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Productionfile MICHELE Shirt

S/S 2017
Fiona Matsumoto
M1Ei

Table of content

Introduction
Descripton of concept of brand
Style description

5
5

Material overview

6-7

Technical information
Technical drawing


Size Specification + How to measure
Grading
Style sheet
Technical style specifications
General style specifications
Sequence of operations
Workflow
Cost price calculation

9
10-11
12
13
14-15
16
17
18-21
22-23

Correlation
Production and transport systems
Layout of production line
Calculation of lead time
Attachment

25
26-29
31
33

Description Concept Brand

Eco-consciousness - Happiness - Cleanliness - Collaboration


Following Doppers philosophy, its fashion brand extension One & One focuses on a
simple and clean, yet playful collection in the lower mid fashion segment.
Since sustainability is the most important value of Dopper, all clothes are made out of
recycled fabrics in an eco-friendly production, visible for example in water-free dying.
Its high quality garments are provided in a rather affordable price level for such
conscious production due to the mother brands mission to spread the message.
One & One is concentrating on a rather small female group that is willing to spend
money on eco-friendly but stylish clothing.

Style description
Information
Style: Womans Sleeveless Shirt with Coloured Hidden Button Stand
Style Name: MICHELE Shirt (Fashion Basic)
Article Number: ONE005
Season: S/S 17
Retail Price: 125
One & Ones MICHELE sleeveless shirt is cut in a straight fit from crisp cotton.
Contrasting blue recycled polyester is used for details such as hidden button stand,
inside collar and side seam binding. The button closure ends in a curved hem.
A metallic button closes the mandarin collar, which adds to a clean appearance.

Material Overview

Main Fabric
Name: DOP001
Composition: 100% Recycled Cotton
Colour: Pure White, AND001
Stiff and thicker woven fabric providing a
straight shape. Comfortable on skin.
Contrast Fabric
Name: DOP004
Composition: 100% Recycled Polyester (water free dye)
Colour: Cool Blue, AND004
Smooth and shiny woven fabric, used for the
hidden button stand, collar inside and side
seam binding.

Main Yarn
Name: Amann Saba 120
Composition: 100% Polyester
Colour: Pure White

Contrast Yarn
Name: Gtermann CA02776
Composition: 100% Polyester
Colour: Cool Blue

Metal Shank Button (Recycled)


Name: PER003
Diameter: 1,5cm
Material: Metal
Colour: Frisky Steel, AND011
Shiny metal shank button used for collar
stand.
Button Stand Button (Recycled)
Name: PER004
Diameter: 1,5cm
Material: Plastic
Colour: Pure White, AND001
Matt plastic buttons used for button stand.

Technical Drawing

Front

Back

How To Meausre

F
H

G
I

B
A
K
C

10

Size Specification

READY MEASUREMENT

S (36) in cm TOLERANCES

Total Length

63

+/- 1

1/2 Chest circumference

46

+/- 0,5

1/2 Waist circumference

46

+/- 0,5

Shoulder to shoulder

38

+/- 0,5

Armhole

43

+/- 0,5

Total Neck opening

19

+/- 0,5

Neck drop

+/- 0,5

Collar width

3,5

+/- 0

Collar length

58

+/- 0

Button stand width

+/- 0

Button stand length

51

+/- 0,5

Back width along yoke


seam

36

+/- 0,5

Front Bottom hem

53

+/- 0,5

Back Bottom hem

47

+/- 0,5

Yoke length

14

+/- 0,5

CB length

55

+/- 0,5

11

Grading

The grading oft he garment is based on an industrial size table with body measurements of
a woman with 176cm body height.

12

READY MEASUREMENT

XS (34)

S (36 )

S (38)

M (40)

L (42)

Total Length

63

63

63

63

63

1/2 Chest circumference

44

46

48

50

52

1/2 Waist circumference

44

46

48

50

52

Shoulder to shoulder

37,7

38

38,3

38,6

38,9

Armhole

41,6

43

44,5

45,9

47,4

Total Neck opening

18,5

19

19,3

19,7

20

Neck drop

Collar width

3,5

3,5

3,5

3,5

3,5

Collar length

57,2

58

58,7

59,5

60,2

Button stand width

Button stand length

51

51

51

51

51

Back width along yoke seam

34

36

38

40

42

Front Bottom hem

53

53

53

53

53

Back Bottom hem

47

47

47

47

47

Yoke length

14

14

14

14

14

CB length

55

55

55

55

55

Side seam length

33

33

33

33

33

Collar stand button diameter

1,5

1,5

1,5

1,5

1,5

Button diameter

1,5

1,5

1,5

1,5

1,5

Distance between buttons

5,5

5,5

5,5

5,5

5,5

Style Sheet

MODELNAME: MICHELE Shirt


One & One by Dopper
Design by: Fiona Matsumoto

SEASON: S/S 2017


FEMALE
ARTICLE NUMBER: ONE005
B

DOP001
DOP004

FABRIC (A)
FABRIC (B)
Sleeveless Shirt

FITTING
YARN

BUTTONS

Straight Fit
Hidden Button Stand in contrasting
colour
Coloured details and topstitching

