Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Made in Europe
Almost every fashion label outside the top luxury brands is
either already manufacturing in Asia or thinking of it.
Coach, the US leather goods maker, is a classic example.
Over the past five years, it has lifted gross margins1 from 55
per cent to ! per cent by manufacturing solely in lo"#cost
markets. $n %arch &''& it closed its factory in (ares, )uerto
*ico, its last company#o"ned plant, and no" outsources all its
products.
+urberry has many Asian licensing arrangements2. $n &''' it
decided to rene" Sanyo,s -apanese licence for !' years..his
means that almost half of +urberry,s sales at retail value "ill
continue to be produced under licence in Asia. At the same
time, ho"ever, -apanese consumers prefer the group,s
/uropean#made products.
Sanyo is no" reacting to this demand for a snob3 0a1 th2ch l3m sang
alternative to the +urberry products made in its factories
across Asia by opening a flagship store4 in .okyo,s 4in5a,
"here it sells +uberry imported from /urope.
$n intervie"s "ith the 6., many executives say the top luxury
brands "ill continue to be seen, particularly in Asia, as
/uropean .7omenico 7e Sole, "ho is to step do"n next year
from chief executive of 4ucci, the 6lorentine fashion and
leather goods group, says8 9.he Asian consumer really does
believe # "hether it,s true or not # that luxury comes from
/urope and must be made there to be the best.
Serge :einberg, chief executive of )inault )rintemps
*edoute, "hich controls 4ucci, says it "ill not move 4ucci,s
production offshore5.
;et some in the industry recognise that change may be round
the corner even for the super#luxury brands. )atri5io +ertelli,
chief executive of )rada, says 9.he ,%ade in $taly, label is
important but "hat "e are really offering is a style, and style is
an expression of culture. <e therefore recognises that =uality
fashion items may not al"ays need to be produced in $taly.
Amitava Chattopadhyay, professor of marketing at $nsead, the
business school, says8 9A brand is a set of associations6 in
the mind of the consumer and one of these is the country of
origin. 96or luxury goods, the role of the brand is crucial. .o
damage it is a cardinal sin7 and no brand manager "ill "ant
to get the manufacturing location and brand image "rong.9
FINANCIAL TIMES
Sn xut ti ch!u "u
<>u h?t c@c nhAn hiBu thCi trang ngo3i c@c thDEng hiBu
siFu cao cGp hoHc l3 IA sJn xuGt K chLu M hoHc Iang nghN
tOi viBc n3y.
Coach, mPt hAng sJn xuGt IQ da cRa %S, l3 mPt v2 dT IiUn
hVnh. <En nWm nWm =ua, hAng IA nLng IDXc sY l#i g$p1
cRa mVnh nhC viBc chR y?u sJn xuGt K c@c thZ trDCng c[
chi ph2 thGp. .h@ng \ nWm &''&, hAng n3y IA I[ng c]a
nh3 m@y cuYi c^ng cRa n[ K (aures, )uerto *ico v3 thuF
gia c_ng ngo3i to3n bP sJn ph`m.
+urberry c[ nhiau h%p &'ng cho thu( gi) ph*p +inh
doanh2 K chLu M. bWm &''', hAng IA =uy?t IZnh ra hcn
cho giGy phdp cRa hAng Sanyo, bhet +Jn thFm !' nWm
nfa. giau I[ c[ nghNa l3 g>n mPt n]a doanh thu b@n lh
cRa +urberry si ti?p tTc IDXc tco ra nhC nhfng giGy phdp
K chLu M. bhDng trong ljc I[, ngDCi tiFu d^ng bhet +Jn
lci Da th2ch c@c sJn ph`m IDXc sJn xuGt K chLu ku hEn.
<iBn giC, Sanyo Iang phJn lng lci vOi nhu c>u s3i nhfng
h3ng mxZnn thay cho nhfng sJn ph`m IDXc sJn xuGt chLu
M bong viBc mK nhfng c,a h-ng b.n &' ch/nh h#ng4 K
.okyops 4in5a, nEi b@n c@c sJn ph`m +urberry nhep kh`u
tq chLu ku.
.rong nhfng cuPc phrng vGn vOi 6., nhiau nh3 =uJn trZ
n[i rong c@c thDEng hiBu cao cGp h3ng I>u si ti?p tTc
IDXc nhVn thGy K chLu M csng nhD K chLu ku vey. tng
7omenico 7e Sole cRa hAng 4ucci ph@t biUu8 mChDa bi?t
Ijng sai th? n3o nhDng ngDCi tiFu d^ng chLu M tin rong
nhfng sJn ph`m cao cGp cRa chLu ku thV chu c[ sJn xuGt
tci chLu ku mOi l3 tYt nhGtn.
Serge :einberg, .vng gi@m IYc cRa )inault )rintempts
*eudoute nEi Iiau h3nh hAng 4ucci n[i rong si kh_ng
IDa viBc sJn xuGt cRa 4ucci ra n01c ngo-i5 .
.uy vey, mPt v3i hAng trong ng3nh nhen thGy rong nhfng
thay Ivi swp s]a xJy ra them ch2 l3 vOi c@c thDEng hiBu
siFu cao cGp. )atri5io +ertelli, tvng gi@m IYc cRa )rada
n[i8 mC@i nhAn m%ade in $talyn l3 =uan trxng nhDng thl
chjng t_i thyc sy mang I?n l3 phong c@ch, v3 phong c@ch
l3 mPt sy biUu hiBn cRa vWn h[an. +Ki th?, _ng nhen thGy
rong nhfng sJn ph`m thCi trang chGt lDXng kh_ng nhGt
thi?t phJi sJn xuGt tci chLu ku.
Amitava Chattopadhyay, 4i@o sD ng3nh %arketing cRa
trDCng kinh doanh $nsead n[i8 m .hDEng hiBu l3 m$t chu2i
nh3ng li(n t04ng6 trong tLm tr2 ngDCi tiFu d^ng v3 mPt
Iiau trong sY I[ l3 xuGt xl cRa sJn ph`m. gYi vOi c@c sJn
ph`m cao cGp thV vai trz cRa thDEng hiBu l3 tYi =uan trxng.
<u{ hoci Iiau n3y l3 mPt tr5ng t$i7 v3 kh_ng mPt nh3
=uJn trZ thDEng hiBu n3o muYn l3m mGt Ii sy cLn bong
gifa IZa IiUm sJn xuGt h3ng ho@ v3 hVnh Jnh thDEng hiBu.
Unit 2 : Travel
Road ragers in the sky
Airlines and their long-suffering customers are reporting a
steep climb in air rage incidents. Some incidents are
apparentl caused b problems familiar to nearl all regular air
tra!ellers. "ne case reported from America stemmed from
1
an
interminable
2 #a$ !% t&n
dela in ta'eoff( )hen passengers )ere
cooped up