Canadian Jeweller August 2009

AUGUST 2009
over130 years
in the business of
$
25
retailing jewellery
canadian jeweller
magazine
www.canadianjeweller.com
c l u s ive
Ex w
Sho
2009 es
Guid o all the Made in Italy
r g uide t Trends from the
Yo u
y i n g shows Vicenza show
fall b u
Silver Lining
Is silver is set to make
Bridal to the bank a fine comeback?
Why bridal stands a chance
A Cut
PUBLICATIONS MAIL 40011270 | 60 BLOOR STREET WEST SUITE 1106, TORONTO ON, M4W 3B8 | $25
at staying strong in the market
Eastern Influence
Above
A look at the Japanese
jewellery market
Refined and Reformed

The business climate at
JCK Las Vegas
Pat Thompson from St. John’s Diamond Design
PLUS:
ALL THE LATEST MARKET NEWS, TRENDS & EVENTS
001.CJ_Cover.indd 1 7/17/09 11:39:23 AM

For details, write #101 on Free Info Page, page 113.
CJ_AUG09_Siffari_Ad.indd 1
7/16/09 1:38:22 PM
Fluorescence
Measurements
Certificate
RappaporT
Symmetry
Stock #
Clarity
Colour
Weight
Polish
Shape
Depth
Table
Make
696A+3 1.51 RADIANT FIY VVS1 6.24x5.76x4.25 73.8 64.0 G G MED BLUE PLS CALL GIA G
802B+5 1.24 CUSHION FIY VS1 6.98x6.34x3.65 57.6 60.0 VG G NONE PLS CALL GIA VG
802B+4 1.22 CUSHION FIY VS1 6.67x5.63x4.02 71.4 58.0 EX G FAINT PLS CALL GIA VG
802A+1 1.46 RADIANT FLY VS1 6.77x6.42x4.01 62.5 62.0 VG G STRONG BLUE PLS CALL GIA VG
802 1.44 RADIANT FLY VVS1 6.77x6.46x3.99 61.8 63.0 G G NONE PLS CALL GIA G
802A+6 0.88 RADIANT FLY VS2 5.74x5.16x3.31 64.1 78.0 G G MED BLUE PLS CALL GIA G
332+1 1.10 RBC Fancy Brown VS2 6.67x6.69x4.02 60.2 60.0 VG VG STRONG GREEN PLS CALL GIA VG
1014B+3 1.12 OVAL FIY VS1 6.70x5.11x4.01 78.5 54.0 VG G MED BLUE PLS CALL GIA VG
10F+1 3.04 RBC F SI2 9.22x9.27x5.81 62.9 55.8 EX VG NONE -28% HW EX
10FB+1 3.02 RBC F SI2 9.26x9.33x5.74 61.8 54.9 EX G NONE -28% HW VG
37+2 2.00 RBC H VS2 8.11x8.06x4.95 61.3 60.1 VG VG NONE -35% HW G
70+1 1.75 RBC F SI2 7.73x7.78x4.73 61.0 56.2 EX G NONE -30% HW VG
335C+1 0.92 RBC D INF 6.21x6.25x3.9 62.8 55.4 VG VG NONE -35% HW VG
213E+1 1.01 RBC F I1 6.41x6.44x3.99 62.1 56.3 VG G NONE -30% HW EX
920+1 3.43 OVAL D SI2 7.84x12.08x5.32 67.8 58.5 VG VG NONE -40% HW VG
2144+1 1.28 PEAR D VVS1 8.81x6.10x4.0 65.8 54.0 VG VG NONE -25% HW VG
721E+1 1.06 ASSCHER G VS2 5.72x5.71x3.88 67.9 65.3 EX VG NONE -30% HW VG
2118+1 1.46 EMERALD D INF 8.32x5.28x3.69 69.8 68.0 VG VG NONE -20% HW VG
696E+0 1.50 PRINCESS F VVS2 6.17x6.19x4.67 75.6 75.6 VG G NONE -30% HW VG
725A+12 1.07 PRINCESS E VVS2 5.73x5.80x3.91 68.1 75.1 VG G NONE -30% HW G
Canada’s REAL Diamond House.

Our Diamonds MAKE you want to come back.
To add your name to our mailing list please forward your request to sales@sapirdiamonds.com
55 Queen St. E. Suite 501, Toronto, Ontario M5C 1R6
Radiant Stone Phone: 416-863-6036/7 Toll Free: 1-866-387-1759 Fax: 416-863-0671 Round Stone
5.01 ct www.SapirDiamonds.com 5.05 ct
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CJ_AUG09_Sapir_Ad.indd 1 7/16/09 1:39:35 PM

COVERAGE
YO U C A N C O U N T O N .
PEOPLE
YO U C A N C O U N T O N .
“I insure with Jewelers Mutual to protect

what I love. Jewelers Mutual insures
only jewellery and jewellery businesses,
so they understand my insurance needs
better than anyone.
My dad started this business more than

50 years ago and always said that being
a jeweller is a privilege because we are in
the business of helping people celebrate
their special occasions. Jewelers Mutual
is there to help make sure we continue
to do just that.”
— Frank Damiani
Damiani Jewellers, Ltd.
Woodbridge, Ontario
Jewelers Mutual is proud to pay Jewellers Vigilance

Canada membership fees for insureds in Canada.
R E TA I L E R S
M A N U FA C T U R E R S
WHOLESALERS
C U S TO M D E S I G N E R S
R E PA I R B U S I N E S S E S
Frank Damiani APPRAISERS
JM.indd 2 7/16/09 1:40:41 PM

N
O
W
IN
Q
U
ÉB
I F YO U C H I P T H E C U S TO M E R ’ S D I A M O N D …
EC
W I L L YO U B E I N S U R E D ?
If you chip a customer’s diamond while setting it into a new mounting… will you be insured?
Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company now offers “work or operations” coverage as an addition to their
Jewelers Block policy in Canada, so your customers’ jewellery is protected if damage occurs while you or one
of your employees works on the piece.
Coverage highlights
• Covers damage that occurs while you or your employees are repairing, adjusting, constructing,
manufacturing, processing, servicing, testing, or cleaning your customer’s jewellery at your
JM-insured business in Canada.
• Applies to damage by an independent bench jeweller whom you hire to work at your insured
premises for your retail customers’ property.
This coverage does not protect your store’s merchandise or property that you are working on for others
in the jewellery trade.
For more information or for a free, no-obligation quote, contact Jewelers Mutual.
These descriptions are a brief summary of coverage. This language is not part of the insurance policy and is not a substitute for the actual policy language.
For details, write #103 on Free Info Page, page 113

800-558-6411 • www.jewelersmutual.com
YourInsuranceExpert@jminsure.com
Jewelers Mutual is proud to pay Jewellers Vigilance Canada membership fees for insureds in Canada.
E X C L U S I V E LY E N D O R S E D B Y
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Established 1879 august 2009 • vol. 130, no. 4
Judy Richards Guest Editor

Olivier Felicio President, Publisher | olivier@rivegauchemedia.com
Paul Aguirre Associate Editor | paul@rivegauchemedia.com

Carol Besler Editorial Consultant
Lauren Brunetti Editorial Intern | intern@rivegauchemedia.com
Scott Jordan Art Director | design@rivegauchemedia.com

Leslie Ross Designer | graphics@rivegauchemedia.com
Jordan Martinez Production Manager | production@rivegauchemedia.com
Melanie Seth Accounting and Administration | finance@rivegauchemedia.com
CONTRIBUTORS Gordon Feller, Robin Gambhir, Howard Grosfield,

Sarah B. Hood, Amber Klaehn, Greg Locke,
Daniel Marquez, Duncan Parker, Bonnie Siegler.
sales
Lucy Holden International Sales Manager/Marketplace
tel. (416)203-7900 ext. 6117
email lucy@rivegauchemedia.com
Jeff Yamaguchi ADVERTISING Sales

tel. (416) 203-7900 ext. 6122
email jeff@rivegauchemedia.com
Deborah Brewster circulation Manager

tel. (416)203-7900 ext. 6118 fax (416) 703-6392
email deborah@rivegauchemedia.com
Head Office 60 Bloor Street West, Suite 1106

Toronto, Ontario, M4W 3B8
tel. (416) 203-7900 fax (416) 703-6392
Montreal Office 555 Chabanel Street West, Suite 1507

Montreal, Quebec, H2N 2J2
tel. (514) 381-5196 fax (514) 381-6223
toll free 1-888-358-8186 ext. 6117
Subscription Rates
Canada — one year, $35; two years, $45; three years $55. United States — one year, US$44. Foreign — one year US$56 (Subscriptions include Buyers’ Guide issues.)
8% P.S.T. for Newfoundland, New Brunswick and Nova Scotia residents. Single copies — $5; Buyers’ Guide $40. Bulk rates — six or more subscriptions, $17.50 per
subscription per year (Canada only).
Change of Address
email: deborah@rivegauchemedia.com telephone: (416) 203-7900 ext 6109 fax: (416) 703-6392
or send your cover label and new address to Canadian Jeweller magazine, 60 Bloor Street West,
Suite 1106, Toronto, ON Canada M4W 3B8
Published by Rive Gauche Media II Inc.
Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 40011270. The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any
and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints
in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No
portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher. Canadian Jeweller magazine is pleased to review unsolicited
submissions for editorial consideration under the following conditions: all material submitted for editorial consideration (photographs, illustrations, written text in electronic or
hard copy format) may be used by Canadian Jeweller and their affiliates for editorial purposes in any media (whether printed, electronic, internet, disc, etc.) without the consent
of, or the payment of compensation to, the party providing such material. Please direct submissions to the Editor, Canadian. Return undeliverable items to Rive Gauche Media,
60 Bloor Street West, Ste. 1106, Toronto, ON Canada M4W 3B8.
Official magazine of the JVC
8 CJ august 2009 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
008.CJ_Masthead.indd 8 7/16/09 2:37:00 PM

CJ_AUG09_JSN_Ad.indd 1 7/10/09 3:16:01 PM

table of
Contents
August
80
Features
46 A Cut Above
A one-on-one with Pat Thompson from
St. John’s Diamond Design.
52 Refined and Reformed

The industry is headed in new directions if
JCK Las Vegas was any indication.
80 Made in Italy
56 Silver Lining
Trends from the Vicenza show.
A survey of the silver jewellery industry.

86 Tech Talk
62 Wrist Worthy

Part 1 of our look at the importance of technology
in the retail environment.
Looking at the latest fall watches consumers will look for.
66 Bridal to the Bank

92 Eastern Influence
A look at the Japanese jewellery market.
Wedding jewellery might be the only growing segment
in a slow market.
98 Radiant Ruby
70 Responsible Retailing
Are rubies the new “it” gem?
An update on the Responsible Jewellery Council.

100 Industry Buzz
74 Determined to Dominate
Snapshots of JCK and more.
Small businesses adapt to stay afloat during tough times.
46
010-012.CJ_Contents.indd 10 7/16/09 5:10:38 PM

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table of
Contents
August
84
Departments
14 Letter from the Guest Editor

16 Product Showcase
22 Who’s News
Saying goodbye to Varuj Arkarakas; Maria Sharapova
teams up with Tiffany.
26 For The Record

84 Star Watch
Coast-to-Coast
JVC Golf Tournament; 2009 Saul Bell Design Award
Winners; Birks Celebrates Canadian Olympics.
113 Fax Back
31 Stock Index
114 Showcase
32 Mining News
118 Marketplace
All the happenings in the mining sector.

34 Face Value 122 Last Word
The importance of being ethical in questionable times.
38 Market Watch
A glance at where bridal is booming.
42 Company Profile
JoMark.
76 Designer Profile
Gil Bishouri from Gee N’Gee.
42
010-012.CJ_Contents.indd 12 7/16/09 5:11:20 PM

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6/26/09 2:18:54
2:53:50 PM
letterfromguesteditor
Upward and
Onward
I don’t know about the rest of you, but December to April were real
tough months for me in the jewellery business here in Ottawa. We
were down 27% for those 5 months. I always believed Ottawa was
recession-proof, as it has always held true in the past, but this time
was different.
Well, misery likes company, so I got on the phone to see how my
peers were doing. In general, the small towns seemed to be doing
well, but I found solace in the big cities who were suffering just like
me!
And then there was Pat Thompson of Diamond Design in St.
John’s. Pat and I had always kept in touch after a buying trip to Italy.
We liked to share our successful marketing ideas over the years. I
shared my successes with “Girls Night Out” and Pat introduced
me to his successful “Gemstone Round Table Evenings.” Pat wasn’t
having a recession; Pat was upbeat and positive. Things were great in
Newfoundland!
Why was I surprised? Knowing Pat for over ten years, I have
watched him grow his business in the most calm, nurturing and
methodical way, with a little ‘Newfie’ humour thrown in for good
measure. Why should something like a little recession in a province
with the highest rate of unemployment slow him down?
So when I was asked to be the Guest Editor for this issue of
Canadian Jeweller and choose the next cover story, I knew it had to be
Pat Thompson. He’s full of great marketing ideas, has a wonderfully
positive attitude, knows how to romance his clients and is a leader in
our industry. If you don’t already know him, here’s your chance. Pat
Thompson is the quintessential jeweller.
Judy Richards
Judy Richards
Guest Editor
President, Davidson’s Jewellers, Ottawa, Ontario
14 CJ AUGUST 2009 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
014.CJ_Directors.indd 14 7/16/09 11:26:36 AM

andrewrobertsdesign.com
pour homme you’ve earned it
We proudly introduce Pour Homme, our new

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Each design is inspired by the virtues of strength,
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The men’s
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Our jewellery is hand crafted with the upmost

regard to quality. As well, our diamonds are
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For more than three decades we have striven to

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productshowcase
Pour Homme Form Meets Function

The new men’s jewellery line from Gee N’ Gee Importers Ltd. is a At Muehle Glashuette, tradition and precision have been at
collection of over 45 unique styles. Each design features bold lines the heart of the company since 1869. The philosophy is simple:
inspired by the virtues of strength, distinction and success. Some form follows function. Their watches are distinctive, yet the
of these new styles feature two-tone white and 19K rose gold in a designs are clean; above all else, they are precision instruments
copper finish, creating a very distinct effect. This contemporary that measure time. The company’s strength and tradition lie in
men’s line is hand crafted with the upmost regard for quality. For building timepieces that are reliable, functional and stylish. For
more information, write 110 on the Free Info Card on page 113. more information, write 111 on the Free Info Card on page 113.
CGM’s Selection Siffari Collection Shines

For 25 years, CGM has served the industry with a large This ring, pendant and earring set are part of Siffari’s new
selection of findings in 10k, 14k, 18k, 22k, sterling silver Starburst Quartz Collection. Each piece features a 12mm round
and gold, filled at excellent prices without compromising Starburst stone available in green, yellow and rose de france
quality. CGM has recently added precious and semi-precious colours. All pieces are available in 10k, 14k or 18k white, yellow or
beads to complement the findings line. CGM is known for two-tone gold. For more information, write 113 on the Free Info
its cornerstones of service, slection and savings. For more Card on page 113.
information, write 112 on the Free Info Card on page 113.
16 CJ j u n e / j u ly 2 0 0 9 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
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productshowcase
Individual Expression
For half a century, Atlantic Engraving Ltd. has been an industry
JSN Diamonds Sparkle leader, and as third generation jewellers, has taken the ultimate
JSN is one of Canada’s leading jewellery manufacturers with symbol of commitment beyond the wedding band and classic
an arsenal of five brands that range from entry-level product to a eternity ring. Featuring coloured metals and unique finishes, an
fully-certified premium Canadian diamond line. With offices Atlantic ring is an expression of individuality. Each ring produced
in Canada, the United Kingdom and the United States, along is made of seamless tubing and is cut with diamond tipped tools
with a plant in Bangkok, Thailand, JNS has achieved a high level on the highest state-of-the-art European machinery, and no ring
of recognition on the international stage. For more information, leaves the factory without extensive quality control. For more
write 115 on the Free Info Card on page 113. information, write 116 on the Free Info Card on page 113.
Selling with Security The Pandora Line

Keep your profits from walking out the door! Jewelers Mutual’s Danish designed Pandora offers a universe of jewellery including
online security course, Selling with Security, demonstrates how retail charm bracelets, rings, necklaces and earrings in 14K gold, sterling
store associates can incorporate three basic security habits into their silver and some with semi-precious or precious gems. Each piece is
selling techniques; key habits worth learning. The course will cover beautifully handcrafted and finished, and many can be personalized
the topics: “Meet and Greet;” “One on One;” and “Turn the Key” — to reflect one’s own personal style. For more information, write 118
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Brilliant Bracelet
CHARRIOL, the international leading brand for fine jewellery and
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Nature’s Own Canadian Diamonds

Juxtaposition of the exotic Bird of Paradise floral motif contrasted Diarough Canada supplies Canadian MCP, Canadamark and non-
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Collection from Stuller provides exotic beauty at accessible price diamantaire with offices and factories worldwide. As part of a group
points. Available from the prime manufacturer as a ring, pendant, of companies under Diarough, Mahendra Brothers and Uni-Design,
cuff bracelet or earrings, this collection compliments any wardrobe it supplies from rough to jewellery. Online inventory is available on
selection. For more information, write 122 on the Free Info Card Rap-Net and IDEX or at www.diaroughcanada.com. For more
on page 113. information, write 123 on the Free Info Card on page 113.

productshowcase
Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council

From being one of the world’s largest manufacturers of diamonds to
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JOMARK has been one of Canada’s premier distributor of European gems and jewellery sector is set on growth trajectory. Subsequently,
gold jewellery since 1989. Offering an extensive range of gold the industry’s growth over the years can be attributed primarily
jewellery, JOMARK’s high standards and passion guarantees to the continuous efforts put in by the Gem and Jewellery Export
high-quality luxury jewellery delivered across Canada. All gold is Promotion Council (GJEPC). Set up in 1966, the GJEPC has played
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jewellery from the unsurpassed gold distributor JOMARK. For industry to its present stature. For more information, write 125 on
more information, write 124 on the Free Info Card on page 113. the Free Info Card on page 113.
Illustrious Necklace
Firetrace Necklace in white gold set with Murion Quartz, Smoky Quartz,
GS Laboratories introduces Firetrace, which now makes it possible Black Quartz and Diamonds. The Pietra line from Viana was
for clients to accurately measure the light performance of their created based on the concept of shape deconstruction, ending in an
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information, write 125 on the Free Info Card on page 113.
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m august 2009 CJ 21

who’snews
Find out who is

making headlines in
the jewellery industry.
Tiffany for Maria Sharapova

Tiffany&Co. has announced a new celebrity
jewellery collection with 21-year-old tennis
player, Maria Sharapova. The two-year deal
with the Russian athlete outlines Sharapova
agreeing to wear a pair of earrings during
eight Grand Slam tournaments, immediately
afterwards they will be available in Tiffany Calnon, designer Ariane Zurcher
Director of the World Gold Council, John
stores worldwide for purchase. “Maria Marcia Gay Harden with U.S. Managing
of World Gold Council.
and Duvall O’Steen, marketing director
Sharapova is a longtime friend of Tiffany and
a champion on and off the court,” said Linda Gold Jewellery For a Good Cause Cameco Announces Changes
Buckley, Vice President of worldwide public Twelve Hollywood celebrities are designing a CEO of De Beers Canada, Jim Gowans,
relations for the brand. “It gives us great piece of gold jewellery for the Leaves of Change has been elected as a Director of Cameco
pleasure to accent her on-court look with project, which helps to raise money and Corporation, the world’s biggest uranium
earrings that epitomize both the quality of her awareness for numerous charities, all of which miner. Gowans and another new director,
championship play and Tiffany’s reputation for are hand-picked by each celebrity. Inspired by Donald Deranger, will be taking over for Harry
design excellence.” Sharapova said she is very a leaf motif, each piece of jewellery will help Cook and John Auston, who have both retired
excited to be partnered with Tiffany&Co, since various causes, such as child health, healthy from their positions on the board. Gowans is
it is her favorite jeweler. “Elsa Peretti’s earrings water supply and eradicating hunger. Designed currently on the board of DeBeers Canada as
feel as beautiful as they look and I am thrilled to by the celebrities, the pieces will then be crafted the chair of the Mining Association of Canada
wear them at the French Open.” by renowned fine jewellery designers, who have and President of the Canadian Institute of
agreed to generously fund the manufacturing. Mining, Metallurgy and Petroleum. Also,
The jewellery will be auctioned and the money Deranger is currently the Athabasca vice-chief
will be donated to the specific charity of the of the Prince Albert Grand Council and an
celebrity’s choice. Amongst the celebrities are adviser to the Athabasca Basin Development
Christina Applegate, Whoopi Goldberg, Marcia Corporation.
Gay Harden, Samantha Harris, Debra Messing,
Chris Noth, Lena Olin, Rachael Ray, Susan
Sarandon, Brooke Shields, Eric McCormack and
Pauletta and Denzel Washington.
Obama Jewellery
Obama campaign jewellery, designed by
Heide Schmaltz Lasher, has been selected to
be on display at the Smithsonian Museum
in Washington, D.C and it will also be
available to purchase. The “Obama Hope” pin,
designed by Lasher, consists of a very unique
rhinestone that happened to be introduced
at last summer’s Democratic National
Convention in Denver. The rhinestone pin
was approved for sale by the “Obama for
America” campaign last summer.
Jim Gowans
Maria Sharapova
024.CJ_WhosNews.indd 22 7/16/09 11:29:53 AM

CJ_AUG09_Five_Star_Diamonds_Ad.indd 1 7/16/09 2:06:11 PM

who’snews
Varuj Arkarakas
Fairwell to a Friend
Varuj Arkarakas, Executive Vice-President and
General Manager of Master Design, a company he
founded 25 years ago, passed away at the age of 50
on June 29, after a short illness. He is survived by
his wife, Hera, sons Eren and Evan, and daughter-
in-law Araz. His long-time friend Jeff Morrison of
925 Solutions remembers him here.
When I was asked to write a testimonial

for Varuj Arkarakas, I thought about what
direction I would take in order to profile his
life. Instead of focusing on his many business
accomplishments over the last 29 years, I
wanted to spend the time reflecting on his
character. The request came to me a few hours
before a celebration of Varuj's life was to begin
at the Angus Glen Golf Club. It was referred
to as a party, get together or celebration of
life. Whatever the noun, it seemed out of
place considering the event was taking place
the evening on the day of his funeral. That
evening, over 250 people arrived in casual dress retailers made the trek to The Holy Trinity to eat and just hung out. This was his wish, and
to reminisce about Varuj's life. Once I arrived Armenian Church to honor and say goodbye to by all accounts his wish came true.
I had found my inspiration and the basis of my a friend. Customers and competitors, friends
testimonial to a wonderful man and good friend. from years gone by and others who may have The test to a man's character is the respect he is
To the many who knew him he was called VA. met Varuj only briefly, put business aside and afforded by the people he had touched. From
gave of themselves to support and be a comfort across Canada, members of the Canadian
Not that Arkarakas was a difficult name to to VA's family. Our industry was represented jewellery industry came together to honour
pronounce, but VA promoted a sense of the by so many who for over an hour lined up and VA as a person and as a businessman. The
stature of the man. He was tall, strong, and entered the church only to find that they were commentary was moving and the accolades were
athletic, with a passion for soccer and golf. He left to stand as every seat was filled. All dressed great. People greeted each other with the same
had the visible prowess to move a piano and in proper business attire, they watched and enthusiastic hug that VA was famous for. Near
the soft gentle touch to hold a crying child, listened as the ceremony unfolded. It was a sad the end of the evening, a slide presentation was
providing them comfort and security. VA loved and somber time of tears and loss. shown on a large screen. There was VA, his smile
life, and life loved VA. A dedicated husband of and charisma jumped off the screen. It was hard
30 years to his wife Hera and a proud father to The evening at Angus Glen was a complete to believe he was gone. We all wondered when
his sons Aren and Evan, VA loved to be around contradiction to the morning’s service. It was he would walk up to the 18th green and say
people. It was with his friends and family that here that one could see and feel the impact hello.
he was most at ease. that VA had on so many. Gone were the tears
of sadness. They were replaced with the joy If only for a few hours, Varuj did something that
What an industry! Just when you feel like of celebration. Everyone who went that night seemed so unlikely within our industry. He
everyone these days is scrambling aimlessly in did so for one reason: to honor and respect the brought people together and made us feel like
so many directions, an event occurs that gives memory of Varuj Arkarakas. In small groups of we were all the same despite our competitive
you hope and makes you proud. There needs to 2 or 3 to tables of 10-12, VA was remembered. nature. We supported our friend, and supported
be a common thread that brings people together. People laughed, and smiled, and felt like they each other. We should be proud. VA was the
On a warm sunny day early in July people did came together to revel in his memory. Everyone common denominator. It was his character
just that: they came together. The event was had stories to tell about VA and how he touched – the honour and the respect – this was the
the funeral for Varuj Arkarakas. An estimated their lives. It was almost magical as we looked testament to our friend.
1,500 people, including diamond merchants, over the beautiful golf course that VA loved to
watch companies, salesreps, wholesalers and play. We smoked cigars, drank scotch, had a bite — Jeff Morrison
024.CJ_WhosNews.indd 24 7/16/09 11:30:31 AM

