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SPRING / SUMMER 2014

RUNWAY REPORT
Y

ears later, when one looks back at the spring of 2014, it ought
to be remembered as the beginning of a trend that lingered on
for many seasons. Not only couturiers, but influential fast fashion
brands have also been engulfed by the rampant athleticism evident
in both menswear and womens wear. As we enter this edition
of spring, shelves at stores are getting prepped for the unisex
bomber jackets, agile sweatpants and sporty crop tops; needless
to say, the batch of health conscious consumers is on its way to
translate into a collective culture a culture that evokes a sense of
relevance in fashion.
This relevance has enabled ideas in fashion that would have
previously been abandoned, one of them being the introduction of
slack fit in formal ensembles. The ease with which designers have
blended silhouettes through multifunctional hybrids-shirtdresses,
pyjama trousers and roomy tunics empowers people caught in
a world of exhaustive options. High street brands will only strike
a chord if they manage to include this streak of versatility in their
collections ensembles which could tick more boxes than one on
the trend checklist.
The question remains, what do we take forth from this feisty
spring? We take forth relevance, a fashion ideal that is beyond its
shock value and, to the relief of many, a mood of relaxation. The
will to unravel the culture of sports and knead cultural influences,
developing silhouettes that rank high on functionality and more
importantly, exploring the underdog category of knits.

Menswear
The dandy man and the
technical geek coexist
amid abstract plaids and
geometric florals

Womenswear
Sporty silhouettes coloured
in an icy palette of pastels
gush in with ultra relaxed
formals and translucent
sheers

spring/summer 2014 | menswear | runway trends | FFT magazine

What started at resort of 2014 for women continued to gain momentum


and take form in menswear as well. With sporty chic being the keyword,
sportswear came about full circle at menswear S/S 2014, emerging as
the underlining theme of the season. The conjunction of formal wear
and sportswear towards a modish whole, attributed by a casual but
well put together man, will be the business propellant for the season.
Recurrences of sweatshirts and futuristic jackets sporty and technical
together with knits and jacquards, were a notably frequent affair, so
was the long length of the overcoats and the occasional tunic silhouette.
Sporty separates aside, formals were presented with an effortless
culmination of athleticism with designers trading in buttons on classy
jackets for zippers. Loose pants and roomier shorts, fold ups and boxy
vests were frequented by many, accounting for an easy, formal vibe.
While there were traces of the swinging 60s, dandy gentlemen were
evinced by the cropped and tapered trousers executed with the suit
sets and the loose sleeve tee. There was also a footprint of short suits
promising to break commercial grounds, perfectly in sync with the
short sets in general. Florals set the category of prints afloat with a
dark charisma and thought, merging with geometric quirky takes; the
technique of splatter and brushstrokes called for considerable attention
after repeated occurrences at Paris. Resultantly, colour in the mens
wardrobe has its fair share of hopping between bright hued layers
and icy tones. Leather defies convention once again penetrating the
summer game. Fabric innovation and technology were the prime streaks
manifested in constructions that account for the changing trends in the
menswear markets.
Unfussy but classy, aggregates to be the seasons vibe with silhouettes
that were at relative ease and sportswear was undeniably the plinth on
which the fashion weeks were firmly fixated.

Costume National

Dolce & Gabbana

Moschino

Tom Ford

Futuristic Formals

MENSWEAR

Fashion Forward Trends

E. Tautz

Dolce & Gabbana

Saint Laurent

his is the perfect look to standout in the crowd and shine brighter than thy neighbour. Designers tailored formal
suits of various shapes and sizes in shimmer, sequin, foil and glistening silks. While some preferred the toned
down approach of wearing a shiny coat on a monochrome suit, there were others who went guns blazing in light
reflecting fabrics head to toe, starting from the tie to the shirt to finally, the pants. Instead of the usual gold, silver
and copper; light green, blood red and royal blue were colours that were used beautifully this season too.

