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M9.2, 1964
M9.1, 2004
M9.0, 1952
M8.8, 1906
Fig. 3.1: Tectonic plate boundaries, significant earthquakes
from 2150 B.C. to 2007 and largest earthquakes since 1900.
The significant earthquakes meet at least one of the following
criteria: Moderate damage (approximately $1 million or
more), 10 or more deaths, Magnitude 7.5 or greater, Modified
Mercalli Intensity X or greater, or the earthquake generated a
tsunami. Courtesy of National Geophysical Data Center,
National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, U.S.A.,
(http://www.ngdc.noaa.gov/ngdc.html). The largest
earthquakes since 1900 are listed by U.S. Geological Survey
(http://earthquake.usgs.gov/regional/world/10_largest_world.
php)
When an earthquake occurs under the sea, part of the sea
floor is raised and subsided widely depending on the
fault mechanism of the earthquake (see Fig. 3.2). The
deformation creates a similar displacement of sea
surface above the deformed sea floor, since the sea
water depth is generally much less than a horizontal
scale of the displaced area. For example, the mean water
depth is 4 km in the Pacific Ocean and in contrast the
horizontal scale of sea bottom deformation by the
earthquake reaches some hundred kilometers in general.
Since the sea bottom is suddenly deformed and the
induced horizontal movement of sea water is less, the
sea surface is similarly deformed as the sea bottom.
Such s surface displacement forms an initial profile of
tsunami. The height of the surface displacement is a few
meters or less in general.
Plate
Plate
Subduction zone in a plate boundary
Tsunami
Sudden sea floor displacement
by earthquake
Fig. 3.2: Tsunami generation by earthquake in subduction
zone
There is an unusual earthquake that produces a large
tsunami relative to the earthquake magnitude. Such
earthquakes are called tsunami earthquake. Typical
characteristic of them is longer rupture duration than
would occur in normal earthquakes. Earthquakes may
cause deformation (rupture) on the earth surface. The
shape of the rupture (length, width, strike angle, focal
depth, displacement, dip angle, rake angle) at the sea
bottom controls the shape of the tsunami source (initial
wave) on the water surface.
There are three major features of the earthquakes:
moment, mechanism and focal depth.
Moment (Mo) measures the strength of an earthquake
and specifies the dimensions of the rupture. Moment is
the product of rigidity of the material at the source
region, fault area A, and average displacement of the
rupture.
Mechanism specifies the orientation of the rupture and
the direction of the slip on it. Usually, ruptures are
idealized as rectangular planes. Three angles summarize
the earthquake mechanism: the strike angle (the
direction of the fault axis, clockwise from North), dip
angle (inclination angle of the rupture plane from
horizontal after break), rake angle (angle of the slip
vector from horizontal). However earthquakes that
affect large vertical displacements of the seafloor would
be more effective than faults that make large horizontal
displacements. The earthquake mechanism (rupture
characteristics) causing larger dislocation on the ground
surface controls the tsunami source characteristics (size
and height of the tsunami initial wave).
Earthquake focal depth is the distance (in vertical
direction) between hypocenter and epicenter. Smaller
focal depth causes larger displacement on the ground
surface (rupture area). Presumably, shallow earthquakes
would produce higher potent tsunamis than similar deep
earthquakes. The speed of the rupture processes is also
another parameter. It must also be considered that slow
rupture processes are insufficient to excite high
frequency seismic waves and also tsunamis.
3.1.3. Tsunami Excitation by Submarine Landslides
Earthquakes can directly generate tsunamis. In some
cases, earthquake shaking may trigger submarine and/or
subaerial landslides and indirectly generate tsunamis.
The sliding of the accumulated material on the slopes of
narshore or submarine volcanoes are other examples.
The total volume of the landslide material is one of the
major parameters which affect the amplitude of the
landslide generated tsunamis even though several other
parameters also play important roles on this problem.
Some of these factors are in the following:
a) Depth at which the slide occurs,
b) Slope of the sliding surface
c) Total distance moved by the slide.
d) Duration of the slide.
e) Density of the slide material.
f) Grain size size and other geotechnical parameters
of the sliding material (grains size, coherent nature,
etc.
g) Characteristic speed of the slide movement.
Storegga Slide tsunami (30000 yers, 9000 years, and
7000-8000 years Before Present) and 1998 Papua New
Guinea tsunami are the examples of landslide generated
tsunamis.
3.1.4. Tsunami Excitation from Volcanic Eruptions
Tsunamis related to volcanic sources have complex
generation mechanisms. Volcanic activities caused
failures, debris avalanches, pyroclastic flow, massive
submarine and subaerial landslides, explosion and
collapse processes are capable of generating tsunamis.
Identifying the volcanic tsunami generation mechanisms
is directly related to the understanding of the caldera
formation processes and all other related concurrent
geotectonic activities during and after the submarine
volcano eruption.
There are numerous examples of volcanic tsunamis.
1630 BC Santorini (Thera) Tsunami, 1883 Karakatau
Tsunami are the major ones. 2002 Stromboli tsunami in
Mediterranean, 2003 Monserrat Tsunami in Caribbean
are the other examples.
3.1.5. Tsunami Excitation from Impacts
The impact of any object to water generates waves. If
this phenomenon occurs in the oceans with the impact of
large-diameter-objects such as meteorite, asteroid or
comet, then the wave generated may be large and it is
called tsunami.
A hit of an asteroid to the ocean at a very high speed
causes a gigantic explosion. The material and the water
vaporize and leave a huge crater of a typical size of 20
times as large as the diameter of the asteroid. That is, a
100m asteroid will cause form a crater with a diameter
size of 2 kilometers. The water rushes back, meets at the
center, superposes and creates a mountain of water at the
middle and spreads out as a massive wave - a tsunami.
The centre of the crater oscillates up and down several
times and a series of waves radiate out ward.
3.1.6 References
Yalciner, A. C., E. Pelinovsky, A. Zaytsev, A, Kurkin, C.
Ozer and H. Karakus (2006b): NAMI DANCE
Manual, METU, Civil Engineering Department,
Ocean Engineering Research Center, Ankara,
Turkey (http://namidance.ce.metu.edu.tr)
Yalciner, A. C., E. Pelinovsky, A. Zaytsev, A. Kurkin, C.
Ozer and H. Karakus (2007): Modeling and
visualization of tsunamis: Mediterranean
examples, from, Tsunami and Nonlinear Waves
(Ed: Anjan Kundu), Springer, 2731-2839.
Yalciner, A.C., H. Karakus, C. Ozer, G. Ozyurt (2005):
Short Courses on Understanding the Generation,
Propagation, Near and Far-Field Impacts of
Tsunamis and Planning Strategies to Prepare for
Future Events Course Notes prepared by METU
Civil Eng. Dept. Ocean Eng. Res. Center, for the
Short Courses in University of Teknologi
Malaysia held in Kuala Lumpur on July 11-12,
2005, and in Astronautic Technology Malaysia
held in Kuala Lumpur on April 24-May 06, 2006,
and in UNESCO Training on Tsunami Numerical
Modeling held in Kuala Lumpur on May 08-19
2006 and in Belgium Oostende on June 06-16,
2006.
3.2 TSUNAMI PROPAGATION AND
TRANSFORMATION
3.2.1 Wavelength, Wave Period and Propagation
Speed of Tsunami
Wavelength of the tsunami is determined by the initial
profile of tsunami. Since horizontal scale of the initial
tsunami profile is generally from several ten kilometers
to several hundred kilometers, the tsunami wavelengths
in tsunami source regions are extremely longer than sea
waves induced by winds, which we can see on beaches.
The wave-number proportional to inverse of wavelength
becomes very low for such a long wave, and fluctuations
with lower wave-number are less diminished during
propagation. The tsunami, therefore, can propagate over
a long distance with limited energy loss. For example,
the 1960 Chilean Tsunami occurring near the Chilean
coast in the South America traveled over the Pacific
Ocean and hit on the Hawaiian and Japanese coasts. The
2004 Indian Ocean Tsunami generated by the
earthquake off Sumatra Island also could propagate to
the east coast of the Africa Continent (see Fig. 3.3).
t=0 min t=20 min
t=60 min t=120 min
t=40 min
t=180 min
-1 0 1 2 3 m
Fig. 3.3: Propagation of the 2004 Indian Ocean Tsunami
The restoring force of the deformed initial tsunami
profile is provided by gravity. Tsunamis are, therefore,
subjected to dynamics of ocean surface waves. For a
long wave such as tsunamis, the following equation is
derived by the wave dispersion relation:
gd T L = (3.1)
in which L is the wavelength, T the wave period, d the
water depth and g the gravitational acceleration.
Following this relationship, the tsunami with longer
wavelength has longer wave period. In general, typical
wave period of tsunami is from ten minutes to an hour
or more, depending on wavelength and water depth.
Tsunami propagation speed (wave celerity in other
words) is calculated by Eq. (3.2) which is transformation
of Eq. (3.1):
gd T L c = = (3.2)
in which c is the tsunami propagation speed. From this
equation, the propagation speed of tsunami depends on
the water depth only and is illustrated in Fig. 3.4.
1
10
100
1000
10000
1 10 100 1000 10000
Water depth (m)
W
a
v
e
p
r
o
p
a
g
a
t
i
o
n
s
p
e
e
d
(
k
m
/
h
o
u
r
)
Fig. 3.4: Propagation speed of tsunami
In a very-shallow water area with the water depth
comparable to the tsunami height, the propagation speed
is affected by not only the water depth but the tsunami
height, and calculated by the following equation:
( ) + = d g c (3.3)
in which is the water surface elevation of tsunami.
3.2.2 Directionality of Tsunami Propagation
If the initial profile of tsunami is circle, part of tsunami
propagating in every direction away from the region of
tsunami source has equivalent wave energy. However,
since the profile generally has longer axis and shorter
axis, part of tsunami with higher wave energy
propagates in the direction normal to longer axis and
that of lower energy travels in the direction of longer
axis. For example, the initial profile of the 2004 Indian
Ocean Tsunami is 1,000 km long in the north-south
direction and 200 km wide in the east-west direction.
Therefore, high tsunami struck Sumatra Islands,
Thailand, Sri Lanka and India locating in the east- west
direction of the initial profile of the tsunami, resulting in
devastating damage caused there. Figure 3.5 indicates a
calculated distribution of maximum tsunami height of
the 2004 Indian Ocean Tsunami.
Fig. 3.5: Calculated distribution of the maximum tsunami
height of the 2004 Indian Ocean Tsunami
3.2.3 Distant Tsunami and Local Tsunami
The tsunami can strike coasts fairly far from the tsunami
source, since the tsunami can travel long distance. The
tsunami propagating from a far field is called Distant
Tsunami or Teletsunami. In contrary the tsunami
generated near a coast is called Local Tsunami, which
can hit the coast soon after the earthquake. The 2004
Indian Ocean Tsunami is the local tsunami for the
Sumatra Island, Indonesia, and is also the distant
tsunami for Thailand, Sri Lanka and other rim countries
of the Indian Ocean.
Before arrival of the local tsunami, people can feel
ground shaken by the earthquake in general. Therefore,
they may prepare countermeasures against the tsunami
before its arrival: i.e. evacuation to save their lives. In
contrast, since people cannot feel the ground motion for
the distant earthquake causing the teletsunami,
international cooperation to disseminate tsunami
warning is necessary to prepare something against the
coming tsunami.
3.2.4 Transformation of Tsunami
(1) Diffraction, refraction and reflection
The tsunami that is a series of long wave undergoes
wave diffraction, refraction and reflection in the same
way as ocean surface waves, depending on bathymetric
and topographic change (see Fig. 3.6). In Fig. 3.3, the
reflected tsunamis are also shown clearly as circular
waves propagating from the Sri Lankan Island in the
case of t = 180 min.
-1 0 1 2 3 4 5 m -1 0 1 2 3 4 5 m
Diffracted wave
Refracted wave
Reflected wave
Diffracted wave
Refracted wave
Reflected wave
Fig. 3.6: Diffraction, refraction and reflection of tsunami
(2) Enlargement of tsunami height
Tsunami height, which is normally defined as the
distance from a tsunami wave crest to the sea surface
without disturbance of tsunami (see Fig. 3.7), may be a
few meters or less in deep water whereas the wavelength
exceeds several ten kilometers. The tsunami is not
visible on ships in the deep sea. However, the tsunami
shortens its wavelength with almost conserving its wave
energy as it approaches to a shallow water region. As
the result of the decrease of wavelength without energy
loss, the tsunami height can be enlarged. This
transformation process is well-known as the wave
shoaling. Depending on local bathymetry and
topography, the tsunami height may reach 10 m or more.
