uses. For poached (shelled) in wine; tails tails of of Mussels (sbelled) in white wine; A la U dieppoise aieppoise - Mussels freshwater crayfish, grey grey or pink (shelled); mushrooms. (se SAUCE). Sauce. White wine sauCe saucq (see SAUCE). Sauce. White poached in Uses. in white wine. Uses. For fish fish poached Dubarry masked with with into balls, balls, masked shaped into Dubarry - Caulifiower Cauliflower shaped grated cheese Mornay sauce (see SAUCE) and cheese and SAUCE) sprinkled with grated browned. Uses. small cuts of meat. Uses. Large or small

(lj

A ta la duchesse duchesse - Duchess Duchess potatoes potatoes (see (see POTATOES) POT ATOES) in different shapes according according to the nature of of the main dish. dish. Sauce. Thickened veal stock or roast pan pan juices. juices. Uses. For large or small cuts of of meat. meat. Duroc Duroc - New potatoes (very small), browned in butter. butter. Sauce. Chasseur sauce (s* (see SAUCE) cooked in the the pan pan used for the main dish. disb. Uses. For small cuts of of meat and poultry, saut6ed. sauted. Duxelles DuxeUes - Chopped mushrooms browned in butter and oil mixed with chopped cbopped onions and shallots, moistened moistened with white white wine, with chopped parsley added. Uses. For small cuts of meat. Favart Favart - Chicken Chicken quenelles quenelles seasoned with with chopped tarragon, tartlets of rich pastry filled with a salpicon salpicon of mushmushrooms (cdpes) (cpes) in cream. cream. (se SAUCE) of Velouti sauce (see of chicken with Sauce. Sauce. Thick Velout butters). Compound butters). Crayfish butter (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound sweetbreads. Uses. For poultry; veal; sweetbreads. quarters of A artichokes) Small artichokes (or quarters h la favorite favorite - Small of articbokes) braised; lettuces lettuces stuffed and braised; mushrooms cooked in small Anna with mixed diced vegetables; vegetables; small butter and and filled filled with mixed diced potatoes POTATOES) A TOES) baked in individual moulds mou Ids and potatoes (see POT turned out. (see veal stock, stock, Demi-glace sauce (see Sauce. Thickened Thickened veal Sauce. Demi-glace sauce juices of the main dish. SAUCE) or the diluted pan juices and small cuts of meal. meat. Uses. For large and (q.v.) A Ia fermilre afondue A la fermire fondue (q. v.) - Artichoke hearts filled with a lettuces. vegetables; braised lettuces. of mixed vegetables; (se SAUCE). SAUCE). Sauce. Demi-glace Sauce. Demi-glace sauce (see Uses. For large cuts of meat. quenelles; cocks' combs combs A la U financire nnancilre veal quenelles; A - Chicken or veal and Stoned and truffies. Stoned kidneys; mushrooms; mushrooms; shredded and kidneys; shredded truffies. and are sometimes sometimes freshwater crayfish crayfish are olives, and and freshwater blanched blanched olives, added. (se SAUCE). SAUCE). Financiire sauce (see Sauce. Financire Sauce. meat; calves' calves' sweetsmall cuts cuts of of meat; Uses. For For large large and and small Uses. poultry; vol-au-vent, vol-au-vent, etc. etc. breads; poultry;

a fillel fillet of of beef beef la flamande flamande round round a Garnish d la Gamish

Garnish (Debillot. Phol. Iarousse) Garnish Dubarry Dubarry (Debillol. Phot. Larousse)

stuffed, rolled rolled up, up, and and A la h flamande flamande -- Green Green cabbage cabbage stuffed, large oval oval shapes shapes trimmed into into large braised; carrots carrots and and turnips turnips trimmed braised; glazed; potatoes. potatoes. Diced pork fat fat and sausage Diced pork and slices slices of of sausage and glazed; and cooked with with tbe the cabbage cabbage a,re a-re sometimes sometimes added added. . cooked (se SAUCE), Demi-glace sauce sauce (see veal stock, stock, or or the the SAUCE), veal Sauce. Demi-glace Sauce. juices of pan juices diluted pan of the the main main dish. dish. diluted For large large and small cuts cuts of of meat. meat. Uses. For and small Uses. potato balls sautEed in in butter; balls h forestire forestilre -- Morels Morels sauted butter; potato A la (pickled) pork, pork, diced, salt (pickled) diced, browned in in butter. Sometimes salt browned butter. Sometimes fried in in butter is added. added. blancbed, butter is blanched, and and fried
413 413

GARNISHES GARNISHES
(see SAUCE), Sauce. SAUCE), reduced Sauce. Demi-glace sauce sauce (see reduced veal stock, or the diluted dilutod pan juices of the main dish. Uses.Large Uses. Large and and small pieces of meat; poultry. A from Duchess h la frangaise franaise - Small Sm ail nests made from Duchess potatoes potatoes (see (see POTATOES) POT ATOES) hollowed hollowed out, dipped in egg and and breadcrumbs, vegetables; crumbs, fried, fried, and and filled filled with with diced diced mixed mixed vegetables; bunches ofcaulibunches of asparagus tips; braised lettuces; florets of cau liflower coated with Hollandaise sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Sauce. Sauce. Thin Demi-glace sauce (see SAUCE) or clear veal gravy. large cuts of meat. meat. Uses. For large Gorenffot shredded red GorenOot - Braised Braised coarsely coarsely shredded red cabbage; cabbage;

rounds of Saveloy Saveloy sausage sausage cooked cooked with with the rounds of the cabbage; cabbage;

Potatoes d la Ia mnagre mdnagire (see Potatoes (see POTATOES). POT A TOES). Sauce. Braising stock. Sauce. Braising meat. Uses. For large braised cuts of meat. Gouff - Little Little nests nests of Duchess potatoes potatoes (see (see POTATOES) POT ATOES) Gouff6of Duchess

cream: fried and and hollowed hollowed out out to to hold hold morels morels cooked in in cream; fried
asparagus asparagus tips in butter. Madeira and Sauce. Sauce. Stock of the main dish blended with Madeira

beef A Frascati Frascati gamish garnish round round a fillet fille! of ofbeef A

Frascati Frascati - Large baked baked mushrooms, some sorne filled with a salpicon of truffies, truffies, others others with buttered buttered greur green asparagus asparagus tips; small slices of/ore of foie gras saut6ed sauted in butter. Sauce. Sauce. Demi-glace sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) flavoured flavoured with port. Uses. For large large cuts of meat. meat. A la gauloise gauloise I 1- Tartlets Tartlets filled with cocks' kidneys; kidneys; cocks' combs combs fried ri la la Villeroi; mushrooms; mushrooms; trufles. truffies. Sauce. Sauce. Pan Pan juices juices of of the main main dish dish diluted diluted with with white white wine. Uses. For small cuts cuts of of meat; jointed poultry. poultry. A Ah la gauloise gauloise tr II - Pastry boats filld filled with a salpicon salpicon of truffies and mushrooms ci la crime; crme; potato patata croquettes; croquettes; freshfreshwater water crayfish cooked in a court-bouillon. court-bouillon. Sauce. Matelote Matelote sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Uses. For large large baked or poached poached fish. Glazed Gh~zed carrots for garnish gamish - See CARROTS. CARROTS. Glazed Glazed ltalian Italian marrow (zucchini) gamish gamish - See ITALIAN IT ALlAN MARROW. Glazed onions onions for garnish. orcNoNs OIGNONS cLAcES GLACS - Skin small, uniform-sized unifonn-sized onions. Fry them very lightly lighily in butter in a shallow season. shaIJow pan. Sprinkle Sprinkle with a little !ittle sugar sugar and season. Moisten Moisten with stock (or (or water, water, if if the garnish is is required for a Lente,n Lenten dish) so that the liquid liquid does not quite quite cover coyer them. them. Simmer gently gently with the lid on the pan pan until the liquid !iquid has completely completely disappeared. disappeared. If, after this reduction of liquid, liquid, the onions are not yet yet cooked, add a few tablespoons of hot stock, finish cooking cooking and glaze, without without stirring them. them. God$dGodard - Large Large decorated quenelles; quenelles; small small poultry poultry orveal or veal quenelles with with truffies; truffies; sheeps' sheeps' sweetbreads, sweetbreads, braised braised and glazed; cocks'combs cocks' combs and kidneys; small truffies, whole or cut to look look like olives; mushroom mushroom caps. garnish is is for for a a substantial substantial second second course, course, When this garnish sweetbreads stuffed with bacon and braised may be be calves' sweetbreads substituted for the sheep's sweetbreads. sweetbreads. (For (For fuller informainformasubstituted CHICKEN, Chickm Chicken d la Godard.\ Godard.) tion, see CHICKEN, Sauce. Godard Godard sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE). SAUCE). For large large cuts of of meat; meat; poultry. poultry. Uses. For

thickened veal stock. and small cuts of meat. Uses. For large and meat. of potatoes la dauphinoise. Gratin dauphinois. dauphinois. Gratin Gratin of potatoes dauphinoise. Gratin i la r.e n.c,upHrNorsE GRA TIN DE poMMEs POMMES DE TERRE LA DAUPHINOISE - Slice thinly cRATTN TERRE A 1 ke.(41b.) kg. (2i lb.) potatoes. Season pepper and put I Season with salt and pepper them in an ovenproof ovenproof dish previously previously rubbed with with garlic and butter. Sprinkle Sprinkle grated cheese on the potatoes, spread out in butter. the dish in even layers. layers. (1 pint, of 2 eggs eggs and 6 dl. (I cups) over this this a mixturc mixture of pint, 2f 21 cups) Pour over grated nutmeg. little salt, salt, and boiled milk, milk, a a !ittle and a boiled a dash dash of of grated Sprinkle with grated cheese and butter. Sprinkle and dot the top with butter. Bring to the boil on the stove and complete the cooking cooking in Bring oyen for about 40 minutes. Serve in the baking dish. the oven omitted if desired, desired, The garlic gar!ic and grated nutmeg may be be omitted though, strictly speaking, they form an an essential seasoning thoug[ seasoning of this dish. la savoyarde. cnrrrN GRATIN DE DE poMMEs POMMES DE Gratin of potatoes i TERRE r,c. LA s,avovARDE SA VOY ARDE - Prepared as as for Gratin dauphinois, fiRRE A dauphinois, substituting substituting clear c1ear stock for the milk. Helder - Potato Potato balls browned in butter: butter; Biarnaise Barnaise sauce sauce (see SAUCE), traced in a circle circ1e on the meat; meat; thick Tomato fondue (see FONDUE) FONDUE) placed placed in the the middle middle of the bearnaise barnaise fondue sauce. sauce. Meat juices of of the main dish blended blended with reduced reduced Sauce. Meat veal stock. Uses. For small saut6ed sauted cuts of meat. meat. - Artichoke Artichoke hearts filled with Biarnaise Barnaise sauce sauce Henry IV (see (see SAUCE) with concentrated veal veal stock added; potato shredded truffies. balls browned in butter; shreddod Madeira and Sauce. Stock of the main dish blended with Madeira thickened veal stock. Uses. For small cuts of meat. meat. h la hongroise hongroise I 1- Large florets of of cauliflower cauliflower coated with A Mornay sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE), SAUCE), seasoned seasoned with with paprika, paprika, Mornay breadcrumbs and browned browned under under the grill; grill; sprinkled with breadcrumbs p ot at o fondante POT ATOES). patata fondantes (see POTATOES). s (see Thin Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Sauce. Thn of meat. meat. Uses. For large and small cuts of la la hongroise hongroise II II - Nests Nests of of Duchess Duchess potato patata (see A POTATOES) POT ATOES) garnished garni shed with florets florets of cauliflower cau!iflower coated coated with Mornay Mornay sauce (see SAUCE), SAUCE), to which which is added chopped seasoned with paprika. paprika. onion simmered in butter and seasoned juices of the main dish dish blended with cream, cream, Sauce. Pan juices seasoned with paprika and and thickened with a little little Velouti Velout Bchamel sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE). SAUCE). sauce or Bichamel sauce smaIJ cuts cuts of of meat. meat. Uses. For small h la hongroise hongroise Itr ID - Rice Rice pilaf; pilaf; diced diced tomatoes tomatoes simmered simmered in A butter. Sauce. Hongroise Hongroise sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Sauce. sauted. Uses. For poultry, poached or saut6ed. garnish - See JAPONAISE JAPONAISE (A ( LA). Japanese garni$ la jardinilre jardinire - Glazed carrots carrots and turnips in small oval A with a ball-scoop); bali-scoop); peas; French beans; beans; shapes (or rounded with shapes smaJl kidney kidney beans beans in butter butter - all ail disposed disposed round round the the dish in small separate groups. separate Florets of of cauliflower, cauliflower, coated with Hollandaise sauce (see Florets sometimes added. added. SAUCE) or melted butter are sometimes c1ear veal stock. Sauce. Pan juices or clear cuts of meat. meat. Uses. For large and small cuts

414

GARNISHES
Tiny artichokes cooked cooked in in butter, butter, stuffed stuffed with a a Jessica - Tiny salpicon of of bone-marrow bone-marrow with with shallots; shallots; morels morels sauted saut6ed in in salpicon potatoes (see (see POT butter; Anna potataes POTATOES) in individual butter; ATOES) baked in moulds. (s* SAUCE) Sauce. Allemande Allemande sauce (see SAUCE) increased bya by a third Sauce. with concentrated (see concentrated veal veal stock stock and and Truffle Truffie essence essence (see with ESSENCE). (see CHICKEN); Uses. For For Suprme SuprAme of of chicken chickm (see CHICKEN); veal Uses. (U.S.. cutlets); coddled or poached eggs. escalopes (U.S Joinville of shrimps, Salpicon of shrimps, truffies and and mushrooms, Joinville - Salpicon blended into (se SAUCE); into Velout Velouti sauce or Normande Normande sauce (see SAUCE); blended truffies. sliced truffles. Squce. Normande (see BUTTER, Normande sauce saucewith butter (see Sauce. with Shrimp butter Compound butters). Compound Uses. For baked fish. Uses. Shred into into matchstick strips, carrots, turnips, Julienne - Shred and celery. celery. Cook them in in butter until until tender. leeks, onions, and clear meat stock. If If a vegetarian soup is is required, water Add clear is added added instead instead of of stock. stock. To To this this mixture mixture add add shredded is cabbageandlettuce I or freshpeas, or2 cabbage and lettuce hearts, fresh peas, and 1 2 tablespoons shreddod sorrel. shredded For soup. Uses. For A la h languedocienne hnguedocienne Cdpes sauted oil; diced saut6ed in butter or oil; A - Cpes or sliced sliced aubergines fried in aubergines fried in oil; oil; potatoes cut cut to to look look like or olives and cooked slowly in clarified butter. (see SAUCE) Sauce. Demi-glace sauce (see flavoured with SAUCE) flavoured Sauce. Demi-glace sauce tomato. Uses. For large and small and sm aIl cuts of meat; poultry. Uses. A la la lorraine Red cabbage braised in red red wine; wine; Potato A braised in - Red (see POTATOES). POTATOES). fondantes (see Sauce. Diluted Demi-glace (see SAUCE) SAUCE) or braising Sauce. Demi-glace sauce (see stock; in in addition, Horseradish (see SAUCE) served sauce (see stock; Horseradish sauce grated horseradish. separately, or grated horseradish. separately, Uses. For large cuts of meat, particularly braised braised cuts. A la la lyonnaise Medium-sized stuffed onions, onions, braised; lyonnaise - Medium-sized (see POT Potato POTATOES). ATOES). Po tata fondantes fondantes (see (se SAUCE). Sauce. Lyonnaise sauce (see Sauce. Uses. For large cuts of meat. meat. Macedoine which have have been of vegetables vegetables which Macdoine Mixture of - Mixture water separately, separately, drained, and tossed in butter; in water drained, and cooked in carrots and turnips turnips diced or shaped with a ball-scoop; bali-scoop; diced French small kidney kidney beans; etc. Cauliflower Cauliflower French beans; beans; smaIl beans; peas, peas, etc. florets may be added. Sauce. Juices of the roast or clear veal stock. Sauce. small cuts of meat. meat. Uses. For large or smaU Maillot I (also PorteMaillot) Maillot 1 (also called caUed Porte-MaiUot) - Glazed carrots and turnips in small oval lengths (or a ball-scoop); ovallengths (or shaped with a bali-scoop); French French beans in in butter; butter; braised lettuces. lettuces. These vegetables, vegetables, arranged round the dish in separate groups, are sometimes sometimes glazd, onions interspersod knobs of of cauli-. caulionions and and knobs interspersed with with little little glazed flower sprinkled with melted butter. butter. (se, SAUCE) Sauce. Demi-glace sauce SAUCE) flavoured fiavoured with Sauce. sauce (see Madeira. Madeira. Uses. For large large cuts of meat, especially especially ham. Maillot Coarsely shredded Maillot II II - Coarsely shredded carrots carrots and and turnips, turnips, simmered French beans in butter. butter in a a covered covered pan; French butter. simmered in butter Sauce and uses. As Maillot Maillot I. 1. A la h maracbre naralch0re trimmed into large Carrots trimmed large ovallengths oval lengths A - Carrots glazed; small glazed on and glazed; small glazed onions; slices of thick slices of stuffed stuffed and and and ions ; thick quartered artichokes braised cucumber; cucumber; quartered artichokes which which have have been braised simmered in in butter in in a a covered covered pan. simmered Sauce. Strained Strained braising liquor, liquor, with aU all fat fat removed. removed. Sauce. Uses. For large large braised cuts of meat. braised cuts meat. Uses. la marcbale marechale tips in in butter; sliced truffles. trufres. A la - Asparagus tips d la la marchale marichale are are dipped dipped in in a a mixture Ingredients prepared of two two thirds thirds breadcrumbs and and one one third third finely finely chopped chopped of truffies. (see BUTTER, Mattre d'htel Sauce. Maitre d'h6tel butter butter (see BUTTER, Compound Compound Sauce. (see SAUCE). butters) or or Chateaubriand Chateaubriand sauce (see SAUCE). butters) (see CHICKEN); Uses. For Suprme SuprAme of of chicken chickm (see CHICKEN); escalopes escalopes Uses. (U.S. of veal; sweetbreads; sweetbreads; sometimes fillets fillets of of fish. (U .S. cutlets) of h Marigny -- SmaU Small artichoke artichoke he hearts filled wi with corn A la arts filled th corn kernels in cream; potato balls, balls, browned in in butter. kernels juices of the main dish diluted with white wine Sauce. Pan juices Sauce. and thickened veal veal stock. and Uses. For small cuts cuts of meat. Uses. h marinire marinilre Shelled mussels cooked cooked in in white white wine; wine: A la - Shelled crayfish. shelled tails of freshwater crayfish. (se SAUCE). Sauce. Mariniire SAUCE). Sauce. Marinire sauce (see Uses. For fish. fish. Uses. Marivaux (see Oval nests nests made Duchess potato made of of Duchess Marivaux potata (see - Oval POTATOES), in the the oven, filled filled with a a mixture of of POT ATOES), browned in finely chopped carrots, celery, celery, artichoke artichoke hearts, hearts, and and mushfinely rooms all been simmered in butter in a covered been simmered - which have aIl pan and (see SAUCE) blended with and blended with Bchamel Bichamel sauce sauce (see SAUCE) pan sprinkled with with Parmesan Parmesan cheese cheese and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and sprinkled browned; French beans in butter. (see SAUCE) or thickened Sauce. Thin Demi-glace sauce (see Sauce. veal stock. veal Uses. For large large cuts cuts of meat. Uses. A la la marocaine pilaf, lightly marocaine lightly seaA - Little mounds of rice pilaf, (to be soned with with saffron saffron (to used as be used as canaps); canapis); diced diced baby soned (U.S. marrows zucchinis) sauted saut6ed in in oil; oil; braised braised sweet .S. zucchinis) marrows (U stuffed with chicken forcemeat. peppers stuffed Pan juices diluted with tomato tomato juice. Sauce. Pan juices diluted juice. Uses. For noisettes of mutton or lamb. A la h mascotte mascotte artichoke hearts sauted saut6ed in butter; A - Sliced artichoke potatoes trimmed into into small small oval oval lengths, lengths, browned potatoes trimmed browned in butter; trufres. bu tter; sliced truffies. d la mascotte are usually served in in a Ingredients prepared deep pie dish or in earthenware dishes. Sauce. Pan juices white wine wine and and thickened Sauce. juices diluted with white veal stock. small cuts of meat; poultry. Uses. For smaIl Mrssena garnished with hearts garnished with strips strips of Massena Artichoke hearts - Artichoke poached bone-marrow. bone-marrow. (se SAUCE) prepared by Sauce. Marrow sauce by diluting Sauce. sauce (see the the marrow has been cooked. the juices juices in which themarrow been cooked. small cuts of meat. Uses. For smaU Massenet- Anna potatoes individual mou moulds Massenetpotatoes baked in individual Ids and (see POT turned out (see POTATOES, turned out ATOES, Anna potatoes potatoes for for garnish); small artichokes artichokes filled with a a salpicon salpicon of of bone-marrow; bone-marrow; small filled with French beans in butter. butter. Sauce. Meat juices dish or a a Demi-glace sauce Sauce. juices of the main dish (see SAUCE) flavoured with Madeira. Madeira. (see Uses. For large or small cuts of meat. meat. glazd onions; Matelote onions; mushrooms; mushrooms; small Matelote - Small Small glazed cro0tons crotons fried in butter. butter. (se SAUCE) with red wine. Sauce. Matelote Sauce. Matelote sauce (see Uses. For fish. Matignm stuffed with with a a matignon matignon Matignon Artichoke hearts hearts stuffed - Artichoke (q.v.), sprinkled sprinkled with with breadcrumbs and and browned; stuffed (q.v.), braised lettuces. lettuces. Sauce. Madeira (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Sauce. Madeira sauce or Port wine sauce (ser, Uses. For large and small cuts of meat. meat.
415 415

Maillot Maillot garnish gamish round round a a ham

GARNISHES GARNISHES
Very small small tomatoes filled filled with with a a salpicon salpicon of Melba - Very Velouti sauce in Velout blendod in chicken, truffies, and and mushrooms, blended (see SAUCE), sprinkled with breadcrumbs and and browned; (see sprinkled with braised lettuce. flavoured with port. Sauce. Sauce. Thickened veal stock fiavoured Uses. For small cuts of meat. slices of small small vegetable vegetable marrows Mentonnaise Thick slices - Thick stuffed with tomato-fiavoured rice; small cooked artichokes tomato-flavoured rice; to look a covered pan; potatoes cut cut to simmered in butter in a clarified butter. like olives and cooked slowly in c1arified (se Thickened veal veal stock stock or or Demi-glace sauce sauce (see Sauce. Sauce. Thickened SAUCE). SAUCE). and small cuts of meat. Uses. For large and curriod rice to be Mikado rice to used as Small mounds mounds of curried be used - Small filled with soya bean shoots in cream. canapis; tartlets filled canaps; (see, SAUCE) with soya added. Sauce. Sauce. Curry sauce (see suprAmes of chicken, escalopes (U.S. cutlets) of Uses. For suprmes veal. (see MACARONI); Macaroni MACARONI); Milanaise Milanaise 1 |d l'italienne I'italienne (see - Macaroni cooked ham in dariole moulds. tomato. Sauce. Sauce. Veal stock flavoured with tomato. Uses. For large pieces of meat. lozenges and Mlanaise tr - Semolina gnocchi (cut in lozenges rec:tallgleS) .. init-IM with cheese and browned. u"p,,,_,,,;;,,~. rectangles) "", sprinkled Sauce. Sauce. Thickened veal stock fiavoured flavoured with tomato. (se MACARONI); Milanaise m IIId l'italienne I'italienne (see MACARONI); Milanaise - Macaroni Macaroni ham, pickled cooked harn, pickled tongue, mushrooms, and truffies, cut flavoured into strips and blended blended in concentrated veal stock fiavoured a coarw julienne. with toma to, making a tomato, either mixed with the macaroni or arranged Thisjulienne This julienne is either in a circle round it. especially veal cutlets (U.S. Uses. For small cuts of meat especially chops) in breadcrumbs. Mirabeau Stoned olives; olives; anchovy anchovy fillets; fillets; blanched Mirabeau - Stoned and occasionally occasionally matchstick matchstick tarragon tarragon leaves. leaves. Watercress and potatoes are also included in this garnish. Compound butters). butters). Sauce. Anchovy Anchovy butter (see BUTTER, Compound gnlled steaks. especially grilled Uses. For small cuts of meat especially (q.v.) of vegetables in A h moderne Charteuse (q.v.) rn dariole la - Chartreuse potatoes. moulds; stuffed, braised lettuces; small potatoes. moulds; Sauce. Sauce. Thickened veal stock with butter added. Uses. Large cuts of meaL meat. Little cakes of of spinach spinach with Parmesan cheese; Mont-Bry cheese; - Little
cipes tn cream.
of the main dish blended blended with Sauce. Pan juices of with white wine and thicklen(!<l thickened veal stock. Uses. For small cuts of meat. Green asparagus asparagus tips tips in in butter; butter; sliced Montpensier - Green

trufres. truffies. Sauce. Sauce. Stock of the main main dish blended with Madeira and thickened veal stock. Uses. For small cuts of meat; jointed chicken. cooked in in butter in in a Nanette Small artichoke hearts hearts cooked - Small (see crearn (see covered pan, filled with Lettuce chiffonnade with cream mushrooms simmered in in butter butter and CHIFFONNADE); . mushrooms filld with a salpicon of truffies blended with a concentrated filled Demi-glace sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Demi-glace of the main dish fiavoured flavoured with Marsala Sauce. Sauce. Pan Pan juices of (see SAUCE); sauce (see Velouti sauce and blended with with chicken chicken Velout and blended chicken jelly. cream and white chicken (U.S. chops); For lamb lamb cutlets cutlets (U.S. chops); escalopes escalopes (U.S. Uses. Uses. For calves' sweetbreads. cutlets) of veal; ca Ives' sweetbreads. Nantua ragofrt d la Nantua (see - Freshwater Crayfish tails ragot in shells, pastry boats, or or tartlets, CRA YFISH), arranged in CRAYFISH), in white white wine. or or set set on on a a dish dish surrounding fish cookod in sometimes added. Shredded truffies are sometimes (se SAUCE). Sauce. SAUCE). Sauce. Nantua sauce (see Uses. For fish.
416 416

Nichette filled with grated horseGrilled mushrooms filled - Grilled ragofit of cocks' radish; ragot cocks'combs and cocks' cocks'kidneys, blended radish; combs and (se SAUCE). in Marrow sauce (see Sauce. Sauce. Marrow sauce. Uses. For small cuts of meat; suprAmes. A la Isimmerod in nioise 1 h nigoise Small skinned tomatoes, tomatoes, simmered - Small (courgettes or vegetable marrows (courgettes butter; very small braised vegetable stewed in zucchini); small small artichokes artichokes stewed in butter; butter; potato balls browned in butter. butter. Thickened veal veal stock stock flavoured flavoured with with tomato, tomato, or Sauce. Sauce. Thickened pan juices of the main dish flavoured fiavoured with tomato. Uses.Large and and small cuts ofmeat; of meat; poultry. A h nigoise n tr simmered in butter with - Small tomatoes ",",,,,prl"f1 a little chopped garlic; French beans in butter; new potatoes look like like olives and browned in butter, or potatoes cut to to look browned clarified butter. cooked slowly in c1arified Sauce and uses. As above. A h nigoise In Itr Tomato fondte d la nigoise (see - Tomato TOMATO); blanched blanched green or black olives; anchovy fillets; capers. fish, the fondue is cooked in the When served with baked fish, same dish as the fish; for grilled fish, it is prepared separately. Uses. U.res. For fish. Ninon Duchess potato (see POT POTATOES) filled Nests of Duchess ATOES) filled - Nests kidneys blended with a a salpicon salpicon of cocks' cocks' combs combs and and kidneys blended in with (se SA Velouti sauce (see Velout UCE); asparagus tips in butter. SAUCE); Sauce. Sauce. Marrow sauce (see SAUCE). meat. Uses. For small cuts of meaL trimmed in small ovallengths; oval lengths; small Nivernaise Nivernaise Carrots trimmed - Carrots glazed onions. SAUCE) if the main dish Sauce. Demi-glace sauce (se SA UCE) or, if is braised, the braising stock. Uses. For large cuts of meat. Normande trimmed and Oysters, trimmed and poached; mussels; - Oysters, "LU lUI!:," , mushrooms; frp.,huI<lt/'r crayfish shrimps; mushrooms; shredded truffies; truffies; freshwater cooked in in a court-bouillon; fried fried breaded a court-bouillon; breadod gudgeon; bread cro0tons fried crotons fried in butter. (se SAUCE). Sauce. Normande sauce (see Sauce. Normande SAUCE). fish. See See SOLE (Sole normande). d la normande). Uses. For fish. Olives for garni$ - See OLIVES. A I'orientale 1 I - Small tomatoes stuffed with rice lightly (ladies' fingers) flavoured with with saffron; saffron; okras okras (ladies' fingers) cooked cooked in fiavoured butter; sweet peppers, and simmered in butter in a butter; peppers, skinned and covered pan. garnish must not be of meat served with this The large cuts ofmeat this garnish interlarded or wrapped in bacon. either interlarded Sauce. Tomato sauce (se SAUCE) with butter. Sauce. and small cuts of meaL meat. Uses. For large and Rice pilaf turned A l'orientale l'orientale II out of !ittle little conical turned out - Rice stuffed with a tomato moulds; cooked okra; small tomatoes stuffed
salpicon.
Sauce and uses. As above. A h paloiseFrench beans paloise- Potato balls balls browned in butter; French in cream. cream. (se SA SAUCE). Sauce. Paloise sauce (see Sauce. UCE). Uses. For small cuts of grilled meat. (see POTAA la | - Potatoes Potatoes POT Ah parisienne 1 d la parisienne (see

TOES); braised lettuce. Sauce. Sauce. Panjuices Pan juices of the main dish diluted with white wine and veal stock. Uses. For large and small cuts of meat; poultry. A la parisienne n tr - As above, using quartered artichokes instead of lettuce. pARMESAN - Mix in a bowl Pamesan Gnoise. Au PARMESAN Parmesan G6noise. GNOISE cfNoIsE AU gratd nutmeg, 2 2 egg a little 2 little grated egg yolks seasoned seasoned with a 2 stiffiy beaten egg whites, 35 g. (U oz., oz., 6 tablespoons) sieved fiour, flour, 50 g. (2 Q oz., I cup) grated Parmesan cheese. (3 inches) Spread the mixture 7! 7l cm. cm. (3 inches) thick thick on on sheets sheets of

GARNISHES GARNISHES
paper very slow slow oyen oven and paper on a buttered baking tin. Bake in a very
(See poultry, game game or forcemeat. (See or fish fish forcemeat. may be be made made of of fine fine poultry, may QUENELLES.) QUENELLES.) pan. and arrange arrange in in a a buttered buttered pan. Pipe through a a forcing-bag and Pipe and cover with with boiling boiling salt salt water water and before serving, serving, coyer Ten minutes minutes before Ten garnish is to 40 40 of of these these no other is used, used, 35 35 to simmer slowly. If If no other garnish sim mer slowly. (lf pints, pints, generous generous quart) quart) to every every litre litre (l~ should be added added to balls should quenelles per per litre garnishes are litre 20 quenelles are used, used, 20 clear soup. If If other other garnishes clear soup. (lf pints, pints, generous generous quart) quart) will sufficient. will be be sufficient. (l~ and somesomeshaped in in a a teaspoon teaspoon and Sometimes Sometimes the the balls balls are are shaped (q.v.) of vegetables. a brunoise brunoise (q.v.) of vegetables. times times stuffed stuffed with a Uses. Uses. For soup. soup. poached, drained, drained, Rachel of bone-marrow, bone-marrow, poached, Rachel -- Slices Slices of piece of grilled, and itself is is set set on on grilled, top of a piece of meat, meat, which which itself and set set on on top of a artichoke in butter. butter. artichoke hearts hearts simmered simmered in (se SAUCE). Sauce. Bordelaise sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Sauce. Bordelaise grilled meat. pieces of Uses. meat. Uses. For For small small pieces of grilled recipe for for Ravioli in the the recipe the ravioli ravioli as as described described in Prepare the - Prepare (q.v.), but ravioli (q.v.), very small. Fill them thern with with chicken, chicken, make very small. Fill but make gras, or forcemeat. SimSimfoie flavoured forcemeat. or any any other other delicately delicately flavoured foie gras, mer mer and and drain. drain. Uses. soup. to clear Uses. Add Add to clear soup. Rgence quenelles decorated with truffles, truffies, small small Large quenelles decorated with R6gence - Large gras sauted chicken foie gras quenelles, slices cocks' saut6ed in in butter, butter, cocks' chicken quenelles, slices of of/ole (or truffles combs, truffies cut cut in in slices of of truffles truffies (or combs, mushrooms, mushrooms, thick thick slices preparation of ovals). for the of this this instructions for the preparation ovals). For For detailed detailed instructions dish rigence. d la la rgence. dish see Chicken see CHICKEN, CHICKEN, Chicken (ser', SAUCE). Sauce. Allemande sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Sauce. Allemande Uses. poultry, sweetbreads, poultry, of white meat, calves' calves' sweetbreads, Uses. For For cuts cuts of white meat, savoury vol-au-vent. flans and and tarts, tarts, vol-au-vent. savoury flans

allow to cool. Cut into shapes. Uses. For soup. garnish). PTS DTvERSES Pasta and cereals (soup garnish). rArfs DIVERSES 60 g. - 60 (2i pasta or vennicelli for each be used used for vermicelli should be (2~ oz.) oz.) Italian pasta generous quart) quart) soup. litre (lf (1 ~ pints, pints, generous Cooking time time varies soup. Cooking from 8 to 14 minutes, according to the size and quality of the pasta pas ta used. used. (3f oz.) pastina or pasta beads should be used for each 80 g. (3ieach quart) clear soup. (l~ pints, pints, generous quart) soup. Cooking Cooking time is litre (lf 22 to 25 minutes. minutes. 22to25 (21oz.) approximately 70 g. (2~ oz.) tapioca, sago, salep to sago, or salep Use approximately (l~ pints, generous quart) clear 1 litre (l| is I Cooking time is clear soup. Cooking 20 minutes. (lf (2 oz., i g. (2 50 be used used for every litre (I~ 50 g. f cup) rice should be pouring boiling pints, generous pints, generous quart) quart) clear After pouring clear soup. soup. After water over it, the rice should be cooked in in the clear clear soup soup for for 25 minutes. la persane saut6ed A h persane - Rounds or long slices of aubergines sauted in oil; onion rings fried in oil; Tomatofondue FONDUE) Tomatofondue (see FONDUE) pep pers (to decorate with peppers decorate the the other garnishes). Sauce. Panjuices or lamb stock stock Pan juices of the main dish or mutton or flavoured with tomato. Uses. (U.S. chops) of mutton mutton or Uses. Cutlets chops) and and noisettes noisettes of or Cutlets (U.S. lamb. la (mixed with pi6montaise risotto (mixed with a A h pimontaise of risotto a - Croquettes of salpicon pickled tongue, tongue, and and ham) ham) salpicon of truffles, truffies, mushrooms, pickled shaped to look like corks. Sauce. Sauce. Thin tomato tomato sauce. sauce. Uses. cuts of of meat. Uses. For large cuts (q.v.); portugaise A la stuffed with with duxelles duxelles (q.v.); h portugaise - Tomatoes stuffed potatoes potatoes cut to look like olives and cooked slowly in clarified clarified slowly in butter. Sauce. (see SAUCE) SAUCE) or Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see Sauce. Veal Veal stock stock or flavoured with tomato. Uses. Uses. For large cuts cuts of meat. Prince Albert in a in butter butter in a Whole truffles truffies simmered simmered in - Whole covered covered pan. The prepared according recipe is is The fillet to this this recipe fillet of of beef beef prepared according to stuffed (see BEEF, Fillet Albert). Fillet ofbeef of beef Prince Albert). stuffed withfoie withfoie gras (see Sauce. Madeira or or the main dish dish flavoured flavoured with with Madeira Sauce. Juices Juices of the port; thickened veal stock. stock. Uses. Uses. For fillet of beef. tips in in butter butter or or cream; cream; diced diced A la h princesse Asparagus tips - Asparagus or sliced sliced truffies. Sauce. (see SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). Sauce. Allemande Allemande sauce Uses. poultry; calves' vol-aucalves' sweetbreads; sweetbreads; small small vol-auFor poultry; Uses. For vent; vent; tartlets. tartlets. Printanier fine strips turnips in in dice dice or or fine strips Printanier or turnips carrots or Cut carrots - Cut about (l inch) long. vegetables and long. Blanch and cook cook 2l cm. Blanch the the vegetables about 2~ cm. (1 them peas add peas are almost almost cooked, cooked, add them in in clear When they they are clear stock. stock. When and drained. have been been boiled and and weil well drained. and French beans beans which which have Asparagus added. beans may may also also be be added. Asparagus tips tips and and young kidney beans Uses. clear soup. soup. Uses. Add Add to to boiling boiling clear printaniire New carrots turnips cut cut in in small small carrots and and turnips A la h printanire - New oval tossed in in butter; oval lengths, lengths, cooked cooked in in white white stock, stock, and and tossed butter; peas; peas; asparagus in butter. asparagus tips tips in butter. Sauce. veal stock. stock. Sauce. Clear Clear veal Uses. poultry. Uses. For For large large and and small small cuts cuts of of meat; meat; poultry. Aubergines provengale Aubergines cut in chunks, chunks, stuffed stuffed with with A la la provenale cut in Tomato (see FONDUE), Tomato fondue FONDUE), sprinkled sprinkled with with breadbreadfondue (see crumbs potatoes cut French beans in butter; butter; potatoes cut crumbs and and browned; beans in browned; French to in clarified butter. look like to look like olives olives and and cooked cooked slowly slowly in clarified butter. Sauce. and veal stock flavoured with with tomato tomato and Sauce. Thickened Thickened veal stock flavoured chopped chopped tarragon. tarragon. Uses. Uses. For For large large and and small small cuts cuts of of meat. meat. Quenelles - Little balls about the size of a white bean, Quenelles - Little balls about the size of a white bean, rounded recipe followed, followed, they they rounded or fluted. According According to to the the recipe or fluted.
417 417

Rgence garnish round R6gence garnish round veal veal sweetbreads sweetbreads

Rjane A(see POT potatoes (see Duchess potatoes POTARdjane -- Nests Nests made made of of Duchess TOES), leaf spinach in TOES), ftied, filled with with leaf spinach in fried, hollowed-out hollowed-out and and filled butter; quartered artichokes in butter; butter; slices slices of of artichokes simmered simmered in butter; quartered poached poached and and drained drained bone-marrow. bone-marrow. Sauce. Braising stock. stock. Sauce. Braising Uses. Uses. For For braised braised veal veal sweetbreads. sweetbreads. Renaissance A variety variety of vegetables, disposed disposed of spring spring vegetables, Renaissance -- A .. They round groups._ round the in individual They are are separately separately the dish dish in individual groups glazed, te. glazed, braised, fried, as braised, tossed tossed in in butter or fried, as appropria appropriate. butter or ,, Sauce, gravy. roast or veal gravy. Gravy of of the the roast or clear clear veal Sauce. Gravy Uses. large cuts Uses. For For large cuts of of meat. meat. Richelieu Richelieu -- Medium-sized Medium-sized stuffed stuffed tomatoes, tomatoes, sprinkled sprinkled with potatoes with breadcrumbs braised lettuce; lettuce; potatoes browned; braised breadcrumbs and and browned; cut cut as as for for small slowly in in clarified clarified butter, butter, small chips chips and and cooked cooked slowly or potatoes fried or new new potatoes fried in in butter. butter. Sauce. Thickened veal veal stock or aa rather rather liquid liquid Demi-glce Demi-glace Sauce. Thickened stock or sauce (see SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). Uses. For large large cuts of meat. meat. Uses. For cuts of

GARNISHES GARNISHES
A hi h l'omaine-Individual ronetne - Individual spinach timhales timbales with with anchovies; anchovies ; individual Anna garnish (see (see POTATOES) Anna potatoes for garnish POTATOES) individuaf turned out out of of small moulds. turned Sauce. Thin Thin tomato tomato sauce sauce or or thickened thickened veal veal stock stock Sauce. flavoured with wilh tomato. tornato. flavoured Uses. For For large large cuts of meat. meat. cuts of Uses. (q.v.), Rornanov -' Cucumber Cucumber stuffed stuffed with with duxelles duxelles (q.v.), Romanov sprinkld wi with potatoes and browned; browned; Duchess Duchess potatoes sprink:led tb breadcrumbs and (see POTATOES) POTATOES) filled filled with with a a salpicon salpicon of of celeriac celeriac and and mushmushrooms in (see SAUCE), rn a a Velout Veloutd sauce sauce (see SAUCE), sprinkled sprinkled with with rooms gratd horseradish. horseradish. grated (see SAUCE) Sauce. Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE) fiavoured flavoured with with Sauce~ Madeira. Madeira. Uses. Garnish Garrish for for large large and and small small cuts cuts of of meaL meat. Uses. Rmsini Thick slices gras sau slices of trufle; slices of truffle; slices ofjoie of/ole gras saut6ed in ted in Rossini - Thick butter. Sauce. Stock Stock of the the main dish blended blended with main dish with Madeira Madeira and and Sauce. veal stock. stock. thickened veal Uses. For For small small cuts cuts of of meat. Uses. garnish for Loyale This garnish prepared either for soup soup is is prepared either from from RoyIe - This a flavoured consomm consomm6 (q.v.) thickened thickened with eggs, eggs, or or from from a a a puree of sorne some kind,also kind, also thickened with with egg. egg. pure Fill small srnall dariole furiole mou moulds with thechosen the chosen ingredients ingredients and and Fil! Ids with (q.v.) until firm. bain-mnrie (q.v.) a bain-marie firm. When completely cold, cook in a completely cold, out of the the mou moulds and dice neatly or or cut cut into into lozenges, lozenges, dice neatly turn out Ids and squarcs, rounds, stars, stars, Jeaves, etc. |eaves, etc. as garnishes for Uses. Royales are used as for c1ear clear soups. soups. given below (2fi pints, pints, 3i The measures given below are are for for lt l| litres litres (2~ Tbe 3f pints) c1ear clear soup. piots) porNTEs D'ASPERGESRoyah of asparagus tips. D'AspERcEs tips. ROYALE RoYALE DE DE POINTES (3 oz.) g. (3 Boil 75 g. oz.) asparagus tips tips in in salt salt water and add 5 Boil and add 5 or or (2 tablespinaoh. Drain, add add 1 lj table6 leaves young spinaeh. t tablespoons (2 (se SAUCE) (3 spoons) Bchamel Bichamel sauce (see SAUCE) and spoons) and 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) consomm, consomm6, and and rub rub through a sieve. Blend in a sieve. Blend in as for for other other royales. 4 egg yolks and and cook as carrots, caUed RoyALE DE Royale of carrots; called i la Crcy. Cr6cy. ROYALE DE CAROTTES, cARorrEs, ntre A LA I-A CRCY DITE cRfcy -- Cook Cook 1 I sliced sliced carrot, carrot, seasoned seasoned with salt with salt and a a little little sugar, sugar, in in butter. and butter. Add Add 2 2 teaspoons teaspoons Bchamel Bdchamel (see SAUCE), 2 (3 tablespoons) sauce 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) cream, sauce (see cream, sieve. Blend in 4 4 egg yolks. Pour into a and sieve. a buttered mould and cook tn in a a bain-marie in a a moderate oyen firm. oven until until firm. RoyALE DE or CLERI Royale of celery. ROYALE Royrle c6rnnr in a in butter in Cook in a - Cook (3 oz., g. (3 double saucepan 75 g. oz., l' finely shredded double sauce pan 75 cup) finely shredded stick I cup) (ser', SAUCE) I tablespoon Bichamel celery. Add J Bchamel sauce (see SAUCE) and 2 tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) consomm, consomm6, and and blend blend in in 4 4 egg yolks. puRfE DE pure. ROYALE RoyALE DE Royale of d cbicken chicken pur6e. ns PURE DE VOLAILLE VoLATLLE (2 oz.) g. (2 Pound to to a fine pulp pulp 50 50 g. Pound a fine oz.) cooked cooked white white meat meat of of poultry. Add 2 tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) Bichamel Bchamel sauce (3 tablespoons) cream, (see SAUCE) and 2 tablespoons (3 cream, and and egg yolks. Poach as for other royales. strain. Blend in 4 egg punm DE GIBIER Royale of of game game Flree. pure. RoyALE ROYALE DE op PURE Royale - Pound ground game game (hare or to a fine fine pulp 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz.) fiesh of ground to oz;S flesh roebuck) (partridge or pheasant). roebuck) or of of winged game (partridge pheasant). Add ~ Add 1 l+ tablespoons (2 tablespoons) tablespoons) Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce (see SAUCE), tablespoons SAUCE), 3 3 tablespoons tablespoons (scant (scant I i consomm, and strain. Blend Blend in in 1 I consomm6, "up) and 2 yolks. yolks. whole egg and a mould and and poach Iike like Pour into a other other royales. ROYALE oRDTNATRE ORDINAIRE - Put a a large pinch pincb of Plain royale. RoyALE chervil into l! dl. (| pint, 3 ~ cup) boiling consomm6 consomm and leave chervil 10 minutes. ".,p) 1 whole whole egg and it to infuse for l0 Beat together I and 2 2 yolks. Blend Blend the eggs slowly slowly into the stock. Strain, skim, and pour into into a buttered mould. Cook as for other royales. pors Royale of fre$ fresb pea pea plr6e. pure. RoyALE ROYALE os DE pUREE PURE DE DE POIS Royale Blend 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) fresh pea pur6e pure FRAIS - Blend FRAIs with 4 4 tablespoons tablespoons (* (~cup) consomm. Season Season with salt and a with cup) consomm6. 1 whole egg and 2 yolks. yolks. Pour into a little sugar. Blend in I little a mould and poach poach like other royales. mould

ptrRfn DE prr6e. ROY Royale of of tomato tomato pure. RoyALE op PURE DETOMA ToMATES Royale ALE DE TES - (6 tablespoons, scant Dilute 1 I dl. dl. (6 scant tI cup) cup) concentrated concentrated tomato Dilute tomato puree with with 4 4 tablespoons tablespoons ({ cup) consomm. Season with pure consomm6.Season salt withsalt yolksand poach as and sugar, sugar, thicken thicken with with 4 egg egg yolks and poach as for for other other and
royales.

Risotto as Sagan -- Risotto as aa foundation, foundation, adding adding mushrooms mushrooms pur6e of stuffed with with pure of brain brain mixed mixed with with aa salpicon of of truffles. truffes. Sauce. Stock Stock of of the the main main dish dish blended Sauce. blended with Madeira and thickened veal veal stock. stock. thickened (U.S. veal Uses. For For escalopes escalopes ofveal of veal (U.S. Uses. veal sweetveal cutlets); cutlets);veal sweetbreads; suprAfues of breads; of chicken. chicken. pur6e of Saint-Germain 1 I -- Thick green peas, peas, served Thick pure of green served separately. separately. Clear veal veal stock. stock. Sauce. Clear Sauce. Uses.Large small cuts Uses. Large and and small cuts of of meat. meat. Saint-Germain Saint-Germain fi tr -- Artichoke Artichoke hearts hearts simmered simmered in in butter butter pur6e of green peas. peas. This and garnished with garnish is and with pure of green This garnish sometimes referred referred to SOlmetmles to as as Clamart. Clamart. Sauce and and uses. uses. As As above. Sauce above. gras; cocks' Saint-Sans Saint-Sa6ns -- Fritters Fritters of of truffies trufresand and foie cocks' foie gras; kidneys; asparagus tips. kidneys; tips. (ser', SAUCE) Sauce. Sauce. Suprdme sauce sauce (see SAUCE) flavoured flavoured with with (see ESSENCE). Truffie Truffie essence essence (see ESSENCE). poultry. Uses. Uses. For For suprmes suprAmes of of poultry. A la sarde -- Cork-shaped h sarde Cork-shaped croquettes croquettes of of rice rice cooked cooked with with cheese; cheese; mushrooms mushrooms sauted saut6ed in in butter; French beans butter; French in beans in butter. butter. Sauce. Sauce. Thin Thin tomato tomato sauce sauce or or veal veal stock stock flavoured flavoured with with tomato. tomato. Uses. Uses. For For large cuts cuts of of meat. meat. A la la sarrasine sarrasine -- Small Small buckwheat buckwheat cakes, cakes, browned browned in in butter; little (q.v.) oftomatoes rice tartlets, little rice tartlets, filled filled withfondue with/ondue (q.v.) of tomatoes with peppers added. with sweet sweet peppers added. Place Place 1 I or or 2 2 fried fried onion onion rings rings on on each each tartlet. tartlet. Sauce. Thin Demi-glace (see SAUCE). Sauce.Thin Demi-glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Uses. Uses. For large large cuts cuts of of meat. Sauerkraut. Sau erkraut. CHOUCROUTEcHoucRourE - Wash Wash and dr ain the the sauerkraut; s aue r k r au t ; and drain squeeze squeeze it it dry dry and and simmer simmer in in clear clear soup or or white white stock. stock. Semolina (Hungarian cookery). cNoccHr DE Semolina gnocchi (Hungarian SEMOULE (3 oz., sEMouLE -- Work 75 g. (3 tablespoons) butter in a bowl oz., 6 6 tat,les,poons) with a process add 1 spatula. During this (2t oz., g. (2i a spatula. this process I egg, egg, 65 65 g. oz., scant scant t cup) semolina semolina and 2 teaspoons fiour. flour. Season Season with and 2 with salt salt I cup) and pinch of grated nutmeg. and a of grated nutmeg. Work a pinch vigorously with Work vigorously with the the spatula spatula until the mixture is is slightly slightly frothy. frothy. Leave Leave to to stand for stand for 1 I hour. Make Make large oval balls shaped with a put a tablespoon tablespoon and and put pan. Add boiling water them into a buttered pan. water and and leave leave to to simmer for for 20 20 minutes. minutes. Uses. Uses. For For soup. soup. Serge small quartered cooked cooked artichokes artichokes simmered simmered - Very small in in butter; coarsely coarsely shredded ham ham simmered simmered in in Madeira. Ingredients prepared prepared d la la Serge Serge are are dipped dipped in a a mixture mixture of of breadcrumbs mixed with chopped chopped truffles truffies and and mushrooms. Sauce. (see SAUCE) Sauce. Demi-glace sauce sauce (see flavoured with SAUCE) flavoured with Truffie essence essence (see ESSENCE). Uses. .S. veal cutlets); calves' (U.S. Uses. Escalopes of veal veal (U calves' sweetsweetbreads. Spun (lf pints, pints, generous Spun eggs. eggs. OEUFS oEUFs FILS rnfs -- For generous For 1 I litre litre (l~ quart) beat 1 quart) soup, soup, beat I egg egg and and strain it it through through muslin. Put Put it it in a pan containing a fine fine strainer held held over a a frying pan containing boiling boiling consomm. consomm6. Move the strainer backwards and forwards over over Drain the prepared and the stock. Drain the threads threads of egg egg thus thus preparee! and add them to the soup. Uses. Uses. For soup. la strasburrgeoise A sauerkraut: thin thin rectangles rectangles - Braised sauerkraul; of salt salt (pickled) pork cooked with the the sauerkraut; sauerkraut; slices slices of of foie gras gras saut6ed in butter. butter. foie Sauce. Boiled-down pan juices of Sauce. Boiled-down of the the main main dish. dish.
418 418

GASCONY GASCONY
Uses. For For braised or pot-roasted pot-roasted poultry. poultry. A h la srltane sultane - Canapis Canaps of of chicken chicken forcemeat forcemeat (shaped like like cutlets) on on which which chicken chicken suprdmes suprmes are are placed; placed; very very small sm ail tartlets tartlets filled with pur6e pure of trufres truffies with with pieces pieces of of blanched pistachio pistachio nut on top; cocks' combs. combs. SuprAmes Suprmes prepared prepared d la sultane sultane are dipped dipped in in a a mixture mixture of

breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and chopped truffies. truffles. Sauce. Sauce. Suprdme Suprme sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) very very slightly slightly seasoned seasoned with with curry curry powder. powder. Uses. For For supr4mes suprmes of of chicken. chicken. Tomatoes. Tomatoes. ToMATES TOMA TES - Peel Peel small, small, very very firm firm tomatoes, tomatoes, remove remove liquid liquid and and pips, pips, dice dice the the flesh flesh into into squares squares I 1 cm. cm. (t inch) inch) across across and and add add these these to to boiling boiling consomm6. consomm. Leave Lea ve G to to simmer simmer for for 7 minutes minutes and and drain. drain. Uses. Add Add to to soup. soup. TortueTortue- Little Little veal veal quenelles; quenelles; stoned stoned olives; olives; mt',shrooms; mushrooms; sliced sliced truffies truffies and and gherkins; gherkins; freshwater freshwater crayfish crayfish cooked cooked in in a a court-bouillon; court-bouillon; fried egg egg yolks; yolks; heart-shaped heart-shaped pieces pieces of of fried fried bread; bread; small small pieces pieces of of tongue tongue and and calves' ca Ives' brains. brains. Sauce. Sauce. Tortue Tortue sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Uses. Uses. For For veal. veal. A h la toscane toscane - Thick Thick diced diced macaroni macaroni mixed mixed with with a a puree pure of of foie gras; gras; coarsely coarsely diced diced truffies truffies saut6ed sauted in in butter. butter. foie Ingredients Ingredients prepared prepared d la la toscane toscane must must be be dipped dipped in in a a mixture mixture of of breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and grated grated Parmesan Parmesan cheese. cheese. Sauce. Sauce. Thickened Thickened veal veaJ stock. stock. Uses. Uses. For For escalopes escalopes (U.S. (U.S. cutlets) cutlets) of of veal; veal; calves' calves' sweetsweetbreads; breads; breasts breasts of of chicken. chicken. A h )a toulousaine, toulousaine, also a)so called caUed i la la Toulouse Toulouse - Chicken Chicken quenelles; quenelles; cocks' cocks' combs combs and and kidneys; kidneys; braised braised lamb lamb or or calves' calves' sweetbreads; sweetbreads; mushrooms; mushrooms; shredded shredded truffies. truffies. The The elements elements of of this this garnish garnish are are arranged arranged in in separate separa te groups groups and and sometimes sometimes include include chicken chicken livers livers saut6ed sauted in in butter. butter. Sauce. Sauce. Allemande Allemande sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Uses. Uses. For For calves' calves' sweetbreads; sweetbreads; poultry; poultry; savoury savoury pies; pies; tartsl tarts; vol-au-vent. vol-au- vent. A h la trouvitlaise trouvillaise - Shelled Shelled shrimps; shrimps; mussels; mussels; mushrooms. mushrooms. Sauce. Sauce. Shrimp Shrimp sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SA UCE). Uses. Uses. For For fish. fish. Trufres. Truffles. TRUFFES TRUFFES - This This garnish garnish is is very very occasionally occasionally added added to to soups. soups. Shred Shred fresh fresh trufles truffies into into fine fine strips, strips, or or dice dice them them into into small small squares. squares. Put Put these these in in the the boiling boiling soup soup at at the the last last minute. minute. The The heat heat of of the the soup soup is is sufficient sufficient to to cook cook the the truffies. truffies. A Ia la tyrolienne tyrolienne - Tomatoes Tomatoes cut cut into into quarters quarters and and cooked cooked slowly slowly in in butter butter until until very very tender; tender; onion onion rings rings fried fried in in oil. oil. Sauce. Sauce. Reduced Reduced veal veal stock stock with with butter butter added. added. Uses. Uses. For For grilled grilled cuts cuts of of meat meat or or poultry. poultry.

A la Valenciennes Valenciennes - Rice Rice cooked in meat meat stock (or plain boiled boiled rice) rice) mixed with with a a salpicon salpicon of of sweet peppers. peppers. Sauce. Sauce. Pan Pan juices juices of of the the main main dish diluted diluted with with white white wine wine or or tomato-flavoured tomato-flavoured thickened thickened veal veaJ stock. stock. Uses. For small cuts cuts of of meat meat or poultry. poultry. A ta la Valois Valois - Thinly Thinly sliced sliced potatoes potatoes and and slices slices of of artichoke artichoke hearts hearts sauted sauted together together in in butter, butter, served served in the terrine in in
which which the the meat meat is is cooked. cooked. Sauce. Sauce. Pan Pan juices juices with with white white wine wine added added and and veal veal stock stock with with butter butter added. added. Uses. For For small small cuts of of meat. meaL Au Au vert-pr6 vert-pr - Matchstick Matchstick potatoes; potatoes; watercress. watercress. Sauce. Sauce. Mattre Matre d'h6tel d'htel butter (see BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). butters). Uses. For small small cuts cuts of of meat meat and and poultry, poultry, grilled. grilled. Uses. For Victoria Victoria - Small Small tomatoes tomatoes stuffed with with pur6e pure of mushmushrooms; rooms; quartered quartered artichokes artichokes simmered simmered in in butter. butter. Sauce. Sauce. Meat Meat juices juices of of the the main main dish dish blendd blended with with Madeira Madeira or or port port and and thickened thickened veal veal stock. stock. Uses. Uses. For For small small cuts cuts of of meat. meaL A ta la viennoilse viennoise - Whites Whites and and yolks yolks of of hard-boiled hard-boiled egg, egg. chopped chopped separately; separately; anchovy anchovy fillets; fillets; stoned stoned olives; olives; rounds rounds of of lemon lemon with with rind rind and and skin skin removed; removed; capers; capers; chopped chopped parsley, parsley. All All these these ingredients ingredients are are aranged arranged round round the the dish dish in in separate separate groups. groups. Sauce. Sauce. Brown Brown butter butter (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). butters). Uses. Uses. For For small small cuts cuts of of meat meat or or poultry. poultry. This This garnish garnish is is especially especially suitable suitable for for cutlets cutlets (U.S. (U.S. chops) chops) and and escalopes escalopes (U.S. (U.S. cutlets) cutlets) of of veal; veal; breasts breasts of of poultry, poultry, dipped dipped in in breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and saut6ed sauted in in butter. butter. It It can can also also be be served served with with fillets fillets of of fish, fish, chiefly crueBy brill brill (U.S. (U.S. flounder) Bounder) and and sole. sole. Vladimir Vladimir - Cucumbers Cucumbers cut cut in in small small oval oval lengths lengths and and simsimmered mered in in butter; butter; very very small small vegetable vegetable marrows marrows (courgettes, (courgettes, zucchinis) zucchinis) coarsely coarsely diced, diced, saut6ed sauted in in butter. butter. Sauce. Sauce. Stock Stock of of the the main main dish dish blended blended with with sour sour cream, cream, seasoned seasoned with with paprika, paprika, and and with with grated grated horseradish horseradish sprinkled sprinkled on on top. top. Uses. Uses. For For small small cuts cuts of of meat. meaL

GARUM GARUM - Type Type of of condiment, condiment, much mu ch used used as as a a spice spice in in ancient ancient Roman Roman cookery. cookery. It It was was probably probably pickling pickling brine brine
derived derived from from salting salting seawater seawater fish fish - scomber scomber or or mackerel mackerel in in particular particular - and and squeezing squeezing them them to to extract extract the the liquid. liquid. The The best best known, known, extracted extracted from from scomber, scomber, was was called called garwn garum nigrum.It nigrum. It was was put put in in little little pots, pots, as as mustard mustard is is nowanowadays, days, and and each each guest guest flavoured flavoured it it to to his rus own own liking, liking, one one with with vinegar vinegar (oenogarum), (oenogarum), another another with with water water (hydrogarum), (hydrogarum), another another with with oil oil (oleogarum). (oleogarum). The The garum garum piperatum piperatum was, was, as as its its name name indicates, indicates, strongly strongJy flavoured flavoured with with pepper. pepper.
Ancient province province which which once once -- Ancient included included the the Landes, Landes, Basque, Basque, Chalosse, Chalosse, Condomois, Condomois, ArmagArmagnac, nac, Comminges, Comminges, Couserans, Couserans, Lomagne, Lomagne, Astarac Astarac and and Bigorre Bigorre districts districts and and part part of of the the Bordelais Bordelais and and Bazadais Bazadais districts. districts. It It has has always always been been a a land land of ofhigh high gastronomic gastronomic repute. repute. The The inhabitants inhabitants have have maintained maintained the the cult cult of ofgood good eating eating in in the dpartements which which have have been been formed formed within within the the the dipartements boundaries boundaries of of Gascony Gascony - Hautes-Pyr6n6es, Hautes-Pyrnes, Gers, Gers, Landes, Landes, part part of of the the Basses-Pyr6n6es, Basses-Pyrnes, Haute Haute Garonne, Garonne, Lot-etLot-etGaronne Garonne and and Tarn-et-Garonne. Tarn-et-Garonne. Gallimaufry Gallimaufry was was created created in in this this region. region. This This is is the the dish dish for for which which Taillevent, Taillevent, master master chef chefof ofKing King Charles Charles VII, VII, gave gave the the recipe, recipe, and and the the name name of ofwhich, wruch, no-one no-one quite quite knows knows why, why, has has become become a a synonym synonym for for a a bad bad stew. stew. this province Culinaryspecialities specialities-- The The good good things things of ofthis province are are Culinaly many. They They include include the the hams hams of of the the Landes Landes and and of of Ossau, Ossau, many. eaten eaten raw rawlike like those those of ofParma, Parma, or orused used rnfricassis infricasss of ofvarious various

GASCONY. GASCONY. cAscocNE GASCOGNE

Garnish Debillot. Phot. Garnish dla latvrolienne tyrolienne( (Debi//ot. Phot. Larousse\ Larousse)

4t9 419

GASTRONOME GASTRONOME

(lmcfctte landoi* 1 i--_ ----'-l - Choudiru,

Bouiffoh of goose

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Goat's mllk

goose livers kinds; goose livers and and duck kinds; duck livers; buntings; preserves of goose and and of of pork; savoury goose pork; the sa voury oysters of Cap Breton; and the potted and pdtds and and, truffled trffiedfoie the potted meats and foie gras of the Gers, the Landes and and the ..... Lot-et-Garonne. "'L-....,L-'-'al Nor must we forget Madarin wine and the rich and heady Nor heady Armagnac.

GASTRONOME GASTRONOME back to - Slightly pedantic term, dating back the beginning of the nineteenth century, signifying '" onllv,,.,o experts in gastronomy. Genuine connoisseurs connoisseurs in matters of good food are satisfied with the the name gourmand which, though normnormally ally translated as'greedy', as 'greedy', has no derogatory overtones in
French. French. The The true gastronome, while while esteeming esteeming the most most refined products products of the culinary arts, arts, enjoys them in moderation, moderation, and, and, for for his his normal normal fare, seeks seeks out out the simplest dishes. While he not himself himself a practitioner practitioner of of the culinary art, he knows he is not enough enough of of its methods to to be be able able to to pass pass judgment judgment on a a dish and which it and to to recognise recognise the ingredients ingredients of ofwhich it is is composed. composed.

GASTRONOMIC GASTRONOMIC ASSOCIATIONS. ASSOCIATIONS. cAsrRoNoMreuEs GASTRONOMIQUES (lcnofrvrns, AssocrATroNs, Acadmie ASSOCIATIONS, cRor;pnurNrs) GROUPEMENTS) - The Acadimie des Gostronomes was founded by Curnonsky Curnonsky in in 1927. 1927. lt It Gastronomes was admits admits forty fort y members, members, consisting consisting of of gourmets, gourmets, lovers lovers of of goodfood, good food, culinarywriters, culinary writers, and and amphitryons. Each Each occupies occupies the the seat seat of of a a former great gourmet and upon upon election election is is called upon to to deliver deliver an address in honour honour of of his his preprecalled upon
decessor. decessor. But But the the Acadimie Acadmie des des Gastronomes Gastronomes was was not not the the first first of of its its kind. kind. Without Without going so so far far back back as as the the ancient ancient confriries,the confrries, the earliest earliest of of the the modern associations associations is is the the Chb Club des des cent cent

founded founded n in l9l2 1912 by by the the gourmand-journalist Louis Louis Forest. Forest. The The Club Club des des cent cent is is a a very very active active body with with its its own own conficonfidential dential (and (and very very severe) severe) personal personal guide. guide. It It awards awards diplomas, diplomas, but but rarely. rarely. It It awards awards a a substantial substantial gastronomic gastronomic literary literary prize prize annually. annually.

The Acadmie des psychologues &t du go,frt gout is IS called The Acadimie des psychologues called the 'Jockey club of eating' and was was founded in in 1922.It 1922. It counts members. many ambassadors ambassadors among its members. Acadmie Rabelais Rabelais groups together writers, writers, painters, The Acadimie and designers interestod interested in food. The Association amicale amicale des des amateurs amateurs d'authentiques d'authentiques The Association the most most rigid and and most most exandouillettes (A.A.A.A.A.) is the clusive (five members) members) of the gastronomic associations. associations. Its members believe believe in simple, substantial and wholesome wholesome fare. members designed by by Henry Monier, is awarded to A rare diploma, designed the mo'st mos! outstanding amphytryons amphytryons of of the A.A.A.A.A. A.A.A.A.A. The The Association Association des gastronomes gastronomes amateurs amateurs de de poisson poisson (1937) (1937) is the fish lovers' association. association. The Association des gastronomes gastronomes rigionalistes rgionalistes (1924) is the The of gastronomes gastronomes interested in regional regional cookery. cookery. association of Table was founded by by the engraver and painter painter The Belle Table itself as as much with with the the d6cor dcor of Georges Villa. It concerns itself the table as with with the food food servod served thereon. thereon. the Club de la casserole, founded founded by by Ren6 Ren Lasserre, Lasserre, is is the the The Club gourmet club club of fashionable fashionable Paris. Paris. Its Its insignia insignia is is a a tiny tiny saucepan key key ring. ring. Its formal formaI galas, which which ,include fashion saucepan include fashion haute couture, coffires, furs and jewels, Lttract shows of haute many of the the leading personalities of stage and screen. The many grand grand finale finale ofa of a typical gala gala is is the the release release of of doves. doves. At the the Club Club des des gourmettes, gourmettes, the the conversation conversation is is of ofcooking, cooking, At and the the members members really really know know what what they they are are talking talking about. about. and The The Club Club Prosper-Montagni Prosper-Montagn is is where where restaurateurs, restaurateurs, p ptissires, charcutiers, and similar similar foregather. foregather. d t is siir e s, c har cut ie r s, and The The Club Club des des purs purs cent cent is is a a splinter spI inter group group of of the the Club Club des des numbers about about flfty fifty gourmets. gOlurrnet.s. cent and numbers cent The Commanderie Commanderie des des cordons-bleus, in in Dijon, Dijon, awards awards The diplomas to to the the best best restaurateurs. restaurateurs. diplomas The Compagnie Compagnie des des gentilshommes gentilshommes de de gueule gueule (1928) (1928) The organises monthly monthly informal informaI dinners dinners presided presided over over by by a a organises cultured and and refined reflned speaker. speaker. cultured
420 420

GASTRONOMIC GASTRONOMIC CUSTOMS CUSTOMS

The Confririe Confrrie de de la la pochouse pochouse extol extol this this eminent eminent regional regional The dish of of Verdun-sur-le-Doubs. Verdun-sur-le-Doubs. dish chansonnes de de France France is is an an association association of of female female The iichansonnes gourmands reluctant reJuctant to to leave Jeave all ail there there is is to to say say about about wine wine to gourmands men alone. aJone. men The Fin Fin Palais Palais (1927) (1927) is s an an association association of of gourmand gourmand The lawyers. lawyers. The Galants Galants de de la la verte verte marennes marennes wed wed their their oysters oysters to the the The whole range range of of white white wines wines of of the the territory. territory. whole The Sociiti Socit de gastronomie gastronomie mddicale mdicale groups together together the The gourmets. medical gourmets. medical The Taste-Moungettes of Comminges extol extol the the haricot The beans of the the region, indispensable indispensa ble ingredient of of the the casbeans soulet, the the Luchon pistache pistache and several other dishes. soulet,
Frogs. Frogs. July. July. Freshwater Freshwater fish: fish: eel, eel, pike, pike, gudgeon, gudgeon, tencho tench, trout, trout, salmon (rare). (rare), gurnet, Sea Sea fish: shad, bass, bass, cod, cod, sea sea bream, bream, smelt smelt (rare), gurnet, salmon mackerel, mackerel, plaice, plaice, ray, ray, sardines, sardines, sole sole (rare), (rare), tuna, tuna, salmon trout, trou t, turbot. Frogs. grayling, carp, grayling, August. Freshwater Freshwater fish: fish: eel, eel, bream, bream, pike, pike, carp, perch, tench, river trout. river trout. gurnet Sea fish: fish: bass, brill brill (rare), (rare), cod, cod, sea sea bream, bream, smelt, smelt, gurnet (rare), salmon salmon sole (rare), (rare), (rare), mackerel, plaice, plaice, ray, ray, sardines, sardines, sole trout. trout, turbot. c&tP, Freshwater fish: September. Freshwater fish: eel, eel, bream, bream, pike, pike, carp, grayling, perch, tench, river trout. tench, river trout. (rare), brill smelt, sea bream, bream, smelt, cod, sea brill (rare), cod, Sea fish: bass bass (rare), (rare), turbot turbot trout (rare), (rare), plaice, salmon trout ray, sole, salmon gurnet (rare), plaice, ray, (rare). (rare). carp, bream, pike, carp, barbel, bream, fish: eel, eel, barbel, October. Freshwater fish: October. river trout trout (rare). perctr, tench, tench, river gudgeon, grayling, perch, (rare), smelt, (rare), sea smelt, sea bream bream (rare), brill (rare), Sea fish: bass (rare), brill sole, salmon salmon plaice, ray, ray, sole, (rare), herring, cod, plaice, gurnet (rare), dab, cod, herring, dab, gurnet (rare). trout (rare), turbot (rare). pike, carp, carp' bream, pike, eel, barbel, bream, November. Freshwater fish: eel, perch, tench. gudgeon, grayling, perch, gurnet, smelt, gurnet, brill, gilthead (rare), smelt, Sea fish: bass (rare), brill, trout salmon trout cod, plaice, ray, sole, salmon whiting, cod, dab, whiting, herring, dab, herring, (rare), turbot (rare). pike, carp, carp, bream, pike, barbel, bream, fish: eel, eel, barbel, Freshwater fish: December. Freshwater gudgeon, grayling, perch, tench. (rare), smelt. sturgeon, smelt, sturgeon, sea bream bream (rare), brill, sea Sea fish: bass (rare), brill, plaice, ray, ray' sole, sole, mullet, plaice, cod, mullet, whiting, cod, gurnet, herring, dab, whiting, turbot. salmon trout (rare), turbot. March. February, March. January, February, cRusrAcfs -- January, Crustaceans. CRUSTACS Lobster, crayfish. shrimps, prawns, shrimps, crab, prawns, crayfish, crab, Lobster, crayfish, April and May. Lobster, freshwater crayfish. freshwater prawns, shrimps, shrimps, freshwater Crab, prawns, July, August. Crab, June, July, June, crayfish. crayfish. prawns, shrimps, shrimps, crab, prawns, crayfish, crab, Lobster, crayfish, September. September. Lobster, crayfish. freshwater crayfish. freshwater crayfreshwater crayLobster, freshwater December. Lobster, November, December. October, November, October, fish. fish. April, March, April, January, February, March, MoLLUsQuEsMolluscs. MOLLUSQUES - January, MoUuscs. is to to say say the the December (that is November, December October, November, September, September, October, mussels. Oysters, mussels. name). Oysters, 'r' in in their their name). an 'r' months with an months with
cAsrRoNoMIQLrEs usAcES GASTRONOMIQUESCUSTOMS. USAGES GASTRONOMIC GASTRONOMIC CUSTOMS. period and and the the to the the period according to vary according customs vary Gastronomic Gastronomic customs

CALENDAR. GASTRONOMIC CALENDAR.

MIQUE MIeLJE

cALENDRIER CALENDRIER GAsrRoNoGASTRONO-

period of the Below, month by month, is the best period year to to eat ea t the following following in France: year VIANDES DE BoucHERre BOUCHERiE - All Ali the year round. round. Beef, Beer, Meat. vIANDEs mu Hon, veal. mutton, Ali the the year round round except July, August. Pork. AII Al! the year year round except except July, July, August and September. All Lamb. Lamb. goose, pigeon, Poultry. voLAILLEsVOLAILLEs-January. Duck, turkey, goose, pigeon. January. Duck, Poultry. guinea fowl, chicken. guinea chicken. poulard. fowl, poulard. turkey, pigeon, guinea fowl, February. Duck, turkey, March. Duck, pigeon, poulard. poulard. poulard, chicken. April. Duck, pigeon, poulard, May, June. Duck, goose, pigeon, pigeon, poulard, chicken. May,June. Duck, turkey, goose, pigeon, guinea goose, pigeon, July Duck, turkey, turkey, goose, to December. December. Duck, July to fowl, poulard, poulard, chicken. Game. t, venison, venison, quail, rabbit, Hutch rabbi January. Hutch cIBIER Game. GIBiER - January. grouse, woodcock, curlew, grouse, wild duck, duck, curlew, snipe, capercaillie, wild woodcock, snipe, ployer, plover, teal. February, snipe, caperHutch rabbit, woodcock, snipe, March. Hutch February, March. caillie, wild duck, grouse, plover, teal. curlew, grouse, duck, curlew, curlew, April. wild duck, duck, curlew, snipe, capercaillie, wiJd April. Woodcock, Woodcock, snipe, grouse, plover, teal. May Capercaillie, grouse, plover, teal. May to to August. August. Capercaillie, September venison, rabbit, venison, hutch rabbit, Hare, hutch to December. December. Hare, September to wild partridge, capercaillie, wild quail, pheasant, pheasant, woodcock, woodcock, capercaillie, partridge, quail, duck, curlew, grouse, plover, teal. curlew, grouse, polssoNs -- January. Fisb. barbel, fish: eel, eel, barbel, January. Freshwater fish: Fish. POISSONS bream, tench. salmon, tench. bream, carp, perch, salmon, (rare), smelt, Sea smelt, (rare), brill, plaice, sea sea bream bream (rare), brill, plaice, fish: bar (rare), Sea fish: (rare), whiting, sturgeon, whiting, mackerel (rare), gurnet, herring, herring, dab, dab, mackerel sturgeon, gurnet, (rare), turbot. cod, turbot. trout (rare), salmon trout sole, salmon ray, sardines, sardines, sole, cod, mullet, mullet, ray, perch, salmon. salmon' gudgeon, perch, fish: eel, eel, gudgeon, Freshwater fish: February. Freshwater (rare), smelt, smelt, (rare), brill, sea bream bream (rare), brill, plaice, sea Sea fish: bar (rare), sturgeon, (rare), whiting, cod, whiting, cod, mackerel (rare), gurnet, herring, herring, dab, mackerel sturgeon, gurnet, mullet. (rare), turbot. turbot. trout (rare), salmon trout sole, salmon ray, sardines, sardines, sole, mullet, ray, March. gudgeon, salmon. salmon. fish: eel, eel, gudgeon, March. Freshwater Freshwater fish: Sea smelt, (rare), briJl, plaice, sea sea bream, bream, smelt, brill, plaice, fish: shad shad (rare), Sea fish: (rare), whiting, ~""b~~'~' cod, whiting, cod, mackerel (rare), gurnet, herring, dab, dab, mackerel sturgeon, gurnet, (rare), turbot. (rare), salmon turbot. trout (rare), salmon trout mullet, ray, sardines, sardines, sole (rare), April. river trout. trout' gudgeon, salmon, salmon, river fish: eel, eel, gudgeon, April.Freshwater fish: (rare), Sea smelt (rare), plaice, sea bream, smeJt sea bream, bass, brill, brill, plaice, fish: shad, shad, bass, Sea fish: sturgeon, ray, mullet, ray, cod, muUet, whiting, cod, gurnet, dab, mackerel, whiting, dab, mackerel, sturgeon, gurnet, sardines, turbot. salmon trout, trout, turbot. sole (rare), salmon sardines, sole : eel, river trout. trout. salmon, river eel, gudgeon, salmon, May.Freshwater fish: Sea . shad, (rare), gurnet, smelt (rare), sea bream, smelt cod, sea bass,cod, shad, bass, Sea fish: dab, sole (rare), ray, sardines, sardines, sole mullet, ray, dab, mackerel, mackerel, whiting, mullet, tuna, trout, turbot. salmon trout, tuna. salmon June. (rare), tench, tench, gudgeon, salmon salmon(rare), fish: eel, eel, gudgeon, Freshwater fish: June. Freshwater river river trout. trout. Sea (rare), gurnet, smelt (rare), bream, smelt cod, sea sea bream, bass,cod, Sea fish: fish: shad, shad, bass, mackerel, tuna, sole (rare), tuna, ray, sardines, sardines, sole mackerel, mullet, mullet, plaice, ray, salmon, salmon, trout, trout, turbot.

country. country. the only the person admits as orthodox orthodox only admits as The The narrow-minded narrow-minded person and is accustomed, accustomed, and he is to which which he seasonings to methods methods and and seasonings of the theart art of of conception of different conception who have have aadifferent considers those who considers those quite barbarous. barbarous. eating eating quite salad. quite usual sugar to to aasalad. to add addsugar places it usual to it is isquite In In sorne some places authorities, French authorities, certainFrench exclaim certain Heresy! Abomination! exclaim Heresy! Abomination! toadd add the ordinary ordinary to out of of the it nothing nothing out who think it nevertheless think who nevertheless (lamb's lettuce lettuce or or ofmche mdche (lamb's toaasaI salad slices ad of beetroot to slices of ofsweet sweet beetroot cookedfruit fruit sweet cooked in England, sweet and in corn In Germany salad). In Germany and corn salad). denounce same cri critics meat, and and thesame is tics denounce the meat, servedwith with the is often often served garnish of permitaagarnish yet they of would permit this they would taste; yet depraved taste; this depraved fruit mu much (which is offruit butaa pur6eof nothing but chestnut ch isnothing chestnut puree (which orseasonseasonsweeter somecooked cooked apples or cranberries),or sweeter than sorne orregaling regaling venison with redcurrant jelly,or haunch of ofvenison ing aa haunch racines or auxracines or or caillesaux I'orangeor thf~m~~e]1,es canetondl'orange with caneton themselves with fruits. garnished with with sweet sweetfruits. other dishes garnished savourydishes other savoury not the thesame sameeveryevery' arenot gastronomic usages usagesare In Inany any case casegastronomic provincefound found each province ofeach description of where and the thedescription inFrance, France,and where in thisc1early. clearly. shows this ordershows in inalphabetical alphabetical order in this thisdictionary dictionary in
421 421

GATEAU GTEAU
Not only preparations different only are are the the culinary culinarypreparations different but butthe theway way Not the food food is isserved served and and the the arrangement arrangement of ofthe the meals meals vary. vary. the Thus in in Flanders Flandersit it is the established is the established custom customto toserve serve soup soupat at Thus the beginning beginning of principal meal of the the principal mealof of the the day. day. In In other other the regions the the habit habit of of drinking drinking aa trou trou de demilieu milieuor, or, in in NorNorregions mandy, a a trou persisted. trou Normande, Normande, has has persisted. mandy, The trou trou de de milieu miliat consists consists of ofserving, serving, in inthe the middle middle of of the the The generally before meal, generally before the the service service of glasses of the theroast, roast, small small glasses meal, of spirituous spirituous liqueurs liqueurs of of various various kinds; kinds; Cognac, Cognac,Armagnac, Armagnac, of quetsche, Calvados, marc, quetsche, Calvados, kirsch, kirsch, etc. etc. In In the the south-west south-west of of marc, France, where where this this custom custom used used to to be be traditional, traditional, the young the young France, daughter of of the the house house offered guests these offered the theguests placed these liqueurs liqueurs placed daughter great sil on a a great silver tray. on ver tray. practice, although In modem modern practice, although the the custom custom of of the the trou trou de de In persists in miliat still still persists parts, the some parts, in sorne the sorbet, still made sorbet, still made with with aa milieu liqueur or base of of liqueur or liqueur liqueur wine, wine, has has for for the part taken the most most part taken base place. its place. its
SCC CAKE. GATEAU -- See CAKE. GTEAU

finelysliced slicedshallot, shallot,chopped chopped chervil cherviland andaacup cupof oficed icedwater. finely water. Leaveto tosoak soakfor for30 30minutes. minutes.Ten Tenminutes minutesbefore Leave beforeserving, serving, add thinly thinlysliced slicedcucumber, cucumber, slices slicesof ofbread, bread,more add morewater, water,ifif necessary,and andcubes cubesof ofice. ice.Serve Servevery necessary, verycold. cold.

GEANS CHERRIES. CHERRIES. GUIGNES curcNEs- - Species Speciesof ofred, red,black, GEANS black,or or white cherry. cherry.They arefirm firmand Theyare andfairly fairlysweet. white sweet. Geansare mainly used aremainly usedin inFrance Franceto tomake makeaaliqueur liqueur called Geans called Guignolet, which which is specialityof isaaspeciality ofthe thetown townof Guignolet, ofAngers. Angers.
GEBIE Smallshellfish, shellfish, whitish whitishin GE BlE -- Small our, found incol colour, foundin inFrench French coastal waters. waters. It It can can be becooked cooked like coastal likeshrimps, shrimps, and andis isused used mainlyas asbait baitfor for large largefish. mainly fish.

given in GAUDES -- The The na name in Franche-Comt, Franche-Comt6, Burgundy, Burgundy, GAUDES me given and other other districts districts to to a a kind kind of porridge or of maize maizr flour flour porridge or and pudding somewhat somewhat similar polenta, or similar to to the the Italian Italian polenta, or to to pudding hasty-pudding. hast y-pudding. gaudes. GAUDES Franche-Cont6 gaudes. cAUDES DE DE FRANCHE-COMT FRANcHE-corrlrE -- Pour Pour Franche-Comt (3 quarts, into a saucepan containing a saucepan quarts, 7i pints) containing Ji 3f litres litres (3 7} pints) into (18 oz., g. (18 salted boiling boiling water, water, 500 500 g. oz., 3 3 cups) cups) maize maize flour flour which which salted has been mixed in in cold been mixed cold water water to to a a smooth smooth consistency. Mix consistency. Mix has pudding, stirring well. Cook this pudding. Cook this stirring constantly constantly with with a large a large weIl. wooden spoon, spoon, until g. (4 (4 oz., until it it is thick. Add Add 100 is thick. 100 g. oz., ~ cup) wooden i cup) butter, Serve Serve hot. hot. butter. this pudding, after after it is cooked, poured into it is cooked, is is poured into Sometimes this where it it is is left left to to cool. cool. It It is is th then cut into into slices slices en cut small bowls where which are heated in in butter and and sprinkled sprinkled with with fine fine sugar. sugar. gaudes may The gaudes may also also be be served servod cold, cold, in in which which case case the the The pourod into mou is poured gaudes moulds. When the the gaudes maize flour mixture is Ids. When cooled, they they are are turned turned out out of of the the moulds and eaten and eaten have cooled, with sugar. (A LA) GAULOISE ( garnish consisting of tA) a garnish GAUWISE of - Name used for a combs and and kidneys which which is is served served with cocks' combs with cJear clear soup soup (see SOUPS AND AND BROTHS). BROTH$. (see SOUPS It is used, too, for a a garnish served with It used, too, with large large and small and small vol-au-vent cocks' kidneys as vo/-au-vent or pies, pies, having cocks' as its chief ingretongue and truffies added. dient, with pickled pickled ton gue and added. This filling filling is blended (see SAUCE) Suprdme sauce sauce (see blended in in Suprme SAUCE) flavoured flavoured with with Madeira. Madeira. The name is used for for little cakes is used cakes made made of Genoa cake nrixture mixture (see CAKE, Genoa cake) cake) cooked cookd. in special moulds (moules (mou/es d diplomates), dipromates), spread jam and spread with apricot jam grilled and grilled chopped almonds.

GELATINE. GLATINE cfrernrE - - Amorphous, GELATINE. Amorphous,colourless colourless solid, solid, without smell, smell, which which swells without swells in inwater. water.When Whenmixed mixedin inhot hot water, it jellywhen it forms forms aaviscous viscous substance water, substance which which turns turnsto tojelly when provided that the mixture mixture is iscold, cold, provided the that it ithas has not not been beenallowed allowed to to boil for for too too long. long. boil produced by Gelatineis is produced Gelatine by the the action action of of heat heat upon uponaasubsubstance contained contained in stance inbones, bones,cartilage cartilage and and tendons. tendons. It Itis isused used in in jellies. preparation of the preparation the of jellies. gelatine. GRNTlNE Leaf gelatine. Leaf A pure cnfNfrrxn --A pureand and transparent transparent form form of of gelatine used pharmacy and gelatine used in in pharmacy and cookery. cookery.
GELOSE. GLOSE GELOSE. cfir.osr -- Synonym Synonym of ofagar-agar. agar-agar. A A viscous viscous subsubstance extracted extracted from from certain stance uch used certain marine marinealgae. algae. M Much used in in Japan in preparation of jellies. in the the preparation Japan of fruit fruit and and other other jellies.
GENDARME GEIYDARME -- French popular name French popular pickled herring. name for for pickled herring. This name This name is given to is also also given to a type of a type of sausage, sausage,dry dry and and very very hard, which hard, which is is made made in in Switzerland Switzerland and and bears bears sorne some slight slieht resemblance resemblance to to a a herring herring in in appearance. appearance. GENEVOISE GENEVOISE SAUCE SAUCT -- Sauce, Sauce, originally originallycalled called Gnoise, Gdnoise, served served only only with with fish. fish. It It js (See is flavoured flavoured with with red red wine. wine. (See SAUCE.) SAUCE.) GENISTA a number GENISTA (Broom). cBwEr- Botanical Botanical name name for fora number of of @room). GENTplants of of the the broom family. They broom family. They have have butterfly-like butterfly-like flowers. flowers. Broom Broom buds buds are are sometimes pickled in sometimes pickled vinegar and in vinegar as and used used as a a substitute substitute for for capers. capers. GENOESE. GENOESE. GNOISE c6Norsr -- Gnoise Ginoise was was the the name name of of a sauce a sauce served served only only with with fish fish cooked cooked in in a (salmon and a court-bouillon court-bouillon (salmon and salmon salmon trout trout in particular). Nowadays, in particular). Nowadays, this this sauce sauce is is caUed called Genevoise. Geneyoise. In In confectionery, cakes cakes made from a made from a Genoese Genoese mixture mixture are are caUed called Genoese cakes. cakes. pArE Genoese Genoese cake I. PT A GNOISE cake J. cENorsE -- Ingredients. ( 1 8 oz., g. (18 ftg," e dient s. 500 500 g. oz., 2i cups) sieved 2f cups) fine sugar, (lS oz., g. (18 sugar, 500 500 g. oz., 4~ g. sieved flour, flour, 500 500 g. $cups) (18 oz., 2i 2ol cups) butter, butter, 16 16 eggs, eggs, a a pinch of vanilla bean. of salt, I vanilla salt, 1 bean.

GAYETTES (Provenal cookery) cookery)Type of offlat GA YETfES (Provemgal flat sausage sausage made - Type ofpork of pork liver liver and fresh bacon bacon encased encased in pork pork caul and cooked in in the oven. oyen. They are generally served cold, as (See as an an hors-d'uuvre. hors-d'uvre. (See PORK, PORK, Pork Pork liver /iver gayettes.) gayettes.)
GAZELLE - Antelope Antelope found in northern northem and western western Asia GAZELLE in central central Africa. Africa. and in gazelle is The meat meat of of the the gazelle is very good to eat. It should first The be left in a a mild mild marinade. marinade. All Ali the recipes recipes appropriate to be roebuck (q.v.) and venison (q.v.) (q.v.) are suitable for gazelle. roebuck GAZPACHO (Spanish (Spanish cookery). cookery). cAspAcHo GASPACHO GAZPACHO
- Soup-salad Soup-salad fresh cucumber, cucumber, tomatoes, tomatoes, sweet sweet peppers, peppers, and made of fresh made slices of of bread bread moistened moistened with with water. water. slices Soak the the skinned, skinned, sliced, and and deseeded deseeded tomatoes, and the the Soak sliced, deseeded deseeded peppers peppeTs in in a a dressing dressing prepared prepared as follows: sliced, Pound in in a a mortar mortar 2 2 cloves cl oves of of garlic. garlic. Season Season with with salt, salt, pepper, pepper, Pound and a a little little cumin. cumin. Blend Blend with with oil oil and vinegar; vinegar; add a little and

Gazelle Gazelle
(Grn) (Griin)

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GHERKIN GHERKIN
Method. Method. Put Put the the sugar, sugar, eggs, eggs, salt, salt, and and vanilla vanilla bean bean in in a a pan and whisk whisk over over very very gentle gentle heat. heat. When When the the mixture mixture begins begins to and foam and and rise ri se well well up up in the the pan, pan, remove remove from the the stove stove and

continue whisking whisking until it is is cold. Still beating beating the mixture, mixture, continue add the the flour, flour, using using a dredger, and the the butter, butter, which should be melted melted and tepid. tepid. be into baking tins tins and and bake bake in in the oven oyen at at 190'C. 190 c C. Pour into (375"F., (375F., Gas Mark 5) for 40 to 45 minutes. Geooese cake II. n. pArE PT A cENoIsr GNOISE A L'ANcIENNu L'ANCIENNE - Ingre' IngreGenoese dients. 500 g. g. (18 (18 oz., oz., 2| 2i cups) fine sugar, 500 g. g. (18 (18 oz., dients.500 oz., I 4i- cups) sieved flour, flour, 175 g. g. (6 (6 oz., 1 cup) cup) sweet almonds, 4| (l oz.,2t oz., 2t tablespoons) bitter bitter almonds, 300 g. g. (ll (II oz., 25 g. (1 11 cups) butter, 12 eggs, eggs, small pinch of salt. l{ Method. M ethod. Blanch and pound the the almonds to to a fine powder powder in sugar, eggs. Add the sugar, a mortar. Put in a bowl and mix in 2 eggs. flour, flour, and and 5 whole whole eggs. eggs. Beat with a a wooden spoon for 5 butter, and the remainminutes. Add 5 egg yolks, the melted butter, beaten. ing whites, beaten. mixture into buttered baking baking tins tins and bake bake in a hot Put the mixture oyen. oven. Bake a L'ABRIcor GNOISE A L'ABRICOT - Bake Apricot Geooese cake. c6Nots Apricot Genoese cake. 3 layers of equal Genoese cake. cake. Slice it horizontally into into 3 Slice it jam through siwe and flavour thickness. Rub Rub apricot apricotjam through a sieve flavour it with with thickness. the middle cake. Cover I layer layer of cake. kirsch. Spread on 1 Co ver with the kirsch. Spread on jam. Set the last slice carefully carefully on slice. Spread with apricot apricot jam. together as top of of the other. See that the edges of the cake fit togetber possible. neatly as possible. jam, and and Spread the top and sides of of the cake with apricot jam, flavoured with kirsch. ice it with with a Fondant icing (see ICING) flavouFed and chopped chopped The The cake be sprinkled with blanched and cake may may be almonds, and pistachio nuts or pistachio nuts chopped browned browned almonds, with chopped or with Roy al icing (see ICING). decorated fruits or Royal decorated with crystallised fruits

Genme Genoese cehe cake with witb fiIliry fiIling i la la normonde. oormaude. c&Nols GNOISE FouxRfo FOURRE i round round Genoese cake cake horizontally horizontally into into 2layers 2 layers ofequal of equal thickness. thickness. Moisten Moisten the the halv,esw,ith halves with Calvados. Calvapos. Spread Spread one half half with with thick thick apple jam jam mixod mixed with with half half its its weight of of Frenchpastry French pastry cream crUlm (see (see CRFAMS) CREAMS) flavoured flavoured with with Spread Calvados. Place half of of the cake on on top. top. Spread Place the other half icing (see apricot jam jam over over the the cake and and ice ice with Forlant Fondant icing (see quartered ICING) ICING) flavoured with Calvados. Decorate with with quartered of apples cookod cooked in syrup, halves of almonds, and lozpngss lozenges of angelica. angelica. sweral cENTIANE GENTIAN. GENTIANE - General General name name given given to to several gentian, as as well well' The large species of of plants. The large gentian or yellow yellow gentian, preparation of of of this as other other flowers of tbis family, are used used in the preparation is distilled distilled a digestive liqueur, certain ap6ritifs. Gentiane, a certain apritifs. liqueur, is has a and has a Switzerland, and France and from in France and Switzerland, from the the gentian gentian in distinctive distinctive taste much prized in these countries. gentim is is treatOO of the gentian root of treated either bitter-tasting root The large, bitter-tasting infusion. by soaking or infusion. (Earth,eater). GOPHAGE AmericEoPnAcE Certain AmeriGEOPHAGIST (Eartb-eater). GEOPHAGISf - Certain of clay clay soil. soil. to eat eat a a type of scarcity can Indians in times of scarci ty used used to only to to create create an an value, and and serves serves only has no no food food value, This soil soil has This illusion of satiety. are there are and America, there In different different parts of Asia, Africa, and ln yellow races racs are are especially especially geophagists. The yellow whole tribes of geophagists. it has has been been peculiar custom, although it custom, although to this this peculiar addicted to addicted ethnic peoples belonging to to other other ethnic in several several peoplesbelonging observed in observed all latitudes. in almost aIl found in groups. Geophagists are to be found groups. for the food for and Sumatra, Sumatra, the clay which provides food In Java and Accord: preparation in advance. advance. Accordsome preparation inhabitants undergoes sorne inhabitants after ail all paste with water after a paste is mixed into a to Hekmeyer, it is ing to other hard (such as stones and and other sand and and stones as sand bodies (such foreign bodies foreign into thin thin rolled out out into It is i.s then then rollOO removed. ft have been been removed. matter) have matter) fire. pan over a a charcol;ll charcoal tire. in an an iron pan and baked baked in cakes and
LA LA NoRMANpeNORMANDE- Slice Slice a

potatoes, especially potatoes, for certain certain foods, especially GEORGETTEGEORGETTE- Name for crayfish tails. freshwater crayfish of freshwater ragofit of tails. a ragot stuffed with a which are stuffed which

Germon

Genoese (Ko/lar) filling(Kollar) with chocolate chocolate fiJling cake with Genoese cake

(tuna) sometimes for tunny sometimes also also Another name name for tunny (tuna) GERMONGERMON - Another fish. its resemblance resemblanoe to to that that fish. of its called white tunny, tunny, because because of ca lied white germon, which in the Mediteris to to be found in the MediterThe common which is be found common germon, The quite good eating. All eating. Ali makes qui ranean, has has white white flesh flesh which which makes ranean, te good germon. In (tuna) may for germon. In be used used for may be for tunny tunny (tuna) recipes suitable suitable for recipes (tuna tunny (tuna is a a white-meat white-meat tunny coast albacore albacore is the Pacific Pacific coast U.S.A. the V.S.A. fish). fish).

Genoese nounn6n AU eu cENoIs FOURRE filling. GNOISE chocolate fiUing. with chocolate Genoese cake cake with 3 layers layers into 3 horizontally into cake horizontally a Genoese Genoese cake Slice a - Slice butter cream cream of equal thickness. layer of of Chocolate Chocolate butter Spread a a layer ofequal thickness. Spread (see (see CREAMS) with another another slice. slice. slice of of cake. cake. Coyer Cover with I slice CREAMS) on on 1 Spread the on top top of of the last slice slice on Lay the the last cream. Lay with the the butter butter cream. Spread with others. parts finnly together. firmly together. gently to three parts stick the the three to stick others. Press Press gently jam and Spread with and sprinkle sprinkle with apricot jam with apricot and sides sides with Spread the the top top and chocolate and thousands. thousands. hundreds and chocolate hundreds Genoese rounnnr AU .lu c6Nots FOURRE mocha cream. cream. GNOISE with mocha Genoese cake cake with MOKA Infilling. Inchocolate filling. cake with with chocolate Genoese cake MoKA -- Made Made like like Genoese put stead is put cream is coffee butter butter cream cream, coffee butter cream, stead of of chocolate chocolate butter between the top top and and spread on on the is then then spread Apricot jam is the layers. layers. Apricotjam between the (sw sides icing (see mocha Fondant Fondant icing iced with with mocha it is is iced the cake cake and and it sides of of the ICING). rcrNG).
CHOCOLAT cHocoLAT -

CENOUE -_ See See CHEESE. CHEESE. GROM

GEX -- See CHE'ESE. See CHEESE. GEX young fruits fruits of vqry young of are very coRNIcHoNGherkins are GHERIKIN. CORNICHON GHERKIN. - Gherkins green, gathered green, They are are gathered varieties of of cucumber. cucumber. They certain certain varieties used as as a a condiment. condiment. preservod in in vinegar, vinegar, and and used preserved (A vmrucnn ( (cooked). CORNICHONS eu VINAIGRE coRNIcHoNs AU vinegar (cooked). Gberkins.in Gherkinsin vinegar gherkins and in salt salt and soak soak them them in the gherkins Trim and and rub rub the CHAUD) cu,lun) -- Trim well with with aa wipe them them weIl sieve, and and wipe in aa sieve, for for 24 24 hours. hours. Drain Drain in cloth, one. cloth, one one by by one. has which has with vinegar vinegar which and coyer cover with Put in a a large large basin basin and Put them them in pan. Leave l0 hours. hours. Put Put the the Leave for for 10 been in aa copper copper pan. been boiled boiled in Allow fresh vinegar. vinegar. Allow some fresh adding sorne vinegar vinegar back back to to boil, boil, adding j litre pints) (5f pints, pints, 6!(scantpint, pint, 2i 6| pints) for 3 3 litres litres (5i2f, cups) cups) for litre (scant ~

423 423

GIBLETS GIBLETS
boiled vinegar. vinegar. Pour Pour the theboiling gherkins. boiling vinegar vinegaron onthe thegherkins. boiled Thenext jarsor next day, gherkins, put day,drain drain the putthem the gherkins, themin pots, The injars orpots, with small small white white onions, onions, cbillis, chillis, sprigs sprigsofthyme, of thyme, fragments fragmentsof with of bay,tarragon sprigs, and tarragon sprigs, and cloves, cloves, and and coyer cover with bay, withthe thevinegar. vinegar. jars hermetically pots or Seal the the pots hermetically and or jars andkeep keep in place. inaacool Seal cool place. (uncooked). CORNICHONS Gherkins in in vinegar vinegar (uncooked). coRNrcHoNS AU Gberkins AUVINAIGRE vrNArcRE (,i. CRU) gherkins with cnu) -- Rub Rub the the gherkins with aacloth, cloth, or or brush brush them, ( them, to to remove the down down which which covers covers them. them. Steep Steep in in aa basin rem ove the basin of of sea-salt. Leave Leave for for 24 24 bours. hours. Drain, Drain, wash wash them them in in vinegar sea-salt. vinegar water, drain drain again, again, and and wipe wipe them them one water, one by by one. one. jar or Arrange them glass jar them in in aaglass or in in aastoneware pot,adding stoneware pot, Arrange adding small white white onions, onions, chillis, chillis, sprigs sprigs ofthyme, of thyme, fragments small fragmentsof of bay bay leaf, tarragon tarragon sprigs sprigs and and cloves. cloves. Co Cover with wine winevinegar. vinegar. leaf, ver with pots hermetically, place. hermetically, and Seal the the pots and keep keep in in aa cool cool place. Seal prepared in Gherkins prepared in this this way way can can be kept for for 4 4 to weeks. Gherkins to5 5weeks. be kept gherkins Fresh salt salt gberkins la russe. russe. CORNICHONS coRNIcHoNs FRAIS FRArsSALS srfs ALA Fresil i la rl gherkins in RUssE -- Wash Wash 24 24 fresh fresh gherkins in lukewarm lukewarm water RUSSE water without without trimming trimming them. them. Leave Leave to to cool cool in in a a large large basin basin of of cold cold water. water. jar in Drain Drain and and wipe wipe them. them. Put Put in in a a jar in layers layers with with blackcurrant blackcurrant leaves and fennel between. leaves and sprays sprays of of fennel between. Put shavings of horseradish and and a Put shavings of horseradish a layer layer of of blackcurrant blackcurrant gherkins, which leaves leaves on on the the last last layer layer of of gherkins, should reach reach 2 which should 2 cm. cm. (* inch) (! inch) below top of of the receptacle. Press below the the top the receptacle. Press the the leaves leaves down. Boil pour over down. Boil salt gherkins. salt water, water, cool, cool, and and pour over the the gherkins. Leave to to soak for 24 24 ho urs. Leave soak for hours. Gherkins are are used Gherkins ussia. as an an hors-d'uvre used as hors-d'uuyre in in R Russia.

GIBLETS. ABATIS GIBLETS. ABATTs -- The The head, head, neck, neck, heart, pinions, feet, heart, pinions, feet, guzard, and gizzard, poultry, as and liver liver of of poultry, as weil well as as cocks' cocks' combs combs and and kidneys. giblets of The giblets The of turkeys turkeys and and large large chickens chickens are are used used for for ragofits, and making ragots, and improving the the taste taste of of stocks stocks and clear and clear soups. soups. Cocks' combs, and Cocks'combs, and kidneys and and livers livers of of fowl fowl are are used used for for certain garnishes such certain classic classic garnishes such as as financire, Toulouse, and and financidre, Toulouse, ambassadrice, and and other dishes of of a a similar similar type. The livers liven of geese and ducks giblets. ducks are not considered considered as as giblets. These are are expensive delicacies delicacies and and require special preparation.
t .'.'

Chicken giblets gible!s (Scarncti) (Scarnali) Chicken

Metbods of preparing preparing poultry poultry giblets giblets - The The giblets giblets of of Methods - used turkeys-and geese are are those those most most frequently frequently used for ragots. turkeys and geese for ragofrts. Before being being used, used, giblets giblets should be be thoroughly thoroughly washed washed and and Before trimmed. Singe Singe the the neck, neck, head, head, and and pinions, pinions, and and remove rem ove all ail trimmed. outer skin skin which which covers covers feathers. Scald Scald the the feet, feet, peel peel off off the the outer feathers. them, and and pare pare offthe off the end end of ofthe the spurs. spurs. Slit Slit the the gizzard on the the thern, gizzard on curved side, side, open open it it and and remove rem ove the the innerbag, inner bag, taking taking care care not not curved to break break it, it, as as it it is is full fuU of of grit. grit. Remove Remove the the gall gall bladder bladder from from to the liver liver and and trim trim off off the the upper upper part part of of the the heart. heart. The The pinions, pin ions, the
424 424

neck, neck,and andhead headof geese,and ofturkeys, turkeys, geese, andducks ducksshould shouldbe be scalded pluckingeasier. scaldedto tomake makeplucking easier.Plunge Plungethem theminto intoboiling boiling water pluckimmediately. waterand andpluck immediately. The giblets ofvarious Thegiblets of variouskinds kindsofpoultry prepared in of poultryare areail allprepared inaa similar similarmanner. manner. Recipes Recipes are givenonly aretherefore thereforegiven onlyfor forturkey turkey giblets, giblets,which arethe the biggest. which are biggest.Depending Dependingon howtender onhow tenderthe the giblets giblets are, are,itit will willbe besufficient sufficient to toincrease increase or ordecrease decreasethe the period of period ofcooking. cooking. Only Onlystocks stocks made made of ofthe thesame same kind kindof ofmeat meat as asthat thatwhich which forms formsthe thebasis basisof ofthe theragot ragofit should should be beused; used;otherwise otherwiseuse use water. water. A Achicken chickenragot ragodt should shouldbe bemoistened moistened with withchicken chickenor or veal vealstock, stock, but butnever never with with lamb lambor ormutton muttonstock. stock. ln Inaddition addition to tothe given below, therecipes recipes given givenfor below,aU allthose those given for lamb, lamb, mutton, mutton,veal veal or chickenragots orchicken ragofits can canalso alsobe beapplied appliedto to giblets. giblets. (See (See RAGOTS.) RAGOUTS.) The The livers livers of of duck, duck, turkey, gooseand turkey,goose andchicken chickenshould shouldnot not be beadded added to giblet ragots to the thevarious variousgiblet ragoitsearlier earlierthan than 10 l0minutes minutes before before removing removing from from the the heat. heat. These These livers liven are are used used separately, separately,sauted, saut6ed, cooked cooked on on skewers, skewers, in pilaf or in pilaf prepared in or risotto, risotto, or or prepared (See inother other ways. ways.(See OFFAL OFFAL or or VARlETY VARIETY MEATS.) MEATS.) Duck Duck and and chicken giblets. ABATIS chicken giblets. ABArrs DE DECANARDS cANARDs ET ET DE DE POULETS PouLETs -- Prepared Prepared in in the the same sameways giblets (see (see ways as turkeygiblets asturkey below). below). Giblet Giblet soup soup -- See See SOUPS SOUPS AND AND BROTHS. BROTHS. Turkey giblets i l'anglaise. Turkey giblets I'anglaise. ABATIS ABArrs DE DE DINDE DrNDE AL'ANGLAISEr'ANcualsn Ingredients. Ingredients. One (or 2 One large large set set (or giblets: head, small sets) sets) giblets: 2 smaU head, neck, liver, feet pinions, gizzard, gizzard,liver, neck, pinions, feet -- 700 g. (Ji (l? lb.) 700 to to 800 800 g. lb.) -2 2 medium medium large large onions, onions, 2 potatoes, aa bouquet 2 large large potatoes, garni (a (a bouquet garni sprig sprig of parsley, thyme of parsley, thyme and and half half aa bay bay leaf), leaf), 1 I tablespoon tablespoon chopped chopped parsley, parsley, 1 I tablespoon tablespoon chopped chopped chervil, pepper. chervil, salt, salt, pepper. Method. ions and Method. Scald Scald the the head, head, neck, neck, pin pinions and feet, feet, and and rem ove ail remove all feathers. feathers. Slit Slit and and clean gizzard, remove clean the thegizzard, remove the the gall gall bladder bladder from from the the liver, liver, cut cut up giblets into up the the giblets into uniform uniform and potatoes. pieces. Slice the on ions pieces. Slice the onions and potatoes. Put ions and Put half half the the on potatoes into onions and the the potatoes into aa shallow pan, shallow pan, and and sprinkle sprinkle with with half half the the chopped parsley. Put chopped parsley. pieces of Put the the pieces of giblets, giblets, except liver, on except the the liver, on this this layer layer of of vegetables. vegetables. Coyer Cover with with the the rest rest of potatoes and of the the onions, onions, potatoes parsley. and chopped chopped parsley. Put garni in Put the the bouquet bouquet garni tn the the middle, middle, season season with with salt salt and and pepper, pepper, and pour in and pour enough water in enough water to to coyer. cover. Boil Boil fast fast on on a a high high !lame. flame. Then Then draw pan to draw the the pan to the the edge edge of of the the bumer, burner, coyer, cover, and and keep keep it it simmering simmering moderately moderately but but continuously for 45 minutes. Ten minutes before serving continuously for 45 minutes. Ten minutes before serving add add the the liver. Serve giblets in Serve the the giblets in a a shallow shallow dish, dish, and and sprinkle sprinkle with with chopped chopped chervil. chervil. Turkey giblets bonne femme. ABATIS DE DINDE BONNE Turkey giblets bonne femme. ABATTs DE DINDE BoNNE FEMME FEMI\IE Ingredienls. One large set (or 2 One large set (or 2 small giblets -small sets) sets) giblets - Ingredients. 700 to 800 25 g. (1 oz., 2 tablespoons) butter, 100 g. ( lf lb.), g. (li 700 to (l 800 g. lb .),25 o2.,2 tablespoons) butter, I 00 g. E. (4 (4 oz.) oz.) lean lean unsalted unsalted bacon, (4 oz.) bacon, 100 g. (4 100 g. small onions, oz.) small onions, 24 small 24 small new new carrots carrots or or 3 large carrots 3 large carrots eut cut to to size size of of new new carrots, g. (\ carrots, 25 25 g. oz., I cup) (6 tablespoons, cup) Rour, flour, 1 I dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, scant scant Q oz., ~ cup) garni, 1 white wine, wine, a a bouquet bouquet garni, g"p) white gailic, li I clove clove of of garlic, lf litres litres t (2i pints) water, water, salt, (2| pints, pints, 2i 2f pints) pepper. salt, pepper. Method. Follow the instructions Method. Follow the instructions given given in in the the recipe recipe for for Turkey giblets Turkey giblets (see below). d la la bourgeoise bourgeorie (see below). Turkey giblets la bourgeoise. ABATIS DE DINDE Turkey giblets I la bourgeoise. ^q,nA,rrs os on{op A LA r.a BOURGEOISE - IngredientsIngredients. One aU sets) BouRceorsE (or 2 One large large set set (or 2 sm small sets) i lb.), lb.), 25 2 tablespoons) giblets - 700 to 800 giblets (1* g. (1 700 to 800 g. (l oz., g. (1 25 g. o2.,2 tablespoons) butter, 100 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz.) oz.) lean lean unsalted g. (4 oz.) small butter, unsalted bacon, bacon, 100 100 g. (a oz.) small on ions, 24 small new carrots or 3 large carrots cut to size of onions, 24 small new carrots or 3 large carrots cut to size of new carrots,25 carrots, 25 g. (\ oz., 1 dl. tablespoons, new g.(l (6 tablespoons, oz., i cup) cup) flour, flour, I dl. (6 white wine, wine, a a bouquet a clove scant ~ cup) garni, a white garlic, scant bouquet garni, clove of of garlic, I cup)pints, li litres litres (2| pints, 2i pints) pints) water, water, salt, pepper. lf 2| salt, pepper. Method. Prepare Prepare the the giblets giblets as indicated in the recipe recipe for Method. as indicated in the for Turkey giblets giblets d I'anglaise. l'anglaise. Blanch Blanch and and dice dice the the bacon. bacon. Peel Turkey Peel and new new carrots, carrots, peel peel and and chop chop the the clove garlic. the onions onions and clove of ofgarlic. the

(2

GIGOT. MANCHE DE GIGOT,

Heat the the butter butter in a shallow pan. Add the bacon, brown brown it Heat and remove remove it. iL Fry Fry the onions on ions until golden. golden. Drain and light!y, and lightly, put put with with the the bacon. bacon. Brown the giblets, giblets, except except the liver, on a high high flame, fia me, turning Brown Add the with a spoon to ensure even even cooking. Add the chopped garlic with and sprinkle with the flour. fiour. Stir to blend, and as as soon as the flour begins to brown, moisten with the white wine and boil moistening with a few few minutes. minutes. Complete Complete the the moistening down for a enough water water or stock to cover. co ver. enough salt bouqel garni,bacon, garni, onions and carrots. Add salt Add the bouqet Coyer the pan and as as it begins to boil as soon soon as and pepper. Cover cooking on moderate fast reduce the heat and leave to finish cooking heat for 45 45 minutes. Ten Ten minutes before serving, serving, add add the the heat the giblets Iiver. Arrange the giblets in add the dish and and add in a a shallow shallow dish liver. garnish. Pour the sauce sauce over. pwon A LA TIS DE ABATIs or DINDE u I la bourguignonne. ABA Turkey giblets (or BOURGUIGNONNE One set (or 2 2 small) One large set Ingredients. BouRGUIcNoNNE (l oz., (lt lb.), 2 tableg. (I~ g. (1 o2.,2 tablelb.), 25 g. to 800 g. turkey giblets - 700 to (4 oz.) spoons) butter, butter, 100 g. (4 100 g. lean bacon, bacon, 100 desalted lean oz.) desalted spoons) 100 g. oz.) small onions, onions, 100 (4 oz.) cultivated (4 oz.) g. (4 cultivated mushrooms, 100 g. (scant pint,2f, Rour, t 2* cups) 1 red wine, a a cups) red I tablespoon flour, I litre (scant (scant pint, 2* 2f cups) cups) bouquet garni, a a c10ve clove of garlic, t litre (seant water or stock, salt, pepper. pepper. Method. Follow the given in in the recipe for for the recipe instructions given Method. the instructions
Turkey giblets giblels d la Ia bourgeoise. 11S DE giblets chasseur. DE DINDE DINDE CHASSEUR cHASSEUR -ABATIS chasseur. ABA Turkey giblets pepper and fry them in a and fry them in a salt and and pepper with salt Season the giblets with shallow proportions. pan, using in equal equal proportions. oil and and butter butter in shallow pan, using oil Drain, and and keep hot. In the same same pan put 100 g. (4 oz.) thinly sliced mushrooms and moisten shallots, moisten 2 chopped chopped shaJiots, and cook on on a a high flame. Add 2 with half a and boil down. down. wine, and a glass white wine, (see Add Tomato sauce sauce (see scant t cup) Tomato Add 1 1 dl. (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant t cup) SAUCE) and 2 ({ pint, veal thickened brown pint, scant cup) cup) thickened brown veal 2 dl. dl. (i stock. Put the sauce. Reheat without without boiling boiling this sauce. the giblets into tbis and and tarragon. tarragon. chervil and and add add 1 1 tablespoon choppod parsley, chervil The is The tomato sauce is tomato sauce The dish not be too too thick. The dish should not sufficient to give it consistency. it the the desired desired consistency. Turkey DE DINDE DINDE ABATIS DE giblets with sausages. ABATIS with chipolata sausages. Turkey giblets (or 2 sets) set (or 2 small small sets) One large set r,c, CHIPOLATA A LA cHpor sre, -Ingredients. - Ingredients. One 2 tableturkey (l oz., o2.,2 table700 to to 800 800 g. (li lb.), 25 g. (l turkey giblets - 700 small onions, onions, 5 or or 6 6 blanched and glazd small butter, 5 spoons) butter, in stock stock with with cooked in peeled and three-quarters cooked and three-quarters 24 chestnuts, chestnuts, peeled a chipolata 8 cooked cooked chipolata 1 tablespoon tablespoon butter, butter, 8 a pinch ofsugar of sugar and and 1 sausages, bacon, diced and and browned browned bacon, oz.) desalted, desalted, diced sausages, 50 50 g. (2 Q oz.) 1 (6 tablespoons, scant f cup) white cup) white I dl. dl. (6 I tablespoon tablespoon flour, 1 wine, garnr, 1* salt, water, salt, l| litres litres (2f pints, 2| pints) water, a bouquet bouquet garni, wine, a pepper. pepper. Method. given in recipe for for in the the recipe instructions given Method. Follow the instructions Follow the Turkey giblets The cooked chestnuts should should cooked chestnuts Turkey giblets d la la bourgeoise. bourgeorse. The not serving. minutes before before serving. until 15 15 minutes not be to the the ragoAt until be added added to TIS DE Turkey DINDE A L'COSr'6cos DE DINDE ABATIS i l'6cossaise. ABA Turkey giblets SAISEwith giblets bonnefemme bonnefemmewith recipe for for Turkey Turkey giblets sAIsB- Follow the the recipe 2,dl. garnish made finely made up up of of finely (+ pint, pint, seant scant cup) cup) Brunoise Brunoise garnish 2,d1. (~ shredded cooked in in butter, and halfcooked butter, and celery and and ornons onions half shredded carrots, carrots, celery hulled previously soaked in warm and cooked cooked soaked in warm water water and hulld barley, barley, previously in minutes. for 35 35 minutes. in salted salted water water for Turkey DINDE A LA La FERrrnDE DINDE giblets la fermire. fermibre. ABATIS ABATIS DE I ia Turkey giblets MIRE giblets d la la bourgeoise bourgeoise recipe for for Turkey Turkey giblets Follow the the recipe uGnB -- Follow but (f, pint, pint, garnish given given for recipe by 4 dl. dl. (~ for that that recipe by 4 the garnish but replace the (see FONDUE). Vegetable fondue scant 2 caps) Vegetable fondue (see FONDUE). turkey giblets gibleb (early French ABATIS DE DE French recipe). ABATIS Fricassee ofturkey DINDE giblets, put put BLANC -- Prepare turkey giblets, EN FRICASSE FRICASS6E AU AU BLANC DrNDE EN into butter, tablespoons) butter, into a with 2 2 tabJespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) a saucepan saucepan with 2 a garhc,Z garni of parsley, a I c10ve ofgarlic, clove of a scallion, scallion, 1 a bouquet bouquet garni of parsley, iL and c1oves, Add aa mushrooms. Add and sorne some mushrooms. leaf, bas basil, cloves, thyme, bay leaf, pinch salt season with with salt pinch of or stock, stock, season with water water or of flour, moisten with and and pepper, and ground pepper, Boil down down and and cook. cook. Boil coarsely ground and coarsely

gradually 3 egg herbs, add add "","''''''ACU.'J Remove the the herbs, sauce. Remove thicken the thicken the sauce. (scant t cream, yolks blended with 3 tablespoons tablespoons (seant m, withi ".rp) crea juice or lemon lemon juice A dash of vinegar or dash of to the the boil. boil. A out bringing to sauce. the sauce. rouxbefore to the the roux may be added to before binding the FRIToT -DINDE EN EN FRlTOT DE DINDE giblets fried in baffer. ABATIS batter. ABA Turkey gibJets 11S DE for leave to to cool. cool. Soak Soak for and leave stock. Drain, and Cook the giblets in stock. a few few drops drops oil, a of 1 I tablespoon tablespoon oil, in a a marinade of 30 minutes in 30 juice, chopped parsley, salt salt and and pepper. chopped parsley, vinegar or or lemon juice, vinegar g. (3 from 75 made from 75 g. Coat the giblets in batter made Q oz., ~ f cup) flour, (6 tablespoons, scant f cup) warm tablespoons, seant I dl. dl. (6 I tablespoon oil, oil, 1 1 pepper, and egg white added and 1 I stifHy stiffy whisked whisked egg water, salt, pepper, water, left to to stand. stand. has been mixture has been !eft after the mixture sprinkle fat. Drain, Drain, sprinkle giblets in in smoking-hot deep fat. Fry the the giblets quarters parsley and and quarters and garnish with fried parsley with fine dry salt, and sauce. tomato sauce. of lemon. lemon. Serve with tomato of (bash method). DE DINDE DINDE EN EN ABATIS giblet rago0t (basic method). ABA Turkey 11S DE Turkey giblet gizzard into pinions and into neck, pinions and gizzard the neck, A BRUN snuN -- Cut the RAGOT RAcoOr are being being used. used. feet, if if they are the feet, also the pieces; also pan in has been been in which which butter butter has giblets into into a a shallow pan Put the giblets with Rour flour to time. time. Sprinkle with time to heated. Cook, from time heated. Cook, stirring from a !iule little crushed crushed garlic. Moisten with and lightly. Add a and brown brown lightly. garni. a bouquet bouquet garni. wine. Add a a little little white white wine. stock and a stock or or water water and pan with cook lid and and cook the pan with a a !id cover ver the boil, season, season, co Bring to to the the boil, caregiblets, trim them, and and carethe giblets, trim them, for minutes. Strain Strain the for 30 to to 35 35 minutes. giblets back in back in the boned boned giblets Put the fully splinters. Put fully remove remove ail all bone splinters. pan. a a clean clean pan. vegetables, lightly fried fried vegetables, and Iightly Garnish blanched and with blanched Garnish with juices left pan, in the the pan, left in the juices according Sieve the the recipe recipe chosen. chosen. Sieve according to to the pour over pur6e, and the over the and pour remove tomato pure, fat, add add tomato remove surplus surplus fat, in the the finish cooking cooking in giblets. giblets. Bring and finish the boil, boil, coyer, cover, and Bring to to the not Take care care not the liver. liver. Take oven; serving, add add the before serving, minutes before l0 minutes oven; 10 to giblets or serving. vegetables when when serving. the giblets or vegetables to break break the gSblet ragots done The ragoils is is usually usually done brown giblet The moistening of of brown They could could also also with light stock. stock. They and light with veal veal or broth and or chicken broth quantity small quantity be by a small supplemented bya water, supplemented with water, moistened with be moistened of of tomato tomato pur6e. Turkey TlS DE ALrx NAVETS NAVETSDE DINDE DINDE AUX ABATIS Turkey giblets with tumips. ABA guz.ards to 'Take to empty empty Open the the gizzards 'Take 2 turkey giblets. Open 2 sets sets of of turkey pluck them singe them; them and andsinge necks, pluck the necks, and the scald the the pinions and them; scald them, then running tap, tap, then wash under under aa running and wash cut into into pieces and them, eut into drain. 225 g. (8 oz.) cut into oz.) bacon bacon eut piece of with225 of butter butterwith drain. Put Put a a piece giblets put in large in the the giblets it is is fried, put when it into a a saucepan; saucepan; when large dice dice into to moisten and moisten a!iule little fiour flour and with a little. Sprinkle Sprinkle with them a a little. to colour colour them with salt, 4cloves, cloves,salt, stuck with with 4 an onion onion stuck Add an or water. water. Add with stock stock or like to look look like the turnips to Cut the pepper, and and a a bouquet garni. Cut into aa sugar into put them with sorne butter and sugar some butter large olives, olives, put saucepan sauce in inwhich which the sauce Moisten with with the lightly. Moisten to brown brown lightly. saucepan to the giblets, boil boil the giblets, to the the turnips turnips to giblets were add the cooked, add the giblets were cooked, gently to down to Simmpr gently consistency. Simmer to the the desired desired consistency. the sauce sauc to down the allow en be Taste to to see see removed.Taste then be removed. should th rise, which which should allow fat fat to to rise, if ions the bouquetand onions andthe the on remove the salt, remove if there is enough enough salt, there is stuck (From La Grande Cuisine Grande Cuisine hot.' (From Serve hot.' stuck with with cloyes. cloves. Serve simplifie, published by 1845.) by Audot, Audot, 1845.) Paris, published Robert, Paris, simplifiie, by by Robert, Giblets mushwith mushprepared in manner with in the the same same manner be prepared Giblets can can be rooms, etc. cucumbers etc. hearts, cucumbers rooms, celeriac, celeriac, artichoke artichoke hearts, Turkey for chicken chicken All recipes recipes for FoIEs DE DE DINDES DINDEs - - Ali Turkey livers. livers. FOlES livers livers of of turkeys. for the the livers suitable for livers are are suitable Turkey anddelicately delicately very large and sometimes very livers are are sometimes Turkey livers flavoured. gooselivers the liversand andthe and goose to duck duck and They are aresimilar similar to flavoured. They same tothem. them. applied to can be beapplied methods of of preparation can same methods the DE PIGEONNEAUX PIcEoNNEALx- - Usually Usuallythe prgeon livers. FOIES FoIESDE Yrung pigeon pigeon tains no if gall, is leftinside insidethe the bird bird if nogall, isleft pigeon liver, which contains which con it pot-roasted or roasted. orroasted. stewed, pot-roasted it is is to to be be braised, braised, stewed, AH table for pigeonIivers. livers. forpigeon aresui suitable liversare forchicken chickenlivers All recipes recipes for
GIGOT, - Small to attached to metalappliance appliance attached DESmall metal MAI\CHE DE GIG'OT, MANCI-IE the cooking to to legof mutton after after cooking, ofmutton ofthe the leg or'handle' the bone bone or 'handle'of keep whilecarving. carving. keep it it steady steady while 425 425

GIGUE
GIGUE GIGUE - See HAUNCH. HAUNCH. GILD. GILD. DoRER DORER - Some Sorne types types of of pastry pastry and and other other preparations preparations are brushed brushed with egg (gilded or glazed) glazed) before browning in the the oven. oven.

Girella

GIMBLETTE GIMBLETTE - See RING-BISCUIT. GIMLET. GIMLET. FoREr FORET - Steel point used to penetrate wood and
casks. casks. Also Aiso used used by by wine waiters to uncork bottles.

GIN GIN * - Spirit, distilled from grain (barley, wheat, oats) and flavoured flavoured with with juniper juniper berries. berries.

pouch in GIZZARD. cfsnn GSIER birds. In Third digestive pouch in birds. - Tbird birds of prey, it has a grain-eating a membraneous lining. In grain-eating birds, birds. it is very muscular and thick. GJETOST _ - See CHEESE. CHEESE. GJETOST quite distinct word. is used used for for several several quite word, It It is distinct operations operations for
terrns in English. which there are various terms which In ln its proper proper sense, glacer means to freeze a liquid until it tums to ice. Thus Thus a creamy or other mixture mixture may be be put in a turns make une glace, freezer with salt, saltpetre and natural natural ice to make that is to say an ice cream or water ice. (See ICE CREAMS that CREAMS AND rCES.) ICES.) also used for browning or glazing in a very glaage is also But glagage braised cut of meat, poultry or game is glaci glac hot oven. A braised (browned or glazed) glazed) by being being subjected subjected to intense heat in the (browned or oven after after basting basting in in its its own own stock. stock. Meat Meat is said said to to be be browned oven glazd (with (with jelly) if if served hot, and glazed if if served cold. Glaage is used for glazing glazing when when it is applied to fish, eggs eggs Glagage or anything anything else covered covered with a white white sauce. sauce. It It can can also mean or confectionery glazing in the sense of sprinkling sweets and confectionery with icing icing sugar sugar and subjecting subjecting them tbem to to intense intense heat. heat. This This last with of glagage glaage is also applied a pplied to to carrots, turnips turnips and and onions. forrn of form icing of of cakes. The term is applied also to the icing GLACE DE DE VIANDE VlANDESee MEAT. MEAT. GLACE - See GLACIRE - The terrn glacire has two meanings; ice box GLACIERE term glaciire refrigerator, or or a sugar-dredger. sugar-dredger. or refrigerator, GLASS AND AND GLASSES. GLASSES. vnnnn, VERRE, vERRERTEVERRERIE - Ever Ever since since glass glass GLASS contain was invented invented it has has been been used to make make receptacles receptac1es to contain was and store store drinks drinks and and foodstuffs. foodstuffs. Glass Glass utensils utensils were used used side and by side with with the the pottery pottery which which had bad served the same same purpose purpose by since ancient ancient times. times. Glass, Glass, which which by by its its transparency transparency allowed allowed since be seen, was was preferred for flagons conconthe liquid liquid inside inside to to be the drinking vessels because because it afforded afforded taining drinks drinks and for drinking taining GLAAGE - There is no no single English equivalent for this GLACAGE

Ginger Ginger in in root root form, form. preserved preserved and and powdered powdered (Fauc (Fauchon. PhOI, Nicolas) hon. P ho t. Nic o las)

GINGER. cINGEMBREGINGEMBRE - Root-stock Root-stock of of a a tropical tropical plant plant which which GINGER. grew in Bengal Bengal and and Malabar. Malabar. It is is sold sold in in two two grew originally originally in forms. Grey Grey ginger ginger has has the the stronger stronger smell smell and and comes cornes in in forms. tubercles 4 4 to to l0 10 cm. cm. (l| (li to to 4 4 inches) inches) long long and and I 1 to to 2 2 cm. cm. @ (i to to tubercles inch) thick, thick, covered covered with with a a greyish-yellow greyish-yellow skin skin and and wellwellft inch) defined rings. rings. White White ginger ginger is is sold sold skinned skinned and and cut cut up up into into defined smaller pieces. pieces. smaller It is is used used as as a a condiment. condiment. Jam Jam is is also also made made with with ginger. ginger. It GINGER BEER BEER - See See BEER. BEER. GINGER GffiAFFE. cIRAFE GIRAFE - Ruminant Ruminant African African mammal. mammal. Its Its flesh flesh is is GIRAIT'E. edible. edible. GffiAUMON - West West Indian Indian pumpkin. pumpkin. Its Its flesh flesh is is sweet sweet and and GIRAUMON delicate, sometimes sometimes with with a a musky musky flavour. flavour. It It is is eaten eaten raw raw in in delicate, or cooked cooked with with other other types types of of gourd gourd salads like like cucumber, cucumber, or salads and pumpkin. pumpkin. (See (See GOURD, GOURD, PUMPKIN.) PUMPKIN.) and GIRDLE (U.S. (V.S. GRIDDLE). GRIDDLE). cALETToIRE GALETTOIRE - Flat iron pan pan GIRDLE - Flat iron without an an edge edge or or with with a a very very shallow shallow edge, edge, used used for for baking baking without pancakes of ofwholemeal wholemeal flour flour called called galetons, galetons, drop drop scones scones or or pancakes girdle cakes cakes (U.S. (U .S. griddle griddle cakes). cakes). girdle and has has no no scales. scales. fully coloured coloured and fully The common common girella girella is is violet violet with with an an orange orange stripe; stripe; the the red red The girella,a a rich rich scarlet;the scarlet; the Turkish Turkishgirella,green girella, green with wi th turquoise turq uoise girella, Mediterranean fish. fish. blue stripes. stripes. These These are are all aIl Mediterranean blue is used used mainly mainly tn in bouillabaisse bouillabaisse (q.v.), (q.v.), but but it it can can be be Girella is Girella served fried. fried. Its Itsftesb is fairlv fairly delicate. delicate. served flesh is GffiELLA. cIRELLE GIRELLE - Small, Small, graceful graceful sea-fish. sea-fish. It It is is beautibeautiGIRELLA.

Old bottles bottles and and old old champagne champagne glasses glasses Old

426 426

GNOCCHI GNOCCHI

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t' ,
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it
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Left : Three Lefl. Three series series of of glasses glasses

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lbove. Above. Glasses Glasses for for Burgundy, Burgund,y, Bordeaux, Bordeaux, Moselle Moselle and Rhine Rh ine wine
:!s

('Au vase |trusque'. Phot. vaselrusque'. Phot. Nicolas) Nicolas)

pleasure pleasure to to the the eye at at the the same same time time as as the the pleasure pleasure to the the palate. palate. There There exist, exist, in in museums museums and and private priva te collections, collections, bottles, bottles, carafes carafes and and drinking drinking vessels vessels of of every every period period and and every every country. country. When When glass-makers glass-makers were were sufficiently sufficiently masters masters of of their their techtechnique nique to to be be able able to to seek seek artistic artistic effects, effects, objects objects made made of of glass glass sometimes became purely purely ornamental. ornamental. sometimes became The The shape shape of of the the glass glass is is so so very very important important for for the the full full appreciation appreciation of of wine, wine, that that each each region region has has produced produced the the shape shape that that best best enhances enhances its its particular particular wine. wine. As As a a general general rule, rule, the the glass glass should should be be as as fine fine as as possible, possible, roomy roomy (it must must never never be be filled filled to to the the brim), brim), with with bombi bomb shoulders shoulders so so that that the the wine ample room room to to develop develop its its aroma. aroma. Champagne, Champagne, on on wine has has ample the the other other hand, hand, should should be be served served in in narrow narrow glasses glasses to to prevent prevent the the bouquet bouquet from from being being dissipated. dissipated. A A flute fiute glass glass or, or, better better still, still, a a tulip tulip glass glass is is the the most most suitable. suitable.

diabetics, have a quantity of of gluten added. added. Gluten Gluten bread bread still retains retains an an average average of 40 per cent of starch while potatoes contain contain only 23 23 per per cent. cent. These These products products are are not recommended, since they they mended, except in very mild cases cases of diabetes, since contain contain such a high proportion proportion of of starch. In cases where where the starch content has has been been appreciably appreciably reduced, reduced, the product product no starch content longer longer bears bears any real real resemblance resemblance to to bread. bread.

GLUX GLUX - See See CHEESE. CHEESE.

GLYCRINE - Colourless, Colourless, sweetish, sweetish, syrupy GLYCERINE. crvcfntNe liquid, a a by-product by-product of ofsoap manufacture. It liquid, It can be extracted soap manufacture. from most most fats. fats. from can be be used in industrial confectionery confectionery without without Glycerine can Glycerine injury to to health. health. It is also regarded as a valuable substitute injury sugar in the the sweetening sweetening of of diabetic diabetic foods. foods. for sugar

GLAZES. cLACES GLACES - Glazes Glazes are are stocks stocks reduced reduced to to a a syrupy syrupy GLAZES. in order order to to consistency used used as as a a finish finish for for certain certain sauces sauces in consistency enhance their their flavour fiavour and and improve improve their their consistency. consistency. enhance A demi-glace demi-glace sauce sauce is is one one obtained obtained from from the the combination combination A of Espagnole Espagnole sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE), SAUCE), light light brown brown stock, and and of Madeira. Madeira. GLUCOMETER. crucorrlirnn. GLUCOMTRE, clycoMirRE GL YCOMTRE - Graduated Graduated GLUCOMETER. hydrometer used used for for the the instantaneous instantaneous assessment assessment of the the hydrometer sugar content content of of liquids. liquids. Special Special glucometers glucometers are are used used for for sugar measuring the the sugar sugar density density of of wines wines and and syrups. syrups. measuring GLUCOSE - A A sugar sugar found found in in its its natural natural state state in in many many GLUCOSE fruits, and and in in particular particular in in grapes. grapes . fruits, Itis is made madeindustrially industrially by by heating heating starch starch with with various various acids. acids. It This produces produces first first dextrins dextrins and and then then an an impure impure form form of of This glucose itself. itself. Two Two forms forms of of glucose glucose are are used used commercially, commercially, glucose many industrial industrial uses, uses, viscous and and semi-solid. semi-solid. Glucose Glucose has has many viscous notably to to increase increase the the sugar sugar content content of of wine wine and and beer. beer. It It is is notably also used used in in the the manufacture manufacture of of syrup syrup and and jam. jam. French French law law also that when when glucose glucose is is used used in in this this way way the the fact fact must must lays down down that lays be indicated indicated on on the the label. label. be When flour ftour is is kneaded kneaded under under running running water, water, a a paste paste is is first first When formed, thentben- the the starch starch having having been been gradually gradually washed washed away away formed, a greyish greyish elastic elastic dough dough is is produced. produced. This This is is the the gluten. gluten. It -- a is because because of of its its gluten gluten content content that that flour fiour can can be be made made into into is bread. Ordinary Ordinary bread bread contains contains about about 7 7 per per cent cent gluten. gluten. bread. Gluten dougll dough, bread bread and and biscuits. biscuits. pArNs, PAINS, pArfs, PTS, Brsclrrrs BISCUITS DE DE Gluten GLUTEN - These These products, products, manufactured manufactured especially especially for for cLUTEN
42',7

GNOCCHI GNOCCHI - This This dish, dish, made made from flour or semolina, semolina, can be be prepared prepared in in two two ways, ways, either from from Chou Choupaste(see paste (see DOUGH) made made with with milk, milk, or or from a a semolina porridge. porridge. Gnocchi Gnocchi can can also also be be made made from from potatoes. potatoes. These Tbese various various dishes, of of Italian ltalian or or Austro-Hungarian Austro-Hungarian origin, can be be served hot hors-d'euvre hors-d'uvre or as a separate separa te course. course. as a hot Gnocchi a Gnocchi au au gratin (Austro-Hungarian (Austro-Hungarian cookery) - Make a Chou Chou paste paste (see (see DOUGH) in the the usual usual way, way, using using milk instead instead of of water. water. When When it is ready add 50 g. (2 (2 oz., * t cup) cup) grated Parmesan for every every 450 g. (l (1 1b.) lb.) paste. pas te. grated Parmesan

GLUTEN - Albuminous Albuminous substance substance in in flour. fiour. GLUTEN

Poaching gnocchi gnocchi with with the the aid ofa of a forcing-bag forcing-bag Poaching (Maison Desmeuzes) Desmeuzes) (Maison

427

GOAT GOAT
Put the paste in a large forcing-bag a round nozzle. forcing-bag with a round nozzle. Force it through The gnocchi are are through by pressing pressing with the hand. The dropped into a pan of of boiling salted water, each one the size of a small walnut. ofa walnut. Simmer for a few minutes. As soon as the gnocchi gnocchi rise to the surface surface of the water, drain them and put on a cloth to dry. Place them in a gratin dish lined with a layer of Mornay Mornay sauce sauce. Sprinkle sauce (se (see SAUCE). Cover Coyer with the the same same sauce. Sprinkle grated pour on melted melted butter. butter. Brown Brown in grated cheese on the the top and pour a slow oven. oyen. poMMEs DE Potato Potato gnocchi gnocchi (German (German cookery). cNoccHr GNOCCHI DE POMMES (2!a lb.) potatoes. Drain, and dry in the rERRE TERRE - Boil | 1 kg. (2i oven. oyen. Rub them through through a fine sieve. sieve. While still hot, add to this pur6e eggs,2 pure 2 whole whole eggs, 2 yolks, 50 g. g. (2 oz., I i cup) butter, 150 g. g. (5 (5 oz., oz., li cups) cups) flour. fiour. Season Season with salt, pepper and grated nutmeg. Mix. Divide the mixture pieces the size of of a walnut walnut and roll mixture into pieces into balls. gently, pressing on them with the balls. Flatten them gently, back of of a fork so that they they have ridges ridges along the top. Simmer in salted boiling water. water. Drain, and place them in a dish in Iayers, layers, sprinkling grated cheese cheese on each layer. Pour melted butter over and brown brown in the oven. oyen. Gnocchi Gnocchi la romaine romaine - Shake, through a dredger, 250 g. (9 oz.,llcups) oz., Hcups) semolina semolina into I 1 litre litre (lf (l i pints, generous quart) boiling milk. Season with salt, pepper and grated nutmeg. Mix cook for 20 minutes. Mix well and cook Remove from the stove and and add 2 egg yolks. yolks. Spread out evenly evenly on a moistened moisttned slab so that it is about I 1 crn. cm. @ (i inch) thick. Leave shapes. Leave to cool. Cut into shapes. gnocchiinabuttered Putthe Put the gnocchi in a buttered dish dish lined lined with with grated grated Gruydre Gruyre or Parmesan cheese. cheese. Sprinkle with the the same cheese. cheese. Pour Pour melted butter over and bake in a slow oven. oyen.
coBELEr Wide-mouthed drinking vessel which GOBLET. GOBELET - Wide-mouthed used used to be made of silver or silver-plate. goblets are often Antique often exquisitely exquisitely engraved. engraved. Small silver Antique goblets in French, though though the are also also called gobelets in wine-tasters are more usual name is tte-vin tdte-vin (wine-taster). narne for them is DU GOBELET The goblet service. SERVICE sERvIcE DU coBELET the French Tbe - At the

court, 'serving the was one the most most important one of the the goblet' was ceremonies of of the royal household. The master master of the goblet, ceremonies who was the head he ad functionary of the royal kitchens, was in sole charg chargd of the household bread, fruit and and linen for the royal table.
known in France France as the goujon de mer. mer .lt - Fish known It GOBY. GOBY. GOBIE coslE to be found in all the oceans, oceans, and sorne some kinds are also found delicate flesh, large rivers. This tiny fish, which has very delicate f1esh, is in large gudgeon. usually eaten fried, like river gudgeon.
is

lf

Garnish for for certain certain meat dishes GODARD dishes served as as a - Garnish second course, enties. (See GARNISHES.) course, and for poultry entres. GARNISHES.)

GODMAUGODIVEAU made.

Delicate forcemeat from which quenelles are

Goat Goat with kid kid

CHVRE - Goats are raised especially especially for dairy proGOAT. csivnn Goats' meat, when the the animal animal is still too young young for duction. Goats'meat, agreeable flavour fiavour although it is tougher tougher breeding, has an agreeable than mutton. mutton. As As a rule, ru le, only only animals animaIs which which are are old old and wornthan as nutritive nutritive as out by milking milking are slaughtered. The meat is as out but its its smell smell is is disagreeable. disagreeable. Goat Goat is is eaten in Spain, Spain, mutton, but Italy and in the South of of France. France. In the the high mountains mountains in Italy goats' goats' meat meat is drid dried in the open air; this is the bindenfleisch bindenfieisch the Canton des Grisons, Grisons. Male goats' flesh fiesh can be eaten eaten of the only when when the the animals animais are are very very young, young, from from six six weeks weeks to to four only rnonths. months.

of this word is uncertain. Scheler suggests The etymology etymology of suggests that it comes cornes from from the old French verb goder which means to make godinettes. Lacam believes godinettes. Lacam believes that godiveau is make that godivear is derived from old word godebillaux. He He says from the the old word godebillaux. says that that formerly godebillaux godebillaux meant meant a a pie pie filled filled with meat balls balls made made of with meat chopped veal and biatilles bati/les (titbits) such as cocks' combs and cocks'combs kidneys, lambs' sweetbreads, sweetbreads, etc., made into a a stew. Godiveru Godiveauforcemeat different ways (see forcemeat can be prepared in different FORCEMEATS FORCEMEA TS OR OR STUFFINGS, STUFFINGS, Quenelle Quenelle forcemeat). In addition to the the recipes recipes given elsewhere, here here is is the the one grven Carme for this forcemeat. given by Carme I-A. LA Godiveau with witb chives chives (Car6me's (Carme's recipe). recipe). GODIVEAU Godiveau comveA.u A CIBOULETTE - 'Trim 450 g. g. (1 (l lb.) lb.) fillet fillet of veal and cIBouLErrE and 675 675 g. (1+ (lt lb.) suet. Chop the veal finely and mix in the fat. After ail all of it has been chopped, add 4 teaspoons teaspoons spiced salt, a pinch ofit eggs. Chop for several minutes. of nutmeg, and 4 eggs. 'Pound the remove from the mortar the godiveau in a mortar, remove and place place it on ice or in a cool place for 2 hours. Divide the mixture into into 2 2 parts parts and and pound pound each each part part separately, mixture separately, moistening little little by little with pieces ofwashed moistening of washed ice, each the an egg. egg. This will make the godiveau godiveau very firm firm and size of an smooth. smooth. 'Put 'Put it in a large large bowl bowl and pound the rest in the same same way, putting it in the bowl when it is ready, with 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) Veloutd Velout sauce (see (see SAUCE) and 1 tableand I fine. This mixture is is used used like spoon chives chopped very fine. forcemeat.' forcemeat.' Carme goes on to explain explain the rdle rle played played by the ice in this Car6me preparation: 'Ice helps helps in in binding binding and and giving body to to the godiveau, godiveau, 'Ice which is what gives it its desirable smooth softness.' softness.' which

GODWIT. nmcsBARGE - Marsh Marsh bird, bird, also found along river banks GODWIT. along river and near the sea shore, commonly called oyster-catcher or cricket-teal. cricket-teal. The two two varieties, the the black tailed tailed godwit and the bar tailed The godwit are found in Europe. In America America there are the large large marbled godwit godwit and the small Hudsonian Hudsonian godwit. marbled recipes given for woodcock woodcock (q.v.) (q.v.) can be applied to All recipes godwit. godwit. GOLAND - Colloquial French French name na me for for large seagulls. GOELAI\D fiesh of of this bird, which which is oily, leathery leathery and unpleasant The flesh fiavour, used used to to be be eaten as as Lenten Lenten fare. Its eggs eggs are are edible. in flavour, is prepared prepared in in the the same same way way as as bustard, bustard, cooked cooked like It is duckling. domestic goose or duckling. GOMON - Type of of seaweed. seaweed. GOEMON 428

GOAT'S BEARD. BEARD. BARBE-DE-Bouc BARBE-DE-BOUC - Wild salsify, of of which which GOAT'S several varieties varieties are known. known. The tender shoots of of some sorne are are several eaten like like asparagus, asparagus, the roots roots of others are prepared like scorzonera (see (see SALSIFY). SALSIFY). scorzonera There is is a variety of goat's goat's beard cultivated in Belgium Belgium There witloof, which which in France France is called caUed endive. endive. caUed witloof, called

GOOSE GOOSE
GOGUFS GO GUES(Angevin (Angevincookery) cookery)-- Chop Chopfinely tinelyequal equal quantities quantities
goose. any any of ofthe the culinary culinarymethods methodsapplied applied to to the the common cornmon goose. preserved The Theconfit confitand andvarious variousother otherspecialities specialitiesmade madeof ofpreserved goose goose of of the the Toulouse Toulouse species species are are excellent, excellent, but but the the most most liver, especially the is, of course, part this bird of delicate delicate part of this bird is, of course, the liver, especially when anintensive intensivecramming, cramming, coupled cou pIed with with total total immobilisaimmobilisawhen an tion, tion, have have enlarged enlarged this this organ organ to to the the state state of of complete complete fatty fatty degeneration. degeneration. For For many many centuries centuries the the goose goose was was considered considered the the best best of of geese' poultry. poultry. In In Paris, Paris, r6tisseurs rtisseurs principally principally sold sold roast roast geese, years' hence hence the the name name of ofoyers oyers by by which which they they were, were, for for many rnany years, described in their their statutes. statutes. described in In In England England the the goose goose has has always always been been greatly greatly appreciated. appreciated. goose, On On Michaelmas Michaelmas Day Day it it was was the the custom custom to to serve serve roast roast goose, prepared prepared in in the the traditional traditional English English way, way, stuffed stuffed with with sage sage and and onions. on ions. This This tradition tradition goes goes back back to to the the sixteenth sixteenth century century and and Alfred Alfred Suzanne Suzanne in in his bis book book la la Cuisine Cuisine Anglaise, Anglaise, described described its its origins origins as as follows: follows: 'The 'The 29th 29th September, September, Michaelmas Michaelmas Day, Day, is is the the anniversary anniversary of of a a great great naval naval victory victory won won by by the the English English against against the the Spaniards. Spaniards. Queen Queen Elizabeth Elizabeth was was at at table table when wh en the the news news of of the the sinking sinking of of the the Spanish Spanish Armada Armada was was brought brought to to her. her. was roast 'The 'The principal principal dish dish that that day day was roast goose, goose, to to which which the the Queen, Queen, it it was was said, said, was was particularly particularly partial, partial, and and in in an an excited excited gourmandism, she she decreed . . gourmandism, outburst outburst of of patriotism patriotism and and . ... decreed that that this this glorious glorious occasion occasion be be commemorated commemorated by by serving serving roast roast goose goose on on that that day day every every Year.' year.' prorequires and geese tough rather is of adult The The flesh fiesh of adult geese is rather tough and requires proyoung of young flesh of the fl.esh longed cooking, usually longed cooking, usually braising, braising, but but the the where the France, where In northern northern France, delicate. In goose is is tender tender and and delicate. goose is it is south, it the south, than in appreciated than goose is is more common goose cornmon more appreciated in the time during during for a a time cold for to cold expose the customary to customary to expose the birds birds to tender. flesh tender. make the the flesh winter, to to make winter, G6rard table, Charles Charles Grard Alsace d table, I'ancienne Alsace In his his book book l'ancienne In wrote: wrote: has turned it man has art of of man the art but the is nothing, nothing, but 'The bird itself is bird itself 'The turned it results, a a produces marvellous marvellous results, which produces an instrument instrument which into an into of fruit of supreme fruit the supreme which the gieenhouse in in which living greenhouse of living kind of kind grown.' gastronomy is is grown.' gastronorny gastronomy', of gastronomy', fruit of gras is the'supreme is indeed indeed the Thefoie The foie gras 'supreme fruit Toulouse, or Toulouse, Strasbourg or it is is in in Strasbourg prepared as as it when especially wh especially en prepared is gosling, the bird is as goose, young or a flesh of the but but the flesh of a young go ose, or gosling, as the bird and a great despised, and not to to be be despised, is not old, is months old, to 7 7 months up to called up caUed a great goose' like duck, young goose, A young it highly. highly. A gastronomes rank rank it many gastronomes many like duck, its underbill. pliability of underbill. of its by the the pliability recognised by can be be recognised can the goose Stuff the A L'ALSACIENNE L'ALSAcIENNE -- Stuff ors l'alsacienne. OIE i l'alsacienne. Goose goose Goose pan-roast it in in and roasting it for Truss meat. sausage with with sausage meat. Truss it for roasting and pan-roast it (q.v.) separately, braised sauerkraut uirth Garnish butter. Garnish with sauerkraut (q.v.) braised separately, butter. with juices added. sauerkraut with the sauerkraut Alternate the added. Alternate cooking juices with cooking with sausages. poached Strasbourg Strasbourg sausages. and poached bacon and pieces of lean bacon of lean pieces pour andpour vealstock stock and andveal wine and white wine pan juices with with white the panjuices bilute the Dilute goose. the goose. over the over

of of onions, onions, spinach, spinach, beet beet and and lettuce. lettuce. Season Season with with salt salt and and leave leavefor for 12 12hours. hours. Next Nextday daycook cookthe thevegetables vegetablesin inlard lard until until

are very very soft. soft. they are they Dice in weight weight to to the the mixed mixed vegetables. vegetables. Dice fat fat bacon bacon equal equal in Cook Cook the thebacon bacona a little, little, and and add add it it to to the the vegetables. vegetables. Season Season with with pepper, pepper, salt salt and and allspice. allspice. Add Add enough enough pig's pig's blood blood to to make a a thin thin mixture. mixture. make Mix thoroughly and and wrap wrap in in thin thin pieces pieces of of beef, beef, 20 20 cm. cm. Mix thoroughly (8 (8 inches) inches) long. long. Secure Secure the the ends. ends. Simmer Sirnmer the the gogues gogues in in salt salt water water for for 2f 2i hours. hours. Drain Drain and and leave leave to to cool. cool. When the the gogues gogues are are quite quite cold, cold, slice slice them them and and toss toss in in When on both both sides. sides. butter, browning browning them them slightly slightly on butter, GOGUETTE - Old name name foraflat for a fiat sausagemade sausage made from from highly highly GOGLJETTE-OId spiced pork pork stuffing. stuffing. spiced

GOLD. GOLD. on OR - Precious Precious non-rusting non-rusting metal metal sometimes sometimes used used in in certainpats and the Middle Middle Ages Ages in in thin thin leaves leaves for for wrapping wrapping ceftainpatis the roast birds. birds. Gold Gold is is still still used used for for this tbis pulpose purpose in in the the Far Far East. East. roast
HENRl - Plant commonly found in wild places, places, frequently frequently HENRI

GOOD KING KING HENRY HENRY lAllgoo4 (Allgood, English English mercury). mercury). noNBONGOOD

is also also called caUed wild wild spinach. spinach. The The It is growing against walls. It leaves are are cooked like like spinach. spinach. They They should should be be cooked cooked in in two two leaves waters and and the the first, tirst, green green and and bitter, should should be be thrown thrown waters away. The The young shoots shoots are are sometimes sometimes eaten like like asparagus. asparagus. away.

geese which are of geese GOOSE. oE OIE - All Ali the species species of are used used as as food food GOOSE. wi/d goose. goose. in Europe are the issue of the wild and In France two varieties of geese are raised, raised, the petite petite and about 3 3 kg. goose (petite) the weighs about the grosse. The smaller goose @etite) weighs attain fattening they attain (6i lb.) on average. After methodical fattening (61 (ll lb.) are excellent excellent roasting birds. and are lb.) and the weight of 5 kg. (Il in any any way suitable for goose treated in can be be treated ose can This This common go poultry, especially especially turkey. 5 kg. weighing 5 (grosse) is heavy bird, bird, weighing goose (grosse) is a a heavy The The big big goose (22 to to 12 kg. kg. (22 l0 to to 12 (ll lb.) reaching 10 and reaching average and (lI lb.) on the average on the 26t lb.) after after fattening. 2eb.) Toulouse, around Toulouse, mainly around found mainly are found type are Geese of this this type Geese of is The bird bird is basin. The in the the Garonne Garonne basin. and in bred, and where are bred, where they they are goose is is a a goose; the the Strasbourg Stasbourg goose Toulouse goose; the Toulouse usually called called the almost its body body almost carries its This bird bird carries same breed breed. . This species of the the same species of the drags on on the 'artichoke', drags called 'artichoke', its behind, behind, caUed perpendicularly; its perpendicularly; process. The The skin skin covering covering fattening process. ground even the fattening ground before the even before wattle, lappet, or or wattle., a lappet, forming a slack, forming and slack, its is loose loose and its breast breast is goose that is that is of goose variety of store. It It is is this this variety fat store. a fat which constitutes a which constitutes d'oie. confit d'oie. for the the confit of France France for used south-west of in the the south-west used in made are made livers which which are provide the the livers geese also also provide The The Toulouse Toulouse geese produced in in gras with trtffies, produced with truffies, pdtis de de foie into famous pts into the the famous foie gras and other other in Strasbourg Strasbourg and Landes, in the Landes, Gers, the in the the Gers, Toulouse, Toulouse, in flesh, its tiesh, however flavoursome flavoursome its This variety, variety, however parts parts of of France. France. This by be treated treated by cannot be and cannot confit d'oie d'oie and is making confit for making is used used only only for

(right)and goose femalego and Male(right) Male female ose

geese Toulousegeese Toulouse

429 429

GOOSE GOOSE
Gmseili l'ang1aise lnanglaise(English style).OIE om AL'ANGLAISE r'.lNcrrusn - - Stuff Stuff @nglishstyle). Goose goose with the goose with the the following: following: the (2|lb.) Bake 1 I kg. kg. (2* unpeeled onions onions in in the theoyen oven and and allow allow to to Bake lb.) unpeeled cool. Peel Peel and and chop, chop, adding adding to to them them an an equal weight weight of of cool. pressed crustless soaked and and pressed crustless bread. bread. Season with 1 lf teaspoons soaked t teaspoons pinch of pepper, a salt, a a pinch grated nutmeg of pepper, little grated a little nutmeg and and 3 3 tabletablesalt, (scant I cup) spoons (scant cup) chopped chopped sage. sage. spoons Truss the goose and the goose and roast roast in in the the oyen or on oven or on aa spit. Arrange Truss on a a dish, dish, spoon spoon over over sorne some of of the pan juices, and the diluted diluted pan on serve with with apple apple sauce, sauce, cooked cooked without without sugar sugar or or only only very very serve slightly sweetened. sweetened. slightly Ballottine and galantine of goose. BALLOTTINE, and galantine of goose. BALLorrrNE, GALANTINE cALANTTNE Ballottine D'oIE -- Prepare Iike like Galantine (see CHICKEN) Galantine of chicken chicken (see CHICKEN) D'OlE goose, fine using boned goose, pork or fiue pork or chicken forcemeat, forcemeat, truffles, truffies, pickled tongue tongue and ham cut and harn cut in in dice dice or or thin thin strips. strips. Ballottine of goose is of goose is usually usually served served cold, cold, the the Jiquor liquor in in Ballottine jelly. It which it it was was cooked cooked being being made made into into jelly. It can can also also be be wruch hot accompanied served hot accompanied by garnish. by a a gamish. served Goose I la la bourguignonne. OIE A LA oru m BOURGUIGNONNE BouRGUTcNoNNE -Goose Prepare as for Chicken d la (see CHICKEN). la bourguignonne bourguignonne (see CHICKEN). Braised goose with gamishes. OIE with various various gamisbes. ore BRAISE sRArsEE -- PrePrepare like (see TURKEY). like Braised turkey turkey (see TURKEY). pare Goose t la la chipolata. chipolata. OIE ore A LA m CHIPOLATA csporATA -- Prepare, panGoose roasted or or braised, braised, as as Turkey Turkey (see TURKEY). d la la chipolata chipolata (see roasted goose. CIVET Civet of of goose. crveT D'OIE D'oE -- Prepare Prepare like (see like Civet Civet of of hare hare (see Civet HARE) using goose cut using goose cut into into uniform uniform pieces. HARE) Confit d'oie I -- Bleed goose, pluck and singe it d'oie 1 Bleed the the goose, it and and Confit quite cold leave until until quite cold before before cutting. cutting. Slit open the back comcomleave pletely, c1ean clean out out the the bird bird and and remove remove the the liver, taking care care pletely, not to (The Iiver to damage it. (The damage it. liver can can be used separately separately for rnaking making not pdtis.) Divide terrines and and pts.) Divide the goose into the goose pieces. Leave into 4 4 pieces. Leave terrines intact the the bones bones connected connected to these pieces in order to prevent intact the ftesh flesh losing losing its is shape shape too too much during cooking. the goose, put Salt the of goose, earthenware put them into a large earthenware Salt the pieces pieces of pot and leave in a a cold cold place for 24 hours. leave in place for pot and When are thoroughly with salt, salt, take When they they are thoroughly impregnated with them out, brush off the salt and wipe with a c1oth. cloth. brush off them out, goose fat. Cook in fat. When the fat has has solidified, the fat Cook in clarified c1arified goose cut small pieces, into a a deep deep pot, with a it into into small pieces, put put into pot, moisten witb cut it few of water, add a a muslin bag containing containing few tablespoons tablespoons of water, and add several cloves cloves, and sorne some peppercorns, several cloyes ofgarlic, a a few cloyes, pelPp(~rConlS and goose in until this is three and heat. heat. Do Do not not put the pieces pieces of goose quarters I hour. quarters melted. melted. Cook on on a a moderate heat for about 1 Test sure the goose Test with with a a big needle needle to make sure goose is done. The juice clear, which indijuice which which comes cornes out should be perfectly perfectly c1ear, cates that the the cooking cooking is complete. cates that Drain Drain the the pieces of goose and remove rem ove the carcase bones. Put Put a a thick thick layer of of the fat in in which the goose was cooked, clarified clarified and strained, into a big big earthenware earthenware jar, jar, glazed on the completely solid, put put in the pieces the inside. inside. When When the the fat is completely of of goose, so so that that they they do not not touch touch the the wall wall of of the the jar. jar. Cover with warm warm goose fat. fat. Leave Leave for for 2 days. days. Strain Strain into into the pot some sorne hot fat to seal any When this this is is well weil congealed, congealed, pour pour a layer of of lard any holes. holes. When over over it, il, and and when when this this is is set, set, put put a a circle circ!e of of greaseproof greaseproof on on top, top, pressing pressing it it down down to to make make it it adhere. adhere. Cover Coyer the the top of of the the jar jar with with a a double double thickness thickness of of paper and and tie tie with with string. Confit Confit d'oie d'oie prepared in in this way way will will keep for for a a very very long long time. can also also be canned, canned, the the cans cans being being placed in in boiling boiling time. It 1t can water. water. Confit and rub rub Confit d'oie d'oie II II - Cut Cut the the goose into quarters and whole whole surface surface with with spiced spiced salt, prepared by mixing I 1 kg. (2t lb.) g. (i oz.) oz.) saltpetre, 4 crushed cloves, 2 pounded lb.) salt, salt, 6 6 e. bay bay leaves, leaves, a a good good pinch pinch of pounded pounded thyme. thyme. Put Put the the pieces pieces of ofgoose goose into in to an an earthenware earthenware pot, pot, glazed glazed on on the in this this the inside. inside. Cover Coyer with with spiced spiced salt. salt. Leave Leave to to steep steep in seasoning 24 hours. hours. sealsomnlg for for 24 Take Take the pieces pieces of of goose goose out, out, shake shake off off surplus surplus salt, salt, and and
piecescarefully. wipethe the pieces carefully.Put Putthem theminto potin intoaabig bigpot inwhich which wipe goosefat fathas hasbeen leftto been!eft tomelt meltslowly. slowly. Cook Cook on onlow low heat heatfor for goose It hours. hours. I~ Testthe the piecesof goosewith ofgoose with aathick thickstraw, straw,which which should should Test penetrate theftesh flesh easily.Drain quarters, put Drain the putthem thequarters, theminto into theearthenwarejar. earthenware jar. Strainthe thehot hot fat fatover overtbem, them, making makingsure sure the meat meat is is covered covered completely. completely. When quite cold Whenquite coldand the andthe the goose fat fat has hasbecome become congealed, pour aalayer congealed, pour layerof oflard, goose lard, about about (t inch) I cm. cm. (~ inch) thick, thick, over over the the surface. surface. The The lard lard is isdenser 1 denser in in consistency and and this this operation will will ensure ensure that that the theconfit consistency confitwill wlll long time. keep for for aa long time. Store in place. in aacool, cool, dry dry place. keep pieces of jar for When taking goose out taking pieces of goose out of of the the jar for use, When use,care care must be be taken taken to seetbat tosee that the the remaining remaining pieces pieces are must are completely completely covered by by the the fat. fat. covered Confit d'oie d'oie is is one one of of the the specialities specialities of of Languedoc Languedoc and Confit and Gascogne, and and an an essential ingredient for garbure (q.v.), essential ingredient (q.v.), for the Gascogne, the garbure the most most characteristic characteristic of of Barn B6arn dishes. dishes. the 'Leg of preserved goose,' says Simm of preserved 'isaadish Simin Palay, 'Leg Palay, 'is dish which which is always always ready ready should aa relative or guest arrive or aa guest is arrive ununexpectedly. An An old old country country saying saying assures assures us: expectedly. us: 'Lou qui qui a a coche coiche d'auque d'auque a a hourrup hourrup de 'Lou de bi, bi, parent ou embita parent ou besi' besi' Que pot embUa which means: means: 'He who goose leg who has has a leg and a goose and a a little 'He little wine wine can can safely safely invite invite relatives or or neighbours.' neighbours.' relatives In Languedoc Languedoc confit confit d'oie d'oie is is used preparation of usod for In for the the preparation of (q.v.). It cassoulet (q.v.). It can can also also be cassoulet be served served on its own, on its own, hot hot or or cold, cold, garnish. Here with or or without without garnish. Here are with are sorne some recipes for serving recipes for serving it it hot: hot: Confit d'oie, d'oig Basque. Basque. CONFIT coNFrr D'OIE Confit o'om LA BASQUAISE A LA BAseuArsn -- Heat Heat quarters of the quarters goose in of goose in their their own the own fat, garnish with fat, drain, drain, and and garnish with cipes cooked cooked in in a a mixture mixture of cpes of oil goose fat oil and and goose fat in in equal proproportions, and and mixed mixed with with chopped parsley parsley and portions, and garlic. Confit d'oie d'oie i la la barnaise b6arnalse -- Heat the Confit pieces of the pieces goose in of goose in their own own fat, fat, and and drain. drain. Garnish in slices their Garnish with with th thin slices of of raw raw potato fried in goose fat in goose potato fried fat and and sprinkled with with 1 I tablespoon tablespoon parsley mixed with a chopped parsley chopped garlic. a pinch of of pounded garlic. green cabbage. Coffit d'oie witb with green Confit cabbage. CONFIT coNFrr D'OIE D'oE AUX AUx CHOUX cHorx vERTs VERTS as described described in in the recipe for for - Prepare green cabbage as Braised cabbage cabbage (see CAB Braised BAGE). When CABBAGE). When nearly done, done, add add a a fat. Arrange the piece piece of goose coated with the fat. piece of goose of goose on a a dish, dish, surround surround with on with the the cabbage, garnish with cabbage, and and garnish boiled potatoes. jJV,.L~}""'" Confit d'oie witb with kidney kidney beans. beans. CONFIT D'oE AUX coNFrr D'OIE Ar.x HARICOTS HARrcors BLANcS Add the goose to pieces of BLANCS the pieces of goose to beans beans cooked cooked d la la - Add (see BEANS), BEANS), simmer bretonne (see simmer for a few minutes minutes and serve in a timbale. Confit d'oie d'oie with Confit with lentils. CONFIT coNFrr D'OIE D'orE AUX Ar;x LENTILLESLENrrLLss - Cook I litre (lf 1 (l i pints, generous quart) lentils with the usual lentils with usual aromatics. maties. Drain, and simmer with a few tablespoons tablespoons thickened brown veal stock. Add the pieces pieces of brown of goose about 25 minutes before serving. Heat gently with the pan covered. la landaise. CONFIT Confit d'oie with peas, peas, or i Confit coNFrr D'OIE D'orE AUX AUx pETITs PETITS pors, POIS, Drr DIT A re LA r,tNDltg LANDAISE - Remove the the surplus fat covering a piece of confit d'oie. covering Melt Melt some sorne goose fat in an earthenware earthenware casserole casserole and fry in it 8 small small onions and (3 tablespoons) diced and 2 tablespoons (3 diced Bayonne ham. Add I 1 litre (lf (Li pints, generous quart) freshly shelled peas. peas. Cook for 5 minutes. Sprinkle in I tablespoon shelled cook for for a a few moments, stirring stirring with with a a wooden spoon, Rour, cook flour, spoon, j cup) water moisten moisten with with I 1 dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant! water and seaseaand I 1 teaspoon sugar. sugar. Add a bouquet son with a little salt and garni garni consisting of parsley, parsley, chervil, tarragon and bay leaf. Cook with with a lid lid on on for for 40 minutes. Put Put in in the the piece piece of of confit Cook and finish finish cooking, cooking, with with the the casserole covered, for d'oie and d'oie 25 minutes. minutes. 25 la la sarladaise sarladaise - Prepare as as Confit d'oie d'oie I la la p6rigourdine i Confit of saut6ed sauted potatoes a garnish of Confit d'oie d la biarnaise with a 430

GOUFFE GOUFF
(sliced (sliced raw raw and and fried fried in in goose goose fat) fat) mixed mixed with with slivers slivers of of
truffies. truffies. Goose daube Capitole. Capitole. oIE OIE EN EN DAUBE DAUBE cAPIToLE CAPITOLEStuffthe Goose en en daube - Stuffthe goose goose with with a a fine fine forcemeat forcemeat mixed mixed with withfoie gras and and diced diced foie gras truffies. Truss and and braise braise in in the the usual usual way. When When the the goose goose is is truffies. Truss nearly done, strain strain the the braising liquor liquor through a a fine fine strainer. strainer. nearly done, Remove Remove trussing trussing string and put put the the goose back back into into the the pan pan with with 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz.) oz.) small mushrooms mushrooms, g. (9 (9 oz.) oz.) stoned stoned ,250 g. blanched olives, and and 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz.) oz.) small small chipolata chipolata sausages sausages blanched tossed tossed in in butter. butter. Pour Pour in in the the braising braising liquor liquor and and finish finish cookcookin a a low low oven. oyen. ing in la la flamande. flamande. on OIE A LA LA FLAMANDrFLA,\1ANDE - Braise Braise the the goose Goose i in in the the usual usual manner. manner. Garnish d la la flamande flamande (see (see GARNISHES). NISHES). Boil down the the braising braising liquor, liquor, strain and and pour pour over the goose. FRITTONS, cRATToNs GRATTONS D'oIE D'OIE Goose frittons or grattons. FRITToNS, Name for for the residue residue which which remains remains in in the the pot pot after after goose goose fat fat melts. melts. Minute fragments fragments of of flesh, flesh, which which are are trimmed trimmed off off the quarters of of goose go ose while while preparingconfit preparing confit d'oie,are d'oie, are sometimes sometimes added to this residue. residue. The frittons are are drained, drained, pressed to extract all the the fat fat them, seasoned seasoned with salt and then left to get cold. cOlntamexi in them, contained Frittons Frittons are eaten as hors-d'euvre. hors-d'uvre. They can be pressed into a block by moulding them in a bowl or other receptacle. receptacle. Goose giblets and pinions. pinions. ABATIS, ABATIS, AILsRoNso'orrAILERONS D'OIE- Prepare Prepare in any of the ways given for turkey giblets giblets (see (see GIBLETS). GIBLETS). geese are Goose livert. livers. FoIEs FOIES D'oIE D'OIE - Livers of of roasting roasting geese can be prepared of all as for prepared as for livers livers of ail other poultry. poultry. They They can Madeira, saut6ed with mushrooms, in on skewers, sauted cooked on in Madeira, garnish as a garnish with truffies, pilaf, risotto, etc. They can be used as entrie in different ways, for eggs eggs prepared in for ways, or with various various entre dishes. They are also used for preparing d gratin forcemeat (see
Roast Rosst goose. goose. on OIE ndn RTI - This This method method of cooking is is suitable sui table only only for for a a very very young young and and tender tender goose. It can be roasted in the the oven oyen or or on on a a spit, spit, and and should be left a little underdone. Roast goose Roast goose d I'anglaise l'anglaise is is stuffed stuffed with with sage sage and and onions. onions.

paration, 1J"'''''Vll, which which is is made made in in Alsace Alsace and and in in Germany, Germany, can can be be found in in shops, shops, cooked cooked ready ready for for use. use. It It is is eaten eaten cold, cold, like Iike smoked smoked ham, ham, and and is is also also a a garnish garnish for for sauerkraut. sauerkraut. Sfuffed Stuffed goose goose nocks. necks. cous cous D'oE D'OlE FARcIs FARCIS - This This makes makes an an excellent excellent hors-d'euvre hors-d'uvre and and is is eaten eaten as as a a sausage. sausage. It It is is prepared prepared in in various various regions of of south-western south-western France France when when confit confit d'oie d'oie
is is being being made. Bone Bone the the necks, necks, leaving a good deal deal ofthe of the skin skin covering covering the the breast breast attached attached to to them. them. Using the the flesh flesh taken taken off off the the bones, bones, make make a a forcemeat, forcemeat, adding adding some sorne minced minced pork, pork, mixed mixed with with a a small quantity of of goose goose liver liver and and diced diced truffies. truffies. Season Season and and stuffthe necks. Cook Cook them them in in goose fat, fat, and and keep keep in in earthenearthenware ware jars jars as as pieces pieces of of confit confit d'oie. Goose Goose tongues. longues. LANGUEs LANGUES o'on D'OIE - In In B6arn, Barn, the the tongues tongues of ofbig big geese, which are are used used for for making making confit, confit, are are cooked cooked on on a a geese, which

Snoked Smoked bieast breast of of goose. goose. PoITRINE POITRINE D'oIE D'OIE FLTM6E FUME - This This prepre-

FORCEMEATS).
geese, can be prepared in liver of offattened Foie gras, that is, Iiver fattened geese, prepared in (See FOIE FOIE GRAS.) GRAS.) and cold. (See innumerable ways, both hot and pArf FROID FRoID D'oIE - Using goose meat preGoose pit6, cold. PT (see PATE, Cotd pdtis). pdtd, cold (see pare like like Chi,cken pt, pare pArE CHAUD goose Prepare, using goose D'oF pit6, hot. cs.luo D'Op: hot. PT Goose pt, - Prepare, Iiot pdtis).pdti, hot (see PA PATE, rneat, like liki Chicken Chicken pt, Ineat, T, Hot pts). goose meat cut in D'oIE Rlco0rs D'OIE Use rago0ts. RAGOTS Goose ragots. Goose Use goose meat eut in uniform pieces. garnished in in various ways. They can ragofits can be garnished These ragots with celeriac, with d la la chipolata, chipolata, with d la la bourgeoise, bourgeoise, be made made be RAGOOT.) chestnuts, olives, etc. (See RAGOT.) olives, etc. turnips, chestnuts, LA BONNE BoNNE o'ore A LA RAGoOT D'OlE la bonne bonne femme. RAGOT i la Goose rago0t Goose pieces. into uniform uniform pieces. medium-sized goose into FEMME -- Cut a a medium-sized FEMME pieces into put the into a a saut saut6 pepper and put the pieces and pepper with salt salt and Season with Season (3 tablespoons) butter clarified butter tablespoons) clarified pan in 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 in which which 2 pan a carcarand a (or goose a big big onion onion and goose fat) Add a heated. Add fat) have been been heated. (or goose and pieces of and the the quarters. Brown the pieces of goose Brown the rot, cut cut into into quarters. rot, vegetables well. ...,J';...,L<~uJ'...,,, weil. in 2 sprinkle in goose are 2 browned, sprinkle are weil well browned, of goose When the the pieces of the fry, stirring stirring the and fry, flour and tablespoons) flour tablespoons (3 tablespoons) garlic, moisten moisten of garlic, clove of Add a a smaU small crushed crushed clove ragofrt on onthefire. Add ragot (} pin pint, scant 2 2 add 4 4 dl. dl. (i and add glass of white wine wine and of white half a with half a glass with t, scant garni, and for 40 40 minutes, minutes, and cook cook for Add a a bouquet garni, cups) stock. stock. Add pan covered. the pan keeping the placed over Trim them them a bowl. bowl. Trirn over a pieces in in a a sieve sieve placed Drain the the pieces (9 oz.) g. (9 small pan. Add oz.) small Add 250 250 g. put into cleaned pan. and put into the the c1eaned and (9 oz.) lean bacon bacon eut cut oz.) lean in butter, 250.g. (9 butter, 250.g. lightly tossed tossed in onions, Iightly onions, (2i lb.) I kg. (2* lb.) and 1 lightly fried, fried, and pieces, scalded and lightly scalded and into small small pieces, into add fat from from the the sauce, add potatoes. Skim quartered potatoes. Skim offsurplus fat nll:lTfPT,>ti (see PURE) purde (see PUREE) (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) Tomato pure 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 goose. Put for a a moment, moment, the stove stove for pour it Put on on the the goose. and pour it over over the and stirring, for for without stirring, hot oven, pan and a hot oven, without in a cook in cover the the pan and cook coyer 45 minutes. minutes. 45

Goose Goose i la la mode mode de de Vis4 Vis, also also called caJled i I'instar l'instar de de Vis6 Vis (Flemish OIE A ul LA MoDE MODE DE DE vls6, VIS, A L'INsrAR L'INSTAR DE DE (FJemish cookery). cookery). on yet started vls6 Cook a young young goose goose that that has has not not started laying, laying, in in VIS - Cook white white stock stock spiced spiced with with 2 2 bulbs bulbs of of garlic. Drain, Drain, cut eut into into pieces, sprinkle sprinkle with with goose goose fat, fat, and and simmer in in a a saut6 saut pan pan with with the lid lid on. on. with (see flour Velouti sauce Prepare Prepare a a Velout sauce (sec SAUCE), SAUCE), mixing flour with goose the roux goose fat fat for for the roux (q.v.) (q.v.) and and using using the the liquor liquor in which which the the the velouti goose goose was was poached. poached. Keep Keep on on simmering simmering the velout for for an an hour: should be hour; it it should be rather rather thick. thick. Make Make a a liaison liaison with with 4 4 egg yolks for Chicken Chicken fricassie as for fricasse (see (see CHICKEN). Strain Strain the yolks as good tableI good a few few tablespoons add to sauce, add to it it a tablespoons cream cream and 1 tablegarlic cooked (see PUREE), Garlic purie spoon Gar/ic pure (sec PURE), using using the the garlic cooked with the with the goose. goose. Heat sauce. Heat Drain the Drain the pieces pieces of goose dry and and put put into into the the sauce. serve heaped on a dish. well and and serve well
green in colour cRosEILLE GOOSEBERRY. GROSEILLE GOOSEBERRY. Large berry, berry, green in col our - Large gooseberry is is variety of of gooseberry one variety In French French one red. In with red. or streaked with or preparain the is used maquereau because d maquereau called groseille because it it is used in the with mackerel. is served served with sauce which, which, traditionally, is tion of a sauce tion m2lcken:1. grown in Normandy in Normandy In France, France, gooseberries are mainly grown In and other other northern districts. and

grill. grill.

made of of a sweet sweet made Name of of a GORENTLOT (ptisserie) GORENFLOT @itisserie) - Name This cake cake mould. This in a a hexagonal mould. baked in dough baked baba (q.v.) dough baba the middle middle of of in the Maison Bourbonneaux in the Maison was first made at the was its creator, creator, by its Gorenflot by It was was called called Gorenflot century. It nineteenth century. the nineteenth play la Dame la Dame Dumas' play hero of of Alexandre Alexandre Dumas' memory of of the the hero in memory in de Monsoreau. Monsoreau. de
(see CHEESE). Italian cheese cheese (see CHEESE). GORGONZOLA -- Italian GORGONZOLA

(q.v.) to wine is is garbure (q.v.) red or or white white wine to which which red A garbure GOUDALE GOUDALE -A Biarn, says says that that a a en Barn, his la /c Cuisine Cuisine en Palay, in in his added. Sim Simin added. in Palay, garbure. When When goudale is to every every garbure. conclusion to traditional conclusion is the the traditional goudale the eaten, the have been been eaten, of this this broth broth have the bread bread and and vegetables of the red pr white white cup of of red pours into into his plate a generous cup diner pours diner plate, of the plate, bottom of at the the bottom it with with the soup left at wine, mixes mixes it wine, it. and drinks drinks il. and remedy to be be a a sovereign sovereign remedy goudale is in Barn B6arn to is considered considered in The goudale The proverb is is to to be be believed: believed: for illness, illness, if if a a local local proverb for pla adoubado, 'Goudale pla adoubado, 'Goudale medecin.' la pocho deu deu medecin.' de la 'Tiro un un escut escut de 'Tiro the doctor's doctor's ('A weil-made well-made goudale keeps a coin from the CA pocket.') pocket.') greatest chefs of the the chefs of one of of the the greatest was one Jules Gouff Gouff6 was GOUFFEGOUFF - Jules nineteenth century. century. nineteenth
431 431

GOUGELHOF GOUGELHOF
Born Born in in Paris Paris in 1807, 1807, he had a talent for cookery cookery from his early youth. His father, an established established pastry-cook pastry-cook in the Saint-Merri taught him him the the basic basic princinles princioles of Saint-Merri quarter, quarter, taught cookery. It was then that Carme, Carme, hearing of the talerr. talell. .f vi the the young young Goutr6 Gouff - who at 17 was already showing promise in in the the decoration decoration and presentation presentation of set pieces pieces - took him into into his kitchens in the Austrian Embassy Embassy in Paris. Car6me Carme turnod him into into a model craftsman, craftsman, a celebrity celebrity of of his day. turned him In ln 1840, 1840, Jules Gouff6 Gouff set up on his own in the Faubourg Faubourg Saint-Honor6; Saint-Honor; his his restaurant restaurant became became one one of of the the best best in Paris. back to work in 1867, 1867, Paris. In In 1855 he retired, but went back encouraged eider and encouraged by by those those famous gourmets, Dumas the elder Baron of epicures epicures offered him the post of Baron Brisse. This pair of head head chef chef at at the the Jockey Jockey Club. It It was at this time tirne that Gouff6 Gouff began on his his Livre Livre de cuisine, a magnificent magnificent book book which which began work work on deserves of cookery, cookery, side side by by side side with deserves a place place in in every every library library of the Carme, Plumerey, Plumerey, Urbain Dubois, Dubois, Emile Emile the works works of Car6me, Bernard, Bernard, Escoffier, Escoffier, etc. etc. A few lines lines from the the master's master's preface preface will suffice suffice to show show A few the of his his work: work : the importance importance of 'Having, from my my earliest earliest youth, youth, embarked upon a career career of of cookery, cookery, I 1 saw much, much, observed observed much, practised much mu ch in every every sense of of the the word. word. I 1 am not one one of of those those who who declare declare that that French French cookery cookery - that part part of of our national national heritage of which which we we have have reason reason to to be be proud proud - is is lost today today and that that it will never never recover. recover. The The good and true true things never never die. No will doubt doubt there there may may be be periods periods of of decline, decline, but but sooner or later, la ter, with with hard hard work, work, intelligence intelligence and and good good will, there must must be be a r@overy. recovery. 'If, thanks thanks to to the the reforms reforms and and the the methods methods which I 1 propose, that in in a a few few years' years' time time everyone, everyone, whatever whatever his his pose, I 1 find find that is eating eating as as well weil as he he possibly possibly can; that, that, on rank in in society, society, is rank the one one hand, hand, household household cookery cookery is is at last last being being carried out the with care, care, economy economy and and comfort; comfort; and and on on the the other other hand hand the the with grande grande caisine cuisine goes goes forward forward under under progressive progressive conditions, conditions, that good good taste taste and and brilliance brilliance which which is is so appropriate appropriate to to with that with of enlightenment enlightenment and and luxury luxury like our own; then then I 1 a century century of a 1 shaH have have truly truly attained attained the the goal goal which which I1have have set set myself myself .... shall ..I shall feel feel myself myself well weil paid paid for for all ail my my pains.' pains.' shall ln 1872, 1872, Jules Jules Gouff6 Gouff published pu blished le le Livre Livre de de pdtisserie, pt isserie, then then ln le Livre Livre des des conserves. conserves. le In 1875 1875 le le Livre Livre des des soupes soupes et et des des potages potages was was published, published. In point of of a whole whole lifetime lifetime devoted devoted to to This was was the the crowning crowning point This remarkable work work in in the the field field of of cookery. cookery. remarkable Gouff died died at at Neuilly Neuilly n in 1877. 1877. Gouff6 gougire is cold, but it may The more usual way to serve a gougre servod hot as hors-d'uvre. also be served hors-d'euvre.

GOUGNETTES GOUGNETTES (Lot cookery) Type of doughnut. doughnut. Pre- Type pare do',.h from 500 g. (18 oz., 41 pare a d0"ol, flour, 5 eggs, 75 g. 4l cups) fiour, (3 o2.,6 g.(* oz., 6 tablespoons) sugar and (1 oz.) dried and 10 l0 g. dried or compressed yeast. Leave to rise for about 1 I hour. Roll out out the the dough fioured table. table. Shape flattened dough on a a floured dough small thin loaves, and dough into into small thin loaves, them into and cut cut them into 5-cm. (2-inch.) (2-inch.) pieces. Fry the pieces in very hot fat. fat. Drain the gougnettes when they are crisp and evenly evenly browned. Sprinkle with sugar.
(sometimes GOULASCH (Hungarian (Hungarian cookery) - Goulasch (sometimes GOLJLASCH called gulyas) is a kind of beef stew made wi th diced onions of beef with and seasoned seasoned with with Hungarian paprika. and paprika. Several Several kinds kinds of goulasch are are made in in Hungary, and and recipes recipes for them are for them given under BEEF. BEEF. Goulascb soup (Hungarian (Hungarian broth). broth). couI,AscH GOULASCH (romcn) (POTAGE) Goulasch Dice coarsely coarsely 350 350 g. (12 (12 oz.) beef beefsirloin, trimmed and with with ail Dice sirloin, trimmed all fat removed. Brown in butter in a a casserole with 2 tablewith 2 (3 tablespoons) finely chopped onion. Season with spoons (3 Add a little cummin and a salt and a large pinch paprika. Add crushed clove of garlic. small crushd weil browned all aU over, sprinkle 1 tableWhen the meat is well sprinkle I and let it cook for I 1 to 2 minutes, but spoon flour fiour over over it. Mix Mix and spoon (2| pints, 2t 11 litres (2i 2i pints) pints) without allowing allowing it to to brown. brown. Add l| without consomm. Bring to the boil and cook slowly for about 3 consomm6. 3 hours. hour before before serving, serving, add to the broth 2 2 diced potatoes. potatoes. An hour An crotons fried in butter. butter. Serve with with bread bread cro0tons Serve

GOURD. couRGE COURGE - Name given given to to many species species of the GOLJRD. Cucurbitaceae famrTy family including inc1uding summer summer and autumn pumpCucarbitaceae marrows, various various summer kins (yellow gourds), vegetable marrows, cushaw, Quaker Quaker or Japanese squashes squashes squashes, Canada or cushaw, (or pumpkin).