Fashion Forward Trends

spring/summer 2014 | menswear | runway trends | FFT magazine

Balenciaga

Calvin Klein

Givenchy

Fendi

Christopher Shannon

BLK DNM

Dries Van Noten

Richard Nicoll

Herms

Salvatore Ferragamo

Giorgio Armani

porty Suave the term would best be described as the zeitgeist in context of Menswear S/S14. There was hardly
a show without an element of sport on display. Bomber jackets inset with shirts, sweatshirts with shorts, track
pants, ribbed cuffs and the panels, all bear testimony. Then there were the blazers and pants worn with sweats and
the formal trousers with jerseys and bombers all forming the genesis for Sporty Chic. Embraced by all, the mood
took full form when the buttons were replaced by zippers, knits found a slot and the sleeves were rolled up.

Transparency

Sporty Suave

Dsquared

Paul Smith

MAN

clear winner for Autumn/Winter 2013, transparency has clawed its way to spring 2014 too. Frequenting shirts
and coats, pants were added to the list, playing on sheer fabrics, such as net, mesh, lace and more. Some
designers chose to leave a bit to the imagination by using opaque pockets, collars and plackets on a filmy bodice,
while others picked the got it, flaunt it strategy. Layering was quite prominent, taking the trend over to a wearable
zone. Instead of its usual colourless forms, bright green, gray and pale yellow were experimented with at ease.

Fashion Forward Trends

spring/summer 2014 | menswear | runway trends | FFT magazine

Dior Homme

Dsquared

Alexander McQueen

Diesel Black Gold

Jil Sander

Kris Van Assche

hort suits have convincingly matured from an experimental streak to a mainstream phenomenon. The tapered
short suit, this summer, is succeeded by an air of comfort underlined by a serious tone of formal. Loose bottoms
inclining towards three-fourths have replaced the skinny shorts; rationally, so the longer blazers leave sufficient
room for slouch. Ranging from monochromatic short suits to peaking lapels on a double breasted coat safely
played along the side walls of formal.

KTZ

Michael Bastian

The Hybrid

A Not-So-Short Suit

Agi & Sam

Kris Van Assche

Kenzo

Emporio Armani

Giorgio Armani

Alexis Mabille

onsidering the number of designers rolling out sweatshirts in their collection, it wasnt hard to decode one of
the key silhouettes of the season. However, designers looked past the regular sweatshirts, creatively employing
elements of it on classic menswear separates. In a hybrid fashion, office blazers boasted of hoodie caps and bomber
sleeves (ending in gathered cuffs), with some variations replacing zipped closures for the usual buttoned plackets.
Inversely, sweatshirts and bombers too were diced in a flavour of formal wear, with designers constructing them with
suit lapels, welt pockets and button fasteners.

Fashion Forward Trends

spring/summer 2014 | menswear | runway trends | FFT magazine

Kurta Clad

John Galliano

Billy Reid

Fendi

KTZ

Siki Im

Meadham Kirchhoff

he Indian kurta got a contemporary avatar after numerous variations and sightings on the international runway.
The length varying from short to mid-thigh to knee-length, cut in simple fabrics and fits, the kurta shirt is an
official season trend. The mandarin collar is the distinguishing characteristic of this fashion. Layering over T-shirts
and extended sheer panelling can be incorporated well with a kurta for a more edgy vibe. This kurta shirt lends an
air of ease and transforms the ensemble into an effortless laidback one.

Balenciaga

Diesel Black Gold

Tech(Y) Jack

Duckie Brown

Gucci

Salvatore Ferragamo

Christopher Raeburn

Burberry Prorsum

Dries Van Noten

uterwear for spring had a major moment with Frida Gianninis innovative technical transformation at Gucci.
While the fabrics got tech(y), the jackets got techno. The sporty jackets made of technical fabrics embodied
neater constructions with zippers and Velcro a spring highlight of creativity for menswear. Anoraks with sharp
flaps worn with sci-fi glasses made the jacket look no less than a futuristic entity. The construction of some others
was relatively easy and slouched but with an edge of its own rendered through the sheen and sheer shirts.

