Kya Kennett

August 6th, 2014

HONORS 394
Research Paper
Establishing a livelihood in Rome can be difficult, even for citizens, as evident by the
current high unemployment rate in Italy. Migrants and refugees who either move or are displaced
into Italy can find it even more difficult to be able to find work. Many must turn to the tourism
industry, and others find niches in multi-ethnic communities. The photo essay project my group
created focused on the different sectors of work which migrants find themselves in upon moving
to Italy. Our group focused on all different levels of work, from the most informal sector as a
street hawker, through different types of markets, and finally with established positions as cooks
or waiters in restaurants. I chose to focus on the Piazza Vittorio Market, also known as the
Mercato Esquilino. This establishment is a very prominent example of migrant workers, but it is
unusual because many of the vendors have either been in Italy for many years, or are in fact a
multi-generational operation of either an Italian or a migrant family. Through my experiences at
the market, I have been exposed to both the positive and negatives aspects of this type of work.
The vendors have found an opportunity to support themselves and be successful, but in some
ways they are constrained by it.
I made two visits to the Mercato Esquilino. The first visit I found that I was shy and a bit
overwhelmed, and chose simply observed what was going on around me. In the moment I was
surprised by how friendly yet not pushy the vendors were; while they all bestowed greetings, I
didnt feel as though they were continually calling out after me or trying to sell me things.
Comparing this experience to the other examples of migrant workers I had seen, I was curious
about why I felt this difference. I questioned whether perhaps they were interested to see tourists

in an area not often toured, if they maybe did see tourists but due to not feeling dependent on our
business they had just a different strategy. While I didnt have many meaningful interactions with
the vendors during this visit, I did take note of the different foods, languages, and people I saw.
The atmosphere was refreshing and more relaxed, and I found it interesting to see such a variety
of cultures interacting in a notably peaceful and pleasant way.1 Reflecting back now, it is
interesting to think about how this first interaction perhaps prepared me for my later research
because of the sense of familiarity and friendliness I felt, I felt more confident interviewing the
vendors later on. The first visit, I chose to focus on the human interactions, whereas the second
visit I was able to pay more attention to the evidence of cross-cultural interactions and the
specific ethnicities that were present.
The second visit had more purpose to my research I had decided to make it the focus of
my subtopic for this project. I was greatly assisted by my group in asking questions of the
vendors, and we tried to investigate exactly where these people were from and what their opinion
of Rome was. There were mainly very positive opinions, and there was an overwhelming
willingness to share experiences. I was intrigued by how excited people got to talk to us, even
though we generally didnt buy anything. The friendliness came through even the toughest of
language barriers.2 This visit gave a chance to really make sense of what made the market
notable and important; the people who work there and the atmosphere they create. We talked to
many different people, with varying types of produce and goods, and many different

1 Kya Kennett, Tumblr, Learning Journal 4 Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, last modified July 6th,
2014, accessed August 6th, 2014.
2 Ibid.

backgrounds. The market had a sense of establishment, and of sustainability and endurance, even
with the problems that could be observed.
In a country with such a high unemployment rate, and so much informal business and
economic issues for immigrants, Piazza Vittorio Market, or Mercato dellEsquilino, has in some
ways become a haven. The market is located near Termini, the surrounding area is known for its
multi-ethnic community, and this market is a prime example of cross-cultural experience. Two
fish sellers, whom we spoke with, Ashik and Alli, were very happy and excited while talking to
us. Ashik is from India, and has been in Rome for 7 years. We asked him if the fish were
imported from his area, he responded by laughing and saying that no, they were caught in the
area around Italy, and that he was just employed to sell them.3 He was quite young, not much
older than us, but he gave off a very positive energy.
Mercato dellEsquilino has been around for over 100 years, lasting through the Fascist
period. Following the world wars, it became much more ethnically diverse and a safe space for
immigrants to sell their produce. Originally it was held outdoors in the Piazza Vittorio, but it
eventually moved indoors in September 2001, after many years of debate over health concerns.
The market is run by a cooperative of sellers, many of whom have multiple generations working
in the stalls.4 Another gentleman we spoke to, Tarek, was from Bangladesh, and has been in
Rome for 12 years. He goes back to visit Bangladesh every 4 years. He sells halal meat in the

3 Ashik, interview by Gina Kim and Kya Kennett, Rome, Italy, July 3rd, 2014.
4 Markets of Rome, Former Piazza Vittorio market now new Esquilino market, last
modified April 17th, 2013, http://www.marketsofrome.com/markets/former-piazza-vittoriomarket-now-new-esquilino-market#a-walk-through-the-stalls.

market as a butcher.5 We also spoke with Biblob, who was next door to Tarek, and who is also
from Bangladesh. He has been in Rome for 15 years. The produce he sells is from Bangladesh,
Pakistan, and India. He was very interested in why we were talking to the butcher, and was
excited to have his picture taken when we told him we were students. He chose to engage us, but
not because he was trying to sell us something, but instead because he was curious. This genuine
interest, without the pressure of purchase, was something different then anything else I have
experienced in Rome.
The lack of a touristy atmosphere is something that stands out about the Mercato
dellEsquilino, as it is so prevalent in much of Rome. Many different blogs on the market have
exclaimed that they felt that the space was one of the most genuine places in Rome today6
something I personally agree with. The market is an example of what Rome is really composed
of today, which is immigrants and a melting pot of vendors and customers from many different
ethnic backgrounds. When people think of Rome and of Italy, they think of pasta, pizza, the
Colosseum, and this old-world cultured experience. After going to the Esquiline market, and
having this class overall, my view has changed. Rome is becoming a city of struggling
immigrants, in places like this market interacting in such a peaceful manner regardless of their
ethnicity in order to make a living in their new home.
Next we spoke with Andrea, from Ecuador. She has been in Rome for 19 years, and sells
Latin American foods. Although the neighborhood is known to be a multi-ethnic residential area,
5 Tarek, interview by Gina Kim and Kya Kennett, Rome, Italy, July 3rd, 2014.
6 TripAdvisor, Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II, last modified March 3rd, 2014,
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g187791-d246154-ReviewsPiazza_Vittorio_Emanuele_II-Rome_Lazio.html.

