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Fiber Formulas
Commonly used fibre formulas and reference guides used by the textile fibre industry.
Fiber Formulae
Name Micronaire value of cotton (Micrograms per inch) Denier (for man-made fibres) Micron (micro-metre) (m) (fibre diameter) (normally for Wool) Denier Micronaire Value Fibre diameter ( ) Tenacity values: Kg / mm2 Description Average weight of 1 inch of fibre in Micrograms (1/1000,000 gms) Weight in gms per 9000 metres of fibre 0.001 mm 0.354 x Micronaire value 2.824 x Denier 11.3 x ( dtex / sp.gr) = 11.9 x (den / sp.gr) 9 x (g/den) x Sp.gr. = RKM value x Sp.gr. = (g/tex) x Sp.gr.
Tenacity Conversion
Tenacity Conversions (Free Strength) g = gms g/den g/den 1 g/tex ( g/den ) x 9 g/tex ( g/tex ) / 9 1 ( g/tex ) / 10 g/dtex cN/tex
Spinning Formulas
Formulas used for yarn spinning production including various yarn numbering system conversions
Common Formulas
Grams per Meter Grams per Yard Tex Ne DRAFT DRAFT DRAFT 0.5905 / Ne 0.54 / Ne den x .11 = 1000/Nm = Mic/25.4 Nm/1.693 (feed weight in g/m) / (delivery weight in g/m) Tex (feed)/Tex(delivery) delivery roll surface speed/feed roll surface speed
No. of hanks delivered by m/c (Length delivered in m/min)/1.605grams per meter = 0.5905/Ne
Drawframe
Break draft Main draft Total draft surface speed of 2nd roller / surface speed of back roller surface speed of 1st roller / surface speed of 2nd( middle) roller surface speed of delivery roller / surface of feed roller (0.2836 x L x effy x Nd) / (Ne) L - delivery speed in m/min Production in kgs / 8 hrs effy - efficiency Ne - english count Nd - No of delvieries
(FRD x FRrpm x 3.14 x 60 x effy x Nd) / (Ne x 840 x 36 x 2.2045) FRD - front roller dia in inches Production in kgs / hr FRrpm - front roller rpm effy - efficiency Ne - Sliver hank Nd - number of deliveries
Winding
(0.2836 x L x effy x Nd) / (Ne) L - delivery speed in m/min Production in kgs / 8 hrs effy - efficiency Ne - english count Nd - No of delvieries ( L x 1.0936 x 60 x effy ) / (hank (Ne) x 36 x 840 x 2.2045) L - delivery speed in m/min Production in kgs / hr effy- efficiency Ne - English count ( number of 840 yards in one pound) 840 - constant 2.2045- to convert from lbs to kilograms
Carding
( L x 1.0936 x 60 x effy ) / (hank (Ne) x 36 x 840 x 2.2045) Production in kgs / hr L - delivery speed in m/min effy- efficiency Ne - English count ( number of 840 yards in one pound)
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840 - constant 2.2045- to convert from lbs to kilograms (L x Ktex x 60 x effy) / ( 1000 ) L - delivery speed in m/min Production in kgs / hr Ktex- sliver count in Ktex (kilotex) effy - efficiency 1000- to convert to kilograms from grams (0.2836 x L x effy) / (Ne) Production in kgs / 8 hrs L - delivery speed in m/min effy - efficiency Ne - English count (Hank x Nd) /( Ne x 2.2045) Production / 8 hrs Hank = no of hank (840 yards)delivered by the machine Nd = no of deliveries Ne = hank of the material Total draft in card (feed weight in g/m) / (sliver weight in g/m)
T.M. - Twist multiplier sqrt - square root (7.2 x SS x effy) / (TPI x Ne x 1000) Production in kgs / 8 hrs SS - spindle speed Spindle speed Hank delivered m/min x TPI x 39.37 spindle speed / ( tpi x 62.89)
Ring traveller speed in m/sec (spindle speed x ring dia in mm x 3.14) / (60 x 1000)
Yarn Conversions
Various yarn numbering systems and conversion formulas and tables for easy reference
Pound 0.0022
590.54/NeC 1653.5/NeL
dtex
den den/0.9
Nm
NeC
NeL
NeC 590.54/tex 5905.4/dtex 5314.9/den Nm*0.5905 NeL 1653.5/tex 16535/dtex 14882/den Nm*1.6535 NeC*2.8
System
Symbol
Value
Remarks
Direct Systems
tex deciTex kiloTex denier Linen (dry spun), Hemp, Jute Woollen (Aberdeen) Woollen (US grain) Tt dtex ktex Td Tj Ta 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 grams/kilometer grams/10 kilometer kilogram/kilometer grams/9'000 meters lb/14,400 yd (spindle) lb/14400 yd grains/20 yd
Indirect Systems
Asbestos (American)
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NaA
100 yd (cut)/lb