Mean sea level
Estimated astronomical tide
Tsunami
Tsunami height Tsunami wave height
Time
Water surface
elevation
Tsunami arrival
Fig. 3.7: Definition of tsunami terminologies
Wave height of tsunami, which is defined as the distance
from a wave crest to trough, is also changed depending
on the water depth. It can be roughly estimated by the
following Greens Law which is derived from
conservation of tsunami energy:
4 / 1
1
2
1 2
=
d
d
H H (3.4)
in which d
1
:and d
2
are the water depths in the deep and
shallow water areas, respectively, and H
1
:and H
2
are the
wave heights in the areas with the water depth of d
1
and
d
2
, respectively. Using this equation, for instance, the
tsunami height in shallow water of 10 m deep is 1.8
times that in deep water of 100 m deep.
The tip of a cape is also a dangerous area since the
tsunami height is increased. The tsunami energy is
concentrated there due to wave refraction as shown in
Fig. 3.8. The wave refraction provides the change of
tsunami propagation direction in the same way as lights
refracted by an optical lens. The direction change results
in the reduction of the width between adjacent wave
rays, and then the wave height between the adjacent
wave rays increased to conserve wave energy between
the rays. A similar phenomenon appears around a shoal
under the sea.
Increase of tsunami height
Wave ray of tsunami
Equivalent
depth line
Cape
Reduction of width:
W
2
<W
1
w
1
w
2
Fig. 3.8: Increase of tsunami height around the tip of a cape
The tsunami height is also enlarged in a V-shape water
basin. The tsunami intruding in the V-shape water basin
is reflected from shores of both sides of the basin and is
concentrated in the innermost part of the basin, resulting
in appearance of higher tsunami than the incident
tsunami.
(3) Deformation of tsunami in shallow water
Approaching to the shallow water near coats, the
tsunami may appear as a rapidly rising or falling tide,
breaking bore, or undulate bore (see Fig. 3.9). Shorter
typical wavelength of tsunami and milder slope angle of
beach may provide generation of undulate bore. All of
the water depth, slop angle of beach, and the height and
wavelength of tsunami affected by bathymetry and
topography may help to undergoes deformation of
tsunami. For the horizontal bottom, the crest of undulate
bore may reach to the height 1.5 to 2.0 times the tsunami
height of bore without undulation. Shorter waves on the
undulate bore can also be broken if their wave heights is
over 0.83 times water depth, which is theoretically
derive by Yamada (1957). Figure 3.10 shows the
undulation bore with breaking bore took by the Japan
Ground Self-Defense Force when the tsunami generated
by the 2003 Off Tokachi Earthquake run up the Tokachi
river. Figure 3.11 indicates an experimental result of the
tsunami on a /200 mild slop conducted by Tsuruya and
Nakano (Tanimoro et al., 1983). The generated tsunami
in experimental channel has the wave period of 40 s and
the wave steepness of 0.00019 at Point H. The leading
wave of tsunami leans forward at Point F and E.
Undulation on the tsunami form is produced around
Point D and it develop as the tsunami propagates toward
the shore.
Breaking bore
Undulate bore
Rapidly rising/falling tide-like tsunami
Offshore tsunami
Fig. 3.9: Deformation of tsunami in shallow water
Fig. 3.10: Undulate bore with breaking bore
1
m
1
/
1
0
5m
0
.
5
m
0
.
9
7
5
m
95m
1/200
12.9m
H G S O A B C D E F
0.5
1.5 1.5
3.25 6.25 12.5 15.0
(a) Configuration of experimental channel
40 s
1
0
c
m
H
G
F
E
D
C
B
A
Mesurement
Point
Water Depth = 100.0cm
50.0 cm
22.5 cm
15.0 cm
8.75 cm
5.625 cm
4.00 cm
3.25 cm
(b) Tsunami profiles at measurement points
Fig. 3.11: Tsunami propagating on mild slope
(4) Wave dispersion of tsunami
For the general ocean surface waves we can see on
beaches, the wave with long wave period moves faster
than that of short wave period. This is wave dispersion.
In contrast, the tsunami is a non-dispersive wave, as
shown in Eq. (3.2) in which the propagation speed of
tsunami is independent of the wave period and depends
on the water depth only. However, dependence of wave
period of tsunami propagation speed which is associated
with wave nonlinearity and is very small quantity in
general may provide wave dispersion of tsunami during
the propagation of long distance. The wave-period
dependent quantity in the tsunami propagation speed is
derived in the second-order nonlinear wave theory as
follows:
=
2
2
6
1
1
L
d
gd c
(3.5)
Wave dispersion is also developed in shallow water. The
tsunami approaching to the shallow water area develops
its wave steepness, which produces vertical acceleration
of water particle, associated with high curvature of wave
form. Such acceleration finally develops wave
dispersion.
3.2.5 The Indian Ocean Tsunami striking Sri Lanka
(1) Propagation in deepwater
The Indian Ocean Tsunami traveled over 1,400 km
through the open ocean waters prior to its impact on the
Sri Lankan coastline. The waves themselves move very
fast with speeds of propagation exceeding 800 km/hour
Breaking
Undulate
(222 m/sec) and reaching over 200 km in wavelength.
However their height may be limited to comparatively
small values of the order of 1.0 m in deepwater. The
period of the tsunami witnessed in Sri Lanka was of the
order of 20-30 minutes and the maximum height in the
deep water was around 0.6m to 0.8m.
The wave height at any point of a propagating tsunami is
related to its distance from the origin, the energy content
and area of the initial disturbance, and to energy losses
in transit which are generally small except in the
immediate locality of the disturbance.
(2) Interaction with the continental shelf
On moving towards land the wave first interacts with the
continental shelf during which process the initial
transformation takes place. Depending on the physical
characteristics of this shelf, part of the energy is
reflected and the rest is transmitted towards land. High
reflections reduce the energy transmitted. Sri Lanka has
a very narrow continental shelf with a drop of levels of
the order of 150-200 m to 3,000 m. A reasonable portion
of the incoming wave energy may have been reflected
from the continental shelf. The wave energy that
transmitted over the shelf came directly towards land as
the Sri Lankan continental shelf is insufficiently wide to
contribute towards significant energy dissipation.
Discontinuities in the shelf, as present at the southern tip
of the country, may have contributed to interactions
leading to complex wave patterns. Waves diffracting
around the southern parts of the island were further
transformed by such formations affecting the south-west
quarter of the country and leading to greater impacts
(see Fig. 3.12).
Reflection Continental Shelf
Estimated 60-90% energy reflected back
Fig. 3.12: Reflection and transformation due to the
continental shelf
(3) Nearshore transformations
On reaching shallow water, the speed of the wave
reduces as shown in Eq. (3.2) and Fig. 3.4, but the
energy in the wave remains the same due to minimum
energy loss, thus increasing the wave height very rapidly
and crashing inland with devastating power and
destruction. It is very important to recognize that the
combined action of near-shore processes and local
geomorphologic features influence the degree of the
final impact at a given location.
In this respect the wave height prior to the entry to the
shoreline is further increased by the combined influence
of the nearshore coastal transformation processes of
refraction, diffraction, reflection, and energy
concentration due to reduced crest width within bays.
The nearshore transformation processes are greatly
influenced by the shape of the coastline,
geomorphologic features and bottom bathymetry.
Depending on these features some coastal areas have
greater exposure than others to tsunamis.
From detailed studies of the tsunami wave witnessed
around the island it was clearly evident that nearshore
transformation processes and shoreline geometry
increased the wave heights along many parts of the
southern and western province which would have
normally received only diffracted waves. The impacts of
the combined transformation processes and the shoreline
geometry greatly contributed to the unexpected
devastation at certain locations along the south-west
coast. Of particular interest was the enhanced wave
heights observed at cities located along bays and around
headlands. The inland topography and lack of drainage
facilities worsened the impact. Figure 3.13 illustrates
typical transformation processes around the island.
Fig. 3:13: Coastal processes around Sri Lanka
3.2.6 References
Yamada, H. (1957): On the highest solitary wave, Rep.
Res. Inst. Appl. Mech. Kyushu Univ., 5, 53-67.
Direct and
Refracted Waves
Direct
Waves
Refracted and
Diffracted Waves
Reflected
Waves
Combined
Waves
Direct and
Refracted Waves
3.3. HARBOR RESONANCE
3.3.1. Harbor Resonance
A series of tsunami is not a monochromatic wave which
has a wave component with any wave frequency. It
consists of a lot of wave components with various wave
frequencies. Typical wave frequencies are in the range
of ten minutes to an hour or more, and the wavelengths
of the corresponding wave components are from several
kilometers to several dozen kilometers, depending on
the water depth. Since such wavelengths are comparable
to the scale of ports and harbors, the corresponding
wave components excite resonance in the harbor and
port.
Resonance is the tendency of a system to oscillate at
maximum amplitude at certain frequencies. When
damping is small, the resonance frequency becomes
approximately equal to the natural frequency of the
system, which is the frequency of free oscillations.
Resonant phenomena tend to occur where oscillations or
waves occur.
The agitation inside the basins depends on i) the period
of the waves forcing the agitation, ii) the reflection and
dissipation characteristics of the boundaries and iii) the
geometric properties of the basin. Waves (short period
waves or tsunamis) entering continuously to the basins
such as harbors may in some cases cause abnormal
water surface fluctuations, long period amplifications
and unexpected damages if their period concur with one
of the periods of free oscillations of the basin.
The resonant oscillations inside harbors, bays, or any
other semi-enclosed or closed basins is a problem that
can have direct impact on the management of harbors,
shipping, handling and coastal utilization (Yalciner and
Pelinovsky, 2007).
3.3.2. Examples of Harbor Resonance
Figure 3.14 indicates water surface disturbances by the
Peru tsunami striking on 25 June 2001 measured at the
tide station in Kuji Port, Japan and at the wave gage
installed 7.1 km away from the open mouth of Kuji Port,
in which the water depth is 50 m. Although the
disturbance in the offshore tsunamis small and the wave
height is 0.2 m approximately, the tsunami in the port is
excited and the wave height increases four times the
offshore tsunami. This amplification of tsunami in the
port results from harbor resonance. Each harbor has own
natural frequencies depending on the horizontal scale,
water depth and configuration of harbor. The tsunami
components with the same wave frequency as the
natural frequencies of harbor may be excited when the
tsunami will attack.
Figure 3.15 shows that the results of spectral analysis of
the tsunami profiles in the inside and outside of the port.
Black, red, green, blue, light blue lines in the figure
indicate spectra of the tsunami profile measured during
two hours just after arrival of the tsunami, and after 6,
12, 18 and 24 hours later of the arrival, respectively. In
the offshore area, tsunami energy of the components
whose period is around 30 to 50 minutes is predominant.
In the port, however, high tsunami energy appears
around 20 minutes. If the tsunami would be significantly
amplified if the incident tsunami period is near 20
minutes.
24.5 25.0 25.5 26.0 26.5
-60
-40
-20
0
20
40
60
-60
-40
-20
0
20
40
60
T
i
d
e
G
a
g
e
Day
Kuji unit: cm
O
f
f
s
h
o
r
e
-
W
a
v
e
G
a
g
e
Fig. 3.14: Profiles of the 2001 Peru Tsunami measured in
Kuji Port, Japan and offshore of the port
0.01
0.1
1
10
100
0.001
0.01
0.1
1
10
10
-4
10
-3
4x10
-3
1
10
100
1000
Kuji
S
t
(
m
2
s
)
S
w
(
m
2
s
)
0h
6h
12h
18h
24h
S
t
/
S
w
f (Hz)
5min 10 30 60 90
Inside of the port
Outside of the port
Fig. 3.15: Results of spectral analysis on the wave profiles of
the 2001 Peru Tsunami measured in the inside and outside of
Kuji Port
The resonant tsunami period and amplification factor at
each bay can be evaluated by numerical tsunami
simulations. A short cut numerical method by Yalciner
and Pelinovsky (2007) can also be used to estimate the
resonant period and amplification factor. The periods of
free oscillations (T
n
) inside a closed rectangular flat
bottom basin (when the boundaries are vertical, solid,
smooth and impermeable) can be found by
=
2
1
2 2
2
B
m
L
n
gd
T
n = 0, 1, 2, 3, and m =0, 1, 2, 3, (3.6)
where L is the length and B is the width of the basin, d
is the water depth, and n and m are integer numbers
represent each mode (Raichlen, 1966). For example a
resonant tsunami period for n = 1 and m = 0 with L =
3,000 m and d = 15 m in the above equation is about 8
minutes. It should be noted that the equation should be
modified for a bay opened to ocean.
3.3.3 References
Raichlen, (1966), Harbor Resonance, Interaction of
Structures and Waves, in Coastline and Estuarine
Hydrodynamics, Ippen A.T., Editor, McGraw Hill,
New York, 281-315.
Yalciner A. C., and E. Pelinovsky (2007): A Short Cut
Numerical Method for Determination of Resonance
Periods of Free Oscillations in Irregular Shaped
Basins, Ocean Engineering, 34(5-6), 747-757.
