Frommer's BudapestDayByDayJun2009

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Budapest
BY
day day
1st Edition
by Robert Smyth
A John Wiley and Sons, Ltd, Publication
Contents
15 Favorite Moments 1 The Best Full-Day Tours
The Best in One Day 6 The Best in Two Days 12 The Best in Three Days 16
1 5
2 The Best Special-Interest Tours

The Best Art Nouveau 22 The Best Baths 26 Turkish Traces 30 The Best Coffee Houses 34 Budapest with Kids 38 Revolutionary Budapest 40 Communist BudapestBehind the Iron Curtain 44
21
3 The Best Neighborhood Walks

Belvros 50 The Jewish Quarter 54 The Watertown (Vzivros) The Castle District 60
49
58
4 The Best Shopping
65
71
Shopping Best Bets 66 Budapest Shopping A to Z City Park 82 Buda Hills 86 Margaret Island
5 The Best of the Outdoors
81
88
6 The Best Dining
91
98
Dining Best Bets 92 Budapest Dining A to Z
7 The Best Nightlife
109
116
Nightlife Best Bets 110 Budapest Nightlife A to Z
8 The Best Arts & Entertainment

Arts & Entertainment Best Bets 126 Arts & Entertainment A to Z 130
125
9 The Best Lodging
135
140
Lodging Best Bets 136 Budapest Lodging A to Z
10 The Best Day Trips & Excursions 145

The Danube Bend 146 A Wine Country Detour 148 Lake Balaton 152 Pcs 154 Eger 156
The Savvy Traveler
159
Before You Go 160 Getting There 163 Getting Around 163 Fast Facts 164 Budapest: A Brief History 168 Useful Phrases & Menu Terms 169 Toll-free Numbers and Websites 173
Index
174
Copyright 2009 John Wiley & Sons Ltd, The Atrium, Southern Gate, Chichester, West Sussex PO19 8SQ, England Telephone (+44) 1243 779777 Email (for orders and customer service enquiries): cs-books@wiley.co.uk. Visit our Home Page on www.wiley.com All Rights Reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except under the terms of the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988 or under the terms of a licence issued by the Copyright Licensing Agency Ltd, Saffron House, 6-10 Kirby Street, London EC1N 8TS, UK, without the permission in writing of the Publisher. Requests to the Publisher should be addressed to the Permissions Department, John Wiley & Sons Ltd, The Atrium, Southern Gate, Chichester, West Sussex PO19 8SQ, England, or emailed to permreq@wiley.co.uk, or faxed to (+44) 1243 770620. Designations used by companies to distinguish their products are often claimed as trademarks. All brand names and product names used in this book are trade names, service marks, trademarks or registered trademarks of their respective owners. The Publisher is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. This publication is designed to provide accurate and authoritative information in regard to the subject matter covered. It is sold on the understanding that the Publisher is not engaged in rendering professional services. If professional advice or other expert assistance is required, the services of a competent professional should be sought. UK Publisher: Sally Smith Executive Project Editor: Daniel Mersey Commissioning Editor: Fiona Quinn Development Editor: Karen Fitzpatrick Content Editor: Erica Peters Cartography: SY Cartographics Photo Research: Jill Emeny Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic books. British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library ISBN: 978-0-470-69758-0 Typeset by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services Printed and bound in China by RR Donnelley 54321
A Note from the Editorial Director

Organizing your time. Thats what this guide is all about. Other guides give you long lists of things to see and do and then expect you to fit the pieces together. The Day by Day guides are different. These guides tell you the best of everything, and then they show you how to see it in the smartest, most time-efficient way. Our authors have designed detailed itineraries organized by time, neighborhood, or special interest. And each tour comes with a bulleted map that takes you from stop to stop. Hoping to tour the best in Habsburg and art nouveau szecesszio architecture as well as see what traces the communists and Turks left behind? Looking to taste your way through Budapests burgeoning restaurant scene, sample Hungarys fine wines and hang out at the citys hippest nightspots? Whatever your interest or schedule, the Day by Days give you the smartest routes to follow. Not only do we take you to the top attractions, hotels, and restaurants, but we also help you access those special moments that locals get to experiencethose finds that turn tourists into travelers. The Day by Days are also your top choice if youre looking for one complete guide for all your travel needs. The best hotels and restaurants for every budget, the greatest shopping values, the wildest nightlifeits all here. Why should you trust our judgment? Because our authors personally visit each place they write about. Theyre an independent lot who say what they think and would never include places they wouldnt recommend to their best friends. Theyre also open to suggestions from readers. If youd like to contact them, please send your comments our way at feedback@frommers.com, and well pass them on. Enjoy your Day by Day guidethe most helpful travel companion you can buy. And have the trip of a lifetime. Warm regards,
Kelly Regan, Editorial Director Frommers Travel Guides
About the Author

Robert Smyth is a Budapest-based British journalist who hails from the River Mersey directly across from Liverpool. He has been living in Budapest for around 15 years during which time hes seen certain aspects of the city change beyond recognition, but can still find enough old world and quirky charm to keep him there. He holds a degree in Economics from the UK, which he followed up with an MBA at Budapests former Karl Marx University only to find that writing holds more appeal than the world of business. He has written print and online guides respectively for the Blue Guides and Whatsonwhen; he also writes columns on wine tasting for the local Englishlanguage press and is Business New Europes correspondent for Hungary. When not writing about traveling or wine, he likes to travel and taste wine.
Acknowledgments
For my partner gnes Molnr, our son Alex, my mother Sylvia and late father Robert Snr. Id like to give a big thanks to the Molnr family for their ongoing support throughout, photographer Bianca Otero and the Frommers UK editorial team, the former with whom it was a pleasure to work with once again and the latter for the first time. Many thanks to all of you who have accompanied me on the great adventure that has been Budapest during the last 15 years. From drinking with me in the dingiest of wine bars to devouring goose liver in the finest restaurants, youre too many to mention but you know who you are.
An Additional Note
Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time and this is especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings.
Star Ratings, Icons & Abbreviations

Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a starrating system. Hotels, restaurants, attractions, shopping, and nightlife are rated on a scale of zero stars (recommended) to three stars (exceptional). In addition to the star-rating system, we also use a icon to point out the best bets for families. Within each tour, we recommend cafes, bars or restaurants where you can take a break. Each of these stops appears in a shaded box marked with a coffee cupshaped bullet .
The following abbreviations are used for credit cards: AE American Express DISC Discover DC Diners Club MC MasterCard
V Visa
Frommers.com
Now that you have this guidebook to help you plan a great trip, visit our website at www.frommers.com for additional travel information on more than 4,000 destinations. We update features regularly to give you instant access to the most current trip-planning information available. At Frommers.com, youll find scoops on the best airfares, lodging rates, and car rental bargains. You can even book your travel online through our reliable travel booking partners. Other popular features include:
A Note on Prices
In the Take a Break and Best Bets sections of this book, we have used a system of dollar signs to show a range of costs for 1 night in a hotel (the price of a double-occupancy room) or the cost of an entree (main meal) at a restaurant. Use the following table to decipher the dollar signs: Cost $ $$ $$$ $$$$ $$$$$ Hotels under $100 $100$200 $200$300 $300$400 over $400 Restaurants under $10 $10$20 $20$30 $30$40 over $40
An Invitation to the Reader

In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful placeshotels, restaurants, shops, and more. Were sure youll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommendation, wed love to know that, too. Please write to: Frommers Budapest, Day by Day, 1st Edition Wiley Publishing, Inc. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774
15 Favorite Moments
15 Favorite Moments
15 Favorite Moments
SZPVLGYI H 13 T
1 2 3 4 5 6
Great Market Hall Gyul Baba utca Szchenyi Baths Budapests Thermal Baths View of Pest from Buda Palace View from Margaret Island Buda Palace Ruds Baths Statue Park Budapests Kert Garden Bars Opera House Museum Kvehz Sziget Festival (Hajgyrisziget) Castle District Jewish District
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15 Favorite Moments
udapest is a destination packed with impressive sights, including myriad buildings from the last great expansion phase of the Habsburg Empire, but many of my favorite moments are spent exploring the nooks and crannies that lie between the great edifices. From bathing in atmospheric thermal baths, drinking unique wines in funky bars in disused townhouse courtyards to exploring the citys Communist past, Budapest has many magic moments to savor.
1 Great Market Hall. I never get bored of taking the number 2 tram winding past Parliament, impressive waterfront buildings and down the river with the Castle District and Gellrt Hill directly opposite on the way to buy Hungaricums at the Great Market Hall. See p 17. 2 Gyl Baba utca. Being transported back to Turkish Budapest when climbing up the steep and narrow Gyul Baba utca, named after the dervish who brought the rose to Buda. Pay your respects at his tomb.
See p 31.
4 Relaxing in the waters at any one of Budapests classic thermal baths, switching between steaming hot and ice-cold pools, sauna, and steam and feeling as good as new. Its the ideal way to clear the cobwebs of the citys nightlife excesses. See p 26. 5 View of Pest from Buda Palace. Gazing down in amazement at buzzing Pest from the relative tranquilitydepending on how many tourists are accompanying youof the Buda Palace across the river. Its best in the morning as the city rolls into work opposite or lit up at night when the city folk start to play. See p 61. 6 Standing in the middle of the River Danube on Margaret Island and looking downstream to
3 Szchenyi Baths. Taking continental Europes oldest underground that shunts under swish Andrssy t then soaking up the atmosphere at the neo-Baroque Szchenyi baths.
See p 13 & 27.
Relaxing in the neo-Baroque Szchenyi baths.
15 Favorite Moments
9 Contemplating the pillars of Communist society that once imposed themselves across the city but are now confined to the Statue Park, part of the Memento Park. I find the replica of Stalins boots, left behind when his statue was torn down at Felvonulsi tr (Hungarys answer to Red Square), particularly significant. See p 46. 0 Budapests Kert Garden Bars. Feeling downright decadent and very glad to live in Hungary after the winter is all but a memoryat one of the citys Kert Garden summer bars. See p 121. ! Drinking bubbly on the balcony of the Opera House during a break after marveling at the plush surroundings and wondering how the main chandelier can possibly stay up. See p 8. @ The tranquility of dawn and the power of the citys fin-de-sicle architecture from the terrace of the Museum Kvehz after a long night out. There I love having one last Unicum and some pastry as the city starts to wake up. # Sipping a beer while taking a ferry down the Danube to rock till I drop at the Sziget Festival, and then hopping back on the ferry well after sunrise. See p 161. $ Exploring the old cobbled narrow streets of the Castle District between Tncsics Mihly utca and Tth rpd stny that are off the beaten track. See p 60. % Feeling the buzz and ambience of the Jewish District, which despite having seen a lot of adversity is still hanging on as buildings are bulldozed all around. See p 54.
The plush surroundings at the Opera House.
Parliament on one side and the Castle District on the other. Great for taking time out from the bustling city and enjoying a bit of green relief. See p 88.
7 Buda Palace. For a touch of

refined hedonism, I enjoy mingling with the countrys leading wine makers and drinking their fine wines in the splendor of Budas Royal Palacethe best way to enjoy the castle. See p 61.
8 Basking in the central pool at the Rudas Baths with the sunlight beaming in through the cupola. See p 27.
The Best Full-Day Tours

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The Best in One Day
ere, Im taking you on an action-packed tour that will leave you in awe of Budapests architectural magnificence and magnitude. Particularly noteworthy is the architecture of the late 19th and early 20th centuries, when Hungary had finally found peace and prosperity. START: Take the M1 Millennium Underground to
Hsk tere.
1 = Heroes Square (Hsk tere). Theres no better

place to start getting your head around the turbulent history of Hungary than Heroes Square. The key protagonists are strikingly introduced as a series of imposing statues. The central column is guarded by the seven Magyar tribe leaders who, in 896AD, stormed into the Carpathian basin, comprising present-day Hungary and beyond. A statue of rpd leads these seven heathen horsemen, and they appear to be kept in check by Archangel Gabriel, who presides over them from the top of the central column. The founding fathers are flanked by heroes including Szent (Saint) Istvn, who converted Hungary to Christianity on Christmas Day in the year 1000AD, and all-conquering Kings Bla IV and Mtys Corvinus, as well as perennial thorns in Habsburg Austrias side like Rkczi and
Kossuth. Built in 1896 to celebrate a millennium of Magyar presence, nowadays Heroes Square is a popular place with skateboardersoblivious to the significance of their countrys heroesand with rightwingers who use it as a backdrop for rallies. @ 30 min. Hsk tere at
crossing of Andrssy t and Dzsa Gyrgy t. Metro: M1 to Hsk tere.
2 = Millennium Underground. Take a ride on continental

Europes oldest metro, which opened in 1896 to coincide with the 1,000th anniversary of Magyar presence in Hungary. Get on at the Hsk tere stop and be whisked, just under street level, directly down the elegant Andrssy t (boulevard) which I recommend you walk down on Day 2 (p 14, bullet 4). Get off at Oktogon to see one of Budapests several centers where Andrssy t meets the Nagy krt (the Great
The central column in Heroes Square is guarded by seven Magyar tribe leaders.

Take a ride on continental Europes oldest metro.
Boulevard), or stay on one more stop to Opera. After Londons underground system, this is the next oldest in the world and the stations in particular retain the fin-de-sicle feel. @ 15 min. Entrance at end of
Andrssy t at crossing of Andrssy t and Dzsa Gyrgy t; on righthand side of Andrssy t if looking from Heroes Square. First metro 4:36am, last 11:20pm. www.bkv.hu/ metro/metro1.html. Single journey ticket Ft 270. Metro: M1 to Hsk tere.
The Opera House.
3 Opera House. The Mikls Ybl-designed Opera House provides the sumptuous veneer to classy Andrssy t. If you can, I suggest you look now but come back and experience the Opera House in all its glory by catching a performance. Be warned that the supersteep cheap seats are not for sufferers of vertigo. The neo-Renaissance style of the exterior is all semi-circular arches and columns, and is symmetrically topped off by statues of idols of Hungarian opera, while statues of the two Hungarian musical greats, Liszt and Bartok, flank the main entrance. Step inside and the style changes dramatically to neo-classical with the walls and ceiling adorned by lavish works from leading Hungarian artists of the day, including Gyula Benczr and Bertalan Szkely. Exclusive Hungarian participation was deemed crucial in establishing the home of Hungarian opera, although the scary but magnificent-looking goldplated, three-tonne chandelier was imported from Germany. @ 15 min,
45 min if you take the tour, but check ahead as tours may be cancelled due to rehearsals. Andrssy t 22.
The Best in One Day
y 153-0170 for tickets, 332-8197 for tours. www.opera.hu. Ft 2,600 (discount Ft 1,400). Tours at 3pm and 4pm daily, performances vary. Metro: M1 to Opera.
4 Callas. This, the former

ticket office of the neighboring Opera, which can be viewed through the large arched windows, has been superbly spruced up by the noted British designer David Collins in an engaging blend of finde-sicle and Art Deco. While Callas is a serious dining venue with a decent sushi bar, it also does great Hungarian and international breakfasts, homemade pastries and cakes, as well as sandwiches.
Andrssy t 20. y 1/354-0954. $$.
5 St. Stephens Basilica.

Building this Budapest landmark proved a job too far for defining Hungarian architects Jzsef Hild and Mikls Ybl, who both died during the prolonged 54-year construction. The project literally hit rock bottom when the dome collapsed in 1868, a year
St. Stephens Basilica.
after Hilds death. Architect Jzsef Kauser was called in and dragged Budapests biggest church over the finishing line in 1905. A massive restoration project was completed in 2003 and the gleaming marble is the result of the application of 200kg of beeswax. Mathematically minded Hungarians love dealing in numbers and, like the Parliaments dome, Szent Istvns stands 96m/315ft high, as a tribute to the Magyar settlement of Hungary in 896. Had they arrived a few years earlier, perhaps the roof wouldnt have fallen in! The almost 1,000-year-old withered hand of St. Stephen, Hungarys first King, is displayed in the Szent Jobb Chapel. Another great Hungarian hero Ferenc Pusks, the talisman of the Magical Magyars and Real Madrid goal machine, was laid to rest here in 2006. An elevator is on hand to whisk you up to near the top for sweeping views of Buda and Pest. @ 1 hr.
Szent Istvn tr 33. y 1/317-2859. www.basilica.hu. Free Admission to Basilica, tower Ft 500, Treasury Ft 400. MonFri 9am5pm, SatSun 10am4pm. Metro: M1 to BajcsyZsilinszky t. M3 to Arany Jnos utca.
10

The dome in architect Imre Steindls Paliament.
6 Parliament. Architect Imre Steindls mostly neo-Gothic extravaganza dominates Pests waterfront and bucks the Gothic trend with the 96m/315ft-high dome at its center. While it was once the biggest Parliament in the world when it opened for business in 1896, the building has lost none of its opulence. The exceedingly long corridors of power, the grandiose gold-plated interior and red-carpeted staircases do nothing to instill any form of collective unity between the polarized politicians. While much like any Parliament, should you happen to enter the chamber after a debate, to which the opposition actually
shows up, you can almost feel the steam rising as you enter. Look out for the Hungarian crown, a gift from the Pope to King (now Saint) Istvn (Stephen) in the year 1000 to thank him for signing up Hungary to Catholicism. Watch out for protestors outside calling for the current Prime Ministers head. @ 1 hr for
tour, 15 min viewing from outside, enquire ahead via internet as Parliament is closed when in session & turn up 10 min before the tour begins. Kossuth tr 13. y 1/ 441-4000. www.mkogy.hu. Tour free for EU citizens, other nationalities Ft 2,640 (students Ft 1,320). Buy tickets at gate X. English tours at 10am,
Off the Beaten Track

While Budapest is blessed with many outstanding sights, I encourage you to step off the beaten path as and when the mood takes you. Budapest is visually impressive in every direction both deviating from and all along the main route of this particular tour, which features the not-to-be-missed element of the Hungarian capital. The magic of Budapest can also be found in tiny details such as the gargoyles or decorative motifs that adorn the plethora of striking late 18th- and early 20th-century buildings and hidden squares. I have written this guide with that in mind but I suggest you always take a little time to look up and around as you piece together the Budapest jigsaw.
11
The Best in One Day
12am, and 2pm daily. Metro: M2 to Kossuth Lajos tr.
7 = Chain Bridge.
This, the pick of Budapests varied bridges, isnt just an architectural marvel but is the first permanent bridge that linked Buda with Pest, setting in motion their eventual unification. Its also still the best and most scenic way of traversing the Danube to get from Parliament and Pests old town to the Castle District. The brainchild of Istvn Szchenyi, an anglophile Hungarian Count who sought to bring rural Hungary into the modern age, he employed two designers to build the ornate bridge, each with the name of Clark: William, an Englishman, and Adam, a Scot. The Chain Bridge opened in 1849, during Hungarys War of Independence with Austria and fortunately survived an immediate botched attempt to blow it up, something that the more efficient Germans managed when retreating from occupying the city in 1945. It was soon rebuilt and reopened on its centenary in the original style. Come back at night when it and the Royal Palace are
The Chain Bridge.
Funicular in the Castle District.
both lit up dramatically. @ 20 min. Connects Roosevelt tr with Clark Adm tr. Bus 16/105 or Tram 2.
8 The Castle District.

Bombed, burnt, battered, and rebuilt many times throughout the centuries, the Royal Palace and St. Matthias Church dramatically portray Hungarys trials and tribulations. I suggest you wander the district at your leisure to soak up the history of the place and return later for a more in-depth tour. (See p 60 for a complete tour of this historically rich district.) @ 2 hr. Bus 16
to Dsz tr.
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The Best in Two Days

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13
fter a hard day of major sightseeing on Day 1, take the plunge and relax in one of Budapests world-renowned thermal baths, while still admiring its architectural beauty, then get out and about again to uncover some of the unique buildings that reflect the countrys varied and troubled past. START: Take the M1 or Millennium
Underground to Szchenyi Frd.
1 = Szchenyi Frd Baths. The therapeutic waters of

this neo-Baroque bathing bonanza will revitalize tired joints and set you up for a fulfilling day. Thats providing you dont spend all your time being slow cooked in the hot pools, which will leave you seriously sleepy. Alternate between hot and cold pools, saunas, and steam rooms and take some time out in the mediumtemperature pools or just chill out on a deckchair. The most luxurious pool is the outdoor semi-circular one, from which steam dramatically rises in the cold of winter as locals play chess. The whirly pool is great for kids. @ 2 hr. Come early to avoid
the crowds, especially in summer. llatkerti krt 11. y 1/363-3210. Ft 2,400 with locker, Ft 2,800 with cabin (partial refunds for finishing within
Take a dip in the therapeutic Szchenyi Frd Baths.
Vajdahunyad Castle.
2 hr, 3 hr). 6am10pm daily. Metro: M1 to Szchenyi Frd.
2 = Vajdahunyad Castle.
Looking at it now, its hard to believe that this fairly authentic-looking folly was once made out of cardboard and dates back barely a century. Vajdahunyad Castle went up as a temporary structure as part of the Magyar millennium celebrations in 1896, depicting the various Hungarian architectural styles over the centuries. By 1908, Vajdahunyad had been transformed into a collection of stone replicas representing treasured creations from right across the Magyar realm. Particularly prominent are the ramparts facing the lake from Vajdahunyad Castle and Sighi@oaras clocktower, both in present-day
14
Romania. @ 30 min. Metro: M1 to

Hsk tere/Szchenyi Frd.
3 Fine Arts Museum (Szpmvszeti Mzeum). The

mighty Habsburgs who once ruled as far as Spain and the Netherlands acquired an astonishing collection of impressive art works, many of which found their way here. A tour de force in European art from the 13th to the late 18th centuries, lovers of Madrids Prado gallery will see similarities with this collection, which is also particularly strong in Spanish masters, with El Greco, Velzquez, Murillo, Ribera, Cano, Zurbarn and Goya all represented. El Grecos Annunciation, painted in the late 16th century, is set to heavenly clouds and bright lights (it has a twin in the Prado set to an architectural background), while Velzquezs early work Peasants Around a Table, dated around 1619, magically preserves the timehonored tradition of getting stuck into conversation over a few drinks.
4 Walk up Andrssy t. You are more than likely to have explored portions of this, the grandest of Budapests boulevards on Day 1 when checking out the Opera House, but further examination is rewarding. Walking from Heroes Square (p 7, bullet 1) the first stretch is lined with luxurious villas, including Kogart, an arts center and restaurant. Further up, Andrssy t is traversed by Kodly krnd, a striking square of faded but ornately painted town houses. @ 30 min.
Lukcs Cukrzda. Grab a coffee and a cake or snack at this tastefully restored coffee house that excels in freshly made cakes and pastries and is more laid back than most, being away from the madding crowd at Andrssy t 70. $.
@ 1 2 hr. Come early when major

1 2
temporary exhibitions are running. Dzsa Gyrgy t 41. Overlooking Heroes Square. y 1/469-7100. www.szepmuveszeti.hu. Ft 1,200. TuesSun 10am5:30pm. Metro: M1 Hsk tere.
The cutting edge museum at Terror House.
6 Terror House. Its funny how both the Fascists and the Communists both favored this location on classy Andrssy t to do their worst. An address that seems to be cursed, this visually impressive museum caused controversy with its highly politicized opening in 2002. Seen by many as an affront to the re-spun
15
synagogue not only pioneered a new style of Jewish architecture, it also spawned the father of modern Zionism who was born here, Tivadar Herzl (p 55, bullet 1). @ 15 min.
Dohny utca 2. Metro: M2 to Astoria.
8 = Applied Arts Museum. You might have encountered this remarkable-looking Art Nouveau masterpiece by dn Lechner, Budapests answer to Gaud, if you took the road in from the airport. Lechner, who also worked on the buildings plans with secessionist sidekick Gyula Prtos, created a Hungarian take on the Art Nouveau movement, adding Hungarian folk touches and emphasizing certain eastern influences on Hungary. Accordingly, traces of architectural styles from as far afield as India can be detected, and the bright green and gold Zsolnay tiles that adorn the roof and dome are more Oriental than European. For a tour of the interior go to the dedicated Special Interest Art Nouveau Tour (see p 25, bullet @). @ 1112 hr. lli t
3337. y 1/456-5100. www.imm.hu. Combined ticket, including temporary exhibitions, Ft 2,400. TuesSun 10am 6pm. Metro: M3 to Ferenc krt.
The impressive entrance to the Applied Arts Museum.
The Great Synagogue.
Hungarian Socialist Party, which once ruled Hungary with an iron fist but has changed beyond recognition, on behalf of their archrivals Fidesz, it was even sponsored by the then Fidesz Prime Minister Victor Orbn. Cynics claims are backed up by the fleeting coverage of Fascist Hungary and the much denser coverage of the red terror. However, the fascist Hungarian Arrow Cross Party ran the country for only a year, coming into power in 1944, but what a gruesome year that was, with the previously protected Jewish population being shipped off in droves to concentration camps. Politics aside, from the Russian tank that greets you; to the pictures of victims and their jailors; the industrial and dark classical soundtrack; film footage and interviews; genuine exhibits including Hungarian Nazi Arrow Cross uniforms; and the trip to the cells and gallows, I cant help but feel indignation. @ 1 hr. Andrssy t
60. y 1/374-2600. www.houseof terror.hu. Ft 1,500. TuesFri 10am 6pm, SatSun 10am7pm. Metro: M1 to Vrsmarty utca.
7 Great Synagogue. With its onion domes, Moorish and Byzantine influences, Budapests great
16
The Best in Three Days

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17
fter a lot of pacing the streets in Days 1 and 2, here we start with a coffee at one of Budapests most luxurious coffee houses, followed by a spot of shopping, taking in everything from designer boutiques, folk art shops, and food markets. This tour also gives you the option of ending the day with a swim and a thermal bathe to soothe the joints after scaling the dizzy heights of Gellrt Hill. START: M1 to Vrsmarty tr or Tram 2 to Vigad tr and walk for
two minutes in the opposite direction of the river.
1 Caf Gerbaud. Try morning

coffee and cake at one of the plushest of the citys illustrious coffee houses. Your biggest decision here will be to work out where to sit to take it all in. This is not the place I would choose to start the day every daythe ornate interior can be a bit over the topbut I find it tasteful enough in small doses to be an ideal treat. Coffee culture is about not only reading papers and devouring Gerbauds renowned Esterhzy and Dobos cakes, but legend has it that young men indicated their availability to well-heeled ladies of pleasure by tipping an excessive amount of sugar into their coffee. In summer, if the wealth of chandeliers, marble tables, fine wood paneling, and stucco ceilings gets a bit much, take to the terrace and sit out on Vrsmarty tr. @ 45 min.
Vrsmarty tr 7. y 1/429-9020. 9am9pm. Metro: M1 to Vrsmarty tr.
international cities. Keep an eye out on the side streets for high-end designers. Souvenir shops also abound, though with steep price tags, but if you are into embroidered tablecloths and folk art, then you have come to the right place (see p 77). The shopping street continues on the other side of Szabadsajt t, where the vibe is less frenetic. @ 1 hr. Walk through the
underpass that connects the two sides of Vci utca. From Vrsmarty tr to Vmhz krt. Metro: M1 to Vrsmarty tr (starting point).
3 Great Market Hall. You may feel like youre walking through an Impressionist painting when the sunlight shines into this beautifully restored king of neighborhood
Caf Gerbaud.
2 = Vci utca. Even

those who are not shopaholics can easily take in this relatively short shopping street and surrounding area. Starting from Vrsmarty tr, which often has something going on and hosts a Christmas market, youll find most big international fashion brands from Zara and Mango to Jackpot and H&M. However, most of them offer a somewhat modest selection in comparison to other
18
catfish crammed in tanks on fish death row downstairs are an uncomfortable sight for some, but hey, at least theyre fresh. There are plenty of foodstuffs like paprika, salami, and goose liver to take home, and upstairs look out for folklore and handicrafts hidden among the mountains of tourist goods. There are plenty of nibbles to be eaten upstairs. @ 30 min1 hr.
Vmhz krt 13. y 1/366-3300. Mon 6am5pm, TuesFri 6am6pm, Sat 6am3pm. Metro: M3 to Klvin tr. Tram: 2/47/49 to Fvm tr.
4 Walk across Szabadsg

Bridge. Buda and Pest are seamlessly connected by this bright green piece of intricate ironwork that joins the Pests Great Market Hall and its neighbor the Budapest University of Economics (formerly the Karl Marx University) with the Gellrt Hotel and the dramatic Gellrt Hill of Buda. It was opened by Emperor Franz Joseph in 1896, who actually knocked the last rivet into it. @ 10 min. Starts where Pests
Vmhz krt meets the Danube. Tram: 47/49 to Klvin tr.
Tinned paprika displayed in the Great Market Hall.
markets. However, its far from a museum piece; many locals come here to shop for fresh food and its bustling with life and color. The array of meat on sale shows just how thrifty Hungarians are, as they consider every part of the animal fair game for the pot. The carp and
The Gellrt Hotel.
19
5 = Gellrt Hill. This

imposing hill that towers over the Pest waterfront of the Danube has been used to good effect to suppress forces for change. Italian missionary
Szent Gellrt was reportedly rolled down the hill in 1046 to his death by revolting pagans. The Austrians then built a Citadel from which to lord it over the Magyars (see p 19).
5A 5B 5C
Gellrt Hill
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Semmelweis Orvostrtneti Mzeum
Gellrt Statue Citadella Freedom Statue
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Church Boat Pier Thermal Bath

0 0 0.25 km
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To find the Gellrt Statue K walk upstream towards the Erzsebet Bridge where you will see the steps leading up. Gellrt, who participated in spreading the gospel in 11thcentury Hungary on King Stephens request, met his end being tumbled down the hill (that was subsequently named after him) in a barrel filled with nailspossibly in one of those bum deals whereby your faith supposedly will save you. Ultimately, Christianity won through with Gellrt canonized in 1083. The Gellrt Statue captures the saint preaching defiantly but precariously on the edge of the hill. It dates back to 1904 and is the work of Hungarian sculptor Gyula Jankovits (18651920). Follow the path up and you reach the Citadel L that the Austrians, smarting from the
Hungarian Revolution of 1848, built, replete with cannons galore, atop the hill pointing at the Hungarians below. There wasnt much use for it after they patched up their differences in 1867, although German occupying forces utilized it in World War II. The three-level bunker inside the Citadel has waxworks and photos chronicling the Siege of Budapest. Close by and at the peak of the hill, Budapests very own statue of liberty, the Freedom Statue M, ironically went up in 1947 as a tribute to the Soviet forces that liberated the city from the Nazis. Featuring a woman proffering the palm branch of triumph and not overtly Soviet-looking, it survived the cull of Communist statues from the capital. @ 12 hr.
Min e
rv a
u.
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5B 5C
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Jubileumi park
Pipacs u. u.
Sziklatemplom
Szabadsg hd
1/4 mi
Szt. Gellrt t tr g yi lenhe Ke

Gellrt gygyfrd
20

Relax in style at the Gellrt thermal baths.
6 Cave Church. On the way

down, just before reaching the Gellrt Hotel and Baths, check out this spooky church whose eerie passages dig deep into the hill. Dont be alarmed if a priest appears from nowhere! @ 15 min.
7 Gellrt Baths. After another hard day of pounding the streets, the Art Nouveau architecture of the Gellrt thermal baths allows you to relax in style but also to see something special. Inside, the central pool is surrounded by Romanesque columns and lions spitting out water, and just for a moment you might expect Elizabeth Taylors Cleopatra to dive in alongside you. At the end of the pool, the male and female thermal facilities are to the right and left respectively. This is where things start to get really colorful and heated, and Im not just talking
about the design or decoration, nor the saunas and steam rooms. You can keep your bathing costume on, though many locals like to let it all hang out and dispense with their modesty cloths, although the authorities are said to be cracking down on that sort of thing. The plunge pool is so icy you feel the chill right through your bones, but the thaw of the warm pools is always close at hand. While the waters are supposed to sort out arthritis, blood circulation, and the spine, I say just enjoy them and come out feeling squeaky clean and purified. In summer, be sure to check out the outdoor pools and garden, which is a bit more suited to kids who can enjoy the artificial waves in the main outdoor pool.
@ 2 hr. Kelenhegyi t 4. y 4666166. Ft 3,100. 6am7pm. Tram: 47/49/18/19 to Szent Gellrt tr.
The Best SpecialInterest Tours
22
The Best Special-Interest Tours

llatkert 4
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The Best Art Nouveau
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23
udapest is blessed with many buildings constructed using a unique take on the Art Nouveau movement. Known as szecesszi, it has its own figurehead in dn Lechner (18451914), Hungarys equivalent to Gaud. Much of this tour can be managed on foot, which is a great way to see lesser known but still impressive parts of the city you might not normally encounter. START: M2 to
Stadionoak.
1 = Geological Institute (Fldtani Intzet). dn

Lechner incorporates geological elements such as fossils into his usual folk influences in the eye-catching purple and yellow faade. Should you arrive on a non-visitation day, a look at the entrance hallway will give you an idea of the expressive interior. Theres a small Lechner exhibition between floors. @ 30
min. Stefnia t 14. y 1/251-0999. www.mafi.hu. Ft 250. 10am4pm Thurs, Sat & Sun. Metro: M2 to Stadionoak.
elaborate entrance, which features towers, sculptured elephants, and gruesome gorillas. Like Bals Villa, the Zoo is next to City Park and you can see plenty from the outside.
@ 15 min. llatkerti krt 6. Metro: M1 to Szchenyi frd.

5 Klcsey Ferenc Gimnzium. After seeing such an ornate
zoo, I totally envy Budapests kids. Just a few minutes walk away, find the kind of epic and ornate school Id love to have gone to. However, Im reliably informed by a Hungarian friend who attended it that it didnt look like this until it was renovated after we both left school in the late 1980s. @ 15 min. Munkcsy Mihly
utca 26. www.kolcsey-bp.hu.
The elaborate entrance to the Zoo.
2 Zala Villa. A short walk from the Geological Institute, this castlelike structure, noteworthy for the elaborate sculptured motifs of human figures that drape over the wavy arched window, now houses the Libyan Embassy and can be easily viewed from the street. @ 10
min. Stefnia t 111 (corner of Ajtsi Drer sor).
3 Bals Villa. You may have

heard of buildings resembling elaborate wedding cakes before, but this dn Lechner-designed building, with its various tones of brown, is more of a chocolate cakeand thanks to its angles, a Gothic one at that. It looks out onto the City Park, houses the Braille Institute, and is a short walk from the Zala Villa.
@ 10 min. Hermina t 47.