System Asbestos (English) Cotton (Bump Yarn) Cotton (English) Glass (UK & USA) Linen (Wet or Dry Spun) Metric Spun silk Typp Woollen (Alloa) Woollen (American Cut) Woollen (Americal run) Woollen (Dewsbury) Woollen (Galashiels) Woollen (Hawick) Woollen (Irish) Woollen (West of England) Woollen (Yorkshire) Woollen (Yorkshire) Worsted
Symbol NeA NB NeC NG NeL Nm Ns Nt Nal Nac Nar Nd Ng Nh Niw Nwe Ny Ny New 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
Remarks
840 yd (hank)/lb 100 yd/lb 300 yd (lea)/lb kilometers/kg 840 yd/lb 1000 yd/lb 11'520 yd (spindle)/24 lb 300 yd/lb 100 yd/oz yd/oz 300 yd (cut) 24 oz 300 yd (cut)/26 oz yd/0.25 oz 320 yd (snap)/lb 256 yd (skein)/lb yd/drum 560 yd (hank)/lb
Weaving Formulas
Commonly used weaving formulas and reference guides used for manufacturing woven fabrics
Count
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A number indicating the Mass per unit Length OR The length per unit mass of Yarn. Expression of the fineness of Yarn.
There are three Systems to Calculate Count
Total No. of hanks per one pound is the count of that yarn (Ne) i.e. if 10 hanks (10 x 840 yds. or 7680 meters) weighs one Pound or 0.454 Kg, then the Count of Yarn in indirect system 10s or 10Ne. This System widely used for staple fiber spun yarns like 100% Cotton, Viscose, Polyester fibers and their blends. Higher the yarn Count i.e Ne the yarn is finer
Count = Weight in grams per 9000 meters of yarn In this system the yarn numbering is called as Denier (D) Higher the yarn number i.e Denier the yarn is coarser.
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10 3. Universal System
Count = No of grams per 1000 meters or per km of yarn. In this system count is called as Tex Weight in Pounds Length in hanks (840 yards) Count = Commonly used other numbering systems
1. Nf - French count: - It is the No of 1000 meters length in kg of yarn 2. Nm - Metric system: - Count is the No of 1000 meters length per kg. of yarn. 3. Worsted system: - Count is the No. of 560 yards in one lbs. 4. Linen system: - It is the No. of leas of 300 yards per pound 5. Hemp, Jute, Flax: - Count is the No of 14,400 yards length per pound of yarn Conversion System
English (Ne) to Denier (D) - Denier = 5315 / Ne English (Ne) to Tex - Tex = 590.5 / Ne French (Nf) to English (Ne) - English (Ne) = Nf x 1.181
To give strength to the yarn, certain twist is given in the yarn. TPI vary according to end use of yarn. More twist for warp yarns, medium twist for weft yarns and less twist for hosiery yarns.
We calculate the twist as TPI or TPM. Twist is given in Z direction or S direction. If twist is given in CW direction it is Z twist. If it is given in CCW direction it is S twist.
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Textile calculations
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Single yarns are given Z twist and double yarns are given S twist. Twist relation for double yarn TPI = 0.7 x Single yarn TPI
Conversions Factor
This page helps in determining the Various convertion factors whether it is for textile use or for common use.
0.3937
39.37
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To
Multiply by
1.172
Gram force Pound Force Kilogram Force Tearing Strength Pound Force Tenacity Gram force per denier Bursting Pressure Pound force per sq.inch
Newton
4.45
88.3
Number per centimetre Gram per sq. metre Momme Ounce per sq. yard
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To Convert From Momme Twist Level Turns per inch Dimetre 1/1000 inch inch inch Cover Factor a. Woven cotton fabrics
To
Multiply by
39.37
0.957
b.Weft knitted worsted fabric 1.172 Twist factor (or multiplier) 9.57
Gram force Pound Force Kilogram Force Tearing Strength Pound Force Tenacity Gram force per denier Bursting Pressure Pound force per sq.inch
Newton
4.45
88.3
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Weaving Calculations
A guide to calculations relating to yarn and cloth and all processes of weaving.It includes reed count, reed width, Maximum EPI for particular count, weave density, crimp percentage, cloth cover factor etc
1.
2.
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1. 2.
