Professional Documents
Culture Documents
CHICKEN
SANDWICH
FTW!
HOW
BROOKLYN
GOBBLED
THE WORLD
P.61
P.98
AVOCADO +
CHOCOLATE
...WAIT, WHAT?
THE NEXT
CULT
SUPERFOOD
HOW TO
EAT LIKE
YEEZY
P.97
P.66
P.70
115
RE C I PE S
T I PS &
T R I C KS
The
Issue
HOW DID
WE ALL GET SO
FOOD
OBSESSED?
PICTUREPERFECT
MARGHERITA
AT ROBERTAS
IN NYC
Blow Up
Your Feed!
10 LAWS OF
INSTAGRAM
P.76
B O N A P P T I T VO LU M E 6 1 N U M B E R 3
THE CULTURE ISSUE
march
Quick!
Gram that pizza
while its hot!
F E AT U R E
59101
T h e C u l t u re I s s ue
Its official: The worlds gone food crazy
Chicken sandwiches are eating burgers lunchBuilding a better salad lunch is easy
The Broad City ladies give us the munchies
food journals
Ben Schott writes a Dictionary of Allergies and DietsInstagramming your food is an art
spends all its money on foodLuxury giants are fighting over crumbsEvery city has its own small-batch hooch
Celebs are opening natural wine barsThese seven people are changing the future of food
festivals are the new food festivalsThere is an actually
4 M A RC H 2 0 1 6
Music
PHOTOGRAPH BY PEDEN + MUNK. FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH. PROP STYLING BY AMY WILSON. ILLUSTRATIONS BY OSCAR BOLTON GREEN. PHOTOGRAPHED AT ROBERTAS PIZZA, NYC.
NAIL POLISH: OPI, RICH GIRLS & PO-BOYS (TOP); ESSIE, SPLASH OF GRENADINE (BOTTOM). FOR RESTAURANT DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.
P. 76
B O N A P P E T I T.C O M
march
STA RT E R S
T H E B A K I TC H E N
C O LU M N S
17
THE LOOK
31
THE PARTY
12
R.S.V.P.
Our favorite
restaurants are giving
their walls and
floors a makeover
one tile at a time.
Reader requests
andeven more
intense reader
requests.
20
CHEFS PICK
You already know
that a squeeze
of lemon elevates
almost every
dish. Just imagine
what all that
other citrus can do.
22
THE BA
CHECKLIST
Jewel-like candy
from the Rockies.
P. 63
24
LOVE LETTER
A man with
a pan obsession.
BY RUSSELL MOORE
26
THE 360
Rye whiskey is
the new bourbon.
BY BRAD THOMAS
PARSONS
39
FAST, EASY,
FRESH
Sweet and spicy
pork chops, crunchy
winter slaw, and
other recipes that
will help you forget
its still cold out.
RECIPES BY
CLAIRE SAFFITZ
44
THE NEW
HEALTHY
The best-tasting
medicine
youve ever had.
BY BELLE CUSHING
50
NAVIGATOR
Vancouver is the
underdog of the
Pacific Northwest.
BY AMIEL STANEK
107
PREP SCHOOL
The perfect fried
chicken dredge,
how to use all that
gochujang, and
other new ideas.
114
BACK OF
THE NAPKIN
Comedian Chelsea
Handler on the
art of the boozy
dinner party.
BY SARAH Z. WEXLER
IN EVERY ISSUE
10 editors letter
112 recipe index
112 sourcebook
ON THE COVER
Margherita pizza
at Robertas.
Photograph by
Peden + Munk.
Food styling by
Rebecca Jurkevich.
Prop styling by
Amy Wilson.
Illustrations by Oscar
Bolton Green. Ring
by In God We Trust.
Nail polish: Essie,
Splash of Grenadine
(top); OPI, Rich Girls
& Po-Boys (bottom).
HAVE A QUESTION ABOUT A RECIPE, OR A COMMENT? E-mail us at askba@bonappetit.com, or contact the editorial ofices: Bon Apptit, 1 World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007.
FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS AND CHANGES OF ADDRESS, call 800-765-9419 (515-243-3273 from outside the U.S.A.) or e-mail subscriptions@bonappetit.com. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.
BY SARI LEHRER
Editor in Chief
ADAM RAPOPORT
W H AT A R E
YO U R R U L E S
F O R TA K I N G
PHOTOS
AT D I N N E R ?
IF YOURE WITH
C O M PA N Y, N O E L A B O R AT E
P RE ME AL GRAMMI NG
YOURE HOLDING UP YOUR
FELLOW (HUNGRY!) DINERS.
IF DINING SOLO, FILTER
THE S * * T OU T OF THAT
GRAI N B OWL .
BRANCH OFFICES
Detroit ANNE GREEN, DIRECTOR
Los Angeles MELISSA LEE, DIRECTOR Midwest JENNA ERNSTER, DIRECTOR
Midwest PAMELA QUANDT, DIRECTOR Northwest KATHRYN SOTER, DIRECTOR
Southeast PETER ZUCKERMAN, Z-MEDIA, INC. Southwest LEWIS STAFFORD COMPANY
Hawaii LOREN MALENCHEK, MALENCHEK & ASSOCIATES Mexico ALCHEMIA
Artistic Director
ANNA WINTOUR
JR.
8 M A RC H 2 0 1 6
editors letter
FOLLOW ADAM
ON TWITTER,
INSTAGRAM, AND
SNAPCHAT AT
@RAPO4
Adam getting
schooled
by musicianturned-foodwriter Questlove
at a BA party
ADAM RAPOPORT
EDITOR IN CHIEF
WA I T, W H E N D I D
F O O D G E T S O C O O L?
r. s.v.p.
Want us to get a restaurant recipe for you?
E-mail us at rsvp@bonappetit.com*
Not everything is
black and whitelike
the photos of these
dishes in full-color
glory at bonappetit
.com/rsvp
GOCHUJANG-BRAISED
CHICKEN AND CRISPY RICE
4 SERVINGS Now that you have an entire
container of gochujang, its time to
learn more ways to use it on page 107.
1 small onion, finely chopped
8 garlic cloves, finely grated
1 2" piece ginger, peeled,
finely grated
cup gochujang (Korean hot
pepper paste)
cup soy sauce
2 Tbsp. sugar
1 Tbsp. mirin
1 Tbsp. toasted sesame oil
1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper,
plus more
3 cups cooked short-grain rice
1 tsp. ground cumin
tsp. garlic powder
Meet: AMELIA RAMPE , test kitchen assistant Cooking for: Ten years
Before BA: Cooked at ABC Kitchen and Nougatine at Jean-Georges
A: I do a lot of dishes as test kitchen assistant. I also cross-test recipes
and make sure everything is in its place. A food editor needs a specific
ingredient or tool? I know where it is. It may not be the most glamorous
job, but it comes with a pretty good view from our offices at 1 World Trade
Center. Plus, I can tell my teenage daughter to do the dishes at home.
* S U B M I SS I O N S B EC O M E T H E P RO P E RT Y O F B O N A P P T I T .
Re:
Desperation
We get lots of
requests in the
R.S.V.P. in-box, but
some e-mails take
Please help! to
the next level. Here,
ten needy subject
lines that demanded
our attention.
Scone crisis!
ILLUSTRATIONS: LARRY JOST (CHICKEN AND RICE, LATTE); CLAIRE MCCRACKEN (PORTRAIT, MUG, ENVELOPE).
FOR RESTAURANT DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.
or cofee grinder
Using spice mill or cofee grinder,
coarsely grind rice and transfer to a 2-qt.
airtight container. Coarsely grind cofee
beans and place in same container
as rice. Add almonds, cinnamon stick,
and 4 cups water. Cover and let soak
in refrigerator overnight.
Bring sugar and cup water to a
boil in a small saucepan, swirling pan
occasionally to dissolve sugar, about
3 minutes. Transfer simple syrup to
a heatproof container; cover and chill
until cool, at least 30 minutes.
Transfer rice mixture to a blender
and blend until very smooth. Strain
through a fine-mesh sieve into a medium
bowl, pressing on solids to extract
as much liquid as possible. Sweeten latte
to taste with simple syrup and add salt.
Serve over ice.
DO AHEAD: Latte can be made 3 days
ahead. Cover and chill.
Pregnant and
a pancake
predicament
Maybe I am
being greedy?
A truly
impossible
challenge
The arepa
that changed
my life
Chocolate chip
cookies worth
befriending your
enemies for
I mean
I left my heart in
Jackson Hole
M A RC H 2 0 1 6 1 3
W H E R E G R E AT TA S T E B E G I N S
Are you
getting the urge
to renovate? Find
buying info for the
tiles on this page
in Sourcebook,
page 112.
Were
Floored
by all the
beautiful tile
were spotting at
restaurants. Read
our tips for taking
the trend home
by
SARI LEHRER
photographs by
TED CAVANAUGH
M A RC H 2 0 1 6 1 7
The Look
Penny
Tile
The LBD of tile:
simple, classic,
and never goes
out of style. The
quintessential
look for brasseries,
bistros, and oyster
bars, these ittybitty rounds are
being used on
floors in basic
patterns or to spell
out a restaurants
name (as at Kindred
in Davidson, NC).
