Part 3 - 28

Italian-depth Travel : Nature Wonders of the Mediterranean

4/22(Sun. ) 4 POMPEII NAPOLI

4 Star Hotel Terminus

Vesuvius
( )

( Naples, Napoli Nepolis ) 2800 Campania

17
San Januarius ( 448 )
( )(
)( 19 DDT )
(Caserta Pompeii, and Herculaneum )

Capodimonte

Palazzo Capodimonte Capodimonte

: (Castel Nuovo) 1282 , 1476

:

Galleria Umberto I()

risanamento (lit. "making healthy again")

1887~91 Emanuele Rocco


( Mafia Camorra )
(Piazza del Plebiscito ) Cumae Syracuse
Etruscan ( Tyrrhenian ( Partenope, Palepolis )
326 Samnite
62 79 Benevento, Santa Maria Capua Vetere, Pozzuoli
Justinian's Belisarius 1139/40 Ravenna 763 Stephen
Naples Ravenna 568~1139 Norman King Roger II of Sicily
1189 Swabian Hohenstaufen 1224
Frederick II 13 ( Anjou )( Charles I , 1266 ~)
Santa Chiara San Lorenzo Maggiore Donnaregina l'lncoronata 15
( Alfonso I of Aragon, 1422~) Castelnuovo1532-33 Pedro Alvarez de Toledo
18 1738
Philp V

( House of Bourbon)
1860 Ferdinard IV Ferdinand I, King of the Two Sicilies
Giuseppe Garibaldi
Carbonari
Freemasonry

 1831

1820

1814

1820
GuglielmoPepe, 1783-1855
Ferdinand I
Michele Amari, 1806-1889

9 Oscans 6 Etruscan
5 Samnite Campania Nuceria 343
298~290 publica

Samnitic League 400 Frentani .

91 P. Correlius Sulla 138 - 78 80
( Cornelia Sulla Pompeianorum)( Vesuvian )
62 79
8 24 (Vesuvius )
6m (
) Misenum
1709

1757 (Herculanum)
:
On March 23, 1748 the Neapolitan abbot Martorelli, aided by the military engineer Roque de Alcubierre, who believed he was on the track of
the ancient city of Stabiae, opened the first archeological site at Civita, at the crossroads of The Stabian Way and via di Nola. Coins, objects,
statues and frescoes were found and above all the first victim of the eruption emerged: a skeleton! At this stage sporadic and disconnected
explorations were made at various points of the area which led to the discovery of the site of the Amphitheatre and of the Herculaneum Gate
necropolis with the adjacent buildings.
The scant interest of the site led de Alcubierre to move the field of action back to Herculaneum. 1750 saw the lucky discovery of the Villa of the
Papyri with its magnificent library of 1800 papyri and the collection of bronze statues.
In 1754 digging started in Pompeii again and the Villa of Cicerone at the Herculaneum Gate, already identified in 1749, and the Praedia of Iulia
Felix north of the Amphitheatre were explored and then covered over again. Only in 1763, during excavations of the Herculaneum Gate
necropolis, was it possible to associate the Civita hill with the ancient city of Pompeii, thanks to the discovery of the inscription of Titus Suedius
Clemens, which made explicit reference to the Res Publica Pompeianorum.
From 1759 to 1799, under the regency of Ferdinand IV, but especially with the encouragement of his wife Maria Carolina, excavations gained
pace, thanks also to better planning on the part of the new director of archeological works Francesco La Vega.
Between 1764 and 1766 digging began on the Theatre area, the Triangular Forum and the Temple of Isis, which would be fully brought to light
in the first years of the next century. Sites were opened in the north-west part of the city too, where between 1760 and 1772 the insula
occidentalis, the House of the Surgeon and the Villa of Diomede, along via dei Sepolcri, were partially explored. The cellar of the latter revealed
18 victims of the eruption, along with a treasure-trove of gold and silver coins.
1798-1815
In 1798, after the defeat of Ferdinand IV, who wanted to march on Rome to rid the city of the French, the army of general Championnet

