Transmission Identification & Decoding

Transmission Identification & Decoding

General Transmission Identification
Transmissions are marked and identified by: Casting numbers on the case, extention housing and side cover (on manual trans). Date Casting Codes Assembly Date Code Stamping - can be stamped anywhere... Chassis Vin Number stamping - beginning in 1962 Transmissions are also expressed via the RPO number, usually beginning with "M".
Automatic Transmission Identification & Description

Automatic transmission types are generally id'ed by their pan shape.
The THM200 and the THM250 have pans shaped like a THM350, HOWEVER, the THM200 will have the words HYDRAMATIC DIV. and METRIC stamped into the pan. Automatic Transmission Description & Usage THM200 - Light duty, "metric" 3 speed transmission. THM250 - Used in small 4 cylinder cars (Vega, Sunbird, Monza) from 1973 to 1981 and some Nova/Camaro/Chevelle 6 cylinders in 1974 & 75. The 4 cylinder models have 4 large cooling holes near the torque converter, while on the "bigger cars" there are no cooling holes. THM200-R4 - Used in GM rear wheel drive cars with the 3.8 V6, 305 & 350 Olds and 301 pontiac from 1981 to 1989. This is a 4 speed, overdrive unit. THM350 - Medium duty 3 speed trans used from 1969 to 1989, Used in Buick, Olds, Pontiac and Chevrolet cars and Chevy & GMC light trucks until 1987. Generally used in straight and V6 and small block engines. Generally able to handle up to 400 foot pounds of torque.
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THM375B - This trans is identical to the THM350, but is considered a heavier duty transmission. THM375 - This transmission is a derivative of the THM400 sharing the external appearance of the 400. It'll be marked 375-THM on the bottom of the tailshaft housing. It's a light duty version of the THM400, has ABSOLUTELY NO RELATION to the THM375B, and was found in 1972 to 1976 full-size cars. The Turbo 375 was modified to accept the Turbo 350 driveshaft yoke. THM400 - The THM400 was GM's Heavy-duty 3 speed transmission used from 1964 to 1990. Used on large displacement, high torque engines and engines with towing packages. Generally found in Chevy & GM trucks, cadilacs and large displacement engined, full size GM rear wheel drive cars. THM700-R4 - 4 Speed transmission used in GM cars and light trucks with the 2.8, 3.1, 4.3, V6, Chevrolet built 305, 350 and 454 engines from 1982 to 1992. 4L60 - Early 1990's saw the 700R4 renamed to the 4L60, and "electronic" models were named 4L60E. 4L60 means 4 forward speeds, L = longitudily mounted (rear wheel drive). 60 is the strength rating (less than the 4L80). 3L80 - The 3L80 is a renamed THM400, used in the early 1990's. The 3L80HD would be the THM475 (heavy duty unit). 4L80 - An overdrive model of the THM400. The 4L80E would be the "electronic" model. Transmissions with a suffix of "C" on the end of the type (THM200C) indicate the transmission has a lock up torque converter.
Automatic Transmission Identification & Decoding

Specific methods of identification are as follows (and yes, this section needs to be rewritten).... Some transmissions have a code stamped onto them. Others have a tag rivited to the case. Most transmissions will have a "source serial number" (chassis vin) usually found close to the transmission code. This number will contain division ID #, model year, assembly plant and production sequence (last 6 digits) of the VIN stamped onto the transmission. Example: 19N500001. The source serial number is from the CAR the transmission originally went into, NOT the assembly plant. Location of source serial number On the THM350, the VIN will be stamped on either the drivers side housing near the shifter, on the right
side of the housing just above the pan, or on a boss behind the bellhousing flange on the passenger side of the transmission. On the THM400 the VIN is stamped on a machined surface just above the pan on the drivers side. On the THM200-R4 the VIN is stamped onto the housing towards the rear of the pan, on the drivers side. On the THM700-R4 the VIN is either stamped onto a boss behind the bellhousing flange on the passenger side, just above the pan on the drivers side, or just behind the governor cover, stamped vertically where the case meets the tailshaft housing.
Prior to 1967, transmission ID numbers contained the plant prefix code, month and date of production (expressed numerically) and a shift code (D = Day, N = Night). From 1967 on, the ID number contained the transmission type or plant prefix, Date (coded below) and a shift code. The constants in decoding the trans ID number are the date the transmission was produced. Pre-67 Example: C213N - (C = Cleveland Powerglide, February 13, Night Shift) Post-67 Example: P9E03 - (P = TYPE, 9 = year (1969), E = Month, 03 = Day of Month) Month code: (NOTICE this is NOT in alphabetic order) A = Jan, B = Feb, C = Mar, D = Apr, E = May, H = Jun, K = Jul, M = Aug, P = Sep, R = Oct, S = Nov, T = Dec
The dropbox contains Camaro transmission codes. What SHOULD have been installed, or what was offered for the year selected.
1967 Transmission Codes View Selected Code
Manual Transmission Identification & Description

Manual Transmission Eyeballing
Muncie (left) Saginaw (center) Borg Warner (right)
To quickly finger what you have, notice in the above picture: The muncie reverse lever is in the extention housing, and the cover has 7 bolts. The Saginaw reverse shift lever is on the cover, and the cover has 7 bolts. The Borg Warner has a 9 bolt cover. Muncies are the hot tip, since they usually were used with high performance engines. Again on the muncie, and looking at the cover, 3rd/4th gear lever is on the left. 1st/2nd gear lever is on the right. Further Muncie identification 3 Muncie 4 speeds were offered. The M-20 wide ratio, the M-21 close ratio, and the "Extra heavy duty close ratio" M-22, also known as the "Rock Crusher". The M-22 was generally installed behind severely powerful (high torque) big-block engines. The M-22 is distinguished from an M-21 by the angle of the gear teeth. The M-22 has "straight cut" gears. Due to this, the box tends to be noiser (whines or howls almost like a blower, which is why it's called a "rock crusher") than other boxes. The M-21 has a higher pitch angle on its gear teeth. The close ratio gearboxs generally came with 3.73+ gear ratio'ed cars. 3.55 geared and higher (numerically lower) cars used the wide ratio gearbox. Due to the wide combination of id's, stampings, numbers, etc... varied and even GM couldn't keep track of what was what, it's best to ID your gearbox visually, taking what is stamped on the box FWIW. The best way to ID the transmission is to count teeth.
Muncie 4 speed spline, groove and tooth count characteristics.

Input Spline Input Groove Input Gear Tooth Count Cluster Gear Tooth Count Output Spline Gear Ratio
Type/Year
M20: 1963 - 65 M20: 1966 - 70 M20: 1971 - 74 M21: 1963 - 70
10 10 26 10
none 2 2 1
24 21 21 26
29-22-1917 25-22-1917 25-22-1917 27-22-1917
27 27 32 27
Note 1 Note 2 Note 2 Note 3
M21: 1971 - 74
26
26
27-22-1917 27-22-1917 27-22-1917
32
Note 3
M22: 1965 - 70
10
none
26
27
Note 3
M22: 1971 - 72
26
none
26
32
Note 3
Note 1: M-20 gear ratio: 1st 2.56:1, 2nd 1.91:1, 3rd 1.48:1, 4th direct Note 2: M-20 gear ratio: 1st 2.52:1, 2nd 1.88:1, 3rd 1.46:1, 4th direct, Rev 2.59:1. Note 3: M-21/22 gear ratio: 1st 2.20:1, 2nd 1.64:1, 3rd 1.28:1, 4th direct, Rev 2.27:1 Effective October 21, 1968, an additional letter was added to the plant prefix number to help identify the gear ratios in Muncie transmissions. The additional letter codes as follows: Muncie 3 speed Manual Suffix 1st gear ratio A 3.03:1 B 2.42:1 More info: Marks comprehensive Muncie Info Muncie 4 speed manual transmissions Suffix A B C 1st gear ratio 2.52:1 wide range 2.20:1 close range 2.20:1 Rock Crusher
Of course like engines, transmissions come and go over time, so below is the (as complete as I can make it) transmission plant prefix list: Plant Type Cleveland Manual Powerglide Cleveland Turbo Hydramatic Cleveland Powerglide Hydramatic Turbo Hydramatic Saginaw Overdrive McKinnon Powerglide Muncie 3 speed McKinnon 3 speed GM of Canada Turbo Hydramatic Prefix A B C CA D E H K L Plant Type Prefix Saginaw overdrive O Warner Gear 3 & 4 speed P Muncie 4 speed P Muncie 4 speed R Saginaw 4 speed R Muncie 3 speed S Saginaw 3 speed S Toledo Powerglide T Cleveland Turbo Hydramatic X
Muncie Muncie
3 speed and Overdrive 4 speed
M N
Toledo
Turbo Hydramatic
Last updated: 6/4/1998 Rewritten: 10/5/2001 Author: MadMike Maciolek Email: madmike@nastyz28.com
Return to Main Page 1997 - 2002 North Georgia Classic Camaro (tm) All rights reserved
700-R4 Diagnosis Fundamentals
4L60 (700-R4) Diagnosis Fundamentals
Lets first talk about the difference between a 4L60, and a 700-R4. The only real difference is the name. A 4L60 is a 700-R4. The name only changed to better identify the transmission. The four meaning it has four gears (1-3 plus overdrive). The "L" for longitudaly mounted (as compared to Transverse on a FWD car). "60" is the relative torque value. For example, 80 is stronger than 60, which is stronger than 40, etc... A 4L80-E can handle more torque than a 4L60-E. The "E" you are seeing in the last sentence denotes it is electronically shifted by a computer. Since the 4L60 is hydraulically shifted based on governor pressure and TV cable position, it is delete the "E" at the end. With that said, lets move on.
This was not intended to diagnose your tranny for you. Diagnosing can be very complex, and even give the best of us a difficult time. This was only intended to help you understand what is going on, and help you decide between possible causes, and rule out definite no's. If you are unfamiliar with the 4L60, the Clutch and Band Application Chart will be your best friend. You must first distinguish which gears are working properly, and then distinguish which are not. Then, by using the Clutch and Band chart, you will be able to narrow down possible causes by eliminating unaffected items. Take a look:
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Ok, now lets look at a common problem with the 4L60. Here are the symptoms: Reverse works good. Starts out in first good, shifts normally into second, then right before shifting into third, RPMs go soaring. The vehicle is slipping badly. As the vehicle slows down, it goes back into second. Using those symptoms, lets rule out what can't be bad. Reverse works good. Look and see what is applied in reverse. We now know that the reverse input clutch, and the lo-reverse clutch is OK, since we have reverse. Cross them out. Starts out in first good. Go back to the chart. We can see that the forward clutch must be good, the forward sprag must be OK, and the lo-roller clutch should be OK. Cross them out. Shifts into second normally. Go to the chart. We already know from first gear, that the forward clutch and forward sprag are OK, but now we have the 2-4 band being applied. But since we have second also, then the band is OK. Now take a look at the difference between second and third. Remember, we lost third gear. Notice the 2-4 band disengages, but the 3-4 clutch applies. By using this chart, we can pinpoint that the 3-4 clutches are slipping. Either they are burnt, or the apply piston has a blown seal, or whatever. So by using this chart, we can also assume that we don't have fourth either.
This is an easy one, they get much more complex. Shifting problems are a whole new ball game. Because you need hydraulic schematics of the valvebody, pump, and what they control, I won't go into it. Most shifting problems can be traced to the valvebody, and the two main factors that influence it. The TV Cable, and the Governor. These will come in another installment, right now, try and digest this much.
Think you got the hang of it? Try this one on for size. The symptoms: Put the shifter in Overdrive (OD) and vehicle will not move, the engine just revs up. Reverse works OK. The vehicle will pull foward and move in Third, Second, and First, but not in the OD position.
Give up? Since the car will go in revese, and pull foward in Third, Second, and First, we know the pump is good, the reverse clutches are good, the foward clutch is good, but take a look at the difference is first gears for OD, and Third. Notice that for Third, Second, and First, the overrun clutch is applied. The purpose of the overrun clutch in essence is to lock the sprag together, so that there is engine braking. Because of this, we can deduce that in OD, the foward sprag was not holding like it was supposed to, but by putting it into Third, the overrun clutch applies, thus overriding the sprag allowing the car to move foward. The sprag is faulty and needs replaced. [TECH INDEX] [HOME]
Technical Database
Technical Resource Database General Information:

Frequently Asked Thirdgen Questions (FAQ) VIN Decoder Reading "Trouble Codes" Understanding VATS (PassKey) The Lowdown on EGR Part I EGR Part II Diagnosisng 700-R4 Fundamentals Shopping for TPI conversion parts Third Gen Performance Data Rear Axle Information Third Generation F-body Production Numbers
How to... :
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Technical Database
-SUSPENSION/DRIVELINE
Install Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets (requires Java) Box your LCA's Install a Wonder Bar GM 10-bolt build-up Part I GM 10-bolt build-up Part II GM 10-bolt Part III (installing it) Install a T56 transmission
-INTERIOR
Replace a Heater Core Replace a Dashpad Installing White Faced Gauges
-ENGINE/FUEL
"Ultimate" TB Coolant Bypass Set Minimum Air (TPI Engines) Set TPS Replace your Vbelts with a Serpentine setup Replace an A/C compressor shaft seal (requires Java) Siamese/Port your TPI base Swap an LT1 intake onto your SBC! Install a 3-wire Heated Oxygen Sensor Replace your 100 amp alternator w/ a whopping 140 Amp!
Technical Database
-BODY
Fix sagging doors Replace your broken Air Dam Fix clearcoat scratches NEW!!! Install a Strut Tower Brace Replace a Convertible Top NEW!!!
-TRANSMISSION
Adjust a TV Cable Tranny Upgrade Part I: Corvette Servo Replace Speedo Gears (Automatic) Replace Speedo Gears (T-5 transmission) NEW!!!
[Home]
Third Gen F-body Frequently Asked Questions
Thirdgen F-body FAQ
General Questions:
What options did my car come with?
-The best way to tell what options your car came with from the factory is to find the SPID Label (Service Parts IDentification) also known as the RPO codes. It will list "codes" for all options available that were installed from the factory. The most common place for this sticker was in the center console. There have been reports of them also being stuck in the rear storage compartment, but mostly in the center console. Each code will indicate a specific option, or group of options. For example, N10 was the code for dual converters, and G80 was the code for limited slip, but code G92 was a performance package that included both options (the options will still be listed separately, in conjunction with the package code). GM produced books that list all of the option codes, as well as other websites. If you cannot find your SPID label, you may be able to go to the nearest GM Dealer and have them look up your VIN number and they may be able to retrieve your codes.
How many (insert your car here) were made?

-Thats not an easy question to answer. GM didn't keep track of how many cars were made with certain options. Major combinations like how many T-Top cars, or how many Z28s or how many 350's were recorded, but if your looking for how many Purple RS's with Gray Leather, LO3 engine, M30 Transmission, GU5 axle were made, forget about it. Production numbers didn't get that detailed. To see a list of some production numbers, click HERE.
Can I run dual exhaust on my car?

-Technically, yes you can. Is it easy or necessary? Thats in the eye of the beholder. Exhaust can get pretty cramped under a thirdgen as it is, let alone a pair of exhaust pipes. Not to mention, "studies" have been done, and supposedly, dual exhaust isn't needed or even provide benefit until 450+ HP. A decent mandrel bent 3" single exhaust will support what most people put under the hood, so unless you have a real radical setup, true dual exhaust is not needed. But if your really set on being like your buddies Mustang, it can, and has been done before. Oval tubing has been developed that will allow two pipes run side by side without taking up as much space. Ideally, you want to run the pipes over the axles. I have seen setups that had straight pipes run under the rear axle which is not desirable.
What will my car run at the track?

-A lot of that has to do with year, engine, tranny, equipped options, driver, and of course, what modifications have been done, if any. Its really hard to say what a given car will run due to the amount of variables involved. I have seen stock 350's run 15's in the quarter mile, and I have seen modded 305's run 13's. Its all about engine output, driver ability, vehicle weight, etc... To see what a few stock thirdgens have been reported to run based on magazine publishers testing, click HERE.
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Why does my car appear to run hot?

-Before you start chasing a problem, make sure it really is running hot. The stock gauges in these cars leave much to be desired. Its very possible that the gauge is inaccurate, giving you false readings. If a scantool is available to you, you may want to monitor the scantool's reading of coolant temp and compare it to the gauge. Also be aware that the ECM, with stock calibration, will not turn the fan on until 225. If you have dual fans, the secondary fan will not come on until over 230! So the car may appear to be running hot, but its actually performing as designed. However, if you are in doubt, it would behoove you to get it checked out. Its better to have it checked and there be nothing wrong, then to forget about it and really have a problem!
How can I make my fans come on sooner?

-There are really two ways that have been accepted into the Third Generation community. The first and most reliable is to have the EPROM (computer chip) reprogrammed with lower fan temp settings. Aftermarket chip makers sell chips with lower settings, which usually include a lower thermostat. Anybody who does chip burning on there own can also perform this function. This is most desirable because once the chip is burned, its idiot proof. There is no user input required. Once the ECM sees the coolant temp get to the specified value, it will turn the fans on. The second method is to install a manual fan switch. This usually involves installing a toggle switch inline to the relay signal wire and ground. This is effective, however, you must turn the fan on and off manually every time. Also, if you have completely disabled ECM control over the relay, forgetting to trip the toggle switch could prove disastrous. Most people that use a toggle switch tap into the ECM control wire, so that the ECM can provide a backup, incase the switch fails or the user forgets to turn it on.
Engine/Performance/Drivability
What engines were available, what did my car come with?
-There were several engine options available. This included a four cylinder, various V6 combinations and a plethora of V8s. There are two ways to know what the stock engine/induction combination was. The easiest is to look at the VIN, or you could also find your sticker containing RPO codes. The engine code in the VIN is the eight character, and usually the engine RPO code will start with the letter "L". To see what VIN character or RPO's were used sorted by year, click HERE.
How can I make my car faster?

-This is a loaded question. First you have to decide how far you want to go and how much you want to spend. When it comes to speed, the sky is the limit, but it all comes with a price. You can do simple "bolt-on" mods like a "high-flow" air filter, lower thermostat, etc... for not a lot of money, but you will also get minimal gains. You can increase your budget and pick up items like headers, cat-back exhaust and perhaps a higher flowing intake manifold. For even more gains (and of course money) you can go for a larger camshaft, high flow cylinder heads, etc... For those wanting lots of speed, you could get a Nitrous kit, or a supercharger or turbo. Manufacturers make a variety of performance parts for almost any engine. It doesn't have to be limited to just the engine either. You could try different rear axle gears, better tires, suspension mods, etc...
Can I swap my V6 for a V8?

-Absolutely! Its a big undertaking, but a very common swap. Many things will have to be addressed, like induction system, wiring, transmission, exhaust, etc... If you can find a V8 car that has been totaled for a donor, thats a good way to have most of the parts you need handy, not to mention you can see where everything needs to go. Obviously, the V6 intake/fuel system won't work on a V8, so you can swap in the TPI assembly, TBI or carburetor, whichever you prefer. You will need the proper wiring to go with the induction system. V6 F-bodies had a 60 bellhousing pattern, which means that the V8 will not bolt to it. Therefore, you will need to find a tranny that shares the same 90 bellhousing, such as another V8 or the 4.3L V6. The stock exhaust from the catalytic converter and back will work, but you will need the V8 manifolds or upgrade to headers. There are many other things to consider, to much to list here, but it can be done!
What type of rockers arms do I need?

-You'll have to look under your valvecovers to find out for sure, but most use self-aligning rocker arms. There needs to be some method of keeping the rocker centered on the tip of the valve stem. Two methods are used. One is to use guideplates and non, selfaligning rockers, which will keep the pushrod from moving, which in turn keeps the rocker arm steady. The other method is to not use guideplates and use a self-aligning rocker to keep it centered. If the cylinder head does not have guideplates, then you must use self-aligning rockers. You can tell a self-aligning rocker as it will have "guides" or walls on both sides of where the valvestem contacts the rocker.
Do I have an engine oil cooler?

-If you have an oil cooler from the factory, you will have RPO code "KC4". Another way to tell is by looking right above your oil filter. If there is a piece sandwiched between the filter and the block with coolant lines plumbed to it, you have a cooler. Coolant that had passed through the radiator after being cooled is routed through the oil filter adapter to cool the oil.
What is setting "Minimum Air and TPS?"

Minimum air is the adjustment of how many RPM's the car will idle at when the Idle Air Controller is fully seated. This is important because if its to low, the car will stall, usually when coming to a stop or after being revved, and if its to high, the idle will be too high and the computer will not have proper control over the idle. Setting the TPS, if its adjustable, is also important because there is a voltage range that the computer needs to see at idle and if the minimum air was adjusted (throttle plates opened or closed) then the TPS voltage will be incorrect. You must set the minimum air first, then the TPS. To find out how to perform these, check out the tech articles.
What do I do when my "Check Engine Light" comes on?

-First, don't panic, the light came on because some sort of failure has been detected, but it shouldn't mean your stranded. Second, all you need to do to find out why it came on (or at least a general idea) is to find yourself a paper clip, and read this article: Checking DTCs
What is a MAT/IAT sensor?

-These are the same sensors, just different names. MAT stands for Manifold Air Temperature and IAT stands for Intake Air Temperature. They measure the temperature of the Air in the Intake Manifold. This is an input to the ECM for determining proper calculations for air/fuel mixture.
Can I relocate my MAT sensor?

-This is a common modification to "richen" up the fuel mixture. Normally, the MAT sensor screws into the bottom of the TPI plenum, which can get very hot. Its not uncommon, when viewed with a scantool, to see MAT temperatures over 100 even when the outside air temp is much lower. By relocating the sensor to a much cooler place, it will register the incoming air as a much lower temp (and much denser) and cause the computer to add more fuel. With either an adjustable fuel pressure regulator or the ability to burn your own computer chips, relocating the sensor isn't required.
What size throttle body should I use?

-This is an often debated question. The stock size is 48mm, used on both the 305 and the 350. General rule of thumb is for anything less then a 383, use a 52mm. 383 and above, use the 58mm throttle body. Using to large of a throttle body is just like using to big of a carburetor. If the engine cannot support the added airflow, then it will not give you any gains, and can actually hurt performance and cause drivability to suffer.
What are the coolant lines running in front of my engine?

-If you have these, you have an engine oil cooler. They are coolant lines that run in front of the engine, and back to the oil filter
assembly where the coolant cools the oil as it goes through the oil filter adapter.
Do I really need a 4-bolt block?

-General rule of thumb is unless you realisticly plan on running over 500HP or plan on turning lots of RPMs, a two bolt block will suffice just fine. Most street combinations are well under 500 HP, and never go past 6,000 RPMs, so most street setups will be just fine with a two bolt. It doesn't hurt to run a four-bolt, just cost a little extra.
Can I use the Corvette Aluminum L98 heads on my car?

-Absolutely! These are great heads to boost perforamnce. They are aluminum and feature 58cc combustion chambers which will boost up the compression. The only drawback to these heads is the lack of EGR provisions. If you want to use these heads and remain emission legal, you will need to have the EGR externally plumbed. If your using TPI, you can simply use a Corvette TPI base and plumb exhaust into the port provided. Vortec TPI base has the same provisions and the adapter pipe can be purchased from the same supplier as the base.
Transmission/Rear Axle
Can I swap out my auto tranny for a manual?
-Yes you can! There was a very detailed article written about how to perfrom an auto to T-5/T-56 swap. You can read it HERE.
Did my car come with an aluminum driveshaft?

-One way to tell is to get under the car and look. The aluminum will have a gray/silver color to it and a magnent will not stick to it. The steel driveshaft will probably be rusty and a magnent will stick to it. Another way to tell is look for RPO code "JG1". This indicates that the car came from the factory with the aluminum driveshaft.
Why won't my car shift into OD at Wide Open Throttle?

-Most 700R4s will not let you hold fourth gear at Wide Open Throttle (WOT). Some of the high performance models allowed you to do this, as well as the Police Car packages like that found in the Caprices upfitted for police use. There are two ways to allow your car to hold 4th at WOT. You can either install the "Police Package Correction kit" which is available from your GM Dealer, or you can either block the Detent passage in your Throttle valve plunger bushing, or just replace the plunger bushing with an aftermarket one from companies like Superior. The GM Valve kit is P/N 8671953. It replaces the 3-4 shift valvetrain. Or you can use the Throttle Valve bushing from Superior, or you can modify your existing bushing, but it requires alot of work, you may just want to buy the aftermarket one!
What gears do I have?

-There are several ways to find out. Assuming you have a 26" tire, you can travel at 70 MPH with your tranny in the 1:1 ratio (3rd gear for 700R4s, 4th gear for T-5 manuals). When you reach 70MPH, assuming your tachometer is correct, look at your RPMs. An RPM reading of 2,730 +/- would indicate 2.73 gears. 3,230 RPMs +/- would indicate 3.23s; 3,420 = 3.42; 3,730 = 3.73, etc... Assuming your rear end/ gears are stock, you could either look at your RPO codes, or look on the axle itself for the Axle Code. Click HERE for more info on Axle/RPO codes. Finally, and the mos accurate way to know for sure what your gear ratio is, is to remove the ring and pinion and count the teeth. Take the number of ring gear teeth and divide by the number of pinion teeth. Usually you can see these numbers stamped on the head of the pinion.
How do I install a Posi?

-You can either replace the whole carrier w/ a limited slip unit like the Eaton or Auburn, or get an OEM unit like the Torsen takeouts for sale on the SLP website. This will require removal of the ring gear, being transfered over to the new carrier and resetting up the rear end. Since carrier sizes can differ due to manufacturing tolerances, you MUST setup the rearend as though you were installing a new ring and pinion. You'll want to make a backlash measurement and tooth pattern contact BEFORE dissasembly, and put it back together to acheive the same readings. You also must get proper side bearing pre-load. To find out more about setting up rearends, click HERE.
What tranny do I have?

-First you need to determine if its a manual or automatic transmission. If its an auto, there were two available. The 200C and the 700R-4. Only early thirdgens had the 200C, and it was a three-speed, so if you have a 3 speed auto, it was a 200C (not to be confused w/ a 2004-R) and if it was a 4-speed auto, it was a 700R-4/4L60 (not to be confused w/ a 4L60-E). There were also a 4speed manual and a 5-speed manual. Only the early thirdgens had the 4-speed manual.
How much fluid does my Automatic Transmisson hold?

-Completely empty, the 700R-4/4L60 holds 11 quarts. After just a filter change, it holds 4-5 quarts.
Why does my tranny shift funny?

-There are numerous problems that can cause the transmission to not act properly. It could be something simple like the TV Cable not being adjusted properly, or could even be something more serious than a shift problem, but actually burnt clutches or broken parts. If it shifts late and hard or soft and early, try adjusting the TV Cable first. Not sure how? Click HERE. If its still shifting late and hard and the adjustment didn't help, you have have the Throttle Valve itself stuck in the valvebody. This is a common problem w/ the 700R-4. As it sits in the car, there isn't much you can do about it to fix it, other than yank on the cable a few times or ride it out hoping it frees up. The only way to fix it for good is to install a TransGo Reprogramming kit. In the kit, it has a patented "self cleaning" Throttle valve w/ booster springs. If its not shifting at all, you might have a stuck governer. You can try removing it and seeing if the valve in the center moves freely. It may not even be a shift problem at all. If the vehicle slips on the 2-3 shift, or has a "flare", it may not be the "shift" but the clutches slipping. This would require an overhaul.
Whats the difference in T-5 transmissions?

-There were two available: The Borg Warner T-5 and the World Class T-5. GM started using the "non World Class" T-5 tranny in the thirdgens starting in 1983. Starting in 1998, the World Class T-5 made its appearance in the thirdgens. The WC T-5 was much stronger and a more desireable tranny.
Suspension Interior/Exterior
Vin Decoder
VIN Decoder
No F-body website is complete without its own version of a VIN decoder, so here it is.
Character: Position:
1 1
G 2
2 3
F
4
W 5
2 6
1 7
8 8
0 9
H 10
N 11
0 12
0 13
0 14
0 15
0 16
1 17
1982-1984
Position: 1 Meaning: Country Value: 1 = USA 2 = Canada 2 3 Manufacturer Make G = General Motors 1 = Chevrolet 2 = Pontiac 4 Restraints A = Manual Belts B = Automatic Belts 5 Carline P = Sport Coupe, Z28 S = Berlinetta S = Firebird W = Trans Am X = Trans Am Special Edition 6 7 Body type Body type 87 = 2 Door Coupe Used with postion six.
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Vin Decoder
Engine
F = 151ci, L4 (LQ8) 2 = 151ci, L4 (LQ9) 1 = 173ci, V6 (LC1) H = 305ci, V8 (LG4) G = 305ci, V8 (L69) 7 = 305ci, V8 (LU5)[1982] S = 305ci, V8 (LU5)[1983]
9 10
Check Digit Model Year
The number produced when all numbers and characters(converted to numbers) are added up untill it is down to a single digit (ex. 12345=15=6) C = 1982 D = 1983 E = 1984
11
Plant
N = Norwood L = Van Nuys
12-17
Production Sequence
This is a number assigned to the car during production
1985-1986
Position: 1 Meaning: Country Value: 1 = USA 2 = Canada 2 3 Manufacturer Make G = General Motors 1 = Chevrolet 2 = Pontiac 4 Carline F = F-body
Vin Decoder
Carline series
P = Sport Coupe, Z28 S = Berlinetta S = Firebird W = Trans Am X = T/A Special Edition
6 7 8
Body type Body type Engine
87 = 2 door coupe Used with position six 2 = 151ci, L4 (LQ9) 1 = 173ci, V6 (LB8)[1985] S = 173ci, V6 (LB8)[1986] F = 305ci, V8 (LB9)[Tuned Port Injection] H = 305ci, V8 (LG4)[4BBL] G = 305ci, V8 (L69)[4BBL HO}
9 10
Check digit Model Year
The number produced when all numbers and characters(converted to numbers) are added up untill it is down to a single digit (ex. 12345=15=6) F = 1985 G = 1986
11
Assembly Plant
N = Norwood L = Van Nuys
12-17 Production Sequence
1987-1992
Position: Meaning: 1 Country Value: 1 = USA 2 = Canada 2 3 Manufacturer Make G = General Motors 1 = Chevrolet 2 = Pontiac
Vin Decoder
4 5
Carline Carline series
F = F-body P = Camaro (all models) S = Firebird W = Trans Am
Body type
2 = 2 door coupe 3 = Convertible
Restraints
1 = Manual Belts 3 = Manual Belts, Drivers Air Bag 4 = Automatic belts
Engine
S = 173ci, V6 (LB8)[1987-1989] T = 191ci, V6 (LH0)[1990-1992] H = 305ci, V8 (LG4)[4BBL][1987] E = 305ci, V8 (LO3)[TBI][1988-1992] F = 305ci, V8 (LB9)[Tuned Port Injection] 8 = 350ci, V8 (L98)[Tuned Port Injection]
9 10
Check Digit Model Year
The number produced when all numbers and characters(converted to numbers) are added up untill it is down to a single digit (ex. 12345=15=6) H = 1987 J = 1988 K = 1989 L = 1990 M = 1991 N = 1992
11
Assembly Plant
N = Norwood[1987] L = Van Nuys
12-17
Production Sequence
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Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)
GM DTC's (Diagnostic Trouble Codes)
What is a DTC? A DTC is a diagnostic Trouble Code. The computers used on Third Generation F-bodies are considered OBD-I
(First Generation On Board Diagnostics). They are called that, because not only do they control the engine management system, but also is capable of performing a self-diagnostics of the engine management. For example, the ECM (Electronic Control Module) uses the Oxygen Sensor (O2 Sensor) to monitor exhaust gas for being to rich or lean. If the computer feels that the conditions are right for the sensor to be malfunctioning, it will set a DTC 13 (O2 Sensor circuit fault). Once a DTC is set, the Check engine light will illuminate. There are many acronyms for the Check engine light such as CEL, MIL, SES, but we will use CEL (check engine light).
How do I pull DTC's? This is simple. You don't even need an expensive scan-tool or code reader, just a simple paper clip.
Locate the ALDL (Assembly Line Diagnostic Lead). It is usually under the drivers side of the dash. It may have a cover over it, and may even say "Diagnostic Connector". This is the ALDL. The two terminals that you need to be concerned with is in the picture. It is terminals "A" and "B". Simply turn the Ignition to "Run" (Do not start the vehicle) and put the paper clip in the two terminals. Now watch your CEL. It will start flashing. It will look like Morse Code, but it isn't, and is real easy to interpret.
The first code that will flash will be a code 12. It will be "flash, pause, flash, flash, pause, pause," and repeat the cycle three times. The ECM will flash each code three times, and move on to the next. If you have no codes stored, it will keep flashing code 12. Code 12 simply tells you the ECM is not receiving any pulses from the distributor (since the car is not running). If you pull codes with a scantool and the car is running, this code will not show up. Its no big deal, it lets you know the ECM is in the "Field Service Mode" You will also notice the cooling fans come on, this is normal.
What do I do with the Codes? This is less simple. OBD-I codes are very vague, and diagnosis sometimes isn't that simple.
Most people think that a code 32 (EGR system) means the EGR valve is bad and needs replaced. This isn't always so!!! There are many components in the EGR system that could cause the code to set OTHER than the EGR valve itself! Below is a list of codes and what they mean.
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Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)
Code:
12 13 14 15 21 22 23 24 25 32 33 34 35 36 41 42 43 44 45 46 51 52 53 54 55 61
Meaning:
No Distributor pulses Oxygen sensor Coolant Temp sensor circuit Coolant Temp sensor circuit Throttle Position Sensor Throttle Position Sensor Manifold Air temperature sensor VSS (Vehicle Speed sensor) Manifold Air temperature sensor EGR system MAP sensor or MAF sensor depending on engine MAP sensor or MAF sensor depending on engine Idle Air Control Valve MAF Burn-off circuit No Distributor pulses, cylinder select error Electronic Spark Timing or Bypass fault Electronic Spark Control fault Lean exhaust Rich exhaust VATS system fault PROM fault CALPAK fault System over-voltage Fuel pump circuit ECM fault Oxygen sensor fault (degraded sensor)
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VATS/PassKey
Understanding GM VATS (PassKey)
This system seems to cause much confusion, stress, and misery. Hopefully, this will help elevate some of that. VATS stands for Vehicle Anti-Theft System. It is commonly referred to as PassKey. Later versions include PassKeyII, PassKeyIII and PassLock (which uses no resistor "pellet"). GM first introduced VATS in 1985 on the Chevrolet Corvette, and after proving successful, was later introduced in other models in later years. Lets break it down even further:
Operation: Operation is fairly simple, but lets discuss what all makes up the PassKey system.
The most obvious part is the key. The ignition key as a little "chip" in it. This is a resistor "pellet". There are 15 possible resistances, therefore 15 different types of keys each with a different resistance. This reduces the likelihood of a potential thief from having the correct resistance resistor on hand. Then you have to have a special lock cylinder to "read" the key. I use the term "read" loosely, because it does anything but read the key. I will explain more later. Next is the VATS module. It does most of the security work. It is the "brains" of the system. The module is what actually "reads" the resistance, but has to do it via the contacts in the lock cylinder and the related wiring. Think of the module as a Multimeter, and the wires and contacts the Multimeter Leads. The module reads the resistance and determines if the resistance is the correct value. The module will go into several modes, depending on what the module sees. There is "Tamper" "Normal" and "Fail Enable". Normal: Normal is when the correct resistance is seen during cranking and the module will ground the Start enable relay, and send a "Fuel Enable" signal to the ECM. This basically "turns on" the injectors. If the Fuel Enable signal is lost or not sent, the injectors will never pulse. The signal is a unique "Pulse Width Modulated" signal, which is a series of rapidly switched "on" and "off" voltages that would be near impossible to duplicate. Once the relay is grounded, voltage is allowed to the "S" terminal of the starter, and the ECM is told to pulse the injectors and the car starts. Tamper: This mode happens when the vehicle is cranked, and the resistance value as seen by the module is not the same as the value stored in the module. When this happens, the module shuts down for 4 minutes. Even if the correct resistance is then seen, the car will not start for the 4
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VATS/PassKey
minute "time-out". The security light will also illuminate for the 4 minutes. The Start Enable Relay will not energize and the Fuel Enable signal will not be sent. HINT: if the key pellet is dirty, it will put the module in the "Tamper" mode. If your car fails to crank/start and the security light comes on, try cleaning the pellet, wait 4 minutes, and try again. Fail Enable: This mode is to help keep the motorist with the right key from being stranded. If a failure happens to the PassKey system AFTER a valid start, this mode is initiated. It allows the vehicle to be restarted, even with a failure present. The security light will remain illuminated to let you know a failure is present. However, this also means that the car can be started w/o a key, and is vulnerable to potential thieves. Lets take a look at the basic setup.
Diagnosis: If your car doesn't want to crank and the security light comes on, here are a few things that may hopefully get you back on the road: First, make sure the pellet is clean. A dirty pellet will give a higher resistance than what the VATS module expects to see, and assumes it is the wrong key. Check all of your fuses. If a fuse is blown or missing, it can cause a security problem.
VATS/PassKey
Obtain a multimeter and measure the resistance of the key. Then remove the hush panel on the drives side of the dash and find the wires that go to the lock cylinder (usually two thin white wires, sometimes with orange insulation around both). Now measure the resistance at the two wires with the key in the ignition. If it doesn't come within a few Ohms of the original key resistance, the lock cylinder is bad. If the resistance comes up OK, measure it again, this time while moving the key from "Off" to "crank" several times. Any fluctuation in resistance means a bad lock cylinder. This is the most common cause of failure. The wire are anchored to the stationary steering column, but attached to a rotating lock cylinder and over time, the wire breaks inside the insulation and usually becomes "open" in the crank position. This is read by the module as an incorrect resistance. These are the basics of VATS diagnostics. If the problem is not found, it will have to be taken to a reputable repair facility.
Bypassing: I do not endorse bypassing the VATS system, therefore I will not go into great detail about it. Working at a dealership, I see tons of theft recoveries that never make it out of the parking lot thanks to the VATS system. It works. Bypassing the system makes your car very vulnerable to potential thieves. Consider the cost of having the system fixed properly, to never seeing your car again, or in a ditch totalled. It happens. Bypassing involves finding the resistance of your key, and using a resistor in place if the lock cylinder, thereby fooling the module into thinking the correct key is in place, or bypassing the Start inhibit relay and disabling VATS in the EPROM. Although I don't reccomend doing this, I can perform this service, just drop me an email.
EGR part I
The Lowdown on Code 32 (EGR)
Ok, here is the deal, your cruisin down the road at 70 Mph, you got the T-Tops out and the stereo blaring. Life is grand. Then out of nowhere comes that annoying bright orange Service Engine Soon light. You are shocked. You pull over to the nearest gas station to do a quick inspection of under the hood and find nothing. You take off again and the light is off. Whats going on? You go home and check for codes and what pops up but the notorious code 32. The purpose of this article is to teach you the theory, operation and diagnostics of EGR in hopes that you will not be needlessly swapping parts. I will try to not make this a boring science class or a useless lecture but an informative tool.
EGR Theory.
EGR serves one purpose and one purpose only. That purpose is to
reduce Oxides of Nitrogen (NOx). Under normal combustion, Nitrogen(N2) Oxygen (O2) in the air and Hydrocarbons (HC) in the fuel combind into water (H2O) Carbon dioxide (CO2) and the Nitrogen remains unchanged. Under very hot combustion temperatures, the Nitrogen reacts with the other two byproducts and forms Nitrogen oxide (NO). After being released into the atmosphere, it picks up another Oxygen and becomes Nitrogen dioxide (NO2). In the presence of sunlight,
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EGR part I
it combines with other compounds like Hydrocarbons and forms Smog. Since exhaust gas is inert (very stable) it doesnt burn again. So by being introduced into the combustion chamber, it will lower combustion chamber temps enough so that the Nitrogen doesnt react with the other compounds and is passed unchanged out the tailpipe thus not contributing to smog. Now, since exhaust gas doesnt burn, it doesnt exactly help with combustion. At higher RPMs, this really isnt noticable, but at idle, the reintroduction of exhaust gas will cause a very rough idle and can cause stalling if to much is introduced into the combustion chamber.
EGR Operation.
Like mentioned before, EGR flow is good at higher RPMs, but not
good at idle, so some sort of control needs to be place on the EGR system. Earlier systems used ported vacuum straight to the EGR valve. At idle, the throttle blades are closed, so there isnt any ported vacuum. When the throttle is opened, ported vacuum starts to build. The more throttle, the more ported vacuum. This is how vacuum advance distributers work. As throttle is increased, the EGR valve opened further. Once the throttle is closed, ported vacuum is lost and the valve closed. Most Third Gen. F-bodies use the basic diaphram EGR valve, but instead of relying on ported vacuum, it relies on vacuum that is allowed to pass through a solenoid. The solenoid is controlled by the ECM. When conditions are right (engine temp, TPS position, RPM, etc...) the ECM will ground out the solenoid. The solenoid is a Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) meaning that the amount of vacuum is controled by the computer rapidly switching on and off to ground. The more vacuum the ECM wants to go to the EGR valve, the more time it lets the solenoid remains grounded, measured in Duty Cycle. With a scantool, you can command the EGR solenoid to say 50% Duty Cycle and actualy feel the pulses if you put your finder over the vacuum port of the solenoid.
EGR part I
EGR Diagnostics.
Now that you understand what EGR does and how it does it, lets
see why sometimes it doesnt do it. Since exhaust gas if being introduced into the intake manifold, things like manifold vacuum and airflow reduce slightly. Speed density computers can recognize EGR flow by looking for a drop in vacuum via the MAP sensor. MAF systems use either a temperature switch mounted in the base of the valve or a diagnostic vacuum switch. Since exhaust gas is hotter than fresh air, it can pick up EGR flow by sudden increases in temp when the valve is open. The vacuum switch monitors vacuum going from the solenoid to the valve. In theory, if the valve is getting vacuum, then the system "should" be working. Highway speeds is when the most EGR flow is commanded. When cruising on the highway, the computer will pulse the EGR solenoid so that vacuum will pass and go to the EGR valve. After commanding the solenoid on, it will look for signs that the EGR valve opened by one of the means mentioned above. If the ECM does not
see the change its looking for, his is when the light comes on. What are some possible causes of no exhaust flow? Well, first, make sure that the solenoid is getting vacuum. A plugged or broken vacuum line will make everything else inoperative. If vacuum isnt getting to the solenoid, it surely will not get to the EGR valve. Once this is established, make sure the ECM has control over the solenoid. Visually make sure that the connector is firmly seated into the solenoid and that the terminals inside the connector are not corroded or damaged. Usually you can rev the engine while it is in closed loop and it will be enough for the ECM to command EGR so you will be able to feel vacuum at the solenoid. If you feel vacuum, than the ECM has control over the solenoid and adequate vacuum is reaching it. If you do not feel vacuum, you may need to drive the vehicle with a vacuum gauge hooked up to the solenoid. If you are driving in closed loop, you should see some vacuum. If you dont the solenoid is probably
EGR part I
bad, or the ECM is not controlling it (bad ECM grounds or ECM) providing you had vacuum going to the solenoid. If all is OK so far, inspect the vacuum line going to the EGR valve for plugging or being broken. It is not uncommon for previous owners to plug these vacuum lines with sticks, BBs, screws, or anything else to try and cure a rough idle. The lines can also become plugged with carbon deposits over time. If it is clear and free from defects, check out the valve itself. Make sure it isnt seized by manually lifting up on the diagphram. If it moves freely, put a vacuum on it. It should move and stay there (hold a vacuum). If it doesnt move, try lifting a little on the diagphram (it may be a positive backpressure vavle, lifting on it some will act as the backpressure). If it still doesnt move, or wont hold vacuum, the valve is bad. If everything still checks out OK, then the only other thing that will limit exhaust gas flow is plugged up passages in the intake manifold and cylinder head. This is a common problem with the V6s and will leave many technicians scratching their head because the passages cant be seen. If all else checks out, get a rifle cleaning brush and a shop vac and start cleaning. You will be surprised the amount of carbon chunks that will come out of there.
Other notes:
Most people like to disable the EGR because they claim that hurts
performance. In actuality, disabling the EGR can hurt performance. Here is why. As we already know, at certain thorttle postitions and RPMs, the ECM will command EGR operation. This is to cool combustion chamber temps under load. Well, with cooler combustion chamber temps, we can further fuel economy by advancing the timing. We know that to much timing will cause pinging. But when we keep the combustion temps down, the timing can be advanced without the pinging effect. At highway speeds, the ECM commands EGR operation and will advance timing accordingly. With a blocked of EGR, the computer thinks it is
EGR part I
flowing when it is not and will advance timing. Now that the combustion chamber temps are much hotter, the advanced timing is no longer a good idea and detonation occurs. Since detonation can severly damage an engine, knock sensors are used. When the knock sensor detects detonation, it will retard timing. It takes more to stop detonation that it does to cause it and this is where it hurts performance. For example, at highway speeds, your total advance may be, lets say 30* BTDC. If the computer advances it one more degree to 31* and it detects detonation, it cant just go back to 30* to stop it, it must retard timing to like 25* to try and stop it, and if it still occurs it will further retard timing. If the EGR was working properly, the temps would have stayed cool enough to operate at 31* with no problems.
EGR PART II
Many items were forgotten about when this article was written. Part II includes these updates.
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EGR part II
EGR Part II
1985-1989 V8:
These systems use a typical EGR valve with one exception. There is a Diagnostic Temperature Sensor threaded into the base of the EGR Valve. Because these cars are equipped with a MASS Air Flow sensor, it uses this temp sensor to detect changes in temperature. Primarily, it is looking for a sudden rise in temperature when the EGR valve is opened. Everything is the same as mentioned in Part I, with the addition of the temp sender. It is wired directly to the ECM, and serves as an EGR self diagnostic only. Some potential problems that would cause a code on these systems are: Ruptured EGR diaphragm, broken vacuum lines, defective or plugged EGR Solenoid, poor connections to the solenoid or diagnostic switch, or a failed diagnostic switch.
1990-1992 V8:
These systems use the same EGR valve for the previous V8's, except the deletion of the Diagnostic Temp Sensor. Because these systems are Speed Density (using a MAP sensor) it can detect EGR operation in another way. Usually the EGR diagnostic is run on a long decell. When the vehicle is in decell, the EGR valve is closed. The ECM begins to monitor MAP sensor voltage very closely, and will cycle the EGR Solenoid to open the valve fully and then closed again and watch for the sudden changes in MAP sensor voltage, due to the introduction of exhaust gasses into the intake. Failures for these cars are similar to those on the previous V8's, except the temp sensor, since it is deleted.
1985-1989 2.8L V6:

Once again, we are dealing with a Mass Air flow system. Because of this, we once again use a diagnostic switch. This one is not like the V8 diagnostic switch. This one is based on assumption, and is not as accurate as the temp switch. The V6 uses a vacuum switch that is basicly "Tee'd" with the EGR valve. When the ECM commands the EGR solenoid to allow vacuum to the valve, it also goes to the diagnostic switch. The ECM assumes that if the diagnostic switch is getting vacuum, then the EGR valve is too. This is usually a correct assumption, but it doesn't mean the Valve is working! Because this is also a diaphragm type EGR valve, it has similar failures encountered as the V8 systems, but with the vacuum switch, you also need to look at it. It is not unusual for the diagnostic switch to go bad. They usually fail always "open" telling the ECM that the valve is never getting vacuum, or they fail "closed" telling the ECM that is is always getting vacuum, either way, it will set a code. Another failure is the Vent on the solenoid/switch assembly. It can get clogged. If it does get clogged, vacuum will be trapped in the switch. This will tell the ECM that the valve is open, and it will be! This can cause rough idle and tip-in hesitation because the solenoid cannot release the vacuum built up in the EGR Valve, and it gets held open.
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EGR part II
1990-1992 3.1L V6:

This system is totally different. It does not use a diaphragm type EGR Valve as used on previous engines. It uses a Digital EGR Valve. It has three solenoids, each one mounted above a different size orifice. These solenoids are "on/off" solenoids, so when a different amount of exhaust gas is required, it closes one solenoid, and opens one with a bigger orifice. These cars are once again Speed Density, so it relies on the good 'ol MAP sensor for diagnostics. During the diagnostic, the ECM will cycle each solenoid once, and watched for the MAP sensor voltage to change more and more, since each solenoid lets more exhaust gas to pass through. There are many failures inherent with this system. For one, these solenoids are exposed to hot exhaust gas, and then cooled back down when EGR is no longer needed. This causes excessive thermal cycling and weakens the springs over time. Sometimes the springs can get weak enough to let exhaust backpressure push the solenoids off their seat. Other problems include the solenoid themselves, they can just quit working and never open, or a chunk of carbon can get in there and hold a solenoid open. Another problem is carbon buildup in the Intake Manifold. Carbon gets accumulated in the EGR passage (because hot exhaust gas is allowed to cool in the intake) and restricts it. This restriction will cause only a small drop in MAP sensor voltage, regardless of which solenoid is opened, and will set a code.
If any inaccuracies are found, or something is unclear, please let me know! Webmaster
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TPI Conversion Parts
TPI Swapper's guide: Part I, shopping for TPI parts
Swapping a TPI into a car that didn't come with one, can be overwhelming. It can be even harder, if you don't shop smart. There are many parts and accessories out there for TPI, and many used setups for sale. In this installment, I will focus on the used setups, and the parts needed to operate them. Used TPIs are fairly cheap as many people are converting to carb, or upgrading to other forms of Fuel Injection. You can often find a good deal on a decent used TPI setup from just the intakes and runners, to the whole nine yards including the wiring harness, sensors, distributer, ECM, and then some fall in between. I am writing this to help others avoid some of the pitfalls that exist (mostly ones I have encountered). The more you plan before you shop, the easier the swap will be.
TPI UNITS
Here is an example of what is for sale on eBay. Here are some highlights:
q
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90 fuel lines off the fuel rail. Notice they point towards the drivers side of the assembly. This denotes that the setup came off of an F-body. If they were straight out, then it came off of a Corvette. This is very important if you want to use factory fuel lines.
q
The assembly comes with the Throttle cable bracket. Although they are cheap new from the Dealer, every little bit counts, and thats $10 you can spend on something else. This unit was equipped on a car WITHOUT the Cold Start Valve. This is important depending on what you are installing it on. If you are using an '89 or later PROM or wiring harness, you won't be using a Cold Start Valve. If you do get one that came with the valve, and don't want to use it, you can get plugs for the hole in the runner and a cap for the fuel rail.
Here is another auction. This setup has some pitfalls, none to serious.
q
Notice this unit was equipped with the cold start valve. No big deal, the plug and cap cost $20. There are large dents in the runners. Not only is this unattractive, but can obstruct airflow, and we all know that costs horsepower. Some of the bolts are missing. This is no big deal, but can be a hassle, its another thing you will have to buy later. The more complete it is, the better.
Here is a checklist of things you will need. The more the "package" includes, the less you have to shop around:

q
TPI lower intake TPI Upper intake Pair of runners Throttle Body Fuel rail 8 injectors TPS sensor MAF/MAP sensor Distributer Wiring harness IAC motor CTS IAT sensor Knock sensor ECM PROM/MEMCAL fuel pump and/or sender assembly high pressure fuel lines fuel pump relay other needed relays (i.e. MAF relays if using a MAF system) Air intake system w/ filter Misc.
Usually, the "package" includes what you see in the pictures above, the upper and lower intakes, runners, fuel rail w/ injectors and the throttle body. Prices usually start around $300 for just that. The more thats included, the higher the price. Many people who have totally gutted the car, will sell the harness, ECM, distributer also, and prices for this are usually $600+
I will try to go into some of the "checklist items" in detail, so you know what you are looking at, and what to look out for.
TPI Upper intake, lower intake, runners:

q
1985-1988 had provisions for a cold start valve. If you are going to use these, you will either need to use a chip for '86-'88 systems, or use a newer ECM/chip combo, and block off cold start system. A fuel rail cap and CS valve plug is available to do so. 1989 was delete of the cold start valve, so the upper intake (plenum), runners, and lower intake do not have provisions for the valve. 1990-1992 was also delete the CS valve, but also had provisions on the Plenum for a MAP sensor bracket above the vacuum nipples on the rear of the Plenum, since '90-'92 was speed density controlled. If you want to use a TPI off of a Corvette, be carefull, the lower intake was made to bolt up to cylinder heads that do not have EGR passages, so you won't be able to use a Corvette intake, unless you want to delete the EGR.
Starting in 1987, the angle of the four center bolts of the intake changed, so if you wan't to use a pre-87 intake on an '87 or later engine (or vice versa) you will have to modify the four center holes to make it bolt up properly.
The throttle linkage supposedly changed in '89 so you will need to order a throttle cable for whatever year throttle body is on the car.
Throttle body
Fuel Rail The fuel rails are essentially the same between the years, the major difference is the Fbody (camaro, firebird) fuel rails, vs the Y-body (Corvette) fuel rails. They are distinctly different, and will impact how you run your fuel lines. The Fbody rails have a 90 bend towards the drivers side for the "intermediate" fuel lines to hook up to, before going into the flex lines. You will need the Fbody rails if you want to use factory lines. The Ybody fuel rails come straight out, and will need custom fuel lines made to work.
Here is an example of Custom fuel lines made to adapt a Corvette style Fuel Rail, to an F-body. You want to make sure you have clearance between the alternator and bracket if you are retaining the V-belts.
Injectors You will need to know what size injectors come w/ the TPI, or at least know the engine
size they were on. 19lb/hr injectors were used on 305s, 22lb/hr injectors were used on 350s. All the Y-body units should come w/ 22lb/hr injectors, since the Vette didn't come w/ 305s, and all '85 and '86 F-body units should come w/ 19s since the 350 wasn't used on these cars untill '87 unless it was retrofitted.
MAF/MAP sensor
q
1985-1989 systems used a Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor. 1990-1992 used a Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor. Due to the unreliability of the MAF sensor, speed density systems (MAP sensor) are more desireable, and easier to install.
NOTE: 1985 MAF systems used a MAF Burnoff module in conjuntion w/ the ECM and were very unreliable, and should be avoided.
Distributer More than likely, you can re-use your stock distributer, providing the one that is
currently installed IS NOT a vacuum advance distributer. You can either use the large "coil-in-cap" or the small style, you will just have to wire accordingly.
Wiring Harness You WILL need a wiring harness to operate the TPI system.
A TBI harness can be modified to operate a TPI, but if you are converting from carb, or don't want to mess w/ converting the TBI harness, you will need to get a TPI harness. If you are using a MAF system w/ a cold start valve, you will need the harness for that. If you are using MAF w/o the cold start, you can use the same harness, and just leave the CS valve connector unplugged. If you are using speed density, you will need a speed density harness. NOTE: 1985 used a MAF burnoff module, and these harnesses should be avoided.
Many after market companies make wiring harnesses for TPI. Painless Wiring has impecable quality, but ARE NOT MEANT TO BE USED AS A STOCK REPLACEMENT. If you want to use a Painless Wiring harness, you will need to drill a hole in the firewall to run the wires, or cut the harness in half, and solder in the needed amount so it will be long enough to be run through the factory pass-thru behind the passenger side fender. *update: Painless now makes longer harnesses, but they are still not original replacements. Except for V6 Camaro's the Coolant Temp Sensor (CTS) and Intake Air Temp (IAT) sensor are the same Part Number. Since they are relativly cheap, and big problems can arise if bad, I reccomend new ones with the swap.
CTS/IAT sensors
Knock Sensor The knock sensors are different between 305s and 350s, and also different between
MAF systems, and Speed Density (primarily becuase the MAF has an external ESC module, and the SD is internal to the ECM.) So purchase accordingly. I reccomend a new one.
ECM This is an important decision.
If you want or are using a MAF system, you will need the 16198259 (165) ECM. If you are using Speed Density, you will need the 16198262 (730) ECM. The Speed Density systems use a MAP sensor, and are very reliable, and cheaper to fix (comparison of replacing a MAP sensor vs. a MAF sensor.)
PROM/MEMCAL Which PROM you use will depend on alot of things.
If you are keeping the cold start valve or not, if you are using MAF or Speed Density, if you are putting it on a 305, 350, or other engine, if you have manual or auto trans, etc... If you are keeping the CS valve, you will need a PROM for '86-'88 vehicles. If you are not using a CS valve but keeping MAF, you wil need one from an '89. If you are using Speed Density, you will need '90-'92. Also note that if you are using an '89 or later chip, you will need to address the VATS/PassKey issue. It is very easy to "disable" the VATS feature w/ a custom chip. Your car WILL NOT START w/ an '89 or later chip and you do not have VATS. You can either send the chip out and have it "disabled", or you can retrofit PassKey into the vehicle. Also note that Corvette PROMs and F-body PROMs cannot be interchanged.
Fuel Pump/Fuel Sender The decision to install an in-tank pump vs an inline pump is highly
debated much like the MAF vs Speed Density debate. If you are going to use an inline pump, you will not need to mess w/ pulling the fuel tank. I have heard several people having much luck w/ their inline pump sucking enough fuel through the stock sending unit, even if a TBI pump is still hooked up. You will need high pressure fuel lines from the pump to the fuel rail. If you install an in-tank pump, the TBI guys have an advantage, the TBI fuel sender has the high pressure fitting on the sender, the Carb fuel sender does not, and should be replaced w/ a fuel injection sending unit. Many pumps are available for in-tank use, such as stock pumps and Walboro pumps.
High Pressure Fuel Lines Since TPI fuel pressures can reach up to 45psi, and w/ an Adjustable
Fuel Pressure Regulator (AFPR), they can reach 50+, you NEED fuel lines that can handle the
pressure. One easy, reliable, and affordable alternative is to buy used fuel lines from a salvage yard. TBI, TPI, and Fuel injected V6 F-bodies all use the same fuel lines, so lines from any of those cars will work. You can usually get the entire lenght of line, fuel filter bracket and both rubber flex lines for less than $30. If you are converting from TBI to TPI, you already have these lines. If you are converting from Carb, you need these lines. You can also run other forms of High Pressure Fuel line from the tank(or pump) to the fuel rail, as long as they meet pressure specifications. Many companies like Summit sell AN-"O-ring flare" adapters, so you can use AN fittings, and screw them into the fuel rail. You will definatly need one of these, and how you hook it up depends on what wiring you will use for the TPI. It is reccomended you use a new one.
Fuel Pump Relay
Relays(other) If you are using a MAF system, you will also need a MAF Power Relay and the
MAF Burnoff Relay on top of the Fuel Pump Relay. Your wiring harness should have provisions for this. You will need to plumb clean air into the throttle body but there are many ways to do it. First off, the Carb guys are cursed w/ a passenger side mounted battery. Since the battery is on the drivers side for TPI, most of your "Cold Air" kits are routed to the passenger side of the radiator. You can either look around for a kit that routes to the drivers side, or you can relocate the battery. You can also make a custom cold air.
Here is a custom cold air setup using 3" exhaust pipe painted black w/ a 45 degree bend, a 3" cone filter on the end, black plastic to seal off the filter from the engine bay, and a snorkel from a TPI firebird turned up-sidesown (so it points to the drivers side). This is easy to do, works great, and cost less than $50. This is installed on an '87 LG4 converted to TPI.
Air Intake This is a simple, yet always confusing topic.
A throttle body mounted cone filter should be avioded at all costs. They suck hot air directly from the radiator, wich can reach 200+ degrees. Testing has proven around a two tenths gain w/ a throttle body
mounted filter vs a cold air induction. Also note that a Camaro's "dual snorkel/filter" air intake WILL NOT fit on a firebird. The front support is different (excessive cutting required), it will not fit between the turn signal housings, and will also not clear the hood where it goes over the radiator. Other notes: Except for the differences in Intake Manifold center bolt angles (which can easily be fixed) all other mechanical aspects of the engine can be re-used w/ the TPI setup, such as Heads, Camshaft, block, etc.... When the intake is off, its the ideal time to replace the camshaft and such, but it is not required. The stock components will work. You will also need to purchase the gasket set for the TPI. Lower intake gaskets should be the same for the Carb/TBI engines, but you can usually get the lower gaskets in a kit w/ the runner gaskets. You will need Lower, runner, and throttle body gaskets.
Misc.
***If you find any inaccuracies, or have anything to add, please email ADMIN.*** Special thanks to Jim (aka Jim85IROC) for contributing. [HOME]
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Thirdgen F-body Performance Data

1985 Trans Am 1987 GTA 1988 Camaro Sport Coupe 1988 Formula 1989 Trans Am 1989 GTA 1989 Turbo TA 1991 GTA 1991 GTA Convertible 1991 Formula 1991 Formula 1LE 1991 SLP GTA 1992 Trans Am Convertible
1985 Pontiac Trans Am (Hot Rod Magazine)

Specs: Performance: Engine: 305ci (5.0L HO "L-69"), 9.5:1 1/4 mile: 15.30 @ 92.41 MPH Compression Ratio, Rochester 4 BBL, HP: 190, TQ: 240 Skid Pad: .92g Drivetrain: 5 Speed Manual Transmission, 3.73:1 Rear Axle.
1987 Pontiac GTA (Hot Rod Magazine)

Specs: Engine: 350ci (5.7L), 9.3:1 Compression, Tuned Port Injected, HP: 210@4400 RPM, TQ: 320@3200 Performance: 0-60 MPH: 6.8 seconds 1/4 mile: 15.10 @ 92 MPH
Drivetrain: 4speed Automatic Transmission Skid Pad: .85g (700R4), 3.27 rear axle.
1988 Chevrolet Camaro (Hot Rod Magazine)

Specs: Performance:
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Engine: 305ci (5.0L), 9.3:1 Compression Ratio, Throttle Body Injected, HP: 170@4000 RPM, TQ: 255@2400 RPM
0-60 MPH: 7.6 seconds 1/4 mile: 15.71 @ 89.3 MPH
Drivetrain: 5 Speed Manual Transmission, Skid Pad: .82g 3.08:1 Rear Axle.
1988 Pontiac Firebird Formula (Hot Rod Magazine)

Specs: Performance: Engine: 305ci (5.0L), 9.3:1 Compression 0-60 MPH: 7.1 seconds Ratio, Tuned Port Injected, HP: 215@4400 RPM, TQ: 285@3200 RPM 1/4 mile: 15.07 @ 93.4 MPH Drivetrain: 5 Speed Manual Transmission, Skid Pad: .86g 3.45:1 Rear Axle.
1989 Pontiac Trans Am (Hot Rod Magazine)

Specs: Performance: Engine: 305ci (5.0L), 9.3:1 Compression 0-60 MPH: 6.72 seconds Ratio, Tuned Port Injected, HP: 215@4400 RPM, TQ: 285@3200 RPM 1/4 mile: 15.64 @ 92.8 MPH Drivetrain: 5 Speed Manual Transmission, 3.08:1 Rear Axle.

Specs: Engine: 350ci (5.7L), 9.3:1 Compression, Tuned Port Injected, HP: 235@4400 RPM, TQ: 340@3200 Drivetrain: 4speed Automatic Transmission (700R4), 3.27 rear axle. Performance: 0-60 MPH: 6.44 seconds 1/4 mile: 15.13 @ 94.3 MPH
1989 Pontiac Turbo Trans Am (TTA) (Hot Rod Magazine)

Specs: Performance:
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Engine: 3.8L Turbo, 8.0:1 Compression, HP: 250@4400, TQ: 340 @ 2800 Drivetrain: 4speed Automatic Transmission (200R4), 3.23 rear axle.
0-60 MPH: 6.0 seconds 1/4 mile: 14.21 @ 97.8 MPH Skid Pad: .87g

Specs: Engine: 350ci (5.7L), 9.3:1 Compression, Tuned Port Injected, HP: 235@4400 RPM, TQ: 340@3200 Drivetrain: 4speed Automatic Transmission (700R4), 3.23 rear axle. Performance: 0-60 MPH: 6.2 seconds 1/4 mile: 14.92 @ 91.4 MPH Top Speed (est.): 145MPH Skid Pad: .86g
1991 Pontiac GTA Convertible (Hot Rod Magazine)

Specs: Performance: Engine: 305ci (5.0L), 9.3:1 Compression 0-60 MPH: 7.36 seconds Ratio, Tuned Port Injected, HP: 225@4400 RPM, TQ: 300@3200 RPM 1/4 mile: 15.37 @ 89.73 MPH Drivetrain: 5 Speed Manual Transmission, 3.42:1 Rear Axle.
1991 Pontiac Firebird Formula (Hot Rod Magazine)

Specs: Engine: 350ci (5.7L), 9.3:1 Compression, Tuned Port Injected, HP: 240@4400 RPM, TQ: 340@3200 Drivetrain: 4speed Automatic Transmission (700R4), 3.23 rear axle. Performance: 0-60 MPH: 6.36 seconds 1/4 mile: 14.45 @ 94.72 MPH
1991 Pontiac Firebird Formula "1LE" (Hot Rod Magazine)

Specs: Engine: 305ci (5.0L), 9.3:1 Compression, Tuned Port Injected, HP: 225@4400 RPM, TQ: 300@3200 Drivetrain: Drivetrain: 5 Speed Manual Transmission, 3.42:1 Rear Axle.
Performance: 0-60 MPH: 6.53 seconds 1/4 mile: 14.55 @ 92.95 MPH
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1991 Pontiac GTA w/ SLP Package(Hot Rod Magazine)

Specs: Engine: 350ci (5.7L), 9.3:1 Compression, Tuned Port Injected, HP: 290@5500 RPM, TQ: 360+@3200 Drivetrain: 4speed Automatic Transmission (700R4), 3.23 rear axle. Performance: 0-60 MPH: 5.93 seconds 1/4 mile: 14.08 @ 98.18 MPH
1992 Pontiac Trans Am Convertible (Car Craft Magazine)

Specs: Performance: Engine: 305ci (5.0L), 9.3:1 Compression 0-60 MPH: 7.0 seconds Ratio, Tuned Port Injected, HP: 205@4400 RPM, TQ: 285@3200 RPM 1/4 mile: 15.4 @ 91.3 MPH Drivetrain: 5 Speed Manual Transmission [TECH INDEX] [HOME]
Thirdgen Rearend Data
Rearend Data
RPO Codes Cover ID 10-bolt axle codes 9-bolt axle codes 10-bolt assembly specs 9-bolt assembly Specs
RPO Codes:
G80: Limited Slip G92: Performance Rear Axle Ratio GU2: 2.73 GU3: 2.93 GU4: 3.08 GU5: 3.23 GU6: 3.42 GT4: 3.73 GM3: 3.45 GW6: 3.27 GS4: 3.70 GH4: 2.92 GH3: 2.77
Cover Identification
7.5"/7.62" 10-bolt Axle Codes

*Note: Do not assume the codes are correct in these charts for 9-bolt/10-bolt identification. The ratios are correct, but use pan gasket ID to determine whether its a 9-bolt or 10-bolt axle.
http://www.sethirdgen.org/reardata.htm (1 of 4) [4/10/2004 11:33:52 PM]
1982:
2JE 2JG 2JH 2JJ 2JR 2JW 2JX 2JY 2JZ 2KE 2KF 2KG 2KH 2PE 2PW 2PX 2PY 2PZ 2.73 3.08 3.23 3.42 3.42 2.73 2.93 3.08 3.23 2.73 2.93 3.08 3.23 2.73 2.73 2.93 3.08 3.23 Std Std Std Std Posi Posi Posi Posi Posi Std Std Std Std Std Posi Posi Posi Posi
1983:
4JF 4JG 4JH 4JJ 4JK 4JQ 4JR 4JX 4JY 4JZ 4KJ 4KK 4PG 4PQ 4PW 4PX 4PY 4PZ 2.93 3.08 3.23 3.42 3.73 3.73 3.42 2.93 3.08 3.23 3.42 3.73 3.08 3.73 2.73 2.93 3.08 3.23 Std Std Std Std Std Posi Posi Posi Posi Posi Std Posi Std Posi Posi Posi Posi Posi
1984:
4PW 6JG 6JH 6JJ 6JK 6JQ 6JR 6JY 6JZ 6KK 6KY 6KZ 6PN 6PQ 6PR 6PY 6PZ 2.73 3.08 3.23 3.42 3.73 3.73 3.42 3.08 3.23 3.73 3.08 3.23 3.73 3.73 3.42 3.08 3.23 Posi Std Std Std Std Posi Posi Posi Posi Std Posi Posi Posi Posi Posi Posi Posi
1985:
4PW 6JG 6JH 6JJ 6JK 6JQ 6JR 6JY 6JZ 6KK 6KY 6KZ 6PN 6PQ 6PR 6PY 2.73 3.08 3.23 3.42 3.73 3.73 3.42 3.08 3.23 3.73 3.08 3.23 3.73 3.73 3.42 3.08 Posi Std Std Std Std Posi Posi Posi Posi Std Posi Posi Posi Posi Posi Posi
1986:
2EA 2EN 2ET 8JC 8JD 8KA 8KB 8XA 8XB 8XC 8XF 8XN 8XO 8XP 8XQ 8XU 2.77 2.77 2.77 3.42 3.73 3.42 3.73 2.92 3.08 3.27 3.70 2.92 3.08 3.27 3.45 3.08 Std Posi Posi Std Std Std Std Std Std Std Posi Posi Posi Posi Posi Posi
1987:
2HA 2HL 2HP 2HR 2HQ 2HT 4HB 4HR 4HV 4HY 3.23 3.42 2.73 3.42 2.32 2.73 3.08 3.42 2.73 3.23 Std Std Std Posi Posi Posi Posi Posi Posi Posi
6PZ
3.23
Posi
8XV 8XW 8XX 8XY
3.27 3.45 3.70 2.92
Posi Posi Posi Posi
1988:
6HT 6HE 6HP 6HB 6HF 6HK 6HL 6HQ 6HJ 2.73 2.73 2.73 3.08 3.08 3.08 3.42 3.23 3.23 Posi Posi Std Posi Posi Std Std Posi Posi
1989:
6HT 6HE 6HP 6HB 6HF 6HK 6HL 6HQ 6HJ 2.73 2.73 2.73 3.08 3.08 3.08 3.42 3.23 3.23 Posi Posi Std Posi Posi Std Std Posi Posi
1990:
8HP 8HT 8HE 8HK 8HF 8HB 8HJ 2PM 2PN 8HC 2PN 2.73 2.73 2.73 3.08 3.08 3.08 3.23 3.23 3.23 3.42 3.42 Std Posi Posi Std Posi Posi Std Posi Posi Std Posi
1991:
1992:
Borg Warner 7.75" 9-Bolt Axle Codes

*Note: Do not assume the codes are correct in these charts for 9-bolt/10-bolt identification. The ratios are correct, but use pan gasket ID to determine whether its a 9-bolt or 10-bolt axle.
1985:
10032243 10032244 10032245 10032246 10032248 10032250 10032268 10032270 10032272 10032274 14085324 14085325 14085326 14085327 3.08 3.08 3.27 3.27 3.45 3.70 3.08 3.27 3.45 3.70 3.42 3.42 3.75 3.73 Std Posi Std Posi Posi Posi Posi Posi Posi Posi Posi Std Std Std
1986:
10032270 10032272 10032274 10040660 3.27 3.45 3.70 2.77 Posi Posi Posi Posi
1987:
4ET 4EU 4EW 2.77 3.27 3.45 Posi Posi Posi
1988:
1989:
[HOME]
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Thirdgen production numbers.
Camaro Production Numbers: 1982: Sport Coupe, 4-cylinder

Berlinetta, Coupe, 6-cylinder Z28, Sport Coupe, 8-cylinder Z28/Z50 Pace Car Edition 78,761 39,744 64,882 6,360 63,806 27,925 62,650 127,292 33,400 100,899 97,966 13,649 68,403
1983: Sport Coupe, 4-cylinder

Berlinetta, Coupe, 6-cylinder Z28, Sport Coupe, 8-cylinder

Berlinetta, Coupe, 6-cylinder Z28, Sport Coupe, 8-cylinder

Berlinetta, Coupe, 6-cylinder Z28, Sport Coupe, 8-cylinder (of the 68,403 Z28s; 21,177 were IROCs)

Berlinetta, Coupe, 6-cylinder Z28, Sport Coupe, 8-cylinder (of the 88,132 Z28s; 49,585 were IROCs)
99,608 4,479 88,132

Sport Coupe Conv, 8-cylinder Z28, Sport Coupe, 8-cylinder Z28 Sport Coupe Conv, 8-cyl (of the 53,607 Z28s, 38,889 were IROCs)
83,890 263 52,863 744

Sport Coupe Conv, 8-cylinder IROC-Z IROC-Z Convertible
66,605 1,859 24,050 3,761 83,487
1989: RS Coupe, 6-cylinder
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RS Convertible, 8-cylinder IROC-Z Coupe IROC-Z Convertible
3,245 20,067 3,940 28,750 729 4,213 1,294 79,854 5,329 12,452 3,203 60,994 2,562 5,197 1,254

RS Convertible, 8-cylinder IROC-Z Coupe IROC-Z Convertible

RS Convertible, 8-cylinder Z28 Coupe Z28 Convertible

RS Convertible, 8-cylinder Z28 Coupe Z28 Convertible
Camaro production figures adapted from "The Camaro White Book", Micheal Bruce Assoc, inc. 1996
Firebird Production Numbers 1982:

Total: Firebird Formula Trans Am Total: Firebird Formula Trans Am Total: Firebird Formula Trans Am Total: Firebird Formula Trans Am Total: Firebird Formula Trans Am 116,362 41,683 21,719 52,960 74,884 32,020 10,934 31,930 128,304 62,621 10,309 55,374 95,880 46,644 5,208 44,028 110,463 59,334 2,259 48,870
1983:
1984:
1985:
1986:
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1987:
Total: Firebird Formula Trans Am GTA Total: Firebird Formula Trans Am GTA Total: Firebird Formula Trans Am GTA Turbo Trans Am Pace Car Total: Firebird Formula Trans Am GTA
88,612 42,558 13,164 21,788 11,102 62,455 28,973 13,475 8,793 11,214 64,404 32,376 16,670 4,172 9,631 1,555 20,553 13,212 4,834 1,060 1,447
1988:
1989:
1990:
1991:
Total: Firebird Firebird Convertible Formula Trans Am Trans Am Convertible GTA Total: Firebird Firebird Convertible Formula Trans Am Trans Am Convertible GTA
51,860 37,762 989 5,544 4,013 637 2,915 29,669 24,364 1,325 1,052 1,643 777 508
1992:
Adapted from the Pontiac Historical Society production number figures. Please note, numbers vary from source to source. If you feel that one of the numbers are inaccurate, and you KNOW the correct number, please email the admin and cite your source. Thanks!
[HOME]
Boxing your Thirdgen Trailing Arms.
Boxing your rear LCA (trailing arms)

This is the stock rear control arm. It is also known as a trailing arm. Two of these and a torque arm is really all that bolts the rear end to the body of the car, so you can see the importance of these peices. From the factory, these are stamped steel, wich are very weak. Aftermarket ones are available that are much stronger, but if your on budget, you may choose to do it yourself (aftermarket ones are much lighter however).
Using flat bar stock that was about the same width as the LCA, I marked where the contours of the LCA changed, and then grooved the bar for easier bending. You can use narrower bar to fit inside the LCA, but I got these for free, so thats what I used.
After undercutting the first two grooves, the first two bends were made to fit the contours of the LCA. The bends were made in a vice and test fitted. It was trial and error, but patience paid off.
A total of four undercuts and four bends were needed to match the contours exactly. Then the bar was cut to lenght.
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Boxing your Thirdgen Trailing Arms.
Once the bar is bent and cut to length, it can then be welded to the LCA. After welding, the welds were ground smooth, and some of the excess bar was also ground off. After final assembly, it was then painted. This is also a prime time to install the Poly Bushings, but I didn't have them when I did this.
Here is the final product. This really stiffens up the LCA's. If you can't afford aftermarket ones, and can deal with the little extra weight, than this is the way to go. Gains were minimal, and I would have benefited more with Poly Bushings, but evey little bit counts.
[TECH INDEX] [HOME]
http://www.sethirdgen.org/lca.htm (2 of 2) [4/10/2004 11:34:27 PM]
Installing a WonderBar on your Thirdgen.
Installing a WonderBar (Steering Brace)
This is what is known as a "Wonder Bar" or also known as a steering brace. It ties both sides of the engine bay together from underneath, giving extra strength to the steering gearbox mount, since fatigue and stress cracks are common around the gear box mounting. This will help tighten up the front end and prevent stress cracks from occuring.
Installation couldn't be any easier. This really is a no-brainer. You can expect to spend about 15 min in your driveway with just a ratchet and 15mm socket. Here is a view of under the car. The wonderbar mounts parallel to the sway bar.
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Installing a WonderBar on your Thirdgen.
You must lower the sway bar and to do this remove the three bolts shown on each side (six total). The sway bar is only held in place by two bolts on each end, but you will need to remove the third for the brace. Let the bar hang down.
The actual "bar" portion goes to the front (its almost impossible to get it wrong) and then reinstall the six bolts you removed. Thats it! Thats all there is to it. Here it is installed. A new WonderBar won't look likt this, mine was originally black, and I sanded, primed and painted red. Enjoy!
[TECH INDEX] [HOME]
http://www.sethirdgen.org/wbar.htm (2 of 2) [4/10/2004 11:34:39 PM]
GM 10-bolt build-up, Part I
GM 10-bolt Build-up, Part I
This feature will be done in three parts. Part one will be all the "prep" work done to the axle. Part II will be the ring&pinion setup, and Part III will be the replacement of the rear axle. All of this was done to a 2.73:1 ratio, posi, disc brake axle out of an '88 IROC as a disc to drum conversion. To clear up some confusion I have seen out in the "F-body message boards", all thirdgens were equipped with two axle options. Either the Saginaw 10-bolt 7.65", or the Borg Warner 9-bolt. No 12-bolts, no 8.5" ring gears, none of that stock. Since this was a 2.73, I had to order the 3.73 gears that are specially made for "2 series carriers". If you want a deal, you have to: A) Be very patient, B)be very observant, and C) be willing to travel. To pick up the "jewel" that I did for $150, I had to drive over 6 hours roundtrip, and rent a pickup truck to retrieve it. Well worth it, I felt. I picked up the whole assembly (in pieces) for a great price.
This leads me to another point. Know what you are getting into before buying. Some of the things I MADE SURE OF before buying was: Were the main caps in the original position (they CANNOT be mixed side to side), is the pinion shim present (I will talk about this later), did the posi work, what series carrier is it, etc... Know what you need, and what you are talking about. There are some people who have junk, who want to pawn it off on some unsuspecting person. Everything needed was present and accounted for, consider it a deal. Here a a few things you will need when building it up, and/or doing the drum to disc conversion.
http://www.sethirdgen.org/10bolt1.htm (1 of 5) [4/10/2004 11:35:10 PM]
In the picture, there is Richmond ring & pinion, wheel bearings and seals (x2), side carrier bearings (x2), front and rear pinion bearings, pinion seal, crush sleeve (spacer), J65 E-brake cables (conversion only), and of course, posi additive.
BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING, read the instructions that come with the ring and pinion. The instructions are written by the people who design the gear, so they know best about what it needs to function properly. Also good to have a service manual handy. Once you read the instructions fully, read them again! Trust me, you will be glad you did! The first step is to totally dissasemble the axle. Keep the main caps on there respective side. Mine were painted, so it was easy to tell. You will need to have the bearings pressed off the pinion and carrier, a local shop can do this if you don't have the capability. Make sure you save the old bearings, they will come in handy. Also knock out the old bearing races, save these also. One quick pointer, to save from rounding the pinion shaft lockscrew, use a 6 point 5/16 socket to break it loose.
You will also need the save the pinion shim when you take the bearing off the pinion. Richmond gear reccomneds that you check pinion depth with the proper tool. Since 95% of the people reading this will not have access to this tool, I will not bother. Instead, we will use Richmond's approved "alternative" method. If you have the old shim, re-use it. If you don't have the shim, use a .035" pinion shim for starters. You will check this later with a "tooth pattern".
This pinion shim goes between the pinion, and the bearing. It will get sandwiched when the bearing gets pressed on. Both the rear pinion bearing, and side carrier bearings need pressed on. This is where the old bearings come in handy. You will need to knock the rollers off the inner race, and use the inner race to press the new bearings on by its inner race.. By no means press the bearings on by the outer race! They will be damaged. If you take this to a shop, politely remind them of this! The yellow arrow shows the inner race being used to press on the new bearings inner race.
You will now need to bolt the ring gear on. PLEASE NOTE: ring gear bolts are REVERSE THREAD!! You need to turn them CCW to tighten, and CW to loosen. Also don't be afraid to use loctite, it will be your best friend! Once all the ring gear bolts are torqued to spec (consult your instruction sheet/repair manual) then set it aside, its ready to install.
Nows a good time to go ahead and do the wheel bearings and wheel seals. You should have removed them during dissasembly, but if not, do it now. I use a seal puller to remove them, but any similar method will work.
Then you will need to remove the bearings. This isn't as easy as the seal. There is a special tool for it, but since this article is for the average DIYer, I will explain an alternative. I used all of my 3/8" socket extensions all put together, and "rodded" all the way through the axle housing, and rested the end against the inside of the bearing, and hammered the end of the extensions (opposite end of housing). Granted, not everybody has three and a half feet of socket extensions, but any metal rod or the like will work. Just beat the both out without damaging the axle tubes. Then use a suitible tool to hammer the new bearings in. I used a FWD axle nut socket. Tap it in untill fully seated. You will hear a change in pitch of the hammering when its seated. Tap the seal in after that so its flush with the axle tube.
You will need to tap in the new bearing races. Onc method that works well is to use the old bearing race, a flat piece of metal a little larger than the race, and a brass drift or something similar. Since the old race is the same size as the new one, it works great for tapping the new one in without damaging it. Then you just need the metal and drift to beat on the old race.
Thats about it for the "prep" work. Part II will be the ring and pinion setup.
[Part II] [Home]
GM 10-bolt build-up, Part II
GM 10-bolt Part II
Hopefully if you made it this far, you have completed Part I. Part II will cover the install and set-up of the ring & pinion, and finishing touches. Hopefully you had the old pinion shim, here is where it will come into play. You will need to set the pinion down inside the housing. Then set the carrier down inside with the outer races installed. I used two "production" shims to give some initial preload so I could check the "tooth pattern" to give me an idea if the pinion depth is close. A service shim is the thick cast iron shim most axles come from the factory with. I didn't fully seat it since I was just making some checks.
The pattern looks fairly decent, so I will leave the pinion shim alone. If you don't have any gear marking compound, you will need some. This will be your final "test" along with backlash measurements. Since I determined to use the existing pinion shim, I will go ahead and set the pinion bearing preload. You will need to oil the front and rear bearings.
Install the front bearing, and tap in the pinion seal. Once this is done, slide the crush sleeve on the pinion shaft, set the pinion in the housing, put the companion flange (yoke) on and the washer and start the nut.
I used the special tool to hold the companion flange during tightening. If you don't have access to one of these, you will have to use your imagination, but whatever you decide to do, just remember it has to withstand alot of torque. I used a 3/4" pull handle to make turning the nut effortless. The reason it gets so hard is because you have to press the front bearing on the pinion, and you have to crush the crush sleeve.
Turn the nut until the pinion won't rock back and forth inside the housing. You want to eliminate all play. Now, turn the nut some more, but go very slow, and in small increments. Once all the play is gone, you will start to crush the crush sleeve. Once you crush it, you cannot "uncrush" it, so if you over tighten, you will have to throw the sleeve out, get a new one, and start over. You want between
15-30"/lbs for new bearings, 9-15"/lbs on used bearings.
I have appoximatly 30 inch pounds of preload on the bearings. Remember, tighten the nut slowly and in small increments. A very small turning amount yields very large increases in preload!!!
Now that the pinion is in, you need to work on the carrier. Set it in with the outer races installed, and the bearings oiled.
There is another special tool (of course!) to tap the shims in, but you can make do with about anything you can find.
This shim is to thick. I will not be able to use the thick "production" shims, so I will need to stack several thin shims (shim pack) to get what I need.
This is where it gets crazy. First you need to establish "no clearance" while getting no preload. So you need to start with thin shims, and get thicker, equally on each side, untill there is no clearance (using a feeler gauge) on either side of the carrier. Once this is achieved, you will need to check backlash.
I have .005" of backlash, wich is to tight. Richmond Gears recomends .008" of backlash (its also etched on the ring gear). You will need to swap shims around, to move the ring gear further or closer
to the pinion. Since I am to tight, I will have to move it left (away) from the pinion. Whatever you subtract from one side, you MUST add that shim to the other side to mainain zero clearance. Once you get the backlash set right, you will now need to pre-load the side carrier bearings. After verifying that zero clearance is achieved, you will need to add a .004" shim to EACH SIDE. You will have to pound these in. To keep from bending it up, I remove the carrier, add the .004" to each shim pack, then install the carrier and one shim pack, then tap the whole other pack in. Remember, if the original "production" shims fit, you won't need to go through all of this. With that done, you will need to check side bearing pre-load and total preload. To determine total pre-load, simply take your beam type torque wrench as used in the pinion bearing meaurement, and turn the pinion nut. You should have 32-55"/lbs of preload. I had 40 inch/pounds, but because there is such a varience offered, you will need to check the side bearing pre-load, which is a simple formula: Total pre-load - Pinion pre-load x gear ratio. Specs for new bearings is: 30-40 inch pounds. So I had 40 total, 30 at the pinion, and I installed 3.73s. 40-30=10x3.73= 37.3, so I am at the upper limits, but OK.
So we are doing good, now one final check, the "tooth pattern" check. Torque the main caps in place. Add more paste to the gear teeth and turn the ring gear foward and backward so you can see both sides of the pattern. Richmond Gear reccomends for their 49 series gears (like what was installed) that the pattern be basiclly centered, with a slight bias to the "toe" of the tooth.
We are right on the money! Now doublecheck the backlash just for re-assurance. We are still at .008", time to move on. You will need to slide the axles into the tube and align the splines so they will fit into the side gears of the carrier. You will need to do one at a time to get the C-clip in. Once the clip is on the axle, slide the axle outwards to seat the clip.
Once both axles are in, you will need to install the pinion shaft to keep the clips from unseating. Remember to tighten the bolt down with the 6 point 5/16" socket. You have come to far to round that bolt off! Now that the ring and pinion is set-up, its all down hill from here. My next step was to paint it. After all, if you did this much work, no sense in it looking like it was stolen from a junkyard. I waited untill the internals were set-up to paint, since there is alot of positioning of the axle during setup, and it would have gotten all scratched.
Next step (disc conversion only) was to install the rotors/calipers, etc... The pistons in the caliper where too far out for the new pads, so I had to push them in. There is a tool that rotates the piston while pushing it in.
With the pads installed, set the caliper on the mount, and don't forget to lube the slide pins with Silicone lubricant. These brakes aren't the greatest, so take the extra step to help them work at their peak.
Tighten all four slide pins down (two on each side)
Of course, since I am going to "walk the walk", you better believe I will "talk the talk"!! I think this is one of the most recognized items on an axle!
After insalling the brake lines, I also installed new E-brake cables. I had to get new cables since my current set-up is drum. They are very easy to install. The axle is ready to install!
Part III will cover the swap of the rear axles. Part III will be coming soon!
[Part I] [Home]
Swapping 10-bolts on an F-body
This is part three of the "10-bolt build up". Once the axle was built up with a posi and Richmond 3.73s, now all we have to do is install it. I used a lift with a Fuel Tank Jack, but this can be done in a driveway as long as you have something to help you remove the axle (its very heavy). This was the set-up the car came with from the factory. Drum brakes and an open 2.73:1 gear ratio was very inadequate. I am replacing this axle with one equipped with rear disc.
You will need to start by removing the sway bar. There are two endlinks, and two clamps that hold it to the rearend. They look like muffler clamps.
You will need to remove the Torque Arm and the driveshaft. The T/A has two 21mm bolts, and the driveshaft u-joint straps have four 11mm bolts.
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You will need to loosen the ebrake cables so that they can be removed. You will also need to remove the rear rubber brake hose. Once you crack the fitting loose, remove the retaining clip and seperate the lines.
You will need to support the rear before removing any thing. Once supported, remove the LCA bolts and the shock nuts. Once removed, lower the rear and remove the spring and rubber.
Make sure everything is disconnected, and remove the rear. Once out, remove the old axle from the support, and put the new one on. Now is the time to install new speedo gears.
Once the rear is up in place on the car, there are a few attaching points that must be installed before the support can be removed. They are:
1: Shocks 2: Torque Arm
3: Lower control arms. You don't want to fully tighten the LCA bolts, since they must be tightened with the car at ride height.
You will basicly need to re-install everything that you removed. There is no easier way to put it. Make sure you get the brake line back together, and get the fitting tight and re-install the clip. You may also need to loosen the e-brake some more to get the cables in. I had to loosen it alot since I had new cables for the disc.
Once everything is bolted back up, put the wheels, and Track bar back in. Double check everything. You don't want something coming apart going down the highway or dragstip. But if you went from drum to disc like I did, you arn't done yet. Drum brake hydraulics are different than discs, so you need to replace the proportioning valve.
Once you replace this, then you can bleed the brakes. You will also need to tighten the e-brake cable since it was loosend. Now, Richmond also reccomends a "break-in" for threre gears. Make sure you read the instructions since manufacturers reccomendations may vary. Richmond reccomends for the 49 series gear, for street applications, that you drive for 10 miles and let them cool for thirty. Repeat this two more times. Basicly, you want the gears to establish a "wear pattern" without overheating. If you overheat them, the gears will become "soft", and very vunerable to breakage.
Make sure the pedal feels good before you take the car out on the road. If the pedal does not feel right, something may be wrong, and you may injure yourself or others. Make sure the brakes are working properly! Enjoy!
[HOME]
Installing a T56 transmission.
T-56 CONVERSION FROM AUTOMATIC AND T-5 Special thanks to Craig Skiles for documenting his swap bit by bit as he went along.
THIS IS TO HELP ANYONE WHO IS CONSIDERING OR PLANNING TO DO THE T-56 SWAP INTO ANY 82-92 CAMARO. I AM ASSUMING THAT THE SWAP WILL BE THE SAME FOR THE FIREBIRD, BUT IT HAS BEEN MY EXPERIENCE IN THE PAST THAT THERE ARE A FEW SUBTLE DIFFERENCES HERE AND THERE. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED.
THERE ARE ALREADY A NUMBER OF TECH ARTICLES OUT THERE ABOUT THIS SWAP AND TO BE HONEST ALL OF THEM HAVE LEFT ME SCRATCHING MY HEAD ASKING QUESTIONS ABOUT ONE THING OR ANOTHER. SO I AM WRITING THIS IN ORDER TO MAKE IT A LITTLE MORE COMPLETE AND ANSWER A LOT OF QUESTIONS I KEEP SEEING ON THE MESSAGE BOARDS ABROAD.
THERE IS NO NEED FOR ME TO GO INTO DETAIL ABOUT HOW TO TAKE OUT A TRANSMISSION. IF YOU NEED HELP WITH THIS, I SUGGEST THAT YOU BUY A HAYNES OR A CHILTONS MANUAL, THE LATER BEING PREFERABLE. I WILL HOWEVER TALK JUST A LITTLE ABOUT PUTTING THE T56 INTO THE CAR TOWARDS THE END OF THIS ARTICLE. EVERYTHING FOR THE T-56 DOES NOT HAVE TO COME FROM THE DONOR CAR, TRUST ME ON THIS ONE.
THINGS YOU WILL NEED FOR THE T-56 SWAP:
T56 TRANNY W/ FORK AND BELLHOUSING FROM AN LT1($600-1500) DO NOT USE A 93 T-56 IF YOU WANT THE 0.5 6TH GEAR RATIO T56 FLYWHEEL FROM AN LT1($10-350) T56 CLUTCH PACK ($208-985) T56 SHIFTER ($40-160 IF IT DID NOT COME WITH TRANNY)
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T56 HYDRAULIC MASTER/SLAVE CYLINDER KIT ($89-130) T56 MOUNTING BRACKET/CROSSMEMBER ($150-400 SPOHN PREFERED) T56 FLYWHEEL TO CRANK BOLTS ($.85-1.60 -6 OF THEM) T56 PRESSURE PLATE TO FLYWHEEL BOLTS ($.45-1.19 -6 OF THEM)
THINGS YOU CAN REUSE IF SWAPPING FROM THE T-5:

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SHIFTER BOOT THAT COVERS THE HOLE IN THE TRANNY TUNNEL SHIFTER BOOT FOR THE CENTER CONSOLE PEDAL ASSEMBLY STARTER (I WILL TALK ABOUT THIS AT THE END OF THE ARTICLE) BELLHOUSING TO ENGINE BOLTS DRIVESHAFT
THINGS YOU CAN REUSE IF SWAPPING FROM AN AUTOMATIC:
BELLHOUSING TO ENGINE BOLTS DRIVESHAFT
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SO LETS START WITH THE GUYS WHO HAVE REMOVED AN AUTOMATIC, THERE ARE A FEW THINGS THAT YOU NEED TO DO FIRST IN PREPPING FOR THE INSTALLATION OF THE T-56. THEY ARE:
1. REMOVE CENTER CONSOLE COMPLETELY AND DISCONECT THE TWO CABLES GOING TO THE SHIFTER BRACKET.
2. REMOVE THE BRACKET THAT IS WELDED TO THE TRANSMISSION TUNNEL AND HOLDS THE SHIFTER ASSEMBLY. 3. ON THE SHIFTER ASSBLY THERE IS A WIRE CONNECTOR WITH 6 WIRE LEADS. YOU WILL BE NEEDING FOUR OF THESE LATER. 4. REMOVE THE TRANNY COOLER LINES IF WEIGHT IN YOUR VEHICLE IS SUCH A FACTOR, EVERY BIT HELPS. 5. REMOVE THE BRAKE PEDAL ASSEMBLY SO THAT YOU CAN DRILL 3 NEW HOLES FOR THE BRAKE/CLUTCH PEDAL ASSEMBLY AND CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER. 6. YOU WILL NEED TO CUT A LARGE CUTOUT IN THE TRANSMISSION TUNNEL SO THAT THE T-56 SHIFTER HOUSING WILL FIT. YOU WILL SEE WHAT I AM TALKING ABOUT WHEN YOU INSTALL THE T-56. 7. I KNOW THAT JUST ABOUT EVERY ONE HAS THIER WAY OF DOING THINGS, BUT JUST IN CASE, MAKE SURE YOU REMOVE THE TV CABLE FORM THE THROTTLE BODY ASSEMBLY IF YOU DISCONNECTED IT AT THE TRANNY, YOU WILL OBVIOUSLY NOT BE NEEDING THIS EITHER.
OK, USE WHATEVER YOU CAN (CHISEL & HAMMER, AIR CHISEL) TO REMOVE THE BRACKET THAT HELD THE SHIFTER ASSEMBLY. THERE ABOUT FOUR OR FIVE TACK WELDS THAT HOLD IT ON, GOODLUCK, IT'S A BITCH.
TO REMOVE THE TRANNY COOLER LINES, I FOUND IT MOST SIMPLE TO USE A GOOD PAIR OF CUTTERS, BECAUSE ITS GOING TO BE NEXT TO IMPOSSIBLE TO WIGGLE THOSE DAMN LINES OUT.
TO REMOVE THE BRAKE PEDAL ASSEMBLY, YOU WILL NEED TO FIRST REMOVE THE BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER AND BRAKE LINES, THEN DROP THE HUSH PANEL UNDERNEATH THE DRIVERS SIDE DASH. HERE I FOUND IT EASIER THE SECOND TIME AROUND TO JUST LET DOWN THE STEERING COLUMN AND USE A 4' EXTENSION BAR TO SEE AND REMOVE THE 4 NUTS THAT HOLD ON THE BRAKE BOOSTER TO THE FIREWALL. IT WILL ALSO MAKE IT EASIER TO REMOVE THE IGNITION SWITCH TO REMOVE THE LOCKING MECHANISM ATTACHED TO THE SWITCH THAT PREVENTED YOU FROM TAKING THE KEY OUT OF THE IGNITION WHEN YOU WERE IN ANY GEAR OTHER THAN PARK. AFTER REMOVING THE 4 NUTS, I NOTICED THAT THERE WAS ANOTHER NUT STILL HOLDING THE ASSEMBLY ON. THIS NUT IS IN SORT OF A TOUGH PLACE. IF YOU POKE YOUR HEAD UP UNDER THE DASH LOOKING UP TOWARDS THE DASH PAD YOU WILL SEE IT. IT'S ABOUT CENTER OF THE BRAKE PEDAL ITSELF, A 6" EXTENSION WILL DO JUST FINE HERE. AFTER REMOVING ALL 5 NUTS NOW, IT WILL BE EASIER TO REMOVE THE BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH AND CRUSIE CONTROL INTERRUPT SWITCH IF EQUIPPED.
AS FOR THE DRILLING OF THE THREE HOLES NEEDED FOR THE NEW BRACKET AND CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER, I CAN ONLY SUGGEST WHAT I DID, BECAUSE THE HOLE THAT WAS SPECIFIED IN ANOTHER ARTICLE FOR THE SHIFTER TO COME THROUGH THE TRANNY TUNNEL WHEN I WAS INSTALLING THE T-5 WAS WAY TO LARGE. THE BEST WAY I THINK IS TO FIND A REFERENCE POINT ANYWHERE IN THE CAR, LIKE A POINT ON THE FIREWALL, SOMETHING THAT IS THE SAME IN ALL CAMAROS AND NOT JUST SOME MODELS. THIS OF COURSE ONLY WORKS IF YOU HAVE ACCESS TO A CAR THAT HAD A T-5 IN IT. I CAN SEND MEASUREMENTS UPON REQUEST BUT RATHER NOT. I WILL TELL YOU THAT THAT THERE IS A TECH ARTICLE OUT THERE ON A POPULAR BOARD ABOUT SWAPPING IN A T-5 FROM AN AUTOMATIC. YOU CAN USE THIS
ARTICLE AS A GUIDE FOR THE T-56 AS LONG AS YOU MOVE THE ENTIRE HOLE BACK ABOUT 2" AND CHANGE THE WIDTH TO BE 1' NARROWER. DOUBLE CHECK IT FIRST, DON'T TAKE MY WORD ON IT. FOR THE CLUTCH/BRAKE ASSEMBLY YOU WILL NEED TO DRILL 3 HOLES. ONE ARTICLE MENTIONED ABOUT THERE BEING A CUTOUT ON THE RUBBER PADDING/ISULATION OF WHERE THE CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER WOULD GO IF THE CAR WAS SO EQUIPPED. WELL THERE WAS. IF YOUR CAR DOES NOT, I CAN SEND A MEASUREMENT TO YOU BY TAKING MEASUREMENTS OFF FROM THE BRAKE PEDAL ROD THAT GOES THROUGH THE FIREWALL. IT WILL BE A BITCH IF YOU DONT HAVE THESE HOLES RIGHT, PROMISE. WHEN I GOT READY TO DO THIS I HAD THE CUTOUTS THERE AND JUST USED A 1.25" HOLE SAW TO MAKE TWO HOLES. THE CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER BOLTS TO THE FIREWALL AT AN ANGLE THEREFORE DRILLING TWO HOLES SORT OF ELONGATES THE HOLE TO ALLOW THE CYLINDER TO BE AT THE RIGHT ANGLE. AFTER THE HOLE IS DRILLED I THEN USED A STANDARD DRILL BIT ABOUT TWO SIZES UP FROM THE ACTUAL BOLT SIZE AND DRILLED TWO HOLES ON EITHER SIDE OF THE ONE I JUST DRILLED. THESE HOLES SERVE TWO PUPOSES. ONE BEING THAT THE 'U' BOLT USED TO HOLD THE CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER UP AGAISNT THE FIREWALL WILL COME THROUGH THESE HOLES FROM THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT AND (SECOND) THEN GO THROUGH THE HOLES OF THE BRACES THAT ARE FOUND ON THE CLUTCH PEDAL ASSEMBLY WITH TWO NUTS TO SCREW ONTO THE 'U' BOLT. ITS A PIECE OF CAKE!
SO NOW YOU HAVE ALL YOUR HOLES CUT AND YOUR PEDAL ASSEMBLY IN PLACE, AND YOU HAVE THE CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER IN READY TO GO. HERE'S SOMETHING THAT YOU NEED TO DO AS WELL. YOU NEED TO TAKE THE TWO LARGEST GAUGE WIRES THAT ARE ON THE 6 WIRE CONNECTER THAT YOU UNPLUGGED FROM THE SHIFTER ASSEMBLY AND CUT THEM. YOU ARE GOING TO RUN THESE WIRES INTO THE CLUTCH START SWITCH. I WILL EXPLAIN THE DIFFERENCES IN COLOR OF THE WIRES AT THE BOTTOM OF THIS ARTICLE WITH SOME OTHER DIFFERENCES BETWEEN MODEL YEARS. YOU WILL ALSO NEED TO FIND THE TWO WIRES THAT CONTROL THE REVERSE LIGHTS (TAN W/ WHITE STRIPE & LIGHT GREEN-CHECK YOUR MANUAL) AND RUN THESE OUT THE HOLE YOU CUT FOR THE SHIFTER, OR YOU CAN RUN THROUGH THE FIREWALL AND BACK THROUGH THE TRANNY TUNNEL. THE REVERSE LIGHT SWITCH IS ON THE PASSENGER SIDE OF THE T-56.
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FROM HERE YOU SHOULD BE CAUGHT UP TO THE GUYS WHO HAVE REMOVED THE T-5. THEY SHOULD HAVE BY NOW SWAPPED OUT THE NEW CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER HYDRAULICS AND BE SCRACTHING THEIR HEAD AS TO WHY THE CLUTCH ROD FROM THE MASTER CYLINDER WILL NOT FIT PROPERLY ON THE PEDAL. I WILL EXPLAIN THIS AT THE BOTTOM.
NOW YOU NEED TO NOW PUT ON THE T-56 FLYWHEEL & PRESSURE PLATE. ONCE YOU HAVE THE FLYWHEEL AND PRESSURE PLATE BOLTED UP USING THE NEW BOLTS YOU HAVE GOTTEN FROM THE DEALER YOU ARE NOW READY TO LIFT UP THE TRANNY.
YOU MUST LIFT THE TRANNY UP AS STRAIGHT AS POSSIBLE AND AS CLOSE AS YOU CAN GET THE TRANNY TO THE ENGINE BLOCK WITHOUT SCRAPPING THE INPUT SHAFT ON THE PRESSURE PLATE, OTHERWISE YOU WILL BE THERE ALL DAY AND NIGHT TRYING TO GET IT IN AND MESSING UP THE INPUT SHAFT AND PUTTING UNNECESSARY STRESS ON IT. ONE WAY TO GET THE TRANNY UP THERE IS TO START BACK IN THE TRANNY TUNNEL A BIT FURTHER AND LIFT AND PUSH AT THE SAME TIME. YOU WILL SEE THAT IT IS BETTER TO JUST LIFT THE TRANNY STRAIGHT UP BECAUSE AS YOU GET TO THE TOP OF THE TUNNEL THINGS START TO GET KIND OF TIGHT. OBVIOUSLY DO NOT TRY TO SHOVE THE TRANNY AS HARD AS YOU CAN TOWARDS THE BLOCK TO MAKE THAT .25" OR .125" GAP GO AWAY, OR PUT BOLTS IN TO DRAW THE TRANNY TO THE BLOCK. YOU WILL SCREW UP THE PILOT BEARING DOING THIS!! YOU WILL FIND YOURSELF TAKING THE TRANNY OUT AGAIN AND REPLACING THE BEARING ALONG WITH THE INPUT SHAFT BECAUSE IT DID NOT HAVE THE SUPPORT IT NEEDED. ONCE YOU HAVE THE TRANNY UP AGAISNT THE BLOCK, IT WOULD BE WISE TO PUT IN A FEW OF THE TRANNY TO ENGINE BLOCK BOLTS. FROM THERE, I WOULD THEN GO AHEAD AND PUT ON THE X-MEMBER AND MOUNT OF YOUR CHOICE. I WILL DESCRIBE A FEW DIFFERENCES OF THESE AT THE BOTTOM.
SO THERE YOU ARE, THE TRANNY IS BOLTED UP TO THE BLOCK AND YOU HAVE THE X-MEMBER BOLTED IN AND READY TO MOVE ON. NOW ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS JUST SLIDE THE CLUTCH FORK ON THE BEARING, YES YOU CAN DO THIS WHILE THE TRANNY IS BOLTED ONTO THE BLOCK WHILE THE SLAVE CYLINDER COVER IS OFF, JUST USE A FLASHLIGHT AND LOOK UP IN THE OPENING AND YOU CAN SEE THE BEARING. AFTER SLIPPING THE FORK ON TO THE BEARING PUT THE COVER ON AND THEN BOLT THE SLAVE CYLINDER COVER ONTO THE TWO STUDS. ONE THING I CAN NOT EXPLAIN IS HOW YOU WOULD BOLT UP THE EXHAUST BRACKET TO THE TRANNY. MY EXHAUST IS STILL STOCK AND I USED SPOHN T-56 RETROFIT TORQUE ARM . SO I JUST TIED IT UP FOR THE TIME BEING UNTIL I FIGURE OUT WHAT I AM GOING TO DO. STILL HAVE THE EXHAUST ITSELF TO REPLACE AND WHAT OTHERS DID WITH THE BRACKET, I HAVE YET TO ASK. SORRY. FINALLY, BOLT UP THE DRIVE SHAFT AND TORQUE ARM IF EQUIPPED (SEE BELOW). NOW ALL YOU HAVE TO DO US MAKE ALL YOUR ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS. THERE ARE 4 YOU NEED TO MAKE. 1. REVERSE LOCKOUT - WIRE TO THE BRAKE SWITCH, IT WILL MAKE LIFE EASIER 2. VSS SIGNAL TO ECM AND SPEEDOMETER - I SUGGEST WWW.JAGSTHATRUN.COM FOR A SOURCE ON THIS INFO IF YOU HAVE A MECHANICAL SPEEDO 3. REVERSE LIGHTS 4. CLUTCH STARTER SWITCH
AND OF COURSE THE 'CAGS' CONNCECTION IS FOR THOSE GUYS THAT DON'T KNOW HOW TO DRIVE A REAL CAR, YOU WILL NOT BE NEEDING THIS FEATURE BECAUSE YOU DRIVE A THIRDGEN. ANYWAY, I WOULD SUGGEST USING A PLUG TO COVER THE CONNECTORS THAT ARE EXPOSED. THAT'S JUST ME.
SOME THINGS OF INTEREST:
THE T-56 FLYWEEL IS DIFFERENT FROM THE T-5 FLYWHEEL. THE T-56 IS MUCH THICKER THAN THE T-5 OFF A BLOCK THAT'S 1988 AND NEWER. AS FOR THE PRESSURE PLATE IT IS THE OPPOSITE. THE PRESSURE PLATE FOR THE T-56 IS A BIT THINNER THAN THE ONE USED FOR THE T-5 AND AS YOU ALREADY KNOW FROM READING ALL OVER THE BOARDS, THE CLUTCH SETUP IS ASS BACKWARDS!! (THANK YOU GM ENGINEERING!) THE CLUTCH ON THE T-56 WORKS LIKE THIS (in simple terms): THE THROWOUT BEARING IS INSTALLED INTO THE PRESSURE PLATE FROM THE FRONT SIDE OF THE PLATE AND OBVIOUSLY BEFORE YOU BOLT THE PRESSURE PLATE ONTO THE FLYWHEEL. THE BEARING STICKS OUT OF THE PRESSURE PLATE ENOUGH SO THAT THE CLUTCH FORK WILL ATTACH TO THE BEAING AND PULL THE FINGERS (TOWARDS THE TRANNY) AWAY FROM THE FLYWHEEL AND PULL THE SURFACE OF THE PRESSURE PLATE AWAY FROM THE FLYWHEEL. WHEREAS THE T-5 BEARING SITS COMPLETELY BEHIND THE PRESSURE PLATE AND AROUND THE INPUT SHAFT OF THE TRANNY, THE BEARING PUSHES ON THE FINGERS (TOWARDS TO THE ENGINE) PUSHING THE SURFACE OF THE PRESSURE PLATE AWAY FROM THE FLYWHEEL ALLOWING THE CLUTCH DISK TO SPIN FREELY. ALSO THE FLYWHEELS WILL DIFFER DEPENDING ON WHAT TYPE OF REAR SEAL YOU HAVE IN YOUR ENGINE BLOCK. I BELIEVE YOU WILL FIND THE ONE PIECE REAR SEALS STARTED IN 1987 OR MIGHT HAVE BEEN 86 (CAN'T REMEMBER AT THIS TIME) AND WILL WORK FINE WITH THE T-56 FLYWHEEL. IF YOU HAVE AN EARLIER BLOCK, LIKE I DO, THEN YOU NEED TO GO OUT AND FIND ANOTHER FLYWHEEL THAT HAS THE BOLT TO CRANK PATTERN AS THE 1986 AND OLDER FLYWHEELS HAVE. CENTERFORCE MAKES A FLYWHEEL FOR THIS APPLICATION AND DEPENDING ON WHICH DEALER YOU USE, IT CAN COST ANYWHERE FROM $240 TO $360 AS WHAT NOPI QUOTED ME. ONE MORE THING ABOUT THE FLYWHEEL FOR THE T-56, DON'T HOLD ME TO THIS, BUT I THINK THERE IS A DIFFERENCE IN THE BOLT PATTERN FOR THE PRESSURE PLATE TO BOLT ON TO THE FLYWHEEL THEN FROM A T-5.
BOTTOM OF ARTICLE:
LS1 T-56, DON'T BOTHER, THIS TRANNY IS COMPLETELY DIFFERENT. THE BELLHOUSING BOLT PATTERN IS DIFFERENT FROM THE REST.
THE TWO LARGE GAUGE WIRES YOU CUT OFF FROM THE 6 PLUG WIRE CONNECTOR ON THE AUTOMATIC SHIFTER ARE YELLOW AND PURPLE FOR EITHER 1988 OR 1987 AND OLDER, AFTER 1988 TO 1992 THE WIRES ARE I BELIEVE YELLOW AND GREEN, EITHER WAY, THEY WILL BE THE TWO LARGEST GAUGE WIRES ON THAT CONNECTOR. DO YOUR SELF A FAVOR AND LOOK IN THE MANUAL AND DO THE RESEARCH YOURSELF. SAME GOES FOR THE REVERSE LIGHT WIRES ON THAT SAME CONNECTOR. THE LAST TWO WIRES THAT ARE LEFT, I WOULD JUST LEAVE, CUT AND TAPE THEM UP SO THAT THERE IS NO CHANCE FOR BARE WIRE TO MAKE CONTACT WITH ANYTHING IN THE CAR.
STARTERS --- ONE OF MY FAVORITE SUBJECTS IN THE PAST. I WILL TRY TO BE NICE AND JUST SAY THAT THERE ARE SOME IDIOTS OUT THERE THAT BELIEVE THAT A STARTER FOR AN AUTOMATIC IS THE SAME FOR A MANUAL TRANNSMISSION, NO IFS ANDS OR BUTTS. WELL ALL I KNOW IS THAT WHEN I SWAPPED OUT THE AUTOMATIC FOR THE T-5, THE STARTER WOULD NOT FIT BECAUSE THE GEAR HOUSING WAS DIFFERENT IN SHAPE, DIDN'T HAVE TO DO IT FOR THE T-5 TO T-56 SWAP, BUT ACCORDING TO SOME PEOPLE, ON THAT AGAIN NOTORIOUS NAMELESS BOARD, WOULD SAY I DON'T KNOW WHAT I AM TALKING ABOUT. TELL YOU WHAT, SAVE YOURSELF SOME GRIEF AND GO AND TAKE YOUR STARTER TO THE AUTOMOTIVE PARTS STORE (I WOULD NOT RECOMMEND NAPA, JUST FROM PERSONAL EXPERIENCE) ASK THEM TO PULL ONE OF EACH OUT AND COMPARE THE TWO FOR YOUR YEAR AND MODEL. IT WILL SAVE YOU SOME TIME.
THE EYE-ROD ON THE NEW GM HYDRAULIC MASTER CYLINDER KIT FOR THE T-56 WILL NOT FIT ONTO THE POST OF THE STOCK CLUTCH PEDAL OUT OF A 1982-1992 CAMARO. YOU NEED TO REMOVE THE PLASTIC INSERT IN THAT EYE-ROD AND FIND A WAY TO KEEP THE ROD FROM SLIPPING OFF THE POST. I WILL NOT TELL YOU WHAT I DID SO THAT YOU DON'T COME RUNNING BACK TO ME IF YOU HAVE AN ACCIDENT. AS ALWAYS, I COULD BE WRONG AND JUST HAD A SPECIAL SITUATION IN MY CASE.
X-MEMBER (TRANSMISSION CROSSMEMBER) - HERE, I WOULD JUST SAY GO WITH THE SPOHN T-56 RETROFIT TORQUE ARM FOR THE 1982 - 1992 CAMARO/FIREBIRD. REASON BEING IS THAT FOR ONE THE BRACKET FOR THE EXHAUST IS A BITCH TO DEAL WITH WHEN TRYING TO GET THE TORQUE ARM BACK UP AFTER CUTTING IT DOWN TO THE CORRECT SIZE (REMEMBER THAT THE T-56 SITS BACK A COUPLE OF INCHES MORE THAN THE AUTOMATIC AND T-5 AND YOU NEED TO TAKE OFF I THINK AS ONE ARTICLE SAID, 1.9".....OOOK) ANOTHER REASON IS, HOW MANY TIMES HAVE YOU GONE THROUGH THOSE TRANSMISSION RUBBER MOUNTS?.....YOU WILL NEVER BREAK ONE AGAIN WITH THE SPOHN TORQUE ARM, BECAUSE IT RELOCATES THE TORQUE ARM TO THE X-MEMBER - MAKING IT VERY SOLID!! THAT AND YOU GET AN ADJUSTABLE TORQUE ARM AND A DRIVESHAFT SAFETY LOOP ALL COMBINED INTO THE TRANNY X-MEMBER. WHAT A DEAL!!
ONE MORE THING FOR YOU GUYS WHO HAVE THE 90-92 CAMARO ELECTRIC SPEEDOMETER (EVERYONE ELSE GO TO JAGS THAT RUN'S WEBSITE). DEPENDING ON WHAT YEAR MODEL AND ENGINE YOU HAVE DETERMINES THE TYPE OF SIGNAL YOUR VSS PUTS OUT. IT WILL BE EITHER A 2,000 PULSE PER MILE OR A 4,000 PULSE PER MILE SIGNAL, CHECK YOUR MANUAL. THE VSS ON 93 AND NEWER AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS PUTS OUT A 40,000 PULSE PER DRIVESHAFT REVOLUTION! BIG DIFFERENCE. I AM ASSUMING THAT THE T-56 VSS IS SIMILAR TO THE AUTOMATIC VSS IN 93 AND NEWER CAMAROS, BUT ITS DANGEROUS TO ASSUME SUCH A THING. ONE OPTION IS TO GO THE WEBSITE MENTIONED ABOVE (WWW.JAGSTHATRUN.COM) AND SPEND WELL OVER $300 DOLLARS FOR THE TAILSHAFT CONVERSION, OUCH!! OR THERE IS ANOTHER OPTION. CYBERDYNE APPARENTLY MAKES A CALIBRATION BOX THAT WILL TAKE CARE OF THIS PROBLEM. WELL I CALLED JEGS TO SEE IF THEY HAD ANY TECHNICAL INFO ABOUT THIS BOX AND AS USUAL IT'S ALWAYS BEST TO CALL THE MANUFACTURERS THEMSELVES. HERE'S WHAT I HAVE BEEN TOLD: CYBERDYNE DOES NOT RECOMMEND THEIR CALIBRATION BOX FOR ANY GM VEHICLE. APPARENTLY THEY HAVE HAD PROBLEMS WITH THE BOX CASUING PROBLEMS WITH THE ECM AND THE TCC. USE THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK, DON'T JUST GO OUT AND PURCHASE IT BECAUSE SOMEONE SAID THAT IT WORKS. DO YOUR HOMEWORK. SOME SAY THAT IT DOES WORK BUT CAN NOT GET AN EXACT READING ON THE SPEEDOMETER, OTHERS I HAVE NOT HEARD FROM, MAYBE THEY ARE HAVING PROBLEMS?...WHO KNOWS..... A THIRD OPTION IS TO MAKE A DIVIDER/MULTIPLIER CIRCUIT, SORRY I KNOW NOTHING ABOUT ELECTRONICS SO YOU ARE ON YOUR OWN WITH THIS ONE. A FOURTH OPTION IS TO GO TO DAKOTA DIGITAL'S WEBSITE AND ORDER THE 'SGI-5' SPEEDOMETER INTERFACE. THIS BOX COSTS THE SAME AS CYBERDYNE'S CALIBRATION BOX OFFERED BY JEGS. THEY HAVE A GREAT TECHNICAL SUPPORT AND ARE VERY FRIENDLY COMPARED TO CYBERDYNE AND
JEGS TECH PEOPLE. LAST OPTION IS FOR YOU TO FIGURE OUT SOMETHING YOURSELF. JUST DON'T LET THE VSS GO UNCONNECTED FOR A LONG PERIOD OF TIME, IT DOES MAKE A DIFFERENCE IN YOUR GAS MILAGE AND COULD BE THE REASON WHY MY ECM FRIED A 1,000 MILES AWAY FROM HOME, WHO KNOWS, ELECTRONICS IS SORT OF FUNNY IN MY OPINION, BUT THEN AGAIN WHAT DO I KNOW!
GOOD LUCK ON YOUR SWAP.
This article was written by Craig Skiles.
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Replacing a heater core in a thirdgen F-body
Replacing a Heater Core.
If you are like anybody else, your heater core will probably start leaking at the worst possible time. If your windows keep fogging up, or you smell coolant, or if your carpet is wet with antifreeze, then your heater core is probably leaking.
When my heater core went out, it gave little warning. I could smell a very faint antifreeze smell, but though it was coming from under the hood, then one day it totally blew leaving this large puddle on the passanger side floor.
If you are serious about working on your own car, then I highly reccomend getting one of these. This is a "Helms" manual, wich is what is used at the GM Dealerships. This is far superior to any other manual that is produced, and is worth its weight in gold. This is the personal one for my car. You will need to remove the radio and console around the radio. The Instrument panel trim will also need to be removed. I left the A/C controls hooked up, and just pulled it through the console.
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You will also need to remove the ducts that sit inside the console. The yellow circles mark the two bolt locations. The arrows are to let you know that although they can't be seen in the picture, this is the general area. You will need to remove this to better access more bolts behind them.
This is the case that covers the heater core. I have pictured it out of the car so that you can see the hidden bolt (circled in red). This is at the very top of the case and is hard to access. I used about 18" of 1/4" drive extensions right below the Map Pocket to access this bolt.
Once you remove the case, this is what you will see. The heater core is attached to a bracket. The Core and Bracket will need to be removed as an assembly. If you haven't done so already, you will need to remove the two heater hoses at the firewall from under the hood. Once again, the circles show where the four screws are located and the three with arrows are apoximate since they can't be seen in the picture.
The reason I had you remove the ducts in the radio console was so that you could access this screw (circled in red) and bend back that piece of plastic as the core/bracket is removed and installed. Be very careful. Years of thermal cycling (heating up and cooling down) makes these pieces very brittle.
All that is left of removing the core is to actually remove the heater core. Once removed, there are two retainers wich utilize a total of three screws (circled in red) remove these screws and seperate the two. Now you just have to re-attach the new core to the bracket and re-install.
While everything was apart, I found it a good time to fix some other items that needed fixing. Here, I have Hot-Glued the vinyl/foam covering of the radio console back to the console. Once the glue dried, it looked almost good as new. Fixing items like this made installation much easier and the end result was a better looking interior.
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Replacing a dashpad in a 3rdgen.
Replacing your Dash Pad
Much to my unfortunate surprise, one morning I went out to my car to go to work, and there were two huge cracks right down the center of my dash pad. Many places sell them new for between $400-500. I picked up a used one from the boneyard from a wrecked '86 Firebird for $15.
This is about the approximate location of the lower screws that hold the dash pad in place. There are a total of seven, and they require a 7mm (9/32) socket.
This is where you will find the top five screws. Once again, they are 7mm and very long. Careful not to drop one down the defroster ducts!
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Once all the screws are removed, lift up the front corner, and pull out. Remove completely from the car.
Now is the perfect oppurtunity to clean up a little, or replace any blown speakers, etc.. My speakers were blown, so I put these in (shown in picture).
Before you can put the new one in, you must transfer any parts needed over. I opted to throw away the "plastic grill" speaker covers, and re-use my cloth covered ones. I also had to re-install the side defoggers, since they were missing from the boneyard. Then simply re-install like it was taken out, then put all 12 screws back in place. The 5 long ones go up top, and the 7 short on the bottom.
All done!
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Installing White Faced Gauges
Here is your chance to go from This: To this:
First step is getting at the gauges. you will need to remove all the trim around the gauges, including some items you wouldn't think, like the fog light switch housing (Pontiac), to gain access to some of the trim bolts.
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With the trim gone, you can now start to remove the lens and gauge bezel (black plastic around the gauges) You don't need to remove the cluster, just the lens and bezel. So leave all the cluster bolts in place.
Here is what it looks like when you take the bezel off. (These are taken out of the car, which you will not have to do). You need to start by removing the Trip Odometer Reset button. Some screw out, others just pull out. Then remove the black little screws. It is reccomended that you do one gauge at a time, since the screws of some gauges are longer than others.
The trick to getting these on without removing the needles, is to feed the needle through the center hole, then fit the hole over the base of the needle. The hole is the same size as the base, so it just fits over it, but you won't notice once its all the way down. Just push the overlay down over the base of the needle, but be carefull not to scratch or crease the overlay! Then insert the black srews, but don't tighten them fully. The great thing about buying quality gauges, is that they are EXACT replicas (although white) to the originals, including the notches on the sides, which conveniently, can be used as alignment marks when tightening down the screws. Before snugging the screws down, make sure that all of your letters/numbers can be seen through the insert, otherwise, your cluster lights won't shine through. DO NOT overtighten the black screws, and make sure the cluster lights will shine through the numbers.
The TACH and SPEEDO are the easy ones, since they have one needle and two black screws. The other two pairs of gauges get tricky, w/ two needles each. Just take your time and don't crease the overlay!
This is also a great chance to make gauges that were not quite right, register properly. The TACH and OIL PRESSURE should both be at ZERO with the key on, engine off.
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The "Ultimate" TB Coolant Bypass
Many people have bypassed the coolant passage in the Throttle body to help keep the air charge cooler, thus helping in performance. The normal way to do this is to unhook both hoses from the Throttle Body and connect them together with a piece of pipe. While this is effective, it looks, well, rather hokey. Here is a way to bypass it and make it look good. This does require a little more work, but is well worth it.
The first step is to remove the Throttle Body from the Plenum. This will require disconnectiong the TP sensor, IAC motor, any vacuum lines, throttle cable, TV cable and Cruise if equipped, and then the four mounting bolts. Once off, unscrew the IAC motor and remove all of the IAC/coolant housing bolts and remove the housing. You will need a new gasket, wich can be purchesed from GM in a kit. Once removed, you will need to grind off the two nipples flush with the housing. In the picture you can see after grinding.
Once the nipples are cut off, some final fileing may be needed to ensure totall flushness. Then fill the voids with JB Weld or equivilant. I used cardboard behind the holes do give the JB Weld support so it wouldn't just run through the holes. After the first application was allowed to dry, a second application was applied so that there was excess.
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The blue is where the nipples used to be. After the second application was allowed to cure overnight, the excess was filed down so that it was completely smooth across the surface. Then it was final sanded, cleaned w/ paint prep (don't use anything real strong) and apply some coats of paint. I used Black engine enamal to help with the high temps. Once the paint is dry, it can be reinstalled. Bolt the housing back up to the Throttle Body using the new gasket. Screw the IAC motor back into the housing using the new gasket included in the kit. Then reinstall the Throttle Body to the Plenum and reattach all the vacuum lines, electrical connectors and throttle cables. I ran a new heater hose from the intake to the heater shutoff valve. If you go to the parts stores, you can usually find a pre-bent hose that will work.
Here are some pics of the final product:
Top left: Front veiw showing the shaved nipple. From above, this can't even be seen. Top right: Here is a side veiw if the other shaved nipple. Doesn't even look like anything was ever there. Left: Here is another shot, no nipples in sight, heater hose goes off, completly away from the TB, you'd never know it was supposed to be there if I didn't tell you.
[TECH INDEX] [HOME]