3.4 TSUNAMI RUNUP
3.4.1 Terminology
This section deals with runup especially as the process
of a tsunami on land. Runup height is defined as
elevation between the elevation reach by seawater and
some stated datum such as mean sea level, sea level at
the time of the tsunami attack, etc., and is measured
ideally at a point that is a local maximum of the
horizontal inundation. Where the elevation is not
measured at the maximum of horizontal inundation this
is often referred to as the inundation height. The follow
scientific terms can be define regarding with tsunami
runup (see Fig 3.16).
Fig. 3.16: Tsunami runup and inundation. (Source:
International Tsunami Information Center, the
Intergovernmental Oceanographic Commission of UNESCO;
http://ioc3.unesco.org/itic/contents.php?id=22)
3.4.2 Runup Process
There are deformation processes of tsunami in very-
shallow water areas and on land, as indicated Section
3.2: fast tide-like tsunami, tsunami bore and breaking
tsunami. The tsunamis like a fast tide may be observed
on wharfs and quays in ports and harbors, because of
deep water in front of the wharfs and quays. In contrast,
the tsunami propagating long distance on a mild-sloping
beach may form a tsunami bore. The bore can cause
destruction of structure because the bore of tsunami
usually provides impulsive impact force on the structure.
3.4.3 Analytical Estimation of Tsunami Runup
Height
(1) Runup height
In order to estimate the tsunami runup on straight coast,
is possible to apply the Shutos analysis based on a
Lagrangian treatment, the runup height of long waves on
a uniform slope is represented as follows:
2
1
2
1
2
0
4 4
=
L
l
J
L
l
J
H
R
(3.7)
in which R is the runup height above the still water level,
H and L are the incident wave height and length at the
constant water depth h as shown in Fig. 3.17. The
function J
n
( ) indicates n-th Bessel function.
Fig. 3.17: Tsunami runup
The head of the tsunami landed on a shore may become
bore, and the propagation speed can be estimated
roughly by the following equation.
h g k U = (3.8)
in which k is a parameter concerning the roughness of
the ground surface; k =0.7 is adopted for a very rough
surface and k =2.0 for a very smooth surface.
(2) Flow velocities in the run up zone
To predict the flow velocities and depths for a given
design tsunami at a site of interest, the best practice
available is to run a detailed numerical simulation model
with a very fine grid size in the run up zone. Usually
such a numerical model is running with the nested grid
system: running with a grid size of several kilometers in
the abyssal plain, a few hundreds of meters on the
continental shelf, a few tens of meters near the shore and
a smaller grid size for the run up zone. The numerical
simulation can provide the complete time history of flow
velocity and depth at the site of interest. Drawbacks of
this approach are that 1) such a simulation model is not
readily available to the public and requires significant
resources (time, money, and expertise), and 2) the
results, in particular the flow velocities, may not be as
accurate as expected, depending on the mesh size and
the run up algorithm.
Alternatively, the use of analytical solutions should be
considerer. While some simplifications and assumptions
must impose onto the analytical solutions, the results are
useful as guidelines. The available analytical solutions
are based on the one-dimensional fully nonlinear
shallow-water-wave theory for the condition with a
uniformly sloping beach. With these assumptions, the
exact solution for the run up resulting from an incident
uniform bore was given by Ho and Meyer (1962). The
maximum run up velocity occurs at the leading tip and
was found to be:
l
x u
= 1
lg 2
(3.9)
Where l is the total run up distance (from the initial
shoreline to the maximum run up), is the beach slope,
g is the gravitational acceleration, and x measures
inshore distance from the initial shoreline to the location
of interest. Furthermore, Carrier et al. (2003) recently
developed the exact solution algorithm for non-
breaking tsunamis of the general initial forms. Using
this algorithm, Yeh (2005) plotted the envelope curves
of the maximum momentum flux per unit water mass
hu
2
as shown in Fig. 3.18. In this figure, the numerical
result for uniform-bore runup is also plotted and
presented in color red. The plots in Fig. 3.18 yield the
algebraic representation of the envelop of the maximum
momentum flux per unit water mass hu
2
:
=
l
x
l
x
l g
u h
015 . 0 11 . 0
2
2 2
2
(3.10)
Fig. 3.18: Linear momentum flux per unit mass for 1-D
tsunami run up; Analytical solution for non-breaking tsunami
in black (Carrier et al., 2003) and numerical solution for bore
run up in red.
Hence once the maximum run up distance is determined
(perhaps from the available inundation map) for a given
uniform beach slope, the maximum velocity at a given
location x can be computed by Eq. (3.9) and the
momentum flux hu
2
by Eq. (3.10). The maximum
inundation depth at a site of interest should be evaluate
by the difference between the site elevation and the
water surface elevation at the maximum run up location,
which is the limited condition for a very long wave.
Although a real beach is not uniformly slope not is
tsunami run up one-dimensional motion, Eqs. (3.9) and
(3.10) will provide the analytical basis for the run up
conditions. It must be noted that Fig. 3.18 and Eq. (3.10)
were obtained by evaluating a variety of cases with the
algorithm given by Carrier et al. (2003) plus the
numerical evaluation of bore run up (George, 2004), and
is currently being reviewed for publication (Yeh, 2006).
3.4.4 References
Carrier, G.F., T.T. Wu, and H. Yeh (2003): Tsunami
run-up and draw-down on a plane beach, J. Fluid
Mech., 475, 79-99.
Yeh, H. (2006): Maximum fluid forces in the tsunami
runup zone, J. Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean
Engineering, ASCE, 132(6), 496-500.
3.5 NUMERICAL SIMULATIONS
3.5.1 Outline of Numerical Simulation
(1) Advantage of numerical simulation
Numerical simulations help to understanding tsunami
hazards possible: tsunami height and arrival time along
coasts, inundation area, maximum inundation depth and
others. Therefore, the numerical simulations are
commonly conducted not only for understandings of
hydraulic and hydrodynamic characteristics of tsunami
but for preparation of tsunami hazard maps or
inundation maps in a coastal community. The numerical
simulations can easily provide estimation of tsunami
hazards in future plan of land use.
(2) Accuracy of numerical simulation
To conduct the numerical simulations of tsunami, we
should have bathymetric and topographic data and the
initial form of the tsunami of interest as well as
numerical models. Therefore, accuracy of tsunami
numerical simulation depends on not only accuracy of
numerical models but bathymetric and topographic data.
In validation of historical tsunami damage, the initial
form of the tsunami is also affected in the results.
The tsunami numerical simulation system consisting of
them should be validated to compare with damage
records of historical tsunamis and experimental results.
Confidence of the tsunami source model is usually
evaluated in terms of by the following geometric
average K and geometric standard deviation by Aida
(1978).
=
=
n
i
i
K
n
K
1
1
log
(3.11)
( ) ( )
2 / 1
1
2 2
log log
1
log
=
=
n
i
i
K n K
n
(3.12)
in which n is the number of data for evaluation and K
i
is
the ratio of recorded tsunami height and calculated
tsunami height at the location number of i.
These indexes are used to evaluate the tsunami source
model for a historical tsunami. The following rule of
thumb is generally used to judge trust of the tsunami
source model:
0.95 < K < 1.05 and < 1.45 (3.13)
When a port facility is designed in a port, a fixed wave
form of a designed tsunami in the port is used to
investigate its stability and protecting performance
against the tsunami.
3.5.2 Numerical Models
(1) Various models for tsunami calculation
Various numerical models have been developed, and an
adequate model or a suitable combination of models
should be selected depending on the aim of numerical
simulation.
(2) Model based on shallow water wave theory
Since a tsunami is well approximated by a series of long
wave whose wavelength is 20 times longer than water
depth, numerical models of tsunami based on the
shallow water wave theory (i.e., Goto and Sato, 1993)
are used in practical works to estimate tsunami hazards
at present. In the shallow water wave theory, the
hydrostatic pressure is assumed, and the consequent
equations of the numerical model as follows:
0 =
t y
N
x
M
t
(3.14)
3 / 7
2 2
2
2
2
2
2
2
D
N M M
gn
y
M
x
M
A
x
gD fN
D
MN
y D
M
x t
M
+
= +
(3.15)
3 / 7
2 2
2
2
2
2
2
2
D
N M N
gn
y
N
x
N
A
y
gD fM
D
N
y D
MN
x t
N
+
(3.16)
in which
+ = h D (3.17)
dz v N dz u M
h h
+ +
= =
t y
N
x
M
t
(3.20)
x
h g fN
t
M
= +
) (
(3.21)
y
h g fM
t
N
) (
(3.22)
(4) Model for distant tsunamis
Second-order perturbation of tsunami propagation speed,
which is derived in Eq. (3.2) and is generally negligible
small for local tsunamis, is significant for the distant
tsunami propagating long distance from the tsunami
generation area. Since the small amount depends on
wavelength or wave period, the tsunami causes wave
dispersion in the same way as normal waves in the sea.
In numerical models for the distant tsunami, therefore,
wave dispersion terms are included in the governing
equations. On the other hand, non-linear terms are
usually neglected while the tsunami propagates in the
ocean, because wave height is much smaller then the
water depth.
Another difference from the model for the local tsunami
is the use of the ellipsoid coordinate system depending
on the surface of the earth. Resultant governing
equations for distant tsunamis are as follows:
( )
0
cos
cos
1
=
t
N M
R t
(3.23)
= +
3
3
3
) ( 1
) (
H
h
R
R
h g
fN
t
M
(3.24)
3
3
3
) (
cos
1
cos
) (
H
h
R
R
h g
fM
t
N
(3.25)
in which
=
y t
v
x t
u
R
H
2 2
3
) cos (
cos
1
(3.26)
and and are axes of Earth coordinate system, R the
diameter of the earth.
(5) Model for nonlinear and dispersive tsunami
The nonlinear and dispersive tsunami appearing near
shore, as shown in Fig. 3.11, is well calculated by the
models based on nonlinear Boussinesq-type equations
(Peregrine, 1967; Madsen and Sorensen, 1992; Nwogu,
1993; Liu, 1994; Wei et al., 1995). Various Boussinesq-
type equations are derived by many researchers,
depending on the way of consideration of wave
dispersion. Lynett et al. (2002) have utilized the
following Boussinesq-type equations and developed
runup and rundown scheme additionally:
( ) [ ]
( ) ( ) ( )
( ) ( ) [ ]
+ +
+ +
u
u
u
h z h
z h h h
h
t
2
1
2
1
6
1
2 2 2
(3.27)
( ) [ ] { ( ) [ ]
( ) ( ) [ ] }
{ ( ) ( ) [ ] ( ) ( )
( ) [ ] }
( ) [ ]
( ) [ ]
( ) ( ) [ ]
u u u
u u
u u
u
u u
u u u u
u u
u
u u
u u
u u
u
+
+
+ +
+
+
+ +
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
1
h
h
t
z
z z h z
h z
t
h h h
t
h z
t
z
g
t
(3.28)
in which is the free surface elevation, h the water
depth, u
= (u
, v
=-0.531h, as
recommended by Nwogu (1993), based on optimum
agreement of the governing equations with the linear
dispersion relation.
Using the Boussinesq-type model, Shigihara and Fujima
(2006) have performed numerical simulation of the 2004
Indian Ocean Tsunami and concluded that the dispersion
effect is restricted in the east side of the tsunami source,
for instance, Indonesia, and not negligible in the west
side, for instance, Maldives and Africa., but negligible
in the southwest coast of Sri Lanka.
(6) Fully three-dimensional model for tsunamis
The tsunami interacting with structures may have
vertical acceleration which is negligible for the tsunami
propagating in the oceans. Fujima et al. (2002) have
developed a three-dimensional numerical model for the
tsunamis. Comparing with their experiments on the
tsunami passing an opening section of breakwater, the
three-dimensional model provided good results. In their
numerical model system, especially, the three-
dimensional model is connected the horizontally-two-
dimensional model as indicated in Section 3.5.2 (2) in
order to reduce computational efforts. Yoneyama et al.
(2002) also applied their three-dimensional model to the
experimental result which reproduces the 1993 Okushiri
Tsunami running up the hill surface of the Okushiri
Island in an indoor wave basin, and showed good
agreement of the numerical result with the experimental
result. Liu et al. (2005) have also developed a three-
dimensional model to investigate numerically waves and
runup and rundown generated by a sliding mass into
water. They have employed the volume of fluid (VOF)
method to track accurately the complicated water
surface, i.e., which is induced by the sliding mass into
the water. Tomita et al. (2005) have also developed a
tsunami numerical simulation system consisting of a
fully three-dimensional model and multilayer model
with hydrostatic pressure assumption in each layer, and
validated their model in comparison with experimental
results on the tsunami interacting with the tsunami
breakwater in the Kamaishi port, the tsunami
propagating on a slope in an experimental channel, and
the 2004 Indian Ocean Tsunami striking a Sri Lankan
port
One of the three-dimensional model (Tomita et al.,
2006b) is introduced as an example. The governing
equations are as follows:
( ) ( ) ( ) 0 =
w
z
v
y
u
x
z y x
(3.29)
( ) ( ) ( )
x
w
z
u
z
x
v
y
u
y x
u
x x
p
fv wu
z
vu
y
uu
x t
u
e z
e y e x v
z y x v
2
1
(3.30)
( ) ( ) ( )
=
+
y
w
z
v
z
y
v
y y
u
x
v
x y
p
fu wv
z
vv
y
uv
x t
v
e z
e y e x v
z y x v
2
1
(3.31)
( ) ( ) ( )
z
w
z z
v
y
w
y
z
u
x
w
x
g
z
p
ww
z
vw
y
uw
x t
w
z e y
e x v
z y x v
2
1
(3.32)
in which x, y and z are the Cartesian coordinates, u, v
and w the water particle velocity components in the
directions of x, y and z, the fluid density, p the
pressure, g the gravitational acceleration,
e
the eddy
viscosity, and f the Coriolis parameter. The porosity of
v
and transmissivity of
x
,
y
and
z
in the directions of
x, y and z introduced by Sakakiyama and Kajima (1992)
are imposed to express configuration of sea bottom and
structure shapes smoothly. The eddy viscosity
coefficient is estimated by the following formula in the
same way as Nakatsuji et al. (1992) and Fujima et al.
