lisboa city

MY OWN LISBOA
INTERVIEW

lisboa city
TURISMO DE LISBOA Rua do Arsenal, n15 1100-038 Lisboa T: (+351) 21 031 27 00 F: (+351) 21 031 28 99 E: atl@atl-turismolisboa.pt W: www.visitlisboa.com

MAFALDA ARNAUTH
THE VOICE OF FADO
WALKS

IN THE SHADOW OF LISBOAS

SUNDIALS
DESIGN

EXPERIMENTADESIGN
BIENNIAL RETURNS TO LISBOA

ART

THEATRE

DANCE

MUSIC

NIGHT

ART

THEATRE

DANCE

MUSIC

NIGHT

HOTEL APARTMENTS
APARTHOTEL VIP EDEN P. dos Restauradores, 24 1250-187 LISBOA T: +351 213 216 600 F: +351 213 216 666 E: aparthoteleden@viphotels.com W: www.viphotes.com HOTEL PESTANA CASCAIS Av. Manuel Jlio Carvalho e Costa, 115 2754-518 CASCAIS T: +351 214 825 900 F: +351 214 825 977 E: pestana.cascais@pestana.com W: www.pestana.com REAL RESIDNCIA R. Ramalho Ortigo, 41 1070-228 LISBOA T: +351 213 822 900 F: +351 213 822 930 E: info@hoteisrela.com W: www.hoteisreal.com SOLPLAY HOTEL DE APARTAMENTOS R. Manuel da Silva Gago, 2 2795-132 LINDA-A-VELHA T: +351 210 066 000 F: +351 210 066 199 E: infohotel@solplay.pt W: www.solplay.pt/hotel

BED AND BREAKFASTS

ALBERGARIA CHILLE R. Antnio Pedro, 40 1000-039 LISBOA T: +351 213 549 171 F: +351 213 530 637 E: albergaria.chille@mail.telepac.pt W: www.albergariadochille.com ALBERGARIA RESIDENCIAL INSULANA R. da Assuno, 52 1100-044 LISBOA T: +351 213 427 625 F: +351 213 428 924 E: insulana@netc.pt W: www.insulanacjb.net ALBERGARIA S. LOURENO Est. Nacional 10/10-5 Porto Alto 2135-115 SAMORA CORREIA T: +351 263 654 447 F: +351 263 654 694 E: s.lourenco@mail.telepac.pt W: www.hotelslourenco.com HOSPEDARIA JARDIM DA AMADORA Lg. Major Humberto da Cruz, 3 2700-545 AMADORA T: +351 214 943 109 F: +351 214 947 907 E: jardim-amadora@mail.telepac.pt W: www.jardimdaamadora.com PENSO CASAL RIBEIRO R. Braancamp, 10 R/C Dto 1250-050 LISBOA T: +351 213 860 067

PENSO RESIDENCIAL TERMINUS Av. Almirante Gago Coutinho, 153 1700-029 LISBOA T: +351 218 491 106 F: +351 218 491 107 RESIDNCIA AVENIDA PARK Av. Sidnio Pais,6 1050-214 LISBOA T: +351 213 532 181 F: +351 213 532 185 E: info@avenidapark.com W: www.avenidapark.com RESIDNCIA MAR DOS AORES Av. Bernardim Ribeiro, 14 1150-071 LISBOA T: +351 213 577 085 F: +351 213 530 638 E: nori@netcabo.pt RESIDENCIAL AMERICANO R. 1 de Dezembro, 73 1200-358 LISBOA T: +351 213 474 976 F: +351 213 479 979 E: info@hotelamericano.com W: www.hotelamericano.com RESIDENCIAL ASTRIA R. Braamcamp, 10 1250-050 LISBOA T: +351 213 861 317 F: +351 213 860 491 E: hotellisboaastoria@evidenciagrupo.com W: www.evidenciahoteis.com RESIDENCIAL BORGES R. Garrett, 108 1200-205 LISBOA T: +351 213 461 951 F: +351 213 426 617 T: info@hotelborges.com W: www.hotelborges.com

RESIDENCIAL JOO XXI R. Gomes Freire, 179 1150-177 LISBOA T: +351 213 155 018 F: +351 213 533 580 E: admin@residencialjoaoxxi.com W: www.residencialjoaoxxi.com RESIDENCIAL LAR DO AREEIRO P. Francisco S Carneiro, 4 1000-159 LISBOA T: +351 218 493 150 F: +351 218 406 321 E: info@residencialardoareeiro.com W: www.residencialardoareeiro.com RESIDENCIAL LUENA R. Pascoal de Melo,9 1000-230 LISBOA T: +351 213 558 246 F: +351 213 543 456 E: rluena@mail.telepac.pt W: www.pensaoresidencialluena.pt SOLAR DOS MOUROS R. Milagre de Santo Antnio, 6 1100-351 LISBOA T: +351 218 854 940 F: +351 218 854 945 E: reservations@solardosmouros.pt W: www.solardosmouros.pt

INDEX

5
ESPLANADES
With its mild climate the whole year round, Lisboas esplanades are an open window onto the city.

9
INTERVIEW
Mafalda Arnauth was captured by Fado and, in just a few years, her extraordinary voice and the poetry she writes have made a decisive contribution to the new wave that is sweeping the so called Portuguese national song.

16
THE LUSITANO HORSE
Every week, a display of horses in Haute cole (classical dressage) takes place in the grandiose setting of the Queluz Palace and Gardens.

TOURIST VILLAGES
VILA BICUDA Vila Bicuda - Escritrio R. dos Faises 2750-689 CASCAIS T: +351 214 860 200 F: +351 214 860 229 E: info@vilabicuda.com W: www.vilabicuda.com

ACCOMMODATION
PENSO RESIDENCIAL CANAD Av. Defensores de Chaves,35 1000-111 LISBOA T: +351 213 513 480 F: +351 213 542 922 E: vitor@residencial-canada.com W: www.residencial-canada.com PENSO RESIDENCIAL CARAVELA R. Ferreira Lapa, 38 1150-159 LISBOA T: +351 213 539 011 F: +351 213 571 751 E: residencial_caravela@sapo.pt W: http://caravela.do.sapo.pt PENSO RESIDENCIAL ESTORIL LISBOA Av. Joo XXI, 6 - 2 1000-301 LISBOA T: +351 218 485 636 F: +351 218 451 066 E: pensao-estoril@netcabo.pt PENSO RESIDENCIAL GERS C. do Garcia,6 - 1 e 2 1150-168 LISBOA T: +351 218 810 497 F: +351 218 882 006 E: info@pensaogeres.com W: www.pensaogeres.com PENSO RESIDENCIAL PORTUENSE R. DAS Portas de Santo Anto, 149157 1150-267 LISBOA T: +351 213 464 197 F: +351 424 239 E: rportuense@mail.telepac.pt W: www.pensaoportuense.com PENSO RESIDENCIAL PRINCESA R. Gomes Freire, 130 1150-180 LISBOA T: +351 213 193 070 F: +351 213 193 079 E: info@residencial-princesa.pt W: www.residencial-princesa.pt RESIDENCIAL DELTA R. Ilha do Pico, 3 1000-169 LISBOA T: +351 213 521 300 F: +351 213 557 891 E: residencial.delta@mail.telepac.pt W: www.maisturismo.pt/delta RESIDENCIAL DOM JOO R. Jos Estevo, 43 1150-200 LISBOA T: +351 213 144 171 F: +351 213 524 569 RESIDENCIAL DOM SANCHO I Av. da Liberdade, 202 1250-147 LISBOA T: +351 213 513 160 F: +351 213 548 042 E: dsancho@iol.pt W: www.domsancho.com RESIDENCIAL DUAS NAES R. da Vitria, 41 1100-618 LISBOA T: +351 213 460 710 F: +351 213 470 206 E: info@duasnacoes.com W: www.duasnacoes.com RESIDENCIAL HORIZONTE Av. Antnio Augusto Aguiar, 42 1050-017 LISBOA T: +351 213 539 526 F: +351 213 538 474 E: residehorizonte@netcabo.pt W: www.hotelhorizonte.com RESIDENCIAL ITLIA Av. Visconde de Valmor, 67 1050-239 LISBOA T: +351 217 611 490 F: +351 217 611 499 E: reservas@residencial-italia.com W: www.residencial-italia.com

50 _ 51

MY OWN LISBOA
The magazine-guide for visitors to Lisboa N 1

OWNED BY
Turismo de Lisboa Rua do Arsenal, 15 - 1100-038 Lisboa T: +351 210 312 700; F: +351 210 312 899 E: atl@atl-turismolisboa.pt www.visitlisboa.com

DIRECTOR
Paula Oliveira

EDITOR
Edifcio Lisboa Oriente, Av. Infante D. Henrique, 333H, Esc. 49 - 1800-282 Lisboa T: +351 21 850 81 10; F: +351 21 853 04 26 E: lpmcom@lpmcom.pt

TURISMO DE HABITAO (MANOR HOUSES) AND TURISMO NO ESPAO RURAL (RUSTIC HOUSES)
CASA DA QUINTA NOVA DA CONCEIO R. Cidade de Rabat, 5 1500-158 LISBOA T: +351 217 780 091 F: +351 217 724 765 E: qtnovaconceicao@netcabo.pt QUINTA DE SANTO ANTNIO DE BOLONHA Av. Dom Eduardo Veiga de Arajo, Apartado 43 2625-055 PVOA DE SANTA IRIA T: +351 219 597 996 F: +351 219 530 376 E: qsabtr@hotmail.com W: www.portugalinsite.pt