BEST FOR
The affordable
tile is great for
kitchen floors at
home, says Wendy
Haworth, the
designer behind
L.A.s Gracias
Madre. Just make
sure to choose
a darker grout
penny tiles
numerous edges
can stain easily.
S P OT T E D AT
Le Sel, Nashville;
Denver Union
Station, Denver
BUY IT
1
Patterned
Tile
Marrakech.
Mexico City. Havana.
Patterned tile is the
design equivalent of
landing somewhere
exotic. From sharp,
modern graphics to
traditional Moroccan,
patterns grab the
eye, creating a focal
point for a room.
PRO TIP
Use judiciously!
Though bravado
need not be limited
to commercial
use, at home youre
best off laying this
tile on a patio or in
a small space like
an entryway for
a jewel-box effect.
Have fun with the
pattern, but youd
be wise to think of
it like a tattoo: You
should still want
to look at it a year
from now. Aim
for timeless and
unplaceable,
says Dolores Suarez
of New Yorks
Dekar Design.
1 8 M A RC H 2 0 1 6
At Gracias Madre in
L.A., tiles sourced from
Oaxaca line the bar.
S P OT T E D AT
Juniper, Austin;
Ironside Fish &
Oyster, San Diego
BUY IT
Cl carries both
Moroccan and
modern. cletile.com
3
Subway
2.0
With all due
respect to Balthazars
Keith McNally, theres
more than one way
to lay a subway tile.
Bold colors, tweaked
dimensions, and fresh
layouts are redefining
this favorite. At San
Franciscos Liholiho
Yacht Club, its done
big and bright with
canary-yellow 4x4s;
Chicagos Swift &
Sons lays sagegreen tiles vertically;
and at Farmshop
in Larkspur, CA,
there are entire walls
of textured tiles in
a range of greens.
GO FOR A SPIN
Hand-glazed
Heath tiles
stretch to the
ceiling for a
dramatic look
at Farmshop
in Larkspur, CA.
For advice
from the experts
at Heath Ceramics
(hint: The grout
matters too), go
to bonappetit
.com/tile.
PHOTOGRAPHS: ERIC WOLFINGER (GRACIAS MADRE); MOSES AIPA (LIHOLIHO); MARIKO REED, COURTESY COMMUNE DESIGN (FARMSHOP)
Chef s Pick
6
1
Bright Spots
Todays chefs are
doing way more than
adding a squeeze of
lemon to food. Take
a peek at the modern
chefs acid arsenal
Pomelo
Blood Orange
Satsuma
Sour Orange
Kumquats
Meyer Lemon
Yuzu
Think grapefruit
with less
bitterness and
more rind. We
rip it apart cell by
cell, says Beverly
Kim of Chicagos
Parachute. It
gives nice texture
to fish dishes.
(You can just eat
it in segments.)
Molly Mitchell
of Roses Fine
Food in Detroit
candies the
ruby-hued fruit
(with hints of
berry flavor),
great for chopping
up and serving
atop breakfast,
like on Roses
French toast.
Alon Shaya
of New Orleans
Shaya adds
the super-sweet
juice to butternut
squash thats
been sauted
with black-garlic
butter. It cuts
through the
richness of the
butter, he says.
It has the
fruitiness of an
orange but the
acidity of a lime,
says Jose Salazar
of the puckerinducing citrus.
At Cincinnatis
Salazar, he
squeezes it over
scallops; at home it
goes in margaritas.
The team at
Revival Market
makes marmalade
using the
grape-size
kumquats grown
by its Houston
neighbors.
Chef Ryan Pera
then uses it
to fill kolache,
a Czech pastry.
Ori Menashe
of Bestia in
L.A. preserves
Meyer lemons
thin-skinned
varieties with
some of oranges
sweetness
then chops
them up and
adds them to
salsa verde.
2 0 M A RC H 2 0 1 6
by MERYL ROTHSTEIN
At l ant i c ke l p
Quick-cooking fronds
Try it: added to
bean cooking liquid
C
H
E
C
K
L
I
S
T
EGGSENTIAL!
Just when we
thought there were
no new ways to
cook an egg, along
came these adorable
porcelain vessels
that yield soft-boiled
meals in a cup.
BAs food director,
Carla Lalli Music,
loves the Swedish
ggcddlers
($21; aggcoddler.com)
so much she insisted
we share her recipe:
What to eat,
drink, and
coddle this
month
by
JULIA
KRAMER
BA MOVIE
N I G H T: C I T Y O F
GOLD, OUT
THIS MONTH
I dont know
any Korean that
knows more about
Korean food than
Jonathan Gold.
David C hang,
in the documentary
a b o u t t h e P u l i t ze r
P r i ze w i nni ng
re s t aurant cr i t i c
SHOTS OF
B L A C K D E AT H ,
A N YO N E ?
Better known
for vodka and,
um, mineral water,
Iceland has an
unoficial national
spirit thats gaining
distribution here:
Brennivn. Despite its
foreboding nickname,
Black Death,
the caraway-infused
beverage of Bjrks
homeland tastes like
a gentler aquavit.
Try it in a Bloody
Mary. brennivin.com
for stores
2 2 M A RC H 2 0 1 6
Zak
the Baker
S AY YO U H AV E O N E N I G H T I N M I A M I
5 p.m. Wrap up your visit to the stunning Prez Art Museum with a spritz (and a view) at Verde. 7 p.m.
Dinner at Alter, for a spin on the local catch in an art gallerylike space. 10 p.m. Did someone say cocktails in
gold pineapple glasses? Thats why youre ending with a drinkand if youre lucky, a bedat Ian Schragers
Miami Beach Edition. The morning after: Brave the toast line at Zak the Baker (FYIclosed Saturdays).
Coddled Egg
Place 2 tsp. heavy
cream and a big
pinch each of finely
chopped cooked
ham and chives in
a buttered coddler;
season with salt
and pepper. Add
1 large egg. Top with
2 tsp. heavy cream
and more ham and
chives; season.
Seal; cook 8 minutes
in simmering water.
Serve with buttered
toast. 1 serving
NAIL-BITER
Child-friendly Kid
Licks nail polish
($14; kidlicks.com)
is marketed as
organic, edible,
and made from
food, so...we ate
it. Tasting notes:
Sour Carrot
Tart with faint
whifs of compost
Beet Red
Pleasantly sweet
(and beautifully
plum-colored)
Barley
Grass Green
Grainy mouthfeel,
with the aroma
of a fermenting
juice bar
PHOTOGRAPHS: ALEX LAU (SEAWEED, GGCDDLER, KID LICKS); TED CAVANAUGH (BRENNIVN, CODDLED EGGS);
PATRICK CHIN (ZAK THE BAKER). FOR MORE DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.
T
H
E
A breakfast
as cute as it
is delicious
Love Letter
Iron Man
For Camino
chef Russell
Moore, a friends
flea-market find
turned into a
lifelong love afair
with vintage
cast-iron pans
O N E DAY AT C H E Z PA N I S S E ,
To really
cook like Moore,
try out the castiron recipes
in his cookbook
This Is Camino.
24 M A RC H 2 0 1 6
P H OTO G R A P H B Y T E D C AVA N AU G H
Want
your own?
The 360
DECODE THE LABEL
Proof
So-called
straight
rye has been
aged at least
two years,
with no added
flavor, color,
or additional
spirit.
OG Distiller
Sam Adams may
get the attention
as Americas
patriot brewer,
but George
Washington
distilled rye at
Mount Vernon.
When he died
in 1799, he was
producing 11,000
gallons a year,
making him
Americas largest
whiskey distiller.
S O YO U WA N T TO C A L L YO U R S E L F A N A M E R I C A N RY E . . .
Unlike bourbon, rye whiskey can be made outside of the United States.
To be considered an American rye, the mash bill (blend of grains) must contain
no less than 51 percent rye, making it more peppery and not as sweet as bourbon,
which must be made from 51 percent corn.
Rye must be
aged in new
oak barrels,
but there are
no rules about
how long. If the
bottle doesnt
tell you how old
it is, that means
its been aged at
least four years.
USE IT IN A
C O C K TA I L
Small-
batch,
Double the
handmade,
alcohol by
craft
volume and
youll get the
Often just
proofthe
marketing,
strength of
these words
the alcohol
arent regulated,
at bottling.
rendering them
American rye
meaningless.
must be at least Theyre the all80 proof and
natural of the
at most 160.
booze world.
The Rattlesnake
Vigorously shake 1 large
egg white,* 2 oz. rye
whiskey, 1 oz. lemon
juice, and oz. simple
syrup in a cocktail
shaker until just frothy.
Fill shaker with ice; shake
until outside is frosty,
about 20 seconds. Strain
through a fine-mesh
sieve into a frozen coupe
glass rinsed with Pernod.
