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A/W 14-15

TRENDS
SHOES
& BAGS

rock the grunge

asian flow

mash-up

american

the gourmet

The Ars Sutoria Trends Guide is specifically developed for designers and merchandisers who have
to create collections in the field of shoes & bags.
The typical workflow of a company has to deal not only with creativity and trends but also with
marketing, merchandising and technical development. Thanks to the connection between the
publishing house and the Ars Sutoria School we are in the conditions to offer a unique tool.
This publication is issued twice a year: in January and June.

CONTENT OF THE BOOK


Four major trends on worldwide lifestyle, deeply analyzed offering unique insights and ideas. Each
trends is divided in three sections:
CONCEPT: This first section presents and introduces the inspirational and creative trend themes.
It explains the main basic concepts of the theme and then specifies the key colours and the
proportions in which they will be used. Images introduce the atmosphere of the trend, together
with materials and a selection of iconic shoes and bags.
CONSUMER PROFILE: This section is intended to focus the market positioning of the collection.
Each trend is more related to a specific consumer profile. We identify the target consumer of each
trend looking at: where he lives, what he likes to do during his free time, which are the opinion
leaders he follows, what retails concepts he likes more, which goods he desires to buy, websites
he surfs, music he listen to. At the end of the section you can find a list of brands that can be
analyzed as competitors or reference brands.
COLLECTION PLANNING: The first question to be answered at this point always considering that
the collection will be created inside a company concerns the investments in the development of
new structures/materials. This means understanding, for each of the four trends, whether to focus
more on investing in structures (designs of new soles and heels with consequent mould opening,
etc.) or to focus more on purchasing new materials for dressing up the existing products in order
to enliven the collection.
MERCHANDISING THE TREND: to better illustrate the key structures or materials, we have
selected a range of sample shoes and bags, highlighting the most commercially viable
brands.
Photos can be easily found on arstrends.com website, a footwear and leathergoods overview.
SKETCHING THE TREND: the work ends with a real stylistic proposal, a sample collection of
designs with structured themes and balanced offering of the most conceptual and refined
ideas, as well as simpler and more commercial products.
MATERIALS FOR THE TREND: close to the sketches, we have provided material references
from Italian suppliers. A final section recaps materials and components that best match
each trend.

rock the grunge

asian flow

mash-up

american

the gourmet

Mash-up

STREET FASHION - MILAN

STREET FASHION - MILAN

Contemporary Popular Culture


Art +
Japan Pop
+ Theatrical
Xx Century Trash
Tropical + Vintage
Glamour + Folk

Ornamental + Rustic
Symbols + Pattern Matching

Casual + Decor Mesh


Fresh Mash + Style Look

PANTONE 18-5610 TPX

PANTONE 17-0330 TPX

PANTONE 15-0646 TPX

PANTONE 19-4006 TPX

PANTONE 18-2525 TPX

PANTONE 17-1558 TPX

PANTONE 16-1364 TPX

PANTONE 17-1118 TPX

PANTONE 18-1048 TPX

Mash-Up

PANTONE 18-5610 TPX

PANTONE 17-0330 TPX

Concept

Picking out and superimposing a mix of cultures.


Aesthetic styles typical of the last century, between rustic and
Japanese pop. Unconventional enough to become an icon of

contemporary trash. A new Urban Folk, full of popular and


artistic references that dictated the styles of the XX Century. From retro
design to pop art. The new artistic currents turn to contemporary pop,

PANTONE 15-0646 TPX

graphic and colourful, natural and organic.

Colours

Colour palettes that underline a surreal

taste to combine

unusual tones. Orange and green. Chocolate and neon yellow.


PANTONE 19-4006 TPX

Turquoise and shocking pink. Lime and lipstick red. Black and black.
Military green and burgundy.

Materials

Rich materials, rustic materials. Gold fabrics,


PANTONE 18-2525 TPX

geometrical printed designs, tapestry in natural fibres. Nylon, rubber,


polyurethane, high-frequency finishes. Painted studs, tarnished
metals. Chains of polished wood, gunmetal rings. Dyed furs in
shades of colour. Patchwork for new generation matelass kilting.
Flock effect on experimental materials. Wool, complex jacquard,
treated leathers. Appliqu and embroidery.

PANTONE 17-1558 TPX

PANTONE 16-1364 TPX

PANTONE 17-1118 TPX

PANTONE 18-1048 TPX

PANTONE and PANTONE Textile COLOUR SystemTM are trademarks of PANTONE,


Inc. Pantone LLC 1984, 2013
The PANTONE Reference Numbers shown herein represent the PANTONE
COLOURs most close to the COLOURs displayed. COLOUR reproduction may not
match PANTONE-identified textile solid COLOUR standard.
Consult the current PANTONE Textile COLOUR System Publications for accurate
COLOUR standards

concept
Tropical Folklore
The new mix of folk cultures from far and near
share the modern Pop art mood, including that
of music, leading to the current multicultural
meltdown and exchange. A market trend that
also attracts the big brands, to give a fresh and
youthful touch with very commercial capsule
collections, easy to sell online. Trash culture
whose loud colours and graphic designs
represent the favourite ingredients of the new
Asian generation, as well as Latin Americans.
A pop culture that mixes tastes and styles of
music and patterns.

THE EDITOR

ART BASEL 2012

STREET FASHION - PARIS

ART BASEL 2012

moodboard
tropical + vintage
glamour + folk
popular culture + theatrical
ornamental + rustic
local symbols + pattern matching
art + xx century trash
funky + japan pop

shoes-women:
guzzy surfaces,
velvet, ribbons
and yarns

bags-women:
chaos and
material chaos

shoes-men:
cubist and
geometric
embroidery

bags-men: interwoven
patterns and knitting

accessories:
richness of
applications
and decorations

leather: art
as new source
of inspiration.
Prints,
laser cuts,
embroideries,
color fluo

heels and soles:


insert texture, spray
colors, wooden heels,
digital pattern to the
soles tail

textile/synthetics:
bubbling, fluffy prints,
fluo pigments

MELISSA

E.M. COMPANY

C.D.C.

C.D.C.

C.D.C.

MORO MINUTERIE

VALTER

LANZI NASTRIFICIO

E.M. COMPANY

FINISHING KENDA FARBEN

LARTIGIANABOTTONI

E.M. COMPANY

accessories

DIMAR CONCERIA

MONTI & MONTI

OFFICINA DELLE PELLI

MASTROTTO CONCERIA

CHIORINO TECHNOLOGY

DIMAR CONCERIA

ESOTICA

MELISSA

ITALIANA ACCESSORI

OFFICINA DELLE PELLI

MELISSA

CERTALDESE

leather

VIBRAM

VIBRAM

FINISHING by KENDA FARBEN - SOLE CUOIO DI TOSCANA

APLASA

FINISHING by KENDA FARBEN - SOLE CUOIO DI TOSCANA

VIBRAM

soles

c.ft. crespi filitessuti

SCHMID ITALY

SCHMID ITALY

SCHMID ITALY

CORONET

SEGRE & SCHIEPPATI

SCHMID ITALY

SEGRE & SCHIEPPATI

TESSITURA ATTILIO IMPERIALI

SEGRE & SCHIEPPATI

c.ft. crespi filitessuti

certaldese

textile/synthetics

consumer
profile

WHERE THEY LIVE

Tokyo
Miami
Vladivostock
Ekaterinburg
Mexico City
Rio de Janeiro
Seoul
Las Vegas
Mexico City

Meeting of cosplayers in Harajuku


They live in cities where
cultures have mixed
together to create new
artistic movements.
New kitsch mixes with

modern street style.

Las Vegas - gambling

Pop exhibitions

FREE TIME

Milan Manga Festival


Pop art events
Contemporary street activities
Unbridled shopping
Swapping or bartering as a new form of consumption
Happened to be @ Hua-Hin 1 Bangkok

Zona Maco

Nicola Formichetti and Gage/Clemenceau architects


made their debut at this years Boffo Building
Architecture in NYC
Zona Maco Mexico City. The largest art
exhibition in Latin America

website & social

social:
Social networks for exchanging photos quickly
- P1.cn: social network for elite Chinese bloggers, journalists and artists
- Shoestagram: first social network dedicated to sharing photos of shoes
- DianDian: light blogging service
- Pinterest: social network where you can create real photo albums
and share, tag and comment photos
- Yatzer.com: platform for sharing photos of art and design
- VK: the best Russian social network. Excellent place for sharing
photos and chatting.

We Chat
The No. 1 instant messaging service in China.
Created in 2011, it now has 300 million users.
It is interactive with the possibility of sharing photos
and following friends and celebrities. It is now also
used as a strategic application for viral marketing by
companies such as Starbucks.
Fast and funny, and based on manga-style
emoticons.

