Professional Documents
Culture Documents
com
FIBERGLASS
CONSTRUCTION
AND FABRICATION
Step By Step
Table of Contents:
LESSON 1: BEGINNING TH E PRO JECT: FRAME
CONSTRUCTIO N ............................................................... 4
A S IM P L E D E S IG N F O R S T A R T E R S ........................................................... 4
Fi gu re 1 : S crol li n g S aw ................................................................ 4
T R A N S O M , K E E L & C H IN E S ................................................................... 5
Fi gu re 3 : A li gn in g Part s ............................................................... 5
7
7
8
8
11 :
12 :
13 :
14 :
Tapi n g Th e H ul l ..........................................................1 1
More Tape .................................................................1 2
Tape Det ail ................................................................1 2
Th e Next St ep PV A A ppl i cati on ....................................1 3
30 :
31 :
32 :
33 :
34 :
LESSON
I use a scr olling jig s aw t o cut out the outline of the deck and
all of my hull pieces. The deck outline was first drawn onto a
piece of poster board and then cut out with a pair of scissors. I
then trace the same half of the poster board cut-out onto either
side of a center line drawn on the mahogany. This method
insures symmetry.
I cut and then smooth the edges of these pieces with a belt
sander and then attach them to the underside of the deck with a
high quality hobby epoxy. I like to begin by gluing the transom
to the underside of the deck. As you can see in the picture
above, I use a piece of aluminum angle as an alignment jig.
This keeps everything square and tight while the epoxy is curing.
Note that in addition to tacking the deck to the MDF with staples,
I also use weights to hold the deck down to prevent warping or
movement.
Once the transom i s soli dly i n pl ace, the center keel and chines
can be cemented i nto pl ace.
Si nce I am buil ding thi s hull from scratch and thi s i s not i ntended
to be a hi gh speed or hi gh perform ance hull , I ali gn these pi eces
usi ng a combi nati on of a measuri ng tape, the eyeball method and
a 90 degree angl e rul er.
5
LESSON
Lesson 2:
Completing the Basic
Hull Structure: Filling with Foam
Once the epoxy cures and the frame pi eces are securely i n pl ace,
I begi n to fill the framework wi th foam and begi n the shapi ng
process.
The process continues. I r ough cut some of the foam bef ore
attaching it to the deck. The perimeter of the hull was filled with
green foam blocks.
A Simple Process
Just li ke the si des of the hull , the bottom of the hull i s si mpl y
sanded down to the l evel of the wooden frame.
10
LESSON
Lesson 3:
Preparing the Hull for
Fiberglass Application
Now that the hull i s shaped, I can prepare i t for fi bergl ass
appl i cati on.
Thi s preparati on i nvol ves removi ng all of the foam parti cl es that
are l eft from the sanding process. Thi s i s best accompli shed wi th
an ai r compressor.
Once the outer surface i s cl ean, I will cover the foam wi th
maski ng tape. Duri ng thi s process, I am careful to l eave the
wooden formers exposed because I want the fi bergl ass to sti ck to
that part of the structure.
I just use regular m asking tape for this step. This step will
make for a clean interior of the final hull. The tape keeps the
resin from adhering to the foam and allows the foam to release
easily after the fiberglass has cured.
11
12
13
LESSON
Lesson 4:
Fiberglass Application
14
At this stage, the fi rst l ayer of fibergl ass has been appl i ed.
15
The hull is pr epar ed and ready for the s econd layer of m at.
In addi ti on to the second l ayer of mat, I will al so appl y a final
l ayer of veil . Veil will smooth over the fi bers of the chopped mat.
16
T his is the hull with t he second la ye r of mat and veil applied. You
can see that there is excess mat e xten ding over the hull sides that I did
not try to roll over the bottom edge of t he hull. Once again, this helps
keep the edges sharp and clean.
18
19
Lesson 5:
Building The Deck
Wi th the hull smoothed out, I rem ove i t from the board and turn
my attenti on to the deck. I begin by drawi ng a li ne around the
peri meter of the deck that will be my cutti ng gui de. Then I use
my Dremel tool to cut the i nsi de of the deck out. See pi ctures
bel ow.
Deck is cut.
20
Lifting the cut piece off the d eck. Now that the i nsi de of the
deck has been removed, I can begi n removi ng the foam. The
foam comes out easy by hand and putty kni fe. Basi call y I just
chi p i t out, pry i t out and li ft it out. It all works.
22
23
I used brushes and a small roller to smooth the mat onto the
decks surface . Once thi s cures, I will cl ean up the excess mat
wi th my electri c sander and begi n the fi nal steps of thi s project.
25
With the d eck trim med, I do a qui ck once over the hull and
deck wi th a sanding bl ock. Then I mi x a pasty mixture of mi croball oons and resi n, catal yze it wi th MEKP and proceed t o use thi s
mixture to smooth out the i mperfecti ons i n the surface of my new
boat.
26
27
28
Materials List
THIS IS A LIST OF THINGS THAT YOU WILL NEED TO MAKE A FIBERGLASS
HULL OR JUST ABOUT ANY OTHER PROJECT WITH SIMILAR SURFACES.
1) Laminating Resin: This is the basis of any fiberglass project. You will
use this for both your mold and the pieces that you make with your
mold. Resin is usually bought by the gallon but can be purchased in
smaller quantities.
2) MEKP: This is what catalyzes or hardens the laminating resin.
3) Fiberglass Mat: This adds strength and form to the resin. Mat is
bought by the yard and comes in many different weights.
4) PVA: This is sprayed or wiped onto the plug or mold cavity to prevent
the resin and gelcoat from sticking. PVA goes on after the mold release
wax.
5) Rollers & Brushes: Used for applying and spreading resin and gelcoat.
These should be disposable as they are very difficult to clean.
6) Fume Mask: Keeps you from becoming horribly ill and full of cancer
from your materials. A fume mask is a must.
7) Latex Gloves: These keep your hands clean. I use a lot of these.
8) Acetone: Used to clean up your tools after you are finished. This stuff
cuts right through both the resin and the gelcoat.
9) Bondo: This is regular old body repair filler.
10) Microballoons: These are mixed with resin into a paste like
consistency and used to smooth over the surface of your project.
Materials and Tools Resource links on the next page . . . .
29
Resource Links:
www.uscomp osites.com
www.dmc-ca.com
www.fib erglassflor ida.com
If you have not yet purchased the 4 Manual Set on Fiberglass Molding you
may want to check it out here: http://www.FiberglassMoldManual.com
Theres fabrication of fiberglass and then theres MOLDING Fiberglass:
30