LEARN STITCHING

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LEARN STITCHING

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The newest user-friendly machine w/
* chest = 91 cm cutting-edge technology. Find one
* full length = 38 cm
* Across back = 35 cm

FRONT PART
* A - B = full length = 38 cm
* A-C = armhole =(chest/4)-4 =(91-4)/4
=18.7cm
* C-D = chest loose =(chest/4)+2.5
=(91/4)+2.5= 25.2cm
* A-I = front part = chest/3 = 91/3 = 30.3cm Followers
* A-E = shoulder = AB/2 = 35/2 = 17.5 cm
* A-F = Neck Breadth = (chest/12)+1.5 = 9 cm

In the princess blouse model sew the main darts straight opposite
shoulders and side darts in the arm hole to have the cup shape to
fit the breast part. Attach the front and back parts and sew a zip
on the back side...

copyright @ 2010

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ANARKALI CHURIDAR
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LEARN STITCHING

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Hi guys, this is an anarkali model churidar

which i sewed recently. Let me explain u the
model. Its a kinda churidar in which the top is a
combination of a princess blouse and a
umbrella skirt. Ive already discussed them
seperately, plz check them for verification.

The blouse is similar to the sari blouse model

but i didnt use the patti part (it depends, if u
wish u can for the stiffness around the lower
breast)

Ive used 2 types of cloth one is a dark brown

cloth for the breast(1m) and pant(2m) another
one is the light cotton material(5m) for the
umbrella part and the sleeves.

Ok the above picture is the breast part in which

front and the back sides are cut and i have
LEARN STITCHING

sewed 2 darts on either side of the front part

one is opposite shoulders and other is on the
armhole. Then join the shoulders.

Fine now lets come to the umbrella part, First u

need to decide the lenght of the umbrella part.
Mine is
breast length = 13" (" --> inch)
umbrella length = 30" + 5" for waist
plz check how to sew a umbrella frock , so for
this u need to have a square shaped cloth(all
sides equal length) and u have to fold it twice
as in the above pic. As u are folding the cloth
twice, the full size should be 70 inches length
and breadth[(30+5)*2] .

U'll not get material of the same length and

breadth so u need to cut the cloth and attach
them according to the size. It will be best if u
prepare a pattern first.
LEARN STITCHING

So the above is the umbrella bottom , i have

used 5 inches for the waist and 30 inches for
the length *(total length of the cloth is the twice
of it i.e, 70 inch) next draw the semicircle at a
distance of 5th inch and 35th inch and then cut
them.

Now unfold the cloth u'll get an beautiful

umbrella shape and make sure the joining of
both parts are of equal size and then attach
them as shown below....

pattern

Then finally attacth sleeves and finish the neck

part using cross piece. Okay so i hope i look
nice in my new anarkali salwar.

I spent Rs.750 and took a day to sew it. If ur

trying it for the first time, plz start with a pattern
LEARN STITCHING

else for sure u'll make mistake. Hope u

enjoyed my tutor. bye guys....

copyright @ 2010

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How to cut and sew a armhole

Armhole is a very typical area where a perfect pattern and
measurements help you to sew your sleeve perfectly.

If you find any difficulty in the armhole area, let me give you a
detail description. In the above diagram
(measurements in inch)

C-D = chest loose= (chest/4)+1.5"

A-F = neck breadth=(chest/12)+.5"

LEARN STITCHING

F-E = shoulder breadth= 2.5 or 3.5 inches

E-E' =armhole length (join E to E')

Then draw two curves at the distance of one

and two inches as shown in the pattern.
First you need to mark chest loose then
mark the neck breadth and the shoulder
breadth , next mark a straight line from E to
the chest loose line(CD) i.e E-E' , that gives
you the armhole length and E'-D is
armhole breadth.