OPINION LEADERS

Style Bubble

Takashi Murakami

Han HuoHuo
Oksana On

Lynn Yaeger
famous fashion
journalist

Formichetti & Lady Gaga


Nicola Formichetti

OPINION LEADERS

Ex art director for Thierry Mugler


Current creative director for Diesel
Fashion Stylist for Lady Gaga
Director of Mens Vogue Japan
Designer of the Nicopanda line
Considered the new Andy Warhol

Uniqlo new
collection
Lifewear in
collaboration
with Nicola
Formichetti

Formichetti & Renzo Rosso patron Diesel

OPINION LEADERS from Cina OPINION LEADERS from Russia

Sergey Lazarev. Once of the most popular singers


in Russia
Ivan Urgant on the cover of Interview magazine.
Urgant is the most famous TV presenter in Russia
Ulyana Sergeenko. Russian socialite and fashion
designer, and style icon
Miroslava Duma. New icon for young Russians,
ambassador of Chanel in Russia

Ivan Urgant

Sergey Lazarev

Miroslava Duma

Ulyana
Sergeenko

Barbie HSU Taiwanese

actress and singer known


for her love of shoes

Fa Bingbing.
Fa Bingbing. The most famous actress

in China. Style icon even in the West

Barbie HSU

retail
Nicopanda pop up store Harajuku
Flea Markets
Mix-and-match concept stores
Pop up stores
Trendy malls
Flynow flagship store in Bangkok

Brick Lane Market London

Common People
concept store in
Mexico City
Louis Vuitton pop up store Miami

Aura, the second largest mall in


Russia

WHAT THEY LOVE

Smart by Jeremy Scott


Easy pop technology
Coloured watches
Fun and extravagant cars

car:
- Lamborghini pop and fancy
- Smart by Jeremy Scott
- Ros Lovergrove by Renault

pop technology:
- Hi Panda
- Hi Fun

Swatch 30th
Anniversary
collection

perfumes:
- Madly Kenzo

watches:
- Swatch 30th Anniversary collection
- Pop Swatches

Madly Kenzo

Hi Panda

Marco Lodola

Folk Pop Design


Fun artistic objects

design:

Roy Lichtenstein & Barneys

-Kartell
-Cosplay statues

capsule collection:
- Roy Lichtenstein & Barneys collection
of accessories for home and bags

art pieces:
- Elisabeth Lecourt
- Marco Lodola
- Joe Sorren

WHAT THEY LOVE

Joe Sorren

Joe Sorren: American is the first artist to be


supported by fundraising via the internet.

music

Will I am

Pop music with


electronic elements
- The Coachella
Festival is held
every year in Indio,
California. Mecca
for those who love
electronic music and
sculptural exhibitions.

Katy Perry
Coachella 2013
Lady Gaga

- Strawberry Festival of
pop and electronic music
is the most popular
music festival in China.
Organised in Shanghai
and Beijing with Chinese
and international artists.

Niki Minaj

brands
Luxury

Commerciali

collection
planning
Casual Street
Glamour Folk

RALPH LAUREN

VOLTA FOOTWEAR

shoes

Trend positioning according to the outsole


New urban folk for an aggressive, young,

graphic and colourful theme.


Beyond the catwalks, it is a theme that lends itself well to the interpretation of streetwear,
therefore, the world of rubber soles, hybrids and sneakers for men and women.
For women: a dressy product for a woman who wants something fun and loves playing
with patterns and colours. Decorated velvet

and wool are the most important materials.

For men: dressy remains a market niche/fashion show, while free reign is given to

women

graphics on linings and structures with rubber soles for a more marketable product.

CUSTO BARCELONA

HYBRID

DOLCE & GABBANA

DRESSY

men

SNEAKERS

DR. MARTENS MADE IN ENGLAND

DOLCE & GABBANA

STREET FASHION - MILAN


VOLTA FOOTWEAR

dressy: colourfull and graphic dressy

MAURO GASPERI

catwalk products - exhibitions

DOLCE & GABBANA

NOVA CHIU

colourfull and graphic dressy

NOVA CHIU

products from exhibitions - catwalk products - iconic brands

ANNA SUI

DKNY

FERRAGAMO

HUDSON

decorated hybrid

DR. MARTENS MADE IN ENGLAND

CUSTO BARCELONA

CUSTO BARCELONA

STREET FASHION- LONDON

EMPORIO ARMANI

ALEXANDRE HERCHCOVITCH

ALEXANDRE HERCHCOVITCH

boots: decor and color


catwalk products - people

products from exhibitions - catwalk products

FORNARINA

products from exhibitions

XYXYX

KILIM BOOTS

BUNKER

KILIM BOOTS

folk boots

multicolour rainy boots

SPERRY TOP SIDER

products from exhibitions

SOREL

COLORS OF CALIFORNIA

SOREL

pattern matching sneakers

products from exhibitions

DUE DI PICCHE RECYCLED

CANDICE COOPER

CANDICE COOPER

DKNY

products from exhibitions

GOLA + LIBERTY

SPRING FOOTWEAR

pattern matching sneakers

SPRING FOOTWEAR

BEVERLY HILLS POLO CLUB

W MOUNTANEING

products from exhibitions - windows - catwalk products

YOU FOOTWEAR

VOLTA FOOTWEAR

MIHARASUHIRO

funny hybrid man

products from exhibitions - windows - catwalk products

WOOYOUNGMI

VIKTOR & ROLF

ALEXANDRE HERCHCOVITCH

NIKE

pattern matching sneakers

products from exhibitions

graphic hybrid & sneakers

BARRACUDA

SOULLAND

CANDICE COOPER

MUTTA

STREET FASHION - MILAN

STREET FASHION - LONDON

products from exhibitions - people

multicolors sneakers

GOLA + LIBERTY

STRADA

This theme loves to mix different materials creating graphics and


overlapping designs, also thanks to the contrasting materials. The starring role
goes to fabrics inspired by native and folk designs combined with thick leather.

Fantastic and surreal shapes deriving from the world of pop culture,
interpreted with art and patch themes. Baskets, clutch bags, buckets,
hexagonal shapes, gypsy bags, coloured backpacks.

women

bags

Trend positioning according to materia

CUSTO BARCELONA

RALPH LAUREN

textile /new
materials

men

mix

KENZO

CARVEN

leather

KENZO

decor on maxi volume

TORY BURCH

MOSCHINO

KTZ

BRACCIALINI

products from exhibitions - catwalk products

folck & graphic

EASTPAK

RALPH LAUREN
RALPH LAUREN

KILIM FASHION

CUSTO BARCELONA

products from exhibitions - catwalk products - iconic brands

ANNA SUI

NIGERIA DESIGNERS
COLLECTIVE - PITTI IMMAGINE

patterns

ANNA SUI

ANNA SUI

TORY BURCH

FENDI

STREET FASHION - MILAN

STREET FASHION - PARIS

STREET FASHION - PARIS

fantasy pochette & clutch


products from exhibitions - catwalk products

products from exhibitions - windows - catwalk products

SKETCHES

ITALIANA ACCESSORI

colourfull and graphic dressy

FINISHING by KENDA FARBEN - SOLE CUOIO DI TOSCANA

DIMAR CONCERIA

colourfull and graphic dressy

SCHMID ITALY

LANZI NASTRIFICIO

SEGRE & SCHIEPPATI

boots: decor & colour

boots: decor & colour

SEGRE & SCHIEPPATI

SCHMID ITALY

folk boots

1
1

GRAPHIC DESIGN

CHIORINO TECHNOLOGY

decorated hybrid

VIBRAM

multicolour rainyboots

pattern matching sneakers on heel


APLASA

SCHMID ITALY

MELISSA

pattern matching sneakers

MASTROTTO CONCERIA

SCHMID ITALY

SCHMID ITALY

funny hybrid man

CERTALDESE

SCHMID ITALY

funny hybrid man

VIBRAM

graphic sneakers

VIBRAM

VIBRAM

DIMAR CONCERIA

multicolor sneakers

1
1

TESSITURA ATTILIO IMPERIALI

patterns

2
2

C.FT. CRESPI FILITESSUTI

MELISSA

decor on maxi volume

SEGRE & SCHIEPPATI

CERTALDESE

SCHMID ITALY

graphic unisex

rock the grunge

asian flow

mash-up

american

the gourmet

American Asian Flow

STREET FASHION - LONDON

STREET FASHION - MILAN

METROPOLITAN
DAILY WEAR
Pragmatic + Practical
Tailor + Innovative

Contemporary Casually Cool


Looks
Downtown Style
Functional + Innovative
Androgynous + Globalism

Edgy Masculinity
Kinetic Wear

PANTONE 19-0915 TPX

PANTONE 18-0201TPX

PANTONE 19-4010 TPX

PANTONE 18-3949 TPX

PANTONE 16-1364 TPX

PANTONE 12-4306 TPX

PANTONE 19-1250 TPX

American
Asian Flow

PANTONE 19-0915 TPX

PANTONE 18-0201TPX

Concept

New metropolitan daywear has an American/Asian

feel. The

leader is Alexander Wang, followed by Thakoon Panichgul,


Prabal Gurung, Phillip Lim and Derek Lam. This style falls into the
market segment called contemporary. Its

PANTONE 19-4010 TPX

functional, smart,

technological, androgynous. The new Asian creators who


have grown up in the US dictate fresh rules in American and European
dress. They design pragmatic products of excellent quality/price ratio,
starting from models proven on the market which they elaborate with
innovative details.