4 Zoo (llatkert). Hungarian Art Nouveau often draws on Indian and Oriental elements. Examples of this can be seen at the Zoos
24
6 Dob utca School. Id

have no trouble sending my kids to this school. I like the clever and subtle use of brown and blue paintwork that keeps the building subdued enough to be used as a seat of education but still complements the buildings wavy and wobbly Art Nouveau aspect. The schools coat of arms, murals of kids playing hide and seek, and marching soldiers provide the perfect finish. Dob utca
85. www.dobsuli.hu. Tram: 4/6 to Kirly utca.
New Theater building both fits in and stands out on this narrow side street that runs adjacent to majestic Andrssy. Opened as the Parisiana nightclub in 1909, its charm lies in the domineering sculptured monkeys and the gold and blue organ pipe-like trimmings at the top.
Paulay Ede utca 35. Metro: M1 to Opera.
9 National Savings Treasury. Tucked away off the

main drag, the front faade is an engaging restrained mix of wavy lines, light colors, Hungarian folk motifs, and Islamic pillars, if such a funky combo can be restrained. Naturally, the bees making honey means money in Lechner-speak. However, the real drama comes with the roof, whereby Lechner deployed the wares of iconic Hungarian ceramics manufacturer Zsolnay to a more daring end than usual. Here the gentle curves of the faade give way to more stark angles in an eyecatching yellow and green-layered finish. Opened in 1886 as the Royal Hungarian Postal Savings Bank, it now serves as the National Savings Treasury. Although it is closed to the public, you can step in the door for a peek of the interior. @ 15 min.
Hold utca 4. Metro: M3 to Arany Jnos utca.
7 Ferenc Liszt Music Academy. The parallels with Barcelona and modernismo dont end with Gaud and Lechner. Aside from the muscular sculptures holding up a seated statue of the man himself, and some handy ironwork, much like Barcelonas famed Palau de la Musica, the real beauty of the Ferenc Liszt Music Academy lies on the inside in its awesome auditorium, which doesnt just look but sounds good too. I suggest you get along to one of the Academys great value concerts (see Arts & Entertainment p 132) or peek inside during term time. Liszt Ferenc tr 8. www.lfze.hu.
Tram: 4/6 to Kirly utca.
8 j Szinhaz. Bla Lajtas

compact and somewhat understated
The Art Nouveau Bed Hz.
25
The Museum of Applied Arts.
0 Bed Hz. The Art Nouveau Bed Hz takes the interactive museum concept a step further. Although the objets dart are inanimateArt Nouveau furniture, beds, love chairs, and the likeyou can actually sit on or stretch out on them should you desire. The museum stops short of letting you take the exhibits home, but have a word with them and theyll put you in touch with a carpenter who produces replicas. The downstairs caf is a good alternative to the pricey Gresham (see p 104). Honvd utca 3. y 1/269-4622. www.magyar szecessziohaza.hu. Ft 600. MonSat 10am5pm. Metro: M2 to Kossuth Lajos tr.
@ = Museum of Applied
Arts. Ive already introduced you to the exterior of this museum in the Best in Two Days tour (see p 15, bullet 8). As you walk through the ornate entrance, sadly the color gives way to a whitewashed interior. In 1920, the wishes of conservative critics were met and the daring design of the interior was painted over. This shouldnt discourage you from entering as, fortunately, they couldnt destroy the essence of the place. The twisty curling shapes, wobbly staircases, and the immense conservatory remain true to their original design. Among the permanent Art Nouveau exhibits look out for the Frigyes Spiegel-designed Art Nouveau Tall Case Clock and lots of groovy defining furniture.
! Gresham Kvhz. This suave

coffee house-cum-bistro is housed on the ground floor of the stunningly restored Art Nouveau Four Seasons Gresham Palace hotel (see hotels p 142) and does a noted deluxe burger from sirloin, exquisite sandwiches, and salads. Roosevelt
tr 56. y 1/268-5100. $$$.
# Gellrt Baths. While much of the Gellrt Hotel was bombed to rubble in World War II, the side that houses the baths escaped the worst and remains close to its original Art Nouveau splendor (see p 20, bullet 7 and p 27, bullet 1).
26
The Best Baths

Frankel Le
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27
The Best Baths
udapests thermal baths and lidos have both helped me through many an icy winter and cooled me down in the heat of summer. Each has its own character, while the thermal water itself is prescribed for treating joint problems and arthritis, among other conditions. For a full list of the medical benefits according to each specific water source, go to www.spasbudapest.com. START: Tram:
18/19/47/49. Bus: 7 to Gellrt tr.
1 = Gellrt Gygyfrd s Uszoda. Although

not the best place to come for a good swim, the Gellrt offers outstanding single-sex thermal bathing, with the mens side the most lavish. The cold plunge pool is so icy that you can feel your own bones, while the faded grandeur makes the garden a top place to take it seriously easy in the warmer months (p 20, bullet 7). Kelenhegyi t 4. y 1/
466-6166. www.gellertbath.com. Admission Ft 2,800 to Ft 3,100 (with cabin rental), Ft 400 refund if you leave within 2 hr. 6am7pm weekdays; 6am5pm SatSun (Apr 30 Sept 30). Tram: 18/19/47/49. Bus: 7 to Gellrt tr.
but be warned it gets really busy on hot summer days. Go early like the Hungarians do, or consider taking an evening dip. Its at its best in winter with snow on the ground and youre all snug and warm in the outdoor thermal pool (p 13, bullet 1).
llatkerti krt 11. y 1/363-3210. www.szechenyibath.com. Admission Ft 2,400 (Ft 2,000 if you leave within 2 hr). Daily 6am10pm. Some pools and services are only available till 4pm & 6pm & are closed on SatSun. Metro: M1 to Szchenyi Frd.
3 Rudas Gygyfrd s
Uszoda. Plunge into the turquoise water, which is given an extra depth of beauty by the beams of light that penetrate through the holes in the domed ceiling. Surrounded by stone pillars, you can splash back in time. Relax in the main central pool and then dip in and out of the corner pools of varying temperatures. Theres a really cold plunge pool around the corner on the way to the changing rooms. A welcome feature of the Rudas is the ward-like lying down room and I heartily recommend a snooze after the extremes your bodys just been through. Skip it and you might need an early night. The main bathing chamber features a large central pool and it is also open to women. Dbrentei tr
9. y 1/356-1322. Swimming pool 6am6pm. Steam 6am8pm. Steam for men Mon, Wed, Thurs, Fri; for women Tues; for both sexes in swimming suits Sat, Sun. Ft 2,200 for the steam (Ft 400 refund if you leave within 2 hr), Ft 1,200 (locker), Ft
2 = Szchenyi Gygyfrd s Uszoda. A magnificent neo-Baroque bathing complex,

Neo-baroque bathing at Szchenyi.
28
on post-1989 and Ive heard this place referred to as The Queen. It was so steamy in here that apparently most Budapest heterosexuals have been once, but now, or so Im told, overtly sexual behavior is no longer tolerated. Smaller than the Rudas, it also takes you back a long way in time. F utca 84. y 1/202368. Women Mon, Wed, Fri 7am6pm. Men 7am6pm. Men Tues, Thurs, Sat 9am8pm. Ft 2,300 for over 3 hr; Ft 1,300 within 2 hr. Metro: M2 to Batthyny tr.
Beams of light penetrate through the ceiling at Rudas Gygyfrd s Uszoda.
1,500 (cabin), Ft 1,000 (kids & pensioners) for the swimming pool. Tram: 18/19 to Dbrentei tr. Bus: 5/7/8/86.
4 Kirly Gygyfrd.
Under Socialism, the Turkish domed King was a tolerated meeting point for gay men, including certain members of the ruling lite. This carried
Lukcs Gygyfrd.
5 Lukcs Gygyfrd. You see many regulars here where its less touristy and has a mixed bathing option. I like to do a few lengths of one of the rather shortish open-air swimming pools before rewarding myself with the wonders of the interior. You can normally get a lane in the shorter of the two but it is cold, while in the longer pool youll be competing for space with the leisurely swimmers. Theres also a thermal pool with a fun whirlpool for tobogganing with your body. As the whirlpool switches off, people head for the water massage. I love
29
The Best Baths
Enjoy the holiday camp atmosphere at Palatinus Strandfrd.
lying back, relaxing, as the water surges up to the blurry sound of peoples voices. In summer, climb the stairs to the spacious sun terrace that looks out onto leafy Buda. Bikini tops come off here regardless of age, but is by no means obligatory. Inside, the large pool is for taking it easy. Dont stay too long in the hot pool, tempting as it is, beautifully tucked into its own chamber. Brave the steam room, plop straight into the cold plunge pool immediately next to it, and feel purged of all impurities momentarily. Its nice to sit on a bench in the garden and let your pulse return to normal afterwards. Frankel Le utca 2529.
one for proper swimming, plenty of grass to camp out on, and loads of food stalls and bars. Theres even fruit stands. Margit Sziget.
y 1/340-4505. Go early on very hot days, at weekends, or in school holidays. Daily 9am7pm May 1Aug 31. Ft 2,200 with cabin, Ft 1,800 with locker for all day on weekdays; Ft 2,400 with cabin, Ft 2,000 with locker for all day at weekends. Cheaper tickets available for shorter times. Bus: 26 to Palatinus strand. 7 Hajs Alfrd Nemzeti Sportuszoda. Good for a proper
swim with its Olympic-sized pool and several others, but also an excellent place to catch some rays. It held the European Swimming Championships in 2006 and has been extended accordingly. The outdoor pools are warm enough for swimming in winter but you can also swim inside. The big pool is sometimes devoted to training but you can usually find somewhere to swim. Margit Sziget. y 1/340-4946.
MonFri 6am5pm, SatSun 6am 6pm MaySep. MonFri 6am4pm, SatSun 6am6pm OctApr. Bus: 26 to Hajs Alfrd uszoda.
y 1/326-1695. MonFri, Sun 6am 7pm; Sat 6am5pm. Ft 1,900/1,700 for over 3 hr with cabin/locker; Ft 1,500/1,300 for within 2 hr with cabin/locker. Tram: 4/6 to Margit hd Budai hdf/18 to Lukcs Gygyfrd. 6 = Palatinus Strandfrd. Located on Margaret Island,
Palatinus Strandfrd has a holiday camp atmosphere that you can check into every day in summer. Theres a wide range of pools of varying temperatures and a long
30

Mark u.
Mammut 2
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31
Turkish Traces
o often associated with ruling with an iron fist during their 140-year occupation, we start our tour on a street named after Gl Baba, a Turkish fighter, preacher, poet, and influential consort of Suleiman the Magnificent. He even introduced the rose to Budin before falling in the successful invasion of the Castle in 1541. Most of these attractions are located within close proximity to each other.
START: Tram: 4/6 to Margit hd, Budai hdf.
1 Gl Baba utca. I find this

a remarkable oasis of tranquility even though its so close to Margit krt, the noisy Buda thoroughfare. This steep and narrow cobbled Ottomanesque street could be straight out of a hilly Istanbul neighborhood. The preserved wooden bay window at number 30 (unmarked) is directly opposite a very modern but tasteful take on wooden paneling opposite at number 23. @ 15 min. Tram: 4/6 to Margit hd, Budai hdf.
with introducing the rose to Buda and the plush surrounding neighborhood is known as Rzsadomb, literally Rose Hill. @ 12 hr. Mecset
utca 14/Trbe tr 1. y 1/326-0062. Ft 500. TuesSun 10am6pm. Bus: 91/191 to Apostol utca. Tram: 4/6 to Margit hd, Budai hdf.
2 Gl Baba tomb. Hardly among the most frequented of sights these days, this was once the center of Islamic life in Buda. Gl Babas pristinely restored mausoleum, which you can enter to take a peek at the colorfully decorated tomb and surrounding grounds, is a rare survivor from a period of history that has been all but wiped from Budas visage. This Bektashi dervish is credited
Statue of Gl Baba.
Hrom Testvr. The Three Brothers is a chain of fast food Turkish joints dotted around the city, and this branch fits nicely in with the bustle of the food market above. It has cushions to stretch out on and carpets to add to the color.
Ground floor of Fny utca piac. Lvhz utca 12. y 1/345-4125. $.
3=
4 Walk up Ostrom utca (Siege Street). Now suitably refueled, I recommend conquering the hill that is Siege Street. Youll be following in the footsteps of the
32
Have a Bath
On your way down from the Castle District, you can wind down this tour early and take the weight off your feet with a bathe at the once Turkish Rudas baths or Kirly baths (see entries in Best Baths, p 26). The core of these stunning baths is identical in structure to bathhouses in Turkey, with the exception that the Turks dont bathe in the water as its considered unhygienic and instead sweat on slabs. These baths have long been converted to pools, but the old atmosphere is retained. Also look out for the disused mushroom-domed former bathhouse opposite the Lukcs baths (see p 28, bullet 5).
Christian international alliance as they headed toward the Vienna Gate where they overpowered the Turks. Look out for Turkish soldier figures carved into the Castle wall. @ 10
min. Metro: M2 to Moszkva tr. Tram: 4/6 to Szna tr/Moszkva tr.
killed, bringing 145 years of Turkish rule of Buda to an end. He is apparently held in a certain amount of esteem according to the inscription that refers to him as both a hero and an enemy. @ 10 min. Close to the
intersection of Anjou bstya and Orszghz utca, down the steps from the latter. Bus: 16/16A/116 to Bcsi kapu tr.
5 Bcsi kapu tr. Here the

Hungarians finally overpowered the Turks to re-enter and reclaim the Castle in 1686. Ironically, after being rebuilt in the years after the liberation of Buda, the gate was taken down in 1896, the year of Hungarys millennium. The particular Vienna Gate (Bcsi kapu) that stands here today dates back to just 1936. As you pass under the gate look for the memorial dedicated to those who fell, not just Hungarians but also other European forces. @ 15
min. Bus: Vrbusz 16/16A116 to Bcsi Kapu ter.
7 Turkish Head at 24 Tncsics Mihly utca. Almost blending in with the light-colored stone-work, and right above the Louis XVI doorway of number 24, is the engraved head of an unknown but noble and powerful-looking Turk. Look inside at the remains of the original Gothic sedilla arches, which likely predate the Turkish influence in Budapest. @ 10
min. Bus: 16/16A/116 to Bcsi kapu tr.
6 Memorial of the
last Pasha. It takes a bit of
finding but its there; a Muslim shrine in a typical design within the boundaries of the Castle District, albeit a little tucked away from the busiest parts. Near this spot in 1686, Abdurrahman was defeated and
Memorial of the last Pasha.
8 National Gallery. I enjoy the

dramatic paintings of Magyar battles with the Turks, particularly Benczr Gyulas enormous canvas The
33
Turkish Traces
Turkish head at 24 Tncsics Mihly utca.
Recapture of Buda Castle 1686. It makes you think about the history of the spot you are standing on, even if it was painted a couple of centuries later. (See p 131.) @ 1 hr.
Szent Gyrgy tr 2 (housed in Royal Palace). Bus: 16/16A-116 to Szenthromsg tr.
and perhaps has something to do with it being fitted out with a praying niche pointing toward Mecca. You can still see it to the right of the main altar. The surrounding restored Islamic paintwork contrasts sharply with the other more austere half that was destroyed in World War II. @ 15
min. Mrcius 15 tr. y 1/318-3108. Tram: 2 to Mrcius 15 tr.
9 Inner City Parish Church. Cross the Chain Bridge

(p 11, bullet 7) and walk downstream, or take Erzsbet hid (bridge to go directly to the Inner City Parish Church. It was the only Christian church fully tolerated by the Turks
Inner Parish Church.
0 = National Museum.
Highlights include the one remaining of a set of three-of-a-kind Turkish leather cloaks in Room 6, the rest of which were lost in a fire at Istanbuls Topkapi Palace. Also of note is the Ottoman art with military arms used by the Turks and the Christian army in Room 8. @ 45 min. Mzeum krt
1416. y 1/338-2122. www.hnm.hu. Closed Mon. Metro: M3 to Klvin tr.
Gl Baba Szerj. You couldnt have a Turkish tour without carpets or at least a chance to have them rolled out temptingly for tea. Unlike Istanbul, theyll only start throwing the carpets down if youre interested in the first place. Serves a selection of plates such as ham, cheese, olives, or hummus and decent wine and beer, too. Paulay
Ede utca 55. No phone. $.
34

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35
udapest is legendary for its coffee house (kvhz) culture and for the most part its an integral part of the locals lifestyle rather than a clich to attract tourist dollars. Look out for the cukrszda, basically cake shops, some of which are very cute. I dont suggest following this tour rigidly, rather drop in to one of these coffee houses as and when youre passing.
1 New York Kvhz. The former hangout of cash-strapped writers, poets, and future Hollywood legends back in the fin-de-sicle days. These days, however, fledgling and hard-up film school contemporaries of the likes of Hungarian-born movie mogul Alexander Korda are scared off by the corporate prices. Theres no such thing as a preferential writers menu these days. Before it closed for restoration in the late 1990s it had a real faded grandeur feel, but its been immaculately restored in its neo-Baroque splendor. Certainly worth a peek but not everyones cup of tea as its almost overwhelming with a few too many cherubs for my liking, I prefer something a bit less ethereal. For a real splash in your wallet check out the Deep Water restaurant in the basement. Erzsbet krt 911. y 1/886-6111. Daily 9am12pm. Metro: M2 to Blaha Lujza tr. 2 Gerbaud. Neo-Baroque
bonanza plus some of the best
Coffee and cake at Mvsz.
Esterhzy and Dobos cakes in town.

(p 17, bullet 1.)
3 Mvsz. Simple but elegant and old-fashioned in a welcoming way with its arched windows, lowhanging chandeliers, and stripy wallpaper, Mvsz is just the place to drop into for a coffee and a cake. The action also spills out onto the terrace on classy Andrssy t in summer, although the high ceilings keep it nice and cool inside. Handy for the Opera House. Andrssy t
29. y 1/352-1337. Daily 9am12pm. Metro: M1 to Opera.
4 Centrl Kvhz.
Another famous institution from Budapests heyday that was popular with city hacks. The salons of the coffee house are named after the newspaper titles patrons edited and no doubt part worked out of. Central is a bastion of old-world charm and service without overdoing the glitz. Tastefully renovated in 1999, it has high ceilings, arched windows, and all the comfort you need. Centrl is
36
1921. y 1/889-6002. Daily 7am11pm. Metro: M2 to Astoria.
6 Caf Alibi. A petite modern

take on the grand coffee house of old that borrows something of a French bistro feel and is one of my favorites. Located in the quaint University District, Alibi gives you an excuse to take time to chill out. Food is available all day. Egyetem tr
4. y 1/317-4209. www.cafealibi.hu. MonSat 8am9pm, ThursFri 8am10pm, Sat 9am9pm, Sun 9am5pm. Metro: M3 to Klvin tr.
Old world charm at Centrl Kvhz.
also great for croissants and has an extensive coffee and wine list. More than a coffee house, its also a serious dining venue that narrowly missed out on my list of top restaurants.
Kroly Mihly utca 9. y 1/266-2110. www.centralkavehaz.hu. Daily 7am 12pm. Metro: M3 to Ferenciek tere.
7 Gerlczy Kvhz.
Look out through the high arched windows from this excellent bistrocum-coffee house onto a charming small square named after the first mayor of Budapest, Kroly Kamermayer. The interior is simple and tasteful with a long marble-topped bar and a relaxed Parisian feel. With its free WiFi, many make this their office. In the warmer weather the action spills out right onto the traffic-free square. I also rate this place for a full meal (p 100). Gerlczy utca
1. y 1/501-4000. www.gerloczy.hu. Daily 7am11pm. Metro: M1/M2/M3 to Dek tr.
5 Astoria. Now called the Mirror Caf & Restaurant, this place is faded 1920s grandeur personified, with plenty of chandeliers, pillars, and red velvet. Its far from gloomy now theyve opened the curtains and with reasonably priced caf lattes, its just the kind of place I like to relax in. Nicely air-conditioned in summer and also quite popular as a restaurant. Kossuth Lajos utca
8 Frhlich Cukrszda. The place to come for flavorsome fldni
Relax with a good view of the Danube at Dunapark.
37
Angelica.
(a triple whammy of apple, poppy seeds, and walnuts, encased in crispy pastry) which is Hungarys contribution to Jewish confectionery. Kosher Frhlich is nothing plush to look at but has been home baking since 1953 and has a real neighborhood caf feel. Dob utca
22. y 1/267-2851. MonThurs 9am8pm, Fri 7:30am6pm, Sun 10am4pm. Tram: 4/6 to Kirly utca.
still use your imagination to picture the interior chambers as a one-time crypt. Batthyny tr 7.
y 1/201-0668. Daily 10am10pm. Metro: M2 to Batthyny tr. ! Ruszwurm Cukrszda. This bijou and cozy
cake joint with low-arched walls dates back to 1827 and retains plenty of old Baroque charm despite its location in the tourist epicenter of Budapest. It looks a bit like a medieval chemists but, behind the curtain, confectionery from classic recipes by Hungarian cake guru Ills Tth is being concocted. Cream pastries, Tirol strudels, buttered dough, and many more are presented enticingly above the charming wooden counterits easy just to point to the ones you want. For something savory try the scone-like pogcsa.
Szenthromsg utca 7. y 1/3755284. www.ruszwurm.hu. Daily 9am8pm, closes 7pm off season. 16/16A/116 to Szenthromsg tr.
9 Dunapark. Part modern,

part 1930s, Dunapark is housed in a Bauhaus housing block and has plenty of cool Art Deco touches. Big windows provide views to the Danube and the attractive Szent Istvn Park, while the cakes are exquisitely and temptingly presented as you walk in. Less on display is the card room, tucked away upstairs. Increasingly a serious dining establishment. Pozsonyi utca 38.
y 1/786-1009. www.dunapark
kavehaz.hu. MonFri 8am12pm, Sat 10am12pm, Sun 10am10pm. Tram: 2/4/6 to Jszai Mari tr.
0 Angelica. With its view of

Batthyny tr and across to Parliament, this is a very special and relaxing place to sit outside in summer. Unfortunately, the eclectic neoBaroque and 1970s retro dcor has been replaced by something much more sterile, although you can
@ Auguszt Cukrszda. Run by the same family for five generations, this cute confectionery shop now has three branches. It is famous for the E80, a coffee, cream, marzipan, and chocolate cream cake combo. Fny utca 8. y 1/316-3817.
www.augusztcukraszda.hu. Metro: M2 to Moszkva tr.
38

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39
Budapest with Kids
side from the green areas of City Park and Margaret Island featured in Best of the Outdoors (p 81), Budapest has a number of other outstanding childrens attractions, ranging from good old-fashioned fun to the modern and interactive. START: M1 to
Vrsmarty utca.
1 Bbsz nhz (Puppet Theater). Traditional fairy tales and

acclaimed modern adaptations of ballet, opera, and pantomime classics are performed here. Look out for The Wooden Prince from local legend Bla Bartk. Andrssy t 69.
y 1/322-5051. Ft 500Ft 2,700 depending on the performance. Metro: M1 to Vrsmarty utca. 2 Palace of Wonders (Csodk Palotja). Inside, interactive exhibitions keep the children entertained and absorbed, but also teach them scientific principles without them even realizing it. Its part of the Millenris arts complex, and the outdoors part is great for relaxing with the kids. @ 1 hr. Millenris,
Building D. Fny utca 2022. y 1/336-4044. www.millenaris.hu. Ft 1,090, Ft 890. MonSun 10am 5pm, SatSun 10am6pm. Closed for renewal for two weeks from late Aug. Metro: M2 to Moszkva tr. Tram: 4/6 to Szna tr.
Take a packed lunch aboard the childrens train.
which youngsters, or pioneers as they were referred to, were handed the responsibility of running this railway that snakes through the scenic Buda Hills. A packed lunch is a good idea. @ 1 hr. See p 87, bullet 2.
Fogaskerek (Cog Wheel Railway) to Szchenyi hegy.
3 Childrens Railway (Gyermekvast). A bizarre but cute

hangover from the former system in
Traditional fairy tales at Bbszi nhz.
4 Railway Museum (Vasttrtneti Park). Drive a

steam engine, operate a hand wagon, or ride on a horse-pulled tram at Europes first interactive railway museum, which is home to Hungarys 50-strong operation steam fleet. A vintage diesel shuttle runs to the museum from Nyugati Station 3 Apr24 Oct. @ 2 hr.
y 06/70-313-4957. Family ticket Ft 1,900. Closed Mon & Dec 19Mar 14. Interactive rides by appointment only Mar 15Apr 1 & Nov 2Dec 18. Apr 3Oct 24 10am6pm, otherwise 10am3am. Bus: 30 to Rokolya utca. Tram: 14 to Rokolya utca.
40

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41
tart at Bem tr (Square), the meeting point of protestors on October 23, 1956 from where the 1956 revolution against the Soviet-backed government and Soviet meddling was initiated. Partially successful demonstrations in Poland, a traditional ally, in June 1956 against Soviet influence made people believe change could come to Hungary. Bem himself was a Polish general who fought with Hungary against Austria in the 18489 Revolution. START: Tram: 4
or 6 to Margit hd, Budai hdf. Bus: 86 to Bem Jzsef tr.
1 Bem Statue, Bem Jzsef

tr. Last time I passed by this legendary square to take a peek at the statue of this swashbuckling Pole, who fought with the Hungarians against the ruling Austrians in 1848, there was just myself and a homeless guy. But dont let that put you offthis is the spot where the spark that triggered the 1956 Revolution was ignited. Rewind to October 23, 1956: in the wake of a promisingly tolerated rebellion in Poland, groups of protestors, starting with students and soon spreading to the masses, met here to stand united against hardcore Communist rule. The Hungarian Revolution was ultimately illfated but nevertheless saw many Hungarians escape the tyranny. It also led to a gradual softening of the regime through reforms which saw the implementation of so-called
Hungarys ill-fated hero Imre Nagy.
goulash Communism. @ 15 min. Bem tr. Metro: M2 to Batthyny tr. Tram: 4 or 6 to Margit hd, Budai hdf. Bus: 86 to Bem Jzsef tr.
2 Kossuth Lajos tr/Parliament. After the meeting of minds

in front of the Bem Statue in 1956, the crowd that was growing in size and revolutionary fervor marched on to Parliament now demanding change. The bullet holes in the walls of the Agricultural Ministry (p 51, bullet 3) opposite testify to the point where a peaceful demonstration turned violent as Russian tanks and troops fired into the crowd after being shot at from the roof of the Ministry. @ 30 min. Kossuth Lajos tr.
Metro: M2 to Kossuth Lajos tr.
3 = Imre Nagy Bridge

Statue. Imre Nagy was Hungarys illfated hero of the 1956 Revolution, a
42
reform-minded Communist Party politician and former leader who sought a new, less strict brand of Socialism for Hungary. He is captured here looking back at Parliament as if thinking about what might have been had the West backed his country in its revolution against Soviet-backed rule.
6 Blaha Lujza tr. After being

pulled down with only his boots remaining in place, the Stalin statue was dragged here and smashed up. The square bears the marks of the Communist period. It is also a popular choice for violent protests, but also for partying. The roof of Socialist superstore Corvin is given over to a fabulous expansive rooftop bar in summer. @ 30 min. Blaha Lujza tr.
Metro: M2 to Blaha Lujza tr.
@ 15 min. Vrtank tere. Corner of

Bthory utca, Ndor utca and Vcsey utca. Metro: M2 to Kossuth Lajos tr.
4 Radio Building. After

things turned nasty at Parliament, the battle was on for control of the airwaves. There may not be many battle scars to see except for a bombed-out wall from the original Radio Building, but I like to wander the streets of this atmospheric neighborhood behind the National Museum and soak up the past. Look out for the beautifully restored palaces either side of the Radio Buildings modern entrance. @ 15
min. Brdy Sndor utca 57. Metro: M2 to Astoria or M3 to Klvin tr.
7 Lanzhou. The Chinese poured

into Budapest to study and work in the former system. This restaurant may look real simple, but plenty of Chinese are among the patrons and the food is very authentic. A bowl of chicken and noodle soup appears in no time and really tides you over to a bigger meal later. Luther utca 1/b.
y 1/314-1080. $. 8 Kztrsasg tr. A short

walk from Blaha Lujza tr, this is the site where revolutionaries committed brutal executions of the wrong people. At the Communist Party headquarters at number 26 on October 30, 1956 an angry crowd turned on surrendering army officials who they thought were members of the despised secret police. The Socialist Party headquarters was controversially housed here until recently. Kztrsasg tr 26.
5 Corvin Mozi. This cinema

complex, with its key strategic position next to Pest entry and exit thoroughfare lli t, was the site of intense fighting against the Soviets. You wont find any rubble, mortar marks, or bullet holes here, however, as Corvin has been restored to its former glory and function, although you will find a statue of a boy with a rifle that pays tribute to those who fell in the name of the Revolution. @ 15 min.
Corvin kz 1. (Close to corner of Jzsef krt and lli t.) y 1/459-5050. Metro: M3 to Ferenc krt. Tram: 4/6 to Ferenc korut.
9 Serbian Embassy. Imre Nagy (see bullet 3), who led Hungarys uprising against the Soviet Union in 1956, sought refuge here at the Yugoslavian Embassy overlooking Heroes Square (p 7, bullet 1).
Statue of a boy soldier at Corvin Mozi.
43
Stalins boots at Blaha Lujza tr.
The country really managed to pursue its own path of market-oriented Socialism, keeping clear of the restraints imposed by the Soviet control organ of the Warsaw Pact. Yugoslav Socialism could have provided an economic and political model something akin to what Imre Nagy, himself a reform-minded Socialist, might have envisaged for Hungary. Thus, the then Yugoslavian Embassy seemed a safe haven for Nagy as the Revolution became a crushed rebellion. Indeed it was safe until he left when he was seized by Soviet agents, and then shipped off to eventual but certain death, despite assurances to the contrary by his successor Jnos Kdr. Often seen as a pawn of Soviet wishes, Kdr is nevertheless credited with reforming the economy along freemarket lines, thus making Hungary the so-called happiest barrack in the Communist camp. Opposite at
Heroes Square, in 1989, with the winds of change in the air, Nagy was laid to rest once more with full state honors in front of a huge crowd. Kdr, who relinquished the leadership due to ill health and a struggling economy in 1988, passed away just weeks later on July 6, ironically on the same day as Nagy was acquitted of treason by the Supreme Court.
Dzsa Gyrgy t 92/b. Metro: M1 to Hsk tere.
0 Felvonulsi tr. The Hungarian Communist equivalent of Moscows Red Square is now nothing more than a handy parking spot. However, this is where the annual show parade of Communist might took place, while Party dignitaries watched on from a podium over which a statue of Stalin stood. For a replica of the podium, replete with Stalins boots, head to Memento Park (p 46, bullet 1). Metro: M1 to
Hsk tere. Next to Heroes Square.
44
Communist BudapestBehind the Iron Curtain

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45
Behind the Iron Curtain
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9 Sporting hero statues
46
side from ugly Soviet-era buildings next to fin-de-sicle masterpieces, traces of the past regime are not immediately apparent so this tour requires a bit of traveling. Most of the Communist statues were dragged off to Memento Park on the outskirts of Budapest, which is where we start our tour. START: Bus: 150 from
Kosztolnyi Dezs tr to Memento Park.
1 Memento Park (includes Statue Park). Hungarians are

reflective about their history. Instead of destroying all traces of the past, the despised statues of the former regime were dragged here to stare at each other. Youre greeted by an imposing statue of Lenin and a funky Cubist one of the Communist Manifesto authors Marx and Engels as you enter the Park. My favorite has to be the Herculean worker figure of the Republic of Councils Monument (statue no. 33) in full flight, sprinting for the Communist cause. The statues still get the emotions going and its easy to get indignant at the statue commemorating Soviet/Hungarian cooperation whereby a worker shakes hands with a beefy Soviet soldier (statue no. 4), almost visually suggesting dont mess with me and youll be fine. I especially like the
The Soviet War Memorial.
Statue at Memento Park.
Park toward sunset, when you can best feel their menace and collective might bearing down on you.
@ 1 hr. Corner of
Balatoni t and Szabadkai utca. y 1/424-7500. www.mementopark.hu. Ft 1,500. Daily 10amdusk. Bus: 150 from Kosztolnyi Dezs tr to Memento Park (25 min). Dedicated bus: Ft 3,950 including return trip via direct bus from Dek tr (bus departs 11am all year, plus 3pm in July & Aug).
2 House of Terror. A
cutting-edge museum detailing the horrors of oppressive regimes that occurred on this site. See p 14,
bullet 6.
47
Behind the Iron Curtain
budaTraces of Old Buda Behind the Socialist Faade

Communist town planners really took to consigning budas one-time beauty to the history books; however, nearby pockets of charm thankfully remain. Baroque F tr has survived intact and still looks striking despite the ugliness of huge tower blocks bearing down on it. In addition to cute old houses, Roman ruins are also spattered around the prefab paradise. The Amphitheater off Pacsirtamez (Intersection of Viador utca) is said to have been as big as the Coliseum, while the densest collection of Roman ruins can be found at Acquincum. Hercules Villa (Meggyfa utca 21) was closed due to technical problems at the time of writing, but the impressive mythological floor mosaics could be viewed with a minimum group of six by calling y 1/430 1-1081. The museum itself is very retro and blends in well with the Socialist-era housing blocks of the area.
3 Soviet War Memorial.

This war memorial is a notable survivor of the purge of the Socialistera statues that found their way to Memento Park. Controversial, thanks to the Soviet liberators who overstayed their welcome by more than 40 years, the memorial still stands proud, although unsurprisingly there is a movement underway to tear it down. The wounds of Soviet influence are still raw and it was severely vandalized during the anti-government riots of 2006 and is now ring-fenced. Interestingly, the final touches to its refurbishment were applied when Socialist Prime Minister Ferenc Gyurcsny was in Moscow. The memorial is directly opposite the US Embassy, where Cardinal Mindszenty sought refuge in 1956 as the Soviets extinguished the fire of the uprising. He stayed for 15 years in a big fingerup to the suppression of the church.
4 Marxim. Communistthemed pizzeria and pub with barbed wire and chicken wire separating the booths, decked out with plenty of Socialist-period memorabilia. The pizza is chunky American rather than Soviet. Feel free to write your messages on the walls. Kis
Rkus utca 23. y 1/316-0231. $.
Communist-themed bar Marxim.
@ 10 min. Szabadsg tr. No phone.

Metro: M2 to Kossuth Lajos tr or M3 to Bajcsy-Zsilinsky t.
48
Moszkva Tr.
5 Moszkva tr. Moszkva tr is a

charming old square surrounded by dramatic buildings, such as the castle-like Post Office admin building. The masterpiece of the square, however, is the surge of Socialist-Realism that emerges from the middle square in the form of the space age underground station. Moscow Square is a busy and bustling meeting point and transport hubthe kind of place where people come to sign up for a days illegal workand therefore is subject to regular police raids. The escalator to the underground descends from such a height it can make you dizzy. @ 15 min. Moszkva
tr. Metro: M2 to Moszkva tr.
estatebut no one is shouting this from the rooftop. Its a far cry from whats left of the classical columns that make up the ruins of a Roman settlement in the square it overlooks. Tucked under the flyover youll find the remains of Roman baths. @ 30 min. HV to rpd hd.
8 PECSA. This Socialist-era music venue replete with a funky exterior is still going strong and you can see some big names here, both on the indoor and outdoor stage. On weekend mornings its the place to buy Socialist bric--brac (see Best Shopping p 65). Zichy Mihly utca. y 1/363-3730. Metro: M1 to Szchenyi frd. Map p 70. 9 = Sporting hero statues. Ive always found these statues of Socialist sporting titans inspiring. They almost seem to transcend political ideology, although sport was used to express supposed superiority of the political left. Nevertheless, they stand as tributes to an impressive sporting past. Now used as a backdrop for concerts and events, you can normally get in to see them. The statues are part of the Ferenc Pusks stadium, which has many interesting Socialist design elements.
6 Childrens Railway. A cute hangover of the previous political system, the Childrens Railway was run by the Communist pioneer youth movement that delivered organizational skills and an understanding of responsibility to future Party members (p 87, bullet 2).
@ 1 hr. Fogaskerek (Cog Wheel

Railway) to Szchenyi hegy.
7 Prefab housing overlooking Flrin tr, buda. A bizarre sight that bears the architectural stamp of two contrasting empires: Roman and Soviet. The prefab housing block is among the citys drabbest and is supposedly Eastern Europes longest connected
@ 30 min. Ifjsg t 13. 100m on right from entrance. Free Admission. Metro: M2 to Stadionak.
The Best
Neighborhood Walks
50
The Best Neighborhood Walks
Belvros
0 0
Olimpia park
0.25 km
1/4 mi
1 2 3 4 5 6
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14
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Magyar Nemzeti Mzeum

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51
Belvros
ou wont be able to miss the size and extravagance of Hungarys neo-Gothic Parliament that looks built for a superpowerwhich in fact Hungary was when it was completed in 1904. However, this is just the start of epic central Pest and on this tour youll see other landmark buildings from Budapests heyday. Despite the distinct air of faded grandeur, much of this neighborhoods history lies nearer to the present. START: Metro: M2 to Kossuth Lajos
tr/Tram: 2 to Szalay utca.
1 Museum of Ethnography.
This impressive neo-classical building helps counterbalance the power of the Parliament opposite and is situated in yet another beautiful Budapest square. On the inside, its permanent exhibitions help give a perspective on the maverick Magyars. @ 15 min1 hr (depending on
whether you visit the exhibition). Kossuth Lajos tr 12. www.neprajz. hu. Admission Ft 800. 10am6pm. Closed Mon. Metro: M2 to Kossuth Lajos tr/Tram: 2 to Szalay utca.
territory and around the same in population, but the Parliament is still there to be savored in all its glory. See p 10, bullet 6.
3 = Agricultural Ministry.
I always make a beeline for the arches of the Agricultural Ministry and walk along the covered passage watched by the busts of notable Magyar agriculturalists. Look out for the marked bullet holes from the 1956 uprising-cum-revolution against the Soviets. Kossuth Lajos tr 11.
2 Parliament. Sprawling
in size and style, Hungarys giant Parliament building signifies Hungarys pre-Trianon might. The Trianon Treaty of 1920 might have seen Hungary lose two-thirds of its
Imre Nagy looks over to the parliament building.
4 = Bridge Statue of Imre

Nagy. Hungarys ill-fated leader is
captured here in a moving forlorn pose (p 41, bullet 3). Vrtank
tere. Corner of Bthory utca, Ndor utca & Vcsey utca.
5 = Szabadsg tr. I like

to grab a coffee at Caf Farger at Zoltn utca 18, sit outside and contemplate this grand and spacious squares contradictions. The controversial Soviet War Memorial pays thanks to the Soviet forces for liberating Hungary from the Nazis, though ironically they then effectively stayed for more than 40 years. The memorial faces the old Cold War foe in the form of the American Embassy, which was severely vandalized in the 2006 riots for its association with the Socialist-led government. The then Prime Minister, Ferenc Gyurcsny, was caught on tape at a supposed closed party convention admitting that his government had screwed it up and done nothing for the country. In
52

Bees making honey on the faade of the National Savings Treasury.
tandem, in perhaps the most drastic action of the 2006 anti-government insurrection, the building that houses the Hungarian State Television (MTV) was stormed by rightwing protestors and curious members of the onlooking crowd. The vast structure was built by Ignc Alpr, also of National Bank fame, and once housed the stock exchange. Szabadsg tr.
8 Hungarian National Bank.