DESIGN AND ARTWORK

Euro RSCG Design & Arquitectura

PRINTING
Sogapal 100.000 copies portuguese, spanish, english, french, german, italian - Registration n 231744/05

3* HOTELS
BEST WESTERN HOTEL DE TURISMO Lg. de Santo Antnio 2200-348 ABRANTES T: +351 241 361 261 F: +351 241 365 218 E: sales@hotelabrantes.pt W: www.hotelabrantes.pt BEST WESTERN HOTEL FLAMINGO R. Castilho,41 1250-068 LISBOA T: +351 213 841 200 F: +351 213 841 208 E: hotelflamingo@netcabo.pt W:www.bestwestern.com/pt/hotelflamingo BEST WESTERN PREMIER HOTEL EDUARDO VII Av. Fontes Pereira de Melo, 5 1069-114 LISBOA T: +351 213 568 822 F: +351 213 568 844 E: sales@hoteleduardovii.pt W: www.hoteleduardovii.pt COMFORT HOTEL PRNCIPE Av. Duque de vila, 201 1050-082 LISBOA T: +351 213 536 151 F: +351 213 534 314 E: comfortprincipe@esoterica.pt W: www.hotelprincipelisboa.com HOTEL A.S. LISBOA Av. Almirante Reis, 188 1000-055 LISBOA T: +351 218 429 360 F: +351 218 429 374 E: info@hotel-aslisboa.com W: www.hotel-aslisboa.com HOTEL AL FOZ Av. Dom Manuel I 2890-014 ALCOCHETE T: +351 212 341 179 F: +351 212 341 190 E: comercial@al-foz.pt W: www.al-foz.pt HOTEL ALMIRANTE Av. Almirante Reis, 68 1150-020 LISBOA T: +351 218 168 000 F:+351 218 168 001 E: sales@hotelalmirante.pt W: www.hotelalmirante.pt HOTEL ARRIBAS Av. Alfredo Coelho - Praia Grande 2705-329 COLARES T: +351 219 289 050 F: +351 219 292 420 E: hotel.arribas@mail.telepac.pt W: www.hotelarribas.com HOTEL BAA Av. Marginal 2754-509 CASCAIS T: +351 214 831 033 F: +351 214 831 095 E: reservas@hotelbaia.com W: www.hotelbaia.com HOTEL BOTNICO R. da Me D'gua,16/20 1250-156 LISBOA T: +351 213 420 392 F: +351 213 420 125 E: hotelbotanico@netcabo.pt W: www.hotelbotanico.net HOTEL CRISTAL R. de Leiria, 112/114 - Embra 2430-091 MARINHA GRANDE T: +351 244 574 530 F: +351 244 574531 E: cristalmarinha@hoteiscristal.pt W: www.hoteiscristal.pt HOTEL DA TORRE R. dos Jernimos, 8 1400-211 LISBOA T: +351 213 619 940 F: +351 213 619 946 E: hoteldatorre.belem@mail.telepac.pt W: www.maisturismo.pt/torre.htm

HOTEL DOM CARLOS LIBERTY R. Alexandre Herculano, 13 1150-005 LISBOA T: +351 213 173 570 F: +351 213 530 272 E: comercial@domcarloshoteis.com W: www.domcarloshoteis.com HOTEL DOM CARLOS PARK Av. Duque de Loul,121 1050-089 LISBOA T: +351 213 512 590 F: +351 213 520 728 E: direccao@domcarloshoteis.com W: www.domcarloshoteis.com HOTEL EXCELSIOR R. Rodrigues Samapio, 172 1150-282 LISBOA T: +351 213 537 151 F: +351 213 578 779 E: hotelexcelsior279@hotmail.com W: www.hotel-excelsior.pt HOTEL EXPRESS BY HOLIDAY INN LISBON-OEIRAS Est. de Pao de Arcos P. Srgio Vieira de Melo 2740-243 PORTO SALVO T: +351 214 232 040 F: +351 214 232 041 E: carmo.rei@nsl.pt W: www.hiexpress-lisbonoeiras.com HOTEL ISIDRO R. Prof. Augusto Gomes,3 2910-123 SETBAL T: +351 265 535 099 F: +351 265 535 118 E: hotelisidro@mail.com W: www.maisturismo.pt/hisidro HOTEL JORGE V R. Mouzinho da Silveira, 3 1250-165 LISBOA T: +351 213 562 525 F: +351 213 150 319 E: info@hoteljorgev.com W: www.hoteljorgev.com HOTEL LISBOA TEJO R. dos Condes de Monsanto, 2 1100-159 LISBOA T: +351 218 866 182 F: +351 218 865 163 E: hotellisboatejo@evidenciagrupo.com W: www.hotellisboatejo.com HOTEL LONDRES Av. Fausto de Figueiredo, 17 2765-412 ESTORIL T: +351 214 648 300 F: +351 214 672 633 E: portugal@hotelondres.com W: www.hotelondres.com HOTEL MAR R. Mouzinho de Albuquerque, 10 2450-901 NAZAR T: +351 262 561 122 F: +351 262 561 750 E: hotel.mare@mail.telepac.pt W: www.marehotel.com HOTEL MTROPOLE P. Dom Pedro IV, 30 1100-200 LISBOA T: +351 213 219 030 F: +351 213 469 166 E: metropole@almeidahotels.com W: www.almeidahotels.com HOTEL MIRAPARQUE Av. Sidnio Pais, 12 1050-214 LISBOA T: +351 213 524 286 F: +351 213 578 920 E: hotel@miraparque.com W: www.miraparque.com HOTEL NACIONAL R. Castilho, 34 1250-070 LISBOA T: +351 213 554 433 F: +351 213 561 122 E: hotelnacional@mail.telepac.pt W: www.hotel-nacional.com HOTEL NOVOTEL LISBOA Av. Jos Malhoa, Lt. 1642 1099-051 LISBOA T: +351 217 244 800 F: +351 217 244 801 E: ho784@accor-hotels.com W: www.accorhotels.com

HOTEL OLISSIPPO MARQUS DE S Av. Miguel Bombarda, 130 1050-167 LISBOA T: +351 217 911 014 F: +351 217 936 983 E: dmv@olissippohotels.com W: www.olissippohotels.com HOTEL ROMA Av. de Roma,33 1749-074 LISBOA T: +351 217 932 244 F: +351 217 932 981 E: info@hotelroma.pt W: www.hotelroma.pt HOTEL TRAVEL PARK LISBOA Av. Almirante Reis, 64 1150-020 LISBOA T: +351 218 102 100 F: +351 218 102 199 E: reservas@hoteltravelpark.com W: www.hoteltravelpark.com HOTEL VIP BERNA Av. Antnio Serpa, 13 1169-199 LISBOA T: +351 217 814 300 F: +351 217 936 278 E: hotelberna@viphotels.com W: www.viphotels.com/vip-berna.htm HOTEL VIP ZURIQUE R. Ivone Silva, 18 1050-124 LISBOA T: +351 217 814 000 F: +351 217 937 290 E: hotelzurique@viphotels.com W: www.viphotels.com/vip-zurique.htm SANA CAPITOL HOTEL R. Ea de Queirs, 24 1050-096 LISBOA T: +351 213 536 811 F: +351 213 526 165 E: sanacapitol@sanahotels.com W: www.sanahotels.com SANA ESTORIL HOTEL Av. Marginal,7034 2765-247 ESTORIL T: +351 214 670 322 F: +351 214 671 171 E: sanaestoril@sanahotels.com W: www.sanahotels.com SANA EXECUTIVE HOTEL Av. Conde de Valbom, 56 1050-069 LISBOA T: +351 217 951 157 F: +351 217 951 166 E: sanaexecutive@sanahotels.com W: www.sanahotels.com SANA RENO HOTEL Av. Duque de vila, 195/197 1050-082 LISBOA T: +351 213 135 000 F: +351 213 135 001 E: sanareno@sanahotels.com W: www.sanahotels.com SANA REX HOTEL R. Castilho, 169 1070-051 LISBOA T: +351 213 882 161 F: +351 213 887 581 E: sanarex@sanahotels.com W: www.sanahotels.com

HOTEL IBIS LISBOA - OEIRAS rea de Servio da Auto-Estrada A5 - Km 9,6 2780-826 OEIRAS T: +351 214 216 215 F: +351 214 217 039 E: h1634@accor-hotels.com W: www.ibishotel.com HOTEL D. AFONSO HENRIQUES R. Cristovo Falco,8 1900-172 LISBOA T: +351 218 146 574 F: +351 218 123 375 E: h.afonso.henriques@mail.telepac.pt HOTEL IBIS LISBOA LIBERDADE R. Barata Salgueiro, 53 1250-043 LISBOA T: +351 213 300 630 F: +351 213 300 631 E: h1337-gm@accor-hotels.com W: www.accorhotels.com HOTEL VIP R. Ferno Lopes, 25 1000-132 LISBOA T: +351 213 568 600 F: +351 213 158 773 E: hotelvip@viphotels.com W: www.viphotels.com HOTEL VIP PRAIA DO SOL R. dos Pescadores, 12 2825-386 COSTA DA CAPARICA T: +351 212 900 012 F: +351 212 902 541 E: hotelpraiadosol@viphotels.com W: www.viphotels.com HOTEL VIP MIRAMONTE Av. do Atlntico, 155 2705-287 SINTRA T: +351 219 288 200 F: +351 219 291 480 E: hotelmiramonte@viphotels.com W: www.viphotels.com HOTEL INTERNACIONAL R. da Bestesga, 3 1100-090 LISBOA T: +351 213 240 990 F: +351 213 240 999 E: geral@hotel-internacional.com W: www.hotel-internacional.com HOTEL SUIO ATLNTICO R. da Glria, 3 1250-114 LISBOA T: +351 213 461 713 F: +351 213 469 013 E: hotelsuioatlantico@grupofbarata.com W: www.grupofbarata.com

