Washing machine fill hose, stainless

steel, 5 ft. with washers

Inglis, Whirlpool
drive block - direct
drive


Motor - 2 Speed
2 Speed Motor used
on many Whirlpool/
Kenmore brands
direct drive clothes

Direct drive washer - won't spin service aid....

Quick tips....Slow or no spin....
1. Lid open.
2. Lid switch defective. ( Very Common problem )
3. Lid switch disconnect plug open/burnt.
4. Clothes between basket and outer tank.
5. Lint filter caught between the wash basket and outer holding
tank.
6. Wiring harness.
7. Bad motor capacitor ( How to check )
8. Weak clutch.
9. Timer switches. ( possible not allowing the pause required for
the transmission to set up to spin )
10. Motor.
11. Cam driver on basket drive broken or basket drive weak.
12. Spin tube.
washers.



3 Speed Motor used
on many Whirlpool/
Kenmore Brands
direct drive clothes
washers.



Motor drive coupler


13. Notches in drive block worn out and not engaging basket
drive shaft.
14. Broken motor coupling. See Replacing Motor Coupler Page
15. Read a bit on how the washer works as well.

If your washer will not spin...first thing is to consider if washer is
RUNNING and not spinning or NOT RUNNING and not spinning. If
the washer is NOT running ( or working intermittently ) check lid
switch for continuity. Broken lid switch arm and the lid switch
probe should be checked as well. Something NEW to check for
when looking at that lid switch. Always a good idea to check for
clothing between the tanks as well. Make sure nothing has gone
through one of the inner basket holes and is now scrapping or
jamming the tub from moving, such items may be a nail, pin, bra
under wire.
Read a bit on how the washer works as well.
If washer IS running, remove power and remove cabinet. Use a
piece of insulated wire to by-pass the lid switch wires, turn the
timer to spin and pull out the knob, push the knob back in and pull
it out again. Watch for the clutch drum to turn ( brown section in
picture A ). If it is turning but the inner wash tub is not, then more
often than not you have a worn clutch lining or a weak spin spring,
also the brake may have seized up. If the clutch drum is not
turning and washer is not spinning, often the failure is in the
transmission gear box. ( see picture B ).





Common direct
drive lid switch





You may have to get the gear-case out. Then take a look at that tan
colored part in the middle of this picture.

Part Number:


Model Number:

Advanced Search





If the 2 drive "fingers" are broken off, the clutch can't dis-engage
the brake and this means no spin.

Drive block may be worn out. This sometimes is accompanied by
some strange noises as well, but a worn drive block will also stop
the spin from working. You will need to remove the agitator to see
the drive block.
This is a link on how to access the clutch - transmission.
*Some* washers have a lint filter ( #12 ) attached to the underneath
part of the inner wash basket. If this breaks and starts to fall off,
the filter can jam the wash basket from spinning.


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visual, simple and
almost foolproof

*This is the same procedure for checking and air conditioner,
refrigerator, washing machine capacitor as well*

With the microwave unplugged, use a metal ( not the shiny
chrome type ) screw driver with a insulated handle to short
across ( touch both at the same time ) the terminals of the high
voltage capacitor to discharge it.
This is a common way to do this....
If the wire terminals and wires are coated ( not bare metal) you
can use a pair of needle nose pliers with insulated handles to
short/discharge across the capacitor.













Set your needle meter to an OHM scale, Example: Rx1
Touch your leads together and 0 ( zero ) out your meter with the
adjustment wheel.

With wires off of the capacitor ( write down where they go first! )...
touch the cap terminals ( red lead on left and black lead on
right )...the needle should move away from the infinity ( probably
left side ) and move slightly ( towards the right side ) and go back
to infinity...reverse leads and ( red lead on right side and black
lead on the left side ) on the cap and the needle should move
away from infinity even further and then go back to infinity = a
good cap. ( note - some caps have a built in resistor that you may
read ) ( refresh page will start the animate picture again)
Animated picture help compliments of Danone Web Design

If the meter needle goes all the way over to the right side and
stays there = a shorted capacitor. ( refresh page will start the animate








picture again)
Animated picture help compliments of Danone Web Design

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breakdown sites,
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manuals

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1. Check or replace lid switch
2. Remove the cabinet
3. Replace the cabinet
4. Replace or service pump
5. Replace or check motor coupling
6. Replace or check motor
7. Remove inner basket
8. Replacing motor switch
9. Slide show on "How to access" the cabinet on a direct drive
washer