CJ_AUG09_Vianna_Ad.indd 1
7/16/09 3:04:43 PM
news | trends | events
IsDMA and Diamond Trading Third Annual New York Jewelry jewellery, rare jewels, unique designer pieces
Company Annual Meeting and Watch Show and personal timepieces.
The annual meeting between IsDMA and The The third annual New York Antique Jewelry
Diamond Trading Company discussed the & Watch Show at the Metropolitan Pavilion 2009 Saul Bell Design
current state of the Israeli diamond business in New York City brought over 100 of the Award Winners
and the trends in world diamond markets. Moti finest antique jewellery dealers from around Rio Grande has announced the winners of
Ganz, IsDMA President, said that this strategic the globe, including North America, Europe, the Ninth Annual Saul Bell Design Award
initiative is targeted to providing marketing Asia, and the Americas. The four-day Competition, a competition that specifically
support to Israeli diamond manufacturers and event displayed stunning antique jewellery recognizes artists whose work challenges
exporters, while at the same time providing and timepieces. “We’re excited about the traditional perceptions of jewellery designs,
real-time assistance and services to the Israeli magnificent antique jewellery and watch involving creating original and innovative
Diamond Industry’s international trading pieces being offered at this year’s show,” said pieces. Each designer chose one category out
partners. In the end, both parties agreed that Andrea Canady, Fair Director. “The New of six as the foundation of their piece and
strong working relationships are essential for York show continues to offer an intimate integrated additional stones or materials as
the continued development and growth of environment for collectors to peruse the they wished. Geoffrey Giles of Asheville,
the Israeli diamond industry. Also, Eli Avidar, finest selection of truly spectacular and North Carolina won the grand prize in the
Managing Director of the IDI Group of highly coveted antique jewellery.” Not only Gold/Platinum category, winning a $10,000
Companies, presented the strategic marketing did numerous buyers attend the show, but Rio Grande gift certificate. Meanwhile, two
campaign “Together Works” launched in March many celebrities as well. The attendees were Canadians were also finalists in the Emerging
2009 at this event. able to purchase and browse the antique Artist category; Pamela Lauz from Oakville,
ON and Blake Davey from Surrey, BC. This
category celebrates young designers and their
Pictured are Kevin Kaye creativity in the jewellery industry. Don’t
and Gail Goldberg of JVC. forget about Canadian Jeweller’s Excellence
in Design contest happening this September;
look for details in our next issue.
Roberto Coin Opens 10th

Boutique in Cape Cod
Leading Italian jewellery designer Roberto
Coin announced the opening of his fifth
boutique in the US in the upscale Mashpee
Commons, a main shopping destination for
the Cape and the South Shore of Boston. The
new boutique will offer some of the brand’s
latest collections, including CapriPlus,
Ipanema and Moresque. “We had a great
opportunity to enter this market in Cape
Cod and felt the timing was right,” said Peter
Webster, President/Co-Owner of Roberto
Coin USA, “The audience in the Cape is
JVC Golf Tournament
perfect for our product.” With 1,100-square-
This years annual JVC Golf Tournament, co-chaired by Kevin Kaye and Eric
feet of interior retail space, future plans for
Senftleben of Citizen Watch Company of Canada, was the most successful
store renovations are slated to begin during
tournament yet. Raising 50% more funds compared to last year, the majority of
the fall season. This opening marks the tenth
the profits came from a silent auction. After a challenging business year, industry
worldwide boutique by Roberto Coin; other
professionals came to Angus Glen Golf Club in Markham, ON to support JVC
locations include Rome, Dubai, Macao,
and to help raise money for the cause. Canadian Jeweller was also proud to be
Baku, Venice, Atlanta, Asheville, Vero Beach
the official magazine for the tournament.
and Carlsbad.
026-031.CJ_FTR_re.indd 26 7/16/09 2:42:34 PM

cJ_muehle_watch_ad:Layout 1 7/2/2009 11:44 AM Page 1
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CJ_AUG_Muehle_Glasheutte_Ad.indd 1 7/16/09 2:24:14 PM

De Beers and Botswana Anniversary Henry Dunay Designs Bankrupt Shaesby Bridal Premiers, Wins
One of the most successful public-private Henry Dunay, a New York-based jewellery Platinum Guild Award at Couture
partnerships in the world, De Beers and company that has outfitted dozens of Austin, Texas-based artist Shaesby Scott
Botswana, has celebrated its 40th anniversary. celebrities and sells designs through upscale won the prestigious Platinum Guild Award
This unique partnership began in 1969, department stores, has filed for bankruptcy. for his first bridal collection at the Couture
when the lease agreement was signed for the After listing assets in the range of US show in Las Vegas. The new unique line
Orapa Mine and De Beers Botswana Mining $1-million to $10-million USD and liabilities of wedding bands for women and men is
Company Limited. At independence in in the same range, Henry Dunay Designs carefully handcrafted in Shaesby’s studio.
1966, Botswana was one of Africa’s poorest Inc, filed a voluntary bankruptcy petition Each band also has the option of 18k yellow
countries, but since the Botswana/De Beers in Manhattan.The Company’s customers gold or platinum with rubies, sapphires and
partnership, it has transformed into a included Tom Cruise, Leonardo DiCaprio, black or yellow diamonds in addition to the
middle-income country. Nicky Oppenheimer, Elizabeth Taylor, Hillary Clinton, Nancy traditional white diamonds. The new bridal
Chairman of De Beers said, “Debswana Reagan and Oprah Winfrey. Henry Dunay, line features Shaesby’s signature satin texture,
has a bright future. It is built on the shared the designer who launched the company in marquis diamonds and organic lines, which
commitment to turn Botswana’s national 1965, is listed as President of the Company showcase the designer’s refined, modern
resources into national assets, the unflinching on the bankruptcy filing. The company did aesthetic taste. “For years, my customers
dedication of its Botswana employees, and not clarify why it filed for bankruptcy in its have requested that I create a grouping of
its resilience in the face of even the strongest initial petition, however several jewellery bridal rings. My objective was to design rings
of storms. It is the bedrock of a wonderful companies have been forced into bankruptcy as unique as each customer, while staying
bond, which De Beers has with the people of over the last year as consumers cut back on true to my aesthetics. I wanted to fill the void
Botswana. Long may it continue!” luxury purchases. that exists in the market for creative, artist-
driven rings that speak to the contemporary
bride and groom,” says Scott.
September Hong Kong Fair

To Be the Largest Ever
The Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair, one of
the largest jewellery trade fairs in the world
will be taking place in September. The fair is
the only exhibition in Hong Kong that spans
two venues, the Hong Kong Convention
& Exhibition Centre (HKCEC) and Asia
World-Expo (AWE). Jime Essink, CEO of the
Company said that the show would cover a
total area of approximately 100,000 square
metres. Occupying eight halls in the AWE,
the exhibition is also going to be 80% bigger
compared to previous years. The almost 3,000
exhibitors participating in the fair would
make this edition the biggest so far, he added.
IDI Hosts Diamond Town Hall Meeting This year’s show will include the new Fine
Hundreds of Israeli diamantaires attended Israel’s first ever Diamond Town Hall Gem Pavilion and International Premier
Meeting, hosted by Moti Ganz, Chairman of the Israel Diamond Institute Group Pavilion, which will showcase new wonders
of Companies (IDI), and including Gareth Penny Managing Director of the De from across the world to buyers.
Beers Group, and Varda Shine, Managing Director of the Diamond Trading
Company (DTC). “This meeting is an additional step in IDI’s broad-based efforts Sapir Diamonds Welcomes New
to support and promote the Israeli Diamond Industry during this difficult time. The Managing Partner
event testifies to the importance and vitality of Israel as a world-class diamond Mark Sapir is pleased to announce that his
center. There is no doubt that this meeting offers an important opportunity to new Managing Partner, Keith Williams, G.G.,
raise issues and to receive answers to the questions regarding pertinent issues has joined the Toronto business. Keith has
facing the industry at this time,” Ganz said. Gareth Penny also said that over the over 25 years of experience in the industry,
past 120 years, the diamond industry has proven its resilience and after every and has past employment with Fabrikant
recession, the diamond industry has experienced an immediate recovery. and Baumgolds, will be an asset in working
alongside Mr. Sapir.
026-031.CJ_FTR_re.indd 28 7/16/09 2:43:23 PM

fortherecord
EGL Asia Signs Diamond chain. “I am delighted that Fred Meyer Jewelers
Grading Agreement has officially joined the Responsible Jewellery
EGL Asia, the only EGL diamond laboratory Council. In so doing, they have demonstrated
operating independently in Asia, has signed a to their suppliers and, most importantly, to US
diamond grading agreement with 21Gem.com, consumers that ethical, responsible business
one of China's leading online gem and jewellery practices continue to be integral to their core
sales websites. The agreement positions EGL Asia business,es” said Michael Rae, CEO of RJC.
as the exclusive grader and provider of certificates Peter Engel, president of Fred Meyer Jewelers,
for loose diamonds and set jewellery diamonds added that the Company would work with all
sold on the website. Mark Gao, CEO, said, “We of the suppliers to ensure responsible business
have tested EGL Asia's grading standards time practices remain at the top of their business
and again at the State Center of Supervision priorities as well.
and Inspection on Quality of Gold and Silver
Products (NGGC), and are very happy with the Forevermark Diamond Grading
results. We found their standard of service highly Report
satisfactory for our customers.” Also, Joseph Forevermark, a diamond brand from the De Beers
Kuzi, CEO of EGL Asia said that the agreement Group, has introduced a diamond grading report.
is an important development. “Naturally, we are In order to reveal the unique characteristics of
very happy with this collaborative agreement. a diamond, official Forevermark jewellers are
Of course, we will continue to do our utmost to now able to provide a grading report, outlining
provide our high quality services to the benefit the cut, colour, clarity and caratage qualities of
of the 21Gem.com customers.” 21Gem.com the diamonds the sell. “Expert gemmologists
currently plays a leading role in China's online at the Forevermark Diamond Institute assess
diamond and jewellery retail sector. Meanwhile each diamond according to the most rigorous
EGL Asia is one of the best-known gemological criteria and highest standards of integrity and
laboratories in Hong Kong. accuracy, personally approving each exclusive
passport-sized Forevermark diamond grading
Basketeers’ 10th Anniversary report with meticulous attention to detail,” the
Basketeers, a charity project organized for 16 company said in a statement. The Forevermark
Canadian women’s shelters and one that is diamond grading report also features the unique
supported by the Canadian Jewellers Association, identification number inscribed on the diamond
recently celebrated its tenth anniversary. and a specially designed security hologram,
A volunteer project, Basketeers consists of providing reassurance that the report is valid and
a generous group of approximately 1,500 genuine.
House of Jewellery
volunteers who simply fill up baskets with
various items for women who are starting “a De Beers and Debswana Support
new life.” In the past, various manufacturers Community Projects in Botswana
and importers in the jewellery industry Diamond Trust, a non-profit making entity 55 Queen St. E. Suite#1302
have supported this project, such as Daco founded by Debswana and De Beers, has donated Toronto, Ontario
Tel: 1-800-668-4422 Fax: 416-368-0007
manufacturing, Rousseau, Gilo Creations and $1.42 million USD to a trust fund that administers Email: HOJCanada@aim.com
Evenchick Jewellery. Over the last ten years, the a number of community projects in the world website: HouseOfJewellery.com
project has expanded; originally it consisted of heritage site of the Tsodilo area. Launched in
We have many new items arriving
the original group of Basketeers covering the 2007, the Diamond Trust is part of Debswana daily from around the world!
Greater Toronto Area and now four additional and De Beers’ efforts to support communities Please visit our showroom.
chapters exist in Stratford, Simcoe, York and in Botswana. Sheila Khama, CEO of De Beers Monday-Friday 10:00 A.M. to 6:00 P.M.
Hamilton. The charity was founded by Cheryl Botswana and a founding member of the Board
Stoneburgh of Malo of Trustees, said these funds will assist in the Please visit us at the following shows!
development of a community plan, enabling
Fred Meyer Jewelers Joins RJC local communities to take an active role in the
CGTA Gift Show
August 9-12, 2009
Fred Meyer Jewelers, a fine jewellery retailer development of ecotourism. The project funding @Toronto International Centre
has joined the Responsible Jewellery Council will support the development and management Booth No. 5117
(RJC), an international trade organization that of about 16,000 hectares of land surrounding the Alberta Gift Show
represents over 100 member companies across Tsodilo Hills, according to a De Beers policy that August 16-19, 2009
all sectors of the diamond and gold supply seeks to focus on sustainable projects. @Northlands
Hall E
026-031.CJ_FTR_re.indd 29 7/16/09 2:43:42 PM

Birks Celebrates Canadian Olympics
Birks has been named the Official Supplier of jewellery for the
2010 Vancouver Winter Games, a post that complements the
brand’s celebration of its 100th Anniversary in Vancouver’s
West Hastings flagship. Birks has created a licensed jewellery
collection bearing the Vancouver 2010 Olympic and Paralympic
Winter Games emblems as well as the Canadian Olympic
Committee emblem. Products will include necklaces, earrings,
pendants and rings bearing the emblems. Birks will also produce
a limited-edition torch replica, bearing the Olympic emblems,
which stands approximately a foot high and is mounted on
a base. “This important initiative was born of shared values
and of Birks’ commitment to delivering an incredible brand
experience to a national and international audience,” says Tom
Andruskevich, President and CEO of Birks & Mayors, CJ’s
August 2008 cover story. “We are extremely proud to take part
in this journey that honours our best athletes and celebrates
excellence as the Vancouver 2010 Winter Games shine on the
worldwide stage. Canadians look to Birks to mark the most
important celebrations in their lives, which is why Birks wants to
Rousseau JUNE JULYrevised:Rousseau
commemorate this important moment4/21/09 1:15history.”
in Canadian
MCD Pearls PMSQ:Layout
Page 1 1 2/25/09 10:31 AM Page 1
MCD Pearl Imports

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Email info@mcdpearls.com
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026-031.CJ_FTR_re.indd 30 7/16/09 2:44:00 PM

fortherecord
Results From Christie’s

Spring Jewellery Sale
A 6.29ct blue diamond brought in US$3.6-
stock index
million at the Christie’s spring jewellery Last Quarter Market
sale in New York City after an anonymous Company Name Stock Exchange Price Price % 52-Week 52-Week Revenue P/E Cap
Symbol 04/24/09 06/26/09 Change High Low ($Millions) Ratio ($Millions)
buyer bought the stone for what works out
to $565,000 USD carat. Other stones sold at Precious Metals
the same event include a 46.72ct modified-
Agnico-Eagle Mines AEM TSX $57.980 $63.000 8.66% $80.740 $26.600 $147.0 75.49 9,806.00
rectangular-cut yellow diamond with SI-1 Alamos Gold AGI TSX $8.220 $9.720 18.25% $10.250 $3.500 $36.5 21.61 1,040.00
clarity, which sold for $602,500 USD and Anglogold Ashanti Ltd. AU NYSE $31.580 $37.980 20.27% $43.160 $13.370 $884.0 70.94 10,672.00
a diamond necklace by billionaire jeweller, Anvil Mining Limited AVM TSX $1.080 $1.580 46.30% $11.190 $0.450 $15.4 0.84 112.00
Barrick Gold Corp. ABX TSX $35.990 $40.400 12.25% $52.470 $22.000 $1,834.0 43.88 35,243.00
Laurence Graff, bought by a private buyer Compania Minas Buenaventu BVN NYSE $20.730 $25.050 20.84% $35.665 $9.000 $163.1 19.1 6,374.00
from the Middle East for $410,500 USD. Eastern Platinum ELR TSX $0.560 $0.520 -7.14% $2.810 $0.185 $31.6 N/A 354.00
Eldorado Gold ELD TSX $9.520 $10.930 14.81% $11.900 $3.440 $54.5 19.64 4,036.00
Equinox Minerals Limited EQN TSX $1.900 $2.840 49.47% $4.600 $0.760 N/A 12.41 1,695.00
Watch Your Watch Parts First Quantum Minerals FM TSX $38.620 $55.550 43.84% $75.950 $12.750 $268.2 N/A 3,826.00
From calibres to column wheels, the FNX Mining Company FNX TSX $5.490 $8.250 50.27% $24.780 $2.000 $51.8 N/A 700.00
Fortune Valley Resources FVX TSX-V $0.030 $0.060 100.00% $0.200 $0.005 N/A N/A 2.00
complexities of watch making are becoming Gammon Gold GAM TSX $8.240 $8.120 -1.46% $11.200 $2.680 $59.9 31.04 989.00
increasingly difficult for consumers to Gold Fields GFI NYSE $10.720 $10.720 12.39% $13.990 $4.640 $718.1 28.97 8,093.00
understand and for sales associates to Goldcorp Inc. G TSX $34.630 $41.850 20.85% $52.480 $17.770 $742.5 15.56 30,557.00
Iamgold Corp. IMG TSX $9.780 $11.840 21.06% $12.540 $2.930 $228.0 552.31 4,322.00
communicate. The Fondation de la Haute International Royalty IRC TSX $2.520 $3.710 47.22% $5.580 $1.300 $8.9 62.83 291.00
Horlogerie has devised a way to solve this Ivanhoe Mines IVN TSX $7.380 $6.360 -13.82% $12.600 $2.060 $4.3 N/A 2,405.00
Kinross Gold K TSX $18.740 $21.640 15.47% $25.370 $8.960 $544.0 N/A 15,028.00
problem with watch@tablet, an interactive Lundin Mining LUN TSX $2.110 $3.390 60.66% $6.460 $0.690 $154.9 N/A 1,652.00
touch screen PC with diagrams, pictures, Newmont Mining NMC TSX $47.740 $49.130 2.91% $59.600 $27.140 $1.6 30.14 20,262.00
videos and short explanations of watch- NovaGold Resources NG TSX $3.030 $5.230 72.61% $10.000 $0.475 $0.4 N/A 951.00
Pan American Silver PAA TSX $20.500 $21.450 4.63% $37.150 $11.120 $73.0 N/A 1,871.00
making’s most complex concepts and Red Back Mining Inc. RBI TSX $8.530 $10.250 20.16% $11.190 $3.280 $85.9 23.7 2,347.00
movements. The sales associate or consumer Silver Standard Resources SSO TSX $19.840 $22.100 11.39% $31.540 $6.870 $0.4 N/A 1,516.00
can instantly summon information that is Silver Wheaton SLW TSX $9.350 $9.830 5.13% $16.000 $3.070 $48.3 42.17 2,826.00
Teck Cominco Ltd. TCK.B TSX $11.930 $18.580 55.74% $49.320 $3.350 $1,910.0 14.83 9,047.00
brand specific, general, historic or technical, Yamana Gold Inc. YRI TSX $9.800 $10.610 8.27% $17.220 $4.290 $282.4 12.99 7,776.00
with links to 30 FHH member brands.
The program is loaded with entertaining GemStones

animations, videos, charts, diagrams and Anglo American PLC AAUK Nasdaq $9.870 $14.840 50.35% $35.606 $6.210 $11,780.0 6.94 39,241.00
photos that inform while generating interest BHP Billiton Limited BHP NYSE $46.560 $55.400 18.99% $86.020 $24.530 $29,780.0 12.7 93,027.00
Diamcor Mining DMI TSX-V $0.170 $0.195 14.71% $0.590 $0.130 N/A N/A 2.00
in fine watches. It includes an exploded view Diamond Fields International DFI TSX $0.035 $0.070 100.00% $0.375 $0.025 $0.1 N/A 3.00
of a mechanical movement and an explanation Dios Exploration DOS TSX-V $0.130 $0.105 -19.23% $0.370 $0.050 N/A N/A 4.00
of each part, plus 11 documentaries on watch Harry Winston Diamond HW TSX $5.150 $7.200 39.81% $30.170 $2.190 $140.8 53.85 551.00
Mountain Province Diamonds MPV TSX $1.290 $1.800 39.53% $5.070 $0.730 N/A N/A 108.00
making’s métiers d’art. Content automatically Moydow Mines Intl Inc MOY TSX $0.100 $0.140 40.00% $0.210 $0.050 N/A N/A 8.00
updates when the batteries are charged via a New Nadina Expls Ltd NNA TSX-V $0.115 $0.110 -4.35% $0.290 $0.075 N/A N/A 3.00
wired Internet connection that also sits on the Rio Tinto RTP NYSE $156.950 $168.950 7.65% $497.500 $59.200 $9,538.0 15.72 42,111.00
Stornoway Diamond SWY TSX $0.180 $0.125 -30.56% $0.365 $0.055 N/A N/A 32.00
sales counter. Sales associates can download Tahera Diamond TAH TSX $0.005 $0.005 0.00% $0.045 $0.005 $5.7 N/A 1.00
training material directly from the brands. The True North Gems TGX TSX-V $0.100 $0.145 45.00% $0.385 $0.050 N/A N/A 10.00
Western Standard Metals WSM TSX-V $0.100 $0.130 30.00% $1.200 $0.050 N/A N/A 0.60
Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie supports
30 high-end member brands with public Jewellers & Retailers
relations support, exhibitions, workshops

Birks & Mayors BMJ AMEX $0.430 $0.600 39.53% $3.200 $0.200 N/A 0.65 7.00
and sales training, and recently implemented Fossil Inc. FOSL Nasdaq $19.520 $23.920 22.54% $32.960 $11.000 $323.0 12.92 1,592.00
an advertising campaign to discourage the Sears Canada SCC TSX $20.750 $20.200 -2.65% $25.000 $15.000 $1,117.4 9.25 2,174.00
public from buying counterfeit watches, with Signet Group SIG NYSE $16.500 $20.820 26.18% $26.500 $5.910 $762.6 N/A 2,032.00
Tiffany & Co. TIF NYSE $28.710 $25.930 -9.68% $45.800 $16.700 $523.1 12.64 3,214.00
a slogan that reads: “Fake watches are for fake Wal-Mart WMT NYSE $47.870 $48.760 1.86% $63.850 $46.250 $94,242.0 14.18 190,792.00
people.” According to Emmanuel Schneider, Zale Corporation ZLC NYSE $4.270 $3.550 -16.86% $42.230 $0.890 $379.1 N/A 114.00
watch@tablet project manager, “Part of the

Commodities
strategy behind Watch@tablet is to replace the
need for consumers to search the Internet for Gold COMX $940.400
Silver COMX $13.860
information on watches by focusing it at one Platinum NYME $1,184.200
source. “We want to help the retailer keep the Copper COMX $230.600
sales in the store.” [CJ]