5. 6. Warp Density
o o
= <350
o
Weave Density = 50+{(Warp Density - 100) * F.D - 100} /{(Weft Density 100)* F.D - 100}
Weave Design - K Plain1/1 = 1.00 Twill 1/2 = 0.87 Matt, Gabardine 2/2 = 0.82 Drill 1/3 = 0.77 Satin 1/4 = 0.69
Viscose Filament = 1.17 190 cm - 1.01 Polyester Filament = 1.22 220 cm - 1.02 250 cm - 1.08 330 cm - 1.15 360 cm 1.20
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To change the count and the number of thread / inch , keeping the same denseness of fabric To change the count without altering the denseness of the fabric EPI in Exp.cloth = (EPI in exp.Cloth2/EPI in given cloth) * count in given cloth To change the EPI without altering the denseness of the fabric
Warp weight in grams /metre = {(Total Ends * 1.0936 * 453.59 * crimp %)/(840 * count)} * wastage %
Weft weight in grams /metre ={(R.S. in inches * 453.59 * PPI)/(840 * count)} * wastage % * crimp %
Cloth length in metres with given weft weight=( weft weight in kgs * weft count * 1848 * 0.9144)/(PPI * R.S in inches)
Warp weight in grams /metre ={(Total Ends * count (Denier) )/9000} * wastage % * crimp %
Weft weight in grams /metre = {(R.S in inches * count(Denier)* PPI)/9000}* wastage % * crimp %
Allowance for count in bleached and Dyed fabric 1.Count becomes 4% 2. FinerDyed counts become max 6% Coarser Fabric Production Calculation
o o
Loom Speed = Motor RPM * (Motor Pully Diametre)/(Loom Pully Diametre) Loom Effeciency Percentage = (Actual Production/Calculated Production )* 100
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o
Moisture Regain Percentage = {(Yarn Weight - Dried Yarn Weight)/Dried Yarn weight} * 100
Moistue Content Percentage = {(Yarn Weight - Dried Yarn Weight)/Yarn weight} * 100 Type of Yarn Moisture Regain % Moisture Content % Cotton Jute Silk 8.50 13.75 11.00 7.83 12.10 9.91 9.91 14.50 3.78
Weft Weight in Kg = (R.S in centimetres * cloth length in metres * PPI )/(4301.14 * weft Count)
o o
Cloth weight in GSM = {EPI/Warp Cout)+(PPI/Weft count)}* 25.6 oz (ounce ) per sq. yard = GSM(Grams per sq. metre)/34
Material Measurement To calculate the length of any rolled fabrics, this formula gives the nearest accuracy. L = {0.0655(D-d)(D+d)}/t Where L = Length of material (Feet) t = Thickness of fabrics (inches)
Weight of yarn in a cloth The weight of cloth manufactured on looms depends upon the weight of yarns in thewarp and weft: ends/inch, picks/inch and the weight of size on the warp. Therefore,
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Cloth weight = Weight of warp + Weight of weft + Weight of size (All inlbs.) Where as Weight of warp in lbs. = (Total No. of Ends * Tape Length in Yards)/(840 * warp yarn count) Also
Top
Micrograms/ inch. The average weight of one inch length of fiber, expressed in micrograms (0.000001g), which is approximately equivalent to, Micronaire Readings defined by A.S.T.M Denier(Man-made fiber) Weight in grams per 9000 meters of fiber Micron(wool) Fineness expressed as fiber diameter in microns Conversions Denier = 0.354 * micronaire value Micronaire value = 2.824 * Denier HVI SF = 50.01 - (0.766 * 2.5%SL) - (50%SL *81.48) Where SL is in inches (0.001mm).