Colours

Salable and primary tones. Matt black, shiny burgundy,


mirrored petrol blue, bitter chocolate, steel blue, dry sand beige, mink
brown, orange tan. Full and bold colours.
PANTONE 18-3949 TPX

Materials

Synthetics, innovative, high performance,


futuristic, substantial. Thick but lightweight.
Bonded and double-face. Punching together with nylon and nappa.
Brushed leather and crisp nylon. Skins and synthetics characterized
by finishes of perfect precision.

PANTONE 16-1364 TPX

PANTONE 12-4306 TPX

PANTONE 19-1250 TPX

PANTONE and PANTONE Textile COLOUR SystemTM are trademarks of PANTONE,


Inc. Pantone LLC 1984, 2013
The PANTONE Reference Numbers shown herein represent the PANTONE
COLOURs most close to the COLOURs displayed. COLOUR reproduction may not
match PANTONE-identified textile solid COLOUR standard.
Consult the current PANTONE Textile COLOUR System Publications for accurate
COLOUR standards

concept
Metropolitan daywear
A new approach to urban sportswear opens
the contemporary market, launched by a new
generation of Asian designers born in the US.
Big international department stores are convinced
enough to open up areas dedicated to this
contemporary style. Metropolitan daily wear
is functional, smart and unisex. Models tried
out online, featuring innovative hi-tech details,
popular colours and sharp lines, prove that the
new urban style is in line with global taste.

BACKGAMMON 3600-M by DEUCE

DESIGN MIAMI 2012

VITTORIO BRUMOTTI for CITY TIME

MIAMI ART BASEL 2012

AL e RO DESIGN

AL e RO DESIGN

LONDON GHERKIN by NORMAN FOSTER

8 TIES PROJECT by HERMS

moodboard
metropolitan daily wear
pragmatic + practical
functional + innovative
androgynous + global
high tech + smart
casually cool + sportswear
edgy masculinity
digital wear + active

shoes-women:
Honeycomb
structures +
geometric tracery

bags-women:
Travel functionality.
Rigorous and
clean. Supple
nappa and matt
syntethic

shoes-men:

steel + leather
+ rubber

bags-men:

compact and flexible


protection

Accessories: pointed and metallic color

Leather: double

aspect, inside/outside

Heels:
transparencies
and overlays

textile/synthetics:
disassembling
and reassembling

MORO MINUTERIE

VALTER

C.D.C.

MELISSA

LARTIGIANABOTTONI

MENONI

LANZI NASTRIFICIO

VALTER

LARTIGIANABOTTONI

AMBROSETTI

E.M. COMPANY

MORO MINUTERIE

accessories

OFFICINA DELLE PELLI

M.P.G. CUOIFICIO

CERTALDESE

CHIORINO TECHNOLOGY

DIMAR CONCERIA

DIMAR CONCERIA

MASTROTTO CONCERIA

CHIORINO TECHNOLOGY

DIMAR CONCERIA

CHIORINO TECHNOLOGY

CHIORINO TECHNOLOGY

CHIORINO TECHNOLOGY

leather

VIBRAM

VIBRAM

VIBRAM

APLASA

APLASA

LUCIANI LAB

soles

SCHMID ITALY

SCHMID ITALY

ASOLTEX

SCHMID ITALY

SCHMID ITALY

SCHMID ITALY

ASOLTEX

SEGRE & SCHIEPPATI

ASOLTEX

textile/synthetics

consumer
profile

WHERE THEY LIVE

Hong Kong Cosbay Bay. Contemporary landscape


New York
Kuala Lumpur
Singapore
Seoul
Paris
Shanghai
Los Angeles
Chicago

Les Halles Paris. Huge investments in design

They live in cities that develop vertically where


futuristic architecture lays the foundations for
new contemporary daily wear.
Technological and functional

New York Hearst Building.


Technological renewal

Shanghai

FREE TIME

The Art of Packing


They love to travel and possess functional and practical items
They love technological watches, and are avid enthusiasts.
They visit exhibitions such as Shanghai Glamour at MOCA in NY
- The Art of Packing. Tutorial video by Louis Vuitton
on the art of packing a suitcase
- Tours that include the Architecture of Shanghai
- Project by Zaha Hadid for Milan. Example of the
city of the future
- The Blue Man Show from Las Vegas: they are
attracted to performances and shows where technology
creates surprising and entertaining moments
- House of the Senses, Milan Design Week 2013.
Sensorial Video Installation

Travel bags and


objects that are
contemporary
and functional

The Blue Man Show


Project for Milano by Zaha Hadid

House of the Senses

OPINION LEADERS

Andy Lau
New Asian celebrities on the international
scene Asian-American designers
- Style Bubble stylebubble.typad.com
Famous Eastern blogger
- Alexander Wang Alexanderwang.com
- Takhoon Takhoon.com
- Phillip Lim 31philliplim.com
- Chen Daoming, Chinese actor and icon
- Andy Lau, Chinese actor and singer
- Wang Shu, Chinese architect winner of
the Prtzker Architecture Prize

Phillip Lim

Chen Daoming
Style Bubble

Wang Shu

Alexander Wang
Takhoon

retail

Apple Store Beijing

Reel Shanghai

Flagship stores and malls with futuristic


architecture, these are their favourite places for
experiencing the contemporary product
Shopping with augmented reality, interactive
touch-screen videos, magic mirrors like those in
the Diesel flagship store of Milan.
Barneys New York is the first department store to
dedicate one whole floor to contemporary style.
Selfridges and La Rinascente are specialising in
contemporary brands.

Iconic stores:

Taikoo Hui Guanzhou

- Browns in London
- Colette in Paris
- Biffi in Milan
- Joyce in HK
- Siam Paragon in Bangkok

K11 Mall
K11 Mall, Shanghai 2013. The first mall where
contemporary art and shops alternate

E-commerce list:
- Gilt
- Net a Porter
- Hyperbeast
- Lanecrawford e-commerce

Interactive E-commerce
- Website of the Victoria Beckham brand. The
site is full of videos and interactive contents
- Louis Vuitton is very active on the Sina Weibo
Chinese social network. Sharing exclusive
contents with the community
- Biffi Milano e-commerce
- Selfridges e-commerce

Social networks: dynamic and interactive social networks


Spotify: social network dedicated to music. Online it is
possible to share and listen.
Sina Weiboo: chinese microblogging website. More than
300 million users. Recently they have started a mainstream
advertising campaign for big fashion brands
Weixin: vocal Instant message service directly controlled
from smartphones.
Shake: social network where its possible to send messages
and emoticons as vibrations and sounds.
WeilingDi: instant message service mainly used by people
working in the web world
O.Cn: 3D interactive social network where it is possible to
visualize major chinese cities and visiting them virtually

Websites:
Hypebeast.com
Designhotel.com
Anothermag.com
Dazedigital.com
Tablethotel.com

Crowdsourcing: fundraising creative ideas and new online partners


Kickstarter.com & Indiegogo.com: global fundraising sites. The
user proposes a project and the budget needed to finance it, and
donations are made online.
Stylyt: platform for collecting fashion designs and offers. Financed
and used by major brands to find new ideas and influence consumers
Stitch Collective: brand of American bags that launches a design
contest. Anyone can register and enter their designs online.
The designs most voted on the site and on Twitter are then produced.

website & social

actual stores are for learning about and seeing


the product
Showrooming phenomenon: the
consumer tries on the product in the store and
then buys it online
Web platforms that also have 3D experience

web retail

E-commerce sites are for buying, while the

WHAT THEY LOVE

Lamborghini Egoista

What they love:


They love design and technological
objects with innovative features.
Especially special editions.

auto

Range Rover Evoque

- 500 by Gucci
- Lamborghini egoista
- Range Rover

watches
- Rado
- Tag heuer
- Richard mille
Technological and Minimal
3D Design
Sport Contamination

Nike Lunar

Xiao Zi Yang jewels

Contemporary Moroso Design

Massimo Iosa Ghini

WHAT THEY LOVE

3D Design Studio

- Car design and fashion collaborations


- Lamborghini 50th anniversary collection
- Lamborghini Capsule Car Shoe Collection

50 Lamborghini
Car Shoe for Lamborghini

music

Ellen Allien

Contemporary
electronic music

Royksopp,
Norwegian
electronic group

brands
Commerciali

Luxury

collection
planning
Unisex
Contemporary and Metropolitan look
Functional and Innovative

EMPORIO ARMANI

ANTONIO MARRAS

shoes

Trend positioning according to the outsole


Metropolitan theme, young and very cool

The functionality of the metropolitan use mainly comes from strong and sturdy

rubber soles, for both men and women. It is a theme dominated by hybrid
products. An extremely androgynous theme, which can also be seen in the
womens dressy shoes with voluminous and important shapes,

sturdy and comfortable heels and solid soles.