ESTALAGEM SENHORA DA GUIA Est. do Guincho 2750-642 CASCAIS T: +351 214 869 239 F: +351 214 869 227 E: senhora.da.guia@mail.telepac.pt W: www.senhoradaguia.com ESTALAGEM VALE MANSO Martinchel 2200-648 ABRANTES T: +351 241 840 000 F: +351 241 840 009 E: reservas@estalagemvalemanso.com W: www.estalagemvalemanso.com PALCIO BELMONTE Pteo Dom Fradique, 14 1100-624 LISBOA T: +351 218 816 600 F: +351 218 816 609 E: office@palaciobelmonte.com W: www.palaciobelmonte.com POUSADA DA BATALHA - MESTRE AFONSO DOMINGUES Pousada da Batalha - Mestre Afonso Domingues 2440-102 BATALHA T: +351 244 765 260 F: +351 244 765 260 E: recepcao.mestreafonso@pousadas.pt W: www.pousadas.pt POUSADA DE BIDOS - CASTELO Pousada de bidos - Castelo 2510-999 BIDOS T: +351 262 955 080 F: +351 262 959 148 E: recepcao.castelo@pousadas.pt W: www.pousadas.pt POUSADA DE OURM - CONDE DE OURM Pousada de Ourm - Conde de Ourm 2490-481 OURM T: +351 249 540 920 F: +351 249 540 920 E: recepcao.ourem@pousadas.pt W: www.pousadas.pt POUSADA DE PALMELA - CASTELO DE PALMELA Pousada de Palmela - Castelo de Palmela 2950-997 PALMELA T: +351 212 351 226 F: +351 212 330 440 E: recepcao.palmela@pousadas.pt W: www.pousadas.pt POUSADA DE QUELUZ - DONA MARIA I Pousada de Queluz - Dona Maria I Lg do Palcio 2745-191 QUELUZ T: +351 214 356 158 F: +351 214 356 189 E: recepcao.dmaria@pousadas.pt W: www.pousadas.pt POUSADA DE SETBAL - SO FILIPE Pousada de Setbal - So Filipe 2900-300 SETBAL T: +351 265 550 070 F: +351 265 539 240 E: recepcao.sfilipe@pousadas.pt W: www.pousadas.pt SOLAR DO CASTELO R. das Cozinhas, 2 (ao Castelo) 1100-181 LISBOA T: +351 218 870 909 F: +351 218 870 907 E: solar.castelo@heritage.pt W: www.heritage.pt VINHA DA QUINTA R. dos Malmequeres, 1- Janas 2710-268 SINTRA T: +351 219 292 247 F: +351 212 980 725 E: vinhadaquinta@iol.pt W: www.vinhadaquinta.com YORK HOUSE R. das Janelas Verdes, 32 1200-691 LISBOA T: +351 213 962 435 F: +351 213 972 793 E: manager@yorkhouselisboa.com W: www.yorkhouselisboa.com

2 _ 3

24
EXPERIMENTA DESIGN
The fourth edition of Experimentadesign takes place from the 14th September to the 10th October in Lisboa.

POUSADAS, INNS AND OTHER HOTELS

AS JANELAS VERDES R. das Janelas Verdes, 47 1200-690 LISBOA T: +351 213 968 143 F: +351 213 968 144 E: jverdes@heritage.pt W: www.heritage.pt ESTALAGEM DO FAROL - DESIGN HOTEL Av. Rei Humberto II de Itlia, 7 2750-465 CASCAIS T: +351 214 823 490 F: +351 214 841 447 E: faroldh@mail.telepac.pt W: www.cascais.org ESTALAGEM DO SADO R. Irene Lisboa, 1/3 2900-023 SETBAL T: +351 265 542 800 F: +351 265 542 828 E: pedro.costa@estalagemdosado.com W: www.estalagemdosado.com

28
SUNDIALS
Lisboa also has sundials in public places. We would like to challenge all those visiting the city to discover them. They are usually very beautiful pieces, which often go unnoticed. 22 | 23 26 27 27 31 04 | 08 | 30 20 | 21 12 | 13 14 | 15 19 FBRICA DOS PASTIS DE BELM THE TILE MUSEUM, UNIQUE IN THE WORLD COLOUR, MUSIC AND CEREMONY AT THE CHANGING OF THE GUARD OF THE PRESIDENT OF THE REPUBLIC MARCHAS POPULARES, ONE OF THE BIGGEST EUROPEAN FESTIVALS FROM SARDINES TO CHESTNUTS MODA LISBOA, A WORLD AT THE REACH OF A CLICK NEW HOTEL IN CHIADO A DIFFERENT WAY OF GETTING TO KNOW LISBOA, ON-BOARD A SIDE-CAR COMPANHIA NACIONAL DE BAILADO MY LISBOA, by Nuno Delgado, Helder Moutinho and Joo Lagos

2* HOTELS
HOTEL IBIS LISBOA - SALDANHA Av. Casal Ribeiro, 23 1000-090 LISBOA T: +351 213 191 690 F: +351 213 191 699 E: h2117@accor-hotels.com W: www.accorhotels.com HOTEL IBIS LISBOA - JOS MALHOA Av. Jos Malhoa,lt. H 1070-158 LISBOA T: +351 217 235 700 F: +351 217 235 701 E: h1668@accor-hotels.com W: www.accorhotels.com

My vision of Lisboa

MY LISBOA
By walking along the underpass, we can visit the Tower of Belm and the Monument to the Discoveries. We can look out over the horizon and feel like the first Portuguese who set out to challenge the world. Talking about challenges, how about a jog along the riverfront to the Santo So that you can really understand my choice for a days itinerary in the city of Lisboa, I suggest that the reader accompanies me over the course of a day, which would consist of my ideal programme for the city of seven hills. Amaro Docks? Heavenly, the sun is already hot, theres a light breeze in the air and the river is by our side. After half an hours exercise, we have to restore our energy. Have you tried Portuguese bacalhau (codfish)? You can now, in this area. So, after an excellent meal, I suggest a trip along the Avenida da Liberdade, passing by Rossio and stopping at Chiado. Lets go shopping! Now, already laden with shopping bags, Well start our day early and make the most of it by having a good breakfast in Belm. We just have to sample some hot pastis de Belm, fresh from the oven. While we are enjoying the cream pastry loaded with cinnamon and sugar, we can enjoy a view of the Jernimos Monastery and the beautiful gardens. were on our way to the Lisboa Regency Chiado Hotel for coffee. What a wonderful view! A pleasant conversation and the time just flies by. I check my watch, were already late! Lisboa 30th May, 2005 I have reserved a table at a Cape Verdean restaurant. Why? Because Cape Verde is also a part of Lisboa. Were already comfortably seated when they bring us the pastis de milho, (corn fritters), while we wait for the very popular cachupa, a typical Cape Verdean dish. This is delicious, it could have been made by my mother. The musicians are busy playing a song by Cesria, how wonderful! Weve finished our dessert, asked for the bill and No, sorry, Im the one who invited you. We say our goodbyes and leave. Well, my friend its been a long day, and for me thats enough. But why dont you call by the Avenida 24 de Julho, and there youll find something of everything. At night time, Lisboa never stops

ACCOMMODATION

48 _ 49

NUNO DELGADO
JUDO ATHLETE, BRONZE MEDALLIST IN THE SYDNEY OLYMPIC GAMES, 2000

First, I must confess that I am a person who has travelled a great deal. Through judo, I have already been around the world. But Lisboa has a special place in my heart and you are about to see why.