GOUGELHOF or or GOUGELHOPF GOUGELHOPF - See See KUGELHOPF. KUGELHOPF. GOUGELHOF

/j

GOUGRE (Burgundian (Burgundian pastry) pastry) - This This pastry, pastry, which which is is GOUGDRE said to to have have originated originated at at Sens, Sens, is is made made not not only only in in Burgundy Burgundy said but also also at at Troyes, Troyes, in in Champagne, Champagne, and and in in other other districts districts of of but France. France. The dough. dough. Place Place in in a a thick, thick, flat-bottomed fiat-bottomed saucepan saucepan The 21 dl. dl. (scant (scant! pint, generous generous cup) cup) water, water, 100 100 g. g. (a (4 oz., oz., I ! cup) cup) 2+ f pint, As soon soon as as the the water water is is boiling, boiling, butter, and and I1 teaspoon teaspoon salt. salt. As butter, g. move the the saucepan saucepan away away from from the the flame fiame and and add add 200 200 g. move (7 (7 oz.,lfr oz., li cups) cups) sieved sieved flour. fiour. Mix, Mix, then then dry dry the the dough dough over OVE'r a a Chou paste paste high flame, flame, stirring stirring it it with with a a wooden wooden spoon, spoon, like like Chou high (see (see DOUGII) DOUGH) until until it it comes cornes away away easily easily from from the the sides sides of of the saucepan. saucepan. the pan from from the the stove stove and and beat beat into into the the mixture mixture Remove the the pan Remove 5 whole whole eggs, eggs, one one by by one, one, 100 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz.,l oz., 1 cup) cup) finely finely diced diced 5 of white white pepper. pepper. Gruyre cheese, cheese, and and a a pinch pinch of Gruydre Making the the cake. cake. With With a a tablespoon, tablespoon, scoop scoop out out pieces pieces of of Making dough, each each the the size size of of an an egg. egg. Put Put them them straight straight into into a a dougb, oneagainst against the theother other in in a a circle. circle. Smooth Smooth the the buttered pie pie dish, dish, one buttered ofa a spoon. spoon. circle on on top top and and round round the the inside inside with with the the back back of circle Brush with with beaten beaten egg. egg. Sprinkle Sprinklewith with very very finely finely diced diced cheese. cheese. Brush Bake in in a a slow slow oven. oyen. Bake
432

Different varieties varieties of ofgourd: gourd: Different Pumpkin, squashes, squashes, vegetable vegetable marrow Olarrow Pumpkin,

GRAPE GRAPE
Gourds are one of the the oldest vegetables vegetables known to man Gourds although it it is is doubtful doubtful if if any any of of those those grown grown today could be although identified with with the the original original species. species. The The word word gourd is identified North America America for for the the decorative decorative inedible reserved in in North reservd Winter and summer squash squash as well weil as pumpkin are variety. Winter variety. grown on on a a very large large scale. scale. Winter Win ter squash can often be used grown of pumpkin. place of in place GOURILOS - Gourilos Gourilos are are the stumps stumps of of endive. When When fully GOURILOS grown and tender, they make a a delicately flavoured vegetable. They can be prepared prepared d la la grecque as an hors-d'uvre; hors-d'euvre; or as They butter or cream, in gravy, fried, gilled etc. vegetable in butter a vegetable and wash the stumps. stumps. Boil Boil them in salt water Method. Trim and Method. until tender. tender. until Drain and leave to cool. Dry them and cook according to Drain the following recipes.

pastry-cooks and other and other multitude of of cooks, cooks, confectioners, pastry-cooks rely turn, rely in their their tum, food, who, who, in diversely named named purveyors of food, kinds. all kinds. needs on on workers of of ail of their their needs for the the satisfaction of to a a wealth wealth of of gives rise, everywhere, to and everywhere, This gives rise, always always and This mind cannot cannot of which even the most lively mind economic activity, ofwhich (Physiologie du du value.' (Physiologie the value.' nor assess the the extent extent nor calculate the go,frt.) got.)

Gourilos in in butter. butter. GOURILOS BEURRE - Blanch Blanch 12 Gourilos AU BEURRE c,ouRlt-os AU Place in a frying pan with 50 g. gourilos. Place g. (2 oz., i I cup) butter and 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) water. Cover for and Cover and cook for minutes. Arrange 40 minutes. butter in which Arrange in a dish and pour on the butter the)' have been cooked, they cooked, to which has been added a tablespoon water or white stock. GouriJos cream. GOURlLOS Cook as as for Gourilos in cream. coIJRILos A LA r,c, CRME cnilrls - Cook (ol pint, J Gourilos in butter. When they are ready, lj dl. dl. (i ready, add add Ii cup) hot fresh Arrange the the cup) minutes. Arrange fresh cream. cream. Simmer for for 8 minutes. gourilos in a dish and pour on the cream. Endive gourilos, gourilos. GOURILOS Blanch the the gourilos, Endive gourilos. FRITs - Blanch couRlI,os FRITS drain, in oil, oil, Steep them them in drain, leave to chill and and dry dry them. them. Steep to cool, cool, chili lemonjuice, lemon juice, salt and pepper for 25 minutes. with a a minutes. Coat Coat them with thin with fat. Drain. Sprinkle Sprinkle with thin frying batter and fry fry in in deep deep fat. batter and salt. Gourilos gravy, bone-marrow sauce or or velout6 sauce Gourilos in in gravy, bone-marrow sauce, sruce, velout other sauces. vEr.ourf Droerrr, AU AU VELOUT sauces. GOURILOS AU JUS, A LA t,l, MOELLE, couRll.os AU rus, Proceed as (q.v.), using using or celery celery (q.v.), as in recipes recipes for cardoons cardoons (q.v.) or any of these sauces. ofthese sauces. Grilled gourilos gourilos. GOURILOS Blanch the the gourilos Grilled gourilos. couRlI.os GRILLf.<; cnnlfs -- Blanch and juice as gourilos. Grill Grill and soak as for for Fried gourilos. soak in in oil oil and and lemon juice them under a from time with oil oil from time flame, moistening moistening them them with a low Bame, to time. time. Gourilos Blanch the the grecque. GOURILOS Gourilos A LA rl GRECQUE cnsceur -- Blanch i la grecque. couRlr,os gourilos (see gourilos and grecque (see prepare as for Artichokes Artichokes d la la grecque and prepare as for HORS-D'UVRE). HORS-D'(EUVRE).

The gourmand (Collection of 1.-1. T. de Lusse) <caunT^""7')l?T1,L*ut

gourmet was never used used was never GOURMET the word word gourmet Formerly, the GOURMET -- Formerly, nowadays. in which is is current current nowadays. inexact sense in the sense which the inexact gourmef, whose was courtier-gourmetcourtier-gourmetThe whose full full title title was The gourmet, gourmand, in a connoisseur connoisseur piqueur, piqueur, was in other other words words a not a a gourmand, was not with the the of good things, sworn official, charged with rather a a sworn official, charged things, but but rather of good were dut y of and spirits. spirits. Gourmets-piqueurs Gourmets-piqueurs were wines and duty of tasting tasting wines once part of Nowadays they they are are organised organised a confraternity. confraternity. Nowadays once part of a into into syndicates. syndicates.

GOURMAND, couRcouRMAND, GOURGOURMANDISM. GOURMAND, GOLTRMAND, GOURMANDISM. MANDISE Many people take the word 'gourmandism' to 'gourmandism' to be be word take the Many MANDIsE synonymous 'gluttony'. synonymous with with'gluttony'. Brillat-Savarin this interpretation. interpretation. of this is sternly critical of sternly critical Brillat-Savarin is 'Authorities gourmandise have have comcominterpret gourmandise 'Authorities who thus interpret who thus pletely gourmandise which combines the the which combines pletely forgotten forgotten social social gourmandise elegance of and the the delicacy delicacy of Rome and luxury of of Rome of Athens, Athens, the the luxury elegance of France. superwith discernment, discernment, supergourmandise orders France. Such Such gourmandise orders with vises judges with with with enthusiasm, enthusiasm, judges savours with vises with with wisdom, wisdom, savours profundity. well be be precious attribute which may may weil attribute which profundity. It It is is a a precious esteemed purest delights. of our our purest delights. it is is the the source sourcr of for it virtue, for esteemed a a virtue, 'Gourmandise . .. habitual passionate, rational and habituai rational and is a a passionate, 'Gourmandise. . . is preference preference for the palate. for ail that flatters flatters thepalate. all that 'Gourmandise gives who gives every man man who of excess; excess; every 'Gourmandise is enemy of is the the enemy himself no longer longer gets drunk, the risk risk of of no runs the drunk, runs himself indigestion indigestion or or gets being gourmand. being a a true true gourmand. 'Delicacy gourmandise, for part of f ot (fr iandise) is of gourmandise, is an an essential essential part 'Delicacy (friandise) delicacy to delicate delicate applied to kind of of discrimination discrimination applied delicacy is is the the same same kind tries and ... titbits pastries . . .' .' preserves, pas sweets. and sweets titbits such such as as preserves, From gourpoint of of gourview, the the advantages advantages of of view, the social social point From the mandism gourmandise,' continues continues 'It is is gourmandise,' innumerable. 'It mandism are are innumerable. Brillat-Savarin, tes the pole to from pole to transport from 'which stimula the transport stimulates Brillat-Savarin, 'which pole indeed pickles, savouries, savouries, indeed pole ofwines, spices, pickles, sugar, spices, of wines, spirits, spirits, sugar, provisions melons. and melons. provisions of down to to eggs eggs and kind, down of every every kind, 'It to the the industrious industrious livelihood to 'It is affords aa livelihood this which which affords is this 433 433

GOURNAY GOURNAY -- See See CHEESE. CHEESE.

pAIN DE GRAHAM Wholemeal bread bread DE GRAHAM cRAHAM -- Wholemeal GRAHAM BREAD. BREAD. PAIN This bread made flours. This bread cereal flours. mixture of of different different cereal made from from aa mixture was Graham. American, Silvester Silvester Graham. in 1840 1840 by by an an American, was invented invented in

GRAIN It weighed former tirnes. times.It weighed in former Small weight weight used used in GRAIN -- Small approximately g. approximately * g.

ta

GRAMOLATES - Sherbet made from from Sherbet made or GRAMOLATAS GRAMOLATASGRAMOLATES or (See ICE aa granit (q.v.) mixture. ICES.) graniti (q.v.) ICE CREAMS AND ICES.) CREAMS AND mixture. (See GRAND monarchy, the the French monarchy, Vnifnn -- Under the old old French Under the GRAI\D MATRE grand de grand matre, souverain matre maitre de also called called souverain who was was also maitre, who l'htel roi was chief royal kitchens. kitchens. ofthe theroyal of ail all the the officers officers of l'h6tel du duroiwas chief of GRAND servedwith with Brownsauce, sauce,served SAUCE -- Brown VENELJR SAUCE GRAhID VENEUR ground (See SAUCES, Brownsauces.) sauces.) groundgame game and SAUCES, Brown venison.(See andvenison. GRANITS No Italian Italian meringue meringueis is sherbet. No Type of of sherbet. GRAI\ITES -- Type added ordinarysherbet sherbet as is is done done with with ordinary mixture, as added to to this this mixture, mixture. (SeeICE ICES.) AND ICES.) mixture. (See ICE CREAMS CREAMS AND GRAPE. vine. RArsrN - - Fruit Fruit of ofthe the vine. GRAPE. RAISIN The ismore moreor orless lesswoody woody grape bunch, which is Thestem the grape bunch,which stemof of the according tains aa!ittle freeacid acidand andtannin. tannin. littlefree species, con contains according to to the thespecies, The essensubstance, an anessenresinoussubstance, The seeds containaatannin, tannin,aaresinous seedscontain tial playlater laterin inthe the into play whichcome comeinto and volatile volatile acids acids which tial oil oil and development development of ofthe thebouquet. bouquet.

GRAPEFRUIT
pulp is The pulp place by is held held in in place by very very thin thin membranous membranous cell cell The (hardly i per per cent walls (hardly! cent of of the the weight weight of of the the fruit) fruit) so so thin thin that that walls juice is just about the weight weight of of the the juice is just about equal equal to to that pulp; that of of the the pulp; the it consists consists mainly mainly of proportions which ofsugar sugar in in proportions which vary vary accordaccordit ing to to_ the type of plant and the year, sometimes rising as high ing the type of plant and the year, sometimes rising as high as 23! 231per cent of of sugar sugar in in weight, weight, corresponding corresponding to pir to 15 15 per as per cent cent of alcohol in in volume. volume. In good year In a year most a good most choice choice types types cent of alcohol give comparable comparable figures. figures. give
plunged into into aa wash washof of boiling boiling water water and and ash, ash, then then dried dried in plunged in the sun sun on on their their stalks. stalks. the Sultanas. Large Large fruit, practically seedless fruit, practically seedless and and with Sultanas. with aa muscat flavour. flavour. muscat Currants. Mainly Mainly from from the the Greek Greek islands. islands. Small, Small, seedless, seedless, Currants. washd with with ash ash and and stripped stripped from from their their stalks. stalks. washed grapes are Dried grapes are used used in in cookery, pastry-making and cookery, pastry-making and Dried confectionery. They They can can still still be be used used to to make make wine wine after confectionery. after being soaked. soaked. being jelly. CONFITURE Grape jeUy. coNrrruRE DE DE RAISINS jelly II RArsrNs -- Like Like Currant Currant jel/y Grape II (see JAMS JAMS AND AND JELLIES) JELLIES) using g. (9 (9 oz., using 250 250 g. generous oz, generous (see cup) sugar sugar to g. (18 (18 oz.) to 500 500 g. grape juice. oz.) grapejuice. cup) pnr,rprEMous$ - Citrus GRAPEFRUIT. PAMPLEMOUSSE fruit the the size size of of a a GRAPEFRUIT. - Citrus fruit very big pale yellow yellow in big orange, orange, pale in colour. colour. The The Chinese Chinese eat eat this very this fruit at at the the beginning beginning of of a a meal meal as as an an apritif, ap6ritif, and and this this fruit custom was was copied copied by by the the Americans Americans when when they they acclimatised acclimatised custom the fruit fruit in in their their country. country. the Cut the the fruit fruit in in half half horizontally horizontally with with a a very very sharp Cut sharp knife knife (a special special knife knife is is used used for for this purpose), make this purpose), make a (a a circular circular incision around around the the central central cone cone and and remove remove il. it. Slide incision Slide the the knife into into each each section section of of the fruit to pulp from to loosen the the pulp from the knife the skin surrounding surrounding il. it. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with fine fine sugar. sugar. It It can skin can be flavoured with liqueur and and served served on on ice. ice. flavoured

q-fu*.

Chasselas grapes (Fauchon. Phot. Nicohs) Chasselas grapes (Fauchon. Phot. Nicolas)

Dessert Dessert grapes. grapes. RArsrNs RAISINS DE DE rABLE TABLE - A A few few varieties vanetIes of of grapes grapes listed listed according according to to their their season: season: earliest earliest first. first.
flesh flesh juicy juicy and and sweet; sweet; Saint-Jacques, Saint-Jacques, with with transparent transparent yellow yellow

Preparing I air e) Preparing grapefruit grapefruit (C (Claire)

Angevine is the the earliest earliest variety variety of of all, aH, fruit fruit pale pale yellow, yellow, Angevine is

slightly slightly musky musky flavour; flavour; Chasselas Chasselas is is the the most most popular popular culticultivated vated variety variety and and it it alone alone accounts accounts for for more more than than half half production French (there French production (there are are numerous numerous types types of of Chasselas Chasselas grape) ; Admirable; ; Alphonse is deep blue blue in in grape); Admirable; Dattier Dattier; Alphonse Lavallie Lavalfe isdeep colour colour and and cultivated cultivated extensively; extensively; Oeillade Oeillade is is a a deep deep blackish blackish violet; de Hambourg Hambourg is is purplish-black purplish-black with with plump plump violet; Muscat Muscat dp oval oval fruit; fruit; Gros Gros Vert, Vert, Servant, Servant, Olivette Olivette blanche, blanche, Muscat Muscat d'Alexandrie aU white white grapes. grapes. d'Alexandrie are are all The The great great dessert dessert grape grape producing producing regions regions of of France France are are Vaucluse, Gard, the the valley valley of of Vaucluse, Bouches-du-Rh6ne, Bouches-du-Rhne, H6rault, Hrault, Gard, the Garonne, and the Moissac region particularly the Garonne, and the Moissac region which which is is particularly famous famous for for its its golden golden Chasselas. Chasselas. For For the the varieties varieties of ofgrapes grapes used used for for making making wine wine (cipages) (cpages) see see VINE. VINE. Keeprng Keeping grapes. grapes. The The system system used used at at Thomery, Thomery, for for the the Chasselas Chasselas grape, grape, consists consists of of cutting cutting off off the the bunch, bunch, with with a a piece of the the main main stem stem attached, attached, before before it it is is quite qui te ripe, ripe, and and piece of soaking soaking the the thick thick stem stem in in a a bottle bottle half halffilled filled with with water. water. Dried RAISINS sEcs SECS- Gathered Gathered when when perfectly perfectly ripe, ripe, Dried grapes. grapes. RArsrNs and dried in the principal and dried in the sun. sun. The The principal commercial commercial types types in in France are: France are: Raisins. Raisins. Mainly Mainly from from the the Midi. Midi. Gathered Gathered very very ripe, ripe,
434 434

fruit, after; Cardinal fruit, ripens ripens very very soon soon after; Cardinal is is a a red red grape grape with with a a

rue rue is infused.

GRAPPA GRAPPA - Piedmontese marc marc brandy in which a sprig of

GRASSHOPPER. GRASSHOPPER. SAUTERELLE SAUTERELLE - Orthopterous, Orthopterous, herbivorous herbivorous insect, insect, often often constituting a plague plague to to agriculture. GrassGrasshoppers hoppers are greatly greatly relished relished by by African African natives natives who who eat eat them them in in the the most most diverse diverse forms, fonus, boiled, boiled, roasted, roasted, grilled, grilled, s4lted, saJted, dried and and reduced reduced to to a a paste. paste. Moses Moses permitted permitted the the Hebrews Hebrews to to eat eat four four different different species, species, described described in in Leviticus. Leviticus. GRASS GRASS SNAKE. SNAKE. couLEUvRE COULEUVRE - Non-poisonous Non-poisonous snake. snake. The The common common grass grass snake snake is is sometimes sometimes eaten eaten in in France France under under the the name name of of anguille anguille des des haies haies (hedge (hedge eel). eel). It It is is prepared prepared in in the the same same way way as as Eel Eel (q.v.). (q.v.).

GRATER. RPE - Utensil Utensil with with a a rough rough surface, surface, pierced pierced with with GRATER. nApr holes, holes, used used to to reduce reduce to to a a coarse coarse powder powder certain certain vegetables, vegetables, fruits fruits or or other other commodities commodities (cheese, (cheese, nutmeg, nutmeg, almonds, almonds, etc.). etc.). GRATERON GRATERON - Common Common French French term tenu for for rennet. rennel.

GRATINtenu means means the the thin thin crust crust formed formed on on the the sursurGRATIN - The The term face face of ofcertain certain dishes dishes when when they they are are browned browned in in the the oven oven or or
under under the the grill. grill. It It is is extended extended to to denote denote certain certain methods metbods of of preparation. preparation. Thus of macaroni macaroni au au gratin, gratin, sole sole au au gratin. gratin. (See (See Thus we we speak speak of

CULINARY CULINARY METHODS.) METHODS.)

GRENADINS
1

Gratin languedocicn languedocien - Half cook in in oil 4 peeled, peeled, sliced Gratin aubergines, seasoned seasoned with salt and pepper, pepper, and and 12 halved aubergines, seasoned tomatoes. tomatoes. Arrange Arrange them in alternate alternate layers in a seasoned l baking dish. Coyer with a mixture of breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and baking dish. Cover with a mixture ChOPPed garlic garlic and and parsley. parsley. Sprinkle with olive oil. Begin chopped cooking on on the the top top of of the the stove, stove, then then bake bake slowly slowly in the oven oyen cooking is well weil browned. browned. until the the top top is until

and elegant elegant with with a a are dry dry and Graves are The white wines wines of Graves to are an excellent excellent accompaniment to delicate bouquet. They are south seafood, seafood, shellfish, shellfish, grilled fish, and subtle sauces. In the south more and lighter, lighter, more of the region, the white wines are sweeter and akin to Sauternes wines.

GRATTONS or or GRATTERONS GRATTERONS - Names given in certain certain GRATTONS regions of of France, France, especially especially in the the south-west, south-west, to the residue residue regions of the the melted melted fat of pork, goose or turkey. It is is sometimes sometimes of lca lied frittons, and and is is salted salted while still hot, and and eaten cold as as calledfrittons, an hors-d'euvre. hors-d'uvre. an must not not be be confused confused with rillettes, which which are Grattons must with rillettes, Grattons by pounding pounding in a a mortar a a mixture mixture of fat and lean prepared by pork which which has has been been slowly pork slowly cooked beforehand. ! Grattons Grattons (speiality (speciality of the Ile A cRArroNs tre Bourbon)_ Bourbon). GRATTONS of the L'LE DE DE rl LA nfumou RUNION (lm (LE nounroN) BOURBON) - Take the skin from the l'lt,u of a a young pig, leaving leaving on back of fat. Cut on it 2 cm. (i inch) of fat. back it into into l0-cm. lO-cm. (a-inch) (4-inch) squares. the fat without touching touching Scorethefatwithout squares. Score it the skin skin with with criss-cross criss-cross lines, lines, making making little squares about the 8 mm. mm. (* (1 inch) inch) across. Put the a pan with with in a of skin in the pieces of across. Put 8 sorne melted melted fat. fat. Leave them to for 3 3 to 4 4 to cook cook very slowly for Leave them l some hours. When When the the skin is tender raise the and transparent, transparent, raise tender and hours. skin is heat and and cook for a pieces of the pieces of until the 40 minutes, minutes, until a further further 40 cook for heat 1 skin like swell up up like They should should swell become crisp. crisp. They bubble up up and and become skin bubble fritters. spoon pan with a perforated spoon from the the pan with a fritters. Remove Remove them them from or put them table salt. salt. with table dish. Sprinkle Sprinkle with thern in in a a dish. or skimmer skimmer and and put This uncovered. be cooked cooked uncovered. This dish dish should always be should always
1

Grayling Grayling

resemblfish resemblGRA YLING. OMBRE - Rare freshwater fish Rare freshwater olrsne COMMUN corr{rvrtnqGRAYLING. more ing and more its bigger bigger and by its it differs differs by which it from which ing trout, trout, from fin of of dorsal fin brilliant an enormous enormous dorsal snout, an scales, smaller smaller snout, brilliant scales, bluish-grey coJour. tinged sometimes tinged are silvery, silvery, sometimes Its sides sides are colour. Its with spots. dark spots. with dark pink or purple and flecked with and flecked or purple with pink The of thyme. thyme. flavour of has a a slight slight Bavour and has very delicate delicate and The flesh flesh is is very It (q.v.). prepared like like trout trout (q.v.). It is is prepared

GRA VEN CHE - Fish nI y in mainly in found mai family found the salmon salmon family of the GRAVENCI{E - Fish of Lake it is is which it with which resembles the the fra It closely Lake Geneva. Geneva. It closely resembles fira with often Thefra has lighter and lighter curved back back and has a a more more curved confusd.Thefdra often confused. coloured coloured scales. scales. The Its the fra. than the gravencfte is much smaller smaller than is usually usually much The gravenche fira.Its is fairly flesh less fiavour. flavour. much Jess but has has much delicate but flesh is fairty firm firm and and delicate Ali used for for may be be used river trout trout may forfdra and and river All recipes recipes suitable suitable forfra gravenche. gravmche. (See (See FRA, TROUT.) FERA, TROUT.) GRA VES - Les gravelly sandy and and gravelly name of of the the sandy is the the name Les Graves Graves is GRAVFSterritory the dpartement The hills hills of the the Gironde. Gironde. The dipartement of that lies lies in nthe territory that and yield excellent wines. plateaux of excellent wines. region yield of this this region and plateaux The strip of of occupy a a strip also occupy of Bordeaux Bordeaux also The Graves or Graves Graves of Graves or land, (9 miles) to the parallel to the running parallel wide, running km. (9 miles) wide, land, about about 15 15 km. Gironde and Langon. Langon. Bordeaux and between Bordeaux Gironde between The Their and lively. lively. Their full-bodied and The red red wines Graves are are full-bodied wines of of Graves very and the the of truffies trufres and the aroma aroma of evokes the very delicate delicate bouquet bouquet evokes 1 perfume of the resin of the nearby pine Like Mdoc, M6doc, forests. Like perfume of the resin of the nearby pine forests. the wines. has sorne some outstanding outstanding wines. the region region has Apart prunier cru uu Haut-Brion, classified classifiod premier Apart from from Chteau Chdteau Haut-Brion, in 1953 in 1953 were classified classified in wines were the Graves Graves wines in 1855, 1855, most most of of the (decree follows: (decree of is as as follows: The classification 1958). The classification is l8 October October 1958). of 18
1

GRECQUE - Dishes grecEte should of Greek Greek should be beof (A LA) d la la grecque Dishes LA)GRECQfJE ( origin practice this is this is preparation, but in practice but in of preparation, method of origin in in their their method seldom dish that aadish happens that it sometimes sometimes happens Though it case. Though seldom the the case. called Greek is of of Greek really is menu really restaurant menu grecque on on a a restaurant la grecque d la called origin, given to of to dishes dishes of is given the name name is not the than not more often often than origin, more French French origin. origin. Among la d la grecque are Artichokes arc Artichokes Ia grecque d la dishes called called Among the the dishes grecque prepared vegetables prepared other vegetables (see ARTICHOKE) and other grecque (see ARTICHOKE) and in in the the same same way. way. GREEN GAGE. yellowishwith aa yellowishPlum with nsNE-cLAuDE -- Plum GREENGAGE. REINE-CLAUDE green n, lightJy fruit of the thefruit side of the side red on on the with red green ski lightly tinted tinted with skin, exposed (See PLUM.) PLUM.) sun. (See to the the sun. exposed to GREENHOUSE, madeof of Buildingmade sERRE - - Building HOTHOUSE. SERRE GREENHOUSE, HOTHOUSE. glass vegetables heat.The The vegetables inartificial artificial heat. plants are raised in glass where are raised where plants or plants glass have thanplants lessflavour flavour than have less under glass cultivated under or fruit fruit cultivated grown grown in air. in the the open openair. GRENACHEItalian g renache is theItalian from the isderived derivedfrom The word grenache GRENACIIE - Theword word TheGrenache Grenache 'large seeds'. seeds'. The granaccio which means'large which means word granaccio grape du theCtes Cdtesdu stock of ofthe thevine vinestock of the grape accounts for much much of accounts for Rhne Mediterranean Franceand andthe theMediterranean south of ofFrance ofthe thesouth Rh6ne wines winesof basin. sweetwines. wines. unfortified sweet straight,unfortified make straight, to make It is is used usedto basin. It The areall allGrenache Grenache Roussillon are ofRoussillon appellations of The best-known best-known appellations wines. Maury, Banyuls,Maury, theseare areBanyuls, ofthese importantof The most most important wines. The Ctes-d'Agly, Rivesaltes. Cdtes-d'Agly, Rivesaltes. GRENADIER ofthe the inFrance Francebecause becauseof namedin thus named Fish thus GRENADIER -- Fish shape GrenaFrenchGrenaofaaFrench reminiscent of isreminiscnt head,which whichis its head, ofits shape of dier's an 40 (16inches) and long,and inches)long, 40cm. cm.(16 than moreth It is isnever nevermore cap.It dier's cap. its poachod,with halfwithhalfserved poached, Itisisserved isdelicate. delicate. It white flesh fleshis its white melted (see BUTTER,Compound BUTTER,Compound butter(see d'h6tel butter Maite d'htel melted Maitre butters); /a sauces;dla (hotor varioussauces; withvarious cold)with orcold) boiled(hot butters\;boiled boulangre, rings. potatoesand andonion onionrings. withsliced sliced potatoes boulangire, with GRENADINSveau) cut (noixde veau)cut de of veal(noix slicesoffiIlet of filletofveal Smallslices GRENN)INS- Small in areinterlarded interlarded whichare orrectangles rectangles which trianglesor oftriangles inthe theshape shapeof with andbraised. braised. lardingbacon baconand bestlarding with best Braised DEVEAU vEAUBRAISS rnusfs- grenadins. GRENADINS cRENADINS DE vealgrenadins. Braiscdveal Using thickescalopes. escalopes. narrowthick cutnarrow of veal,cut under-fillet ofveal, filletor orunder-fillet Usingfillet Flatten thin themwith withthin studthem gently, trim them,and andstud trimthem, Flattenthem themgently, strips pork. orsalt saltpork. baconor oflarding lardingbacon stripsof 435 435

White (W\ White (W) Chteaux Communes or (R\ or Red Red (R) Chdteaux Communes Bouscaut Cadaujac W W and and R R Cadaujac Bouscaut Carbonnieux Lognan W and R R W and L6ognan Carbonnieux Chevalier (Domaine de) Lognan W and R W and R Chevalier (Domaine de) L6ognan Villenave-d'Ornon Couhins W Villenaved'Ornon W Couhins Fieuzal Lognan R R L6ognan Fieuzal Haut-Bailly Lognan R R L6ognan Haut-Bailly Talence R 1 La Mission-Haut-Brion R La Mission-Haut-Brion Talence Talence R La R Talence Tour-Haut-Brion La Tour-Haut-Brion Martillac La W W and and R R Martillac Tour-Martillac La Tour-Martillac Laville-Haut-Brion W W Talence Laville-Haut-Brion Talence Malartic-Lagravire Lognan W and R W and R L.6ognan Malartic-Lagravidre Lognan Olivier W andR R Wand L6ognan Olivier Pape-Clment Pessac R R Pessac Pape-Cl6ment Smith-Haut-Lafite Martillac R R Martillac
1
1 '

Smith-Haut-Lafite

GRESILLER GRSILLER

Above : Grilling pan for (Larousse) Gilling pan for meat meat (Larousse) Above: Below: EJectric (Nrcolas) Electic toaster toaster (Nicolas) Below:

(l"a Carpe. Grills (La Carpe. Phot. Phot. Nicolas) Nicolas) Grills

Brown in in butter, (or bacon butter, fresh fresh crackling crackling (or bacon rind), a mediumBrown rind), a sized onion, onion, a a carrot carrot cut cut into into thin slices, and and the the trimmings trimmings sized thin slices, of the the veal. grenadins fiat Lay the veal. Lay the grenadins pan and flat in the pan and brown of in the brown them lightly. Coyer, gently on Cover, and and cook cook gently on a a low low flame for 15 15 lightly. ftame for minutes. minutes. ({ pint, Moisten with with 2 2 dl. dl. (t scant cup) cup) white white wine. Moisten pint, scant wine. Boil Boil down the almost completely, completely, and a little the juices juices almost and add add a little water. water. Bring Bring to the again, coyer, cover, and a slow slow oven the boil boil again, and bake bake in in a oyen for for about 45 minutes, from time 45 minutes, basting basting from time to to time. time. grenadins and Drain the the grenadins and lay Strain the Drain lay them them on on a a dish. dish. Strain the juices and pour a few juices and pour a few tablespoons tablespoons over over the the grenadins. grenadins. Brown Brown in in the the oven, oyen, basting basting frequently. frequently. Dilute Dilute the the cooking cooking juices juices in in the stock or consomm6. Scrape sides the pan pan with with clear clear veal veal stock or consomm. Scrape the the sides pan of stir the Strain of the the pan and and stir the fragments fragments into into the the gravy. gravy. Strain through sieve. Remove through a a fine fine sieve. Remove fat fat and and boil boil down down if if necessary. necessary. Pour Pour over over the the grenadins. grenadins. Serve Serve braised braised veal veal grenadins grenadins with with all ail the the garnishes garnishes suitable suitable for veal or for veal veal chops, chops, escalopes, escalopes, fillet fiUet of of veal or fricandeaux fricandeaux (q.v.). (q.v.). Grenadins Grenadins are, are, in in fact, fact, smally'icandeaux. smallfricandeaux. Among Among the the garnishes garnishes best best suited suited to to this this dish dish are are bouquebouquetidre, glazed carrots, tire, bourgeoise, bourgeoise, glazed carrots, braised braised celery, celery, braised braised jardinlire, endive, endive, chicory, chicory, spinach,/ermiire, spinach,fermire, jardinire, braised braised lettuce, lettuce, macidoine, macdoine, nivernaise, nivernaise, green green peas, peas, printaniire, printanire, pur6e pure of of fresh fresh or or dried dried vegetables, vegetables, quartered quartered artichokes, artichokes, or or artichoke artichoke hearts. hearts. (See (See GARNISHES.) GARNISHES.) Poultry Poultry grenadins. grenadins. cRENADTNS GRENADINS DE DE voLATLLE VOLAILLE - The The term term grenadin grenadin includes includes slices slices of of white white meat meat of of large large poultry, poultry, especially especially turkey. turkey. This This dish dish is is prepared prepared in in the the same same way way as as Braised Braised veal veal grenadins. grenadins.

GRIDIRON, GRILL. GRIr,I.. GRIL cRrL Kitchen implement implement with a long GRIDIRON, - Kitchen history. It It is a contemporary contemporary of of the spit. The cooking cooking ofmeat of meat history. on a a spit is is far far older than preparation of foodstuffs in than the preparation on earthenware or bronze containers. gridiron was one one of of the first implements used The metal gridiron by our our remote ancestors ancestors for cooking cooking meat. meat. GRIGNON - Piece Piece of of dry dry bread, GRIGNON bread, baked baked very very hard, which which can (grignoter). The name be be nibbled (grignoter). na me grignon is also given to the
end crust of a long or round loaf. It is also called quignon. of a quignon.

GRILLARDIN who, given by by the French to the chef chefwho, GRll-LARDIN - Name given in in large restaurants, is concerned entirely with the grilling grilling
(U.S. of various various types of of food. (U.S. broiling) broiling) of

GRILLETES GRll-LETES - Old name name for for thin thin slices slices of of fresh fresh pork pork fried in butter butter or or fat.

GRrILING GRll-LING (U.S. (U.S. BROILING). BROll-ING). GRTLLADE GRILLADE - Method Method of cooking food by putting putting it it on a gridiron gridiron over over embers, or, in modern modern cookers, under under a grill. grill. In In former former times grilling grilling was was done done on an open wood or charcoal charcoal fire. Nowadays, Nowadays, food food is is grilled grilled by by gas gas or or electricity. electricity.
GRILSE. GRILSE. sAUMoNEAU SAUMONEAU - Name Name for a young young salmon that that has has been been only only once once to to sea. sea. Before Before that that the the salmon salmon is is called called a a parn. parn. All Ali methods methods of of preparation preparation given given for for salmon (q.v.) (q.v.) are are
applicable applicable to to the the young young fish. fish.

GRESILLER GRSILLER - To To shrink shrink or or shrivel shrivel by by heating. heating. The The real real meaning meaning of of the the word word gresiller grsiller is is to to patter. patter. It It is is applied applied also also to to foodstuffs foodstuffs which which in in cooking cooking make make a a pattering patte ring sound sound like like falling falling hail. hail.
sauce sauce made made of ofthe the yolks yolks of of hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs, eggs, oil oil and and vinegai, vinegar, seasoned seasoned with with mustard. mustard. To To this this mixture mixture add add capers, cap ers, chopped chopped

GRIBICI{E GRffiICHE - Cold Cold sauce sauce served served with with cold cold fish. fish. It It is is an an oilv oily

GRIMOD GRIMOD DE DE LA LA REYNIDREREYNIRE - Famous Famous gastronome, gastronome, born born in in Paris Paris in in 1758, 1758, died in in 1838. 1838. His His father, father, who who was was Farmer Farmer General, General, was was himself himself the the son son of of a a pork pork butcher. butcher. Grimod Grimod de de la la Reynidre, Reynire, barrister-at-law, barrister-at-Iaw, did did not not devote devote much much time time to to his his profession. profession. He He preferred preferred sessions sessions at at the the table to sessions sessions in in the the Palace Palace of of Justice. Justice. The The first first edition edition of of table to his his Manuel Manuel des des Amphityons Amphitryons came came out out in in 1808, 1808, and and the the series series Almanacs Almanacs des des Gourmands Gourmands were were published published between between 1803 1803 and and
1812. 1812. These These books books have have since since been been republished republished several several times times and and form form an an integral integral part part of of every every gastronome's gastronome's library. library. 'Grimod 'Grimod de de la la Reynidre,' Reynire,' says says Car6me, Carme, 'was 'was familiar familiar with with the the ancien ancien rigime, rgime, and and lived lived through through the the horrors horrors of of the the Revolution. Revolution. After After the the reign reign of of terror, terror, he he considered considered it it both both necessary as necessary and and wise wise to to write write his his Manuel Manueldes desAmphitryons, Amphitryons, so soas

gherkins, gherkins, parsley, parsley, chervil chervil and and tarragon, tarragon, and and whites whites of of hardhardboiled boiled eggs eggs cut cut into into short short matchsticks. matchsticks. (See (See SAUCE, SAUCE, Cold Cold sauces.) sauces.)
436 436

GUINEA FOWL GUINEAFOWL

to instruct instruct the the new new rich rich in the the conventions conventions and proprieties proprieties which they they must must observe. observe. which 'His Almanac Almanac des des Gourmands Gourmands is full of flashes of gastronomy he had had some sorne good good influence on the norny and and wit. wit. Doubtless, Doubtless, he science of cookery, but he played no part in the rapid proproscience ofcookery, gress gress which which modern modern cookery cookery has has made made since the renaissance renaissance of the the art.' art.' of de la Reynidre Reynire set set up a a 'jury of tasters', tasters', who who Grimod de of academic academic certificate certificate called ldgitimation lgitimation to awarded a kind of various dishes. various
same This bird should not be confused confused with that from the same is region called ganga-cata, Pyrenes, which is ganga-ca ta, or gelinotte des Pyrenies, equally equally good to eat, but smaller in size. proAll Ali these these birds have very good flesh. But they have a pronounced nounced pine pi ne flavour, flavour, the leg leg meat meat in particular, particular, so normally the legs are not served. species, including America there In ln North North America there are are many many species, s har p - t ail e d ous e, sharp-tailed s age gr b lue gr ous e, sage rufe d gr ouse (partridge), ruffedgrouse (partridge), blue grouse, grouse, grouse grouse and prairie prairie chicken. chicken. It is U.S.A. and in U prize'd in England and This game is much rnuch prized .S.A. It is (hazel gelinotte (hazel as gelinotte it is known as where it France, where scarcer scarcer in in France, is known quality than the of much poorer quality grouse or hazel hen), a bird of American grouse. British or American in the be cooked in grouse is roasted but but may be is best best roasted Young grouse same way as hazel grouse (q.v.). (Roman cookery). MARINE rtrn.ls MARIN grouse (Roman cookery). TTRAS Marinated grouse Marinated After having wine. After white wine. good marinade using white marinade using 'Make a a good 'Make marinate te it for 3 or 4 days. skinned and cleaned out the bird, marina a good mirepoix it, adding a fat. Braise Braise it, in bacon fat. 'Bard it in garni a bouquet garni (q.v.) lightly cooked in butter, a of vegetables Iightly (q. v.) of and the marinade. (q.v.), veal stock and all fat fat from remove liquid, rem in its its cooking cooking liquid, 'Allow to cool cool in 'Aliow ove ail can be this to c1arify clarify it, then boil it down to the point where it can the sliced is turned out, put the mould. When it is put in a a border mould. the grouse in the middle. meat of the of B. Farrep.) toast.'(Recipe 'Serve with slices of buttered toast.' (Recipe ofB.

Grimod Grimod de la Reynire Reynidre (1758-1838) ( 1758-1838)

This jury of tasters intervals at the home of the met at at intervals at the tasters met lived in in the gastronome, who There, in the Champs-Elyses. Champs-Elys6es. There, who lived solemn fashion, they tasted tasted the dishes sent to Grimod de la Reynire by by tradesmen who publicity by by making who sought sought publicity Reyniire known known to their customers customers thejudgement, the judgement, always favourable, pronounced by this gastronomic Areopagus. The jury of tasters, give up up its its sittings however, had had to to give tasters, however, because sorne de some of of its judgements aroused protest. Grimod de la en accused even accused of interested la Reynire interested partiality. Reyniire was ev GRIND. term is is used GRII\D. GRUGER 6cnucm. - To reduce to powder. This tenn especially mill. a mortar or mil!. especially of sea-salt ground in a GRISSINI bread varying varying in in sticks of hard-baked bread GRISSIM - Long sticks length from 25 cm. (10 to 30 30 inches). 25 to 75 75 cm. Grissini, at large large bakeries bakeries.. origin, can can be bought at Grissini, of Italian origin, GROG spirit, lemon, lemon, rum or or sorne some other other spirit, containing rum - Drink containing sugar and and hot water. Old given to to the the English English admirai admiral Old Grog the nickname given Grog was was the Vernon the grogram coat he used used to to wear. wear. coat he Vernon because because of ofthe ln in their ration of their ration In 1740 he to put water in of his men to he ordered ordered his rum, was invented. 'grog'was invented. rum, and called 'grog' and thus thus a a new beverage called GROS-BLANQUET greenishpear with Variety of of pear with a a greenishGRO$BLANQUET - Variety yellow skin. gritty in in texture. texture. skin. It It is sweet, but but rather rather gritty is quite sweet, GROSSETTE BYGONE RESTAURANTS OF OF BYGONE GROSSETETE -_ See SEC RESTAURANTS DAYS. DAYS. GROUSE. are several several Game bird bird of of which which there there are GROUSE. TTRAS rfrus -- Game varieties. varieties. The the capercaillie, very superb creature, creature, with with very The largest largest is capercaillie, a a superb isthe delicate northern in countries countries of of northern delicate flesh. flesh. Quite common in Quite common Europe, prepared like pheaIt is is prepared like pheaEurope, it found in in France. France. It it is is rarely rarely found sant grouse. sant or or ordinary ordinary grouse. The grouse, a pheasant and and The black the size size of of the the pheasant black grouse, a bird bird about about the cooked grouse or red grouse way, the the British British red or Scotch Scotch cooked in in the the same same way, grouse, gelinotte (hazel (hazel grouse grouse or grouse, the hazel hen), hen), and and the French Frenchgelinotte or hazel the ganga or pin-tailed grouse grouse which is found found in in the the south south of the ganga which is of or pin-tailed France The last to the the same same family. family. The last France and and Aigeria, Algeria, ail all belong belong to bird, good is the the size size of of a a good bird, whose whose flesh flesh is is extremely extremely delicate, delicate, is partridge. prepared in partridge. It in spit-roasted but but may may be be prepared It is is usually usually spit-roasted any gelinotte. for the any way way suitable suitable for the gelinotte.
437 437

after Fribourg after canton of Fribourg the Swiss Swiss canton in the GRUYRE Valley in GRUYDRE - Valley is named. (See CHEESE.) which which Gruyre Gruydre cheese is comsold commollusc sold Species of of mollusc GRYPHAEA. cnvpsfu -- Species GRYPHAEA. GRYPHE oysters. Portuguese oysters. the name of Portuguese mercially under the guava tree, which a bush bush which tree, a the guava Fruit of of the GUA VA. GOYAVE coyAVE -- Fruit GUAVA. Asia. and Asia. of America and grows in grows in the the tropical regions of pear shaped, shaped, some are are pear ofguava, There guava, sorne several species of There are are several fig. like a a fig. type is is shaped shaped like One type others orange shaped. One others orange It is is usually usually insipid. It guava is pulp of is somewhat somewhat insipid. The the guava The pulp of the jelly or jam, jelly paste. or paste. into jam, made into or made eaten stewed or raw, but can can be stewed eaten raw,

sandybottom on the the sandy found on Smallfish GUDGEON. - Small fish found bottom couJoNGLJDGEON. GOUJON shoals' live in in shoals. Europe. Gudgeon Gudgeon live of rivers of of Europe. and rivers the lakes lakes and of the There There are are various kinds. gudgeon, is found is the the one one found The the common common gudgeon, parent species, The parent species, the kind is is Another kind France. Another rivers of of France. in in the the rivers numbers in in large large numbers One the Danube. Danube. One in the another in found and another the Somme, Somme, and found in in the rivers, (pope), is French rivers, all French gremille (pope), found in in almost almost ail species, is found species, gremille called is sometimes sometimes called Moselle, and and is especially the Moselle, and the Seine and especially the Seine gouionnidre. perche goujonnire. goujonniire or in or perche in French, French, goujonnire It is usually is usually gudgeon is very delicate. delicate. It The is very The flesh flesh of of the the gudgeon eaten smelt. the smelt. like the eaten fried, fried, like with Coat with EN MANCHON MANcHoN -- Coat Gudgeon couJoN EN en manchon. manchon. GOUJON Gudgeon en gudgeon,leaving the egg leaving the of the the gudgeon, the bodies bodies of and breadcrumbs egg and breadcrumbs the as a a These are are used used as fry. These heads Deep fry. uncoated. Deep heads and tails uncoated. and tails sprinkled fish can can be be sprinkled small fish gamish Other small garnish for fish. Other for braised braised fish. with frying. before frying. with breadcrumbs breadcrumbs before
GUERBIGNY CHEESE. SCC CHEESE. GUERBIGNY -_ See GURET See CHEESE. CHEESE. CUENNT -_ See
parts of the France to to the given in of France GUIGNETTE in sorne some parts Name given GUIGNETTE -- Name sand family. piper, a the snipe snipe family. a bird bird of of the sand piper, In (q.v.) are for this this bird. bird. In Ali suitable for are suitable for snipe snipe (q.v.) All recipes recipes for guignette is is applied to aa applied to sorne name guignette parts of the name France the of France some parts molhlsc, coastal waters. waters. French coastal in French found in littorine, found mollrlsc, the the littorine,
pTNTADE, PINTADEAU pINTADEAU -- Genus of bird of GUINEA GUINEA FOWL. Genus of of bird FOWL. PINTADE, the several species. species. It It is is aa which includes includes several the Gallinaceae Gallinaceae family family which native lied it called Romans, who whoca it known to to the the Romans, native of of Africa Africa and and was was known (Carthage) hen. Numidian hen. The The flesh of flesh of Numidian hen hen or or Carthaginian Carthaginian (Carthage) pheasant. young young guinea guinea fowl similar to to that that of of pheasant. fowl is is delicate delicate and and similar

GUINEA FOWL GUINEAFOWL

Guinea Guinea fowl fowl d la la lanzuedocienne(Robert languedocienne (Robert Carrier\ Carrier)

438

GUYENNE GUYENNE
guinea fowl The guinea fowl often often figures figures on on the the menu menu of of banquets banquets and and The pheasant', a wedding receptions receptions as 'Bohemian pheasant', as 'Bohemian a name name which which is is wedding somewhat exaggerated. exaggerated. somewhat poults, which Guinea poults, which are are found found in in the the markets markets of of France France Guinea towards the the end prepared of July, July, are are excellent. excellent. They They can end of can be be prepared towards pheasant or partridges. in any any way way suitable suitable for for pheasant or partridges. in grown guinea guinea fowls prepared (hot (hot or Fully grown fowls are are prepared or cold) cold) in in any any Fully way suitable suitable for for chicken. chicken. way Guinea fowlliver. fowl liver. FOIE rorc DE oE PINTADES ITNTADEs -- Ali All recipes recipes for for chicken chicken Guinea guinea fowl livers are are sui suitable for guinea fowl livers. livers. These These are used are also also used livers table for as an an ingredient in in stuffings. stuffings. as

renders it pharmaceutics and it useful useful in in pharmaceutics prerenders andcookery cookery for for the theprejujube, paration of of mucilages. mucilages. Gurn Gum arabic arabic is is the the basis paration basisof of jujube, marshmallow and paste. and liquorice liquorice paste. marshmallow gum. SIROP (18oz.) Syrup gum. g. (18 slRop DE gum DE GOMME GoMME - - Crush Syrup Crush 500 500 g. oz.)gum (scant pint, arabic pint, 2i for 24 and soak ara bic and soak for 24 hours hours in in1 litre (scant 2f cups) cups) I litre cold water. Add to water. Add cold kg. (41 lb., 9 cups) to aasyrup madewith with22kg.(41b.,9 syrup made cups) (lf pints, sugar and pints, generous generous quart) quart) water and 1 I litre litre (li sugar water boiled boiledto to (220F.). Boil 105'C. (220F.). 105C. when Boil the the mixture, mixture, skim, skim, and and filter filter it it when quite cool. cool. Store quite Store in in bottles. bottles. GLJRNEAU -- French French name GURNEAU name for for aa species gurnet. It species of of gurnet. It is is found in in the Mediterranean, in found the Mediterranean, in British British coastal coastal waters waters and and in in the Baltic. the Baltic. gurnet (q.v.) (q.v.) are All recipes recipes for Ail for gurnet are suitable suitable for for this this fish. fish.

Guinea fowl fowl Guinea

GUINEA GUINEA PIG. COCHON D'rNDE cocsoN P'INDE of South South - Domestic rodent of American origin. Its flesh is American is edible, edible, but it is is chiefly used used for for laboratory experiments.
GUINGLJET GUINGUET expression used to describe mediocre, mediocre, - French expression rather acid acid wine of 10w low alcoholic content.

GURNET. cRoNDIN -- This This European European fish GURMT. GRONDIN fish is is often often sold soldin in quite France France as as red red mullet, erroneously, since since though though quite mullet, but but erroneously, delicate in flavour, flavour, it it cannot cannot be be compared compared with with the the true true red red delicate in mullet. mullet. (grunter) in The gurnet is grandin (grunter) The gurnet is called in French French because called grondin because of of the grunting sound the grunting sound it it is is said said to to make make when when it it cornes comes out out of of the the water. quite different It is water. It is quite different in in shape shape from from the the true true red red mullet. mullet. There gurnet. Among There are are various various types types of of gurnet. Among those those to to be be found gurnet, whose whose scales found in in France France are red gurnet, scales are a beautibeautiare the the red are a fuI gurnet, red ful clear clear red red or rose colour; the cuckoo red in in colour; or rose colour; the colour; cuckoo gurnet, the the trigle trigle lyre, lyre, whose whose back back is is aa beautiful beautiful clear clear red red with with silvery grey gurnet, gurnet, silvery and and rose-coloured rose-coloured belly belly and and sides; sides; the the grey grey grey with on back flanks; the with whitish whitish spots spots on back and and flanks; the shining shining gurnet, gurnet, also gurnet, which long-finned gurnet, called the is the largest also called the long-finned which is the largest of (24 inches) of the the species species it can as much much as as 60 60 cm. cm. (24 in inches) in can be be as - it length yellowish pink pink along pinkish length -- coloured coloured yellowish along the the back, back, pinkish white gurnet, when The shining white on shining gurnet, when its its fins fins are are on the the belly. belly. The outspread, outspread, has has the delicately the appearance appearance of of a a butterfly, butterfly, with with delicately tinted 'wings' ranging purple. from blue tinted 'wings' ranging from blue to to deep deep purple. Gurnet quite good good to Its flesh is quite to eat. eat. Its flesh is is white white and Gurnet is and fiaky. flaky. Ali (see MULLET) All recipes recipes for for red red mullet mullet (see MULLET) are are suitable suitable for for gurnet, gurnet, which grilled or which can can be be fried, fried, grilled cooked in in butter or cooked butter ri la /a meunire (q.v.). They meuniire (q.v.). They can be stewed stewed or can be or cooked cooked in in white white wine, wine, and (q.v.). and they they are are used used in rn bouillabaisse bouillabal'sse (q.v.). GUYENNE province has GUYENNE -- This This vast vast province has been been divided divided into into the the dpartements dipartemenls of of the Gironde, Gironde, Dordogne, Dordogne, Lot, Lot, Aveyron, Aveyron, LotLotet-Garonne et-Garonne and and Tarn-et-Garonne. Tarn-et-Garonne. The The cuisine cuisine of of this this region region is is dominated dominated by by the the truffies truffies of 6f Prigord P6rigord and garlic which and Lot, Lot, and and garlic which is is used used liberally liberally in in most most of of the the local local dishes. dishes. The products of The products of the the region region include include the the celebrated Roquecelebrated Roquefort fort cheese; cheese; the the truffies of of Prigord geese and P6rigord and and Lot; Lot; the the geese and duck duck livers livers which potted or which are are potted pdtis; the made into rnto pts; or made the confit confit d'oie d'oie of Montauban; the of Montauban; the lamb lamb of of Pauillac; Pauillac; and and ail all the the succulent partridge, woodcock succulent partridge, pdtis made and thrush woodcock and thrush pts made almost almost everywhere everywhere here, here, but especially in but especially in the the little little town town of of Lomogne, a a centre centre of of delicious delicious cooking. cooking. Culinary Ctlinary specialities speialities -- Among Among the the special special local local dishes dishes of of Guyenne those deserving deserving of of special special mention mention are are estouffat estouffat of of haricot haricot beans; beans; lampreys lampreys d la la bordelaise; bordelaise; tripe tripe with with saffron; saffron; tripe d la la ruthnoise; ruthinoise; leg leg of of lamb lamb pudding d la la ficelle; white pudding ficelle; white quercinois; quercinois; stuffed chicken; potted truffles; chicken; polted trffies; cpes cdpes d la la bordebordelaise; girondin; Agen prunes; hearth-cake. Iaise; millas girondin; Agen prunes; hearth-cake. The broths pots-au-feu include garbure Gasconne broths and and pots-au-feu include the the garbure Gasconne and, and, no less less delectable, delectable, the the chaudeau chaudeau and and the the tomato tomato tourin. tourin. Most famous famous of the fish of the fish dishes dishes of of Guyenne Guyenne are are matelotes matelotes of of lampreys lampreys and eels and and trout trout and eels d la la meunire. meuniire. Exclusive Exclusive to to this this fashioned region region are are oyster sausages; sausages; bunting bunting en en caisses; caisses; old oldfashioned galimaufry; foie-gras jugged mountain grapes; jugged with grapes; mountain hare; hare; foie-gras with tripe tripe gasconnade; stuffed d la la landaise; landaise; leg leg of of lamb lamb d la la gasconnade; stuffed chicken; alicuit ose hearts; goose or alicuit of of goose or chicken; goose chicken; stuffed stuffed go hearts; roast roast wood wood pigeon; woodcock woodcock salmi, salmi, and, and, the the dish dish extolled extolled by by Marcel Prvost, Pr6vost, the the Christmas Christmas estouffat. estouffat.
439 439

GUINGUETTE GUINGUETTE Name given to a French suburban suburban place of of - Name refreshment with with music music and and dancing. dancing. Sorne Some etymologists believe that name is believe that this name guinguet, a is derived derived from from guinguet, a type type of of grape cultivated cultivated in the Paris suburbs. suburbs. A rather sour wine was made from from these these grapes grapes and made and this this was was mainly mainly drunk drunk in in taverns on the outskirts of of Paris.
MOUETTE GULL. MouErrE is leathery with with an - Sea-bird whose flesh is

unpleasant taste, but whose eggs are edible.

GUL y AS - See GOULASCH. GULYAS GOULASCH.

GOMME - Term GUM. coMME Term applied to a a number of diverse diverse subcement from stances which flow either naturally or by indu inducement stems of of certain plants. When When mixed mixed with the stems with water these these subhave adhesive adhesive properties. The stances have The stems stems of the the plants exude gum gurn when they are punctured by insects or when inexude cisions are made in them. is used of these these gums, gums, gum tragacanth, One of tragacanth,is used in cookery, and and the preparation preparation of of medicinal pas tes and in the manualso in the pastes

facture of syrup gum. It is is said that that some sorne resinous resinous gums were were used used as It as condiments by the Romans. GOMME ARABTeUE ARABIQUE - Product of secretion Gum arabic. coMME secretion of various species of acacia acacia trees. trees. It is found found in in the the form form of It is yellowish or or reddish reddish fragments, soluble soluble in in water, water, contact contact with yellowish whichgives them a aviscous consistency. This gives them which viscous consistency. This property

GYMNE,TRE GYMNTRE
Fillets of sole.
:nnes

wlth

sausages

Lrmprey,
cevlar, Etts In r, Preserved

$llellX:Hsz

fuWoodcock ciriopei, Fillets of harc. Truftfes and morels d la cftmet Rognonode, Thrurh cutlcts

lL,ffi
,eli2ttdetoise,.\t\r\r
Hara d

rqotc

Jjriti&."d#
$'orrur-u t Es!, I;'ru'S,','"ti:$ 1t'J<-'lt'ims i--1 Veat,prth-crufiis .-: :-i TARN J..ET.)GARi! (,:
/y'Yeketables
Fricasse parsly. Fricass6e of riith parsliy. oI eel With Manchons of beef wlth with cpes cdpcs l,llonchons

AVEYRON
r'l "..Thrush
Solm,s of thrush
DAt':

^
r.
__

Calfs liver bardelalse. Lardeloise, Salmis Sofmis of Caff's Ilver duck. c0pcs and lamprey duck, Preserved Pre.served cpes

Trufie omelette I young rabbrt rrth l"tb.l,__.Gastronomic map of Guyenne Gastronomie

l.

Among Among the sweets of the district are are tourtisseaux. tourtisseaux, cruchade gasconne pasti. The feuillantines feuillantines of gasconne and lu pasti. of Gers Gers and and the and lou gArcan gteau forgotten. d la broche must not be forgotten. red the excellent excellent red We end this list with a brief reference to the UX) and above and white wines of of the district (see BORDEA BORDEAUX) ail Armagnac (see GASCONY). all to the eau-de-vie of Armagnac

fresh tastes rather like fresh GYMNTRE GYMNDTRE - Species of fish which tastes cod. gymnitre faux, which is found in the Mediterranean, is found Mediterranean, T\e gymntrefaux, The flat, silver silver in colour with red is about 45 cm. (18 inches) long, fiat, fins. suitable for this fish. Ali All recipes for cod (q.v.) are suitable

440 440
Game: boar's head(Le Doyen. Phol. Phot. Nicolas) Nicolas) boar's he Game: ad (Le Doyen.

t ' '" "

Ftr!

HADDOCK. GLEFIN, 6cr.nrrN, AIGLEFIN, ArcLEFrN, AIGREFIN ATcREFTN -- Sea-fish Sea-fish of of the the HADDOCK. family, but cod family, but smaller smaller than than the the true true cod. cod. This This fish fish is is also also cod (black cod), known in France France as as grefin, dgrefin, morue morue noire noire (black cod), morue morue known Saint-Pierre and and in Newfoundland Newfoundland as as ne 6ne or or non. dnon. Saint-Pierre Fresh haddock haddock is is white white and and delicate. delicate. Ali All recipes for for cod cod Fresh (q.v.) are suitable for for fresh haddock. (q.v.)

L'IRLANDATS L'IRLANDAISE

Smoked haddock haddock Smoked

Smoked haddock haddock is popular in very popular in England England and and the Smoked is very U.S.A. soon as as it it is fish is is split lengthwise, lengthwise, U .S.A. As As soon is caught, the fish lightly salt, hung by the the tail, tail, and and left left to rubbed over with salt, lightly rubbed smoke for for 24 Smoked haddock keeps fresh fresh for smoke 24 hours. ho urs. Smoked haddock keeps
several days. Cod and haddock, when they they are freslq fresh, lend themselves to a a great great number number of culinary treatments and suitable recipes

Baked haddock haddock i l'irlandaise. l'irlandaise. AIGREFIN ATcREFTN AU AU FOUR ForJR Baked A haddock with Stuffa Truss in with suet. suet. Truss in an a haddock an S-shape S-shape - Stuff and make make light light incisions incisions on on the the sides. Put in in aa buttered and sides. Put buttered pan, season pepper, and season with salt and with salt and pepper, and moisten baking pan, moisten with with (* pint, pint, ~ l+ dl. dl. (t paper cup) Madeira. Madeira. Cover Cover with with a a buttered buttered paper H J cup) and bake bake in in the the oven, oven, basting basting frequently. frequently. Untie and Untie the the fish, fish, juices. arrange on hot dish on a a hot dish and pan juices. and sprinkle sprinkle with with the the pan arrange (s*, SAUCE). Serve with with Oyster Oyster sauce sauce or or Shrimp Shrimp sauce sauce (see Serve SAUCE). Curried smoked smoked haddock. haddock. HADDOCK HADD@K A L'INDIENNE r'lNorsNNE -- Bone, Curried Bone, skin and and dice dice the the fish. fish. Cook Cook chopped chopped onion skin onion in in butter butter and and add add the haddock. haddock. Cook Cook for for 5 5 minutes. minutes. Add Add a fairly thin the a fairly thn Curry Curry (see SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). Cover, Cover, and and simmer simmer for for 10 sauce l0 minutes. minutes. (see RICE). Serve with with Rice d l'indienne l'indienne (see RICE). Serve Gritled smoked smoked haddock. haddock. HADDOCK HADDocK GRILL Grilled GRTLL6 -- Brush Brush the the fish with oil oil or or melted melted butter and and cook grill. fish cook slowly slowly under under the the grill. Serve with potatoes, or with melted melted butter butter and and boiled Serve boiled potatoes, or with with Maitre d'htel (see BUTTER, d'h6tel butter (see Matre butters). BUfiER, Compound Compoundbutters). pApRrKA paprika. HADDOCK Smoked haddock haddock with with paprika. HADDocK AU AU PAPRIKA Smoked Proceed as as for for Curried Curried haddock, haddock, substituting substituting Hungarian Proceed for curry curry sauce. sauce. sauce (see SAUCE) for pocnE - Simmer smoked haddock. haddock. HADDOCK HADDocK pocH Poached smoked the - Simmer the fish in in slightly slightlv salted salted boiling water, water, without fish without allowing allowing it it to to 6 to to JO l0 minutes, according according to boil, for 6 to its its size. size. Haddock Haddock can can Serve with melted also be poached in milk. Serve melted butter and and boiled potatoes. potatoes.

will EEL, WHITING, WHITING, under BASS, BASS, BRILL, BRILL, EEL, will be be found found under TUNNY, TUNNY, TURBOT, TURBOT.

Baked Baked haddock haddock

(Scottish cookery) cookery) HAGGIS (Scottish regarded as as the the - Haggis may be regarded national dish dish of of Scotland. Scotland. When national When this this dish dish is is served served at at certain large banquets in Scotland, it it is is accompanied accompanied by an ofpipers. escort of pipers. given by is the recipe given Here is the recipe by Alfred Alfred Suzanne in in rus his book book la Cuisine anglaise. la 'To make a haggis, haggis, take 'To make a take a a sheep's sheep's stomach, stomach, cJean clean thoroughly and and turn inside out. 'Take the heart, liver and lungs of the sheep. Boil ail all these for 30 minutes in salt water. Take out the the offal and and mince it very finely, except for part of the liver which must be allowed very to get quite cold so that it can be grated. 'Spread the mince on a table and season with salt, pepper, pepper, nutmeg, cayenne pepper pepper and chopped onion. Add the grated liver, liver, a handful handful of of oatmeal 4 cups) chopped oatmeal and 500 g. (18 oz., o2.,4 beef beef suet. Now Now fill the stomach mixture, a stomach with the mixture, a little little more than half haLf full, leaving plenty of space at the top ta to prevent it from bursting bursting during during cooking. Add a glassful glassful of good gravy. Prick the haggis here and there with a a large needle and and sew sew up the opening. Place in a large pan with plenty plenty ofwater of water and boil for 3 hours. 'It 'It sometimes happens happens that that the the bladder bladder bursts bursts during

MI 441
Game: Game : wild wild duck(k duck (Le Doyen. Doyen. Phot. Phol . Nicolas)

HAKE HAKE
cooking cooking and and spills out its contents. To avoid this, wrap the haggis haggis in in a napkin, napkin, as as though it it were a a galantine, before putting putting it into into boiling boiling water.' Haggis Haggis is is normally nonnally served served wrapped wrapped in a a well-starched napkin traditional drink drink that goes with with it. napkin and and whisky whisky is the traditional HAKE HAKE - Sea-fish Sea-fish called merlmt merlan (whiting) in Provence, colin (cod) on some sorne (cod) in in Paris Paris and saumon saumon blanc (whrte (white salmon) on French French menus. menus. Its Its flesh fiesh is tender, tender, white, flaky fiaky and easy to digest. is called called merluche merluche (stockfish). (stock.fish). digest. When When dried, dried, it is All Ali recipes recipes for for cod cod (q.v.) (q.v.) are suitable suitable for hake. hake. HALBRAN. ALBRAN - Name Narne given given to to very very youngwild young wild duck. duck. HALBRAN. ALBRANWhen is called called duckling, then then duck. It It is When a a little little older older it it is cooked cooked like like duck duck (q.v.). (q.v.).

HALCYON HALCYON (kingfisher). (kingfisher). ALcyoN ALCYON - The name narne of this this bird comes Greek alkuon alkuon (formed (fonned of als, ais, the sea, sea, and cornes from frorn the the Greek kuon, kuon, one who who nurses nurses its its young). young). Accordin! According to a a Greek
legend of the the sea. sea. legend the the halcyon halcyon built built its its nest nest on on the the waves waves of

This This bird, bird, remarkable remarkable for for its its brilliant brilliant blue blue plumage, plumage, with varying of red red on on the the breast, breast, is is the the Australian Australian version varying shades shades of of of our our kingfisher, kingfisher, or or laughing laughing jackass. jackass. From From Australia the the species China and and Japan. Japan. species has has spread spread to to China The The halcyons halcyons built built their their nests nests with with the the aid aid of of a gelatinous gelatinous substance substance secreted secreted during d uring the the laying laying period period by by their their crops. crops. These In their their dried dried These nests nests are are much rnuch esteemed esteerned by by the the Chinese. Chinese. In state state they they are are imported imported into into Europe Europe and and are are greatly greatly prizd prized at the the best best tables, tables, where where they they are are known known as as birds' birds' nests. nests.

Slicing and serving serving ham haro in a large large restaurant Slicing restaurant

Halibut Halibut

HALmUT. ru6rlNFLTAN - Large Largeflat fiat fish fish found found in in northern northern waters. waters. HALIBUT.
can be be as as much rnuch as as 2 2 m. m. (6| (6! feet) feet) long long and and weighs weighs between between can 150and and 200 200 kg. kg. (330 (330 and and 4l0lb.). 440 lb.). 150 The firm firm white white flesh flesh of of halibut halibut is is greatly greatly valued valued as as food, food, The and all ail recipes recipes for for brill brill (q.v.) (q.v.) may rnay be be used used for for this this fish. fish. and HALICOT OF OF MUTTON. MUTTON. rHucor HALICOT DE DE MouroN MOUTONA mutton rnutton HALICOT -A stew garnished garnished with with turnips, turnips, potatoes, potatoes, onions, onions, and, and, somesornestew MUTTON, Haricot Haricot or or halicot halicot times, with with haricot haricot beans. beans. See See MUTTON, times, ofmutton. of mutton. tenn is is also also applied applied smoked. In In current current usage, usage, however, however, the the term smoked. ofpig pig that that is is cured cured in in the the same sarne fashion. fashion. This This to the the shoulder shoulder of to cut, though thoughexcellent, excellent, is is nevertheless nevertheless a a good good deal deal less less delicate delicate cut, than the the leg. leg. than In French French cookery cookery the the term tennjambon jambon not not only only means rneans ham harn In but also also applies applies to to a a leg leg of of fresh fresh pork. pork. This This cut cut can can be be but or divided divided into into cooked in in a a great great many rnany ways, ways, either either whole whole or cooked Itis is also also used used as as an an ingredient ingredient for for stuffing, stuffing, and and srnallercuts. cuts. It smaller invarious variousmanufactured rnanufactured pork porkproducts products(see (seePORK). PORK). A A Ham Ham in Fairis isheld held regularly regularly in in Paris Paris and and several several other other large large French French Fair cities. This This fair fair whictr, which, in in former former times, tirnes, was was held held during during the the cities. Good Friday, Friday, and and which whichwas wasthen thencalled called threedays dayspreceding precedingGood three du lard lard (the (the Bacon Bacon Fair), Fair), took took place place in in the the square square in in Foire &t Foire ofNotre-Dame. Notre-Dame. The The canons canons leased leased the the ground ground to to the the front of front pork butchers. butchers. The The site site was was changed changed several several butchers and and pork butchen 442 42 HAM. tAMBoN JAMBON - Strictly, Strictly, a a ham harn is is a a leg leg of of pork, pork, salted salted and and HAM. is more more elongated elongated in in shape shape than than other other flat fiat fish, fish, the the The body body is The is large. large. A A halibut halibut eyes are are on on the the right right side, side, and and the the mouth rnouth is eyes

tirnes. In In 1813, 1813, the the fair fair was was transferred transferred to to the the quai times. quai des Grands-A ugustins, where where it remained remained until until 1832. 1832. It Grands-Augustins, It was and in in 1848 was transrnoved to faubourg Saint-Martin, moved Saint-Martin, and 1848 was ferred to the boulevard boulevard Bourdon. At the end of the Second rnoved, for the the last last time, tirne, to to the the boulevard boulevard Empire it was moved, todcry. where it is still held today. Richard-Lenoir, where and smoking of pork to produce ham harn is is of The salting and French origin. It was the Gauls, great devotees of pig meat French and efficient efficient pig pig breeders, breeders, who first became becarne renowned renowned for the and salting, smoking smoking and curing curing of of the the various cuts cuts of of pork. salting, After salting, the the Gauls subjected subjected thern thern for two days days to the After They then then rubbed rubbed them thern srnoke of certain selected woods. They smoke with oil and and vinegar vinegar and hung them thern up, to dry and and preserve preserve with The Gauls ate ham harn either at at the the beginning beginning of ofa rneal to them. The them. a meal or at the end end to induce thirst. sharpen their their appetites, appetites, or sharpen Many different different kinds kinds of of salt salt and smoked srnoked ham are obtainob tainMany in France. France. Almost Alrnost every every region region has has its own local ham. harn. able in able de Bayonne, Bayonne, cured Arnong the the best best known known arc are the the jambon jambon de Among curd at but known known the the world over as as jambon jambon de de Bayonne. Bayonne. Orthez, but is eaten eaten raw, raw, as as an hors-d'euvre.lt hors-d'uvre. It is also also used used in harn is This ham other cooking in in various various ways, ways, but but unlike unlike York ham harn or other cooking lightly smoked srnoked hams, harns, it must must not not be be boiled. Jambon Jambon de de lightly Bayonne is served served with with eggs eggs cooked cooked in in various various ways, and it Bayonne also forms fonns an an ingredient ingredient of of various various sauces sauces and ragots. The also and ragofrts.The jambon jambon de de Toulouse Toulouse is is merely merely salted and dried. It It is eaten eaten de Bayonne, Bayonne, and and is is also also used used in in cooking. cooking. raw like like the thejambon jambon de raw of salted saI ted and and smoked srnoked hams harns called called There are are a a large large number n urn ber of There France jambons de de campagne. campagne. Among Arnong these these are are the the hams hams of in Francejambons in Brittany, Morvan, Morvan, Burgundy, Burgundy, Montagne-Noir Montagne-Noir (C6vennes), (Cvennes), Brittany, Lorraine, Alsace, Alsace, Touraine, Touraine, Limousin, Limousin, Auvergne, Auvergne, the the Lorraine, Vosges, Savoy, Sa voy, etc. etc. Almost Alrnost all ail these these hams ha ms are are eaten eaten raw, or Vosges, rnay be be used used in in cooking, cooking, like like the the jambon jambon de de Toulouse. Toulouse. Some Sorne may York ham. harn. rnay be be boiled boiled like like York may French cooking cooking hams, hams, similar sirnilar to to English English cooking cooking hams, harns, French or jambon jambon demi-sel, demi-sel, also also known known as as jambon jambon arejambon jambon blanc blanc or are de ParisParis. This This ham, harn, which which is is either either not not smoked srnoked at at all ail or or only only de very lightly lightly smoked, srnoked, is is sold sold by by all ail French French pork pork butchers butchers very na me of ofjambon jambon glaci. glac. under the the name under The food food value value of of ham ham is is more more or or less less equivalent equivalent to to that that of of The rneaL However, However, salted salted or or smokod srnoked raw raw ham harn is is not not to to be be meat. recornrnended for for fragile fragile digestions, digestions, and and more more robust robust recommended of it. it. Cooked Cooked constitutions should should not not consume consume too too much rnuch of constitutions harn, on on the the other other hand, hand, may rnay be be given given to to children children and and ham, is best best boiled boiled in in plenty plenty of of water water invalids. Home-cooked Home-cooked ham harn is invalids. bought to remove rem ove fats fats and and toxic toxic substances. substances. Boiled Boiled ham harn bought to comrnercially, tinted tinted pink pink by by the the addition addition of of potassium potassium commercially, is better better avoided. avoided. nitrate, is nitrate,

HAM HAM
lent lent hams harns are are cured cured in in the the U.S.A. U.S.A. However, However, almost alrnost all ail American to Europe, Europe, and and particularly particularly to Arnerican hams harns exported exported to
France, France, are cookod cooked and preserved. preserved . JAMBONS D'ANGLETBRRE D'ANGLETERRE - English hams harns are EngJish hams. barns. rnunoNs English usually usually described on on French French menus as as York ham, harn, but but a distinction distinction must be made between between the various various methods rnethods of processing. processing. This This is indicated indicated by their trade mark. mark. York ham, srnoked (lightly (Iightly or heavily), is usually usually harn, which which is smoked boiled. It is served either hot or cold. When hot, a special boiled. sauce sauce is served with it, flavoured with Madeir4 Madeira, sheery, port, York ham harn can also be be boiled and then then baked baked in the oyen, etc. York oven, covered with brown brown sugar, sugar, spice and cloves. covered York ham, harn, thinly sliced and saut6ed sauted inbutter, in butter, is often Raw York American American foams harns (preserved). (preserved). r.luroNs JAMBONS D'AMfRrew D'AMRIQUE - Excelparsley, and and the the foreleg hams, harns, Dijon hams harns prepared with parsley, hams of Paris, Reims, Strasbourg, Nancy etc. ha ms of industry, involves of ham, harn, which is now a great industry, The curing curing of The harns hams are salting and and smoking. The two two main operations, salting with dry dry salt, or rubbed over with either salted brine, or dry either salted in brine, well covered and left for three days weil salt, saltpetre and sugar and sall

put into into brine, brine, washed, They are are then then put with this this mixture. They with
chambers, smoked in special chambers, brushed and dried, and finally srnoked grows denser as the operasmoke which grows starting with a light srnoke starting

with eggs. eggs. served with

Baked York York ham barn Baked

D'ALLEMAGNE, DE BoIr6IvtE, BOH~ME, DE HoNcRJE HONGRIE D'ALLEIr.IAGNE,

German, Czechoelovakian Czechoslovakian ad and Hungsrian Hungarian hrms. barns. JAMBONS Germann JAMBoNS best-known is - The best-known harn which, like Westphalian Westphalian harn" harn, is is mostly rnostly eaten Mainz ham rnay also be boiled whole and before the raw, but may and served before course. Other well-known German frorn main course. German harns come from

tion proceeds. proceeds. Poaching. Ham should be soaked in cold water for at least Poaching. boned at at the It is is then then scrubbed, scrubbed, boned hours before cooking. cooking. It 6 hours to cook, cook, without without any water to churnp end into cold cold water chump end and and put into seasoning or arornatics. seasoning aromatics. sometimes described harn cooked in this way is sornetimes Although ham 'boiled', it should, in fact, be poached and so as soon as the as 'boiled', poach, simrnering simmering heat and and leave to poach, reduce the heat water boils, reduce so that the water just shivers. Allow 20 minutes very gently so (l lb.) of York, Harnburg g. (J Hamburg or Paris cooking time per 500 g. little require a a Httle harn. Czechoslovakian and Spanish harns hams require ham. and Spanish less cooking cooking tirne. time. If ham is to be served cold, leave it to cool in the water If the harn remove in which it was cooked. Ifit ove If it is to be served hot, drain, rem glaze. the skin, skin, and and glaze. Cold harn ham is served with with jelly. frequently Hot ham harn is vegetables, rnost most frequently Hot is served served with with vegetables, spinach, Madeira or other wine sauce. spinach, and with Madeira poached the remove Glazing. the harn ham as as described, described, rernove Glazing. Having poached pan, sprinkle witb the skin. harn into sugar and into a a pan, with sugar and the skin. Put Put the ham brown in the oyen oven or under the grill. The sugar, upon cararnelising, light glaze on on the a Iight caramelising, forms a surface its appearance appearance not only only rnakes makes its the harn, ham, which which not surface of the flavour. more appetising, but also gives it a good flavour. given The harn method given ham can also be glazed by following the rnethod for braised rneats AR Y METHODS). METHODS). CULINARY meats (see CULIN

Gotha and Stuttgart. Stuttgart. Hamburg, Gotha is Prague Prague ham; harn; it The best best Czechoslovakian Czechoslovakian ham harn is The it is whole, and makes rnakes a cooked whole, a delicious prelude to to the main harns are made in course. It is served cold. Excellent srnoked course. smoked hams are made Hungary. Hungary. Italian hams harns. reMsoNs JAMBONS D'rrALrE D'ITALIE - The best-known Italian Itrlian is Parma ham. harn. This is is usually usually eaten raw as harn is ham eateNr raw as an an horsis one one of the most rnost delicate of harns. be d'uvre and is d'euvre hams. It It can be though it must not be be boiled, but cut into used in cooking, though thin slices or diced and sauted in butter or fat. fat. Cooked in saut6ed in be served eggs, various this way it can be served with eggs, various rneat meat dishes, dishes, risottos. poultry or risottos. poultry There are other other kinds of ltalian There are Italian harn ham which which are are either boiled whole and eaten used in the same way eaten hot or cold, or used the sarne as Parma ham. harn. as Spanish barns. lNrasoNs JAMBONS D'ESPAGNE Asturias harn Spani$ hams. D'EspAcr.rE han is is the the - Asturias best-known Spanish best-knovm Spanish harn. ham. It is is rnild, mild, very very delicate delicate in flavour, flavour, and is eaten eate,n hot or cold after having been been boiled. It It is is also also harns of used in cooking cooki.g like the hams of Bayonne and and Toulouse. poRc SAL Salted Sdted and srnoked harn. JAMBON lA,MsoN DE DE PORC rurrlf smoked barn. snlJ ET sr FUM Salted and and smoked srnoked harns, whether of Salted hams, whether of French French or or foreign been boiled as described below, provide origin, after having been as described an intermediate interrnediate course (remove) much prized by connois(remove) much an prized by connoisseurs. These harns are seurs. These boiled hams are also also served served cold. cold. Boiled and cold hams of various kinds are cold harns are to be be found found in ail the pork butchers of Paris and all and the the big big provincial towns. towns. In these shops frorn the jambon de In these shops are sold, apart are sold, apart from the jarnbon de Paris Paris harns boned boned and (jambon glac), boiled hams and moulded moulded with with jelly, Qarnbon glaci), srnoked harns boiled boiled and smoked hams and cold, cold, boiled boiled rolled rolled harns, hams, Dijon Dijon 443 43

Jambonnire (Larousse) pan for Jambonnicre or braising pan for barn hzm(Larcuse)

ham as and poach very Braising. Soak the harn as described above and gently, so so that boiling is is hardly perceptible. Rernove ham 40 40 minutes Remove the the harn minutes before before it it is is cornpletely completely cooked. Skin it and put into a (scant pan. Add 5 a braising pan. dl. (scant 5 dl. pint, (port, pint, 2i liqueur wine cups) Madeira Madeira or or any any other other liqueur wine (port, 2f cups) sherry, sherry, Frontignan, Lunel, Marsala etc.). Coyer with a a lid lid and and cook cook in in the the oyen oven for for between between 45 45 Cover with minutes minutes and I hour. hour. Glaze as described described above. above. the harn ham as and 1 Glaze the Arrange put a paper frill Arrange on a paper frill around the on a a serving serving dish dish and and put around the knuckle. knuckle. Garnish de-scribed in in the the recipe, recipe, or or serve serve the the Garnish as as de~cribed garnish and and the the appropriate sauce separately. separately. appropriate sauce Garnishes and York and and other other hams and sauces sauces suitable for hams for York served (Madeira sauce), (Madeira s e r v ed hot. b err ic honne (Madeira ho t. Alsacienne A I s ac ienrc (Madeira sauce), berrichonne sauce), (Madeira (Madeira sauce), sauce), brabanonne brabangonne (Madeira sauce), chipolata chipolata (Madeira sauce), (Madeira sauce), glazed, sauce), glazed sauce), braised braised celery celery or or celeriac celeriac (Madeira cucurnbers (Madeira cucumbers in big chunks sauce), chicory chicory (Madeira chunks (Madeira sauce), sauce), (Madeira sauce), sauce), flamande sauce), leaf or or chopped chopped spinach spinach (Madeira flamande (demi-glace (dcmi-glace sauce), macCdoine sauce\, hongroise hongroise (demi-glace sauce), sauce), macdoine

HAM

Ham Ham glace glac (RoDert (Robert Cafiier') Carrier)

444 M4

HAM HAM
(demi-glace (demi-glace sauce), sauce), nivernaise nivernaise (demi-glace (demi-glace sauce), sauce), noodles noodles with noisette noisette butter butter (Madeira, (Madeira, sherry sherry or port port sauce), garden garden with peas peas or or other other green green vegetable vegetable dressed dressed with butter butter or cream cream (Madeira (Madeira sauce, sauce, or or wine-flavoured wine-flavoured cream cream sauce), sauce), various various fresh or or dried dried vegetable vegetable pur6es pures (demi-glace (demi-glace sauce sauce flavoured flavoured fresh Madeira or other other liqueur liqueur wine), wine), romaine romaine (Marsala (Marsala with Madeira with sauce). (See (See GARNISHES, GARNISHES, SAUCE.) sauce). Ham A I'alsacienne l'alsacienne I. J. rnaron JAMBON A t'ats.lcIBNNE L'ALSACIENNE - Braise Braise the Ham glaze it as harn and and glaze as described above. above. Garnish Garnish with braised ham sauerkraut, Strasbourg Strasbourg sausages sa usages and and boiled boiled potatoes. potatoes. sauerkraut, Ham i I'alsacienne l'alsacienne II. Il. rAMsoN JAMBON A r'lrs^lclsNNn L'ALSACIENNE - Heat Ham cooked, thinly sliced York ham ham in in a a few few tablespoons of cooked, without allowing it to boil. Serve on a foundation of stock without braised sauerkraut. braised Garnish with Strasbourg Strasbourg sausages sausages and boiled potatoes. potatoes. Garnish Ham i la bayonnaise. bayonnaise. JAMBoN JAMBON A L.l LA slvoNNAIsE BA YONNAISE - Poach Poach a Ham harn in water until three three quarters weil de-salted de-salted Bayonne ham well cooked . Take out out of the the pan, pan, remove skin skin and and trim trim off cooked. surface only. surplus fat on the surface Put it into a a pan pan and finish braising braising in Madeira. Madeira. Glaze Glaze and (se' PILAF), a long dish. pilaf (see dish. Serve with Rice pilaf arrange on a little and !ittle chopped tomatoes, tomatoes, small small button button mushrooms mushrooms and chopped chipolata sausages fried fried in butter. Serve with Madeira sauce chipolata (see SA UCE) based on the braising liquor. liguor. SAUCE) PERSILLE DE Burgundian ham bam with parsley parsley (cold). JAMBON JAMBoN PERSILL hrrgundian BOURGOGNE - This is an an Easter luncheon dish Burgundy' in Burgundy. dish in BouRGocNE Wash and and desalt desalt the the ham. ham. Blanch it it thoroughly, drain, Wash pan with skin, and cut into big pieces. Put these these into a a large pan 500 oz.) sliced feet, boned, 2 calf's calf's feet, (18 oz.) knuckle, 2 g. (18 veal knuckle, sliced veal 500 g. (q.v.) a big bouquet garni (g.v.) blanched and tied with string, and a with, and tarragon, herbs, chervil chervil and usual herbs, to the usual in addition to with, in and a Season with a peppercorns (tied in a a piece ofmuslin). of muslin). Season l0 peppercorns and JO little all the meat. meat. cover ail to coyer little salt. salt. Add enough dry white wine to Bring to me, reduce heat, coyer, cover, and and reduce heat, high fla flame, on a a high the boil boil on to the simmer gently on clear stock. stock. a very very clear heat, ta obtain a low heat, to obtain a low on a This the ham. accompany the the jelly to accompany be used used for making the This will be When and a fork fork and with a cooked, drain, drain, flake with well cooked, the ham ham is is weil When the put into a well. down weil. dish, pressing it down a salad salad dish, Strain vinegar. tarragon vinegar. liquor. Add Add 1 tablespoonful tarragon the liquor. Strain the (3 tableWhen table2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 add 2 to coagulate, coagulate, add it begins begins to When it spoons) ham. Leave Leave over the ham. parsley. Pour Pour this jelly over chopped parsley. spoons) chopped in prepare this this dish dish to prepare It is is advisable advisable to cold. It in a a cool cool place until cold. the required. day before before it is is required. the day Ham Cook a a JAMBoN AU AU CHAMBERTIN cHAMBERTn -- Cook in Chambertin. Ham in Chambertin. JAMBON York quarters done. done. three quarters in water water until until three ham in York or or Prague Prague ham Drain, skin. Drain, trim trim and and skin. Braise cooked, When cooked, on Chambertin. Chambertin. When liquor based based on Braise in in a a liquor drain glaze. ham and and glaze. drain the the harn Surround glazd onions mushand button button mushonions and with small small glazed Surround with rooms pour liquor and and pour the braising braising liquor Strain the frid in in butter. butter. Strain rooms fried over ham. over the the ham. Cold and, if if ham in in water water and, the harn FRoID -- Poach Poach the ham. JAMBON JAMBoN FROID Cold barn. it poaching in its its poaching leave it it to to cool cool in whole, leave is to to be be served served whole, it is liquor, ove skin, with Aspic Aspic jelly cover with and coyer remove skin, and liquor, then then trim, trim, rem ielly (see Y). (see JELL JELLY). Ifit put into into aa skin, put remove skin, bone it, it, trim, trim, rernove is to to be be moulded, moulded, bone If it is Id, and special press. under a a press. leave to to cool cool under and leave special mou mould, Cold Pound DE JAt\1BON JAMBoN -- Pound Mous$ FROIDE FRoIDE DE mousse. MOUSSE ham mousse. Cold ham finely (18 oz.) g. (18 lean ham ham adding adding oz.) cooked cooked lean in a a mortar mortar 500 500 g. finely in 2 (see Velouti sauce sauce (see (+ pint, pint, scant thick Velout cup) cold, cold, thick scant cup) 2 dl. dl. (1 UCE) . Rub SA a sieve. sieve. through a Rub through SAUCE). Put ice and andstir it on stir stand it purde into on ice into aa bowl, bowl, season, season,stand Put this this pure with en spoon little by by for aa few few minutes, adding, little with a a wood wooden spoon for minutes, adding, !ittle, jelly. Fold pint, pint, ~ dl. (f;pint, liquid jelly. Fold in in 44dl. little, li l+ dl. dl. (i c,rp) liquid ft pint, 3 cup) scant jellyJined Pour into into aa jelly-lined scant 2 2 cups) cups) half-whipped half-whipped crearn. cream. Pour mould to set. set. mould and and leave leave on on ice ice to Turn cro0ton. and and Turn out buttered bread bread croton, or aa buttered out onto onto aa dish, dish. or garnish jelly. garnish with with jelly.

Ham mousse mousse Ham

A LA a York York or or Ham JAMBoN m CRME cnirun -- Cook Cook a A la la crme. crbme. JAMBON Ham two thirds thirds done, done, skin, skin, and and ham in in salted salted water until until two Prague harn (q.v.). Drain glaze. Drain and and glaze. in a a Madeira mirepoix (q.v.). braise in two thirds, and and add liquor by add 5 5 dl. dl. by two Boil down the braising liquor (scant pint, pint, 2* cream. Boil Boil down down sauce sauce 2l cups) cups) fresh fresh double double cream. (scant ham. serve with with the the ham. by one third, strain, strain, and and serve by sN CROTE Prague h{fm hrnn in in Hanr en m crote. JAMBoN EN cno0rE -- See Se Prague cro0te. JAMBON Ham d l'ancienne. l'ancienne. pastry

glace Ham Ham glac Reine Reine Pdauque P6dauque (Larousse) (Larousse)

(cold buffet rnanoN glac6 Reine buffet dish). dish). JAMBON Pddauque (cold Ham Ham glac Reine Pdauque pope's eye eye slices the thepope's into thin thin slices Cut into - Cut poached in (U.S. inMeursault Meursault ham, poached (U .S. eye of aa York York harn, eye of of the the round) round) of again, the slices slices together together again, wine left untiJ cold. Put Put the wine and and left until cold. (see purie (see gras pure sandwiching layersof of Foie Foie gras with layers sandwiching them them with ham the harn reshaping the PURE) diced truffies, trufles, reshaping PUREE) mixed with diced mixed with port-flavouredChaud-froid Chaud-froid into with port-fiavoured Coat with form. Coat into its its original original form. portglaze with with portUCE). Decorate sauce (se SA truffies, glaze Decorate with with truffies, sauce (see SAUCE). jellycrotons. jelly, and cro0tons. flavoured with jelly and surround surround with flavoured aspic aspic jelly, AULAITUES, LAITUES, JAMBoN AU Ham and endives. endives. JAMBON with lettuce, lettuce, chicory chicory and Ham with in Madeira, Madeira, Braise the hamin AUX theham ENDIVES A LA ra CHICORE cmconir - - Braise AUX ENDIVES (orchicory orendive) endive) garnish lettuces(or chicoryor garnish with halved braised braised lettuces with halved (see and Demi-glace sauce sauce(see Madeira-flavoured Demi-glace and serve serve with with Madeira-fiavoured SAUCE). SAUCE). ham, Ham Desaltthe theham, u MAILLOT u.l'trror - - Desalt ALA lamaiUot. JAMBoN Ham i la maillot. JAMBON panand wrap andcoyer cover with with put in inaalarge large braising braising pan it in inaacloth, cloth,put wrap it cold gently. cold water. water. Simmer Simmergently. When intoaasrnall small skin.Put Putititinto drain and andskin. iscooked, cooked, drain theham ham is Whenthe (scantpint, pint, 2* 2|cups) cups) braising grid,add panwith litre (scant add!I litre with aagrid, braising pan
pEoluer.]E GLAC REINE nsn[E PDAUQUE

crltcf

445 445

HAM
Madeira. Madeira. Coyer Cover and simmer for 30 minutes. Glaze. Garnish glazed carrots into balls, French beans, with balls, French beans, small with glazed carrots cut cut into glazd in in stock, and and braised lettuce. Arrange Arrange these onions onions glazed and serve with Madeira Madeira sauce vegetables in separate groups and (see SAUCE). pashy, or bam tmfres. ham turnover fumover with foie gras and trufHes. Ham in pastry,
AU FOIE GRAS ET EN CHAUSSON, CHAUS$N, CHAUSSON DE JAMBON AU JAMBON EN

or sherry. When a harn ham in Madeira, port or TRUFFES in Madeira, TRUFFES - Braise a and the round, round, trim them, cooked, take out the pope's eye eye and l0 slices of uniform thickness. and cut each into 8 or 10 thickness. these on rolled out out Lining an oval-shaped piece Put these piece of rolled on an (se.e DOUGH) paste foundation of DOUGID on on a a foundation of duxelles &txelles (q.v.) pas te (see mixture and and chopped chopped truffies, truffies, alternating with with layers layers of mixture gras tossed in butter, and foie gras and slivers of truffies. Coyer Cover the foie trufres, a layer of duxelles duxelles mixture and and chopped truffies, ham with a put another piece of rolled-out.lining rolled-outJining paste on top, seal, seal, and pinch up the edges. Brush the top with beaten egg, make a up the beater egg, few light incisions and a hole in the middle to allow steam to escape. Bake in a hot oyen oven for about 45 minutes. (see SAUCE) a few few tablespoons of of Port sauce (see Pour Port sauce Pour a and serve the rest of ofthe sauoe separately. separately. through the hole and the sauce through pastry can be gamishes, Ham be prepared with with various Ham in in pastry various garnishes, ragofrt ragofrt d lafinancire. lafinanciire, ragot d la h Godard, morels morels fried such as ragot braised vegetable. vegetable. in butter, spinach or any other braised place the harn is to place ham and and its garnish on Another variation is a round piece of pastry, which is then folded over, forming a the classic turnover. turnover. pArE DE pie. PT os JAMBON JAMBoN thin slices slices of ham, Ham Ham pie. Using thin - Using FORCEMEAT) and truffies, prepare as fine forcemeat (see FORCEMEAn Veal and and ham ham pAti Veal pt (see PT). $eePATE). ham in pastry I'ancienne. JAMBON IRAGUE EN I l'ancienne. JAMBoN DE PRAGUE Prague bam pAre.i L'ANcIENNE PTE L'ANCIENNE - Poach the ham in water until it is twothirds done. Drain, skin and glaze. put it, glazd si piece of When cold, it, glazed side When de down, cold, put down, on on a a big piece (xe DOUGH), spread with a layer Lining paste rolled-out Lining paste (see

in pastry Prague ham l'ancienne d l'ancienne Prague haro in (Larousse\ (Larousse)

(q.v) of of vegetables have been of fine fine mirepoix mirepoix (q.v.) which have of vegetables which driod duxelles (q.v.) and softened softened in butter and mixed with dried chopped truffies. Tum it ham in the pastry and and seal seal the edges. Turn Enclose the harn and put into a a buttered baking tin, tin, sealed sealed si side over and de down. Brush the the top top with with beaten egg, egg, and and decorate with Brush with fancy pieces of Make a hole in the middle to allow steam to pieces of pastry. Make ove,n for about 45 minutes. escape and bake in a hot oyen (see into it it a Pour into few tablespoons of Pirigueux Prigueux sauce (see a few middle. SAUCE) through the hole in the middle. Ham with sauerkraut. sauerkraut JAMBON JAMBoN A LA tl CHOUCROUTE cnoucRourE Ham - The sance same as Harn d l'alsacienne. I'alsacienne. Serve with Demi-glace sauce sa me as Ham Serve with (see SAUCE) SAUCE) or a sauce based on Aisation Alsation wine. Aux PINARDS Ham with spinacb. spinach. JAMBON JAMBoN AUX tprNARDs - Braise the ham in butter, in Madeira. Madeira. Serve with with leaf spinach cooked cooked in in butter, or spinach cooked in stock. Serve with Demi-glace or chopped spinach (w SAUCE). Madeira sauce (see

( Robert Carrier) Carrier) Ham in pastry (Robert

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HARE HARE
Braise Braise the the ham ham in in Madeira. Madeira. Glazs Glaze and and surround surround with with Financiire Financire garnish garnish (see (see GARNISHES). GARNISHES). Skim Skim off offsurplus surplus fat fat from liquor, boil boil down, down, strain, strain, and and pour pour over over from the the braising braising liquor,
the the ham. ham. HAMBLTRGER HAMBURGER STEAK' STEAK, (Austrellnngarian (Austro-Hungarian cmkery). cookery). rrrKEFbrowned inbutter rsDEsTEDES-This Thisdishis dish ismade made from from minced minced beef beefbrowned in butter or or fat. fat. Similar Similar 'steaks' 'steaks' are are made made from from minced minced veal, veal, poultry poultry and game. game. Here Here is is a a Hungarian Hungarian recrpe recipe for for hamburger hamburger steak: steak: and I1 kg. kg. QI (2 lb.) lb.) finely finely minced minced lean lean beef beef or or veal, veal, 10 10 rashers rashers chopped chopped bacon. bacon. Mix Mix the the beef beef or or veal veal with with the the bacon bacon and and add add to to it it 200 200 g. g. (7 (7 oz.) oz.) of of crustless crustless bread bread soaked soaked in in milk milk and and squeezed squeezed out. out. Season Season with with salt, salt, pepper pepper and and grated grated nutmeg. nutmeg. When When all aU the the ingredients ingredients are are well weil mixd, mixed, divide divide into into pieces pieces of of equal weight. weight. Shape Shape each each piece piece into into a a steak steak 7J cm. cm. (3 (3 inch) thick. inches) inches) in in diameter diameter and and 2 2 cm. (nr (~inch) truck. Flour, Flour, and and fry fry in in fat. fat. When When they they are cooked, cooked, dip dip in in concentrated concentrated meat meat stock. stock. Serve Serve with with mashed mashed potatoes potatoes or other other vegetables. vegetables. Hamburger Hamburger steak steak (German (German cookery). cookery). KEFTEDES lFTEDES DE DE BoEUF BOEUfProceed Proceed as for for Hamburger Hamburger steak (also (a/so called called d l'allemande) l'allemande) (see (see BEEF), BEEF), but but leave Ieave out the the chopped fried fried onions. onions. pe BOEUf A Hamburger Hamburger steaks steaks la berlinoise. berlinoise. KEFTEDEs KEFTEDES DE nosuF rA, LA BERLINoIsB Mince finely fine1y 300 300 g. g. (II oz.) oz.) lean kan beef beef and and BERLINOlSE - Mince 75 e. g. Q (3 oz.) oz.) fat bacon or salt pork' pork. Add Add 75 75 e. g. Q (3 oz.) oz.) soft soft 75 brcad soaked soaked in milk milk and and squeezed dry. dry. Season Season with with salt, salt, bread pepper and nutmeg and mix thoroughly. so that Divide the mixture into 4 parts. parts. Shape each each piece piece so that Dip in flour and fry in boiling flal. Dip boiling lard. lard. Brown Brown it is round and flat. sauce (see Potn Demi'glace sides. Pour on both the the steaks well weil on both sides. Demi-glace sauce (see thern to serve. SAUCE) over them fat DE GIBIER cIBIERKEFTEDEs DE hamburger steaks. KEFTEDES Game - Remove Remove fat Gare hamburger tableadding 1 tablegame. Minee Mince finely, the game. from the and fnely, adding and sinews sinews from pieces into pieces spoon chopped onion browned in butter. butter, Divide Divide into in Dip in shapes. Dip oval shapes. round or or oval little round of equal size and pat into Iittle and sauce and an appropria appropriate butter. Serve with an and fry in butter. flour and te sauce garnish. gamish. ProVoLAILLE ., DE VOLAILLE KEFTEDES DE steaks. KEFTEDES Pooltry hamburger steaks. Poultry bamburger - Propoultry for for substituting poultry hamburger steaks, substituting for Game Gante hamburger ceed as as for game. game. York Yorkham hamiIa lafinnncilre" financire. JAMBoN JAMBOND'YoRK D'YORKA I"q' LAFINANcGRE HNANCLRE-

fi

(ll

porbeagle. Type of of porbeagle. MARTEAU SHARK. MARTEAU HAMMERHEAD SHARK. HAMMERHEAD - Type in sorne some eaten in and eaten leathery, is salted salted and and leathery, is oily oily and Its flesh, flesh, which which is Its parts of of the the world. world. parts

meat or or tenderising meat for tenderising Process for MoRTIFIER -- Process HANGING. MORTIFIER HANGING. period. for a a period. hang for game by to hang leaving it it to by leaving game very dry dry a cool, cool, well-ventilated, well-ventilated, very in a hook in a hook Hang meat meat on on a Hang place. place.
highly flavoured flavoured flesh, highly with dark dark flesh, rodent with Wild rodent t dvns - Wild HARE. LIVRERARE. than delicate than is more more delicate hare is mountain hare The mountain to cal. eat. The and excellent excellent to and plains. that of of the the plains. that ln doe. In a doe. the female female a and the buck and a buck is called called a The male male hare hare is The afinancier; is called called a young leveret to 3 3 months months is up to leveret up a young France a France financier; year a a capucin capucin,or and at at aa year tois-quarfs and to 6 6 months months aa Irois-quarts up to up or that fact that by the the fact recognised by can he be recognised hares can Young hares livre ti|vre fait. fait. Young prominence on on aa rounded prominence little rounded and bya by a little easily and ears tear tear easily their ears their grows older. joint which it grows older. as it disappears as which disappears leg joint under the the Ieg bone bone under left if it it is isleft or, if isshot, shot,or, as it it is soon as assoon fresb, as Hare can can he be eaten eaten fresh, Hare on the the depending on killing, depending after killing, days after getcold, or three three days cold, two two or to get to 'high'. year.It never be be eaten eaten 'rugh'. It must must never of the the year. time of time fust inits itsfirst tenderin is always always tender A hare hare is hare. A ahare. How 10 to choose choose a How stringy, andstringy, tough and grows oider itsflesh flesh becomes becomes tough year. As older its itgrows As it year. year. itssecond second year. in its tender in female is isstill still tender the female but the but paws slenderpaws their slender by their berecognised recognised by hares can can he First-year hares FirSI-year hares, inolder older hares, which,in coat wruch, of their their coat thesmoothness smoothnessof and by by the and greying. ofgreying. tracesof shows traces wavyaand slightly wavy becomes slightly becomes nd shows fur of of the the thefur under the hidden under claws, hidden young hare, theclaws, hare, the Inaayoung In

paws, paws, are are invisible. invisible. With With age, age, the the claws claws grow grow and and project project slightly slightlybeyond beyond the thefur. fur. Brie, of Beauce, those French French hares. hares. The The best best are are those of Beauce, Brie, NorNormandy, mandy, Champagne Champagne and and Touraine. Touraine, The The hares hares of ofnorthern northern France France and and Brittany Brittany are are of ofinferior inferior quality. This is is due due to to the the nature nature of of the the soil, soil, which which is is poor poor quality, This feeding feeding ground ground for for hares. hares. golden The The hares hares of of Beauce, Beauce, Brie Brie and and Champagne Champagne have have golden coats, coats, the the colour colour of ofripe ripe corn. corn. The The hares hares of of Normandy Normandy and and Touraine Touraine are are usually usually small' small, with with tan tan coats, coats, darker darker than than those those of of Beauce, Beauce, Brie Brie and and ChamChampagne. pagne. The The hares hares of of Brittany Brittany are are small, small, and and have have very very dark dark tan tan coats coats mottled mottled with with black. black. quality, fine are of France southern hares of Many Many of of the the hares of southem Franee are of fine quality, especially of P6rigord Prigord and and Gascony, Gascony, though though these these are are especially those those of Paris. in sale on found to be seldom seldom to he found on sale in Paris. English English hares. hares. Similar Similar to to those those from from NormandyNomlandy. German German hares. !lares, Latger Larger than than the the French French varieties varieties but but inferior inferior in in flavour. Ilavour. For this dish Hare Hare i I'allemande. l'allemande. r$vnr LVRE A r'ltLn'HNDE L'ALLEMANDE - For this dish the the saddle sadd le and and haunch haunch ofthe of the hare hare are are used. used. Roast Roast the the hare hare in in the the usual usual way way and and pour pour sour sour cream cream into into the the roasting roasting pan. pan. separatelyserve Strain Strain the the sauce sauce through through a a fine fine sieve sieve and and serve separately. (See Sometimes Sometimes this trus sauce sauce is is poured poured over over the the hare. hare. (See also also Saddle Saddle of of hare hare d I'allemande l'allemande below)below). Made of os LtivRE (colO. BALLoTTINE hare of Ballotine - Made of BaIJotine of hare (cold). BALLOTTINE DE LiVRE pork fal, fat, foic slices of slices of hare, hare, lean lean ham, ham, pickled pickled tongue, tongue, pork foie gras, gras, of Galantine of same way stumng, in and hare truffies truffles and hare stuffing, in the the same way as as Galantine GALANTINE). chicken cMcken (see (see GALANTINE). DE la perigurdine of hare Ballottine @oQ. BALLoTTINE Ballottine of bore la prigourdine (hot). BALLOTTINE DE pfnrcounpn*son a young r-1, PRlGOURDl1'-'E uivnr LVRE A LA - Bone Bone a young harehare. Spread Spread it it on pork fat. Season with of pork slices of with thin covered with a cloth covered a cloth thin slices fat. Season with of a layer with a it' Coyer Cover with pour brandy over il. and pour salt and spiced salt spiced brandy over layer of chopped with chopped a leveret, flesh of of a the fiesh game stuffing made from stuffing made game from the leveret, with put altemate thin alternate thin stuffing put of this this stuffing On top added. On truffies added. truffles top of in butter, and browned thighs the from hare, cut of strips strips of hare, cut from the trughs and browned in butter, pour Season and and pour gras and of truffles. trufres. Season slices of and slices of /oie strips of strips foie gras of ri gratin a layer layer of with a Cover with ingredients. Coyer these ingredients. over these brandy over brandy gratin roll into a a roll hare into Fold the the hare (see FORCEMEAT). game stuffing FORCEMEAT). Fold stuffing (see game made stock made braising stock Madeira braising in a a Madeira it in Braise it string. Braise tie with with string. and tie and hare and and of the the hare trimmings of and trimmings the bones bones and veal, the of veal, from shin shin of from hours' for IJ lf hours. pot vegetables. Cook for vegetables. Cook usual pot and the the usual leveret, and the leveret, the oven. in the the oyen. Brown in the string. string. Brown remove hare and and rem the hare Drain the Drain ove the trufres shredded truffles add shredded strain" add liquor, strain, the braising braising Iiquor, down the Boil down Boil pour over the ballottine. ballottine. over the and pour and young a young draw a and draw Skin and nn LIVRE lrivnn - Skin clvst DE of hore. hare. CIVET Civef of Civet reliver, reput it the liver, it aside aside with with the and put the blood blood and Collect the hare. Colleet hare. gall bladder. bladder. the galJ moving the moving pieces. Put 4 pieces. 3 or or 4 into 3 the body body into cutting the hare, cutting the hare, Joint the Joint Put powdered pepper, thyme and powdered thyme and salt, pepper, with salt, season with in a a dislr, dish, -season these in these table2 or 3 with Moisten onion. sliced onion. Moisten with 2 or 3 tableAdd a a sliced leaf. Add bay leaf. bay this hare in in tbis the hare Leave the brandy. Leave I tablespoon tablespoon brandy, and 1 oil and spoons oil spoons hours. for 3 marinade marinade for 3 houTs. in butter butter parboil and then brown brown in and then hare parboil medium-sized hare For aa medium-sized For the from the Remove from squares. Remove into squares. cut into lean bacon, g.(7 bacon, eut oz.) lean 2AO g. 200 (7 oz.) quartered onions. Add onions' Add 2 quartered brown 2 butter, brown same butter, pan and, in the thesame and, in pan with aa stirring with (3 tablespoons) flour. Cook, Cook, stirring tablespoons) fiour. 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 2 golden colour. colouris aa golden flour is the flour until the spoon until wooden wood en spoon the in the them in Brown them dried. Brown pieces of well dried. hare, well of hare, the pieces Add the Add just to cover red wine wine just enough red with enough Moisten with roux, stirring. stirring. Moisten roux, to coyer (q.v.), to has been been garni(q.v.), to wruch which has bouqtet garni Addaa bouquet the hare. hare. Add the for slowly for pan and simmerslowly and simmer the pan garlic. Coyer Cover the ofgarlic, clove of added aaclove added hour. to 1I hour. 45minutes minutes to 45 of skin skin fragments of offany any fragments Scrape off hare.Scrape piecesof of hare. Drain the the pieces Drain put in in andput sauoepanand out the the saucepan them.Clean Cleanout to them. clinging 10 or bone bone clinging or 24 and24 onions braised on 24small small braised bacon, 24 thefcied fried bacon, Add the thehare. hare. Add ions and the the tothe themarinade marinade to Add the butter.Add inbutter. tossedin smallmushrooms mushrooms tossed smaU

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HARE HARE
pour over cooking slock. stock.Slrain Strainand andpour pan overIbe the hare. hare. Co Cover thepan eooking ver the and cook cook in inaamoderale moderateoyen oven for for about about 45 45 minutes. minutes. and A few few minutes minutes before beforeserving, serving, add add the thechopped liver to chopped liver to the the A Thicken the civet.Thicken thesauce saucewith with the thehare's hare'sblood blood mixed mixed with with 3 3 civet. or 4 4 tablespoons tablespoons fresh freshcream. cream. or Garnish with with sliees slices of of bread bread cut cut into into the the shape shapeof ofhearts, hearts, Gamish fried in in but butter. 1er. fried Civetof of lIare hare au au chaudron. chaudron. CIVET osLIVRE crvrT DE uivRE AU AUCHAUDRONcHAUDRoN Civet Prepared in in the the same same way way as as Civet Civet of of hare, hare, except except that that the the Prepared hare is pot hanging cooked in in a is cooked a pOl hanging frorn from a a hook hook in in the the chimney chimney hare of an an open open wood wood tire. fire. Also, Also, the the sauce sauce is is thickened thickened with with of kneaded butter (4 oz., butter and and flour g. (4 flour -- 100 100 g. oz, -}* cup) cup) butter butter and and 2 2 kneaded (3 tablespoons) tablespoons (3 tablespoons) flour young hare. flour for for a a young hare. tablespoons Garnish witb with blanched, blanched, coarsely coarsely diced pork diced belly belly of of pork Garnish browned in in butter, butter, and and small small onions. onions. browned Civef of of hare hare la flamande. i la flamande. CIVET crvET DE or LIEVRE rGvne A LA LA FLAMANDE FLAMANDE Civet pieces of Brown pieces hare in of hare in butter. butter. Sprinkle Sprinkle wilh with 2 2 lablespoons tablespoons -- Brown (3 tablespoons) /lour, flour, and and cook cook for for a a few few seconds, seconds, stirring stirring (3 tablespoons) with a a wooden woode,n spoon. spoon. with. (lf pints, generous Moisten with generous quart) with 1 I litre litre (1 quart) red red wine wine to to ~ pints, Moisten which has has been added the the liver liver rubbed been added rubbed through through a a sieve, sieve, the the which ($ pint, pint, seant blood, and and 2 dl. G 2 dl. scant cup) cup) vinegar. vinegar. Season Season with with salt salt blood, pepper. Add (l oZ.,2 g. (1 and pepper. Add 25 25 g. o2.,2 tablespoons) tablespoons) brown brown sugar sugar and and and garni(q.v.). large bouquet a large bouquet garni Cover, and and cook cook for for 12 12 minutes. minutes. a (q.v.). Coyer, 4 on onions Add 4 finely sliced sliced and and tossed tossod in in butter. butter. Complete Complete the the Add ions finely cooking in in the the oyen, pan covered. keeping the oven, keeping the pan covered. cooking pieces of When the the pieces of hare hare are put are cooked, cooked, drain, drain, dry, dry, and and put When pan. Sieve thern in in a a frying frying pan. Sieve the the sauce sauce with pour with the the onions, onions, pour them over the the hare hare and simmer for for a and simmer a few few minutes. minutes. over Surround the the civet civet with with sliees slices of of bread cut into into the the shape shape Surround bread cut jelly. of hearts, hearts, fried frid in in butter butter and and spread spread with with redcurrant redcurrant jelly. of Civet of of hare hare i la la Iyollllaise. lyonnaise. CIVET crvET DE nr LIVRE riivns A LA ra LYONryoNCivet NArs Proceed as for ordinary as for ordinary Civet Civet of of hare, hare, replacing replacing the the - Proceed NAISE mushrooms chestnuts eooked by cbestnuts cooked in in stock stock and and browned. mushrooms by browned. pn r$vns Harre cutlets CTELETrES c6rsrrrrgs DE There are are three Hare cutlets. L!F.VRE - There three preparing different ways of hare cutlets. different ways of preparing hare cutlets. l. Make croquette forcemeat 1. Make a a croquette forcemeat using using scraps scraps of of hare, hare, mushrooms mushrooms and and truffies, truffies, blended blended with with a a thick thick brown brown or or white Shape into white sauce. sauce. Leave Leave to 10 cool. cool. Shape into cutlets, cutlets, and and cook cook in in clarified clarified butter. butter. Serve Serve with with a a game game sauce. sauce. 2. quarter of of 2. Chop Chop finely finely the the raw raw flesh /lesb of of a a hare. hare. Add Add a a quarter its its weight weight of of bread, bread, soaked soaked and and squeezod squeezed dry, dry, and and the the same same quantity quantity of of butter. butter. Season Season well. weIl. Shape Shape the the mixture mixture into into cutlets. eullets. Flour Flour them them and and fry fry in in clarified clarificd butter. butter. Serve Serve with with Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE) SAUCE) based based on on conconcentrated centrated game game stock. stock. 3. 3. Using Using raw raw hare, hare, make make a a forcemeat foreemeat with wilh bread bread boiled boiled to to a a pulp, mou Ids and and poach. poach. pulp, and and butter. butter. Fill Fil! buttered butlered cutlet cutlet moulds Serve of bread bread fried fried in in butter. butter. Garnish Garnish to to taste. taste. Serve on on pieces pieces of Pour Pour over over therr them a a brown brown or or white white sauce sauce based based on on conceneoncengame stock. trated trated game stock. Fillets FlLETS oE DE utvnE LIVRE - Fillet Fillet a a raw raw saddle saddle of of Fillets of of hare. hare. FrLErs hare hare so so that Ihat the the meat meat comes cornes away away in in long long slices. slices. Remove Remove the the tendons. tendons. Interlard Interlard with with best best lardoons. lardoons. Season Season and and put put the the fillets fillets in in a a baking baking dish. dish. Pour Pour melted melted butter butter and and a a little little brandy brandy over over them them and and bake bake in in a a moderate moderate oven. oyen. Serve of bread bread fried fried in in butter. butter. Garnish Garnish Serve each each fillet fillet on on a a slice slice of according according to to the the recipe reeipe used. used. Mask Mask with with a a sauce sauce suitable suitable for for ground game. ground game. The The filets filets mignons, mignons, the the slender slender strips strips of of meat meat inside inside the the saddle, ean be be prepared prepared in in the the same same way way as as the the larger larger fillets. fiUets. sadd le, can Usually, Usually, however, however, they they are are left left with with the the larger larger fillets. fi.lIets. GarGarnishes hare are nishes and and sauces sauces for for Saddle Saddle of ofhare are suitable suitable for for fillets. fillets. In ln some sorne restaurants, restaurants, special special enfiies entres are are made made with wilh fillets fillets ofhare. of bare. They They are are folded folded into into crescent crescenl shapes shapes and and cooked cooked as as indicated indicated above. above. They Theyare arethen then presented presented on onaafoundation foundation of of Mousseline Mousselineforcemeat forcemeat (see (see FORCEMEAT) FORCEMEAT) made made from from the the remaining remainingmeat meat of ofthe the hare, hare, and and served served with with garnishes garnishes such such
448 448
asFinancire, Finan cib r e,Prigourdine, (seeGARNISHES). P b r ig our dine, Rossini, Ro s s ini,etc. etc.(see GARNI SHES). as All Ihese these entres, enfiees, whicb which are are in in the grande cuisine, therealm realmof ofgrande cuisine,are AU are served with with Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce (see SAUCE), sauce(see SAUCE), based based on served on conconcentrated stock stock made madefrom from the the bones bones and and trimmings trimmings of of the the centrated hare. hare. Filleb of of hare hare Ill! enchaud-froid. chaud-froid. f1LETS FTLETS DE or LIVRE rdvne EN Fillets EN CHAUDcHAUDFRoID -- Stud Stud the the fillets fillets with with trumes. truffies. Fold Fold into into the theshape shape of FROID of crescents. Sim Simmer in Madeira Madeira and and leave leave to tocool. cool. Mask Mask with crescenlS. mer in with aa brown or or white white Chaud-froid Chaud-froid sauce (ser-,SAUCE) sauce (see SAUCE) based brown based on on concentratd stock. stock. concentrated Decorate with with truffies, trufres, the the whites whites of of hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs eggs or Decorate or jelly and garnish. Glaze jelly other garnish. Glaze with with jelly pour over and pour over clear other clear jelly flavoured with with Madeira Madeira or or sorne some other other heavy heavy wine. wine. flavoured Fillets of of bare hare in in cream. cream. FILETS FTLETs DE os LIVRE uivRE A LA ra CRME Fillets cnirr,re -Interlard the the fillets. fillets. Sleep Steep Ihem them for for 1 I hour hour in in a a marinade of marinade of Interlard pepper and brandy, oil, oil, salt, salt, pepper and spices. spices. Proceed Proceedas asfor brandy, for Saddle Saddle of of (q.v.). hare d ['allemande I'allemande (q.v.). hare pn LIVRE Fillets of hare Il la Llcullus. of bare lacullus. FlLETS i la FTLETS DE rdvnr A LA ra LUCULrucurFillets rus -- Decorate Decorate the the fillets fillets of pickled tongue of hare hare with with pickled tongue and and LUS truffies eut cut in in the the shape shape of of cocks' cocks'combs and dipped dipped in trumes combs and in white white of egg. egg. Foid Fold Ihem them inlo into crescent crescent shapes gently in shapes and and simmr simmel gently of in and butter. butter. brandy and Drain the the fillets. fillets. Arrange Arrange them them in pastry cru in a a flaky flaky pastry crust Drain st filled with (q.v.) with a a salpicon salpicon (q. gras blended truffies and afr,foie v.) of trumes foie gras filled blended with Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce (see (see SAUCE) based based on on concentrated with game stock. stock. game Fillets of of bare hare sauted saut6ed with with tmffles. trufres. ALETS FTLETS DE on LIVRE rdvnn Fillets slurEs AUX AUX TRUFFES TRUFFEs the fillets into sliees. slices. Season, Season, and SAUTEs - Cut the brown Ihem them in in butter, butter, taking taking care care that that they they keep keep their their brown pinkish pinkish colour. Drain. Toss Toss 12 truck thick strips of tfume truffie in the cooking butter, buttei Drain. so that they are barely cooked. Put these on the slices of so hare. ofhare. Pour a litlle little Madeira Madeira into into the and add add a Pour a the cooking pan pan and a few few tablespoons Demi-glace (se SAUCE) sauce (see SAUCE) based tablespoons Demi-glace sauce based on concentrated game stock. Pour over the pieces of hare. Plt6 ofhare. nr LIVRE rGvnn ahare. Pt of hare. pAr6 PT DE - Bone a hare. Set aside the breast meat, the filets mignonr mignons and and the the loins. loins. Remove the gristle gristJe from from these tbese parts parts and interlard interlard them them with with best best lardoons. lardoons. Season Season with with Spiced sa& salt (see (see SALT). SALT). Steep Steep in in a a brandy brandy marinade, of fine fine strips strips of fresh marinade, adding adding equrl equal quantities of ham (not (not smoked), fresh pork pork fat and quartered truffies. trumes. Make Make a a forcemeat with the rest rest of of the Ihe meat meat as as described described in the Game forcemeat forcemeat (see (see FORCEMEAT). FORCE MEAT). Rub the recipe for for Garne througb through a a sieve. Bind Bind with the the hare's hare's blood. blood. Grease Grease a a hinged hinged mould mould with butter. butter. Line Line with with pastry Pastry dough dough (see (see PASTRY). PASTRY). Cover Coyer the the dougb dough with with rhin thin slices of larding larding bacon. bacon. Line Line the the bottom botlom and and sides sides with with a a layer layer of of hare hare forcemeat. forcemeat. Alternate Alternate the the meats, meats, truffies, trumes. etc. etc. on this this foundafoundation tion of of forcemeat. forcemeat. Cover Coyer with with a a layer layer of of forcemeat. forcemeat. Continue Continue to to fill fill the the mould mould with with alternate alternate layers layers of of meat meat and and forcemeat, forcemeat, finishing tinishing with of forcemeat. forcemeat. Cover Cover with with a a thin thin slice sUce of of pork pork fat. fat. with a a layer layer of Put of rolled-out rolled-out pastry pastry on on top, top, pressing pressing the the edges edges of of Put a a layer layer of the the dough dough together together to to seal. seal. Flute Flute the the edges. edges. Decorate Decorate the the top top with with dough dough motifs motifs and and make make a a hole ho le in in the the middle middle to to allow allow the the steam steam to to escape escape during during baking. baking. Brush Brush with with beaten beaten egg. egg. Bake in the Ihe oven, oyen, allowing allowing 15 15 to to 20 20 minutes minutes per peT 500 500 g. g. Bake in (l (l lb.) lb.) Leave Leave the the pdtC pt to to cool cool in in the the mould. mould. When When it it is is cold cold pour pour a a few few tablespoons tahlespoons of of Madeira-flavoured Madeira-tlavoured meat meat jelly jelly into If the Ihe pdtd pt is is to to be be kept kept for for any any length length of of time, time, into it. il. If jelly. substitute substitute a a mixture mixture of ofbutter butter and and lard lard for for the thejelly. Hare Harepdti pt must must be be made made at at least least 24 24 houn hours before before serving. serving. Potted Pottedhare. hare. rrnnrNs TERRINEDE DELrtvRBLIVRE - Made Madefrom from strips stripsof ofhare, bare, porkfat,foie pork fat,foie gras, gras, trufres trumes and and hare hare stuffing, stuffing, in in the the same sameway way as asPotted Po lied&rc& duck (see (seeTERRINE). TERRINE). Roast Roastlegs legsof ofhare. hare. curssEs CUISSESos DE rGvRE LIVREndrresRTIES - Remove Remove the the tendons tendons from from a a hare's hare's legs. legs. Stud Stud with with best best larding larding bacon bacon to to form form rosettes, rosettes, and and roast roast them. them. Serve Serve with with Poiyrade Poivrade sauce sauce

HASH HASH
(see (see SAUCE) SA UCE) and Chestnut Chestnut purie pure (see CHESTNUT). CHESTNUT). Ail recipes recipes for saddle saddle of of hare hare are suitable for the legs. legs. All Saddle of of hare. hare. nAnr,n RBLE pn DE lrivnn LIVRE - For For a baron baron of of hare hare the Saddte w hale body body of of the the hare hare from the the base base of of the the neck neck to the tail tail is whole

used; but but for for the the saddle alone, alone, the the portion of of the the trunk used; wruch ends ends at the top top of of the thigh thigh is served. which is one of of the most most delicate parts of the hare. Before This is cooking it it remove all ail the thin membrane which covers the fiesh. flesh. pork fat or studded The saddle saddle is barded barded with with a thin slice slice of ofpork The with truffes. truffies. with served with Sadd le of of hare hare is is generally generally roasted roasted and and served Saddle (see Poivrade sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE) SAUCE) and and Chestnut Chestnut purie pure (see Poivrade CHESTNUT), which which are served separately. separately. CHESTNUT), I-IivRE A l'aUemande. nAsLE RBLE oe DE LIVRE L'ALLnL'ALLESaddle of hare I'allemande. MANDE - Interlard the saddle with best lardoons. Steep for 2 MANDE marinade (q.v.). hours in a raw marinade Dry the marinated vegetables vegetables in a a roasting pan. pan. Dry Put the marinated a hot oyen. oven. When saddle of hare and lay it on top. Roast in a saddle saddle is almost cooked, take take out the vegetables. Pour the the saddle pint, scant cup) marinade over over the the hare hare and 2 dl. dl. (i and add add 2 marinade $ pint, cream. cream. squeeze sorne some lemon into serving dish, squeeze Place the saddle on serving pour it over the hare. hare. Serve Serve with the cream cream sauce, strain, and pour redcurrant jelly or unsweetened apple sauce. redcurrant pn LIVRE uivnr AU Saddle of hare nAsrs DE eu hare au au chambertin. chambertin. RBLE Saddle of oven, taking CHAMBERTIN - Interlard the saddle. Roast in the oyen, cHAMBERTIN pinkish colour. care that it retains its pinkish Fry a slice of forced gratin game forceof bread and spread it with (sa FORCEMEAT). FORCEMEAT). Lay the saddle on on top. top. Garnish meat (see with mushrooms cooked in belly of of in butter, butter, small strips of belly thick pork, pork, parboiled and fried frid in butter, and truffies cut into truck (se, SAUCE), to which strips. Mask with with Chambertin Chambertin sauce (see been added. wine, have been the pan juices, diluted with red wine, pe LIVRE Saddle of hare, roast. rSvRE RTI nOn Interlard the nAsr,n DE roast. RBLE - Interlard saddle. Roast a spit, spit, for 18 l8 ta to 20 minutes, or on a Roast in a a hot oyen oven for allowing an extra 2 2 to to 5 5 minutes. Garnish witha lemon. Make Make of watercress and halfa lemon. bunch ofwatercress with a bunch a cut with with a a slices of lemon and beetroot cut a border of alternate slices fiuted thin or a a thin diluted cooking cooking juices or with the the diluted knife. Serve with fluted knife. Poivrade sauce (see SA UCE). SAUCE). Hare hare in in the the os LIVRE rItvRE - Made with with hare Hare souffl. soufl6. SOUFFL sourrr,6 DE (see SOUFFL). same way as SOUFFLE). souffie (see as Chicken souffl

Crush the paws paws of of the hare hare and remove rem ove the the tendons. tendons. InterInterlard the fillets and legs with with best lardoons. lardoons. (7 oz.) g. (7 to this 200 g. Chop the liver, heart and lungs. Add Add ta g. (4 oz.) fresh pork fat, gras and fresh pork fat, 100 and 100 g. (4 raw goose./oie goosefoie gras 100 g. (4 oz.) bread I tablespoon dry, 1 squeezed dry, bread soaked in stock and squeezed until tender tender and chopped onion cooked very slowly in butter butter until (5 oz.) garlic, 150 g. (5 150 g. very little left cool, a a very left to to cool, little pounded pounded garlic, parsley. Bind pinch of Bind this this of chopped parsley. a pinch chopped trufres trufHes and a Season weil. well. stuffing with the blood of the hare. hare. Season up the the skin skin so so as as to to Sew up mixture. Sew Stuff the hare with this mixture. Stuff in a a little little white white and truss the hare. Braise in hold the stuffing in and frequently. Brown Brown the the hare wine for about 2 hours, basting frequently. a it. Add to the braising stock a and untie it. in the oyen. oven. Drain and (see SA sauce (see SAUCE) based on few Demi-glace sauce UCE) based few tablespoons Demi-glace (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) and 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 concentrated game stock and (5 oz.) g. (5 or diced oz.) shredded or and add add 150 g. Armagnac. Armagnac. Strain, and the hare. truffes. Pour this this sauce s.uce over the truffies. in red wine. oftsn braised braised in This dish is often rdvnr TOFF frorse A LA rA' perigurrdine (cold). LIVRE hare la la prigourdine Stufred hare Stuffed pEnrcounorxn slitting it it along the back before a hare, slitting PRIGOURDINE - Bone a Draw remains intact. intact. Draw drawing it, so that the skin of the belly remains drawing shoulders. it and cut off the legs and shoulders. Keep the and blood. blood. Keep heart, kidneys and the liver, liver, heart, Set aside aside the Set prevent it it from from tablespoon vinegar to prevent a bowl, with 1 tablespoon blood in a clotting. c1otting. some and shoulders, shoulders, sorne the thighs and the boned boned meat meat of the Using the Using pork fat, fat, make make aGame a Game forcemeat and pork veal, fresh fresh pork and lean veal, quarter of of (see FORCEMEAT). of its its weight weight of this a a quarter to this Add to FORCEMEAT). Add (see (see FORCEMEAT), from the the made from gratin forcemeat FORCEMEAT), made d gratin forcemeat (see quantity of equal quantity of an equal of the hare with an liver, heart and kidneys of and 2 2 well. Add Add spices spices and Season weil. with 2 2 eggs. eggs. Season raw foie Bind with raw foie gras. Bind (3 tablespoons) brandy. tablespoons) brandy. tablespoons (3 tablespoons (see SALn and sprinkle sprinkle salt (see SALT) and Spiced salt hare with with Spiced Season the the hare Season top. In In the the on top. a layer layer of of stuffing stuffing on Put a a little little brandy. brandy. Put with with a veal of lean lean veal thin strips strips of lay alterna alternate stuffing lay middle of of the the stuffing middle te thin grat seasoned with seasoned with of foie thin strips strips of browned in butter, butter, thin browned in foie gras pork fat fat of pork lardoons of with brandy, brandy, lardoons spiced spiced salt salt and and moistened moistened with (or blanched a with a pieces of pork) and truffie. Coyer Cover with and pieces of trufHe. (or blanched salt salt pork) and stuffing. layers of meat and stuffing. of meat layer of Add further further layers layer of stuffing. stuffing. Add it in in a a c10th cloth sew it it up. up. Wrap Wrap it shape and and sew Fold the the hare hare into into shape Fold (q.v.). Cook in a a strong strong Cook in of a a ballottine ballottine (q.v.). and and tie tie it it in in the the shape shape of be should be This stock stock should Madeira. This game stock flavoured with with Madeira. game stock fiavoured the trimmings of of the prepared in bones and and trimmings the bones in advance, using the prepared advance, using (or bacon pork skin rinds) and and fresh pork skin (or bacon rinds) hare, knuckle ofveal, ofveal, fresh hare, a a knuckle foot. calf's foot. a boned and and blanched blanched calf's a boned gently for hours. When for about l! hours. it When it about I! hare very very gently Simmer Simmer the the hare put it in the it, then it back back in the cloth, cloth, then put is cooked, and unwrap unwrap it, is cooked, drain drain and Next day, day, unwrap unwrap a weight. weight. Next under a wrapping wrapping it it tightly. tightly. Cool Cool under jelly crotons. jelly. Surround crofitons. with jelly Surround with the the hare. hare. Glaze Glaze with with jelly. p6rigourdine en cabessal or or chabessal. chabessal. m cabessal Stuffed hare la la prigourdine Stufrd hare pfuicouRDINE EN EN CABESSAL, cABEssAL, CHABESSAL CHABESSAL LIVRE rrtvnn FARCI r,c,Rct A LA PRIGOURDINE pork and and ham, harn" seasoned seasoned veal, fresh fresh pork Stuff a hare of veal, fillet of Stuffa hare with with fiUet garlic. Sew the skin. skin. pepper, spices, Sew up up the shallots and and garlic. with spices, shallots with salt, salt, pepper, into aa ring, ring, the the red wine. Tied into in red wine. Tied Bard hare and and braise braise in Bard the the hare (The cabessal was cabessal was hare essai or or chabessal. chabessal. (The to be be en en cab cabessal hare is is said said to heads to to wore on on their their heads the which women women wore folded ring ring of of c10th cloth which the folded jars of pails or support or jars of water.) water.) support pails garlic and and with garlic liver with the liver Bone Pound the hare. Pound Bone the the braised braised hare. little blood and and aa little blend Add the the hare's hare's blood the sauce. sauce. Add blend it it into into the vinegar. vinegar. popular in in preparing hare leveret is is popular This hare or or leveret of preparing This method method of region. Prigord, Aveyron region. and in in the the Aveyron P6rigord, and

i n

17th preparing hare for preparing hare i la la royale royale I 7th century century terrine terrine for

Stuffed (P6rigord p6rigourdine or la royale royale (Prigord or i la la prigourdine hare i la Stuffd hare pfuicounplNE, cookery). LA, ROYALE RoYALE -A LA A LA u PRIGOURDINE, rGvnE FARCI renq cookery). LIvRE high-sounding ln the high-sounding this dish dish bears bears the region this In the the Prigord P6rigord region title royale. title of liivre d la la royale. of livre When and set the blood blood and set it it hare, collect collect aU all the the hare, When drawing drawing the aside be used used later. later. which wiU will be the stuffing, stuffing, which aside ta to bind bind the
449 M9

DE MOUTON MouroN -- Mutton Mutton HARICOT rHmcor DE MUTTON. HARICOT HARICOT OF OF MUTTON. (See MUTTON.) potatoes. (See MUTTON.) stew and potatoes. turnips and stew made made with with turnips

HASH. made from from left-overs left-overs of of hash is is usually usually made HAcHIs -- A A hash HASH. HACHIS or shell-fish, shell-fish, poultry, fish fish or scraps pork, veal, veal, poultry, scraps of beef, mutton, of beef, mutton, pork, and prepared in in various various ways. ways. is prepared and is

HASH HASH

nif themeat meat verysmall, small,rather ratherthan thanmince minceit. it.In Intrus thisway, way, Dice the itwill willtaste taste better and look more appetising. French hashis it better look more appetising. French hashes are usually usually blended blended with withwhite white or orbrown brownsauces. sauces.Hashes Hashes are made from left-overs of roast or pot-roasted meat must not made from left-overs of roast or meat must not boil after after the thesauce saucehas has been been added, but butshould shouldonly onlybe be boil wanned up upover overaalow low flame. flame. Hashes Hashes made madefrom from boiled boiledor or warmed braisedmeat meatshould shouldsimmer simmer on onthe thestove stovefor foraatime. time. braised Hashes piledinside are piled insideaaborder border of ofDuchess Duchess pOlaloes potatoes(see (see Hashes are POTATOES), orsprin~Jed sprinkled with withbreadcrumbs breadcrumbsand andbrowned, browned, or served served in inaa border of pilaf or ofpilaf orrisotto. risotto. or Sometimes hash hash is is served servod in piedish inaapie garnish with dish as asaagamish with Sometimes hard-boiled, poached poachodor orcoddled coddled eggs. eggs. hard-boiled, Boitd beef beef bash hash1. I. HACHIS H,lcHrs DE DE BOEUF BoEUF- - Dice Dice very veryfinely finely Boiled (18 oz., S.m g. (18 oz., 4 4 cups) boiled boiled beef beef scraps. Bind Bind with withH l| dl. dl. 500 Demi-glace sauce sauce (se S-eUCf), cover Q pint, 3 cup) Ueml--f!lI'lCe cover-and and bring to to the boil. Cook in in the the oven oven for 25 ?Sminutes. minutes. Stir Stir from from time to to time time and and add add aa few few tablespoons tablespoons demi-glace demi-glaceif rfthe the time sauce appears appears too too truck. thick. sauce Boild beer beef hash haslr n. II. HACHIS H.lcnrs DE DE BOEUF BoEUF -- Slowly cook 2 2 Boi1ed (3 tablespoons) chopped onion tablespbons (3 onion in in 1I tat,les.poon tablespoon tablespoons butter until until very tender. Sprinkle with with 1 I tablespoon tablespoon flour. butter Brown. Add Add 2 2 dl. (~ pint, scant scant cup) cup) veal veal stock, stock, season season and and $ pint, Brown. bring to to the the boil, boil, stirring stirring aIl all the the time. time. Simmer Simmer for for 15 15minutes. minutes. bring Dice the the boiled boiled beef beef very finely finely and ard add add to to the the mixture. mixture. Dice Proceed as as indicated indicated in previous recipe. in the previous Proceed proCtu?id beer beef hash ha$ 1. I. HACHIS nic.curs DE DE BOEUF BoEUF A L'INDIENNE r'rNorsNNE -- ProCurried ceed as as for for Roast Roast beef (see below). beef hash hash (see below). Bind Bind the the diced diced meat meat ceed with Curry (see, SAUCE). Curry sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Serve Serve in in a a border border of of rice. rice. with Serve with with curry sauce. Serve pr BOEUF Currid beef ha$ n. U. HACHIS HAcHrs DE noeuF A L'INDIENNE I'TNoleNNE -- Cook Cook Curried (3 tablespoons) 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) chopped chopped onion onion in in 1 I tablespoon tablespoon 2 butter until until very very tender. tender. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with 1 I teaspoon teaspoon curry iurry butter po-wder and and 1 I tabtespoon tablespoon flour. flour. Add ($ pint, Add2 pint, scant dl. (t scant cup) cup) powder 2 dl. white stock stock or or broth. broth. Mix Mix weIl. well. Cook Cook for for 15 15 minutes. minutes. white Add the the finely diced diced beef. beef. Serve Senre in in a a border border of of rice rice with with Add (se, SAUCE). Curry sauce sauce (see Beef haslr witb widr herbs. herbs. HACHIS HAcHrs DE DE BOEUF BoEUF AUX Arlx FINES FrNEs HERBESHERBEs Proceod as as for for Roast (se below). Roast beef beef hash hash (see below). Just Just before Proceed serving sprinkle with with 1 I tablespoon tablespoon of chopped parsley and and 1 I serving sprinkle tablespoon chopped chervil. chervil. Boef hrsh i la soEUF i LA HONGROISE HoNcRorsE HACHIS DE BOEUF la hongroise. HAcHrs Proceed (see below). Bind Roast beef beef hash (see Bind the the diced Proceed as as for for Roast meat SAUCE). meat with with Hungariot sguce (see (see SA UCE). Bed DE BOEUF BoEUF A L'ITALIENNE L'rr,q.Llsl.rNg Beer hash bash i I'italienne. HAcHrs HACHIS DE Proceod (see beJow). below). Bind with ltalian Proceed as as for for Roast Roast beef beef hash (see sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). sauce (se Bef Beer hrsh basb i la la languedocienne. languedocienne. HAcHrs HAGHIS os DE soruF BOEUF A r.a LA LANGTJEDocTENNE (se Roast beef hash hash (see LANGUEDOCIENNE - Proceed Proceed as as for for Roast below). below). Add Add I 1 tablespoon tablespoon chopped chopped parsley parsley and a little grated garlic. garlic. Serve Serve on on a a layer of of sliced aubergines saut6ed sauted in in oil oil or butter. butter. Smooth Smooth the surface of of the the hash. Surround with a very Tomato fondue fondue (see (see FONDUE). Sprinkle with very thick thick Tomato breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and cheese. chee se. Pour Pour melted mehed butter over over it it and brown. brown. Beef Beef hash hash i Ia la lyonnaise. H.lcHrs HACHIS DE DE BoEUF BOEUF A ra LA ryoNLYONNAIsE NAISE - Proceed Proceed as as for Beef Beefhash hash d cl la la languedocienne, languedocienne, binding binding the the diced diced meat meat with with Lyonnaise Lyonnaise sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Serve Serve with with a a border border of ofDuchess Duchesspotatoes potatoes (see (see pOTATOES). POT A TOES). Decorate Decorate the the top with with friod fried onion onion rings. rings. Becf Beer ha$ bash i la Parmentier. Pannentier. rrlc,cnrs HACHIS DE DE BoEUF BOEUF i r-,c. LA pARPARMENTIER MENTIER - Proceed Proceed as as for for Roast Roast beef beefhash hash (see (see below). below). Serve Serve in in large, large, partly partly scooped-out scooped-out baked baked potatoes. potatoes. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. Pour Pour melted melted butter butter over; over; brown brown in in oven. oven. Beef Beerhash hasb with with poached eggs. HAcHrs HACHIS DE DE BoEUF BOEUF Ar.rx AUX oEUFs OEUFS pocsfsPOCHS - Proceed as as for for Boiledbeefhash beef hash II. Il. Garnish Garnishwith with well-drained weIl-drained poached poached eggs. eggs. If If desired, desired, cover cover with with Tomato Tomato sauce sauce (ser', (see SAUCE). SA UCE).
450 450

poloNArspolonrise.HACHIS Bedhash la HAcHrsDE DE BoEUF r-a Boo bash ila polonaise. BOEUF A LA POLONAISE Proceedas asfor forRoast (see Roastbeef beef hash(see below).Garnish Garnish with Proceed hash below). witb poached eggsand and Tomatosauce (seSAUCE). sauce(see SAUCE). poacbed Tomato ponruBcef hffih la h portugaise.HACHIS HAcHrsDE DE BoEUF r.lPORTUBeer BOEUF A LA cArsn -Proceed Proceedas (see as for Roastbeefhash beef hash(see below). Bindwith with GAISEbelow). Bind (seeSAUCE). Tonutosauce sauce(see SAUCE). Tomato Coverthe thebottom bottomof ofan anovenproof ovenproofearthenware earthenware dishwith Cover dish with slicesof oftomato tomatotossed tossedin inbutter butteror oroil. oil. Spreadtbe thebash hash slices over over thetomatoes. tomatoes.Cover Coverwith witha afurtber furtherlayer layer of tomatoescooked the cooked thesa intbe same way.Sprinkle Sprinklewith withbreadcrumbs breadcrumbsand andseason in me way. seasonwith with garlic.Pour touchof ofgarlic. Pourmelted meltedbutter butteror oroil oilover overthe aatouch thetop and topand brownin inthe theoven. oven. brown Befbash hashwith potatoes. HACHIS wittpotatoes. HAcHrsDE DEBOEUF BoEUFEN Beef BORDURE EN BoRDURE Proceed as asfor (seebelow). forRoast Roastbeefhash beef hash(see below). Proceed pOTAPiletbe hashin thebasb inaaborder borderof ofDuchess Duchess pOlatoes potatoes(see (seePOT APile TOES). Sprinkle Sprinkle with with breadcrumbs grated cbeese. breadcrumbsand andgrated cheese. Brush theborder borderwitb withbeaten pouron beatenegg, egg,pour onmehed meltedbutter butterand and brown. brown. Befhasb hsshwith with masbed potatoes.HACHIS mashod potatoes. Beer HAcHrs DE usBOEUF sotsuFALA r.A, prnfs DE poMMEs DE DEPOMMES DETERRE rERRE- Mix g.(lI oz.) PURE Mix300 300g. oz.)2 cups) etcups) ponto finely diced diced boiled (7oz., boiled beef beefwith with 200 g.(7 finely 200g. oz.,scant scantcup) cup)Potato puree (see (see POT POTATOES). puree ATOES). Season. Season.Arrange Arrange in inaabuuered buttered ovenproof earthenware earthenware dish. dish. Cover ovenproof Cover with with aathin thin layerof ofthe the potatoes.Smooth potatoes. Smooth the the surface, surface, sprinkle witb with hr~"rl{'rl1lrnl~" breadcrumbs and grated cheese, pour melted cheese, pour and melted butterover overand andbrown. brown. This bash hash can prepared in can he be prepared me way inthe the sa puree of same waywith with pure of white or or red red haricot haricot beans, white beans, lentils lentils or peas. orsplit split peas. Roast bOO beef basb. hash. HACHIS Roast HAcHrs DE DE BOEUF BoEuF - Dice Dioe the the beef beef very finely. Bind Bind with with boiling finely. boiling Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce (see, SAUCF). sauce (see Heat in in a a double double saucepan saucepan and Heat andserve semein inaa piedish. dish. porssoNsFish basb. hish. HACHIS HAcHrs DE - Use Fish DE POISSONS Use finely diced diccd piecesof of cooked fish fish (cod, turbot, cooked turbot brill, brill, sole sole or or salmon). salmon). Bindwith with vegetable-based Velout, Velouti, Bchamel, Bichamel, or or any any other other sauce sauce suitable for fish (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Fish basb hash is Fish is often used pastry boats, used as as a a filling filling for for pastry boats, large large or or (q.v.), tartlets, small vol-au-vent vol-au-vent (q.v.), small tartlets, etc. etc. porr, - Made ground gsme. HACHIS Hash Hash of of ground HAcHrs DE DE GlBIERS crBrERs DE DE POIL - Made from left-overs from left-overs ofbraised venison, venison, or or roast roast roebuck, roebuck, deer deer or or goat. Bind wild goat. wild Bind with with a a brown brown stock stock to to which which ESjrJa~~nole Espagnole game essence, sauce with sauce with game essence, Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sAuce or or n<C'UIOua, Madeira, has has (see SAUCE). been been added added (see SAUCE). Hasb - Made Hash of of winged winged game" HACHIS HAcHrs DE DE GmIERS GrBrERs DE DE PLUME rLUMEMade from from left-overs left-overs of game, game, braised, braised, pot-roasted or roast (pheasant, hazel grouse, paU .lUI","'J. These are cooked in hazel grouse, partridge). white stock which which is is thickened thickened with Allemande. Allemande, Bchamel Bichamel or or Velout Veloutd sauce (see, SAUCE), whicb sauce (see has been which bas bee,n boiled boiled down down with concentrated game game stock. stock. Tbey They can can also also be be cooked cooked in in brown stock, to to wruch which Demi-glace, Demi-glace, Madeira or or Salmi Salmi sauce sauce (see SAUCE) are added. This hash hash is most ,",VIIUJJI!VI'UJ commonly used used as a filling for vol-auas a vent,pies or tartlets, and can also be be served served on on friod bread. Lobster and Lobster ad shellfisb shellfish bash. hash. HACHIS necnn DE DE HOMARD HoMARD - Made Made from lobster lobster or or any from any other other similar similar shellfish, shellfish, finely finely diced, diced, mixed with warmed up and mixed with Velout, Velouti, Bchamel Bicharnel or or any other other sauce suitable for fish and sbellfish shellfish served served hot hot (see SAUCE). Shellfish hash is used used as as a filling for pastry a filling for pastry boats, large or small vol-au-vent, tartlets, etc. etc. Mutton or or lad lamb hash. basb. slcsrs HACHIS DE DE MouroN, MOUTON, D'AGNEAU Muttm D'AcNEAU Use - Use roast, braised or boiled boiled left-overs of or mutton. roast, of lamb lamb or mutton. Ali All beef are suitable for mutton or lamb hasb. for recipes for beef suitable for mutton or lamb hash. HACHIS DE poRcPORC - Made Made from from left-overs left-overs of of roast, roast, Porkhash. HAcHTsDE braised or or boiled boiled pork. Use Use a a suitable suitable recrpe recipe for for beef beefbash braised if a hash ifa brown sauce is usod, used, or or use use a a white white saue sauce and and follow follow the the brown for Veal Veal hash hash d I'allemande. l'allemande. recipe for basb. H.,lcwrs HACHIS DE DE vor,Arr,rx VOLAILLE Use left-over pieces of of Poultry hash. - Use left-over braised, stewed, stewed, pot-roasted or or roast roast poultry. This dish is braised, usually made made with a a white white sauce, sauce, as as described de~;cr:ibed in in the the recrpe usually Veal hash hash d I'allemodq l'allemande, but but it it may may also also be be made made with for Veal for

(ll

H'AZEL GROUSE HAZEL

brown stock as described described in the recipes for beef hash. Poultry hash Creatn or basb ri blanc bas Allemande, Bicharnel, Bchamel, Cream Velouti Velout sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) added. added. It lt must must be be heated heated in a
double saucepan. saucepan. a wbite Poultry hash, white or brown sauce is used, is bash, whether wbetber a often often scrved served with poached poached or coddled eggs. It lt can be used as a small vol-au-vent, a filling filling for for large large or Or small vol-au-vent, tartlets tartIets and and other pastry cases, cases, and also as as a a stuffing for artichoke articboke hearts or These are mushrooms. mushroorns. Tbese are sprinkld sprinkled with with breadcrumbs and browned, browned, and are served as a garnish gamish for main dishes. Sweetbread Sweetbread (veal or hmb) lamb) hash. HAcHIS HACHIS DE DE RIs RIS DE DE vEAU, VEAU, D'AcNEAU sauce. D'AGNEAU - This can be made with a white or brown sauce. Dice the tbe sweetbreads sweetbreads very small and proceed proceed as as for veal veal or poultry poultry hash. hasb. Veal hash. HAcHIS of braised, HACHIS DE vEAU VEAU - Left-over pieces of stewed, stewed, pot-roasted pot-roasted or or roast roast veal veal can can be be prepared prepared in in a brown sauce sauce like like a beef beef hash or in a white sauce as below. Veat Veal hash hash i I'allemande. l'allemande. HAcHIs HACHIS DE VEAU A L'AITEMANDE L'ALLEMANDEDice the tbe veal very finely. finely. Bind with witb Allemande sauce (se, (see SAUCE). Heat in a double saucepan. saucepan. Serve Serve in in a pie pie dish disb or, if if desired,in desired,in a pie crust crust or vol-au-vent. vol-au-vent. Vesl Veal ha$ hasb t la bchamel. bchamel. n.lcnrs HACHIS DE vEAU VEAU A r.l LA stcHAMEL BCHAMEL Proceed as for Yeal Veal hash d l'allemande, using Bichamel Bchamel sauce sauce Proceed (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Ved Veal hlsh hash with cream cream sruce. sauce. HAcHIs HACHIS DE vEAU VEAU A r.L LA cniim CRME Proceed as for for Veal hash d I'allemande l'allemande (q.v.), (q.v.), using Cream sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Verl Veal ha$ hash i la Mornay. Mornay. HAcHIs HACHIS DE vEAU VEAU MoRN,r,v MORNAY - Bind the hash bash with witb Bichamel Bchamel sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Serve Serve in a border border of Duchess potatoes with Mornay potatoes (see (see POTATOES). POT ATOES). Cover Coyer with sauce (se (see SAUCE). Sprinkle with grated cheese, cheese, pour pour on melted butter, and brown. meltod remaining at 70C. way, the temperature ternperature drops very slowly, remaining 70'C. (158'F.) even after five or six hours or, witb with the most up-to(l58F.) date equipment" evn longer. In this this way, food can be cooked equipment, even without supervision and and without the use use of fuel without fuel once it has bee,n brought to the been brought tbe boil.

}IAZEL also known known as as wood HAZEL GROUSFGROUSE. cELlNorrE GELINOTTE - Bird also grouse and rufrod Hazelgrouse grouse ruffied grouse. Hazel grouse lives in woods. woods. There are two species, one a are a native of Europg Europe, the other of Asia. grouse, which The common is on hazel grouse, common hazel on sale sale in in France The which is during the winter months, is a about the size size of a a partbe win ter montbs, a bird bird about tridge, in colour, is tridge, whose is speckled whose plumage, reddish in speckled with brown, brown, black, white and grey.

Hazel grouse

grous, which was once The hazel grouse, Tbe very common in France, once very especially especially in Alsace, the Ardennes and the Pyr6n6es, Pyrnes,is is rarer nowadays, and and the tbe greater number of hazel grouse grouse sold sold in France come from The best frorn Russia Russia and are frozen. Tbe come and are best come

HATEREAU HTEREAU - Old French word word for little little balls balls of of pork liver, Iiver, similal similar to to gayettes gayelles (q.v.). Nowadays, Nowadays, this is the name given given to a a hot bot hors-d'euvre hors-d'uvre or a light main course course of of small pieces of of food, dipped in egg and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and fried, fried, skewered skewered and and coated with with a
sauce. sauce.

Vologda, Archangel Arcbange! and Kazan. from Vologda" and Kazan. The meat meat is white and tender, but tastes tas tes rather strongly strongly of fir tir cones, which sorne find unpleasant. This flavour some people find can be made less strong by soaking the bird in milk for sorne some cooking. time before cooking. (q.v.) are All Ail the tbe recipes recipes given for partridge (q.v.) are suitable for hazel hazel grouse. grouse. grouse i l'allemande. cELINorrE GELINOTIE L'ALLEMANDE Hazel gnxrse A t'AtLHr,rANDE Truss Truss a hazel grouse. grouse. Season. Season. Brown Brown the bird bird in I 1 tablespoon butter in a covered covered saucepan. When it is three-parts cooked, butter tbem into thin strips. Put drain, remove the breasts and cut them them back on the tbe bird, taking taking care to restore restore it to its original shape. shape. Cover Coyer the tbe hazel bazel grouse grouse with Bichamel Bchamel sauce sauce (see SAUCE) mixed mixed with with sour sour cream. cream. Sprinkle with breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, and pour Sprinkle with little melted melted butter. butter. Let Let it it brown brown a a little ~jttle in the tbe oven. oyen. Serve on a little Serve with witb Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Casserole of hazel hazel grorse grouse i la la polonrise. polonaise. cELrNorrE GELINOTTE EN r,c, LA poroNAls POLONAISE - Stuff the hazel bazel grouse with d CASSEROLE A cAssERoLE gratin gameforcemeat (see FORCEMEAT) FORCEMEA T) flavoured flavoured with I 1 gratin gmne forcemeat (see crusbed juniper juniper berries. Truss. Truss. Cook in butter in an or 2 crushed eartbenware casserole. After After removing removing the string, pour over over earthenware cup) game game stock or concentrated it 3 tablespoons (scant * .,rp) thickened veal stock and a little lemon juice. juice. Add browned browned thickened of freshly grated breadcrumbs breadcrumbs melted butter with a handful of fried in it. Chaud-froid of of hazel hazel grorse. grouse. cELINorrE GELINOTTE EN EN cHAr.iDCHAUDChaud-froid FROID - Prepared in white or brown stock, stock, as as for ChaudFRoID p ar tr idge (see froid ofpartridge (see PA PARTRIDGE). oid of RTRIDGE). fr Hazel grqrse grouse I la crCme. crme. cELINorrE GELINOTTE A ra, LA cntl,rs CRME - Wrap Ilazel larding bacon round round the hazel grouse grouse and truss it. To lessen lessen the taste taste of fir fir cones, cones, soak soak it it for for t 1 hour hour in milk before the cooking. cooking. a flameBrown the bird in 1 tablespoon butter heated in a proof proof earthenware casserole. Put the casserole in the tbe oven, oyen, oyen (220"C., (220C., 425F, uncovered. Cook in a hot oven 425"F'., Gas Mark basting frequently, frequently, for about 18 minutes. 7), basting

HATTELI,E HATTELLE or or HATTELE:TTE HTTELETTE _ - OId Old French French words for small birds, giblets, etc., roasted on on skewers. skewers. It is is derived
from hdtelet htelet or attelet allelet (skewer). (skewer). HALJNCIL HAUNCH. cMIER CIMIER - Hindquarten Hindquarters of of the ox and of certain certain animaIs. This word is applied particularly particularly to deer. wild animals. For detailed recipes see ROEBUCK ROEBUCK or VENISON. VENISON. Tbe French also also use use the tbe words gigue gigue and cuissot to The and cuissot describe describe haunch baunch of game.

HAUT-BRION - Bordeaux Bordeaux wine wine of of great great repute. repute~ The tne CMteau Chteau Haut-Brion, Haut-Brion, in in the the Pessac Pessac commune, commune, is is in in the Graves and and not the the M6doc Mdoc district. district. According to the the list Iist drawn drawn up in 1855 by the tbe Bordeaux Bordeaux Chamber Chamber of of Commerce, Commerce,
this is the only Graves wine given a 'first growth' classfficaclassification. The Tbe other first growth growtb Bordeaux Bordeaux wines are ChAteauChteauLafite, Lafite, Chdteau-MargauL Chteau-Margaux, and Chdteau-Latour. Chteau-Latour.
HA WFINCH. cRos.BEc GROS-BEC - European European seed-eating seed-eating bird. bird. It is HAWFINCH. known in France as as gros-bec, gros-bec, casse-noix casse-noix or or pinson pinson royal.lt royal. It is known usually roasted. roasted. usually HA WKSBILL TURTLE. cAREr CARET - Aquatic Aquatic tortoise, native HAWKSBTTT.TLJRTLE. wann American and and Indian seas. seas. It lt furnishes fumishes the of the wann tortoisesbell of commerce; its flesh fiesh is not worth valuable tortoiseshell eating but but its its eggs are highly higbly esteemed. eatmg HAY BOX BOX or or FUELLESS FUELLESS COOKER. COOKER. rr,r.lnmrn MARMITE Nonv6NORVHAY GIENNE - An An ordinary ordinary pot, when when its its contents contents have have beeF beep cIENNE

brought to the tbe boil, boil, is enclosed in an an insulating box, embrought bedded in materials materials which which are poor poor heat heat conductors. conductors. In this bedded 451

HAZELNUT HAZELNUT
Remove the the bird from the bird from the casserole, casserole, take dake off offthe string and and Remove the string put it larding bacon, bacon, and and put it back back in in the the casserole. casserole. Pour Pour over over it it larding (6 tablespoons, I dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, seant scant j-cup) fresh thick thick cream. cream. Complete Complete 1 Icup) fresh the cooking cooking in in a (160"C., 325F., a moderate moderate oyen oven (160C., 325"F., Gas Mark Gas Mark the 3), basting basting frequently. frequently. 3), grouse. GELINOlTE Gtilled hareJ hazel grouse. cELrNorrE GRILLE cnr.r,r,6n -- Slit Slit the the hazel hazel Grilled grouse along along the the back. back. Open it and and remove remove most Open it most of of the the small small grouse bones. Gently Gently f1atten flatten the the bird, bird, season season it it with with salt salt and and bones. paprika, brush brush with with melted melted butter, butter, co cover it ail all over over with with paprika, ver it grated breadrumbs freshly grated grill on a breadcrumbs and and cook cook under under the the grillon a freshly gentle heat. heat. Brown Brown well well on on ail all sides. sides. gentle Garnish with with watercress watercress and and surround surround with with a a border border of of Garnish half-slices of gherkin. of lemon lemon and and slices slices of of gherkin. half-slices (see BUTIER, Serve either either with with Maftre Mattre d'htel d'h6tel buller butter (see BUTTER, Serve (see SAUCE) Compound bUl/ers), butters), with Diable sauce with Diable sauce (see SAUCE) or or with with Compound grilled poultry poultry and any sauce sauce suit suitable for grilled and wildfowl. wildfowl. any able for grouse il Hazel grouse i la la hongroise. hongroise. GELINOTTE cELrNorrE A LA r,a HONGROISE noNcnorsE Hazel (3 tablespoons) Cook2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) ehopped chopped onion seasoned seasoned Cook 2 tablespoons paprika in grouse in with paprika in butter. butter. Put Fut the the trussed trussed hazel hazel grouse in a a with casserole with with the the onion. onion. Cook gentle heat. Cook in in the the oyen oven in in gentle casserole When the the bird is almost bird is almost cooked, cooked, remove put it remove the the string string and and put it When pouring back in in the the casserole, casserole, pou (5 tableover it it 4 4 tablespoons tablespoons (5 back ring over paprika. Complete the cooking, spoons) cream. cream. Season Season with with paprika. spoons) basting the the bird bird frequently frequently with with the cream. basting p.lrN DE grouse loar. Hrzel grouse prepared loaf. PAIN DE GELINOTTE GELrNorrE This is is prepared Hazel - This like game loa!). Partridge loaf(see loaf (see LOA LOAVES, Winged game loaJ). like Partridge VES, Winged grouse mousse, Hazel grouse mousse, hot hot or cold. cold. MOUSSE uoussn DE DE GELINOTTE GELrNorrE Hazel Made from grouse in fillets of hazel grouse of hazel in the the sa same as Quai! Made from flUets me way as Quail (see QlJAIL). mousse (see mousse QUAIL). grouse and Plt6 ofhazel potted hazel grouse. PT, ofhezel grouse hazel grouse_ and potted rA16, TERRlNE TERRTNE Pt grouse or potted DE GELINorty Pdtds of potted hazel grouse grouse of hazel DE GELINOTTE hazel grouse - Pts prepared in are prepared in the sa same as pdtds of partridge and potted are me way as pts ofpartridge potted partridges (see (see PARTRIDGE). PARTRIDGE). partridges grouse. GELINOTTE Roast hazel cELrNorrE RTIE n6fls in Roast bazel grouse. Wrap the bird bird in - Wrap larding bacon and truss. Cook in a hot oven for 15 to larding bacon and truss. Cook in a hot oyen for 15 to 18 minutes, on the the spit spit for for 18 18 to 20 minutes. Add a little minutes, and and on to 20 Add a little pan to water roasting pan a gravy. water to to the the roasting to make make a gravy. Serve with with the bird. bird. In England, and potato ln England, bread bread sauce, fried fried breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and potato crisps are usually game. crisps are usually served served with with this this game. Selmi of sALMrs Salmi of hazel ba:rel gouse. grouse. cELrNorrE GELlNOTfE EN EN SALMIS - Prepared in in the of woodcock (see same way as Salmi ofwoodcock (see WOODCOCK). WOODCOCK). the same SuprGmes supRExvrEs DE Suprmes of of hazel hazel grouse. grouse. SUPR.!lMES DE cELrNorrE GELINOTTE - Remove move the the breasts !,;reasls from from an an uncooked hazel grouse. grousc. Trim Trim and bone bone them. them. Flatten Flatten them them carefully, carefully, season with with salt sali and pepper, pepper, and and cook cook in in butter. buller. Lay them on a dish, garnish garnish as indicated the appropriate appropriate recipe, recipe, and and serve serve with with the indicated in in the sauce sauce recommended. recommended. All Ali recipes recipes given given for for cooking cooking and and serving serving suprmes suprmes of of chicken chicken and and game game birds birds are are suitable for for suprAmes suprmes of of hazel hazel grouse. grouse.

inhabitants of of inhabitants of the the market market town town of Lern6. In In almost of Lern. almost ail the of all the houses there there was was an an oyen oven to to cook cook the the hearth-cakes. hearth-cakes. Sorne houses Some of of going back these ovens, ovens, hewn hewn in in the the rocks, rocks, still still exist, exist, going to the these back to the eleventh eentury. century. eleventh The fashion fashion for for Lern Lern6 hearth-cakes, hearth-cakes, of peasants of which which the the peasants The from Chinonais Chinonais were were so so fond, fond, continued continued until the the end of the the end of from eighteenth century. century. eighteenth published an E. Johanneau, Johanneau, who who published edition of of the an edition the works works of E. of Rabelais with with intcrcsting interesting commentaries, commentaries, tells of his tells of his trip trip to to Rabelais Lern6 in in September September 1821. 1821. Lern given'Galettes, In this village village he he was was given hearth-cakes, called hearth-cakes, ln 'Ga/ettes, called have a part of reputation in a high reputation in this this part of the country.' country.' which have Since 1821, 1821, the the trade trade in in these these cakes cakes has has bec become negligible Since orne negligible at Lern. Lern6, and and soon soon only only their memory will remain. Since at Since they they have fallen fallen into into such such undeserved undeserved disfavour, disfavour, it it is is weil have well to to what Rabelais Rabelais said about about them: them: recall what 'Notez que que c viande /este. c'est cileste, manger manger d djeusner, dijeusner, 'Notez 'est viande r aisins avec av e c fouache raisins fouac he frais fr ai s che.' 'It is heavenly fare is heavenly fare to grapes and to lunch lunch on on grapes and fresh-baked 'lt hearth-cakes.'' hearth-cakes. Hearth-cakes are still made in the Auvergne, but in quite quite a a different way from these these famous hearth-cakes. hearth-cakes. difrerent Auv ergne hearth-cakes. FouAcEs D'AUVERGNE-Ingredients. hear t h-cakes. FOUACES D'AtrvrncNn - /ng redient s. Auvergne (18 oz., 4! g. (18 (a oz., 1 4| eups) cups) flour, 100 g. (4 butter, 15 l5 g. 500 g. $ cup) butter, yeast, 3 oz.) yeast, glass Cognac, 3 eggs, eggs, a a small small glass a few Cognac, a few drops (:~ G oz.) orange-flower water, 1 I dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, scant:l: scant I cup) milk. orange-flower ingredients together in a bowl. Leave for all ingredients Method. Work ail Set out like a a crown on buttered paper and and brush 12 hours. Set yolk of egg. egg. Sake Bake in moderate oyen. oven. with yolk

HEDGEHOG. HRISSON nfnrssoN mammal, regarded regarded HEDGEHOG. - Insect-eating marnrnal, good to eaL by sorne some people eat. people as very good

IIELDER BYGONE DA DAYS. HELDER RESTA lJRANTS OF BYGONE YS. - See RESTAURANTS

IIELVELLE Type of grows in of fungus which HELVELLE whieh grows in Europe Europe in - Type or in upland woods at the base of trees, especidamp grass, or ally fir fir trees. trees. Most of helvelle areedible. They are sometimes Most types of he/velle are edible. They sometimes called monks' The best of thern monks' morels, morels, baby baby morels. morels. The best of them is is the crinkled helvelle,which crinkled helvelle, which tastes tastes a little little like like the true morel.
HEMIOIYE. HEMIONE. t$utoxnHMIONE -~ Wild animal found in Asia, akin to the donkey donkey and horse. horse. For suitable recipes, see DONKEY, DONKEY. HORSE. HORSE.
CIGUE of a CIGU - Name Name of a number number of poisonous poisonous plants of of the Umbelliferae family. The The poisonous poisonous qualities qualities of some sorne of of these these plants have been been greatly greatly exaggerated. exaggerated. The great hemlock (which might be confusod confused with parsley) is in fact It seems seems improbable that that Socrates Socrates fact hardly poisonous. It should have been been poisoned with the the juice juice of of this plant plant alone. alone. The The little liule hemlock hem/ock is is distinguished distinguished from from parsley parsley and chervil, ehervil. with which it il could be confusod, confused, by its thicker and larger larger leaves Ieaves which are marbled marbled with black black or violet on the the lower side and and on on the edges, edges, and and particularly particularly by by the the unpleasant smell smell which which is is released reJeased whe,n when the the leaves leaves are rubbed. rubbed. Some Sorne poisonous poisonous effects effects are attributed to to it, it. but but as with wilh the preceding preceding species, species, its its poisonous poisonous qualities qualities are are exaggerated. exaggerated.

IIEMLOCK. HEMLOCK.

HAZELNUT. HAZELNUf.

NoTSETTE NOISETTE -

pleasant pleasant to to taste. taste. Hazelnuts Hazelnuts are are used used in in confectionery. confectionery.
Cultivated Cultivated hazelnuts hazelnuts are are called ca lied filberts. fllberts. Hazelnut Hazelnut butter bul/er - See See BUT[EF., BUTIER, Compound Compound butters. bul/ers.

bush, bush, which which grows grows all ail over over Europe. Europe. This This nut nut is is rich ri ch in in oil oil and

Fruit Fruit of of the the hazelnut hazelnut or or cobnut cobnut

IIEADY. HEADY. cAprrrr,rx CAPITEUX - Applied Applied to to wines wines which which go go to to one's one's
head, head, that that is, is. wines wines which which are are rich ri ch in in alcohol. alcohol.

IIEART. HEART. coEr.rRCOEUR - See See OFFAL OFFAL or or VARIETY VARlETY MEATS. MEATS. IIBARTH-CAKE. HEARTH-CAKE. rou,c,cp-Old FOUACE - Old form fonn of of pastry pastry hkeagalette like a galette of of fine fine wheaten wheaten flour. flour. It It is is made made of of unleavened unleavened dough dough and and
was was originally originally baked baked under under the the ashes ashes in in the the hearth. hearth. HearthHearthcake cake is is made made in in all ail the the provinces provinces of of France. France. Hearth-cake Hearth-cake makers makers from from Lern6 Lern have have acquired acquired a a universal uruversal

IIERIBEIYNET. HERB-BENNET. nsNolrE BENOiTE - The roots roots of this this plant, plant, which which gives out a smell of of cloves, cloyes. possess possess stimulating and tonic tonie gives out properties. properties. Its Its yellow yellow leaves, leaves, picked picked before before the the appearance appearance of of the the flowers, are sometimes sometimes eaten eaten in salad. salado flowers, are

HERB-M. HERB-IVY. IvE IVE -

Species Species of of chive, chive, used used

in the the flavouring flavouring of of

salads salads and and sauces. sauces.

reputation, reputation, thanks thanks to to the the novel novel Gargantua.In Gargantua. In the the sixteenth sixteenth century century the the guild guild of of hearth-cake hearth-cake makers makcrs consisted consisted largely largely
452

HERBS. HERBS. nrnsEs-A HERBES- A large large number nurnber of of aromatic aromatic plants plants used used in in the kitchen come come under under the the general general heading heading of of herbs. herbs. the kitchen Among Among the the most most common corn mon are are chervil, chervil, tarragon, tarragon. chives chives and and

HERRING HERRING
parsley. parsley. Herbs Herbs are are also also usod used as as trimmings trimmings in in salads. salads. (See (See AROMATIC AROMATIC PLANTS, PLANTS, FINES FINES HERBES.) HERBES.) Herb Herbbroth. broth. PoTAGE POTAGE AI-rx AUX HERBEs HERBES - Refreshing Refreshing soup soup made made with with leeks leeks and and pot pot herbs. herbs. (See (See SOUPS.) SOUPS.) Pot Pot vegetables vegetables or'herbs'. or 'herbs'. Hn'BEs HERBES poucinrs POTAGRES - Generally, Generally, six six vegetables vegetables only only are are included included among among the the pot pot herbs. herbs. They They are are orach orach (rarely (rarely found), found), spinach, spinach, lettuce, lettuce, sorrel, sorrel, seakaleseakalebeet beet and and purslane. purslane. All Ali these these vegetables vegetables are are used used in in the the preparation preparation of of soups soups and and broths, broths, but but this this list list is is a a somewhat somewhat irbitrary arbitrary selection, selection, as as there there are are many many other other vegetables vegetables equally equally suitable for for the the pot. pot. -Turtlesuitable Turtle herbs.I{ERBESA herbs. HERBES ToRTLJETORTUE - Mixture Mixture of ofaromatic aromatic herbs herbs of of which which the the main main ones ones are are basil, basil, marjoram, marjoram, savory savory and and thyme. thyme. These These herbs herbs are are used used in in the the flavouring flavouring of of turtle turtle soup, soup, and and also in in turtle turtle sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE, SAUCE, Tortue Tortue sauce) sauce) which which is is also served served with with calf's calf's head. head. nDnnHRE - nrench French term term for for a a stag stag between between eighteen eighteen months months and and two two years years old, old, from from the the time time bumps bumps appear appear on on its its forehead forehead to to the the time time when when the the antlers are are fully fully formed. fonned.

waters, or the polar polar seas seas to to the the French French Atlantic Atlantic coastal coastal waters, or the shoals. Channel, Channel, where where they they congregate congregate in in immense immense shoals. from Calais to The Theherring herringfisheries fisheries in inthe theChannel Channel extend extend from Calais to lasts from the the the mouth mouth of of the the Orne. Orne. The The fishing fishing season season lasts from the Boulogne can middle middle of of October October to to the the end end of of December. December. Boulogne can herring industry. claim claim to to be be the the real real centre centre of ofthe the French French herring industry. flavoured of The Thefresh fresh herring herringis is among among the themost most delicately de!icately flavoured of ways. fish. fish. It It can can be be cooked cooked in in a a great great many many different different ways.

HERMETICAL HERMETICAL SEALING. SEALlNG. nnnufrtQun HERMTIQUE - Whe'n When a a lid lid or or stopper stopper of a container fits fits so exactly that that the the container container is is rendired rendered airtight, airtight, it it is is said said to to be be hermetically hennetically sealed. sealed. Casseroles and and saucepans saucepans can can be made almost almost airtight airtight by by Casseroles
us,ing using flour-and-water flour-and-water paste paste to to seal seal them. them.

Herrings

_ SEE HERMITAGE WINE WlNESee ERMITAGE. ERMITAGE. HERMITAGE This shellfish BERNARD-L'ERMITE HERMIT CRAB. CRAB. BERNARD-L'ERMITE - This shellfish has has IIDRMIT characteristic. Nature one particularly one particularly interesting interesting characteristic. Nature having having

just round middle, round the negleited neglected to give it a hard shell except just the middle, shells of of into shells it creeps creeps into its enemies enemies it from its itself from to protect itself to rightful owner. molluscs, abandoned by the rightful

Hermit crab crab Herooit

Cut them of freshfish. prepare herrings How to - Dressing How to prepare herrings Dressing of fresh fish. Cut them roes. Scale, wash soft roes. and soft gills, leaving leaving the the gills, through through the the hard hard and Scale, wash are which they way in the way According to dry thoroughly. thoroughly. According and dry and to 1:he in which they are sides, fillet thern or, or sides, the back along the them along slit them cooked, slit to to be be cooked, back or fillet them or, grilled, leave them whole. or grilled, poached, braised braised or to be be poached, are to if they are ifthey leave them whole. as they are. them as or fry fry them Grill or bloaters. Grill and bloaters. Kippers and Kippers they are. salt, soak them the salt, remove the To remOve them. To Fillet them. Salt herrings. herrings. Fillet Salt soak them parts of and water. Drain, of milk milk and of equal equal parts mixture of or a a mixture in milk milk or in water. Drain, recipe. to the according and cook them, and cook according to the recipe. dry and and trim trim them, dry if Soak, if thern. Soak, trim them. and trim skin and Fillet, skin herrings. Fillet, Smoked herrings. Smoked to the recipe. according salt. Cook remove to necessary, necessary, to remove salt. Cook according to the recipe. FRAIsH.,msxcs FRAISHERRINGS. HARENGS FRESH HERRINGS. FRESH HARENcS cntr,lfs A rA oIlsL"E gdilcd henings Devilled Devilled grilled herrings. HARENGS GRILLFs LA DIABLE Season and coat them and sides. sides. Season back and along back heriings along the herrings Slit the Slit and coat them and oil, and breadcrumbs and white breadcrumbs with white Sprinkle with mustard. with mus with tard. Sprinkle oil, and grill. the grill. under the slowly under cook slowly cook (see SAUCE)' sauce or Ravigote Ravigote sauce sauce or Mustard sauce wiih Mustard Serve with (see SAUCE). Serve

crustacean this crustacean about this writing about the eider, elder, writing Dumas the Alexander Dumas Alexander had who had Creator, who says'the la cuisine, caisine, says de la in his Dictionnaire 'the Creator, Dictiomaire de tnhis or became became disturbed, or was disturbed, lobster, was asaa lobster, him as started to dress dress him started to job, and him finished hirn and finished the job, of the middle of the middle in the absent-minded absent-minded in asaa slug. slug. dressed dressed as are which are body which parts of its body of its protect those those parts so, to to protect 'And 'And so, which shellwhich sees aashell asil it sees assoon soonas tempting, as so tempting, and so vulnerable vulnerable and proceeds to to take take and proceeds shell and of the the shell ownerof the owner iteats eats the fits itssize, size, it fits its warm.' still wann.' place while it is isstlIJ while it its its place asshrimps shrimps ways as sameways in the thesame cooked in becooked can be Hennit Hermit crabs crabscao in cookedin it is iscooked shell, it the shell, of the out of takenout (q.v.). Having Having been beentaken (q.v.). bay and bay thyme and withthyme (q.v.) flavoured flavoured with salted court-bouillon (q.v.) iitteOcourt-bouillon water. insea seawater. cookedin becooked Itcan canalso also be leaf. leaf. It sprinkle crab,sprinkle hermitcrab, thehennit cleanedthe having cleaned afterhaving One also,after Onecan canalso, the underthe shell under borrowed shell itsborrowed inits cookititin andcook it butter and it with with butter coals. hotcoals. grill,or onhot orbake bakeititon grill,

FILETs I'rnglaisc' FILETS herrings l'anglaise. of herrings Fillets of Fillets DE HARENGS them in egg Dip them herrings. Dip the herrings. trim the and trim Fillet and L'ANGLAIs -- Fillet L'ANGLAISE in egg fat. Serve Serve with in boiling deep-fry and deep-fry in boiling fat. breadcrumbs and and breadcrumbs and with butters) Compound butters) (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound butter (see d'h6tel butter Maitre d'htel Maitre roes. soft roes. mashed, soft boiled, mashed, with boiled, mixed with mixed herrings along the herrings Slash the FRrrs -- Slash HARENcs FRITS herringp. HARENGS Frierl herrings. Fried along in boiling deep-fry in and deep-fry flour and and flour milk and in milk them in Dip them the sides. sides. Dip the boi!ing and salt with Season with salt and in aa clotho cloth.Season dry in anddry them, and Drain them, fat. Drain fat. lemons. quartered parsley and fried garnish with gamish with fried parsley and quartered lemons. Cut, scale and dry the cnIr,r,6sHARENcS GRILLS herrings. HARENGS Grilled berrings. Grilled - Cut, scale and dry the melted or melted oil or with oil them with Coat them sides. Coat the sides. Slash the herrings. Slash herrings. grill. Serve Serve with the grill. under the slowly under and cook cook slowly butter. Season Season and butter. with butters). (seeBUTTER, Compoundbutters). BUTTER, Compound butter(see Maitre d'htel d'h6tel butter Maitre sauce suitable for other sauce (seSAUCE) anyother orany SAUCE)or sauce (see Mustard sauce Mustard suitable for grilledfish. fish. grilled nourn*ctnn A u' rnnrNcs boulangdre.HARENGS LA BOULANGRE laboulangre. Herrings la Herrings with liberally with dishliberally earthenwaredish flameproofearthenware ovalflameproof anoval Greasean Grease
A

pn nmsNcs

withbluish bluish Fishwith hening. Fish commonherring. HARENG HERRING. HARENG HERRING. - -the the common belly. andbelly. sidesand andsilvery silverysides alongits itsback backand scalesalong scales proareproNorthSea, Sea,are inthe theNorth foundin arefound Thesefish, fish,which whichare These fromthe the migratefrom year,in theymigrate inMarch, Marclr, they Everyyear, fertile. Every digiously fertile. digiously
453 453

sprinklewith salt. andsprinkle dishand inthe thedish herringsin Lay66herrings butter.Lay butter. chopped potatoesand and1I chopped slicedpotatoes thinly sliced with22thinly Surround with Surround inbutter. butter. cookedin lightlycooked havebeen beenlightly whichhave onion, which onion, and powdered bay thymeand pepper, aa!ittle littlethyme salt,pepper, withsalt, Seasonwith Season powdered bay the dish' Add overthe butter melted tablespoons 2 to 3 leaf. Pour leaf. Pour 2 to 3 tablespoons melted butter over dish. Add inthe the cookin andcook boiland tothe theboil Bringto cover. Bring tocover. water enoughwa enough ter to
salt.

with

HERRING
oven, basting basting from from time time ta to time. time.Sprinkle Sprinkle with withcnopped chopped oven, parslry andserve servein inthe thecooking cooking dish. dish. parsley and proceed Hetrings lii La lameunire. meuni&re. HA.RENGS Hlxsrrcs ALA u MEUNIRE uruurtnr -- Proceed Herrings as for Fira d la rneunidre (see FERA). as for Fra li la meunire (see FRA). Herrings in ir white white wine. wine. HARENGS nenrNcs TUVS 6ruves AU AUVIN vrN BLANC BLANcCut the herrings into into thick thick slices slics and and put them thern in inaabuttered buttered pan. Season with salt. Moisten with 2 dl. ($ pint, scant cup) pan. Season salt. Moisten with G pint, seant Cl.lp) white wine, wine, seaSOn season with salt and pepper. Dot with butter cut white wIth salt and pepper. Dot with butter cut pieces. Bring to the boil over a high flame. Cover, into small small pieces. into ta the boil (}ver a high ftame. Cover, and simmer simmer for for 88 to to l0 minutes. minutes. and Drain the herrings, herrings, and place on and place on a a dish. dish. Smmer Simmer the the Drain the cooking liquor to to evaporale evaporate sorne some of of the the liqoid, liquid, add add aa liule little cao king Iiquor butter, and pour over and pour the fish. over the fish. butter, Marinade of of fresh freCr herrings (hors-drcuvre). HARENGS HARENGs FRAIS FRArs Marinade uenrN6s Steep 12 for 6 houn and 6 hours and MARINS -- Steep 12 soft-roed herrings in salt for dry with with aa cloth. cloth. Put hrt aa layer layer of of finely sliced sliced on onions and dry ions and carrots in in a flameproof earthenware a flameproof earthenware dsh dish with with sprigs sprigs of of carrots parsley and thyme, I bay leaf, a few peppercorns and i or Z and thyme, leaf. a few peppercorns and 1 Or 2 cloves. Lay the herrings in the dish. the herrings the dish. Pour over over a a mixture mixture of parts of of equal equal parts of white white wine wine and and Pour put another vinegar, which which shou!d quite caver should not not ql.lite cover the the fish. fish. Put another vinegar, layer of of sliced sliced onions onions and and carrots carrots on on top. Cover Cover the the dish dish with with oiled paper. Bring ta to the the bail. boil. When When the liquid liquid is is bubbling, bubbling, cover tlre dish and simmer simmer slowly slowly for for 15 15 minutes. minutes. caver kave the the herrings herrings ta to cool cool in in the the stock. stock. Leave Sarted herrings la Ia lyonmise. HARENGS TTARENGs SAUrtS sAUTfs LYONLyoNSauted NArsE - Slash the herrinp along the sides. Scaso.q and dip in NAISE Slash the the sides... SeaSQn and dip in ffour. Saut Saut6 them them on on one one side side in butter. butter. Tum Tum tbe the herrings herrings flour. over and and add add 3 3 ta to 4 4 tablespoons tablespoons finely finely chopped chopped anions, onions, over previousty frid in in butter. butter. previously lightly fried Finish cooking the the anions onions and and herrngs herrings together and and then then Finish put the herrings herrings in a a dish. dish. Pour Pour the the butter butter and onons onions over. over. put the Sprinkle wilh parsley. Pour with chopped chopped parsley. I tablespool'l tablespoon ofvinegar of vinegar Sprinkle Pour! into and heat heat in a little over the fish. ioto thepan the and in a little butter. butter. Pour Pour this this over the fish. Soft nres. LArrANcEs Soft herring rots. LAITANCES DE DE HARENcs HARENGS - Remove Remove the the soft for soft roa roes from from fresh fresh [s11ings. Use Use any any resipe rec1pe indicated indicated for (see SOFT ROES). carp carp soft soft roes roes (see SOFT
Smokedherrings herringsare are processod in inthe the following following way: way: Smoked The herrings herrings are are salted to greater or to aa grealer lesser degree or lesser degree The pickled according ta to the the type type of of smoked smoked herring herring required. required. Piekled aecording herrings must qmohed herrings must he be salted salted for for at leasteight at least eight days. smoked Slightly salted salted or or mild mild smoked smoked herrings herrings are are made from fresh made from Slightly herrings salted salted for for twenty-four twenty-four ta to forty-eight forty-eight hours. hours. Bloaters Bloaters herrings aresalted salted for for aafew few hours hours only. only. are Once they they are are salted. salted, the the herrings herrings are are strung strung on on rads rods Once threadod through through their their gills, and put to and are are put to drain drain on on trolleys trolleys threaded or racks, racks, then then set set up in the smoking up in smoking chimneys. chimneys. In In modem modern or smokeries, the the racks racks are are fitted fitted into into the the chimney, chimney, thus thus avoidavoidsrnokeries, great deal ing a a great deal of of handlng. handling. ing When the the herrings herrings are are in in the the chimney, a a beechwood beechwood fire fire is is Wheu lit. This produces a This produces powerful draught, which a powerful which dries dries the lit. the herrings, and and at at the the same same time time draws draws offany excess excess oil. oil. Next, Next, herrings, the fire fire is is damped damped with with beech beech sawdust sawdust and and chips. This This the causes the the fire fir to to send send off off a a dense dense smoke smoke which which smokes the the causes herrings and and gives them them theu their special special flavour. flavour. When- the the herrings have have been been sufficiently sufficiently smoked, smoked, they they are are removed from the chmney shimasy and and taken taken to to the the smokery r-oi"ry worksheds, where girls sort grade them, sort and and grade them, and and crate crate the the sound ones "'''''-'-'''''''''1'> according ta to size quality. size and and qualty. Generally, very large herrings are are crated crated in in twenties, twenties, weighing from 4 to 5 kg. (Sf to lb.) according according to to stason. weighing season. lb.) Medium herrings herrings are are packed in batches batches of of twenty-five. twenty-five, Medium werghing from from 3t 3f ta to 4 4 kg. (7f; to 8l lb.) Small Small herrings herrittgs are weighing are packed iu also paeked in batches batches of twenty,five and weigh from from 3 to also 3 ta ke.(61 to 7l1b.). 7i lb.). Smoked Smoked herrings are packed in are alJo packed in 3! kg. (61: to wooden barrels which hold hold from from si.xty sixty to to a a hundred hundred fish, fish, wooden barrels whieh according to to size. according Bloaters are are made made from from herrings which are very slightly Bloaters salted and smoked. smoked. They They do not keep for any length of time, salted and should be and should he eaten without without delay, like fresh fish. Kippers are lightly smoked smoked herrings slit from from top top to Kippers are bottom become havebecome bottom and and opened out. In recent years, kippers have very very popular popular in France. Fillets Fillets of of fresh fresb and a nd salt herring herring are are very very much sought sought after. arter. Skilled of the herring, eut off off the the head head and aod tail tail of herring, slit it it Skilled girls cut open, bone and and skin skin it. it. In ln this trus way fillets flllets are are obtained obtained of of which every part part can can be eaten, and there is no !JO waste. 2W 200 g. (7 oz.) of of f,llets are packed packed in in little Iiule wooden boxes, or or parcels parcels of I kg. (2+ lb.) of Oi-Ib.) of fillets flilets are are made made up. Iridr smoked smoked herings. HARENcs HARENGS sAuRs SAURS A L'rRrAwpArsE L'IRLANDAISE Wash Wash and and dry dry the the herrings. Cut Cut offthe off the heads. Split Split the the fish fisb in in half half lengthwise lengthwise and and spread them them out out flat fiat in in a a deep deep dish. dish. Cover Cover them them with with whisky whisky and set set light light to to them. them. When When the tbe whisky whisky has has all aIl burnt bumt away and and the the flame Bame extinguished, extinguished, the the herrings herrings are ready for for eating. Smoked fillets flUets of herdng in in oil. oU. FrLErs flLETS DE DE HARENGs HARENGS sArJRs SAURS uexrNfsA L'HUILE- Fillet and and trfin24 trim 24 smoked smoked herrings. herrings. Soak Soale MARINS r'nurt,sthern them in in milk milk for2 for 2 hours hours to to remove remove salt. salt. Drain, Drain, and and dry dry thern them in in a a cloth. c1oth. Put Put them them in in a a pie dish dish in in layers, layers, with with alternate alterna te layers layers of finely chopped onions, sprigs sprigs of thyme and and brokenbrokenup up bay bay leaves. Jeaves. Place the soft soft and aod hard bard roes roes ofthe herrings herrings on on top. Cover with olive Coverwith olive oil, oil, and and leave leave them them to ta soak soak for for24 24 hours. bours. Smoked filleb flUets of ofherring herring witb witb soft soft roes. roes. FrLBrs BLeTS DE DE HARENcs HARENGS sAURs SAURS Aux AUX LATTANCES LAlTANCES- Fillet Fillet several several smoked, smoked, soft-roed soft-roed herrings. herrings. Remove Remove the the skin, skin, and and bone bone them them as as completely as as possible. possible. Cut Cut each each fillet fi.llet into ioto strips. strips. Put Put them them in in a a pan pan with enough enougb milk milk almost almost to to cover cover them. them. Leave Leave to ta soak soak for for 30 30 minutes, minutes, or or longer longer if ifthe the herrings are very salty. salty. Rub Rub the thesoft soft roes roes through througha a sieve, collecting the the pur6e in in a a bowl bowl underneath. underneath. Add Add Il teaspoon teaspoon mustard, I dl. (6 tabletable-spoons, spoons, scant seantf cup) cup)oil oil (stirring (stirringit it in in a a little little at ata a time), time), and and a a little little vinegar. Add Add further further seasoning seasoningif ifnecessary. necessary. Drain Drain the fillets tillets and and dry dry them them in inaa cloth. clotho Arrange Arrange them them in in hors-d'euvre hors-d'uvre dishes. dishes. Pour Pour the the soft soft roe roe sauce sauce over over them tbem and and sprinkle sprinlelewith withqhopped choppe<! parsley. parsley.

ll

methods: methods: When When the the Boulogne .JjOIJlOjgoe herring fleet trawls in the North Sea f,rqrn June to October, the trawlers are at sea for long periods from June to are at sea for long periods at a tine and the herrings are salted on board as soon as thev at a time and the herrings are salted on board as soon as they are caught. They are put down with alternate layers of sali, are caughl. They are put down with alternate layers of salt, in barrels which are then hermetically sealed. in barrels which are then hermetically sealed. Fishing vessels which operate in the pas-de-Calais and the vessels which operate in the Pas-de-Calais and the Channel pofts put into port each day as soon as the nets are ports put into port eaeh day as soon as the nets are hauled in. The fish is transported from the boat to the salting hauJed in. Thefish is transported from the boat to the salting sheds. After it has been mixd with sah in a long wooden sheds. Aner it has been mixed with salt in a long wooden trougb it is thrown into cement vats. The salt mixes with the trough it is thrown into cement vais. The salt mixes with the moisture moisture from from the the herrings berrings to to form fonn a a brine brine with with a a saltsaltdensity of 25". The fish must remain steeped in this brine for density of 25". The fish must remain steeped in tbis brine for at least te,n days, to ensure its preservation. at least ten days. to enrure ts preservation.