For women, ergonomic rubber soles combined with leather

uppers for a minimal look and geometric cuts. The sports world
includes minimal and designer sneakers dominated by black and white, as
well as multi-coloured graphics reinterpreted with technical

women

materials and optical effects.

ANTONIO MARRAS

HYBRID

men

SNEAKERS

KRIS VAN ASSCHE

ISSEY MIYAKE

KENNETH COLE

DRESSY

KENNETH COLE

KENNETH COLE

KENNETH COLE

3.1 PHILLIP LIM

KENNETH COLE

COSTUME NATIONAL

JIL SANDER

JENA.THEO

catwalk products - iconic brands

dressy: bold boots

dressy: booties

catwalk products - iconic brands

CAMPER

FLY LONDON

OXS

ANTONIO MARRAS

STREET FASHION - LONDON

products from windows - exhibitions - people

PINKO

hybrid woman

VIC MATIE

VIC

Y-3

DIOR
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
ISSEY MIYAKE

products from exhibitions - catwalk products - iconic brands

ISSEY MIYAKE

hybrid man: low cut

ISSEY MIYAKE

catwalk products - iconic brands

CAMPER

VOILE BLANCHE

hybrid man: mid cut

catwalk products - iconic brands

ONITSUKA TIGER

KRIS VAN ASSCHE

KRIS VAN ASSCHE

KRIS VAN ASSCHE

man leather sneakers

unisex: rainy boots

HUNTER

TATOOSH

products from exhibitions

YELLOW CAB

HUNTER

man graphic sneakers

products from exhibitions - people - iconic brands

MOMO DESIGN

EASTPAK

STREET FASHION - NEW YORK

STREET FASHION - NEW YORK


STREET FASHION - NEW YORK

STREET FASHION - MILAN

ADIDAS SLVR

PIRELLI PZERO

bags

Trend positioning according to material


Unisex and metropolitan use for the world of bags:
On the one hand, strong leather with geometric constructions
and one-colour approach, unisex, formal but cool.
On the other hand, use of more casual/innovative materials and more
economical materials with a daring touch of contrasting colours.

Rigid structures and geometric cuts featuring large volumes that


have been made minimal by a clean and simple approach and by the one-colour
approach in the world of leather/fake leather.
The BACKPACK plays a fundamental role in both one-colour leather and

women

innovative materials with a hi-tech look.

MOLESKINE

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

textile /new
materials

men

mix

ISSEY MIYAKE

GUCCI

leather

WOOYOUNGMI

DAMIR DOMA
FRANKIE MORELLO

backpack high tech /metropolitan unisex

EMPORIO ARMANI

catwalk products - iconic brands

catwalk products - iconic brands

leather: clean,one colour

JIL SANDER

ALEXANDER WANG

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

GENNY MODA

leather: geometric shapes

products from exhibitions - windows - people

PRADA

MANDARINA DUCK

MOLESKINE

TORY BURCH

leather: clean,one colour - unisex

GUCCI

MARNI

FENDI

KRIS VAN ASSCHE

catwalk products - iconic brands

metropolitan unisex

products from exhibitions - people

PORTER

MH WAY

YS MANDARINA DUCK

MANDARINA DUCK

SKETCHES

SCHMID ITALY

1
1

1
1

CHIORINO TECHNOLOGY

CHIORINO TECHNOLOGY

bold dressy

heel hybrid woman


aplasa
1

VIBRAM

VIBRAM

CHIORINO TECHNOLOGY

MASTROTTO CONCERIA

dressy boots

ASOLTEX

dressy boots

OFFICINA DELLE PELLI

MENONI

VIBRAM

1
2

SEGRE & SCHIEPPATI

flatform hybrid woman

APLASA

CHIORINO TECHNOLOGY

DIMAR CONCERIA

formal hybrid

CHIORINO TECHNOLOGY

E.M. COMPANY

CHIORINO TECHNOLOGY
2

DIMAR CONCERIA

contemporary hybrid man

CERTALDESE

DIMAR CONCERIA

fashion hybrid man

VIBRAM

ASOLTEX

1
2

VIBRAM

SCHMID ITALY

CHIORINO TECHNOLOGY

fashion hybrid man

OFFICINA DELLE PELLI

MASTROTTO CONCERIA

CHIORINO TECHNOLOGY

leather sneakers

1
1

DIMAR CONCERIA

CHIORINO TECHNOLOGY

1
2

MASTROTTO CONCERIA

man graphic sneakers


VIBRAM

ASOLTEX

ASOLTEX

DIMAR CONCERIA

DIMAR CONCERIA

man graphic sneakers


2

1
1

VIBRAM

CHIORINO TECHNOLOGY

high tech backpack / metropolitan use

MASTROTTO CONCERIA

MORO MINUTERIE

leather geometric shapes

leather geometric shapes

CHIORINO TECHNOLOGY

1
1

CHIORINO TECHNOLOGY

leather: clean - unisex

rock the grunge

asian flow

mash-up

american

the gourmet

Rock the grunge

STREET FASHION - paris

STREET FASHION - paris

Chaos To
Couture

Subversive +
Classic English

Socialite
+ SOCIABLE

Minimal + Rock
Anarchy + Elegance

Minimal Rock + Californian Grunge


Austerity mixed to Perversion

Rigour and Confidence


Wild and Severe

PANTONE 19-1101 TPX

PANTONE 18-4120 TPX

PANTONE 17-4405 TPX

PANTONE 18-0201 TPX

PANTONE 19-6311 TPX

PANTONE 18-0627 TPX

PANTONE 18-1555 TPX

PANTONE 19-1101 TPX

Rock the grunge


Concept

wild and
rebellious grunge with the minimalism of
English classics.

The new rock is subversive because it combines

PANTONE 18-4120 TPX

A style direction taken by the new generation of designers led by Hedi


Slimane, Raf Simons, Givenchy, Balmain. Starting from typical icons of the
English rock world, strict and minimal, the

new rock becomes


elegant and classical, austere and severe.

Colours
PANTONE 17-4405 TPX

Tar black is rock. Leather brown is grunge, bloodred English, psychedelic blue is rock. Tones darken in
all the colour palettes, taking on mirror, reflective, polished, velvety,
shaded effects.

Materials

The rock+grunge+minimal+English classic ingredients are expressed

PANTONE 18-0201 TPX

in a mixture of leather treatments: destroyed +


brushed + patent, craquelet + filled + pony, shaved + waxed laser processes. Perforated effects on thin rigid hide. Fluid nappa.
Crocodile of raised scales. Rock version fish skin. Brushed, varnished
and reflective in tones and the consistency of tar. Worn and torn
effects. Crusts moulded with dry wax and powdery shades.

PANTONE 19-6311 TPX

PANTONE 18-0627 TPX

PANTONE 18-1555 TPX


PANTONE and PANTONE Textile COLOUR SystemTM are trademarks of PANTONE,
Inc. Pantone LLC 1984, 2013
The PANTONE Reference Numbers shown herein represent the PANTONE
COLOURs most close to the COLOURs displayed. COLOUR reproduction may not
match PANTONE-identified textile solid COLOUR standard.
Consult the current PANTONE Textile COLOUR System Publications for accurate
COLOUR standards

concept
Elegance and Rock
Rock has always been outside the box, turning high
street concepts of classic and trendyconcepts
on their head, using easy elements. Models in
a rock spirit can change the rules of styles and
circumstances: simple and nonconformist, classical
and wild, in dressy versions. Casuals become
formal classics, even like biker boots for Him and
Her. Elegant models interpreted in rough workwear
materials and details. A revolution in the big French
luxury brands, California version, that international
buyers are going for.
Modern rebels of understated elegance.

DAVID BOWIE EXHIBITION - V&A LONDON

FLORIPA CLUB

MOODBOARD
minimal + rock
anarchy + elegance
subversive + classic english
minimal rock + californian grunge
socialite + extrovert
rigour + confidence

shoes-women:

strong contrasts,
aggressive
appearance,
very soft hand,
dry touch

bags-women:

rigid and polished,


satin and buffed

shoes-men:

classic granes leather,


aggressive brushoff

bags-men:

worn look adopts a


sophisticated taste,
with decor prints
and soft touch

Leather: laser
cuts decorations,
deformed
geometries,
interrupted
perpendicular
and radial stripes

Leather: animal coats

patterns, worn and used


look with wide granes

Heels: all
natural aspect
of wood,
imperfect and
unespected
wild look

textile/synthetics:
knitwear patterns
borrowed from
home textile and
country lifestyle

MORO MINUTERIE

E.M. COMPANY

C.D.C.