Like the epic Parliament building, the stature of Hungarys Central Bank is reflected in the size and drama of the building. The building was originally constructed as the headquarters for the Budapest network of the Austro-Hungarian Bank in 1905. An eclectic and empowering palatial structure, it was designed by the financial institution architect supremo Ignc Alpr and stands in contrast to the slick, modern Bank Center, opposite it, that went up some 90 years later.
Szabadsg tr 89.
Belvrosi Vsrcsarnok. Head to the far end of this inner-city food market for a Hungarian version of fish n chips, next to which theres a hole-in-the-wall eatery serving hearty Hungarian classics. Also, stalls selling deep-fried dough (lngos), sausages galore, and cheap Chinese. Hold utca.
9 Szent Istvn Basilica and tr. My first memory of Saint

Stephens Basilica (p 9, bullet 5) is from the early 1990s when it was a neglected, blackened structurea far cry from its gleaming condition now. The square itself is also looking good these days and appears to have been hand-polished. Szent
Istvn tr.
y 1/332-3976. 6:30am5pm Mon, 6:30am6pm TuesFri, 6:30am2pm Sat. Closed Sun. 7 National Savings Treasury. The depictions of bees making
honey, symbolizing moneymaking, can be seen on the exterior walls of this Art Nouveau masterpiece from dn Lechner, Hungarys answer to Gaud. (See p 15, bullet 8.)
0 Roosevelt tr. Comprising the opulent Academy of Sciences, on the left-hand side as you face Pest from the number 2 tram stop, and the stunningly restored Art Nouveau Four Seasons Gresham
53
Belvros
Palace hotel opposite, the new office building between them has enhanced the square no end. The southern side, however, is the realm of the big hotels built to SocialistRealist specifications. Roosevelt tr.
! Vrsmarty tr. One of the

many mini-centers of Pest that is looking considerably better and more like an old town square now that a tasteful modern structure (parallel with the Danube, on the side closest to the river) has replaced the former Socialist-era monstrosity. Toward Christmas an ever-improving Christmas market pops up on the square where shoppers keep the cold off by imbibing mulled wine (forralt bor). Vrsmarty tr.
Szent Istvn Basilica.
@ = Walk the waterfront. Pretty Vigdo tr is named

after the arch-windowed and pillared concert hall.
# Ferenciek tere. This square is notable for Pests very own twin towers, the ornate Habsburg-period, neo-Renaissance Klondit and Matilda. They lie directly opposite each other, either side of the busy Szabadsajt t, and form
Locals rest on the steps at Vrsmarty tr.
an impressive exit gate from Pest over Erzsbet Bridge. The view looking between the buildings to the more modern bridge and to Gellrt Hill is striking. Prizsi udvar (at Ferenciek tere 1011/Petfi Sndor utca 28) is a grandiose forerunner of the modern shopping mall, and seems to be lifted straight from turn-of-the-century Paris. It was built on the eve of World War I during the last phase of Budapests epic Austro-Hungarian construction frenzy. This under-utilized shopping arcade is finished in polished dark colors that resemble the interior of a cathedral and is topped off by intricate and sumptuously colored glasswork.
$ University Church. A
Baroque beauty tucked away in this less frequented but atmospheric corner of District V. Famous Hungarian saints and mythical Magyars feature in the side chapels while fading Baroque brushwork makes this the kind of church I like. Ask the friendly gentlemanwho is eager to try out his Englishif you can see the cloister. @ 15 min. Free admission.
Egyetem ter.
54
The Jewish Quarter

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55
The Jewish Quarter
udapest is home to Central and Eastern Europes largest Jewish community and this neighborhood in District VII is its core. While youre more than likely to visit one of its hip nightspots, it is well worth looking and nibbling around in the daytime when its steeped in atmosphere. Magnificent synagogues surrounded by crumbling buildings are the norm and its not hard to imagine that this was once a ghetto. START: M2 to Astoria then walk a couple of
minutes to the Great Synagogue at Dohny utca 2 on the corner of Wesselnyi utca.
1 Great Synagogue.
Somewhat tucked away off the main drag, the Great Synagogue has been beautifully restored and reopened in 1995. It also houses the Hungarian Jewish Museum. For me the real drama of the building, which is the worlds second largest synagogue after New Yorks, is in the Moorish and Byzantine exterior. Some Gothic touches, like the arched windows and trefoil ledge, are also apparent, although the interior is suitably lavish. The twin onion-domed towers crown the buildings oldest part, designed by Viennese Ludwig Frster, while the wing that houses the museum to the left side was added in 1931. After its consecration in 1859, the
revolutionary form influenced synagogue design internationally. However, its not just the architecture of this Neolog house of worship that changed the course of history: Tivadar Herzl, the father of modern Zionism, who sought the establishment of a Jewish country in the Middle East, was born within its grounds in 1860. A central part of the ghetto in World War II, the back courtyard has a cemetery where a couple of thousand Jews, who perished in atrocious conditions, are buried. The leaves of Imre Vargas moving metallic weeping willow contain names of those who died in the holocaust. @ 1 hr. Go early at
10am on weekdays before crowds in summer. Dohny utca 2 (corner of
The Great Synagogue and Hungarian Jewish Museum.
56
The stunning tunnel-like courtyard Gozsdu Udvar.
Wesselnyi utca). Admission Ft 1,600. Metro: M2 to Astoria.
view the colorful turquoise-dominated interior for a small fee. Rumbach utca.
2 Rumbach utca Synagogue.

A symbol of compromise between squabbling factions of the local Jewish community, Viennese Otto Wagner built the so-called status quo synagogue in 1872 using bright Moorish colors and topping the structure with a pair of classic mosque-like towers. Although it no longer functions as a synagogue, visitors are sometimes allowed in to
Rambach utca Synagogue can sometimes be entered for a small fee.
3 Arch between buildings at

Madch Imre tr. The huge archway that connects the towering bright red-brick townhouses that look out onto the central boulevard of Kroly krt was to have been the entry point to a new grand boulevard that would have graced Jewish Budapest. However, the tragic events of World War II put paid to that idea. The view back through the archway to Gellrt Hill is spectacular, but the boulevard peters out quickly when a modern banking center crosses its path. Madch
Imre tr.
4 Gozsdu Udvar. Continue down Rumbach utca and walk up Kirly utca to number 13. This stunning tunnel-like courtyard network, which has been used in numerous films, connects the upcoming and trendy Kirly utca with the still ghetto-like Dob utca. Now its gone a bit upmarket (the idea is to turn it into a shopping arcade) compared to its state of decayed beauty of just a few years back, when it was home to just one solitary obstinate tenant who resisted the developers. The developers
57
The Jewish Quarter
Best of the Rest of Jewish Budapest

The functioning synagogue at Frankel Le t 49 is a bizarre sight. Passing many times from the Danube side, onto which the back juts between two large townhouses, I thought it was simply bricked up. However, from the Frankel Le side theres a fully functioning synagogue amazingly tucked inside a courtyard. The main Budapest Jewish cemetery at Kozma utca 3 in District X (y 1/262-4687) contains some stunning Art Nouveau tombs, especially that of the Schmidl family, which is the work of Hungarys secessionist Kings Lechner and Lajta who used Zsolnay ceramics in the design. The Holocaust Memorial Center at Pva utca 39 in District IX (y 1/455-3333) charts the tragic path from deprivation of rights to genocide for local Jews and Roma. Another chilling reminder of many of the local Jewish populations terrible fate comes from the permanent Shoes on the Danube Promenade memorial, a few hundred yards from Parliament in the direction of the Chain Bridge. This 40m/130ft row of sculpted iron shoes, created in 2005 by Gyula Pauer and Can Togay, stands as a memorial to victims of Hungarys Nazi party, the Arrow Cross, who in 1944 and 1945 shot Jews after making them take off their shoes. They then fell straight into the river.
got their way, of course, but, fortunately, much of the old atmosphere remains. So far only one bar, Konczi Kert, near the Kirly utca entrance, is open (summer 2008). Enter from
Kirly utca 13 or Dob utca 16. www.gozsduudvar.hu.
pastries, although the latter tend to have sold out by midday. The smoked salmon Smokey pizza is my, and many other peoples, favorite. Kazinczy utca 28. y 1/342-0231. $.
5 Kazinczy utca Synagogue.

I just love how the Art Nouveau movement influenced the design of the citys synagogues. The Kazinczy Synagogue boasts an awesome Art Nouveau faade, half hidden down this narrow street, which is all the more remarkable when you think that this was commissioned by orthodox traditionalists. @ 30 min.
Kazinczy utca 2931.10am3:30pm MonThurs, 10am12:30pm Fri & Sun. Admission Ft 800.
Cari Mama Pizzeria. Quick and crispy Kosher pizza, sandwiches, salads, fried eggs, and
7 Klauzl tr. This big, ambient square has seen a lot in its history. The ironwork doorway into the indoor market hall retains some pre-war charm, although theres a lack of market stalls with the space mainly taken up by a supermarket. For atmosphere head a few doors down to the Kdr tkezde (p 100) for a late lunch (closes 4:30pm). Forget retro, this is the genuine article with pictures of past celebrities, soda siphons to dilute raspberry cordial (mlna szrp), and patchwork tablecloths. You still pay the man on the door on the way out for what youve had. Klauzl tr.
58
The Watertown (Vzivros)

0 0 0.25 km 1/4 mi
Budai als rakpart

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Magyar Nemzeti Galria
Budapesti Trtneti Mzeum
59
The Watertown (Vizivros)
love wandering this gem-packed small area wedged between the Castle District and the Danube, especially at the weekend when alls peaceful. The main sights are down toward the river but I also recommend climbing the steep picturesque streets, particularly Ponty utca (Carp Street) that starts down on F utca. START: M2 to
Batthyny tr.
1 Batthyny tr. Strikingly situated directly opposite Parliament (see p 10, bullet 6), which effectively makes up the fourth corner of the square despite being on the other side of the Danube, Batthyny tr is a haven of Baroque beauty in this busy part of Buda. The Baroque attractions include St. Annes church and a number of colorful houses, including one sunk below street level. Sip a coffee in the famous Caf Angelica (p 37, bullet 0) and youll be sitting in the churchs former crypt. The impressive market hall is a more recent addition. Batthyny tr.
4 Corvin tr. Here youll find another haven of Baroque buildings clustered either side of the square, as well as the eclectic-looking turnof-the-century Budai Vigad at number 8, which is home to the Hungarian National Folk Ensemble. Its worth peeking inside for the Art Nouveau interior decoration, and grand staircases. I find the square at its best on weekends when the traffic is sparse.
Corvin Kvz. Bijou caf right on pretty Corvin tr that enables you to refuel while admiring the Baroque houses or the view up to Castle Hill. $.
The bustling Batthyny tr.
Nagyi Palacsintzja. Fast food Hungarian style with sweet and savory pancakes, plus salads and filled jacket potatoes.
Batthyny tr 5. $.
3 Budai als rakpart and the

Chain Bridge. Stroll along next to
the tree-lined tramline overlooking the Danube to the Chain Bridge. Budapests most famous bridge features two arched neo-classical buttresses that rise high above the water. Often compared to a pair of imperious silent lions, they were sculpted by Jnos Marschalk who curiously didnt give them tongues. Theres also plenty of both solid and intricate ironwork hanging from the buttresses. See p 11, bullet 7.
60
The Castle District

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61
The Castle District
he opulence of the repeatedly razed and rebuilt Royal Palace and St. Matthias Church dramatically portrays Hungarys trials and tribulations. They are, however, just the beginning of this historic and richly bequeathed district. Being Budapests most tourist-infested area I recommend an early start, but its also great at night. START: Bus 16/16A/116 to Dsz tr. There is also the Sikl (funicular) for Ft 800 to the Castle gate from Clark dm tr below the Castle, which is quite a bit more expensive than the bus.
1 Royal Palace. The

imposing and multi-faceted Royal Palace may have become a Royal Residence in the 14th century but it dates back further to the 13th-century Mongol invasion of Hungary. The Palace took a serious battering when the Turks were evicted in 1686, and the first attempts at rebuilding it were much more austere than the opulence you see today. Its grand design was literally made fit for a KingAustrias Franz Josef Iby leading local architects after the Austro-Hungarian Compromise of 1867. If you alight from the funicular right next to the entrance youre greeted by a statue of the mythical Magyar bird the Turul, which looks like its about to fly away from all the tourists. The sweeping views down the Danube and over to Pest from the Castle Gardens, which you enter through
an ornamental gate, help put much of the Budapest jigsaw into place. The main attraction on the inside of the Royal Palace is the National Gallery (p 131). In the outer courtyard, Alajos Strbls King Matthiass Fountain dates back to 1904 and fits perfectly in the niche in the Palace wall. The ramparts are much older, and the stretch south of Szent Gyrgy tr dates back to Sigismund of Luxembourgs rule in the early 15th century. @ 12 hr. 16/16A/116
to Dsz tr.
Mir Caf. This necessarily colorful tribute to Catalan Surrealist artist Joan Mir is a fun contrast to the almost overpowering architecture of the Castle District. Known for its ice cream, breakfast and light lunch is also served. ri utca 30.
At Dsz tr. y 1/201-5573. $$.
The imposing and multi-faceted Royal Palace.
62

Ornate altar in St. Matthias Church.
3 St. Matthias Church.

Just a stones throw away from the Fishermans Bastion lies the mainly neo-Gothic St. Matthias Church (Mtys Templom), which is topped off by an extraordinarily multi-colored tiled roof. While King Matthias Corvinus didnt build the church from scratch, he did extend and repair the then 200-year-old Gothic structure in the 15th century. He also made good use of it, having two of his three marriages there. Charles Robert was the first to be crowned here in 1308, while Charles IV was the last in 1916 and indeed the last Habsburg Monarch. In preparing for the millennium celebrations in 1896, Frigyes Schulek hacked away some of the 15th-century additions in a rather impressive bid to restore the churchs original look. 19thcentury artists Kroly Lotz and Bertalan Szkely bring Hungarian legends and history to life inside. I love the calm and soft tones of the interior, which is also one of the few places where the
din of tourist chatter dies down, and the color of the roof gives something modern (well, it was cutting edge in 1896) to the neo-Gothic visage.
@ 30 min. Szenthromsg tr 2.
y 1/489-0716. Admission Ft 700. Free to pray. Bus 16/16A/116 to Dsz tr. 4 Equestrian Statue of King
Istvn. Popping up right between Matthias Church and the Fishermans Bastion, Hungarys first monarch reminds everyone whos boss in Hungarys story. He even stole King Matthiass thunder by putting the first church up here in 1015. The statue itself is the work of master sculptor Alajos Strbl, but the altarpiece on which the statue rests is from Frigyes Schuleks design, hence the smooth integration with its two surrounding sights.
5 = Fishermans Bastion. The

seven Disney-like mini towers might look custom-built for Snow Whites troupe, but the fact that there
Equestrian statue of King Istvn.
63
The Castle District
are seven refers rather to the seven leaders of the Magyar tribes who galloped in to claim Hungary in 896 AD. This fairytale blend of neoGothic and neo-Romanesque, conjured up by Frigyes Schulek, affords stunning views over to Parliament and sprawling Pest. The steps that run down beside it were poorly guarded when the invading Turks piled in to seize the Castle.
@ 30 min. Admission Ft 400 to enter the towers but you can explore the lower parts for free.
6 = Ruszwurm
Cukrszda. Refuel over coffee with a green marzipan-topped Mtys cake at this cute and cozy, still family-run Budapest institution (p 37, bullet !). Szenthromsg utca 7.
Statue of Andrs Hadik and his lucky horse.
y 1/375-5284. $$$. 7 Andrs Hadiks Equestrian

Statue. Quite why it is that students from the nearby Engineering University consider it good luck before exams to rub the big brassy
The fairytale towers of the Fishermans Bastion.
testicles of this Huszrs horse is anybodys guess, but its one of the few remaining activities thats free in the Castle District. Hadik incidentally was a Slovak who rose to the high rank of commander in the Austrian army serving in the Seven Years War, even taking Berlin and serving as the protector of Buda Castle.
8 = Cave Hospital and

Bunker. The fascinating subterranean complex of 2,000 sq m/6,560 sq ft runs underneath the Castle and served as a World War II hospital and Cold War nuclear shelter. Lovas
t 4c. Admission Ft 3,000. 10am6pm, closed Mon.
9 = Magdalene Tower. This

large 13th-century Franciscan church was almost consigned to the history books by allied bombing in World War II, but the tower and a Gothic vaulted window obstinately rise out of the ghostly ruins thanks to reconstruction completed in 1997. In the early days of the Ottoman occupation, the Turks allowed Christians to use the church, bringing both Protestants and Catholics to worship here, but in different parts of the church,
64
of course. Later it was converted into a mosque, returning to its former use after the Turks were expelled.
Kapisztrn tr.
0 Explore the old cobbled streets between Tncsics Mihly utca and Tth rpd stny. These streets,
slightly away from the madding tourist crowd, hold more fascination for me than the more famous sights. Here, you realize that the Castle District isnt just a museum-piece and that people do actually live in these cute houses, many of which date back to the 19th and 18th centuries, some earlier. On Tncsics Mihly utca, which was once part of the Jewish quarter, look out for the elaborate courtyard of former Erdy mansion at number 7, which is now home to the Music History Institute. Steeped in history itself, Beethoven once stayed here. On the same street, you can see houses that have been built on the original medieval foundations, such as number 10 with its upper niche containing a vase and shell. Fortuna utca features charming neo-classical and Baroque houses, while the triangle of houses on Orszghz utca at numbers 20, 22 and 5, directly opposite, feature a Gothic ledge with arch, a fabulous bay window, and a stunning gate, respectively. At 32 ri utca, check out at the partly preserved Gothic sedilia next to the gate. Tth rpd stny skirts around the perimeter of the inner Castle District and is great for a walk with a view.
Great views from the Castle District.
! Bcsi kapu tr. The

Vienna Gate is where the Hungarians finally overpowered the Turks to re-enter and reclaim the Castle in 1686, though the Vienna Gate that stands here today dates back to just
1936 (see p 32, bullet 5). At the squares center, the fountain, which features a girl protecting a sacred light, is a tribute to writer Ferenc Kazinczy and his efforts to develop the Hungarian language in the 18th century when its usage was far from universal. Foreigners who are struggling with this seemingly impenetrable language at least have someone to blame. Kazinczy didnt have an easy time of it though and was sentenced to death for his role as a Jacobin along with the movements leader Ignc Martinovics, priest of the Magdalene Church. Like the Hungarian language, but unlike Martinovics, Kazinczy survived. It seems fitting that the domineering National Archives building, with its colorfully tiled Zsolnay roof, overlooks the square. Substantially less imposing is the tiny Lutheran church on the opposite side of the square. Noted Greek and Roman guru Jzsef Grigely once lived at 7 Bcsi kapu tr, which accounts for the relief featuring Pallas Athena and Classical authors including the likes of Virgil and Socrates. Bcsi kapu tr.
The Best Shopping
66
The Best Shopping
Shopping Best Bets

Best American Mall Experience
Arena Plaza, Kerepesi t 9 (p 78) and Westend City Center, Vci t 13 (p 78)
Best Food Market

Great Market Hall, Vmhz krt 13 (p 77)
Best Funky Gifts

Szupernova, Irnyi utca 20 (p 73) and Repl Tehn, Hajs utca (p 77)
Best Art Auction House

Kieselbach, Szent Istvn krt 5 (p 71) and Virg Judit M-terem, Falk Miksa utca 30
(p 72)
Best Handmade Shoes

Vass Shoes, Harris kz 2 (p 76)
Best Bejing-style Market Experience

Jzsefvrosi Piac, Kbnyai t 2123 (p 76)
Best Hats
V50 Design Art Studio, Vci utca 50 (p 73)
Best Hungarian Designer

Katti Zob, Szent Istvn krt 17 (p 73)
Best Ceramics
Herend, Jzsef Ndor tr 11 (p 73) and Zsolnay, Vci utca 1921 (p 73)
Best Jewelry
Wladis Galria s Mterem, Falk Miksa utca 13 (p 75)
Best for Firewater

Magyar Plinka Hza (House of Hungarian Plinka), Rkczi t 17 (p 80) and Zwack Shop, Soroksri t (p 80)
Best Retro Magyar Sneakers

Tisza Cip, Kroly krt 1 (p 76)
Best Salami
Pick Mrkaruhz, Kossuth Lajos tr 9 (p 79)
Best Flea Market

Ecseri Piac, Nagykrsi t 156 (p 76)
Best Wine Shop

Bortrsasg, Batthyny utca 59 or Szent Istvn tr 3 (p 80)
Handmade footwear at Vass Shoes.
67
Shopping Best Bets
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The Best Shopping
Outer Pest Shopping

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Budapest Shopping A to Z
Art & Antiques Boulevard s Brezsnyev
CENTRAL PEST Cutting-edge paintings and objets dart at reasonable prices from fledgling artists with innovative exhibitions opposite. Also sells vintage posters. Kirly
utca 39. (Temporary exhibitions: Kirly utca 46.) y 0630/944-5778. www.bbgaleria.hu. No credit cards. Metro: M1/M2/M3 to Dek tr. Tram: 4/6 to Kirly utca. Map p 68.
Inda Gallery CENTRAL PEST Located on arty Kirly utca but hidden away on the second floor of a townhouse, Inda offers paintings, installations, and sculptures from a talented younger generation. Kirly
utca 34 2/4 (corner of Szkely Mihly utca). y 1/413-1960. www.inda galeria.hu. MC, V. Metro: M1/M2/M3 to Dek tr. Tram: 4/6 to Kirly utca. Map p 68.
Ernst Gallery CENTRAL PEST Charming gallery dealing in en vogue neglected local artists; decorative and applied arts, plus Baroque, Biedermeier, Art Nouveau and Art Deco furniture. Irnyi utca 27 (corner of Cukor utca). y 1/266-4016 or 1/266-4017. www.ernstgaleria.hu. AE, MC, V. Metro: M3 to Ferenciek tere. Map p 68.
Kieselbach Gallery and Auction House CENTRAL PEST
This prestigious auction house, which marks the start of Pests gallery-rich Falk Miksa utca, holds the world record for the auction of a Hungarian painting at $1.42 million for a Csontvry, who Picasso referred to as the other great painter of the 20th century. It also holds exhibitions. Szent Istvn krt 5 (corner of
Ernst Gallery for Art Deco furniture and other treasures.
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The Best Shopping
Falk Miksa utca). y 1/269-3148 or 1/269-3149. www.kieselbach.hu. AE, DC, MC, V. Tram: 2/4/6 to Jszai Mari tr. Map p 68.
Nagyhzi Galria CENTRAL PEST Prominent auction house offering everything from paintings and sculpture to furniture, carpets, objets dart, jewelry, folk art, and antiquities. Balaton utca 8 (corner of Falk Miksa utca). y 1/475-6000 or 1/475-2090. www.nagyhazi.hu. AE, DC, MC, V. Tram: 2/4/6 to Jszai Mari tr. Map p 68. Pintr Antik CENTRAL PEST Huge selection of antiques, traditional and modern paintings, chandeliers, clocks, and sculpture for sale that is spread over 1,800 sq m/5,900 sq ft. Regular auctions. Falk
Miksa utca 10 (corner of Mark utca). y 1/311-3030. www.pinter antik.hu. MC,V. Tram: 2/4/6 to Jszai Mari tr. Map p 68.
Treehugger Dans Bookstore & Caf.
Treehugger Dans Bookstore & Caf CENTRAL PEST
Choose a used paperback with a cup of Fairtrade coffee. Regular readings hosted. Csengery utca 48.
y 1/322-0774. www.treehugger.hu.
No credit cards. Metro: M1 to Oktogon. Tram: 4/6 to Oktogon. (Branches: Lzr utca 6, St utca 2.) Map p 68.
Virg Judit M-terem
Gallery and Auction House

CENTRAL PEST 19th- and 20thcentury Hungarian paintings from big names in local art, including Munkcsy, Csontvry, and RipplRnai, along with Art Nouveau ceramics from Zsolnay for sale and auction. Falk Miksa utca 30.
Ceramics Haas s Czjzek CENTRAL PEST

Look out for Hollhza with its funky Four Seasons design featuring a womans face in each season, as well as plates from Alfldi (that serve many restaurants) plus Herend and Zsolnay. Bajcsy Zsilinszky t 23 (corner of Zichy Jen utca). y 1/311-4094. AE, MC, V. Cards. Metro: M3 to Arany Jnos utca. Map p 68.
y 1/312-2071. www.mu-terem.hu. MC, V. Metro: M2 to Kossuth tr. Tram: 2/4/6 to Jszai Mari tr. Map p 68.
Books (English Language) Bestsellers CENTRAL PEST
Although Bestsellers has plenty of healthy competition these days, its multi-genre selection of new English language books is hard to beat. Also great for newspapers and magazines.
Oktber 6. utca 11. y 1/312-1295. www.bestsellers.hu. AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: M3 to Arany Jnos utca. Map p 68.
Herend CENTRAL PEST From tasteful and intricate traditional items to light and breezy, Herends legendary porcelain is always classy, and Queen Victoria was among its fans. A national treasure, albeit a pricey one. Jzsef Ndor tr 11. y 1/
317-2622. www.herend.com. AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: M1 to Vrsmarty tr. (Branch: Andrssy t 17.) Map p 68.
73
Herend Village Pottery BUDA

More cute and colorful, easy-going country-style designs from Hungarys renowned ceramics producerstill handmadewithout breaking the bank. Bem rakpart 37
(between Vitz utca and Csalogny utca). y 1/356-7899. www.herend majolika.hu. AE, MC, V. Metro: M2 to Batthyny tr. Map p 67.
Hungarian and international designers. Look out for the groovy tin robots, plastic rabbits, and golden ducks. Downstairs from Eclectick.
Irnyi utca 20. y 0620/828-9327. www.szupernova.hu. MC, V. Metro: M3 to Ferenciek tere. Map p 68.
FashionHats V50 Design Art Studio

CENTRAL PEST Not quite as daring as Philip Treacy, but Valria Fazekass designer hats are wearable yet guaranteed to turn heads. Look out for her city-themed collection. Vci
utca 50. y 1/ 3375-320. No credit cards. Metro: M3 to Ferenciek tere. (Branch: Belgrd rakpart 16.) Map p 68.
Zsolnay CENTRAL PEST Zsolnays colorful and superdurable pyrogranite tiles adorn the roofs of some of Budapests most spectacular buildings. Its iridescent eosin technology also makes unique ceramics. Vci utca 1921 (corner of Prizsi utca). y 1/266-6305. MC, V. Metro: M3 to Ferenciek tere. Map p 68.
Design Forma Bolt CENTRAL PEST You never know when a plastic duck or frog-shaped bottle opener will come in handy. Come here for these and other wacky items.
FashionHungarian Designers Eclectick

CENTRAL PEST Funky, cool but playful clothes and accessories from Eclectick, plus other Hungarian labels like Aquanauta, Camou, Heart and Roll, Red Aster, PUCC, and Kriszta Marosi. Irnyi utca
Ferenciek tere 4. y 1/266from Zsolnay. 5053. www.forma.co.hu. MC, 20 (corner of Krolyi Mihly V. Metro: M3 to Ferenciek utca). y 1/266-3341. www.eclectick. tere. Map p 68. MC, V. Metro: M3 to Ferenciek tere. Gepetto CENTRAL PEST Map p 68.
Unique ceramics
International award- winning, sleek minimalist interior design from sofas and shelves to kitchen furniture and lamps . Also some objects like the award-winning egg holder, should you wish to add a unique touch of authentic contemporary Budapest design to your home. Katona Jzsef
Herczeg CENTRAL PEST With a bit of a rock n roll feel and a touch of metrosexuality to it, Zoltn Herczegs checked and torn trousers, sleeveless shirts, and printed T-shirts are for guys who want to turn heads.
Terz krt 35. y 0620/973-0443. No credit cards. Metro: M3 to Nyugati pu. M1 to Oktogon. Tram: 4/6 to Oktogon. Map p 68.
utca 15. y 1/270-0107. www. gepetto.hu. No credit cards. Metro: M3 to Nyugati pu. Tram: 4/6 to Nyugati pu. Map p 68.
Szupernova CENTRAL PEST Fun and colorful contemporary and retro interior design objects from
Katti Zob CENTRAL PEST Internationally acclaimed Katti Zob creates flowing and classy feminine designs from top Italian fabrics, as
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The Best Shopping
well as distinctive jewelry and accessories using Zsolnay ceramics. Lacy and embroidered fine details appear in her haute couture range. Szent
Istvn krt 17. y 1/312-1865. www.kattizoob.hu. MC, V. Metro: M3 to Nyugati pu. Tram: 2/4/6 to Jszai Mari tr. Map p 68.
names like Nanushka, Use Unused, Tamara Barnuff, Je Suiss Belle, Anh Tuan. Henszlman Imre utca 1.
y 0630/556-2814. No credit cards. Metro: M3 to Ferenciek tere. Map p 68.

Sine Nomine CENTRAL PEST A shop showcasing talented young Hungarian designers exuding as much taste as the feminine dresses, beautiful knitwear, and accessories. Andrssy t 57 (between Etvs and Csengery utca). y 0620/959-9444. MC, V. Metro: M1 to Vrsmarty tr or Oktogon. Map p 68. Vasseva CENTRAL PEST A cute little shop on a side street off Liszt Ferenc tr selling va Vasss creations and interior dcor items. Original ideas are combined with interesting materials, and the result is wearable clothes but with the edge you would expect from a costume designer, stylist, and artist.
Paulay Ede utca 67. y 1/342-8159. No credit cards. Metro: M1 to Oktogon. Tram: 4/6. Map p 68.
Ltoms CENTRAL PEST Upcoming designers like Kati Ndasdi, Zuppa, Lollypopp, and Balkn Tang at bargain prices, although you might find yourself wading through some garish items before finding a gem.
Dohny utca 1618. y 1/266-5052. www.latomas.hu. MC, V. Metro: M2 to Astoria. Tram: 47/49. Map p 68.
Naray Tamas CENTRAL PEST All that glitters is not gold in this Francophile designer Tams Nrays chichi showroom in the Ybl Palace. Perhaps not using the best fabric expected of a famous designer you might just stumble upon the dress of your life. Krolyi Mihly utca 12. y 1/266-2473. www.naray company.hu. AE, MC, V. Metro: M3 to Ferenciek tere. Map p 68. Retrock Deluxe CENTRAL PEST A turn-of-the-century salon turned into a madhouse of crazy works by young Hungarian designers. Brand
Colorful Hungarian design at Eclectick.
FashionInternational Designers ByblosFashion Street

CENTRAL PEST Film producer Andy Vajna opened this exclusive 600 sq m/1,970 sq ft shop in 2007 selling Byblos, Byblos Blu, and some Rocco Barocco clothes and accessories. Dek Ferenc utca 17 (corner
of Bcsi utca). y 1/337-1908. AE, MC,V. Metro: M1/M2/M3 to Dek tr. Map p 68.
Designer Outlet BUDA Quality never goes out of fashion even if its a few seasons behind. Two hundred new items arrive every Thursday from the likes of Ralph Lauren, DKNY, Roberto Cavalli, and Mark Jacobs at approaching bargain prices. Lvhz utca 12 (Fny utca
Piac). y 1/345-4133. AE, M, V.
75
something on sale. Vci utca 50 (corner of Nyri Pl utca). y 1/3181119. www.principe.hu. AE, M, V. Metro: M3 to Ferenciek tere. Map p 68.
FashionJewelry Varga Design CENTRAL PEST

Handmade jewelry based on Mikls Vargas patented approach to imitate the image of sun reflecting on dewdrops collecting on a cobweb. Like a spiders web, each item is unique. Haris Kz 6. y 1/318-4089.
www.vargadesign.hu. AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: M3 to Ferenciek tere. Map p 68.
Drop by Iguana for Secondhand clothes and accessories.
Wladis Galria s Mterem CENTRAL PEST Peter
Metro: M2 to Moszkva tr. Tram: 4/6 to Szna tr. Map p 67.
Heaven Store CENTRAL PEST The first high-flying multibrand store in Budapest offering personal appointments and a good selection of brands including Patrizia Pepe, Replay, Chlo, G-Star Raw, and Stella McCartney among others. Fehrhaj utca 1214.
Vladimirs original jewelry reflects traditional and ancient designs. Chunky but classy sculpted pieces made from quality silver with rings starting from around Ft 20,000, necklaces about Ft 30,000. Falk
Miksa utca 13 (corner of Balaton utca). y 1/354-0834. www.wladis galeria.hu. MC, V. Tram: 2/4/6 to Jszai Mari tr. Map p 68.
y 1/266-8335. www.heavenstore. hu. AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: M1/M2/M3 to Dek tr. Map p 68.
Louis Vuitton CENTRAL PEST Just a few steps away from the opera house this exclusive shop offers a stunning collection of bags and suitcases for those who know the difference between a real and a fake LV bag. Andrssy t 24. y 1/373-0487. AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: M1 to Opera. Map p 68. Principe Divat Szalon CENTRAL PEST A good selection of the latest collection of luxury brands such as Dolce & Gabbana, John Galliano, Just Cavalli, and Ferre. Plus, if youre lucky, you might find
FashionSecondhand Cinkli OUTER BUDA The

largest stock of retro vintage clothes is quite a way from downtown but youre sure to find something that will still set contemporary pulses racing. Repltri t 6. 8/D.
y 0630/456-7018. www.majomke trec.hu. MC, V. Tram: 41 to Repltr. Map p 67.

Iguana CENTRAL PEST If its a
Jesus or Elvis T-shirt youre missing, pop in to Iguana. Mainly secondhand clothes, shoes, and retro accessories for sale. Krdy Gyula
utca 9. y 1/317-1627. www.iguana retro.hu. No credit cards. Metro: M3 to Klvin tr. Tram: 4/6. (Branch: Tompa utca 1. y 1/215-3475.) Map p 70.
76
The Best Shopping
FashionShoes Bizanc Boutique CENTRAL

PEST The best assortment of the seasons designer shoes for men and women from Jimmy Choo, John Richmond, Moschino, Anna Sui, Giuseppe Zanotti, GML, and more, with handbags to match. Fur and leather coats, too. Vci utca 9. y 1/317-8368. AE,
MC, V . Metro: M1 to Vrsmarty tr. M2/M3 to Dek tr. Map p 68.
Flea Markets Ecseri Piac OUTER PEST

Remarkable flea market packed with some quality antiques and no end of Socialist-era bric--brac. Paintings, furniture, soda siphons, rocking horses, Zsolnay ceramics, old motorbikes, even antique BMW bubble cars: its all there. Bargaining expected. Nagykrsi t 156.
Tisza Cip CENTRAL PEST Retro sneakers with the trademark T on each design from Hungarys very own casual shoemaker. Also, look out for funky tops and jackets. Theres another store in the Westend shopping mall (see p 78). Kroly krt 1 (corner of Rkczi t). y 1/266-3055. www.tiszacipo.hu. AE, MC, V. Metro: M2 to Astoria. Tram: 47/49 to Astoria. Map p 68. Vass Shoes CENTRAL PEST Handmade shoes that fit perfectly, boast amazing quality of material and precise craftsmanship. Lszl Vass has managed to turn the old traditional shoemaking profession into a modern business. Harris kz 2. y 1/318-2375. www.vass-cipo.hu. AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: M3 to Ferenciek tere. Map p 68.
Bric-a-brac at Ecseri Piac flea market.
y 1/348-3200. Bus: 54 to Alvinc utca. Map p 70.

Jzsefvrosi Piac OUTER PEST While the bottom is likely to fall out of the jeans you buy quicker than it takes you to walk around this sprawling Chinese market, it feels pretty close to being in China. Good Chinese food. Kbnyai t 2123.
y 1/313-8890. Tram: 28 to Orczy tr. Map p 70.