Fashion Forward Trends

Agi & Sam

Damir Doma

E. Tautz

Iceberg

Dior Homme

Raf Simons

artitioning the garment in geometric shapes so the end product looks like multiple garments sewn together to
form one is how designers divided their ensembles. This S/S14 mens runway saw a lot of this trend popping up
in bold horizontal stripes, using different hues of the same colour strategically to highlight each segment and with
creatively placing each piece to resemble patchwork with the pockets starkly standing out from the background
shades. Colour divide can be created in formal and casual wear, both by creating a bold impact on suits, pants
overcoats, sweatshirts but to keep it subtle and yet fashionable, it can be colour blocked by accessories like ties
and belts too.

Phillip Lim

Mad Over Plaid

Colour Divide

Paul Smith

spring/summer 2014 | menswear | runway trends | FFT magazine

Junya Watanabe

Comme des Garons

Jil Sander

Neil Barrett

Damir Doma

Missoni

he criss-cross pattern is more than the customary horizontal and vertical bands, this was proved to be true as the
print was shaped into Tartans, Gingham checks and Tattersall or Madras checks this spring. Designers stuck to
the customary shades of blue iris, blood red, black and white but played around with the execution. Mixing different
plaid patterns in one ensemble and reintroducing it in abstract forms was a break from the ordinary. Except on the
obvious formal attire, plaid was spread on shorts, jackets, jumpers and T-shirts, expanding to the territory of casual
wear too. Suitable for all fabrics, the unfading pattern deems more than fit for summer.

Fashion Forward Trends

spring/summer 2014 | menswear | runway details | FFT magazine

Agi & Sam

Indigo Age

E. Tautz

Hermes

Canali

Lanvin

3.1 Phillip Lim

Alexis Mabille

Balmain

Versace

Kris Van Assche

Robert Geller

Jil Sander

Lee Roach

Missoni

ne colour found in prominence this season was indigo. The shade of wisdom and intuition spans across
different channels of fashion, said to have its roots embedded as a strong Indian dye colour. It is one of the
shades that stand out in the current fascination for blue. Deep dark tones along with some graded tones ruled the
runways. The colour that in itself is a very rich tone of blue works best with neutral shades like white and other light
colours like pale limes and pinks in addition to black for more dressy ensembles. With subtle hints of mysticism
and spirituality, indigo conveys just the right amount of energy and charm holding a strong position in the palette
stories for coming seasons too.

mans waist has a face this season, coming into shape on the most unexpected silhouettes. With a defined waist,
designers injected a dose of sartorial finesse in ready-to-wear separates. Work wear ensembles shirts and overalls
were either cinched around the waist, side seams with a gathered stitch or held by riveted waistbands on either side. Belts
were brought out to accentuate form on both casual and evening wear. While leather waistbands on rolled up pants stood
for a striking contrast, buckled and knotted belt on coats, blazers and trenches made for a recurring image on the runway.
Some designers went as far as belting bombers and longer sweatshirts, adding a calculated fit to their slack contours.

Pinch Of Cinch

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Fashion Forward Trends

3.1 Phillip Lim

Saint Laurent

spring/summer 2014 | menswear | runway details | FFT magazine

Alexander McQueen

Ann Demeulemeester

Versace

MAN

Louis Vuitton

Junya Watanabe

Jean Paul Gaultier

3.1 Phillip Lim

Comme des Garons

Issey Miyake

lorals for men and that of a dark variety had a charm of its own, in the minds of many. From tropical vagaries to renaissance
intricacies, they were big and around. But, what was intriguing this year was the use of geometric prints stripes or checks
with feminine floral ones. Merged in the same ensemble at some shows and in others, on separates the upper covered
in flowers and the bottom part striped or checkered, this trend breaks all rules of Dos and Donts in prints. Flometrics bring
a statistical quality to something that is so inherently immeasurable and free-flowing.

Flometric

taying true to the eccentric instinct embedded deep in each artist, designers this time ventured into the outlandish
through colour. A mish-mash of colours splattered across the clothes resulted in standout products in many designer
collections for men. London witnessed the trend in the form of psychedelic tie&dye from head to toe, whereas Paris and
Milan frequented splatter in a hodgepodge manner and fused it with other print forms, such as plaid and stripes. While
some incorporated the entire spectrum of colours, others used patterns resembling brush-strokes and splatters executed in
hues that were rather dull and subdued.