SALT HERRINGS. HARE.NGS selts SALT HERRINGS. nenrucs SALS - In ln the the Boulogne Boulogne industry herrings are Fhiog fishil1g industry trerrings are either either salted salted at at sea sea or or in in port. port. Salt_ herrings are processed industrially by the following Salt berrings are processed industrially by the fol1owing

partially cooked. Cold Cold smoking smoking is is carriod carded out out almost almos! exctusively in France, notably in Boulogne. The fuel usod is exclusively in France, notably in Boulogne. Tbe fuel used is always preferably wooq beecb and always wood, p-referably beech., and sawdust. sawdust. Resinous Resinous wood wood is is avoided, avoided, as as it it imparts imparts an ail unpleasant unpieasant flavour flavour to to the the fish. fisb. Hot Hotsmoking is scarcelywer used usedexcpt exceptin inthe thepreparation prepara tion of ofbucklings, bucklings,which are aremuch IDuchin indernand demandin inAlsace. Alsace.
454 454

SMOKED HERRINGS. HERRINGS. HmrNcs HARENGS rrruns FUMS - There There are are two t:wo ways of smoking fish, 'hot' and 'cold'. of smoking 'hot' and 'cold'. In cold cold smoking smoking, the fish fish is is hung hung some sorne way away from the fire and is smoked at a temperature of about zS'C. (77'F.). fue and is smoked at a temperature of about In In hot hot smoking the the fish fish is is hung hung close close to to the the fire and is

SMOKED

partially

HOAXES
HIPFOCRASHIPPOCRAS - Spiced Spiced aromatic aromatic wine wine much enjoyed by by our
ancestors. It was was so called because becaus.e it was was filtered filterOO through Ihrough a ancestors. of a type said to to be be invented by Hippocrates, Hippocrales, the the great bag of physician who lived lived in the the fifth fifth century cenlury B.C. B.C speaking Hippocras Hippocras was was a a type type of of aperitif apritif Properly speaking similar to la the vermouths vermouths made made nowadays, rather than a table similar wine. Our Our forebears, forebears, in n fact, facl, drank drank it it before before meals meals or, if if it it was of the meal. roeal. served at table, at the end of Arnaud de Villeneuve, Villeneuve, famous'thirteenth famous' thirteenth century physinumber of of different different recipes for the spiced wine. cian, gives a number wine to the boil In one recipe he he recommends recommends bringing the wne J litres (5| (st pints, and putting in it a sachet containing, for 3 75 g. g, (3 oz.) oz.) each each of the the following following spices: 6l pints) wine, 75 raisns. Boil the wine wne until it is cubeb, cloves, nutmeg and raisins. sugar. reduced reduced by bya of its volume. Add sugar. a third of In ln another another recipe, the wine wne is is spiced spiced with a a mixture mixture of of nuts, cloves, cinnamon, ginger, paradise DutS, cloves, sugar and a a pinch pinch cinnamon, ofmusk. Hippocras Hippocras was was drunk drunk cooled cooled or or even even iced iced whenever possible. possible. This wine remained popular for a a very long time; it it was it were still in fashion in the eighteenth century. Presents of it made made to the king and to foreign nobility. Here is s a more recent rceent recrpe for Hippocras: g. (If lb., 3 cups) sugar in a Put 700 g, a saucepan wilh with 4 dl. (i scant 2 cups) water and the following spices: 4 teatea(1 pint, pmt, seant (ground), cloves, t of nutmeg (ground), of a a nutmeg to 2 spoons grnger, ginger, 2 cloves, to tablespoons cinnamon and the zest of Seville oranges. tablespoons cinnamon of 2 Seville Boil this syrup for a few few minutes. Add 2 litres litres (3| pints, (white or red). a| pints) of old wine (white rOO). Leave the mixture on the stove until until the surface turns it into a stave tums white, then pour it a large jug and leave Strain through jug leave to ta infuse infuse for 30 minutes. Strain through muslin, and bottle. bottle.

bread bread nade made variously of of barley, barley, wheat, wheat, chestnuts, mlitze, maize, Jerusalem Jerusalem artichokes artichokes and potatoes. potatoes. This This they they washed down with with beer beer and spirits made made from from glain. grain. They could could hardly h.ardly slsallow'another swallowanother morsel morse! when their their host announced that that it il was time time to proceed proceed to to the examination examination of of other other substances. At At this point, point, a delicate delicate feast feast was served, which which only only Grimod Grimod de de la la Reynidre Reynire could could enjoy enjoy (not (not having having eaten eaten anything bdorehand). beforehand). He did so 50 in in front front of of the bloated 'economists' who were satiated satiated but but not not satisfied. satisfied. The most of a guest To test the palate and discernment discernment.of guest - The typical example is the meal served to to Monselet. Monselet, journalist and staunch famous famous.journalist staunch defender of of gastronomy gastronomy was considered considered to be he anything anything but a connoisseur. connaisseur. Chavette, who ran the Bribant Brbanl restauiant, restaurant, one day took it it into into his head to invite invite Monselet to ta dinner. The The menu menu was:
Swallow's SwaIJow's nest nesl soup

Brill
lzard Izard cutlets Capercaillie Capereallie Good Hope. Hope, etc. Wines Wines from Tokay, Tokay, the Rhine, Cape of Good
dishes. Monselet gave the highest prai.se praise to each of of these dishes. Joseph H6mard Hmard describes how how Chavette, looking looking stern and tragic, tragie, pointed an accusihg accusihg finger l'inger at al Monselet when the meal had had ended: ended: 'You have just, 'Vou just, he jeered jeered with witb a fiendish laugh, 1augh, publicly public1y your ignorance. The was a The swallow's nest soup soup was swallow's nest admitted your admitted pur6e ofnood1es cooked of noodles and kidney beans; pure beans; the brill briB was cod cooked on a fine comb (and (and to illustrate illustrale his point he showed showed him the carefully preserved of two carefully preserved backbone made of two yellow yellow combs were lamb cutlets were izard euets sewn together back sewn back to ta back); baek); the tbe izard a small small was a capercaillie was cutlets marinated in bitters; the capercallie cutlets marinated in bitters; the Clos-Vougeot turkey sprinkled with a a glass of absinth! The Clos-Vougeot of cognac and a a flower of cognac by adding a was made made by a spoonful of fiower of was nothing violet to the Tokay was an ordinary ordinary wine; the violet to an nothing but but a punch added; for the South as for the South M6gon added; and as with a a Utile little punch Mon with simply aChablis.' African wine, it was u,as simply African wine, a Chablis.' 'I recognised recognised the . . :, .', Monse\e1 Monselet protested timidly, timidly, 'l 'But "But .. perfume of the little . . .' little Rhine flower .. perfume 'Which we obtained with a few drops of of thyme.' thyme.' ofessence 'Which essence of Then confronted confronted head. Then Monselet lowered his his head. Overcome, Monse!et and lheir their by the laughter of of the the other other guests and the unrestrained laughter and penance, for for an exhortations for for peaance, an amende amende honorable, and flung hims.elf himself to to his sort, he he fiung other encouragements encouragements of of [hat that sort, other in a a clasped, and and entreated entreated in in front front of of Chavette, hands dasped. knees in trembling voiee: voice: trembling 'Mercy! Pray don't Don't spread this abroad! don't betray me! Doo't you! l I beg of you! I have children!' children!' Save me from dishonour, 1 probably conc\uded The soire concluded with with much much drinking drinking and soirEe probably The not seem merriment. At At ail secret does does not seem ta to have all evenls, events, the the secret merriment. yet another been weil well kept. kept. No No more, in fact, fact, than than on on yet more, in been guest of the author occasion when the same Monselet was the guest same Monselet occasion Favre. The The latter latter Dictionnaire de de cuisine, cuisine,Joseph of the Grand Dictionnaire Joseph Favre. had wri written: tten : 'Dear Matre, fork will be be a a fork there will Maitre, tomorrow tomorrow at at midday, midday, there 'Oear party at Fulbert Dumonteil. Dumonteil. at the home of our friend Fulbert luncheon party I shall shall be doing the eooking.' cooking.' 1 journalist, novelist aod guest, the joumalisl, There was was to be a fourth guest, and a fourth politician, Tony The meou follows: R6villon. The as foUows: menu was was as Tony Rvillon. poltician, en case caisse Burbot liver en Isigny butter butter Saucissondc LyonSaucisson de Lyon -Isigny Salmon escalopes, escalopes, tartare sauce sauce Salmon New potatoes New Omelette d l'ambre gris

(lj

lt H

Large amphibious amphibious HIppoporAME HIP PO POT AMUS. HIPPOPOTAME -- Large HIPPTOPOTAMUS. food by the for food pachyderm whose flesh is mueh much sought after for pac:;n"loerm natives. African natives.
(Gastronomic). SUPERCHERlES cAsrRoNoMIQUEs surnncnnnres GASTRONOMIQUES HOAXES (G.astrollomic). of one gastronomic hoaxes By gastronomie we mean the substituting of hoaxes we By mean the product for anolher, another, or practical jokes and tricks of a similar product are nature. The various forms of falsification involving fraud are mystify and surprise Hoaxes intended to mystil'y not dealt with here. Hoaxes downfalsification harmless; while commercial falsifica are usually harmless; tian is dowoto or or detracting right dishonest. dishonest. The latter involves adding to right product and an and offering offering an from a a wholesome, wholesome, high-grade product from purpose of (or even of its place for the the purpose in ts even harmful) one in inferior (or gain. illicit gain. llicit It may be gastronomic hoax may take severaI forms. lt several forms. The gastronomie his guests of his advantags of who takes takes unfair advantage the jest of a a host host who to test the the it may may be [0 a proper meal; meal; it before serving them them with a the gastronomic skills order ta to amuse the a particular guest in arder gastronomie skills of a with the others; it it may be dietated dictated by by evenL~ events with the tacil tacit may even even be others; the agreement of be a a practical joke, where the finally, it may he of all; finally. agreement out of of host mystifies mystifies everybody by suddenly producing from out host it all that that it some startling novelty (which may not be ail the blue sorne be) ! appears to be)! out invitations invitations de la la Reynire Reyniire sent sent out a hosthost - Grimod de Jest of a 'Economists' luncheon', for a a SQ-called a luneheon luncheon party, a so-called 'Economists' for world. and agricultural agricultural world. reserved for specialists in the business and announced that that When they arrived, the master of the the house announced the mas When 1er of guests together could taste ail all he had so that that they they could had gathered his gueslS together so he grain(baked for vary and grainsorts of of breads (baked varying of time) and sorts mg lengths of based beverages. beverages. based Knowing the la Reynire's Reynidre's reputation of of Grimod Grimod de de la the reputaton Knowing guests had can table, the fasted the before. So So one one can the guests had faste<:! the day day before. table, However, they they their surprise at this announcement. announcment. However, surprise at imagine their greedily swallowed warm and and cold cold set to to with with a swallowed hot, hot, warm a will will and and greedily set
455 455

Dessert Dessert

quite an It appeared to from the to be be quite an ordinary ordinary menu., menu, apart apart from the Il ambergris. ambergris.

HOCCO
Monselet Monselet started off off by being late and lunch was already fishermen know the hog-fish under such names as as scorpion, (sea-devil). crapaud dc mer (sea-devil). crapaud (toad) or diable de is tough, the hog-fish is is not used and is used other The flesh flesh of the tough, and than for bouillabaisse bouillabaisse or similar fish soups.

over at 4 4 o'clock. o'c1ock. But, But, unover when when he he eventually eventually arrived arrived at dismayed, the the guests guests began began again, for for they were as eager as Favre that the the plot plot should should succeed. succeed. As As he he savoured the Favre that
various various dishes, dishes, Monselet Monselet discoursed knowledgeably knowledgeably upon upon each each one. one. The The omelette omelette particularly particularly delighted him; he he could not not find find words words enough to do it it justice. justice. Finally, Final1y, Favre was unable unable to to contain contain himself himself any any longer longer and and showed showed him him the the real menu. menu. The The result result was was catastrophic. catastrophic. We We must must add add that that a few few days previously the celebrated celebrated physiologist, had received received a number number of of crocodiles physiologist, Paul Paul Bert, Bert, had from order to to study study their from Egypt Egypt which which he he planned planned to to dissect dissect in in order nervous who was present present at the anatomy, anatomy, nervous system. system. Favre, Favre, who declared declared that that these these reptiles reptiles were were good good to to eat, eat, so Paul Bert set aside aside two two brains brains and and a a piece piece of of tail tail for himself, himself, while while Favre Favre carried six eggs eggs just just about abou t carried awty away a a whole whole tail, tail, four four brains brains and six ready ready for for laying. laying. And And so so it it was was that that the the crocodiles' crocodiles' brains brains became became burbot burbot livers; livers; the the escalopes escalopes of crocodile crocodile tail became became escalopes escalopes of salmon; salmon; and and the the omelette omelette of ofcrocodile crocodile eggs eggs became became omelette omelette d I'ambre l'ambre gris. To To crown crown it it all, ail, Favre Favre substituted substituted ordinary horsemeat horsemeat sausage sausage for for the the saucisson saucisson de de Lyon, Lyon, and and as as for for the the Isigny Isigny butter, butter, it it was was simply simply margarine. margarine. Hoaxes of the the Continental Continental Hoaxes dictated dictated by by events events - At At the the time time of System, System, beet beet sugar sugar took took the the place place of of cane cane sugar sugar (and (and still still does). During the the Second Second World World War, War, grape grape sugar sugar (which (which did does). During not not require require coupons) coupons) was was preferred preferred to to saccharin saccharin as as a substitute substitute for for ordinary ordinary sugar. sugar. Certainly Certainly the the most most famous famous period under this this heading heading was was the the Siege Siege of of Paris Paris 1870-1871. 1870-1871. period under Because Because of of the the lack lack of of food food people people had had to to have have recourse recourse to to substitutes, which, as number of ofwhich, as presented presented by by the the best best chefs, chefs, substitutes, a a number gave fortunate few. few. The The gave some sorne pleasant pleasant evenings evenings to to the the fortunate mutton-flavoured mutton-flavoured rat rat is is famous, famous, but but the the equally equally famous famous elephant elephant pie pie was, was, in in fact, fact, made made with with mice. mice. It It seemed seemed to to be be the the general general opinion opinion that that the the zoological zoological gardens gardens possessed possessed a a whole troop of ofelephants elephan ts (instead (instead of of only only two) two) to to provide provide the the whole troop wherewithal wherewithal to to fill fill all ail the the pies. pies. And And it it was was a a bone, bone, a a mouse's mouse's bone, that led led to to the the discovery discovery of of what what lay lay bone, found found in in a a pie pie dish dish that at at the the bottom bottom of of the the affair. affair. But But it it was was very very good. good. And And that, that, after after all, ail, was was the the main main thing. thing. And what about about the the concierge concierge in in Paris Paris who, who, in in 1917, 1917, raised raised And what a that he he could could sell sel! dozens dozens offresh offresh eggs eggs daily? daily? a few few chickens chickensso so that The prototype prototype is is certainly certainly the the 'bouri'bouriThe practical practical ioke joke - The The bout', a a dish dish invented invented comparatively comparatively recently recently by by the the humhumbout', orist orist Henry Henry Monier. Monier. He He had had discussed discussed the the dish dish with with some sorne of of his hisjournalist journalist colleagues, colleagues, gastronomes gastronomes like like himself, himself, mentionmentioning ing that that there there was was no no restraurant restraurant in in Paris Paris where where it it could could be be found. found. A A restaurateur restaurateur upon upon hearing hearing this this declared dec1ared that that he he prepare it. it. The The late late Marius Marius Richard Richard described described knew how how to to prepare knew theevent event in in his his column, column, praising praising the the marvellous marvel10us dish dish eaten eaten in in the the same same restaurant. restaurant. And And they they say say that that Monier Monier himself himself was was the quite quiteastonished astonished to toknow know that that the'bouribort' the 'bouribout' was was nothing nothing but but a duck duck with with cherries. cherries, otherwise otherwise known known as as canard canard d la la a Montmorency. Montmorency.

HOG'S HOG'S FAT. pfi.ttts PANNE - The fat which covers the pig's kidneys and fillets. fillets. It is used for making fine fine forcemeats and and black black (blood) produces superior down it (blood) puddings. puddings. Rendered Rendered down it produces quality lard which in French is called axonge.

rtrs TTE or DE poRc PORC - A kind of galantine (q.v.)

head.

HOG'S IIEAD CIIEESE or PORK PTORK DRA BRAWN. HEAD CHEESE WN.

FRoMAcE DE FROMAGE

made from hog's

HOLLAND HOLLAND - See INTERNATIONAL COOKERY. COOKERY. HOLLANDAISESAUCEHOLLANDAISE SAUCE - Name of made with of a hot sauce saucemadewith
egg egg yolks yolks and and butter. butter.

It It is is served served with with eggs, eggs, fish and and vegetables.

(See SAUCE.) SA UCE.)

HOLL Y. Horx HOUX - Evergreen shrubs. shrubs. In In sorne HOLLY. some countries, notably Corsica, Corsica, holly berries berries are are roasted and and powdered notably
and are are used used to make make a 6dn16 drink similar similar to coffee. and excellent clear holly spirit produced in Alsace. Alsace. There is an excellent Butcher's-broom or or kneeholly. knee-hoUy. noux-tnftol, HOUX -FRLON, perrr-Hor-rx PETIT-HOUXButcher's.broom

European plant used used in in pharmacy. pharmacy. Its Its root root has has diuretic European properties. The young young shoots shoots of of the plant are edible and can properties. The be cooked cooked in the the same way as as asparagus. asparagus. be

HOLL YHOCK. ,l'rcfs ALCE - Plant originating originating in in Lebanon. Lebanon. It HOLLYHOCK. has an appreciable appreciable nutritive content. content. A nourishing starch has flour is is obtained obtained from its roots. flour

HONEY. MIEL MIEL - Sweet liquid liquid manufactured manufactured in the sac sac of of the HONEY. worker bee bee from from the nectar nectar secreted in certain certain flowers and worker introduced by by the the insect insect into into the the cells of of the the hive. Honey was introduced of ancient ancient times when when cane sugar sugar was a the chief chief sweet sweet food food of the rarity. rarity. It is is a a particularly particularly energising energising food, food, providing providing 300 300 calories It per 100 100 g. g. The sugars it contains contains are completely completely assimilable per by the the body. body. Honey Honey contains contains hardly hardly any any vitamins; vitamins; only only in the by proportion of of 2 mg. to to 100 100 g. g. proportion Several grades grades of of honey honey are are sold sold commercially: Several 1. Virgin Virgin or or superfine superfine honey, honey, extracted from the the combs combs by l. exposure to to the the sun sun or or gentle gentle heat. heat. exposure 2. Common Common or or yellow yellow honey, honey, extracted extracted under under greater greater heat. heat. 2. 3. Brown Brown honey, honey, extracted extracted by by pressure pressure under under heat. heat. 3. Honey is is a a very very rich rich and and concentrated concentrated food. food. Its effect is is Honey similar to to that that of of sugar sugar but but it it is is more more readily readily assimilated. similar Apart from from this, this, it it is is medically medically prescribed prescribed or or prohibited prohibited in in Apart and in particular particular is is forbidden forbidden to the same same cases cases as as sugar, sugar, and the diabetics. It It is is slightly slightly laxative. laxative. diabetics. that of children, children, honey honey can take take the In diet, diet, especially especially that In place of of sugar sugar in in almost almost all ail its its uses, uses, though though there there are are people people place who find find it it indigestible. indigestible. who

HOCCO -- Type Type of of gallinaceous gallinaceous bird bird of of which which there there are are a a HOCCO ofCentral Central dozenspecies speciesto tobe befound found in in the theequatorial equatorial regions regions of dozen America. They Theyare aresimilar similarto to the theEuropean European turkey turkey and and have have a a America. certain number number are are bred bred in in the the delicious white white flesh. flesh. A A certain delicious poultry-runs of ofFrance. France. poultry-runs ln his his Souvenirs Souvenirs d'imigration, d'migration, Brillat-Savarin Brillat-Savarin mentions mentions In ofwild turkey and and remarks remarks upon upon its its succulent succulent flesh. flesh. thiskind kind of this wild turkey Itis iscooked cooked in inthe thesame sameway wayas asturkey turkey (q.v.). (q.v.). It HOG-FISH. RAScASSE RASCASSE - Fish Fish oblong oblong in in shape shape and and rather rather HOG-FISH.
but mostly mostly greyish greyish with with black black markings. markings. The The Provengal Provenal but 456 456
Hocco

highbacked, backed,with wi thaa large largeand and spiny spinyhead. head. It 1thas hasspikes, spikes,whose w hose high prick is is poisonous, poisonous, on on its its dorsal dorsal fins. fins. Its Its colouring colouring is is varied, varied, prick

HORS.D'(EUVRE HORS-D'UVRE
The The quality, quality, consistency, consistency, aroma aroma and and flavour flavour of of honey honey vary varyaccording according to tothe the type type of offlowers flowersmost mostwidespread widespreadin inthe the region is gathered. gathered. The The best best is is made made from from the the region where where it it is nectar nectar of of labiates labiates (thyme, (thyme, mother mother of of thyme). thyme). Narbonne Narbonne honey honey owes owesits itsdistinctive distinctive flavour flavoU! to to the the nectar nectar of ofrosemary. rosemary. The Themost mosthighly highlyreputed reputed honey honeyis isthat thatof ofHymetus Hymetusin inGreece, Greece, France that that of ofNarbonne, Narbonne, Gfltinais, Gtinais, Champagne Champagne and and and in in France and Savoy. Spring Spring honey honey is is superior superior to to autumn autumn honey. honey. Savoy. Certain impart a a distinctive distinctive flavour ftavour to to honey honey which which Certainplants plants impart is is sometimes sometimes unpleasant unpleasant (for (for instance, instance, honey honey gathered gathered from from pines, made from from the the pines, which which has has a a resinous resinous taste). taste). Honey Honey made nectar of of poisonous poisonous plants plants such such as as belladonna belladonna can can itself itself be be nectar poisonous. poisonous.
HONGROISE HONGROISE (A ( LA) LA) - Dishes Dishes prepared prepared d la la hongroise hongroise arc are cooked in in a a cream cream sauce sauce seasoned seasoned with with paprika. paprika. Eggs, Eggs, fish, fish, cooked meat meat (other (other than than pork pork products), products), poultry, poultry, etc., etc., can can be be preprepared pared d la la hongror'se. hongroise. Recipes Recipes for for these these dishes dishes are are given given in in appropria te headings. headings. alphabetical order order under under appropriate alphabetical
delicate, delicate, especially especially when when served served before before a a rather rather heavy heavy menu menu consisting consisting of ofaa number number of ofcourses. courses. With hors-d'uvre may may be be more more With a a light light luncheon, luncheon, the the hors-d'euvre substantial substantial and and nourishing. nourishing. horsandhot hors'd'euvre cold There main types: types: cold hors-d'uvre and hot horsThere are are two two main d'euvre. d'uvre. Cold Cold hors-d'euvre, hors-d'uvre, usually usually served served with with luncheon, luncheon, are are of of two two kinds: kinds: those those which which can canbe be bought bought ready ready for for the the table table and and home. preparation at those those which which require require some sorne preparation at home. Formerly, Formerly, hot hot hors-d'euvre hors-d'uvre wete were called called entrdes entres volantes volantes ot or petites petites enties. entres. They They generally generally formed formed part part of of the the dinner dinner menu, menu, and and were were served served after after the the soup. soup. Hot Hot hors'd'euvre hors-d'uvre can, can, however, however, be be served served at at luncheon luncheon at at the the same same time time as as cold cold hors-d'euvre hors-d'uvre. Nowadays, Nowadays, it it is is customary customary to to serve serve a a wide wide variety variety of of horshorsd'euvre at the the beginning beginning of of a a luncheon. luncheon. d'uvre at from Russia, imported custom a France France has has also also adopted adopted a custom imported from Russia, of of serving serving hors-d'euvre hors-d'uvre in in a a special special way; way; as as zakouski' zakouski, a a kind kind hors'd'euvre, up of made entirely meal, meal-before-the of of meal-before-the meal, entirely made up of hors-d'uvre, washed washed down down with with liberal liberal draughts draughts of of wine wine and and liqueur. liqueur. Formerly, Formerly, in in Russia, Russia, this this was was served served in in an an ante-chamber ante-chamber adjoining adjoining the the dining dining room. room. In In France, France, the the custom custom has has been been somewhat somewhat modified. modified. rasse, these d la hots-d'euvre Under Under the the name name of of zakouski zakouski or or hors-d'uvre la russe, these guests at the to the and served trays on snacks snacks are are arranged arranged on trays and served to the guests at the table table itself. itself. snacks must These snacks of cold Presentatim of - These Presentation cold hors-d'cuwe hors-d'uvre must be be presented presen ted elegantly. elegan tly . the hostess. help to hints a few Here Here are are a few hints to help the hostess. china sets' china hors'd'euvre sets, special hors-d'uvre from special Apart from l. The dishes. dishes. Apart 1. The plate may may gold or or silver silver plate or antique antique gold plates and glass plates dishes or and dishes or glass or porringers, pottery or silver porringers, or silver plates, pottery rustic-style plates, Old rustic-style be used used. be . Old effectively. very effectively. used very can be be used etc, can bowls, etc, crystal bowls, crystal purely decorative, decorative, though purely garnishes. Gamishes, Garnishes, though 2. The The garnishes. 2. garnishes. great variety of such such garnishes. variety of is a a great There is edible. There all be be edible. must aIl must grve a very attractive attractive a very they give arranged, they and arranged, chosen and Tastefully chosen Tastefully garnish common garnish The most most common hors-d'euvte. The the hors-d'uvre. to the appearance to appearance used It can can be be used green and curly. It and curly. very green be very must be which must iJparsley, is parsley, which or chopped. chopped. in sprigs sprigs or in tarragon, garnished with chervil, tarragon, with chervil, be garnished canalso Hors-d'euvre can Hors-d'uvre also be greento these these greencontrast to As a a contrast hearts. As lettuce hearts. aod lettuce watercress and watercress used. Beetroot be used can be beetroot can and beetroot lemon and of lemon half slices slices of stuffs, half stuffs, . Beetroot ways. in other other ways. and in matchsticks and into matchsticks cut into diced, cut served diced, is served is any using any varied by by using be varied can be &ors'd'euvre can of hors-d'uvre decoration of The the decoration pomegranate seeds, seeds, gherkins, red red pomegranate capers, gherkins, following: capers, ofihe of the following: small or chopped), chopped), small quartered or (halved, quartered eggs (halved, hard-boiled eggs hard-boiled or chopped, chopped, rings or into rings sliced into onions pickled onions, large on onions, large pickled ions sliced peas, asparagus green peas, asparagus beans, green French beans, beans, French kidney beans, small kidney small radish, the the black radish, radishes, black turnips, radishes, and turnips, carrots and tips, boiled boiled carrots tips, peppers' green peppers, yellow, red red and and green leeks, yellow, of leeks, and stalks stalks of leaves and leaves etc. trufres, etc. mushrooms, truffies, mushrooms, can flowers can and colour, colour, ftowers form and in form greater variety variety in To achieve achieve greater To edible), (whose leaves arealso alsoedible), leaves are Nasturtiums (whose used. Nasturtiums be used. also be also the enhance the allenhance daisiesail and daisies chrysanthemums and violets, chrysanthemums borage, violets, borage, effect. decorative effect. decorative stated otherwisestated Unless otherwise hot hors-d'uvre hopd'cuweofhot Presentation of Presentation - Unless hothors-d'euvre particular item, item,hot toaaparticular relating to theentry entry relating under the under hors-d'uvre paperdoily, and doily, and oraapaper napkinor folded napkin dish, aafolded onaadish, areserved served on are their to their parsleyaccording according to fried parsley or fried fresh or garnished with with fresh garnished cromesquis fritters, cromesquis as fritters, such as &ors-d'euvresuch Fried hors-d'uvre nature. Fried nature. matchstick nestsof of matchstick in nests servedin beserved may be etc., may croquettes,etc., croquettes, potatoes. potatoes.
These FRoIDs- -These HoRs-D'GtryREFROIDS HORS-D'(EUVRE. HORS-D'UVRE COLD HORS-D'UVRE. COLD dice, cutinto intodice, ingredients, cut orseveral severalingredients, oneor ofone usually consist consistof usually mayonorwith withaamayondressingor vinegardressing anoil oiland andvinegar withan seasoned,with seasoned, pur6es specialpures forcemeats,special butters, forcemeats, sauce.Compound Compoundbutters, naisesauce. naise added. alsobe beadded. mayalso andsalpicons salpiconsmay and 457 457

HOP. HoLJBLoN HOUBLON - Hardy Hardy plant plant grown grown in in many many countries. countries. HOP. The cones cones of of the the female plant are used used in the the brewing brewing of of The beer. beer. Hop slroots. shoots. JETs JETS DE HouBLoN HOUBLON - In In French cookery, cookery, the the Hop namejets jets de de houblon houblon is is given given to the the edible edible flowers flowers of of the the male name plant, or panicles. The edible tip of the panicle is broken broken samewayas way as green green asparagus asparagus away from itswoody its woody stem stem in in the same awayfrom tips. of Hop shoots are boiled in salt water, with a few drops of lemon juice. Once they are cooked they can be treated in in a different ways: number of of different ln butter. Toss for a few seconds in butter. butter. In butter. cream. ln cream. Toss in butter and simmer in fresh cream. In in seconds III few seconds for a a few Simmer in butter. butter. Sim Toss in In stock. Toss ln stock. mer for concentrated brown brown veal stock. garnish with with vegetable or a gamish Hop shoots may be served as a vegetable with as a a garnish with used as various dishes. In In particular they are used eggs.

Branch of ofhop Branch hop cones with con with es

prized, hop hop is much much prized, this vegetable vegetable is In where this In Belgium, Belgium, where are always always vegetable, are served as as aa vegetable, shoots, are served when they they are shoots, when and ontop top and in aacircle circle on garnished with poached eggs arranged in eggsarranged garnished with poached cocks' inthe theshape shapeof ofcocks' cut in interspersed of bread bread cut cro0tons of interspersed with withcrotons combs and fried fried in inbutter. butter. combs and in the the panicles or not sold sold in are not In or shoots shootsare hop panicles In U.S.A. U.S.A. hop producing regions regions large hop hop producing some large market, aresorne but there there are market, but where found. theymay may be be found. where they upthe the toscrape scrape up utensil, used used to HORN. Little horn horn utensil, HORN. CORNE coRNE - - Little on marble marble oron remains in basins, basins, or in mortars, mortars, in remains of of mixtures mixtures in
slabs. slabs.
areaddiaddithesesnacks snacksare HORS-D'UVRE Bydefinition, definition, these HOR$D'(EWRE - - By lightand and belight tional They should therefore be should therefore tothe menu.They tional to themenu.

HORS-D'(EUVRE HORS-D'UVRE

Hors-d'uvre vegetables vegetables (Rare (Robert Carrier) Hors-d'ceuvre rt Carrier)

458

HORS-D'(EUVRE HORS-D'UVRE

some Sorne cold cold hors-d'ceuvre: hors-d'uvre: salad salad of of ox 0,; muzzle, muzzle, artichokes articbokes d la la grecque, grecque, mushrooms, mushrooms, cucumber cucumbcr

according to method of preparation after this this varies varies according to the method particular dish for which they are intended. and different For hors-d'euvre hors-d'uvre and different garnishes. garnishes. Soak Soak the the anFor above. Scrape and clean chovies and cut them into fillets fiUets as above. removed. have been removed. scales have weIl to ensure all the scales ensure that ail them well Dry cloth. Dry lightly lightly in a clotho whole, them who leave them or leave small strips strips or Cut fillets into le, into small the fillets 1 Cut the according to the dish for which they are intended. terrine. Cover dish or or terrine. a deep deep dish Arrange anchovy fillets in a fillets in with olive oil. Put the lid on the dish and keep in a cool place.
1

The following foIlowing are are the the most most lsval usual hors-d'euvre' hors-d'uvre. The Aceto-dolce - See Sozr-sweet Sour-sweet pickles pickles below. AcetodolceAllumettes - See Pastry Pastry straws straws below. below. Allumettes Anchovies. ANcHoIS ANCHOIS - These must must first first be be freed from salt. Anchovies. stuffings, For dffirent different mixtures mixtures (compound (compound butters, butters, stuffings, For pur6es, pures, salpicons, salpicons, sauces, etc.). Wash Wash the anchovies, soak sauces, etc.). them in cold water, cut into fillets, clean and dry them. The thern

Use as indicated. Er OEUFS oEUFS ,c,NcHots ET I. ANCHOIS Anchovies hard-boiled eggs eggs I. and hard-boiled Anchovies and anchovy third anchovy and one one third DURS DuRs - Two thirds hard-boiled eggs and vinegar, salt, salt, with oil, oil, vinegar, fillets Season with dice. Season small dice. fillets cut cut into into small mayonnaise' pepper and finely chopped chopped herbs, or with mayonnaise. Attx OEUFS oEUFs II. ANCHOIS lNcnots AUX Anchovies eggs ll. hard-boild eggs Anchovies and and hard-boiled (see below). Garnish below). Garnish in oil oil (see DURS for Anchovies in as for DuRs -- Proceed Proceed as chopped eggs chopped with yolks and of hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs and white white of the yolks with the parsley. separately, and chopped chopped parsley. capers and separately, capers of marinated marinated garnish and decoration of The and decoration The dressing, dressing, garnish additional from the the additional Apart from anchovy varied. Apart can be be varied. fillets can anchovy fillets can be be items can variety of of other other items ingredients a variety above, a mentioned above, ingredients mentioned (see CHIFFONNADE), CHIFFONNADE), used, chffinnade (see used, e.g. e.g. Lettuce Lettuce chiffonnade etc. 1 olives, tarragon, etc. chervil, tarragon, lemon, chervil, olives, beetroot, beetroot, lemon, fresh Put fresh grecque. ANCHOIS A LA t,l GRECQUE cnBcQue -- Put 1 Ancbovies ANcHoIs la grecque. Anchovies i ]a hours. for 2 2 hours. into salt salt for anchovies, in a a cloth, cloth, into dried in and dried cleaned and anchovies, cleaned to ensure ensure individually to Soak shake them them individually and shake in cold water, and Soak in cold water, in smoking smoking oil. oil. only in that I minute minute only for 1 Sear for off. Sear falls off. that all all the the salt salt falls in aa terrine. terrine. layers in in layers Drain and arrange arrange in Drain the the anchovies anchovies and sweet bay, bay, thyme, sweet [ Each with thyme, be sprinkled sprinkled with layer should should be Each layer (see II (see grains. Make coriander pepper grains. Make Court-bouillon Court'bouillon II coriander and and pepper the pour, while over the COURT-BOUILLON) still boiling, boiling, over while still and pour, COURT-BOUILLON) and 24 hours. hours. anchovies. for 24 this court-bouillon them in in this court-bouillonfot Marinate them anchovies. Marinate the marinade, marinade, Serve with the dish. Sprinkle Sprinkle with in an hors-d'ezvre dish. Serve in an hors-d'uvre freshly with freshly peeled lem sprinkle with garnish on and and sprinkle garnish with lemon of peeled with slices slices of cbopped fennel. chopped fennel. d d'anchois as Escabche Escabiche d'anchois In known as is also also known this dish dish is In France France this la grecqte. la grecque. A LA LA NORMANDE NoRMANDE - Ancbovies lucHors la normande. normande. ANCHOIS Archovies i la (q.v.) of of Arrange onaasalpicon salpicon (q.v.) fillets on anchovyfillets the marinated marinated anchovy Arrange the withaa rennet Surround with with mayonnaise. mayonnaise. Surround apples seasoned seasoned with rennet apples thin withaathin border Dress with dice. Dress very small smalldice. cut into into very border of of beetroot beetroot cut trickle ofoil. trickle of oil. Norwegian - These (kilkis).ANCHOIS DsNORVGE NoRvtcB-These ANcHoIsDE anchovies(kilkis). Norwegian anchovies an onan prepared. Arrang~ anchovies on can the anchovies Arrangethe ready prepared. can be bought ready be bought
1 1

slices of hors-d'euvre hors-d'uvre dish dish and and surround surround with with half half slices of lemons lemons cut cut with Sprinkle with a fluted with with a fluted cutter, cutter, and and with with fresh fresh parsley. parsley. Sprinkle several tablespoons tablespoons of of their their marinade. marinade. in ail all ways ways kilkis can Norwegian anchovies ot Norwegian anchovies or kilkis can be be used used in indicated indicated for for anchovies anchovies in in brine. brine. from anchovies from A r'surrE oil. ANCHOIS eNcnots Anchovies in ol. - Free Anchovies L'HUlLE Free anchovies in dish, in onan hors-d'euvre dish, strips. Arrange salt. Cut Cut into salt. into thin thin strips. Arrange on an hors-d'uvre parsley. Dress Dress chopped parsley. pattern. Garnish capers and and chopped with capers Garnish with a pattern. a of oil. oil. with a a thin trickle of with thin trickle p'ANcHoIs -- Anchovy Anchovy sALADEs D'ANCHOIS various. SALADES Anchovy salads, saladq various. Ancbovy salad. by a salado accompanied bya eggs accompanied hard-boiled eggs in oil with hard-boiled fillets in oil or with great variety variety of of a great with a be served served with can be salad can Anchovy salad Anchovy (see CHIFFONNADE), boiled CHIFFONNADE), boiled chffinnade (see dishes: Lettuce chiffonnade dishes: a fine fine cut into into a dice, celeriac celeriac cut or dice, potatoes cut fine slices slices or into fine cut into potatoes julienne (q.v.), (q.v.), etc. etc. julienne the ananare accompaniments; accompaniments; the additions are various additions These various These the dish. dish. chovies dominate the chovies Free anchovy anchovy o'ANcHoIs -- Free PAUPIETTES D'ANCHOIS scrolls. PAUPIETTES Anchovy seroUs. A.nchovy the fillets fillets Flatten the a clotho cloth. Flatten dry in in a and dry from salt, salt, scrape, scrape, and fillets from pur6e or other or any any other of fish fish pure layer of a thin thin layer with a coat them them with and coat and into the fillets fillets into Roll the hors-d'euvre. Roll for cold cold hors-d'uvre. suitable for mixture suitable scrolls. serolls. garnish with the with the and garnish dish and hors-d'euvre dish in an an hors-d'uvre Arrange them them in Arrange separately, chopped separately, yolks and hard-boiled eggs eggs chopped of hard-boiled and whites whites of yolks of oil. oil. trickle a thin thin trick parsley. Dress with a Dress with chopped parsley. and chopped capers, and capers, le of nATEo'ANcHoIs BATEPAUPIETTES D'ANCHOIS scrolls. PAUPIETfES anchovy serous. Bargemants anchovy Bargeman's tunny with tunny them with and stuff stuff them scrolls and anchovy scrolls Make anchovy r.rinu -- Make LIRE them Arrange them mayonnaise. Arrange (tuna fish) pur6e blended with mayonnaise. blendd with fish) pure (tuna with aa Garnish with shells. Garnish barquette shells. baked barquette in small small baked two in two by by two two gherkins, seasoned seasoned and gherkins, eggs and hard-boiled eggs with hard-boiled made with salpicon made salpicon garnish paper doyley and garnish doyley and a paper on a Arrange on with mayonnaise. mayonnaise. Arrange with parsley. with fresh fresh parsley. with MoND'^nNcHots MONPAUPIETTES D'ANCHOIS scrolls. PAUPIETTES anchovy serolls. Monselet anchovy Monselet the with the made with stuffing made with aa stuffing scrolls with Fill anchovy anchovy serolls sELEr -- Fill SELET toasted on aatoasted each scroll scroll on Arrange each yolks of eggs. Arrange hard-boiled eggs. of hard-boiled yolks (seeBUTTER, BUTTER, butter (see Anchovy butter with Anchovy covered with of bread bread covered canapi of canap butters). Compound butters). Compound put aasmall small and put capers and ringof of capers with aaring scrolls with the scroIls Surround the Surround in each. each. tarragon in sprig of of tarragon sprig parsley. garnish with fresh parsley. with fresh paper doyley and garnish doyley and on aa paper Arrange on Arrange ALA rl D'aNcHoIs PAUPIETTEs D'ANCHOIS nigoise. PAUPIETTES la nioise. scrolls i la Anchovy serolls Anchovy (see butter (see Tarragonbutter withrTarragon scrolls withanchovy scrolls NIgoIsE -- Fill Fill anchovy NIoISE butter). Compound butter). BUTTER, Compound BUTTER, twoand twothemand marinate them raw tomatoes, tomatoes,marinate small raw Hollow small Hollow inthe the pur6e. Place thescrolls scrolls in Place the fish pure. with aa fish thirds fill fill each each with thirds pur6e. of fish pure. thefoundation foundationoffish tomatoeson onthe tomatoes dishand and hors-d'euvre dish onan anhors-d'uvre Arrangeon taste. Arrange to taste. Decorate to Decorate ofoil. oil. trickle of dresswith with aatrickle dress vATEL- -Stuff Stuff o'ANcHoIs VATEL PAUPIETTEs D'ANCHOIS scrolls. PAUPIETTES Vatel ancbovy anchovyserolls. Vatel (seeBUTTER, ComBUTTER,Combutter(see Anchovybutter withAnchovy anchovy scrolls scrollswith anchovy added. hasbeen beenadded. tarragon has which chopped chopped tarragon poundbutters) towhich butters) to pound two-thirds puffpastry. Fillthese thesetwo-thirds pattycases ofpuff casesof Makesmall small patty Make pastry. Fill

4s9 459

HORS-D'(EUVRE HORS-D'UVRE
with a salpicon of marinated tunny (tuna fish) and truffies with a salpicon of marinated tunny (tuna fish) and truffles seasoned with mayonnaise. Put I scroll on each patty, and a seasoned with mayonnaise. Put 1 scroU on each patty, and a sliver of trufre on each scroll, topped with a dot of butter topped with a dot of butter sliver of truffle on each scroll, mixed with the yolk of hard-boiled eggs. mixed witb the yolk of hard-boiled eggs. Arrange on paper doyley and garnish with fresh parsley. Arrange on aapaper doyley and garnisb with fresh parsley. Artichokes. ARTTcHAUN Small artichokes, quartered artichokes,quartered Articbokes. ARTICHAUTS - - Small artichokes and hearts of artichokes, prepared according to articbokes and hearts of artichokes, prepared according to the methods described under the heading ARTICHOkE, the methods described under the heading ARTICHOKE, can be used as ingredients for a variety of hors-d'euvre. can be used as ingredients for a variety of hors-d'uvre.
Artichoke hearts heartsmay garnishedwith maybe begarnished withdifferent differentpures purees Artichoke andwith withcaviare. caviare.Arrange Arrangethe thehearts heartsin inan anhors-d'uvre hors-d'euvredish. dish. and Decoratewith with fresh parsley,hard-boiled fresh parsley, hard-boiled eggs, eggs,chopped Decorate chopped jelly,etc. etc. jelly, Artichokehearts heartsi la grecque. FONDS lagrecque. FoNDs D'ARTICHAUTS D'ARTTcHAUTs ALA Artichoke LA cREceuE- -Proceed Proceodas asindicated indicated for forArtichokes grecque, Artichokesdla Iagrecque, GRECQUE using very verysmall smallartichoke artichoke hearts heartsor orlarge largehearts heartscut using iutinto into slices. slices. Artichoke hearts heartsi la Iatartare. tartare. FONDS FoNDsD'ARTICHAUTS D'ARTrcHAUrs Artichoke ALA u TARTARE - - Cook Cookartichoke artichokehearts heartsin inaawhite whitecourt-bouillon court-bouillon TARTARE (q.v.);drain, drain,dry dry and andcut cut into into slices. slices.Arrange Arrange in inan anhorshors(q.v.); d'euvre dish dishwith with Tartare Tartare sauce (ser-,SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). d'uvre Garnish with with aaborder yolks of border of of the theyolks ofhard-boiled hard-boiled eggs eggs and and Garnish parsley,arranged chopped parsley, arranged in inseparate separate rows. rows. Surround Surround with with chopped half slices of ofcooked cooked beetroot, beetroot, cut cutwith withaa fiuted-edged fluted-edged knife. knife. halfslices artichokes. QUARTIERS D'ARTrcHAUrs -- Tender Quartered articbokes. euARTrERs D'ARTICHAUTS Tender Quartered quartered artichokes prepared as artichokes are are prepared as an an hors-d'uvre, hors-d'euvre, quartered following the instructions given the instructions given for for artichoke artichoke hearts hearts and following and whole artichokes. artichokes. whole Assiette anglaise anglaise -- Assortment Assortment of of different different kinds kinds of of cold cold Assiette meat, usually usually York York ham; ham; pickled pickled tongue; tongue; entrecte, entrec6te, fiUet fillet or or meat, roast beef; beef; veal; veal; pork, pork, arranged arranged on plate. on a a plate. roast jelly, watercress Garnish with with chopped chopped jelly, gherkins. watercress and and gherkins. Garnish Assiette anglaise anglaise is is mainly mainly served served for for luncbeon luncheon. Assielle . Assorted bors-d'uvre. hors-d'cuvre. ASSIETTE ASSIETTE ASSORTIE, AssoRTIE, ASSIETTE ASSIETTE vOvoAssorted LANTE An assortment assortment of of different different kinds kinds of of hors-d'uvre, hors-d'euvre, LANTE - An mainly salted salted items, items, cut cut into very very small small slices. slices. mainly BarErettes Small oval-shaped oval-shaped patties patties made made of of pastry, Barquettes - Small baked blind, garnished with blind, garnished with ditferent (see BARdifferent fillings fillings (see BARbaked Items whicb which can be used as garnishes for QUETTES). Items for pastry QUETTES). boats include include anchovy anchovy in in salpicon salpicon or or anchovy anchovy scrolls, boats scrolls, smoked eel, eel, beetroot, beetroot, special special compound compound butters butters for for horssmoked d'Guure, caviare, pickled cucumber, caviare, pickled cucumber, prawns, prawns, shrimps, d'uvre, crayfish, foie gras, pickled herrings, herrings, lobster lobster and and crawfish, crawfiih, gras, pickled crayfish, different vegetables in ditferent vegetables in salpicon or cut into slices, poached mussels, eggs, plovers' eggs, mussels, olives, olives, hard-boiled eggs, eggs, red red and green different sausages, green peppers, peppers, different sausages, marinated marinated tunny, tunny, tomatoes, matoes, truffies. truffies. The The following following serve serve as as decorations decorations for for these these various various pastry pastry boats: boats: capers, capers, gherkins, gherkins, beetroot, beetroot, chopped chopped jelly, jelly, hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs, eggs, fresh fresb parsley, parsley, chervil, chervil, tarragon, tarragon, lettuce. lettuce. The The following following are a few examples. All Ali recipes recipes given for filling canaps and and tartlets tartlets apply apply to to barquettes,which barquelles, which filling patties, patties, canapis are are generally generally served served on on a a paper paper doyley. doyley. On On the the menu menu they they are are often often called called frivolitis, frivolits, a a name name originally originally given given them them by by Escoffier. Escoffier. Bagratiu ETTEs BAcRATToN Bagration barErettes. barquettes. BARet BARQUETTES BAGRATION - Garnish Garnish the the barquetres barquelles with with a a thin thin layer layer of of cold Chicken Chicken purie pure (see (see CHICKEN). CHICKEN). Cover Coyer this this pur6e pure alternately alternately with with thin thin slices slices of of breast breast of of chicken chicken and and truffies. truffles. Spoon Spoon half-set half-set jelly jelly into into the tbe barquettes. barquelles. Beauharnais Beauharnais barqrettes. barquettes. BAReTJETTES BARQUETTES BEAUHARNATs BEAUHARNAIS - GarGarnish barquelles with with a a salpicon salpicon of ofbreast breast of of chicken chicken and and nish the the barquettes trufles. truffles. Cover Coyer this this garnish garnish with witb a a layer layer of of mayonnaise, mayonnaise, to to which of tarragon tarragon and and a a little little gelatine gelatine has has been been whicb a a puree pure of added. added. Decorate Decorate with with tiny tiny pieces pieces of oftrufres truffles and and cover coyer with with jelly. jelly. BarErettes Barquettesi la lacancalaise cancalaise-- Garnish Garnish the thebarquetteJ barquelleswith with aa mousse moussemade madefrom from whiting whitingor orother otherwhite whitefish. fish .poach, Poach, drain drain and in each each and trim trim some sorne oysters. oysters. Lay Lay these these on on the the mousse mousse in barquette barquelleand and spoon spoonover oversome sornejelly. jeUy. Marivaux Marivaux barErettes. barquettes. BAReuETTEs BARQUETIES MARTVAUx MARIVAUX -- Fill Fil! the the barquettes barquelles with witb a a salpicon salpicon of of shrimps shrimps and and mushrooms, mushrooms, blended blended with with gelatine-strengthenod gelatine-strengthened mayonnaise. mayonnaise. Decorate Decorate with withrounds roundsof ofhard-boiled bard-boiledeggs eggsand andchervil. chervil.Coat Coatwith withjelly. jelly. Barquettes Barquettesi la lanormande normande-- Garnish Garnishthe thebarquettes barquelleswith withaa salpicon salpiconof offillets fiUetsof ofsole, sole,mussels musselsand andtrufles. truffies. Coat Coat the the barquettes barquelles with with aa white white meatless meatless Chaud-froid Chaud-froid

Artichokes Artichokes

Artichokes BaronBrisse. ARTTcHAUTs BARoN-BRrsss - Cut Artichokes Baron-Brisse. ARTICHAUTS BARON-BRlSSE - Cut the hearts of artichokes into thin slices and cook them the hearts of artichokes into slices and cook them lightly for a few moments inthin boiling oil, oil, moving moving them them lightly for a few moments in boiling around. Moisten with a few tablespoons of Tomato-essence few tablespoons of Tomato essence around. Moisten with a (see ESSENCE). Add lemon juice, salt, pepper, parsley and (see ESSENCE). Add lemon juice, salt, pepper, parsley and chopped chervil. Boil together for a few minutes-. chopped cberviJ. Boil together for a few minutes. Leave to cool. Arrange on an hors-d'euvre dish with Leave to cool. Arrange on an hors-d'uvre dish with rounds of peeled lemon. rounds of peeled lemon. Artichokes i la greque. ARrrcHAUrs A rB cnnceus Trim Artichokes la grecque. ARTICHAUTS LE GRECQUE - Trim 20 small tender artichokes (see ARTICHOKE). Flavour 20 small tender artichokes (see ARTICHOKE). Flavour with lemon and plunge one after the other into a liquid with lemon and plunge one after the other into a liquid prepared as follows: prepared as follows: Boil together . Boil togetber for for 5 5 minutes minutes in in a a casserole casserole 5 5 dl. dl. (scant (scant pint, pint, cunO water, I dl. (6 tablespoons, scant $ cup) oiive oit', tne l* 2* cups) water, 1 dl. (6 tablespoons, scant t cup) olive oil, the juice of I lemon, a pinch of salt, l0 coriander seeds, l0 pepperjuice of 1lemon, a pinch of salt, 10 coriander seeds, 10 pepperc9rns, 1nd a large bouquet garni composed of paisley, corns, and a large bouquet garni composed of parsley, thyme, bay leaf, celery and fennel. tbyme, bay leaf, celery and fenne!. Cook the in this this court-bouillon court-bouillon for for 18 18 to to 20 20 Cook the artichokes artichokes in minutes. Take them out of the liquor and keep in a cool minutes. Take them out of the liquor and keep in a cool place. Arrange on an hors-d'euvre dish and serve as cold as place. Arrange on an hors-d'uvre dish and serve as cold as possible - iced if desired. possible - iCed if desired. Tbis hors-d'euvre keeps fairly well, particularly if the This hors-d'uvre keeps fairly weIl, particularly if the artichokes are put in a narrow pickling jar and kept in a very articbokes are put in a narrow picklingjar and kept in a very place. cool cool place. For For a a larger larger quantity quantity (100 (100 artichokes) artichokes) sel see ARTICHOKE, Pickled artichokes d la grecque. ARTICHOKE, Pickled artichokes la grecque. Artichokes i ta poiwade. ARTrcHAurs A LA porvRADE _ Articbokes la poivrade. ARTICHAUTS LA POIVRADE Nnme given to a dish of small young artichokes eaten raw Name given to a dish of small young artichokes eaten raw with Vinaigrette sauce (see SAUCE) strongly flavoured with with Vinaigrelle sauce (see SAUCE) strongly flavoured with pepper. pepper. Artichoke i la vinaigrette. ARrrcHAUrs A r.l vrNArcRETrE Articboke la vinaigrette. ARTICHAUTS LA VINAIGRETTEAnother name for Artichokes d la poivrade. Another name for Artichokes la poivrade. Boiled artichokes, either hot or cold, accompanied by a Boiled artichokes, eitber hot or cold, accompanied by a Vinoigrette sauce (see SAUCE), are also served under this Vinaigrelle sauce (see SAUCE), are also served under this name. name. Gamished artichoke hearts. FoNDs D'ARTrcnAUTs cARMs _ Gamisbed articboke bearts. FONDS D'ARTICHAUTS GARNISPrepare and cook very small artichoke hearts (see ARTIPrepare and cook very small artichoke hearts (see ARTIcHoKE). CHOKE). Drain Drain and and dry dry them. them. Garnish Garnish with with vegetable vegetable salad, salad, asparagus tips, different salpicons (q.v.), etc.; dress with asparagus tips, different salpicons (q.v.), etc.; dress with mayonnaise or vinaigrette sauce. mayonnaise or vinaigrelle sauce.
460 460

HORS.D'(EUVRE HORS-D'UVRE
sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Put Put 1 poached poached oyster oyster and and 2 2 shelled shelled crayfish crayfish tails tails on on each each boat. boat. Spoon Spoon over over some sorne jelly. jelly.

slices. Serve Serve in in an an hors-d'euvre hors-d'uvre dish or or on on a a plate, plate, arranged arranged slices. flat fiat or or rolled ralled into into cornets. cornets. Garnish Garnish with with parsley. parsley. Smoked Smoked beef beef is is also also used used as as a a garnish garnish for for canapis. canaps.
Beehoot. Beetroot. BETTERAvE BETTERAVE - Beetroot Beetroot can can be be bought bought cooked cooked in in greengrocers' greengrocers' shops shops or or it it can can be be prepared prepared at at home. home. It It is is mainly mainly used used for for salads. salads. slices. Arrange Peel cooked beetroot Peel the thecooked beetroot and and cut cut it it into into thin thinslices. Arrange in in an an hors-d'uuvre hors-d'uvre dish. dish. Season Season with with oil, oil, vinegar, vinegar, salt salt and and pepper. pepper. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with chopped chopped parsley. parsley. Beetroot cassolettes cassolettes - See See BEETROOT. BEETROOT. Beetroot Beetroot Beetroot i lacrime. la crme. BETTERAYE BETTERAVE A u, LA cnilc CRME - Cut Cut the the beetbeetroot root into fine fine matchsticks. matchsticks. Season Season with with a a Mustard Mustard cre(xn cream euvre dish. (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Serve in in hors-d hors-d'uvre di~h. sauce (se Beetroot Beetroot and hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs. eggs. BETTERAVE BETTERAVE ET ET oELJFS OEUFS DURs DURS Take equal quantities of cooked beetroot beetroot and and hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs, both both cut into dice. Season as for Anchovies Anchovies and and hard hard boiled boi/ed eggs (see above). above). Beetroot Beetroot I la nomande. normande. BETTERAvE BETTERAVE A A LA NonMlNos NORMANDE - Cut Cut beetroot beetroot and tart apples apples into slices and arrange alternately alternately on an hors-d'euvre hors-d'uvre dish. dish. Surround Surround with with a ring ring of of chopped chives. Season with Vinaigrette sauce (see Season with (see SAUCE) made made with wi th cider cider vinegar. eor DE Beetroot Beetroot salad. salado slt SALADE DE BETTERAVE BETTERAVE - This salad is is served served with a a Vinaigrette or a a Cream sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) as as indiindisalad bowl' cated above. Serve Serve inanhors-d'euvre in an hors-d'uvre dish dish or or in a a salad bowl. Bonch6es- See Patties below. BouchescARNIES garnished. snlocHes Brioches, small gamished. BRIOCHES MIcNoNNES MIGNONNES GARNIESBrioches, (see BRIOCHE) out tAte (see d tte snnall Brioches Take very very small BRIOCHE) scoop out garnishes any of ofthe fill with any ofthe three-quarters of the dough and fill the garnishes similar preparations. usually served with tartlets and other similar preparations. as same vunrs-Prepare cHolrx VERTS Cabbagg green. CHOUX Cabbage, - Prepare in the sa me way as Red cabbage, below. mediumwash a a mediumTrim and and wash RoucE cnoux ROUGE Cabbage, red. CHOUX - Trim put them into into sized cabbage. Cut it into very fine small strips, put pint, li lt cups) boiling boiling vinegar. dl. (t pint, 3 dl. a dish and and pour over 3 a with oil, oil, and se season for 5 Drain and 5 hours. Drain well and and leave for Mix weil as on with and pepper. salt and it is is steeped steeped in in the be blanched blanched before it Red cabbage can can be Red vinegar. very a very pieces of make a garnished pieces of toast toast make Small garnished Canapes - Small Canaps ways. in two ways. be served served in They can can be hors-d'euvre. They attractive hors-d'uvre. attractive and cut cut the the sandwich loaf and offa crusts off Cut the crusts First method. method. Cut First a sandwich pieces of of into small small pieces the slices slices into Cut the slices. Cut thin slices. breadinto bread into thin without sides without on both both sides these on Toast these forms. Toast and forms. shapes and various various shapes browning. over over browning. plain or plain a compound compound or one side side with with a on one spread on When cool, cool, spread When to the the preparation, according according to suitable preparation, other suitable or any any other butter, butter, or Instructions accordingly. Instructions Garnish accordingly. desired. Garnish of canap canapi desired. kind kind of paper on a a paper Arrange on found below. below. Arrange be found can be for decorating decorating can for plate or dish. or dish. doyley, napkin, napkin, plate doyley, loaf of a a sandwich sandwich loaf large slices slices of Toast large method. Toast Second method. Second any or any with butter butter or spread with cool spread When sides. Wh on both both sides. lightly on Iightly en cool canapis of of cut into into canaps and cut preparation. Garnish, Garnish, and suitable preparation. other suitable other Decorate. various shapes. shapes. Decorate. various kind are are to to be be served, served, the same same kind great many of the muny canaps canapis of If aa great If The toast toast can can also also be be is recommended. recommended. The the second second method method is the brioche unsweetened brioche or with with ordinary ordinary unsweetened of black black bread bread or made of made (baked in possible). tin if if possible). in aa rectangular rectangular tin (baked may be be listed below, below, canaps canapis may recipes listed to the the recipes In addition addition to ln fish, of meat, meat, fish, kinds of Different kinds prepared in ways. Different many ways. in many prepared into or made made into into thin thin slices slices or cut into etc., cut truffies, etc., vegetables, truffles, vegetables, garnishes. used as as garnishes. can be be used salpicons, can salpicons, gherkins, eggs, capers, capers, gherkins, hard-boiled eggs, with hard-boiled Decorate canaps canapis with Decorate parsley, mushrooms, parsley, trufles, mushrooms, cucumber, truffies, olives, beetroot, beetroot, cucumber, olives, chervil, tarragon, tarragon, etc. etc. chervil,

Beef, BOEUF rr-rrraf FUM - Cut Cut the the meat meat into into very very thin thin Beef, moked. smoked. BoELJF

: radishes, Preparation Preparation of of various various canapEs canaps; radishes, tomatos. tomatoes, cucumber cucumber

rl

Archovy Anchovy canapescanaps - See See ANCHOVY. AN CHOVY. Aurora Aurora canap6s. canaps. clNlpfs CANAPS A L'AunoRE L'AURORE - Slice Slice a a round round ununsweetened sweetened brioche brioche loaf, loaf, toast, toast, and and spread spread with with yellow yellow butter. butter. smoked salmon, Garnish Garnish with with a a thin thin slice slice of of smoked salmon, put put a a round round of of beetroot beetroot in in the the middle, middle, sprinkle sprinkle with with minced minced yolk yolk of of hardhardsurround with boiled boiled egg, egg, and and surround with a a border border of of yellow yellow butter. butter. sandwich loaf, Canapds Canaps i la la bayonnaise bayonnaise - Slice Slice a a sandwich loaf, toast, toast, and and slices of spread with spread with parsley parsley butter. butter. Garnish Garnish with with very very thin thin slices of Bayonne Bayonne ham. ham. and loaf, toast, Slice a sandwich loaf, Canap6s i - Slice Canaps la la bordelaise bordelaise a sandwich toast, and cooked of cooked salpicon of witha Garnish with butter. Garnish with Shallot Shallot butter. spread with spread a salpicon of Paprika a border and surround surround with and lean lean ham, cdpes and cpes ha m, and with a border of Paprika (see BUTTER, butters). Compound butters). butter (see butter BUTTER, Compound a sandsandSlice a AU CAVIAR cAvIAR clttlpfs AU caviare. CANAPS with caviare. Canap6s witb - Slice Canaps slices the slices brioche; the unsweetened brioche; or unsweetened loaf, brown brown loaf wich Joaf, wich loaf or (s@ butter (see Caviare butter wfth Caviare spread with and spread Toast, and round. Toast, should be be round. should Surround butter. Surround fresh butter. or with fresh butters) orwith Compound butters) BUTTER, Compound BUTTER, Garnish the butter. Garnish of caviare caviare butter. high border border of fairly high a fairly with a with the pinch of of chives. chives. a pinch with a Sprinkle with fresh caviare. caviare. Sprinkle with fresh centre with centre pressed caviare, but caviare, but with pressed made with be made can also also be These canaps canapis can These so delicate. delicate. not be be so they will will not they the Follow the fcnrvtssEs - Follow eux CREVISSES c,c,NA,pts AUX canap6s. CANAPS Crayfish canaps. Crayfish butter (see below), Crayfish butter using Crayfish below), using canapis (see for Shrimp recipe for Shrimp canaps recipe instead tails instead crayfish tails and crayfish (see BUTTER, butters) and Compound butters) BUTTER, Compound (see shrimps. of shrimps. of rectangular loaf of of rectangular a dark dark rye Slice a la danoise danoise I la Canap6s rye loaf - Slice Canaps (see butter (see Horseradish butter with Horseradish spread with and spread toast, and shape, toast, shape, strips garnish thin with and butters), Compound BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound butters), and garnish with thin strips Separate of herring. Separate fillets ofherring. with fillets alternating with salmon alternating of smoked salmon ofsmoked a with a surround with and surround caviare, and little fresh fresh caviare, a little fish by by a of fish the strips strips of the chives. of chopped chopped chives. border of border a sandwich sandwich Slice a ARLEQUIN -- Slice c.lNlp6s ARLEQUTN canaps. CANAPS Harlequin canaps. Harlequin Garnish butter. Garnish compound butter. a compound with a spread with and spread loaf, toast, toast, and loaf, smoked eggs, smoked of hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs, and whites whites of yolks and with chopped chopped yolks with thin with aa thin parsley, etc. Surround with etc. Surround trufles, parsley, ham, truffies, tongue, ham, tongue, butter. of compound compound butter. border of border of different different mixture of garnished with a mixtur~ with a be garnished can be These canaps canap6s can These left-overs the left-overs prepared last, last, so so the garnish is is prepared preparations. The The garnish preparations. dish. this dish. up for for this used up be used can be ofspecial canap6s can of special canaps recipe the recipe Use the HARENGs -- Use Atrx HARENGS ceNrtpfs AUX Herring canaps. canapes. CANAPS Herring Herring (see ANCHOVY), substituting Herring ANCHOVY), substituting canapis (see for Anchovy Anchovy canaps for of fillets of and fillets butters) and (see BUTTER, Compound butters) BUTTER, Compound butter (see butter for the the anchovy. anchovy. herring for herring kinds of of garnished different kinds with different be garni can be canapis can These canaps These shed with herrings. herrings. and toast, and loat toast, sandwich loaf, Slice aasandwich la hollandaise hollandaise -- Slice I la Canapes Canaps fillets with fillets Garnish with roes. Garnish herring raes. pur6e of soft herring of soft spread with with aa pure spread

461

HORS.D(EUVRE HORS-DUVRE

of herring arranged in criss-cross pattern. pattern.Fill Filleach each of herring arranged in aacriss-cross opening with chopped parsley. opening with chopped parsley. CanapesLaguipilre- I ozenge-shapd, canapis of ordinary Canaps Laguipire - Lozenge-shaped canaps of ordinary unsweetened brioche bread, toasted, and spread witir unsweetened bread, toasted, and spread with Trffie butter brioche (see BUTTER, Compound butteri). Garnish Truffle butter (see BUITER, Compound butters). Gamish with slices of breast ofchicken, and decorate the points of the with slices of breast of chicken, and decorate the poin ts of the lozenges with chopped pickled or smoked iongue and lozenges with chopped pickled or smoked tongue and chopped trufres. Surround with a border of yellow butter. chopped truffles. Surround with a border of yellow butter. CanapsA la livonienne- Slice a rectangulai rye loaf, toast, Canaps la livonieone - Slice a rectangular rye loaf, toast, and spread tith Horseradish butter (see BUTTER, Comand spread with Horseradish butter (see BUTTER, Compound butters). Garnish with slivers of herring fiIlets alternatpound butters). Garnish with slivers of herring fiUets alternating with thin ribbons of tart apples. Brush fightly with oil and ing with thin ribbons of tart apples. Brush lightly with oil and surround with a border of chopped chives. surround with a border of chopped chives.

Canat's decorated with hard-boiled eggs and green beans Canaps decorated wilh hardboiled eggs and green beans

L$stcr canapes. caNepss AU HoMARD - Follow the recipe canaps. CANAPS AU HOMARD - Follow the recipe ^ Lobster for Shrimp canapis (see below), substitutin g Lobster butier for Shrimp canaps (see below), substituting Lobster butter (see BUTTER, Compound butters) and pieces of lobster. (see BUITER, Compound butters) and pieces of lobster. Monselet canapes. c.lnepfs MoNsELET - Trim slices of Monselet canaps. CANAPS MONSELET - Trim slices of sandwich loaf into oval shapes, toast, and spread with sandwich loaf into oval shapes, toast, and spread with yellow butter. Garnish with a border of small round slices of yeUow butter. Gamish with a border of small round slices of breast of chicken, alternating with equally small rounds of breast of chicken, alternating with equally small rounds of pickled or smoked pickled or smoked tongue. tongue. Fill Fill the the centre centre with with a a salpicon salpicon of of trufres and surround with a border of yellow butter. truBles and surround with a border of yellow butter. Mont-Bry canap6s. c,tNApEs il,roNr-siv - Slice unsweetened Mont-Bry canaps. CANAPS MONT-BRY - Slice unsweetened brioche, toast, and spread with Herring butter (seeBUTTER, brioche, toast, and spread with Herring butter (see BUITER, butters). .Compound Compound butters). Garnish Gamish with with fillets fillets of of herring, herring, alternatalternating with evenly cut strips of beetroot and gherkins. Surround ing with evenly cut strips of beetroot and gherkins. Surround *itl u border with a border of ofchopped chopped yolks yolks of ofhard-boiled hard-boiled eggs. eggs. Canaps i la mosovite - Slice a square blaik rye loaf, Canaps la moscovite - Slice a square black rye loaf, toast, and spread with Horseradish butter (see BUTTER, toast, and spread with Horseradish butter (see BUITER, Compound butters). Surround with a border of butter mixed Compound butters). Surround with a border of butter mixed with the coral of spiny lobsters. Fill the centre with fresh with the coral of spiny lobsters. FiU the centre with fresh caviare and decorate with shrimp tails. caviare and decorate with shrimp tails. Canapes I la nantaise - Slice sandwich bread thin and trim Canaps la nantaise - Slice sandwich bread thin and trim the slices into long oval shapes. Toast, and spread with the slices into long oval shapes. Toast, and spread with Sgrdine butter (see BUTTER, Compound butteri). Garnish Sardine butter (see BUTTER, Compound butters). Gamish with fillets of sardines in oil from which all the bones and with fillets of sardines in oil from which aU the bones and skin have been carefully removed, and garnish with sardine skin have been carefully removed, and gamish with sardine butter in such avray as to make tbe canapis look like fish. butter in such a way as to make the canaps look like fish. Canapds Ninon - Trim slices of sandwich bread into oval Canaps Ninon - Trirn slices of sandwich bread into oval shapes, toast" and spread with Printanier butter (see shapes, toast, and spread with Printanier butter (see BUTTER, Compound butters). Garnish with a border of BUITER, Compound butters). Garnish with a border of small thin rounds of breast of chicken, alternating with smaU thin rounds of breast of chicken, alternating with rounds of truffes. Fill the centre with lean ham cut into very rounds of truffies. Fill the centre with lean ham cut into very small dice. small dice.
462 462

parisienneCanapdstla la Slicea a rectangularsandwich sandwich loaf, loaf, Canaps parisienne - Slice rectangular t_oast,and andspread spreadwith withbutter buttermixed mixedwith pounddchervil. withpounded chervil. toast, Garnishwith withsmall, small,thin thinslices slicesof ofbreast breastof olchic chicken coated ken coated Garnish gelatine-strengthenedmayonnaise withgelatine-strengthened mayonnaiseand anddecorated decoratedwith with with trurflesand andtarragon tarragon leaves. leaves.Surround Surround with withaaborder borderof truffies of jelly. chopped jelly. chopped Canapds t la printanibre - - Trim laprintanire Trimslices slicesof ofsandwich sandwich loaf Canaps loaf intorounds, rounds, toast, toast,and andspread spreadwith with Montpellier Montpellierbutter (see butter (see into BUTTER, Compound Compoundbutters). butters).Garnish Garnishwith withleaves leavesofwaterof waierBUTTER, cress, altemating alternating with with thin thinround round slices slicesof ofcarrots carrots cooked cookedin cress, in clear stock. stock.Spoon Spoon over over aathin jelly and thinlayer layslof of meat meat jelly clear and sursurroundwith border of ofchopped choppedyolks yolksof ofhard-boiled hard-boiled eggs. eggs. round with aaborder Canapds i la la reine reine-- Trim Trim slices slices of of unsweetened unsweetened brioche bii,oche Canaps into rounds, toast, toast, and and spread spread with with Truffle Trufie butter (see butter (see into rounds, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). butters).Garnish Garnish with with aa salpicon salpicon of BUTTER, of breast of of chicken, chicken, decorate decorate with with lozenge-shaped lozenge-shaped slices ilices of of breast truffie, and and surround surround with with a a border border of yellow butter. of yellow butter. truffie, Russian salad salad canaps. canap6s. CANAPS canepfs A LA re RUSSE nusse -- Slice Russian Slice aa sandwich loaf, loaf, toast, toast, and and spread spread with with butter butter aux aux fines sandwich fines herbes. Surround Surround with with aa border border of yellow butter, of yellow butter, fi.!l fili the herbes. the centre with Rzssl'an (se salad SALAD) decorate decorate with centre with Russian salad (see SALAD) with gsnl trufres, and cover cover with with a a thin fhin coat of ofjelly. jelly. truffles, and Shrimpcanaps. cl,N,uEsAUx cREvETTEsSlice a a rounded rounded Shrimp canaps. CANAPS AUX CREVEITES - Slice sandwich loaf loaf or or cut cut out out rounds rounds from from square square slices. slices. Toast, Toast, sandwich and spread spread with with Shrimp Shrimp butter (see BUITER, butter (see BUTTER, Compound Compounil and butters). Garnish Garnish with with shrimps shrimps arranged arranged in in a a rosette. rosette. SurSurbutters). round with with a a border border of of shrimp shrimp butter butter or or with with chopped chopped round parsley. parsley. Smoked eel eel canaps. canapds. CANAPS cANApEs A L'ANGUILLE L'ANGUTLLE FUME FuMfE -* Slice Smoked Slice a a round sandwich sandwich loaf, loaf, toast, and and spread spread with with Mustard butter butter round or with with Horseradish Horseradish butter (se BUITER, butter (see BUTTER, Compound Compound or butters). Garnish Garnish with with thin thin slices slices of of smoked smoked eel, eel, and and surbutters). round with with hard-boiled hard-boiled egg yolks and egg yolks chives, chopped and chives, round separately. separa tely. Canapds witb with spiny spiny lobster. CANAPS ceNlp6s DE LANGOUSTE LANcousrs Canaps - Follow the fot Shrimp canaps, canapis, using Spl'zy lobster lobster butter using Spiny low the recipe recipe for (see BUTTER, Compound butters) and slices slices of of spiny (see BUITER, Compound butters) and lobster or spiny lobster cut into dice. lobster or spiny lobster Canapes Canaps with with pickled pickled tongue. tongue. clNep6s CANAPS A r'Eclnt,nre L'CARLA TE _ - Slice a a sandwich sandwich loaf, loaf, toast, toast, and spread with paprika Paprika butter butter (see (see BUTTER, BUITER, Compound Compound butters). Garnish with thin slicej slices of pickled pickled or or smoked smoked tongue tongue or or with with tongue tongue cut cut into very small dice. of paprika paprika butter. butter. dice. Surround Surround with with a border of Canap6s Canaps I la la Veron Veron - Slice Slice adquare a.....quare black black rye loaf, toast, and Horseradish hutter butter (see BUTTER, BUITER, ComComand spread spread with with Horseradish pound pound butters). butters). Garnish Garnish with with thin thin slices slices of of Bayonne Bayonne ham ham and and surround of hard-boiled hard-boiled egg egg yolks yolks and and parsley parsley surround with with a a border border of chopped chopped up up in in equal equal proportions. proportions. Watelrress Watercress canapds. canaps. caNlpfs CANAPS AU AU cREssoN CRESSON - Slice Slice a a sandsandwich wich loaf, loaf, toast, toast, and and spread spread with with a a butter butter made made like like Tarragon Tarragon butter (see BUTTER, BUITER, Compound Compound butters), butters), substituting substituting butter (see watercress watercress leaves leaves for for the the tarragon. tarragon. Garnish Garnish with with leaves leaves ol of blanched blanched watercress watercress and and surround surround with with a a border border of ofchopped chopped hard hard boiled boiled eggs. eggs. Canapds Canaps with witb York York ham. bam. cnNApfs CANAPS A re LA yoRKArs YORKAISE - Slice Slice a a sandwich sandwich loaf, loaf, toast, toast, and and spread spread with with Chivry Chivry butter butter (see (see BUTTER, BUITER, Compound Compound butters). butters). Garnish Gamish with with thin thin slices slices of of York York ham, ham, and and surround surround with withaaborder borderof ofchopped chopped parsley. parsley. Carolines Carolines-- Small Small6clairs clairsmade madeof ofunsweetenA unsweetened Chou Choupaste paste (see (seeDOUGH), DOUGH),garnished garni shedto totaste tastewith withdifferent differentprepa.atio.rs preparations y9h-a! such as mousses mousses or or pur6es pures made made of ofshrimps, shrimps, prawns, prawns, craycrayfish, fish, lobster, lobster, spilV spiny lobster,foie lobster, foie gras, gras, salmon,iole, salmon, sole, poultry, poultry, game, are coated coated with with a a Chaud-froid Chaud-froidsauie sauce game, etc. etc. The The 6clairs clairs are (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) in in keeping keeping with with the the filling, fiUing, and and glazed glazed with with jelly. jelly.Arrange Arrangethem themon onaapaper paperdoyley. doyley. Caroline Caroline6clairs clairs can can also alsobe befilled filled with withsalpicons salpiconsblended blended with with chaud-froid chaud-froidsauce, sauce, or or with with mayonnaise mayonnaise or orjelly. jelly. They They can canalso alsobe begarnished garnishedwith withfresh freshcaviare. caviare.

HORS.D'(EUVRE HORS-D'UVRE
Caviare - The The word word 'caviare' 'caviare' generally generally indicates indicates fresh fresb Caviare caviare, i.e. i.e. the the roe roe of of one one of of the the members members of of the the sturgeon caviare, family. family. In Russia, Russia, the the roe roe of other fish fish such as as soudac, soudac, trout, trout, In are prepared salmon, perch, perch, pike pike and sigui are prepared in the same sa me way. salmon, These inferior inferior products products cannot cannat be be sold in in France as caviare. caviare. These Salted and and pressed pressed caviares are also on the market, but Salted their flavour flavour is is not not as as good as that that ofthe of the real real caviare. their Fresh caviare caviare is is served served in in its its original container container surrounded surrounded Fresh by crushed ice, ice, or in special special containers containers also surrounded surrounded by by ice. Caviare Caviare should should be be delicately delicately handled. handled. It is is usually ice. with thin thin slices slices of of rye rye bread bread lightly lightly buttered, buttered, or with a served with Russian pancake pancake called blini blini (q.v.). Russian Lemon and and chopped chives are are provided when when serving Lemon caviare for each each diner diner to help help himself. caviare Caviare barquettes or tartlets. BARQUETTES, TARTELETTES Garnish AU cAvIAR CAVIAR - Use very small barquettes barquettes or tartlets. Garnish AU fresh caviare. Serve on a paper paper doyley. with fresh cAVIAR Small brioches brioches with witb crviere. caviare. PETITES PETITES BRIocIrEs BRIOCHES AU CAVIAR Smdl Brioches d tte BRIOCHE) made from tdte (see BRIOCHE) small Brioches Use very small and fiU fill with with unsweetened dough. dough. Hollow out the brioches and unsweetened fresh caviare. Serve on a paper doyley. quickly, drain, CLERI-RAVE Celeriac. cft rnt-nlve-- Cut into dice, cook quickly, Celerirc. season with oil and vinegar, mayonnaise or mustard. season Celery CLERI A LA rl GRECQUE cnrcQur -- Trim and wash grecEre. cELBl I la grecque. in the the the celery, cut the the hearts into quarters and and prepare in the grec(W (see above). same Artichokes d la grecque as Artichokes same way as preserved cherries. BIGARcherries. BIGARcalled preserved vinegar, also caJJed Cherries in vinegar, REAUX cherries. firm white heart cherries. vINAIcRE REAttx AU VINAIGRE - Choose very finn Cut their stalks by two-thirds. jar. Sprinkle with very very small small Put them in an an earthenware earthenware jar. pieces over boiling boiling vinegar pieces of leaf. Pour Pour over bay leaf. of thyme thyme and and bay seasoned a lid lid and and cloves. Coyer Cover the jug with a seasoned with salt, and 2 cloyes. keep cool. Leave to infuse for for 15 15 days. Serve the with dish. Sprinkle Sprinkle with in an an hors-d'uvre hors-d'euvre dish. the cherries cherries in the marinade. Cherries as preserved in served separately separately as in vinegar vinegar are are served Cherries preserved hors-d'uvre Id or hot dishes. hot meat dishes. hors-d'euvre or with co cold Crayfish. tails seasoned seasoned with with Diced crayfish crayfish tails Coynsn. CREVISSES fcnBvrssns -- Diced oil, vinegar, salt and pepper, or or with a a mayonnaise. mayonnaise. put them CQcumbers. them fresh cucumbers, cucumbers, put Dice fresh coNcQMBREs- Dice Cucumbers. CONCQMBRESin salt, with salt, Serve seasoned seasoned with with salt. salt. Serve sprinkle with in a a dish dish and and sprinkle pepper, pepper, vinegar and and oil. oil. Cucumber re GRECQUE Cut grecEre. CONCOMBRES A LA cREcQUE -- Cut coNcoMBREs la grecque. I la Cucumber the proceed as la picces and for Artichokes Artichokes as for and proceed d la into pieces the ucumber cucumber into grecque (see above) grec(W (see for 10 l0 or or 12 12 minutes. minutes. cook only only for but cook above) but Cucumber the cucuPeel the sALADE - Peel EN SALADE salad. CONCOMBRES coNcoMBREs EN Chcumber salado cumbers thin slices. slices. into very very thin lengthwise into them lengthwise cumbers and and cut cut them Put leave them them salt and and leave with fine fine salt sprinkle with them on a cloth, cloth, sprinkle Put them on a to season Drain, dry, dry, and and season for 30 30 minutes. minutes. Drain, to render liquor for render their their liquor with pepper, parsley parsley and chervil. and chopped chopped chervil. vinegar, pepper, with oil, oil, vinegar, Fresh be added. added. Fresh cream cream may may be Cucumber FARcIS salad. CONCOMBRES coNcouBRss FARCIS witr vegetable vegeteble salado sfufrd with Clrcumber stufJed pntNrlNdnn - Cut pieces and and into pieces large cucumber cucumber into Cut aa large A LA le PRINTANIRE blanch give to give out to hollow out and hollow dry, and Drain, dry, in salted water. Drain, blanch in salted water. them salad: vegetable salad: Fill with with aa vegetable of cassolettes. cassolettes. Fill the shape them the shape of carrots, peas blended with blended with and peas French beans, beans, and diced French carrots, turnips, turnips, diced thick vinegar. with oil and vinegar. oil and thick mayonnaise. mayonnaise. Sprinkle Sprinkle with c1airs clairs with pur6e, coat game pure, coat with aa game Stuffeclairs la Karo1y Karoly -- Stuff Ectain I la with glaze over (se SAUCE) over and glaze SAUCE) and sauce (see with a a brown brown Chaud-froid Chaud-froid sauce with jelly. with jelly. EeJ. and general method of cleaning cleaning and method of For the the general lNcull-r.s -- For Eel. ANGUILLE cooking, as hot hot be served servedas which can can be Various dishes dishes which cooking, see see EEL. EEL. Various or vert, are also are also particularly Eels Eels au ail vert, or cold cold hors-d'uvre, hors-d'euvre, particularly described EEL. described in in the the section section EEL. Commachio kindof of This kind DECOMMACHIO lNcutrr,E DE coMMAcHIo - - This Commachio eel. eel. ANGUILLE salted Servein in used as as hors-d'uvre. hors-d'euvre. Serve is only only used and smoked eel is salted and smoked eel an dish. an hors-d'uvre hors-d'ervre dish.

with a a court-bouillon court'bouillon Eel d I'italienne l'italienne (se (see below). below). Moisten Moisten with the terrine with with the a terrine Put into seasoned with with curry curry powder. powder. Put into a it is is before it cooled before completely cooled liquid. liquid. This This dish dish must must be be completely
served. thin slices slices of of quartered pimentos and thin eels with Garnish eels with quartered pimentos and salt. Sprinkle Sprinkle with salt. raw tomatoes which have been been sprinkled with has been been eel has in which which the the eel liquor in the liquor dish with the the whole who le dish with the cooked. an eel eel Cut an r'nlttsNr.re -- Cut A L'ITALIENNE ANcuILLE ltitalienne. ANGUILLE Eel i l'italienne. Ee1 (2-inch) pieces. pieces. (li lb.) into g. (li into 5-cm. S-crn. (2-inch) weighing 750 g. leaves, on on small small bay leaves, pieces, separated by bay separated by Thread the the pieces, Thread season dish, season in an an oiled dish, the skewers in all the wooden skewers. Put ail in the the oyen. oven. minutes in for 12 12 minutes with oil. oil. Cook Cook for and sprinkle sprinkle with and the skewers. pieces of skewers. from the of eel eel from the pieces Drain and and rem remove Drain ove the a terrine. terrine. Arrange them in a Arrange (6 tableI dl. dl. (6 tableand 1 pint, scant vinegar and scant cup) cup) vinegar dl. (t Put 2 2 dl. $ pint, has eel has the eel in which the dish in cup) water into the dish scant + cup) spoons, scant! pinch of of and a a pinch 4 cloyes cloves and sugar, 4 a lump of sugar, been cooked. Add a pour over the over the and pour for 5 5 minutes, and this court-bouillon for salt. Boil this salt. place, and for leave for and leave cool place, into a a very cool the terrine, terrine,put Cover the eel. Coyer put into serving. days before serving. 2 or 3 days jelly with the the jelly and coyer cover with dish and hors-d'euvre dish on an an hors-d'uvre Arrange on Arrange terrine. inthe formed in which has fonned the terrine. EN vIN DE DE CHABLIS, cHABLIS, EN AU VIN lucutrI,E AU eel in in Chablis. Chablis. ANGUILLE Jellied eel Jellied pieces and in concentrated concentrated cook in and cook small eels eels into pieces cnrEs -- Cut Cut small GELE put pieces and and put the pieces prepared with Drain the with Chablis. Chablis. Drain stock prepared fish stock fish has the eel eel has liquid in in which which the the liquid Clarify the a smaU small terrine. terrine. Clarify into a into ice. pour over on ice. Cool on the dish. dish. Cool over the cooked and and pour been cooked vIN AU VIN DTlnINEg AU lrqculrr-e MARINE in red red wine. wine. ANGUILLE Eel marlnated marinated in Ee1 in white white marinated in for Eel Eel marinated as described described for RoucE -- Proceed Proceed as ROUGE court-bouillon. (see below), but for the the court-bouillon. red wine wine for use red but use wine (see wine vINAIcRE AU VINAIGREMenrNEE AU ANGUILLE MARINE vinegar. ANGUILLE in vinegar. Ee1 Eel marlnated marinated in (see wine (see in white white wine Eel marinated marinated in for Eel Proceed described for as described Proceed as courtfor the the courtwine for of white white wine instead of vinegar instead use vinegar below) but use below) but bouillon. bouillon. AU VIN vIN r,rRrNEu AU lNcunrn MARINE wine. ANGUILLE in white white wine. Ee1 narinated in Eel marinated in pieces. Cook onions in minced onions Cook minced into pieces. eel into the eel BLANc -- Cut Cut the BLANC place and place pan with with the the onion onion and Line a a shallow shallow pan soft. Line butter until until soft. butter COURTXll(see with Court-bouillon Court-bouillon XII Cover with eel on on them. them. Coyer the eel the (see COURTgarni. Cook for 20 20 Cook for large bouquet bouquet garni. Add a a large BOUILLON). BOUILLON). Add liquor. in its its liquor. the eel eel in and cool cool the minutes minutes and with Proceed witb A L'ORIENTALE L'oRrcNtAt-B -- Proceed ANcuILLE Eel Eel i l'orienta1e. I'oricntale. ANGUILLE (see below). below). I'orientale (see pieces, as Red mullet mullet d l'orientale for Red asfor into pieces, eel, eel, cut cut into

for as for L'rNoInNNE Eel - Proceed Ee1 I'indienne. J'indienne. ANcuTLLE ANGUILLE A L'INDIENNE Proceed as

It

stuffed Preparing cucumber to stuffed be tobe sectionsof ofcucumber Preparingsections with salad vegetable salad withvegetable

463 463

HORS-D'(EUVRE HORS-D'UVRE
(Kiel). ANGUILLE Smoked eel eel(Kiel). ANGTJTLLE fUME rurram DE DE KIEL KIEL - - Cut Cut the theeel eel Smoked into fillets fillets or very thin orvery thin slices. slices. Garnish Garnish with parsleyand with fresh fresh parsley and into halfslices slicesof of lemon lemoneut cut with with aafluted fluted cutter. cutter. half Smoked eel edcanaps canapes -- See See Canaps Canapds above. above. Smoked Eel in in verjuice. ANGUTLLE AU veriuice. ANGUILLE AU VERJUS vERJUs - - Cut pieces. Cut the the eel eelin in pieces. Eel Cook chopped chopped onions gently in onionsgently in butter. butter. Line Line the the bottom bottom of of aa Cook pan with flat pan with the the onions place the onions and and place pieces of the pieces of eel eel on on top. top. fiat Season. Add garni. Moisten Add aa bouquet bouquet garni. Moisten with with verjuice verjuice and and Season. white wine wine in in equal quantities. Finish equal quantities. Finish the the dish dish as asfor for Eel Eel white marinated in (see above). in white white wine wine (see above). marina/ed Eggs, bard-boiled. hard-boiled. OEUFS orurs DURS DURs -- Cut Cut into into dice, dice, or or slice. slice. Eggs, Season with with oil, oil, vinegar, vinegar, salt pepper or salt and and pepper or with with mayonmayonSeason naise. naise. Eggs, stulfed. stufred. OEUFS oEUFs FARCIS FARcrs -- Hard-boil Hard-boil the the eggs. eggs. Cut into Cut into Eggs, halves. Take Take out yolks and out the the yolks and mix mix these these with with whatever whatever halves. preparation is is used used as as stuffing. stuffing. Another Another way way of of stuffing stuffing eggs eggs preparation is to to eut cut a a little little off off at at both both cnds ends so so that that they they can can stand. stand. is yolks out Carefully take take the the yolks out without without brcaking breaking the the white. white. Carefully Stuffthe eggs to to tllste. taste. Arrange Arrange them them standing standing up looking up 100 like Stuff the eggs king like little barrels. barrels. little Salads and, salpicons salpicons can can be be used used as as stuffings stuffings for for eggs. eggs. Sa lads and Decorate the the halved halved eggs eggs or or the the little little barrel-shaped barrel-shaped eggs, eggs, Decorate jelly and glaze over over with with jelly and arrange arrange on on an an hors-d'uvre hors-d'euvre dish dish or or glaze plate gamished garnished with on a a plate parsley. with curly curly parsley. on Eg stuffing sfuffing i la la moscovite. moscovite. FARCE r,c,Rco D'OEUFS D'oEUFs A LA r.c, MOSCOr{oscoEgg vIrE Pound 2 2 hard-boiled hard-boiled egg yolks. Add egg yolks. (3 Add 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 VITE .. Pound tablespoons) thick thick mayonnaise, mayonnaise, 1 I tablespoon tablespoon finely finely chopped chopped tablespoons) onions cooked cooked in in oil oil until until tender, tender, and and 1 1 tablespoon tablespoon chopped chopped onions parsley. Season with paprika and with salt salt and and paprika and mix well. parsley. Season mix weil. pLUvrER, DE vANNEAU Plovers' or or lapwings' lapwings' eggs. eggs. OEUFS oEUFs DE DE PLUVIER, Plovers' DE VANNEAUput the Hard-boil the peel Iwo-thirds the eggs eggs and and peel two-thirds of of each each one. one. Put the Hard-boil part of of the egg whieh which is is left left in the shell shell on on a a bed bed ofwatereress, of watercress, part the egg in the made like a a nes!. nest. The The merits of this hors-d'euvre lie lie merits of this hors-d'uvre made to to look look Iike mainly in the rarity oftheeggs of the eggs and price. Lapwings' and their Lapwings' theu high high priee. mainly in the rarity eggs appear appear on on the about Easter. Easter. eggs the market market in in France France round round about Escablche of (Spani$ and of various fishes (Spamsh and Provenal Provengal Escabche various fishes cookery). cookery). rscastcrs ESCABCHE DE DE ForssoNs POISSONS DwERs DIVERS - Wash Wash smelts, smelts, mackerels, mackerels, whitings, whitings, red red mullets, mullets, etc., etc., and and dry dry in in a a cloth. cloth. Dip Dip in in flour fioul' and and fry fry in in olive olive oil oil until until both both sides sides are are lightly Iightly coloured. over them. coJoured. Pour Pour boiling boiling court-bouillon court-bouillon over them. This This is is prepared prepared as as follows: follows: Heat the oil in which Heat the oil in which the the fish fish were were fried fried until untiJ it il begins begins to to smoke. dl. (scant ! pint, smoke. Add, Add, for for 2+ 2~ dl. (seant} pint, general general cup) cup) oil, oil, 5 5 cloves Fry for for cloyes unpeeled unpeeled garlic, garlic, and and a a sliced sliced onion onion and and carrot. carrot. Fry a I dl. few minutes minutes and and add add l| li dl. dl. $ (! pint, pint, 3 1cup) cup) vinegar, vinegar,1 dl. a few (3 tablespoons, scant * cup) water, a sprig of thyme, half a (3 tablespoons, seant cup) watcr, a sprig of thyme, half a bay Cook for for bay leaf, leaf, some sorne parsley, parsley, 3 3 pimentos, pimentos, salt salt and and pepper. pepper. Cook 10 to 12 minutes, pour over the fish, and leave to soak for 24 10 to 12 minutes, pour over the fish, and leave to soak for 24 hours. hours. Serve Serve cold cold with with the the marinade. marinade. Fanchonnettes FanchollIlettes - See See Patties, Pallies, Fanchonnette Fanchonne//e patties, pallies, below. below. Fennd FellIlel roots. roots. FENourL FENOUIL BULBEUx BULBEUX - Peel Peel and and wash wash the the bulbous bulbous part part of of the the fennel, fennel, cut eut into into halves halves or or quarters, quarters, and and serve serve with with Vinaigrette Vinaigrette sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SA UCE). Fennel '!iellIlel roots roots I la la grecEre. grecque. FENotm FENOUlL suLsnrx llULBEUX A LA LA GREceuE GRECQUECut Cut the the bulbous bulbous roots roots into into halves ha Ives or or quarters quarters and and proceed proceed as indicated for Artichokes d la grecque (see above). as indicated for A rtichokes la grecque (see above). Fig$ Figs, fresh. fresh. Frcuts FIGUES rndcnrs FRACHES - Serve Serve as as they they are. are. Arrange Arrange the the figs figs on on vine vine leaves leaves or, or, preferably, preferably, on on small small fig fig leaves. leaves. Or Or roll roll the,m them in in thin thin slices slices of ofParma Panna ham. ham. Frmhbeens. French bcans. HARrcors HARICOTS vERTsVERTS - Cook Cook in in salt salt water, water, drain, drain, cut cut into into dice, dice, season season with with oil oil and and vinegar, vinegar, salt salt and and pepper, pepper, or or with with mayonnaise. mayonnaise. fbogst GRENOUILLES- For For the the general general preparation preparation of of Frogs' legs. legs. cnrwourllEs dishes disheswith withfrogs frogs legs legssee seeFROG. FROG. Frogst Frogs'legs legsila lagrecque. grecque.cRENourlrss GRENOUlLLESA r.A, LAcREceus GRECQUE-....Cook Cook frogs' frogs' legs legs rn in Court-bouillon Courl-bouillon I1(see (sec COURT-BOUILLON). COURT-BOUILLON). Leave to cool in the cooking Leave to cool in the cookingstock. stock. Garnish Gamishwith with rounds roundsof ofpeeled peeled lemon. lemon.
Frogs' legs parisienne. GRENOlJlLLES legs t la laparisicllIIe. cRENor.rrLLEs ALA LA PARISIENNEIARTsTENNE Frogs' Cook frogs' frogs' legs legs in in white white wine wine to to which whichaasqueeze squeeze of of lemon lemon Cook has been been added addedand and which which has has becn been seasoned seasoned with with salt salt and and has pepper. Drain Drain the the frogs' frogs'legs and dry dry them them in inaacloth. cloth. Coyer pepper. legs and Cover (see SAUCE). with Mayonnaise Mayonnaise III III (see SAUCE). with potato salado Serve on ondiced diced potato salad. Gamish Garnish with with chopped chopped hardhardServe (yolk and boiled eggs eggs (yolk parsley. and white white chopped chopped separa separately) and parsley. boiled tel y) and prMENTs pimentos. GRENOUlLLES Frogs' legs legs with with pimentas. cRENourLLEs AUX Ar..rx PIMENTS Frogs' Dolrx -- Cook Cook the the frogs' frogs' legs legs a~ as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for DOUX parisienne above. Frogs' legs legs d la Ia parisienne above. Add Add finely finely cut red and cut red and Frogs' green peppers juice to peppers and and vinegar vinegar or or lemon lemon juice to the the cooking cooking green stock and and d dress with a a trickle trickle of of oil. oil. Leave Leave to to cool. cool. stock ress with yinaigrette. GRENOUILLES Frogs' legs legs 19 vinaigrette. t la cRENournrs A LA LA VINAIvrNArFrogs' cRETTE -- Poach Poach the the frogs' frogs' legs legs as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for GRETTE Frogs' legs parisienne above. legs d la Ia parisienne above. Frogs' Drain, season season witb with oil, oil, vinegar, vinegar, pepper, pepper, salt salt and and chopped chopped Drain, parsley. Sprinkle Sprinkle sorne some of of the the boiled-down boiled-down cooking cooking stock stock parsley. over the the dish. dish. over Gherkins. CORNICHONS coRNrcHoNs -- Gherkins Gherkins in in vinegar vinegar are Gherkins. are served served cut into into dice. dice. eut Gooce, smoked. snoked. OIE Fr.rMfE -- Cut orn FUME Cut the the breast breast into very very thin thin Goose, slices. Serve parsley. with fresh fresh parsley. Serve with slices. Ham (Bayonne, Pomq Westphalia, Westphaliq Ardennes, Ardenneq Toulouse). Tanlouse). @ayonne, Panna, JAMBoNS into very thin sliees slices and arrange arrange JAMBONS - Cut the raw ham iuto in slices slices or rolled into cornets. cornets. Garnish with fresh parsley. in Herrings. HARENGS HARENcs Cut desalted desalted smoked smoked herrings into Herrings. - Cut small dice. dice. Season Season with with an an oil and and vinegar dressing or with with mayonnaise. Add Add hardboiled hard-boiled eggs eggs eut cut into into dice dice and and mayonnaise. sprinkled with chives or chopped onions. Fillets of salted herrlngs. herrings FILETS FTLETs DE HARENGS HARENcs SALS slr,ns Fillet FilJets - fillet 6 salted herrings, skin them and free them them from salt by soaking in milk and water. Drain, dry in a cloth and arrange arrange in a terrine. Put of blanched onions on them and add terrine. Put rounds rounds of onions on them and thyme, leaf and and cloyes. cloves. Pour 2 dl. dl. ($ pint, seant scant cup) thyme, bay bay Icaf vinegar vinegar over and marinate marinate them in this mixture mixture for 5 hours. Cover with oil and keep in a cool cool place. Garnish with capers, place. Gamish gherkins gherkins and lemon. These These fillets fillets can also also be be prepared in a court-bouillon court-bouillon (q.v.), (q.v.), or or dressed dressed with with a a mayonnaise, or used used as as a a garnish garnish for canapis canaps if if thoroughly thoroughly dried on a cloth. Fillets Fillets of of smoked smoked herring. herring. FTLETs FILETS DE DE HARENcs HARENGS sAuRs SA URS Fillet fillet smoked herrings, herrings, skin them, them, and and soak soak in milk milk and water. pvt water. Drain, Drain, dry dry in in a a cloth, cIo th. arrange arrange in in a a terrine, terrine, put blanched on ions on them, them, sprinkle sprinkJe with thyme, thyme, blanched rounds rounds of onions add add a a bayleaf bayleaf and and some sorne cloves, cloyes, and and cover cover with with oil. oil. Keep Keep cool. cool. Garnish Garnish with with hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs, eggs, chopped choppe<! parsley, parsley, and rounds of fluted f1uted lemon lemon slices. slices. rounds of Filfeis of smoked herring herring prepared prepared in in this this way way can can be be Fil(e'ts of dressed dressed with with mayonnaise, mayonnaise, or or used used as garnish garnisb for canapis. canaps. The The soft soft and and hard hard roes roes are are steeped steeped in in oil oil and and served served with with the the fillets. fillets. Fresh Fresh herringg herrings, marinated. marinated. HARENGS HARENGS FRArs FRAIS MARTNFS MARINS Divide Divide 6 6 herrings herrings with with soft soft roes roes into into pieces. pieces. Arrange Arrange in in a a buttered buttered or or oiled oiled pan. pan. Make Make Court-bouillon Court-bouillon XII XII (see (see COURT-BOUILLON), COURT-BOUILLON), pour pourover over the the herrings herrings and and bring bring to to the theboil. boil. Cover, Co ver, and and cook cook for for l0 10 to to 12 12 minutes. minutes. Put Put into into a a terrire terrine with with the the cooking cooking stock. stock. Leave Leave to to cool cool before before serving. serving. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with some sorne of of the the stock, stock, decorate decorate with with the the vegetables vegetables cooked cooked in in the the courtcour/bouillon bouillon and and thin thin rounds rounds of oflemon. lemon. Herrings Herrings i la la livonienne. livonienne. HARENcs HARENGS A r",c, LA rrvoNrENNE LlVONIENNE Choose Choose large large smoked smoked herrings. herrings. Fillet, Fillet, skin skin and and trim trim them. them. Keep Keep the the heads heads and and tails. tails. Cut Cut the the fillets fillets into into dice dice and and add add an an equal equal quantity quantity of ofcooked cooked potatoes potatoes and and diced diced tart tart apples. apples. Season Season with with oil, oil, vinegar vinegar and and pepper, pepper, and and add add chopped chopped parsley, parsley, chervil, chervil, tarragon tarragon and and fennel. fennel. Mix Mixwell. weil. Arrange inthe theshape shapeof ofherrings herringsand andcomplete completeby by Arrangeon onaadish dishin adding addingthe the heads heads and and tails. tails.

(*

464 464

HORS.D'(EUVRE HORS-D'UVRE

#1
ru

( RobertCarrier) Carrier\ Hors-d'uvre Hors-d'ceuwe (Robert

Herrings Cut PoRTUcAISE -- eut A LA rn PORTUGAISE portugaise. HARENGS n$sNcs la portugaise. Herrings i la herrings pint, scant cup) scantcup) in 2 2dl. dl. (t pieces and and cook cook in large pieces herrings into into large $ pint, Tomato (see FONDUE). FONDUE). T omat o fondue fondue (see Serve as above. above. Serve as Smoked I LA n RUSSE nussp - Euufs HARENGS FUMS russe. HARENGS la russe. herring i la Smoked berring Soak skin, tea,sIOn, coldstrained strainedtea, milk or orcold fillets in inmilk herring fillets smoked herring Soak smoked and giving dish, giving inaadish, Arrange in thin slices. slices. Arrange into thin crosswise into and cut cutcrosswise them tablespoons withseveral several tablespoons Seasonwith shape. Season original shape. them their their original Vinaigrette tarragon, (seeSAUCE) chervil,tarragon, to which whichchervil, SAUCE) to Vinaigrette sauce sauce(see fennel to33 Add22to added.Add have been beenadded. shallots have andchopped chopped shallots fennel and tablespoons dressing. tothe thedressing. cream to sourcream tablespoonssour Kilkis Anchovies Seeunder under Anchovies anchovies - - See or Norwegian Norwegianancbovies Kilkis or above. above. Leeks the Usethe ALA le GRECQUE cnncQur- - Use grecque.POIREAUX PoIREALTX lagrecque. Leeks i la white (3 pieces 7lcm. cm.(3 intopieces leeks.Cut Cutinto partof tender leeks. of large large tender white part inches) Artichokesd forArtichokes indicated for cookas asindicated andcook long. Blanch Blanchand inches) long. la (seeabove). grecque(see above). lagrecque Lobster, HoMARD, shellfish. HOMARD, othershellfish. lobster and andother Lobster, spiny spinylobster LANGOUSTE, and withoil oiland seasonwith intodice, dice,season Cutinto LANGousrE, CRUSTACS cnusucfs- -Cut vinegar, pepper,or mayonnaise. orwith withmayonnaise. vinegar, salt saltand andpepper, Mackerel, be canbe rulRINfs- - can MAQUEREAUx MARINS Mackerel, marinated. marinated.MAQUEREAUX

7t

horsinan anhorsservedin beserved prepared and shouldbe andshould readyprepared bought ready bought container. originalcontainer. theoriginal inthe dishor orin d'euvre dish d'uvre prepared at home.Choose Choose athome. alsobe beprepared canalso mackerel can Marinated mackerel Marinated (see inmarinade marinade(see proceedas Smeltsin asfor forSmelts and proceed fishand verysmall small fish very below). below). out. theseeds seeds andtake takethe drain,and inhalf, halldrain, Cutmelons melonsin Melon- -Cut out. Melon greenleaves. leaves. withgreen coveredwith dishcovered onaadish Serveon Cut inslices. slices.Serve Cut in ice. crushedice. withcrushed Surround Surround with melon. hamwith withmelon. ofParma Parmaharn slicesof thinslices servethin Theltalians Italiansserve The Proceed coNFITs- -Proceed MELoNsCONFITS PETITsMELONS preservedmelons. melons.PETITS SmalJ Smallpreserved forGherkins Gherkins the recipefor inthe indicatedin as melonsas with indicated recipe verysrnall smallmelons withvery (seeGHERKINS). in vinegar(see GHERKINS). invinegar inan an Servein serving.Serve beforeserving. 10days daysbefore for10 Leave soakfor Leaveto tosoak jar. an earthenware jar. inan hors-d'uvre earthenware dishor orin hors-d'euvredish thin intoth Mortadellainto theMortadella Cutthe in MortadelJa. MoRTADELLE- -Cut Mortadella.MORTADELLE into the slices dividethe diameter,divide totheir theirdiameter, slices. slices into According to slices.According flat or dish, an hors'd'uuvredish, quarters.Arrange onan Arrangeon hors-d'uvre fiat or halves halvesor orquarters. parsley. freshparsley. withfresh rolled Garnishwith cornets.Garnish intocornets. rolledinto also hors-d'euvreisis thishors-d'uvre InFrance Francethis also Mousse MousseFanchon Fanchon- - In kindsof of variouskinds ofvarious consistsof called mignonne.ItItconsists moussemignonne. calledmousse mousses. mousses.

465 465

HORS-D'(EUVRE HORS-D'UVRE
jelly,fi.!1 Coatsmall small mou moulds with jelly, fill them them with withthe thevarious various Coat Ids with moussesand pieces of and decorate decorate with withsmall smallpieces oftruffie. truffie.Put Putin inthe the mousses refrigerator. refrigerator. just before Turn out out the themoulds moulds just beforeserving. serving. Put Putthem themon on Tum canapis of of sandwich sandwich bread bread toasted toasted and andspread spreadwith withaa canaps compound butter butterin inkeeping keepingwith with the the mousse. mousse. Arrange Arrange on onaa compound paper doyley. doyley. paper MoussesFanchon Fanchon can canalso also be be served served on on tartlets tarflets or oron on Mousses artichokehearts. hearts. artichoke Mulberries. MRES MOREs rnlicnns - Serve plain in a fruit dish or Mulberries. FRACHES - Serve plain in a fruit dish or plate covered on aa plate green leaves. covered with with green leaves. on l\rlushrooms. CHAMPIGNONS cHAMprcNoNs -- Cook Cook in in aa white white CourtCourtMushrooms. (see COURT-BOUILLON) bouillon III /// (see COURT-BOUILLOIg mushrooms mushrooms cut cut bouillon into small small dice. dice. Season Season with with an an oil oil and and vinegar vinegar dressing, dressing, or or into with mayonnaise. mayonnaise. with Mrrhttd cpes cbpes and ad musbrooms. mushrooms. CPES, ctrns, CHAMPIGNONS cHAMprcNoNs Marinated parboil for u.mrNfs -- Use Use small small firm firm white white mushrooms. mushrooms. Parboil for 4 4 MARINS 'minutes in salted boiling water. Drain and dry. put them in , minutes in salted boiling water. Drain and dry. Put them in an earthenware earthenwaredish and cover cover them them with with aa boiling boilingmarinade, an dish and marinade, prepared as as follows: follows: prepared (2+ lb.) For 1 I kg. kg. (2i lb.) mushrooms, mushrooms, boil boil together together for for 10 l0 minutes, minutes, For (scant pint, pnt,2l 5 dl. dl. (scant (} pint, cups) vinegar, vinegar, Ii pint, jt cup) l\ dl. dl. (i cup) oil, oil, 5 2* cups) 3 crushed garlig a crushed cloves garni made cloves of of garlic, a bouquet bouqtet garni parsley made of 2 parsley of 2 3 roots, ! bay leaf, leaf, a a sprig sprig of of thyme thyme and and a a little little fennel, fennel, 1 f bay I teatearoots, spoon coriander, coriander, 6 peppercorns. to 8 6 to 8 peppercorns. spoon Leave the the mushrooms mushrooms in in the the marinade marinade for for 4 4 to to 5 5 days. days. Leave Serve in in an an hors-d'uvre hors-d'eavre dish. dish. Serve These mushrooms mushrooms can can be bottled in be bottled prescribed in the the prescribed These jars of marinade. Bottling Bottling jars (scant quart, of 1 I litre litre (seant quart, generous generous marinade. capacity must must be quart) eapacity be boiled boiled for for 35 35 minutes; minutes; those those of! of ! quart) (scant pint, litre (scant pint,2l cups) capacity capacity need need only only 25 25 minutes. minutes. litre 2i cups) Mussels. MouLEsCook in in white white wine. wine. Shell, Shell, dry, dry season season - Cook Mussels. MOULES with oil oil and and vinegar, vinegar, salt pepper, or salt and and pepper, or with with mayonnaise. mayonnaise. with Mussels la ravigote. I la MouLEs,i, u RA uucom Cook and and Mussels ravigote. MOULES LA VlGOTE - Cook drain large large mussels. Put them in a terrine. Season a terrine. Season with with drain mussels. Put them in Yinoigrette (see SAUCE) sauce (see SAUCE) to hard-boiled eggs, eggs, Vinaigrette sauce to which which hard-boiled parsley, chervil, tarragon gberkins have chopped gherkins have been parsley, chervil, tarragon and and chopped added. an hors-d'euvre dish. added. Arrange Arrange on on an hors-d'uvre dish. prepare Mussel sslad. sALADE Mussel salad. SALADE DE DE MouLEs MOULES - Prepare the mussels as for Mussels (see d la mariniire MUSSEL). Shell them and for Mussels la marinire (see MUSSEL). Shell dress dress with with oil, oil, vinegar, vinegar, pepper pepper andfines and fines herbes. herbes. Serve in an hors-d'euvre dish. hors-d'uvre dish. Mussels Mussels t la la tartare. tartare. uourns MOULES A r,A, LA TARTARE TARTARE - Prepare Prepare some sorne large large mussels mussels as as for for Mussels Mussels d la la marinidre marinire (see (see MUSSEL). MUSSEL). Shell Shell them them and and arrange arrange in in an an hors-d'a7wre hors-d'uvre dish. dish. Mask Mask with with Tartare Tartare sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Surround Surround with with half half slices slices of of lemon lemon cut cut with with a a fluted fiuted knife. knife. Olives Olives - Arrange Arrange on on an an hors-d'euvre hors-d'uvre dish dish without without dressing dressing them. them. Black Black olives. olives. olrvns OLIVES NorRrs NOIRES - These These can can be be bought bought ready ready for for the the table table and and are are served served without without dressing. dressing. Arrange Arrange on on an an hors-d'auvre hors-d'uvre dish. dish. Stufred OLIVES FARcns FARCIES- Choose Choose large large stoned stoned olives, olives, Stuffedolives. olives. oLryEs which which have have been been soaked soaked to to free free thern them from from salt. salt. Stuff Stuff with with a a compound compound butter. butter. The The most most usual usual stuffing stuffing for for olives olives is is Anchovy Anchovy butter butter (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). butters). Arrange Arrange the the stuffed stuffed olives olives on on an an hors-d'euvre hors-d'uvre dish dish and and dress dress with with a a few few tablespoons tablespoons oil. oil. Stuffed can also also be be bought. bought. Stuffed olives olives can Onions. Onions. orcNoNs OIGNONS - Cut Cut raw raw onions on ions into into dic, dice, blanch, blanch, drain, drain, and and season season with with oil, oil, vinegar, vinegar, salt salt and and pepper, pepper, or or with with mayonnaise. mayonnaise. Onions Onions i la la grecque. grecque. orcNoNs OIGNONS A ra LA cnrceue GRECQUE - prepared Prepared like likeArtichokes Artichokesd Ia lagrecque grecque(see (see above). abov~). Onions OnionsI Porientale l'orientale-- See See ONION. ON ION. Ox Ox muzzle muzzle salad. salad. uusnAu MUSEAU DE DE BoEUF BOEUF EN EN SALADE SALADE - Blanch. Blanch, cool cooland anddrain drainthe themuzzle. muzzle.Scrape Scrapeand andwash. wash.Boil Boilthe the mtnzle muzzle in inaawhite whitecourt-bouillon court-bouillon(q.v.), (q.v.),and andleave leaveititto tocool coolin inthe thepot. pot.
466

Drain,wipe wipedry dryand andcut cutinto intovery verythin thinslices. slices.Season Drain, with Season with strongVinaigrette Vinaigrettesauce (seeSAUCE) sauce(see SAUCE)to aastrong towhich whichonion onionand and parsleyhave choppedparsley havebeen beenadded. added. chopped Arrange on onan anhors-d'uvre hors-d'euvredish. dish.Decorate Decoratewith Arrange withtiny tinyrings rings orraw rawon onions andchopped choppedhard-boiled hard-boiled eggs. or ions and eggs. Tbishors-d'uvre hors-d'euvrecan canbe bebought bought ready-made. ready-made. This plr.lrs DE proceedas Oxtongue tonguesalad. salad.PALAIS DEBOEUF BoEUFEN Ox - -Proceed ENSALADE SALADE as above. above.

Oysters Oystcrs

Oysters. HuTRES Hulrnrs -- Oysters Oysters. Oysters are are usually usually eaten eaten raw. raw. There There are a a number number of of recipes recipes for are for serving serving oysters as a a cold oysters as cold hors&orsd'euvre. The The most d'uvre. most famous famous are arc Oysters d l'andalouse, l'andalouse, Oysters Oysters in barquettes, barquettes, Oysters in Oysters with with caviare, gastronome's caviare, The The gastronome's oyster and and Marinated Marinated oysters. (See OYSTER.) oyster oysters. (See qnchovi{r. ALLUMETTES Pastry straws witb with ancbovies. ALLUMETTEs AUX AUx ANCHOIS ANcHors -Proceed as as for for Allumettes Proceed Allumettes with (see Hot with anchovies anchovles (see Hot horshorsd'euvre\ but serve serve cold. d'uvre) Pastry straws straws with Pastry with caviare. caviare. ALLUMETTES ALLuMETTEs AU AU CAVIAR cAvrAR -pastry as Prepare pastry as for for Allumettes (q.v.). (q.v.). Cover Cover with with a a thin thin Fish forcemeat (see FORCEMEATS) layer of Fishforcemeat FORCEMEATS) and and cook cook in in the oven. Cool and cover with fresh caviare. caviare. pastry straws. ALLUMETTES LA NonvfcrENNE NORVGIENNENorwegian pastry straws. ALLUITETTEs A r,e Prepare the pastry pastry as Allumettes (q.v.). (q.v.). Cover as for for Allumettes Cover with with a a thin layer of a a salpicon salpicon (q.v.) of hard-boilod hard-boiled eggs, eggs, blended wrth, Bichamel with Bchamel sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Bake Bake in the oven. Leave to cool and garnish with Norwegian Norwegian anchovy fillets. pastry straws. ALLTJMETTEs ALLUMETTES A u LA pmrsENNE PARISIENNE Parisian pastry Prepare Prepare the pastry pastry as for Allumettes Allumettes (q.v.). Coat with a a thin layer layer of of chicken chicken Mousselineforcemedr Mousselineforcemeat (see (see FORCEMEATS) FORCEMEATS) bake in the the oven. oven. and bake Cool, garnish garnish with with thin th in strips strips of of breast breast of of chicken chicken alternataltematCool, ing with slices of of trufres truffies and and pickled pickled tongue. tongue. Glaze Glaze with with ing jelly. jelly. pastry straws. ALLT,JMETTES ALLUMETTES vLADTMTR VLADIMIR - prepare Vladimir pastry Vhdinir - Prepare the pastry pastry as as for for Allumettes Allumettes (q.v.), (q.v.), coat coat with with a a thin thin layer layer of of the Pike forcemeat forcemeat (w (see FORCEMEATS) FORCEMEA TS) and and Crayfish Crayfish butter butter Pike (see (see BUTTER). BUTTER). Bake Bake in in the the oven. oven. Leave Leave to to cool, cool, and and garnish gamish with small small slices slices of of smoked smoked salmon, salmon, alternating alternating with with slices slices witl of truffies. truffles. Glaze Glaze with with jelly. jelly. of Patties. soucuEEsBOUCHES - Very Very small smallpatties patties made made of of puffpastry puff pastry Patties. garnished gamished with with different different mousses; mousses; prawns, prawns, shrimps, shrimps, craycrayfish, foie gras, gras, Eame, game, poultry, poultry, etc. etc. frsh,fok BOUCHES FANcHoNNErre FANCHONNETTE - Make Make Fancboonette patties. patties. soucHins Fanchonnette -salad very small small patties patties of of puff puff pastry. pastry. Garnish Gamish with with a a salad of very of breast of of chicken chicken and and a a salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) of of red red and and green green breast pepperswith with mayonnaise. mayonnaise. Fut Puta a thick thick slice slice of oftrufre truffie on on each each peppeni patty. patty.

HORS-D'(EUVRE HORS-D'UVRE
patties can Small patties garnished in can be be garnished in the the same same way way as as canaps, canapis, Small tartlets, and preparations. and other other similar similar preparations. tartlets, prMENTs Dor.rx Pepperg sweet. sweet. PIMENTS peppers, Skin the the pep open Peppers, DOUX -- Skin pers, open them and and take take out out the the seeds. seeds. Cut Cut into into sticks sticks and and season season with with them oil, vinegar, vinegar, salt pepper. Arrange salt and and pepper. Arrange in in an an hors-d'uvre hors-d'euvre oil, dish, sprinkle sprinkle with parsley, and with chopped chopped parsley, garnish with and garnish with thin thin dish, rings of of raw raw onion. onion. rings pETrrs pMENTs VERTS, poIvRoNS green. PETITS PIMENTS Peppery small small green. vERTs, POIVRONS Peppers, Proceed as as indicated indicated for for Sweet peppers above. Sweet peppers above. Proceed Pickles Arrange in an hors-d'euvre dish or serve in the the Pickles -- Arrange in an hors-d'uvre dish or serve in original container. container. original (condimenQ Pissalat (condiment) This can can be bought ready-made. ready-made. be bought Pissalat - This yourself pickle To make make it pickle a it yourself a mixture mixture of of sm small shad, To aIl shad, herrings, sardines sardines and and anchovies, anchovies, for for 8 8 days. days. Rub Rub through through a a herrings, sieve and and dilute dilute with with a a few few tablespoons tablespoons of of the the brine brine in in which which sieve the fish pickled. Add fish were were pickled. jars. Add sorne some cl put into cloves and put into jars. oves and the Seal weIl well and and keep place. keep in in a a cool cool place. Seal Pissalat condiment condiment can can be be used used as as it it is, is, or or with with oil oil added added Pissalat to it. it. to poMMEs DE Potatoes. POMMES TERRE -- Cooked DE TERRE Cooked in in water, water, cut cut into into Potatoes. dice or or sliced, sliced, seasoned seasoned with with oil, oil, vinegar, salt salt and and pepper, dice or with with mayonnaise. mayonnaise. or Printanilre See Spring Spring vegetables vegetables below. below. Printanire - See Radisheg black. black. RADIS RADrs NOIRS NorRsScrape the radishes and cut cut - Scrape Radishes, into thin thin slices. slices. Sprinkle Sprinkle them with with salt salt and and leave leave them them to into render their their liquor liquor for for 30 30 minutes. minutes. Dry, Dry, and and arrange arrange in in an an render hors-d'euvre dish. dish. hors-d'uvre A little little Vinaigrette (ser-, SAUCE) Vinaigrette sauce sauce (see SAUCE) can can be be added. added. In A Russia, black black radish generally served with radish is is generally with a a sour sour cream Russia, dressing. dressing. Radishes, red red and white. RADIS RADrs ROSES, RosEs, RADIS RADrs GRIS cRrs Scrape Radishes, - Scrape the radishes, radishes, cut green part part short, wash and arrange cut the the green arrange in an the hors-d'euvre dish. Serve with salt and and fresh butter. hors-d'uvre Red radishes are are often often used used to to decorate cold cold dishes and and Red radishes salad arrangements. arrangements. salad Red mullet i l'orientale l'orientde or red mullet with saffron. saffron. ROUGETS RoucETS Red A L'oRrENr,qlE, AU SAFRAN SAFRAN Choose very small fish. fish. Season Season L'ORIENTALE, AU - Choose with pepper, roll and pepper, in flour, deep-fry in hot oil. with salt and roll in Arrange fish on on an an oiled oiled baking dish. dish. Cover Cover with Arrange the the fish Tomato fondue (see FONDUE) spiced with a a little saffron, Tomato (see FONDUE) fennel, some grains of coriander, coriander, fennel, thyme, powdered powdered bayleaf, sorne garlic and garlic and chopped parsley. parsley. Bring Bring to the boil. Cover the dish and and finish finish the cooking cooking in the oven for 6 to 8 minutes. Serve dish with slices of of peeled lemon. Serve in in an hors-d'euvre hors-d'uvre dish Sprinkle Sprinkle with with chopped parsley. parsley. Rollnops of herring, marinated Rollmops - Fillets Fillets of marinated and and strongly strongly spiced. up and secured spiced. They They are are stuffed stuffed with with a a gherkin, gherkin, rolled rolled up with with a a little little wooden wooden stick. stick. Rollmops Rollmops are are served served on on an hors-d'auvre hors-d'uvre dish decorated with rounds rounds of of onions. on ions.

Rollmops Rollmops

pnrrrs PAINS pArNs GARNIS garnished. PETITS Ro[s, garnished. cARNrsChoose very very small small RoUs, - Choose oblong-shaped rolls rolls made made with with butter. butter. Similarly Similarly shaped shaped rolls rolls oblong-shaped (see DOUGH) made from from ordinary ordinary Brioche Brioche dough dough (see DOUGH) can also made can also be used. used. Fill Fill them thEm d la hfrangaise, or d la larusse: russe: be franaise, or ta franaise. A la open on on one Cut open one side side only. only. Spread Spread with with frangare. Cut (either ordinary butter (either ordinary butter butter or or mustard mustard butter). butter). Garnish butter Garnish with thin (or other thin slices slices of poultry), ham, of breast breast of of chicken chicken (or other poultry), ham, with pickled tongue, fillet of tongue, fillet of beef, beef, smoked smoked salmon salmon or or similar similar pickled items according grcs can to taste. taste. Various pur6es or according to Various pures or foie can items foie gras also be as stuffing. be used used as stuffing. aJso A la la russe. russe. Take Take a a round round slice slice off off the the top top of of the the rolls. rolls. Empty the the rolls rolls through through this this opening opening without without breaking Empty breaking the the crust. Fill Fill the pur6e, a the roll roll with (q.v.). with a a pure, a salad, salad, or or a a salpicon salpicon (q.v.). crust. paper doyley, Arrange on on a a paper doyley, or or on on a a napkin. napkin. Arrange Rolls la franaise d la are served served'at Rolls 'at luncheon luncheon or or as as sandsandfrangaise are wiches. wiches. Rolls d la la russe russe should should always always be be very very small. small. They They belong Rolls belong to the the Russian Russian hors-d'uvre hors-d'auvre called called zakouski. zakouski. to Salami -- Cut Cut into into thin thin slices, slices, arrange Salami arrange on on an an hors-d'uvre hors-d'euvre garnish with dish, garnish parsley. with fresh fresh parsley. dish, Salmon i la h canadienne. canadienne. SAUMON sAUMoN A LA re CANADIENNE clN.lonNtrg -- Cut Salmon Cut the salmon salmon in in squares squares and and saut saut6 in in oil. oil. Season the Season with with salt salt and and paprika. paprika. pods (ladies' (ladies'fingers) Add okra okra pods poached Add fingers) which have been which have been poached juice. Cover separately. Moisten Moisten with with white white wine wine and and lemon juice. separately. Cover with a a lid lid and and simmer for a a few few seconds. seconds. Leave simmer for to cool. Leave to with cool. Arrange in in an an hors-d'uvre hors-d'euvre dish. dish. Garnish Arrange Garnish with red and with red and cut into into dice. green peppers, peeled and cut dice. Pour Pour a little olive a little olive oil oil the dish. dish. over the Fresh salmon salmon can can be be served served as as an an hors-d'uvre hors-d'cavre following given for the instructions instructions given for different different kinds the kinds of of fish fish as as horsd'euvre, d'uvre. pAUpTETTEs DE pupiettes Salmon paupiettes Pinperisle. PAUPIEITES i l'impriale. Salmon DE SAUMON sAUMoN A L'IMPRIALE r'mpfnLlrs -- Flatten thin narrow slices of salmon, season, coat lightly (see FORCElightly with with a a layer layer of of Pike forcemeat (see coat MEATS) with a little shallot MEA TS) with a little shallot and and sorne parsley some chopped choppod parsley added. Roll up up into the the shape of of paupiettes added. paupiettes and and secure secure with string. Put the into an an oiled pan, packing packing them Put the paupiettes into oiled pan, them in fairly tightly. tightly. Moisten Moisten with fairly with a a few few tablespoons white wine of lemonjuice. Season and add a little bouquet and a squeeze oflemonjuice. of fennel. Simmer very slowly with the lid on. Drain Drain the paupiettes, untie, and place place each the paupietles, untie, and on a each on a small artichoke artichoke heart cooked in a white wine stock. Arrange Arrange in an hors-d'auvre dish, sprinkle sprinkle with hors-d' uvre dish, with the the stock in which stock in which the paupiettes have been cooked, and and add a little olive oil and and a few capers, half slices of lemon lemon cut few spices. Decorate with capers, with a fluted fiuted cutter, and fresh parsley. parsley. Salmon paupiettes PAUPIETTES DE SAUMON Salmon paupiettes au vert. pAr.JpIETTEs sAuMoN AU VERT - Prepare the paupiettes as the preceding recipe. recipe. Cook as in the them according to the instruction for Eels an au vert (se (see EEL). Smoked Smoked sdnon. salmon. SAUMON FUM - Cut the smoked salmon sAuMoN rurraf into very thin slices. Arrange Arrange on an hors-d hors-d' euvre u vre dish, flat or rolled into cornets. Garnish Garnish with with fresh parsley. parsley. Smoked SAUMON Furd FUM A r,l LA BosroNBOSTONSmoked salmon salmon Boston style. s,lu,roN NAISE - Cut Cut 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz.) smoked salmon into very thin short 100 g. (4 oz.) oz.) cooked mushrooms and 75 g. short strips. Add 100 and,75 (3 (3 oz.) each of of green and red peeled pepper, cut cut in the same same way. way. Season Season with with mayonnaise mixed mixed with with a a very very little Tabasco sauce (commercial (commercial product). Arrange on an horshorsd'euvre d'uvre dish, surround surround with the the chopped yolks yolks and and whites of hard-boilod hard-boiled eggs, eggs, and and sprigs sprigs of parsley. parsley. Sprinkle Sprinkle with chopped parsley parsley and serve. serve. Smoked Smoked salmon salmon i la la noscovite. moscovite. sluuoN SAUMON rtnr6 FUM A rl LA MoscovrrE MOSCOVITE - Roll very small small slices of of smoked salmon salmon into into cornets. cornets. Fill with fresh fresh caviare. caviare. Arrange Arrange the the cornets cornets in a a circle circle on on a a plate. plate. Decorate Decorate with with the the chopped chopped yolks yolks and and whites whites ofhard-boiled of hard-boiled eggs, eggs, parsley parsley and and capers. capers.
467 467

HORS.D'(EUVRE HORS-D'UVRE
Salt co4 cod, curried. EscALopEs ESCALOPES DE DE MoRUE MORUE A r'nrDIrNNE L'INDIENNE Soak Soak the the salt cod and and cut into into thin thin slices. Wash and dry the slices in in a cloth. clotho Flour lightly lightly and cook cook in in boiling boiling oil. Take Take the the fish fish out out of the the pan. pan. Cook 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3

Sour-sweet Sour-sweet pickles pickles (acetodolce) (aceto-dolce) - Different Different kinds kinds of
vegetables vegetables and fruits are commercially commercially preserved preserved in vinegar. They are then th en put in a syrup of of must and honey spiced with

mustard. mustard.

tablespoons) tablespoons) finely finely minced minced onion onion in the pan, pan, sprinkle in
~ cup) cup) white white wine wine and and a little !ittle lemon lemon juice, juice, and add a little 3 crushed crushed garlic. Boil Boil for a a few few minutes minutes and put the slices of cod cod into into this this court-bouillon. court-bouillon. Bring Bring to to the the boil boil again, again, cover coyer and remove rem ove from from the the heat. heat. Cool, Cool, arrange arrange in in a dish and surround with lemon slices. slices. Salt Salt cod cod tongues tongues la la madrillne. madrilne. LANGTJEs LANGUES nB DE uonues MORUES A rA, LA Mlpntr,iNe MADRILNE - Cook an an unpeeled unpeeled clove clove of of garlic in in very hot oil. oil. Toss Toss the the cod cod tongues tongues in in this this oil. Pour Pour over over the the tongues tongues a sufficient quantity quantity of of vinegar vinegar to to cover coyer them. them. Season Season with with thyme, thyme, powdered powdered bay bay leaf leaf and and red red Spanish Spanish peppr. pepper. Cook Cook in in an an open open pan pan for 12 minutes, minutes, and and sprinkle in in a generous generous amount amount of freshly freshly chopped fennel. Leave Leave to to cool cool in in the the stock. stock. Salt Salt cod cod tongueg tongues, narinated. marinated. LANGr,tEs LANGUES Ds DE uonuEs MORUES MARTNfEs MARINES - Soak Soak the the cod cod tongues tongues to to remove rem ove the the salt. salt. Dry, Dry, and and fry fry in in olive olive oil. oil. Moisten court-bouillon (q.v.) (q.v.) adding adding just just Moisten with with white white wine wine court-bouillon enough enough to to cover coyer them. them. Cook Cook slowly slowly for 12 12 minutes. minutes. Put Put the the tongues tongues and and the the cooking cooking liquor liquor into into a a terrine. terrine. Leave Leave to to cool. cool. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with chopped chopped parsley. parsley. Sardines Sardines in in oil. oil. SARDTNES SARDINES A r'nurr.t L'HUILE - Arrange Arrange on on an an hors-d'auvre hors-d'uvre dish, dish, dress dress with with oil, oil, and and garnish garnish with with capers capers and and fresh fresh parsley. parsley. Sardine Sardine pur6e. pure. punfs PURE DE DE sARDTNEs SARDINES - Put Put in in a a mortar mortar 12 12 well-boned well-boned sardines sardines which which have have been been kept kept in olive olive oil. oil. Pound Pound theur them in in the the mortar mortar together together $/ith with 4 4 yolks yolks of of hardhardboiled boiled eggs. eggs. Pass Pass through through a a fine fine sieve sieve and and use use for for cold cold or or hot hot hors-d'euvre. hors-d'uvre. Sa$ages, Sausages, various. various. sAuclssoNs SAUCISSONS - There There are are many many different different sausages sa usages which which can can be be bought bought ready-made ready-made and and served served as as hors-d'euvre. hors-d'uvre. Cut Cut into into thin thin slices slices and and arrange arrange on on an an hors-d'euvre hors-d'uvre dish with with fresh fresh parsley. parsley. Seveloys Saveloys (susage). (sausage). cERVELAs CERVELAS - Cook Cook various various kinds kinds of of saveloys saveloys and and leave leave to to cool. cool. Cut Cut into into thin thin slices slices and and serve serve like like other other sausages. sausages. Sheep's Sheep's trotters trotters ls la yinaigette. vinaigrette. prms PIEDS on DE MouroN MOUTON A rA, LA vINAIGRETTE VINAIGRETTE - Cook Cook the the sheep's sheep's trotters trotters in in the the usual usual way way (see (see OFFAL OFF AL or or VARIETY VARIETY MEATS). MEATS). Drain, Drain, bone bone and and cut cut into is still still hot, hot, into very very small small pieces. pieces. Season Season the the meat meat while while it it is with with oil, oil, vinegar, vinegar, salt, salt, pepper, pepper, onions onions and and chopped chopped parsley. parsley. Arrange Arrange in in small small salad salad bowls bowls or or in in an an hors-d'auvre hors-d'uvre dish. Shetlfish, Shellfish, mixed. mixed. FRr.rrrs FRUITS DE DE MER MER - Different Different kinds kinds of of shellshellfish fish served served raw. raw. Shrimps. CREVETTES - Shrimps Shrimps seasoned seasoned with with oil, oil, vinegar, vinegar, Shrimps. cREvETrEs salt salt and and pepper, pepper, or or with with mayonnaise. mayonnaise. Shrimp Shrimp sdad. salad. SALADE SALADE DE DE cRwErrEs CREVETTES - Shell Shell the the shrimps shrimps

I 1 tablespoon tablespoon curry powder, moisten moisten with with l+ 11 dl. dl. $ (i pint,

Arrange in an an hors-d'euvre hors-d'uvre dish or serve in the the original jar. jar. Sprats - Take the heads and the tails off off the fish and skin skin Sprats them. them. Arrange Arrange on on a a plate plate and and sprinkle sprinkle with with chopped shallots and and parsley. Moisten Moisten with oil and and vinegar and leave to steep for several several hours in this marinade marinade before serving. serving. Arrange on on an an hors-d'euvre hors-d'uvre dish dish and and garnish garnish with with fresh parsley.

Spring vegetables vegelables Spring

beans, beans, carrots carrots and and turnips turnips cut cut into into very very small small squares, squares, peas peas and Drain and and season season with with oil, oil, and asparagus asparagus tips tips in in water. water. Drain vinegar, vinegar, salt salt and and pepper. pepper.

Spring vegetables vegetables (printanibrc) (printanire) - Cook Cook diced diced French French Spring

and put therr them in in a a deep deep dish. dish. Cover Coyer with with mayonnaise. mayonnaise. and put

Garnish Garnish the the dish dish with with lettuce, lettuce, leaving leaving the the centre centre free; free; fill fill trris this with with rounds rounds of of hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs. eggs. Srgul Sigui, smoked. smoked. srcur SIGUI ruuf FUM - Cut Cut smoked smoked slgzi sigui into into very very thin thin slices, slices, arrange arrange on on an an hors-d'euvre hors-d'uvre dish dish and and garnish garnish with You can can also also use use smoked smoked sigui sigui for for filling filling with fresh fresh parsley. parsley. You barEtettes, barquettes, canapis, canaps, tartlets, tartlets, etc. etc. Smelts SmeJts in in marinade. marinade. 6pm,r,,q,rs PERLANS MARTNEs MARINS - Clean Clean and and dry dry carefully carefully chosen chosen smelts. smelts. Roll Roll in in flour flour and and fry fry them them in in boiling boiling oil oil so so that that they they quickly quickly colour colour on on both both sides. sides. Season. Season. Drain Drain the the smelts. smelts. Arrange Arrange them them in in a a deep deep dish, dish, cover coyer with with rounds rounds of ofblanched blanched onions onions and and sprinkle sprinkle with with thyme thyme and and bay bay leaf. leaf. Add Add peppercorns peppercorns and and cloves. cloyes. Cover Coyer with with cold cold conconcentrated 12 hours hours in in this this centrated vinegar. vinegar. Leave Leave the the smelts smelts for for 12 marinade. marinade. Serve Serve in in an an hors-d'ezvre hors-d'uvre dish. dish.
468 468

Tapenade (Provengrle (Provenale recipe) recipe) - This This consists consists of of olives olives Tapenade pounded pounded with with desalted desalted anchovy anchovy fillets fiUets and and capers, capers, the the whole whole 'being being blended blended with with olive olive oil oil and and lemon lemon juice, juice, then then seasoned seasoned with pepper. pepper. Serve Serve on on toast. toast. with Tartlets, garnished. garnished. TARTELETTES TARTELETTES cARNtEs GARNIES - Garnished Garnished Tartletq tartlets in the the same same way way asbarquettes; as barquettes; tartlets are are prepared prepared and and filled filled in the the only only difference difference lies lies in in their their shape. shape. Tartlets Tartlets are are baked baked in in small or fluted fluted borders. borders. small round round tins tins with with plain plain or Toas{ Toast, gamished. garnished. roAsrs TOASTS cARNrsGARNIS - All Ali recipes recipes for for garnished garnished canaps can can be be used used for for garnished garnished toast. toast. canapis Tomatoes. ToMATES TOMATES - Peel Peel and and seed seed the the tomatoes. tomatoes. Cut Cut Tomatoes. them into into dice dice or or slices. slices. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with salt, salt, leave leave them them to to them stand for for a a time time and and season season with with oil, oil, vinegar, vinegar, salt salt and and pepper. pepper. stand Tomatoes I'antiboise. l'antiboise. ToMATEs TOMA TES A r'^nl.tflsorsn L'ANTIBOISE - Choose Choose Tomatoes red, red, uniform, uniform, small small tomatoes. tomatoes. Take Take out out the the seeds seeds without without damaging the the flesh. flesh. Leave Leave them them for for I 1 hour hour in in oil, oil, vinegar, vinegar, damaging salt and and pepper. pepper. Garnish Garnish with with a a mixture mixture of of chopped chopped tunny tunny salt (tuna (tuna fish) fish) in in oil, oil, hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs, eggs, capers, capers, parsley, parsley, chervil chervil and tarragon tarragon blended blended with with a a strongly strongly flavoured flavoured mayonmayonand naise to to which which anchovy anchovy essence essence has has been been added. added. Arrange Arrange on on naise

HORS.D'(EUVRE HORS-D'UVRE
trufles into dice or Trufles. TRUFFES Truffies. TRUFFEs - Cut cooked or raw truffies or with salt and and peppr, oil, vinegar, strips, with oil, vinegar, salt pepper, or strips, season with jelly or with a mayonnaise. Truffies can also be blended blended with withjelly mayonnaise. Chaud-froid sauce (see SAUCE). brown Chaud-froid (trna fish). oil, cut into dice, fisb). THON Tunny (tuna THoN - Marinate in oil, mayonnaise. season season with oil, vinegar, salt and pepper, or mayonnaise. (trna fish) A LA r.n NlNrerse rtroN Tunny (tuna fish) NANTAISE i la nantaise. THON - Cut ssa1lt* of Horseradish the fish into slices. Co ver with a thin coating Horseradish Cover (see BUTTER, Arrange the butters). Arrange butter BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). butter (see plate, alternating with on a a plate, slices by two two in in a two by a circ1e circle on slices two Garnish the centre with a salad rounds of cooked beetroot. Garnish Sprinkle with chives and chopped of mussels and potatoes. Sprinkle tarragon. (funa fish) in oil. THON t'ttuttE -- Arrange A L'HUILE Arrange canned Tunny (tuna rsoN dish, dress with oil oil and and garnish tunny on an tunny an hors-d'uvre hors-d'euvre dish, parsley. with capers or fresh parsley. gamished. BARQUETTES rfcuuns BARet ETTES DE Vegetable boats, boats, garnished. Vegetable DE LGUMES vegetables, mainly mainly beetroot beetroot and GARNIES cARNIEs Pieces of of vegetables, - Pieces garnished in cucumber, shaped like boats, hollowed hollowed out and garnished different different ways. barquettes apply as garnishes for Ali All the fillings given for barquettes garnishes for this this kind kind of vegetable vegetable boats. The most usual garnishes pur6es, vegetable macdoine, macidoine, pures, hors-d'uvre hors-d'euvre are are caviare, caviare, vegetable shellfish. butter compounds, salpicons of shellfish. oE LGUMES r"fcutuns -- Cook JULTENNE DE Cook the V egetabl~ lulienne. julienne. JULIENNE Vegetable a covered pan: following fine frne julienne (q.v.) slowly in in oil in a (4 oz., g. (4 (a oz., g. (4 I cup) of the white part of leeks, 100 g. 100 g. oz., 1 (2 oz., t g. (2 Season. 1 I cup) celery and and 50 g. * cup) onions. Season. (2 oz., add 50 g. oz.,l When three-quarters cooked add 1 cup) raw E (2 fresh cream mushrooms cut julienne strips. Blend with fresh cut into into julienree what other leave as as it it is, is, according to to what or or mayonnaise, or or leave dishes you are serving. serving. raenNes Whitebait, NONATS MARINS Whitebait, marinated. NoNATs Put the fish in a - Put a boiling marinade made with white deep dish, dish, and and pour in a serving. Arrange in wine. wine. Cover and leave leave to to cool before before serving. Cover and with chopped parsley, and and an an hors-d'uvre hors-d'euvre dish, dish, sprinkle sprinkle with a fluted cutter. half surround with ha If slices of lemon cut with a NoNArs a twig of thyme, DE NONA Whitebait TS Whitbait salado salad. SALADE sALADE DE - Put a pot of water. into a water. Bring to to the a a bay bay leaf leaf and and sorne some salt into a pot I minute. Drain, arrange arrange in a boil, put thefish the fish in and boil for 1 sprinkle with salad or an an hors-d'uvre hors-d'euvre dish, dish, and and sprinkle salad bowl bowl or (se SAUCE). Vinaigrette sauce (see SAUCE). pigs' trotters. and Zampino Boned and and stuffed stuffed pigs' Cook and trotters. Cook - Boned on an an horsleave to cool. cool. Cut into into thin thin slices slices and and arrange on garnished with parsley. Zampino can be bought d'uvre d'euvre dish, garnished ready cooked in in shops selling Jtalian Italian produce.
noRs-p'GUvRE CHAUDS HOT HORS-D'UVRE. HORS-D'(EUVRE. HORS-D'uVRE cHAUDS a suitable Allumettes - Puff pastry rectangles, spread with a and baked in the oven. mixture and Make Puffpastry(see Puffpastry (see DOUGH). Roll out to a thickness thickness of (3 inches) c-. (t inch) inch) and and cut cut into into ribbons ribbons 71 7t cm. cm. (3 inches) long. 1 * cm. fish, and add the Spread with a a cold forcemeat of poultry or fish, garnish appropriate appropriate to to the the recipe. (l inch) wide. Cut the ribbons into rectangles about 2lcm. cm. (1 Put Put on on a a baking baking sheet sheet and and bake bake in in the the oven oven for for 12 12 to to 15 15 minutes. Arrange on a a napkin and and serve very hot. Allumettes with L ALLUMETTES lrluugTrrs AUX Aux ANCHOIS ANcHors -with anchovies anchovies I. (see FORCEMEAT) Spread forcemeat (see FORCEMEAT) with Spread with with Fish Fisft forcemeat Anchovy Anchovy butter (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters.) Garnish with fillets fillets of anchovy. Allumettes with II. ALLUMETTES ALrx ANCHOIS ANcHors -with anchovies n. lnul,tpTTEs AUX Spread with Salpicon anchovies and and hardSalpicon (q.v.) of fillets of anchovies boiled eggs blended with thick Bchamel UCE). Bichamel sauce (see SA SAUCE). Allumettes forcemeat l'andalouse i l'andalouse Spread with with Poultry forcemeat - Spread (see FORCEMEAT) seasoned paprika, mixed (see with paprika, nixed with with a seasoned with a salpicon salpicon of and onions onions cooked cooked in in butter, also ham and of lean lean harn butter, also seasoned seasoned with paprika.

Stuffed tomatoes

plate, sprinkle with the marinade, an an hors-d'uvre hors-d'uavre dish dish or plate, and garnish with fresh parsley and half slices of lemon cut with a fluted cutter. Tomatoes, ToMATHI FARCIES FARcIES Tomatoesr stufJed. strffed" TOMATES - Prepare tomatoes as described described in the recipe for Tomatoes d l'antiboise I'antiboise (see above). Garnish with a compound pure, Russian Russian salad, or a compound butter, pur6e, salpicon salpicon (q.v.).

presented in a Stuffed tomatoes presented a hollowed-out hollowed-out cucumber

Tomatoes TES A LA rl VINAIGRETTE vINAIcRETTE la vinaigrette. TOMA rou.e,tss Tomatoes i la Skin the tomatoes, take out the seeds and water and cut into slices or quarters. Put on a and leave a towel, cover with salt and them to I hour. to render their liquor for 1 Arrange and dish, sprinkle sprinkle with with oil oil and hors-d'euvre dish, Arrange in in an an hors-d'uvre parsley, chervil vinegar, and tarragon. tarragon. Sprinkle chervil and vinegar, chopped chopped parsley, ground pepper pepper and with freshly ground and garnish with thin rounds of raw raw onion. Tongue, ruut -pickled and LANGUE CARLATE, fcmtltr, FUM Tongue, pickJed smoked. LANGUE and smoked. Cut into thin slices and hors-d'euvre dish. dish. and serve in an hors-d'uvre Trout, MARINEEs very small Trout marinated. TRITITEs MARINES Cook very mrrinated. TRUITES - Cook (see COURT-BOUILLON). trout in Court-bouillon trout in XII (see Court-bouillon XII Leave Leave them them to in their to cool in their cooking cooking stock. stock. Arrange Arrange in in an hors-d'uvre hors-d'euvre dish. dish. Pour Pour the the stock over the the fish fish and and garnish parsley. with seeded and slices of lemon, and and peeled slices and fresh fresh parsley. Trout i l'orientale. I'orientale. TRUITES A L'ORIENTALE t'onIENrAln -- Prepare TRUITES Prepare and and cook very small trout as mul/et as indicated for for Red Redmullet d l'orientale I'orientale above. Arrange Arrange on an hors-d'euvre dish. an hors-d'uvre dish. Trout, smoked. TRUITES ruvrfss -- Garnish and TRUITES FUMES and serve with with toast and and lemon.

2t

469 469

HORS.D'(EUVRE HORS-D'UVRE
Allumettes i la la chalonnai.se chalonnaise -- Spread with with Poultry Poultry forceAllumettes force(s@ FORCEMEAT) to meat (sec to which diced diced cocks' cocks'combs and meat combs and have been kidneys, mushrooms mushrooms and truffies truffes have been added. added. kidneys, Allumettes Chavette Chavette -- Spread Spread with with Fish Fisft forcemeat AUumettes forcemeat (see (see BUTTER, FORCEMEAQ wth with Crayfish Crayfish butter butter (see BUTTER', ComFORCEMEAT) pottnd butters). butters). Garnish Garnish with with crayfish crayfish tails tails and and truffies. trufres. pound Alhmettes P6carlate i l'clU"late Spread with wth Vea/ Veal forcernear AD 0 mettes - Spread forcemeat (see pickled or FORCEMEAT) to which which a a salpicon salpicon of of pickled or smoked FORCEMEA T) to tongue has has becn been added. added. puree of Nhrmettes l'6cossairse i l'cossaise Spread with with pure haddock of haddock AUl.lmCUI~ - Spread with thick lldchamel sauce blended with thick Bchamel sauce (se SAUCE). SAUCE). bleoded Allumettes i la Ia florentine florentine with spinach spinach cooked cooked in in Allumettes - Spread with butter, blended blended with with thick thick Bichamel sauce sauce (see SAUCE), grated cheese to which grated has been cheese bas been added. added. Sprinkle with to just before serving. Parmesan cheese and brown in the cheese and brown in the oven oven jusl serving. Parmesan prssALAT pissalat TOlmTE Anchory fart tail widl with pissalat. ToT.JRTE D'ANCHOIS D'ANcHors AU AU PISSALAT Anchovy pasre (see (see DOUGH) Roll out ourt Lining Lining paste DOUGH) 1 I cm. cm. $ inch) truck. thick. - Roll Line a a large large tart tart tin tin wi with the pastry, crimp the the edges. edges. Line th the fillets of of anchovy, dry dry them well in a cloth and and cover cover Desalt fillels pastry with the pastry with [hem them in in a a criss-cross criss-cross pattern. Sprinkle with with the I tablespooo tablespoon finely finely chopped onions and distribute 20 20 black 1 (scant t olives on on top. top. Dress Dress with with 3 3 tablespoons tablespoons (seant olives I cup) olive (3 tablespoons) pissalat (q.v.). (q.v.). oil mixed with with 2 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) pissalal oil in a a slow oven. oven. Serve Serve very hot. Cook in Anchoyade 1 IDesalt and and scrape fiJlets fillets of of anchovy and Anchoyade - Desalt step them for for several several minutes in in olive oil oil to whieh which chopped chopped steep garlic and ground pepper pepper have and ground have been added. garlic pieces of Arrange the the flllets fillets on on large peces of crust crust eut from the cut from Arrange part of lower part of home-made bread. Crush the fiJlets fillets ooto onto the Jower pieces of bread thern with with other other pieces brpad cut of bread cut into into bread by by pressing pressing them squares, which are then The diners diners eat eat these squares, which are then removed. removed. The with squares one after the other, as they become impregnated with anchovy. anchovy. Moisten the crusts with with the the oil oil in in which Moisten the crusts wruch the fillets flllets have grill. soaked, and and grill. This Provengal dish dish is This is known known in in the Bouches-du-Rh6ne Bouches-du-Rhne district of quichel. district under under the name na me of Etichet. Archoyade II - Desalt of anchovy. Pound, moistenAncboyade IlDesalt fillets fillets of ing with and vinegar. with a a few few tablespoons I.2.blespoons olive oil oil and Spread this Cover with on large slices slices of of bread. bread. Cover [his pur6e on slices of eggs and minced onions. Add a few of hard-boiled eggs minced onions. Add a slices drops oil, season pepper and drops of of olive olive oi!, season with with freshly ground ground pepper heat heat lightly lightly in in the the oven. oven. Attereaux to the the method melhod of of cooking on Attereaux - Name N ame given to skewers, skewers, in in which which the the ingredients, instead of of being grilled, are are coated coated with with a a sauce, sauce, dipped into into egg egg and breadcrumbs, and and fried. fried. All Ali the the ingredients Ingredients are first first cooked, then theo cut cut into into pieces. pieces. Any ingredient for attereaux Ingredient used used for allereaux must be be quite cold before it is put on on a a wooden wooden or or metal metal skewer. skewer. The different diiferent ingredients used used are are garnished garnished according according to ta their their nature with with mushrooms, mushrooms, truffes, truffles, etc. etc. The The sauce sauce must must be he thick thick and and almost almost cold. cold. When When the the skewer skewer is is full full and and coated coated with with sauce sauce it it is is left left to ta get quite quite cold before it I is is dipped into egg and and breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. Attereaux are are fried just just before serving, drained and and dried, dried, arranged on on a a napkin napkin and and garnished garoished with fresh fresh parsley. parsley. If ]f wooden waoden skewers skewers are are used used they they are taken taken out when the the cooking serving. cooking is is finished finished and and replaced by by silver skewers skewers for 1"''''''''~''J ..'l,n Use Use short short metal metal skewers instead instead of of wooden wooden ones ones if possible. This This does does away away with with the the necessity nece.ssity of of replacing replacing the the skewers after after cooking. cooking. In In ancient ancient times times attereaux attereaux wete were served served as as an an entrie entre volante volante or or small small enftie. entre. They were were served served in in a circle on a a crust crust of of fried fried sandwich sandwich bread, or or on on a a foundation foundation of of rice. nce. All of meat, meat, fish, fish, shellflsh shellfish and and a a variety variety of of other other Ali kinds kinds of food, food, cut eut into into small small square square pieces, pieces, can cao be he used used for for attereaux. attereaux. The The sauce sauce can can be he white white or or brown, brown, made made from from meat, meat, fish fish
470

or vegetable vegetable stock. stock, according according ta to the the principal ingredient ingredient of of or the atlereaux. attereaux. Thjs This ingredient given to ingredient rti>II the ... ,.,ml1nP< the name determines name given to the attereaux attereaux on on the the menu. menu. the Attereaux i l'carlate l'6carhte -- Pickled Pickled or or smoked smoked tangue, tongue, Attereaux mushrooms and and truffies trufres coated coated with with thick thick Velout Velouti sauce sauce mushrooms (see SAUCE) puree added. SAUCE) with with tomato tomato pure added. (sec Attereaux la Villeroi I la Villeroi -- Brains. Brains, cocks' cocks' combs combs or or combs combs of of Attereaux gras, sweetbreads. other birds. birds, foie sweetbreads, cocks' cocks'kidneys, etc. The The other kidneys, etc. foie gras, dish may may be be completed completod with with the the addtons additions of of mushrooms. mushrooms, dish pickled tongue, truffies, artichoke artichoke hearts, hearts, pickled ham, etc. tongue, harn, etc. Poultry Poultry truffles. or other cold cold meat meat can can be be used used in in the same way. the same way. Coat with Coat with or Villeroi sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Villeroi ATTEREAUX on ::::.:R crnveI,rn Attereaux of brain i I'ancienne. A TfEREAUX DE VELLE A L'.a,NcIENNE Poached brain, brain, mushrooms mushrooms and and truffies trufles L'ANCIENNE - Poached coated with with Villeroi sauce (see SA SAUCE). coated UCE). Attereaux ofbnn of brain A ltitalienne. ATTEREAUX ATTEREAT.TX DE oe CERVELLE cERvnr-l.g Attere1!UX A L'ITALIENNE Poached brain, brain, haro ham and and mushrooms coated L'ITALIENNE coated - Poached with Duxelles sauce (see SA SAUCE). with U CE). la mirepoix. nirepoix. A brain i la ATTEREAT.TX DE CER ctsRvELLE TTEREAUX DE VELLE Attereaux of bram A LA r.l MIREPOlX rr,rnnpoD( -. Poached brain and harn ham coated brain and coated with with - Poached mirepoix (q.v.) of (see of vegetables blended blended with with Villeroi sauce (see mirepoix sAUCE). SAUCE). Attereaux of cbicken chicken livers i hl la duxeUes. duxelles. AITEREAUX ATTEREAUX DE DE Attereaux FoIEs DE VOLAILLE voLATLLE A LA r,c, DUXELLES ouxerrss Chicke,n Iivers livers browned fOIES - Chicken lightly in butter and mushrooms eoaled coated with with Duxelles sauce (see SAUCE). (see Attereaux of of cocks' cocks' combs combs Il i l'ancienne. l'ancienne. AT11:lREAUX ATTEREAIx DE Attereaux cRErEs DE DE COQ coe A r'lNcrrNr*s Cocks' combs combs stuffed stuffed cR!n:.s L'ANCIENNE Cocks' ri la /a (q.v.), ham &txelles (q.v.), and mushrooms coated coated with with Villeroi duxelles haro and (see SAUCE) with tomatoes. sauce (see Attereaux lobster. ATTEREATTx DE DE HoMARD Attereaux of lobs ter. ATTEREAUX HOMARD - Lobster, (see mushrooms and truffles trufres coated coated with with Villeroi Villeroi sauce sauce (see mushroorns and SAUCE) or Shellfish Shellfish butter butter (see BUTTER', Compound Compound SA UCE) or (see BUTTER, butters\. butters). Attereaux of of oysters. ATTERBALx Attereaux ATfEREAUX n'HulTnns D'HuTRES - Poached Poached (xe oysters and coated with with Villeroi Villeroi sauce sauce (see and mushrooms coated SAUCE) based on fish flsh stock. Attereaux i La la royale and i la Attereaux of of Parmesan, Pa!'tlleSSIl, also knonm knOWll as princesse. ATTEREALx AU princesse. ATTBREAUX AU IARITTEsAN PARMESAN - Cook a stiff semolina with Spread out to with Parmesan. Spread 10 cool on a a baking sheet in a 2tctn. ~-cm. (finch) (i-nch) layer. layer. When quite cold, cut eut into ioto circlets 21 cm. l-cm. (l (1 inch) in diameter. diameter. Put these on the the skewers, skewers, alternating alternating with with rounds of Gruydre Gruyre cheese. cheese. Coat with egg and breadcrumbs, crumbs. but not with any sauce. Attereaux ATI"EREAUX DE RIs RIS D'AGNEAU, D'AGNEAU, RIs RIS Attere.aux of sweetbreads. ATTEREALTX DE DE vEAUVEAU - Sweetbreads, Sweetbreads. mushrooms mushrooms and truffies coated coated with Villeroi VUleroi sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SA UCE). Attereaux Attereaux of various various vegetables vegetables. ATTEREATIx ATTEREAUX os DE LfcuMss LGUMESCooked Cooked or or parboiled vegetables, such such as as artichoke hearts, hearts, pumpkin, carrots, celeriac, etc. carrots, etc. One One of of these these or or various various combinations combinat ions can cao be used. Coat Coat with thick Bdchamel Bchamel sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SA UCE). Barquetteg Barquettes., gamished. garnisbed. BARe{JETTEs BARQUETTES cARNTES GARNIES - Oval-shaped tartlets tartlets lined lined with with different kinds kinds of of pastry (puff pastry, ordinary lining (pie) pastry, paslry, etc.) etc.) baked blind and filled with different ingredients. Roll out out the the pastry pastry 2l 2i mm. mm. ($ (~ inch) inch) thick. thick. Stamp Stamp the the dough dough out out with with a a fluted ftuted oval aval pastry-cutter. pastry-cutter. Butter Butter barquette barquette baking baking tins, tins, plain or fluted. fluted. Put Put the the cut-out eut-out pieces of of pastry into into the the moulds, pressing pressing well weIl down down so that that they cling cling to to all sides sides of of the the tins. tins. Prick Prick the the pastry pastry lining lining the the base base of the the tins tins to to prevent prevent blistering. Put Put greaseproof greaseproof paper paper in in each each and fill fil 1 the the tins tins with with dried peas or or rice. rice. Bake Bake in in a a moderate moderate oven oyen for 12 12 to to 15 15 minutes. minutes. Remove the the paper paper and and the the peas peas or or rice. rce. Take Take the tbe pastry pastry out out of of the the tins, tins. brush brush with with egg egg and and put put back baek into iOlo the the oven oven for for a a few few minutes minutes to to dry, dry, leaving leavll1g the the oven oven door door open. open. This This way way of of preparing prepanng pastry pastry is s called caUro baking baking blind blind (un(un-

HORS-D'(EUVRE HORS-D'UVRE

filld). The The reason for filling filling the reason for the tartlets tartlets with with dried drid ve~~et<lblc~s vegetables filled). (which are or cereals cereals (which are mken taken out out after after cooking cooking and can be or used again) again) is is to keep the to keep the pastry uniformly hollow. hollow. used Fillings for barEtettes. The ingredients of the the fillings fiIlings vary vary Fillings for barquettes. according to to the the recipe recipe chosen. chosen. The most pur6es, most usual usual are are pures, according ragofrts and and salpicons. You can salpicons. You can also also fil] fill barquettes barquettes with with the the ragots garnishes given for patties, tartlets, for patties, tartlets, etc. etc. garnishes Once filled, serve serve the the barquettes barquettes as tley are, as they are, or or sprinkle sprinkle Once with fried fried breadcrumbs grated cheese breadcrumbs or or grated cheese and and brown brown under under with grill. Decorate the grill. Decorate as indicated in as indicated in the the recipe. recipe. the Serving barquettes. barquettes. Cover Cover a a dish dish with paper with a a napkin napkin or or aa paper Serving doyley and and arrange arrange the the barquettes barquettes on on i1. it. Garnish Garnish with with doyley parsley. parsley. Barqtettes can can be be served served as as a a small small entre entrie or or entre enffde Barquelles volante.In this case should be case they should be baked baked in in slightly slightly bigger bigger In this volante. than for for hors-d'euvre. moulds than Barquettes A l'amricaine I'am6ricaine -- Fill Fill with with a a salpicon salpicon (q.v.) of Harqllettes spiny lobster and spiny r,'-'C"T'r.n and Lobster Lobster l'amiricairc (se LOBSTER), d l'amricaine sprinkle with with fried fried breadcrumbs put in the ove,n for a breadcrumbs and and put sprinkle short time. short Barquettes witb with ancbovies. anchovies. BARQUETTES sAReuETTEs AUX Aux ANCHOIS ANcHors -Barquettes Desalt anchovy fillets. fillets. Dice Dice mushrooms mushrooms and' and'onions Desalt on ions and and cook slowly slowly in butter. Blend ail butter. Blend all together together with with Bchamel Bicharnel cook (s* SAUCE). SAUCE). Bake Bake the the barquettes barqtettes blind sauce (see blind and and fill fill them them the above salpicon. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with breadcrumbs breadcrumbs fried with the fried in in butter and and drained. drained. Put Put into into a very hot hot oven a very oven for for a butter a few few minutes. Barquettes i la bouquetire Blend mixed bonquetiCre Barquettes mixed vegetables with with - Blend (see SAUCE). Bicharnel or or Velout Velouti sauce (see Bchamel Fill the barquettes SAUCE). Fill barEtettes and put on each a a small small bouquet of and of asparagus asparagus tips. tips. Barquettes witb with cbestnuts. chestnuts. BARQUETTES BAReUETTEs AUX Barquettes Aux MARRONS MARRoNs -(see DOUGH) Use Fine Use Fine lining paste (see DOUGTI) and and bake bake cases cases for for barEtettes, as as indicated above. purie barquettes, above. Fill Fill with with Chestnut Chestnut pure CHESTNU-[). Pile the puree into a (see CHESTNUT). the pure a dome dome and and smooth smooth the surface. grated Parmesan surface. Sprinkle the Sprinkle with with grated Parmesan cheese. cheese. Pour Pour melted butter over it and brown in in a a hot oven. Barquettes witb Halrquett415 with mussels. mussels. BARQUETTES BAReUETTEs DE DE MOULES MouLEs -- PrePrepare Mussels (see MUSSELS), d la la poulette (see pare MUSSELS), fill fill the the bWbarquettes, sprinkle fried breadcrumbs over them, and quelles, sprinkle in the the and put in oven for a few minutes. BarErettes Barquettes witb with oysters. BARQUETTES BAReT,JETTEs D'HuTRES o'lrulrnrs -- Poach the the oysters oysters and and drain. Fill Fill the the barEtettes and and cover cover with (se SAUCE). Brown in a very hot oven. Oyster sauce (see Barquettes witb with sbrimps. shrinps. BARQUETTES BAReTJETTES DE DE CREVETTES cREvETTEs -Make a ragofrt of shrimp a ragot shrimp tails. tails. FiJI Fill the the barquettes. barquettes. Spoon Spoon over (se SAUCE). over some sorne Mornay Mornay sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Sprinkle Sprinkle with with cheese and brown under the grill. Beuuecks i la Banrrecks (8 oz., la trrque 1 g. (8 IDice 225 225 g. oz., 2 2 cups) - Dice Gruyre cheese, mix with 1 tablespoons, scant * cup) Gruydre I dl. (6 tablespoons, c.rp) Bchamel sauce (see thick, almost cold, Bichamel (se SAUCE) and leave to get quite cold. mixture into into small small portions of Divide the mixture of about about 50 50 g. (2 oz.) and and mould into cigar cigar shapes. Make sorne some ordinary Q noodle paste paste (see (see NOODLES, NOODLES, Fresh noodles), noodles), roll noodle roll out enclose each each portion portion of cheese wafer thin, enclose cheese mixture in in an an piece of of noodle noodle paste, dip in egg and breadcrumbs and oval piece serving. fry just before serving. Beun'ecl{s i Ia la furqne turque tr II - Make Make the the mixture mixture of of chee se and Benrrecks cheese Bchamel sauce sauce as as in the above above recipe. Bichamel Make ordinary noodle noodle paste, pas te, roll out wafer thin, cut into Make round pieces, pieces, put the cheese cheese and Bicharnel Bchamel mixture on on the round paste and fold fold it like a a turnover. turnover. Dip in egg egg and and breadpaste crumbs and and fry just just before before serving. serving. crumbs - Blinis are are pancakes pancakes made with Blinis (Russian cookery) Blinis with popular in Russia. Russia. They are often served served with with yeast, very very popular yeast, with sour fresh caviare caviare sprinkled with with melted melted butter, butter, or with fresh cream. cream. First method. method. Dilute Dilute I 7 g.Goz.) g. (i oz.) yeast in 2 2 dl. $ (t pint, scant scant First
471 471

passthrough cup) warm warm milk. milk. Mix. Mix, do do not not let let curdle, curdle,pass through aa generous cup) strainer. Sieve Sieve 125 125 g.(4 oz., oz.,generous cup)white whiteBour flourand and (5oz., 150g. oz., lf cups) buckwheatflour,and andmixtogetherwith 150 g. (5 mix pinchof salt. Put inaabowl ofsalt. bowland and addthe aapinch the liquid. Mix in the yolks of pasteshould of 33eggs. eggs. The The paste should have have theconsisteney yolks consistencyof of pancake batter batter and andcare careshould should be betaken takeota tokeep keepit pancake itlight. light. place for rise in l*,aveto to rise inaawarm warm place for 22hours. hours. Leave (scant { pint, generous Add2 beaten egg eggwhites whitesand Add 2 beaten and2l dl. dl. (scant cup) whipped whipped cream. eup) cream. Cover Coverand and leaveto torise rise for 20minutes. minutes. (9 oz., Second Second method. method. Make Makeaa yeast batter g.(9 batterusing using 250 250 g. g. G oz.) yeast, 2f cups) cups) sifted yeas!and (scant I siftedflour, flour, 15 15 g. and2! 2ldl. dl.(scant pint, generous generous cup) placefor cup) warm wann milk. Leave in inaawarm warmplace for 2 hours. hours. (4i oz., g. (4!Add 125 125 g. Add pinch of oz., generous cup) cup) flour, flour,aapineh ofsalt, salt,22 yolks and pint,3 egg yolks egg 1cup) and It lj dl. dl. $ pint, cup) warm wann milk. milk. Mix. Mix. Add Add 22 beaten egg beaten egg whites. whites. Cover Cover and and leave leave to to rise rise for for 30 30 minutes. minutes. Third Third method. method. Put Put into into aa bowl bowl 250 250 g. (9 o2.,2| cups) buckwheat (1 oz.) buckwheat flour yeast. Moisten with 2i flour and and 25 25 g. oz.) yeast. 2+ dl. e.0 (scant -! pint, generous generous cup) (seant cup) warm warm water. water. Leave Leave to toferment ferment in in * pint, place for a a cool cool place for 4 4 hours. hours. Add Add 125 125 g. E.(4i oz., generous cup) fine white flour, a pinch of of salt, salt, 2 2 egg l| dl. dl. $ pint, 3 cup) wann cream. egg yolks and I-! Mix, Mix, add add 2 2 firmly firmly beaten beaten egg egg whites and half their their volume volume of of whipped whipped cream, cream, and and leave leave to to rise rise for for 20 20 minutes. minutes. Blinis maiz.e(corn) (corn) Bour. Bliniscan rice Bour can also also be made of of rice flour or or maize be made flour. In France, blinis Cooking of of blinis. blinis.In are eooked cooked in in the blinis are thesame same wayas pancakes @rApes). way as ordinary pancakes In In Russia, cast-iron frying pans, Russia, blinisare are fried in special cast-iron divided 'nests', in divided into up to to 6 6 small, small, inclivj.dual individual in which up into Bat flat'nests', pancakes pancakes can They are very hot, hot, are served can be be cooked cooked at at once. once. They served very with cream, chopped chopped hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs eggs in in with melted melted butter, butter, sour sour cream, melted herring, melted butter, caviare, smoked smoked salmon, salmon, ki/ki, kilki,salted sn'lted herring, and and other other similar'fishy' foods. foods. Blinis Arx CAROTTES Dice 1 I tabletableBlinis with wift carrots. carrots. BLINIS BLINIS AUX cARorrrS -- Dice spoon pour the the blini blini mixture mixture and pour spoon carrots, carrots, cook cook in in butter butter and over. over. Continue Continue as as usual. usual. Blinis V1AR - Prepare the AU CA the blinis blinis Blinis witb wiih caviare. caviare. BLINIS BLINIs AU cAvIAR according methods described described above. to one one of of the the methods according to Serve piping hot Serve piping hot with with fresh fresh caviare, caviare, melted melted butter butter and and sour sour eream. cream. Blinis putting the BLTNIs AUX Ar.x OEUFS oruFs -- Before Before putting Btinis witb with eggs. eggs. BLINIS the blini blini mixture mnture into into a a buttered buttered frying pan, sprinkle sprinkle into into the the pan pan 1 I tablespoon eggs. tablespoon chopped chopped hard-boiled eggs. Cook blinis in in the the usual usual way. way. Cook the the blinis Litbuanian LIVoNTENS -- Mix Mix in BLrMs LlVONNS a bowl bowl 4 4 in a Lithuanirn blinis. blinis. BLlNlS mblespoons (* cup) tablespoons (1 flour and and 4 4 whole whole eggs. Add, Add, !ittle little by by cup) Bour !iule, glasses of pinch of little, 4 4 glasses milk, a of salt salt and a a pinch sugar. of sugar. of milk, a pinch of Add (* cup) 4 mblespoons tablespoons (t cup) Add 4 4 beaten beaten egg egg whites and and 4 whipped eream. cream. Cook n the Cook the the blinis blinis in the usual usual way. way. Brioches, garnished. BRJOCHES Briocheg gamished. BRrocHEs GARNIES cARNIES -- These These brioches brioches must be very small. They are are often often served served as as patties. be very small. They Use the Bake the unsweetened brioche brioche dough. Bake ordinary unsweetened Use ordinary brioches fluted moulds moulds in in the the shape shape of of Brioches Brioches brioches in in very very small small fiuted d tte tAte (see BRIOCHE). BRIOCHE). Leave heads, keeping to Leave them to cool. cool. Remove Remove the the heads, keeping them them to the,m to serve not to to serve as as lids. lids. Scoop out out the the brioches, brioches, mking taking eare care not break few minutes minutes in in the the oven the break them. them. Dry Dry them for for a a few with the oven with door open. open. Small Brioches d tte ftte may may be be filled filled with with the the same same ininSmall Brioches gredients (see below). garnished, gredients as as gwen for for PaUies Patties (see below). When When garnished, put put the put in the brioches and put in the the oven oven for for a a the heads back on on the brioches and few seconds. seconds. Small garnished brioches as an can be an accompaniSmall garnished brioches can be used usod as accompaniment for ment for large various kinds. kinds. large dishes dishes of of various Brocbett41:S - Prepare brochettes brochettes according according to to the the recipes Brochettes given (See SKEWER, given in in their order. (See SKEWER, BEEF, their alphabetical order.

ct

HORS-D'UVRE HORS.D'(EUVRE
mutton on Fil/el of beef on on skewers, MUTION, Fillets Fille/s of mullon skewers, MUTTON, Fillet
skewers.) Brochel/es served as an hors-d'euvre hors-d'uvre should be very much Brochettes en/re. smaller than those prepared for an entrie.