5* HOTELS
CORINTHIA ALFA HOTEL Av. Columbano Bordalo Pinheiro 1099-031 LISBOA T: +351 217 236 300 F: +351 217 236 364 E: alfa@corinthia.pt W. www.corinthiahotels.com HOTEL ALBATROZ R. Frederico Arouca, 100 2750-353 CASCAIS T: +351 214 847 380 F: +351 214 844 827 HOTEL ALTIS R. Castilho, 11 1269-072 LISBOA T: +351 213 106 000 F: +351 213 106 262 E: reservations@hotel-altis.pt W. www.hotel-altis.pt HOTEL AVENIDA PALACE R. 1 de Dezembro, 123 1200-359 LISBOA T: +351 213 218 100 F: +351 213 422 884 E: reservas@hotel-avenida-palace.pt W: www.hotel-avenida-palace.pt HOTEL BAIRRO ALTO P. Lus de Cames, 8 1200-243 LISBOA T: +351 213 408 288 F: +351 213 408 299 E: mariajoao.rocha@bairroaltohotel.com W: www.bairroaltohotel.com HOTEL CASCAIS MIRAGEM Av. Marginal, 8554 2754-536 CASCAIS T: +351 210 060 600 F: +351 210 060 626 E: geral@cascaismirage.pt W: www.cascaismirage.com HOTEL DOM PEDRO LISBOA Av. Eng. Duarte Pacheco, 24 1070-109 LISBOA T: +351 213 896 600 F: +351 213 896 601 E: dp.lisboa@dompedro.com W: www.dompedro.com HOTEL PALCIO R. do Parque 2769-504 ESTORIL T: +351 214 648 000 F: +351 214 684 867 E: info@hotelestorilpalacio.pt W: www.hotel-estoril-palacio.pt HOTEL REAL PALCIO R. Toms Ribeiro, 115 1050-228 LISBOA T: +351 213 199 500 F: +351 213 199 502 E: info@hoteisreal.com W: www.hoteisreal.com HOTEL TIVOLI LISBOA Av. da Liberdade, 185 1269-050 LISBOA T: +351 213 198 900 F: +351 213 198 950 E: htlisboa@tivolihotels.com W: www.tivolihotels.com HOTEL TIVOLI PALCIO DE SETEAIS Av. Barbosa du Bocage, 8 - Seteais 2710-517 SINTRA T: +351 219 233 200 F: +351 219 234 277 E: htpseteais@tivolihotels.com W: www.tivolihotels.com LAPA PALACE R. Pau de Bandeira, 4 1249-021 LISBOA T: +351 213 949 494 F: +351 213 950 665 E: info@lapa-palace.com W: www.lapa-palace.com LE MERIDIEN PARK ATLANTIC LISBOA R. Castilho, 149 1099-034 LISBOA T: +351 213 818 700 F: +351 213 890 500 E: reservas.lisboa@lemeridien.pt W: www.lemeridien.pt

PENHA LONGA HOTEL & GOLF RESORT Est. da Lagoa Azul - Linh 2715-511 SINTRA T: +351 219 249 011 F: +351 219 249 007 E: resort@penhalonga.com W: www.penhalonga.com PESTANA PALACE HOTEL R. Jau, 54 1300-314 LISBOA T: +351 213 615 600 F: +351 213 615 625 E: sales.cph@pestana.com W: www.pestana.com PRAIA D'EL REY MARRIOTT GOLF & BEACH RESORT Av. Dona Ins de Castro, 1 - Vale das Janelas, Amoreira 2510-451 BIDOS T: +351 262 905 100 F: +351 262 905 101 E: info.pdr@marriott-pdr.com.pt W: www.marriott.com/lisdr RITZ FOUR SEASONS HOTEL LISBOA R. Rodrigo da Fonseca, 88 1099-039 LISBOA T: +351 213 811 400 F: +351 213 831 783 E: reservations.lis@fourseasons.com W: www.fourseasons.com SHERATON LISBOA HOTEL & TOWERS R. Latino Coelho, 1 1069-025 LISBOA T: +351 213 120 000 F: +351 213 547 164 E: sheraton.lisboa@sheraton.com W: www.sheraton.com/lisboa

HOTEL AVIZ R. Duque de Palmela, 32 1250-098 LISBOA T: +351 210 402 000 F: +351 210 402 199 E: geral@hotelaviz.pt W: www.hotelaviz.com HOTEL BRITNIA Tv. do Salitre, 7 1269-066 LISBOA T: +351 213 155 016 F: +351 213 155 021 E: britania.hotel@heritage.pt W: www.heritage.pt HOTEL CIDADELA Av. 25 de Abril 2745-517 CASCAIS T: +351 214 827 600 F: +351 214 867 226 E: hotelcidadela@hotelcidadela.com HOTEL D. MANUEL I Av. Duque de vila, 189 1050-082 LISBOA T: +351 213 593 000 F: +351 213 576 985 E: dmanuel@hoteldmanuel.pt W: www.hoteldmanuel.pt HOTEL DO CAMPO GRANDE Campo Grande, 7 1700-087 LISBOA T: +351 217 957 555 F: +351 217 974 761 E: rservas@hoteldocampogrande.com W: www.hoteldocampogrande.com HOTEL DO MAR R. General Humberto Delgado, 10 2970-628 SESIMBRA T: +351 212 288 300 F: +351 212 233 888 E: hoteldomar@hoteldomar.pt W: www.hoteldomar.pt HOTEL ESTORIL EDEN Av. de Sabia, 209 2769-502 ESTORIL T: +351 214 667 600 F: +351 214 667 601 E: geral@hotelestorileden.pt W: www.hotel-estoril-eden.pt HOTEL FNIX LISBOA P. Marqus de Pombal, 8 1269-133 LISBOA T: +351 213 862 121 F: +351 213 860 131 E: fenixlisboa@fenixlisboa.com W: www.fenixlisboa.com HOTEL HERITAGE AV. LIBERDADE Av. Liberdade, 28 1250-145 LISBOA T: +351 213 404 040 F:+351 213 404 044 E: avliberdade@heritage.pt W: www.heritage.pt (Abre em 2006) HOTEL LISBOA PLAZA Tv. do Salitre, 7 1269-066 LISBOA T: +351 213 218 218 F: +351 213 471 630 E: plaza.hotels@heritage.pt W: www.heritage.pt HOTEL LUTCIA Av. Frei Miguel Contreiras, 52 1749-086 LISBOA T: +351 218 411 300 F: +351 218 411 311 E: lutecia@mail.telepac.pt W: www.hotel-lutecia.pt HOTEL MARQUS DE POMBAL Av. da Liberdade, 243 1250-143 LISBOA T: +351 213 197 900 F: +351 213197 990 E: info@hotel-marquesdepombal.pt W: www.hotel-marquesdepombal.pt HOTEL MERCURE LISBOA Av. Jos Malhoa, Lt. 1684 1099-051 LISBOA T: +351 217 208 000 F: +351 217 208 089 E: h3346@accor-hotels.com W: www.mercure.com

HOTEL MUNDIAL R. Dom Duarte, 4 1100-198 LISBOA T: +351 218 842 000 F: +351 218 842 110 E: comercial@hotel-mundial.pt W: www.hotel-mundial.pt HOTEL NH LIBERDADE Av. da Liberdade, 180 B 1250-146 LISBOA T: +351 213 514 060 F: +351 213 143 674 E: nhliberdade@nh-hotels.com W: www.nh-hotels.com HOTEL OLISSIPPO CASTELO R. Costa do Castelo, 126 1100-179 LISBOA T: +351 218 820 190 F: +351 218 820 194 E: dmv@olissippohotels.com W: www.olissippohotels.com HOTEL PRAIA MAR R. do Guru, 16 2775-581 CARCAVELOS T: +351 214 585 100 F: +351 214 573 130 E: praiamar@almeidahotels.com W: www.almeidahotels.com HOTEL QUINTA DA MARINHA & VILLAS - GOLF RESORT Quinta da Marinha 2750-715 CASCAIS T: +351 214 860 100 F: +351 214 869 488 E: sales@quintadamarinha.com W: www.quintadamarinha.com HOTEL REAL OEIRAS R. lvaro Rodrigues de Azevedo, 5 2770-197 PAO DE ARCOS T: +351 214 469 900 F: +351 214 469 901 E: realoeiras@hoteisreal.com W: www.hoteisreal.com HOTEL SOFITEL LISBOA Av. da Liberdade, 127 1269-038 LISBOA T:+351 213 228 310 E: h1319@accor-hotels.com W: www.sofitel.com HOTEL TIVOLI JARDIM R. Jlio Csar Mcahado, 7/9 1250-135 LISBOA T: +351 213 591 000 F: +351 213 591 245 E: htjardim@tivolihotels.com W: www.tivolihotels.com HOTEL TIVOLI SINTRA P. da Repblica 2710-616 SINTRA T: +351 219 237 200 F: +351 219 237 245 E: htsintra@tivolihotels.com W: www.tivolihotels.com HOTEL TIVOLI TEJO Av. Dom Joo II 1990-083 LISBOA T: +351 218 915 100 F: +351 218 915 345 E: httejo@tivolihotels.com W: www.tivolihotels.com HOTEL TRYP ORIENTE Av. Dom Joo II, Lt 1.16.02 B 1990-083 LISBOA T: +351 218 930 000 F: +351 218 930 099 E: tryp.oriente@solmeliaportugal.com W: www.tryporiente.solmelia.com HOTEL VILA GAL PERA Tv. do Conde da Ponte 1300-141 LISBOA T: +351 213 605 400 F: +351 213 605 450 E: opera@vilagale.pt W: www.vilagale.pt HOTEL VILLA RICA Av. 5 de Outubro, 301/319 1600-035 LISBOA T: +351 210 043 000 F: +351 210 043 499 E: villarica@fibeira.pt W: www.hotelvillarica.com