Straight Fit
Amann Saba 120
Gtermann 100
Shank Button, Silver
Plastic Buttons, White

ZIPPER

FANCY LABELLING

Brand / Size Label

CARE LABELLING

Wash Care Label

Slightly curved bottom hem

DETAILS

COLOUR RANGE

Cool Blue, AND004

Pure White, AND001


SIZE RANGE
XS

13

Technical Style Specification

Article: MICHELE Shirt

Technical drawing

Style number: ONE005


Collection: S/S 17
Target group: young to mid-age women
Label: ONE & ONE by Dopper
Features:
Coloured details
Hidden button stand
Mandarin Collar
Sleeveless

Nr.

Size specification

01

Chest width

46

02

Waist width

46

03

waistband width relaxed

04

Hip width

05

Neck to neck point

19

06

Side seam

33

07

Centre back length

55

08

Inseam

09

Sleeve length

10

Shoulder point to shoulder point

11

foot width
Special measurements

13
14
15

14

34

36

38

38

40

42

16

seams

Stitch
type

Closing seams

Lock
stitch

Seam
allowanc
e

Needle
type /
nr

yarn
type /
nr

1 cm

80 spi

120

1 cm

80 spi

100

1 cm

80 spi

120

30

0 cm

90 spi

100

1 cm =
15 cm
yarn

1 cm

70 spi

120

st/cm

Chain
stitch
17

Top / Fancy stitching

Lock
stitch
Chain
stitch

18

Bottom seam

Lock
stitch
Chain
stitch

19

Buttonholes

Chain
stitch

20

Over edge

Lock
stitch
Chain
stitch

REMARKS
Terms of delivery
One & One by Dopper garments will be produced in Turkey and delivered by truck
in recycled polybags. All garments are first send to the main warehouse in Weesp
and from there to the individual customers. Before sending, the MICHELE shirt has
to be reconditioned, meaning ironed.
Garment includes: Brand label, Size label, Wash care label, Price tag

15

General Style Specification


Cost price excl. vat
38,97

Date 15.06.16

Season
S/S 17

Division
Female

Style nr.
ONE005

Fabric

Colour

34

36

38

40

42

Cotton
Polyester

DOP001
DOP004

200

300

250

150

100

Body Lining
Sleeve lining
Contrast fabric
DOP004
Interlining
Thick Fusible
Trimmings
PER003, PER004

Brand Label:

Others
Buttons: 1 PER003, 6 PER004

Hang Tag (Size):

Zippers: Brand label: woven, printed, white


Wash & Care label: woven, printed, white
Size label: woven, printed, white
Topstitching: contrast
Closing yarn: ton sur ton

Fabric Quality Research


Shell fabric composition:

100% Cotton

Contrast fabric composition:

100% Recycled Polyester

Lining composition:

Actual fabric width: 150 cm

Interlining: non woven

Fabric consumption: 130 cm + 60 cm

Wash & Care label

Changes:
Due to the use of two different fabrics, gentle
washing is suitable. To prevent cotton from
shrinking, the garment should be dried naturally.

16

Sequence of operations
01. Stitch darts on front panel
02. Fuse button stand
03. Fuse button hole stand
04. Fold and press buttonhole stand
05. Stitch button stand
06. Attach button hole stand to front panel
07. Turn button hole stand
08. Stitch hem of button hole stand
09. Cut, Turn, Press
10. Topstitch button hole stand
11. Set yoke on back panel
12. Stitch front shoulder seam on inside back yoke
13. Fuse one collar stand
14. Close collar stand
15. Cut, Turn, Press
16. Topstitch collar stand
17. Attach collar stand to panel
18. Close side seam

19. Fold and press bias tape binding


20. Attach binding to side seam
23. Close shoulder seam facing

21. Cut off edge of side seam

24. Close underarm facing

22. Topstitch binding

25. Overedge facing


26. Fold inwards and stitch
27. Attach armhole facing
28. Turn and Press
29. Back tag facing
30. Topstitch facing
31. Stitch rolled hem
32. Set buttonholes
33. Set buttons
34. Stitch brand label
35. Press front and back
36. Control