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Setting Minimum Air
Setting Minimum Air
Take a paper clip and insert the ends into the "A" and "B" pins of the ALDL. Turn on ignition but don't start car. Wait about 30 seconds, then disconnect the lead running to the IAC. Remove the paper clip.
You will need a #T-20 torx bit (tiny little momma) for this part. Start the engine. Set the idle speed to 450rpm if it isn't already. You will find the adjustment behind the throttle stop on the driver's side of the TB. From the factory, there is a tamper proof plug in place. It will need to be removed. It may not be there, or already be removed. If you can't find where to turn the screw, the plug is probably in place. If you can turn the screw, than the plug has been removed. Once it is adjusted turn off the engine.
Reconnect the lead to the IAC and start the engine. The computer (ECM) will control the idle rpm once again. You probably set a code for having the IAC disconnected. Just disconnect the negative lead on the battery for 30 seconds (book always says 5 min, but who has got that kind of time?)...to clear the error codes.
Written by: Mike Meyer aka "Lounge Lizard" for SETHIRDGEN.
[TECH INDEX] [HOME]
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Untitled
Udjusting your TPS (Tuned Port Injection)
This is a very simple procedure, and there are really three methods of determining actual voltage. You will need a very small Torx bit if you still use the factory bolts to retain the TPS to the Throttle Body. I cheated and used bolts from a hardware store so that I could make quick adjustments using a standard screwdriver.
First, you need to locate the TPS if you don't already know where it is. It is located on the right side (from sitting behind the steering wheel) of the Throttle Body. See picture below.
Now that we have found it, lets determine what method is right for you. My personal preference is to use a Scantool. I feel this is the BEST way, since it is reading what the computer sees. Just plug the Scantool into the ALDL connector and pull up the DATA list and look for TPS voltage.
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Untitled
Unfortunatly, not everybody has a Scantool. There are two other methods, but both require a DMM (Digital Multi-Meter).
The second way, is to use a thin paperclip, or similar type of thin, conductive apparatus. I use a paperclip in a bind, it seems to work well. You will need to carfully insert the unfolded paperclip into the connector. You will need to "tap" into the CENTER wire. Its the BLUE wire. Just slide it into the connector where the wire goes in at. Push it in untill it bottoms out. You may have to wiggle it some and see if it goes in further for a good contact. Then simply hook the "positive" lead of the DMM to the paper clip and the "negative" lead to a good ground. Turn the key "ON" and note the reading.
Untitled
The last method still uses a DMM, but seems to be the most common among the "tech" articles that are out there. You will need three jumper wires, with both ends stripped off. Unplug the TPS sensor, and install a jumper wire from cavity "A" (the top one) of the TPS, to cavity "A" of the connector. Do the same for cavity "C" (the bottom one). Now, install a jumper wire from cavity "B" (the center) of the TPS, but do not put it in the connector, instead, hood the positive lead of the DMM to it, and hook the negative lead to a good ground and note the reading.
Untitled
Hopefully, by now, you have figured out which one will work best for you. Once you decide, you will need to round up the appropriate materials. Once the initial reading is obtained, if it is incorrect, loosen the two mounting screws on the TPS and rotate it until the desired reading is obtained. Once it is obtained, tighten the screws down, and re-check. Do a few turns Wide Open Throttle and re-check. Factory specs are: .54 Volts, +/- .075. However, the best part of having an adjustable TPS is you don't have to stick with factory settings. You can play around with it to get the best throttle response or track times.
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Installing a Serpentine belt setup.
Replacing V-belts with Serpentine belt setup.
First you will need to acquire all of your parts. You will need the left and right brackets, A/C compressor, alternator, power steering pump, crank pulley, water pump (serpentine pumps spin backwards), pump pulley, suction/discharge A/C hose, belt, and the studs and bolts for everything. Most of this, if not all of it can be picked up at the boneyard, or other sources of used parts. If you are going to remove the smog pump, you will need to reroute the belt differently, causing you to need a different size belt. I used a Dayco 968K6. You can get this about anywhere that sells belts. I will talk about belt routing later. If you have '85-'87 TPI, you will also need to replace the metal fuel pipes that run in front of the engine. They are P/Ns: 10055875 & 10055874. They run from the fuel rail to the flex hoses (not shown)
This is a glimpse of what the stock V-belt setup looks like. It looks cluttered, is difficult to work on (too many akward brackets), the belts tend to squeal, and so on. Anytime you look up a procedure in a repair manual, they tell you to disconnect the negative battery cable, well, for this one, you definatly want to do that, since you will be altering the alternator wires.
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Once you disconnect the battery cable, you can commence work. you will need to have the A/C system sucked down by an A/C recovery machine, which means for most of you, taking it to a shop. You will also need to drain your coolant. Then remove the Air ducting going to the throttle body.
Since the A/C sytem is sucked down, we can go ahead and remove the A/C compressor. You will need to remove all the brackets and bolts that hold it in place. Don't just loosen them, take them all the way off and set them aside. Also remove the A/C lines from the back of the compressor.
You need to finish removing the A/C lines. You will need to undo the fitting at the condensor and the accumulator. ALWAYS use two wrenches to avoid twisting the line. The V-belt suction/discharge line is bulky and rather akward, and will help "clean up" the engine bay once gone.
Now we can remove the Alternator. Make sure you get the brackets off too, especially for the smog pump. Now is also an ideal time to remove the lower radiator hose. One thing to mention is the fuel lines. What you see in the picture is not what you will have, these are custom lines to adapt a Y-body fuel rail to an F-body car. If you have the '85-'87 TPI, you will need to replace the metal fuel lines.
Next step is to remove the water pump. Don't even bother removing the pully, just remove the four bolts that hold it on. Set these four bolts aside from the heap of V-belt crap, since you will need to reuse these on the new water pump. Once the pump is gone, you can remove the power steering pump. The fitting on the back is a 16mm, and since you must reuse this line, it is reccomended you break it free with a flare nut wrench.
The last step to freeing yourself from the V-belt nightmare is to remove the Crank pulley. There are three 5/8" (16mm) bolts that bolt it to the balancer, and one crank bolt in the middle. While you are down there, put the new one on.
Now is the time to start putting brackets on. There is one stud on the passanger side. Hopefully you got the bolts and studs with the brackets, since there are several different sizes. It is best to put the stud in first, so that you have something to hold the bracket in place while you line other stuff up. If the Torx bolts didn't get stripped out during removal, you can reuse them, if so, you will need to find a suitable alternative.
There are two small studs for the drivers side bracket. You can also hang the bracket without ever removing the powersteering pump. This is good, since it requires a special tool to do so. After you get the bracket tightened down, hook your lines up. It may be easier to get the line started, then hang the bracket. Make sure it is good and tight, just don't round it off.
Now is also a good time to install the new A/C suction/discharge line. It is reccomended that you use new O-rings, and don't forget to lubricate them with Mineral Oil (R-12 oil) even if you are using R-134. PAG/POE oil is NOT good for A/C orings, USE ONLY mineral oil on the o-rings. Also, don't forget to double wrench them to tighten the fittings, and don't over tighten. They are made of soft aluminum.
The alternator can now be installed. Your leads won't reach, since it is moved from the other side, but we will worry about that later. There should also be another bracket to support the back of the alternator. The one I used runs from the back of the alternator, down to the first stud on the exhaust. Make sure you have it! Most alternator manufacturers warranties are void if this isn't used, and it says so in the warranty! Make sure you install it.
When you put the water pump on, make sure you use sealant on the bolts. I reccomend liquid teflon which is available at most parts stores. Also, use new gaskets, and install them dry! NO RTV!!! You don't need it. Then put the pulley on.
The A/C compressor can be mounted and the lines hooked up. If you are using the smog pump, install that also and use the factory diagram to install the belt. If you are not using the smog pump, use the alternate routing shown below. Make sure you use new O-rings on the compressor and remember, use mineral oil.
1988 Belt Routing
1989-1992 Belt Routing Smog Pump Delete Routing
You will now need to alter the wiring to accomodate the new location of the alternator and compressor. The wires for the compressor will need to be shortened (or you could just roll them up and tuck away) and the alternator wires will need to be lengthened. Make sure you use suitable gauge wire to lenghten the battery lead to the alternator stud, since with a partially discharged battery, or under high load, the alternator could try and pass 60+ Amps through it! Take care of any finishing touches, top off the P/S fluid and coolant and doublecheck everything. You can now have your A/C system Evacuated (sucked to a vacuum) and recharged.
Before and After
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Siamese/Port your TPI base.
Siamese and/or port your TPI Base
If you are interested in porting, siamesing, or both to your TPI base, this if for you. You can opt to just port it, or siamese and port it. Stock TPI bases are very restrictive, and every little bit counts.
You will need a few basics, like the porting bits. 1: cartridge rolls and a long shank 2: assorted grinding bits 3: cross buff kit. You will also need someting to operate the bits. An electric drill or air powered tool will work. You will also need the TPI base. I reccomend finding a spare, so that your car will not be down the entire time, and if you go to far, you won't be out a car till another can be found!
You can also go ahead and get a new set of intake gaskets, since you will need them to install the new intake. You can use the gaskets to outline the ports so you know how much to take off. You can see how much larger the gasket is compared to the manifold. You want them to be the same size. Also notice the
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casting bumps in the port.
The only real instruction needed once you mark the gasket, is to grind grind grind! One point to mention is that the arrows on the left point out what seems to be the biggest restriction. This is where I remove most of my material. I used a socket that just barely fits in the port as a guage so that as I grind, I can make sure the diameter remains consistant. Once the socket will pass all the way through, I use the sanding cartirdges to smooth it out.
If you are going to siamese the intake, you will also need a large cutoff wheel, and a dremel w/ a small cutoff wheel. Use the large wheel to cut two horizontal grooves to remove the wall that seperates paired runners. Then with the dremel and small wheel, cut out the back so the piece can be removed.
Here is the "wall" that will be removed. This can be discarded. Now you will need to use the same porting bits to remove all the sharp edges and make everything a smooth transition.
On the left is a just started pair of ports, and on the right is a completed pair. Once you are done grinding, use the sanding rolls to smooth it out, and then you can use the Cross Buffs to make the whole port smooth as glass. Since this is a dry manifold, it is OK to make the ports real smooth.
This manifold is ready to be cleaned and installed. Since the ports on the head side were gasket matched to the lower intake gasket, it is best to do the same on the cylinder head if it is removed. Obviously, if the heads are still on the motor, this isn't practicle, but is a suggestion if the heads are off.
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Swapping a LT1 intake into a 1st
Gen Small Block Chevy
John Millican's:
Swapping a LT1 intake into a 1st Gen Small Block Chevy
People told me it won't fit. I asked more people, still no. Found a rumor one person has done it but I couldn't get in touch with him. I decided to try myself. I bought a used LT1 intake off of e-bay for $100 including fuel rails. Not bad, I figured if it doesn't work out I'm only out $100. Right? You say it's impossible? Won't bolt up? Well your right but ANYTHING is possible when cost is a factor. Here's some of the biggest issues you're going to run into and a quick explanation of what to do about it. Problem #1, in case you haven't noticed there's no rear distributor on a LT1. I had to drill the hole for it, warning-this hole must be in perfect location. I used a old TPI base and made an aluminum template utilizing the rear two mounting holes to locate the dist hole. Distributor must be shimmed about 1/4" higher due to the shortness of the LT1 intake. Also must use the small HEI distributor with remote coil found on 1987-later. Problem #2, there are several problems with the STOCK LT1 intake but the ports and coolant passages are not one of them. What I did before I started was get a cheap $6 intake gasket from DAP and just laid it on the intake (already off the car), everything was perfect except for some of the mounting holes, the 4 corner ones were good. No problem, I took the gasket as a temple and drilled the new holes in the intake, no more
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Swapping a LT1 intake into a 1st
Gen Small Block Chevy
problem.
Problem #3, No front coolant passages to return to the radiator. Well, I just drilled and tapped two 3/4" heater nipples vertically where the coolant would normally exit the head. I will run 3/4" heater hose to a remote thermostat housing I found on-line. it will be mounted on the fender well. It will use the same outlet neck and return to the radiator as it should. Problem #4, must have custom fuel lines made to attach to the fuel rail of the LT1. About $40 if you supply the ends. Available from Pep Boys. Problem #5, the was a temp sensor in the front of the TPI intake base, it's for the computer temp info. I will have to mod the remote thermostat housing for an additional hole.
Now for the detailed explanations

Acquiring the parts Modifying for the distributor Modifying the bolt pattern Modifying the coolant route Modifying the fuel lines Minor mods Final pictures
[Millican's Home Page] [SETHIRDGEN] [Tech Index]
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Installing a 3-wire Heated Oxygen Sensor --SETHIRDGEN.ORG--
Installing a 3-wire Heated Oxygen Sensor
This is primarily advisable if you have headers. Headers tend to cool the exhast gasses down, which in turn can affect Oxygen Sensor performance. To combat this, a self-heated sensor can be installed, to ensure proper operation regardless of exhaust temp, and also provide shorter times to closed loop operation. I will spare you the details on actually installing the sensor, since it doesn't take a brain surgeon, just a 7/8" wrench, sensor socket, or crowsfoot and some of your time. The reason for this article is to explain how to properly wire it up. First, you will need the parts. I perfer to use AC Delco parts. The quality is unsurpassed. Also to ensure proper installation, and easy replacement in the future, it is reccomended that you purchase the "pigtail" or connector w/ leads, so that the sensor can easily be plugged and unplugged as needed. The part numbers for these two items are: 3-wire Heated Oxygen Sensor: 25176708 GM List: $109.00 3-wire Weatherpack Connector: 12126012 GM List: $29.34
You will notice the sensor has two white wires and one black. The white wires can be interchanged, polarity does not matter. Once must go to a good clean ground, either on the body or the engine block, and the other must go to a 12V switched ignition source (Power w/ the key in the "RUN" position). Many people tap into the MAF power wires if you have a MAF sensor, but any "hot" wire in RUN only will work. It can't be HOT all the time, or you will drain your
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Installing a 3-wire Heated Oxygen Sensor --SETHIRDGEN.ORG--
battery. The black wire goes to the stock PURPLE wire that originally went to your one-wire Oxygen sensor. This is the signal wire to the ECM.
Here is a schematic:
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CS-144 Conversion for your thirdgen
Upgrading your charging system to a CS-144
If your thirdgen is like anybody elses, you've probably noticed that the little 105 Amp, even if working properly, is hardly sufficient to power all of today's most popular accessories. I run dual cooling fans; both wired to come on together, I run the A/C, and amplifier, and with head lights on and wipers, the alternator is ready to fry. One way to correct this is to install a CS-144, 140 Amp alternator. These are large units. It was often "rumored" that B4C thirdgen "cop cars" had a CS-144 alternator from the factory, but it is yet to be proven. The largest you can find in any parts catalog for these cars, even at the dealer, was 105 Amp.
First thing you will need to do is aquire the parts. Here are the part numbers: Bracket: 10118722 Alternator: 10463338 It was beleived that the alternator and bracket were from the "B4C" Camaros, but actually, the bracket was used on early model Caprices and Cadillac Eldorados to upgrade to a 120 Amp alternator. These parts can be obtained from any GM dealer or any online source that sells GM parts. You will also need some hardware (bolts and nuts) to fit the alternator to the bracket. I don't remember the sizes I used, but when I find out, I'll update.
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Since these two parts were never designed to go together, some modifications are required. The casing on the mammoth CS144 is to big for the support bracket, so some grinding must be done for it to sit in the bracket. Its better to remove some from the casing, then it is to remove from the support. You only need to remove maybe a 1/16 of an inch. You'll have to test fit untill both bolt holes line up. This is actually the bottom of the alternator, so you won't see it when your done. Once its ready to instal, go ahead and remove the Negative Battery Cable. Then remove your alternator.
Next, you will install the bracket just like you would an alternator using the same holes and bolts. Go ahead and tighten them down.
Set the alternator inside the bracket and use your new hardware to mount it to the bracket. Unfortunatly, you will not be able to use the old support on the rear of the alternator. I have yet to find a suitable substitute, but if and when I do, I'll update. Go ahead and hook up your plug (yes the original plug works!) and your charging cable. Also comes the matter of a belt. I do not have the smog pump, so my accessories are routed a little differently. I was using a 968K6 belt, but after the alternator swap, I had to move up a size to a 987K6 belt (2510mm). If you are still using a stock setup (smog pump) you'll just have to try some larger sizes and see what works.
Here is the front and side view of it installed. Its much larger, but it still clears the valvecovers and there is still plenty of room to shut the hood. I noticed after the swap that the original charging wire was way to small and it got very hot. This is one thing you don't want to skimp on! I just purchased a new GM battery cable (I picked through several to find the size I needed). I'd post the P/N, but my setup is not stock, so it may not work for you. I also purchased a long battery bolt and spacer so that I could run dual cables, one to the alternator and the stock one down to the starter. [Tech Index] [Home]
Fix a sagging door on your 1982-1992 Camaro or Firebird
Fixing a sagging door
This is a very common problem, especially on 3rd Generation F-bods since the newest one is still eight years old, and go up to eighteen! So having a sagging door is nothing new to many owners. Hopefully this will provide some relief. There are two reasons why a door sags, and each instance needs a different repair. In case you can't see it in the picture on the right, this is a worn out hinge pin. All you have to do is raise and lower the door, and you will see all the slop in the pin and bushing. This obviously needs replaced.
Replacing the pin and bushing requires a little patience. First step is to put masking tape on the forward edge of the door and the rear edge of the fender. This will reduce the likelihood of the paint chipping when removing/installing the door. Then remove the spring between the door and body. Be careful, this spring packs a mean punch. You can get the proper tool to remove the spring from places like Harbor Freight tools. Its very inexpensive and will be a relief when it comes time to install the spring. You can try and tap out the pin and then unbolt the upper hinge, or vice versa, I did the pin first. I would highly recommend having a friend help you, there is too much going on to try and balance the heavy door end on a floor jack. There will be enough slack in the door wiring harness (if applicable) to move the door far enough out to knock out the bushing. This is a new pin and bushing installed. You can't see from this picture, but my top hole on the bottom hinge was also worn out, but there is no bushing. I simply drilled the hole out oversize and tapped a bushing in there also. You will then need to re-install the spring. A little word of advise when replacing the pins/bushings:
http://www.sethirdgen.org/sagdoor.htm (1 of 3) [4/10/2004 11:43:13 PM]
The pins simply tap out, but it may be difficult to get something on the end of the pin to tap on. You can also take vice grips and clamp unto the center of the pin, and tap on the vice grips to move the pin. Also note that the bushings are BRITTLE and if not installed carefully will crack and break.
You must orient the bushings properly. If the old ones installed from the bottom-up like pictured, you must install the new one the same way. To install like pictured above, I would place a socket larger than the bushing on top of the hole, then use a wooden paint stirrer on the bottom of the bushing. Channel locks work great for "squeezing" it all together. You need to use the channel locks to press the bushing into place. The socket will allow the top of the bushing protrude out of the hinge and the wood stirrer will prevent damage to the soft bushing. If the bushing installs from the top-down, then just reverse the procedure (socket at the bottom of the hole, stirrer and bushing on top of the hole).
The other "Cause/Correction" is simply a sagging hinge and you just need to bend it back. The pins and bushings may be OK, but the door still sags. This is simply due to gravity pulling on the heavy doors. The tools you will need is pictured on the right. They are available from a variety of places, this one in particular was from MAC Tools (PN: DHA7554) and retails for $55.95. Set-up is a snap and even easier to use.
Once properly installed, all you need to do is give a few short "tugs" upwards. This is a "trial and error" type deal. Give it a few tugs and then take it off and test fit it. If it needs more, hook it back up and do some more. After the final fit is obtained, you will be surprised with the difference. Most body shops should have this tool, and probably any dealership, if you wish to not purchase the tool.
Replacing your broken air dam.
Replacing your broken Air Dam
This is a real easy procedure, even if you don't have a lift. Simply raise the vehicle up and support it. (Jack stands perfered). Then remove the remains. Below, you can see that this one was held together with zip-ties and bailing wire. This was done on a 1987 Pontiac Trans Am. Other models and years will vary.
When you order your new Air Dam from GM, remember that there is an upper deflector and a lower deflector. On this car, the upper took most of the abuse. You will probably need both. Below is the abused lower deflector, and the upper is in four pieces.
To remove the lower deflector, from the factory, it is held in place by several 7mm screws. This car had more bailing wire than it did screws, so it all had to be cut apart. The upper deflector is held in place by several 10mm bolts. Remove these also. The new upper deflector comes from GM painted glossy gray for about $20. Since most of my car is black, I painted it black also. Then install it with the 10mm bolts.
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Replacing your broken air dam.
Then simply screw the new lower deflector to the upper, and the rest of the body with the 7mm screws. Start at the center and work your way out. This came from GM already black, and will set you back another $20. Once all tightened down, thats it! Now just remember not to pull up so close to those curbs!
[TECH] [HOME]
http://www.sethirdgen.org/airdam.htm (2 of 2) [4/10/2004 11:43:25 PM]
Paint Finessing
Paint "Finessing"
This is an all too typical "scuff" on some clearcoat. It appears to be from something being drug across the paint. Most scratches and scuffs, as well as "orange peel" can be "finessed" out, depending on severity. You need to tread lightly, most clearcoats can be 3-5 mils thick, and a typical "finesse" job can remove .51.0 mils of clear
If the scratch is very light, it may just need to be buffed out. However, if its deeper, then you'll need to "wetsand" it to blend it in with the surrounding paint. I prefer to use 2000 grit "wet-ordry" sand paper on a foam sanding pad. The foam pads are great because they absorb some water, they are flexible, and the end can be used as a squeegee like shown in the picture so you can gauge your progress. Remember, do only what is needed, to avoid removing excessive clearcoat. The final product should be a dull chalky appearance, however it should be smooth.
The first stage is to buff out the wetsanding scratches. I like to use a foam Meguires pad and some 3M Machine polish compound. I stay away from Wool Bonnets because they are very aggressive and can leave severe swirl marks and are more likely to "burn through" the paint. This is a W-8000 pad which is just right for working on wetsanded paint. One thing to look for when selecting a buffing compound is that it contains no WAX and no SILICONE. If you are working in a painting environment, or working on freshly painted surface, these are two things to avoid! 3M Machine Polish contains neither.
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Paint Finessing
Put some of the polishing compound on and begin to buff it out. Some people recommend most of the work be done between the 3 and 9 o'clock positions on the pad, and some recommend between 2 and 10 o'clock. You just need to experiment and see what works best for you. I favor the 2 & 10 position. You should see good results in just a few passes. I used a polisher from Harbor Freight tools. It has variable speed which I set at 1500 RPM and one great feature is that it comes with a Velcro backing which will let you use the Meguires pads.
The next step is to clean up whatever the buffing stage may have done (i.e. slight swirl marks) and to give it a finer gloss. I like to use 3M Swirl Mark Remover and a Meguires W-9000 foam pad. Its softer than the W-8000 pad we used in the previous step. You'll apply this just like the previous stage. Keep the pads and the polishing compounds separate. Don't use the soft pad with the polish and don't use the aggressive pad with the Swirl Mark remover. The pads should be dedicated for the polish you are using.
If this is a freshly painted panel, then simply clean off the excess compound with a soft, clean terry cloth towel and you are done. If this is an old panel, I like to finish it off and protect it with a good quality wax. Once the wax dries, it can be polished off using a polishing cloth or a clean, soft terry cloth towel. Don't forget to get all the excess out of the cracks and seams!
And here is the final product! You'd never even know there was a scratch there!
http://www.sethirdgen.org/finessing.htm (2 of 2) [4/10/2004 11:43:48 PM]
Installing a Strut Tower Brace - SETHIRDGEN.ORG
Installing a Strut Tower Brace

First you need to size up the brace. Lay it on the strut towers, get it centered, and turn the threaded portions on each end (if it has them) to get it the right length.
Once its centered, use some masking tape to mark the location of the ends, that way if something moves, its easy to put it exactly back where it was withough having to recenter it.
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Scribe the holes, drill them out, then paint over the exposed metal.
Bolt on the end and make sure it lined up w/ the masking tape.
Install the other side, then set the bar down on the ends and bolt it up. Once its all tight, you can tighten the jamb nuts on the bar so it doesn't turn. Make sure its level!
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Replacing a Convertible Top
Here is what the top on the car looked like. It was a cheap vinyl top that was poorly intalled.
First lets go over the names of parts for the folding mechanism. The entire folding mechanism is call the "Top Stack". Here are some parts that make up the Top Stack:
A: Bow #1 B: Bow #2 C: Bow #3 D: Bow #4 E: Bow #5 F: Backlight Staypad

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G: Quarter section headliner (front section removed) H: Rear Rail I: Top Retention Cable J: Side Staypad
First you need to remove the two elastic straps that are screwed to the folding assembly. They help retain the corners at the rear of the windows.
The only thing that holds the back of the top in place is cement. Its glued to Bow #5. Once you remove the elastic straps, you can peel the top off of Bow #5.
Once you peel the top off of Bow #5, remove the side rail weather strips. They may be glued in place, they may not, just be careful!
Now remove the three screws that holds the weather strip retainer in place and you can peel the top away from the side rail area.
Now we need to remove the front of the Top. Remove the large black trim piece (aka Garnish Molding) from around the latches and remove all the screws from the Top's edge retainer.
Under the retainer, the Top is glued to Bow #1. Simply peel it back as well.
You will find the retention cable threaded through the sides of the top and screwed to Bow #1. Remove this screw, one on each side.
With the top peeled back more, you can start to remove the Front Headliner. The very front edge is glued to Bow #1, simply peel it back. Then, there is an attachment to Bow #2, which simply clips to the bow. Use a small screwdriver and pry down on the long plastic clip.
Once you remove the headliner from Bow #2, you will notice that the Top is attached to Bow #2. To attach the top, there is a "pocket" sewn to the top all the way across with a metal rail inside, then the rail it screwed to the Bow. Remove the three screws that attach the rail to the Bow, pull the top away from the Bow and slide the rail out.
Now you can remove the remainder of the Front Headliner. It bolts to Bow #3 with several screws. Remove these screws and remove the front headliner from the car.
With the Front Headliner removed, pull back on the Rear Headliner and remove the three screws that holds the rail that attaches the Top to Bow #3 (just like whats used on Bow #2). Pull the pocket out of the Bow and slide the metal rail of the of the pocket. You should now be able to completely remove the top from the Frame.
Lay the new Top on the Frame assembly and center it. You will now need to thread the retention cables through the pocket on the new Top. I used a coat hanger that I straightened out and put a small hook on the end and pushed the hanger through the pocket, hooked the cable it and pulled it through. The cable may be to flexible to simply push it through. The cable is spring loaded, so once threaded, you'll have to stand the top up to screw the retaining bolt in.
Now you need to feed the metal rails through the pockets of the new top. I used a sharp punch to line the holes up, then dropped the rail down in the Bow and started the screws. You need to do this for Bow #3 and Bow #2.
Take your cement and put a layer on the Side Rail of the folding assembly and on the Top. Press it firmly down and smooth out any wrinkles or bubbles. The edge of the top (next to the rear of the window) should be at the corner of the rail.
Install the Weather Strip retainer to help secure the Top in place. Don't install the weather strip yet, in case you need to make adjustments.
You now need to cement both sides of Bow #5 and attach the top. You will need to trim some of the "flap" off and tuck it under the weatherstrip. Smooth out any wrinkles and bubbles. Do not lower Bow #5 until the glue dries, because the tension on the top will pull all of this out.
This next step is something I did, to help retain the top to Bow #5. Its something you have to be VERY careful if you want to do. First, I made a set of screws that were very short and have no point. I just took some short self tapping screw, and cut and filed the tips off. I then drilled through the "flap" of the Top at the seams and through Bow #5. You must drill VERY SLOWLY so that once you penetrate the metal, STOP or you will puncture the top. Make sure the screw does not protrude past Bow #5 or it will puncture the Top.
Here is the screw installed. Double check to make sure the tip of the screw does not protrude out of the other side! I was able to trim it so that it sits flush. This will help keep the sides from peeling away.
Now test fit the front edge of the Top. You want it some what snug and no wrinkles. I got it like I wanted and temporarily held in place with clothespins.
Stand the top up and glue the edge to the #1 Bow. I left the clothespins in place until the glue dried.
Put the retainer back in place with all the screws previously removed. You will also need to glue the edge of the headliner to the bottom of the Bow as seen here. I lined the old holes in the headliner up with the trim holes in the bow so that I knew I had it back on right. You may want to shut the top and inspect from inside to make sure the liner is pulled tight evenly (no wrinkles between Bow #1 and #2).
Re-install the Garnish Molding that goes across the top and around the handles.
Re-install the Rail Weather Strip. There is a "Tab" on both sides of the weather strip that must be tucked into its appropriate channel on both sides of the retainer. Double check the alignment and fit of all the seals and the rest of the top.
The only think left is to stand back and admire!
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Adjusting the TV Cable: 4L60 (700R-4)
This is a very simple and misunderstood procedure. The transmission uses the TV Cable to adjust pressures according the throttle position. With the throttle at WOT, the TV Cable should be maxed out. To acheive this, follow this procedure: The absolute first step is to find the TV Cable adjusting mechanism. If you don't have a clue, it is on a bracket with a cable going to the throttle linkage. A TPI is shown, but the TBI and Carb are similar.
The next step is to push in on the "D" button on the adjuster mechanism. While pushing down on the button, you need to push in the cable retainer until it bottoms out. You may have to push very hard on the "D" button, it may be stiff.
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Once the cable retainer is bottomed out, then you need to turn the throttle blades (by turning the throttle linkage) all the way. This may require some effort, since the TV Cable will need to ratchet out of the adjuster. Rotate the throttle all the way and the adjuster will "ratchet" out. Once you are sure the throttle is all the way, then no further adjustments are needed. DO NOT open the throttle from the gas pedal, this may cause inaccurate adjustments.
[HOME] [TECH INDEX]
http://www.sethirdgen.org/tvcable.htm (2 of 2) [4/10/2004 11:46:05 PM]
Installing a Corvette Servo into your 700R-4
Tranny Upgrade Part I (Corvette Servo)
This seems to be one of the most popular tranny upgrades next to a shift kit, and usually done in conjunction with a shift kit. The Corvette's "YDM" transmission is unique to all other 4L60s (700R-4) in part to its very large 2nd Apply Piston. Take a look at the picture: This is the piston housing. The Corvette's is on the left, and the standard F body is on the right. There is actually a third size (not shown) that has an even larger piston size used for non-performance vehicles.
The other half to the servo is the piston. Once again, the YDM (Corvette) is on the left and the F-body on the right. Notice the substantial difference in size. The larger piston allows for more holding power.
http://www.sethirdgen.org/servo.htm (1 of 4) [4/10/2004 11:47:28 PM]
Installation is a snap, and some good news: 1) you won't have to lower the transmission, and 2) you only loose about a quart of fluid. First thing you need to do is raise the car up, either with jackstands or a lift, ramps, or whatever you have, just make sure it is safe. Then locate the servo cover (painted black in this picture). There is a snap-ring to hold it into place. I cheated and used the "special GM tool" to depress the cover to remove the ring, but a simple prybar against the transmission tunnel will work, then just pry out the ring, and remove the cover.
The cover has a large O-ring around it and may make it difficult to remove, just make sure you purchase new seals, because this one will probably tear. When you order the servo, it will come with Teflon rings, but you will need the Cover O-ring, and the Housing O-ring. Once the cover is off, the trick is to disassemble the servo in the case. First remove the housing. Then remove the E-clip, washer and spring.
Cover and 4th (overdrive) Piston removed.
Cover, 4th Piston, E-clip, Washer, Spring, and Housing removed.
Once all of this is removed, you will probably need to employ the services of a friend. You will need to pry the transmission towards the drivers side (or away from the passenger side). You may need to take the nut off of the crossmember to allow more movement. You want to pry it over far enough so that the apply piston will clear the transmission tunnel with the servo attached. If you have to lower your trans to get it out, just make sure you remove your distributor cap so you don't risk breaking it. I didn't have to lower mine.
Once out, you will see that there is a "plate" inside the piston and is spring loaded. You will need to squeeze this together and remove the snap-ring. Once apart, the servo will separate from the pin/spring assembly. Simply install the new servo onto the pin, squeeze the assembly back together and install the snap-ring. Install the new seals and use ATF to lubricate the assembly. When you go to put the assembly back in the trans, look out for the spring still in the case. It may still be on the "nub" or it may have fallen. If you feel inside the case, you will see the hole for the pin is in a raised "nub" and the spring must rest around this nub. Then pry on he tranny again and install the assembly. Once in, push on the assembly, it should feel springy. If it does, its in right.

On the left is the Piston. Make sure you get a new seal (as shown, RED). The side you see goes in towards the transmission. On the right is the 4th Piston. Notice the nub on top. This goes towards the outside of the transmission.
Install the Piston, and then the 4th Piston. Once all in place, install the cover (with new seal of course). Using the same method for removal, depress the cover into the case, and install the snap-ring. Re-install everything that was undone, lower the car, and check you fluid level and add as necessary. Enjoy!
Part Numbers: Piston: 8642079 Housing: 8673039
[TECH INDEX] [HOME]
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Changing speedo gears (4L60/700-R4)
This is a fairly simple procedure. First, you need to determine what speedo gears you need. There are many "gear calculators" out there, to tell you the drive/driven gear tooth count, or they tell you what color you need. I replaced my speedo gears since I went from 2.73s to 3.73s and this is a large step, wich would have resulted in about a 15 MPH error in the speedo.
If you are putting in 3.73s, I can tell you that you need the gray drive gear, and light blue driven gear. Part numbers: 25513052; 8642620 After you get the gears you need, you will have to remove the Torque Arm and Driveshaft. There are only two bolts holding the T/A on, and it will slide right out of the bushing. Then the driveshaft bolts are 11mm to remove the two U-joint straps and remove the shaft. This is a back view of the tranny with the T/A and Driveshaft removed. You will need to remove the "sleeve" if it has a speedo cable, and the "VSS" if it has an electric speedo. This is a 10mm bolts, and simply pry it out.
http://www.sethirdgen.org/vss.htm (1 of 4) [4/10/2004 11:47:52 PM]
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Here is my VSS with the old "red" gear installed. It simply pulls off, and slide the new gear on. It should slip on and off easily. On the right is the new Lt Blue gear.
There are four 15mm bolts that hold the tailhousing on. Once you remove the bolts, the tailhousing will pull right off. Pull straight back so you don't scratch the driveshaft support bushing.
Here is the "drive" gear. It is almost pressed on. There is also a retaining clip to keep it from moving around on the shaft.
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You must be careful in removing the gear, so you don't damage the clip. You will need to press in on the end of the clip, as you move the gear off the shaft. Like said earlier, it is almost pressed on the shaft, so you will need something to help you remove the gear. I use a 32mm wrench to "tap" it off the shaft. If you don't get the gear to clear the clip, you will damage the clip.
Here is a close-up of the clip, so that you know what you are working with. I know what you will think when you tap the gear off and the clip goes flying. "OH no, there are TWO holes in the output shaft, and I didn't see which hole the clip went into". Relax. When you go to put the drive gear on, install the clip in the hole towards the FRONT of the car, then install the tailhousing on the tranny, and make sure the VSS hole is centered on the drive gear.
I used the same 32mm wrench to install the new gear. It can be tricky, because you need to line the clip hole of the gear, to the hole in the output shaft. It has to be lined up perfectly, because once the gear is installed, it can not be rotated on the shaft. Remember, put the clip in the foward hole, and VERIFY the VSS hole is CENTERED on the drive gear.
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If you had a leaking output shaft seal like I did, now is the perfect time to replace it. Its real easy now, since you don't have the output shaft in the way. You will need to order the seal, and tailhousing square-cut seal (shown here) when you order the gears. Once this is done, re-install the tailhousing.
Put the VSS (or sleeve) back in the tailhousing. You may need to turn the output shaft to get the two speedo gears to mesh. Once installed, you will need to hook the electrical connector back up (or put the speedo cable back on). Re-install the T/A and driveshaft, and thats it.
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T-5 Speedo Gear Swap
Replacing Speedo Gears on a T-5 Manual Transmission
Yes, replacing the speedometer drive gear in a T-5 tranny is much harder than its counterpart, the 700R-4, but its still something that can be done in the driveway by average DIYers, w/ common handtools. The first step is to remove the center console. Then remove the rubber shifter boot bolted to the transmission tunnel. With the transmission in Nuetral (and parking brake on), remove the four bolts holding the shifter to the tranny. the shifter removed, you will now need to remove the roll pin in the "offset shift lever". You will need to tap the roll pin straight down enough for the shift shaft to move freely. Don't try to remove it, just make sure it moves independantly of the shift shaft. Now raise and support the vehicle. Release the parking brake (the wheels need to be able to turn). Remove the driveshaft, be very careful of the U-joint endcaps, then can easily fall off and the needle bearings may fall out. Remove the top bolt of the Torque Arm mount and remove the outer half of the mount. This will allow you to move the Torque Arm towards the drivers side and up against the body. With a jack under the tranny, remove the crossmember bolts starting w/ the tranny mount nut (1) then the four bolts (2-5). Once this is done, you can lower the tranny and let it hang (the engine mounts will support it). Now is also a great time to replace your mount if it is shot or upgrade. There are only two bolts holding it on at this point.
WithWith
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You may need to remove the remainder of the Torque Arm mount, and you may not. This vehicle had a large vibration dampner on the end of it, so it had to come off. There are two long bolts holding it on, one welded to the bracket, both w/ nuts on the other side. The bracket is not removable untill the tranny is lowered away from the body. Once you have the tranny lowered, you can remove the 8 bolts holding the extension housing to the case. Make sure you have a large catch pan, you will loose about 3-4 quarts. Once you remove the 8 bolts, you can break the seal loose by tapping on the end of the extenion housing. Once you break the seal, let the fluid drain out. Then reach on top of the housing and grap the offset shift lever (the item we tapped the roll pin out of earlier) and guide it off the shift shaft as you slide the extension housing off the output shaft/shift shaft. Be very carefull once you remove the extension housing. The offset shift lever has a spring loaded ball in it and you don't want to lose them or the roll pin that you tapped out.
You can now start to remove the plastic speedo drive gear. Two words of caution. The gear is fragile, and has been known to shatter if handled to roughly, and the gear is retained by a metal clip. You will need to push down on the retaining tap while you gently tap the gear off. I use a 30mm open ended wrench against the gear, then tap on the wrench to remove the gear. Getting the new gear on can be a challenge. Removing the gear, you found out how tight of a fit it is. You will have to tap the new gear on also. You will also have to be very carefull in lining up the gear w/ the clip. If it isn't lined up, you will have to remove the gear and try again. Place the clip in the hole and tap on gear over the clip. Make sure it locks in on teh gear (like it was when you removed it). The driven gear (located on the VSS sender or cable housing) can easily be accessed now, and should now be swapped out if needed.
Now that you are ready for re-assembly, make absolutely sure the bearing and plastic funnel are still on the 5th gear (overdrive) assembly. These are very important if not in place, and can easily have fallen off during dissasembly.
With that said, you can now put the extension housing back on. If you noticed that there was no gasket or O-ring, you are correct. You should use the reccomended sealant, wich is Anerobic Sealer. Use it just like RTV and spread it evenly over the mating surface. Once you slide the extension housing over the shafts, you will need to reach back on top of the housing and guide the offset shift lever back on the shift shaft. This is tricky because you need to make sure the spring and ball are installed into the offset shift lever and that they didn't fall out. You may need to crawl up inside the car halfway through installation to make sure its going together properly. Install the 8 housing bolts. Reinstall the remaining removed components (Torque Arm mount, crossmember, Torque Arm and driveshaft). Once you get under the car all back together, remove the fill plug on the side of the tranny (there are two plugs, the lower being the drain, and the upper being the fill). My secret to filling this back up easily, it to pour the fluid into the top of the extension housing since the shift lever is out. It has a drainback hole, and you can't overfill because once it gets to the proper level, the remaining will flow out the fill hole. Then reistall the fill plug. You will need to align the hole in the shift shaft w/ the hole in the offset shift lever so the rollpin can be re-installed. Tap in the rollpin and reintall the shift lever and shifter boot, along w/ the center console. Make a quick double check that everything is tight and there are no extra parts, and enjoy!
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700R4 700R4 700R4 adjustments 700R4 700R4 700R4 700R4 700R4 700R4 700R4 700R4
700r4 700r4 700r4 700r4 700r4 700r4 700r4 700r4 700r4 700r4 700r4 700r4 700r4 700r4 700r4 700r4 700r4
700R4 / 4L60 Transmission FREE