Direct drive coupling used
between the motor and the
transmission on direct drive model
Whirlpool/Kenmore washing
machines. The coupling is the
newly redesigned in. triangular in.
model that is more robust than the
older round style





Inglis, Whirlpool, Kenmore Direct drive washers - How to take
apart:
Disconnect power first 1. Remove the cabinet. This is the first
repair procedure on this type machine. You must be able to
disassemble and put the washer together in order to accomplish
repairs. Begin by removing the 2 screws in the control console.
Picture. Some screws are now hidden behind plastic covers.
Picture. On some newer style washers the consol screws are now
on the back of the consol. Picture. Pull forward and up on the
console and you can hinge it open and hanging from the hinges.
Using the flat blade screwdriver remove the two brass colored
clips that hold the cabinet to the rear of the washer. Picture.
Unplug the wires leading to the lid switch. Picture. Pull the
cabinet toward you and tilt it. It will disconnect from the base of
the washer and come completely off. Picture. You are now where
you can make repairs on about any component in the washer.



Disconnect power first 2. Replace the cabinet. Look at the base of




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Inglis, Whirlpool
drive block - direct
drive



the washer on the sides. You will see two extrusions or metal
tabs that mate with slots in the bottom of the cabinet. The cabinet
has a lip on the bottom front that goes under the bottom frame of
the washer. Picture. Place the lip under the base, let the cabinet
down to mate to the extrusions on the base. Line the back up to
the cabinet and replace the brass colored clips that hold the back
of the washer to the cabinet. Plug the lid switch back in. Put
console back in place and install the screws holding console.



Disconnect power first 3. Check or change the lid switch. Unplug
the washer. Check the actuator on the lid that operates the lid
switch to see if broken. Open the console of the washer. After
removing the screws, the console will lift up and hinge back.
Disconnect the plug going to the lid switch. Picture. Check the lid
switch [lid closed] with an ohm meter from the wire plug-in
leading to the switch. If no continuity, replace the lid switch. You
will need to remove the cabinet to replace the switch. There are
only a couple screws holding the lid switch assembly and a
ground wire connection to the cabinet. Reassemble the washer
and test the operation.
Unplug washer, remove the two consol screws and tilt console
back, remove cabinet clips, unlock lid switch block and then
remove the cabinet. Remove the lid switch mounting screws,
disconnect ground wire and remove lid switch assembly.
Compare old switch to the new one. If the plastic sleeve of the
new switch is longer, break off at the score mark. Pull wire
partially out of sleeve before shortening sleeve. If the sleeve had
to be shortened, the wires must be looped to take up the excess
wire. Use supplied wire tie from the new kit. Install new switch
assembly. New lid switch pictures are here.



Disconnect power first 4. Pump service. In order to service the
Motor - 2 Speed
2 Speed Motor
used on many
Whirlpool/Kenmore
brands direct drive
clothes washers.




3 Speed Motor
used on many
Whirlpool/Kenmore
Brands direct drive
clothes washers.





pump, remove the cabinet. The pump is located on the end of the
motor shaft. Remove the 2 thumb clips holding the pump to the
motor, pry off clips with a flat screwdriver. Picture Place a
container under pump to catch water and remove the clamps
from hoses. The drain pump normally will pull off of the motor
shaft, pull straight out on the pump towards you. The pump
sometimes will become "frozen" to the motor shaft as the motor
shaft can rust. You may have to break the old pump off the motor
shaft if it has frozen itself onto the shaft, a large straight screw
driver and a hammer can do this. I usually split the pump open
using the flat screwdriver, use caution when hitting the
screwdriver with the hammer so you do not drive the screwdriver
through the pump and damage the motor. If the motor shaft is
rusted, you should sand and clean up the shaft before installing
the new pump. Change hoses to the new pump. Line the shaft of
the motor up with the impeller slot on the pump, and push the
new pump on the motor shaft. Replace thumb clamps and
Replace the cabinet. Check your repair.
Line up the slots on the motor shaft and center of the pump.
Picture.