headed for Naples: the king escaped, the French conquered the city and proclaimed the Partenopean Republic. Championnet, a highly cultured
man who knew all about the discoveries at Pompeii, ordered excavations to be renewed in the southern quarter where a house, then named
after him, was discovered (Reg. VIII, Ins. 2, civ. 3).
The Partenopean Republic was short-lived and by June 1799 the French had abandoned Naples; but Ferdinand IV did not return to the city till
1802. In this space of time, political problems and a shortage of funds caused the dig to be suspended. Only with the arrival of Giuseppe
Bonaparte in 1806 was interest in Pompeii revived. The king increased the number of diggers (to about 500) under the direction of the minister
Cristoforo Saliceti. At this early stage, random surveys were made until the Curator of the Royal Portici Museum, Michele Arditi, was appointed
to work out a plan for expropriating private land in the archeological area of Pompeii. Arditi also tried to avoid isolated digging, concentrating
efforts in the area around the Herculaneum Gate where the House of Sallust was discovered. In 1808, Giuseppe Bonaparte became king of
Spain and left his post to Joachim Murat. Both he and, in particular, his wife Caroline, immediately put their enthusiasm for archeology into
practice. The queen moved to Portici from where she kept a personal eye on the dig, giving continual encouragement and funds to the workers,
who at this stage numbered 624! It was under the illuminated auspices of queen Caroline that the plan to identify and unearth the city walls
took shape; it was an idea that had already been aired by La Vega and Arditi, and aimed at discovering the actual extent of the city. In this
ten-year period, they dug per topographic area, in order to link excavations in the southern part of the city (the Theatre district) with the
Herculaneum Gate area to the north and the adjacent insulae, trying also to explore the central part of the Forum. The most important
discoveries included the Basilica and the House of Pansa (Insula Arriana).
1815-1860
With the return of Ferdinand of Bourbon to the throne of Naples, after the Congress of Vienna, excavations slowed down once again. His scant
interest in archeology caused a setback compared to the Murat period: expropriated land was actually put up for sale again and the workforce
was reduced to such an extent that by 1818 there were only 13 diggers left.
However, considerable work was dedicated to recovering the buildings of the Forum, the Theatre district and those around the Herculaneum
Gate. The following years, between 1820 and 1830, were particularly fortunate for Pompeii, not only because Francois I - who had succeeded
his father - was much more interested, but above all because the systematic exploration of via di Mercurio and of the insulae of regio VI, led to
the discovery of a series of architecturally interesting houses with rich pictorial decorations.
This decade culminated in the sensational discovery of the mosaic depicting Alexander the Great and the magnificent mosaics of the whole
House of the Faun (1830-32). Thanks to Francois I, excavations started up at Herculaneum again, after a standstill of about half a century.
His successors - Ferdinand II and Francois II, who only ruled for a year - did not show the same enthusiasm for Pompeii, except to turn it into a
local curiosity and pleasure spot, a sort of open-air museum where distinguished guests could be taken, such as Alexandre Dumas in 1835, Pio
IX in 1849 and Prince Maximilian in 1851. There were important discoveries in this period too: in 1845 most of regiones VI and VII along The
Abundance Way were brought to light, up to the eastern boundry of The Stabian Way, and work was started on unearthing via della Fortuna
and via di Nola and the adjacent insulae. Another important factor, which should not be underestimated, was the new railway line, completed
around 1840, which enabled people to reach Pompeii from Naples, entering the site at the Marine Gate.
Buildings excavated between 1815 and 1860 : Basilica (1813-19), Temple of Apollo (1816-20) , Forum (1820), Building of Eumachia (1820),
Macellum and north and east side of the Forum (1821-22), Temple of the Fortuna Augusta (1824), Forum Baths (1824) , House of the Tragic
Poet (1824) , Via di Mercurio (1825), House of the Large Fountain (1826), House of the Small Fortune (1827), Completion of excavations at the