17

Workflow

WORKFLOW SHEET
Art. Nr.: ONE005
PATTERNNUMBER: ONE005
FRONT


1
2

4
5


18

DATE: 14.06.16

SAM

Operation

12
F2

Stitch darts on
front panel

15

Fuse button stand

20

20
56

53

Fuse button hole


stand


BACK

Seam
Symbol

Attach button
hole stand to
front panel
Turn button hole
stand

Stitch button hole
stand hem

Machine Stitch
Attachment
Type
Type
1-needle 301
lockstitch

Fold and press


button hole stand
Stitch button
stand

PAGE 1

Fusing
machine

Fusing
machine

Ironing
machine

1-needle 301
lockstitch

1-needle
lockstitch

301

1-needle
lockstitch

301

WORKFLOW SHEET
Art. Nr.: ONE005

9

SAM

Operation

30

Cut, Turn, Press

DATE: 14.06.16

PAGE 2

Seam
Symbol

Machine
Type
Ironing
Machine

Stitch
Type

Attachment


10
11

53
38

Topstitch
button hole
stand
Set yokes on
back panel

15

16
17
18

59

40

57
56
37
F2

Attach collar
stand to panel

Close side
seam

1-needle
lockstitch

301

1-needle
lockstitch

301

Fusing
machine

301

1-needle
lockstitch

1-needle
lockstitch

301

1-needle
lockstitch

301

1-needle
lockstitch

301

Close collar
stand
Cut, Turn, Press






Topstitch collar
stand

301

12 12,5 Stitch front


F2 shoulder seam
on inside back
yoke
13 10 Fuse one collar
stand
14

1-needle
lockstitch

Collar
Turning
Machine

Ironing
machine

19

WORKFLOW SHEET
Art. Nr.: ONE005

19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28

20

Operation

5
F2

Fold and Press


Bias tape
binding
Attach binding
to side seam

37
F2
10
F2
37
F4

Cut off edge of


side seam
(0,5cm)
Topstitch
binding

5
F2

Close shoulder
seam facing

5
F2

Close underarm
facing

55
F2

Over lock facing


55
F2

Fold inwards
and stitch

42
F2

Attach armhole
facing

20
F2

Turn and Press

29

2
F4

Back tag facing


30

42
F2

Topstitch facing

98

Stitch rolled
hem

31

SAM

DATE: 14.06.16

PAGE: 3

Seam
Symbol

Machine
Type
Ironing
machine

Stitch
Type

Attachment

1-needle
lockstitch

301

1-needle
lockstitch

301

1-needle
lockstitch

301

1-needle
lockstitch

301

3-threads
over lock

504

1-needle
lockstitch

301

1-needle
lockstitch

301

Ironing
machine

1-needle
lockstitch

301

1-needle
lockstitch

301

1-needle
lockstitch

301

WORKFLOW SHEET
Art. Nr.: ONE005

SAM

32 10+10
per
button
hole
F7
33 10+10
per
button
F7
34
16

35
36

20
60

Operation
Set button
holes

DATE: 14.06.16

PAGE 4

Seam
Symbol

Machine Stitch
Type
Type
Buttonhole 304
machine

Attachment


Set buttons

Stitch brand
label

Press front and


back
Control

Button
attach
machine

101

1-needle
lockstitch

301

Ironing
machine


TOTAL SAM: 1871

21

Cost Price Calculation

The MICHELE Shirt takes a total SAM of 1871, which means that the Make & Trim
time is 1871 cmins. To calculate the whole CMT time, cutting has to be added:
CMT = (10% of M&T) + M&T

1871 / 100 = 187,1

187,1 + 1871 = 2058,1
1cmin = 100min
CMT =
2058,1 / 100 = 20,58 min
ONE & ONE by Dopper is sourcing and producing in the EU due to their focus on
sustainability. Therefore, Turkey is chosen to keep the transportation way short, but
at the same time providing a rather high efficiency rate of 70%.
In Turkey, 1 SAM costs 0,19 .
CMT Price = (10% of SAM) + SAM / 0,7 x 0,19
20,58 / 07 x 0,19 = 5,59

The total price for CMT in Turkey for one garment will be 5,59.

