Professional Documents
Culture Documents
A Research paper
On
Export Growth Sources of Bangladesh Readymade Garment Industry.
(Constant Market Share Model).
BY
Sk. Ashiquer Rahman
ID#4585974929
A Thesis Submitted In Partial Fulfillment of the Requirement for the Degree of Masters in Inter-
national Economics and Finance
TO,
Prof.Paitoon Wiboonchutikula,
Ph.D ,Associate professor and
Chairperson, Faculty of Economics,
CHULALONGKORN UNIVERSITY,
Supervisor: Sirima Bunnag, Assistant Professor,
Faculty of Economics, Chulalongkorn University, Thailand.
Letter of Transmittal
June 1, 2003
To,
Sirima Bunnag, Supervisor,
Assistant Professor, Faculty of Economics,
Chulalongkorn University, Thailand.
Subject: Letter of Transmittal.
Dear Madam,
Here is my paper on “Export Growth Sources of Bangladesh Readymade Garment Industry.
(Constant Market Share Model)” that I was assigned. It was a great opportunity for me to
acquire practical knowledge of the master in economics and finance.
I have concentrated my best effort to achieve the objectives of the report and hope that my
endeavor will serve the purpose.
I believe that the knowledge and experience I have gathered during my paper preparation
will immensely help me in my professional life. I will be obliged if you kindly approve this
effort.
Sincerely yours,
Sk. Ashiquer Rahman
Id#4585974929
Masters in International Economics and Finance
Bangkok, Thailand
ii
“Export Growth Sources of Bangladesh Readymade Garment Industry. (Constant Market Share Model)”
2002
Preface
Any institutional education would not be completed if it were confined within theoretical aspects.
Every branch of education has become more competed by their practical application and
accomplishment of full knowledge. We shall be benefited by our education if we can effectively
apply the institutional education in practical fields. Hence, we all need practical education to apply
theoretical knowledge in real world. By considering this importance “faculty of economics”
arranges the individual study for the students of Masters in International Economics and Finance.
As a part of this program my topic was selected as ““Export Growth Sources of Bangladesh
Readymade Garment Industry. (Constant Market Share Model)”
I tried my best to conduct an effective study by arrange and analysis data. There may be some
mistakes, which are truly unintentional. So, I would request to look at the matter with merciful
mind.
iii
“Export Growth Sources of Bangladesh Readymade Garment Industry. (Constant Market Share Model)”
2002
Acknowledgement
First, all praises go to almighty Allah, the most gracious, the most merciful to give me the ability for
all these I have done.
Then I would like to thank Ms. Wanwadee Wongmongkol. Now I would like to thank Sirima Bunnag,
paper Supervisor, Assistant Professor, Faculty of Economics, Chulalongkorn University,
Thailand to give me the opportunity to do this project.
I would also like to thank Professor. Paitoon Wiboonchutikula, Ph.D ,Associate professor and
Chairperson of Faculty of Economics, Chulalongkorn University & Professor Salinee. Secretatery
international economics and finance. My striking thanks go to honorable sir Dr. MN.Sirker who
has helped me in all aspect to prepare the report.
I would like to thank lab incharge Ms. Mink . Last but not the least I wish to thank my
friends, William Lloyed ,Nakarin and Athipat, for their very helpful discussions.
iv
“Export Growth Sources of Bangladesh Readymade Garment Industry. (Constant Market Share Model)”
2002
Table of Content
Title Page
Letter of Transmittal ii
Preface iii
Acknowledgement iv
Table Of Content v
Abstract 1-1
CHAPTER I 1-15
Introduction 1-15
CHAPTER II 15-18
2.1. Statement of the Problem and its Significance 15-16
2.2. The objective of the study 16-17
2.3. Scope of the study 17-17
2.4. Organization of the study 17-18
CHAPTER-III 18-34
3. 1. Market structure of Bangladeshi Garment Industry 18-25
3.2. Recent Performance of the Apparel Export Sector 25-34
CHAPTER IV 34-53
4.1. Literature Review 34-42
4.2. Conceptual Framework 42-52
4.3.Empirical result of Bangladeshi garment industry 52-53
CHAPTER V 53- 108
5.1.Sources Of International Competitiveness 53-53
5.2. Measure of Competitiveness 53-54
5.3. Macroeconomic Developments 54-54
5.3. Developments:Macroeconomic 54-54
5.3.1.Recent Growth Performance 54-60
5.3.2 Savings-Investment Performance 60-62
5.3.3. Readymade garment 62-65
5.3.4 Trends in External Sector 65-65
5.3.5 Bangladesh's Export Sector 65-68
5.3.6 Exchange Rate Policy and Export Performance 69-80
5.3.7. Export Performance 80-85
4.3.8. Primary And Manufactured Commodities 85-88
4.3.9. Export: Country Wise 88-97
5.3.10. Economic Trends 98-101
5.3.11. Future Growth Prospects 101-103
5.3.12 .Readymade garment and potential service 103-108
CHAPTER –VI 108-111
Conclusion 108-111
CHAPTER VII 111-117
Recommendation 111-117
References 118-119
Appendix 120-123
v
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
Abstract
Bangladesh’s recent export performance in the world market for readymade garment
has improved markedly. In this study, Constant Market Share Analysis is used in order to
determine the competitiveness of Bangladesh and its competitors, which are the main
readymade garment producers, in the USA, UK.CANADA AND ALL others markets
between 1989 and 1998 periods. Constant Market Share (CMS) analysis is a popular tool for
analyzing changes in exports of a country. Nevertheless, its theoretical foundations (and
policy relevance) have been questioned. In this paper, we provide such a foundation by
relating CMS analysis of export growth. An indication of the empirical relevance of this
relationship is given by comparing the CMS analysis. The analysis reveals this improvement to
be predominantly the result of competitive advantages of ready made garment industry .
Bangladesh is able to export s readymade garment of high and consistent quality at low costs,
under conditions which meet the world standards set by the world. In addition to competitive
advantages, Bangladesh has benefited from growth in the overall size of the world export
market for readymade garment, but has suffered from having only relatively small shares in
the important markets of some member States. Market research on consumers’ demand and
preferences could further improve Bangladesh’s recent export performance of readymade
garment.
Keywords: Bangladesh, Competitiveness, Constant Market Share Model. Ready made Garment.
CHAPTER I
Introduction
1
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
current US$ value grew at an annual compound rate of 14.4 per
cent. In fact, Bangladesh experienced double digit export growth
in most of the years during the 1990s. Imports, on the other
hand, grew at an annual compound rate of 10.9 per cent during
1990s. The gap between export and import widened from -US$1792
million in 1990/91 to -$2814 million in 1999/00, although the
share of export earnings in import payments steadily rose from 31
per cent in 1980/81 to 67 per cent in 1999/00. The openness of
the economy as measured by total external trade as a proportion
of GDP went up from around 22 percent in 1990/91 to nearly 30 per
cent in 1999/00 with the share of export in GDP rising from 7 per
cent to 12 percent during the same period. The structure of
export has changed significantly over the past two decades.
Bangladesh seems to have made the transition from resource-based
to process-based exports. In 1980/81, primary commodity
constituted nearly 29 per cent of total exports. In 1990/91, this
share came down to 17.8 per cent and further down to 8.2 per cent
in 1999/00. There has been shift from jute-centric to garments-
centric export. In 1980-81, raw jute and jute goods together
constituted 68 percent of total exports. Between 1980/81 and
1999/00, export of both raw jute and jute products declined in
absolute terms and their total share came down to only 6 per cent
in 1999/00. In contrast, woven and knit garments together
accounted for less than 1 per cent of exports in 1980/81. Their
combined share in exports rose to nearly 76 percent in 1999/00.A
change in the composition of output and employment away from the
agricultural sector in the direction of manufacturing and service
sectors is often used as a measure of development. In Bangladesh,
the share of agriculture in GDP declined from 29.2 percent in
1990-91 to 25.5 percent in 1999-00 - a decline of 3.7 percent.
The fall was compensated by an increase in the share of
manufacturing and construction. Despite declining share of
agriculture in GDP, the increase in food production has been
quite satisfactory moving the country from a state of chronic
2
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
food deficit to near self-sufficiency level. Manufacturing
industry in Bangladesh achieved respectable growth during 1990s.
The contribution of manufacturing to GDP increased from 12.9 per
cent in 1990-91 to 15.4 per cent in 1999-00. However, the
sector's current share in GDP appears rather modest for it to
spearhead sustained high growth of the economy. Thus, for
example, in Thailand the share of manufacturing in overall GDP
was 22 per cent in 1980 and it rose to 32 per cent by 1998. The
growth of Bangladesh’s manufacturing sector has also been rather
narrowly based with readymade garments accounting for nearly a
quarter of the scrotal growth. Other important export industries
contributing to scrotal growth are Fish & seafood, and Leather
tanning. Major import substituting industries experiencing
significant growth during this period include Pharmaceutical,
Indigenous cigarettes (bidi), Job printing and Re-rolling mills.
Other success stories of Bangladesh include maintenance of low
level of inflation, rapid spread of micro credit program largely
at the initiative of NGOs, and significant improvements in the
social sector. However, in spite of such successes, the structure
of production and exports has remained extremely narrow in
Bangladesh. Bangladesh has also failed to attract adequate amount
of FDI into the country. While the opening up of gas, electricity
and telecommunication sub-sectors to private investment has
resulted in the inflow of considerable foreign direct investments
(FDI) in these sectors, the overall inflow of FDI has remained
sluggish. The narrow export base has rendered Bangladesh’s
external sector extremely dependent on global trading environment
and preferential treatment by its main trading partners. The
recent poor performance of exports in the face of global economic
slowdown has confirmed this vulnerability of the Bangladesh’s
external sector. Other weaknesses of Bangladesh economy include a
dysfunctional banking system overburdened with classified loans,
persistent loss of the state owned enterprises, poor
3
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
infrastructure, deficient tax efforts, political disturbances and
unsatisfactory law and order situation.