*This selection of securities is not to be interpreted as a solicitation and companies are not endorsed by Rive Gauche Media.
026-031.CJ_FTR_re.indd 31 7/16/09 2:44:13 PM

miningnews
Rio Tinto Hopes Destocking to the world's second largest primary platinum are subject to an option and joint venture
taper off Drop in Diamond Sales producer, has allocated $1.6-million for agreement between Wallbridge and
Rio Tinto is reportingly weary that its the 2009 exploration program on the Champion Bear Resources.
mines could see further cutbacks if an Parkin Offset dyke properties located in
improvement fails to occur. Bret Clayton, Sudbury. “We appreciate the support of our PolyMet Officials Have High Hopes
Chief Executive of Rio Tinto’s diamond and joint venture partner Impala,” stated Alar for New Type of Mining
copper unit, told the Mining Investment Soever, President of Wallbridge. “Their PolyMet Mining, based in Canada, is hoping
Congress in London that the Company continued contribution to this project that the adjacent Duluth Metals Complex
has cut its diamond production by about a allows us to continue to aggressively explore will create a sustainable, long-term United
quarter due to the downturn and that the these properties in spite of the difficult States source for copper, nickel and other
destocking of the supply chain has largely economic times. The first two holes of the precious metals. Other mining companies
finished. “While we are not anticipating new program, which includes 6,300 meters are also investigating the economics of
a recovery in the market, what we are of diamond drilling, will target two highly mining other parts of the Duluth Complex,
anticipating is normal pull-through of the conductive targets defined by geophysical but the PolyMet project is the only one that
volumes,” he said. He further mentioned surveys during the winter program. The has started the permitting process. PolyMet
that the prices have slid by around 30% Parkin Properties comprise a southern has spent about $20-million so far, which
to 40% and sales of unpolished or rough block of claims held 98.5% by Wallbridge includes preparation of the Environmental
diamonds have collapsed by about 70%. and 1.5% by Xstrata Nickel, a central block Impact Statement (EIS). PolyMet currently
of claims covering the historic Milnet Mine holds the lease to mine a significant portion
Wallbridge Mining Initiates workings owned 100% by Wallbridge. A of the Duluth Metals Complex, which has
2009 Exploration Program northern block of claims and three claims been rated as one of the richest sulfide metal
Wallbridge Mining has announced that its between Wallbridge's southern and Milnet sources of copper, nickel and other precious
partner, Impala Platinum Holdings Limited, claim blocks covering the Brady Showing metals in the world. [CJ]
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Mine manager Keith Bullock said:  “We have decided to
cease operations indefinitely. We will continue to conduct

further geotechnical monitoring at the mine to assess
the full extent of the structural damage and the options
that are available to us.” The Company will be unable to
A MASTER’S access the mine until a further investigation has been
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416-878-6877 it continues to process concentrate from the company’s
mirkoengraving.ca Raglan and Australasian operations.
032.CJ_MiningNews.indd 32 7/16/09 2:35:05 PM

CJ_AUG09_Oneill_Diamonds_Ad.indd
CanadianJeweller.indt 1 1 7/14/09
7/16/09 11:02:38
2:25:04 PM
AM
034-036.CJ_FaceValue.indd 34 7/16/09 3:03:29 PM

facevalue
Golden Rules
The ethics of appraising.
e d u c at Io N a l
By Duncan Parker
I
think of the word “ethics” as a verb. It’s an action word, because it is something we
can practice, and through practice, we can get pretty good at it. By not practicing
it, we can get pretty bad. Most of us do get some practice whenever we can, and
enjoy the results, but simply don’t find the time to get down to it every day.
ever-gorgeous
If you are accredited as a Certified Appraisal Professional (CAP) through the Canadian
Jewellers Association, you are bound by a code of ethics. Many organizations have
established codes of ethics to which members are required to agree in writing.
Codes of ethics are often established in response to a need, such as the existence of
procedures or practices within a field of specialty that have brought about concerns or
complaints within the industry or among those served by the industry. ever-changing
In this case, appraisers are no different from others in the jewellery industry. Clients
bring their purchases to appraisers for verification that they didn’t get “ripped off,”
but don’t want to let goods out of their sight while being appraised. Ironically, we
are seen as the arbiters of truth, yet we are as mistrusted as the jewellers whose
suspected deceit we’re asked to uncover.
It is very helpful, therefore, to let clients know that we are bound by a code of
Forever
ethics. As an appraiser, there are certain ethical standards to observe. Whether you
are a full-time appraiser or just take appraisals in during the course of your retail
business, there are certain standards of practice that should be observed. A code
of ethics helps to make it clear what your basis of practice should be. Here are few
standard practices that you should observe:
• Never cut corners. As appraisers we offer our skills as gemmologists and our
knowledge of jewellery. Cutting corners undermines your professionalism, and you
will lose the respect of your client base. When something arrives in your hands
described as a sapphire, for example, test it, just as you learned in gemmology
school. If it isn’t a sapphire, you’ll be glad you checked and spent those extra few
seconds. If it is a sapphire, you can issue your work with confidence.
let your sales message
• Observe client confidentiality. We sell information, and that information must sustained
be kept exclusively between you and your clients. At Harold Weinstein Laboratory,
we have a few clients who have given us a blanket exemption to release information Brand your store(s)
to anyone who asks. On average, however, we observe a strict ethical practice of
releasing information only to those for whom it was prepared or to someone to Free to consumer
whom we have been given clearance to release it. and free to you
• Don’t let yourself be pushed around. This is where it can get tough to stick to
your program. An appraisal is often used as an independent verification of
identity or quality. An appraiser may receive, in the laboratory, an item
that has a grading or identification report conveniently provided. You
are being asked to provide your independent point of view. You are
asked to be fair and disinterested (but certainly not uninterested).
Ever.3rd.AdsE.indd 2 7/16/09 5:36:27 PM

facevalue
Having been given a grading or identification, however, it is hard not of ethics, but codes of practice. In Canada, we have a code of ethics
to be influenced by that information. You might start to second-guess for CJA, plus there are sets of guidelines that were prepared through
yourself: “I think it’s a VS-1 but they wrote VVS-1; am I being tough?” organizations including the Canadian Gemmological Association, The
Instead, ask yourself: Is it a genuine opinion, or wishful thinking on the Insurance Bureau of Canada and Industry Canada, with widespread
part of the client? How many times do we hear things like, “I agree with trade participation. Among these are “The Guidelines with Respect to
you about the diamond being SI-1, but I didn’t have a VS-1 and that’s the Sale and Marketing of Diamonds, Coloured Gemstones and Pearls,”
what the client wants, so I need it to come up as VS-1.” If you stick to and the “Jewellery Appraisal Guidelines.”
your SI-1 rating, you may not see more work from that client, but if they
respect you, they will accept your honest opinion. Usually such codes of ethics or guidelines are not law, but are accepted
as industry standards. It shouldn’t be law and fear of legal consequences
What is the limit on inf luence that can be brought to bear on the that makes us adhere to codes of ethics, but the knowledge that it is
jewellery appraiser? We are limited to our own moral and ethical codes. morally correct to do so. It is comforting to know, however, that when
We are aware of generally understood ethical codes, but we also need a particular code of ethics or industry guideline is accepted in court,
to be aware of published and accepted codes. The understood codes are it becomes law through observance and acceptance in case law. And
simple things, and aren’t really very different from the written codes: Do finally, here are two tips that are not written down anywhere but should
the right thing, tell the truth, and represent things as they really are. The always be observed:
written codes have been adapted as lessons from common sense, and are • Don’t put people’s jewellery in the paper shredder (this is one I have
so obvious that we don’t really need them printed out, but they serve as observed in the breach).
a reminder, just in case. • Don’t vocalize unpleasant feelings when you take the bracelet off a
sweaty guy’s watch.
Codes of ethics are generally available on web sites of organizations
such as Jeweller’s Vigilance Canada (JVC), or the Accredited Appraiser’s It pays to know and do the right thing. Keep practicing, and you will be
Association (CAP) at the CJA. Sometimes they are not even called codes pleased with the results — it’s very slimming. [CJ]
10. International Amber Fair


CONTACT: 1 800 361 4611 | INFO@J-IFRAH.COM
CJG BUYING SHOW l WESTERN CANADIAN

JEWELLERY EXPO BOOTH #521 l EXPO PRESTIGE
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CJ_AUG09_J.Ifrah_Ad1.indd
Jeweller (KA) raven 1-1.indd 11 7/16/0910:28:32
14.07.2009 2:13:24Uhr
PM
Visualizing the Bridal Market
Mapping out where and what is hot in this traditional market.
By Robin G hambir
s the economy continues to face challenges, jewellers have been focusing To cast some light on this, we used our log data to plot the geographic
more on the bread and butter bridal market. Bridal is the proverbial sure location of consumers who were searching through bridal categories on
thing in jewellery: people get married and then about half of them our network of retailers’ sites. Each balloon on the map represents a
divorce. In what has been observed as “the triumph of hope over experience,” consumer who has browsed a particular category. So when we look
about half of those who divorce remarry. With the advent of same-sex marriage, at these maps, we are looking for two things: distribution and density.
the market has grown further; all of which is good news for jewellers. So one Distribution shows us where the consumers come from, and when we
might think that anywhere there are people, there is a market for engagement look at density, we are looking at where these balloons are most clumped
rings and wedding bands. That is mostly true. Within those categories are together. We do this because this can show us where the market is more
many combinations and permutations of designs, metals and diamonds. concentrated for that category.
036-038.CJ_MarketWatch.indd 38 7/16/09 2:55:44 PM

marketwatch
So to start, we mapped out engagement rings made from gold. And then we plotted
engagement rings made with Canadian diamonds, which has a similar distribution in
Canada but a lighter density, which would indicate that this is a smaller but significant
portion of the engagement ring market across Canada. Now compare both of these maps
with the platinum engagement ring category, which represents a much smaller part of the
market and one that is more concentrated in urban areas. Then we wondered, since many
engagement rings can also be worn as right-hand rings, how that market looked. As you
can see, it's surprisingly large and pretty evenly distributed across the country. Given that
women are more affluent and choose to marry later than in previous generations, the right-
Get Your
hand ring market has seen steady growth.
Industry News
What else did we find? Well, there's a very large market for wedding bands with diamonds
but a pretty small one for platinum wedding bands. We were also surprised that the number Delivered Every Day
one item in our top ten engagement rings category wasn't a solitaire and wasn't made out of
white gold — two long-standing trends (see page 40). The remainder of the list showed the Via E-Mail
continued strong trend towards white metal and the influence of pavé-set rings that have
been prevalent for the last few years.
Go to Canadianjeweller.com
To read more about the current trends and designs in the bridal category, turn to page 66
and find out how you can reap the benefits. [CJ]
Or Fill
Wedding Bands with Diamonds
E-mail Address:
First Name:
Last Name:
Company Name/Store name:
Fax to: 1-888-849-0155
Engagement Rings made with Canadian Diamonds
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Golden Ambition
Jomark brings the best in Italian design to Canadian retailers.
B y Sarah B. H ood
S
ince the time of the Renaissance, Italy has been a world bringing a painting to a museum; you simply
leader in arts and design, from apparel to automobiles and don’t think of the price. We’re the first to see the
film to furniture. Italy is also a world leader in jewellery trends and we’re the first to bring the trends, and LeGi gold
design, and Jomark Italgold Ltd. is a leader in delivering the the people who jump aboard with us are going to be necklace with
latest in Italian design trends to the Canadian retailer. the leaders.” checkerboard
cut quartz.
Based in Woodbridge, Ontario, Jomark is an importer and Di Scola attributes part of his company’s success to the fact
wholesaler specializing in 18-karat Italian fine gold jewellery. that he has been able to stay ahead of the curve for many
Owner John Di Scola has been in the jewellery business for years by consistently attending the Vicenza Fair. Vicenza,
20 years. In the beginning, he ran a distribution company out held three times a year, was already considered to be a key
of the Niagara region, specializing in direct sales. After being date on the international calendar. In 2009, the fair began
introduced to a number of Italian gold wholesalers, he quickly the process of going through a major reorganization to
established relationships with manufacturers in Vicenza and further position itself as an industry-leading event.
Arezzo, Italy. Today, he serves a roster of clients among the
large- to medium-sized Independent jewelers across Canada. In the past, the three annual shows did not differ much
in structure. As of this year, they are much more strongly
Of his tenure in the industry, Di Scola says there are “no bad differentiated. The January edition, the first international
parts,” but his favourite aspect is simply being able to work with gold jewellery fair of the year, targets buyers and large
the jewellery all day long, because of the beauty and desire of wholesale trade groups to showcase the first collections
gold products. “We have a real passion for bringing quality of the year. In May, the spotlight moves primarily to
goods from overseas,” Di Scola says. “Sometimes we don’t even fashion and design, while in September the fair focuses
look at price; we just look at the beauty of the items. It’s like on consumer trends, sector issues and customer service.
040-042.CJ_Company.indd 42 7/16/09 12:51:19 PM

companyprofile
“andJewellery sales are very personal; basically, you fall in love with a piece
you have to buy it. There will always be business for the mom-and-
pop shops.
”
Increasingly, Vicenza is linking itself with satellite events, such as last

February’s inaugural “About J,” a networking event for manufacturers and
buyers in Milan.
Attendance at all three Vicenza shows every year, says Di Scola, allows
him to be “the first to pick and deliver the finest gold jewellery to Canada.”
Internationally, he says, “Italian merchandise has been the leader in quality
until now. They’re innovative in colour and design; they are leaders in
fashion and leaders in quality.”
Jomark handles numerous lines, including plain gold, as well as pieces

with precious and semiprecious stones. “We pull from the best of each
product,” says Di Scola. “We carry everything from A-to-Z, including
chains, crosses, cufflinks and pendants. We have probably the best
collection of hoop earrings that you can get in Italy. We bring the whole
package to the retailer, whereas, if they go to Vegas, they can get only one
or two retailers. With what we bring back, you could literally open up
a store.”
Di Scola is especially proud to be able to offer the luxury brand LeGi.

Based in Vicenza since 1838, LeGi is one of the oldest manufacturers
in the area. The company, named for the initials of the father and son
who founded the business, manufactures three lines: LeGi, Prêt à Porter
Jewelry (whose spokeswomen include Claudia Schiffer and Naomi
Campbell), and Zoccai. LeGi produces “mostly coloured stones with pink
gold: amethysts, citrine, pink quartz, smoky quartz,” says Di Scola. The
look of the line is distinctively Italian in its luminous use of pale colours
in exquisitely chosen combination, with a light, flowing design line.
Italian designers were among the first to start working with pink gold,
“which has been very strong,” Di Scola points out. He says he believes LeGi gold drop earrings with
that demand for the pink metal is poised to grow here in North America. checkerboard cut quartz.
“We’re starting to see the sales come through, but still we haven’t seen
them come through as they have in the yellow and the white metal. Pink
is a sleeper that will bloom,” he predicts.

companyprofile
LeGi bracelet with various

colours of quartz.
LeGi gold rings with checkerboard

cut quartz.
Another coming trend is “lighter-weight gold,” he says. “For example, the hoop earrings,” Di Scola
earrings we have are the lightest for the size. The trend is to go lighter. Even says. “Classic ladies’ gold
LeGi has to make their product considerably lighter and more affordable bracelets and basic chains have
than the next guy, even though they’re a designer brand. It’s all about price been selling for hundreds of years, not
point. It’s not that people aren’t going to buy some big, expensive gold just tens of years. The basics always sell through.”
pieces, but definitely, the industry trend would be lighter.”
The strongest pieces of wisdom that Di Scola would offer retailers would
Di Scola says he doubts the price of gold will drop very much in future: “I be that “they have to invest in themselves and invest in their businesses.
would think gold will be stabilized around this price or higher,” he says. Give as much selection as possible and stay current with the new trends
Therefore, he predicts, “due to the rising price of the commodity and the that will excite the customer when they come in. Even in these times,
increasing value of product lines, we see the future in bringing exciting things come in and things go out.”
new products that are trend-setting and relatively lighter in weight.” He
also sees the company and the industry “diversifying by going into unique Internet sales should not be ignored, he says, but there will always be an
jewellery with coloured stones and pink 18-karat gold to attract a younger, important place for the brick-and-mortar shop. “Internet jewellery sales
more savvy consumer.” will always take a piece of it, because people will think they’re getting value,
but I think a lot of people will be disappointed at the end of the day, whereas
For the retailer, he says, “The biggest problem is cost of inventory. in the brick-and-mortar stores you can try it on; you can see it. Jewellery
They tend to hold back a little, but they have to focus on inventory. The sales are very personal; basically, you fall in love with a piece and you have
smaller places are scaling back, but the key is a diversified selection of to buy it. There will always be business for the mom-and-pop shops.”
merchandise. And gold will never go stale; there may be a style or colour
that’s trendy one year and not the next, but gold never goes out of style, As for his own company, Di Scola says, “we plan to continually expand
so the risk is minimal. After all,” he says, “people who invested in pieces our lines and open new doors to people and jewellers who appreciate gold
three years or four years ago are doing very well now.” from the finest Italian artisans. We have a great service; we have great
style. That’s the key to our success. We continue to grow year after year.
Certain classic gold pieces are essential and eternal. “Your basic bread- Last year was our best year ever, in the middle of an economic storm. So
and-butter gold earrings are always going to be in fashion, especially we’re doing something right.” [CJ]

WWW. THOMASSABO.COM l CONTACT: 1 800 361 461 l INFO@J-IFRAH.COM
CHARM UP YOUR TIME
CJG BUYING SHOW | WESTERN CANADIAN JEWELLERY EXPO BOOTH #521 | EXPO PRESTIGE BOOTH #327 | JCK TORONTO BOOTH #907
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Jeweller (KA) charm schw 1-1.indd 1 7/16/09 10:28:57
14.07.2009 2:15:40 Uhr
PM
A Cut
Above
From local ambassadors to fundraisers, Pat Thompson
puts community first on the East Coast.
B y Carol B esler
Photography By Greg Locke
P
at Thompson, owner of Diamond Design in St. John’s, Newfoundland, is unavailable at the time
I am scheduled to interview him for this story because he has rushed out to attend the funeral
of a client’s father. This seems to illustrate perfectly his philosophy of retailing: “My jewellery
store is about relationships – genuine relationships between my business and the clients we serve.” To
Thompson, it would be unthinkable to miss an important milestone of any client, be it celebratory or
otherwise, and whether it involves jewellery or not. One of his most memorable in-store experiences
was the time a mother of a six-year-old boy who as killed in a traffic accident came in to have a ring
made in honour of his memory. “I was never so complimented,” says Thompson. “She chose to do that
in my store. I felt that it was a huge statement of trust in us.” (It also stands as evidence of the power of
retail therapy, a comforting thought for any retailer who thought jewellery was meant to commemorate
only happy milestones). This concept of relationship marketing is the principle behind Thompson’s
store branding strategy. “Relationship marketing focuses on things like trust and commitment and
from there, everything flows,” says Thompson, “charity, philanthropy, direct mail, advertising, in-
store events, POS marketing — my aim is to have our clients refer to our store as ‘my jeweller’.”
046-051.CJ_CoverStory.indd 46 7/16/09 4:38:23 PM

coverstory

Family Ties
Thompson has given his “brand” a lot of thought over the years. His father
and grandfather were both watchmakers, first by servicing the marine
chronometers on the ships sailing in and out of the Port of St. John’s, a
trade that evolved into retailing. “My family’s firm was ultimately focused
on the middle market, as was common from the 1950s to 1980s,” says
Thompson. “With the advent of the malls, this became a cluttered market
segment. I had a strong personal feel for the upper end of the jewellery
market, so I decided to set out on my own and open Diamond Design.”
“Apart from supporting a large number of charities in and around St.

John’s, my wife and I personally attend 12 to 15 fundraisers a year. We
support these charities with merchandise and financial donations. This
helps in several ways, as it serves to highlight our brands, positions the
jewellery in front of our clients and allows me to make new personal
contacts in a non-sales environment. Giving back to the community is a
strategic part of our public relations strategy.”
Although he carries many high-end brands – including Rolex,

TAG Heuer, Soho, Bellari, Fabergé, Simon G, Breuning and Asch
Grossbrardt – Thompson’s second-most important principle is that
no one brand can be bigger than the Diamond Design store brand. Pavé-set diamond hoops by Max Strauss (Backes & Strauss).

coverstory
“Diamond
[I also believe in] maintaining a visible presence in my store so that
Design clients know that I am available to assist if need be,
I don’t need to sell everything, but I feel it’s important for my clients to
know that I am close by.
”
Guilloché egg pendants with with transulcent

coloured enamel, in 18k gold, by Fabergé.
Rolex might have its ambassadors from the international arena, but Another key to success is using a premium jewellery computer
Diamond Design has gathered testimonials from more local heroes. management platform (Executive) to assist in tracking, stratifying
Thompson has signed on several “ambassadors” to appear in a regional and identifying client opportunities. “[I also believe in] maintaining
ad campaign – St. John's natives who have made their mark outside the a visible presence in my store so that Diamond Design clients know
community, including Danny Cleary of the Detroit Red Wings, artist that I am available to assist if need be,” he notes. “I don’t need to sell
Mary Pratt, Newfoundland Symphony Orchestra Concert Master Alison everything, but I feel it’s important for my clients to know that I am
Black, Blues musician Denis Parker and Olympic Gold Medalist Brad close by.” The same courtesy extends to his whole team. “All my sales
Gushue all appear in ad campaigns and at in-store events. They are given people are chosen for their ‘helper’ personalities and not specifically for
the option of taking a fee themselves for appearing in the campaign or their jewellery knowledge. I can always teach them about jewellery, but
having Thompson make a donation to their favourite charities. “Some of I can’t make them nice people.” To make sure staff are on par and that
them, for example Mary Pratt, would never consider doing something everything functions well, the team holds formal and informal meetings
like this otherwise,” says Thompson. He adds: “The campaign is all about three or four times a week. “Communication flow is imperative for our
how these people stand out in their chosen fields, and by association, so people to be aware of everything that is happening in the jewellery
does Diamond Design.” industry in real time.” Other incentives include generous remuneration
above the retail norm: “This allows me to do two things, attract the best
Keys to Success people available and set high performance expectations. I give each of
Thompson notes several endeavours that help the store stand out, including my staff total control over meeting and exceeding client expectations.
“carrying brands that create an experience for all of my clients.” Pat also Accountability for client satisfaction rests with my sales people, from
hosts invitation-only events four or five times a year, including intimate repair jobs to diamond sales. They all do a great job,” says Thompson.
dinner parties. “This fosters strong ongoing relationships with our clients. Furthermore, when circumstances permit, he flies staff to jewellery
From our database of 10,000, we're able to invite exactly whom we are shows (they can’t drive from Newfoundland) because he wants “sales
targeting for each specific event.” people who have a career, not a job.”