Insula Arriana (House of Pansa) (1827), Completion of excavations at the Amphitheatre (1827), House of the Dioscuri (1828-29), House of
Meleager (1829-30), House of the Centaur (1829-30), House of the Faun (1830-32), House of the Figured Capitals (1832), House of the Painted
Capitals (1832-33), House of the Labyrinth (1834), House of Apollo (1835), House of Orpheus (1843-49), Walls at the Marine Gate (1850),
Stabian Baths (1854-59), House of the Citharist (1858),
1860-1910
After the unification of Italy, work started again with both improved excavation and restoration methods and with greater human and financial
resources. This radical change was also due to the fortunate choice of Giuseppe Fiorelli as director of archeological works and curator of the
Museum, a job he undertook with systematic discipline and to which he brought a totally new approach. He completed old work in regio VII by
fully excavating the insulae, unearthed the insulae flanking The Stabian Way and the buildings beside the Stabian and Marine Gates.
When Fiorelli was moved to the Kingdom's General Directorate for Antiquities and Fine Arts in 1875, the architect Michele Ruggero, who had
been his assistant since 1864, took over as director of works. This was without doubt one of the most active periods for Pompeii, both in terms
of new excavation methods and of the resulting discoveries. Once Fiorelli had understood the urbanistic layout of Pompeii, excavations
continued towards the north-eastern quarters of the city along via di Nola. One of the most complex and meritorious undertakings was the
excavation of the House of the Silver Wedding, with the reconstruction of the atrium and of the so-called 'Corinthian room', and of the terrace
houses at the southern end of the city. The most important discoveries include: the famous 'wax tablets' (accounting documents)
in the house of the banker L. Caecilius Jucundus; the statue of the Satyr with leather bottle and the painting of Bacchus and Vesuvius in the
House of the Centenary. Ruggero should also be remembered for having promoted the first deep samplings (in 1884, 1888, 1889) in the Doric
Temple and Forum areas, made by the Germans Duhn and Jacobi, and the first investigations to identify the ancient coastline (in 1878).
In the following period, the post of director was taken over by Giulio de Petra, famous above all for having deciphered the 'wax tablets'. From
the time he took office up to the end of the century work continued on clearing the northern parts of the city (regiones V and VI) which led to
the discovery of the House of the Vettii. Between 1897 and 1898 the stretch inside the city wall between towers X and IX was cleared. Special
attention was paid to the suburban area of Pompeii to the north of the Vesuvian Gate, to try to identify the Pagus Augustus Felix suburbanus (a
suburban settlement of the imperial age). The first excavations contracted to private individuals date back to this period, including, for example,
a dig commissioned to Gennaro Matrone along the Sarnus canal to try to find the port of Pompeii (in 1899-1901).
The beginning of the new century was marked by bitter controversy about awarding excavation contracts to private individuals and thereby
scattering artefacts and paintings far and wide, such as the case of the silver treasure found in the villa of Publius Fannius Sinistor at Boscoreale
(excavated from 1894 to 1900) which was sold to the banker Rothschild. De Petra was unjustly involved in the scandals and briefly replaced by
Ettore Pais.
In 1905 Antonio Sogliano took over as director of works, promoting an ambitious and articulated plan of action that he never managed to
complete. It involved exploring Pompeii underground in order to identify the pre-Roman ages (Mau-Dorpfeld samplings of 1902-6) and the
excavation of the necropolises outside the Nolan and Vesuvian Gates and the Samnite tombs in the Villa of the Mosaic Columns outside the
Herculaneum Gate. Buildings excavated between 1860 and 1910.
Discoveries made by Fiorelli : House of Siricus (1862), House of the Hanging Balcony (1862), Marine Gate (1863), Vicolo del Lupanare (1863),
House of M. Lucretius Stabia (1871) , Temple of Venus, House of Epidius Sabinus, House of the Citharist, House of Epidius Rufus,
Discoveries made by Ruggero: House of L. Caecilius Jucundus (1875-76), Central Baths (1877-78), House of the Centenary (1879-80) , House of

