GET Draft ISSB Construction Manual (Final - 2)

Interlocking Stabilised Soil
Block
Draft Construction Manual

Double Interlocking Rectangular Blocks for House
Construction
Part I: Planning, Setting-out and

Construction
[Part II: Building Services, Finishes and Maintenance]
April 2009
CONTENTS
A. PREFACE...........................................................................................ii
B. DISCLAIMER.....................................................................................iii
C. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS.......................................................................iv
Good Earth Trust Draft ISSB Construction Manual - Part I April 2009 i
A. PREFACE
ISSB (interlocking stabilized soil block) is an alternative and appropriate building material for East Africa
with proven success for a wide range of housing types from simple buildings such as latrines to more
involved and sophisticated single-rise and storied residential, institutional and commercial structures. The
technology has been in use in East Africa for over twenty years but scanty specialized technical
information is available for potential users of the technology. It is against this background that this Draft
ISSB Construction Manual has been prepared by Good Earth Trust (GET) primarily targeting the informal
and small-scale formal building associations and companies in the region. Nevertheless, fully-fledged
establishments may also find it useful.
The main objective of the Manual is to provide trainees and potential users of the ISSB technology with
simple but sufficiently detailed and well illustrated ISSB construction guidelines for easy assimilation and
effectual adoption and use of the technology on any construction site without the need for further
information. Detailed sketches and lists of relevant tools/equipment which may be manufactured or
available locally are provided. In the few instances where the available information is not sufficient, the
reader may obtain additional technical details from any credible source available or contact the nearest
Good Earth Trust office for assistance.
Good Earth Trust Draft ISSB Construction Manual - Part I April 2009 ii
B. DISCLAIMER
The construction techniques presented here are derived from the best practices in East Africa where the
initial target audience is based. However, it is assumed that the potential users of this Manual are trained
persons who already are familiar with the conventional building practices. Therefore, Good Earth Trust
reserves the right not to be responsible for the topicality, correctness, completeness or quality of the
information provided in this Manual. Liability claims regarding damage caused by the use of any
information provided, including any kind of information which is incomplete or incorrect, will thus be
rejected. Information in this document might be extended, changed or partly or completely deleted
without prior notice. [To be edited]
Good Earth Trust Draft ISSB Construction Manual - Part I April 2009 iii
C. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
The Good Earth Trust teams in Uganda, Kenya and the UK for every support and facilitation, Technology
for Tomorrow (T4T) (Uganda) for the invaluable training expertise, Makiga Engineering Services Ltd.
(Kenya) – the manufacturer of the block press.
Good Earth Trust Draft ISSB Construction Manual - Part I April 2009 iv
D. INTRODUCTION
D.1 Building Plan
All building projects must have relevant drawings (of sorts) usually produced by competent person(s) or
group(s) thereof. As this manual is based on building construction using the straight double interlocking
stabilized soil block, a simple 2 bed-roomed ISSB building plan is provided below, Fig. D.1, which will
therefore be used throughout the manual for illustrations (detailed architectural models of low-cost
homes are included in the Appendix to this Manual). Other related features such as cross-sections and
elevations will be derived and used as and where necessary. Note that the building dimensions are ISSB-
specific (see Section D.2 below for the block dimensions).
REAR
STORE
BEDROOM
SIDE (2)
6.75 m
SIDE (1)
BEDROOM
LIVING ROOM
PORCH
FRONT
7.82 m
Fig D.1 Ground Plan
D.2 Good Quality ISSBs
For best results, good quality interlocking stabilized soil blocks (ISSBs) (see Fig D.2 for dimensions)
should have been produced while carefully considering the following points: (1) adoption of optimum
proportions of soil, stabiliser (usually cement (OPC)), and water, taking into consideration the
characteristics of local soil; (2) careful mixing of the various components of stabilised soil blocks; (3)
application of an adequate compaction pressure to the moist soil/cement mixture in order to obtain dense
Good Earth Trust Draft ISSB Construction Manual - Part I April 2009 1
and strong building blocks with well-shaped surfaces and edges – by the correct use of the block press as
detailed in its operational manual; and (4) allowing blocks to cure sufficiently before usage to minimise
the risk of damages to the blocks and cracks in the finished structure as well as give an excellent finish to
a wall surface. Obtaining a smooth block surface can further permit their use without rendering or with a
minimum use of rendering materials if required.
The Kenya Standard Specification (KS 02-1070: 1993) and Draft Uganda Standard (DUS 849: 2009)
provide the following (minimum) physical characteristics of stabilized soil blocks necessary for good
building construction:
• Dry Compressive Strength of blocks at 28 days ≥ 2.5 N/mm2;
• Wet Compressive Strength of blocks at 28 days ≥ 1.5 N/mm2;
• Rapture Strength of blocks at 28 days ≥ 0.5 N/mm2;
• Water Absorption of blocks ≤ 15 per cent of the original mass;
• [Dry] Density of blocks ≥ 1600 Kg/m3;
• Weathering loss of mass ≤ 15 per cent of the original mass;
• Shrinkage cracks ≤ 0.5 mm wide and ≤ 50 percent of the parallel block dimension; and
• Visibly free of broken edges, honeycombing, and other defects that would impair quality.
Please note that determinations of the above parameters are beyond the scope of this Manual therefore
the reader is advised to refer to relevant local authority for detailed procedures.
266 mm 140 mm
95 mm
SIDE 115 mm END
290 mm
STRAIGHT DOUBLE INTERLOCKING BLOCK