Next thing is that you have to draw two

curves at a distance of one inch and two
inch. The outer curve is at a distance of two
inch and thats the mark where you have to
cut for the back part of the blouse. The inner
curve which is at a distance of one inch is
the mark for the front part and you have to
cut the armhole at the inner curve. This is
how you have to cut the armhole. I hope it
helps you get a better understanding.

copyright @ 2010

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TYPES OF NEEDLES

People who are involved in sewing should be aware of the types of

needles that exists.There are different kinds of needles available in
LEARN STITCHING

market. Let us see them.

needle no-7

needle no-8

needle no-9

needle no-17

needle no-18

needle no-22

NEEDLE NO-7 ,8,9 These types of needles are used to sew with
hands. Starters who wish to learn embroidery can use these types
of needles.

NEEDLE NO-17 This needle is used for embroidery on canvass

cloths. It is used to put embroidery on tough thick cloths.

NEEDLE NO-18 This needle is used for tarning purpose. The

opposite ends of the needle are bigger. Particularly it is used in
woolen cloths to do knitting work.

NEEDLE NO-22 This is used for embroidery works. It has sharper

ends and smaller length.

KINDS OF NEEDLE

sharps - n0. 7,9

betweens - no. 8,6

embroidery -no.7,9

darners -no.18,5

tapestry -no.17,22

chenille -n0.18

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HOW TO SEW CUTTORI BLOUSE

LEARN STITCHING

A cuttori blouse is slightly different from the normal saree blouse.

Cuttori blouses are used normally to mingle two colours in the front
part. Now i will teach the pattern for the cuttori blouse.

First step is to learn the normal blouse if else

you'll find it difficult so take a look at the sari
blouse post. Only one step modification is
made in the cuttori blouse compared to the
normal blouse. Now draw the pattern for a
normal blouse. The small cut is for neck and
the long cut is for armhole.

From the shoulder measure 12 inch and draw a

straight line . In the above image you can see
the red line at a distance of 12 inch. Next mark
1/2 inch above on both ends of red line and below center of red
line. Next draw a curve over the red line, i've used the blue pen to
draw the curve.

Next cut along the blue curve. This the procedure of the normal
blouse. Next for the cuttori blouse you have to draw one more
curve and cut it like the image below. This is their difference.
LEARN STITCHING

From the neck take a curve to the blue line curve. You can see the
red curve i've drawn. Thats the only difference in cuttori blouse.

Next cut along the red curve and only one main
dart is sewed in that part. You can see a
triangle shape thats the place where you have
to sew dart. You can use a contrast colour or
the same colour. Have a perfect pattern which
helps you to cut the cloth correctly.

After sewing the dart stitch them together so

that agains comes back to the shape of normal
blouse. Then attach the patti part and finish the
whole blouse. Best of luck.

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TYPES OF CLOTH
Cloths are the basic part of sewing. Sewers should know the
varieties of cloth exist. Below the types of cloths and their qualities
are discussed. Cloths are of three types

vegetable fibre
LEARN STITCHING

animal fibre

synthetic fibre

Vegetable fibres are got through natural ways i.e., plants and trees.
Cotton is a very good example of this type. Lots of people use
cotton day to day which is available in rates of all range.

Animal fibre- woolen,leather can be used as animal fibre. The

basic source is animal. Anima skins are used to prepare cloths.
Some insects are used to produce silk threads. W oolen is of three
types.

carpet wool

Kasmir wool

goat fibre

Carpet wool is taken from sheeps. These kinds are used to

produce carpets that are used for various purpose.
Kasmir wool is very soft. It is produced from the kashmir sheeps.
These wool are very famous for their softness and shine.
Goat fibre is taken from the angora goat. This is of two types

wool

worsted wool

Synthetic fibre are prepared by artificial means. Today synthetic

fibre has taken a very good place in the field of market. Many
people use synthetic fibre.

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HOW TO SEW CHURIDAR PANT

This is a pant with some gatherings near the foot. This is also
known as gathering pant. This pant has long thin legs so that you
can make gatherings near the feet. I've used a sample pant to sew
it.
LEARN STITCHING

The above figure is the stitching pattern for this

pant. You have to cut the a-b part and b-e part
seperately and finally attach them together. In
the picture below i've cut the b-e part first. As
the cloth is not so long we have to cut the b-e
part first then in the remaining cloth we have to
cut the a-b part.

Now fold the cloth breadthwise then lengthwise and then place the
sample pant on top of it like shown in the above picture. You can
notice i have marked the outline using marking chalk. Next cut
along the marking chalk like the one below.