“current
The real possibility that gold may take a quantum jump due to the
economic uncertainty. This can have a significant impact on
how we sell and how our industry manufactures. Stability is key.
”
Smart and Calculated Choices

Pavé-set diamond circles Of course, none of the above is relevant, particularly at the high end, without
in 18k white and rose carefully chosen and managed merchandise. Thompson’s merchandising
gold, by Simon G.
strategy is one of the most unique in Canada in that, even with his policy
of maintaining a large inventory of brands and choosing brands that offer
new collections every season (regardless of the fact that he does no memo),
Thompson says he has never had a “sale” in all his 18 years in business. He
acknowledges, “we have ends of lines,” but he handles them this way: “We
note in our database which pieces have been admired, but not purchased,
by which clients. After a few months, by the time it becomes old inventory,
there might be, say, seven people listed for a piece. From there, it’s a one-
on-one transaction. We’re honest – we say, ‘Look, this is an end of line, and
we will discount to you as a thank-you for your business.’ They take it as a
compliment. I have sold down all of my inventory this way,” says Thompson.
Today’s Tomorrow
When asked what Thompson sees as the top issue facing retail jewellers
today, he chooses two, both of which are notably beyond the retailer’s
immediate control:
Firstly: “The real possibility that gold may take a quantum jump due to the
current economic uncertainty. This can have a significant impact on how
we sell and how our industry manufactures. Stability is key.”
Secondly: “Wildly fluctuating currencies stand to wreak havoc with

purchasing decisions both from a wholesale and retail perspective; 15% to
25% swings destabilize our industry. I know of a manufacturer this year that
lost in excess of a million dollars profit on the dollar swing last fall. This is
not good for our industry.”
Thompson leaves the impression that there have been few missteps in
building the Diamond Design brand, and it’s evident he’s come a long way
with conscious effort and sound business choices. “I am often asked to
speak at Memorial University’s business school to discuss retail marketing
strategies with graduating commerce students and MBA classes. I'm all
about telling my story to anyone who'll listen.”
Despite all the good, Pat does admit to a recent blunder on the sales floor.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual
GMT-Master in 18k gold A woman and her husband were shopping for rings, and after noticing her
and stainless steel. protruding stomach, Thompson asked, “When are you expecting?” He
replied, “I think my heart just stopped when she looked up at me and said,
‘I’m not pregnant.’” All in a day’s work. [CJ]

coverstory

showfeature
Refined and
Reformed
All the happenings from JCK Las Vegas.
B y Paul A guirre
W
hen Jeff Immelt, Chair and Chief Executive Officer of GE, The VIP Buyers
commented to a Toronto crowd that we were in the midst of Program in particular
a “reset,” not a recession, he must have just come back from was a raging success,
Vegas. At this year’s string of shows (JCK, Couture, Luxury), there was generating over $360,000
little open talk of the recession. I myself tried to steer clear of the topic, in buying activity at
opting to focus on what designers and companies are doing to revive the show, apart from
and reinvent their brands and offerings. What is evident, however, is that the hundreds of millions
people are prepared to move forward and continue doing what they do of dollars made on the show
best: designing, promoting and selling. floor exclusive of the program.
In a luxe exclusive lounge, the
A Complete Success program provided an enjoyable way to
Dave Bonaparte, Group Vice President of JCK Events, confirms the purchase new merchandise, with a plethora
sentiments that were heard on the show floor, networking sessions of incentives, including a concierge and a $1,000
and educational program: despite all that’s going on in the economy, merchandise credit to be used with manufactures on the floor. The
JCK was deemed a success. “Las Vegas or lady luck had nothing to do “Super Tuesday Stimulus Program” offered the first 77 retailers who
with the success of the 18th annual JCK event,” he notes. “Given the produced an invoice received an American Express gift cheque worth
challenging retail environment, JCK Las Vegas responded to the industry $200. “Productive networking and business activity harnessed industry
as a catalyst for buying activity between 2,700 international and domestic optimism and offered special events and educational programming
manufacturers and all retail categories with a robust VIP retailer program to spread best practices and insight to accelerate economic recovery,”
and daily sweepstakes to stimulate purchases.” continued Bonaparte.
On The Floor
There was a definite buzz on the sales floor this year, with collections
reflecting the direction of the jewellery industry: refined with classic
luxury, creating pieces that reflect the necessity of the purchase, not just
the desire. It seems to strike most, like with any other commodity or
luxury purchase, that a piece needs to add something to one’s personal
collection, it’s not simply enough to look pretty anymore. With buyers
thinking carefully about their purchases, and the reduced budgets most
brought along, it was evident that designers were pulling all the stops,
with decadent designs screaming “you want me.”
One brand really took conceptualization to a whole new level. Sabido &
Basteris, a tiny booth located in the Italian custom jewellery pavilion and
headed in Mexico, debuted some stunning pieces out of dyed silver and
fossilized rocks, expressing a very natural approach to craftsmanship
Sterling silver bamboo-motif bangles set with gemstones, from Thistle & Bee. Prices start and ingenuity. Although not available in Canada yet, the brand boasts
at $550 retail. creative centerpiece necklaces that really tell a story.
052-055.CJ_JCKVegas.indd 52 7/16/09 1:21:33 PM

Floral Collection
High-End Fashion Jewellery & Loose Diamonds

Nova Diamonds Inc.
221 Victoria St. Lower Level
Toronto, Ontario, Canada, M5B 1V4
Phone: 416-868-6682 Fax: 416-868-0666
Mirage_Nova_Ad_2.indd 1 7/16/09 2:26:59 PM

The Designs
In terms of design aesthetic, it seemed that Vegas really set
the tone for a new era of affordable designs, from construction
to material usage and beyond. The concentration of
Sterling Silver
jewellery designers from around the world makes the spring
Doublets
shows in Las Vegas – JCK, Couture, Luxury and others –
an ideal place to confirm trends for the coming fall season.
The most obvious direction in fine jewellery is affordable
price points – silver, bridge and bridal are the buzzwords,
Off-Coloured Diamonds
including collections that are scaled down and set with
smaller gemstones. Quartz and amethyst are filling in as
primary centre stones, and there is a growing presence of
opal and moonstone – both of which are being used more
often in modern designs by firms that do for those gems
Opal
what companies like Yvel have done for the modernization
of pearl jewellery. Doublets are a big part of the quartz trend
– fusing large quartz gems, often with top facets, over a flat
Briolettes and top facets

layer of turquoise, lapis, coral or other mineral – something
British designer Stephen Webster has been doing for years
on the basis that, aside from affordability, it’s just a great
Moonstone
look. Briolettes, diamond cuts, top facets, irregular shapes,

off-color diamonds and random cuts are also strong
gemstone trends. – Carol Besler
Doublets: Doublet ring with quartz and turquoise, from the Crystal Haze collection by Stephen Webster. Rough-cut, off-color diamonds: Rough-cut diamond Flower ring from
Nina Runsdorf. Moonstone: Moonstone and blue sapphire “easter egg” ring by Erica Courtney. Sterling Silver: From the Superstud collection by Stephen Webster. Opal: Lady
Lavender ring by Katherine Jetter, who specializes in Australian opal. Briolettes and Top Facets: The Juicybugs collection with briolette gems, by Stephen Webster.
Indeed, the natural/organic-inspired trend was seen heavily on the floor, a Platinum and gold were also high-profile this year, with the World
return to earthly inspiration in the design process. In particular, Pandora Gold Council’s booth promoting its members in an epic way, featuring
and Swarovski (whose Fall collection I got a sneak peak of one day before displays and a tower-like structure fit to represent the allure and
JCK), introduced lines with wooden influences, with brown, purple and illustrious history of the metal. The Platinum Pavilion, sponsored by
blue as highlight colours. Pandora, which launched an eco-collection the Platinum Guild International, was big on encouraging platinum
with some wooden elements as well as its first fine jewellery 18k gold bridal to boost sales and build customer loyalty. This year’s theme,
collection (LovePods), had much to celebrate in Vegas. “Our inspiration aptly enough, was “Platinum Commitment from Around the World.”
for LovePods came from shapes found in nature, especially the structure Accordingly, display cases featured the best in platinum bridal from
of flower pods with beautiful curves and rich bursts of colour,” noted top brands. According to the Guild, “designers exhibiting at the show
Marketing Director Jody Christian when speaking of natural influences. stayed focused and committed to their bridal business by returning to
Apart from a recent victory in a patent lawsuit, the Company also opened the classics, highlighting their best sellers, and in the end, retailers and
its first store in Forum Shops at Caesars Palace with a brilliant party. Elvis consumers bought.” Signage was big for PGI this year, as “retailers have
and showgirls were on hand, with complimentary chocolate poker chips, reported that in-store platinum signage as well as other visual prompts
Pandora-branded playing cards and bubbly all around. The 1,000-square- have driven conversations leading to increased platinum sales,” noted
foot store joins only a handful of locations in the U.S., carrying all the Michelle Peranteau, Manager of Marketing Communications at PGI.
lines and charms that made them famous, with prices ranging from $25
to $1,000 for each piece. There was even a special, limited-edition dice The Tech Buzz
charm that was brought in exclusively for the store. “We’ve had great This year’s show also saw a huge assortment of technology-driven
success with the Pandora line for several years and are excited to open a booths designed to make retailing and the online market a no-brainer,
branded store,” noted owner Donny Borsack. for the experienced and inexperienced alike. A major innovation was

jcklasvegas
tIoNal
INspIr a
“So we might never return to pre-recession numbers or

sales bliss… but it’s refreshing to know, and inspiring to
see, that the industry still cares about the elegance and
beauty of jewellery. ”
every thing
Stuller’s Live Diamond Try-On iPhone mobile application that allowed users
to photograph their hand and upload the picture into the application. Then,
choosing from Stuller’s diamond and settings collection, users were able to
create their ideal ring as well as a spec sheet. They could even ‘place’ the ring
on the photographed finger and send the picture to all their friends and family
for opinion. everlasting
New kid on the block, Waterloo, Ontario-based emForium, managed to also
start a buzz on its soon-to-be-launched online retailing project for retailers
called All-In. “Jewellers are clearly ready for a more advanced and cost effective
technology to meet the demands of consumers and manufacturers. We were
confident the market would embrace our new platform and Las Vegas confirmed
that our instincts were correct,” commented Amber Klaehn, Product Manager
for the Company. “The industry has long been aware of technology, but a shift is
Nevermore
occurring and there is currently serious interest. Jewellery and technology used to
be viewed separately. Now, the industry has discovered that technology enhances
the jewellery and customer experience and jewellers are looking to technology
as a solution to help them manage through challenging times. Technology was
definitely in style at this year’s show.” Many were also Twittering live from
the shows (CJ included), offering up-to-the-minute happenings, pictures and
comments on the show; just another way the industry is growing in strides when
it comes to allowing itself to work with technology.
Going Forward
So we might never return to pre-recession numbers or sales bliss (at least not
anytime soon) as per Jeff Immelt, but it’s refreshing to know, and inspiring to
see, that the industry still cares about the elegance and beauty of jewellery. It’s let your sales message
also comforting to know the one thing that drives retailers, manufactures and sustained
designers alike to keep producing and going forward is not money, but passion.
“Although it has been a tough year for the retail jewellery industry, JCK Las Brand your store(s)
Vegas delivered to retailers and manufacturers an efficient and effective way to do
business,” comments Bonaparte. “Manufacturers reported having very positive Free to consumer
results at this year’s event by meeting with serious buyers who were looking for and free to you
new and fresh inventory to take back to their stores.”
So let us usher in a new era of jewellery retailing and designing, one focused not
only on tried and true luxury, but also one based on the refinement and self-
reflection that comes from these so-called “resets.” Throw in consumer-driven
technological innovations, and the jewellery industry is set to keep going strong
and keep getting better. [CJ]

silverfeature
Silver Lining
As consumers tighten their belts and the cost of noble
metals soars, sterling silver comes into its own. Pandora’s “promise set”
features earrings, necklace
and ring all in lavender
By Sarah B. Hood enamel with CZ.
C
autious consumers may be deferring gold and platinum GFMS also foresees decline in demand, partly
purchases, but they’re taking a second look at silver. These days, driven by the weak manufacturing sector
fresh fashion and design trends are giving silver a new place of and partly by the decline in photographic
prominence. Now is the time to make a little extra space in the showroom use of silver. In 2008, jewellery demand
for a stunning display of fine sterling silver pieces. “fell for the fifth consecutive year by just
above 3%.” Silver jewellery is expected
Although it will never soar to the heady heights of gold or platinum, to decline a little more this year, but it is
the price of silver has seen a lot of movement recently. Until 2003, the interesting to note that the fabrication of
price tended to hover around an annual average of $5 USD per ounce. It silver coins and medals grew by 63% last
began a steady rise in 2004, and in March 2008, driven by investment, it year in response to an interest in investment
saw a high of $20.92 USD. A decline followed, but 2009 has seen another pieces, especially the US Mint’s Silver Eagle
steady rise. The World Silver Survey, released by GFMS and The Silver bullion coin.
Institute in May 2009, predicts prices of $11.50 USD to $14.30 USD for
the middle of the year, with a probable rise in the fourth quarter. In 2008, The Silver Institute launched the Silver Marketing Initiative
(SMI), an offshoot organization headed by Michael Barlerin (former
GFMS reports that “global silver mine production grew by 2.5% in CEO of the World Gold Council) that promotes and markets sterling
2008… representing the sixth year of consecutive growth,” noting that silver jewellery. The SMI has begun to appear at major trade shows, and
Peru was the world leader in production, followed by Mexico, China, is expanding the SavorSilver website, among other initiatives.
Australia, and Chile. Meanwhile, Bolivia produced more than twice
the previous year’s output, and Russia’s production grew by 24%. Mine And there are success stories in the Canadian retail silver market,
production is expected to drop off slightly in 2009, as is scrap supply, due many who have floated under the radar. For example, as of July 1, 2009,
to the phasing out of photographic film processing. Thomas Sabo International and J. Ifrah Ltd. have combined as TSMI Ltd.
054-058.CJ_Silver_re.indd 56 7/17/09 12:02:13 PM

The brightest star in living skies.
Greater Scintillation | Maximum Brilliance | Greater Visual Appeal
(306) 763-3388 tel (306) 763-4488 fax

P.O. Box 1374, Prince Albert, SK S6V 5S9
1203 Central Avenue, Prince Albert, SK S6V 4V9
www.maskwaoteh.com
CJ_AUG09_Maskwa_Oteh_Ad.indd 1 7/16/09 2:28:17 PM

silverfeature
2.
3.
1. 4.
1. Stuller drop earrings with pearl.

2. A pear-shape Blue Topaz ring by Lorenzo.
3. Pandora’s sterling silver circle of friends ring
incorporates multi-colored CZ.
5.
4. Stuller silver ring.
5. Cabochon Turquoise ring by Lorenzo.
The company is launching its first of a planned series of retail outlets with “We’ve developed a very strong brand, and there’s a big demand for
a Thomas Sabo flagship store in Rosemere, Quebec, due to open in mid- our brand,” says Pandora’s VP Canada Glenn Reinecke. “We like to
September. In 2010, a Thomas Sabo watch line is expected for Canada. call it affordable luxury. For jewellers that are carrying our product,
Pandora is becoming a bigger percentage of their sales. It appears to be
“This is great news both for us and Thomas Sabo,” says Philippe Hazen, bucking the trend.” Like Thomas Sabo, Pandora targets a wide range
CEO of TSMI. “It’s the 25th year of Thomas Sabo, and we’ve been of consumers with retail price points from $30 to $400 (CAD) and a
experiencing some above-average national and international growth.” collectible appeal. “Beads and bracelets are the cornerstone of our
The Thomas Sabo Sterling Silver Collection, designed by Susanne Kölbli, product line,” he says.
features three lines in a wide range of styles and price points. The casual
Rebel at Heart line is “full of glamour, passion and sex appeal,” says Michael Clarke, Business VP, Finished Jewelry for U.S.-based Stuller
Hazen. Motifs like skulls and dragons appeal to the inner rock star in Inc., says that sterling silver has recently “come to the forefront both
youthful consumers. as a fashion offering and as price-point satisfier for our customers” in
larger pieces, such as oversize baroque cuffs, rings and earrings. “Our
The Seasonal line is geared to current trends, taking inspiration from customers are able to take a very long margin because of the quality,”
the beach, Asian themes, Flower Power and so on, rendered in sterling he says. “It was an important lesson for us that we cannot compromise
silver with amethysts and other coloured stones. The Classic Collection, the weight or the quality in favour of price.”
– also youthful – includes “things that never go out of style”: chains,
heart pendants, simple rings in silver and gemstones. Since 2006, the “Silver looks good and it’s affordable,” says Reinecke. “Traditionally it
collectible Thomas Sabo Charm Club has been attracting increasing has been the second grade to gold, but it’s grown into more than that.
attention; 2008 saw the introduction of licensed Disney character You are also getting tungsten and stainless steel jewellery that’s very
charms that are always in style. popular right now; it’s added value to silver.”
Pandora Jewelry Ltd., is also about to launch its own branded mall-based This year we’ve expanded it with charms, so we can have the price point
stores through its retail partners, with the first slated for a September from $15 USD wholesale. Our best seller is a pair of starfish earrings
opening in Thornhill, Ontario. Downtown Toronto, Edmonton and with freshwater pearls at $40 wholesale.” There is also a Stuller Swirl
Calgary are likely next locations. collection, which features silver salted with diamonds.

August 12th - 14th August 23rd - 25th August 30th & 31st Sept 13th - 15th
Western Canadian Jewelry Expo Expo Prestige 2009 JCK JCK
Edmonton Quebec Montreal Vancouver Toronto
Booth #304 Booth # 704 Booth # 812 Booth # 811
CJ_AUG09_Zenghani_Ad.indd 1 7/16/09 2:17:51 PM

silverfeature
Stuller men’s silver chain.

Judy Richards, owner and president of Davidson’s Jewellers in Ottawa,
says she was excited to discover the Seattle-based Lorenzo line of fine
silver jewellery combined with 18k gold and a range of gemstones
including amethyst, citrine, garnet, blue topaz and peridot. “We’ve
been very successful with high-end silver, and we were looking at Silver Advertisers in this Issue
a retail price point between $200 and $600,” she says. “Also, we are
finally seeing the arrival of the trend for big coloured stones.” Richards AV Diamonds
dedicated a showcase to the collection. “The response has been great,” t: 866.283.4367
w: www.pricepointleader.com
she says. “Having the accent of a little yellow gold appeals to people who
normally buy silver, and people who are used to buying white gold see Best Bargains
it as fine jewellery.” t: 800.661.4871
w: www.bbjw.com
Appealing and creative feature displays are helping sell silver collections.
“The store has to be a bit of adventure and a bit of fantasy,” says Clarke. Boma
“The brick-and-mortar store will win hands-down over the internet, t: 866.366.2662
because it’s much more exciting. If a customer walks into a location – w: www.bomasilver.com
street or mall – and starts to get a story of jewellery wardrobing or how CGM
pieces are mixed and matched, that adds to the adventure experience t: 818.609.7088
that customers are looking for.” w: www.cgmfindings.com
Reinecke says he also has “definitely seen an improvement where our House of Jewellery
full range of products is merchandised in one display case. When our t: 800.668.4422
retail partners had the beads on one side of the store and other jewellery w: www.houseofjewellery.com
on the other, there was a total disconnect; when we connected it, there
J Ifrah
was a great improvement. In today’s market,” he adds, “a lot of sales t: 800.361.4611
are made because of very good branding, and very good branding is w: www.j-ifrah.com
successful because of very good product. The jewellery industry is in
decline, but good brands are not.” Lotus
t: 877.593.0922
“It’s not about the sterling silver; it’s about the choice you’re giving to the w: www.lotusjewel.com
customer,” says Hazen. “You have to put the heart into it and have the
Optimum
quality and the design that customers demand.” [CJ] t: 418.873.2926
Pandora
t: 410.309.0200
w: www.pandora-jewelry.com
Rousseau
t: 250.655.9199
w: www.rousseauchain.com
Stuller
t: 337.262.7700
w: www.stuller.com
Trendy Group
t: 905.326.5981
Stuller silver bracelet. w: www.thetrendygroup.com

DIAROUGH_PUB_CJB_an_09:Layout 1 7/3/09 12:35 PM Page 1
NATURE’S
GREATEST
BEAUTY
SOMETIMES
LIES BENEATH
THE SURFACE
Toll free: 1 877 490.8499 (Canada and US)

info@diaroughcanada.com | www.diaroughcanada.com
Western Canadian Jewellery Show Edmonton booth #721 Montreal Expo Prestige booth #626
CJ_AUG09_Diarough_Ad.indd 1 7/16/09 2:02:49 PM

Wrist Worthy A collection of fall’s newest watch styles
that will have consumers swooning in awe.
By Paul A guirre
SPORT & CASUAL

Whether it’s a relaxing evening or a night on the town,
these styles will take you from work to play — and day to night.
Frédérique Constant Healey

Chrono-Automatic
Longines GrandeVitesse
To commemorate Healey
Chronograph 24h
Challenge 2009 in Kingston,
In a sleek stainless steel with
Ontario, Frédérique Constant
tachymeter on the bezel, this
introduces this limited edition
model is intended for the bolder
(1,888 numbered to be exact)
among today’s sportsmen. The
timepieces. The 43mm rounded
case is impressive at 44mm with
case is in steel with a stylish
a sporty aspect emphasized
silvered dial with blue accents,
by the non-slip surface of the
the official logo of the event is
crown, the caseband and the
engraved on the case back with
push-pieces. We’re especially
an aperture to offer a glimpse
admiring the dark brown leather
of the automatic movement.
strap lined with alcantara and
The brand already has a huge
fitted with a folding clasp.
following in Asia, so look for
($3,400)
them to make waves in Canada
in the coming months. ($1,550)
OMEGA Aqua Terra Co-Axial

GMT Seamaster
New for fall, this addition is Mühle-Glashütte The Mühle
available either in 18k red gold S.A.R. Rescue Timer
or in stainless steel with a choice With an effortless design,
of a matching gold bracelet or a and the legendary precision
brown alligator strap integrated of this newly-launched in
into the case. The polished, Canada brand, the S.A.R.
brushed 44mm case is water Rescue Timer represents
resistant and while distinctive dependability whatever the
design features might evoke life situation — whether at sea or
on luxury boats, it fits perfectly going to the limits of extreme
into the contemporary lifestyle. sports. Nothing can shake this
($8,900) timepiece. ($2,420)
060-063.CJ_Watch Roundup.indd 62 7/16/09 11:46:59 AM

watchroundup
CLASSIC
A classic watch, much like a suit, will always be in style, so offer these
pieces with timeless appeal.
TW Steel CEO
Canteen Collection
Citizen Eco-Drive Silhouette
This brand is gaining global
With a name fitting the
recognition, and this model
woman who wears it, this
in particular experienced a
watch boasts a svelte stainless
surprising sales interest after
steel platinum-tone case and
JCK Las Vegas. With a brown
is outlined with 34 diamonds
Italian leather strap, Grade A
and enhanced by a mother-
rose gold case and chronograph
of-pearl dial and cabochon
dial, this model expresses
crown. (starting at $575)
simplicity and elegance that
place it far above its modest
price point. ($675)
Bertolucci Bella Costa

With an all stainless steel TAG Heuer The Carrera
black PVD case, this unisex Calibre 5 Automatic
chronograph is a unique Available this September, this
expression you’ve come to unique reinvention offers a
expect from Bertolucci. It brown dial and steel bracelet,
features 11 Arabic numerals, reminding us why the classic
black rubber strap on folding Carrera was so successful.
clasp and patterned black dial. I predict this to be the ‘it’ watch
Without being excessive, it among celebs this fall. ($2,100)
makes the perfect gift. ($1,600)

LUXE
Those who can’t help but be loud and lavish will indulge in these stunningly
sophisticated yet simple pieces. They speak for themselves…
Charriol Colvmbvs Collection Rado Integral Gold

This brand never disappoints Glitter Pavé
when it comes to couture. Give them glitz without the
It’s quartz, all steel, and has a price tag. With a curved
white mother-of-pearl dial with sapphire crystal, this watch will
diamonds. There’s also that get attention wherever it goes.
fabulous diamond bezel (full Other notable sell points include
diamond weight 1.38ct) and a gold hi-tech ceramic bracelet
white crocodile strap to match. with a yellow PVD titanium
($7,490) 3-fold buckle. ($2,600)
Hublot Big Bang Apple

Let’s go back to the dawn of
Bertolucci Gioco time — literally. The Big Bang
In an 18k rose gold case set with Apple by Hublot is an opulent
an astounding 177 diamonds, extravagance that will pop
this opulent work of art no matter who wears it. With
(far beyond craftsmanship) a tsavorite-set bezel and a case
has a purple satin strap and a in red gold or black ceramic,
stunning white mother-of-pearl there’s also an alligator strap
dial. ($62,000) lined with rubber that’s too
yummy to resist. ($29,000)

watchroundup
Bill Stoner Stephen Taylor
STONER RETIRES FROM

BULOVA WATCH COMPANY, LTD., CANADA;
TAYLOR NAMED SUCCESSOR
Gucci for FFAWN Twirl
Partnering with Mary J. Blige
AS COMPANY PRESIDENT
and Steve Stoute’s Foundation New York, June 15, 2009 - Bulova Corporation has announced the retirement of
for the Advancement of Women Bill Stoner as president of Bulova Watch Company, Ltd., the Toronto-based Canadian
subsidiary of the global timekeeping company. President of the company since 1997,
Now (FFAWN), this limited- Mr. Stoner joined the company in 1969 as a sales representative, becoming executive
edition twirl watch is black vice president in 1984.
PVD with black diamonds and “During his tenure, Bill has guided the company through significant challenges and is
a special case-back engraving. leaving our Canadian business well-positioned for the future,” said Bulova Corporation
Launching in September, a president, Dennis W. Perry. “We are grateful for his many contributions, his leadership
and his friendship.”
portion of the proceeds from
each watch will go directly to Mr. Stoner will remain an advisor to Bulova Corporation, reporting to Mr. Perry.
Following initial support for the transition efforts in Canada, he will balance his time
FFAWN. ($1,895) between Bulova Canada and working directly with Mr. Perry on the ongoing plans to
globalize the Bulova business.
In a concurrent statement, Bulova also announced the appointment of Stephen Taylor
as the new president of Bulova Watch Company, Ltd., effective July 6, 2009.
Mr. Taylor was most recently associated with Philips Electronics Ltd., the Canadian
division of Philips Electronics, N.V., where he served as vice president and general
manager, Domestic Appliance and Personal Care Division. Previously, Taylor was
president and general manager, Canada, for Sara Lee Coffee & Tea Ltd.
Taylor's career has also included nearly twenty years at Nestlé Canada Inc., where he
served in a variety of management, marketing, sales and operations positions, with a
focus on consumer products. He began his career in sales, holding posts throughout
Canada ranging from sales representative to vice president, national sales.
Founded in 1875, Bulova remains one of the world's most recognized brands, reaching
a wide range of consumers with its Bulova, Bulova Accutron, Caravelle by Bulova,
Wittnauer and licensed Harley-Davidson® Timepieces by Bulova watches, as well as
Christian Tse Cheetah the award-winning Bulova Clocks. An independent subsidiary of Citizen Watch
Talk about call of the wild. This Company, Ltd. of Japan, Bulova is headquartered in New York City, with offices in
Switzerland, Canada, Mexico and the Far East. Continuing to maintain its position at
nature-inspired creation has
the forefront of the timekeeping industry, Bulova is committed to upholding an
1.15ctw chocolate diamonds, extraordinary legacy of excellence in design, style and technology as it expands to
2.50ctw of black diamonds and meet the needs of a diverse global audience.
4.75cwt yellow sapphires with
a black stingray band. No need
to say a word, just listen for the
‘awe’… ($11,000 USD)
The Bulova Watch Company is Canada’s leading watch company with brands
including Bulova, Caravelle, Bulova Accutron, Harley-Davidson, Wittnauer
and Bulova Clocks
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m august 2009 CJ 65 For details, write #145 on Free Info Page, page 113
060-063.CJ_Watch Roundup.indd 65 7/16/09 2:53:16 PM