4
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
Bangladesh
Exports of goods and services (% of GDP) *
14.0
( total)
Total debt service (% of exports of goods and 9.2
services)** (total)
Source- World Bank Group
Figure-1
*
**
5
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
Export Growth from Market Share (%) 88-89 to 8.8%
93-94
Export Growth from Market Diversification (%) 0%
88-89 to 93-94
6
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
Average Outstanding Money M2 (% of GDP) 1996 36%
Average Annual Growth Rate of GDP Deflator (%) 4.9%
1990-96
Credit to Private Sector (% of GDP) 1996 20.6%
Stock Market Capitalization (% of GDP) 1996 14.3%
Real Interest Rate (%) 1996 8%
Source- World Bank Group
7
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
and continues to rely heavily on foreign buying houses, notably
those from India and Sri Lanka. These intermediaries capture a
large part of the margin. The scope for the industry to benefit
from devaluations is limited in such a situation. The industry
should have used the last 20 years to go deeper into the
marketing channel. The fact that foreign direct investment had
not been allowed in the industry is one possible reason for our
failure to do so. The Bangladesh Garments Manufacturers and
Exporters Association (BGMEA) is now thinking of setting up
marketing centers abroad. This is an area where public-private
sector collaboration may be required. The only import-
substituting industry that grew significantly, reflecting
somewhat the East Asian pattern, is pharmaceuticals. It first
grew under protection alongside imported pharmaceuticals. It then
out-competed the imported products and has now started exporting.
It is possible that some parts of the industry are not very
efficient but are surviving due to protection while other parts
are efficient and competing in world markets. The shrimp
processing industry is an interesting case. A few years ago, the
industry faced serious reputation problems due to the fraudulent
practices of a few producers. The malpractices of a few
jeopardized the entire industry indicating that reputation is a
public good. In other words, the industry as a whole needed to
take remedial actions. The industry is now finally realizing this
and has started taking steps at self-regulation. Having concluded
that the government’s standards institute is inefficient, it has
adopted measures to impose standards on their own and monitor
compliance. The capital goods industry has declined, e.g.,
textile machinery industry has virtually disappeared. It is
important to have a capital goods industry. Adaptation of
technology is important for industrial growth. For this to
happen, one needs a domestic capital goods industry. Small scale
industries have done quite well in recent years and have largely
benefited from liberalization. On the one hand, they are not much
8
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
affected on the output side (do not compete with imports) but
benefit from the liberalization of imports of inputs. They
expanded at the expense of inefficient large-scale industries as
well as cottage industries. Poverty reduction will require
further growth in such small scale enterprises. The contribution
of export industries and large-scale industries to poverty
reduction will be less direct. Their main contribution will be
through generating capacity to import by earning foreign
exchange. This will help small-scale enterprises who need
imported inputs and this, in turn, will help reduce poverty. Cash
subsidies are currently given to various activities, such as
agro-processing, leather goods and light engineering. The
practice of providing cash subsidies started with Grameen
check(garment). It was meant to compensate for duties paid on
imports and amounted to 25% of total sales value, a high amount
by any standard. The rationale for providing cash subsidies,
especially at the current scale, is weak. Import duties have gone
down due to import liberalization. If compensation is to be
provided, the amount required for various products will have to
be re-calculated, taking into account the changes in duty rates.
Many people fear that the RMG industry will be hard hit after
2005 when quota privileges are withdrawn. However, the fears may
be exaggerated. The European market is already open and
Bangladeshi exporters are doing reasonably well there. The key is
to improve productivity and go deeper into the marketing chain.
Dispersed, non-farm growth in rural areas and in and around small
towns is probably the way to go. There is some potential in
micro-level enterprises but not much. Self-employment in low-
productivity activities does not hold much promise. Wage rates
will increase through small-scale activity, not much through
micro-enterprises. Industrial development will require
improvements in governance. Bangladeshi industry can do quite
well without much protection if there is better governance, e.g.,
if there is no toll collection and if utilities can be provided
9
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
efficiently. A recent study has shown that the costs of giving
tolls, as percentage of turnover, is greatest for small-scale
industry, and lower for micro and large enterprises.
10
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
recession and setbacks in certain markets, the country's export
trade would not slump badly perhaps and could be maintained at a
reasonable level if steps were taken much earlier to achieve
diversification of both exportable and their buyers. In that
case, the country would be hedged considerably against any
drastic fall in export earnings as reduced earnings of some items
or from some countries could be offset by good or steady earnings
from other sources. Exporters of Bangladeshi garment industries
must get used to being dynamic for a change. They must shake off
the habit of waiting for orders to come to them automatically.
They should be rather out in the field hunting for such orders.
Experts in the RMG field say that good markets are there for
Bangladeshi products in some South American countries, in the CIS
countries and in Japan. RMG producers should lose no time in
immediately exploring these markets and Bangladeshi missions’
abroad need to work round the clock in support of such market
identification and development activities. Government's fiscal
and other polices will have to be quickly adjusted as the
exporters search out new markets and attempt entering into them.
Apart from the conventional items, exporters need to be
encouraged in every way to go all-out to try and export
unconventional items and in greater quantities. It was estimated
that Bangladesh produces about 4.2 million tons of fresh fruits
and vegetables a year and a substantial quantity of such produce
gets wasted. But the same have good market demand abroad and can
earn good amounts in foreign currencies provided government makes
the right move to reduce freight, handling and other charges and
provides other incentives to exporters of fruits and vegetables.
Government policies taken in support of the moves of exporters of
agro-produces can probably create quickly new items for export at
a time when the country is in a rather desperate situation to
earn more foreign currency from its export trade.
11
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
A recent study has shown that the costs of giving tolls, as
percentage of turnover, is greatest for small-scale industry, and
lower for micro and large enterprises. Consistent with the on-
going trend of the free-market economic system and globalization
of world economy, a liberal trade policy was pursuer in the
th
financial year ended on 30 June, 2000 as in the preceding year
with the objective of providing protection to the domestic
industries, trade liberalization and expansion of export trade.
So a small change has occurred in Bangladeshi trade policy,
especially garments sector. Earning from the export of the
readymade garments which stood at 4352.0 million us dollar during
1999-2000 was 8.3% higher than 4020.0 million us dollar during
1998-1999. The USA, Canada, and EC countries were the principal
buyers. Export receipts from readymade garments were 1.2% higher
than the target of 4380.53 million us dollar for the year and
accounted for 75.7% of the total export receipts of the country.
Seventy-five per cent of Bangladesh's exports are dominated by
only one item-ready-made garment (RMG) - and the bulk of the
volumes of RMG exports go to North America and Europe. After RMG,
the only other mentionable items are shrimp, jute and leather.
Even the buyers of these secondary export items are limited in
number. The composition of the export trade to such a small
number of goods and their limited number of buyers mean that the
country's external trade is vulnerable to any downturn in the
external environment in the form of price fluctuation or reduced
demand. Both prices and demand for Bangladeshi RMG products have
recently much declined in the Us market the biggest single market
for Bangladesh's ready-made garment. Similar is the condition of
the other export items with the only exception of leather. But
notwithstanding the global recession and setbacks in certain
markets, the country's export trade would not slump badly perhaps
and could be maintained at a reasonable level if steps were taken
much earlier to achieve diversification of both exportable and
their buyers. In that case, the country would be hedged
12
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
considerably against any drastic fall in export earnings as
reduced earnings of some items or from some countries could be
offset by good or steady earnings from other sources. Exporters
of Bangladeshi garment industries must get used to being dynamic
for a change. They must shake off the habit of waiting for orders
to come to them automatically. They should be rather out in the
field hunting for such orders. Experts in the RMG field say that
good markets are there for Bangladeshi products in some South
American countries, in the CIS countries and in Japan. RMG
producers should lose no time in immediately exploring these
markets and Bangladeshi missions’ abroad need to work round the
clock in support of such market identification and development
activities. Government's fiscal and other polices will have to be
quickly adjusted as the exporters search out new markets and
attempt entering into them. Apart from the conventional items,
exporters need to be encouraged in every way to go all-out to try
and export unconventional items and in greater quantities. It was
estimated that Bangladesh produces about 4.2 million tons of
fresh fruits and vegetables a year and a substantial quantity of
such produce gets wasted. But the same have good market demand
abroad and can earn good amounts in foreign currencies provided
government makes the right move to reduce freight, handling and
other charges and provides other incentives to exporters of
fruits and vegetables. Government policies taken in support of
the moves of exporters of agro-produces can probably create
quickly new items for export at a time when the country is in a
rather desperate situation to earn more foreign currency from its
export trade.RMG business started in the late 70s as a negligible
non-traditional sector with a narrow export base and by the year
1983 it emerged as a promising export earning sector; presently
it contributes around 75 percent of the total export earnings.
Over the past one and half decade, RMG export earnings have
increased by more than 8 times with an exceptional growth rate of
16.5 percent per annum. In FY06, earnings reached about 8 billion
13
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
USD, which was only less than a billion USD in FY91. Excepting
FY02, the industry registered significant positive growth
throughout this period
14
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
country’s social development, woman empowerment and poverty
alleviation So, There in the light of importance of garments
industry in Bangladeshi economy, we intend to evaluate its export
growth and to analysis it’s structural change.
CHAPTER II
15
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
of workers in the garment industry in Bangladesh are women, it is
these women who are bearing the brunt of the market decline. At
present, there is not a single industry where this volume of
narrowly skilled workers call be reemployed. The crisis will
therefore have a devastating social effect, not only for the
women who will lose their jobs, but also for their families and
communities. With a modest beginning in the late seventies the
RMG sector in Bangladesh rapidly grew. Within a very short period
of time, it attained prominence in terms of its contribution to
Bangladesh’s gross domestic product (GDP), foreign exchange
earnings and employment. The industry flourished due to the cheap
and predominantly female labor market and the favored
international textiles and clothing regime under the Multi-Fibre
Agreement (MFA).
16
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
barriers to readymade garment exportation will be reviewed and
its impact on exports growth sources will be evaluated.
