LESSON PLAN: Waves The action of waves on the headland Refraction.

Do Now: Review from last period:

Read Summer and winter profiles page 85 Big Beguely.
Answer: Muriwai, Bethells, Piha etc They dont follow this model of summer and
winter profiles. Why?
Think whats different about the waves in different seasons? Why doesnt this
happen at Muriwai?
Note see Diagram 6.2 Bottom right.
So we know:
COMPLETE:
Waves are generated off shore.
Area over which they are generated is called fetch.
The greater the fetch area = the greater the waves. The stronger wind = the greater
the waves.
When waves have energy = they erode and transport.
When waves lose energy = they deposit sediment.
Wave break: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G1FIBuybN78
When the wave base = water depth: Water interacts
with sediment = Shoaling. = sed movement.
When water depth is < .5 wave height = break.
See page 66 Big Beguely. Which type of wave would
you expect to see? Why?
Remember = Muriwai is a dissipative beach face

Wave Refraction: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G1FIBuybN78

Stop at 1:30
Look at pictures on Big Beguely page 64. Why does no sediment collect at the
headland?

Wave Refraction 2: https://www.youtube.com/watch?

v=E9UJjdlTQQI&ebc=ANyPxKohp8cH4mhUZQAycWrSEkfWEIHMFLj1EQ2dH5sDDmFVdDG97dyy0L46LFJAFIikhoZ-VkPQvKdbjPT2ibAujlSo9GrfA
Stop at 1:55
3:18 Pause. Like Otakamiro Pt.
Big Beguely: Read p 64 bottom left.

LESSON PLAN: Waves The action of waves on the headland Erosion.

Coastal Erosion: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-oapHQoJrno
COMPLETE:
Factors determining rate of coastal (wave) erosion: wave power, rock resistance.
Waves are caused by: wind
Hydraulic action: force of water/pressure of air trapped
Abrasion/corasion: rocks and pebbles hit
Attrition: rocks and pebbles hit each other
Solution/corrosion: dissolve
Stack Formation: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2fS2Swi0q-U
Cliff Collapse: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ITv6gSUmTjc
TASK: Pictures in fig 5.13.
For each, come up with a theory re how the feature was formed.
READ: Cliif p69 blue heading p73.

HOMEWORK:
Definitions:
Swash
Backwash
Longshore bar / bar / sand bar
Disperse
Dissipate
Refract
Reflect
Current
Rip / rip current
Saltation
Fluid threshold velocity
Traction