064-067.CJ_Bridal.indd 66 7/16/09 11:55:57 AM

Bridal
bridalfeature
Wedding jewellery might be the only growing

segment in a slow market.
to the
bank
B y Carol Besler
I
s love the only thing that can save the jewellery industry from the • Estimated average cost of a wedding in America: $30,860, with an overall
current economic downturn? Thanks to the entrenched Western market value of $71.8 billion USD.
tradition of purchasing wedding and engagement rings upon • Estimated average cost of engagement ring: $4,411 USD, with an overall
betrothal, the bridal jewellery segment seems poised to represent the one market value of just over $10 billion USD.
growth factor in the coming year for retail jewellers. • Estimated average cost of his and her wedding rings: $2,067 USD, for a
total market value of about $4.7 billion USD.
According to the World Gold Council, the sale of gold wedding rings in • The bride and groom will spend an average of $582 USD(total market
the US is a $1.4 billion industry. The average ticket is about $150. In 2007 value $1.3 billion USD)on attendant gifts, and $139 USD (total market
— the last year for which the WGC released statistics — sales of wedding value about $315 million USD) on parent gifts.
rings increased by 3.6% in dollar value, making it the second-fastest
growing category, ahead of gold bracelets, earrings, neckwear and charms. A recent study conducted by Modern Bride magazine showed that instead
The only category showing more growth was fashion rings, a segment that of reducing their wedding budgets in the coming year, engaged couples
is expected to drop off dramatically in the coming months. have reprioritized and plan to spend their dollars on items that will last
forever. The top three items on that list of items of lasting value are the
The Bridal Association of America (BAA) forecasts that 2,326,485 couples honeymoon, photography and the engagement ring. The survey reported
in the US will fall in love and get married in 2009. Over the next 10 years, that 90% of brides said they are either keeping to their original wedding
that number is projected to increase by 30%. The BAA also forecasts the budget or planning to spend more; 85% said specifically that they would
following for 2009: spend the same or more on wedding jewellery.
064-067.CJ_Bridal.indd 67 7/16/09 11:56:16 AM

Diamond and platinum engagement
ring, with emerald-cut centre diamond
available in 1.50ct to 4.49ct size, from
the Ballerine collection by Cartier.
Cartier’s bridal sales have risen more
than 30% in the last year.
De Beers is calling it the “fewer, but better” factor, predicting that

consumers are more likely to purchase items of enduring emotional
value. This includes a ring that will last a lifetime. The Wedding Report,
a website that reports wedding statistics, says more than 40% of brides
and grooms recently surveyed consider “durability” to be a primary
determining factor when purchasing a wedding band. In fact, according
to the Modern Bride survey, about 81% of brides said they desired
platinum. On another note, according to Platinum Guild International,
this is a great time for retailers to communicate the intrinsic value of
platinum to consumers in order to take advantage of this trend toward
quality over quantity, pointing out that the Jewelers of America’s latest
Cost of Doing Business survey found that platinum jewellery’s gross
margin ranks the metal well above the national average.
Additional tips on tapping into bridal sales in the coming year include:
“So confident is Cartier in the bridal
• Package bridal jewellery as a three-ring set in order to ensure you
market, that it began rolling out a new
clinch the sale for all three items: engagement ring and his-and-her Bridal Salon concept last year in its
wedding bands.
• Take the opportunity to sell rare natural-coloured diamonds, which,
because they are not commoditized, represent one of the most
boutiques across the US. ”
potentially profitable margin categories for retailers.
• Remember that “bridal” includes more than engagement and wedding
rings. Gifts for the bride and groom, wedding party and parents
and children of the couple are opportunities for added business, as are
services such as jewellery repairs, enhancements and custom design.
• Selling bridal jewellery is an excellent opportunity to start an ongoing
relationship with a client, supported by customer service, anniversary
or birthday gift suggestions and maintenance. Offer a gift certificate for
free maintenance down the road.
• If platinum and even gold are too expensive during the downturn,
remember that some bridal jewellery is now being made with
palladium, which is about half the price of gold and a third of the price
of platinum. As a platinum group metal, it has the purity and whiteness
of platinum, and is hypo-allergenic.
064-067.CJ_Bridal.indd 68 7/16/09 11:56:32 AM

bridalfeature
The outlook for bridal is not completely unaffected by the recession.

The Wedding Report predicts spending will be down about 6% to 8%
across the board in 2009. And while people will still fall in love and
get married, and still require bridal jewellery, they might be choosing
smaller diamonds. Blue Nile reported last fall that its sales indicate a shift
from solitaires to diamond bands, representing a price shift from about
$6,000 USD to $3,000 USD. Steve Polacheck of Polacheck Jewelers in
Southern California, says that while his bridal business is strong, brides
in the second-marriage market, which generally purchase diamonds of
$10,000 and up, has tapered off. “I’ve sold more wedding bands than large
diamonds in the past four months,” said Polacheck in March.
Still, many leading retailers are banking on the bridal business in the
coming year, dedicating floor space in their stores to bridal sales. So
confident is Cartier in the bridal market, for example, that it began
rolling out a new Bridal Salon concept last year in its boutiques across
the US At the same time, the company has stepped up its inventory of
bridal jewellery and launched a bridal personalization service — “Set
For You by Cartier” — aimed at providing clients with the engagement
rings of their choice in 10 days. This is a strategy worth adapting to any
Diamond and micro-pavé ring
jewellery retail business right now, as the diamond market is overstocked from Claude Thibaudeau’s
and well-priced. If you can sell a large diamond, now is the time to buy Simplicité collection, available in
for good margins. [CJ] platinum or 18k white gold.
DESIGN © FREY WILLE
Join our team of selected retailers

Contact: optimumimportation@hotmail.com or (418) 873-2926 | www.frey-wille.com
Jew.OptimumImportation_203X125_HWW9.indd 1 16.07.2009 19:14:57 Uhr

064-067.CJ_Bridal.indd 69 7/17/09 12:32:44 PM

specialfeature
Responsible Retailing
The Responsible Jewellery Council discusses why
sound business practices matter for the future.
T
he Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) was established in
2005 by a group of 14 like-minded organizations from a cross-
section of the diamond and gold jewellery industry. The RJC is
an international product stewardship organization representing over
125 member companies, large and small, across the gold and diamond
jewellery supply chain. The RJC is governed by a Board of Directors,
supported by a number of Committees and is run by a management
team with offices in Australia, Canada, Italy and the United Kingdom.
070-072.CJ_Responsible.indd 70 7/16/09 11:39:23 AM

TM

AIR MILES ® CORPORATE INCENTIVES
Logos Provided
These are the logos that will be provided to you. These graph
The English colour version is used as the primary example in
English – Available in Spot (Pantone), Process (CMYK, RGB
®
www.cardinalwatch.com
Email: info@wengersltd.com
Fax: 514-337-4581 Toll-free: 800-561-3214 CORPORATE INCENTIVES
CJ_AUG09_Wengers_Ad.indd 1 7/16/09 2:19:19 PM

French – Available in Spot (Pantone), Process (CMYK, RGB
specialfeature
Member companies range from retailers such as founding member Tiffany

& Co, and newly welcomed Fred Meyer Jewelers, to mining operations
such as De Beers, Rio Tinto and Anglo Gold Anshanti. “But to rebut any
perception that the RJC is an organization for large companies, RJC also
has many independent retailers and single-location cutting operations
amongst its diverse membership,” says Michael Rae, CEO, RJC.
RJC Members are committed to promoting responsible ethical, human

rights, social and environmental practices in a transparent and accountable
“RJC Members are committed to manner throughout the industry from mine to retail. Their commitment
aims to reinforce consumer and stakeholder confidence in diamond and
promoting responsible ethical, human gold jewellery products.
rights, social and environmental practices
The Council has developed the RJC System — a certification system that will
in a transparent and accountable manner apply to all Members’ businesses that contribute to the diamond and gold
jewellery supply chain. Under the RJC system, all commercial members of
throughout the industry from mine to retail. ” the RJC will be required to be audited by accredited, third party auditors
to verify their conformance with the RJC’s code of practices. This unique
system builds on recognized international initiatives like the Kimberley
Process certification scheme, the International Labour Organisation
conventions, SA8000 and the United Nations Global Compact.
The Council extends the opportunity of membership throughout

the industry, including large and small businesses, at all levels of the
supply chain. The RJC groups its membership into the following: trade
associations, service industries; diamond and/or gold producers, diamond
trading, cutting and polishing; gold refining, hedging or trading; jewellery
manufacturing or wholesale; and retail.
“The idea that my company can be a member of a standards-setting

organization that is peerless in its requirement for independent third
party auditing of my operations before achieving certification was what
clinched it for me to join,” says Mel Moss, President of Regal Imports in
Vancouver, British Columbia. Moss has completed the first stage of the
RJC certification path by undergoing a self-assessment of his operation, an
exercise through which he says he learned a lot about his own business.
“I always believed that I pushed my suppliers and appraisers to be as

honest and transparent as possible. I know I am a demanding retailer
and the confidence my clients must have in my work, my materials and
my supplier relationships is what is crucial to my success,” says Varouj
Tabakian of Jewelley by Varouj in Toronto, Ontario.
Tabakian was the first Canadian retailer to join the RJC and believes
that RJC certification will put him in good stead with today’s discerning
consumer. “By being an RJC member, it is not just my talk or my
assurances; I can back up my 30 years in business with an assurance
system with international recognition — and teeth!”
The Council welcomes the involvement of organisations and stakeholders

who have an interest in the jewellery industry’s ethical, human rights,
social and environmental performance. The Responsible Jewellery
Council and a full list of its Members can be found on its website. For
further information, please visit www.responsiblejewellery.com. [CJ]
CJ a u g u s t 2 0 0 9 72 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
33960-TrollBeads Cdn Jewellers ad.indd 1 06/07/09 2:14 PM
070-072.CJ_Responsible.indd 72 7/16/09 2:47:20 PM

CJ_AUG09_Best_Bargains_Ad.indd 1
7/16/09 1:49:46 PM
Determined to Dominate
Small businesses adapt to stay afloat and even prosper during tough times.
By Howard Grosfield
074-075.CJ_AMEX.indd 74 7/16/09 11:14:08 AM

financefeature
F
or many small business owners, not just those in the jewellery According to economists, the financial fallout in the U.S. has come on a
industry, alarm over the downturned market has evolved into a much grander scale than here at home, which is reflected in the U.S. survey
quiet determination among business owners to remain in the black results. A mere four in ten American small business owners are optimistic
during the recession. While it’s unclear when the economy will rebound, about their near-term prospects, and capital investment and hiring plans are
it’s become increasingly evident that entrepreneurs across Canada will not at their lowest level in the eight-year history of the U.S. survey. The U.S. data
sit idle when it comes to determining their best strategies to stay strong. also show that almost half have instituted a hiring freeze (48%) and 30% of
owners are no longer taking a salary. Nevertheless, some bright spots exist: for
Certainly, many small business owners have taken bold and sometimes example, four in ten owners feel the current economy creates opportunities.
surprising steps to help ensure their survival and even thrive amidst the
uncertainty. While many were initially hoping to weather the recession What does this mean for Canada? In many respects, it appears we are in a
without making many changes to their day-to-day businesses, the reality is better position for recovery than our peers to the south but regardless of
that most small business owners have taken steps to protect their business which side of the border you’re on, the recession is having an unwelcome
finances and cut spending. Even though some choices have been difficult, impact on the bottom line.
it’s clear that selfish tactics and massive layoffs are not part of the picture
for small business. Before the rainbow comes the rain
Undeniably, it’s still a sobering time financially for many small business
According to survey findings from a recent American Express Canada owners and their staff. Few are weathering the recession in Canada without
Small Business Monitor, small business owners have chosen to make some battle scars to show for it, which is understandable given all the
personal sacrifices to protect their companies. One quarter of respondents insecurity in the market. According to the Small Business Monitor, two
forfeited their own salaries and almost the same number are investing in five (42%) are worried things will get worse for their businesses before
personal funds and would rather do so than cut staff. Other cost-saving it gets better, and 26% have concerns about meeting payroll. A further one
strategies include cutting back on expenses (60%), curbing personal in 20 are worried about making it through the next six months, saying
spending (48%) and increasing customer value (46%) to improve cash flow bankruptcy is possible.
and manage business during the downturn.
Despite all this, more than 80% of small business owners remain willing
A supportive environment to take a certain degree of business-related risk, which could reflect their
Small business employees are often akin to close-knit communities, instinctive determination to go it alone in the business world in the first
with many having worked together for years and even decades. Offering place. As many small business owners have learned, risks are often a
support during tough times has taken on a new level of importance in this necessary step on the path to rewards.
economic climate, and many owners have gone to great lengths to protect
their best workers, employing other cost-cutting measures in an effort to To stay competitive and even emerge stronger when the economy rebounds,
retain talent and keep employees happy. In fact, many small businesses have business owners are taking a number of moderate business related risks,
begun to invest personal funds in their business rather than eliminating including investing in new equipment or other capital expenditures (52%),
incentives such as raises. The Small Businesses Monitor shows a full 30% using personal assets to cover costs (32%), using a line of credit or bank loan
of respondents still offer bonuses and three times as many small businesses to pay creditors (30%) and extending payment terms for customers (18%).
are hiring (28%) than are cutting back staff (8%).
Overall, the tenacity and positivity shared through the Monitor survey
One might assume that this gritty determination to succeed weighs heavily and during conversations with small business owners provide a welcome
on personal happiness and optimism about the future – but this is not the glimpse of hope among this important business segment. Small businesses
case. While most entrepreneurs admit to feeling the negative impact of have been widely credited as the backbone of the Canadian economy —
the recession, they have faith in their companies and are willing to stand and they are unwavering in their efforts to navigate the economic storm
behind their employees and their business models. A full 70% say they are with sacrifice, optimism and key strategies that will help ensure their
confident that their business situation will improve over the next six months, continued success. [CJ]
and the majority believe that the rewards and opportunities associated with
running their own businesses still outweigh the risks and challenges.
Howard Grosfield is the Vice President and General Manager
of Small Business Services for American Express Canada and
A look to the south International.
Are Canadian small businesses owners faring any better than their
American counterparts? A similar American Express study conducted in He’s an expert on small business relations, and, of course,
keeping credit in check.
the U.S. provides some insight on a number of matters, including small
business owner optimism and the impact of the current economy.
074-075.CJ_AMEX.indd 75 7/16/09 11:14:36 AM

designerprofile
Canadian
Connection
An in-depth look at Gee N’Gee’s brilliant diamond designs.
B y Bonnie Siegler
O
ver 30 years ago, Gee N’Gee found a lucrative home in Vancouver,
British Columbia where Gil Bishouri, founder and owner, settled.
Bishouri’s journey spanned several thousand miles — from his
native country, Israel, to the beautiful mountains and Pacific Ocean. In his
early days in Israel, the young Bishouri excelled in creative art and from
there decided to learn the art of diamond cutting. Over time, he became
a master cutter for small to specialty cut diamonds. But he never limited
himself to just cutting these gems and has also traded in diamonds.
Parlaying his creative art into creative diamond designs, Gee N’Gee has
become recognized by diamond traders as a pioneer of designer jewellery
and is the exclusive distributor in Canada for the Flanders Collection of
diamond jewellery.
Canadian Jeweller (CJ): What is the derivative of Gee N’Gee?
Gil Bishouri (GB): It is the two initials of the first two names of Gil and Gideon.
Gideon was my original business partner when we opened the business in the
late ’70s. After eight months, he moved back to Israel. Gee N’Gee was then
incorporated and I now hold the position of President and CEO.
CJ: How have your jewellery designs been influenced by your Israeli/
Middle Eastern background?
GB: I grew up in a country where diamonds are one of the major sources of
revenue. As a diamond cutter for many years, I have somehow developed an
understanding of what can be classic designs that can stand the test of time and
contemporary pieces that are appealing to both young and adult consumers.
CJ: What inspires you now and how do these inspirations reveal
themselves in your designs?
GB: The joy of a satisfied and content customer is what inspires me to create
A Flanders-cut solitaire in pavé setting with 19k gold.
and design these beautiful pieces.
076-079.CJ_Designer_re.indd 76 7/16/09 11:19:55 AM

For details, write #150 on Free Info Page, page 11 5
new new.indd 1
Booth 930
Vancouver
7/16/09 4:41:47 PM
CJ: Gee N’Gee has been creating diamond jewellery for the past 30 years.
How have your designs and technology evolved over three decades?
GB: Like many other jewellers, there is always a need to thrive, to excel
and become unique. Our designs have evolved from designer pieces to
contemporary ones that are affordable, but with the utmost regard to
quality and craftsmanship. Since we are based in British Columbia, Gee
N’Gee caters to clients of different tastes, with different ethnic backgrounds
and age groups. These mainly influence the pieces that we create. For
instance, for a woman in her twenties and thirties, what’s popular is a
variety of solitaires. For those in their forties through sixties, it’s more
of a heavier look — a lot of pavé diamonds and channel-set diamonds.
Gee N’Gee is one of only a few jewellers in Canada to offer Gemvision’s
Matrix CAD design, Gemvision Revo 540 milling machine and laser
welding technology. With Matrix, we can custom-design any type of
jewellery. Clients can imagine and see what the finished piece will look
like before it is made. They can also get a better quality piece because
of the wax model — which is actually made from our CAD rendering
design.
CJ: For many fine jewellery designers, the choice of gold varies from
18k to 24k, yet you specialize in 19k gold. What is so unique about this
type of gold?
GB: The colour of the 19k gold is like non other. The whiteness of 19k is
greater than the rest. Also, the goldsmith’s ability to work on this metal
makes it unique. It is not an easy metal to work with.
CJ: You also work in platinum and it seems many in Hollywood choose
platinum pieces when going to award shows or special events. Is there a
particular reason that platinum is their metal of choice then?
GB: Platinum is a precious metal and I believe that it symbolizes

boldness, beauty, wealth and fashion.
CJ: What gemstones do you incorporate into your designs in order to

give them a burst of colour?
GB: Tanzanite, kunzite and pink sapphire.
CJ: You also use pearls in your pieces as well. How do the smooth,
polished textures of pearls complement the brilliant surface facets
of diamonds?
GB: We are using mainly Tahitian pearls — South Sea pearls. The
contrast between the black colour of the pearl and 19k white gold, in
combination with our special design, gives our pieces a distinct and
unique look.
CJ: What do you think will be some of the upcoming fall and winter
trends this year in jewellery?
Top: A Flanders channel setting that has almost no opening between the stones.
GB: A lot of micropavé pieces for the ladies in combination with pink Bottom: A representation of Flanders pavé setting, which is the latest and most
and white gold pieces. sophisticated diamond setting techinque.
076-079.CJ_Designer_re.indd 78 7/16/09 11:20:41 AM

designerprofile
CJ: With 19k gold, platinum and diamonds, do you believe your
designs represent a consciousness of the current economic climate?
GB: There is a saying: “The bitterness of a poor quality remains after

the sweetness of a cheap price is gone.” So regardless of the economic
climate, people are well aware of what they want, the quality and the
price. Customer satisfaction and excellence is our main goal.
CJ: Your designs represent a certain sophisticated look with diamonds

— what do you think the pieces say about the woman — and the man
— who wear them?
GB: A woman who wears our jewellery will look regal, elegant,
beautiful, sophisticated and simply sexy. A man, on the other hand,
will look dignified, strong, wealthy and accomplished.
CJ: In your opinion, what is the right time and place to wear a diamond
piece from your chic Flanders Collection?
GB: The regal and sheer elegance of our Flanders Collection is ideal
for special parties and occasions… for every important occasion. [CJ]
BW_AD_203x125:135 15.06.2009 16:33 Uhr Seite 1

A Flanders pavé setting.
Made in Germany/Fabriqué en Allemagne

BERND
WOLF
Information:
Optimum Importation Inc.
(418) 873-2926
optimumimportation@hotmailcom
076-079.CJ_Designer_re.indd 79 7/16/09 2:57:29 PM

080-083.CJ_Vincenza_re.indd 80 7/16/09 11:10:45 AM

vicenzafeature
Made
in Italy
The old adage maintains its allure with
the insider scoop and trends from Charm
at Vicenza.
By Carol B esler
R
ecession or not, Italian jewellery manufacturers remain
determined to stay ahead of the design curve and maintain
quality standards. Pared-down designs and competitive
price points combined with a dedication to innovation were evident
in the new collections from exhibitors at Charm, the second of the
trio of jewellery trade shows held annually at the Vicenza fair.
The Italian jewellery manufacturing sector — which exports about

three-quarters of its production — has been dealt a blow by the
global recession, but remains determined to maintain market share
through innovation. Domenico Girardi, COO of the Vicenza fair
describes the newest offerings from Italian designers as “easy to
wear. The goal is maximum aesthetic result at the lowest possible
price, without taking anything away from manufacturing in the top
quality range,” says Girardi. When asked about the possibility of
reducing the number of fairs to two rather than three per year, given
the economy, Girardi responded that the decision to maintain three
fairs is geared to evolving buying strategies. “Retailers place orders
three times a year now, and this will grow more common as they
tailor their buying more closely to demand. “This is independent of
the crisis,” he says. “It’s just a need.”
The following trends observed at Charm represent innovation rather

than a return to basics or classics this fall, as some were predicting.