Next unfold the cloth you'll get seperate two legs. Stitch the sides
and join them together.
Next in the remaining cloth we have to cut the a-b part.
LEARN STITCHING

In the pattern the b-d part is longer than the b-g

part so we have to keep gatherings in the b-d
part and make it to the equal length of b-g part(
refer pattern). Thats wat i have done and made
both joining parts of equal diameter. You can
see some gatherings in the b-d part. These
gatherings will come around the hip so that the
cloth will comfortably fit your hip.

Next you can join them. Leave a small loop in the a-c part to pass
the thread. After joining the pant is completed.

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LEARN STITCHING

HOW TO SEW NECK

Neck is an important part of the dress. The way you sew the neck
shows u how far your good in sewing. A neat finishing of the neck
gives you a complete dress. There are lots of method to sew
neck(another method is crosspiece). The method below is one of
its kind.

Always a separate cloth should be attached to

sew neck. In the diagram below the light cream
colour cloth with stripes is the main cloth where
you have to sew neck. As the main cloth is
transparent i've attached another orange colour
cloth(lining material). It also gives thickness so
that the dress will work for a long time.

Now im going to sew neck with the lining

material. If your going to sew neck only with the
main cloth then take a small square shaped
cloth. Now cut either the main cloth or lining
cloth in the shape of neck u want. In the image
above i've cut only the neck of the lining cloth.
To the front view of the main cloth sew the lining
cloth . Remember first put stitches along the
shoulders then along the shape of the neck
carefully as shown in the image.
LEARN STITCHING

Next cut the neck of the main cloth along the shape of the neck.
Now as the lining cloth is on top of the main cloth , you have turn
the lining cloth to the other end so that the main part is visible.

In the above image i've turned the lining cloth and im putting
stitches on top of the neck. Slowly and carefully put sitches on top
of the neck and then finaly u'll finish the neck like the one below.

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DARTS
LEARN STITCHING

In the above
diagram you can
see coloured markings, these are called darts. You sew
darts to get the desirable shape of the body. Darts are
mostly used in women’s breast part to get the exact shape.

1. In the above diagram A is the cloth where we gonna

stitch dart. Fold the cloth at the point E (like closing
LEARN STITCHING

a note).
2. Next the cloth will look like the diagram B , now see
the line CO , that’s the line where you have to put
stitches. That’s it . This is called dart. By stitching
the CO line you are hiding a small part of cloth so
that a U shape can be formed.
3. Next unfold the cloth , now you can see a U shape
where you can fit your breast exactly.

Darts can be stitched in the armhole , opposite to the

shoulder. If you don’t stitch darts then you cannot get the
cone or U shape to fit your breast.

In the blouse below the cone shape is formed using darts.

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WOMEN'S PHYSICAL STRUCTURE

The truth is that a women's body shape is not compared with
another women's body shape. Anyways the variation of size in a
women's body must be learnt and a women's body size should be
compared according to it.

breast size = 33"

waist size = 26"

hip size = 37"

According to the nature of science the difference between breast

size and hip size is 4 inch. Basically a women should have 4 inch
difference.

breast size = 35"

waist size = 28"

hip size = 38"

According to the above measurement , the breast and hip size vary
LEARN STITCHING

3 inch.

breast size = 37"

waist size = 30"

hip size = 41"

breast size = 39"

waist size = 32"

hip size = 43"

The above measurements have a difference of 4 inch between

breast and hip. From the above examples remember that the
difference between the breast size and hip size is 3 to 4 inch.
W omen with breast size 41, 43, 45, 47 inch will have breast and
hip size difference of 5 inch. Now we can also find the difference
between hip and waist size.

hip size = 37"

waist size = 26"

difference = 11"

hip size = 38"

waist size = 28"

difference = 10"

From the above measurements when comparing the hip and waist
size we get 10 to 11 inch difference. W omens waist part is 10 to 11
inch smaller than the hip part. W omens figure is classified into 3
types.

NORMAL FIGURE

W omen having equal size difference between the breast , waist

and hip parts are referred as normal figure. If the womens size
difference follows the above measurements than it is normal
figure.