Brocbettes de de Parme - Another Another name for for Attereaux AUereaux of Brochettes (See Attereanx Allereaux above.) above.) Parmesan. (Se BRocHETTES DE DE RIs RIS D'AGNEAU. D'AGNEAU, Brochettes of sweetbreads. BROCHETTES cut calf sweetbreads, sweetbreads, eut RIS DE vEAU VEAU - Parboil Parboil or braise braise lamb lamb or calf RIs them on metal metal skewers, alternating altemating into square square pieces. Put thern and, with rectangles rectangles of lean lean blanched bacon or lean Jean ham ham and, with if desired, desired, with cooked, sliced mushrooms. brochelles with melted butter, butter, roll in fine breadBrush the brochettes a moderate heat. crumbs and grill under a (smrll gamished Caissettes (small gamisbed cases) receptCaissettes - Round or oval receptacles made of ovenproof china, china, glass or metal, filled with

(q.v.), salpicons (q.v.) or ragofits (q.v.), salpicons (q.v.) ragots or similar similar ingredients. same Recipes for these are given elsewhere; me as elsewhere; they are the sa barquettes, patties, pies, tartlets, etc. for barquelles, According to the nature of the garnish used used the cases are sprinkled with breadcrumbs sprinkJed breadcrum bs or grated cheese and put under grill. Alternatively, they the sprinkled with the grill. they may may be be sprinkled with welldrained fried breadcrumbs, and put in in the the oyen. A third drained fried and put oven. A third possibility decorate the cases with trufles, trumes, mushrooms, possibility is to decorate etc. garnished toast. Canapds or or gamisbed cANArfs, TOASTS ro^Lsrs GARNIS cARNIS Canaps toast. CANAPS, Cut the canaps canapis from a a sandwich loaf, having first removed the crust. Shape them, as required, into squares, rectangles, rectangles, ovals or rounds. Toast the slices on both sides, butter them or spread with whatever ingredient is indicated in the chosen (q.v.), pur6es, salpicon salpicon (q.v,), recipe eggs, pures, recipe (forcemeat, scrambled eggs, etc.). Garnish Garnish the the canaps canapis as as indicated, sprinkle with with freshly grated breadcrumbs, fried grated cheese, or grated grated fried breadcrumbs or to the garnish used, and according to them in and grill, or brown thern in oven. Arrange Arrange on a paper doyley or napkin napkin and decorate the oyen. with green curly parsley. for canaps from those canapis are are numerous. Apart from Garnishes for grven in you can recipes which in the which follow, follow, you giveo the recipes use a11 can use all those indicated indicatod in the section on Crotes section on Crofrtes (see below), below). Canapds with bloater. bloater. CANAPS c.lN.lpfs AU BLoATm, Cut sandCanaps AU BLOATER - Cut wich Joaf bloater pur6e, pure, to loaf ioto into rounds and and toast. Heap the bloater (se SAUCE) and have been which Bichamel Bchamel sauce which sauce (see and butter have added, added, on the rounds, and and heat in the the oven. Alternatively, garnish the canaps canapis as indicated above, but grated Parmesan sprinkle them with grated Parmesan cheese and brown them in the oven. Canapes with bard-boiled hard-boiled eggs. CANAPS c.lNlpfs Ar,rx IEUFS DURSDrJRs Canaps AUX UFS hard-boiled eggs blended blended with Bichamel Spread a salpicon of hard-boiled Bchamel (see SAUCE), on sauce (see on rectangular pieces of toast. toast. Coyer Cover sauce with two hard-boiled egg. Fry breade~ch each piece with two rounds of hard-boiled egg. Fry crumbs in and in butter, drain weil, well, sprinkle sprinkle on on the the canaps, cmmbs canapis, and brown lightly ligbtly in the oven. Canapes \\llh with scrambled scrambled eggs. Atrx UFS truls Canaps egEs. CANAPS clNlpfs AUX of toast with scrambled scrambled eggs BROU1LLS BRouILLfs Cover rounds rounds of toast with - Coyer grated Pannesan Parmesan chee cheese arranged in se in a a dome. dome. Sprinkle Sprinkle with grated and and brown in the oyen. oven. la fiorcntine florentine sandwich bread. Canaps bread. Canaps i la - Toast rounds of sandwich a sieve, sieve. Blend Parboil sorne some spinach, spinach, drain and rub through through a Parboil (se SAUCE) SAUCE) and and spread on the the with thick Bchamel Bichamel sauce sauce (see grated Pannesan and brown in in toast. with grated Parmesan cheese and toast. Sprinkle Sprinkle with the oyen. oven. AU FROMAGE FRoMAGE DE Canaps cheese. CANAPS clNnpfs AU Canrps with with Gruyre Gnybre cheese, Bi c hame I of thick Bchamel GRUYRE cRUytRB the canaps canapis with a layer of - Spread the (se SAUCE) to grated Gruyre and a a Gruyire cheese and sauce sauce (see to which grated pinch of cayenne have been been added. added. Scatter Scatter diced diced Gmyere Gruydre pinch cayenne have and brown in in the the oyen. oven. chee se over the cheese the canaps canapis and Canaps made in in the the same same way way with with Cheshire, Cheshire, Canapis can can be be made Edam or Pannesan Parmesan cheese.
472

Canaps bam. cANApEs CANAPS AU JAMBoN JAMBON - Cut Cut a sandwich Canapes with han. and toast. loaf Joar into oval-shaped slices and toast. Make a a salpicon salpicon of York or Prague Prague ham and blend it il with a concentrated Demiglace sauce SAUCE) sauce (see SA UCE) to which which chopped parsley parsley has has been added. Spread Spread the salpicon salpicon on the toast. each canap. canapi. Fry slices of ham in butter and put one on on each Sprinkle with breadcrumbs fried in butter. Sprinkle butter, sudines. c,tNApfs Canaps with wilh sardines. CANAPS AIx AUX SARDINES - Toast Canap6s sardines. rectangular rectangular pieces of bread. Cover Coyer with fillets fillets of sardines. a napkin. Heat for a few moments in the oven. Arrange Arrange on a Altnernatively, make sardines in oil, mixed make a puree pure of of sardines mixed with add a a little hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs. eggs. Rub Rub through through a a sieve sieve and and add !ittle English Spread on the canaps canapds and arrange fillets English mustard. Spread fil lets sardines in oil of sardines oil on top. Sprinkle with Sprinkle with breadcrumbs which have have been been fried in butter and drained well. weil. Put in the oven for a few minutes. Season a pinch of cayenne serve. with a cayenne and serve. lobster or salpicon of lobster Canape Victoria Canaps a salpicon or spiny - Make a all cut into very small dice, lobster, trufres tmffies and mushrooms, ail (see SAUCE) SAUCE) and sauce (see blended with blended with thick thick Bichamel Bchamel sauce (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound finished off with Crayfish butter bul/er (see butters). lrnl/ers). with this this sa/pican, salpicon. Fry Spread toast Spread toast with Fry breadcrumbs breadcrumbs in sprinkle on the canaps. canapis. Put them in butter, drain well, weil, and sprinkle
the oven for a few moments. can be Cannelon$ gamished. Cannelons, gamisIH~d. cANNELoNs CANNELONS cARNIS GARNIS - These can as cornets. cornets. of rectangular rectangular shape or made as Rectangular. Roll out puff pastry in rectangles rectangles measuring (l| inches) 4 cm. (1 inches) by l0 10 cm. (4 inches). inches), of cold forcing-bag with a plain nozzle make make a line of Using a forcing-bag forcemeat or other mixture in the middle of the rectangles. rectangles. forcerneat cover with all around the forcemeat, and coyer Moisten the border Moisten border aU with pastry. Brush over with with egg egg and another rectangle of puff another puff pastry. bake in the oven. Cut the dough into straight ribbons Cornets. Cut Cornets. the dough into straight ribbons and and roll roll around special special'funnels' around 'funnels' (see CORNETS). and lill fill When the cornets are baked, take the funnels out and pur6e, fish or shellfish (q.v.), meat pure, the cornets. U* Use salpicons (q,v.), pur6e, pures should be rather thick. thick, pure, etc., fillings. The pur6es as fillings. etc., as patties, cassogarnishes given given for for barque/les, All barquettes, patties, the garnishes Ali the cannelons. lettes, and and similar dishes can can be be used lelles, used for canne/ons, glass, metal porcelain conor porcelain Individual glass, Casmlettes Cassolettes metal or -. lndividual arc for cassolelles cassolettes are The most most usual tainers. usual ingredients ingredients for tainers. The (q.v.), salpicons (q,v.) (q.v.) and pur6es, ragolts ragofits (q.v.), and similar preparapures, tions. with the border. Fil! Fill the cassolelles cassolettes with Cassolettes without a border. Cassolelles preparation indicated. indicated. preparation Sprinkle wilh with breadcrumbs fried in butter and drained, or, Sprinkle grated cheese. Brown Brown for a a according to the recipe used, with grated few moments in the oyen. oven. few potato.Ufi of Duchess Duchess pO/aIO, border of Cassolettes wilh with a border Casso/elles Use a forcing(see potato (see prpe a thin Duchess potato border of of Duchess and pipe thin border bag bag and round the edge edge of the cassolelle, cassolette. POTATOES) round with breadFill with the the preparation indicated, sprinkle with Fill grated cheese, frid in in butter and and drained, or with grated cmmbs crumbs fried and brown in the the oyen, oven. and Prepare the Duchess potato. Cassolettes topped topped with with Duchess Casso/elles pOla/o. Prepare Fill as as described described recipe. Fil! cassolettes as as indicated in the above recipc. casso/el/es potato (see POTA Duchess potGlO POTATOES) a layer of Duchess and coyer cover with a and TOES) pressing down to seal in the the contents. contents. Brush down on on the edges to seal in the edges pressing the oven. the top with egg egg and and brown brown in the and covered wilh with puff Cassolettes with with border and Casso/elles puff pasrry. pas/ry. Put rim of the casso/elles. cassolettes. narrow band of puffpastry round the rinI a narrow preparation, which should be co cold Fill them with the desired preparation, Id lukewarm. or lukewarm. pastry. Press a round the cassolelles cassolettes with with a Cover the Cover round of puff pastry, flower-shaped ornawell onto with flower-shaped onto the the border. border. Decorate with weil puff pastry. made from from puff motifs made ments or or other other motifs ments pastry. Brush with

gondola, a gondola. pAt6 served shaped like a a Ilapk.in napkin shaped potato cris.ps, served in a fennel, pt Hors d'uvre: crisps, feltnel. d'cuvre: potalo (M oustache. PhOL Nicolas) prawn cocktail Phot. Nicolas) cocktail (Moustache. avocado, avocado, prawn

Yi

HORS.D'(EUVRE HORS-D'UVRE
eggand and bake in the bakein the oyen ovenfor for 10 l0 to 12minutes. to 12 minutes. egg Cassolettesambassadriceambassadrice- Make Make aalid lidand andaaborder border for for the the Cassolettes cassolettes, using lusing Duchess potatoes (see Duchess potatoes (seePOT POTATOES). Fill cassolettes, A TOES). Fill with aa ragot ragofrt of of chicken chicken Iivers. livers. Put Put in in the theoyen oven for for aa few few with minutes. minutes. Cassolettes bouquetire burquetilre -- Make Make the the border border of of the the cassocassoCassolettes lettes with wth Duchess potatoes (see Duchess potatoes (see POT POTATOES). Fill with with aa A TOES). Fill lettes macidoine of of vegetables vegetables with with cream. cream. macdoine Put in in the the aven. oven. When When removed removed from from the put 1 the oyen oven put I Put tablespoon asparagus asparagus tips tips cooked cooked in in butter, butter, and and aa little little knob knob tablespoon of cauliBower, cauliflower, on each cassolette. cassolette. oneach of Cassolettes (with meat) i la la floreutine florentine (with IJse Duchess meat) -- Use Duchess Cassolettes potatoes (s@ POTATOES) to make the top of the cassolettes . (see POT ATOES) to make the top of the cassolettes. potatoes Put 1 I tablespoon tablespoon spinach spinach leaves leaves cooked cooked in in butter butter at at the the Put bottom. Put Put 1 I tablespoon tablespoon salpicon salpicon of of chicken chicken blended blended with with bottom. Veloutd sauce (see SAUCE) sauce (see SAUCE) on on the the spinach. spinach. Brown Brown in in the the Velout oven. oyen. gauloise -- Use Cassolettes la gauloise i la potatoes (see (see Use Duchess Duchess potatoes Cassolettes POTATOES) to make make the the border border of of the the cassolettes. cassolettes. Fill Fill POT A TOES) to with a a salpicon salpicon of of cocks' cocks' combs combs and and kidneys, kidneys, truffles truffies and and with mushrooms blended blended with (se SAUCE). with Velout Veloutd sauce sauce (see SAUCE). mushrooms Brown in in the the oyen. oven. Wh When removed from pan put put a from the the pan a Brown en removed cock's comb comb fried fried d la la Villeroi Villeroi on on each each cassolette. cassolette. cock's Cassolettes with with lobster lobster or or spiny spiny lobster. lobster. CASSOLETTES cAssoLETTEs AU AU Cassolettes HoMARD, A LA r,a LANGOUSTE L.lr.rcousrE -- Make Make the the border border or or top top of of HOMARD, whatever preparation preparation you you desire. desire. Fill Fill with with a a salpicon salpicon of of whatever lobster or spiny spiny lobs lobster blended with with cream cream and and finished finished off off lobs ter or ter blended with Cray.fish (see BUTTER, Crayfish butter butter (see BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). butters). with Brown in in the the oyen. oven. Brown Cassolettes marquise marquise Make the the border puff pastry. border of pastry. of puff - Make Cassolettes Fill with with Cray.fish Crayfish tail rago,frt tail ragot (see CRA d la la Nantua Nantua (see CRAyFISH) YFISH) Fill to which which diced diced truffies trufres and and mushrooms mushrooms have have been been added. added. to Bake in in the the oyen. oven. Bake Cassolettes Rgence Regence Make a a border border of of Duchess Duchess potatoes - Make Cassolettes potatoes (see POTATOES). Fill with a salpicon of breast of chicken (see POTA TOES). FiIl with a salpicon of breast of chicken and trufres cooked in Velout Velouti sauce (se SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). and truffies cooked in Bake in oven. Put large slice of truffie slice of truffie on on each each Bake in the the oven. Put a a large cassolette the oven, oven, and cassolette when when removed removed from from the and cover cover with with a a small bouquet cooked in small bouquet of of asparagus asparagus tips tips cooked in butter. butter. (without Cassolettes Sagan a border) salpicon - Fill Cassolettes Sagan (without a border) FiII with with a a salpicon of cookd n Velouti sauce of truffies truffles and and mushrooms mushrooms cooked in Velout sauce (s* (see SAUCE). Sprinkle Parmesan cheese. SAUCE). Sprinkle with with grated grated Parmesan chee se. Brown Brown in in the each cassolette very the oven. oven. When Wben taken taken out, out, put put on on each cassolette a a very small small slice slice of of calf's calf's brain brain saut6od sauted in in butter. butter. Cassolettes Cassolettes of of sweetbread. sweetbread. clssor,rrrEs CASSOLEITES DE DE Rrs RIS D'AcNEAU, D'AGNEAU, RIs RIS DE DE vEAU VEAU - These These can can have have a a border border or or be be served served plain. plain. Fill FiII with with a a salpicon salpicon of of sweetbread sweetbread blended blended with with Velouti Velout (see sauce SAUCE) to which which trufres truffies and and mushrooms mushrooms can can be be sauce (see SAUCE) to added, added, if if desired. desired. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with fried fried breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and brown brown in in the the oven. oven. Cassolettes la la v6nitienne vnitienne (without (without a a border) border) - Line Line the the Cassolettes i bottom of the bottom of the cassolettes cassolettes with with diced diced macaroni macaroni d I'italienne. l'italienne. Add Add I 1 tablespoon tablespoon ragofrt ragot of of sweetbreads, sweetbreads, trufles truffies and and mushmushrooms, rooms, if if desired. desired. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with fried fried breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and brown brown in in the the oven. oven. (U.S. Choux prfrs) cream paste Choux (U.S. cream puffs) - Using Using Ordinary Ordinary chou chou paste (see (see DOUGH), DOUGH), make make small smalt choux choux (cream (cream puffs), puffs) , the the size size of of pigeons'eggs. pigeons' eggs. After After the the choux choux are are cooked, cooked, split split the the sides sides open open and and fill fill with with whatever whatever preparation preparation is is indicatod indicated in in the the recipe recipe used. used. Heat Heat for for a a few few moments moments in in the the oven. oven. If If the the choux choux are are small smaIl enough enough they they can can be be used used as as a a garnish garnish for for large large dishes, dishes, or or served served as as savouries. savouries. Choux Choux can can be filled preparations with all be filled with ail the the preparations recommended recommended for for barbarquettes, tartlets and and other other similar similar dishes. dishes. quettes, cassolettes, cassolettes, tartlets Choux Choux with with cheese. cheese. cHotx CHOUX AU AU FRoMAcE FROMAGE - Filld Filled with with a a cream cream made made with with Cheshire, Cheshire, Gruydre Gruyre or or Parmesan Parmesan cheese. cheese. Choux Choux i la la maraichire marachre - Filled Filled with with a a salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) of of 473 473
Vegetables : radishes, carrots, celery, artichokes Vegetables: radishes, carrots, celery, artichokes and pumpkin with cooking pan and saucepans ( phot. Nicolas) and pumpkin with cooking pan and saucepans (Phol. Nicolas)

carrots, leeks, leeks, celery celery -- ail all cooked cooked in inbutter butter and and blended blended with with carrots, (see SA thick Bchamel Bichamel sauce sauce (see SAUCE). UCE). thick Choux I la la Nantua Nantua -- Filled pur6e of Filld with with aa pure of crayfish crayfish to Choux to whichchopped chopped truffles trufres have havebeen been added. added. which Choux I la la royale royale -- Filled puree of Filled with with aa pure of truffies trufles with Choux with cream. cream. Chonx i la la Saint-Hubert Saint-Hubert -- Filled pur6e of Filled with with aa pure game of game Choux blended with (see SA with Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE) based on on conconblended UCE) based game stock. centrated game stock. centrated la strasbourgeoise Choux i la strasburrgeoise -- Filled Filled with with aa salpicon salpicon of of foie Choux foie gras and and truffies truffies blended blended with with concentrated concentrated Demi-glace Demi-glace gras (see SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). sauce Choux i la h toulousaine toulousaine -- Filled Filld with with a a salpicon salpicon of of sweetsweetChoux breads, cocks' cocks'combs and cocks' cocks'kidneys, mushrooms and and breads, combs and kidneys, mushroms trufles blended (see SAUCE). blended with Allemande sauce with Allemande sauce (see SAUCE). truffies Choux au au vert-pr vert-pr6 -- FiIled Filled with puree of green beans, with a a pure of green beans, Choux green peas peas and and asparagus asparagus tips tips blended blended with with cream. cream. green (Polish cookery) Cierniki (Polish cookery) -- Mix Mix in g. (8 (8 oz.) in a a terrine terrine 225 225 g. oz.) Cierniki pressed white g. (4 (4 oz., white cheese, cheese, 100 100 g. oz., 1 I cup) cup) sifted g. pressed sifted flour, flour, 50 50 g. (2 oz., oz., i* cup) cup) melted melted butter butter and and 3 3 eggs. eggs. Season Season with with salt, sali, (2 pepper and grated nutmeg. and grated nutmeg. Blend Blend these these ingredients ingredients with with a pepper a spatula and gradually work and gradually work in in a g. (3 a further further 75 75 g. oz., -i spatula cup) Q oz., I cup) flour. flour. Experiment with with poaching 1 I teaspoon teaspoon of of this this mixture mixture in in Experiment boiling water. water. If If it it is is not not thick thick enough enough add add a a little little more more boiling flour, if if it is too it is too thick, thick, lighten lighten it it with with 1 I or or 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons Bour, cream. Sprinkle flour flour on on a a table and and roll roll the the mixture mixture out out on Sprinkle on it. galettes 5 (2 inches) Shape into into small galelles 5 cm. cm. (2 inches) in in diameter and Shape I cm. cm. (i inch) thick. thick. Poach Poach for for 15 15 to to 18 18 minutes in in boiling 1 G inch) drain, arrange in in a a pie dish dish and and pour melted butter water, drain, over them. over Cocks' combs. combs. CRTES cn6res DE DE COQ coe -- For For two two recipes recipes using Cocks' cocks' combs see se Attereaux Attereaux and and, Fritot in this section. section. cocks' Cocks'combs Villeroi. CRTES cnErrs DE DE COQ coe VILLEROI vrLLERor Cocks' combs Villeroi. - Drain cocks' combs cooked cooked in in a (q.v.) and a white court-bouillon (q.v.) cocks' put lukewarm Villeroi (se SAUCE). Villeroi sauce (see SAUCE). put them in a lukewann Take them out and dip than Take them one by one in finely grated breadcrumbs. Each cock's comb must be completely covered. Dip in beaten ed. Dip in beaten egg and again in breadcrumbs. Fryjust a napkin or arrange Fry just before serving and heap on a in in a nest of straw potatoes. Garnish Garnish with fried parsley. parsley. Serve Serve with with Tomato Tomato sauce sauce or or Pirigueux Prigueux sauce(see sauce (see SAUCE). SA UCE). Sfufrd Stuffed cocks' cocks' combs combs Villeroi. Villeroi. cnfirBs CRTES DE DE ooe COQ FARcrEs FARCIES vILLERoT VILLEROIChoose very large large cocks'combs. cocks' combs. Cook, and then th en - Choose open open them on the fleshy fieshy side without without cutting right right through. through. Stuffthem Stuff them with with a a little \ittle forcemeat. Complete Complete the the cooking cooking and serying seJ,'Ving as in the the preceding preceding recipe. recipe. Cocks' Cocks' combs combs can can be be stuffed stuffed with with forcemeats, forcemeats, or or pur6es pures of mushrooms, mushrooms, foie foie gras, gras, different different vegetables, vegetables, duxelles duxelles (q.v.), (q.v.), brunoise brunoise (q.v.), (q.v.), portugaise portugaise (q.v.), (q.v.), etc. Cocks' Cocks' kidneys. kidneys. RocNoNs ROGNONS DE DE coe COQ - Cook kidneys kidneys in in Court-bouillon Court-bouillon I 1 (see (see COURT-BOUILLOI$. COURT-BOUILLON). Then follow follow any any of of the the recipes recipes for for cocks' cocks' combs combs in in this this section. section. Colombines Colombines - Line Line buttered buttered tartlet tartlet tins tins with with a a semolina semolina mixture mixture flavoured flavoured with with Parmesan Parmesan cheese. cheese. Fill Fill the the tins tins with with a a salpicon salpicon (q.v.), (q.v.), a a pur6e pure or or any any other other mixture mixture generally generally used used for for barquettes, barquettes, patties patties and and similar similar dishes. dishes. Cover Cover with with a a thin thin layer layer of of semolina. semoIina. Dip Dip the the tins tins into into wann warrn water water and and lurn Jurn out out the the tartlets. tartlets. Dip Dip them them in in egg egg and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and deep-fry. deep-fry. Serve Serve with with fried fried parsley. parsley. Craquelins - Croquettes Croquettes prepared prepared with with stuffed stuffed pancakes pancakes ..Craquelins (crpes). (crpes). This This hors-d'euvre hors-d'uvre is is better better known known under under the the name name of ofpannequet. pannequet. Crayfish. Crayfish. tcnsvrssss CREVISSES - Small Small crayfish, crayfish, cooked cooked d h la nage, nage, d la la mariniire, marinire, or or d la la liigeoise, ligeoise, can can be be servod served as as hot hot ftorshorsd'euvre. Crayfish tails tails are are often often used used as as the the principal principal d'uvre. Crayfish

HORS.D'(EUVRE HORS-D'UVRE
ingredient ingredient in in hot hot hors-d'euvre hors-d'uvre such such as as fitters, fltters, croquettes, croquettes, stuffed sluffed potatoes, potatoes, rissoles, rissoles, souff6s souffls or or tartlets. tartlets.
Cromesquis Cromesquis -See - See Kromeskles Kromeskies in in this this section. section.

ingredients ingredients and and the Ihe croquettes croquettes served served with with Tomato Toma/o sauce sauce Diced Diced mushrooms mushrooms and and truffies truffles can can also also be be added added to 10 the the ingredients ingredients of of fish fish croquettes. croquettes. Foie Foie gras gras croquettes croquettes t ta la P6rigueux. Prigueux. cRoQUETTES CRQUETI"ES DE DE FoIE FOIE GRAS GRAS A r,c, LA pfntcurttx PRIGUEUX - Salpicon Salpicon of of foie foie gras gras and and truffies, trumes, blended blended with with a a very very strong strong Demi'glace Demi-glace sauce sauce flavoured flavoured with with Madeira, Madeira, or or with with Allemande Allemande sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Shape Shape into into little little flat fiat cakes, cakes, and and serve serve with with Pdrigueux Prigueux sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SA UCE), Foie Foie gras gras croquettes croquettes i la III reine. reine, cRoQUETTES CROQUETfES DE DE FoIE FOIE GRAs GRAS A LA LA REINE REINE - Salpicon Salpicon of of foie foie gras, gras, bound bound with with Allemande Allemande sauce sauce (see (sec SAUCE). SAUCE). Shape Shape into into little little flat fiat cakes cakes and and serve serve with SuprAme Suprme sauce sauce (see (sec SAUCE), SAUCE), adding adding truffies' Iruffies. Game Game croquettes. cRoQUETTEs CROQUETTES DE DE cIBIER GIBIER - Salpicon Salpicon of of game garne left-overs, left-overs, mushrooms mushrooms and and truffieq truffles, blended blended with witb very very concentrated concentrated Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (sa (sec SAUCE). SAUCE). Serve Serve with with demi-glace demi-glace sauce sauce basd based on on concentrated concenlraled game game stock. stock. On the the menu, name name the the croquettes croquettes after arter the the game game which which pheasant $oquettes, is is predominant predominant in in their their preparation, preparation, e.9., e.g.,pheasan/ croquelles, etc. v o quet t e s, etc. enison cr venison croquelles, Croquettes Croquettes can can be be prepared prepared from from a a mixture mixture of of different diffcrenl kinds kinds of of game. game. I. cnoQuerrEs Lobster croquettes I. CROQUETTES DE DE HoMARD HOMARD - Salpicon Salpicon of of lobster lobstcr to which diced diced mushrooms mushrooms and and truffies truffles have have been been SAUCE). added, added, blended with with thick thick Bichamel Bchamel sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). (see SAUCE). White wine sauce (see Serve Serve with with White >vine sauce SAUCE). II. cnoQunrrss Iobster Lobsler croquettes croquettes H. CROQUETTES DE DE HoMARD HOMARD - Salpicon Salpicon with Allemande and trufres, of lobster, lobs ter, mushrooms mllshrooms and truffles, blended blended with Allemande (see (se SAUCE), butter (see with Crayjish Crayfish buller SAUCE), finished sauce (sec finished with sauce shellfish butter. butters) or Compound bUllers) BUTIER, Compound BUTTER, or any any shellfish butter. (see SAUCE). sauce (sec SAUCE). Lobster sauce Serve with with Lobsler TwoDE HoMARD III. CROQUETI"ES cnoQurrrEs DE Lobster croquettes croquettes m. - TwoLobster HOMARD or in meat rice cooked cooked in one-third rice lobster, one-third salpicon of of lobster, thirds thirds salpicon meat or fish stock. fish (se SAUCE) white made with with white SAUCE) made sauce (sec with Lobs/er Lobster sauce Serve with wine. It is is shellfish. It preparation appHes to ail all shellfish. applies to of preparation This method method of This practical way up left-overs. left-overs. way of of using a practical a using up potato quantity of left-overs, potato of leftovers, not a a slIfficient sufficient quantity If there is is not If pur6e to the the salpicon. salpicon. rice can can be be added added to or rice pure or MAcADE MACAcRoQUETTES DE valentinoise. CROQUETTES Mraroni croquettes croquettes valenllnoise. Macaroni with blended with of big macaroni, blended Salpicon of big macaroni, VALENTINoIsE -- Salpicon Rortr VALENTINOISE RONl grated cheese (see SAUCE) cheese which grated SAUCE) to to which Bicharnel sauce sauce (sec thrck Bechamel truck has been added. been added. has I cm. cm. in a a layer layer 1 shallow dish dish in a shallow macaroni on on a Spread the the macaroni Spread (q.v.) la Nan/ua to d la Nantun to layer of of salpicon salpicon (q.v.) a layer Add a inch) thick. thick. Add <t G incb) second with a a second have been Cover with been added. truffies have added. Cover which diced diced truffles which to cool. cool. mixture. Leave Leave to of the the macaroni macaroni mixture. layer of layer into portions, shape Dip into into liule little rectangles. rectangles. Dip shape into Divide into into portions, Divide Nantua sauce sauce and fry. fry. Serve with Nantua Serve with and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and egg and egg (see SAUCE). SAUCE). (see (made with meat lefl-overs). left-overs). with varioos various meal Meat croquettes croquettes (made Meat with meat blended blended with VIANDES -- Salpicon Salpicon of of the the meat DE VIANDES cRoQuETTEs DE CROQUETTES (see Tomato sauce sauce (see Demi-glace sauce sauce or ot Toma/o sauce, Demi-glace Allemande sauce, Allemande the meat meat lIsed. on the used. depending on SAUCE), depending SAUCE), and mushrooms and finished offwithdiced Thesalpiconcan be fini The salpicon can he shed offwith diced mushrooms pickled tongue ham. tongue or or ham. smoked or or pickled truffies, smoked Iruffies, MushMoNTRoucE -- Mush cRoQUETTEs MONTROUGE croquettes. CROQUETTES Montrurge croquettes. Montrouge yolks of mixed with with chopped chopped puree blended of eggs, eggs, mixed with yolks blended with room pure room ham. lean barn. lean garnish and and should should as gamish mainly used used as are rnainly These croquettes croquettes are Tbese garnish for the for a a fish fish dish, dish, the used as as gamish If they they are are used small. If be very very small. be small like very very small look Iike to look left out. out. Shape Shape to ham must must be be left chopped ham chopped eggs. eggs, of MouLEs -- Salpicon Salpicon of DE MOULES cRoQUETTEs DE Mussel croquettes. croquettes CROQUETI"ES MusseI thick Bchamel ot Bicharnel or blended with with thick and mushrooms, mushrooms, blended mussels and mussels (s* SAUCE) stock. on fish fish stock. based on SAUCE) based Allemande sauce sauce (sec Allemande
474 474
(see (see SAUCE). SAUCE).

macaroni, macaroni, spaghetti, spaghetti, etc. etc. Begin by by poaching poaching the the pasta pasta in in salted salted water. water. Drain, Drain, and and Begin eut into ioto dice. dice. Blend Biend with with thick tbick Bichamel Bchamel sauce sauce (seo (see SAUCE) SA UCE) cut and add add grated grated cheese. cheese. and preparation can be be finished finished off with with lean leao ham ham or This preparation scarlet tongue tongue cut eut into ioto julienne julienne (q.v.) (q.v.) strips. Serve Serve with with scarlet Toma/o sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Tomato - Croquettes Croquettes served served as as hot hot hors-d'euvre hors-d'uvre are Croquettes of one one or several several preparations preparations cut into into small dice dice composed of (or, in in certain certa in cases, cases, chopped). They They are are blended blended with with a a white whi te brown sauce sauce based based on on meat, meat, fish fish or or vegetable vegetable stock. or brown (See CROQUETTES.) CROQUETTES.) Beef Bee! croquettes croquettes I. cnoeusrrEs CROQUETIES DE DE BoELJF BOEUF - Minced Minced boiled beef, blended blended with with a a beaten beaten egg; egg; and and choppod chopped parsley. parsley. beef, according to taste. Shape according Serve with Tomato Toma/o sauce sauce (see (sec SAUCE). SAUCE), Becf Beer croquettes croquettes II. Il, cnoQUETTEs CROQUETTES DE DE BoEUF BOEUF - Salpicon of of boiled boiled beef, beef, mushrooms and and lean ham, ham, blended blended with with concentrated cenlrated Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see (sec SAUCE), SA UCE), and and shaped according to taste. las le. (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Serve with Piquant Serve Piquant sauce sauce (see cRoQuETTEs DE croquettes III. Beef Bee! croquettes m. CROQUETTES DE BoEUF BOEUf - Salpicon Salpicon of of and lean boiled boiled beef beef and Iean ham, ham, blended blended with with thick thick Bichamel Bchamel (se SAUCE). Shape Shape according to sauce (see to taste. taste. Serve with with Tomato Toma/o sauce (see SAUCE). Two-thirds fV. cRoQLJETTEs Beef croquettes croquettes IV. Beer CROQUETTES DE DE BoEUF BOEUF - Two-trurds meat stock. one-third rice cooked in meat salpicon of boiled beef, one-Ihird salpicon Shape according to taste. (se SAUCE). sauce (sec Tomato sauce Serve with with Tomalo Serve of DE BOEUF BoEUF Salpicon of V. CROQUETI"ES cnoQUETTES DE croquettes V. Bee! croquettes Beef - Salpicon (pressed beef) with Demi-glace sauce blended with corned beef (pressed beef) blended or Bichamel Bchamel sauce (see SAUCE). (se SAUCE). SAUCE) sauce (sec Serve with Tomalo Tomato sauce Many preparations can Bed croquettes made of left-overs. Many Beef different ingredients to the the boiled boiled beef different be made made by adding 10 be by adding vegetables, chopped vegelables, lettuce, celery celery or or olher other chopped like spinach, spinach, lettuce, like tomato grated cheese, cooked in in butter, butter, lomato chopped onion onion cooked cheese, chopped grated mirepoix of of pur6es of dried vegetables, vegetables, mirepoix of fresh fresh and and dried fondue, fondue, pures etc. in milk, elc. rn bouillon or in soaked in vegetables, bread bread soaked vegetabIes, D'AMouRnrrEs -CRoQUETTES D'AMOURETTES croquettes. CROQUETI"ES Bone-marrow croquettes. with mushrooms blended blended with and mushrooms of bone-marrow bone-marrow and Salpicon of Salpicon (see SAUCE). corks and and Shape 10 to look like corks SAUCE). Shape Allemande sauce sauce (sec Allemande (see SAUCE) separately. sauce (sec SAUCE) separately, Tomato sauce serve sewe Tomalo like Brain croquettes. DE CERVELLE croquettes. CROQUETIES cRoeuETTEs DE cERVELLE -- Prepare li ke Brain or of shecp's sheep's or a salpicon salpicon of using a Bone-marrow croquelles croquettes using Bone-marro>v to taste. taste. according to Shape according calf's calf's brain. brain. Shape also DE MORUE MoRLJE -- These These are are also cnoeuerrEs DE Cod croquettes. croquettes. CROQUETIES Cod They are made of of two-thirds cakes. They are made or fish fish cakes. called fisb fish balls balls or called pieces, into pieces, drained, and and cut cut into cooked. drained, should be be cooked. cod, which which should cod, (see POTATOES) potatoes (sec POTATOES) Duchess po/a/oes with onc-third one-third Duchess mixed with mixed (se SAUCE). Shape SAUCE). Shape sauce (sec thick Bchamel Bdchamel sauce with thick blended with blended into balls. balls. into (se SAUCE). sauce (sec SAUCE). Tomato sauce Serve with with Toma/o Serve Pur6e of of cnnssoNNrine cnoQUETTES CRESSONNiRE Cress croquettes. croquettes. CROQUETTES Cress - Pure (see POTATOES) potatoes (sec POTATOES) Duchess polaloes to which which Duchess watercress to watercress (see SAUCE) SAUCE) Velouti sauce sauce (sec Blend with with Velout added. Blend have been been added. have to tasle. taste. herbs. Shape Shape according according to mixed herbs. flavoured wilh with mixed flavoured A salpicon salpicon DE POlSSONS PolssoNs -- A cRoeLJETTES DE Fish croquettes. croquettes. CROQUETTES Fish prescribed, blended with blended with of the the fish fish prescribed, solely of composed solcly composed (see SAUCE). accordSAUCE). Shape Shape accordAllemande sauce sauce (see or Allemande Bicharnel or Bchamel fish with Ihe the fish in character character with with a a sauce sauce in and serve serve with ing to to taste taste and ing for the croquettes. used for the croquettes. used balls. in the shape of of balls. the shape are usually usually served served in These croquettes croquettes are These (see POTATOES) to the the be added added 10 potatoes (see should be POTATOES) should Duchess pola/oes Duchess

of croquettes croquettes made made of of pasta, pasta, Croquets - A A variety va ri et y of Croquets

HORS.D'(EUVRE HORS-D'UVRE
Servewith (seeSAUCE). with White White wine wine sauce sauce (sec SAUCE). Serve Noodle croquettes. croquettcs. CROQUETTES cRoeuETTEs DE DENOUILLES Nourr,rrs- - Prepare, Prepare, NoodJe cook and and serve serye as as Macaroni Macaroni croquettes (see croquettes valentinoise valentinoise (see cook above) using using ordinary ordinary or or small small noodles noodles instead instead of of macaroni. macaroni. above) Oyster croquettes croquettes i la la normande. normrnde. CROQUETTES cRoer.rETTEs D'HUTRES o'HulrnEs A Oyster LA NORMANDE NoRMANDE -- Salpicon poached oysters, Salpicon of of poached oysters, mushrooms mushrooms LA and trufHes truffies blended blendedwith with Allemande (see SAUCE). Allemande sauce sauce (see SAUCE). and Shape into into fiat flat cakes cakes and and serve (see serve with with Normande Normande sauce sauce (see Shape SAUCE). SAUCE). Servewith (seeSAUCE) withaaCream Cream sauce sauce (see SAUCE)to towhich parsley whichparsley Serve andchervil chervilhave havebeen beenadded. added. and Ricecroquettes. croquettes. CROQUETTES cRoeuETTEs DE DERIZ rtrz- - Rice Rice Ricecooked cookedin in meat,fish fishor or vegetable vegetablestock, plainor stock, plain gratedcheese meat, orwith withgrated cheese added. added. Serve with (se SAUCE). with Tomato Tomatosauce sauce (sec SAUCE). Serve Ricecroquettes croquettes i l'amricaine. I'am6ricaine. CROQUETTES Rice cRoeuETTEs DE DERIZ Rtz A t'.aufnrcArNs - - Rice Ricecooked cookedin infish L'AMRICAINE fishstock stockto towhich whichaasalpicon salpicon of Lobster Lobster dl'amricaine (seeLOBSTER) l'amiricaine (see LOBSTER)has hasbeen of beenadded. added. Serve with (seSAUCE). with American Americot sauce sauce (sec Serve SAUCE). Curried riCe rice croquettes. croquettes. CROQUETTES Curried cRoeuETTEs DE DERIZ ntz AL'INDIENNE r'rNDIEr{Ne- Rice cooked cooked in inaa meat, meat, fish fish or Rice or vegetable vegetablestock towhich stock to whichis is addedaasalpicon salpicon of of onions, onions, cooked cooked in added in butter butteruntil untilsoft, soft, and and blended with with aafew fenr tablespoons tablespo ons of (see SA blended UCE). ofCurry Currysauce sauce(see SAUCE). Rice croquettes pi6montaise. CROQUETTES croquettes i la la pimontaise. Rice cRoeuETTEs DE DERIZ Rtz ALA LA pduoNrarsn -- Risotto Risotto piimontaise (see d la Ia pimontaise (see RICE) PIMONTAISE RICE)served served (see SAUCE). with Toma{o Tomafosauce sauce (see SAUCE). with pr LANGOUSTE Spiny lobster lobstercroquettes. croquettes. CROQUETIES Spiny cRoerJETTFs DE rA,NcousrE - - As As for Lobster Lobster croquettes (see above) croquettes (sec above) using for using aa salpicon salpiconof of spiny spiny lobster instead instead of of lobster. lobster. lobster (various). CROQUETTES Vegetable croquettes Vegetable croquettes (various). cRoer.JETTFs DE os LGUMESrfculms Salpicon of of cooked cooked vegetable, Salpicon vegetable, blended blended with with Bchamel Bichamel sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). (see Serve with Serve with Tomato Tomato sauce (see SAUCE). sauce or or Cream Creun sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Vegetable croquettes croquettes are Vegetable are usually usually made made from from artichoke artichoke hearts, carrots, hearts, carrots, celeriac celeriac or or French French beans. beans. They They can can also also be be prepared using prepared using a a macdoine macidoine of of vegetables. vegetables. Croquettes Croquettes i la la viennoise viennoi* -- Salpicon Salpicon of of lamb lamb sweetreads, sweetreads, lean ham, ham, mushrooms lean mushrooms and and chopped chopped onions, onions, cooked cooked in in butter untiJ butter until soft, soft, and (see and blended blended with with thick thick Velout Velouti sauce sauce (see SAUCE) SAUCE) seasoned paprika. Shape seasoned with with paprika. Shape into into small small rectrectangles, angles, and and fry. fry. Arrange Arrange in garnish the in a a circle circle and and garnish the centre centre with a with a heap heap of of fried fried onions. onions. Serve Serve with (se SAUCE) with Tomato Tomato sauce sauce (sec SAUCE) seasoned seasoned with with paprika. paprika. Croustades Croustades -- Small, Small, filled filled croustades, croustades, made made of Duchess of Duchess potatoes (sec (see POTATOES), potatoes POTATOES), rice, rice, semolina semolina or paste or Lining Lining paste (see DOUGH) are (see are used used as as hors-d'uvre. hors-d'euvre. Croustades Croustades of potatoes. Make of duchess duchess potatoes. Make a a very very thick thick duchess duchess potato mixture. mixture. Roll out out on on a a fioured floured table table to to a a thickness thickness of of (lj inches). about cm. (H about 3! 31cm. Cut piees about Cut out out pieces (2 inches) about 5 5 cm. cm. (2 inches) across, across, using using a a pastry-cutter. Dip pastry-cutter. Dip in egg egg and and breadcrumbs twice. twice. With pastry-cutter mark With a a smaller smaller pastry-cutter mark out out the the lid lid of of the the croustade by by pressing on it, Fry on il. Fry the the croustades. croustades. Remove Remove the the Iids. 1 as lids. Hollow Hollow out out the the croustades and and fil fill as directed directed in in the the th the recipe chosen. Coyer Cover wi with the Iids. lids. Serve the the croustades on a napkin or paper doyley. a napkin Croustades of Prepare as described above, of rice or senwlina. semolina.Prepareas above, but using rice or semolina semolina cooked in a a meat, fish or vegetable vegetable stock, bound with egg egg yolks, and and spread on a a slab slab to to cool. cool. Croustades made pastry). Line croustad~ (tart pasty).Line made of of lining lining paste (tart croustade mou Ids with lining paste, following the directions given moulds given for for barquettes. Bake Bake the pastry blind. barquettes. blind. Garnish as as described described in the the recipe chosen. Croustades l'alsacienne Cronstades i I'alsacienne Make the the croustades croustades using using - Make Duchess potatoes potatoes (see (see POTATOES). Duchess POTATOES). Fill Fill with with braised braised croustade a slice sauerkraut. Put on each each croustade slicn of of harn ham and and a round a round of poached Strasbourg sausage. of sausage. I'anversoise l'anversoise - Make Make the Croustades i Croustades the croustades croustades using using duchess potatoes. Fill with hop shoots shoots with cream. Croustades i la la bretonne - Make Make the croustades using using Cronstades the croustades of Fresh Fresh white white beans beans d la duchess potatoes. potatoes. Fill with a a pur6e pure of duchess la bretonne (see BEAN). BEAN). bretonne la forestibre forestire - Make Make the croustades using Croustades I Cronstades the croustades using potatoes. Cut out out with with an an oval oval pastry-cutter. pastry-cutter. Fill Fil 1 duchess potatoes. Put on on each each uoustadc croustade a a morels saut6ed sauted with with parsley. Put with morels small rectangle of of blanched lean lean bacon bacon browned browned in in butter. butter. small 475

Veal croquettes croquettes (Scarnali) (Scarnati) Veal

Oyster croquettes croquettes Victoria. Victoria. CROQUETTES cRoeuETTEs D'HUTRES D'HUITRES Oyster vIcroRIA Salpicon of of lobster, lobster, mushrooms mushrooms and and truffies VICTORIA - Salpicon blended (ser', SAUCE). with Bchamel Bichamel sauce (sec SAUCE). Put in the middle middle blended with of each croquette a poached oyster coated a poached coated with with Allemqnde Allemande of (se, SAUCE) and sauce and finished finished with (see with Crayfish butter butter (see sauce (see BUTTER, Compound butters) butters\ or any other shellfish shellfish butter. BUTTER, Compound flat cakes. Shape into fiat (se SAUCE). SAUCE). Serve with Lobster sauce sauce (sec poMMEs DE Potato cRoer.JETTEs DE DE TERRE rERRE Potato croquettes. croquettes. CROQUETTES DE POMMES Potato Potato croquettes are usually served without sauce. Potato croquettes Dauphin6 Dauphini croquettes Daupbin POT ATOES, Dauphin - See POTATOES, potatoes. potatoes. poMMEs Potato Potato croquettes croquettes i la florentine - cRoeuETrES CROQUETTES DE POMMES DE ric, LA TToRENTTNE FLORENTINE - Two-thirds Duchess potatoes DE TERRE TERRE A (see (sec POTATOES) POTATOES) mixed with one-third one-third spinach cooked in butter. Add 50 g. (2 oz., t cup) grated Parmesan Pannesan cheese for ".rp) each 500 g. (18 oz., 2f 2i cups) potato and spinach mixture. mixture. Potato Potato croquettes croquettes i la nigoise. nioise. cRoeuETTEs CROQUETTES DE poMMEs POMMES DE rERpln TERRE A u, LA rugors NIOISE - Duchess potatoes potatoes (see POTATOES) POT ATOES) mixd mixed with with 2 dl. $ (1 pint, pint, scant seant cup) thick Tomato Tomato fondue d la la nigoise nioise (see (see TOMATO) TOMATO) for each 500 g. (18 oz., 2| 2i cups) cups) potato. potato. Potato Potato croquettes croquettes with witb Parmesan Parmesan cheese. cbeese. ca.oeurTTEs CROQUETTES DE DE poMMEs POMMES DE DE TERRE TERRE A r,c, LA pA,RITESANE PARMESANE - Duchess Duchess potatoes potatoes (ser-, (sec POTATOES) POTATOES) with with grated grated Parmesan Parmesan cheese. cheese. For For each 500 500 g. g. (18 (18 o2.,2f, oz., 2i cups) cups) potato potato add add 50 50 g. g. (2 oz.,l oz., cup) cup) cheese. cheese. Cheshire or Gruydre Gruyre cheese cheese can can also also be be added to to potato Cheshire or croquettes. croquettes. Poultry CROQUETTES DE DE voLATLLE VOLAILLE - Salpicon Salpicon of PouItry croquettes. croquettes. cRoeuETTEs poultry poultry meat, meat, mushrooms mushrooms and and truffies, trufHes, btended blended with with Allemande Allemande sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Serve Serve with with Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce, sauce, Pirigueux Prigueux sauce sauce or or Tomato Tomato sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). sauce (sw PrintaniBre Printanire croquettes croquettes - Spring Spring vegetables vegetables blended blended with with Bicharnel Bchamel sauce sauce or or Allemande Allemande sauce sauce (se (sec SAUCE). SAUCE).

HORS.D'(EUVRE HORS-D'UVRE
and cut Croustades i la grecque - Make Make ie rice croustades croustades and Cranstades Tomalo fonfue d la grecqrc grecque (see into oval shapes. Fill with Tomato onionringswhich TOMATO). Put on eachuoustade3 cach crouslade onion rings wruch have
been been dipped dipped in batter batter and fried. fried.

nutmeg. nutmeg. Sprinkle grated grated cheese cheese and and melted melted butter butter on on the the
crofltes crotes and brown. brown. Cro0tes Crootes I ai la Clamart Clamart (Vegetarian (Vegetarian recipe) redpe) - Garnish Garnish with with a a puree pure of of fresh fresh peas peas mixed mixed with with fresh [resh cream. cream. Devilled Devilled cro0tes. c roo tes. cno0rss CROTES A LA onnrr DIABLE - Garnish Garnish with with a a salpicon salpicon of of York York ham ham and mushrooms mushrooms blended blended with with a a strong Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce (se (see SAUCE), seasoned with with a a pinch pinch of cayenne. Sprinkle with with fried breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and brown. brown. cayenne. Sprinkle Cro0tes Cro(ltes Dubarry Dl.lbar:ry - Garnish with with florets florets of of cauliflower caulifiower cooked cooked in in butter. butter. Coat with with Mornay sance sauce (see (see SAUCE), SAUCE), sprinkle with grated cheese, and brown. brown. Cro0tes i Il la 1a livoniennelh'ontenne - Garnish with a pur6e purc of of soft roes of of smoked herring herring with the addition additon of Bdchamel Bchamel sauce (see SAUCE). Put a a little little salpicon of of fillets flllets of of smoked herrings and aod tart lart apples on each cro0te. crote. Sprinkle \4'ith with fried friee! breadcrumbs and brown. Cro{ites Crolltes . la lyonnaise lyollDaise - Garnish with with dicd diced boiled boiled beef saut6ed sauted in butter and mixed with an equal quantity of of diced dced onions tossed tossed in butter. butter. Sprinkle with breadcrumbs, l"\"p'~I1'(,"""'tnr,,,, pour butter over the cro0tes, crotes, and brown. Pour Pour a little little lemon lemon juice chopped parsley. sprinkle with chopped or vinegar on them and sprinkle parsley. Muslrroom Musbroom cro0tes. croOtes. cno0ms CROTES Atrx AUX cHAMpIGNoNS CHAMPIGNONS Garnish - Garnish small mushrooms d I'allemandc. with a ragofrt ragot of srnal1 mushroorns l'allemande. small, round, Mushroom cro0tes croOtes are are made made from from small, round, crusty in the rolls. Scoop out ro11s. Scoop out the the rolls, ro11s, butter butter them them and and brown brown in oven. The cro0tes crotes can also be made from French bread cut thick slices and prepared in the same way as the rolls. Ia crime sometimes called Tourte de champignons champignons d la crme is also sometimes mushroom crote. crofrte. mushroom Iwith coarsely chopped I la paysanne Cro0tes li Crotes paysan.ne 1 - Garnish with grated until soft. Spnnkle Sprinkle with in butter until vegetables cooked in ve~:etlbl,es with grated cheese and brown. brown. stock-pot vegetr - Garnish Garnish with "',",T'v_nn. Cro0tes la paysanne Crootes pa~rSJllme n grated cheese. Finish as in the mixd with grated tables chopped and rnixed tables previous recipe. provengale - Garoish with Tomato fondue Garnish with Crofftes la Dr()VenClElle (see FONDUE). Put4 blaclq stoned olives, each surrounded surrounded olives, each with fried on each each croOte. Sprinkle with fillet of of anchovy, 00 crotte. Sprinkle by a a fillet fried with chopped chopped Heat in in the the oyen. oven. Sprinkle Sprinkle with breadcrumbs. Heat breadcrumbs. parsley. la reine Garnish with with a a salpicon of poultry, Cro0tes la reine - Garnish sance blended with with thiek Veloutd sauce truffies and and mushrooms, blended truffies in (see SAUCE), sprinkled Brown in sprinklod with with fried fried breadcrumbs. Brown (see the oven. d gratinforcemeat with i la rouellDa.Se roucnnaise Cro0tes il CroCHes - Garnish with (see FORCEMEAn Rouen made, whenever whenever possible, of Rouen FORCEMEAT) made, (see DUCK). for a a minute in in the oven. DUCK). Heat for duckling livers (see hollow of of the Fill the hollow each crote. croflte. FiU Put a grilled mushroom on eacn (se very thick Bordelaise sauce sauce (sec thick Bordelaise with a a lite little very mushroom with sAUCE). SAUCE). FoIE DE DE RAIE RAIE Garliver. CROTES cro0rss DE DE FOIE witt skate skate liver. Cro0tes wid:! Crotes - Garliver cooked a courl-bouillon court-bouillon cooked in a nish with a a salpicon salpicon of skate Iiver rush (q.v.). Pour with salt salt and and pepper melted butter, butter, seasoned seasoned with Pour melted (q.v.). juice, over the salpicon. salpicon Put Put in the lemon juice, over the and a a squeeze squeEze of of lemon and a dish, dish, sprinkle sprinkle liver 00 on a Arrange the the crotes cro0tes with the the liver oven. Arrange oven. juice parsley, squeeze of lemon lemon juice squeeze a a few few drops drops of chopped parsley, with chopped with pour a on them. them. little brown butter on before serving serving pour a little over, and and before over, LAITANcgS -- Garnish Garnish roes. CROTES cto0rss AUX Atrx LAITANCES witr soft soft mes. Cro0tes wid:! CroOtes herrings. Sprinkle with fned fried breadbreadroes of fresh herrings. Sprinkle with with soft soft roes of fresh wth put in the the oven. oven. crumbs and put crumbs ham, smoked or with barn, smoked or la zinga..ra zingara - Garnish Garnish with Cro0tes la Croiltes with pickled tongue cut ioto strips and and blended blended with and truffies trufres eut into strips tongue and pickled a SAUCE). Put Put a sauce (se SAUCE). Demiglace sauce tomato-flavoured Demi-glace tomato-flavoured on each each ham and and a mushroom on slie of heated ham a grilled mushroom round slice of heated round garnished crote. cro0te. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with chopped parsley. garnished Apart from from the the above above recipes, recipes given for barquettes, cassolettes, etc., etc., can can be be applied to garnished cro0tes. cm~SOtel.res, (compound) (U.S. chopettes). cdrslsrrEs COMcol,lCutlets (compound) Cutlets

Croustades la marinilre marinire - Make Make the the croustades using using Croustads Lining paste pasle (see DOUGH). Fill Fil! with a ragofrt ragot of of Mussels Mussels d Lining la mariniire marinire (see MUSSEL). MUSSEL). Croustades li la Monbouge M,.".,....,..."'" - Make the the croustades using using Cronstads FiJI with a a pur6e of mushrooms mushrooms with cream. cream. lining paste. Fill Croustades la napolitaine - Make tbe the uoustades croustades using Croustades ,:.,na!J~elll d la napolitaine (se (sre SPAGpaste. Fill FiJI with Spaghetti lining paste. HETTI). HETTD. Croustades la nivemaise nivernaise - Make Make the the croustades tsing using Crqrstodes Duchess Duchess potatoes potalOes (see (see POTATOES). Fill Fil! with with very very small glazd carrots. each croustade a glazed carrots. Put Put on on each a bouquet of of very small glazed onions. Croustades I la turlousaine toulousaine - Make the croustades tsing using Crurstades cods' kidneys and forcea ragofrt of cocks' lining paste. Fill with a meat blended with SuprAme sauce (se (see SAUCE). Put Put on meat each croustade a a small slice of calf's sweetbread, sweetbread, a slice slce of eaeh croustade truffle and and a cock's comb. trufle the croustades Croustades vert-pr vert-pr - Make the crouslades using duchess Cronstades French potatoes. Fill with a a mixture mixture of equal parts diced French butter. beans, peas and asparagus tips blended with butter. Carrots croustades.Fillwith Croustades croustades. FiJI with Carrois Cronstades Vichy - Make la Vichy (see CARROTS). d la all the for croustades from al! the special recipes recipes given for Apart from given for according ta to the recipes be made according also he recipes given they can they can also barquettes and similar dishes. barEtettes garnished. cRoOrEs cARMEs Cro0tes, gamished. Croates, CROTES GARNIES - Cut slices of stale sandwicb ioto rounds 5 cm. (2 inches) inches) in diameter and sandwich loaf into biscuit-cutter. 2i cm. cm. (l inch) thick, using a biscuit-cutter. of biscuit-cutter of smaller diameter, mark the top of With a biscuit-cutter without cutting cutting right through. the crotes through. crottes firmly but without hollow out. and bollow until golden brown. Drain and Fry in in butter uotl to the seJected selected recipe. Garnish according ta butter, frying the the crotes cro0tes in of frying Alternatively, instead Ahernatively, instead of in butter, brown in the oven. spread them with butter and brown a pur6e of breast Garnish with a Cro0tes Il i l'ambassadrice Croates l'ambassadrice - Garnisb SAUCE). in Velout Velouti sauce (*e SA of chicken (or other poultry) in U CE). a smaU small bouquet of mirepoix of of a large slice of truffie and a Put a each crote. cro0te. vegetables on each slices of a Atx ANCHOlS ANcHoIs a cro0tes. CROTES cno0rns AUX Anhovy croiltes. Aochory - Cut sUces in Fry them them in in round round or or rectangular pieces. Fry sandwich loaf in cut ioto into thin strips. fillets and eut sizding butter. Desalt anchovy flllets the crotes. cro0tes. Put these strips on the seasoned frid in in butter butter and and seasoned Sprinkle with breadcrumbs fried Sprinkle ove,n for a a few moments. a very hot oven with cayenne. Put in a paper doyley doyley and and garnish or on on a a paper a napkio napkin or Arrange on on a with fresh parsley. A LA LA MOELU,brcrrs - Garnish cno0rss bonemarrow. CROTES Cro0tes with boue-marrow. Crolltes poached. Sprinkle with cut into dice and poached. bone-marrow eut with bone-marrow concentrated and and thickened shallot. Pour Pour concentrated a little little choppe{! chopped shallot. a in the the oven. oven. Before and brown brown in on the the crotes cro0tes and stock on veal stock veal put 2 each crote. cro0te. on each slices of of bone-marrow bone-marrow on 2 or or 3 3 slices serving put parsley. chopped parsley. with chopped Sprinkle with hardGarnish with with a a salpicon of hardBrillat-SavarinCro0tes Brillat-Savarin - Garnish Bichamel and truffies blended blendd with with Bchamel eggs, mushrooms and boiled eggs, (se SAUCE). of anchovy a criss-cross criss-cross pattem of Make a sauce (see SAUCE). Make sauce with fried breadcrumbs and Sprinkle with fillets on on each each crote. crorite. Sprinkle tillets brown. brown. and salpicon of of lobster and Garnish with with a a salpicon cardinal Croltes Cro0tes cardinal - Garnish finished Bdchamel sauce sauce (see SAUCE) fini with Bchamel trufres blended blended with truffles shed (see BUTTER, Compound butters). Lobster bUller butter (see with with Lobsrer put a ready, put and brown. brown. When ready, a with breadcrumbs and Sprinkle Sprinkle with crorite. lobster and and 2 2 slivers of tmffles truffies on on eacn each crote. of lobster slivers of slice slice of AU FROMAGE FRoMAcE ~ Garnish Garnish with with a a cno0res AU cro0tes. CROTES Ci1~ Cheese croiltes. paprika and grated and grated Season with with paprika cheese. Season salpicon of of Gruyre Gruydre cheese. salpicon

i i

ie

476 476

HORS-D'(EUVRE HORS-D'UVRE
- Make Make up the mixture mixture given in the chosen croquette croquette recipe. recipe. Spread a of this Spread a layer layer of this mixture on a a distr" dish, leave leave to to cool completely, (2 to g. (2 completely, and and divide into portions of 50 to 75 50 to 75 g. 3 oz.). Dip in egg and breadcrumbs and and shape into the form of cutlets cutlets (chops). (chops). Deep-fry Deep-fry in clarified c1arified butter butter or or saut butter, saute in butter, shape depending on recipe. Arrange Arrange in the sha pe of a a crown. Add appropriate appropria te garnish. Put a piece of of raw macaroni, macaroni, decorated decorated with a a tiny paper frill, on each cutlet. cutlet. Serve with an approappropriate priate sauce. sauce. These These cutlets, when when made made very very smaU, be usod used as as a small, can be garnish gamish for large dishes. All AlI the directions directions given for making making croquettes also apply apply to these cutlets, which differ from from croquettes only in their shape. They can also be made from pur6e pure of of poultry, game, fish, etc., dipped in egg and breadcrumbs, and sauteed sauted in butter. butter. Cutlets which have pur6es have a pures as as a ingredient can have a basic ingredient filling compound salpicon salpicon blended with with very filling of plain or compoufr thick sauce. sauce. Dartob Dartois - Similar to Allurnettes Allumettes (see above). above). Their difference lies in the fact ina fa ct that the garnish in a dartois dartois is enclosed enclosed in two pieces pie ces of puff pastry, pastry, which are not cut into rectangles rectangles until after after the cooking cooking is finished. fini shed . Roll the puff pastry pastry out as as for allumettes, cut into bands bands and and put put on on a moistened moistened baking baking tray. Spread middle of of the Spread the middle band band with the the chosen chosen flling, filling, which must be cold, col d, leaving leaving 1 1 on. cm. @inch) (! inch) clear c1ear on on each side. side. Put on each garnished garni shed band another another band ofpastry of pastry the same same length and width wid th as the bottom bottom one, but little thicker. thicker. but a little Moisten the border of the lower lower band with water and press press the upper upper band on it. Make Make a few light cuts cuts along the edges. Brush Brush with with egg egg and and score score the the surface lightly. Mark Mark into divisions divisions to make subsequent subsequent cutting easier. Bake in a a hot oven oyen for 20 to 25 minutes. Cut into rectanglc rectangles about about 2l 2! cm. cm. (l (1 inch) long, and arrange arrange on a napkin. All All fillings given given for alfunettes allumettes can be be used used for dartois. They can also also be be garnished with salpicons (q.v.) of meat, meat, with salpicons poultry, poultry, fish, etc., blended with white white or brown stock. Anchovy dartois (Sausse[s). (Sausselis). DARTors DARTOIS Arx AUX ANcHors ANCHOIS - Fill with Anchovy Anchovyforcemeat forcemeat (see (see FORCEMEAT). FORCEMEAT). Decorate Decorate with anchovy fillets, cover alayer coyer with a layer of of puffpastry puff pastry and bake in oyen. the oven. Dartois Dartois i la la florentine Oorentine - Fill with spinach spinach cooked in butter, blended with Bichamel Bchamel sauce sauce (see SAUCE) to which grated cheese cheese has has been added. added. Dartois Dartois Grimod Grimod de la Repilre Reynire - Fill Fil! with fine Pike Pike forcemeat (s@ (see FORCEMEAT) with Crayfish butter butter (see (see BUTBUTTER, Compound Compound butters). Decorate with crayfish tails and sliced trufres. truffies. Dartois Laguipibre Laguipire - Fill FiJI with a salpicon (q.v.) of calves' calves' sweetbreads sweetbreads and and trufles truffies to to which is added a brunoise brunoise (q.v.) of vegetables, vegetables, blended with thick Velouti Velout sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Dartois Ilcullus Lucullus - Fill with a salpicon of of foie gras gras and and trufles truffies blended blended with with concentrated Demi-glace sauce sauce (see sAUCE). SAUCE). Dartois Dartois I la reine reine - Fill with a salpicon salpicon of of poultry, truffies truffies with Velouti and mushrooms mushrooms blendod blended with Velout sauce sauce (w (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Sardinedrrtois. DARTors AUXsARDTNES- Made like Anchovy Sardinedartois.DARTOISAUXSARDINES-Madelike dnrtois, dartois, using using well-trimmed well-trimmed fillets fillets of of sardines sardines in oil instead. Tunry Tunny (tum (tuna fish) dartois dartois. DARrors DARTOIS AU AU rHoN THON - Made like Anchovy Anchovy dartois, using using finely finely cut-up cut-up slices slices of of tunny tunny in oil. mignons. oEuFs OEUFS MIGNoNSMIGNONS - Name given to very small Eggs mignons. egg-shaped egg-shaped cases made made of of Duchess Duchess potato potato (see POTATOES). POT ATOES). They are dipped dipped in egg and breadcrumbs, deep-fried, holhollowed lowed out out and filld filled in various various ways. ways. Make Make a duchess potato potato mixture mixture and leave until quite cold. cold.
pos6Es POSES

portions of 1 Divide into portions Bour and I tablespoon. Roll these in flour shape to look like eggs. eggs. Roll them in egg and breadcrumbs twice. Fry in hot, deep fat, drain drain and dry them. a small round opening in the top and through the Make a opening hollow out the'egg' the 'egg' completely, without breaking breaking Arrange them on a mixture. Arrange the crust. Fill with the selected mixture. a potatoes and straw potatoes napkin-covered dish in a nest of napkin-covered dish or or in a nest of straw garnish with fried parsley. parsley. Eggs mignons mignons d'Aigrefeuille. MIGNONS D'AIcRED' AIG REEggs oeuFs MIGNoNS d'Aigrefcrille. OEUFS FEUILLE a puree pure of of poultry poultry finished with Crayfish FEUTLLE - Fill with a BUTTER, Compound butter (see BUTTER, Compound butters). Eggs mignons I'andalouse. l'andalouse. oEuFs OEUFS MIGNONS t'lNpltL'ANDALMIGNoNs A Bggs migons OUSE pure of of foie foie gras to which grated orange orange ousu a pur6e - Fill with a peel has been been added. added. MIGNoNS BEAUHARBEAUHAREggs mignons mignons Beauharnais. Beauharnais. OEUFS oEUFs MIGNONS Eggs NAIS - Fill with a pure of poultry finished with Tarragon NArs a pur6e butters). butter t er s). but t er (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound C o mpound but mignons la cvenole. OEUFS MIGNONS t-A LA CVENMIGNoNs A cEveNEggs mignons c6venole. onurs OLE - Fill FiU with Chestnut pure (see (see CHESTNUTS), mixed otu Chestnut purie with a puree pure of of onions. MIGNoNs A Eggs mignons mignons LA CLAMARToEItFs MIGNONS cLAMART Eggs i la Clamart. Clamart. OEUFS with cream. cream. Fill with a puree pure offresh of fresh peas with Fill Curried OEUFS MIGNoNS MIGNONS A L'tNptewxe L'INDIENNE Clrrrid eggs egp mignons. oEtJFs - Fill (se with a salpicon of poultry blended with with Curry sauce (see a salpicon SAUCE). sAUCE). mignons A la nivernaise. OEUFS MIGNONS A I"l LA NwrnNIVERla nivernaise. oEUFs MIcNoNs Eggs mignons NAIsE NAISE - Fill with a fondue (q.v.) of afondue of diced carrots and onions blended with veal stock. mignons la normande. normande. OEUFS Ll1, LA NonNORMIGNoNS A Eggs mignons ouurs MIGNONS MANDE - Fill with a a ragot Normande sauce sauce MANDE ragofit of oysters with Normande (see SAUCE). mignons la royale. oEUFs OEUFS MIGNoNs MIGNONS A A re LA ROYALE novll.r"e Eggs mignom with a French beans beans and Fill with and asparagus a salpicon of French asparagus tips, blended with butter. In addition to these fillings, fillings, all ail those given given for barquettes, barquettes, patties, croustades, etc., can be used for for eggs mignons. (croquettes) - The French French call very small Fondants (croquettes) small croquettes fondants. They are made of vegetable quettes vegetable puree pure or of a cream preparation preparation with cheese. Vegetable Vegetable puriefondants. pure fondants. Prepare Prepare the pur6e pure of of the selected The sauce an appropriate sauce to sauce vegetables and and add add an to it. The should be very thick. The proportion proportion of sauce to vegetable vegetable puree pure should be one to three. three. Divide small portions Divide the the puree pure into into smaIJ portions of of about about 50 50 g. (2 oz.). Roll in flour Bour and coat with egg and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs as fior like eggs or pears. for croquettes. Shape to look like Fry just just before serving. Drain, and arrange on a napkin. napkin. Garnish with fried parsley. Garnish These These croquettes can can be be made from from any any one one vegetable vegetable puree pure or a a combination of pur6es. pures. The basic pur6e pure must, however, always of the whole preparation. preparation. always weigh two-thirds of Cream fondants fondants with with cheese. cheese. Prepare a a very very thick thick unsweetened French French pastry pastry cream (see CREAMS). Add grated cheese. cheese. Spread on a Spread a slab to a thickness of about 1 0 inch). t cm. (l Leave to cool. Cut Cut into shapes. shapes. Dip in egg and breadcrumbs Leave and finish as for vegetable vegetable croquettes. croquettes. and Argenteuil fondanb. fondants. FoNDANTS FONDANTS ARGENTEUTL ARGENTEUIL - Asparagus Argentadl puree pure with Bicharnel Bchamel sutce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Cheese fondants. fondants. FoNDANTS FONDANTS DE DE FRoMAGES FROMAGES - A A creamv creamy Cheese mixture made made of of Brie, Camembert, Camembert, Cantal, Cheshirg Cheslre, cheese mixture Gruyre or Dutch cheese. cheese. Gruyire Fondants Crecy Crcy - Pur6e Pure of carrots with Bchamel sauce sauce Fondants with Bichamel (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Fondants with foie gras Taillevent Taillevent. FoNDANTs FONDANTS DE FolE FOIE GRAs GRAS Fondants TAILLEvENT TAILLEVENT - Puree Pure of off oie gras gras and puree pure of of the white white meat foie of poultry poultry mixed wfth with Allemande Allemande sauce sauce (see SAUCE). F'ondants Fondants with with foie foie gras gras and and trufles. truffles. FoNDANTS FONDANTS DE DE ForE FOIE

477

HORS-D'(EUVRE HORS-D'UVRE
cRAs AUX Aux rRuFFEs of foie and puree GRAS TRUFFES Pure of foie gras and pure of truffies - Pur6e with a very very concentrated Madeira Madeira sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). DE vIANDES Meat Meat fondants. fondants. FoNDANTS FONDANTS DE VIANDES - Prepare in in the same way as as Fondants d Ia la reine (see below) using different kinds of Blend these with a a sauce sauce of meat meat pur6es. pures. Blend pures with kinds these purees appropria te to the meat. meal. appropriate Fondants i lr la Nantra Nantua Pure of sole with Bichamel Bchamel sauce Fondants - Puree BUTTER, Compound Compound (see SAUCE) and Crayfish butter (see BUTTER, butters). roNo,c,Nrrs Fondants with poultry liver Hver or i la la rouennaise. FONDANTS Fondants with Ll ROUENNAISE nouer.rNArs Pur6e of poultry DE ForEs FOIES DE DE VoLATLLE VOLAILLE A LA DE - Pure UCE). liver with Rouennaise sauce (see SA SAUCE). Ia reine reine to which which diced diced Fondants - Pure poultry, to Fondrnts I la Pur6e of poultry, have been added, blended mushrooms and truffies have been added, blended with mushrooms and truffies (se SAUCE). Allemande saice (see Allemande sauce Fondants Ives' sweetbreads Fondants Vladimir Pur6e of ca calves' sweetbreads mixed - Pure (see blended with sauce (see with pur6e pure of truffies, truffies, blended with Allemande sauce SAUCE). sAUCE). la Yorkaise Puree of ham ham with with Bichamel Fondants Bchamel Fondants i la - Pure sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Fritots kind of fritter, the commonest ingredients of - A kind (variety meats), meats), poultry, left-overs offish of fish and which are offal (variety shellfish. shellfish. FRrrors DE DE BoEr.JF Beef BOEUF beef into fritots. FRITOTS Cut boiled boiled beef Beef fritots. - Cut (l| inches). Finish pieces of Finish as for Bone-marrow square pieces of 4 cm. (11 as for fritots (see below). fritots Bone-marrow fritots. FRITOTS D'AMOURETTES - Cook fritots. FRrrors D'AMouRETrns Cook the (q.v.). Divide Divide into bone-marrow in in a a white white court-bouillon (g.v.). bone-marrow pieces, dip them pieces 5 cm. (2 inches) long. long. Marinate the pieces, garnish with Arrange on a napkin napkin and gamish in batter and deep-fry. Arrange fried parsley. Serve Serve with Tomato sauce (see SAUCE). FRITors DE CERVELLE Fritots - FRITOTS sheeps' brains brainscERvELLE Fdtots of of caJves' calves' and sheeps' D'AGNEAU, VEAU - Cut the brains brains into thick slices and cook ou vneuD'AcNEAU, DE in a a court-bouillon. Marinate and and finish as as for Bone-marrow frUots. fritots. FRITors DE oe CRTES Fritots of cocks' combs. FRlTOTS cx.Erns DE COQ coe - Cook the in a a white white court-bouillon. court-bouillon Marinate and the cocks' combs in Bone-marrow fritots. frUots. finish as as for Bone-marrow polssoNs DE rrurors DE DE POISSONS DE DESSERTE Fritots of cooked fish. fish. FRITOTS pieces. Marinate them, dip in Divide the pieces of fish fish into into pieces. fritots. Bone-marrow fritots. batter and finish as as for Bone-marrow pIEDs DE DE PIEDS Fritots sheep's foot. foot. FRITOTS rnlrors DE of calf's calfs or or sheep's Fritots of MOUTON, MouroN, DE VEAU Bone the calf's (or shecp's) sheep's) foot. foot. Cook - Bone (see COURT-BOUILLON) and in 1 (see in Court-bouillon I and marifritots. nate. Finish as for Bone-marrow asfor Bone-marrow fritots. Fritots FRITOTS DE head. rnrrors or TTE DE VEAU vEAU Fritots of of calf's head. rErs DE - Cook the calf's head in tn Court-bouillon I (see COURT-BOUILLON). Court-bouillon 1 Marinate and finish as Bone-marrow fritots. fritots. as for Bone-marrow Frogs' legs fritots. FRITors DE DE GRENOUILLES Trim the Frogs' legs fritots. FRITOTS GRENoUILLES - Trim (q.v.) and put them frogs' and frogs' legs, legs, put thern in in an an uncooked marinade (q.v.) leave for for for 30 minutes. Dip in in frying batter and finish fnish as as for Bone-marrow fritots. Bone-marrow fritots. _ Fritots TNTTOTS DE DE VIANDES DE DE DESSERTE FTitOtS of Of cold COId Meat. MEAI. FRITOTS Boiled or braised braised left-overs left'overs of lamb, mutton or veal veal can can be used. Marinate Marinat and finish as for for Beeffritots. Beef fritots. Fritots of caJf's FRITors DE DE FRAISE FRAI$ DE DE VEAU vEAU calf's mesentery. FRITOTS Cook like Bonemarinate the the mesentery mesentery and and finish finish like and marinate Cook and marrow fritots. marrow fritots. Mussel fritots. FRITOTS FRITors DE DE MOULES MouLEs Prepare in the same - Prepare fritots (see below). way as as Oyster Oyster fritors Oyster FRITors D'HUTRES o'ttulTnns Oyster fritots. fritots. FRITOTS Poach the the oysters, - Poach drain, dry, marinate, and as for for and dip in frying batter. Finish as Bone-marrow fritots. Bone-marrow fritots. Fritots FRITors DE DE VOLAILLE VoLAILLE DE DE DESSERTE Fritob of cold coH poultry. FRITOTS poached or braised poultry are best. Left-overs of poached braised poultry besl. Remove pieces. Marinate, aU bones. Cut into very small regular pieces. all the bones. and and dip dip into into frying frying batter. Finish as batter. Finish as for for Bone-marrow Bone-marrow fritots. fritots. 478 478

FRITors DE fritots. FRITOTS DE RIS RIS D'AGNEAU Sweetbread fritots. Braise Sweetbread D'AGNEAU - Braise lambs' sweetbreads and and marina marinate. Finish as as for for Bonelambs' sweetbreads te. Finish marrow fritots. marrow fritots.

Vegetable fritots. FRITors Vegetable FRITOTS oE DE r,Ecurrms LGUMES - Cut into quarters or into long long pieces, vegetables such such as as cardoons or salsify or (which should be cooked in a a white court-bouillon), court-bouillon), or arti(which (which should chokes and and asparagus asparagus (which should only only be chokes be blanched). finished in the and dip in frying ba.tter. are finished Marinate, and balter. They are Bone-marrow fritots. fritots. same way as Bone-marrow Fritters. BEIcNETS Fritters served served as as hors-d'uvre hors-d'euvre or Fritters. BEIGNETS - Fritters small entres entries can can be small be made from a a variety of ingredients and cooked vegetables meat, poultry, fish and - dipped in batter and fried. and Different kinds of batter can be used. Fritters with frying batter. Whatever ingredients you use, and then cut into slices, slices, square square they should be cooked first and pieces or any other shape desired. ingredient to be left to soak Some recipes require the basic ingredient Sorne juice or vinegar, chopped lemon juice or vinegar, minutes in in oil, oil, lemon for for 30 30 minutes parsley, salt and pepper. pepper. pieces, one by one, into a a light When ready to fry, dip the pieces, batter, and deep-fry them in very hot fat until they are a good fine dry salt and Dry them on a cloth, season season with with fine colour. Dry on a arrange arrange them in a pile on a dish. pur6es or mince, pures For fritters fritters incorporating forcemeat, forcemeat, mince, For (q.v.), prepare the ingredients as directed in various salpicons (q. v.), prepare quite cold. into small Divide into recipe and and leave leave until cold. Divide the until quite the recipe portions, shape into round cakes, flat round into balls, corks, rissoles, fiat flour. Dip in batter and finish as described above. etc. Roll in fIour.

(,Scarzali) Fritters (Scarnali) Fritters

(souffid fritters). Prepare Chou Fritters paste (souffl fritters). Prepare with chou paste Fritters wUh are indi(see DOUGH). Add Add whatever ingredients are paste 1 paste I (see cated in the the recipe chosen. pieces as small as as a as smaU paste with a Divide the spoon into into pieces a spoon the paste on the the inhazelnut a walnut, walnut, depending on as a hazelnut or or as as large large as not boiling, oil. gredients. gredients. Drop into hot, hot, but but not Drop one one by by one one into well shaped, dry Cook until the the fritters are well a high high fIame flame until Cook on a paper or golden brown. linen towellmg, towelhng, and Drain on on paper or linen brown. Drain and golden and serve. sprinkie sprinkle with fine fine dry salt and Roll anchovy Anchovy fritters I. BEIGNETS ssrcNsrs D'ANCHOIS D'ANcHoIs - Roll fritters I. fillets into rings and put them on thin round slices of bread, (1| inches) in diameter. about 4 cm. cm. (lt dip in two by by two, two, dip Sandwich rounds together, together, two Sandwich these these rounds serving. just before serving. batter, and fry fryjust layer of fish The fish be coated with a a layer The rounds rounds of bread can can be coated with

HORS-D'(EUVRE HORS-D'UVRE
forcemeat (see (see FORCEMEATS) FORCEMEATS) or or spread spread with Anchovy Anchovy forcemeat butter butter (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). Alternatively, spread the rounds of bread with a a salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) of of hard-boiled eggs and and fillets fiUets of anchovies blended blended with Bichamel Bchamel sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). Finish in the usual way. In In all ail the recipes recipes bread can be replaced by small savoury
(see SAUCE). sauce SAUCE). Dip Dip the mussels sauce (see mussels in batter and finish in the

usual manner. manner. pArEs Pasta frittens. fritters. BETcNETs BEIGNETS pe DE PTES Macaroni d - Prepare Macaroni I'italienne cut into into dice, shell-shaped shell-shaped l'italienne (see (see MACARONI) MACARONI) cut pasta, or vermicelli. cool. Divide Divide nto into pasta, noodles or vermicelli. Leave Leave to to cool.

Amhovy fritters fritters II. n. ssrcr.rtrs BEIGNETS D'^q.NcHors D'ANCHOIS - Soak Soak unleavened in cold cold water and and cut into into small leavenOO bread (matzos) in circles. Put a little !ittle salpicon made of anchovies and and hardboiled eggs blended blended with Bbchamel Bchamel sauce (see (see SAUCE) on each each circle. Seal Seal the the fritters fritters like like turnovers, turnovers, dip dip in in frying batter batter and finish finish as indicated indicated above. above. Artichoke fritters. fritters. BETcNETs BEIGNETS D'ARTIcHAUTs D'ARTICHAUTS - Trim very tender artichokes artichokes and divide into quarters. Lay them on a dish and dress with with a trickle of oil and a squeeze of lemon juice. juice. Season Season with with salt and pepper. Leave Leave to marinate marinate for 30 minutes. minutes. Dip Dip the the artichokes artichokes in batter and fry them. them. If If they are a little Httle hard, hard, blanch blanch them lightly lightly before putting them into the marinade. marinade. Beef Beef fritters fritters I la la lyonnaise. lyonnaise. seIcNsrs BEIGNETS DE DE sosuF BOEUF A rA, LA LvoNNAISE LYONNAISE - Make Beef Beef hash d Ia la lyonnaise lyonnaise (see (see HASH), HASH), using using beefleft-overs. beef left-overs. Divide Divide the the mince mince into pieces pieces the size of of a walnut. Dip in batter batter and and fry. Bemob Bernois fritters. BEIGNETs BEIGNETS BERNoIs BERNOIS - Cut Gruydre Gruyre cheese cheese into rounds 2f cm. (1 inch) inch) in in diameter. diameter. Make Make a a thick cm. (l Bichamel Bchamel sauce sauce (see SAUCE) SAUCE) and add minced minced ham. ham. Coat Coat the the rounds rounds of of cheese cheese with with this tbis sauce and sandwich together together in pairs. Finish the the fritter fritter in in the the usual usual manner. pairs. Finish FiS Fish fritters. fritters. BETcNETS BEIGNETS DE DE porssoNs POISSONS - Use left-over left-over braised braised or or poached poached fish. fish. Cut into into slices or o-r pieces and marinate marinate for 30 30 minutes minutes in in oil, lemon lemon juice, juice, chopped parsley, parsley, salt and pepper. pepper. Dip Dip the the pieces pieces one one by by one one in in batter bat ter and and finish finish in in the the usual usual manner. manner. Fritters Fritters i la la florentine. florentine. BEIGNETS BEIGNETS A rA LA rronsNrlNs FLORENTINE - PrePrepare pare 225 g. g. (8 (8 oz.,l oz., l cup) cup) spinach spinach pur6e, pure, making making it it as as dry as possible. possible. Add Add 2 2 dl. dl. $ (~ pint, pint, scant scant cup) thrck thick Bichamel Bchamel sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) and2 and 2 to to 3 3 tablespoons tablespoons grated cheese. cheese. Leave Leave to to cool, cool, divide divide into into balls balls the the size size of of a a pigeons'eggs, pigeons' eggs, roll roll in in flour, fiour, dip dip in in batter batter and and finish finish in in the the usual usual manner. manner. Herring fritters fritters I. 1. sntcNErs BEIGNETS DE DE HARENGS HARENGS - Use Use marinated marinated herrings. herrings. Drain, and and dry on on a a cloth. c1oth. Coat Coat with with a a thin thin layer layer of Fishforcemeat Fishforcemeat (s@ (see FORCEMEATS) and and roll roll them them up. up. Dip Dip in in batter batter and and finish finish in in the the usual usual way. way. Herrinp Herrmgs fritters fritters II. fi. srrcNErs BEIGNETS DE DE HARENcS HARENGS - Make Make a a salpicon con of of mannated marina tOO herrings herrings and and Fishforcemeat Fish forcemeat (see (see FORCEMEATS) MEATS) and and spread spread it it on on pancakes pancakes (crApes) (crpes) made made without without salt. Roll Roll up up the the pancakes, pancakes, cut eut them them in in uniform unifonn pieces, pieces, dip dip in in salt. batter batter and and finish finish in in the the usual usual way. way. Luculhrs Lucullus fritters. fritters. BEIGNETS BEIGNETS LUcULLUS LUCULLUS - Cut Cut truffies truffies into into thick thick slices, slices, coat coat with with a a purbe pure of of foie foie gras gras and and sandwich sandwich together in in pairs. pairs. Dip Dip in in batter batter and and finish finish in in the the usual usual manmantogether ner. ner. In France France these these fritters fritters are are also also known known as as Fritters Frit/ers d la la In pirigourdine.
fritters. BEIcNETS BEIGNETS DE DE vIANDES VIANDES - Use Use braised braised or or Meat fritters. poached poached left-overs left-overs of of meat. meat. Cut Cut into into squares, squares, slices slces or any any other shape. shape. other Marinate Marinate for for 30 30 minutes minutes in in oil, oil, lemon lem on juice, chopped chopped parsley, parsley, salt salt and and pepper. Dip Dip the the pieces pieces one one by one one in in batter. batter. Finish in in the the usual manner. manner. Finish Mussel fritters fritters i la la duxelles. duxeUes. BEIGNETS BEIGNETS os DE Mourns MOULES A rA LA Mussel DUXELLES - Cook Cook large mussels mussels in in white white wine, wine, take take them them out out DtxELLEsoftheir their shells, shells, dry dry well, cover coyer with with I 1 teaspoon teaspoon thick thick Duxelles Duxelles of

pancakes. pancakes.

portions of pigeons'eggs. portions the size of pigeons' Dip in batter and finish in the usual manner. Rice fritters. BErcNErs RJz Cook the rice and mix with BEIGNETS DE RIZ - Cook Parmesan into portions the sze size of pigeons' Parmesan cheese. Divide into eggs. Dip Dip in batter and finish in the usual manner. Polenta and semolina same way semolina fritten fritters are prepared prepared in the same as rice fritters. Soft Soft roe fritters. BEIGNETS BEIGNETS DE DE LArrANces LAITANCES - Poach the soft roes (see COURT-BOUILLOI$. roes in in Court-bouillon Court-bouillon XV XV (see COURT-BOUILLON). Drain and a marinade and put them them in a marinade of oil, oil, lemon juice or vinegar, and chopped choppOO parsley. Dry, dip in batter and fry in the usual way. Soufl6 SOUFFLS paste Souffl fritters. fritters. BEIGNETS sourrrfs - Prepare Chou paste (see with a (see DOUGH) without sugar. Divide Divide with a spoon spoon into pieces the size of of a hazelnut. Drop one by one into hot, but not boiling, oil. Cook over over a high flame until the fritters are well colour. weil shaped, dry, and golden in colour. Drain Drain on paper or linen towelling and serve. Soum6 sotrrrrfs lux Souffl fritters fntters with with anchovy anchovy I. I. ssrcNers BEIGNETS SOUFFLS ANcHoIs 250 g. (9 (9 oz., oz., 1 cup) Chou paste (see Prepare 250 DOUGH) and add 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) salpicon of desalted desaltOO anchovies. an(~hO'Vles. Proceed Proceed as for Soufii Soufflfritters. frit ter s. Soufr6 sourrlfs ,c,ux Souffl fritters fntters with with anchory anchovy II. n. sptcNETS BEIGNETS SOUFFLS AUX ANcHoIs ANCHOISMake the fritters as directed for Souffid frilters. - Make As soon as they are cooked and drained, stuff them with Anchovy Anchovy butter butter (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Contp6und Compound butters). butters). Souffl fritters li la la hongroise" hongroise. BEIGNETS sourrrfs SOUFFLS A LA Sonfr6 HoNcRotsE HONGROISE - Make 250 250 g. (9 oz.,l oz., 1 cup) batter batter as for Souffid fritters. Add 3 tablespoons (scant * t cup) chopped onions fritters. cooked cookOO in butter and season season with f 1- teaspoon of of paprika. paprika. Souffl fritters la parmeane parmesane I, or cheese soufl6 souffl fritters. mtters. Souffi6 BEIGNETS souprrns SOUFFLS A r,c, LA pARrunsANE. PARMESANE, BEIGNETS BEIGNETS AU FRoMAGE FROMAGE BEIcNETS 250 g. (9 oz.,l oz., 1 cup) Chou Chou paste paste (see DOUGH), add Prepare 250 oz., I t cup) grated gratOO Parmesan cheese and season season with a 50 g. (2 oz., little grated nutmeg. little Souffl fritters fritters la parmesane II. n. ssrcNsrs BEIGNETS sourrufs SOUFFLS A m LA Souff6 PARMESANE - Make Make the the fritters fritters as as indicatod indicated for for Souffii Souffl IARMESANE fritters. As As soon as they are cooked and drained, drained, stuff stuff them fritters. Cream sauce sauce (see SAUCE) to which Parmesan cheese cheese with Crearn has been been added. added. has Souffl fritters fritters la la toscane. toscane. BETcNETs BEIGNETS soui'rrfs SOuFFLS A r,c, LA Soum6 TOSCANE - Proceed ProceOO as as indicated indicatOO for for Soufii Souffl fritters d la roscANE parmesane, adding chopped lean lean ham and and trufres to to the

chou paste.

Sweetbread fritters. fritters. BEIGNETS BEIGNETS DE DE RIs RIS D'AGNEAU, D'AGNEAU, DE DE vEAU VEAUSweetbread poach the the sweetbreads. sweetbreads. Cut into into square pieces. pieces. Braise or poach Marinate for for 30 30 minutes minutes in in oil, oil, lemon juice, juice, chopped choppOO Marinate parsley, parsley, salt and and pepper. pepper. the pieces pieces in in batter, batter, fry, fry, and and finish finish in in the the usual usual Dip the manner. manner. Truffle fritters. fritters. BEIcNETS BEIGNETS DE DE TRUFFEs TRUFFES - Cover Coyer large slices slices Trufle of truffie truffle with with poultry puree and and sandwich together together in pairs. of in batter batter and and finish in in the the usual usual way. way. Dip in V",O'pi'~hllp fritters. fritters. BETcNETS BEIGNETS op DE r,6cr-nvrrs LGUMES - Vegetables Vegetables for for Vegetable must be be cooked cooked or parboiled, parboiled, according according to to their fritters must fritters nature. Cut Cut them them into into pieces, slices slices or or strips. nature. Marinate for 30 minutes in oil, lemon lemon juice juice or vinegar, Marinate parsley, salt and pepper. pepper. chopped parsley, one by by one one in in batter batter and and fry fry in in the the usual usual manner. manner. Dip one best vegetables vegetables for for fritters fritters are are artichokes, artichokes, white white The best asparagus tips, tips, Brussels Brussels sprouts, sprouts, cauliflower, cauliflower, salsify, salsify, totoasparagus matoes. matoes.

479 479

HORS.D'(EUVRE HORS-D'UVRE
Vegetable BEIGNETS Vegefable marrow (U.S. (US. squash) squash) ffower Oowec fritters. BEJGNETS one into a - Dip the flowers one by one light batter balter and then Ihen fry. K>O~t~?'iAn fnrters BEIGNETS vfc6rnnruus VGTARIENS Vegetarian fritters la printanibre. sslcwers (9 oz.) A oz.) vegetable macddoine l,l LA pruNt,lNdns. PRINTANiRE. Make 250 g. g. (9 vegetable macdoine (q.v.) and blend with 2 dl. (t (+ pint, scant cup) thick Bichamel pin t, seant Bechamel (see SAUCE). sauce SAUCE). Leave sauce (see Leave to to cool. cooJ. Finish Finish in in the the usual manner. Vegetarian fritten A fnrters I la la romaine. BEIcNETs BEIGNETS vfc6unrnNs VGTARIENS LA LA RoMAINE ROMAINE t in some spinach, chop and simmer it - Blanch sorne (9 oz., butter. Mix 250 g. (9 spinach with 2 dl. oz.,lf lt cups) spinach (1 pint, dl. (* scant cup) thick Bichamel sauce (see SAUCE) and scant Bchamel saute and 3 tablegrated cheese. Le,ave spoons (scant I cup) c,rp) graled Leave to ta cool. Finish in the usual manner. generally made K romeskies. CROMESQU!S - Kromeskies are generally Kroneskies. cRoMEseusof the same ingredients as as Croquelles Croquettes (see (sec above), and can above), and also be and all kinds of also be made made of mince, pur6e, pure, forcemeat and ail kinds left-overs of meat, t, fish or vegetables. vegetables. of mea la la frangal'se. franaise. Prepare ingredients as as croquettes Prepare the the ingredients Let this get quite cold. Divide according to the recipe recipe chosen. chosen. Lei to 75 g. (l| into portions of about 60 ta ot to ta 2 oz.). Roll in flour and rccumglCs. and shape into corks or rectangles. Dip in batter and and drop drop them one one by a pan by one into a pan of one into Fry until golden brown, drain, dry in a c1oth, boiling fat. Fry cloth, and salt. Garnish Garnish with fried parsley sprinkle with salt. parsley and serve with with an appropriate sauce. A la russe. russe. Prepare according according to the recipe recipe chosen to the chosen and and divide into pieces pieces as directed above. thin piece of salt pork and Wrap each portion in a a very thin shape like a cork. Dip in batter batler and finish as indicated above. preceding recipe, directed in the preceding polonaise. Proceed as directed A la polonaise. (crpes) inslead instead of using large, thin, unsweetened unsweetend pancakes (crpes) caul. cauJ. I'ancienne. Wrap each Duchess a thin layer of of Duchess A each portion in a potatoes and then an unsweetened unsweetened polaloes (see (see POTATOES), and then in in an pancake (crpe). pancake preceding recipes. @rApe). Finish as directed in the preceding (see with TomalO Tomato salice sauce (sec Kromeskies are are generally served with Kromeskies SAUCE) or any other suitable sauce. As kromeskies are very much like croquettes we give only are made, made, as as far far as as the basic few special recipes. They arc a a few like croquettes, for for way Iike ingredienls are concerned, ingredients concerned, in every way whch which the recipes are given above. A LA BONNE soNNE femme. CROMESQUIS cRolrrEselJrs la bonne femme. Kromeskies . la (see HASH) coated in in d la la lyonnaise lyonnaise (see FEMME - Beef Bee! /tash HASH) coated FEMME hash batter. balter. A LA I,l, CARMLlTE cRoluEseuls clnrrdure Kromeskies la cllnnlite. carm6lite. CROMESQUIS garlic, ail, pounded with cream to to which with garlic, oil, and and cream Salt Salt cod cod pounded pancakes and and have been added. Wrap in in pancakes been added. chopped truffles trufles have coat with batter. sauce (see SA SAUCE). Serve UCE). a White wine sm/ce Serve with a Ll fLORENTlNEFLoRENTINE A LA KromeskJes Kromeskies i la florentine. CROMESQUIS cRoMEseuls grated which grated Truck SAUCE) ta which Bichamel sauce sauce SAUCE) to Thick Bchamel in butter have have been and spinach cooked in Parmesan cheese Parmesan cheese and added. Wrap in pancakes and coat with butter. preparations which are are When the kromeskies are made of preparations shape ioto into corks corls or into portions and and to to shape or difficult divide into to divide difficult to (as, for Kromeskies d la la for instance, instance, in in the the case case of Kromeskies rectangles, rectangles, (as, urith bchamel then add add bichamel sauce, then florentine), coat the pancakes with florentine), pancakes, cut them thern into pieces and dip the spinach. spinach. Roll the paocakes, Finish as directed above. in frying balter. batter. Finish LA MTREPOIX MIREPoD( A LA lUomeskJes la mirepoix. CROMESQUlS cnorrmsQuls Kromeskies la with VeloUl Velouti sauce or Mirepoix (q.v.) of vegetables, blended blended with used a mea meatless Bech/lmel tless mirepoix is used Bichamel sauce (see SAUCE). If a if minced raw ham il it shou!d blended with bichamel sauce; ifminced should he be blended velouti sauce should he used for for sauce should be used is to the mirepoix, mirepoix, velout is added addd ta pancakes and and coat coat wjth case wrap wrap in in pancakes with In either either case blending. ln separately. Tomato sauce sauce (see SAUCE) separately. balter. batter. Serve Tomaro sAINT-HUBERT Kromeskies cnolrrsseuls SArNT-HUBERT Kromeskies Saint-Hubert. Saint-Hubert. CROMESQU1S
DE FLEURS DE DE couRcEs COURGES -

rl

(s*

Demi-glace sauce (see Salpicon Salpicon (q.v.) of game blended with Demi-glace (sec SAUCE) SA UCE) based on concentrated game stock. Wrap in caul and coat with batter. pB r,6Kromeckies various vegetables. cRoMEseuts Kromeskies with with varions CROMESQUIS DE Lof cooked vegetables cuMEs - Salpicon GUMES Salpicon of vegelables blended blended with Bichamel Bchamel sauce (see (see SAUCE). Wrap in in pancakes and coat with batter. are artichoke The most artichoke The most usual usual vegetables vegetables for for this this dish dish are hearts, asparagus, carrots, salsify and celeriac. celeriac. A t.l Kromeskies A la CROMESQUIS LA vLADIMIR VLADIMIR la Vladimir. cRoMgseus sole, truffies Salpicon Salpicon of fillet flUet of sole, truffles and crayfish tails taUs blended (se SAUCE), based on fish stock. Velouti sauce (sec with thick truck Velout and coat coat with Wrap Wrap in in duchess duchess potatoes and and pancakes and SAUCE). batter. Serve Serve with Normande sauce (s* SAUCE). Mazagrans - Moulded Moulded mazagrans. Butter Butler tartlet tins, and (s* out Duchess line thern them with a thin layer of rolled out Duchess potato potalO (see POTATOES). Fill the tartlets with a salpicon salpicon (q.v.) or any ally other preparation indicated in the recipe. The filling should be quite cold. circle ofpotato of potato mixture cut out Cover each each tartlet tartlet with with a cirde mixture cut out with and brushed with egg. a a fluted fluted biscuit-cutter, biscuit-cutter, and egg. Brush again with egg and brown hrown in a very hot aven. oven. ready and Takethe Take the mazagrans mazagrans out of the tins tins when they are ready arrange on a plate. dee,p fireproof plates with rolledLarge mazagrans. mazagrans. Line decp ro11edpotato mixture. out duchess potato mixture. preparation. Cover with Fill with a salpicon salpicon or other cold preparation. rolledanother layer layer of the potato mixture. mixture. Decorate with roUedcut in out pieces of duchess potato out patata mixture cut in fancy shapes. Bake in a a moderate oven. oven. Serve on on the plate plate on which the mazagran has been bakcd. baked. mazagran a layer layer of of duchess Unmoulded mazagrans. mazagrans. Roll Unmoulded Roll out out a potatoes. Cut circles, using a fluted fluted biscuit-cutter biscuit-cutter Cut it it into iota circles, using a about 5 cm. (2 inches) inches) in diameter. tray. FiJI Fill with with a Put circles on on a a buttered baking tray. a Put these circles buttered baking putting a cold preparation, salpicon or any any other other suitable cold a salpicon or preparation, putting piece the sile size of a walnut on each. of a a second Crclet circlet of duchess potatoes. Seal the the Cover with wiili a potatoes. SeaJ with egg. Brown Brown lightly in a very hot oven. edges and brush witb garnishes, salpicons, or other All salpicons, or other preparations Al! garnishes, preparations given for patties, rissoles, tarUets, also be uscd tartlets, etc., used etc., can also patties. croustades, rissoles, mazagrmts. for mGrzaf!rGrns. and midaillons and M6daillons - The only difference between betwee,n mdaillons their shape. Midaillons Croquettes (see above) is their Croquelles Mdaillons are shaped preparations flat cakes. They are made of the same preparations like small fiat and Dip them in egg egg and and left until until quite cold. cold. Dip as croquettes and saut6 in clarified butter. and saut breadcrumbs and butter. parsley. with fried fried parsley. Arrange in a a circJe. circle. Garnish wilh served with with a sauce appropriatt appropriate to Midaillons M~'tlil'llIl)1H are served ta the basic garnished with also be with vegelables vegetables ingredients. They can can also ingredienls. They be garnished vegetable pur6e. a fairly thick vegetable with butter blended wilh butter or with a ways of serving sulrnrs - There There are several ways are several Oysters. HuTRES hot hors-d'uvre, including Oyslers Oysters d as a a hot hors-d'euvre, ncluding cooked oyslers oysters as (see OYSTERS), (see of oyslers oysters (see I'amdricaine (see OYSTERS), Attereaux l'amricaine Allereau..'.: of fried on skewers, fricd Attereaux oysters on Allereaux above) fritots, fri/OlS, patties, oysters oysters, etc. in ah an horsPancakes served served as as pannequets Pannesrets PllJllllE~llets pannequers il1 - Pancakes (see CrApe bat/er batter (see made from from unsweetened unsweetened Crpe d'euvre are made

cREPE).
pANNEer.JETs AUX prnnequets. PANNEQUETS AUx ANCHOIS ANcHots Cut the Anchory pllooequets. - Cut pancakes into rectangles with Pik.e Pike forcemeat =L,i;Ill~;lQ and trlrrPI'I'lp,CJI and garnish with pancakes (see (see -rr",r-T'll FORCEMEATS) with Anchovy butter (see BUTTER, Anchovy buller butters). Compound bulters). Compound pancakes Roll the 1-'0" fry them. them. PanneErets I la brullOI~ bnrnoise Pannequets ...."'''' ...." and fry - Roll Stuffwith a brunoise (q.v.) of vegetables cooked in butter butter and Stuffwiili blended with Bichunel sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). blended pannequeb (Cheshire Gruyre Gruy0re or or Parmesan). Parmesan). Cheese paooequets Che~ panCakes into rectangles. reCtangles. PANNEQTJETS AU AU FROMAGE FROMAGE cUt the pancakes PANNEQUETS - Cut

480

HORS.D'(EUVRE HORS-D'UVRE Fill them them with cream eream cheese. eheese. Sprinkle with grated cheese, eheese,
brown. and brown. la florentine Oorentine - Cut Cut the the pancakes paneakes into lozenge lozeoge Paonequets i Pannequeb Garnish with spinach spinaeh cooked eooked in butter and blended bleoded shapes. Garnish whieh grated cheese eheese Bchamel sauce (see (see SAUCE) to which with Bdchamel has been been added. added. Sprinkle SprinkJe with with more grated grated cheese, eheese, and has brown. brown. pannequets in breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. pANNEeuErs PANNEQUETS plNfs PANS er ET Fried panneErets FRITS - Prepare the the pancakes paneakes and and stuff them them as as described deseribed FRITS Stuffed pannequets. pannequets. below under Stuffed cut thern them into into pieces, dip dip in in egg egg and Roll into into scrolls, serolls, cut Roll breadcrumbs, and fry. Pancakes prepared in this way are also known in France Pancakes under the name of of croquettes croquettes or or craquelins. craquelins. Apart from the recipes given here, pancakes pancakes can be stuffed stuffed Apart with with all ail kinds of preparations: preparations: pur6es, pures, salpicons, salpicons, creams, ereams, etc. as as given given in in recipes recipes for barquettes, patties, patties, canapis, canaps, etc. for barquetles, tartlets and other small dishes of the same kind. tartlets Pannequets i la grecEre grecque - Rolled pancakes paneakes garnished garnished with Pannequets a salpicon salpicon of of braised mutton, aubergines aubergines sauted saut6ed in oil, and pimentos, (see SAUCE) pimentos, blended blended with sauce (see with Tomato Tomato sauce seasoned with paprika. paprika. Dip in egg and breadcrumbs breaderumbs and fry. fry . seasoned Pannequets are often made made from from very pancakes Pannequets are often very small small pancakes spread with forcemeat, folded in two and browned under the grill. garnished la hongroise - Rolled pancakes garnished Pannequets i la Rolled pancakes with a salpicon of onions and a salpicon and mushrooms cooked cookd in butter until very very soft, with paprika paprika and until soft, seasoned with and blended with (se SAUCE). Bchamel or sauce (see Bichamel or Velout Velouti sauce panneErets A Pannequets I'italienne l'italienne garnished with - Rolled pancakes garnished duxelles to which lean blended with duxelles (q.v.) to lean chopped ham, ham, blended (se SAUCE), has been very thick Tomato sauce (see been added. Dip in egg and breadcrumbs and fry. pancakes and Pannequets ligurienne i la ligurienne and - Make very small pancakes fold in two. two. Garnish a salpicon of anchovies Garnish with a anchovies and and hard(see FONDUE), boiled eggs fondue (see boiled eggs blended with with Tomato fondue FONDUE), seasoned wi th tarragon. with Sprinkle th breadcrumbs and brown. brown. Sprinkle wi with Paonequets pancakes into PanneEreb I la la Saint-Hubert Saint-Hubert Cut the the pancakes - Cut rectangles or into rectangles pure of lozenge shapes. into lozenge shapes. Garnish Garnish with a a pur6e ground game with Demi-glace based on Demi-glace sauce (see SAUCE) based on concentrated game stock. pancakes into Pannequets la strasbourgeoise i la the pancakes Cut the - Cut gras to rectangles. Garnish rectangles. pure of foie with a Garnish with a pur6e to which foie gras chopped truffies have been added. panneErets. PANNEQUETS Stuffed Stuffd pannequets. IANNEeLJETS FOURRS rounn6s -- Make Make the the pancakes large and very thin. Spread them on a table, coat with a thin layer of the seleeted selected foreemeat, forcemeat, roll roll them them up up and and cut cut each roll roll into two two or three pieces. Put these on a a baking tray and heat in the oven. put two If preferred, instead up, put instead of rolling them two together them up, and and cut cut with a biscuit-cutter biscuit-cutter into into rectangles, rectangles, squares, squares, with a lozenges or or circles. For further recipes see CREPES. see CRPES. pArEs AU Sm aU pts pflt6s au gastronome. PETITS au GASTROcAsrRorETITS PTS au gastronome. Small (i inch) thick. pastry approximately mm. (t thick. Cut into rounds Cut into approximately 5 mm. or pastry-cutter. or ovals ovals with a a pastry-cutter. Collect into and roll roll them them out out into remains of the the dough dough and Collect the the remains another first thinner than the the first another layer, which which should should be be a a little thinner layer. second layer. Cut of it. Put the second Cut the same same number ofshapes of shapes out ofiL lot lot of circles on tray. on a a moistened moistened bakiog baking tray. Slightly in of the cireles circles with water. Put Put in Slightly moisten moisten the edges of the size of of a a hazelnut. hazelnut. the centre a portion of of filling filling the the size centre of of each each a This any other other preparaThis can can he forcemeat, minced minced meat meat or or any be forcemeat, tion according chosen.. according to the recipe chosen Cover the first first layer layer of of dough. dough. circles cut cut out out of of the Cover with the the circles Press with the two two circlets circlets stick stick with the of a a spoon spoon so so that that the the back back of together. put in in a a hot hot oven oven for for 12 12 to to 15 15 with egg and put together. Brush Brush with egg and minutes. minutes.

In addition to the recipes given below, small canbe sma)) pdtis pts ean be filled filled with all ail the the ingredients given for barEtettes, barquettes, patties, patties,
tartlets. tartlets, etc.

pit6s suaight Small pts straight from the oyen oven(Larousse) SmaU (Larousse)

pETITs PAlES pArss AUX lux ANCHOIS ANcHoIs anchovy. PETITS Small p$tds with anchovy. SmaU pts with (se FORCEFis h for c eme at (see FO RCEM ake smallpts. small p dt i s. Garnish Garnish with Fishforcemeat Make (see BUTTER, MEATS) with BUTTER, Compound Compound with Anchovy butter butter (see MEATS) salpicon (q.v.) of anchovy fillets has been butters) to which a salpicon added. pArns pETITs PTs A L'ANDALOUSE pitds L'ANDALoUSE t l'andalouse. I'andalouse. PETITS SmaU Small pts pdtis. Garnish Make small with sa sausage meat to to which which a a small pts. Garnish with Make usage meat and chopped chopped onions butter, and salpicon of pimentos cooked in butter, lightly fried in butter, has been butter, has Iightly been added. pArrs pErlrs PTS pites LA CHARCUA LA la cbarcutire. charcutiEre. PETITS cHA,Rcut la Small pts pdtis garnished garnished with meat to to which with sausage sausage meat TIRE uiinn -- Small Small pts parsley has chopped parsley has been added. chopped pErlrs PTS pArns pit6s A LA LA DUXELLES DLxELLES la duxeUes. duxelles. PETITS Small Small pts i la (see FORCEMEATS) FORCEMEATS) to Garnish with wrth Pork Pork forcemeat Garnish forcemeat (see equal part of dry duxelles (q.v.) has been added. which an equal pErlrs PTS pAr6s DE pB POISSONS potssoNs pfltds. PETITS can be fish pts. Small 6sb - These ean with a a forcemeat forcemeat of of pike, made in in any any shape. shape. Garnish Garnish with made salpicon of of cooked cookod fish, whiting or any other other fish, fish, or or a a salpicon or any whiting (sw SAUCE) Veloutd sauce (see SAUCE) based based on on fish fish thick Velout blended with thick and truffies can can be added stock. If desired, desired, diced diced mushrooms and stock. to the salpicon. to pAr6s D. pErlrs PTS game pts pitds with os AU with stock. stock. PETITS cIBIER AU Small Sm aU game E GIBIER pdtis with the recipe recipe for for Small with rus -- Proceed as as indicated in the Small pts JUS (se below) but use game instead instead of forceforcestock (see use a a salpicon of game stock meat. meal. pArfs AU pETrrs PTS pites au gashonome. PETITS au gastronome. Small lu GASTROcAsrRoSm aU pts pdtis garnished garnished with a a salpicon of eocks' cocks' NoME NOME Small oval pts - Small pickled or smoked tongue, tongue, truffies and and mushrooms, combs, pickled or smoked combs, Demi-glace sauce sauce Madeira-flavoured Demi-glace with strong strong Madeira-ftavoured blended blended with (see SAUCE). (see SAUCE). pArfs pETIrs PTS p0tes A LA L-a LYONNAISELYoNNATsE la lyonnaise. PETITS SmaU Small pts t la pdtis garnished garnished with finely chopped or choppod braised braised or square pts Small Small square onions chopped onions have been been added added chopped to which which have boiled boilod beef beef to concentrated soft, and and blended blended with with coocentrated in butter until until soft, cooked cooked in veal stock. stock. veal pArEs DE pETIrs PTs pfltds. PETITS on VIANDES vIANDES -- Any Any shape. shape. meat pts. Small Small meat (se below) pdtis d la h Saint-Hubert below) Garnish Garnish as as for for Small Small pts Saint-Hubert (see game by puree of kind of of meat. meat. by any any kind replacing the pure of game pErlrs PTS pArfs A LA MoscovlrE pit6s LA MOSCOVITEi la la moscovite. moscovite. PETITS SmaU Small pts (see DOUGH), less fine fine than than usual DOUGH), less usual Make a Brioche dough dough (see Make a Brioche (3 inches) inches) in in approximately 7! cm. (3 and cut it into into circles circles of of approximately and cut it ft cm. diameter. diameter. (see FORCEMEAT) piece of the size size P ike for cemeat (see FORCEMEAT) the Put of Pikeforcemeat Put a a piece middle of of each each circle. circle. of of a a walnut walnut in in the the middle

481 481

HORS.D'(EUVRE HORS-D'UVRE
Top with with a little little cooked semolina and and a slice of of raw white white fish. Season Season with salt and spices. Fold the the dough dough over towards wards the the centre centre from the sides, making small oval-shaped oval-shaped pies. pies. Press Press the the rims together together and and crimp the edges. edges. Make a small Put on a tray tray in a warm warm place place and and sm ail hole hole in in the the middle. middle. Put leave bake in leave to to rise rise for for 30 30 minutes. minutes. Brush Brush with with egg egg and andhake in a hot oven oven for for 25 25 minutes. minutes. Just Just before before serving serving pour pour into into the the opening opening of of each each pie pie a a little !ittle concentrated concentrated Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE) SAUCE) to to which which
chopped chopped parsley parsley and and lemon lemon juice juice have have been been added. added. Small Sm a]] mutton mutton pfltds. pts. runrs PETITS pArfs P Ts or DE uouroN MOUTON A r'lNcLArsE L'ANGLAISELine Line deep deep tartlet tarti et moulds moulds with Lining Lining paste pas te (s@ (see DOUGH). DOUGH). Fill Fill with with small small dice dice of of mutton, mutton, half half lean lean half half fat. fat. Season Season with with salt and and pepper pepper and and sprinkle sprinkle with with chopped chopped herbs. herbs. Make Make some sorne puffpastry puff pastry and and give give it it 8 8 turns. turns. Cover Cover thepdtis the pts with with little little circles circles of of pastry. pastry. Brush Brush with with egg egg and and make make a small small hole of each each pie. pie. hole in in the the middle middle of Bake Bake in in a a cool cool oven oven for for 35 35 minutes. minutes. As As you you take the the pdtis pts out out of of the the oven oven pour pour into into each each 2 2 teaspoons teaspoons Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Small SmaJ] poultry poultry pOtes pts with with stock. stock. pnrrrs PETITS pAres PTs op DE VoLATLLE VOLAILLE AU As described described in in the the recipe recipe for for Small Smal/ pdtis pts with with stock stock AU JUsJUS - As (see (see below) below) using using a a salpicon salpicon of of poultry. poultry. Small Sma]] pitds pts la la reine. reine. pErlrs PETITS pAms PTS A LA LA REINE REINE - Small Small round round pdtis pts garnished garnished with with poultry poultry puree pure to to which which chopped chopped trufles, tru ffies , blended blended with thick thick Veloutd Velout sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE), SAUCE), have have been been added. added. Snall Sma]] p0t6s pts la la Saint-Hubert Saint-Hubert. pnnrs PETITS pArrs PTS A LA LA sArNrSAINTHLJBERT HUBERT - Small Small round round pdtds pts garnished with with game game pur6e pure blended with Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE) based on concentrated centrated game stock. Small pttds pts with stock. eETITS PETITS pArns PTS ,lu AU rus JUS - Line small pastry moulds moulds with Lining Lining paste paste (sea (see DOUGH). Fill them with a salpicon of forcemeat, mushrooms mushrooms and truffies blended with strong strong Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Cover Co ver each mould with a round of puff puff pastry. Press Press the rims together. Fut Put on each each a small small ring ring of of puff puff pastry cut out with a smaller diameter than the lid. with a fluted pastry-cutter pastry-cutter of ofa Make Make a small hole hole in the middle middle of of the lid. lido Brush with egg and bake in a hot oven for 15 to 18 minutes. Take the pdtis pts out of of the moulds. Pour Pour into each a few drops of thickened veal stock, piping hot. hot. pts with stock can be prepared in the same sa me way Small pdtis Small using of other other meat. meat. using all ail kinds kinds of Small la strasbourgeoise. strasbourgeoise. pETrrs PETITS pArrs PTS A r,c, LA Sma]] pfltes pts la srRAsBouRGEoIsE purfie of STRASBOURGEOISE - Garnished with a a pure of foie foie gras to which which chopped chopped truffies truffies have have been added. added. Gamisbed patties. Boucxr6Es BOUCHES cARNrEs GARNIES - Puff Puff pastry baked Gandshed blind, blind, garnished garnished with with meat, meat, fish fish or or vegetable vegetable salpicon salpicon (q.v.). (g.v.). puff pastry pastry 6 times, times, and then then to a thickness of Roll out puff mm. (* (! inch). inch). Cut Cut out out circles 6*... 6! cm. (2t (2! inches) inches) in in diameter diameter 5 mm. with a fluted pastry-cutter. Place on a a slightly moistened moistened with metal tray. tray. Brush Brush with egg, egg, mark mark the lid by pressing each metal circ1e lightly lightly with with a smaller sm aller pastry-cutter. pastry-cutter. circle Bake the the patties patties in in a hot hot oven. oven. Remove the lids !ids and and scoop scoop Bake out the the soft part part from the the interior interior of of the the patty. patty. out Very Very small, small, hollowed hollowed out and and variously filled filled brioches brioches are are also also called called patties. patties.

t i

To Toprepare preparebouchees, bouches,roll roll out out puffpastry puff pastryand and cut cutout outcircles circleswith with aafluted Ilutedpastry-cutter pastry-cutter

Place Place the the circles circles of ofpastry pastry on on a a slightly slighy moistened moistened metal metal tray tray

(I-arowse) (Larousse)

Mark Markthe thelid lidwith withaasmaller smallerpastry-cutter pastry-cutter

Bakedbouchees bouchesready readyfor for filling(lnrousse) filling (Larousse) Baked

482 482

HORS-D'GUVRE HORS-D'UVRE
Filling Filling the the patties. patties. Fill Fill with with a a simple simple or compound compound meat, meat, fish fish or or vegetable vegetable salpicon, salpicon, blended blended with with white white or or brown brown stock, pur6es pures of of meat, meat, fish fish or or vegetables. vegetables. All All the the fillings fillings recommended recommended for for barquettes, barquettes, cro0tes, crotes, tartlets and similar similar dishes dishes can also also be be used used for patties. Very Very tartlets and small patties gamish for large dishes dishes of patties can be be used used as as a garnish various kinds. kinds. Slightly bigger bigger patties can be be served as small various entres. entries. Just Just before before filling, filling, put put them them in the the oven oyen for a few seconds. If If at at all ail possible, possible, arrange the cooking cooking so that that garnishing garnishing can take place place the the minute minute they come come out out of of the oven. oyen. This This makes makes take great difference to the flavour. a great tlavour. The same same applies to all ail a dishes filled filled with a a salpicon or other hot kinds of pastry dishes garnish. I'am6ricaine. l'amricaine. soucH6ns BOUCHES A l'*l6ntclrqr L'AMRICAINE - Fill Patties i salpicon of of spiny lobster lobster or or Lobster d I'amiricaine l'amricaine (see (see with a salpicon with LOBSTER). LOBSTER). la b6n6dictine. bndictine. noucnfrs BOUCHES A r,c' LA s6Nfntcrnm BNDICTINE - Fill Patties A which with salt cod pounded with garlic, oil and cream, to which Coyer the patties with slices slices diced truffies have been added. Cover of truffies. truffies. of la bouquetilre. bouquetire. soucHEns BOUCHES A u LA souQUErdRE BOUQUETIRE Patties i FiU with vegetable vegetable macidoine macdoine (q.v.), blended with Bichamel Bchamel Fill Velout sauce sauce (se,e (see SA UCE). SAUCE). or Velouti cr.c.MARr la Clamart. BOUCHES A rn LA CLAMART - Fill with a Patties i Clamart. BoucHEEs pur6e of cream. pure of fresh peas with cream. ltrx CREVISSES fcnrvtssns Crayfisb BOUCHES AUX Crayfish patties. BoucHfEs - Fill with a (see sauce (see with Nantua ragot of bound with Nantua sauce ragofrt tails bound of crayfish crayfish tails SAUCE). sAUCE). Fill with cnfcv - Fill m cRCY A LA Patties la with a soucHiss la Crcy. Crecy. BOUCHES puree of vegetable stock. pure of carrots cooked in vegetable A LA DIEPPOISE DIEPPoISE noucn6ss Patties Patties i la dieppoise. BOUCHES - Fill with a White wine prawns blended with White and prawns salpicon blended with mussels and salpicon of mussels sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). A LA LA FINANCIRE rrN.lNcriins -- Fill noucrSss Patties la financire. financibre. BOUCHES I la (se SALPICON). Coyer with Cover with financire (see with Salpicon d la financiire Salpicon sliced truffies. truffes. Fill with ruusNNE -- Fill soucHfEs A LA Ll JULIENNE Patties I la julienne. BOUCHES butter and blended vegetables eut cut into matchsticks, stewed in butter with cream. Patties Patties with witb oysters. oysters. soucHfns BOUCHES lux AUX nulrnrs HuTRES - Fill Fill with with poached poached oysters, oysters, drained drained and and debearded, debearded, mixed mixed with with Normande Normande sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) made made with with white white wine. wine. pfntcounDlNr Patties Patties i la p6rigourdine. prigourdine. noucHfes BOUCHES A u LA PRIGOURDINE and foie Fill Fill with with a salpicon of of truffies truffles and foie gras, gras, blended blended with with SAUCE). Madeira-flavoured Madeira-tlavoured Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see (see SA UCE). Patties Patties with poultry. noucnfns BOUCHES DE DE voLAILLE VOLAILLE - Fill Fill with with a a salpicon salpicon of of poultry poul try or or pur6e pure of of poultry poultry with with cream. cream. Patties i la la reine. reine. BoucHEEs BoucHES A rlr LA nnrxe REINE - Fill Fill with with a a pur6e pure of of poultry poultry with with cream cream or or Salpicon d la la reine reine (see (see SALPTCON). SALPICON). Patties i la Saint-Hubert. Saint-Hubert. BoucHEEs BOUCHES A u LA slnqr-HUBERT SAINT-HUBERTsalpicon made Fill Fil! with a pur6e pure of of game game or salpicon made from from the the meat meat of of ground ground game. game. These patties patties should be oval. S6vign6 patties. Svign patties. BoucHEES BOUCHES s6vtctqf SVIGN - Fill Fill with with a a salpicon salpicon of of (see in Veloutd chicken quenelles quenelles with truffies cooked in Velout sauce sauce (see patty. each patty. SAUCE). Put half a heart of braised braised lettuce on on each Fill with a cREvErrEs Patties shrimps. soucHfEs Patties with sbrimps. BOUCHES A,Lx AUX CREVETTES with a - Fill (see SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). ragofit shrimp tails with Shrimp sauce ragot of shrimp with lux LArrANcEs Patties with soft roes. BoucH6ss BOUCHES AUX LAITANCES - Fill Fill with (see sauce (see Velouti sauce cream or soft roe with cream salpicon of soft a salpicon or with with Velout sAUCE). SAUCE). Fill with with a a TRUFFES BoucHEEs AI-rx truffies. BOUCHES Patties with trumes. AUX TRUFFES - Fill or with cream or in butter, butter, with stewed in of truffies truffies stewed salpicon of salpicon with cream with Madeira or similar similar wine. Madeira Russian This is is the Russian PIRocuI Piroghi (Russian cookery). PIROGUI - This from be made made from can be Piroghi can pies of kinds. Piroghi various kinds. name for pies of various name for puff pastry, etc., etc., pancake batter, puffpastry, c h ou p a s t e, pancake do ughs : choupaste, different doughs: different game, fish, poultry, game, fish, such as as meat, poultry, filled with mixtures such. and filled and (See PIROGHI.) PIROGHI.) vegetables, rice, cheese. (See pirozhok of diminutive of a diminutive rIRoJKI Plural of pirozhok Pirozlrki. PIROJKI Pirozhki. -a - Plural of different different all kinds of piroghii.e. small pie or patty, filled with ail piroghi- i.e. (See PIROGHI.) PIROGHI.) ingredients. (See small a very very small in the shape shape of a Pomponnettes Pomponoettes - Rissoles made in pouch. (s?E DOUGH), paste (see DOUGH), to to a a quality Lining Lining paste Roll out out best best quality Roll pastryfluted pastrywith a a fluted circles with Cut circ1es thickness of 5 mm. (t thickness G inch). Cut diameter' (3 inches) in in diameter. 7| cm. cm. (3 cutter 7i Lightly puree the of a a walnut. walnut. Lightly size of the size of pure a portion of Fill with a Fill middle the middle fold in towards towards the and fold dough and moisten the rim of the dough a hot hot pouch. Fry fat over over a deep fat Fry in in deep shape of a a small pouch. to make the shape puffpastry. left-over puff from left-over can be made from Pomponnetter can flame. Pomponnetles flame. pastry. can be be used. used. rissoles can for rissoles recipes for given in in the the recipes All fillings given After FoURREEs -- After DE TERRE rERRE FOURRES potatoes. POMMES PoMI\tEs DE Stuffed potatoes. Stuffed of their their and two-thirds two-thirds of oven and in the the oyen potatoes have have been been baked in potatoes Ragofrt d la cancalaise, cancalaise, Ragot Ragofit d la with Ragot pulp scooped fill with out, fill scooped out, pulp (q.v') of of salpicon (q.v.) (see RAGOT) with a a salpicon or with RAGOOT) or Nanti (see 7a Nantua la poultry. poultry. garnished with with cream gamished a cream with a Flan filled filled with lorraine -- Flan Quicbe Quiche lorraine piping hot. hot. The The method method and served served piping bacon and of lean lean bacon thin slices slices of thin quiches is under QUICHE. is described described under preparing quiches of preparing of QUICHE.
illrl

mussels mussels with with Allemande Allemande or or Poulette Poulette sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE). SA UCE).

shellfish. or otber other sbeUfisb. spiny lobster, lobster, or lobster, spiny Patti es witb Patties with lobster, a salpicon Fill with a - Fill or Velout Velouti Bichamel or blended with with Bchamel shellfish, blended of the the chosen chosen shel!fish, (see SAUCE) finished with with and finished fish stock stock and based on on fish sauce sauce (see SAUCE) based or any any (see BUTTER, butters) or Compound butters) BUTTER, Compound Crayfish butter (see Crayfish butter other shellfish butter. other shellfish (square shape). MoNTGLAS -noucH6Es MONTGLAS shape). BOUCHES Patties Patties Montglas Montglas (square combs and and cocks' combs sweetbreads, cocks' of lamb sweetbreads, Fill Fill with a a salpicon salpicon of Madeirawith a a Madeirablended with kidneys, and mushrooms, blended kidneys, truffies truffies and (see SAUCE). Top with with small small sauce (see SAUCE). Top flavoured Demi-glace sauce flavoured Demi-glace gras and slices of of truffies. foie gras slices of/are and slices slices of Fill with with MouLEs -- Fill Aux MOULES noucHfss AUX Patties mussels. BOUCHES Patties with with mussels.
A LA L^1, LANGOUSTE L^lNcousrE HoMARD, BOUCHES soucHfrs AU AU HOMARD,

Patties li. d la la reine reine Palties (Larousse) (Larousse)

483 483

HORS-D'(EUVRE HORS-D'UVRE
Ramekins. RAMEQUINS RAl,rgeurNs -- Tartlets Tartlets with with cream cream cheese. cheese. This This Ramekin.~, name is given to is aJso also given pastry made to aa smaJi small pastry paste to made of of chou chou paste to name which cheese cheese is is added. added. For preparation sec For their their preparation see RAMERAMEwhich KINS. KINS. Rastegai -- Russian Russian patty, patty, made yeast dough made of of a a yeast dough and and Rastegai sealed only only at at the the ends. ends. Divide Divide the yeast dough the yeast g. dough into into 150 150 g. scaled (5 oz.) pieces, roll oz.) pieccs, roll into into balls, balls, allow allow to to stand stand for for 8 8 to to 10 l0 (5 minutes then then roll roll out into circJes. out into circles. Put Put on I tabJespoon on each, each, 1 tablespoon minutes minced beef beef with with chopped chopped eggs eggs and and onion, forcemeat, or oniono fish fish forcemeat, or minced chopped mushrooms. mushrooms. Crimp Crimp up up the the ends, ends, making making a a boatboatchopped patty, leaving shaped patty, leaving the the middle middle unsealed unsealed and and the the filling filling shaped exposed. Hence Hence the the name, name, which which in in Russian Russian means means 'un'unexposed. buttoned'. Leave Leave to to stand stand for for 10 10 minutes, minutes, then then bake bake in in a a hOl hot bultoned'. oven. When \Mhen ready, ready, brush brush the the ras/ego; rastegai with with melted melted butter butter and and oven. garnish appropriate add gamish appropriate to to the the filling. filling. Thus, Thus, a a fish fish ras/egai rastegai add should have have a a slice slice of of cooked cooked salmon salmon or or sturgeon, sturgeon, for for a a should mushroom ras/egai rastegai a a teaspoon teaspoon of pickled cpes of small small pickled cipes or or mushroom slices of of hard-boiled hard-boiled egg, egg, etc. etc. Fish Fish raslegais rastegais are are served served as as an an slices (clear I1sh accompaniment to to ukha, ukha, (clear fish soup), rastegais to soup), meat meat ras/egais to accompaniment strong beef beef consomm, consomm6, and and mushroom mushroom raslegais rastegais to to mushmushstrong room consomm. consomm6. room pasta envelopes RavioH Small pasta envelopes filled pur6e filled with with different different pure Ravioli - SmalJ poached. Serve stufrngs, and and poached. Serve in in a grated a clear clear soup soup with with grated stuffings, (See RAVIOLI.) cheese. (See RAVIOLI.) cheese. Ravio[ la lituanielllle i la litranienre See vareniki vareniki in in this this section. section. RavioU - Sec pastries of Rissoles Sm'all pastries (round, oval, of various various shapes shapes (round, oval, - SmaU Rissoles rectangular or or turnovers). turnovers). Rissoles Rissoles are are made made from from a a variety variety rectangular of doughs, doughs, including paste, left-over including lining lining paste, puff pastry pastry or left-over puff or of pastry. They ordinary brioche brioche pastry. They are are filled filled mainly mainly with with crocroordinary quette ingredients. ingredients. The The filling filling should put on should ooly only be be put on the quette pastry when quite cold. when it it is is quite cold. For For the preparation method of of preparation pastry the method see RISSOLES. RISSOLES. see Generally speaking speaking rissoles should be be fried, fried, but someGenerally rissoles should but someare baked times in the the oyen. oven. times they they are baked in Rfssols I la la bohmielllle boh6mienne (see dough (see Using Brioclu Brioche dough Rissoles - Using DOUGH) shape of of turnovers. turnovers. Fill Fill DOUGH) make make the the rissoles rissoles in in the the shape gras and with of foie and truffies salpicon of foie gras truffles blended blended with with rich rich with a a salpicon (see SA Demi-glace SAUCE). Demi-glace sauce sauce (see UCE). Rissoles i la chalonnaise Rissoles il la chalonnaise Round rissoles rissoles of of puff puff pastry. pastry. - Round Fill Fil! with with a a salpicon salpicon of of cocks'combs cocks' combs and and kidneys, kidneys, trufles truffles and and mushrooms, SAUCE) mushrooms, blended blended with with thick truck Velouti Velout sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) based chicken stock. stock. based on on crucken Cinderella Cinderella rissoles. rissoles. RrssolEs RISSOLES cENDR.TLLoN CENDRILLON - Make Make the rissoles shape of rissoles using using Brioche Brioche dough dough (see (see DOUGII) DOUGH) in in the the shape of turnovers. turnovers. Fill Fill with with a a salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) of of poultry poultry and and truffies truffles blended foic gras. blended with with a a prurbe pure of offoie gras. Rissoles Rissoles I la la dauphine dauphine - Make Make Brioche Brioche dough dough rissoles rissoles in in the shape ofturnovers. of turnovers. the shape Rissoles Rissoles filled filled with with all ail kinds k.inds of of garnishes, garnishes, salpicons salpicons (q.v.), (q.v.), etc. etc. are are served served under under this this name. name. The The name name of of the the main main ingredients ingredient~ should should appear appear on on the the menu, rissoles d rissoles d Foie gras gras rissoles la la dauphine, dauphine, Lobster Lobs/er rissoles menu, e.g. e.g. Foie la dauphine, etc. la dauphine. etc. Farm Fann riseoles. rissoles, RIssoLEs RISSOLES A r,q, LA FERMritnE FERMIRE --- Made Made from from Lining Lining paste paste (s* (see DOUGH) DOUGH) cut cut into into circles. circles. Fill Fil! with with a a salpicon salpicon of of equal equal quantities quantities of of ham ham and and mirepoix mirepoix (q.v.) (q.v.) of of vegetables vegetables cooked cooked in in butter, butter, blended blended with with rich rich Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see (see sAUCE). SAUCE). Foie Foie gras gras rissoles. rissoles, RJssoLEs RISSOLES AU Ali FoIE FOIE cRAs GRAS - Choose Choose your yom dougb dough according according to to taste. taste. Fill Fil! with with a a puree pure of offoie foie gras gras to to which which chopped chopped trufres truffles cari cali be be added, added, if if desired. desired. poMpADouR Pompadour RISSOLES POMPADOUR - Roll Roll out out Pompadour rissoles. rissoles. RJssoLEs left-over left-over puff puff pastry pastry and and cut cut into into circles. circles. Fill Fil] with with a a salpicon salpicon of of pickled pickl.xl or or smoked smoked tongue, tongue, truffies truffies and and mushrooms mushrooms blended blended wfih with Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see (sec SAUCE). SAUCE). Sausages Sausages, sAucrssEs SAlIC1SSES - Small Small chipolata chipolata sausages, sa usages, StrasStrasbourg, bourg, Frankfurt Frankfurt and and Vienna Vienna sausages sausages are are served served as as horshorsd'euvre. d'uvre. 484 484

spread with with mustard. mustard. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with fried fried breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, spread season with with a a litt little put in cayenne and and put for a in the the oven oven for a minute. minute. season le cayenne Garnish with parsley. with fresh fresh parsley. Garnish Sausages i la la duchesse. duchesse. SAUCISSES sAuclssns rl DUCHESSE A LA oucnessn -- Fry Sousages Fry the the quickly in sausages quickly in butter. butter. Make Make oval oval cakes cakes of Duchess of Duchess sausages potato (see (see POTATOES) POTATOES) brown brown them thern in in the the oyen put a oven and po/alO and put a potato cake. sausage on on each each potato cake. sausage Add white white wine wine and and Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce (see SA sauce (sec SAUCE) Add UCE) to to the the butter in in which which the the sa sausages were cooked. cooked. Boil Boil down, down, add add butter usages were pour trus more butter butter and and pmu this sauce sauce over over the the sausages. sausages. Sprinklc more Sprinkle with chopped parsley. chopped parsley. with Frankfurf Strasbourg Shasbourg and and Vienna Viennq sausages. sausages. SAUCISSES sAucrssns DE Frankfurt, DE FRANCFoRT, DE DE STRASBOURG, srRAsBoLJRG, DE DE VIENNEvIENNE- Poach Poach the sausages the sausages FRANCFORT, in boiling boiling water water for for 10 l0 minutes. minutes. Drain, and grated and serve serve with with grated in horseradish. horseradish. Sausages I l'italienne. l'italienne. SAUCISSES sAUcIssEs A L'ITALIENNEL'TTALTENNE - Proceed as Sausages as for Sausages d la h duchesse. Pour very (see very thick {/a/ian ltalian sauce sauce (sec for SAUCE) over over the the sausages. sausages. SAUCE) Sausages i la la languedocielllle. languedocienne. SAUCISSES sAucrssEs A LA m LANGUElaNcwSausages DocIENNE - Fry the sa sausages Cut an aubergine aubergine into DOCIENNE usages in butter. Cut slices. Dip Dip in flour and and fry fry in in oil. oil. Put 1 I sausage sausage on on each each slice slice slices. of fried fried aubergine, aubergine, and and top top with with J I tablespoon tablespoon Toma/o Tomato of (see FONDUE) FONDUE) seasoned seasoned with with a a liule little chopped chopped fondue fondue (see garlic. Sprinkle Sprinkle with fried frid breadcrumbs, put in the oyen oven for a garlic. a and serve. minute, sprinkle with chopped parsley and Sausage i la lyonnaise. lyonnaise. SA sAucrssoN cHAUD A LA r,,c, LyoNNAls Sausage UCISSON CHA UD LYONNAISEsausage served with hot potato salado salad. Poached saveloy sa usage served Saveloys are often often made made with with truffies, trufres, and and also also with Saveloys are with pistachio nuts added. pistachio Sausages il i la maltaise. maltai,se. SAUCISSFS sAucrssEs A rrlA,LrAlsn Sausages r,c, LA MALTAISE - Fry the sausages in sausagcs in butter. Cut a a sandwich loaf into thick rectangular Hollow rectangular pieces. Hollow I sausage sausage on each piece. out and fry fry in butter. Put 1 Add white wine to the butter in which the sa sausages usages were fried, stirring stirring well. Season with with a little little chopped chopped shallot. Make weil. Season (se SAUCE). Blanch sorne a rich Demi-glace sauce (sec some orange orange peel, strips and add sauce. peel, drain, drain, cut into into very very thin strips add to to the sauce. Pour sausages. Pour over the sausages. Sausages i la sAucrssEs A la tyrolienne. tyrollelllle, SAUCISSES ra LA rynolrENNE TYROLIENNE Cook the sausages sa usages under the grill. Cut a sandwich loaf Joaf into thick rectangular rectangular pieces. Hollow Hollow them out and fry in butter. butter. Garnish Garnish with Tomato Tomalo fondue fondue (see (see FONDUE). FONDUE). Put I 1 sausage sausage on each piece of of fried fcied bread. bread. Fry onion onion rinp rings in oil and put put 2 rings on each sausage. sausage. Sausages i Ia la zingara. zingara. sAucrssns SAUCISSES A m LA zlNclna ZINGARA - Fry the the sausages sausages in butter. Grill Grill some sorne mushrooms mushrooms and and fill fill with a julienne Julienne (q.v.) of lean lean ham, scarlet tongue, truffies truffles and mushrooms, mushrooms, blended blended with with tomato-flavoured tomato-flavoured Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (s* (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Put Put I 1 sausage sausage on on each each garnishod garnished mushroom. mushroom. Sprinklewith Sprinkle with chopped chopped tarragon. tarragon. Scallop Scallop shellg shells, gamished. coeurl.I,ns COQUILLES cARNrEs GARNIES - Using Using a a forcing-bag, forcing-bag, make make a a thin thin border border of Duchess Duchess potatoes potalOes (see (sec POTATOES) POT A TOES) round round the the edge edge of of the the scallop scallop shell. You You can can also also use use thin thin lspndlt rounds of of boiled boiled potatoes. potatoes. Put Put I1 tablespoon tablespoon of of the the desired desired sauce sauce on on the the bottom bottom of of the the shell. shell. Garnish Gamish according according to to the the recipe recipe chosen, chosen, and and spoon spoon over over some sorne more more of of the the same same sauce. sauce. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with breadbreadcrumbs crumbs or or grated grated cheese, cheese, depending depending on on the the ingredients ingredients used, used, and and with with melted melted butter. butter. Put Put the the shells shells into into a a bakingdish bak.ing-dish containing containing warm warm water, water, and and brown brown in in a a very very hot hot oven. oyen. When When scallop scallop shells shells are are gratini gratine (sprinkled (sprinkled with with breadbreadcrumbs crumbs and and grated grated cheese cheese and and browned browned in in the the oven) oyen) or or glazd glazed (heated (heated quickly quickly in in a a hot hot oven), oyen), the the shells shells can can be be preprepared pared without without a a potato potato border. border.

Devilled chipolata chipolata sausages. saussges. SAUCISSES sAucrsss CHIPOLATAS cHrpor,lrAs A LA r,c, Devilled DIABLE - Cook Cook chipolata chipolata sausages sausages under grill. Put under a a grill. DIABLE Put each each sausage on on a a slice slice of which has of bread bread wruch has been fried in been fried in butter sausage butter and and

HORS.D'(EUVRE HORS-D'UVRE
The The function function of of the the border border is s to contain contain the the ingredients ingredients of the the garnish. It can can be be made made of of different different preparations, prepara tions, which go go well weJJ with with the the main main ingredient ingredient of of the the garnish. garnsh. You Vou can, can, for instance, make make a rim of chicken, veal or fish forcemeat forcemeat for the or pipe pipe a border border of of spinach, spinach, rice, rice, etc. the shells, or The The shells shells can can be he made made without breadcrumbs breadcrumbs or or glazing. glazing. If If they they are are made made with with a border border of of duchess potato potato they they should should be be baked quickly quckly in the oven, to give give the the potato pota ta a good colour baked before before the garnish is added. added. After After the shells shells have have been been coated coated with with a sauce, sauce, browned browned or glazd, they can glazed, can be be decorated with with truffies, truffles, mushrooms, mushrooms, asparagus asparagus tips, etc. Care Care should be be taken to use use only only decorawhich are in harmony harmony with the basic ingredients. Ingredients. tions which Scallop Scallop shells shells of bonemarrow booe-marrow la la duxellcs. duxelles. coQUILLES COQUILLES D'AMouRETrns D'AMOURETTES A ul LA DUxELLES DUXELLES - Make a border of Duchess potatoes (see with slices slices of of bonebone(sec POTATOES). Garnish with Duxelles sauce.(see sauce (sec SAUCE). SA UCE). marrow, mushrooms and Duxelles Sprnkle meltect butter and aod brown Sprinkle with breadcrumbs and meltod a few drops of lemon juice the top. After cooking, sprinkle sprnkle a juice on the shells and garnish with chopped parsley. parsley. of brains brains I'allemande. l'aUemande. coQuILLEs COQU1LLES DE ScaJlop shells of Scallop shelh a border of duchess CERVELLE L'ALLEMANDE - Make Make a border of cERvELLE A L'ALtrulNDE potatoes. Garnish Garnish with slices of lamb's or calf's brain and (sw SAUCE). G1aze Glaze in the oven. Allemande sauce (see cERvELLE I l'aurore. I'aurore. coeuILLEs shelb of brains brains COQUILLES DE CERVELLE Scallop sheDs Garnish A a border t'aunonE L'AURORE - Make a border of duchess potatoes. Garnsh SAUCE). and Aurore sauce (see SA with brains, brains. mushrooms mushrooms and UCE). Sprinkle with grated cheese, pour melted Spriokle meltoo butter over the with chopped sprinkle with and brown. cooked, spriokle shells, and brown. When When cooked, shells, a round them a hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs and and chopped parsley. parsley. Pour Pour rouod (se SAUCE). SAUCE). ring of Tomato sauce (sec la duxelles. coQUILLES DE brafurs la duxelles. COQU1LLES Scallop shells shells of Scallop of brains same way way as nuxsl,r,Es - Prepare in in the r,l, DUXELLES cERvELLE A LA CERVELLE the same slices of duxelles, using slices of shells of bone-marrow bone-marrow d la h duxe/les, Scallop shells Scallop brains instead instead of of bone-marrow. bone-marrow. DE BARBUE coQUILLES DE of briU brill Mornay. Mornay. COQUILLES Scallop shells shells of Scallop with Garnish with MoRNAy border of duchess potatoes. Gamish MORNAY - Make a border (see SAUCE). sauce (sec with Mornay slices of of cooked cooked brill brill with slices Mornay sauce pou melted melted butter over the shells and Sprinkle with cheese, pour brown. (In U.S.A. grey sole for flounder can can be be substituted for U.S.A. grey sole or or flounder (ln brill.) bril!.) coQUILLES DE brill la la trouvillaise. trouvillaise. COQUILLES Scallop shells shells of of brill Scallop duchess Make a a border border of of duchess A LA TROUVILLAISE BARBIE rnouvILLAIsE - Make BARBUE garnishing with slices slices of of Brown the the border before garnishlng potatoes. Brown (see SA sauce (sec SAUCE). shrimps and and Shrimp Shrimp sauce brill, mussels, mussels, shrimps brU. UCE). glazed, but should be be decorated decorated they should shells are are not not glazed. but they These shells heads. with small mushroom heads. o'fcnrvtssss -- Make coeuILLEs D'CREVISSES shells of crayfisb, crayfish. COQU1LLES ScaJlop Scallop sheUs potatoes and garnish with tail with Crayfish Crayfish tail and garnish a rim rim of of duchess duchess potatoes a (see CRA ragofrt la NantUi7 CRAYFISH). Nantua (sec d la YFISH). ragot (see below). shrimps (sec shells of of shrimps for Scal/op as for Scallop shel/s Finish as The shells shells used very smal!. should be very used should small. The AU D'oEUFs AU gratin. COQUILLES au gratin. coQuILLEs D'OEUFS of eggs eggs au Scallop sheDs shells of ScaJlop garnish potatoes and and gamish Make a a border of duchess duchess potatoes border of cRATIN - Make GRATIN Mornay sauce and Mortwy cut into into large dice, dice, aod hard-boiled eggs eggs cut with hard-boiled with in the the oven. oven. (see SAUCE). and brown in with checse cheese and SAUCE). Sprinkle Sprinkle with (see polssoNs -- Prepare as DE POISSONS Prepare as fish. COQU1LLES coeuIrI.Es DE shells of of fish. Scallop Scallop sheDs shrimps, of brill. brill, shrimps, for scallop scallop shells shells of the recipes recipes for described in in the described and mussels. mussels. soft roes roes and liver, lobster. lobster, oysters, oysters, soft crayfish, skate skate Iiver, crayfish, garnishes and directed in in the the sauces, as as directed and sauces, Fill the the shells shells with with gamishes FiJI for fish fish in in scallop scallop often for The sauces sauces used used most most often recipe chosen. chosen. The recipe shrimp, duxe/les, duxelles, Aurore, Bchamel, Bicharnel, shrimp, following: Aurore. shells are are the the following: shlls Nantua, nioise, nigoise, Italian, Mornay, Mornay, Naotua, Hungarian, curry, curry, Italiao, lobster, Hungarian, lobster, sauce. white wine wine sauce. normande and and white normande fish are are scallop sheUs shells of of fish recipe chosen, chosen, scallop According to to the the recipe According grated cheese, or they they are are cheese, or or grated sprinkled with with breadcrumbs breadcrumbs or sp:-inkled glazd. simply simply glazed.

For For all ail these these dishes dishes of of fish fish in scallop scallop shells shells you you can can use use up up left-overs left-overs of of boiled boiled or or braised braised fish fish such such as as perch, perch., cod, ccxl,
coalfish, skate, salmon, salmon, sole, sole, trout trout, turbot, turbot. etc. coalfish, whiting, whiting, hake, hake, skate, Scallop left~overs. coQutLLEs COQUILLES A t,l LA rrdueatnn MNAGRE ScalJop shelh shells of left-overs. Make Make a a border border of of Potato POlato purie puree (se (see POTATOES) POT A TOES) and and garnish garnish with with minced minced left-over left-over pieces pieces of of boiled boiled beef beef blended blended with Sprnkle the the shells sbells with with with Tomato TomalO sauce (se (see SAUCE). Sprinkle breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and brown brown in in the oven. oven.

Left-overs Leftovers in in shells can cao also also be be prepared prepared with with minced minced mutton or veal. vea!. If If minced mnced veal is used, used, blend with with a a thick thick SAUCE). Velouti Bchamel sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). Velolll or Bicharnel Scallop Scallop shelb sheDs of lobster. c@uILLEs COQUILLES DE DE HoMARD HOMARD - Make Make a border with with duchess duchess potatoes and and garnish garnish with with pieces pieces of of lobster, or salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) of lobster lobster wth with Bichamel, Bchamel, Lobster LobSler Sprinkle the or or Mornay Mornay sauce sauce (see (sec SAUCE). SAUCE). Sprinkle the shells shells with with
grated cheese and brown brown the top. Scallop of meat. coquu,les COQUILLES DE DE vIANDES VIANDES - Follow F ollow the the ScaDop shells sbells of bone-marrow. Leftdirections directions given given for for Scallop Sca/lop shells shells of of bone~marrow. Left overs of boiled, braised or roast wast lamb, mutton, mutton, beef beef or or veal veal can be used. used. Scallop Sc III Il op shells of of mussels. coQrtILLEs COQUILLES DE DE MouLEs MOULES - Prepare Prepare for Scallop shells of as as described described in the the recipes recipes for Scallop shel/s of oysters or or of the of soft roes. Scallop shells of roes. You You can also also follow follow any any of the recipes for fish in n scallop shells. dirble. coQrlILLEs shells of oysters la diable. Scallop sheUs COQU1LLES D'HUlTnss D'HuTRES ScaUop and garA r,c, LA oIABIT DIABLE - Make a a border of duchess potatoes potatoes and garand thick and bearded, and oysters, drained and nish with poached oysters, thick Bichamel Bchamel sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE) made with the water in which seasoned with of the oysters have have been been poached, poached, seasoncd with a pinch pncb of the oysters Brown. frid breadcrumbs. Brown. with fried Sprinkle the shells with cayenne. Sprinkle as oysters cooked in this way are often known Shells with oysters known as Oysters d la diable. Oysters D'ttutTnEs coQUILLEs D'HuTRES shells of Scallop sbeDs Scallop of oysters oysters Mornay. Mornay. COQU1LLES garnish potatoes and and garnish of duchess potatoes a border of MoRNAy MORNAY - Make a and Mornay and debearded, poached oysters. debearded, and oysters, drained and with poached Mornay pour butter grated cheese, butter cheese, pour (see SA with grated SAUCE). sauce (sec UCE). Sprinkle with over the shells, and brown. In poultry. COQU1LLES on VOLAILLES vot.,qlrrss - In coQLTILLES DE shells of of poultry. Scdlop sheUs ScaJlop ordinary should be used. principle, only the white meat should used, but in ordinary principle, to use use are served served mainly mainly to shells are these shclls home kitchens, where these poultry can parts of the poultry can be be used. all parts up left-overs, al! used. DE poultry l'allemande. coQlJrLLEs DE I'allemande. COQUILLES of poultry shlls of Scallop sheDs ScaJlop Make a a border border of of duchess A L'ALLEMANDE t'lr,lnulNDE - Make voLATLLE VOLAILLE poultry meat meat and white pollltry garnish with slices of potatos and of white and gamish potatoes (se SA hot oven. oven. a hot SAUCE). Glaze in a Allemande sauce (sec Allemande UCE). Glaze VoLAILLE poultry Monselet. COQUILLES DE VOLAILLE coQUILLES DE shells of poultry Scallop sbeDs Scallop potatoes. Gamish Garnish of duchess duchess potatoes. Make a a border border of MoNsELET - Make MONSELET poultry meat. and hearts and meat, artichoke artichoke hearts white poultry slices of of white with slices with (see SA SAUCE). Mornay sauce sauce (see Mornay UCE). After grated cheese and in the the oven. oven. After and brown in Sprinkle with grated garnish each with 2 2 sUces slices of of each shell shell with the oven, oven, gamish taking out out of of the taking hearts cooked cooked in in sliced artichoke artichoke hearls with sliced trufle aiternating alternating with trume butter. princesse. COQUILLES DE VOLAILLE voLAILLE coQLnLLEs DE ofpoultry shelb of Scallop shells Scallop poultry princesse. pRINcEssE - Make a potatoes. of duchess duchess potatoes. a border of PRINCESSE poultry meat Allemanfu meat and and Allemande of white poultry slices of Garnish with with slices Gamish (see SA SAUCE). sauce (see UCE). sauce put on shell2 sHces slices glaze. Just on each she1l2 serving, put Just before before serving, Do not glaze. in butter. butter. tips cooked cooked in of asparagus asparagus tips a bouquet of truffie and and a of trume poulhy Rossini. DE VOLAILLE VoLAILLE Rossini. COQUILLES coeuILLFs DE Scallop sbel1s shelb of of poultry Scal10p potatoes and Duchess potatoes and brown RossIM - Make Make a a border border of of Duchess ROSSTNI garnish. before adding adding the garnish. before poultry meat, meat, truffies trufles and and with slices slices of of white white poultry Garnish with Garnsh (see SAUCE). SAUCE). ttick Madeira sauce (see thick gras put on shell 1 I slice slice of of foie serving, put on each each shell Just before before serving, Just foie gras trufle. and a a slice slice of of trume. saut6ed in in butter, butter, and sauted pfukled tongue. pouttry with with smoked snoked or or pickled tongue. shells of of poultry Scallop shells Scallop Make a of a border border of VoLAILLE A L'CARLATE r'fcmure - Make coeuILLEs DE DE VOLAILLE COQUILLES

rl

485

HORS.D'(EUVRE HORS-D'UVRE
potatoes and duchess potatoes and brown brown in in the the oven. oven. duchess Garnish with poultry meat, with slices slices of of white white poultry meat, smoked smoked or or Gamish pickled tongue (see SA Allemande sauce tongue and and Allemande sauce (see SAUCE). pickled UCE). just before glaze, but Do not not glaze, blut sprinkle sprinkle the the shells shells just before serving serving Do with chopped chopped tongue. tongue. with Scallop shells shelh of of shrimps.. shrimps. COQlLLES coqur,I,Es DE DE CREVETTES cREvETTEsMake Scallop - Make potatoes. Gamish a border border of of duchess duchess potatoes. Garnish with with a a ragot ragofit of of a shrimps' tails (se SA tails with with Bchamel Bdchamel or or Velout Yelouti sauce sauce (see SAUCE) shrimps' UCE) (see BUTTER, finished with with Shrimp Shrimp bu/ter butter (see BUTTER, Compound Compound finished butters). but/ers). grated cheese, pour meIted Sprinkle with with grated cheese, pour melted butter the butter over over the Sprinkle shells and and brown brown in in the the oven. oven. shells shells of skate Hver Scallop sbeUs of skate liver and ad browo brown butter. butter. COQUlLLES coeurt,t,Es Scallop DE FOIE FoIE DE DE RAIE RAIE AU AU BEURRE BET.JRRE NOIR NorR Make a a border border of of duchess duchess DE - Make potatoes and and brown brown in in the the oven. oven. Garnish Garnish with with slices slices of of potatoes cooked skate skate liveT. liver. cooked pounded parsley, parsley, and Sprinkle with with pounded and a a few few drops drops of lemon lemon Sprinkle juice. At At the potn Brown the la last (see BUTTER, moment pour Brown butter (see BUTTER, juice. st moment Compound but/ers) butters) over over the the shells. shells. Compound Scallop sbeUs shells of polonaise. COQUILLES of skate skate liver liver A la la polonaise. coerJrllrs DE DE ScalJop por"oNArs FoIE DE DE RA nau A LA r.A POLONAISE Dress and garnish as and garnish as directed directed FOIE - Dress for Scallop Scallop shells shelb of ofskate liver and andbrown butter. for skate /iver brown bUller. yolks of Sprinkle with with the the chopped chopped yolks of hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs and and Sprinkle parsley. chopped parsley. chopped Brown fine (see BUTTER. breadcrumbs in fine breadcrumbs in Noisette butter (see BUTTER, Noisette butter Brown Compound bulters) butters) and and sprinkle sprinkle over over the sheJJs. shells. Compound Scallop shells shells of of soft soft roes roes i la la florentine. florentine. COQUILLES DE coerrrllEs DE Scallop LAITANcES A LA rl FLORENTINE rroneNTrNE Make a a border border of of duchess LAITANCES - Make potatoes. Garnish Garnish with with slices slices of soft soft carp rocs roes or hcrring herring roes potatoes. arranged on on a a layer layer ofspinach of spinach cooked cooked in butter, butter, aod and Mornay arranged Mornay (see SA sauce (see gratod cheese and SAUCE). Sprinkle with grated and brown UCE). Sprinkle sauce in the oven. in the oven. Scallop she)1s shelb of sweetbreads. COQUILLES coeurI.r,ns DE Rrs D'AGNBAU Scallop of sweetbreads. DE RIS D'AGN~AU Prepare sweetbreads as as described described in the recipes Prepare with with lambs' lambs' sweetbreads for Scallop shells of bone-marrow shells of or Scal/op Scallop shel/s of brains. for Scallop shells of bone-marrow or Small souffls. soufr6s. pETrrs sourrrfs These are are made made in SmaU PETITS SOUFFLS - These cassolettes all the described in cassolettes from from ail the different different mixtures mixtures described in the section on SOUFFLES. SOUFFLS. section on Small soufrds SmaU souffls I I'am6ricaine. l'amricaine. prnrs PETITS sourFt,fs SOUFFLS A r'.ltvrfnrL'AMRIcArNE the cassolettes with alternate alternate layers CAINE - Fill Fill the cassolelles with layers of of the lhe mixture soffii (see mixture used used for for Lobster Lobs/er soufii sou./ffe or or Spiny lobster lobs/er souffl (see SOUFFLES) and SAt piCOtD. SOUFFLS) and Salpicon Salpicon d l'amiriiaine l'amricaine (see (sec SALPICON). Finish Finish in in the the ordinary ordinary way way as as described described in the the section on SOUFFLES. SOUFFLS. Snall SmaU soufls souffls i I'aurore. l'aurore. pETrrs PETITS sourrrts SOUFFLF..$ A l'.1,(nonn L'AURORE Garnish for Chicken Gamish the the cassoletles cassolelles with with the the mixture mixture for Chicken souffii souffl (see (see SOUFFLE) SOUFFL) and and add add concentrated concenlrated tomato tomato juice. juice. When When the the souffi6s souffls come come out out of of the the oven oven sprinkle sprinkle them them with with the the chopped chopped yolk yolk of of hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs eggs and and chopped chopped parsley. parsley. Small Small crayfish crayfisb soufl6s souffls i Ia la Nantra Nantua I. J. psrrrs PETITS sourrrfs SOUFFLS o'fcnnvrssns D'CREVISSES (A ( la LA NlNrue) NANTUA) - Rub Rub through through a sieve sieve 125 125 g. g. (4 (whiting, (4 oz.) oz.) white white fish fish (whiting, cod cod or or sole) sole) cooked in butter. buller. Add to to this this pur6e pure l| Hdl. dl. Q (~ pint, pint, 3 ~ c.rp) cup) crayfish crayfish puree pure blended blended with with thick thick Bdchamel Bchamel sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Season Season with with a a little little cayenne. cayenne. Blend Blend with with 3 3 egg egg yolks yolks and, and, at at the the last last minute, minute, work work 3 3 stifry stiffly beaten beaten egg egg whites wbites into into the the mixture. mixture. perrrs Small SmaU crayfish crayfish souffies souffls I la la Nantua Nantua II. II. PETITS sourrrfs SOUFFLS o'EcnnvtssEs D'CREVISSES (i, ( r.l, LA NlNrul) NANTUA) - Prepare Prepare the the mixture mixture as as describod described in in the the preceding precedng recipe. recipe. When il into into the the cassolettes cassolettes afian5e arrange alternate alternate When putting putting it layers layers of of salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) of of crayfish crayfish tails tails with with trufres. truffles. Finish Finish as as described described in in the the preceding preceding recipe. reepe. Small Sm.all crayfish crayfish soufles souffls with with Parmesan. Parmesan. pETrrs PETITS sourrrfs SOUFFLS p'fcnevlssrs D'CREVISSES AU AU IARMESAN PARMESAN - Fill Fill the the cassolettes cassolettes with with a a layer layer of of the the mixture mixture used used for for Parmesmt Parmesan soffii souffle (see (see SOUFFLE). SOUFFL). On On this this put put IJ tablespoon tablespoon Crayfish Crayfish tail tail ragofit ragot d li la la Nantua Nantua (se (sec CRAYFISH). of Parmesan Parmesan CRA YFISH). Cover Cover with with another another layer layer of soufr6 souffl mixture. mixture. Finish Finish as as described described in in the the preceding preceding recipes. recipcs.
486 486

prrrrs SOUFFLS Small oyster oyster souffls i la la cancalalse. souffies cancalaise. PETITS lux sourrrrs AUX Small ons i LA LA CANCALAISE cANcALArsp -- Poach Poach 12 12 oysters oysters in in their their DITS juice. Drain. own juice. Drain, and and dry dry in in a a clotho cloth. own Boil down (t pint, down the the cooking cooking stock stock and pint, - and add add lt l| dl. dl. (l cup) Boil 3 cup) (see SAUCE). thick Bchamel Bdchamel sauce sauce (sec SAUCE). Strain, Strain, and and blend blend with with thick yolks. Add 3 egg egg yolks. Add the the oysters oysters cut cut in in two two and and the the beaten beaten egg egg 3 whites. whites. Finish as preceding recipes. as described described in in the the preceding recipes. Finish pETrrs SOUFFLts pRrNprircesse. PETITS Small souffls souflds i la la princesse. sourrrfs A LA r-q, PRINSmal] cEssr Fill the the cassolelles cassolettes with with altemate alternate layers layers of of the the mixmixCESSE - Fll (see SOUFFLE) ture used used for for Chicken Chicken sou./ff souffii (see SOUFFLE) and and a salpicon a salpicon ture of truffies truffes and and asparagus asparagus tips. tips. of Finish as preceding recipes. as described described in in the the preceding Finish pETrrs SOUFFLS Small soft soft roe roe souffls. soufres. PETITS sourrrfs DE DE LAITANCES LArrANcEs SmaU drain the soft soft roe of of carp carp or or other other fish. fish. Rub Rub Poach, cool and drain g oz.) fine sieve. g. (4 a fine sieve. To To each each 125 125 g. pur6e add oz.) of this this pure add through a (+ pint, l+ dl. dl. (i (se,e SA cup) thick Bchamel Bichamel sauce sauce (sec SAUCE). It UCE). t cup) egg yolks and and add add the the 3 beaten egg egg whites. whites. Blend with 3 egg Finish as described preceding recipes. described in in the preceding Finish $rbrics - Sirnilar Similar to to small small croquettes croquettes except that that they they are are Subricsnot dipped dipped in egg egg and breadcrumbs and fried in in deep fat, but but are cooked cooked n in bulter butter in pan. For in a a shallow shallow pan. For their their general are preparation see see SUBRICS. SUBRICS. preparation Brain and and bone-marrow bone-marrow subrics. srbrics. SUBRICS suBRIcs DE! DE CERVELLE. cERVELLE, Brain D'AMouRETrss Poach a a calf's calf's brain, brain, drain. drain, and and cut cut into n'AMOURETTES - Poach a terrine. tenine. large dice. Put into a (3 tablespoons, Add t dl. (3 tablespoons, scant scant t cup) Allemande or Add + dl. * cup) (se, SAUCE). Bdcharnel sauce (see SAUCE), and and 1 I egg egg beaten beaten as as for for an Bchamel sauce Season with with salt, salt, pepper and and nutmeg. nutmeg. Mix Mix careomelette. Season fully so as not to crush the brain. brain. Finish as described under SUBRICS. Serve with (see SA with Tomato sauce (see SAUCE). SUBRICS. UCE). Instead of calCs calf's brain equivalent of sheep or ox ] nstead of brain an equi valent amount of be used. brains can he Subrics made of sweetbreads and are preSubrics and bone-marrow bone-marrow are pared pared in the same manner. Brain srbrics I I'italienne. suBRrcs DE DE CERVELLE cERvELLE A Brain subrics l'italienne. SUBRtCS L'ITALENNE eggs beaten as L'iTALfENNE - Dice the brains and blend blend with wth 2 2 eggs for an omelette, rnixed mixed with for an with I J tablespoon flour flour seasoned seasoned with pepper pepper and nutmeg. Add 2 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) grated grated Parmesan Parmesan Add 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 cheese. Serve with cheese. Finish Finsh as as described under under SUBRICS. Serve Tomato Tomalo sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Snbrics Subrics i la la florentine - Make a a preparation for subrics subrics with with spinach and finish 6nish off off with 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz., I ! cup) grated Parmesan Parmesan cheese. cheese. Finish Finish as as described described under SUBRICS. SUBRICS. Subrics Subdcs of goose goose liver. susnrcs SUBRIC'l DE DE ForE FOrE cRAs GRAS - Put Put 50 g. (2 (2 oz.,* oz.,! c,rp) cup) sifted siftcd flour floue into a bowl. bowl. Add I l egg egg beaten as for an omelette, and and2 2 or or 3 3 tablespoons tablespoons thick thick cream. cream. Season Season with witb salt and pepper, pepper, and mix. Cook Cook 250 g. (9 (9 oz.) goose goose liver. Cool and dice. Mix Mix carecarefully fully into into the the above above preparation. preparation. Finish Finish as as described under under SUBRICS. Serve with with PdriPerigueux (see SAUCE). SA UCE). gueux sauce sauce (see Subrics Subrics I la la menaglre menagre - Dice Dice 250 g. g. (9 o2.,2 oz., 2 cups) cold cold braised braised or or boiled boilcd beef. bcef. Add Add I 1 tablespoon tablespoon chopped onion onion cooked cooked in in butter butter until until very very soft, soft, and and I 1 tablespoon tablespoon chopped chopped parsley. parsley. Blend Blend this this mixture mixture with with 2 2 beaten beaten eggs and and I 1 tablespoon tablespoon flour. flouL Season Season with with salt, salt, pepper pepper and and nutmeg. nutmeg. Mix Mi", well. weil. Finish Finish as as describod described under under SUBRICS. SUBRICS. Subrics Subrics can can be be prepared prepared in in the the same sarne way, way. using using all ail kinds kinds of of cold cold cooked cooked meat rneat and and fish. 6sh. Pultry Poultry liver Iiver grbrics. subrics. suBRrcs SUBRICS DE DE ForEs FOIES DE DE voLATLLE VOLAILLE - Cook Cook chicken chicken (or (or other other poultry) poultry) liver liver in butter. butter. Cool Cool and and dice. dice. Blend Blend with2 with 2 beaten beaten eggs, eggs, I1tablespoon tablespoon flour, flour, salt, salt, pepper pepper and and nutmeg. nutmeg. Finish Finish as as described described under under SUBRICS. SUBRICS.
HulTREs, HutTRES,

HORS.D'(EUVRE HORS-D'UVRE
Rice Rice srbrics subrics i la la pi6montaise. pimontaise. swntcs SUBRICS DE DE RIz RIZ A m LA prfuottPIMONrAIm TA1SE - Blend Blend 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz. oz. l] Hcups) cheese cheese risotto risotto with with 2 2 beaten beaten eggs. eggs. Add Add I1to to 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons lean, chopped chopped ham, ham, and and
(see

mix. mile. Finish Finish the the subrics subrics in in the the usual usual manner. manner. Serve Serve with with Tomato Tomalo sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Semolina Semoli.na subrics. subrics. sLJBRIcs SUBRICS DE Dr; sEMouLE SEMOULE - Proceed Proceed as as for for Rice Rice subrics subrics d Ia la piimonlaise, pmonlaise, using using semolina semolina cooked cooked in in a a clear stock or or in in milk. milk. Omit Omit the the chopped chopped ham, ham, if if desired. d~ired. cJear stock Sweetbread Sweetbread srbrics. subrics. suBRIcs SUBRICS DE DE RIs RlS DE DE vEAU, VEAU, D'AGNEAU n'AGNEAU Proceed Proceed as as described described for for Brain Brain subrics, subrics, using using a a salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) of of sweetbreads. sweetbreads. Talnouse Talmouse - This This can be he made made in many many different different ways ways but but it it should always always have have cheese checs.e as a basis. basis. Line tartlel tins tins with with Fine Fine linW lining paste(see pasle (see DOUGH) DOUGB) Line fluted fluted tartlet and and fill fil! with whatever whatever cheese chccse preparation preparation is is given given in in the recipe recipe chosen. chosen. Brush with with egg, egg, sprinkle sprinkle with with Gruydre Gruyre cheese, cheese. dce, and and bake bake in a slow oven. oven. Take tbe the talmouses out oui of of the the dice, tins. tins. Talmouses which which have Gougire Gougre batter baller (see (sec DOUGH) DOUGH) as a a basis basis are often filled fled with with a cream cheese cheese mixture after after they are cooked. Talmouses Talmouses A I'ancienne J'ancienne - Roll RoU out out some sorne left-over puff puff pastry to ta a thickness of 5 mm. (+ inch). Cut into squares of of 6 cm. cm. (2t (21 inches). inches). Coat with a thin layer of the mixture ml."<ture used for Chieese Cheese soffi souffl (see SOUFFLE). on each talmouse. Put very small dice of Gruydre cheese on corners so Lift Lift its four four corners so as to enclose the fiIling. filling. Put Put these turnturnsheet. Bake overs on a baking baking sheel. Bakc in a slow oven. overs i la Talmouses la pttissilre - Line Line fluted fluted tartlet tartlet tins tins with wilh Talnouses with a a chees.e chee* Chou Fine Fine lining paste (s@ DOUGH). Fill Fil! with Brush over p as t e (see, DOU GH) piped through a forcing-bag. Brushover paste(see and with egg, sprinkle with very small dice of Gruydre cheese and oven. bake in a slow aven. fill the the choux tins, and and fil! their tins. out of of their talmouses out Take the Take the lalmouses piped through a forcing-bag. a forcing-bag. mixture pped a cream cheese mixture with Ci

SAUCE) on on the the mushrooms. mushrooms. Argenturil tartlets. tartlets. TARTELETTEs ARGENTEUTL ARGENTEUIL - Fill Fil! with with ChicEm purie pure (see (see PUREE). Cover Cover with with asparagus asparagus tips tips cooked cooked in in butter. butter. Beatrix Beatri.x tartlets tartlet ... TARTELETTEs TARTELETTES sflrRx BATRIX - Garnish Garnish with with Mushroom purie (see (see PUREE). PURE). Make Make a a border border of of shrimps. Put a poached oyster oyster on on each each tartlet. tartlet. Cover Cover with wilh Normandc Norman/Y> sauce SA UCE). sauce (see SAUCE). Cxnied Curried tartlets. tartlets. TARTELETTEs TARTELETTES A I'tNplENNn L'iNDIENNE - Fill Fill with with a a prawn ragofrt made with with cuffy. Put Put I 1 teaspoon tcaspoon Rice Rice d I'inl'inragot made dienru (see RICE) on on each each tartlet. (sec RICE) Tartlets i l'6coss8ise. l'cossaise. TARTELETTES TARTELETTES A r'fcosslts L'COSSAISE - GarGarnish nish with with Salmon Salmon purie pure (see (see PUREE). PURE). Cover Cover with with Mornay Mornay sauce sauce (see (sec SAUCE). SA UCE). Sprinkle Sprinkle with with grated cheese, cheese, and and brown. brown. Put Put a a piece of of sliced sliced truffie trurne on on each tartlet. tartlet. Tartlets i la la japonaise. TARTELETTES TARTELETTES A r"l LA r.lpopusn JAPONAISE - Fill Fil) with with Chinese Ch.inese artichdkes with with cream. cream. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with fried fried through in breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. Warm Wannthrough in the the oven. oven. Metternich Mertemicb tartlets. tartlets. TARTELETTES TARTELETTES METTERNIcS METTERNICH - Garnish Garnish with with a a salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) of of sweetbreads sweelbreads and and truffies truffles seasoned seasoned with with paprika. paprika. Put Put a a small small slice slice of of calf's calf's brain brain on on each each tartlet. tartlet. wth Hungariot Cover Cover with Hungarian. sauce sauce (see (sec SAUCE). SA UCE). Tartlets Tartlets i la la mirepoil. mirepoix. rlnrsrsmns TARTELETTES A r,l LA unspox MIREPOIX - Fill Fil! a with wth a a mirepoix (q.v.) (q.v.) of of vegetables cooked cooked in in butter butter with with a salpicon salpicon of ham harn blended blended with rich rich veal veal gravy. Cover Cover with with (see FORCEMEATS). a a thin thin layer layer of of Chicken Chicken forcemeat forcemea/ (sec Cook Cook in in the the oven. oven. TARTELETTEs PRINTANIA Printania Printania tartlets. tartlets. TARTELETTES PRINTANlA - Fill Fill with with Sprinkle with cream. Sprinkle morels in in cream. with fried fried breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. Warm Wann and then through through in in the the oven oven and then put put I 1 teaspoon teaspooD asparagus asparagus tips tips tartlet. cooked cooked in butter butter on on each each tartlet. with a a salpicon salpicon Fill with nfcIN,c. TARTELETTEs RGINA Regina tarttets. - Fi!! tliIrtlets. TARTELEl"TES Sprinkle with with cream. cream. Sprinkle and truffies of mushrooms and of truffies with with fried fried put a and then then put a oven and through in breadcrumbs. Warm Warm through in the the oven each on each in butter saut6ed in of sweetbread sweetbread sauted slice of very small small slice butter on very tartlet. tart/et.

DE SAINT-DENIS sAINT-DENIS TALMous$ DE talmouses. TALMOUSES Saint-Denis talmouses. Saint-Denis

1747' Amsterdam 1747. from Cuisinier Cuisinier gascon, Amsterdam Recipe from preparation of cream a rlrf'rI,;j,.,.IH'In .'Make Make ord nary puff pastry; , take a ordinary work it thoroughly with your hands; cheese and drain well; ; wark will absorb, a grain of salt, as the the cheese will add as as many eggs as add put a a layer well mixed, put is aU all wc]) when this is flour; when and a a pinch of flaur; and puff pastry pastry and fold and fold rolled-out puff on the rolled-out mixture on of the cheese mixture oven and and in the the aven bake in over with egg, egg, bake Brush over over both layers. Brush serve.' quiche. to a a chees.e cheese quiche. very similar similar to is very kind of talmouse is of talmouse This kind This the Prepare the fpmmos- Prepare Aux PINARDSTALMousEs AUX Spinach talmouses. tahnouss. TALMOUSES Spmach previorrs recipes and fill and fil! of the the previous in any any of describod in talmouses as as described talmouses grated (see SOUFFL) to which grated SOUFFLE) la soufii (see them with with a a Spinach Spinach souffle them added. cheese has been been added. cheese preceding recipes. recipes. the precedng described in in the as descrbed Finish the the talmouses talmouses as Finish preparaThe preparacARNIEs -- The TARTELEmES Tartlets, Tart 1ets, garnished. T ARTILEITES GARN1ES from for barquet/es, as for barquettes, from is the the same same as tartlets is tion of of garnished tartlets tion can be be These lartlets tartlets can in their their shape. These only in differ only which they di.ffer which made from from usually made are usually prepared from ail kinds ofdoughs of doughs but are all kiods prepared (see DOUGH). DOUGH). Fine lining lining paste (sec Fine for described for moulds as described tartlet mou fluted tartlet some round round or or fluted Line some Line Ids as Take them them blind. Take (see above). tartlets blind. Bake the the tartlets Barquettes (sec above). Bake Nlll'IJU.plI/'.t in the the chosen chosen recipe. finish as as descrihed described in and finish out of their their tins tins and given in recipes which in the the recipes fillings given the fillings In addition to the addition to can similar dishes dishes cau given for and similar for barquettes barquettes and follow, ail all those those given follow, for tartlets. tartlets. be used used for be Coat the the soRrr. -- Coat TARTELETTES,lcNb Agnes Sorel Sorel tartlets. tardets. TARTELETTES AGNS SOREL A.gnes (see purde (see layer of of Chicken Chicken pure with a a layer bottom of of the the tartlets tartlets with very sma!! small slices slices of of of very with aa border border of PUREE). Surround Surround with pickled or tongue. Put Put aa or smoked smoked tangue. of chickcn and pickled breast of chicken and breast middle. head in in the the middle. mushroom head mushroom sauce little A Allemande Pour aa little in the oven. Pour Heat through the oven. through in Heat lIemonde .wuce 487 487

name cavers covers cARNIEs-This garnished. TIMBALES TIMBALES GARNIESTimbales, gamished. This name in shape shape but but similar in are aU all similar which are dishes which small dishes a variety variety of small a differ. ingredients differ. their ingredients their motifs of cif with tiny tiny motifs Decorate wtb moulds. Decorate dariole moulds. Use butlered buttered dariole Use Alternatively, sprinkle ham. Altematively, lean ham. or lean scarlet tongue or truffie, scarlet truffte, Line with with a a layer of tongue. Line or chopped tongue. with choppe<! chopped truffie or with suitable. anything.else suitable. poultry, fish or or aoything.else of poultry, fine forcemeal forcemeat of fine (q.v.) prepared prepared cold salpicon salpicon (q.v.) a cold with a middle with Fill the the middle FiJI garnish with with a a the garnish Cover the recipe selected. selected. Cover the recipe to the according .,,.,/',, .. ..-1 .... ,.,. to the for lining lining the chosen for as the the one one chosen forcemeat as same forcemeat layer of the same pan of in a a pan of oven, standing in in the the aven, Cook in mould. of the the mou inside of Id. Cook for a a few few in the the moulds for Leave in l8 minutes. minutes. Leave 15 to to 18 for 15 water, for dariole or six-sided six-sided dariole Cylindrical or out. Cylindrical taking out. minutes before before taking minutes can be be used. used. moulds cao moulds a sauce sauce in in with a masked with often masked are often timbales are Garnished timbales Garnished sauce can can be be or the the sauce ingredient; or the main main ingredenl; with the character with character cro0tes of served on on crotes of be served timbales can can be These timbales separately. These served separately. served hearts. artichoke hearts. on artichoke or on in butter, butter, or fried in bread fried bread smalltimba/escan be which follow, follow, smalJ recipes which from the the recipes Apart fram Apart timbales can be and Croquettes and as Barque/les, Barquettes, Croquetles way as garnished in same way in the the same garnished (see above). above). Croustades (see Croustades with moulds with the buttered buttered moulds Decorate the I'rmiral -- Decorate Timbales l'amiral Timbales (see FORCEFORCEFish forcemeat fine Fish line with with fine and Une trufres and forcemeat (soc truffles MEATS). MEATS). and (q.v.) of oysters and tails, oysters of crayfisb crayfish tails, salpicon (q.v.) Fill with with aa salpicon Fil! (se SAUCE) on based on SAUCE) based sauce (see Velouti sauce wth Velout blended with truffies blended truffles (see BUTTER, butter (s Crayfish bu/ter with Crayfish finished with stock and and finished fish stock fish fish farcemeat, forcemeat, poach, with the the fish Cover with butters\. Cover Compound bUl/ers). Compound (seeSAUCE). SAUCE). sauce (sec Normande sauce serve wilh with Normande and serve and the Sprinkle the BAGRATIoN - Sprinkle TIMBALEs BAGRATION timbales. TIMBALES Bagration timbales.. Bagration and chopped, choppod, trufres and chopped truffies with chopped moulds with buttered moulds bultered fine Chicken Chicken with aa fine Line them thern with pickled or tongue. Une or smoked smoked tongue. pickled

HORSE HORSE BUTCHERY BUTCHER y

forcemeat (see (see FORCEMEATS). FORCEMEATS). Fill Fil! with diced macaroni, macaroni, forcemeat blended blendcd with with cream, crcam, to to which which a a salpicon of of truffies trumes and chopped choppcd tongue tongue has has been been added. added. Finish Finish in the usual usual way way and serve serve with SuprAme Suprme sauce sauce (sw (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Beauvilliers Beauvilliers timbales. timbales. TTMBALES TIMBALES BEALTwLLTERS BEAUVILLIER.<; - Line buttered buttered moulds mou Ids with with an an unsweetened unsweetened Brioche dough dough (see (see DOUGH). DOUGH). Bake Bake and leave leave to cool. Empty Empty the the brioches, brioches, leaving leaving a crust 5 mm. (f (t inch) thick. Warm breast Warm slightly slightly in in the the oven. oyen. Fill Fill them them with with a a salpicon salpicon of ofbreast of of chicken chicken and truffies trumes blended blended with Allemande Allemande sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Put a bouquet bouquet of of asparagus asparagus tips tips cooked in in butter on on each each timbale. timbale. Timbales l'6picurienne l'picurienne - Sprinkle the the buttered buttered moulds moulds with breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and line line them them with a layer layer of of rice, rice, cooked in which chopped added. This in meat meat stock, stock, to towhich chopped truffies trumes have have been beenadded. This layer layer should should cover coyer the the sides of the the moulds moulds evenly and be be about about 5 mm. (* (t inch) inch) thick. thick. Fill Fill with with a a salpicon salpicon of of lambs' lambs' sweetbreads, sweetbreads, truffies trumes and and scarlet scarlet tongue tongue blended blended with Mushroom Mushroom purrie pure (see (see PUREE). PURE). Cover Coyer the the salpicon salpicon with with a layer layer of of the the rice rice cooked in in meat meat stock. Cook these these small timbales timbales in in the the oven oven for 8 8 minutes. minutes. Leave Leave them them to to settle set Ile a little little before before turning turning out. Serve Serve with with Tomato TomalO sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE). SA UCE). Timbales Timbales Il la la fermilre fermire - Butter Butter the the moulds moulds and coat with with a a brunoise brunoise (q.v.) (g.v.) of of vegetables vegetables cookod cooked in in butter. butter. Line Line with with a a thin lhin layer layer of of forcemeat, forcemeat, and fill fill with with a macidoine macdoine (q.v.) (g.v.) of vegetables vegetables mixed mixed with with thick thick Bichamel Bchamel sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE). SA UCE). Serve emi-g lace sauce Serve with with a a light light D Demi-glace sauce (se, (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Timbales Timbales Il la la milanaise milanaise - Butter Butler the the moulds moulds and and line line with with macaroni macaroni cooked cooked in in water, water, drained drained and and dried. dried. Lay Lay the the macaroni macaroni in a a spiral shape shape against against the the sides sides of of the the moulds. moulds. Cover Cover them them with with a a thin thin layer layer of of fine fine Chicken Chicken or or Veal Veal forceforcemeat meat (see (see FORCEMEATS). FORCEMEATS). Fill Fil! with with a a salpicon salpicon of ofpickled pickled or or smoked smoked tongue, tongue, lean lean ham, ham, truffies truffles and and mushrooms, mushrooms, blended blended with with rich rich tomato-flavoured tomalo-fiavoured (se SAUCE). Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce(see SA UCE). Servewith Serve with tomato-flavoured tomato-fiavoured demi-glace demi-glace sauce. sauce. Timbales Timbales i Il la la Montrouge Montrouge - Decorate Decoratc the Ihe buttered buttered moulds mou Ids with lean ham ham and and line line with with fine fine Chickm Chicken forcemeat forcemeat (se (sec with lean FORCEMEATS). FORCEMEATS). Garnish Garnish witha with a salpicon salpicon of of chicken chicken mixed mixed with Mushroom Mushroom purie pure (see (see PUREE). PURE). Serve Serve with Allemande Allemande sauce (see SAUCE). SA UCE). sauce (see Timbales Timbales il Il la la nantuatienne nantuatiemre - Decorate Deco ra te buttered butlered moulds mou Ids with Line them and truffies. truffles.Line them with with a a fine Fish Fish with crayfish crayfish tails tails and (see FORCEMEATS) FORCEM EATS) with with Crayfish Crayfish butter bwter (see (sec forcemeat (see forcemeat BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). bUl/ers). Fill FiJI with with crayfish crayfish pur6e pure (see (sec PUREE, PURE, Shrimp Shrimp purie) pure) to to which which a a salpicon salpicon of of crayfish crayfish tails tails has added. Serve Serve with with Nantua Nantua sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE). SA UCE). has been been added. Timbales Timbales I Il h la pi6montaise pimontaise - Decorate Decorate the the buttered buttered moulds moulds with with pickled pickled or or smoked smoked tongue longue and and truffies trumes cut cut into into very very small risotto made made with with saffron, saffron, to to which which a a fine fine small dice. dice. Fill FiJI with with risotto julienne julienne (q.v.) (g.v.) of of white white truffies truffies has has been been added. added. Serve Serve with with Tomato Tomato sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Timbales Timbales I Il la la polonaise polonaise - Butter Butter the the moulds moulds and and line tine with with strips strips cut cut from from thin thin unsweetened unsweetened pancakes pancakes (crdpes). (crpes). Add Add a a light of Chickenforcemeat Chicken forcemeat (see (see FORCEMEATS) FORCEMEATS) with with light layer layer of cream. cream. Fill Fill with with a a puree pure of of brains brains to to which which chopped chopped truffies trumes have have been been added. added. Serve Serve with with Allemande Allemande sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Timbales Timbales la la printanilre printanire Cook Cook carrots, carrots, turnips turnips and and French French beans. beans. Cool, Cool, and and cut eut into into short short narrow narrow strips. strips. Decorate Decorate the the buttered buttered moulds rnoulds with with these. these. Line Line with with a a thin thin coating r c eme at (see ne I le fo coating of of Que Quenelle forcemeat (see FORCEMEATS). FORCEMEATS). Fill daine of vegetables blended c hame I Fill with with a a macd macdoine ofvegetables blended with with Bi Bchamel sauce (sec SAUCE). SAUCE). Serve Serve with with a a light Jight Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see (see sauce (see sAUCE). SAUCE). Timbales Timbales iIl la la Rossini Rossini - Decorate Decorate the the buttered buttered moulds moulds with with trufres trumes and and line line them them with with fine fine Chickm Chicken or or Veal Vealforcemeat forcemeat (see (see FORCEMEATS). FORCEMEATS).

Fill with a salpicon salpicon of offoie foie gras and truffies trumes blended blended with a rich Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce (see SAUCE). Serve with demi-glace demi-glace sauce sauce flavortred flavourcd with witb trufle trume essence. essence. Timbales Timbales t Il la la Saint-Hubert - Decorate Decorate the the buttered bultered moulds moulds with with chopped chopped trufres trumes and and chopped, chopped, pickled pickled or smoked tongue, tongue, and and line line them them with Game forcemeat forcemeat (see (see FORCEMEAT). FORCEMEA T). Fill Fill with a a salpicon salpicon of of game to to which which truffies trumes and mushrooms mushrooms have have been bcen added. added. Blend Blend with DemiDemiglace glace sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SA UCE) based based on on concentrated concentrated game game stock. Serve with with demi-glace demi-glace sauce sauce basd based on concentrated game game
stock. Polish valesniki. vALESNIKIS VALESNIKIS poloNArs POLONAIS - To 125 125 g. (4 oz., oz., Polish add 125 t cup) white white pressed pressed cream cheese, add 125 g. (4 oz., oz., * i cup) cup) well-softened well-soflened butter. butter. Season with with salt, pepper pepper and and grated nutmeg. nutmeg. Add I 1 egg egg and mix mix well. weil. Divide Divide into into portions portions of of 50 50 to to 75 75 g. (2 to to 3 3 oz.). oz.). Put Put each portion portion on on a small, thin, thin, unsweetened unsweetened pancake pancake @rApe). (crpe). Fold over and and dip in butter. butter. Deep-fry Deep-fry in in very very hot hot fat, fat, drain, and sprinkle sprinkle with with fine fine salt. Garnish Gamish with with fried fried parsley. parsley. Lithuanian Lithuaman vareniki. vareniki. vlnfNxn VARNIKlS LrruANrnl.rs LITUANIENS - Chop Chop a a large finely and cook in butter. butter. When When it has has turned turned a a large onion finely golden golden colour colom add add 125 g. g. (4 (4 oz.) oz.) raw raw fillet fillel of of beef beefand and 125 g. (4 (4 oz.) raw, raw, finely finely chopped beef beef kidney kidney fat. Season Season with with salt, salt, pepper pepper and and nutmeg. nutmeg. Brown Brown the the meat, meat, blend blend with with 2 tablespoons spoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) thick thick Bicharnel Bchamel sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Add Add I 1 tablespoon tabJespoon choppd chopped parsley. parsley. Make Make a a noodle noodle paste paste (see (sec NOODLES, NOODLES, Fresh Fresh noodles). noodles). Cut into 6 cm. into squares squares of of6 cm. (2f (2i inches) inches) and and put put in in the Ihe middle middle of of each each square square a portion portion of of the the above above mixture mixture as as for for ravioli. ravioli. Poach Poach these vareniki vareniki in in salted boiling boiling water water for 15 15 to to 18 18 minutes. minutes. Drain, Drain, put put in in a a dish dish and and sprinkle sprinkle with with melted melled butter. butter.

HORSE HORSE BLICIIERY. BUT CHERY. rnppopuAclE HIPPOPHAGIE

horses horses for for human human consumption. consumption. Horseflesh, Horseflesh, forbidden forbidden in in Mosaic Mosaic law, law, was was eaten eaten from from time time immemorial immemorial in in Tartary Tartary and and northern northern lands. lands. For For centuries centuries it it has has been been the the principal principal food food of of the the Gaucho Gaucho Indians Indians of of South South

The The slaughter slaughter of of

America. America. For For a a very very long long time time the the Teutons, Teutons, too, 100, lived lived on on horsemeat, horsemeat, and and continued continued to to do do so so until until their their conversion conversion to to Christianity. Christianity. The The people people of of Paris Paris have have always always eaten eaten horsemeat, horsemeat, in in spite spi te of of numerous numerous eighteenth-century eighteenth-century police police ordinances ordinances forbidforbidding ding its ils sale sale in in the the hope hope of of 'preventing 'preventing those those diseases diseases which which the the consumption consumption of of such su ch meat meat cannot cannot fail fail to to induce'. induce'. In In spite spi te of of the the fact fact that that horsemeat horsemeat was was in in use use during during the the critical critical revolutionary revolutionary period, period, the the order order prohibiting prohibiting its its sale sale was was rereenacted enacted in in 1803, 1803, and and again aga in in in l8ll. 1811. There There followed followed special special orders orders permitting perrnitting the the use use of of horsehorsemeat meat as as animal animal food, food, especially especiaJly for for the the animals animaIs in in the the zoo. zoo. The The interdict interdict was was finally finally revoked revoked about about 1830. 1830. This This followed followed reports reports by by Parmentier Parmentier and and Parent-Duchatelet, Parent-Duchatelet. arising arising out out of of the the publicly publicly expressed expressed views views of of Baron Baron Larrey, Larrey, who who had had used used horsemeat horsemeat extensively extensively to to feed feed his his wounded wounded men men during during the the Napoleonic Napoleonic wars. wars. After After the the battle battle of of Eylau, Eylau, being being entirely entirely cut cut off off from from supplies supplies on on the the Isle Isle of of Lobau, Lobau, he he made made soup soup of of it it in in the the breastplates of of the the dismounted dismounted cavalry, cavalry, and and seasoned seasoned it it with with breastplates gunpowder gunpowder in in place place of of salt. salt. More More provident provident than than the the rest, rest, he he had had kept kept a a little little salt salt for for himself, himself, and and was was thus thus able able to to invite invite Marshall Marshall Mass6na Massna to to share share his his hotpot. hOlpol. At At the the instigation instigation of of Geoffrey-Saint-Hilaire, Geoffrey-Saint-Hilaire, there there folfollowed propaganda campaign campaign in in favour Cavour of of horsemeat. horsemeat. This This lowed a a propaganda was was crowned crowned with with success success when when on on 6 6 February February 1865, 1865, a a horsemeat horsemeat banquet banquet was was held held at at the the Grand Grand Hotel. Hote!. In In the the following following year, year, on on 9 9 July, July, another another horsemeat horsemeat banquet banquet took took place place at at the the establishment establishment of of Lemardelay, Lemardelay, a a Paris Paris horse horse butcher. butcher. Since then, then, horsemeat horsemeat has has become become more more and and more more popupopuSince
488 488

HYSSOP
lar, lar, and the the number number of of horse horse butchers butchers has has greatly greatly increased. increased. A variety of of recipes recipes for beef beef (q.v.) (q.v.) can be be used used for horsehorsemeat. meal.

potch. potch. (See (See OFFAL OFFAL or or VARIETY VARIETY MEATS, MEATS, Oxtail Oxlail en en
hochepot). hochepot).

The The French French hochepot hochepot may may be be derived derived from from the the verb verb

HORSE CHESTNUT. CHESTNlJT. HORSE

MARRoN MARRON D'INDE - Seed Seed fruit, fruit. very

ri ch in starch. Once Once the acid has has been been extracted from l'rom it, the the rich can be be made into flour suitable for human human horse chestnut can consumption. consumption.

HORSE PARSLEY. MACERoN MACERON - Herbaceous plant plant of the strong aromatic aromatic umbelliferous group. group. This This herb herb has has a a strong umbelliferous fragrance similar to that that of parsley. It grows wild wild by the especially in cool and shady shady places. roadside and in ditches, especially corn mon horse horse parsley parsley is fairly prolific pralific in the south of of The common
this plant former times, the root root of ofthis plant was eaten. The France. In former as a lcaves of the horse parsley are used in cooking as tender leaves substitute for parsley. parsley. substitute

HORSERADISH. HORSERADISH. nlnonr RAIFORT - Plant originating 06ginating in the East, East, growing growing both wild and cultivated. cultivated. Its 115 cylindrical root, root, brown sharp and piqirant outside, white inside, has a sharp piquant flavour and a as a condivery penetrating penetrating smell. This root is used grated as condicalled favourite in in Germany Germany (where it it is is cal/ed a great favourite ment. It is a of dishes. accompanies a wide range of 'German mustard') mustard') and accompanies butters. Compound huI/ers. BUTTER, Compound Horseradish butter - See BUTTER, clNlpfs DE i I'anglaise. Canaps horseradish l'anglaise. CANAPS DE RAIFoRT RAIFORT Canapes of horseradish slices of of black bread with butter r'ANcr^lls L'ANGLAISE A - Spread thin slices chives have and chopped chives to which which English mustard and have been English mustard to and surround with a added. added. Cover with grated horseradish and hard-boiled egg yolks. border of chopped, hard-boiled a root nApf and peel a RAIFoRT RP Grated horseradish. RAIFORT - Wash and an horshorseradish. Grate on on a a cheese-grater. Serve in an of horseradisb. d'uuvre dish as aceompaniment accompaniment to boiled meat or cold meat. d'uvre roeal. AU RAfFOR RAIFoRT sAUcE Albert sauce (hot). SA Horseradish Horseradish sauce or Albert UCE AU T grated horseradish 4 teaspoons DITE teaspoons grated DIrE ALBERT-SAUCE ALBERT-sAUcE - Cook 4 Add 21 2t dl. dl. ($ pinto pint, scant cup) white white consomm. consomm6. Add scant cup) in 2 2 dl. dl. in (see SA (scant 1 generous cup) SAUCE). cup) Buller Butter sauce II (seant Il (sec UCE). I pint, generous yolks. Add Add 1 I teaBind with with 2 2 egg egg yolks. sieve. Sind Boil down and and sieve. Boil down spoon mustard blended with 2 teaspoons wine vinegar. Serve with boiled or braised beef. grated RAIFoRT sAUcE AU RAIFORT Horseradish sauce (cold). SAUCE - Mix grated and squeezed horseradish with breadcrumbs soaked in milk and cream and and Add thick thick cream sugar. Add and sugar. with salt salt and dry. dry. Season Season with vinegar.
jewel of hospital - a jewel of HOSPICE DE BEAUNE - The Beaune hospitalRolin, Nicolas Rolin. 1443 by Nicolas was founded in 1443 Gothic architecture - was Bon. chancellor to the Duke of Burgundy, Philippe le Boo. is the result result of The vinicultural district district called the Hospices is in is situated in charitable charitable donations donations made to the hospital, and is de Beaune. C6te de one of of the best regions of the Cte Hospices wines wines lakes takes public auction the Hospices auction of of the The Camous famous public The all over over the world, come from aU place every every November. Buyers come honour-bound to themselves honour-bound wiliJe while restaurateurs consider themselves although 'Hospice because allhough vat of of Hospices wine because purchase a a vat contr6lie,the appellation contrle, not boast special appellation Beaune'does boasta de does nol a special the de Beaune' lustre. gives the added lustre. an added the wine an alone gives name alone HocltEpor - This This is is a a corruption corruption of of the the HOTCH-POTCH. HOCHEPOTHOTCH-POTCH. pigs' ears givan in ears a fatty fatty broth from pigs' broth made from in France France to to a name given of mullan. mutton, salt salt and shoulder shoulder of and tails, tails, breast of of beef, breast and and carrots, vegetables, mainly cabbage. cabbage, carroIs, and mixed mixed sliced sliced vegetables, bacon, and (See SOUPS, potatoes. (See Hochepot d la Ia SOUPS, Hochepot onions, leeks leeks and and potaloes. onions, flamande.) flamande.) a hotchis called called a stew which which is oxtail stew There is is also a spiced spiced oxtail There also a

prepared prepared as follows. follows. Put Put in in a a stewing stewing pot pot I 1 kg. kg. (2+ (2* lb.) lb.) boned boned shoulder shoulder of of mutton mutton and and I 1 kg. kg. (2+ (2* lb.) lb.) rump of of beef. beef. Cover with with cold co Id water water and bring bring it it to the boil. Remove Remove scum, add salt, and and simmer simmer for 2 hours. hours. Put a celeriac celeriac cut cul into inlo quarters quarters into inlo the Ihe pot, add I 1 small cabbage, cabbage, I 1 large onion with with 2 cloves, the the pot, add white part of of 4leeks tied in a bundle, bundle, 2 turnips,4 turnips, 4 carrots carroL~ and and white part a clove of of garlic. Simmer together for 35 minutes. Add Add 200 200 g. g. (7 oz.,l| oz., 1* cups) cups) potatoes potaloes cut eut into pieces, pieces, 150 150 g. g. (5 (5 oz., J t cup) cup) diced (6 tablespoons) fresh fresh diced French French beans, beans, 5 5 tablespoons (6 cut into a lettuce cut white beans, a into quarters, quarters, and and a a handful handful of of fresh peas. peas. Cook Cook all ail these these ingredients together on a a low heat. heat. HUSK. HUSK. cRUAU GRUAU - The part part of the wheat wheat encasing the grain. It It is the most nourishing part and the richest in part of of the wheat and gluten. The husk In the gluten. The husk is is also the toughest toughest part part of of the wheat. wheat.ln first t'irst stage stage of of milling it it is very very coarsely coarsely ground. ground. At At the second grinding, ground finer grinding. the tbe husks busks are ground t'iner to produce produce wholemeal flour from which wholemeal bread is made. grain by a The outer casings of of oats, oats. separated from from the grain a (Oat husks special milling are also also called called husks. special milliog process, process, are husks. (Oat of bread.) When the husks are cannot be used used in the making making of grain is smoothed removed from barley and and the grain smootheJ it it becomes pearl barley. The French word for for husk, gruau, is also given to a very pasta, made from small pasta, ~rom potatoes, potatoes, which looks like sago.

hocher, hocher, to shake. Meats Meats of of various various kinds kinds cooked in in a sauce sauce thern from sticking. are'shaken' are 'shaken' in the the pot pot to to prevent preventlhem slicking. Hotcbpotch soup Hotch-potch (Scottish cookery) - Scottish national soup

from honey, used by A drink drink made HYDROMEL HYDROMEL made l'rom honey. much much used -A a solution solution of of Plain hydromel the Greeks Greeks and and Romans. Plain the hydromel is is a (mead) is the result of of the honey in water. Vinous hydromel hydromel (mead) diluted with with t'ive five limes times its of honey alcoholic fermentation fermentation of alcoholjc honey Jiluted of 11 11" to to 13. l3'. It has an alcoholic alcoholic content of volume of water. lt has an following recipe: Hydromel may be made according to the following Hydromel (22 gallons, 271 gallons) water 27t gallons) to 50C. 50'C. Heat 100 litres (22 Heat 100 litres water ta (110 lb.) honey. (122"F.) Add 50 kg. a copper kettle. AdJ (1 22 F.) in a kg. (110 the water of the raise the the temperature of Gradually raise water to to boiling into point, taking care liquid constantly. Pour Pour into to skim skim the liquid care to point, quite cold, transfer 10 is quite to a it is a vat vat and and leave to cool. When it a Draw for 5 5 to 6 6 weeks. Draw must be left to ferment for barrel where it must hydromel. the hydromel. off the It can aiso also he be used from hydromel. It Spirits can can be distilled distilled from Spirits in the the manufacture manufacture of vinegar. in
0
Q

for measuring Instrument for HYDROMETER. AR.EOMTRE mfolvrirnn -- Instrument HYDROMETER. principally used Hydrometers are principally used for the comparison comparison density. Hydrorneters density. and variable volume. densities at a a constant weight and of liquid densities placed in liquid under in the the liquid These instruments, on being being placed instruments, on These graduated stems, simple reading of their graduated by a simple examination, bya givur temperature. Special Special tables for a a given show the the density density for show operating at at a a to be made when operating necessary adjustments enable necessary adjustments ta enable There are are many of of these these instruments instruments different temperature. temperature. There different (syrup gauge, gauge, salinometer, salinometer, acidimeter, acidimetern alcoholoin existence (syrup ln centesimal alcoholomeler alcoholometer Only the the Gay-Lussac etc.). Only meter, etc.). Gay-Lussac centesimal meter, France. is legal legal in in France. is
pungent aromatic plant with aromatic with a a pungent Small plant HysopE -- Small HYSSOP. HYSOPE It is used in in the the distillation distillation flavour. lt smell and and a a slightly slightly bitter flavour. smell particular, in in the the composition composition of of In particular, liqueurs. ln of liqueurs. of a a number of of the elixir elixir of of Grande-Chartreuse. Grande-Chartreuse. the

489 489

IBEX. BOUQUETIN Bouer.rrrrN -- A A type goat which type of of wild wild goat which lives lives in in the the IBEX. high mounlains. mountains. It It is is becoming becoming increasingly increasingly rare rare in in Europe. Europe. high
ICE. crecs -- Water Water in in ils its solid solid state. state. lce Ice used used in in conjunction conjunction ICE. GLACE with food food oughl yield drinking ought 10 to yield drinking water water when when melted. melted. To To with analyse the ice, wash a cube with distilled water and melt it. analyse the ice. wash a cube with distilled water and mell it. Test as for drinking water. Test as for drinking water.