"Advisory Tip Sheet"
This information is provided for the non-transmission mechanic to help them identify the problem, know how much the job should cost and how to have the problem corrected. This information could save you hundreds even a thousand dollars or more.. This transmission has been in use since 1982. This means there are plenty of used, rebuilt and new hard parts available at low prices. The cost of a rebuilt 700R4 transmission and torque converter installed in a car or two-wheel drive truck at our shop is $880.00 as of October 2003. This comes with a 6 month or 6,000 mile warranty. The cost may be higher in your area. Never allow a repair shop to give you a price on this transmission that isnt a guaranteed price. This means dont get a price plus hard parts. They know about what the parts will cost. Remember the parts arent high on this transmission. Get the price before the transmission is removed from the car or truck. If they cant give you a price up front, youre at the wrong shop. When you have a problem with your transmission always check the fluid level and condition first. The fluid should be red, not dark brown or black. Smell the fluid to see if it smells like oil or has a burnt smell. Look in the oil pan for trash (debris) from a clutch or metal part failure. A very small amount of debris could be normal. If the fluid is black, smells burnt or has a large amount of debris in it, youve got a problem. The transmission will have to be removed and rebuilt. Always install a new torque converter when the transmission is rebuilt. Never try to save money by reusing a torque converter that is full of debris from a failed transmission. This 700R4 converter also has a clutch in it that could be bad. Look to see if the throttle valve cable (passing gear cable) is connected to the carburetor or throttle body in the case of fuel injection. The cable must be hooked up and adjusted correctly at all times, because this controls the pressure. When you step on the gas pedal the throttle valve cable turns the transmission pressure up. This is how to make the adjustment on the cable. With the throttle wide open, the cable must be fully pulled out at the exact same time. The adjustment is made at the bracket. You must push a button in or pull a button out to move the cable housing forward or rearward. Moving the cable housing to the rear raises the pressure. Be careful, if you adjust the pressure too low you could burn the clutches. When you have your 700R4 transmission rebuilt its always better to get your original transmission back. Because the 700R4 comes in everything from the S-10 pickup to the much larger Suburban. If you get the wrong 700R4 in your car or truck, the transmission wont work correctly or last vary long. The calibrations are different for each type car or truck. Never install a V-6 transmission with fewer clutches on a V-8 motor. If you have a 1982-83-84 car or truck never drive it with the wires on the side of the transmission unplugged. This will overheat the transmission on a long trip. On a 1985 or later it is O K to have the wires unplugged, because of a design change made in late 1984. The only part of this transmission that is electronic is the torque converter lockup. You will still have all four speeds with the wires unplugged. Place the transmission in drive position, when towing a trailer, not overdrive position (on a stock 700R4). A stock transmission will only tow a light trailer and last. The 700R4 didnt come in a one ton truck, because it isnt strong enough for a one ton in stock form. If you need a one ton get one. Dont tow a trailer that is too heavy for your car or truck. There is no need to replace a 700R4 with a 350 transmission, because the 350 transmission isnt any stronger and you will only save about $100.00 to $150.00 on the swap. Also your gas mileage will drop. The money saved will be eaten up in higher gas cost in no time. You can get up to 40% better gas mileage with an overdrive. There is no need for a shift kit in this unit, because you can get better results by installing a larger Corvette servo or even a
http://www.transmissioncenter.net/700r4.htm (1 of 17) [4/11/2004 12:30:04 AM]
high performance servo. We charge $105.00 parts & labor for this H. P. servo. You can also install extra 3-4 clutches and a larger pressure valve at a small charge when rebuilding the unit. Also there are oversize overdrive servos on the market. If you have a problem with the front seal, installing a new seal is a waste of time and money, it will only leak or blow off again. You must install a new seal, torque converter and rebuild the pump all at the same time to correct this front seal leak. This should cost about $360.00 plus tax. The 700R4 transmission will not last in a 4-wheel drive truck that has oversize tires, unless both rear end ratios are changed to allow for the larger tire size. You should be turning at least 2,000 RPM's at 70 miles per hour. If your transmission doesnt shift out of first gear or shifts hard at too high a R.P.M. this doesnt always mean you have a problem. This could be a stuck throttle valve caused by a small piece of trash. This sometimes happens after a rebuild. Sometimes the throttle valve can be unstuck without removing the valve body. Get up to about 20 to 30 M.P.H. and hit the gas pedal on and off hard with your foot. This might do the job. If that doesnt work remove the throttle valve cable end from the throttle, with the motor at idle in park, pull the cable in and out very fast, this might work, if not the valve body must be removed by a transmission shop to be unstuck. This could cost $50.00 to $100.00. Change your fluid and filter about every 20,000 miles. This is a preventive measure, not a fix for a problem. As a general rule the better the warranty, the higher the price. Most shops have a local warranty, meaning they do their own warranty work. You will pay alot more for a national warranty. We charge $100.00 extra for a 12 month 12,000 mile warranty on a 700R4 transmission. If your transmission shifts at too low a R.P.M. at wide open throttle this can be raised by installing lighter governor springs. As a general rule the 1-2 shift should happen at 40 to 45 M.P.H. when the throttle is to the floor. The governor is a speed sensor; if it sticks the transmission wont shift or takes off in 2nd gear. If this happens in an older transmission, it is most likely caused by debris in the fluid from a part failure. If this happens in a newly rebuilt transmission this could be caused from old debris coming from the fluid cooler. If your transmission doesnt shift out of first gear look and see if the governor gear is stripped. If you have a 1982, 1983 or early 1984 transmission (27 spline input shaft) it can be replaced by a 1988 up transmission for a better feel. The wires dont have to be hooked up on a 1985 up transmission. This works well on the early S-10 Blazer, because when they get old it will rattle when the torque converter locks up. On 1982, 1983 and early 1984 transmissions the transmission will burn up if the torque converter doesn't lock-up. If you have a sudden large loss of fluid on a 700R4, look to see if the governor cap has come off. This can happen when someone left the safety clip off of the governor cap. The case has a hole for the clip but they dont come with a clip from the factory. Use a governor clip from a 350 transmission. Never use a transmission additive that says it will stop leaks. This will turn your seals to mush over a period of time. If your 700R4 transmission has high mileage, dont try to do a patch job, if you develop a problem have it rebuilt. Over 100,000 miles is high mileage. If you dont have a lot of experience installing transmissions, dont buy the transmission from a re-builder and install it yourself. If a shop rebuilds and installs your transmission, they will only charge you one installation fee, regardless of how many times they have to take it back out. If you do the job, its your problem if the transmission is defective. Some problems that can be mistaken as a transmission problem are motor mounts, fuel filter, spark plug wires, catalytic converter, fan clutch, U-joints and others. Never rebuild your transmission without an expert diagnosis first. When its done, you may still have the same problem.
We can build you a high performance 700R4 transmission (700 Raptor) with all of the updates. This transmission comes with a high performance intermediate servo that has far more holding power than a Corvette servo. It will give a firmer 1-2 and 2-3 shift. It also has a high performance overdrive servo with 50% more holding power than the stock overdrive servo. This servo gives a firmer 3-4 shift. This 700r4 has 7 Blue Plate Special clutches in the 3-4 clutch drum. One extra clutch is added to reverse. Our 700R4 come with the Mega Valve for higher pressure and firmer shifts and a oversize low / reverse boost valve. All of our high performance 700R4 transmissions come with a 13 vane high performance pump and "The Beast" reaction shell. Also included in the price is a heavy-duty stall converter with furnace brazed fins for added strength. This torque converter can
be ordered with stall speeds of 1800, 2000, 2300, 2600 and 2800 RPM. Some of the other features are a 30 spline input shaft, special Transgo separator plate if needed, extra wide sun gear bushing, special governor springs, Raybestos Pro Series Kevlar 2 / 4 band, heavy-duty 29 element sprag and roller clutch. Also included in this package deal is a throttle valve cable, dipstick and tube and an automatic converter lock-up switch. Overall this is the best 700R4 on the market at the best price. I have one in my one ton Suburban with 463 cubic inches and 455 foot pounds of torque. I pull a 5500 pound trailer in overdrive all the time. This 700R4 transmission can be shipped to you anywhere for the sum of $1695.00. This price includes the core charge. You dont need a trade-in. Update your ride to the best 700R4 overdrive on the market. The freight charge is $110.00 to $150.00 in most cases. See www.transmissioncenter.net/highperflist.htm for free freight deals, free t-shirts offers, free cooler offers and free deep pan offers.
Testimonials
Toll Free 1-888-8771008
Performance Automotive and Transmission Center

SUBJECT: Proper installation of the throttle valve cable on after-market carburetors or fuel injections. This information applies to all 700R4, 4L60 and 200-4R transmissions. Throttle valve cable adjustment instructions, numbers 4, 5 and 6. #1. The button that the cable hooks to at the carburetor or throttle body must have a 1 and 3/32-inch radius from the center of the throttle shaft to the center of the button the cable hooks to. #2. Looking at the throttle shaft lever from the left side at idle position, 33% of the throttle lever total travel must be to the rear of the throttle shaft centerline. And at wide-open throttle, 67% to the front of the throttle shaft centerline. This will be about inch to the rear and 1 inch to the front of the throttle shaft centerline. #3. The throttle valve cable must be hooked up in this manner so the pressure will rise faster off idle and slow down at heavy throttle. If the pressure cable is pulled in a more even manner the pressure will be too low at light throttle. Failure to hook-up the throttle cable in this way will burn the three-four clutch pack up fast. #4. The throttle valve cable controls transmission pressure. Adjusting this cable is the most important step when installing a 700R4, 4L60 or 200-4R transmission. #5. The final step is to adjust the throttle valve cable. The cable must be adjusted so it is pulled fully out at wide-open throttle. To make sure disconnect the cable, hold the throttle wide open with your left hand, pull the cable fully out with your right hand and see if the cable end lines up with the button on the throttle lever. The cable should also be pulled out 3/8 to 1/2 of an inch at idle. #6. Do not attempt to adjust the shift timing with the throttle valve cable. The shift timing is controlled by the governor springs. For higher shift points at wide-open throttle, install lighter springs. For lower shift points at wide-open throttle, install stronger springs.
#7. You can get a cable button off of a junk GM vehicle and weld it to your throttle valve lever. We sell a cable correction kit for Holley and Edelbrock carburetors. #8. Sometimes on a newly rebuilt 700R4 or 200-4R transmission, it may not make the 3-4 shift when first installed. A stuck valve, trash in the fluid or an air pocket, usually causes this. Raise the rear wheels off the ground, place the transmission in overdrive position. Run the speedometer as high as 100 miles per hour, pop the throttle on and off and see if you can force a 34 shift. Once it makes the first 3-4 shift, work the shift lever back and forth between drive and overdrive until the 3-4 shift works correctly. #9. If you have a Holley or Edelbrock carburetor, you must install an adapter on the carburetor linkage for the transmission to work correctly.
Published in Transmission Digest, May 2001

Diagnosing a noise can be a real challenge, to say the least. One reason is that what creates a noise does not always look damaged. Many types of noise are transmission related. Sometimes it's nothing more than a normal noise that sounds louder because of bad mounts or because part of the transmission is touching the frame or underbody of the car.
Then there are actual components like pumps, planets, final drives or even something like a valve buzz that can cause you to want to tear your hair out. The trick is to find a way to make the noise change, or stop, and then examine what this change did to affect the noise. There are several rules that will help isolate the component that is causing the problem. First of all, a component cannot generate a noise if it is not moving. This sounds easy enough but is often overlooked. Next, if the noise is pressure related, it will change when the pressure changes. The following is a list of components that commonly make noise, and simple methods of diagnosing them:
Pumps...
Pump noises are simple. They change when pressure changes. Take, for example, a 4T60-E that has a noise whether it is in or out of gear. Because of this the torque converter can be ruled out. Putting the transmission in gear stops the entire gear train from turning. This rules out the entire gear train. At this point, the only suspect is the pump (or some other hydraulic component such as the pressure-regulator valve). The test here is to vary line pressure by changing the vacuum at the modulator. If the noise varies with a change in pressure, its time to look at the pump (including the pump drive shaft). If this were an AXOD, pulling the TV cable would do the trick. With a 4L60-E, disconnecting the solenoid wire harness will work. A restricted filter can also cause pump noises. The best way to check this is with a pressure gauge. If the noise is caused by a clogged filter, the needle will vibrate when the demand for pressure increases.
Torque Converters...
Torque converter noises are easy to isolate. Since the entire converter (pump, turbine and stator) turns while the transmission is in park and neutral, a converter noise will go away in those ranges. When the transmission is in gear and the drive wheels are stationary, the turbine in the torque converter doesn't spin, because the turbine shaft is stationary. This is when the bearing between the turbine and main housing of the converter is working. If the noise is there only in gear with the drive wheels stationary and goes away in neutral, suspect the torque converter. There is an exception with the AOD transmission. The direct drum of an AOD is always turning while the engine is running. For this reason, a torque converter noise can be easily confused with the noise made by one of the direct drum bearings. Tip: A torque converter noise will get quieter as the drive wheels begin rolling slowly from a stop.
Planetary and bearings...

These make the most difficult noises to diagnose. This is where it is important to remember the first rule: A component cannot make a noise if it is not moving. The trick here is to remember that when two components are rotating in the same direction at the same speed, they are, in effect, not moving relative to each other. For example, a 4T60-E has a noise in neutral while stationary. The noise goes away when the transmission is in gear. Right away, you can rule out the torque converter. Since the pump is producing the same pressure in neutral as it is in gear, you can also rule it out. The final drive can't be the problem, because a final drive makes noise only when the vehicle is moving. Here is where it gets tricky. Remember, a component cannot make a noise if it is not moving. Also, two components that are rotating at the same speed in the same direction are considered not moving relative to each other. Since third gear has a 1:1 ratio, The planetary are not rotating relative to each other while the transmission is in third gear. This means that if the noise is caused by either planet, it will go away when the transmission shifts to third gear. Unfortunately, although the noise is quieter in third gear, it is still there. Further diagnosis requires an intimate knowledge of the unit being tested. Now, the noise did not go away in third gear, but it did change in pitch as the unit shifted to the next gear. If the noise is not coming from a planet and changes pitch as the transmission shifts, it must be from a component that is connected to the turbine shaft. This leaves the two sprockets and their related bearings; all other components have been eliminated.
Final drives...
These noises are perhaps the easiest of all to diagnose. The noise will increase in pitch as vehicle speed increases. The important thing to remember here is that the noise will not change with engine speed or when the transmission shifts, only with vehicle speed. However, its easy to mistake the noise from a bad power train mount for a final drive noise. Here again, check the mounts carefully first. As with other diagnoses, finding the cause of a noise is a process of elimination. Knowing which component is not causing the malfunction is as important as knowing which component is causing the malfunction. Rule out as many sources as possible by using clear testing methods, and see which components are left.
2WD - 700R4
Speedometer Calibration Variables such as the vehicle's axle ratio and tire diameter affect the accuracy of the speedometer. The following speedometer drive A spring clip retains the speedometer drive gears and driven gears are available for the 700R4 gear on the transmission output shaft. / 4L60 transmissions. Most cars and trucks with low rear end ratios will take a 15 tooth drive gear. One driven gear housing for 34 - 39 tooth driven gears and another housing for 40 - 45 tooth driven gears.
Twelve speedometer driven gears are available for the 700R4 / 4L60 transmissions to calibrate the speedometer with various axle ratios and tire diameters. The number on the driven gear housing must match the number of teeth on the driven gear. Unless driven gears with more than 45 teeth and / or drive gears with
fewer than 15 teeth become available, it will be impossible without using a ratio adapter to have an accurate speedometer with rear end gear ratios lower (higher numerically) than 4.10:1, unless 27 inch or larger tires are installed
With 15 Tooth Drive Gear

Axle Ratio 4.56 4.56 4.10 4.10 4.10 4.10 4.10 4.10 4.10 4.10 3.73 3.73 3.73 3.73 3.73 3.73 3.73 Axle Ratio 3.73 3.73 3.42 3.42 3.42 3.42 Axle Ratio 3.23 3.23 3.23 3.23 Tire Height 33 35 26 27 28 29 30 31 33 35 26 27 27 1/2 28 29 30 31 Driven Gear Teeth 42 39 45 will work, but will read about 3 MPH fast at
50 MPH.
45 44 43 41 40 38 35 43 42 41 40 39 38 36 Driven Gear Teeth 45 44 45 44 43 42 Driven Gear Teeth 45 44 43 42

Tire Height 28 29 26 26 1/2 27 28 Tire Height 26 26 1/2 27 28
700R4 / 4L60 Transmission Assembly Specifications
Transmission Dimensions 700R4
A 30-3/4"
B 23-3/8"
C 22-1/2"
D 3-3/4"
E 20"
These specs are for the best one GM builds. Type: Automatic four-speed overdrive with torque converter clutch. Gear Ratios: 1st-3.06, 2nd-1.63, 3rd-1.00, 4th0.70, Reverse-2.29 Converter Diameter: 298mm (11.7 inches) Converter Stall Torque Ratio: 1.91 Maximum Engine Speed: 6250 RPM Maximum Towing Capacity: 7000 lbs. Maximum Gross Weight: 8600 lbs. Fluid Capacity: 11 qts. approx. (dry) (Refer to service manual for complete instructions on fluid fill capacity.) Fluid Type: Dextron III Weight (with converter): 164 lbs. (dry), 184 lbs. (wet) Shift Quadrant: P, R, N, D, 3, 2, 1
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This is the same tip sheet we've sold for years for $9.95.
2WD Transmission Swap Information

Swap a 350 transmission with a six inch tail to a 700R4 transmission:
#1. The drive shaft will need to be cut three inches. #2. The cross member will need to be moved two or three inches. #3. The passing gear cable bracket on the motor can be reused. #4. The passing gear cable connection on the carburetor can be reused, if you have the original carburetor. #5. If you have a Holley or Edelbrock carburetor you need a carburetor adapter. Our #29. 700R4, adapter for a Holley or Edelbrock carburetors to install the throttle valve cable correctly. Usually this part will correct a hard light throttle 1-2 shift. With this kit getting the correct
geometry is easy. If you have a 700R4 transmission and one of these two carburetors you need this part.
#6. You will need a new 700R4 throttle valve cable and dip stick. #7. The shift linkage can be reused. D will be OD, 2 will be D and 2nd and 1st will be to the left and right of the 1. #8. If you have a 350 transmission now with a nine inch tail the drive shaft will not need to be cut. #9. The drive shaft yoke is the same on both transmissions. #10. The 350 vacuum line will need to be removed. The 700R4 transmission doesn't need vacuum. #11. The cooling line positions stay the same. The auxiliary cooler always goes in the top return line on a 700R4 transmission. #12. If you want the torque converter to lock-up you must in install a lock-up kit in the transmission pan. On 1982, 1983 and early 1984's with a 27 spline input shaft you must install a lock-up kit or the transmission may burn up. Our part #12.
#13. This is an adapter plate to install the 700R4 transmission on an Olds, Buick or Pontiac motor. Our #15.
Swap a 400 transmission with a four inch tail to a 700R4 transmission:

#1. The drive shaft will need to be cut and a smaller yoke installed. #2. The cross member can be used in the same location, if you use a special 700R4 tail housing. Our #49. 700R4 tail housing with transmission mount (7 3/8 inches long). This will move the mount to the rear 5 1/2 inches. This moves the rear transmission mount to the same position as a 400 (short-style) transmission. This extension housing can eliminate transmission cross member modifications when replacing a 400 transmission with a 700R4 assembly. These are almost impossible to find.
#3. Will need a throttle valve cable bracket on the motor.
Our #8X. Universal Throttle Valve Cable Bracket.
#4. You will need a way to connect the throttle valve cable to the carburetor. If you have a Holley or Edelbrock carburetor use #29 above. #5. You will need a new 700R4 throttle valve cable and dip stick. #6. The shift linkage can be reused. D will be OD, 2 will be D and 2nd and 1st will be to the left and right of the 1. #7. The 400 vacuum line will need to be removed. The 700R4 transmission doesn't need vacuum. #8. The cooling line positions stay the same. The auxiliary cooler always goes in the top return line on a 700R4 transmission. #9. This is an adapter plate to install the 700R4 transmission on an Olds, Buick or Pontiac motor. Our #15. #10. If you want the torque converter to lock-up you must in install a lock-up kit in the transmission pan. On 1982, 1983 and early 1984's with a 27 spline input shaft you must install a lock-up kit or the transmission may burn up. Our part #12.
Swap a 200-4R transmission to a 700R4 transmission:

#1. The drive shaft will need to be cut three inches. #2. The cross member can be used in the same location, if you use a special 700R4 tail housing. See #49 above. #3. The throttle valve cable and motor bracket can be reused. #4. The throttle valve cable connection on the carburetor can be reused, if you have the original carburetor. #5. If you have a Holley or Edelbrock carburetor you need a carburetor adapter. See #29 above. #6. You will need a new dip stick. #7. The shift linkage is the same on both transmissions. #8. The drive shaft yoke is the same on both transmissions. #9. The cooling line positions on the transmission will need to be swapped, because the return line
on a 200-4R is on the bottom and the 700R4 is on the top. The auxiliary cooler always goes in the top return line on a 700R4 transmission. #10. If you want the torque converter to lock-up you must in install a lock-up kit in the transmission pan. On 1982, 1983 and early 1984's with a 27 spline input shaft you must install a lock-up kit or the transmission may burn up. Our part #12.
#11. This is an adapter plate to install the 700R4 transmission on an Olds, Buick or Pontiac motor. Our #15.
#56. Adapter to install a Chevy 700R4 transmission on a Ford Small Block motor. Comes with the flywheel, adapter plate, flywheel adapter, dust cover and bolts. We're an Advance Adapters Dealer. See the AOD page for more details.
Electronic Ratio Adapter (ERA)

Now You Have the Solution to Your Speedometer Problems..... For 700R4's with electronic speedometers.
#69. Any change in a vehicle's tire size or rear axle ratio will cause the speedometer reading to be inaccurate. The Electronic Ratio Adapter (ERA) is designed to correct this problem. With the ERA, you simply hook up four wires, set the DIP switches according to the calibration table included with your order, and you are ready to go. What does the Electronic Ratio Adapter do?
The automotive industry has a great variety of part sizes, types, shapes and descriptions, but regardless of make, model or year, a few things are standard. One of those standards has been the number of revolutions a speedometer cable will make for each mile travelled. Nowadays, electronic pulses have replaced the rotating cable, but the same principle applies. The Pulse Ratio (the number of pulses per mile travelled) remains the same, regardless of speed, since the same distance is travelled and the same number of pulses have occurred each mile no matter what the speed was during that mile. However, this Pulse Ratio can be made to vary from the true when modifications are made which change the number of electronic pulses per mile on a particular vehicle. This is most commonly caused by changing the tire size (increasing the outside diameter of the tires will cause the tire to travel further before making a complete revolution), but other modifications could have the same result. When the Pulse Ratio is thrown off, the speedometer/odometer will be inaccurate and corrections must be made. This relative difference between true speed and the speed indicated on the speedometer is called the Variance Ratio, and it is corrected using the Electronic Ratio Adapter.
GM Ratio Adapter
#54RA. This GM ratio adapter will slow your speedometer cable down 26.7%. Made for low rear end ratios with short tires.
Important 700R4 Transmission Information

Thin red, blue or brown clutches and thin steels in the 700R4 3-4 clutch pack will not hold up in a performance / heavy duty 700R4 transmission. The reason being the thin clutches burn up and the thin steel plates warp up from the extreme heat. The thin steel plates will not dissipate the heat fast enough. The problem is a combination of thin and narrow design. Thin red clutches work well in all transmissions, but not in the 700R4 transmission 3-4 clutch pack. For this reason we only use the more expensive Raybestos Blue Plate Special full thickness clutches and steels in our level 3 and 4, 700 Raptor transmission 3-4 clutch packs. Wide bands will not work in a performance / heavy duty 700R4 transmission unless used with a new reverse drum because they burn on the two outer edges. For this reason we only use Raybestos Pro Series black Kevlar bands on our level 2, 3 and 4, 700 Raptor transmissions. Some have machined the drum in an effort to give the wide band a flat surface to ride on. This only weakens the drum and makes it cup worse the next time.
We use OEM (new) 5 pinion 700R4 rear planet gears that cost us five times as much as the weak off brand 5 pinion rear planet gears. What's the reason we do this, you say. The off brand planet gears are made of weak steel and snap like twigs. These gears are made of powdered metal, which GM claims allows for a higher overall strength. After market 5 pinion planet gears are not as strong as OEM 4 pinion planet gears. We use two new OEM 5 pinion planet gears in our top of the line level 4, 700 Mega Raptor transmissions. If you didn't pay over $250.00 for your 5 pinion rear planet gear it's not the real OEM 5 pinion planet gear.
Conclusion: Don't buy a 700R4 / 4L60E transmission with any of the above parts that have
been proven not to work over time. If the above parts wont work for us how could they possibly work for you? The above parts may work in light duty use with a stock motor. You want the good parts that have been proven to last. We are a Torque Drive distributor, these are the patented 700R4 hardened input shafts, input drums and reaction shells. We install the Torque Drive package in all of our level 4, 700 Mega Raptor transmissions and as an upgrade for $187.00 in our levels 1, 2 and 3, 700 Raptor transmissions. If you are a transmission builder you can buy from us at a discounted price, the more you buy the better the price. You be the judge. We sell the total package, not something that will cost more in the long run or cost more after you buy everything you need one part at a time. We have been building performance / heavy duty 700R4 transmissions for 13 years and have tried and tested every performance 700R4 part and combination of parts that there ever was. We have shipped these transmissions all over the world. We know what works and what doesn't. I've been in the transmission business sense 1958 and the people in this company have a combined transmission experience of 160 years. Some have made things appear hard to do, such as cooling lines and throttle valve cable adjustments in an effort to sell you their expensive package to do these things. Wake up! It's even been reported to us that several 700R4 performance transmission companies are making counterfeit Torque Drive input drums, billet 40% oversize overdrive servos and other parts. These 700R4 counterfeit parts are inferior to the real patented parts and there are several law suits pending at this time. In an effort to make the price appear low such things as torque converters, core charges, freight fees, throttle valve cable, dip stick and tube, coolers, deep pans, T-shirts and others are usually an extra charge. Ask yourself this question. Why pay extra for everything when the transmission doesn't even have the correct combination of parts that work together in the first place? We only use a Corvette intermediate servo in our stock 700R4 transmissions. The performance intermediate servo we use in all of our level 2, 3 and 4, 700 Raptor transmissions cost us 6 times as much as a Corvette servo. We use a 50% oversize overdrive servo in all of our level 2, 3 and 4, 700 Raptor transmissions that cost 2 times as much as a 30% oversize overdrive servo. Get your moneys worth, you want the good parts. When comparing transmission prices, know what you're actually getting. There's even a new performance 700R4 transmission company out there that has a chart comparing the price of our level 4 transmission to their transmission that might be equal to our level 1 or 2 transmission on a good day. Oh, and they forgot to add the core charge to their price on the chart. This is the old apples and oranges trick. This same company claims to have been building automatic
transmission for 75 years when automatic transmissions where only invented a little over 60 years ago. It's right there on their website, check it out. This must be some kind of a type-o, because it says something else on the other pages. They claim to scare the competition, it's you the buyer that should be scared about these low ball tactics without the good parts. Another California performance 700R4 transmission company is in bankrupt court at this time for making and selling counterfeit parts.
700R4 Price Chart

700R4 Transmissions Torque Converter Throttle Valve Cable Dip Stick and Tube Free Shirt Core Charge Servos Pressure Valve Band Clutches Free Cooler or Deep Stock Pan Free Freight Stall Speeds Speedometer Gears Torque Drive Package, Recommended for over 450 Torque. Torque Master Kit 5 Pinion Planet Gears Oversize Lo/Rev Boost Valve 13 Vane Pump Beast Reaction Shell #38 Pump Slide Spring #41 Servo Valve 29 Element Forward Sprag Performance 1-2 Accumulator Spring #19B Extra Wide Sun Gear Bushing 4th Gear Lock-Up Only Comments 2WD Price 4WD Price Quantity Discount Level 1 - "Stock Plus" Mega Valve and Corvette Servo Stock No No No Included Corvette .500" Stock Borg Warner Brown No No 1600, 1800, 2000 Extra No No No No No No No No No No No Level 2 - 700 Raptor Junior #1 No No No Included Oversize 35% & 50% .500" Raybestos Kevlar Borg Warner Brown Choice of One Up to $110.00 1700, 2000, 2500 Extra Add $187.00 No No Yes No No No No No No No Level 4 - 700 Mega Raptor Level 3 - 700 Raptor #2 No - You Pick Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Included Included Oversize 35% & 50% Oversize 35% & 50% .500" .500" Raybestos Kevlar Raybestos Kevlar 3 - 4 Clutch Raybestos Blue 3 - 4 Clutch Raybestos Blue Plate Plate Choice of One Up to $110.00 1200, 1400, 1600, 1800, 2000, 2300, 2600, 2800 Extra Add $187.00 No No Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Choice of One Up to $110.00 You Pick Extra Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Torque Drive Shell Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes
Upgrades
Freight Deal Notes
Stock Wiring Yes Yes Yes Better than stock with the Tow up to 4000 pounds in Tow up to 6000 pounds in Best of Everything Mega Valve and Corvette overdrive. overdrive. servo. $980.00 $1384.00 $1695.00 $2169.00, plus converter $1030.00 $1434.00 $1745.00 $2219.00, plus converter Buy two level 3 or 4 transmissions and converters at the same time and receive $50.00 off on each. Five Pinion Planet Gears, Torque Drive Package, Torque Master Package, Cast Aluminum Pans, Deep Chrome Pan, Powder Coating, 4WD Case, Tail Housing with Mount, Poly Mount, Speedometer Gears, MegaRaptor, Bionic MegaRaptor, #2X or #5X Converter, Drain Plug, Beast Reaction Shell, LS1 type Bolt Pattern Bell housing, Wide Band, Full manual shift valve body add $207.00, Hardened Output Shaft, Pinless Accumulator Pistons. You can add or subtract from any level transmission. Air Freight after $110.00 discount on performance / heavy duty transmission and torque converter. Anchorage Alaska $240.00, Fairbanks Alaska $315.00, Honolulu Hawaii $165.00 to $240.00, Germany to large Airport - $65.00 to $240.00, Guam Japan to Airport $250.00. The price doesn't include C4 Corvette tail housings. The tail housing will be left off if you are going to use your old speedometer parts. Speedometer parts are extra.
Transmission ratings are for non-supercharged systems using pump gasoline. Superchargers, Nitrous, 4WD, Oversize Tires and Weight will lower these ratings. Transmission Horse Power Rating Torque Rating Notes 700 Mega Raptor 700 700 Best of Everything Add torque converter and Torque 700 Raptor 600 450 / 600 with Torque Drive package Drive upgrades if needed. Add torque converter and Torque 700 Raptor Junior 500 400 / 500 with Torque Drive package Drive upgrades if needed. Add torque converter upgrade if Stock +, 700R4 350 300 needed.
PATC - Speed Shop, Click Here Testimonials Add to Favorites
Performance Automotive and Transmission Center Order Now Toll Free Transmission Order Line 1-888-8771008 Transmission Parts Order Line 1-888-2012066 Back to Transmission Price List, Click Here
@ TH700-R4 - EZ Snap Transmission Tool
SNAP RING INSTALLATION TOOL TH 700-R4

Item Code = e0ez
Are you TIRED of fumbling for 20 MINUTES with snap-ring pliers trying to install the low/reverse snap ring in THM 700-R4 transmissions??? If so, then you NEED the EZ-Snap 700!!! Snap-ring pliers are NOT needed! Just place snap ring on EZ Snap 700, place tool and return springs in case, compress EZ-Snap 700, and in LESS than 30 SECONDS you are DONE!!! What could be simpler??? The EZ-Snap 700 is very similar in looks and operation to the EZ-Snap 350.
http://mmerlinn.tripod.com/pics/e0ez/e0ezlist.htm (1 of 10) [4/11/2004 12:39:48 AM]
Contact us c015/010-w069-r025+1h+2s
Transmission Identification
The links below provide info for a 700/4L60 and a location of a reliable year of manufacture of the tranz.
700R4/ 4L60 I D info! Trans case measurements 700R4 problem areas Valvebody bolt warning 700R4 electronic to cable speedo info. Sumner's 700/4L60 Tech Info page Lockup wiring some tips Driveshaft warning Filter warning Pump stuff
Send your questions to Me.
To: Crosley's Page
http://www.highperformancecars.com/crosley/4l80e.htm [4/11/2004 11:58:17 PM]
ID a 700r4 transmission
This is basic information for the DIY type person.

First, let me make sure you understand that the 700/4L60 transmissions are
METRIC units!
The threads and threaded holes are all metric in this transmission. Pan bolts are 8mm x 1.25 Shift linkage lever & Converter to flywheel are 10mm x 1.5 Valve body, TV cable & speedo are 6mm x 1.0 Trans mount & tail housing holes are 10mm x 1.5 American (US) threads are "not close" like some people think. Use the correct nuts & bolts! When you buy a tranz from a rebuilder or wrecking yard ask for all the needed bolts.
Here are some pics of a 700r4/4L60 transmission to help you folks identify this trans when out looking for a unit to buy.
http://www.highperformancecars.com/crosley/700id.htm (1 of 6) [4/12/2004 12:00:16 AM]
This is the passenger side of the trans main case. Notice the casting line that is shaped like a "rainbow". It flows through the upper cooling line fitting. This is a good indication that you have a 700/4L60 trans that is new enough to have the good parts in it.
Here is a 1988 700 case. Notice the pressure taps with plugs in them. These plugs help
ID the trans as earlier than 1989. I have been "told" that the removal of these pressure taps was a "running" change which means that some 1989 cases may have the taps.
Notice the "lack" of pressure taps on this case. This is a 1989 case.
Please notice the flat area near the rear of the pan rail.
This close up view shows the small flat pad area on the right rear of the pan rail area. Stamped in this area is a row of numbers and letters. The "first" number is a very reliable number of the year of manufacture. 1982 was the first year of a 700, but the number "9" was used for some reason. After that GM used matching numbers for the year of manufacture. A "3" would be a 1983 unit , etc. There are more numbers and letters stamped into this area after the first number that I will not explain here since it is not necessary to find the year of the trans.
Now it gets a little difficult. In 1989 GM removed the pressure taps from the passenger side of the trans. So a "0" for the first number on the pad area with no pressure taps on the pass side indicates a 1990 unit, not a 1980 unit. If the 700 you are looking at has a pad area that has been ground smooth, it may be from the unit being a factory rebuilt unit at one time. A tag is usually attatched to the trans case by the authorized rebuilder. This tag may or may not contain correct year info. Sometimes I have seen a year of rebuild ( ie:1989) but the case is an earlier year. This is something you find out when the pan is removed!
This picture shows a 1999 4l60E tranny. Notice that the case is 3 pieces. The bell housing unbolts too! About 2 inches behind the ROUND 2 - 4 servo is the connector for the PCM.
The links below provide additional info on the 700/4L60 trans.
700R4 problem areas Trans case measurements Valvebody bolt warning 700R4 electronic to cable speedo info.
Sumner's 700/4L60 Tech Info page Lockup wiring some tips Driveshaft warning Filter warning Pump stuff
Send your questions to Tony.
Tranz page
Crosley's Home Page
Exterior measuremnets of 4L80E & 700/4L60 trans
4L80E exterior specs
Here are the various measurements of a 700R4.
http://www.highperformancecars.com/crosley/transize.htm (1 of 3) [4/12/2004 12:00:36 AM]
700R4/ 4L60 I D info! Trans case measurements 700R4 problem areas Valvebody bolt warning 700R4 electronic to cable speedo info. Sumner's 700/4L60 Tech Info page
Lockup wiring some tips Filter warning Drive shaft warning
Main tranny page Crosley's home page
700r4/4L60 problems
700r4/4L60 problem areas
This is a drive shell from a 700r4. Notice that the right unit is now two pieces! The area to watch is around the splines, check for cracks!
http://www.highperformancecars.com/crosley/drvshell.htm (1 of 3) [4/12/2004 12:00:53 AM]
700r4/4L60 problems
Here is the input drum of a 700R4. Lots of power will twist the aluminum drum splines or break this drum in the spline area around the steel input shaft. The notches that you see on the out side of this drum are not the ones that break. The spline area at the right end of this broken drum often split,twist or the drum breaks there.
700r4/4L60 problems
Sumner's 700/4L60 Tech Info page Lockup wiring filter warning
Email me! OR
Tranz page
http://www.highperformancecars.com/crosley/shrtbolt.htm
Pay Attention here!

This is a picture of the aux valve body at the rear area of the transmission with the pan removed from the case. The gold bolt(next to the tube)in the picture is shorter than the other long bolts in the valve body of the 700/4L60 transmission. Early trannys have a bolt with yellow paint on the head that wears off! Check the bolt length! Installing a regular long valve body bolt here will usually strip the threads out of the case.
http://www.highperformancecars.com/crosley/shrtbolt.htm (1 of 3) [4/12/2004 12:01:02 AM]
700R4/ 4L60 I D info! Trans case measurements 700R4 problem areas Valvebody bolt warning 700R4 electronic to cable speedo info. Sumner's 700/4L60 Tech Info page Lockup wiring some tips filter warning
E-mail Transmission home page
700R4 speedo info.
Speedo and output shaft Info
Early T-700's came with regular cable driven speedo's. Some where in the 80's GM Started changing to an electronic speedo, they did not change all applications at the same time. Depending on the vehicle that your 700/4L60 came from, it could have electronic or cable speedo. This will show you how to convert it back to a cable driven speedo if that is needed.
Here is a "signal generator" disc on an output shaft of a 700R4. This is used for an electronic speedo. The sleeve behind it is for sealing up the drive shaft yoke. Some yokes have breather holes in the end near the u-joint. You can remove this disc(pull it off), under it will most likely be 2 holes. Install a standard retaining clip and plastic speedo drive gear for a 700R4 in the "front hole", unless you are working on a Corvette trans. The rear hole seen slightly covered by the disc and is used with corvette tail housings. Installing a standard speedo bullet and gear into the tail housing will complete the conversion from electronic speedo to cable speedo.
http://www.highperformancecars.com/crosley/700spd.htm (1 of 5) [4/12/2004 12:01:27 AM]
700R4 speedo info.
Here is a picture of the needed parts to refit an electronic speedo to a cable type. The clip fits into the mentioned hole on the output shaft and holds the drive gear on. The speedo "bullet and gear" replace the electronic pick-up. The speedo bullet has numbers on it to tell you what tooth count of gears it is set to handle. The wrong tooth count and the gears will tear themselves up or not work at all!
Here are a few GM part numbers for the "driven" speedo gears. 9774413 34 Lt Green 9780628 35 Orange 1359270 36 White 1359271 37 Red 1359272 38 Blue 1359273 39 Brown 1362048 40 Black 1362195 41 Yellow 1362049 42 Green 1362196 43 Purple 9780470 44 Dk Gray 9775187 45 Lt Blue
700R4 speedo info.
Here is a signal pick-up coil for the electronic speedo that you are converting.
Here is a picture of an early gear driven electronic speedo bullet for the 700R4. To replace this, all you need are the speedo bullet and gears to convert to cable.
700R4 speedo info.
This picture shows the different speed-O housings. On the left is a T-400, middle is T700/4L60, last is an early BOP T-350. BOP means Buick,Olds ,Pontiac. Notice the O-ring "groove" location on the BOP and 700 units. The T-350 BOP housing may leak with the O-ring out further when used in a 700/4L60 unit. The T-400 is smaller at 1.935 in diameter. The 700/4L60 unit is 2.080 in diameter
700R4 problem areas Trans case measurements Valvebody bolt warning

700R4 speedo info.
700R4 electronic to cable speedo info.
Sumner's 700/4L60 Tech Info page Lockup wiring some tips Filter warning Pump stuff
Email Tony.
Tranz page
Crosley's Home Page
Tech Information Index
......................................................................................Return
to Sumner's Home Page
...................................................................
Tech Information
Index
700R4 Transmission Info Page 1 -- Electrical & Cable
hookup and other ......................................................................info on the 700R4
700R4 Transmission Info Page 2 -- Frequently ask questions

about the ......................................................................700R4
700R4 Transmission Info Page 3 -- Transmission Gear

Ratios Vs. Other ......................................................................GM Transmissions.
700R4 Transmission Info Page 4 -- Valve Body Pictures 700R4 Transmission Info Page 5 -- Reference Books and
Transmission Dimensions
Metal Working Projects -- Using my Harbor Freight 12" X

36" Lathe
..........................................................................and
Enco Gear Head
Mill/Drill
http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/techinfo.html (1 of 3) [4/12/2004 12:01:30 AM]
Paint & Bodywork Information -- Basically how I do paint

and bodywork and tips.
Sheet Metal Press Brake -- How to build a cheap, but good

metal brake.
Setting up and Spraying with the Harbor Freight HVLP Spray Gun The Small Block Chevy Should Have Built -- Over 413 Hp
and Great Torque 440.
SBC Cylinder Head Information -- Chamber sizes, flow, etc. One Wire Alternator---If you have a 1 wire alternator you might want to
read this.
How I chopped my GMC's Top -- From an article in Rod & Custom How To Setup Your Driveline -- Power Train Set-Up Guide
By Greg Frick of Inland Empire Driveline Service Originally published in StreetScene Magazine, December 1997 Reprinted with permission of StreetScene magazine
......................................... Return to Sumner's Home Page
Easy 4th gear lockup
700/4L60 lockup information

This does not apply to all 700/4L60 transmissions, only those with this wire setup. If you are not sure take the damn pan off and look. Use this information at "your own risk!".
I will attempt to show you how to convert your wires on a 700 to lockup in 4th only and a connection to attach a switch to lockup the converter in 3rd & 2nd too. This is basic information, if you cannot perform this swap without troubles then you need to sell your car and tools.
http://www.highperformancecars.com/crosley/lockup1.htm (1 of 4) [4/12/2004 12:02:24 AM]
Here is the trans with the pan off. This is a common 1988 setup. The wiring is similar through 1992, in 1993 the 4L60E was introduced.
Pay attention here.

In the lower mid left circle "A" is the pressure switch for 4th gear. In the middle is the thermal sensor "B" that you will be removing. Remove the connector and wire from the pressure switch "A". Cut the "A" wire off at the double connector at the thermal sensor "B". From this same connection there is a wire that runs over to the case connector that passes through the case. Cut this wire off too.
Notice that the pressure switch "A" is silver in color. This means it's a normally open type. If the switch you see is a dark color (dark grey almost black) it means that the switch is a normally "closed" type and will not work here. Using an OHM meter in the air check shown below where will tell you what you have; NO or NC switch.
The silver NO switch is a GM part # is 8642473
If you are afraid to remove the thermal sensor, leave it alone. It will just sit there and do nothing. Want to air check that Pressure switch?
Page two E-Mail Tranz page
Taking your trans in for an Over Haul?
Taking your trans in for an over haul?

Here is a short list for you.
1. Remove the mount. The trans guy does not need it. 2. Remove the TV cable to avoid damage to it. 3. Drain the fluid from the trans. Stand it up on end in a pan. 4. Do not transport the trans with the converter in it. You can damge the pump if the converter is not supported. 5. If you have some special brackets on the trans, remove them so they are not lost or damaged. 6. Leave the dip stick and filler tube at home. 7. Be honest when answering questions about your engine's power and car useage.
700R4 problem areas Trans case measurements Valvebody bolt warning 700R4 electronic to cable speedo info. Sumner's 700/4L60 Tech Info page Lockup wiring Driveshaft warning Filter warning Pump stuff
http://www.highperformancecars.com/crosley/tips.htm (1 of 2) [4/12/2004 12:02:25 AM]
Taking your trans in for an Over Haul?
Tranz page
Crosley's Home Page
http://www.highperformancecars.com/crosley/tips.htm (2 of 2) [4/12/2004 12:02:25 AM]
Driveshaft carrier bearings
Pay attention here!