Format Size: 290 x 140 x 115 mm
PLAN Coordinating Dimensions: 266 x 140 x 95 mm

(Order: Length x Breadth x Height)
Courtesy of Makiga Engineering Services-2009
Fig D.2 ISSB Dimensions
E. SUB-STRUCTURE
E.1 Introduction
Sub-structure generally includes all the components of a building that bear directly onto the ground (see
Fig E.1 below). The usual order of the activity sequence in its construction is: (1) Site Clearance, (2)
Setting Out, and (3) Excavations – as preliminary operations; (4) Foundation Strip (plain concrete), (5)
Foundation Plinth (double ISSB wall), and (6) Ground Slab (usually a composite structure consisting
of 25 mm cement/sand screed on 100 mm mass over-site concrete (plain or reinforced) on rubbles or
“hard core” on well compacted formation). Each operation is described in more detail hereafter.
Super-structure wall
Finished floor level
Plinth wall
Ground slab
Stripped ground level
Backfill
Foundation strip
Fig E.1 Typical Sub-structure Detail
E.2 Site Clearance
Vital Tools/equipment: Hoe, Spade, Pick axe, Wheelbarrow. Others: Axe, Rake, Machete, and Bow-
saw. These can readily be obtained from the local hardware shops and the specific types and numbers
will depend on the nature of the proposed building site and the number of operatives to be deployed on
the job – depending on the availability and cost of labour at the project site.
Start by clearing the site of any obstacles such as trees, rocks, vegetative cover etc. using the building
plan in Fig D.1 above and providing 0.5 m as width of the foundation trenches and 0.6 m clearance
around the walls, a minimum area of about 9 m long by 8 m wide (72 m2) should be stripped of the top
vegetative soil to an average depth of 150 mm from the existing ground level. Vegetative soil is not good
for use in construction, so remove and deposit the spoil away from the building area but in a place where
it can eventually be used for gardening purposes.
REAR
SIDE (1)
SIDE (2)
8m
FRONT
9m
Fig E.2 Site Clearance Plan
E.3 Setting Out
Vital Tools/equipment: Pegs & profiles (4x2 timber or 60 mm poles cut to ≥1 m), Nylon strings, Claw
hammer, Hoe, Long tape (≥30 m), Steel tape (≥ 5m), Water level, Spirit level, Bow saw, Wire nails
(assorted). Others: Plumb bob, Machete, Sledge hammer, Crow bar, white (pit) sand or ash for marking,
Mortar pan. These can readily be obtained from the local hardware shops. Note that “vital tools” are necessary
for a proper setting-out operation to be conducted while “others” are optional tools that may be improvised.
The building is set-out for excavation by use of profiles fixed clear of the trenches by at least 1 m so as
not to disturb the lines by excavation activities or bury the profiles in the heap of excavated soil (Fig
E.3a). All profiles should be established to a fair level (using a water level) and set off the ground by at
least 0.5 m (Fig E.3b).
REAR
Keep profiles clear
of excavation 2m Profiles
(≥1m) 2.7 m
0.5 m
Lines/Strings
SIDE (1)
SIDE (2)
6m
0.5 m
0.7 m
2.5 m
FRONT
7m
0.5 m 0.5 m
Good Earth Trust Fig E.3a
Draft ISSB Setting Manual
Construction Out Plan
- Part I April 2009 5
350 mm 350 mm
≥500 mm
Profile: 4"x2" timber or
Peg: 4"x2" timber or 60mm pole ≥1m long nailed
60mm pole sharpened to fair level on pegs
on one end
Ground level
Fig E.3b Profile Set-up
E.4 Excavations
Tools/equipment: Hoe, Spade, Pick axe, Machete, Wooden rammer. Others: Wheelbarrow, Watering
jar.
Excavate strip foundation trenches 500 mm wide (Fig. E.4) using the simple hand tools listed above, to a
depth usually determined on site where uniform and stable soil is encountered, but ≥0.5 m. Heap the
excavated soil within the building area – clear of the trenches – to be eventually used for backfilling.
Ensure that the sides of the trenches are fairly vertical if in stable soil by trimming with machete;
otherwise if the soil is seen to be unstable then the sides should be cut to a suitable slope outwards to
avoid the ground caving-in and causing accidents to the operatives. Depending on the general nature of
the local terrain, the foundation trenches may be stepped for safety and economic reasons. Level the
trench bottom and compact with a wooden rammer (see Section E.5 below) and if required, apply anti-
termite treatment to the bottom and sides of the trenches by sprinkling the solution with a watering jar.
A: Stable soil B: Unstable soil

(vertical sides) (reposed sides)
100mm vertical to
receive concrete
500 mm 500 mm
Fig E.4 Strip Excavation
Note that a strip foundation may not be suitable for use in unconsolidated landfills, marshes and other
unstable ground conditions in which case specialist advice must be sought.
F. FOUNDATION STRIP
Tools/equipment: Hoe, Spade, Jerry-can, Bucket, Wheelbarrow, Wooden rammer, Wire nails, Claw
hammer, Water level, Nylon string. Others: Porker vibrator, Water reservoir, Gauge box (Fig. F.3),
Timber (12”x1”), 100mm Diameter eucalyptus poles – platforms for pushing the wheel barrow in case of
soft ground (rain & loose soil).
Materials: Cement, Sand (both coarse and fine if available), ¼” Aggregate (ballast), Water (clean).
The footing is usually plain concrete of class C10 – C15 commonly associated with a volume mix ratio of
1:3:6 (cement: fine aggregate (or sand): ¼” coarse aggregate (or ballast)). Note that sand for concrete
is not normally sieved. Use the same gauge box or bucket to measure all the ingredients including
cement and mix concrete on clean platform using clean water; pour 50-100 mm thick in trenches.
Compact concrete with a porker vibrator or manually using a wooden rammer (Fig F.1) to a fairly level
finish and cure by wetting the strip twice daily for at least 2 days to allow concrete to harden reasonably
well before setting and constructing the plinth wall.
Stripped ground level Wooden rammer
60 mm pole
6"x2" or 4"x2" 1200 mm