(2002):
( )
=
i
j
j
i
i
j
j
i
s e
x
u
x
u
x
u
x
u
C
2
(3.33)
in the summation rule. In Eq. 3.31, = (xyz)
1/3
and (x, y, z) the computational grid spaces in x, y,
and z directions, respectively. C
s
is a constant vale and
equal to 0.2. A constant eddy viscosity coefficient is
also available for
e
.
The VOF method, described later, can provide the
computation of the complicated free water surface such
as wave breaking if fine computational grids are adopted
for the calculation: i.e., the grid size is dozen
centimeters in a real scale. However, it may be hard to
apply the VOF model to the calculation of overall
tsunami in a coastal city whose area is more than several
square kilometers, because of huge number of
computational grid are necessary to calculate the
detailed tsunami.
To reduce computational effort, therefore, Fujima et al.
(2002) and Tomita et al. (2005) have adopted the
following vertically-integrated continuity equation for
detection of the free water surface:
0 =
h
y
h
x v
vdz
y
udz
x t
(3.34)
The complicated water surface of tsunami such as wave
breaking may be calculated by the VOF method.
Because the wave breaking is calculated, impulsive
pressure induced the breaking wave is also analyzed
numerically. In this technique, the free water surface is
calculated by the following equation on the function of
fluid volume in each computational cell, F. Such models
exert their effectiveness in a computational grid system
with fine grid size of several tens of centimeters.
0 =
z
F w
y
F v
x
F u
t
F
z
y
x
t
(3.35)
3.5.3 Discretization of Model Equations
The finite difference method is applied in many
numerical models for tsunami calculation. The model
equations as shown in the previous section are usually
discretized in the staggered mesh in space and the
leapfrog scheme in time, as shown in Fig. 3.19.
x
y
(i-1/2, j-1/2) (i+1/2, j-1/2)
(i-1/2, j+1/2) (i+1/2, j+1/2)
M
i-1/2, j
M
i+1/2, j
N
i,j-1/2
N
i,j+1/2
i,j h
i,j
(i, j)
t
k
k+1/2
k+1
k+3/2
k
M
k+1/2
, N
k+1/2
k+1
M
k+3/2
, N
k+3/2
(1) Staggered mesh in space (2) Leapfrog scheme in time
Fig. 3.19: Definition points of variables in discretized model
equation.
3.5.4 Application of Numerical Model to Actual
Tsunami
(1) Outline of numerical simulation
As an example, the numerical simulation of the 2004
Indian Ocean Tsunami striking Galle city in the southern
part of Sri Lanka (Tomita and Honda, 2007) is indicated
in this section. In the simulation are employed both the
model with the hydrostatic pressure assumption (STOC-
ML) only and the combination model of STOC-ML and
fully three-dimensional model (STOC-IC)
(2) Computational grid system
An eight-stage nested grid system is constructed for the
computation, as shown in Fig. 3.20 and Table 3.2. The
first grid of 3,645 m in horizontal scale is set in the
Indian Ocean from the Sumatra Island to Maldives
islands. The size of second grid is one-third of the first
grid size. The following connection of adjacent grids is
in the same way as this. The finest eighth grid is 2.5 m
in scale and is developed in the coastal sea and land in
the city whose scale is 1,250 m x 1,250 m, in order to
calculate the tsunami interacted with coastal structures
and rigid architectures.
#1
#2 #3
#4
#5
#6
#7
#8
#7
Fig. 3.20: Layout of nested grid system.
Table 3.2: Nested grid system
2.5
5.0
15.0
45.0
135.0
405.0
1215.0
3645.0
Grid size
[m]
1 500 500 Area_08
Area_07
Area_06
Area_05
Area_04
Area_03
Area_02
Area_01
Grid number
1 480 600
1 345 345
1 207 225
1 294 591
1 417 615
1 576 414
1 846 854
z y x
Grid point number
2.5
5.0
15.0
45.0
135.0
405.0
1215.0
3645.0
Grid size
[m]
1 500 500 Area_08
Area_07
Area_06
Area_05
Area_04
Area_03
Area_02
Area_01
Grid number
1 480 600
1 345 345
1 207 225
1 294 591
1 417 615
1 576 414
1 846 854
z y x
Grid point number
(3) Bathymetry, Topography and Structures
Bathymetric data for calculation is made from the
GEBCO 1.0-minute grid data and nautical charts of
1/312,000 to 1/10,000. Topographic data and horizontal
shape data of structures in Galle city are constructed
from 1/10,000 topographical digital map provided by the
Survey Department of Sri Lanka. In the computation,
structures including houses and buildings are considered
as obstacles which interrupt tsunami propagation. The
height of structures is constant of 5 m in the
computation, although actual structures are various in
high.
(4) Tsunami Source
Fault model which produces the initial profile of the
tsunami is developed through the comparison with the
tsunami profile observed by a satellite JASON-1 and the
tsunami trace heights along Sri Lankan coasts (Tomita
and Honda, 2007). The resultant fault model is shown as
in Table 3.3 and Fig. 3.21. It should be noted that this
fault model is modified from the original model by Oie
et al. (2006) to explain the tsunami in Sri Lanka, in
which the fault is divided into six segments.
Table 3.3: Fault model to express the 2004 Indian Ocean
Tsunami in Sri Lanka.
150.0 125.0 90.0 15.0 329.0 4.480 93.320 10.0 2
150.0 250.0 90.0 15.0 329.0 2.552 94.476 10.0 1
150.0 55.0 90.0 15.0 358.0 6.602 92.023 10.0 4
150.0 125.0 90.0 15.0 329.0 5.450 92.740 10.0 3
150.0 145.0 90.0 15.0 358.0 7.097 92.006 10.0 5
90.0
Slip
Angle
[degree]
91.960
E [degree]
Position of Fault
200.0
Fault
Length
[km]
N [degree]
10.0
Depth
[km]
6
Segment
358.0
Strike
Angle
[degree]
8.400 15.0
Dip
Angle
[degree]
150.0
Fault
Width
[km]
150.0 125.0 90.0 15.0 329.0 4.480 93.320 10.0 2
150.0 250.0 90.0 15.0 329.0 2.552 94.476 10.0 1
150.0 55.0 90.0 15.0 358.0 6.602 92.023 10.0 4
150.0 125.0 90.0 15.0 329.0 5.450 92.740 10.0 3
150.0 145.0 90.0 15.0 358.0 7.097 92.006 10.0 5
90.0
Slip
Angle
[degree]
91.960
E [degree]
Position of Fault
200.0
Fault
Length
[km]
N [degree]
10.0
Depth
[km]
6
Segment
358.0
Strike
Angle
[degree]
8.400 15.0
Dip
Angle
[degree]
150.0
Fault
Width
[km]
Uplif t area
Subsi dence
area
Fig. 3.21: Initial tsunami profile.
(5) Comparison with the profile of the tsunami
propagating in the Indian Ocean and the tsunami
striking Sri Lankan coasts
The satellite of JASON-1 observed the tsunami
propagating in the Indian Ocean along a line from 10 S
and 82 E to 15 N and 91 E during 10 minutes.
Calculation results are compared with the observed
tsunami. The dot-line in Fig 3.22 shows the observed
tsunami profile. It should be noted that all of the profile
data are observed not instantaneously but consecutively
by the satellite moving. The thin and thick lines are
computation results based on the fault model by Oie et
al. (2006) and the modified fault models shown in Table
3.4.3, respectively. The modified tsunami source can
provide clearly the two peaks in the south latitude
observed by the satellite, although gaps remain
particularly around 10 N. Further improvement to
diminish the gaps should be achieved by introduction of
rapture process of the fault from south to north. Indeed,
Fujima (2007) showed that tsunami fault model
considering rupture process of crust provided better
computation result comparing with the observation
results by JASON-1.
1.5
1.0
0.5
0
-0.5
-1.0
W
a
t
e
r
L
e
v
e
l
[
m
]
15 10 5 0 -5
Latitude [deg.]
J ason-1
Fault Model - 1
Fault Model - 2
J ASON-1
Fault model by Oie et al. (2006)
Proposed fault model
Fig. 3.22: Tsunami profiles observed by JASON-1 and
computed with fault models.
Figure 3.23 shows that tsunami trace heights measured
in the field surveys (Tomita et al., 2006a, Shibayama et
al., 2005, Liu, 2005) and calculated tsunami heights
along the coasts. The computational result is good
agreement with field survey results on the whole. From
the field survey in Galle city (Tomita al., 2006a),
inundation height was 5.4 m in the innermost of the
Galle port and the tsunami exceeded a coastal cliff of
4.0 m in high. At these points the calculated maximum
tsunami heights are 5.0 m and 4.1 m, respectively. The
comparison indicates that the computational tsunami is
approximately 0.4 m less than the tsunami striking
actually. For calculation of inundation in Galle City due
to the tsunami, therefore, mean water level is raised 0.4
m.
Fig. 3.23: Measured tsunami trace heights and calculated tsunami
heights along Sri Lankan coast.
Tsunami arrival time in calculation results with the
original fault model and modified fault model is
compared to the observation results in Colombo Port
and Colombo fishing harbor. The arrival time based on
each fault model is almost same as the observed one. It
is 160 minutes after the earthquake occurrence.
(6) Calculated Inundation in Galle City
Figures 3.24 and 3.25 indicate the maximum inundation
depth calculated by the model with the hydrostatic
pressure assumption (STOC-ML) only. In Fig. 3.24,
there are no structures as obstacles but existence of
structures is replaced by bottom roughness using
Manning roughness coefficients, n. The coefficients are
the same values as the conventional tsunami simulation:
i.e., n=0.08 m
-1/3
s in high density area of house. In Fig.
3.25, houses and other structures are considered as the
obstacles to reflect and diffract the tsunami.
Comparing between Figs. 3.24 and 3.25, the houses as
obstacles reduce the inundation area and depth. The area
especially in the right hand side of Fig. 3.24 is widely
inundated in comparing to Fig. 3.25. Tomita and Honda
(2007) shows that the numerical result with tsunami
reduction due to houses is better agreement with actual
record of inundation area (Investigation Delegation of
the Japanese Government, 2005). Consideration of
structures including houses as obstacles are more
significant to estimate tsunami damages as well as
inundation in a coastal city.
Applying the three-dimensional model (STOC-IC) in the
eighth grid in Fig.3.20, the result by STOC-IC is almost
same as that of STOC-ML. In this simulation case the
three-dimensional effects are not significant in
estimation of inundated areas and the maximum
inundation depth, although they appear during
inundation process, especially in fluid velocity.
Fig. 3.24: Calculated inundation by STOC-ML without houses
as obstacles
Fig. 3.25: Calculated inundation by STOC-ML with houses as
obstacles
3.5.5 Application of Numerical Model to
Experimental Result
Tanimoto et al. (1988) investigated experimentally the
reduction of the tsunami passing a model of the tsunami
breakwater in the Kamaishi port which had a submerged
breakwater in its opening section for navigation. In the
experimental basin as shown in Fig. 3.26 is applied the
three-dimensional model of STOC-IC to reproduce the
tsunami reduction numerically (Tomita and Honda,
2008). In the computation, the horizontal grid size is
0.040 to 0.044 m in the opening area surrounded by
dotted line in Fig. 3.26, and 0.12 m in other area.
Vertical grid size is 0.12 m in the levels of z=-1.20 to -
0.60 m and 0.12 to 0.24 m, and 0.04 m in the level of
z=-0.60 to 0.12 m. The tsunami is generated as a
uniform flow in the same way as the experiments. The
flow velocity is 1.0 m/s which is the averaged value at
the center of the opening section of breakwater. In
experiments it is 0.98 m/s or 1.05 m/s.
