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or ages hair has been a source of both pride and Swastik Perfumed Castor Hair Oil, and Parachute
despair for mankind. And, in a tropical country Coconut. The three brands of hair creams tested comprised
like India, hair oil has been a product of regular, Brylcreem Dandruff Control Hair Cream, Brylcreem
if not daily, use for health, hygiene and beauty care. We Protein Plus Styling Hair Cream and Clinic Active Hair
have a big market, a number of brands, a wide range of Grooming Cream.
manufacturers’ claims — factual or otherwise. The
choice of the right brand makes the consumers rack Indian Standards
their brains. If you too are among them, we’ve tried to Under Schedule S (Rule 150-A) of the Drugs and
make your task easier. Cosmetics Rules, 1945, hair oils and hair creams must
conform to the specifications laid down by the Bureau of
This Test Report speaks about the myths and facts Indian Standards (BIS). The hair oils were tested as per IS
behind hair oils and hair creams, tested by our in-house 7123:1993 (IInd revision) specifications for their
laboratory to ascertain whether they deliver what they properties as hair oil. The hair creams were tested as per IS:
claim to. 7679: 1978.
Key Findings
Hair Oils you the least when price and quantity * We recommend Shanti Amla Hair Oil as
* We tested 13 brands of hair oil. were considered. our ‘Best Buy’, based on its reasonable
* The tests were carried out as per IS: * The IS specifications for microbial price and a good overall score.
7123: 1993 specifications for hair oil, the parameter permits not more than 1000
Weights and Measures (Packaged micro-organisms (bacterial growth) per Hair Creams
Commodities) Rules,1977 and the Drugs gram of oil. The microbial limit is * We tested 3 brands of hair creams -
and Cosmetics Act of 1940. Brylcreem Protein Plus, Brylcreem
established for safety of the product.
* The peroxide value is prescribed to check Dandruff Control and Clinic Active.
Parachute Coconut Oil (2300) did not
the rancidity of hair oil. The higher the * The tests were carried out as per IS:
conform to the IS requirements.
oxidation, the greater the chances of 7679: 1978 specifications for hair
* Two brands of hair oils, namely,
emission of an unpleasant rancid odour. creams, the Weights and Measures
Parachute Coconut Oil and
Jabakusum Taila (11.50) and Swastik (Packaged Commodities) Rules,1977
Jabakusum Taila, were found to be
Perfumed Castor Hair Oil (17.12) did and the Drugs and Cosmetics Act of
having suspended particles. 1940.
not comply with the IS specification for
the peroxide value limit of 0-10 * The colour of the oil varied in different * All the brands met with all the
milliequivalents (meq) per 1000 gram. batches of Banphool Oil. requirements as per the standards.
* The Standards of Weights and Measures * Our panellists also tested the hair oil * Brylcreem Dandruff Control tops the
(Packaged Commodities) Rules 1977 brands for performance, fragrance and chart with an overall score of 72, followed
specify the maximum permissible error appearance and easiness of spreading in by Brylcreem Protein Plus (70) and
on declared net quantity (volume) by 6.75 the sensory tests. On a 5-point scale Clinic Active (61).
ml for 150 ml. Dabur Vatika Premium attributed to overall liking, Dey’s Keo * Our panellists also tested the hair creams
Coconut Hair Oil recorded an average Karpin Hair Oil scored the highest at for performance, fragrance and
weight of 141.7 ml. This was less than the 83, while Swastik Perfumed Castor stickiness in the sensory tests. On a 5-
permissible error. Hair Oil (48) scored the least. point scale for overall liking, Clinic
* Unjust Enrichment : While Shanti Amla * Clinic Plus Coconut Hair Oil and New Active scored the highest at (76)
gave more than the labelled weight and Nihar Coconut Amla Hair Oil achieved followed by Brylcreem Dandruff
New Nihar Coconut gave the labelled the highest overall score with 91, followed Control (71) and Brylcreem Protein
weight, all the other 11 brands gave less by Marico’s Hair & Care and Parachute Plus (64).
than their labelled weight. Jabakusum * With a good overall score and a
Jasmine (90) each in the second position
Taila and Swastik Castor — two of the reasonable price Brylcreem Dandruff
and Bajaj Almond Drops (87) in the third
three non-conforming brands — gave Control Hair Cream is our ‘Best Buy’.
position.