timber firmly nailed
on end of pole
Foundation concrete
100 mm
300 mm
500 mm
Fig F.1 Placing Foundation Concrete (trench in stable soil)
Fig F.2 Gauge Box for Measuring Materials
G. FOUNDATION PLINTH
G.1 Introduction
Tools/equipment: Builders tools (trowel, square, plumb bob, spirit level, water level, building lines),
Machete, Hoe, Spade, Jerry-can, Wheelbarrow, Mortar pan. Others: Gauge rod (Fig G.4c below), Water
reservoir, Gauge box (Fig. F.2 above), Metal saw, Timber (12”x1”), 100 mm Diameter eucalyptus poles –
platforms for pushing the wheel barrow in case of soft ground (rain & loose soil). Personal Safety Gear:
Overall, Boots, Helmet, Gloves, Goggles.
Materials: Good quality ISSBs (see Section D.2 above), Mortar (see Section G.2 below): Cement, Sand
(both coarse and fine if available), Water (clean). Others: 1.2 mm Flat bars (mild steel), Weld mesh
(8'x4').
Foundation plinth or plinth wall is the block-work that is usually buried in the ground and on which the
ground slab or the superstructure rests. It is therefore the means of permanently fixing a building to the
Earth's surface; as such it should be made sufficiently stable to be effective. For this reason, it is
recommended that the outermost plinth walls and those underlying load-bearing walls of low-rise
buildings be made of double ISSB block-work as explained in Section F.5 below. Where necessary, other
internal plinth walls can be made of single ISSB block-work provided that they are mortared at every
course and adequately secured with hoop iron at wall intersections or corners.
G.2 Mortars
The tools/equipment and materials are listed under Section G.1 above.
Mortars are used primarily to accommodate slight irregularities in size, shape and surface finish of blocks
thus providing uniformity and stability to a wall. In doing so any gaps between blocks are also closed,
preventing wind and rain from passing through the wall. Mortar has a further purpose in that it improves
both the shear and compressive strengths of the wall. Mortars have some binding characteristics which
improve the shear resistance but do not add significantly to the tensile strength of a wall.
For ISSB construction, cement/sand mortars of different mixes are normally used for different strength
requirements. For instance, a 1:3 (cement: sand) mortar is expected to be stronger than a 1:4 mix – the
former often used in foundations whereas the latter in superstructure walling. Two types of sand are
normally used to achieve good results; these are pit/plaster sand with very fine grains or particles and
washed (lake/river) sand having coarse grains. More of pit sand to washed sand is used (say 2:1 in a 3-
part mortar sand, and 2.5:1.5 in a 4-part mortar sand) for improved workability and bonding
characteristics of mortar.
The oversize material in the sand for mortar must always be removed by sieving as a separate operation.
This is because course particles in mortar will distort the alignment of blocks both horizontally and
vertically – giving a poor finish to the walls as well as weakening the interconnection between the blocks
and the wall at large. Just enough mortar to last for a maximum of 1 hour at a time should be mixed on a
clean platform using clean water.
The simplest sieving device is a wire mesh screen, nailed to a supporting wooden frame and inclined at
approximately 45° to the ground (Fig. G.2). Sand is thrown against the screen, the fine material passing
through and the coarse, oversize material running down the front. Alternatively, the screen can be
suspended horizontally from a tree or over a pit. This latter method is suitable in cases where most
material can pass through in windy conditions; otherwise too much coarse material is collected, and the
screen becomes blocked and requires frequent emptying thus more labour/cost required.
Fig F.2 Simple site screen to remove coarse particles from mortar sand
G.3 ISSB Parts
The ISSB parts shown in Fig G.2 below are not standard names but used herein this document for
descriptive purposes. The orientation of the block is as it comes out of the block press and the various
parts are: (1) “head” – the depressed cross-sectional end; (2) “tail” – the protruded cross-sectional end;
(3) “top” – the depressed longitudinal bed; and (4) “bottom” - the protruded longitudinal bed. For
dimensions of the ISSB block, refer to Section D.2 above.
"Top"
(depressed)
"Tail" "Head"
(protruded) (depressed)
"Bottom"
(protruded)
Fig G.3 ISSB Parts (side elevation)
G.4 Single Wall
ISSBs are self interlocking and therefore can either be dry-stacked (e.g. in a small family latrine of say
2–3 m2), mortared in say every 3rd or 4th course (e.g. in a 2-roomed residential house) or mortared in
every other course (e.g. in foundations and large walls) depending on the size, structural and
environmental requirements of the walls in question. It is recommended that foundation walls be
mortared in every other course for greater strength and efficient supporting system.
However, for economic reasons and to achieve greater benefits of the interlocks, the mortar should be
limited to just about 5 mm – which can practically be controlled by using a gauge rod (Fig G.4c below).
Note that ISSB vertical joints are not normally mortared and the blocks should always be stacked in such
a way to avoid the vertical joints in adjacent courses coinciding or being too close to each other (Fig G.4d
below).
The blocks are usually laid on their bottom face and running tail-wise from a corner outwards (see Fig
G.3 above for the block parts). For the first course (often sitting directly on the foundation strip or the
ground slab), the protrusion is ripped off using a machete (panga knife) so the blocks can stably bed in
mortar. Ripping of the protrusion also helps to control the amount of mortar used at that level (Fig G.4d
below). The first course must be carefully set to good level using water and spirit levels and building line
as subsequent courses will generally assume this level. The overlying courses can be controlled using a
gauge rod, building line and plumb bob and levelling tools to ensure uniform levels and verticality of the
wall. A builder’s square must always be used to check right angles as shown in Fig G.4a below.
95mm (b) 2nd , 4th , 6th , 8th … Course Plan 8th

95mm
7th
95mm
Trim dotted 6th
95mm portions
5th
95mm
105mm 4th
95mm
(a) 1st , 3rd , 5th , 7th … Course Plan 3rd
95mm
2nd
95mm Builder’s square
95mm Spirit level 1st
95mm Mortar on DPC
(c) ISSB Gauge Rod (d) Elevated Wall

Fig G.4 Typical ISSB Corner Detail
G.5 Double Wall
An ISSB double wall is achieved by laying two single walls adjacent to each other (Fig G.5 below) using
the same tools, materials and procedures described earlier under Single Walls. However, the interface
between the two walls must be mortared and metal strips used to secure the wall leaflets as detailed in
Section H.2 (Corners/Wall Intersections) below. Fig G.5 is the layout of the plinth wall for the building
plan shown in Fig D.1 above. Note that no internal plinth walls are used because of the relatively small
size of the building and that a great deal of the slab is directly sitting on the ground, as detailed in Fig E.1
above.
3000mm 1640mm
REAR
300mm
6150mm
6750mm
SIDE (2)
SIDE (1)
300mm
300mm FRONT
300mm
1000mm 2000mm
7250mm
Fig G.57850mm
Foundation Plan
G.6 Plinth Wall Construction
Raise the plinth wall to a minimum height of 200 mm above the stripped ground level – the idea is to
have the finished floor level at least one foot (300 mm) above the stripped ground so that storm water
cannot run into the house. Backfill the excavated subsoil around the plinth wall in layers not exceeding
200 mm ensuring that both sides of the walls at any point are filled to the same level every time. This
ensures balanced earth pressures on either side of the wall thereby eliminating the risk of buckling or
cracks in the plinth during compaction of the backfill and thereafter (see Fig G.6 below).
If the backfilled soil is not moist (especially during very dry weather), sprinkle some water onto the soil
using a watering can – the amount of water used should just be enough to make a lamp of soil squeezed
in the palm stick together the same way water content is tested in the soil-cement mixture for making
the stabilized soil blocks. Compact both layers of soil on either side of the wall at just about the same
time (it is better to have at least two people compacting at the same time, one on each side of the wall).
Repeat the backfilling and compacting operations, each time in layers not exceeding 200 mm, up to the
level of the stripped ground. Once done, your foundation is then ready to receive the ground slab.
300 mm
Part of plinth wall above
stripped ground level
Stripped ground level ≥200 mm Backfill in layers not exceeding

200mm & compact up to this level
Backfill
≤200
mm
Foundation concrete
100 mm
500 mm
Fig G.6 Backfilling around the Plinth Wall
G.7 Ground Slab
The ground slab is usually a composite load-bearing structure comprising two or more layers of different
materials. The most common detail includes 1 inch (25 mm) cement/sand screed; on 2, 3, or 4 inches
(50, 75, or 100 mm) plain or reinforced concrete; on 4, 6, or 8 inches (100, 150, or 200 mm) stone base
(commonly referred to as ‘hardcore’); on well compacted backfill or formation (Fig G.7 below).
Super-structure wall to be
Ground slab
rendered externally to at least

900 mm above formation level
No “splash apron” but part of Finished floor level 25mm Screed