LEAN FIGURE

W omen having this kind of figure will have lesser measurements

compared to the normal figure. The size variation between parts
will be smaller compared to the normal figure. Women with this
kind of figure is called lean figure.

STOUT STRUCTURE

W omen with this kind of structure will have size greater than the
normal figure. These people are fat people.

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HOW TO SEW NECK - CROSSPIECE METHOD.

LEARN STITCHING

Crosspiece is one of the method used to sew neck. Crosspiece

requires only a small piece of cloth. Crosspiece means cutting the
cloth in the cross direction and not in the straight direction.

Take a cloth crosswise and pull it on both sides

, the cloth expands but when you pull it straight
the cloth will not expand because the threads
are aligned very close without any gap. W hen
you pull crosswise the cloth expands because
there exists some gaps between the threads.

W e use cross piece so that the cloth can be

expanded to the maximum and can be attached
to the neck . If the cloth is cut straight then the
cloth will not expand and so we have to cut
large length of cloth. To avoid this we use cross piece. For sari
blouse , cross piece is the only method used for neck. No other
method is appropriate to indian sari blouse.

In the image below , take the cloth to be cut. Draw parallel lines of
distance one inch (beginners use 2 inch distance) in a cross way
manner and not straight.

Use marking chalk to draw lines and then cut along the lines. Join
all pieces together. Next fold oneside and stitch throughout the
piece. After you fold one side, the unfolded side of the crosspiece
have to be attached to the outer neck (view part or front part).
LEARN STITCHING

The image shows you how to attach the unfolded end to the neck.
Put stitches close to the unfolded end.

After you attach the unfold end to the neck again the crosspiece
have to be folded like closing the note book. Put stitches on top of
it. See the diagram below.

After you fold the cross piece like closing the

note book again you have to fold the cross
piece once completely into the inner part of the
cloth. This is the final fold and the neck is ready
after this fold. In the diagram below i've folded
the crosspiece to the inner part of the dress and
stitches are been put on top of it.

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LEARN STITCHING

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SCALE MEASUREMENT
In the art of tailoring , the scale measurement is very
important. People who learn sewing should learn and
understand the scale measurement . The sewing teacher is
responsible for the students to make them understand the
scale measurement effectively.
Now let’s see how to take the scale measurement.
Breast measurement = 36 inch = 36/2 = 18 inch
Scale measurement = 18 inch
The above following method is used to find the scale
measurement for women. Women’s drawer is also measured
in the same way.
Hip measurement = 38 inch = 38/2 =19 inch
Scale measurement = 19 inch
According to the scale measurement in London , sewing
school uses the word ‘scale’ whereas the American sewing
school use the word ‘ Drafting Power’. After the scale
measurement is made, the calculations for the dress can be
made easily. Take for example the chest measurement is 36
inch ,
¼ of 36 inch = 9 inch
1/8 of 36 inch = 4 ½ inch
Scale measurement is 18 inch.
½ of 18 inch = 9 inch
¼ of 18 inch = 4 ½ inch
Hip measurement is 38 inch
scale measurement = 38/2 = 19 inch
½ of scale measurement = 19/2 = 9 ½ inch
inches to be added = 3 inch = 9 ½ “ + 3” = 12 ½
inch
Refer the stitching pattern post to have a clear idea about
the scale measurement. This method can also be used to sew
dresses for people who wear lower waist. Pants are stitched
in this method.

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SEW FROCK
LEARN STITCHING

Let me teach you how to sew a frock. In this image you can see a
frock and a pant. The kid can wear the frock alone else the pant
also.

This frock consists of two parts , the chest part

and the umbrella shaped skirt attached to it.
First draw the stitching pattern for all parts to
get a clear idea. Now take the cloth to be
stitched. Fold the cloth breadthwise then
lengthwise , place the stitching pattern and
mark the edges. Next cut along the corners like
the image below.

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Labels: FROCK, UMBRELLA CUT FROCK
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HOW TO SEW A PANT

Let us see how to sew a pant. Sewing a pant is very easy if

you know the basic ideas to stitch cloth. Now take a pant
that you have and fits you well. We’ll use the sample pant
first before stitching with measurement.
LEARN STITCHING

Now draw the stitching pattern using the sample pant.