22

One & One by Dopper


style
article number
description

MICHELE Shirt
ONE005
Sleeveless Shirt Female

description
FABRIC 1
FABRIC 2
lining 1
lining 2
button 1
button 2
shoulderpads
fusible lining
overlock yarn
sewing yarn
topstich yarn
brandlabel
care label
size label
hangtag (recycled paper)
spare button bag
recycled poly bag
hanger
miscellaneous
miscellaneous
miscellaneous

100 % Cotton
100 % Polyester

width

150
150
150
150
Recycled Metal Button
Recycled Plastic Button
Thick Fusible
Amann Saba 120
Amann Saba 120
Gtermann 100

quantity
1,30
0,60
0,00
0,00
1
6
0
0,80
0,17
0,24
0,10
1
3
1
1
0
1
0

unit

m
m
m
m
pc
pc
pc
m
100 m
100 m
100 m
pc
pc
pc
pc
pc
pc
pc
price/pc in =
price/pc in =
price/pc in =

prod country
plan quantity
date

Turkey
1000
11.06.16

unit price

costs

4,00
4,20
2,00
2,00
0,05
0,05
0,00
0,50
0,09
0,09
0,14
0,10
0,02
0,01
0,90
0,05
0,15
0,35
0,00
0,00
0,00

5,20
2,52
0,00
0,00
0,05
0,30
0,00
0,40
0,02
0,02
0,01
0,10
0,06
0,01
0,90
0,00
0,15
0,00
0,00
0,00
0,00
9,74

5,59
16,77
0.75
6,37
0,50

5,59
16,77
0.75
6,37
0,50

COMPONENTS
C.M.T.
(proto) sample(s)
patterning/grading
transport incl. custom duties
reconditioning

1
1
1
1

price/pc in =

PRODUCTION

29,23

SUB TOTAL

38,97

PROFIT MARGIN
WHOLESALE SELLINGPRICE
RETAIL PRICE
COMMERCIAL TICKET PRICE

incl 21 % V.A.T.

markup 2

60%

23,38

TOTAL

62,35

200%

124,71
132

23

24

Correlation
Production and Transport Systems
For manufacturing the MICHELE Shirt and other styles of One & One collections, the
Progressive Bundle system is chosen.
Since One & One by Dopper aims for a very good quality for reasonable price, a
stable system like PBS is suitable. Furthermore, since One & One would not have a
large amount of money to invest, it would be not realistic to chose an expensive system
such as the Unit Production system.
The Progressive Bundle System is a system in which bundles of cut pieces are moved
between working stations. Moreover, each section has an own layout according to the
sequence of operations. One operator is expected to carry out the same operation for
all pieces of a bundle.
The operations have to be divided in workstations. The workstations for the
MICHELE shirt will be pre-assembling of different small parts, assembling of small parts
to the panel, closing seams and finishings.
Using the PBS, workers of the same sections are sitting next to each other, and also in
front of each other. This layout can be used efficiently to save some room as well, since
sections are also working paralel to each other.
The transportation is done manually for this system. Workers are moving the bundles
with roll carts, trolley or racks. The production line of One & One will use roll carts with
boxes for the different bundles. These roll carts are located on one side of each section
and the bundles are taken and placed back by the workers.
Advantages:
- Small bundles allow fast performance
- Cost of labor is cheap due to simple operations.
- Easy change of styles
- Seperation of bundles lead to less confusion
Disadvantages:
- Large inverntory
- Difficult balancing
- Detailed planning is needed

25

Machines
Since the production line has to produce more than one garment, it is necessary to prepare
machines with which is it able to produce realistic amounts of garments.
In order to create the layout of the production line, the number of required machines are
calculated first. The following formula shows how to get to this number.
Target quantity in pieces x individual operations / daily working min. x efficiency
The target quantity can be calculated through the daily output of the style, assuming that
the daily working minutes are 480 min (8 hours x 60).
Daily Output: (Daily working min) / SAM x operations

480 / 29,4 x 36 = 587,56
Using the daily quantity, all operations are listed down each with machine type and SAM.
For every operation, the number of machines are calculated and rounded-off.

Production target /day


(8 hours) = 588


Opr.
No.
1
2
3
4


Description

5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27

26

Fusing of small parts


Close collar stand
Cut, Turn collar stand
Press Collar stand, Fold and Press
button hole stand
Topstitch collar stand
Stitch darts on front panel
Stitch button stand
Attach button holes stand to FP,
Turn button hole stand and stitch
hem
Cut, Turn, Press button hole stand
Topstitch Button hole stand
Set yoke on BP and stitch shoulder
seam on BY
Attach collar stand to panel
Close side seams
Fold & Press bias binding
Attach binding to side seams and
cut off edge
Topstitch binding
Close shoulder seam and
underarm facing
Over edge facings
Fold inwards and stitch facings
Attach armhole facing
Turn and Press facing
Back tag and Topstitch facing
Stitch rolled hem
Set button holes
Set buttons
Stitch brand label
Press front and back