LANZI NASTRIFICIO

E.M. COMPANY

VALTER

MELISSA

MELISSA

LARTIGIANABOTTONI

AMBROSETTI

MENONI

LARTIGIANABOTTONI

accessories

MONTI & MONTI

PI & PI CONCERIA

CERTALDESE

ITALIANA ACCESSORI

FINISHING KENDA FARBEN

M.P.G. CUOIFICIO

CHIORINO TECHNOLOGY

OFFICINA DELLE PELLI

CERTALDESE

DIMAR CONCERIA

ESOTICA

MASTROTTO CONCERIA

leather

VIBRAM

VIBRAM

FINISHING by KENDA FARBEN - SOLE CUOIO DI TOSCANA

DAVOS

FINISHING by KENDA FARBEN - SOLE CUOIO DI TOSCANA

DAVOS

soles

SCHMID ITALY

SCHMID ITALY

C.FT. CRESPI FILITESSUTI

SCHMID ITALY

SCHMID ITALY

TESSITURA ATTILIO IMPERIALI

TESSITURA ATTILIO IMPERIALI

textile/synthetics

consumer
profile

Bansky
graffiti in
Brick Lane,
London

WHERE THEY LIVE

Brick Lane, London


Chelsea, New York
Seattle
Friedrichshain, Berlin
Moscow
Beijing 798
Beirut
Amsterdam
Dublin
Venice Beach, Los Angeles
Xiamen

798 artistic space


in Beijing, famous
for unconventional
exhibitions

Friedrichshain, Berlin.
Post-industrial graffiti art

They live in cities that


are very free, with a
rebellious spirit.
Modern and alternative.
Classic and subversive.
Vintage and rock

CBGB

Psy

FREE TIME

David Bowie
Rock exhibitions and events
Punk Stories, video edited by US Vogue
They love the world of music, stylish and alternative
clubs. They follow classic rock idols
Chaos to Couture: an exhibition that celebrates
the English punk style with photographic archives
and collections by famous designers. An exhibition
that caused a sensation. At the Metropolitan
Museum of New York
David Bowie: At the V&A in London, a retrospective
of the master of transformation, a rock icon
Clubs and bars that have made the history of rock
Alternative clubs in bohemian districts
Crobar Camden London. Best club to listen to
heavy metal
Bar Psy Tokyo. Club dedicated to rock and punk music
CBGBs in Chelsea New York. A temple of rock music

Crobar
Chaos to Couture

retail
Humana
- Humana, second-hand
shop in Friedrichshain, Berlin.
Mix of elements
- Buffalo Exchange, New
York. Famous rock clothing store
- D Park Beijing House.
A concept store situated on the
grounds of a former power plant
in Beijing.

D Park Beijing House


Thrift stores
Concept stores with postindustrial settings
Alternative libraries such as
Eslite in Taiwan
Alternative environments, such
as industrial warehouses, car
parks, underground rooms
in the streets of city suburbs.
Music and visual displays are
always united.

Buffalo Exchange

OPINION LEADERS

Hedi Slimane.
Creative
Director at Saint
Laurent Paris

Marilyn Manson.
Transgressive rock icon
Courtney Love.
Grunge icon

Peter Marino.
Controversial
designer
David Bowie

Jay Chou

Qin Hai Lu

Jay Chou: taiwanese father

of Chinese hip-hop

Rock icons who marked the


beginning of the rebel culture.

Patti Smith

Lou Reed

Keith Richards

Slash (Guns n Roses)

OPINION LEADERS from Asia

and successful Chinese


actress and blogger

OPINION LEADERS icone del rock

Qin Hai Lu: famous

WHAT THEY LOVE


Viva Rock.
John Richmond

Mustang

Ducati Monster
Fast cars and sports cars
Heavy motorcycles
Strong perfumes

cars & motorcycles:


- Corvette
- Mustang
- Ducati Monster

perfumes:
- Viva Rock John Richmond
- Rock n Rose Valentino
Unconventional jewellery
Aged and alternative design

jewellery & accessories


- Nick Von K
- Aod

Websites:
E-commerce sites that sell rock and punk clothing
Rock music blogs

Hedislimane.com/rockdiary: a series of portraits of the

website & social

biggest rock star rebels


Byronesque.com: online magazine that talks about the
worlds of rock and fashion
Rockmode.com: blog dedicated to news on rock and
punk styles
Grindstore.com: e-commerce dedicated to the sale of
CDs, gadgets and rock clothing
Metalheads.clothing-underground.com: website with
forums offering advice on the best rock-style brands

music

Muse

Rock music with electronic influences


German metal and industrial music
Contemporary electronic music

Daft Punk

- The Ting Tings: band that


combines electronic sounds with a
rock base
- Daft Punk: new icons by Hedi
Slimane
- Muse, English contemporary rock
band
- Rammstein: leader of German
industrial metal music, known for its
strong and aggressive sounds
- The Killers: simple sounds with
great guitar effects. Protest lyrics

The Killers

Rammstein

The Ting Tings band

brands
Commerciali

Luxury

collection
planning
Minimal Rock
Elegant
Anarchy

JOHN RICHMOND

ETRO

shoes

Trend positioning according to the outsole


Rock interpreted in a minimal, sophisticated and elegant way.
The world of footwear is dominated by dressy products for both men and women.
For women: stiletto heels on a shoe that is both aggressive and minimal,

elongated toes and metallic elements embellish the essential cuts for a more
eye-catching product. Ankle and high boots with a single denominator, streamlined and
tight-fitting shapes for a sexy look and metallic elements that catch the attention
and create a more contemporary decor.
For men: English classic meets rock, mixing classic shapes and iconic models such as

women

military boots, chelseas, oxfords, moccasins with rock colours and details.

YVES SAINT LAURENT

DRESSY

HYBRID

men

SNEAKERS

ETRO

DIESEL
MOSCHINO

stilettos killer

BLUMARINE

ETRO

NARCISO RODRIGUEZ

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

catwalk products - iconic brands

minimal/elegant rock

VERSACE

SPORTMAX

VERSACE

PROENZA SCHOULER

catwalk products - iconic brands

products from exhibitions

SAM EDELMAN

UNITED NUDE LTD

UNITED NUDE LTD

DAINO SHOES

JO NO FUI

VERSACE

VERSACE

metal & fur

HERVE LEGER

catwalk products - iconic brands

VERSACE

metal

products from exhibitions - catwalk products

flat rock

EMPORIO ARMANI

GABRIELE COLANGELO

ZERO E MARIA CORNEJO

ZERO E MARIA CORNEJO

catwalk products - iconic brands

ankle & clean pointed booties

CHANEL

TIM KIMUR

TRUSSARDI

SCHUTZ

catwalk products - iconic brands

MISSONI
BELSTAFF

CHANEL

HELMUT LANG

pointed high boots

military boots tight fitting

YVES SAINT LAURENT

HELMUT LANG

YVES SAINT LAURENT

catwalk products - iconic brands

ISABELLA ZOBOLI

PALLADIUM

MOSCHINO

JOHN RICHMOND

catwalk products - iconic brands

heavy boots

ART COMES FIRST PITTI IMMAGINE FLORENCE

COSTUME NATIONAL

GUIDI

CARVEN

products from fairs exhibitions - catwalk products - iconic brands

MOSCHINO

laced up

BURBERRY

catwalk products - iconic brands

PHILIPP PLEIN

pointed low lace: derby, oxford

chelsea pointed boot

VALENTINO

ICEBERG

COSTUME NATIONAL

DIESEL

3.1 PHILLIP LIM

DIESEL

catwalk products - exhibitions products

VALENTINO

Leather dominates, preferably in black, with metallic iconic rock details.


Therefore, clean lines, padding with seams and large contrasting
metallic zips inspired by biker jackets.

women

bags

Trend positioning according to material

RALPH LAUREN

mix

leather

men

textile /new
materials

JOHN RICHMOND

CHANEL

CHANEL

PROENZA SCHOULER

SPORTMAX

catwalk products - iconic brands

ROCCOBAROCCO

JOHN RICHMOND

JOHN RICHMOND

catwalk products - iconic brands

pochette/clutch

minimal men

BYBLOS

RALPH LAUREN
GUCCI

catwalk products - iconic brands

GIANFRANCO FERRE

metal: zip/chain

SKETCHES

stilettos killers

MELISSA

E.M. COMPANY

E.M. COMPANY

ESOTICA

stilettos killers

LARTIGIANABOTTONI

DIMAR CONCERIA

C.FT. CRESPI FILITESSUTI

minimal / elegant rock


1

ITALIANA ACCESSORI

MASTROTTO CONCERIA

metal

1
1

C.D.C.