In the following photos I will show an over looked problem with two(2) piece drive lines.
Look closely at this position of the bearing to the tube of the drive shaft. Now look at this photo. See where the bearing is moved "away" from the tube? The bearing was moved by hand! This center support bearing is a PRESS FIT and must not move freely! When the front section of drive shaft can move forward towards the
http://www.highperformancecars.com/crosley/drvline.htm (1 of 3) [4/12/2004 12:02:42 AM]
tranny it will put pressure against the output shaft of the tranny and cause damage to the thrust beraings and washers inside the tranny!

700R4/ 4L60 I D info! 700R4 problem areas Trans case measurements Valvebody bolt warning 700R4 electronic to cable speedo info. Sumner's 700/4L60 Tech Info page
Lockup wiring Driveshaft warning Filter warning
Use your "back button" to return to the previous page. OR Main Trans page
Send your questions to
Broken 4L60/700R4 Filter
Pay Attention!
Often a DIY or quicky lube person will service an automatic transmission of the 700r4 family of transmissions. When they drop the tranny pan and pull the filter out the filter sealing sleeve will stay inide the pump. Does this person pull the sleeve out or remove the new sleeve off of the new filter??
NO!
The results is the new filter is pushed lower with 2 sleeves and when the pan is tightened up the tube can crack or deform resulting in the pump sucking air.
http://www.highperformancecars.com/crosley/filter.htm (1 of 4) [4/12/2004 12:02:59 AM]
Here is a photo of a 700/4L60 pump with 2 sleeves in it. Remove both sleeves carefully to avoid damage to the aluminum.
Here is a pump with one sleeve inside of it. Carefully remove this to avoid damage to the aluminum where the sleeve seals ! The links below provide additional info on the 700/4L60 trans.
700R4/ 4L60 I D info! 700R4 problem areas Trans case measurements Valvebody bolt warning 700R4 electronic to cable speedo info. Sumner's 700/4L60 Tech Info page
Lockup wiring Driveshaft warning
Use your "back button" to return to the previous page. Or Main Trans page email me
700/4l60 pump information
Pump warnings for the DIY person!
This picture shows the direction to drive the bushing OUT of the pump to avoid damage to the pump. Drive the bushing out the back side of the pump! The drum the pump half is sitting on is Broken! Do not use a good drum like this!
http://www.highperformancecars.com/crosley/pump.htm (1 of 3) [4/12/2004 12:03:06 AM]
More to follow, I've been busy.
Sumner's 700/4L60 Tech Info page Lockup wiring some tips Filter warning Pump stuff Driveshaft warning
Email Tony.
Tranz page
Crosley's Home Page
Crosley Automobile
Welcome to My World
Well you have found me. In the late 60's and into the 70's I did alot of Drag and Street Racing! Since that time I have become interested in unusual automobiles.
Choose Your Poison

Family Work Crosley Autos Just Stuff
Link's
My Shop
OldCars
Transmission Info
1948 Simca
61 Lancer
61 Lancer pg.2
The above links work!
Send your questions to
copyrighted--1998/2002
http://www.highperformancecars.com/crosley/index.htm (1 of 2) [4/12/2004 12:03:08 AM]
Crosley Automobile
use the information on these pages at your own risk!!
http://www.highperformancecars.com/crosley/index.htm (2 of 2) [4/12/2004 12:03:08 AM]
Sumner's (1FATGMC) Home Page -- Street Rods, Teardrop Trailers, Bonneville Racing
Back to Purple Sage Trading Post Home Page
Welcome to Sumner's (1FATGMC) Home Page!

Hot Rods, Customs, Street Rods, Teardrop Trailers spoken here....
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Turning 100,000 miles near the Oklahoma-New Mexico State Line in May of 2002 going to Missouri.
Hi. Hope you enjoy this site and the links to some of my favorite sites. If you have time check back as I will try to keep adding more. E-mail me if you have any questions or would like to tell me about your truck or car. Want to get in touch with me? Email me! sumner1@purplesagetradingpost.com C ya, Sum 1FATGMC is my GMC plate and FATTEAR is my teardrop plate. Honk and wave if you see me.
Links to Automotive & Teardrop Sites

Over 338 Automotive and Teardrop Links (updated 05-0400) -- Links are arranged: Alphabetically by Name; Alphabetically by Subject; by Rodder's Home Pages and by Teardrop Sites and Teardrop Supplies
Links to different areas of my site:

Construction Photos Of My New House....................
Under Construction Photos Of My '48 GMC .........
My Teardrop Trailer Pages ........
My High School '51 Ford Vicky & '61 Chevy Wagon

........
Tech Information:Metal Working Projects using my Mill/Drill and Lathe 700R4 Transmission -- Installation Information,
Dimensions, Questions, etc.
Paint & Bodywork Information -- Basically how I

do paint and bodywork and tips.
Homemade Sheet Metal Brake -- I built this and

used it to build my teardrop.
Setting up and Spraying with Harbor Freight HVLP Spray Gun #38308 SBC Cylinder Head Information -- Comparisons
of 20 SBC Heads. Chamber sizes, runner sizes, flow numbers, etc. (updated 03-08-00)
One Wire Alternators -- Information. (updated 02-1100)
How I chopped my GMC's Top -- From an article in

Rod & Custom.
How To Setup Your Driveline -- Power Train SetUp Guide By Greg Frick of Inland Empire Driveline Service
My Bonneville Lakester Construction Pictures -- Just

getting started.
Bonneville Pictures -- Pictures from 2000 and 2002 Car Show Pictures -- from various shows. ........
Rodder's First Rides--Pictures of Rodder's First Cars ........
My Great Uncle Len Zengel ........................
Shush's Home Page ....................................
My Ex-Wyoming House -- The first house I built in 1976.
The Rodder's Roundtable Webring Check out Cybercrusin's Rodder's Roundtable forum
This Rodder's Roundtable Web Ring site is owned by 1.FAT.GMC. [ Previous | Skip It | Next 5 | Random | List all sites | Next ] Want to join the ring? Get the info.
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700R4 Info Page 1
Return to Tech Info Page..............................Return to Sumner's Home Page

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Next Page of 700R4 info.
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700R4 Information
PLEASE READ THIS: I am not a transmission repairman. I use a 700R4 in my truck

and have accumulated the following information that might help you. A lot of problems with this transmission after installation are due to improper TV cable hookup and adjustment. I have that info here along with wiring information for the lockup converter. If are having internal problems with the transmission I'm sorry, but I can't help, so please don't e-mail me about those kind of problems. You need to talk to a repairman or you might trying posting on Rodder's Roundtable Forum and post the question to Tony (board name is Crosley). He works on these transmissions all the time and you can trust his answers.
It is very important to set up the Throttle Valve (T.V.) cable linkage properly to prevent damage to your transmission. I can't stress how important the geometric relationship of the hook up point on the carb for the T.V. cable is with this transmission (see following pages). All of these distances and angles will determining where the cable is at close throttle and WOT and all points in between. If they aren't right it is going to be hard to get the transmission to shift right under all load combinations and you sooner or later you will be fixing the transmission. This is a great transmission. Take the time to set it up properly and it will last a long time. I used the following info to set mine up on two different carbs and it has been working correctly. One way to test the linkage setup is to take off in first with normal acceleration and then when the trans does the 1-2 shift nail it and it should kick back down into 1st. I adjusted mine until the point it wouldn't do the downshift and then back the other way with the slider so that it would. I am not a transmission expert, builder or anything else so if in doubt check with a good transmission person. If you can't read any of this stuff let me know and I will help you. I will be adding to this page as I get more 700R4 stuff. I really like the transmission and like to read about it. If you have anything you would like to post here about the 700R4 e-mail me. c ya, Sum
http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/700R4p1.html (1 of 6) [4/12/2004 12:10:12 AM]
700R4 Info Page 1
The following drawing shows the geometry for the cable connection to the carb. On one of the Q-jets I used there was a mounting hole at the right radius from the throttle shaft center
700R4 Info Page 1
line, but not at the right angle. I cut almost all the way through the throttle shaft bell crank above the mounting hole and bent the bell crank to the right angle and mig welded the gap closed. I just put a wet rag next to the carb body and welded in a couple short bursts. On another Q-Jet I cut the bell crank on the throttle shaft above an existing mounting hole and below the center line of the shaft. I moved the mounting hole to the correct location and welded a little filler piece behind the two parts to relocate the mounting hole in the proper position so it was at the correct radius from the center line and at the correct angle. It only took a few minutes to do this on both of the carbs and needs to be done to make sure you don't ruin your transmission. Some mounting tabs are now also available for different carbs if you don't feel like doing this yourself.
700R4 Info Page 1
This next image is from the TCI instructions, which is the kit I used and I can recommend.
The following image might be a little hard to make out, but it shows how I wired in a DPDT center off switch into the wires going to the transmission that control the lock-up for the convertor. Using the three switch positions as follows: center off position -- never locked; down position -- automatically locks going into 4th and unlocks on the 4-3 shift; and up position -- manually locked in 2nd, 3rd or
700R4 Info Page 1
4th. Note: Look further down the page for Peter Row's wiring diagram on using a SPDT center off switch.
The LED in this wiring mess is in my instrument panel and lights anytime the convertor is locked. Don't need to have it, just something I wanted. If you don't use the engine (ported) vacuum switch then the wire from terminal D should be grounded at all times. With the vacuum switch this line is grounded any time there is vacuum above about 2 to 3 inches. ADDITIONAL LED WIRING INFORMATION: One side of the LED goes to the 12 volt source for the lockup (wire going to the A terminal on the transmission). That way if for some reason you don't have 12 volts going to the lockup it will be a clue as the LED will not light in 4th. If it lights and then you still have no lockup you know the problem is not no voltage to the lockup solenoid or no ground as if either of these was missing the LED would not light. The other side of the LED goes to the wire that goes to the B terminal on the transmission. This wire is connected to ground only when the pressure switch closes going into 4th to lock up the convertor or it will be grounded if you use a second manual switch attached to the B terminal to manually lock the transmission. When it goes to ground then the LED lights. Now all of this will only work if you have a kit similar
700R4 Info Page 1
to the TCI kit I'm using that has a pressure switch that goes into a port that sees pressure only when in 4th and/or you are using a manually operated switch connected to terminal B on one side and ground on the other side of the switch. I used a radio shack LED and since it wasn't for 12 volts I run a resistor in series with it to drop the voltage. I'll try and see if I can find the value of the resistor I used. If you have an LED that works on 12 volts then you don't need the resistor. Next is a wiring diagram by Peter Row that looks good to me. This is untested, but I see no reason why it won't work. This circuit controls everything via the ground side. Mine does this also, but cuts the 12 volts in the center off position to the clutch. No real reason to cut the 12 volts, so you might want to give this a try. It uses a SPDT center off switch. Thanks, Peter
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700R4 Info Page 2
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Next Page of 700R4 info. -- Cable Suggestions --
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The following is a post by Wayne Petty: >got a 1986 Chevy K-10 with a 350, all kinds of little goodies on it. the tranny is the factory TH700-R4. My manual explains how to adjust the cable, but it doesn't seem like its describing too good cause I can't follow it at all. so, if anyone can help me out, I would appreciate it. the cable is the stock one that came with the truck. the trans is not vacuum modulated, controlled by the cable attached to carb. the cable is hooked up, but due to a different carb, the resting position is pulling on the cable, so at WOT, the cable stops the throttle from opening all the way. terrible situation here. so, please HELP go to your trans parts shop and get a 39" replacement throttle valve cable from fits all 1800 527 2544 it has a long center cable with an adjustable screw stop which will compensate for the difference in the tbi unit you took off and the 4 bbl that you installed .(I know what you are doing) measure the centerline of the throttle shaft to the center of the t/v stud (usually 30 mm) and make sure that the replacement carb has the same dimension . if your carb has a ball you will need to change it and install a walker # 72-1350 carb lever stud available through you local carb shop . as I recall the throttle cable needs to be maxed out at WOT for proper adjustment if the 30 mm centerlines are not adhered to you may torch the trans as the pressure curve will be wrong best of luck wayne fixer of most things broken
700R4 Info Page 2
-- Idea using no lockup kit -The following is from Tony on RRT on 10-21-99: Actually all the parts you need for the Lockup convertor to work is already in the 700 unit. A single wire case connector from a T 400 and BOOM you are flying. I have never seen the need for a brake light switch from a late model vehicle to cancel lock up of the converter. Also from Tony: Sumner, non computer shifted 700's have pressure switches and a wiring harness in them that can be modified for 4th gear lock only. And you can use the square OEM case connector too. The single wire case connector looks cleaner and some ppl cannot figure out the proper hole to put 12 volts into on the OEM 700 case connector. Only need to hook up 12 volts to the case connector for the convertor lock up. With my system you do not have separate switch for convertor control like some kits provide. I have found the best shift to 4th and convertor lock up "feel" comes from using a 2 wire lock up (late style) solenoid. You wire 12 volts to the solenoid and run the ground wire from the solenoid to the correct pressure port on the valve body. The switch to use on the VB is a single wire terminal type, normally open grounding type. I say this offers the best "feel" since there is a few split seconds before the pressure builds after the shift to 4th to close the switch and engage the convertor. A single wire solenoid can be used just as easily. Just wire the 12 volts through the pressure switch to the self grounding solenoid. The switch must be a normally open type, closes with pressure.
700R4 Info Page 2
Also no electric is needed for convertor l/up. Installing a 1/4" check ball ( same size as used in the 700) into the hole on the end of the solenoid will l/up the convertor in 2, 3 and 4th. It down shifts very harshly though since the convertor is locked. A 5/16" check ball is OK also. I have found the brake light switch cancel feature un necessary for 90% of cars. Also you speak of the convertor un locking on down hill coasting and saving some gas as the rpm drops. What is happening inside the trans is a one way sprag is "over running" and can over heat if you have a long coast. The sprag is designed to over run, but not for a long period. At low rpm the cooler/lube flow is reduced.
-- Another Idea using no lockup kit -The following is an e-mail conversation from Jeff Fennema on 10-22-99: Saw your 700 page. Thanks for collecting the info. You can do what the TCI kit is doing for you cheaper by cannibalizing any GM vehicle with a lockup converter. Just get the vacuum switch and the brake cutout, wire the same 'cept run the wire (12v.) from the vacuum through the brake switch before heading down to the trans. TCI's diagram even looks like the GM switch. I then replied: Jeff, Thanks for the info, except I got a question. The TCI kit gives you a pressure switch which you use in the valve body (a port that only has pressure in 4th), so the converter only locks up in 4th gear. Wiring it the way you stated wouldn't the converter lock up in all gears except 1st and maybe 2nd? and he replied: Indeed it would. Just as the factory designed the trucks. I don't necessarily see any problem, as even in third, you'd be going at a good clip when the vacuum switch allowed a lockup.
700R4 Info Page 2
Going from 'signal generator to speedo cable Question from Darren on RRT (11-06-99)....I have a G20 van '85 year model I bought used it has a turbo 350 trans in it and I bought a 700r4 trans to put in it but the speedo sending unit has two wire plug and my van has a cable. Can the sending unit be changed or does the tail shaft assembly have to be changed? Tony Says... The output shaft has a "signal generator " on it for electronic speedos. It's a metal disc with thin square edged teeth on it. Pull it off and there should be a hole in the out put shaft where a regular metal retaining clip for a plastic speedo gear will install. Tony has a lot more on this subject on his 700R4 pages ( converting to cable ) Also from Tony: Look here for a speedo cable inline signal generator for ECM's.
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700R4 Info Page 3

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Next Page of 700R4
info.
-- More Tech Info on the 700R4 -Gear comparisons for 700R4 vs. other GM Transmissions: .............................1st.......2nd....3rd....4th Power Glide.........1.76......1.0 TH350 .................2.52.....1.52....1.0 TH400.................2.48.....1.48....1.0 700-R4/4L60.......3.06.....1.63....1.0.....70 200-R4.................2.74.....1.57....1.0.....67 4L80E..................2.48.....1.48....1.0.....75 Note: Some Powerglides come with a 1.82 1st
Need More Info: This site has some great 700R4 help and
information along with areas for information on other transmissions. transonline.com
700R4 Info Page 3
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700R4 Info Page 4

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-- More Tech Info on the 700R4 -The following information is from Tony of RRT. (thanks Tony) -- In the photos of the 700r4
valve bodies with and without switches: "A" is where the switch for convertor lock up in 4th gear needs to be installed. I recommend removal of the other switches (if any) and 1/8th inch pipe plugs installed. In the photo with out switches : "C" is a valve that should be blocked in place. This requires removal of the valve body from the trans. Many DIY ppl will not do this since gasket tear is possible. It's easier to block the valve during the rebuild process
of the trans. A blocking pin about 1/8th diameter (welding rod), .890 long works well. Leave the spring in place. This blocks the "line bias" valve and improves shift firmness above 1/2 throttle.
700R4 Info Page 4
Transmission Identification for 700R4 -- Tony's 700R4 pages
More Information from Tony: 700 trans have NO modulator, never

did. lock up Solenoids can have 1 or 2 wires. 1 wire is self grounding, 2 wire is not. 2 wire is later model (85 up, i think) and is what most ppl see now a daze. Power is routed thru brake lite switch first, that way the brake pedal over rides every thing. factory wiring harnesses in 700s have been many and varied! they became consistent in
700R4 Info Page 4
about 86 or 87 with some variations. Your kit provides for l/up over ride as I remember. That is why they route the ground back out the case connector "D" which is the same for the factory setup for many years. I do not believe your kit has a temp sensor in the harness like the factory does. Temp sensor over rides lock up in cold climates. I am not familiar with the lock up kits since I do not use them. 12 volts to "A" and ground to "D" should provide lock up on most late 700's . Speedo gears are the same from 1981 till the 700 went to electronic speedo which was not all models in the same year of start of electronic speedos. The 700 pump is virtually the same from 1982 thru 1992 except for vane count, slider springs (early 1 spring,late 85 & up 2 springs), and pump bushing bore with a retaining edge. In later pumps the bushing must be installed from the inside of the pump because GM left a machined lip to help prevent the bushing from walking out the front. On early pumps you file some notches on the inside edge of the bushing bore and "stake" the bushing in place while using red lock tight. Always use the 4L60E bushing as it has a Teflon type coating. Installing dual springs for the slider is simple and cheap. Early pumps have 7 vanes, later pumps have 10 vanes, with 1996( I think) and newer have 13 vanes. A 7 vane pump has plenty of volume to operate the trans. Industry trans ppl have told me the vane count increase was to quiet the operation of the pump, not really to increase pump volume. That statement makes little sense to me, so take it any way you wish. The second valve body on 700's is actually an accumulator for forward clutch pack engagement. This softens the apply feel of the trans into drive. They also installed a check ball into the case to soften reverse clutch pack engagement. I remove the reverse ball and either limit the accumulator pistons movement in the second valve body or install a stiffer spring in place of the stock spring. Depending on price a later trans is preferred, but early ones can work just as well.
700R4 Info Page 4
A 700 from a 4.3 V6 usually is cheaper to buy and they have the same internal hard parts, only fewer friction plate count, which is easily corrected........
The seal popping is a reason the drain hole must be enlarged on the early pump bodies.....ALSO enlarge the hole in the stator/pump cover body too! Many ppl over look this hole for the drain back. Keith, also make sure your shop instals a 4L60E bushing, they are coated and a late type seal has 2 lip seals (oil & dust). Make sure they file notches and stake the bushing with loctite! Loctite the seal and use the seal retaining collar to. I had a staked bushing move last year on a truck that the guy was towing sand buggies in 3rd gear , not locked up. The bushing will move out and touch the seal , you then have a serious leak! The customer got the trans very hot! I changed lock up to 3rd gear foe him instead of 4th gear only. The lube hole at the lock up valve should be at least .110 for better lube in lock up mode for the rear planet. What ever the hole size is , opening it up 30% will double the oil flow! A fluid engineer told me this. A competent shop will know the mods necessary to help this trans, if not I can help .....I hope , LOL
For Improper Shift Points ==== verify full TV pull at the trans. Or a guage on the pump pressure port will show line rise as the cable is pulled even at idle. Your trans expert will have the tools to test this. If the line rise is good, then put softer springs in the govenor. This should raise the shift points. If the shift points are raised, but not enough, grind the weights off or install a vette govenor and try that. The gov springs can be cut off a little too. I build 8-10 various transmissions a week and do this often If that does not work, you need a stiffer spring in the 2-3 shift valve. Start with a spring 1 pound stiffer.......it does not take much to change the shift point. Also check the TV "up" and "down" valves in the valve body. if one or both is stuck that will cause it too. Sometimes a bigger boost valve and spring will throw the calibrations of the valve body way off (if these were installed) Tony
And more from Tony.....============== there are several things to do for 2-3 shift improvement. First block the line bias valve in place. This valve blows off main line pressure above 1/2 throttle. A steel pin 1/8 inch in diameter about .890 long fits most of them and fits inside the OEM spring. The shiming of the 2nd gear servo is important. That servo is also the accumulator for 3rd gear. THe bigger TransGo kits come with a gold ring, about an 1/8 inch thick to shim the 2nd servo area with. This is a good shim to use to shorten servo movement and shifts on the 700.
700R4 Info Page 4
there is a new band , about 3/8 inch wider than OEM style units. You must have the drum fairly surface flat, check it with a straight edge. A lathe may be needed to trim the drum up a bit to flatten it out. The drum will chatter in the lathe while machining unless you use a disc brake rotor strap to calm chatter effect. A rubber bungy strap works too. Always check band clearance, the output shaft should turn both ways. One direction is harder to turn than the others. The hard turning direction is the band grabing the drum. If you need to use channel lock pliers to turn the shaft that direction, yet it turns fairly easily with the pliers the clearance is OK. The aluminum second gear servo has a large spring under the steel cover that the servo pin goes thru. Removing this spring and cover, shimming up the pin as needed removes the 2-3 shift accumilation from the system. Use a 093 vette servo, aftermaket # is 93-1. The gear spacing on a 700 is something I have never liked. 3.06 first, 1.83 second gear. Thats a big jump in gear ratio. That may not help drag times. We drag raced a shoe box nova in the early 80's with a 700 trans. 5.38 gears allowed short use of OD thru the traps. Alto offers a 3-4 clutch kit with red frictions that works very well. Kolene steels help to reduce problems from heat build up in the 3-4 clutch pack ( a commom problem).
700R4 Info Page 4
-- More Tech Info on the 700R4 -Reference Books (both these books are worth having):
1. ATSG THM700R4 Techtran Manual (305) 661-4161 -- A good diagnostic tool and also shows rebuild information. 2. Haynes Tech Book #10360 -- GM Automatic Transmission Over Haul -ISBN #1563921693 -- Tells how to overhaul the 350/400 and the 700R4. It has tons of pictures of the disassembly and the reassemble.
Transmission Dimensions
700R4 Info Page 4
(try these sites):

1. TCI's Site -- Transmission Dimension Page
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Info Page
Metal Working Projects Index
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Metal Working Projects
Index
I have recently (2003) bought a Harbor Freight 12" X 36" metal lathe (Harbor Freight #33274) and an Enco Model 1051145 21" Swing Geared-Head Mill/Drill. Enco and Grizzly both sell what appears to be the same lathe as the Harbor Freight lathe and Harbor Freight and Grizzly also seem to sell the same mill/drill as the Enco one I purchased. These are Chinese products. The following are metal working projects that I have done using the above mill/drill and lathe. I'm just a beginner at using these, but I thought maybe some of what I've done might help someone else. If you have any feedback or suggestions just e-mail me. c ya, Sum ...................
http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/metalworking/metalworking-index.html (1 of 3) [4/12/2004 12:10:42 AM]
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Page 1 ... Quill Mounted Dial Indicator holder for an Enco Mill or Harbor Freight gear head mill. Page 2 ... Collet Mounted Dial Indicator holder for an Enco Mill or Harbor Freight gear head mill. Page 3 ... Cut-off Tool Holder for Harbor Freight 33274 Lathe (12" X 36")
Page 4 ... A Press to Remove Links from a Chain Saw Chain Page 5 ... Boring Bar Holder for 4-Way Tool Post on Lathe
Paint & Bodywork Index
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to next Page -- Priming,
Blocking, etc.
- Bodywork & Painting Index ....................
I've put these pages on the site to help others who might not have a lot of experience with body work and/or painting. What I offer here is what I've learned from others; books; and on my own. Remember there is usually more than one way to do something and still have it come out fine. I'm trying to show how a novice might over a course of time repair and paint his specialty car using common inexpensive equipment (relatively inexpensive) in a home garage/shop. The following is what has worked for me, but I'm always looking to improve, so I'm open to suggestions. Sum
Bodywork & Painting Guide Pages

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Paint & Bodywork Index
Page 1 -- Metal prep and Bondo Appliccation Page 2 -- Priming, Blocking, etc. Painting and Bodywork Tips -- Equipment, Safety, Bondo, etc. Repairs on 1FATGMC -- How I repaired an area with base/clear. Harbor Freight HVLP Spray Gun -- Setting up and Spraying Instructions
- Go to next Page -- Priming, Blocking, etc. ........... .....................Return
to Sumner's Home Page ....................................... Return to Tech Info Index
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Press Brake Page 1
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Return to Sumner's Home Page .. Mike's Press Brake Page 2
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Sheet Metal Brake Page 1

Press Brake -- I built this
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brake out of steel I had left over from other projects. So far I have been using it to bend 20 gauge cold rolled steel in widths up to 4 feet. I have bent 16 gauge, but I think this is the limit with this design. The 16 gauge was 12 inches long. More than that and I think you would have to use 2 or 3 jacks although Mike has bent long pieces of 16 gauge with his with a single jack. I did provide places for up to 3 jacks, but with the 20 gauge I have been using the one has been adequate. On the plans below I traced actual bends of 20 and 16 gauge steel to give you an idea of the sharpness of the bend. ...................... For a sharper bend use the option die layout I have shown. Actually different dies can be used and just laid into the bottom angle. Also if you made angles (dies) of different lengths and laid them in the bottom angle in such a way as to raise the steel to be bent above the bottom angle you could bend just partially across a piece of steel. The part not to be bent would just go straight through the brake. This is hard to explain, but if I do it (and I plan to) I'll get some more pictures/drawings up to explain it. Remember I used the steel I had laying around the shop to build this and you could substitute other pieces at various points in the design. Keep the pieces above the top
http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/teardrop/sheetmetalbrake.html (1 of 3) [4/12/2004 12:14:07 AM]
Press Brake Page 1
die thin (the 2 pieces of 3/8X1 strap in the drawing) for a ways up above the top die so during a bend you are not hitting the metal to be bent in this area. This is especially important if you are making two bends close to one another. This brake has some limitations, but considering the price (a jack and some steel) it's a deal I think. If you improve on it send me some pictures/drawings to post for everyone. Also you can't bend past 90 degrees, but you can bend any angle less than 90. Also if you bend to 90 it is not to hard to use a hammer to go past 90 as the crease in the metal is there. See the next page for a similar brake that Mike (Outlaw on RRT) built (Mike has been bending 20 and 16 gauge with his). Mike's Press Brake If you have any question about the brake or it's construction just e-mail me. Have fun bending, Sum.
Press Brake Page 1
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Go to Mike's Press Brake Page 2
HVLP Spray Gun Setup
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- HVLP Spray Gun -
Please note: The #38308 gun I have is no longer sold by Harbor Freight. They have replaced it with a similar gun that uses a little more air and it's number is #43430. It sprays as good as the #38308 gun, but I haven't used it, but some others have and you can go to the next page for feedback on the new gun. It seems to respond well to the setup instructions I have below. Here is some good feedback on the new #43430 gun: Feedback from Doug Cox on the 43430 gun Pictures of the Semi Hood Mike
http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/HVLPspraygun.html (1 of 5) [4/12/2004 12:14:08 AM]
Painted
The Harbor Freight HVLP gun #38308 and the newer #43430 gun is a great gun to use for primers and will also do an excellent job with base color coats and high build clears. It is a good gun for the part time painter as it puts on enough paint to do a good job, but not as much as an expensive production gun does that will get us novices in trouble. This is not a gun a professional would use for overall paint jobs, but I know a lot of pros use this gun for panel repair and primers. So if you are a part time painter who probably paints his rod in pieces and you need a gun that doesn't consume a lot of air I can recommend this gun. I spray with a 5 hp single stage compressor. This is probably the bare minimum you can get away with for an overall paint job (car in one piece). For high build primers (mixed in highest build form) you might want to order their 1.7 Tip Kit for the gun from their service dept. (the gun comes with a 1.4 tip). No, I don't work for Harbor Freight, I just like to pass on a good thing when I know one and this is one case where a low cost item has great performance. The one bad thing about the gun is that the instructions are not very good, so I have made up the following instructions
based on my experiences with the gun. Any feed back you have on the gun or these instructions is welcome. Sumner
Setting up and spraying with the Harbor Freight HVLP gun #38308 and the 43430 Pressure Adjustment: Open your compressor regulator
up so there is plenty of air pressure in the line to the gun (I set mine to about 90 psi). Next set the regulator on the gun handle to 50 psi (what I use for DP40 and K36) with the trigger pulled and leave it set there. Close the valve at the bottom of the handle (on the gun, not the regulator) and then with the trigger pulled, open it to the point where the air volume starts to stay the same (just listen to it) and leave it there (it should be pretty far open at this point). I never mess with this after this unless I think it has been changed. Note: On my two year old gun they say the maximum pressure is 60 psi. On my new gun it says 40 psi. Instead of the 50 psi above you might try 40 psi if your gun says 40 psi max.
Fan Adjustment: Next open the fluid volume control

about 3 turns for starters (at the back of the gun). Close the fan control down (on the left side of the gun behind the nozzle) so when you spray you only get small round circle. With the gun about 6 to 8 inches from a test surface (I use the garage door or better yet some sheet rock, or masking paper) move the gun across
the surface (about 6 to 8 inches from the surface) and pull the trigger. As you are moving turn the fan control until you get the desired fan shape/width (about 5-6 inches wide top to bottom oval shape for overall painting) (remember if you are spraying up and down on a surface you can change the nozzle at the front of the gun 90 deg. so the fan is horizontal).
Fluid Control: Next after getting the fan the right size
continue spraying and adjust the fluid volume at the back of the gun for the final adjustment to get the fluid right for the gun speed (how fast you sweep it across the work). You want to be laying on the paint at a pretty good volume, but not causing runs at a normal gun sweep speed.
Changing the pressure to match spec sheets:

Now you're ready to paint and with 50 psi at the handle the gun is spraying about 10 psi at the cap. If you want 5 psi at the cap put 25 at the handle regulator (8 psi = 40 psi, 7 psi= 35 psi, etc.). You can't actually see the pressure at the cap which is what the spec sheets are referring to. The gun is internally regulating the pressure down based on the inlet pressure. Some expensive guns have a gauge off the back of the handle that tells you the cap pressure and then they also have a regulator and gauge at the bottom of the handle like this gun that regulates the pressure into the gun.
Painting: Look at what your painting and the way the paint is
going on the surface right behind the gun and adjust from there. For instance if you want to spray some small areas/parts you can turn the fan down to a small round size. You will also have to greatly shut the fluid volume down at the back of the gun (clockwise) at the same time to avoid runs. I usually turn the air
pressure at the regulator on the handle down to around 25 to 35 psi to do spot work like this.
Proper Pressure: Remember you need a high air pressure

(Set as the spec sheet calls for) so that you get proper atomization and so you can turn the volume up. The higher pressure will actually mean fewer runs since the atomization is better. This is not so critical with the primers, but you really need it with the sealer, base, and clear coats so you get good coverage without runs and with little orange peel.
Note: I'm not a professional painter, but the above is what

works for me. If anyone else has anything they would like to add to the above or comment on please e-mail me.
Click here for the 43430 Information page

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Small Block Chevy Should Have Built
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350 Chevy Should Have Built
This is a very interesting engine that Hot Rod built which I believe has a lot of good ideas. I've priced it out from the different suppliers and it looks to me that it is going to cost between $4000 and $4500 to build not $2995 as stated, but still not bad for what you get. I checked with AFR and they said Hot Rod had the heads laying around from a project (I believe a 305) they never got to and that AFR would recommend larger valves in the same heads, which should even give a better engine. A number of these engines have been build and it sounds like the owners are happy, but I've never found one to talk to. The cam used is Comp Cams 12-420-8 (270HR -- Hyd Roller with 215/215 at .050 and .500/.500 lift). Be sure and check out the very wide torque range of this engine (over 400 from from 2800 to 5200). What a street engine!
http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/350%20chevy%20engine.html (1 of 7) [4/12/2004 12:15:29 AM]
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SBC Cylinder Head Info
- SBC Cylinder Head Info I've compiled the following information on SBC Cylinder heads to help compare them. For the flow remember bigger is not always best. Some of the heads with large flows and big runners are not going to be good street heads, since they will have slow flow through the runners at street rpm. Also if you have a cam with less than .500 inches of lift then the flows at .500 of an inch and above mean nothing to you. A lot of people recommend looking at the flows around .400 for a street motor as that is the lift you will see for a good part of the cam duration. The flow figures below are from a couple different sources, so we are not necessarily comparing apples to apples, but they should be close. A special thanks to Paul Shufelt for helping me with some of the numbers below. Finally I need help filling in some of the blank spaces in the charts. If you have any of this missing info or some of this is wrong please e-mail me. Thanks, Sum AFR 180cc -- AFR 190cc -- AFR Race 210cc
http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/heads1.html (1 of 7) [4/12/2004 12:15:33 AM]
Brodix 8 Pro -- Brodix Track 1 Canfield Aluminum Dart Conquest 200 -- Dart Iron Eagle Edelbrock RPM -- Edelbrock 23 deg -- Edelbrock Victor Jr. Edelbrock E-Tec 170 -- Edelbrock E-Tec 200 -Edelbrock Performer GM Fast Burn -- GM Vortec 855 -- GM L98 Vette -- GM LT4 GM LS1 -- GM 882 -- GM 441 -- GM 462 -- GM LT1 372 Holley System Max Pro Top Line (Lightning) 180's -- Pro Top Line (Lightning) 200's -- 200 Aluminum Trick Flow 23 Deg. -- Trick Flow Twisted World SR Torquers -- World Sportsman
Manufacturer & Head Type Valve Sizes I/E 2.02/1.60 AFR Street 180cc Aluminum AFR Street 190cc Aluminum 2.02/1.60 AFR Race 210cc Aluminum 2.08/1.60 Edelbrock RPM . . Edelbrock 23 deg
Chamber Size Intake Runner Exhaust Runner Flow Int/Exh @
74cc & 68cc 180cc 64cc *10
74cc & 68cc 190cc & 195cc 64cc *10 ?/? 129/108 195/156 240/178 260/190 262/194
76cc 210cc 80cc *10
64cc & 70cc 170cc 60cc *4 72/61
71cc 212cc 60cc *4 78/69 140/116 200/158 242/195 270/213 275/224
See footnotes: 0.100 0.200 0.300 0.400 0.500 0.600 0.700 ?/? 129/108 195/156 240/178 255/190 260/194 135/112 197/145 245/185 273/205 282/215 285/220 134/105 188/140 224/160 233/172 233/179
Manufacturer & Head Type Valve Sizes Edelbrock Victor Jr.
Edelbrock E-Tec 170 Aluminum 1.94/1.50
Edelbrock E-Tec 200 Aluminum 2.02/1.60 64cc 200cc 78cc *9 67/57 122/110 175/153 223/182 252/196 259/204 265/207
Edelbrock Performer
Chamber Size Intake Runner Exhaust Runner Flow Int/Exh @
70cc 215cc 60cc *1
64cc 170cc 70cc *9 64/54 130/104 186/140 220/169 232/183 238/190
70cc 170cc 60cc *2 66/55 135/103 186/135 215/151 220/165 222/169
See Footnotes: 0.100 0.200 0.300 0.400 0.500 0.600 0.700 67/64 123/111 173/145 219/180 255/198 275/206 284/?
Manufacturer & Head Type Valve Size Chamber Size Intake Runner Exhaust Runner Flow Int/Exh @ *1 See Footnotes: 0.100 0.200 0.300 0.400 0.500 0.600 0.700 Manufacturer & Head Type Valve Size Chamber Size Intake Runner Exhaust Runner Flow Int/Exh @ *1 See Footnotes: 0.100 0.200 0.300 125/94 177/123 Brodix 8 Pro 132/102 187/131 225/150 240/164 243/162 64 & 72cc 200cc World Sportsman
World SR Torquers Iron 2.02/1.60 67 & 76cc 170cc
Dart Conquest 200
Dart Iron Eagle
Canfield
Aluminum 64 & 72cc 180 to 230cc
*3 and *6 67/55 128/104 179/140 205/156 221/166 225/170
*1
*1
*1
126/105 171/133 217/162 252/179 274/188 268/?
129/112 182/139 226/166 258/178 255/186 ?/187
141/107 201/143 247/175 258/190 257/200
Brodix Track 1 69cc 215cc
Holley System Max
Trick Flow 23 Deg. Aluminum 64cc
Trick Flow Twisted Aluminum 67 190 82
*1 60/50 130/103 178/142
*1
*8 51/58
*1
130/92 184/122
136/98 191/136
127/116 186/155
0.400 0.500 0.600 0.700
220/144 254/164 226/170
223166 256175 259/183
222/148 242/172 252/187
230/163 253/177 254/190
227/183 254/204 265/213
Manufacturer & Head Type Valve Size Chamber Size Intake Runner Exhaust Runner Flow Int/Exh @ *2 See Footnotes: 0.100 0.200 0.300 0.400 0.500 0.600 0.700 62/55 136/104 187/133 232/158 266/180 275/193 62cc 210cc 78cc GM Fast Burn
GM Vortec 855 Cast Iron 194.150 64cc 170cc
GM L98 Vette
GM LS1 GM LT4 2.00/1.55 65cc 204cc
194.150 ?/? 58cc ?
*6 and *7 70/49 139/105 190/137 227/151 239/160 229/162
*3 55/52 120/104 160/133 186/151 196/170
*1
*6 83/62
147/114 197/141 230/167 250/180 243/185
134/104 189/136 222/165 240/179 252/185
Manufacturer & GM 882 Head Type Cast-Iron Valve Size Chamber Size Intake Runner Exhaust Runner 76cc 151cc
GM 441 Cast-Iron 1.94/1.50 76cc 155cc
GM 462 Cast-Iron 1.94/1.50 62cc 156cc
GM LT1 372
1.94/1.50 56cc 170cc
Flow Int/Exh @ 28 in. *5 See Footnotes: 0.100 0.200 0.300 0.400 0.500 0.600 0.700 Pro Top Line Pro Lightning 180 Iron Heads (same casting as Alum.) 2.02/1.60 180cc 70/58 125/108 175/135 204/141 205/142 206/142
*6 55/45 110/83 160/118 194/133 201/146 203/148
*6 50/54 119/91 167/121 198/134 212/139 218/142
*6 72/53 129/101 180/136 213/155 214/165 215/171
Manufacturer & Head Type Valve Size
Pro Top Line Pro Lightning 200 Iron Heads 2.055/1.60
Pro Top Line Pro Lightning 200 Alum. Heads 2.055/1.60 50cc/64cc/72cc 200cc
Chamber Size Intake Runner Exhaust Runner
50cc/64cc/72cc 50cc/64cc/72cc 200cc
Flow Int/Exh @ 28 in. *12 ------- *13 See Footnotes: 0.100 0.200 0.300 0.400 0.500
*13
*13 71/57 146/101 204/157 250/177 260/186
58/49 -----74/57 69/57 113/93 -151/101 163/125 207/157 203/151 243/177 231/170 258/186 134/101 192/157 236/177 261/186
0.600 0.700
247/177 263/190 247/182 270/194
269/190 278/195
269/190 276/195
Footnotes: *1 -- These flow numbers come from Chevy High Performance Magazine Data. *2 -- These flow numbers come from Pace GM Parts. *3 -- These flow numbers come from misc. sources. *4 -- These flow numbers come from Edelbrock *5 -- These flow numbers come from Car Craft - Jan 2001 *6 -- From Paul Shufelt *7 -- From Chevy High Performance Feb. 2001 *8 -- From Trick Flow (Flow numbers) *9 -- From Edelbrock's Site *10 -- From Air Flow Research Site *11 -- From Jim Scottt *12 -- Chevy High Performance Feb. '04 -- Tested at Westech with SuperFlow 600 Flowbench @28-in H2O *13 -- Pro Topline Ltd.'s Internet Site
1 Wire Alternator Tech Page
One Wire Alternator Info