1.
2.
4.
3.
1. Top faceted amethyst ring in white gold

with diamond accents, from the Bubble
collection by Alfieri & St. John.
2. Resin coated metal beads from the Pebble
collection by Fifth Season.
3. Silver and carved mother-of-pearl ring
from the Tea Time collection by Bliss.
4. Light-hued, briolette-cut amethyst with
small diamonds and pink sapphires, by IoSi.
Metal Blocking Doublets

Fewer diamonds and gemstones set in gold pieces does not have to translate The doublet, once used by charlatans to imitate large gemstones, is
into bleak designs. Contrasting blocks of white, yellow or pink gold, fused making a sensational — and fully disclosed — comeback. They occur
together and often hand-finished, add dimension and architectural flair. primarily in the form of clear quartz or crystal fused to a thin sub-layer
The look corresponds to the chunky colour-blocking evident in recent in of mineral such as lapis, turquoise or coral, through which the colour
runway fashion designs. glows through the crystal that is fused on top of it.
Briolettes, Top Cuts, Checkerboards Evolution of Stations

In gemstones, the top-facet rules. This means free-floating briolettes The trend toward beads in irregular shapes, including beaded gems
above all, and where gems are set, they are top-faceted with familiar and pearls set between lengths of chain, is still strong. New variations
checkerboard cuts or in fresh-looking random shapes and irregular facets. include larger chain links and double strands between stations as
The result is a subtle glamour that looks hand-made and corresponds to well as larger gems or clusters of gems (especially briolettes) between
the toned-down look of luxury in a recession. chain lengths.

vicenzafeature
1. 2.
4.
1. Enamel and gemstone rings by

La Nouvelle Bague.
2. Light-hued amethyst, citrine and smoky 3.
quartz necklace, with diamond accents, by Calgaro.
3. White and black diamonds surround a flower
made of obsidian, from the Anamone collection
by Bibigi.
4. Brown, white and black diamond “frog” ring
in 18k white gold, by Pippo Perez.
Enamel Amethyst
Expressions of colour are important at a time when jewellery must be This regal, acccessible gem is everywhere, in various shades from very
design-forward and bold in order to attract attention. Italian jewellers are light to fully saturated.
uniquely qualified, with the tools and talent, for fine enameling processes.
Price Points
Flowers Aside from the introduction of accessible silver collections by most major
Petal mania is still a strong trend, in increasingly stylized, modern manufacturers, other signs of downward price targeting include: narrower
variations. Briolette cuts and top facets lend themselves well to the look. shanks, smaller pendants, cutouts in gold metal designs, rows of small
diamonds and gemstones rather than or to complement large gems; the use
Hand Engraving of wood, including ebony; grey, ice, brown and black diamonds rather than
Silver is prominently used in new collections and is being finished in white diamonds; other substitutions, such as pink tourmaline instead of
various ways to tone it down, most notably a buren-finished scratched pink sapphire, quartz or quartz doublets instead of moonstone; and, from
surface. Much of it is also rhodium-plated to prevent tarnishing. one manufacturer (Fifth Season), a resin coating over metal beads. [CJ]

starwatch
Coast-to-Coast
Celebrations went from coast-to-coast — and even Europe — in the past
few months with celebrities donning their finest. Here are the jewels that are
making the rounds and going coastal.
B y Bonnie Siegler
Wearing Neil Lane’s new collection of Meteorite Diamond and

Platinum Jewels From Outer Space for the premiere of Star Trek
in Westwood, California, Zoe Saldana sparkled. She wore ball
meteorite earrings shaped from meteorites with diamonds and
platinum. Leighton Meester chose stacks of diamond bangles and
diamond stud earrings, while Winona Ryder soared in gold, pearl
and diamond bracelets, earrings and cocktail rings.
Leighton Meester
Leighton Meester’s
diamond bangles.
Zoe Saldana
Earrings from Neil Lane’s

Meteorite Diamond and
Platinum Jewels From Outer
Space worn by Zoe Saldana.
At the 13th Annual Art Directors Guild Awards

in Beverly Hills, Marisa Tomei wore a Bochic
abalone shell, raspberry tourmaline and
diamond necklace to complement her
strapless red and gray draped gown.
Ring from Neil Lane’s

Meteorite Diamond and
Platinum Jewels From Outer
Space worn by Zoe Saldana.
Marisa Tomei
Marisa Tomei’s Bochic
abalone shell, raspberry tourmaline
and diamond necklace.
084-086.CJ_StarWatch_re.indd 84 7/16/09 11:14:58 AM

CJ Sanghavi
060.CJ Diamonds.indd
Sanghavi 1
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Tech Talk
Technology’s relevance for today’s jewellery retailers.
By A mber K laehn
T
hese days, it’s next to impossible to avoid technology in all In addition, we are constantly bombarded with new technology
its forms and how we interact with it every day. From booking announcements, breaking news and latest trend revelations that will
travel or doing our banking over the Internet, to listening to our render whatever we are doing today obsolete by next week, if not sooner.
favourite music on our portable players, to checking our email, it has It is intimidating, to say the least, for those who are technology savvy
consumed almost every facet of our lives. Its benefits to our society are but for those who are not, it is downright frightening.
very clear: we are far more productive, more knowledgeable and better
connected than at any point in human history. Within our own jewellery industry, technology has played a major role
in creating new challenges and opportunities for us. A major challenge
The need to continuously stay ahead of our competitors requires us to be we face is contending with the emergence of online jewellery retailers
connected to the online society constantly. Unfortunately, technology such as bluenile.ca. These retailers have built very successful businesses
has been somewhat unfairly blamed for the erosion of human personal by offering a wide variety of stock jewellery while also allowing shoppers
relationships as more and more people conduct business and maintain to design and build their own unique pieces and have them shipped to
friendships behind computer screens. their homes within 24 hours. The sheer convenience, along with the wide
088-090.CJ_TechTalk_re.indd 86 7/16/09 2:02:35 PM

techfeature
tIve
I N N o va
evermore
everest
everyday
variety of merchandise and many attractive shopping options available, make these online
retailers a very legitimate threat to the survival of independent jewellery retailers.
How does one successfully compete against them? And what role can technology play in
helping traditional brick and mortar retailers survive through these challenging times?
The answer likely does not lie with independent retailers creating their own online stores
to compete against much larger online retailers. Despite this advice being frequently let your sales message
doled out at industry conferences by well-intentioned online consultants, it directly sustained
contradicts the very nature of the jewellery retailing business. As we all know, this is a
relationship-oriented industry and the most successful independent retailers have long Brand your store(s)
ago learned this is critical to their success.
Free to consumer
By maintaining very intimate relationships with their best clients, independent jewellers and free to you
provide a level of service that no online retailer will ever be able to match. By capturing
every aspect of a customer’s key life events, along with a deep understanding of their
hobbies, interests and other personal information, the successful jeweller has learned to
market the right merchandise, at precisely the right time through the right marketing
venues and has established a level of customer loyalty that most other industries envy.
So how can technology help independent jewellery retailers maintain their competitive
advantage in this bold and innovative online world? I believe the answer lies with

techfeature
customers could upload images of their personal items so they could

eventually get assistance in finding suitable matches. Customers could
also automatically subscribe to your store’s newsletter and routinely be
informed about promotional events or specials that you may offer.
For repairs and custom work, customers could automatically create

leveraging technology to enhance the customer service experience. their own orders along with estimated drop-off times, and could even use
In other words, use the power of the Internet to provide a whole new your website to inquire into the status of their orders and to determine
level of customer service for times when your customers are unable to the appropriate pick-up dates and times. Of course, customers can also
come into your store due to inclement weather, schedule constraints or browse and purchase merchandise as well!
other logistical issues.
Technology will play a vital role in helping jewellery retailers maintain
Does this mean we should go online, as the consultants keep telling us? their competitive advantage online. It’s about understanding your unique
By all means, a resounding “Yes!” But the intent of why you should go business differentiators and applying technology to enhance them, rather
online is the difference. Rather than simply creating yet another online than changing your business to accommodate technology. [CJ]
site that duplicates merchandise in your store, you could provide all the
capabilities your customers would expect if they were physically present
in your store. Amber Klaehn is the Product Manager at Emforium Group Inc.
Since 1998, she has been actively involved in both the jewellery and technology
You could, through your site, enable them to create and maintain their industries, consulting jewellery retailers on their store operations and helping
own profi le with information such as contact details, personal interests, them successfully implement technology.
upcoming special events, along with their wish lists. Additionally,
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CJ_AUG09_AV_Diamonds_Ad.indt 1
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advertisingfeature
A Diamond in the Ruff

INKAS® offers protection and piece of mind when you need it most.
From the first horse-drawn caged buggies to the greatest heists of the 20th century, continue Door To Door Deposit
advanced tracking systems and sophisticated to be preoccupied with their operational The Door To Door Deposit service allows an
technology of today, the armed courier distractions and personal schedules, INKAS® individual to access their safety deposit box in the
industry has changed substantially. A century has managed to forge ahead, cultivating comfort of their own home or office. All boxes
and a half ago, a handful of companies, while relationships with its clients. Listening to are housed by INKAS® in their vaults, and unlike
still wet behind the ears, attempted their feat at customers, focusing on their needs, providing most banks, are fully insured. Clients simply
providing the securitization of valuables during flexibility and offering innovate solutions has not arrange for a time or schedule a regular delivery.
transportation. This perilous service was the only assisted in the Company’s growth, but has INKAS® will arrive with the safety deposit
inauguration of the armed courier industry also been the prescribed backbone for success. box, allowing the client to access or add to its
as we have come to know it. Battles raged INKAS® “thinks outside the vault,” offering contents. Upon completion, the box is returned
and lives were lost, but the need for security extremely competitive prices and several services back to the vault where it is safely stored.
and protection continued to exist. Despite that the security goliaths do not.
these conditions, a few companies endured Customers that subscribe to the Door To
and began cementing their roots. As horse- Two such innovative services exclusive to the Door Deposit have added comfort by placing
drawn cages eventually gave way to armoured jewellery industry are the Store To Door delivery stickers in their windows that inform any
vehicles, those that survived have grown into of luxury items purchased from merchants and potentially unwelcomed visitors that “the
the armoured car industry giants of today. the Door To Door Deposit services offered to valuables belonging to this premises are picked
anyone who wants 24/7 access to their safety up and stored by INKAS®,” making any criminal
Those industry giants, the modern day icons deposit box without having to leave the home activities futile and senseless.
of security, rich and steeped in history, have or office. Both services are performed by armed
cast a long and dark shadow across the couriers in unmarked armoured vehicles, who The Bottom Line
security arena, making it difficult for others are fully insured, mitigate risks associated with Surprisingly, the costs for both Store to Door
to build and prosper. Despite this monopoly, valuables and offer personal attention for the delivery and Door To Door Deposit are very
one company has taken it upon itself to cast its discrete individual. reasonable, fueling the demand for such
own light and gleams where few have ventured services. Jewellers, merchants and customers
with success. INKAS®, the relatively new kid Store To Door Delivery are taking advantage of both services as it offers
on the block, and perhaps the diamond in Offers jewellers, both retail and wholesale, the peace of mind knowing that their valuables are
the ruff, continues to carve a niche in armed opportunity to complement the sale of their safe, secured and fully insured.
courier services. luxury and prestigious items by providing secure
transportation of the precious merchandise to Although there may not be anything sexy about
Innovative Offerings the buyer’s destination. If there is value, there armed courier services, the pickup and delivery
What INKAS® lacks in the pedigree of its is a need for security, whether the items are of cash and valuables or the storage of precious
industry peers, it more than makes up for rings, watches, brooches, bracelets, earrings or metals and stones, there is something truly
in the pursuit to offer innovative solutions. necklaces. Jewellers are also finding this service appealing about innovative solutions. And
Despite being an old cliché of sorts, the key to be extremely useful when clients need to unlike its counterparts, who have weathered
to the Company’s survival is its unwavering send the items back for repair or cleaning. This the storm, the next hundred years may see one
philosophy: the “Customer Comes First.” While type of VIP attention is not only innovative — more giant emerge. In the meantime, INKAS®
industry giants, synonymous with some of the it also generates a competitive edge. is really starting to shine. [CJ]
092-093.CJ_INKAS_re.indd 91 7/16/09 11:16:43 AM

Eastern Influence
The Japanese jewellery market is growing at a rapid pace, extending its
influence beyond borders.
B y Gordon Feller
T
he estimated size of the jewellery market in Japan — in terms In the past few decades, Japanese consumers have been experiencing major
of retail sales in 2007 — was 1.2 trillion yen, or approximately changes in lifestyle, with strong influence from Western cultures. There are
US$10.16 billion. Following encouraging signs of recovery in many female consumers who look more favourably on imported brands,
2005 after 14 consecutive years of market decline (1991-2005), economic especially individuals in their 30s to early 40s who grew up in the “bubble
factors, as well as continuing high prices for raw precious metals, led to a economy” when many foreign brands were status symbols. On the other
5.8% decrease in retail sales in 2007. However, the economic meltdown hand, there are consumers with a preference for fashion items that are not
will start being seen as soon as 2009 numbers are tallied. prestigious brands, yet unique and distinctive in design. There is no single
trend, but a wider range of preferences than was evident in the past.
Nonetheless, sales of imported brand jewellery have been increasing each
year and are estimated to be approximately one-fourth of all jewellery There are two dominant consumer groups in the jewellery market:
retail sales. Recent sales of famous brand jewellery account for one-third of the younger generation — people in their 20s looking for unique and
all retail sales, and roughly 60% of all brand sales are international brands. fashionable jewellery at affordable price ranges, and the mature 30-40
Both domestic and import brands with good name recognition among year olds with more disposable income to spend on upscale/luxury items.
consumers are doing well in the market. The United States has been the According to a consumer study conducted in 2007 by the Yano Research
top supplier of silver and platinum jewellery, and the largest supplier of Institute, affordable fashion jewellery priced less than US$400 had about
precious metal jewellery products overall for the past several years. Japan a 46% share in terms of sales volume. Jewellery priced between US$800-
continues to be a highly competitive, but attractive, market for unique and 1,700 had the second largest share at 21%, followed by jewellery priced
fashionable jewellery products with a good brand image. between US$1,700-4,000 with a 15% share.
094-99.CJ_Japan_re.indd 92 7/16/09 3:06:08 PM

internationalfeature
The precious metal raw material price of platinum, silver and gold reached a high in
early 2008. As Japan depends on imports of almost all raw materials, high precious
ever magazINe
The inspiration of fashion jewllery ®

metal prices can raise retail prices by 20% to 30% or more, which has a great impact on
jewellery sales and consumer spending.
The challenge for domestic manufacturers has been to maintain or reduce the retail price
of their products in the last few years, given the higher price of raw materials. They have
started selling lower-karat precious metal jewellery products, such as 10k or 14k gold, to Canada’s first premium Fashion
target younger consumer groups. For decades, 18k precious metal has been the Japanese Jewellery magazine
standard, and 10k, 14k, and 22k were very rarely found in the market, especially in
the retail channel, until recently. However, these are coming to be accepted by younger Great to take home
consumers due to their affordability. Imports of diamonds have been decreasing, while
coloured stones/semi-precious stones at lower prices have been increasing. 4 times per year
Many prestigious brands have begun to promote jewellery, and have also opened up
new stores or flagship store buildings in upscale shopping districts in Tokyo, Osaka, Have ever in-store to keep your
and Nagoya in the last three-to-four years. With a concentration and a number of store customers inspired;
openings in major cities, competition has been higher than ever among luxury brands.
These brands have been growing steadily each year, though sales of the international top Yes, I would like to have 20 copies
brands did not expand despite an increased number of stores in 2007. at no charge for my store at
the address below:
There is also a growing market for buyback jewellery (used jewellery bought from
consumers). An increasing amount of used, high-end, prestigious brand jewellery has
been available for resale at much lower prices in various retail chains and on the Internet.
Store name:
These factors resulted in an oversupply of prestigious brand products in the market.
Address:
Domestic jewellery manufacturers and retailers have been struggling due to greater
competition with imported jewellery as a result of decreased consumer spending.
Sales of famous brand jewellery account for one third of all retail sales, and 60% of
brand jewellery sales are international brands. Sales of imported brand jewellery are
estimated to be about one fourth of all jewellery retail sales and have been increasing Phone:
their share each year. Both domestic and import brands with good name recognition
among consumers are more successful than most non-brand products. Jewellery is often Fax:
classified according to the type of precious metal employed, whether it is gold, platinum
Email:
or silver-based on the Harmonized System (HS) code classification as follows:
Contact name:
HS Number Commodity
7113.11-000: Articles of jewellery of silver
7113.19-010: Articles of platinum Fax to: 1-888-849-0155
7113.19-029: Articles of jewellery of gold, excluding chains for watches, spectacles or
pince-nez and other ornamental chains worn on the person.
The estimated size of the jewellery retail market was 1.2-trillion yen (US$10.16-billion),
in 2007. The market showed signs of recovery in 2005, with a 2.1% increase after 14
be a part of it.
2010
consecutive years of decline. A new, wealthy consumer group called the “New Rich,”
successful entrepreneurs in IT or the stock market in 2005/2006, contributed to this
recovery. However, sales have struggled again in the last few years due to growth
constraints on overall consumer spending on jewellery. These include higher retail prices
caused by high raw material prices, as well as a weaker Japanese yen, which made many
jewellery products less affordable. Nonetheless, Japan has a US$10.16 billion jewellery
market, the third largest in the world after the United States and China.

Total imports of precious metal jewellery decreased by 6.1% in 2007 It is challenging for new brands to enter this competitive market
from the previous year. The United States has been the largest supplier that has well-established key players. However, new, unique and
of precious metal jewellery products, with a 25.8% share of all imports fashionable designer jewellery with good brand recognition and/or
of precious metal jewellery, and has also been the top supplier of silver established representation in other international markets may have
and platinum jewellery for the past several years. potential in Japan. It is important that suppliers seeking to enter this
market understand and are able to meet Japanese consumer standards
Jewellery Imports of Precious Metal Jewellery and preferences for sophisticated and delicate design with fine small
1998 & 2005-2007 details, quality and careful workmanship.
*Gold Total Imports
Among jewellery products, the best prospects include:
1998 2005 2006 2007
Wedding Rings
Volume 15.7 21.2 20.8 23.7
Value $409,447 $812,164 $829,366 $790,422 With the increasingly diversified lifestyle of Japanese consumers,
wedding and engagement rituals have been changing among younger
*Gold U.S. Imports couples. Due to high precious metal raw prices, total sales of both
1998 2005 2006 2007 wedding and engagement rings increased by value by 7.4% and 5.8%,
respectively, in 2007, while diamond engagement ring sales have been
Volume 1.5 2.2 3.0 3.4 decreasing by volume in the past several years. With lower birth rates
Value $36,619 $43,616 $51,430 $63,118 and an increasing number of single households, the total number of
*Platinum Total Imports marriages continues to go down. However, there will continue to be
strong demand for wedding rings among marrying couples, as the
1998 2005 2006 2007
exchange of wedding rings has become a well-established symbolic
Volume 2.3 3.8 4.2 4.8 marriage ritual.
Value $176,564 $349,421 $444,077 $415,434
*Platinum U.S. Imports Men’s Jewellery
One of the ongoing trends with potential for growth is men’s jewellery.
1998 2005 2006 2007 Tiepins, cuff links, and watches have been standard accessory items
Volume 0.6 2.0 2.5 2.0 for men for decades. Today, many imported prestigious brands carry
Value $82,851 $178,223 $235,502 $232,080 jewellery specifically for men or market their unisex jewellery to
*Silver Total Imports men. There is a rising interest in personal jewellery and luxury goods
among male consumers, and a broad range of fashionable products
1998 2005 2006 2007 for men is available in the market. Yano Research Institute estimates
the current size of the men’s jewellery market at 49.30-billion yen or
Volume 115.1 237.1 236.3 170.8
Value $147,317 $302,316 $305,737 $272,212 about $417-million in 2007, a 9.8% increase from the previous year of
44.9 billion yen or $387 million.
*Silver U.S. Imports
1998 2005 2006 2007 2007 Ownership Ratio of Jewellery/Fashion
Accessories among Male Consumers
Volume 34.4 27.4 32.1 22.3
Age Group Fashion Ring Necklace Bracelet Cuff Links Tie-pin
Value $69,785 $98,798 $99,962 $88,250
20s: 48.1% 74.1% 25.9% 18.5% 25.9%
(Volume in tons; Value in US$1,000s)
30s: 43.4% 54.2% 34.9% 22.9% 43.4%
Among all precious metals, silver jewellery showed a large drop both in 40s: 32.1% 56.6% 47.2% 35.8% 50.9%
overall imports and in imports from the United States, both by volume Over 50: 17.2% 34.5% 24.1% 69.0% 72.4%
and value, in 2007. Overall imports of gold and platinum jewellery by All ages: 37.0% 54.7% 35.4% 32.8% 47.4%
volume increased from 2007, while imports by value dropped. This
indicates that lower-priced platinum and gold jewellery was imported (Source: Yano Research Institute Consumer Survey)
into the market in 2007.

Men in their 20s and 30s wear more fashion rings and necklaces, while
The Yano Research Institute estimates that imported brand jewellery men over 50 tend to wear traditional accessory items, such as cuff links
accounts for about 25% of the retail market, which was approximately and tie-pins, for business occasions. About 59% of male consumers
2.54 billion in 2007. This represents a slight increase from the previous (average rate of all age groups) responding to this survey said that they
year and is roughly three times the 7.9% share of imported jewellery held do not own any of the jewellery/fashion accessories listed above. There
in 1995. might be some room to expand sales to this group.

CJ_AUG09_Noble_Ad.indd 1
7/16/09 2:23:00 PM
New Designers/Fashion Jewellery with Brand Recognition
Top Importers of Gold, Platinum, and Building their own brand or representing new designer jewellery brands
Top Importers of Gold, Platinum, and
SilverSilver
Jewellery from overseas may be a key to success in this market for many domestic
Jewellery inin 2007
2007
jewellery retailers who do not have their own established brands in place.
Gold: Country Share % There are many new designers of fashion jewellery from Europe, and some
from the United States, that are being introduced by leading department
stores or shopping outlets in an effort to differentiate products from other
Hong
Kong retailers. The competition for new entries has been very high.
7.53
USA Re-Made Jewellery
8.0
Jewellery re-making (called the “reform” market in Japan) is a niche that
France
has been growing recently. Small retailers/retail chains with workshop
28.3
Switzerland
functions are the key players re-making old jewellery into new and one-
9.8 of-a-kind designs for customers. Challenges and difficulties in this new
business include meeting diversified individual preferences in different age
groups, lifestyles and fashions.
Italy
21.1
Domestic production of precious metal jewellery has been decreasing
since its peak, a record of 373.7-billion yen (US$3.6-billion) in 1994
to about 213.52-billion yen (US$1.9-billion) in 2005. The continued
downsizing of the jewellery market is not only the result of sluggish
Platinum: Country Share % economic conditions, but also due to higher precious metal prices and a
Italy weaker yen. Many Japanese jewellery manufacturers have been entering
Spain
2.3 international markets to promote their brands. Exports are estimated to
2.9 have more than doubled from 2004 to 2007.
Switzld
22.0 The leading exporters of precious metal jewellery to Japan are the United
States, Italy and France. Together, these countries account for more than
France 60% of all imports of precious metal jewellery to Japan on a value basis.
22.0
USA
55.8 Among importers, the United States has been the top supplier of platinum
and silver jewellery for the past several years, and also has been the top
supplier of overall precious metal jewellery products imported by value
since 1997. The exception was in 2004, when the U.S. dropped into second
place after Italy.
Although Japanese jewellery products are recognized for their precise

and careful workmanship, many Asian products have a reputation for
Silver: Country Share % affordability, while jewellery products from Europe and the United States
are known for their sophisticated and stylish designs. Specifically, the
Spain
United States is known for wedding rings and machine-made products, as
4.8 well as other high-end handmade luxury products.
China
8.6 European jewellery is known for its high fashion appeal in both the classic
and modern styles, as well as for high-end brand jewellery. Recently, many
fashionable costume/fashion jewellery products from overseas in silver or
USA
Italy 32.4 bronze with cut or uncut stones have been introduced into the market,
14.2 with wide variations in size and quality.
According to The 12th World Wealth Report by Merrill Lynch & Capgemini,
Thailand released in June 2008, the total wealth population in 2007 (individuals
15.8
with more than US$1-million savings) was estimated to be 10.1 million
worldwide, which is a 6% increase. The Japanese population accounts for
15% of the total, and has 1.51 million wealthy individuals, representing a
(Source: Japan Tariff Association) 2.2% increase from the previous year.

Jewellery distribution channels are often highly segmented and

Annual Income Per Household Group Definition
differentiated by the type of product, such as whether they are finished
I II III IV V jewellery products or raw materials (cut or uncut stones, or base metals)
$22,712 and $22,712 - $33,599 - $45,763 - $65,932 and and pricing category. The Japanese distribution system typically is a multi-
below $33,599 $45,763 $65,932 above layered one, with importers, distributors (primary and secondary), as well
as regional wholesalers, which bring finished products to the retail channel.
The table above shows that households with higher incomes have the This has been changing with an increasing number of direct purchases (for
largest expenditure on jewellery. There is no specific age classification on example, without the middleman to lower the retail price).
this report, but group V can be assumed to include consumers in their
30s or older, based on estimated average income levels in the market. Small and medium-sized retailers or wholesalers, including many
There has been an increasing number of travellers to Japan in the past individually or family-owned, have an overwhelming share of the market;
three-four years, according to the Japan National Tourism Organization no single retailer or wholesaler dominates. Recently, there have been more
(JNTO). Over 8.3-million foreigners travelled to Japan in 2007. Wealthy consignment sales among retailers, which makes business for the distributors
consumers from China, Russia and the Middle East are observed to spend and wholesalers in the market more difficult to manage financially.
money shopping in the market. These travellers have also contributed to
the sale of luxury products. However, many retailers do not handle imports directly, nor do they
stock quantities of inventory. U.S. companies seeking representation in
The following are subsets of consumers with potential purchasing power: the market may want to locate an appropriate importer or specialized
• Retiring baby boomers — the estimated number of baby boomers distributor who has a targeted sales channel. In many cases, distributors
retiring in the next few years is over eight-million, a potential target will seek exclusive rights to compensate for the risks they take in bringing
for high-end and luxury products a product to market. It might be difficult to find a distributor interested in
• Consumers in their 30s and 40s with higher incomes taking on a jewellery brand if the products are already generally available
• Wealthy consumers, including foreign travellers to the market online or on television shopping channels. [CJ]
C1193_Lotus_IceAd_CanJew:C1193_Lotus_IceAd_CanJew 7/2/09 9:23 AM Page 1
ICE 925 Canadian Diamonds...the greener, cleaner diamond.

