Wave Theory

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AutoPIPE Reference Information

Wave Theory
Ocean waves are a complex phenomena, which are difficult to describe in exact mathematical terms. However, many of their
characteristics can be described within acceptable limits. Various theories exist to predict the behavior of waves and the forces
they generate. The wave theories implemented in AutoPIPE are:
Airy (linear) wave
Stokes' wave (5th order)
Stream function (up to 10

th

order)

In addition, a steady current profile may be specified separately or in conjunction with the above wave models. The various
parameters that affect the characteristics of a wave are shown in Figure E-3.

Figure E-3

A plot of the water particles motion using Airy wave theory is shown below.

Wave Theory

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Figure E-4a
For deep-water waves, the particle orbits are circular and no motion is felt at the see bed. For intermediate water depth, the
motion is elliptical in general. For shallow-water waves, the motion is linear in the direction of wave motion and it does not vary
with depth. As can been seen from the orbits below, Airy wave orbits are stationary, while Stokes waves orbits move in the
direction of wave motion.

Figure E-4b

Airy wave is sinusoidal in shape while other higher order waves are not. Some typical wave shapes are shown below (after
Davidson-Arnott).

Wave Theory

Figure E-4c
See Also:
Regions of Validity for wave theory

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