A-b = ¼ waist measurement

C-d = ¼ hip measurement
E-f = ½ leg measurement

Measure your waist, hip and leg else use the sample pant
and draw the stitching pattern. Fold the cloth breadthwise
then lengthwise ,then place the pattern on the cloth. Mark
the edges using the marking chalk. Cut along the marking
place.

After you cut along the edges you get the cloth in the shape
of the stitching pattern. Unfold the cloth and you can see
two separate parts of each leg .Here i've used a bell bottom,
you can use a broad or narrow bottom as per your wish. Next
thing to be done is to join the open sides of the pant. Next
join the two parts of the pant. Stitch a small loop in the
waist for the thread to pass. That’s all simple easy pant is
ready.
LEARN STITCHING

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SEW
W omen who know stitching can make use of it to earn revenue.
These people should have sound knowledge of the stitching
methods. The art of stitching profectly to the Body shape is
required. So one should train themselves to stitch perfectly and
should have a very good understanding of all the stitching
methods. Tailor should have a compelete understanding of how to
measure

The dress have to be stitched exactly according to the

measurement and it should fit the human body finely. The
fundamental structure of the human body is the Skeleton. This is
called the primary structure of human anatomy. The Body around
the skeleton is called secondary structure of human anatomy.

The human body is divided into 4 parts.

Head
Body
Leg
Hand

The joins are of three types

Gliding joint
Ball And socket joint
Hinge joint

The spinal cord from the back neck looks like a chain . The spinal
cord starts from the back neck and ends till the hip like a chain

EIGHT HEAD POLICY

The human body’s head is considered as the fundamental to divide

the human body into eight heads or the eight head policy is
developed from the shape of the human body .

Let ‘s now see the eight head policy, they are as follows
Head
LEARN STITCHING

Brest
Stomach
Hip
Thigh
Knee
Calf
Leg bottom

Thus the head plays a major role in the women’s body to create
the eight Head policy. The measurement from the forehead to the
back neck(where the spinal cord starts) have to be taken. Based
on this measurement the whole body is divided into eight parts.

Leg structure is of three types.

Normal leg structure
Close leg structure
Open leg structure

The womens leg can be divided based on their leg structure

Normal leg
Close leg
Open leg

CLOSE LEG

The womens thighs are based on the hip measurement. Women

who have fleshy thighs will have different size, the body shape will
vary. According the the body shape women with fleshy thighs are
called close legs.

OPEN LEGS

W omen who don’t have equal measurements in their waist and hip
parts are discussed here. Womens hip part according to the equal
measurement of human body should have ten inch difference with
the waist measurement. If the womens hip part is more than ten
inch difference with the waist part then there’s lot of flesh in the hip
part.

Hip part is of three parts

Normal hip measure: there should be ten inch variation for the
waist and hip measurement
Flat hip measure : the waist and hip part have six to eight inch
variation
Stooping hip measure : The hip and waist have 11 to 13 inch
variation.

NOTE: according to the equal human measurement , the waist

part of womens body is smaller than the hip part. correctly and stitch
perfectly.

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HOW TO STITCH A CHURIDAR

LEARN STITCHING

This is the new churidar I stitched. This is a normal churidar but

I've cut the churidar into two parts and again joined them. Now
measure from the beginning of the shoulder till 13th inch. Cut at
the 13th inch horizontally so that you get two different parts, the
breast part and the part below breast. [Take a look at the older
churidar & salwar post to have a complete idea]

Just take the breast part , now im gonna sitich

darts so that cup shape is formed to fit the
breast exactly. Now stitch a small dart on the
armhole and the main dart straight to the
shoulder. Stitch darts on both sides of the front
piece, you can also stitch darts on the back
piece. A small dart straight to the shoulder is
enough. When you stitch darts on the front
piece don’t bring the darts closer so that you
don’t get a cone shape.Stitch darts of length 2
inch so that you get a u shape.

Next join the shoulders, stitch the sleeve and then stitch the neck.
It will be fine if you give cross piece to neck. After you finish the
breast part join it with the bottom part. Fold and stitch the bottoms
and sides.