17
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
Chapter 6 gives the summary of the result and conclusions.
CHAPTER-III
• Yarn
• Fabric
• Apparel
18
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
become the fifth largest exporter of RMG to the European Union
and Sixth largest to the USA. The apparel industry in Bangladesh
is broadly classified into Knitwear, RMG, speciality/linen
including terry towels and others. The total export of apparel
was about Takas 105.87 billion during 1995-96. The share of RMG
export in this sector is above 75%. The composition of export of
apparel by type is indicated in the following chart:
19
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
from the quality considerations mentioned earlier, domestic
production is inadequate to meet the fabric demand. The
composition of demand of fabrics for garments for domestic market
and garments for export market is illustrated in the following
chart:
Composition of Demand for Fabric from Garment Sector
Fabric Sector in Bangladesh during 1995-96
Domestic Export
Million Meters 20
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
The above chart indicates that about 82% of the fabric
imported is consumed in the production of garments for export,
while the balance 18%, is consumed to meet the domestic demand,
which by itself is about 30% of the requirement of domestic
market. This emphasis’s the need for investment in
textile/weaving segment in Bangladesh. After assertazzining the
need for setting-up a weaving unit, the following paras
investigate the prospects and key success factors for such
weaving mill: Yarn is the primary input to the weaving mill.
Yarn is spun in a spinning mill using spindles. Bangladesh has
about 118 spinning mills. About 25% of these mills are owned and
managed by the government. It is reported that about 45% of these
spinning mills are out dated and run at a loss. The production
of yarn in Bangladesh is reported to be about 100,000 tonnes
during 1995-96. The demand for yarn is, however, as high as
470,000 tonnes. Hence the domestic production meets only about
21% of the domestic demand for yarn. The huge deficit in
production of yarn to meet its demand in Bangladesh, is met
through imports. Bangladesh sources its requirement of yarn
mainly from countries like India. Pakistan apart from China,
Korea, Singapore, Thailand, USA, Canada, Egypt, etc. It is
estimated that about 116 additional spinning units with a
capacity of 25,000 spindles each are required to meet the demand-
supply gap for yarn
21
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
Gro Growth in
wth
in Monthly
Mon Totals
thl
y
Tot
als
WOVEN KNIT TOTAL WOVEN KNIT TOTAL
To Mon Tot Mon
Tot Mon ta thl al thl Tot Mon Tot Mo Tota Mon
al thl l y y al thl al nt l thl
y y hl y
y
1,2 103 20 17. 1,4 120 36, 3,0 10, 88 46,7 3,8
199 40. .37 4. 05 45. .42 053 04. 663 8. 17.4 93.
2- 48 54 02 .88 49 .56 63 4 12
93
1,2 107 26 22. 1,5 129 7.6 34, 2,8 10, 90 45,1 3,7 -3.32%
199 91. .64 4. 01 55. .65 7% 351 62. 815 1. 66.0 63.
3- 65 14 79 .00 58 .00 25 0 83
94
1,8 152 39 32. 2,2 185 43. 47, 3,9 15, 1, 62,5 5,2 38.40%
199 35. .92 3. 77 28. .7 23% 210 34. 301 27 11.9 09.
4- 09 26 35 .00 17 .90 5. 0 33
95 16
1,9 162 59 49. 2,5 212 14. 48, 4,0 23, 1, 72,0 6,0 15.19%
199 48. .4 8. 86 47. .26 31% 820 68. 185 93 05.4 00.
5- 81 32 13 .04 34 .45 2. 9 46
96 12
2,2 186 76 63. 3,0 250 17. 53, 4,4 27, 2, 80,9 6,7 12.47%
199 37. .5 3. 61 01. .1 83% 450 54. 536 29 86.4 48.
6- 95 3 25 .33 19 .07 4. 0 87
97 67
2,8 237 93 78. 3,7 315 26. 65, 5,4 32, 2, 98,1 8,1 21.25%
199 44. .04 7. 13 81. .16 01% 590 65. 604 71 94.3 82.
7- 43 51 94 .00 83 .37 7. 7 86
98 03
22
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
199 561 280 17 88. 738 369 17. 12, 6,0 6,4 3, 18,6 9,3 13.96%
8- .54 .77 7. 61 .75 .38 20% 186 93. 64. 23 50.0 25.
99( 21 .00 00 00 2. 0 00
JUL 00
Y-
AUG
UST
)
Source: Bangladesh
Exports Promotion
Bureau (EPB)
23
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
COUNTRY
24
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
SPAIN 32.26 10.75 43.01 1.14%
SWEDEN 31.34 14.63 45.97 1.22%
UK 226.33 144.78 371.11 9.81%
OTHERS 58.66 21.89 80.55 2.13%
TOTAL 2,844. 937.51 3,781. 100.00
43 94 %
Source: Export Promotion Bureaus (EPB)
Table 5: Top Five European Destinations for Bangladesh Apparel (July
1997- May 1998)
VALUE
RANK COUNTRIES
(Millio
ns, $)
1 Germany 434.77
2 United Kingdom 343.89
3 France 305.72
4 Netherlands 183.63
5 Italy 195.82
25
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
year after year except some of the year. Strike, layout, shutdown
of company, political problem, economic problem, inflation etc.
are the prime cause of decreasing export in this important
sector. But above it, Readymade Garments Industries is the
leading sector in export sector.
Year Export (in US $ million)
Percentage change
1991 – 92 624.16
32.49
1992 – 93 866.82
38.88
1993 – 94 1182.57
36.43
1994 – 95 1445.02
22.19
1995 – 96 1555.79
7.67
1996 – 97 2228.35
43.47
1997 – 98 2547.13
14.11
1998 – 99 3001.25
17.83
1999 – 00 3781.94
26.01
2000 – 01 4019.98
6.29
2001 - 02 4349.41
8.19
2002 – 03 4859.83
11.74
2003 – 04 4583.75
5.68
2004 – 05 4912.12
7.21
2005 – 06 5686.09
15.83
Year Export by the garments industries (in US $ million)
26
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
27
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
perennial problem of hartals (nationwide general strikes) called
upon and enforced by the opposition political parties to protest
government policies. Although, in a major concession to the
apparel exporters, the leader of the main opposition party had
declared that the garment industry would be exempt from such
hartals, in practice the situation is more complex. On the
ground, the firms cannot take chances to send their products on
the road for fear that these will be attacked. The psychological
impact of these events on the existing and potential buyers
cannot be overstated. Buyers in the global garment markets remain
highly sensitive to the risks of unfulfilled orders. The image of
Bangladesh as a somewhat unpredictable supply source may have
been strengthened due to the floods, as the floods received
considerable world media attention and by the violent political
unrest that spills over in the streets of urban areas. In the
early months of 1999, it has gradually become apparent that there
may have been a substantial reduction in new orders received by
Bangladeshi manufacturers as a result of these problems and also
due to increased competition from the East Asian manufacturers
whose currencies have been severely devalued.Historically,
apparel exports from Bangladesh have grown at an annual rate of
more than twenty percent, roughly doubling every three years. In
1996-1997 the exports in gross terms equaled three billion
dollars. At this rate, these exports could potentially reach six
billion dollars by the year 2000 and possibly exceed ten billion
dollars in the not too distant future. However, in the year 2004,
the Multi-Fiber Arrangement (MFA) quotas will end, ushering in a
globally competitive market for clothing products. One of the
most important factors responsible for the success of this
industry has been dynamic entrepreneurship. In fact, we believe
the garment entrepreneurs should receive a national award for
their creative initiatives in overcoming the crises during this
period. The industry presents a model that entrepreneurs in other
sectors could emulate with benefit. The many hurdles the industry
28
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
overcame in 1998 include the floods, the shocks from the most
severe economic collapse and currency devaluation in East Asia
economies in recent history, and other domestic crises.
Strategies pursued by the industry in 1998 include the following:
the decision to hold monthly meetings between BGMEA officials and
leaders of the labor unions in the industry; efforts to implement
the child labor agreement of 1995; hiring a high-profile American
politician to lobby for the industry in Washington D.C.; and
asking the U.S. government to increase quotas for apparel made in
Bangladesh by thirty percent to reward the progress made in
reducing the use of child labor in the garment factories.
Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA); Author's
calculations of monthly averages and growth factors. What
implications does the success of the apparel exports have for the
economy of Bangladesh? The positive impacts are considerable and
widespread. For several years now, apparel exports have been the
largest manufacturing industry, and also the biggest source of
foreign exchange earnings. It may be a "soft goods" industry but
nevertheless it has created positive changes in the economy and
society by creating employment and income for poor women workers
and by bringing in foreign exchange for the country. In terms of
gross foreign exchange receipts, in the most recent period for
which we have data (July 1997- May 1998) export of readymade
garments earned $3392.45 billion or 73.18 percent of the total
export earnings of Bangladesh. The share of apparel products in
total exports has steadily risen for several years. In both
absolute and relative terms, the industry dominates the modern
economy of Bangladesh. In addition, the positive sociological,
demographic, political and economic impact of 1.5 million workers
employed in the manufacturing sector is huge. This is especially
true since ninety percent of these workers are women, many of
whom have migrated from the countryside in search of a life free
of poverty. The forward and backward linkage industries and
services such as textiles, accessories, transportation, and
29
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
packaging and the private sector in general have also been
significant beneficiaries. The government has gained tax
revenues, and the foreign investors to a large extent have been
exposed to Bangladesh as a result of the success of garment
exports. However, the biggest winner has been the private
entrepreneur in Bangladesh. Entrepreneurship is alive and well in
Bangladesh. The sustained success of apparel exports underscores
this point. The Future of Garment Exports and the Economy of
Bangladesh The growth rate in overall exports from Bangladesh
peaked in 1994-1995 at 40 percent a year. However, export growth
has remained strong. Currently, the garment exports alone bring
in close to four billion dollars in gross terms. The imports of
fabrics and related intermediate goods account for $2.3 billion
resulting in net earnings of approximately $1.7 billion. The
garment and knitwear exports accounted for the bulk of these
exports. The knitwear sector has been especially dynamic in
recent years. Given the fact that the market for knitwear exports
is unprotected by quotas, this bodes well for the post MFA future
of the industry. Bangladesh apparel exports can now point to a
proven track record of successfully competing in the global
competitive environment. Unfortunately, other potentially
promising exports from Bangladesh- leather, jute goods, frozen
foods - have not fared as well over this period. This has
accentuated the already narrow export base of the country and is
a matter of concern for policymakers. The excessive dependence of
the economy on the garment sector for foreign exchange earnings
and export growth demands policies that would diversify the
export base of the economy. What can be said about the future
performance of the apparel export industry in Bangladesh? What
are the risks for exports of Bangladeshi apparel? First, supply
shocks such as the debilitating floods of 1998 that shaved off
several percentage points from the expected GDP growth this year
and caused widespread disruption in production and transportation
can never be accurately anticipated. The other major crisis the
30
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
industry had to deal with in 1998 was external and once again
hardly anticipated. We refer to the East Asian economic debacle
of 1997-1998. The financial panic and the subsequent economic
meltdown that afflicted several economies in the East Asia -
Malaysia, Indonesia, Thailand, Philippines and South Korea-
certainly have been a restraining element in the economic
performance of the regional economies. What are the links between
the East Asian economies and garment exports from Bangladesh?