the Silver Wedding (1891-93) , Tombs along via Nolana (1886-87) , Tombs along The Stabian Way (1889)
Discoveries made between 1893 and 1910 : House of the Vettii (1894-95), House of M. Lucretius Fronto (1895), House of the Golden Cupids
(1895; 1903-5) , Stretch of wall between towers X and XI (1897-99), Temple of Venus Pompeiana (1897-98), Samplings at the Temple of Jupiter
(1897-98) , Samplings at the Temple of Apollo (1897-98) , Samplings outside the Vesuvian Gate (1897), Castellum aquae at the Vesuvian Gate
(1901-2) , House of the Ara Massima (1903) , House of the Gladiators (1899; 1905-6)
1910-1961
After several years of in-fighting among site managers and a stormy period in which an administrative commission presided over the Naples
directorate, Vittorio Spinazzola was appointed director of archeological works and he managed to bring his own innovative style to the job. He
decided to abandon excavations in the northern area to concentrate on the southern quarters of the city, areas only very partially explored up
until then. Spinazzola planned to unite the Amphitheatre with the centre of the city and to proceed with the dig according to the main routes
of the city layout. He was also convinced that inadequate excavation systems had destroyed the top floors of the buildings, the presence of
which was amply testified by the paintings discovered in Pompeii up until then. In fact, the excavation of The Abundance Way - the main artery
of the city - confirmed his hypothesis, bringing to light the fronts of buildings with more than one floor and revealing the productive and
commercial aspect of the town, which had so far only been considered for its rich residential properties.
The most interesting discoveries included Stephanus's Laundry and Asellina's Thermopolium. In September 1924, Amedeo Maiuri was
appointed director of archeological works; he stayed in the job for 37 years until 1961. Thanks both to his versatile activities and to the length
of his term in office, this period was one of the most active and innovative in the history of the excavations of Pompeii. Taking over where
Spinazzola had left off, he undertook excavations along The Abundance Way, completely and systematically clearing the insulae of regiones I
and II from west to east. The purpose was to join up with the area including the Amphitheatre and the Large Gymnasium which were finally
completely unearthed.
In the immediate suburbs of the city he completed the excavation of the Villa of the Mysteries (1929-30) which had already been started
between 1909 and 1910 by the owner of the fund named Item. On top of that, continuing one of Murat's most prestigious undertakings,
Maiuri finished isolating the whole circuit of Pompeii's boundary walls (1933-34). In particular, he solved the problem of removing the piles of
earth left by previous digs in order to make the whole archeological area usable. He unearthed the whole southern front with the facades of
the urban villas of regio VIII (1954) and, proceeding eastwards, the Nucerian Gate necropolis (1936). It should be emphasized that one of the
most important aspects of his archeological work was the systematic investigation of the soil of Pompeii by means of stratigraphic samplings,
the results of which he regularly published in the magazine "Notizie degli Scavi di Antichit". In this way he managed to give Pompeii not only
a reputation as a museum city but also the chronological sequence of the various stages of its history.
Buildings excavated between 1910 and 1961.
Buildings discovered by Spinazzola : House of Obellius Firmo (1911), House of Aulus Trebius Valente (1915), House of Cryptoporticus (1916),
Stephanus's Laundry (1916), Asellina's Thermpolium, House of Paquius Proculus, House of the Ceii, House of Pinarius Cerialis, House of the
Moralist, House of Octavius Quartio
Buildings discovered by Maiuri : House of di Fabius Amandio (1924-26), House of the Priest Amandio (1924-26), House of the Ephebe
(1924-26), House of the Theatrical Pictures (1927), House of Menander (1928-34), House of the Lovers (1928-34), House of the Four Styles
(1937-41), Large Gymnasium (1933-35), Villa of the Mysteries (1929-30), Imperial Villa (1943), Necropolis of the Nucerian Gate (1954)
1961-1997
The serious and increasing problems involved in the routine maintenance of the site and in preserving and restoring the buildings and art work
forced excavations to slow down after the great progress made by Amedeo Maiuri. Since 1961, when de Franciscis took over as director of
archeologicial works (1961), efforts have been concentrated on fully restoring and understanding each building investigated. Digs no longer
involve wide areas, but are limited to individual nuclei, and special attention is dedicated to preserving the contexts.
The most significant discoveries of the last few years include: the House of C. Julius Polybius, excavated between 1964 and 1977; the town
house of M. Fabius Rufus (VII, 16, 22), already explored by Maiuri in 1958 and finally brought to light in the 1970s; and then the Villa of Poppea
at Oplontis in 1964. A serious earthquake in 1980 further highlighted the problem of safeguarding and restoring the archeological sites affected
in the Vesuvian area.
This catastrophic event prompted the Engineering Corps of the Italian army to make a survey of the damage, and a campaign was launched to
heighten awareness both nationally and internationally. As a consequence, Pompeii was granted special funds (FIO-BEI) which enabled some
particular projects to go ahead, including: excavation and restoration work on regio II, insulae 1, 8, 9, and regio I, insula 20 along via Nocera,
which can now be enjoyed by the tourists; the excavation of the Suburban Baths. Since 1987, digging has proceeded in Pompeii in regio IX, in
particular in the House of the Chaste Lovers in The Abundance Way. Thanks again to the special funds (FIO-BEI), work started again in 1989 to
complete the job of excavating and restoring the numerous insulae of regiones I and II.