1
1

C.D.C.

metal

MONTI & MONTI

MASTROTTO CONCERIA

metal & fur

CHIORINO TECHNOLOGY

MASTROTTO CONCERIA

fashion fur

OFFICINA DELLE PELLI

ESOTICA

SCHMID ITALY

MONTI & MONTI

flat rock
1

MELISSA

1
1

LANZI NASTRIFICIO

ankle & clean pointed booties

DIMAR CONCERIA

SCHMID ITALY

tight fitting

DIMAR CONCERIA

MONTI & MONTI

pointed high boots

PI & PI CONCERIA

pointed high boots

MASTROTTO CONCERIA

ATTILIO IMPERIALI TESSITURA

chelsea pointed boots

VIBRAM

CHIORINO TECHNOLOGY

OFFICINA DELLE PELLI

MONTI & MONTI

MONTI & MONTI

pointed low lace


1

ATTILIO IMPERIALI TESSITURA

heavy boots

vibram

vibram

M.P.G. CUOIFICIO

TESSITURA ATTILIO IMPERIALI

pochette / clutch

metal: zip / chain

C.D.C.

ATTILIO IMPERIALI

zip / chain man

rock the grunge

asian flow

mash-up

american

the gourmet

The gourmet

STREET FASHION - MILAN

STREET FASHION - MILAN

Classic + City
+ Country

ICONS OF CLASSIC
+ Made In

DECONSTRUCTED
+ RELAXED

Bohemien + Hypster
Connosseur + Character

Innovative + Old Taste


Wilderness + Savoir Faire

Comfort Travel
Pleasure

PANTONE 18-1048 TPX

PANTONE 19-1656 TPX

PANTONE 18-3945 TPX

PANTONE 18-1250 TPX

PANTONE 16-1450 TPX

PANTONE 16-1150 TPX

PANTONE 16-1142 TPX

PANTONE 16-0730 TPX

PANTONE 18-1048 TPX

The gourmet
Concept

PANTONE 19-1656 TPX

A gourmet, as we know, is a person of cultivated tastes who


demands the enjoyment of good food and drink. The gourmet of fashion,
like that of food, is a connoisseur, a person who has the foundation of
classical style, then carried through to Italian country and English heritage.
As for food, the passion for accessories is defined by a search for

tastes and flavours that are intense, sharp, full


bodied. A lifestyle that combines a passion for the authentic, genuine,

typical of a place or a style.


PANTONE 18-3945 TPX

Colours

The chromatic effects form a range of browns, fresh and


new. These can verge on red, burnt orange, indigo blue, military
green, woodland earth and bark of scented trees. The shades can vary
according to dyes and treatments of full bodied leathers.

PANTONE 18-1250 TPX

PANTONE 16-1450 TPX

Materials

Real leather, authentic and genuine, on which to try out


experimental treatments and invent new finishes, chromatic
effects and grains. Craftsmanship and industry meet in the
natural world to experiment with shaving, abrasion, creams and waxes
of new generation but of organic origin. Brushed, crackled, distressed.
Shaved and polished pony. Precious reptiles. Anaconda and alligator
treated with softening oils and waxes. Thick and luminous velvets. Wool,
cashmere and Shetland materials. Colour-dipped crust.

PANTONE 16-1150 TPX

PANTONE 16-1142 TPX

PANTONE 16-0730 TPX

PANTONE and PANTONE Textile COLOUR SystemTM are trademarks of PANTONE,


Inc. Pantone LLC 1984, 2013
The PANTONE Reference Numbers shown herein represent the PANTONE
COLOURs most close to the COLOURs displayed. COLOUR reproduction may not
match PANTONE-identified textile solid COLOUR standard.
Consult the current PANTONE Textile COLOUR System Publications for accurate
COLOUR standards

concept
Pleasure of authenticity
Its about the pleasure of buying a wellmade product with timeless design, listen to
storytelling, enjoy the taste as a food, being
able to recognize quality, repairing and properly
caring for your wardrobe.
A market segment in enormous expansion
with consumers looking for something special
that offers ancient flavours in a modern key.
Between casual and classic, outdoor and
vintage, country and comfy travel. Natural and
handmade. Discovering the authenticity of
Made in...Italy, USA, China, Thailand....
Extravagance and decor in Pop style

LF UNISEX MOOD

TOPSHOP WINDOWS - LONDON

COMPLICITA STATICHE by STEFANO CONTICELLI

moodboard
bohemien + hypster
connosseur + character
classic + city + country
deconstructed + relaxed
icons of classic + made in
comfort travel + pleasure

shoes-women:

aristocratic feeling,
laser cuts decor,
trimmings, velvet
and leather carving

bags-women:

uncontrived
combination
of naturalness
and rigour,
soft supple and
drum dyed
leather

shoes-men:

a pleasent
balance of refined
leather, precious
reptiles and
sublime skins

bags-men: soft calf

and dusty surfaces,


sophisticated worn look

Accessories: craft

abilities borrowed from


horsemanship tradition, from
Argentina to Great Britain

Leather: alligator

imitation, exotic
reptiles, wood bark
and old furniture

Heels and
soles:
stripes and
geometries,
stitchings and
inlays

textile/
synthetics:
damask and
brocade, coated
synthetics with
pleating, prints
and laser cuts

VALTER

MENONI

VALTER

LARTIGIANABOTTONI

MORO MINUTERIE

LARTIGIANABOTTONI
C.D.C.

E.M. COMPANY

MELISSA

AMBROSETTI

CERTALDESE

E.M. COMPANY

accessories

FINISHING KENDA FARBEN

PI & PI CONCERIA

ESOTICA

ESOTICA

MONTI & MONTI

M.P.G. CUOIFICIO

CHIORINO TECHNOLOGY

CHIORINO TECHNOLOGY

CERTALDESE

DIMAR CONCERIA

MASTROTTO CONCERIA

DIMAR CONCERIA

leather

VIBRAM

VIBRAM

FINISHING by KENDA FARBEN - SOLE CUOIO DI TOSCANA


DAVOS

FINISHING by KENDA FARBEN - SOLE CUOIO DI TOSCANA

DAVOS

soles

TESSITURA ATTILIO IMPERIALI

C.FT. CRESPI FILITESSUTI

TESSITURA ATTILIO IMPERIALI

TESSITURA ATTILIO IMPERIALI

ASOLTEX

C.FT. CRESPI FILITESSUTI

ASOLTEX

textile/synthetics

consumer
profile

WHERE THEY LIVE

Milan, Arco della Pace, vintage photo with tram

Paris happening, social moments

Milan. Appetizers in
Navigli. Eating cheap
and genuine food

Milan: Navigli, Corso Garibaldi


Turin
Rome
Paris: Marais
Tokyo: Ebisu
Copenhagen
They live in Europe or Japan;
they are consumers of the
good, beautiful and tasteful.
They love stories relating to the
old quarters of the city.

Paris, the
Marais quarter

FREE TIME

8 Ties Herms project

8 Ties Herms project. Video

installation by Miguel Chevallier. New


graphic patterns for ties. Presented in
Milan and Mexico City

Open Factories 2013

Open Factories 2013.

Exhibitions of industrial archaeology


in Piedmont, in discovery of Italian
craftsmanship and industry

A taste of China.

Contemporary heritage furniture.


Milan Design Week 2013

Rong made in Hanghzhou

Rong Made in Hanghzhou

A taste of China

Exhibition of 13 designers who reinterpret bamboo. First


exhibition of a series that will last 5 years. A material for each
year. 2013 is the year of the bamboo. At the Milan Triennale

FREE TIME

Events where

art form

Franciacorta Wine Festival,


Piedmont, Italy

Cracco and Oldani, two cooking


stars who prepare good cheap food.
Professional Food Event

Jazz Brunch Wynn Resort


Las Vegas.
Music and food
for brunch

food becomes a new

- Artisans of flavours mixed with a


contemporary taste
- Food festivals and events open to the public
- Food is like clothes, gadgets, shoes and
leather goods
- Look for old-fashioned flavours, authentic,
with an intense character
- Eataly, good food supermarket in two
locations: Turin and New York
- Expo Days in Milan, first tranche of events
dedicated to Italian food
- Milan Food Week
- Cruise of Taste by Silversea, a cooking
school with excellent Italian culinary specialities
- Food tasting street events
- Vintage Design and Gourmet in Mexico City
- Wine tasting in the best Italian, French and
Argentine wineries

Winery-Sculpture by Arnaldo
Pomodoro in Umbria, Italy

OPINION LEADERS

Chef and Gourmets

Marina Abramovich,
Art Gourmet

Easy Life

retail

Fangsuo Commune, Guanzhou

Biffi Milan
Small shops and stores hidden
in the oldest quarters of the city.
Small multi-brand stores that host
musical, art and literature events.
Confidential Sales, special sales
with discounts at the Fashion
District outlets.
They like places such as Made store
in the Asiatique area in Bangkok