There are several avenues by which negative economic shocks from
these emerging economies can impact this export industry in
Bangladesh. First, several of these nations are also big apparel
exporters in same markets to which Bangladesh exports apparel. A
steep depreciation in their currency makes their products more
competitive in both the open and the quota-protected apparel
markets. In the markets protected by quotas, such a development
would be a deflationary force pulling down the unit prices and
the profit margins for Bangladesh apparel exporters. Second,
given the crunch, these economies would try to export themselves
out of their severe recession. In the recent crisis, these
regional and international forces have greatly increased
competition for Bangladesh exports. Third, to help them recover
from their downturn, the U.S. government and others have already
relaxed quota restrictions on exports from the worst affected
economies, making the playing field more difficult for
Bangladeshi exporters. Fourth, prior to this crisis, some of
these nations were potentially big investors in Bangladesh in the
textile and infrastructure projects. Their economic troubles have
meant a dramatic scaling back in their direct investments in
Bangladesh. On the other hand, partly as a result of the East
Asian economic debacle, there was a massive return of Bangladeshi
workers from this region that has swelled the urban labor force
pool from which garment factories recruit their workers. Second,
when some of these economies weakened, their ability to compete
was impaired from the economic or political collapse. This could
31
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
mean new opportunities for those competitors who were unaffected
by the economic crisis. Finally, Bangladesh has tried to take
advantage of the crises by demanding from the U.S. equal quota
concessions, pointing to its efforts in reducing the underage
worker problem in the apparel factories. In our view, the biggest
threat to apparel exports in Bangladesh comes from the financial
sector. Although we do not anticipate a financial panic similar
to the Asian crisis since the influx of short-term foreign
investment (hot money) and borrowing by the private and public
sector has been rather limited in Bangladesh, there are some
similarities. One common element that we share with these
affected economies is a weak banking sector with little
transparency or central bank control. Elements of crony
capitalism and moral hazard are certainly present in Bangladesh,
especially in the nationalized banking sector and in credit
markets. According to the World Bank-Asian Development Bank
report, the financial sector in Bangladesh remains fragile with
33 percent of the portfolios of the NCB's and domestic private
banks in the non-performing category. Notwithstanding the fifty
billion taka of taxpayer money that was used to re-capitalize the
nationalized commercial banks (NCBs) in the early 1990s, the
system-wide capital inadequacy today is estimated to be taka 133
billion. This situation could cause the entire banking system to
collapse as a result of a large external shock or even from a
domestic shock such as a run on a major financial institution.
One important lesson from the East Asian crisis is that moral
hazard and the resulting financial panic can be very costly for
an economy, even when the fundamentals are sound. Without
fundamental reforms in the banking sector, the financial sector
in Bangladesh remains susceptible to a financial panic where a
speculative price bubble crashing in the real estate sector or
elsewhere in the economy could start a systemic self-fulfilling
crisis. Such a collapse could seriously impact apparel exports,
which are critically dependent on a healthy banking system for
32
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
the institutional support in exports and for short-term
financing.Other potential hazards include an overvaluation of the
taka compared to the currency of its competitors. Despite the
repeated devaluation in the recent past, according to the World
Bank, the taka remains overvalued in real terms. This could
undermine the long- term competitiveness of the industry.
Finally, in the year 2004, under the Uruguay Round Agreement on
Textiles and Clothing, MFA quotas will be phased out. Bangladesh
will lose its preferential access to its most important markets
and will have to compete with India, China and other apparel
exporters in a truly global competitive environment. Many apparel
firms in Bangladesh are not ready for this change, although the
more efficient larger firms that have diversified their products
and markets are expected to do well in the post MFA world.
Finally, we anticipate that the biggest source of problems for
the apparel export industry is likely to be domestic, not
external. The politicians could seriously damage this sector by
creating instability and attempting to achieve their goals by
violent means in the streets instead of the parliament. The
bankers, the bureaucrats, and the politicians remain a source of
threat. In their attempt to further extract rent from this
sector, they could undermine the long-term viability of this
industry. The failure of the law enforcement forces to control
the menace of mastans and toll collectors may create a climate
that debilitates commerce and production in the economy. Labor
disturbances and frequent disruptions in the Chittagong port also
remain a source of concern to exporters in general. Increased
contacts between factory owners and the union leadership would
help the industry. Garment workers remain one of the hardest-
working segments of the labor force in Bangladesh. The working
conditions and benefits for workers should improve as the
industry matures and human capital increases. In the long run,
this is the best defense against labor union agitation. Investing
in worker training and in improved working conditions would
33
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
certainly enhance productivity. The apparel factory owners must
be proactive instead of reactive on this important issue.
CHAPTER IV
34
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
Quddus (1996) present an overall analysis of the industry to
evaluate its potential as a catalyst for the development of the
rest of the Bangladesh economy.ix
Many economist have wrote about garment sector but I have
observed three presentation papers ( Dr.Khaled Nadvi, Dr.Salma
Chaudhuri Zohir and Dr.Naila Kabeer.) and one seminar paper (Ms
Simeen Mahmud).Dr. Nadvi’s paper deals with the nature of current
challenges for Bangladesh in the global garment industry and
discusses some of the salient observations from the trade data
analysis illuminating how Bangladesh’s position in the global
garment trade has changed over time. Dr. Salma Chaudhuri Zohir
provided details on findings from Bangladesh garment sector firm
surveys and Dr. Kabir presented some preliminary evidences from
the garment and non-garment workers surveys conducted in Dhaka.
35
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
Dr.Nadvi then tries to map Bangladesh’s position in the
global garment industry by comparing the changes in Bangladesh’s
unit price of exports and market access with those of her major
actual and potential competitors in the EU market. A mixed story
emerged form his analysis. Bangladesh has significantly increased
its market share during the last decade. But the discomforting
feature is that in most items studied Bangladesh has seen its
unit values decline more or as rapidly over time as those of its
competitors. In this context he cited the example of Vietnam
whose share in the cotton shirt sector in the EU market has gone
up from less than 0.5% in 1990 to 3.7% in 1999 and at the same
time it’s unit value has risen by an average of 6.8% a year
during the 1990s. This suggests significant improvements for
Vietnam which is indicative of some productivity gains. The
decline in Unit value in Bangladesh can be an indicative of the
lowering labor cost and even with large reserve army of labor
there are limits to which labor cost can be reduced. Thus the
challenge at the firm level for Bangladesh to upgrade is critical
if it is to sustain its market share in the long run.
36
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
She suggested that the firms in Bangladesh are constantly
adapting themselves to the changing demands of the market. They
are responding to the buyers demand in terms of upgrading
products, upgrading plants and compliance with standards. She
then discussed some of the major future challenges for the
industry and summarized her presentation with the following
observations: Medium and large firm will survive and the small
firm will die. MFA phase out will affect woven garments in both
USA and EU. Women are mainly employed in woven and hence are more
at risk of being unemployed than men. Knitwear and sweater will
survive if GSP continues. Duty free access to USA and EU is
essential for the survival of woven RMG. Rules of Origin should
be carefully considered. Firms need to seek direct orders from
the retailers. We should go for lower and medium price products.
To survive in future the garment industry has to maintain price
competitiveness and reduce the lead-time. Measures must be taken
to avoid balance of payment crisis and mass unemployment of
women. FDI in the garment industry should be welcomed Dr. Naila
Kabeer undertakes a comparison of the condition of the female
workers of RMG sector and that of a non-RMG sector in Bangladesh.
The research was conducted among both types of female workers
living in the same place. Some of the initial findings are as
follows: Although both the RMG and non- RMG female workers come
from the similar social background, the RMG workers are
financially better off than the non-RMG workers. RMG workers
mainly come from moderately poor families while majority of the
non- RMG female workers are coming from extremely poor
families .RMG workers migrate with their friends not with their
close relatives, whereas the non-RMG female workers migrate with
their close relatives and they stay with their families.
Compared to the non RMG female workers the RMG workers have
better education and better access to health care facilities. The
RMG workers perceive themselves to be temporary migrants to the
city and therefore they have higher savings and they send
37
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
remittance to their family members in the villages to a large
extent. Female RMG workers face greater problems on their way to
the work place. Most of the RMG workers think the working hours
are increasing day by day. Involvement in trade union among the
female RMG workers is very limited RMG workers cope with bad
situation by cutting their expenses while the non- RMG workers
cope by borrowing.
38
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
textile secretary informed the participants that the government
is in the process of setting up a training institute where
workers and managers of both RMG and textile sector will be
trained. He called for the active participation of BGMEA and BTMA
in this regard. Ms Simeen Mahmud have focused on policy issues
regarding the RMG sector of Bangladesh in the context of the
changed global scenario after 2005. In the one hand, the policy
makers got to know the research findings and recommendations made
by different stakeholders and on the other hand they informed the
participants about the approach and the initiative of the Govt.
regarding the challenges that lies ahead of the growth and
sustainability of the RMG sector in Bangladesh.