Thanks to Wayne Petty for most of this info.
If you have a 1 wire alternator in you street rod, custom or daily driver are you aware that parts for these are not stocked in most parts houses? I found this out last year when mine quit in Prescott, Arizona while I was on a trip and couldn't find the parts I needed in a town with over 10 parts houses. The 1 wire is basically a 3 wire GM alternator (Delco) with a selfenergizing voltage regulator. Herein lies the problem. Most parts houses don't stock the self-energizing voltage regulator. I would strongly recommend getting one and carrying it with you. They only cost about $6-$8 and take up almost no space. If you have one you can put it in a 3 wire alternator that you can buy almost anywhere and convert it into a 1 wire or if yours goes bad in your 1 wire alternator you can replace it. If you want to get the parts that will probably fix 90% of your problems then have your parts house order the following parts if they don't stock them.
For the following parts check: Transpo Electronics the d10se 12 will convert a 7127 alternator to a one wire alternator
http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/onewire.html (1 of 3) [4/12/2004 12:15:34 AM]
you might also change out the lower parts... as these are better... that what most rebuilders put in... I usually tell my customers to buy a cheap rebuilt 7127 and tear it apart and install the new componants.,.. d10se12 is a internal one wire regulator... dr5042 is a heavyduty rectifier bridge... d528 is a quality diode trio...
the d713L will convert your alternator to a one wire alternator... the D7014 will also convert your alternator.... but it uses a box that must be attached to the back of the alternator...the 713 just plugs in and stays there...
The Following are all ACE part numbers -- Salt Lake City warehouse (801) 972-3796 & (800)451-1396 -- Phoenix warehouse (602)272-3800 & (800)742-8400. The one to get if you only get one is the VR1770SE: VR1770SE (alternate part number is D10SE12)--Self energizing 14.1 volt regulator ($4 to $6). Works best with average battery. S1390--Diode Trios for most normal size Alts. ($2) S1375L--Rectifier Bridge with 200v 50 Amp diodes ($6 to $8) Second Choice for the volt regulator is: VR1786SE--Self energizing 14.8 to 15.3 volt regulator. If you run a Delco sealed top battery it will accept the higher voltage and you
headlights will be brighter, but may not last as long
If you get a 7127 10si alternator these are the parts that you will need to built it to a one wire alt.. ace VR1770SE voltage regulator (try to get the ace version ) ace S-1375L rectifier bridge long life. with 50amp @200volt diodes instead of 25A@100volters only a buck more . ace S-1390 diode trio the VR-1770SE regulators are self energizing and will control the alt light. by just hooking up the correct wire . I do recommend that you use 10 gauge or larger wire (10,8,6,4 gauge,) from the back of the alt to the battery..
I have all kinds of alternator books and starter books so I can give people parts info for hot rodding most alternators... one wire regulators are available for most alts.. even the new cs delco units.. these small delcos are hard to do anything too with out replacing many parts.... but if your bracket only fits a small gm alt it can be done... E-mail me at wayne@servsite.com with a description or the alt or starter and original app or numbers what ever you have..Wayne
Petty
Top Chop Page
Dream Truck Top Chop

From a 1950's Rod & Custom Article That was reprinted in Dec. '88 Rod & Custom This is what I used for instructions in chopping my GMC
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Top Chop Page
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Top Chop Page
Powertrain Guides
Driveshafts for Hydraulics: "Driveshaft surprises are part of every hydraulics project."
POWER TRAIN SET UP: "Having a little information at the beginning of your street rod project can make setting up power train angles one of the simplest steps in the building process."
DRIVE SHAFT ANGLES RE-VISITED: "Drive train set up continues to be a baffling and controversial subject."
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Powertrain Guides
OVERDRIVE VIBRATIONS: "If you already have or plan to install an overdrive transmission, there are a few things you should know."
UNEXPECTED RESULTS: "Anyone who has ever bolted a modified part on a car knows that some surprises can be expected."
HOME | The Critical Link | Driveshafts | Yokes | Bearings | Measure/Order | Set-Up Guide | Links Copyright 2002 Inland Empire Driveline Service, Inc. Web design and hosting by ULTIMATE Internet Access, Inc.
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Air check that switch, Page 4
This is dangerous, be careful!! Got compressed air?
Check the pressure switch "A" like this picture shows. Use 50 psi or less!! Some oil will come out of the little hole near the connector. Only a "squirt" will come out of a good switch. if you get a continous flow or lots of oil replace the switch. Hook an ohm meter to this swtich, it should zero out if you have a good connection.
Air check that switch, Page 4
Page 1 Page 2 Page 3 E-mail Transmission home page
700/4L60 lockup, page 2
Pay attention
Here is the modified & relocated wires attached as needed. Notice the double wire connector is now hooked onto the pressure switch "A" and the cut off wire at the case connector "B".
The silver switch is a GM part # is 8642473
Here is the case connector that you see on the outside. The front outer position is for "12 volts" , the rear outer position is where you would attach the ground wire through a switch to lock up the converter in 2nd or 3rd gears if you wish. You DO NOT need a ground wire here for 4th gear lockup. The pressure switch "A" inside is a self grounding switch.
Page 3 Page 1
Tranz page E-Mail
HVLP Spray Gun 2
- HVLP Spray Gun #43430 This information on the 43430 gun is from Douglas Cox. Thanks Doug and if anyone else has any information on this gun they would like to share please e-mail me. ................................
http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/HVLPspraygun-2.html (1 of 4) [4/12/2004 12:26:23 AM]
HVLP Spray Gun 2
I have used my 43430 2 or 3 times and it works GREAT (setup and used as per Sumner's instructions on the old gun -previous page). I needed to paint some old car parts and I used a thinned High Gloss Rustoliem@ paint. The mixture was not the same either time. That is, I just "eyeballed" the thinning. The air pressure was close, but again not exactly as before, after all these were just old car parts that needed painting. Well, the bottom line is that I was totally amazed each time I used the gun. Someone would really have to be out in left field to mess up a paint job using this gun !!!! I sprayed many, many parts and used very little paint. The coats went on smooth, even, and uniform. I only had one run and I knowingly did that to get paint behind a joint. I did not have any "orange peel" nor sags. Clean-up was a Snap....again I was surprised. I expected the paint cup to be stained black, but it looked like new after clean-up. I don't think they will ever be on sale again, but they are well worth the $65 they are selling for now. In regards to my air compressor, I am using about the same as you with a 20 gal. tank (mine is a 5 hp. single stage with a 60 gal tank--Sum). I know that Harbor Freight states that you need 9.5-14.8 CFM, but I am getting great results even with the compressor 'kicking in' a lot. So far the largest thing that I have painted is a car frame. With two coats, it was a full cup job, and still no runs, sags,
HVLP Spray Gun 2
drips or orange peel. ................................
As a side bar, I made a gun holder from several pieces of 1/4 inch plywood. Two pieces of plywood have a "U" shaped notch in them and fixed to a one foot piece of 1X6. The notches are about 1 inch wide and about 2 inches deep. The gun rest in the front piece of plywood which is taller of the two, just behind the nozzle and in front of the trigger. The second piece of plywood (shorter) also attaches to the 1X6 and the gun's lower finger guard/rest sets in it's notch. The gun is cradled in an upright position and filling the paint cup is very easy this way. ...............................
HVLP Spray Gun 2
I also installed a water filter and a 2 foot extension air hose at the gun end. I made a wire loop for the water filter that hooks to my belt. I am able to walk around, paint and ensure that I have dry air to the gun. Doug ..............Return To Previous Page.......................................Next
Page
Lock page 3? when will it end?
Pay Attention
Here is a picture of a "loop" you can do for lockup in 4th gear only "if" your wire setup is like shown here. Do not email me asking " how do I tell if my wires are like that?" Take the damn pan off and find out or try the wire looping. If you try it and it burns something up don't blame me for your stoopidity. When in doubt, take the pan off and look!
This setup MUST have a silver Normally Open pressure switch! The switch is a GM part # is 8642473
The loop connects the grounds needed. The wire that comes from nowhere is "12 volts" when the car is running.
Page 1 Page 2 Tranz page E-mail
Bowtie Overdrives
BTO Links Frequently Asked Questions Technical Articles
Technical Articles
Get answers to the most common questions about 700R4 transmissions, conversions and lockup.
Torque Converter Clutch Explanation We've written an in-depth article explaining the torque converter and it's functions as well as discussing the importance of lockup Vs non-lockup converters.
Lockup Wiring Take a look at our Wiring Made Ez systems for your overdrive. Get detailed instructions, diagrams and information about how lockup works, why you need it and why you cant trust a vacuum modulator.
Check Ball Locations [Valve Body] This section will show you the locations of the check balls in your valve body.
Check Ball Locations [Case Body] This section will show you the locations of the check balls in your case body.
Copyright 2000-2003 Bowtie Overdrives

700r4 2004r 4l80e converters crossmembers tv system tv cable cooling lines overdrive gm automatic torque converter transmission
http://www.700r4.com/tech/index.shtml [4/12/2004 12:33:48 AM]
Bowtie Overdrives
BTO Links
Main Page About Us Contact Us Online Catalog Customer Login Hot New Products 700R4 Transmissions 2004R Transmissions 4L80E Transmissions Extreme Duty Parts TV System Cooling Lines Electronic Ratio Adapter 2004R Speedometer Sleeve
Product: 2004R Speedometer Sleeve Price: $13.35 Since General Moters no longer has this part in their supply system, we were forced to design and manufacture our own. If you are in need of a new speedometer sleeve for a 2004R, we have you covered.
Product: Electronic Ratio Adapter Price: $145.00 Any change in a vehicle's tire size or rear axle ratio will cause the speedometer reading to be inaccurate. The Electronic Ratio Adapter (ERA) is designed to correct this problem. With the ERA, you simply hook up four wires, set the DIP switches according to the calibration table included with your order, and you are ready to go
Articles About BTO

Car Craft Street Roder Rod & Custom
Show Schedule
Pomona Swap Meet March 7th April 25th June 6th July 18th August 29th October 17th December 5th For all events we'll be located at Road 16, Space #'s 21, 23, 25 Hope to see you there! Cable X
http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/hot/ (1 of 3) [4/12/2004 12:34:42 AM]
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Wise Transmissions Hat Racing Race Street Rally
Product: Mechanical Speedometer to Electronic Speedometer Conversion Kit. Price: $293.99 The Cable X is an easy way to operate a mechanical speedometer without having to deal with long messy cables and the hours of downtime installing drive gears in a transmission. The Cable X is basically an adapter that will pick up the electronic speedometer signal and will operate the cable driven speedometer to the corresponding speed. The Cable X is accurate plus or minus 2% on most vehicle's OEM electronic speed signal.
Early Corvette Radiator
Product: 63-67 Corvette Radiator Price: $495.00 This modern highly efficient all aluminum radiator has a heat exchanger for automatic transmissions built into the exit side tank. This along with our Lines Made Ez makes connecting up a modern temperature control system for automatic transmissions a breeze.
Billet Servo
Product: Billet aluminum red 200R4 4th Gear Servo Price: $69.00 Custom billet 4th gear servo, 30% more holding power over the stock servo. Can normally be installed with the transmission in the vehicle.
Bowtie Overdrives
Product: Billet aluminum blue 700R4 4th Gear Servo Price: $49.00 Custom billet 4th gear servo, 30% more holding power over the stock servo. Can normally be installed with the transmission in the vehicle.

Bowtie Overdrives
Articles About BTO

Car Craft Street Rodder Rod & Custom
Installers Kit $67.00 Part #:INSTALLKIT Installation Tools - Sub categories
BTO Links Filters Catalog Sections

Installation Tools Filters Gauges Hot New Products 700R4 Transmission 2004R Transmission Speedometer Gears Shifters Nuts - Bolts - Screws Extreme-duty Components TCC Lock-up Flexplates Installation Tools Dipsticks Cooling Lines Inspection Covers TV Systems Torque Converter Crossmembers
Gauges
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Bowtie Overdrives
Show Schedule
Pomona Swap Meet April 25th June 6th July 18th August 29th October 17th December 5th For all events we'll be located at Road 16, Space #'s 21, 23, 25 Hope to see you there!
BTO Affiliates
Wise Transmissions Hat Racing Race Street Rally Copyright 2000-2003 Bowtie Overdrives
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Bowtie Overdrives
Articles About BTO

Car Craft Street Rodder Rod & Custom Speedometer Gears - Sub categories
2004R Gear Sets
700R4 Gear Sets
BTO Links
Catalog Sections
Speedometer Gears 2004R Gear Sets 700R4 Gear Sets Hot New Products 700R4 Transmission 2004R Transmission Speedometer Gears Shifters Nuts - Bolts - Screws Extreme-duty Components TCC Lock-up Flexplates Installation Tools Dipsticks Cooling Lines Inspection Covers TV Systems Torque Converter Crossmembers
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Bowtie Overdrives
Show Schedule
BTO Affiliates
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Bowtie Overdrives
Articles About BTO

Car Craft Street Rodder Rod & Custom Cooling Lines - Sub categories
700R4 Cooling Lines TH-350 Cooling Lines
2004R Cooling Lines TH-400 Cooling Lines
4L60E Cooling Lines Power Glide Cooling Lines
BTO Links
Catalog Sections
Cooling Lines 700R4 Cooling Lines 2004R Cooling Lines 4L60E Cooling Lines TH-350 Cooling Lines TH-400 Cooling Lines Power Glide Cooling Lines Hot New Products 700R4 Transmission 2004R Transmission Speedometer Gears Shifters Nuts - Bolts - Screws Extreme-duty Components TCC Lock-up Flexplates Installation Tools Dipsticks Cooling Lines Inspection Covers TV Systems Torque Converter Crossmembers
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Bowtie Overdrives
Show Schedule
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Throttle Valve Made Ez - Bowtie Overdrives
A typical 700R4/2004R installation costs between $1000 to $2500, requires many hours of labor, skinned knuckles and no small amount of thought, ingenuity and fabrication skills. We find a very large percentage of people who have installed these overdrives have no idea how they should behave or what they're actually capable of doing. With that thought in mind, let us offer you the following: ______________________
q q q q
Up shift at the appropriate time when using light throttle. Shift with a moderate firmness at light throttle. Shift firmness and delay should increase proportionally to the amount of throttle applied. Under specific conditions, all Th-700R4 and Th-2004R transmissions should perform the following downshifts: r Fourth gear to third gear r Fourth gear to second gear r Fourth gear to first gear r Third gear to second gear r Third gear to first gear They shouldn't shuttle back and forth from 4th (overdrive to third) while just trying to maintain the appropriate highway speed. Wide open Throttle upshift points should feel firm and occur at the correct RPM.
Most Hot Rodders have read a number of articles emphasizing how "critical" the set up of the TV cable system is to these nifty overdrive transmissions. The same articles offer little in the way of a reasonable solution concerning how to set up the TV system between a performance aftermarket carburetor and the transmission. These articles usually offer impossible to understand diagrams of how the TV system cable needs to be pulled or a procedure to try. However when they try the procedure the transmission doesn't behave the way they know it should. The results is most of these folks become so intimidated by this "mystery" system that they readily accept terrible transmission behavior because they fear ruining their new transmission by not getting it right! We at Bow Tie Overdrives have always felt these wonderful overdrive automatic transmissions should be the very centerpiece a high performance vehicle and not have their potential performance compromised in any way! This whole section of your web site is devoted to helping folks get these wonderful transmissions operating properly so they can enjoy their new overdrive transmission to its fullest! The subsequent sections will offer a comprehensive explanation of this complex system, simple tools and how to use them so you can maximize the performance of your Th-700R4 or Th-2004R with absolute confidence you will not do something to damage it in the process.
http://www.tvmadeez.com/ (1 of 2) [4/12/2004 12:35:53 AM]
Throttle Valve Made Ez - Bowtie Overdrives
If you would like more information on the TV If you are in the need for a solution to your behavior system it's self, check out our article entitled, "TV problems, check out our precisly engineered systems that we have available for most of the popular carurators System 101". This is a 3 part series covering many / fuel injection setups. topics.
http://www.tvmadeez.com/ (2 of 2) [4/12/2004 12:35:53 AM]
Bowtie Overdrives
Articles About BTO

Torque Converter Clutch Lockup Wiring

Our Wiring Made Ez kits offer an easy solution for re establishing the critical torque converter clutch lock up function in custom non computer controlled installations. Most vehicles that came from the factory with 700R4/2004R transmissions typically used a computer to control the 12v circuit that controls the engagement of the torque converter clutch. Torque converter clutch engagement is the only function controlled by a computer on Th-700R4 and Th-2004R transmissions. Using one of our wiring kits it completely eliminates the need to use a computer when installing one of these wonderful overdrive automatics into a non stock application. Our wiring kits provide automatic fourth gear only converter clutch lock up (engagement) and automatic unlock (disengagement) whenever the transmission is not in the overdrive (4th) gear position. Our optional manual switch control allows the converter clutch to also be engaged in second or third gears whenever the driver chooses by the simple activation of the on/off switch. Each of our kits can be installed in under an hour. Take a look at the descriptions below to see which kit you need.
q
BTO Links
Catalog Sections
TCC Lock-up 700R4 2004R Hot New Products 700R4 Transmission 2004R Transmission Speedometer Gears Shifters Nuts - Bolts - Screws Extreme-duty Components TCC Lock-up Flexplates Installation Tools Dipsticks Cooling Lines Inspection Covers TV Systems Torque Converter Crossmembers
Complete Relay style kit This is our most popular kit since it will work on any vehicle that has electric brake lights! This is a complete kit which includes both the internal and external wiring harness and all other necessary components to quickly and easily gain total control of this wonderful feature. This kit contains every item required to convert any computer controlled Th-700R4 to non computer control and gives you features not offered by factory set ups. When we say "everything included", that is exactly what we mean, everything you will need to get the required automatic lock up (engagement) the torque converter clutch whenever the transmission is in its four gear (overdrive) position. This kit will automatically unlock (disengage) the torque converter clutch anytime the transmission leaves fourth (overdrive) for any reason. "Everything", includes the necessary wiring, control relay, fuse protection, all required terminals and fuse adapters! This kit taps into your vehicles existing brake light circuit to disable converter clutch lock up whenever the brakes are applied. This built in safety feature prevents stalling the engine at highway speeds if you should skid the rear tires while in lock up! Click here to see our 'Complete relay style kit' for the 700R4 Click here to see the wiring instuctions for this kit. Click here to see our 'Complete relay style kit' for the 2004R Click here to see the wiring instructions for this kit.
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Show Schedule
External wiring only Relay style kit If the builder of your transmission has already provided the required 4th gear pressure switch and self grounding solenoid, you will simply need our external wiring harness to complete the set up. This kit includes everything necessary on the exterior of the transmission. This kit taps into your vehicles existing brake light circuit to disable converter clutch lock up whenever the brakes are applied. This built in safety feature prevents stalling the engine at highway speeds if you should skid the rear tires while in lock up! Click here to see our 'External relay style kit'
q
Complete GM Plunger Style Brake light switch kit If the vehicle you're installing the Th-700R4 or Th-2004R into is a General Motors vehicle that's already equipped with a factory plunger style brake light switch similar to the one shown here; our GM brake switch kit is simpler and easier to install than the universal Relay Style kit. You simply remove the existing brake light switch and install the one provided in our kit into the same bracket. Connect the simple single red wire circuit provided in this kit; through the new brake light switch to a keyed on 12 volts source and you're all set up!
BTO Affiliates
Click here to see our 'Brake relay style kit' for the 700R4 Click here to see our 'Brake relay style kit' for the 2004R Click here to see the wiring diagram for these two kits.
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Optional manual switch kit to allow for engaging the torque converter clutch in 2nd and 3rd gears in addition to the automatic overdrive feature. This kit can quickly be added to either the Relay Style kit or the GM Brake light switch kit. This inexpensive and easy to install switch allows the driver the ability to engage (lock up) the torque converter clutch whenever he/she chooses by simply activating the switch. This is a wonderful method of eliminating overheating the fluid inside the torque converter while towing in 2nd or 3rd gear. Engaging the torque converter completely eliminates work heat from developing inside the converter. Since this is the major source of heat input into the transmissions fluid, you can minimize the possibility of overheating your transmission. This is also a very important tool to control the extreme heat build up with high stall converters. Once engaged, the converter provides a direct mechanical drive to the transmissions input shaft, eliminating completely the converter as a heat source! Click here to see our 'Optional manual lockup kit' Click here to see the wiring instuctions for the relay manual lockup Click here to see the wiring instructions for the Plunger style manual lockup
TCC Lock-up - Sub categories
700R4
2004R
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Car Craft Street Rodder Rod & Custom Shifters - Sub categories
B&M Gennie
Shiftworks
Kugel Components
BTO Links
Catalog Sections
Shifters B&M Shiftworks Kugel Components Gennie Hot New Products 700R4 Transmission 2004R Transmission Speedometer Gears Shifters Nuts - Bolts - Screws Extreme-duty Components TCC Lock-up Flexplates Installation Tools Dipsticks Cooling Lines Inspection Covers TV Systems Torque Converter Crossmembers
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Car Craft Street Rodder Rod & Custom Crossmembers - Sub categories
700R4 Crossmembers
2004R Crossmembers
BTO Links
Catalog Sections
Crossmembers 700R4 Crossmembers 2004R Crossmembers Hot New Products 700R4 Transmission 2004R Transmission Speedometer Gears Shifters Nuts - Bolts - Screws Extreme-duty Components TCC Lock-up Flexplates Installation Tools Dipsticks Cooling Lines Inspection Covers TV Systems Torque Converter Crossmembers
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Car Craft Street Rodder Rod & Custom Torque Converter - Sub categories
700R4 Converters
2004R Converters
BTO Links
Catalog Sections
Torque Converter 700R4 Converters 2004R Converters Hot New Products 700R4 Transmission 2004R Transmission Speedometer Gears Shifters Nuts - Bolts - Screws Extreme-duty Components TCC Lock-up Flexplates Installation Tools Dipsticks Cooling Lines Inspection Covers TV Systems Torque Converter Crossmembers
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Main Page About Us Contact Us Online Catalog Customer Login Hot New Products 700R4 Transmissions 2004R Transmissions 4L80E Transmissions Extreme Duty Parts TV System Cooling Lines
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Customer Login
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We've been having server issues lately and bugs with the site, but all has been fixed New Vortec and King Demon TV Systems Available Due to unfortunate circumstances, all of our customer emails have been lost. If you have submitted an email recently and have not received a reply, please resubmit your query. Thank you. Copyright 2000-2004 Bowtie Overdrives
http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/ [4/12/2004 12:36:11 AM]
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Frequently Asked Questions
FAQ Can I run a Th-700R4 in my vehicle without a computer?
Can I do this kind of installation myself?
How difficult are the transmissions to install?
What is the T.V. cable?
What is a lock up torque converter?
How much horsepower can the Th-700R4 handle?
What rear end gear ratios work well?
http://www.700r4.com/faq/faq.shtml (1 of 2) [4/12/2004 12:36:53 AM]
Bowtie Overdrives
What kind of mileage increase should I expect?
Ive heard that the first gear ratio is lower then either the TH350 or TH-400. Is this true, and if so, what effects will this have on my car?

http://www.700r4.com/faq/faq.shtml (2 of 2) [4/12/2004 12:36:53 AM]
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BTO Links
Torque Converter Explaination
Converter Explaination
TCC Wiring
[Index] [Part 1] [Part 2] [Part 3] [Part 4] [Part 5] [Part 6]
Notice:
The following information and the opinions expressed here are directed at regularly driven street vehicles, not race cars! If you have a race only application, you certainly don't need a lock up converter, but you may wish one if you feel direct driving during a race would be beneficial. If you have a race car disguised as a street car, you definitely need a lock up converter!
http://www.700r4.com/tech/tc_article/index.shtml (1 of 2) [4/12/2004 12:37:18 AM]
Bowtie Overdrives
Let me state up front, we as a company, believe very strongly all street applications will benefit tremendously by using the lock up converter feature. In our opinion, a correctly understood and properly used lock up converter clutch offers tremendous benefits and has no downsides (other than possibly a small weight savings and some possible cost differences). Furthermore, we feel that not using a lock up converter has inherent negative effects that are undeniable and will lead to a shortened transmission life. These downsides are easy to demonstrate and will be explained in detail in the following sections. We have heard lots of arguments why a lock up converter shouldn't be used but never heard one that makes sense to us. There is a lot of companies that will tell people these clutch mechanisms are weak and prone to failure. We have been building and installing only Th-700R4 and Th-2004R transmissions for over seven years and consider these converter clutch mechanisms to be almost bullet proof if built and used correctly. If other sources don't have the same success with their converter clutches, maybe they should find the problem and correct it instead of advising their customers to eliminate one of the greatest features available in automatic transmissions since the development of the torque converter itself. The purpose of this technical write up is to help our customers understand what the torque converter "lock up" clutch function is, how it works and why it is so essential to the overall efficiency and longevity of these overdrives. This Torque Converter section of our web site is in seven parts. We have tried to set up this section to allow the visitor to access any single part listed below for clarification of only certain areas that they may not fully understand. Feel free to start with part one and go through this whole explanation from beginning to end. If you don't necessarily want an in depth understanding of this lock up system, just wish to purchase a system to control it, please feel free to go directly to the seventh part and just order the system you need. Our kits come with complete wiring instructions plus we have a step by step installation guide and schematics for on line viewing in part six. I would advise you to go to part 4 so you will at least understand why it's so important and how to properly use the system.
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Part 1 - Describes all the major torque converter components. Part 2 - Describes only the mechanical components used for converter clutch lock up.
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Part 3 - An explanation of the electrical and hydraulic control circuits. Part 4 - Describes why lock up is needed, how to control it and when it should be used. Part 5 - Describes the two complete electrical wiring methods we offer and how to choose the one right for your application. Part 6 - Step by step wiring installation instructions and schematic drawings. Click here for our wiring section * Purchase wiring kits * Installation instructions * Wiring diagrams

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Torque Converter Clutch Wiring
Installation
Relay style wiring kit

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TCC Wiring
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Purchase kit / More information Installation instructions Wiring diagram Installation instructions for towing option
Brake switch style wiring kit

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Purchase kit / More information Installation instructions Wiring diagram Installation instructions for towing option
Internal wiring kit 2004r Installation instructions 700R4 Installation instructions Wiring diagram
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http://www.700r4.com/tech/tcc/index.shtml [4/12/2004 12:37:52 AM]
Bowtie Overdrives
BTO Links
Technical Articles
Technical Articles

http://www.700r4.com/tech/checkballs/cseballloc.shtml [4/12/2004 12:38:22 AM]
Bowtie Overdrives
BTO Links
Technical Articles
Valve Body
Technical Articles Top-Left: Valve Body Top View. Shown in the two red circles are the locations for the check balls in the 700R4 transmissions.
Bottom-Left: Close up of the Valve Body. The red arrows are pointing to the check balls sitting in their proper locations.

http://www.700r4.com/tech/checkballs/chkballloc.shtml [4/12/2004 12:38:38 AM]
Drivetrain Tech
ATTENTION: These pages were created & copyrighted by Steve Parker. They reside here on MonteCarloSS.com only until we can contact Steve to get his site back up in operation.
Transmission Ratios
GM Transmission Ratios
TRANSMISSION 1ST 2ND 3RD 4TH 5TH Borg-Warner T-5 (GM Applications) 2.95 1.94 1.34 1.00 0.63 Borg-Warner T-5 (GM Close Ratio) 2.75 1.94 1.34 1.00 0.74 Borg-Warner T-10 2nd Design Borg-Warner T-10 2nd Design Borg-Warner T-10 2nd Design GM Muncie (M-21, M-22) GM Muncie (M-20) GM Powerglide GM Turbo Hydra-Matic 350 GM Turbo Hydra-Matic 400 GM Turbo Hydra-Matic 200-R4 GM Turbo Hydra-Matic 700-R4 2.64 1.61 1.23 1.00 n/a 2.88 1.74 1.33 1.00 n/a 3.44 2.28 1.46 1.00 n/a 2.20 1.64 1.28 1.00 n/a 2.52 1.88 1.46 1.00 n/a 1.76 1.00 n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a 2.52 1.52 1.00 n/a 2.48 1.48 1.00 n/a
2.74 1.57 1.00 0.67 n/a 3.06 1.62 1.00 0.70 n/a
Final Drive ratios

http://www.montecarloss.com/SSThunder/drivetrain.html (1 of 26) [4/12/2004 12:46:29 AM]
Drivetrain Tech
Using the 200 1st -> 10.22 2nd -> 5.85 3rd -> 3.73 4th -> 2.49 Using the 350 1st -> 8.61 2nd -> 5.19 3rd -> 3.42
Using the 700 1st -> 11.41 2nd -> 6.82 3rd -> 3.73 4th -> 2.68 Using the 400 1st -> 8.48 2nd -> 5.06 3rd -> 3.42
Final drive ratios for TH200R4 and TH700-4R with 3.73:1 gearing. Final drive ratios for TH350 and TH400 with 3.42:1 gearing.
TH200R4 rebuild info

These are modifications that I do to the TH200R4 when I Rebuild them. As I have stated before, I am NOT Art Carr or Mike Kurtz or Level 10 or ?.. Just a hobbyist who likes to do things himself whenever possible. Some people may disagree, some may not, but it is what has worked for me(so far). Some modifications are for VERY hard shifts and are not necessary for a mild rebuild(items are noted). Any other things that I have missed or people do different, I would like to know. Im always open for new ways, ideas and methods. One thing I must mention is that you need a shop manual and/or someone who is VERY familiar with these transmissions. For example, there are a lot of torrington bearings that MUST be installed a certain way (some not the way you would think the are to be installed) and clearances that MUST be set correctly or it will break (trust me I know...).
Disassembly. Pretty straightforward for disassembly. One thing to note is the input drum teeth to direct
clutch drum notches. Mark both drums as to their mating for reassembly (can be seen after dropping the pan). Remove everything from bottom of trans (filter, valvebody, wiring/TCC solenoid,governor/cover,1-2 accumulator housing/backing plate, separator plate, 3-4 accumulator and check balls). Remove front pump bolts. Although there is a special puller for removing the pump, I use a brass drift/hammer(lightly) on the exposed portion of the rear pump body. Same with removing the center support(exposed outer area of the support). For the low/reverse clutch housing, I use a piece of #6 solid copper wire bent in a "L" shape inserted between the output shaft and the housing. Turn wire to get it under the housing and pull it out(kinda crude but works for me....). As you disassemble the main drive pieces, assemble them back together(I use the converter, on the floor, hub up ,install pump and the rest of the main drive in the order that it came out of the case). Clean/inspect everything thoroughly one section at a time. Carb cleaner works great for removing all the clutch dust in the drums/housings and valves. Average about 6 large cans. Foamy Brite works good on the case/valvebody for removing grime and clutch dust(although if possible take the case to a machine shop and have it hot-tanked. Assemble with new clutches/bearings(if needed) and re-assemble outside case.
Drivetrain Tech
Inspection -Most of the problem spots are: 4th clutch is usually burned or hot spots on the steels/backing plate. Direct clutch and Forward clutch have same problem. Pump converter bushing worn/galled. Rear pump body grooved from pump rotor(requires replacement of pump assembly) Stator support splines chewed up/worn. Broken 1-2 accumulator spring. Sometimes 2nd gear band burned/pitted(from broken 1-2 accumulator spring). Rebuild kits/Shift kits This section I am biased on what to use. I use Art Carrs Super rebuild kit and Mike Kurtz/Art Carr shift kits. Although some people like the B&M shift kit, I personally dont like using the spacers for the accumulators. I would rather use a stiffer spring, but all three work well. Some of the modifications are from a Trans-go kit(front pump seal drain hole) but I have never installed one of these kits. A friend gave me the instructions from this kit and this is the only modification I use from them.
Re-assembly -Start with the front pump modifications. Once finished, you can install the pump upsidedown in the case and torque the bolts for the two pump halves. This will line the pump halves up(and will eliminate the requirement for a special tool). Front pump -A few modifications in this area. First drill the front seal area drain hole(angled passage viewed from the front of the pump with the seal removed)to a ¼". Drill the intersecting passage and mating passage in rear pump half to 5/16". This will help front seal drainback to the pan and will keep from blowing the front seal out. Re-assemble pump slide and pressure relief with stock springs. If on a budget re-use stock 7 vane pump(here comes the flaming responses...) although I use 10 vane pumps. They are not too expensive(around 55.00. I get them from a transmission warehouse). Main item here is the pump vane rings. Stock ones are cast and if the havent failed consider yourself fortunate. Install hardened steel pump vane rings. Remove stock stator support from rear pump body and install new hardened spline stator support. Replace existing pressure regulator valve/spring in rear pump body with new design valve/spring. I use Art Carrs valve although Mike Kutrzs is the same. Transmission Case- (not necessary for mild rebuild) The objective of most shift kits is to limit the travel of the accumulators either by stiffer springs or spacers(plus a few valvebody mods and pump operating pressures). In my personal cars, I eliminate the accumulators completely so that all the oil is directed to the clutches. Tap the passage that feeds the 3-4 accumulator with ¼-20 tap. Install a ¼-20x1/2" allen screw with red loctite in the passage to block it off. Perform the same modification to the 1-2 accumulator housing. The only accumulator left in the oil circuits is the 3rd accumulator which is needed to "push off" the 2nd gear band. Trans-go kit installs a .030" washer under the 3rd accumulator spring, but I have found no difference with or without it... I also change (if its not a Grand National trans) the servo cover, servo piston and 3rd accumulator to a Grand National servo setup. The piston is larger than other pistons and allows for more fluid area to apply the band for 2nd.(havent done one in a Monte Carlo yet. It may have the large cover/piston/accumulator already). All the other transmissions did not have these pieces. I also step up one size in the servo apply pin. These pins are identified by the number of rings on the pin tip that fits in the band. Trans-go kit installs a washer between the 3rd accumulator and the apply pin. I would rather use the next size apply pin. Be warned though, I have burned up the 2nd gear band because there was not enough clearance between the band and the direct drum. Its best to assemble the servo with the original apply pin. If the 1-2 shift is not "hard" enough for your taste, then you can change the pin in the car(although a cat converter makes it fun.....) Valve Body -Install the springs supplied with the shift kit your using. Most shim/change the line bias valve
Drivetrain Tech
spring so that it stays closed from exhaust. Some kits change the Throttle valve spring to a stiffer spring. Some kits remove the throttle valve modulator downshift spring. Some kits change the 2-3 valve shift spring. What-ever kit you use, install what the require. The separator plate mods are usually the same. Most drill the "RND4D3" orifice, 2nd oil feed(next to 1-2 shift valve check ball) and "RND4" orifice to 1/8" (shown in the factory or ASTG manual). Mike Kurtz also drills the 3rd clutch(direct) orifice and the throttle valve orifice to 1/8" also(which is what I use). Which ever kit you use, go with their instructions. Main drive/assembly in case -Now for the fun part. Although the special "J" tools make it easier, this method has worked for me. After new rear bushing/seals are installed, its time to install the main drive assembly. I use a new driveshaft yoke installed in the rear of the transmission. Install the rear output shaft into the case and into the yoke. Set the depth of the yoke in the rear of the trans so that the rear internal gear(on the output shaft)teeth are centered with the parking pawl. Tie off the yoke ends with a piece of bailing wire to the outside of the trans to secure it in place(I know...crude method but it works for me...) This will hold the output shaft/rear internal gear in the correct place for re-assembly of the lo/reverse clutch, rear carrier, clutch housing, input drum, front carrier, front internal gear and rear selective thrust washer and snap ring. Lo/reverse clutch- Original setup uses 6 clutches and 7 steels with 1 wave plate. New setup uses same amount. I install a new wave plate from GM (see part number listing). Also install a copper thrust washer on the back of the input drum(original is plastic except for GNs).Also if not already provided, install new roller thrust bearing in rear carrier roller clutch(see parts listing). Some rear carriers have a plastic thrust washer instead of a bearing- Get a bearing if you can- more durable. Assemble main drive to snap ring on output shaft. Remove yoke setup once snap ring is installed and check rear unit endplay. Set up dial indicator(I use an old brake drum and set the tail shaft in the center to allow the output shaft to hang freely) with clamp and set to "0". Pick up transmission and set down on output shaft. Read dial indicator(should be .004-.025". I try to set it at .006-.012"). If not within this clearance (usually is with original washer) then rear selective washer must be changed to bring clearance within tolerance. Forward clutch- This clutch is not too much of a problem spot although the housing/splined shaft is in higher horsepower applications. I have broken the shaft right out of the housing and broken the splines off the end of the shaft. When this happens you have NOTHING(forward or reverse). Last year I was talking to Mike Kurtz at the GS nationals. He was TIG welding the splines to the shaft but still suffered failures. He was experimenting with heat treating the spline/shaft. I dont know if he had success or not with it. For higher horsepower applications I install a new housing from GM and have not had a problem(so far....). Original setup uses 4 clutches, 3 steels, with 1 wave plate and 1 backing plate. New setup also uses same amount. I install a new backing plate from GM(backing plate is usually burned or hot spotted). See part number listing. Direct clutch- This clutch is usually burned and is a problem spot. Original setup uses 6 clutches and 6 steels with 1 backing plate. New setup was 7 clutches (now has gone to 8) 7 steels (also gone to 8 using Art Carrs super rebuild kit) and 1 backing plate. I install a new backing plate from GM(backing plate is usually burned or hot spotted). See part number listing. I also modify the retainer/spring assembly. Original retainer uses 16 springs for piston return. I remove 6 springs from the retainer so that the piston does not have to overcome so much spring pressure to apply. Setup retainer springs so that there are 3 springs (starting with the center of the three over the check ball in the piston) 2 removed, 2 installed, 1 removed, 3 installed 2
Drivetrain Tech
removed, 2 installed and 1 removed. I install a new backing plate from GM (backing plate is usually burned or hot spotted). See part number listing. Assemble forward clutch into direct clutch, lining teeth from input drum into direct clutch drum (indicator mark from disassembly). Install center support and bolt in place. Stand trans on end of output shaft. Install dial indicator on spline tip of forward clutch shaft and "0". Check front unit endplay - by pulling up on forward clutch shaft and read dial indicator ( I use a small pair of vise grips on the spline end to pull it up. They dont need to be SUPER tight (spline damage) just enough to pick it up) (BTW, I recommend that you wrap the shaft with something to save the splines but won't slipTom). Front unit endplay should be .022-.051" (I set at .026-.030"). If not within specifications, (this is the fun part...) you have to tear the main drive all the way down to the output shaft and change the front selective washer. Start with the original one and work from there. If you are a picky as I am you will do this 4-5 times to get the clearance you want (also helps to have all 15 front selective washers...). Fourth clutch- This is also where Art Carr has improved over stock. Install new shorter piston(supplied in rebuild kit). Install spring retainer and snap ring(I use one large screwdriver to push the spring retainer down and work the snap ring in the snap ring groove working in a circle). Original setup uses 2 clutches and 3 steels with 1 backing plate. I install a new backing plate from GM (backing plate is usually burned or hot spotted). See part number listing. Overrun clutch- Nothing special here. Original setup uses 2 clutches 2 steels 1 backing plate. New setup uses same amount. I install a new backing plate from GM (backing plate is usually burned or hot spotted). See part number listing. If a firmer torque converter clutch lock-up is desired, remove the check ball in the end of the input shaft. This allows the lock-up clutch to apply faster due to no restriction for exhaust of the oil (If you notice the check ball has a small hole the allows oil to pass by the check ball at a certain rate). Another warning, some converters have weak springs in the lock-up clutch and can break (although I have not had this problem, just passing it on...) from the fast apply of the clutch. Install pump without o-ring and gasket to check the overdrive unit endplay.(last one... finally....Are we having fun yet???). Stand up trans on end and set dial indicator to read tip of input shaft. Pull up (3 lbs of force...) till you "feel the snap ring on the end of the input shaft hit the bottom of the overrun carrier(I usually see about .024-.028") then "0 dial indicator. Pull up harder(20 Lbs...) and read clearance. Should be .004-.027" clearance(I set to .006-.012"). If not within specifications.. guess what...another selective washer to change. You have to tear down the maindrive all the way down to the rear output shaft...(Just kidding...). Just pull the pump and change the overdrive washer on the back of the stator support. I use petrolatum jelly to retain the washer to the back of the stator support to bring clearance within specifications. This clearance is VERY important!!! If set too loose the overrun carrier will thrust back into the overdrive internal gear and hammer the thrust bearing until it fails (Trust me...it will). Try the 3 lbs force/20 lbs force a couple of times till you get a feel for the snap ring hitting the overrun carrier and the overrun clearance. Bolt the front pump in with o-ring and gasket installed and new bolt washers and your done!!! (whew...) at least with the main drive.... Assemble valvebody and related parts(check balls installed per instructions (use petrolatum to hold in place), modified separator plate, accumulator housing, governor and cover, and wiring. Another trick is to JB weld the edges of the filter where the metal is crimped to the plastic. On hard acceleration, the oil goes to the back of the pan and the pump will suck air from the leaks at the front of the crimp on the filter. Also trash the little orange filter ring on the filter tube and use 2 o-rings. This offers a better seal around the filter
Drivetrain Tech
tube to the pump inlet. Thats It... Hopefully the rebuild box will be empty except for a few Teflon accumulator rings. When you open the rebuild box and look at all those rubber parts/seals and think "What the hell am I doing?" Its no too bad just TAKE YOUR TIME and READ the shop manual before and while your doing the rebuild. These transmissions are NOT for the novice!! If you have any questions or something is not clear you can E-mail me at alehosk@crosslink.net.
Tools Required- Press, Dial indicator with clamp and 8" adjustment rod, Drive shaft yoke, Snap ring
pliers, Brass drift Hammer (Ford wrench...) Screwdrivers, 10mm socket, 13mm socket, Torque wrench (3/8" preferred), Feeler gauges(I use a .008 gauge for a lip seal tool but lip seal tool is preferred) ,#27 Torx bit(stator support change), Misc. Sockets (seal drivers.. That ¾" drive set has to be used for something...) Drill (3/8 variable speed) ,and drill bits, Bushing drivers. Andy just e-mailed me, and let me know that some of the part numbers have changed, He's going to email the new numbers to me and I will post them... Meanwhile, your friendly (unfriendly?) GM dealer should be able to cross reference them.
Parts List Rebuild kit ,(Art Carr or Mike Kurtz) Shift kit, (Art Carr or Mike Kurtz) Pressure regulator
valve, (Art Carr or Mike Kurtz) Transmission drain plug(nows the time to install it) Hardened stator support (Art Carr or Mike Kurtz), 10 vane pump(optional) (Art Carr or Mike Kurtz) Hardened pump rings (TransGo ,Art Carr or Mike Kurtz) 2nd gear band (kevlar preferred, Art Carr or Mike Kurtz) if not use GM #8634919 Bearing(sun gear to internal gear), GM #8628962(if required) Bearing(Thrust Rear carrier to lo/reverse roller clutch) GM #8648389 (if plastic washer installed) Plate(lo/reverse clutch waved) GM #8633371 Washer(input drum to housing copper) GM #8626372 Bearing(front carrier to sun gear) GM #8633875(if required) Bearing(internal gear to carrier) GM #8628202(if required). Plate(forward clutch backing(6.31mm)) GM #8628088 Plate(forward clutch waved) GM #8628085 Plate(Direct clutch backing(4.50mm)) GM #8632570 Bearing(overdrive carrier to internal gear) GM #8634035 (if required) Bearing(overdrive carrier to sun gear thrust) GM #8634035 (if required) Plate(overrun clutch backing) GM #8634864 Plate(4th clutch backing) GM #8634866 Screen(pump solenoid) GM #8627509 Thanks to Art Carr, Mike Kurtz, Level 10, and TransGo for the painstaking research to cure the TH 200 R4's problems, and parting with their latest high tech fixes! Many tranny guys don't want to tell you anything unless you hand them a pile of cash...
Making the 200-4R "bullet-proof"

