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Bibliographic Information
Hailing from the Canadian province of Quebec, Franois Chartier
has established himself as a world-renowned sommelier- a specialist in
wine services and food and wine pairings. He is the author of many
bestselling and award-winning books which include Table avec Franois
Chartier, La Slection Chartier (an annual wine-buying guide), Taste Buds
and Molecules, among others. As the only Canadian presented with the
prestigious Grand Prix Sopexa International and the holder of Quebecs
highest honour, LOrdre National du Qubec, Chartiers achievements
are far and numerous (Chartier & Reiss, 2010).
His great work and conspicuous recognition come from over twenty years of pioneering
research into the molecular mechanisms that govern gastronomic pleasures. Through scientific
literature and collaboration with chefs and scientists, Chartier acquired gourmet knowledge of
the principle volatile compounds that give foods and wines their characteristic taste and aroma.
This led him to map out molecular relationships between two foods, as well as between a wine
and a food, to enable harmonious pairing. As a new scientific domain, molecular gastronomy is
anything but stable; it is constantly redefining the limits of our pleasure (Chartier & Reiss, 2010).
In 2009, Chartier published this insightful and innovative body of work in a non-fiction
book titled Taste Buds and Molecules. To cater to a larger audience around the world, Levi
Reiss, who introduces himself as an American-born Francophile, translated the original French
edition into English. This English version was published in 2010 by Toronto publishing company
McClelland & Stewart Ltd. The book received positive acclaim and numerous awards, including
the prestigious Worlds Best Innovative Food Book which was presented in Paris. Very few
can deny Chartiers exceptional talent as this book has, and will continue to, benefit chefs,
sommeliers, and diners alike. By opening the door to the once hidden world of aromas and
flavours, molecular gastronomy is a revolution that steers us to create new recipes and
spontaneous food and wine pairings (Chartier & Reiss, 2010). This review of Taste Buds and
Molecules will analyze the content (specifically food and wine pairings) as well as comment on
the subject matter and writing style of the book.
transform elements of taste to maximize their dining pleasure. These modern ways include
using aromas to identity and appreciate taste, pairing complementary foods, and pairing food
with wine.
flavour perception), and pairing two cold-evoking foods (which reduces sugary perception and
reinforces acidic, bitter, and salty sensations).
The principle volatile compound that is responsible for
chili peppers burning sensation is called capsaicin. Although it
does not result in true temperature increase, capsaicin does
activate heat receptors to elicit a pseudo-sensation of physical
heat in the mouth. Besides stimulating nerve endings to impart a
neurological effect on the brain, capsaicin also generates
temporary inflammation in the mouth. The combination of nerve
stimulation and mouth inflammation increases the sensitivity of
taste buds for temperature, pressure, acidity, saltiness, and carbon dioxide (found in carbonated
drinks such as beer and sparkling wine) (Chartier & Reiss, 2010). In other words, capsaicin
augments our perception of flavour by increasing the sensitivity of our taste buds. However, it is
important to note that although small doses of capsaicin can act as a flavour enhancer, higher
doses may actually have the reverse effect of reducing our sensitivity to taste and aromas. This
occurs due to a redirection of attention to the increased capsaicin levels (Chartier & Reiss, 2010).
Although capsaicin is insoluble in water, it is soluble in sugary and fatty substances as
well as in alcohol. Therefore, chili peppers can effectively be paired with sugary foods (such as
rice, pineapples, and sweet peppers) as well as fatty foods (such as butter, milk, and olive oil);
the majority of the capsaicin will dissolve (preventing effect reversal due to overdose), with
only a small amount remaining in the mouth to enhance flavour perception of the paired food.
Besides chili peppers, spices such as cinnamon, coriander, and oregano are also rich in capsaicin
albeit to a smaller extent (Chartier & Reiss, 2010).
On the opposite end of the spectrum, aromatic compounds
such as menthol in mints, gingerol in ginger, and eugenol in apples
provoke a cold (and refreshing) sensation in the mouth. These coldevoking compounds have been found to diminish the perception of
sugar, while heightening the perception of acidity, bitterness, and
saltiness. Dishes that are served very cold should therefore contain
only slivers of acidic, bitter, and salty flavours in order to avoid
overshooting the intensity of these flavours. As well, cold-evoking
compounds have a calming effect by soothing the heat of spices and lowering (cooling) the
temperature of dishes. Therefore, in order to bring out the acidic, bitter, and salty flavours, or to
arouse a soothing/calming effect, a dish composed entirely of cold-tasting ingredients is desired.
This can be achieved through complementary pairing of apples, carrots, cinnamon, ginger,
lemongrass, mint, wasabi all of which are cold-tasting foods (Chartier & Reiss, 2010).
Book Rating
From its adorning photos to its easy-to-follow tips and recipes, Taste Buds and Molecules is a
highly intriguing and practical guide for chefs, diners, and anyone in between. Despite little
scientific elucidations, Franois Chartier presents the aromatic molecules that give foods and
wines their characters, leaving readers inquisitive for more. With intellect, creativity, and
audacity, the chapters unfold to reveal exquisite (and unexpected) pairings. This a
groundbreaking book, one that stimulates the wildest culinary fantasies!
indirectly through the presentation of various aromatic molecules involved in the taste of foods
and wines (Chartier & Reiss, 2010).
And finally, we devoted one or two classes in this course to talk about the food industry,
and its attempts to modify foods to address the growing concern of high sodium and of diseases
like hypertension, while still maintaining the taste that consumers love. Possible solutions that
were brought up include the replacement of salt with salt substitutes that have similar chemical
structures, and reducing actual salt content by pairing salt with umami compounds (which can
enhance salty taste). This book is therefore relevant to the course because it touches upon similar
topics. For instance, Chartier reveals that foods with similar aromatic molecules can be
interchanged in recipes, and that the pairing of harmonious foods and wines can augment their
individual taste.
Overall Significance
On the topic of taste, French connoisseur Brillat-Savarin expressed nearly two
centuries ago: Tasteis still the sense thatprovides us with the greatest pleasure (Chartier &
Reiss, 2010). In other words, taste is a fundamental and universal human experience. It defines
how we choose food, how we think about food, and how we remember food. There is no surprise
then that as humans we always strive to enhance the tastes of what we eat, from devouring
cookbooks to adding herbs and spices to our recipes. Throughout the book, Franois Chartier
have paid tribute to this humanly sensation by suggesting food and wine pairings that will
enhance the pleasure of our taste buds. From the vividly adorned and illustrated food visuals to
the organization of text and graphics, this book shares with readers a new approach to expanding
the limits of pleasure of our taste buds. For instance, Chartier reveals that due to their
overlapping molecular compounds, a wonderful aromatic familiarity can be experienced by
tasting pineapples and strawberries one after the other (Chartier & Reiss, 2010).
This book also provides insights into the ways by which humans today can adapt taste
to maximize their dining experience, owing to innovative research like that of Chartiers. These
possible modern adaptations include using aromas to identity and appreciate taste, pairing
complementary foods, and pairing food with wine. New groundbreaking research into molecular
gastronomy has opened the door to an array of culinary possibilities, from food and wine
pairings to innovative recipe transformations. As humans, we now have the knowledge to
transform and revolutionize tastes, something that we did not have even decades ago
References
Chartier, F., & Reiss, L. (2010). Taste buds and molecules. Toronto: McClelland & Stewart.
Lesschaeve, I. (2015). Aroma and taste are perceived through our "chemical senses". Wine
Tasting Demystified. Retrieved 1 April 2016, from http://www.winetastingdemystified.com/chemical-senses.html