BOTTLE SERVICE
ASK A BARTENDER
26 M A RC H 2 0 1 6
P H OTO G R A P H S B Y T E D C AVA N AU G H
FOOD STYLING BY ALI NARDI. PROP STYLING BY MARTIN BOURNE. ILLUSTRATIONS BY CLAIRE MCCRACKEN. FOR MORE DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.
*RAW EGG IS NOT RECOMMENDED FOR THE ELDERLY, PREGNANT WOMEN, CHILDREN UNDER 4, AND PEOPLE WITH WEAKENED IMMUNE SYSTEMS.
Age
statement
BA
> R EC I P E S, T I P S, A N D M E N U I D E AS F RO M O U R E X P E RTS
Believe it:
Easter is
in March
t his ye a r!
T H E PA R T Y
easter,
italian
style
R EC I P E S BY R I TA S O D I A N D J O DY W I L L I A M S P H O T O G R A P H S B Y E V A K O L E N K O
M A RC H 2 0 1 6 3 1
THE
PA R T Y
> easter
sunday
These artichokes
take a little
effort. Learn
how to trim
them in Prep
School, page 111.
THE PLAN
I N O R D E R TO P U L L O F F T H I S
A M B I T I O U S M E N U,
Y O U H AV E T O S T R AT E G I Z E
UP TO THREE
DAYS AHEAD
Make the chocolate
semifreddo
and freeze. Cook
the cannellini
beans; let cool
in liquid, then
cover and chill.
1 DAY AHEAD
Stuff and tie
the lamb breast.
Braise artichokes;
let cool and chill.
Prepare all the
raw vegetables;
store in
resealable plastic
bags and chill.
THE MORNING OF
Braise the lamb
breast and make
the potatoes.
JUST BEFORE
GUESTS ARRIVE
Whip the
cream for the
semifreddo,
saut spinach
with beans,
muddle the
cocktail base,
and put out the
raw vegetable
platter. Reheat
lamb, potatoes,
and artichokes.
Claire Saffitz
THE
PA R T Y
> easter
sunday
THE DRINK
S PA R K L I N G L E M O N C O C K TA I L
> Muddle 2 thinly sliced Meyer or regular
lemons, 8 sugar cubes, and 1 tsp.
Angostura bitters in a large measuring
glass until lemons are softened and sugar
is crushed. Divide among 8 wine glasses;
slowly pour in chilled dry Prosecco
or other sparkling wine to fill glasses.
ADD SOME
S PA R K L E
These wines
are affordable
enough to use
in this drink
and delicious
on their own:
Humble
be ans and
potatoes
become star
side dishes.
B U Y E RS
GUIDE:
LAMB BREAST
FOOD STYLING BY SUSIE THEODOROU. PROP STYLING BY KALEN KAMINKSI. ILLUSTRATIONS BY JOE WILSON.
FOR MORE DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.
2
2
1
2
4
1
6
6
4
1
1
4
for braising. It
is not, however,
something you
can expect to find
shrink-wrapped at
the grocery store.
Order it in advance
from your butcher,
THE
PA R T Y
> easter
sunday
thermometer
Combine chocolate, vanilla, and tsp.
salt in a medium heatproof bowl.
Heat 1 cups cream in a small
saucepan over medium until barely
simmering. Pour hot cream over
chocolate mixture and let sit until
chocolate is melted, about 5 minutes.
Whisk chocolate mixture until
combined and smooth. Chill, stirring
occasionally, until cold, about 1 hour.
3 6 M A RC H 20 1 6
GET THE
VIBE:
MODERN
E AST E R
k
fast, easy,
fresh
When theres not a glimmer
of spring produce, make
the best of what youve got
by which we mean a crunchy
slaw, citrusy cake, and more
Twice Is
Nicer
by C l a i re S a f f i t z
The trick to
crispy, creamy,
never cloying sweet
potatoes? Roast,
tear, and roast
again. To serve
4, poke holes all
over 3 medium
sweet potatoes;
wrap each in foil.
Roast on a foil-lined
rimmed baking
sheet in a 350
oven until tender,
6070 minutes.
Unwrap and let cool
slightly. Increase
oven temperature
to 450. Combine
1 thinly sliced
Fresno chile, cup
honey, and 4 Tbsp.
unsalted butter
in a small saucepan;
season with salt.
Bring to a simmer
over low heat,
stirring to combine.
Remove from heat
and stir in 2 Tbsp.
apple cider vinegar.
Smash potatoes
with your palm, then
tear into irregular
bite-size pieces.
Toss in a large bowl
with half of hot
honey, leaving chile
behind; season with
salt. Arrange pieces,
skin side down, on
an unlined rimmed
baking sheet and
roast until browned
and crisp around
edges, 2025
minutes. Drizzle
with remaining hot
honey with chile.
TWICEROASTED
SWEET
POTATOES
WITH HOT
HONEY
M A RC H 2 0 1 6 3 9
FA S T, E A S Y,
FRESH
3
2
2
2
M O R E WAY S T O
USEHOISIN
This homemade
hoisin comes
together with just
a few pantry
staples and tastes
surprisingly like the
Spoon over
pork chops.
Dress up a
bowl of rice.
3 Drizzle over
steamed vegetables
like bok choy,
asparagus, or
winter squash.
2 Serve alongside
roast chicken.
Turn simple
ste amed
veg into a
fun side.
DONT
U N D E R E S T I M AT E
D A I KO N
> Breakfast radishes
get all the
attention. What
about the hearty
daikon? We love
its peppery-butnot-too-peppery
flavor and snappybut-not-too-snappy
textureplus its
easier to shave
into salads than
its smaller cousins.
Slaw Power
Hope you like your salads bracing
because we piled all the crunchy
veg we could find into this bright,
fresh side dish
No Asian
pe ar ? Sub
in a green
apple.
M A RC H 2 0 1 6 41
1
2
1
1
2
4 2 M A RC H 2 0 1 6
i s a ve g e t a b l e
o il b a sed b a tter
instead. Not only
do you always have
oil around, but it
makes baked goods
(ahem, like this loaf
cake) super moist.
FOOD STYLING BY SUE LI. PROP STYLING BY ELIZABETH JAIME. ILLUSTRATIONS BY JOE WILSON.
FA S T, E A S Y,
FRESH
THE NEW
H E A LT H Y
big bowl of
goodness
When Cold-Eeze cant cut it,
the people of Providence, RI,
turn to an unprovenbut
inarguably deliciouscure:
a memorable Cambodian soup
by B el l e C u s h in g
This shrimpand-noodle
number is
the real soup
for the soul.
THE NEW
H E A LT H Y
> medicine
soup
6
6
4
3
2
2
1
3
5
2
1
12
1
whole cloves
green cardamom pods
star anise pods
dried chiles de rbol
3" cinnamon sticks
tsp. black peppercorns
bunch cilantro
medium shallots, halved
through root ends
garlic cloves, smashed
6" pieces lemongrass, tough
outer layer removed,
lightly smashed
4" piece ginger, peeled,
sliced " thick
cups low-sodium chicken broth
Tbsp. fish sauce
Kosher salt; freshly ground pepper
PASTE
1
1
1
1
1
1
2
cup cashews
medium shallot, chopped
Fresno chile, chopped
3" piece lemongrass, tough outer
layer removed, finely chopped
1" piece ginger, peeled,
finely chopped
Tbsp. dark brown sugar
Tbsp. shrimp paste with bean oil
Tbsp. vegetable oil
ASSE M B LY
4
1
8
4
4 6 M A RC H 2 0 1 6
RECIPE BY LILY FREEDMAN. FOOD STYLING BY SUE LI. PROP STYLING BY ELIZABETH JAIME. FOR RESTAURANT DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.
Aromatic Shrimp
and Noodle Medicine Soup
> C I T Y G U I D E / va n c o u ve r
navigator
FOR THE
ADDRESSES
OF THE
S P OTS I N T H I S
S T O R Y, S E E
SOURCEBOOK
O N PA G E 1 1 2 .
Alexandra
Glass of
The Birds
& the Beets
starts the
day right.
north by northwest
Seattles cool. Portlands got indie cred. But right
now, Vancouver tops our best-of-the-West list
Nothing represents the fantasies
of food-obsessed Americans quite like
the Pacific Northwest. Its an unspoiled
wonderland where the fish is always fresh, the
produce pedigreed, and the people (somewhat
eerily) enthusiastic. But our fascination with
Portland and Seattle obscures a thrilling truth:
The grass is even greener (and fresher, and
tastier, and cheaper) on the other side of the
C ontinued on page 54
5 0 M A RC H 2 0 1 6
N AV I G AT O R
> va n c o u ve r
DO
Rent a bike and take a spin around picturesque Stanley Park. Itll be a bit
of a workoutthat is, if you can resist the urge to get of your bike every
few feet to snap photos of the glimmering bay and soaring mountains.
Eastern
Promises
LABAT TOIR
A seat at the spotlit
bar is the move at
this swanky Frenchinflected spot.
Snag one of their
next-level cocktails
(the herbaceous
golden-hour light.