Figure 3.27 shows spatial variations of the tsunami
around the opening section of breakwater by the
experiments and numerical simulation. The result by the
three-dimensional model of (STOC-IC) provides a good
result in comparison with the experimental results from
the outside to inside of port. On the other hand, the
result by the model with the hydrostatic pressure
assumption (STOC-ML) has some discrepancy from the
experimental results. In the computation by the model
with the hydrostatic pressure assumption, the
momentum loss induced by the tsunami passing an
opening section of breakwater is usually considered in
terms of the product of the coefficient of momentum
loss and squared velocity, although no momentum loss
is considered in the result of STOC-ML. Goto and Sato
(1993) recommenced the coefficient of 0.5 through the
comparison with the experimental results of the tsunami
breakwater in the Kamaishi port, although they pointed
out that it depended on configuration of breakwater. If
the coefficient is considered in the simulation of STOC-
ML, the tsunami level in the outside of port rises from
the level indicated in Fig. 3.27 and that of the inside of
port subsides. Suitable value of the coefficient can be
found finally. However, since it depends on the
configuration of breakwater, an experiment is basically
necessary to determine it for other ports.
The three-dimensional model also has a coefficient of C
s
to estimate momentum loss as shown in Eq. (3.33).
However, the tsunami simulation results may not be
sensitive to the change of the coefficient, because
calculations in the range of C
s
=0.13 to 0.25 provide
almost the same profile of water surface around the
breakwater. Therefore the three-dimensional model may
estimate the protection effects of breakwater and other
structures against tsunami intrusion.
Fig. 3.26: Setup of experiment
Fig. 3.27: Tsunami profile around the opening section of
breakwater
3.5.6 References
Aida, I. (1978): Reliability of a tsunami source model
derived from fault parameters, J. Physics Earth, 26,
57 - 73.
Fujima, K., K. Masamura, C. Goto (2002): Development
of the 2d/3d hybrid model for tsunami numerical
simulation. Coastal Eng. J., 44(4), 373 - 397.
Fujima, K. Y. Shigihara, K. Honda and H. Yanagisawa
(2007): Some detailed numerical simulations of
2004 Indian Ocean Tsunami, Proc. Fourth Int.
Workshop Coastal Disaster Prevention, 56-64.
Goto, C. and K. Sato (1993): Development of tsunami
numerical simulation system for Sanriku coast in Japan,
Report of Port and Harbor Res. Inst., 32(2), 3 - 44 (in
Japanese).
Iwasaki, T. and A. Mano (1979): Two-dimensional
numerical computation of tsunami run-ups in the
Eulerian description, Proc. 26th Conf. Coastal Eng.,
JSCE, 7074 (in Japanese).
Kotani, M., F. Imamura, and N. Shuto (1998): Tsunami
run-up simulation and damage estimation by using GIS,
Proc. Coastal Eng., JSCE, 45, 356360 (in Japanese).
Liu, L.F.P., 2005. Field survey and numerical simulation
of maximum tsunami elevations at different sites in
Sri Lanka.
http://ceeserver.cee.cornell.edu/pll%2Dgroup/tsuna
mis_data.htm
Liu, P.L.-F. (1994): Model equations for wave
propagation from deep to shallow water:: Advanced
in Coastal Eng.(Ed. Liu, P.L.-F.), 1, 125-157.
Lynett, P.J., T.-R. Wu, P.L.-F. Liu (2002): Modeling
wave runup with depth-integrated equations, Coastal
Eng., 46(2), 89-107.
Madsen, P.A. and O.R. Sorensen (1992): A new firm of
the Boussinesq equations with improved linear
dispersion characteristics, Part 2 A slowly varying
bathymetry, Coastal Eng., 18, 183-204.
Nakatsuji, K., S. Karino, H. Kurita (1992): Finite
element analysis of tidal flow in the Osaka Bay with
subgrid scale eddy coefficient, Proc. Hydraulic Eng.,
JSCE, 36, 693-696 (in Japanese).
Nwogu, O. (1993): Alternative form of Boussinesq
equations for nearchore wave propagation, J.
Waterway Port Coast and Ocean Eng., 119(6), 618-
638.
Oie, T., S. Koshimura, H. Yanagisawa, F. Imamura
(2006): Numerical modeling of the 2004 Indian
Ocean Tsunami and damage assessment in Banda
Aceh, Indonesia, Annual J. of Coastal Eng., JSCE,
53, 221-225 (in Japanese).
Peregrine, D.H. (1967): long waves on a beach, J. Fluid
Mech., 27, 815-827.
Sakakiyama, T. and R. Kajima (1992): Numerical
simulation of nonlinear wave interacting with
permeable breakwaters, Proc. 23rd Int. Conf.
Coastal Eng., ASCE, 1517-1530.
Shibayama, T., A. Okayasu, J. Sasaki, N. Wijayaratna, T.
Suzuki, R. Jayaratna, Masimin, Z. Ariff and R.
Matsumaru (2005): Disaster survey of Indian Ocean
Tsunami and its application to disaster prevention
works, Proc. the Special Asia Tsunami Session at
APAC 2005, 33-36.
Shigihara, Y. and K. Fujima (2006): Wave dispersion
effect in the Indian Ocean Tsunami, J. Disaster Res.,
1(1), 142-147.
Tanimoto, K., T. Takayama, K. Murakami, S. Murata, H.
Tsuruya, S. Takahashi, M. Morikawa, Y. Yoshimoto,
S. Nakano and T. Hiraishi (1983): Field and
Laboratory investigations of the tsunami caused by
1983 Nihonkai Chubu Earthquake, Tech. Note
PHRI, 470, 299pp.
Tomita, T., T. Arikawa, T. Yasuda, F. Imamura and Y.
Kawata (2006a): Damage caused by the 2004 Indian
Ocean Tsunami on the southwestern coast of Sri
Lanka, Coastal Eng. J., 48(2): 99-116.
Tomita, T. and K. Honda (2007): Tsunami estimation
including effect of coastal structures and buildings
by 3d model, Proc. Coastal Structures, Venice, in
printing.
Tomita, T., K. Honda, T. Kakinuma (2006b):
Application of three-dimensional tsunami simulator
to estimation of tsunami behavior around structures.
Proc. 30th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng., ASCE, 1677-
1688.
Tomita, T. and K. Honda (2008): Application of three-
dimensional non-hydrostatic numerical model to
tsunamis in coastal areas, Annual J. Coastal Eng., 55,
JSCE, in print.
Wei.,G., J.T. Kirby, S.T. Grilli and R. Subramanya
(1995): A fully nonlinear Boussinesq model for
surface waves: Part 1 Highly nonlinear unsteady
waves, J. Fluid Mech., 294, 71-92.
4. TSUNAMI INTRUSION IN PORTS
AND INTERACTION BETWEEN
TSUNAMI AND VESSELS
______________________________________________________
4.1 TSUNAMI IN PORT AREAS
4.1.1 Tsunami Intrusion in Ports
Tsunamis propagating near shore are subject to wave
transformation, such as wave shoaling, refraction,
diffraction and reflection, as shown in Section 3.2, and
may be deformed into a bore with and without
undulation and/or a breaking tsunami, depending on
submarine topography. However, tsunamis striking
ports are, in general, neither bore-like tsunami nor
breaking tsunami because the water depth of ports in
the entrances of ports is deep. Nonetheless tsunamis
can assume complicated features associated with the
geography configured by breakwaters, quays and
other port facilities.
For a port protected by offshore breakwaters, a
tsunami wave usually does not overtop the breakwater,
because the tsunami is not like a bore and water
elevation due to the tsunami is usually lower than the
crest height of breakwater. This causes the tsunami to
intrude into a port through openings in the
breakwaters. Thus, the water elevation within the port
is relatively slow and people may have time to escape
to nearby buildings.
However, if the tsunami is very large and overtops the
breakwaters, a huge mass of water will suddenly
intrude into the port, resulting in sudden inundation of
land areas in the port with little time for evacuation.
4.1.2 Tsunami Around Breakwaters
A tsunami that passes through the open sections of the
breakwaters in both flooding and receding phases
increases its flow velocity. Such a high-speed tsunami
can damage the open sections of breakwaters, causing
erosion of breakwater mounds and scattering of
breakwater heads, as shown in Section 5.1. Moreover,
the high speed flows create eddies around the opening
section of breakwaters, as shown in Fig. 4.1. The high
speed flow by the tsunami around breakwaters
precludes the maneuvering of vessels.
Fig. 4.1: Eddy in Kushiro port formed by the 2003 Off
Tokachi Earthquake Tsunami (Photo courtesy of Japan
Coast Guard)
4.1.3 Tsunami in Water Area of a Port
Figure 4.2 shows the measured tsunami height at
Beruwala fishery port in Sri Lanka when it was struck
by the 2004 Indian Ocean Tsunami. The tsunami
height in the port was 2.35 m above sea level at the
time of tsunami, which is less than half that outside of
the port. Since the open section of the breakwater is
90 m in width, the amount of water intruding into the
port by the tsunami was limited, minimizing tsunami
damage in the port.
2.35m
4.82m
Fig. 4.2: Tsunami heights in and around Beruwala fishery
port due to the 2004 Indian Ocean Tsunami (Tomita and
Honda, 2008)
Figures 4.3 and 4.4 illustrate the complicated
interactions between a tsunami and a harbor by means
of numerical simulation results. The incident tsunami
height around the breakwater is approximately 3 m
and the wave period is around 30 minutes in this case.
The characteristics of tsunami behavior are as follows:
1) The tsunami height in the port is not reduced by
the breakwater as the cross-section area of the
open section of the breakwater is not small
enough in this case.
2) Although the tsunami height in the port varies
relatively smoothly, the effect of reflection can be
observed in the figure. High tsunamis may appear
at a closed-off section surrounding quays and
other structures.
3) A tsunami intruding into the port causes high
speed water particle velocity locally (more than 5
m/s), not only around the opening section of the
breakwater but in some areas such as a curved
part or locally-shallow part as shown in Fig 4.4.
4) A tsunami intruding the port also causes very
complicated flow fields including circulating
currents in and out the port as in Fig 4.4(b).
Maximum tsunami height (m)
Fig. 4.3: Tsunami maximum height
The behavior of a tsunami in the port depends not
only on the width of the breakwater opening sections
but also the space of the water area in the port. If the
water area is small, the water level in the port may be
quickly raised by the intrusion of the tsunami. On the
other hand, if the port has a wide water area, the water
elevation will be reduced, resulting in limited
inundation. It should be also noted that the resonance
effect is very important as mentioned in 3.3.
Complicated tsunami behavior can be simulated by
ordinary numerical tsunami simulations.
Maximum velocity (m/s) Maximum velocity (m/s)
Fig. 4.4(a): Tsunami-induced maximum flow
Fig. 4.4(b): Tsunami-induced flow at 23minutes after
arrival
4.1.4 Tsunami on Land Area of a Port
If the water level induced by a tsunami is higher than
the height of the ground level of a port, seawater will
intrude into the land areas of the port. Since the land
area of a port is often low and flat to facilitate
cargo-handling, there is a high risk of flooding of wide
areas in a short period after the start of inundation.
Figure 4.5 shows the flooded Otsu fishery port after
the 2003 Off Tokachi Earthquake Tsunami (Tomita et
al., 2003). The height of the tsunami striking the port
was 2.4 m, and the land area was consequently
inundated. Since the tsunami height was not very large,
the tsunami running up the land had a less destructive
wave force, as can be seen from the picture, but did
carry away fishing vessels. Tsunamis flooding the flat
port areas can be considered as flows rather than
waves, because the incident tsunami is neither a
bore-like tsunami nor a broken tsunami.
Fig 4.5: Inundated land area of the Otsu fishery port due to
the 2003 Off Tokachi Earthquake Tsunami (Photo courtesy
of Tokachi Port and Harbor Office, Hokkaido Bureau,
Ministry of Land, Infrastructure, Transport and Tourism,
Japan)
Fig. 4.6: Containers drifting after a tsunami (Photo
courtesy of Hiroo Coast Guard Station, Japan Coast
Guard)
Tsunamis on land may cause not only vessels but also
containers, cars and tanks to float and drift. Some of
them can hit port facilities and other structures, and
some will be pulled into the sea by the retreating
tsunami, as shown in Fig. 4.6 which shows drifting
containers after the 2003 Off Tokachi Earthquake
Tsunami (Tomita et al., 2003). Some vessels are lifted
onto the land by the flooding tsunami. In fact, small
boats, fishing boats, dredgers, and a power plant barge
drifted into many ports and harbors due to the 2004
Indian Ocean Tsunami. Oil tanks can also float and be
washed away by a tsunami flow on land.
It should also be noted that a tsunami propagates
through low places such as rivers and channels. When
the tsunami is receding, it also moves toward low land
places. A tsunami current near ports is usually violent
because the slope of the land is steep. The strong
current can drag floating debris including cars into the
water area of the port.
4.1.5 References
Tomita, T., K. Honda (2008): Tsunami dynamic
hazard map to enhance tsunami damage imaging,
Annual. J . Civil Eng. Ocean, 24, 165-170 (in
J apanese).