Matter Of Splatter

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Fashion Forward Trends

spring/summer 2014 | menswear | runway details | FFT magazine

Calvin Klein

Philipp Plein

Costume National

Lanvin

McQ Alexander McQueen

Valentino

Dsquared2

here is a lot more than usual that can fit into mens pockets this season. The modest pocket square has been stretched
wider and longer to make a grand appearance on outerwear and other ensembles. The chunky pockets, with some
variations measuring above 10 inches, were mostly topped with buttoned flaps on coats and jackets. Placed on chests
and waists, big bellows pockets (with expandable sewn sides and a front boxy pleat) were sewn on safari jackets while
structural flap pockets hopped from sweatshirts to bomber jackets. Frontier pockets together with patched pockets on
overalls strengthened the adaptability of the trend on other ready-to-wear separates.

Bit-O-Leather

Trussardi

Richard Nicoll

Fendi

Giorgio Armani

Gucci

John Varvatos

nits have, very refreshingly, managed to befit the list of summer trends in a capacity more than that of a dull imitation. In
peppy colours, optical weave patterns and futuristic prints, knits have staged a playful comeback. Open knits, in specific,
were a soothing change from the usual, adding an element of see-through, perfect for the spring runways. Some designers
incorporated waffle-knit sweaters too, while others went for abstract jagged patterns.

Knitty Gritty

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Fashion Forward Trends

spring/summer 2014 | menswear | runway details | FFT magazine

Acne Studios

Emporio Armani

Alexander McQueen

Paul Smith

Missoni

Les Hommes

Burberry Prorsum

Shaun Samson

John Varvatos

Herms

Etro

Ermenegildo Zegna

he yoke of a shirt, meant to lend support to parts that needed it, was approached in different ways of creative interest
this spring. One was via fabric, juxtaposing textiles for standout looks sheer on opaque or vice versa and even using
metallic ones for added effect. The second was managed through colours: black on white, white on black and pale pink on
white. Variation was also created through pleating the yoke and colour blocking it. What traditionally remains concealed
behind layers was seen slowly sitting front row this season.

Duke OF Yoke

n accessory that was hard to miss on any designer runway this season was that of a scarf- square, circular and long galore.
They were fashioned in various different ways; Loop-n-through, knot, infinity, cowboy, designers got their creative juices
flowing with each style. Embracing the summer season, scarves were seen in feminine prints and bright colours; bringing
much life to various power suits and casual daywear. Knits and woven were both present, tucked in prim or swaying, slung
around the neck. Easily this seasons must have.

Scarf The Issue

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Fashion Forward Trends

3.1 Phillip Lim

John Galliano

spring/summer 2014 | menswear | runway details | FFT magazine

Alexander McQueen

Burberry Prorsum

Balenciaga

Christopher Raeburn

here is a lot more than the usual that can fit into a mans pocket this season. The modest pocket square has been
stretched wider and longer to make a grand appearance on outerwear and other ensembles. The chunky pockets,
with some variations measuring above 10 inches, were mostly topped with buttoned flaps on coats and jackets. Placed
on chests and waists, big bellows pockets (with expandable sewn sides and a front boxy pleat) were sewn on safari jackets
while structural flap pockets hopped from sweatshirts to bomber jackets. Frontier pockets together with patched pockets
on overalls strengthened the adaptability of the trend on other ready-to-wear separates.

Colossal Pockets

Dries Van Noten

Giorgio Armani

Emporio Armani

Richard Nicoll

James Long

Z Zegna

n a classic tale of functional meets aesthetic, designers felt the pull of statement zippers as seen in their runway offerings.
The utility fasteners were face-lifted to two- way separating zippers, making quite an edgy impact on outerwear separates.
Flattering a myriad looks, fitted bombers were sewn with sleek zippers, boxy jackets were locked neatly in metallic zippers
much like the dandy blazers and taking a futuristic leap were tech-inspired jackets replaced broad leather plackets with the
regular concealed closures. The trend came together on sport blazers as well, where the two-way zipper shifted to a front
sideway placket.

Zipped 2-Ways