Indians, Persians and and the Arabs. Indians, the the Persians the Arabs. Ice ereams creams and and water were introducod lce water ices iees were introduced into into France France procopio. Some about the the year 1660 by by a a Sicilian, Sicilian, Francisco Francisco Procopio. about year 1660 Sorne years ten opened a caf1 in in Paris, des ten years later la ter he he opened a caf Paris, in in the the rue rue des Foss6s-Saint-Germain (now the rue de I'Ancienne-Com6die). Fosss-Saint-Germain (now the rue de l' Ancienne-Comd ie). It (who had It was was here here that that Procopio Procopio (who had changed changed his his name name to to the the more Gallic-sounding Procope) Procope) sold more Gallic-sounding sold variously variously flavoured flavoured ice ice creams and water ices to the Parisians, who acquired a taste creams and water ices to the Parisians, who acquired a taste for for these these sweets, sweets, still still a a novelty novelty to to them. them. procope's Other Other Parisian Parisian limonadiers limonadiers quickly quickly followed followed Proeope's example, and soon there were so many of them thet,rn 1676, example, and soon there were so many of them that, in 1676, il was was necessary necessary to to give give statutory statutory recognition recognition to to their their corporation corporation and and to to authorise authorise its ilS members members officially officially to to sell sell ice iee creams and water ices. It is said that there were in paris, at crea ms and water iees. Jt is said that there were in Paris, at that time, that time, 250limonadiers 250 limonadiers who who were were selling selling ices. ices. Until Until about about the the middle middJe of of the the eighteenth eighteenth century, century, ices ices were only sold in Paris in the summer. In 1750, procope's were only sold in Paris in the summer. .In 1750, Procope's suc@ssor, Buisson, started making ices all the year round. successor, Buisson, started ma king ices al! the year round. His His competitors competitors at at once once followod followed suit. suit. But But the the ices ices were were of of poor quality. li was po or quality. It was not not until until 1776 1776 that that ices ices more more delicate delicate in in flavour began to to be be made. made. These These had had more more body body than than those those flavour began of of earlier earlier times tin1es and and could could be be moulded moulded into into different different shapes. shapes. It was It was about about this this time time thatfromages, thatfromages, as as well weil as as a a numbei number of of frozen desserts, were invented. Some of these are still made frozen desserts, were inven ted. Sorne of these are still made today. today. Although Although the the Romans Romans used used to to cool cool drinks drinks with with ice ice or or snow, this practice was not introduced into France until the snow, this practice was not introduced into France until the seventeenth century, and even then it was only adopted by seventeenth century, and even then il was only adopted by persons of great refinement. persons of great refinement. In In the the Dictionnaire Dictionnaire de de Monnet,1636, Monnel, 1636, the the word word glaciire glacire (ice (ice chest) does not even appear. Yet some forty years later the chest) does not even appear. Yet sorne forry years later the custom custom of ofdrinking drinkingiced iced wines wines was was so so general general in in France France that that any one any departure departure from from it it was was much much frowned frowned upon, upon, if if one may may judge from what Boileau says in his Repas ridicule: judge l'rom what Boileau says in his Repas ridicule: Mais Mais qui quil'aurait l'auraitpense? pense?Pour Pour comble comble de de disgrdce, disgrce, Par chaudqu'il qu'ilfasait, fasait, nous nousn'avions n'avionspoint point de deglace, glace, Par Ie le chaud

ICE CREAMS CREAMS AND AND ICES. ICES. GLACES cLAcEs -- Flavoured Flavoured iees ices have have ICE been made since the very earliest times, and it is generally been made since the very earliest times, and it is generally recognised that that the Arabs and and the the Chinese Chinese knew knew the the art art of of recognised the Arabs making iced iced sweets, sweets, especially especially water (sherbets). The water iees ices (sherbets). The making Chinese, it is said, said, taught art of of ice ice cream cream making making to to the the Chinese, it is taught the the art

it

glace, bon Point de de glace, bon Dieu Dieu 1 ! Dans Dans le I'6tb, le fort de /' Point t, fort de juin ... Au mois mois de de juin ... Au 'The worst worst ofdisasters. of disasters. But who who would would have have thought il? it? 'The 'In spite spite of of the the heat, heat, we we had had no no ice. ice. 'In 'No ice, good God! ice, good At the height of God! At of the summer, summer, 'No 'In the the month month of June. . .' of June 'In .... At the the end end of of the eighteenth eighteenth century, century, the manufacture of of iees ices At developed considerably, considerably, especially especially in in Paris. This was was the age developed which saw saw the the invention invention of of the the ice ice bombe. bombe. Il It was was soon soon the the which custom to glacie at to serve serve a a bombe bombe glace at the the end end of of any any fonnal formal custom palaismeal, and the the savouring savouring of of ices ices at at the cafes of of the the Palaismeal, and the cafs Royal had this time become fashionable. Royal had by by this During the the period of the First Empire, Empire, thanks thanks to to the During period of the Fust Italian ice cream manuflacturers, Italian ice eream manufacturers, of whom there were were many in ice cream and water ices of of various kinds improved improved in Paris, Paris. iee still further quality. Ices a basic still further in in quality. lces began to to be be made from a mixture of egg egg yolks syrup, which led to the creation of mixture of yolks and syrup, more more elaborate elaborate sweets. These took took the place of cylindrical ice cream blocks blocks at at formal formaI dinners. ice cream Pratti Tortoni became Pratti and and Tortoni became famous famous for the delicacv de1icaey of of their ices. ices. Under Under the the Second Empire Empire the'surprise the 'surprise omelette', omelette', somesometimes times called called omelette omelelle d la la norvigienne, norvgienne, was was invented. This This remarkable remarkable sweet, sweet, with with a centre of of cold fruit fruit and and ice ice cream and and a a hot hot crust crust of of meringue meringue browned browned in in the the oven, oyen, was was cleverly cleverly devised devised to to produce produce a gastronomic gastronomie paradox, paradox, a a ball bail of ice ice in in a a piping piping hot hot casing. casing. (See (See EGGS, EGGS, Omelette Omelelte d la norvigienne.) Under the the Second Second Empire, Empire, too, too, coupes, coupes, norvgienne.) Under mousses, mousses, and, and parfaits parfaits were were first tirst made. made. The The manufacture manufacture of of ices, ices, sherbets and and ice ice creams creams has has developed developed into into an an industry industry of of some sorne magnitude magnitude being, being, as as it it is, is, an an important important outlet out let for for agricultural agricultural dairy dairy produce, produce, eggs eggs and and fruit. fruit. The The enormous enormous advances advances made made by by the the refrigeration refrigeration industries industries have have resulted resulted in in much much improved improved. methods methods of of manufacture, manufacture, conservation conservation and and distribution. distribution. Domestic Domestic appliances, appliances, too, too, have have been been considerably considerably improved. improved. The The manufacture manufacture of of ice ice cream cream products, products, now now mainly mainly automatic, automatic, is is carried carried out out under under strictly strictJy hygienic hygienic conditions. conditions. Electrically-operated Electrically-operated ice ice cream cream freezers freezers are are available available for for domestic domestic use. use. General General method method for for the the preparation preparation of ofices ices- UsW Using a a churn churn Having prepared prepared the the appropriate appropriate mixture mixture (for (for syrup syrup freezer. Having freezer. ice ice or or cre:lm eream ice), iee), pour pour it it into into a a metal metal freezer freezer lodged lodged in in a a bucket bucket containing containing layers layers of of chipped chipped ice, ice, salt salt and and saltpetre. saltpetre. This This mixture mixture should should be be well well pressed pressed down down in in the the bucket. bucket. Replace Replace the the lid lid and and start star! to to churn, ch urn, continuing continuinguntil until freezing freezing is is accomplished. accomplished. 490 490

TCE ICE CREAMS CREAMS AND AND ICES ICES

Ifa a hand-operated hand-operated churn churn freezer freezer is is used used close close it it tightly. tightly. If Tum it it up up first first one one way way and and then then the the other other by by the the handle handle Turn attached to to the the lid. lid. This This operation operation throws throws some sorne of of the the attached mixture against against the the sides sides of of the the frqzer freezer so so that that it it solidifies. solidifies. mixture istherefore therefore necessary necessary from from time time to to time time to to scrape scrape the the sides sides Itis It of the the freezer freezer with with a a special special spatula spatula and and mix mix the the frozen frozen ice ice of During the the freezing freezing process, process, stir stir the the cream with with the the rest. rest. During cream mixture mixture thoroughly thoroughly with with the the spatula spatula so so that that it it remains remains smooth and and creamy. creamy. smooth Using a a food food freezer. freezer. Ice !ce cream cream mixtures mixtures can can be be frozen frozen Using quickly and easily easily in in a a household household food food freezer. freezer. This This does does not not quickly and produce produce the the same sa me perfect perfect texture texture as as an an ice ice cream cream churn churn freezer, but but if if the the mixture mixture is is frozen frozen quickly quickly and and stirred stirred fre,ezer, frequently, satisfactory satisfactory results results can can be be obtained. obtained. frequently, Presentation of of ices ices - Ice lce cream cream and and water water ices ices can can be be Presentstion in many many different different ways. ways. They They can can be be shaped with with a presented in presented bali-scoop and and served served in in shells shells or or in in special special glasses, glasses, or or - still ball-scoop shaped with with a a ball-scoop bali-scoop - formd formed into into a a pyramid pyramid on a dish shaped napkin or or paper paper doyley. doyley. covered with with a a folded folded napkin covered ices can can also also be be transferred, transferred, after after Ice cream cream and and water ices Ice freezing, to to special special moulds moulds which which are conical in shape. shape. These freezing, are hermetically hermetically sealed and placed, placed, with their their contents, in a ice and and bucket where they are packed round with chopped ice bucket ensure that the the ices are are quite firm fion when they they are salt. To ensure salt. the moulds, mou Ids, they they should be left left in in the the ice should be turned out of the bucket for at least I 1 hour. bucket over the out these ices, ices, run run cold water rapidly over cold water To turn out wann mould. Dip it for a second into warm water. This will warm sides. Tip the detach the ice from the sides. and detach the mould slightly slightly and carefully, leaving mould upside upside down on a dish and lift it up carefulIy, the ice the ice cream in the centre of the dish. way as as same way Ices can in the the same prepared in in small moulds in can be prepared those shaped shapod in large moulds. those Small moulds are available in a variety of shapes. When with butter. sealed with are sealed edges are their edges filled, their are filled, they are When they and They are ice and of crushed crushed ice a bucket of are then pressed down into a salt, ice cream cream moulds. salt, like other types of ice
Electric Electric churn churn freezer freezer 'Sirem' 'Sirem'

(Nicohs) (Nicolas)

cotrrICE MIXTURES. COMICE MIXTURES. WATER ICE AND WATER ICE CREAM CREAM AND pouR GLACES kinds: POSITIONS posITIoNs POUR three kinds: of three These are are of DIvERsEs -- These cLAcEs DIVERSES ices of water ices those preparation ofwater in the the preparation usod in base, used syrup base, with a a syrup those with with a a flavoured those with liqueurs; those or liqueurs; essences or fruit juices, essences with fruitjuices, flavourod with yolks, sugar and custard sugar and of egg egg yolks, a mixture mixture of from a made from base, made custard base, milk; base. mousse base. a mousse with a those with milk; and and those fruit the fruit Mixture Rub the FRtlITs -- Rub ALx FRUITS cu,cr AUX ices. GLACE fmit ices. for fruit Mixtrre for pur6e (peeled the pure to the Add to sieve. Add a fine fine sieve. through a (peeled if necessary) through if necessary) (4 cups thus Id sugar cups syrup (4 sugar syrup quantity of cold of co equal quantity an equal obtained an tlus obtained sugar and cooled) and and cooled) 5 minutes minutesand for 5 water boiled boiled for 2 cups cups water sugar and and 2 pur6e. add juice according fruit pure. of the the fruit nature of to the the nature lemon juice accordlng to add lemon Mix possible testing the testing the ice, where where possible on ice, ingredients on Mix ail all these these ingredients sugar Fruit saccharometer. Fruit with aa saccharometer. mixture with the mixture of the sugar content content of ices density standard density registering aastandard mixture registering made from from aa mixture ices are are made of to 22. of 18 l8'to22". Fruit prepared thus: thus: beprepared mayalso also be Fruit ices ices may Pound (l I oz., g.(lI cups) lt cups) oz., I~ with300 300g. mortar with inaamortar Pound the fruit in the fruit

cssences. and essences. liquam and with liqueurs ices Oavoured flavoured witb for ices Mxtrre for Mixture or liqueur or Add the the liqueur - Add (see SYRUP). Usually, SYRUP). Usually, syrup (see sugar syrup cold sugar desired to to coJd essence desired essence for every every required for liqueuris (6 tablespoons, scant+cup) I dl. (6 tablespoons, scant 1 t cup) liqueur is required juice lemon juice A little little lemon quart) syrup. syrup. A generous quart) (scant quart, quart, generous litre (scant litre to this mixture. is added to is with flavoured with of ices ices flavoured ingredients of the basic basic ingredients These are are the These cherry Curagao, cherry cac6o, Curaao, de cacao, Crdme de Armagnac, Crme anisette, Armagnac, anisette, liqueur. any other other liqueur. or any maraschino, or rum, maraschino, kirsch, rum, brandy, kirsch, brandy, possible whenever possible this mixture mixture whenever ices, this fruit ices, case of of fruit As in in the the case As register should register which should saccharometer, which a saccharometer, with a be tested tested with must be must 18" and and22'. between 18 between 22. in aa (custarQ. GLACE m CRME cniw -- Place Place in a LA cLAcE mix0rre (custard). Ice cream cream mixture Ice yolks. l0bgg and 10 (l I oz., sugar and fine sugar g. (lI Ltcups) oz., I~ saucepan 300 300 g. cups) fine 'egg yolks. saucepan ribbon reaches ribbon it reaches until it spatula until with aa spatula mixture with this mixture Work this Work ribbon). like aa ribbon). (when it spatula like off the the spatula it drops drops off consistency (when consistency quart) generousquart) (If, pints, pints, generous litre (li I litre little, 1 little by by little, Blend in in little Blend until it it stirring until stove, the st on the Cook on milk. Cook boiling milk. flavoured boiling flavoured ove, stirring to the theboil boilor or tocome come to beallowed allowed to not be It must must not the spoon. spoon. It coats the coats will curdle. curdle. mixture will the mixture the from Stir from bowl. Stir sieve into intoaa bowl. fineconical conical sieve Rub through through aa fine Rub quite cold. cold. it is isquite until it to time time until time to time (14oz., g.(14 cups) 400g. oz.,lf is400 used is commonly used The mixture most commonly mixture most The li;cups) quart) (lf pints, pints,generous generous quart) yolks to litre(li to11litre eggyolks and 88egg fine sugar sugar and fine producingaafirm, creamy firm, creamy good recipe, recipe,producing verygood isaavery Thisis milk. This milk. flavouring liquidflavouring addedaaliquid may be beadded which may towhich sweet, to not too toosweet, ice, not ice, risk without risk other) without orany anyother) (brandy, rum, Chartreuseor kirsch, Chartreuse rum, kirsch, (brandy, up making up andmaking lessmilk milkand using less itsconsistency. consistency.By ofspoiJing spoiling its of By using smoother ofsmoother icecream creamof anice cream,an freshcream, withfresh contentwith theliquid liquidcontent the beobtained. obtained. can be texture can texture fewer andfewer lesssugar sugarand byusing usingJess madeby iceis ismade firmerice andfirmer Adrier drierand A
ESSENCES AUx ESSENCES LrQr.JEuRS, AUX Ar.X LIQUEURS, GLACES AUX GLACES

(generous 1 fruit. g. (generous I lb.) lb.) fruit. 500 g. fine every 500 sugar to fine sugar to every much as much mixture as Add to to this this mixture sieve. Add fine sieve. a fine Rub Rub through through a (This must must density. (This to the the right right density. it to required to to bring bring it water as as is water is required with a a saccharometer.) saccharometer.) tested with be tested be

Various for ice puddings for ice VariousmouJds moulds Puddings (Dehil/erin. Larousse) (Dehillerin.Phol. Phot. Larousse)

cream moulds ice Old-fashioned Oldfashioned ice cream moulds

491 491

ICE CREAMS CREAMS AND AND ICES ICES ICE

yolks. If, If, however, however, too too little little sugar egg yolks. sugar or or too too few few eggs eggsare are egg used, the the result result will will be be a adisappointingly disaopointingly tasteless tasteless mixture. mixture. used, In no no circumstances (11 oz., circumstances should g. (II should less less than than 300 300 g. oz., lt l{ In yolks be quantifine sugar sugar and cups) fine and 6 6 egg eggyolks be used. used. Even Eventhese thesequanticups) yield an good quality. quality. ties will will not not yield an ice ice of of good ties pArs (bombe) mixture. Mousse (bombe) mixture. PTE A BOMBE BoMBE- - Make Make 1I litre litre Mousse (lt pints, pints, generous generous quart) quart) syrup (220"F.). 104'C. (220F.). syrup boiled boiled to to 104C. (li yolla in Put the and 32 in aadouble the syrup syrup and 32egg egg yolks double saucepan saucepan on on the the Put stove over a high high fia flame. From time time to to time with aawhisk. whisk. over a time stir stir with stove me. From When the reaches the consistency ofthick themixture rub the consistency of thick cream, cream, rub When mixture reaches it through fine seive quitecold, through a a fine into a a bowl. seive into bowl. Whisk Whisk until until it it is isquite cold, it Add an frothy and when it it should should be be light, light, frothy and whitish whitish in in colour. colour. Add an when quantity of fruit liqueur or cream, and equal quantity of whipped whipped cream, and liqueur or fruit equal pur6e. pure. Keep in in a porcelain container, a stone stone or or porcelain place in container, and in aa and place Keep bucket of of ice ice without without salt, salt, or or in in the refrigerator. the refrigerator. bucket given below. Recipes for for a number of a number of different different ices ices are are given below. Recipes

juiceof sugar. Add Addthe thejuice lemonsand of22lemons andof of22oranges. oranges.Rub Rub sugar. throughaasieve. sieve. through Addto tothis this mixture mixture enough enough filtered filteredwater waterto tobring the Add bringthe mixture to toaadensity densityof of16 16"to to18 l8'(see mixture (see SUGAR). SUGAR). Tangerine ice. ice.GLACE cracrALA r,c,MANDARINE rr{lNpARrun- -Infuse peelof Infusethe Tangerine thepeel of (1+pints, pints,I~ tangerines in in7t dl.(l1pints)boiling lJpints) 44 tangerines syrup. boilingsyrup. fi dl. juiceof Whenthe themixture mixture is iscold, cold,add add the thejuice When of66tangerines, tangerines,22 (Density:20 oranges and and1I lemon. lemon. Strain. Strain. (Density: oranges - - see 20"to to21 2lo see SUGAR.) SUGAR.) PLAIN ICE ICECREAMS. CREAMS.GLACES crlcrssrMprssA PLAIN SIMPLES LA r,c,CRME cRitcAlnond ice icecream. cream.GLACES Almond cLAcEs AUX Ar.xAMANDES AMANDTs - - Add Addto to1Ilitre litre ( lt pints, pints,generous generousquart) quart) boiled boiledmilk, (4oz., (li scant cup) milk,100 100g. oz.,scant cup) E(4 freshalmonds almondsand fresh and 55bitter almonds which been blanched bitteralmonds which have havebeenblanched pounded with and pounded with aa few few tablespoons and tablespoons water. water.Infuse Infuse for for25 25 minutes. minutes. prepare custard Use to to prepare Use custard cream cream as asdescribed describedin inthe thebasic basic recipe for for lce lce cream recipe creammixture. mixture. Freeze Freezethe icecream theice cream in inthe the usual usual way. way. Chocolate Chocolate ice ice cream. cream. GLACE cLAcEAU AU CHOCOLAT cHocor,,lr - - Add g. Add250 250g. (9 oz., grated chocolate, (9 3 cups) o2.,3 cups) grated chocolate, dissolved (} pint, pint, dissolved in in22dl. dl.(1(lf; pints, scant cup) pints, generous scant cup) water water to to 1I litre litre (Ii generous quart) quart)boiled boiled milk milk fiavoured flavoured with with vanilla. vanilla. The chocolate The chocolate being beingsweet in itself, (9oz., sweet in itself, only g.(9 only250 250g. oz., generous cup) generous cup) fine finesugar sugar should should be be used insteadof ofthe used instead thelarger larger quantities indicated quantities indicated in in the the basic basic instructions instructions for for lce cream lce cream mixture. mixture.

PLAIN FRUIT FRUIT ICES ICES WITH WITH A A SYRUP SYRUP BASE. BASE. GLACES GLAcEs PLAIN
ice. GLACE cracn A L'ABRICOT r'lnnlcor -- Equal quantities of Equal quantities fresh of fresh Apricot ice. juice of pulp or pur6e and apricot pulp or pure and syrup. syrup. The The juice lemons is of 2 2 lemons is apricot (scant quart, added to to every litre (scant quarto generous every litre generous quart) quart) of of this this added (Density: 18 mixture. (Density: l8'to 19'see SUGAR.) SUGAR.) mixture. to 19 - see cl.lcn A LA r.l BANANE sA,NA,l.rE -- Proceed Proceed as as for fot Pineappfe Pineapple Banana ice. GLACE (sa below), using ice (see using syrup syrup and and banana pur6e. Add banana pure. Add lemon lemon ice juice. Flavour with kirsch or (Density: 20 or rum. rum. (Density: 20' to to 21 21o -- see juice. see suGAR.) SUGAR.) ice. GLACE cucp AUX (scant pint, Arrx CERISES cERrsEs -- Soak Soak tI litre titre (scant pint, Cherry ice. cups) crushed 2{ cups) crushed stoned stoned cherries cherries for for 1 (siant I hour hour in in } litre litre (scant 2* pint, pounded kernels with 2| cups) syrup. syrup. Soak Soak pounded pin t, 2! with the the cherries. cherries. juice and Add a a few few drops drops of of lemon lemon juice and a little kirsch. Add a little kirsch. Rub Rub (Density: 20 through a fine fine sieve. sieve. (Density: 20" to through to 21 2lo see SUGAR.) SUGAR.) - see Lemm ice. GLACE crncs AU AU CITRON crrRoN -- Soak Lemon Soak the the rind lemons rind of of 3 3 lemons h6urs in t litre (scant pint, 2i for 2 hours 2f cups) cups) cold cold syrup. syrup. Add Add the the juice juice of (and, if 4 lemons lemons (and, if desired, desired, the juice of 4 the juice of 2 2 oranges). oranges). Strain. (Density: 21 21" to 22 --se,e see SUG AR.) to22" SUGAR.) Melon ice. ice. GLACE cucs AU AU MELON MELoN as for for Apricot Apricot ice, ice, - Proceed as using melon pulp rubbed through through a a fine fine sieve. sieve. Add Add a a little little brandy brandy to the mixture. mixture. Orange crlcs A Orange ice. GLACE L'ORANGE r'oneNce -- Proceed as for Tangerine as for Tangerine l'ce (see below) with the peel and juice of 4 ice 4 to to 5 oranges oranges and and the I lemon. (Density: 20 the juice juice of 1 to 21 see 20'to 21o see SUGAR.) SUGAR.) pEclc Peach ice. GLACE cr,tct A LA u PCHE as for Apricot Apricot ice, ice, - Proceed as to 19 - see using peach pulp. (Density: 18 18" to 19'see SUGAR.) poms - Pound in Pear ice. cLAcE GLACE A rA LA POIRE in a a mortar 500 g. 500 g. (18 cups)fine (18 oz.,2f oz., 2i-cups) fine sugar with 500 cored sugarwith peeled andcored 500 g. (18 oz.) peeledand pears stewed until very soft. Add the juice of a a lemon. Rub through through a sieve. sieve. Add Add enough enough filtered water to bring the sugar density to 21 to 22' 22 (see SUGAR.) 21" SUGAR.) Pineapple ice. cucs GLACE A r',q.N,q,NAs L'ANANAS t litre (scant pint, Pineapple - Soak j 2i cups) finely pounded pineapple (fresh 2| (fresh or or tinned) tinned) for fbr 2 2 equal quantity of of syrup. Add a little lemon hours in an equal lemon juice and kirsch. (Density: 18" 18 to 20'20 - see and see SUGAR.) SUGAR.) Plum ice. ice. cLAcE GLACE Aux AUX rRUNES PRUNES - Proceed as Plum as for Apricot ice, of plums. plu ms. using puree pure of using Raspberry ice. ice. crlcr GLACE A L,c, LA FRA,r4norsts FRAMBOISE - Proceed Raspberry as for - Proceed as Strawberry ice (see below) below) using using crushed crushed raspberries. raspberries. Strawberry Redcurrant ice. crecr GLACE A u LA cnosnnr.n GROSEILLE - Add Redcurrant I litre (scant pint" pin t, 2l 2i cups) cups) redcurrant redcurrant juice juice to an equal equal quantity of of syrup. Add only only a few few drops drops of lemon juice, as as the the fruit fruit is is acid Add enough. (Density: (Density: 19" 19 to 20'20 - see see SUGAR.) SUGAR.) enough. Strawberry ice. ice. crAcs GLACE AUx AUX FRArsEs FRAISES - Add (scant Strawberry - preserved) f litre (scant pint, 2f 2* cups) cups) crushed strawberries (fresh or preserved) and pint, and the juice juice of of 2 2 lemons lemons and 2 oranges oranges to I litre litre (scant pint, 2i the pint,2t cups) cold co Id syrup. syrup. Sieve. (Density: 16' 16 to to l8o 18 - see see SUGAR.) SUGAR.) cups) This ice ice may may also also be be prepared prepared as as follows: pound poundtogether This together kg. (2f (2i- lb.) lb.) strawberries strawberries and and 500 500 g. g. (18 oz., 2f 2i- cups) cups) fine fine I1 kg.
SIMPLES, AUX AIjX FRUITS, FRUITS, AU AU SIROPSIROP SIMPLES,

Coffee (Debillot. Phol. Coffee ice ice cream cream (Debil/ol. Phot. Larousse) Larousse\

Coffee Coffee ice ice cream. ,tu CAF g. (2 cream. GLACE cLAcE AU car6 -- Infuse Infuse 50 50 g. oz.,l Q oz., cup) ground coffee cup) freshly freshly roasted roasted and (l| pints, pints, and ground coffee in in a a1 I litre litre (li generous quart) quart) hot, hot, boiled milk for for 25 boiled milk 25 minutes. minutes. Use Use this this to to prepare the the cream cream according according to to the the basic instructions for for basic instructions /ce It can Ice cream cream mixture. mixture.It can also also be be made made by adding to milk by adding to the the milk 2 (* pint, scant 2 dl. dl. (1scant cup) cup) very very strong strong liquid liquid coffee. coffee. Hazelnut VELINES - Proceed as Hazelnut ice ice cream. cream. GLACE cLAcE AUX AUx A AvELTNEs as for for - Proceed Afmond Almond ice ice cream, cream, substituting substituting for g. (4 (4 oz., for the the almonds almonds 100 100 g. oz., 1 I cup) pounded hazelnuts. cup) slightly slightly roasted, roastedo pounded hazelnuts. Pistachio prsrAcHE - Pound Pistachio ice ice cream. cream. GLACE cr.lcr LA PISTACHE A LA together - Pound together 75 g. ~ cup) blanched pistachio g. (3 (3 oz., pistachio nuts oz., t 75 cup) blanched g. (1 (l oz., nuts and and 25 25 g. oz, 3 tablespoons) blanched fresh almonds. While pounding, 3 tablespoons) blanched fresh almonds. While pounding, add a a few few tablespoons add tablespoons milk. milk. pints, generous Infuse in in 1 litre (Ii (l| pints, Infuse generous quart) I litre quart) boiling boiling milk. milk. 492 492

ICE ICE CREAMS CREAMS AND AND ICES ICES

Hazelnut am (Lar ous se) Hazelnut ice ice cre cream (Larousse)

Vanilla Vanilla and and strawberry strawberry ice ice cream cream (Debillot. (DebilJol. Phot. Phol . Iarousse) Larousse)

Use to to prepare prepare the the cream cream according according to to the the basic basic instructions instructions Use /ce cremn cream mixture. mixture. for lce 300 g. (ll (II oz., 2 cups) blanched fresh thoroughly in a mortar 300 (l o2.,3 almonds and 25 g. g. (1 oz., 3 tablespoons) blanchbd blanchd bitter almonds and 25 (2| pints, 1+ litres (21 Moisten with with a little little milk. Add li almonds. Moisten pints) cream. 2fr pints) cream. mixture down in the strainer to extract Strain, pressing pressing the mixture ail the milk. all (l I oz., oz., 1| Stir I~ cups) Stir 10 egg yolks thoroughly with 300 g. (II fine sugar in a a saucepan. saucepan. Add the milk to this mixture. Heat as for for Custard on the stove without to the the boil, boiJ, as without bringing to on the (see CREAMS). and stir stove Remove from from the the st cream ove and CREAMS). Remove creem (see in a a sieve. Freeze in vigorously for Rub through a a sieve. for 3 minutes. Rub a spatula. churn time to to time time with with a from time freezer, stirring stirring from churn freezer, (l pint, 2i partly frozen, add 6 dl. 2| cups) dl. (1 When the mixture is partly mixture is freezing process. whipped cream. the freezing cream. Continue the immerse the freezer Drain off any water in in the bucket and immerse and salt salt and and leave once more. with ice ice and it completely with more. Coyer Cover it for 2 hours. hours. a and arrange in a Scoop with a bali-scoop ball-scoop and cream with out the ice cream Scoop out apricot Pour a pyramid on pyramid pricot with a a folded napkin. Pour on a a dish dish covered covered with jam over jam over the the ice ice cream. cream. proMslinns AUX A,Lx Chestnut cLAcE PLOMBIRES ice cream. Plombilres ice cream. GLACE Chestnut Plombires (made pur6e (made (9 oz., g. (9 cup) chestnut chestnut pure MARRONS 1 cup) oz.,l MARRoNs -- Mix Mix 250 250 g. (l| pints, pints, I litre litre (li with 1 from in milk) milk) with cooked in from skinned skinned chestnuts chestnuts cooked (see CREA Rub MS). Rub ger..erous CREAMS). generous quart) quart) hot uecan (see hot Custard Custard cream through firm and and smooth, smooth, it is is finn Freeze. When When it sieve. Freeze. a fine fine sieve. through a (scant pint, pint, 2i cream, and and 5 5 whipped cream, mix 2t cups) cups) whipped titre (scant in f litre mix in tdblespoons (6 tablespoons) maraschino. tablespoons (6 tablespoons) maraschino. leave Put Id and mould and leave ice cream cream mou a cylindrical cylindrical ice this mixture mixture in in a Put this in hours. for It l| hours. in the the ice ice bucket bucket for prulnu6 -- Add litre Add to to 1 I litre Praline cLAcE AU lu PRALIN Praline ice ice cream. cream. GLACE prepared as as (li (l| pints, quart) vanilla custard cream, cream, prepared pints, generous generous quart) vanilla custard (see below), described below), Vanilla ice ice cream crearn (see for Vanil/a recipe for in the the recipe described in pounded (q.v.) ofburnt 125 (4 oz., praline (q.v.) g. (4 of burnt almonds, almonds, pounded oz., ~ 125 g. cup) praline t cup) grinder. put through and through aa grinder. a sieve sieve or or put and rubbed rubbed through through a The hazelnuts, walnuts, walnuts, is used for burnt burnt hazelnuts, The same used for same method method is pistachio peanuts. pistachio nuts nuts or or peanuts. Tea cream in in the the the cream lu TH rr$ -- Prepare Prepare the ice cream. cLAcE AU Tea ice cream. GLACE ( l| pints, I~ pints) milk milk and and usual lJ pints) dl.(Itpints, mixture of of 7i usual waywith way with aa mixture fi dl. 3 (+pint, tea. pint, li strained tea. verystrong, strong, strained 3dl. dl. (t 1| cups) cups) very preparation of icecreams The ofice creams for the is used used for the preparation Thesame same method method is flavoured verbena infusions. peppermint, lime-flower infusions. lime-flower or or verbena flavoured with with peppermint, for the the VaniJIa asfor rn VANlLLE vamr,rn - - Proceed Proceed as ALA Vanilla ice cLAcE icecream. crem. GLACE pod vanilla pod am mixture, basic whichaavanilla milk in in which using milk basicIce lcecre crearn mixture, using of has tablespoonof minutes,or orto towhich which11tablespoon for20 20 minutes, hasbeen beeninfused infusedfor vanilla added. vanilla extract extract has hasbeen beenadded.
Pound Plombires ice ice cream. cream. cLAcE GLACE PLoMBIiREs PLOMBIRES Plombilres

2i

lmond for A cream. cLAcE Walnut Walnut ice icecream. GLACE lux AUX Nox NOIX - Proceed proceed as as for Almond 100 g. ice ice cream,using cream, using 100 g. (4 (4 oz.,l oz., 1 cup) cup) pounded pounded walnuts. walnuts. sANs cookery). cLACD eggs (American Ice Ice cream without without eggs (American cookery). GLACE SANS the I litre litre (lf pints, oEUFs OEUFS Boil 1 pints, generous generous quart) quart) milk milk with with the - Boil g. (9 cup) fine oz., generous and 250 of cream cream and same sa me quantity quantity of 250 g. (9 oz., generous cup) fine (2 oz., Rub thiough g. (2 cup) cornflour. oz., I 50 g. sugar. Bind with with 50 t cup) cornflour. Rub through

(li

often. cool, stirring stirring often. it cool, a hair hair sieve. Let it coffee, orange zest, zest, coffee, lemon or or orange with vanilla, Flavour with Flavour vanilla, lemon way. Freeze in in the the usual etc. Freeze chocolateo liqueurs, etc. chocolate, usual way.

bombes former times, times, bombes In former cl-,c,c6Es BoMBES GLACES BOMBE ICES. BOMBES - In were and were mixtures and ice cream cream mixtures or ice ice or water ice of water were made made of were got their name. their name. is how how they they got This is spherical moulds. This shaped in spherical flavour, being being in fiavour, more delicate delicate in ices are are more Nowadays, bombe ices the (bombe) mixture in the describod in mixture described Mousse (bombe) from the the Mousse made from made above. basic recipes above. mixice cream cream mixdifferent ice two different of two be made made of should be A bombe bombe should A plain ice (this is cream ice cream a plain is usually usually a mould ~this the mould line the one to line tures. one tures, made casing, made fills the the casing, which fills other, which ice), the the other, water ice), fruit or or water a fruit or a in conical conical made in (bombe) mixture. Bombes are are made mixture. Bombes Mousse (bombe) from Mousse from lids, with tight-fitting tight-fitting lids, top, with the top, at the rounded at sligbtly rounded moulds, mou Ids, slightly left be left They should should be butter. They with butter. sealed with hermetically sealed are hermetically and are and 2 hours. hours. salt for for 2 and salt in ice ice and to stand stand in to Fill with with ice. Fill with Tangerine Tangerirc ice. mould with the mould Line the Aida -- Line Bombe Aida Bombe kirsch. and kirsch. with vanilla vanilla and (bombe) mixture flavoured with mixture flavoured Mousse (bombe) Mousse bombe Line the the bombe ArcfRIsNItIE -- Line BoMBE ALGRIENNE bombe. BOMBE Algerian bombe. Aigerian which Pineapple ice, ice, to to which with Pineapple Fill with ice. Fill Tangerine ice. mould witli wi$i Tangerine mould have been been in kirsch kirsch have pineapple steeped steeped in pieces of ofcrystallised pieces crystallised pineapple added. added. ice cream. cream. Vanilla ice with Vanilla mould Line the Alhambra -- Line Bombe Alhambra the mou Bombe Id with (bombe) mixture. mixture. Mousse (bombe) with strawberry-flavoured strawberry-flavoured Mousse Fill with Fill large strawstrawwith large bombe with the bombe surround the out, surround After turning turning out, After kirsch. in kirsch. steeped in berries steeped berries with the mou mould Line the lrrdnrclrNe- Line BoMBE AMRICAINEAmericanbombe. Id with American bombe. BOMBE (bombe) mixture flavoured mixture flavoured Mousse (bombe) Fill with with Mousse ice. Fill Strawberry ice. Strawberry icecream cream with Pistachio Pistachio ice bombe with thebombe Decorate the with tangerine. tangerine. Decorate with put through forcing-bag. through aaforcing-bag. put APRICOT. See APRICOT. bombe -- See Apricot bombe Apricot Vanilla ice ice wfth Vanilla the mould mould with Line the Bombe Bourdaloue Bonrdaloue -- Line Bombe with (bombe) mixture flavoured with mixture fiavoured Mousse (bombe) Fill with with Mousse cream. Fill cream. violets. with crystallised crystallised violets. thebombe bombewith Decorate the anise. Decorate anise. flavoured icecream cream fiavoured with ice mould with Line the the mould cardinal - Line BombecardinalBombe Mousse vanilla Mousse Fill with with vanilla raspberry. Fill andraspberry. strawberry and with strawberry with praline. with praline. (bombe) mixture flavoured with mixture flavoured (bombe) ice. Apricotice. with Apricot mouldwith Linethe themould Chateaubriand - - Line Bombe Chateaubriand Bombe vanilla, (bombe) mixture flavouredwith with vanilla, mixture flavoured Mousse(bombe) Fill with with Mousse Fill andsteeped (candied) apricots, steeped dicod and apricots,diced with crystallised crystallised(candied) mixedwith mixed inkirsch. kirsch. in

493 493

ICE CREAMS CREAMS AND AND ICES ICES ICE

Bombe dame-blanche dame-blanche -- Line Line the the mou mould withVanilla Vanillaice ice Bombe Id with (bombe) mixture cream. Fill Fill with with Mousse Mousse (bombe) mixture fiavoured flavoured with with cream. almond milk. milk. almond Bombe dauphinoise dauphinoise -- Line Line the the mould mould with wth Pineapple Pineapple ice. ice. Bombe Fill with with whipped whipped cream cream flavoured greenChartreuse. flavoured with with green Chartreuse. FiJI Bombe diplomate diplomateLine the the mou mould with Vanilla Vanillaice icecream. cream. Bombe - Line Id with (bombe) mixture Fill with with Mousse Mousse (bombe) mixture fiavoured flavoured maraschino, maraschino, Fill mixed with with crystallised crystallised fruit fruit steeped steeped in in liqueur. liqueur. mixed Brimbe Doria Doria -- Line Line the the mould mould with with Pistachio Pistachia ice icecream. cream. BOmbe Fill with (bombe) mixture with Mousse Mousse (bombe) mixture flavoured flavoured with with vanilla, vanilla, Fill pieces of mixed with with pieces glacds (see of Marrons Marrons glacs (see CHESTNUT) CHESTNUT) mixed steeped in in Curaao. Curagao. steeped Bombe duchesse duchesse -- Line Line the the mould mould with with Pineapple Pineapple ice. ice. Fill Flll Bombe (bombe) mixture Mousse (bombe) with Mousse pearsand mixture flavoured flavoured with with pears and with kirsch. kirsch. Bombe Francillon Francillon -- Line Line the the mould mould with with Coffee Coffee ice icecream. cream. Bombe (bombe) mixture Fill with with Mousse Mousse (bombe) mixture flavoured flavoured with with fine fine Fill Champagne brandy. brandy. Champagne Bombe Gismonda Gismonda -- Line Line the the mould mould with with Praline Praline ice ice cream. cream. Bombe (bombe) mixture Fill with Mousse (bombe) with Mousse mixture fiavoured flavoured with with aniseed, aniseed, Fill (q.v.) made praline (q.v.) a praline and a made from from filberts. filberts. and Bombe Grimaldi Grimaldi -- Line Line the the mou mould with Vanilla Vanilla ice ice cream. cream. Id with Bombe (bombe) mixture Fill with with Mousse Mousse (bombe) mixture fiavoured flavoured with with kummel. kummel. Fill (candied) violets the bombe bombe with with crystallised crystallised (candied) violets and and Decorate the pistachio nuts. halved pistachio nuts. halved Bombe Hricart H6ricart Line a a large, large, shallow shallow mould mould with with Bombe - Line (bombe\ mixture Strawberry ice. ice. Fill Flll with with Mousse Mousse (bombe) mixture flavoured flavoured with Champagne Champagne brandy, brandy, with with whole whole strawberries strawberries from from with strawberryjam dotted about about here here and and there. there. jam dotted strawberry imp6ratrice-Line the mould with with Redcurrant the mould Redcurrant ice. Bombe impratrice-Line ice. Fill with with Rice Rice (see RICE) d l'impratrice l'impdratrice (see RICE) mixed mixed with with diced diced Fill crystallised (candied) fruit steeped steeped in in liqueur. liqueur. Medicis Line the mould mould with with Pear Pear ice. rce. Fill Fill with Bombe Mdicis with - Line Mousse (bombe) mixture flavoured with peach, and pieces of and pieces of steeped in kirsch. peach steeped Bombe Monselet Monselet mould with with Tangerine Tangerine ice. ice. Fill FIll - Line the mould mixture flavoured with port and with Mousse (bombe) mixture and mixed mixed with candied candied orange orange peel cut into little pieces and steeped steeped in with in Champagne brandy. Bombe Montmorency Montmorency-Line (see - Line the mould with kirsch ice ice (see the basic recipe ab above for ices ices flavoured with liqueurs). Fill ove for Fill mixture flavoured with cherry brandy, with Mousse (bombe) mixture mixed with cherries steeped in kirsch. cherries steeped Nelusko (bombe)mixture Nelusko icecream ice cream - Mousse (bombe) mixture enclosed in a a layer of of ice cream cream flavoured with praline. Bombe Nesselrodeth Vanilla Nesselrode - Line the mould wi with Vanilla ice cream. (bombe) mixture Fill mixture to pur6e of Ell with with Mousse Mousse (bombe) to which which a a pure Marrons Marrons glacis glacs (see CHESTNUT) CHESTNUT) flavoured with kirsch has been added. added. Bombe Bombe mccis succs - Line the mould with Apricor Apricot ice. ice. Fill with Chantilly Chantilly creern(see cream (see CREAMS) CREA MS) flavoured with with kirsch, mixed with with diced apricots. apricots. Bombe Bombe tutti-frutti tutti-frutti - Line the mould with Strawberry ice. Fill FilJ with with Mousse Mousse (bombe) mixture mixture flavoured with with vanilla, vanilla, and with of crystallised crystallised fruit steeped liqueur. with a a salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) of steeped in liqueur. Bombe Bombe V6ronique Vronique - Line the the mould mould with Pistachio Pistachio ice ice cream. cream. Fill Fill with with chocolate-flavoured chocolate-flavoured Mousse Mousse (bombe) (bombe) mixture mixture mixed mixed with with diced diced candied orange peel peel steeped in Champagne brandy. brandy. Champagne

Preparation of Preparation wupes ofcoupes

The coupe The coupe Jacques may be Jacques may be regarded regardedas the classic as the classicsundae, sundae, (Seealso the model the model for for ail allothers. others.(See also SUNDAES.) SUNDAES.) Apricot coupe. Apricot coupe.COUPE coupE GLACE GLAcEE AUX AUx ABRICOTS ABRrcors - - Put Put22tabletable(3 tablespoons) spoons (or canned) spoons (3 tablespoons) fresh fresh (or canned) sliced sliced apricots, apricots, steeped steeped in in kirsch, kirsch, into into aaChampagne glassor Champagneglass ice cup. or ice cup. Top Top with with aa layer layer of of Apricot Apricot ice. rce.Smooth Smooth down down the thesurface. surface. Decorate Decorate with with half half an an apricot, apricot, steeped steeped in in kirsch, kirsch, and and halved, halved, blanched blanched almonds. almonds. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with aafew few drops drops of of kirsch. kirsch. Cherry Cherry coupe. coupe. COUPE cor.Jpr GLACE crlcfe AUX Ar.lx CERISES cERrsEs - - Put Put22 tabletable(3 tablespoons) spoons spoons (3 tablespoons) stoned stoned cherries cherries which which have have been been steeped steeped in in cherry cherry brandy brandy and and sugar sugar in in the the bottom bottom of of the theice ice cups. cups. Coyer Cover with with Cherry Cherry ice. ice. Decorate Decorate the the ices ices with with cherries cherries and and halved halved almonds. almonds. 1 ChamCoupe Coupe Crapotte. Crapotte. COUPE coupE GLACE cLAcEE CRAPOTTE cRAporrE -- Fil Fill Champagne pagne glasses glasses or or ice ice cups cups three-quarters three-quarters full full with with aa smooth smooth layer layer of of Peach Peach ice. ice. Arrange Arrange on on top mixture of top aa mixture of equal equal quantities of quantities alpine strawberries of alpine strawberries and previously raspberries, previously and raspberries, steeped steeped in in kummel kummel and and chilled. chilled. Coyer Cover the the fruit fruit with with a a layer layer of piped of whipped whipped cream cream piped through through a a forcing-bag forcing-bag with with a a fluted fluted nozzle. nozzle. Decorate the the top top with with blanched blanched almonds almonds and and crystallised crystallised violets. Coupe Coupe Jacques Fill Champagne glasses or Jacques -- Fill Champagne glasses or ice ice cups with cups with equal quantities of equal quantities of Lemon Lemon ice ice and and Strawberry Strawberry ice. ice. Put Pttt 1 I tablespoon tablespoon fresh fresh fruit fruit steeped steeped in in kirsch kirsch in in the the middle. middle. Decorate Decorate with with crystallised crystallised cherries cherries and and halved halved almonds. almonds. Sprinkle Sprinkle a a few few drops drops of of kirsch on on top. top. Peach ptcnrs -- Put Peach coupe. coupe. COUPE corJpE GLACE cLAcfE AUX lux PCHES Put 1 I tabletablespoon of a v.) of (q.v.) a salpicon (q. peaches, steeped of raw raw peaches, steeped in in liqueur, liqueur, in glasses or in Champagne Champagne glasses or ice ice cups. cups. Coyer Cover with with a a smooth smooth layer of Peach ice. ice. Place in the peach which Place in the centre centre a a ripe ripe peach which has has been peeled peeld and and chilled chilled on on ice. ice. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with kirsch kirsch or or any any other liqueur.
SHERBETS A TER ICES. SHERBETS AND AND W WATER ICES. SORBETS soRBErs -- See See SHERSHERBETS. Gramolates (see below) graniti (see A granit below) served served between between main main -A courses, like sherbets. sherbets. They are are also also served served as as refreshments refreshments in the the course course of of an an evening's evening's entertainment. entertainment. Granits - These Granitds These ices, presented in ices, which which are are presented in special special glasses, are are made made from from fruit fruit syrups, glasses, syrups, with with a a density density of of not not 14 by the the syrup more than 14" syrup saccharometer. saccharometer. are frozen in a a churn chum freezer They are frozen in freezer or or deep deep freeze. freeze. Unlike Unlike other types of of ice, ice, they they are are not not stirred other stirred during during freezing. freezing. As As their name name suggests, suggests, granitis granits should their should have have a a somewhat somewhat granular texture. texture. granular MARQUISES cr,{cfps GLACES - Make Iced MarErises. Marquises. rralnqusss Iced from a a - Make from 494 494

ICED ICED COUPES COUPES or or SUNDAES. SUNDAES. coupns COUPES crlcfEs GLACES - These are - These are a delicious delicious composite composite sweet sweet with ice ice cream as as their main main a ingredient. They They are are served served in in glass glass or silver ice cups, and ingredient.
for this this reason reason they they are are known known as as coupes coupes in in France. France. for The glasses glasses are are usually usually filled filled with with one one or or more more kinds kinds of of ice ice The cream and and decorated decorated on on top top with with fresh fresh or or crystallised crystallised fruit, cream or with with Chantilly Chantilly cream cream (see (see CREAMS). CREAMS). or Sundaes may may be be presented presented in in a a great great many many different different ways. ways. Sundaes

ICE ICE CREAMS CREAMS AND AND ICES ICES

mixture mixture similar sirnilar to to that that used used in in the the preparationof preparation ofgranitisbxt granits but frozen frozen to ta a a somewhat somewhat stiffer stiffer consistency. consistency. It It is is flavoured flavoured with with kirsch kirsch and and should should register registcr 17' 17 on on the the syrup syrup saccharometer. saccharometer. Mix Mix in, in, for for I 1 litre litre (If; (J~ pints, pints, generous generous quart) quart) of of the the syrup, syrup, 4 4 dl. dl. (i Gpint, pint, scant scant 2 2 cups) cups) very very stiffiy stiffly beaten beaten Chantilly Chanlil/y cream cream (see (see CREAMS) CREAMS) mixed mixed with with a a puree pure of of strawberries strawbcrries or or some sorne other fruit. fruit. Serve Serve in in glass glass goblets. goblets. other Iced {ceci prnch puncb iil la la romaine. romaine. puNcn PUNCH cr,lcf GLAC A LA LA RoMAINE ROMAINE-Iced - Iced punch punch is served served between between main main courses, courses, like like sherbets sherbets and and granitds. granils. To { litre (scant (seant pint, 2Ln 2* cups) syrup syrup (density (density 22") 22) add enough dry white wine or dry dry Champagne to to reduce reduee the the density to to 17o. 17. Add to to this mixture mixture a a little little lemon lemon and orange orange density juice of rind and the 2 oranges lemons. Leave, thejuiee of2 oranges and and 3 3lemons. Leave, covered, covered, for I 1 hour. houT. Strain Strain and bring bring to to a density density of l8'. 18. Ice mixture in in a churn chum freezer freezer until until it is rather rather stiff. stiff. lee this titis mixture Add Add a quarter of of its its volume volume of of Italiot lIalian meringue meringue (see MIXMIXTURES), TURES), made made from from 2 egg cgg whites and 100 g. (4 oz., * 1 cup) sugar. sugar. cup) Just Just before before serving, serving. mix mix in I 1 dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seant I 1cuP) sherbet. rum. Serve like sherbet. 20". When it is Spooms-sherbet with a sugar density of of 20. Spoom - A sherbet frozen, Italian lla/ian meringue meringue (see MIXTURES) is added - twice twiee sherbet. much as would wou Id be used used in an ordinary sherbet. as much Spooms are or wines are made made from from fruit fruit juices juices or wines such such as etc. They Champagne, muscatel, Frontignan, sherry, port, port, etc. like sherbets. are served in glasses, like

Line Line the the moulds mou Ids with with wafers, wafers, sponge sponge fingers fingers steeped steeped in in liqueur liqueur as as for for a a Charlotte Char/Olle rrsse russe (see (sec CHARLOTTE), CHARLOTTE), or or with wilh finely finely sliced sliced Genoese Genoese cake cake cut cut into into thin thin strips. strips. Fill FiJI with with a a Mousse Mousse (bombe) (bombe) mixture. miXlure. The The pudding pudding can can be be made made more more attractive attractive by by using using different different coloured coloured layers layers of of variously variously flavoured flavoured ice iee cream cream for for the the filling. filling, It lt may may also also be be made made from from a a mixture mixture similar similar to to that Ihat used used in in a a Bavarian Bavarian
cream cream (q.v.). (q.v.). Ice lce puddings puddings are are frozen frozen with with a a great great deal deal of ofice iee or or placed placed in in a food food freezer. pouDING Icedprddfurycapucine. Iccd pudding capucine. POUDING crlc GLAC cApucINECAPUCINE - Make Make a a Genoese Genoese cake cake (ser., (sec GENOESE) GENOESE) in in a a charlotte charlotte mould. mou Id. Leave Leave it it until il is is completely completely cold. cold. Remove Remove the the top top and and scoop scoop out out the the until it cake cake almost completely, completely, being being careful careful not not to to break break the the crust. crust. Fill Fill with \vith alternate alternate layers layers of of tangerine-flavoured tangerine-flavoured lced Iced mousse mousse and kummel-flavoured kummel-ftavoured lced Iced mousse, mousse, prepared prepared in advance. advanee. Cover Coyer the the Genoese Genoese cake cake with with its its top. top. Surround Surround it it with with ice iee and salt salt in in a bucket buckct and leave for for I 1 hour, hour, or or place place in in a a food food freezer. Place Place it it on on a base base of of clear clear sugar, sugar, decorated decorated with with flowers flowers and and ribbons ribbons of of spun spun sugar. sugar. Pipe Pipe Chantilly ChanNJ/y cream cream (see (see CREAMS) CREAMS) through through a a forcing-bag forcing-bag onto onto the the cake. clecfs - These are Iced Ieee:! souff6s. souffls. sollrFI.fs SOUFFLS GLACS are preparod prepared with with a a similar to that mixturb mixture similar that used for for cream iced mousses, mousses, or or with with a fruit a fruit mixture. mixture. Ingredients Ingredients and methodfor melhodfor fruit iced iced souffids. souffls. Whisk Whisk l0 10 egg egg g. (18 whites stiff foam. wltites to to a a stiff foam. Add Add 500 500 g. (l8 oz., oz., 2| 2~ cups) cups) sugar sugar SUGAR). cooked with I cup water to with 1 to 116"C. 116-C. (240'F.) (24O v F.) (see (see SUGAR). Put Put this this mixture mixture in in a a bowl bowl and chill. chilI. Add Add + t litre litre (scant (seant pinq2l pint, 2~ cups) ofwhatever of whatever fruit fruit puree pure is is desired and t ~ litre litre (scant (scant pint, pint, 2| stiffiy beaten cream. 2! cups) stiffly Large are served served in Large soufl6s souffls are in an an ordinary ordinary souffi6 souffl dish, dish, or stuck stuck surrounded by by a a white wltite paper paper friil frill tied tied with with string string or (l cm. (1 should be The frill together together with with butter. butter. The frill should be about about 2i 2t cm. dish until soufr6 is dish. Fill inch) inch) deeper than than the the dish. Fil! the the dish until the the souffl is flush with a bucket with the top top of of the frill. frill. Put Put it it in in a bucket of of ice ice and in a food freezer. salt, or in little way, either either in in little in the the same same way, Small souffls souffi6s are are served in paper cases. They, too, too, should should be be frilled paper cases. They, metal cases cases or or in metal in frilled placed in put to in a a food and salt, salt, or or placed to freeze in in a a bucket bucket of of ice and put food fteezer. freezer. paper frills dish or or frills from from the remove the paper Before serving rem ove the the dish cases. gflteau. BISCUITS cuc6s ice gteau. BIscuITs GLACS or ice cream or ice cream Neapolitan ice Neapolitan rectangumixture shaped in rectangumade of of lce cream creen mixture These ices are made layers of of with layers are alternated alternated with ice cream cream are lar boxes. Layers Layers of of iee lar flavours. iced of different colours and flavours. water iees way, or or salt in in the the usual usual way, in ice and and salt left to to freeze freeze in They are are left They placed in a freezer. a food food freezer. plaeed it the mould, mould, it out of of the taken out is taken block of ice cream is When the block or decordecorunadorned, or either unadorned, served either and served slabs and is cut cut into neat s!abs is piped through forcing-bag. a forcing-bag. through a plain iee ice cream piped ated with with plain ated coMTESSEstscun COMTESSEComtesse-Marie. BlSCUIT ice cream cream Comtesse-Marie. Neapolitan ice (called a a mould (called square mould special square in a a special made in This is is made MARIE MARIE - Titis Strawberry with Strawberry lined entirely entirely with It is is lined mould). It Comtesse-Maria mould). Comtesse-Marie cream. whipped cream. vanilla-flavoured whipped sweet vanilla-ftavoured with sweet ice and andfilled ice filled with paper special waxed waxed paper into a a special the mould mould into of the the ice ice out out of Turn the Tum and kirsch, and in kirsch, steeped in strawberries steeped with large strawberries Decorate with case. Decorate case. cream. whipped cream. sweet whipped sweet
Sweets ENrRElrtErscucfsICED DESSERTS DESSERTS or or SWEETS. SWEETS. ENTREMETS lCED GLACS - Sweets ice in addition addition to to iee either be served served in this kind kind may may either or desserts desserts of of this or in their their composition. composition. cream in ice cream may include include iee cream or or may cream (q.v.), Char/Olle cream (q.v.), Charlotte are Bavarian Bavarian cream Among these sweets are these sweets Among (see CHARLOTTE), flavoured with with fruit salads salads f1avoured russe (see CHARLOTTE), fruit russe jellies including puddings, fruit moulds, moulds, puddings, including fruit various jellies liqueurs, various liqueurs, (q.v.). (see RICE), su6doise (q.v.). RICE), stewed stewed sudoise Rice l'impiratrice (see d l'impratrice Rice poMMEs GLACES A LA r,l' NORNoncrecfos la normande. normande. POMMES Iced apples apples i la Iced

rcns MlSCELLANEOUS AND ICE CREAMS. CREA MS. ct GLACES MISCELLANEOUS ICES AND
DIVERSES DIVERSES

mousses or or mousselines. mousselines. MoussEs, MOUSSES, MoussELINEs MOUSSELINES mousses GLACES be made made in in two ct-lcfes - Iced mousse or mousseline may be syrup or custard custard cream. different ways, using using either syrup cream. different (4 cups syrup (4 Make a a thick for lhe thiek syrup the syrup. syrup. Make Ingredients for (220"F.) and sngar, 2 cups water boiled to to 104.5"C. I045C. (220F.) and cooled). sugar,2 quantities of sttfr ChanAdd equal of fresh fruit pulp and very stiff equal quantilies lilly tilly cream crearn (see CREAMS). 500 g. Make a a custard using Ingredients for for the using 500 Ingredients the cream. cream. Make (scant pint, pint, yolks and (18 oz., and 1 16 egg egg yolks oz., 2* 2t cups) cups) sugar, sugar, 16 (18 I litre (seant (scant pint, pint, 2* 2t cups) 2f cups) milk. Leave to cool. Add 1 2* + litre (seant powdered gum gum g. G oz., or., 21 2f tablespoons) powdered fresh cream, cream, 20 20 g. fresh (vanilla, orange or lemon lemon rind, orange or tragacanth and flavouring (vanilla, and flavouring fruit, add is made with fruit, If the mousse is etc.). If various liqueurs, etc.). (scant pint, pint,2f, cups) fresh fresh fruit fruit to the the cream cream mixture mixture 1 to litre (scant 2* eups) tlitre pulp. frothy. Put Put into very frothy. Beat the on ice ice until it is is very Beat until it the mixture mixture on paper. Seal hermetically and them hermetically and moulds lined with wltite white paper. Seal them hours, according to 2 to to 3 3 hours. salt for 2 leave to to stand stand in in ice ice and and salt the size Ids. size of of the the mou moulds. pARFArrs GLACS the term cuc6s -- ln In former former times times the term Iced parfaits. PARFAITS lced sweet flavoured with parfait was with for an an iced iced sweet parfair was used used exclusive!y exclusively for parfoits are made from from aIl all kinds of of ices, ices. coffee. coffee. Nowadays, Nowadays, parfails are made are not not encased encased in in a They differ bombes in in that that they they are a differ from from bombes They simple simple water water iee ice cream. cream. ice or or iee (l| pints, quart) pints, generolls generous quart) yolks in I litre litre (I~ Mix 32 32 egg in 1 Mix egg yolks cooled. and cooled. syrup syrup of28 of28" density, density, strained strained and Strain through through a a flame like like a a custard. custard. Strain Cook over over a a \ow low flame Cook quite cold. Flavour is quite cold. Flavour ice until until it it is on ice fine fine sicve, sieve, and and whisk whisk on j cup) (6 tablespoons, rum or or brandy, brandy, and and scant cup) rum with 1 I dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, scant with (lf pints, pints, generous generous quart) quart) crea litre (I~ cream, stiffiy beaten, beaten. b!end m, stiffly blend in in \I litre for mould. Leave Leave in in ice ice and and salt salt for Put a parfait mould. the mixture naparfoit Put the mixture in place in 2 to in a a food food freezer. freezer. 2 to 3 3 hours, hours, or or place with coffee, coffee, chocolate, chocolate, flavoured with Titis This mixture mixture can can be be flavoured praline, vanilla other flavourings. flavourings. vanilla and many other praline, and many pouDINGs GLACS puddings can Ice puddings can be be made made prddings. POUDINGS cucfsIce - Iee Ice puddings. pudding-basin mou moulds shaped in in pudding-basin or in many many ways. ways. They They are are shaped in Ids or in Ids. rn bombe bombe mou moulds.

!ced Iced

(*

495 495

ICE CREAMS CREAMS AND AND ICES ICES ICE

MANDE - SCOOp Scoop out out large, large, sound sound cooking cooking apples appleswithout without MANDE damaging the the skins. skins. Immerse Immerse the the hollowed-out hollowed-outapples apples for for aa damaging few minutes minutes in in boiling boiling syrup, syrup, so so that that they they are areslightly slightly few cooked. cooked. pulp, make From the the pulp, make either either an lce cream an Ice crecrrn mixture mixture or or aa From (bombe) mixture Mousse (bombe) (see above). mixture (see above). Flavour Flavour with with Calvados. Calvados. Mousse If the the apples apples are filled with with mousse are filled mousse mixture, mixture,chili chill them thernin in If plenty of of ice ice and and salt salt for for about about 2 2 hours. hours. If If they they are are filled filled with with plenty just before ice cream, cream, freeze freeze the the mixture mixture first first and and fi.!1 fill the the skins skins just before ice serving. serving. pAMpLEMouss GLAC grapefruit (filJed). (filled). PAMPLEMOUSSE Iced grapefruit cr,lcf -- This This sweet sweet Iced prepared in can be be prepared in the the same same way way as lced tangerines as /ced tangerinesand and can (see below), oranges (see below), by by filling filling the the skins plain ice skins with with aa plain ice or or oranges (bombe) mixture Mousse (bombe) mixture made pulp. made from from the the pulp. Mousse (filled). MELON Iced melon melon (filled). MELoN GLAC cucf -- Slice Slice off off the the top top of of aa Iced large cantaloupe cantaloupe melon melon near near the the stem. stem. Remove Remove ailliquid all liquid and and large seeds. seeds. Using a a large large spoon, pulp, being spoon, scoop out the scoop out the pulp, being careful careful not not Using to damage damage the rind. Make the rind. Make a a kirsch-flavoured kirsch-flavoured water water ice ice or or ice ice to pulp. cream with with the the pulp. cream Just before before serving, serving, fiJI fill the the melon melon with with this this ice. ice. Serve Serve in in aa Just glass dish, large glass dish, surrounded surrounded with with crushed crushed ice. ice. large Iced melon melon fi.lled fined n la h Chantilly. Chantilly. MELON MEr,oN GLAC cr.lcf A LA r,r CHANcneNIced TILLv - Prepare Prepare the the melon melon as as indicated indicated above. above. Cook Cook the the TILLY pulp sugar sugar and and rub rub it it through through a a fine fine sieve. quite cold, sieve. When When quite cold, pulp mix it with stiffly it with stifry beaten beaten Chantilly (see CREA Chantilly cream crectrn (see CREAMS) MS) mix flavoured with with kirsch. kirsch. Sprinkle Sprinkle the the inside inside of of the the melon melon rind rind fiavoured with sugar and and kirsch, leave for for a a time, time, and and then then fi.!1 fill the the rind rind with with the the mixture. with Stand the the melon melon in in an an ice ice bucket bucket for for 2 hours before 2 hours Stand before serving. porREs BELLE Iced pears belle belle angevine. POIRES BELLE ANGEVINE ANGEvnm - Cut Iced Cut pear at each pear at the the stalk stalk end, end, core core it, it, scoop scoop out out sorne each some of of the the without damaging the pour boiling syrup the skin and and pour syrup over flesh without over the fruit. fruit. Fill pear /ced lced mousse flavoured with Fill the pears with pear with kirsch or with ordinary Pear from the the scooped-out flesh. Pear ice made from flesh. Arrange pears on the pears on a a napkin-covered dish, Arrange the dish, or or on on a a foundation ofnougat. foundation of nougat. Iced pears, pearg filJed. filled. ponrs DUCrrEss GLACES crlcfrs -- Scoop Iced POIRES DUCHESSE Scoop out, out, without some large, large, sound, well-shaped without damaging the skins, sorne well-shaped pears. Using the pulp, prepare a (bombe) mixture. a Mousse (bombe) pears. Using Immerse the pears for for 5 the hollowed-out pears 5 minutes minutes in in boiling syrup.Drain syrup. Drain and leave to cool. Fill with the mousse mixture and chill plenty chili for 2 hours in an ice bucket with pIe nt y of ice ice and salt. salt. Iced Iced pineapple. pineapple. ANANAS ANANAS crrlcf GLAC - Choose a large pineapple, regular regular in shape, with the plume of of its tufted top left on. Remove the tufted tufted top by a clean cut about 2 cm. (t inch) cm. G: below below the crown. crown. Keep Keep it to use as a lid. Carefully remove remove all ail the the flestr, flesb, leaving on the sides and on the bottom bottom of of the the unbroken unbroken rind, pulp pulp about 1 I cm. (t $ inch) thick. Dust Dust inside inside with with 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) sugar, sprinkle sprinkle with with 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) kirsch and and leave in place for about about 2 hours. in a a cold cold place Just Just before before serving, serving, fill fill the the rind with Pineappte Pineapp/e ice ice prepared pared from from the the pulp removed removed earlier, with shredded shredded pineapple apple steeped steeped in in kirsch kirsch added added to it. Put Put the the pineapple pineapple on a napkin napkin or a block block of ice slightly hollowed hollowed out out in in the the middle, middle, and and replace replace the tufted tufted crown crown on top. top. Iced Iced pineapple pineapple la bourbonnaise. bourbonnaise. ,c,NA.NAs ANANAS cucS GLAC A rn, LA BouRBoNNArsE BOURBONNAISE - Slice Slice off off the the top top of of a large large fresh fresh pineapple. Keep Keep this this part part with with its its leaves leaves intact intact to to cover coyer the the pineapple pineapple later. later. Carefully Carefully scoop scoop out out all ail the the flesh flesh of of the the pineapple. pineapple. Core it, it, and and cut cut the the remainder remainder into into little little cubes. cubes. Sprinkle Sprinkle with rum rum and and sugar sugar and and stand stand it it on on ice. ice.

Iced pineapple pineapplemounted lced ice mountedon pedestal of onaapedestal ofice

(Modern Press) (Modern Press)

Make a Make a mm rum ice icecream. cream. Before Before serving, serving sprinkle sprinkle the the inside inside of of the the scooped-out scooped-out shell shell with with rum rum and and sugar sugarand and embed embedit it in in an an ice-bucket ice-bucket to to chilI. chill. Fill Fill the the shell shell with pineapple cubes with alternate alternate layers layers of of pineapple cubes and and rum rum ice ice cream. cream. Coyer pineapple. Serve Cover with with the the top top of of the the pineapple. Servesurrounded surrounded with with crushed crushed ice. ice. Iced pineapple Iced pineapple i la la Chantilly. Chantilly. ANANAS ANANAs GLAC cr.c,cf A LA r,c, CHANcnA.l.lT1LLY-Proceed tttty-Proceed as as described described in in the recipe for the recipe for /ced lced pineapp/e pineapple above, pineapple ice above, replacing replacing pineapple ice by Vanilla ice ice cream by Vanilla cream with with whipped whipped crearn cream added it. added to to it. Arrange pineapple on Arrange the the pineapple on a a napkin napkin or or on on aa block block of of ice ice and and replace replace the the tufted tufted top. top. Iced pineapple Iced pineapple i la la crole. ANANAs GLAC cr6ole. ANANAS cr,lc6 A LA ra, CROLE cnEors -Scoop pineapple as Scoop out out the the pineapple as indicated indicated above. above. Fill Fill with an with an Iced pulp of Iced mousse mousse made made from from the pineapple alternating the pulp of the the pineapple alternating with with layers layers of of chopped chopped crystallised crystallised fruit fruit steeped steeped in in rum. rum. Replace sb covered pineapple. Serve Replace the the top top of of the the pineapple. Serve on on a a di dish covered with with a a napkin, or or on on a a block block of of ice. ice. Iced pineapple Iced pineapple parisienne 1. A la la parisienne I. ANANAS lx,q,Nls GLAC cllcf A LA u, PARISIENNE IARISIENNE Prepare a a Banana Banana ice ice and and flavour flavour with with ChamCham- Prepare pagne brandy. Cut pineapple and Cut off off the the top top of of the the pineapple scoop out and scoop out threethreequarters quarters of pulp without without damaging of the the pulp damaging the the rind. rind. Cut Cut the the pulp into small small dice (4 OZ., g. (4 dice and and steep steep in in a 125 g. a bowl bowl with with 125 oz., t (4 OZ., cup) wild wild strawberries strawberries and 125 g. and 125 I cup) oz, 1 cup) black black i cup) e. (4 grapes, sugar, and Champagne Champagne brandy. Keep place Keep in in a a cool cool place until ready ready to to serve. Fill the pineapple rind rind with with banana banana ice, ice, alternating alternating with with layers layers of of the the fresh fresh fruit. fruit. Sprinkle Sprinkle each each layer layer of of fruit fruit with with blanched, finely shredded almonds. Finish Finish with with a a layer layer of of ice ice cream and coyer cover with the tufted top. top. Put on a block block of of ice, ice, slightly slightly hollowed hollowed out out in in the the middle, middle, napkin-covered dish. or on a a napkin-covered dish. Serve Serve with with Apricot sauce sauce (see SAUCE) SAUCE) laced laced with with kirsch. kirsch. Iced pineapple Iced pineapple parisienne II. i la la parisienne II. ANANAS nN,c.NA,s GLAC crlct A LA ll PARISIENNE - Scoop rARISIENNE Scoop out out the the pineapple as as indicated indicated above. above. Fill with alternate layers layers of of Strawberry Strawberry ice ice and and a a salpicon salpicon of pineapple pulp, diced (q.v.) of diced and and steeped in kirsch. kirsch. steeped in Iced tangerines and oranges. MANDARINES ET ORANGES Iced tangerines and oranges. MANDARTNES ET oRANcEs GLACES - Slice Slice off off the the top top of fruit near crec6es of the the fruit near tbe the stem. stem. Scoop Scoop out the the pulp pulp carefully carefully so so as as not not to out to damage damage tbe Fill the the skins. skins. Fill the skins with with a a plain Tangerine ice or skins Tangerine ice or Orange Orange ice ice made made from from the the fruit pulp. fruit Coyer with with the the top top of of the the fruit fruit and serve on napkin. Cover and serye on a a napkin. Melon frappe frapp - Two Two melons melons are are used used in in the the preparation preparation of Melon of

496

ICE CREAMS AND ICES

ICE CREAMS AND ICES

(RobertCarrwr) Carrier) Chantilly pineapple Icedpineapple lced d lala Chantilly (Robert

graniti makeaagranit them,make pulpof ofthem, oneof ofone this thepulp Usingthe sweet.Using thissweet. flavoured kirsch. withkirsch. flavoured with thestem stem' nearthe melon near secondmelon . Slice thesecond ofthe topof thetop offthe Sliceoff the outthe scoopout spoon,scoop Usinga aspoon, Remove seeds.Using andseeds. liquidand allliquid RemoveaIl pulp thepulp Steepthe rind'Steep therind. todamage damage the pulp, being notto pulp, caiefulnot beingcarefuJ -ott or maraschino or kirsch,maraschino port,sherry, sherry, kirsch, on ice inFrontignan, Frontignan, port, lcein Curaao. Curagao. very untilititisis bucketuntil icebucket an inan Put of melon ice very melonin ofthe the theshell shell Putthe iced granitiand theiced and thegranit ofthe layersof the cold. alternatelayers withalternate Fillwith cold.Fill flesh the second melon' secondmelon. of the fleshof dish.glass in Servein Replace top of the melon. Serve aa glass dish. melon. the of top the Replacethe peachesin pBcnss in the Stew Peaches cardinal. PCHES CARDINAL - Stew the peaches aa CARDINALPeachescardinal.
497 497

completely cold' untilcompletely Leaveuntil vanilla.Leave withvanilla. flavouredwith syrup flavoured syrup cold. layer of thicklayer fairlytruck dishon ona afairly ina adish themin Putthem them.Put Iirainthem. Drain of jelly flavoured redcurrant jelly flavoured icedredcurrant withiced Coverwith ice.Coyer Strawberry ice. Strawberry on top. strawberrieson wildstrawberries scatterwild andscatter kirsch.and withkirsch, with top. pEcnes MELBA - This sweet was first made in Melba.PCHES Peach Peach Melba. MELBA - This sweet was first made in fairly thick with dish silver a Linea silver dish with a a Escoffier.Line byEscoffier. Londonby London fairly truck on top peeled peaches whiclt Place cream. ice Vanilta of layer layer of Vanilla ice cream . Place on top peeled peaches which and left vanilla, withvanilla, flavouredwith syrup steeped hivebeen been have steeped inin aa syrup flavoured and left peaches are then covered The cold. completely are they untilthey are completely cold. The peaches are then covered until pur6e. raspberrypure. withraspberry with be served in the same way. maybe fruit of kinds Manyother other Many kinds of fruit may served in the sa me way. steeped in sugar or strawberries fresh large For instance, For instance, large fresh strawberries steeped in sugar or

ICHTHYOPHAGY
pears (halved (halvodor kirsch; pears quartered) stewed or quartered) stewed in in vanillavanillakirsch; flavouredsyrup, syrup, and andchi chilled; nectarines (peeled, (peeled, stewed stewed in in flavoured lied ; nectarines syrup and and chilled), chilled), etc. etc. syrup porREs MELBA Pear Melba. Melba. POIRES pears in Poach the the pears in vanillavanillaPear MELBA - - Poach flavoured syrup. syrup. Drain Drain and and dry dry them. them.Arrange glass dish Arrange in in aaglass dish flavoured or aatimbale timbale on onaafoundation foundation of of Vanilla Vanilla ice ice cre andcoyer crearn cover or am and with raspberry raspberry pure. pur6e. with ICIITIIYOPHAGY. rcHryopuAcm -- The practioe of The practice of eating eating ICHTHYOPHAGY. ICHTYOPHAGIE nothing, or or almost almost nothing, nothing, but fish. Ichthyophagy but fish. Ichthyophagy is is mainly mainly nothing, practised among peoples. A among seaboard seaboard peoples. A fish fish diet diet is is said said to to be be practised less nourishing nourishing than than aa meat meat diet, diet, but but there there are are no no subsubless grounds for stantial grounds for this view. Fish this view. Fish has has been been credited credited with with stantial aphrodisiac properties. properties. It It is is also also said said to to stimulate stimulate the the brain. brain. aphrodisiac These properties were attributed to fish because of a misThese properties were attributed to fish because of a misguided belief that that it it con contains proportion of a high high proportion phosof phostains a guided belief phorus. In fact there is less phosphorus in fish than in meat, phorus. In fact there is less phosphorus in fish than in meat, less even than in some vegetables. Fish on the whole is very less even than in sorne vegetables. Fish on the whole is very easily digested. gives the digested. As As a result it a result it gives the impression impression of of being being less less easily filling than than sorne some other other foods, foods, and and so so it it is is not not favoured favoured by bv filling manual workers. workers. manual ICING. GLACES cLAcEs DE DE SUCRE sucRE -- Sugar Sugar icing, icing, which which may premay be be preICING. pared with or without cooking, is used in confectionery of all pared with or without cooking, is used in confectionery of aIl kinds. Pas Pastries, petitsfours cakes and and petits (q.v.) ofvarious of various kinds kinds kinds. tries, cakes fours (q.v.) may ail all be be decorated decorated with with icing. icing. may Blackcurrant icing. icing. GLACE cr.lcr AU Au CASSIS cAssrs (3 tableMix ! dl. (3 table- Mix + dl. Blackcurrant juice with spoons, scant scant -icup) blackcurrant blackcurrant juice with 1 i dl. al (6 tablef, cup) 1O tablespoons, spoons, scant scant 1 cup) syrup syrup cooked cooked to (lZl.C., to hard hard ball ball stage stage (121 * cup) spoons, oc., 250"F.). Add Add enough enough icing icing sugar produce a sugar ta to produce a fairly fairly stiff stiff 250F.). paste. Mix. This icing must be warmed slightly before use. It paste. Mix. This icing must be warmed slightly before use. It is often often coloured coloured with with a a little little Iiquid liquid carmine. carmine. is Using the the same same method, method, icing icing may may be be made with strawstrawUsing made with berries, raspberries, raspberries, redcurrants redcurrants and and other other red red fruit. fruit. berries, Chocolate icing. icing. GLACE cucr AU cuocolAr g. (4 (4 oz., Place 125 125 g. oz, - Place AU CHOCOLAT Chocolate 4 squares) unsweetened, softened chocolate a bowl. 4 squares) unsweetened, softened chocolate in in a bowl. Add Add a ferv lukewarm syrup, short thread a few tablespoens tablespoQns lukewarm syrup, boiled boiled to to short thread stage SUGAR), and and icing sugar. This This icing stage (see (see SUGAR), icing sugar. icing must must be be used used at at once. once. Coffee icing. cracr rc,u cAFE - Add Add to to I t litre litre (scant (scant pint, pint, - Coffee icing. GLACE AU CAF 2| 2-i- cups) cups) very very strong strong coffee coffee (coffee (coffee essence) essence) enough enough icing icing sugar to make a fairly paste. sugar to make a fairly stiff stiff paste. This This icing icing must must be be used used at at onc. once. put a basin 2*ks. Fmdant Fondant icing. icing. cucr GLACE AU AU FoNDANT FONDANT - Put in in a basin 2t kg. (5+ lb.) lump sugar. Add l+ litres (2f pints, 2f, pints) oi"tJt (51 lb.) lump sugar. Add It litres (2-i- pints, 2i pints) water and 100 g.(4o2., I cup)glucose. and 100 g. (4 oz., 1 cup) glucose. Cook Cook over over a a high high flame, flame, skimming skimming from from time time to to time, time, until until the l6'C. (240'F.) sugar has has reached reached I116C. (240F.) or or soft soft ball baIl stage stage (see (see the sugar sUGAR). SUGAR). Pour the sugar onto a marble Pour the sugar onto a marble slab slab and and let let it it cool cool a a little. little. Work Work it it with with a a spatula spatula by by folding folding the the edges edges towards towards the the put in a centre centre until until it it is is a a white white and and very very smooth smooth fondant. fondant. Put in a bowl, bowl, cover coyer with with a a damp damp cloth c10th and and leave leave in in a a cool cool place. place. To use thefondant. Soften a few tablespoons of the mixture To use the fondant. Soften a few tablespoons of the mixture in a small saucepan over a low flame, stirring constantly. in a small saucepan over a low flame, stirring constantly. Add Add a a little little syrup syrup cooked cooked to ta short short thread thread stage. stage. Flavour Flavour with with any any appropriate appropriate liqueur, liqueur, or or add add a a little little coffee coffee essen@ essence or or melted chocolate. melted chocolate. Colour Colour the the fondant fondant with with carmine carmine or or any any other other vegetable vegetable colouring colouring if if desired. desired. Lemm GLACE AU AU crrRoN CITRON- Made Made with with the the rind rind and and Lemoo icing icing- cLAcE juice of lemons, as for Orange icing (se below). juice of lemons, as for Orange icing (see below). put Orange icing. cracr 2 oranges Orange icing. GLACEA L'oRANGE L'ORANGE-- Putthe thepeel peel of of2 oranges in in I1 dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant I c.rp) cup) syrup syrup cooked cooked to to the the hard hard ball ball stage stage (see (see SUGAR) SUGAR) and and let letit it stand stand for for 15 15minutes. minutes. juice Add Add the the strained strained juice of ofthe thefruit. fruit. Put Putthe themixture mixturein ina a bowl, bowl, add add icing icingsugar, sugar, and and proceed proceed as asfor for other otherkinds kinds oficing. of icing. This Thisicing icingmay maybe becoloured colouredwith withaalittle littleliquid liquidcarmine cannineand and a a yellow yellowvegetable vegetabledye. dye. It Itmust mustbe beused used at atonce. once. put 22egg Royal icing. icing. GLACE cracr ROYALE RoyALE - - Put eggwhites whites in inaasmall small Royal bowl. Add Addenough enough icing icing sugar sugar to to make make aafairly paste, fairly stiff stiff paste, bowl. though it it must mustbe besoft softenough enoughto to spread spread easily easily on oncakes cakesand and though pastry. pastry. Mix, without without working working the the eggs eggsand and sugar sugar too too hard. hard. Mix, preRoyal icing icing for for desserts desserts or or sweets. sweets. GLACE cLAcE ROY RoyALE Roya] ALE - - Prepared in in the the same same way way as asordinary ordinary royal royal icing icing with with egg pared eggwhites whites and very very fine fine icing icing sugar. sugar. Add Add to to the the.mixture 6 to to8 8drops drops of and mixture 6 of juice and lemon juice and work work with with aa spatula spatula for for 88 to to 10 l0 minutes. minutes. lemon When the the icing icing is is ready, ready, coyer cover with with damp paper. Keep damp paper. Keep in When in aa place. cool place. cool Strawberry fondant fondant icing. icing. GLACE crlcr AU AU FONDANT FoNDANT A LA Strawberry ~ L,c, FRAISE rRnrs.Cook sugar sugar to (240"F.) or to 116C. I I 6"C. (240F.) or soft (see SUGAR). soft ball stage (see ball stage SUGAR). Cook juice and Add a a little little strawberry strawberry juice juice. and a few drops a few drops of of lemon lemon juice. Add Pour it it on on a a marble marble slab slab and work it and work it with with a a spatula spatula until until very very Pour smooth. smooth. Using the the sa same method, fondant fondant icing icing may may be be made made with with Using me method, juice, lemon raspberry juice, juice), or (rind and lemon (rind and juice), (rind and or orange orange (rind and raspberry juice), or juice of pulp or from the or from the pulp or juice of other other kinds kinds of of fruit. fruit. juice), Icing Oavoured flavoured with with mm nrm and and otber other tiqueurs. liqucrrs. GLACE cLAcE AU Icing AU RHrJM -- Put (6 tablespoons, Put in in a a bowll bowl I dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, scant! scant I cup) cup) syrup syrup RHUM (see SUGAR), cooked to to soft soft ball ball stage stage (see SUGAR), 11 l+ tablespoons tablespoons rum rum cooked juice. Add and 1 I teaspoon teaspoon lemon lemon juice. Add icing icing sugar. sugar. Mix. Mix. Use Use at and at once. once. Icing made made in in this this way way may may be be flavoured flavoured with with other Icing other liqueurs. liqueurs. IERCHI a small small fish similar gudgeon. similar to gudgeon. IERClD - Russian name for a It is is much used in in Russian cooking, served served fried fried or in in soup. soup. It

Iguana Iguana

IGUANA. lizard, very IGUANA. rcu.lxs IGUANEkind of oflizard, very scarce scarce except except in in the - A kind tropics. tropics. Iguanas are to to be found found in in both hemispheres, hemispheres, but there there is is one one species species which which exists only in America. America. In In spite spite of of its its size, which precludes precludes its its assimilation assimilation with European European lizardslizards - though though it it is is akin akin to to these these in in its its habits, habits, and
preservation. preservation. Its among the the foods foods most most highly highly prizd prized by by the the Its flesh flesh is is among gourmets gourmets of of Central Central and and South South America. America. fr,f-Op-fnANCELE-DE-FRANCE - Some Sorne people people say say that that paris, Paris, the the symbol symbol and and home home of of the the whole whole gastronomic gastronomic tradition tradition of of the the lle-de1e-deFrance, France, does does not not possess possess culinary culinary specialities specialities which which are are particularly particularly her her own. own. Such Such people people take take no no account account of of the the magnificent magnificent work work carried carried out out by by the the master master chefs chefs of ofParisian Parisian restaurants, restaurants, from from Car6me Carme to to Escoffier. Escoffier. There There were were also also Gouff6, Urbain Dubois, Dubois, Phil6as Philas Gilbert, Gilbert, Marguery, Marguery, pailPailGouff, Urbain lard, Mourier, Nignon Nignon and and a a host host of of others. others. lard, Mourier, In In this this vast vast city city there there are are the the best best cooks cooks and and most most skilful skilful cordons cordons bleus bleus of of all aIl France. France. Paris Paris abounds abounds with with foodstuffs foodstuffs imported imported from from abroad abroad and and brought brought in in from from every every corner corner of of France, France, not not to to mention mention the the produce produce of ofthe the fertile fertile soil soil of of the the Ile-de-France, le-de-France, and and the the livestock livestock reard reared in in all ail the the dipartedpartements ments around around Paris, Paris, which which provide provide it it with with savoury savoury fish, fish, delicate deIicate poultry, poultry, every every kind kind of of game game and and a a host host of of other other delicious delicious things. things.
is is almost almost as as graceful graceful and and no no less less agile agile - the the iguana iguana should be be included among those those harmless harmless animals animais which which are are worthy worthy of included among

498

ILE.DE-FRANCE LE-DE-FRANCE

Les (FrezclGovernmen! TouristOffice) Ofice) Halles(French Govenr*unl Tourist l,esHalles

The and grown in ilede-France, and in the thele-de-France, are grown The finest finest vegetables vegetables are the picked in orchards inthe theorchards ispicked fruit is flavoured fruit delicately flavoured the most most delicately of ts to to gastronomic deligh delights thegastronomie few of of the list of ofaafew Here is isaa list of Paris. Paris. Here be regionin in in the theParis Parisregion and in ilede-France, and found in in the the le-de-France, befound particular : particular: Argenteuil hasthe the ofLauris Lauris has that of whichwith with that asparagus, wruch Argenteuil asparagus,
499 499

peas; greenpeas; reputation France;Clamart Clamartgreen inFrance; bestin thebest ofbeing beingthe reputation of Arpajon; ofArpajon; the thecauliflower cauliflowerof Bagnolet;the ofBagnolet; French beans beans of theFrench andasasthe artichokesand Laonartichokes ofCrcy-sur-Morin; Cr6cy-sur-Morin; Laon thecarrots carrotsof accuratelyof of paragus; ormore moreaccurately Soissons,or ofSoissons, paragus; the beansof white beans thewhite ofthe the morelsof Noyon; fragrantmorels thefragrant Versailles ;the ofVersailles; lettuces of Noyon; the thelettuces thecultivated cultivated woods Rambouillet;the andRambouillet; Viarmesand Verri6res, Viannes woodsof ofVerrires,

ILE-DE.FRANCE

RDY
t.'

..

"-Co p;a&
.9enls

...-s."'

,\ Partridge priti, Artichokes. -],Aslaragus11 TRoUT. CRAYFISH

{'Crayfish,Bo:r'r.tread.?iltodes(gritts).

1t

i !

O;;;;:.,

o."t"t,",,,

EEANS i'6olSSonsc? -t=aa l"llatP'"u"Lc! ",Wlers-Cotterets t Grittodes (grills), wild -,,:F.rabbit terrrnes

Game ternnes Venlson pdrd

f ,'n,h
Snarfs,

;"-^$a
Longourte(Splny (Spinyloblter) lobsrer) dlalocrme. crimc. Stuffed Stuffed Langouste

Trrpe

i..

tffiis5:fi,i'i* n ,
Suprme

r t -

<rab.Loing Loingand and Morin Horin bream. lle-de. bream,Cod CodlIede crab. France, Green porisienne.French Green Peas Peas ilrila lopOfi,ienne. French France.
potoroes (ried ftiedpOloroes

of sole. Sourl chicken

Chicken marengo. merengo, Saure r. Sourd chicken <hickenChOSleu chorrcur. Chicken

"""i..;}
(i
t:

locrem Chicken dla cremiand andoU ouP0f(O blon<, Chicken blanc. Dorao
Sweetbread barquettes. barquertes, Braised noir Eraised noi. Sweetbread veou, Saut de-eau. veal chasseur. SoutC -eal cholseur. de Veal marengo. marengo. Beer lo made. mode,Miforon Mirocon of Eeef <ila Veal o( bee,Entrecte Entre<6re steak steakbercy. Krdneys <idla lo bee. berry. K,dneys porisienne Saure 5ourd tripe. tripe. porisienne.

c5cqf9PC5.

Pwde Crdcy, Purde St. Cermoin. Parisian salad. Fried eggs d lo crdole, Eercy eggs, Godiveou. Rissoles d lo porisienae, Hot
pOtds

Chicken frinchard.

soup, Soupe bonne femme.

St. Maur Julienne, Watercress

i" T'-..
i
,.
,)

lNemours
a

i.
1

Fried tripe. tripe, Munon horico!, Mutton Hutton haricot. l.lutton navarin, novoria. Fried Shoufder 01 of mutton muttonboulangre. Pork cutlet! Shoulder boutonglre, Pork cutler: piguonte, Jambon lo lauce d la pone-moillot, souce piquanle. ci lombonporce-moillor. Thrush ci lo parisienne. porisienne. ri la Thrush Roast rook. rook. Roast
Puits domour. Wafiles. Tafle/erres d omou, Waffies. fortelettcr Puils

lench. .Clricten

Wafers. Brioches chontilly. Walers. coanrnly. Erioches Gastronornic rnap map ofJle-de-France of le-de-France Gastronomie

mushrooms of the Paris region, called champignons de paris; mushrooms of the Paris de Paris; the pot-vegetables grown at Bagneux, Ch6tillon, Saint Denii the pot-vegetables grown at Saint Denis and and other other places places in in the the area; area; onions, onions, small small and and large, large, leeks, leeks, cabbages, carrots, turnips, cucumbers, shallots, various cabbages, carrots, turnips, cucumbers, shal1ots, various salld-s, spinach, sorrel, chervil, parsley, parsnips, horsesorrel, chervil, parsley, parsnips, horseradish, beetroot. The The fruits fruits of of the the Paris Paris orchards orchards have have a a great reputation; repu tation; the the Chasselas Chasselas of of Fontainebleau Fontainebleau (those (those from the the king's king's vine-arbour), Andr6zy; the vine-arbour), of of Thomery and and Andrzy; the peaches of of Montreuil; the strawberries of valley, Montreuil; the of the the Bidvre Bivre.Ricart', valley, tle H6ricart Hricart strawhrry strawberry which which the the barrow-men barrow-men call call 'Ricart', and and many many other other sweet-smelling sweet-smelling fruits fruits which which melt melt in in the the mouth, mou th, such such ai as pears, apples, plums, figs, apricots and nectarines. pears, plums, apricots and nectarines. paris Excellent meat is sold in meat is in Paris. Paris. What What is is more, more, the the Paris butchers butchers are are true true artists, artists, and and their their cuts cuts are are flawless. flawless. pontoise Pontoise veal, veal, called called river river veal, veal, is is as as tender tender and and as as delicate delicate as as any any to to be be found. found. paris, in the regions of In the woods and forests around In the woods and forests around Paris, in the regions of Versailles, Versailles, Marly Marly and and Saint-Germain-au-Laye, Saint-Germain-au-Laye, the; there is is an an abundance abundanceof ofexcellent excellentgame. The The poultry poultry of ofHoudan is is held held in in high high repute repute for for its its delidelicate cate flavour. flavour. The The freshwater freshwater fish fish caught caught in in the the Seine, Seine, the the Marne, the Oise Marne, the Oiseand and the theAisne Aisneare areespocially especially delicious. delicious. Very good good cheeses cheeses are are made made round round about about paris, Paris, among which are areCoulommiers, Coulommiers,Brie, Brie Briede de Melun, Melun, and and the the fres[ creilm creamcheese cheeseknown knownas asthe theCr0met of ofFontainebleau, Fontainebleau,which which rivals rivaisthe thefamous famousfresh freshcream creamcheese cheeseof ofSaumur Saumurand andAngers. Angers. On Onthe thehillsides hillsides of ofthe the Marne, Marne, which which are are an an extension extension of of the theneighbouring Champagne Champagnevineyards, vineyards,the thegrapes grapesgathered gathered produce table wines that are fresh and pleasant to taste. produce table that are fresh and pleasant to taste.
500 500

parisimne).

Alnolg Among the the pork specialities of the the paris Paris region region are: Andouilhttes Andouillettes (chitterling sausages); sausages); boudins boudins noirsnoirs et blancs blancs (black (black and and white puddings); petit-sali; petit-sal; vean veau piqui piqu (misnamed named since since it it is is not not made made from veal veal but but from from pork);friands pork) parisims; parisiens; PAIC Pt defoie defoie de de cochon cochon (pig's liverp liver pt);fromage de dt6);fromage de t?te tte de deporc porc (pork (pork brawn); brawn); hure dc porc d h laparisienne parisienne (boar,s (boar's head ri la laparisienne) parisienne) Roulafu Roulade de de thte tte de de porc; porc .. pdt| pt de deporc porc de de lead Paris; Paris .. rillons rillons and and rillettes; rillettes .. cervelas cervelas or or sarcisson saucisson d aire cuire (saveloy or paris (E;lazed j@nbon glac6 or cooking cooking sausage); sausage);jambon glac dc de Paris (glazed Paris ham); c6tes ctes de de porc d la la charcatilre charcutire (ribs (ribs of of poirt< pork la ah charcatibre); "11,'1>','11/"P>,,,,1 pieds pieds de porc porc d ln laparisimne parisienne (pig's (pig's trotters trotters d /a la
Among Among the the dishes dishes made made from from other other meat meat are: are: Beef Beef miroton; miroton; shoulder shoulder of of mutton mutton d la la boulangire; boulangre.. entreciie entrecte

Long champ, Saint-C loud. Longchamp, Saint-Cloud.

cider is is brewed brewed in in the the Aisne and Excellent eider and Oise districts, districts, paris region distilled in in the and among the liqueurs distilled region there the Paris there is one,, the Noym,t dc Poissy, which enjoys a great and one, Poissy, which a great and longlhe Noyau de established reputation. established reputation. Cirlinar] specielities - The following soups were invented parisian chefs, and in in Paris, in Parisian restaurants by Parisian and may be classed c1assed among the culinary specialities speeialities of paris Paris and the thl P_aris dcy, Saint-G ermain, par Paris region region:: Cr Crcy, Saint-Germain, Parisien, Bonne-femme, isien, Bonne-femme, r e s s onnii r e, S C an t i, B onv ale t, C omp ii gne, C Cressonnire, Sant, Bonvalet, Cormeilles, Briard, o r me i lle s,- B r iar d, Soissonnais, Soissonnais, Argenteuil, Argenteuil, Ambassadeurs, Balvet, Balvet. Faubonne, Faubonne. atthe (invented by Dugl6re Duglr at the Ca/E Caf Anglais'1, Anglais), Darblay, Darblay, Germiny (invented lermiyl

Bercy Bercy and and entrecilte entrecte marchand marchandde de vin: vin; the the celebratd celebrated navarin navarin of mutton, and the the old old halicot ha/icot of of mutton mutton with with turnips, now now mutton. and callod haricot haricotof ofmutton;fillet ofbeef la lab?arnaise h"hlrn'1i,W'(bZarnaise (be;an'lai.se mutton;fillet of beef d sauce saucehaving havingbeen beencreated createdat atSaint-Germain-en-Lrye); Saint-Germain-en-Laye); rib ribof of

INTERNATIONAL INTERNATIONAL COOKERY COOKER y

fashioned/ricandean; du Puits Puits Certin; Certin; sauti saut of of fashioned fricandeau; calves' calves' head head fu veal veal chassertr; chasseur; mutton mutton chops Chanpvallon; Champvallon; sheep's sheep's trotters trollers d la poulette; ipigrammes of tmttton,lamb, lamb, etc. Among the special poultry and game dishes dishes of of Paris Paris are: are: Sautied Sauted chicken Bercy, Bercy, Boivin-Champeaux, Chasseur, Chasseur, Durand,fines en Durand, fines herbes, herbes, Lathuile, Lathuile, Parmentier; Parmentier; sprtng spring chiekm chicken en cocotte, d la la Clamart, Clamart, d la la bonne-femme, bonne-femme, d la la diable; diable; squab squab d cocotte, la la crapaudine, crapaudine, en en compote, compote, m en papillotes; papillotes; fuckling duckling nantais nantais with turnips, green peas;. duckling duckling rouennais rouennais d ln la presse; presse; with timbale of young young rabbit; rabbit; young young timbale of duckling Voisin; . gibelotte gibelotte of garentv garenne rabbit rabbit chasseur; . pheasant pheasant d h la Sainte-Alliance, Sainte-Alliance, a a majestic majestic creation creation from from the the hands hands of of Brillat-Savatrn; Brillat-Savarin; snipe snipe d lafirc la fine Champagne, d la Riche; Riche, wild wild duck duck d la la presse. presse. Vol-au-vent, flans and tarts tarts filled in in many many different ways ways have have for for a very long long time time been regarded regarded as as culinary specialispecialities ties of of Paris. Paris. Special Parisian Parisian fish fish (sea (sea and and freshwater) and and shellfish dishes I'amdricaine; l'amricaine; the the various various matelot4s mate/ots of of dishes are: Lobster Lobster d eels and freshwater fish, for example example matelotes matelotes &t du Moulin de d Ia Ia ; ; carp la R6pie Rpe and d la la canotiire canotire,' eel d la la tartare tartare; carp la canotiire canotire; ; eel bouillabaisse bouillabaisse d h la parisienne parisienne (doubtless disapproved disapproved of of by natives of Marseilles, but but excellent excellent all al! the same, same, and invented natives of by a a Parisian Parisian master master chef); chef); whiting Bercy, Colbert, Colbert, au by gratin; all aIl manner of of dishes made of sole, brill, turbot, sea sea perch, etc., brill Dugliri, perch, etc., Duglr, young young turbot turbot an au plat, plat, sole sole d la normande, normande, sole sole Marguery, Marguery, turbot turbot d h la parisienne, spring d la parisieme, coEtilles lobster coquilles Saint-lacques Saint-Jacques d h la parisienne, parisienne, frogs' legs d la poulette. repertoire are numerous. Among The sauces in the Paris repertoire chasseur, Charcutiire, chasseur. mentioned: Charcutire, the brown sauces may be mentioned: diable, hache, hachie, moelle and Robert. Colbert, diable, Among the white sauces the following are the best known: Among Choron, Fayot, Biarnaise, Bercy, Barnaise, Bercy, Bonnefoy, Bonnefoy, Chantilly, Choron, moutarde, poulette, raviIaguipiCre, mariniire, mousseline, moutarde, Laguipire, marinire, Viron. and Vron. gote, Riche and other Parisian of sorne some other random selection selection of Here is is a a random Here peas d la la parisienne; d la Ia frangaise, specialities: Green Grem peas specialities: franaise, pdtis Laon; the of Laon; the partridge Matelote de de Beauvais; Beauvais; the pts of Matelote -the of tampes; Etampes; poultry pts pdtis of lark pdtis of of Houdan; poultry the brioche; the puits d'amour oublies; the Paris brioche; dchaudCs; puits d'arnour; chauds; " oublies; pears of stuffed pears Fdre-en-Tardenois; the stuffed of Fre-en-Tardenois; aniseed bread bread of aniseed the green and Etampes; the the cakes cakes of Compidgne and Provins; the Provins; Faucaucoure; the barley-sugar of Moret and the walnuts of Faucaucoure; of Melun. sugared almonds of
and various dishes dishes and to various L') - Name applied to IMPf RATRICE (A V)a a cold cold dessert, dessert, a Rice d l'impratrice, I'impdratice, a is Rice Among these these is cakes. cakes. Among given under RICE. is given recipe for for which which is recipe given to to a a variety of The name name given Irrrpfnnrn -- The IMPERIAL. IMPRIALE IMPERIAL. 4 litres holding about about 4 plum and large boUle to a a large bottle holding and also also to plum and (3f quarts, wines and quarts, 4 quarts), which for Bordeaux Bordeaux wines which is is used used for 4| quarts), (3! for spirits. spirits. for
dishes various dishes (A V) to various applied to Name applied L') -- Name IMPRIALE IMPERIALE ( kidneys, gras, cocks' and kidneys, combs and cocks' combs garnished with garnished with trufles,foie gras, garnishes. other similar similar )o;<1JlIU,~U\;;;". and other and be would which wou meal which An improvised improvised meal IMPROMPTU -- An IMPROMPTU Id be pot-luck meal in English. meal in English. as a a pot-Iuck described described as with a a sharp sharp incisions witb shallow incisions To make make shallow INcISER -- To INCISE. INCISER INCISE. grilled or or fried. fried. to be be grilled fish that that is is to of fish knife in in the the skin skin of knife
veal veald la la bonne bonnefemme; femme; calves' calves' tmdons tendons d la lapaysanne; paysanne; the the oldold-

infusion infusion of of mushroom mushroom peelings, peelings, truffies truffles or or any any kind kind of of herb. herb. INSECTS, EDIBLE. EDmLE. INSEcTEs INSECTES coMEsrIBLEIi COMESTIBLES - Considering Considering the prodigious .H'-' ..U ......, ....... number number of of insects, insects, which, which, for for the the most most part, part, feed on on ths greenstuffs greenstuffs which which are are also also eaten eaten by by man man and and his his flocks flocks and and cattle, cattle, one one cannot cannot help help being being surprised surprised that that in in the the west, of famine, no no one one dreams dreams of of eating eating them. them. west, even even in in times times of They They are are usually usually objects objects of disgust among among western western peoples who who do do not, not,. however, however, hesitate hesitate to to eat eat prawns and other shellfish. shellfish. On On the the other other hand, hand, the the Arabs Arabs and other other peoples peoples of of Africa Africa and and Asia Asia look look upon upon certain certain insects insects as as great great delicacies, delicacies, and and are are surprised at at our our taste taste for for shellfish. shellfish. The John the the The Hebrew tribes tribes ate ate insects, insects, long before before Saint Saint John Baptist Baptist was was forced forced to to feed feed exclusively on on locusts locusts and and other other creatures creatures of of the the same same kind. kind. In In Leviticus (ll, (II, 2l-22), 21-22), Moses Moses enumerates enumerates the the animals animaIs which which the the Hebrews Hebrews were were permitted oe:rmithxl to to eat. eaL Among these these he he mentions mentions four four insects insects which Saint Saint calls locusta, Jerome Jerome in in his Latin Latin translation translation caUs locusta, btuchus, bruchus, and attacus. ophimachus ophimachus and attacus. The The locusta locusta must must have have been been the the locust, locus t, but but naturalists naturalists have have been been unable un able to to identify identify the the other other three. three. food Several other insects, insects, such such as as white white ants, ants, are are used used as as food Several other by savage savage tribes. tribes. In In ancient ancient times, times, the the Greeks Greeks prized prized grassgrasshoppers very very highly, highJy, especially especially the the larvae. larvae. The The Chinese, Chinese, too, too, greatly upon the the greatly enjoy enjoy eating eating certain certain insects, insects, and and feast feast upon palm fried chrysalis of of the silk-worm, silk-worm, while while in in Mexico, Mexico, fried palm and and grubs are agave agave grubs are sold sold in in the the streets streets like like chestnuts. chestnuts.

NARY NARY METHODS. METHODS. frn^luctnrINTERNATONAL COOKERY. INTERNATONAL COOKERY. cuIsINB CUISINE TRANGRE-

See CULIvIANDES INTERLARDING. INTERLARDING. pIQUAcE PIQUAGE DEs DES VIANDES - See CULI-

in other flavouring flavouring in To steep steep herbs herbs or or other INFITsER -- To INFUSE. INFUSER INFUSE. flavour. liquid ab absorbs the flavour. the liquid until the boiling liquid, liquid, until sorbs the boiling custards is is of creams creams and and custards Milk used used in in the the preparation of Milk lemon or orange or lemon or orange cinnamon" or flavoured by infusing vanilla, cinnamon, by infusing flavoured rind in in it. it. rind preparation of flavoured by by the the sauces is is flavoured of sauces Wine used usod in in the the preparation Wine
SOI

Canada cuIsINE Alr{EnIcArxeCOOKERY. CUISINE AMERICAN COOKERY. AMERICAN AMRICAINE - Canadadespite the Canada despite cooking persist home cooking Traditions of of home Traditions persist in in Canada the The elsewhere. The on convenience convenience foods growing dependence dependence on growing foods elsewhere. part of of which part to which varies according of home type of home cooking varies according to came from. Europe the the family originally came from. and The Huron Huron and offer. The little to to offer. The native inhabitants had little lived embers, and in the and lived the embers, beans in cooked their their beans Iroquoi Indians cooked Iroquoi maize, to to and crushed crushed maize, of water water and made of mainly on a porridge made pork trotter stew trotter stew However, pork meat. However, or meaL which they added fish or Indian origin. origin. of Indian is sa said is id to be of European rather European or rather cookery, or European cookery, is European it is Otherwise it of Canadian Canadian the basis basis of forms the that forms provincial cookery that provincial Newfoundland, shores of of Newfoundland, the shores and on on the cuisine.In cuisine. In Labrador, and and Swabia and of Mecklenburg, Swabia specialities of rediscover specialities we rediscover we that reigns English cookery that it is is English Elsewhere, it Switzerland. Eisewhere, Switzerland. French Canada guards whole of of French the whole naturally the And naturally supreme. And supreme. regional dishes dishes of France' the traditional traditional regional secrets of of the the secrets the communireligious communiCertain religious of Normandy. Certain those of especially those eSI,ecially forgotten, since fOf'gottelt1. possess old recipes long since still possess ties in in Canada still ties by the the Ursuline France: a a type type of gingerbread made by in France: even in even for .., example. nuns of of Quebec, Quebec, for Duns .... 'UL.'1J, .... game; reserves of of game; immense reserves with immense country, with rich country, is a a rich Canada is Canada goats of of the the and the the goats moose, and caribou, moose, eat bear, bear, caribou, the Canadians Canadians eat the lakes. innumerable lakes. in the the innumerable Fish abound abound in Rocky Mountains. Mountains. Fish Rocky These grow in in abundance. abundance. These barley grow oats and and barley maize, oats Wheat, maize, Wheat, part of principal part most CanaCanaof most form the the principal cereals form energy-giving cereals energy-giving publishes Agriculture publishes Ministry of of Agriculture The Ministry meal. The midday meal. dians' midday dians' houseto encourage encourage hou in order order to of cereal cereal recipes, in booklets of booklets sepresentation of cereals. of cereals. their presentation wives to to be be adventurous adventurous in their wives the tree the maple, of the maple, the tree all, the the country of is, above above ail, Canada is, Canada thaws Whenever the the thaws national emblem. Whenever is the the country's country's national that is that sap the sap and the pierced by collectors, and the sap sap collectors, by the is pierced its bark bark is come, its come, to a It is is boiled a boiled to sweet. It slightly sweet. and slightly clear and flows like like water: water: clear flows brown maple maple sugar, light brown with the the light which, together with syrup, which, jams, oelfulniIll1! perfuming and jams, sauces and biscuits, sauces form the the basis basis of cakes, biscuits, of honey. aroma ofhoney. air with with the aroma the Canadian Canadian air the South The cookery cookery of of South America -- The Soutt America and South Central and Central or Portuguese Portuguese Spanish or version of of Spanish America is is aa spicier spicier version America

INTERNATIONAL COOKERY INTERNATIONALCOOKERY

(depending upon anisitu (depending upon tbe the region), region), wrule while tha! that of of Central Central cuisine America, and and of particular, is of Cuba Cuba in in particuJar, is individual individual in in characcharacAmerica, (Cuba boasts ter. (Cuba boasts a a wide wide range range of produce, ail of food food produce, all of of ter. quality.) excellent quality,) excellent Delicately fleshed fleshed fish fish are are caught caught in in the the Caribbean Caribbean Sea Sea Delicately and in in the the Gulf Gulf of Mexico. The The best of Mexico, best of of these theseare are cabrilla, cabrilla, and cabra mora, mora, cherna cherna criaI/a. criolla, and and cherna cherna americana, americana, Tbey They are are cabra all spindle-shaped spindle-shaped and and vividly vividly coloured, coloured. aJl In the the samc same seas seas are are found found fisb fish that that belong belong to to the the same same In family as perch: the as the the perch: rabirrubia, the pargo colorado, the rabirrubia, the pargo colorado, the the family pargo amaril/a, amaiillo, to to name name only only a a few, few. pargo A specics species closely closely related related to to the the above above includes includes the the ronco ronco A carbonero, tbe the boca boca colorada, colorada, the the ronco ronco amarillo, amarillo, the the carbonero, jeniguana, etc, etc. Fish Fish of of the the mackerel mackerel family family also also abound abound in in jeniguana, these wa waters. these ters, All these fish fish are are scrved grilled or served boiled, boiled, grilled or fried, fried. Sorne Some are are Allthese considered more more suitable suitable for for marinating, marinating. considered The oysters oysters caught caught off off the the shores shores of of Cuba Cuba are are delicious, delicious. The They include include a a va(cty variety with with a a completely completely wrute white shell, shell. They Among the the shellfish shellfish is is a giant prawn prawn (sorne (some weigha lype type of of giant weighAmong (14 oz,), g. (14 ing as as much much as 400 g, as 400 prawns are oz.). These These prawns are a a blackishing blue colour colour when when they they emerge emerge from from the the water water but but cooking cooking blue changes them them to to red, red. changes High-quality meat meat is is imported imported from from the the United United States; States; Higb-quality poorer home-produced the poorer home-produced beef beef is is consumed consumed by by the the country country the people. The The latter latter cornes comes from from oxen oxen which, which, working working in in a a hot people, hot yield Jean, country as as they they do, do, yield lean, not very tasly tasty meaL meat. country not very Veal is better, mutton is mediocre, good but pork is of of good mediocre, but pork is Yeal is better, mutton is quality. Poultry Poultry is is scarce scarce and and of of inferior inferior quality quality in in Central quality, America. Eggs, of of course, course, are are also also scarce, scarce. America, Eggs, grows a Cuba grows a wide wide range range of of vegetables, vegetables, many of them Cuba many of similar to to those those found found in in our our markets. similar markets, In ln Central America there plants such are edible edible plants such as as manioc, Chinese potatoes, there are manioc. Chinese pOk'\toes. yams, Indian corn, (the large corn, plantain in yams, Indian plantain (the large banana banana uldd used in cooking), and small Indian Indian pumpkin (cahbaza). There There cooking), and the the small pumpkin (calabaza), grapefruit, citrons, are grapefruit, several varieties are citrons, severa! varieties of of oranges, oranges, lemons, lemollS, sour red and and yellow sour limes, limes, mangoes, mangoes, guavas, guavas, red yellow bananas, bananas, anonas, coconuts, avocado pears, anonas, coconuts, avocado pears, custard eus lard apples, appJes, etc. etc, The special dishes The special dishes of of Central Central Am'erica Am'erica are are all ail highly highly spiced and spiced and most most of of them them contain contain green green peppers. peppers, Fish Fish dishes dishes qdole include include cod cod d la la crole (bacalao (bacalao d la i11 criolla); criol/a), cod cod Biscay-style; Biscay-style, rnarinated West Indian camarones) fried fish ; West marinatedfish; Indian red red prawns prawns ( (camarones) fried in in orl; cherna ; octopus cherna with wi/h onions onions; oc/opus with wi/h pimentos. pimentas, oil; Meat ahearty Meat dishes dishes include include olla ol/a podrida, podrida, a hearty stew stew made made from from a a variety variety of of meats, meats, found found in in the the parts parts of of the the country country of of Iberian lberian origin; origin; sancocho, sancocho, which which is is a a type type of of olh alla podrida; podrida; puchero, a Spanish-style Spanish-style pot-au-feu; pot-au-feu; monteria, monteria, a a chicken crucken and puchero, a tomato tomato hash hash garnished garnished with with yams, yams, potatoes potatoes and and white white Indian corn cobs rice surrounded Indiancom cobs and and served served with with Cuban-style Cuban-stylericesurrounded with with bananas bananas fried fricd in in oil; oil; various various types types of of meat meal balls balls called albondiguillas albondiguillas de de carne; carne; tasajo tasaJo d la la cubaine cubaine (minced (minced cured cured beef in tomato tomato sauce sauce and and served served with with CubanCubanbeef simmered simmered in style style rice rice and and fried fried bananas); bananas); pork pork chops chops Cuban-style, Cuban-slyle, or with with rice, rice, or or d I'espagnole; l'espagnole; marinated marinated rabbit; rabbil; tarnales. lamales, Nearly Nearly all ail South South American American dishes dishes are are served served with with rice. rice, This is prepared, prepared, Cuban-style, Cuban-style, d la la criole crole or or d h la valencienne. valencienne, This is The vegetable The vegctable specialities specialities of of the the country country include include a a variety variety of of ways ways of of preparing preparing potatoes potatoes which wbich along along with with ricen riee, bananas bananas and and Indian Indian com corn take take the the place place of of our our bread bread and and most most of of our our vegetables vegetabJes in in the the diet diet of of the the natives natives of of the the West West Indies lndies and and Central Central America; America; bananas bananas and and plantain, plantain, eaten eaten raw raw and and used used in in cooking; cooking; Japanese Japanese and and Porto Porto Rican Rican yams, yams, served served braised, braised. or or in in hazelnut hazelnut butter, butter, or or d la la criole; crole; roots roots of of cassava cassava or or manioc manioc prepared prepared like like yams; yams; gombos gombos prepared prepared d I'espagnole l'espagnole or ; avocado or d la i11 criole crole, avocado d la i11 crdole crole or or in in salad, salad, palm palm cabbage cabbage in in salad. salad, The The orchards orchards of of Central Cenlral America America contain contain many many delicious delicious fruits, fruits, most most of ofwhich wruch are are exported exported to to Europe. Europe,
502 502

The large large custard custard apple apple is is the the biggest biggest member member of of the the The anona family, family. This This fruit, fruit, which which can can weigh weigh as much as as much anona as 3 3 kg, kg. (6i lb,) lb.) is is sometimes sometimes called called sour sour sop sop in in English, English. When When it it (61 reaches maturly pleasant aroma, maturity il it exudes exudes a a pleasant aroma. !ts Its dense dense white white reacbes flesh, with with large large black black seeds, seeds, is is slightly slightly acid acid and and a a tasty tasty flesh, beverage is is obtained obtained by by crushing pulp and crushing the the pulp and mixing mixing it it with with beverage four or or five five times times ilS its volume volume of of water. water. four (small custard Anonas (small custard apples) apples) are are shaped shaped rather rather like like Anonas artichokes. The The crcam-coJoured cream-coloured flesh flesh is is sweet sweet but rather but rather artichokes, insipid. They They are are eaten raw. eaten raw. insipid, The mamey mamey of grow to of Santo Santo Domingo Domingo can can grow to the The the size size of of a a small melon, yellow. It melon. Ils Its skin skin is is truck thick and and its its flesh flesh yellow, It con contains small tains a very very large stone. Ca large stone, Called the apricot apricot of of the the Tropics, Tropics, il it has, has, a lied the apart from from the pulp, no the col colour of its its pulp, no similarity similarity to to Ihis this fruit. fruit. apart our of The fruit fruit is is usually usually stewed, stewed. A A certain certain bitterness bitterness remains remains The whatever method preparation is method of of preparation is chosen. chosen. whatever The red red mamey, mamey, despite despite its its name, name, belongs belongs to to a a different different The family. Its Its other other name name in in Central Central America America is is sapota. sapota. The The family, skin of tbis this fruit fruit is is woody woody and and iL~ its strawberry-coloured strawberry-coloured flesh flesh skin has the consistcncy consistency of a a ripe banana, banana. It is is usually eaten eaten raw, raw. has Guavas come come in in several several varieties, varieties. Sorne Some are are orangeorangeGuavas shaped, others pear-shaped, others others pear-shaped, others again again look look like large figs, figs. shaped. The ~esh generally eaten is insipid and and is is generally raw. It may also eaten raw. also be be The flesh is jellies. stewed or made into jellies, stewed shape according to their species, species. Usually Mangoes vary in shape pears both they resemble pears both in in colour colour and and shape, Their pulp is shape. Their they juicy but slightly bitter in in flavour. flavour. very juicy citron is is the the biggest biggest fruit fruit of the the lemon family, family. This The citron fruit is hardly hardly ev ever It is usually preserved. fruit cr eaten raw. raw, Il preserved, grapefruit is the biggest fruit of the orange family, The grapefruit family. In it is called either erther pomelos, English pomelos, or by its EngJish Central America it name. name, Kumquats are small fruits of the orange orange family. Kumquats family, They are eaten raw like about the size and shape of olives and may be ealm almonds since their skin is tender and not bitter. They may stewed, or pickled also be stewed. pickled in vinegar. From the Argentine (Spanish influence) to Brazil (PortuArgentine (Spanish guese guese influence), from Peru to Bolivia the same dishes (with (with only slight variations) appear again and only variations) and the same spices spices appear again. again, Beer and rum are drunk in Columbia, excellent beer beer and chica in Bolivia. Bolivia, There Thcre are vineyards in the Argentine, Argentine, and Uruguay and Peru. Peru, Chile is the largest wine-producing wine-producing area (see WINES), (see WINES). United StatesStates- The The history history of of cooking cooking of of the the United United States is closely closeJy related to to the history history of the country. country, When the early settlen settlers arrived, arrived, they found the the Indians, Indians, who had had been been living living off off the the land land for for centuries, eating eating the the animals animais and and birds birds of of the the plains plains and and forests; foresls; fish fish and shellfish shellfish from from the the seas, seas, lakes, fruits and nuts; nuts; a a great lakes, rivers and streams; and wild fruits variety of of greens, greens, and corn (maize). (maize), Most Most of the the settlers, seulers, beginning in the the 1500s, 1500s, followed followed beginning with with the the Spanish Spanish explorers explorers in by in the the 1600s, 1600s, and and not not long long after, the the Dutch, by the the British British in French, French, Germans, Gerrnans, and and Scandinavians, Seandinavians, arrived arrived in the the New New World native plants plants to to start a a World with with domestic domestic animals animais and native new new life life comparable comparable to 10 the the one one they Ihey had had left left behind. behind, Many Many of of them them incorporated incorporated into into their their traditional traditional eating habits habits certain certain Indian Indian foods, foods, especially especially corn. corn, By By the the nineteenth nineteenth century, century, people people from from every every corner corner of of the the globe globe had had come come to to this this country, country, settling seuling in in different different areas. areas, Thus Thus regional regional cooking cooking in in the the United United States States can can be be attributed attributed in in part part to to the the resources resources of ofan an area, area, but but also also to to the the people people who who settled seuled there Ihere and and adapted adapted their their native native cooking cooking habits habits to to what what nature nature had had to to offer. offer. Many Many factors factors enter enter into into the the American American gastronomical gastronomical picture. important are the the natural natural resources resources of of the the picture, Most Most important whole country, modern modern food food handling handling and and rapid rapid transportatransportawhole country, tion, tion, food food technology, technology, nutritional nutritional emphasis, emphasis, and and comcommunication. munication,

INTERNATIONAL INTERNATIONAL COOKERY COOKERY

The climatic climatic and and geographical geographical conditions conditions of of the the United United The Statesare are so sovaried varied that that from from the the fertile fertile valleys, valleys, vast vast forests forests States and plains, plains, lakes, lakes, rivers rivers and and streams, streams, and and extensive extensive coastal coastal and regions, almost almost every every food food known known to to man man can can be be produced produced regions, With modern modern technology, technology, the the produce produce of of witbin its its borders. borders. With within any one one section section of ofthe the country country can can be be enjoyed enjoyed in in any any other. other. any For example, example, oranges oranges and and grapefruit grapefruit grown grown in in Florida Florida or or For California are are sold sold in in every every State State in in the the Union. Union. Maine Maine California lobsters are are served served in in Texas, Texas, and and oysters oysters and and crabs crabs from from lobsters in Chicago. Chicago. This This means means that that very very Maryland are are served served fresh fresh in Maryland few foods foods are are unique unique to to any any one one area, area, but but there there are are still still few as their their own' own. To To special dishes dishes that that certain certain localities localities claim claim as special mention a a few. few, baked baked beans beans and and brown brown bread bread belongs belongs to to mention Boston, and and lobster lobster stew stew to to Maine. Maine. Fried Fried chicken, chicken, hominy hominy Boston, grits and and pecan pecan pie pie are are at at home home south south of of the the Mason-Dixon Mason-Dixon grits line; roast roast pork pork tastes tastes best best in in Iowa; Iowa; and New New Orleans Orleans is is line; where one one finds finds the tbe best best Creole Creole cooking. cooking. where Food technology, technology, which which concerns concerns itself itself in part with the the Food of food, takes takes much much of the hard processing and and packaging packaging of processing work of food food preparation preparation out of the tbe home or restaurant restaurant work kitchen. This, This, together together with witb country-wide distribution, distribution, kitchen. tends to to standardise American food. The whole country is tends highly nutrition-conscious. nutrition-conscious. Great emphasis emphasis is placed placed on the mineral higb vitamin and minerai importance of eating foods with high importance for its quite as as much and sold mucb for sold quite content; food is advertised and food value value as as for for its its enjoyment. enjoyment. Food'fads Foodfads extolling the food and come and food or health-giving properties or another come properties of one one food health-giving gO,but nutritional health remain go, but the basic requirements for nutritional constantly in the minds of most Americans, professional and constantly domestic, who plan meals. subThe business, with contributing submain contributing with its its main The food food business, One divisions, represents a major industry. One of American industry. major part of books, magazine subdivision magazine with cook cookbooks, communication, with is communication, subdivision is proarticles, television proradio and and television columns, radio newspaper columns, articles, newspaper grammes of and preparation of grammes ail all dealing with the production and gourmets who who food. The United of gounnets share of its share can boast its States can United States strive communicamedia of of communicavarious media the various strive constantly, through the try. tions, to raise country. of the the coun gastronomic standards standards of raise the the gastronomic most Hotels as in in most States, as United States, in the the United restaurants in Hotels and and restaurants In countries, luxurious. In most luxurious. the most to the simplest to the simplest from the range from countries, range Francisco, large and San San Francisco, York, Chicago New York, Chicago and as New cities such such as large cities there food from from in food specialise in which specialise restaurants which are many many restaurants there are other resgenerally, the the better better reslarge cities cities generaUy, In large countries. In other countries. taurants international with international cooking with American cooking combine American taurants combine cooking, predominant ininthe predominant having the variety having French variety the French cooking, the fluence. breadth length and and breadth the length across the and across cities and Outside the the cities fluence. Outside of restaurants inns, restaurants small inns, of small thousands of are thousands there are country there of the the country and in specialising in establishments specialising of the the establishments hotels. Sorne Some of and botels. regional reputations. national reputations. attained national have attained cookery have regional cookery Peculiarly to dedicated to eating-places dedicated the eating-places are the American are Peculiarly American eating possible. aspossible. money as little money foras as little possible for quickly as aspossible asquickly eating as These quick-order meals mealsare are where quick-order lunch counters counters where include luncb These include served, from aa servethemselves themselves from customersserve wherecustomers cafeteriaswhere served, cafeterias ri ety of wide hamburger andhamburger hot-dogand ubiquitous hot-dog theubiquitous foods, the variety of foods, wide va stands, patronsin in topatrons areserved served to mealsare wheremeals and drive-ins drive-ins where stands,and their theircars. cars. Certain surprise thatsurprise habits that gastronomical habits American gastronomical Certain American visitors people mostpeople withwhicb whichmost thespeed speed with arethe country are tothe thecountry visitors to eat, plate, onaaplate, togetheron areserved servedtogether thatare foodstbat numberof offoods eat,tbe the number the vegeandvegejelliesand meatand withmeat servod with conserves served andconserves sweetjellies the sweet tables, These produceused. used.These quantities of ofdairy dairy produce great quantities and the thegreat tables, and are of thenature natureof butthe characteristics, but Americancharacteristics, areadmittedly admittedlyAmerican the population, ofits itspopulation, natureof internationalnature theinternational country,and andthe thecountry, make cookery such, as such, cookeryas States UnitedStates defineUnited todefine impossibleto makeititimpossible other producingand and ofproducing capableof Americaisiscapable thatAmerica thanto tosay saythat otherthan cooking American FavouriteAmerican world.Favourite foodin intbe theworld. thefinest finestfood cookingthe foods corn lobster,corn chicken,lobster, ham,cbicken, chops,ham, lambchops, steaks,lamb foodsare: are:steaks, on cream. pieand ice cream. andice cob,apple applepie onthe thecob,
503 503

When When Spanish Spanish monks monks planted planted a a few few vines vines around around Los Los little had they century, eighteenth in the Angeles idea that that Angeles in the eighteenth century, they had little idea 200years 200 years later la ter America America would would be be the the second second biggest biggest winewineproducing in the the world. world. producing continent continent in (thanks however ago, century It It was was not not until until a a century ago, however (thanks to to a a Hungarian Hungarian called called Harszthy) Harszthy) that that California California became became the the centre of the the American American wine wine industry. industry. centre of American as 'dry'wines 'dry' wines (white (white or or red red American wines wines are are classified classified as or 'dessert' and wines 14), and 'sweet' 'sweet' or 'dessert' wines. wines. wines not not exceeding exceeding l4'), Some of the the grower; grower; others others have have European European Sorne bear bear the the name name of names. names. States. A of alcohol a1cohol is is consumed consumed in in the the United United States. A great great deal deal of also homeThis This ls is mainly mainly derived derived from from cereals' cereals. There There is is also home*!gl9' produced produced gin gin and and imported imported Scotch Scotch whisky. whisky. fu On q. the whole, however, Bourbon whisky whisky which whicb however, Americans Americans prefer prefer their their own own Bourbon is distilled distilled from from maize, maize, or or Canadian Canadian rye rye whisky. whisky.

jam: gerllte gefiillte Tascherl Tascherl with jam: pastries filled filled witb Small pastries Small
(p6tisserie viennoise) viennoise) (ptisserie

Austrian AUTRIcHIENNE - Austrian cursINE AUTRICHIENNECOOKERY. CUISINE AUSTRIAN COOKERY. AUSTRIAN Oriental and Oriental German and Italian, Gennan contains ltalian, and contains refined and is refined cuisine is cuisine Hungarian of Hungarian isof goulasch' which which is The traditional traditional goulasch, influences. The influences. sauce, thin sa very thin in aavery beefcooked ofsaut6ed consists of origin, consists origin, sauted beef cooked in uce, also served served peppers are arealso peppers. Sweet Sweet peppeTS garnistred with sweet peppers. with sweet garnisbed with made with It is ismade known.It wellknown. is weil beef is boiled beef Viennese boiled rt,rffed. Viennese stuffed. and salads and by saJads isaccompanied accompanied by and is meat and tender meat well-hung, tender well-hung, escalope, vealescalope, is aa veal Wiener-schnitzel is iompotes. Wiener-schnitzel various compotes. various butter. inclarified clarifiedbutter. friedin thenfried breadcrumbed, tben breadcrumbed, pastries: puddingsand andpastries: ofpuddings country of all the thecountry isabove above ail Austria is Austria known. wellknown. areweil andSacher-lOrte Sacher-torteare torrcand Linzertorte Mehlspeisen, Linzer Mehlspeisen, with boundwitb eggsbound andeggs flourand quenelles made of flour madeof arequenelles Nockerl are Nockerl more andmore butsweeter sweeterand Baden but ofBaden Spdtzle of theSpiitzle similarto to tbe milk, similar milk, served poppyseeds and andserved with poppyseeds aresprinkled sprinkled with They are delicate.They delicate. out rolledout doughrolled verystiff stiffdough ofaavery consists of Strudelconsists with cream. cream.Strudel with kindofapple of apple of akind layersofa withlayers andover overwitb foldedover overand thenfolded thinlythen thinly pancakewhich whichisis jam.Kaiser-schmarren sweetpancake thicksweet Kaiser-schmarrm isisaathick jam. ofthese these Thetriumpb firms.Tbe triumphof panas mixturefinns. asthe themixture inthe thepan divided in divided pruneswitb with isthe Zchwetschgen-kniidel - - prunes theZchwetschgen-knodel Viennesesweets sweetsis Viennese ina a wrappedin thenwrapped sugar,then ofsugar, lumpsof bylumps replacedby theirstones stonesreplaced their fried. pastryand potatopastry andfried. veryligbt lightpotato very quantitiesof red ofred Largequantities lager.Large anexcellent excellentlager. makesan Austriamakes Austria European CentralEuropean produced. See See alsoproduced. arealso winesare whitewines andwhite Central and section. inthis thissection Cookeryin Cookery .
the Belgiumisisthe BELGE- - Belgium cutsINEBELGE COOKERY.CUISINE BELGIAN BELGIANCOOKERY. suband cityand ofthe the The citizens fairs'.The 'puddingfairs'. of'pudding country citizens of city subcountryof celebrating dayscelebrating three spendthree forexample, example, Bruisels,for spend days urbs oiBrussels, urbsof although for great food,for love of with countrywith aa country aa great love of food, although theirs. theirs.ItItisis French ofFrench delicaciesof thedelicacies tothe wholeheartedlyto surrendering surrenderingwholeheartedly his own faithfultoto has remained gourmet Belgiangourmet cuisine, the Belgian bas remained faithful bis own the cuisine, and spring vert au eel include These eel au vert (a(a spring and national incJude specialities.These nationalspecialities. celebrated whichthe the for carbonnade Flemish dish); carbonnade for which celebra ted summer Flemish summerdish);

INTERNATIONAL COOKERY COOKERY INTERNATIONAL

national beer, beer, gueze larnbic, seems specially designed; national choezels au au madire; fricadelles bruxefoises (fried mince choezels balls); l'oie l'oiedl'instar I'instar deVis (goose Vis6-style); hochepot Yisi(goose balls); gantois (Ghent (Ghent hotchpot); hotchpot); kouyn pruneu (rabbit with kouynmet metpruneu gantois prunes),essentially essentially aaFlemish Flemishdish; dish;hop hopshoots; shoots;Brussels prunes), Brussels pdt6namurois mdjvg; pt (Namurbrioche namuroisbrioch briochb (Namur brioche pastry pie); endive; andthe thesucculent succulent dishes dishesdla (calves'kidneys, lirks, hligeoise liigeoise(calves' and crayfish, etc.) etc.)which whichfor for many many food foodloyers loversare arethe the jewels of Belgian cuisine. cuisine. The Thesauces sauces are areail allseasoned seasonedpredominantly predominantly juniper berries, with juniper givingthe berries, giving thedishes dishesaadistinctive distinctive flavour. flavour. Oneof of Belgium's Belgium'snational national dishes dishesis iswaterzoii One waterzoii (spouting water). Once Oncemade madeof of fish fish from from the theFlemish Flemish coast, water). coast, it now consists of of chickens chickens from from the the fannlands, farmlands, especially consists especially those those round Ghent. Ghent. It It is isalso also one one of of the the most most ancient ancient of round ofBelgian belgian dishes. Legend Legend has has it it that that Charles Charles V Vconsidered considered it dishes. it one oneof ofthe the (and there best (and painting in there is is aa painting in humorous humorous vein best vein by by Herbo Herbo to to illustrate this). this). iIlustrate Brillat-Savarin, once once initiated initiated into into the the delights Jjr:IlHllI-~~a\larm. delights of of Belgian Belgian cuisine, geatly enjoyed waterzoii, waterzoii, Namur Namur pie, pie, and and the thedishes dishes distinctly Latin flavour yith aa distinctly flavour such such as as those with those d la h ligeoise. liigeoise. L'oie d l'instar I'instar de Visi surprised dc Vis surprised but did not but did L'oie not tempt tempt him. him. The The origin of of the the recipe, although comparatively comparatively recent, origin recent, is is much much disputed. It It is is said to owe its creation creation to disputed. police to an an angry police inspector who, years ago, who, sixt sixty ago, was was in inspector Y years in charge of police police headquarters in in the the channing charming Meuse Meuse village village of Vise. One headquarters One day day he was called upon was called upon to to settle settle a a dispute dispute concerning goose that he concerning a a goose that had wandered wandered onto onto the the public highway highway and had and been been run run over over by by a carter. carter. The The owner goose demanded owner of the the goose a demanded nine nine francs francs compensation from from the the carter carter and and said said that compensation that he he could could keep keep the the dead bird. bird. The The carter carter refused refused to pay more dead to pay more than than six six francs francs said, the goose goose was was no no use since, he said, use to to him. 'As you do do not wish wish to to have the bird,' 'As bird,' the police mspec:tor inspector said to to the the carter, carter, 'pay him him the the six six francs francs you have offered.' .As for you, Then he he said to to the owner of the goose, goosg 'As you, since you are detennined determined to yourself of the to rid rid yourself the creature, creature, here are this fellow's fellow's six six francs francs and here are and here are three three from from me. me. That That makes which is you asked. is the the amount makes nine, which amount you asked. l'li I'll take take the the goose myself.' The police inspector took the goose home and prepared it The i" way. He in tlrg the following way. He trussed and and placed placed it in a a large cooking pot, together with the giblets, and and covered covered it wiih salted water. This was brought to the boil and skimmed. He addod_2 added 2 heads heads of garlic, some sorne onion, onion, a few carrots, a a bouquet garni,2 garni, 2 cloves cloyes and several several white white peppercorns. pepperc:orns. When When the bird was was cooked, cooked, he carefully jointed it it and simmered the the pieces gently in equal parts of goose fat and butter. butter. He He then then made made a a white wrute roux from from goose fat, flour, and and a little little goose goose stock. This, when when boiled, boiled, produced produced a a rather rather thick truck sauce. sauce. He He then then added added 4 4 egg egg yolks, a fav few pats pats of of butter, butter, and and cream. cream. He He sieved sieved the the sauce, sauce, and tossed tossed in in a few few cloves cl oves of of garlic garlic previously previously cooked cooked in in milk. milk. Finally Finally he he arranged arranged the the goose portions on on a a large large plate plate and and poured poured the the sauce over over goose portions them. them. Another Another recipe recipe appears appears under under GOOSE. GOOSE.
The rtche: Thenational nationalptisserie pdtisserie specialityisis ritiche:flaky pastry flakypastry stuffed or stuffedwith withvegetables, vegetables,cheese cheese or fruit.Hungarian Hungarianwines winesare are excellent, excellent,the themost mostfamous famousbeing beingTokay. Tokay.There Thereisisalso alsoan an apricot apricotliqueur liqueurcalled calledbarack. barack. Beer (Pilsen)isisthe Beer(Pilsen) thenational nationalbeverage beveragein inCzecboslovalda. Czechoslovakia. Pork, Porlga abeef pot-au-fan(hovesy beefpot-au-feu (hovesymaso), potatoes,goose, maso),potatoes, goose,and and cabbage cabbageare arethe thestaple staplefoods. foods. The TheOrient Orienthas hasbeen beenthe themain maininfluence influencein inRumanian Runanian cookery, cookery, which which isisbased basodon porkand onfish, fish,pork game.The andgame. Thewines wines are areexcellent. excellent. Bulgarian Bulgariancookery cookery is isaa blend blend of Turkishand ofTurkish Russian andRussian influences. influences.Tchorba Tchorba soup yogurt reign soupand andyogurt reignsupreme. supreme.There There is is aaplum plumspirit spiritcalled calledslivovitz. slivovitz. Yugoslavian Yugoslavian cookery cookery is isas asvaried varied as asthe theraces racesand andthe the climate. climate. Serbs, Serbs, Croats, Croats, Slovenes Slovenes and and Bosnians Bosnians ail all eat eat H",ne."r,,,n stews, Italian pastas and Turkish pastries, and Hungarian stews, Italian pastas and Turkish pastries, and drink beer and andwine. wine. In InGreece, Greece, there there is isbeef beefin in the the north, north Jean leanmutton mutton in inthe the south, south, fish, fish, olive oliveoil, (see Turkish oil,mzs mizis (see Turkish cookery cookery below) below) and and ouzo (the raki of the other Mediterranean coast) everywhere. ouzo (the raki of the other Meditenanean coast) everywhere. Greek Greek wines wines are are generally very sweet. sweet.Samos S.amos is is one oneof of them, counterpart of the hVIr!n)mel hydromel of of the the Ancient Ancient Greeks. Greeks. Retsina is flavoured with resin.

importance 11'",... ,.-"rt",nf'p and and distinction distinction comes cornes lfungary, symbolised symbolised for for goulasch vsby and paprika. paprika. The The latter, latter, however, is is a a recent recent us goulasch and innovation, innovation, dating dating from from the the Turkish Turkish occupation. occupation. paprikaPaprikaflavoured flavoured dishes dishes include include goulasch goulasch (meat (meat soup soup or or ltew), stew), pdrkdlt porkolt (a (a thicker thicker stew stew in in which which onion onion predominates), predominates), tokany tokany (with (with the the meat meat thinly thinly sliced); sliced); paprikaihe paprikache (stew (stew made made with with white white meat meat or or fish fish and and flavoured flavoured with with sour sour cream) cream) and and szekelygylyas szekelygylyas (pork, solu sour crearn cream and and sauerkraut\. sauerkraut). Chanlctlem;t1c ingredients ingredients of of Hungarian Hungarian cuisinc cuisine are are pork pork Characteristic and andgoose goosefat, fat, and and large largequantities quantitiesof ofonion. onion. Thefogas Thefagasof ofLake LakeBalaton Balatonis isaafamous famousvariety varietyof offish. fish.

CENTRAL CENTRAL EUROPEAN EUROPEAN AND AND BALKAN BALKAN COOKERY. COOKERY. cuIsINE CUISINE DE DE L'BURopE L'EUROPE cENTRALE CENTRALE ET ET DEs DES BALKANS BALKANS _ - First First in in

.China and CHINESE CHINESE COOKERy. COOKERY. CUISINE cursrNE CHINOISE cHrNorsn -- 'China and two peoples to France,' Curnonsky said, 'are 'are the peoples the only only two to have have created a a culsme caisitu that is is inseparably linked linked with with good manners ners and and courtesy.' courtesy.' Since Since the the time of the Celestial Celestial Empire, the Chinese art and an Chinese have have considered considered their their cuisine czisine an anartand an important important expression expression of of their their country's country's civilisation. civilisation. Chinese Chinese cookery cookery in in restaurants restaurants abroad abroad may may not not be be a a true true reflection reflection of of the the original. Preparation is a painstaking business, business, with with the the cook carefully scooping out bones and shr'edodInlg shredding fowl, fowl, meat meat and and fish fish into into strips that can be easily m2lnI]pulatfx1 manipulated by by chopsticks. These These existed a a long long time time before before Europe Europe had had the the fork, and and are are made made of of bamboo, bamboo, blackwood, blackwood, ivory, silver or plastic. silver or Most Most of of the the dishes dishes are are common common to to the the whole whole of of China, China. with with rice rioe as principal ingredient. as the the principal ingredient. Besides Besides taking taking the place the place of of bread, bread, it it can can be be a a main main course, course, an an accompaniment, accompaniment, steamed, boiled or fried. Northern China (including Peking) steamed, boiled or fried. Northern China (including peking) is where highly is highly seasoned seasoned dishes dishes are are to to be be found; found; Nankin, Nankin, "''''''''!5'''''1, Shanghai, central China prefer sweet China and and Szechuan Szechuan prefer sweet dishes. dishes. Canton, Canton, in the the south, south, is is the the gastronomic capital capital of of China. China. The soya bean is the basic ingredient. Soy The soya bean is the other basic ingredient. Soy sauce sauce (cho-you) the Vietnamese Vietnamese nuoc the reasons reasons (cho-you) like like the nuoc nam, nam, is is one one of of the is described as 'a form of why Chinew Chinese cuisine why cuisine is described as 'a form of dietetics, dietetics. 5,000 years old'. old'. 5,000 ne st and shark 's fin soup are based Salangane's nest sottp and shark's fm sorry are based on on chicken stock. stock. The The classical method method of of cooking cooking is is by by chicken steaming. Eel, Eel, goose goose and and duck duck are are cooked cooked in in this tbis way. way. A A steaming. philosopher, Lao Lao Tesu, Tesu, once once said: said: 'Govem 'Govern the the Empire Empire as as philosopher, carefuUy as as you you would would cook cook a a small small fish.'The fish.' The fruits fruits of of the the sea sea carefully much respected in in China. China. are much are twenty-four hours hours in in advance) advance) LacEtered duck (preparod twenty-four with pineapple, pineapple, is a a great great classical classical dish. Chicken is prepared with is ,.,,""hr .......... n-'" or in sweetalmonds, bamboo bamboo shoots, Chinese mushrooms almonds, or in sweetand-sour sauce sauce (like (like pork). and-sour Only a a glass glass of ofwarm wann yellow wine (rice wine) is drunk with Only the meal. me al. Jasmine Jasmine tea tea is served afterwards. It has the been known there there since since the the year 2000 n.c. There are two known main of tea: green tea types of tea: green tea (tsing tcha) which is dried in the sun, red tea tea which which is is artificially dried and destined for export. and red It is is practically practically impossible Im]posslb,le to imitate Chinese It cookery outside the the Far Far East, East, but dishes dishes can can be be give'n given a 'Chinese outside a 'Chinese flavour' using such products as rice, soya beans, spices, flavour' by using such products as rice, soya beans, spices, or scented scented mushrooms mushrooms (sold (sold dried dried in food ginger, black or in food that specialise specialise in in exotic exotic foods). foods). Swallows' Swallows' nests and shops that nests and
504
Lambon onskewers skewers with bacon, tomatoes, lemon and peppers (Phot. Nicolas) Lamb with bacon, tomatoes, lemon and pepperc (phot. Nicolas)

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INTERNATIONAL COOKERY COOKERY INTERNATIONAL

Dutch cookery cookery Dutch

Fruit Fruit pudding pudding (Claire) (Claire)

Soup with Soupwith meat balls ballsand rneat and vermicelli vermicelli

pancakes in packets. sharks' fins fins are are sold sold tinned, tinned, rice rice pancakes in packets. sharks' Sauerkrautis origin. of Chinese origin. Sauerkraut is ofChinese

DUTCH COOKERY. COOKERY. CUISINE cursrNE HOLLANDAISE HoLLANDATSE -- Dutch DUTCH Dutch cookery is is closely closely related related to to that that of cookery of Belgium Belgium and and north north Germany. Being a pasture lands, country of rich pasture a country of rich lands, there Gennany. there is is an an abundance of high quality dairy high quality produce, and dairy produce, abundance and a a feature feature of of the large large towns towns is is the parlours (melksalons), (melksalons), which the milk milk parlours the which also sell sell excellent excellent sandwiches. sandwiches. Holland's Holland's rich produce duce rich dairy dairy pro goes into into its its superb superb cheeses, cheeses, which which represent represent one goes one of of the the country's largest largest exports. (edammerkaas), exports. Edam country's Edam cheese cheese (edammerkaas), Purmerend and and Alkmaar cheeses cheeses are Punnerend are spherical spherical in in shape shape and and painted red. red. Another Another famous (goudschepainted famous cheese cheese is is Gouda Gouda (goudschekaas), a a cream cream cheese kaas), cheese manufactured mostly mostly in in the the south south of of is shaped shaped like like a Holland. It is a flattened flattened cylinder cylinder with with rounded rounded ends. Holland is Holland is a a country country equally equally devoted devoted to to stock stock fanning farming and fishing, fishing, so and so the Dutch table the Dutch table features features a a wide wide variety variety of of charcuteries and charcuteries and salted salted and and smoked smoked fish. fish. The The oysters oysters of of Zealand Zealand are of excellent quality. excellent quality. proverb which There is 'Haring in't is a a Dutch proverb which says: in't land, says:'Haring land, dokter aan dokter aan de 'As long de kant': kant': 'As long as as the herring is the herring is there, there, the the stays away.' doctor stays away.' Herring is is the the staple staple food food of of the the Dutch Dutch people. (Herring fishing people. fishing was was transferred transferred to to deeper deeper waters enclosure of after the enclosure In 1965 Zuyder Zee. of the Zuyder Zee.In 1965 the total catch catch amounted to ta 450 million fish.) fish.) So it is is not surprising that the the herring is is the the centre-piece centre-piece of countless countless feasts. feasts. One One of of these is the 'New Hollanders' is Hollanders' (first fishing of the year) celebrated the year) celebrated in gaily decorated coastal coastal villages. The first first barrel of herring of herring is offered to the queen. In restaurants specialising in in French food, food, the the favourite favourite (hazepeper), , and dishes are jugged hare (hazepeper) dishes and veal escalope escalope with sauce brnnoise, brunolse, accompanied by potatoes and peas. Cheese and peas. Cheese with butter butter and small salted crackers. Rice is is usually served served with is imported in large large quantities from the fonner imported former Dutch colonies colonies . and often appears in both savoury and sweet dishes. From Indonesia Indonesia cornes From comes excellent coffee, coffee, tea, tea, and and high and chocolate. The love good quality cocoa and good coffee The Dutch love and drink drink it often, from small porcelain porcelain coffee cups. Apart from from their their own own national national beer, Apart beer, the the Dutch Dutch drink drink French and and Rhine Rhine wines. wines. They famous liqueur: French They have have a a famous Curaao (Wynand (Wynand Fockink), which is sold Curagao which is sold in in big-bellied, narrow-necked ceramic ceramic fl flagons. narrow-necked agons.
COOKERY. cursrNE CUISINE ANcLArsts ANGLAISE - The essence ENGLISH COOKERY. essence of of lies in in choosing ingredients of English cookery lies of the the finest finest and texture quality and cooking them so that their flavour and are fully [ully developed. developed. This is done with the the minimum ad~i~ion are addition of ingredients to mask the fine natural taste taste of of the the orIgmal of original food. food. producer of of beef, beef, mutton, mutton, lamb, England has long long been been a a producer England pork, pheasant, pheasant, grouse, grouse, partridge, partridge, duck, duck, salmon, salmon, so.le, pork, sole, plaice, turbot, halibut, butter and cheese, cheese, etc., etc., of of a a quahty plaice, quality unsurpassed anywhere anywhere else else in in the the world. world. Dishes Dishes from from these the se unsurpassed 505 505
Leg of ofsalt-meadow mutton (Pftot. (Phol. Nicolas) Nicolas) salt-meadow mutton Leg

prime materials prime materials cooked grilling,frying by roasting, roasting,grilling, cooked by frying or orbaking baking give food can be relied relied on can be on to to give food which which is good to is not not only onlygood toeat eat but but is is also also easily easily digested. digested. pies and Puddings, Puddings, pies and tarts tarts are part of are another another important important part of English great many English cooking. cooking. A A great many different different recipes recipes for for baked, baked, boiled puddings using boiled and and steamed steamed puddings using mainly flour, fat, fat, mainly flour, eggs given in eggs and and fruit fruit are are given in any any English English basic basic cookery cookery book.book the puddings available the variety variety of of puddings probably greater available is isprobably greater than in than m any any other other country country in in the the world. world. The The main main meal meal of of the the day day usually puddings or usually includes includes one one of of these these puddings or one one with with milk milk as as the pie or pastry the main main ingredient, ingredient, or or it it may may be be aa pie or tart tart having having pastry as as one one of of its its main main ingredients. ingredients. Cakes, Cakes, scones scones and and biscuits biscuits also also feature feature in Englishcookery, in English cookery, and and are are usually usually eaten eaten at at the the tea tea meal meal in in the the late late afternoon. afternoon. There There are plain, are many many varieties, varieties, a number ofwhich a number arefairly fairly plain, of which are having proportion of having a a smaller smaller proportion fat, sugar of fat, sugar and and eggs eggs than than those those of of other other countries. countries. Another Another basic basic constituent constituent of the tea tea meal meal of the is . is thinly thinly sliced sliced brown brown or or white white bread bread and and butter. butter. Vegetable Vegetable cookery cookery is is not not aa highly highly developed developed ~rt art m in England. England. As As long long ago ago as as the the eighteenth eighteenth century century f?relgners foreigners said said that that English English cooks cooks seemed seemed incapable incapable of of turnmg turning out out aa good good vegetable vegetable dish. dish. A A Gennan Moritz in named Moritz German named n 1872 1872 wrote 'An English wrote of his landlady's of his landlady's meal meal that English dinner that'An for such dinner for such lodgers generally consists piece of as 1 I am, lodgers as of half-boiled am, generally consists of of a a piece half-boiled or or half-roasted half-roasted meat plain meat, and and a a few few cabbage cabbage leaves leaves boiled boild in in plain water, pour a water, on on which which they they pour a sauce sauce made made of of flour flour and and butter.' butter.' It It is potatoes as is usual usual for for a a main main meal meal to include potatoes to include as one one of of the the two two vegetables vegetables served, both of of which which are are cooked served, both cooked by by boiling boiling . . . in plenty of in plenty water. of water. Popular dishes justly famous dishes for for which which England England 15 is justly famous mclude include pork pies, pies, the the best best ones ones being being made made in Midlands; bacon in the the Midlands; bacon and and egg egg thin smoked smoked back back rashers rashers lightly lightly fried fried and and served servd - thin with with slices slices of of bread bread crisply crisply fried fried and and a a lightly lightly fried fried egg egg -- a a delicious delicious dish dish whether whether served served for for breakfast, breakfast, lunch lunch or or supper; supper; Lancashire Lancashire hotpot potatoes and hotpot -- a a stew stew of of meat, meat, potatoes and oni~ns onions cooked period in cooked slowly slowly for for a a long long period in the the oven; oven; Comlsh Cornish pasties potato and diced lamb, lamb, potato and shredded shredded ~nion onion cooked cooked in in - diced individual cases pastry and part cases of of short short pastry and served either hot hot as as part served elther of picnic dish. of the the main main meal meal or or cold cold as as a a snack snack or or picnic dish. Other Other delicious pudding, mince delicious specialities specialities are pies, are Christmas Christmas pudding, mince pies, stew stew with with dumplings, pudding, dumplings, Welsh Welsh rarebit, rarebit, Yorkshire Yorkshire pudding, steak (particularly those pudding, and steak and and kidney kidney pudding, and kippers kippen (particularly those cured cured in in wood wood smoke). smoke).

FRENCH FRENCH REGIONAL REGIONAL COOKERY. cursrNs RGIONALEnScroNru: COOKERY. CUISINE Every particular cuisin~, Every French French province has has its its particular cuisine, although although ~ll all so-called so-called regional regional dishes dishes are not necessarily are not necessarily authentIc. authentic. Nevertheless, there Nevertheless, great number genuine French there are are a a great number of of genuine French regional given under regional specialities. specialities. These These are under the the names names of are given of the the provinces listed listed alphabetically. alphabetically. GERMAN GERMAN COOKERY. COOKERY. CUISINE cursrNE ALLEMANDE ALLEMANDE -- There There is is more more to to this this substantial substantial cuisine caisine than than the the dishes dishes we we are are so so

INTERNATIONAL COOKERY COOKERY INTERNATIONAL

Smokeo curry. Smoked its specialities specialities being being chicken curry. flavour, flavour, one of its goose is is eaten eaten dish; goose is a a typical typical Pomeranian dish; breast of goose is everywhere. almost everywhere. Halbe Hahn Hahn called Ha/be on the menu called an item on In the the Rhineland, an roll of of wholemeal a chicken', chicken', but but a a roll does not not mean mean 'half a does filled with Dutch cheese. bread filled country of Sauerkraut. Sauerkraut.ln in the Charcuterie In Charcaterie is important in the country pork cutlets are pork cutlets Hamburg, Hamburg, Gefullte Gefillte Schweinerippchen Schweinerippchen are rum. The The pork currants, apples, apples, biscuits biscuits and and rum. stuffed stuffed with with currants, quality to in quality to that butchers of Holstein have ham comparable in good varieties very good varieties of of of Westphalia; Westphalia; there there are are also also sorne some very served with with Eisbein, which sausage. sausage. ln In Berlin, Berlin, Sauerkraut is is served pea pure. pur6e. pork accompanied by pea is is boiled salted knuckle of pork accompanied by pig are are In In Bremen, feasts dedicated dedicated to to the the honourable pig Bremen, any any feasts (a sausage made of of wheaten wheaten Wurst (a bound to Pinkel-Wursf sausage made to include Pinke/in the the smoked in flour and and diced diced bacon), bacon), and and Oldenburg hams smoked hearth. juniper-flavoured hams Westphalia are are hams of of Westphalia The The smoked smoked juniper-flavoured Mtinsterland. Smoked rivalled by the excellent Smoked excellent charcuterie charcaterie of of Mnsterland. and with savory; bacon and seasoned savory; and is served served with with beans beans and seasoned with bacon is pastry. Mettwurst Mettwurst and there in flaky and is a a sausage sausage wrapped in flaky pastry. there is garnished dried sausage sausage gamished sausage are Saxony; sausage are found in Lower Saxony; is eaten with Hanover is eaten with with horseradish horseradish and and mustard mustard in in Hanover glass of glass of with a a small small glass of Lttje Laage, a a glass of beer beer topped topped with Lilttje Laage, brandy. Hessians, while Smoked a favourite dish dish of of the Hessians. Smoked pork loin loin is a grilled puddings served the with feast upon upon grilled served with the Rhinelanders feast pur6e and and 'Heaven and onions and christened onions mixed mixed with potato pure christened 'Heaven pickled pork pork and Earth'. various and various Earth'. Mainz Mainz offers offers succulent succulent pickled types whole of Palatinate offers offers of sausages, sausages, while while the the whole of the the Palatinate types of poivrade of Schweinepfeffer Kni)del, which of pork a poivrade mit Knode/, which is is a Schweinepfefer mit garnished garnished with quenelles. quenelles. Swabian generous heap is a heap of of cooked cooked Schlachtplatte is a generous Swabian Sch/achtp/atte good as grilled sa usages of meats. are as as as good The grilled sausages of Nuremberg Nuremberg are meats. The those of fat, the the short and Ratisbon and former short and fat, of Ratisbon and Coburg, Coburg, the the former latter thin rolls. Both are rich rich Both are and served servd stuffed stuffed into into bread bread rolls. thin and grilled in In Upper there are are grilled in herbs herbs and and spices. spices. In Upper Bavaria. Bavaria, there pea pure; pig's tongue smoked pork; pig's pig's ear pur6e; pig's with tongue with ear and and pea smoked pork; (grilled Franconian onion; Franconian sausages). sausages). and Rostbratwrste Ro s tbratwilrs te (grilled onion ; and The well known A internationally. A The Hamburger Hamburger Steak is weil known intemationally. Steak is similar veal Holsteiner Schnitze/, similar dish dish is is Ho/steiner Schnitzel, a a breadcrumbed breadcrumbed veal poached egg. escalope, eEE, a topped with with a a poached a escalope, slightly slightly browned. browned, topped grilled grilled sardine, various vegetables, vegetables, sardine, and and surrounded surrounded by by various including in the This is is a festive dish dish in the including cucumbers. cucumbers. This a favourite favourite festive region. Meat balls piquant caper Pomerwith a a piquant caper sauce sauce is is a a Pomerserved with balls served anian Pfefferpotthast, Westphalia is is the the country country of of Pfefferpotthast. anian delicacy. delicacy. Westphalia

German cookery: slices ofblack pudding with Germancoonkertr'rt:ff rounds of sour apple (Claire)

;jrlt:iHl,:f "**

gastronomic map familiar map is is a The German familiar with abroad. abroad. The German gastronomic a tends from reflection of the geographical one, which ex extends from the the one, which North to the the Alps, ch variation, variation, each much North Sea offers mu Alps, and and offers Sea to region offering dishes depending upon upon its its ancestry region offering special special dishes and climate. The soups, like French soups, are mostly the hearty type. Beginning from the north and and working towards the the south, (eel soup) there is which, although although it is Hamburger Aa/suppe Aalsuppe (eel soup) which, gets its name port is, is, in fact, fact, comname from the the great German port, mon to the whole of Schleswig-Holstein. A A typical German soup made of oats. Then is Hafersch/eimsuppe, Haferschleimsuppe, a a consomm consommi made soup is und Poren pea soup Porm which is a a pea Arfensuppe mit Snuten Snutenund there is Arfensuppe flavoured with pig's pig's snout and and trotters. trotters. Another Hamburg Hamburg speciality is garnished with veal, semolina brisket of beef garnished with veal, is brisket quenelles and diced seasonal vegetables. and diced voured wi th a wide variety of herbs. Bremen with flavoured Bremen eel soup is fla (Sp?itzle In Baden there is Spiitz/e soup (Spiitz/e Spiitzle soup In Wurttemberg Wurttemberg and and Baden there is are plain, or filled filled with liver, fresh noodle paste, plain, are squares of fresh ham, many vegetable ham, mushrooms). mushrooms). In In Swabia Swabia there there are are many soups: pea soup, soup, bean bean soup, soup, lentil lentil soup, soup, pea soups: cauliflower cauliflower soup, potato soup. The North Sea and shellshellSea and and the the Baltic provide fresh fish and fish. (or green green Grner Hering) are In Berlin, fresh herring herring (or Grilner Hering) arc fish. In Berlin, fresh eaten fried, potatoes. They They fried, hot or cold, together with jacket potatoes. are The red after they they are are fried. fried. The are sometimes sometimes marinated marinated after herring prized. Another Another outstanding outstanding dish dish is much prized. herring is is also also much herring salad with gherkins and potatoes. Hamburg offers prawns. One offers oysters, oysters, lobster, and and large large prawns. speciality is fried is a frid oysters and Cheshire a Cheshire cheese; cheese; and and there is delicious crayfish soup. soup. Ali All varieties of sea sea and and river fish fish are are found here. Holstein is best known for its tench. At Emden a a veritable meal is herring; while elsewhere along is made of the herring; elsewhere along the there is is smoked smoked fish fish accompanied accompanied by by spirits the coast coast there (schnapps, (schnapps, brandy, etc.). The chefs of of the the The Rhine Rhine is is the the river river for for salmon, salmon, and and the the chefs region preparing it. have many of preparing it. One One of of the the trout trout ways of region have many ways recipes (Forelle in paper-wrappd trout in Papier-Hlle). Papier-Hfille). trout (Fore/le recipes is is paper-wrapped Moselle pike is garnished grated Parmesan. garnished with cream Parmesan. cream and and grated Further south, in Wurttemberg Wurttemberg and and Baden, eels eels and and salmon salmon are served Basle-style, steamed The trout of steamed with with onions. The of the the Black Forest are cooked water, wine wine cooked au an bleu blan in in a a mixture mixture of water, and garnished meltod butter, and vinegar; vinegar; those in melted butter, gamished those of Wiesent in with small potatoes. potatoes. The fish fish of of the Danube are served served in the the same same fashion. In there are are trout trout In the the mountain mountain lakes lakes of of Upper Upper Bavaria there (Saiblinge) and (Renken). variety of salmon (Renken). of salmon and a a variety The The Hamburg Hambwg Stubenkcken spring chickens chickens as as Stubenkfrcken are are spring popular as me city. The ducks eaten eaten in the sa same city. The as the the caponised caponised ducks in the cuisine the ancient town town of of Bremen Bremen has has an an international international anisine of the

Black geteaux with with cmnamon cinnamon Forest Christmas Christmas gteaux Black Forest
(Claire) Ghne\

506 506

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meat cut into small pieces and and boilod cloves, boiled with bay leaf, cloyes, whole onions. and the weight of of the beef beef in on ions. The w hole is then bound generously with pepper. A with breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and seasoned generously fine a tripe and a fine beef stew stew is is produced produced in in Munster, and tripe dish, Soester Wamme,a of Soest, is well Wamme. a speciality ofSoest, weil known throughout the region. In the Kassel veal and mixture of ofveal Kassel district, the speciality is a mixture pork and eaten pork (Weckewerk) (Weckewerk) simmered with with bread bread rolls roUs and cold. Spit roasts are a Rhineland Rhineland delicacy. In upper Nahe, near ldar-Aberstein, Idar-Aberstein, there is the custom of marinating beef for onions and herbs, for rwenty-four twenty-four hours hours in in wine, wine, salt, pepper, pepper, onions before before cooking. cooking. They use a spit spit rod or beechwood, beechwood, and roast over wood wood charcoal. charcoal. In In Stuttgart, there there is is a a unique unique dish called ca lied Gaisburger Gaisburger Marsch, which consists consists of sliced potatoes, such a Sptzle and and beef. beef. These These are are cooked to such a degree cooked to Spdtzle degree of tenderness that they may be eaten with a spoon. Muzzle of tenderness Nuremberg dish. Veal knuckle, boiled, boiled, then beef salad is a Nuremberg grillod, grilled, and and accompanied by by Knddel, Knode/, comes cornes from from around

Munich. Fresh vegetables vegetables accompany almost all ail specialities, specialities. from Schleswig-Holstein to to Hamburg. Hamburg. In In Bremen Bremen a Schleswig-Holstein a sign sign of autumn autumn is the appearance appearance of of Brunten Brunten oder oder gepflilcktm gepflckten Finten, Finten, a a dish dish of white white haricot beans. beans, french french beans. beans, carrots carrots and potatoes. Winter is the season of red red cabbage cookod cooked with bacon, and and ofstuffed of stuffed cabbage. In Berlin, Berlin, favourite favourite dishes are bacon, peas peas with bacon with squares of toasted bread added; and potato pancakes pancakes (grated raw potatoes, or potatoes bound with flour, flour, called called Kartoffelpufer). Kartoffe/puffer). In In summer, summer, Berliners Berliners with of Teltow, and the asparagus asparagus grown grown enjoy the small turnips of the Brandenburg Brandenburg marshes. marshes. on the Westphalia offers a dish made of raw potatoes blended Westphalia buckwheat flour, flour, served fried. The vegetables vegetables grown grown with buckwheat countryside around Brunswick are are tinned and and sold in the countryside throughout the the country; country; the the asparagus asparagus in in particular particular is throughout excellent. The green cabbages of Lower Saxony are served a popular popular sausage stuffed stuffed with with brains. brains. The The Hessen with a region offers Beulsches, Beu/sches, potato potato quenelles quenelles made with with a forceregion of leeks and savoury pudding; and zwiebelkuchen, zwiebe/kuchen, an meat of meat onion cake. cake. onion The staple diet diet of the the people of Wurttemberg is is boiled quenelles. There are many varieties of these, ranging ranging flour quenelles. Spatz/e with added liver, ham, etc., to the MaulMau/from the Spiitzle tasche, a a kind kind of highly highly seasoned canelloni canelloni stuffd stuffed with tasche, brains, veal veal and pork. brains, is the country of Knbdel Knode/ (potato balls). Upper Bavaria Bavaria is Upper breadcrumbs, are varied varied by by the the addition addition of white breadcrumbs, These are liver stuffing, stuffing, or bacon. liver There are are also also the the small round round cumin-flavoured cumin-flavoured cheeses of There Harz; the the Hessian Hessian Schmierkiise Schmierkase (a white white cheese cheese blended with Harz; green sauce sauce containing con taining nine nine varieties varietie:; of of herbs); cream cream cheese cheese greelr made of ewes' milk, from the Palatinate, Palatinate, including that of made caUed Mainze Handkiise; Handkase; the the cheeses cheeses of Allgiu; Allgau; Mayence called Kraeuter (a kind kind of Roquefort); Roquefort); and and the the assorted assorted cheesecheeseKraeuter cakes that that German German beer beer complements so so perfectly. perfectly. The cakes salads of of Baden Baden contain Emmenthal Emmenthal cheese, cheese, together together with salads bitter-sweet melon, red bilberries, bilberries, and hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs. eggs. bitter-sweet Ptisseries are are excellent throughout Germany and very Pdtisseries varied. There are the the Napfkuchen Napjkuchen of of Berlin; Streuselkuchen, Streuse/kuchen, varied. cake made made with butter, butter, flour and and sugar; sugar; Berliner Berliner a yeast cake Pfannkuchen (jam (jam fritters dusted with with sugar); sugar); and and manymany Pfannkuchm varieties of of rolls, rolls, some sorne made made with with milk. milk. In Dresden Dresden there there are varieties custard tarts tarts speckled speckled with with raisins, raisins, Christmas Christmas Mohnspielm Mohnspie/en custard (slices of white white bread bread steeped in milk and and sprinkled with (slices ground poppyseeds poppyseeds and and sugar). sugar). Ltbeck Lbeck has has its its almond almond ground pas te, Bremen Bremen its Bremer Bremer Klabm K/aben (white (white bread dough mixed paste, with raisins raisins and crystallised crystallised lemon). Brunswick Brunswick has has gingerwith bread made made with with honey honey from the moors moors of Liineburg, Lneburg, and bread Zuckerkuchen, a sugary cake cake baked baked on on a a metal met al tray. tray. Hanover Hanover Zuckerkuchen,asrgary
507 s07

(Liebnitz Keks), Keks), the Rhineland has the Rhineland has its has petits-beurre (Liebnitz its has its petits-bewre (variety of Muzm (variety of fritters), fritters), and and Cleves its almond has its Muzen Cleves has (Printen) of Aix-la-Chapelle gdteaux (Printen) The gteaux Aix-la-Chapelle are Speku/atius. Spekulatius. The coated with with chocolate or or caramel; caramel; the the Black Black Forest Forest offers coated fruit loaf called Hutzelbrot cherry tart and bilberry cake; a a fruit called Hutze/brot people of and the Zuckerbrot Ulm are and Zuckerbrot of Ulm are favourites of the people Wurttemberg. The Kuch/e Kuchle of Baden are fritters fried in deep Wurttemberg. deep fat. Then Then there fat. there are are the from the aniseed-flavoured Springer/e Springerlc from Heidelberg and Heidelberg and the the macaroons macaroons and and chocolate-covered nougat of Nuremberg. of Nuremberg. 'Let there be beer beer ... there be . . . And there. was was beer.' A Bavarian beer.' A monastery attributes attributes these these words to to Saint Gambrinus, Gambrinus, and and they are they are sufficient sufficient to to show show the the influence of this this legendary great country figure over the great There is a wide variety country of hops. There of German beers. They Holstein beer, They include include Holstein beer, Berlin beer (which in summer is fermentation wheat beer kept in is a a low fermentation stone.jugs stone.jugs and and drunk drunk with with raspberry raspberry syrup: syrup: Weisse Weisse mit mil (Rauchbier of Himbeer), Franconian beer (Rauchbier Himbeer), Franconian beer of Bamberg, Back'bier Bick'bier of Bayreuth, fortified beer of of Kulmbach), Kulmbach), Munich beer, etc. German wines are often excellent. excellent. There There are two principal quality wines, denominations: denominations: Aus/ese, Auslese, first-class first-class quality wines, and and Spat/ese Spiitlese wines made from grapes that have been allowed to ripen on the vine for as long as possible possible (see WINE).

Assortment of ltalian produce: produce: Gorgonzola, Gorgonzola, Bel Assortmnt of ltalian Bel paese, Parma harn, ham, Asti spurnante spumante and Chianti (Maison Bileua. Bilerta. Phot. Larousse) (Maison Larousse) ITALIENNE TTALTENNE The ltalian Italian - The cuisine does does not not begin and and end end with pasta dishes, caisitu dishes, risotto, fritto misto zuppa ing/ese despite its misto and and zuppa inglese (which despite name was its name fritto certainly not invented in England). certainly Italian cuisiru cuisine is much more than that. Besides the above Italian (which are are all ail excellent) excellent) there there are are succulent charcuteries (which charcuteries made in Milan and Bologna, Bologna, such as sa/ami, as mortadella and and salarni, the famous famous Parrna ham, and (stuffed pig's the Parma ham, and the the zampone (stuffed trotter) of of Modena. Modena. Then there there is is Gorgonzola Gorgonzola cheese trotter) cheese (which is quite unlike Roquefort or any is any of the other French blue cheeses) and and Parmesan cheese cheese which wruch goes so weil with ail cheeses) so well all pas ta dishes dishes and and which is is the the secret of the the creaminess Italian pasta secret of creaminess of Italian Italian risotto. of Italian cuisiru cuisine is one one of the the oldest in Europe. It is is derived Italian from Greek gounnet gourmet traditions, these these being derived in their tum from Oriental cuisine. these turn caisine. Throughout the centuries these became firmly established established in Italy. They culinary traditions became gradually attained perfection perfection in the the country had adopted gradually country that had Choose any ordinary 1 talian dish and it is the replica them. Choose Italian of one one that that was was once once enjoyed enjoyed by by gourmands reclining reclining on of on their triclinia in Ancient Rome. triclinia ltalian polenta polenta is is the same same as as the pulse that the Romans Italian

COOKERY. CUISINE ITALIAN COOKERY. custNE

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prepared en route when they set out to conquer the prepareden tbe world. They toasted grains grains of wheat, crushod crushed them, tbem, and and made a gruel from the result. The only difference is that polenta is maizn flour, not made from coarse coarse maize not wheaten wheaten flour. now made identical Contemporary Italian dessert wines are almost identical to those those the Romans made. made. They left them to thicken in the of their their villas villas then then drank therr them diluted diluted with snow. snow. attics of

ltalian cuisirp cuisine can can be be considerod considered the the 'mother' 'mother' of of all ail Italian

s. European Latin Latin cuisine cuisines. European Catherine de de Medicis took Italian ltalian pastry-makers, cooks Catherine craftsmen and ice cream makers with her to France. These craftsmen imparted the secrets secrets of of their their delicate delicate pastries pastries (especially (especially their imparted frolla), luscious creams creams and and flavoured flavoured ices ices to to their pasta frolla), French counterparts. counterparts. Italian ltalian culinary methods were were thus French into France, France, and there is a restaurant restaurant and there is hardly a introduced into menu in that country today that does not include disbes dishes of ltalian origin. In Paris, and in most of the large towns, are Italian tbese the best in town) that tbat offer some of these restaurants (and sorne appropriate solely ltalian dishes, by the tbe appropria te accompanied by dishes, accompanied solely Italian Italian wines. wines. Wines Wines such as Valpolicella from from Verona, such as Italian and Frascati Bardolino from Garda, Chianti from Tuscany and Romani and and Orvieto Orvieto the the white white wines from Castelli wines from Castelli Romani and moscati spumanti spurnantiftom from Piedmont has red and white moscati Umbria. Piedmont Emilian wine, Asti (Barbera (Barbera and and Freisa) the famous Emilian Freisa) and and the Asti wine-producing Lambrusco. ltaly is is the second largest largest wine-producing the second Lambrusco. Italy splrit, grappa, country of Europe. There is also a traditional spirit, country of (witch). Anotber Another and a herb-flavoured liqueur called strega (witch). a herb-flavoured liqueur, Adriatic coast, is maraschino. liqueur, from the Adriatic

quality. ltalian Italian ltalian food produce produce is is of of excellent excellent quality. Italian food charcuteries everywhere. The pork butchers are are known everywhere. charcateries are ttre skin of of a boned culinary mortadelle where the makirgmortadelle culinary artists, making the slightest apparent piglet is without there being the is stuffed stuffed without trace of an incision. trace an incision. flesh alhas delicate, tender flesh The delicate, tender poultry of Piedmont has The poultry of Piedmont The young yellow for though it is for sorne some tastes. The is rather rather too too yellow though pigeons, are province, no guinea no bigger bigger than than pigeons, guinea fowl fowl of of the the province, Italian pasta delicious, the butter of Piedmont is excellent, excellent, ltalian Piedmont is which with which good, and marze flour flour with coarse maize is and the the coarse is extremely good, Italian olive here than than anywhere. anywhere. ltalian polenta is is better better here is made made is Italian and ltalian oil oil of Provence, Provence, and to the the olive oil oil is is comparable to most other of most tomatoes the tomatoes tomatoes of sweeter than than the are sweeter tomatoes are (apart from may not from pork) may European countries. The The meat meat (apart meat of sorne some the meat quite flavour of the and flavour quite match the delicacy and match the other European countries, but it is is still quite good. Pasta asciutta, the general name for various types of pasta, asciutta,the should be served before before the main course. For Italian wines see WINE.

Another national national dish is sukiyaki, sukiyaki, which wbich means 'roasted on the spit'. This has a history. In fonner former times roast beef beef was prohibited by the Buddhist Buddhist monks who forbade the domestic eating of animal meat. Such edicts were regarded regarded lightly lightly in rural rural areas, areas, and and the the peasants peasants used used to to get get over over them them by building a fire between roasting between two stones in the fields and roasting the mutton and pork over it there. Sukiyaki dates from this guest prepares time. time. Each Each guest prepares the the dish dish according according to to his his taste available: thin slices of meat, raw using the foods that are are available: egg, etc. diced vegetables, mushrooms, bamboo shoots, raw egg, The following are among the most popular fish dishes in Japan: eel fillets (unagi). This is prepared in a Kabayaki. Grilld Grilled eel gorged with The ee\ is gorged with beer beer or very special way Japan. The eel is very special way in in Japan. lengthwise with in half lengtbwise spirits, bled, then immediately spirits, immediately split in deboned. This a chopper chopper and and completely completely deboned. one one blow blow from from a grilld over a It is is first steamed, then much skill. skill. It requires much first steamed, then grilled sprinkled with sauce. wood fire and served sprinkled (a species of tuna). When the Katsus-buski. Dried bonito (a Katsus-buski. process a piece of of is completed the fish becomes like a drnng pro drying cess is powder is as it it is is required. Bonito powder wood. It It is is then wood. then grated as added to certain certain soups with the dual dual purpose of seasoning added used in the,rn and and making them more nutritious. It is widely used them Japan. rice containing A bowl bowl of cooked rice Maguro-no-suhki. of cooked Maguro-no-suhki. A powderod egg wrapped in a other raw tuna (or otber a thin slice of raw powdered substance). substance). sauce made made of a sauce Musi-yaki. Fish Fish cooked in in the oven in in a the oven and sprinkled sprinkled afterwards with flour; or cooked dry and potato flour; the same sauce. garnished with seaweed. seaweed. Nosi-maki. A bowl of rice garnished This dish dish is raw fish fish and and vegetables. This Nuta. A mixture of raw Nuta. horseradistt, mus mustard and other with horseradish, strongly seasoned seasoned with strongly tard and condiments. hot rice tea, water, water, beer beer and and bot rice wine The Japanese Japanese drink drink tea, The a meal. before a
RUs$ ET Er cursINE RUSSE COOKERY. CUISINE RUSSIAN AND POLISH POLISH COOKERY. RUSSIAN poLoNAIsE - Russian cuisine is contrasting is composed of two contrasting composed of POLONAISE

JAPANESE COOKERY. ctnsINE JAPONAISE rApoNAIsE Japan is is an COOKERY. CUlSINE - Japan populated islands in lacking in agglomeration densely populated islands lacking of densely agglomeration of people live pigs. The fish and and cattle, The people live mainly mainly on on fish sheep or or pigs. cattle, sheep and various sea supplementing their their diet diet with rice and sea products, supplementing other plants and vegetables. why fish fish form form the The explains why The abundance abundance of of sea-food sea-food explains people are cooks, and and basis are skilful cooks, Japanese cuisine. The people basis of Japanese have food of of marine origin. origin. ways of of serving serving food have devised devised many many ways found in in fish and shellfish found They and shellfish They use not not only only all all tbe the types of fish their many other other marine edible seaweed, seaweed, and and many seas, but but also also edible their seas, in their their products unknown in they eat eat both both in in the the West, which they preserved states. fresh Tinned sea ssa urcbins, ulshins, crabs, crabs, states. Tinned fresh and and preserved mussels, quenelles, etc., Japan. are widely available available in Japan. etc., are fish quenelles, mussels, fish is very Dried call sashimi, sashimi, is fish, which which the the Japanese Japanese call Drid fish, sea bream bream popular. popular. They solid-fleshed fish fistt such such as as sea They also also eat eat solid-fleshed (hirarne\ (maguro), carp (koi-no-arai), turbot (tai), tuna (tai), turbot (hirame) carp (koi-no-arai), tuna (maguro), (saba), usually and, with mackerel (saba), usually seasoned seasoned with and, less less frequently, frequently, mackerel soy soy sauce. sauce. Raw is easily digestible and and Raw fisb fish seasoned seasoned with with soy soy sauce sauce is easily digestible (in the opinion gourmets) a (in most delicate delicate dish. dish. a most opinion of of Nipponese gourmets)
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gastronomic influences: ConEuropean. Conand west west European. Asian and influences: Asian gastronomic and not a blend blend of these, and temporary Russian cuisine, then, is a temporary great French have imagined it it since since the the French chefs chefs have at ail all as as the the great at eighteenth century. eighteenth Minagier russe, russe, le Mnagier A rare rare book the sixteenth sixteenth century, century le book of the A occasions Russian cuisine cuisitu of that that time. Festive occasions the Russian describes the flowed with every every meal. There There was frequent" and and drink drink flowed were frequent, (hot and hydromel, beer, and cold), cold), hydromel, Italian wine wine (bot Greek and and Italian Greek liqueurs. But, kvas, brandy, brandy, cherry and and raspberry liqueurs. sparkling kvas, sparkling Iz Mnagier, these wines wines and and to the advice of Le Minagier, these according to the ad according vice of

smoked salmon salmon vodka, caviare, Russian specialities: caviare, eel eel and and smoked spocialities: vodka, Russian (Nicolas\ (Nicolas)

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spirits spirits were not to be offerod offered too liberally Iiberally - 'There should be no disputes disputes and certainly certainly no knock-out blows.' Other picturesque details of Russian anisitu cuisine are supplied

by by the the descriptions descriptions of of the the traditional, traditional, quasi-ritual meal

(similar to that offered on Christmas Eve in Europe) eaten on the return from midnight mass between between Holy Saturday and Easter Easter Sunday. Sunday. The Easter meal is a mixed cold table, with savoury and sweet sweet dishes, dishes, pastries, and and desserts laid laid out out together. together. All these dishes remain on the table during the whole of Easter Easter Sunday and Easter Monday; empty ones being replaced replaced by full ones as the food is consumed. consumed. The The composition composition of of the Easter Easter meal is traditional. traditional. Certain Certain dishes, such as as roast lamb and sucking pig, must always be included, included, and and one or more lambs made of butter must must be prepared. This is done done in the following way: A reclining reclining lamb is modelled from a block block of of fresh butter. butter. Its wool is fashioned by placrng placing a piece of canvas on some sorne butter and and attaching it to the the modelled lamb's body. body. The head head is carefully sculpted. The horns may be covered covered with gold go Id or silver foil, and pepperconr peppercorns or grape seeds serve as eyes. eyes. The lamb is then placed on a mount ssnsisling consisting of a piece of of wood placed on a bottle. bottle. The wood is covered covered with damp hemp on which grass, oats or lentils lent ils have been sown sown and germinated to glve give an attractive attractive surround. surround. An orthodox Russian a roast Russian Easter Easter meal consists consists of ofa roast lamb lamb and sucking pig, a cold ham, a turkey or piece of of feathered feathered game, also roasted, veal, variously roasted, roast roast leg leg of ofveal, variously coloured eggs, a pasklw paskha of of white white cheese cheese (pyramid of of pressed white white cheese), cheese), one or more Easter Easter gAteaux gteaux (koulitch), one or several babas babas (cylindrical cake made of leavened dough which can be as much much as as I 1 m. m. (39 (39 inches) high and and 40 40 cm. cm. (16 (16 inches) in diameter), diameter), plates of Polish pastries Qtlietzki), (p/ietzki), and and several several salt salt cellars cellars of of salt salt which which has has been blessed. blessed. A large large number number of non-ritual non-ritual dishes also also appear appear on on the Easter Easter table. These, like the dishes above, above, are constantly constantly replenished replenished throughout the night. night. Apart Apart from this this Easter fare there are Russian zakouskis, zakouskis, closely and smorgasbord of closely relatod related to to the the smiirrebrod smorrebrod and Scandinavia.The Scandinavia. The zakouskis zakouskis arc are arranged on immense immense buffet buffet tables, pride of place being given to caviare. Today, as in former former times, times, the the sumptuousness sumptuousness of of the the display display of of zakouskis zakouskis is an indication indication both of of the the social status status of of the host and the prestige prestige of of the guest. Vodka Vodka accompanies accompanies the the meal. meal. Russian Russian hors-d'euvre hors-d'uvre (hot (hot and and cold) are many and varied. The following following are some sorne of of the the hot hors-d'euvre hors-d'uvre (most of which which are are found found under under HORS-D'(EUVRE, HORS-D'UVRE, Hot Hot horshorsd'euvre): d'uvre): Variously Variously garnished barErettes, barquettes, beunecks beurrecks d la turque, blinis, ciernikis, ciernikis, kromeskies d h la polonaise polonaise or d la
russe, russe, cheese cheese crofrtes, crotes, anchovy anchovy dartois, herrings herrings d I'estonienne, l'estonienne, nalesnikis, Siberian pel'meni pel'meni (see (see PEL'MENI), PEL'MENI), Caucasian Caucasian pirozhki and and other other varieties varieties (see (see PIROGHI), PIROGHI), rastegats, rastegas,

Scandinavian : marinated Scandinavian specialities specialities: marina tOO mackerel, (.lVicolas) cod la scandinave scandinave (Nicolas) cod liver liver d

calves' calves' kidney soup, soup, iced ockrochka fish fish soup, soup, etc. iced ockrochka The Russians Russians make excellent pies. The best-known best-known is the coulibiac, which goes go es back as far as the sixteenth or sevenseventeenth century. It used to be filled with cabbage, cabbage, but nowadays it is usually usually contains con tains salmon or other fish. Other pies include: include: Polish Polish pie, pie, Vesiga Vesiga patties, pa tlies , burbot burbot liver Iiver patties, Smolmsk Smolensk pies, pies, Troitski patties, pat lies , sour cabbage pattics, pattips, Caucasiot casian pies, pies, Saracm Saracen pies, Russianfish tourte, tourte, small small croustades of of fish, fish, and and the the numerous nurnerous pastry pastry items items included included in in the hors-d'euvres hors-d'uvres list.