Updated by George Dumpit (4/97)
The TH700R4 is a stronger tranny, a disadvantage is slightly higher ratios for all gears (except 3rd of
Drivetrain Tech
course) I say "disadvantage" for those of us who want to get a little more gas mileage out of it. For full race, the 700R4 is an easy choice. Aftermarket 700r4's can be found for around $1550. The TH350's and TH400's are good trannys as well but the SS's love 4th gear. For more good info on building up the TH200-4R's, talk to a GN owner...
TH200-4R build-up parts list:

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Hardened stator support 10 vane pump Hardened chrome pump rings (stock are cast rings and break, another cause of failure) The newest re-designed pressure regulator valve (it's been re-designed about 4 times so far) Opening up the front pump seal drainback hole to at least 5/16" to keep from blowing the front seal out. The Kevlar band is a VERY good band so long as the band clearance is not too tight. Change the servo apply pin to a 3 ring or 0 ring (longest) pin to apply the band around the direct drum. GN servo cover, piston and 3rd accumulator piston. Add the extra clutches to the direct (3rd gear) and overdrive(4th) clutches as well as the hardened forward clutch housing shaft B&M Stage II shift kit (Transpak)
Proven neck snapping shifts good to roughly 450HP. (estimated) A higher stall converter along with a nice strong limited-slip rear is also recommended. Good u-joints are a must. Traction bars are a plus. :)
GM Throttle Valve (TV) Cable Adjustment

GM has a number of automatic transmissions that, instead of having a vacuum modulator to sense engine load, use a Throttle Valve Cable, attached to the throttle linkage. When the throttle is depressed, the cable is "pulled" progressively with throttle position. In addition to providing forced downshifts (kickdown), and progressively later (higher speed) upshifts at higher throttle settings, the throttle valve also adjusts main line pressure in the transmission. Operating a transmission with the TV cable out of adjustment, can, not only produce early, or late upshifts, but incorrect line pressure, as well. What this means, in simple terms, is that TV pressure that is too low, will produce main line pressure that is also too low, and will eventually "burn" the transmission clutches.
Drivetrain Tech
Before a transmission is test driven (after installation) a preliminary adjustment must be made, and then "fine tuned" during the test drive. Adjust the cable so that it will be pulled all the way, when the throttle is simultaneously opened all of the way (with the engine turned off, of course). Make sure that the cable returns (with no binding) when the throttle is released. This preliminary adjustment will frequently be too "high", and the throttle pressure will have to be reduced, to attain proper shift points. I prefer to start with an adjustment that is "too high", and then work down, rather than "too low" and work up.
How to adjust your Throttle Cable

To raise throttle pressure (raise shift points, and makes "kickdown" more responsive) move the cable housing towards the firewall (away from the throttle linkage), as you simultaneously depress the 'D' shaped button on the cable housing. Move the cable housing adjustment a small amount at a time (one "click"); a small adjustment can often make a world of difference. Naturally, to lower the pressure (lower shift points, and make "kickdown" less sensitive) move the cable housing towards the throttle linkage.
200-4R vs. 700-R4

From: Jim Dobravec (jim@yoda.sscl.uwo.ca) For those who are still debating between the 200-R4 and 700R4.... there is an article in the March 1995 Hot Rod issue where they do a tranny comparo between the two. They basically asked the "experts" at Art Carr and TCI about the two trannys. Some of the highlights were: 200-4R comes with a universal bolt pattern bellhousing (fits Chev Buick Olds Pontiac engines) - 700-R4 is a Chev only pattern. - 200-4R offers full-throttle upshift into overdrive, while only the 91 and later Corvette 700-R4s offer this feature. - a few years ago GM ghanged the 700-R4 designation to 4L60 same tranny except 4L60-E is computer controlled. - Most tranny companies agree that the early 700-R4s had some durability problems and must be highly modified to make good performance engines.(didn't say what the mods are) - the early 82-84 700-R4 units had a smaller 27-slpine input shaft and should be avoided. the 85-87 700-R4s can be upgraded but both companies recommended starting with an 88-93 700-R4 - as for the 200-4R, the best are the ones used in the turbo Buick T-Types and Grand Nationals, but any of the 86-88 gearboxes are good cores. - Art Carr claims both are equally durable and both can handle up to 600 lbs-ft of torque and around 700hp (not stock I'm sure!!) - Art Carr has been adapting the 200-4R for use in automatic equipped Mustangs. (sounds like putting chevy engines into a Ford again :) ) Bottom Line: both TCI and Art Carr also agree that HOW you use the tranny is a big factor in selecting the correct performance automatic. If blasting 9's on the dragsrip is your plan of attack a performance built Turbo 400 or powerglide is the best choice. Both the 200-4R and the 700-R4 will live on the dragstrip behind some pretty powerful engines. However keep in mind the quicker the car runs the more abuse the tranny has to endure, which in turn will reduce its life expectancy. --- From: J Gray (jgray01@mail.state.mo.us) I know this subject has already been discussed, but as I was digging though my old HOT ROD magazines and I found this interesting article "THE GREAT DEBATE (700-R4 vs. 200-R4) Which is the Better Overdrive? "HOT ROD MARCH 1995" Here are a few highlights that I copyed straight for the
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article. All 200-R4s offer full-throttle upshifts into overdrive while only the '91 and later Corvette 700-R4s offer this feature. The early '82-'84 700-R4s units had a smaller, 27-spline input shaft and should be avoided. The '85-'87 700-R4s can be upgraded, but most companies recommend starting with an '88-'93 700R4. These transmissions offer a number of advantages that enhance durability. The best 200-R4s are between '86-88. While the 700-R4 offers the deepest first-grear ratio, this does not necessarily make it the best choice. Note that the 700-R4's first-to-second-gear drop is far greater than the 200-R4's. This will hurt acceleration. 1st 2nd 3rd 4th 200-R4 2.74 1.57 1.00 .67 700-R4 3.06 1.62 1.00 .70 "The key is that the 200-R4 is as durable as the 700-R4"
700R4 Overhaul Tips

Introduction
The 700r4 (or 4L60 as it is now called) is a fully automatic 4-speed transmission with a lock-up torque converter. It was first introduced in 1982, and came mainly in the General Motors pick-up truck line. Later, the transmission started showing up in almost all of the rear-wheel drive automobiles in the Chevrolet and GMC line, until 1993 when it was discontinued (The 4L60E and the 4L80E replaced the 4L60). During the 11 years of production, there have been a multitude of changes; Some worked . . . and some didn't, but overall, the transmission has become a reliable gearbox after overhaul, as long as the proper "updates" have been made, and a little care is taken. In the early days of the 4L60 transmission (back when they called it the 700r4), there were LOTS of week points. The technicians hated them. The backyard mechanics hated them. People were putting TH350's and 400's in place of the 700r4. It seemed that every one that was overhauled, came right back....blown up.(Not every one, but it sure seemed that way!) Actually, the TH350 was that way when it first came out; The HEI ignition system (GM electronic ignition) was that way too; people were putting Powerglides in the place of the "unreliable 350's"; They took out the HEI, and put "point-style ignition" in it's place; And lots of backyard mechanics have been known to disable the self-adjusters on drum brakes, claiming that they , too, are unreliable. Well, now, as with all the other examples, we have learned what works....and what doesn't, and are able to build a 700r4 that is reliable.
Overhaul Tips
I have been overhauling 700's for about 10 years now, and during that time I have learned alot. (Why do I always have to learn the hard way?) I now overhaul, on the average, about two a week (that's average; some weeks more and some weeks less.) I picked up some "tricks" along the way, and have found this unit to be both, a reliable and a desireable transmission after a few modifications. As with all the other late-model generation of transmissions, this trans must be clean and care must be taken during inspection and assembly. Follow torque specifications closely.
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There are basically 3 major versions of the 700r4. From '82 until '84 there was a small-input-shaft unit with the same spline as the 200c transmission. It took an RPM part# C-21 (gas) or C-37 (diesel) torque converter*. Make sure not to use the later torque converter. It will install just fine, but the vehicle will not move when you are finished! From '85 to '87 there was a large input shaft version, which has the same spline as a 350 trans. It takes an RPM part # C-40 (gas) and a C-39 (diesel) torque converter*. The early torque converter ('82-'84) will not install, so there is no danger of using the early torque converter on the large shaft. From '87 1/2 up, the large shaft is still used, but GM incorporated an auxilary valve body to cushion engagement into drive. There are some interchange problems that arise. There have been many changes to the 700r4 trans since it's first production. Obviously, input shafts (and the drums that connect to them) are different. Reverse input drums come in three different varietys ('82-early '87, which has a square oil orifice, and a steel piston, '87'92, which has a smaller round oil orifice, and an aluminum piston, and '93, which has an aluminum piston and a larger square orifice (similar to the early drum). Pump stator supports, and their respective pump halves have changed through the years. There are, as you may have guessed, small shaft, large shaft, and '87 1/2 up auxilary valve body versions. There is an early ('82 to '84) sprag assembly that has gold thrust washers, and uses the plastic washer between it and the front planet; And the later version of the sprag assembly, that has silver thrust washers and Does not use the plastic washer between it and the front planet....put a washer there and you will eliminate all thrust end-clearance, and the unit will fry (I told you, I have to learn everything the hard way....Oh well, at least this way, I never forget this detail!). Always replace the valve body separater plate with the same code stamped on the plate. Watch the checkball location. Different years take different locations. Prior to '87 1/2, there are (5) 1/4" check balls in the case and (3) 1/4" check balls in the valve body. Later years take (4) and in rare cases (5) in the case and (2) in the valve body and (1) in the auxilary valve body. During overhaul, I grind two flat spots on the Pressure regulater valve (GM has an updated valve which essentially does the same thing), and I replace the TV Boost valve with GM part #8634940. Replace the check ball capsule (GM# 8634400)in the case (the one that extends into the servo area). I remove it by threading a 3/8 coarse long bolt into the capsule, and "slide hammering" it out. Install using an old PR valve, and align the holes in the capsule with the opening in the servo area. I also remove the check ball that is in the capsule at the rear of the case (the one that feeds the low/reverse piston) on later units that have the ball (the early units don't have the ball). I drill four holes in the separater plate; 3/4 release hole to .078", 2nd band apply to .110", 2/3 apply to .110" and T.V. balance hole to .055". Also, make sure that the gaskets do not cover the hole in separater plate.(see photo). I install GM part # (8642970) lock-up valve on the early
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transmissions that don't have computer controlled lockup circuits, shortening the spring by one coil with a set of side cutters for the gas rigs, and installing the valve with the spring unaltered for the diesels. I put washers between the TV plunger and the TV valve spring to effectively make the spring longer (one washer for the gas rigs and two washers for the diesels). Put new iron vane rings (RPM #54222A) in the pump assembly (the early ones were prone to breakage). Loctite the pump seal with red #271 Loctite. Check to make sure that the rear ringgear is the updated GM version that comes as standard equipment on (I think) '85 and newer (it will have 3 lines stamped in the side of the park teeth). If not, replace with GM part # 8667055. Replace the early accumulator pistons (again I'm only guessing) '85 and older, with later pistons with rubber rings rather than teflon. On '87 and later models, I discard the 3/4 release springs and drill the 3/4 release hole in the separater plate (see photo). I install solid type teflon rings on the input shaft with a special tool (RPM # J29569). Set up the end clearance (.005-.036); The #70 selective washer seems to work 80% of the time. On the 6 cylinder versions (S10 and camaro) I replace the 3/4 apply "fingers" in the aluminum drum with the V8 version, which is lower, allowing one more clutch and steel than the original. In addition, on the 6 cylinders, I remove the aluminum plate and top overrun steel plate from the forward clutch line-up and replace with a V8 version apply pressure plate, allowing one more forward clutch and steel plate. On the same application, I replace the reverse input piston with a V8 version, which is shorter, and will accept one more clutch and steel. On the later ('87 1/2 up) reverse input drum pistons (the later drum comes with an aluminum piston.), I reduce the size of the bleed-off orifice in the piston by installing Fitzall part#77761C cup plug. On the earlier ('82-'84) 700's, I also replace the 1-2 shift valve spring with one that is a little stiffer (the gil-younger shift kit has the right spring); the early versions shifted into 2nd gear way too early. 90% of the time I replace the governor gear; they are always worn out. This transmission is equipped with a lockup torque converter; Make sure that it is working
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correctly on the test drive; If not, fix it.....don't ignore it, unless you like working on the same transmission, over, and over, and over and........... Check the sungear shell, carefully, for cracks around the splined area; They break occasionally. (If it seems that I am jumping around alot, I'm sorry, I am doing this all from memory as I go.) Well that's all there is to it. I may have left something out, but I will update if I think of something else. Let me know if you have a "trick" that is not listed here. I will have the pictures up as soon as I take them (Now what the heck did I do with my Poloroid?) * There are other part #'s, as well, but these are the most common
TH700R4 conversion tips

Installing a 700 in a "non-700" application, is not too difficult, and is even easier if the vehicle is GM made and happens to already have an automatic transmission. It is impossible for me to include every detail that you may need to know for your intended project, but the following details apply to most installations. I have installed 700's in many different types of vehicles, ranging from a '34 Ford Coupe, '40 Ford pickup, numerous 50's Chevy pickups, and my own '57 Studebaker 2dr wagon, to late model Camaros, GM two, and four-wheel drives, and plenty of other applications, and have used these following suggestions, repeatedly, to produce what I think is a "sanitary" installation. Keep in mind, as you perform a conversion of any type, what your overall goals are. I am reminded of a story about a person that wanted to improve his Jeep truck (he loved to fourwheel), by installing a V8 in place of the original 6 cylinder engine. Nearing completion of the conversion, he noticed that the front driveshaft would not easily fit in it's original location; It was interfering with the engine oil pan, so he left the front drive line out, and can no-longer go fourwheeling! Some improvement!! Generally, what I want, in any type of conversion, is to IMPROVE the vehicle. I also happen to have great respect for the engineers that originally designed the vehicle. For the most part, they did a great job designing the vehicle, making the vehicle safe, reliable, and delivering satisfactory performance, for most normal applications, and it would seem to me, to be arrogant, on my part, to think that I can, so easily, improve on what a team of engineers, and plenty of research and development funds were able to do. With this in mind, do your conversion meticulously;
q
Make cooler lines out of New 5/16" (in most cases) steel line, and bend the lines carefully (with a tube bender), and double flare the ends. Don't use copper line, or fuel hose! Use a new, factory type transmission mount, and make a crossmember (if your installation requires it) that is as close to factory style, as possible. q Make sure the TV cable is in good condition, and use the factory TV cable brackets (at the
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carburetor), as well as a factory TV hookup on the Carburetor. Make sure that it is adjusted properly. q Use an original type dipstick tube, and matching stick. If you don't have the original "stuff", buy a new tube and stick at your local GM dealer. q Use a torque converter cover. If you don't have one, go out and buy one, again, at the dealer. q Use a factory type manual control linkage, and hook it up, and adjust it properly. q Install new U-joints....good ones. I prefer Spicer....And make the driveshaft the proper length; don't settle for a driveshaft that is "good enough for a test drive, and I will have one made later...." q Make sure that the flywheel is not bent, and the teeth are in good shape. q Don't install a shift kit in any 700R4. (This is my own "gut felt recommendation"; some people like to use shift kits in 700's) q Make sure the wiring to the TCC(Torque Converter Clutch) circuit is properly done, and verify that the torque converter does lock-up properly during the test drive. q Install new torque converter bolts, and use #242 locktite on the threads (the threads are 10mm X 1.5, don't use the standard 3/8-16 bolts that may have been in your previous transmission's torque converter) q Make sure the dowels, in the engine block, extend into the transmission case adequately, and that the engine block mating surface is clean. q Take pride in your installation One question that I am frequently asked: How long is the 700?, and did they make one that would fit a Buick, Pontiac, Olds (B.P.O.), Cadillac? The 700 is approximately the same length as a "medium shaft" 350 (6" long tail housing), which came as standard equipment in many GM trucks in the '70's, which is about 3" longer than the common "short shaft" 350 that came in many GM Cars, and trucks, and the output shaft on the 700 is the same spline as the 350, as well as the 200 transmission, and the yokes are interchangeable, making for an easy installation in most GM vehicles. The 700 is only available in the Chevrolet version, and I do not recommend the "adapter plate" that converts the chevy to the B.P.O. bolt pattern.
Wiring the TCC(Torque Converter Clutch) controls

There are two main controls governing TCC application. First, there are hydraulic controls, that control lockup timing, and application, and Second, there are electrical devices that control, and override the hydraulic controls. The electrical controls include, a lock-up solenoid, pressure switches, low-vacuum switch, and a brakecancel switch. The following is my recommendations for wiring the lockup circuit in an earlier conversion.
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I recommend running an accessory hot wire (hot only when the key is on), through a normally open brake cancel switch. This switch will allow current flow, only when it is depressed; The brake pedal depresses the switch, normally, and releases the switch when the brake is applied. This switch works exactly opposite the brake light switch, whereas the brake light switch allows current, only when the brake pedal is depressed, the cancel switch interrupts current when the brake pedal is depressed, thereby unlocking the torque converter clutch in a panic stop. From the brake cancel switch, power is routed through the low-vacuum switch (GM part#14014519 interrupting power when the vacuum is low, such as heavy throttle), and connected to the transmission. Inside the transmission, I normally route power through a 4/3 switch (GM part# 8642346 normally closed), and then to the solenoid. I use an internally grounded solenoid (GM part#8654123), so there is no need to run a separate ground circuit. There are other ways to accomplish the same thing, but I feel this is the easiest way to do it RIGHT!!
Torque Converter Clutch Schematic

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Here's how I interpret the circuit:

q q q q
(Upper left)Ckt 39-pink/black wire goes to from +12V (Gauges fuse) to switch on brake pedal Ckt 420-Purple goes from brake switch to hot side of TCC Solenoid Ckt 422-Tan/Black from gnd side of TCC Solenoid to ECM and pin F of ALDL connector In addition, a 4th gear switch and overtemp sensor inside the transmission provide a ground to force a lockup if in 4th gear and trany fluid temp is over 260F
TCC Disable switch HOW-2 Locate the the switch near the top of the brake pedal arm. It should have a pink/black wire and a purple wire connected to the switch. Follow the Purple wire and select a good place to splice a (12v) switch into it. When this switch is in the "off" condition the TCC will not engange at all. TCC Engaged light HOW-2 Connect a (12v) light between pin "F" on your ALDL connector and the purple wire running from the Brake pedal switch.
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TCC Forced Engage switch HOW-2 This one is easy, connect a switch between pins "A" and "F" on your ALDL conector.
If you would like all three options wired then you can do the following: First you need to find the correct switch. You want a LIGHTED DPDT switch with a center "off" position rated at 12v 3a These are tough to find! The one I used was an automotive type switch that came with a small mounting bezel. 1. Cut the purple wire from the brake switch and connect the switch end of the purple wire (B) to terminal #3 2. Connect the other end of the purple wire (A) to terminal #1 and place a jumper wire from terminal #1 to terminal #5 3. Connect a wire from terminal #4 to pin "F" on the ALDL connector 4. Connect a wire from terminal #6 to pin "A" on the ALDL connector 5. My switch lamp was connected to terminal #3 and terminal #4. If you use an LED #3 is positive, #4 is neg. In Operation when the switch is "Up" TCC engagement is normal. When the switch is in the center "OFF" position the TCC is DISENGAGED When the switch is "Down" the TCC is FORCED ENGAGED The light comes on whenever TCC is engaged, forced or not.
Planetary Gearsets
Planetary gearsets have been in use since the earliest automatic transmissions. Planetary gearsets are made up of three components, constantly in mesh; A sungear, A planetary carrier and planets, and a ring-gear. When one gear is held stationary, and another gear is rotated, the third is driven at either a reduction , or an increase in speed, or a rotation in the opposite direction. Today's automatic transmissions are actually using "compound planetary gearsets" because they are basically two planetary sets that have common parts.
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Typical 3 speed transmissions, use two ringgears, two planetary carriers, and a common sungear (all one piece, but long enough to mesh with both planetary carriers.) By changing which gears are rotated, and which gears are "held", we get two different gear reductions (1st gear, and 2nd gear) a reverse, "gear" and a 1:1 ratio (third gear). Devices, known as clutches, and bands, and one-way clutches (sprags or roller clutches) are what does the "holding". One-way clutches, hold in only one direction, and freewheel in the other, like the freewheel on ratchet wrench. These sprags allow the planetary gear to be held under acceleration, but to freewheel under deceleration. Let's use a typical 3 speed automatic transmission(A TH400, TH350, etc.) to illustrate what happens as the trans goes through the gears. First, as the transmission is shifted into drive, the forward clutch engages, and the low one-way clutch holds; You have 1st gear. To shift into second gear, the front, or intermediate band is applied; the forward clutch is still engaged (to move forward), and the one-way clutch freewheels, giving you second gear. When shifting to third gear, the direct clutch engages and the band is released, the forward clutch is engaged, and the one-way clutch is still freewheeling, giving us third gear. For reverse, the forward clutch is disengaged, but the direct clutch is engaged and the reverse band is applied. These clutches and bands are used to "hold" the different components of the compound planetary gearset, allowing different combinations of gears.
Controlling Shift Quality

In automatic transmissions, the Governor, Shift Valves, and Vacuum Modulator, work in unison to select the proper gear. In light throttle conditions, very little hydraulic pressure is needed to apply the bands and clutches. As load increases, higher hydraulic pressure is needed to apply the bands and clutches to change gears. Automatic transmissions monitor engine load with a TV valve or modulator to get information for shift timing. The valve body uses this information to adjust the hydraulic pressure, to compensate for varying engine loads. The pressure regulator valve has a spring "pushing" on one end of the valve, and hydraulic pressure "pushing" on the other end of the valve. When the hydraulic pressure is high enough to overcome the spring pressure, the valve moves, and bleeds off the excess pressure. The Throttle Pressure Valve, or modulator, helps the pressure regulator valve, by varying fluid pressure depending on engine load. This pressure coming from the modulator, is directed to the pressure regulator valve, and helps the spring "push" on the valve. This makes the spring seem stiffer, hydraulic pressure must be higher, to overcome the increased pressure, caused by both the spring and the throttle pressure helping the spring, before the valve can bleed off the excess pressure. In this way, hydraulic pressure increases with engine load. By the way, this hydraulic pressure is commonly referred to as "Main Line Pressure", and it varies, from transmission to transmission, but tends to be around
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50 or 60 PSI at an idle, in neutral, and may go as high as 250 PSI under certain highload conditions. This accounts for some of the shift-quality-improving characteristics of a modern automatic transmission. There are other ways, commonly used in conjunction with main line pressure "altering", to improve shift quality. One way, is to provide a restriction, in line, to "slow down" the application of the friction components. The fluid must pass through a small hole,or orifice, before applying the friction component, similar to "pinching" a garden hose, to slow water flow, thereby filling a bucket with water more slowly. To further cushion the shift, engineers often incorporate Accumulators. An accumulator can be, as simple as a piston with a spring on one side. When a shift is commanded, hydraulic pressure is routed through an orifice and into a chamber, acting on one side of the piston (the side of the piston, opposite the spring). This hydraulic pressure "pushes" on the piston, compressing the spring (on the other side of the piston), and "absorbing" some of the hydraulic pressure that is also acting on the friction component needed to create the desired gear change. This acts to "slow" down the application of the friction component, and smooth the application, and make the gear change less harsh.
Torque Converter Clutch Application

The clutch in a lockup torque converter is quite a bit different from any "typical" clutch seen in other applications. It is made up of a spring steel, with clutch lining on the outer diameter of one face, that mates with a corresponding "flat spot" on the inside of the torque converter housing. The torque converter housing is directly bolted to the engine flexplate (some people call it the flywheel), so it is obvious that the converter housing turns at exactly engine speed. The spring steel clutch is splined to input shaft (it is actually splined to the turbine, which is then splined to the input shaft), so it is also obvious that the clutch turns at exactly turbine, or transmission input shaft speed. Fluid enters the torque converter through the input shaft, where it is "dumped" in behind the spring steel clutch, inbetween the clutch, and the converter cover, creating a highpressure area behind the clutch, forcing the clutch to spring away from the converter cover, and keeping the converter "unlocked". Fluid then enters the rest of the converter, leaking past the "gap" between the clutch, and the cover and does its normal job within the "pump", "turbine", and "stator", before exiting through the hub, and on to the cooler passage.
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When conditions are right for a "lockup" to occur, fluid is reversed, by the lockup valve; Fluid enters the converter through the hub area, does it's job within the "pump", "turbine", and "stator", and creates a high pressure area on the opposite side of the clutch, forcing the clutch against the converter cover. The clutch material "grabs" the converter cover; The clutch, which is splined to the input shaft, becomes "one" with the converter cover, allowing no slippage between the two; ....or lockup.
Setting Up a Differential Ring & Pinion

Intro
Setting up a differential is probably one of the most under-rated jobs that a mechanic can tackle. I have seen many mechanics "slap new bearings in" or "throw a new gear-set in" a rearend, and then take it to our shop to let one of our technicians "set it up" so it won't make noise. "Setting up" a rearend, involves so much more than merely replacing parts, and installing them without any regard to the tolerances that the "parts" must be held to. Proper setup requires patience, cleanliness, and attention to detail.
Some Terms Relating to Differentials

Ring & Pinion gears
The driveshaft is connected to and drives the pinion gear, which in-turn drives the ring gear at a reduced rate and at a 90 degree angle from the driveshaft. The ring gear is basically connected to the wheels.
Backlash
This is the term used to describe the "clearance" between the ring & pinion gears and is usually measured in thousandths-of-an-inch by a dial indicator. Example .008-.012"
Drive / Coast
The drive side of the ring gear is the side of the tooth that is contacted when the vehicle is accelerating / The coast side is the side of the tooth on the ring gear that is contacted when the vehicle is decelerating (during engine-braking).
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Pattern
This refers to the tooth contact area of the gearset; In other words, Where the Ring gear and the Pinion gear "Rub" together.
Preload
The Pinion bearings and Carrier bearings run a little tight, similar to the way a wheel bearing should be "loaded". The tapered bearings are adjusted to eliminate any play and then they are set a little tighter, making them a little "hard to turn". This is measured by checking the torque required to turn the bearings with a dial torque wrench. Example 15 to 25 in.lbs.
Pinion Depth
This is set with "pinion shims" and controls how the pinion contacts the ring gear in relation to the axle center.
Crush Sleeve
A piece of "pipe" that is used to hold the pinion bearings apart and offer some resistance for the pinion nut. The pinion nut must be tightened down, crushing the crush sleeve, until proper pinion preload adjustment is achieved.
Extra Tools Needed For Proper Differential Overhaul

Dial Indicator q Ft.Lb. Torque Wrench q Dial In.Lb. Torque Wrench (0-50 In. Lb. or so) Pullers and/or Press for removing and installing pinion and differential bearings q Spanner Wrench (for many drop-out carriers) q Compressed Air, and 1/2" Impact wrench is helpful
q
Differential Overhaul
Before removing the differential carrier from the housing, a pattern must be taken if the original gearset is to be used over again, to determine how the gearset contact has been running. This is accomplished by painting
Drivetrain Tech
a number of teeth on the ringgear (both the drive and the coast side) with a nondrying paint compound such as Persian blue or regular artist's paint in a tube (that's what I use). Then have a friend "load" the carrier by prying between the differential carrier and the rearend housing, making the pinion yoke hard to turn. Then turn the pinion yoke with a ratchet slowly and evenly, first in one direction and then the other, through the painted area of the ringgear. This will show you where the gear teeth are touching each other. The gearset will "wear" a pattern that may or may not be serviceable. A desirable pattern will be at the same height (or distance from the Toe) on both the drive and the coast side, and slightly closer to the Toe than the Heal side (see photo). If the gearset shows a pattern tending towards the "desirable pattern", the gearset may be reinstalled, but the original pattern must be adhered to; minor changes may be made to pinion depth and/or backlash to enhance the pattern, but only as long as the final pattern has plenty of contact surface. If the gears are determined to reusable, check backlash with a dial indicator and note the reading. Consult the manual for your application and compare with recommended specifications. Mark the position of the differential bearing caps with a center punch or letter stamp set to insure proper location and orientation during reassembly. Remove the differential carrier from the housing (it may be a tight fit due to carrier bearing preload). Note the position of any shims and their location. Remove the pinion nut (a 1/2" impact wrench is real handy for this, although I have heard of people making a tool to hold the pinion yoke, but keep in mind that the pinion nut will install with roughly 200 or 250 ft. lbs. of torque), and tap the pinion out of the housing (protect the threads on the pinion; they can be easily ruined). Remove the pinion bearing races from the rear-end housing. Remove the carrier bearings from the differential carrier and the pinion bearings from the pinion gear. Inspect the rear-end housing closely in the area where the pinion bearing races are pressed in and where the differential bearing races are "clamped in" by the bearing caps. Are there any signs of the races spinning or fitting loose? How about on the bearing caps? Check the differential carrier and the pinion gear for signs of loose fitting bearings or spinning bearings. If the rear-end housing does not check out, a replacement should be found or the housing may be repaired by a reputable shop such as Lincoln Welding in Sacramento. If the carrier of the pinion gear are found to be damaged, a replacement should be found. Install the bearing races into housing with any applicable pinion shim/s, but make sure that there are no burrs in the housing that might hold the bearing races up off of the bottom of the machined bore (sometimes burrs are made when removing the old races). Install the bearings onto the differential carrier, and again, check for burrs on the carrier that might keep the bearing from being driven all the way on. If the ringgear was removed, check for burrs on both mating surfaces where the ringgear contacts the differential carrier (I always run a flat wetstone over both surfaces to remove any burrs) and reinstall the ringgear. Torque the ringgear bolts to specification (you need a manual here; try the library, or e-mail me and I will try to find out the specifications for your particular application.), and while your at it put some Loctite 271(RED) or 242(BLUE) on the bolts just to make sure. Install the pinion bearing on the pinion gear and don't forget any applicable pinion shim/s. Install the pinion gear temporarily with the old crush sleeve (tap on the side of the crush sleeve while it is on the pinion gear to make it "longer" or "uncrushed"). Put some motor oil or gear oil on the bearings. Install the outer pinion bearing and the pinion yoke (don't install the new pinion seal at this time). Put some motor oil on the pinion nut and tighten down until a preload of the proper specification is achieved (I stay on the
Drivetrain Tech
loose side of the specifications. i.e. 15-25 inch pound spec. , I use 15). Install the differential carrier (it should also be preloaded to specification, so it will have to be tapped in), and torque the bearing caps to specifications. Check the backlash and adjust to specification if necessary. Remember how you pattern checked the gears when you first started? Well, now you get to do it again. If your pattern comes out "desirable", you're almost done. If not, consult the picture for what changes to make to your setup; Make those changes and reinstall and pattern check, and consult the picture for what changes to make to your setup; Make those changes and reinstall and pattern check, and consult the picture for what changes to make . . . . well you get the idea. You have to have patience. Keep at it until you are satisfied; This is the place where most people fall short of proper setup, and blame the gear noise on a "noisy set of gears". If the pattern looks good, than there wont be any excessive noise. Note that all gears make an acceptable amount of noise; Rearends, Transmissions and Engines all make noise; It is up to the rubber engine, transmission, spring, and body mounts to insulate those noises from the passengers . . . so don't overlook these items when chasing excessive noises. After you are satisfied with the pattern, disassemble the rearend and install a new crush sleeve, and reassemble (don't forget the new pinion seal). Reinstall the old pinion nut with motor oil and tighten until all play is eliminated in the pinion gear (but not preloaded yet). Remove the pinion nut and clean threads on pinion gear and new pinion nut with carburetor cleaner, and install nut with Loctite 271(red) or 242(blue) and tighten down until proper pinion preload is obtained. Install the differential carrier, and torque the differential bearing caps (it wouldn't hurt to install Loctite on the cap bolts). Pattern check one last time (hopefully), to make sure that you reinstalled everything properly, check backlash one last time; If within specification, your done with the setup. Install the axles, tap the rear cover surface flat (if yours has one). Now, if your cover is a heavy duty one with stiffening ribs, reinstall with a gasket painted with "brush-on" Aviation Permatex and snug cover bolts moderately. Otherwise, if your cover is flimsy (or worse . . . a cheap chrome one), install with no gasket and use Permatex Ultra-Black. If you insist on using regular silicone glue with a gasket (Lord knows why), install bath-tubs, or caulking around household windows, and let somebody else work on your car!
Transmissions/Converters
Transmission- The TH400 and 4L80E are the most durable, followed by the TH350, TH700R4 and TH2004R. With a primarily street car with 500 hp or less (including any nitrous use) I recommend the 700 R4 with overdrive and using a lockup converter. A TH200-4R can also be used but I would say it's safety limit is roughly 425hp with a good rebuild as described below. Art Carr says that a high tech rebuilt 200-4R can take 625 hp. This will give you a comfortable RPM on the highway with plenty of gear for a standing start. A TH350 can also be used up to 450 hp, but no overdrive. A TH350c is a TH350 which is actually a little stronger and has a lockup converter for gas mileage on the highway. The main advantage is that the TH350
Drivetrain Tech
is lighter in both recriprocating mass and overall weight and consequently will give you a little quicker time in the drags. Many of the NHRA Stock Eliminator drivers use a TH350 over the TH400 when they can. The TH400 is virtually unbreakable but weighs right up there with a ton of bricks. For heavy cars, lots of power, and nitrous use this is the way to go. The TH400's spinoff, the 4LE80-E (WAY heavier that a TH 400- 250+ lbs with converter) is overdriven and has a lockup converter, and is strong as hell but is costly and must have a computer to run it. A TH400 can be converted to "switch pitch" which is a torque converter that has two different stall speeds depending on the position of the switch. Very streetable, but max stall speed available for a switch pitch converter is about 3200 rpm's in high stall mode. If you need more, get used to a lot of slippage as your only choice is an inefficient 10 inch or smaller converter on the street. The parts for this cost about $150 plus converter and are available through Darryl Young. The parts needed are the torque converter, the front pump, and the input shaft. Average cost with converter- all performance rebuilt-if you pay to have it done You can do a LOT better if you do the work yourself. TH400 - $450 + $200 for 11 in. converter-add $150 for the switch pitch conversion TH350 - $550 + $200 for 11 in. converter ($250 for 12 in.lockup) TH700R4 and TH200-4R - $1100 + $150-350 for 12 inch lockup converter, $550 for 9 in. lockup converter 4LE80-E - $2500 (with computer preprogrammed, wiring harness) (what Art Carr sell's 'em for) + $250-550 for a custom converter. (with this tranny either the GM diesel controller or the Motec engine control computer is needed, plus whatever deal you can find pricewise on the tranny in the junkyard. These trannys don't need any high tech rebuild like all the other automatics to be run with 4-600 hp without exploding). More than this, a good rebuild would be highly recommended... Newsflash! I just got off the phone with Mr. Gasket and they told me that the ACCEL (aka) Hurst transmission controller has been discontinued. I was planning to do this swap myself with the Hurst controller, but it is no more... I don't know who has chips for the GM diesel controller, but I'll find out and let you know, or if any of you know please e-mail me. (a non performance rebuilt price varies widely based on core charge and the fact that most tranny shops start tacking on lots of bills when they hear the word overdrive.) Rebuilding transmissions- better to have a large amount of quality tools- a dial indicator, feeler gauges, a pump puller (this you can make) an inch-pounds torque wrench, and an infinite amount of patience. But it can be done at home. I recommend that you acquire a good transmission manual (the ATSG is a good one). There are good books on rebuilding that go beyond the factory manual available for the TH400 and TH350 that go deeper in depth in explaning how the rebuild is done. Also, these books detail some hopups for harder, faster shifts and increased reliability. Art Carr, TCI, Level 10, and B&M are good sources for hopup parts. Usually,a local tranny shop is usually willing to help you find parts, such as a pump assembly or shims, saving much time and money over the factory. Try to go when thay aren't busy, and be patient!
Drivetrain Tech
Another good gamble is to purchase complete trannys straight out of the core pile at your friendly local junkyard. You can get lucky and end up with the parts you need for as little as $20-30. Strength improvements- On the TH 400, the intermediate sprag is the weak link in the transmission, failing at about 500! hp. The sprag is about $50-60 and usually requires an early (64-70) drum. I have only seen those fail when a 4000+ rpm converter and a trans brake is used with slicks. On the TH700R4 and TH200-4R, the stock pump vanes are brittle and easily break under load. A pump kit is available that upgrades the vanes to better material and should include a new pump slide spring and if your stock pump is only a 7 vane unit, you should upgrade to a 10 vane unit. This helps the tranny live by providing a steadier flow of fluid under pressure. Furthermore, on the TH200-4R, the stock converter spline support is too soft and will eventually fail, even in a stock application. Art Carr has a rebuild kit for the TH200-4R that increases the clutch pack count and should be considered mandatory in a performance application. Art also sells the converter spline support that is made of tougher heat treated steel that will not wear like the stock one. In the TH350, the main weak point is the intermediate sprag race, which often bites the big one even in a stock tranny, especially one that is manually shifted often. Converting an old Chevy to overdrive- Not as hard as you might think. TH200-4R's are about the same length as a TH350, so with a TH400 crossmember and a little relocation they fit like a glove. Use the original TH350 or TH400 driveshaft with a TH350 yoke, you may need a special u-joint with smaller cups that is made by Lakewood for rear axle swaps. The TH200-4R mount is farther towards the rear of the car than a TH400. If you have a TH350 or the old Super Turbine 300 2-speed that you want to dump, most older Chevys had a TH400 option at one time where you can get the crossmember from and you will be on your way (Camaros/Firebirds). Or, on the 67-72 A bodies the stock frame is drilled in different places so just slide the crossmember back and drill new holes . The driveshaft may be a little short, check before driving (1/2 inch difference or less). With the TH700R4's, it's a little more complicated. The driveshaft will be too long in any case, and needs to be shortened. The trans mount is closer to the front of the car than a TH400 and the crossmember will have to be moved forward and possibly the mounting pad on the crossmember cut off and rewelded to mount facing forward rather than the back (as is the case with 67-9 Firebirds with the TH400 option.) Also, since every TH700R4 The TH350 and TH400 use a vacuum modulator for part throttle shift timing and quality regulation, where the TH 200- 4R and TH700R4 use a TV cable. This cable is very critical- if it is not adjusted right or you don't use one at all, the trans will last about 30 miles before it blows up. TCI sells a bracket and cable which works well, but is pricey. A stock cable can be adapted, but the correct angle and pull distance must be maintained or the tranny will fail. When shopping in the junkyard for a core, remember that newer is better in case of the overdrive trannies. With TH200-4R's the years to look for are 86-89, and with TH700R4's the years are 88-91. Also, the horsepower rating that the tranny was originally built for matters- the higher the HP rating, the better the tranny. For a indicator dial that shows OD, order a 85-88 Monte Carlo SS indicator- It will fit most Chevy consoles with a little trimming.
Transmission Length
Powerglide (short tail) Case to ext. housing 15 ¼ Overall length 24 ¼ Bellhousing to mount 19 ½
Drivetrain Tech
Powerglide (long tail) THM 200, 200C (the 3 speed) THM 250 THM 350, 350C (short tail) THM 350, 350C (long tail) THM 400 (short tail) THM 400 (long tail) 200R4 700R4, 4L60, 4L60E 4L80-E
15 ¼ 27 5/8 21 5/8 21 5/8 21 5/8 24 3/8 24 3/8 27 ¾ 23 3/8 ?
27 ½ 27 5/8 27 5/8 27 5/8 30 5/8 28 ¼ 34 27 ¾ 30 ¾ 31.5
20 ½ 20 1/8 20 3/8 20 3/8 20 3/8 26 ¾ 28 26 7/8 22 3/8 30.38
TH200-4R notes of interest

q q q
TCI; they say most TH200-4R failures are input shaft, front planetary hub, cast iron splines. T200 is one piece case, no separate tail shaft housing, big "boat" pan CC Sep 95 says stock TH200-4R good for about 275 ft-lb slightly modified versions can take 350370 ft-lb Art Carr says- TH200-4R's are good to 625 hp, Pat at Level 10 says TH200-4R's are good through the 10's, faster needs the TH 400.
The rubber mount bolts are M10x1.5 speedo cable interchanges with TH350, but some factory applications have a 1 ft. longer extension cable cable shifter bracket is GM 10026014 convertor bolts are M10x1.5 x 15mm use the TH700R4 filter (with the pickup on the bottom of the filter) and two O-rings on the neck of the filter as the filter is prone to drawing air on a hard launch. The filter is a tight fit, you have to snug the bolts in the pan to get it to fit correctly. This problem only seems to be apparent on higher HP cars. Mike Kurtz recommends using O2 sensor safe rtv, and running a bead around the crimp of the filter as this crimp sometimes leaks where the metal crimps around the plastic... Mike also recommends running the tranny 1 pint over full.. not enough to foam, but enough to keep the filter submerged. Mike said the danger of the TH700R4 filter is if the clearance between the opening and the pan bottom is too small... IE: the ridges are smaller on some brands of filters... then the trans self destructs due to total loss of fluid pressure. And the filter plugs up faster as sediment doesnt sit on the bottom of the pan and now gets sucked into the filter..
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Transmission Identification & Decoding

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Transmission Identification & Decoding

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