HOTEL VIP DIPLOMTICO R. Castilho, 74 1250-071 LISBOA T: +351 213 839 020 F: +351 213 862 155 E: hoteldiplomatico@viphotels.com W: www.viphotels.com HOTEL ZENIT LISBOA Av. 5 de Outubro, 11 1050-047 LISBOA T: +351 213 102 200 F: +351 213 102 209 E: dirlisboa@zenithoteles.com W: www.zenithoteles.com LISBOA MARRIOTT HOTEL Av. dos Combatentes, 45 1600-042 LISBOA T: +351 217 235 400 F: +351 217 264 281 E: lisbon@marriotthotels.com W: www.marriott.com/lispt LISBOA REGENCY CHIADO R. Nova do Almada, 114 1200-290 LISBOA T: +351 213 256 100 F: +351 213 256 161 E: regencychiado@madeiraregency.pt W: www.regency-hotels-resorts.com RADISSON SAS HOTEL LISBOA Av. Marechal Craveiro Lopes, 390 1749-009 LISBOA T: +351 210 045 000 F: +351 210 045 001 E: rad@grupo-continental.com W: www.radisson.com/lisbonpt REAL PARQUE HOTEL Av. Lus Bvar, 67 1069-146 LISBOA T: +351 213 199 000 F: +351 213 570 750 E: info@hoteisreal.com W: www.hoteisreal.com SANA LISBOA HOTEL Av. Fontes Pereira de Melo, 8 1069-310 LISBOA T: +351 210 064 300 F: +351 210 064 301 E: info@sanahotels.com W: www.sanahotels.com SANA MALHOA HOTEL Av. Jos Malhoa, 8 1099-089 LISBOA T: +351 210 061 800 F: +351 210 061 801 E: sanamalhoa@sanahotels.com W: www.sanahotels.com SANA METROPOLITAN HOTEL R. Soeiro Pereira Gomes, Parcela 2 1600-198 LISBOA T: +351 217 982 500 F: +351 217 950 864 E: sanametropolitan@sanahotels.com W: www.sanahotels.com SANA SESIMBRA HOTEL Av. 25 de Abril 2970-634 SESIMBRA T: +351 212 289 000 F: +351 212 289 001 E: sanasesimbra@sanahotels.com W: www.sanahotels.com SUITES DO MARQUS Av. Duque de Loul, 45 1050-086 LISBOA T: +351 213 510 480 F: +351 213 531 865 E: lisboa.hotel@suitesmarques.com W: www.hotelsuitesdomarques.com TURIM EUROPA HOTEL R. So Sebastio da Pedreira,17/19 1050 LISBOA T: +351 213 139 410 F: +351 213 139 419 E: geral@hotelturim.com W: www.turimhotels.com TURIM LISBOA HOTEL R. Filipe Folque, 20 1050-113 LISBOA T: +351 213 139 410 F: +351 213 139 419 E: geral@hotelturim.com W: www.turimhotels.com

LISBOAS

ESPLANADES
4 _ 5

4* HOTELS
ALTIS PARK HOTEL Av. Eng. Arantes e Oliveira, 9 1900-221 LISBOA T: +351 218 434 200 F: +351 218 460 838 E: reservations@altisparkhotel.com W: www.altishotels.com BEST WESTERN HOTEL FLRIDA R. Duque de Palmela, 34 1250-098 LISBOA T:+351 213 576 145 F: +351 213 543 584 E: sales@hotel-florida.pt W: www.hotel-florida.pt HOLIDAY INN LISBOA Av. Antnio Jos de Almeida, 28 A 1000-044 LISBOA T: +351 210 044 000 F: +351 217 936 672 E: hil@grupo-continental.com W: www.holiday-inn.com/lisbonprt HOLIDAY INN CONTINENTAL R. Laura Alves, 9 1069-169 LISBOA T: +351 210 046 000 F: +351 217 973 669 E: hic@grupo-continental.com W: www.grupo-continental.com HOTEL AC LISBOA Lg. do Andaluz, 13 B 1050-121 LISBOA T: +351 210 050 930 F: +351 210 050 931 E: aclisboa@ac-hotels.com W: www.ac-hotels.com HOTEL AORES LISBOA Av. Columbano Bordalo Pinheiro, 1 1070-060 LISBOA T: +351 217 222 925 F: +351 217 222 929 E: comercialhoteis@bensaude.pt W: www.www.bensaude.pt HOTEL ATLNTICO Av. Marginal, 8023 A 2765-249 ESTORIL T: +351 214 680 270 F: +351 214 683 619 E: hotel.atlantico@mail.telepac.pt

TIME CAN WAIT

With its mild climate the whole year round, Lisboas esplanades are an open window onto the city.

Rising up over the Tagus Estuary, one of the largest in Europe, Lisboa stands to be observed its light, the colours of its buildings, its dark red rooftops, like the scales of some giant fish slumbering on the shore of the rivers edge. It is an unforgettable picture for those first visiting it. Moreover, with its famous seven hills, like Rome, there are many high points in the city from

which one can admire the panorama. And what better plan could there be, after the climbs and descents on foot through the narrow streets of the old neighbourhoods, than to watch a sunset with the Tagus as the backdrop, whilst enjoying a coffee or a fresh drink? With its mild climate the whole year round, Lisboas esplanades are an open window onto the city.

LEISURE
Yet another vantage point is the esplanade above the Eduardo VII Park, set alongside a small lake, or the second floor of the top-class restaurant, Eleven, So here are some suggestions for the best viewing points: At Chiado, if you go up to the last floor of the hotel bearing the same name, next to the Grandes Armazns, there is a cosy terrace where you can have breakfast, or make time before dinner, whilst admiring a view of the houses descending down to the river and rising up to the So Jorge Castle. Next, is the Largo das Portas do Sol, perhaps the most famous esplanade for foreign visitors, and one that is mentioned in all the guidebooks as an absolute must. Although the terrace is quite small, the actual view opens out onto practically the whole of the old city, spanning east to west. overlooking the greenery of one of citys largest gardens. In the distance is the Tagus, always present. Close by, at the Estufa Fria, (Cool House), there is a small covered esplanade, surrounded by exotic plants. A relatively unknown, shady spot, ideal for a small break to catch up on your guidebook, and for some silence. Then, there are the esplanades that are more suited for observing the to-and-fro of people, their conversations, gestures, faces, clothes You can begin at Martinho da Arcada, at the Terreiro do Pao. This was a favourite haunt of the poet and writer, Fernando Pessoa, who spent many of his late afternoons here, after leaving work.

46 _ 47

LISBOAS

ESPLANADES
HANDICRAFTS AND SOUVENIRS
ALBERTO SANTOS P. dos Restauradores, 64 1250-188 LISBOA T: +351 213 477 875 F: +351 213 420 236 ARTESANATO DO TEJO R. do Arsenal, 25 1100-038 LISBOA T: +351 210 312 820 F: +351 210 312 819 E: info@atlx.pt W: www.atlx.pt BAZAR MUMI Lg. Santo Antnio da S, 6/8 1100-499 LISBOA T: +351 218 870 089 E: bazar_mumi@hotmail.com ELCTRICO DE LISBOA Apartado 14334 1064-004 LISBOA T: +351 217 540 093 F: +351 217 540 123 E: electricodelisboa@hotmail.com LINHO BORDADO R. Cidade de Horta, 36 A 1000 LISBOA T: +351 962 827 365 F: +351 218 476 941 LOJA DOS DESCOBRIMENTOS R. dos Bacalhoeiros, 12 A 1100-070 LISBOA T: +351 218 865 563 E: loja-dos-descobrimentos@ciberguia.pt MATEUS SHOP R. Castilho, 61 B 1250-068 LISBOA T: +351 213 863 830 F: +351 213 860 879 E: info@mateus-shop.com W: www.mateus-shop.com SANTOS OFCIOS R. da Madalena, 87 1100-319 LISBOA T: +351 218 872 031 E: santosoficios@santosoficios-artesanato.pt W: www.santosoficios-artesanato.pt SOPA DE XILOFONE R. da Bica Duarte Belo, 12 A 1250-052 LISBOA T: +351 938 647 888 F: +351 219 759 109 E: silviabruno-barradas@yahoo.com W: www.sopadexilofone.com CHAMPAGNE CLUB Cais da Rocha do Conde de bidos - Armazm 115 1350-352 LISBOA T: +351 213 961 886 F: +351 213 961 923 W: www.champagne-club.com DANARTE - DANAS COM SABORES Complexo Desportivo Municipal de Sintra Lourel 2710 SINTRA T: +351 219 246 178 F: +351 219 246 180 E: dancarte@dancarte.com W: www.dancarte.com HENNESSY'S IRISH PUB R. Cais do Sodr, 32/38 1200-450 LISBOA T: +351 213 431 064 F: +351 213 431 064 E: info@hennessys.com.pt W: www.hennessys.com.pt KAIS - RESTAURANTE BAR R. da Cintura do Porto de Lisboa - Cais da Viscondessa 1200-109 LISBOA T: +351 213 932 930 F: +351 213 932 939 E: comercial@kais.co.pt W: www.kais-k.com NUTS CLUB Av. Rei Humberto II de Itlia, 7 2750-461 CASCAIS T: +351 214 844 109 F: +351 214 836 461 E: coconuts@mail.telepac.pt W: www.nuts-club.com OGILIN'S IRISH PUB R. dos Remolares, 8 1200-371 LISBOA T: +351 213 421 899 F: +351 219 282 949 ONDAJAZZ Arco de Jesus, 7 - Alfama 1100-033 LISBOA T: +351 218 873 064 F: +351 214 572 248 E: contact@ondajazz.com W: www.ondajazz.com PASSERELLE Av. scar Monteiro Torres, 8 A 1000-219 LISBOA T: +351 217 932 944 F: +351 213 562 349 E: grupo.vt@mail.telepac.pt W: www.passerelle.pt PIANO-BAR COPU'S Solplay Hotel de Apartamentos R. Manuel da Silva Gaio, 2 2795-132 LINDA-A-VELHA T: +351 210 066 000 F: +351 210 066 199 W: www.solplay.pt/hotel THE FROG AT EXPO R. da Pimenta, 17/21 1990-254 LISBOA T: +351 218 952 898 F: +351 218 952 899 E: frog.lisboa@frogpubs.com W: www.frogpubs.com CASA DOS SABORES DE PORTUGAL Aeroporto de Lisboa Partidas, Lj. 11/12 T: +351 218 494 913 F: +351 213 575 427 E: casadossabores@sapo.pt COISAS DO ARCO DO VINHO Centro Cultural de Belm R. Bartolomeu Dias, Lojas 7 e 8 1400-026 LISBOA T: 213 642 031 F: 213 642 031 E: arcodovinho@net.sapo.pt W: www.coisasdoarcodovinho.pt COISAS DO VINHO - ADEGA REGIONAL DE COLARES Alam. Corornel Linhares de Lima, 24/32 2705-135 COLARES T: +351 219 282 733 F: +351 219 282 735 E: coisasdovinho@coisasdovinho.pt W: www.coisasdovinho.pt COMPANHIA AGRCOLA DO SANGUINHAL ENOTURISMO Quinta das Cerejeiras - Apdo. 5 2544-909 BOMBARRAL T: +351 262 609 190 F: +351 262 609 191 E: info@vinhos-sanguinhal.pt W: www.vinhos-sanguinhal.pt GARRAFEIRA NACIONAL R. de Santa Justa, 18 1100-485 LISBOA T: +351 218 879 080 F: +351 218 877 526 E: info@garrafeiranacional.com W: www.garrafeiranacional.com MAGNLIA CAFF FINE FOOD Campo Pequeno, 2 A 1000-078 LISBOA T: +351 217 959 852 F: +351 217 931 152 E: geral@magnoliacaffe.com W: www.magnoliacaffe.com NAPOLEO WINE SHOPS R. dos Fanqueiros, 70 1100-231 LISBOA T: +351 218 872 042 F: +351 218 861 109 E: wine@napoleao.co.pt W: www.napoleao.co.pt NOVA AOREANA R.da Prata, 116/118 1100-420 LISBOA T: +351 218 879 870 PARQUE EXPO 98 Av. Dom Joo II. Lt. 1.07.2.1 - Edif. Administrativo 1998-014 LISBOA T: +351 218 919 898 F: +351 218 919 789 E: anaoliveira@parquedasnacoes.pt W: www.parqueexpo.pt SOLPLAY FAMILY HEALTH CLUB Av. 25 de Abril, 33 2799-506 LINDA-A-VELHA T: +351 214 146 000 F: +351 214 144 449 E: info@solplay.pt W: www.solplay.pt