plinth wall to be rendered to 50mm Concrete
serve the same purpose
300mm 75mm Ballast
Seal the top of the
backfill and the 150mm Backfill
vicinity with big
stones to prevent
(Or Formation level)
run-off water from 300 mm
entering the foundation
1ft “ring” of hardcore
along the plinth walls
Backfill
Foundation strip
Fig G.7 Typical Low-Cost Ground Slab and Weathering Detail
In constructing the slab, it is always important to bear in mind the final or finished floor level and the
design or construction detail (that is, the materials and thicknesses to be used and therefore the
sequence of placing them into the slab). It is good practice to always mark the various depths of the
flooring materials on all sides of the slab against the corresponding plinth walls before commencing with
the slab construction. These levels should be coordinated with a water level and always referred to when
laying the floor materials.
In the case of a low-cost slab (Fig G.7 above) and after backfilling around the plinth walls as described
earlier, start by compacting the stripped ground within the plinth walls using stamping rods and
sprinkling water where necessary. Pack a “ring” of hardcore at least 1' (300 mm) wide and up to 8" (200
mm) high along the plinth walls, on the inside part of the house. This hardcore “ring” acts to reduce soil
pressure against the plinth walls during compaction and thereafter. Backfill the “basin” so created with
plain excavated soil (sprinkle water onto the soil if necessary) to a depth of about 7" (175 mm) and
compact with stamping rods – the soil will hopefully settle at 150 mm above the formation level. Spread
a thin layer of 3" (75 mm) crushed stone and level with strings and sledge hammers if necessary.
Prepare concrete (1:3:6) with 1" (25 mm) aggregates or ballast and cast, compact and level to an
average depth of 2" (50 mm) above the stone base. Note that this level should also be approximately 11"
(275 mm) above the formation level.
Cure the concrete adequately by soaking it in a pool of water or by pouring water onto the slab at least
three times a day (morning, noon, and evening) for a minimum of seven consecutive days before
proceeding to set and raise the walls (Section H below). After walling, the house is then roofed, plastered
internally if required and eventually the floor finished off with a thin layer of about 1" (25mm)
cement/sand screed, which must also be cured for at least 7 days before painting and applying any other
internal finishes.
Note also that Fig G.7 above does not have the traditional independent “splash apron” but the exposed
part of the plinth wall external to the house is rendered with 1:3 mortar to serve as splash guard or
“boot” of the house in rainy conditions. Top of the backfilled portion of the foundation trench is then
adequately sealed with closely packed boulders to prevent run-off water from entering the foundation.
Depending on the local terrain, suitable storm water drains must be provided to ensure water does not
pool around the house after a heavy downpour.
H. WALLING
H.1 Introduction
Tools/equipment: Builders tools (trowel, square, plumb bob, spirit level, water level, building lines),
Machete, Hoe, Spade, Jerry-can, Wheelbarrow, Mortar pan. Others: Gauge rod (Fig G.4c above), Water
reservoir, Gauge box (Fig. F.2 above), Metal saw, Timber (12”x1”), 100 mm Diameter eucalyptus poles –
for scaffolding and platforms for pushing the wheel barrow in case of soft ground (rain & loose soil).
Personal Safety Gear: Overall, Boots, Helmet, Gloves, Goggles.
Materials: Good quality ISSBs (see Section D.2 above), Damp proofing material (bituminous felt or
G1000 polythene sheet) Mortar (see Section G.2 above): Cement, Sand (both coarse and fine if
available), Water (clean). Others: 12 mm steel bars, 5 or 6 mm round bars, 1.2 mm flat bars (mild
steel), 60 mm Diameter hollow steel pipes, Door/Window frames.
The superstructure wall is set directly onto the ground slab, and for a small residential house such as the
one shown in Fig D.1 above single walling with the 140 mm wide ISSB mortared in every course is
sufficient. The wall will ultimately be plastered internally and skirted externally up to the window level
and around the corners to improve its structural and environmental performance (see Appendix Section
for drawings). Mortar for this purpose is of mix 1:4 (cement: sand). Both pit and washed sands must be
used at the ratio 2.5:1.5, and remember that sand for mortaring ISSBs must always be sieved.
H.2 Corners/Wall Intersections
The tools/equipment and materials are listed under Section H.1 above.
1 4
Lobby
5 Room 3
Room
Fig H.2 Common Wall Intersections / Junctions
Corners or wall intersections are critical sections of walls as they help to increase the lateral stability and
load carrying capacity of the walls. In ISSB construction, special corner details are involved which are not
often met with ordinary bricks or blocks. However, the cardinal principle in assembling all sorts of
building units is to avoid straight joints or locating vertical joints above or very close to each other to
eliminate potential lines of weakness where cracks can develop in the wall. In severe cases of loading and
differential settlements, the wall can even open-up or collapse.
Five (5) different scenarios of wall intersections or junctions often encountered in ISSB construction will
be considered: (1) the “L” junction, (2) the “T” junction, (3) the “+” junction, (4) the “Y” junction, and
(5) the stopped end (see Fig H.2 above). If dry-stacking the narrow (140 mm) blocks or not mortaring
every course, remember always to use mortar in the vertical joints at the corners because there are no
vertical interlocks there.
H.2.1 the “L” Junction
These are usually found at the extreme ends of a rectangular shaped house. Note that an ISSB crossed
on top of another will not key-in or sit in good alignment with the rest of the blocks at that level because
of the bottom protrusion, which should therefore be carefully trimmed with a machete prior to laying the
block (Fig H.2.1c). A double “L” corner is derived by laying two single “L” corners adjacent to each other
and adequately securing them with mortar at the interface and metal strips (flat bars) on every third or
fourth course as illustrated in Fig H.2.1d and Fig H.2.1e below.
Trim dotted 6th

portions
5th
Mortar on DPC th
4
Use mortar here Use mortar here 3rd

nd
2
1st
Fig H.2.1a 1st Course Plan Fig H.2.1b 2nd Course Plan Fig H.2.1c Joining Corner Blocks
Mortar Mortar
Metal Strips
(Flat Bars)
Mortar Mortar
Mortar
Mortar
Mortar
Mortar
Fig H.2.1d 1st & 3rd Course Plan Fig H.2.1e 2nd Course Plan
H.2.2 the “T” Junction
The “T” is an extension of the “L” corner and must always be made to coincide with a vertical joint of the
running (main) wall. In order to avoid straight joints, the adjoining blocks (i.e. the blocks forming the
cross on the “T” in the main wall must be cut to reduce their lengths in such a way that the established
block pattern in this wall is not interrupted. Note that the narrow ISSB length (266 mm) is not an exact
multiple of its width (140 mm) therefore never cut the block in two equal halves. When laying corner
blocks, always remember to trim portions of the bottom protrusion as described earlier so the blocks can
sit neatly on those underlying them. A double “T” corner is constructed as detailed in Fig H.2.2c and Fig
H.2.2d below, adequately secured with mortar at every interface and tied with metal strips (flat bars) on
every third or fourth course.
75mm 75mm
Full blocks
Cut tail Cut head Main wall Use mortar here
Mortar Mortar
6th
5th 5th
4th 4th
3rd 3rd
2nd 2nd
1st 1st
Fig H.2.2a 1st Course Plan & Wall Elevation Fig H.2.2b 2nd Course Plan & Wall Elevation
Mortar Metal Strips

(Flat Bars)
Cut
Mortar
Cut Cut
Fig H.2.2c 1st Course Plan Fig H.2.2d 2nd Course Plan
A further extension of the “T” junction is a pier, which is a buttress-like reinforcing section of a very long wall
– usually of more than 3 m – commonly found in perimeter walls and large institutional buildings such as
classrooms blocks, halls, dormitories, etc. As there are usually no close junctions in such walls, piers are
introduced at intervals not exceeding 3 m so as to stiffen the walls and enhance their structural integrity.
Pier Wall
Maximum 3 meters
Fig H.2.2e Plan of Long Wall with Piers