39
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
job as higher value products require higher skill. At this point
Dr. Salma C. Zohir mentioned that during the survey of factories
she found that even with the present level of skill, workers are
capable of producing quality products and thus moving to high
quality products is very much feasible. trade union should be
permitted in the RMG sector. However unholy alliance of trade
unions with the non- trade union people has to be stopped.
Democratic trade union laws have to be implemented. Dr. Rehman
Sobhan suggested that workers might be given equity share in
their companies to ensure that they benefit properly from the
value chain. At this point some discussants also mentioned that
too much of emphasize on the distribution may indeed harm the
interest of the industry. They argued that if competition is
ensured by say, allowing FDI, the condition of the workers will
improve automatically as the market will drive their wages up.
40
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
low skilled labour is not really cheap if we consider the low
level of productivity of those workers. Dr.Zaidi Satar of World
Bank argued that we have to ensure that the producers get the
inputs at the world price during the free trade environment of
post MFA era. He decries the tendency of linking RMG with textile
at the excuse of promoting backward linkage and called for
independent formulation of policies for the RMG sector. He gave
the example of Sri Lanka in this respect where the degree of
backward linkage is almost as it is in Bangladesh but the RMG
producers get textile at zero percent duty. Improvement of the
infrastructure and the need for better shipment facilities also
drew considerable attention. These steps were considered
necessary for Bangladeshi exporters to move at FoB level instead
of the existing CM/CMT level.
41
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
they have to come under strict scrutiny on the basis of the
Agreement on Textile and Clothing (ATC). ATC does not allow for
subsidization of primary textile, which China is currently
practicing. It was also mentioned that the US has reserved some
safeguard against Chinese flooding of market after 2005. This may
provide a certain level of protection to our export also.
42
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
-1
p1 q1 / (p1 q1 + p2 q2) = (1 + p2 q2 / p1 q1)
-
= ( 1 + ( p1 f (p1 / p2) /p2)
1 -1
) )
= g ( p 1 / p2 ) ---------------
---------------------------------------------(3)
which indicates that country 1’s share of the market in question
will remain constant except as p1/p2 varies. This establishes the
validity of the constant-share norm and suggests that the
difference between export growths may be attributed to price
changes. The discrepancy between the constant-share norm and
actual performance has been labeled the competitiveness effect.
∑i V ij = V . j ---------------------------------------- ( 4)
43
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
and similarly for??period 2. in addition??the value of A’s
∑i V ij = V . j ---------------------------------------- ( 4)
∑i V ij = V . j ---------------------------------------- ( 4)
period 1 is given by
EMBED Equation.3 -------------------
----------------- --------- (5) EMBED Equation.3 EMBED
-
Equation.3 ?? The application of CMS
∑i V ij = V . j ---------------------------------------- ( 4)
44
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
imilarly for??period 2. in addition??the value of A’s exports in
period 1 is given by
EMBED Equation.3 -------------------
----------------- --------- (5) EMBED Equation.3 EMBED
-
Equation.3 ?? The application of CMS
∑i V ij = V . j ---------------------------------------- ( 4)
∑i V ij = V . j ---------------------------------------- ( 4)
-------------------------- ( 4)
--------------------------------- --------- (5) EMBED Equation.3
-
EMBED Equation.3 ?? The application
of CMS model will depend on the nature of the market that we have
in mind when writing (1). At first level of analysis, n.3
∑j V ij =Vi. ∑i V ij = V . j -----------------------------
----------- ( 4)
45
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
ation of CMS model will depend on the nature of the market that
we have in mind when writing (1). At first level of analysis, n.3
∑j V ij =Vi. ∑i V ij = V . j -----------------------------
----------- ( 4)
of the market that we have in mind when writing (1). At first
level of analysis, n.3 ∑j V ij =Vi. ∑i V ij = V . j -----
----------------------------------- ( 4)
f the market that we have in mind when writing (1). At first
level of analysis, n.3 ∑j V ij =Vi. ∑i V ij = V . j -----
----------------------------------- ( 4)
iting (1). At first level of analysis, n.3 ∑j V ij =Vi.
∑i V ij = V . j ---------------------------------------- ( 4)
∑i V ij = V . j ---------------------------------------- ( 4)
∑i ∑j V ij = ∑i V i . = ∑j V . j = V .. --------------------
46
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
V .. – V .. = rV .. + (V .. – V .. –rV .. ) ----
---------------------------------------------(6)
V •j ′ - V• j = r j V. j + ( V. j - V. j - rj V. j ) -----------
--------------------------------(7)
V′ • • - V• • = ∑j r j V. j + ∑j ( V. - V. j - r j V. j )
j
=r V r V ..+ ∑j ( r j- r) V. j + ∑j (V. j -
(a ) (b )
V. j - r j V. j ) -------------(8)
(c )
47
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
Thus if world import in market j increased by more than
the world average ( r j − r ) will be positive. Accordingly the term
V .. − V .. ≡ ∑ ∑ r ij V ij + ∑ ∑ (V ij − V ij − r ij V ij )
i j i j
≡ rV .. + ∑ (r i − r )V i . + ∑ ∑ (r ij _ r i )V ij
(a ) i (b )
i j (c )
+ ∑ ∑ (V ij − V ij − r ijV ij ) -------------------------
i j (d )
-------------------------------(11)
Identity (11) re[presents a “three-level” analysis in which the
increase in A’s exports is broken into parts attributed (a)
the general rise in world demand; (b) the commodity composition
of A’s exports; (c) the market distribution of A’s exports; and
(d) a residual reflecting the difference between the actual
export growth and the growth that would have occurred if A had
maintained its share of the exports of each commodity to each
company.The commodity composition term in identity(11) may be
interpreted in the same manner as the market distribution effect.
It would be positive if A had concentrated on the exports of
commodities whose markets were growing commodity markets.
48
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
Problems of constant market share model: The CMC model provides a
useful tool for analyzing export growth performance by allowing
achieved export growth to be separated in to commodity , market
distribution , and competitiveness effects. However, the initial
appeal of the CMS identity as a simple analytic and policy tools
is considerable blurred by fundamental problems which arise in
the basic equation (1) and (3).
-1
Equation (3) p1 q1 / (p1 q1 + p2 q2) = (1 + p2 q2 / p1 q1)
-
= ( 1 + ( p1 f (p1 / p2) /p2)
1 -1
) )
= g ( p 1 / p2 )
Assume that the change in export share be the function of
relative prices. In practice, relative price are generally used
as a measure of competitiveness. Since the competitiveness
residual results from the complex interaction of demand and
supply, it neglects such factor as: quantity improvement,
improving in servicing, shortening of waiting lines, improvement
financial arguments, and change in discriminatory non- price
policy. Secondly, what is the appropriate measure of export
shares? Obviously quantity share are required in order to satisfy
the requirement that share very directly with relative
competitiveness could lead to a decreases in export shares, given
a elasticity of substitution less than one in absolute value.
Also in the case a positive commodity(market) effect, we usually
presume that’s the country commodity exports are relatively more
skewed towards goods which are growing in the world demand. But
these cases could be equally well explained by a country’s
exports being relatively more skewed towards goods those prices
are rising relatively rapidly.
49
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
At more fundamental level, the elasticity of substitution
relation implicit in equation
q1 / q2 = f ( p1 / p2 ) and equation
-1
p1 q 1 / (p1 q1 + p2 q2) = (1 + p2 q2 / p1 q1)
-
= ( 1 + ( p1 f (p1 / p2) /p2)
1 -1
) )
= g ( p 1 / p2 )
50
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
residual results from the complex interaction of demand and
supply, it neglects such factor as: quantity improvement,
improving in servicing, shortening of waiting lines, improvement
financial arguments, and change in discriminatory non- price
policy. Secondly, what is the appropriate measure of export
shares? Obviously quantity share are required in order to satisfy
the requirement that share very directly with relative
competitiveness could lead to a decreases in export shares, given
a elasticity of substitution less than one in absolute value.
Also in the case a positive commodity(market) effect, we usually
presume that’s the country commodity exports are relatively more
skewed towards goods which are growing in the world demand. But
these cases could be equally well explained by a country’s
exports being relatively more skewed towards goods those prices
are rising relatively rapidly.
51
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
1
Rchardson,j.David “Constant- Market-Share analysis of export growth” Journal of The International
Economic, voll1 1971.pp.190-207.
52
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
Three growth factors are calculated for each commodity group
instead of four factors, namely (1) the factors of world demand
increase. (2) The factors of market distribution and (3) the
factors of international competitiveness. The results are shown
in appendix 1 and 2.
CHAPTER V
see-appendix (table-1)
53
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
performance of commodity j relative to the size of country i’s of
commodity j exporter. If the export performance ratio is two,
this suggests that the commodity j’s share in country i’s export
is twice the corresponding world share and so forth. A ratio of
more than one is taken as an indication of revealed comparative
advantage. A rise in the ratio suggests a Strengthening in terms
of revealed comparative advantage (Balassa 1965, UNIDO 1982.,
Ariff and Hill 1985). The measure yields a ratio ranging from
zero to infinity but for certain reasons large numbers Will be
unusual. An export performance ratio of more than unity is
regarded as a revealed comparative advantage, while a rise in the
ratio suggests a strengthening on the basis of Revealed
5.3. Developments:Macroeconomic
While the average GDP growth rate was 4.4 per cent per year
during the first half of the 1990s, the growth rate has
accelerated to over 5 per cent in recent years. The growth rate
is projected at 5.47 per cent in 1999/00. A notable feature of
the growth process during the 1990s is the fluctuating role of
both agriculture and industrial sectors. The average growth rate
54
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
of crop and horticulture was -0.43 per cent per annum until mid-
1990s which increased to 6.13 per cent in 1999/00. The growth in
manufacturing sharply decelerated from an average of 8.20 per
cent during the first half of the 1990s to 4.25 per cent in
1999/00. The deceleration started in 1998/99 as an aftermath of
the 1998 floods. The growth rate of construction sector has also
declined since 1997/98: from 9.48 per cent in 1997/98 to 8.92 per
cent in 1998/99 and further to 8.00 per cent in 1999/00.