KEY
P Conforming
Source mentioned,
type not mentioned
+ Gain
8 INSIGHT-The Consumer Magazine SEP-OCT 2004 INSIGHT-The Consumer Magazine SEP-OCT 2004 9
Brand/Standards Rank Overall Price per CHEMICAL TESTS NET CONTENT SENSORY SCORE Key
score 100 ml* Chemical Acid Peroxide Micro- As As on (Wtd. Does not conform
(Rs.) score value value bial measured the label (Wtd. score) Among all the brands
(Wtd. score) value (in ml) (in ml) score) N.A Not applicable
tested, Clinic Plus
Poor (less then 59) Coconut (91) and New
HAIR OIL IS : 7123 : 1993 NMT NMT NMT
1.0 10meq/ 1000/g Average (60-69) Nihar Coconut Amla
1000g Good (70-79)
(91) scored the highest,
followed by Hair & Care
CONFORMING Very Good (80-89) (90) and Parachute
Clinic Plus Coconut
New Nihar Coconut Amla } 1
1
91
91
19.50
19.50
46.82
46.87
0.16
0.16
0.31
0.28
0
0
99.7
98.8
100
100
10.0
9.9
80
79
24.0
23.8
Excellent (above 90)
Jasmine (90).
Bajaj Almond Drops 3 87 28.00 45.98 0.16 0.81 0 98.9 100 9.9 71 21.3 s c o r e a n d Based on the performance
reasonable price of the hair oils and creams in
Shanti Amla 4 86 16.00 44.82 0.21 1.01 0 100.3 100 10.0 72 21.6 Shanti Amla is our the sensory and chemical
tests as well as their labelling
Keo Karpin 5 84 24.00 39.53 0.25 3.78 0 98.6 100 9.9 83 25.0 'Best Buy' among hair
information, we rated them
Dabur Amla 6 79 25.00 37.65 0.59 1.51 0 98.2 100 9.8 73 21.8 oils. Among hair as per their weighted scores
creams, Brylcreem in the individual tests.
New Nihar Coconut Oil 7 74 15.00 33.77 0.95 0.24 0 100 100 10.0 67 20.1 Dandruff Control
Cantharidine 8 70 23.90 30.55 0.49 6.77 0 98.99 100 9.9 67 20.0 Hair Cream is our For rating and ranking the
‘Best Buy’. brands we decided to give
50 per cent to chemical
NON-CONFORMING tests, 30 per cent to sensory
Jabakusum Taila - 56 36.00 21.33 0.57 11.50 0 96.03 100 9.6 51 15.2 tests and 20 per cent to
packing, marking and net
Swastik Perfumed Castor Hair Oil - 48 23.67 13.97 0.45 17.12 0 294.95 300 9.8 48 14.4 content as measured.
Parachute Coconut - 45 17.50 2.92 0.43 0.95 2300 99.55 100 10.0 75 22.4 All the chemical parameters
carry equal weightages. The
HAIR CREAM** IS : 7679 : 1978 per 75 pH value (in gm) (in gm) conforming products were
gm 5.0 - 9.0 finally ranked on the basis of
CONFORMING the individual scores thus
detailed.
Brylcreem Dandruff Control 1 72 38.00 30.9 7.4 NA 0 75.24 75 10.0 71 21.18
Brylcreem Protein Plus 2 70 36.00 31.0 7.4 NA 0 74.68 75 10.0 64 19.26
Clinic Active 3 61 30.75 18.1 7.0 NA 0 51.27 50 10.0 76 22.8
* Price at the time of purchase and calculated for 100 ml.