FADO HOUSES
A SEVERA - RESTAURANTE TPICO R. das Gveas, 51/61 1200-206 LISBOA T: +351 213 428 314 F: +351 213 464 006 E: info@asevera.com W: www.asevera.com ADEGA MACHADO R. do Norte, 91 1200-284 LISBOA T: +351 213 224 640 F: +351 213 467 507 ADEGA MESQUITA R. do Dirio de Notcias, 107 1200-142 LISBOA T: +351 213 219 280 F: +351 213 467 131 E: adegamesquita@hed-web.com W: www.adegamesquita.com BACALHAU DE MOLHO Beco dos Armazns do Linho, 1 1100-037 LISBOA T: +351 218 865 088 F: +351 218 865 078 E: booking@mail.telepac.pt W: www.casadelinhares.com CAF LUSO Tv. da Queimada, 10 1200-365 LISBOA T: +351 213 422 281 F: +351 213 478 320 E: cafeluso@cafeluso.pt W: www.cafeluso.pt CLUBE DO FADO R. So Joo da Praa, 94 1100-521 LISBOA T: +351 218 852 704 F: +351 218 882 694 E: comercial@clube-do-fado.com W: www.clube-do-fado.com SR. VINHO R. do Meio Lapa, 18 1200-723 LISBOA T: +351 213 972 681 F: +351 213 952 072 E: restsrvinho@mail.telepac.pt W: www.restsrvinho.com TAVERNA D'EL REY Lg. do Chafariz de Dentro, 15 1100-139 LISBOA T: +351 218 876 754 F: +351 218 876 754 E: tavernadelrey@hotmail.com W: www.tavernadelrey.com TIMPANAS R. Gilberto Rola, 22/24 1350-155 LISBOA T: +351 213 906 655 F: +351 213 972 431 VELHO PTEO DE SANT'ANA R. Dr. Almeida Amaral, 6 1150-138 LISBOA T: +351 213 141 063 F: +351 213 153 153 E: pateo_santana@velhopateosantana.com w: www.velhopateosantana.com

TIME CAN WAIT

6 _ 7

TOURIST FACILITIES
CHAPIT Costa do Castelo, 1/7 1149-079 LISBOA T: +351 218 855 550 F: +351 218 861 463 E: mail@chapito.org W: www.chapito.org ESPAO RIBEIRA Av. 24 de Julho - Mercado da Ribeira 1200-479 LISBOA T: +351 210 312 600 F: +351 210 312 621 E: espacoribeira@espacoribeira.pt W: www.espacoribeira.pt JARDIM ZOOLGICO DE LISBOA Est. de Benfica, 158-160 1549-004 LISBOA T: +351 217 232 900 F: +351 217 232 901 E: turismo@zoolisboa.pt W: www.zoo.sapo.pt OCEANRIO DE LISBOA Esplanada Dom Carlos I - Doca dos Olivais 1990-005 LISBOA T: +351 218 917 002 F: +351 218 955 762 E: info@oceanario.pt W: www.oceanario.pt

If you then continue, walking up the citys main avenue, you will find plenty of esplanades on the pavement And, if you want to continue the Pessoa tour, then you will naturally want to meet his statue, seated at the esplanade of the Brasileira, in the Chiado. This is one of the busiest areas of the city, its underground station registering more passengers than any other. Going down to Rossio provides you with the opportunity of sitting at what has been for decades the most famous esplanade in the capital the Pastelaria Sua. Sitting here, youll be able to appreciate why they say that Lisboa is made up of many different types of people cultures from all the continents come together in this area, residents and foreigners, in an agreeable confusion of languages, styles of dressing and gesticulating. along the Avenida da Liberdade, which used to be the old pedestrian thoroughfare. In between the trees, alongside small ponds, it is a great place to take a rest. It also follows the underground line, so it can serve as a useful point of departure for more distant excursions. The same goes for the esplanades at the Campo Grande gardens, generally frequented by university students, from the neighbouring faculties. This is an area with a big lake and lots of trees and it also has a cycle path. Many of the citys museums have small esplanades. That of the Museum of Ancient Art enjoys an excellent view over the Tagus. The Museum of Chiado has an interior patio which is an interesting example of modern architecture. The gardens of the Gulbenkian Foundation are full of small esplanades hidden amidst the trees and plants, where you can take a rest. In the area of Belm, the upper terrace of the Cultural Centre, landscaped with olive trees and just in front of the Tagus, is a perfect place from which to appreciate the celebrated light of Lisboa, reflected and diffused on the rivers water. Moreover, there are often music recitals at the end of the day at the Centre. Lisboas Esplanades sitting at them, is like taking part in a film. The anonymous extra in an eternal film who forgets the time that passes.

BARS AND DISCOTHEQUES

BELM BAR CAF Av. Braslia, Pavilho Poente 1300-598 LISBOA T: +351 213 624 232 F: +351 213 624 243 E: belembarcafe@mail.telepac.pt W: www.belembarcafe.pt BLUES CAF - RESTAURAO R. da Cintura do Porto de Lisboa - Edif. 226 1300 LISBOA T: +351 213 957 085 F: +351 213 957 106 E: blues@bluescafe.pt W: www.bluescafe.pt CAF TEATRO SANTIAGO ALQUIMISTA R. de Santiago, 19 1100-493 LISBOA T: +351 218 820 533 F: +351 218 868 917 E: mail@santiagoalquimista.com W: www.santiagoalquimista.com

FOOD AND WINES

ADIVINHO Tv. do Almada, 24 1100-018 LISBOA T: +351 218 860 419 F: +351 218 860 419 E: info@adivinho.com W: www.adivinho.com CASA CADAVAL R. Vasco da Gama 2125-317 MUGE T: +351 243 588 040 F: +351 243 581 105 E: geral@casacadaval.pt W: www.casacadaval.pt

Lisboa has a thousand windows A thousand stories of caravels A thousand guitars strumming I have almost nothing I have my dawn And a little of your glance Lisboa has its trees A castle with nothing left to fear And a river the colour of the sea I have my joy Painted with fantasy And a little of your glance Lisboa has its ferries Who try to be the first To see Lisboa waking up I have a boat on the Tagus That I havent seen for a while And a little of your glance

HELDER MOUTINHO
FADO SINGER

Lisboa has the smell of the sea On calm nights When one sings and dreams I have fado in my heart And a sound voice And a little of your glance Lisboa, 1994