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C.G.T.A GIFT SHOW
Aug. 9 - 12, Booth 5557, Hall 5
Fresh from the Ice Box International Centre, Toronto
New Innukshuk designs... MODE ACCESSORIES SHOW
Aug. 9 - 12, Booth 4007, Terrace Rm
DoubleTree Int’l Plaza Hotel
Toronto, Ontario
ALBERTA GIFT SHOW

Aug. 12 - 14, Booth 5430
Sportex Centre, Edmonton, AB
ALBERTA JEWELLERY EXPO

Aug. 12 - 14, Booth 716
Shaw Convention Centre
Edmonton, AB

Each piece comes with JCK JEWELLERY SHOW( NEW! )
custom packaging Aug. 30 - 31, Booth 1108
and a certificate Vancouver Trade & Convention
Exclusive to Lotus Jewellery

of authenticity for Vancouver, BC
your customer JCK JEWELLERY SHOW( NEW! )
Sept. 13 - 15, Booth 717
Metro Toronto Convention Centre Protected territories available.
Call for our colour catalogue. Toronto, Ontario
All ICE 925 diamonds are from the Diavik mine in the Northwest Territories. Lotus Jewellery Ltd
Diavik is committed to operating safely, protecting the environment Toll Free Phone: 1-877-593-0922 Toll Free Fax: 1-800-593-0923
and making a positive contribution to communities of the region. Email: lotusorders@eastlink.ca
The greener, cleaner diamond. Visit www.diavik.ca for more information . www.lotusjewel.com

Radiant Ruby
Why the ruby is suddenly
on everyone’s radar.
B y The Canadian Gemmological A ssociation
U.S. Trade Embargo Alternative Sources

The U.S. government’s embargo on rubies and jadeite jade from Myanmar There are several well-known sources of ruby, and new sources are
(formerly Burma) was intended to punish the ruling junta there, but discovered every year. Myanmar is the most famous source of ruby,
those who are really hurt are the miners of these two gems that make the but fine ruby can be found in other countries, such as Vietnam and
country so famous and, potentially, the industry as a whole. several African locations. True North Gems has mined ruby as
close to Canada as Greenland. Some sources, such as Madagascar
International demand for ruby and jade remains, but the embargo and Sri Lanka, are better known for sapphire, but also produce very
has brought about some interesting developments in the ruby trade. attractive ruby. Indian ruby is large, opaque, and purplish in colour,
U.S. dealers who have inventory of jadeite or ruby from Myanmar are but the country does produce decent stars. Vietnam produces some
still permitted to sell the gems. Dealers outside the U.S. with existing ruby of very fine colour and clarity, but it appears that the supply
inventory of jade and ruby are not permitted to export it into the U.S. is sporadic.
This rule is not equitable, but trade regulations are rarely bilateral.
One of the really important alternative sources for ruby is Tanzania.
Gem quality jadeite jade is found in very few places in the world, and if Winza and other sources in Tanzania are producing ruby of exceptional
we want fine gem jadeite, we really rely on Myanmar alone. There are no colour. Tanzanian ruby is mostly noticeably included, but the colour
viable alternatives for the quality that makes Burma jade so famous. makes up for it.
How is this addressed in the jade trade? The demand for jadeite jade in Like Vietnamese ruby, much of the Tanzanian ruby has some blue
the U.S. has never been great. There are American collectors, of course, zones, but these don’t distract too much from the overall appearance.
but the market is far greater in Asian countries such as China and Japan. Substantial blue zones in a ruby can make the gem look purple, but
The jade industry will be able to carry on with minimal change in focus. most of the Tanzanian ruby has a slight pinkish tint to it. Some African
The United States is a far larger market for ruby, and the embargo has ruby has a tendency towards the orange, and this can detract from
prompted a demand from alternative sources. its desirability.
0100-0101.CJ_Gem_re.indd 98 7/16/09 11:21:18 AM

gemfeature
In all, the best Tanzanian rubies display a very attractive red colour, with The majority of Tanzanian ruby is, by stark contrast, untreated. One
inclusions that may be visible to the eye, but are often not distracting. similarity is areas of blue. The Tanzanian ruby can have small lines of
The inclusions are quite different in appearance from those seen in the blue colour tracing through the red gem, while the glass-filled ruby
heat-treated, borax flux healed Mong Hsu rubies from Myanmar, but are often has colourless fractures that are glass filled, but when tilted to a
often equally visible to the eye. The most substantial difference between direction parallel to the fracture, show a flash of blue colour along the
the Mong Hsu rubies and the Tanzanian rubies is that the Tanzanian filled fracture.
rubies are usually not subject to heat treatment, although they can be.
Glass filled ruby often originates from Africa, and when used to fill
Treatments the need for ruby that is not from Myanmar, the treatment should be
Heat treatment is a standard procedure for ruby, and can be detected by disclosed. The cost and value of this treated ruby should be substantially
the presence of flux-healed fractures, dissolved rutile needles or exploded different from the untreated Tanzanian ruby.
crystals. Tanzanian rubies tend to reveal crystals that are undamaged,
and therefore cannot have been subject to standard heat treatment. It is hard to predict when the U.S. will lift its ban, which, although
imposed only in the U.S., trickles through the gem industry as a whole.
One of the most prevalent treatments of ruby right now is glass filling. One possible advantage is the resulting urgent exploration for alternative
Glass filling of fractures and cavities in ruby has been carried out sources of ruby, but a disadvantage is that Myanmar really does produce
for many years, but in the past three years the practice has become very fine ruby, and a surge of glass-filled ruby to fill the void in the
widespread, with the quantity of glass involved sometimes surpassing meantime is likely to prove damaging to the ruby trade as a whole. [CJ]
the amount of ruby in a given specimen. Glass filling has become so
prevalent, and the substantial amounts of glass so obvious that there
The Canadian Gemmological Association is an educational organization that
is widespread discussion in the trade to establish terminology for the
provides training for both the professional gemmologist, and for the amateur.
extent of glass in a gem. There are cases in which so much glass is used The Canadian Gemmological Association provides its students with the latest
as a binding agent to hold unrelated fragments of ruby together that they information on gemstone discoveries, synthetics and treatments.
are trulyCJAug09_emforium
no longer ruby,copy.pdf 1
but are better6/23/09 11:20 AM
called “assembled.”
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0100-0101.CJ_Gem_re.indd 99 7/16/09 2:45:55 PM

industrybuzz
JCK Las Vegas

May 29-June 2, 2009
Despite what’s going on around us, we packed our bags along with our fellow
colleagues and headed to Sin City to report on the latest from the world of jewellery.
A resounding success, the show was buzzing with excitment and attracted about
2,700 international and domestic manufacturers from all retail categories. We saw
some old friends, and made some new ones. Check out our scrapbook from Vegas.
From left to right, top to bottom:

1. Eric Senftleben of Citizen Watch, Publisher Olivier Felicio and
Kevin Kaye of Citizen Watch.
2. Gillian Pommerehn from Crosby Marketing Communications and Jody Christian,
Marketing Director of Pandora Jewelry with Associate Editor Paul Aguirre.
3. Olivier Felicio with Ken Mulhall, Canadian Jewellers Association President & CEO.
4. Carol Besler and Greg Dowell, Cosmoda.
092-093.CJ_IndustryPhotos.indd 100 7/16/09 3:09:20 PM

CJ_AUG09_GJECP_Ad.indd 1 7/16/09 2:10:15 PM

industrybuzz
5. Olivier Felicio with the team behind Sanghavi Diamonds.

6. Brazil-based designer of Vianna jewellery Karla Antunes and
Canadian representative Kathy Reilly with Olivier Felicio.
7. Natasha Rupani of Low Cost Leader with Paul Aguirre.
8. Saverio Folino and Carlo Scalzo from Diamond 2 Scalzo Bros. Inc.
092-093.CJ_IndustryPhotos.indd 102 7/16/09 5:04:23 PM

CanadianJeweller.indt 1
CJ_AUG09_OpenBlue_Ad.indt 1 7/13/09
7/16/09 10:41:46
2:29:26 PM
AM
Western Canadian Jewellery Expo
August 12 - 14, 2009 | Halls B & C | Shaw Conference Centre | Edmonton, AB
925 Solutions 509, 511 Ion-Ray Co Ltd/Q-Ray 725

abemor.ca/Securehoop 801, 803 Ital Can Inc 313, 412
Allied Creations Inc 213 Italgem Inc 317, 319, 416, 418
Allura International/IBB International 201, 203, 300, 302 J Ifrah Ltd 519, 521, 618, 620
Almar Jewellery 224 JW Findings & Stones/JW Histed Diamonds 701, 800
Ampra Jewelry 118 Jewel Trade 312
Arezzo Import Export 325, 424 Jewelhouse Canada/EW Butch Cooper Agencies 617, 619
Arms table A Jewellers Mutual Insurance Co table B
AV Diamonds Inc 104, 106, 108 Jewellers Vigilance Canada table D
B & S (Canada) Inc 316 John’s Wholesale Jewelry Ltd 109-111, 113, 208, 210, 212
Bell Diamonds International 621 JSN Jewellery Inc 501, 503, 505, 600, 602, 604
Best Bargains 321, 420 Karat Imports Ltd 709, 711
Beverly Hills Jewellers Mfg Ltd 209, 308 Korite International 421, 520
BK Jewellery 417, 419 Lotus Jewellery Ltd. 716
Bulova Watch Co 101, 103, 200, 202 Luminar Creations Inc 120
Butterfly Gem 125 Master Design Ltd 409, 411, 508, 510
CBE Inc 609, 611, 708, 710 Nuco Charms 310
Cadman Mfg Co Ltd 116 Odyssey Time Inc 809, 811, 813
Canadian Jewellers Association table C O’Neill Diamonds 117, 216, 218
Celebrity Watch International 613 On Tap Resources Ltd 810
Concept Marketing Inc 808 Paragems Inc 220
Corona Jewellery Co 401, 403, 405, 500, 502, 504 Polar Ice & Polar Bear Diamond 601, 603, 605, 700, 702, 704
Courtney Gold Co 612 Polanti Watches Inc 718
Crown Pearl 320 Polypearl Canada Co 821
Custom Gold Mfg Ltd 513 Praash Jewels Inc/Gemsparkle Ltd 625
Dian Creations 819 Premier Pearl & Gem Co 724
Diarough Canada Sales Inc/Uni-Design Canada Inc 721, 820 Prestige Pak Inc 122, 124
Embix Watch Importing Co. 225 Pristine Ice/Devine 112
Empress 100, 102 Regal Imports Ltd 713, 812
Euro Jewellery – NS CNC 324 RNB Jewellery 217, 219, 221
Five Star Gold Inc 805, 807 Rousseau Chain Ltd 815, 817
Gee N’Gee Importers Ltd 517, 616 Royal Oxford 825A, 825, 823
Gem Connection Ltd 413, 512 Shiny Jewellers 309, 311, 408, 410
Gem Star Inc 525 Signature Engraving Systems Inc 318
Gemvision 211 Silverman Chapman & Reese Consulting 824
Gilo Creations 608, 610 SK Diamonds 703, 705, 802, 804
Gold-N-Diamonds Inc 717, 719, 816, 818 Sungems International (SGI) 301, 303, 305, 400, 402, 404
Greenwood General Insurance Agency Inc 205 Tom Jewellery 516, 518
IDD 712 Vandan Associates Inc 425, 524
IDI Design Group/Meira T Designs 119 Waldman Diamond Canada Ltd 98, 99
Incom Technical Solutions Inc 720 Wittnauer International 105, 204
Intermerge Canada Inc 114 Zakarian Jewellery Inc 624
International Gemological Institute (IGI) Corp 121 Zeghani 304
exhibitor lists as of July 2009

106-107.CJ_WSG_re.indd 104 7/17/09 9:55:06 AM

106-107.CJ_WSG_re.indd 105
124 125 224 225 324 325 424 425 524 525 624 625 724 725 824 825A 825
122 823
120 121 220 221 320 321 420 421 520 521 620 621 720 721 820 821
118 119 218 219 318 319 418 419 518 519 618 619 718 719 818 819
116 117 216 217 316 317 416 417 516 517 616 617 716 717 816 817
114 815
112 113 212 213 312 313 412 413 512 513 612 613 712 713 812 813
110 111 210 211 310 311 410 411 510 511 610 611 710 711 810 811
108 109 208 209 308 309 408 409 508 509 608 609 708 709 808 809
106 807
104 105 204 205 304 305 404 405 504 505 604 605 704 705 804 805
99 103 202 203 302 303 402 403 502 503 602 603 702 703 802 803
98 101 200 201 300 301 400 401 500 501 600 601 700 701 800 801
102
100
801A
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
TABLE A TABLE B TABLE C TABLE D
ENTRANCE
august 2009
CJ
105
showguide
7/17/09 9:55:26 AM
Expo Prestige
August 23 - 25, 2009 | Place Forzani | Laval, QC
Adora 105 Energizer Batteries 111 Morellato 327

Alpine 305 Entreprises Albert Baho Inc 228 Nautica (Montres) 511
Amore & Baci 611 Entreprises SHA Inc 305 Nina Ricci 214
Angelle & Cie 333 Epos 127 Noble Gift Packaging 133
Aquaseal 515 Ève 411 Orient 527
Aquegem 237 Fascini 527 Paj Canada Inc/Elle Jewellery 119
Arch Crown 305 Five Star Gold Inc 611 Pandora Jewelry 705
Aréli Ltée 205 Flair 515 Papillon Gemme 610
Arezzo Import Export Inc 710 Flica 219 Paragems Inc 413
Axcent 427 Foredom 305 Pfingst 305
Azur 605 Forever Jewellery 319 Philtzcraft Clocks 121
BK Jewellery 311 Frank Lloyd Wright 121 Prestige 105
Banda 111 Froidveaux 305 Prestige-Pak Inc 600
Barcelona-Bijoux Acier 222 Gemoro 305 Promo Inc 211
Begli 219 Gilles Maynard Inc 605 Q & Q Watches 111
Benjamin 115 Goldmaster 726 RMR Inc 411
Bergeon 305 Grobet 305 RNB Jewellery 718
Best Bargains 500 Guess 305, 511 Romanson 127
Beverly Hills Jewellers Mfg 433 Harley Davidson 121 Reliable Watch Materials 305
B Fly 610 Hermle 305 Renata 111, 305
Biarritz 527 Hortec 305 Rocar 515
Bijouterie Almar Inc 733 Ifrah 327 Rodanex 515
Bijouterie J Ifrah Ltée 327 ID X Change 526 Rodania Canada Inc 515
Bijoux La Scala 214 Importation Robert Beaulne Inc 220 Rodastar 515
Bijoux RNB 718 Infinity Titanium 526 Rosah 233
Boccia 427 Ital-Can Inc 505 Royal Canadian Mint 127
Bulova 121 Italgem Inc 526 Royal Chain 505
Bucsh 305 Jacques Benjamin 115 Royal Oxford 727
Butterfly Gem 610 Jean Michel 305 SK Diamonds USA 405
Canadian Jeweller Magazine 129 Jewellers Vigilance Canada 1022 Shiny Jewellers 233
Caprice 527 Jewellery Business Magazine 923 Silver & Co 415
Cerres 305 JSN Jewellery Inc 319 Sony Batteries 527
Cardinal 527 Kin Chong Gems & Jewellery Canada 533 Steelx 427
Christian Bourdin Enterprises 213 L & R 305 Storm London 127
Citadel 527 L’orée Du Fleuve 222 Studex 305
CL 605 La Bréa International Inc 427 Sun Gems - Diamant Canadian 222
Collection Papillon Gemme Inc 610 Lady Dream 311 Swank 527
Columbia 726 Larimar 214 Swiss Chic 515
Continental Geneve 127 Larus Inc 223 Syndicate Designs 726
Corona Jewellery Co 615 Lego 127 Tech-Emotion Inc 619
Québec Jewellers’ Corp Agora Libman & Co Ltd 726 Tecnigold 233
Création Le Grenier Ltée 333 Lotus - Montres 222 Tedora - Italy 223
Créations Malo Inc 105 Lumani 327 Teno 327
Créations RNB 718 Mabensa Inc 227 TFX 121
Creed Canada 214 Manufacture De Bijoux Gaby Inc 300 Thomas Sabo 327
Crown Pearl 825 Maple Leaf Diamonds 615 Time Force 127
Crystal World 214 Marc Ecko 511 Timex Canada Inc 305, 511
Danish Design 127 Martin Ross Group Inc 512 Tom Jewellery 311
Diamants En Fête 615 Maxell 305 Trofish 127
Diamond Days 615 Meira T Designs/IDI Design Group 700 Wenger’s Ltée 527
Diarough Canada 627 Melville Manor 133 Wittnauer International 121
Dumont 305 Michel Herbelin 327 Vigor 305
École De Gemmologie De Montréal 823 Milanor Inc 633 Yuno 427
Élite 527 Miss Sixty 427 Zeghani By Simon 704
Embix Cie D’Importation De Montres 127 Momodesign Watches 727 Zippo 305
Émotion 619 Monnaire Royale Canadienne 127 Zoppini Canada 327
exhibitor lists as of June 2009
108-109.CJ_Prestige_re.indd 106 7/16/09 4:49:40 PM

showguide
108-109.CJ_Prestige_re.indd 107 7/16/09 4:49:51 PM

Collections by JCK
August 30 - 31, 2009 | West Exhibit Hall A | Vancouver Convention Centre | Vancouver, BC
3DTechnics 714 Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company 1206

Allied Creations 1032 Jewelhouse Canada 1140
Almer Jewellery 1024 Jewellery Business 839
Atlantic Engraving Inc 1011 John’s Wholesale Jewelry Ltd 817
B & S Canada 905 Jordan Scott Designs Ltd/Plaza Group 1039
BH Multicom 1112 JSN Jewellery Inc 901
BK Jewellery 1001 KABANA 1008
Bell Diamonds International 1013 Karat Group Ltd 1228
Belle Brooke Designs Inc 1031 LaPerle Arina 933
Besh Distributing 1035 Lotus Jewellery Ltd 1108
Best Bargains 729 Maskwa Oteh Diamonds Inc 1029
Beverly Hills Jewellers Manufacturing 1005 Nicole Miller Fine Jewelry 929
Bob Jeffs 1125 Noble Gift Packaging 1101
Canadian Jeweller (CJ) Magazine 1239 Nuco Charms Inc 906
Canadian Noble House Ltd 908 PAJ Canada 1107
Ceylon Gems/Baza Gems 1128 Pandora Jewelry 900
Corona Jewellery Company 1000 Paramount Gems 910
Creative Gems Inc 924 Prestige Pak Inc 1025
Diamond Trading Co 1113 Rebecca 930
Diamplus 904 Sareen Jewelry 1033
Dian Creations 1104 Shiny Jewellers 1117
Flica Inc 917 Sholdt Design 1037
Gee ‘n Gee Importers Ltd 816 Signature Engraving Systems Inc 921
Gem Connection 1124 SK Diamonds 913
Gemological Institute of America 708 Spectrum Imports 1141
GemVision Corporation 716 The China Design Company (HK) Ltd 932
Gold-N-Diamonds Inc 1017 The Trendy Group 829
Greenwood General Insurance Agency Inc 825 Waldman Diamond Canada Ltd 1120
IDD 1006 World Trade Jewelers 929 B
IDI Design Group/Designs by Meira T 928 Zambia Association AG 1131
IGI 907 Zarlene Imports Inc 1129
Ital-Can Inc 813 Zeghani by Simon G 812
JW Findings & Stones Ltd 925

110-111.CJ_JCK Vancouver_re2.indd 108 7/16/09 4:48:26 PM

showguide
110-111.CJ_JCK Vancouver_re2.indd 109 7/16/09 4:48:40 PM

JCK Toronto
September 13 - 15, 2009 | South Building | Metro Toronto Convention Centre | Toronto, ON
AV Diamonds/Price Point Leader 1125 Eugene Gem Inc 640 Livingstone Jewelry Co Inc 541
Abbasi Inc 934 European Gemological Laboratory 1305 Lotus Jewellery Ltd 717
Access Security Products Ltd 1225 Fable Designs 1213 Makur Designs Inc 1037
Accudiam Inc 912 FINTRAC 1420 Maskwa Oteh Diamonds Inc 13
Advanced Computing Edge Ltd 1325 Five Star Gold Inc 1029 Metallic Evolution 749
AF Design Inc 1216 Flica Inc 807 Nipach Displays 9
Alfred Sung Watches 707 Franco Creations 914 Noble Gift Packaging 1217
Almar Jewellery Mfg 629 Gainerie 91 1018 Nouvo Mode International 713
Almer Jewellery 1136 Gee N’ Gee Importers Ltd 718 On Tap Resources Ltd 1137
Americas Gold 1143 Gem Scan International Inc 910 PAJ Canada 618
Amipi Inc 719 Gemsparkle Ltd 819 Pandora Jewelry 1207
Ampra International Inc 833 GemVision Corporation 1422 Paragems Inc 1119
Anatoli Inc 740 George Brown College 1409 Pearl Gallery North America Inc 916
Arezzo Import Export Inc 919 Gilo Creations 818 Prestige Pak Inc 925
BH Multicom 723 Girmal Inc 1418 Rand and Paseka 837
BK Jewellery 607 GM Gold & Diamonds 625 Rebeau Jewellery HK Ltd 915
Bagatelle Marketing 1334 Gold & Silver House Ltd 622 Ritone (Canada) Ltd 814
Belair Time Corp 1236 Gold-N-Diamonds Inc 1129 RNB Jewellery 729
Besh Distributing 748 HL Mfg Inc 737 Royal Nepal Handicraft 11
Best Bargains 1327 HYC Design Inc 747 Royal Oxford Inc 1141
Beverly Hills Jewellers Mfg 1014 Icetime International 1237 Sakura Bijou 642
Butterfly Gem 937 IDD 1303 Schindler Technologies/Solidscape 1421
CA Links Inc 619 IDI Design Group/Designs by Meira T 813 Shiny Jewellers 1021
Christian Bourdin Enterprises 836 IGI 1011 Signature Engraving Systems Inc 715
Canadian Gem (Gemperle) 1007 India Gems 636 Silver Trendz 815
Canadian Gemmological Association 1307 Ion-Ray Co Ltd/Q-Ray 822 Silverman, Chapman & Reese Consulting 635
Canadian Jeweller Magazine 1317 Ital-Can Inc 821 Simplex Diam Inc 1028
Canadian Jewellers Association 1314 Italgem Inc 1114 SK Diamonds 1113
Carmen Jewellery Inc 1118 JK Designs 1215 St Eligius Jewellers 721
Chain Hoop LLC 932 Jewel of Scandinavia Inc 828 Standout Design 1036
Creative Gems Inc 1019 Jewelers Mutual Insurance Co 8 The China Design Company (HK) Ltd 744
Creed Canada 736 Jewellers Vigilance Canada 1315 The Nirvana Group 1132
Delcam 917 Jewellery Business 1321 The Trendy Group 817
Designs Unlimited 10 Jewelry Land 829 Traders Jewellery Corp 1128
Diamplus 1017 Jordan Scott Designs Ltd/Plaza Group 750 United Precious Metals 732
Diamport Corp 1015 JSN Jewellery Inc 1107 Vivian Jewelry 840
Embassy of Indonesia Commercial Trade 529 Kabana 816 World’s Gold & Diamonds 1229
EMBIX Watch Co 1040 Kev Diamonds Inc 612 Zeghani by Simon G 811
Emforium Group Inc 634 Kin Chong Gems & Jewellery 507 Zinzi Jewels 745
ERL Diamonds Inc 716 Legrand Jewellery Co Ltd 1117 Zoppini Canada 907
Eternal Diamonds 1110 Lisa Ridout Exclusive Jewellery 741