Whats not to like?
Pro tip: Arrive at least
a half hour before
this no-reservations
restaurant opens
to snag a table.
Theres always a line.
ALIBI ROOM
This decade-old
tavern is the place to
be for specialty suds
in Vancouver. The
super-knowledgeable
staf is more than
happy to guide you
through the 50
local and imported
drafts, but any of
the inventive oddball
brews from the
hometown heroes at
Brassneck Brewery
are a must-order.
TA S T E
THE TERROIR
3
SEAFOOD
S A N S G U I LT
Restaurants all
over the city proudly
post the Vancouver
Aquariums Ocean
Wise logo on menus
to denote sustainable
(and delicious)
seafood options.
Here are a few of
our favorites.
54 M A RC H 2 0 1 6
LINGCOD
SABLEFISH
OY S T E R S
DUNGENESS CRAB
S TAY
Insane water and mountain views, free (BMW!) bike use, and
deep soaking tubs make the Fairmont Pacific Rimopened
in time for the 2010 Winter Olympicsworth the splurge.
5
ISLAND LIFE
Richmond
Riches
D I N E ST Y
DUMPLING HOUSE
O T R AY N O O D L E
If Granville
Islandthe
shopping district
a short walk from
downtown
Vancouverseems
like a tourist trap,
youre not doing
it right. Its Railspur
District is where
youre going to find
locally brewed
sake from Artisan
SakeMaker,
flights of distilledon-site spirits at
Liberty Distillery,
and a host of
boutiques hawking
handicrafts. And
dont leave
without slurping
a half-dozen
Royal Miyagis at
unassuming Tonys
Fish & Oyster
Cafeas cold and
fresh as youll find
anywhere in town.
B E A U C O U P B A K E R Y & C A F may be
home to Vancouvers best croissant
(we dont disagree), but its the crispy cardamom
kouign-amann, peanut-butter sandwich cookies,
and expertly pulled shots of 49th Parallel Cofee
Roasters espresso that could keep us here all day.
Y E S , Y O U L L H AV E F I S H A N D C H I P S
L I D O R E STAU R A N T
Warm, soothing
homemade soy milk
is the only thing
you need after a
marathon of eating.
(Okay, order a silky
tofu pudding, too.)
The handwritten
menu at Dock Lunch.
8
H O M E AWAY
FROM HOME
A midday meal
at American-born
Elizabeth Bryans
Dock Lunch, the
impossibly homey
living room-
Jackie Kai
Ellis,
Beaucoup
Bakerys
owner and
pastry chef.
turned-caf in
the Mount Pleasant
neighborhood,
may quietly be the
toughest get in the
city. The handful
of satisfying soulful
plates on ofer each
daythink crunchy,
juicy fried chicken,
ultraflaky biscuits,
and strawberry
cobbleroften sell
out faster than
she can post them
to her Instagram.
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
If youre
like us, you take
pictures of everything
you eat. Which is why
we shot all of the original
photography on the
following pages
with an iPhone.
Seriously.
59
A RECENT
HISTORY
OF THE FRIED
CHICKEN
SANDWICH
(FCS)
WHICH
CAME FIRST?
Atlanta restaurateur
S. Truett Cathy puts
breaded chicken breasts
on hamburger buns
andat least according
to Chick-fil-A legend
invents the modern
FCS.
1960s
PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX LAU. FOOD STYLING BY SUE LI. ILLUSTRATIONS BY OSCAR BOLTON GREEN.
RING (THUMB) BY VRAI & ORO. NAIL POLISH BY DOLCE & GABBANA, AQUA 720.
FOR RESTAURANT DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.
Dredge it
rig h t! Se e
Prep School,
p ag e 1 07.
N O.
McDonalds
introduces the
McChicken sandwich
andit fails miserably.
Eight years later, it
will be resurrected.
1980
Sandwich
of the Year
2005
Blue-wigged
Aussie Alison
Barakat creates an
FCS topped with
vinegary coleslaw for
Bakesale Betty in
Oakland, CA.
The Commodore
introduces Brooklyn
to the Hot Breast,
its addictively spicy
sandwich take on
Nashvilles venerable
hot chicken.
APRIL 2010
B Y M I C H A E L Y. P A R K
RECIPE BY CL AIRE SAFFITZ
1
1
1
2
ASS EMB LY
C H ICK EN
T hi s s an dw ic h is
engineered for maximum
i mpa ct . Ea ch e le me nt
i s awe s o m e , b u t i t s t h e
way they come together
that puts it over the top.
M mmm m, ye a h.
MAKES 4
thermometer
Tbsp. paprika
tsp. cayenne pepper
Tbsp. kosher salt, plus more
large egg, beaten to blend
cup buttermilk
Tbsp. bourbon (optional)
Tbsp. hot sauce (such as Franks);
plus more for serving (optional)
Peanut or vegetable oil
(for frying; about 8 cups)
4 soft seeded hamburger buns
3 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted
Bread-and-butter pickles (for
serving), plus 1 Tbsp. brine
4 cups thinly sliced iceberg lettuce
Freshly ground black pepper
1
2
2
1
1
2
3
and 2 Tbsp. salt in a medium bowl.
Whisk egg, buttermilk, bourbon (if using),
and 3 Tbsp. hot sauce in another medium
bowl. Working with 1 piece at a time,
dredge chicken in flour mixture, turning to
coat and packing into crevices. Shake to
remove excess; return to rack. Pour 3 Tbsp.
buttermilk mixture into flour mixture and
work in with your fingers. Dip chicken into
remaining buttermilk mixture, allow excess
to drip of, then pack moistened flour
mixture firmly onto chicken. Gently shake
of excess; return to rack. Chill at least
30 minutes and up to 12 hours.
Pour oil into a large heavy pot fitted with
thermometer to come halfway up sides.
Heat over medium-high until thermometer
registers 350. Working in 2 batches, fry
chicken, turning often and adjusting heat
to maintain temperature, until deep golden
brown, 58 minutes per batch. Transfer to
a wire rack set over paper towels to drain.
Heat a dry large skillet, preferably cast
iron, over medium. Brush cut sides of buns
with butter and, working in batches, cook,
cut side down, until deep golden brown,
about 2 minutes per batch.
Mix 1 Tbsp. pickle brine into 2 Tbsp.
seasoned mayonnaise in a medium bowl.
Add lettuce, season with salt and pepper,
and toss to coat. Spread some seasoned
mayonnaise over cut sides of buns. Build
sandwiches with pickles, fried chicken,
slaw, and more hot sauce, if desired.
2011
Pandemonium
breaks out over
Shake Shacks
limited-edition FCS.
Six months later,
it debuts on menus
nationwide.
J U LY 7, 2 0 1 5
David Chang
opens Fuku in his
original Momofuku
Noodle Bar location as
the first in a planned
FCS empire.
J U N E 1 0, 2 0 1 5
Leghornan
aspiring FCS chain
opens its first location
in Chicago, promising
to donate 2% of its
revenue to gay rights
organizations.
2014
N O.
2
Soggy Salad
Is a Shameful
Thing
Quaneesha
Allen prepping
cauliflower
in an NYC
outpost.
PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX LAU. ILLUSTRATIONS BY OSCAR BOLTON GREEN. FOR DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.
SALAD
HACKS
62
When it comes to
the seven green
and grain bases that
Sweetgreen ofers,
dont be basicmix a
few for varied flavor
or texture, like, say,
peppery arugula and
nutty wild rice.
Dont. Forget.
The. Crunchies.
Toasted nuts, spicy
sunflower seeds,
and tortilla chips
come at the end,
and most folks
foolishly skip em
without noticing.
Soggy salad is
a shameful thing.
If youre not eating
your lunch right
away, either (a) start
with sturdy romaine
or kale, or (b) order
your dressing
on the side.
Sweetgreen sources
bread from local
bakeries for each
location. It also
stocks avocados.
So youre on your
way to an off-menu
avocado toast.
Mic, dropped.
Wana
Edibles
Jewels
NectarBee
Raspberry
Fruit Rings
In a legal state
and want to DIY?
Get our butter
recipefor baking
or drizzling over
popcorn at
bonappetit.com
/thghee
Dude, These
Gummi
Bears Taste
Amaaazing
LAUGH ALL YOU WANT, but for
a lot of people, buying pot-laced
edibles has become as pedestrian
as picking up a bottle of vino.
Marijuanawhile still a federally
controlled substance is
medically available in almost
half the country, sold for
recreational use in four states
(Alaska, Colorado, Oregon, and
Washington), and seven more
states are bringing the issue to
a vote this year. Some financial
analysts project annual revenues
to reach $35 billion by 2020
about $3 billion more than
Americans spend on coffee.
A chunk of that is due, of course,
to packaged pot treats; last year
there were 4.8 million purchases
in Colorado alone. Edibles are
portable, dont carry the risks
or smells associated with
smoking, and are regulated
and labeled so at least you know
exactly what youre ingesting.
If you stroll into any retail
dispensary, youll find gummies,
infused chocolates, herbed nuts,
wacky lemonade, and all manner
of bite-size cookies and crackers.