MY LISBOA
Lisboa of a thousand windows

MONUMENTS & MUSEUMS

44 _ 45

MAFALDA ARNAUTH,
a young woman captured by fado

MONUMENTS AND MUSEUMS

ARTE GALERIA Lisboa Welcome Center R. do Arsenal, 15 - 1 1100-038 LISBOA T: +351 964 077 879 E: artejovem.galeria@oninet.pt W: www.artegaleria.com.pt HOUSE-MUSEUM MEDEIROS E ALMEIDA FOUNDATION R. Rosa Arajo, 41 1250-194 LISBOA T: +351 213 547 892 F: +351 213 561 951 E: fmamuseu@hotmail.com W: www.fundacaomedeirosealmeida.pt HOUSE-MUSEUM DR. ANASTCIO GONALVES Av. 5 de Outubro, 6/8 1050-055 LISBOA T: +351 213 540 823 F: +351 213 548 754 E: cmag@ipmuseus.pt W: www.cmag-ipmuseus.pt HOUSE-MUSEUM MESTRE JOO DA SILVA R. Tenente Raul Cascais, 11 R/C 1250-268 LISBOA T: +351 213 961 396 F: +351 213 961 396 MUSEUM OF THE MACAO CULTURAL AND SCIENTIFIC CENTRE R. da Junqueira, 30 1300-343 LISBOA T: +351 213 617 570 F: +351 213 617 598 E: geral@cccm.mces.pt W: www.cccm.mcies.pt MODERN ART CENTRE MUSEUM JOS AZEVEDO PERDIGO R. Dr. Nicolau de Bettencourt 1050-078 LISBOA T: +351 217 823 474 F: +351 217 823 037 E: camjap@gulbenkian.pt W: www.gulbenkian.pt ARPAD SZENES-VIEIRA DA SILVA FOUNDATION P. das Amoreiras, 56/58 1250-020 LISBOA T: +351 213 880 044 F: +351 213 880 039 E: fasvs@fasvs.pt W: www.fasvs.pt CULTURSINTRA FOUNDATION Quinta da Regaleira 2710 SINTRA T: +351 219 106 650 F: +351 219 244 725 E: regaleira@mail.telepac.pt RICARDO ESPRITO SANTOS SILVA FOUNDATION Lg. das Portas do Sol, 2 1100-411 LISBOA T: +351 218 814 600 F: +351 218 814 638 E: geral@fress.pt W: www.fress.pt INSENSATEZ - GALERIA DE ARTE R. Bartolomeu de Gusmo, 21 1100-078 LISBOA T: +351 218 880 553 F: +351 218 880 553 E: insensatez@netcabo.pt W: www.insensatez.net JERNIMOS MONASTERY P. do Imprio 1400-206 LISBOA T: +351 213 620 034 F: +351 213 639 145 E: mosteirojeronimos@mosteirojeronimos.pt W: www.mosteirojeronimos.pt THE CARMO ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM Lg. do Carmo- Runas do Convento do Carmo 1200-092 LISBOA T: +351 213 460 473 F: +351 213 244 252 PHARMACY MUSEUM R. Marechal Saldanha, 1 1249-069 LISBOA T: +351 213 400 680 F: +351 213 472 994 E: joao.neto@anf.pt W: www.anf.pt

MUSIC MUSEUM Estao de Metropolitano do Alto dos Monhos R. Joo de Freitas Branco 1500-359 LISBOA T: +351 217 710 991 F: +351 217 710 999 E: mmusica@ipmuseus.pt W: www.museudamusica-ipmuseus.pt PRESIDENTS OF THE REPUBLIC MUSEUM P. Afonso de Albuquerque 1349-022 LISBOA T: +351 213 614 660 F: +351 213 614 764 E: museupr@zmail.pt W: www.museu.presidencia.pt RDIO MUSEUM R. de Quelhas, 21 1200-779 LISBOA T: +351 213 950 762 F: +351 213 957 149 E: museudaradio@rdp.pt W: www.rdp.pt/geral/museu/index.htm COMMUNICATIONS MUSEUM R. do Instituto Industrial, 16 1200-225 LISBOA T: +351 213 935 159 F: +351 213 935 006 E: museu@fcp.pt W: www.fcp.pt FOLK ART MUSEUM Av. Braslia 1400-038 LISBOA T: +351 213 011 282 F: +351 213 011 128 E: martepopular@ipmuseus.pt W: www.ipmuseus.pt/portu/museus/apopular.htm FTIMA WAX MUSEUM R. Jacinto Marto 2495-450 FTIMA T: +351 249 539 300 F: +351 249 539 301 E: museu@mucefa.pt W: www.mucefa.pt NAVAL MUSEUM P. do Imprio 1400-206 LISBOA T: +351 213 620 019 F: +351 213 631 987 E: geral@museumarinha.pt W: www.museumarinha.pt CHIADO MUSEUM R. Serpa Pinto, 4 1200-444 LISBOA T: +351 213 432 148 F: +351 213 432 151 E: mchiado@ipmuseus.pt W: www.museudochiado-ipmuseus.pt MILITARY MUSEUM Lg. de Santa Apolnia 1196 LISBOA T: +351 218 842 568 F: +351 218 842 556 E: museumilitar@portugalmail.pt W: www.geira.pt/militar NATIONAL MUSEUM OF ARCHAEOLOGY P. do Imprio 1400-206 LISBOA T: +351 213 620 000 F: +351 213 620 016 E: mnarqueologia@ipmuseus.pt W: www.mnarqueologia-ipmuseus.pt NATIONAL ART MUSEUM R. das Janelas Verdes 1249-017 LISBOA T: +351 213 912 800 F: +351 213 973 703 E: mnarteantiga@ipmuseus.pt W: www.mnarteantiga-ipmuseus.pt NATIONAL MUSEUM OF ETHNOLOGY Av. Ilha da Madeira 1400-203 LISBOA T: +351 213 041 160 F: +351 213 013 994 E: mnetnologia@ipmuseus.pt W: www.mnetnologia-ipmuseus.pt

NATIONAL TILE MUSEUM R. da Madre de Deus, 4 1900-312 LISBOA T: +351 218 100 340 F: +351 218 100 369 E: mnazulejo@ipmuseus.pt W: www.mnazulejo-ipmuseus.pt NATIONAL THEATRE MUSEUM Est. do Lumiar, 10/12 1600-495 LISBOA T: +351 217 567 410 F: +351 217 575 714 E: mnteatro@ip-museus.pt W: www.museudoteatro-ipmuseus.pt NATIONAL DRESS MUSEUM Lg. Jlio de Castilho 1600-483 LISBOA T: +351 217 590 318 F: +351 217 591 224 E: mntraje@ipmuseus.pt W: www.museudotraje-ipmuseus.pt NATIONAL COACH MUSEUM P. Afonso de Albuquerque 1300-004 LISBOA T: +351 213 610 850 F: +351 213 637 246 E: mncoches@ipmuseus.pt W: www.museudoscoches-ipmuseus.pt AJUDA NATIONAL PALACE Lg. da Ajuda 1349-021 LISBOA T: +351 213 620 264 F: +351 213 648 223 E: pnajuda@ippar.pt W: www.cidadevirtual.pt/palacio-ajuda/ PENA NATIONAL PALACE Palcio Nacional da Pena 2710-609 SINTRA T: +351 219 105 340 F: +351 219 105 341 E: pnpena@ippar.pt W: www.ippar.pt/monumentos/palacio_pena.html MAFRA NATIONAL PALACE Palcio Nacional de Mafra 2640-492 MAFRA T: +351 261 817 550 F: +351 261 811 947 E: pnmafra@ippar.pt W: www.ippar.pt/monumentos/palacio_mafra.html QUELUZ NATIONAL PALACE Lg. do Palcio 2745-191 QUELUZ T: +351 214 343 860 F: +351 214 343 878 E: pnqueluz@ippar.pt W: www.ippar.pt/monumentos/palacio_queluz.html SINTRA NATIONAL PALACE Lg. Rainha Dona Amlia 2710-616 SINTRA T: +351 219 106 840 F: +351 219 106 851 E: pnsintra@ippar.pt W: www.ippar.pt/monumentos/palacio_sintra.html PAVILLION OF KNOWLEDGE LIVE SCIENCE Parque das Naes - Alam. dos Oceanos 1990-223 LISBOA T: +351 218 917 100 F: +351 218 917 171 E: info@pavconhecimento.pt W: www.pavconhecimento.pt MAFRA NATIONAL WILD LIFE PARK Porto do Codeal 2640-602 MAFRA T: +351 261 817 050 F: +351 261 814 984 E: informacoes@tapadademafra.pt W: www.tapadademafra.pt BELM TOWER Av. de Braslia T: +351 213 620 034 F: +351 213 639 145 E: torrebelem@mosteirojeronimos.pt W: www.mosteirojeronimos.pt

LISBOA FOR WALKING, WATCHING AND EATING

Not even she knows how destiny got her involved in this. But Mafalda Arnauth was captured by Fado and, in just a few years, her extraordinary voice and the poetry she writes have made a decisive contribution to the new wave that is sweeping the so called Portuguese national song. Born in Lisboa, she spoke to us of the Lisboa she belongs to and for which she experiences immediate saudades (a sense of longing) when she has to spend time away from the light, the river and her people.
8 _ 9