FY 99 FY 00 FY 01 FY 02
a) Agriculture and
19.3 19.5 19.5 19.2
Forestry
i) Crop and
14.3 14.6 14.7 14.4
Horticulture
55
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
d) Financial
1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6
Intermediation
f) Public Administration
2.6 2.5 2.6 2.6
and Defence
56
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
Forest & related services 2.82 3.46 4.03 4.51 5.16 5.16
57
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
58
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
a) Agriculture and
19.3 19.5 19.5 19.2
Forestry
i) Crop and
14.3 14.6 14.7 14.4
Horticulture
ii) Animal
3.1 3.0 2.9 2.9
Farming
a) Mining and
1.0 1.0 1.1 1.1
Quarrying
i) Large and
11.2 11.0 11.1 11.0
Medium Scale
a) Wholesale and
13.2 13.4 13.5 13.6
Retail Trade
b) Hotel and
0.6 0.6 0.6 0.7
Restaurant
59
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
and Communication
d) Financial
1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6
Intermediation
60
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
1990/ 1991/ 1992/93 1993/94 1994/ 1995/ 1996/97 1887/98 1998/99 1999/
Investment 1.42 4.44 9.52 9.35 9.11 10.60 11.08 12.06 9.85 8.19
Private 6.07 2.57 16.69 8.87 11.21 16.17 7.70 19.73 8.46 8.52
Public ‐5.06 7.35 ‐1.13 10.19 5.46 0.40 18.25 ‐2.72 13.13 7.45
Gross domestic savings 22.21 28.03 ‐6.95 22.02 ‐10.64 3.62 34.50 26.00 11.46 11.60
Gross national savings 43.54 13.43 11.21 6.99 14.47 25.59 7.20 16.82 14.95 11.72
61
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
deceleration in recent growth of investment is a major cause of
concern: the growth rate declined from 12 per cent in 1997/98 to
10 per cent in 1998/99 and further to 8 per cent in 1999/00 at
constant 1995/96 prices.
62
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
Much of the growth in large-scale industry has been driven
by ready-made garments (RMG). Growth in the non-RMG large-scale
industry has been slow – about 4% in the 1990s. This is less than
that in the 1980s. Why is it that so few industries have managed
to duplicate the performance of the RMG sector? One question
worth exploring is whether the RMG sector, by absorbing the
domestic savings, crowded out the other industries.
There are some fronts, however, where the industry has not
been very successful. One such area is marketing. The industry
has not yet developed good marketing skills of its own and
continues to rely heavily on foreign buying houses, notably those
from India and Sri Lanka. These intermediaries capture a large
part of the margin. The scope for the industry to benefit from
devaluations is limited in such a situation. The industry should
have used the last 20 years to go deeper into the marketing
channel. The fact that foreign direct investment had not been
allowed in the industry is one possible reason for our failure to
do so. The Bangladesh Garments Manufacturers and Exporters
Association (BGMEA) is now thinking of setting up marketing
centers abroad. This is an area where public-private sector
collaboration may be required.
63
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
parts of the industry are not very efficient but are surviving
due to protection while other parts are efficient and competing
in world markets.
64
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
It was meant to compensate for duties paid on imports and
amounted to 25% of total sales value, a high amount by any
standard. The rationale for providing cash subsidies, especially
at the current scale, is weak. Import duties have gone down due
to import liberalization. If compensation is to be provided, the
amount required for various products will have to be re-
calculated, taking into account the changes in duty rates.
65
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
traditional jute-centric to the emergent RMG-centric export is
remarkable by any standard. Over the same period the country had
also to import an increasing amount of production and non-
production related commodities. Increasing exports have allowed
the country to service a large part of this growing import demand
without seriously undermining the balance of payments position of
the country and the country's debt servicing record.
Consequently, in view of the increasing degree of openness of the
Bangladesh economy, factors such as competitiveness of the
external sector, market access capacity and ability for
strengthened global integration are becoming key determinants in
terms of not only the performance of the external sector but also
the overall growth and development of the country. The present
paper traces the growth dynamics of Bangladesh's export sector
interims of a number of major correlates and looks at some of the
major challenges which are expected to impact on export sector
performance in the short and medium terms.
66
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
FY1999, was able to grow by22.6% in FY2000. The share of the
sector in total export has doubled over the last five years, form
12.0% to 22.0%. This is clearly demonstrated by Table-1
67
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
incremental export is analyzed, this growing importance is even
more clearly manifested. For every dollar of incremental export
earned by Bangladesh in FY2000 53 cents was contributed by knit-
RMG. In FY2000 other important exportable such as jute goods
(4.6%), frozen food (6.0%) and leather(3.4%) performed below the
levels achieved during recent years. As is evidence by Figure-1,
in recent years an increasing share in the incremental growth is
originating from changes in the volume index as compared to that
of the price index. This trend is a cause for major concern which
was first pointed out in IRBD1998/99 and has continued to persist
in FY2000 as well. In FY2000 the increase in unit price value
contributed only 0.5% to the growth in total exports, which was
8.3%; compared to this the increase in export volume contributed
7.8%. This would imply that the weak growth rate of prices of our
principal exports in the international markets has to be
increasingly compensated for by an ever-increasing volume of
exports. The underlying dynamics of the changes in price, volume
and value indexes is easily discernible from Figure 1. The price
trend perhaps also reflects deterioration in Bangladesh's terms
of trade in recent years. If FY1980 is taken to be the base year,
the terms of trade has come down to the level of 89.2 in FY2000.
Figure 1
68
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
69
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
Figure 2
70
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
Table 3: Dynamics of Growth of Remittance: FY1995 - FY2000
71
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
commitments for the same period in FY1999,which was $2648.5
million. Thus, commitments came down by about 44.0% in FY2000.
This decrease was mainly due to drastic fall in commitments for
food and commodity aid. However, it is to be noted that project
aid commitments also came down significantly over
72
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
export and in order to stimulate export sector diversification in
the country. The taka was devalued eighteen times during the
tenure of the present government - twice during FY2000. Export
sector has also received substantial amount of financial help in
the form of subsidies and other forms of assistance. Such
assistance amounted to Tk. 635.0 Core ($131.3 million) in FY2000
alone. Budget FY2001 also makes an allocation of another $126.4
million towards this. The budget also provides for general
reduction in the duties on basic raw materials (5% on average)
and intermediates and semi-finished goods (15% on average) with a
view to stimulate export-oriented investment in the economy.
Duties on various raw materials used in the textiles, leather,
footwear and some other export-oriented industries have also been
brought down in the budget for FY2001.
The budget provides for a number of incentives to stimulate
non-traditional exports. To promote export-oriented agro-
processing industrialization duty rates on machinery, spare
parts, raw materials and packaging materials of agro-processing
industries have been substantially reduced. To encourage export-
oriented activities in the jeweler industries, the import quota
of gold has been doubled and duty rate reduced. A lump allocation
equivalent to Tk. 150 million has been kept with a view to
encourage training of programmers and for promoting Bangladesh's
emerging IT sector. It is becoming increasingly evident that
technology in the RMG sector is becoming a key determinant of
Bangladesh's continued competitiveness in the global apparels
market. Bangladesh's low wage based comparative advantage needs
to be translated into productivity based competitive advantage
and it is here that technology comes to play a crucial role.
Although zero-tariff access of capital machineries and other
incentives are welcome initiatives of GOB in this respect, more
vigorous efforts and comprehensive approach are required. An
important initiative of budget FY2001 is the decision to allocate
Tk. 1.0 billion for establishing an Equity Development Fund in
73
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
the Bangladesh Bank with the objective of promoting investment in
software export and agro-processing industries. The fund will be
invested in financially viable software, food processing and
agro-processing activities; maximum investment from this fund
will be limited to 25% of the equity. It is hoped that this
dedicated fund will give a boost to two sectors which appear to
have high export potentials. It needs to be appreciated and given
due recognition that the fiscal, financial and institutional
incentives provided to the export sector and export-oriented
activities in Bangladesh in the recent past have played an
important role in ensuring the 12% average real growth rate of
the sector in the 1990s. However, lack of adequate infrastructure
facilities, absence of infusion of technology in export-oriented
sectors and weakness in the management of the sector have
severely constrained the sector’s performance and its move
towards a diversified base. Major concerns continue to severely
constrain realization of many of the potential opportunities
which globalization offers to Bangladesh. If Bangladesh fails to
address these concerns, needless to say, the attendant risks will
became originating from globalization even more acute.
74
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
diversification within the RMG sector itself. Till now any
discernible shift favouring higher value-added fashionable
product categories in the RMG market is not visible. As a result
potential market opportunities continue to remain unaccessed. In
view of the growing RMG-centric export base in Bangladesh, the
growth dynamics of the sector needs to be put under close
scrutiny. Any deceleration in the performance of this particular
sector severely tests the efficacy of Bangladesh's export-led
growth strategy. As quotas increase across countries in the run
up to the year 2005 (MFA quota will increase at the rate of 16%,
25% and 27% over the first three stages of MFA phase out), a
process of restructuring of the global RMG market is expected to
gradually evolve where price competitiveness and quality aspects
will predominantly dictate the market behaviour. The slow-down in
the growth of woven-RMG in FY2000 should serve as a wake up call
specially in view of (a) the upcoming third phase of the
integration of Multi-Fibre Arrangement (MFA) into the Agreement
on Textiles and Clothing in WTO (ATC) and its potential
consequences for Bangladesh's apparels sector; (b) China's entry
into the WTO; (c) structural shifts in sourcing of apparels by
USA following establishment of NAFTA; (d) the recently enacted
Trade and Development Act of 2000 in USA which provides zero
tariff and quota-free access to US markets to 72 African and
Caribbean Basin countries and (e) heightened competition in the
EU market in view of granting of quota-free access to
Bangladesh's major competitors in 2005.