Disconnect power first 5. Motor coupling. 6. Motor replacement.
The motor to transmission coupling replacement is a common
repair on this style washer. Start by removing the cabinet.
Remove the pump from the motor shaft, this is not needed if just
replacing the motor coupler. You may be able to shift the motor &
pump off to one side. If you are replacing the motor = the pump
must come off. It is not necessary to take the hoses loose. Tie the
pump out of the way after getting it off the motor shaft, if needed.
Unplug the motor wire harness. Picture. Unscrew the two 5/16
sheet metal screw holding the mounting clamps to the motor.
Release the thumb clamps and take motor loose from
transmission. You have reached the point where you can replace
the three pieces of the motor coupling. Picture. Picture. Picture.
Look at the old pieces to see how to assemble the new, Here is a
picture pointing them out. Picture Place either of the two new
white couplings on the transmission shaft with the teeth facing
toward the motor. Use an 1/2"socket as a press, place it over the








Common direct
drive lid switch

center of the coupling and lightly tap it onto the shaft, taking care
not to damage the three little prongs. Place the black rubber
union over the prongs on the coupling you just installed. Now,
tap the other coupling onto the rear shaft of the motor, prongs
facing back toward transmission. The motor can now be re-
installed, take care to line up the three prongs with the remaining
holes in the union. This can be helped by rotating the motor shaft
slightly while holding it up to the coupling. Also, remember that
the four rubber caps on the motor mount must match up with the
four indents on the frame. Once the coupling is engaged, apply
the clips & screws to the motor. Hook up the wires, install the
pump and you're finished. Hook thumb clamps, replace the two
screws. Put pump back on motor shaft and hook thumb clamps.
Replace the cabinet and check your repair.
If you need a little more motor help, please that page.



Disconnect power first 7. Remove the basket. To remove the
inner basket you will need a spanner tool to remove the inner
basket, remove the agitator, remove the tank cover, remove the
nut and lift up of the inner basket. You may be able to get away
with using a straight screw driver and a hammer. Once the tub
nut is off, sometimes the tub gets frozen to the center hub. If the
tub will not lift out, sometimes putting one foot inside of the tub
and stomping down will break it free. Two people, one on each
side can also lift up and push down at the same time, may also
break the inner basket free.



Disconnect power first. Unplug washer, remove the cabinet,
remove the pump, disconnect motor harness. See fig one.
Disconnect 2 terminal plug ( 3 speed motors only ). remove the
motor start switch. See fig one. Remove start switch by removing
mounting screw, see fig one. Install new switch, using original









mounting screw. The switch lever must be on top of actuator
sleeve inside the motor. See fig two. Connect the motor wires to
the start switch. See fig three. Connect harness plugs ( 3 speed
only ). Connect motor harness. Install the pump, install the
cabinet. Plug in washer and test.

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Spanner nut wrench
for Whirlpool/
Kenmore, General
Electric & Maytag inner
tub lock nuts
For Whirlpool/Kenmore,
General Electric and Maytag
inner tub lock nuts.
Item #
1021707
Price $19.95
In Stock?
Yes
Qty


Order now and
this item will ship
today. Guaranteed!
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1


Washer Magic
washing machine
cleaner. Removes
lime scale, soap
scum, iron and
mineral stains




Replacement 10 ft
fill hose for either
hot or cold water
inlet hose.


Direct Drive Washers - Inglis, Whirlpool, some Kenmore....

Having trouble knowing which Whirlpool, Inglis or Kenmore
washer you have, please pull out your washer a little and look at
the back panel to see which style of washer you have...then see
picture here, the picture will help you find out if you have a belt
drive or a direct drive.
Always remember Electricity is dangerous and should be treated
with respect.
Please pick a topic by Make and or problem...hope you find this
helpful :-)

1. Agitation problems and agitator dog repair aid info
2. Automatic dispenser information
3. Common problems with Inglis, Whirlpool, Kenmore direct
drive style of washers
4. Diagnostic Direct Drive washer chart from American appliance
5. How a washer works, good to read this first
6. Help for storing an appliance


Universal Stainless
Steel Water Fill Hose



Universal type 6 ft.
drain hose


Direct drive
coupling used
between the motor
and the
transmission on
direct drive models