Tomita, T., H. Kawai, and T. Kakinuma (2004):
Tsunami disasters and tsunami characteristics due
to the Tokachi-oki Earthquake in 2003, Tech. Note
Port and Airport Res. Inst., 1082, in J apanese.
4.2 EFFECTS OF TSUNAMIS ON
MOORED/MANEUVERING SHIPS
4.2.1 Introduction
This section addresses impacts to port facilities being
of significant interest to a number of public and
private port entities. This section starts with an
overview of port impacts, follows with methods for
quantifying port impacts and ends with a summary
and conclusions. It should be noted that while this
section deals principally with large vessels, the same
lessons and approaches are applicable to smaller craft.
4.2.2 Impacts of the Indian Ocean on Port
Facilities
This section addresses the impacts of the Indian
Ocean Tsunami on several ports within Sri Lanka and
India. Other ports were also impacted by the tsunami
especially in Indonesia. Nevertheless, lessons
illuminated by the Sri Lankan and Indian examples
serve to illustrate the principle issues relevant to
tsunamis impacts on ports.
Sri Lankan Ports
The port of Colombo, shown in Fig. 4.7, consists of 2
modern container terminals and a cargo terminal.
The facility is located on the west coast of Sri Lanka.
The port had a container throughput of 2 million
twenty foot equivalent units (teu) in 2004. The water
area of the port is 200 hectares, the land area, 130
hectares. Recorded water levels at the port indicate
that the tsunami height was on the order of 2.6 m
(about 1.9 m above still water). The port sustained
minimal damage during the tsunami. The damages
were limited to minor flooding and the port was back
in operation a few days after the event. The one
mishap of consequence was that a ship maneuvering
through the entrance during the storm lost control
owing to the unusual and excessive flow velocities.
After the crew abandoned ship, this vessel ran
aground on the seaward side of the south breakwater
and had to be salvaged.
The relatively small Port of Galle is located on the
southern coast of Sri Lanka, see Fig. 4.8. The
estimated tsunami height at this port was 5.3 m above
normal mean tide. Damage experienced at the port
consisted of: (1) capsizing of a vessel, (2) placement
of a dredge on top of a wharf (see Fig. 4.9), (3)
building damage, (4) limited breakwater damage, and
(5) deposition of 2 m of sediment in the harbor basin.
Trincomalee port facilities were not substantively
damaged by the tsunami.
Indian Ports
The port of Chennai is located on the east coast of
India and is comprised of inner, older, harbor basin
and an outer, newer, harbor basin as shown in Fig.
4.10. This important harbor shipped 1.5 million teus
in 2004. Multipurpose and bulk berths are located in
the inner harbor, container and liquid bulk berths, in
the outer harbor. The tsunami height at this harbor
has been estimated at 2.8 m. Figure 4.11 shows
tsunami waters draining from container stacks in the
outer harbor over the wharf face; interestingly none of
the containers appear to have been dislodged by the
event. The principle impact of the tsunami was to
part vessel moorings (3 vessels parted all lines and
were left to drift within the harbor).
Tsunami-induced currents moved these vessels around
the harbor causing the same to collide with other
vessels, piers, and cargo handling equipment, See Fig.
4.12 through 15. Fortunately, a tanker was not
seriously damaged which could have led to an oil spill.
Additionally, strong currents scoured and undermined
some of the breakwater structures.
Port Blair is located in the Andaman Islands and is
one of the few ports damaged both by tsunami waters
as well as direct earthquake, ground shaking. The
tsunami wave height was about 3 m. Tsunami water
damage is typified in Figs. 16 and 17.
4.2.3 Tsunami Port Damages
Overall, principal port damages can be summarized
as: (1) damages resulting from parting of vessel
moorings, (2) damages resulting from out-of-control
movements of maneuvering or unmoored vessels
transported by tsunami-induced currents, (3) damages
when vessels are lifted out of the water onto piers,
quays or port fastland, and (4) damages owing to
tsunami-induced sediment scour or deposition. An
approach quantifying the impacts of tsunamis on
moored and maneuvering vessels is described below.
Fig. 4.7: Port of Colombo, Sri Lanka
Fig. 4.8: Galle Harbor, Sri Lanka
Fig. 4.9: Dredge grounded on top of wharf, Galle Harbor,
Sri Lanka
Fig. 4.10: Port of Chennai, India
Fig. 4.11: Exiting tsunami waters, Port of Chennai, India
Fig. 4.12: Unmoored container vessel, Outer Harbor, Port
of Chennai, India
Fig. 4.13: Unmoored tanker transported by tsunami
currents in outer harbor, Port of Chennai, India
Fig. 4.14: Unmoored bulk ship, Inner Harbor, Port of
Chennai, India
Fig. 4.15: Collision of three vessels, Port of Chennai, India
Fig. 4.16: Vessel deposited on pier by tsunami, Port Blair,
India
Fig. 4.17: Damaged drydock, Port Blair, India
4.2.3 Basic Experiments on Mooring of Ships
The damages to large ships due to tsunami can be
significant as mentioned in Chapter 4.2.2. However
the mooring forces calculated using ordinary ship
motion simulation programs are not large. Ohgaki et
al.(2009) conducted a series of model experiments to
clarify the motions of the moored ships and the
response of mooring facilities caused by tsunami. The
experimental results are introduced below to explain
the fundamental characteristics of tsunami forces on
ships and mooring of ships.
Experimental Procedures
The model experiments were conducted at the Port
and Airport Research Institute (PARI) by using a wave
basin and ship model. The tensions of the mooring
ropes and the reaction forces of the fenders were
obtained. Also, the six component motions of a
moored ship were obtained by three-dimensional
imaging analysis.
The model scale is 1/50. In the model experiments, the
output power of the pumps at the both ends of the
basin was controlled to simulate the tsunami by the
reciprocating flow. Table 4.1 and Fig.4.18 show the
model ship dimensions and a photograph of the
moored ship. The ship is 50,000DWT container ship.
The displaced weight and the draft of the ship were set
under the full load condition.
The mooring pier is a pile type structure, which does
not disturb the tsunami flow. The mooring ropes are
the nylon eight ropes with a diameter of 100 mm in
the field. The tension characteristics of the model
ropes were scaled down to the cube root of 1/50 to
satisfy the Froude similitude law. Table 4.2 shows the
experiment condition. The incident angles of tsunami
flows were set 0, 30, 60 and 90 degrees. Tsunami
flows are sinusoidal currents with three kinds of
tsunami periods and the maximum velocities.
Fig.4.19 shows the arrangement of eight mooring
ropes, four fenders and six mooring posts to moor the
ship. The tensions of the mooring ropes (B-1, B-2, B-3,
B-4, B-5 and B-6) were measured at the same
intervals by the load cells. The rating capacity of B-2
and B-5 is 50N (6250kN), that of B-1 and B-6 is 10N
(1250kN) and that of B-3 and B-4 is 20N (2500kN).
The tensions of B-2 and B-5 indicate the total tension
of two breast lines, respectively. The reaction forces of
four fenders (FD-1, FD-2, FD-3 and FD-4) were also
measured by the load cells. The rating capacity of
them is 50N (6250kN).
Experimental Results
Fig.4.20 shows the maximum values of the motions of
the moored ship, the tensions of mooring ropes and
the total reaction forces of four fenders against the
tsunami incident angles under the condition of that the
tsunami velocity is 255mm/s (1.80m/s) with the full
load condition. The response characteristics of the
moored ship are changed greatly by the tsunami
incident angle because the drag and inertia
coefficients are changed. Surging is large when the
incident angle are 0 and 30 degrees. Conversely,
swaying becomes large with an increase of the
incident angle. The tensions of B-1 are relatively
small compared to the tensions of B-2. The tension of
B-2 becomes especially large with an increase of the
incident angle. The total reaction force of fenders
becomes large with an increase of the incident angle.
The experimental results well agree with calculations
using estimated drag and inertia coefficients. The drag
coefficient varies significantly (approximately from
zero to 3 with the change of the incident angle . The
mooring force becomes large with an increase of
incident angle because the drag coefficient and the
projected area against the tsunami flow become large.
It should be emphasized that when the incident angle
is zero the mooring force is not large since drag force
is small. When the incident angle is zero the inertia
force is predominant although the value is not large
since the acceleration is not large due to very long
period of tsunami compared with those of storm
waves.
-200
-100
0
100
200
0 30 60 90
S
u
r
g
e
(
m
m
)
T=85s
T=170s
T=254s
IncidentAngle
-400
-300
-200
-100
0
100
200
0 30 60 90
S
w
a
y
(
m
m
)
T=85s
T=170s
T=254s
IncidentAngle
0
2
4
6
8
0 30 60 90
T
e
n
s
i
o
n
o
f
B
1
(
N
)
T=85s
T=170s
T=254s
IncidentAngle
0
20
40
60
80
0 30 60 90
T
e
n
s
i
o
n
o
f
B
2
(
N
)
T=85s
T=170s
T=254s
IncidentAngle
0
50
100
150
200
0 30 60 90
T
o
t
a
l
R
e
a
c
t
i
o
n
F
o
r
c
e
o
f
F
D
1
F
D
4
(
N
)
T=85s
T=170s
T=254s
IncidentAngle
Fig.4.20 Ship Motion, Rope Tensions and Fender
Reaction Forces
Table 4.1.. Ship Dimensions
Fig. 4.18. Arrangement of Model in Basin
Table 4.2 Experiment Condition
Fig.4.19. Arrangement of the Moored Ship and the
Mooring Facilities
Unit Prototype Value Model Value
Load Condition Full Full
Displaced Weight DWT 48,000 0.384
Length m 216.5 4.33
Width m 31.5 0.63
Draft m 11.0 0.22
Natural
Period
Surging s 133 18.8
Swaying s 62 8.8
Water Depth m 15.0 0.3
Setup Condition
Incident Angle 0, 30, 60, 90
Period
85, 170, 254s
(10, 20, 30min
Maximum Velocity
99, 152, 255mm/s
(0.70, 1.07, 1.80m/s)
Wall
Wall
Ship
Pier
Reciprocating Flow
Basin
Fundamental Characteristics of Ship Mooring
The following facts can be derived from the
experiments to understand the ship mooring against
tsunami:
1) Even though the speed of tsunami current is large
the drag force is not significant if the direction of
the current is parallel to the ship (0 degree). This
is the case for properly moored ships at ordinary
quay walls.
2) The inertia force due to tsunami is usually larger
than the drag force when the incident angle is zero.
Since the acceleration of the tsunami current is not
significant the mooring force is not large at the
angle of zero degree.
3) If the ship is moored using dolphins for example,
the tsunami current is usually not zero. Then the
drag coefficient becomes very large and the
projected area becomes large. Therefore the drag
force becomes large resulting breakage of the
mooring system.
4) It is suggested that the ship maneuvering is not so
difficult for large ships with large propulsion
power if the direction of the ship is parallel to the
tsunami direction. The ship maneuvering becomes
difficult around the breakwater mouth areas due to
intensified tsunami current speed and abrupt
change of current direction there as mentioned in
chapter 4.1.
4.2.4 Calculation of Tsunami Forces and vessel
stability
Moored vessels are subject to three physical
phenomena during a tsunami: (1) vertical lifting of the
vessel due to rise in water level (VWL), (2) horizontal
forces due to accelerated currents (HAC) which can
be quasi-static or dynamic, and (3) dynamic horizontal
forces from leading tsunami waves (HLW). The
authors have found it possible to approximate tsunami
loads on moored ships using state of practice
numerical models as described below for the VWL
and HAC cases. While HLW loads can be
approximated by the HAC approach, more research is
necessary to fully develop the HLW case.
VWL Approach
A number of static mooring analysis models are
available to evaluate the increase in mooring line
loads associated with large increases in water level
(see Headland et al 2006.) The model used here was
developed by the lead author and was published in the
U.S. Navys design manual DM 26.4- Fixed Moorings
(1985). The software incorporates the vessel
mooring geometry, nonlinear mooring line
characteristics, and can be used to evaluate an increase
in water level. This is a typical problem for vessels
moored by means of synthetic and wire lines in large
tidal ranges. It is typically necessary to tend or
adjust mooring lines while the water level rises and
falls in order to prevent breakage. A typical mooring
line pre-tension of 15-20% of the line breaking
strength is applied in order to prevent slack lines
(which result in large vessel movements) at the lowest
water level under normal conditions. These same
lines must, however, be loosened at high tide in order
to prevent the lines from parting. For the case of a
tsunami, the water level can rise 3-5m in several
minutes eliminating the possibility for line tending
with the concomitant risk of line parting. An example
analysis is presented below for a typical
Post-Panamax container ship; the ship is moored by
means of synthetic/wire lines, see Fig. 4.21. The
ship has a length, beam and draft of 305m, 43m, and
12m, respectively.
