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Project I

Torn in Two
The intention of my designs is to embody a fuid silhouette with draping
accents; some garments have been deliberately exaggerated in propor-
tions to give a feel of deformation.
Most of the designs in my collection were either draped directly on to
the mannequin to develop the shape or toiled from my pattern and then
developed further with draping once on the mannequin. My designs en-
compass a chic downtown style, taking inspiration from utilitarian styles.
I would like my customers to feel a comfort and wearability in design
with an incorporated twist from traditional style. The collection features
stand out pieces but also wearable everyday designs, allowing the wearer
to combine the garments together or simply wear one piece mixed with
other designer or high street garments.
An important part of the process was designing two bespoke knits
for use in the collection. They symbolise twisting forms, their threads
unique but coming together, entangled, becoming a thing of beauty. My
knits are designed to give the collection, already rich in colours and
fabrics, a more slouchy edge and out of bed feel.
So dreadful, so desirable, so dear (Swinburne, 1863, p.105, Hermaphro-
ditus).
Male/Female, Striking/Wearable, Benevolent/Malign, Attraction/Repul-
sion my collection has been inspired by the natural power of opposites
and how, no matter how diferent they may be, they always seem drawn
together.
My research began with perhaps one of the most shocking examples of
dualism to be found in nature, hermaphrodites. Not only are they a case
study in dichotomy, but societys reaction to them itself swings to both
ends of a contrasting spectrum, from fascination, desire and intrigue to
fear, disgust and hate.
Taking this as inspiration for my collection from historical sources, art
and photography, I then explored the relationship between function and
design with the aim of producing looks which are a blend of voluminous
shapes with wearability, feminine pieces with masculine elements. Div-
ing deeper into the subject brought me to a study of the human body,
followed ultimately by research into both the variations of symmetry and
contrasting forms as inspiration for silhouettes.
Collection Overview
AW 15/16
Collection Overview
AW 15/16
Commercial Collection
AW 15/16
Commercial Collection
AW 15/16
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Knitwear Development
AW 15/16
Flat bed machine knit 7G
Tension 5
Stockinette knit stitch
Graduating point detailing
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Flat bed machine knit 7G
Tension 5
Stockinette knit stitch
Graduating point detailing
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Flat bed machine knit
Laddering wire detail
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Flat bed machine knit 7G
Tension 5
E-wrap knit stitch
Laddering detail
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Flat bed machine knit 7G
Tension 5
E-wrap knit stitch
Laddering detail
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Flat bed machine knit 7G
Tension 5
Stockinette knit stitch
Seporate twisting crocheted on top
Laddering detail
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Hand knit 5mm
Stockinette knit stitch
2 x 2 Rib stitch aound
neckline and wrists
PlaIt twisting down each
sleeve
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Hand knit 5mm
Stockinette knit stitch
Plait twisting from
shoulder to wristline
2 x 2 rib stitch aound
neckline and wrists
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Look 1
AW 15/16
Jumpsuit with shirt collar
Oversized pocket at back
Pouch pockets at sides
Belt at waist and epaulettes
Fully lined
Coat with oversized lapel
Belt at waistline
Oversized pocket at front
Back vent
Fully lined and facing at
lapel
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Look 2
AW 15/16
Knitted loose ftted
vest top
E-wrap and ladder
knit technique
Scooped neckline
Trouser with draw
string front
Facing at waistline
Darts at waistline
Zip fastening at the
center back
French seam fnishing
Cape with stand collar
and belt
Arm openings at front
Epaulettes on both
shoulders
Fully bound
Facing at front and arm
holes
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Look 3
AW 15/16
Knitted loose ftted A-line
dress
E-wrap and ladder knit
technique
Scooped neckline
Button fastening at centre
back
Separate e-wrap knit collar
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Look 4
AW 15/16
Knitted loose ftted vest top
E-wrap and ladder knit
technique
Scooped neckline
High waisted trouser with
belt at waistline
Pouch pockets at sides
Darts at waistline
Zip fastening at the center
back
Fully lined
Trench with stand collar
and lapel
Belt at waistline and
wristlines
Epaulettes on both
shoulders
Fully bound
Facing at front
Vent opening at back
Welt pockets
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Look 5
AW 15/16
Jumpsuit with scoop
neckline
Yoke with double pockets
at front
Pouch pockets at sides
Belt at waist
Finishing french seam
Zip fastening at centre
back
Knitted loose ftting
jumper
Twisting down both arms
from shoulder to wristline
2 x 2 rib at wristlines and
waist hem
Zip fastening at centre
front
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Look 6
AW 15/16
Dress with shirt collar
Epaulettes at shoulder
French seamed
Drawstring at waistline
Facing bound at armholes
Knitted loose ftting jumper
Twisting from shoulder to
wristline
2 x 2 rib at wristlines and
waist hem
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Corset development by
draping the pattern on the
mannequin
Oragami inspired detail
Project II
Waters Of Immortality
Just lost, when I was saved!
Just felt the world go by!
Just girt me for the onset with
Eternity,
When breath blew back,
And on the other side
I heard recede the disappointed
tide!
Therefore, as One returned, I feel
Odd secrets of the line to tell!
Some Sailor, skirting foreign
shores
Some pale Reporter, from the aw-
ful doors
Before the Seal!
Next time, to stay!
Next time, the things to see
By Ear unheard,
Unscrutinized by Eye
Next time, to tarry,
While the Ages steal
Slow tramp the Centuries,
And the Cycles wheel!
Emily Dickinson
Collection Overview
SS 14/15
Collection Overview
SS 14/15
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Navy blue dip dye experimentation
on white cotton poplin
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Pleating development on
green metallic chifon
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Muslin painted frst with
white fabric paint and then
embroidered on top with
steel composition thread
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Bleaching experimentation
on burgundy jersey to
depict a fuid moving
liquid form
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More foiling developments on
muslin encorporating the use
of: 1. basket weave, 2.plaiting,
3. individual placement
Look 1
SS 14/15
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Look 2
SS 14/15
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Look 3
SS 14/15
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Menswear
SS 14/15
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Ones perception of death can vary greatly from person to person. On
refelection my interpretation depicts a journey. Starting with the initial
sufocating sense of life slipping away, to the cold isolation of the situation
as the recognition of coming fate leads to physical contortion before the
fnal moment of the body becoming encased by death...
Project III
The End Is Near
Collection Overview
Collection Overview
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Project IV
A Dark Take On Nature and Adventure
A story of nature: the enjoyment of adventure and enchantment of dark-
ness. Designed to enchant the client, with a wash of detailing and drama to
transport the wearer to a place of no boundaries or limitations, of freedom
and sensuality. Welcome to a new world
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Draping process of silhouette
development

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Structural development of
layered pleating to create volume

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Continuation of structural
development to produce the base
silhouette for my collection

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Project V
Illustrations
Drawing development: skin rendering and realistic fabric representation
through pencil and pantone. My frst year at Istituto Marangoni...
Juanita Huber-Millet
Designer