75
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
performance of some of the competitors including Sri Lanka,
China, India and Pakistan. The rising importance of knit-RMG,
contributing an increasing share in both net exports and
incremental exports, needs to be given special attention. The
local value addition in the knit- RMG sector varies from 50% to
60%, which is double the current level in the woven-RMG sector.
It is of importance to note that Bangladesh's knit-RMG sector was
able to demonstrate a quite robust performance in recent years
within the quota-free environment in the EU. However, one of the
underlying factors contributing to this success is the fact that,
major competitors of Bangladesh in the EU market such as India
and Pakistan are compelled to operate under quota restrictions.
Such quotas will be eliminated as of January 1, 2005. In view of
the promise of this particular sector, specially in the context
of possible deceleration in the growth of woven-RMG exports, it
is of critical importance that a comprehensive policy package be
developed in order to stimulate the competitive strength of the
export-oriented knit-RMG sector of the country. Over the recent
years, imports of capital machineries for textile industries have
registered significant growth, testifying to some degree of
backward linkage activity taking place in the export-oriented
apparels sector. A comprehensive strategy to stimulate such
backward linkage activities ought to be designed and implemented
on an urgent basis. This is essential on four counts: (a) to face
the challenges of post-MFA regime; (b) to comply with stringent
rules of origin requirement for accessing GSP; (c) to increase
local value addition and (d) to create employment opportunities
within the country. Of course a strategy for developing the
backward linkage industries must of necessity take into
cognizance the dynamic comparative advantage of Bangladesh in a
fast changing global market.
76
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
products to US markets from 72 countries under the Africa Growth
and Opportunity Act and the US Caribbean Basin Trade Partnership
Act. The benefits under the Act is to be offered from October 1,
2000 and will continue till September 30, 2008. The bill, subject
to fulfillment of certain conditional ties, provides the
aforementioned countries, in effect, a NAFTA - parity. Since a
number of the beneficiary countries, specially some of the
Caribbean countries are major textile exporters to the US market
and compete with Bangladesh in some of the important product
categories, Bangladesh will need to carefully study and monitor
the implications of this Act in terms of the future export
performance of the country's RMG sector in the US market.
77
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
Voices are being raised in many LDCs as to the justification of
any new round of trade negotiations under the WTO at a time when
most of the promises favouring the LDCs during the Uruguay Round
(Special and Differential status, technical assistance,
strengthening of the aid-trade nexus, greater market access,
technology transfer etc.) are yet to be implemented. As leader of
the LDCs
78
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
be carefully studied and monitored by Bangladesh in order to
guarantee maximum advantage for the LDCs.
79
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
draw upon the best available professional resources in the
country as well as draw in external expertise in selected areas.
Priority should be given to preparing a joint action agenda with
other LDCs which need to be pursued in any future round of trade
negotiations. This task is of immediate importance also in view
of the forthcoming Third LDCs Conference which is to be held in
Brussels in May, 2001.
80
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
Million Dolla ( Corer
Taka)
81
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
earning are leather (2.67%), Jute goods (11.46%) frozen food
(8.38), raw jute (7.35%), chemical products (31.58), petroleum by
products (33.56%).
Source-Bangladesh bank
82
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
83
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
891.20
84
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
Source-Bangladesh bank
85
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
share of primary and manufactured commodities from FY 1982-93
to 1997-98 showing values both in US dollar and Bangladesh Taka
is given below.
86
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
)
38081.06 8867.33 29213.73
87
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
) )
158790.8 19461.6 139329.2
7 2
1996-97 (4418.28 (526.43) 11.91 (3891.85 88.09
) )
188130.4 22415.58 165714.8
2 4
1997-98 (5161.20 (501.93) 9.73 (4659.27 90.27
) )
234163.7 22772.55 211391.2
5 0
Source-Bangladesh bank
88
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
Japan, Canada, Hong Kong, India, Spain, China, Sweden, Pakistan,
Denmark, Australia, Iran, UAE & Singapore.
89
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
5
Netherlands (85.80 (104.90 (136.66 (183.22 (208.59 (235.83)
) ) ) ) )
10699.61
3333.1 4180.19 5481.26 7493.86 8881.88
2
Italy (137.4 (170.61 (211.26 (207.10 (203.62 (270.24)
0) ) ) ) )
12260.79
5337.8 6798.63 8473.70 8470.38 8670.14
6
Japan (53.31 (61.02) (99.65) (120.80 (114.05 (112.31)
) ) )
5095.50
2071.0 2431.79 3997.14 4940.65 4856.44
9
Hongkong (51.45 (72.10) (107.07 (104.46 (109.18 (87.25)
) ) ) )
3958.53
1998.8 2873.07 4294.53 4272.50 4648.72
2
Canada (44.38 (57.23) (69.38) (69.09) (69.12) (106.88)
)
4849.15
1724.2 2280.42 2782.91 2825.72 2943.04
3
(8.54) (13.22) (45.29) (26.38) (55.59) (48.63)
China 2206.34
331.64 526.82 1816.38 1078.81 2366.79
90
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
)
2750.78
975.22 1177.90 2132.06 2402.52 2342.28
2975.36
382.59 669.72 1811.60 2964.23 1969.43
1290.32
91
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
92
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
93
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
94
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
95
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
)63221.1
96
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
97
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
5.3.10. Economic Trends
ACCORDING to recent media reports, Bangladesh stood tall with 11.88 per cent export growth
until May 2009 amid tumbling shipments from major Asian countries because of the lingering
global financial recession. As recorded in official data, goods worth US$14.14 billion were
exported by the country between July 2008 and May 2009, compared to US$12.63 billion during
the same period of last year. India, China, Pakistan, Malaysia, Vietnam and Thailand were
struggling to stop the free fall in export shipments as the global recession cut demand of goods in
both sides of the Atlantic. China’s export fell by a record margin in May. Exports tumbled 26.4
per cent from a year earlier, exceeding previous record drop in February of 25.7 per cent. The
growth in India’s merchandise exports dipped to 12.9 per cent for May 2009. Pakistan’s exports
also came down by 5.14 per cent during the same period.
Exporters and trade experts attribute Bangladesh’s export success to the ‘competitiveness’ of the
country’s readymade garment sector and availability of cheap labour, although exports of frozen
food, leather and jute fell. Garment manufacturers produced lower-end products whose demand
did not fall significantly in global markets. Remaining competitive in these days of difficulties
since the quota system was withdrawn and the ongoing lingering economic slide worldwide is
rewarding for Bangladesh. There are other factors for Bangladesh remaining tall, Better delivery,
lower price and sewing quality kept Bangladesh still high and attractive when its rival countries
had to pump in billions of dollars in stimulus packages to halt the export slide. Bangladesh would
have to keep up the trend in the coming days for continuing its hold on the garment export
markets to regain the accelerated export growth rate.
98
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
99
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
0.38 per cent while the volume index increased by 8.03 per cent
over the same period in 1998/99. This indicates that export
volume has to increasingly compensate for slow growth in prices
of the country's exports in increasing export earnings. The
recent deterioration of the country's terms of trade is also
noteworthy: compared to 1997/98, the terms of trade declined by
4.6 per cent in 1998/99 and further 8.2 per cent in 1999/00.
Import Performance
The LCs settled during the period suggest 0.8 per cent
increase in the value of imports. The total value of outstanding
LCs at the end of January 2000 is US $ 2380 million. The above
trends indicate that import demand is likely to pick up during
the rest of the period of the current fiscal year.
Workers Remittances
100
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
Major Concerns:
101
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
sustainability of the growth process. The success of
macroeconomic management is ultimately judged by its impact on
the growth process and its capability to promote social goals.
There seems to exist a broad consensus that a growth rate of 5-6
per cent is not an indicator of satisfactory performance of the
economy. At present, the Bangladesh economy has reached a stage
that could very well yield a growth rate of 7 per cent and above
on a sustained basis, provided `right' policies are in place.
102
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
`second generation' of reforms in the context of problems and
opportunities for growth in the coming decade. These reforms
should aim to acquire technological knowledge and innovations in
selected areas and encourage the entrepreneurs to exploit full
opportunities of the knowledge-based global economy.
Gone are the days of Adam Smith, David Ricardo and Karl Marx
when services were viewed as unproductive and the mention of
trade in services was hardly found in economics literature.
However, things have changed since then. Nowadays, services are
recognized to constitute an important sector of the economy no
less than the agriculture or industry. Not only do services
contribute significantly towards GDP and employment in both
developed and developing countries, the use of new technologies
has made many services storable, transportable and consequently,
tradable. Lately, a large proportion of the world economic
Transactions are taking place in service trade. Again, services
may be classified as those consumed directly and those used as
intermediate inputs. These intermediate services, also known as
'producer services' play a much more complex and important role
in the development process than is suggested by their direct
contribution to gross domestic product (GDP) and employment-
creation. This is reflected in the inter-linkages between
services and the rest of the economy. Production and export in
agriculture, industry and the service sectors require many
services
103
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
to countries belonging to the European Union (EU) and 40% went to
the United States and Canada10. Currently, Bangladesh enjoys
preferential access in these markets. The removal of Multi-Fiber
Agreement (MFA) quotas in the year 2004 under the Uruguay Round
Agreement on Textiles and Clothing (ATC) will result in
Bangladesh’s losing its preferential access in the EU and
American markets11. Consequently, Bangladesh will be compelled to
compete with other low-cost RMG-exporting countries of Asia and
elsewhere. So the continuation of Bangladesh's present success in
RMG exports will depend on her ability to reduce costs and
improve the quality of output. In the preceding sections, we have
seen the crucial role of services in manufacturing production. In
this section we examine the role of services in the RMG industry,
particularly. The RMG manufacturers are scattered all over
Bangladesh. But those who manufacture RMG for exports only are
mainly located in Dhaka and Chittagong. There are about 2,600 RMG
manufacturers registered with the Bangladesh Garment
Manufacturers' and Exporters' Association (BGMEA). Time and other
constraints did not permit us to contact more than 100 RMG
manufacturers. But because of general aversion to disclose
business information to outsiders, we were able to collect
information only from 83 RMG manufacturers. Again, information
from some RMG manufacturers was not comprehensive. So we finally
settled for 74 RMG manufacturing units to carry out our analysis.