7. How does the agitator come off my washer ??
8. How to prevent socks from getting into your pump
9. Ohm test a common direct drive motor
10. How to by-pass a lid switch for testing the washer
11. Basic information: Inglis, Whirlpool, Kenmore Direct drive
washers
12. Inglis, Whirlpool, Kenmore Direct drive washers - How to
take apart - Cabinet off, cabinet on, checking or replacing a lid
switch, replace the pump, replace motor coupling or motor.
13. Inglis, Whirlpool and Kenmore direct drive washer- useful
parts breakdowns
14. Important disclaimer
15. My clothes have a whiting on them that looks like lint.
16. My washer has a funky odor
17. Noises
18. Ohm meter testing a motor capacitor
19. Slow water fills
20. The wash tubs on my direct drive washer are leaning to the
right...why?
21. Timer stalls or missing cycles
22. Timer will not advance
23. Tips on changing a common washer fill valve
24. To learn more about washing machines, click here
25. Washer Basics: Filling with water



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Deodorizer works
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Universal Stainless
Steel Water Fill Hose





26. Washer leaks water
27. Washer moves around to much
28. Washer will not spin
29. Washer sample wiring diagrams
30. Washer spins and agitates at the same time
31. Washer belts: If your belt on any washer looks like these,
replace the belt(s).
32. Washer runs but wont agitate or spin
33. Washer won't run, agitate or spin
34. What is that black power powder or filings under my
washer??










Inglis, Whirlpool, Kenmore Direct drive washers: This machine is
a forward/reversing style of washer. The motor drives one







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Accessories -
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direction to wash, stops, reverses and goes the other direction to
spin and pump. The timer is responsible for cycling the motor
back and forth. As the "direct drive" name indicates, there is no
belt on this machine, but it has a coupler between the motor and
the gear box. Most ( not all ) direct drive washers are a neutral
drain washer, means the timer allows the washer to pump out the
water and then the timer pauses ( stops ) the washer so the
neutral drive in the gearbox can reset for spinning, and when the
timer allows the washer to start back up again the pumping will
continue and spinning will occur. You should be able to see the
pauses on the washer wiring diagram flow chart.










Common problems with Inglis, Whirlpool, Kenmore style of
washers: disconnect power first
Washer/motor runs but wont agitate or spin...this is often a
broken motor coupler. See how to take apart info.
Leaks water...check the pump first. The fill valve and hoses may
be the next step. See how to take apart info. With the use of
plastic drain hoses on many machines today, this has become a
common leak trouble maker. The drain hose can rub the wall or a
pipe and this will rub a hole in the drain hose.













Washer has trouble agitating... Check the agitator dogs inside
the top of the agitator, they are bad for wearing out, sometimes
the agitator may only agitate one way when the dogs are worn
out. This is an instruction sheet that came with the last parts I
ordered for a Whirlpool/Inglis style direct drive washer agitator. If
you need to replace your agitator dogs, please see this link for
some repair aid.











Top Selling Tools &
Hardware

Washer spins and agitates at the same time...Unfortunately this
is often a bad gear box transmission.
Gearcase for direct drive washer










Washer wont run or spin...check the lid switch and lid switch
wires first, Picture. Make sure the lid switch "clicks" and you
should test it with a ohm meter. The timer is suppose to allow a
"pause" before the machine can switch into pump and spin. If
the timer misses this pause, the washer may not spin = new
timer time. For some "how to test" for a no spin problem, please
see here. Burnt wire ( esp at the motor ) can stop the washer
from running. The start capacitor can prevent the motor from
running, the start capacitor can be beside the motor, or up in the
consol area. How to ohm meter test a capacitor.
Bad cord or house fuse, try a radio in the washer power outlet to
make sure it is live.



Today's Deals






Appliance Parts













Timer wont advance... Locate the 2 small black wires going to the
timer motor, check these with the washer running for 120 volts.
Power there and the timer won't advance = a bad timer.





















Missing cycles or timer stalls in middle of cycle...often this is a
timer contact problem, remove power, access the timer and
remove metal or plastic cover. Look for blackened or burnt
contacts. If the timer contacts are pitted black or burnt, replace
the timer. If you have to "wiggle" the timer knob to make the
washer work, this is another timer problem, new timer time. New
picture of a timer with a burnt contact is here. If your timer is
moving part way through the cycle and then is stopping in
certain parts, this link here may help you out.









Inglis, Whirlpool, Kenmore Direct drive washers: - Noises
Sometimes something works it's way into the pump assembly,
this will make a clicking or scraping noise. When the motor drive
coupler starts to wear down, the washer may also become
noisy. Loose tub nut and drive block will be noisy in the spin
only. See how to take apart info.