Sarno ( Pappamonte
) 66 km 5000 30 100
2

3 ( )
CAVE ( Canem )
1858
Giuseppe Fiorelli
2600
1600

5 79
80 (Herculanum) (Oplontis) (Boscoreale)
(Pompeii) (Stabies)

: Roman fresco with banquet scene from the Casa deiCastiAmanti (IX 12, 6-8) in Pompeii.

: Odysseus with the Sirens. Including Parthenope, a siren and mythological founder of Naples.

 : House of the Faun )

: 575~550
()

( House of Faun )

()

 Forum Tufa
() Capitoline Jupiter, Juno & Minerva ( Juipter, Mars and Quirinus)
Jupiter ( Zeus ), Juno( Hera, Matronalia )' Minerva
( Athena). 80 Sullan
Jupiter for the ritual and augural authority of the Flamen Dialis (high priest of Jupiter) and the chief priestly colleges, with Neptune (dominion
over the sea ) and Pluto (dominion over the Underworld ) which represents the priestly class Mars, with his warrior and agricultural functions,
represents the power of the king and young nobles to bring prosperity and victory through sympathetic magic with rituals like the October
Horse and the Lupercalia Quirinus as the deified form of Rome's founder Romulus and his derivation from co-viri ("men together")
representing the combined military and economic strength of the Roman people.

( )

 Caldarium of the Thermae

80 ( Forum Baths )
( caldarium )( tepidarium )(frigidarium )( apodyterium)

House of Pansa

House of Baker )

Acedes Genii Augsti

(Teatro Grande, Great theater)

Atellanae ( Oscan )
( Plautus, Terentius )

Andrew

( Nero )
(Teatro Grande, Great theater) Teatro Piccolo ,
basilica, Temple of Apollo, Temple of Jupiter( Tempio di Giove ), Edificio di Eumachia, House of Faun, Casa
del Fauno, , , ( StabianThermae), Bakery ( house of the Chaste Lovers ), Macellum,

( brothel, Lupanaro


House of the Vettii (Casa deivettii Aulus Vettius Conviva Aulus Vettius
Restitutus
(Lares)
),

House of the Vettii (Casa deivettii

Zeus

Jupiter

Kronus Saturn

 Hera

Juno

Hercules

2 3
Megara Mycenae Eurystheus
12 12

Medusa

(Hermels)

Atlas
Atlas Atlas

Athena

Mineva

fans

Apollon Apollo

Arthemis Diana

Ares

Mars

Aphrodite Venus

Eros

Cupid

Eos

Aurola

Hephaestus Vulcan
Hermes

Mercury

Hestia

Vista

8
6 10-14 30 10
10 10

Poseidon

Neputon

Demeter

Ceres

Hades

Pluto

:
( Castle Nuovo 1282 )

30

Vomero


Maggio deiMonumenti( May of Monuments ) ( Enrico Caruso )
Torna a Surriento O Solo Mio , Saint Lucia Mamma
Mia Amalfi Drive

mozzarella
60~90 (Pizza Margherita)? 1889
Raffaele Esposito

Meissen Capodimonte BasilioLiverino

4/23(Mon.) 5 CAPRI AMALFI SORRENTO

5 Grand Hotel La Sonrisa

 Stefy 8:35
10 km
2

(Garden of Eden)( Piazza Umberto)

(Via Vittorio Emanuele) Antonio Viva
Carthusia-Profumi Canali ( limoncello)
Giardini di Augusto , Villa Jovis