This is the salwar matching to the above one. I’ve stitched a

normal salwar with some gatherings so that the hip part is
comfortable.
LEARN STITCHING

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HOW TO MEASURE WOMEN'S BODY

A women’s body can be measured based on their body shapes.
Inch tape is the major sewing tool used to measure body. Lets see
the measurement areas of a women.

1. Breast measurement
2. low breast measurement
3. waist measurement
4. hip measurement
5. full shoulder measurement
6. half shoulder measurement
7. neck measurement
8. sleeve length
9. hand measurement
10. front dress length
11. back dress length

The above measurements are required for a women. Based on the

costume, the required body parts can be measured. Now let’s see
the measurements needed for particular costumes.

For bra you need to take the following measurements

front body length

breast measurement
waist measurement

For blouse, shirt, tops you need to take measurements like

breast measurement
waist measurement
natural waist length
half shoulder length
sleeve length
front dress length
back dress length

To sew a pant, the measurements required are

leg length
waist measurement
hip measurement
thigh round measurement

W omen’s measurement is based on two main parts, the blouse

part and the pant part. So the measurements have to be taken
exactly according to the parts . The parts required alone must be
measured accurately to get a perfect sew. The measurements vary
according to the parts of the body. Let’s see how to find body rise
to stitch a pant. There are two types in finding the body rise , they
are :
LEARN STITCHING

Half of the hip measurement is body rise.

i.e , hip measurement = 39 inch = 39/3 = 13 inch

body rise = 13 inch

To stitch a drawer , first the length measurement has to be taken

then the person has to sit on a chair. Then measure from waist to
knee in the sitting posture. Add 1(1/2) inch.

i.e, hip measurement=36 inch

measurement taken in the sitting posture = 10(1/2)”
additional measurement= 1(1/2)”
so body rise=12inch

Follow the body rise measurement to stitch a comfortable pant.

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MEASUREMENTS
W omen’s measurements varies according to the parts of the body.
For example the breast and the waist measurements varies about
6 to 7 inches. Breast measurement and hip measurements varies
about 3 to 4 inch

The waist measurement and the hip measurement varies about 10

inch to 12 inch.
Let’s see the measurement variation in a women’s body.

Breast measurement 31
Low breast measurement 28
Waist measurement 25
Hip measurement 35

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TYPES OF MEASUREMENTS
Sewing includes two types of measurements. They are inch
measurement type and centimeter measurement type. These are
the two types of measurements that are followed in sewing
dresses. Measurements are based on major two types, they are as
follows:

1. British type
2. Metric type
British type follows the inch , foot measurement.

Metric type follows the millimeter, centimeter and meter

measurement.
LEARN STITCHING

In british type of measurement 1 inch is made up of 8 parts. Each

part represents ( 1/8' ) of 1 inch.
1/8" 1/4" 3/8" 1/2" 5/8" 3/4" 7/8" 1"

1 foot = 12 inch

3 foot = 36 inch

In british style of measurement 1 centimeter represents ten parts.

These ten parts are called millimeter. Ten millimeter(mm) makes
one centimeter(cm).

10 mm = 1 cm

100 cm = 1m(metre)

Lets now see the conversion of british style of measurement to

metric measurement

1 inch = 2.5 cm

1 foot = 30.50 cm

3 foot = 91 cm

Conversion of metric measurement to british measurement

1 cm = 0.4 inch

1 metre = 1.1 foot

METRIC TYPE BRITISH TYPE

36 inch 91 cm
45 inch 114 cm
54 inch 137 cm
60 inch 152 cm

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ARMHOLE (DEPTH OF SCYE)

To know the arm hole (Depth of scye) , the
breast or chest measurement should be taken
and from it the armhole is measured for both
men and women.The tailors use this type to
measure the armhole (depth of scye).

The depth of scye is measured through various

styles , lets see some of them.

CHEST MEASUREMENT ARM HOLE

24 to 30 inch = (chest/4) + 1(1/4) inch

30 to 28 inch = (chest/4) + 1(5/8)inch

> 38 inch = (chest/5) - 1/2 inch

LEARN STITCHING

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