Inglis, Whirlpool and Kenmore direct drive washer- useful parts
breakdowns.
One the base.....
Two the clutch.....
Three the tub.....
Four the top.....
Five the brake assembly.....
Six the transmission/gearbox.....


IMPORTANT DISCLAIMER: The Author of this web site assumes no
responsibility for inconveniences or damages resulting from use of
the information he supplies. The consumer or reader is individually
responsible for his or her use of the information supplied and uses
this information at their own risk. The author of this site has no
liability for errors, omissions, or any defects whatsoever in the
information or instructions, or for any damage or injury resulting from
the utilization of said information or instructions....

Appliance
Repair Aid
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Household tips
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maintenance
calendar

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Tools,
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maintenance
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Where is my
model # ??
Appliance Repair
Aid Home Page
Copyright 2000-
2006 All rights
reserved.




Whirlpool ( many Kenmore ) lid switches....





....are failing in a strange way. The switch can be ohmed and will
check ok, switch will make a "click" noise if you push a
screwdriver down the hole to activate it, the switch body is not
cracked or broken....but the switch is BAD!!

The internal workings of the switch has lost it's "value" and has
weakened....means the switch must be pushed all the way down to
activate it rather than being pushed about 1/2 down to activate the
switch normally. When the washer lid is closed, the lid probe goes
down through the hole but can no longer push far enough to
activate the switch. I have changed about many of these in the last
year for this problem.
Related links:
~ Accessing the lid switch on a direct drive washer
~ How to by-pass a lid switch for testing the washer


Appliance
Repair Aid
sections
Appliance &
Household tips
Appliance Fun
Stuff
Appliance news
Headlines,
Appliance recalls

Due to high costs
for keeping this site
running, please
consider making a
donation
FAQ Links section
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Phone #'s &
Locate a
warranty dealer/
service
Manufacture
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Metric Conversions
Need Parts? See
our ever growing
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sections
Need to
complain?
Purchase help /
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links
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breakdown sites,
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manuals
Tools,
Accessories &
maintenance
items
Where is my
model # ??
Take time
to visit
KitchenAid
Home
Appliances
They offer a full
line of Range
Hoods, Ranges,
Refrigerators,
Washers and
Dryers
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They have a full
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Hoods, Ranges,
Refrigerators,
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2004 All rights
reserved.










Under wires from braziers ( bra's ).....

A common problem with noises from washing machines and dryers
has been the under wire that may come out of a bra. In the washer
they can get stuck in one of the inner basket holes and make a
scrapping noise, they can actually make there way into the pump
and jam the pump, or make a terrible noise when the pump is
running. Grab a flash light and have a peek inside the washer for
this. Front load washers seem very common to this happen! In
dryers, they can get caught in one of the drum seals and make a
scrapping noise, ( remove power, grab a flash light and have a peek
inside through the door opening ) or the wire can actually pass
through one of the heating duct holes at the back of the drum and
touch something electrical like the heating element, thermostats. If
the bra is showing signs of fraying, may be best not to wash it in the
washing machine, replace the bra.


What an under wire looks like.....
New Fix-It-Yourself
Manual



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Accessories -
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LG Laundry
Machines Black
Washer/Dryer
Laundry Pedestal
with Storage
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A tip from an Appliance Repair Aid visitor Pam....
Here is an additional tip for those who wash under-wire bras. Placing
the bra in a garment bag and latching the back not only prevents
damage to appliances, but provides the bra with longer life. It makes
me wonder, though, if those reading this prefer to have their women
change their bras more frequently, keep it a secret.just remember
to replace it for her (take a bra in a concealed brown bag, or at least
take the size, style, and brand to ensure a proper fit). You get to pick
it out, look at lots of bras, you get to surprise her, and she gets to
wear a new bra. You both win!
Thank you for the tips Pam!! :-)

Appliance
Repair Aid
sections
Appliance &
Household tips
Appliance Fun
Stuff
Appliance news
Headlines,
Appliance recalls

Due to high costs
for keeping this site
running, please
consider making a
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FAQ Links section
Manufacture
Phone #'s &
Locate a warranty
dealer/service
Manufacture Web
sites
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our ever growing
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Search
Some parts
breakdown sites,
use&care manuals
Tools,
Accessories &
maintenance
items
Where is my
model # ??