PECSA Flea Market OUTER PEST With the abundance of fake brands, chunky transistor radios, Russian dolls, medals, and so on, I feel momentarily transported back to pre-1989 Budapest when I visit this market. Open mornings at the weekend. Zichy Mihly utca. y 1/363-3730. Metro: M1 to Szchenyi frd. Map p 70.
77
Flowers Arioso CENTRAL PEST

Creative arrangements verging on designer, and just the ticket if youve been invited to dinner. Much more than flowers, Arioso is also an interior designer. Kirly utca 9. y 1/2663555. www.arioso.hu. Closed first 3 weeks of Aug. AE, MC, V. Metro: M1/M2/M3 to Dek tr. Map p 68.
this neighborhood market lacks the fin-de-sicle charm of some of its peers, but makes up for it in the range of Hungarian agricultural produce. For fine cheese, hams, and salami head to the top level.
Lvhz utca 12. y 1/345-4101. Metro: M2 to Moszkva tr. Tram: 4/6 to Szna tr. Map p 67.
Great Market Hall CENTRAL PEST Aside Folk Art from the archi Folkart Centecture (see trum CENTRAL p 17, bullet 3) PEST Folk art this is a great products includplace to pick up ing embroidered Hungaricums like tablecloths, painted powdered paprika, dolls, and ceramics tubes of paprika for those who dont want paste, tins of chestnut to haggle in return for guarpuree, and goose liver. Folkart Centrum. anteed quality from serious Plenty of painted folk art artisans. Vci utca 58. y 1/ and tablecloths, too. Vmhz krt 318-4697. AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: M3 13. y 1/366-3300. Credit cards not to Ferenciek tere. Map p 68. widely used. Tram: 2/47/49 to Fvm tr. Map p 68. Katalin Hampel CENTRAL PEST Hungarian and European folk cosFunky Gifts tumes adapted for the modern Repl Tehn (Flying woman, although some outfits, as Cow) CENTRAL PEST The Flying well as the menswear, are more the Cow is jammed with zany gifts from preserve of period ballgoers. Kirlyi seriously cool pink grinning BudPl utca 11. y 0620/597-0893. No dhas to Geisha ashtrays, funky credit cards. Metro: M3 to Klvin tr. fridge magnets, Playboy bottle Map p 68. openers, and cheeky naked mugs. Hajs utca 19. y 0620/204-5574. Food Markets www.repulotehen.hu. MC, V. Metro: Bio Market BUDA Taste just M1 to Opera. (Branch: Mammut how fresh Hungarian fruit and veg Shopping Mall.) Map p 68. can be at this Saturday morning organic produce extravaganza that Volt Bolt CENTRAL PEST runs from 6am to noon or 1pm Cool T-shirts and accessories from should there be enough shoppers. the organizers of the Sziget Festival, The fruit juices are sublime. Csrsz Budapests mega music festival, utca 18. y 1/214-7005. No credit many of which relate to the Sziget cards. Tram: 61 to Csrsz utca. or other festivals. Klauzl tr 14 Map p 67. (corner of Akcfa utca). y 0620/ 385-0827. www.voltbolt.hu. MC, V. Fny utca piac BUDA Made Tram: 4/6 to Kirly utca. Map p 68. from 1970s-style iron and girders,
78
The Best Shopping
Malls
Arena Plaza OUTER PEST Just when Budapest seemed to reach saturation point with mega malls, along came Arena Plaza with more space and brands than anybody else, plus the first IMAX cinema in Hungary, replete with VIP booths. Kerepesi t 9. y 1/8807000. www.arenaplaza.hu. Metro: M2 to Keleti Pu or Stadionok. Map p 70. Mammut BUDA Divided into two main parts: Mammut 1 and 2, Mammut, i.e. mammoth, never gets too overwhelming in proportions and is more easy-going than Westend (see below) but still packed with shops. The roof level of Mammut 2 is home to a Golds Gym.
Lvhz utca 26. y 1/345-8020. www.mammut.hu. Metro: M2 to Moszkva tr. Tram: 4/6 to Szna tr. Map p 67.
Westend City Center CENTRAL PEST You could be fooled into thinking youre in a big American mall herethat is until sub-standard Hungarian service reminds you youre in Hungary. Busy and popular with a huge number of Hungarian and international brands to choose from. Vci t 13. y 1/238-7777. www.westend.hu. Metro: M3 to Nyugati pu. Tram: 4/6 to Nyugati pu. Map p 68.
Music Wave CENTRAL PEST Run by

an affable music lover, who I often run into at gigs, Wave is stacked with Hungarian and international alternative, indie, dance, ethno, and jazz CDs, DVDs, and LPs that are hard to find elsewhere. Rvay utca
4. y 1/331-0781. No credit cards. Metro: M3 to Arany Jnos utca. Map p 68.
MOM Park BUDA Spacious and modern mall, home to the only Budapest branch of high-end childrens clothes specialist Jacadi, gourmet food shops, popular Italian restaurant Dallello, and the Bavarian Paulaner Brauhaus beer hall (see p 119). Alkots utca 53.
Perfumes Le Parfum CENTRAL PEST

Custom-made fragrances from the philosophical and talented Frencheducated perfumer Zsolt Zlyomi. Also, limited edition high-end perfumes from the likes of Burberry, Bottega Veneta, and Clive Christian.
Cukor utca 1. y 0630/470-0248. No
y 1/487-5500. www.mompark.hu. Tram: 61 to MOM Park. Map p 67.

Fresh Hungarian fruit at the Bio Market.
79
back home. Also good for Magyar specialties. Impressive wine selection. Balassi Blint utca 7.
y 1/373-0028. www.culinaris.hu. AE, MC, V. Tram: 2/4/6 to Jszai Mari tr. Branches: Hunyadi tr 3 & Perc utca 8. Map p 68.
Pick Mrkaruhz CENTRAL PEST Although youll see Picks definitive tliszalmi winter salami all over town, this shop stocks many other delicious Pick salamis, some spicy others smooth, and other meat products. Cafeteria upstairs.
Kossuth Lajos tr 9. y 1/331-7783. No credit cards. Metro: M2 to Kossuth Lajos tr. Tram: 2 to Kossuth Lajos tr. Map p 68.
Jewish gifts and art at Judaica Galria.
T. Nagy Tams Cheese Shop CENTRAL PEST Outstanding
credit cards. Metro: M3 to Ferenciek tere. Map p 68.
Religious Ecclesia CENTRAL PEST Next to

a pretty Franciscan church, this is the place to come for religious objects and hand-painted religious icons from Hungary and further east. Ferenciek tere 7. y 1/3173061. MC, V. Metro: M3 to Ferenciek tere. Map p 68.
ensemble of Hungarian and international cheeses, particularly French. Although Hungary is less renowned for cheese, look out for the excellent local goat cheese. Gerlczy utca
3. y 1/317-4268. MC, V. Metro: M1/M2/M3 to Dek tr. Map p 68.
Culinaris for international foodstuffs.
Judaica Galria CENTRAL PEST Teddy bears wearing kippas (skullcaps), Dead Sea beauty treatments, and recipe books feature among the eclectic Jewish gift items. It also serves as a serious Jewish arts gallery and auction house. Wesselnyi utca 13. y 1/
267-8502. MC, V. Metro: M2 to Astoria. Map p 68.
Specialty Foods Culinaris CENTRAL PEST

Packed out with hungry expats relishing the range of international foodstuffs that they take for granted
80
The Best Shopping
Toys
Fakopncs CENTRAL PEST Creative Hungarian-made wooden toys to make kids think beyond the realm of the X-box and Barbie doll. Excellent for gifts and with a flawless safety record, too. Jzsef krt 50. y 1/3331866. www. fakopancs.com. No credit cards. Tram: 4 or 6 to Baross utca. (Branches inc. Baross utca 46.) Map p 70. Ktmack Jtkgalria CENTRAL PEST Old-fashioned puppets and dolls, wooden toys, and game-themed paintings are on sale along with skill-enhancing activity and board games at the Two Bears Toy Gallery. Magyar utca 18. y 1/266-0928. www.ketmacko.hu. No credit cards. Metro: M2 to Astoria. Map p 68.
Plinka fruit brandy bottles.
1/341-0646. www.bork ereskedes.hu. MC, V. Metro: M2 to Astoria. Tram: 47/49 to Astoria. Map p 68.
Magyar Plinka
Hza (House of Hungarian Plinka)

CENTRAL PEST Comprehensive collection of Hungarys fruit brandy known as Plinka, now an EU-protected name. Plinka ranges from the seriously fiery to the soft and fruity. Rkczi t 17.
y 1/338-4219. MC, V. Metro: M2 to Blaha Lujza tr. Map p 68.

Monarchia CENTRAL PEST Monarchia sells its own range of wines made in Eger by the talented winemaker Tams Pk that are exported to the US. Also represents Hungarian and boutique international wineries. Kinizsi utca 3036.
y 1/456-9898. www.monarchia borok.hu. AE, MC, V. Metro: M3 to Ferenc krt. Tram: 4/6 to Ferenc krt. Map p 70.
Prshz CENTRAL PEST A wine shop on touristy Vci utca would normally make me wary, but this is a good one, selling a wide range of Hungarian wines plus some vintages of top labels, long since sold out elsewhere. Vci utca 10. y 1/2661100. www.preshaz.hu. MC, V. Metro: M1 to Vrsmarty tr. Map p 68.
Wine & Spirits Bortrsasg (Wine Society) BUDA Strong selection of

Hungarian wines from most Hungarian regions with knowledgeable staff on hand. Other branches include one opposite St. Stephens Basilica at Szent Istvn tr 3. Batthyny
utca 59. y 1/212-2569. www. bortarsasag.hu. AE, MC, V. Metro: M2 to Moszkva tr. Tram: 4/6 to Szna tr. Map p 67.
In Vino Veritas CENTRAL PEST More old-fashioned looking than the slick Bortrsasg (see above), Veritas also represents an impressive batch of quality-driven Hungarian winemakers. Dohny utca 5862. y 1/341-3174 or
Zwack Shop OUTER PEST Zwack makes the ubiquitous bitter Hungarian liqueur Unicum that youll either love or hate. I prefer the deliciously fruity Nemes Plinka (fruit brandy) range and its boutique wine range. Soroksri t 26. y 1/4762383. www.zwack.hu. AE, MC, V. Tram: 2 to Haller utca. Map p 70.
The Best of the Outdoors
82
City Park
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83
City Park
his oasis of green is flanked by a multitude of old-fashioned attractions including a circus, a zoo, and an amusement park that features Europes longest wooden rollercoaster that will remind Western travelers of the more innocent time they grew up in.
START: M1 to Szchenyi Frd. All the points of interest are served by the Szchenyi Frd metro station but everything is also accessible from the Heroes Square (Hsk tere) metro station.
The old-style Vidmpark.
1 = Circus. Lions,
tigers, and bears, and elephants, too. However, this 120-year-old Budapest institution seeks to embrace the age of animal rights with an increasing reliance on its talented human performers. Three different troupes feature classic circus performances from clowns, acrobats, trapeze artists, and tightrope walkers. @ 1 hr 30 min. llatkerti
krt 12/a. y 1/343-8300. www. maciva.hu. Admission Ft 1,200 Ft 2,400. Performances WedSun (excluding Sep). More performances at weekends.
2 = Vidmpark (Amusement Park). Passing by, it

looks a sorry excuse for an amusement park but step in and youre transported back to a charming, old-fashioned world of well-kept and
Classic CourtyardsBehind the Citys Grand Faades

As youre walking around the downtown do look out for open doorways of the magnificent buildings and have a peek in. Each of Budapests stunning Habsburg-era townhouses, and there are many, tell their own story on the inside where they really come to life. If you get stuck, theres always a button to press that lets you out.
84
Hidden City Squares

While peace and quiet is harder to find in Pest than it is in leafy Buda, you dont have to trek out to City Park or Margaret Island to experience what is known as park life as a secluded spot is often never more than a few corners away. The cute park at Honvd tr with its trimmed lawn and neat flowerbeds is tucked away close to the busy Pest thoroughfare of Szent Istvn krt but is totally peaceful, bar the sounds of kids playing. Theres also concrete ping-pong tables with iron nets that may be an unglamorous hangover from Communism but they can stand all weather and make for a good game. Youll run into English speakers here and also on the playgrounds of Szabadsg tr. Although Szabadsg tr, literally Freedom Square, may be synonymous with the violence after the riots of 2006 (see p 47, bullet 3) and repression in the form of the Soviet War Memorial, this big open space, surrounded by colossal buildings that serve to block out the bustle, is a superbly relaxing place and you can contemplate the awesome aspect of the citys biggerthan-thou architecture. Still on the Pest side, Kroly kert also belies its central location close to hectic Astoria, transcending metropolitan modernity and transporting you back to Budapests early 20thcentury heyday. Step through the wrought-iron gate and feel at the center of a living bastion of old-world charm.
restored attractions. Among the star attractions is the centegenarian wooden merry-go-round, which churns out swirlingly authentic Wurlitzer musicyou have to ride the horses to keep the old girl moving. Budapests Happy Park boasts the longest wooden rollercoaster in Europe, which is nice to ride compared with more modern versions. The laser dodgems show that the park is not entirely stuck in the past. Go-karting costs an extra Ft 600 a go. Take toddlers of 3 and under to the mini amusement park thats attached. Youll find
playgrounds for younger infants within the City Park. It also has an interesting pay-according-to-height entry policy. @ 23 hr. llatkerti
krt 1416. y 1/363-8310. www. vidampark.hu. Ft 3,900 for people over 140cm, 100cm140cm Ft 2,900, free for under 100cm. Daily Jun & Aug 10am8pm, MaySep 11am 7pm, mid-MarOct 12am6pm. Closed early Novmid-Mar.
3 =
Vrosligeti Mjgplya (City Park Ice Rink). As the chill of
winter hits, the fairytale atmosphere of the ice rink, with a pavilion on one side and the
Monkey about at the zoo.
85
City Park
Rowing on Vajdahunyad Castle Moat.
Vajdahunyad Castle (p 13, bullet 2) on the other, keeps the locals coming to the City Park. Gliding along the iceor, if youre anything like me, falling overis quite an experience with the Castle looming above. No need to worry about global warming here, just remember to wrap up well. @ 2 hr. Olof Palme stny 5.
Vrosligeti Srstor. An oldfashioned beer tent bang in the right place, in the middle of the park, just when you need it. Ideal for a sausage (kolbsz), pretzels (perec), or the savory scone known as pogcsa. For a more Boho setting head to Kertem (see p 123).
Vrosligeti Stny. y 1/363-1904. $.
y 1/364-0013. www.mujegpalya.hu.
Ft 700 per session weekdays, Ft 970 on weekends. MonFri 9am1pm, 4pm8pm. Metro: M1 to Hsk tere.
6 = Row in the Vajdahunyad Castle Moat. It may be a folly and an eclectic mix of Hungarian architectural styles across the ages, but the Vajdahunyad Castle sure makes an attractive backdrop for a spot of easy rowing. Pick up a boat opposite the Castle entrance.
4 = llatkert (Zoo).
The first time I came here in the 1990s I felt indignant when I saw the cramped conditions and the sorrylooking, stir-crazy elephants. However, credit where credits due, this place has become much more animal-friendly and is a nice place to bring the family to monkey about. Im fascinated with the big rock that looks just like the one out of Spielbergs Close Encounters and the domain of gorillas and orangutans. Kids will also love the petting zoo. The Art Nouveau entrance, with its Oriental and Indian aspects and fine animal carvings and sculptures, is a suitably impressive teaser for whats inside. @ 2 hr. llatkerti krt 612.
@ 30 min1 hr. No phone. Ft 700

1
2 hr, Ft 1,300 1 hr.
7 = Idkerk (Time
Wheel). Unveiled as Hungary entered a new epoch in joining the EU on May 1, 2004, public interest in this, one of the worlds largest hourglasses, has dwindled. However, this clock isnt built for short-term hype. It doesnt actually tell the time but it is an impressive fusion of ancient techniques and state-of-the-art technology thats built to last the ravages of time. Behind the Mcsarnok.
y 1/273-4900. www.zoobudapest. com. Admission Ft 1,690. 9am7pm in summer. 9am6pm in winter.
86
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87
Buda Hills
udapest is hardly a small city and has a population of around 2 million. However, I love the fact that you get up to the fresh air of the hills within minutes. This best of the hills route provides a sampler but I encourage you to jump off wherever the mood takes you. START: Tram 56 to Vrosmajor to connect with the
Cog Wheel Railway to start your ascent.
1 = Ride the Fogaskerek

(Cog Wheel Railway). The route
to the Buda Hills is gradual but the feeling of being dragged up at an angle as the city starts to give way to more and more green certainly sets the tone. Take the cog to Szchenyi hegy where you can connect with the Childrens Railway (bullet 2) by walking along Golfplya utca. Tram:
56 to Vrosmajor. The service now runs under the number 60 according to the Budapest Public Transport Company. Runs from 5am11:10pm.
2 = Gyermekvast (Childrens Railway). Theres

nothing like running a railway for instilling discipline and that was the philosophy behind the founding of this narrow gauge railway, once run by pioneers, a kind of Communist youth initiative. Included among the ranks of the pioneers is the current
Ride the Cog Wheel Railway.
Socialist Prime Minister, Ferenc Gyurcsny. Today children still run the show, although like in the past, Im relieved to know that adults actually drive the trains and do the signaling. However, I do find it reassuring how seriously these kids take their jobs. Its a great way of traversing the Buda Hills and I recommend you just jump off wherever takes your fancy; otherwise continue to Jnos hegy. Be warned, dont mess with these kids, theyre stricter than adultswho knows what theyll do if you dont buy a ticket. A steam engine runs at weekends (p 39, bullet 3). @ 17 min
to Jnos hegy. Szchenyi hegy. Ft 450 one way.
3 = Jnos-hegy.
Budapests highest point is topped off by the Erzsbet lookout tower. Its the work of that man Schulek again, he of Fishermans Bastion (p 62) fame and renovator of St. Matthias (p 62), and youll certainly see his signatory dreaminess here.
@ 30 min.
4 Libeg. Hang on and be
whisked down 262m/860ft from Jnos hegy through the forest by this clunky but cool chairlift. Although its not specifically a ski lift, crafty locals will take their skis up to the top on it when theres snow. Alternatively, you could also ascend this way to reach Jnos hegy from the terminus at Zugligeti t 97.
@ 15 min. y 1/391-0352. Ft 500

one way. Bus: 155 to Zugligeti t.
88
Margaret Island
0 0 0.25 km 1/4 mi
H RPD HD
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89
Margaret Island
eafy Margaret Island (Margitsziget) is a haven for morning runners and midnight lovers. Located minutes from the downtown in the middle of the mighty Danube between Buda and Pest, locals come to escape the traffic and bustle of the city. It has also become an increasingly good place to party, now that an array of fun summer outdoor venues have sprung up. What would saintly Princess Margit (Margaret)given to God by her father, Bla IV, for sparing his country from the Mongolsmake of all the hedonism on her hallowed island? While people flock here in summer, I find it much more tranquil and idyllic in the winter months, especially when fresh snow falls. START: Tram 4/6 to Margitsziget or take bus 26 which stops
at several points on the island and you can hop on and off as you wish.
1 Sziget Klub. Entering from the central Margit hd, after about 100m on the left you come to my favorite tennis club. It may say Only for Members, but if they have a court free youll get a game; sadly its the only remaining tennis club on the island. Theres also a plunge pool in which to soak tired bones after a hard game. Recently renovated from its former high-end Socialist retro look, the clubhouse now has more of a lounge room feel. Either way, its still a lovely place to play tennis and also has a new summer terrace bar that opened in summer 2008 (see Best Nightlife, p 123). y 0620/420-7333.
Bring your own rackets.
Locals lazing around the Musical Fountain.
when it marked a hundred years since Budapest became one entity.
2 Centenary Monument. Carry

on straight and youll be greeted by the twisty Centenary Monument whose intertwining symbolism represents the fusion of Buda and Pest. It has stood on this spot since 1972
3 Musical Fountain. A bit further on youll come to the curious spectacle of the musical fountain, which really requires no explanation other than it spurts out classical music intermittently. The spray carried by the breeze on to
Hajgyri-sziget
Boatyard Island is the next island upriver from Margaret Island and has big green open spaces that are given over to the Sziget Festival for one week each year (see p 161). Its also home to some of the capitals glitziest nightclubs (see Nightlife p 109). For golf enthusiasts, theres also a driving range.
90
A River Runs Through It the River Danube

The banks of the mighty but murky Danube tend to be dominated by roads, but the stretch on the Pest side just north of the Chain Bridge to Margaret Bridge makes for a pleasant stroll, as does the whole of Margaret Island. Boat trips are a good way of viewing the city from another perspective and there are a number of boat operators offering tours from Vigad tr on the Pest bank.
your boiling frame is a godsend in the heat of summer for cooling off.
4 = Bathing. Walk to
the Buda side from the fountain and youll find the Hajs Alfrd Uszoda swimming complex (see p 29), which hosted a recent European Swimming Championship. Further upstream, also facing the Buda side, is the altogether more relaxed holiday camp-like Palatinus (see p 29). For more pampered but indoor thermal bathing head to the Danubuis Health Spa Resort Margitsziget close to rpd hd. (6:30am9:30pm
daily. Admission Ft 6,500 (weekdays), Ft 7,700 (weekend).)
structure. The watertower is not currently open but a drink at the theater bar directly underneath is a good way to appreciate it. The bar is the most laidback theater bar I know and one for which flip flops are highly appropriate. @ 10 min.
7 Japanese Garden. This cute cranny provides a nice diversion for kids who can spot varied species of fish, turtles, and frogs to the trickling sound of the waterfall.
@ 1530 min.
8 = Musical Well. The last
time I checked this little well out, it was actually talking but hang around until music starts pumping out. @ 15 min.
The watertower dating back to 1911.
5 Abbey Ruins. The foundations of the 13th-century St. Margarets Abbey are located roughly on the middle of the island, Pest side. While theres been some obvious mortaring going on and some modern additions, it is still a nice place to contemplate the past. About another 100m further on, in an upstream direction, theres a replica functioning church. @ 15 min. 6 Watertower. The watertower stands as a beacon of Hungarys industrial prowess at its time of construction in 1911. Designer and Budapest Engineering University Professor Szilrd Zielinski managed to add a few Art Nouveau touches to the striking 57m/187ft-high
The Best Dining
92
The Best Dining
Dining Best Bets

Best Balkan
Kafana Grill Restaurant $$$ Srhz utca 4 (p 105)
Best Italian
Faustos tterem $$$$ Szkely Mihly utca 2 (p 104); Pva $$$$ Four Seasons Gresham Palace Roosevelt tr 56
Best Bistro
Caf Kr $$ Sas utca 1 (p 99)
Best Burger
Gresham Kvhz $$$ Four Seasons Gresham Palace Hotel Roosevelt tr 5-6 (p 104); Balletcip Hajs utca 14 $ (p 103)
Best Pizza
Il Terzo Cerchio $$ Dohny utca 40 (p 104); Trattoria Toscana $$ Belgrd rakpart 13 (p 108)
Best Burrito
Arriba Taqueria $ Terz krt 25 (p 103)
Best Retro
Kdr $ Klauzl tr 10 (p 100); Menza Liszt Ferenc tr 2 (p 102)
Best Bargain Gourmet

Csalagny 26 $ Csalogny utca 26 (p 99)
Best Solet (Jewish Bean Stew)

Flemle $$ Kfarag utca 5 (p 99)
Best Celebrity Chef Meal

Matteo $$$ Pasarti t 100 (p 102)
Best Sushi
Fuji $$$$$$$ Csatrka utca 54 (p 104); Okuyama no Sushi $$$ Kolosy tr 56 (p 106)
Best Cheap n Cheerful Goulash

Pozsonyi kisvendgl $ Radnti Mikls utca 38 (p 102)
Best Wine Restaurant

Klassz $$ Andrssy t 41 (p 101)
Retro styling at Menza.
Best Chinese
Momotaro Ramen $$ Szchenyi utca 16 (p 106)
Best Courtyard Dining

Fszek $$$ Kertsz utca 36 (p 99)
Best Curry
Indigo $$ Jkai utca 13 (p 105); Taj Mahal $$ Szondi utca 40 (p 108)
Best Danube Dining

Spoon $$$ Moored opposite Hotel Intercontinental (p 107)
Best Fin de Sicle Hungarian Gourmet

Vadrzsa $$$$ Pentelei Molnr utca 5 (p 102)
Best Fusion
Baraka $$$ Andrssy Hotel MaMaison Andrssy t 111 (p 103)
93
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Outer Pest Dining

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94
The Best Dining
Central Pest Dining

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The Best Dining
Budapest Dining A to Z
Hungarian Alabrdos BUDA HUNGARIAN
Gourmet heaven in a Gothic setting with unique takes on Hungarian cuisine from only the best in local fresh ingredients. Orszghz utca 2. y 1/
356-0851. Entrees Ft 3,300Ft 6,500. AE, MC, V. Dinner MonFri. Lunch & dinner Sat. Bus: 16/16A1/116 to Szenthromsg tr. Map p 96. Ft 1,500Ft 4,000. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Metro: M1 to Hsk tere. Map p 93.
Biarritz CENTRAL PEST HUNGARIAN/INTERNATIONAL A few steps away from Parliament, this stylish eatery does classic Hungarian and continental dishes well, but excels in merging the two. Nice summer terrace. Kossuth Lajos tr 18 (entrance
on Balassi Blint utca). y 1/3114413. Entrees Ft 2,950Ft 5,450. AE, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Tram: 2 to Szalay utca. Map p 94.
Arcade Bistro BUDA HUNGARIAN/CONTINENTAL Stylishly modern sister of Pests Caf Kr (see p 99), ups the gourmet stakes with delicacies like Mangalica pork with dried tomato risotto. Kiss Jnos Altbornagy utca 38. y 1/225-1696. Entrees Ft 2,490Ft 4,470. MC, V. Lunch & dinner MonSat. Tram: 59/61 to Csrsz utca. Map p 96.
Bock Bistro CENTRAL PEST HUNGARIAN/MEDITERRANEAN Luxury Latin look with tasty tapas and succulent meat, doubling as a shop for Villny producer Jzsef Bocks wines. Corinthia Grand
Hotel Royal, Erzsbet krt 4349.
Bagolyvr OUTER PEST HUNGARIAN Run by some 20 women, the Owls Castle does Magyar cuisine, in an early 20th-century setting, as a Hungarian mom makes it. This sister of gourmet Gundel (p 100) is housed in a mock Transylvanian castle. llatkerti t 2. y 1/468-3110.
Classic Hungarian served up at Biarritz.
y 1/321-0340. Entrees Ft 3,100Ft

5,100. MC, V. Lunch & dinner MonSat. Metro: M1 to Oktogon; tram: 4/6 to Oktogon. Map p 94.
Borbrsg OUTER PEST HUNGARIAN With 60 wines available by the glass, the Court of Wines is ideal for sampling local wines alongside quality fusion-free Hungarian dishes.
Csarnok tr 5. y 1/219-0902. Entrees Ft 2,250Ft 4,250. AE, MC, V. Lunch & dinner MonSat. Metro: M3 to Klvin tr. Tram: 47/49 to Klvin tr. Map p 93.
Caf Bouchon CENTRAL PEST HUNGARIAN/FRENCH Welcoming bistro with Art Nouveau influences in the dcor and new takes on Hungarian cuisine and continental favorites. Zichy Jen utca 33. y 1/353-4094. Entrees Ft 2,100Ft 4,690. No credit cards. Lunch & dinner MonSat. Metro: M1 to Oktogon, M3 to Nyugati pu. Map p 94.
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Csalogny utca 26. y 1/201-7892. Entrees Ft 1,400Ft 4,000. MC, V. Lunch & dinner TuesFri, dinner only Sat; closed 20 Jul5 Aug. Metro: M2 to Batthyny tr. Map p 96.
Fszek CENTRAL PEST HUNGARIAN This artists club, with its cloistered courtyard, is steeped in atmosphere. Excellent sztrapacska (flour and potato dumplings with bacon and ewe cheese). Kertsz utca
36. y 1/322-6043. Entrees Ft 1,500Ft 2,300. No credit cards. Lunch & dinner daily. Tram: 4/6 to Kirly utca. Map p 94.
Try Villny producer Jzsef Bocks wine at the Bock Bistro.
Caf Kr CENTRAL PEST HUNGARIAN/CONTINENTAL Buzzing bistro and although its a bit cramped, plenty of bums on seats ensures ever-consistent Hungarian and continental fare. Sas utca 17. y 1/311-0053. Entrees Ft 1,870Ft 4,190. No credit cards. Lunch & dinner MonSat. Metro: M3 to Arany Jnos utca. Map p 94. Csalagny 26 BUDA HUNGARIAN/CONTINENTAL Remarkable value lunch menu makes this plain-looking bistro a good bet, although its more expensive in the evening. Dishes are prepared using only fresh seasonal ingredients.
Caf Kr.
Firksz CENTRAL PEST HUNGARIAN Fine cuts are prepared from refined recipes at Firksz. Old newspaper articles are pasted to the walls and a piano player enhances the oldworld atmosphere in the evening. Ttra utca 18. y 1/450-1119. Entrees Ft 1,490Ft 4,900. MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Tram: 2/4/6 to Jszai Mari tr. Map p 94. Flemle OUTER PEST HUNGARIAN/JEWISH The Nightingale serves a non-kosher blend of Hungarian and Jewish cuisine that predates modern fusion trends in a warm family setting. Kfarag utca 5. y 1/266-7947. Entrees Ft 1,900Ft 4,700. MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Metro: M2 to Blaha Lujza tr. Tram: 4/6 to Blaha Lujza tr. Map p 93.
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The Best Dining
Gerlczy Kvhz CENTRAL PEST HUNGARIAN CONTINENTAL Lovely Parisian-style caf serving homemade pastry for breakfast and creative lunch and dinner offerings with some nice twists. Gerlczy utca 1. y 1/235-0953. Entrees Ft 1,890Ft 3,900. AE, MC, V. Breakfast, lunch & dinner daily. Metro: M1/ M2/M3 to Dek tr. Map p 94. Gundel OUTER PEST HUNGARIAN A feast of the finest china, tablecloths, artworks, and splendor entice you before you even get to the food. Gundel has been moving into the present serving Hungarian cuisine in a lighter but still expressive way via better use of seasonal ingredients. If you dont feel like dressing up, Gundels 1894 Wine Cellar is more subterranean. llatkerti t 2. y 1/468-4040. Entrees Ft 3,900Ft 10,620. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Metro: M1 to Hsk tere. Map p 93.
cabbage also feature. Dob utca 35.
y 1/342-1072. Entrees Ft 1,500Ft

1,800. AE, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Map p 94.
Haxen Kirly OUTER PEST HUNGARIAN/BAVARIAN Pinepaneling and wooden furnishings galore welcome carnivores with generous portions of quality goose liver, goose leg, wild boar, and pork knuckle. Kirly utca 100. y 1/3516793. Entrees Ft 2,500Ft 3,500. AE, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Metro: M1/M2/M3 to Dek tr. Map p 93. Kacsa Vendgl BUDA HUNGARIAN Hungary is known for its delectable duck, old-fashioned hospitality and, once upon a time, for quality service. You get all this and more at Duck. F utca 75. y 1/201-9992. Entrees Ft 3,600Ft 5,600. AE, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Metro: M2 to Battyhny tr. Map p 96. Kdr tkezde CENTRAL PEST HUNGARIAN/JEWISH NonKosher, Jewish-like crispy goose leg with red cabbage served in a real retro setting where guests often share tables. The solet bean stew and matzo ball soup are on the menu Saturdays only. Klauzl tr 10.
Hannas Kosher Kitchen CENTRAL PEST HUNGARIAN KOSHER Hungarian classics, like the simple but crispy and succulent Kosher chicken fried in breadcrumbs, are served in this atmospheric, no-frills 1970s-style dining room. Roast duck, beef goulash, and stuffed
Old world charm at Firksz.
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include goose liver cream soup.

Pozsonyi t 12. y 1/450-0829. Entrees Ft 2,000Ft 3,000. AE, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Tram: 2/4/6 to Jszai Mari tr. Map p 94.
Kispipa CENTRAL PEST HUNGARIAN Traditional Hungarian and old-world continental dishes with lots of game on the menu. Expect a refined pre-war vibe and enjoy the piano player after 7pm. Akcfa utca
38. y 1/342-2587 or 1/342-3969. Entrees Ft 980Ft 5,560. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Metro: M1 to Oktogon. Tram: 4/6 to Wesselnyi utca. Map p 94.
Seasonal Hungarian dishes at Gundel.
y 1/321-3622. Entrees Ft 750 Ft 1,800. No credit cards. Lunch TuesSat. Tram: 4/6 to Kirly utca. Map p 94.
Krolyi tterem-Kvhz CENTRAL PEST HUNGARIAN/ MEDITERRANEAN Good value restaurant-cum-coffee house in the grand Krolyi Palace featuring a restored Biedermeier interior and a sublime courtyard. Krolyi Mihly utca 16. y 1/328-0240. Entrees Ft 1,250Ft 3,250. AE, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Metro: M3 to Ferenciektere or Klvin tr. Map p 94. Kisbuda Gyngye BUDA HUNGARIAN High-end Hungarian with continental and Mediterranean twists like goose liver risotto served in a charming early 20thcentury setting thats well worth the trek out to buda. Kenyeres u. 34.
Klassz CENTRAL PEST HUNGARIAN/CONTINENTAL Foie gras risottos, lamb knuckle, and Mangalica pig steak feature at this creative and hip minimalist-designed wine restaurant. No bookings so turn up early. Andrssy t 41. No
phone. Entrees Ft 1,490Ft 2,890. AE, MC, V. Lunch & dinner MonSat; lunch only Sun. Metro: M1 to Opera. Map p 94.
Kleves CENTRAL PEST HUNGARIAN Hearty Hungarian meat dishes plus Jewish, international, and veggie options are available here at
Vegetarian options available at the hip Kleves.
y 1/368-9227. Entrees Ft 1,800Ft 4,200. AE, MC, V. Lunch & dinner MonSat. Tram: 17 to Nagyszombat utca. Map p 96.
Kiskakukk CENTRAL PEST HUNGARIAN/CONTINENTAL Arches and heavy wood depict the original Little Cuckoo restaurant, which dates back to 1913. Delicacies
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The Best Dining
Hungarian fare on fashionable Liszt Ferenc tr. The fun retro kitsch dcor is based on the ubiquitous Socialist-era canteen. Liszt Ferenc
tr 2. y 1/413-1482. Entrees Ft 1,490Ft 3,490. AE, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Metro: M1 to Oktogon. Tram: 4/6 to Oktogon. Map p 94.
Pozsonyi kisvendgl CENTRAL PEST HUNGARIAN People queue up patiently for reassuringly old-fashioned, cheap, and cheerful Hungarian classics. Grab a beer as you wait or nip in early. Radnti Mikls utca 38 (corner of Pozsonyi t).
y 1/329-2911. Entrees Ft 800Ft

Magyar recipes and a top wine list at Malign Bortterem.
1,900. No credit cards. Tram: 2/4/6 to Jszai Mari tr. Map p 94.
the cool and slightly alternative Stone soup. Kazinczy utca 35/Dob
utca 26 corner. y 1/322-1011. Entrees Ft 1,280Ft 3,680. AE, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Metro: M1/M2/ M3 to Dek tr. Map p 94.
Malign Bortterem BUDA HUNGARIAN This classy cellar eatery is one of a number of wine restaurants but this one also comes up with the culinary goods via creative and subtle new-style Magyar recipes. Real gems among the extensive wine list, and tasting measures also served. Lajos utca 38.
Vadrzsa BUDA HUNGARIAN Fine dining turn-of-the-century style, in a Baroque villa circled by a plush garden. Goose liver, gorgeous-looking cuts of meat, game, and fish will be paraded enticingly before you. Pentelei Molnr utca 15. y 1/326-5817. Entrees Ft 4,400Ft 5,980. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Bus: 11/91 to Vend utca. Map p 96.
International Cuisines Arany Kavir BUDA RUSSIAN

The best in Beluga, Sevruga, and Iranian caviar, blinis and pickled fish, plus posh Stroganoff in a retro Romanov setting. Ostrom utca 19.
y 1/240-9010. Entrees Ft 2,900 Ft 3,900. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner TuesSat Bus: 86/160/260 to Kolosy tr. Map p 96.
Matteo BUDA HUNGARIAN Subtle but expressive flavors in a Bauhaus setting from TV chef Pter Buday who mixes with diners as he works out which Magyar Med concoction they might like. Pasarti t 100. y 1/392-7531. Entrees Ft 1,600Ft 5,900. MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Tram: 56 to Pasarti tr (last stop). Map p 96. Menza CENTRAL PEST HUNGARIAN Popular spot for unpretentious
y 1/201-6737 or 1/225-7370. Entrees Ft 3,500Ft 9,500. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Metro: M2 to Moszkva tr. Tram: 4/6 to Moszkva tr. Map p 96.
Arigato CENTRAL PEST JAPANESE This threadbare Japanese-run joint is popular for the highly authentic, regularly changing and healthy-looking meat, rice, noodle, and veg combos, plus sushi. utca 3. y 1/353-3549. Ft 1,850Ft 5,000. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner
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MonSat. Metro: M3 to Arany Jnos utca. Map p 94.
antique-laden, bijou setting. Frankel

Le u. 12. y 1/316-3970. Entrees Ft 1,000Ft 2,000. Breakfast, lunch & dinner daily. Metro: M2 to Battyhny tr. Tram: 4/6 to Margit hd Budai hdf. Map p 96.
Arriba Taqueria CENTRAL PEST MEXICAN Freshly steamed tacos, quesadillas, and burritos with juicy steak, chorizo, carnitas, and fresh condiments galore. Colorful murals. Terz krt 25. y 1/3740057. Entrees Ft 1,200Ft 1,600. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner MonSat. Metro: M1 to Oktogon. Tram: 4/6 to Oktogon. Map p 94. Artesano Spanyol tterem s Tapas Br CENTRAL
Carne di Hall BUDA BELGIAN/ INTERNATIONAL Croquette de crevettes, from fresh juicy shrimps, and melt-in-the-mouth steak tartare feature at this attractive Buda waterfront eatery. Bem rakpart 20.
PEST SPANISH Refined Spanish regional dishes and fine tapas in a fashionable setting straight from new Spain. Cheap lunch menu on weekdays. utca 2426.
y 1/201-8137. Entrees Ft 3,000 Ft 5,000. AE, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Metro: M2 to Batthyny tr. Map p 96.
Chez Daniel OUTER PEST FRENCH
Walk out if the owner-chef is asleep on the bar, but when hes on song this is nouveau French cuisine parexcellence. Lovely courtyard in summer. Szv utca 32. y 1/302-4039.
Entrees Ft 2,000Ft 5,000. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Metro: M1 to Kodly krnd. Map p 93.
y 1/688-1696. Entrees Ft 1,800Ft 3,200. MC, V. Lunch & dinner MonSat. Metro: M1 to Oktogon. Map p 94.
Balletcip CENTRAL PEST INTERNATIONAL This gastro pubs eclectic menu somehow works, especially the Philly Cheese Steak sandwich. Spills out onto a shabby chic pedestrian street in summer. Hajs utca 14 (corner of utca). y 1/269-3114. Entrees Ft 1,580Ft 2,950. No credit cards. Lunch & dinner daily. Metro: M1 to Opera or M3 to Arany Jnos utca. Map p 94. Baraka OUTER PEST FUSION Dark, sleek and minimalist, Baraka fits well into the Bauhaus Andrssy Hotel (see p 140) and sets the fusion standards with ambitious-sounding but delicious concoctions. MaMaison Andrssy Hotel. Andrssy t 111. y 1/483-1355. Entrees Ft 2,900Ft 6,900. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Metro: M1 to Bajza utca. Map p 93.
Cyrano CENTRAL PEST INTERNATIONAL Pricey but consistently creative restaurant offering new fresh-ingredient fuelled takes on old
Mexican fare at Arriba Taqueria.
Caf Gusto BUDA ITALIAN Exquisite Italianate salads and starters, cold pastas, and sumptuous Tiramisu served in an intimate,
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The Best Dining
Fuji BUDA JAPANESE Sushi is rolled before watchful customers in a highly authentic setting. Great lunch boxes include sashimi, tempura, and grilled fish. Csatrka
utca 54 (corner of Zldlomb utca & Zdkert utca). y 1/325-7111. Entrees Ft 3,500Ft 9,800. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Bus: 29 to Zldkert t. Map p 96.
Goa CENTRAL PEST ASIAN INTERNATIONAL The chichi generic Asian dcor works as a backdrop to the refined pan-Asian specialties, including sushi, plus pasta dishes, excellent salads, and ciabatta sandwiches. Andrssy t 8.
Try Fuji for great sushi lunch boxes.
y 1/302-2570. Entrees Ft 1,500Ft 2,500. AE, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Metro: M1 to Bajcsy-Zsilinszky t. Map p 94.
Govinda Vegetrinus tterem CENTRAL PEST INDIAN
Great value vegetarian Indian food from the Krishnas in this funky cellar. Wash it all down with the spicy homemade soft drinks. Vigyz Ferenc utca 4. y 1/269-1625. Entrees Ft 1,550Ft 1,850 (menus). No credit cards. Lunch & dinner MonSat. Metro: M3 to Arany Jnos utca. Map p 94.
favorites. Kristf tr 78. y 1/2263096. Entrees Ft 3,6904790. AE, MC, V. Breakfast, lunch & dinner daily. Metro: M1/M2/M3 to Dek tr. Map p 94.
Faustos tterem CENTRAL PEST ITALIAN Exquisite Italian traditional cuisine enhanced by subtle wider-world touches and flawless ingredients. Classy minimalist dcor. Szkely Mihly utca 2. y 1/877-6210. Entrees Ft 2,200Ft 6,000. AE, MC, V. Lunch & dinner MonFri; dinner only Sat. Metro: M1 to Opera. Map p 94. Faustos Osteria CENTRAL PEST ITALIAN Faustos traditional take on Italian cuisine is informal but gets the ingredients just right. Like its sibling Faustos Etterem, it also received a recommended tag from Michelin in 2007. Dohny utca 5. y 1/269-6806. Entrees Ft 1,850 Ft 4,600. AE, MC, V. Lunch & dinner MonSat. Metro: M2 to Astoria. Map p 94.
Gresham Kvhz CENTRAL PEST CONTINENTAL/ GOURMET ITALIAN At Gresham youll find fine continental and now also Hungarian cuisine with sublime international touches and a view to the Chain Bridge. A suave coffee house-cum-bistro inside an Art Nouveau landmark. Four Seasons Gresham Palace Hotel, Roosvevelt tr 56. y 1/268-5100. Entrees Ft 3,600Ft 5,800. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Metro: M1 to Vrsmarty tr. Tram: 2 to Roosevelt tr. Map p 94. Il Terzo Cerchio CENTRAL PEST ITALIAN A strong Italian
105
contingent frequents this upmarket trattoria whose house pizza is a tasty assortment of tomato, buffalo mozzarella, Parma ham, and ruccola (arugula/rocket). Dohny utca 40.
pub. Srhz utca 4. y 1/266-2274.