They look adorable! Some taste
pretty good! Here, a sampling of
the far-out candies sold in Denver.
CARLA LALLI MUSIC
# YO LO
Wana
Edibles Sour
Gummies
Careful with
N O.
Ilana
Gl azer
As their Comedy
Cen tra l sh ow
begins it s third
season, belove d
Broad City st o n e r s
Il a n a a n d A b b i
skip the gummies
(bu t l eave ro om
f o r t h e m u n c h i e s)
INTERVIEW BY PETER MARTIN
64
BROAD CITY
I used to not be
into the fancy ones.
I used to eat goo
balls all the time.
Goo balls?
AJ: From when
I used to go to a lot of
jam-band concerts.
to feel. It freaks me
out. You can get real
wacky on edibles.
Its easy to not
realize how much
youve eaten until
it kicks in, and then
youre in trouble.
IG: Im surprised
when people
who dont usually
smoke weed are
into edibles.
I cant believe that.
Those
Ab b i
Jacobson
Cereal when
high is always a
great option.
I dont even have
cereal for that
reason.
Maybe because
it cuts out the
smoking part?
IG: Yeah, people think,
Well, I eat all the time,
so this is a comfortable
conduit for me to get
high. But [when they
try edibles for the
first time] theyre like,
Its too crazy, and
then they dont want
to get high again.
It makes me sad.
I want to use
this platform.
What about the
best food for
the munchies?
IG: Depends where
youre going. Like,
if you want to King
Louis gorge yourself
and die, those coffee-
cake Entenmanns
doughnuts.
AJ: A box of them?
IG: A box of them.
Im talking ideal,
I live in heaven,
and my stomach
is bottomless.
You can get through
the whole box?
AJ: I would need
milk, I think.
IG: Thats more of
a dream. I usually
#WINNING
I S
66 M A RC H 2 0 1 6
T H E
N E W
Q U I N O A
Q U I N O A
GUTTER
N O.
Aromatic
Wilted
Greens with
Coconut Milk
P. 68
Vaguely
healthy and
totally delicious,
coconut is the
latest ingredient
we cant get
enough ofin any
of its countless
forms. Heres how
were eating it all
day, every day
WA I T, T H E R ES
A S H O RTAG E ?
Coconut
Chicken
Curry with
Turmeric and
Lemongrass
P. 68
JULIA BAINBRIDGE
67
2
1
4
1
1
1
1
4
4
1
4
2
1
1
lemongrass stalks
large shallot, chopped
garlic cloves
2" piece ginger, peeled,
thinly sliced
tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
tsp. ground turmeric
Tbsp. vegetable oil
chicken legs, drumsticks
and thighs separated
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
kafir lime leaves (optional)
3" cinnamon stick
cardamom pods, cracked
star anise pods
15-oz. can unsweetened
coconut milk
tsp. coconut sugar or
light brown sugar
cup unsweetened shredded
coconut
Chopped cilantro and chives
(for serving)
2
4
2
1
1
1
1
1
Coconut-Date Power
Breakfast Bars
8 SERVINGS Five different types of
coconut go into our quintuple-threat
breakfast (or snack) bars. Nutrient-dense
and sweet enough to satisfy even the
youngest members of your household.
FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH. PROP STYLING BY KALEN KAMINSKI. ILLUSTRATIONS BY OSCAR BOLTON GREEN.
GO NUTS
Toss vegetables in
it before sauting
or roasting. Itll add
a clean, coconut-y
aroma (but not
overpowering lavor).
COCONUT MILK
CoconutDate Power
Breakfast
Bars
The alt-sugar
reportedly has a lower
glycemic index
than regular sugar,
plus a molasses-like
edge. Use it in
oatmeal or cofee.
CHRIS MOROCCO
U P N E XT
NO.
OUI!
R I C K ROSS
C H A M PAG N E TAST E S
SAYS
ROS
150+
TIMES
than anyone
else in 2015.
2015
2010
1995
DRAKE
RHYMED
MORE
ABOUT
FOOD
2000
YES!
2005
in his songs.
(No wonder his
nickname is
Ricky Rozay.)
In particular,
hes fond of
Luc Belaire Ros.
D O M V S . C R I S TA L V S . K R U G
Restaurants
Jay Z has
referenced:
Raos
Four Seasons
Restaurant
Shark Bar
Sushi restaurant
McDonalds
Mercer Kitchen
Mr. Chow
Tao
In a French-ass
restaurant /
Hurry up
with my damn
croissants
KANYE WEST,
I AM A GOD
PAT R N
VS.
CROC
Chick-fil-A
Roscoes
McDonalds
Taco Bell
Pizza Hut
2015
2010
2005
2000
Most beloved
fast food
C H E E S E VS. D O U G H VS. C H E D DA
VS.
BACA R D I
VS.
GREY GOOSE
Wheres Fargo?
(Timbaland,
Timothy Where
You Been)
JAY Z,
MAYBACH MUSIC II
(THE LOST VERSE)
YUM!
HERB
VS.
A S PA R A G U S
VS.
B L U E B E R RY Y U M
2015
2010
Healthy-sounding
pot slang is rising
as herb falls.
2005
Let the
Cristal flow
(Ganghis Khan,
Dumbfoundead)
UP IN
SMOKE
1995
My car go
(Notorious B.I.G.,
Hypnotize)
Six deuce
every time,
I never had
the Heinz /
Fifty-seven
cant catch up
to mines
2000
Lines
rhymed with
escargot:
Cocktails
weve learned to
make (inspired
by Kendrick
Lamars
The Recipe):
RIHANNA
SAYS
CAKE
142
TIMES
in Birthday
Cake (Remix)
with Chris Brown.
151 rum,
pineapple
juice, Malibu
Gin and juice
Malibu and
Grey Goose
Olde English
and orange juice
Lemonade,
Croc, and
Welchs
Grape Juice
Bacardi Dark,
Bacardi Light,
triple sec,
grenadine,
pineapple juice
in a water bottle
PHOTOGRAPHS: GEORGE PIMENTEL/WIREIMAGE (DRAKE); ILYA S. SAVENOK/GETTY IMAGES (RICK ROSS); DOMINIQUE CHARRIAU/WIREIMAGE
(KANYE WEST); JB LACROIX/GETTY IMAGES (RIHANNA); MICHAEL STEWART/WIREIMAGE (JAY Z). ILLUSTRATIONS BY OSCAR BOLTON GREEN.
2015
2010
VS.
2005
1995
H E N N E S SY
2000
1995
CAV I A R P E A K E D I N 1 99 5. N OW I TS A B O U T LO B ST E R .
CHOCOL ATE
Heather Johnston
Pediatrician to
Veruca Chocolates
T his bra nd
be g a n
with just
$3 ,0 0 0. Now,
production
t ops 40 0,0 0 0
b ot t l e s a
month.
I Quit My
Boring Job
So I Could
Make...
N O.
7
KOMBUCHA
COFFEE
INTERVIEWS BY CHRISTINA CHAEY. PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX LAU. ILLUSTRATIONS BY OSCAR BOLTON GREEN.
Grady Laird
Publishing to
Gradys Cold Brew
I worked at GQ in 2010,
and I took in batches
for my coworkers. I got
calls from editors at
Wired and Vogue who
wanted some too. The
day I quit was the day
GQ published a blog post
about me. I was like,
Finally! I can leave.
KIMCHI
Kheedim Oh
DJ to Mama Os
Premium Kimchi
In 2010, my band
wanted to move to L.A.
Instead, I bought a
bodega in Queens and
turned the stockroom
into my factory. I was
there seven days a
weekme and the
sandwich guy. Nowadays,
food companies start
with, like, funding.
#HUMBLEBRAG
Daina
Slekys Trout
Pharmaceuticals
to Health-Ade
Kombucha
When I
started in
pharmaceuticals,
I wanted to
be CEO. But it
felt like it would
take 30 years.
So five years in,
my husband,
my best friend,
and I decided to
start a business.
I had gotten
into brewing
kombucha in
grad school.
When I served
some at one of
our meetings, my
friend said, Why
dont we just sell
this? After we
sold out at one
farmers market
in 20 minutes,
I knew wed hit
on something.
71
N O.
Americas
Melting Pot
Has Never
Tasted Better
Call it fusion.
O r what ever
else you want.
But even Donald
Tr ump would
endor se a di sh
t hi s deli ci ous
B Y A N D R E W K N O W LT O N
MoPhos spicy
wok-fried
ramen with blue
crab, chiles,
and mint relies
on Japanese,
Mediterranean,
Creole, and
Thai flavors.
73
Here at BA, we
like to think were
as indie-minded as
everyone else in
the food world. But
when you work in the
tallest skyscraper in
America, its hard to
argue youre keeping
it real. Fortunately,
small journals are
unearthing the ways
craftier people are
getting down with
food. Heres how we
catch up without
leaving our cubicles.
Read
Em and
Eat
CHERRY
BOMBE
N O.