Appliance Repair
Aid Home Page
Copyright 2000-
2006 All rights
reserved.



General washer information....
Always remember Electricity is dangerous and should be
treated with respect.
Please pick a topic by problem...hope you find this helpful :-)

1. Can my rubber fill hoses ever burst?
2. How a washer works, good to read this first
3. How does the agitator come off my washer?
4. Help for storing an appliance
5. Important disclaimer
6. My washing machine is over filling and the water goes up
and over the top and onto the floor
7. My clothes have a whiting on them that looks like lint
8. My washer slowly fills with water even will I am not using
it, or my washer drips water inside the washer all the time...







Do you think a
repair manual
would help you?
9. My washer has a funky odor
10. Noise tip for washers and dryers
11. Washer basic - filling with water "no fill" problems solvers
12. Washer basics - slow fill
13. Washer sample wiring diagrams
14. Washer belts: If your belt on any washer looks like this,
replace the belt(s)
15. Washer basic - how the water level control works








Washer Basics: Filling with water:
The water fill valve - The water fill valve is a mechanical and
electrical part, the coils on the valve need electricity to
mechanically open the valve to allow the water to flow into the
washer....myth....the washer pumps water into itself...no, it does
not. The fill valve opens and the house water pressure pushes
the water into the washing machine.



















No cold water or no hot water - The fill valve has two coils, one
for the hot water and one for the cold water. It is possible that
one of the coils can fail and you loose that filling ability. If the
cold water coil quits, the hot will still work and during warm fill
you will get hot water only and during a cold fill you will get no
water at all. If the hot coils quits, you will still have cold water fill,
cold water only on a warm setting and no water on a hot fill
setting. You can No cold water or no hot water - The fill valve
has two coils, one for the hot water and one for the cold water. It
is possible that one of the coils can fail and you loose that filling
ability. If the cold water coil quits, the hot will still work and
during warm fill you will get hot water only and during a cold fill
you will get no water at all. If the hot coils quits, you will still
have cold water fill, cold water only on a warm setting and no
water on a hot fill setting. You can test a fill valve live for 120 volts,
power to a fill valve coil and no fill = a bad fill valve. You can also test
the coils for continuity, no continuity = a bad fill valve. Some Maytag
washers have a fuse in the fill valve circuit, if this fuse let go the washer
will not fill. Fill valves can also from time to time stick open and not stop
filling. If you have to shut off the fill valves to stop the water from filling
in the washer, you have a bad fill valve and you will have to replace it.























Water level controls - The water level control is also know as a pressure
switch, this is where you set the water level ( small - medium - large ).
The water level control is responsible to shut off the power to the fill
valve and direct that power to the timer so the washing machine can
start up. The WLC has electrical contacts in it that sends power to the
fill valve and when the WLC is satisfied the water level is correct the
electrical contacts open power to the fill valve and send the power to the
timer and the washer starts. Picture of this here. How the water level
control knows when it is time to shut the water off is, a air tight hose
runs from the outer washer tank to the water level control. As the water
fills the outer tank air is pushed up the hose, depending on which setting
you have made ( small- medium - large ) is takes a certain amount of
this pressure to make the WLC cycle over and shut off the water and
send this power to the timer. If this hose develops a leak or a pin hole
the washer can over fill as the WLC may not be able to shut the water
off. The water level control can also break down and allow the washer to
over fill as well.
Testing a water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a
Testing a water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm
meter or a volt meter. Testing a water level control or a fill valve can be
done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter. Testing a water level control
or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter.
A couple of tips from readers (Thankx!! ):
~ If you have a loose hose on the water level control or tank end, use a
plastic wire tie to help hold the hose tighter and make a tight fit.
~ The water level tube (tube that runs from the square box),
access panel on the outer drum where the bleach tube also
ends) from the pressure sensor switch (front panel) can become
clogged. Or the two holes from the outer tub into this square
box panel on the outside of the outer tub can become clogged.
Either clog, I am told by my help repair guy can cause the sensor
to think that there is still too much water in the tub and so will
not allow motor to activate spin.
~ If the water level control contact is bad, it may also stop the
filling ok, but not tell the washer to start agitating.