Vodka Vodka (46" (46 alcohol) made made from from fermented fermented wheat, wheat, or occasionally occasionally from from maize maize or or potatoes, potatoes, is is odourless odourless and colourless and should traditionally traditionally be drunk in one gulp. It helps helps digest digest the the predominantly fatty fatty food. food. Russian Russian tea (black (black tea tea from from China) is is drunk all ail day day from from the the eversimmering simmering samovar. Some Sorne wine is produced, mainly in the Caucasus. Caucasus.
0

cabbage sausselis, Lithuaniot cabbage sausselis, Lithuanian varenikis, varenikis, game game tartlets, tartlets, visnisekis, visnisekis, etc. Cold hors-d'euvre and, hors-d'uvre include include a great variety of of canapis canaps and barquettes, barquettes, agourois, various various types of cavinre, caviare, herrings d la Iivonienne, Iivonienne, rolls rolls d ln la varsovienne, etc. A distinguishing feature of Russian cuisine is the the use of smetara smetana (whey) (whey) and and beetroot, beetroot, which which forms forms the the base base of bortsch, bortsch, without without which which no no Russian Russian meal meal would would be be complete. Russian Russian soups, soups, like those those of of Poland, Poland, are very nourishing, nourishing, for meats. for besides besides vegetables vegetables they they contain conta in a a variety variety of ofmeats. The following following are the the soupo soups most commonly served served in Russia Russia and and Poland: Poland : Polish Polish Dorrsch, bortsch, stschi stschi d la la russe, russe, cucumber cucumber rossolnick, oukha de sterlet, meschanski meschanski soup, soup, nettle soup, soup, rossolnick, oukha (served iced). iced). Polish Po/ish kolodnik, kolodnik, Livonian soup, soup, botwrnra botwinia (served Livonian kliotskis soup, soup, crearn cream of of hant ham soup, soup, gctne game okrocl*a, okrochka, morel morel kliotskis soup, Finnish soup, soup, kalstchale kalstchale (a (a machdoine macdoine of of glac6 glac fruits), soup,
509 509

SCANDINAVIAN COOKERY. COOKERY. crrrsrNg CUISINE scA,NprN.c,vE SCANDINAVE - In SCANDINAVIAN the Scandinavian Scandinavian countries countries of Sweden, Norway and and Denthe mark mark almost almost everything everything on on the restaurant restaurant menus is is d h la carte. carte. These These countries countries have have a a buffet buffet table in in the the dining-room, called ca lied smiirgdsbord smorgdsbord which which is is covered covered with with all ail kinds kinds of meats, fish, fish, cheeses and and spirits. spirits. One can help oneself cold meats, constitutes the meal proper. proper. These These before the meal unless it constitutes hors-d'euvre hors-d'uvre consist consist principally principally of of preservod preserved fish fish (smoked or tinned), anchovies, mackerel, brisling, etc., and are accompanied by a wide wide range range of of seasonings. There There is, for example, example, gafel-biter, gaffel-biter, oyster sauce or anchovy sauce sauce made made with white white wine. Other Other parts parts of the the stndrgdsbord smorgdsbord include inc1ude salt salt beef, wine. of pork or or mutton (rullepdlse),various (rullepolse), various items items of rolled breast breast of rolled charcuterie such such as as Danish Danish saucisson, saucisson, which which resembles resembles charcuterie Italian salami salami but but is fattier fattier and more savoury. There There are also Italian various salads of of which which the the most original is sill-salade, sill-salade, made made various of cooked beetroot, beetroot, anchovies, anchovies, herrinp herrings and and salted salted gherkins. of pork with National dishes dishes include include leg leg of ofpork with caramelised caramelised apples apples, National , of hon ham with fresh apples, prunes prunes and red cabbage; cabbage; knuckle of fresh turnp cabbage; brisket brisket of of beef beef with horse-radish; veal stew stew turnip The famous pytt-i-panna pytt-i-panna is is composed of with dill sauce. sauce. The with diced beef, beef, ham ham and and apples topped topped with a a poached egg. diced Even more original is roast roast reindeer (rensdyrstq (rensdyrsteg in NorEven radjurstek in Swedish) served with a cream sauce sauce wegian, radjurstek (gjetost) and and accompanied by by seasoned with goat's cheese (gietbst) bilberry jam. jam. Thur Then there there is is the snow hen, hen, a speciality speciality of bilberry Scandinavia. Wheat Wheat, rye rye and and barley barley bread bread are are served served with with the Scandinavia. meal. meal. of how how to to make make a good Every housewife knows the secret of Every sandwich - there there are are as as many many as as fifty-nine varieties. sandwich-

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Scandinavian beers are world-famous, world-famous, especially Danish Scandinavan beer. Then there is s the the well-known akvavit, akvavit, a a light fragrant aids the digestion and is drunk at the end of the spirit that aids and is meal, Calvados. meal, like the ~ ,"-, """UV".
There is an old cuIsrNE ESPAGNOLEEspAcNoLE- There SPANISH COOKERY. COOKERY. CUISINE 'All you find to eat in a Spanish saying, 'Ali a Spanish inn is what Spanish you bring tourism has bring with you.' Fortunately, the advent of tourism changed all aH this. nortb Dishes vary from the south (rice and pork), to the north (beef and central provinces (beef and potatoes) while while the poor poor central peas. Fish and shellfish and shelll1sh generally eat lean mutton and chick peas. fried in oil. all along the coast, and are usually are caught aH usuaHy fried known than There is better knowo any of the the others: is one one dish dish better than any ol/a (q.v.) which which is forerunner of the olla podrida (q.v.) is possibly the the forerunner grande ouille that used to be made in south-west France France and combines the ftavours flavours of of meats and vegetables. is a soup that combines (q.v.) Another good Spanish Spanish soup is Another is puchero puchero (q. v.) which is often a olla podrida. substitute for oUa is a dish that may include include pork, chicken, Paella is a hearty dish Paella shellfish, frogs, snails and a large number duck, 5sh, shellfish, dlck, chorizos, fish, are made in of vegetables, pulses pulses and cereals. paellas are cereals. Simpler Simplerpaellas of the home. marinated are marinatedfish, marinatedfish, marinaled Other special Spanish dishes are game, chicken Yalencia, baca!oo bacalaa d la Ia bisca[enne biscalenne (cod served with tomatoes, on hard-boiled eggs), ions, green peppers and hard-boiled onions, veal which, roast veal veaJ Spanish-style (topside of veal montera, monteria, roast origano, before roasted, is marinated with red peppers, origano, before being roasted, garlic, white wine and the juice of bitter oranges), ham and garbanzos (see GARBANZOS), eggs, chorizos chorizos with garbanzos GARBANZOS), etc. eggs, you will volume you In the course find a In course of this this volume will find a great many recipes of Spanish Spanish origin. sell churros (hot fritters), In the streets of Spain, vendors sell paste). Water melon" and and touron (a almond paste). water (a kind kind of almond water melon, Manzanilla. melon is offered offered with a glass of Manzanilla. wine-producing country in Europe. The Spain is the third wine-producing wines are: are: Jerez, Jere,z, Manzanilla, Malaga, Moscatel, principal wines Valdepanas, etc. (See WINE.) Valdepanas,

SWISS COOKERY. COOKERY. CUISINE cursrNE SUISSE sussE Swiss hotels, catering SWISS - Swss for a large tourist industry, have an an international cuisine. caisine. Home cooking in in private small local local resHome private households, small taurants and country inns inns is surprisingly good and has has a taurants and is surprisingly good and local character. Tbere There is no lack lack of produce for is no distinctive local cooking good cooking and butter, excellent - abundant milk, cream and poultry and game, sUlX:ulent and game, quality meat, poultry fruit and and vegesucculent fruit tables. Excellent transport facilities ensure transport facilities tbat a a wide tables. Excellent ensure that products from from an all over over Europe Europe and and from from other variety of products other continents are available on the market market. . Swiss charcuterie highly developed charcuterie is a highly developed art and deserves deserves ils its excellent reputation. reputation. Although it is easy nowadays to enjoy perfectly fresh seaproducts, Swiss gourmets prefer the rich fish and other sea products, place goes to and varied local river and lake fauna. Pride ofplace thefario, a red-spotted trout with delicate flesh that lives lives in the fario, a the streams and and is is far superior to the mountain streams far superior to the tbe rainbow artificially bred for table use. trout artificially The cbar char cornes comes a a close close second second to to the The tbe trout for flavour, fiavour, while the burbot with its delectable liver is fairly while fairly abundant abundant in Switzerland. Switzerland. All western aod and central European varieties in the Swiss lakes and rivers. Sorne of fish are found in tbe Some species, example is found only in the Swiss lakes. lakes. One example however, are found thefira of of Lake Geneva, a delicious salmonid that can reach tbefra size. The same fish is found in Lakes Lakes Zurich and a very large size. is called called/ellschen. Constance, where it is fellschen. Lake Neuchatel has bondelles; and in the tiny lake of Zoug, a species of small, its bondelles; rosy-fleshed trout called zuger rothli rdthli is fished in springtime. rosy-fieshed served with a cream cream sauce flavoured fiavoured with aromatic These are served herbs.

Another great delicacy is s fried baby perch caught in Lake down with a bottle of D6zaley, Leman, and eaten, washed down on the shores of the lake itself. is a a basic Cheese 1S basic ingredient ingredient of Swiss cuisine. To the unCheese pleasantly __ ~~... _. initiated there are initiated there are only only two two types: types: Gruyre, Gruyire, a a ,... (minimum 45 per cent piquant, fatty cheese (minimum 45 per cent fat), and piquant, fatty cheese Emmenthal, fatty fatty and and sticky sticky with vacuoles, a a rarer rarer Emmenthal, with large vacuoles, cheese with with a a less To the pronounced ftavour. the initiated, cheese less pronounced flavour. To variations of quality in in these two however, there are infinite variations cheeses depending on their provenance and age. mountains there is a a special In the Vaud part of the Jura mountains delicate flavour. flavour. cheese called Vacherin, creamy with with a a delicate cbeese called Vacherin, creamy produced in Another special special cheese, cheese, Schabzieger, Schabzieger, is is produced Another in the canton of Glarus. This cheese is very close-textured because process. The a double double coagulation coagulation process. whey undergoes the whey the undergoes a Berne section of the the Jura mountains possesses section of Jura mountains a cheese Berne possesses a (monk's head). This is a c1oseTte de moine (monk's closespeciality called Tte grained, tender cheese. Although Reblochons and Tommes Reblocbons and are manufactured on the borders of Sa Savoy, are eaten are manufactured on voy, they are give first mainly in in Geneva, Geneva, where gourmets give mainly I1rst prize to to the distinctive Tomme au marc, coated coated with vintage marc. distinctive Pdtisserie has always been a a speciality of the Swiss, and Ptisserie a world-wide reputation for quality. Swiss chocolates enjoy a are ail all imported, since Switzerland does The raw raw materials materials are produce cocoa quantity of a sufficient sufficient quantity of sugar. sugar. The not cocoa or not produce or a passed limiting the industry came its own own after a a law law passed came into into its duty payable on sugar and other foreign produce. some highly regarded regarded white and Swiss vineyards produce sorne red which consistently improve improve in red wines, both both of which in quality quahty WINE). (see WINE). customs vary from from region to region. Gastronomic customs region to region. In French-speaking Switzerland, customs are more or less the with a a tendency to France, though to make make the same as as in Fr.ince, same though with of the day the the midday main meal of midday meal, as they do in Germanmost families the evening meal speaking Switzerland. For most the evening consists of a a cup of white white coffee and potatoes browned in consists (rbsti), which the Barnaise B6arnaise housewives housewives do well. butter (rosli), weil. devised for are many especially those There are many specialities, espedally those devised have also adopted occasions like carnival. carnival. Swiss cooks cooks have festive occasions from France, France, specialities from from Savoy Savoy and classic dishes dishes from classic Franche-Comt6, dishes dishes from southern Germany, Germany, and Franche-Comt, from southern ltaly. and fried fried dishes from northern Italy. pastas, risottos and In Geneva which is a Geneva there there is a pot-au-feu is soupe aux fidis fids which In very fine vermicelli; and and longeole, soup garnished soup garnished with with very fine vermicelli; which the Genevese Genevese go to the mountain mountain inns to eat. This is a wbich kind fresh moist moist sausage based of fresh based on on fat fat pork rinds, rinds. kind of coriander and fennel fennel and and served poached, seasoned with with coriander Then there are atriaux, atriauxo by boiled potatoes. Then accompanied by there are which flat pigs' liver whicb are liver sausages, served are highly seasoned, fiat fried. A wide are served including fried. A wide variety of cheese dishes are (a thick cheese steaks souffi6 fritters, steaks (a thick slice slice of souffl fritters, ramekins, cheese Gruyere egg and breadcrumbs and and fried Gruyre dipped in white of egg (slices of in cheese crotes cro0tes (slices of stale stale bread in c1arified butter), cheese clarified butter), sprinkled witb with soaked in in white wine or roiLk, milk, sometimes sometimes sprinkled soaked wine or onion rings, covered covered with with a a sliee slice of cheese cheese and and baked onion rings, baked or fried). One of the best-known best-known dishes in cheese/ondue for which there are many recipes. Here is is Brillat-Savarin's. 'The there are recipes. Here glazed earthenware caskitchen in in a a glazed fondue begins begins in the the kitcben fon&re (caquelon they pan (caquelon serole or cast-iron cast-iron enamelled serole enamelled pan they cali call it in Switzerland) which is French-speaking Switzerland) is rubbed with a clove garlic. The cheese is finely grated, al10wing of garlic. 200 g. allowing 150 to 2N (5 to good, full-flavoured Gruyre of good, Gruydre per person. oz.) of to 7 oz.) Enough local wine is is added to cover. Correct Correct the seasoning and add add a with salt if necessary, and a grinding of pepper (a little grated nutmeg does not not harm, bann, either). While the fondue is being prepared, the guests cut their bread into srnall small pieces. is brought in on on a a spirit spirit heater. heater. At At the last The fondue fondue is brought in 5t0 510

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moment moment a small small glass glass of of pure fruit fruit kirsch is added. Everyone eats eats from the the same same dish, dipping dipping their forkful of bread right to the that the fondue does not stick to the the bottom bottom to ensure that pan while halfway through while cooking. No wine is drunk, but halfway the offered.' The The experts is offered.' the meal, meal, a a small glass glass of kirsch is experts disapprove of short short cuts, cuts, such as thickening the mixture mixture with disapprove of cornflour, or making making it more frothy by adding bicarbonate. bicarbonate. cornfiour, or However, However, when when one is not not very very sure of of success, it is advisable advisable to to add add a little little cornflour cornfiour with the wine before heating, rather than gwua:nte1es perfect binding when than spoil the the fondue. This This guarantees the the mixture is is brought brought to the boil. Thin it with hot white wine if if evaporation evaporation causes causes it to thicken too much. In the the canton of Vaud, Vaud, we we find find excellent charcuterie. charcuterie. Payerne sausages sa usages are are not not unlike unlike those those of Morteau Morteau but fattier, more more moist moist and more highly highly seasoned. Cabbage and liver liver stuffed stuffed sausages sausages have a a pronounced pronounced smoky smoky flavour, and and are are eaten eaten Vaudois-style, Vaudois-style, garnished garnished with leeks and with leeks potatoes. potatoes. Tongue marinated marinated d la vaudois is delicious and a a Paris today. Vevay bricelets (variety of well-known dish in Paris well-known wafer) are are exported all ail over the world. wafer) Fribourg is renowned renowned for for its its salted salted and and smoked smoked beef. Fribourg The fondue Smoked cows' cows' udders are considered considered a delicacy. Thefondue Smoked of this this canton canton is is made made with with Vacherin Vacherin cheese. cheese. of Nplll'lh<i I~e.l., ~ . _ ... _ is is made made of equal proportions of Gruydre Neuchitel/ondue and Emmenthal. Fried Fried bondelles are accompanied by and A uvernier wine. Auvernier In Valais, Valais, the the shepherds shepherds prefer prefer raclette to to fondae. fondue. A piece In of Valaisian Valaisian cheese cheese is is stuck on a fork and held over the fire. of of the the cheese cheese softens softens and begins to bubble, it As the the surface surface of As is scraped scraped with with a a knife knife onto onto a a heated heated plate. This is is eaten with is by the altiboiled potatoes potatoes and and with with an an appetite appetite sharpened sharpened by boiled or two two of offendant, what could be be better! better! tude and and a a glass glass or tude fendant, what cochonnailles (cooked (cooked meats); the Berne also also produces produces cochonnailles Berne pork shoulder are saveloy, ham, ham, smoked smoked bacon, bacon, smoked pork saveloy, of cabbages cabbages and and sauerkraut renowned, and and with with the the addition addition of renowned, form a a rich rich stew stew called called bernerplatte. bernerplatte. A A good good classical classical form sauerkraut is is also also made made in in Berne. Berne. sauerkraut Basle is is principally a a town town of pastry-makers, and and the Basle leckerlis of Basle, with their their hard, hard, brittle, full-flavoured base base Ieckerlis is a wide wide variety of of home-made home-made are well weil known. known. There There is are number at at carnival carnival time. time. pastries, and and these these increase increase in in number pastries, The culinary art art of Zvich Zurich has has borrowed borrowed much from The other side side of of the the Rhine. Rhine. There There is is leberknbdel leberknodel countries on on the other countries (calf's liver liver quenelles), quenelles), knbpli knopli (a (a pastry pastry made made of of flour, milk (calf's and eggs eggs cut cut into into small small pieces pieces and and poached poached in in boiling boiJing water, and spoetzle of of Baden). Baden). Dampfnildeln Dampfndeln (steamed (steamed pastry pastry like the the spoetzle like come from from Wurttemberg. Wurttemberg. Roast Roast sausages sausages are are typical typical balls) come of a a mixture mixture of of finely minced minced pork and and made of Zurich fare, made local dish dish is is leberspiessli, leberspiessli, which are are brochettes brochettes veal. Another local \"~'''''''''''' '''i of ofcubes cubes of ofcalf's calf's liver liver and and bacon bacon interspersed interspersed with with (skewers) is cooked cooked in in clarified claritied butter butter and and served served This is leaves of sage. This with creamd kohlrabi, kohlrabi, small small white white turnip turnip cabbages (not to to with rutabaga, which which is is a a swede swede turnip). Zuich Zurich be confused confused with with rutabaga, be leckerlis have have a a marzipan base base and and bear bear no no resemblance to to leckerlis of Basle. Basle. Trichterkilchfi are are home-made home-made pastries pastries made made those of those choux pastry pastry mixture. mixture. This This is is placed placed in in a a funnel funnel with a a thin thin choux with hot fat, fat, where where it it forms forms unexpected unexpected and left !eft to to flow fiow into into hot and amusing shapes. shapes. They They are are a a carnival carnival speciality. Millet Millet amusing (hirsenbrei) was was once once a a traditional traditional dish. At At the the porridge (hirsenbrei) porridge time of of their their alliance alliance with with Strasbourg, Strasbourg, the the delegates delegates of of time Zurich paid paid an an official official visit visit to to their their allies, allies, bearing bearing an an Zunch immense cauldron cauldron of of this this porridge porridge which which was was still still hot hot on on immense their arrival, arrivai, and and symbolised symbolised how how promptly they they would would their ifcalled called upon. It It is is rarely served now. aid if bring aid canton of of Glarus manufactures schabzieger, which The canton forms the the basis basis of of various various food food products. products. Birnbrol is is a a forms rather heavy heavypdtisserie ptisserie made made of ofbread dough mixed mixed with with figs, figs, rather bread dough ft forms forms a a pears softened softened in in rd red wine, wine, almonds almonds and and walnuts. walnuts. It pears
511 5ll

loaf and is dense loaf is served served very very thinly sliced. sliced. gastronomicfzsres Saint-Gall no no longer enjoys fastes of Saint-Gall enjoys the gastronomic of its its famous abbey, abbey, but retains sorne still retains but still charcuterie, some delicious delicious charcuterie, such as schiblig schiblig (a kind of of dried saveloy) saveloy) and and darre diirre landjaeger landjaeger (steam-dried and and known known as gendarmes suisses). sudsses). In the canton of Girsons is bindenfleisch bindenfleiscft (beef, mutton or mutton or goat's flesh flesh dried out-of-doors). out-of-doors). This This can can only be be done done in in the the upper upper valleys valleys where pure. The where the the air air is is dry dry and and pure. The meat meat becomes as as hard as as leather and is is eaten raw, in in "''<'VIl''''''. shavings. eaten raw, Tessin Tessin cuisine has has a a distinctly ltalian Italian flavour, flavour, and is, in fact, fact, only distinguishable distinguishable from from that that of of Lombardy Lombardy by a greater refinement in preparation. The in its its preparation. The ravioli ravioli of of this canton are very large. In the Swiss Alps, apart from from the the bread, bread, Hour flour and and coffee coffee that reach that reach them them from the the valley, valley, the the shepherds have have to to depend upon the resources of the the Alps. Alps. Milk, whey.; whey, butterbuttermilk, butter and milk, cream, cream, butter and cheese, cheese, supplemented supplemented by by salted salted meats, constitute their basic diet during the season. season. They They do, do, however, have have a a few few traditional traditional dishes. dishes. ln In the the Appenzell isfenz, a thick, lightly salted porridge made of pastures there thereisfenz, of flour and buttermilk, cooked over the tire fire in a a cauldron or or in in traditional three-legged three-legged pot. pot. This the traditional This porridge may also also be be prepared prepared with milk and with cream (nidel-fenz). (nidel-fenz'1. Room-zonne is another cream-based cream-based porridge that is is cooked over over the fire. fire. fiour as As much flour as it will absorb is added it, followed followed bya added to it, by a generous slab of m is of butter. Chiiiis schoppe or alte prepared altend is prepared by placing alternating layers of alternating layers of stale bread bread and and slices slices of of cheese in cheese in a a cauldron, cauldron, and and sprinkling with with milk. milk. Once Once the the pn~paration is is thoroughly soaked, it is preparation fried gently in butter is fried butter until golden brown, rather like a thick waffie. waffie. perhaps named These dishes, dishes, perhaps named differently and varying slightly in their preparation, preparation, are slightly are found in al! all the chalets of the of the Central Swiss Alps. Polenta has been Polenta has been recently introduced introduced into Valais and Grisons. Mill< Milk or water is is drunk, drunk. the latter the latter sometimes with a a dash dash of kirsch. sometimes

TURKISH COOKERY. COOKERY. CUl SINE TURQUE TURKISH cursINE rrJRer.JE Because of of the the - Because country's long subjugation subjugation to the Greeks, there is is no no such such What exists as Turkish Turkish cuisine. thing as local cuisine cuisine. What exists is is a a local anisine ininfluenced by the the various various races races that make fluenced make up up the the nation, nation, domidominated by the more refined Greek cuisine. nated cuisine. Turkish cuisine, then, enjoyed The Turkish caisine, then, enjoyed by by Persians, Persians, Kurds, Kurds, Armenians, Rumanians, R umanians, Albanians, Albanians, the Armenians, the island island population, European colonials colonials and and the the Jewish European Jewish people (for it it conforms conforms of the the Talmud) to the the principles of to quite a Talmud) comprises comprises quite a wide wide range ofdishes. range and its its immediate Immediate vicinity, the water In Istanbul and vicinity, the water is is of of such purity and and digestibility that that it it is looked upon such is looked upon as as a a of elixir. elixir. People make pilgrimages to kind of kind to drink drink the the Taxim Taxim Dere waters, of it with and and Buyuk Dere waters, and carry bottles of it away with them. A proverb proverb says says that that 'whoever 'whoever has has once them. once drunk the the ofTaxim will always always return retum to to drink drink it it again'. waters of waters Taxim will again'. Apart from from lamb lamb and and mutton, mutton, meat meat is is far far from good. Apart from good. of ox ox meat; meat; veal veal is is scarce Buffalo meat meat takes takes the the place place of Buffalo scarce and and pork is is forbidden forbidden for for religious reasons; poultry is poor. lean; pork lean; that most most meat meat dishes are made of mutton or This means means that This lamb. lamb. is an an abundance abundance of of vegetables: vegetables: artichokes, artichokes, totoThere is There matoes, courgettes, courgettes, aubergines, giant french french beans, beans, gombos. gombos. matoes, is the the national national dish; Turks soak soale their their rice rice for few Rice is Rice for a a few minutes in in strongly strongly salted salted water water before before cooking it using a a minutes of Alep Alep butter, butter, the the surplus surplus of which is is large quantity quantity of large poured offat off at the the end end of of cooking. cooking. poured is savoury and and spicy. spicy. It It is is also also very very rich, rich, Oriental cooking cooking is Oriental oil plays plays an an important important part in its its preparation. preparation. as oil as Ptisserie is is heavy heavy and generally very very sweet. sweet. It It is is always Pdtisserie always served with with large large glasses glasses of water. served The milk milk usd used is is buffalo buffalo milk. milk. The

INTOXICATION INTOXICATION
Fruits come mostly from from Asia, Smyrna and and Jaffa: figs, peaches, oranges, melons, water melons, melons, muscat muscat grapes, peaches, oranges, melons, water grapes, strawberries, apricots, apricots, plums, Jerusalem Jerusalem grapes, plums, almonds, cherries, apples, etc. Cooking is done in hemispheres hemispheres of beaten beaten copper called djindjdres. djindjres. containing a In each containing djindjlres, each ln the cheaper cheaper restaurants, djindjres, ragofit, are ranged ranged side by side on a different ragot, a 'silo', which which is different to conserve conserve the the heat. covered with cinders to heat. They stay there covered from one meal to another, just mealto just as lamb and mutton remain constantly on the constantly tbe spit. In Constantinople, some restaurants stay open all Constantinople, sorne ail night, night, In and are many itinerant food and there are food sellers, offering cooked lamb and chicken offal, white rice, chick peas, spit-roasted lamb grilled fish, simits, waffies, salep, ices, cheese, grilled cheese, fish, tea, tea, coffee, salep, ices, simits, waffies, chicory, mizis, etc. melonsn melons, chicory, mzs, etc. melons, water melons, passod from the Greek that has One habit habit that has been been passed from the Greek to to the mizis in caf6s in evening Turks is of eating mzs Turks is that that of in the the cafs in the the evening between 5 o'dock o'clock and and 8 8 o'dock, o'clock, together with with numerous between 5 and ouzo. Mizis are hors-d'uvre hors-d'ezvre consisting glasses of raki raki and Mzs are of cheese, cheese, fried fish, fish, horseradishes, cucumbers, cucumbers, pieces of of radishes, horsesalad, olives, olives, salad, tomato and and onion salad, bean salad, radish, haricot bean sweetcorn, sweetcorn, diced swordfish, salted almonds, etc. of the are essential Kacher cheese and Kacher cheese and yogurt yogurt are essential items items of Turkish diet, together with olives Turkisb olives and raw onions. Turkish delight delight are fruit syrups and flower and and fruit Jams, llower Jams, and Turkish melons, cucumbers, todelicacies, delicacies, as as are are melons, melons, water water melons, of which are eaten raw. matoes matoes and chicory, chicory, all of aloli d la grecEte specialities are arc afoli The most typical Turkish specialities grecque d la (see AIOU), coascotts, dagh kebabs, dolmas (see AOLI), Armenimt Armenian couscous, la persane, aubergine d la macaroni keftes-kebabs, macaroni turque, persane, aubergine turque, keftes-kebabs, soup, lourtourrice pilaf, tripe soup, purde, pure, red caviare purie, pure, riee pilaf, lamb's tripe (Most of these these may be louyouvetsch, Jaffa oranges in syrup. louyouvetsch, syrup. (Most found in alphabetical order in this volume.)
general effect The general effect of of the INTOXICATION - The INTOXICATION the phenomena produced by the action of a poison. INToxrcATIoN ALCOOLIQUE Alcoouetre - See intoxication. INTOXICATION Alcoholic Alcoholic intoxicatioll. ALCOHOLISM. intoxication. INroxcATIoN Food intoxicatioll. Food INTOXlCA TION ALIMENTAIRE ALIMENTAIRE It is categories of food differentiate between essential to differentiate between the two categories already poisonous intoxication: that caused caused by food which is already intoxication: poi5Onous (or has ingestion; so through putrefaction) become 50 (or has become putrefaction) before ingestion; food rendered caused by by wholesome food and that and tbat caused rendered toxic loxic by putrefactions produced producd by in the inby it it in or putrefactions fermentations or fermentations the intestine. testine. consists of of latter consists for the Dietetic remedial treatment treatment for the latter Oietetic remedial and offering offering reducing the quantity of the troublesome food food and encourage the it in a more digestible form. The residues that encourage il of microbes are are tbus thus eliminated eliminated since the digestive growth of juices transform the food food completely. juices transform the case case of proteic This is is why, wby, in in tbe proleic putrefaction, putrefaction, the proproand that portion diet is portion of albumins in the diel is reduced reduced and tbat of of farifrom naceous foods increased. Inversely, when when a child suffers from intestinal intestinal catarrh caused by hydrocarbonic hydrocarbonic fermentations, fermentations, a (albuprescribed (albudiet is albumin-rich diet starch-reduced, albumin-rich starch-reduced, is prescribed minous milk, buttermilk, buttermilk, etc.).

IRON CONTENT CONTENT OF CERTAIN FOODS IRON OF CERTAIN /,00 g.) (in mg. per per 100 Whole eggs 3'5 Beef Beef 35 Who le eggs 0'46 Cow's milk Mutton Mutton 046 milk l'5 Butter Very fat pork pork 15 Butter 7'9 Wheatgerm Offal Wheatgerm Olfal 79 I Wholemeal Eel 1 Wholemeal bread bread Eel I White bread Salmon Salmon 1 bread l'2 Smoked herring herring 12 Root vegetables vegetables 5'7 Oysters Oysters 57

3'l 31 0'15 015 0'2 02 4'07 407 3 3 l'2 12 0'7 07

IRRORATELJR IRRORATEUR (Spray gun) - Piece Pieee of apparatus, invented by perfume rooms, by Brillat-Savarin, Brillai-Savarin, which which was was used used to to perfume especially the dining-room. in the preface Brillat-Savarin writes writes in preface to to la Physiologie du goitt: '1 submitted council of submitted to got: to the the council of the the Society for for the piece irrorateur, a piece of National Industries my Encouragement of my irrorateur, a other than is none other of apparatus invented by me, which is of lhan a spray which can fill a room compressor spray room with perfume. perfume. pocket. Il It was 'I had in my pocket. '1 had brought the the spray with me, me, in I turnod well-fiIled. well-filled. 1 turned on the tap and, with a hissing hissing sound, out sweet-smelling vapour which rose came a a sweet-smelling came rose right right up up to to the ceiling ceiling and the,n then fell in tiny drops on the people people present present and on their papers. 'It was then that 1 I witnessed, witnessed, with indescribable pleasure, pleasure, the heads of the wisest men in the capital bending under my 'irroration'.I1 was enraptured to note that the wettest among 'irroration'. also the happiest.' them were al50

'l

of the best some of ISIGNY ISIGNY - A small town in Calvados where sorne cream. France is made from its famous cream. butter in Franee
polssoN CLARlFlE(Geladne). COLLE ISINGLASS coLLE DE POISSON cLenlrrfs-'Take ISINGLASS (Gelatine). 'Take (l-oz.) sheel cutting it of gelatine; after cutting sheet of a 25-g. 25-9. (l-oz.) a it into into small pieces, wash it, put it in a pan with 8 glasses of filtered filterd water pieces, g. (2 oz., oz.,* and 50 g. ! cup) sugar. Put it it on the fire. established, put the pan on the 'As soon as rapid boiling is established, of the fire in such a way way as to to keep it boiling. side of scum as as it 'Take care care to remove the the scum it rises and when the glass of good glass it through of gelatine, strain il reduction reduction produces produces a good a napkin into a clean vessel. a vesse!. gelatine can and the gelatine 'The proper proper clarification of the sugar and fruit and succes of of attractive of success be considered the be considered the secret of attractive fruit (Carme.) liqueur liqueur jellies.' jellies.' (Carme.)

- It

(U.S. zucchini). ancchini). MARROWS' COURGEITES ITALIAN MARROWS, COLJRGETTFS (V.S.

Variety of gourd with short fruits. Courgettes couRcErrEs COURGETIES - Variety coucourzelle, name of courgeron, courgeron, coucourzelle, are also also known under the narne are or ltalian squash sqmsh or they are are called called lta/ian and zuchetti. and zuchelli. In In U.S.A. U.S.A. they zucchini. zucchini. a very delicate taste. Courgettes have a or not. Method Method of of preparation. Courgettes may be peeled peeled or not. thick it is peeled, cut into vegetable is When the vegetable is to be fried it into thick flour, or little sticks, sticks, soaked in milk, drained, rolled in flour, rounds or and deep-fried in boiling oil. cr6ole. COURGETTES couRcETTEs A I la Itatian la crole, Il LA cnforr CROLE Italillll marrow$ mlIrrows, dice the flesh, and remove the seeds, Peel the courgettes, rem seeds, dice Peel the courgettes, ove the the llesh, pan and cook cook on the pan brown brown in good fat. Add salt, put the lid on time to heat, stirring from slowly on slowly on low heat. from time to time. Crush thern them all the moisture has evaporated. a spoon and cook until aIl with a colour before serving. serving. a golden colour Let the pulp acquire a garnish. COURGETTES crlcfes coURGETTEs GLACESGlazed ltrliln mrrrow gamish. Glazed Italillll marrow into lozenge Divide the courgettes courgettes in quarters and trim them into Oivide a few minutes and drain. even size. size. Blanch for a shape of even (3 tablepan with saut6 pan Put in a a saut Put them them in with 2 2 tablespoons (3 spoons) butter, a pinch of salt, and a little spoons) Iittle sugar. Cover with with gently until cold water. Bring Bring to the boil, cover, until the cover, and cook gently disappeared. Saut Saute the courgettes entirely disappeared. liquid has almost entirely it. in the remaining liquor so that they are coated with il.

IRIDESCENT SEAWEED. np6n Edible seaweed seaweed reSEAWEED. !RIDE IRIDESCENT - Edible colouring. It markable for its variegated variega ted colouring. lt is eaten raw in salad or cooked like French beans.
(British cookery) IRISH STEW STBW (British cookery)IRISH - This dish really belongs belongs to the Irish Irish culinary repertoire. repertoire. It It is is mutton stewed in in white white mullon stewed the (See MUTTON.) and sliced sliced onions. (See MUTTON.) stock with with potatoes and

quantipresent in iron is small quantirnn-Although iron IR.ON. IRON. FER-Although is present in v9ry very smaU part (5 or important part or 6 g.), it has a very important ties in the human body (5 to play in the body's functioning.
512

ITALIAN MARROWS IT ALlAN MARROWS

little spinach sirnrnered in butter, has been a !ittle simmered in butter, has been added. added. Add Add a Parmesan cheese to and sorne stuffing, a some Parmesan cheese to the tbe stuffing, a little little garlic and chopped parsley. parsley. Sprinkle with browned breadcrumbs. breadcrurnbs. Pour olive oil over oven. the courgettes courgettes and brown in the oyen. mingr6lienne (Russian Italian Italian marrows marrows la la mingrlienne @ussian cookery). A U, rr,rnCnfuENNS-Peel the courgettes COURGETTFS FARCIES LA MINGRLIENNE-Peel courgettes CoTJRGETTES FARCTES crn (2 inches) and cut them thern into slices 5 cm inches) thick. Remove Rernove the drain the slices. slices. seeds, blanch and drain rice, some ri ce, put it under the cold co Id tap, and Blanch and drain sorne drain some fat drain again. again. Add Add sorne fat chopped chopped mutton, rnutton, chopped cbopped onion softened in butter, chopped fennel, fennel, a little garlic, garlic, salt and pepper. Mix well. weIl. Fill the courgettes with this the tops. this stuffing, rounding the Arrange in in a buttered saut pan, packing packing them thern in in fairly a buttered sautd pan, stock. Start tightly. with tomato-flavoured tomato-flavoured veal veal stock. tightly. Moisten with oven with cooking on the stove, stove, and continue gently in the oyen the lid !id on. Baste the dish with its own juice juice during cooking. councnrrrs A Itdian I. COURGETTES Italian marromr marrows la nigoise nioise 1. LA NtgotsnNIOISEPare the courgettes, slices, salt them, courgettes, cut them thern into thin slices, thern, wipe with sautd them with a cloth, cloth, sprinkle sprinkle flour and saut them in oil in a pan on a strong flame. flarne. Put them in a a dish, dish, alternating them with skimmed and seeded tomatoes which have been sliced and lightly lightly fried fried in oil. Pour 2 tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) boiling oil, in which whicb parsley have have been been rapidly rapidly browned, sorne garlic garlic and chopped parsley some over the slices. slices. A little little sliced onion, onion, browned in oil, can also be added to this dish. disb. Italian Italian marrows marrows i la nigoise nioise II. D. councsrrEs COURGETTES A r,r LA wrgorsn NIOISE Divide the courgettes in half balf lengthways. Make Make an incision incision (around round the pulp, ! cm. (* (t inch) from frorn the edge, and several (a * c*. little of the pulp. little cuts in the middle rniddle of Season the courgettes with salt, put them tbern on a cloth and leave them them to get rid of of excess moisture. Dry and cook them thern gently in oil, without without letting letting thern tbern brown too much. rnuch. Drain. Take out three-quarters three-quarters of the the pulp, without damaging darnaging

3ourgettes d Courgettes la nigoise nioise II II

Italian marrow i la grecque (horsd'auwe). (hors-d'uvre). councrrres COURGETTES A LA GREcQLJE GRECQUE - Divide the courgettes courgettes into small slices slices without without peeling them, thern, or trim them thern into lozenge lozenge shapes. Put thern tbern into a a court-bouillon prepared in the manner described described for Artichokes HORS-D'UVRE). Finish in Artichokes d la grecque (see HORS-D'(EUVRE).
the same way.
Prepare Prepare the marrows rnarrows the same same ts as for Glazed Glazed ltalian Italian marrow. Simmer Season with salt and a good thern in butter. butter. Season good pinch of Sim mer them

rl

Italian Italian marrorc marrows i I'indienne. l'indienne. coTJRGETTEs COURGETTES A I'rNoENNs L'INDIENNE -

curry powder.

When When they they are are cooked, cooked, pour pour over over a a few few tablespoons Bichamel Bchamel sauce (se (see SAUCE). Mix without breaking the
courgettes. courgettes.

Italian Italian m&rrows marrows i la la mentonnalse. mentonnaise. councETTEs COURGETTES A LA

MENToNNAISn MENTONNAISE

- Prepare the courgettes courgettes in the way described described for ltalian Italian marrow marrow d lanigoise.I/(see la nioise II (see below). Stuff the halved courgettes with their chopped pulp, pulp, to which which an equal quantity of blanched, drained and chopped chopped

frdl

Italian ltalian pasta: paSla: Spaghetti Spaghetti alla alla bolognese bolognese

513 513

ITALIAN ITALlAN PASTA

the skin. Chop the skin. Chop the the pulp. pulp. Add Add two-thirds lwo-lhirds of of irc iLS weight weighl of of risotto risollo flavoured flavoured with wilh Parmesan Parmesan and and 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) thick thiek tomato lomato pur6e, pure, flavoured with with a touch loueh of of
cylinder equipped with wilh a die, and and pressure pressure is applied to it il by by cylinder equipped hydraulic press. A fan is placed placed near near the outlet outlet of of the the die to 10 a hydraulic begin the drying drying process, process, which which ends ends in the the drying drying oven. oyen. The small pasta pasta products producl~ are are cut eut as they they enierge emerge from from the rylinder cylinder small bt bl means means of a a circular knife; the the others others are are produced produced in different lengths. Egg pasta is made made by by adding dry or fresh ordinary eggs to the mixture. The slightly yellow colour of ordinary pasta pasta is is due due to to the addition addition of of turmeric turroeric or or to to various various chemical colourings. colourings. The The food food value value of of pasta pasta products products is is the the same same as a~ that that of of the the cereals from from which whicb it il is is made. made. It IL contains con tains glucides glucides or or carbocarbocereals hydrates hydrates and mineral mineraI salts, salts, but but only very very small amounts amounts of protein, protein, fats fats and and vitamins vitamins (mostly (mostly Vitamin Vitamin Bl). BI). Pasta Pasta is is essentially essentially an an energy energy food food providing providing the the body body with with 350 350 calories calories per 100 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz.) oz.) pasta. pasta. It lt is is an an excellent excellent staple staple food. food. For For the the preparation preparation of home-made home-made noodles, noodles, see see NOODLES. NOODLES.

grated grated garlic. garEc. Stuff Sluff the the halved halved courgettes with wilh this mixture. mixture. Smooth Smooth the the stuffing sluffing with with a a fork, fork, giving giving it it a a lightly lightly domed shape. Put Put the the courgettes in in an an oiled oiled gratin gratin dish. dish. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, pour pour over some sorne oil, oil, brown brown gently gently in in the oven. oyen. To To serve, serve, surround surround them them with with a a few few tablespoons good good veal veaJ stock stock and and sprinkle sprinkle with with chopped parsley. parsley. Itrlhn Italilln marrotrB maITQWS I la provcngale. provenale. corrRcErrrs COURGETIES A rl LA pnovrNPROVENgArJ ALE - Cut Cut the the courgettes courgettes into into thick thick slices, without without peeling peeling them. them. Salt, Salt, dry, dry, sprinkle sprinkle with with flour flour and aod saute saut them them in in oil. oil. Arrange Arrange the the slices slices in in layers layers tn in a a gratin gratin dish, dish, alternating alternating them them with with rice rice cooked in in stock, stock, and aod tomatoes tomatoes lightly lightly fried fried in with sliced sliced onions, on ions, parsley, parsley, and and chopped chopped garlic. garlie. in oil, oil, with Smooth Smooth the the surface surface of of the the dish, dish, cover coYer with with grated grated cheese, cheese, and and brown brown in in the the oven. oyen. Itrlirn ltalim marrow marrow salad. saI ad. corrRcETTEs COURGETTES EN EN SALADE SALADE - Divide Divide the the courgettes courgettes lengthways lengthways into into quarters. quarters. Blanch Blanch them them in in boiling boiling salt salt water water for for 6 6 to to 8 8 minutes. minutes. Drain Drain and and wipe wipe thern them on on a a cloth. c1oth. Put Put therr them in in a a salad salad bowl. bowl. Pour Pour over over the,m them a a few few tabletablespoons spoons Vinaigrette Vinaigrel/e sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Sprinkle Sprinkle generously generously with with chervil chervil and and chopped chopped tarragon. tarragon. This This salad salad can can be be served served with with mayonnaise. mayonnaise. Itdirn Italim marrom marrQWS surt6ed. sauted. couRcETTEs COURGETTES s{urEns SAUTES - Peel Peel the the courgettes, courgettes, cut eut them them in in slices, slices, flour flour them them and and saut6 saut in in oil oil or or butter. butter. ITALIAN ITALIAN PASTA PASTA (Pasta (pasta products). products). pAres PTES eLnrENrArREs ALIMENTAIRESDrid Dried wheaten wheaten flour flour preparation, preparation, mostly mostly made made from from durum durum wheat. wheat. The The flour flour is is well weil kneaded kneaded into into a a stiffdough stiff dough and and forced forced through through specially specially perforated perforated cylinders cylinders from from which which it il comes eomes out out in in various various shapes, shapes, known known by by different different names names (macaroni, (macaroni, spaghetti, spaghetti, vermicelli, vermicelli, crescioni, crescioni, ditalini ditalin~ fedelini, fedelini, ravioli, ravioli, reginette, reginette, strichetti, strichetti, tagliarini, tagliarini, tagliatelli, tagliatelli, tortellini, tortellini, etc.) etc.) They They are are made made by by kneading kneading vigorously vigorously hard hard (red) (red) wheat wheat with withboiling boilingwater. waler. After Afterkneading, kneading, the thepaste pasteis isput pulin inaabronze bronze

of

ITALIEIYI\E IT ALIENNE (A (A L)V) - Name Name grven given to to various various dishes dishes made made of meat, meat, poultry, poultry, fish fisb and and vegetables. vegetables. In In all aU these these dishes dishes finely finely
diced diced or or chopped chopped mushrooms mushrooms are arc used. used.

The The name name d I'italienne l'italienne is is also also given given to to a a method method of of prepreparing paring macaroni macaroni or or other other pastas. pastas.

ITALY ITALY - See See INTERNATIONAL INTERNATIONAL COOKERY, COOKERY, WINE. WINE.

WAIV A - Name Name grven given in in some some districts districts of ofFrance France to to the the yarrow, yarrow, and and to to a a tlpe type of ofgentian. gentian.

MIRE IVOIRE (A (A L') V) - Method Method of of preparation preparation used used especially especially for for
poultry. poultry. (See (S CHICKEN, CHICKEN, Chicken Chicken d l'ivoire.) l'ivoire.)
IVROGIYE IVROGNEDE DE MER MER- Small Small fish fish with with red red scales scales found found in in the the Atlantic, Atlantic, and and in in the the Mediterranean Mediterranean and and Adriatic. Adriatic. Its Ils flesh flesh is is tough, lough, but but it il is is edible. edible.

IZARD. IZARD. rs^lnoISARD-Name Namegiven given to 10the thewild wild goat goat of ofthe thePyr6n6es. Pyrnes. For For methods methods of ofcooking cooking it il see see ROEBUCK. ROEBUCK.

514

JALOUSIES - Little cakes cakes made made of of flaky f1aky pastry. JALOUSIES(see Method L J. Roll Roll out out a a piece piece of of Flaky Flaky pastry pastry dough dough (see (3 inches) and cut cut it into into strips strips about 7t inches) 7l cm. cm. (3 DOUGH) and
wide.

spread a layer layer of Almond Almond paste (se (see ALMOND) f1avoured flavoured vaniJla on the the slices. slices. with vanilla with twisted to make a a crissdough to strips of dough Decorate with twisted strips cross pattern. pattern. Secure this by pressing pressing down at each edge edge of the slice water so with water dough moistened moistened with slice a a narrow strip of dough edges. Brush with beaten egg. sticks firrnly. Crimp the edges. that it sticks Bake in a oven. When cooked, spread apricot jam a medium oven. on top. Cut into pieces of equaJ . equal size size. Method II. it into 2 cut it into 2 flaky pastry, cut a piece of flaky //. Roll Roll out a pieces, each (4 inches) wide). l0 cm. (4 each 10 Place baking sheet. sheet. moistened baking a slightly slightly moistened these on on a Place one one of these jam, Brush the with jam, Spread with water. Spread the edges of the the dough with water. edges of leaving a If in ha half dough in Fold the the second length of dough a border. border. Fold lengthwise. Using the back knifs, carefully cut the the calslully cut a large large knife, back of of a folded dough into strips a border at at leavrng a of equal equal width, leaving strips of each . Open the on the it carefully carefully on and lay lay it the dough dough and out the each end end. Open out join them. jam. Press slice Trim the the to join them. Trim edges to Press the edges spread with with jam. slice spread edges them. neatly and and crimp crimp them. edges neatly Brush for oven for in a a medium modium oven Bake in beaten egg. egg. Bake the top top with with beaten Brush the jam 25 spread jam the oven, oven, spread the tart tart out out of of the Take the 25 to to 30 30 minutes. minutes. Take on round the the edge. edge. crystals round sugar crystals on it it and and sprinkle sprinkle sugar Cut (l| inches) to cool cool wide. Leave Leave to a cm. inches) wide. cm. (1 into strips about 4 Cut into strips about on on a a wire wire tray. tray.

Leaving a 1 cm. cm. (* (t inch) around the edges, around the of I Leaving a margin of

are essences are artificial essences the word fantaisie. contain the When artificial contain fantaisie. When (artificial artificiel (artificial ot arome arome artificiel words fantaisie the words added, the added, fantaisie or colouring When colouring label. When the label. on the appear on must appear flavouring) must f1avouring) matter is added, this must be indicated. matter colouring matter product made with essences, acids and colouring A product sold under under only be be sold and can can only fruit" and a fruit, name the na cannot bear the me of a product) with, (artificial product) if with, if pro&tit artificiel artificiel (artificial name of produit the name the pure sugar. sugar. necessary, the mention of pure or marmelades marmeladcs fruiq or of fruit, of mixtures of or of Jams made of fruit or preserve fruits fruits to preserve used to has been been used which has syrup which made with with syrup made the bear the glucose) must per cent must bear cent glucose) (syrup containing 5 per about 5 containing about (syrup preserved fruit fruit (made with with preserved confits (made sirop de de fruits words au an sirop words fruits confits syrup). syrup). and fruit and of fruit from a a basis basis of obtained from are obtained of which which are Jams, ail all of Jams, categories: various categories: into various can be be divided divided into sugar, can sugar, Apricots, sugar. Apricots, with sugar. fruit with stoned fruit cooking stoned made by by cooking l. Jams Jams made 1. plums, etc., used and, and, are used etc., are oranges, plums, strawberries, oranges, cherries, strawberries, cherries, halved. prepared who or halved. whole fruit is is prepared the fruit kind, the to its its kind, according to according le or juice of sugar' fruits and and sugar. of fruits the juice with the only with made only 2. Jellies Jellies made 2. pulp and and fruit pulp prepared with strained fruit with strained Marmelades prepared 3. Marmelades 3. sugar. sugar. theraisins raisinds as the such base, su multiple base, with aa multiple made with 4. Jams Jams made 4. ch as preparations. (q.v.), or similar preparations. or other other simiJar (q.v.),

JAMS - A preparation A preparation cElfrt."coNnrunns, GELES AI{D JELLIES. JELLIES. CONFITURES, JAI4S AND of follows: France is is as as follows: in France legal definition definition in the legal fruit for for which which the of fruit 'Products sugar or crystallised crystallised sugar of refined refined or solely of constituted solely 'Products constituted and juice of preserved in in sorne some or preserved fresh fruits, fruits, or of fresh fresh fruits fruits or or juice and fresh way (Decree of 1925). 25September September 1925). of 25 drying.' (Decree other than than by by drying.' way other They per cent and cent moisture, moisture, and of 40 4O per a maximum maximum of must contain contain a They must in Id 60 per 55 per per cent of which 55 dry extract, extract, ofwhich cent dry hold 60 per in consequence consequence ho cent percent.) 7 per cent.) (Fruit already 5 to to 7 contains 5 already contains cent must must be be sugar. sugar. (Fruit Only to this this definition definition products which which correspond correspond to Only those those products have. a right pure fruit, sugar. labelled pure right to have.a to be be labelled Wre sugar. fruit, pure The (in practice, practice, apple apple fruits (in the mixing mixing of of fruits law authorises authorises the The law juice jellies), on juice is particularly for on condicondifor jellies), great deal, deal, particularly is used used aa great tion put tirst proportion is isput first in the thehighest highestproportion used in the fruit fruit used tion that that the on the label. label. on the Marmelades (q.v.) must thesamedefinition same'definition to the mustcorrespond correspond to Marmelades (q.v.) as percent, and jams, but cent, and aslow lowas as55 55per fallas extractcan canfall dry extract as jams, but the thedry the been hasalready already been which has or sugar sugar which sugar, or of brown brownsugar, the use useof used isallowed. allowed. fruit, is for crystallising crystallising fruit, used for If label must must thelabel isadded, added,the citricacid acid is orcitric If tartaric tartaric acid acidor 515 515

panwith Preserving pan wil6skimming skimming ladle ladle Preservi.og (De hiller in.Phol. Pho t.Larousse) Larousse) (Dehi/lerin.

quantity of sugarused used Thequantity ofsugar FABRTcATToN - - The Jam-making. Jam-making. FABRICATION question. Sugar not Sugarisisused usednot inquestion. fruitin varies tothe thefruit variesaccording according to preserve it. preparation,but it.When When but10 topreserve thepreparation, only only to tosweeten sweeten the must areused, used,sugar sugarmust slight acidity acidityare withslight rather fruitswith ratherwatery wateryfruits fruit. quantityto thatof ofthe thefruit. toequal equalthat be inaaquantity beintroduced introduced in containingmucilaginous mucilaginous For moresubstance, substance,containing Forfruits fruitsof ofmore

JAMS AND AND JELLIES JELUES

matter, malter, the quantity quantity of sugar should be be reduced. red uced , The best quality sugar sugar should be usd. used,

Too Too much much sugar sugar

oversweetens oversweetens the the jam, jam, noticeably noticeably

stirring stining all all the time time on on a a gentle gent le heat. heat. Raise the the heat heat and and continue to 10 cook cook until the Ihe jelling jelling stage stage is is reached. reached. Add
Cherry Cherry iom jam I. coNFIruRE CONFITURE DE DE cERrsEs CERISES - For I 1 kg. (2 lb.) stoned sloned cherries, use use I 1 kg. kg. (2 lb., lb" 4 cups) sugar and and I 1 dl. (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seant! cup) water. Proceod Proceed in in the same same way as i c,rp) for Apricot Apricot jarn jam I. 1. If If the the cherries are very very sweet, only 750 g. g, (lj (lt lb., 3 cups) cups) sugar sugar should should be be used for I 1kg. (21b.) (2Jb,) fruit. Cherry Cherry jam jam II. II. coNnrunn CONFITURE DE DE cERrsEsCERISES - I 1 kg. kg, (2 (2 lb.) lb,) cherries, cherries, I 1 kg. (2 lb., 4 cups) sugar, 5 dl. (scant (seant pint,2l pint, 2:\: cups) cups) goosegooseberry berry juice, juice, I 1 dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seant i t cup) water. water. Dissolve Dissolve the the sugar sugar in the water and and boil for for 5 minutes. minutes. Add Add the the cherries and and the the gooseberry juice. juice. Cook and and finish in in the Ihe usual way. way. The addition of gooseberry juice juice makes makes for more more rapid rapid cooking cooking and and a a more fragrant fragrant jam jam as well. weIL Chestnut Chestnul jam. jam. coNnruRE CONFITURE DE DE MARRoNs MARRONS - See See CHESTNUTS. NUTS, Melon Melon jam. jam. coNFIrrrRE CONFITURE DE DE MELoN MELON - For For] kg. (2 (2 lb.) lb,) melon, melon, 1 kg. net weight, weight, after removing removing rind rind and and seedsn seeds, 750 g. (l+ (lt lb., lb., 3 cu ps) fine fine sugar. sugar. 3 cups) Cut the the flesh ftesh of the the melon melon into inta little pieces. pieces, Put Put these these in in Cut layers layers in in a a large large basin, basin, sprinkling sprinkling each each layer layer with sugar. sugar. Leave Leave to to stand in in a a cool cool place place for for 3 3 or or 4 hours, hours, then then put put the the contents contents of of the the basin basin into into a a pan pan and and cook cook to to the the jelling jelling stage stage as as described described above. ab ove. Qpnnge Q{ange jam. jam. coNFrruRE CONFITURE D'oRANcEs D'ORANGF-S - For For I 1 litre litre (If; (Ii pints, pints, generous generous quart) quarl) orange orange puree, pure, I] kg. kg, (2 (2 lb., lb., 4 4 cups) cups) sugar, sugar, I1dl. (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant * ~ cup) cup) water water and 3 3 dl. dl. (+ (~. pint, pint, l{ li cups) cups) apple apple juice. juice. Choose Choose oranges oranges of of the the same size, sound and and with with a a thick thick skin. Prick Prick them them here here and and there there rather rather deeply deeply with wilh a a little little pointed pointed stick. stick. Put Put them Ihem in in a a pan pan of of boiling boiling water water and and leave leave to 10 cook cook rapidly rapidly for for 30 30 minutes. minutes. Drain, Drain, and and soak them them in in a a basin basin of of cold cold water, water, reneviing renewing the the water waler frequently, frequently, for 24 24 hours. hours, This rather rather prolonged prolonged operation operation removes removes the the bitterness bitterness from from the the orange orange rind rind and and softens softens it it more more completely. completely. Drain Drain the the oranges, oranges, divide divide them them into into quarters, quarters, remove remove the the pips pips and and pith pith and and pass pass through through a a sieve. sieve. Dissolve Dissolve the the sugar sugar with with the the water water in in a a pan. pan, Boil Boil for for a a few few moments, moments, and and skim. Add Add the the orange orange puree pure and and the the apple apple juice. juice, Finish Finish in in the the same same way way as as the the recipes recipes above. above. Peach Peach iam. jam. courrrr;Rr CONFITURE DE DE pEcsns PCHES - Proceed Proceed with with stoned stoned and and skinned skinned peaches peaches in in the the same same way way as as for for Apricot Apricoijam. jam, Pineapple Pineapple iam. jam. coNnrunu CONFITURE D'ANANAs D'ANANAS - For For] kg. (2 (2 lb.) lb,) I kg. fresh pineapple (net (net weight, weight, after after removing rernoving the the outside outside and and fresh pineapple hard hard core), core), 750 750 g. g, (l+ (I! lb., lb., 3 3 cups) cups) sugar, sugar, I1dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seant I t cup) cup) water. waler. Cut Cut the the pineapple pineapple into into small, small, square square pieces. pieees. Dissolve Dissolve the the sugar sugar in in the the water water and and cook cook it it to to the the ball bail stage stage (l16"C., (l J 6C., 240"F.), tben put put in in the the pineapple pineapple chunks. chunks. 240F.), then Cook Cook the the jam jam as as usual usual until un til it it reachc rcaches the the jelling jelling stage. stage, Finish Finish in in the the usual usual way. way. Plum Plum jam. Jam. @NFrrrJRE CONFITURE DE DE pRr;NEs PRUNES - For For every every I 1 kg. kg, (2 (2 lb.) lb.) stoned stoned plums, plums, add add 750 750 g. g, (l+ (1 t lb., lb., 3 3 cups) cups) sugar sugar and and I 1 dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seant! water. Prepare Prepare as as for for Apricot Apricoi t cup) water.
shelled shelled apricot apricot kernels. Finish Finish as directed direeted above. above,

diminishes diminishes the the flavour flavour of of the the fruit, fruit, and risls risks rapid rapid crystallisacrystallisation. On the other hand, jams jams or jellies jellies preparod prepared with an tion, On insufficient insufficient quantity quantity of of sugar sugar are are in in danger danger of of fermenting, fermenting, or, or, ifthey if they have have been been overcooked, overcooked, oflacking of lacking all ail flavour. flavour.

Cooking. Cooking, This cannot be be properly properly done without an untinnod tinned eopper copper or aluminium aluminium utensil. utensiL jam depends The The time time taken taken to to cook cook the thejam depends upon upon the the intensity intensity of the the heat to which it is submitted. submitted, It It cannot cannot be be precisely precisely measured. measured. The cooking period period is is divided into two IWO phases: phases: during the Ihe first firsl the the evaporation evaporation of of the Ihe moisture moislure contained contained in the the fruit takes takes place. place. The process process of of dehydration dehydration is is complete complete when the the steam rising rising from the pan is is less less dense and and the the surface surface begins begins to 10 seethe seetbe rather rather than Ihan to 10 bubble. bubble. Then the Ihe real real cooking cooking begins, begins, effected effeeted at greater greater or or less Jess speed speed according according to 10 whether whether the fruit is is watery watery or easily easiJy jelled. jelled. During During thefirst the first phase, phase, the the jam jam should should be be skimmed with with an untinned untinned skimming skimming ladle, to to remove remove all ail the the impurities impurities which which rise rise to to the the surface. surface. Once Once evaporation evaporation has has taken ta ken place, place, you you must follow very very closely the the progress progress of of the the cooking, cooking, which which from from then th en on on will will be rapid. Put Put the the skimming skimming ladle ladle frequently frequently into into the the pan pan be very very rapid. to to see sec whether, on lifting lifting it il out, the the drops drops of of jam jam fall faU off off easily easiJy or or slowly. slowly, As As soon soon as these these drops drops collect colleet in in the the centre of of the the skimmer skimmer and slide slowly off, the the jam jam is ready. ready. It It is is cooked 32o-33 cooked to 10 a a degree degree called jelling jelling 3233 (104.5'C., (I04'5C., 220"F. 220F. on the the sugar sugar thermometer). thermometer). Potting, Pnlling, sealing sealing and and conservation. conservation, As As soon as as the the jam jam has has achieved achieved the the stage stage known known as as jelling, jelling, remove remove the the pan pan from from the the fire. lire. Allow Allow the the jam jam to to cool for for a few few minutes. minutes. Fill FiJJ the the pots, pots, having having heated heated them them gradually gradually beforehand beforehand so so as as to to prevent prevent them them from from cracking. cracking. Put Put the the pots pots on on a a table table and leave leave them them till till the the following following day. day. Then cover coyer the the surface surface of of the the jam jam with with a a glycerine glycerine paper paper or or paraffin paraffin waxo wax, and and seal seal the the top top of of the the pot pot with witb a a double double paper paper tightly tightly tied lied with with string. string, Gum on on labels labels indicating indicating the the type Iype of of jam jam and and store store in in a very dry place. place, very dry jam-making and Failures Failures in injam-making and remedies. remedies. The The jam jam remains remains runny. runny, - There is is lack lack of of pectin. peetin, Add Add some sorne apple apple jelly. jelly. The The jam jam crystallises. crystallises. - The The fruits fruil~ are are insufficiently insufficiently acid. acid, Cook Cook again, again, adding adding lemon lemon juice, juice, or Or tartaic lartaric or or citric citric acid. acid. The The jam jam develops develops mould. mou Id. - The The jars jars are are inadequately inadequately sealed. sealed. Remove Remove the the mould mould and and cover cover with with meltod melted paraffin paraffin wax. wax. The The jam jam ferments. ferments. - The cooking cooking has has been been insufficient. insufficient. Cook Cook again. again. Recipes Recipes for for jams jams and and jellies jellies are given given below; below; recipes reeipes for for marmalade marmalade will will be be found found under under the the separate separate heading heading MARMALADE. MARMALADE,

JAMS. JAMS, coNFIrrJREs CONFITURESApricot Apricot jm jam I. I. coNFlrrrRr CONFITURE D'ABRIcors D'ABRICOTS - For For I 1 kg. kg. (2 (2 lb.) lb.) apricots apricots which which are are ripe, ripe, net net weight weight stoned, stoned, 750 750 g. g, (l+ (It lb., lb., 3 3 cups) cu ps) sugar. sugar. Put Put the the sugar sugar in in a a pan pan with with IJ dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seant! t
cup) cup) water. water. Let Let the the sugar sugar dissolve, dissolve, then then boil boil for for 5 5 minutes minutes and and

jam. jam,

"up)

skim. skim, Add Add the the apricots. apricots. Cook Cook till till the the jelling jelling stage stage is is reached, reached, as as described described above. ab ove, Finish Finish according according to to the the instructions instructions above above adding, adding, at at the the last last moment, moment, some sorne of ofthe the apricot apricot kernels kernels which which have have been been previously previously shelled shelled and and divided divided in in two. Iwo, Apricot jam tr. coNFIrr.JRE CONFITURE D'ABRrcors D'ABRICOTS - For For I1 kg. kg. (2 (2 lb.) lb.) Apricot jam net net weight weight of of apricots, apricots, 800 800 g. g, (l* (H lb., lb., 3t 3! cups) cups) sugar, sugar, I 1 dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scanl jt cup) cup) water. waler. Fut Put the the fruit, fruit, sugar sugar and and water water in in a a pan. pan. Let Let the the sugar sugar melt, melt,

n.

Raspberry Raspbeuyiam. jam. @NFrruRE CONFITURE DE DE FRAMBorsns FRAMBOISES - Remove Remove stems stems from from raspberries. raspberries, Choose Choose ripe ripe but but firm firm fruit. fruit. Put Put in in a a copper copper pan. l6'C. (240"F.). pan. Cover Cover with with sugar sugar cooked cooked to to I116C (240F.), For For I1 kg. kg, (2 (2 lb.) lb.) of of fruit fruit use use I1kg. kg. Qlb.,4 (2 lb" 4 cups) cups) sugar. sugar. Heat Heat gently gently on on a a small small flame flame or or in in a a double double cooker cooker so so that that the the sugar sugar thoroughly thoroughly penetrates penetra tes the the fruit. fruit Remove Remove from from the the heat heat, and and leave leave overnight. ovemight. Next Next morning morning drain drain the the raspberries raspberries very very carefully carefully without without crushing crushing them, them, and and put put the the syrup syrup back back on on the the stove. stove. Add Add an an

516

JARDINIERE (A LA)
syrup until it coats currant juice. equal equal quantity quantity of of currant juice. Cook this syrup coats a silver spoon. Put the raspberries raspberries in it and bring bring to the boil. a layer of currant jelly. Coyer with a of currant jelly. When the Pot the jam. Cover jam jam is absolutely absolutely cold, coyer cover the pots. I kg. (2 lb.) Rbubarb jam. jam. cowrrrr.JRn CONFlTURE DE RH{TBARBE RHUBARBE - For 1 Rhubarb rhubarb outer fibres rhubarb (net (net weight, wcighl, with with outer fibres removed), removed), 800 800 g. (ltlb., scantlcup) lb., $cups) cups) sugar, I 1 dl. (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant cup) water. rhubarb, according to Skin the stems of young red or green rhubarb, whether one wishes obtain whether One wishes to to ob tain a a jam jam of one one or or the the other colour, and divide into pieces colour, picces 5 cm. (2 inches) long. Wash the pieces, drain, and put put them in with the sugar, which has bas been been dissolved dissolved with the water and boiled for a few minutes. it. Leave Draw the tbe pan 10 coyer il. Leave to one side of the stove and cover for so that for l0 10 minutes sc (hat the rhubarb softens. softens. Return the pan jam reaches 10 full full heat heat and until the jam reaches the and cook, to cook, stirring stirring until jelling jelling stage. Finish Finish in the usual way. .'n"A",/h","", jam. CONFITURE FRAiSES coxrrrlJRE DE FRArsEs Strawberry jam. - The strawberries must be be selected for for perfect unblemished ripeness. rpeness. Il is must necessary. In wash them unless absolutely necessaty. advisable not to wash well drained and dried before befMe cookthis case they should be weil

It

g. (l+ (2 lb.) 750 g. lb., 3 kg. (2 lb.) strawberries (net (net weight), weight), 750 Oi lb., I kg. scant 1 cups) sugar, tablespoons, seant sugar, 1 I dl. (6 tablespoons, t cup) water. water and cook to ball Dissolve the sugar in a pan with the water bail well. (116C.. 240"F.), skimming weIl. stage (l16"C., in the stalks removed, removed, in the dissolved the strawberries, stalks Put the for a stove for a few Keep the the side side of the sugar. the pan pan on on the the stove sugar. Keep juice from the the strawberries has thinned minutes. When the juice the sugar sugar to a a syrupy consistency, drain the fruit through a silk strainer. Cook the syrup again in the pan until it reaches (240"F.) once more. Put the 116C. (240f,) the strawberries back in the 116"C. pan and cook for 5 at which which the 5 or 6 minutes, to the point at jam jelling stage. Finish in the usual way. jam reaches the tbejelling (lf, pints, DE TOMA roMArEs I litre (l coxrrrunn DE Tomalo jam. CONFITURE TES - 1 ~ pnts, Tomato jam. I kg. 4 cups) generous quart) drained kg. (2 drained tomato pulp, 1 generous Q lb., 4 pint, water, 3 dl. dl. (t dl. (6 tablespoons, seant scant cup) waler, sugar, 1 dl. @ pint, I vanilla vanilla pod. It cups) apple juice, 1 vanilla pod. Cook Dissolve the sugar in the water with the vanilla to the ball baIl stage (116'C.,240"F.). 240"F.). a sieving it first. Add the tomato pulp to the pan, sievng firsL Cook on a until the the time with the skimmer until with the lively heat, heat, stirring ail all the jam reaches the jelling stage. stage. jam Finish in the the usual way. juice may be used. juice, gooseberry gooseberry juice used. The Instead of apple juice, jelling element to addition of juice is necessary to supply the thejelling ofjuice jam sets praperly. properly. the tomatoes, 50 (hat the jam so that jam. CONFlTIJRE For 1 kg. DE p.lsriQuss Watermelon jam. PASTQUES - For coxrtruRE DE (2 lb.) rind and removing rind net weight weight aCter after removing (2 lb.) watermelon, watennelon, net (lllb., seeds, 750 g. (1 ~ lb., 3 cups) fine sugar. Melon jarn. same way as as for Melonjam. Proceed in the same

ing.

pints, Cherry jelly. }elly. crr6o GELE DE DE cERrsEs CERISES - For For 1 litre litre generorxi (l lb. 14 oz.,3t generous quart) quart) cherry cherry juice juice use use 850 850 g. (l oz., Ji cups) (6 tablespoons, sugar, G (1 pint, lfi li cups) apple juice, juice, 1 dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, scant + cup) water. waler. Proceed in the same &ame way as as for Currant Curranl jelly jelly (se (see below). Clrrrant Cummt jelly jeUy I. I. csr"fE GELE DE DE GRosEILLEs GROSBlLLES - Use Use two-thirds redcurrants g. (4 and one-third white. oz.) raspberries redcurrants and white. 125 ] 25 g. (4 oz.) raspberries are currants. are added to each I 1 kg.Q kg. (2 lb.) curranls. Crustr currants and and raspberries together and and strain Crush the the currants them them through through a cloth cio th which whicb is s wrung at both botb ends. Dissolve Dissolve the the sugar, slightly moistened with with hot hot water, allowing 1 kg. allowing kg. (2 for each each litre litre (scant (seant quart, Q lb., 4 cups) for quart) fruit juice. generous generous quart) juice. Cook to the jelling jelling stage on on a good heat. C\rrant II. csr6n ennant jelly n. GELE DE DE GRosETLLEs GROSEILLES - Add Add the currants and the raspberries dissolved in ras;pberr"les to the sugar, which has been been dissolved a pan, allowing 600 g. I kg. g. (l+ lb., 2j cups) sugar for every every 1 (21b.) (2 lb.) fruit. keeping the pan on a corner of Allow the fruit to swell, keeping of the stove. Then stove. Then boil quickly until untl the jelling stage is is reached. Strain the jelly decant into pots. Straio jeUy and decant juice can also Redcurrant also be obtained in the Redcurrantjuice the following way. Put the currants in a pan with the raspberries. raspberries. Add a glass of water for every 1 kg. (2 lb.) fruit. Keep at a low temperature until the skins burst comes out. out. Strain juice as bUl"st and and the juice juice cornes described above. above. deseribed crrm D'ORANGES D'oRANGES - Rub zest of Orange jelly. GELE Rub the the zest of 12 oranges oz., seant scant cup) lump sugar. Add this oranges with 100 g. g. (4 oz., sugar, whch which has abs.orbed absorbed the fragrant oil of the oranges, to 1 litre litre (If, pints, generous quart) apple juice, obtained as described for Apple jelly. Add the strained juice of the the 12 12 oranges and 900 g. (2 lb., (4 OZ., 7 CllpS) cups) lump sugar. sugar. Add, Add, if desired, desired, 100 100 g. (4 o2.,3 cup) 7 lukewarm crystallised orange peel which has been soaked in lukewarm water and fine strips. and shredded into fine jelly to thejelling the jelling stage stage and finish as dcscribed. described. Cook the thejelly peeled quinces quinces ripe, pceled DE COINGS coINGs cnltn DE Quince jelly. GELE Quince - Cut ripe, of cold cold water as as soon soon as into a a basin into slices. Put them ioto ioto slices. basin of copper pan with water they have been sliced. Cook them in a copper (scant quart, generous quart) quart) quart, generous proportion of in of 1 litre in the proportion litre (seant (l lb.) fruit, without stirring. the as the stirring. As soon as water for 500 g. (1 a sieve and drain. into a fruit is cooked tum turn it nto (11 lb., g. (Il 8CI g. lb., 3| cups) and add add 800 a pan and Put the juice Put juice into into a generous quart) liquid. (scant quart, quart, generous litre (seant each litre sugar for sugar for each a lively heat until the jelly has on a the sugar. sugar. Cook Cook on Dissolve the jelling stage. reachod the jelling rcachee!

(lt (li

ot

given, in name glven, This was was the the name DE BOIS BOIS SOUP JAMBE DE - This principal ingredient was clearFoup to a clear former times, 10 ,soup whose principal piece of leg it was was ready, the leg of of beef on on the the bone. bone. When it a piece a (It was as a wooden as though a away from the bone. bone. (It meat fell fell away from the floating in the the soup, hence its name.) leg was fioating

JELLIES. GELES cerErs

Appte

pomms jelly. GELE jelly IS cslfE DE os POMMES This jelly is made by cutting - This peeling them good cooking apples into slices slices without without peeling or them or apples mto pips. The ripe and The fruit removing the fruit should should be be ripe and perfectly removing the pips. sound. sound. preserving pan pan with pints, litres (2f, plots, Cook them thern in in a a preservng with Il litres Cook (2 lb.) pints) water for for every I kg. ke. (2 lb.) fruit. fruit. As As soon soon as as the 3f pints) every 1 3i jelly-bag placed placed over a turn them into a a jelly-bag a apples are cooked, tum large basin. g. (l~ lb., for every litre (scant Add 800 800 g. 1b.,3+ 3i cups) sugar for mustbe quart, generous quart) juice, which must be obtained without jell. This pressure. Cook This stage stage is is reached until it begins begins to jeU. pressure. Cook until is let faU fall from the skimmer onto a a plate when a drop ofjelly is wben without spreading. jelly is lukewarm, and and coyer cover thcm them Fill the the pots when the jelly is lukewanu. Fill the the following day. day.

HAM. JAMBON See also also HAM. JA,l\1BON - Sec sous la la cendre which is is often Jambon de de Prague sous Jambon - Name which (Prague, York used in in menus menus to ham (Prague, to describe ham York or or other) used cooked in in pastry. INTERNATIONAL COOKERY. COOKERY. JAPAI\ JAPAN - See INTERNATIONAL

l|

(li

(A LA) number of of differem different dishes are A number JAPONAISE JAFONAISE ( -A that the,n have this in common, that d lajaponaise. Most of them called included Chinese (in French, called Japanese) artichokes are ncluded rs sometimes sometimes called salad is Francillon sa/ad in in the the ingredients. Francillon from mussels, mussels, potatoes and It is is made from d la japonaise. ft salade younger Alexandre Dumas the younger truffies, and was invented by Alexandre trumes, Mixed salads). (see SALADS, Mixedsalads). made to an an iced bombe made is also appled applied to The tenu term japonaise s The filld with tea-ftavoured tea-flavoured mousse. of peach ice cream filled (A LA) given to gamish made JARDINIERE ( to a a garnish made of of JARDINIRE - Name given
517 517

JASMIN JASMIN
fresh vegetables vegetables -- caHOts (shaped with carrots and and tumips turnips (shapcd plain or with aa plain or fresh fluted baIl-scoop, ball-scoop, cut cut with with aa hollow hollow tubular tubular cutter, cutter, or or diced), diced), tluted greql peas, peas, small (dicd or small kidney kidney beans, beans, French French beans beans (diced or eut cut into lozenges), lozenges), cauliflower, cauliflower, etc. etc. These These vegetables are cooked are cooked separately, sorne some boiled, boiled, others glazd. They are arranged others glazed. ,,separately, round the the main main dish dish in in separate separate groups. groups. This gamish garnish is is round served with with roast, roast, stewed stewed or pot-roasted or braised braisod meat meat and and pot-roasted served

poultry. (See (See GARNISHES.) GARNISHES.) poultry.

triangles are provide a are used used ta to provide a decorative decorative border border for for aa C()ld cold triangles dish. dish. jelly which They are are made made from from very very stiff stiff meat meat or or fish fish jelly which is is They first eut (2 inches) cut into into strps strips about about 5 5 cm. cm. (2 inches) wide, wide, and and then then first shapod iota into elongated elongated triangles produce a triangles ta to produce a dog's dog's tooth tooth shaped effect. effecL jelly may The jelly may also also he cut into be cut into other pastryother shapes, shapes, using using pastryThe cutters. cutters.

JASMIN -- Plant Plant corlt.al.nU:lg containing JASMIN

a powerfully scented substance which is is used in oriental used in oriental cookery and confectionery. which

JAY. csAt - Bird regarded as a delicacy when it is young. The fully grown birds may also be eaten, but they must be boiled before roasting. These jays differ from the jays of
North America. European jays have a pinkish-brown body,
white rump, black tail, white patch on wings, black and white crown feathers, blue and black wing coverts.

jelly is, JELLY. GELE cELfo -- A A jelly is, first first of of aU, all, a a c1ear clear meat or I1sh fish meat or JELLY. stock which which solidifies solidffies when gelatinous when cold, cold, by by virtue virtue of of the the gelatinous stock substances contained contained in in il. it. substances jellies were In former former times, times, meat fish jellies meat and and fish were prepard with with In jellies are hart's homo horn. Nowadays, Nowadays, these these jellies are prepared in a more hart's natural way, way, by by including includinggelatinous bones in the the stock orby stock or natural gelatinous bones by quantity of gelatine ta adding a a quantity of gelatine preparation to il. it. It It is is this this preparation which was was once called aspic. once called Gelatine should should not not be used used ta excess in to excess in the the preparation of of Gelatine jellies. Whenever possible it meat jeJlies. Whenever possible it should should be left out out altoaltomeat gether, and possible wbere and this this is is possible where the the stock stock is is made made from from gether, naturally gelatinous parts of of the the meat., meat, su such as veal veal knuckles knuckles naturally ch as and calves'feet, poultry. rind, and and poultry. and feet, fresh bacon rind, In name jelly given ta preserve, made is given to a a preserve, ln jam-making, jam-making, the the name jelly is juice and from sugar, which, and sugar, which, by by a a carerul careful control control of of from fruit fruit juice temperature cooking, is the required contemperature in io cooking, is reduced reduced to to the required consistency. Jelly Jelly may quinces, currants, made from apples currants, apples sistency. may be be made from quinces, and (see JAMS containing pectin JAMS AND AND JELJELand other other fruits fruits containing pectin (see LrES). LIES). Certain sweets These are Certain sweets are are also also callod called jellies. jellics. These are made made from from various a variable various fruit fruit juices with with sugar and and a variable quantity of of gelatine gelatine added, or or made made by by the old old method, method, with with calf's calf's foot jelly. jelly. Jellies Jellies are are also also made made from from fresh fresh and and dried dried vegetables, vegetables, and and cereals. cereals. These These are are mainly used used as as invalid invalid foods. foods. Recipes for for given them them are are giveo further further on on in this this section section and and elsewhere elsewhere in this this volume. volume. Clarificatian Clarification ofjellies. ofjellies. Jelly Jelly stocks stocks must must always always be be clarified clarified to to ensure ensure perfect perfcct transparency, whether whether they they have have a a meat, meat, fish fish or or vegetable vegetable base, base, and and after they have have been been prepared according according to ta the the instructions instructions and and have have been reduced (with or without without gelatine) gelatine) to to the the desired desired consistency. consistency. Instructions Instructions for for clarification clarification ofjelly of jel1y stocls stocks are are given given under under ASPIC. ASPIC. Methods Methods for for clarifying meat, meat, fish fish and and vegetable vegetable stocks stocks are are also also grven given in in the article article on on CULINARY CULIN AR Y METHODS. METHODS. Chopped Cbopped jelly. crrfr GELE rncrrn HACHE - Chopped Chopped meat meat or or fish fish jelly jelly is tS used used as as a a gamish for for cold cold dishes. dishes. To To obtain obtain the the best best results, results, jelly plaoe on place the the on a a cloth c10th which whieh has has bee,n been dipped dipped in in cold cold water, water, wrung wrung out out thoroughly and and spread spread out out on On the the table. table. Chop Chop the the jelly jelly with with a a large large knife. It Il must must be he arranged arranged round round the the dish dish with with a a spoon spoon and and not, oot., as as is S often often done, done, squeezed squeezed through through a a forcing-bag. Treated Treated in in the the latter latter way, way, the the jelly jelly tends tends to to lose lose its its colour and and becomes bec ornes cloudy. Set Set pieces in iD ielly. jelly. ArrELErs AITELETS oe DE cerfo GELE - These set set pieces, pieces, which were were much much used used in in former fonner times times to to enhance enhance the the appearance of of a a cold eold dish, dish, have have now now almost almost disappeared, disappeared, although, ",,,"vUj::,.I.', on on occasions, occasions, they they still still appear appear as as a a feature fea ture of ofa a cold cold buffet. buffet. Jelly Jelly hiaryIes. triangles. cno0roNs CROTONS ns DE cfrm GLEE - These These cro0tons crotons or or
518 5J8

MEAT JELLIES. JELLIES. GELES crrEss DE vTANDE DE VIANDEMEAT poun GELE jelly stock. Meat jelly stock. FONDS FoNDs POUR crr6r DE op VIANDE vreNon - InfteMeat gredients. For For 51i 5 litres quarts) of ofjelly: gredients. tres (5| quarts) jelly: Nourishing ingredienlS. (41b.) (leg), ingredients. 2 2 kg. ke. (4} beef (leg) kg. Nourishing lb.) bf , 1t kg. (3* lb.) lb.) knuckle knuckle of (31 lb.) of veal, veal, kg. kg. (3t lb.) veal veal and and beef beef bon bones (Ji es sawn in pieces, 3 in small small pieces, (boned and 3 calves' calves' feet feet (boned and blanched, blanched, sawn with the the bones bones ground), 250 250 g. (t lb.) bacon bacon rlods. rinds. wth $ lb.) Aromatic ingredients. ingredients. 2 or 3large carrots, 2 2 medium medium onions, Aromatic onions, 2 leeks, 3 stalks leeks, 3 stalks of celery, celery, bouquet bouquet of of herbs, salt salt and and pepper. 2 (9 quarts) quarts) water. water. Liquid. S| litres (9 Put the (tied with the beef, the the veal veal (tied with string) and and the the bones in a bones in Put a pan and brown slightly in and brown in butter. butter. Transfer Transfer the the rneat meat and and bones to to a a large large stockpot, brown brown them thern further further with with the the carrots, onions, leeks and celery. Pour in water. in the water. carrots, pan in Rinse the the pan in which which the the meat meat and and bones bones were were first Rinse first browned with with a a liule little water, water, and and add add this this to to tbe the ",,,,n.".",","'" ingredients browned in the the stockpot. Bring Bring to to the the boil, boil, skim, and and add add the ca calves' in Ives' feet and bacon bacon rinds, rinds, tied tied with with string, string, and and the the bouquet of feet and herbs. Season. Season. Simmer Simmer gently for about 5 to 6 hours. herbs, Strain this this stock stock through muslin muslin or or a a fine fine strainer. strainer. To Strain jelly, clariff it tum it into aspic jelly, it in the usual way. poun GELE Chicken jelly stock. FONDS FoNDs POUR crlfs DE DE VoLATLLE VOLAILLE - Use preparation as for ordinary jelly adding, the same same method of of preparation over ingredients, a a pullet which has been over and above the basic Ingredients, browned oven or, alternatively, browned in the oyen alternatively, lf kg. (31lb.) lb.) chicken giblets, also browned in advance in the oyen. oven. carcase and gib!ets, When intended as a garnistr for galanWhen this fuis jelly jelly stock is intcnded as a tine, tine, the galantine takes the place of of the pullet and should be cookod in the stock. cooked stock. Fi$ jelly stock. stock FoNDs FONDS poun POUR csr,Er GELE DE porssoN POISSON - This stock is as ooncentrated concentrated fish is made in in the the same same way way as fish stock stock (see (see STOCKS) from STOCKS) from the following following basic ingredients. Ingredients. For lb.) For 5litres 5 litres (5f (51 quarts):500 . 500 lb.) fish fisb bones bones and trimmings trimmings of of turbot, turbot, brill or sole sole (U.S. flounder flounder or or haddock) haddock) or or an equivalent quantity quantity of of fish fish such as as whiting, gurnet, gumet, w@ver, etc., 2 medium weever, etc., medium onions onions (finely (finely sliced), mushroom mushroom peelings, celery, parsley parsley roots, roots, thyme, laurel. la ure 1. This stock may may be be made made with water but it it is better made made wrthfishfuntet (see (sec FUMET) FUMET) prepared prepared in in advance. advan. Fi$ jelly stock stock with witb red roo wine. wine. FoNDs FONDS poun POUR csrfn GELE os DE polssoN AU vrN VTN RoucE ROUGE - This This stock is s used used in cooking the tbe POISSON AU various various fish fish served served in red red wine wine jelly jelly (salmon (salmon trout, trout, brown brown tfout, trout, carp, etc.). etc.). It It may may be prepared prepared like like ordinary ordinary fish fish jelly, jelly, with with the the same same basic basic ingredients ingredents and and flavouringg flavourmgs, to 10 which which are are added added equal parts of Fish fumer and Fisn of red red wine wine (Burgundy (Burgundy or or Claret) Claret) and fumet (see

(51

ll Il

l|

g.(l

FUMET).

Grme jelly stock. stock. FoNDs FONDS por.rn POUR csr,6E GELE DE DE crBrER GIBll'.R - The The same same method method is used as as that that given givcn for for ordinary ordinary jelly. jelly. Use Use the the same same basic basic ingredients, ingredients, adding adding about about lf 1t kg. kg. (3 (3 lb.) lb.) game game carcases carcases and and trimmings trimmings which which have have been been previously previously browned browned in in the the oven. oven. Add Add celery, celery, tiyme, bay bay leaf leaf and and 8 8 to to l0 10 juniper juniper berries benies to to the the usual usua] flavourings. fl"'ul'\" .. ,,~a,, White White jelly jelly stock. stock. FoNDs FONDS poun POUR cst,fo GELE BLANcHE BLANCHE - Made Made from from the tbe same same basic basic ingredients ingredients and and flavourings ftavourings as as ordinary ordinary jelly, jelly, but but without without browning browning the the meat meat or or bones. bones.

VEGETABLE VEGET ABLE JELLIES. JELLIES. certns GELES ps DE rfcuMEsLGUMES - These Thesejellies, jellies, which which are are prepared prepared from from various various dried dried vegetables, vegetables, cereals cereals

JELLY JELLY
particularly as and as invalid invalid foods. and fresh fresh herbs, herbs, are are used used particularly Pectose is a In unripe a constituent of all aU these these vegetables. In fruit and vegetables, it is present state but, present in an insoluble state as or vegetable ripens, ripens, it it changes changes into as the the fruit fruit or into soluble
pectin. Fresh GELE on DE rivrs FvES rndcsrs FRACHES - Put Fresb bean bean jelly. jelly. crr6r Put ripe, shelled a Iittle little water, water, cover in a a saucepan. saucepan. Add Add a shelled beans beans in tightly, and cook. From From time time to time, time. while they are cooking, add a little little water so that the liquid level in the pan remains remains constant. constant. When When the beans are cooked, sieve thern. them. Press the vegetables aU the the juice, juice, which makes a jelly with tables gently to extract all a jelly a very high albumen content. content. In In the the same sa me way, jellies jellies can can be be extracted extracted from from small small kidney beans, beans, French (string) (string) beans, green peas and various kidney other fresh fresh vegetables. vegetables. other pArs DE poMMEs - 'Choose good, sound, Apple paste jelly. PTE oE POMMES sound, - 'Choose good, cooking apples, peel them cooking ove cores. them and rem remove cores. Put Put into into a a pan with with water, water, and cook, cook, turning with with a a wooden spoon spoon from to time, until time to until they have have been softened. softened. Remove, Remove, strain strain juioe into a the juice a bowlleaving bowl leaving the apples apples in in the the sieve sieve until cold, cold, then rub the pulp through a a sieve. Put over over the the tire fire and and cook cook pan into down by half. Remove Rernove from from heat, transfer from from the pan into precaution which an an earthenware or glazed china bowl a precaution $a;zed china -a cannot be stressed too much. 'Clari$ the 'Clarify the same same amount of sugar, cook it it to to small small crack crack pan off the degree (see SUGAR), take pour in take the the pan the tire, fire, pour in the the apple pulp, stir the mixture thoroughly with a a wooden spoon and place on on a a low low heat. heat. Allow to to heat until until the the mixture shivers very slightly. you begin slightly. Stir all all the the time until until you begin to to see see the bottom bottom of the pan. Then proceed to pour into moulds as as (below.' (Le (I* Confiseur moderne.) described described (below.' pArr D'ABRICOTS jelty. PTE paste jeUy. Apricot paste 'Choose sound, o'lBnlcors -- 'Choose sound, ripe ripe put into a apricots, stone stone them, put a pan with water, water, stand stand over over the fire fire and, and, as as soon soon as as boiling is established, established, remove remove and and drain. drain. Rub Rub through through a a sieve sieve at at once once to to extract extract ail all pulp, collecting collecting it it in in a a bowl. bowl. Throw Throw away away the the skin. skin. Weigh Weigh the pulp and boil down by half. Take out of the pan and transfer into an earthenware earthenware or china china bowl. Clariff the same same quantity of sugar as (see of as you have pulp and cook to small crack degree (see crack degree SUGAR). it, stirring with a wooden spoon. SUGAR). Pour the pulp into intoit, stirringwithawoode,n spoon. When the When the mixture is the pan on is smooth, stand stand the on low low heat aga in, stirring again, stirring all the time until the bottom bottom of the pan can can be be seen, then remove from the heat. 'Put moulds mou Ids of heart-shaped, etc.) of different different shapes shapes (round, heart-shaped, on a tinned metal sheet, fill them with the apricot and sheet, fil! and sugar confection, confection, smoothing the surface surface with knife. When smoothing the When the with a a knife. mou Ids are filled, dust them with sugar and put them moulds therr into a a hot drying-oven. Two days la ter take the confections out of later of them out onto a the mould, turn them sieve, dust with sugar, leave a sieve, drying-oven for a in a a drying-oven a day, day, then store in tins with well-fitting Iids, placing placing the confections in lids, in rows and and putting a a sheet sheet of of white paper between (I* '-',,,,,,,.,,,,., white between each each layer.' layer.' (Le Confisanr ,''VU"",,,::. moderne.) Cherry paste paste jelly. jeUy. pArs PTE DE Cherry os CERISEScERIsEs-'Choose very ripe red cherries. Remove Remove stalks stalks and stones, putting the cherries into as you do so. Then transfer thern into a pan and put a bowl as over the fire. Bring them to the boil, stirring with a wooden through a spoon. Rub through a sieve sieve to extract ail all the pulp, collecting collecting a bowl. Boil down by half. the pulp and it in a half, weigh welgh the and pour into the same a china bowl. Clarify the same weight of sugar, sugar, cook to bail ball degree (see SUGAR), add add the cherry pulp and and proceed as jelly. (Le Conin the the reclpe for described in for Apricot paste jelly.' fiseur moderne.) moderne.) fiseur PTE DE DE VERJUS - 'Pick good Grape paste paste jelly. rArn Gnpe good green grapes vnRrusbasin with off the the bunches bunches and and put into off into a a basin with a a little little water. Bring on a a high flame. flame. When the the grapes swell to the boil on swell and and burst, burst, strain the the juice into a a bowl, bowl, leaving the strain the grapes to drip. Then Then them through through a a sieve, rub them collecting the sieve, collecting the pulp in in a a bowl. Put Put it it into a a pan, set set on on a a low low flame, flame, boil down by half into half and and weigh. weigh. amount of ClarifY the the same same amount Clariff of sugar, sugar, cook to small baIl ball degree degree (see SUGAR), SUGAR), take take off the the heat, heat, pour in (see the grape pulp and and in the add 100 100 g. g. (4 oz.,l oz., cup) apple pulp per 450 add g. (l 1b.,2 cups) 450 g. cups) as described grape pulp. pulp. Mix Mix well and proceed as grape described above.' above.' (Le Confueur Confiseur moderne.) moderne.) (I* Greengage paste paste jelly. pArn PTE ne DE RETNES-cLAUDEs REINES-CLAUDES - 'Pick the Greengage the - 'Pick gn:enga:ges when when they they are are very very ripe. Stone, greengages into a Stone, put into a pan with a a little water, water, and and bring to to the boil. boil. Strain the with the juice, leaving the the greengages greengages on on the sieve sieve to to cool. cool. When When they they are are rub them them through through the the sieve, the pulp cold, rub cold, pulp and, weigh the sieve, weigh and, amount of of sugar, proceed as allowing the the same same amount allowing sugar, proceed as described described (Le Confiseur Confiseur moderne.) moderne.) ab ove.' (k above.' PTE oe DE MIRABELLES-'Choose MIRABELLES- 'Choose sound Mirabelle paste pastejeUy. jelly. pArn Mirabdle sound put into into cold cold water. mirabelles, peel, stone stone them them and and put mirabelles, water. Place Place pan over the tire, stirring with a wood en spoon them in a the,m in a pan over the fire, stirring with a woode,n spoon until uetil

DESSERT (SWEET) (SWEET) JELLIES. JELLIES. cELfEs GELES DESSERT

D'ENTREMETS D'ENrRErrdErs

jelly.

Sweet jellies jellies are made with a base of powdered gelatine or French leaf leaf gelatine gelatine dissolved dissolved in water or (rarely) (rarely) from calf's French foot jelly plus sugar and water. This This base is flavoured either foot with liqueur, a dessert wine, or a fruit juice. For liqueur jellies, the liqueur is added after clarifying the 9 dl. jelly

I dl. (6 tablespoons, scant l| (l| pints, 2 pints) base.

cup) liqueur is used to

in the the usual usual way, flavoured flavoured with liqueur or fruit juice and in

Jellks made frm fuicy fruits. csrf;Es DE FR(nrs AeuEr.x Use lemons, lemons, oranges, tangerines, pineapple, grapes, etc. The Use of the fruit is addd added to the dissolvod dlssol'ved gelatine. filtered juice juice of filtered GELE A ul LA rrroscovrrn MOSCOVITEMuscovite jelly. jeHy. cnrfn Muscovite - This jelly is made

poured poured into a hinged mould, called caUed a 'Muscovite' Mllscoviite' mould, mould, preparation of which must must be be completely completely airtight, airtight, as as in the preparation which ice cream. cream. ice The special special feature feature of of this this jelly jelly is that it is is covered covered with a a The of frost. frost. thin coating coating of thin Red fruit jdlies. jellies. cprfss GELES DE DE FRrJrrs FRUITS RoucEs ROUGES - Cherries, Cherries, Red strawberries, raspberries, redcurrants, redcurrants, etc. etc. Only Only very ripe strawberries, Put the the fruit through through a fine sieve. Add fruit should be be used. Put fruit between I 1 dl. (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant * t cup) and 3 3 dl. (* (t pint, between li cups) cups) water water to to ! t litre litre (scant (scant pint, 2f 2i cups) cups) juice, juice, according ac(~Or,dl[tg lf to the the pectin pectin content con ten t of of the the fruit. to Filter this this fruit fruit juice, juice, and and add add it in two stages stages to the calf's Filter or the the gelatine, dissolved dissolved in advance, advance, to ensure ensure the foot jelly jelly or foot right consistency. consistency. right GELE A r.l LA nussn RUSSE - This sweet is made like Russian jelly. jelly. crrfE Russian other jellies, jellies, with with various various flavourings. flavourings. It is whisked on ice other until it it begins begins to to set, poured into a mould mould as as quickly as as until put on on ice ice to to set set completely. completely. Turn Turn out out on on a a napand put possible, and kin. GELES DE DE FRtnrs FRUITS A Novr,ux NOYAUX - Apricots, Stone fruit. fruit. cer6rs Stone nectarines, peaches, peaches, plums, pl ums, etc., etc., are are often used used as as a garnish nectarines, with different different fruit fruit jellies. jellies. with The jelly jelly itself itself may may also also be be made made from these these fruits. The Dip the the fruit fruit in in boiling boiling water water and peel. peel. Cook slowly in Dip Make the the jelly jelly from the syrup. Leave Leave in in the the syrup until until cold. cold. Make syrup. in the usual usual way. way. syrup and and clarify in syrup GeneraHy, fruit jellies jellies should be be flavoured flavoured with kirsch, kirsch, Generally, or some sorne other other liqueur. liqueur. maraschino or maraschino GELE DE DE FRUrrs FRUITS A r.e LA suEoorse SUDOISE - Fruit Swedisb fruit fruit jelly. csrfo Swedish - Fruit it is put put in in the the mould, mould, with various various jelly, garnished after it of fruit fruit which which have have been been cooked cooked in in syrup syrup and and kinds of thoroughly drained. drained. thoroughly GELES lux A UX vINs VINS DIvERs DIVERS - Champagne, Various wine winejellies. jeUies. crrnus Various - Cham pagne, Frontignan, Madeira, Madeira, Marsala, Marsala, port, sherry, sherry, etc. etc. 3 3 dl. dl. Frontignan, (1 pint, pint, lf li cups) wine wine should should be be usod to to every every 7 7 dl. (lf pints, pints, (* li pints) pints) jelly jelly base. l|
PASTEJELLIES JELLIES (Confectionery). (Confectionery). pAmsPTES- These These confections confections PASTE by mixirig mixirlg fruit fruit or or flower flower pulp pulp with with sugar. sugar. are made made by are

519 519

JERBOA
they are cooked. eooked. Drain, leave the mirabelles in a sieve until cold, eold, then then rub them through. through. Boil down the quantity by half and a china bowl. Weigh the pulp, and pour from the pan into a clarify cJarfy the same amount amount of sugar and cook eook to small smaU crack degree (see SUGAR). Pour the pulp into it, stirring with with a wooden spoon to mix, mix, and and proceed proceed to make the jellies jellies as jelly.' (Le (I-e Confiseur described deseribed in the recipe recipe for Apricot Apricot paste pastejelly.' Confiseur moderne.) moderne.) Peach Peach paste paste jelly. jeUy. pArs PTE ns DE ptcnss-'Proceed PlCHES- 'Proceed as above above using usiag the following following ingredients: ingredients: 2 kg. kg. (4 (4 lb.) peaches and and 11 kg. (3 lb., 6 cups) sugar.' (Le Confiseur Confiseur moderne.) moderne.) Pear poste paste jelly. jelly. rAru PTE DE DE polRrs POIRES - 'Prepare as Apple Apple paste paste jelly, (Le Confiseur Confueur moderne.) moderne.) jelly, wrng using the pulp of of juicy juiey pears.' pcars.' (Le Quince paste jelly. jeUy. pArs PTE or DE colNcs COINGS - 'Choose very very ripe @ince quinces, guinees, cut into ioto quarters, remove the skins and pips, pips, put into into a pan with water and place place over over the fire to soften. soften. Drain, and for Apricot paste and proceed proeeed as as described descdbcd in in the the recipe recipe for paste jelly.' jelly.' (Le Confiseur Moderne.) Confiseur Moderne.\ Raspberry paste jelly. pAre PTE pn DE FRAMBoIsFs FRAMBOISES - 'Choose ripe Raspberry raspberries, raspberries, rub rub through through a sieve sieve to extract elttract the pulp. Put over the the fire and and boil down the pulp pulp by half. Weigh, add the same same amount (by (by weight) of sugar sugar cooked cooked to to ball ball degree degree (see SUGAR), and proceed procced as described described above. SUGAR), 'Strawberry 'Strawberry jellies jellies are made made in the same sa me way as raspberry jellies.' jellies.' (Le Confiseur Confiseur moderne.) moderne.) Violet poste paste jelly. jelly. pAre PTE pn DE vIoLErrEs VIOLETlCS - 'Take I 1 kg. kg. (2 lb.) clean violets, reduce reduce to pulp pulp by bruising bruising in a mortar and add the juioe juice of of 2lemons. 2 lemons. the 'Cook 'Cook 1 kg. kg. (2 (2 lb., lb., 4 4 cups) eups) sugar sugar to to ball ball degree degree (see SUGAR), SUGAR), take take the the pan pan offthe off th.e fire, the, add the the bruised bruiscd violets violets and (1 lb., 2 cups) cups) apple apple jelly, jelly, mix, mx, and make the jellies jellies as 500 g. (l dcscribed above. above. described Various Various other other flowers, fiowers, such such as orange orange blossom, bJossom. roses, roses, etc., can can be made into jellies jellies in a similar manner.' manner.' (Le Confiseur Confiseur moderne.) moderne.\

l|

Fned Jemsalem Jerusalem artichokes. articbokes. TOPINAMBOURS EN FRIToTFRITOT - Cut Fried ToprNAMBorJRs EN in butter. Dip artichokes in thick slices and cook them in the artichokes batter and fry in smoking-hot smoking-hot fat or oil. in light batter Pure of of Jemsalem Jerusalem artichokes. articbokes. punnn PURE DE TopINAMBouRs TOPINAMBOURShrr6e artichokes, cut them in thin slices sliccs and simmer thern them Peel the artichokes, little water in a covered in butter and a little covered pan. Rub through a tbis puree pure and add to it a a sufficient quantity of sieve. Heat this potatoes to give give it the desired desired consistency. consistency. Add a few tablecream and spoons boiling hot milk or cream and 2 or 3 tablespoons fresh butter. butter. Salad of of Jerusalem Jerusalem ertichokes articbokes. s{r,lnn SALADE DE TopINAMBouRs TOPINAMBOURSSalad Made like Potato Po/ato salad(see sa/ad (see SALAD). SALAD). Soutll of Jemsalem Jerusalem artichokes. artichokes. sourrl6 souFFL DE DE ropINAMTOPINAMSoufl6 BouRs BOURS - Using puree pure of Jerusalem artichoke, artichoke, made made like Potato soufii souffl (see (sec SOUFFLE). SOUFFL).

ABDELAVIS - This melon, melon, which ABDELAVTS originally originally came from Egypt, has sweet, sweet, juicy juicy and succulent succulent flesh fiesh which which is much valued as it quenches guenches thirst. Its 115 seeds seeds are used used for making sedative sedative and and tranquilising tranguilising drinks, and and its ils

JERUSALEM MELON.

flesh fiesh is is used used in the manufacture manufacture of of excellent excellent ices, ices, bombes, bom bes, etc.

It n is eaten like like melon.

JESSE - Fish found found in almost all al! the the rivers of Europe, Europe, in almost rather rather similar in shape sh.ape to the carp. It turns turns yellowish when cooked. It It is fairly fairly delicate delicate but has many many bones bones and is is cooked in the same same way way as as carp carp (q.v.). (q.v.).
JSUITEsmall pastry pastI)' made made of ofleft-overs of Flaky Flaky pastry pastry .ffSUnf left-overs of - A small
dough (see DOUGH).

iaches) Roll out the dough. Cut it into lengths 15 cm. (6 inches) Spread half the lengths with almond almond paste, and cover wide. Spread remaining lengths. Sprinkle Sprinkle with praline praline (q.v.). (q.v.). Cut with the remaining Bake in a moderate oven. oven. into triangles. Bake

JERBOA. JERBOA.

cERBoISE GERBOISE - Small Small rodent rodent about about the the size size of of a squirrel. squirre!. It It is to to be found in all ail parts of of Europe, Europe, and is prepared pared for for the the table table like Uke squirrel (q.v.). (q.v.). Found Found in in southwestern western U.S.A. U.S.A. and Mexico, Mexco, under under the name name of of kangaroo-rat kangaroo-rat or or pouched pouched mouse. mouse.

.fESUS JSUS - Type Type of pork-liver pork-liver sausage sausage made in Switzerland Switzerland and Franche-Comt6. Franche-Comt. It IL is s also also called called Jisu. Jsu. The Jisu Jsu de and Mortemt Morteau is particularly particularly well known. known.
JOHANNISBEERKUCHEN (German cookery) - A A GerJOHAhINISBEERKUCHEN redcurrant tart. (See (Sec TARTS, Fruit Fruit tart d l'allemande.) l'allemande.) man redcurrant JOHANNISBERG - A village village of of Hesse-Nassau, Hesse-Nassau, in Prussia, Prussia, JOHAI\INISBERG where two two special special vines are grown, the large and the small where white wine is made made from the grapes grapes Riesling. A famous dry white of these these vines. vines. of

JERUSALEM JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE. ropIN.auBouR TOPTNAMBOtffi - Plant originating in North America and imported into France at the beginning beginning of of the the seventeenth seventeenth century. Jerusalem Jerusalem artichokes, artichokes, also known and poires known as artichauts artichauts fu du Canada and poires de terre,were terre, were not much mueh liked at the the start, but were established, like the
potato, potato, by Parmentier. Parmentier. They They are at their their best best on the borderborderline hne of of winter winter and spring. Jerusalem Jerusalem artichokes artichokes are are firm firm in in consistency. consistency. They resemble resemble real rcal artichokes artichokes to some extent in flavour ftavour and may be be substituted substituted for thern them in in certain certain preparations. preparations. They They have have a pleasant pleasant taste, but but one one that soon soon palls. palis. Jerusalem Jerusalem artichokes artichokes I Itnnglrrise. l'anglaise. TopINAMBouRs TOPINAMBOURS A t'^a.NGL'ANGLAISE LAISE - Peel Peel the the artichokes, artichokes, divide divide in quarters and cut them them to look look like like pigeons' eggs. Blanch Blanch lightly lightly in salted water water and cook cook gently gently in .n butter. Season, and stir in in a few tablespoons tablespoons of of rather thn thin Bdchamel Bchamel sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Simmer for a few minutes. Serve in a deep deep dish. dish. Jerusalem artichokes artichokes in in butter. butter. ToprNAMBouRs TOPINAMBOURS AU AU BELTRRE BEURREJenrsalem Cut to to look look like pigeons'eggs. pigeons' eggs. Cook in butter butter like like Chdteau Chteau potatoes POT A TOES). po/atoes (see POTATOES). Jerusalem JerusaJem artichokes articbokes la la crbme. crme. TopINAMBoTJRs TOPINA..'.iBOURS A LA cRiltc CRME - Cut Cut to look look like like pigeons' pigeons' eggs eggs and and simmer smmer gently in butter. When they they are are almost cooked, cooked, cover with boiling boiJjng fresh fresh cream cream and finish finish cooking cooking as as slowly slowly as as possible. possible. Season. Season. At At the the last moment moment add add a few few tablespoons tablespoons of of fresh fresh cream. cream. Jerusalem artichokes artichokes d h la crime crme may also be be preparod prepared with Jerusalem rather rather thin thin Bichamel Bchamel sauce sauce (see (sec SAUCE).

JOHN JOHN DORY.

French as and poule as dorie, dore, Jemt-Dori Jean-Dor and poule de de mer. mer. It Il is is very oddly shaped, shaped, oval in in form, and flat, fiat, with a large large spiny spiny head. oddly Its ILs skin is is thick thck and and it is is covered covered with with very very small scales. The The first first dorsal fin consists consists of of nine nne spines spin es held held together together by by
which ends ends in in a long long filament. filament. On the the flanks flanks is a a membrane which

sArNr-prERRE SAINT-PIERRE -

Fish, also also known known to to the Fish,

round round blackish blackish mark, mark, surrounded surrounded by a light grey grey circle. ftesh of of the John Dory Dory is is delicate and and rivals rivais turbot The flesh U .S.A. the Atlantic Atlantic fish, fish, the porgy porgy (called scup and sole. In U.S.A. in New New England), Engiand), could could be be used used for Jobn John Dory Dory recipes. It may be cooked whole, wbole, grilled, braised or poached poached in a court-bouillon (q.v.), (q.v.), but most most often it is s filleted filleted and cooked court-bouillon the same sa me way as fillets of ofbrill turbot (q.v.) or sole in the brill (q.v.), turbot (q.v.). (g.v.). The John John Dory Dory is also used used as an ingredient ingrcdient of bouillabouilla(g.v.). baisse (q.v.). baisse Fillets of John John Dory Dory Pierre Ctapelle. Chapelle. FILETS FILETS DE DE sArNrSAINTFlllets pIERRE PIERRE pIERRE PIERRE cHApELLE CHAPELLE - Fillet a raw medium-sized mediumsized John John Season with with salt sait and pepper pepper and coat with egg and Dory. Season breadcrumbs. Use Use the skin and and bones bones to to prepare prepare a white white breadcrumbs. wine fish fish stock. stock. Use Use this tbis stock for for a rice ricc pilaf pilaf made made of of 100 100 g. g. wine (4 oz., oz., t ! cop) cup) rice ricc tossed tossed in in butter butter with with chopped onions on ions and in the the stock stock for 20 20 minutes. minutes. In In another another pot pot cook cook 50 g. cooked in
520

JUNIPER WINE JUNIPER

DE VIANDE vIANDE This is is extracted by by putting Meat luice. JUs DE Meat juice. JUS - This juice grilled beef a special special press. The juice slices of lightly grilled beef into a a cup cup standing in in a from the press is is collected in in a dripping from bowl of hot water. JUs D'ORANGE, D'oRANGE, or lemon lemon juices. Orange, Seville orange or Seville orange Orange, iuices. JUS juices have have many many uses uses in in the BIGARADE, CITRON cITRoN BIGARADE, - These juices They are are exrn pdtisserie. kitchen, in in confectionary confectionary and and in kitchen, ptisserie. They if a the fruit. fruit. The flavour flavour is is enhanced if tractod by squeezing the tracted grated rind is added before straining. straining. little grated D'ANANAs fresh pineapple Pineapple juice. rus D'ANANAS Pound fresh Pineapple juice. JUS - Pound pounding, mix in a few few tablespoons tablespoons pulp in a mortar. While pounding, juice, plain through muslin. This juice, plain sugar syrup. Strain the pulp through juices, is preparation of fruit juices, is used used in in the the preparation like aIl all other other fruit like desserts. desserts. juices. JUS Made from strawDE FRUITS ROUGES noucnsstrawJUs DE Red fruit juices. -Made Rub the or cherries. cherries. Rub the raw berries, raspberries, raspberries, redcurrants or through a fine sieve. fruit through

John Dory

(2 OZ., oz., * (2 t cup) chopped onions gently in butter. Add 4 to 6 large squeezed to to rem remove seeds and large tomatoes, tomatoes, peeled, peeled, squeezed ove seeds chopped. Season with salt, Season with salt, pepper, garlic and and 1 I teaspoon teaspoon
curry powder. Cook together for 20 minutes. Cook the fillets curry of fish in butter. Serve of Serve on top of the pilaf. Surround with the tomatoes.

JOINTING. The action up meat, n6rnglcn action of cutting up JOINTING. DPEAGE - The poultry, etc. (See CARVING.) JONCHE - See CHEESE. JONCHEE _ CHEESE. JUDAS-TREE. also grows in JUDA$TREE. GAINIER ceINrm. Judean tree which also - Judean southem Europe, North North America strongly southern Europe, America and Its.strongly Asia. Its and Asia. scented flowers are pickled in vinegar like capers. JUDRU JUDRU saucisson made at Chagny in - A very short, thick saucisson Burgundy, Burgundy. JUICE. JUICE. JUSrus- The French French use the tennjus termjas in a somewhat somewhat wider sense than the EngIish English 'juice'. Juice'. Jus is used: ,fus 1. l. As As in in English, of the juice squeezed squeezed out of foodstuffs, juice, orange juice, whether animal or vegetable, vegetable, e.g. e.g. herbaI herbal juice, lemon lemon juice, meat juice, etc. juices of the 2. Of Of the gravy of roast made by diluting the juices of a roast roasting pan or dripping pan (in the case of spit roasts), with cIear en boilclear stock, stock, water or any other suitable suitable liquid, and th then ing it until aU all the goodness in the pan has been absorbed into the stock. juice, extracted pressing slices 3. extracted by slices of lightly 3. Of meat juice, by pressing grilled beef in a special press. press. This juice is grilled a tonic. is taken taken as a (q.v.) or brown 4. 4. Of coulis clear, of brown stock, thickened or c1ear, coulis (q.v.) (See STOCKS, various various kinds kinds of veal. (See of meat, meat, especially especially veal. Veal Veal stock.) juices are Fruit very valuable in in dietitics. Fruit and and vegetable vegetable juices are very Fruit juice is Fruit juice containing vitamins, excellent beverage beverage containing is an an excellent mineraIs fruit. minerals and retaining the the diuretic qualities of whole fruit. and retaining In fact, fact, it has has ail all the assets of the latter without its disadvantages (e.g. indigestibility). Fruit juice is given to babies who cannot digest milk, or or as as a vitamin deficiency deficiency in certain a means of of compensating compensating for the vitamin tinned post-operative patients patients and and concontinned milks. milks. Invalids, Invalids, post-operative valescents ail diets. have fruit or vegetable juices in their diets. all must have juice is particularly suitable Vegetable for those those who Vegetable juice is particularly suitable for cannot raw vegetables or cooked cooked green vegetables cannot tolerate raw and, people who for people who find find cellulose cellulose inand, generally speaking, speaking, for digestible. pourrms This is Applejuice. apple pulp. is made from apple Apple juice. JUS JUs DE POMMES(See APPLE, Apple Apple pectin.) Herb Heft juices. JUS D'HERBEs VERTES vERTEs -- Made from various raw JUs D'HERBES (watercress, chervil, parsley, herbs parsley, tarragon, poundod herbs (watercress, etc.) pounded tarragon, etc.) in a mortar and and strained strained through muslin.
Jujube a. Flower; b. b. Fruit a.

Syrian of Syrian is of JUJUBE The fruit of of the jujube tree tree which which is JUJLJBE - The grows in including the the south south of origin. origin. It It grows in wann warm c1imates, climates, including of is about about the size size of of an olive, covered France. France. The ovoid fruit is mild with a smooth, red skin. skin. The pulp is yellowish, mild smooth, leathery, red and sweet. sweet. It has a a long stone. stone. jujubes are They are are Dried Dried jujubes to sweeten sweeten medicines. medicines. They are used used to usod in in infusions, soothing and chest, chest, and and are are used soothing to to the the throat and paste, etc. form of decoctions and te, etc. and in in the fonn of pas

JULIENNE Term used JULIENNE used in in French cookery to designate: designate: - Tenn l. A cIear 1. clear vegetable soup soup made from from clear clear consomm. consomm6. To To shredded vegetables this this stock stock is is added added a a mixture of of finely finely shredded (See cooked cooked very very slowly slowly in in butter butter until until they they are are tender. tender. (See SOUPS SOUPS AND AND BROTHS, BROTHS, Consomm Consommi julienne.) 2. 2. Any Any coarsely finely shredded shredded foodstuffs. Thus Thus one coarsely or or finely may of chicken,julienne chicken,Tnlienne of of mushrooms, may say say julienne of of breast of julienne of gherkins, etc. etc. of truffies, truffies, julienne of gherkins, Talienne of
JUNIPER cnNrivnr -- The The berries berries of of a a bush JLJNIPER BERRIES. GENrVRE gullies. which grows grows wild in woods and and mountain mountain gullies. in woods Juniper berries are are used used to to add add flavour flavour to to marinades, marinades, and (sazerkraut, thrushes, as with certain foods (sauerkraut, as seasoning seasoning with certain foods gin. blackbirds, distillation of of gin. They are are also also used in the distillation blackbirds, etc.). etc.). They

(vm DE MediJUNIPER on GENIVRE) cemivnn) -- MediWINE. GENEVRETTE cENEvRETTE (VIN JLTNIPER WINE. (See BEVERAGES, cinal berries. (See BEVERAGES, drink made made from juniper berries. cinal drink Juniper hippocras.) Juniper hippocras.) to be in This a wine which used to be made in This name is is also also given to a the Gtinais seeds. district from absinthe absinthe and and juniper seeds. Gfltinais district
521 521

JUPITER'S JUPITER'S BEARD BEARD

julietue : first Slicing Slicing vegctables vegetablesjulienne: tirst and and second second steps steps ((Larousse) Larousse)

JOUBARBE JUPITER'S BEARD. Jot BARBE

plants plants with with fleshy fieshy leaves. leaves. Among these are the houseleek houseleek or wild artichoke, artichoke, and the the white white stonecrop, which which is edible, its wild

given to several Name given

leaves being being eaten eaten in in salad. salado leaves

Juniper berries berries Juniper (Rap) (Rap)

(f <i mile) mile) from from Pau. Pau. A A fine fine wine wine is is made made there there which, which, it is is said, was greatly greatly prized prized by by King King Henry Henry fV IV of of France. was Legend has has it it that that when the the king was born, his grandgrandLegend
father, the the King King of of Navarre, Navarre, after after having having rubbed rubbed the the baby's baby's father, of garlic, garlic, made made him swallow swallow a a few few drops of lips with with a a clove clove of lips Juranon. The The royal royal infant infant having having come come tlrough through this this Jurangon. bacchic ordeal ordeal very very creditably, creditably, his his grandfather, grandfather, in a frenzy bacchic of enthusiasm, enthusiasm, cried: cried: 'You 'Vou are are a real real B6arnais.' Barnais.' of White Jurangon Juranon is is a a full-blooded full-blooded and intoxicating intoxicating wine. White With age, age, it it acquires acquires a a strong strong flavour flavour of of Madeira. Madeira. With A red red Jurangon Juranon is is also also made, made, but but is is less less popular popular than than the the A white. These These wines wines are are made made by by mixing mixing the the grapes grapes of of several several white. different vines vines in in the the vat, vat, bul but, curiously curiously enough, enough, the the grapes grapes of different the Jurangon Juranon vine vine are are not not among among them. them. the

Basses-Pyrnes, I 1 km. JURANON - Small Small town town in the Basses-Pyr6nees, JLJRAI\CON

522 522

moistened with liqueur, liqueur, wine or syrup. fruit such such as as apricots, Take a selection of of mixed Take a mixed fresh fresh fruit pineapple, raspberries, melon melon and pineapple, peaches, peaches, strawberries, raspberries, watermelon. skin the fruit. waterrnelon. Where necessary, skin fruit. Cut it it all aIl up into small, thick slices slices and place in a bowl pressed into pressed down inco a bucket of crushed ice. a j litre (seant (scant pint, pint, Champagne, 1 Bring to the the boil I 1 bottle boUle Champagne, 2f cups) red Bordeaux wine, I scant f cup) 2i 1 dl. (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, seant! ground pinch of grouod sugar and and a Madeira, 2 or a pinch or 3 tablespoons sugar Madeira, pour it on i ice and and pour it over over the cinnamon. cinnamon. Chili Chill Ihis this mixture on fruit. Chili serve. Chill again again and and serve. Kaltschale witr strawberry prr6e. ret,rscHAle A rA, Kaltscbale l'Vith punrp DE FRArsEsPURE FRAISES - Embed a bowl in crushed ice. Fill it with fruit as as indicated above. Make a a pur6e of of strawberries as fruit ndicated above. lb., 7 cups) very a fine sieve sieve I kg. (2i lb., follows: Rub through lhrough a (8 OZ., g. (8 ripe and 225 225 g. oz., 2 cups) cups) redcurrants. ripe strawberries and (lf pints, generous quart) light Dilute this puree pure with witb I 1 litre (li sugar syrup and! and f bottle Champagne previously boule '-'"'"'''''<>l~''''' nrp"-,,rll,cl\J brought to the boil and crulled. chilled. Pour over the fruit and serve chilled.

KALTSCHALE (Russian (Rlissian cookery) -A fruit salad salad liberally -A

KANGAROO. KANGOUROU r,c,NcouRou flesh of of Ihis this Australian The flesh KANGAROO. - The mammal is soup s is a a delicacy delicacy in Kangaroo tail in is edible. edible. Kangaroo mammal tai! soup Germany. It is also sold commercially. commercially. Gerrnany.
KAcUE KASHA (Russian cookery). KACHE - Russian dish of cooked buckwheat. There are several ways of preparing it. (l lb.) buckwheat, I teaspoon salt,25 g. Ingredients.500 Ingredients. 500 g. (lIb.) (l oz., o2.,2 tablespoons) butter. (1 2 tablespoons) to pick out any black grains. 1. l. Sort the buckwheat ta - these people tind find un~ unwhich people husk which still covered with the hard husk are are stijl covered wilh pan without grease glease or liquid, until until sightly. Cook in a a frying pan grains acquire a colour. Put nto into an an ovena Iight light golden colom. the grains just proof dish. dish, season with salt, add add the butter, and pour in just Bake in a a slow slow oven oven for 2j to to cover. Sake enough enough boiling water to caver. grains should should fall the grains It will have have a a thin crust but but the hours. It 3 hours. apart easily. easily put the in a the buckwheat buckwheat in a 2. Using same proportions, put Using the the same cover with cold cold saucepan, add add salt and melted butter, cover double saucepao, a low heat for for J 3 hours. rryater, stir, and cook OD on a water, pour and pour with boiling water and scald wilh 3. Wash the buckwheat, scald cover with salt salt and and butter, butter, cover liquid. Put in a a seucepan witb off off the the liquid, Put in boil, stir, stir, and and transfer with boiling water, bring again to the boil, hours. for 3 3 hours. into a a double double saucepan. saucepan. Cook for iota (l lb.) g. (1 KAcITE 500 g. lb.) DE KACHE Soak 500 Kasha crotons. cro0tons. CROTONS cRo0roNs DE - Soak until it it forrns forms a a thick thick warm water water un\il crushed crushed buckwheat buckwheat in in warrn put it it in in a a large earthenware earthenware porridge. Season with salt salt and and put porridge. Season wirb pot.

2t

crust Bake a hot oven for Sake in a for 2 hours. hours. Remove Rcmovc the thick cnlst not stick sticksurface. Scoop out all formed on the surface, ail the porridge not a piece a bowl. of of the pan and put in a ing lng to ta the sides of bowL Add a pe of Mix weil spatula. Press well with a spatula. butter butter about the size of an egg. Mix Press 'dough' a 'dough' the the porridge between between 2 saucepan lids lids to to make make a (* inch) thick. Cut into t 1 cm. (! inlO shapes shapes with wth a pastry-cutter paslry-cutler and brown them in clarifiod clarified butter. butter. served with shchi, borshch These buckwheat buckwheat crofitons crotons are s.erved and other other soups. aod A(x CHAMPIGNONS cuAMpIGNoNs Kasha with with mushrooms. Kasha mllsbrooms. KAcITE KACHE AUX - Prepare the buckwheat porridge as indicated above, adding to it it putting it in the sliced mushrooms tossed in butter before putting oven. aven. pot, with handed fresh butter Serve in in the cooking pot, Serve the cooking with fresh butter handed separately. PARMESAN KAcITE DE DE SARRASlN AU PARMESAN Parmesan. KACHE SARRASIN AU Kasha with Parmesan. porridge as indicated ahove. above. When it is Make the buckwheat porridge from of the soft baked, remove remove the crust f rom the top and use part of porridge to a deep dish, or or a a buttered to line line a buttered boat-shaped dsh, grated Parmesan porridge with grated gratin dish. Sprnkle Parmesan Sprinkle the the porridge gratin porridge of porridge and melted butter. Spread another layer of cheese and grated Parmesan butter. sprinkle with grated on top and sprinklewith Parmesan and melted butler. with Parmesan Parmesan the surface, surface, sprinkle with full, smooth the When it is full, Wben Serve with with me\ted melted in the oven. oven. Serve and melted butter and brown in (q.v.) stock. and estouffade (q.v.) butter and poI.oNArs - Pck Pick over, over, blanch blanch and KAcITE POLONAIS Polish kasha. kasha. KACHE Polisb (5f pints, pints, Simmer it gently in 3 litres (5~ hull 250 g. (9 oz.) barley. Simmer size of an egg. butter uer about the sue G pints) milk with a piece of bu Remove from from the stove. Stir until the barley is fully cooked. Remove as for for (9 OZ., eggs beaten beateir as g. (9 Add 250 250 g. oz., generous cup) butter, 6 eggs (6 tablespoons, cup) sour sour tablespoons, seant scant -t dl. (6 an omelette, and and 1 dl. an + cup) cream. Bake in a mould. Bake charlotte mould, in a buttered charlotte Put this mixture in napkin and and serve serve the kasha a napkin in a hot oven. mould in oven. Wrap the mould hOI with double cream. in it. Serve wilh (18 oz., g. (18 500 g. KAcITE DE DE SEMOULE sEMouLE Semolina kasha. KACHE Semolina - Pour 500 for an Beat 2 2 eggs as as for an on a a slab. slab. Beat semolina on 3 cups) Smolensk Smolensk semolina pour over the so that that the the Mix well sa the semolina. semolina. Mix and pour omelette and mixture to dry dry moistened. Leave the mixture semolina is thorougbly thoroughly moistened. semolina a food food mill mill or straioer. strainer. through a a very moderate oven. Put through in a pints) milk pints, 4| pnts) 250 g. (9 oz., milk with with 250 Boil 2 2 litres litres (3| pnts, Boil Season. Simmer generous cup) butter, semolina. Season. butter. Pour in the semolina. brown and brown gently, stirring frequently. Put into a a serving serving dish and butter. in a hot oven. Serve with melted butter.

See CHEESE. CHEESE. KAUNAS - See

(furki$ cookery) -- Name Turkey for for Name used used in in Turkey KEBAB (Turkish KEBAB is skewered skewered meat. feature is dishes whose whose principal feature various dishes
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KEFIR KFIR
metal or wood. wood, The The meat - mutton, The skewers are are of metal lamb or buffalo buffalo pepper, - is cut into squares, seasoned with pepper, salt, thyme thyme and and powdered powdered bay bay leaves. leaves, Square pieces pieces of salt, skewer between mutton fat on the skewer fat are placed on between the pieces pieces of meaL In ln Turkey, mutton fat fat takes the place of bacon. The meat. served plain, skewered skewered meat is grilled grilled over hot embers, and is served plain, with lemon or with various various garnishes. garnishes. cALETTE Kebab galette. galette. KEBAB EN GALETTE - Cut into thick squares a boned shoulder of lamb. lamb, Steep the the pieces in in milk, milk, and a boned place them them on skewers with squares squares of of green pepper, pepper, tomato, tomato, onion and and bay bay leaves leaves between. between, Sprinkle with with powdered onion embers. thyme. Grill over hot embers. on a Take Take the the pieces pieces off off the the skewers. skewers, Arrange Arrange them them on (q.v.) (thin cake) made of galette ga/elle (q,v,) of wheaten wheaten flour. fiouL Cover with finely chopped chopped onions onions previously previously browned in butter. butter. Moisten Moisten another wheaten wheaten galette, gale/le, with brown stock and cover with another which should be be piping hot. Shish-kebab, which which is is the the Turkish Turkish name name for for skewered skewered Shish-kebab, mutton mut ton cooked in this this way, is also served served with pilaf pilaf of of rice or with chick chiek peas peas and raw finely finely sliced onions. onions, spit some on an Tchevir me me kebab - Place on an upright spit sorne thin slices of of mutton, mutton. alternating alternating with pieces of mutton fat. faL This spit turns tu rus itself itself in front of of an upright grill. grilL As the meat meat is cooked the pieces pieces are slit sIit lengthwise, taken off the spit spi! one after after another, another, and served with yogurt, pilaf pilaf off ofrice, of riee, etc. etc,

(i pint, scant and 4 dl. seant 2 cups) Continue simmering simmering dl. (! cups) vinegar. Continue for for 15 15 to 20 minutes or until untiJ the sauce is is thickened to the
desired point. Seal in hot sterilised sterilised jars or bottles. bottles, desired KETMIE KETMIEand known as Plant, the fruit of which is edible and (See OKRA.) okra, gumbo or ladies'fingers. ladies' fingers. (Sec OKRA,) okra, KHLODNIK (Polish (polish and and KIILODNIK Rllssian cookery). cookery). KoLoDNIK KOLODNlK Russian
Iced soup, popular in Poland, its country country or origin, and soup, very popular Russia, in Russia.
-

It is made as follows:
Wash and and blanch4large blanch 4 large handfuls hand fuIs of of tender tender beetroot beetroot leaves. leaves, Wash

a handful Chop finely. finely, Add Add to to these these a handful of of finely finely chopped, Chop
and drained drained chervil, tarragon, tarragon, chive, fennel and blanched and shallot. embedded in chopped ice, and herbs in a a dish embedded Put these herbs (scant pint, moisten moisten them them with t litre litre (seant pint, Zf, 2i- cups) cucumber brine, Add Add the the same sa me amount of kvass (q.v.), (q,v,), a drink very brine. popular in serving, season io Russia. Russia. Just before serving, season the soup with following garnishes: garnishes: salt and a pinch of fine sugar. Add the following erayfish tails, 500 500 g. (l (1 lb.) diced, diced, braised sturgeon, sturgeon, 4 or 5 5 48 crayfish tablespoons diced, diced, fresh fresh cucumber. Add Add 3 dl. dl. (+ (} pint, pint, licups) sieved sour cream and I 1 or 2 pieces of ice. ice, Serve with quarterod quartered hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs eggs sprinkled sprinkled with with finely chopped chervil chervil and fennel. fenneL

l|

KID. KID,

Fermented milk of Caucasian origin. origin. Strictly it it should be made of camels' milk but, in practice, it is made made from from cows' cows' milko milk, skimmed skimrned or or not, not, according according to to taste. tas te. Fermentation Fermentation is induced by means of of kifir kfir bacteria. bacteria. When the bacteria bacteria have been added added to the milk it is put put in bottles bottles with patent patent stoppers stoppers and kept for a period in a hot cupboard. cupboard. After a day, mild kifir kfir is obtained. obtained, This This is slightly laxative. After After two two days, days, mediun medium kifir kftr is is obtained, obtained, which wbich is is not laxative. Strong Strongkifir kfir is obtained obtained after after three three days of of fermentafermentation. It Il is is slightly constipating and and contains contains 2'5 25 per cent alcohol. alcohoL Kifir Kfir has a a rather sour taste. tas te, It lt is frothy and contains a greater alcohol according greater or or lesser lesser proportion proportion of alcohol according to to the period period of of fermentation. fermentation, The casein casein shows signs sigos of peptipeptinisation in the form of thin flakes. flakes, Kifir Kfir is easily easily digestible and is often recommended for invalids. invalids.

KEFIR KFIR

KEFTESKEBABS KEITES-KE8ABS (furkish (Turkish cookery) - Made Made from from small small

raw meat ofraw meat (mutton, (mutton, veal or or buffalo), buffalo), skewered, skewered, grilled slices of slices and served with pilaf pilaf of of rice and the the juices juices of of roast meat. meaL

cHsvREAU, CHEVREAU, cABRr CABRI - Young goat, goat, slaughtered slaughtered before The meat beingweaned. being weaned, The meat of of the kid is notvery not very substantial substantial but it is not unwholesome, as some sorne people people believe. believe. In 10 French French butchery butchery sucking kids thirty thirly to forty fort y days old are called titards, ttards, the other, three or four months months old, are called ca lied broutards. broutards, All Ail the methods methods of of preparation preparation given given for very young lamb are applicable applicable to kid kid (see (see LAMB). LAMB), As As the the meat is is rather rather tasteless it has to be well weil seasoned. seasoned, The roast roast kid kid of Israel perfumes perfumes the the pages pages of the the Bible Bible with its appetising aroma. It Il is the roast of of patriarchs patriarchs and kings. To this day, the bedouin bedouin in his tent solemnly 'stews' 'stews' his kid on festive occasions; and in Cambodia Cambodia and Burrra, Durma, the kid is the traditional dish for engagement engagement celebrations. celebrations, In ln the the Middle Ages, it it held he Id its own among quarters of venison and heads ofboar, of boar, dressd dressed herons herons and white white swans. swans, Even Even at at the time of the the kings kiogs of Navarre, the kid kid of the Pyr6n6es Pyrnes was considered the chief attraction of the Easter Easter feasts. And the gallant gallant B6arnais Barnais who was to become become Henry IV IV had occasion occasion more more than th an once once to to wash down down the the Easter Easter kid with a fine fine Jurangon Juranon wine.

KIDNEYS. KIDNEYS, RocNoNs ROGNONS

multi-Iobed. multi-lobed.

KETCHUP KETCHIJP or CATSUP CATSUP - Ketchup is a condiment condiment rather rather than a a sauce in the the proper proper sense of the word. It Il is manumanufactured commercially North commereially and much much used used in England and North America. America, It Il is also made made in home home kitchens. kitchens, Mushroom Mushroom ketchup or or catsrp. catsup. KETcHIIn KETCHUP Ar.rx AUX cHAMprcCHAMPIGjar layers NoNs NONS - Put in a salting saltingjar layers of of fresh sliced mushrooms mushroomsabout about t 1 cm. cm, (* (t inch) deepdeep - and sprinkle sprinkle each each layer layer with table salt, salt, pepper pepper and allspice. allspice, Leave Leave the the mushrooms mushrooms in the salt for 5 or 6 days in a cool cool place. place, Press to extract all ail the the juice. juice. Boil this juice. juice, Season Season with with pepper, pepper, thyme, thyme, bay, bay, ginger, ginger, marjoram marjoram and and a a little tomato tomato paste. paste, Leave Leave to cool. cooL Filter Filter and bottle. bottle, Tonato Tomato ketchup. KErcHr.Jp KETCHUP Ar.lx AUX roMArEs TOMATES'up 3i 31 kg. kg. - Cut up (8 lb.) lb,) unpeeled unpeeled tomatoes, 6 medium medium onions, onions, 2 sweet sweel red red peppers and 2 garlic peppers and garlic cloves. cloves, Cover with water water and and boil boil gently until unti] the vegetables vegetables are 3oft. soft. Strain through a sieve. sieve. Tie Tie in a bag bag I l red pepper,2 pepper, 2 bay bay leaves, leaves, I 1 tablespoon tablespoon chopped celery, I ] tablespoon L1.blespoon mustard mustard seeds, I 1 teaspoon teaspoon peppercorns peppercorns and I 1 stick cinnamon, cinnamon, and add this, tbis, with I 1 tablespoon salt, salt, juice. Boil to thejuice. Boil down down by by half, half, stirring stirring frequently. frequently. Add 100 100 g. g, to the (4 oz., * t cup) brown brown sugar, 100 100 g. (a (4 oz., oz.,! cup) white sugar sugar cup) white

- Pigs' Pigs' and and sheep's kidneys kidneys are are the shape of a haricot (shell) bean; bean; calves' and ox kidneys are

sought-after Calves' and lambs' kidneys are delicate and sought-after foodstuffs. foodstuffs. Pigs' Pigs' kidneys, a little richer richer and with a sweetish sweetish weil thought of. Ox and sheep's kidneys kidneys are tas te, are less well taste, tough lough and often taste taste of of urine. kidneys. RocNoNs ROGNONS DE coe COQ - These are used mainly Cocks' kidneys. as as an an ingredient ingredient in garnishes, but they may also be used, used, various ways, ways, as hot hot hors-d'euvre hors-d'uvre ot or small entrdes, entres, cooked in various in in the same sa me way as cocks'combs cocks' combs (q.v.). (q,v.). To prepare a garnish, wash -..rash firm, white white cocks'kidneys cocks' kidneys in several waters. waters. Put them into a small saucepan saucepan with water, a pinch pinch of of salt, salt, a little little butter butter and and a few drops of of lemon lemon juice. juice. Star! cooking over a a good good heat. hea!. As soon as as the the liquid Start begins to boil boil turn the heat heat very low and cook, cook, covered, for begins l0 10 to 12 minutes, minutes, taking ta king care to avoid boiling. boiling. Use Use according according to ta the the recipe recipe chosen. chosen. Kidneys Kidneys saut6ed sauted with with Madeira. Madeira. RocNoNs ROGNONS slur6s SAUTS e,u AU rrl.q,oinr kidneys sliced sliced and and sautEod sauted in MADRE - Calves' or lambs' kidneys butter. Madeira Madeira is is poured poured into ioto the cooking pan pan and and this this butter. sauce is diluted with Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE.) SAUCE,) sauce

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KITCHEN EQUIPMENT EQUIPMENT KITCHEN

( Scarnati) Preparing kidneys kidneyson skewer(Scarnali) onaaskewer Preparing

KILKIS or or NORWEGIAN NORWEGIAN ANCHOVIES ANCHOVIES -- Tiny Tiny fish fish found found KILKIS mainly in in northern northern European waters. preserved like waters. It It is is preserved like the the mainly anchovy and and is is very very weil well liked liked in in Russia. Russia. It It is is served served as as an an anchovy (see HORS-D'UVRE, hors-d'euvre (see HORS-D'(EUVRE, Hot Hot hors-d'uvre). hors-d'euvre). hors-d'uvre

(furkish and KIMALI BUREK BUREK (furkish and Russiao Russian cookery). cookery). KI KTMALT KIMALI MALI BEURREcK Stuffed pancake rolled rollod into the the shape of a a cigar, shape of cigar, BEURRECK - Stuffed filled with with forcemeat forcemeat or or sorne some other (See other filling, filling, and and fried. fried. (See filled HORS-D'(EUVRE, Hot hors-d'uvre, hors-d'euvre, Beurrecks Beuruecks d la la turque.) turque.) HORS-D'UVRE,
KINGFISH. TASSARD TASsARD --Large in ail all oceans. oceans. There There KINGFISH. Large fish found in species. The The flesh flesh is firm and and white is firm white and and it it are many different species. as tunny fish. fish. is prepared prepared in the same way as

KIPPER These, strictly strictly called called kippered kippered herrings, herrings, are are KIPPER - These, and smoked. smoked. herrings which are slit open and Kippers are very good good to eat. They are usually grilled grilled and Kippers and (see served with butter or or Matre Matte d'htel served with melted melted butter d'h6tel butter butter (see BUTTER, Compound butters). They can butters). They can also also be BUTTER, Compound be boiled. (See (See HERRINGS.) HERRINGS.)

KIRSCH Spirit with with a a very very strong strong bouquet, KIRSCH bouquet, chiefly - Spirit

manufactured and in Germany. The finest manufactured in easten France and finest kirsch comes cornes from Alsace. Alsace. Black Black Forest kirsch kirsch also also enjoys great reputation. a is distilled from from fermented ripe a great reputation. It is ripe wild
cherries. cherries.

Kirsch is highly prized pize.d by connoisseurs. connoisseurs. It is used great used a a great deal for flavouring flavouring in confectionery confectionery and ptisserie. and pdtisserie.

KISEL. KIssEL KISSEL - Russian dessert made from from ail kinds of all kinds berries. berries. It It is served served in in a a charlotte charlotte mould with with thick thick cream and can can be be eaten either hot or cold. KISSING CRUST.
BArsuRE BAISURE -

pale pale soft soft crust crust where where one loaf loaf has has touched another in baking. baking. covers covers all ail the the utensils utensils used used in the the kitchen kitchen for the preparation preparation and and cooking cooking of food. The utensils, of various various shapes, are made made of of copper copper or or other other metals metals such su ch as as nickel, nickel, aluminium or

Bakery term describing the

KITCHEN KITCHEN EQUIPMENT. EQUIPMENT. nlrrmrE BATTERIE DE cursrNE CUISINE- This term

bimetals, bimetals, silver-plated silver-plated copper, copper, iron, cast-iron, cast-iron, bronze, sheetsheetiron, iron, wrought-iron, wrought-iron, etc., etc., of of special fireproof fireproof earthenware or china, china, or or of of hardened hardened glass glass which which is is also fireproof. fireproof. We We know know very very little little about about the the first fust kitchen kitchen utensils. The Egyptians, the the Assyrians Assyrians and and the the Persians Persians principally principally used used Egyptians, earthenware and and bronze bronze vessels, vessels, big-bellied big-bellied in shape, shape, with earthenware and and without without handles. handles. They They also also used used the the spit and, for cookcooking cakes cakes and and biscuits, biscuits, they they had had baking baking dishes dishes rather rather like ing those we we use use nowadays. nowadays. those

generally use The Jews The Jews did did not not generally use earthenware earthenware vessels vesselsfor for purposes; most cooking purposes; potsand cooking panswere most of of their their pots and pans were made made of of metal. To To extract meta!. extract the pots in the meat meat from from the the big big pots in which whichfood food destined to destined to be prepared, they be offered offered to to God God was was prepared, they used usedaabig big two-pronged fork, two-pronged fork, the the forerunner forerunner of of our our table table fork, fork, which which did not not make did make its its appearance appearance until until the the seventeenth seventeenth century. century. The Greeks, The Greeks, for preparations, used for their their culinary culinary preparations, greatly used greatly improved ver vessels. improved bronze, bronze, iron iron or or sil silver vessels. They They also also had hadsorne some in in earthenware. earthenware. Almost Almost ail all these these vessels vessels were were conical conical in in shape shape and and therefore therefore not not very very deep. provided with deep. They They were were provided with lids, lids, and and either either handles handles or or detachable detachable r-ings. rings. Among principal kitchen Among the the principal kitchar utensils utensils used used by by the the Greeks Greeks was was the the chytra, chytra, a pan used a kind kind of of earthenware earthenware pan used for for cooking cooking meats meats and and stews. stews. It It was was apparently apparently in in these these utensils utensils that that the the famous famous Spartan prepared. Or Spartan broths broths were were prepared. perhaps this Or perhaps this historical historical dish dish was was made made in in the the kakkabi, kakkabi, a a fairly fairly large large threethreelegged pot. The legged pot. The Greeks Greeks also pot, which also had had another another pot, which can can be be considered prototype of considered as as the the prototype of the the earthenware earthenware casserole casserole which which we we use use nowadays nowadays for pot-au-feu. This, for the the pot-au-feu. This, filled filled with with cooked (probably cooked cooked fruit fruit (probably cooked in in wine wine and and sweetened sweetened with with honey) honey) was was carried god, Bacchus, carried to to the the altar altar of of the the god, Bacchus, on on the the third third day day of of the the feast feast of of Anthesteria, the the famous famous festival festival in in honour of of Dionysus. The The Greeks Greeks also also had had bronze bronze casseroles casseroles which which resembled resembled those now in in use. use. For For cooking cooking meat meat and pieces they and fish fish cut cut in in pieces they had a a pan similar similar to the the type type which in France today in France is called today is called coupe coupe lyonnaise, lyonnaise, and and which which the the Greeks Greeks called called teganon. teganon. In In order to place al! all these these metal metal or or earthenware earthenware receptac1es receptacles on on the fire, fire, the the Greeks Greeks used used a a triangular support, support, the the tripod, tripod, that is is still in use use in country kitchens. Kitchen Kitchen utensils utensils used used by by the Romans were the Romans were similar similar to to those those of the the Greeks. Greeks. It It is is also also a a known known fact fact that that Greek Greek cooks cooks brought the brought the art of cooking to to Rome. Rome. The The Romans, Romans, who who were were sensual, voluptuous voluptuous people, with a great love a great love of of luxury luxury in in ail all things, made made kitchen utensils utensils not not only only of of bronze bronze but but also also of of silver. Among the the treasures treasures of of Bosco-Reale, Bosco-Reale, which which are are kept kept in the the Louvre, various various kitchen kitchen utensils utensils of of this this type type can can be be seen. Kitchen utensils utensils used used by seen. Kitchen by the the Romans Romans inc1uded included the the c/ibanus, an earthenware utensil utensil with clibanus, an earthenware pierced in with holes holes pierced in it, it, used used for cooking various for various dishes, pastry, in dishes, mainly mainly pastry, in hot hot ashes; ashes; craticula, a meat and craticula, a grill for for cooking meat and fish fish on glowing on the the glowing and the the apala, embers; and apala, a a dish dish with with cavities cavities of varying sizes of varying sizes hollowed out, out, which which was was used used for hollowed for cooking cooking eggs. eggs. Gauls and and the the Gallo-Romans The Gauls Gallo-Romans had had earthenware earthenware and and metal kitchen utensils utensils somewhat somewhat similar metal similar to to those those of of the the Greeks and the Romans. The Celts knew nothing of Greeks and the Romans. The Celts knew nothing of the the

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Water cxcavations at Pompeii provided Water beaters heaters found found in iD the excavations provided

with pipes pipes to make make the the best best possible possible use use ofthe of the heat heat from the sa me as for the fueplace; fireplace; the principle principle is the same perfectioned our our most most perfectioned tubular tubular boilers boilers

refinements refinements of of the the sumptuous sumptuous cookery cookery of of Imperial Imperial Rome Rome and their their pots pots and and pans pans were were rudimentary. rudimentary. With the coming coming of the the Merovingian Merovingian era, era, kitchen kitchen utensils utensils began began again again to to improve. improve. Some Sorne specimens specimens of of these these have have survived, survived, and and we we can see in museurns museums the the magnificent magnificent bronze bronze vessels vessels in in which which the the food food was was prepared. prepared. From From reading reading Charlemagne's Charlemagne's Capitularies, Capitu/aries, it it seems seems evident evident that that in in succeeding succeeding centuries centuries French French kitchen kitchen utensils utensils were were improved improved still still further. further. After After the the Crusades Crusades a great great number number of of richly richly worked worked metal metal utensils utensils - ewers, ewers, salvers, salvers, cauldrons cauldrons - were were brought brought to to Europe Europe and and served served as as models models for for the the artisans artisans of ofthe the West West in in the the manufacture manufacture of ofmagnificent magnificent utensils. utensils. In In French French museums museums and and private private collections collections can can be be seen, seen, for for example, example, cooking cooking pots pots in in engraved engraved bronze bronze or or artistically artistically beaten beaten copper; copper; wrought-iron wrought-iron pot-hangers, pot-hangers, which which are are veritveritable able works works of of art; art; kitchen kitchen forks, forks, which which in in those those days days were were called called roables; roab/es; turning turninggridirons gridirons; big-bellied pots pots and and kettles kettles; ; big-bellied ; the acoste-pot (old (old version version of of the the accote-pot,'tilt-pot'), accote-pot, 'tilt-pot'), and and the acoste-por other other kitchen kitchen implements implements which which are are all aIl excellent excellent examples examples of of ironmongery. ironmongery. To To show show what what a a collection collection of of kitchen kitchen utensils utensils in in the the sixteenth-century sixteenth-century manor manor house hou se was was like, like, we we reproduce reproduce an an extract extract from from an an inventory inventory made made in in 1530 1530 at at the the chiteau chteau of of La La Mothe-Chandenier: Mothe-Chandenier:

'In : 'In the the kitchen kitchen of ofthe the aforesaid aforesaid ch0teau chteau of ofla la Mothe Mothe: '18 '18 silver silver dishes dishes and and 18 18 escuelles escuelles (mediaeval (mediaeval version version of of icuelle cuelle - bowl) bowl) bearing bearing the the coat coat of of arms arms which which the the late late Master Master and and the the late late Lady Lady brought brought with with fhem them from from Javarzay Javarzay when when they theycame camehere here to to the the chdteau chteau of ofla la Mothe. Mothe. 'The 'The following following utensils utensils were were found found in in the the said said kitchen: kitchen: 'Six 'Six large large dishes, dishes, three three small, small, and and ten ten bowls, bowls, all aIl utensils utensils engraved engravedwith withthe thelate lateMaster's Master'scoat coatof ofarms; arms; 'One 'Onepot-hanger; pot-hanger; 'Two 'Twobeaten-iron beaten-iron cookers; cookers; 'One 'Onebig bigiron iron spit; spit; 'Then 'Then two two more more smaller smaller spits; spits; 'One 'Oneiron iron fish fish slice, slice, one onegrid; grid ; 'Item, 'Item, one onebig bigcooking cooking pot; pot; 'Item, 'Item,one onebig bigcast-iron cast-ironpot potwith withperforations; perforations; 'Item, another another iron iron pot pot of ofone one seilie sei/e (a (a measure measure of ofcapacapa'Item, city); city) ; 'Item, three seillies, 'Item, two twobig bigcauldrons cauldronsof ofthree seilles, without without rims; rims; 'Item, 'Item, another anothercauldron, cauldron,of oftwo twoseillies; sei/fes; 'Item, 'Item, another, another,of ofone oneseillie; sei/fe; 'Item, 'Item, two two small smallcauldrons cauldronsof ofhalf halfseillies; seilles; 'Item, two two big big round round bronze bronze pans pans of ofabout about fotn four seillies sei/fes 'Item, each; each; 'Item,plus plusanother anotherround roundpan panof oftwo twoseillies sei/fes(with (withaapiece piece ' Item, broken brokenoff: off;

'One wooden press for pressing pressing capons; 'Two iron spoons; spoons; 'One 'One small skimmer; skimmer; 'One round bronze bronze pan pan with a long handle for cooking cooking fish; 'Two 'Two old dripping dripping pans; pans; 'One 'One small smal! metal metal mortar mortar and and pestle; pestle; 'Three iron iron frying pans pans with with long long handles; handles; 'Three 'A table table on on two two trestles; trestles; 'A 'One 'One old bench bench with with bar bar back; back; 'One 'One cupboard cupboard with with two two glass glass doors, which which can can be be locked with a a key; key; with 'Another old cupboard, for keeprng keeping plates and and dishes, 'Another with two two glass glass doors, doors, which which can can be be locked locked with with a key; key; with 'Six big big copper copper candlesticks; candlesticks; 'Six 'Six 'Six other other medium-sized medium-sized candlesticks candlesticks; ; 'One deep deep copper copper basin basin for for washing washing hands; hands; 'One 'Two deep deep bronze bronze candlesticks, candlesticks, in in the the shape shape of of a a cup; 'Two 'In the the larder larder near near the the said said kitchen: kitchen : 'In 'Three long long shelves, shelves, but but there there was was no no meat meat there there except except for for 'Three one piglet, piglet, which which was was kept kept for for the the Master Master in in case case he he wanted wanted one it while while he he was was here. here. it 'The following following bottle-ware bottle-ware: 'The : 'Barrel of of Gascony Gascony wine; wine; 'Barrel 'Pitcher with with a a spout; spout; 'Pitcher 'Half-litre mugs; mugs; 'Half-litre 'One stone stone mustard mustard pot, pot, for for making making mustard, mustard, etc.; etc.; 'One 'One small small table table for for making making pastry.' pastry.' 'One

Our ancestors ancestors used used many many other other utensils utensils in in addition addition to to Our those mentioned mentioned in in the the inventory inventory quoted quoted above. above. those They had, had, among among others, others, the the horsehair horsehair sieve sieve or or tammy, tammy, They which, it it is is said, said, was was invented invented by by the the Gauls. Gauls. The The following following which, utensils were were also also in in use: use: the the couloir, couloir, a a large large strainer strainer with with a a utensils handle which which was was used used for for draining draining foods; foods; the the rastels raste/s or or handle raste/rier, iron iron hooks hooks on on which which food food was was hung; hung; pots pots and and rastelrier, kettles of ofall al! sizes; sizes; tartiires tartiresOaking (bakingtins); tins); skillets, skillets, saucepans, saucepans, kettles frying pans, pans, etc.; etc.; the thefiral fra/ -a a large large metal metal vessel vessel used used as as a a frying watercontainer; container; the theDecdasne, becdasne, a a pot pot with with a a handle handle and and a a long long water curved spout; spout; funnels, funnels, mostly mostly in in copper; copper; the the esmieure, esmieure, a a curved grater used used for for grating grating nutmeg nutmeg and and cheese. cheese. Nutmeg Nutmeg was was grater greatly valued valued in in those those days, days, as as we we know. know. 'Do 'Do you you like like greatly nutmeg? They They put put it it in in everything,' everything,' Boileau Boileau was was to to write write a a nuheg? few hundred hundred years years later. later. few In the the kitchens kitchens of of those those times times they they also also used used gridirons, gridirons, In mortars; spice-grinders; spice-grinders; various various ladles ladies which which were were called called mortars; pot/ouches and and poches; poches; minchoirs, minchoirs, long-bladed long-bladed knives knives used used potlouches for slicing slicing pork pork fat fat into into rashers; rashers; mincers mincers and and various various other other for utensilswhich whichare arestill stillin inuse usein inthe thepresent presentday. day. utensils Tin plating plating of ofpots pots and and pans pans was was already already known known at at that that Tin time. In In the the Homeric Homeric era era tin, tin, along along with with silver, silver, gold gold and and time.

526 s26

KITCHEN EQUIPMENT EQUIPMENT KITCHEN

The kitchen kitchen in in many many modern modern homes homes is is the the centre of family family centre of The living, especially especially in in the the ever increasing number ever increasing number of of areas areas where where living, domestic service service does not exist. does not exist. This This means means that that the the kitchen domestic kitchen must be be an an attractive attractive room room to to be be in, in, as as weil well as as an an efficient must efficient place in produce meals. in which which to to produce meals. Such Such a room in in many a room many cases place cases irtcludes a a dining dining area, area, either either a a table table or or counter counter space. space. The The includes basic requirements, requirements, the the stove stove and and the the refrigerator, refrigerator, are basic are dedefor appearance signed for appearance as as weil well as as usefulness, usefulness, but but besides besides these signed these appliances there there are are many many others others designed designed for for home home use use appliances which make preparation of make the the preparation of food food not not only only easy easy but but which enjoyable. Included Included in in an an ever ever expanding expanding list list of of such such enjoyable. appliances are are electric electric beaters, beaters, electric electric blenders for chopping, blenders for chopping, appliances pulverising and pur6eing, pressure pressure cookers, and pureing, cookers, machines machines for for pulverising slicing and and shredding shredding vegetables, vegetables, rtisseries, r6tisseries, thermostatithermostatislicing pans, waste cally controlled controlled frying frying pans, waste disposai disposal units, units, automatic automatic cally dish washers washers and and home home freezers. freezers. But But ail all this this equipment equipment does dish does not assure good food. assure good food. On the contrary, gourmets agree On the contrary, gourmets agree that that not much in in texture texture and and flavour flavour can can be sacrificed to be sacrificed to the the speed speed and and much efficiency of of many many of of the modern gadgets. One modern gadgets. One must must retain retain a efficiency a proportion. sense of of proportion. sense Kitchens in in small small restaurants restaurants and and inns inns are are usually usually an Kitchens elaboration of of a a domestic domestic kitchen, kitchen, but but the the modern kitchen kitchen elaboration designed for for large large hotels, hotels, restaurants restaurants and institutions may and institutions designed be compared compared to to a a factory. factory. Here the the utensils are tools of utensils are of the be trade and and are are built on on a a large large scale scale and and of sturdy sturdy materials. The kitchen kitchen is is divided divided into into many many departments, each each of of The head chef and assistants. There may be departwhich has its head ments for baked goods, goods, soups, roasts, fish, fish, salads salads and and horsments d'euvre, vegetables, vegetables, desserts, desserts, beverages. In In sorne some kit kitchens d'uvre, chens subdivided; in others they are these departments are further subdivided; All these departments are under the direction direction of a combined. Ali or head head chef chef who who is responsible for is responsible for the the whole manager or operation. On his staff there are usually one one or more dietioperation. plan the menus. tians to Trained kitchen menus. Trained kitchen engineers design tians to plan types and and specifications, but but each must kitchens of various types meet public more rigid public health requirements, which are today more and closely controlled than ever before. Specifications for a modern kitchen ieed 2000 kitchen designed designed in the U.S.A. U.S.A. to feed 2000 people people a day, day, but but capable capable of of feeding feeding 5000, 5000, include include the the following equipment: equipment:
3 3 electric ranges ranges 3 3 compartment compartment steamers steamers 2large 2 large tilting tilting kettles used for soups and vegetables vegetables 2 undercounter refrigerators refrigerators 2 undercounter I 1 bakers'revolving bakers' revolving tray oven oyen 2 2 cooks'tables cooks' tables with with sinks sinks

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French kitchen and table utensils of table utensils of the Middle Ages and the the Renaissance: French kitchen and the Middle Ages and Renaissance: ( l6th century); 2. Lidded cup (l4th century): 3. Copper pot with two l. Trencher Trencher (16th 1. century); 2. Lidded cup (14th century); 3. Copper pot with two (9th jug handles (l5th century); 4. (l6th century); century): 5. 5. Knife handles (9th century); 4. Metal Metal jug (15th century); Knife (16th century); 6. Mannite Marmite with (l4th century); with two two handles handles (14th (l5th century); century); 7. 7. Copper Copper kettle century); 6. kettle (I5th pitcher sculpted in 8. Copper with ewer (9th its oriental-style stand century)i 9. 8. Copper ewer with its oriental-style stand (9th cent ury) ; 9. Pitcher sculpted in the decoration (t5th century): Saint-Benoit church church in Paris (l5th 10. TwoTwothe decoration of of the the Saint-Benoit in Paris ntury); 10. branched l6th century); candlestick ( cenrury); II. I l. Cauldron Cauldron ( l5th century). century). brancbed candlestick (l6th (15th

bronze, to be bronze, was was considered considered to be one one of of the the precious precious metals. metals. History History tells tells us us that that the the Aedui, Aedui, the the people people who who inhabited inhabited ancient ancient Gaul, Gaul, invented invented metal metal plating plating and and it it is is thanks thanks to to this this discovery discovery that that vessels vessels and and kitchen kitchen utensils utensils were were made made in in such such a way that a way that tin, tin, applied applied on on copper, copper, could could not not be be distinguished distinguished from from silver. sil ver. There There are are many many people people who who protest protest against against the the disappeardisappearance ance of of the the archaic archaic spits spits or or such such other other utensils utensils formerly formerly used used in the kitchen. They are even even capable capable of of lamenting lamenting the the in the kitchen. They are passing of those those inconvenient inconvenient charioal charcoal ranges ranges - the the sloves stoves passing of about about which which Carme Carme complained complained when when he he said: said: 'The 'The coal is is killing These were were the the old-fashioned old-fashioned paillasses, paillasses, killing us!' us!' These laboriously kept up, where, laboriously kept up, where, in in live live charcoal charcoal embers, embers, stews stews and and braised braised dishes dishes simmered simmered and and sometimes sometimes caught caught fire. fire. In In 1849, 1849, Michel Michel Chevalier Chevalier wrote wrote in in the the Magasin Magasin PitPittoresque:'The toresque: 'The improvement improvement of of household household utensils utensils has has more more to to do do with with real real freedom freedom than than is is generally generally realised, realised, for for it it contributes contributes a a great great deal deal to to freedom freedom from from drudgery drudgery in in the the home, home, which which matters matters no no less less to to human human happiness happiness than than liberty liberty in in a a public public place. place. One One utensil utensil may may free free the the servants servants from from one one type type of of arduous arduous or or unhealthy unhealthy task, task, another another allows allows one one person to person to do do the the work work of of three three and, and, consequently, consequently, frees frees two two from from domestic domestic drudgery.' drudgery_' Modern Modem kitchen kitchen equipment eqoipment - Modern Modern kitchen kitchen equipment, equipment, either either in in domestic domestic or or institutional institutional kitchens, kitchens, includes includes such such utensils as well-sharpened saucepans, utensils as well-sharpened knives, knives, wire wire whisks, whisks, saucepans, frying frying pans, pans, casseroles, casseroles, braising braising pans, pans, kettles kettles and and strainers, strainers, and and many many inventions inventions which which in in recent recent years years have have contributed contributed much much to to make make culinary culinary operations operations easier easier and and have have taken taken the the drudgery drudgery out out of of cooking. cooking.
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I 60-quart (7O-litre) (70-litre) electric mixer mixer 1 60-quart

2 salad salad preparation preparation tables tables Salad refrigerator Salad refrigerator

Fish Fish refrigerator refrigerator 80-quart 80-quart (9OJitre) (90-litre) electric electric mixer mixer Mobile Mobile flour flour bin bin Room Room refrigerators refrigerators for for meat meat Room Room refrigerator refrigerator for for vegetables vegetables and dairy products products Room Room refrigerator refrigerator for for frozen frozen foods foods Baker's Baker's refrigerator refrigerator 'Pass-through' 'Pass-through' refrigerator refrigerator which which can can be be filled from from the the kitchen and opened opened on on the the serving serving side side kitchen side side and 5 pans used used for for soups soups and and sauces sauces 5 lO-quart 1O-quart (I2-litre) (l2-litre) tilting tilting pans Hot Hot food food table table Refrigerated Refrigerated cold co Id table table Milk Milk dispenser dispenser Cream Cream dispenser dispenser Tea Tea urn urn Coffee Coffee urn urn Electric Electric juice juice dispenser dispenser Electric Electric ice ice maker maker

KITCHEN EQUIPMENT EQUIPMENT KITCHEN

i,
i'{'d

Classic French pots and pans: 1. Casserole russe; 2. Saut pan (plat sauter); 3. Frying pan (sauteuse); 4. Smalt casserole russe; 5. Round cocotte; 6. Oval coppercocotte for cooking chicken en COCOlle; 7. Small copper cocotte for game; 8. Stew 4.Smallcasserolerusse;5.Roundcocotte;6.Ovalcoppercocotteforcookingchickenencocotte;T.Smallcoppercocotteforgame;8.Stew pan (marrnite (marmite d ragoot);9. ragot); 9. Large Large stock pot pot (grande marmite); marmite); 10. 10. Doublesaucepan(marmite)forsteamingpotatoes;ll.Braisingpan(braisiire)(Larozsse) Double saucepan (marmite) for steaming potatoes; Il. Braisiog pan (braisire) (Larousse)

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KITCHEN EQUIPMENT EQUIPMENT KITCHEN

Classic 3. Braising (braisidre)for filletof,beef; pan(braisire) forfillet of beef; Braising pan (casseroles) for forbain-marie; (poissonidre); 2. pans: 1. bain-marie;3. Saucepans (casseroles) fish kettle 2.Saucepans pots and Classic French l Copper kettle (poissonire); Copper fish French pots and pans: 4. pan (plaque d'office); 6. Pan for cooking harn (turbotidre); (jambonniire) ;7. ham(jarnbonnire); rurbot kettle kettle(turbotire); 7.Turbot (bassine or pan (bassine 4. Round Round stew t Copper .11g,:iilln|;1"1.,r.. stew pan or rondin rondin dragot); ragofit)' 5. 8. Fish pan (plaque poisson) (Larousse).

;fi?;.:;i6*:;:-g

529 529

KITCHEN TEAM TEAM KITCHEN

Addd to to these these utensils utensils there there are are many many machines machines for for Added serving food, food, for for disposing disposingof of rubbish rubbish and andfor for washing washing dishes. dishes. serving Many hotels hotels catering catering to to aa luxury luxury clientele clientele have have charcoal charcoal Many broilers and and rtisserie r6tisserie spits spits rotating rotating before before open opeir fires. fires. broilers
KITCHEN TEAM. TEAM. BRIGADE BRTcADE DE DE CUISINE In aa hotel cursrNE -- In hotel or or KITCHEN restaurant this this term term applies applies to to the the staff staffof kitchen. restaurant of aa kitchen. principle, a In principle, a kitchen kitchen team team of of aa relatively relatively important important In establishment, a a team team which which takes takes its its orders orders from from a a chef, chef, establishment, gros bonnet referrod to to as as the ('big-hat') in the gros bonnet ('big-hat') professional in professional referred jargon, consists of a chef sancler (sauce chef), who is conjargon, consists of a chef saucier (sauce chef), who is considered to to be be the the deputy deputy head head of of the the team; team; an an entremettier, entrernettier, sidered who has has charge preparation of charge of ofthe ofsoups, vegetables and and who the preparation soups, vegetables sweet courses; courses; a rdtisseur who, a rtisseur who, in in addition addition to to various various roasts, roasts, sweet prepares fried also prepares fried dishes grills; and, dishes and and grills; and, finally, gardefinally, a a gardealso (larder chef), manger (larder chefl, who who has has charge charge of of aU all the the supplies, raw supplies, raw manger prepares cold and cooked, cooked, and and prepares cold dishes dishes such galantines, such as as galantines, and pdtis, mousses, jellies, sees terrines, pts, mousses, etc. prepares the etc. He He also also prepares the jellies, sees terrines, to the the cutting cutting up up of poultry, game, of meat, meat, fish, fish, poultry, game, etc., etc., and and does does to all the the cold cold, hors-d'uvre hors-d'euvre relevant relevant to to the the kitchen kitchen service. service. ail Kitchen assistants, assistants, called called commis, commis, are are attached attached to to the the chef chef of of Kitchen each section. section. each If the the establishment establishment is is an an important important and and busy busy one, one, sorne some If (each team of these these sections sections (each team service semice is is called callod a a section, section, or or of partie, in in France), France), are are doubled. doubled. Thus Thus the the sauce sauce section section might might partie, have a a second second service service under under a a special special chef chefthe fish fish chef. chef. have - the Entremets becomes becomes a a separate separate section, section, also with a also with a chef chef at its at its Entremets head, usually usually the the soup soup chef, potagiste or chef, called called potagiste potager. The or potager. The head, (the section rdtisserie (the section in in charge charge of roasts) may of roasts) may be be supplesupplertisserie mented by by a a cook cook who who would would have have charge grills and charge of of ail all grills and mented would, therefore, therefore, be grillardin. be called called the the grillardin. would, In an an establishment establishment of greater importance, of still still greater importance, the the roastroastIn ing section, in in addition addition to to the roast chef chef proper and the ing section, the roast proper and the grillardin, also have have a (fryer), a a friturier (fryer), a noun which grillardin, would would also noun which probably does not exist in any dictionary probably does not exist in any dictionary but but is is accepted accepted in in culinary and means exactly what it says. says. culinary terminology terminology and means exactly what it Equally, the garde-manger, addition to Equally, the garde-manger, in in addition to the the actual actual head head of of this this important important section, section, might might be be supplementod supplemented by by the the inclusion of other chefs, each with his own inclusion of other chefs, each with his own speciality. speciality. One One might meat, etc. might have have the the charge charge of of hors-d'auvre, hors-d'uvre, another another of ofmeat, etc. chef an assistant assistant chef, chef, there there are are also also special special teams teams dealing dealing chef and and an with pdtissier and and several with pastry. pastry. These These would would include include a a chef chefptissier several assistants, and a hef g lacier. assistants, a a chef chefconfiseur confiseur and ac chef glacier. The art of The art of managing managing the the kitchen kitchen team team of of a a big big restaurant restaurant or or hotel hotel is is a a difficult difficult one. one. A A chef chef in in charge charge of of a a kirchen kitchen must must not not only only be be a a man man who who knows knows his hisjob job - his his art, art, we we should should say say inside but he he must must also also have have the the qualities qualities of of an an ideal ideal inside out, out, but administrator. The past (if time administrator. The time is is long long past (if it it ever ever existod existed at at all) ail) when when kitchens kitchens in in big big establishments establishments were were run run without without some sorne system of accounting. accounting. Today, Today, more more than than ever, ever, the the kitchen kitchen of of system of a a restaurant restaurant or or of of a a hotel hotel must must be be well weil organised, organised, everything everything must be foreseetr and carried must be foreseen and carried out out in in such such a a way way that that the the dishes, dishes, whilst whilst being being excellent excellent in in quality, quality, cost cost only only what what they they should should cost cost and and no no more. more. In In a a modern modem establishment establishment the the kitchen kitchen is is a a department department which which must must never never show show a a loss loss profit. always a always a profit. At At the the end end of of the the nineteenth nineteenth century century and and at at the the beginning beginning of of the the twentieth twentieth there there were were a a great great number number of of chefs chefs de de anisine cuisine (famous (famous gros gros bowtets), bonnets), who who had had charge charge of of kitchen kitchen teams: M. Prat, who for a long time teams: M. Prat, who for a long time had had charge charge of of the the kitchens kitchens at at the the Grand-Hotel Grand-Hotel in in Paris; Paris; Jean Jean Giroix, Giroix, who who dirocted directed the the kitchen kitchen at at the the Hotel Hotel de de Paris Paris in in Monte Monte Carlo; Carlo; L6opold Lopold Mourier, Mourier, who, who, after after having having directed direeted the the kitchen kitchen of of the the Maire Maire restaurant restaurant (now (now no no more) more) became became the the grand grand maitre matre of of various various famous famous restaurants, restaurants, such such as as the the Cafe Caf de de Paris, Paris, Armenonville, Armenonville, the the Pr6-Catelan, Pr-Catelan, Fouquet, Fouquet, etc. etc. The Thegreat great Escoffier, Escoffier, who who died died in in 1935, 1935,was was first first the the chef chefof of the the Petit Petit Moulin-Rouge, Moulin-Rouge, then then took took charge charge of of the the no no less less
530 530

famous kitchens kitchens of of the the old old Maire Maire restaurant, restaurant, then then the the famous Grand-Hotel at at Monte MonteCarlo Carlo and and the theSavoy Savoy in in London. London. He He Grand-Hotel finished his his active active career career at at the the Carlton Carlton Hotel Hotel in in London. London. finished Phil6as Gilbert Gilbert was was the the author author of of the the best best culinary culinary works works of of Philas our time. time. Other Other illustrious illustrious names names inc1ude include Tony Tony Girod, Girod, our Ninlias, Argentier, Argentier, Prosper Prosper Drenault, Drenault, Prosper Prosper Salles Salles and and Ninlias, Deland. Deland. It is is impossible impossible for give the for us us to to give the names names of gros of ail all the the gros It past who bowtets of of the the past who have have improved improved the the status status of of the the bonnets culinary art. art. We We can only mention can only mention chefs great private chefs of private of the the great culinary houses, such as Urbain Urbain Dubois, Dubois, mile Emite Bernard, Bernard, Armand Armand hou ses, su ch as Gouff6, Joseph Joseph Favre Favre and and Gastilleur, Gastilleur, sorne some of of whom whom had had Gouff, charge of of the the imperial imperial and royal kitchens. and royal kitchens. charge KNEADING OF OF DOUGH. DOUGH. FRAISAGE FRATSAcE -- This This operation operation conconKNEADING sists of of breaking breaking up up the the dough dough once once it it has has become become elastic, elastic, by sists by working it it with palm of with the the palm of the the hand. hand. The The object object of of handling handling working the dough dough in in this this way way is to obtain perfect mixture is to obtain a a perfeet mixture of of ail all the the the ingredients. ingredients.

Selection :L Selection of of cooks' cooks' knives knives: 1. Palette Palette knife knife (Couteau (Couteau h tartiner):Z. tartiner); 2. Carving Carving knife knife (Couteau (Couteau dc de cuisine);3. cuisine); 3. Slicing Slicing knife; knife; 4. 4. Chopping Chopping knife knife (Couteau (Couteau it abattre\: abattre); 5. 5. Filleting FilleLing knife knife for for fsh(Couteautronche fish (Couteau tranche lart):6.yegetable lard); 6. Vegeta ble knife knife (Couteaudffice) (Couteau d office) plnt. (C oute llefie Andrd. Larousse) (CoUlellerie Andr. Phot. Larousse)

Kitchcn Kitcheo tnives. knives. courgArx COUTEAUX DE DE cursrNE CUISINE - For For tle the various various culinary is essential essential to to have have good good tools, tools, and and in in culinary operations operations it it is particular particular very very good good knives. knives. Each Each has has its its proper proper use. use. In In order order of of size size they they are: are: vegetable vegetable knife knife for for peeling peeling vegetables; vegetables; knife knife with with a a larger larger blade blade for for cutting cutting fish fish fillets; fillets; slicing slicing knife knife with with a a fairly fairly large large blade blade for for slicing slicing raw raw or or cooked cooked meat meat perfectly; perfectly; straight-bladed straight-bladed chopper, chopper, with with which which it it is is possible possible to to break break up up bones bones of ofa a certain certain size, size, and and to to hash hash meat meat in in the the same same way way as as with with a a four-bladed four-bladed chopper; chopper; carving carving knife, knife, which which is is used used for of fat fat pork pork or or bacon bacon and and which which resembles resembles for iutting cutting bards bards of the the so-called so-called 'English' 'English' knife knife used used to to carve carve large largejoints joints of ofbeef beef and but which, which, instead instead of of having having a a rounded rounded point, point, is is and hams, harns, but sharply sharply pointed. pointed. There isalso also the theknife knife for forboning boningmeat. meat. It Itis is used used mostly mostly in in Thereis butchery butcherybut butcan canbe beusod used in in cooking. cooking.

a a blade. blade.

KNIFts. KNIFE. courEAU COUTEAU - A A cutting cutting instrument, instrument, with with a a handle handle and and

KROMESKY KROMESKY
Cisaille Cisaille d volaille\; volaille); the the cutlet cutlet beater; beater; the the butcher's butcher's saw; saw; and and the thescraper scraperfor for the thebutcher's butcher's table. table. good Table of excellent excellent quality, quality, with with good Table knives knives should should be be of cutting cutting blades blades in in pure pure steel. steel. Many Many table table knives knives are are made made they today today in in stainless stainless steel. steel. Their Their principal principal advantage advantage is is that that they in silver made are do not stain. stain. For For serving serving fruit, fruit, knives knives are made in silver do not plate. For fish, special knives are made of silver plate.

plate. For fish, special knives are made of silver plate.

Utensils of various shapes, REST. ponrs-cotrEeuKNIIE KNIFE-REST. PORTE-COUTEAU - Utensils ofvarious shapes, soiling soiling the the tablecloth. tablecloth. prevent placed in in glass glass or or silver, silver, on on which which the the knife knife is is placed to to prevent

of KI\UCKLE. KNUCKLE. souRls SOURIS - Small, Small, fleshy fleshy muscle muscle on on the the leg leg of mutton. mutton. It It is is much much appreciated appreciated by by connoisseurs. connoisseurs. This is not, properly speaking, a KOHLRABI. KOHLRABI. cHou-uw CHOU-RAVE - This is not, properly speaking, a
plump, plump, pithy pithy ball. bail. Some Sorne varieties varieties have have quite quite a a delic1te delicate (q.v.) and for havour. flavour. All AIl the the recipes recipes given given for for turnips turnips (q.v.) and for
saignerl;2. Sorne slccial special knives: knives: l. 1. Boning Booing knife knife (Couteau (Couteau it saigner); 2. Fluted Fluted knife; knife; 3' 3. Some ; 6. Potato peeler; peeler; 4. 4. Cannelling Cannelling knife; knife; 5' 5. Knife Knife for for scraping scraping lernon lernon zest zest; 6. can can opener opener Potato (Coutellerie (Coutellerie Andrt. Andr. Phot. Phot. Larousse) Larousse)

root, but a a swelling swelling of of the the stem stem above above ground ground in in the the form form of of a a root, but

Among the the cutting cutting tools tools which which it is necessary necessary to have have in in a a Among is a a weIl-ordered kitchen, kitchen, are the following: following: a a cleaver, cleaver, which which is well-ordered cut in in fairly large instrument with which a carcase can be cut half; half; a a chopper, chopper, to to crack the hardest bones; bones; a a chopping chopping knife, which which is made made with one, two or four blades; the the whole whole knife, series of of small knives used for chopping, chopping, peeling peeling and paring paring series into cutting potatoes potatoes, and for cutting vegetables, especially especially potatoes, potatoes into ribbons; knives for opening oysters; tin-openers. for knives with a fluting device or one for Little tools, such as knives little as should !ittle be mentioned, as zest, should be scraping lemon zest, for cutting cutting knives for special knives ravioli; special instruments cutting ravioli; for cutting instiuments for

celeriac celeriac (q.v.) (q.v.) may may be be used used for for this this vegetable' vegetable. A LA PAYSANNE - Cut Kohlrabi KohJrabi il la la paysanne. paysanne. cuou-RAvs CHOU-RAVE LA PAYSANNE Cut some chopped in in lard Brown slices. into the kohlrabi the kohlrabi into slices. Brown in lard in which wruch sorne chopped and of pork fresh breast some fresh softened. Add onion pork and onion has has been been softened. Add sorne breast of equal in equal and stock stock in wine and white wine with white salt. Moisten season season with with salt. Moisten with oven. proportions. Cook in proportions. Cook in the the oyen.

in made in milk, originally originally made mares' milk, KOUMISS KOUMISS - Fermented Fennented mares' ferment The fennent kifir. The to kfir. similar ta rather similar Tartary, rather and Tartary, Turkestan and Turkestan (brewer's (8 oz.) g. (8 barm (brewer's oz.) bann 250 g. prepared by working 250 by working is prepared used is USed and a honey little a (4 with flour g. cup) oz.,l yeast) 125 and yeast) and 125 g. (4 oz., 1 cup) flour with a little honey and a (5|pints, add 3 3litres Next day day add overnight. Next glass ofmilk. Liave overnight. of milk. Leave glass litres (Si pints, grelt of a contains It leaven. pints) to this milk to this leaven. It contains a great deal 4 pints) milk 94 of 6t per cent alcohol. l'65 to to 323 3'23 per gas and from 165 and from acid gas cirbonic acid carbonic cent alcohol. CROMESQUI. See CROMESQUI. KROMESKY - See KROMESKY

(poultry shears shears jointing chicken chic[en (poultry for jointing grapefruit; scissors scissors for -

(IVrcolas) mould(Nicolas) Kugelhopf withmould Kugelhopfwith

531 531

KUGELHOPF

KUGELHOPF

KUGELHOPF u KOUGLOFF (Nsation pastry). KoucELKUGELHOPF or KOUGLOFF (Alsation pastry). KOUGELHoF, KoucI,or It is said that eueen Marie Antoinette was HOP, KOUGLOF - -It is said that Queen Marie Antoinette was yery fond of this pastry, which contributed a great deal to the very fond of this pastry, which contributed a great deal to the fashion in her day for sweets made with risen dough. These fashion in her day for sweets made with risen dough. These were no longer made with leaven, as they had been until the were no longer made with leaven, as they had been until the *jqqh of lheeighteenth sighteenth century, but with brewer's yeast, middle of the century, but with brewer's yeast, which had been in use for a very long time in Austrii and which had been in use for a very long time in Austria and Poland. Poland. Some authorities, however, believe that it was Carme Sorne authorities, however, believe that it was Carme who popularised this pastry in paris, when he established who popularised this pastry in Paris, when he established hiTrc{ as a pastry-cook. It is said that he was given the himself as a pastry-cook. It is said that he was given the reclpe by M. Eugine, at that time master chef io prince recipe by M. Eugne, at that time mas ter chef to Prince Schwartzenberg, the Austrian ambassador. Schwartzenberg, the Austrian ambassador. 500 g. (18 oz,.,4 cups) sieved flour, 200 g. ._Ingredienls. 500 g. (18 OZ., # cups) sieved flour, 200 g. (7Ingredients. oz.,-scant cup) butter, 90 g. (3* oz., ! cup) fine sugar,? (7 OZ., scant cup) butter, 90 g. (3~ OZ., ~ cup) fine sugar, 4 g. (l oz.) yeast - or 15 g. G or.) in summer, 50 g. 2l 9-g9., 25 g. (1 oz.) yeast - or 15 g. (t oz.) in summer, 50 g. eggs, (2 oz., cup) currants, l| teaspoons salt. (2 OZ., i cup) currants, It teaspoons salt. Make the dough according to the instructions for Brioche Make the dough according to the instructions for Brioche dough (see DOUGH), but make it a little less firm. dough (see DOUGH), but make it a little less firm. Butter a large kugelhopf mould and line the sides with mould and line the sides with Butter a large kugelhopf shredded almonds. Half-fill with dough. Leave the dough in shredded almonds. Half-fil! with dough. Leave the dough in a wann place, until it has risen above the sides of the mould. a warm place, until it has risen above the sides of the mould. Bake in a hot oven N to 45 minutes. Bake in a hot oyen 40 to 45 minutes. KULICH (Russian cookery). rour,rcn - Cake of risen dough, KULICH (Russian cookery). KOULICH - Cake of risen dough, made in Russia for the ceremonial Easter dinner. After it f,as made in Russia for the ceremonial Easter dinner. After it has been baked and cooled, it is decorated with a cluster of been baked and cooled, it is decorated with a cluster of artificial roses. artificial roses. KUMMEL - Russian liqueur extracted from caraway seeds KUMMEL - Russian liqueur extracted from caraway seeds (not, as wrongly supposed, from cumin seeds, a mis(not, as wrongly supposed, from cumin seeds, a misapprehension that explains its name because cumin is apprehension that explains its na me because cumin is Kiimmel in German). Kmmel in German). Ole type of Russian kummel has a deposit of crystals at One type of Russian kummel has a deposit of crystals at the bottom of the bottle. This is sugar with which the liqueur the bottom of the bottle. This is sugar with which the liqueur is supersaturated under heat and which resumes its crystaltne is supersaturated under heat and which resumes its crystalline state four or or five five days days later. later. The The same same state upon upon cooling cooling four phenomenon also occasionally occurs in jam-making. phenomenon also occasionally occurs in jam-making.

Kulich, Kulich, Russian Easter Russian Easler cake cake

Danzig liqueur liqueur is is aa well-known, well-known, potent potent type type of Danzig of kummel kummel particularly large with aa particularly large amount amount of of crystallisation. crystallisation. It with It is is an an essential ingredient ingredient of of Rothschild Rothschild souffl. soufr6. essential Kummel or or Leidsche l*idsche kaas kaas is is also also the the name name of Kummel of aa Dutch Dutch (See CHEESE.) cheese. (See CHEESE.) cheese.