9
LUCKY
PEACH
FOOL
Talented Swedes
Lotta and Per-Anders
Jrgensen highlight
pros like Magnus Nilsson
and Massimo Bottura.
Meanwhile, Fools
fantastic Spotify
account goes into
the ears of chefs.
B RU TA L
MAGAZINE
THE
GOURMAND
GAT H E R
JOURNAL
Seasonal recipes
built around artistic
themes like magic,
cocoon, or the latest,
origin. A useful app
compiles all the recipes
(and saves that nice
paper stock from
grease splatters).
74
Find these
mags online
or wherever
handmade
ceramic spoons
are sold.
#NEVERSTOPEXPLORING
N O.
10
M I C RO B I OT I C
D E TOXY M O RO N
JUSTIFIES
G LU T E N AU G H T
H I P ST E R V EGA N
GY M AT H T I C S
F.O. M .O.VA R I A N
Consuming an absurdly
large portion by painstakingly
dividing it into seemingly
insignificant nano-bites.
Tactical ordering to
obtain a subtle advantage
when splitting the check.
E .W. F.
CLEANSE SUCCESS
Similar to
T E E TOTO L L
perception
reality
JUICE PRICE
F I C K L E- P I C K L E R
S CA RS DA L I A N
OMNIBORE
BLEAKEND
An intermittent fast
where you eat like a beast
for five days before
starving yourself for two.
B O N E B ROT H E R
ILLUSTRATIONS
GUTTER
BY BRUCE HUTCHISON
V E N T R I LO Q U I S I N E
PAC - M A N G E U R
%
shared
%
eaten
F L E X I TA R I A N
PAT T Y VO R E
73
@whatforbreakfast,
307K followers
I try to use
colors that
make my meal
kind of pop
up. Oh, and
fried eggs!
11
N O.
@bonappetitmag
1hr
1hr
@bonnietsang,
78K followers
Sweets and
little treats
appeal to
the widest
audience.
Who doesnt
get excited
when they
see ice
cream?
BY JULIA KRAMER
W h en ever y
taco is just a pic
wa i ti n g to h ap p en ,
w h at yo u e at r e a l l y
m atter s . We p o lled
Insta-star s for
advice proven to
b low u p yo u r feed
#BLESSED
For the
recipe for these
like-baiting Tex-Mex
Breakfast Waffle
Nachos, go to
bonappetit.com
/nachos
@linda_lomelino,
655K followers
People
really like
foods that
drip, like
caramel,
maple
syrup, and
chocolate.
VIII.
VI.
X.
IV.
II.
V.
III.
I.
IX.
VII.
1,684,302 likes
@bonappetitmag BAs 10 Instagram Commandments
77
@nutritionstripped,
194K followers
A bit of
imperfection
is beautiful.
Embrace
that!
@sundaysuppers,
264K followers
12
What Are We
WA I T I N G
SINCE:
4 : 1 5 P. M .
WAITING
SINCE:
5 : 1 0 P. M .
78
N O.
For?
I brought a chair to be
comfortable, just like Gretchen
down therewe are both with
TaskRabbit; I see her all the time.
WAITING
SINCE:
3 : 3 0 P. M .
Adam, 29
WAITING
SINCE:
3 : 4 5 P. M .
Jonathan Lapierre,
4 6 , Ta s k Ra b b i t - e e r
Ke n D r o d d y, 3 1 , e n g i n e e r
# F R O M W H E R E I S TA N D
E AT S M A R T
N O.
13
THE
by B E L L E C U S H I N G - photographs by M A RC US N I L S S O N
MOSTLY
GRAINS
INVERT
T H E P L AT E
The meat-and-three
plate is the American
dinnertime ideal. But as
Barber explained in his
game-changing book, The
Third Plate, a hunk of prime
beef is a mark of unrealistic
dining expectations in
the 21st century. The
protein-centric plate of
food is disastrous, he says.
Instead, make meat
a supporting character
(all the cool chefs are doing
it). Skipping that eightounce steak in favor of two
ounces in a braise leaves
more room for the alt-grains
and colorful vegetables that
are having such a moment.
SOME
VEG
A LITTLE
BIT OF
MEAT
THE PLATE
OF THE
FUTURE
COOK LIKE YOUR
GREAT- GREATGRANDMA
81
S E AW E E D
SHELLFISH
FOR THE WIN
Bivalves are
magical. They
actually help to make
the environment
better. Bivalves filter
the water they live
in, create entire
habitats through
some self-made reefs,
and, when farmed,
require no expensive
or destructive feed.
Another dozen
bluepoints, please.
SQUID
CLAMS
A N C H OV I E S
E AT LOW
( C A L LY )
OYST E RS
P L A N K TO N
TINY
SHRIMP
T RY A
NEW BREED
WA I T, A R E N T G M O S B A D ?
The Honeynut
is estimated
to pack
double the
beta-carotene
of its hefty
counterpart;
plus, its so
sweet, theres
no need to
add sugar or
maple syrup.
The 898
is only
4 tall.
COMING
AT TRACTIONS
PIRACICABA
Think multiheaded
broccoli. Its thinner stalks
can withstand high
heat and are mild enough
to snack on raw.
MOUNTAIN
MAGIC TOMATO
KOSSAK
KOHLRABI
HABANADA
PEPPERS
Another Mazourek
original. Imagine a
habanero pepper, but
all sweet and no heat.
Waited
in line for
more than
an hour to
eat ramen.
Tagged her
photo
#overrated.
14
N O.
She last
fought with her
boyfriend after she
painted her nails on
top of a Lucky Peach.
He was saving it for
his archive, and she
KNEW that.
Really likes
what that
local distillery
has been
making lately.
Also, Fireball.
She still
cant
believe her
building
super put
dairy in the
compost
bin.
BY A N N A P E E L E
I L L U S T R AT I O N S BY L AU R A
CA L L AG H A N
Anatomy of
a Millennial
Millennials are
hungry: They outspend
ot h er g en erat io n s o n
restaurant s and are
forking over $96 billion
a ye ar on food. Here,
a less-than-scientific
look at their purchases
Basically goes
camping just
for the tins
of imported
sardines.
She doesnt
own a vacuum
cleaner, but she does
own a SodaStream (the
Yves Bhar-designed
one, of course). Which
reminds her, she needs
to change the CO2
cartridge.
The bottom
shelf of her
refrigerator
holds a
sourdough
starter, a
kombucha
mother, and a
discontinued
flavor of
Dunkaroos
( for irony).
Shes not
sure what you
mean by
well liquor,
but can
she please
see the craft
beer list?
RESEARCH BY JULIE MA
She spent
three hours and
$45 tracking down
cardamom pods and
corn flour to make
corn cookiesmore
than it would have
cost to buy a dozen
at Milk Bar.
#SQUADGOALS
Shes
spending
14 times
as much on
food as
the average
middleclass
family.
Grass-fed
bresaola
doesnt
come
cheap.
N O.
Pastries
Are So Hot
Right Now
The
Prada-fied
Pasticceria
Marchesi
in Milan.
# I H AV E T H I S T H I N G W I T H F L O O R S
PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF PRADA. ILLUSTRATIONS BY OSCAR BOLTON GREEN. FOR RESTAURANT DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.
15
AQ UAV I T B L E N D # 1
Venus Spirits, Santa Cruz, CA
APPLE DU NORD SPICED APPLE
Du Nord Craft Spirits, Minneapolis
BOSTON RUM
Bully Boy Distillers, Roxbury, MA
VO D K A
Old Fourth Distillery, Atlanta
The brothers
behind Bully Boy
were inspired by the
vault of 1920s liquor
they discovered
in the basement of
their childhood
home.
E B B + F L O W VO D K A
Sound Spirits Distillery, Seattle
D O U B L E RY E !
High West Distillery, Park City, UT
B L U E C OAT A M E R I C A N D RY G I N
Philadelphia Distilling, Philadelphia
EUPHROSINE GIN #9
Atelier Vie, New Orleans
O R GA N I C G I N E V E R
Wigle Whiskey, Pittsburgh
CORN WHISKEY
Louthan Distilling, Baltimore
BLUEBIRD ALPINE LIQUEUR
Thomas & Sons Distillery, Portland, OR
New York
Citys oldest
operating whiskey
distillery.
(It was founded
in 2010.)
G R E E N H AT G I N
New Columbia Distillers, Washington, D.C.
D O G PAT C H W H I S K E Y
Seven Stills, San Francisco
JASMINE LIQUEUR
Koval Distillery, Chicago
P E AT E D B O U R B O N
Kings County Distillery, Brooklyn
The
first to open
in notoriously
dry Utah
since 1870.
NO.
THERE WAS A TIME WHEN D.I.Y. DISTILLERS were backcountry outlaws. These days its
urban hipsters, not hillbillies, who are bottling the countrys best small-batch hooch.