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Number of 840 yards per pound. French count (Nf) Number of 1000 meters per kilogram. worsted count Number of 560 yards per pound. Woolen cut Scllnen Lea (wet spun) Number of 300 yards per pound. (B) Direct System Tex count Weight in grams per 1000 meters Weight in pounds per 14,400 yards (Spyndle) Denier Weight in grams per 9000 metres COUNT CONVERSION Calculator 1. English count= French count * 1.1810 Metric count * 0.5905 Worsted count * 0.6667 Wollen cut 8c Linen Lea * 0.3571 5905 * Tex count 5315 * Denier 17.14 * jute count 2. Metric count= English count * 1.693 Top
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French Count * 2.0 Worsted count * 1.129 Woolen cut 8c linen lea * 0.6047 1000 * Tex count 9000 * Denier 29.03 * Jute count 4. Tex count 590.5 * English count 500 * French count 1000 * Metric count 885.8 * worsted count 1654 * Wolen cut and linen lea 0.1111 * denier 34.45 * jute count 5. Denier 5315 * English count 4500 * French count 9000 * Metric count 7972 * worsted count 14880 * woolen cut and linen lea 9 * tex 310 * jute count UNITS CONVERSATION Calculator One Pound = 16.00 ounces One Kilogram =1000.0 grams Top
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= = = One Ounce = =
7000 grains 453.59 grains 0.4536 kilogram 437.50 grains 28.350 grains One gram
=2.2046 pound =35.274 ounces =15432.0 grains =1000.0 milligram =0.03527 ounces =15.432 grains
One grain
= = =
One Milligram
=0.0154 grain
LINEAR MEASURES Calculator One yard = = = One Foot = = = = = 3.0 feet 36.0 inches 91.44 centimeters 0.9144 metre 0.3333 yards 12.0 inches 30.48 centimeters 0.3048 meter One millimeter One inch One meter = 100.0 centimeter = 3.281 feet = 39.37 inches =1.0936 yards =0.0334 inches =0.0278 yard =0.0833 foot =25.4 milimeters =2.54 centimeters =0.0254 meter. TEMPERATURE AND HUMIDITY IN COTTON TEXTILE MILLS Department Relative Humidity % Top Temperature C (F)
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Min. Mixing Room Blow Room Card Frame Ring Frame Winding 60 50 50 53 60
Max. 65 55 55 58 65
MIXING BLOWROOM 1. Cleaning efficiency percentage: (CE%) (Trash in mixing - Trash in Lap * 100) / Trash in mixing 2. Beating / inch Top
(Beater rpm * no. of arms) / (Feed roller rpm * (22/7) * Feed roll diameter in inch) EXAMPLE: (Beater speed = 800; Arms = 3; Feed roller rpm = 10; Feed roller diameter =2.5" Beats / inch = (800 * 30) / (10 * 3.14 * 2.5 ") = 30 Approx. 3. Standard pressure when spinning cotton and synthetic. Synthetic On rack heads On Calendar Roller Pulling Device 4. 300 Kg / cm2 3000Kg / cm2 130Kg / cm2 Cotton 300 Kg/cm2 2700 Kg /cm2 130 Kg / cm2
Expected standard efficiency % For Auto Doffing is 88 to 90% (Allowing for mixing change and cleaning)
5.
Lap Tolerance Limits = (Avg. Lap Wt. + - (2 * C.V %* Nominal Wt.))/ 100 Norms
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6. Norms of wrapping C.V Satisfactory values of % C.V. for wrapping in Preparatory & spinning Wrapping Blow room lap Card silver Finisher Drawing Sliver Inter Yarn up to 60 Ne Length in m 1 10 1 5 100 %C.V 1 2.0 0.85 1.5 1.2 1.5 3 3.5 2.2 3.3 U%
Yarn 60 Ne and above 100 Yarn up to 60 Ne (Strength CV) Yarn 60 Ne and above (Strength CV)
4.5
Top
(( Trash in Lap - Trash in Silver) / Trash in Lap)*100 2. Twist inserted / inch in sliver (rpm of can plate ) / Surface speed of calendar Roller
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SPEED FRAME 1 Coils per inch For Coarse Roving = T.P I * 10 For fine Roving =T.P I * 13 2 Thumb Rule for Layers / cm. =5.12 / sqrt (Roving hank)
YARN 1. Natural variation = CV % * 2 Let CV = 1.2 ; count = 30 (1.2 * 2 * 30 ) / 100 = 0.72 30 +- 0.72 Ne 2. Ring Yarns Single yarn strength in gram * 0.264 = lea strength of 120 yards in Lbs. Rotor Yarns (i) Cotton RKM = 0.00525 * CSP + 0.842 (ii) Cotton Blended RKM = 0.00537 * CSP + 0.943 (iii) Man Made RKM = 0.00561 * CSP + 1.079
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3. Coils / inch (yarn gap should be equal to half the diameter of yarn between coils) By Thumb Rule = 13.3 * sqrt (count) 4 General formula for tape Width Tape width = Face width of spindle Wharve - 4mm
consecutive
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Pre clearer Gauge at winding (carded yarn) 4.0 * yarn diameter Pre clearer Gauge at winding (combed yarn) 5 * yarn diameter
3.
Clearing Efficiency= 100 * (Total unwanted Faults Removed by Clearer) / ( Total Number of such faults Present in the yarn)
4. 5.
Knot Factor = ( Total number of Clearer cuts) / (Number of unwanted yarn faults removed) Normal Clearing Efficiency and knot Factor Type of Clearer Electronic Clearer CE 80-95 Knot Factor < 1.3
6.
DOUBLING 1. 2. 3. Total imperfection in Double yarn=0.170 * Total imperfection in single yarn Doubling yarn strength = Ring yarn strength * 2.5 Double yarn U% = Single yarn U% / sqrt ( No of yarns)
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4.