Entrees Ft 1,400 Ft 3,900. No credit cards. Dinner daily. Metro: M3 to Ferenciek tere. Tram: 2 to Fvm tr. Map p 94.
y 1/354-0788. Entrees Ft 1,550Ft 5,500. MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Metro: M2 to Blaha Lujza tr. Map p 94.
Iguana Bar & Grill CENTRAL PEST TEX-MEX The American expat crowd pile in for Tex-Mex that approaches the quality from back home. Enjoy the potent margaritas and a guaranteed lively Cantina atmosphere. Zoltn utca 16.
Kt Szerecsen Kvhz CENTRAL PEST MEDITERRANEAN Med-influenced cuisine and dcor, with subtle Magyar and international touches. The Two Saracens is also good for tapas or just a drink. Nice terrace. Nagymez utca 14. y 1/3431984. Entrees Ft 2,160Ft 3,990. DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Metro: M1 to Opera. Map p 94. Lou-Lou CENTRAL PEST INTERNATIONAL Lovely and consistent creative fusion of Hungarian and French cuisine, with subtle touches coming from further afield. Sleek dcor. Vigyz Ferenc utca 4.
y 1/301-0215. Entrees Ft 1,890Ft

3,990. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Metro: M2 to Kossuth tr. Map p 94.
Indigo CENTRAL PEST INDIAN A fine Indian all-rounder with an impressive range of classic Indian dishes, but particularly excelling in lamb curries. The comfy chic dcor makes this a place to linger. Jkai utca 13. y 1/428-2187. Entrees Ft 2,000Ft 3,000. Lunch & dinner daily. Metro: M1 to Oktogon. Tram: 4/6 to Oktogon. Map p 94. Jardin de Paris BUDA FRENCH Authentic foie gras, lamb, and hanger (onglet) steak can be savored in this beautiful Baroque house. In the summer months its lovely to dine in the garden. Ask for the excellent complimentary shredded duck pt rillettes should it fail to arrive. F utca 20. y 1/201-0047.
Entrees Ft 1,500Ft 5,200. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Metro: M2 to Batthyny tr. Map p 96.
y 1/312-4505. Entrees Ft 4,400Ft 10,900. AE, V, MC, AE. Lunch & dinner MonFri, dinner only Sat. Metro: M2 to Kossuth Lajos tr. Map p 94.
M! CENTRAL PEST FRENCH/ HUNGARIAN No-nonsense bijou bistro that lets the creative and daily changing menu do the talking. Well worth visiting again now that Francophile founder Mikls Sulyok is
Lou Lou offers a fusion of Hungarian and French cuisine.
Kafana Grill Restaurant CENTRAL PEST SERBIAN/ INTERNATIONAL The cool rustic dcor with funky urban paintings is the perfect setting to enjoy succulent Serbian ground meat specialties 5evapci5i and pljeskavica. Also a
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The Best Dining
back. Kertsz utca 48. y 1/3428991. Entrees Ft 1,400Ft 2,800. No credit cards. Dinner daily. Metro: M1 to Oktogon. Tram: 4/6 to Kirly utca. Map p 94.
Millennium da Pippo OUTER PEST ITALIAN Resembling a station of the Millennium Underground that zips under the same street, the food is reassuringly rustic and good quality. Andrssy t 76
(corner of Rzsa utca). y 1/3740880. Entrees Ft 1,300Ft 4,050. MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Metro: M1 to Vrsmrty utca. Map p 93.
on the menu here, but I prefer to ask whats fresh in and have it grilled. Nautical touches and the mighty Danube outside are conducive for an ocean feast. The adjoining Deli does take-out fish n chips. Petfi tr 3. y 1/266-1826.
Entrees Ft 2,300Ft 9,750. AE, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Metro: M1 to Vrsmarty tr. Tram: 2 to Vigad tr. Map p 94.
Momotaro Ramen CENTRAL PEST ASIAN The excellent ramen noodle soup washed down by the free tea may suffice, but tasty Szechuan mains delight. Szchenyi
utca 16. y 1/269-3802. Entrees under Ft 800. No credit cards. Lunch & dinner daily. Metro: M2 to Kossuth tr. Tram: 2 to Kossuth tr. Map p 94.
Okay Italia CENTRAL PEST ITALIAN This Pest trattoria packs them in with well-priced classics and mini-skirted waitresses. If its full, its identically named twin is nearby at Nyugati tr 6. Szent Istvn krt 20.
y 1/349-229. Entrees Ft 1,450Ft 3,650. DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Metro: M3 to Nyugatipu. Tram: 2/4/6 to Jszai Mari tr. Map p 94.
Okuyama no Sushi BUDA JAPANESE Stellar sushi is rolled from ocean delights by the intricate Japanese hand of Tokyo-trained chef Sachi Okuyama in this no-nonsense cellar joint. Cooked options, too. Kolosy tr 56. y 1/250-8256. Entrees Ft 1,200Ft 5,000. No credit cards. Lunch & dinner TuesSun. Bus: 6/60/86 to Kolosy tr. Pampas Argentine Steak House CENTRAL PEST STEAK
Mosselen CENTRAL PEST BELGIAN/ CONTINENTAL The imagination behind the names of dishes like The Favorite of the Leuven Professors (duck steak) also goes into the creative Belgian-influenced fare. Eight Belgian beers on draft. Pannnia
utca 14 (corner of Katona Jzsef utca). y 1/452-0535. Entrees Ft 1,800Ft 4,890. AE, V, MC. Lunch & dinner daily. Tram: 2/4/6 to Jszai Mari tr. Map p 94.
Stylish blood red dcor and juicy steaks from quality imported Argentine Angus cuts, T-bone from the UK, plus Japanese Kobe. Vmhz
krt 6. y 1/411-1750. Entrees Ft 2,600Ft 14,900. MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Metro: M3 to Klvin tr. Tram: 47/49 to Klvin tr. Map p 94.
Nusantara BUDA INDONESIAN

Fine attention to detail both in terms of the high-quality Indonesian from native chefs featuring regional specialties starting with Lumpia (Javan spring rolls) and the sleek softly lit dcor. Vrosmajor utca 88. y 1/2011478. Entrees Ft 2,390Ft 3,790. MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Tram: 56 to Szent Jnos Krhz. Map p 96.
Ocen Bar & Grill CENTRAL PEST SEAFOOD Creative cooking is
Paris-Budapest Caf CENTRAL PEST FRENCH/HUNGARIAN Enjoyable nouvelle French cuisine, plus a lighter, refreshing take on Hungarian staples. Its sleek with an open kitchen and views to the Chain Bridge. Sofitel Budapest; Roosevelt tr 2. y 1/235-5600. Entrees Ft 4,000Ft 6,600. AE, DC, MC, V.
107
Lunch & dinner daily. Metro: M1 to Kossuth tr. Tram: 2 to Roosevelt tr. Map p 94.
tasty spare ribs are grilled up in the lovely garden. y 1/275-1396.

Entrees Ft 1,500Ft 3,000. Budakeszi t 5. AE, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Tram: 17. Bus: 22 to Szpilona. Map p 96.
Pata Negra CENTRAL PEST

SPANISH Traditional, tasty tapas with many of the ingredients like jamon and manchego sheeps cheese imported from Spain. Almost authentic tiled interior plus seats outside next to a church.
Klvin tr 8. y 1/215-5616. Entrees Ft 850Ft 2,200. No credit cards. Lunch & dinner daily. Metro: M3 to Klvin. Map p 94.
= Peppers! Mediterranean Grill CENTRAL PEST
MEDITERRANEAN Delicious Mediterranean-style dishes from local ingredients plus imported salumi to be enjoyed in a stylish setting.
Budapest Marriott Hotel; Apczai Csere Jnos utca 4. y 1/737-7377. Entrees Ft 1,400Ft 5,900. AC, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner MonSat. Metro: M1 to Vrsmarty tr. Map p 94.
Ristorante Krizia CENTRAL PEST ITALIAN A charming and hardly discovered slice of Italy where a savvy touch is applied to traditional Italian cuisine, making poor mans food a rich experience. Mozsr utca 12. y 1/331-8711. Entrees Ft 2,680Ft 8,500. AE, MC, V. Lunch & dinner MonSat. Metro: M1 to Oktogon. Tram: 4/6 to Oktogon. Map p 94. Segal CENTRAL PEST FUSION Fab fusion from the chef of the original Baraka (p 103), who is now in his own place showing daring simplicity and a philosophy of which ingredients to combine, and which not. utca 43-49. y 1/328-0774. Entrees Ft 3,200Ft 5,500. AE, DC, MC, V. Dinner only MonSat. Metro: M2 to Astoria. Map p 94. Spoon DANUBE PEST SIDE INTERNATIONAL Spoon is the pick of the flotilla of boat restaurants,
Remz BUDA HUNGARIAN/ CONTINENTAL Remz has a classy casual atmosphere. The front room features a raised alcove that resembles the front of a tram. In summer,
Fab fusion at Segal.
108
The Best Dining
although the classy cuisine itself warrants a visit regardless of the inspiring Buda views and cool decor. Ocean fresh fish and seafood, and quality meat feature strongly.
Opposite Hotel Intercontinental. y 1/411-0933. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner. Metro: M1 to Vrsmarty tr. Map p 94.
Taj Mahal OUTER PEST INDIAN Highly consistent traditional and authentic curry house specializing in Karahi, Balti, Handi, and Tandoori dishes. Cricket games are screened. Szondi utca 40. y 1/301-0447. Entrees Ft 1,000Ft 3,000. AE, MC, V. Lunch & dinner TuesSun. Metro: M1 to Nyugati pu. Tram: 4/6 to Nyugati pu. Map p 93.
Spoon.
Tom George Restaurant & Caf CENTRAL PEST HUNGARIAN/

INTERNATIONAL A trendy but reliably creative gourmet menu consisting of Hungarian, continental, Asian (including Thai curries), and sushi, all to a high level. Oktber 6. utca 8.
y 1/266-3525. Entrees Ft 2,800Ft 7,900. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Metro: M1/M2/M3 to Dek tr. Map p 94.
Trattoria Toscana CENTRAL PEST ITALIAN Refined Tuscan
Trattoria Toscana.
cuisine to be relished in this rustic restaurant with authentic wooden beams and red bricks. Fabulous carpaccio (marinated raw beef), fresh pasta, brick oven-baked pizzas, seafood galore, and tasty T-bone are among my favorites. In summer enjoy the tranquil river view from the terrace. Belgrd rakpart
13. y 1/327-0045. Entrees Ft 2,390 Ft 5,250. AE, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. Tram: 2 to Mrcius 15. tr. Map p 94.
The Best Nightlife
110
The Best Nightlife
Nightlife Best Bets

Best Al Fresco Bar
Holdudvar, Margaret Island (p 123)
Best Glitzy Dance Club

Dokk, Hajgyrisziget 122 (p 124)
Best Boho Bar

Kiad Kocsma, Jkai tr 3 (p 118) and Sark, Klauzl tr 14 (p 120)
Best Intimate Night Club

Fszek Club, Kertsz utca 36 (p 124) and Piaf, Nagymez utca 25 (p 124)
Best Comic Strip Dcor

Szda, Wesselnyi utca 18 (p 120)
Best Lesbian Hospitality

Caf Eklektika, Nagymez utca 30 (p 124)
Best Courtyard Bar

Mumus, Dob utca 18 (p 123)
Best Martini
Gresham Bar, Four Seasons Gresham Palace Hotel, Roosevelt tr 56 (p 117)
Best Dive Bar

Mtravidki Boroz, Corvin tr 1
(p 121)
Best Garage Bar

Kuplung, Kirly utca 46 (p 118)
Best Place to Drink with the Locals

Wichmann, Kazinczy utca 55 (p 120)
Best Gay Club

CoXx Mens, Dohny utca 38 (p 124)
Alfresco drinking at Holdudvar.
Best Place to Show off under the Stars

Bed Beach, Hajgyrisziget (p 121)
Best Place to Watch English Premier League Soccer

Caledonian Scottish Pub, Mozsr utca 9 (p 116)
Best Retro Bar

Bambi Pressz, Frankel Le utca 24 (p 116)
Best Rooftop Terrace

Corvintet, Corvin ruhz, Blaha Lujza tr 12 (p 122)
Best Something for Everyone Nightspot

Club Inside/Buddha Beach/Retro Beach, Kzraktr utca
911 (p 124)
Best Thirty-something Boho Hangout

Ellt, Klauzl tr 2 (p 117)
111
Nightlife Best Bets
Buda Nightlife
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The Best Nightlife
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113
Nightlife Best Bets
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Bar Ladino 1 Barokko Club & Lounge 2 Buena Vista 3 B7 4 Caf Csiga 5 Caf Eklektika 6 Capella 7 Caledonian Scottish Pub 8 Captain Cook 9 Castro Bisztr 10 Club Inside / Buddha Beach / Retro Beach 11 Corvintet 12 CoXx Mens Club 13 Drer kert 14 Egri Boroz 15 Ellt 16 Fat Mos 17 Fszek Club 18 Gresham Bar 19 Grinzingi 20 Helvcia Srz 21 Incognito 22 Instant 23
Irish cat 24 Jelen 25 Katapult Caf & Pub 26 Kertem 27 Kiad Kocsma 28 Kuplung 29 Lenoteca 30 Old Mans Music Pub 31 Mumus 32 Museum Cukrszda 33 Negro 34 Noiret 35 Paris Texas 36 Piaf 37 Ptkulcs 38 Sandokan Lisboa 39 Sark 40 Sirly 41 Sixtus 42 Szimplakert 43 Szda 44 Tokaji Boroz 45 Vittula 46 Wichmann 47
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114
The Best Nightlife
Islands Nightlife
Bed Beach 1 ChaChaCha Kert 2 Copacabana Party 3 Dokk 4 Holdudvar 5 Sark Kert 6 Sziget Klub Terasz 7
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115
Nightlife Best Bets
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The Best Nightlife
Budapest Nightlife A to Z
Bars & Pubs Bambi Pressz BUDA
Named after a Socialist-period beverage, Bambi Pressz has original swinging Socialist sixties decor with red PVC and old guys playing dominos, plus a great terrace. Go early as it closes around 9pm. Frankel Le
utca 24 (corner of Bem Jzsef utca). y 1/212-3171. Tram: 4/6 to Budai hdf. Map p 111.
y 1/210-0885. Tram: 4/6 to Rkczi tr. Map p 112.

Caledonian Scottish Pub PEST Draught Scottish bitter (or heavy as its known in Scotland), Belhaven Best flows freely in this cozy football-oriented gastropub thats noted for its all-day Scottish breakfast. It also has a Scottish gift shop should you get stuck watching the soccer and be needing a present to make amends. Mozsr utca 9. y 1/311-7611. Metro: M1 to Oktogon. Tram: 4/6 to Oktogon. Map p 112.
Bar Ladino PEST Shabby cool bar-cum-eatery with funky brown wallpaper where old dudes playing cards in the afternoon give way to a thirty-something crowd. A good place to meet up before taking on the bars of Jewish District VII. Dob utca 53. y 0630/874-3733. www. ladino.hu. Tram: 4/6 to Kirly utca. Map p 112.
Captain Cook PEST While supposedly an English pub, in this respect its far from authentic, being decked out in whatever memorabilia the owners could find. Nonetheless, this bar is hard to leave due to its intimate nooks and crannies, a cool terrace in summer, and terrific draught beer. Bajcsy-Zsilinszky t
19/a. y 1/269-3136. Metro: M3 to Arany Jnos utca. Map p 112.
Barokko Club & Lounge PEST Three-level all-in-one cocktail lounge bar, club, and restaurant, plus a terrace onto the Pest party square of Liszt Ferenc tr. DJ parties downstairs. Liszt Ferenc tr 5. y 1/3220700. www.barokko.hu. Metro: M1 to Oktogon. Tram: 4/6 to Oktogon. Map p 112.
Castro Bisztr PEST The original Castro that lit up the trendy bar
Nordic minimalism at Buena Vista.
Buena Vista PEST Trendy but classy with slick Nordic minimalist design, linseed oiled floors, mahogany tables, and a wide selection of drinks. Restaurant upstairs and great terrace right on fashionable Liszt Ferenc tr. Liszt Ferenc tr 45. y 1/344-6303. Metro: M1 to Oktogon. Tram: 4/6 to Oktogon. Map p 112. Caf Csiga PEST Cool Boho hangout with an intimate bar area at home on the corner of an atmospheric square. A good place to hang out at any time of day and food is also served. Vsr utca 2.
117
Fat Mos PEST A fun speak-easy

style joint, it has a long bar and intimate dance floor. Fat Mos is for those who want to avoid the big club experience but still want to get down and boogie. Nyry Pl utca
11. y 1/267-3199. Metro: M3 to Ferenciek tere or Klvin tr. Map p 112.
Fat Mos speak-easy style.
Gresham Bar PEST Try the magical martinis in this pricey but classy cocktail bar, which adds grasshopper motives and an alabaster ceiling to Art Nouveau surroundings. Four Seasons Gresham Palace Hotel, Roosevelt tr 56. y 1/268-5100. Metro: M1 to Vrsmarty tr. Tram: 2 to Roosevelt tr. Map p 112.
strip of Rday utca with its alternative vibe was a real favorite of mine, but the poster-laden new venue still comes up with the goods. The downside of its popularity is that the wonky wooden tables are often occupied. Decent Serbian food is on hand for sustenance. Madch tr 3.
Helvcia Srz PEST Atmospheric cellar pub but one thats clean, fun, and without the alcoholinflicted grime so common in similar venues. Lots of 70s rock posters and music memorabilia, plus a pool table.
Etvs utca 23/b. y 1/332-0207. Metro: M1 to Oktogon. Map p 112.
y 1/215-0184. Metro: M1/M2/M3 to Dek tr. Map p 112.

Dryn BUDA This converted coffeehouse close to the Castle District, a favorite hangout of generally discerning and well-to-do thirty and ups, is a tasteful mix of trendy lounge room, cocktail and wine bar sections and also has a bistro, high end restaurant and breakfast joint all under one roof. Krisztina tr 3.
Incognito PEST Long-established favorite in ber trendy Liszt Ferenc Square with more character than most. A fitting jazz soundtrack goes with the more discerning crowd but theres still a flirty edge. Liszt Ferenc tr 3. y 1/342-1471. Metro: M1 to Oktogon. Tram: 4/6 to Oktogon. Map p 112. Instant PEST This new kid on the alternative block is already drawing in hordes with its unique look and layout. Join the crowd in the covered courtyard or explore the nooks and crannies upstairs where youll find several bars each with their own vibe. Look out for the dentists chair. Nagymez utca 38. Metro: M1 to Opera. Tram: 4/6 to Oktogon. Map p 112.
y 1/255-1407. Tram 18-56. Bus 105

to Krisztina tr. Map p 111.
Ellt PEST Attracting a slightly older arty crowd, the bringer delivers a lively and sometimes a tangibly flirty atmosphere. Stand around the bar and sip draught Staropramen, or decent wines by the glass, or retire to the seats in the backroom. Also features internationally influenced bar food. Klauzl tr 2. No phone. Metro: M1 to Opera. Tram: 4/6 to Kirly utca. Map p 112.
Irish Cat PEST A steamy weekend atmosphere warms up winter nights as dancing breaks out around
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Old memorabilia adorns the walls at Lnchid Srz.
the bar fueled by an enthusiastic mixed age and nationality crowd. Guinness and food also served.
Mzeum krt 41. y 1/266-4085. Metro: M3 to Klvin tr. Map p 112.
Jelen PEST The Boys Dont Cry poster by The Cure at the entrance of Jelen welcomes those looking to relive their student days. Serbian and Hungarian food is served. Blaha Lujza tr 12 (corner
of Mrkus Emlia utca and Sthly utca). y 0626/344-3155. Metro: M2 to Blaha Lujza tr. Tram: 4/6. Map p 112.
hangout that was once a garage and still looks like one except for the very long bar, seats, and tables. Football tables and a ping-pong table are on hand for those up to the challenge. Kirly utca 46.
y 0630/986-8856. Metro: M1 to Opera. Map p 112.

Lnchd Srz BUDA A great
place for a beer after a hard days Buda sightseeing. Simple and unpretentious, and decked out in old memorabilia, the welcome is a warm one. This was my favorite watering hole when I worked close by. F utca 4. y 1/214-3144. Tram: 19 to to Clark dm tr. Bus: 86/105
to Clark dm tr. Map p 111.
Katapult Caf & Pub PEST Fun and colorful bar with DJ evenings, live music or just a Nirvana soundtrack. The terrace looks immediately out to the stunning Great Synagogue directly over the road. Dohny utca 1. y 1/266-7226. Metro: M2 to Astoria. Map p 112. Kiad Kocsma PEST Cool hangout with an arty intellectual library booth-like setting downstairs and a bright street-level caf upstairs. Decent pub grub, Magyar style. Jkai tr 3. y 1/331-1955. Metro: M1 to Oktogon. Tram: 4/6 to Oktogon. Map p 112. Kuplung PEST The Clutch is a grungy underground Boho
Museum Cukrszda PEST A busy cake and coffee shop by day, and by night a favorite of assorted revelers who come to sober up on solidsbut often keep on drinking until the sun comes up. Cute terrace thats nice for seeing in the new day.
Mzeum krt 10. y 1/452-0888. Metro: M2 to Astoria.
Negro PEST Dark and sultry chichi lounge room/cocktail bar with a summer terrace leading onto the stunning basilica-dominated Szent Istvn tr. The bar is actually located in the squares only ugly building, meaning you see the square at
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its best. Szent Istvn tr 11. y 1/

302-0136. Metro: M1 to Bajcsy-Zsilinszky t. Map p 112.
Noiret PEST Pool and darts cellar with a party vibe and a jukebox pumping out greatest hits soundtracks. It also has a single snooker table and a separate non-smoking pool area. Dessewffy utca 810 (corner of Hajos utca). y 1/331-6103. Metro: M3 to Arany Jnos utca. Map p 112.
friendly faces are welcoming as you settle down for a drink in this real pub atmosphere. The seats outside are pleasant too. Rday utca 22.
y 1/218-0570. Metro: M3 to Klvin tr. Tram: 47/49. Map p 112.

Paulaner Brauhaus BUDA A huge German gastro beer hall with beer brewed on site, and the fact its in a shopping mall hardly detracts from the experience. Wheat beer is bzasr in Hungarian, but the staff will understand German weibier.
Top floor of MOM Park, Alkots utca 53. y 1/224-2020. Tram: 61 to Csrsz utca. Map p 111.
Old Mans Music Pub PEST Good late on for a last drink and a free dance to old classics, or for local rock gigs. The mature female clientele make this music pub just as much the Old Girls as the Old Mans. Akcfa utca 13. y 1/3227645. Metro: M2 to Blaha Lujza tr. Tram: 4/6. Map p 112.
Oscar Caf BUDA A city slickers-oriented Buda bar thats known for top cocktails, good wine, and draught beer, which pardons the now-dated Hollywood theme that, fortunately, is hidden with the dim lighting. Ostrom utca 14.
Ptkulcs PEST Set behind a nondescript gate, the Spare Key is easy to miss but difficult to leave. Tavern-like on one side by the bar, Ptkulcs becomes a grungy cellar on the other. Popular with the student and young alternative crowd, it also serves plenty of veggie pub grub.
Csengery utca 65/B. y 1/269-1050. Metro: M3 to Nyugati pu. Tram: 4/6 to Nyugati pu. Map p 112.
y 1/212-8017. Metro: M2 to
Moszkva tr. Tram: 4/6. Map p 111.
Paris Texas PEST An old favorite on the trendy Rday utca party strip, whose venues often lack substance over style. Here, however, the pictures on the wall of
Museum Cukrszda.
Sandokan Lisboa PEST The colorfully tiled interior and decaying townhouses on this pedestrian street, onto which the action spills in summer, conjure up the city of Lisbon. There may be no Portuguese beer but the thirst-quenching draught Spanish San Miguel is close enough. Hajs utca 23 (corner
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The Best Nightlife
of utca). y 1/302-7002. Metro: M1 to Opera. Map p 112.
Sark PEST Ive dropped into the cool Corner Bar many times to meet up with friends before embarking on a tour of District VII nightspots only to spend the whole evening there. Chat up upstairs, chill out in the gallery or groove to music down in the basement. Usually attracts an alternative/student crowd. Klauzl tr 14. y 1/328-0753. Tram: 4/6 to Kirly utca. Map p 112. Sirly PEST A twisty staircase connects this three-level arty venue thats everything from a buzzing barcum-coffee house, to a concert and theater venue, internet hotspot, exhibition space, and occasional cinema. Kirly utca 50. y 0620/957-2291. Tram: 4/6 to Kirly utca. Map p 112. Sixtus PEST Tiny bar with a big personality, its a longtime home to boho expats and likeminded arty Hungarians. Slightly cliquey at first sight, but everyones your friend when the drinks start to flow. Nagy Difa utca 2628. y 1/413-6722. Metro: M2 to Blaha Lujza tr. Tram: 4/6 to Wesselnyi utca. Map p 112. Szimplakert PEST The great survivor of temporary nightspots that sprung up in derelict
Admire the Manga wallpaper at Szda.
buildings has made this, its second location, its permanent home. Shabby cool and expanding, with free WiFi it seems to be many peoples unofficial office. Kazinczy utca
14. No phone. Metro: M2 to Blaha Lujza Astoria. Bus: 7 to Urnia. Map p 112.
Szda PEST The alternative ambience here is provided by a backdrop of Japanese Manga comic strip wallpaper, retro red plastic seats, and soda siphons, attracting a young arty crowd. Theres a fun dance floor downstairs in fall and winter. Wesselnyi utca 18. y 0670/389-6463. Tram: 4/6 to Wesselnyi utca. Metro: M2 to Astoria. Map p 112. Vittula PEST Grungy hip cellar bar frequented by a friendly and up-for-it mixed nationality clientele. The alternative rock soundtrack is supplemented by occasional DJs. Ask at the bar about Vittulas art gallery. Kertsz utca 4. No phone. Metro: M2 to Blaha Lujza tr. Map p 112. Wichmann PEST Classic smoky drinking den in a lovely old house that, along with the long wooden tables and bar, give it an old-world tavern feel. Cheap wine, beer, and spirits are consumed by the eclectic crowd with remarkable speed. Kazinczy utca 55. y 1/3226174. Tram: 4 or 6 to Kirly utca. Map p 112.
Wine Bars Andante BUDA Serious

wine bar in an elegant riverside building next to the Chain Bridge offering an extensive selection of Hungarian wines with cold dishes to match. Founders include winemaker Zsolt Tiffn and the pop star kos.
Bem rakpart 2. y 1/457-0807. Closed Sun & Mon. Metro: M2 to Batthny tr. Map p 111.
Egri Boroz PEST Unpretentious

wine cellar with Flintstone furniture
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selling barrels of cheap and cheerful vino in green ceramic jugs and mugs. Not sure if its the quantity or quality that gives the next-day headachebut thats a small price to pay. Bajcsy-Zsilinszky t 72.
y 1/302-1724. Metro: M3 to Nyugati pu. or Arany Jnos utca. Tram: 4/6 to Nyugati pu. Map p 112.
Grinzingi PEST Rough-and-ready wine bar with a great atmosphere where five different types of wine from the Mtra region flow in a scary quantity. The chairs are chunky and fixed to the floor so nobody falls off. Veres Pln utca
10. y 1/317-4624. Metro: M3 to Ferenciek tere. Map p 112.
Find an extensive selection of Hungarian wines at Andante.
Lenoteca PEST Cute Italianate wine bar with a wide selection of quality Hungarian and Italian wines available by the glass and bottle, plus cheese, hams, and salumis. Great views to Buda from the street terrace. Belgrd rakpart 13. y 1/4861665. Tram: 2 to Mrcius 15. tr. Map p 112.
that swallows up people from all walks of life heading home from work. You certainly wont find the finest examples of the sumptuously sweet Tokaji Asz here (see p 150) but you will find a great wine cellar atmosphere and some hearty bites.
Falk Miksa utca 32. y 1/269-3143. Tram: 2/4/6 to Jszai Mari tr. Map p 112.
Mtravidki Boroz BUDA Hardened local drinkers occupy the front bar area downing the cheap but quaffable wine from the Mtra. The lady of the house keeps the place in tip-top condition and the cool rustic back room is very pleasant. Corvin tr 1. y 1/214-4020.
Metro: M2 to Batthyny tr. Map p 111.
Summer Bars/Venues Bed Beach HAJGYRISZIGET Whiter than white dcor, the ideal backdrop for hot hedonistic nights to hardcore dance music on Budapests glitzy nightlife island. The place to be seen but not for a quiet drink. Hajgyrisziget.
Tokaji Boroz PEST Descend the steps into this crypt-like setting
y 0630/436-4400. Suburban train: HV to Filatorigt. Map p 114.
Garden Party
The hot summer bars and venues are usually open May to September but sometimes open later due to bad weather. Many come and go but the once listed are expected to be open in 2009 and beyond.
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The Best Nightlife
Cafe del Rio BUDA Dress in your summer coolest and sip expensive cocktails at this fancy outdoor venue that pumps out dance music to a backdrop of palm trees and undeniably beautiful girls. Goldmann
Gyrgy tr 1. y 0630/297-2158. www.rio.hu. No cover MonThur. Ft 1,000 cover FriSat after 11pm. Tram: 4/6 to Petfi hd budai hdf. Map p 111.
from island under rpd bridge). y 1/239-1509. Bus: 26 to Zenlkt. Map p 114.
ChaChaCha Kert MARGARET

