Professional Documents
Culture Documents
22
nd
April 2015
Introduction:
1985. Joe and Simon two British friends where climb 6344 Meter in Peru. After
fifteen years they published the Book was turned in to documentary film of the
TOUCHING THE VOID name. Their aim was to conquer the unclimbed West
face of a notorious 21,000Ft peak. Simon slipped down an ice cliff and landed
awkwardly, crushing his tibia in to his knee joint, thus breaking his right leg. The
pair whose trip had already take longer than they intended. Due to bad weather
on the ascent had run out of fuel their stove and could they needed to descend
quickly to the glacier about 3000- feet below.
Proceeded to lower Simon by trying to tying two 150 -foot lengths of rope
together to make one 300-foot rope. However, could not go through the belay
plate and with storm condition worsening Simon have to stand on his good leg
and could to give slack to unclip the rope, in order thread the rope back through
the he could not see or hear Simon. Joe, He was fell Simon weight on the rope
.because his hand badly frost-bitten. He unable to tie the knots properly
accidently dropped one of the cords (Tools use for claiming) required to ascend
to the rope. Joe He make a very hard decision to cut the rope to save his own
life. As well Simon life. Because he been remained freezing wind for much
longer. Joe dropped down in to deep crevasse .and suffering from hypothermia
next day Joe climb the mountain by himself. When he reached the crevasse he
realized the situation that Simon had died the mounting alone .however, Simon
was still alive. And lower himself deeper I to the crevasse and how that there
was and the way out .After lowering himself, found another small entrance and
limbed back. Via a steep snow slope from there spent three days.
The end:
Survived and returned to his Friends. In conclusion, I am sure we were all like to
think we would have found a different solution but most of us probably would
not. Regardless, of Simons failures after that climb, his lack of knowledge or
ability to pass that. (Knot) I don't think he was wrong for cutting the rope.
Lessons:
I learn to avoid the risks .If it is harm me. Also I have learned to have quick
decision whenever is required. In order to save something. Do not put myself in
trouble. To not get blamed.
S980023315
Y2, Sec 51
Summary:
The approach to Siula Grande is a two-day hike from the nearest road
The climbers, Joe Simpson and Simon Yates, establish a base camp about
4-5 miles from the mountain. Then they set off...
The route to the mountain passes a glacial lake, followed by a long hike up
a valley and over the glacier itself.
Simpson and Yates climb 'alpine style,' with no fixed ropes or camps. They
carry everything they think they will need. They intend to climb up and
down the mountain in a three-to-four day push.
The drawback of 'alpine style' in the wilderness is that if something goes
wrong, there's no chance of a rescue. You're on your own.
The western face of Siula Grande has never been successfully climbed.
That's part of the appeal.
Day one goes well. Good weather. Clean snow and ice.
In the evening, about halfway up the face, Simpson and Yates dig a snow
cave and camp.
Climbing at high altitude leads to severe dehydration, so the climbers
have to melt lots of snow for water. They're carrying a limited amount of
food and fuel.
DAY TWO: The weather deteriorates...
And the climbing becomes difficult, exhausting, and dangerous.
It's exhausting to climb vertical ice, snow, and rock, even at sea level. At
18,000-20,000 feet, your heart races, and you gasp for breath
As Simpson and Yates near the top of the face, they run into trouble
Deep powder snow clings to extremely steep slopes. They have to fight
their way upward, with nothing to hang onto.
The climbing is so difficult that they progress only a few hundred feet in 56 hours.
Darkness has fallen, and the wind chill is brutal, so they dig another snow
cave and spend a second night on the face
DAY THREE: The weather has cleared. The climbers see what has been
giving them such trouble
Andean snow formations called 'flutings,' which are famously dangerous
and difficult.
Simpson and Yates continue upward. By mid-day on the third day, they
reach the ridge.
Exhausted, but relieved, they follow it to the summit
Upon reaching it, they become the first climbers to successfully scale the
west face of Siula Grande
Then, behind schedule, low on food and fuel, they head down, knowing
that most climbing accidents happen on the descent
Again, the weather deteriorates. Soon the climbers are lost in a white-out.
The conditions are so treacherous that Yates falls through a cornice and off
the ridge. The rope stops his fall, and he struggles back up.
Soon thereafter, the climbers decide to bivouac again
That night, their third on the mountain, they use the last of their fuel
DAY FOUR: The next morning, the weather is clear. Simpson and Yates are
still high on the mountain, but the toughest section of the ridge is behind
them. They began to think they have the climb 'in the bag.'
Then Simpson reaches a section of the ridge that drops off sharply. He
turns around to descend it, using his ice axes for holds.
Near the top, unhappy with his left-hand axe placement, he removes the
axe from the ice to reset it
Suddenly, the right axe gives way.
Simpson falls, landing with his right leg fully extended. The impact drives
his lower leg bone through his knee joint, shattering his knee
The pain is excruciating.
Simpson's first thought, at 20,000 feet on a remote mountain ridge, is 'I
can't have broken my leg. If I've broken my leg, I'm dead
When the shock of pain has subsided, he tries to stand on the leg, hoping
he has just torn ligaments. He hears the bones grind and collapses in pain.
Above, oblivious to what has happened, Yates follows the rope forward.
When Simpson relays the news, Yates has the same apocalyptic thought:
'We're stuffed. We're going to be doing well if either of us get out of this
now.'
Yates gives Simpson some pain killers. Simpson assumes that Yates will
then leave him to die on the mountain. They are out of food and fuel. They
can't stay where they are. No help can reach them. And Simpson can't
move. So, what else can Yates do but save himself and leave Simpson?
To Simpson's surprise, Yates does not leave. Rather, he starts to dig a seat
in the snow. Then he sits in it and sets about lowering Simpson down the
~3,000-foot face.
The climbers only have two 150-foot ropes. They tie them together.
Simpson lies on his belly. Yates sits above him and lets out the rope.
Simpson begins sliding down the face on his belly.
Simpson slides feet first. Fast. Every time his shattered leg hits the snow,
he feels a shock of excruciating pain
When Simpson has reached the end of the first 150 foot rope, Yates tugs
the rope. Simpson sets his ice axes and takes his weight off the rope.
Yates unhooks the rope and moves the knot through his belay plate. Then
he lowers Simpson another 150 feet on the second rope.
When they reach the end of the second rope, Simpson sets himself, and
Yates starts climbing down. Then Simpson stands on his good leg and
begins digging another snow seat. When Yates reaches him, they repeat
the lowering process again. And again. And again...
The weather remains terrible. Once again, night begins to fall