Mortar
Mortar
Fig H.2.2f 1st Course Plan Fig H.2.2g 2nd Course Plan
H.2.3 the “+” Junction
The “+” or cross Junction is similar to the “T” junction where blocks in the main wall have to be cut to
reduce their lengths to create room for the intersecting wall, without altering the established block
pattern in this wall and avoiding vertical joints. Note that the blocks should always tie at the centre of the
cross. However, one has to decide which one of the two walls is the “main wall” as it will always have the
“tie block” (see Fig H.2.3a and Fig H.2.3b below for illustration).
75mm
Tie block
Cut head Main wall Use mortar here
Mortar Mortar Mortar
Fig H.2.3a 1st (& odd Nos.) Course Plan Fig H.2.3b 2nd (& even Nos.) Course Plan
H.2.4 the “Y” Junction
The “Y” junction is ideally an “L” junction where the interior angle is greater than 90 o. However, the
corner blocks have to be cut to the required angle with a hack (metal) saw prior to laying the blocks.
Use mortar here Use mortar here
Cut off
Cut off
Fig H.2.4a 1st Course Plan Fig H.2.4b 2nd Course Plan
H.2.5 Stopped Ends, Door and Window Openings
Walls are usually stopped to create openings such as doors and windows. Given that vertical joints are
always staggered for succeeding courses in a wall, cutting of the blocks to create a regular vertical edge
is inevitable. It is recommended that an opening or a stopped end be introduced just after full blocks in
alternate courses (see Fig H.2.5b below). This implies that doors or window frames to be used in ISSB
construction should have breadths in multiples of a unit ISSB length (i.e. 266 mm) so the frames can fit
nicely in place and the blocks can connect perfectly well above the frames. Note also that for good
stability of the walls, maximum recommended breadth for any opening into ISSB walls without extra
reinforcements at the stopped ends is 1.2 m. Furthermore, if cut neatly using a metal saw, the two block
pieces should always fit properly in the gaps adjacent to the opening – this ensures non-wastage of the
blocks and cost saving.
In ISSB construction, it is recommended that any door or window frames be installed during construction
of the walls because some difficulty may be encountered when installing them later. Installing the frames
in the traditional way (after the wall has been constructed) often requires nails or anchors of some sorts
on the sides that normally involves cutting out the wall in those locations whereby the walls may be
damaged if the operator is not very careful or does not have the right tools for the job. Subsequently,
large amounts of cement mortar or concrete will be required to secure the frames onto the walls.
Flat bars attached to a

window frame at
strategic positions to
coincide with horizontal
ISSB wall joints
Fig H.2.5a ISSB Window Frame with Wall Anchors

Mortar Mortar
Cut Cut 10th
PLAN VIEW
Mortar Mortar
9th
Window Opening in ISSB Wall

Trim dotted 11th
portions
Cut block Cut block 10th
9th
8th
7th
1st 1st
Mortar on
DPC
Fig H.2.5b Stopped End / Opening in ISSB Wall
Properly cured and treated wooden frames are safe to use in ISSB construction and they are preferred for
low-cost housing for ease of adaptability and relatively low material and fabrication costs (as compared to
steel frames). For better anchorage, the frames must be made with grooves to accommodate the ISSB
keys (protrusions) and metal strips such as flat bars nailed onto the frame at strategic positions to
coincide with horizontal ISSB wall joints (Fig H.2.5a above).
During construction, a frame is raised to its final position in the wall and supported with long poles fixed
to the ground. As the wall is raised, the metal strips on the frame are slotted into the ISSB channels and
secured with small-sized nails before applying mortar and laying the succeeding courses. Provisions
should be made for ultimately screwing the shutters onto the frames; avoid nailing the shutters into place
as the hammering impacts may damage the wall.
H.3 Super-structure Wall Construction
The tools/equipment and materials are listed under Section H.1 above.
H.3.1 Layout, Door Openings and First Course
Once the ground floor is done and set, arrange strips of plastic sheet or bituminous-felt membrane
(commonly referred to as DPC) on the slab following the proposed layout of the superstructure walls. The
entire house should be laid out on the first course including the door openings to ensure that the blocks
tie up above the door lintels.
Before continuing with the second course, check that the base or first course is level and that all corners
are square. Once this is completed the blocks of the door areas should then be removed and door frames
inserted and supported as described earlier. Note that the first course is always laid in mortar (even
where the blocks are to be dry-stacked) with the ISSB top upwards and the bottom protrusion trimmed
as described before.
H.3.2 Raising the Walls
With the base course established and all door frames in place (and for whatever reason, one may as well
raise the walls without first installing the door frames), the next courses can then be continued. The
corners are first raised to about five courses high at a time and every corner level must be coordinated
using a water level (Fig H.3.2 below). A string is then fixed along a given course and blocks are laid from
the corners towards the middle of the wall. Depending on the orientation of blocks from either corner, the
tying blocks are likely to meet head-on-head or tail-on-tail and in this case mortar will be required in the
vertical joint and for the latter scenario the tail protrusions will need to be removed (Fig H.3.2). This joint
should be staggered for subsequent courses as the wall grows in height and the corners should be
checked regularly for square and vertical alignment. Note that if the layout on the first course was
correct, the blocks should fit into the wall without trimming.
Check verticality of
wall using plumb bob
Use a water level to Use a water level to

set opposite corners set opposite corners
Blocks are laid towards middle of wall
Use a string 5th
to fill-in blocks
Blocks meet here, 4th
so mortar this joint 3rd
2nd
1st 1st
Mortar Fig G.3.2 Raising the Walls

on DPC
Generally for the entire building, wall construction should proceed in an organized fashion with all walls
raised at fairly the same rate in order to maintain the overall stability of the structure. On reaching the
windows level, install the window frames and support adequately to the ground using long poles and
continue raising the walls around the frame as described earlier. Once again, for whatever reason, one
may raise the walls without first installing the window frames although this procedure is not
recommended. Note that checking the vertical alignment using a plumb bob as illustrated in Fig H.3.2 is
very important as the walls gain height and the window openings create breaks in the structure.
H.4 Ring Beam / Bond Beam and Formwork
The bond beam (commonly referred to as “ring beam”) is an important part of the structure as it ties the
walls together at the weak openings. Traditionally, 150 – 200 mm in-situ (cast-in-place) reinforced
concrete of mix 1:2:4 (cement: sand: ballast or stone aggregates) is used for this purpose. This normally
requires formwork to be fixed all over the walls just above the openings for moulding the concrete.
However, nailing into ISSB walls is not recommended where the walls will not eventually be plastered or
rendered. The nails usually damage the surface of the blocks with the risk of cracking them and rendering
the blocks vulnerable to moisture attacks especially in rainy weather. Therefore, the best way to do
formwork in ISSB construction is to use pre-fabricated moulds normally assembled on the ground and
lifted into place. Reinforcement wire is then installed (often 4 mild steel bars of 10 or 12 mm in the beam
section). Concrete is cast and carefully compacted using tamping rods (Fig H.4a). Separate strips of tying
wire (say 5 or 6 mm round mild steel bars (or 1.2 mm mild steel flat bar)) should be secured to the
reinforcement cages and allowed to stick out of the bond beams with sufficient lengths to hoop around
the top of the wall at strategic locations to ultimately tie the wall plates or the roof structure firmly onto
the walls.
Tying wire/bar protruding out of beam