ISLAND Sandwiched between tennis courts and a sports stadium, this outdoor venue goes from a relaxed place to take an early evening drink to groove central as everyone takes to the al fresco dance floor (on hot summer nights from Wednesday to Saturday). After summer the action moves indoors and underground to a cool cellar labyrinth at Bajcsy Zsilinszky t 63, close to Nuygati Station. Tram: 4/ 6 to Margitsziget.
Bus: 26 to Szigeti bejr. Map p 114.
Corvintet PEST Set atop a Socialist-era shopping complex, Corvin is a cool spot on steamy summer nights. The rooftop is open summers only but the Bohemian warehouse-type hangout is worth checking out any time of year. (Youll need to climb several flights of stairs.) Corvin ruhz; Blaha Lujza
tr 12 (entrance from Somogyi Bla utca). y 0620/772-2984. Metro: M2 to Blaha Lujza tr. Tram: 4/6 to Blaha Lujza tr.
Drer kert PEST Drink and think in this cool, less-frequented courtyard of the Arts University. Tree stumps, colorful lights plus DJs and gigs at weekends with a fun interior maze of extreme retro rooms that are also open winters.
Ajtsi Drer sor 1921. y 1/7894444. Trolley bus: 74 to Ajtsi Drer sor. Map p 112.
Copacabana Party MARGARET ISLAND Copacabana hosts regular gigs at its pleasant riverside spot. Take your drinks to the northern tip of the island and hang off like Di Caprio and Winslet in the movie Titanic. Margitsziget (entrance
Trendy nightspot Holdudvar.
Fecske BUDA Relaxing and airy rooftop location with cushioned sofas overlooking the Komjdi swimming pool. The aquatic theme continues with views down the Danube and sun beds. Food served.
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rpd fejedelem tja 8. y 1/3260714. Bus: 6/60/86 to CsszrKomjdi Uszoda. Map p 111.
Holdudvar MARGARET ISLAND Converted from a famous casino, this trendy nightspot successfully marries old-world charm with modern touches. The garden bars are surrounded by trees, plus theres a gallery, dance floor, and a restaurant. y 1/236-0155. Tram: 4/6 to Margitsziget. Bus: 26 to Hajs Alfrd Uszoda. Map p 114. Kertem PEST The extremely laid back My Garden feels like everyones garden. Old vinyl discs decorate the bar, while the sleeves of incredibly schmaltzy looking singers line the route to the toilets. Christmas lights add funky color after dark. Olof Palme stny 3.
Metro: M1 to Hsk tere. Map p 112.
Mumus.
Danube at night, but the toilets arent that idyllic. Kids play area.
Tram: 4/6 to Margitsziget. Map p 114.
Mumus PEST After a fouryear absence, Mumus returned in 2008 with its unique brand of alternative art and decor that has been applied to this once derelict Jewish District townhouse. Colorful entrance, installations, and a gallery next to the toilet. Dob utca 18. No phone. Metro: M2 to Astoria. Map p 112. Romkert BUDA Dramatically situated between the river and the foot of Gellrt Hill, in the garden under the beautiful Turkish dome of the Ruds baths. Theres always a steady flow of cocktails and the music scene is set for a serious al fresco party. Dbrentei tr 9 (Garden of the Rudas Baths). Tram: 18/19 to Dbrentei tr. Map p 111. Sark Kert MARGARET ISLAND Next to the Danube bank on Margaret Island, this laidback, slightly grungy and bamboo-laden setting is ideal for a quiet drink and a chat under the sun or stars. The light shines enticingly off the
Sziget Klub Terasz MARGARET ISLAND Overlooking my favorite tennis courts (p 89) and perched above the Danube this is an enjoyable place for a quiet drink without grunge or glamour. Margitsziget
(approx. 100m on left entering island from Margaret Bridge). y 0670/ 531-2955. Tram: 4/6 to Margitsziget. Map p 114.
Zld Pardon BUDA Festival-like atmosphere attracting an up-for-it student crowd. Varied attractions include a lake bar you paddle up to, a plinka (fruit brandy) house, a games and dance area plus loads of live music. Southern side of Goldmann Gyrgy tr. Tram: 4/6 to Petfi hd, Budai hdf. Map p 111.
Clubs B7 PEST Big booming

rhythm and bling dance club in the heart of central Pest providing glitzy nightlife action without having to trek out to the big clubs of Hajogyri Sziget. Nagymez utca
4848. y 1/269-0573. www.b7.hu.
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The Best Nightlife
Admission varies. Open WedSat. Metro: M1 to Oktogon or Opera. Map p 112.
Club Inside/Buddha Beach/Retro Beach PEST
Pest waterfront and riverside warehouses converted and devoted to good times. House, techno, and disco, plus old classics are churned out. In summer, the party moves to retro-style Buddha Beach and Retro Beach.
Parisian-style sleaze upstairs and a greatest hits soundtrack downstairs. The slightly mature crowd should know better but cant resist coming back. Ring the bell to get in.
Nagymez utca 25. y 1/312-3823. www.piafklub.hu. Ft 800 cover, including one drink. Metro: M1 to Oktogon or Opera. Tram: 4/6 to Oktogon. Map p 112.
Kzraktr utca 911. y 1/210-4872. www.clubinside.hu. Entry to Club Inside Ft 1,500 for men, women free. Open Fri, Sat. Free entry to Buddha Beach/Retro Beach, open every day MaySep. Tram: 2 to Kzraktr utca. Map p 112.
Gay & Lesbian Caf Eklektika PEST The

same old lovely lesbian hospitality as its like-named predecessor now comes in a more mature location and under a stucco ceiling. A great hangout any time of day. Nagymez
utca 30. y 1/266-1266. www. eklektika.hu. Metro: M1 to Oktogon or Opera. Map p 112.
Dokk HAJGYRISZIGET ber trendy club with top dance DJs in a spacious converted warehouse on Hajogyri Sziget (Boatyard Island). The sight of so many beautiful girls under one roof gets the mens pulses racing. The action moves outdoors to Dock Beach in summer. Hajgyrisziget 122. y 0630/535-2747. Entry varies. Dokk Beach free entry. Suburban train: HV to Filatorigt. Map p 114. Fszek Club PEST Amazing bijou artists cellar club with a risqu atmosphere and borderline bordello decoration. However, you never know what youre going to get hereit ranges from seriously arty one night to gangster bling the next. Kertsz utca 36. y 1/3426549. FreeFt 300 cover. Tram: 4/6 to Kiraly utca. Map p 112.
Capella PEST This Pest three-level waterfront hotspot is a bit too mixed for some as many straights pile in for the midnight drag show. Nevertheless, a lively crowd twists the night away to dance and disco in camped-up surroundings. Belgrd rakpart 23. y 1/318-6231. wwww.capella.hu. Admission varies. WedSat. Tram: 2 to Mrcius 15 tr. Map p 112. CoXx Mens Club PEST Hidden gents club with themed nights including macho, military cruising, and a bear club. Tastefully done but quite hardcore. Dohny utca 38. y 1/344-4884. www.coxx.hu. Ft 1,000 admission. Metro: M2 to Blaha Lujza tr. Map p 112.
Piaf PEST This Budapest classic rocks through till dawn with
The Best Arts & Entertainment
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Arts & Entertainment Best Bets

Best Art Nouveau Auditorium
Ferenc Liszt Music Academy (Liszt Ferenc Zeneakadmia), Liszt Ferenc tr 8 (p 132)
Best Independent and Gay Movies

Cirko-geyzr, Balassi Blint utca
1517 (p 133)
Best Collection of European Masters

Fine Arts Museum, Dzsa Gyrgy t 41. Overlooking Heroes Square (p 130)
Best Magyar Masters

National Gallery, Buda Palace, Buildings A, B, C, D. Szent Gyrgy tr 2 (p 131)
Best Night at the Opera

Opera House, Andrssy t 22 (p 133)
Best Contemporary Performance Art

Traf House of Contemporary Arts, Liliom utca 41 (p 134)
Best Pop Art

Ludwig Museum, Palace of Arts, Komor Marcell utca (p 130)
Best Floating Rock Concerts

A38 Ship, Moored on the River Danube next to Petfi hd (p 133)
Best State-of-the-Art Classic Music Venue

Bla Bartk National Concert Hall, Palace of Arts. Komor Marcell
utca (p 132)
Best Folk Concerts

Fon Budai Zenehz, Sztregova utca 3 (p 134)
Best Free Underground Concerts

Gdr, Erzsbet tr. (p 14)
Best Place to Tap into the Local Jazz Scene

Columbus Jazz Club, Permanently moored on the River Danube at Vigad tr (p 134)
Best Heavenly Acoustics

Matthias Church (Mtys Templom), Szenthromsg tr 2
(p 132)
Matthias Church for heavenly acoustics.
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Buda Arts & Entertainment

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Arts & Entertainment A to Z

Art Galleries & Museums Applied Arts Museum
PEST Porcelain once owned by the Tsars, Habsburgs, and a bizarre singing saint from Madrid star among Art Nouveau objets industriels. The museum also features many temporary exhibitions and is a good place to take kids who can join interactive educational searches (see p 115, bullet 8). lli t 3337.
Metro: M3 to Ferenc krt. Map p 128.
part-Hungarian Drer whose father hailed from Hungary. @ 1122 hr.

Come early when major temporary exhibitions are running. Dzsa Gyrgy t 41. Overlooking Heroes Square. y 1/469 7100. www. szepmuveszeti.hu. Ft 1,200. Tues Sun 10am5:30pm. Metro: M1 to Hsk tere.
Ernst Museum PEST Temporary exhibition space thats run by the Mcsarnok, which focuses on thematic solo and group exhibitions that reflect on the social and urban environment. Anything from local to Mexican artists can be exhibited.
Nagymez utca 8. y 1/460-7000. www.mucsarnok.hu. Tickets Ft 1,200. Metro: M1 to Opera. Map p 128.
Ludwig Museum PEST Lichtenstein, Warhol, and a Picasso matador carousing with a naked woman feature among contemporary Magyar artists and their works.
Palace of Arts, Komor Marcell utca 1. y 1/555-3444. www.ludwig museum.hu. Free for permanent collection. Tram: 2 to Millenniumi Kulturlis Kzpont. Map p 128.
Mai Man Gallery PEST

Photographer Man Mai is the man behind this suitably arty 1894 building. Home to the Hungarian Foundation of Photography, it hosts varied local and international photo exhibitions. Chic adjoining bar. Nagymez
utca 20. y 1/473-2666. www. maimano.hu. Tickets Ft 700. Metro: M1 to Opera. Map p 128.
Fine Arts Museum PEST An outstanding collection of Spanish masters (see p 14, bullet 3) plus other greats including Raphael, Titian, Tiepolo, Brueghel the Elder, Van Dyck, Jordaens, Rembrandt, Reynolds, Constable, and the
Mai Man Gallery, home to the Hungarian Foundation of Photography.
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From Station to Station

An argument has ensued over the gleaming frescoes that adorn the main waiting room at Keleti, Budapests neo-Baroque Eastern train station. Dating back to 1884, but immaculately restored in 2008, much of the rest of the station, which is palatial in design and dramatic in dimension, is pretty run down. Step into the international ticket office to see the contrast or check the outside of the building. The centerpiece features mythological figures sitting on a rail car and pulled by angels down the tracks. It is flanked by further elaborate paintings depicting the pillars of economy. Eiffels Nyugati Station is an epic glass and iron structure that commuters barely notice as they pile into Pest on their way to work. One of the side buildings is home to a remarkably grand McDonalds. Otherwise, nightclubs take up this prime space. For an excellent view from up above, climb the stairs of the Skala shopping center opposite. In 2008 a roof-top bar was operating.
Mcsarnok PEST Behind the striking exterior of this neoRenaissance building lies a top exhibition space, which holds up to six major local and international contemporary visual art exhibitions annually. Hsk tere. y 1/460-7014.
www.mucsarnok.hu. Tickets Ft 1,200. Metro: M1 to Hsk tere. Map p 128.
Its so diverse that nothing would surprise me. Nice outdoor area for kids. Kis Rkus utca 1620.
y 1/336-4000. www.millenaris.hu. Tickets vary. Metro: M2 to Moszkva tr. Tram: 4/6 to Szna tr. Map p 127.
Palace of Arts (Mvszetek Palotja) PEST This high-tech
and chic art house is the centerpiece of the new Millennium City Center with the Ludwig Gallery, Bla Bartk National Concert Hall, and Festival Theater among its attractions. Komor Marcell utca 1.
National Gallery BUDA Look out for works by the darkly talented Mihly Munkcsy, the completely unique Tivadar Csontvry, who Picasso once referred to as the other great artist of the 20th century, and Hungarys very own Impressionist Rippl-Rnai. Buda Palace, Buildings A, B, C, D. Szent Gyrgy tr 2. www.mng.hu. y 0620/439-7420. Tickets Ft 800. Bus: 16/16A/116 to Dsz tr. Map p 127.
y 1/555-3001. Tram: 2 to Millenniumi Kulturlis Kzpont. Map p 128.

Traf House of Contemporary Arts PEST This hotbed
Arts Centers = Millenris BUDA

ber cool converted industrial complex packed with urban art, installations, and holds film festivals, concerts and DJ nights.
of cutting-edge expression plays host to a variety of local and international performance arts, many of which are accessible for non-Hungarian speakers. Liliom utca 41.
y 1/215-1600. www.trafo.hu. Tickets vary. Metro: M2 to Ferenc Krt. Map p 128.
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VAM Design Center PEST Impressive new arts center that hosted the internationally renowned Bodies exhibition in 2008. Its revolving exhibitions by local artists are dramatically displayed around the covered courtyard of this former townhouse as well as in the side rooms that were once apartments. The pictures can be bought. Kirly
utca 26. y 1/666-3141. www.vam design.hu. Tickets vary, courtyard exhibitions free. Tram: 4/6 to Kirly utca. Map p 128.
30. y 1/333-0540. www.opera.hu. Tickets vary. Metro: M2 to Blaha Luiza tr. Map p 128.
Ferenc Liszt Music Academy (Liszt Ferenc Zeneakadmia) PEST Facing
funding cuts, this 130-year-old education institution is paying for itself by putting on more of its own concerts, featuring the cream of Hungarian talent. Regular performances are held in the awesome Art Nouveau auditorium. An experience not to be missed. See p 24, bullet 7.
Liszt Ferenc tr 8. y 1/342-0179. Tickets vary. Metro: M1 to Oktogon. Tram: 4/6 Oktogon. Map p 128.
Classical Music Venues Bla Bartk National Concert Hall PEST Home to the
Hungarian Philharmonic Orchestra led by the world-famous pianist Zoltn Kocsis, this state-of-the-art venue has the same dimensions as a Gothic cathedral and the acoustics to match. Palace of Arts,
Komor Marcell utca 1. y 1/5553300. Tickets vary. Tram: 2 to Millenniumi Kulturlis Kzpont. Map p 128.
Matthias Church (Mtys Templom) BUDA
Heavenly surroundings and acoustics make for an outstanding classical music experience. The kind of place that is built to handle all that Handels Messiah can throw at it.
Szenthromsg tr 2. y 1/355-5657. www.matyastemplom.hu. Tickets vary. Bus: 16/16A/116 to Szenthromsg tr. Map p 127.
Erkel Sznhz PEST Socialistrealist from the outside, but pleasing acoustics from the inside. Although I once saw Nick Cave and the Bad Seeds here, its used mainly to share Budapests opera and ballet burden with the Opera House and Thalia Theater. Kztrsasg tr
VAM Design Center.
Ndor Terem PEST The intimate bijou Art Nouveau Ndor Hall, hidden away in the Institute of the Blind, is a prime venue for strings, chamber music, and virtuoso performances. Ajtsi Drer sor 39.
y 1/ 344-7072. Closed Jul & Aug.
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Tickets on sale before performance, price varies. Metro: M1 to Mexiki t. Map p 128.
Dance National Dance Theatre

BUDA Ballet, folk, modern, and contemporary dance on tap in this handsome theater, itself very much part of the beauty of the Castle District. Sznhz utca 13. y 1/2014407. www.dancetheatre.hu. Tickets vary. Bus: 16/16A/116 to Dsz tr. Map p 127.
budai Trsakr BUDA The Franz Liszt Chamber Orchestra, Budapest Strings, and Auer String Quartet are regulars at this wonderfully restored enclave of Old Buda, sadly a gatecrasher these days in the realm of high rises. Music in the Garden in summer. Kiskorona utca 7. y 1/250-0288. www.obudai tarsaskor.hu. Tickets vary. Suburban train: HV to rpd hd. Map p 127. Opera House PEST At the cutting edge when it was opened by Franz Joseph I in 1884, both in terms of design and functionality, the Opera House is desperate to replace the creaking East German stage and concrete pit to restore the once-outstanding acoustics. She still looks beautiful though, and the great-value opera and ballet is a must. (See p 8, bullet 3.)
Andrssy t 22. y 153-0170 for tickets. www.opera.hu. Metro: M1 to Opera.
Live Music A38 Ship RIVER DANUBE

Local and international acts, including names as big as John Cale on this very hip Ukrainian ship. Industrial cool bar in the engine room and swanky restaurant top deck.
Moored next to Petfi hd (Petfi Bridge). y 1/464-3940. www. a38.hu. Tickets vary. Closed Sun. Tram: 4/6 to Petfi hd, budai hdf. Map p 127.
Budapest Arena PEST The multipurpose Papp Lszl Budapest Sport Arena, to give this huge spaceship-like building its full name, replaced an older venue that burnt down, and sadly wasnt in place to
Movie Marvels
While the shopping mall cinemas are comfy and kitted out with state-of-the-art movie technologyArena Plaza (see p 78) even has a VIP areaBudapest is also home to some cool art-house cinemas and handsome old relics from the golden age of cinema. Mvsz (Terz krt 30. y 1/332-6726) screens a wide range of mainly lesscommercial films, new and not so new. rkmozg (Erzsbet krt 39. y 1/342-2167) and Cirko-geyzir (Balassi Blint utca 1517. y 1/ 269-1915) are seriously offbeat while the Moorish-influenced Urnia (Rkczi t 21. y 1/486-3413) has been restored to its fin-de-sicle splendor and has viewing boxes that make for a special experience. Both the mall and arthouse types of mozi (cinema) show plenty of films in English. The weekly Budapest Sun has cinema listings and English language portal Xpatloop.com has a search function.
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host the likes of Guns n Roses in their heyday. However, there are plenty of their present-day comtemporaries: fellow stadium rockers Coldplay made it here in fall 2008.
Tickets vary. Tram: 47 to Kalotaszeg utca. Map p 127.
y 1/422-2600. www.budapest arena.hu. Tickets vary. Metro: M2 to Stadionok. Map p 128.

Columbus Jazz Club DANUBE This is the place to tap into the local jazz scene. Prices for drinks, however, are high on this slightly cheaplooking floating jazz venue, but the music makes up for it. Permanently moored close to Vigad tr. y 1/ 266-9013. Tickets vary. Tram: 2 to Vigad tr. Map p 128.
Giero PEST Tiny cellar place where Gypsy Jazz musicians meet up to jam and hang out. Electric atmosphere and decent rustic cooking. Free, but a few tips get them to really go for it. Paulay Ede utca 56.
Free entry. Metro: M1 to Oktogon. Map p 128.
Filter Klub PEST Absolutely no filtering of the end product goes on in this raw hard rock hangout. Plenty of young punk bands strut their stuff for free, especially on school nights. Almssy utca 1.
Gdr PEST Weird, wonderful, and varied program of concerts sees all the beats from across the globe sounding in this stylish subterranean setting under Erszebet tr. Local gypsy greats Romano Drom are a feature. Nice outdoor bit. Erzsbet tr. y 0620/201-3868. www.godorklub.hu. Tickets vary, often no cover charge. Metro: M1/M2/M3 to Dek tr. Map p 128.
y 0630/921-4212. Free entry.

Metro: M2 to Blaha Lujza tr. Tram: 4/6 to Wesselnyii utca or Blaha Lujza tr. Map p 128.
PECSA PEST This retro kitsch venue attracts the likes of big lesscommercial stars like Morrissey and Nick Cave. (See p 48, bullet 8.)
Traf Br Tang PEST The cellar club of the truly progressive Traf unsurprisingly pulls in many budding alternative bands, plus the likes of legendary Creation Records founder Alan McGee who has a residency here with his Death Disco. Liliom utca 41. y 1/4562053. www.trafo.hu. Tickets vary. Metro: M3 to Ferenc krt. Tram: 4/6 to Ferenc krt. Map p 128.
Fon Budai Zenehz BUDA Top Hungarian and Transylvanian folk acts on Wednesdays, with powerful and unrestrained Csng, a folk style from a Hungarian minority hailing from deepest Romania and Moldavia. Gypsy dance classes, too. Sztregova utca 3. y 1/206-5300. www.fono.hu.
The multi-purpose Budapest Arena.
The Best Lodging
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The Best Lodging
Lodging Best Bets

Best Art Deco Hotel
Andrssy Hotel MaMaison $$$$$$ Andrassy t 111 (p 140)
Best Art Nouveau Hotel

Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace Budapest $$$$$$$$$ Roosevelt tr 56
(p 142)
Best Bargain View

Citadella Hotel $ Citadella stny
(p 141)
Best Boutique Hotel

Zara Boutique Hotel $$$$$ S utca 6 (p 144)
Best Cheap n Cheerful Socialist-era Lodgings

Medosz $ Jkai tr 9 (p 144)
Best Designer Hotel

Lnchd 19 $$$$$ Lnchd utca 1921 (p 143)
Best Old World Ambience

Danubius Hotel Astoria $$ Kossuth Lajos utca 1921 (p 142); Danubius Hotel Gellrt $$$$ Szent Gellrt tr 1 (p 142)
The Boscolo New York Palace.
Best Views
Marriott $$$$$ Apczai Csere Jnos utca 4 (Map p 144); Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace Budapest $$$$$$$$$ Roosevelt tr 56 (p 142); Sofitel Budapest Maria Dorottya $$$$$$$ Roosevelt tr 29 (p 144)
Best Restored Old Favorites

Boscolo New York Palace $$$$$$$ Erzsbet 911 (p 140); Corinthia Grand Royal Hotel $$$$$$ Erzsbet krt 4349
(p 141)
Best Spa Hotels

Danubius Health Spa Resort Margitsziget $$ Margitsziget (Margaret Island) (p 141); Danubius Health Spa Resort Helia $$ Krpt utca 6264 (p 141); Ramada Plaza $$$$$$$ rpd fejedelem tja 94
(p 144)
Best Villa
Uhu Villa, Kesely utca 1 (p 144)
Best When Money is No Object

Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace Budapest $$$$$$$$$
Roosevelt tr 56 (p 142)
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Andrssy Hotel MaMaison 1 Atrium Fashion Hotel 2 Best Western Hotel Art 3 Boscolo New York Palace 4 City Panzi Ring 5 Corinthia Grand Royal Hotel 6 Danubius Grand Hotel Margitsziget 7 Danubius Health Spa Resort Helia 8 Danubius Health Spa Resort Margitsziget 9 Danubius Hotel Astoria 10 Easy Hotel 11 Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace 12 Gerlczy Rooms Deluxe 13 Kempinski Hotel Corvinus 14 Le Mridien Budapest 15 Marriot 16 Medosz 17 NH Hotel 18 Sofitel Budapest Maria Dorottya 19 Zara Boutique Hotel 20
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140
The Best Lodging
Budapest Lodging A to Z
Andrssy Hotel MaMaison PEST Stylish Art Deco hotel
w/breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: M3 to Batthny tr. Map p 137.
with all the mod cons and designer furniture to match. Close to Heroes Square and houses fusion cuisine benchmark Baraka (see p 103).
Andrssy t 111. y 1/462-2100. www.andrassyhotel.com. 70 units. Doubles 105395. Breakfast 20. AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: M1 to Bajza utca or H_sk tere. Map p 138.
= Beatrix Panzi BUDA

Clean and simple with a bit of a 70s retro hangover, Beatrix has a relaxing homely atmosphere. Self-catering Mediterranean apartments are also available. Szher t 3. y 1/2750550. www.beatrixhotel.hu. 22 units. Doubles 60100 w/breakfast. No credit cards. Tram: 18/56 to Kelemen Lszl utca. Map p 137.
Atrium Fashion Hotel PEST Fashion hotel with a striking central atrium and minimalist bijou rooms. The neighborhood is not the most salubrious but it is lively and central. Csokonai utca 14.
y 1/299-0777. www.atriumhotel budapest.com. 57 units. Doubles 108135 w/breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: M3 to Blaha Lujza tr. Map p 138.
Artotel BUDA Chic with a lovely Buda riverside setting plus easy access to the Castle District and Pest, and great views to the Chain Bridge and Parliament. Art by Donald Sultan. Bem rakpart 1619.
Best Western Hotel Art PEST Tucked away in a charming and laidback narrow street just a step away from the action, the Art Deco columns recall this buildings arty past while the modern rooms are spotless. Kirly Pl utca 12. y 1/266-2170. www.bwhotelart.hu. 32 units. Doubles 90180 w/breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: M3 to Klvin tr. Map p 138. Boscolo New York Palace PEST Seriously sumptu-
y 1/487-9487. www.artotel.hu. 164 units. Doubles 198318

The sumptuous Boscolo New York Palace.
ous from the moment you walk in to the modern but classically influenced Italianate lobby. Also houses the legendary New York Coffee
141
House (see p 35). Erzsbet krt

911. y 1/886-6111. www. boscolohotels.com. 107 units. Doubles 169509 w/breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: M3 Blaha Lujza tr. Map p 138.
Carlton Budapest CASTLE DISTRICT Great location on a steep quiet street at the foot of the Castle District close to the Danube and Chain Bridge. Immaculate but smallish rooms. Apor Pter utca 3.
y 1/224-0999. www.carltonhotel.hu.
95 units. Doubles 85110 w/breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: M2 to Batthny tr. Map p 137.
Citadella Hotel BUDA Basic hotel with five-star views over the river to most of Pest and much of Buda from where the Austrian occupiers used to keep watch over the Magyars below. Citadella stny.
Old world charm at Danubius Hotel Astoria.
AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: M1 to Oktogon. Map p 138.
y 1/466-5794. www.citadella.hu.
12 units. Doubles 4651 without breakfast. Breakfast 5. Bus: 27 to Bsul Juhsz (Citadella). Map p 137.
Danubius Grand Hotel Margitsziget MARGARET ISLAND
City Panzi Ring PEST Clean, comfortable, reasonably priced, and on major Pest thoroughfare close to Margaret Island. A bit noisy overlooking the street but brighter than the facing courtyard. Szent Istvn krt
22. y 1/340-5450 or 1/340-4884. www.taverna.hu. 39 units. Doubles 76 w/breakfast. AE, MC, V. Metro: M2 to Nyugati pu. Tram: 4/6 to Nyugati pu. Map p 138.
This handsome old-world riverside building is handily connected to the spa and sporting facilities of its sportier-looking Margaret Island twin by tunnel. Margitsziget.
y 1/889-4752. www.danubius group.com/grandhotel. 164 units. Doubles 137180 w/breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Bus: 26 to Szllodk (Hotels). Map p 138.
Danubius Health Spa Resort Helia PEST A particularly
Corinthia Grand Royal Hotel PEST Behind the beautifully
good option for business travelers and conference planners where, after a long day, guests can take advantage of the spa and wellness facilities.
Krpt utca 6264. y 1/889-5800. www.danubiusgroup.com/helia. 262 units. Doubles 104214 w/breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: M3 to Dzsa Gyrgy t. Map p 138.
restored Habsburg period faade lies a seriously swish interior that brilliantly combines the best of old and new. The swanky rooms, awesome atrium, grand ballroom, and spa facilities are a treat. Erzsbet
krt 4349. y 1/479-4000. www. corinthia.hu. www.corinthiahotels. com. 414 units. Doubles 155 without breakfast/350 w/breakfast.
Danubius Health Spa Resort Margitsziget MARGARET
ISLAND Outstanding spa utilizing leafy Margaret Islands three thermal springs and top wellness facilities with classically furnished rooms
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The Best Lodging

Elegant dcor at Gerlczy Rooms Deluxe.
in this now not so modern hotel.

Margitsziget. y 1/889-4700. www. danubiushotels.com/margitsziget. 267 units. Doubles 118178 without breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Bus: 26 to Szllodk (Hotels). Map p 138.
Danubius Hotel Astoria PEST Bastion of old-world charm in a very central location. Clean and comfortable with plenty of marble, elaborate carpets, crystal chandeliers, myriad mirrors, and stainedglass windows. Kossuth Lajos utca 1921. y 1/889-6000. www. danubiusgroup.com/astoria. 135 units. Doubles 90214 w/breakfast. AE, MC, V. Metro: M3 to Astoria. Map p 138.
Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace Budapest.
Danubius Hotel Gellrt BUDA If you dont demand modern luxuries like air conditioning and free WiFi but value a unique lived-in atmosphere then this could be your place. Seriously eclectic. Szent Gellrt tr 1. y 1/889-5501. www. danubiusgroup.com/gellert. 234 units. Doubles 70240. AE, DC, MC, V. Tram: 18, 19, 47, 49 to Szent Gellrt tr. Map p 137.
Easy Hotel PEST Bargain prices

for clean, albeit orange, rooms in downtown Pest. Book online in the same way as budget air tickets whereby the cheaper rooms sell out first. Good choice for stag/ hen weekends. Etvs utca 25/a.
www.easyhotel.com. 59 units. Doubles 29 50 without breakfast. Pay over the internet with all major credit cards. Tram: 4 or 6 to Oktogon. Map p 138.
Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace Budapest PEST
Looking right onto the splendor of the Chain Bridge and with its stunningly restored Art Nouveau interior and rooms, outstanding service, breakfasts and spa, this is the place to splash out. The rooms keep an elegant but not over-stated Art Nouveau style. Roosevelt tr 56.
y 268 6000. www.fourseasons.

com/budapest. Doubles 290410 w/breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Tram: 2
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to Roosevelt tr. Bus: 16 to Roosevelt tr. Map p 138.
Gerlczy Rooms Deluxe PEST Immaculate rooms elegantly furnished and true to the style of this charming 1892 building, which also houses the excellent Gerlczy coffee house. It overlooks a charming and less discovered square. Gerlczy utca 1. y 1/501-4000. www. gerloczy.hu/roomsdelux/. 15 units. Doubles 85 without breakfast. Breakfast 10. AE, MC, V. Metro: M1/M2/M3 to Dek tr. Map p 138. Hotel Astra BUDA Spacious rooms with antique furniture in a restored 300-year-old house. Spotlessly clean and comfortable, with an atmosphere that many guests say makes them feel at home. Vm utca 6. y 1/214-1906. www.hotel astra.hu. 12 units. Doubles 99112. No credit cards. Metro: M2 to Batthyny tr. Map p 137. Hotel Panda BUDA Clean, spacious, and colorful after a recent renovation, this Socialist-era hotel overlooks Bauhaus Pasarti tr and has a forward-thinking policy of employing disabled people. Spa facilities. Pasarti t 133. y 1/3941932. www.budapesthotelpanda.hu. 29 units. Doubles 70100 w/breakfast. AE, MC, V. Bus: 5 to Pasarti tr. Map p 137. Kempinski Hotel Corvinus PEST The King of Budapests luxury
Luxurious suite at the Lnchid 19 design hotel.
Kempinski Hotel Corvinus.
hotels, until the Gresham Four Seasons and Corinthia Grand Royal came along to challenge its crown. Although starting to look a bit dated you can find some competitive prices by booking ahead. Nice spa facilities.
Erzsbet tr 78. y 1/429 3777. www.kempinski-budapest.com. 366 units. Doubles 129299 without breakfast, AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: M1/M2/M3 to Dek tr. Map p 138.
Lnchd 19 BUDA Seriously chic designer hotel with close attention paid to detail and each room decorated with its own unique arty touches. Splash out on a suite, lie in the bath, and watch the Danube flow by. Lnchd utca 1921. y 1/4191900. www.lanchid19hotel.hu. 48 units. Doubles 162240. MC, V. Tram: 19 to Clark dm tr. Map p 137. Le Mridien Budapest PEST A deceptive river vista on its website taken in Buda aside, this classy and central hotel is big boutique rather than big chain and has a top French restaurant, Le Bourbon. Erzsbet tr 910. y 1/429-5500. www.le meridien-budapest.com. 218 units. Doubles from 239. Breakfast 25. AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: M1, M2, M3 to Dek tr. Map p 138.
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The Best Lodging
Marriott PEST Recently renovated from top to bottom with rooms kitted out with the mega-comfy Marriott Revive Bedding and views over the river to the Buda Palace to die for. Drink Bling deluxe water in the AQVA Lounge Bar. Apczai Csere Jnos utca 4.
y 1/486 5000. www.marriott.com. 364 units. 119225, excluding taxes and breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: M1 to Vrsmarty tr. Tram: 2 to Vigad tr. Map p 138.
Medosz PEST The building could
be considered a Socialist period monstrosity but its ideally located in downtown Pest, well priced, clean and comfortable, and just the place for someone looking to sleep behind the original iron curtain. Surrounded by Pest nightlife.
Jkai tr 9. y 1/374-3000. www. medoszhotel.hu. 67 units. Doubles 4965 w/breakfast. MC, V. Metro: M1 to Okogon. Tram: 4/6 to Oktogon. Map p 138.
Uhu Villa offers a quiet retreat within the city limits.
has transformed the interior with expertly applied modern touches including a funky airplane in the striking lobby. Top Danube views.
Roosevelt tr 2. y 1/2661234. www.sofitel.com. 350 units. 94350 double, 2,500 suite, excluding taxes and breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: M1 to Vrsmarty tr. Map p 138.
NH Hotel PEST Stylish and exceedingly modern hotel tastefully tucked away behind the Vgsznhz, the oldest theater in Budapest. Great breakfast. Vgsznhz utca 3. y 1/814-0000. www.nh-hotels.com. Doubles 99196 without breakfast. AE, DC, V, MC. Metro: M2 Nuygati. Map p 138. Ramada Plaza BUDA Luxury choice for business or pleasure on the banks of the Danube in buda over the water from Margaret Island. Excellent thermal and wellness facilities on the site where the Romans once bathed. rpd fejedelem tja 94. y 1/436-4100. 182 units. 1202,000 w/breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V . Suburban railway: HV to rpd hd. Map p 137. Sofitel Budapest Maria Dorottya PEST While new owner
Uhu Villa BUDA Cozy, friendly, and tastefully decorated with its own swimming pool, Uhu offers peace and quiet within the city limits. Most love it but a few gripe about its hilltop location, 10 minutes on foot from the nearest tram stop.
Kesely utca 1/a. y 1/275-1002. www.uhuvilla.hu. 12 units. Rooms from 49. AE, MC, V. Tram: 18/56 to Akadmia. Map p 138.
Accor couldnt change the Socialistera exterior, the French hotel group
Zara Boutique Hotel Minimalism nicely executed with no expense spared on furnishings, Zara is a cool option in this enjoyable part of downtown Pest. S utca 6. y 1/357-6170. www.zarahotels. com. 74 units. Doubles 105230 w/breakfast. AE, MC, V. Metro: M3 to Klvin tr. Map p 138.
1 0
The Best Day Trips & Excursions
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The Danube Bend
ne of the prettiest stretches of the entire length of the Danube is blessed with three towns steeped in history, each of which I describe here. You could, at a push, see all three in one day, but a more manageable approach might involve Szentendre on one day and Visegrd and Esztergom together on another. From Szentendre its 22km/13.5 miles by road to Visegrad from where its another 24km/15 miles to Esztergom. START: Batthny tr to take HV
suburban train to Szentendre; or rpd hd bus station in Pest for Visegrd; or Pests Nuygati station for Esztergom.
1 Szentendre. Of all the easy short hops from Budapest, Szentendre packs in the most history and color. The town is well on the tourist radar and attracts large numbers of visitors on a yearly basis. The inhabitants of Szentendre are well used to this, however; indeed, foreigners were flocking here centuries before the age of mass tourism, especially the Serbs who settled in the town en masse in the 17th century. I like walking around the beautiful cobbled Baroque main streets that run off the main square and then losing the tourist hordes by exploring the steep, narrow streets. Also, a walk along the
The colourful town of Szentendre.
Danube is a must and a look at the Belgrade Orthodox Church, with its adjoining Serbian Orthodox Museum, is a poignant reminder of Hungarys neighbors influence on the town. @ 121 day. Szentendre
Tourist Information Office, Dumtsa J. utca 22. y 26/317-965. www. szentendre.extra.hu. Last stop on HV suburban train that starts at Batthny tr (approx. 40 min).
2 Visegrd. The smallest

town in Hungary is towered over by an imposing medieval citadel, which along with the lower castle was originally built by Bla IV in the 13th century to keep out the Mongols. The Royal Palace dates from the 14th century when Charles Robert of Anjou moved the Royal Court here. @ 34 hr. www.visegrad.hu.
Bus: from Szentendre or rpd hd bus station in Pest.
3 Esztergom. Though the

center of the Hungarian Catholic Church, Esztergom has a remarkable number of bars, and in this easy-going riverside border town, like most frontier posts, theres no shortage of opportunities to have fun. The biggest church in Hungary is situated on St. Thomas Hill, opposite what must be one of Hungarys smallest. Climb up the hill and stare over to Slovakia or walk over the bridge and enjoy some fine Slovakian draught beer. @ 34 hr. Bus:
from Visegrd. Train: direct from Pests Nyugati station.
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UKRAINE
7
50 mi
50 km
SLOVAKIA
Miskolc
1
Tokaj
AUSTRIA
Debrecen
Eger
Gyr BUDAPEST Szolnok
Tatabnya
Du na (Danube)
Veszprm
HUNGARY ROMANIA
Bkscsaba
1 2 3 4 5 6
Zalaegerszeg
Lake Balaton
Kecskemt
Tisz sa
A Wine Country Detour

Eger Etyek Lake Balaton Pannonhalma Szekszrd Soml
7
SLOVENIA
Drava
Kaposvar
Szekszrd
CROATIA
Pcs
Wine Region
SERBIA
Tokaj
8
Villny
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ungarys wines are one of its best-kept secrets and its wine regions are an engaging blend of rustic charm and stateof-the-art new wineries. You can increasingly turn up at wineries without invitation, but its probably still best to call them beforehand. While you can reach anywhere in Hungary and get back the same day, it is worth staying over at most of its wine regions, especially since Hungary has a zero-tolerance alcohol policy and a car is the most convenient mode of transport. START: All regions can also be
reached by train or bus (check www.elvira.hu and www.volanbusz.hu respectively for timetables).
1 Eger. The region famous

for the generally lowly reputed mass-market Bulls Blood now has Bikavr Superior, a more refined, limited-yield version of the classic blend, as its flagship. The increasingly sophisticated Central European indigenous grape Kkfrankos forms the backbone of most Bikavr, but dont expect blockbusting fullbodied reds, as the beauty of Eger reds is their balance and finesse. With the climate comparable to Burgundy, it is no wonder that Pinot Noir features seriously. Also, a good region for whitesMonarchia winery (Verszala u. 66, y 0670/452-2626,
Wine growing around Lake Balaton.
www.monarchiawinery.com) even lets you blend your own Bikavr.