112-113.CJ_JCK Toronto.indd 110 7/16/09 4:45:46 PM

showguide
112-113.CJ_JCK Toronto.indd 111 7/16/09 4:46:11 PM

september 13 – 15, 2009 w METRo ToRonTo ConvEnTion CEnTRE w ToRonTo, CAnAdA
Fashion Forward. Business Focused.

discover JcK ToronTo.
Connect with Canada’s most-celebrated jewellery event the most influential jewellery professionals in the business.
of the year – JCK Toronto. All the excitement and prestige of Witness the very latest fashion-forward trends in fine jewellery,
an official JCK event, with a keen business focus on Eastern diamonds, gemstones and timepieces — all right here, at the
Canada’s jewellery marketplace. Join us for three days of very best buying season, just in time for the holidays. JCK
discovering, learning, buying, selling and networking with Toronto, where the Canadian jewellery industry comes to shine.
REgisTER AT www.JCKtoronto.CA oR CAll 800-346-8372 oR 416-756-0303.
source code: Ad3 charm image used with permission by Pandora Jewelry, U.s. Pat. no. 7,007,507
CJ_AUG09_Reed_Exhibitions_JCK_Ad.indt 1 7/13/09 10:46:15 AM

PAGE GET FREE INFORMATION! on any product advertised in this issue
sectionhead
113 SEE A PRODUCT YOU LIKE? WANT MORE INFORMATION, ABSOLUTELY FREE?…
2. Use this quick

BY FAX 1. See product you reference list 3. Write the 4. Mail or fax us at 5. Receive free info
want info on below to find its number(s) on 1-888-849-0155 direct from as
OR MAIL free info number the attached free or 416-703-6392 many advertisers
(it’s also on the ad) info card as you like
CONNECT WITH… page write # CONNECT WITH… page write #

Siffari 2 101 Rousseau Chain Imports 30 132
Sapir Diamonds 3 102 MCD Pearl Imports 30 133
Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company 4-5 103 Mirko Engravings Ltd. 32 134
CMP Asia 6 104 O’Neill Diamonds Inc. 33 135
Stuller 7 105 Ambermart 36 136
JSN Jewellery 8 106 Thomas Sabo Sterling Silver 37 137
JSN Jewellery 9 106 Boma Jewelry For Life 40 138
Charriol 11 107 Pandora 41 139
CGM 13 108 Thomas Sabo 45 140
Gee’N Gee Importers 15 109 Nova Diamonds Inc. 53 141
Gee’N Gee Importers 16 110 Maskwa Oteh Diamonds Inc. 57 142
Muehle-Glasheutte Canada 16 111 Zeghani By Simon 59 143
CGM 16 112 Diarough 61 144
Siffari 16 113 Bulova 65 145
GS Laboratories 17 114 Optimum Importation Frey Wille 79 146
JSN Jewellery 18 115 Wenger’s Cardinal 71 147
Atlantic Engravings 18 116 The Trendy Group 72 148
Jewelers Mutual 18 117 Best Bargains 73 149
Pandora 18 118 Diamond 2 Scalzo Bros. Inc. 77 150
Atlantic Engravings 19 119 Optimum Importation Bernd Wolf 79 151
Charriol 20 120 Sanghavi Diamonds Inc. 85 152
Mirage/Nova 20 121 Inkas 88 153
Stuller 20 122 A.V. Diamonds 89 154
Diarough Canada 20 123 Noble 95 155
Jomark - Le Gi 21 124 Lotus 97 156
GJEPC 21 125 Emforium 99 157
GS Laboratories 21 126 Gem & Jewellery Export Promo Council (GJECP) 101 158
Vienna 21 127 Open Blue Networks 103 159
Five Star Diamond 23 128 Reed Exhibitions 112 160
Vienna 25 129 Corporation des Bijoutiers du Quebec 117 161
Muehle-Glasheutte Canada 27 130 Jomark 123 162
House of Jewellery 29 131 Mirage Creations 124 163
STEP 1
*FREE
 Yes! Please send me or continue to send me Canadian Jeweller magazine
Info Card & Subscription
To receive free information you must print clearly and fill out form completely.
STEP 2 To qualify, check circles:

 No, don’t send
Selling area of your store
 under 1,000 sq.ft.  1,001 - 3,000 sq.ft.
Signature: __________________________________________ Date: _______________ Which category best describes your  3,001 - 5,000 sq.ft.  over 5,000 sq.ft.
business classification?
Your Name: _________________________________________ Title: ________________  Education
Approximate annual sales volume
 under $500,000
 Retailer
Company Name: ___________________________________________________________  Manufacturer
 $500,000 - $1 million
 $1 million - $5 million
 Wholesaler
Address: _________________________________________________________________  $5 million - $10 million
 Importer
 $10 million - $20 million
 Designer
City: ________________________________ Province: ___________________________  over $20 million
 Services (repair, appraisals, etc.)
Postal Code: ______________________________________________________________  Other: ________________________________ Categories you personally manage
 Retailer  Designer
Number of employees at your location
Phone: ______________________________ Fax: _______________________________  1-3  4-8  9-12  over 13  Gemologist  Supplier
 Manufacturer
Email Address (optional): _____________________________________________________ Number of locations: ______________________  Other _________________________________
STEP 3 Reserved exclusively for retailers

AUGUST 2009
WRITE IN THE NUMBERS HERE FOR
EACH PRODUCT YOU WANT MORE Example
DETAILED INFORMATION ON
USE QUICK REFERENCE LIST AT TOP OF PAGE

101
STEP 4
Fax Now to: 1-888-849-0155 or 416-703-6392 | or Mail card today to: 60 Bloor St. West, Suite 1106, Toronto, ON, M4W 3B8
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m AUGUST 2009 CJ 113
103.CJ_FaxBack_re.indd 113 7/17/09 1:29:58 PM

showcase
A D V E R T I S I N G
For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.
JEWELLERY POS
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REV.showcase:Layout 11/25/08 4:48 PM Page 1
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Best Lightboxes Made - Guaranteed

Printers of duratrans and other
print solutions
Large Gallery of Artwork on Website

Untitled-2 1
to Create a Custom Graphic
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interested in distributing signage to retailers
www.duratran.com
114 CJ J U N E / J U LY 2 0 0 9 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
104-109.CJ_Showcase-MarketJUNE.indd 114 7/17/09 9:57:59 AM

showcase
MCD
For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please Showcase:Layout
contact: 1 2/25/09
Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 10:34
ext. 6117 or e-mailAM Page 1
lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.
MCD Pearl Imports

A selection of pearl strands, loose pearls
and pearl jewellery.
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T (416) 368-2690 • F (416) 368 2426
Email info@mcdpearls.com
109-302 carlaw ave. toronto on. m4m 3l1

studio:
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we make cad/cnc this easy:
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For your Free Catalogue fax or e-mail your request See us at: www.readymounts.com
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m j u n e / j u ly 2 0 0 9 CJ 115

showcase
J.W. Histead showcase ad:Layout 1 3/4/09 1:41 PM Page 1
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• Repair of heat-sensitive pieces J.W. HISTED DIAMONDS LTD.
• Connection of different metals Vancouver, B.C.
• Welding of special chains, assembly of particular components
• Welding alloy frames and joints of dental 1-800-663-1458
Stock Number: 5403700 Online inventory
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OUTILLAGES ET MACHINERIES POUR BIJOUTERIE / COMPLETE LINE OF JEWELRY SUPPLIES
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John’s Wholesale Jewelry Ltd.

1255 PHILLIPS SQUARE #208, MONTRÉAL, QC. H3B 3G1
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MIYOTA•ETA•RONDA•BERGEON•SE•FE•MAXELL•PANASONIC•SEIKO•CITIZEN MANUFACTURERS & WHOLESALERS
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Toll Free: Tel: 1-888-SOMAL 99 FAX: 1-877-SOMAL 77 quantity last address: 900-736 Granville Street, Vancouver, BC V6Z 1G3
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CBQ_AD_CJ_BIL_2009:70627_PUB CORPO CJ BIL 4/10/09 10:54 AM Page 1
39e édition • 39th edition
AU SERVICE DE L’INDUSTRIE
Salle d'exposition moderne
ayant 1 200 places de
stationnement gratuit,
DE LA BIJOUTERIE
plusieurs hôtels à proximité.
Un service de navettes vers
le Salon du cadeau.
SERVING THE Modern Exhibition Hall with

1200 free parking spaces.
JEWELLERY INDUSTRY
Several Hôtels at proximity.
A Shuttle service to the
Montreal Gift Show.
23 au 25 août 2009 | Place Forzani, 4855, rue Louis-B.-Mayer, Laval

Venez découvrir la 39e édition du plus prestigieux et important salon de la bijouterie au
Canada. Un rendez-vous essentiel où vous seront révélées les toutes nouvelles tendances.
August 23 to 25, 2009 | Place Forzani, 4855 Louis-B.-Mayer Street, Laval

Discover the 39th edition of the most prestigious and important Jewellery Trade Show in
Canada. An essential rendez-vous with all the latest trends.
Pour plus d’information / For further information

868, rue Brissette, Sainte-Julie (Québec) J3E 2B1
Tél. : 514 485-3333 • Fax : 450 649-8984
E-mail : info@cbq.qc.ca • www.cbq.qc.ca
À votre service depuis plus de 56 ans! • At your service for more than 56 years!
CJ_AUG09_Corporation_des_Bijoutiers_Ad.indd 1 7/16/09 2:00:26 PM

marketplace
AB A.B. MACHINERY
PULSE POINT STUDIO 60 STUDIO 30
LASER WELDERS
Plastic New & Used machinery and
equipment for jewellers
Injectors BUY - SELL - TRADE
New & Used
www.abmachinery.com
Tel: (514) 737-1660 Toll Free: (888) 901-8888
Fax: (514) 737-9335 Email: alex@abmachinery.com
• GOLD • PALADIUM
ALLOYCO
Urgent ad proof!
• YELLOW • PLATINUM
• WHITE • INTERNATIONAL
SILVADIUM To: INCGail Sheppard
555 Richmond Street West
• PINK • STEEL Company: CGA
Toronto ON M5V 3B1 CASTINGEmail: info@canadiangemmological.com
• GREEN • PRESET SINCE 1986
T (416) 203-6737 x 317
• STERLING • MOLDS Phone: 416-785-0962
F (416) 203-1318
• BRONZE • ALLOYS From: Kathy Toufighi
kathy@style.ca Pages: 1
www.canadianjeweller.com CALL TOLL FREE: 1-888-475-5384 Date:
Phone: 514-845-5384 alloyco@alloyco.com www.alloyco.comOct. 31, 2006
Space:H2T 2S6
55 Mont-Royal W., Suite 600, Montreal, Quebec, Canada Mrkplc proof in Buyers’ Guide
Please view your ad and fax

back with your approval ASAP.
Date:
Edmonton Findings House Ltd.

Watch and Jewelery Supplies
Clock and Watch Movements
All Kinds of Batteries & Watch Crystals
Wax Patterns, Gem Stones, & Findings
Packaging, Bags, Boxes & Displays
Ph: (780) 452-8693
10524 - 124 St.
Fax: (780) 452-8693
Edmonton, Alberta
Website: www.efjewelrysupply.com
Canada T5N 1R9
Email: efhouse@hotmail.com
EdmontonFindings.indd 1 7/16/09 11:45:31 AM

Gesswein ad Marketplace:Layout 1 12/12/08 3:21 PM Page 1
marketplace
EXPRESS GOLD REFINING LTD.

PRECIOUS METALS DEALER
ASSAYING • REFINING •
>>www.gemvision.com
got mill?
• NO MINIMUM LOTS OR MINIMUM CHARGES
• 4TH GENERATION EXPERIENCE
IN PRECIOUS METALS TRADE
LET US EARN YOUR TRUST
Web: www.xau.ca Shele Letwin
Tel: (416) 363-0584 • Fax: (416) 363-9633 • Toll Free: 1-888-401-1111 Ph: 866.299.1702
21 Dundas Square, Suite 401, Toronto, ON M5B 1B7 Email: GV Design Canada
info@xau.ca The New Revo540C Dual-SpiNDle MilliNg SySTeM GemVision - “We will show you how.”
Your Total Source of Quality Tools & Equipment
317 Attwell Drive, Toronto, Ontario M9W 5C1

Telephone: 416-675-9171
Toll Free : 800-263-6106 www.gesswein.com
24 hr Fax : 888-269-0106 email: sales@gessweincanada
GOLD DEPOT
PLATINUM CASTING GRAIN, IRIDIUM, RUTHENIUM
Available for Immediate Delivery

All Precious Metals Bought, Traded and Refined
Call our Hotline for Prices: 416-366-GOLD (4653)

Tel: 416-366-6031 and 416-366-8193 • Fax: 416-366-3499
27 Queen Street East, Suite 901, Toronto, Ontario
Golden Gems Canada Inc.

All Kinds of Coloured Gemstones
ELIABLE
offer FAST & R ICE
Now we SERV
elding
Laser W ice 21 Dundas Square, Suite 412
Serv Toronto, ON M5B 1B7
P: 416-368-2991
F: 416-368-6069
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m J U N E / J U LY 2 0 0 9 CJ 119

marketplace
COM
H & W PERRIN
5/5/09 Co.
mperial Smelting Marketplace REVad:Layout 1 7:52 PM Ltd
Page 1 WATCH ING SOON:
GLASS C
UTTING
Canada’s Leading Supplier of Watch & Clock Materials
PERRINS’ stocks a complete range of findings and settings for the jeweller and a JUST ARRIVED! JEWELLERY BOXES AND DISPLAYS
deep stock of materials for the clock & watchmakers VIEW OUR SELECTION ONLINE
We inventory a large selection of tools, equipment & supplies for all the trades.
A long standing tradition of service since 1929.
If you aren’t doing business with us, you’re doing it the hard way! FOIL BACKS, SYNTHETICS -WEDDING BANDS
-MOUNTS
GENUINES, MARCASITES
-TENNIS MOUNTS
PHONE: (416) 422-4600 . . . . . .Toll Free 1-800-387-5117 PEARLS/SEED PEARLS -RINGS, CHARMS
FAX: (416) 422-0290 . . . . . .Toll Free 1-800-741-6139 BEADS/BEAD STRANDS -BANGLES, BRACELETS
ROSE CUT GARNETS -PLATINUM JEWELLERY
� sales@perrin.on.ca CONCAVE CUT MYSTIC -CHAINS
-ITALIAN JEWELLERY
yout 1 12/10/08 6:52 PM Page 1 TOPAZ, ONYX, RUBIES,
SAPPHIRES, EMERALDS, -FINDINGS
-TITANIUM & TUNGSTEEN
CAMEOS AND MORE
A leader in the Canadian Jewellery JEWELLERY
Industry since 1914

VOLUME DISCOUNTS SERVICE WITH RESPECT
1-800-263-1669
905 475-9566
Part of the Umicore Group www.imperialproducts.com
5/6/09 10:31 AM Page 1
LaLa Diamond Cutting & Repairs Inc.
• Cutters of Rough Diamonds
Actual size 3.9" by 2.0"

• Old Mine Cuts and Repairs to All Shapes
• Buy Diamond Roughs and Broken Diamonds
21 Dundas Square, Suite 805

Toronto, Ontario M5B 1B7
Tel/Fax: (416) 368-6883
email: lala.diamond@hotmail.com Refine-All Metals Ltd.
Refining - Assaying - Trading
Precious metal specialists and refiners of gold and platinum jewellery scrap
Check for our refining specials and alloy products

MOISSANITE CANADA At: www.refinegold.ca
Reflect the brilliance of your life
and www.goldrefiner.ca
~
With more brilliance and luster than any popular Let Us Earn Your Confidence-Call Us Before You Refine
gemstone including diamond, ruby, sapphire and emerald Tel: (416)7366052 Fax:(416)7364334 Toll Free:1-800-785-2371
no other gemstone or jewel compares to Moissanite. 359 Canarctic Drive,Downsview, Ontario, M3J 2P9
Web:www.refinegold.ca www.goldrefiner.ca E-mail: info@refineallmetals.com
~
Tel: 416-366-7295 Fax: 416-366-3966
215 Victoria St, Suite 201 Toronto ON M5B 2T9

marketplace
Restringing Centre Inc.

The Diamonds You Need.
All expert pearl restringing done on our premises to our loyal
customers since 1980 • Wholesaler of pearl jewellery and In Stock. Overnight.
14kt gold diamond clasps.
55 Queen Street East Tel: 416-368-9632

Suite 1402 Fax: 416-368-1833
Toronto, ON M5C 1R6 Toll Free: 1-866-997-9943 We carry finely cut diamonds ranging
Canada restringcentre@bellnet.ca from .01 ct to 3.00 ct in a variety of
shapes including round brilliant,
princess, radiant, ascher, emerald, heart,
classified pear, marquise and oval.

Included in our inventory are CANADIAN diamonds.
A D V E R T I S I N G Selection, Service and Value

For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine
Urgent ad proof!
a family tradition since 1955
please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com. www.wmolldiamonds.com
To: Rob
Phone 416.364.9748 • Toll Free 1.800.361.8894 • Fax 416.364.9738
60 Bloor Street West Suite 1106
son’s classifed 6/10/09 4:12 PM PageLINES
1 WANTED 21Company:
Dundas Square, SuiteOmni Jewelcrafters
1403 • Toronto, Ontario M5B 1B7
Toronto ON M4W 3B8
QUEBEC, EXPERIENCED AND WELL CONNECTED SALES Email: rob@omnijewelcrafters.com
REP/AGENT IS LOOKING FORTel: 416-203-7900
LUXURY FASHIONExt. 6110
SWAROUSKI From: Christine Ager Smyth
COLLECTION + BRIDAL DIAMONDS PRODUCTS + AFFORDABLE
Fax: 416-703-6392 Pages: 1
WATCH LINE WITH MERCHANDISING MATERIAL.
production@rivegauchemedia.com Date: May 28th, 2009
CLAUDE • 418.208.0741 www.canadianjeweller.com
• ckavantage@hotmail.com
Space: Proof 1 classy ad single
Sales Agents Wanted classified

of retail product including an excitingPlease view your ad and fax
Seeking well established sales agents to carry a variety
new
Jakob line of
Bauer newcharm
classified.qxd:Layout 1 6/2/09 A D 2:23 V EPM GBARmarketing
T I1 S
Page I N G1 3/24/09 2:35 PM
class.:Layout Page 1
back with your approval ASAP.

jewelry to Jewelers across Canada. For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine
Please forward resume by fax 416.422.0290 please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.
or by email sales@perrin.on.ca
OWN YOUR OWN
Signature:
SAFE FOR SALE Date: RECESSION RESISTANT
German Goldsmith looking for work anywhere FRANCHISE!
Jewellery safe for sale. Rated to $1 million, in Canada (full or part time). I work directly
World’s Largest Jewellery
FOR SALE
with double combination digital lock. in the metal using techniques like: filing,
SERVICES
Ultima 2008 Ltd. classified:Layout 1 6/19/09 1:13 PM Page 1 and Watch Repair
Dimensions: 30" wide x 48" high x 31" chasing, soldering, cutting, inlaying, bending,
Franchise is Looking to
deep. Original price $6,000. riveting, also helping customers and
Sale price $3,400 plusActual size Expand in a Mall Near You.
moving costs. designing jewellery. For more information
Make money for yourself and
Call 416.318.8698. or resume contact Jakob at 778-828-2335. take control of your future!
• High Traffic Locations
AGENTS/REPS WANTED STORES WANTED • Extremely High Gross Margins

BUSINESS OPPORTUNITIES
AGENTS/ REPS WANTED
• Low Inventory Costs

Innovative Jewellery Company is seeking We are looking to purchase non-mail • 25 Year Proven Record
an experienced professional salesperson jewellery locations. Preference will be given • Full Training, No Exp Nec.
with a strong following among the major to high-visibility locations. We will acquire
retailers and jewellery chain stores. your inventory, leaseholds and lease. We WE THRIVE IN ANY ECONOMY!
Call Rob at 1-877-640-0850. pay top dollar. Please contact in full (800) 359-0407
Email gjs-sales@canada.com. confidence, jack@omnijewelcrafters.com www.fastfix.com
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m j u n e / j u ly 2 0 0 9 CJ 121

lastword
Spanish Artist and Painter Pablo Picasso once said:
“ Through art we express our

”
conception of what nature is not.
Aptly titled “It’s A Boy,” we were taken aback by this stunning neckpiece by world-renowned Mexican jewellery makers Sabido & Basteris. It represents the moment of
conception with dyed, knitted silver in three colours (yellow, orange, red) symbolizing the uterus and silver pieces spelling out XY, the chromosome markup for a male. They
also cultivated coin pearls to represent an egg and sperm — mesmerizing once one uncovers the concept. Any woman who dons it will be sure to make it known she’s the boss.
With a successful launch in the US in Spring 2009, we’re happy to bring you a first look at this collection before it hits the Canadian market. Retails at $7,500 USD.
– Paul Aguirre
118.CJ_LastWord.indd 122 7/16/09 11:06:46 AM

CJ_AUG09_Jomark_Ad.indd 1
7/16/09 2:16:28 PM
Mirage Creations Inc.

221 Victoria Street, Lower Level, Toronto, Ontario, Canada M5B 1V4
Local: (416) 366-9595 Toll Free: (877) BY MIRAGE Fax: (416) 366-9677
www.miragecreations.com e-mail: info@miragecreations.com
Mirage_Nova_1_Ad.indd 1 7/16/09 2:26:07 PM

Canadian Jeweller August 2009

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AUGUST 2009

at staying strong in the market

Refined and Reformed

001.CJ_Cover.indd 1 7/17/09 11:39:23 AM

Canada’s REAL Diamond House.

CJ_AUG09_Sapir_Ad.indd 1 7/16/09 1:39:35 PM

“I insure with Jewelers Mutual to protect

My dad started this business more than

Jewelers Mutual is proud to pay Jewellers Vigilance

Frank Damiani APPRAISERS

JM.indd 2 7/16/09 1:40:41 PM

For details, write #103 on Free Info Page, page 113

JM.indd 3 7/16/09 1:41:04 PM

UBM Asia Ltd

9JW09 GEM Ad 229x276_ENG.indd 1 2009/6/24 10:53:59 AM

For details, write #105 on Free Info Page, page 113.

Stuller. The beauty of it all.™

CJ_AUG09_Stuller_Ad.indd 1 7/10/09 3:12:19 PM

Judy Richards Guest Editor

Paul Aguirre Associate Editor | paul@rivegauchemedia.com

Scott Jordan Art Director | design@rivegauchemedia.com

Melanie Seth Accounting and Administration | finance@rivegauchemedia.com

CONTRIBUTORS Gordon Feller, Robin Gambhir, Howard Grosfield,

Jeff Yamaguchi ADVERTISING Sales

Deborah Brewster circulation Manager

Head Office 60 Bloor Street West, Suite 1106

Montreal Office 555 Chabanel Street West, Suite 1507

Official magazine of the JVC

For details, write #106 on Free Info Page, page 113

008.CJ_Masthead.indd 8 7/16/09 2:37:00 PM

CJ_AUG09_JSN_Ad.indd 1 7/10/09 3:16:01 PM

52 Refined and Reformed

A survey of the silver jewellery industry.

66 Bridal to the Bank

An update on the Responsible Jewellery Council.

Small businesses adapt to stay afloat during tough times.

010-012.CJ_Contents.indd 10 7/16/09 5:10:38 PM

For details, write #107 on Free Info Page, page 113

F or more inFormation about C harriol in C anada please ContaCt

Bella OrO Fine Jewelry | 604.688.3111

bellaoro-cdnjeweler0609.indd 1 6/25/09 11:19 AM

CJ_AUG09_Charriol_Ad.indd 1 7/16/09 1:45:07 PM

26 For The Record

010-012.CJ_Contents.indd 12 7/16/09 5:11:20 PM

PROMPT MAIL ORDER

BEADS STERLING SILVER...

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BALL EARRINGS Precious and Semi Precious Beads...

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CHECK ONLINE for NEW ARRIVALS and “SPECIALS OF THE MONTH”

014.CJ_Directors.indd 14 7/16/09 11:26:36 AM

We proudly introduce Pour Homme, our new

Our jewellery is hand crafted with the upmost

For more than three decades we have striven to

Now available for men.

Please call to order our new catalogue.

geengee.com toll free: 1.800.663.0177

400 - 736 Granville Street

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Pour Homme Form Meets Function

CGM’s Selection Siffari Collection Shines

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