Mooring analyses were prepared for a range of
tsunami water level increases and are summarized in
Fig. 4.22. The maximum allowable mooring line
load should be less than 55% of the line minimum
breaking load (MBL.) The analyses clearly show
that the mooring lines are significantly overstressed
for the 2 m height and break for the 3-4 m heights. It
should be noted that the analysis is based on the
assumption that the lines were all properly pre-loaded
(i.e. evenly loaded at 20 tonnes.) If this were not
the case, then it is likely that lines would have parted
at lower relative water level increases. The results
presented in Figure 4.19 clearly show that typical
moored vessel arrangements are vulnerable to tsunami
wave heights comparable to those experienced in Sri
Lanka and India during the Indian Ocean tsunami.
The analyses are consistent, for example, with the
experience at the Port of Chennai.
Dykstra et al (2006) report tsunami modeling results
for the Port of Long Beach and Los Angeles. Figure
4.23 shows, for a hypothesized Palos Verde landslide
scenario with an approximate return period 10,000
years, that the maximum tsunami height at any berth
location in the port complex is 3m or less with the
exception of a very isolated area. Thus Fig. 4.22
indicates that only a very small portion of the berths
would be vulnerable to line overstressing or parting
owing to water level rise alone so long as the ship
were moored properly and the lines were judiciously
pre-tensioned.
Fig. 4.21: Typical mooring line arrangement for a
post-panamax container ship
Fig. 4.22: Mooring line analysis for various tsunami
heights (VWL)
HAC Approach
Ship motions were computed using the TERMSIM
model developed by MARIN. While not developed
for tsunami analysis (it cannot simulate a rapid rise in
water level), it can perform a full dynamic analysis of
the tsunami-induced currents. The same
vessel/mooring arrangement used above was modeled
here. The water level and current field at a particular
location in the port complex is shown in Fig. 4.24;
dynamic mooring results are presented in Figs. 4.24
thru 27 which show that the hypothetical tsunami
currents are not sufficient to part the mooring lines.
Water Level [m]
Above 7
6.5 - 7
6 - 6.5
5.5 - 6
5 - 5.5
4.5 - 5
4 - 4.5
3.5 - 4
3 - 3.5
2.5 - 3
2 - 2.5
1.5 - 2
1 - 1.5
0.5 - 1
0 - 0.5
Below 0
Undefined Value
0.0 0.5 1.0 1.5 2.0 2.5 3.0 3.5 4.0 4.5 5.0 5.5 6.0 6.5 7.0 7.5 8.0 8.5 9.0 9.5
(Units inkilometer)
0.0
0.5
1.0
1.5
2.0
2.5
3.0
3.5
4.0
4.5
5.0
5.5
6.0
6.5
7.0
(U
n
its
in
k
ilo
m
e
te
r)
Water Level
Fig. 4.23: Tsunami height within the ports of Los Angeles
and Long Beach for a hypothetical even
0
0.2
0.4
0.6
0.8
1
1.2
1.4
1.6
0 500 1000 1500 2000 2500
Time (sec)
S
p
e
e
d
(
m
/
s
)
0
50
100
150
200
250
300
350
400
D
i
r
e
c
t
i
o
n
(
c
o
m
p
a
s
s
)
-2
-1.5
-1
-0.5
0
0.5
1
1.5
2
0 500 1000 1500 2000 2500
Time (sec)
W
a
t
e
r
S
u
r
f
a
c
e
(
m
,
M
S
L
)
Fig. 4.24: Hypothetical tsunami-induced water level and
current velocity
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
100
0 500 1000 1500 2000 2500
Time (sec)
L
o
a
d
(
t
o
n
n
e
s
)
MBL
Fig. 4.25: Head mooring line loads
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
100
0 500 1000 1500 2000 2500
Time (sec)
L
o
a
d
(
t
o
n
n
e
s
)
MBL
Fig. 4.26: Spring Mooring Line Loads
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
100
0 500 1000 1500 2000 2500
Time (sec)
L
o
a
d
(
t
o
n
n
e
s
)
MBL
Fig. 4.27: Stern mooring line load
4.2.5 Maneuvering Analysis
It is clear from the Sri Lankan and Indian experience
that tsunamis pose very considerable threats to both
maneuvering vessels as well as vessels that have
broken from their moorings. Accelerated
tsunami-induced currents are the principle mechanism
responsible for creating chaos. The SHIPMA
maneuvering model developed by MARIN was used
to demonstrate the impact of tsunami currents.
SHIPMA is a fully dynamic, time-domain, model that
incorporates an autopilot algorithm that keeps a vessel
exposed to given wind/wave/current conditions on a
desired track to the extent possible. Model input
includes vessel geometry and hydrodynamic
characteristics, engine/rudder properties, and
environmental conditions. With regard to
maneuvering ships, observations during the Indian
Ocean Tsunami make it clear that the velocities
generated by the tsunami can cause a temporary loss
of vessel control. The same Post-Panamax container
vessel and tsunami event above was modeled with
SHIPMA. Specifically, the vessel pathway during a
simple maneuver was evaluated for normal and
tsunami-induced currents.
Figure 4.28 shows that while the maneuver would be
impacted by the tsunami, it would not lose control.
The reader should remain aware, however, that the
model does not accurately model the wave effects as
mentioned above and simply models the tsunami
induced current field. The crest of the tsunami can
be seen in the left panel of Fig. 4.28 along with the
vessel track. The right panel shows vessel tracks with
and without the tsunami currents. The tsunami does
not cause an accident although additional work on the
front wave effects is warranted. The model results
also suggest the need to train pilots to become familiar
with the potential threats of a tsunami. Evasive
actions could be determined for a specific location in
order to avoid catastrophe.
4.2.6 Summary and Conclusions
Results of the present work are provided below:
Tsunamis can break ships from their moorings.
Once free, the vessels will drift under tsunami
currents which may cause them to collide with
other ships and/or harbor works. Tsunami
currents can also cause a maneuvering ship to
lose control.
Existing modeling tools offer an effective
means for examining the potential risks of
tsunami events in harbors. Static mooring
analysis (VWL) serves as a simple means for
a first order assessment of the vulnerability of
a moored ship to a tsunami.
Mooring analysis can be approximated using
existing dynamic modeling tools.
Dynamic maneuvering analysis is also
effective. Results from same can be used to
help pilots to prepare for and ameliorate the
potential risk of a tsunami.
Additional research is needed to develop a
tsunami wave force algorithm that would
better define dynamic loads for analysis.
Pilot training and mooring line management
could significantly reduce the risk of accident
during a tsunami event.
Fig. 4.28: Impact of tsunami-induced currents on ship
maneuvering
4.2.7 Reference
Dykstra, D.H., and W. J in (2006): Detailed modeling
of locally generated tsunami propagation into the
ports of Los Angeles and Long Beach, Proc. 30th
Int. Conf. Coastal Eng., ASCE.
Headland J ., Smith E., Dykstra D., and Tibakovs, T.
(2006): Effects of tsunamis on moored
/maneuvering ships, Proc. of the 30th
International Conference, ASCE, pp.1603-1624.
Naval Facilities Engineering Command (1986): U.S.
Navys design manual DM 26.4- Fixed Moorings
pp.26-4.1-99.
Ohgaki, K., H. Yoneyama and T. Suzuki (2008):
Evaluation on Safety of Moored Ships and
Mooring Systems for a Tsunami Attack, Proc. of
Oceans '08/Techno-Ocean '08, MTS/IEEE, 6p.
Ohgaki, K., M. Tsuda, A. Kurihara, H. Yoneyama and
T. Hiraishi (2009): Fundamental Model
Experiments on Response Characteristics of a
Moored Ship and Mooring Facilities by Tsunami
Flow, Proc. of ISOPE-2009, pp.1124-1131.
4.3 DAMAGE TO SMALL SHIPS
4.3.1 Introduction
A tsunami can directly cause human casualties and
building destruction, as well as seriously damage
moving and moored ships. In particular, small ships
such as fishing boats and pleasure boats are easily
tossed about by a tsunami because of their small
displacement volume. Ships are difficult to steer and
can drift about. Ships berthed in a port are usually
moored with ropes and fenders, but they can drift
about when the mooring ropes become loose and/or
broken by a relatively small tsunami. Therefore, even
if the magnitude of a tsunami may not be very large,
small ships can be damaged. In addition, drifting ships
can cause secondary damage by hitting people and
buildings.
Most reported ship damage due to tsunamis in the past
has been related to small vessels such as fishing boats.
Damage to small ships is classified as follows: drifting
of a ship, collision of a ship with a quay wall,
overturning / sinking of a ship, the casting ashore of a
ship, and collision of a ship with buildings.
4.3.2 Drift of Ships
In a fishing port, many fishing boats are moored at
quay walls and grounded on rampways. A small ship
such as a fishing boat can be easily affected by a
tsunami, freely drifting about if the mooring ropes
become loose and/or are broken. In addition, a fishing
boat grounded on land can be easily washed away
even if a tsunami is not very high, because the boats
are arranged to be easy to sail out. If a grounded
fishing boat is washed away and drifts about in the
harbor basin due to a tsunami of only about 1.5 m in
height, it is likely to come into contact with fishing
boats that are trying to take refuge in the harbor.
If the tsunami height becomes greater than the
elevation of land above the sea surface, a ship can be
washed onto the land by the tsunami. In general, the
height of a wharf above the sea surface in a fishing
port is around 2 m at maximum, and a fishing boat can
drift ashore if a tsunami of more than 2 m in height
attacks the port. As one example of this, a fishing boat
moved back and forth over the wharf with the
flooding and receding of a tsunami of around 3.5 m
that attacked the port. Figure 4.29 shows a fishing
boat that drifted onto the beach struck by a tsunami
around 5 m high. The fishing boat which had been
moored in the fishing port was washed away outside
the port, drifted about in the sea, and then was
stranded on the shore by the tsunami. A large ship
would usually not be set adrift unless the tsunami
height was more than 5 or 6 m.
Fig. 4.29: Fishing boat stranded on a beach (Tomita et al.,
2005)
4.3.3 Collision of Ships with Quay Walls and
Overturning / Sinking of Ships
Sometimes a ship set adrift by a tsunami is tossed
about by strong currents and overturned or sunk by
seawater intrusion into it. Overturning can also occur
due to imbalance of the mooring if some mooring
ropes are broken while some remains. Even a firmly
moored ship can be overturned due to the undertow of
a tsunami. Such overturning and sinking of a ship can
occur even when the tsunami height is small. In one
case, a 2-m tsunami caused a fishing boat moored at a
quay wall to be overturned when it was receding,
while another ship was damaged when its bottom
came into contact with the sea bed during the receding
of the tsunami. Figure 4.30 shows a photo of an
overturned fishing boat in a harbor basin after a
tsunami of around 2.5 m in height.
Figure 4.31 shows a collision of fishing boats near a
quay wall. One fishing boat was washed onto another
by a tsunami of more than 3.5 m in height. This
tsunami moved many fishing boats onto quays and
jetties and overturned or sank them. When the tsunami
height becomes around 5 m, most fishing boats can
drift about in a harbor basin while being tossed about
by the strong current, and can be sunk or washed onto
the land. When a tsunami of this level attacks a port,
even large vessels can be damaged. In one instance, a
7,000-ton cement carrier was overturned in a harbor
basin, and a 10,000-t container ship crashed into the
breakwater.
Fig. 4.30: Overturning of a fishing boat by receding
tsunami (Tanimoto et al., 1983)
Fig. 4.31: Collision of the fishing boat (Tanimoto et al.,
1983)
4.3.4 Casting ashore of Ships and Collision of Ships
with Buildings
Ships, which are washed ashore or set adrift by a
tsunami, are mostly left behind on land after being
transported by the undertow of the tsunami. Figure
4.32 shows a fishing boat stranded on a quay by a
tsunami. In this photo, a tsunami of about 2.5 m in
height flowed over the quay and the fishing boat was
left behind on it. Fishing boats can be stranded on a
jetty or cast on a quay by a tsunami around 2 or 3 m in
height.
Figure 4.33 shows a damaged cargo ship of several
hundred tons stranded on a pier after a tsunami of
around 5 m in height. This tsunami caused many
fishing boats and cargo ships to drift ashore and
become cast on embankments and roads or rice fields.
In one case of a tsunami around 5 m high, a 1,000-ton
work ship moored in the harbor basin became
stranded on the quay. The box-type work ship has a
small draft and is therefore relatively easily set adrift.
When a tsunami is large, ships washed ashore by the
tsunami can collide with houses, destroying them or
causing heavy secondary damages. For example, a
4-m-high tsunami washed a fishing boat up a shallow
draft quay beyond the revetment, and it crashed into
the house.
In another case, a tsunami of around 5 m washed
ashore a cargo ship of several hundred tons, causing it
to crash into a house. Many fishing boats also drifted
ashore causing heavy secondary damage, such as the
collapse of buildings. Figure 4.34 shows a fishing boat
left on land and collapsed buildings.
When the height of a tsunami reaches around 7 m,
even a large cargo ship can be washed ashore. In one
case, a 2,500-ton power-generation plant ship moored
in a harbor basin was carried by a tsunami into a
residential area 3 km inland from the shore.