she said she didnt actually live that close by. Our language barrier was tough, and she had other
customers, so it was hard to tell why7 If I had been able to go back, I would have asked her if it
was due to her not wanting to live nearby, or if perhaps she could afford to live elsewhere
because of the money she makes. I wasnt able to find out much about the living situations of the
people who work their through other research.
One of the biggest draws for Mercato dellEsquilino is its abundancy of products found
nowhere else in Rome in many of the blogs and reviews I read discussing this market, almost
every single one manages to point out that they found something in the market that is rare or outof-place in Rome.8 Due to the diversity of ethnic origins of the vendors and the customers, stalls
started offering unusual products in order to cater to the needs of the surrounding population.
Another stall was run by Christina, a woman from Cameroon. She has been in Rome for
10 years, and returns to Cameroon every three months to get more supplies and products for her
stall. She mainly sells specialty spices. She didnt want us to take a picture of her with her stall,
because she said that her husband wouldnt like it. I was uncertain of why - perhaps due to
immigration issues, or perhaps because of a cultural norm.9
While the market presents, as stated in a New York Times article, a different vision, one
of an aging countrys future as a land of immigrants, marked by an easier coexistence through

7Andrea, interview by Gina Kim and Kya Kennett, Rome, Italy, July 3rd, 2014.
8 TripAdvisor, Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II, last modified March 3rd, 2014,
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g187791-d246154-ReviewsPiazza_Vittorio_Emanuele_II-Rome_Lazio.html.
9 Christina, interview by Gina Kim and Kya Kennett, Rome, Italy, July 3rd, 2014.

commerce,10 it still has its own set of immigrant issues. This became evident when we spoke
with Moisa, a Romanian man who has lived in Rome for 15 years. He is one of the few people
we ran into in the market who wasnt as happy with his lifestyle he seemed either unhappy
with working in the market and in Rome or trying to say that business wasnt that great.11
Although the market puts on a happy face for immigrants who have been able to get past many
of the struggles of coming to Italy, it is unable to escape them all. The New York Times article
mentions that Italy still struggles with racism and sergregation of immigrants - in many ways,
the Piazza Vittorio market is unfortunately an example of that.12 The migrants have had to find
their own space, a separate entity from the rest of Rome. The future is often uncertain for their
children, who arent Italian citizens. They market provides for them, but at the same time they
are limited by it.
Employment for migrants is a difficult endeavor, especially in places like Rome. Piazza Vittorio
Emanuele II has shown itself to be a sustainable enterprise, but it remains a limited option.
Working as a vendor is a difficult employment to obtain. The market manages to provide for a
need in this multi-ethnic community. Work in this market remains a half-way point between the
informal sector and employment by a company or restaurant, but for the vendors it has been a
mainly successful endeavor. I am curious how this market and area will change in the coming
10 Rachel Donadio, Vibrant Market Is Heart of Multiethnic Capital, New York Times, August
11th, 2013, http://www.nytimes.com/2013/08/12/world/europe/vibrant-market-is-heart-ofmultiethnic-capital.html?pagewanted=all&_r=1&.
11 Moisa, interview by Gina Kim and Kya Kennett, Rome, Italy, July 3rd, 2014.
12 Rachel Donadio, Vibrant Market Is Heart of Multiethnic Capital, New York Times, August
11th, 2013, http://www.nytimes.com/2013/08/12/world/europe/vibrant-market-is-heart-ofmultiethnic-capital.html?pagewanted=all&_r=1&.

years, especially as the refugee population grows. The endurance of this market for so long is an
amazing feat, and I expect it will continue to be an example of what a genuine Rome would look
like in the future.

Bibliography
Donadio, Rachel. Vibrant Market Is Heart of Multiethnic Capital. New York Times, August 11th,
2013. http://www.nytimes.com/2013/08/12/world/europe/vibrant-market-is-heart-ofmultiethnic-capital.html?pagewanted=all&_r=1&
Kennett, Kya. Tumblr. Learning Journal 2 Piazza Vittorio Emanuele. Last modified July 6th,
2014. http://passeggiatas.tumblr.com/post/90965526231/learning-journal-2-piazzavittorio-emanuele

Markets of Rome. Former Piazza Vittorio market now new Esquilino market. Last modified
April 17th, 2013. http://www.marketsofrome.com/markets/former-piazza-vittorio-marketnow-new-esquilino-market#a-walk-through-the-stalls
TripAdvisor. Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II. Last modified March 3rd, 2014.
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g187791-d246154-ReviewsPiazza_Vittorio_Emanuele_II-Rome_Lazio.html
Various vendors. Interview by Gina Kim and Kya Kennett. Research Interview. Rome, Italy, July
3rd, 2014.