Out of these 74 RMG manufacturing firms,36 are located in Dhaka
and 38 in Chittagong. Of the 38 RMG manufacturing units selected
from Chittagong, 8 are located in the Chittagong Export
Processing Zone (CEPZ) and the rest are situated in the city and
its surrounding areas. Of the 74 firms under study, 50 belong to
an 'average group' employing up to 300 people,15 belong to a
'medium group' employing more than 300 but less than 1,000 people
and 9 belong to a 'large group' employing more than 1,000 people.
We now proceed to investigate the type of services used by RMG
manufacturing firms and their level of adoption, sources of
104
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
supply and method of securing these services and, finally,
estimate the extent of service use in RMG manufacturing and
exporting activity.
After receiving orders from the customers, the RMG
manufacturing firms carry out production planning. All firms
(100%) perform production planning without any formal outside
help. On the other hand, input procurement is carried out in
almost 87% of the cases (64 out of 74) by the firms themselves if
and when they are the direct suppliers to the foreign buyers. In
13% of the cases foreign buyers supply inputs to the RMG
manufacturing firms. But RMG manufacturing firms that supply to
the domestic RMG firms (for export) receive inputs from the
latter in 100% of the cases. That is, in such cases, input
procurement is done 100% outside the firm. Management control and
accounting are performed by almost all of the firms, and these
are carried out internally except in the case of a few large and
joint-venture firms where the services of external audit firms
are used. Quality control is performed by all the firms, and it
is done mostly internally (82%). Banking and Insurance Service
Almost all firms (98%) turn to banks for working capital against
their sales orders from abroad and about 57% (42 out of 74)
borrowed from banks to purchase their machines and equipment as
well. Bank loans are used invariably by all firms to buy inputs
and to meet a certain percentage of running expenditure, except
for a couple of partially (joint- venture) and fully foreign-
owned firms. All firms use banking services in varying degree.
All firms have their machines and plants insured and,
additionally, all input-importers (87%) and 15% of the exporters
get their imports/exports also insured. Shipping Service and
Shipping Agent & Port-use Shipping service is widely used by RMG
manufacturers. Shipping service is required for procuring inputs
and exporting outputs. Sometimes air-freight service is also
used. RMG manufacturers have to hire services of Clearing &
Forwarding Agents for clearing inputs from the port/custom and
105
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
loading the finished goods onto ships for export. Port-charge is
a normal expenditure by all RMG manufacturers for using the port-
facilities for the purpose of import and export.
About 85% of the firms (61 out of 74) use legal service from
professional legal consultants. Most medium and large firms have
one or more legal consultants employed on a permanent basis and
hire others (both local and foreign as per requirement) to look
after the legal matters concerning the firms. The firms
themselves except for those who work as subcontractors to the
exporting firm perform sales and Distribution Marketing services,
106
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
in the form of securing orders for output.
107
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
example,RMG manufacturing firms located in the Chittagong Export
Processing zone enjoy the privilege of getting their cargo
containers cleared (by the custom) right at their own plant-
premise instead of at port-sheds. This enables the firms to avoid
losses incurred through pilferage of their wares
(imported/intended for export) during clearance at the port
sheds.
CHAPTER -VI
Conclusion
108
Export performance in the world market for Bangladeshi readymade Garment
2003
overall garment exports as these products are sold in quota-free
markets and reflect the strength of Bangladeshi producers in the
fully competitive global apparel markets. Preliminary data and
informal evidence indicate that this sector seems to have
weathered the devastating floods relatively well. The floods did
create a crisis for the tightly scheduled export industry, but to
its credit the firms responded swiftly and creatively to the
unexpected dislocation and transportation disruptions. The
industry is one hundred percent export-oriented and therefore
insulated from domestic demand shocks; however, it remains
vulnerable to domestic supply shocks and the smooth functioning
of the banking, transportation and other forward and backward
linkage sectors of the economy. The Dhaka-Chittagong road
remains the main transportation link connecting the production
units, mostly situated in and around Dhaka and the port in
Chittagong, where the raw material and the finished products are
shipped in and out. Despite increased this road. Eventually,
this road link was completely severed for several days when large
sections of the road went under water for a few weeks during the
latter phase of the floods. This delinking of the road
connection between Dhaka and the port in Chittagong was as
serious a threat as one can imagine for the garment exporters.
The industry responded by calling upon the Bangladesh navy to
help with trawlers and renting a plane from Thai Air that was
used to directly fly garment consignments from the Dhaka airport
to the Chittagong airport several times a day. According to
industry sources, the list of flood-related damage to the garment
industry is extensive.x According to the September 1998 BGMEA
newsletter, garments worth taka 1,000 crore ($208 million) could
not be exported on time due to the disruption of the Dhaka-
Chittagong road Attendance and worker productivity in factories
was down as much as 35 percent during the worst period of the
floods. As many as 300,000 workers were unable to work as their
homes and families were stricken by the flood conditions. Many
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more workers fell sick from waterborne diseases. Besides natural
disasters, there were several other crises that impacted the
garment industry in 1998. The disruption of the Chittagong port
due to labor disputes was certainly one of them. BGMEA, the
industry association, has repeatedly requested the government to
ban labor strikes in the Chittagong port for national security
reasons. Another source of disruption for the industry was the
perennial problem of hartals or general strikes called for and
enforced by the political opposition. Although the leader of
the main opposition party has declared, in a major concession to
this industry, that the garment industry would be exempt from
such hartals, in practice the situation is more difficult.
Lastly, the psychological impact of these events on the existing
and potential buyers cannot be overstated. Buyers in the global
garment dependence on air transportation, trucks remain the main
vehicles for transporting raw materials and finished products for
Bangladesh garment exports. The floods disrupted the normal flow
of traffic on markets remain highly sensitive to the risks of
unfulfilled orders. As a result of the floods, the image of
Bangladesh as a somewhat unpredictable supply source may have
been strengthened since the floods received considerable world
media attention. But The Ready-Made Garments (RMG) industry
occupies a unique position in the Bangladesh economy. It is the
largest exporting industry in Bangladesh, which experienced
phenomenal growth during the last 25 years. By taking advantage
of an insulated market under the provision of Multi Fibre
Agreement (MFA) of GATT, it attained a high profile in terms of
foreign exchange earnings, exports, industrialization and
contribution to GDP within a short span of time. The industry
plays a key role in employment generation and in the provision of
income to the poor. To remain competitive in the post-MFA phase,
Bangladesh needs to remove all the structural impediments in the
transportation facilities, telecommunication network, and power
supply, management of seaport, utility services and in the law
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and order situation. The government and the RMG sector would have
to jointly work together to maintain competitiveness in the
global RMG market
RECOMMODUCATIONS
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2008, which has been the largest supplier of textiles and apparel
to USA. Other factors like price competitiveness, enhanced GSP
facility, market and product diversification, cheap labor,
increased backward integration, high level of investment, and
government support are among the key factors that helped the
country to continue the momentum in export earnings in the
apparel sector. Some of these elements are reviewed below.
Market Diversification
Product Diversification
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items, the entrepreneurs of the RMG sector have also been able to
diversify the product base ranging from ordinary shirts, T-
shirts, trousers, shorts, pajamas, ladies and children’s wear to
sophisticated high value items like quality suits, branded jeans,
jackets, sweaters, embroidered wear etc. It is clear that value
addition accrues mostly in the designer items, and the sooner
local entrepreneurs can catch on to this trend the brighter be
the RMG future.
Backward Integration
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produce textile items competitively at home through the
establishment of backward linkage with the RMG industry. To some
extent the industry has foreseen the need and has embarked on its
own capacity building.
Flow of Investment
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Infrastructural Impediments
Labor Productivity
The productive efficiency of labor is more important
determinant for gaining comparative advantage than the physical
abundance of labor. In Bangladesh, the garment workers are mostly
women with little education and training. The employment of an
uneven number of unskilled labors by the garment factories
results in low productivity and comparatively more expensive
apparels. Bangladesh labor productivity is known to be lower when
it compared with of Sri Lanka, South Korea and Hong Kong.
Bangladesh must look for ways to improve the productivity of its
labor force if it wants to compete regionally if not globally.
Because of cheap labor if our country makes the labor
productivity in the apex position, then we think the future of
this sector is highly optimistic.
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assisted technology and knowledge transfer. A facilitating public
sector role can be very relevant here.
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discussion in this section clearly points to the positive
contribution made by policy reforms to the growth of the RMG
industry in Bangladesh. In particular, two policies– the SBW
facility and the back-to-back L/C system- led to significant
reduction in cost of producing garments and enhanced
competitiveness of Bangladesh’s garments exports. It also allowed
garment manufacturers to earn more profit which, when necessary,
could be used to overcome difficulties arising from weak
governance. Furthermore, poor governance, reflected in the
leakage of duty-free imported fabrics in the domestic market,
paradoxically enough also helped the garment manufacturers to
earn extra ‘profit’ and thereby enabled them to absorb the ‘high
cost of doing businesses – a fall out of bad governance.
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References:
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9.The Economy of Bangladesh: Problems and Prospects, Praeger,
Westport, 1996.
BGMEA Newsletter, September 1998 issue.
10.The world bank group
11.Bangladesh statically bureau.
12.Book of Bangladesh bank.
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Appendix
Market Analysis
(US $)
Constant-Market-Share Analysis of Bangladeshi Garment Exports
(1889- 1998)
V • j ′
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COMMODITY ANALYSIS
(US $)
Constant-Market-Share Analysis of Bangladeshi Garment Exports (1889-1998)
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Analysis
100%
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123