Fig. 4.32: A stranded fishing boat on a quay (Tomita et al.,
2004)
Fig. 4.33: A damaged cargo ship on a pier (Kochi Harbour
and Airport Construction Office
Fig. 4.34: Collision of a fishing boat with a house
(Takayama et al., 1994)
4.3.5 Conclusions
Table 4.3 shows the relationship between the
magnitude of a tsunami and ship damage. A tsunami
around 2 or 3 m in height can cause a small ship to
drift away, be overturned, sink, crash into a quay wall,
or become stranded on a quay or jetty. A tsunami 5 or
6 m or more in height can severely damage a small
ship and even large ships can drift away and be cast
up on land. Drifting ships can cause heavy secondary
damage to buildings and people. A tsunami 10 m or
more in height can cause a major disaster due to the
drifting of ships.
Table 4.3: Relationship between tsunami magnitude and
ship damage
Tsunami
Magnitude
Ship
Size
Damage Pattern
Small
(Tsunami
height: more
than 2 or 3 m)
Small
Ship
Drifting
Collision with quay wall
Overturning / Sinking
Being cast ashore
Large
(Tsunami
height: more
than 5 or 6 m)
Small
Ship
Being cast ashore
Collision with buildings
Large
Ship
Drift
Collision with quay wall
Being cast ashore
Collision with buildings
4.3.6 References
Tomita, T., K. Honda, T. Sugano, and T. Arikawa
(2005): Field investigation on damage due to 2004
Indian Ocean Tsunami in Sri Lanka, Maldives and
Indonesia with tsunami simulation, Tech. Note Port
and Airport Res. Inst., 1110, in J apanese.
Tomita, T., H. Kawai, and T. Kakinuma (2004):
Tsunami disasters and tsunami characteristics due
to the Tokachi-oki Earthquake in 2003, Tech. Note
Port and Airport Res. Inst., 1082, in J apanese.
Takayama, T., Y. Suzuki, H. Tsuruya, S. Takahashi, C.
Gotoh, T. Nagai, N. Hashimoto, T. Nagao, T.
Hosoyamada, K. Shimosako, K. Endo, and T. Asai
(1994): Field investigations of the tsunami caused
by 1993 Hokkaido Nansei-oki Earthquake, Tech.
Note Port and Harbour Res. Inst., 775, in J apanese.
Tanimoto, K., T. Takayama, K. Murakami, S. Murata,
H. Tsuruya, S. Takahashi, M. Morikawa, Y.
Yoshimoto, S. Nakano, and T. Hiraishi (1983):
Field and laboratory investigations of the tsunami
caused by 1983 Nihonkai Chubu Earthquake, Tech.
Note Port and Harbour Res. Inst., 470, in J apanese.
Kochi Harbour and Airport Construction Office,
Shikoku Regional Development Bureau, Ministry
of Land, Infrastructure and Transport: Susaki Port
Brochure, in J apanese.
5. INTERACTIONS BETWEEN
TSUNAMIS AND PORT FACILITIES
________________________________________________________
As discussed in Chapter 2 we have to learn much from
the disasters in the past. Table 5.1 shows the relationship
between tsunami height and damage caused by Tsunami
(Shuto, 1991). Tsunami with a wave height of less than
2m may not cause major disasters, only limited damage
in the sea and in the shore area. However, when the
wave height exceeds 4m, it may cause heavy casualties
including the destruction of houses and buildings. If it
exceeds 8m, it becomes fatally destructive and can
result in the massive loss of lives.
In the previous chapter the tsunami damage to ships are
discussed and the damage to port facilities is discussed
in this chapter. It should be noted that the damage
becomes significant where the tsunami is violent
especially when breaking. Therefore the major damages
occur in near shore areas.
5.1 TYPICAL DAMAGE TO PORT
FACILITIES IN WATER
5.1.1 Offshore/Deepwater
Storm waves in offshore deepwaters are usually very
severe while tsunami in deepwater is relatively calm.
Therefore, ordinary maritime facilities such as offshore
oil terminals in deepwater usually suffer no significant
tsunami damage.
5.1.2 Relatively Deepwater Areas in and around a
Port
When the water depth becomes shallower, the tsunami
actions become more violent. However, facilities in
relatively deep water in and around ports such as
breakwaters and seawalls usually have sufficient
strength against tsunami action since they are designed
to withstand storm waves. No significant damage has
been recorded for such facilities around Japanese ports,
especially for outer breakwaters. However, damage due
to tsunami-induced rapid currents should be considered.
Local scouring around breakwater heads was observed
after the 1993 Hokkaido-Nanseioki Earthquake tsunami
(Takayama et al., 1994).
The East breakwater of Okushiri Port suffered scouring
at the head. Figure 5.1 shows the scouring damage due
to tsunami of more than 3 m. A shown in the figure the
caisson had settled down 1 m below the low water level
since not only the sandbed but also the rubble mound
was scoured (Tsuruya and Nakagawa, 1983).
Tsunami-induced current can cause scouring of the
seabed resulting in failure of breakwaters and seawalls.
In addition, the change of seabed depth can lead to
shoaling of navigation channels.
Fig. 5.1: Scouring damage of the east breakwater of Okushiri
Port (Takayama et.a. 1994; Tsuruya et.al. 1993)
5.1.3 Inner Harbor Water Areas
Figure 5.2 shows the north jetty in an inner area of
Okushiri Port. The jetty was a caisson breakwater, and
its caissons had slid significantly due to the water level
difference between the sea side and the harbor side. The
breakwaters, jetties or quay walls in an inner harbor are
usually not expected to be exposed to severe wave
actions and therefore may suffer damage if exposed to
tsunami action.
Fig. 5.2: Disrupted caissons of north jetty in Okushiri Port
As discussed in 2.7, a deck of a piled jetty at Phang-Nga
fishing port in Thailand was damaged by the Indian
Ocean Tsunami. Precast RC slabs were subjected to the
uplift forces of the tsunami. The lift force is a total of its
buoyancy and the lift force of the tsunami current.
5.1.4 Near Shore Areas
In near shore areas, tsunami front breaks and severe
impact forces and rapid currents cause damage to
breakwaters, seawalls and other facilities.
Figure 5.3 shows scattered wave dissipating concrete
blocks from detached breakwaters in a near shore area.
Due to the strong current of the breaking tsunami in a
shore area, concrete blocks can be moved significantly
once they start drifting.
Figure 5.4 shows a small seawall in Sri Lanka which
had settlements but was almost intact even against a 4-m
tsunami in a shore area. The seawall is a revetment with
rubble stones covering a small beach scarp. Rubble
stones are relatively resistant to tsunami currents
Figure 5.5 shows a seawall in a shore area in Taisei
Town near a fishery port in Japan which was tilted
seaward by a tsunami. This is a typical failure of
seawalls due to receding tsunami. In designing the
seawall, attention is paid to the positive water pressure
due to storm waves on seawalls in the near-shore area
but not to tsunami pressure, especially the negative
water pressure due to a receding tsunami. In the photo,
the wall has been displaced and scouring of the seawall
toe and body have consequently occurred.
Fig. 5.3: Scattered wave-dissipating concrete blocks
Nihonkai-Chubu Tsunami
Fig. 5.4: Surviving seawall in Sri Lanka
Fig. 5.5: Tilted seawall in Taisei Town in Japan
Table 5.1: Tsunami height and damage(Shuto1991)
5.2 TYPICAL DAMAGE TO PORT
FACILITIES ON LAND
5.2.1 Port Buildings
Figure 5.6 shows typical damage to a warehouse at Goal
Port in Sri Lanka. The inundation depth at the
warehouse was 3 m above the ground level (5.3 m
above sea level). The warehouse lay 60 m along the
quay and its height was about 8 m. The 30-cm-thick
concrete wall was not damaged although the doors were
broken and the stored items were spoiled.
Figure 5.7 shows a small building in a fishery port at
Hikkaduwa in Sri Lanka. The water rose above the first
floor (4.7 m above the sea level). The doors and
windows of the first floor were destroyed but the main
concrete walls remained intact as shown in the figure.
This is because concrete buildings are relatively strong
against tsunami, and the water pressure was reduced due
to the intrusion of water through the broken windows
and doors. It should be noted that the power of the
tsunami was reduced by the breakwaters of the fishery
port and the damage to the houses was less than the
damage outside the port.
5.2.2 Oil Storage Facilities
Figure 5.8 shows the oil tanks at the oil delivery
terminal of Knueng Raya Port to the east of Banda Ache
in Indonesia. Three tanks (17 m in diameter and 11 m in
height) were washed away by tsunami of more than 5 m
in height during the Indian Ocean Tsunami. The tanks
that were moved were empty and the remaining tanks
had been full of oil.
During the Niigata Earthquake in 1964 in Japan, fires
broke out due to sloshing (forced oscillating) of oil in
storage tanks in Niigata Port and the oil was spread due
to the tsunami, causing fires in the town near the port.
Spreading oil is very dangerous and contaminates the
environment.
5.2.3 Containers
Large-scale damage to container terminals due to
tsunami has fortunately not occurred. However, during
Hurricane Katrina many containers were washed outside
the port of Gulfport and destroyed houses. If a large
tsunami attacks a container terminal, similar damage can
occur.
Fig. 5.6: Warehouse at Goal Port in Sri Lanka
Fig. 5.7: A small building in a fishery port in Hikkaduwa
Fig. 5.8: Oil storage tanks that moved in Banda Aceh
5.3 STABILITY OF PORT FACILITIES
AGAINST TSUNAMI
Tsunami forces vary significantly due to tsunami wave
shoaling and breaking. The forces also depend on the
type of structure. The stability of port facilities should
be examined considering such variations and all phases
of tsunami attack including positive and negative peaks
and the impact of the tsunami front breaker. The
stability of the facilities refers to the stability of the
entire structure including the foundation, superstructure
and wall members.
Table 5.2: Design procedures of port facilities
Table 5.3: Areas depending on Tsunami Characteristics
Table 5.2 shows the design procedures for port facilities.
The studies on the methods of designing port facilities
to withstand a tsunami attack have been conducted for
many years (Fukui et.al. 1963; Kamel 1970; Lowe
1971) but not well established. However, methods used
to withstand sea waves and river currents can be used
considering the characteristics of incident tsunami. The
accumulated knowledge of coastal and river
engineering can be applied for the designs against
tsunamis. The most important and difficult point is
to evaluated properly the incident tsunami profiles
(height and current with direction) using numerical
tsunami simulations which introduced in chapter 3..
Table 5.3 shows the typical three areas depending on the
tsunami characteristics. Obviously in deepwater the
tsunami behaves like a gentle long period waves and the
pressure on a wall can be evaluated by a long wave
theory. The pressure varies slowly according the
elevation of tsunami. The areas near the shoreline (in
water and on land) are very dangerous since the tsunami
front is breaking and the current becomes vary rapid. In
such a breaking wave area breaking wave pressures
should be considered in addition to the slowly-varying
pressures. Instability and scouring of rock rubble and
seabed should be also considered carefully. The tsunami
becomes gentle after the breaking and the tsunami
behaves as a gently flow in such an onshore slow
current area where the pressure varies slowly.
5.3.1 Tsunami Forces on Vertical Structures
Vertical wall in deep water area
When the water depth is large, the tsunami force is a
slowly varying force and can be estimated relatively
easily. The tsunami force can be estimated roughly by
the tsunami height difference between the front side and
the back of the structure, which is obtained by numerical
simulation. The positive and negative peaks should be
evaluated.
Fig. 5.10: Tsunami pressure distribution on a caisson
(Tanimoto et al., 1983)
Tanimoto et al. proposed a design pressure formula of
tsunami for a caisson in deepwater considering a wave
force with a very long period wave. Figure 5.10 shows
the pressure distribution on the caisson wall at its
positive peak, where * is the elevation of water, p
1
is
the pressure intensity, is the mass density of water, g is
gravity acceleration and a
I
is the incident tsunami height.
Generation and Propagation of Tsunami
Incident Tsunami Profile
Height and Current with Direction
Design Considering the Tsunami Profile
Design against Storm Waves and/or Current
Z
p
P1
I
* and p
1
can be determined by the following equations:
* = 3.0 a
I
(5.1)
p
1
= 2.2 ga
I
(5.2)
Vertical wall in breaking wave area
In near shore areas, when a tsunami front breaks, the
impact pressure can act on the vertical walls in the area.
The impulsive pressure is still difficult to estimate and,
if possible, should be evaluated from physical model
experiments. The impact force is due to collision of the
water surface with a wall and is very similar to the
impact force due to waves. Roughly speaking, the
impact pressure is two or three times the static pressure
(Goda 1985; Takahashi, 1997). It should be noted that
the impact force is deeply dependent of the incident
angle of the tsunami and at the angle =90 degrees
the impact force is zero. This relation can be expressed
by cos
2
.
Dames and Moore (1981) and Asakura et al.(2003)
proposed a similar design impact pressure formula of
tsunami for a wall on land. Figure 5.11 shows the
pressure distribution on the wall, where * is the
elevation of water, p