Shift = 8
hours or
480min

Machine
Type
FM
SNLS
CTTM
IM

Plan on efficiency:
70%


SAM
0,45
0,59
0,30
0,30


No. Of calculated
M/c
0,8
1,0
0,52
0,52


Round-off
Machine No.
1
1
1
1

SNLS
SNLS
SNLS
SNLS

0,57
0,24
0,56
0,67

1,0
0,42
0,98
1,2

1
1
1
2

IM
SNLS
SNLS

0,30
0,53
0,63

0,52
0,9
1,0

1
1
1

SNLS
SNLS
IM
SNLS

0,56
0,74
0,10
0,94

0,98
1,3
0,18
1,6

1
2
1
2

SNLS
SNLS

1,48
0,20

2,6
0,4

3
1

3TOL
SNLS
SNLS
IM
SNLS
SNLS
BHM
BAM
SNLS
IM

1,10
1,10
0,84
0,40
0,92
0,98
1,40
1,40
0,16
0.20

1,93
1,93
1,47
0,7
1,6
1,57
2,3
2,3
0,2
0,35

2
2
2
1
2
2
3
3
1
1

The
following chart shows the required machines.

Machine Types
1-needle lockstitch
3-thread over lock
Collar Trim Turning Machine
Button hole machine
Button attach machine
Fusing Machine
Ironing Machine
All machines together


amount
SNLS
26
3TOL
2
CTTM
1
BHM
3
BAM
3
FM
2
IM
5

42



Every
machine is operated by one person, meaning that 42 workers are needed for all

the
machines. Adding one worker more for the final control, 43 operators are needed
for this production line.

Balancing
By calculating the required machines, the operations are balanced out in order to get
the most effective as possible line. Therefore, some operations using the same machines
are put together as one operation. This shortens the waiting time and reduces machines.
For instance, operation 11 is combined of setting the yoke and and stitching
the shoulder seam.
Calculating the required machines, one fusing machine is needed to produce the target
quantity, but since the first preassembling of fusing has to be done before the following
steps, two fusing machines are set to reduce the waiting line.

27

Production Layout

Using the PBS, all operations are divided into groups working on the same piece of the
garment.
The work stations are as independent from each other as possible, which has the effect that
paralel working is possible. This reduces the waiting time and creates a
productive flow of the operatons.
For example, operation tabels 17-19 are working on the pre-assembling of the armhole
facing at the same time as tabels 14-16 are working on the bias cut binding.
After those two workstation, the pieces are transported to the next station table 20-23,
where finishings are done.
In the shown layout, the operation numbers are written out for the spectfic style MICHELE
Shirt, but this system can be easily adapted to other styles as well, since the production is
divided into stations for diffrent work steps.

28

29

30

Calculation of the Lead time


Calculation of Daily Output
We assume that the daily working time is 8 hours = 480 min.
Daily Output = (Daily working min./ SAM) x operations
SAM = (10% of M&T time) + M&T time / 0,7 = (1,871 + 18,71) / 0,7 = 20,58 / 0,7 =
29,4
480/ 29,4 x 36 = 587,76
The Daily Output are 587,76 pieces.
Cycle Time
Cycle Time = SAM/ Number of employees x cord size
29,4/ 43 x 10 = 0,68 x 10 = 6,8
The Cycle Time is 6,8 min.
Lead time
Lead time = cycle time x following number of operations
6,8 x 28 = 190,4 min
The Lead time is 190,4min.
Calculation of the line efficiency
Numbers needed:
1.
2.
3.
4.

Operators: 43
Daily working hours: 8 hours
Daily Output: 587,76
Total SAM: 29,4

Total min. attendend: No. Of operaors x working min.


43 x 480 = 20640
Total min. produced: Daily Output x Total SAM
587,76 x 29,4 = 17280
Line efficiency: Total min. produced / Total min. attendend x 100
= 17280/ 20640 x 100 = 83,72 %
The Line efficiency is 83,72%.

31

32

Attachment

Calculation of the yarn consumption


Seam in cm
Amann Saba 120 White (Closing, Topstitching)

805

Amann Saba 120 White (Over edge)

110

Gtermann 100 Blue (Topstitching)

341

Amann Saba 120 White consumption:


Closing and Topstitching: 805 x 3 = 2415 cm
Over edging:
110 x 15 = 1650 cm
= 4065 cm -> 40,7 m
Amann Saba 100 White consumption:
Buttons
: 50 cm
Buttonholes: 120 cm
= 170 cm -> 1,7 m
Gtermann 100 Blue consumption:
Topstitching; 341 x 3 = 1023 cm
= 1023 cm -> 10,2 m

33

Production File
Fiona Matsumoto
M1Ei