13: 50

Italian Stone Pines Stone Pine/Umbrella Pine

 Anacapri Santa Sofia

Santa Sofia 1510 Parish Church of Santa Maria di Costantinopoli
Sant'AntonioChiesa di San Carlo Madonna del Buon Consiglio

Chiesa di San Carlo Madonna del Buon Consiglio

Sant'Antonio

( Corals )
1%

Kowatari

limoncello

 La Pigna

Sirens ( Sorrento, Surrentum)

( Ulysses, Odyssey )

(Grotta Azzurra, Blue Grotto ) 1826 August Kopisch

limestone
( ) Tiberius
( )

Stefy
5

( Sorrento)

()

BMW Stefy

( Amalfi Drive ) 25 ( Costiera Amalfitana)

Sorrento Picentini hills Tyrrhenian Sea Salerno Sorrento 37 km
Heaven on Earth

 Amalfi, Atrani,
Reginna Maior, Reginna Minor Positano, Praiano, Certaria, Hercle Scala, Tramonti and Ravello and hamlets
of Conca and Furore Atrani, Positano, Ravello Humphrey Bogart
Beat the Devil Villa Rufolo Villa Cimbrone ( manor )
Amalfi ( Duchy of Amalfi) 839~1200
Ravello ( Lady Chattrleys lover)
1997

Positano


( )
BMW

Limoncello and Lemone

myrtle, lentisk, broom, euphorbia holm oak,
alder, beech and chestnutbutterwort, dwarf palms and endemic
carnivorous species.

( Paradise )

 Amalfi

Ravello


6
() 9
8 9
() 848
70,000 1000 ( 9661004 )

1073 1131 1135

1137 1262 Tavole Amalfitane 1570
1343

Arab-Sicilian

( Duomo di Amalfi, Saint Andrew's Cathedral )

Arab-Norman Romanesque 11 12
1891
Andrea dell'Asta
Manna Pietro Capuano
1203 1208 5 18

Michelangelo Naccherino ; Pietro Bernini

Amalfi Domenico Morelli The triumph of Christ

62 1891

Andrea dell'Asta Manna

( Sorrento, Surrentum)( Lacryma Christi )Taurasi Greco di Tufo

! Come Back to Sorrento
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IKngNZxgg18&feature=related Surrender
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=prUDuCi_1q0&feature=related :
Vir 'o mare quant bello, Ispiratantusentimento, Commetu a chi tiene a' mente, Cascetato 'o faiesunn.
Guardagua' chistuciardino; Siente, sie stisciurearance: Nu profumoaccussifinoDinto 'o core se ne va
E tu dice: "I parto, addio!" Talluntane da stu core Da sta terra de lammore Tiene 'o core 'e nun turn?
Ma nun me lass, Nun darmestuturmiento!Torna a Surriento, fammecamp!
Vir 'o mare de Surriento, chetesorotenenfunno: chi ha giratotutto 'o munno nun l'havistocomm'acc.
Guardaattuornosti Serene, categuardano 'ncantate, e tevonnotantubene...Tevulesserovas.
E tu dice: "I' parto, addio!" T'alluntane da stu core Da la terra de l'ammoreTiene 'o core 'e nun turn?
Ma nun me lass, Nun darmestuturmiento! Torna a Surriento, Fammecamp!


Look at the sea, how beautiful it is, it inspires so many emotions, like you do with the people you have at heart. You make them dream while they are still awake.
Look at this garden and the scent of these oranges, such a fine perfume, it goes straight into your heart, And you say: "I am leaving, goodbye." You go away from
my heart, away from this land of love, And you have the heart not to come back. But do not go away, do not give me this pain. Come back to Surriento, let me
live !
Look at the sea of Surriento, what a treasure it is! Even who has travelled all over the world, he has never seen a sea like this one. Look at these mermaids that
stare, amazed, at you, that love you so much. They would like to kiss you, And you say: "I am leaving, goodbye." You go away from my heart, away from the land
of love, And you have the heart not to come back. But please do not go away, do not give me this pain. Come back to Surriento, let me live!

8: 35 1 13: 50 Cescab hydrofoil, aliscafo 30

8:00 5 Grand Hotel La Sonrisa

Grand Hotel La Sonrisa

La Sonrisa

check-in