WEIGHTAGE 50% 20%³ 30% ** The hair creams were also tested for thermal stability,
rancidity, total fatty substance and water content and were
found to be conforming to IS specifications.
Indian Standards not applicable to the following brands. Hence not rated and ranked: ³ Weighted score for all brands for packing and marking was
AYURVEDIC HAIR OIL (in ml) (in ml) 10 and has been included in the overall score.
Description : As per IS, hair oil shall be colourless or
Dabur Vatika Premium Hair Oil 24.00 0.44 0.52 0 141.7 150 73 coloured, with or without perfume, free from sediments
Himani’s Navratna Oil 39.00 1.44 4.54 0 96.5 100 63 and suspended matter at 27°C and from unpleasant
rancid odour. It shall contain suitable anti-oxidants, if
Banphool Oil 38.00 6.08 6.03 0 100.4 100 62 necessary, to prevent it from developing unpleasant
Himtaj Oil 40.00 7.7 5.90 0 100.1 100 54 rancid odour at the time of its actual use. Jabakusum
Taila was found to be having sedimentary deposit in the
oil. Parachute Coconut Oil had suspended matter in the
DE-TANGLERS form of fibrous growth in it. The colour of Banphool Oil was
found to be different in different batches. Jabakusum
Livon Silky Potion 140.00 0 0.05 0 99.89 100 79 Taila and Swastik Perfumed Castor Hair Oil were also
Silk-n-Shine 98.00 0.03 0.04 0 49.45 50 80 found giving off a stale rancid odour in the sensory test.
Does Oil Help?
Opinions are divided on this front. It almost borders on a
gen war — the modern vs the ancient! The new generation
vouch that hair oil is no good. It eats up all the image with
the plastered look. Mind you, they however endorse the
gel look! Ask any veteran and pat comes the reply —
Definitely yes!
Oils have their own particular properties and benefits. Olive oil helps to restore the
natural acid mantle of the scalp and keeps it healthy. Castor oil restores the health of
hair that has suffered damage through the use of chemical dyes or overuse of hair
dryers. Coconut oil not only improves the texture of hair, but is said to help hair
growth.
contd...from pg. 12
indeed been a heritage product and quality control team should check the conform to all the requirements of the
also used on hair. The ORG originality of our samples or of the IS. As the IS mentions “marking” as
categorises coconut oil as such, not findings reached by us. one of the parameters, we checked all
as a hair oil. Mere categorisation by Insight : We purchased all our products products from the IS standpoint.
the ORG restricts the uses of pure for testing from authorised dealers to
coconut oil in the consumer's mind. ensure their genuineness. We also (The manufacturers of New Nihar
We wonder how many consumers forwarded the details of purchases, Coconut Oil, New Nihar Coconut
read ORG reports and then make bills, etc. to the company. Amla Hair Oil, Clinic Plus Coconut
buying decisions. Hair Oil, Dey’s Keo Karpin Hair Oil,
Insight: The company states that Standard Mark Dabur Amla Hair Oil, Cantharidine
Parachute Coconut Oil is an edible * Marico’s said, quoting the BIS, “the Hair Oil, Himani Navratna Oil,
oil and does not follow the IS containers may also be marked with a Himtaj Oil, Banphool Oil, Brylcreem
standard, but fully complies with Standard Mark”. This shows, Protein Plus Styling Hair Cream,
the PFA requirements. As the according to Marico’s, that it is not a Brylcreem Dandruff Control Hair
c o m p a n y i t s e l f h a s a g re e d , mandatory requirement. Cream and Clinic Active Hair
Parachute Coconut Oil is also Insight: As per the IS, marking may not Grooming Cream did not respond till
used on hair. So we are justified in be mandatory, but all products must the time of going to press.)