Use 3" nail here 50x25 mm timber ties, 600 mm apart
Reinforcement wire (Y10 & R5)

200 mm
300x25 mm (12"x1") timber board
100 mm Use 3" nail here
50x25x140 mm timber struts, 600 mm apart
ISSB Wall
140 mm
Fig H.4a ISSB Ring Beam Formwork in Cross-section
ALTERNATIVELY, for a properly designed small low-cost house (say up to 45 m2) using the narrow (140
mm ISSBs) having a light roof structure, NOT IN AN EARTHQUAKE PRONE AREA, and in which the door
and window frames have been installed during construction of the walls, the walls can adequately be tied
just above the openings with 12 mm diameter mild steel bars placed in the ISSB channels and running all
over the walls in pairs secured in 1:2 (Cement: sand) mortar. In this case, the overlying block should
have the bottom protrusion removed to create room for the reinforcement/mortar matrix (Fig H.4b
below). Note that this method avoids the time and cost of moulding concrete thereby speeding up
construction; and ultimately, the “ring” of concrete usually visible around the house is not there even
when the house is not rendered externally.
Note that the bottom protrusion of

this block has been removed
Tying wire/bar protruding out of

joint for tying the wall plates
Maintain a regular joint & key-in (≥900 mm on either side)
neatly if wall is not plastered
Pair of reinforcement wire (Y12)
in mortar & sitting on the R5 bars
as spacers
140 mm
Fig H.4b Alternative ISSB Wall Tie in Cross-section
H.5 Finishing the Wall
Where specialised trusses are to be used as the main load-bearing roof components, it is recommended
that the house is roofed when all the walls are at the level of the wall plate for easy installation of the
roof trusses. Once the roof cladding (or cover e.g. iron sheets) is installed, the walls should then be
extended up to the cladding especially where there is no ceiling to be fixed – to provide privacy and
security in each room of the house. However, appropriate vents must be provided in these walls to allow
for proper air circulation across the house.
Otherwise where a simple roof structure that sits directly on the walls is to be used, the walls should be
fully raised before roofing the house. In this case, it is important to follow the correct slope of the roof
when finishing off the walls and all walls at the same level must be coordinated using a water level.
Roof truss
Proper ventilation in party wall
Wall finished
following the roof Wall plate level
slope
Wall plate
(4"x3" timber)
Fig H.5 Finishing the Wall
H.6 Scaffolding/Platforms
When constructing walls at levels above the chest (normally between 1.0 – 1.5 m from a standing
position), it becomes increasingly strenuous to lay the blocks and difficult to level and plumb the wall.
Therefore, the block layers should always keep elevating their working positions by using appropriate
scaffolding systems or platforms. Simple, low-cost and safe scaffolds can be constructed at the site using
lower-grade timber and poles. For elevations up to 300 mm and where the ground is stable and fairly
level around the walls, two 12"x1" timber boards sitting directly on dry-stacked ISSB blocks at intervals
not exceeding 1 m is a safe and inexpensive accessibility means (Fig H.6a below).
Stick this block firmly

≤300 mm into the ground
ISSB stacks 2 Pieces of
12"x1" timber
Ground level
≤1000 mm ≤1000 mm ≤1000 mm
≥200 mm ≥200 mm
Fig H.6a ISSB-stack Platform
For elevations between 300 mm and 1 m, another inexpensive platform similar to the one above uses
≥60 mm poles (eucalyptus or bush type) instead of the ISSB stacks. Two poles are buried in the ground
adjacent to each other about 0.4 m apart and a cross-pole nailed onto them; bracing poles may be
required across the supports when the elevation is above 600 mm from the ground. The platform should
be clear of the wall (Fig H.6b below).
Platform clear of wall
≤1000 mm 2 Pieces of Use 4" nails

Plant poles firmly 12"x1" timber here
into the ground ≥60 mm poles Bracing
Wall
Ground level
≤1000 mm ≤1000 mm ≤1000 mm ≥400 mm

≥200 mm ≥200 mm
SIDE VIEW END VIEW
Fig H.6b Pole-framed Platform
There is also an option of a mobile platform that uses pole-framed tripods instead of the fixed supporting
poles (Fig H.6c below). A tripod has two long legs that are supported on the ground and a short leg that
is supported against the wall. Note that this system is only suitable to use on double walls or where
single walls are adequately mortared at every course. Allow the supporting portion of the wall to set
adequately before using the tripod system.
Timber planks
Temporary
bracing poles
nailed on Tripod
≤1000 mm Tripods supported tripods supported
on the ground Tripods made of
on wall
60mm poles
Wall
Ground level
≥600 mm
≤2000 mm ≤2000 mm ≥600 mm
≥200 mm ≥200 mm
SIDE VIEW END VIEW
Fig H.6c the Tripod System
For higher elevations (≥1 m), the usual eucalyptus pole framed scaffold can be used. It is similar to the
pole-framed platform described above but has the vertical members extending to greater heights and
multiple braces at intervals of about 1 m (Fig H.6d below).
It is recommended that all scaffolds used in ISSB construction should be independent systems and not
involve opening up sections of the wall for support. This implies that high level scaffolds should stride
walls and have lateral members passing through window or door openings. Use 4" nails to secure the
poles in place.
Scaffold
a-stride
wall
Scaffold
Wall
Ground
≥2000 mm ≤1500 mm ≥1000

mm
SIDE VIEW END VIEW
Fig H.6d Eucalyptus-framed Scaffold
I. ROOFING
I.1 Introduction
Tools/equipment: Carpenter’s tools (hand saw, bow saw, Claw hammer, wood chisel, square, nylon
strings, and spirit level). Others: Water level, Plumb bob, Pencil, Knife, Metal saw, Machete. Personal
Safety Gear: Overall, Boots, Helmet, Gloves, Goggles.
Materials: Timber (various sizes and quantities as described in the BoQ), Roof cladding (e.g. iron sheets
and matching ridges/valleys), Wire nails (assorted sizes), Roofing nails, Rubber washers. Others: Hoop
iron, Rain gutters and accessories.
Roof design and construction details are normally influenced by the local weather and available materials,
and ISSB roofs are constructed following the traditional systems. The roof of a house primarily serves
both functional and aesthetic requirements i.e. protecting the interior of the house from the elements
(rain/cold and sunshine) and adds "beauty" to the house. In ISSB construction where external walls are
not to be rendered fully (for aesthetics and economic reasons), the roof has an additional function of
protecting the exterior wall surfaces from severe rain impacts – often achieved by providing a sufficient
roof over-hang (usually 2' or 600 mm in plan view) in addition to at-least 600 mm high above the ground
external rendering to the wall (Fig I.1 below). Where rainwater is to be harvested, then most claddings
are suitable except grass thatch. The adopted roof design must therefore be able to fulfil these
requirements using locally available materials.
Roof
600 mm
Sufficient roof Window Incident rain

over-hang
Open ISSB wall ≥600 mm

Plastered wall section Ground level
Fig I.1 ISSB Roof Requirements
I.2 Roof Structure
Roof designs are often a component of the approved building plans required for every project. Given that
every project is unique, there are several designs and techniques of constructing roof structures ranging
from simple rack-forms in small buildings where girders directly bearing on the walls carry the purlins
and roof cover – to sophisticated roof trusses bearing on specialist beams or structural walls in large
buildings.
I.3 Connecting the Wall Plate and Trusses
The tools/equipment and materials are listed under Section I.1 above.
Often 4"x3" timber profiles, the wall plate is usually the first roof element to be installed, it serves as a
load transmission or distribution facility between the roof trusses or rafters and the bearing walls; the
wall plate also provides easy connection between the roof and walls of a house. It is normally a
continuous system thus timbers must be joined to the required lengths using suitable connection details
(see example in Fig I.3a below). Metallic roof anchors must have been connected to the wall ties or ring
beam (see Section --- above) at convenient locations where the roof trusses or rafters are to sit on the
wall. The wall plate is then fastened to the wall using these anchors as shown in Fig I.3b below. Note that
the channel in the last ISSB course is filled with mortar to flush with the top of the blocks.
Wall plate (side elevation)