IiyMgUAT -- Very Very small small orange orange shaped shaped like KUMQUAT like an an elongated elongated olive. This Thisfruit, which is is nowadays nowadayssold sold in olive. fruit, which in certain certain food food stores, stores. is eaten eaten raw, raw, like like oranges oranges and and tangerines. tangerines. is It can can be be used used in in salads salads or or marmalade. marmalade. It
KVASS. KWASS KwAss -- Slightly gaseous, mildly Slightly gaseous, KVASS. mildly alcoholic alcoholic drink drink similar to to beer. beer. It It is is made made in in Russia Russia by similar by adding adding fermented fermented yeast toa of rye flour flourmixedwitha yeast to a must of mixed wi th a little ted barley. little sprou sprouted barley. It is is sometimes juniper berries. sometimes flavoured with mint leaves It leaves or or juniper berriei.

s32 532

BOUll..LE - See CHEESE. CHEESE. LA BOUILLE

wrasse.ltis - European sea fish, a]so It is also called wrasse. LABRUS. LABRE LABREremarkable for its ils brilliant colouring, but is is tasteless, and remarkable as an an inused as limp in texture. It is is served fried, fried, or may be be used bouillabaisse (q.v.). gredient of of bouillabaisse
LACHE in the delicate to eat, cooked in LACIIE - Small sea-fish, very delicate same way as the smelt (q.v.). It is rather scarce. LACRIMA-CHRISTI. LAcRyMA-crnnn LACRIMA-CHRISTI. LACRYMA-CHRISTI - Wine made from and grapes grown on the slopes of Vesuvius. It is rather sweet and slopes ofVesuvius.
delicate.

for touches white, except for winter win ter it turns almost completely white, partridge called snow snow partridge It is is sometimes sometimes called black on on the the taiI. tail. It of black plumage. because of its winter plumage. because in spite for the table, spite of of its its table, in is much sought after for This bird is fact that it it feeds feeds on on is due to to the fact flavour which is slightly bitter ftavour and other other mountain berries. myrtle berries and birch-shoots, myrtle (q.v.), which which belong grouse (q.v.), same belong to for grouse to the the same All recipes recipes for AIl lagopus, are are suitable for this this bird. bird. family as as the lagopus, suitable for family
in the the middle of of who was was born in LaguipiEre, who LAGUIPIRE LAGUIPDRE - Laguipire, of the was one one of the great and died died in in 1812, was the eighteenth eighteenth century and him as as 'the Carme described him cookery. Carme masters masters of of French French cookery. all in aIl Carme's tutor tutor in of our our tmes'. times'. Carme's most chef of most remarkable chef accomwho accomfact, Laguipire, Laguipidre, who waq in in fact, branches of cookery cookery was, branches of Russia. to Russia. followed him him to and later later followed panied Murat Naples and Murat to to Naples (later Vilnius) l8l2 during the the 1812 Vilnius) during at Vilno Vilno (Iater He froze froze to death at to death from Moscow. retreat from Moscow. parisim, le Cuisinier Cuisinier parisien, his book, book, le At of his At the the beginning beginning of great master: master: about his his great following words words about Carme wrote the the following Carme wrote pupil, a pupil, voice of of a Listen to the voice to the 'Awake, 'Awake, shade of Laguipiire! Listen shade of in Paris, surrounddied in Paris, surroundhave died a devotee ! You should have friend, a a devotee! a friend, of memory of in al! all of of us the memory ed reverence evoked evoked in us by by the ed by the reverence by the pious homage of a a your great accept the homage of great work . . . Laguipire, Laguipidre, accept the pious your work ... your name. name. 1 I have have works with with your faithful I couple my works faithful disciple. 1 couple my and, today, 1 I invoke invoke you with pride in all my my books, and, cited in aIl cited you you my yoru memory my finest work.' your dedicate to to you memory and dedicate practitioner of art of of a practitioner of the learned a the art It regrettable that so learned It is is regrettable that so left any any written written not have have left cooking should not cooking as as Laguipire Laguipidre should posterity. for posterity. record record of of his his teachings teachings for
regiven in Franche-Comte to to aa reLAITIAT in the Name given the Franche-Comt LAITIAT -- Name freshing wild fruit fruit in in whey. whey. made by freshing drink drink made by steeping steeping wild year old. a year old. animal before it is is a LAMB. ovine animal before it lcNrlu -- Young Young ovine LAMB. AGNEAU already year, wh en the After has already animal has the animal when age of of one one year, After the the age (the incisor of herbivorous herbivorous grown grown ils incisor teeth teeth of nippers (the its first first two two tlippers pennanent animaIs), lied a other permanent a yearling. When When the the other called animals), it it is is ca teeth ram or or a a ewe. ewe. a ram becomes a the animal becomes teeth appear, the forms: ln known in in two lamb is is known two forms: In the culinary culinary sense sense lamb yet (or baby) not yet 1. lamb, This This animal animal has has not l. The The milk-fed milk-fed (or baby) lamb. graze.The yet been The best been best out to tograze. and has been put out not yet weaned and has not been weaned French Pauillac lamb. is Pauillac lamb of French lamb of this this type type is young 2. lamb. This This is is aa young meadow lamb. lamb or or salt salt meadow 2. Ordinary lamb yet reached ts full sheep full growth. not yet reached iits sheep which has not Good quality lamb recognised by the width of its lamb can can be be recogllls{:d Good quality loins, flesh, and and by by the the with ftesh, well covered with loins, which be weil which should should be whiteness and abundant, abundant, firm and which should be firm should be its fat, fat, which whiteness of of its freshness can can be be judged kidneys. Its Its freshness round the the kidneys. especially round from and the colour of of the the kidneys, legs and the colour its legs of its from the the firmness of

LACT ARY. LACTAIREIt contains LACTARY. LAcTAIRE- Fungus of the agaric type. It a lactaries are are poisonSome lactaries a white or coloured milky juice. Sorne ous, others are edible, flavour in spite spite edible, though of rather poor ftavour of the the fact is called called delicious. fact that one type is LACTIC ACID. LACTIQUE - An acid present in sour milk and presentin and sourmilk rlcrpue-An LACTICACID. certain and is an antiseptic antiseptic and is It is is an fermented substances. i:ertain fermented substances. It 1-"'" c, . .... ",,'J effective particularly in preventing putrefaction. A primitive effective in it in in sour preserving meat was sour milk. was to immerse it method of nrp~prvino LACTIC These are are microbes microbes LACTIC FERMENTS. FERMENTS. LACTIQUES recrreurs -- These which are very widespread and of many kinds. kinds. When When they they which are widespread and (milk sugar) molecules are introduced molecules lactose (milk milk the introduced into milk the lactose are produced. It It is is these microbes microbes are split lactic acid acid is is produced. split and and lactic which breed on and in in dairies. dairies. of cows cows in in cowsheds cowsheds and on the the teats teats of They agents in milk and and are are one one of of the in They cause cause the curdling curdling of of miLk the agents the production of of cheese. cheese. Sour Sour milk milk is is produced either either by introducing indigenous ferments ferments into milk or or by using from into the using ferments imported from the milk the These latter, latter, being being and the Caucasus. the Balkans, Egypt Egypt and Caucasus. These adapted quantity produce a a larger larger quantity adapted to to higher higher temperatures, temperatures, produce of (See CHEESE, KOUMISS, KEFIR, KOUMISS, CHEESE, KFIR, of lactic lactic acid. acid. (See YOGURT.) YOGURT.) LACTOMETER. graduated densimeter A """.rtll'J,tprt llcroldrnr -- A LACTOMETER. LACTOMTRE which milk, from which the cream density of of milk, which shows shows the the density content can be content can calculated. be calculated. LADIES' FINGERS. GOMBO, - See LADIES'FINGERS. coMBo, GOMBAUT coMBAUrSee OKRA. OKRA.
pocHE -- Large LADLE. long and a a long LAI)LE. POCHE Large spoon spoon with with cup cup bowl bowl and handle, liquid dishes. handle, used mainly for for serving dishes. used mainly serving liquid

LADY yellow apple, tinged LADY APPLE Tiny variety of pale yellow APPLE -- Tiny with and crunchy; the with carmine. The white white flesh is is firm and carmine. The ftavour flavour sweetish, with a a touch sweetish, but but with touch of of bitterness. bitterness. LAGOPUS. The lagopus or Pyreneut partridge LAGOPUS. LAGOPDE rlcoptps -- The has plumage with with thin thin black streaks in summer. In has tawny tawny plumage

533 533

LAMB

!---- -, .
1

Ba_ro_n-::--:-:-::--_1!-_ _

~_ _ _ _ ~

times part of of the loins, is left with the legs, then such a a joint joint times a part is called ca lied a baron. Half Half of of this this joint joint is known known as a quarter. quarter. The best way to prepare these these various joints joints is to roast or

L __ _

pot-roast them. The loins can also be cooked whole (on the spit or in the oven) oven) but they are usually divided divided into cutlets,
which be grilled grilled or or fried and served plain plain or with with various various which can be garnishes. lamb offal (variety garnishes. All Alllamb (variety meat) meat) is delicate delicate in flavour. fiavour.

Lamb: Lamb: division division of of the the live live animal animal

which which should be be pale pale pink. pink. Baby or milk-fed milk-fed lamb is is genergenerally ally sold whole, whole, with its its pluck. It It is also sometimes sometimes sold in
quarters. quarters. Lamb Lamb should be be eaten eaten at at its freshest. freshest. This This meat meat does not keep keep for for very very long. Ordinary Ordinary lamb lamb and and milk-fed milk-fed lamb lamb are are sold sold in in butchers' butchers' shops shops and, and, in in France, France, in in poultry poultry shops. Ordinary lamb lamb is is divided divided into into cuts cuts like like mutton. mutton. The best best parts parts are are the legs, legs, the the saddle saddle and and the the loins. The neck neck and breast breast are principally principally used used for for making making blanquettes, blanquettes, and saut6 saut dishes. dishes. fricasses, ragohts ragots and fricassies, The legs are are generally generally used used for roasting. roasting. They They are served as or with with a garnish of of vegetables vegetables - baked, baked, as they they are, are, plain plain or dressed dressed with with butter, butter, or or braised. braised. The The shoulders, shoulders, whether whether boned boned or or not, not, are are usually usually prepared in in the the same same manner manner as as legs. legs. Two Two legs legs are are called ca lied a a double. double. When When the the saddle, saddle, and and somesome-

Lamb plays an important important part both in classical classical French French cookery cookery and in home home cookery. cookery. Baby or milk-fed lamb is divided divided into the the same cuts as as ordinary lamb: lamb: baron, baron, loin, double, shoulder, leg, leg, quarter, quarter, saddle. saddle. All Ali these the se cuts can be served with garnishes garnishes recommended mind mended for ordinary lamb and for mutton. Bearing in mind the the particularly particularly delicate flavour fiavour of this this meat, however, it is advisable advisable to to serve serve it grilled, pot-roasted pot-roasted or or as as a roast, with its - as the only accompaniits own juice juice - thickened or clear ment. ment. Other Other parts of of milk-fed lamb are used for for blanEtettes, blanquettes, ragofrts saut dishes. ragots and saut6
_ BABY BABY oT or MILK-FED LAMB. AGNEAU AGNEAU DE LAIT LAITLeg Leg of baby or milk-fed milk-fed lamb in pastry il la p6rigourdine. prigourdine.

crcor GIGOT D'AGNEAU uN EN pArE PTE A r.,c, LA pfnrcouRDrNE PRIGOURDINE - A method method of preparation preparation for leg of of baby or milk-fed milk-fed lamb. lamb. Trim Trim the the leg and remove most most of of the the bone. Cook Cook in a hot oven oven for for l0 10 minutes minutes to brown brown it. it. Allow to to cool. cool. Cover Cover completely completely with sausage meat meat mixed mixed with one-third of its its weight weight of uncooked uncooked goose goose liver rubbed rubbed through through a a sieve, sieve, 2 2 diced diced truffies, truffies, I 1 egg. egg. Wrap Wrap the the leg leg in a sheet sheet of of salt salt pork pork or or a piece piece of of pig's pig's caul, previously previously soaked soaked in cold water. water. Put Put the the leg on an oval-shaped sheet of rolled-out pastry. Cover Cover with with another sheet sheet of of pastry. pastry. Seal Seal the the edges edges by by crimping crimping them. Make Make a hole hole in in the the middle middle to to allow allow steam to to escape. escape. Brush the the top top of of the the pastry pastry with with beaten beaten egg, egg, and and put put

Baron Baron
Saddle Sadd le

CUTS CUTS OF OF LAMB LAMB l. 1. Shoulder:2. Shoulder; 2. Rolled Rolled shoulder shoulder l*g Leg l. 1. Loin; Loin; 2. 2. Bonedchops Boned chops

534

LAMB
it on on a a baking baking sheet. Cook Cook in a moderate oven oyen for 1 ljt hours. it When removed removed from the oven, oyen, pour through the hole in When the top top l+ It dl. (* (t pint, J t cup) Pdrigaeux Prigueux sauce (see SAUCE). the Serve on on a a napkin-covered napkin-covered dish. dish. Serve This kind kind of of hot pie can also be made with a boned boned and rolled leg of of ordinary lamb. rolled of baby baby or or milk-fed milk-fed lamb lamb ir la la Clamart. Clamart. CARR Loin of c.mnf D'AGNEAU Loin u LA crruvrenr CLAMART - Trim of baby or milk-fed lamb and A - Trim the loin of pot-roast it in butter. When When cooked, add to the add to the casserole g. (12 (12 o2.,2| oz., 2t cups) fresh fresh garden peas prepared prepared d la garden peas 350 g. under a franaise (see (see PEAS). Leave to simmer sim mer for 5 a 5 minutes under frangaise lido lid. Loin of of baby baby ormilk-fed or milk-fed lamb La Varenne. CARR cennE D'AGNEAU lambLa Loin LA vARENNE VARENNE - Bone a a trimmed trimmed loin baby or or milk-fed milk-fed loin of baby LA Beat it to flatten slightly, season lamb. Beat season with salt and pepper, dip in in beaten beaten egg egg and with breadcrumbs, pressing cover with dip and coyer down well weil to to make make the the crumbs adhere. loin in in adhere. Cook Cook the the loin butter until until both sides our. clarified butter a golden col colour. sides are a clarified Arrange on on a a salpicon foundation composed composed of a a dish a foundation dish on on a Arrange of cultivated cultivated Mushrooms Mushrooms cooked in cream (see MUSH(q.v.) of crearn (see MUSHROOMS). Sprinkle Sprinkle with (see BUTTER, with Noisette Norette butter butter (see ROOMS). Compound butters). Compound butters). of baby baby or Loin of D'AcNEAU cmnr D'AGNEAU maharaiah. CARR lamb maharajab. or milk-fed lamb Loin MAHARADJAH - Trim a loin of milk-fed lamb and pot-roast in in milk-fed a loin of Trim MAHARADJAH butter. butter. When half-cooked, ~ cup) (3 oz., onion g. (3 cup) chopped chopped onion add 75 75 g. oz.,* When half-cooked, add lightly butter. Season I teaspoon curry teaspoon curry salt, 1 Season with salt, lightly cooked in butter. cooked in powder and lid on. with a a lid on. powder and a a clove of garlic. Cook Cook with clove of Serve shed with (see PILAF) PILAF) and and small garnished Rice pilaf (see small with Rice Serve garni tomatoes juices with pan juices lj dl. dl. with It in oiL oil. Dilute Dilute the cooked in the pan tomatoes cooked (t pint, 1 cup) white wine, add 2 dl. (t pint, seant cup) fresh $ pint, 3 cnp) white wine, add 2 dl. $ pint, scant cup) fresh cream, pour over curry. simmer, and and pour over the the curry. cream, simmer, Loin baby or clnnf D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU milk-fed lamb lamb Monselet. Monselet. CARR Loin of of baby or milk-fed MONSELET Trim lamb and and cook cook milk-fed lamb a loin loin of of baby or milk-fed MoNSELET Trim a baby or under with freshly freshly grill. When nearly cooked, cooked, sprinkle sprinkle with a grill. When nearly under a grated grill to golden. put back grated breadcrumbs turn golden. and put under grill to turn back under breadcrumbs and Put (see POTATOES). potatoes (see POTATOES)' Put on Anna potatoes of Anna on a a foundation foundation of Garnish in butter. butter. cooked in quarters of with quarters artichokes cooked of small small artichokes Garnish with Surround (see sauce (see Demi-glace sauce buttered Demi-glace Surround with with a a border border of of buttered SAUCE). sAUCE). Loin perigourdine. CARR clnn6 la prigourdine. i la lamb milk-fed lamb Inin of of baby baby or or milk-fed D'AGNEAU - Trim pEnIcouRDINEand bone a Trim and bone a i LA ll PRIGOURDINE D'AGNEAU EN ru CRPINE cnfpwn loin and cook cook in in butter until three-quarters three-quarters butter until milk-fed lamb lamb and loin of of milk-fed done. cool. done. Allow Allow to to cool. Coat pork forcemeat forcemeat with finely minced pork finely minced on both sides with both sides Coat on mixed piece of pig's caul of pig's caul in a a thin Wrap in thin piece with diced diced trufHes. truffes. Wrap mixed with previously covers the fat covers the previously soaked water. Make Make sure sure the the fat in cold cold water. soaked in meat with cover with melted butter, with melted butter, coyer meat completely. Spread with completely. Spread white grill or and grill or with more more butter butter and sprinkle with white breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, sprinkle broil garnish with with small small loin on a dish, dish, garnish low heat. Put the on a on low heat. Put the loin broil on potato Pirigueux sauce sauce with Prigueux potato balls in butter. Serve with cooked in butter. Serve balls cooked (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Fried loin of baby or milk-fed lamb la viennoise. CARR Fried loin of baby or milk-fed lamb i la viennoise. clnnf D'AGNEAU FRIT preparation Method of of preparation LA VIENNOISE vIENNoIsr -- Method D'AcNEAU rnrr .l LA suitable (or baby) lamb. milk-fed (or baby) lamb. for loin loin of of milk-fed only for suitable only Divide I hour lemon in oil, for 1 hour in oil, lemon loin in in half. half. Marinate Marinate for Divide the the loin juice, juice, salt, pieces of parsley. Drain pepper and Drain the of the pieces and chopped chopped parsley. salt, pepper lamb in egg and breaddip in egg and breadin flour flour and and dip lamb and and dry; dredge in dry; dredge crwnbs. fat. deep-fry in sizzling fat. or deep-fry in sizzling Fry in in clarified clarified butter butter or crumbs. Fry Garnish quarters of parsley and lemon. of lemon. and quarters Garnish with with fried fried parsley Quarter of lamb. QUARTIER D'AGNEAU - Joint comprising Quarter of lamb. eUARTIER D'AGNEAU - Joint comprising the from baby or baby or It is is mainly mainly taken taken from leg and and half saddle. It half the the saddle. the leg milk-fed (Pauillac) lamb, and is usually roasted. Ali (Pauillac) All the the roasted. lamb, and is usually milk-fed le of garnishes ordinary or sadd saddle of ordinary garnishes recommended for baron recommended for baron or lamb applicable to quarter of lamb. lamb are are applicable to quarter of lamb. Roast baby or milk-fed lamb. AGNEAU DE LAIT RTI - This Roast baby or milk-fed lamb. acNrAU DE LlIr nOu - This method of preparation is suitablefor smalliambs. Dress the lambs. Dress the preparation for is suitable small method of and shoulders. Truss the lamb to give skin over the knuckles skin over the knuckles and shoulders. Truss the lamb to give 535 535
and pepper, salt and a spit, season with salt spit, season it a regular shape. Put on a a brisk roast before brisk fire, fire, and roast before a with melted melted butter butter and brush with brush (1 lb.). per 500 g. (1 lb.). allowing 20 to 25 25 minutes per 500 g. allowing garnish with with long dish, dish, and and garnish a long on a Take it off the the spit, spit, put on pan lemon. Dilute Dilute the and quarters of of lemon. the pan of watercress and bunches ofwatercress juices lamb. and serve the lamb. a little stock stock and serve with the juices with a garand garmint sauce sauce and generally served with mint served with Roast lamb lamb is is generally in roasted in can also also be be roasted Lamb can nished with various vegetables. Lamb the the oyen. oven. n'.a,cNsnu 6p.luI,E D'AGNEAU GriUedsboulder or milk-fedlamb. milk-fed lamb. PAULE Grilled shoulder of baby or a few few slits on both both slits on DE LAIT Trim the shoulder, shoulder, make a cRrI,rrs- Trim LArr GRILLEwith melted melted butter. sides, butter. and brush brush with season, and sides, season, 25 minutes. minutes. flame for for 20 20 to to 25 Grill a moderate moderate flame Grill under under a melted butter, butter, with melted Sprinkle brush with white breadcrumbs, brush Sprinkle with white and grill or colour. to colour. or broiler broiler to and put under the grill garnished with Arrange on with watercress. watercress. dish. Serve Serve garnished on a a long dish. AGNEAU DE DE LAIT LAIr Baby rice. AGNEAU with rice. lamb stuffed strffed witb milk-fd lamb Baby or or milk-fed (see pilaf (see FARCI Rice pilaf with half-cooked lamb with half-cooked Rice AU RIZ nrz -- Stuffthe Stuffthe lamb FARcr AU liver, heart, heart, PILAF), animal's liver, added the the animal's which have have been been added PILAF), to to which sweetbreads fried into small slices, briskly briskly fried small slices, cut into and kidneys, kidneys, eut sweetbreads and in and seasoned. seasoned. in butter, butter, and Sew lamb. Coyer Cover the the back back the lamb. and truss truss the opening, and Sew up up the the opening, place. Put with Put on on a a spit spit in place. tied in rashers of of bacon bacon tied with strips or rashers strips or per and 2V25 minutes minutes per allowing 20-25 lively fire, roast before a lively fire, allowing before a and roast 500 (l lb.). g. (1 lb.). 500 g. Remove and eut cut away away off the the bacon bacon and spit" take take off Remove from from the the spit, trussing garnish with watercress with watercress dish, garnish a long long dish, Put on on a string. Put trussing string. juices, diluted and pan juices, with diluted with quarters oflemon. with the Serve with the pan of lemon. Serve and quarters a stock. few tablespoons of stock. tablespoons of a few

RoaSl Roast baron baronoflamb oflamb

LAMB. AGNEAU -_ LAMB. AGNEAU Baron comprising the the The eut cutcomprising BARoND'AGNEAU D'AcNEAU - - The lamb. BARON Baronof of lamb. le. This two joint is potroasted on spitor orpotisroasted onaaspit This joint and the legs and the sadd saddle. two legs roasted, juice. roast in inits itsown own juice. asaaroast may also also be servedas roasted, but beserved but may It garnish of vegetables, either either of vegetables, by aa garnish It is is accompanied accompanied by arranged joint or withits its andwith served separately, separately, and orserved around the thejoint arranged around own juice, left nature dependingon onthe thenature leftas asit it is isor orthickened, thickened, depending own juice, of garnish. of the thegarnish. For Average METHODS, Average Forcooking seeCULINARY CULINARY METHODS, cooking time time see cooking roasts. times for roasts. cookingtimesfor for baron of lamb. Green vegetables Garnishes suitable Garnishes suitable for baron of lamb. Green vegetables am; braised ver soise; ; dressed Anversoise vegetables ;An cream; braised vegetables; with butter orcre dressed with butter or bouquetire; jarduchesse ;jarDauphine ; duchesse; Clamart ; Dauphine; bretonne ; Clamart; bouquetiire ; bretonne; dinire; provengale;renaissance; parisienne; provenale; rmaissance; macddoine; parisienne; diniire; macdoine; Richelieu. (seePOpotatoes(see PO(See GARNISHES.) Anna potatoes GARNISHES.) Anna Richelieu.(See TATOES) ways potatoesprepared preparedin variousother otherways invarious TATOES)and andpotatoes would wouldalso alsobe besuitable. suitable.

LAMB LAMB
Blanquette of lamb. BLANQUETTE BLANeUETTE D'AGNEAU D'AcNEAU -- This of lamb. This method method BllUlQuette preparation is is often of preparation often describcd described as as a a fricasse. of fricassie. pieces of Soak the the pieces of lamb lamb and and dry dry weil. well. Fry Fry in in butter withbutter withSoak out allowing allowing to to brown. brown. Season. Season. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons out (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) flour, flour, blend blend over over heat, heat, add add white white stock stock and and (3 garnish as (see below). as for for Blanquette Blanquette of of lamb lantb d l'ancienne I'ancienne (see below). gamish Bring to to the with the the boil, boil, simmer simmer with lid on from 45 the lid on from 45 minutes minutes to to Bring I hour. hour. 1 pan. Add Transfer to another pan. to another Add small small onions, onions, mushrooms, mushrooms, Transfer yolks as and the sauce. Blend Blend in the sauce. in egg egg yolks as described described below. below. and Blanquette of lamb of lamb I l'ancienne. I'ancienne. BLANQUETTE BLANeUETTE D'AGNEAU D'AcNs^au A Blanquette L'ANcIENNE -- This This is is made made of of shoulder shoulder and and ribs ribs of of ordinary ordinarv L'ANCIENNE (4 lb.) meadow lamb. lamb. Cut or salt salt meadow 1* kg. Cut l~ kg. (4 lb.) lamb lamb into into unifonn uniform or pieces. Soak I hour Soak for for 1 hour in in water, water, blanch, dip dip in in cold cold water water to to pieces. cool, and and dry. dry. cool, Put into into a pan. Add a shallow shallow pan. (or a Add enough enough white stock stock (or light a light Put pot-au-fa,t broth just cover broth see SOUPS SOUpS AND AND-BROTHS) coier pot-au-feu BROTHS) to just - sec the meaL meat. Add Add 2 2 medium-sized medium-sized carrots quarters, 2 carrots eut in quarters, cut in the medium-sized onions onions one studded studded with with a a clove clove and a a medium-sized - one - and garni consisting bouquet garni consisting of parsley, a of a a sprig sprig of of parsley, a stalk stalk of of bouquet 2 leeks, leeks, a celery, 2 a sprig of thyme thyme and sprig of and a a bay leaf. Season bay leaf. Season with celery, salt. salt. Bring to remove scwn to the the boil, boil, remove scum and and simmer with the lid simmer with lid .on on Bring pan 45 the pan 45 minutes minutes to I hour. to 1 hour. the Take out pieces of out the the pieces lamb and of lamb and remove remove small pieces of small pieces of Take and skin bone and which hav skin which havi become become detached detached during during cooking. bone Put the lamb into into a pan with the lamb a shallow shallow pan 12 small with 12 small onions Put previously cooked (q.v.), and cooked in in a a cou court-banillon and the the same previously ri-bouillon (q.v.), number of cooked cooked mushrooms. nwnber of mushrooms. (q.v.) of Make a roux (q.v.) g.(2L a roux of 60 60 g. oz., 5 tablespoons) Make (2t oz., tablespoons) butter (3 oz., g. (3 and75 oz.,t cup) flour. flour. Add Add the strained stock in which and 75 g. the strained "up) the cooked, simmer for 15 minutes, skim, strain, lamb was was cooked, for 15 the lamb and pour over the and pour over the lamb. lamb. gently for Simmer gently for 20 20 to minutes. Blend 4 egg yolks Simmer to 25 25 minutes. Blend in 4 yolks (6 tablespoons, mixed with 1 I dl. dl. (6 scant f cup) cream, cream, a a dash tablespoons, seant t cup) mixed with of and a a pinch grated nutmeg. of lemon lemon juice juice and pinch of of grated nutmeg. Keep Keep the blanquette do not blanquelle hot hot but but do not allow allow to to boil. boil. Alternatively, cook the and put the lamb lamb in in stock, stock, and put it it into into a AJternatively, cook shallow pan with onions onions cooked cooked in the and the shallow pan with in court-bouillon, and mushrooms. mushrooms. Keep Keep hot hot with with the the pan pan covered. covered. Prepare Prepare (see SAUCE) Velouti Velout sauce sauce (see SA UCE) with with the stock stock in which the lamb was cream and lemon juice, was cooked. cooked. Blend Blend with with egg egg yolks, yolks, cream juice, to cloth, and to the the desired desired consistency, consislency, strain strain through through a a tammy tammycloth, pour pour over over the the lamb. lamb. Lamb's Lamb's braimbrains - See See OFFAL OFF AL or VARIETY VARIETY MEATS. MEATS. Lamb's Lamb's breast breast. porrRrNE POITRINE D'AGNEAUD'AGNEAU - This is is generally gencrally used for making ragofits ragolts or or saut6 saut dishes. dishes. It 1t can can also be be made made into for making ipigrarnmes pigrammes (q.v.) (q.v.) and and is is used used instead of of beef bf to to prepare prepare country country soups soups (see (sec SOUPS SOUPS AND AND BROTHS, BROTHS, Mutton Mu/ton broth). Lamb's Lamb's breast breast i il I'englaise. l'anglaise. porrRrNE pOI'mrr'iE D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU A r'aucL'ANGLAIsE LAISE - Cook Cook the the breast breast as as in in the the recipe recipe for for Lamb's Lamb's breast breast d ci la la diable diable (see (sec below) below) and and leave leave to to get get cold under undcr a press. press. Cut into into rectangular rectangular pieces, pieces, dip dip in in beaten beaten egg egg and breadcrumbs breadcmmbs and and fry fry in in clarified clarified butter. butter. Arrange Arrange on a long long dish, dot dot with with dabs dabs of of half-melted half-melted Maitre Ma/re d'h6tel d'h/el butter buller (see (sec BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). bul/ers). Lamb's Lamb's breast breast fried frjed in in batter. botter. porrRrNE POITRINE D'AcNEl,u D'AGNEAU EN EN FRrror FRITOT - Braise, Braise, bone, bone, cool cool under under a a press press and cut eut the the breast breast of of lamb lamb into into small, small, square square pieces. pieces. Steep for for I 1 hour hour in in oil, lemon lemon juice, juice, chopped chopped parsley, parsJey, salt salt and and pepper. pepper. Dip Dip the the pieces pieces in in light light batter batter and and deep-fry. deep-fry. Drain, Drain, dry, dry, season season with with finely finely ground ground salt. salt. Arrange Arrange on on a a napkin napkin in in a a pyramid, pyramid, garnish garnish with with fried fried parsley, parsley, and and serve with with tomato tomato sauce. sauce. Lamb's Lamb's breast breast in in breadcrumbs breadcrumbs wifr with various variollS garnfuhes. garnishes. porrRrNE D'AGNEAU pAwEe- Cook pieces of breast, dipped in POITRINE D'AGNEAU PANE - Cook pieces of breast, dipped in egg and breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, in in clarified clarified butter butter as as described described in in the the egg and recipe Lamb's breast breast d I'anglaise. l'anglaise. recipe for for Larnb's

Arrange in in a a crown crown on on a a dish. dish. Fill Fill the middle of Arrange the middle of the dish the dish garnish indicated. with the the garnish indicated. Surround Surround with with a a border with border of of thickened veal veal stock. stock. thickened Garnishes sui/able suitable for breast in breadcrumbs. Green Green in breadcrumbs. Garnishes for breas/ vegetables blended purees of blended with with butter butter or or cream; cream; pures various vegetables of various vegetables; spinach, pur6e; rice spinach, leaf leaf or pilaf or or pure; rice pilaf risotto; vegetables; or risotto; pasta products products with various pasta with butter butter or or d d /'ilalienne, I'italienne, new new various potatoes in glazed, or in butter; carrots, carrots, glazed, d la la Vichy. Vichy. or ci potatoes Lamb's breast breast il i la la diable. diable. POITRINE ForrRrNE D'AGNEAU o'^l,cNe.au A LA Lamb's LA, DIABLE -- Braise Braise the the breast cook it breast or or cook it in in a little white a !ittle white stock. stock. DIABLE Drain, and and remove remove ail all the rib bones. Leave the rib Leave to cool under under a to cool a Drain, press. Cut into rectangular pieces, pieces, spread Cut into spread these press. these with with musmuspinch of pepper. Dip and a a pinch of cayenne cayenne pepper. Dip in in melted butter and and tard and Sprinkle with butter grill. butter and and cook cook on on a a low grill. breadcrumbs. Sprinkle in a a circle circle on dish, and garnish garnish with on a a dish, with watercress. Arrange in (see SAUCE). Serve with Diable sauce (see SAUCE). Serve porrRrNE D'AGNEAU Epigrammes of lamb's breast. of lamb's breast. POITRINE D'AcNrau EN EN pigrammes fprcn.lums -- Braise a lamb's breast or a lamb's or poach it in in very little little PIGRAMMES white stock. stock. Drain, bone, bone, and and cool cool under a a press. white into heart-shaped pieces of Cut into heart-shaped pieces of uniforrn uniform size. size. Dip Dip in in egg Cut egg and breaderumbs. breadcrumbs. and At the same same time dip in egg egg and breadcrumbs a a number of At of similar in in shape shape and size to the pieces of breast. lamb chops, similar pieces of breast under a Cook the chops and and the pieees a low grill grill or Cook saut6 them bath both in butter. saut Arrange crown on a long dish. Decorate the end bones Arrange in a erown paper frills. garnish in the middle with paper frills. Put the recommended recommended garnish with of the dish. dish. Pour a a few few tablespoons (see tablespoons of of Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce (see on the ipigrammes, or the pigrammes, left over or the stock left over from SAUCE) on the stock braising the breast, boiled down and strained. Garnishes sui/able suitable for ipigrammes of of lamb. lamb. Ail All those those Garnishes for pigrammes recommended noisettes. recommended elsewhere for lamb chops or noiselles. Sfitred breast r,mcn Slit Stutred breast of lamb. porrRrNE POITRINE D'AGNEAU FARCIE - Sht pockets. Fill of breast to the Fill them the pieces pieces of to form fonn pockets. them with with fine forcemeat bound with an egg. Sew up the opening. opening. Wrap Wrap the pieces in in thin in a of bacon. bacon. Braise Braise them them in a small pieces thin rashers rashers of quantity of Jiquid. liquid. quantity Drain and glaze. on a a dish Drain the pieces. Unwrap and glaze. Arrange Arrange on and as indicated. Sprinkle with strained pan and garnish gamish as indicated. Sprinkle with the the strained juices. juices. Stuffed breast of lamb can be served with all garnishes Stu/fed breast of ail the garnishes recommended reeommended for for pieces pieces of of braised braised lamb or mutton. Lamb chops. chopo. cOrsrnrrEs CTELETTES D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU - Rib lamb chops chops are cut In France cdtelettes and and cut from the rib rib roast. roast.ln France they they are are called ca lied ctelettes in in England they are called cutlets. cutlets. Loin lamb lamb chops are cut eut from the the loin and are known in French as c6tes.In ctes. ln England they they are known known as lamb chops. chops. Chops are most often grilled, grilled, but all aIl preparations preparations recommended mended in in the following following recipes are suitable for rib chops chops (cutlets) (cutlets) or or lamb chops chops cut from from the the loin. They They can be be served with the garnishes gamishes recommended for Mutton MullOn catlets CUI lets with any of the (see (sec MUTTON). M UTTON). Most Most frequently frequently these these garnishes gamishes consist consist of of a green asparagus tips, tips, etc. etc. green vegetable, vegetable, such as as beans, beans, peas, peas, asparagus dressed d ressed with wi th butter. bu !ter. Lamb chops I l'ancienne. l'ancienne. c6tersrrrs CTELETTF.S D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU A L'ANL'ANcIENNE CNNE - Fry Fry the the chops in in butter. butter. Arrange Arrange in in a crown on a a dish. Garnish the the middle with with a a ragofrt ragot of of lambs' lambs' sweetdish. Garnish breads, breads, cocks' combs and kidneys, kidneys, truffies trumes and mushrooms, mushrooms, bound bound wth with Velouti Velout sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) and and cream. cream. Dilute Dilute juices with the the pan panjuices with Madeira, Madeira, sherry sherry or or other other similar similar wine, wine, add add a a little little light Iight Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see (sec SAUCE) SAUCE) and and pour pour over over the the chops. chops. Garnish Gamish the the bones bones with with paper paper frills. frills. Lamb Lamb chops chops i I'anglaise. l'anglaise. c0relerrEs CTELETTES D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU A t'^LNGL'ANGLAISE LAISE - These These are are prepared prepared in in two two ways: ways: Grilled. Grilled. Season Season the the chops, chops, dip dip in in melted melted butter butter and and breadbreadcrumbs cnlmbs and and grill grill or or broil. broil. Arrange Arrange on on a a dish. dish. Garnish Gamish with with grilled grilled strips strips or or rashers rashers of of bacon, bacon, boiled boiled potatoes potatoes and and watercress. watercress.
536 536

LAMB
Sautied. Sauted. Dip Dip in in beaten beaten egg egg and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and saut6 saut in clarified butter. Arrange sprinkle Arrange in a crown on a dish and sprinkle with Noisette butter butter (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). with .llorbette Lrmb Lamb chops chops in in aspic jelly. jelly. cdrnrerrEs CTELETTES u'l,cNE,q,u D'AGNEAU A Le LA cel,6n a large lamb lamb loin, neatly trimmed, in very GELE - Braise a little court-bouillon (q.v.). Allow to to cool in its own strained little court-bouillon juices. juices. Drain and glaze with Drain and cut cut into into chops. chops. Dry Dry them them and with jelly. jelly. (The (The pan pan juices juices left left over over from from braising braising the the cutlets should be be added added to to the the jelly jelly before before its its clarification.) clarification.) Arrange Arrange the the chops chops in in a a turban turban on on a dish. Garnish with chopped jelly, jelly, hardhardboiled cut into quarters, lettuce lettuce hearts, hearts, or with with mixed boiled eggs eggs cut salads. or, as salads. Serve Serve with Mayonnaise Mayonnaise or or Tartare Tartare sauce sauce or, as is is customary customary in in England, England, with with Mint Mint sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE, SA UCE,
Cold Cold sauces.'1 sauces.)

Instead Instead of of cooking cooking the the loin loin whole whole and and then then cutting cutting it, it, the the chops Chaudchops can can be be prepared prepared as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for Chaudfroid of of larnb lamb chops chops (see (see below). below). froid Bar-man Bar-man lamb lamb chops. chops. c6tnlrrrrs CTELETTES D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU BAR-MAN BAR-MAN Grill Grill the the chops. chops. Garnish Garnish with with whole, whole, grilled grilled tomatoes tomatoes and and mushrooms. mushrooms. Put Put a a rasher rasher of ofgrilled grilled bacon bacon on on each each cutlet, cutlet, and and garnish garnish with with watercress. watercress. Lamb Lamb chops chops in in breadcrumbg breadcrumbs, garnished. gamished. cOrnrnrres CTELETIES D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU peNfss PANES cARNrEs GARNIES - Dip Dip the the chops chops in in egg egg and and breadbreadcrumbs crumbs if ifthey they are are to to be be fried, fried, and and in in butter butter and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs if if they the y are are to to be be grilled. grilled. Fry Fry in in clarified clarified butter, butter, or or cook cook under under the the grill grill on on low low heat. heat. Surround Surround with with the the recommended recommended garnish. garnish. All Ali the the garnishes garnishes for for fried fried lamb lamb chops chops are are applicable applicable to to lamb lamb chops chops in in breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. Lamb Lamb chops chops Brossard. Brossard. cOrersrrns CTELETTES D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU BRossARD BROSSARD Dip Dip the the chops chops in in beaten beaten egg egg and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs mixed mixed with with chopped chopped trufres. truffies. Saut6 Saut in in butter. butter. Arrange Arrange in in a a crown crown on on a a dish. Garnish the the middle middle of of the the dish dish with with mushrooms mushrooms dish. Garnish cooked cooked in in cream. cream. Put Put a a border border of of Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) round round the the chops. chops. Lamb Lamb chops chops Champvallon. Champvallon. cOrer,errrs CTELETTES D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU cHAMpCHAMPvALLoN VALLON - Choose Choose lower lower ribs ribs from from salt salt meadow meadow lamb, lamb, cut cut fairly fairly thick. thick. Proceed Proceed as as with with Mutton Mutton chops chops Champvallon Champvallon (see (see MUTTON. MUTTON).

Lamb chops conn chops Conti. cdrBrnrrns CTELETTES D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU CONTI - Coat the chops chops on on both both sides sides with with a a mirepoix (q.v.) (q.v.) of vegetables finely chopped and cooked in butter. Dip in breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and fry in clarified butter. Arrange Arrange in a crown on a dish, alternating with slices of ham ham cut in triangles and fried fried in butter. Garnish the the centre of the the dish dish with a a fairly thick Lentil purie pure (se (see PUREE). PURE). Surround Surround with with a a border border of Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Lamb Lamb chops chops in in cr6pinettes. crpinettes. cOTELETTBS CTELETTES D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU EN cnfplNsrrEs as Mutton chops in in cripinettes crpinettes (see (see CRPINETTES - Prepare as MUTTON), MUTION), or, instead of of braising braising them, fry them in butter before wrapping them in pieces of thin salt salt pork or pig's caul. cauJ. Lamb chops Dubarry. c6rrrnrrEs CTELETTES o'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU DUBARRv DUBARRY Grill or fry the chops and garnish with cauliflower cauliflower divided divided into florets and covered with Mornay Mornay sauce (se, (see SAUCE), SAUCE), sprinkled sprinkled with Parmesan Pannesan cheese. Brown Brown in the oven oyen or or under a grill. Lamb chops i la financiire. financire. c6TELETTEs CTELETTES o'.e,cNBAU D'AGNEAU A ul LA rN,c,NctiRE FINANCIRE - Fry Fry the chops. Add Madeira to the pan and and finish finish off off the the sauce with Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Arrange Arrange the the chops chops in a circle circle in a puff puff pastry shell (not too too raised) raised) and and garnish garnish the the middle middle with a a Ragofit Ragot d la financire (see RAGOOT). RAGOT). financiire If If there there is is no no time time to to make make a a pastry pastry shell, shell, the the chops chops can be arranged arranged in in a a crown, crown, putting putting each each on on a a heart-shaped heart-shaped crofiton croton fried fried in in butter. butter. Lamb Lamb chops chops i la frar4aise. franaise. cdrrrnrrrs CTELETTES o'lcNeeu D'AGNEAU A ul LA FRAN9ATSE 12 cutlets, put them them under a press; press; when wh en FRANAISE - 'Fry 12 coat with with chicken quenelle quenelle forcemeat. forcemeat. they are are cold, cold, coat they 'Put 'Put them them on on a a metal metal sheet sheet greased greased with with clarified butter butter and glaze with with egg. egg. Cook Cook in the the oven, oyen, painting painting them with with and melted butter from from time time to to time, time, until until nicely nicely golden. melted butter 'Prepare 'Prepare a a croustade croustade (q.v.) (q.v.) from from a pieoe piece of of bread bread about about l0 10 cm. cm. (4 (4 inches) inches) in in diameter, diameter, scooped scooped out out in in the the middle middle and and fried fried in in deep deep fat. fat. Put Put this this croustade croustade in in the the middle rniddle of of an entrde entre dish, place place the the cutlets cutlets around around it it and and fill fill the the middle middle with with fried dish, lambs' lambs' sweetbreads sweetbreads and and truffies. truffies. Glaze Glaze and and serve.' serve.' (Ic (La Grande Grande Cuisine Cuisine simplifie, simplife, by by Robert, Robert, 1845.) 1845.) Lamb Lamb chops chops with with garnish. garnish. c6rer,srrEs CTELETTES D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU s,lur6Es SAUTES cARNIES GARNIES - Season Season the the chops chops and and sautf saut them them in in butter. butter. Arrange Arrange them them in in a a crown crown on on a a dish. dish. Garnish Garnish with with vegetables vegetables or or any any other other garnish garnish recommended recommended below. below. Dilute Dilute the the pan pan juices juices with with white white wine, wine, add add Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE) SAUCE) or veal veal stock, stock, boil boil down, down, strain, strain, and and pour pour over over the the chops. chops. or

Chaud-froid Chaud-froid of of lamb chops lambchops

Chaud-froid Chaud-froid of of lamb lamb chops. chops. c6rrrrrrrs CTELETTES D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU EN EN cHAUD-FRop CHAUD-FROID- Braise Braise thick thick chops chops in in very very little little liquid. liquid. Leave Leave to a press press in in the the stock stock in in which which they they were were to get get cold,under cold. under a
braised, braised, strained strained and and with with surplus surplus fat fat removed. removed. When When they they are are quite quite cold, cold, drain, drain, trim, trim, and and cover coyer with with Chaud-froid Ch au djro id sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) using using the the pan pan juices juices in in which which the the cutlets cutlets were were cooked. cooked. Decorate Decorate with with pieces pieces of of hard-boiled hard-boiled egg egg whites, whites, truffies, truffies, pickled pickled tongue, tongue, etc. etc. Glaze Glaze with with liquid liquid jelly jelly and and leave leave in in a a cold cold place place to to set. set. Lay Lay the the chops chops in in a a circle circle on on a a dish. dish. Garnish Garnish with with chopped chopped jelly. Chaud-froid of of lamb lamb chops chops can can jelly. Serve Serve with with mint mint sauce. sauce. Chaud-froid be be served served with with a a vegetable vegetable salad salad or or mixed mixed salad. salado
537 537

GriUed lamb lambchops chopsserved served with with rice rice Grilled

LAMB
Garnishes lamb chops. chops. Green Green vegetables Garnishes suitable for lamb vegetables; butter or cream; various braised ve~~et,lbll~s cream; various dressed with butter potatoes prepared in various ways; pur6es pures of fresh or dried garnishes, vegetables; pasta products; rice; risotto; and and the garnishes, vegetables; simple or or mixed, mixed, recommended recommended for fil let steaks, for small small fillet simple and mdaillons midaillozs of veal, noisettes tournedos, of veal, noisettes and tournedos, escalopes of

for

pe LGUMES CTELETTES D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU cnrur,Ess GRILLES GARNIES cARNIES DE LEcuIrtEs cOTELETTES Season melted butter or oil, and cook Season the cutlets, brush with melted

mutton or lamb. GriUed lamb chops chops garnished garnished with various vegetables. with variors Grilld lamb

flame. Garnish Garnish with vegetables. Put paper under a moderate flame. friUs on end bones. frills

garnished with with various various green Grilled chops can be garnished Grilled chops can be
(asparagus tips, vegetables, dressed with with butter butter or or cream cream (asparagus vegetables, young broad beans, French beans, beans, kidney beans, young kidney beans, beans, garden French prepared in peas, peas, etc.); etc.); potatoes prepared in different different ways; ways; braised pur6es of vegetables lettuce, endive, etc.); pures of fresh vegetables (celery, lettuce, vegetables; marrows (zucchini) or or aubergines aubergines cut in vegetables; small marrows dice and sauted oil; tomatoes lightly sauted sauteed in sauteed in butter or oi!; butter or in Brussels sprouts sprouts or or cauliflower sauted saut6ed in or oil; oil; Brussels butter in butter; cucumbers cut into into uniform and cooked in uniform pieces and butter; butter; artichoke fried lightly in butter, etc. artichoke hearts fried Lamb chops D'AcNEAU A L'ITALIt'metIc6rersrrEs D'AGNEAU i l'italienne. I'italienne. CTELETTES ENNE - See d l'italienne. I'italimne. See MUTION, MUTTON, Mutton chops ENNELamb D'AGNEAU MAINLamb chopo Maintenon. Maintenon. CTELETTES cdrsrerrEs D'AGNEAU TENON rENoN chops Maintenon. See MUTTON, Mutton chops - See Lamb o'l,cNr.,q.u A LA la marchale. ln Lamb cbops marechale. CTELETTES c0relsrrEs D'AGNEAU chops la MARCHALE clarified u.lnfcuern Dip in egg and breadcrumbs and fry in c1arified - Dip

fried, can can be Lamb chops, be braised, chops, instead instead of of being fried, Lamb braised, allowed to get cold in the juices and then put into buttered papers. over from braising will be used for moistenThe juices left over &txelles (q.v.). ing the duxelles o'AcNerq,u A LA t,l, la parisienne. CTELETTES il la c0rsrsrrEs D'AGNEAU Lamb Lamb chops pARTstENNB then in in breadbeaten egg, then in beaten - Dip the chops in in clarified mixed with chopped chopped truffies. clarified crumbs crumbs mixed truffies. Cook in a dish. Gamish Garnish the middle of butter. Arrange in a crown in a butter. Arrange a border of cream. Put a the dish with mushrooms cooked in cream. asparagus tips dressed with butter round the chops. as})araglLls pfnnqrrre Lanb chops cOTELETTEs D'AGNEAU ni""","C..,."rD chops Prinette. P6rinette. CTELETTES mixed with and breadcrumbs mixed with finely Dip in egg egg and Dip the the chops in chopped cooked ham. Fry them in clarified butter. Arrange in a crown alternating with rows of of baby marrows Arrange alternating with (zucchini) eut in oil. oil. Garnish Garnish the cut in long slices and fried fried in (zucchini) in long slices and (see FONDUE) middle of the with a a Tomato fondue dish with fondue (see middle the dish mixed with sweet pimentos, cut in large dice and fried in oil. p'l,cNEl,u A LA Lamb Lamb chops il i la la portugaise. CTELETTES cdreremEs D'AGNEAU poRrucArsE - Fry the lamb chops with chops in in butter. Garnish with butter. Garnish oven or under a very small, stuffed tomatoes, cooked cooked in the the oven juices witb pan juices grill. Dilute a little add a Dilute the with white white wine, wine, add the pan puree with tomato pure with a a finely or pounded c10ve clove of of finely chopped or pour tbis garlic blended in, and pour this sauce over the chops. pRINcEssE D'AGNBAU PRINCESSE Lamb chops princesse. CTELETTES cOrnlsrrEs D'AGNEAU describes the This name ~~,'VL'VV" the following two methods of preparaand breadcrumbs, fry fry them l. Dip the in egg egg and them in in the chops chops in with a dish. Gamish a circle on a Garnish with clarified butter, arrange in a with butter and little bunches of asparagus tips dressed with butter and little bunches of tips dressed (sen sauce (see coarsely Serve with with Allemande Allemande sauce coarsely shredded truffies. Serve SAUCE) based based on concentrated mushroom stock. in a a circle. 2. circle. Cover 2. Cook the the chops chops in in butter. butter. Arrange Arrange in with with Allemande sauce sauce based based on on concentrated mushroom and garnish the stock. op and on each the a sliver of truffie Put a trufre on each ch chop stock. Put with asparagus tips dressed with middle dish with middle of the tips dressed with butter. the dish juices with Madeira and Dilute and thickened brown Dilute the the pan juices stock. stock. Pour this over the chops. o'lcNelu Lamb chops la romaine. romaine. CTELETTES .4, LA r,A, Lamb chops i la cdrsLsrrEs D'AGNEAU a crown on on a a RoMAIM ROMAINE - Fry the chops in butter. Arrange in a alternating with with rows rows of crofitons of dish, dish, alternating of heart-shaped heart-shaped crotons dish with fried in middle of the with Garnish the bread in butter. butter. Garnish the dish bread fried the middle potato balls, and tossed in butter tossed in cooked in small small potato balls, cooked butter and in conPour over over the centrated meat meat stock. stock. Pour the chops chops Romaine sauce centrated (see SAUCE) to which which the diluted with 2 2 table(see the pan juices, diluted (3 tablespoons) wine vinegar, have been added. spoons (3 been added. Lamb chopo Rmsini. CTELETTES D'AGNEAU ROSSINI RossrNr - Fry c0rrt"errus D'AGNEAU and arrange arrange on Put on on each a the chops in butter, and on a a dish. dish. Put a gral fried in in butter and and 2 2 or 3 3 slivers trufle slice of foie gras slivers of truffle slicr of (or any with Madeira (or tossed in in butter. butter. Dilute the the pan juices with (se SAUCE), Demi-glace sauce sauce (see similar wine), add add SOrne some Demi-glace similar wine), chops. boil down, strain strain and pour over the chops. u'AGNTAU A LA tn Lamb AGNEA U Lamb chops la rouennaise. CTELETTES c0rnt.srres D' chops li i la RoUENNATSE -- Fry in butter. cooked, ROUENNAISE Fry the the chops chops in butter. When half cooked, onion add to the pan 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) chopped onion shallots. lightly cooked in in butter, butter, and I teaspoon chopped shallots. a crown a dish, alternating alternating on a Drain the chops. Arrange in a crown on Pour cro0tons fried fried in in butter. with with rows rows of butter. Pour of heart-shaped crotons over the the following sauce: sauce: (+ pint" li pan juices with 3 lf cups) utps) Demi-glace Dilute the panjuices 3 dl. dl. (! remove from from the Boil for for 5 the sauce sauce (s* SAUCE). SAUCE). Boil 5 minutes, remove a heat and stir chicken livers livers rubbed rubbed through a in 3 3 uncooked chicken stir in (3 tablespoons) fine with 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons) tablespoons (3 fine sieve, sieve, blended blended with Calvados. allowing to Put the sauce the sauce without allowing to boil. boil. Put Heat without Calvados. Heat gently and in 2 2 teaspoons through a strainer. Heat gently and blend strainer. Heat blend in through a butter. butter. o'acNE,q,u le Lamb la sarladaise. A LA chops i la cOrnurrns D'AGNEAU Lamb chops sarladaise. CTELETTES SARLADAlSE chops or fry them in butter. Arrange or fry them in sARLADATsE - Grill the chops

tion:

butter. put on a sliver a crown, and put on each a crown, and in a Arrange the chops in of Garnish with with asparagus asparagus tips heated in butter. butter. Garnish of truffie heated (see dressed butter. Put sauce (see Put a a border of Demi-glace sauce dressed with with butter. SAUCE) mixed with Madeira Madeira and butter around the chops. p'lctlElu A LA Le Lanb chops il I la lrr mexicaine. CTELETTES c0rnr,srrEs D'AGNEAU MEXICAINE the chops in butter. Arrange in a crown on Fry MEXIcAINE a with bananas cut in in slices, middle with a dish dish and and garnish the the middle bananas cut dipped in batter and fried. (for 6 Add 2 tablespoons Add to tablespoons (3 6 chops) 2 to the the pan juices (for pinq scant cup) tablespoons) wine vinegar. Pour in 2 dl. (* pint, I brown brown veal stock. Simmer to thicken. Add to it the peel of 1 and orange, well drained, drained, and rinsed in in cold cold water, water, well orange, blanched, rinsed the chops. finely shredded. Pour over the A LA Le MINUTELrn[JTE c6rnr,nrrrs D'AcNEAU Minute lamb chopc. CTELETTES in Beat the chops flat and season. Saut Saut6 as briskly as possible in sizzling butter. Arrange in a crown. Pour over the chops the butter left in in juice and the and sorne lemon juice with a a dash dash of of lemon some chopped the pan, with parsley added to it. D'AGNEAU MONMoNCOTTLETTES D'AGNEAU Lrmb chops Montrouge. CTELETTES TROUGE and fry fry in in clarified egg and breadcrumbs and TRoucE - Dip in egg butter. a crown a dish. dish. Garnish Garnish the the middle on a in a crown on Arrange in butter. Arrange (see PUREE). Put purde (see with with fairly thick thick Mushroom pure Put a a (see SAUCE) around border border of buttered Demi-glace sauce sauce (see the chops. Lamb Lamb cbops chops Paul Paul Mounet Mounet CTELETTES D'AcNEAu PAUL IAUL cdreI,nrrrs D'AGNEAU MOUNET goose fat. MoUNET 6 chops in goose fat. Arrange them in a crown, - Fry 6 hpl'rt .. "h<>n,>t1 cro0tons. alternating altemating with rows of fried fried heart-shaped Put into into the 2 tablespoons (3 tab,lesIPOc)fls) the pan 2 tablespoons) Bayonne ham drained, dried, and finely which has ham which has been blanched, drained, shredded. When the ham is is lightly lightly browned the ham shredded. When browned add 2 tablecdpes or caps, spoons (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) shredded cpes or mushroom caps, and saut6lightly. Add 2 c10ves cloves of garlic, also finely chopped. chopped. ($ pint, I tablespoon wine vinegar, add Dilute with 1 wine vinegar, add 2 2 dl. (t U CE). Demi-glace sauce (see SA scant cup) tomato-flavoured tomato-flavoured Demi-glace SAUCE). Cook for 5 minutes. Pour over over the chops. papillotes. CTELETTES D'AGNEAU EN Lamb chops en papillotes. cOrsr,rrrEs D'AGNEAU EN pApILLorEs as described described in recipe for for Veal Veal in the the recipe - Prepare as chops en papillote (see VEAL). VEAL).

538

LAMB LAMB in in a a ring ring on on a a layer layer of of Potatoes Potatoes d la la

fJO"""'biJY

sarladalse sarladaise (see (see POPO-

TATOES). T ATOES). Pour Pour around around the the potatoes several several tablespoons tablespoons of of Pirigueux sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE).
Lamb chops soubise. CTELETTES D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU souBrsE SOUBISE - Grill soubise. c6rnlnrrrs or fry the chops. Arrange in a crown. Garnish orfrythe Gamish with with a a fairly fairly tlick thick Onion Onion soubise (see PUREE). Lamb Lamb chops cbops Talleyrand. TaUe'VI'and. c6rsrnrrEs CTELETTES D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU TALLEvTALLEYRAND Saut the chops in in butter. butter. Arrange in in a crown. crown. RAND - Saute Garnish Gamish the the middle of the the dish dish with with a a fairly thick Onion Onion soubise (see PUREE). Pour Pour over over the the chops chops the followirrg following soubise (see sauce: sauce : In In the the butter butter left left over over in in the the pan, pan, lightly lightly fry diced mushmushrooms rooms and and diced diced truffes. truffies. Dilute Dilute with with sherry sherry and and add thick thick fresh fresh cream. cream. Simmer Simmer for for a a few few moments moments and and pour pour over over the the chops. chops. Lamb Lamb chopo chops la la Toulouse. Toulouse. cOTELETTES CTELETTES o'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU A L.q. LA ToulousEglazn in TOULOUSE - Braise Braise the the chops chops and glaze in the the oven. oyen. Boil Boil down down the the stock stock until until thick thick and and add add to to it it 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) Madeira. Madeira. Arrange the the chops chops in in a a slightly slightly raised raised puff puff pastry pastry shell shell (or in in a a circle on on cro0tons crotons fried fried in in butter) butter) and and garnish garnish them, them, in in the Ragot d la toulousaine toulousaine (see (see RAGOOT). RAGOT). the centre, centre, with Ragorfrt Sprinkle Sprinkle the the chops chops with with the the pan pan juices. juices. Put Put paper paper frills frills on end bones. bones. end Lamb Lamb chops chops la la turque. turque. cdrnr,rrrrs CTELETTES o'.c,cNEeu D'AGNEAU A LA, LA TUReUE TURQUE - Fry Fry the the chops chops in in butter. butter. Arrange Arrange in a a circle circle on a a dish. dish. Garnish Garnish the the middle middle of the the dish dish with Rice Rice pilaf pilaf d la turEte turque (see (see PILAF). PILAF). Dilute Dilute the the pan juices juices with stock and Tomato Tomato sauce sauce (se SAUCE), SAUCE), add a a pounded pounded clove c10ve of of garlic garlic and pour pour over over the chops. chops. and Lamb chops chops Villeroi. Villeroi. c6rersrrns CTELETTES D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU vrLLERor VILLEROI Lamb See MUTTON, MUTTON, Mutton Multon chops chops d h la Villeroi. Villeroi. See Crpinettes of of lamb. 18mb. cnfpNnrrss CRPINETTES n'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU - Prepare Prepare like like Cr6pinettes r:n;nit:IPltp~ of ofpork pork (see (see PORK) PORK) using using lamb lamb salpicon salpicon (q.v.). (q.v.). Cripinettes of lamb lamb il la la p6rigourdine. prigourdine. cn6pNrrrss CRPINETTES Cr6pinettes of D'AGNEAU A le LA pfnrcouRDrNE PRIGOURDINE - Flatten Flatten and and trim trim 6 6 lamb lamb D'AGNEAU cutlets, season season with with salt and and pepper, pepper, and braise. braise. Allow to cutlets, cool in in the the pan juices. juices. cool Prepare 200 g. g. (7 (7 oz.) oz.) finely finely pounded pounded Pork forcemeat (see Prepare FORCEMEATS), add add to to it it 100 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz.) oz.) foie gras, and 2 FORCEMEATS), Mix well. weIl. diced truffies. truffies. Mix diced Drain the the chops and and dry them off. Coat on both sides Drain with a a layer layer of of the above above forcemeat. toncenl1eat. Wrap each cutlet in a with thin piece piece of of pig's pig's caul caul or or salt salt pork, pork, making sure that that it it is is thin entirely closed. closed. entirely Brush the the cripinetfes crpinettes with with melted melted butter, butter, coat coat with with breadbreadBrush crumbs, and and cook cook under under a a low low flame. fiame. crumbs, Lamb curry. curry. CARI CARl D'AcNEic,u D'AGNEAU - Follow Follow directions directions for Lamb Curried mutton mutton (see (see MUTTON), MUTION), reducing reducing the the cooking cooking time time Curried slightly to to allow allow for for the the tenderness tende mess of of the the meat. meat. slightly Double of of lamb. lamb. EoUBLE DOUBLE D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU - This This is is a a joint joint comcomDouble prising the the two two legs of of the the animal. animal. You Vou can can either either roast roast or or prising pot-roast it. it. Garnish with with vegetables vegetables and and serve serve with with its own pot-roast gravy, clear c1ear or or thickened, thickened, depending on on vegetable vegetable chosen. chosen. ryavy, Cook for for l8 18 to to 20 20 minutes minutes per 500 g. g. (l (lIb.) 18 minutes minutes lb.) plus l8 Cook at 200"C. 200C. (400"F., (400F., Gas Gas Mark 6). at AlI the the garnishes recommended for for the the baron baron are are suitable suitable All for a a double of of lamb. lamb. for Filets mignons mignons of of lamb. lamb. FTLETS FILETS MIcNoNs MIGNONS D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU - Small Fileb pieces of of lean lean meat meat found found on the the bone bone of the the saddle. saddle. In pieces general, these these small small fillets fillets are are left left with with the the big big fillets fiUets of of the the general, saddle when when the the saddle saddle is is boned, boned, but but they they can can also be be prepresaddle pared separately. (See MUTTON, Filets Filets mignons of mutton.) pared Fillets of of lanb (U.S. loin of lanb). FrLErs D'acNEAU - Half Fillets of the the saddle, saddle, boned, rolled rolled and and secured secured with with string. It can can of be roasted, roasted, pot-roasted pot-roasted or or braised. braised. be Ali methods methods of of preparation preparation given given for for loin loin or or shoulder shoulder of All lamb are are applicable. applicable. lamb

Fricass6e Fricasse of of lamb. 18mb. rnrclssm FRICASsE D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU - This is the same same as the second recipe for Blanquette of larnb above. above. Lamb's Lamb's head I'6cossaisc. rBre o'lcNEAU A, I'fcossnsn L'COSSAISE -

Singe and and carefully carefully clean clean the lamb's lamb's head. Cut in two lengthwise. wise. Leave Leave to soak soak thoroughly thoroughly in cold water.
cour t-bouil lon (q.v.). court-bouillon Cook onions Cook the the 2 2 halves halves of of the head head in in water water witl with carrots, on ions and celery celery as as a pot-au-feu pot-au-feu (q.v.). (q.v.). (Cooking time time about 2

Remove separately in Remove the the brains, brains, which which are are cooked cooked separately

hours.) hours.) Drain the head, put it in an ovenproof dish, brush with melted butter and and put put in a very hot hot oven. oyen. Serve with with a white white sauce to which I 1 tablespoon chopped and and blanched blanched sage and the diced diced brains have been added. added. Stuffd Stuffed lamb's head head I I'anglaise. l'anglaise. tErE TTE o'^r,cNEq,u D'AGNEAU rencrs FARc A L'ANGLAISE L'ANGLAISE - Scald Scald the lamb's head and remove all ail bones. Fill FiU it it with a stuffing d l'anglaise, made made of chopped suet and breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, well seasoned seasoned and and mixed mixed with forcemeat made made from minced lamb's lamb's liver Iiver and bacon. bacon. Wrap the lamb's Jamb's head in a napkin and secure both ends with string. Brown Brown chopped bacon rinds, carrots and onions in butter in a a braising braising pan. Put in the head. Add a bouquet garni (q.v.) and and a clove. clove. Braise Braise for 30 minutes. Serve with Pascaline Pascaline sauce prepared as as follows: Toss Toss I 1 chopped onion in 2 tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) butter, and moisten with 2 dl. ($ (t pint, scant scant cup) white wine. butter, Boil down and add 3 dl. (+ (t pint, pi nt, lf It cups) white sauce. Bring bind with wi th 2 egg egg yolks and and add add 1 tablespoon to the boil, bind chopped, blanched blanched parsley, parsley, a dash of oflemonjuice pin ch lemon juice and a pinch chopped, of cayenne pepper. ofcayenne Lamb's kidney - See See OFFAL OFF AL or VARIETY V ARIETY MEATS. Lamb's GIGOT D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU - The best way to prepare Leg of lamb. crcor [eg of of lamb lamb is is to roast, pot-roast pot-roast or or braise braise it. This joint, when leg This jointo it is is big, can also also be be boiled, boiled, according to the English English method. it Roast, pot-roast pot-roast or boiled leg of lamb can be served with Roast, ail the garnishes gamishes recommended for for leg, leg, baron, double double or all shoulder of of mutton. shoulder see CULINARY CULINARY METHODS, METHODS, Average Average For cooking time see cooking times for roasts. roasted or potThe leg of baby or milk-fed lamb is either roasted roasted. roasted. of lamb lamb is served garnished garnished with watercress watercress and Roast leg of quarters quarters of of lemon and and accompanied by its own gravy. It can also be be served, as is customary customary in England, with Mint sauce also (see SAUCE, Cold Cold sauces). sauces). Leg of of lamb A il I'anglaise. l'anglaise. crcor GIGOT D'AGNEAU A r'.lucI.AlsE L'ANGLAISELeg Season a leg of lamb, trim and bone it almost completely. Wrap it in a a napkin, lightly buttered buttered and and sprinkled Wrap sprinkled with fiour. Secure Secure with string. flour. 2 nll<lrtpn'rl quartered Put it into lightly salted boiling water with 2 carrots,2 with a a clove, and a carrots, 2 medium-sized onions, one stuck stuck with bouquet garzr garni consisting consisting of a sprig of parsley, thyme, a a bay bouquet leaf and and a clove clove of of garlic. garlic. leaf Cook the leg, simmering simmering gently, allowing 15 15 to 20 minutes Cook (1 lb.). Drain, unwrap unwrap it, and arrange on a a long long per 500 g. (l dish. Put Put vegetables vegetables around around it. il. Serve Serve with Butter sauce sauce II Il (see dish. (see with Butter teaspoons capers and ami SAUCE), to which has been added 2 teaspoons the strained stock. of lamb boiled boiled d l'anglaise can be be served with pur6e of Leg of of or celery celery which which has been been cooked cooked with with the leg, turnips or pure of of white beans. mashed potatoes, or pur6e Leg of of lamb lamb i la la bonne bonne femme. clcor GIGOT D'l,cNEl,u D'AGNEAU A I^A LA BoNNE BONNE Leg a leg of lamb, prepare as as described described in the FEMME - Using a for Leg of muttond la la bonnefemme (see MUTTON). MUTION). recipe for of lamb la bordelaise. bordelaise. crcor GIGOT D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU A rn LA gonoBORDLeg of ELAISE - Cook Cook a a leg of of lamb in a a mixture mixture of of butter butter and oil in a a ELAISE Wh en one-third done, done, add add 600 600 g. g. casserole. When casserole. lb.) tiny cpes or button mushpotato balls and 250 g. (9 oz.) fresh clpes

(lf

539 s39

LAMB
rooms, lightly tossed in in oil. oil. Season. Cook in a slow oven. When the leg and garnish sprinkle with Noisette gamish are cooked, sprinkle butter (see BUTTER, Compound Compound butters) in which 4 table(see BUTTER, spoons (* (t cup) cup) breadcrumbs with with 1 tablespoon chopped parsley and garlic garlic have been fried. Leg Leg of of lamb lamb la la boulangdre. boulangre. crcor GIGOT o'.e,cNslu D'AGNEAU A rA, LA sourA,I.IciRE BOULANGRE - Prepare like Shoulder Shoulder of mutton d la la boulangdre angre (see MUTTON). lsmb with various Braised Braised teg leg of oflamb varions garnishes. clcor GIGOT D'AGNEAU BRAIsf BRAIS - Prepare like Braised shoulder shoulder of of lamb lamb (see below), and serve with the usual garnishes gamishes suitable for braised, potroasted or lamb. roasted or roast mutton or lamb en cheweuil. Leg of oflamb chevreuil. crcor GIGOT D'AGNEAU EN cHEvREUTL CHEVREUILPrepare, using a leg of lamb, as as described described in the recipe for Leg mutton m ofmutton en chevreuil chevreuil (see MUTTON). Leg of Parslied leg of lamb. crcor GIGOT D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU psRs[Lf PERSILL - Leg of ordinary or milk-fed lamb, cooked in the oven or on a spit. When When cooked, coat it with fresh breadcrumbs mixed with chopped cbopped parsley. Press well weil to to make this this mixture adhere adhere evenly joint and put put the leg leg back back in the oven until evenly all ail over over the the joint the surface turns tums golden. Arrange on a a long dish, garnish with witb watercress watercress and lemons cut eut in half. Serve with its own gravy. In the south-east of France chopped chopped garlic garlic is added to the tbe south-east of parsley parsley and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs mixture. mixture. Pot-roasted leg lamb with with various garnishes. garnishes. clcor GIGOT leg of lamb D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU poBI-6PO~L - Leg Leg of of lamb lamb trimmed trimmed and pot-roasted in a casserole in butter butter or other other fat, fat, but but without adding adding any casserole in liquid. liquid. When the leg is cooked, put put it on a long dish and surround surround leg is garnish desired garnishes recommended for it with the gamish desired (all (ail garnishes baron, double, or loin of lamb). Pour over it the pan juices juices mixed with white wine and thickened brown brown stock. lamb. clcor Roast oflamb. GIGOT D'AGNEAU n6n RTI Roast leg of - Trim the leg at around the knuckle knuckle and the knuckle knuckle end, end, loosen the flesh fiesh around remove of the bone. Tie this part of of the leg remove most of leg with string. cooking times see CULICook on a spit or in the oven. For cooking Cook NARY NARY METHODS, METHODS, Average Average cooking timesfor roasts. garnish with Arrange with a bunch of Arrange the tbe leg on a long dish and garnish (keeping a little watercress. Serve Serve with the diluted diluted pan juices (keeping ]jttle fat in them), halves oflemons, of lemons, and SAUCE). and Mint sauce (see (see SAUCE). Lamb's 1iver. liver. ron FOIE D'AGNEAU - This is generally used with the rest of the lamb's pluck to prepare a special dish called fressure. All Ali recipes for calfs liver can also be used for lamb's liver (see OFFAL OFFAL or VARIETY VARIETY MEATS). lamb is Loin of lamb. cmnf CARR D'AGNEAU - Loin of lamb is often roasted. All roasted. Ali garnishes garnishes recommended recommended for baron or double of lamb are applicable to this cut. are served with their eut. They are own juices, clear or thickened, depending on on the nature of also served with Mint the the garnish. garnish. They They are are also served with MinI sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Cook lb.) plus 15 l5 minutes Cook for l5 15 to 20 minutes minutes per per 500 g. (l (lIb.) at 200'C. 200C. (400'F., (400F., Gas Gas Mark Mark 6). Baby or milk-fed lamb loins, which are not very big, big, are usually usually pot-roasted in butter butter or grilled. grilled. Loin lamb (U.S.) Loin of oflamb (V.S.) See Fillets Fillets of of larnb. lamb. -See Loin of lamb ul lamb il la la Beauharnais. Beauharnais. cennf CARR o'.l,cNnau D'AGNEAU A LA BEAUHARNATS Trim the the loin, season, brush brush with with melted melted BEAUHARNAIS - Trim butter butter and grill or broil broil under under a gentle gentle heat. When When it it is nearly

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Parslied lamb(Robert Parslied leg leg of oflamb (Robert Carrier)

s40 540

LAMB LAMB
cooked, sprinkle sprinkle with white white breadcrumbs and finish cooking cooking under under the grill grill or broiler to brown brown the surface. surface. Put the the meat meat on a a long dish, dish, garnish at each each end end with Noisette potatoes (see POTATOES) and with little artichoke artichoke hearts hearts boiled in court-bouillon court-bouillon (q.v.), saut6ed sauted in butter, and filled SAUCE) fil1ed with Beanharnais Beauharnais sauce sauce (Bdarnaise sauce (see SA UCE) fini shed offwith offwith a puree of of tarragon). tarragon). Surround the loin loin with finished a border border of of buttered Demi-glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Ioin Loin of lamb lamb la bonne femme. cmn6 CARR D'acunlu D'AGNEAU A LA BoNNE loin and BONNE FEMME FEMME - Trim Trim the the loin and brown brown in in butter butter in in a cocotte (earthenware fireproof 12 lightly fireproof casserole). casserole). Add Add 12 (9 oz.,l{ g. (9 fried oz., I~ cups) tiny potato fried bacon rashers and 250 g. balls. Season, Season, sprinkle with 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) balls. butter, cook in a slow oyen, oven, and serve in the cocotte. Loin of of lamb lamb la bordelaise. CARR D'AGNEAU LA Inin la bordelaise. cARRf o'^lcNeeu A LA, BORDELAISE - Pare and trim the loin and brown BoRDELATSE brown it lightly in a and oil in equal proportions in a mixture of butter and a cocotte (q.v.). Add fried in oil, and potatoes potatoes cut down to look Add cpes cipes fried olives. Season, and and cook a slow cook in like small small olives. in a slow oyen. oven. Add mixed with several tablespoons of brown stock several tablespoons of brown with tomato stock mixed puree pure and flavoured with a crushed c10ve clove of garlic. Sprinkle with chopped parsley. Serve in in the cocotte. Loin of lamb la la boulanglre. cARR Inin o'^lcNr.lu A LA cARRE D'AGNEAU un BOULANGRE - Trim the loin. Prepare in an earthenware sourfi.IciRE earthenware dish as Shoulder oJ of lamb d la boulangire (see below). u Shoulder marachre. CARR Loin Loin of of lamb lanb in a cocotte cARRf D'AGNEAU cocotte i la msraichere. EN COCOTTE A LA cocorrE r,l MARACHRE rrrlndcr$nr -- Trim the loin and brown it in 24 small dish. Put into the the cocotte 24 butter in an earthenware dish. (5 oz.) potatoes tossed ify cooked in butter, 150 g. (5 oz.) sais salsify cooked in butter, 150 tossed in court-bouillon (q.v.) and and tossed in butter, and 24 24 Brussels butter, and sprouts lightly blanched and tossed tossed in butter. 4 tablespoons Finish cooking cooking everything together. Add 4 tablespoons together. Add (5 tablespoons) (5 in the the cocotte. stock. Serve in tablespoons) thickened brown stock. Grilled Trim the Grilld loin loin of lamb. CARR cmnr D'AGNEAU GRILL cntrrf -- Trim loin. Make a few few surface incisions in the skin, season, season, brush with melted butter butter and grill (or broil) under a low flame until both sides sides are golden. Arrange garnish with watercress and and serve a long dish, Arrange on a dish, gamish serve (see BUTTER, Matre d'htel with with half-melted d'hdtel butter half-melted Maitre butter (see Compound butters\. o'lcNslu A LA Ln cmnf D'AGNEAU Loin of lamb la languedocienne. cARR LANGUEDOCIENNE lightly in in it Iightly lamb and and brown brown it LANGT,JEDocTENNE the lamb - Trim the butter (or (or goose fat) 2 small dish. Add Add 2 small an earthenware dish. fat) in in an onions tossed in ham, with 12 small pieces of smoked ham, in butter with 6 blanched garlic cloves and 200 g. (7 oz.) small white c?pes oz.) small 200 g. or button mushrooms fried in a a slow Season. Cook Cook in fried in in oil. oil. Season. oyen, and chopped parsley and Sprinkle with chopped oven, basting frequently. Sprinkle serve rvas cooked. cooked. in the dish in which it was serve in Loin of lamb la D'AcNEAU A LA Ntgonr la nigoise. cARR cmnf D'AGNEAU Trim a an eal~thlemlVal'e earthenware in an in butter butter in a loin of lamb and brown brown in cocotte (or a peeled, (q.v.). Add a baby marrow) peeled, zucchini (or baby marrow) Add zucchini cocotte (q.v.). diced, and tossed a large peeled, seeded cut tomato cut seeded tomato butter;a tossed in butter; potatoes, into pieces and and about about 20 20 small new potatoes, oil; and and fried fried in oil; cut to a in a a and pepper. Cook Cook in a uniform size. salt and size. Season with salt slow in the the with chopped chopped parsley. Serve in oven. Sprinkle Sprinkle with slow oyen. cocotte. Loin NoUILLES o'lcNEAU AUX AUx NOUILLESwith noodles. noodles. cARR cmnf D'AGNEAU Lnin oflamb of lamb widl 'rna (q.v.). Trim a cocotte cocotte (q.v.). and cook it in butter in cook it Trim the loin of of lamb and When ove it from Add from the cocotte. Add remove the cocotte. nearly cooked, cooked, rem When nearly noodles, and tossed water, drained, drained, and tossed in salted salted water, noodles, freshly freshly boiled in in (see BUTTER, butters), to to the the BUTTER, Compound Compound butters), rn Noisette Noisette butter butter (see cocotte. in the the together in Finish cooking cooking together Put the loin back. back. Finish cocotte. Put the loin oyen. brown few tablespoons of thickened thickened brown with a a few oven. Sprinkle Sprinkle with tablespoons of stock. stock. Loin D'AGNEAU PARMENTIER PARMENTIER lamb Parmentier. clnnf D'AGNEAU Loin of of lamb Parmentier. CARR Brown pan 250 g. a pan 250 g. lamb in Put in in a loin of in butter. butter. Put of lamb Brown a a trimmed trimmed loin (9 cups) (9 oz., potatoes. Season with and sprinkle sprinkle with Season and cups) diced diced potatoes. oz., melted a slow oven. Place Place in a slow oyen. cooking together together in melted butter. Finish Finish cooking

tl

juices with add white wine, wine, add with white on a on a dish. dish. Dilute Dilute the the pan pan JWces with thickened veal veal stock, and pour over the loin. Sprinkle with parsley. chopped parsley. garnishes. CARR c.mnf with varions various gamishes. of lamb Pot-roasted loin loin of lamb with pot-roast in and pot-roast a loin loin of of lamb lamb and D'AcNEAU Trim a D'AGNEAU poErf POL - Trim chosen as add the the vegetables cooked, add butter. Wh en half cooked, vegetables chosen butter. When garnish and and finish cooking cooking together. with garnish. and surround loin in a dish dish and surround with Arrange the the loin in a white wine, blend blend in in thlck(~m:d thickened with white Dilute the pan juices with brown stock, and pour over the meat. and garseparately, and be cooked separately, The pot-roasted loin may be garnishes recommended for recommended for the gamishes nished with one or other of the baron or double of lamb. garnishes can added to can be to the the loin during be added The following gamishes (hearts or quarters), diced diced aubergines aubergines cooking: artichokes (hearts in previously tossed in butter or oil, new carrots half-cooked in nrp,vu'I1l<:llv of fied in oil or butter, various types of butter and water, cipes fried large dice, cut in in large marrows cut sprouts, marrows mushrooms, Brussels sprouts, glazed turnips, glazed half-braised Chinese artichokes, half-cooked turnips, in salsify cooked in diced or shredded potatoes, salsify onions, small on ions, diced and tossed in butter. tossed in court-bouillon (q.v.), drained and garnished with with the the lamb can also be loin of lamb can also be gamished Pot-roasted loin or prepared in various ways, pur6es of of fresh or following: pasta prepared of tomatoes, tomatoes, or risotto, fondte of rice pilaf or dried vegetables, rice dried soubise, etc. etc. soubise, D'AcNEAU -- Another lamb. MDAILLONS ufomroNs D'AGNEAU Medallions Meddlions of of lamb. Lanb noisettes (see below). name for Lamb D'AGNEAU - Name lamb. MIGNONNETTES MIGNoNNETTES D'AGNEAU MignoruJettes Mignonnettes of lamb. l-amb noisettes noisettes (see below). for Lamb often used used for as BeeJ Beef hash hash D'IcNEAU -- Prepare Prepare as n,c,cHls D'AGNEAU Minced Minced lamb. lamb. HACHIS (see HASH). with Prepared with D'.a,cNEAU -- Prepared MoLISSAKA D'AGNEAU Lamb Lamb moussaka. MOUSSAKA (see Mutton moussaka moussaka (see aubergines like like Mutton lamb and and aubergines minced minced lamb

MUTTON).
pieces of of D'AGNEAU -- Delicate Delicate pieces NoIsETTEs D'AGNEAU Lamb noisettes. NOISEITES They are are trimmed loin of of lamb. lamb. They trimmed rib or or loin meat meat taken from the the rib taken from varies between Their weight varies into round, thick fiUets. fillets. Their round, rather thick (3 and g. (3 and4 oz.). 75 4 oz.). and 100 100 g. 75 and D'AGNEAU SAUTES NoIsETTEs D'AGNEAU lamb. NOISETTES Sauted of lamb. slurfrs -Saut6ed noisettes of and saut Season and saut6 Trim and flatten Trim the flatten them them lightly. Season the noisettes and and oil. a mixture of of butter oil. oil, or or a butter and briskly in in clarified butter, oil, Gamish. Garnish. fried on crotons crofitons fried served on Sauted noisettes are are sometimes sometimes served Saut6ed noisettes as foundations. foundations. in in butter or or on on various garnishes as recipes found in in the will be the recipes Garnishes and sauces them will be found Garnishes and sauces for them given all those those given these recipes, ail which which follow. follow. In In addition addition to to these well as as weil as those those elsewhere or mdaillons midaillons of beef, as for tournedos tournedos or elsewhere for to applied to mutton cutlets, cutlets, can can be be applied indicated for lamb lamb or or mutton indicated for noisettes. noisettes. in cooking most commonly used in The and gravies most commonly used The stocks stocks and also be made of Stock can can also be made are veal, chicken or or beef. beef. Stock on veal, are based based on lamb and bones. lamb and and mutton bones. mutton trim!nngs trimmings and n'Actselu NoISETTES D'AGNEAU A Lamb I'alg6rienne. NOISETTES Lamb noisettes noisettes i l'algrieruJe. given for for in the recipe given L'ALGRIENNE as described described in the recipe Proceed as r.'lr,cfnIruxn - Proceed (see BEEF). Tournedos BEEF). Tournedos l'algtrienne (see d l'algrienne NoISETTBS D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU Lamb Armenonville. NOISEITES Lamb noisettes noisettes Armenonville. arrange on a ARMENONVILLE noisettes in in butter, on a ARMENoNvInT -- Saut Saute the the noisettes butter, arrange (see POTATOES), garnish with with POTATOES), gamish foundation foundation of of Anna Anrw potatoes (see a morels combs and kidneys. Serve Serve with with a and kidneys. and cocks' morels in in cream cocks'combs cream and juices, mixed white wine wine and and sauce mixed with with white made of of the the pan juices, sauce made thickened veal stock. thickened veal Lamb D'AGNEAU BATRl.X sflrRlx -NoIsETTEs D'AGNEAU Lamb noisettes noisettes Batrix. B6atrix. NOISETTES Saut and place on on fried fried crotons. crofitons. noisettes in in butter butter and Saut6 the the noisettes in butter, Garnish fried in butter, morels or or other other mushrooms fried Garnish with with morels very in butter, small quarters of cooked in butter, small very small of artichokes artichokes cooked small quarters potatoes in with a a glazed glazed carrots in butter. Serve with butter. Serve and new new potatoes carrots and juices mixed pan juices and sauce with sherry mixed with sherry and made from from the sauce made the pan thickened thickened veal veal stock. stock.

it

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541 541

LAMB
Lamb noisettes Beauharnais. Beauharnais. NorsETTEs NOISETTES D'AGNEAU BEAUBEAUnoisettes in Saut6 the the noisettes on fried in butter. butter. Place Place on - Saut crottons. Garnish with very small artichoke artichoke hearts filled Garnish with crotons. very small with a puree with thick thick Bdarnahe Barnaise sauce (see (see SAUCE) with with a pure of tarragon added and tiny tiny potato balls. with a added to to it, it, and balls. Serve with sauce made from from the pan juices mixed mixed with Madeira and Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce (see SAUCE) with chopped trufres truffies added to it. iL Lamb noisettes Carignan. NorsETTEs NOISETTES D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU CARTcNAN CARIGNANSaut6 Saut the noisettes in butter and place on a a foundation of Anru Anna potatoes potatoes (see POTATOES). POT A TOES). Garnish Garnish with very small quarters of artichokes cooked in butter, and asparagus asparagus tips dressed dressed with butter. Put between the the noisettes noisettes very small small 'eggs' made made of of Duchess potato mixture (see POTATO), dipped in egg and breadcrumbs, egg and pur6e of fried, hollowed a pure holllO\iVed out and filled with a of foie gras with truffies. Serve with a sauce made from the pan juices mixed with port and Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE). ""rl,U'~JL,'. Lsmb Lamb noisettes chasseur. cbasseur. NorsETTBs NOISETTES D'AGNEAU cHAssEUR CHASSEUR Saut6 noisettesina Saut the noisettes in a mixture mixture of of butter butter and oil. Serve Serve with a sauce made from the pan pan juices mixed with Chasseur sauce sauce
HARNAIS HARNAIS (see SAUCE). SAUCE).

125 and I 125 g. (4 o2.,2 oz., 2 cups) chopped mushrooms and 1 teaspoon teaspoon chopped shallots. Dilute Dilute with white wine and moisten with veal stock and a little SAUCE). httle Tomato Tomato sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Lamb noilsettes noisettes Cussy. NorsETTEs NOISETTES D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU cussy CUSSY - Saut6 Saut, the noisettes the noisettes in in butter butter and and arrange on on fried fried cro0tons. crotons, Garnish Gamish with little Httle artichoke hearts filled with mushroom mushroom puree pure and sprinkled sprinkled with breadcrumbs. Serve with a sauce sauce made from the juices mixed with Madeira and Demi-glace sauce SAUCE). sauce (see (see >J""."'-JL1. Lamb Lamb nolsettes noisettes Duroc" NoIsETrEs NOISETTES D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU DtrRoc DUROC - Proceed as for Lamb noisettes small noisettes chasseur. chasseur. Garnish Garnish witl with very smal! potato potato balls balls fried in butter. Sprinkle with chopped chopped tarragon. tarragon. Lanb Lamb nofuettes noisettes I'italienne. NorsETTBs NOISETTES D'AcNBAU D'AGNEAU A L'ITALENM the noisettes in oil. L'n ALIENNE - Saut6 Saut the oil. Arrange on on fried cro0tons crotons and put on each noisette noisette a small smaU slice of lean ham fried fried in oil. oil. Serve with a a sauoe sauce made from from the the pan juices mixed with ltaliut Italian sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Lamb Saut6 Lamb noisettes Melba. Melba. NorsETTEs NOISETTES D'AGNEAU MBLBA MELBA - Saut ttre the noisettes noisettes in butter, arrange on on fried cro0tons, crotons, garnish with braised lettuce hearts, or with small smaU tomatoes stuffed with a mixture of of chicken, truffies and mushrooms, bound bound with with Veloutd Velout sauce (see (see SAUCE). Brown Brown in in the the oven oyen or under un der a grill. Serve with a sau@ sauce made from the pan juices mixed with Madeira Madeira and and Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (se, (see SAUCE). NOISETTES D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU MoNTMONTLamb noisettes Montpensier. NoIsETTEs PENSIER PENSIER - Saute Saut the noisettes in in butter, butter, arrange on on fried the noisettes crofftons, crotons, and and garnish with coarsely shredded shredded trufres and asparagus asparagus tips tips both fried fried in in butter. butter. Serve Serve with with a a sauce sauce made from the pan juices juices mixed with Madeira and and Demighce SAUCE). glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Lamb noisettes Nichette. Nichette. NorsETTEi NOISETTES D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU NrcrrETTE NICHETTE Lamb Grill the noisettes noisettes and put each on a cake made of Duchess potato (see (see POTATOES) cooked in the the oven until golden. Garnish Gamish with cocks'combs cocks' combs and kidneys. Put a grilled grilled mushroom room filled with grated horseradish on top of of each noisette. noisette. Serve Serve with Marrow Marrow sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Lamb noisettes noisettes la nigoise nioise I. 1. Norsrrrrs NOISETTES D'aclrslu D'AGNEAU A r,A LA NtgoIsE NIOISE - Saut6 Saut the noisettes noisettes in oil and garnish d la nigoise nioise (see GARNISHES). GARNISHES). Serve with a sauce made from the pan juices juices diluted with white wine and and tomato-flavoured tomato-flavoured veal veal stock. Lamb Lamb nolsettes noisettes la nigoise nioise II. Il. NorserrEs NOISETTES p',r.cNreu D'AGNEAU A la LA NIgoIsE NIOISESaut the noisettes noisettes in oil oil and garnish gamish with with small small new - Saut6 potatoes tossed tossed in butter, butter, and and French beans beans in butter. butter. Put Put on

Alternatively Alternatively one can remove the noisettes as seon soon as they are are cooked cooked and and put put into into the the same same pan pan (for (for 8 8 noisettes)

il

I tablespoon Tomato fon&te each noisette noisette 1 fondue (see FONDUE). made from sauce made from the Serve with a a sauce the pan juices diluted with white wine and tomato-flavoured tomato-fiavoured veal stock. Lamb noisettes noisettes Rivoli. Rivoli. NoIsETTES D'AGNEAU RJvoLI Lamb NOISETTES D'AGNEAU Saute the noisettes in butter, arrange on Anna Saut Anna potatoes (see POTATOES), and a sauce sauoe made made from the pan POTATOES), and serve with with a juices Madeira and and Demi-glace sauce (*e juices mixed mixed with with Madeira Demi-glace sauce SAUCE) SA U CE) with wi th trufles truffies added to it. i t. These can be served in a cocotte (q.v.). Lamb noisettes NorsETTEs D'AGNEAU D'AcNEAU Lamb noisettes Saint-Germain. Saint-Germain. NOISETTES SAINT-cERMAIN SAINT-GERMAIN Proceed as as described in the the recipe recipe for described in - Proceed Tournedos Saint-Germain Saint-Germafu (see BEEF). A t.e. noisettes I Lamb noisettes la la turque. turque. NorsETTEs NOISETTES D'l,cNEeu D'AGNEAU LA Lamb TUReUE Saut6 the noisettes TURQUE noisettes in butter, garnish with Rice - Saut pikf d la Ia turque (see PILAF) and aubergines aubergines cut cut in large dice pilaf and with a a sauce and fried fried in in oil. Serve from the pan Serve with sauce made from juices diluted with tomato-flavoured tomato-fiavoured veal veaJ stock. Lamb noisettes I il la Valenciennes. Valenciennes. NorsETTEs NOISETTES D'AGNEAU A VALENCIENNES - Saut Saut6 the noisettes in butter LA VALENCIENNES butter and put each a little d la la Valenciennes (see on little mound mound of rice (see GARon a of rice NISHES). NISHES). Serve with with a a sauce sauce made from from the the pan pan juices with white wine wine and diluted with and tomato-flavoured tomato-flavoured veal veal stock, with a pounded clove of garlic added to it. with vegetables. vegetables. NoIsETrEs NOISETTES Lamb noisettes noisettes garnished with noisettes in D'AcNEAU GARNTEs lux LGUMES lEcurr,rrs Saut6 the the noisettes D'AGNEAU GARNIES AUX - Saut garnish with butter or them, gamish with the the vegetables vegetables recombutter or grill them, mended. mended. Sprinkle the the sauted sauted noisettes very lightly with a sauce made from the pan juices, diluted diluted and boiled down, or with a thickened Demi-glace sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). The following vegetables The vegetables are used for for garnishingnoisettes: garnishing noisettes: quartered hearts of artichokes, sauted fried aubergines, aubergines, saut6ed or fried ftied cdpes and fried and other mushrooms, braised endive, kidney kidney beans in butter, sauted cucumbers cut cut into nto beans saut6ed Brussels sprouts, cucumbers uniform pieces and cooked in butter, stewed Chinese arti(okra), French gumbos (okra), chokes, French beans chokes, stewed beans in in butter, butter, stewed gumbos in butter or d la frangaise, franaise, asparagus asparagus braised lettuce, peas in tips in butter, etc. The noisettes The noisettes can also also be be garnished with with puree pure of fresh vegetables, such as chicory spinach. chicory or spinach. Pascaline of lamb. pAscALrNE PASCALINE D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU - Plumerey, who Pascaline continued continued Car0me's Carme's work, work, gives a a recipe for for this this rather rather complicated coml=.lic.at(:d dish. dish. He says that he wrote wrote it from the dictation of the old controller controller of of the Prince de Conti's household, but of he himself himself never never tried it out. 'Scald perfectly perfectly 4 lambs' heads and put them to soak, as brains and 4 tongues. Take 3 lambs' weil as as the the 4 sets of brains well mince with fresh bacon, bacon, fines fines herbes, salt, pepper livers, and mince lambs' feet with spi ces, to make make into forcemeat. Cook 12 12lambs' and spices, the tongues tongues in a court-bouillon. court-bouillon. 'Cook 'Cook the the brains brains separately in in a a white white court-bouillon. Wh en the tongues ton gues and brains are are cooked, cut cut them them into into large When dice with mushrooms, and and shape them into 12 croquettes. 'Now 'Now take the the 4 blanched heads of lamb and fill with the of them them several forcemeat. Sew them up securely. Put on top of slices of oflemon. Coyer with bacon bacon and cook cook them in a covered covered lemon. Cover slices casserole on a bed ofvegetables. of vegetables. 'Have 'Have a dozen lambs' sweetbreads sweetbreads ready. ready. Keep the doz.en larded lambs' a smooth smooth sauce (Velout - se see SAUCE), SAUCE), throats. Prepare a sauce (Veloutd into which you have put 2 2 handfuls of mushrooms. Boil into down and bind with 6 egg yolks. Take the heads out of the casserole, drain, drain, remove thread, thread, arrange arrange on on a a long long dish, dish, casserole, nose part facing outwards. outwards. Cut each foot in two and put 3 3 halves halves between between each each head. head. Pour Pour the the sauce sauce over over and and put around them them 12 12 fried fried croquettes, 12 larded larded lambs' lambs' sweetbreads and and 12 12 crofitons crotons of bread cut to look like cocks' combs, fried in butter. Add the lambs' throats and and mushrooms to the the sauce sauce and and cover cover the heads with with it. Alexandre Dumas Dumas pdre, pre, who who wrote wrote a a gastronomical gastronomical Alexandre
542

LAMB LAMB
dictionary, gives gives for the preparation of Pascaline Pascaline of lamb the the following following recipe, recipe, different different from that that given given by Plumerey: Plumerey: of lamb i la royale. pAscALINE PASCALINE o'AcNreu D'AGNEAU A L.l, LA Pascaline of Pascalire RoyALE ROY ALE - 'The custom of serving a lamb whole whole on on Easter Easter until the the time of Louis XVI. Sunday was kept in France until is how how the the dish dish was was prepared: prepared : This is This 'The of a six-month-old six-month-old lamb lamb was boned, the breast breast 'The neck of through and and the the shoulder shoulder bone bone broken broken and bone sawn sawn through bone of the legs were also trussed to to the the breast. breast. The The 2 shank shank bones of trussed sa me manner. broken and and fastened in the same broken 'It was stuffed with a forcemeat of pounded lamb, lamb, yolks hard-boiled eggs, eggs, stale fines chopped fnes of hard-boiled stale breadcrumbs and chopped seasoned with with 4 spices. spices. herbes, and seasoned herbes, fiesh was carefully larded and put to roast before a 'The flesh big fire. It was served whole, as as a separate course, after the a ragot a green green sauce ragofrt of truffi.es truffies sauce or on on a soup, either with a ham jelly.' cooked in ham Pt of of lamb lamb t la perigourdine prigourdine P0t6 PATE. See PT. - See p'r,cNEitu A la la languedocienne. ToURTE TOURTE D'AGNEAU LA pie I Ll Lamb pie LANGUEDOCIENNE - Puff Puff pastry pastry pie with with a fiJling filling of of smalliamb small lamb LANGUEDocTrNNE noisettes sauted noisettes saut6ed in butter; salsify cooked in Court-bouillon IX (see COURT-BOUILLON), cut into pieces and tossed tossed in IX(see butter; sliced mushrooms; and blanched olives. olives. Put mushrooms; stoned stoned and these ingredients into a pastryJined pastry-lined dish on a layer of finely finely these (see FORCEMEAT). forcemeat (see pounded Pork forcemeat with a FORCEMEAT). Dot with a piece of rolled-out pastry, few dabs of butter. Cover with a egg and 45 minutes. and bake in the oven oven for for 40 40 or 45 brush with egg Pour into the pie a down Demia few tablespoons of boiled boiled down glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE), fiavoured glace flavoured with Madeira. Lamb pilaf. PILAF like Mutton Mutton pilaf Prepared like rner D'AGNEAU -- Prepared PILAF). (see PILAF). Lamb's pluck AL or V ARIETY MEATS. OFFAL VARIETY See OFF - See Lamb parts which D'AcNEAU The parts are ragoOt. RAGOT which are n^lco0r D'AGNEAU Lamb ragot. - The most suitable ribs, neck, shoulder and and are lower ribs, suitable for this dish are breast. breast. Ragot (A A BLANC nrlxc ( I'anglaise. RAGOT RAc,otT D'AGNEAU Ragofft of lamb i l'anglaise. L'ANGLAISE) g. pan, in layers, 750 750 g. r',lNcrusr) -- Put Put into into a a pan, in alternate alternate layers, 01 (l+ lb.) pieces and medium-sized sliced lb.) lamb lamb cut in pieces and 3 3 medium-sized sliced cut in potatoes mixed . potatoes 2 medium-sized onions. chopped onions mixed with medium-sized chopped with 2 Season, gorni (q.v.). (q.v.). Pour in enough water water Season, and add a a bouquet bouquet garni or light fairly briskly with a a light stock to cover the meat. Cook Cook fairly the meat. lid lid on on the pan. Heap in a parsley. and sprinkle chopped parsley. a deep deep dish dish and sprinkle with chopped Ragot o'lcxeau la bonne RAcofr D'AGNEAU A LA rA, I la bonne femme. femme. RAGOT Ragofit of lamb BONNE g. (l* lb.) lb.) lamb lamb in in clarified clarified fat, fat, BoNNE FEMME FEMME -- Brown Brown 750 750 g. and pinch of and a a pinch sugar. Sprinkle Sprinkle of sugar. and season season with salt, salt, pepper and with 2 (3 tablespoons) lightly. flour and and brown brown lightly. 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) flour Moisten with i (l$ pints, pints, li a bouquet lt pints) water, water, add add a bouquet f litre O~ garni (q.v.) and garlic. clove of of garlic. and 1 crushed clove I crushed Cook with a Drain the lamb, for 40 40 minutes. minutes. Drain the lamb, a lid on on the the pan for trim, pan. pieces back in the back in and put the the pan. trim, and the pieces 3 cups) Add 500 (18 oz., potato balls and 12 12 small g. (18 cups) small 500 g. o2.,3 balls and small small potato onions pan for a lid lid on for lightly fried in in butter. with a on the the pan onions lightly butter. Cook Cook witb 40 (3 tablespoons) 40 to 45 minutes. minutes. 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons) tomato tomato to 45 tablespoons (3 sauce can he be added. added. sauce can Ali (q.v.) can given for ragofrts given for mutton mutton (q.v.) can he be used used for for All the the ragots lamb. lamb. Rib (U.S.) -- See lamb. roast of lamb (U.S.) Loin of of lamb. Rib roast of lamb Se Loin Saddle le of o'.l,cNEeu -- The The sadd lamb can can of lamb, SELLE snLLE D'AGNEAU saddle of lamb Saddle oflamb. be prepared by pot-roasting or like Saddle Saddle be prepared roasting, pot-roasting or braising, braising, like by roasting, of (see MUTTON). garnishes recommended recommended mutton (see All the the garnishes of mutton MUTTON). Ali for for mutton mutton can applied to to it. it. can he be applied The roasted or is either either roasted or milk-fed lamb lamb is The saddle saddle of baby or or milk-fed of baby pot-roasted. le usually pot-roasted. This remains attached attached to to two two This sadd usually remains saddle legs joint known known as as the legs of the animal, animal, which which constitutes constitutes the the joint the of the baron baron of lamb. of lamb. Sauted D'AcNEAU -- Prepared Prepared from from the Saut6ed lamb. lamb. SAUT s.lur6 D'AGNEAU the same same parts parts of are used for ragots. ragofits. of the the animal animal as as are used for
pieces. Brown in butter l| kg. (3* lb.) boned lamb into pieces. Cut It Season. with a carrot and an onion cut in quarters. Season. and put into a Remove the lamb with a a perforated spoon and Remove the recipe chosen. saut6 pan with the garnish indicated in the saut juices with 2 pint, scant cup) cup) white 2 dl. dt. (~ Dilute the pan juices $ pint, (i recipe, and and add add 4 4 dl. dl. (,f on recipe, wine, depending on wine or other wine, wine (6 tableI dl. pint, scant 2 cups) thickened brown stock and dl. (6 and 1 a fine pur6e. Strain Strain through fine through a cup) tomato pure. spoons, scant scant t spoons, + cup) and pour over the the lamb. strainer and (q.v,) and in the and finish cooking in the oven a bouquet garni (q.v.) Add a for 25 minutes with a lid on the pan. A L'ANCIENNEL'ANcIENNE o'lcNElu lamb I l'ancienne. I'ancienne. SAUT sAur6 D'AGNEAU Saut6ed lamb Sauted pieces and in butter. Add Add and saut Bone and saut6 in and cut the lamb into pieces Bone half and half blanched and 125 g. (4 oz.) lambs' sweetbreads (soaked, blanched (8 oz.) g. (8 lightly 225 g. oz.) small in butter), small mushrooms lightly cooked in butter), 225 (4 oz.) cocks' g. (4 combs and and kidneys, kidneys, 125 g. cocks' combs and 125 tossed in butter, and pan with the pan cooked in a white court-bouillon (q.v.). Moisten with pint, Madeira, to which which scant cup) cup) Madeira, juices diluted with 2 dl. (t t, scant $ pin (see SAUCE) (+ pint, and 2 2 dl. dl. pint, li Veloutt sauce sauce (see SAUCE) and lf cups) cups) Velout dl. (1 3 dl. added. have been pint, scant fresh cream cream have been added. cup) thick scant cup) thick fresh (t $ pint, gently for 20 20 minutes. minutes. and strain. simmer Season and strain. Leave to sim Season mer gently cro0tons fried fried in in butter. butter. heart-shaped crotons Garnish with heart-shaped D'AcNEAU AUX At.rx seurE D'AGNEAU lamb with with artichokes. artichokes. SAUT Sauted SautH lamb (l+ lb.) g. (It lb.) neck neck or 750 g. or ARrrcHAUrs -- Fry Fry in in butter butter or or oil oil 750 ARTICHAUTS pieces. Season in pieces. Season with with salt salt and cut cut in boned and shoulder shoulder of of lamb, boned and cook cook until until done. done. and and pepper and and cut cut in in hearts, blanched blanched and Decorate with 4 artichoke artichoke hearts, Decorate with 4 in butter and fried fried in butter or or oil. oil. large dice, or or sliced sliced and (6 tablespoons, pan juices with 1 scant + cup) cup) I dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, scant Dilute the panjuices pint, scant add 2 2 dl. dl. $ pint, scant cup) cup) thickened thickened down, add white wine, wine, boil boil down, pour over chopped lamb. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with chopped veal veal stock and pour over the the lamb. stock and parsley. AUx D'AGNEAU AUX Sauted lamb with aubergines. SAUT s.turf D'AGNEAU Saut6ed lamb with aubergines. (3* lb.) and trimmed lamb's ti kg. kg. (Ji lb.) boned boned and trimmed lamb's AUBERGINES AUBERcINEs -- Cut Cut 1 pepper and pieces. Season until and cook neck and pepper cook until neck into into pieces. Season with with salt salt and proportions. and oil equal proportions. in equal brown mixture of oil in brown in in a a mixture of butter butter and in a a shallow dish. Put Put on on top top When is cooked, heap in shallow dish. When the lamb is cooked, heap the lamb pieces and peeled, cut 3 in pieces and fried fried in in oil. oil. Mix Mix cut in 3 small aubergines, peeled, small aubergines, juices with veal stock the pan juices brown veal stock with white white wine, wine, thickened thickened brown the pan garlic. pinch of pur6e, flavoured a pinch and flavoured with with a of chopped chopped garlic. and tomato tomato pure, pour over Boil lamb. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with the lamb. and pour over the Boil down, down, strain, strain, and chopped parsley. chopped parsley. Sauted agaric. St. George's motels, St. Saut6ed lamb lamb with with cpes, cipes, morels, George's agaric. SAUT - Cook D'AGNEAUX AUX MoRILLES, MOUSSERONS MoussERoNsCook slur6 D'AGNEAUX lux CPES, ciirrs, MORILLES, the recipe for for sauted sautied /amb lamb with with lamb as as described in the the recipe the lamb described in (8 oz.) g. (8 aubergines, aubergines by 250 g. cipes, aubergines, replacing replacing the by 250 oz.) cpes, the aubergines morels agarics, fried fried in in butter butter or or oil. oil. morels or or St. St. George's George's agarics, Sauted D'AGNEAU CHASSEUR Prolamb chasseur. chasseur. SAUT SAUTE D'AGNEAU CHASSEUR -- ProSaut6ed lamb ceed given for recipe given for Sauted Sautied veal veal ceed as as described described in in the the recipe chasseur (see VEAL). chasseur (see VEAL). Sauted D'AcNEAU A LA r,c, CRME cRtME -Saut6ed lamb lamb la crme. cr&me. SAUT sAure D'AGNEAU I la Bone pieces.Season and lamb into into pieces. Season with with salt salt and Bone and and cut cut the the lamb paprika paprika and and fry fry in in butter. butter. juices with Heap pan juices Dilute the with 21 2f dl. Heap on a shallow dish. Dilute the pan dl. on a shallow dish. (scant (scant tI pint, pint, generous generous cup) Boil down down by by one-third, one-third, cup) cream. cream. Boil i cup) add pour over (2 oz., g. (2 and pour lamb. add 50 strain, and over the the lamb. 50 g. oz.,* cup) butter, butter, strain, Sauted D'AGNEAU AUX ALrxFINES FINES lamb aux herbes. SAUT slur6 D'AGNEAU Sautffi lamb aux fines fines herbes. HERBES in the recipefor for Sauted HERBEs -- Proceed as described Sautied Proceed as described in the recipe lambs (see below), I tableadding to lambs below), adding to the the sauce sauce 1 tablela minute d la minute (see spoon (3 tablespoons) and 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons) chopped shallots shallots and tablespoons (3 spoon chopped of parsley, chervil and tarragon. a mixture mixture of chervil and tarragon. of a of chopped chopped parsley, Sauted D'AcNEAU AL'INDIENNEI'INDENIIE lamb I'indienne. SAUT slurf D'AGNEAU Saut6ed lamb i l'indienne. Proceed l'inin the recipe for for Sauted Sautied veal veal d l'inProceed as as described described in the recipe . dienne (see VEAL) dienne (see VEAL). Sauted AL'ITALIENNEI'itaHenne. SAUT o'lcNreu L'ITALIENNE Saut6ed lamb lamb I l'italienne. slurf D'AGNEAU Proceed lamb d la recipefor for Sauted la Proceed as as described in the the recipe Santiedlamb described in minute (see below). pan juices with withwhite wine and and Dilute the whitewine minute (see below). Dilute the panjuices Italian (see SAUCE) Italian sauce sauce (see SAUCE)..

(3t

<t

Ot

543 543

LAMB LAMB
Sauted 18mb il SAUT D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU A Irc, LA utNurr MINUTE Sautded lamb i la minute. slurE neck or or shoulder of lamb into inta small small pieces. pieces. Cut a boned neck
Saut6 Saut on lively heat in butter or oil. When the pieces are cooked and sufficiently sufficiently browned, put parsley and a dash of them in a dish, sprinkle with chopped parsley lemon lemon juice, juice, and pour over them the pan juices diluted with I scant * J dl. (6 tablespoons, seant 1- cup) white white wine and thickened ",rp) veal stock. s,tur6 D'.a.cNEAU 18mb with wlth mushrooms. mllshrooms. SAUT D'AGNEAU AUx AUX Sauted lamb Saut6ed cHAMPIcNoNs CHAMPIGNONS - As As in the recipe for Sautied Souleed lamb 10mb with wilh cipes, cpes, rnorels, cultivated mushrooms, morels, St. St. George's agarics, but use cultivated peeled and fried in butter, whole, if they are small, sliced, sliced. if if they are large. ( la la hongroise). hon,gro,ise) sAUTf o'AcNnAU Seutffi lamb with paprika (i AU AU IAIRIKA PAPRIKA (A ( m LA noucnorsn) HONGROISE) - Cut into into pieces kg.

Braised Bralsed shoulder shoulder of lamb with various garnishes.

PAULE fplurE

(3* (31 lb.) lb.) boned lower ribs ribs or or shoulder shoulder of lamb. Brown Brown in

l*

butter. butter. As soon saon as the the lamb lamb is well weil browned, browned, add 2 2 chopped Sprinkle onions. Season Season with salt salt and I 1 tablespoon paprika. Sprinkle in 2 tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) flour. flour. Moisten with 2 dl. ($ (! pint, scant seant cup) white white wine. Boil down, and then add 3 dl. (f (t pint, pint, l| Il cups) cups) white stock, 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) tabJespoons) bouquel garni gami (q.v.). (q.v,). Cook Cook with a lid on tomato pur6e, and a bouquet of lamb out with a tue pieces of the pan for 30 minutes. Take the nPTrnT<>I~,rI spoon, and put put them in a pan with 250 g. g. (8 oz.) perforated mushrooms mushrooms which which have have been been sliced sliced and and lightly tossed tossed in butter. Add Add fresh fresh crfflm cream seasoned with paprika paprika to the sauce sauce left in the the first pan. pan. Boil down, strain, slrain, and and pour over the lamb. Simmer gently with a lid on the Ihe pan for 25 minutes. Saut6ed SAUT D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU pARMENTTER PARMENTIER Slluted lamb Parmentier. s.lur6 Cook Cook the meat meat and and sauce sauce as as described descdbed in in the the recipe for Sautied Sauled lamb with with aubergines, replacing replacng the aubergines aubergines with 4 4 diced diced potatoes fried fried in butter butter or or oil. oi]. 10mb la la printaniCre. printanire. slurf SAUT n'lcNnlu n'AGNEAU A L.n LA Saut6ed lamb pnnraNtinr PRINTAN1RE - Proceed as in the recipe for Sautded Sauted veal d la printaniire prinlanire (see VEAL). Sauted lamb lamb with with tomatoes. tomatoes. slurf SAUT D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU AUx AUX Saut6ed ToMATBS TOMATES - Proceed Proceed as as described in the the recipe for Sautied Sauted lamb lamb with wilh artichokes, Grtichokes, replacing replaclng the the artichokes anichokes by 8 small peeled, seeded cookOO in butter or oil. ail. A grated seeded tomatoes, tomatoes, cooked clove of garlic can be he added. added. Shoulder of of lamb. Illmb. 6pe,urn PAULE D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU - All AU the recipes given for Shoulder of of mutton multon (see (see MUTTON) are applicable "IJIJ,,~.a.Ul to for Shoulder shoulders of of ordinary lamb. lamb. They can be be boned and stuffed before before cooking. Shoulders of baby or milk-fed milk-fed lamb and and Pauillac lamb lamb should he boned. boned. These are should not not be are grilled grilled or roasted, roasted, and and served with with various various garnishes. garnishes. Shoulder Shoulder of of lamb 18mb I'albigeoise. fplurn PAULE D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU A A L'ALBlcEoIsE. L'ALBIGEOISE. Bone Bone the the shoulder and stuff with forcemeat forcemeat made of sausage meat meat and minced pig's liver Iiver in equal propromade of portions, portions, flavoured ftavoured with with chopped garlic and parsley, parsJey, and well weil seasoned. seasoned. Roll Roll the the shoulder shoulder and secure secure with with string. string. Fry it it lightly lightly until until golden in in sizzling sizzling goose goose fat fat in in an eafthenware casserole. Srirround with quartered potatoes potatoes or whole new potatoes, fJV 1.'" 'LI'-", and 12lightly 12lightly blanched bJanched cloves cloves of of garlic. gadie. Season, liule goose goose fat and and cook cook in the the oven. aven. Season, sprinkle with wth a little t Sprnkle with with chopped parsley. parsley, Serve Serve in in the the dish dish in in which which it Sprinkle was was cooked. of lamb la boulang&re. tplur,n PAULE D'AGNE.Lu D'AGNEAU A ul LA Shoulder of Shoulder BoULANciRE BOULANGRE - Bone Bone the the shoulder, season it il on the the inside, imide, roll, roll, and and secure secure with wth string. string. Cook Cook for for 30 30 minutes minutes in in an earthenware in which whch 3 to to 4 4 tablespoons tablespoons earthenware fireproof fireproof dish dish in butter butter have have been heen heated. heated. Surround Surround with with 3 sliced or quartered large potatoes and 3 onions, finely finely chopped chopped and and lightly Iightly fried fried in in butter. Season Season the the onions, garnish, garnish, sprinkle with the the butter butter left left over in in the the pan pan and and finish in the the oven, basting frequently. Just Just before before finish cooking in serving add add 4 tablespoons tab1espoons (* cup) thickened brown stock. stock. serving

roll and secure with string. Put 2 Put into ioto a a braising brasing pan pan finely chopped bacon bacon rinds, rnds, 2 carroLS and and I J onion, onion, and and fry lightly in butter. butter. Place Place the carrots top. Leave to cook cook with the lid on the shoulder of lamb on top. pan 10 minutes. Moisten Moisten with l{ 11 dl. $ pint, ! white pan for 10 t cup) white wine and boil down. Add 2+ dl. (scant (seant I pint, generous generous cup) thickened 1 dl. (6 tablespoons, scant seant! thickened brown stock, stock, I * cup) tomato pur6e, pure, a a bouquet bouquet garni garni (q.v.) and and the the bones bones and tomato of the shoulder. Cover Caver with with a lid and cook cook in trimmed scrap,s scraps of trimmed a moderate oven oyen for I 1 to lf Il hours, depending on the size siz.e of the shoulder. Glaze in the the oven, and arrange on a dish. Surround Surround with pan juices juices left over over from the recommended recommended garnish. gamish. Heat the pan the braislng, remove remoVe fat, boil bail down, strain strain if if necessary neeessary and pour braising, over the the shoulder. sui/able for for braised shoulder shoulder of lamb. 10mb. All Ail the Garnishes suitable garnishes garnishes indicated indicated for for the baron, double, loin and saddle of roast roast or or braised mutton, mutton, and and beans beans or or Bean Beon purie pure d la PURE). bretonne (see PUREE). ........" .. "" ....- of lamb lamb I . la la catalane catalarK:: or or with with pistachio pista chio nuts. l'lutS. Shoulder PAULE D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU A r,c. LA clrAr.mre CATALANE (rN (EN rsucHn) P!STACHE) - See See Eplurn Shoulder of ofmulton la catalane. catalane. MUTTON, Shoulder mutton d 18mb i la gasconne. fpluru PAULE o'.l,cxsA,u D'AGNEAU A rA, LA Shoulder of lamb GASCONNE - Stuff Stuff the boned boned shoulder shoulder with witb a forcemeat forcemeal made made cAscoNNE raw ham ham (fat (fat and and lean), lean), stale stale bread bread (without (without crusts) crusls) of raw in stock stock and and squeezed out, out, chopped chopped onion, onon, and soaked in weil choppe<! garlic garlc and parsley, parsley, all ail bound with wlth an egg, cgg, and and well chopped seasoned. seasoned. goose fat fat and brown brown lightly lightly in the Brush the shoulder with goose oven. oven. Put Put into into a braising braising pan pan with wth coarsely shredded, shreddcd. blanched blanched green quanered carrots, carrots, I 1 onion onion stuck with a green cabbage,2 cabbage, 2 quartered clove, and a bouquet bouquet garni (q.v.). Moisten Moisten with with slightly fat 45 minutes. minutes. Add Add quartered stock. Cook Cook in the the oven oven for 45 stock. potatoes another 45 minutes. minutes. potatoes and and finish finish cooking cooking together together for for another Roastshoulder Roas! shoulder of of lamb.6plutu lamb. PA ULE o'e,cNrlu D'AGNEAU nOrrcR6TlE - Shoulder Shoulder of lamb lamb is is usually boned, boned, rolled and and secured secured with with string before being roasted in the the oven or on a spit. SpL It is garnished roasted in with with watercress watercress and and its iLS gravy gravy is is served separately. separately. The shoulder shoulder of baby or milk-fed milk-fed lamb is not not boned. It ft should be be roasted roasted in the the oven or on a spit on a brisk fire. Garnish with with watercress watercress and and serve the the gravy separately. Garnish RoUed shoulder shollider of of lamb 18mb (Car0me's recipe). 6p,lut,e P AULE Rolled lamb to D'AGNEAU EN EN BALLorrIl.rE BALLOTTINE - 'Bone 'Bone 2 2 shoulders shoulders of oflamb ta the the D'AGNEAU bone; season season with with salt, pepper pepper and nutmeg nutmeg and stuff shank bone; it with a finely finely pounded forcemeat. forcemeat. with a 'With a butcher's needle neOOle thread thread a string through through to 10 the Ihe of the the shoulder shoulder in in such a way as as to to make make it serve as as a end of Lard each shoulder shoulder with with lardoons of bacon, bacon, draw string. Lard in in in the the shape shape of ofa rosette, Put Put into into a a casserole working them them in working a rosette. trimmings 2 trimmngs from the the shoulders shoulders and veal veal scraps, I 1 carrot, 2 onions and a a bouquet bouquel garni. ga.rni. Cover Caver with rashers of bacon. bacon. onions bouillon and and a a good good glass glass of of white white wine wine to to Moisten with bouillon Moisten caver the the larded larded shoulders, shoulders, and and cook cook for llhours. lt hours. Take Take care care cover to glaze the the larded larded shoulders gradually. gradually. Drain, Drain, remove remove to and garnish garnish with small g)azed on a dish and string, arrange on carrots and and onions, onions, or braised braised lettuce lettuce or celery. eelery. Strain the carrots pan pour some some pan juices juices and and remove remove surplus fat, fat, boil bail down, pour lamb and over the the rolled rolled shoulder shoulder of oflamb and serve serve the the rest rest separately. separately. over BROCHETTES D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU - Using pieces of of Lamb on on skewers skewers. BRocTIETTEs Lamb lean lamb lamb cut from from the the neck neck or lower lower ribs, ribs. and pieces of lean bacon, preparc prepare as as described described in in the the recipe for Brochette of bacon, venl (se (see VEAL). VEAL). veal MINCS n'acxn,lu D'AGNEAU - Best Best cuts of of lamb, lamb, potpotlamb. ErrrrNcfs Sliced lamb. braised. roasted or braised. roasted OFF AL or or VARIETY VARIETY MEATS. MEATS. Lamb sweetbreadssweetbreads - See See OFFAL Lamb
544

D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU snnlsfg BRA1SE - Bone Bone a shoulder shoulder of of lamb. Season Season inside. inside,

LAMPREY

Lamb on skewers Carrier) Lamb skewers or brochettes (Robert Carrier)

Timbale of of lamb lamb ir I'ancienne. l'ancienne. TIMBALE D'AGNEAU Timbale TIMBALE D'AGNslu

it small lamb noisettes braised in court-bouillon (q.v.),lamb (q.v.), lamb

sweetbreads sweetbreads cooked in butter, and truffies and and mushrooms,

L'ANcIENNE L'ANCIENNE - Line a Charlotte Charlotte mould with pie pastry. Put in

(see SOUPS tapioca cooked in it to to a pure of fresh fresh peas peas (see a pur6e tapioca Potage Lamballe). Lamballe). AND BROTHS, Potage

LAMBICK - Highly intoxicating Belgian beer, beer, rather sour LAMBICK

all with Velout Velouti sauce al! blended blended with sauce (see (see SAUCE) diluted with
cream Madeira. Alternate Alternate with layers of cream and flavoured with Madeira.

in taste. (See BEER.) BEER.)

_ See LA MOTHE.SAINT-HERAYE MOTHE-SAINT-HRA YE LA SCE CHEESE. CHEESE.

LAMPROIE - There three types types of edible LAMPREY. LAMrRoIE There are are three lamprey: the or sea-lamprey, sea-lamprey, the lamprey: the lampern larnpern or the lamprey-eel or

macaroni cooked in water and and blended with cream, butter and and grated cheese. cheese. These fillings must must be be completely completely cold before being put into into the the pie pie dish. dish. Cover Coyer the the dish dish with a pastry lid and decorate the top with pastry leaves. Ieaves. Make Make an opening to allow steam to escape and brush brush over over with beaten beaten egg. Bake Bake in a hot oven oyen for q 40 b to 45 minutes. Before serving, serving, pour pour into the pie through the opening, a few tablespoons of the Velout Veloutd sauce. the sauce. Lamb's trotters (feeQ. (feet). pIEDs PIEDS D'AGNEAU - These These are are prepared as VARIETY as Sheep's trotters trotters (feet) (jeet) (see OFFAL or VARIETY MEATS). MEATS). Vol-au-vent of lamb with tnffes truffles and and mushrooms mushrooms 1. VOLI. vorAU-VENT D'AGNEAU AUx AUX TRUFFES TRUFFES ET ET cHAMprcNoNs CHAMPIGNONS - Fill Fili a vol-au-vent soon as as it it is is out of the the oven, oyen, with with a vol-au-vent case, case, as as soon ragofrt sweetbreads ragot of braised thin noisettes of lamb, lamb sweetbreads cooked cooked in in butter, butter, and and sliced truffies truffies and and mushrooms, all ail moistened with white brown thickened stock. white or brown Vol-au-vent of lamb with ftufles truffles and mushrooms mushrooms II. n. vorVOLAU-vENT TRUFFES ET cHAMpIGNoNs AU-VENT D'AGNEAU Aux AUX TRUFFES CHAMPIGNONS - Prepare Prepare a vol-au-venl vol-au-vent case in the usual usual way. As soon as as it is removed removed from fil! with with a a ragofit ragot of of lamb lamb sweetbreads sweetbreads from the the oven, oyen, fill braised in court-bouillon court-bouillon (q.v.), with trufres truffies and mushrooms mushrooms braised added, added, the whole blended blended with a piping hot Allemande Allemande sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SA UCE).

LAMBALLE - Name given to various various dishes. It is usually LAMBALLE applied by adding consomm with wi th a pplied to a meat broth made by adding consomm6
545

proper. river lamprey lamprey and the lamprey proper. The found in the Atlantic and the MediterThe lamprey-eel found and the ranean is higbly prized. prized. It is is similar to the eel in is the most highly general appearance, appearance, but but different from from it in in a a number of yellowish with brown markings, its dorsal details: its skin is yellowish fins are are spaced spaced along along its its back, back, and fins has seven and it has seven bronchial which form form two two vertical lines on either side side of its orifices which neck. In In spring, the lamprey-eels migrate migrate to to the the mouths mouths of spring, the rivers. rivers. They They are to be found in large numbers numbers in the Loire, Loire, the Rhne Gironde. Rh6ne and the Gironde. of the lamprey lamprey is delicate delicate but, being being very very fatty, it The flesh of is somewhat indigestible. indigestible. Lampreys of medium size are the most sought after, especially those caught in the mouths of rivers. so that that the the skin skin can be easily removed. Scald the the fish fish so Scald can be tbe manner in which it is to be cooked, cut it According to the into thick slices or leave it whole. Prepare according to the selected recipe. recipe. The lamprey can be cooked cooked in a a great great many many different different ways. The lamprey commonly it is stewed in wine (en matelote) flavoured flavoured Most commonly of the fish. All Ali recipes for eel (q.v.) (q .v.) are are suitable with the blood blood of with lamprey. for lamprey. la Bordelaise Bordelaise (Bordearx (Bordeaux cookery). r,lupnon LAMPROIE A Lamprey I Lamprey BORDELAISE - Bleed Bleed a a medium-sized lamprey. lamprey. Keep the LA BoRDELAIsp

LAMPSANA LAMPSANA
blood blood aside to to flavour flavour the the sauce. sauce. Scald the fish and scrape off the the skin. Remove Remove the central central nerve. (To (To do this, this, cut off the tip tip of of the the lamprey's lamprey's tail, make an incision round the neck neck below the gills gills and, through through this opening, catch hold of of the below the nerve nerve and and pull puil it it out.) Cut Cut the the fish fish into into slices slices 5 5 crn. cm. (2 inches) inches) thick. Butter Butter a pan and and line line it it with with sliced sliced onions onions and carrots. carrots. Put Put in the slices slices of lamprey. lamprey. Place Place a a bouquet bouquet garni garni (q.v.\ (q.v.) and a clove of of garlic garlic in the the middle middle of of the the dish. dish. Season Season with salt salt and pepper. pepper. Moisten with with enough enough red red wine wine to to cover coyer the the fish. Boil for 12 minutes. Cook white leek Cook 12 12 slices slices of ofwhite leek with with 4 tablespoons tablespoons (l (t cup) cup) raw diced diced bacon bacon in butter butter in a a covered pan. Drain the slices of lamprey lamprey and and put put them them in in a a pan, pan, alternating alternating with the the slices slices of white white leek. leek. Make Make a roux roux (q.v.) (q.v.) of of flour flour and butter. Moisten with 5 with the the cooking cooking stock stock of of the the lamprey. lamprey. Cook Cook this sauce sauce for I15 minutes, minutes, strain, and and pour pour over over the the lamprey. lamprey. Simmer very slowly slowly until until the the fish fish is is cooked. cooked. Arrange Arrange the the fish on a serving serving dish and pour pour over over it it the the sauce sauce mixed mixed with with some sorne of of the the blood. blood. dish and Garnish Gamish with with slices slices of of bread bread fried fried in butter. butter.

LAMPSANA" LAMPSAN~ NIPPLEWORT. NIPPLEWORT.

LAMrSANE LAMPSANE - Plant of the

endive endive family, family, similar similar to to the the sow-thistle. sow-thistle. Its Its leaves leaves are eaten raw raw in in salad. salado Cooking Cooking turns turns them them bitter. bitter.

flat flat and and narrow, narrow, somewhat somewhat like like a a cat's cat's tongue tongue in in appearance. appearance. Langues-de-chat, which are crisp, crisp, dry dry biscuits, biscuits, can can be be made made Langues-de-chat,whichare and and flavoured flavoured in in various various ways. ways. Only Only biscuits biscuits made made according according to to one one of of the the recipes recipes given given below, below, however, however, can can properly properly be be called lqngues-de-chat. langues-de-chat. called These These keep keep for for a a long long time time and and are are served served with some sorne liqueurs liqueurs and and sparkling sparkling wines. wines. They They are are also also served served with with iced iced and used used as as an an ingredient ingredient of various various sweets (desserts) (desserts) and sweets puddings. puddings. Langue-de-chat 1 - Work Work together, together, in in a a bowl, bowl, 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz., oz., Langue-de-chat 2cups) cups) fine fine sugar sugar and 2t 21 dl. dl. (scant (scant 1 pint, pint, generous generous cup) cup) 2 fresh cream. cream. Add Add 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz., oz., 2| 2i cups) cups) sieved sieved flour, flour, I1 fresh tablespoon vanilla-flavoured vanilla-flavoured fine fine sugar, sugar, and, and, when when the the tablespoon mixture is is quite quite smooth, smooth, 5 5 stiffiy stiffiy beaten beaten egg egg whites. whites. mixture Rub a a metal metal baking baking sheet sheet with with pure pure w{D( wax or or line line with with heavy heavy Rub paper and, and, using using a a forcing-bag forcing-bag with with a a round round nozzle, waxed paper waxed the mixture mixture to to make make little little strips strips about about 4 2i cm. (1 inch) inch) pipe the pipe .(l apart, so so that that they they will will not not run run into into one one another another during during apart, baking. baking. Bakein in a a hot hot oven oyen for for about about 8 8 minutes. minutes. Bake Langue-de-chat II fi - Ingredients. Ingredients. 125 125 g. g. @l (41 oz., oz., generous generous 1 Langue-dechat cup) butter, butter, 125 125 g. g. (4 (41 oz., oz., generous generous cup) cup) sieved sieved flour, flour, 100 100 g. g. cup) (4 (4 oz., oz., scant scant cup) cup) fine fine sugar, sugar, 25 25 g. g. (l (1 oz., oz., + cup) cup) vanillavan illaflavoured fine fine sugar,2 sugar, 2 eggs. eggs. flavoured Cream the the butter butter in in a a warmed warmed bowl. bowl. Add Add the the Method. Cream Method. sugar and and vanilla-flavoured vanilla-flavoured sugar. sugar. Work Work the the mixture mixture for for 2 2 sugar and mix mix in in the the eggs, eggs, one one at at a a time. time. Add Add the the sieved sieved minutes, and minutes, flour. flour. onto a a baking baking sheet sheet as as indicated indicated above. above. Pipe this this mixture mixture onto Pipe

LANGUE-DE-CHAT LANGUE-DE-CHAT (Cat's (Cat's tongue) tongue) - In In the the view of of some sorne experts, name from its its shape - thin, thin, experts, this this biscuit biscuit derives derives its its name

Ambialet, Tarn Tarn (French (French Governnent Governmenl Tourist Tourisloffice) Ambialet, ofice)

recognisable. ln In this this province, province, which which was was called recognisable. called Gallia Narbonensis under the Romans, was invented the ragot Narbonensis ragofit of was the the prototype of that mutton with white beans which was robust dish known as as cassoulet. cassoulet. robust The Languedoc Languedoc larder larder is is well weIl stocked. stocked. In In the the southThe western provinces of of France are to be be found excellent excellent meat, meat, western poultry, and good winged and ground game. The succulent poultry, finest foie foie gras gras is made in this region from goose and finest and duck and their their indispensable foil, foil, the the truffie, truffie, the the 'subterliver and ranean empress' empress' as as it was called by by the the Marquis de de Cussy. Cussy. ranean To these these delicacies delicacies must be be added excellent saltwater and To freshwater fish. fish. Among the latter latter are the the trout of the the icy freshwater Pyrenean streams, streams, the the perch, bream, tench, tench, pike, etc., etc., which which Pyrenean are found found in abundance in the Garonne, Garonne, Aridge, Arige, Tarn and are Aude rivers. rivers. Aude The Languedoc Languedoc kitchen kitchen gardens are are well weil stocked stocked with The and the the orchards orchards with delicious delicious fruit. Languedoc vegetables and vegetables also has has its its vineyards vineyards and produces produces excellent excellent wine. also With such such natural natura! resources, resources, it is is no Culinary specialities specialities - With Qnlinsry wonderthat the caisine cuisine of of Languedoc Languedoc is is excellent excellent and and that that the the wonder that the large number number of of succulent succulent specialities. specialities. region has has a a large region Here, first, first, are are some sorne typical typical Languedoc Languedoc broths broths and and soups: soups: Here, Pot-au-feu d la la poulefarcre poulefarcie (stuffed chicken chicken hotpot); hotpot); soup soup au au Pot-au-feu farci; pot-au-fat pot-au-feu ahigeois albigeois (with (wi th stuffed stuffed goose gooseneck); pot-auneck); pot-aufarci; feu carcassonnais carcassonnais (with ribs of of beef, beef, neck neck of of mutton, lean lean fan bacon, stuffed stuffed cabbage cabbage and and white white beans); beans); ouillade ouillade catalan; catalan; bacon, (Rousbraou boufat bouffat de de Cerdagne; boullinade boul/inade des des pAcheurs pcheurs (Rousbraou sillon); bouillabaisse bouillabaisse Catalane Catalane (which (which is is nothing nothing like like the the sillon); bouillabaisse of of Marseille'1; Marseille); soupe soupe aux aux poissons de Site Ste (fish poissons de bouillabaisse soup); soupe soupe aux aux clovisses clovisses (cockle (cockle soup); soup); soupe soupe d l'ail l'ail (garlic soup); soup); soupe soupe d Ia la courge courge (pumpkin (pumpkin soup); soup); soupe soupe aux aux choux choux soup); soup); soupe soupe oux aux tomates tomates (tomato (tomato soup); soup); tourin; tour in ; (cabbage soup); (cabbage and succulent succulent garbure. garbure. and Among the the hors-d'ouvre hors-d'uvre of of the the area area are: Black Mountain Mountain Among are; Black and Aridge Arige ham; ham; sausages sausages from from Luchon, Luchon, Toulouse, Toulouse, the the and Black Mountain Mountain and and Aridge; Arige; frittons frittons or or grattons grattons of of pork, pork, Black goose and and turkey; turkey; dried dried ftche fiche with with radishes radishes from from Tarn; Tarn; goose melsat from from Dourgne; Dourgne; Ianguettes languettes (little (little tongues) tongues) from from Tarn; Tarn; melsat anchovy pdti pt from from Collioure; Collioure; little !ittle pdtis pts of of P6zenas Pzenas or or anchovy Bziers (which (which are are also also eaten eaten as as a a dessert); dessert); anchoiade; an cho iade ; fresh B6ziers fresh la croque-au-sel; croque-au-sel; fresh fresh figs. figs. white beans beans d la white Among the the special special egg egg dishes dishes of ofLanguedoc Languedoc are: are: Omelettes Omelettes Among Ia la cansaldo; cansaldo; omelettes omelettes with with ham, ham, blood, blood, wild wild asparagus asparagus tips, tips, d hop shoots shoots (called (called omelette omelelle d la la Saint-Jean), Saint-Jean), agaric, agaric, peppers, peppers, hop
546 s46

I-

"

LANGUEDOC, ROUSSILLON, ROUSSILLON, COMTE COMT DE DE FOD( FOIX LANGUEDOC, The land land of ofOc Oc (Languedoc) (Languedoc) is is a a district district which which for for centuries centuries The has had had a a tradition tradition of of fine fine cooking. cooking. Its Its people people have have always always has connoisseurs of of good good food. food. Not Not only only have have they they proprobeen connoisseurs been vided substantial substantial dishes dishes in in abundance, abundance, such such as as the the famous famous vided cassoulet (q.v.) (q.v.) of of Castelnaudary Castelnaudary and and the the daube daube languelanguecassoulet but also also subtly subtly flavoured flavoured and and delicate delicate appetisers appetisers docienne, but docienne, suchas as the thepdti pt defoie defoie gras gras with with truffies, truffies, gem gem of ofthe the LangueLanguesuch docculinary culinary repertoire, repertoire, which which has has made made famous famous throughout throughout doc the world world the the names names of of Toulouse, Toulouse, Cazdres, Cazres, Albi Albi and and other other the citieswhere wherefor for so so long long these these delicacies delicacieshave have been been made. made. cities In Languedoc, Languedoc, the the Roman Roman and and Arab Arab influences influences which which In gradually determined determined the the character character of of its its cooking cooking are are still still gradually

LANGUEDOC
poached or fried eggs with ham, tomatoes, aubergines, garlic; poached
d la cansalado. cansalado, fried eggs fried are made made from saltwater and The following dishes are and freshwater fish, kinds, snails and frogs: all kinds, water fish, shellfish of ail frogs: Cod snails and d I'ailloli; ragot ragofit of cod d la h carcassonnaise; carcassonnaise ; cod of cod cod d la persillade l'ailloli; (with parsley); parsley); brandade of cod; cod; cod bouillabaisse; shad (with d on the spit ; la persilhde; persillade .. stuffed shad on . lamprey en en matelote; matelote; d la catalane, tunny (tuna) fish catalane, with with olives olives or fricandeau of tunny fish fricandeau (tuna) tunny (tuna) d la palavasienne; river iver with anchovy; chopped tunny d la meunire; meuniire; river trout in court-bouillon; court-bouillon; small small fry trout fry in court-bouillon; Eel d la catalane; elver court-bouillon; fry; pike on elver fry; on the spit; matelotes of various freshwater civet of spiny sptny lobster freshwater fuh; fish; civet matelotes (Roussillon) ; freshwater crayfish in in court-bouillon; court-bouillon; mussels mussels (Roussillon); freshwater crayfish d la la ravigote; ravigote; mussels mussels d la la catalane; catalane; mussels mussels with with rice; cockles d la la persillade; snails d la la languedocienne, d la persillade; snails cockles d sommeroise; mourguettes mourguettes lodivoise, d la narbonnaise, d la sommeroise; lodvoise, h meridionale; meridiotule; frogs d la persillade. la frogs legs Here are meat, poultry and game dishes of Here poultry and are sorne the meat, some of the d l'albigeoise, l'albigeoise, d la carcassonnaise; carcassonnaise ; Languedoc: Daube ofbeef of beef Languedoc: of estouffat estouffat of of beef beef d la catalane; veal slices with agaric; roll of ragofit of of veal with olives; olives ; veal en persillade; ragot m papillote; veal en persillade; veal with with sa salsify; ls ify ; pistache of mutton; gasconchump end of veal salsify; ragofit of of mutton; braised of mutton with sais nadc of ify ; ragot nade braised leg of of with white beans; beans; leg of of mutton with garlic; Luchon mutton with lamb d la Ia persillade; salted ewe .. Toulouse persillade; blanewe; Toulovse quarter of lamb quette of lamb; cutlets of milk-fed lamb leg of lamb en m culotte; leg quette ribs of pork lamb with with agaric; galimaufry of pork; d la lamb pork; ribs pork persillade; ribs Iumbet of pork with ribs of pork en en papillotes; lumbet potatoes, cassoulets from Carcassonne, Carcassonne, Castelnaudary and Toulouse; estoufat of white white beans beans from from Carcassonne; sucking pig with saupiquet ariigeois (with white beans); beans); roast sucking piglet skins; I'albigeoise; tripe lripe d la mode mode narbonnaise; narbonnaise; skins; tripe d l'albigeoise; (H6rault); manouis (Hrault); (H6rault); tripe "vith with saffron; sffion; cabassols (Hrault); cabassols petarran Luchon; lamb's lamb's pluck d la la languedocienne; pluck petarram of of Luchon;
pine pine kernels, garlic, tomatoes and Quercy poached or Quercy truffies; poached

with olives; head with lamb's sweetbread pie with with salsify; calf s head sweetbread pie calf s brain en calfs m papillote; veal kidneys d la catalane. agaric, salsify, poultry pie pie .with with agaric, Fricasse of Fricasste of chicken; chicken; poultry truffied capon; capon; stuffed chicken.. chicken; truffled mushrooms and truffles.. truffies; stuffed mushrooms and (stuffed with with sa sausage, olives, la carcassonnaise (stuffed usage, olives, capon capon d la chicken livers, the neck stuffed with garlic bread, roasted on turkey with with olives olives; truffied young turkey; young turkey the .. the spit); spit); truffled of duck; pigeon d duck with olives; salmi of duck d la bigarade; duck goose in blood; blood; go ose with la la catalane; compte of of pigeon; pigeon in salmi of gainea fowl ; 'salmiofguineafowl; chestnuts; ragofit of goose with celery ; goose; sanguette of chicken chicken;; a/icuit aliait of chicken, turkey and goose; or sailAed with garlic and olives, or turkey turkey livers with with capers, olives, trufies, capers, grapes truffles, duck or goose with capers, lemon; foie gras of lemon; foie of duck wine, in pies, pies, charcoal-grilled, potted; Toulouse, Frontignan wine, Cazres pts de foie foie gras with truffies;. pickled and Luchon Luchon pdtds Cazdres and goose and duck; partrrdge la catalane; salmi of partridge; d la goose partridge

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of Languedoe Languedoc Gastronomic map of Gastronomie

547

LANGUEDOCIENNE LANGUEDOCIENNE (A ( LA)

partridge partridge with cabbage; cabbage; salmi of of larks larks; ; larks en caisse; small birds baked baked in a a pie; pie; bunting bunt ing en caisse; caisse; salmi salmi of of thrush; teal teal d la bigarade; hare au of hare; civet of izard au saupiquet; civet of (Pyrenean goat); pdtd (Pyrenean mountain goat); pt of ofyoung young rabbit with truffies truffles; ; hare hare pdti. pt. The sweets and The vegetable vegetable dishes, dishes, sweets and preserves preserves made made in Languedoc Gratin of Languedoc include: include: Gratin of tomatoes tomatoes and and aubergines aubergines; ; aubergine agarics sautied sauted with garlic; garlic; aubergine stuffed stuffed d la catalane; agarics cipes persillade; green green peas peas with ham; ham; salsify sais ify deep-fried cpes d la persillade; with with sugar; sugar; stuffed stuffed cabbage, cabbage, green green cabbage cabbage saufted sauted and stewed; stewed; French French beans beans with tomato tomato sauce. sauce. BiscuitsfromB6darieux; honey uoquelles croquettes from from Narbonne Narbonne;; Biscuits from Bdarieux; honey grape tart; touron from from Limoux; Montpellier Montpellier pie; Limoux from Limoux; from cake; cake; dry dry pepper pepper cakes cakes from Limoux; Alleluias Alleluias from and janots from Albi; Albi; flaky Castelnaudary; ring-biscuits ring-biscuits and janots from fiaky Castelnaudary; pastry and and rauzel from from Carcassonne; Carcassonne; flaunes fia unes or or flauzonnes fiauzonnes from from from Loddve; Lodve; heartcakes heartcakes from from Tarn; bras de de Venus Venus from Narbonne; pancakes pancakes; oreillettes ('rabbits ('rabbits ears'); ears'); pickled pickled ; oreillettes plums plums; crystallisedfruit Carcassonne. ; crystallised fruit from Carcassonne. Wines - The province of Languedoc is is very large large and covers covers several wine-producing wine-producing areas. areas. C6tes du Rh6ne. Rhne. The best-known best-known vineyards of the norCtes dt thern part of this area are situated on the right bank of the Rh6ne Rhne (opposite (opposite Valence Valence and and Tain-L'Hermitage) Tain-L'Hermitage) in in the dipartement dpartement of Arddche. Ardche. This is is where the white and and red wines of Saint-Joseph Saint-Joseph and the red wines of Cornas are proproduced. duced. The Saint-P6ray Saint-Pray white white wines, also from this area, are made into excellent sparkling wines following the mtthode mthode champenoise. champenoise. The appellations of of the southern part of the right bank of the the Cdtes Ctes du Rh6ne Rhne are situated situated in the dipartement dpartement of of Gard. Gard. This This is is the the home home of of the the dry, dry, fruity fruit y ros6s ross of Tavel Tavel and Chusclan, the red red and rose ros wines of Lirac, and the red red and white white wines wines of of Laudun. Laudun. Another exceptional exceptional wine produced here is the V D.Q.S. Costiires Costires &t du Gard. Gard. Aude Aude and and Hirault. Hrault. Besides Besides a a large large production production of of vin ordinaire, Aude produces the the excellent excellent red red wines win es Fitou, ordinaire, Aude Corbibres Corbires and and Minervois; Minervois; also also a a sparkling wine wine called Blanquette Blanquette de Limoux. A famous Muscat Muscat wine wine is is produced produced in in the A very very fine fine famous dipartemenr dpartement of of H6rault Hrault in Frontignan. Frontignan. Eastern Pyrenees. This dipartement dpartement is the home of such great dessert wines wines as Rivesaltes Rivesaltes and Muscat Muscat de Rivesaltes, Rivesaltes, Banyuls Banyuls Grand Cru, Maury, C6tes Ctes d'Agly d'Agly and and Banyuls and Banyuls Grand Roussillon. Roussillon. Gaillac Gaillac wine, from the dipartement dpartement of of Tarn, Tarn, can be be drunk as as a still or sparkling sparkling wine.

liquid part will be very very clear and will give offno off no more steam. through a very very fine strainer As soon as it is ready, strain through strainer or close woven woven cloth. clotho Put Put into pots, pots, which should be be filled to the close top. When When the the fat fat is is completely completely set, set, cover cover the the pots pots with top. paper, tie with string, and put them in a cool, dry place. The lard will keep for several months. After the melting melting process is complete the strained strained pork fat After leaves a a residue that that is is considered very good good to to eat in the
districts districts of of France France where where lard is used. fat) - The fat fat of pork lying between between the Lard gras (pork faQ skin and the flesh fiesh which is found found all ail along the chine. chine. fat, usually usuaUy eaten eaten fresh, fresh, is is in in two two layers. layers. The first This fat, layer, next to the flesh, fiesh, is used used chiefly chiefiy in the preparalayer, which is next of lard. It is called caUed melting melting fat. The second layer, layer, next next to tion of melts less readily. It is used in various various the skin, is firmer and melts butchery and also for barding. It is known as ways in pork butchery hard fat. - This is the fat fat of the pig's belly, belly, streaked Lard maigre streaked smoked. with muscular tissue. It can be salted or smoked. In ln France France this this fat is usually usually eaten fresh fresh but in England and in U.S.A. U .S.A. it is smoked and known as as bacon. bacon, or salted and known as salt pork.

LARDING.

LARDER LARDER -

meat. This fat should be white, firm and dry. In summer it if possible, be kept on ice before being cut into larmust, if doons. The purpose for which the lardoons lardoons are used deterdetermines their length length and thickness. thickness. mines their To To make make them, them, first first cut cut the the fat fat into into rectangular rectangular slabs. measured across, these these slabs slabs should correspond to the When measured desired desired length of of the lardoons. lardoons. fiat on a table, skin downwards. downwards. Slice the Lay these slabs flat With the flat fiat of of the knife knife smooth the surface surface of of the evenly. With fat evenly. fat, and slice horizontally horizontally to obtain obtain the lardoons. lardoons. They must be kept in a cool place until they are needed. Larding needles needles of different thicknesses thicknesses are are available for threading threading the lardoons lardoons into into the meat. meat.

large cuts of of meat, by by means of of a larding larding needle. ness into large ness Larding fat. lnno LARD A uqurn PIQUER - Pork Pork fat used used for for interlarding interlarding Larding

Threading lardoons lardoons of of varying varying thick- Threading

LANGUEDOCEI\NE LANGUEDOCIENNE (A ( LA)-Name LA) - Name given given to to a number number of different dishes mostly served with a garnish of tomatoes, tomatoes,
aubergines and cipes. cpes. The sauce sauce served served with with dishes dishes prepared prepared d Ia la languedocienne languedocienne is flavoured fiavoured with garlic. garlic.
Larding Larding needles needles (Coutellerie (Coutellerie Andrd) Andr)

LAPWING. VANNEAU VANNEAU - Bird Bird of of passage with crested head, head, considered considered very good to eat. Its eggs are much mu ch sought after. The lapwing lapwing is is cooked like plover plover (q.v.). (q.v.). LARD. sArNDoux SAINDOUX - Cooking fat obtained obtained from the melting melting down down of pork pork fat. fat. This This fat, fat, well weil prepared prepared and and free free from impurities, impurities, is is excellent and in in certain regions of France, France, notably notably the the south-west, is is used in place place of butter or oil for the the greater part part oftheir of their culinary preparations. preparations. Preparation Preparation. Cut Cut the the fat fat in very very small small pieces pieces and and put put it in a deep pot pot with I 1 dl. (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant f t cup) water water per per
500 500 g. g. (l (1 lb.) fat. fat.

LARDING NEEDLE. LARDoIRE LARDOIRE - Implement used used for LARDING larding cuts of of meat, poultry poultry and game.
- Strips of larding fat of varying varying lengths and thicknesses, thicknesses, threaded into meat, meat, poultry and and game game by by means of of a larding needle. needle. In ln French. French, the the name name lardon is also also used for blanched and and fried diced bacon which is added to certain certain dishes such as as hare, beef etc., and to ofhare, beefd la la bourguignonne bourguignonne etc., to a number number of civet of civet garnishes. garnishes. LARDONS LARDOONS. rlnpous

LARK.

ALoUETTE, ALOUETTE, MAUvmrrE MAUVIETTE - Bird, of which numerous numerous

Start cooking over a good good heat, heat, stirring stirring with a wooden wooden spoon, then then cook over a gentle but but sustained heat, heat, stirring stirring often, ofte n, until the the fat is completely completely melted. melted. At this this point point the pieces pieces of of pork pork fat will appear well weil fried and and crisp, crisp, while while the the
548 548

known, including including the calandra and crested crested lark. species are known, The lark has has a very very delicate flesh fiesh but, but, in some sorne countries, countries, it

is in great great demand more more as as an an aviary bird bird than than as as food, food,
of its its varied varied and harmonious harmonious song. because of because

LEAF LEAF
In France, France, larks larks are eagerly eagerly sougbt sought for the preparation preparation of lark lark pdt6, pt, greatly greatly esteemed by gastronomes. gastronomes. it belongs Although Although the the lark lark is is found found in Asia and in Africa, il belongs more to northern northem parts of Europe. Europe. Larks abound abound in in Promore vence, vence, in in Languedoc, Languedoc, in in the the plains plains of of Champagne and Burgundy, Burgundy, as well weil as in the steppes of southem Russia. when asmauviette mauviette when France, the lark is always always referred to as In France, savoury bird was it is used used for the the table. In former former times times this savoury mala avis, mauvis, which which derives derives from from the the Latin Latin mala called mauvis, called the qualification meaning bad bad bird. bird. It is is strange that the meaning strange that mauvais (bad) should have been applied to a bird which is so mauvais delicate to eat. FEMME A LA BONNE roNNr FEMMELarks i la bonre bonne femme. MAUvIETTEs MAUVIETIES Larks d la as Thrushes in a a casserole in the same way way as in the Prepared in femme (see TH RUSH). bonne femme THRUSH). bonne Larks in breadcrust. breadcrust. MAUVIETTEs MAUVIETIES EN CROTE cRoOrE Larks - Slit the birds a piece of them. Stuff them with with a along the back and and bone them. piece of a piece in a foie gras about the size of a nut. Pres Press in a small nut. about the foie in a truffie. Fold Fold the the birds birds back back into Place them them in a into shape. shape. Place truffie. one against against tbe the buttered casserole, casserole, pressing pressing them closely one them closely buttered other so that they keep their shape in cooking. Season. Pour on melted butter. Cook for 5 minutes in a very hot oven. and butter the round loaf and out a a round Scoop out larks. Scoop Drain the larks. (see FORCEMEAT). forcemeat (see FORCEMEAT). d gratin forcemeat inside. Line with Brown in Put the finish and finish larks in crust and in tbe the crust Brown in the oven. Put the larks the oven. them a a for 8 minutes. Pour over them in the oven oven for cooking them in Demi-glace concentrated Demi-glace few tablespoons Madeira-flavoured concentrated tablespoons Madeira-flavoured sauce (see SAUCE). dish covered covered with with a on a a dish a the 'pie' on Put the sauce SAUCE). Put napkin, napkin, and serve. serve. Larks en as for for EN CAISSES cAIssEs MAUvIETTEs EN en caisses. MAUVIETIES - Proceed as Thrushes (see THRUSH). Thrushes en en caisses (see Larks larks A LA unurs -- Slit Slit the larks MAUvIETTES u MINUTE Larks i la minute. minute. MAUVIETTES along the back. Open gently. Season flatten them Season with and flatten them gently. Open and the back. salt pan, using quickly in pepper. Fry in a a frying frying pan, using best Fry quickly and pepper. salt and butter. Place each in butter, and and of bread fried in a slice of each bird on a (see serve. Demi-glace sauce (see and Demi-glace a little liqueur brandy and serve. Pour a SAUCE) larks. over the larks. sauce over SAUCE) into the pan and stir. Pour this sauce pArB FROID Lark pt, pf,te, cold. Made with with FRorD DE DE MAUVIETTES MAUvIETTES -- Made cold. PT boned pdti as cold way as cold Partridge pt larks stuffed in the the same same way boned larks stuffed in (see PT). PATE). pArn CHAUD Lark pt, Made with with p0t6, hot. DE MAUVIETTES MAUVIETTTs -- Made cHAUD DE hot. PT boned gras and in the and truffies, the same same with foie truffies, in larks stuffed boned larks stuffed with foie gras way as (se PT). pdti (see hot Quai! PATE). as hot Quail pt pdlroNrAlsE Larks la pi6montaise. MAUVIETTES A LA PIMONTAISE rrHwtETrEs la pimontaise. Stuff (see gratin forcemeat piece of of d gratin with a a piece each lark lark with Stuff each forcemeat (see FORCEMEAT) quickly nut. Cook of a a smaU Cook quickly small nut. FORCEMEAT) about about the size size of in sb on dish on a a bed bed of of a deep deep earthenware earthenware di in a in butter. butter. Serve Serve in polenta (q.v.) (q.v.) made down into into Press the birds down cheese. Press the birds with cheese. made with the for in the oven for pour on and bake bake in the oven melted butter on melted butter and the polenta, pour 5 game stock few tablespoons of game stock with a a few tablespoons of 5 minutes. Sprinkle Sprinkle with flavoured with Marsala. Marsala. ptur DE Pilaf Cook the larks the larks DE MAUVIETTES MAUvIETTeS - Cook Pilaf of of larks. larks. PILAF quickly on a a bed bed of of Rice Rice quickly in in a a circle circle on in butter. Arrange Arrange them them in pilaf game essence (see PILAF). of game essence pilaf (see a few few tablespoons PILAF). Pour Pour a tablespoons of flavoured Madeira over over tbem. them. flavoured with with Madeira Larks with Proceed as as for for AU RISOTTO Rlsorro -- Proceed tvtluvnrrEs AU with risotto. MAUVIETTES Pilaf (see RICE). Risotto (see RICE). larks on on a a bed of Risotto Pilaf of larks. Serve bed of of larks. Serve the the larks

It

flan Latticed apple apple flan Latticed

pastry Flan or or tart tart pastry or TART. TART. GRILL cnItl6 -- Flan LATIICED FLAN or covered with with or other other filling, filling, covered fruit, cream cream or filled with with fruit, shell filled shell pastry. of pastry. strips of narrow criss-cross strips

BYOF BYRESTAURANTS OF LE PRE PERE -_ See See RESTAURANTS LATUILLE, LE LATIJILLE, GONE DAYS. GONE
great chef in the who lived lived in the seventeenth seventeenth VARENI{E -- A A great chef who LA VARENNE LA minion or or as kitchen kitchen minion his career career as Varenne began began bis century. century. La La Varenne Henry of Henry Bar, sister sister of de Bar, Duchesse de home of of the the Duchesse marmiton in the home marmitonin IV IV of of France. pot', observobserv'poule au au pot', legendary 'poule Tbe of the the legendary author of The King, King, author with him with entrusted him lad, entrusted a bright ing bright lad, was a Varenne was La Varenne ing that that La result of of a result As a heart. As the heart. of the an affair affair of certain in an negotiations in ceitain negotiations remarked Duchess remarked the Duchess great fortune that the fortune that this, a great he made such such a this, he carrying by carrying 'You have better by have done done better jestingly to jestingly day: 'You one day: him one to bim larding (amorous notes) than by larding notes) th my an by "poulets" (amorous my brother's brother's "poulets" mine'. mine'. was He was a chef. chef. He great talents as a But But La La Varenne Varenne also also had had great talents as planned books on books on the first systematicaUy systematically planned of the the first author of the author rare, but but are now now rare, cookery These books books are and confectionery. confectionery. These cookery and recipes and contain contain recipes they for centuries centuries and consulted for they have have been been consulted /e titles: le Here are are their their titles: which today. Here be used used today. which can can still still be (first edition 1653); le le Confiturier Confiturier franais Ptissier edition 1653); Pdtissier franais frangais frangais (first (first edition published by by 1651, published (1664); le franais (first (1664); edition 1651, le Cuisinier Cuisinierfrangais and Pierre virtually unobtainable); unobtainable); and now virtually Lyons, now at Lyons, Pierre David David at (published at Carnier l'cole at Lyons Lyons by by Jacques Jacques Carnier des ragots ragofits (publisbed I'Ecole des in in 1725). 1725).
deep very deep found in in very LA V ARET -- Fish family found Fish of of tbe the salmon salmon family LAVARET periodically lakes. which periodically lavarets which There are are also also saltwater saltwater lavarets lakes. There Le Lake Le run is that that of of Lake after is The most most sougbt sought after run to rivers. The to the the rivers. Bourget. Bourget. river trout and This for river trout and All recipes recipes for delicate. Ali very delicate. This fish is very fish is (See TROUT.) salmon TROUT.) lavaret. (See for lavaret. trout are are suitable suitable for salmon trout are LAYON. vineyards of of Anjou Anjou are The vineyards DU LAYON LAyoN -- Tbe LAYON. COTEAUX corEAUX DU to white wines wines of of of the the best best white Some of these slopes. found on on these slopes. Sorne to be be found the vineyards on on from the the vineyards come from dipartemenl come Maine-et-Loire dpartement the Maine-et-Loire these the Layon river. Layon river. right bank ofthe the right bank of these slopes on the slopes on green. LEAF. plants, usually and green. part of flat and usuallyfiat Aerial part of plants, rrunre -- Aerial LEAF. FEUILLE A y 1eaves great man leaves are are edible. edible. A great many Vine leaves have have vine leaves vIGNE - - Young Young vine DE VIGNE FEUILLES DE Vine leaves. leaves. FEUILLES (quail game (quail various to wrap wrap game They are are used used to various uses in cookery. cookery. They uses in and pork orpork of bacon bacon or partridges especially) with strips stripsof along with especially) along and partridges fat.. fat.. Turkish (balls of in are wrapped wrapped in rice)are meat and and rice) of meat Turkish dolmas dolmas (balls vine vine leaves. leaves. Young make to make used to leaves are are sometimes sometimes used vine leaves Young tender tender vine fritters, green salads. to green salads. and added added to fritters, or or finely finely chopped chopped and Vine arrangements indecorative decorative arrangements leaves may may also also be be used usedin Vine 1eaves of fresh fruit. fruit. of fresh

LARUE YS. BYGONE DA DAYS. RESTAURANTS OF OF BYGONE LARUE -_ See See RESTAURANTS LASAGNE. pasta cut in the of wide cut in Italian pasta the shape shape ofwide LAzAGNE- Italian IASAGNE. LAZAGNEribbons. (q.v.). as macaroni macaroni (q.v.). in the way as ribbons. It It is is cooked cooked in the same same way LATEX umber of plants. The latex of number of plants. The latex of LATEX -- The The milky milky sap of a an sap of the galactodendron of and used in is drunk drunk and used in of Columbia Columbia is the galactodendron cooking as milk. milk. cooking in in the way as the same same way LA TOUR (Chteau) (Chflteau) -- One great wines wines of of BorBorfive great One of of the the five LATOLIR deaux (Paulliac-M6doc). deaux (Paulliac-Mdoc).

549 549

LEAF CHERVIL CHERVIL LEAF

pLUcHEs DE LEAF CHERVIL. CIIERVIL. PLUCHES DE CERFEUIL cERFEUTL -- See See GARGARLEAF NISHES, Chervi/ Chervil leaves. leaves. NISHES,

LEAKAGE. COULAGE couLAcELoss ofliquor from a of liquor from a cask. cask. - Loss LEAKAGE.

LEAVEN. LEVATN -- Sour paste which Sour wheat wheat paste which has has begun begun to to LEA VEN. LEVAIN ferment and and which is in which is in a a fit fit state state to to induce induce fermentation, fermentation, and and ferment thus cause cause kneaded kneaded dough dough to to rise. rise. The The term term leaven leaven is is often often thus (brewer's yeast). instead of used instead of barm yeast). barm (brewer's used LEBERKNODEI,N (Hungarian (Hungarian cookery) cookery) -- See See SOUPS SOUPS LEBERKNDELN AND BROTHS. BROTHS. AND
(Hungarian cookery) LEBER-SUPPE (Hungarian cookery) -- See See SOUPS SOUPS AND AND LEBER-SUPPE BROTHS. BROTHS.

Bunch Bunch
ofleeks ofleeks (Kollar'1 (Kollar)

LECITHIN. LCITHINE rfctrnNs -- Fat Fat containing phosphorus which containing phosphorus which LECITHIN. yolks, brain, etc. is found in in egg egg yolks, etc. is

pdtisserie) Leckerli (Swiss ptisserie) Leckerli

(12 oz., 350 g. (12 oz., 1 I cup) honey, 500 g. (18 oz., 500 g. 4! cups) o2.,4| cups) sieved c,.rp) chopped fresh i- cup) fresh almonds, almonds, 50 50 g. (2 oz., * t cup) chopped candied candied. lemon or orange peel, 1 orange peel, I teatei(l oz., i spoon of soda, 25 g. (1 spoon bicarbonate bicarbonate of f, cup) spices (ground cloves, nutmeg and ginger). c1oves, nutmeg

(Swiss pfftisserie) LECKERLI Type of LECKERLI (Swiss ptisserie) of spiced spiced biscuit, - Type rectangular in shape and about (* inch) thick. about 1 I cm. cm. (t (5 oz., g. (5 Ingredients. 150 g. generous t oz., generous Ingredients. 150 cup) fine fine sugar, * cup)

flour, oz., 25 g. g. (l (1 oz., flour, 25

Method. Arrange flour in a ring on the table. Put the Arrange the floUf

Put Put the the mixture in in rectangles rectangles on on well-buttered baking well-buttered baking trays. Bake Bake in the oven. oyen. Cut Cut into small rectangles rectangles and brush with milk milk just before before taking out of of the oven. oyen.
LEEK. FoTREAU POIREAU - Hardy biennial biennial plan! plant, the origins origins of which LEEK. go back back a very long long way, which has never never been found found in its wild wild state state and and is is believed be1ieved to to be be a a cultivated cultivated variety variety of oriental garlic. garlic. The Egyptians Egyptians held held the leek in great esteem, as as did did the Romans. Nero Nero had leek soup served to him every day. The Romans. Romans attributed to leeks the property of imparting and Romans keeping up up the sonority of the voice, and it is is known that keeping Nero was was anxious to have a clear c1ear and and sonorous voice for Nero delivering his his orations. brations. delivering The leek leek has has little nutritional nutritional value value apart apart from being rich The in Vitamin Vitamin C and and containing containing a a variety variety of of mineral mineraI salts and a a in little iron. iron. Leekbouillon Leek bouillon is a diuretic. diuretic. little 550

honey of the ring ring and work with a spatula. honey in the centre centre of spatula. Add all aIl the other other ingredients and knead knead weIl. well.

planl which This plant, which is is mainly This mainly used used as as a a ftavouring flavouring for for the the stockpot or or an an ingredient ingredient of stockpot of home-made home-made soups, soups, can can also also be be prepared in in various various ways prepared ways as as a a vegetable. vegetable. porREAUx I*eks i la Ia bchamel. bechamel. POIREAUX Leeks A LA r,l BCHAMEL ntcnerusr, -- Trim the Trim the leeks, leaving leaving oruy only the part. Parboil leeks, the white white part. Parboil for for 5 5 minutes minutes in in salted water, water, and salted and drain. drain. Cook Cook in in butter and arrange butter and arrange in in aa timbale or or dish. dish. timbale (see SAUCE.) Coyer Cover with with not not too thick Bchamel Bichamel sauce too thick sauce (see SAUCE.) porREAux Boiled leeks. leeks. POIREAUX Boiled A L'ANGLAISE r,'Ar.rcr,Arso -- Trim Trim off off the the roots roots leeks and greater part of the the leeks part of of and the the greater green ends, of the the green leaving ends, leaving part. Take only the the white only white part. Take off off the the outside outside skin skin and and wash wash the the leeks. Tie Tie them leeks. in boiling them in in bunches like asparagus bunches like asparagus and and cook cookin boiling salted salted water. water. Drain Drain and and dry dry them, them, serve folded napkin napkin or serve on on a a folded in aa or in perforated asparagus asparagus dish. dish. Garnish parsley. Serve Garnish with with fresh fresh parsley. Serve with melted melted butter. butter. ponnlux BRAISS Braised leeks. leeks. POIREAUX nnusfs -Trim Trim 12 12 large large leeks, leeks, leaving leaving only part. Cut only the the white white part. into Cut into pieces and put into pieces and put into a pan in a saut saut6 pan in which which 3 3 tablespoons tablespoons (scant * cup) (scant cup) butter butter have been been heated. heated. Season Season with with salt and salt and pepper. (6 tablespoons) pepper. Moisten with 5 5 tablespoons Moisten with tablespoons (6 tablespoons) water, water, coyer pan and cover the the pan and simmer simmer for for about minutes. Put 40 minutes. about 40 Put the the leeks into a a vegetable dish. dish. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with the the braising braising liquor liquor to which an an extra tablespoon of of butter has been butter has been added. added. Alternatively, the the leeks can moistened with with c1ear can be clear meat meat be moistened stock stock instead instead of water. porREAUx AU Leeks Leeks with with melted melted butter butter or on other other sauces. sauoes. POIREAUX AU BEURRE BEURRE FONDU FoNDU -- Boil in in water and serve with with melted and serve melted butter butter or any any other other sauce, sauce, such such as as Cream, Crearn, Hollandaise, Hollandaise, Mousseline, Mousseline, (see SAUCE). Vinaigrette (see SAUCE). porREAr.rr( Leeks Leks la creme. I la creme. POIREAUX A, LA cniMe -- Put Put the L.a, CRME the white part of the leeks into a pan. Season ofthe a buttered saut Season and saut6 pan. and cook cook gently gently for for 15 15 minutes minutes with with a a lid lid on. on. Moisten Moisten with with fresh fresh cream, cream, covering gently for covering the leeks. Simmer gently the leeks. for 30 30 minutes with the lid on the pan. pan. Put into a a vegetable dish. Add a few dish. Add a few tablespoons juices and panjuices tablespoons fresh cream to the pan and pour over the the leeks. ponuAtx EN Deep-fried Deep,fried leeks. leeks, POIREAUX FRrror -- Trim EN FRlTaT Trim the the leeks, leaving leaving only the white part, and cut this this into pieces. Marinate juice, salt for for 30 in oil, lemon juice, pepper, then minutes in 30 minutes oil, lemon and pepper, salt and then parboil in salted water for 8 8 minutes. Dip Dip in in a light batter a light fry ln and fry batter and in smoking smoking hot hot deep deep fat. fat. When the leeks become golden and and crisp, drain drain them, dry, them, dry, season arrange in a season with fine salt, arrange a heap on a a folded napkin or on a paper doyley, and garnish with fried fried parsley. poIREAux AU Leeks au AU GRATIN au gratin. POrREAUX Trim the GRATTN leeks, the leeks, - Trim leaving only the the white part. Parboil Parboil in salted salted water and and cook gently in butter in a pan. Put into a a covered covered saut saut6 pan. a buttered ovenproof (Parmesan, for ovenproof dish, sprinkle sprinkle with grated cheese cheese (Parmesan, for preference), pour over sorne some melted butter, and and brown brown in in a a oyen or under a slow oven a low grill. Leeks i la grecque. porREArrx POIREAUX A LA White part r,.l GRECQUE cnrceur - White the leeks leeks cooked in a a court-bouillon (q.v.) consisting of of the court-bouillon (q.v.) of

LEMON LEMON
water, oil oil and and lemon lemon juice, juice, spiced spiced with with coriander. coriander. (See (See water,
euvre.) HORS-D'UVRE, Cold Cold hors-d' hors-d'uvre.) HORS-D'(EUVRE, LeeksMornay. poIREALrx POIREAUX MoRNAY MORNAY - Cook the white white part LeeksMornay. of the the leeks leeks in butter. butter. Put them them into a fireproof fireproof dish dish on a of layer of Mornay souce sauce (see SAUCE). Sprinkle Sprinkle with grated layer cheese and and melted melted butter butter and and brown brown in the oven. oyen. cheese Velout or cream cream of of leek. wtour6, VELOUT, cniMe CRME DE DE PoIREAUX POIREAUX Velout6 Recipes for these soups soups will be found in the section entitled entitled Recipes SOUPS AND BROTHS. SOUPS Leeks I la vinaigrette. poIREAux POIREAUX A re LA vmltcnnrre VINAIGRETTE - Cook Leeks the white parts of the leeks in salted salted water. Drain and dry hors-d'uvre dish dish and season season with oil, them, arrange in an hors-d'euvre pepper. vinegar, salt and pepper. of 24 24 skins of cIrRoN coNFITURE DE Lemon Lemon jam. jam. CONFITURE DE CITRON the skins - Blanch the up Chop up them. Chop drain them. lemons. lemons. When When they they are are half ha If cooked drain the Cut the a sieve. sieve. Cut through a and rub them through half ha If the lemon skins and with and moisten moisten with rest into thin strips. Mix Mix these ingredients and in equal in of sugar sugar equal amount of an amount the juice juice of 8 lemons. Add Add an pan in in the same the same a copper pan weight to the lemon skins. Cook in a way as other other jams. jams. MANQUE. See MANQU. AU CITRON cIrRoN - See M,c,I.rQut AU manqu6. MANQU Lemon manqu. diced and add add diced mixture and for the the mixture sugar for lemon-flavoured sugar Use lemon-flavoured Use it. essence to it. teaspoon lemon essence or j teaspoon crystallised citron or! it comcomou! mask mask it and tumed turned out, is baked baked and manqui is When the manqu When Frost until stiff. stiff. Frost sugar until pletely with egg whites whisked with sugar Dry in in the the nuts on on top. top. Dry icing sugar. sugar. Sprinkle pistachio nuts with icing brown. oven but do not brown. oyen (clrnoucoNFITE (CITRONDE CITRON cITRoN CONFITE fconcr DE Preserved lemon peel. CORCE peel, from from which which the the lemon peel, pieces of fresh lemon of fresh Blanch pieces Nlr) - Blanch NAT) is used. zest is used. only the the zest In this way only removed. In this way pith has has been been removed. pith (q.v.). night Leave aIl all night syrup (q. Drain the pieces and put them in syrup v.). Leave the syrup. in the it until it peel and the syrup syrup until and cook cook the day take out the the peel take out Next day Next in a a it drops drops in or until until it 25o on on the the saccharometer saccharometer or measures 25 peel. Leave Leave to to soak soak the peel. Put back back the spoon. Put thread from the spoon. short short thread for several several operation for repeat the operation and repeat overnight again and in in syrup syrup ovemight point of of last time to the the point time to for the the last the syrup syrup for days, days, cooking cooking the crystallisation. crystallisation. 12 fine fine zest of of 12 Soak the the zest DE CITRON cITRoN -- Soak slRop DE Lemon Lemon syrup. syrup. SIROP (lf pints, juice. Prepare generous pints, generous I litre litre (li Prepare 1 own juice. lem ons in lemons in their their own the saccharometer. 36" on on the saccharometer. quart) hot measuring 36 quart) hot sugar syrup measuring sugar syrup juice and days. for 5 5 to to 6 6 days. Leave for syrup. Leave zest to to this this syrup. Add and zest Add the the juice Filter. Filter. flavour is used to flavour This is used to DE CITRON cITRoN - This Lemon zEsrs DE Lemon zest. zest ZESTE grating the the skin skin preparations for for sweets by grating sweets by creams other preparations and other creams and with impregnated with becomes impregnated The sugar sugar becomes with a lump lump of of sugar. sugar. The with a put in mixture to to in the the mixture and is is then then put lemon and of the the lemon the tial oil essential oil of the essen be flavoured. be flavoured. in zest and and used used in lemon zest with lemon flavoured with Milk also be be flavoured Milk can can also flavour used to to flavour is used which is creams The zest zest which creams and and custards. custards. The prepared in in this way: preparations is is prepared this way: certain certain culinary culinary preparations knife. fruit with with aa sharp sharp knife. from the the fruit Remove zest from Remove the the zest put, chop zest chop the the zest it is is to to be be put, to which which it According According to to the the use use to ln the latter case, case, blanch blanch the the the latter finely, it into into fine fine strips. strips. In or slice slice it finely, or julienne, drain it. lem on julienne, and dry dry it. lemon drain and

LEFT-OVERS. nrsrss RESTES - Sometimes Sometimes foodstuffs are served in LEFT-OVERS. at a example, they will be be served at large quantity when, for example, subsequent meal as co Id meat. meat. It is done with roast meat or cold subsequent or braised braised meat mode, for for example), example), la mode, poultry or d la meat (boeuf when it it is intended to reheat reheat these these meats to serve them again. when LEGUMIN. rfcuraNs LGUMINE Proteid substance substance resembling LEGLTMIN. - Proteid casein in pulses (peas, beans, less well lentils). It is is less beans, lentils). found in casein found assimilated than animal protein, protein, and combines to combines with chalk to assimilated forro insoluble deposit. For this reason pulses cannot be be form an insoluble satisfactorily satisfactorily cooked in hard water.

Lemons a branch Lcmons on on a

LEMON. very acid acid and and lemon tree, tree, very Fruit of of the cITRoN -- Fruit the lemon LEMON. CITRON highly grows now grows India, but from India, but now It originally came from highly scented. originally came scented. It out in region and and extensively extensively in in the Mediterranean region out of of doors doors in the Mediterranean Califomia, U.S.A. California, U.S.A. The juice and in cooking cooking to to lemons are are used used in zest of of lemons The juice and the the zest flavour Various dishes. Various a large large number number of of dishes. and season flavour and season a creams, (the puddings and zest (the with the the zest are flavoured flavoured with and sauces sauces are creams, puddings outside juice is enhance the the part of The juice is used used to to enhance of the the skin). skin). The outside part flavour of certain di shes and and mayonnaise mayonnaise and to dishes season salads salads and to season flavourofcertain instead vinegar. instead of of vinegar. For for bavarois, bavarois, creams, creams, as a a flavouring flavouring for lemon as For the the use use of of lemon mousses, in their their words in puddings, sauces, see these these words sauces, souffls, souffi6q see mousses, puddings, al pha betical order. order. alphabetical The of sorne conlemon is is aa matter matter of someconof the the lemon food value value of The food troversy; it is is rich in in Vitamin Vitamin C Cit exceptionally rich however, being being exceptionally troversy; however, undoubtedly for scurvy. remedy for scurvy. undoubtedly the the specific specific remedy Lemon Lemon costard. c,ream AU CITRON Make aaCustard Custard c.ream custard. CRME cnirr,re AU cITRoN -- Make (see (see CREAMS) with which has has been been boiled boiled with milk which using milk CREAMS) using lemon or silk silk tammy. tammy. a very very fine finestrainer strainer or lemon zest. zest. Pass Pass through through a Lemon proA commercial commercial proDE CITRON cITRoN - - A EssENcE DE Lemon essence. essence. ESSENCE duct pdtissene in place of lemon fresh lemon in place of fresh in cooking and ptisserie cooking and duct used used in juice. juice. It It is is very very concentrated. concentrated.

How slice lemon grooveand Howto togroove and slicea a lemon for garnishing forgarnishing

551 551

LEMONADE LEMONADE
LEMONADE. CITRONNADE, crrnoNrqADE, LIMONADE LMoNADE - Drink Drink consisting consisting LEMONADE. juice, sugar lemon juice, of lemon and water. water. sugar and of Lemonade I. (9oz., I. CITRONNADE crrnoxNl,on - - Dissolve g.(9 Dissolve 250 250g. o2.,2 cups) Lemonade 2 cups) lump sugar in 1 litre litre (li- pints, pints, generous generous quart) sugar in quart) filtered filtered lump juice and water. Add Add the and zest the juice zest of of 22 lernons lemons to to tbe thesyrup. syrup. water. Leave to to infuse infuse for for 33 hours hours in place. in aacool cool place. Leave Strain through through aa fine fine strainer. strainer.A A siphon siphon of of soda sodawater, water, or or Strain fresh water, water, can can be beadded added to to the lemonade. Serve the lemonade. Servecold coldand and fresh put aa slice lemon in glass. of lemon in each each glass. slice of put Lemonade II. IL LIMONADE rruoNloE CUITE currE - Cut lemon into Cut aa lemon into thin thin Lemonade Remove the slices. Remove Infuse for (scant the seeds. seeds. Infuse for 1 I hour hour in! litre (seant in f litre slices. pint,2t (l oz., cups) boiling boiling water. g. (1 water. Add Add 25 25 g. o2.,2 tablespoons) pint, 2* cups) 2 tablespoons) sugar. sugar. Fizry lemonade. lemonade. LIMONADE ranoNlDE GAZEUSE GAzEusE - This This lemonade lemonade is is Fizzy usually artificially artificially made made and and aerated aerated with with carbonic gas, carbonic acid acid gas, usually like manufactured manufactured soda soda water. water. It It is is sold sold in in bottles bottles or or siphons. siphons. like

(lf

Battlebetween between Carme (Lent)and Car6me (Lent) Battle andMardi-Gras Mardi-Gras (from an print) (from ury print) an18th I 8thcent century

Lemon sole sole Lemon

LTMANDE-sore -- The The name lemon lemon sole LEMON SOLE. LIMANDE-SOLE sole is is a a corruption of of the French limande-sole. This the French This fisb corruption fish is is really really a a kind of dab dab but, but, unlike unlike the dab dab and and other other fiat flat fish kind of fish such such as as flounder elongated and oval in flounder and plaice, plaice, it is elongated in shape, shape, and and is is thus somewhat somewhat similar to a a sole in appearance. Some authorities authorities assert assert that lemon sole that lemon Sorne is very very little little sole is quality to the sole, but tbis inferior inferior in quality this opinion is is not not shared shared by who find find this by gastronomes, gastronomes, who this fish fish comparatively comparatively stringy stringy and and tasteless. tasteless. It It corresponds to yel/owtai! fiounder to the the yellowtail in flounder in u.s.A. U.S.A. (q.v.) and All (q.v.) are AlI recipes for brill (q.v.) and sole (q.v.) are suitable for for lemon lem on sole. sole.

LENT. clntus CARME - Forty-day fast fast imposed by by the the Catholic Catholic religion, from Ash Wednesday till tiU Easter. Easter. This period of This period fasting in the the early Church had excellent excellent physical effects by imposing imposing on the digestive system, wom gastronomic worn out by gastronomie excess excess during the the winter season, a much needed needed rest. Brillat-Savarin tell tell us us that that towards towards the tbe middle middle of of the eighteenth century century the normal r6gime rgime in bourgeois families consisted consisted of of four meals: meals:
Breakfast, Breakfast, which which took took place place before before 9 a.m. and consisted of bread, cheese, cheese, fruit, fruit, sometimes a pdtt pt or cold co Id meat. (The bread, habit of drinking coffee had had not yet penetratd penetrated into prohabit vinciallife.) vincial life.) Lunch, Lunch, which which took took place place between between noon and and I 1 p.m., with soup, the the boiled boiled meat meat of of the tbe pot-au-feu, pot-au-feu, and and vegetable vegetable soup, accompaniments according according to to the season. season. accompaniments Around 4 4 p.m. p.m. there there was was a a light light meal meal enjoyed as as a a rule by by Around the ladies ladies of of the the household household and the children. children. the Supper was was at at 8 p.-., p.m., wfih with entrde, entre, roast, roast, side-dishes, side-dishes., Supper saI ad and and dessert. dessert. salad During Lent Lent breakfast breakfast was was omitted, omitted, meat meat was excluded During
552 552

from the lunch menu, the lunch menu, and from and in inthe theevening evening supper replaced supper was wasreplaced meal which by a meal which contained bya contained no noeggs, eggs, butter, anything of butter, or oranything ofaa live nature. nature. live The real real test The test of of culinary culinary art art was was to to create create aarigorously rigorously apostolic meal meal which apostolic which had had ail all the the appearances appearances of ofan an excellent excellent supper. supper. Little by little the Little by little the Church Church relaxed relaxed its its original original severity, severity, permitted the and permitted and the use use ofbutter of butter and and eggs eggs and, and, later, later, the the flesh flesh 'cold-blooded' animaIs, of ter, certain of 'cold-blooded' animals, such such as as fish. fish. Still later, Still la certain game considered aquatic aquatic game considered to to be be cold-blooded, cold-blooded, such such as as tbe the pintail, scoter-duck, spoonbill, spoonbill, pintail, scoter-duck, moorhen, moorhen, coot, coot, teal, waterteal, waterrail, piper were rail, curlew, godwit and curlew, heron, heron, godwit and sand were allowed. sandpiper allowed. A st of A Lenten Lenten meal meal could could also also include include an an impressive impressive li list of sumptuous oves, entres sumptuous rem removes, entrdes and and roasts. roasts. Understood Understood in in these these terms terms the Lenten diet the Lenten diet does does not not differ differ from from normal normal diet diet from from the point ofview. the healtb health point of view. For For Lent Lent menus menlrs see FESTIVE COOKERY. see FESTIVE COOKERY. Lent 'Madame Victoire Lent anecdotes. anecdotes. CARME cARfiME ANECDOTIQUE ANEcDorreur --'Madame Victoire (sister of (sister good, sweet of Louis Louis XV), XV), good, sweet and and kindly, kindly, Iived lived in in the the most most refreshing refreshing simplicity simplicity in in a a society loved her society that that loved her dearly; dearly; her her household household adored (and withadored ber. her. ln In exemplary exemplary fashion fashion (and without out stirring from her luxurious bergre stirring from her luxurious bergbre in in Versailles) Versailles) she stre fulfilled fulfilled aIl all her her religious religious duties duties by giving aIl possessed to by gjving all she she possessed to the or and poor the po diligently observing and by by diligently observing fastings fastings and and Lent. knt. In In fact, fact, the the same lady's table same lady's table was was so notd for for its its meagreness so noted meagreness that the parasite gourmets gounnets kept kept weil away from well away from it. it. It It was was not not that that Madame Madame Victoire Victoire did did not not appreciate good food, appreciate good food, but but she she had had the the strictest strictest religious religious scruples scruples conceming concerning what what should eaten during should be penance. 1 be eaten during penance. I have have seen her tormented seen her tormented by by doubt doubt over over a a duck duck served served to her during during Lent. Lent. The to her The question was whether the the bird bird was was lean lean or or fat. fat. She She solicited solicited the the opinion of of a a bishop who who happened happened to to be be attending attending the the dinner. dinner. He He immediately immediately assumed assumed the the demeanour demeanour and and tone tone of a judge at a judge last court at the the last court of of appeal. appeal. He He told princess told the the princess that that doubts doubts such such as as these necessitated placing placing the these necessitated cooked the cooked bird juices bird upon upon a a very cold platter. If cold silver silver platter. If the creature's juices the creature's congealed congealed within quarter of udthin a a quarter of an an hour, hour, it it was was to to be be conconsidered fat; juices remained fat; if, if, on on the the other other band, hand, the remained liquid, the juices liquid, be eaten without it could could be without misgjving. misgiving. Madame Madame Victoire lost Victoire lost no time in putting the time in matter to the matter to the the test: test: the the juices did did not not congeal, a fact that delighted the princess since she was very congeal, a fact that delighted the princess since she was very partial to to that partial that particular type type of of wildfowl. wildfowl. The The truth truth was was that the the period period of that fasting which of fasting which Madame Madame Victoire Victoire so so diligently observed observed also diligently also upset upset her. her. She She waited waited impatiently impatiently for the midnight bell on the Saturday before Easter and saw for the midnight bell on the Saturday before Easter and saw to it it that that she immediately brought to she was was immediately plump fowl brought a a plump fowl with with rice and and other other succulent rice succulent dishes.' dishes.'