testing it as per IS:7123:1993. As
regards the company’s comment
on the number of consumers going Areas Of Action * The BIS has done away with the
by the ORG data, and buying, by and * The BIS should draw up standards for labelling information on the ‘best use
large they do not read ORG reports de-tanglers, since they have already before’ and the expiry date for
before buying. On the contrary, entered the market and are being products less than 10 ml./25 gm or
ORG reports are compiled on the marketed as products to be used on those with a shelf-life of over 24
basis of consumers’ behaviour. hair. months. But consumers would not
Understandably so, as the ORG is a * Since hair oils are products of mass know whether a product has more
research group and not meant to consumption and all manufacturers than 24 months of shelf-life. Also, the
guide consumers. make several claims the BIS should mere manufacturing date will not
formulate performance standards. show whether the product has
Duplication of Parachute * The BIS should ensure that any brand become rancid or not. The BIS
Coconut Oil may be allowed to make therapeutic should, therefore, ensure that either
* Marico’s said that as adulteration and claims provided they substantiate the ‘best use before’ or the expiry
duplication of its brand are rampant, its them. date be put on the label.
17
HAIR CARE
What the Experts Say
Andrew Bernie of London’s Trichological
Clinic in The Daily Mail has offered few Claims & Beliefs Experts’ Opinion*
helpful tips to troubleshoot hair problems..
Cures headache Hair oil is applied externally and has very little
* Dandruff: A dandruff-ridden dry scalp
may mean too little zinc. Eat more pulses,
and migraine penetration through the scalp. Headaches occur from
seeds, shellfish and meat. nerve cells of the brain covered by the skull. Oil can hardly
* Greasy Hair: Try cutting down on sugary penetrate the skull.
foods. wash your hair often with the
mildest shampoo available. Stops hair fall, Hair oil acts as a scalp coating for the hair. It prevents it
* Lacklustre Hair: This could mean a grows lovely hair from external damage like dust, UV rays, etc. The oil
Vitamin A deficiency. Eat 2-3 eggs a week and keeps scalp also prevents dehydration of the scalp as the oil film
and plenty of carrots, dried apricots and cool. prevents retention of moisture. However, only medicated
dark green leafy vegetables. hair oil containing vaso dilators like ‘Minoxidil’ which help
* Stress: This is not a direct cause of hair to reduce the blood pressure, may prevent hair fall.
loss but can worsen it. Stressed people
are often low in B-vitamins. Eat more
whole grain cereal, oily fish, yoghurt, An effective If hair oil was as effective, it would have been a
eggs and milk. memory aid prescribed drug for physically challenged people as
* Hair loss: If you are taking contraceptive well as Alzheimer patients. Only massaging may act as
pills and suffer hair loss, ask your doctor
a soother, releasing the tensed muscles, giving relief
about changing formula with less
from headaches, and increasing the blood circulation in
progesterone.
the scalp. This also keeps the hair roots strong.
* Diet: Maintaining a correct iron level is
vital for hair growth. If you don’t eat red
Changing hair oil Yes, it can, because, hair oil may differ from brand to
meat, take a supplement.
from one brand to brand in composition and the additives may not be
another and from very suitable for all users.
Manufacturers' Addresses one type to ano-
1. a) New Nihar Coconut Oil
ther damages hair.
Mfd. by: Recon Oil Ind. Ltd.18-2-5/2/1,
Chandrayangutta, Hyderabad-5 Hair oil is necessary No. Hair oil can only make it easier to comb hair and
b) New Nihar Coconut Amla Hair Oil, &
c) Clinic Plus Coconut Hair Oil for nourishment and prevent it from getting knotted. A healthy diet
Mfd. by:Beta Cosmetics, 111/1/1, protection. nourishes the hair.
66 KVA Road, Amli, Silvassa-396230
d) Clinic Active Hair Grooming Cream
Mfd. by: Hindustan Lever Ltd, E-3,
MIDC, Yavatmal, Maharastra-445001 A hundred strokes a No. To increase blood supply to hair, gently massage the
Mktd. by :Hindustan Lever Limited, day will make hair scalp for a few minutes every day.