In the past ten years, the number of craft distilleries in the U.S. has exploded from around
35 to more than 750. Much of this boozy boom has been made possible by the loosening
of draconian state and local laws that hadnt been touched since Prohibition, spurred both
by opportunistic, seen-the-light legislatorsthe taxes! the tourism dollars!and dogged
young liquor makers willing to lobby the government to secure their inalienable right
to party. Above, the bottles wed race the Duke boys for. A M I E L STA N E K
87
From left:
James Murphy,
Christina Topse,
Justin Chearno,
and Randy Moon.
N O.
17
W A L K
I N T O
o
u
r
F
Fo u r
B A R . . .
Musician James
Murphys idea
of a solo career
was to open a
restaurant with
his family and
friends. The
result is that rare
celebrity-driven
spot that just
feels right. Dont
believe us? Let
these recipes show
you the way
Roasted
Carrots with
Stracciatella
and Buckwheat
P. 90
Beets with
Pecorino, Pecans,
and Shishito
Peppers
P. 93
P
P
PUT THIS IN YOUR FACE .
B O N I TO B U T T E R
B O N I TO B U T T E R Melt butter in a
THEY CANT
ALL BE JIMMY
BUFFETT
A look back at
some not-so-great
celeb restaurants
1994 1999
DIVE!
S t eve n S p i e l b e r g
This submarine-shaped
jointwhere every
30 minutes a siren
blared and a voice
yelled DIVE!was too
much for Vegas and L.A.
1995
PASTA M A N I A!
Hu lk Hogan
FAS H I O N CA F
Claudia
S c h i f f e r, C h r i s t y
Tu rlington, E lle
Macp herson , and
Naomi Campbell
NYLA
B r i t n ey S p e a r s
F L AVS F R I E D
CHICKEN
Flavor Flav
The rapper-fronted
shack in Clinton, Iowa,
lasted three months.
2014
SHE BY MORTONS
Eva Longo ria
Mirrored dessert
menus (for reapplying
lipstick) and gendered
portions (He-Cuts,
She-Cuts, and We-Cuts)
couldnt save it
from numerous health
code violations.
JOSIE ADAMS
Seared Steak
with Cipolline
Onions and
Radicchio
Fried Potatoes
with TomatoChipotle Sauce
and Aioli
PHOTOGRAPHS: ALEX LAU (STEAK, CARROTS, BEETS). FOOD STYLING BY SUSIE THEODOROU. PROP STYLING BY KALEN KAMINSKI.
ILLUSTRATIONS BY OSCAR BOLTON GREEN. FOR RESTAURANT DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.
P OTATO E S A N D ASS E M B LY
T H E T E C H N O L O G I ST
N O.
18
Behold!
The
Future
of Food
None of these seve n
p e o p l e a r e c h ef s . B u t yo u l l
want to remember their names .
Bec ause by 2020 they will have
ra d i c a l l y c h a n g e d t h e way we e at
94
DANIELLE GOULD
CEO and founder, Food + Tech Connect
B Y BELLE CUSHING
T H E ACA D E M I C
T H E R E STAU R AT EU R
WILLIAM ROSENZWEIG
Dean and co-founder, Food Business School at the CIA
KIMBAL MUSK
Co-founder, The Kitchen restaurants and The Kitchen Community
The other Musk brother mixes business knowhow with a culinary degree to launch restaurants
that source local food efficiently. His partner
.
nonprofit builds gardens in schools
. Up next:
Three restaurants in Memphis; 66 school gardens.
T H E L O CA L F I S H M O N G E R
T H E AC T I V I ST
SEAN BARRETT
Founder, Dock to Dish
F L AV I A C A B R A L
Activist, Fight for $15
T H E C O N G R E SSWO M A N
AARON WEHNER
SVP, Clarkson Potter, Ten Speed Press, and Harmony Books
CHELLIE PINGREE
U.S. Rep., Maines 1st District
His transformation of Ten Speed from an offthe-radar publisher into the house of coveted deals
(Ottolenghi!) led him to take on Clarkson Potter, too.
Ina Gartens sales can now back Korean-food comic
books. Up next: Daniel Humm; Chrissy Teigen.
DO YOU REMEMBER what you used to eat at music festivals? We dontbecause it was so
unremarkable. Now amped-up tacos and artisanal ice pops are as much of a draw as the
headliners. After all, youve gotta give the people what they wantand the people want
tasty food. We caught the crowd at Austins Fun Fun Fun Fest digging in. EMMA WARTZMAN
Food is
critical. If Im going
to be at a festival for
three days, Id hope
to have access to
pretty great food.
Anthony
Mathieu
You need
food if you
want to party.
D a n ny
Vac o n
We dont have a
lot of food trucks in
Canada. People probably
thought we were weirdos
because we were so
happy to have tacos.
Reb ecc a
White
I love
wasting money
on good food.
Jo rdan H.
B ake r, l e f t
ON THE
LINEUP
3,20 0
1,50 0
900
698
674
11 0
Kimchi
fries at
ChiLantro
Cucumber-kale
agua frescas
at JuiceLand
Fried brussels
sprout salads at
East Side King
Frozen peanut-butterand-Oreo-dipped
bananas at Bananarchy
Notorious P.I.G.
sandwiches
at Slab BBQ
Gallons
of queso
at Frank
#BUCKETLIST
A Dessert That
Everyone
Can Agree On
N O.
PHOTOGRAPH BY GENTL & HYERS. FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH. PROP STYLING BY KALEN KAMINSKI.
ILLUSTRATION BY OSCAR BOLTON GREEN.
The
avo c ad o s a d d
creaminess
a n d b od y
without dairy
or eg g .
20
*Vegans
can
sk ip the
whip pe d
crea m.
Chocolate-Avocado Pudding
Scoop flesh from 2 large avocados into a blender and scrape in seeds from 1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise; discard pod.
Add cup unsweetened cocoa powder, cup pure maple syrup, cup agave nectar, cup fresh orange juice, and
tsp. kosher salt and blend to a coarse pure. With motor running, gradually stream in cup hot (but not boiling) water;
blend, adding more orange juice as needed, until smooth and creamy. Divide pudding among eight 46 oz. ramekins or
small bowls and chill at least 2 hours and up to 3 days (cover once set). To serve, whip 1 cups heavy cream in a medium bowl
to soft peaks and spoon over pudding, if desired; top with cup cocoa nibs and/or chopped hazelnuts. 6 servings
97
N O.
21
Jonathan
Brooks, chef
and owner
of BA Hot 10
winner
Milktooth in
Indianapolis.
by J O H N B I R D S A L L - photograph by M A T T H A A S
Artisanal
pickles, handthrown ceramics,
and pour-over
coffee helped turn
the New York City
borough into a
name brand. But
what happens now
that those things
exist more or less
everywhere? A visit
to Indianapolis
(yes, Indianapolis)
to learn what
locally made
means for the locals
B R O O K
B R O O K L
B R O O K
B R O O K L
B R O O K
B R O O K L
B R O O K
B R O O K L
B R O O K
B R O O K L
B R O O K
B R O O K L
B R O O K
B R O O K L
IS
L Y N
Y N
L Y N
Y N
L Y N
Y N
L Y N
Y N
L Y N
Y N
L Y N
Y N
L Y N
Y N
L AT E R
T H AT
E V E N I N G,
prep school
TECHNIQUES, TIPS, AND MORE FROM THE BON APPTIT TEST KITCHEN
FROM P. 12
Go-to
Gochujang
The spicy
fermented
Korean pepper
paste is more
than just one
of our favorite
condiments in the
BA Test Kitchen.
Thanks to its
various levels
of heat, the fiery
red soybeanbased paste also
provides a stellar
bottom note to
sauces, a kick to
Mexican salsas,
a boost to miso in
a simple soup or
stewit can even
serve as an allin-one marinade
for proteins
or vegetables.
And its sugars
caramelize when
they come into
contact with
direct heat,
making it an ideal
candidate for
grilling or searing
in cast iron. So
the next time
you need to add
fast flavor and
complexity, reach
for the big tub
you bought for
our GochujangBraised Chicken
and Crispy Rice
recipe. Theres a
reason its not sold
in tiny quantities!
FROM P. 61
L I LY F R E E D M A N
1.
2.
3.
M A RC H 2 0 1 6 1 07
PREP SCHOOL
FROM P.61
GRIDDLE
ME THIS
Every breakfast-loving
home cook worth her
flapjacks knows a wellseasoned two-burner
cast-iron griddle is the
key to proper dinerstyle chow. Its a glossy
blank slate, awaiting all
manner of eggs and pork
products. Ours gets just
as much play after work
as it does in the a.m.
Its long, evenly heating
surface is perfect for
getting a hard sear on
quick-cooking meats
(its the length of a whole
skirt steak!), charring
veg, and crisping thick
slabs of bread. If you
want to sound extra fancy,
go ahead and call it a
plancha. Here are
just some of the things
were using it for.
L E A R N H OW TO
BONE OUT A
CHICKEN THIGH
Skinless, boneless chicken is
definitely convenient, but if
you consider fried chicken with
no skin a sacrilege, youll buy
skin-on, bone-in thighs and bone
them yourself. Heres how.
C.S.
1.