Slow fill - A fill valve has screens built into it to prevent sediment from
entering the fill valve. Sometimes these screens can get plugged and will
need to be cleaned out with a old tooth brush. Just shut off the water,
remove the hot and cold fill hoses and clean out the screens on the
entrance of the fill valve. When ever possible, you should try not to
remove the screens from inside the fill valve entrance. The screens are in
the entrance of the fill valve. If the screens
are just too clogged or if you have removed them, install new screen-
washers in the fill hose end to prevent junk from getting inside the fill
valve. If all attempts to clean the fill valve has not
helped the fill pressure. Sometimes the fill valve can be damaged and
this is why it won't fill as fast as it used to, you may have to replace the
fill valve.























Water will still fill in my washer all the time.....My washer slowly fills
with water even will I am not using it, or my washer drips water inside
the washer all the time... This is often, if not all the time, a faulty fill
valve, the fill valve has mechanically stuck open and is not fully shutting
off when not the washer is not in use. This normally will become worse
and could flood over the top of the washer = big mess .... replace the fill
valve. The fill valve is the part the hot and cold water hoses are attached
to.







How does the agitator come off my washer?? There are many different
styles of washers and agitators. I have some picture of a few common
makes and the agitators and description on how they come off. Please
remember that the water, soap and chemicals sometimes "freezes" the
agitator on the washer shaft or hub and makes if very difficult to
remove it. Service technicians often have a special tool to help remove
"stuck" on agitators.
GE older style washer agitator
GE new style washer agitator
Whirlpool - Inglis - ( some) Kenmore style washer agitators

Washer Floor Tray -
Fits most standard,
large, and extra-
large washers.
Optional floor drain
connection
included. Tray
dimensions: Inner
dimension - 27" x
30" (Outer
dimension - 30" x
32") x 2" deep








Replacement 5 ft
fill hose for both
hot and cold water
inlet hoses.
Maytag Dependable Care style washer agitator
Maytag Atlantis - Norge - Performa by Maytag style washer agitator
Frigidaire - White Westinghouse style washer agitators
Amana style washer agitator




GE old style washer.....Remove agitator cap by pulling it off and look for
a bolt, remove the bolt and pull up hard on the agitator.( not all have a
bolt ) ...picture.

GE new style washer.....I use a old dryer belt or rope to help remove the
agitator, hook the rope/belt under the lower agitator fins and make the
loops to the top, use a board to help "pop" up the agitator, lift up on the
side of the board that is sticking out further...picture.

(1) Whirlpool, Inglis, (some) Kenmore washer..... Remove the agitator
cap, some caps unscrew and some will just pull off. Look for a bolt and
remove the bolt, lift up on the agitator...picture1, picture2.
(2) Whirlpool, Inglis, (some) Kenmore washer.....Remove the agitator
cap, some caps unscrew and some will just pull off. Look for a plastic
bolt and remove the bolt, the plastic bold will have a square in the
middle that the square end of the shaft of an socket extension ( or a very
large flat screw driver ) will fit into the square hole to unscrew the
plastic nut off...remove the upper 1/2 of the agitator....remove the bolt
holding down the bottom 1/2 of the agitator, lift up on the agitator.








Universal type 6 ft.
drain hose








Universal Stainless
Steel Water Fill
Hose

Maytag Dependable care washer.....Locate a 1/4 inch screw on the side
of the agitator, ( about 3/4 of the way down) remove this screw and lift
up on the agitator...picture.

Maytag Atlantis, Norge, Performa by Maytag.....Remove the cap and
softener dispenser by pulling it off and locate the agitator bolt, remove
bolt and lift up on the agitator...picture.

Frigidaire washer.....older style, unscrew the agitator cap and bolt, lift
up on the agitator...picture1...picture2
Frigidaire washer new style, remove center cap ( this was difficult to do )
by lifting up really hard on the center tab ( I needed pliers to do this ),
locate bolt and remove it and lift up on the agitator...picture.

Amana washer.....The older washers have a bolt under the cap that must
be removed to remove the agitator, then grab hold of the agitator and
lift up. The newer washer agitator just pulls out, remove cap, if no bolt,
just grab hold and lift up hard...picture.


Washer sample wiring diagrams:
Frigidaire newer style washer.....
Inglis, Whirlpool, Kenmore direct drive washer.....
Inglis, Whirlpool, Kenmore belt drive washer.....
GE newer style washer.....
GE older style washer.....
Maytag older washer.....Dependable care





Maytag new style.....Dependable care
Magic Chef, Norge older style washer (with brake solenoid).....
Maytag Atlantis washer.....