165/166 Backbay Reclamation
Mumbai - 400020 long and healthy.
2. a) Parachute Coconut Oil
Mfd.& Pkd. by: Marico Industries Ltd. * Our panel of experts comprised, among others, Dr Bharat Shah, a city based
Survey No.71 & 72/1, Khandepar, Ponda,
Goa-403406 - Consultant Dermatologist, Dr. R. Ranganathan
b) Parachute Jasmine
Mfd. by: Prudent Arts & Fab Pvt. Ltd.
(www.swapnahairenricher.com) and Dr. C. J. Shishoo, former Principal, L.M.
A/221, Mahape, MIDC, TTC Area, College of Pharmacy & Trustee, Laboratory.
Navi Mumbai - 400701
c) Marico's Hair & Care, &
d) Shanti Amla Hair Oil 6. Cantharidine Hair Oil Mktd. by : G-1, Came Ind.
Mfd. by:New Horizons D-18, Phase 1, IDA, Mfd. by: Bengal Chemicals & Dabur India Ltd., Area Walbhat Road,
Jeedimetla, Hyderabad -55 Pharmaceuticals Ltd. 22 Site lV, Shahibabad, Goregaon (E), Mumbai 63
e) Hair & Care's Silk-n-Shine 502, Veer Navarkar Marg Ghaziabad (U.P.) 201010 13. Livon Silky Potion
Mfd. & Pkd by: Ameya Packaging, B-2/A, UPSIDC, Prabhadevi, Mumbai - 25 9. Himani Navratna Oil Mfd. by: Paras
Selakui, Dehradun, Uttranchal -248197 7. Swastik Castor Oil Mfd. by: Emami Ltd. Pharmaceuticals
Mktd. by : Marico Industries Ltd. Mfd. by: Swastik Surfactants A-83, Pipdic Ind. Estate, Limited
'Rang Sharda', K.C. Marg, Bandra (W), Ltd. Shed A1, M-51., 100 Mettupalayam, Pondicherry- 1/7 GIDC Estate, Kalol,
Mumbai - 400050 Sheds, Chanod, Silvasa 605009 (N.G.) 382 725
3. Bajaj Almond Drops Road, 10.Himtaj Oil 14. a) Brylcreem Dandruff
Mfd. by : Vima Cosmetic Ind. GIDC, Vapi - 396 195 Mfd. by: Pandit Control Cream, &
Block No.1441, Dabhasa-391440 8. a) Dabur Vatika Dwarkaprasad Sharma, b) Brylcreem Protein
Mktd. by : bajaj consumers care ltd. Mfd. by: Dabur Nepal Pvt. Vaidya Bhushan, P.O. Plus Styling Cream
Old Station Road,Udaipur, Rajasthan- 313001 Ltd., Rampur Tokani, Bara Bazar, Naurhiya, Jaunpur, Mfd. by: Sara Lee H &
4. Dey's Keo Karpin Hair Oil Distt., Nepal U.P. BC India (P) Ltd.
Mfd. by: Dey's Medical Stores Pvt. Ltd., b) Dabur Amla Works : 66/6, R. Sarani, E-7, Industrial Estate
1B, Deodar Street, Kolkata - 700019 Mfd. by: Burman Labs. Rishra, Hooghly Maraimalai Nagar-
5. Jabakusum Taila Pvt. Ltd 11. Banphool Oil Chennai - 603209
C.K. Sen & Co. Pvt. Ltd. 101, Indl. Area, Maksi, Distt. Mfd. by: Himtaj Ayurved
34, Chittaranjan Avenue, Kolkata - 700 012 Shajapur, Pvt. Ltd,
MP -465106 Mehta House, For queries write to us at
editorialinsight@yahoo.co.in