Neighbourhoods where
they shop:
- Palermo Soho, Buenos Aires
- La Roma, Mexico City
- Les Marais, Paris
- Corso Garibaldi, Milan
- Charlotteburg, Berlin
- Notting Hill, London

Matrix Basel Design & Fashion

San Carlo 1930 Turin

WHAT THEY LOVE

Objects with old shapes updated in a modern key


Classic bikes and public transport
Analog cameras
Objects in leather tanned with wine techniques, Piel di Vino, Tuscany
70s sofa

Leica M9 P

Hasselblad
Retro style

bikes:
- Pillen Swedish-style bikes
- Brooks bikes

cameras:
- Hasselblad
- Leica M9 P by Herms

magazines:
- The Heritage Post

Pillen bike

The Heritage Post

WHAT THEY LOVE

Handmade design objects


in genuine leather
Heritage design, European
and Latin American designs
of the 50s and 60s
Chess and checkers
Handmade fabrics
Practical travel bags with a
retro look

Craftica Fendi project

WHAT THEY LOVE

Modern Art of Dessert

food design:
- Genuine food and authentic
flavours
- Food design and artistry
- Jams and products by
Monica Patino, Mexico
- Book Modern Art Dessert
by Caitlin Friedman

Blend caf, Mexico City

Jams by Marta Patino

Vintage Design & Gourmet,


Mexico City

website & social

Website & Social networks:


Cooking sites
Sites offering restaurant tips
Sites on food and wine activities

Museodelgusto.com
A museum of taste, a place to discover the tastes and flavours of
Piedmont

Groupon.com
Site dedicated to discounts on tastings, lunches, dinners and stays
in Italy and abroad

Eataly.com
Food Retail with Italian excellence. Very famous in the United States

Tripadvisor
Social network with reviews of international hotels and restaurants.
The platform also allows making online bookings

Vinix.com
Social network dedicated to wine

Lets Lunch
Site and App dedicated to restaurants to get discounts and tips

music

Classic contemporary music

Giovanni Allevi: young Italian


composer. Mix of different elements
with sophisticated musicality
Ludovico Einaudi: modern pianist
who combines classic melodies with
artificial sounds

Giovanni AllevI

BLOGS

Foodblogging:

DeliciousDays
Blog created in Munich
by an Italian, which is
dedicated to food recipes
and events in German and
the world

Ms. Adventures in Italy


Blog dedicated to an
American girls cooking
travels, especially in Italy

Alegria in Mexico
Blog by Ruth Alegria, chef
who organises food tours in
Mexico

Red Cook
Blog dedicated to the art
of homemade Chinese
cooking. The most popular
food blog in the world

Ludovico Einaudi

brands
Commerciali

Luxury

collection
planning
Timeless Design
Innovative Restyling of an old taste

CHLOE

CORNELIANI

shoes

Trend positioning according to the outsole


Timeless design means timeless classics with a modern twist for men and women, for a

contemporary look. Bespoke look and extreme attention to detail in accordance with the
best handcrafted tradition.
For women: sinuous and retro shapes made with quality leather, lots of warm colours

and the use of leather as the dominating material and colour. We are talking about dressy

light platforms and square comfortable heels for everyday use. The latest
trends emerging from the catwalks: uppers completely or partially made of fur or pony.
shoes with

For men: timeless classic models restyled with the use of coloured rubber soles and
handcrafted colour treatments.

women

SNEAKERS: for men and women, which never touch the world of super sports; in particular,
we are talking about a casual and more lifestyle sneaker, which sees the predominant
use of tapered shapes and the finest Italian materials.

CHLOE

EL CAMPERO

BRUNELLO CUCINELLI

HYBRID

DRESSY

men

SNEAKERS

SPERRY TOP SIDER

FRATELLI ROSSETTI

FRYE

catwalk products - products from exibitions

MARNI

SI by SINELA

FENDI

TORY BURCH

ANGELINE LEE

BALLY

fur on shoes

winter: boots

products from exhibitions - iconic brands

EL CAMPERO

AGNES B.

ELISABETTA NERI

EL CAMPERO

dressy: ankle boot - squared heel

CHLOE

dressy: decorations/rich materials

DONNA KARAN

DKNY

catwalk products - iconic brands

RAG & BONE

BOTTEGA VENETA

CHRISTOPHER KANE

TORY BURCH

catwalk products - iconic brands

APOLOGIE

FRANCOIS NAJAR

TOMMY HILFIGER

BRUNELLO CUCINELLI

HOGAN

womans sneakers

MARC by MARC JACOBS

ROBERT CLERGERIE

products from exhibitions - catwalk products - iconic brands

MARNI

dressy: restyling of retr

products from windows - exhibitions

DIADORA

GRITTI

CHURCHS

dressy man: iconic classic

CHURCHS

BOTTEGA VENETA

CHURCHS

products from windows - exhibitions - catwalks

FRATELLI ROSSETTI

products from windows - exhibitions

NORTHERN : COBBLER

SMITHS AMERICAN

HUDSON

the new classic

new hybrid

products from exhibitions

FRATELLI ROSSETTI

DUCAL

FINALE UNLIMITED

classic hybrid

MORESCHI

TBS

FRATELLI ROSSETTI

products from exhibitions

LACOSTE

LACOSTE

new classic: colore con


tecniche artigianali

BALLY

FRYE

italian last man sneaker

HOGAN

products from windows - exhibitions

MAURO VOLPONI

SPERRY TOP SIDER

hand coloured

GIORGIO ARMANI

GIORGIO ARMANI

products from windows - exhibitions - catwalk products - iconic brands

DIADORA

Precious bags: leather, fur or fabric


The classic of classics: Bugatti for men and women. Bauletto,
saddle, backpack, briefcase, clutch. Small shoulder bags.
Precious bags made of high-quality leather, fur, applications.

women

bags

Trend positioning according to material

MARC BY MARC JACOBS

mix

leather

men

textile /new
materials

DEREK LAM

TRUSSARDI

CORNELIANI

MARNI

retr classic shapes


ASPINAL OF LONDON

MARC BY MARC JACOBS

catwalk products - windows

LONGOBARDI prod. and distr. by


car.lo manifatture

fur on bags

EMILIO PUCCI
FENDI

BLUGIRL
EMPORIO ARMANI

BLUGIRL

catwalk products - iconic brands

catwalk products - iconic brands

TRUSSARDI

TRUSSARDI

CORNELIANI

MISSONI

rich leather man bags

JOST

SKETCHES

CERTALDESE

CHIORINO TECHNOLOGY

ATTILIO IMPERIALI tessitura

dressy: restyling of retr

CHIORINO TECHNOLOGY

ASOLTEX

dressy: decorations / rich materials

CHIORINO TECHNOLOGY

dressy: ankle boots


2

E.M. COMPANY

DIMAR CONCERIA

MASTROTTO CONCERIA

ESOTICA

CHIORINO TECHNOLOGY

ASOLTEX

winter boots

MASTROTTO CONCERIA

MONTI & MONTI

winter boot

ASOLTEX

MELISSA

C.FT. CRESPI FILITESSUTI

womens sneakers

1
1

GRAPHIC DESIGN

DIMAR CONCERIA

dressy: man iconic classic

CHIORINO TECHNOLOGY

2
1

C.FT. CRESPI FILITESSUTI

CHIORINO TECHNOLOGY

ASOLTEX

dressy man:new classic

1
1

MONTI & MONTI

hybrid man

MONTI & MONTI

CHIORINO TECHNOLOGY

hybrid man

DIMAR CONCERIA

MASTROTTO CONCERIA

hand coloured

DIMAR CONCERIA

PI & PI CONCERIA

DIMAR CONCERIA

italian last man sneakers

1
1

MASTROTTO CONCERIA

fur on bags

MASTROTTO CONCERIA

retr classic shapes

M.P.G. CUOIFICIO

rich leather man

DIMAR CONCERIA

rich leather man

Ars Sutoria - Background


The Ars Sutoria magazine was founded in 1947 specifically for footwear manufacturers.
Since its origin, the magazine has been produced inside the publishing offices of the
International Technical Institute for the Footwear Industry to underline the fact that this
publishing experience is rooted in the desire to offer footwear professional contents that
are both creative and highly technical, i.e. never disconnected from the reality of the Italian
manufacturing industry. The first issues of the magazine, which are still available for viewing
at the Milan headquarters, presented footwear ideas, concepts and designs. Our aim is to
recapture this proactive spirit.
Over the years, the Ars Sutoria magazine has become the reference point for learning about
footwear collections, materials and components. The possibility to travel around the world and
the availability of digital information in real time has allowed us to be a strategic observatory
of the most important events and trends in the international fashion world. The rational
observation of these trends allows us to offer expert opinions on what was successful in
international markets during current and past seasons, but also to formulate proposals and
incentives to help operators work on their upcoming collections.