X
3" Nails
75 mm
100 mm
DETAIL AT X 100 mm
Fig I.3a Wall Plate Connection
Roof cover (Iron sheet)

Rafter
Purlin
Roofing nail ROOF TRUSS
Tie Beam
Tying wire wound around

wall plate & truss / rafter
Wall plate
Mortar here
Rain gutter
Fascia board ISSB wall
Tying wire
flat on wall
Fig I.3b Roof Construction and Wall Connection Detail
The length of construction wood in the market (Uganda) is anywhere between 10' (3 m) to 14' (4.2 m).
For large buildings therefore, there will be need to join timber for roof elements, and in this case try to
join the pieces accurately and tightly. Steel bands (commonly referred to as hoop iron) can be used to
splice together timber members. These bands should be well secured with 2" wire nails. The usual
sequence in constructing the roof detailed in Fig I.3b above is as follows: wall plates, roof trusses,
purlins, fascias, covering, and rain gutters.
I.4 Roof Cover and Rainwater Harvesting
The tools/equipment and materials are listed under Section I.1 above.
One of the main uses of ISSB is to construct rainwater harvesting tanks. Water tanks made from ISSB
prove to be low-cost, more durable, and safely store water without contamination. ISSB water tanks can
be built both above and below ground: above ground ranging from 2,000L to 30,000L and below ground
ranging from 10,000L to 200,000L. Compared to plastic tanks, ISSB tanks can generate significant cost
savings (more than 50 percent) for larger tanks. Please refer to the Rainwater Harvesting Water Tank
Manual for guidelines.
The main rainwater harvesting elements of a roof are the roof cover and gutters. Most roof covering
materials in East Africa are suitable for rainwater harvesting with the exception of thatch and asbestos.
The gutter should be installed with a slight slope towards the collection point. Other than using strings to
establish the profile, the gutter slope can be achieved by fabricating the brackets with an ascending
hanger-length. The collection piece of gutter should have an outlet for connection to rainwater descend to
the tank. In use, the water can either be drawn directly from the tank, which is cheaper, or by plumbing
to serve the kitchen, toilet, and washroom. Please refer to ISSB Construction Manual - Part II for
guidelines on plumbing
J. APPENDIX
J.1 Some Design Considerations
While making design choices, keep in mind that “more”, “bigger” or “stronger” mean “more cost” but not
necessarily “better!”
The following are some of the architectural design aspects to be considered when developing ISSB
building plans:
1. How many rooms required? Therefore, how big should the house be? Note that room
layouts should maximize the functional use of the house with minimum redundant spaces.
2. Do you want to construct a separated kitchen? (And washroom / toilets?) Or would you
like these in the main house? The concept of having an open kitchen within the main house (as
presented in both home plans in this Section) is relatively cheaper than a closed-in (within the main
house) or separated kitchen.
3. Do you want to include in-built fuel efficient cooking devices in the kitchen? Options are
for “rocket” and equivalent stoves, bio-gas systems, etc.
4. Do you need a rainwater harvesting tank? If so, then suitable roof cover should be used
to collect the rainwater. We recommend a 5,000 litres tank for a typical (Ugandan) home.
5. What roof shape do you prefer: gable-ended or heaped roof? The former is usually
relatively cheaper to construct whereas the latter is prettier!
6. What door/window materials to use? The choice is usually between metal and timber, the
latter being relatively cheaper and more adaptive for use with ISSB construction.
7. Do you require roof ceiling? This is greatly influenced by cost and the type of roof cover –
a tin (iron sheet) roofed house without a ceiling can be uncomfortable to stay in during a heavy
downpour.
8. What finishes (both internal including floor and external) to deploy? Refer to ISSB
Construction Manual - Part II for guidelines.
9. Do you need to install building services (plumbing, sewerage, electricity, etc)? Refer to
ISSB Construction Manual - Part II for guidelines.
The following are some of the structural aspects to be considered when developing adequate and
durable ISSB buildings:
1. Interlocking stabilized soil blocks are recommended permanent building material,
although they may take proper training and experience to use properly.
2. Structurally sound blocks must be produced in accordance with the Block Making Manual
and training guidelines – where appropriate soils are chosen and recommended quality measures
maintained throughout the block production process.
3. No vertical joint should be positioned above another vertical joint.
4. Appropriate and strong ties or ring beams around the entire perimeter of the house at the
top of the major wall openings (windows and doors) which will prevent collapse at these locations.
5. A light-weight roof relative to the entire structure and adequately secured to the tie or
ring beams.
6.Relatively small and uniform openings such as windows and doors that are no more than 30 percent
the wall length, and these openings should not be too close to or at corners if not necessary.
7. Good quality materials and workmanship, including plumb walls for guaranteed structural
integrity.
8. Uniform thickness of mortar between joints – 5 mm is sufficient and use a suitable
gauging device.
9. In large buildings, interior walls in both directions which are load bearing and similar in
construction detail as exterior walls.
10. Properly constructed foundation – double walled plinths are recommended for the narrow
ISSBs.
11. Good external protection of the wall: sufficient roof overhang, splash protection on the
base of the wall and good drainage around the house.
J.2 Typical Low-Cost Home Plans
Fig J.2.1 - 1 Bedroom ISSB Model Home
Fig J.2.2 - 2 Bedroom ISSB Model Home
J.3 Sample Building of Costs
PROJECT : PROPOSED 57SQM LOW-COST ISSB MODEL HOME [2 beds + kitchen]