A M I E L STA N E K
Sauting sausage
with onions and peppers
like a line cook.
2.
FROM P. 26
1 08 M A RC H 2 0 1 6
3.
FROM P.66
The New
Coconut
Pantry
Coconut oil? So last
year. These days the
cult of coconut is
taking over everything
from flour to vinegar
without making
everything it touches
taste like a macaroon.
Products made from
the flesh (flour, butter)
have a mild flavor, while
anything derived from
the sap (sugar, nectar,
vinegar) has all the
health benefits with
none of the pia colada
tones. Heres to never
eating a non-coconutbased pantry item
again. B E L L E C U S H I N G
SU GA R
F LO U R
BUTTER
N ECTA R
V I N EGA R
Dried coconut
meat is ground
into a dense
powder thats
rich in protein
and fiber. It cant
be swapped at
a 1:1 ratio for
all-purpose but
would be welcome
in a gluten-free
baking blend.
We seecoconutbanana bread.
This viscous
liquid sweetener
is made from
the sap of
coconut palm
trees. Theres no
coconut flavor,
so it makes a
great alt for
agave or simple
syrup. Guess
what? Your next
cocktail just got a
little bit healthier.
Made from
fermented
coconut sap, this
vinegar is milder
than apple cider
but with all the
nutritional vim
and vigor. A shot
in the morning
might boost your
digestion, or
drizzle on salads
and into sauces to
mix up your acid.
FROM P. 00
ILLO TK
PREP SCHOOL
FROM P.34
FROM P.32
1.
2.
3.
How to...Turn
an Artichoke
sourcebook
APPETIZER
SHOPPING LIST
BEVERAGES
Iced Horchata Latte p.13
The Rattlesnake p.26
Sparkling Lemon
Cocktail p.34
BREAKFAST
Coconut-Date Power
Breakfast Bars p.68
Coddled Egg p.22
SANDWICH
BAs Best Fried Chicken
Sandwich p.61
SOUP
Aromatic Shrimp and
Noodle Medicine Soup
p.46
MAIN COURSES
MEAT
Hoisin-Glazed Pork
Chops p.40
Seared Steak with
Cipolline Onions and
Red Chicory p.93
Stuffed Lamb Breast
with Lemon, Ricotta,
and Oregano p.35
PASTA
Pasta with Rock
Shrimp, Chile, and
Lemon p.90
POULTRY
Coconut Chicken
Curry with Turmeric
and Lemongrass
p.68
Gochujang-Braised
Chicken and Crispy
Rice p.12
VEGETABLES,
SIDE DISHES
Aromatic Wilted Greens
with Coconut Milk
p.68
Beets with Pecorino,
Pecans, and Shishito
Peppers p.93
Braised Artichokes with
Tomatoes and Mint p.32
Cacio e Pepe Potatoes
p.34
Cannellini Beans with
Spinach p.34
Crunchy Winter Slaw
with Asian Pear and
Manchego p.41
Fried Potatoes with
Tomato-Chipotle
Sauce and Aioli p.93
Roasted Carrots
with Stracciatella and
Buckwheat p.90
Twice-Roasted
Sweet Potatoes with
Hot Honey p.39
DESSERTS
Chocolate-Avocado
Pudding p.97
Dark Chocolate
Semifreddo p.36
GrapefruitPoppy
Seed Loaf Cake with
Yogurt Glaze p.42
FOR NUTRITIONAL
INFO FOR THE
RECIPES IN THIS
ISSUE, GO TO
BONAPPETIT.COM
/RECIPES
1 1 2 M A RC H 2 0 1 6
THE LOOK p. 17
From left to right, top to bottom:
GRANADA LA ROCHELLE TILE $18 per sq. ft.;
granadatile.com
ANN SACKS EASTERN PROMISE GATSBY TILE
$27 per sq. ft.; annsacks.com
GRANADA COPENHAGEN TILE $18 per sq. ft.;
granadatile.com
CLE HEX TRY ANGLE TILE $6 per tile; cletile.com
ANN SACKS EASTERN PROMISE FEZ TILE $27 per sq. ft.;
annsacks.com
ANN SACKS EASTERN PROMISE MAMOUNIA TILE
$27 per sq. ft.; annsacks.com
VILLA LAGOON LISBON TILE $7 per tile;
villalagoontile.com
VILLA LAGOON TANGIER TILE $9 per tile;
villalagoontile.com
KISMET JUNIPER TILE $29 per sq. ft.; kismettile.com
CLE BIG AL TILE $7 per tile; cletile.com
VILLA LAGOON KISMET TILE $7 per tile;
villalagoontile.com
CLE LONDON APOTHECARY TILE $7 per tile; cletile.com
BIG CITIES, SMALL DISTILLERIES p. 87
For information on where to buy, visit the websites.
ATELIER VIE EUPHROSINE GIN #9 BARREL-FINISHED
RESERVE ateliervie.com
BULLY BOY DISTILLERS BOSTON RUM
bullyboydistillers.com
DU NORD CRAFT SPIRITS APPLE DU NORD SPICED
APPLE SPIRIT dunordcraftspirits.com
HIGH WEST DISTILLERY DOUBLE RYE! highwest.com
HIGH WIRE DISTILLING CO. SOUTHERN AMARO
LIQUEUR highwiredistilling.squarespace.com
KINGS COUNTY DISTILLERY PEATED BOURBON
kingscountydistillery.com
KOVAL DISTILLERY JASMINE LIQUEUR
koval-distillery.com
LOUTHAN DISTILLING CORN WHISKEY
louthandistilling.com
NEW COLUMBIA DISTILLERS GREEN HAT GIN
greenhatgin.com
OLD FOURTH DISTILLERY VODKA o4d.com
PHILADELPHIA DISTILLING BLUECOAT AMERICAN
DRY GIN philadelphiadistilling.com
SEVEN STILLS DOGPATCH WHISKEY sevenstillsofsf.com
SOUND SPIRITS DISTILLERY EBB+FLOW VODKA
drinksoundspirits.com
THOMAS & SONS DISTILLERY BLUEBIRD ALPINE
LIQUEUR thomasandsonsdistillery.com
VENUS SPIRITS AQUAVIT BLEND #1 venusspirits.com
WIGLE WHISKEY ORGANIC GINEVER wiglewhiskey.com
TRAVEL PLANNER
COVER
ROBERTAS 261 Moore St., Brooklyn, NY; 718-417-1118;
robertaspizza.com
R.S.V.P. pp. 1213
COFAX 440 N. Fairfax Ave., L.A.; 323-424-7485;
cofaxcoffee.com
OIJI 119 First Ave., NYC; 646-767-9050; oijinyc.com
CHECKLIST p. 22
THE MIAMI BEACH EDITION 2901 Collins Ave., Miami
Beach; 786-257-4500; editionhotels.com/miami-beach
VERDE AT THE PREZ ART MUSEUM MIAMI
1103 Biscayne Blvd., Miami; 786-345-5697;
pamm.org/dining
LOVE LETTER p. 24
CAMINO 3917 Grand Ave., Oakland, CA;
caminorestaurant.com
THE 360 p. 26
ARMOURY D.E. 2714 Elm St., Dallas; armouryde.com
THE MERCURY 675 Ponce de Leon Ave. NE, Atlanta
THE PARTY pp. 3136
VIA CAROTA 51 Grove St., NYC; viacarota.com
THE NEW HEALTHY pp. 4446
ANGKOR RESTAURANT 10 Traverse St., Providence;
angkorrestaurant.com
718-599-4900; fourhorsemenbk.com
BROOKLYN IS WHERE YOU MAKE IT pp. 98101
AMELIAS 653 Virginia Ave., Indianapolis;
317-686-1580; ameliasbread.com
BLACK MARKET 922 Massachusetts Ave., Indianapolis;
317-822-6757; blackmarketindy.net
BLUEBEARD 653 Virginia Ave., Indianapolis;
317-686-1580; bluebeardindy.com
CALVIN FLETCHERS COFFEE COMPANY
647 Virginia Ave., Indianapolis; 317-423-9697;
cfcoffeecompany.com
THE HI-FI 1043 Virginia Ave., Indianapolis;
317-493-1209; hifiindy.com
LOVE HANDLE 2829 E. Tenth St., Indianapolis;
317-430-5004
MARROW 1106 Prospect St., Indianapolis;
317-986-6752; marrowindy.com
MILKTOOTH 534 Virginia Ave., Indianapolis;
317-986-5131; milktoothindy.com
PIONEER 1110 Shelby St., Indianapolis;
317-986-6761; pioneerindy.com
b.o.t .n .
BACK OF THE NAPKIN
PART Y P L A N N E R
Conversation
starters care
of Handler,
written in Los
Angeles on
November 20,
2015
FOOD STYLING BY ALI NARDI. PROP STYLING BY ANGELA CAMPOS.
ILLUSTRATION BY JOE WILSON.
CHELSEA HANDLER
Id rather eat
cleanlike oysters,
which I loveand
be able to drink.
b.o.t .n .
BACK OF THE NAPKIN