LETTUCE LETTUCE
'Desbarreaux, 'Desbarreaux, upon hearing a peal of of thunder thunder while while eating eating a a bacon bacon omelette, opened the window window and and flung flung his his plate plate out out into into the the night night muttering: muttering: "All "Ali that that fuss fuss just just for for an an omelette!" !"', omelette 'One 'One town town celebrated celebrated Lent Lent with with a a procession procession in in which which a a beautiful, frail frail young maid ma id played played the the part of of a a poor, poor, beautiful, wretched, barefooted girl. girl. The The moment moment the procession was was wretched, over, the the hypocrite hypocrite went went off off to to dine with with her lover lover on on a a over, quarter quarter of of lamb lamb and and a a ham. ham. The The odour odour of of these these drifted drifted down down the street, street, whereupon whereupon several several people went went up up to to the the room room the where she she was was enjoying herself and dragged her her downstairs, downstairs, where through the the town town with with the the spither to to parade through obliging her quarter of lamb slung round her shoulders and the roasted quarter ham strung strung round round her her neck.' neck.' (Brant6me.) ham
LENTIL. LENTILLE LENTILLE - A pulse (leguminous (Ieguminous seed), originally originally LENTIL. from central Asia, Asia, where it was was cultivated in in prehistoric prehistoric from times. There There are are numerous numerous varieties. This vegetable vegetable contains times. than any other; other; 100 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz.) oz.) provide 337 more protein than more calories. calories. salts, especially phosphorous Lentils are rich in mineral salts, recommended for children, and iron. They are particularly recommended anaemics, nursing and mothers, provided that and expectant mothers, anaemics, advisable is advisable none of these suffers from digestive troubles. It is pure them or to mix them with potatoes to counteract to pur6e husks. the effect of the unassimilable lentil husks' for as for lenn.s. CUISSON DEs LENTILLES. LENTILLTs. Proceed as culssoN DES Cooking of lentils. lentils must must be be (see BEAN). Dried white beans these, lentils Like these, BEAN). Like beans (see long. If If for long. not for Id water but not soaked water before cooking, but in co cold soaked in germinate, which to germinate, long, they they begin to are soaked soaked too too long, they are more least more at least not actually actually poisonous, at if not renders them, them, if difficuIt difficult to digest. be lentils can can be After cooking vegetable stock, stock, lentils or vegetable meat or in meat cooking in prepared in beans. suitable for dried white beans. in any way suitable LENTISK. family as as the the same family Bush of of the the same LENTISK. LENTISQUE LENTIseLiE -- Bush turpentine Its grown in Archipelago. Its Greek Archipelago. It is in the the Greek is grown turpentine tree. tree. It fruit yields an collected as mastic mastic is is col!ected resin known known as edible oil. oil. A resin an edible from its trunk This resin resin is is used used in it. it. This incisions in trunk by by making incisions to Raki. known as as Raki. the spirit spirit known to flavour the
produced LOGNAN Graves wines wines produced excellent Graves Among the the excellent LEOGNAN - Among ut-Bailly, in are the the Chteau-Ha Chflteau-Haut-Bailly, commune are in this Gironde commune this Gironde Chteau-Carbonnieux, Chiteaude Chevalier, Chevalier, ChteauDomaine de Chdteau-Carbonnieux, Domaine Malartic-Lagravire and Chteau-Olivier. Chflteau-Olivier. Malartic-Lagravidre and The The word word 'lettuce' 'lettuce' comes cornes from from the the Latin Latin lactuca, lactuca, because because juice. lettuce, lettuce, when when it it is is cut, cut, exudes exudes a a milky milky juice. In In ancient ancient times, times, the the lettuce lettuce was was looked looked upon upon as as a a sacred sacred plant plant (it Ot figures figures in in the the Passover Passover ritual ritual of of the the Hebrews Hebrews at at the the same same time time as as the the Rome ancient favour in paschal paschal lamb). lamb). It It was was brought brought into into favour in ancient Rome by by Antonius Antonius Musa, Musa, physician physician to to the the Emperor Augustus. Augustus. stomach disof stomach cured him of Galen that this this plant plant cured disGalen asserts asserts that orders orders when when he he was was young. young. He He adds adds that that lettuce lettuce brought brought age. him him restful restful sleep sleep in in his his old old age. end at the the end served at lettuce was was usually Among Among the Romans, Romans, lettuce usually served the Domitian, the Emperor Domitian, Under the of of the the evening meal. meal. Under the Emperor lettuce serve lettuce to serve customary to fashion fashion changed and and it it became became customary meal. of the the meal. at the beginning of when lettuce, especially when regarded lettuce, The The Romans now now regarded so took to serving it and so appetiser, and as an an appetiser, salad, as dressed as as a a salad, an hors-d'oeuvre. as an as hors-d'oeuvre. in win winter. year round, except in round, except all the the year in season season al! Lettuce is is in ter. in salads. salads. raw, in eaten raw, be eaten can be varieties can common varieties All Ali the the common cos but cos used in cookery, but are mainly used lettuces are Cabbage lettuces Cabbage like be cooked. cooked. Lettuce can be braised, like also be lettuces can can also lettuces endive. AU GRAS GRAS -nnclsfEs AU LAlruES BRAISES meat stock. stock. LAITUES in Meat lettuce in Braised lettuce Braised leaves. green outer outer leaves. the tough tough green Trim the lettuces by removing the Trim under them under Cool them water' Cool in salt salt water. 5 minutes minutes in for 5 Parboil them them for Parboil water' all the the water. extract ail leaves to to extract the leaves Squeeze the running water. water. Squeeze running lettuces together. together. 2 or or 3 3 lettuces Tie 2 onions rinds, sliced sliced onions bacon rinds, line it it with with bacon and line pan and a pan Butter a rather pan. Coyer with rather Cover with in this lettuces in this pan. Lay the the lettuces and carrots. carrots. Lay and moderate in a a moderate and cook cook in Cover and boil. Coyer to the the boil. fat stock. stock. Bring to fat for 50 50 minutes. oven for oyen half, in half, each in Cut each them. Cut untie them. and untie lettuces, and Drain the the lettuces, Drain half fold each each half and fold ends and at both leaves at both ends Trim the the leaves lengthwise. Trim lengthwise. it through through aa strain it stock, strain cooking stock, down the the cooking Boil down in two. two. Boil in lettuces. pour over the lettuces. over the and pour fine sieve, sieve, and fine as are' as as they theyare, servedas can be be served prepared in way can in this this way Lettuces prepared Lettuces may be or may be main dishes, dishes, or various main for various a vegetable, as a garnish for indicated below. below. asindicated sauces as various sauces cooked further with various AU MAIGRE MAIGRE -nnalsfss AU LAITUES BRAISES lettuce. LAITUES braised lettuce. Vegetarian braised Vegetarian with Moisten with rind. Moisten bacon rind. the bacon omitting the above, omitting as above, Proceed as Proceed of stock. stock. instead of water instead water Arrange Mosrrg - - Arrange ALA rl MOELLE LAITUES bone-matrow. LAITUES with bone-marrow. Lettuce witb Lettuce pie dish, alternating dish, alternating in aashallow shallow pie circle in lettuces in in aa circIe braised lettuces braised each of each on top top of Put on in butter. butter. Put fried in of bread bread fried with sUces slices of with littleDemiDemiAdd aalittle marrow. Add poached beef beef marrow. of poached lettuce 2 2slices slices of lettuce Boildown down stock. Boil (seeSAUCE) the braising braising stock. to the glace sauce SAUCE) to sauce (see glace pour over dish' Sprinkle Sprinkle overthe thedish. and pour strain and add butter, butter, strain stock, add the the stock, marrow. ofmarrow. eachslice sliceof ofeach parsley ontop top of little chopped parsleyon aalittle NoISETTE - AUBEURRE BEURRENOISETTE LAITUES AU butter. LAITUES Lettuce Lettuce in browned butter. inthe the Arrange in rollthem. androll them'Arrange halveand andhalve lettuces,and Braise the Braise the lettuces, pouraafew few serving, pour Beforeserving, dish. Before rosette on on aadish. form formof of aa rosette (seeBUTTER) overthem. them. BUTTER) over Brownbutter butter (see tablespoons tablespoons Brown EN garnishing. LAITUES LAITUES EN forgarnishing. butterfor inbutter lettucein oflettuce Chiffonnade Chiffonnade of and finely44trimmed trimmedand veryfinely Shredvery BEURRE - - Shred AUBEURRE cHIFFoNNADE AU CHIFFONNADE (3 with22tablespoons tablespoons(3 inaa panwith Put them themin lettuces.Put washed washedlettuces. with Moistenwith salt.Moisten tablesalt. Season withtable butter. Season tablespoons) tablespoons) butter. (q.v.).Coyer and Coverand (scant * cup) bouillon (g.v.). cup)bouillon 33 tablespoons tablespoons (scant forwhatever whatever recipefor inthe therecipe indicated in asindicated gently. Use Useas simmer simmer gently. with this this garnish. isto beserved servedwith main maindish dishis tobe cHIFFoNEN LAITUESEN forcold cold dishes.LAITUES lettuce for oflettuce CHIFFONChiffonnade Chifronnade of lettuces. washedlettuces. andwashed trimmed and sometrimmed NADE finelysorne veryfinely NADE- -Shred Shredvery oil, withoil, moisture.Season Seasonwith allmoisture. toextract extractail Squeeze themto Squeeze them pepper. vinegar, andpepper. vinegar,salt saltand and decoratesalads saladsand mainlyto todecorate usedmainly This chffinnade isisused Thischiffonnade poultry. orpoultry. mayonnaise fish,shellfish shellfishor offish, mayonnaiseof EN garnish.LAITUES LAITUESEN as withcream creamas lettucewith Chiffonnade garnish. oflettuce Chifronnadeof finelyshredded shredded andcook cookfinely Prepareand CHIFFONNADE L rACRME cRtME- -Prepare cHTFFoNNADE A recipe. precedingrecipe. lettuce forthe lettuceas asfor thepreceding pint, lf dl. dl.(t withIt moistenititwith When lettuceisissoft, soft,moisten Whenthe thelettuce $pint,

LOVILLE among the the second second wine c1assed classed among Bordeaux wine R ed Bordeaux Lf,OVILLE -- Red growths wines. great Mdoc M6doc wines. growths of of the the great Loville-Las-Cases, L6ovilleand LovilleL6oville-Poyferr6 and L6oville-Las-Cases, Loville-Poyferr Barton, are of Saint-Julien, Saint-Julien, are commune of made in in the the commune are made Bafton. which which are highly prized by connoisseurs. highly prized by connoisseurs. LEPIOTA. number which aa number fungus of of which of fungus lfptorn -- Species of LEPIOTA. LPIOTE of the France being being the in France best-known in edible, the best-known varieties are are edible, of varieties cultivated coulemelle. known as as the the coulemelle. also known lepiota,also cultivated lepiota, LEPIDOSTEUS peculiarity of of The peculiarity (Gar-pike). LEPIDOSTE rnrmosr6E - - The LEPIDOSTEUS (Gar-pike). this it is is so that pebblyscales, thatit scales,so very hard, hard, pebbly it has has very fish is is that that it this fish encased ofarmour. armour. suit of in aaveritable veritable suit encased in It America. ofCentral Central America. lakesof rivers and andlakes in the found in the rivers It is isto to be be found Its (q.v.)are pike(g.v.) are for pike recipes for All recipes delicate. Ali fairly delicate. Its flesh flesh is is fairly suitable dish. for this this dish. suitable for LES CHEESE. SeeCHEESE. LAUMES -- See LES LAUMES LESSER CELANDINE. are leavesare TIFSSER CELANDIhIE. FICAIRE whoseleaves Plantwhose FIcAIRE - - Plant s~metimes in They are arecooked cooked in blanched. They after being being blanched. eaten after sometimes eaten the (q.v.). asspinach wayas spinach(g.v.). thesame sameway LETTUCE. over wildall allover Plant whicb which grows wild LAITTJE- - Plant LETTUCE. LAITUE Europe, cultivated hasbeen beencultivated India. Ithas inIndia. andin inthe Caucasusand Europe, in theCaucasus in fromtime immemorial. timeimmemorial. China from inEgypt Egypt and andChina 553 553

LEVERET LEVERET
crga+-. Simmer for a few minutes. Serve as garnish t3:yp) CUp) cream. Simmer for a few minutes. Serve as garnish with a suitable main dish. with a suitable main dish. Lettuce Colbert (Vegetarian cookery). LArrrrtsr coLBERr Lettuce Colbert (Vegetarian cookery). LAITUES COLBERT Cook the lettuces halve them. Fold the halves into pear shapes. Squeeze them halve them. Fold the ha Ives into shapes. Squeeze them gently, dip in egg and breadcrumbs, and deepfry. gently, dip in egg and and deep-fry. Arrange them in in aa circle circle on on aa dish, dish, and and coyer cover with with Arrange them Maitre th6tel butter (see BUTTER, Compound butters). Matre d'htel butter (see Compound butters). Creamed lettuce. LArTuEs A r-l cninre - Halve or quarter Creamed Jettuce. LAITUES LA - Halve or quarter braised lettuces if they are too big and arrange them neatly braised lettuces if they are too big and arrange them in buttered frying pan. Simmer frying pan. for 5 Simmer for 5 minutes. minutes. Coyer Cover with in aa buttered boiling fresh fresh cre cream and simmer simmer until until this this is is reduced reduced by by boiling am and half. Arrange the lettuces in a shallow serving dish, alternathalf. Arrange the lettuces in a shallow serving dish, alternating them with crottons of fried bread. Coat with the cream. them with crotons of fried bread. Coat with the cream. Deep,fried lettuce. LArr{JEs EN FRrror Braise the lettuces Ue,eD-In~~ lettuce. LAITUES EN FRITOT -- Braise the Iettuces as for Braised lettuce. Fold the quarters and put them in a as for lettuce. Fold the quarters and put them in a dish. Season with oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper. Leave dish. Season with oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper. Leave them in ttris marinade for 30 minutes. Just before serving, them in this marinade for 30 minutes. Just before serving, dip them in a light batter and deep-fry. Garnish with fried dip them in a light batter and deep-fry. Garnish with fried parsley. parsIey. I-ettuce au gratin (in white sauce). LArruEs AU GRATTN LAITUES AU GRATiN Lettuce au pour Arrange lettuces in a gratin dish. a gratin dish. Pour Arrange halved braised lettuces (sre Mornay smtce SAUCE) over them. Sprinkle grated with Mornay sauce (see SAUCE) over them. Sprinkle with grated cheese, pour on melted butter, and brown. cheese, pour on melted butter, and brown. Lettuoe in grery. LArrr.'Es AU rus - Braise lettuces, halve LAITUES AU JUS - Braise lettuces, halve Lettuce in place them in a buttered pan. Sprinkle with a them, and them, and in a buttered pan. Sprinkle with a few tablespoons of well-seasoned brown veal stock. Simmer. few tablespoons ofwell-seasoned brown veal stock. Simmer. Arange the lettuces lettuces in a ring, alternating with slices of Arrange the in a ring, alternating with slices of bread fried fried in in butter. butter. Boil Boil down down the the cooking cooking stock, stock, add add bread butter and pour over the dish. butter and over the dish. Lettuce i ]a la hollandaise. hollandaise. LAITUES rlrrum A LA u HOLLANDAISE norr,ANDArsE Lettuce Arrange on on a dish, alternating with slices of bread fried in a dish, with slices of bread fried in butter, halved lettuces lettuces braised in in a a vegetable stock. stock. Coyer Cover butter, with Hollandaise sauce (see SAUCE, Cold sauces). with Hollandaise sauce (see SAUCE, sauces). proced as Lettuce i l'italienne. LArruEs A L'ITALIENNE r'n^e,LENNe Lettuce l'italienne. LAITUES - Proceed as for Lettuce gravy, in (see using ltalian sauce SAUCE) for Lettuce in gravy, using Italian sauce (see SAUCE) instead of the stock. instead of the stock. Lettuce MoRNAy - ke LAITUES MORNAY See Lettuce Le/tuce cu au gratin gratin Lettuce Mornay. Mornay. LArrrrrs (in white sauce). (in white sauce). punng Lettue LArruE - Sieve Lettuce pur&. pure. PURE DE DE LAITUE Sieve lettuces lettuces braised braised in in meat meat or or vegetable vegetable stock stock through a a fine fine sieve. sieve. Heat Heat this this pur6e. To give it body, add a few tablespoons ofconcentrated pure. To give it body, add a few tab.Jespo()llS and strained Bichamel sauce (ser, SAUCE). Season. Mix and strained Bchamel sauce (see ...,"' ...". . . L,'. Season. Mix and add butter. and add butter. Mashed potatoes can be added, as they can be added to the Mashed potatoes can he added, as they can he added to the pur6es of all watery vegetables. pures of ail watery vegetables. Lettuce sNhd. sALADE DE LArruE - See SALAD. Lettuce salad. SALADE DE LAITUE See SALAD. Lettuce sorff6. sourrlf DE LArruRE - Made with puree of Lettuce souffl. SOUFFL DE LAITURE - Made with pure of lettuce in the same way as for Endive soufi| (see nNDM;. lettuce in the same way as for Endive souffl (see ENDIVE). Lettuce soulr. porAcE DE LArruE - See SOUPS AND Lettuce POTAGE DE LAITUE - See SOUPS AND BROTHS, Purie of lettuce soup. BROTHS, of lettuce soup. Stuffed lettuce. LArruEt FARcrEs- Blanch the lettuces. Cool Stutfed lettuce. LAITUES FARCIES - Blanch the lettuces. Cool under under running running water water and and squeeze squeeze dry. dry. Slit SHt them them in in half half without cutting the stump. without cutting the stump. Season Season them them inside. inside. Fill Fil! each each lettuce with a fine forcemeat mixed with &txelles (q.v.). lettuce with a fine forcemeat mixed with duxelles (q.v.). Each piece of mixed forcemeat should be the size of an egg. Each piece of mixed forcemeat should be the size of an egg. Close up the lettuces, tie, and braise them. Close the lettuces, tie, and braise them. Stuffed lettuce can be served as a vegetable, arranged in a lettuce can be served as a vegetable, <1U<1Ul;;C;U in a circle on a dish with fried bread between and covered with with circle on a dish with fried bread between and any suitable sauce, or it may be used as a garnish. any suitable sauce, or it may be used as a garnish. Lettue DE LArruE Lettuce stumps. MoELLE MOELLE DE LAITUE - The The stumps of of cos cos lettuces which have gone to seed are mainly used. These lettuces which gone to seed are mainly These st-umps, after trimming, are cooked like asparagus, or in any stumps, after trimming, are cooked like ""1.......... 0 ... ." of the ways suitable for artichoke stalks or endive stumps. of the ways suitable for artichoke stalks or

LIAISON --See SeeTHICKENING. THICKENING. LIAISON

in butter butter in inaacovered covered pan. pan. Drain Drain and and Cook the lettuces in

(ALA) LffiGEOISE (A tA) - - Method Methodof ofcooking, cooking, applied to to LIGEOISE various foodstuffs. foodstuffs. Its Itscharacteristic characteristic feature featureis is theuse useof of various jgniper flavouring. (SeeOFF flavouring. (See OFFAL or VARIETY VARIETYMEATS, MEATS, juniper AL or Calves' kidneys kidneys d la la ligeoise; liigeorbe;THRUSH, THRUSH,Thrushes Thrushes d la la Calves' liigeoise.) ligeoise.) LIGHTEN. DTENDRE ofrnNons - - To To make make aamixture mixture lighter lighter by by the LIGHTEN. the addition of of eggs eggs or or sorne some Iiquid. liquid. addition
designate "'''',>AM''''''''''"'

LIGHTS. MOU Mou - - In In the the tripe tripe trade trade this this term term is is used used to LIGHTS. to lungs of the lungs of certain certain animais. animals. For preparation For the the preparation the -VARIETY of lambs' and and calves' calves' lights, lights, see see OFF OFFAL or VARlETY AL or MEATS.

LIMANDELLE -- A A Hat flat fish, fish, also also called called cardine cardine or mdre de or mre de LIMANDELLE sole,very good good to to eat. eat. It It has has an an elongated elongated oval oval body, body, about about sole, (10 to 25 to to 35 cm. cm. 00 to 14 14 inches) inches) long, long, with with fragile, fragile, shaded shaded 25 Its eyes scales. Its placed on eyes are are placed on the left side, the left side, wruch which is is pale scales. yellow with with brown brown shading. shading. Its Its blind blind si is white. side white. All de is yellow (q.v.) and recipes for for plaice plaice (q.v.) (q.v.) are and brill brill (q.v.) are suitable suitable for for this this
fish.

LIME. LIMON LrMoN -- Thin-skinned Thin-skinned citrus citrus fruit. fruit. LIME. Lime tree. tree. TILLEUL TTLLETJL -- Tree Tree of of which which there there are are several several Lime species in in Europe. The The scented scented Howers flowers are are used in infusions used in infusions for their their soothing and and antispasmodic antispasmodic propenies. properties. The The American species (Tilia Americana) Americana) is is called called a a linden linden tree. The flowers are also also used used in in pastry-making and and confectionery to flavour creams, to Havour creams, ices ices and sweets (desserts) of tp,..t"'Inp,c" various kinds.
LIMONADIERS Name given in in France in in former former times LIMONADIERS - Name to sellers sellers of non-alcoholic drinks. In of non-alcoholic In the the Middle Ages Ages the to only drinks drinks available available were beer, beeE hippocras (mead), sweet or only h91V win wines. Anyone was was free free to to stock stock and and sel! sell wines, heavy es. Anyone without seeking seeking permission of any any authority. authority. In In the without permission of the sixte91th teenth century, century, spirits began began to be widely drunk. They were sold by small glassful sold by the the smalJ glassful at vinegar shops. It was It was the the Italians, Italians, many of whom fofowed Catherine de Medici Medici into into France, France, who who introduced a a number number of entirelv entirely new Among these these were lemonade, orangeade, orangeade, bitte-r bitter new drinks. drinks. Among citror citron cordial, cordial, frangipane frangipane water, sherbets, popilo, populo, etc. The drink drink which which found found most most favour favour with the public was lemonlemonade, ade, and and the the name name limotadiers limonadiers stuck to ihop shop keepers who who sold sold other other drinks drinks as as well. weil. LIMOUSIN LIMOUSIN - See See MARCHE MARCHE AND AND LIMOUSIN. LIMOUSIN. LIMOUSII\E (A LA) LIMOUSINE (A LA) - Method Method of of preparing nrpnllT',na red cabbage. Cuts Cuts of of meat meat and and poultry poultry garnished garnislhed with red cabbige

cooked cooked in in this this way way are are also also called d la limousine.

LIMOUX, LIMOUX, BLANQUETIE BLANQUETIE DE DE - Sparkling Sparkling wine, wine, fairly fairly heavy, at Limoux Limoux in in the the Aude Aude district. district. heavy, made made at

LIMPET. LIMPET. BERNTcLE BERNICLE - See See BARNACLE. BARNACLE. LII\E. LINE. FoNcER FONCER - To To cover coyer the the bottom bottom of of a a stewpan stewpan or or
saucepan sauce pan with with strips of of bacon bacon and and rounds rounds of of vegetables; vegetables; or or to to cover cover the the inside of of a a terrine terrine with with strips of of pork fat; fat; or or to to cover coyer the the sides sides and and bottom bottom of of a a mould or or dish with with pastry. pastry.

LING. LING.LTNGTJE LINGUE- Fish Fish of ofthe the cod cod family, also called sea burbot or or long long cod.It cod. Itis isfished fished in in the the same same latitudes as ascod. cod. It Itis is quite quite good good to to eat, eat, is is often often salted salted like Iike cod, cod, and and is is prepared prepared in in the the same cod (q.v.) (q.v.) or orcodling. codling. same way way as as cod In In U.S.A. U.S.A. the the name name ling Jing is is sometimes sometimes given given to to the the freshfreshwater waterburbot. burbot.

LEVERET. LEVERET. LEVRAUT LEVRAUT-- Young Young hare. hare. (See (SeeHARE.) HARE.) LE\/R,OUX LEVROUX-- See SeeCHEESE. CHEESE.
554 554

LINNET. LINNET. LrNor-LrNorrs LINOT-LfNOTTE-- Small, Small, edible edible but but rather rathertasteless tasteless bird on linseed linseed or or hempseed. hempseed. It It is is prepared prepared in in bird which which feeds feeds on
the the same sameway wayas aslark lark(q.v.). (q.v.).

LIQUEUR LIQUEUR
LION LION- Lion Lion meat, meat, though though edible, edible, is is seldom seldom used used in in cookery. cookery. It is is rather rather tasteless tasteless and and must must be be steeped steeped in in an an aromatic aromatic It marinade before before cooking. cooking. marinade Ali recipes recipes for for beef beef (q.v.) (q.v.) are are suitable suitable for for lion. lion. All
~ ............,""'.'-"" - Name Name given given to to various various composite alcoholic alcoholic LIQLIELTR of spirits spirits Nowadays these these are are made made from from a a mixture of drinks. Nowadays and syrups. syrups. There There are are innumerable innumerable liqueurs liqueurs with with many many and different names. names. Their Their alcoholic alcoholic content content varies. varies. different can be be made made in the the home. home. Their quality quality varies varies Liqueurs can ae<:or,Olntg to ta the the spirits or alcohol alcohol used. used. according Ali home-made home-made liqueurs are made made by steeping fruit and All other basic basic ingredients ingredients in alcohol alcohol or spirits. The best spirits spmts other to use use are 80) proof. Liqueurs made in this way 70' (US 80") are 70 to are often often called ratafias. ratafias. are 1. uQurun, LIQUEUR, RATAFIA D'AcAcIA D'ACACIA * Acacia liqueur or ratafia I. oz-) Remove stalks from acacia flowers and steep 100 g. (4 (4 oz.) Remove the flowers in I 1 litre (lt pints, generous quart) spirits, of the preferably white, white, proof proof 88' (US 100'). preferably to infuse infuse for for 1 mont[ month, keeping the the hermetically hermetically Leave to container in a warm warm place. sealed container of a month add g. (4 oz., i add 125 g' At the end of * cup) sugar. Stir ail the sugar has dissolved. This takes from time to time until all and bottle. through filter paper, and about 2 weeks. Filter through LIQLJEUR, RATAFIA 0 (old rectpe). recipe). LIQUEUR, RATAfIA Acacia liqueur or ratafia tr (7 oz.) dish in a a deep dish D'ACACIA - Put g. (7 oz) acacia acacra flowers in Put 200 g. D'AcAcIA with alternate layers of fine sugar. Steep Steep for 24 hours. (scant pint, generous cup) water Moisten 2+ dl. dl. (seant Moisten with with 2i a syrup made with and the strained liquid a Add to to the and strain. strain, Add g. 750 g. sugar (t pint, i the remaining sugar 1+ dl. (i - 750 t cup) water and the (1 pint, pint' dl. (1 add 6 6 dl. (l+ lb., 3 cups) in ail. all. Finally, add are needed in cups) are 2| cups) cups) spirits. and bottle. few months. Filter and a few Leave to to steep steep for a n'lNctltqun RATAFIA D'ANGLIQUE LIQUEIR, RATAfIA Angelica liqueur liqueur or ratafia. LIQUEUR, (21b., 7 lump 7 cups) cups) lump (21b.) angelica, 900 g. (2Ib., g. (2Ib.) angelica, 900 900 g. Ingredients. 900 - Inffrediem's. (2 sugar,5 l| tablespoons tablespoons (2 quarts) spirits, li quarts, 5t 5j quarts) sugar, 5 litres (4| quarts, clove, tlitre tablespoons) teaspoon nutmeg, I c1ove, nutmeg, 1 l leaspoon tablespoons) cinlimon, 1 { litre (scant ps) filtered water. water. (scant pint, 2i cups) 2] cu Method. pieces and and put them them into small small pieces angelica into Cut the the angeliea Method. Cut together with ingredients in a and other other m~~relillents with the the sugar, spirits, and jar. Seal leave for 2 months. and leave large jar. the jar hermetically and Seal the Press the the large bowl. over a a large bowl. Press a fine strainer strainer over Sieve through through a juice. pieces all the extract ail the juice. pieces of of angelica angelica to to extraet Filter through and keep keep at well, and at cork weil, Bottle, cork filter paper. Bottle, through filter a a cellar. cellar. rather than than a a moderate moderate temperature, temperature, in a cupboard rather Anise RATAFIA r,tQunuR, RATAFIA I. LIQUEUR, or anisette anisette liquern or rataffa 1. Anise or D'ANIS green, crushed anise, (,wrserrr) - Put 25 g. (1 crushed anise, oz.) green, 25 g. D'ANIS (ANISETTE) 0 oz.) (2 tablespoons) teaspoon tablespoons) tablespoons (2 cinnamon, li tablespoons teaspoon cinnamon, quart) spirits. coriander generous quart) pints, generous spirits. litre (Ii pints, into 1 litre coriander into Infuse th. Add (18 oz., sugar cups) sugar oz., 2* 2| cups) 500 g. (18 Infuse for for 1 I mon month. Add 500 dissolved Filter and bottle. bottle. water. Filter dissolved in in a little water. a !iUle Anise D'ANIS RATAFIA D'ANIS t"tQusuR, RATAFIA liquern or or ratafia ratafia II. LIQUEUR, Anise liqueur Make kg. (st I litre litre (1 i (51 lb., and 1 I I cups) cups) sugar sugar and lb., II of2i Ztkg. a syrup Make a syrup of pints, muslin. quart) water. Strain through through muslin. gerierous quart) water. Strain pints, generous Dissolve g. (eboz.) oz.) anise, I g. (lt oz.) g. (io essence of Chinese anise, of Chinese oz.) essence Dissolve 3 3g. mon, essence (-r oz.) g.<iD cinnamon, oz.) essence of cinna orange, t g. of Seville Seville orange, essence of 5 (# oz{essence of of nutmeg, (t oz.) I g.(-sbanise, 1 g. (i of anise, essence of 5 g. oz.) essence 1 (* oz.) g. (! oz.)spirits spirits 70" (# oz.) in 15 15g. of vanilla in oz.) tincture tincture of I g. (fa(US 80) proof. 80") proof. Mix (21pints, pints) pints, 3t pints) litres (2i and add add li litres thoroughly and Mrrr thoroughly alcohol for 24hours. hours' (US 97) proof. Leave Leave to to stand stand for 85' (US 97') proof. alcohol 85 Filter Filter and and bottle. bottle. glsan of Anise (old recipe). LIQTJEUR, rTror ofaruseed aniseed (old 61cream Anise liquernro CRME (4 oz.) whole whole aniseed, 4 litres (3! 100 g. (4 cninrm o'lxts - 100 quarts, proof. 42")proof. 36" (US42) guarts, 41 quarts) spirits 36 4|quarts) Infuse muslin. strain through through muslin. days and andstrain Infuse for for66days Add lb., 13 litres (3| (61lb., in22litres dissolvedin 13cups) cups)sugar sugar dissolved kg. (6! Add 33kg. pints, pints, 4! pints) water. 4|pints) water.

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Leave Leave to to stand stand for for several several days, days, until until the the liqueur liqueur is is clear. clear. Strain Strain through muslin. muslin. Apricot Apricot liqueur. LIQUELJR LIQUEUR D'ABRtcor D'ABRICOT - Ingredients. Ingredients. 30 30 apricots, apricots, 4 4 litres (3f Oi quarts, quarts, 4| 4! quarts) quarts) white white wine, wine, I 1 kg' kg. quart) (If, generous pints, (t+ (2i lb., lb., 4f 4t cups) cups) sugar, sugar, I 1 litre litre Oi pints, generous quart) 58" 58 (US (US 66") 66) proof proof spirits, spirits, It tablespoons tablespoons (2 (2 tablespoons) tablespoons) cinnamon. cinnamon. the Moisten with apricots in Method. Method. Put Put the the apricots in a a large pan. Moisten with the white white wine and bring bring to to the the boil. boil. Add the sugar, cinnamon and spirits. for infuse for to infuse and leave Cover and heat. Cover off the Take the pan pan off the heat. leave to bottles tightly. tightly. the bottles Cork the 4 days. Strain, Strain, filter, filter, and and bottle. bottle. Cork Keep in a dry place. place. Ingredients' DE CASSIS cAssls - Ingredients. rtQurun DE I. LIQUEUR Blackcurrant Bhlck.cwrralllt liqueur liqueur 1. (2i lb.) lb.) blackblack' I kg. kg. (2i quart) spirits, (lt pints, generous quart) pints, generous spirits, 1 I 1 litre litre (li ($ oz.) I g. g. (faoz.) I c1ove, clove, 1 g. (tt sugar, 1 tU. 31 iSO g. 4 cups) currants, 750 (li lb. sugar, "ups) l0 blackblackflavour, add add 10 give a a To give stronger flavour, stick. To cinnamon stick. cinnamon top branches. branches. from the the top the greenest available, from currant leaves, the currant leaves blackcurrant leaves cinnamon and Put the and blackcurrant the clove, cinnamon Method. Put picked over and over and blackcurrants, picked lay the blackcurrants, top lay a bowl. On top in a bowl. On in add mix, add them, mix, over them, the spirits spirits over hand. Pour the well crushed crushed by hand. weil and a stone jar and mixture in in a the mixture again. Put the and mu mix again. the sugar and (in the for the sun, sun, if possible) for a warm warm place (in seal. Keep the jar in a seal. of infusion. At the end of a thorough infusion. ensure a I month to ensure at least 1 at a bowl. bowl, over a a sieve sieve over liqueur through a the liqueur strain the time strain this time this linen pulp in a coarse coarse linen in a squeezing the pulp liquid by all liquid by squeezing Extract aIl Extract cloth. c1oth. liqueur. the liqueur. and bottle bottle the Filter and sugaq dissolve the the sugar, help dissolve to heip not be be added added to Water should should not Water of the the liqueur. content of alcohol content the alcohol would lower lower the since this this would since (18 oz., cups) g. (18 oz., 2$ cups) plain syrup of of 500 500 g. a plain add a If too too strong, strong, add If (scant pint, cold. water. Dissolve Dissolve cold. pint, 2f cups) cups) water. litre (scant to f litre sugar to sugar DE CASSIS cAssls LIQUEUR DE recipe). LIQUEUR tr (old recipe). liquern 0 Blackcurrant liqueur Blackcurrant each of of (2* lb.) teaspoon each lb.) blackcurrants, 1 teaspoon kg. (2i Infuse 1 kg. Infuse (51 pints, pints, 6t 3 litres litres (5! ground c10ves and ground cinnamono 3 cloves and (lf lb., inaaiar.l*ave g. (l~ sugar in lb., 3! 3| cups) sugar pints) spirits and 750 g. spirits and jar. Leave day. every day. for 15 15 days, days, mixing mixing every perfectly c1ear, clear, when perfectly and, when filter, and, muslin, filter, through muslin, Strain through Strain bottle. bottle. RATAFIA D'OEILLETD'oEILLET ratafia. LIQUEUR, LIQUEUR, RATAFIA or ratafia. liquern or Carnation liqueur Carnation quart) alcohol, at 39 39' alcohol, at pints, generous quart) litre (Ii pints, I litre Steep in in 1 Steep (9 oz.) carnation petals.Spice Spice with with aa g. (9 (US,|4') carnation petais. proof, 250 250 g. (US 44) proof, I mon then for 1 month, Leave for cinnamon. Leave clove and and -!- teaspoon teaspoon cinnamon. c10ve th, then filter. filter. (18 oz., g.(18 cups) sugar and 2l cups) oz., 2* from 500 500 g. made from Add aa syrup made Add (scant pint,2t onc more. more. Bottle. water. Filter Filter once litre (scant ! litre 2* cups) water. DECERISE cERlsERATAFIA DE LIQUEUR, RATAFIA liqueur or or ratafia. LIQUEUR, Cherry liqueur Cherry with the stones. thestones. cherries with (8t lb.) lb.) Montmorency Montmorency cherries a kg. Crush 4 kg. (8i Crush for44days. days. ferment for leave to to ferment and leave in aa bowl bowl and Put them them in Put (US44) 44") 39"(US alcohol,39 quafts, 4f quarts) alcohol, 4 litres litres (3* quarts, Add 4 Add themixture mixture Put the sugar. Put proof spirit, and Ikg. ke.Qilb, and1 (2! lb., +cups) sugar. jar and through Squeezethrough for aamonth. month. Squeeze leaveto toinfuse infuse for and leave inaajar bottle. Filter and andboule. muslin. muslin. Filter sfle. LIQUEUR, LIQUEUR, Grenoble style. or ratafia, ratafia, Grenoble liquern or Cherry Cherryliqueur in22 Infuse in cRENoBLE - Infuse regoN DE DEGRENOBLE ALA fAON DECERISE RATAFIA RATAFTA DE cERIsE (4oz., g.(4 cup)blanched 125g. o2.,3 blanched pints)brandy pints,4! 4|pints) brandy125 Jcup) litres litres (3|pints, (*oz.) leaves,1I orleaves, peachblossom blossomor 10 g.H oz.)peach kernels, 10 cherry cherrystone stone kernels, tf',,~nr,r.n 12 cloves. cinnamon,12 teaspoon cinnamon, withthe the is thoroughly impregnated with brandy is When the thebrandy (3fpints, pints, pour it over 2 litresOi ingredients, pour aroma ofthese these ingredients, aromaof (18oz., juice with g.(18 2fcups) cups)sugar oz.,2i sugar with500 500g. pints) cherry 4-!4|pints) cherry juice andbottle. bottle. Filter and dissolved inil. it.Mix. Mix.Filter dissolved in DE RATAFIADE LIQUEUR,RATAFIA stones.LIQUEUR, cherrystones. ofcherry Liqueur ratafiaof orratafia Liqueuror of fromthe thestones stonesof canhe bemade madefrom Thiscan NOY AUX DE DECERISES cERIsEs - -This NoyAux cherries cherriesused used for jam-making. quite dry, crush arequite theyare Wash dry thestones. anddry stones. Whenthey Washand allowing1Ikg. kg. (2| lb., them. infusein inalcohol, alcohol,allowing toinfuse Putthem themta them.Put quart) spirits. (If,pints, generousquart) pints,generous litre(li 66cups) to1Ilitre cups)stones stonesto

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LIQUEUR
Proceed as asindicated indicated in previous recipe. in the the previous recipe. Proceed Citron liqueur or or ratafia. ratafia. LIQUEUR, LreuEUR, RATAFIA RATAFTA DE oECDRAT cfnnAr -Citron juice of Made with the peel and and juice ofcitrons, citrons, in in the the same sameway way as as Made Orange ratafia ratafia (seebelow). below). Orange (old recipe). liqueur(old recipe). LIQUEUR LreuEr.rR DE on CAF clrERoast lj kg. Coffee - Roast kg. .Coffee liqueur -finE. (3t lb., 13 cups) lb., 13 cups) best best mocba mocha beans grind very beans and and grind very (3t Infuse in in 5 litres (4| quarts, 51 5 litres (US 66) 5j quarts) alcohol alcohol 58 58. (US 66.) Infuse proof, and and 4 litres (3| quarts, 4 litres quarts, 4f quarts) quarts) water. water. After After 10 l0 proof, days of of infusion, infusion, distil in a a bain-marie bain-marie to (4| to obtain obtain 5 litres (4t 5 litres days quafts, 5t quarts). If 5| quarts). If aa stronger fiavour flavour of of coffee coffee is is desired, desired, quarts, more fresh fresh coffee coffee can can be be infused in in the the liqueur. liqueur. Next, Next, more (51lb., dissolve 21 2ike. ll cups) (4| pints, cups) sugar sugar in in 2t litres (412| litres pints, dissolve kg. (51 lb., Il pints) water 5i pints) water and and add add this this to to the liqueur. Leave the liqueur. Leave to to stand stand 51 overnight and and fil filter next day. day. overnight ter next Curagao liquern. LIQUEUR LreuEUR DE DE CURAAO cuRAgAo -- Ingredients. Ingredients. Curaao g. (2 oz.) bitter orange peel, I teaspoon cinnamon, 30 g. 50 g. 50 (2 oz.) peel, 1 cinnamon, 30 g. (l oz.) Pern Pernambuco I clove, clove, 1 I litre (l| pints, generous generous (1 oz.) am buco bark, 1 qlart) pure pure wine (US 90) wine alcohol alcohol 79 79' (US (18 oz., 90') proof, 500 g. (18 500 g. oz., quart) (scant pint, 2f cups) cups) sugar, sugar, t litre (seant ping 2* 2f,cups) water. I litre 2* Metlnd. Infuse Infuse the the orange orange peel, peel, pernambuco bark, bark, Method. cinnamon and and c10ve clove for for 3 3 weeks. weeks. Make Make a a syrup syrup of of the the sugar sugar cinnamon and water water and and pour it it over over these these ing:rec!erHs. ingredients. and Filter and and bottle. If If necessary, necessary, colour with with carmine carmine and and Filter caramel. caramel. Dantzig liqueur. liquern. LIQUEUR LreuEUR DE DE DANTZIG DANrzrc This liqueur is Dantzig - This made from from sweetened (US 97) sweetened 85 85" (US 97") proof grain spirits with made water added, added, and and flavoured flavoured with with various herbs. water The characteristic characteristic feature feature of of this liqueur is this liqueur is that that it it has has tiny tiny The gold specks of of go leaf floating floating in it. in it. Id leaf Fennel liqueur. liqueur. LIQUEUR LreuErJR DE DE FENOUIL FENourL This is is made made from from - This fennel stalks in the stalks in the sa same way as as Angelica fennel me way Angelica liqueur. Grande-Charheuse The liqueur liqueur of the the GrandeGrandeGrande-Chartreuse - The generally called Chartreuse, generally called Chartreuse, Chartreuse, is is one one of of the the most most Chartreuse, famous liqueurs liqueurs now now being being made. It is is produced the produced by the famous made. It distillation of gathered in of herbs is distillation berbs gathered in Alpine regions, and is named after the of the where named after the monastery monastery of the Grande-Chartreuse, where it it was was first first manufactured manufactured by by the the monks. monks. Juniper Juniper liqueur liqueur or or ratafia ratafia. LreuEUR, LIQUEUR, RATAFTA RATAFIA pn DE csNrivRn GENIvRE(8i Make a syrup 4 of kg. lb., lfi cups) Make a syrup of 4 kg. (8i lb., 17t cups) sugar sugar dissolved dissolved in in a a little !ittle water. water. With With this this syrup, moisten moisten 4 4 litres litres ($ quafts, 4! 4t quarts) juniper berries placed in a stone crock with 4 litres berries in a stone crock 4 litres (3f quarts, 4f quarts) quarts) alcohol. Seal and and leave to to infuse infuse for for 15 15 days, days, shaking shaking the the crock crock from from time time to to time time after after the the first first 3 3 or or 4 4 tays. "days. Strain Strain the the liqueur through a a muslin muslin bag. Bottle. Bottle. This liqueur is good good only only when it it has has been been kept kept a a very very long long time. time. Lemon Lemon liqueur liqueur or or ratafia. ratafia. LreuErJR, LIQUEUR, RATAFTA RATAFIA DE DE crrRoN CITRON Made Made with with the the peel and and juice juice of of lemons, lemons, in in the the same same way way as as (see below). Orange liEteur Orange Orange Orange liquern or ratafia. LreuEUR, LIQUEUR, RATAFTA RATAFIA D'oRANcE D'ORANGE Ingredients. Ingredients. 6 oranges, I litre litre (If; (li pints, generous quart) brandy brandy or or pure pure white spirits spiri ts of of wine, wine, 500 g. g. (18 oz., oz., 4 cups) lump teaspoon lump sugar, sugar, I t teaspoon cinnamon, cinnamon, jt teaspoon teaspoon coriander. coriander. Method. Method. Peel Peel the the oranges oranges carefully, carefully, so so that tbat none none of of the the white white pith pith is is mixed mixed with with the the outer outer rind. rind. Chop Chop the the rind rind finely. finely. Squeeze the the juice juice of of the the oranges into into a a jar. jar. Add Add the the sugar to to the juice. Add Add the the chopped chopped rind, cinnamon cinnamon and and coriander. COliallde:r. Pour Pour on on the the spirits spirits and and mix mix all ail together. together. Leave Leave to to infuse infuse for for 2 2 months. months. Filter Filter and and bottle. bottle. Orange Orange blossom blossom liqueur liqueur or or ratafia. ratafia. LrerJEUR, LIQUEUR, RATAFTA RATAFIA DE DE FLEURS D'oRANGR FLEURS D'ORANGER - Made Made from from the the petals petaIs of of orange orange blossom blossom in in the the same same way way as as Carrution Carnation liqueur. liqueur. Liquern Liqueur or or ratafia ratafia of of peach peach and and apricot apricot stones. stones. LreuEUR, LIQUEUR, RATAFTA RATAFIA DE DENoyArx NOYAUX -- Made Made from from peach peacb and and apricot apricot stones, stones, or mixture a or a mixture of ofthe the two. two. Half-fill Half-fill a a stone stone crock crock with with whole whole stones. stones. Fill Fil! up up with with
556 556

white alcohol. alcohol. Leave Leave to infuse for to infuse for H lj months, months,placing placing the white the crock either either in in the thesun sunor orin inaahot hot place. crack Tlke out quarter of out aaquarter ofthe stones. Crack them themand put the Take the stones. and put the shells and and kernels kernels back back in in the the crock. crock. Leave Le,ave to to infuse infusefor sheJls for another 15 15days. days. Draw Draw off off the the liqueur. liqueur. Add Add an another an equal equal quantity of of water water with (12 oz., with 350 g. (I2 350 g. ll cups) sugar per oz., lt per (scant quart, litre (seant quart, generous quart) quart) dissolved dissolved in it. Afteil0 10 days, filter filter and and bottle. days, (old recipe). Peppermint liqueur liquern (old recipe). LIQUEUR LreuEUR DE DE MENTHE MENTHE -Peppermint 2* ke.(s+ lb., II I I cups) cups) white white sugar on the stove in Dissolve (5t lb., ?issolve 2t (3 pints, 4 lf litres litres (3 4 pints) water. water. Add Add 2 2 litres (3* pints, 4| pints) alcohol, 58 58' (US 66) proof, and 66) proof, g. (t oz.) essence and 1 I g. of mint. mint. Leave for for 30 30 days. days. Filter Filterthrough paper. filter through fil ter paper. Leave Persico or or perslcot - A1coholic Alcoholic liqueur, liqueur, made made of of eau-de-vie, eou-de-vie, Persico peach stone stone kernels, sugar sugar and and aromatic aromatic substances. substances. It It is peach is used for for flavouring flavouring pastry pastry desserts. desserts. used liquern or (quince water) 1. ratafia (qwnce or ratafia I. LIQUEUR, r,rqurun, Quince Quince liqueur RATAFTA DE DE COING corNc (nlu DE on COING) quinces into corNc) -- Cut Cut the quinces into RATAFIA quarters. Remove Remove pipo and and shred shred the the fruit fruit without without peeling. quarters. Place in in a a bowl, bowl, coyer cover and and leave leave to to stand stand in in a Place a cool place for 3 3 days. Squeeze Squeeze through muslin. Add Add to to the the quince juice for an equal quantity quantity of of spirits. To (scant quart, To every every litre litre (seant quart, an generous quart) quart) of of this this mixture mixture add (12 oz., g. (12 add 350 350 g. lj cups) oz., It generous cups) sugar, a a c10ve jar clove and and a a small small piece of of cinnamon. cinnamon. Infuse Infuse in sugar, in a a jar for 2 2 months. for Strain through through a a muslin bag. bag. Bottle. IL LIQUEUR, lrqunun, RATAFIA RATAFTA DE COINGS Quince liqueur or ratafia H. Quince corNcts juice as P1e_pare the quince quince juice as for the previous recipe. To every Prepare (2j pints, juice add lf litres litres (2i pints, Ji 3{ pints) juice (siant pint, 2~ aAO } fitre (seant lt i! } litre (US 97) cups) alcohol, 85 85o (US 97") proof. Add t cups) teaspoon cloves, 1 I + teaspoon teaspoon cinnamon, cinnamon, a a pinch of ground ground mace mace and and I or teaspoon or 2 teaspoons bitter 1HIIVI.tU:'. almonds. teaspoons Leave the the mixture to to infuse infuse for for 2 2 months. Leave months. Then Then add add a (cold) made from 225 g. (8 (8 oz., oz., 1 I cup) sugar dissolved syrup (cold) dissolved (+ pint, seant on the the stove stove in 2 dl. dl. (t scant cup) water. on Filter and bottle. Filter bottle. Raspberry R~<i:n .... rl"" liqueur on or ratafia. LreuEUR, LIQUEUR, RATAFTA RATAFIA DE DE FRAMFRAMBorsr BOISE - Put I kg. (2* lb.) very ripe raspberries in a jar. jar. Cover Coyer with 4 litres litres (3* quarts, quarts, 4f 4- quarts) spirits. Cork the jar jar and witb 4 leave jar in in the the sun leave to to infuse infuse for for 2 2 months, putting the jar whenever whenever possible. possible. Add Add to the liqueur 500 g. (18 (l8 oz., 2| 2i cups) sugar, sugar, barely barely moistened moistened to dissolve dissolve it. Filter Filter and bottle. bottle. Tangerine Tangerine liqueur or ratafia. LIeuEr.JR, LIQUEUR, RATAFT.A RATAFIA DE DE MANMANDARINE DARINE - Proceed as for Orange Orange liqueur, using using the peel peel and and juice juice oftangerines. of tangerines. Vrnilla Vanilla liqueun liqueur or or ratafia. ratafia. LreuEUR, LIQUEUR, RATAFTA RATAFIA A r,e LA vlNrur.B VANILLEInfuse Infuse 3 3 vanilla vanilla pods pods in in 1 1 litre litre (If; (li pints, pints, generous generous quart) spirits for 15 days. days. Mix Mix with with a a very very thick thick syrup. syrup. Filter Filter and for 15

(3t

bottle.
Verbena Verbena liquern or or rateffa. ratafia. LreuEUR, LIQUEUR, RATAFTA RATAFIA DE DE VERvETNE VERVEINE Made Made with verbena ver:bena leaves leaves in in the the same sa me way way as as Vanilla Vanilla liqueur. liqueur. Violet Violet liquern liqueur or or ratafia. ratafia. LreuErJR, LIQUEUR, RATAFTA RATAFIA DE DE vToLETTE VIOLETTE Made Made with with violets violets in in the the same same way as as Camation Carnation liqueur. liqueur. Walnut Wa)nut liquern liqueur or or ratafia ratafia (walnut water water or or cordial). LrerJErrR LIQUEUR RATAFTA RATAFIA DE DE Norx NOIX (nnou, (BROU, EAU EAU DE DE Norx) NOIX) - Split Split in half 20 green green walnuts walnuts and and put put them them in in a a jar jar with with lf Hlitres litres half 20 (2f; (2i pints, pints, 3| pints) pints) spirits. spirits. Cork Cork tightly. tightly. Leave in a a cool cool place, place, Leave this mixture mixture to to infuse infuse for for 6 6 weeks weeks in shaking the the jar jar from from time time to to time. time. Strain through through a a cloth. clotho Add Add a a syrup syrup made made from from 500 500 g. g. (18 (18 oz., oz., 2f 2t cups) cups) sugar sugar and and 2j 21 dl. dl. (scint (seant j pint, pint, gene.o,is generous cup) of cup) boiled boiled water, water, also also a a little !ittle cinnamon cinna mon and and a a pinch pin ch of coriander. coriander. Leave Leave to to infuse infuse for for another another month. month. Strain Strain and and bottle. bottle.

LOACH LOACH
1

carm6Hte. Icarmlite. LIeuEUR, LIQUEUR, RATAFIA RATAFIA DE DE NoD( NOIX (rRou, (BROU, EAU EAU DE DE Notx NOIX A rl iLA clnufurs) CARMLITE) - Proceed Proceed as as indicated indicated in in the the previous previous recipe, recipe,

Walnut Walout liquern liqueur or or ratafia ratafia (walnut (walout water water or or cordial) cordial) i la la

LMR. LIVER. FoIE FOIE -

using 100 100 green green walnuts walnuts and and I ! tablespoon tablespoon cloves. cloyes. The The using walnuts I walnuts must must be be unripe unripe so so that that they they can can be be pierced pierced with with a a thick pin. pin. thick 1 When Wh en the the mixture mixture has has infused infused for for 2 2 months, months, add add 2 2 kg. kg. (4+ 1 (4! lb., lb., 9 9 cups) cups) sugar. sugar. Proceed as as indicated indicated in in the the previous previous recipe. recipe. Proceed
1

The The liver liver is is the the largest largest and and most most important important of of the the glands glands attached attached to to the the digestive digestive organs. organs. game are The The livers livers of of slaughtered slaughtered animals, animais, poultry poultry and and game are such as as fish, such all in cookery, cookery, as as are are those those of of one one or or two two fish, ail used used in turbot turbot and and skate. skate. (See (See OFFAL OFFAL or or VARIETY VARIETY MEATS.) MEATS.) all the describe ail to describe LWESTOCK. LIVESTOCK. sEr,AIr BTAIL - This This word word is is used used to the raised on food, for intended animals particularly animals, animais, particularly animais intended for food, raised on cattle-breeding cattle-breeding farms. farms. farmyard to small small farmyard applied to is also also applied word is Erroneously Erroneously this this word rabbits. hutch rabbits. poultry and and hutch of poultry animals, animais, various various types types of heading this heading come under under this which should should come animals which The The only only animais pigs. lambs and and pigs. sheep, lambs calves, sheep, cows, calves, oxen, cows, are are bullocks, bullocks, oxen,

ILIQUEUR or or DESSERT DESSERT WII\ES. WINES. vINs VINS DE DE LIQUEIJR

LIQUEUR LIQUEUR -

rName given to to any any wine wine which which is is both both sweet sweet and intoxicating. intoxicating. Name given these wines, wines, which which are mainly mainly drunk drunk as as ap6ritifs apritifs IAmong Among these land used in cooking and confectionery, confectionery, the following following are and used well known: known: Frontignac, Frontignac, Muscatel, Muscatel, Lunel, Lunel, Grenache, Grenache, well IBanyuls, Banyuls, Madeira, Madeira, Malaga, Malaga, Malmsey, Malmsey, Marsala, Marsala, Port, Lacrima-Christi. Sherry, Lacrima-Christi.

l
1

ILIQUORICE. RGLISSE - Leguminous Leguminous plant found found mainly mainly LIQUORICE. nfcr,lsse in Spain and Sicily. Its rhizome contains a sweet substance, a sweet and when when soaked soaked or or infused infused in provides a in water, water, provides and drink. Solidified liquorice comes cornes from a watery extract obtained Solidified a solid to a by strong strong pressure, pressure, which which is is then then evaporated to by black in colour, consistency. It is and is generally moulded colour, and is black consistency. a sweet tasting, a when broken, sweet sticks, glossy when into cylindrical sticks, extent when to sorne some extent little bitter and in water to and sharp, sharp, soluble in little pure.

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Humberl Alex Humbert Livre d'or d'orof ofAlex. Livre (Phot.X) X) (Phol.

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Litchis branch Litchis on onaabranch

LITCHI probably of of fruit, probably This fnt, LETcHI -- This LICHEE. LETCHI LITCHI or or LICHEE. Chinese Philippine India, the the Philippine in India, cultivated in also cultivated is also Chinese origin, origin, is Islands It has hasthe the Far East. East' It of the the Far countries of Islands and and other other countries appearance andhas hasaa ofaacherry, cherry, and about the thesize sizeof berryabout appearance of of aa berry large inflavour. flavour' musky in andmusky pulp is is white, white,sweet sweetand The pulp large stone. stone. The It easily awayeasily comes away which cornes shell which and scaly hard and scaly shell It has has aa thin, thin, hard from greenish at turns atfi.rst, first, then thenitit turns is greenish The shell fruit. The shell is from the the fruit. pink, ripe, red. red. fully ripe, pink, and andwhen whenfully For It shell' It dryin inits itsshell. leftto todry isusually fruit is usually left For export, export, the the fruit then withaaslightly prune, is verysweet slightly sweetwith isvery likeaaprune, black like thenturns turns black acid nuts. litchi nuts. lichee or orlitchi calledlichee andis iscalled acid flavour, flavour,and Fresh andthose those storesand delicatessenstores insorne licheesare aresold soldin somedelicatessen Fresh lichees specialising fruits. inexotic exoticfruits. specialisingin LITRON bushel Anold oldbushel measure.An liquid measure. French liquid Old French LITRON - - Old measured gallons)and (2f;gallons, gallons,3! anda a 3|gallons) 13litres litres(2i about 13 measured about litron ofaabushel. bushel. litron was wasaasixteenth sixteenthof LITTLE (Fieldduck). Migratory ceNspEr$nr - -Migratory duck).CANEPETIRE BUSTARD(Field LITTLE BUSTARD European family. waderfamily. thewader ofthe wild bird birdof Europeanwild UV AROT - See CHEESE. CHEESE. See LMROT

especially book' especially visitors' book, for the thevisitors' term for French term D'ORLME D'OR LIVRE - French to restaurateur to by the the restaurateur offered by (in this oneoffered the one context) the this context) (in repository therepository becomes the it becomes often it All too too often clients. Ail enthusiastic clients. enthusiastic jokes; sometimes, sometimes, and tasteless tasteless jokes; compliments and of banal banal compliments of drawhumorous drawandhumorous witticisms and cleverwitticisms it con contains however, tains clever however, it establishment. logbook of ofthe theestablishment. worthy logbook and becomes becomes aaworthy ings ingsand -Cun ofthe the livred'or d'orof thelivre whatthe forexample, example,what yo.,imagine, imagine, for Can you with the the todaywith betoday could be Cancale could of Cancale restaurant of Rocher Rocher restaurant Eugdne Baudelaire,Eugne Hugo, Baudelaire, Victor Hugo, Balzac,Victor of Balzac, signatures signatures of Flaubert? andFlaubert? Sue, Goncourts and theGoncourts Sue,the forexexThat,for treasures.That, veritabletreasures. areveritable d'orare Sorne /ivresd'or Some livres restaurateur-cumPuteaux, restaurateur-cumofPuteaux, Renaultof ample, ofCamille Camille Renault ample,of contains andcon volumesand toseven sevenvolumes runsto whichruns arts,wbich patron tains patron of ofthe thearts, Villon, byVillon, signedby drawingssigned anddrawings paintings, paintings, watercolours watercolours and etc. L6ger,etc. FernandLger, Braque,Fernand Picasso,Braque, Reynold Arnould, Picasso, iteynold Arnould, of restaurantof Saint-Antoine restaurant GrandSaint-Antoine theGrand ofthe d'orof In inthe livred'or thelivre first thefirst fromthe lineagefrom itslineage traceits cantrace familycan Albi, Rieuxfamily Albi,tbe theRieux tlte ofSam, Sam,the d'orof livred'or the/ivre Thenthere thereisisthe entry Jaurds.Then byJaurs. entry by all boastsail which Pontchartrain, which ofPontchartrain, troubadour-restaurateur boasts trou-badour-restaurateur of more' manymore. andmany itstime time- -and ofits famousof the ofthe thefamous signatures of thesignatures passedthe thetime time friendspassed hisfriends andhis During Picassoand war,Picasso thewar, During the restaurant' Catalanrestaurant. ofthe the Catalan drawing papertableclotbs tableclothsof onthe thepaper drawing on drawcollecteddrawpublishedthese these The collected Hugnetpublished poetGeorges GeorgesHugnet Thepoet wine) red and (somecoloured coffeeand mustard,coffee inin aa ings red wine) withmustard, colouredwith ings(sorne all onlyail Catalan.If du Nappe as theNappe luxury the du Cala/an. If only knownas luiuryedition editionknown livres calibre ! ofthis thiscalibre! wereof d'orwere livresd'or

Peru. foundinin LLAMA. found Peru. ItItisis mammal Ruminantmammal LAMA- -Ruminant LLAMA.LAMA as beef (q.v.). way edible isis cooked the same way as beef(q.v.). same the cookedinin and edibleand
freshEuropeanfreshgiventoto LOACH. several severalEuropean Namegiven Locnn- -Name LOACH.LOCHE and barbed. water ail inin shape and barbed. long shape alllong waterfish, fish,

557 s57

LOAVES LOAVES

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paper tablecloths Drawings on on paper tablecloths of Drawings of the the Catalan Catalan restaurant. Top left: restaurant. Top left: Drawing Drawing by by Pierre de de Mandiargues. Mandiargues. BOl/om Bottom left: Pierre by left : Drawing Drawing by by P. P. Eluard. Eluard. Above: Drawingby Above: Drawing (Phot. X) J. J. Cocteau Cocteau (Phot. X)

There There are are three types: types: the common loach, loach, a delicate fish found mountain streams; the sptned spined loach or groundling, groundling, found in in mountain a a small small fish fish found found in in rivers and streams, stream s, about about the size of a gudgeon, and rather rather leathery; leathery; the rockling, rockling, about about the same same gudgeon, and size size as as the the other other two, two, but but less less delicate in flavour. The loach is is eaten eaten fried, fried, en en matelote or or d la meuniire. meunire. pArNs LOAVES. LOA YES. PAINS - Culinary CuIinary term tenu applied applied to dishes, served cold or hot, hot, made made of of a a forcemeat forcemeat placed placed in a special special mould mould cold or and and poached poached in in a a bain-marie bain-marie (q.v.) (g.v.) if if served served hot, hot, and and set in a a mould if served cold. cold. mould lined lined with with aspic aspic jelly jelly and and chilled chilled if This This type type of of entrte entre was was once once very popular. popular. It It has has been been replaced replaced by by mousses mousses (q.v.), (g.v.), which which are also also prepared prepared hot or cold. cold. The The various various ingredients ingredients used used for for the the forcemeats forcemeats are, are, as as indicated gras), game meat in individual individual recipes, recipes, Iiver liver (foie (foie gras), indicated in (winged (winged and and ground ground game), game), poultry pouItry and and vegetables, vegetables, fish fish and and shellfish. shellfish.

FISH FISH AND AND SHELLFISH SHELLFISH LOAVES. LOA YESo pnns PAINS
CRUSTACfS. CRUSTACS.

DE DE porssoNs, POISSONS,

Pike Pike loaf loaf (hot). (hot). rlrN PAIN DE DE BRocHEr BROCHET - Dice Dice 500 500 g. g. (18 (18 oz.) oz.)
558 558

pike flesh (net weight, after c1eaning cleaning the fish). fish). Season Season with with 1 I teaspoon pinch of white white pepper and teaspoon saIt, salt, a a pinch and a a little grated nutmeg. Pound in a mortar into a fine paste. mortar and in its place put 250 Remove the fish from the mortar Remove g. 250 g. (9 oz.,l oz., 1 cup) Flour Flour panada panada (see PANADA). After pounding pounding the panada panada thoroughly, add to it 250 g. (9 oz., generous cup) butter. Blend by pounding pounding together. together. Put the pike back in the mortar and pound vigorously vigorously to perfectly smooth mixture. Add, Add, still pounding, pounding, 1 obtain a perfectly smooth mixture. I whole egg and, one by one,4 one, 4 egg egg yolks. whole mortar, rub through a a Remove the forcemeat from the mortar, transfer to a bowl and stir stir with a wooden spoon spoon fine sieve, transfer until very smooth. until Butter a mould and fill with with the the mixture. Cook Cook in a bainbainButter in the the oven oyen from from 45 45 to to 50 50 minutes, depending depending on on marie (q.v.) (g.v.) in marie the size size of the the mould. Turn out onto a serving servir1g dish, either either the the dish or on a a fried cro0ton croton of of bread. Serve Serve straight onto the straight with the the garnish garnish and sauce sauce as as indicated indicated in the the recipe. recipe. with Various fish fish loaves ]oaves (hot). (hot). enrNs PAINS DE DE porssoN POISSON - Using Using carp, carp, Various salmon or or turbot turbot flesh, flesh, prepare prepare as as described described in the the recipe recipe salmon for Pike Pike loaf. loa! for

LOAVES LOAVES
The Tbe forcemeat forcemeat can can also also be be prepared prepared as as described described in in the the Mousselineforcemeat (see FORCEMEATS). FORCEMEATS). recipe for for Mousseline recipe forcemeat (see Garnishes and and sauces. sauces. Cancalaise Cancalaise (poached (poached oysters) oysters) and and Garnishes Normande Normande sauce; sauce; Amiricaine Amricaine (slices (slices of of spiny spiny lobster) lobster) and and American American sauce; sauce; Cardinal Cardinal (slices (slices of of spiny spiny lobster lobster or or lobster, lobster, truffies and and mushrooms) mushrooms) and and Cardinal Cardinal sauce; sauce; Normande Normande truffes (mussels, (mussels, oysters, oysters, crayfish, crayfish, mushrooms mushrooms and and truffes) truffles) and and Normande surce; sauce; Trouvillaise Trouvi//aise (shrimps' tails, tails, mussels mussels and and Normande mushrooms) and and Shrimp Shrimp sauce. sauce. (See (See GARNISHES, GARNISHES, mushrooms) SAUCES.) SAUCES.) loaves (hot). rews PAINS DE DE cRusrAcns CRUSTACS - Prepare Prepare a Shellfish loaves lobster, spiny lobster, lobster, crab crab or or any other other shellfish shellfish forcemeato forcemeat, lobster, as described in in the the recipe recipe for Panada Panada forcemeat forcemeat with butter butter (see (see FORCEMEATS), FORCEMEATS), pour into a a well-buttered mould mould with a hole hole in the middle and poach in the the oven oyen in a bainbainmarie. marie. Turn Tum out out onto onto a dish dish and serve serve with the garnish gamish indicated. indicated. Pour over over a sauce sauce appropriate appropriate to the the garnish. garnish. Pour Garnishes and and sauces. sauces. All Ali the the garnishes gamishes and and sauces Garnishes for fish fish loaves loaves are are applicable applicable to to shellfish recommended for loaves. loaves.
sieve sieve and and put put this this forcemeat forcerneat into into a a bowl. bowl. Add Add 50 50 g. g. Q (2 oz.) oz.) blanched, blanched, diced diced udder, udder, 50 50 g. g. Q (2 oz.) oz.) pickled pickled tongue tongue and and 50 50 g. g. added). (2 (2 (2 oz) oz.) truffies trufHes (50 (50 g. g. (2 oz.) oz.) pistachio pistachio nuts nuts can can also also be he added). 'Transfer 'Transfer the the mixture mixture into into a a cylindrical-shaped cylindrical-shaped mould, rnould, lined lined with with thin tbin rashers rashers of of bacon, bacon, in in such such a a way way as as to to have have the tbe whole whole inside inside surface surface covered covered completely. completely. Press Press down down the the mould mould with with a a napkin napkin to to make make the the forcemeat forcerneat take take shape. shape. Cover Coyer with with more more bacon rashers rashers and and stand stand the the mould rnould in in a a casserole casserole l0 10 cm. cm. (4 (4 inches) inches) larger larger than than the the mould. mould. Pour Pour enough boiling boiling water water into into the the casserole casserole to to reach reach to to within witrun some I 1 cm. (| (t inch) incb) of the rim. rim. Place Place on on red red coals coals and and put put sorne the water glowing coals on the lid !id as as well, weil, to to ensure ensure that tbat the water all the maintains - all maintains the same temperature - almost alrnost boiling boiling the a slow slow a bain'marie time. time. (Or (Or you you can cook the loaf loaf in in a bain-marie in in a oven.) later if 'A later take 'A good good 2 hours later take out out the the mould mou Id (l (1 hour bour later if put it cold on ice ice or or in a cold and put the cooking cooking is done done in the tbe oven) oyen) and it on in a on the cold, heat place. place. When When the the loaf is is quite guite cold, heat the the mould mou Id on the lid. Remove casserole lido a casserole stove to loosen loosen it it and turn tum out onto a Rernove some loaf, and and spoon spoon over over sorne the bacon rashers rasbers covering the loaf, round. and ail all round. warrn, clear jelly jelly on top and which of which bottom of 'Put the dish, the the bottorn entrie dish, loaf on on an an entre the loaf 'Put jelly, and the Garnish the and set. set. Gamisb liquid jelly, some liquid be lined should he shouJd tined with with sorne jelly jelly, then with jelly then with with chopped jelly, dish first first with edges of of the edges the dish jelly.' decorate the the top with jelly.' and decorate cro0tons, and crotons,
DE GIBIERS GIBIERS PAINs DE LOAVES. GAME GA ME LOA YESo PAINS This is is PoIL -- This DE GIBJE~DE r.lrN DE GIBIER DE POIL game lod loaf (hot). PAIN Ground game Ground like or deer, hare or deer, like leveret, hare flesh of of leveret, prepared, using using the the ftesh prepared, (see CHICKEN). CHICKEN). loaf (hot) (see Chicken loaf(hot) Chicken pon jelly. PAIN A LA u oe POIL cIBIER DE PAIN DE DE GIBIER game loar loaf in in jelly. Ground game Grouod (see helow) game loaf below). in jel/y loaf in Winged game Like Winged cslfE -- Like GELE .. ielly (see Use PLUME -- Use DE PLUME (hot). PAIN DE GIBIER GIBIER DE game lod rerN DE loaf (hot). Winged game Winged like Chicken Chicken partridge, like pheasant, partridge, of woodcock, woodcock, pheasant, the meat meat of the garnish and sauces suitable suitable and sauces (see CHICKEN). The garnish CHICKEN). The toaf (hot) (see loaf(hot) sauce Demi-glace sauce and Demi-glace game loaf loaf are: are: mushrooms and for hot hot garne for game stock stock concentrated garne (see SAUCE) on buttered, buttered, concentrated based on SAUCE) based (see (q.v.); chipolata chipolata afumet of a consistency of to the the consistency down to boiled down boiled fumet (q.v.); (escalopes of of Rossini (escalopes Demi'glace; Rossini butterd Demi-glace; with buttered sausages sausages with a truffie on a truffie sauce based based on and Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce liver and and trufHes) truffies) and liver on trume truffie fumet. based on D emi- g lace based and Demi-glace trufles and fumet; fumet fume t ; truffles LA PLITME A LA DE PLUME DE GIBIER GIBIER DE PAIN DE game lod loaf in in jelly. Winged game Winged ielly. PAlN (see FOIE FOIE GRAS) GRAS) gras loaf inielly (see loaf injel/y Foie gras hke Foie cELfE -- Prepare Prepare like GELE game (net weight) (18 oz.) of game g. (18 weight) of oz.) (net liver by by 500 500 g. replacing the the liver replacing indicated. meat. as as indicated. meat, eggs with eggs vegetables mixed mixed with braised vegetables made of of braised loaves are are made loaves plain poured into a buttered buttered plain into a an omelette, omelette, poured as for for an beaten beaten as a bain-marie. poached in in a bain'marie. and poacbed mould and mould (see Endive loaf loaf (see given for fot Endive recipe given following the the recipe By following By made: loaves can can he be made: vegetable loaves other vegetable various other ENDIVE) ENDIVE) various etc. turnip, etc. cauliflower, turnip, carrot, cauliftower, aubergine, carrot, artichoke, aubergine, artichoke, asaa is served moulds,is servedas large moulds, made in in large loaf, made of loaf, This type type of This poured over it. over it. sauce poured with aacream cream sauce small entre, entrie, with small gamish for for meat and meatand asaagamish are used usedas loaves are vegetable loaves Small vegetable Small garnishing fish or dishes, or for garnishing fish dishes, also be be used usedfor poultry. They They can can also poultry. given helow. below' recipes are are given eggs.Sorne Some recipes poachedor or soft-boiled soft-boiled eggs. poached DECHOU-FLEUR cHou-FLEUR - PAINSDE PETITS PAINS loaves. PETITS Small cauliOower cauliflower loaves. Small yolks, pour pour it it with egg egg yolks, pur6e bound boundwith cauliflower pure Prepare aa cauliflower Prepare in the inaa oven in cook in and cook the oyen dariole moulds moulds and into small buttered dariole small buttered into bain-marie. bain-marie. Using DE LAITUES PAINS DE LAITUES- - Using loaves. PETITS PETITs PAINS lettuce loaves. SmaII Small lettu prepare as as egg, prepare with egg, boundwith and bound chopped and lettuces, braised, braised, chopped lettuces, (seebelow). loaves(see below). spinach loaves for for Sma// Smallspinach pur6es such vegetable pures such orvegetable vegetable loaves loavesor Various other othef vegetable Various chicory, Brusselssprouts, endive,Brussels sprouts,chicory, mushrooms,endive, as t, mushrooms, as carro carrot, preparedin manner. intbe samemanner. thesame canhe beprepared etc. can tomato, tomato,etc. D'fpnlnos PETITS PAINS P.ltNsD'PINARDS laromaine. romaine. PETITS loaves i la spinachloaves SmaJJ Smallspinach pur6e,tossed in tossedin leafspinach spinach pure, Prepare aaleaf A LA r.l ROMAINE nouewn- - Prepare

PAINS DE FoIE FOIE GRAS GRAS FOIE GRAS LOAVES. pAINs - In the old days mousses and thefoie grcs gras loaves loaves (today (today replaced by by foie foie gras mousses thefoie (q.v.) to bind them. mousselines) were prepared prepared using using panada panada (g.v.) them . mousselines) This is no no longer longer used used nowadays; nowadays; a more delicate coma more This is position is is obtained and the the binding binding of position mixture is of the the mixture obtained and old recipe recipe for tbis assured by using meat jelly. jelly. Here is is an an old this entre: type of entrie:

Jellied gras loaf(Carme) Jellied foie foie gras loaf (Carime)

(CarGme's recipe). DE FOTE FoIE JelUed PAIN DE recipe). PAIN grs Joar loaf (Carme's foie gras Jellied foie fattened made from from fattened This entre ent6e can can be be made rl - This goose liver. capon liver. goose liver uses capon liver although Carme uses although Carme you have 'Trim (l lb.) have liver, which which you fat capon 'Trim 450 g. (1 lb.) fat capon liver, 450 g. previously ter. previously soaked in wa water. soaked in 'Weigh t cup) panada (6 oz., panada and g. (6 and the the same same 'Weigh out 175 g. o2.,3 out 175 "up) amount fat. grated bacon fat. or grated bacon of butter butter or amount of 'Begin it. Take Take to it. panada, then add butter butter to pound the then add 'Begin to the panada, to pound tbis proceed to pound the the to pound and proceed mortar and out of of the the mortar mixture out this mixture liver panada and and paste. Add perfectly smooth Add the the panada liver into smooth paste. into aa perfectly yolks, pound good 15 egg yolks, 5egg 15 minutes, minutes, adding adding 5 pound together for aa good together for 4 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) 2 tablespoons tablespoons(3 4 teaspoons salt, 2 teaspoons spiced spiced salt, fines (by fines meant Car0me meant herbes,Carme in butter butter(by herbes tossed tossed in fines herbes, fines herbes aa mixture and shallots and mushrooms, truffies, truffies, shallots of chopped chopped musbrooms, mixture of (see aromatic Veloutd sauce sauce(see and 1I tablespoon tablespoon Velout aromatic herbs) herbs) and SAUCE). SAUCE). 'When rubitit through through aa blended, rub 'When the has been been weil wellblended, whole has thewhole
GRAS A LA GELE cRAs cnrfs -

s59 559

LOBSTER LOBSTER

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Lobster ((Robert Carrier) Lobster Ro be r t C at ie r\

Noisette Noisette butter butter (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters), butters), mixed mixed with with diced diced anchovy anchovy fillets, fillets, and and bound bound with with eggs eggs beaten beaten as as for Pour the the mixture mixture into into buitered buttered dariole dariole for an an omelette. omelette. Pour moulds moulds and and cook cook in in a a bain bain marie. marie.

in in shape shape to to the the crayfish. crayfish. There There are are two two main main types; types; one one is is
found found in in European European waters, waters, the the other other in in American American waters. waters.

LOBSTER. LOBSTER. HoMARD HOMARD - Large Large seawater seawater crustacean crustacean similar similar

of the the lobster is is smooth. smooth. Its Its claws The shell of claws are are armed armed of unequal size; size; one one is is large large and with pincers pincers of with and oval, oval, the the other other more slender slender and and elongated. elongated. more of a lobs ter found in in European European waters waters is is of The lobster a rich, rich, dark dark blue colour tinged tinged with with purple. purple. Its Its joints are are orange blue orange and and its feelers, which are as long as its body, red. its feelers, which are as long as its body, red. The lobster lobster reaches reaches full full size size very very slowly. slowly. At At 5 5 years years old, old, it it The is about about 12 cm. inches) long, long, having having shed shed its its tail tail some sorne is cm. (5 inches)
560 560

LOBSTER LOBSTER
20 times times in in the the course course of of this this period. period. Later Later it it grows grows very very 20 attaining 30 30 to to 50 50 cm. cm. (12 (12 to to 20 20 inches) inches) in in much larger, larger, attaining much I lb.). and weighing weighing up up to to 5 5 kg. kg. (l (II lb.). length and length The female female lobster lobster carries carries its its eggs eggs in in the the tail. tai!. The The French French The have a a special special name, name, paquette, paquette, for for the the female female lobster lobster with with have and connoisseurs connoisseurs assert assert that that it it is is when when the the fully formed formed eggs, eggs, and fully eggs are are formed formed and and not not laid laid that that the the flesh flesh of of the the female female eggs at its its most most delicate delicate and and savoury. savoury. lobster is is at lobster The American American lobster lobster lives lives only only on on the the Eastern Eastern coast coast of of The North America, America, running running from from Labrador Labrador to to North North Carolina, Carolina, North

although although the the most most important important sources sources are are off off the tbe coast coast of of Nova Nova Scotia Scotia and and the the state state of of Maine. Maine. According According to to United United States States fisheries fisheries authorities, authorities, the the S-year-old 5-year-old lobster lobster measures measures about about 27 27 cm. cm. (10| (1 ~ inches) inches) and and has has moulted moulted 25 25 times. times. It It is is a a lobster of the dark dark mottled mottled green green when when caught. ca ught. The The flesh fiesh of the lobs ter is is more more highly highly flavoured flavoured than than that that of of the the spiny spiny lobster lobster or or
crayfish. crayfish. There There are are many many ways ways of of preparing preparing lobsterlobster. It It can can be be eaten eaten hot hot or or cold cold like like the the spiny spiny lobster lobster (q.v.)' (g.v.). This Lobster Lobster i I'am6ricaine. l'amricaine. uotrllno HOMARD A r'lrvrfntcltt{s L'AMRICAINE - This

lobsteril'amricaine I'amri,caine(Larousse) How to toeut cutup upaalobster How (Larousse) headin intwo twolengthwise; lengthwise; 5.Cutthe Cut thehead intwo; two;5. tail14. Cut thecarcase carcasein tiporthe ofthetail; 3. Cutoff offthe offthe leftc1aws; claws;3. rightclaws; claws;2. Cutoff Cutoff offthe 1.l.Cut the right 2. Cut the left CUl the tip 4. Cutthe cutup uP Lobstercompletely comPletelY eut 6.Lobster 6.

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LOBSTER
dish is of Provenal is of Provengal origin. origin. Raw Raw lobster lobster sauted saut6ed in in oil oiland and dish the use use of of tomatoes are characteristic tomatoes are characteristic features featuresof ofMediterMediterthe ranean cookery. cookery. ranean Towards the middle of the middle of the nineteenth century, the nineteenth century, this dish thisdish Towards provenCale (Gouff). (Gotff).The was called called lobs lobster d la la provenale The name name was ter lobster d l'amricaine l'amiricaine was was applied applied at at that that time time to to aa dish dish lobster poached lobster. made from from poached lobster. made A certain certain confusion confusion had had arisen arisen over over these names. these two two names. A provengale, simpler Lobster prepare and d la la provenale, simpler to and less to prepare lesssubtle in subtle in Lobster flavour, usurped usurped both name and position of both the the name and the the position oflobster lobster d flavour, I'amiricaine. There There is is still doubt as still sorne some doubt as to to who who invented invented l'amricaine. name lobster lobster d l'amricaine, I'amiricaine, the the name dish itself itself having the dish having been been the known for for a a very very long long time. time. known it sorne anonymous cook, master chef cook, as some anonymous as the the master chef Escoffier Escoffier Was it would have have us who, having known us believe, who, known the dish in in Nice, Nice, the dish would exported it it to to America, whence whence it was was subsequently subsequently rereexported irnported into into France? France? Was it sorne Was it perhaps restaurateur, perhaps some restaurateur, imported Fraisse of of Noel Noel and and Peter's Restaurant, who gave this Peter's Restaurant, name who gave this name Fraisse to the dish in in honour honour of patron? of sorne the dish some transatlantic transatlantic patron? to Curnonsky settled settled this this controversy controversy once once and and for for all all by Curnonsky investigating the matter. He the matter. He discovered discovered that that aa certain Pierre Fraisse, born born in in Ste, years in Site, chef chef for for a number of a number of years in Pierre (mainly in the United United States States (mainly in Chicago), Chicago), set up a a restaurant restaurant set up the called Peter's Peter's in in the the boulevard boulevard des des Italiens. Italiens. It It was was the the called of the the Second Second Empire. Empire. One One evening in in an an attempt attempt to to period of serve a party of of tourists tourists who who had had little little time to to spare, he he followed the Provenal Provengal recipe, recipe, starting starting with with the living living The delighted lobster. The delighted clients clients asked for the asked for name of the name of the lobster. the wonderful dish. dish. Still Still under under the influence of the influence of his his American American wonderful 'Homard sojourn, Fraisse replied: i l'amricaine'. I' am6ricaine'. : 'Homard This lobster lobster would be more American, perhaps, if American, perhaps, be even even more if whisky were used instead of of Cognac. used instead to the the dissection of live lobster lobster we of a a live To those who object to we dedicate the following lines: lines: dedicate An American American was uncertain An the best way to cook cook lobster Of the Why not just leave it for now homard d l'Amricaine I'Amiricaine .... Said the homard .. Provengal cooks cooks prepare lobsters lobsters and and spiny lobsters in Provenal spiny lobsters in the Provengal ina coulis(q.v.) (q.v.) oftomatoes Provenal fashion, in a coulis of tomatoes flavoured with onion, onion, garlic and and parsley. parsley. Take a hen lobster weighing a hen weighing 1 Take I kg. kg. (generous 2 2 lb.). lb.). Cut Cut joints. Split the tail into slices, following the marks of the joints. the marks Split the carcase in two, lengthwise. Crack the the shel! shell of the the c1aws. claws. Remove all al! the the gritty substance substance near near the the head. head. Keep Keep the the coral and the liver, which will be be used used to to thicken the the sauce. Season the portions of the lobster with salt and and pepper. Heat 4 to 6 tablespoons tablespoons olive oil in a pan. Put in the pieces of lobster, lobster, brown quickly on both sides and ove from and rem remove (3 tablespoons) finely chopped the pan. pan. Put 2 tablespoons (3 in the pan. Cook Cook slowly until until very very tender, stirring onion in frequently frequently with a a wooden wooden spoon. When almost spoon. When almost cooked, add 2 chopped add chopped shallots. shallots. Stir, Stir, mixing rnixing thoroughly. thoroughly. Put Put 2 2 coarsely chopped chopped tomatoes tomatoes (peeled, (peeled, squeezed coarsely squeezed and and with seeds removed) removed) into the pan. Add a touch touch of garlic, garlic, and and 1 I tablespoon chopped parsley and tarragon. tarragon. tablespoon of of herbs and Lay the the pieces pieces oflobster Lay on this foundation ofherbs vegetables. It dl. dl. $ pint, 3 ~ cup) cup) dry white vegetables. Moisten Moisten with with l| tablespoons, scant + cup) fish/unel fishfomet (q.v.) and wine, I 1 dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, wine, (1 cup) cup) brandy. brandy. Season Season with cayenne pepper. pepper. 4 tablespoons tablespoons ($ 4 the boil, cover coyer the the pan, and and cook on on Bring the the mixture mixture to the Bring the stove s!ove or or in in the the oven oyen for 20 minutes. the Drain the the lobster lobster pieces pieces and pick out the flesh flesh from from the the Drain and the the tail. tai!. claws and claws the shells. shells. Keep warm wann while the the Serve in in the the halves halves of the Serve is being made. made. sauce is sauce The sauce. sauce. Boil down down the the pan pan juices by half. half. Add the the coral coral The and liver liver of of the the lobster lobster pounded and mixed mixed with with butter. butter. and

Whiskover overaahigh panfrom highflame. flame.Remove Removethe fromthe thepan Whisk thefire fireand, and, still whisking whisking to toensure ensureaasmooth smoothand andcreamy creamysauce, still sauce,add add (4oz., g.(4 100g. cup)butter oz.,tIcup) buttercut cutinto intofragments. fragments. 100 Seasonwith withaalittle littlecayenne cayenne pepperand anda a squeezeof Season of lemon juice. Pour Pourthis sauce, thissa over the lobster, uce, piping hot,over and sprinkle with withchopped chopped parsley. Lobsteraspic. aspic.ASPIC esrrcDE DEHOMARD rnoMARD - - Line Lineaamould mouldwith with jelly and lay lay in initit thick thick slices slicesof oflobster lobster interlaced interlaced with and withstrips strips of jelly.Fill truffie, decorated decoratedwith with jelly. Fillthe truffie, themould mouldto tothe thetop with topwith jelly.Leave clearwhite white fish fishjelly. Leave on onice iceto clear toset. set. Itcan caneither either be beturned turned out outstraight It straight onto dishor ontothe thedish orserved served jelly. onaaslice ofbuttered buttered bread. slice of bread.Decorate Decoratewith on with jelly. Boited Iobster. lobster.HOMARD HoMARDBOUILLI BourLLr - -proceed for Boiled Proceedas forLobster Inbsterd as (see below). la nage(see below). la This dish isserved dish is hotwith withaasauce served hot sauce usuallyserved served with with boiled fish fish or or shellfish. boiled shellfish. When When it it is iseaten eaten cold,ititshould should be be served with with aasauce served for cold saucesuitable suitable for cold fish fishor orshellfish. shellfish. Lobster Lobster il la labordelaise. bordelaise.HOMARD HoMARD ALA r,lBORDELAISE nonosre$e - - Use Use lobsters called small small lobsters called demoiselles demoisellesof of Cherbourg, Cherboarg, or large orlarge lobsters split in lobsters in half half lengthwise. lengthwise. Large Large lobsterscan prepared can be beprepared dla labordelaise bordelaise by bysplitting splitting them into sections asfor them into for lobster sections as lobster dl'amricaine. l'amiricaine. Proceed Proceed as as (seeCRA for YFISH). for Crayfish Crayfish labordelaise dla bordelaise (see CRAYFISH). T-SAV ARIN - Cook Lobster Lobster Brillat-Savarin. Brillat$avarin. HOMARD HoMARDBRILLA BRTLLAT-sAvA,Rnr - Cook a a large large lobster (seeCOURTlobster in in Court-bouillon Court-bouillon XII XII (see COURTBOUILLON). BOUILLON). Drain. Drain. Cut Cut off off the andshell the tail tail and shellil. it. Simmer Simmer slices slices of of the flesh in (sen SAUCE), the flesh in aa thick thick American American sauce sauce(see SAUCE), which tel y, adding prepared separa which has has been been prepared separately, adding to to it it sorne some of of the court-bouillon in the court-bouillon n which which the the lobster lobster was was cooked, cooked, boiled boiled jelly. down down almost almost to a jelly. to a Shell Shell the claws and the claws and the the carcase. carcase. Chop the flesh into a coarse (q.v.). Add coarse salpicon salpicon (g.v.). Add equal equal quantitiesof of salpicon salpicon of of cooked cooked truffies trufres and and mushrooms. mushrooms. Simmer all these Simmer ail these ingredients ingredients in (see SAUCE) rn a a Curry Curry sauce sauce (see SAUCE) made made with with the rest of the rest of the the lobster lobster court-bouillon. court-bouillon. Cook - the Cook courgettes, cut into thick cut into thick slices slicesthe same same number number as as there are lobster slices there are slices -- slowly slowly in in oil. oil. Place Place the the slices slices of lobster and of lobster and courgette courgette altemately alternately in in aa ring inside inside a a baked baked flan flan crust. crust. Put Put the salpicon in in the the salpicon the middle middle and coyer cover with with American American sauce. sauce. On On top top of of each each slice slice of of lobster lobster place place a a thick thick strip strip of of truffie. trufle. Lobster Lobcter cardinal. cardinal. HOMARD HoMARD CARDINAL cARDTNAL -- Boil Boil the the lobster lobster in in Court-bouillon (see COURT-BOUILLON) Court-bouillon XII XII (see COURT-BOUILLON) untiJ it is is until it cooked. cooked. Drain, Drain, cool cool a a little, little, and and split it lengthwise. Remove split it Remove the from the the flesh flesh from the taU tail and and cut cut it it into into slices slices of equal thickness. thickness. Cut Cut off off the the c1aws, claws, take out the take out the flesh, flesh, and and dice dice it it to make a to make a salpicon (g.v.). Add an (q.v.).Add quantity of an egual equal quantity of diced diced truffles. trufles. Bind Bind the the salpicon with (see SAUCE). with a a Lobster sauce sauce (sec SAUCE). Fill the place halves of the halves of the lobster shell the lobster shell with with the salpicon Place the salpicon. on on top top the the slices slices of of lobster lobster interspersed with with strips strips of of truffles. Pour on on sorne truffies. Pour some lobster lobster sauce. grated sauc. Sprinkle with with grated cheese cheese and and melted melted butter. butter. Place Place the the halves halves on on a a baking baking sheet and brown brown them sheet and them quickly in the oven. Garnish the oyen. Garnish with parsley. with curly curly parsley. en chemise. HOMARD EN CHEMISE Plunge Lobster en chenise. HoMARD EN cHEMrsE - Plunge a a lobster lobster into into boiling boiling water water to to kill kill il. it. Season Season with with salt and salt and pepper. pepper. Baste Baste with with oil oil or or melted melted butter. butter. Wrap Wrap it it in in a a double double thickness thickness of of oiled greaseproof paper paper and and tie with string. tie with string. on a sheet, and bake in a hot oyen for Place Place a baking sheet, and bake in a hot oven for 40 40 to to 50 50 minutes for for a a medium-sized lobster. lobster. Untie, Untie, and and serve it serve it in the paper in in which which it it has has been been cooked. cooked. Suitable dressings dressings are are half-melted half-melted Matre Mattre d'htel d'h6tel butter butter (see BUTTER, Compound (see BUTTER, Compound butters), hrtters), or or any any sauce sauce usually usually served with grilled fish: served with fish: Amricaine, Amhricaine, Barnaise, Bdarnaise, Bercy, Bercy, Bordelaise, Indienne, Ravigo Ravigote Borde laise, H ongroise, Indienne, (see SAUCE). te (see SAUCE). in cream. Lobster in Loboter cream. HOMARD HoMARD A LA ra CRME cninrs -- Cut Cut up up the the Lobster amricaine. Saut lobster as for Lobster as for dr I'amiricaine. portions in Saut6 the the portions in butter. Drain off the butter. Pour 3 tablespoons (scant butter. Drain off the butter. Pour 3 tablespoons (scant iI
562 562

LOBSTER LOBSTER
cup) cup) brandy brandy into into the the pan pan and and mix mix with with the the pan pan juices. juices. Add Add

5 dl. dl. (scant (seant pint, pint, 2t 2i cups) cups) cream. cream. Season Season wittr with salt salt and and a a 5
touch touch of of cayenne cayenne pepper. pepper. Cover Coyer the the pan pan and and simmer' simmer. Serve Serve the the lobster lobs ter in in a a pie pie dish dish (in (in or or out out of of its its shell). shell). Boil Boil down down the the cooking cooking sauc sauce to to half half its its volume, volume, add add 50 50 gg. (2 (2 oz., oz., cup) butter butter and and a a few few drops drops of of lemon lemon juice, juice, and and strain strain * cup) through muslin. muslin. Pour Pour this this sauce sauce over over the the lobster. lobster. through Lobster croquettes. croquettes. cRoQUETTBs CROQUETTES DE DE HoMARD HOMARD - Made Made from from Lobster lobster lobster salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) in in the the same same way way as as plain plain croquettes. croquettes. If If desired desired a salpicon salpicon of of mushrooms mushrooms and and truffies truffies may may be be added. added. (See (See HORS-D'(EUVRE, HORS-D'UVRE, Hot Hot hors'd'euvre, hors-d'uvre, Croquettes.) quettes.) Lobster la franco-am6ricaine. franco-amricaine. HoMARD HOMARD A Le LA rnlucoFRANCOIobster euinrcuxn AMRICAINE - This This method method of of cooking cooking lobster lobs ter is is a a variant variant of of the recipe recipe for for Lobster Lobster d I'amiricaine. l'amricaine. the Plunge 2 2 lobsters lobsters in in boiling boiling water. water. Cut Cut off off the claws and crack crack them. them. Split the the lobsters lobsters in in half half lengthwise. Drain Drain the the and scrape them them out, keeping the the liver liver and and the the carcases and liquid. Simmer 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) chopped onion onion and and Simmer I 1 tablespoon tablespoon chopped shallot in 4 tablespoons (} (t cup) oil. oil. season with salt and freshly ground ground Add the lobsters, and season pepper. pepper. Tomato sauce thtn Tomato Pour over 3 dl. (+ (t pint, l| li cups) rather thin sauce glasses of (see (see SAUCE). Boil for 5 minutes. Add 2 small glasses of 18 oven for the pan pan and and bake in in the the oyen for 16 16 to to 18 Cover the brandy. Coyer minutes. a serving dish and keep on a thero on Drain the lobsters. Put them it back in warm. in the pan. Add the warm. Strain the sauce and put it (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) meat essence, liquid and liver, 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) ftaming flaming glass Madeira, 2 tablespoons (3 Madeira, 2 t glass chopped sweet peppers. Boil down I or 2 sm and 1 small brandy and ail chopped and pour Over over the lobsters. add butter, butter, and this this sauce, sauce, add a medium-sized Plunge a cnn rJ loboter. HOMARD HoMARD GRILL Grilled Grilled lobster. - Plunge it split it lobster into into boiling salt water for 3 minutes. Drain, split it. pour melted and pour melted butter over it. season, and lengthwise, season, in in two two lengthwise, a moderate heat. Grill on a Grill on removed, easily removed, flesh can be easily can be so that the the ftesh Crack claws so Crack the the claws fresh parsley. garnished with fresh and a napkin napkin garnished and serve serve on on a ot Ravigote butter or d'h6tel butter Maitre d'htel Serve melted butter, Matre Serve with melted (see BUTTER, butters). Compound butters). butter BUTTER, Compound butter (see DwERNoIS ITENRI DUVERNOlS HoMARD HENRI Lobster Duvermis. HOMARD Lobster Henri Henri Duvernois. joint it d l'amriI'amdri for Lobster Lobster it as as for or joint lengthwise or Split a lobster lengthwise Split a it in paprlka. Saut in butter. and paprika. Saut6 it caine. with salt salt and caine. Season Season with tablespoons 4 tablespoons pan. Add butter 4 the butter Add to to the Take it out Take it out of of the the pan. cup) julienne (q.v.) (q.v.) of 4 tablespoons (* cup) leeks and and 4 tablespoons (t of leeks (t cup) julienne $ cup) in butter. butter. mushrooms mushrooms tossed tossed in (* l* dl. dl. (! pan. Moisten with It in the Moisten with the pan. lobster back back in Put Put the the lobster (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 and 2 pint, pint, t cup) sherry sherry and 3 cup) lid and and with aa lid cover with fresh cream, cream, coyer add fresh brandy. Boil down, down, add brandy. Boil simmer. simmer. pilaf of rice a pilaf with a of rice Garnish with a long long dish. dish. Garnish Put lobster on on a Put the the lobster 2 add 2 sauce,add down the the sauce, Boil down arranged along side. Boil arranged along each each side. pour over lobster. over the the lobster. (3 tablespoons) and pour butter and tablespoons (3 tablespoons) butter tablespoons This dish dish HoMARD -- This DB HOMARD cRoMEsQUIs DE Lobster kromeskies. CROMESQUIS Lobster kromeskies. course. It It a light light main main course. as a or as is as a a hot hot hors-d'uvre hors-d'euvre or is served served as (q.v.) either plain or with aa or with either plain salpicon (q.v.) is from lobster lobster salpicon is made made from (see SAUCE), diced which diced SAUCE), to to which sauce (see Velout Bdchanrel sauce Velouti or or Bchamel further For further added. For have been been added. truffles and mushrooms mushrooms have truffies and hors-d'euvre. Hot hors-d'uvre. details HORS-D'(EUVRE, Hot details see see HORS-D'UVRE, A AU COURT-BOUILLON HoMARD AU coLJRT-Boutrr"oN Lobster la marinire. mariniCre. HOMARD Inbctcr la dish. for this this dish. are used usedfor lobsters are small lobsters LA Very small lr,lRrNSRE - - Very r,l MARINIRE (see CRA CRAYFISH). lamarinire tnariniire (see Proceed YFISH). asfor for Crayfish Crayfish dla Proceed as la Lobsters dla calledLobsters often called wayare are often Lobsters in this this way Lobsterscooked cooked in nage. nage. as for for Proceedas HoMARD MORNAY MoRNAY - Proceed Lobster Mornay. HOMARD LobsterMornay. (se SAUCE) SAUCE) sauce (see Mornay sauce Lobster cardinal, substituting substituting Mornay Lobster cardinal, for lobster sauce. for lobster sauce.

HoMARD HOMARD MoRNAY MORNAY - Proceed Proceed as as for for Brill Brill in in scallop scallop sftel/s shells (see (see

Lobster Lobster Mornay Mornay in in scallop scaIlop shells shells (hoQ. (hot). coQUILLES COQUILLES

DE DE

As As with with all ail other other scallop seallop shells, shells, whether whether filled filled with with poultry, poultry, fish fish or or other other ingredients, ingredients, the the shells shells should should be be potato mixture decorated decorated with with a a border border of of Duchess Duchess potato mixture (see (see

(see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Brown Brown in in a a very very hot hot oven' oyen.

BRILL) BRILL) or or any any other other fish fish in in scallop scallop shells, shells, using using a a salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) and and thick thick slices slices of of lobster lobster coated coated with with Mornay Mornay sauce sauce

POTATOES) POT ATOES) piped piped through through a a forcing-bag forcing-bag with with a a fluted ftuted nozzle, nozzle, before before they they are are filled. filled. Hot Hot lobster lobster scallop scallop shells shells can ean also also be be made made with with other other sauces sauces such such as as Cardinal, Cardinal, Nantua, Nantua, Normande, Normande, White White wine wine sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Cold Cold lobster lobster mousse. mousse. Moussn MOUSSE DE DE HoMARD HOMARD FRoIDE FROIDE - Add Add to to a a mirepoix mirepoix (q.v.) (q.v.) some sorne dry dry white white wine wine and and 3 3 tablespoons tablespoons and in this (scant (seant t i cup) cup) flaming ftaming brandy. brandy. Cook Cook the the lobster lobster in this and leave leave to to cool. cool. Drain Drain the the lobster lobster and and take take it it out out of of the the shell. shell. Pound the the flesh flesh finely finely in in a a mortar, mortar, slowly slowly adding adding for for every every 500 500 g. g. (18 (18 oz.) oz.) flesh ftesh (net (net weight) weight) 2 2 dl. dl. (+ (t pint, pint, scant seant cup) cup) cold cold Veloutd Velout smtce sauce (sw (see SAUCE) SAUCE) based based on on fish fish stock. stock. Rub Rub this this mixture mixture through through a a sieve. sieve. Put Put the the pur6e pure thus thus obtained obtained in in a a pan pan on ice. ice. Stir Stir with with a a spatula spatula for for a a few few minutes. minutes. Add Add 4 4 to to (see ASPIC) Fish aspic 5 5 tablespoons cold cold Fish aspic ielly jelly (see ASPIC) and and about about cream. (5 pint, sligbtly whipped scant cup) 2 2 dl. dl. (t pint, seant cup) fresh, fresh, slightly whipped cream. Season. Season. lobster fish jelly. Line a Line a plain plain mould mould with with fish jelly. Fill Fill with with the the lobs ter garnish. or sorne some other other garnish. and decorate mousse mousse and decorate with with truffies truffles or on ice to set. set. Put it it on ice to of a slice dish or or on on a slice of a serving serving dish onto a out onto mousse out Turn the the mousse Turn jelly and a and a chopped jelly with chopped Surround with bread. Surround thickly buttered bread. thickly cro0tons. of jelly border border of jelly crotons. covered and covered a bowl in a bowl and be served served in also be may also mousse may The mousse The may jelly. A and truffles trufles may lobster salpicon of of lobs A salpicon fish aspic aspic jelly. with fish with ter and mixture. added to to the the mixture. be added be (mousses served in individuaI individual served in morsselines (mousses lobster mousselines Cold lobster Cold made These are are made FRoIDEs DB HOMARD HoMARD FROIDES portiom). MOUSSELINES MoussELIl.IEs DE - These portions). either mousse. Serve Serve either lobster mousse. Cold lobster as Cold mixturc as from the the same same mixture from jelly and and decorated decorated with jelly lined with moulds lined cylindrical moulds in small small cylindrical in porcelain cups. cups. little silver or porcelain silver or or in in !ittle with truffles, trufres, or with euvle or as a a or as hors-d uvre as hors-d' can be be served served as mousselines can Lobster mousselines Lobster garnish with large with large as a a garnish may be be used used as or may main course, course, or light main light fish. cold fish. cold

lanage nagc [obsterdla Lobster

as Proceed as (colQ. HOMARD ALA rl NAGE r*lcre- - Proceed HoMARD lanage nage(cold). LobsterI la Lobster (seebelow). (ftal) (see to loboters to Leave the the lobsters below). Leave nage(hot) h nage Lobsterdla for Lobster for withaa init. Serve with it.Serve andserve serve them thern in court-bouillon and coolin inthe thecourt-bouillon cool (s* SAUCE, Cold sauce (see SAUCE Cold Tartare sauce sauce or ot Tartare Mavonnaise sauce Mayonnaise

563 563

LOBSTER
sauces), or or any any other othersauce sauce usually usually served served with with cold cold fish fish 'or br sauces), shellfish. shellfish. Lobster ili la la nage (hot). HOMARD uorralno A A LA m NAGE NAGE - - Boil Boil some some Lobster small lobsters, lobsters, of the type type known as asdemoiselles demoisellesof ofCherbourg Cherbourg smaH or Dieppe, Dieppe, in in white white wine wine Court-bouillon (see COURTCourt-bouillon XII XII (sec COURTor BOUILLON). BOUILLON). Serve hot hot in in the court-bouillon, with the court-bouillon, with sauce sauce sUltable suitable for for Serve poached fish. fish. poached Lobster Newburg. Newburg. HOMARD HoMARD A LA r.,c. NEWBURG Nswsuxc -- Ingredients. Ingredients. Lobs.er 2 lobsters lobsters weighing (l lb.) weighing about about 400 400 to g. (l to 500 500 g. lb.) each, each, 175 175 g. 2 (6 oz., cup) butter, 3 dl. (} pint, l* tups) sherry, 3 dl. a+ (6 OZ., ,t butter, 3 dl. (t pnt, cups) sherry, 3 dl. pint, lf cups) concentrated (+ pint, concentrated fish fish stock, 3 pint, It 3 dl. dl. (t lf cups) pint, I! (ser-, SAUCE), 4 dl. (i pint, scant 2 cups) Velouti sauce sauce (see Velout SAUCE), 4 dl. pint, scant 2 cups) paprika. cream, salt, salt, paprika. cream, Method. Wash Wash the lobsters and the lobsters and joint them them as as for for Lobsler Lobster d Me/hod. I'amdricaine. Remove Remove the liver and keep for the liver for use later. Season use later. Season l'amricaine. the lobsters lobsters with with salt paprika. Brown the salt and and paprika. lobsters in the lobsters in the (3 oz., g. (3 75 g. oz., 6 6 tablespoons) tablespoons) butter. butter. Cover pan and Cover the and cook the pan cook 75 for 12 minutes. 12 minutes. for Drain off off the the butter butter and and add add the the sherrv. Boil down over Drain a high high flame. flame. Add Add the fish stock the fish stock and and ihe velout veloutd sauce. sauce. a Keeping the pan covered, the pan covered, simmer gently for simmer gently for 20 20 minutes. minutes. Keeping Take out out the the pieces of oflobster and arrange arrange them them in in a a deep deep Take lobster and (The tail dish. (The tail pieces may may be be shelled.) shelled.) dish. Boil down down the sauce, sauce, add add the the cream, cream, and and test test the the sauce. sauce. Boil When il it coats coats the the back back ofa of a spoon, spoon, add add the previously liver, previously the Iiver, When rubbed through through a a fine fine sieve sieve and and blended blended with with the the rest rest of of the the rubbed butter. Mil< Mix the quickly by the sauce sauce quckly by whisk:.ing. whisking. Pour Pour over over the the butter. pieces of oflobster. pieces lobs ter. This dish is sometimes dish is sometimes called called lobs/er lobster saut sauti a a la la crme. uime. This parisienne. HOMARD Lobster i la la parisienne. HoMARD A LA LA PARISIENNE rARTSTENNE Cut - Cut Lobster into slices of of equal equal thickness the tail tail of of a a medium-sized medium-sized lOlO slices thickness the lobster, cooked cooked in a court-bouillon court-bouillon and and cooled. cooled. Coat Coat with with lobster, in a gelatine-strengthened mayonnaise and decorate strips gelallne-stlre.l1lgtlherled mayonnaise and decorate with with strips of truffie dipped dipped in mayonnaise jelly. in the the half-set half-set mayonnaise jelly. jelly, fin with Line with vegetable salad salad mixed Line a a mould mould with with jelly, fill mixed with diced truffies with the the rest rest of of the the lobster, lobster, diced, diced, and diced truffies in in mayonnaise. Turn out a dish, mayonnaise. Tum out onto onto a dish, arrange arrange the the prepared prepared lobster lobster slices slices round round it it in in a a border, border, and and garnish garnish with with chopped chopped jelly. jelly. jelly may also The The slices slices coated coated with with jelly may also be he served served as as a a border border to to Parisian Parisian salad salad (see (see SALAD) SALAD) which which should should be piled pled up up into into a a small small dome dome in in the the middle. middle. Cold Cold lobster lobster i li la la parisienne parisienne or or i la la nrcse. russe. HoMAno HOMARD rnon FROID A pARrsrENM, A LA RussE LA LA LA RUSSE - Proceed Proceed according according to to the the recipes for Sptny lobster parisienne (see lobster d li la la parisenne or or d h la russe russe (see

Line the thescallop scallop shells withshredded shells with shredded lettuce lettuceseasoned seasoned with with Une pepper, oil salt, pepper, oil and and vinegar. On foundation put a On this this foundation salt, lobster salpicon, salpicon, seasoned seasoned with French French dressing dressing and and sprinkled lobster with chopped chopped chervil chervil and parsley. and parsley. with I or Put 1 2 thick or 2 thick slices lobster in slices of of lobster in each each shell. shell. Cover Cover with with Put mayonnaise. Decorate Decorate the the top top with with fillets fillets of anchovy, capers mayonnaise. and olives. olives. Garnish Garnish with with letluce lettuce heans hearts and and quartered hardand boiled eggs. eggs. boiled Lobster in in scallop parisienne. COQUILLES scallop shells shells i la la parisienne. coeurLlEs DE DE Lobster panlsENNE - Proceed HoMARD A LA Ll PARISIENNE as for for lAJbsler Lobster in in scol/op scallop HOMARD - Proceed as (cold), using shells (co/d), using vegetable salad salad dressed dressed with with mayonnaise shells or French French dressing, dressing, instead of of lettucc. lettuce. Decorate Decorate with strips strips or of truftle, capers, lettuce trufle, capers, lettuce hearts hearts and quartered hard~boled and quartered hard-boiled of

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butter. butter. Line Line a a domed domed mould mould with with Rrce Rice pilaf pilaf (sw (see PILAF), PILAF), and and fill fiJi with with the the lobster. lobster. Tum Turn out out the the mould mould on on a a serving serving dish. dish. Surround Surround with with Lobster Lobs/eT sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) or or any any other other sauce sauce suitable suitable for for shellfish. shellfish. Lobster Lobster risotto. risotto. Rrsorro RISOTTO DE DE HoMARD HOMARD - Proceed Proceed as as for for Inbster Lobs/erpilaf. pilaf Fill FiH a a ring ring mould mou Id with with risotto. risotto. Turn Turn it it out, out, and and heap heap pieces pieces of of lobster lobster in in the the middle. middle. Lobster Lobster salad. salado slrlpE SALADE DE DE HoMARo HOMARD - See See SALAD, SALAD, Lobster Lobs/er salad. sa lad. Cold Cold lobster lobster with with various various sauces. sauces.. HoMARD HDMARD FRorD FROID AvEc AVEC sAUcEs SAUCES DrvERsEs nrVERSES - Boil Boil the the lobster lobster in in a a court-bouillon court-bouillon (q.v.). (q .v,). Leave Leave to to cool. cool. Split Split it it in in two IwO lengthwise. lengthwise. Crack Crack the the shell shell of of the the claws claws so 50 that Ihal the the flesh ftesh can cau be taken taken out out easily. easily. Garnish Gamish with with fresh fresh parsley or or lettuce lettuce hearts. hearts. Serve Serve with with Mayonnaise Mayonnaise sauce or any other cold cold sauce, sauce, such such as as Gribiche, Gribiche, Rdmoulade, Rmoulade. Tartare (see SAUCE, .... " 'J"'~-'--. Cold Cold sauces\. sauces). (cold). Iobster in scallop shells Lobster in scallop shells (cold). coqunrrs COQUILLES FRorDEs FROIDES DE DE HoMARD HOMARD - This This dish dish is is usually usually made made from from scraps. scraps.

SPINY LOBSTER). Lobster Lobster pilaf. pilaf. rn.,u PILAF DE DE HoMARD HOMARD - Coarsely Coarsely dice dice the the flesh ftesh of of boiled boiled lobsters lobsters or or cut cut it it into into pieces. pieces. Brown Brown lightly lightly in in

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Lobster in in scallop shells shells vert-pr6. coeurI,lrs DE HoMARD pnE Line with shredded watercress shells with watercress leaves leaves - Line the shells in a a French French dressing. dressing. Place Place a a salpicon salpicon and and slis lobster on slices of of lobster on in green mayonnaise, top. Coat Coat with with green mayonnaise. Decorate Decorate with with slices slices of of top. gherkin and and chopped yolks of chopped yolks of hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs. Surround Surround gherkin with a a border border of of French French beans beans which which have have been boiled boiled in in with salt water, water, drained, drained, diced diced and and seasoned seasoned with French French dressing. dressing. salt Iobster souffl. soufl6. SOUFFL sourrr6 DE DE HOMARD HoMARD -- Pound Pound in in a a mortar Lobster 300 g. (II oz.) (net weight). oz.) cooked lobster (net cooked lobster weight). Rub Rub Ihrough through a a 300 fine sieve. Add Add 2 dl. dl. (1 scant cup) (see cup) Bchamel Bichamel sauce sauce (see fine $ pint, seant previously cooked with SAUCE) previously with a a liule little of the lobster stock. stock. SAUCE) Season with pepper and with salt, salt, pepper grated nutmeg. and grated nutmeg. Blend Blend in in 4 Season yolks. Add egg yolks. Add 4 4 stiffly stiffiy heaten beaten egg whtes. whites. egg Put the mixture in the mixture in a a buttered souffl dish and soufr6 dish and cook cook in in a a Put slow oven for for 25 25 to to 30 30 minutes. minutes. Serve at once. slow Little lobster lobster souffls soufr6s can can be served as as an an hors-d'uvre hors-d'euvre or Little light man main course. These are made from the same mixture mixture as ligot lobster souffi6, but are cooked cooked n in small small bulteroo buttered cups cups or lobster souffl, but arc cases. cases. Lobster BRocnE Plunge a alarge Lobster on on the spit. Horrllnn HOMARD A re LA BROCHE - Plunge large live into boiling a few seconds to kill it live lobster lobster into boiling salt water for a few seconds kil! il instantly. Put the lobster Season with salt, pepper, thyme, lobster on a spit. Season and or oil, and powdered powdered bay bay leaf. Baste Baste with wth melted butter or with with a a dripping dripping pan pan or or other other suitable dish underneath. undemeath. put Put into into the the pan pan a a few few tablespoons of of dry dry white wine and and 2 2 tablespoons "'.UJ\."'pU'JU.> (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) butter. butter. Cook Cook in in front from of a very hot hot fire, basting frequently. A A lobster Jobster weighing 1t kg. kg. (about (about 3 3 lb.) lb.) needs to to be cooked for 40 to to 45 minutes. Remove Remove the the lobster lobster from from the the spit and arrange on a long dish. dish. Serve with with the the juice collected in in the the dripping pan. Lobster Lobster on on the the spit can can be he served with with spicy sauces such as as Biarnaise, Barnaise, Curuy, Curry, Ravigote Ravigole (see (see SAUCE). ...,,,,'--"'.......... ,. Lobster Lobster thermidor. thermido:r. HoMARD HOMARD rrrERMrEoR THERMIDOR - Split Split a a lobster lobster in in two, [WO, lengthwise. Iengthwise. Crack Crack the the shell sheH of of the the claws c1aws and and pick out the the meat. meaL Season Season both both halves halves of of the the lobster lobster with with salt. pour Pour oil oil over over them them and and roast roast in in the the oven oven for for 15 15 to to 20 20 minutes. minules. Dice white wine, Dice the the flesh. flesh. Make Make a a stock stock of ofwhite wine, frshfumet tshfume/ and meat meat juices, juices, flavoured flavoured with wilh chervil, chervil, tarragon tarragon and and chopped chopped shallots. shallots. Boil Boil it it down down to ta a a concentrated concentrated consistency. Add Add to tO this ths a a little liHle very very thick thick Bichamel Bechamel sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) and and some some English English mustard. mustard. Boil Boil the the sauce sauce for for a a few few seconds, seconds, then then whisk whisk in in fresh fresh butter butter (one-third (one-third of of the the volume volume of of the the sauce). sauce). Line Line the the two two halves ha Ives of ofthe the carcase carcase with with a a little little of ofthis this sauce. sauce. Fill Fil! them them with with the the flesh ftesh of ofthe the lobster, la bster, coverwith cover wi th the the remainder remainder of ofthe the sauce, sauce, sprinkle sprinkle with wilh grated grated Parmesan Parmesan and and melted melted butter butter and and brown brown quickly quickly in in the the oven. oven. (This (This is is the the recipe recipe for for lobster lobster thermidor thermidor given to us by M. M. Tony Tony Girod, Girod, for for many years master master chef of the famous Parisian Parisian restaurant, restaurant, the the Cafi de de Paris.) Paris.) This prepared in a This dish dish is is often oft enin a different different way. way. The The tail tail of of the the lobster lobsteris is split splitin in half and grilled, grilled, then then the the flesh flesh is is cut cut into into thick thick slices slices and and put put back back in in the the shells, sheHs, which which have have been been

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LORRAINE LORRAINE coatd coated with with a a little little cream cream sau@ sauce seasoned seasoned with wth
mustard. mustard. They They are are covered covered with with the the same same sauce sauce and and browned browned in in the the oven. FRENCH CULINARY CULINARY APPELLATIONS.) APPELLATIONS.) oven. (See (See FRENCH

LORRAII\ELORRAINE - District District of ofhigh high gastronomic gastronomic repute' repute. Here Here the the connoisseur connoisseur of of good good cooking eooking will will savour savour many many succulent succulent

LOCUST LOCUST or or CAROB CAROB TREE. TREE. cARouBE CAROUBE - Leguminous Leguminous plant plant which which grows grows in in the the East East and and in in the the Mediterranean. Mediterranean. The The long long pod con tains numerous numerous seeds seeds and and a a rather rather insipid insipid sweet sweet pod contains pulp. pulp.

LOIN. LOIN. clnnf CARR - The The front front part part of of a a hindquarter hindquarter of of beef, beef,
mutton, mutton, lamb, lamb, pork park or or veal veal with with the the flank flank removed. removed.

dishes, dishes, and and will will find find white, white, red red and and rose ros wines, wines, all ail delightful' delightful, though though some sorne are are more more fragrant fragrant than than others. others. Culinrry Culinllry specialities specialfties - The The dishes dishes of of Lorraine Lorraine are, are, for for the the most most part, part, substantial. substantial. Heading Heading the the list list of of the the culinary culinary specialities specialities of of what wha t was was once once the the ancient ancient province province of of Lotharingie Lotharingie is is the the potie, pote, the the national national soup soup of of this this region. region.

LONGCHAMP -A A broth broth fundamental fundamental to to Parisian Parisian cooking' eooking. LONGCHAMP shredded shredded sorrel sorrel and and vermicelli vermieelli in in consomm6 consomm and and adding a a puree pure of of fresh fresh green green peas. peas. (See (See SOUPS AND AND BROTHS.) BROTHS.)

with with eggs, eggs, cream cream and and lean lean bacon. bacon. It lt is is also also calledfdouse. caUed fouse.

in in the the gastronomic gastronomie history history of of Lorraine. Lorraine. This This is is a a tart tart made made

Then Then there there is is the the quiche, quiche, a a dish dish which which goes goes back back centuries centuries

It It is is made made by by cooking eooking

LONGE LONGE - This This French French term term should refer refer only to to the the top top
part part of of the the loin of of veal veal (see (sec VEAL). VEAL).

It is, is, however, inaccurately inaceurately extended extended to ta refer to to the the same same
part part of of any slaughtered animal. animal.

Another characteristic local Anothercharacteristic local dish dish is is the the tourte tourie d Ia la Lorraine, Lorraine, made made with with two two kinds kinds of of meat, rneat, veal veal and and pork. park. These These are are first first steeped steeped with with herbs herbs in in a a marinade marinade and and then then baked baked together together pastry. on on a a bed bed ofsavoury of savoury egg egg custard eustard in in a a pie pie crust erust offine of fine pastry. Other Other specialities specialities include include rarnequins; ramequins; kneppes; kneppes; oatfs oeufs d l'escargot l'escargot (eggs (eggs with with snails); snails); choucroute choucroute (sauerkraut) (sauerkraut) d la la

LONZO LONZO (Corsican (Corsiclln cookery) cookery) - Pork Pork product product eaten raw as as an euvre, like raw hors-d hors-d'uvre. raw salt salt ham, harn, made from from boned fillet fi Il et of of
pork. pork. This This is is steeped in brine with herbs and then dried.

LOQUAT LOQUAT or or JAPANESE JAPANESE MEDLAR. uirrr NFLE DU DU rAPoN JAPON small Fruit of the Japanese biwa.It biwa. It looks something like like a smatl

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plum. p[um. Its seeds are enclosed in a large stone. stone. Loquats Loquats ripen Provence from from April April onward. onward. They They are are quite quite sweet, slightly slightly tart, and refreshing. ptso-oE-vrAu Common name LORDS LORDS AI\D AND LADIES. PIED-OE-VEAU - Comman contain edible roots of of which wild arum, arum, the for wi/d the tuberous raots for which contain cuckoo-pint and wake-robin. known as cuckoo-pinl fecula. It is also known wake-robin.

messine; messine; tourte tourte aux aux oignons oignons (onion (on ion tart tart similar sirnilar to 10 the the Strasbourg Strasbourg onion onion tart); tart); pdtis; pts: quenelles quenelles de de foie foie de de veau veau (calves' (calves' liver liver forcemeat forcemeat balls); balls); civet civet de de pork pork frais (civet (civet of of fresh fresh pork); park); and and a a whole who le series series of of local local pork park products, products, the the finest famous black black pudding pudding of of Nancy. Nancy. The The finest being being the the famous potted and pdtis potted meats meats and pts de de foie foie gras gras of of Lorraine Lorraine rival rival in in delicacy delicacy those those of of neighbouring neighbouring Alsace. Alsace. A Lazarque, devoted devoted a a book book of of A local local writer, writer, Auricoste A urieoste de de Lazarque, some sorne 300 300 pages pages to ta the Ihe gastronomy gastronomy of of his his homeland. homeland. He He d the matelote speaks speaks with with eloquence eloquence of of the matelole de de Metz; Metz; crayfish cray.fish la la de Riom; mode de mode mode de de Boulay; Boulay; frogs frogs' legs legs d Ia la mode Riom,' parttidge parlridge
goose. He daube of and the the daube with cabbage ci la la I'orraine; Lorraine; and ofgoose. He gives gives wilh cabbage d soupe au an boudin boudin the soupe ou lard recipes for the the soupe soupe au lard de de Inrraine; Lorraine; the recipes for au in aspic; (black sucking pig soup); sucking (black pudding pudding soup); pig in aspic; ham ham au foin; foin ..

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565 565

LOTUS LOTUS
goose pt pdti of the goose of Rupt-de-Mad; Rupt-de-Mad; soupe soupe dore; dorie; meillal meillat or or the (applepies); miot; rouyals rouyals (apple pies); chaude (a kind chaudee (a kind of apple tart); of apple tart); miol; (a kind chemitrds (a kind of of waffie); waffie); and and mally many other other delicious delicious chemitrs dishes. dishes. Among the the delicate pastries made delicate pastries made in in Lorraine Lorraine are are the the Among macaroons and and bergamotes bergamotes of of Nancy; Nancy; the the madeleines madeleines of of macaroons Commercy; the (similar to the kugelhupf kugelhupf (similar to that that of of Alsace); Alsace); Commercy; Nancy cake; cake; the the none nonettes of Remiremont; Remirem ont; aniseed aniseed bread; bread;and and Nancy Iles of plum larl. jams; the mirabelle plum tart. There There <Ire, are, too, too, the the mynle myrtle jams; the mirabelle famous sugar wgar almonds almonds of of Verdun; Verdun; and and many many other other sweet sweet famous dishes. dishes. The cheeses cheeses include include Grardmer G6rardmer cheese, cheese, admirable partner admirable panner The local wines, wines, Lorraine to the the local Lorraine cheese cheese made made from from scalded scalded curds, curds, to and Fromgey, Fromgey, a a kind kind of of white white cheese, cheese, which which is is spread spread on on a a and slicd of of bread bread and and sprinkled sprinkled with with chopped chopped onions onions and and slic shallots. shallots. Wines - Among Among the wines of of this the wines this region region are are the the white, white, Wines red and and ros ros6 wines wines of of Ctes C6tes de de Toul Toul in in Meurthe-et-Moselle, Meurthe-et-Moselle, red and the the white white and and red red wines wines of of Moselle. Moselle. Both Both varieties varieties are are and (vins dlimits V.D.Q.S. category the V.D.Q.S. category (vins qualit6 d6limites de de qualit in the suffrieure). suprieure).

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LOTUS -- In In ancient ancient Egypt Egypt the the tuberous tuberous stump stump of of white white LOTUS lotus was grilled or was eaten, eaten, grilJed or boiled. boiled. The pink lotus, The pink lotus, on on the the lotus other hand, hand, being being regarded regarded as as a plant, was a sacred sacred plant, was forbidden forbidden other food. food.
LOUBIIYE French local local na name for the grey mullet. the grey mullet. - French LOU BINE me for LOTIISE-BONNE pear. Variety of of pear. - Variety LOUISE-BONl'<'E -

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LOVAGE. LIVCHE rrvicrn -- Herb Herb of of the angelica family, the angelica family, much much LOVAGE. used in Roman Roman cookery. young leaves, cookery. The The young leaves, ribs ribs and and leaf leaf used in stalks are are caten eaten like celery. The The seeds seeds are are used constalks like celery. use.d in in confectionery. fectionery . porvRErrE - Common name for the LOVE-IN-A-MIST. LOVE-IN-A-MIST. PorVRETTE Common name l'or the cultivated nigella nigella (q.v.). cultivated (g.v.).
LLJMPY. Stuffings or are sa said - Stuffings LUMPY. cRENU GRENU or doughs doughs are id to to be be lumpy lumpy when are not smooth. when they they are not thoroughly thoroughly mixed mixed and and smooth. LLJNEL LUNEL WINE WINE - Muscatel Muscatel wine wine made made in in the the H6rault Hrault coillmune, round This is commune, round about about Lunel. Lunel. This is a a sweet sweet dessert dessert wine. wine. * A pulse iUpnV LUPIN - A pulse (leguminous (Ieguminous plant) plant) used used as as fodder. fodder. Its Its bitter be eaten eaten after after soaking soaking in in water. water. bitter seeds seeds can can only only be

Gastronomic map of Lyonnais Lyonnais Gastrononuc

LUTE. LUTE. rur UIT - A A paste paste which which hardens hardens as as it it dries. dries. It lt is is used used to 10 seal seal containers containers hermetically. hermetically. Almond Almond lute lute is is made made by by mixing mixing powdered powdered almonds, almonds, from from which which the the oil oil has has been been extracted, extracted, with with starch starch paste. pas te. In In cooking cooking, a a flour-and-water fiour-and-water
paste paste is is used, used, which which is is also also called called repire repre or or repaire. repaire.

agricultural, agrieultural, has has a a few few fertile fertile plains, plains, notably nota bly those those of of Forez Forez and and Roannais, Roannais, and and market market gardening gardening is is carried carried out out on on a a large scale in the area. There an is an abundance abundance of of good good large seale in the area. There is quality potatoes as well weil as as excellent excellent onions, on ions, such such as as those those of of quality potatoes as Roanne, Roanne, which which are are used used in in the the preparation preparation of of a a large large number number of of special special dishes, dishes, for for example example tripe tripe d la la lyonnaise. lyonnaise. Many Many other other vegetables vegetables are are grown. grown. Fruit Fruit production production is is also also an an important important industry, industry, and and some some fruit" fruit, such such as as the the apricots apricots of of Ampuis Ampuis have have a a well-deserved well-deserved reputation. reputation. So, So, too, 100, have have the the sweet sweet chestnuts chestnuts which which come come from from the the many man y trees flourish that on the mountain trees that fiourish on the mountain sides. sides. The The neighbouring neighbouring regions regions converge converge on on Lyons, Lyons, a a town town of of high high gastronomic gastronomie repute, repute, with with many many excellent excellent foodstuffs, foodstuffs, such as the the succulent succulent poultry poultry of of Bresse. Bresse. such as Excellent Excellent meat meat is is to to be be found found in in the the Lyonnais Lyonnais district. district. Pigs, bred in large provide many Pigs, bred in large numbers, numbers, provide Lyons Lyons with with the the many well-known well-known pork pork products products made made there. there. The The game game of of this this regron region is is also also of offine fine quality quality
566 566

LYONNAIS LYONNAIS - The The Lyonnais Lyonnais distric! district, more more industrial industrial than than

Excellent fish the Loire, the Sa0ne and and the Excellent fish is is caught in in the the Sane Rh6ne, as well as in the local ponds. Rhne, as weil as local ponds. Culinary The well-known Lyons smtsage; Culinary specialities - The Lyons sausage: pike an bleu; Ia lyonnaise; pike au bleu: quenel/es quenelles (fish (fish balls) balls) of of pike pike d la gratin of crayfish crayfish tails; tails; matelots of of Laire Loire and Sa6ne Sane rtsh; fish; gratin of omelette d la la lyonnaise; ome/elle lyonnaise; black black pudding with apples; apples: tipe tripe d la lyonnaise; poached saveloy saveloy with pistachio pistachio nuts mils and truffies; truffles: lyonnaise; poached roulade of pig's pig's head; head; Charliat Charlieu chitterlings; chillerlings; ham ham with wi/h roulade of walnuts; walnuts: Marlhes Marlhes sausage; sausage; chicken chicken en en demi-deuill: demi-deuill; the celebrated poached chicken de Ia la mbre mre Filloux; Filloux; chicken chicken d la celebrated poached crime; crme; chicken chicken en en vessie vessie (chicken (chicken sausage); chicken chicken cilestine cles/lne; ; veal (veal sausage); sa usage) ; cardoons cardoons au au gratin. gratin. veal m en vessle vessie (veal Among are bugnes Among the the special special sweets sweets of of this this region region are bugnes Iyonnaises lyonnaises (a (a special special type type offritter); of fritter); acacia acacia blossomfritters; b/ossom frillers; frangipane; the the substantial substantial matefoim matefaim (a type type of pancake); pancake); frangipane; and and pumpkin pumpkin cake. cake. Wines Wines - Worthy Worthy accompaniment accompaniment of the the dishes dishes made made in in the the Lyonnais Lyonnais district, district, are are the the wines wines drunk dnmk by by the the gourmets gourmets of of this this foodJoving food-Ioving region. region. Beaujolais Beaujo/ais wines. wines. See See BURGUNDY. BURGUNDY. C6tes Ctes dt du Forez. Forez. Under Under this this V.D.Q.S. V.D.Q.S. appellation appellation Lyonnais Lyonnais produces produces a a light light and and fruity fruit y Gamay Gamay red red wine wine not not unlike unlike Beaujolais. Beaujolais.

LYOPHILISATION LYOPHlUSATION - Lyophilisation Lyophilisation or or freeze-drying freeze-drying is is a a method of drying drying prefrozen prefrozen products. products. The The process process is is carried carried method of out in several several stages stages and and results results in in a a perfectly perfectly dry, dry, stable, stable, out in end end product, product, unaltered unaltered in in quality. quality. Foods Foods of of animal animal and and vegetable vegetable origin origin treated treated thus thus (delicate (delicate fruit, fruit, fruit fruit juices, juices, vegetables, vegetables, coffee, coffee, tea, tea, milk, milk, fish fish fillets, fillets, certain certain meats) meats) have have the aroma, vitamins, vitamins, fatty fatty acids acids and and the same same textureo texture, taste, taste, arom4 proteins. proteins. Other Other advantages advantages are are easy easy rehydration rehydration of of the the treated treated foods; instant consumption; consumption; long-term long-term conservation; conservation; ease ease foods; instant of of transport, transport, storage storage and and distribution distribution (weight (weight and and volume volume are are reduced, reduced, due due to 10 the the elimination elimination of ofwater). water).

Italy MACARONI from ltaly food, originally from A farinaceous food, MACAROhU -A (sorne (some authorities it origin), where it as its place of origin), authorities give Naples as has been been eaten for centuries. like aU all other pasta, centuries. Macaroni, Iike has is very nourishing. nourishing. 2 litres Cooking macaroni. CUISSON Put 2 DB MACARONI MAcARoNI culssoN DE - Put (3! of in the ratio of adding salt in (3| pints, 4! a pan, :idding 4| pints) water in a 11teaspoons per litre (seant (scant quart, generous quart). Bring it it l| teaspoons (5 oz.) into g. (5 in 150 g. oz.) macaroni, broken into boil and and put in to the the boil pieces. pieces. Boil very fast thickthe thick16 to 20 20 minutes according to the for 16 fast for ness products, macaroni pasta products, all pasta Like ail macaroni. Like of the the macaroni. ness of must from the Remove the the saucepan saucepan from must not not be be overcooked. Remove stove. Coyer in the water for for a a to sweU the water swell in Cover it and leave the pasta to few few minutes. Drain put it in the the saucepan. saucepan. and put it back back in macaroni and Drain the the macaroni Evaporate ail a few few for a leaving it it on on the the stove stove for by Jeaving all moisture by seconds. get rid absorbed rid of any any water absorbed to get This is is necessary necessary to seconds. This by cooking. during cooking. by the the macaroni during Proceed the recipe recipe used. used. Proceed according according to to the Macaroni as indicated indicated macaroni as Boil the Macaroni A l'anglaise I'anglaise the macaroni - Boil above. platter. Serve with butter. butter. a serving Serve with serving platter. above. Heap on on a Macaroni tablespoons Add several several tablespoons la bchamel bechamd Macaroni i la - Add Bchamel (see SAUCE) macaroni. cooked macaroni. SAUCE) to to the the cooked Bdchatnel sauce sauce (see Season. (scant add 3 3 tablespoons tablespoons (seant Mix. Just before serving, Just before serving, add Season. Mix. tt cup) cup) butter.

g. BEURRE -- Add Add 75 75 g. AU BEURRE MAcARoNI AU Macaroni widl with butter. MACARONI Macaroni pieces, to to (3 oz., cut into into small small pieces, fresh butter, butter, eut o2.,6 tablespoons) fresh (3 6 tablespoons) butter is is well well the butter Toss so so that that the Season. Toss cooked macaroni. Season. the the cooked in. mixed in. Another FRoMAGE -- Another AU FROMAGE MAcARoNI AU with cbeese. cheese. MACARONI Macaroni with (see below). below). name l'italienne (see for Macaroni Macaronidl'italienne name for Boil the m CRME the A LA cntilrle -- Boil MAcARoM Macaroni with with cream. cream. MACARONI Macaroni put back Drain and and put back cooked. Drain is three-parts it is macaroni macaroni until until it three-parts cooked. all moisture. moisture. to evaporate evaporate ail on the stove to the stove in in the saucepan on the saucepan (* pint, pint" seant fresh cream. cream. boiled fresh 2 dl. scant cup) cup) boiled Moisten with 2 dl. (1 Moisten with pinch of with aa pinch of 12 minutes. minutes. Season Season with l0 to to 12 Simmer for 10 Simmer slowly slowly for pan from from the grated nutmeg. Remove the the nutmeg. Remove the pan and a a little little grated salt salt and cut into into g.Q* butter eut 5 tablespoons) oz., 5 tablespoons) butter mix in in 60 60 g. and mix stove (2t oz., stove and pieces. small small pieces. I'italienne asfor Macaroni dl'italienne for Macaroni la crole cr6ole -- Proceed Proceed as Macaroni Macaroni i la peppers (q.v.) of sweet peppers of sweet (see below). coarse salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (see a coarse Make a below). Make (zucchini, marrows (zucchini, vegetable marrows (green and very small small vegetable (green and red), red), very a touch and a touch in oil, oil, and tossed in courgettes) tomatoes tossed in oil, oil, tomatoes courgettes) tossed tossed in with the the salpicon with Mix this this salpicon of garlic. Bind Bind with with cheese. cheese. Mix of garlic. macaroni. macaroni. These EN CROQUETTFS cRoQt ETrrs - - These MAcARoNI EN Macaroni Macaroni croquettes. croquettes. MACARONI (see CROQUETTES) using CROQUETTES) using are way (see in the usual way are made made in tne usual and blended dicd and blended drained, dieed macaroni, water, drained, in salt salt water, macaroni, boiled boiled in (se SAUCE). SAUCE). with sauce (see Bichatnel sauce with Allemande Allemande or or Bchamel as for for Macaroni Macaroni d Macaroni fermiire -- Proceed Proceed as la fermire Macaroni i la with (see below). l'italienne dish alternating alternating with in aa deep deep dish below). Serve Serve in I'italienne (see celery, onion onion layers carrots, turnips, turnips, celery, of carrots, vegetable fondue layers of of aa vegetable fondue of very in butter butteruntil until very and cookedslowly slowly in and cooked and leek, finely sliced sliced and leek, finely tender. tender.

Macaroni gratin augratin Macaroni au

Macaroni pieces(Nicolas) (N ico las) Macaroni pieces

Macaroni I'italienne gratin-- Proceed asfor Macaronidl'italienne forMacaroni Proceed as Macaroni au augratin (see and (see below). withbutter butterand dish lined linedwith anovenware ovenware dish inan below). Serve Serve in grated mixed with mixed ofthe macaroni with gratedcheese. themacaroni topof cheese. Sprinkle Sprinkle the thetop
s67

MACAROON MACAROON
grated cheese. breadcrumbs and and grated cheese. Pour Pour melted melted butter butter over over and and breadcrumbs brown in in the the oyen. oven. brown Macaroni (2 OZ., I'italienne -- Add g. (2 I l'italienne Add 50 50 g. oz., f cup) grated Macaroni (a mixture cheese (a mixture of of Gruyre Gruydre and and Parmesan) Parmesan) and 50 g. g. Q OZ., oz., cheese cup) butter butter cut cut into pieces, to into small small pieces, to the the cooked cooked macaroni. macaroni. i* cup) Season with with salt grated nutmeg. salt and and aa !ittle little grated nutmeg. Toss Toss to mix Season to mix thoroughly. Heap on on aa serving serving plate. One One kind kind of of cheese cheese thoroughly. need be only need be used, though though aa mixture of of Parmesan Parmesan and and only gives better Gruydre gives better results. results. Gruyre Macaroni la Lucullus i la Lucullus -- Proceed Proceed as as for for Macaroni Macaroni Macaroni d I'italienne. Serve Serve in in a a dish dish with with alternate alternate layen of of a a coarse coarse l'italienne. gras and salpicon of of foie gras and truffies blended in a a very contruffies blended consalpicon (se,e SAUCE). centrated Madeira sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Decorate Decorate the top top of centrated of macaroni with the macaroni with strips strips of of truffie. truffie. the Macaroni la milanaise i la milanaise -- Proceed Proceed as as for for Macaroni Macaroni Macaroni d I'italienne. Add Add 2 2 to (see to 3 3 tablespoons tablespoons Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see l'italienne. flavoured with with tomato, tomato, and and 2 SAUCE) flavoured 2 to to 3 3 tablespoons of SAUCE) of (coarsely shredded garnish (coarsely Milanaise garnish shredded ham, ham, pickled lOngue, Milanaise tongue, mushrooms and and truffies). truffies). mushrooms Mix weil well and and heap on platter. on a a serving serving platter. Mix Macaroni la mirepoix -- Make (q.v.) of il la Make a a mirepoix mirepoix (q.v.) Macaroni of vegetables, rather rather coarsely coarsely diced, diced, cooked cooked slowly vegetables, slowly in in butter butter until very tender and blended tender and blended with with cheese. cheese. It until It should should be be a a quarter of the weight of the weight of the the macaroni. Mix the quarter the mirepoix mirepoix macaroni. Mix with the the cooked cooked macaroni. macaroni. Put Put in in an an ovenproof ovenproof dish with dish lined lined with butter butter and and grated cheese. cheese. Sprinkle with Sprinkle the the top top of of the the with cheese. Pour Pour butter butter over macaroni with over and and brown in the brown in the oven. oyen. Macaroni i la la Nantua Macaroni d l'italienne l'italienne served served in in a a - Macaroni pie crust of lining pastry baked baked blind, with alterna te layers pie alternate layers (see CRA Nantua (see of Crayfish tail ragofrt d la Nantua YFISH). CRAYFISH). la napolitaine 1 A la Macaroni Ifor Macaroni as for d - Proceed as (scant * cup) I'italienne. Add Add 3 3 tablespoons (scant l'italienne. cup) Tomato Tomato sauce (see SAUCE) to macaroni. Mix. to the the macaroni. Mix. Serve in (see in a a deep deep dish. dish. Sprinkle with grated cheese. MjRl{,~ll"nni Macaroni i la napoHtaine n tr some thick macaroni - Break sorne into short sticks, and boil in salt water until the the macaroni is three-parts cooked. Drain and mix with butter. Put the macaroni in in an an ovenproof ovenproof dish lined lined with with butter and grated cheese, with with alternate layers layers of cooked Braised beef (se BEEF) BEEF) rubbed through a sieve. Sprinkle the layers with grated grated cheese. Warm Warm over over a low heat and serve. Macoronl la la pi6montaise pimontaise - Proceed Proceed as for Macaroni Macaroni i as for d l'italienne. l'italienne. After After adding the the butter butter and and cheese, cheese, add add very finely sliced sliced white trufres. truffies. Mix and serve serve in a a deep dish. The white truffies of the macaroni. macaroni. truffles are cooked by the heat of Macaroni with seafood. searood. MAcARoNT MACARONI Arrx AUX FRUrrs FRUITS DE DE MER Proceed Proceed as for Macaroni Macaroni d I'italienne. l'italienne. Serve in a deep dish with alternate alternate layers of of Seafood Seafood ragofrt ragot (see RAGOOQ. RAGOT). Macaroni i la sicilienne - Proceed Proceed as as for for Macaroni d I'italienne. l'italienne. Add, Add, at the the same time as the butter and cheese, cheese, a a few pure of chicken chicken livers livers mixed mixed with few tablespoons tablespoons of puree Velouti Velout sauce sauce (s* (see SAUCE). Serve Serve in a deep deep dish. dish. Macaroni in stock. MAcARoM MACARONI AU AU JUs JUS - Boil the macaroni macaroni Macaroni in until is three-parts cooked. cooked. Drain Drain and and put in a saucepan saucepan until it is with with brown brown veal or or beef beef stock. stock. Cover Coyer and and leave leave to simmer sim mer slowly slowly for for 12 12 to to 15 15 minutes. minutes. Heap on and pour pour over over it it 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons on a a serving serving dish dish and (3 (3 tablespoons) tat,]esPol:ms concentrated concentrated brown brown stock. stock. Macaroni with tomato MACARONI A Ll LA roMlTE TOMA TE tomato sauce. sauce. MAcARoM Proceed Proceed as as fot for Macaroni Macaroni in in stock, stock, substituting substituting tomato tomato sauce sauce for for the the stock. stock. Macaroni wi0r with trufres. truffles. MAcARoNT MACARONI Aux AUX rRr,JFFDs TRUFFES - Mix Mix Macaroni -butter in butter butter, cheese cheese and and coarsely coarsely shredded shredded trufres truffies tossed tossed in butter, with with the the macaroni. macaroni. Decorate Decorate the the top top with with strips strips of of trufles. truffies.

MACAROON. MACAROON. M,c,clnoNMACARON - Small SmalJ round round dry dry pastry pastry made made of of almond paste, pas te, sugar sugar and and egg egg white. white. almond
568 568

The The originof of this this pastryis isunknown. unknown. Sorne Some authorities authorities suggest suggest that this little biscuit was thislitde was invented inventedin inItaly, ltaly, and andfrom from there therecame came to to France, France, where where it it was wasappreciated appreciated by by conconnoisseurs, noisseurs, and and was was subsequently subsequentlymass produced. massproduced. Delicately Delicately flavoured flavoured macaroons macaroons are are made made in parts in various variousparts of of France. France. Those Those of of Nancy are are considered considered the the best. best.They They have have been been made made for for nearly two two centuries centuries by by successive successive generations generationsof of the the same same family,and andare areknown known as asthe macathe macaroons roons of 'MacaroonSisters'. of the the'Macaroon Sisters'. In In the the eighteenth century, century, it it became became the custom in the custom many inmany convents convents for the the nuns nuns to make macaroons. macaroons. The to make The nuns nunsof of the the Convent Convent of of the the Visitation Visitation of of Our Our Lady Lady at at Melun Melunmade made these these and and other other sweetmeats. sweetmeats. When, When, in in 1748, 1748, the the Court Court was was at at Fontainebleau, Fontainebleau, the the Dauphin vent of Dauphin and and his his wife wife went went to visit the the Con to visit Convent of the the Visitation Visitation of of Our Lady at at Melun, Melun, at Our Lady at the the Port Port de de Bire Bidre the the procession procession was was addressed addressed by the Mayor, who the Mayor, who offered offered the the th a ts, visitors visitors a a ceremonial ceremonial bottle bottle of wine wi with a basket of biscui basket of biscuits, macaroons, macaroons, sugar and other sugar sticks sticks and other sweetmeats. sweetmeats. Plain Plain macaroollS. macaroons. MACARONS MAcARoNs ORDINAIRES oRDTNATRES -- Pound Pound in in aa mortar 11- cups) (7 OZ., mortar 200 200 g. (7 oz.,lj (4 of cups) blanched blanched almonds almonds (4 of which which should should be be bitter almonds) almonds) moistened moistened with with 1 I egg egg white. white. As As soon ~ as the soon as almonds are the almonds are weil pounded, add (5 OZ., well pounded, add 150 150 g. g. (5 oz.,l cup) cup) su-gar. Mix Mix and and add add I egg egg white. white. Still mixing, add 150 g. g. Still mixing, add 150 (5 OZ., (5 o2.,3 cup) cup) sugar sugar and and the rest rest of of the the egg egg white. white. The The mixture mixture must must be be rather rather soft soft but but not If necessary not runny. runny. Ifnecessary at at this add anothed this stage stage add another I egg egg white white and and mix mix thoroughly. thoroughly. Pipe Pipe the the mixture onto onto a a sheet paper. The sheet of of rice rice paper. The macaroons macaroons should should be be 3 3 to 4 cm. to 4 cm. (ll inches) inches) in in diameter, diameter, and and far far enough apart prevent them apart to to prevent them from running into into one one another another during baking. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with icing (350'F., Gas and bake icing sugar sugar and bake at at 180C. 180'C. (350F., Gas Mark ch Mark 4) 4) for for 20 20 minutes minutes or or until until the macaroons are the macaroons are a a ri rich golden col our. colour. Crisp Crisp macaroollS. macaroons. MACARONS MAcARoNs CROQUANTS cRoeuANTs -- Pound Pound in in a a mortar 250 (9 OZ., g. (9 250 g. oz.,lf cups) cups) blanched blanched almonds almonds with with a a little little egg g. (9 OZ., egg white. Add 250 250 g. oz., generous cup) cup) sugar sugar flavoured flavoured to taste. Mix weil. (9 OZ., well. Add Add to the g. (9 the mixture mixture 250 250 g. generous oz., I!erlen)us cup) sugar and enough enough egg white to make a a fairly to make fairly soft but not runny paste. Spoon Spoon small heaps heaps of of this mixture onto this mixture rice onto rice paper. Bake at (350"F., Gas at 180C. 180'C. (350F., Gas Mark Mark 4) 4) for for 18 l8 to to 20 20 minutes. Hazelnut macaroons. macartxms. MACARONS MAcARoNs AUX Aux NOISETTES NorsETTns Hazel- Hazelnuts, egg whites and nuts, and sugar are are used used for for these these macaroons. macaroons. The hazelnuts are are not blanched. The The method method is is the the same same as as for plain macaroons. Pine kernel macaroons macaroons can can also also be be made made in in the the same same way. way. In accordance accordance with a a regulation regarding regarding the the naming of of foodstuffs, the above above biscuits may may no no longer longer comnner'ci2ll1 commercially be called macaroons in France. be macaroons in France. macaroons. MAcARoNs MACARONS DE DE MoNTMoRTLLoN MONTMORILLON Montmorillon macaroons. These macaroons are shaped through a fluted nozzle nozzle into These shaped through a fluted into They are a speciality of Vienna. rings. are speciality of Vienna. MACARONS DE DE MoRT NIORT - Pound in a a macaroollS. MAcARoNs Niort macarqrril in - Pound mortar 375 OZ., 2i cups) cups) blanched blanched almonds almonds with with 5 egg mortar 375 g. (13 oz.,2t 5 egg 500 g. (18 oz., OZ., 2f 2i cups) cups) sugar. sugar. Transfer Transfer the the mixmixwhites and 500 saucepan and and dry dry out out on on the the stove. stove. Add Add 4 4 ture to a small smalt saucepan ture te3isp oOIrJ.S finely finely chopped crystallised crystallised angelica. angelica. teaspoons as usual. usual. Proceed as la parisienne. parisienne. MAcARoNs MACARONS A r,l LA pl,nnlENNE PARISIENNE MacaroollS i Macaroore Pound in in a a mortar mortar 250 250 g. g. (9 oz.,li OZ., li cups) cups) blanched blanched almonds almonds Pound with 4 whites. Add 375 g. (13 OZ., 3 cups) fine sugar and a with 4 egg whites. Add 375 g. (13 oz., 3 cups) fine sugar and a Put the the mixture mixture in in a a bowl bowl and and blend blend !ittle vanilla. Mix Mix well. weil. Put little onto rice rice in 2 2 more more egg egg whites. whites. Whisk Whisk the the mixture. mixture. Pipe Pipe onto in paper. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with sugar sugar and and bake bake as as indicated indicated above. above. paper. Soft macarootr. macaroollS. MAcARoNs MACARONS MoBLLEUX MOELLEUX - Pound Pound in in a a Soft -250 mortar 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz.,l| OZ., Ji cups) almonds almonds with with 250 (9 o2.,2 OZ., 2 moftar g. (9 lump sugar. sugar. Pound Pound into this this mixture mixture enough double double cups) lump cups)
1

Asalad salad basket basket oflresh or fresh brown brown eggs(Phot. eggs (Phot. Nicolas) Nicolas) A

MACKEREL
cream and egg white soft but not wbite to make a paste which is soft runny. runny. Spoon the mixture onto sheets of rice paper and and bake as indicated above. above. indicated

MACE. MAcrs MACIS - Dried Dried shell of the the nutmeg. Its Its flavour is midway between It is between that of nutmeg and and cinnamon. lt is used used Bavour marinades, brines and and sauces. to flavour MACEDOINE fruit or vegeMACDOINE - Mixture or raw raw or cooked fruit
tables. It can be served either hot or cold. tables. The name name macddoine macdoine is is derived derived from from Macedonia, the The formed by by small were conquered by which were country formed small states which

Alexander ""'-''''''''''J'-' the Great.

(fruit salad). nn rrancEoonm DE Macdoine of fruit, chilled salad). MACDOINE chilled (fruit Mac6doine of fruit, such as in season, season, such in a a bowl, fruit in - Mix in sliced pears, peeled and quartered or sliced and sliced sliced bananas, sliced apricots, strawberries, strawberries, whoJe apricots, whole raspberries, raspberries, blanched blanched fresh almonds, etc. each a heavy sugar syrup over the fruit, fruit, or sprinkle each Pour a layer of fruit with fine sugar. a few few teaspoons sugar. Flavour with a of kirsch, maraschino, or other liqueur. liqueur. Embed the bowl of fruit in in a a bucket of crushed ice. Leave chili for 2 hours. to chill
RAFRACHIS FRUITS RAFRAicHIs GUMESGUMES _

DE FRUITSFRUITs MACDOINE oF OF FRUIT. ulcfoonr MACDOINE DE MACEDOINE

MACDOINE OF ou LuacfDoINE DE I,6VEGETABLES. MACDOINE MACEDOINE OF VEGETABLES.

LGUMES rfcuuns

Macdoine os butter. MACDOINE LtAc6nonIE DE with butter. Mac6doine of of vegetables vegetables with AU and turnips into balls carrots and turnips into AU BEURRE BEURR.E Shape carrots - Shape with a bali-scoop, or dice them beans or or finely. Dice French beans a ball-scoop, them finely. cut them into lozenges. Dice green asparagus tips. Boil each each tips. Boil of these green peas peas separately in salt separately in salt and sorne some green these vegetables and water. Heat the vegetables together and and blend in butter. butter. Season. Season. blend in Cold oe LGUMES r6cuues MAcfDoINE DE of vegetables. vegetables. MACDOINE Cold macdoine macedoine of FROIDS rRoros - Prepare, cook and mix in a bowl the same vegetables with buller. butter. of vegelables vegetables with Macidoine of as in the recipe for for Macdoine Dress with oil, vinegar, salt and pepper or with mlvo'nn.als;e. mayonnaise. This dish can be ad or an "E>"o_."m',,,,~n hors-d'euvre. as a a sai salad or an be eaten eaten either either as Macdoine DE uacfootxr DE cream. MACDOINE Mac6doine of vegetables with with cream. of vegetables LGUMES mixture of cook the same same mixture of r6crnars A LA rl CRME cniw -- Prepare and cook ve)get.ables Blend in in fresh cream. vegetables as as above. above. Blend fresh cream. M:ac~doine A op LGUMES I-fcuuns MAcfDoINE DE Mac6doine of vegetables in jeUy. ielly. MACDOINE LA which is is usually usually served served rr GELE This type of macdoine, macidoine, which cnlfn -- This type of jelly stock, with mayonnaise is set set mixed with with concentrated concentrated jelly stock, is mayonnaise mixed jelly. It in as aspic aspic of of It IS is also also known known as a mould mould Iined lined with with jelly. in a vegelables. vegetables.

MACKEREL. - A fish. A long, slender. saltwater fish. MACKEREL. MAQUEREAU MAeuEREAUslender, saltwater Ils blue or or and smooth, back steely steely blue Its scales are small smooth, its back scales are small and greenish, and greenish, its white. It It is is fatty fatty and an opalescent opalescent silvery white. its belly an savoury, or soused. soused. and is is eaten eaten fresh, fresh, smoked, smoked, salted or savoury, and lts mackerel is is derived derived soombrid. The The name name mackerel Its real real name name is is soombrid. from means a which also also means a word maquerean which from the French word the French 'procurer' or It was fish because of its its 'pimp'. It was given to to this this fish because of or 'pimp'. (known as 'virgins') to as 'virgins') to the the habit of of escorting escorting the the young shad (known males. males. The The male mackerel mackerel is is polygamous. The young mackerels sansonnets. for young mackerels is is sansonnets. The French French name name for Mackerel A L'ANGLAISE t'lNctltss -- Cut Mackerd I'anglaise. MAQUEREAU MAeT.JEREAU Cut the the I l'anglaise. v.) flavoured fish (q.v.) flavoured in a fish into a court-bouillon court-bouillon (q. into thick Poach in thick slices. slices. Poach with fennel. gooseberry pure. pur6e. a rather rather liquid liquid gooseberry fennel. Serve with a Serve with Mackerel A LA nouroNu BOULONMackerel la boulonnaise. boulonnaise. MAQUEREAU ueeuEREAU i la NAISE a courtPoach in in a courtmackerel into NAISE -- Cut into thick slices. Poach thick slices. Cut the the mackerel with a bouillon and skin. Drain and skin. Arrange deal of vinegar. Drain bouillonwith a good deal on a dish on a dish and surround surround with shelled, shelled, poached mussels. Coyer (see SAUCE) moistened with a little wfih Buller Butter sauce sauce (see SAUCE) mc,isten(x! Cover with of mussel cooking of the mackerel and and mussel cooking stocks. stocks. the mackerel Mackerel BEURRE rraleunnsAu AU AU BEURRE Mackerel with with browned browned butter butter J. I. MAQUEREAU 569 s69
Newly (Poilane. Phol. phot. Nicolas) Newly baked baked bread bread(Poilane. Nicolasl

or filleted, in a mackerel, sliced sliced or NoISETTE Poach the the mackerel, NOISETTE - Poach and pour lemon juice dish and on a a serving it on serving dish court-bouillon. Put it on 2 2 to 3 taIJlesP()011S tablespoons butter to 3 serving, pour on over it. it. Before serving, heated in a pan until nut brown. AU BEURRE BEURRE uaQurnrAu AU II. MAQUEREAU M,~{'L[,por,po1 with browned butter n. Mackerel fillet il. Poach in in mackerel into thick thick slices slices or fiUet NorR it. Poach NOm. - Cut the mackerel dish and and a serving serving dish Put on on a a vinegar court-bouillon. Drain. Put a and chopped parsley and little in the oyen. oven. Sprinkle Sprinkle with chopped a !ittle dry it a juice or it. Before Before or vinegar over over il. little lemon juice a little Pour a capers. Pour capers. (3 tablespoons) heated tablespoons) butter heated tablespoons (3 serving, pour on 2 tablespoons very dark dark brown. a frying pan until very in a as follows: follows: be prepared as The mackerel can also be and sprinkle with Dry in in the oven and sprinkle with a serving dish. dish. Dry the oyen it on a Put il juice or it. Pour Pour or vinegar vinegar over over it. little lemon juice capers. Pour a little capers. Pour a 2 tablespoons with 2 tablespoons above, with as indicated indicated above, on on browned browned butter as (3 tablespoons) parsley leaves in il. it. leaves fried fried in (3 fish Slit tbe the fish MAQUEREAU COLBERT coLBERr -- SIit Mackerel Colbert. MAQUEREAU with and remove remove the bone. Se Season the bone. it and along the as on with back. Open Open it the back. pepper. Dip and deep-fry. deep-fry. in egg and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and Dip in egg and and pepper. salt salt and (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound d'h6tel butter butter (see Serve with Matre Maitre d'htel Serve with butters). AU COURT-BOUILMleueREAU AU couRT-BouILM:aC}ter,el in court-bouillon. Mackerel in court-bouillon. MAQUEREAU in a a court-bouillon of or sliced, court-bouillon of LON LoN -- Poach Poach the fish, whole whole or sliced, in the fish, juice, seasoned lemon juice, with salt salt and and or lemon seasoned with water water with with vinegar or leaves. and bay flavoured with bay leaves. with thyme thyme and with one one of of the the fresh parsley. Serve Serve with Drain. Garnish Garnish with with fresh Lobster, Hollandaise, Lobster, following Butter, Parsley, Hollandaise, following sauces: saucesi BUller, (see SAUCE). Venetian (see SAUCE). Ravigote, Venetian FILETS DE oe MAQUEREAU uequenreu la dieppoise. dieppoise. FILETS l Fillets of of mackerel mackerel ir la drain. and drain. LA white wine, wine, and fillets in LA DIEPPOISE DrEppoIsE -- Poach Poach the in white the fillets (see garnish (see a Dieppoise Dieppoise garnish Arrange on a dish dish surrounded by a on a surrounded by (see SAUCE), While wine wine sauce sauce (see with White SAUCE), GARNISHES). Coyer Cover with and fillets fillets added added to it. with the cooking mussels and liquor of of the to il. cooking liquor the mussels parsley. garnish with with chopped chopped parsley. Sprinkle the the garnish DE MAQUEREA MAQUERBAU U FILETS DE Filleb of of mackerel mackerel with with aubergines. auberginesi. FILETS AUX and fry in butter butter d fillets and fry them them in AUX AUBERGINES AUBERGINES -- Season Season the the fillets la a serving dish. Surround Surround with with on a la meunire. meuniire. Put Put them them on serving dish. juice over lemon juice over slices bergine fried Squeeze lemon in butter. butter. Squeeze slices of of au aubergine fried in piping hot. hot. the fillets. Pour Pour on on the cooking butter, butter, piping the cooking the fillets. A FILETs DE os MAQUEREAU L{lQUEREnu FiJlets la florentine. florentine. FILETS Fillets of of mackerel mackerel il i la wine. little white white wine. LA in a a very very little fillets in the fiJlets Cook the LA FLORENTINE FLoRENTnis -- Cook on this of Cook Her. Arrange this bed bed of Arrange the the fillets in bu butter. leaf spinach Cook leaf spinach in tllets on (see SAUCE) with the spinach. the Mornay sauce sauce (see SAUCE) witb with Mornay Cover with spinach. Coyer cheese fish with grated cheese it. Sprinkle Sprinkle with added to to it. fish cooking stock stock added grill. and in the oven or or under aa grill. and brown brown in the oyen and melted butter and AU Fillets DE MAQUEREAU MAQUEREAU AU FILETS DE Filleb of of mackerel mackerel au au gratin. FILETS (see SOLE). gratin (see GRATIN an gratin SOLE). as for for So/e au cRATIN -- Proceed Proceed as garnishes FILETS Fillets FILETS DE DE with various various gamishes. Filleb of mackerel with of mackerel and MAQUEREAU in butter DrvERsEs -- Cook Cook in butter and MAeuEREAU AVEC AVEc GARNITURES cARNITUREs DIVERSES surround cdpes sauted saut6ed following garnishes: cpes with one one of of the the following surround with in in butter; butter; cucumber cucumber of mushrooms cooked in in oil; oil; thick slices ofmushrooms thick slices cut very small and cooked cooked in in butter; butter; very small chunks and into small oval chunks cut into small oval vegetable (courgettes or cut into into rounds rounds or zucchinis) zucchinis) cut vegetable marrows marrows (courgettes and in oil oil or or butter butter saut6ed in or oil; oil: tomatoes tomatoes sauted and sauted in butter butter or sautEed in and potatoes sauted garlic; coarsely coarsely diced diced potatoes saut6ed and ftavoured with garlic; flavoured with in in butter. butter. juice and piping hot, Pour hot, cooking butter, butter, piping and the the cooking Pour lemon lemon juice over over the fillets. the fiJlets. ps MAQUEREAU Fillets A FILETs DE luA.QunnrA,u la lyonnaise. FILETS Fillets of mackerel i la of mackerel (3 tatlles,poons) LA tablespoons) Line a adish dish with 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 LA LYONNAISELyoNNArse- Line chopped gently cooked cooked in in butter butter and has been been gently which has chopped onion onion which moistened lay vinegar. Season fillets, lay 1 tablespoon Season the the fiUets, moistened with with 1 tablespoon vinegar. them with more more onion onion and coyer cover them onion and them with on top of the the onion them on top of (3 tablespoons, prepared Moisten with! with +dl. dl. (3 tablespoons, prepared in way. Moisten in the the same same way. scant t cup) white and dot dot with breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, and wine. Sprinkle Sprinkle with white wine. scant* with with oven. Sprinkle Sprinkle with Bake in in the the oyen. of butter. butter. Bake with tiny tiny pieces of chopped parsley. chopped parsley. Fillets DEMAQUEREAU MAQUEREAU pi6montaise. FILETS FILETSDE la pimontaise. i la mackerel Fillets of of mackerel

MACON WINE MCONWINE

How contourt of of the How to fillet fillet mackerel mackerel:: Trace the contour'S (Laroussel fillet with a aknlfe fillet knife (Larousse)

Slide the knife knife along the backbooe backbone and detach Slide (.I-arozsse) the fillet (Larousse)

dip in egg and fillets and and dip the fillets in egg rn Season the - Season breadcrumbs. Fry in butter. (q.v.) and surround with a of risotto risotto (g.v.) Serve on a foundation of FONDUE). border of Tomato fondue (see FONDUE). la vnitienne. FiBets Filleb of mackerel dr la v6nitienne. FILETS FILETS DE MAQUEREAU MAeUEREAU wine with LA - Cook the fillets fillets in in white A re VNITIENNE vENnTENNE Cook the white wine and chervil. a serving dish. chopped shallots and chervil. Drain. Put on a (sw SAUCE) Venetian sauce sauce (see which the Coyer to which with Venetian SAUCE) to Cover with boiled-down pan juices have been added. boiled-down AU Filleb of mackerel rrrEls DE MAQUEREAU MAeUEREAU AU Fillets mackerel in white wiue. wine. FILETS BLANC- Trim the fillets vrN BLANCfillets and and season VIN season them with salt and pepper. Put in in a a buttered baking tin. Moisten with with conpepper. Put buttered baking tin. Moisten (q.v.) and and bake in centrated white wine fumet (g.v.) wine fish fumet in the oyen oven for 8 to to 10 minutes. Drain, boil down the pan juices and use for White wine sauce (see SAUCE). as a basis for SAUCE). Pour the sauce over the mackerel and and serve. u.a.quEREAU FRIT FRIT This is is especially especially Fried Fried mackerel. mackerel. MAQUEREAU - This suitable for in cold, boiled milk. Flour for small mackerel. Dip in lightly and deep-fry deep-fry in very hot fat. Drain, dry on a cloth and and parsley and with dry dry table season season with table salt. salt. Gamish Garnish with with fried fried parsley lemon. MAeUEREAU GRILL GriUed Gri[ed mackerel. mackerel. MAQUEREAU cRrrrf -- Snip off the the tip of jaw and and slit the fish along the the mackerel's jaw the fish the back. back. Open Open it places without separating and cut the bone in two places separating the halves. grill slowly. Season, baste with melted butter and grill form. Pour Shape Shape the in its its original Pour on on half the mackerel in original form. (see BUTTER, melted Maitre d'htel d'h6tel butter melted Matre butter (see BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). grilled fish, Any sauce for grilled fish, e.g. Any sauce suitable suitable for e.g. Bordelaise, Bordelaise, (see SAUCE) can Provenale, Provengale, Saint-Malo Saint-Malo (see can be be served served with mackerel. Mackerel la meunire. meuniire. MAQUEREAU MAeUEREAU A LA LA MEUNIRE urtrNrine -Mackerel i la Prepare like Bass la meunire like,Bass d la meuniire (see BASS). BASS). Mackerel roes. LAITANCES LArrANcEs DE DE MAQUEREAU Mackerel soft soft roes. MAeUEREAU See - See SOFT ROES. Soused Sorned mackerel. mackerel. MAQUEREAUX MAeuEREAtrx MARINS MlnrNss -- Usually Usually served served as as a a cold cold hors-d'uvre. hors-d'euvre. Proceed Proceed as as for for Marinade Marinade of of fresh fresh herrings (see HERRING).
,d, LA prcraoNrArsE PIMONTAISE -

all from and Pouilly-Vinzelles, Fuiss, Pouilly-Loch and Pouilly-Vinzelles, ail from the Fuiss6, Pouilly-Loch6 Micon. (See BURGUNDY.) BURGUNDY.) Solutr Solutr6 region, south of Mcon.
MACONNAISE Wine cask Miconnais cask in in use use in in the the Mconnais MCONNAISE - Wine (46| gallons, 58 gallons). about 212 2l2litres district. It holds about litres (461 (1+ is also applied to a a bottle, containing 8 dl. bottle, containing dl. (1 This name is t Mnconnais wines. lJ pints), which is used for Mconnais pints, IJ

(A LA) given to various meat Name given to various MACONNAISE ( MCONNAISE LA) - Name dishes flavoured with red wine.
in dyeing, dyeing, from used in cARANcE Plant used MADDER-WORT. MADDER-WORT. GARANCE - Plant which a kind of beer can be brewed.
g. (18 oz., 4t cups) sifted flour MADEIRA CAKE CAKE - Mix 500 g. (l lb., g. (1 and 1b.,2 with t 2 cups) butter and teaspoon salt. salt. Cream 450 g. I teaspoon (l lb., and Beat 10 l0 egg yolks untillight until light and g. (1 1b.,2 450 g. 2 cups) sugar. Beat mixture. Sift in the add to the flour gradually. Add t add to the the butter mixture. + grated rind of I lemon. Beat teaspoon teaspoon lemon essence and the grated Line 2 2 900-g. 900-9. (2-lb.) and fold fold in. in. Line stiff, and the the egg egg whites until stiff, paper. Pour paper or Pour the or waxed waxed paper. with buttered bread buttered paper bread tins tins with pans and with sugar. and sprinkle sprinkle the the surface surface with batter into the the pans batter into (300"F., Gas Mark 2). Place small lf hours at at 150C. 150'C. (300F., Bake liafter the the cake after citron on on the the surface surface of the slices of andied candied citron first 15 l5 minutes of baking. first

MCON VIACON WINE. VIN vrN DE MCON MAcon is weil well ruAcoN - The name of Mcon grapes from the known, the grapes known, thanks to the excellent wines made from to the grown around this town dipartement. in the the Sane-et-Loire town in Sa6ne-et-Loire dpartement. The tends along the opes which which run The Cte C6te mconnaise mdconnaise ex extends the si slopes almost parallel to right bank bank of of the Sa6ne between almost parallel to the the right the Sane Tournus and Rhdne dpartement. dipartement. and the the boundary boundary of the the Rhne (known as Mconnais as Mcon Mdcon wines) are full bodied Mdconnais wines (known aroma. and very smooth, with a a delicate delicate and distinctive distinctive aroma. Tbe are PouillyPouillvMdcon wines The most famous of the white white Mcon wines are
570 570

This wine, wine, which which is vIN DE DE MADRE MADTRE WINE. VIN MADEIRA WINE. - This grown on Madeira in in the grapes grown the on the the island island of Madeira made made from from grapes Atlantic Atlantic Ocean, is one of the finest of fortified wines. Madeira, such such as are made made in in Madeira, Various types of wine wine are Various types of of Malmsey, Muscatel, Dry Madeira, made from the grapes of into Madeira Madeira have been imported into vines which are said to have been imported vines which are said to fifteenth century. Funchal, the century. Funchal, in about about the the fifteenth from from Cyprus Cyprus in the storehouse storehouse of these wines. capital of the island, is the It is drunk as wine. It as exhilarating wine. a tonic and an exhilarating Madeira is a great deal in a great is used in cooking. an an apritif ap6ritif before meals and is used a pie served pie. CROTE .lu MADRE rvrl,oinn with Madeira pie. cno0rn AU served with Madeira - Fruit pie apricot sauce flavoured with Madeira. Lu MADRE demi-glace sauce Madeira sauce. sauce. SAUCE sAUcE AU Meoins -- A A demi-glace Madeira (See SA SAUCE.) boiled down with Madeira. (See UCE.) nu MADRE in soRBETs AU M,qoiRE served in Madeira sherbets. SORBETS - Sherbets served just before Madeira poured over over them just with Madeira sherbet sherbet glasses with serving.
and of flour, butter, eggs and MADELEII\E - A small MADELEINE-A small cake made offlour, sugar. pastry-making says the of pastry-making says that the A chronicler chronicler of the the history of madeleine when when he Avice, invented the great pastry-cook, Avice, the madeleine of using Talleyrand. 'He had the idea of was working for Prince Talleyrand. (q.v.) or (q.v.) mixture mixture for quate-quarrs (q.v.) for little little cakes cakes tt-fait tlt-fail (q.v.) or quatre-quarts mould. M. M. Boucher and and Carme Car6me approved approved baked in an an aspic aspic mould.

MAIGRE MAIGRE
The term maddrist madris in in modern French also also applies applies to to the unpleasant bottle bottle smell smell of of a a wine kept for for too long long a a period. period.
soup MADRILENE MADRILNE (A ( LA) LA) - Name Name given given to to a a clear clear soup (generally with (generally served served cold cold or or chilled) chilled) which which is is flavoured ftavoured with tomato other dishes, tomato juice. juice. The The name name is is also also applied applied to to other

flavoured ftavoured with tomato tomato juice. juice.

of la soups invented by Brillat-Savarin, author author of la Physiologie

Madeleines old-fashioned moulds Madeleines made made in old-fashioned moulds

MAGISTDRBS MAGISTRES - Name Name given to a a number number of of nourishing nourishing

du go,frt. got.

'The first of the magistires', magistres', says Brillat-Savarin, Brillat-Savarin, 'is 'is made made
as follows:

idea. He gave the name of madeleines madeleines to these cakes.' cakes.' the idea. (Lacam, Mdmorial la pdtisserie.) Mmorial de la ptisserie.) Other authorities, authorities, however, hold hold that that far far from from having Other been invented invented by by Avice, these these little little cakes cakes were known in been They believe France long before his his time. time. They believe that that they they were France made at at Commercy, Commercy, and and were were brought into into fashion first made first Stanislas Versailles and then, in Paris, by Stanislas about 1730, first at Versailles Leczinski, father-in-law father-in-Iaw of Louis XV, who was very partial them. to them. a very The for madeleines madeleines remained a a secret for for a recipe for The recipe very large large sum to the long time. It is said that it was sold for a very pastry-makers who made pastry-makers of of Commercy, made of of this this great Commercy, who gastronomic specialities of their finest gastronomic delicacy one the finest one of the town.

pot to and put all ail these these ingredients and put them them in in a a pot to warm warm and

Chop 'Take 6large handful of of parsley. 6 large onions, 3 carrots, a handful parsley. Chop

Commercy Commercy madeleines madeleines

Commercy Commercy madeleine. MADELEINE MADELETNE DE DE COMMERCY coMMERcv -- Work (1 lb. g. (1 together in lb. 6 fine sugar, 6 oz., in a a bowl bowl 625 625 g. oz., 5 5 cups) cups) fine sugar, (l lb. g. (1 lb.6 flour, 12 l2 eggs, l| teaspoons 6 oz., 5t cups) sieved 625 625 g. o2.,Slcups) sieved ftour, eggs, 1t grated rind pinch of a pinch bicarbonate of soda, rind of a a lemon, a of soda, the the grated salt. (ll oz., g. (Il very smooth, When this mixture is it 300 g. When is very smooth, add to to it 1$ Mix weIl. cups) melted melted butter. well. Put Put in in buttered madeleine 1 t cups) butter. Mix moulds. Bake in a very very slow slow oyen. oven. in a Plain madeleines. MADELETNES ORDINAIRES Ingredients. Plain madeleines. MADELEINES oRDTNAIRES -- Ingredients. (9 oz., (9 oz., g. (9 g. (9 250 2 cups) 2* cups) 250 g. fine sugar, 250 g_ oz,2f cups) sieved o2.,2 cups) fine sugar, 250 sieved (9 oz., g. (9 generous cup) 4 eggs, flour, 250 melted butter, eggs, a a ftour, 250 g. oz., generous cup) melted butter, 4 pinch of flavouring. of salt, salt, vanilla vanilla or or other other ftavouring. and ftavouring flour, eggs, flavouring into Method. Method. Put eggs, salt salt and into Put the the sugar, sugar, ftour, a spatula mixture is is smooth. a a bowl. bowl. Work Work with with a spatula until until the the mixture smooth. Add Add the melted butter. the melted required number number of of madeleine Butter Butter and and Bour flour the the required mixture. The moulds should moulds. moulds. Spoon The moulds should be be twotwoSpoon in in the the mixture. (375'F., Gas thirds 190'C. (375F., Mark 5) 5) for for 15 l5 to 20 full. Bake Bake at at 190C. Gas Mark to 20 thirds full. minutes. minutes.
acquire MADERISED. MADERISED. MADRIS wines acquire white wines trrnr6nls6 -- Certain Certain white maderwith id to a ftavour Madeira. These These are are sa to be be maderwith age age a flavour of of Madeira. said ised. ised. 57r 571

brown brown with a piece of good fresh butter. just right, (6 oz.) g. (6 in 175 175 g. 'When the throw in the mixture is is just right, throw a slice of grains pounded amber, with with a slice of 20 grains sugar, 20 candied sugar, pounded amber, 45 minutes and and add Boil for for 45 water. Boil toast and 3 bottles toast and bottles of water. lost through through amount lost small fresh water to fresh water to make make up up the the sm ail amount liquid remain. full of liquid evaporation, so so that 3 bottles full evaporation, all, in in a mortar with with and ail, flesh, bones and an old fowl, ftesh, 'Pound an (2 lb.) carefully g. (2 carefully chosen beef. an iron pestle. Chop 900 g. and adding salt salt and 'When this is mix the the two two meats, is done mix 'When meats, adding flame, so a high Bame, so a saucepan over a pepper. Put the mixture in a pepper. and from from time right through, time to through, and heat penetrates that the that the heat penetra tes right mixture is is weil well so that that the the mixture little fresh fresh butter add a a little time add time butter so pan. sticking to the pan. browned without sticking strain the soup which is 'When the stock begins to brown, strain little the little by by little With this, first saucepan. With this, moisten little in the the first in in, it is is ail all mixed in, mixture in the second saucepan, and, when it mixture liquid ripples 45 minutes so that the surface of the liquid boil it for 45 from time be taken taken to to add hot water from throughout. Care must be throughout. result The result level remains remains constant. The that the the liquid level so that to time so long as as long as the is certain as effect is a potion whose whose beneficial beneficial effect is a is able to digest may be, is still to digest be, is still able he may invalid, however however exhausted he food.' how the magistdre the magistre goes on on to explain how to explain Brillat-Savarin goes BrilIat-Savarin given to invalid. the invalid. be given to the should be given a hours a cup cup every every 3 3 hours 'On the be given he should first day day he should be the first 'On days, a a following days, on the the following he settles down for the the night; on until he settles down until in the amount in and the the same same amount only and large cup morning only cup in in the the morning large The invalid invalid should should be are used up. The evening, until the 3 bottles are of legs of as legs nourishing diet, diet, such such as light though kept on on a a light though nourishing kept jam. and jam. fish, sweet sweet fruit and poultry, fish, be able able to invalid should should be fourth day day the the invalid 'Towards the the fourth 'Towards normal life. return to to normal retum 'is intended points out, intended 'This magistre,' out, 'is Brillat-Savarin points magistire,' Brillat-Savarin 'This people who and for for people who dynamic characters characters and and dynamic for robust robust and for energies.' up their their energies.' generally wear out by by burning up wear themselves out generally made from from shin of shin of another magistre magistire made The mas master suggests another The ter suggests 'the weak for 'the weak and and the the pigeons and intended for and crayfish, veal, pigeons crayfish, intended veal, infirm'. infirm'.

DAYS. BYGONE DA OF BYGONE RESTAURANTS OF See RESTAURANTS MAGNY -- See MAGNY YS.
prc -- Corn France, sometimes sometimes eaten eaten bird in in France, MAGPIE. PIE Common MAGPIE. mon bird mainly for for very dry and is is used used mainly The ftesh flesh is is very dry and in the country. The the country_ in and more more edi edible. are more more tender tender and Young magpies magpies are stock. Young stock. ble_

given in milk soured Balkans to soured by by in the to milk MAIA -- Name Name given the Balkans MAlA preparaleaven in previous fermentation as a a leaven in the the preparaand used used as fermentation and previous ofyoghourt. tion of tion yoghourt.
prescribed by foods prescribed by the the describing foods word describing French word MAIGRE -- French MAIGRE and days days of of abstinence. abstinence. during Lent Lent and for consumption consumption during Church for Church pervegetable origin origin were were peronly foods foods of of vegetable In the early days, days, only the early ln and eggs; eggs; gradually authorised butter butter and Church authorised mitted, but but grad the Church ually the mitted, as fish; fish; then creatures su such then flesh of of cold-blooded cold-blooded creatures then the the ftesh then ch as

MAILLOT
(considered ta certain waterfowl waterfowl (considered to be be cold-blooded, cold-blooded, too) too) such such certain as the pintail, the duck, the the shoveller shoveller duck, the pintail, the scotcr, scoter, the waterhen, the waterhen, as coot, the the coot, the teal, teal, the water-rail, the the water-rail. curlew, the the curlew. heron, the the heron, the the godwit, the the sandpiper sandpiper and and the the wheatear. wheatear. godwit, the office office of of matre maitre d'hlel d'h6tel was was always always held persons of held by by persons of the the the highest rank, rank, sometimes sometimes princes of royal. Although of the Although the blood royal. at that lime time the the office office was was a a sinecure. sinecure, the maitre d'htel d'h6tel was, the matre was, at least nominally, at least nominally, in in charge charge of of all all departments departments of of the royal the royal al household, including including the the kitchens and and cellars, cellars, and and ail all the household. the functionaries and and servants. servants. functionaries The martre maitre d'htel d'h6tel of of a a modem modern restaurant great restaurant or or a a great The private establishment establishment today, today, must must have have a very extensive a very extensive private range of of technical knowledge. He qualities of technical knowledge. He must must have have qualities range of which will will enable him to his staff to command his leadership which with staffwith authority and and courtesy. courtesy. He He must must he a first-class first-class adminibe a administrator and a a tactful diplomat. diplomat. strator He must must be thoroughly familiar with details details of of the the special special He work of of the the dining-room, kitchens and and cel/ars. cellars. He He must must be work able to talk talk 10 politely but to the clients several languages able but - in several - polilely not obsequiously. He He must must he be able able to his clienls, to advise his clients, 10 not to guide them in in their choice of of dishes, the go with their choice the wines wines to to go them and the fruit fruit to follow. qualities which are the the qualities which the the modern matre mattre d'hlel d'h6tel These are must possess. If he is grand seigneur, as is no longer a a grand as were the must the in the this office in the great royal important personages who filled lhis households, he is is usually a good educaa man of distinction, good households, particularly, a and, particularly, a master master of of his his an, art, for for service at at the tion and, the an arl as cooking. art as cooking. table is s as much an

MAILLOT -- See See GARNrSHES. GARNISHES. MAILLOT

MAINE - See See ORLANAIS. ORLEANAIS. MAll't'E-

(A LA) MNNTENON ( LA) MIXTURES, Maintenon See MIXTURES, Maintenon MAINTENON - See mixture, mixture. _ See MAIRE RESTAURANTS OF See RESTAURANTS OF BYGONE BYGONE DA DAYS. MAIRE YS.
* The MAISON The term maison is is often often abused abused in in restaurants. restaurants. term maison MA1SON (or sorne All too too often often one one reads: reads: sole sole (or other fish) some olher fish) maison, maison. Ail chicken maison, maison. etc. etc. chicken The epithet epithet maison, maison, in in its its origin and in the minds of The restaurateurs who honestly, indicates (hat who use use it it honestly, dish in that the the dish in restaurateurs question has has been made by been made by the restaurateur himself or the restaurateur or his question following a a recipe which he can staff, following can daim claim a<; as his own. own. stafT, Nevertheless, the lack precision. Il the term term docs does lack It would would be Nevertheless, more satisfactory (0 de notre maison or to say say de d la manire manidre de de more notre maison, as it maison, since since maison as it stands is is vague enough enough for for nOire restaurateurs to unscrupulous restaurateurs to offer offer as as a a Tarte Tarte maison, maison, for for unscrupulous instance, a pastry which which cornes comes from froma their a maison other than lheir own, from a wh.ol(:sale wholesale confectioner, in fact! fact ! There would be no great harm in this, were it it not that more abuses may may arise [rom from it, it, when, when, for for instance instance maison serious abuses is applied ta product whose a product whose name name mplies place of to a implies its its place of s applied (a liqueur origin. Fine maisoll, i.e. Fine Champagne Champagne (a liqueur brandy) maison, i.e. origin. would he be suspect, because, because, by law, the desgnations designations'Cognac' 'Cognac' 'Fine Champagne' are and 'Fine pain are reserved exclusively, under pain and of prosecution penalties, for for brandies made severe penalties, made in in of prosecution and severe Cognac or or within within the official official boundaries of of the the Fine ChamCognac pagle region. Thus, Thus, the the expression fine maison maison is is a a purely fanciful one. lt It suggests to the consumer a a Fine Champagne Champagne which the maison maison has imported for ilS its oWn own exclusive exclusive use which the imported for Use from fact il it merely enables from the Fine Fine Champagne region. In ln fact the sell, without of prosecution, the restaurateur restaurateur to to sell, without risk risk of prosecution, adulterated from spirits which come from terated brandy, brandy, made made from which might might come from
anywhere. anywhere.

MAITRE D'HTEL D'HOTEL BUTTER. BUTTER. BEURRE spunRE LA r,c, MATRE r,rAiTRE MATRE D'HOIEL - A seasoned grilled meat seasoned butter butter served with grilled meat or served wth D'HTEL
fried fish and other other dishes. Il It is is prepared by creaming fish, fred nsh and juice, salt fresh butter with chopped parsley, lemon lemon juice, and salt and fresh butter with pepper. (See BUTTER, Compound butters.) pepper.

- A

N{AIZESee CORN. MAIZE - See

MALAGA - A A sweet wine made n in Andalucia, enjoys Andalucia, which enjoys a great reputation and is used in cooking and confectionery. a There is white Malaga, a golden colour, and red Malaga, which which is is a Malaga.
MALAXER MALAXER - French word ward meaning meaning to knead knead a substance in order to la soften it. il.

MALIC ACID. ACro.

MALLOW. MALLOW.

MAISON MAISON DOREE DORE _ - See See RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS OF OF BYGONE BYGONE DAYS. DAYS.

fruit some vegetables. fruit and sorne vegetables.

MALIeUE MALIQUE - An organic acid present in most

MAISON old MAISON DU DU ROI ROI (Royd (RoyaI Household) Under the the old - Under French French monarchy, monarchy, this this was the the name given given to to all aIl the the departments partments and and personnel of of the the court. court. Chief Chief among these these was of was the bouche bouche dt roi roi (royal (royal kitchens), which was was made up of
a a very very large large number number of of officials. officiais.

MAUVE MAUVE - Plant whose whose leaves, which which contain a viscous substance, are used as an emollient viscous substance, emollient in poultices and infusions. infusions. The The flowers fiowers are soothing soothing to chest troubles. The The leaves lcaves can be eaten in salad or as a vegetable, vegetable, like spinach.

indicating indicating that it it is is made made in in the spring. It Il is is prepared from from young, young, fragrant, fragrant, asperula asperula shoots. shoots. This plant plant is is also known known as as woodruff. woodruff. Put Put some sorne young young asperula asperula shoots in in a a large soup tureen. tureen. Moisten Moisten with with a a bottle boule of of white white Rhine wine and 2 to ta 4 tablerablespoons of of brandy. brandy. Cover Cover the tureen and leave Icave to infuse for for 30 minutes. minutes. Add Add 100 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz., *..rp) t cup) sugar dissolved in in a little water. Mix. Mix. Iittle water. This Tbis drink drink can can also also be made made with with white white Alsace wine wine or white white Graves. Graves.

MAITRAI\K MAITRANX - Drink Drink very very popular popular in Germany. Germany. The name name is and trank is made made up up of of the the words words mai mai (May) (May) and Irank (drink), (drink),

This famous wine made made in Madeira, Madeira, Cyprus and the Canary Canary Islands Islands is named named after a vine originating in the Ihe Greek Greek island, Malavosia. The transplanted transplanted vine yields a a slightly musky wine, sometimes somettmes a little liule bitter, and heavy and, occasionally, perfectly perfectly dry. It It is is very very similar similar to 10 Frontignac, and and is is drunk drunk as as an ap6ritif. It is also used used a great deal in cooking cooking in the the preparation of of sweets, sweets, and and to to flavour certain sauces, sauces, instead of Madeira Madeira and other other heavy heavy wines. wines.

MALMSEY MALMSEY (MALVOISE) (MALVOISiE) Wil\E. WINE. vrN VIN DE DE MALvorsrE MALVOIS -

MAITRE MATRE D'HOTEL D'HTEL - Nowadays, Nowadays, the the title tille of of mattre matre d'h6tel d'htel is is reserved reserved for for the man man in in charge of of the dining-room djning-room in in a hotel or restaurant. restaurant. He He is is assisted by by a a team team of of senior, senior. hotel or junior junjor and and assistant assistant waiters. waters.
Formerly FonnerJy this this title title was was used also also of of a a hotel hotel proprietor, proprietor, but but only only in in the the provinces. provinces. Previously Previously in in royal, royal, princely, princely, and and other other noble noble households, households,
572 572

MALT MALT - Barley prepared prepared for brewing brewing by steeping, Sleeping, germinagermination or or kiln kiln drying. (See (See BEER.) BEER.) Malt extract. extra ct. ExrRArr EXTRAIT DE DE MALT MALT - A concentrated infusion infusion of of germinated germinated barley barley which which is is made made into into syrups or or crystals. It Il is is used used as as a a food, especially especially to to moisten moisten porridges porridges for very very
young young babies, babies, because because of of its enzyme enzyme content. content.

MANCIIE MANCHE - In ln French French cookery, cookery, the the projecting projecting bone bone of of a cutlet cutlet is is called a a manche. MANCHETTE MANCHETTE - A A paper paper frill frill for the the projecting projecting bones bones of
cutlets cutlets or or joints. joints. (See (See PAPILLOTE.) PAPILLOTE.)

MARCHE AND LIMOUSIN LIMOUSIN

MANCHONMANCHON This is a name for: and baked l. A of flaky made of 1. A small flaky pastry pastry and baked in in a small cake cake made
mould in in the shape of a muff. rolled out 2. A A petit four made of almond paste out rather 2. four made paste rolled ralher of almond on a [hin, baked baked for a a few seconds in rolled o