140km/87 miles east of Budapest on E71/M3, taking E71/M3 then exit 114 and road 33.
2 Etyek. Etyek makes for a nice excursion in itself but its crispy whites are all the more reason to make the short 30km trip from Budapest for. Up on reg hegy, Etyeki Kria (y 0630/9225-261) has mastered reductive fruity style Pinot Gris but also look out for its rustically elegant Kirlylenyka and delicious Sauvignon Blanc. It has also pioneered red wine in the
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region with its Pinot Noir that won the Best Pinot gong at 2008s Pannon National Wine Contest.
30km/18.65 miles west of Budapest on E60/M1, exiting at Biatorbgy.
prices of some of the best-known wines have become inflated. Unlike in Villny, wineries are far apart.
180km/112 miles south of Budapest. Take E73.
3 Lake Balaton. The shores and

environs of the Hungarian Sea present the Hungarian wine world in microcosm. The black volcanic basalt organ pipes that rise up at Badacsony set the tone for the areas predominantly white mineral-infused wines. Szeremley wines put Badacsony on the path to renown and there is an excellent restaurant with sweeping views of the lake. Saint
Orbn Wine House Restaurant at Kisfaludy S. utca 5 in Badacsony. y 87/431-382. www.szeremley.com. M7 to Balaton.
6 Soml. Hungarys smallest wine region is known for its fiery and spicy white wine. Even Britains Queen Victoria loved it, especially when she heard about the propensity for women who imbibed wines made from Soml grape Juhfark (Sheep Tail) to mother male offspring. Sometimes, however, the wines are just too rough and acidic with too much mineral power. I suggest visiting the Kreinbacher winery (y 88/506-212), which has succeeded in making more polished, better balanced and fruitier wines that still have plenty of Soml.
164km/102 miles west of Budapest. Take E71 / M7 until exit 64 and connect with the E66 / 8 and head in the direction of and then past Veszprm to Somlvsrhely where you will see Soml Hill.
4 Pannonhalma. Near the town of Gyr, the Benedictine Monastery of Pannonhalma (Pannonhalma, Vr 1, y 96/570-171, www.apatsagipinceszet.hu) is situated strikingly above a quant village. The UNESCO-listed monastery is well worth visiting in its own right and has its own state-of-the-art gravity-fed winery making very promising Tramini, Riesling, Pinot Noir, and a blockbusting fruit bomb of a red called Infusio. 133km/82.5
miles west of Budapest on E60/ M182.
5 Szekszrd. Rapidly
emerging from the big red shadow cast by Villny, Szekszrd is also doing well in international competitions with Bordeaux blends. The red Kadarka grape is a local specialty and can make delicious light but spicy reds. One of its finest proponents is the upcoming Bodri cellar (Vitz utca 1, y 0620/440-6666, www.bodribor.hu), whose wines are all good value in a region where the
7 Tokaj. Tokaj has the worlds oldest wine classification system and its sumptuous elixirs were once the favorites of European royalty. Sun King Louis XIV dubbed Tokaji Asz the King of Wines, and the Wine of Kings. However, its the winemaking thats happening now that makes this region so special. Hungarys one undeniably worldclass region is blessed with its position at the confluence of the Bodrog and Tisza rivers. The mist that rises here enables noble rot that concentrates the sweetness of wine. The region is also privileged with unique volcanic soils and a distinct portfolio of grapes in the form of Furmint and Hrslevel. Since the fall of Communism, investment has piled in from those who know just
151
how good this terroir is. The problem for Tokaj now is that sweet wine isnt the flavor of modern times. Yet the taste of one of these sublime elixirs, when made in the modern style, emphasizes freshness and sumptuous acidity, rather than overt sweetness. Also, less intense lateharvest styles and bone dry Furmints are gaining ground. Disznk (at Mezzombor, the Md-Tarcal junction of the 37 road, y 47/569410, www.disznoko.hu) is one of the easiest to visit, and one of the best, as well as the first youll encounter coming in from Budapest. Tokaj
town is 233km/144.8 miles northeast of Budapest. Take E71/M3 E71E71/M30E71/3 and take junction 37 to enter the region.
8 Villny. Attila Gere whose blockbusting Bordeaux-style reds helped put Hungarys leading red wine region in the spotlight, both at home and to a certain
Villny, Hungarys leading red wine region.
extent abroad, has a large modern winery and visitor center at Erkel Ferenc utca 2/A, y 72 492-839, www.gere.hu plus a cozy guesthouse in the village center at Difs tr 4, y 72 492-195. As its a sign of the investment flowing into Villny that the Wunderlich winery (opposite the Gere winery) wouldnt look out of place in California thankfully the winemaker is capable of making wines to match the grand ambition. While Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are good here, its the lesser-known Bordeaux varietal Cabernet Franc that seems most at home and capable of unique expression. Local grape Portugieser makes enjoyable easy-drinking reds. Most of Villnys wineries can be accessed on foot, on and around the high street. 234km/145.5 miles
south of Budapest. Take the same direction as Szekszrd, passing it and later taking road 57.
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Veszprm
72
8 mi
rkt Nemesvmos Kvesgypuszta Balatonalmdi

73
Papkeszi Kngs Balatonakarattya
8 km
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71
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1
Nyird Lovas Balatonfred
Ocs
Balatonvilgos
7
Lake Balaton
drgd Drgicse
71
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Lake Balaton
he oft dubbed Hungarian Sea is circled by a range of varied attractions and is much more than a place to go sailing with the in crowd or bask on its banks. These contrasting towns will give you an essence of Balaton and are best enjoyed over a few days touring. START: The east tip of Balaton and all of these destinations can
be reached in as little as an hour by car from Budapest on the M7 highway and most places here can be reached within two hours but allow extra time in peak periods. Trains depart regularly from Budapests Dli station (for an interactive timetable go to www.elvira.hu).
1 Balatonfred. The biggest resort town on the northern shore has an elegant old-world-cumbest-of-Communism feel, at least in parts, which is surviving well alongside the modern hotel developments. I enjoy walking around the waterfront, stopping for some deepfried fish. The water is deeper here on the northern side and better suited to serious swimming. Balatonfred Tourist Information Office, Kisfaludy utca 1. y 87/580-480. www.balatonfured.hu.
Lake Balaton.
2 Tihany. This pretty peninsula town is just 4km/2.5 miles from Balatonfred. The narrowest point of the lake is topped off by the epic twin-towered Benedictine Abbey that hangs dramatically over the lake. It features an eerie crypt where you can read the engravings on the tomb of Andrs, Hungarys very first King of that name, buried here in 1060. He also founded the still-functioning Abbey. Tihany
Tourist Information Office, Kossuth utca 20. y 87/448-804. www. tihany.hu.
3 Keszthely. A rare pearl of Baroque beauty after countless repetitive resorts, Keszthely is home to the Festetics Palace. The abode of charitable counts, they built a hospital and the worlds first agricultural university, the latter now being part of the University of Pannonia.
Keszthely Tourist Information Office, Kossuth utca 28. y 83/314-144. www.keszthely.hu.
4 Sifok. This is the undisputed

party capital of Balaton, but it also has some pleasant beaches away from the action. The southern side has a very shallow shelf around waist height, which makes the water warm. Accessible from Budapest by Inter City trains it takes around two hours and much less by car if you drive as fast as a Hungarian. Sifok
Tourist Information Office, Vztorony (Water Tower). y 84/315-355. www.siofoktourism.com.
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Szchenyi tr Early Christian Cemetery Pcs Cathedral Csontvry Museum Zsolnay Museum TV Tower
Nagy Lajos kirly tja
3 4 5 6
155
Pcs
cs is often touted as the Hungarian town with a mellow Mediterranean vibe, but you can also feel an influence from the Eastern Mediterranean Muslim world. All thats missing really is the sea. A day trip to this joint European City of Culture (2010) can be enjoyed on foot with all the attractions within close proximity to each other, except for the TV Tower. START: Train from Dli plyaudvar
(Southern train station), Budapest then head to Szchenyi tr.
1 = Szchenyi tr.
This sloping and striking old town central square displays in its architecture some of the most significant periods in the citys history. The Church of Saint Mary in Turkish times was the Mosque of Pasha Gazi Kasim and still has a praying niche toward Mecca. Below it theres a Baroque holy statue, plus Baroque buildings all around, and a remarkable Art Nouveau Zsolnay fountain.
underground burial chambers features lavish murals depicting Christian themes and memorial chapels above ground. @ 45 min. Szent
Istvn tr.
3 Pcs Cathedral. Impressive neo-Romanesque cathedral with four spires and elaborate frescoes from local and international artists throughout. @ 45 min. Dm
tr. y 72/513-030.
@ 45 min. Szchenyi tr.

2 Early Christian Cemetery. A short walk away, this
UNESCO-listed series of 4th-century
The town Hall on Szchenyi tr.
4 Csontvry Museum.
Csontvry is my favorite of Hungarian artists, particularly for his originality and ability to breathe new life into tired themes. This comprehensive collection of his works is housed in a lovely museum. @ 1 hr.
Janus Pannonius utca 11. y 72/ 310-554.
5 Zsolnay Museum. The

tiles that adorn many of Budapests finest buildings like St. Matthias Church (see p 62) and the Applied Arts Museum (see p 15) hail from Pcs. If youre a fan then dont miss the collection at this museum.
@ 45 min. Kptalan utca 2. y 72/ 514-040.

TV Tower. Hike up the 537m-high Misina peak and take the lift up to the 75m lookout tower that stands on top of it for breathtaking views. Its glass-walled caf will transport you back to a 1970s spy movie. @ 2 hr. Misina tet.
y 72/336-900. Ft 600. Open 9am9/10pm in season.
156
Eger
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HATVANIHSTYA
1 2 3
Eger Castle Dob tr Minaret Eger Cathedral Egers Thermal Baths Egerszalk Thermal Resort
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4 5 6
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Eger
ger, together with its castle, is an iconic symbol of Hungarian defiance when the Stars of Eger successfully repelled a mammoth Turkish force in 1552, after Budapest fell in the 1540s. Although the Turks took the town 44 years later in 1596 eventually, when the Ottomans were safely dispatched back to Istanbul after 91 years in 1687, Eger rebuilt itself at the height of the Baroque period and the result is stunning, making for a sensational walking tour. All of the sights on this tour, except the Egerszalk thermal bathing complex, are within close proximity of each other. For more information contact the Eger Tourist Information Office at Bajcsy-Zsilinsky utca 9, y (06) 36/517-715. START: Train from Keleti plyaudvar (East-
ern railway station), Budapest then head to Eger Castle.
1 = Eger Castle.
According to legend, the brave defenders of Eger Castle were fuelled by Bulls Blood, Egers red wine, during the five-week siege in 1552. Consisting of just 2,000 Magyars, and led by Istvn Dob, they held off Ottoman forces 40 times their size. The Turks apparently thought the heroic Hungarians were imbibing the real blood of bulls. The effects of the wine wore off by 1596 as Eger Castle fell, and so ensued a 91-year period of Ottoman rule. Meet the stars of the battle in the Istvn Dob Museum within the Castle grounds. Youll also find the tomb of Gza Grdony, the author of The Stars of Eger, also known as the Eclipse of the Crescent Moon, which depicts the events of 1552, as well as a dungeon. @ 1 hr. y 36/
312-450. Admission Ft 1,200 inc. museum, Ft 600 excluding museum. Every day 8am8pm May 1 to Aug 31, closing 7pm in Sep, Mar and earlier in off-season (5pm Nov 1Feb 28).
the River Eger and has the Castle rising above it. However, as with so many squares in Hungary, a Socialist-era monstrosity steps in to spoil the party. In this case its more of a Baroque ball, and the impostor comes in the form of the mini shopping center opposite the handsome dual-spired Minorita Church. @ 45
min. Dob tr.
3 Minaret. This minaret is a

pointy reminder of Egers Ottoman occupation. It was once one of many but is the only one to have survived, albeit with no mosque attached, and as such is the northernmost surviving monument from the Turkish invasion. Scale the twisting staircase of 100 steps for panoramic views of the town.
@ 45 min. Knzich utca 1. Admission Ft 200. Open from Apr 1 to Oct 31, TuesSun 10am6pm.
4 = Eger Cathedral.
Seat of Egers bishopric and the second biggest church in Hungary, this Jzsef Hild-designed, neo-classical cathedral (1836) is notable for the army of Christian statues towering above the columns at the entrance and its three cupolas. Its home to the biggest church organ in
2 Dob tr. To this day Eger is a remarkably well-preserved tour de force in Baroque architecture. This is particularly evident in and around this central square that is divided in two by the trickle that is
158

Eger.
Hungary, whose magnificent and earth-shattering tones can be heard at regular summer concerts or during services. @ 45 min.
5 = Egers Thermal Baths. A vast bathing complex

where you can spend long summer days without getting in the least bit bored. Everythings there from a 50m/164ft swimming pool to thermal pools that work against arthritis and rheumatism. Theres even a thermal pond with a waterfall that you can take a plunge in, as well as pools, a Wellness House, a water castle and slides for the kids plus restaurant and cocktail bar. The complex is also open for evening bathing every Thursday, Friday, and Saturday from 7pm to 11pm. Petfi tr 2. Entrance from the Archbishops Gardenthroughout the year, entrance from Petfi tr in summer. y 36/314-142. www.eger
termal.hu. Admission Ft 1,250. 8:30am7pm May 1Sep 30. 9am 7pm Oct 1Apr 30.
modern bathing complex is home to 17 indoor and outdoor pools. The resort is built around the incredible natural feature of a white limestone and travertine hill that rises dramatically out of Hungarys green northern uplands. Egerszalk. Forrs t 4.
y 36/688-500. www.egerszalok furdo.hu. Admission Ft 1,200 for 3 hr (deposit Ft 2,400). 10am6pm Mon Thurs. 10am8pm FriSun. Lido open every evening until 1am in summer. Buses heading to Verpelt and Gyngys stop in Egerszalk.
Eger Cathedral.
6 = Egerszalk Thermal
Resort. Just 6km/3.7 miles outside
Eger at Egerszalk, this wonderful
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The Savvy Traveler
Before You Go
Government Tourist Offices
For the US: Hungarian National Tourist Office, 350 Fifth Avenue, Suite 7107, New York, NY 10118, y: 212/695-1221, www.goto hungary.com. For the UK and Ireland: No walk-in service but interested parties are served via the website www.gotohungary.co.uk and a 24hour English-language hotline on 00800 36 000 000, with calls free from the UK. Travelers from Canada and Australia are not served directly but can make enquiries through www.goto hungary.com or through Hungarian embassies. guests as well as the cream of local talent. Contact: www.btf.hu. On the last weekend of the Spring Festival, the offbeat Budapest Fringe Festival is described by its organizers as one big talent show, with everything from punk bands to acrobats and belly dancers. The hip arts melting pot of Millenris is among the main venues (p 131). Contact: Bernadett Grdos (y 1/486-3326), gardos@ budapestfringe.com. Film fanatics get square-eyed at the Titanic Film Festival, which runs for 10 days at the end of March or the beginning of April and shows many Hungarian and international films, often ahead of their release dates. It runs simultaneously in the magnificent Art Nouveau-influenced Urnia and the arthouse cinemas of Toldi, Vrsmarty, and the rkmozg Film Museum. Contact: Balzs Vzer (y 0620/551-4927]), film@titanicfilmfest.hu.
SUMMER. On the summer solstice,
The Best Time to Go

Budapests peak season runs from May to September, but with July and August often verging on the oppressively hot. The city does, however, have a wealth of baths that are a godsend when temperatures soar. May, June, and early September are usually ideal temperature-wise. August is a major vacation month so be prepared to find a fair number of restaurants, bars, and shops shut. Budapest is a good all-year destination and despite its cold winters there are plenty of indoor activities, plus outdoor novelties like skating and shopping at a Christmas market. Hotel prices are significantly cheaper in the off-season and the city is less overrun with tourists, making a strong case for an off-peak visit.
Festivals & Special Events

SPRING. The Budapest Spring Festival, a bevy of high culture including opera, classical, chamber music, dance, jazz, theater, and crossover, takes place during the last two weeks of March. It has featured many prominent international
June 27 in 2009, Mzeumok jszakja (Night of the Museums) allows culture vultures to visit many of the citys museums until 2am at seriously discounted prices (e.g. Ft 1,200 in 2007), while special buses are laid on by the Budapest transport company, BKV, to whisk participants between the museums. Tickets can be purchased at museums and some BKV ticket booths. Contact: www. muzeumokejszakaja.hu. Although the main concert season runs from late September to early June, the Budafest Summer Festival sees the classical concerts, opera, and ballet continue throughout July at Szent Istvn Basilica, the Hilton Dominican Court, and on Margaret Island, with Klezmer and folk music also included. Contact: y 1/332-4816, viparts@viparts.hu.
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Before You Go
On weekends in the second half of June to the second half of August, look out for Summer on the Chain Bridge, with stages on both sides of the bridge, and plenty of craftspeople exhibiting their wares on and around the bridge (which is closed to traffic). Lots of festival bites to eat are available, including the classic Transylvanian hollow whirly pastry known as kalcs, which you can witness being made. Hungarys answer to the UKs Glastonbury and Americas Lollapalooza, the Sziget Festival takes place for just under a week in midAugust on an island (Hajgyrisziget) within the city limits, so theres no need to camp out. Tickets for the 6-day event cost Ft 37,500 and Ft 30,000 respectively for camping and non-camping tickets, and Ft 8,000 per day (at the time of writing). The festival has featured many big names from The Cure, Iggy Pop, The Killers to Iron Maiden and underground international acts and leading world music performers, as well as many local artists, even Hari Krishna bands. There are many other typical festival attractions such as bungee jumping and abseiling. You can take a ferry from downtown Pest right into the action. A record 385,000 visitors attended the 2008 event. Contact: info@sziget.hu. On St. Stephens Day on August 20, hordes of Hungarians take to the Danube banks between Margaret Bridge and Szabadsg Bridge to watch a stunning firework display.
FALL. During the first week of September, the Jewish Summer Festival sees a variety of concerts, including those by Israeli pop stars, at key venues in the Jewish district with the stunning Great Synagogue, also known as Dohny utca Synagogue, at the center. Contact: y 1/ 343-0420. www.jewishfestival.hu.
Just about anyone who is anyone in the world of Hungarian wine puts in an appearance at the Budapest International Wine Festival that occupies the Buda Palaces grounds from Wednesday to Sunday around the middle of September. Contact: y 1/203-8507, www. aborfesztival.hu. In October things get seriously abstract during the Budapest Autumn Festival with lots of cutting-edge performance art, modern dance, offbeat exhibitions, and all that jazz. Contact: Festival director Zsfia Zimnyi. y 1/486-3300. info@festivalcity.hu; http://bof.hu. On All Saints Day, November 1, Hungarians visit cemeteries to pay their respects to departed relatives. More beautiful than macabre, cemeteries are lit up with candles and Kerepesi Cemetery, also known as Fiumei ti Srkert, at Fiumei t 16 in District VIII is the most spectacular.
WINTER. Christmas is a quiet family affair with the main celebration on the evening of December 24, while everyone comes out to party for the New Year, some even starting before noon on New Years Eve at the races at Kincsem Park (60km from Budapest).
The Weather
Hungary has a continental climate with hot summers and cold winters where temperatures often linger below freezing point. Summers are hot and long, occasionally uncomfortable, with temperatures often hitting the high 8090F/30C as early as mid-June and sometimes staying there until mid-September. The changeover to cooler temperatures at the end of September or October can leave people wondering whats happened to fall, and vice versa to spring in May. However, like many other countries in the world these days, precise temperatures are increasingly difficult to predict as
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The Savvy Traveler
AVERAGE TEMPERATURES
JAN Daily Temp. (C) Daily Temp. (F) FEB MAR APR MAY JUNE
-1 30
JULY
1 38
AUG
6 43
SEPT
11 52
OCT
16 61
NOV
19 66
DEC
Daily Temp. (C) Daily Temp. (F)
21 70
21 70
16 61
11 52
5 41
1 38
Source: www.topbudapest.org
the effects of climate change take hold. An extremely mild Mediterranean-type winter can be followed by a typically cold one
www.bbj.hu, www.budapest times.hu & www.budapest sun.com are the main Englishlanguage newspapers and also come in print form.
Useful Websites
www.budapestinfo.hu is Budapests official tourism website and includes information on events, key sights, and the citys baths. www.festivalcity.hu contains detailed information on the Spring, Autumn, Fringe, and Summer on the Chain Bridge festivals. www.budapest.com is the citys travel and commercial portal and has a hotel booking search engine that gives instant confirmation. www.elvira.hu is an interactive train timetable thats accessible in English. www.bkv.hu provides detailed information on the citys public transport system. www.xpatloop.com, expatshungary.com & www. caboodle.hu are Englishlanguage sites that provide lots of practical information concerning life in Hungary. The latters sister gastronomic site www. chew.hu contains detailed information on Hungarys cuisine and the culinary scene.
Cell Phones
If your phone has GSM capability, then your mobile will work in Budapest. Roaming rates within the European Union have been cut drastically by regulators, making it much cheaper to use your phone in Hungary. Check with your operator before you leave. www.apartments inbudapest.com rents out mobile phones for 39 per booking, not per day, with 80 free outgoing local minutes.
Car Rentals
With public transport still connecting the four corners of the city with relative ease, it is unlikely that you will need to rent a car. A rented car does come in handy though if youre looking to make excursions beyond the city limits. Prices are generally cheaper if you book online before you arrive in Budapest. Fox Autorent (www.fox-autorent.com) is a renowned local independent rental firm, while the likes of AVIS (www.avis.com) and HERTZ (www.hertz.com) have offices at the airport and across the city.
163
Getting Around
Getting There
By Plane
Budapest has one major airport, Ferihegy, which is located 15km/9.3 miles from downtown and divided into Terminal 1 and 2, with the latter subsequently split into Terminal 2A and 2B. Terminal 1 is mainly used by budget operators. The 200E bus connects both terminals and runs to Kbnya-Kispest metro station where you can catch a metro to the downtown. Zna Taxi (y 1/3655555, www.zonataxi.eu) operates a reliable taxi service for Ft 3,600 to Ft 4,400 one way, the price depending on which of their zones your final destination lies in. Purchase taxi vouchers at the designated Zna booths that youll find directly outside the terminals. The Airport Shuttle (y 1/296-8555, www. airportshuttle.hu) mini bus service also runs from both terminals and the booking desks are located close to arrivals. A single ticket costs Ft 2,990 and a return is Ft 4,990. Book your return route no later than 24 hours before departure to ensure getting a return seat. Allow plenty of time for this option as other people are also being taken to their hotels and lodgings. On the return leg they pick you up at your accommodation.
By Car
All major Hungarian roads lead to Budapest and a car provides a useful way of getting to the Hungarian capital, although once in the city the driver will have the busy traffic and aggressive drivers to contend with. Try to enter or exit the city outside of rush hour (7am to 9pm and 4:30pm to 6:30pm) and youll cut significant time off your journey.
By Train
Budapest has three main stations, which are named after the directions they originally served and to some extent still do. As well as Eastern destinations Keleti (Eastern) also handles most trains to Prague and Vienna. The other two are Nuygati (Western) and Dli (Southern), with trains from the latter going to Lake Balaton as well as Ljubljana and Zagreb.
By Bus
Budapests new modern bus station is slightly out of the center at Npliget but it is connected to the metro system. Eurolines arrives and departs from here.
Getting Around
By Public Transportation
Budapests public transport system efficiently links all corners of the city and its coverage is dense. It may be getting a bit creaky and dated, as it hasnt changed radically since the 1970s when it was considered a benchmark of Socialist planning, although newer buses and trams are being rolled out continuously. All parts of the city are covered in detail, whether it be by metro, tram, trolley-bus, or bus. Single tickets (Ft 290) or a book of 10 for Ft 2,600 can usually be bought at booths next to the bus stop or station, but its advisable to stock up. Specific ticket kiosks at metro stations sell a wide
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The Savvy Traveler
range of tickets and passes. Validate tickets at the top of the escalators before you get on the metro and as you get on trams and buses. Oneday, three-day and seven-day travelcards that provide unlimited travel cost Ft 1,500, Ft 3,700 and Ft 4,400 respectively, although you need to provide a passport-sized photo for the latter. There is also the option of buying a family ticket for Ft 2,100. This will give 48 hours unlimited travel for 1 or 2 adults with 1 to 7 children between the ages of 6 and 14.
By Taxi
Taxis are abundant and are usually cheaper when you call one as opposed to flagging them down. However, the operators of many taxi firms dont speak English. Rates vary between operators but these three listed companies provide very competitive rates: City Taxi (y 1/2111111), Tele5Taxi (y 1/555-5555), FTaxi (y 1/222-2222).
By Car
Hungarians love to drive and usually aggressively at that. Consequently, with the roads so busy and the actions of the local driver unpredictable, driving around the center can be a headache to say the least and is only for those who love the thrill of city driving in a new environment. Parking spaces are often hard to come by. Parking tickets are required in many central zones and are bought from coin-operated machines.
On Foot
Much of the center can be covered on foot and this is also the best way of seeing beyond the citys key sights, which is where much of Budapests charm lies. On foot you can appreciate the scale of the early 20th-century building phenomenon that gave Budapest its defining look.
Fast Facts
APARTMENT RENTALS Dunahouse (www.dunahouse.hu) offers many apartments for rent (and sale) and has a huge network of offices across the city. IBUSZ (www.ibusz.hu) has a private accommodation service at Ferenciek tere 10 (y 1/485-2767), which provides a homely alternative to staying in a hotel as well as shortterm rentals. Www.budarpads.com has shorter as well as long-term rentals. ATMS/CASHPOINTS
fee per withdrawal, it still remains the safest and best option as transactions are carried out according to a generally favorable wholesale exchange rate. At larger banks you can step in off the street to use the bank machines and security cameras are operated.
BABYSITTING Babysitter Training and Agency Center www.babaklub. com has a babysitter and au pair search function and uses only qualified babysitters, many of whom speak English. You can also use the search function for babysitters who speak English. The renowned Korompay Family Day Care at Menesi t 19 in District 11 (y 1/4665740 or 0630/921-7820) also works in the English language and is run by former kindergarten teachers.
The easiest and most recommendable way to get cash in Budapest is to gain direct access to your account via one of the plethora of ATMs that offer MAESTRO, VISA and MASTERCARD and are now on most downtown streets. Although banks charge a
165
Fast Facts
BANKING HOURS Most banks are open from Monday to Friday from 8am to 4pm, although some larger branches of major banks stay open until 5:30pm. Shops and hotels often cash travelers checks but at inferior rates to banks. B&BS
The same numbers apply when departing Hungary.

DENTISTS DINING
(see Emergencies, below).
Local sites www.budapest hotels.com, www.justbookit.hu and the internationally popular www. tripadvisor.com provide online booking services for a wide range of Budapest hotels and often offer discounts compared to the regular prices you get when approaching a hotel direct. Tourist information portal www.budapest.com also has a hotel search and booking function.
Eating out in Budapest is generally a casual affair with no jacket required except for a few exclusive restaurants (you should enquire when making a booking).
ELECTRICITY Like the rest of continental Europe, Hungary uses twopin plugs and the 230V current. Adapters can be bought in electrical stores such as Media Markt. EMBASSIES The Australian Embassy is at Kirlyhg tr 89, District 12, y 1/457 9777; the Embassy of Canada at Ganz utca 1214, District 2, y 1/392-3360; the UK Embassy at Harmincad utca 6, District 5, y 1/266 2888; Irelands Embassy at Grnit Torony in the Bank Center at Szabadsg tr 79 y 1/302-9600; and the US Embassy at Szabadsg tr 12, y 1/475 4400. EMERGENCIES SOS Dental Service at Kirly uta 14 in District VI, y 1/267-9602 and Stomatologia at Szentkirlyi utca 40 in District VIII, y 1/317-6600 offers around-theclock dental treatment. Dial 104 for an ambulance. EVENT LISTINGS
BIKE RENTALS
Budapestbike (www. budapestbike.hu) at Wesselnyi utca 18 in District VII rents new Gepida Alboins for Ft 3,000 per day and tandems for Ft 5,000 per day with longer and shorter rentals also available. This enterprising company also arranges baths and pub tours.
BUSINESS HOURS Shops tend to be open from 10am to 6pm, although many stay open until 8pm in shopping malls. CAR RENTALS
Fox Autorent has offices at the airport, plus the Intercontinental and NH Hotels. See Car Rentals earlier in this chapter on p 162. Non-EU citizens over the age of 16 can bring in 250ml eau de cologne and 50g perfume, 200 cigarettes, or 50 cigars, or 250g tobacco, or a combination of these, up to 250g, while citizens from EU countries can bring in 800 cigarettes and much larger quantities of alcohol. Non-EU citizens are allowed to enter with 1 litre of distilled alcohol and 2 litres of wine, while EU citizens are permitted to carry 90 litres of wine and 110 litres of beer into Hungary.
www.funzine.hu has up-to-date information about cultural events, and look out for the print version free in hotels. The Budapest card is valid for one adult and one child up to 14 years of age costing Ft 6,500 and Ft 8,000 for 48 and 72 hours. It provides free travel and many sightseeing benefits, including free entry to numerous popular sights (see Passes).
CUSTOMS
FAMILY TRAVEL
GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELERS www. budapest.gayguide.net provides detailed information on accommodation, cruising, restaurants, saunas, events, etc. Note: 2008s Gay Pride march was subject to vicious attacks from far
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The Savvy Traveler
right factions and as such it is uncertain whether it will continue in 2009. Despite this a lively gay scene has started to develop, although unsurprisingly many people in Hungary still choose to stay in the closet.
INSURANCE
It is advisable to arrange travel insurance before departing your home country, although local private medical fees are reasonably priced. With its high standards for a low cost, Hungary is a serious health tourism destination, especially for dental care. For EU citizens emergency treatment is free on presenting a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC).
Internet cafes are increasingly common and you are likely to see them around downtown. Fougou at Wesselnyi utca 57 in District VII (fougou.uw.hu, y 1/7874888) also does photocopying, printing, faxing, and scanning, from 7am to 2am. Www.hotspotter.hu, although in Hungarian, shows all wireless internet hotspots on a map with those marked in blue representing those that are freeclick on the flag and the address comes up.
INTERNET ACCESS LIMOS
city tour commencing every hour from the Chain Bridge and Hotel Intercontinental. Tickets cost Ft 4,500 and are valid for 24 hours. Budapest vision (y 0630/ 9222-111 or 0670/617-4010, www.barbiebus.hu) operates 2-hr bus tours for Ft 4,000, 3-hr for Ft 6,000 and a hop on/hop off service for Ft 4,000, the latter including a 1hr boat tour. Children up to 11 years old can ride for free. The meeting points are next to Dek tr in front of the Hotel Le Meridien or next to the entrance of Dek tr in front of the Evangelical Church on Erzsbet tr. Cityrama (y 1/302-4382, www. cityrama.hu) runs a wide variety of tours in Budapest and beyond.
PASSES The Budapest Card costs Ft 6,500 and Ft 8,000 for 48 and 72 hours respectively. Its valid for one adult and one child up to 14 years of age and offers: unlimited travel on public transport; free or discounted entry to 60 museums and to several sights; reduced price tickets for cultural and folklore programs; discounts in restaurants, spas, and on car rental; travel accident insurance; and other benefits. It is available in 250 tourist and transport outlets across the city. PASSPORTS Passports are issued by the relevant embassy who should also be contacted immediately in the case of lost or stolen passports. You are also required to report the incident to local police and request a a police report. PHARMACIES Pharmacies are plentiful in Budapest and the one at Terz krt 41 (y 1/311-4439) is open around the clock and charges a small fee for an after-hours service. SAFETY Budapest feels remarkably safe at night compared to Western cities of a similar size, although isolated incidents do occur. Be wary of taxi drivers as even those of reputable firms have been known to rip
Www.limohungary.com and www.onelimo.com handle suitably flash fleets. If your luggage is lost on arrival make a claim at the airport immediately. Police stations handle lost property. Check which district your items were lost or stolen in and go to that districts police station, although not much ends up returned.
LOST PROPERTY
MONEY
Hungary uses the Forint (Ft or HUF). The exchange rate varies and at the time of writing $1 was worth Ft 181.5. Hungary is far from a cashless society and the use of credit cards is slowly catching on.
ORIENTATION TOURS City-Circle Sightseeing (y 1/327-6690, www. eurama.eu) runs a hop on/hop off
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Fast Facts
off foreigners. Refuse to take a cab ride should they neglect to run the meter. Pickpockets can be a problem on public transport.
SENIOR TRAVELERS Foreign senior citizens are entitled to the same free public transport right as Hungarians. SMOKING Many Hungarians smoke and Westerners are often shocked at how smoky many bars can be. Restaurants are required to have a non-smoking area and increasingly most do. STAYING HEALTHY Ticks (kullancs) populate woodland areas in parts of Hungary, including the Buda Hills to some extent, and pose a threat in the form of Tick brain-inflaming Borne Encephalitis (TBE) and Lyme Disease. Cover up well in wooded areas and check for the little blood suckers later, especially behind your hair line. They can be twisted out with tweezers, but go straight to a doctor if the insect doesnt come out in one piece. Mosquitoes can be a pest in summer but dont carry malaria in Hungary. Insect repellent can deter both. TAXES
Mobile phones have more than 100 per cent penetration among the population and to dial a mobile you start with 06, followed by the prefix of one of the three providers: TMobile (30), Pannon (20), and Vodafone (70), which is subsequently followed by a seven-digit number. To call a Hungarian mobile from abroad, you start with the country code followed by the mobile providers prefix and then the number.
TICKETS Central ticket offices supply tickets for the full gamut of concerts and performances. Jegymester (Bajcsy-Zsilinszky t 31, y 1/3024433, www.jegymester.hu), Ticket Express (Andrssy t 18, y 0630/ 303-0999), Ticket Express Jkai utca (Jkai utca 40, y 1/353-0692), and Vigad Ticket Service (Vrsmarty tr 1, y 1/317-6417). TIPPING Adding between 10 and 15 per cent to restaurant and bar bills is the norm (be careful to check service hasnt already been added), but also for trips to hairdressers, beauticians, etc. TOILETS Public toilets are not in great supply but can be found at the key transport hubs. You have to pay a small fee to use them, usually around Ft 100. Dropping into hotels discretely is often the best option. TOURIST OFFICES
VAT (Value Added Tax) is known as FA in Hungary and is charged and included on most goods and services at a rate of 20 per cent. VAT can be reclaimed at the airport on the purchase of goods.
TELEPHONES
Cards can be bought at kiosks, while a few can be operated by coins of Ft 10, Ft 20, Ft 50, and Ft 100, although sometimes the coin slots are blocked by fraudsters. The prefix for Budapest is 1, followed by a seven-digit number, but you drop the prefix when calling within the city. When calling Budapest from abroad, it is necessary to dial the country code for Hungary followed by the prefix and seven-digit number. When calling a Hungarian number beyond the capital, use the 06 prefix.
The main tourist office is at Mrcius 15 tr 7 (y 1/2660479) with branches around town, such as St utca 2 in District V next to Dek tr metro station and at all airport terminals.
TOURIST TRAPS Beware of service already being added to restaurant bills in some restaurants. If it is you neednt tip extra unless you were especially pleased with the service. Service charges are often mentioned on menus in English, but if not look out for the word kiszolgals. Avoid getting into unmarked taxis as they can really overcharge,
168
The Savvy Traveler
and there have even been problems reported with reputable companies. Make sure the meter is running when you start your journey. The taxi driver will understand the word meter, if not the Hungarian word is raif you have problem rolling your Rs simply point. The US Embassy carries a black list of rip-off joints to be avoided at all costs at: http://hungary.usembassy. gov/tourist_advisory.html.
TRAVELERS WITH DISABILITIES
Budapest is gradually waking up to the needs of disabled travelers but has a long way to go before it is on a par with Western countries. Getting on and off public transport can be a challenge, although the 4/6 trams that operate on the most important route can be accessed by wheelchairs as well as newer buses.
VAT
See taxes.
Budapest: A Brief History

106 Roman Aquincum, now part of 1873 Buda and Pest merge to
Budapest, becomes the center of lower Pannonia.

896 Seven Magyar tribes ride in to
become one city.

1920 The post-WW1 Treaty of Tri-
capture the Carpathian basin, including the territory known today as Hungary.
955 The Magyars are defeated at
anon sees Hungary lose some two-thirds of its territory.

1956 Revolution against Soviet-
Augsburg, marking the end of their initial expansion into Western Europe.
1000 King Istvn (Stephen) adopts
backed dictatorship sees the streets of Budapest become a battlefield with the Soviets returning to suppress the short period of freedom.
1970S Free-market reforms see Hun-
Christianity leading to the Pope recognizing Hungary as a country.

1361 Buda becomes the capital of
gary become the happiest barracks in the [Warsaw Pact] camp.

1989 A velvet revolution ensues
Hungary.
15411686 Turkish occupation. 1848 Ultimately unsuccessful Revo-
after Hungary plays a major role in helping East Germans escape to the West.
2004 Hungary enters the EU on
lution against Habsburg rule.

1849 The Chain Bridge becomes the
May 1.
2006 Riots ensue after a speech by
first permanent bridge between Buda and Pest.