IMPORTANT DISCLAIMER: The Author of this web site assumes no
responsibility for inconveniences or damages resulting from use of the
information he supplies. The consumer or reader is individually responsible
for his or her use of the information supplied and uses this information at
their own risk. The author of this site has no liability for errors, omissions, or
any defects whatsoever in the information or instructions, or for any damage
or injury resulting from the utilization of said information or instructions....








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Appliance Parts
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Inner Tub , Transmission , Clutch , Basket Drive - direct drive
Whirlpool / Kenmore / Roper / Kitchen Aid washer
If you have ever tried to check out the direct drive washer manufactured by Whirlpool Corp., you found out pretty quickly that you can't hardly do
anything until the cabinet is removed. The older Whirlpool Corp. washers with a belt do not have a removable cabinet.
Back of
Direct Drive
Back of
Belt Drive Washer

While it may sound like a pain to have to remove the cabinet, in reality it is really simple, and it makes
getting to the parts a breeze.
All you need is a Phillips screwdriver and a flat blade screwdriver.
First step, of course is to unplug the machine. Then remove the 2 Phillips screws on the bottom of the timer
console.

The timer console in hinged in the back. Pull the console forward slightly to clear the hooks on the bottom
of the end caps, and roll the console up from the bottom on it's hinges.
Under the console you will see a 3 wire harness that is plugged into the top of the cabinet. Unplug this
harness
Using the flat blade screwdriver, pop off the 2 metal clips that are holding the back panel to the top of the
cabinet. These clips are sort of "S" shaped, and are located near the left and right edges of the top of the
cabinet.
Grasp the cabinet on each side, pull the top of the cabinet towards you to a 45 degree angle. Pull straight
back on the cabinet and it will slip right off.
Remove the pump clips and slide the pump off of the shaft
Note: If the pump has been leaking for awhile it will have rusted itself onto the motor shaft. Some can be
quite stubborn to get off and will require that you pry them off with a screwdriver. If the pump shaft is very
rusted be sure to clean the shaft well. Scrape the rust from the shaft using a screwdriver and then dress it
with emery cloth or a fine sandpaper. The new pump should slide on the motor shaft with out any force. If
you do not properly clean the shaft and force the pump on the shaft, it will break the pump.
Motor Front Shaft - check pump for leakage and check front bearing in motor for play
Unplug motor harness and capacito if used
Remove screws in motor clips
Pry motor clips loose
Remove motor

Remove Motor mounting plate
Turning the transmission input shaft one direction causes the transmission to agitate, the other direction
causes it to turn the clutch causing it to spin.
Remove agitator cap or fabric softener dispenser
Remove bolt holding agitator in.
Remove top tub ring
Remove fill funnel
Remove nut holding inner tub in. right to tighten, left to loosen. Lift tub out. You may have to rock the inner
tub to get it to break loose from the drive block. Pushing downward on one side of the top of the tub then
the other side will sometimes help break it loose from the drive block
Note : The lint Filter on some washers is located on the bottom of the inner tub Click for a break down
Special Wrench for removing Tub
Nut
Or you can use a Punch and a
hammer.
Right to tighten, left to loosen
Tap upwards on the drive block to remove it
Notice that notches in drive block line up with tabs on basket drive tube
Remove 3 transmission bolts
Slide transmission out bottom.
Grasp plastic cam on basket drive and turn while pulling downwards


Basket drive components

Accessing clutch

Remove Washer

Removing Clip

Basket drive components

Accessing clutch

New Basket Drive and Clutch
Ready to go back in.
To replace the cabinet
G Put the cabinet up to the front edge of the base, open the lid so you can see the inside bottom of the
cabinet.
G Tilt the cabinet to a 45 degree angle and slip the bottom front lip of the cabinet under the front of the
base (make sure the console is hinged up).
G Now let the cabinet go down. There are 2 dowels on each side of the base that must match up with
slots on the side bottom lips of the cabinet.
G After the cabinet is in place, look at the back and make sure it is lining up properly on one side.
Reinstall the "S" bracket on that side.
G Now move to the other side. Line it up properly and reinstall the "S" bracket on that side.
G Plug in the harness.
G Lower the console, and reinstall the screws.

Back of cabinet locks into base


Side of cabinet NOT locked in Side of cabinet properly locked in.

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