CONTAct Subscription Department


Ars Arpel Group - Via Nievo, 33 - 20145 MILANO (Italy)
T +39 02 31912.331 F +39 02 33 611 619
subscription@arsarpel.com www.arsarpel.com

magazines
Ars Sutoria

Arpel

10 ISSUES PER YEAR

4 ISSUES PER YEAR

1 YEAR

1 YEAR

2 YEARS

2 YEARS

ITALY

300

480

ITALY

150

250

EUROPE
US / CANADA

500

850

EUROPE
US / CANADA

230

380

REST OF THE WORLD

550

950

REST OF THE WORLD

250

420

Shoe Collections

(Julia Classic, Julia Sport, Jolly, Junior)


4 ISSUES PER YEAR, PER TITLE
1 YEAR

2 YEARS

ITALY

200

320

EUROPE
US / CANADA

280

480

REST OF THE WORLD

300

520

INCLUDED IN YOUR SUBSCRIPTION

international delivery
with FedEx
Shipping cost included in the price
Door to door delivery in FedEx box
Tracking and signature proof

Ars Magazines
iPad app
Free app from App Store
Immediate download
All your magazines always at hand

Online access
to your magazines
Multimedia contents
Read your magazine on line
Monthly advise of new issues

Historical archive
Unique source of inspirations for designers of footwear and leathergoods.
More than 65 years of issues are available original magazines or
reprinted copies on demand.
Local consultation upon request.
For further information archive@arsarpel.com

books

Trends Guide
Created by Ars Sutoria Research Team.
Binding book with concepts, key words, colours palette, colour combinations, materials, merchandising plan and design ideas for the development of new footwear and leathergoods collections.
Available for each season, 18 months in advance.

ONE SEASON

500

TWO SEASONS

800

Only Woman
& Only Man

Technical
Dictionary

Over 200 pages of shoes collections


presented for each season on fairs, catwalks, people and windows that we have
selected from our Ars Sutoria magazines.
Hard cover book to keep in your library.
One issue published for Spring Summer
and one for Autumn Winter.

Illustrated dictionary with


each term in five languages
(English, Italian, Spanish,
German and French).

ONE SEASON

150

TWO SEASONS

250

price

120

online
arstrends.com
Best selection of images from most important cities of fashion
Shoes, bags and materials from fairs, windows, people and catwalks
Browse, organize and share images
Contact us arstrends@arstrends.com
1 YEAR

SHOES ACCESS

499

BAGS ACCESS

299

SHOES+BAGS ACCESS

599

*all subscriptions include material section

CONTActs Mrs. Rossella Cucco


T +39 02 31912.327 school@arssutoria.com
www.arssutoria.com

school

FOOTWEAR
13 weeks
PATTERN MAKING AND
TECHNICAL DESIGN
The course covers the following
topics:
a detailed preliminary
explanation of the footwear
manufacturing process
a strong basics of shoe
sketching: both designer and
technicians should develop a
strong sense of proportions
and should be able to concept
shoes as 3-dimensional objects
a covering of the pattern making
techniques in depth: training on
lasts that we have developed
during the years to better

1 week
FOOTWEAR
MANUFACTURING
PROCESSES
INTRODUCTION
A full immersion training session
to introduce our students
to the art of traditional shoe
making from the initial design,
to pattern making, to cutting,
nesting, assembling and
finishing stage of the footwear
production process giving
them some tips and tricks to
help save in cost. The foot,
last, upper, middle and bottom
components are analyzed in
depth with the help of samples
and detailed videos.

understand how proportions


and volumes of the last are
related to the correct fitting of
the shoe. Then students start
to use production last prepared
by our specialists for the
different kind of shoes. Further
theoretical lessons on last
analysis and proportions, size
conversions, rules for pattern
grading and nesting/cutting are
organized.
a week in a shoe laboratory to
involve students in the sample
making process
a final examination that include
a a fit testing session of the
samples produced during week
12 in the laboratory.

1 week
FOOTWEAR
SKETCHING
Objective of this course is
to teach students - both
experienced professionals or
beginners - the basics of shoe
sketching. During this preliminary
sketching class we do not teach
any pattern making. Even though
it is important to know that shoe
sketching benefits from a basic
technical understand of the
shoes and related components.
sketching from a real sample
technical drawing of the last
and bottom components
technical drawing of the shoe
preparation of the spec sheet

2D CAD SEMINAR
(optional)
During the 13 week pattern
making class in the late
afternoon (after class lessons)
we organize a seminar on 2D
CAD. The objective of the
seminar is to put in practice
the pattern making working
method learned during the
traditional class with the aid of
a CAD system.

2 weeks
FOOTWEAR
COLLECTION
DEVELOPMENT
In a highly competitive
environment such as todays, it
is more important than ever to
organize collections that reach
their target customers and at
the same time are efficient
in terms of development and
manufacturing.
Marketing and trend analysis
Merchandising plan
From merchandising plan
to product design

BAGS
4 weeks
PATTERN MAKING
The core of the course is pattern engineering, a topic which is
indispensable for both designers and technicians.
Topics covered during the 4 weeks course are:
hard, soft, classical and sport bags, technical-design solutions
applied to more trendy models
inserted sack type linings and stuck-on linings
theories on different construction used in production
ideas on types of leathers and reinforcing materials most widely used.
Prototypes are firstly assembled in cardboard using staples, then
with sample materials commonly used in the factories and at the
end of the program using production materials (leathers, textiles,
synthetics and fur).

Easy to find

browse categories
organize contents
share with your team

www.arstrends.com
the ultimate tool for shoe & bag merchandising

international fashion footwear magazine


founded in 1947
editorial director
Matteo Pasca
executive editor
enrico martinelli
art director
francesco martini
editorial staff
emanuela cecchetti livia sismondi
Ars Sutoria Research Team
orietta pelizzari (concept research)
Elena Marradi (research assistant)
Milena Buttarello (marketing research)
materials creation
Alizee Saygun
Rana Feghaly
companies helping develop materials
KENDA FARBEN
VIBRAM
GRUPPO MASTROTTO
M.P.G. CUOIFICIO
CUOIO DI TOSCANA
DAVOS
GEA GOMMA
SHOE SERVICE
MARTAC
CARBI. PEL
public relation & communication
Mariella Catalano
mcatalano@arsarpel.com

marketing
Oscar De Franceschi (direttore commerciale)
odefranceschi@arsarpel.com
Giorgio Gori (Toscana)
ggori@arsarpel.com
Mario Gori (Marche)
mgori@arsarpel.com
Lorenzo Caresana (Lombardia-Veneto)
lcaresana@arsarpel.com

Poste Italiane Spa - Spedizione in abbonamento postale - D.L. 353/2003 (conv. In L. 27/02/2004 n. 46) art. 1, comma 1, DCB Milano
Pubblicazione registrata presso il Tribunale di Milano al numero 234 in data 10 Giugno 1966. Direttore Responsabile Matteo Pasca
Copyright 1967 Stampa: ARS ARPEL GROUP Settimo Milanese
Tutti i diritti di propriet artistica e letteraria sono riservati.
E assolutamente vietata la riproduzione totale o parziale di articoli, disegni e fotografie, in qualsiasi forma e modo, sia analogico che digitale,
anche citandone la fonte, senza espressa autorizzazione della casa editrice. Ogni abuso sar perseguito a norma di legge
All artwork and copyrights are reserved. Total or partial reproduction is absolutely forbidden of articles, designs and
photographs in any form, either analogical or digital, even if stating the source, without the express permission of the publishing house. Any abuse will be punished by law.
Le inserzioni pubblicitarie sono pubblicate sotto la totale responsabilit del committente; la casa editrice non si assume alcuna responsabilit per il loro contenuto.
Per ogni contestazione si rimanda allindirizzo del committente pubblicato sulla sua stessa pagina pubblicitaria o, in mancanza, in fondo alla rivista.
Adverts are published at the full responsibility of the client; the publishing house does not accept any responsibility for the contents. All notifications must be referred to the advertiser,
whose address can be found either printed on his advertising page or, if this is not the case, in the end of the magazine.
Ai sensi dellarticolo 2 comma 2 del Codice di deontologia relativo al trattamento dei dati personali nellesercizio dellattivit giornalistica, si rende nota lesistenza di una banca-dati
personali di uso redazionale presso la sede di Milano, via Ippolito Nievo 33. Gli interessati potranno rivolgersi al responsabile del trattamento dei dati Ing. Matteo Pasca presso la
sede di Milano, via Ippolito Nievo 33,
per esercitare i diritti previsti dal D.L.GS. 30 giugno 2003, n.196

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