1967 Reconciliation with Austria
sees period of joint rule.
Prime Minister Ferenc Gyurcsny at a closed party is leaked, in which he says his party screwed up their term of office.
169
Useful Phrases & Menu Terms

Useful Words & Phrases
ENGLISH HUNGARIAN PRONUNCIATION
Hello Good morning Good afternoon Good evening How are you? Fine, thanks Thank you Good-bye Good night Yes No Excuse me Sorry Do you speak English? Can you help me? Do you have...? How much is it? When? What? Give me Where is...? the station a post office a bank a hotel a restaurant a pharmacy the toilet To the right To the left Straight ahead I dont understand What time is it? I would like... ...to eat
J napot! (form.)/ Szia! (inf.) J reggelt! J napot! J estt! Hogy vagy? Jl, ksznm! Ksznm! Viszontltsra!(form.)/ Szia!(inf.) J jszakt! Igen Nem Elnzst Bocsnat Beszl angolul? Tudna segteni? Van...? Mennyibe kerl? Mikor? Mi? Krek Hol van? az lloms egy posta egy bank egy szlloda egy tterem egy gygyszertr a WC Jobbra Balra Egyenesen Nem rtem Mennyi az id? Szeretnk... enni
Your-nopot/ See-ya/ Your-reggelt Your-nopot Your-eshtate Hodge-vodge Jol. cusunum Cusumum Visontlatasra Yo ace-okat Igen Nem Elnayzayst Botch-arnot Besale ongolule Tude-na shegyteni Von Men-yeeiber kerule Me-kore (me-core) Me Kay-wreck Hol-von oz arllomash edge powsta edge bonk edge sarl-odar edge ate-erem george-sertar a vey-say yobb-ro/a bolra edge-en-eshen nem airtem Men-yee oz idur Seret-nayke anybut
emphasize and pronounce the double n

...a room for one night ...a taxi
egy szobt egy jszakra egy taxit
edge sobat edge ace-aka-ro edge taxeet
170
The Savvy Traveler
ENGLISH
HUNGARIAN
PRONUNCIATION
When? Yesterday Today Tomorrow Breakfast Lunch Dinner
Mikor? Tegnap Ma Holnap Reggeli Ebd Vacsora
Me-kore (me-core) Teg-nop Mo Hol-nop Regg-ily Ebade Votch-ore-a
Numbers
NUMBER HUNGARIAN PRONUNCIATION
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 1000 2000 3000
egy kett hrom ngy t hat ht nyolc kilenc tz (dyehth) tizenegy tizenkett tizenhrom tizenngy tizent tizenhat tizenht tizennyolc tizenkilenc hsz harminc negyven tven hatvan hetven nyolcvan kilencven szz ezer ktezer hromezer
edge kett-ure har-um naydge urt hot hate knee-olce kee-lenc tease tease-en-edge tease-en-kett-ure tease-en-har-um tease-en-naydge tease-en-urt tease-en-hot tease-en-hate tease-en-knee-olce tease-en-kee-lenc huwse har-mince nedge-ven urt-ven hot-von het-ven knee-olce-von kee-lenc-ven saz ez-air kate-ez-air har-um ez-air
Hungarian Menu
Most restauarants now have English-language menus but this list is useful in the more basic places, and for translating the daily specials list which is often Hungarian only.
HUNGARIAN ENGLISH
Reggeli Ebd Vacsora
Breakfast Lunch Dinner
171
HUNGARIAN
ENGLISH
Kenyr Vaj Mz Dzsem Sajt Sonka Kolbsz Tojs S Bors Cukor Tej Olaj Ecet Vz svnyz Bor Szraz des Fehr Vrs Sr Plinka Husok Brny Csirke Kacsa Liba Marha Nyl Pulyka Szarvas Borj Comb Mell Mj Sonka Hal Harcsa Kagyl Lazac Pisztrng Rk Ponty Tonhal Burgonya Hasbburgonya Rzs Tszta Zldsg Gomba
Bread Butter Honey Jam Cheese Ham Sausage Egg Salt Peppers Sugar Milk Oil Vinegar Water Mineral water Wine Dry Sweet White Red Beer Fruit brandy Meats Lamb Chicken Duck Goose Beef Rabbit Turkey Venison Veal Leg Breast Liver Ham Fish Catfish Mussles Salmon Trout Crab, prawn Carp Tuna Potatoes French fries Rice Pasta Vegetables Mushroom
172
The Savvy Traveler
HUNGARIAN
ENGLISH
Karfiol Kukorica Lencse Srgarpa Sprga Spent Hal Zldbab Bors Salta Uborka Paradicsom Alma Dinnye Eper Narancs szibarack Srgabarack Szilva Di Gesztenye Mlna Gulysleves Bableves Halszl Tlttt kposzta Hortobgyi palacsinta Somli galuska Prklt Harcsapapriks Gundel palacsinta
Cauliflower Maize Lentils Carrot Asparagus Spinach Fish Green beans Peas Lettuce Cucumber Tomato Apple Melon Strawberry Orange Peach Apricot Plum Walnut Chestnut Raspberry Goulash soup Bean soup Fish soup Stuffed cabbage Pancake with minced meat Sponge cake with chocolate sauce, nuts, raisins and cream Stew Catfish paprika with dumplings or pasta Pancake with walnut, chocolate sauce and cream
173
Toll-free Numbers & Websites
Toll-free Numbers & Websites

AER LINGUS BRITISH AIRWAYS NORTHWEST AIRLINES
y 800/474-7424 in the U.S y 800/247-9297 in y 01/886-8844 in Ireland the U.S. www.aerlingus.com y 0870/850-9-850 in
AIR CANADA
y 800/225-2525
www.nwa.com
QANTAS
y 888/247-2262
www.aircanada.ca
AIR FRANCE
Britain www.british-airways.com
CONTINENTAL AIRLINES
y 800/227-4500 in
the U.S.
y 612/131313 in
Australia www.qantas.com
SCANDINAVIAN AIRLINES
y 800/525-0280
www.continental.com
DELTA AIR LINES
y 800/237-2747 in
the U.S. www.airfrance.com
AIR NEW ZEALAND
y 0820-820-820 in France y 800/221-1212

www.delta.com
EASYJET
y 800/221-2350 in
the U.S.
y 0070/727-727 in
Sweden
y 800/262-1234 or -2468
in the U.S. y 800/663-5494 in Canada y 0800/737-000 in New Zealand www.airnewzealand.com
ALITALIA
No U.S. number www.easyjet.com

IBERIA
y 70/10-20-00 in Denmark y 358/(0)20-386-000 in

Finland
y 800/772-4642 in
the U.S. y 902/400-500 in Spain www.iberia.com
ICELANDAIR
y 815/200-400 in Norway
www.scandinavian.net
SWISS INTERNATIONAL AIRLINES
y 800/223-5730 in
the U.S. y 8488-65641 in Italy www.alitalia.it
AMERICAN AIRLINES
y 800/223-5500 in
the U.S. y 354/50-50-100 in Iceland www.icelandair.is
KLM
y 877/359-7947 in
the U.S.
y 0848/85-2000 in
Switzerland www.swiss.com
UNITED AIRLINES
y 800/433-7300
www.aa.com
AUSTRIAN AIRLINES
y 800/374-7747 in
the U.S. y 020/4-747-747 in the Netherlands www.klm.nl
LUFTHANSA
y 800/241-6522
www.united.com
US AIRWAYS
y 800/843-0002 in
the U.S.
y 800/428-4322
www.usairways.com
VIRGIN ATLANTIC AIRWAYS
y 43/(0)5-1789 in Austria
www.aua.com
BMI
y 800/645-3880 in
the U.S.
No U.S. number y 0870/6070-222 in Britain www.flybmi.com
y 800/862-8621 in
continental U.S.
y 49/(0)-180-5-838426
in Germany www.lufthansa.com
y 0870/380-2007 in
Britain www.virgin-atlantic.com
174
Index
Index
See also Accommodations and Restaurant indexes, below.
A
A38 Ship (music venue), 126, 133 Academy of Sciences, 52 Agricultural Ministry, 41, 51 airports, 163 llatkert (zoo), 23, 85 All Saints Day, 161 American Embassy, 51 Amphitheater, 47 amusement park (Vidmpark), 83, 84 Andrssy utca, 14 animal attractions, 23, 83, 85 antiques, 7172 apartment rentals, 140, 164 Applied Arts Museum, 130 architecture. See also Art Nouveau Batthyny tr, 59 Chain Bridge, 11, 59 Corvin tr, 59 Dob tr, 157 Fishermans Bastion, 6263 F tr, 47 Great Market Hall, 77 Great Synagogue, 15, 55 Hungarian National Bank, 52 Keleti Station, 131 Keszthely, 153 Matilda towers, 53 Moszkva tr, 48 Nyugati Station, 131 Opera House, 89 Parliament, 1011, 51 Pcs Cathedral, 155 Royal Palace, 3, 61 St. Matthias Church, 62 Szchenyi Gygyfrd s Uszoda, 27 Szchenyi tr, 155 University Church, 53 Vajdahunyad Castle, 1314 Arena Plaza, 78, 133 rpd, 7 Arrow Cross Party, 15, 57 art galleries and museums, 66, 7172, 77, 130, 131 Applied Arts Museum, 130
Csontvry Museum, 155 Ernst Museum, 130 Ferenc Liszt Music Academy, 24 Fine Arts Museum, 14, 130 Kieselbach Gallery and Auction House, 7172 Ludwig Museum, 130 Mai Man Gallery, 130 Millenris, 131 Mcsarnok, 131 Mumus, 123 National Gallery, 3233, 131 Opera House, 89 Pcs Cathedral, 155 University Church, 53 VAM Design Center, 132 Virg Judit M-terem Gallery and Auction House, 72 Art Nouveau, 2225 llatkert, 85 Bals Villa, 23 Bed Hz, 25 Budai Vigad, 59 Dob utca School, 24 Ferenc Liszt Music Academy, 24 Four Seasons Gresham Palace, 52 Gellrt Baths, 25 Geological Institute, 23 Kazinczy utca Synagogue, 57 Klcsey Ferenc Gimnzium, 23 Museum of Applied Arts, 15 National Savings Treasury, 24, 52 Roosevelt tr, 5253 j Szinhaz, 24 Watertower, 90 Zala Villa, 23 Zoo, 23 arts and entertainment, 126134 arts centers, 131132 best bets, 126 cinema, 133 classical music, 132133 dance, 133 galleries and museums, 130, 131 live music, 133, 134 maps, 127129 ATMs, 164
Attila Gere winery, 151 August Cukrszda, 37
B
B7 (club), 123124 Bbszi nhz (puppet theater), 39 babysitting, 164 Badacsony, 150 Bals Villa, 23 Balatonfred, 153 ballet, 133 Bank Center, 52 banking hours, 165 bars, 116120, 147. See also summer bars; wine bars baths, 3, 13, 20, 2529, 32, 90, 158 Batthyny tr, 59 B&Bs, 165 beach (Sifok), 153 Bcsi kapu tr, 32, 64 Bed Beach (club), 110, 121122 Bed Hz, 25 Belgrade Orthodox Church, 147 Belvros, 5053 Benedictine Abbey, Tihany, 153 Benedictine Monastery of Pannonhalma, 150 bike rentals, 165 Bio Market, 77 Blaha Lujaz tr, 42 boating, 85 Boatyard Island, 89 books in English, 72 Braille Institute, 23 Budafest Summer Festival, 160 Buda Hills, 8687 Budai als rakpart, 59 Budai Vigad, 59 Buda Palace. See Royal Palace Budapest favorite moments in, 24 history of, 168 off the beaten track, 10 Budapest Autumn Festival, 161 Budapest Card, 165, 166 Budapest Fringe Festival, 160 Budapest International Wine Festival, 161 Budapest Spring Festival, 160 Buddha Beach, 110, 124 buses, 149, 163
175
Index
C
Caledonian Scottish Pub, 110, 116 Capella (club), 124 carpets, Turkish, 33 car rentals, 162, 163, 165 Cashpoints, 164 Castle District, 3, 4, 11, 32, 6064 Castle Gardens, 61 castles and palaces Eger Castle, 157 Festetics Palace, 153 Royal Palace (Budapest), 61 Royal Palace (Visegrd), 147 Vajdahunyad Castle, 1314 Cave Church, 20 Cave Hospital and Bunker, 63 cell phones, 162 cemetery at Korma utca, 57 Centenary Monument, 89 ceramics, 66, 7273 ChaChaCha Kert (club), 122 Chain Bridge, 11, 59 chair lift, 87 Charles IV, King, 62 child care, 164 childrens activities. See kids, activities for Childrens Railway, 39, 48, 87 Christmas, 53, 161 churches. See religious sites Church of Saint Mary, 155 cinema, 78, 133 Circus, 83 Cirko-geyzir (cinema), 126, 133 Citadel (Citadella), 19, 20 City Park, 8285 classical music, 132133 climate, 161162 Club Inside, 110, 124 clubs, 123124 coffee houses, 3437 Cog Wheel Railway, 87 Columbus Jazz Club, 126, 134 Communist Budapest, 39, 4248, 5152, 87 Corvin Mozi, 42 Corvin tr, 59 courtyards, 83 CoXx Mens Club, 110, 124 Csodk Palotja, 39 Csontvry, Tivadar, 131, 155 Csontvry Museum, 155 currency, 166 customs, 165
D
dance, 133 Danube bend, 146147 Danube River, 90 Danubius Health Spa Resort, 90 day trips and excursions, 146158 Danube bend, 146147 Eger, 156158 Lake Balaton, 152153 Pcs, 154155 wine country, 148151 Dli Station, 163 dentists, 165 design objects, 73 dining. See also Restaurant Index best bets, 92 dress code for, 165 Hungarian cuisine, 98102 Hungarian menu terms, 171172 international cuisine, 102108 maps, 9397 disabilities, travelers with, 168 Disznk winery, 151 Dob tr, 157 Dob utca School, 24 Dokk (club), 110, 124 driving, 163, 164
E
Early Christian Cemetery, 155 Ecseri Piac, 76 Eger, 149, 156158 Eger Castle, 157 Eger Cathedral, 157158 Egerszalk Thermal Resort, 158 electricity, 165 embassies, 165 emergency services, 165 English-language books, 72 Erkel Szinhz, 132 Ernst Museum, 130 Erdy mansion, 64 Erzsbet Bridge, 53 Erzsbet lookout tower, 87 Esztergom, 147 Etyek, 149150 Etyeki Kria, 149150 event listings, 133, 165 exchange rate, 166
Fny utca piac, 77 Ferenciek tere, 53 Ferenc Liszt Music Academy, 24, 126, 132 Ferenc Pusks stadium, 48 Festetics Palace, 153 festivals, 160161 Festival Theater, 131 Fszek Club, 110, 124 Fidesz, 15 Filter Klub (music venue), 134 Fine Arts Museum, 14, 126, 130 Fishermans Bastion, 6163 flea markets, 76 Flrin tr, 48 flowers, 77 Fogaskerek, 87 Fldtani Intzet, 23 folk art, 17, 77 Fon Budai Zenehz (music venue), 126, 134 food, specialty, 1718, 3637, 52, 63, 66, 77, 79, 119 F tr, 47 Frankel Le utca Synagogue, 57 Franz Joseph I, 18, 61, 133 Freedom Square, 84 Freedom Statue, 19 Frhlich Cukrszda, 3637 full-day tours, 620 one day, 611 two days, 1215 three days, 1620
G
gardens Castle Gardens, 61 Gellrt Baths, 27 Japanese Garden, 90 Lukcs Gygyfrd, 29 gay and lesbian travelers, 28, 124, 165166 Gellrt Baths, 20, 25, 27 Gellrt Hill, 3, 1820 Geological Institute, 23 Giero (music venue), 134 gifts, 66, 77 Gdr (music venue), 126, 134 go-karting, 84 golf, 89 Gozsdu Udvar, 56, 57 Great Market Hall, 3, 1718, 77 Great Synagogue, 15, 5556, 161 Gl Baba tomb, 31 Gyermekvast, 39, 87
F
fashion, 66, 7375 Felvonulsi tr, 4, 43
176
Index
Gypsy music and dance, 134 Gyurcsny, Ferenc, 51, 87, 168
Istvn, King. See Saint Stephen I Istvn Dob Museum, 157
H
Hajgyri sziget, 89, 161 Hajs Alfrd Nemzeti Sportuszoda, 29, 90 hats, 66, 73 Hercules Villa, 47 Herend, 7273 Heroes Square, 7, 14, 42, 43 Herzl, Tivadar, 15, 55 Hilton Dominican Court, 160 historical sites, 47. See also Communist Budapest; Revolutionary Budapest Castle District, 11 Cave Hospital and Bunker, 63 Vienna Gate, 64 history of Budapest, 168 Holocaust Memorial Center, 57 Honvd tr, 84 Hsk tere, 7 hotels. See Accommodations Index House of Terror, 46 Hungarian Foundation of Photography, 130 Hungarian Jewish Museum, 55 Hungarian language, 169172 dining, 170172 numbers, 170 useful phrases, 169170 Hungarian National Bank, 52 Hungarian National Folk Ensemble, 59 Hungarian Philharmonic Orchestra, 132 Hungarian Revolution, 19, 41, 168 Hungarian Socialist Party, 15 Hungarian State Television, 52
J
Jnos-hegy, 87 Japanese Garden, 90 jewelry, 66, 75 Jewish Budapest, 4, 1415, 3637, 5457, 79, 161 Jzsefvrosi Piac, 76
K
Kroly kert, 84 Katapult Caf & Pub, 118 Kazinczy utca Synagogue, 57 Keleti Station, 131, 163 Kerepesi Cemetery, 161 Keszthely, 153 kids, activities for Agricultural Ministry, 51 llatkert, 85 Applied Arts Museum, 130 Arena Plaza, 78 Cave Hospital and Bunker, 63 Chain Bridge, 11 Childrens Railway, 39, 48 Circus, 83 Dob tr, 157 Eger Castle, 157 Eger Cathedral, 157158 Egerszalk Thermal Resort, 158 Ferenc Pusks stadium, 48 Fishermans Bastion, 6263 Fogaskerek, 87 Gellrt Baths, 27 Gellrt Hill, 20 Geological Institute, 23 Gl Baba tomb, 31 Gyermekvast, 87 Hajs Alfrd Nemzeti Sportuszoda, 90 Heroes Square, 7 Idkerk, 85 Imre Nagy Bridge statue, 4142, 51 Jnos-hegy, 87 Japanese Garden, 90 Klauzl tr, 57 Magdalene Tower, 6364 Mammut, 78 Millenris, 131
Millennium Underground, 78 MOM Park, 78 Museum of Applied Arts, 15, 25 Musical Fountain, 89, 90 Musical Well, 90 National Museum, 33 Palatinus Strandfrd, 29, 90 St. Margarets Abbey, 90 Szabadsg tr, 5152 Szchenyi Frd Baths, 13 Szchenyi Gygyfrd s Uszoda, 27 Szchenyi tr, 155 tour for, 3839 traveling with, 165 Vajdahunyad Castle, 1314, 85 Vrosligeti Mjgplya, 8485 Vidmpark, 83, 84 Vigdo tr, 53 Watertower, 90 Westend City Center, 78 Kieselbach Gallery and Auction House, 7172 Kincsem Park, 161 King Matthias Fountain, 61 Kirly Gygyfrd, 28, 32 Klauzl tr, 57 Kogart, 14 Klcsey Ferenc Gimnzium, 23 Kossuth Lajos tr, 41 Kztrsasg tr, 42 Kreinbacher winery, 150
L
Lake Balaton, 150, 152153 last Pasha, memorial of, 32 Lechner, dn, 15, 23, 24, 52 Libeg, 87 Libyan Embassy, 23 limos, 166 live music, 133, 134 lodging. See also Accommodations Index best bets, 136 maps, 137139 lost property, 166 Ludwig Museum, 126, 130, 131 Lukcs Cukrzda, 14 Lukcs Gygyfrd, 2829, 32
I
ice skating, 8485 Idkerk, 85 IMAX cinema, 78 Imre Nagy Bridge statue, 4142, 51 Inner City Parish Church, 33 insurance, 166 internet, 166
177
Index
M
Madch Imre tr arch, 56 Magdalene Tower, 6364 Mai Man Gallery, 130 malls, 66, 78 Margaret Island, 34, 29, 8890 markets, 66 Belvrosi Vsrcsarnok, 52 Bio Market, 77 Christmas, 17 Ecseri Piac, 76 Fny utca piac, 77 flea, 66, 76 food, 66, 77 Great Market Hall, 1718, 77 Jzsefvrosi Piac, 76 PESCA, 48, 76 Vrsmarty tr, 53 Matilda towers, 53 Matthias Corvinus, King, 7, 62 Mtys Templom, 11, 62, 126, 132 Memento Park, 4, 43, 46 Millenris, 131 Millennium City Center, 131 Millennium Underground, 78 Minaret, 157 Minorita Church, 157 mobile phones, 162, 167 Monarchia winery, 149 money, 166 Mosque of Pasha Gazi Kasim, 155 Moszkva tr, 48 Mcsarnok, 131 Mumus, 110, 123 Munkcsy, Mihly, 131 Museum Cukrszda, 119 Museum Kvhz, 4 Museum of Applied Arts, 15, 25 Museum of Ethnography, 51 museums. See also art galleries and museums Bed Hz, 25 Geological Institute, 23 House of Terror, 46 Hungarian Jewish Museum, 55 Istvn Dob Museum, 157 Museum of Applied Arts, 15, 25 Museum of Ethnography, 51 National Museum, 33 Palace of Wonders, 39
Railway Museum, 39 Serbian Orthodox Museums, 147 Terror House, 1415 Zsolnay Museum, 155 music classical, 132133 stores, 78 venues, 118, 121123, 133, 134, 158, 160 Musical Fountain, 89, 90 Musical Well, 90 Music History Institute, 64 Mvsz (cinema), 133 Mvsz (coffee house), 35 Mvszetek Palotja, 131 Mzeumok jszakja, 160
Palace of Wonders, 39 Szabadsg tr, 84 Opera House, 4, 89, 126, 133 Orbn, Victor, 15 rkmozg (cinema), 133, 160 Ostrom utca, 31, 32 outdoor activities, 8290 Buda Hills, 8687 City Park, 8285 Margaret Island, 8890 outdoor safety, 167
P
Palace of Arts, 131 Palace of Wonders, 39 palaces. See castles and palaces Palatinus Strandfrd, 29, 90 Palau de la Musica, 24 Plinka (liqueur), 80 Pannonhalma, 150 Papp Lsl Budapest Sport Arena, 133134 Prizsi udvar, 53 Parliament, 3, 1011, 41, 51 Prtos, Gyula, 15 passes, 166 passports, 166 Pauer, Gyula, 57 Pcs, 154155 Pcs Cathedral, 155 perfume, 7879 PESCA, 48, 76, 134 pharmacies, 166 Piaf (club), 110, 124 playgrounds, 84, 123, 131 Pk, Tams, 80 Post Office building, 48 public transportation, 163164 pubs, 116120 Puppet Theater, 39
N
Ndor Terem, 132133 Nagy, Imre, 4143, 51 National Archives building, 64 National Dance Theater, 133 National Gallery, 3233, 61, 126, 131 National Museum, 33 National Savings Treasury, 24, 52 neighborhood walks, 5064 Belvros, 5053 Castle District, 6064 Jewish quarter, 5457 Watertown (Vzivros), 5859 New Theater, 24 New Years Eve, 161 nightlife, 110124 bars and pubs, 116120 best bets, 110 clubs, 123124 gay clubs, 124 maps, 111115 summer bars and venues, 121123 wine bars, 120121 Night of the Museums, 160 Nyugati Station, 131, 163
R
Radio Building, 42 Railway Museum, 39 religious objects, 79 religious sites Belgrade Orthodox Church, 147 Benedictine Abbey, Tihany, 153 Benedictine Monastery of Pannonhalma, 150 Cave Church, 20 Church of Saint Mary, 155 Eger Cathedral, 157158
O
buda, 47 budai Trsakr, 133 Old Buda, 47 Old Mans Music Pub, 118 open spaces Blaha Lujaz tr, 42 Heroes Square, 7 Honvd tr, 84 Japanese Garden, 90 Kroly kert, 84 Margaret Island, 89 Memento Park, 46
178
Index
religious sites (cont.) Frankel Le t Synagogue, 57 Great Synagogue, 15, 5556 Gl Baba tomb, 31 Inner City Parish Church, 33 Kazinczy utca Synagogue, 57 Magdalene Tower, 6364 Pcs Cathedral, 155 Rumbach utca Synagogue, 56 St. Annes Church, 59 St. Margarets Abbey, 90 St. Matthias Church, 62 St. Stephens Basilica (Szent Istvn Basilica), 9, 52 University Church, 53 Retro Beach, 110, 124 Revolutionary Budapest, 4043, 51 Rippl-Rna, Jzsef, 131 Roman ruins, 47, 48 Roosevelt tr, 5253 Rose Hill, 31 Royal Palace (Budapest), 3, 4, 11, 61, 161 Royal Palace (Visegrd), 147 Rzsadomb, 31 Rudas Gygyfrd s Uszoda, 4, 2728, 32 Rumbach utca Synagogue, 56 Ruszwurm Cukrszda, 37, 63
S
safety, 166167, 167 St. Annes Church, 59 St. Margarets Abbey, 90 St. Matthias Church, 11, 62, 126, 132 St. Stephens Basilica (Szent Istvn Basilica), 9, 52, 160 St. Stephens Day, 161 Saint Stephen I (Szent Istvn), 7, 10, 62, 168 Schulek, Frigyes, 62, 63, 87 secondhand stores, 75, 76 senior travelers, 167 Serbian Embassy, 4243 Serbian Orthodox Museums, 147 shoes, 66, 76 Shoes on the Danube Promenade memorial, 57 shopping, 6680 antiques, 7172 art, 7172, 77
best bets, 66 ceramics, 7273 fashion, 7375 folk art, 77 food, 77, 79 Great Market Hall, 1718 jewelry, 75 maps, 6770 perfumes, 7879 on Vci utca, 17 wine and spirits, 80 Siege Street, 31, 32 Sighi@oaras clocktower, 1314 Sifok, 153 skiing, 87 smoking, 167 Socialism, 43 Socialist Party headquarters, 42 Soml, 150 Soviet War Memorial, 47, 51, 84 spas, 141142, 144. See also baths special events, 160161 special interest tours, 2248 Art Nouveau, 2225 baths, 2629 coffee houses, 3437 Communist Budapest, 4448 for kids, 3839 revolutionary Budapest, 4043 Turkish traces, 3033 spirits, 66, 80 sports, 48, 87, 89 Statue Park, 4, 46 Stephen I, King. See Saint Stephen I Suleiman the Magnificent, 31 summer bars, 4, 121123 Summer on the Chain Bridge, 161 swimming, 153 Egers Thermal Baths, 158 Gellrt Baths, 20 Hajs Alfrd Nemzeti Sportuszoda, 29, 90 Lukcs Gygyfrd, 28 Palatinus Strandfrd, 29 in Sifok, 153 Szabadsg Bridge, 18 Szabadsg tr, 5152 Szchenyi Frd Baths, 3, 13 Szchenyi Gygyfrd s Uszoda, 27
Szchenyi tr, 155 Szekszrd, 150 Szentendre, 147 Szent Gellrt, 19, 20 Szent Istvn. See Saint Stephen I Szent Istvn Basilica. See St. Stephens Basilica Szent Istvn tr, 52 Szent Jobb Chapel, 9 Szpmvszeti Mzeum, 14 Szeremley, 150 Sziget Festival, 4, 89, 161 Sziget Klub, 89, 123
T
Tncsis Mihly utca, 64 taxes, 167 taxis, 164, 167168 telephones, 167, 173 tennis, 89 Terror House, 1415 tickets, 167 ticks, 167 Tihany, 153 Time Wheel, 85 tipping, 167 Tirol strudels, 37 Titanic Film Festival, 160 toilets, 167 Tokaj, 150 Toldi (cinema), 160 Tth rpd stny, 64 tourist offices, 160, 167 tourist traps, 167168 tours, guided, 90, 166 toys, 80 Traf Br Tang (music venue), 134 Traf House of Contemporary Arts, 126, 131 trains, 163 Childrens Railway, 39, 48 Fogaskerek, 87 Gyermekvast, 87 Railway Museum, 39 trams, 59 transportation, public, 163164 Treaty of Trianon, 168 Turkish baths, 32 Turkish traces, 3033
U
j Szinhaz, 24 UNESCO sites, 150, 155 Unicum (liqueur), 80 University Church, 53 Urnia (cinema), 133, 160
179
Index
V
Vci utca, 17 Vajdahunyad Castle, 1314, 85 VAM Design Center, 132 Vrosligeti Mjgplya, 8485 Vasttrtneti Park, 39 Vidmpark (amusement park), 83, 84 Vienna Gate, 32, 64 views Angelica, 37 Bals Villa, 23 in Castle District, 64 Chain Bridge, 11, 59 Childrens Railway, 39 Corvin Kvz, 59 Dob tr, 157 in Esztergom, 147 Ferenciek tere, 53 Fishermans Bastion, 63 Fogaskerek, 87 Jnos-hegy, 87 Libeg, 87 Madch Imre tr, 56 from Margaret Island, 34 Minaret, 157 Royal Palace, 61 St. Stephens Basilica, 9 TV Tower, 155 Vigdo tr, 53 Villny, 151 Virg Judit M-terem Gallery and Auction House, 72 Visegrd, 147 Vzivros, 5859 Vrsmarty (cinema), 160 Vrsmarty tr, 53
Zsolnay Museum, 155 Zsolnay tiles, 15, 24, 57, 64, 155
Accommodations Index
Andrssy Hotel MaMaison, 136, 140 Artotel, 140 Atrium Fashion Hotel, 140 Beatrix Panzi, 140 Best Western Hotel Art, 140 Boscolo New York Palace, 136, 140141 Carlton Budapest, 141 Citadella Hotel, 136, 141 City Panzi Ring, 141 Corinthia Grand Royal Hotel, 136, 141 Danubius Grand Hotel Margitsziget, 141 Danubius Health Spa Resort Helia, 136, 141 Danubius Health Spa Resort Margitsziget, 136, 141142 Danubius Hotel Astoria, 136, 142 Danubius Hotel Gellrt, 136, 142 Easy Hotel, 142 Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace Budapest, 136, 142143 Gerlczy Rooms Deluxe, 143 Hotel Astra, 143 Hotel Panda, 143 Kempinski Hotel Corvinus, 143 Lnchid 19, 136, 143 Le Mridien Budapest, 143 Marriott, 136, 144 Medosz, 136, 144 NH Hotel, 144 Ramada Plaza, 136, 144 Sofitel Budapest Maria Dorottya, 136, 144 Uhu Villa, 136, 144 Zara Boutique Hotel, 136, 144
W
walking around, 164 in Castle District, 64 Danube River, 90 Szentendre, 147 waterpark, 158 Watertower, 90 Watertown, 5859 weather, 161162 websites, useful, 162, 173 wine, 66, 80 wine bars, 120121 wine country, 148151 Wunderlich winery, 151
Restaurant Index
Albrdos, 98 Angelica, 37, 59 Arany Kavir, 102 Arcade Bistro, 98 Arigato, 102103 Arriba Taqueria, 92, 103 Artesano Spanyol tterem s Tapas Br, 103
Z
Zala Villa, 23 Zoo, 23, 85 Zsolnay (store), 73
Astoria, 36 Bagolyvr, 98 Balletcip, 92, 103 Baraka, 92, 103, 140 Bar Ladino, 116 Belvrosi Vsrcsarnok, 52 Biarritz, 98 Bock Bistro, 98 Borbirsg, 98 Buena Vista, 116 Caf Alibi, 36 Caf Bouchon, 98 Caf Csiga, 116 Caf Farger, 51 Caf Gerbaud, 17, 35 Caf Gusto, 103 Caf Kr, 92, 99 Callas, 9 Cari Mama Pizzeria, 57 Carne di Hall, 103 Castro Bisztr, 116117 Centrl Kvhz, 3536 Chez Daniel, 103 Corvin Kvz, 59 Csalagny 26, 92, 99 Cyrano, 103104 Deep Water, 35 Dryn, 117 Dunapark, 37 Faustos tterem, 92, 104 Faustos Osteria, 104 Fszek, 92, 99 Firksz, 99 Fuji, 92, 104 Flemle, 92, 99 Gerlczy Kvhz, 36, 100, 143 Goa, 104 Govinda Vegetrinus tterem, 104 Gresham Kvhz, 25, 92, 104 Gl Baba Szerj, 33 Gundel, 100 Hannas Kosher Kitchen, 100 Hrom Testvr, 31 Haxen Kirly, 100 Holdudvar, 123 Iguana Bar & Grill, 105 Il Terzo Cerchio, 92, 104105 Indigo, 92, 105 Jardin de Paris, 105 Jelen (bar), 118 Kacsa Vendgl, 100 Kdr tkezde, 57, 92, 100101 Kafana Grill Restaurant, 92, 105 Krolyi tterem-Kvhz, 101 Kt Szerecsen Kvhz, 105
180
Index
Kisbuda Gyngye, 101 Kiskakukk, 101 Kispipa, 101 Klassz, 92, 101 Kleves, 101102 Lanzhou, 42 Le Bourbon, 143 Lou-Lou, 105 Lukcs Cukrszda, 14 M!, 105106 Malign Bortterem, 102 Marxism, 47 Matteo, 92, 102 Menza, 92, 102 Millennium da Pippo, 106 Mir Caf, 61 Mirror Caf & Restaurant, 36
Momotaro Ramen, 92, 106 Mosselen, 106 Museum Cukrszda, 119 Mvsz, 35 Nagyi Palacsintzja, 59 New York Kvhz, 35, 141 Nusantara, 106 Ocen Bar & Grill, 106 Okay Italia, 106 Okuyama no Sushi, 92, 106 Pampas Argentine Steak House, 106 Paris-Budapest Caf, 106107 Pata Negra, 107 Peppers! Mediterranean Grill, 107
Pick Mrkaruhz, 79 Pozsonyi Kisvendgl, 92, 102 Remz, 107 Ristorante Krizia, 107 Ruszwurm Cukrszda, 37, 63 Segal, 107 Sirly, 120 Spoon, 92, 107108 Taj Mahal, 92, 108 Three Brothers, 31 Tom George Restaurant & Caf, 108 Trattoria Toscana, 92, 108 TV Tower, 155 Vadrzsa, 92, 102 Vrosligeti Srstor, 85
181
Photo Credits
Photo Credits
Front Matter Credits: i: Bruce Yuan-Yue Bi/PCL; Glenys Hart/Fotolibra; Shutterstock. All images: Bianca Otero with the following exceptions: Kempinski Hotel Corvinus Budapest: p 143 top. Uhu Villa: p 144. Courtesy of Alamy: p 49 ( Kevin Foy). Courtesy of The Four Seasons Hotel, Gresham Palace Budapest: p 142 bottom. Courtesy of Gerlczy Rooms Deluxe: p 142 top. Courtesy of Lnchid 19 Design Hotel: p 143 bottom. Courtesy of PCL: p 11 bottom ( Adrian Pope); p 18 both, p 160 ( Bruce Yuan-Yue Bi); p 155 ( Stephen L Saks). Source: Budapest Gyogyfrdi ZRT: p 3, p 13 bottom, p 27, p 28 bottom. Many thanks to the hotels and venues featured that kindly provided the photographer with images.
182
Notes
Notes
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UK 8 10 12 14 16 18 20
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UK Metric (cm) 91 97 102 107 112
US 36 38 40 42 44
Europe 46 48 50 52 54
UK Metric (Ht cm) 109 122 140 147 152 157
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110 F 100 F 90 F 80 F 70 F 60 F 50 F 40 F 32 F 20 F 10 F 0 F -10 F -20 F -30 C -10 C -18 C 0 C 10 C 20 C 40 C
30 C
To convert......................... multiply by inches to centimeters.................... 2.54 centimeters to inches...................... .39 feet to meters...................................30 meters to feet................................3.28 yards to meters.................................91 meters to yards..............................1.09 miles to kilometers........................1.61 kilometers to miles......................... .62 1 ft = .30 m 1 m = 3.3 ft 1 mile = 1.6 km 1 km = .62 mile
To convert..........................multiply by Ounces to grams......................... 28.35 Grams to ounces.............................035 Pounds to kilograms....................... .45 Kilograms to pounds.....................2.20 1 ounce = 28 grams 1 pound = .4555 kilogram 1 gram = .04 ounce 1 kilogram = 2.2 pounds
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32 F = 0 C
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22 Smart Ways to See the City Csalogny u.

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A John Wiley and Sons, Ltd, Publication

2 The Best Special-Interest Tours

3 The Best Neighborhood Walks

4 The Best Shopping

5 The Best of the Outdoors

6 The Best Dining

Dining Best Bets 92 Budapest Dining A to Z

7 The Best Nightlife

Nightlife Best Bets 110 Budapest Nightlife A to Z

8 The Best Arts & Entertainment

9 The Best Lodging

Lodging Best Bets 136 Budapest Lodging A to Z

10 The Best Day Trips & Excursions 145

The Savvy Traveler

A Note from the Editorial Director

Kelly Regan, Editorial Director Frommers Travel Guides

About the Author

Star Ratings, Icons & Abbreviations

An Invitation to the Reader

F t Budai als rakpart