ISSB DEMAND : 6,360 BLOCKS [foundation - 1,320; super wall - 5,040]
CLIENT : FOUNDATION FOR RURAL HOUSING - UGANDA
SUBJECT : ITEMISED COSTING
DATE : MAR. '09
COMPILED BY : DAN A.; CHECKED BY : LISA B.
Item Description Unit Quantity Rate Amount Comments
A Preliminaries 281,500
1 Tools and equipment required Item 1 150,000 150,000 provisional sum
2 Site clearance m2 75 500 37,500 do
3 Setting-out facilitation Item 1 50,000 50,000 do
4 Trench excavations m3 11 4,000 44,000 do
B Cement 2,599,000
1 Cement for concrete (foundation strip) Bag 5 23,000 115,000 100mm thick, mix 1:3:6
2 Cement for concrete (ground slab) Bag 10 23,000 230,000 50mm thick, mix 1:3:6
3 Cement for mortar Bag 15 23,000 345,000 approx. 5mm, mix 1:3
4 Cement for internal plastering Bag 10 23,000 230,000 approx. 10mm, mix 1:4
5 Cement for rendering (external plastering) Bag 8 23,000 184,000 approx. 10mm, mix 1:5
6 Cement for screed & other finishes Bag 12 23,000 276,000 approx. 20mm, mix 1:4
7 Cement for block making (6,360 blocks) Bag 53 23,000 1,219,000 120 blocks per 50kg bag
C Stones and Aggregates 1,060,000

1 1/4" Agg. for concrete (foundation strip & floor top) Trip 2 120,000 240,000 50mm blinding on hardcore
2 3" (75mm) crushed stones for slab conc. base Trip 2 100,000 200,000 placed on compacted fill
3 Hardcore Trip 2 100,000 200,000 300mm wide around plinth
4 Coarse sand (concrete, mortar, plaster) Trip 2 120,000 240,000
5 Pit sand (concrete, mortar, plaster) Trip 2 90,000 180,000
D Reinforcements 365,000
1 Y12mm m/s (for tying wall) Bar 9 20,000 180,000 (no ring beam in the wall)
2 R5mm m/s for tying roof to wall Bar 0 6,000 0
3 1.2mm Flat bar (for tying roof to wall) No. 5 15,000 75,000 1 ring halfway in the wall
4 1.2mm Flat bar (in plinth wall) No. 0 15,001 0 2 ring halfway in the wall
5 Binding wire Kg 5 5,000 25,000
6 8'x4' Weld mesh (on top of plinth wall) No. 5 17,000 85,000
E Roofings 2,307,000
1 Wall plates (4"x3"x14' timber) No. 10 10,000 100,000 (hardwood timber)
2 Ridge Rafters (4"x3"x14' timber) No. 10 10,000 100,000 do
3 Under-purlin (4"x3"x14' timber) No. 6 10,000 60,000 do
4 Valley Rafters (4"x2"x14' timber) No. 2 6,000 12,000 do
5 Girders / Secondary Rafters (4"x2"x14' timber) No. 15 6,000 90,000 do
6 Purlins (3"x2"x14' timber) No. 36 4,500 162,000 do
7 Fascia boards (8"x1"x14' timber) No. 10 10,000 100,000 do
8 10 Ft long G30 iron sheets No. 54 21,000 1,134,000
9 6 Ft long G30 ridges No. 13 8,000 104,000
10 Valley Gutters No. 2 8,000 16,000
11 Wire nails (assorted) Kg 10 4,000 40,000
12 Roofing nails Kg 25 6,000 150,000
13 Rubber washers Pkt 3 8,000 24,000
14 Rain gutters (complete with accessories) m 15 10,000 150,000
15 Hoop iron for connecting timber Roll 1 65,000 65,000
F Scaffolding 60,000
1 12"x1" timber ("kirundu" ) for platforms
2 2"-3" Eucalyptus poles Item 1 60,000 60,000
3 Assorted wire nails
G Doors & Windows 1,335,000

1 Standard solid timber door No. 4 150,000 600,000
2 Standard solid timber window No. 5 120,000 600,000
3 Vents No. 3 45,000 135,000
H Miscellaneous Items 550,000

1 DPC (bituminous felt) Roll 2 10,000 20,000
2 Lime for plastering Bag 5 20,000 100,000
3 Hollow steel pipes (60x2mm) No. 2 40,000 80,000
4 Painting m2 140 2,500 350,000
I TOTAL 8,557,500
1 Labour (20% of Total less preliminaries) Item 0.2 8,276,000 1,655,200
2 General Contigency (5% of Total less prelim.) Item 0.05 8,276,000 413,800
J GRAND TOTAL 10,626,500
5,000Lts ISSB Water Tank Item 1 750,000 750,000 750,000
1-Stance VIP Latrine Item 1 1,770,000 1,770,000 1,770,000
OVERALL COST 13,146,500

GET Draft ISSB Construction Manual (Final - 2)

Uploaded by

Document Information

Original Description:

Original Title

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

GET Draft ISSB Construction Manual (Final - 2)

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

Interlocking Stabilised Soil

Draft Construction Manual

Part I: Planning, Setting-out and

D.1 Building Plan

D.2 Good Quality ISSBs

• Dry Compressive Strength of blocks at 28 days ≥ 2.5 N/mm2;

• Wet Compressive Strength of blocks at 28 days ≥ 1.5 N/mm2;

• Rapture Strength of blocks at 28 days ≥ 0.5 N/mm2;

• Water Absorption of blocks ≤ 15 per cent of the original mass;

• [Dry] Density of blocks ≥ 1600 Kg/m3;

• Weathering loss of mass ≤ 15 per cent of the original mass;

STRAIGHT DOUBLE INTERLOCKING BLOCK

PLAN Coordinating Dimensions: 266 x 140 x 95 mm

Fig D.2 ISSB Dimensions

E.2 Site Clearance

Fig E.2 Site Clearance Plan

E.3 Setting Out

Fig E.3b Profile Set-up

Stripped ground level

A: Stable soil B: Unstable soil

Stripped ground level Wooden rammer

6"x2" or 4"x2" 1200 mm

Fig F.2 Gauge Box for Measuring Materials

G.3 ISSB Parts

G.4 Single Wall

95mm (b) 2nd , 4th , 6th , 8th … Course Plan 8th

(c) ISSB Gauge Rod (d) Elevated Wall

G.5 Double Wall

G.6 Plinth Wall Construction

Stripped ground level ≥200 mm Backfill in layers not exceeding

G.7 Ground Slab

rendered externally to at least

No “splash apron” but part of Finished floor level 25mm Screed

H.2 Corners/Wall Intersections

Fig H.2 Common Wall Intersections / Junctions

H.2.1 the “L” Junction

Trim dotted 6th

Use mortar here Use mortar here 3rd

Cut tail Cut head Main wall Use mortar here

Mortar Metal Strips

Fig H.2.2e Plan of Long Wall with Piers

H.2.3 the “+” Junction

Cut head Main wall Use mortar here

Mortar Mortar Mortar

Use mortar here Use mortar here

H.2.5 Stopped Ends, Door and Window Openings

Flat bars attached to a

Fig H.2.5a ISSB Window Frame with Wall Anchors

Cut Cut 10th

Window Opening in ISSB Wall

Fig H.2.5b Stopped End / Opening in ISSB Wall

H.3 Super-structure Wall Construction

H.3.1 Layout, Door Openings and First Course

H.3.2 Raising the Walls

Use a water level to Use a water level to

Mortar Fig G.3.2 Raising the Walls

H.4 Ring Beam / Bond Beam and Formwork

Tying wire/bar protruding out of beam

Reinforcement wire (Y10 & R5)

100 mm Use 3" nail here

50x25x140 mm timber struts, 600 mm apart

Fig H.4a ISSB Ring Beam Formwork in Cross-section