MAFALDA ARNAUTH

THE ENCHANTMENT OF LISBOA

This is the album of my life, in terms of histories, moments, influences, she explains. It contains songs she has written and composed herself, as well as adaptations. It includes Milonga do Chiado (a neighbourhood of Lisboa), to which Mafalda has added the refrain Ah, how I understand / that I still miss you The olive trees at the esplanade of the Belm Cultural Centre offer little shade on an afternoon in which the sun is already high in the sky and there is no breeze from the sea. An intense, yet diffuse light is reflected from the Tagus, spreading across Lisboa, the city built on steps, stage to a spectacle of a thousand colours. Mafalda Arnauth, a young fado singer whose voice and style, in just a few years, have gained a new generation of admirers of Fado, is about to release another album. She talks to MY OWN LISBOA about her plans and the relationship she has with Lisboa, a city to fall in love with. I really miss Lisboa. When I travel, I have enormous saudades, especially because of the never ending contact we have with the river and the sea, she says. And then, Lisboa is this mix of so many different people. The old part, where in some quarters neighbours live so closely together almost as if it was still the Middle Ages, and the more modern areas, with their cosmopolitan rhythm, which is in complete contrast. The ascents and descents of the trams also have their charm, but Mafalda recommends walking. From Graa, Castelo, through the Alfama, down to the river, then along the riverside to Belm. So that a foreigner can get to know the people of Lisboa better, because there is a characteristic common to all the Portuguese a playful cheekiness, its very typical, at the same time as It cant be said that the fado singer only likes the food of Lisboa The problem is that I like everything, thats my weakness, she laughs. However, she loves traditional Portuguese cooking and the advice she gives to anyone who isnt familiar with it, is to eat fresh fish and sea food, bacalhau (codfish), naturally, and the sweets. And, if its during the summer they mustnt miss sardines. For a restaurant, try the Solar dos Presuntos, near Avenida da Liberdade (on the same road as the Coliseu dos Recreios). Its always good, the dishes are really Portuguese, not touristy. Or try Guincho or the left bank of the Tagus, for fish and seafood, there are a lot of good restaurants over on the other side. / The cruel ashes that remember / A happy time. I was also left / without all that I wanted / Without all that I loved /And whenever I return here/ I share with you the smell of what it was to love. Mafalda Arnauth loves Lisboa, she walks around it every day but she does have a favourite area, Graa. One day, whilst she was showing the city to an Argentinean friend, from the top of this hill, she was inspired to write a fado: And I run down to the river / kissing the Cathedral on the way/ I reach the Alfama in a delirium / because my Faith is larger. being sweet and open. Its something you cant describe with words. You can only discover alfacinhas (an affectionate term for the people of Lisboa meaning baby lettuce) by having real contact with them. Mafalda made her debut in 1995, at the So Lus Theatre, a venue in the area of Chiado, which she describes as magical. However, her voice has taken her to other exceptionally beautiful places with a very special atmosphere, such as the Ajuda Palace.

RESTAURANTS

42 _ 43

RESTAURANTS
A COMMENDA Centro Cultural de Belm - P. do Imprio 1499-003 LISBOA T: +351 213 648 561 F: +351 213 612 610 E: cerger@cerger.com A PESCARIA Cais da Ribeira Nova, Armazm 18/19 1200 LISBOA T: +351 213 463 588 F: +351 213 463 588 E: pedro-valido@clix.pt ADEGA DO TEIXEIRA R. do Teixeira, 39 - Bairro Alto 1200-459 LISBOA T: +351 213 428 320 AFREUDITE Passeio das Garas, Lt. 4.39- Lj. 1 J 1880-388 LISBOA T: +351 218 940 660 F: +351 219 459 604 E: afreudite@netcabo.pt W: www.afreudite.com GUA E SAL Oceanrio de Lisboa - Esplanada Dom Carlos I- Doca dos Olivais 1990-005 LISBOA T: +351 218 936 189 F: +351 218 936 187 E: aguaesal@iol.pt ALECRIM S FLORES Tv. do Alecrim, 4 1200-019 LISBOA T: +351 213 225 368 F: +351 213 431 600 E: alecrimasflores@famigeste.com ARMAZM F R. da Cintura do Porto de Lisboa Armazm 65, Cais do Gs 1200-109 LISBOA T: +351 213 220 160 F: +351 213 471 135 E: armazemf@netcabo.pt W: www.armazemf.com ATANV R. da Pimenta, 43/45 1990-254 LISBOA T: +351 218 950 480 F: +351 218 950 484 E: atanva@clix.pt W:www.parquedasnacoes.pt/pt/restauracao/ BELM TERRACE Av. Braslia -Edif. de Apoio Nutica Belm 1400-038 LISBOA T: +351 213 620 865 E: margarida.serra@cerger.com BICA DO SAPATO Av. Infante Dom Henrique - Cais da Pedra a Santa Apolnia B 1900 LISBOA T: +351 218 810 320 F: +351 218 810 329 E: bsapato@mail.teleweb.pt W:www.luxfragil.com/bicasapato/bica_beta.html BUFFET DO PLAZA Hotel Lisboa Plaza- TV. do Salitre, 7 1269-066 LISBOA T: +351 213 218 218 F: +351 213 471 630 E: plaza.hotels@heritage.pt W: www.heritage.pt CAF IN Av. Braslia, Pavilho Nascente, 311 1300-123 LISBOA T: +351 213 626 248 F: +351 213 625 999 E: caf-in@gastronomias.com W: www.gastronomias.com/caf-in CAF MARTINHO DA ARCADA P. do Comrcio, 3 1100-148 LISBOA T: +351 218 866 213 F: +351 218 867 757

CASA DO BACALHAU R. do Grilo, 54 1900-706 LISBOA T: +351 218 620 000 F: +351 218 620 008 E: acasadobacalhau@netcabo.pt W: www.acasadobacalhau.restaunet.pt CASA MXICO Av. Dom Carlos I, 140 1200-651 LISBOA T: +351 213 974 790 F: +351 213 975 390 E: contacto@casamexico.pt W: www.casamexico.pt CLARA - JARDIM RESTAURANTE Campo Mrtires da Ptria, 49 1150-225 LISBOA T: +351 218 853 053 F: +351 218 852 082 E: clararestaurant@mail.telepac.pt W: www.lisboa-clara.pt CONSENSO R. Academia das Cincias, 1 1200-003 LISBOA T: +351 213 431 311 F: +351 213 431 312 COSMOS CAF Doca de Santo Amaro, Armazm 243 - Pavilho 5 1350-353 LISBOA T: +351 213 972 747 F: +351 213 972 747 DOM POMODORO Doca de Santo Amaro, Armazm 13 1350-353 LISBOA T: +351 213 909 353 F: +351 213 909 354 E: geral@donpomodoro.com W: www.donpomodoro.com ELEVEN R. Marqus de Fronteira - Jardim Amlia Rodrigues 1070 LISBOA T: +351 213 862 211 F: +351 213 862 214 E: 11@restauranteleven.com W: www.restauranteleven.com ESPAO LISBOA R. da Cozinha Econmica, 16/28 1300-149 LISBOA T: +351 213 610 210 F: +351 213 610 211 E: espacolisboa@sapo.pt ESPRITO DOS TACHOS C. da Estrela, 35/37 1200-166 LISBOA T: +351 213 970 003 HARD ROCK CAF Av. da Liberdade, 2 1250-144 LISBOA T: +351 213 245 280 F: +351 213 245 288 E: lisbon_sales@hardrock.com W: www.hardrock.com IMPRIO DOS SENTIDOS R. da Atalaia, 35/37 1200-037 LISBOA T: +351 213 431 822 E: imperio.dos.sentidos@clix.pt INCIO - RESTAURANTE/BAR R. Presidente Arriaga, 55 1200 LISBOA T: +351 213 905 164 W: www.iniciorestaurante.com JARDIM DO MARISCO Av. Infante Dom Henrique - Doca do Tabaco, Pavilho A/B 1100-282 LISBOA T: +351 218 824 240 F: +351 218 824 249 E: geral@jardimdomarisco.pt W: www.jardimdomarisco.pt LA CAFF - AV. LIBERDADE Av. da Liberdade, 129 B - 1 1250-140 LISBOA T: +351 213 256 736 F: +351 217 986 417 E: sabreu@lanidor.com W: www.lanidor.com

LA CAFF - CAMPO GRANDE Campo Grande, 3 B 1700-087 LISBOA T: +351 217 986 418 F: +351 217 986 417 E: sabreu@lanidor.com W: www.lanidor.com LX IT LISBONNA ITALIANA R. das Gveas,15/17 Bairro Alto 1200-206 LISBOA T: +351 213 432 124 E: lx_it@hotmail.com MAGNOLIA CAFF - LONDRES Av. de Roma, 7 1000-260 LISBOA T: +351 218 471 163 E: geral@magnoliacaffe.com W: www.magnoliacaffe.com MAR DE SABORES Passeio das Tgides, Lt. 2.25.01 1990-280 LISBOA T: +351 218 922 750 F: +351 218 922 757 E: geral@mardesabores.pt W: www.mardesabores.pt NARIZ DE VINHO TINTO R. do Conde, 75 R/C 1200-636 LISBOA T: +351 213 953 035 F: +351 213 932 281 NUNE'S REAL MARISQUEIRA R. Bartolomeu Dias, 120 - Lt. D 1, R/C 1400-031 LISBOA T: +351 213 019 899 F: +351 213 019 899 E: geral@nunesrealmarisqueira.com W: www.nunesrealmarisqueira.com PASTELARIA MEXICANA Av. Guerra Junqueiro, 30 C 1000-167 LISBOA T: +351 218 486 117 F: +351 218 488 462 E: pastelariamexicana@iol.pt W: www.pastelariamexicana.pt PASTELARIA SUIA P. Dom Pedro IV, 96/101 1100-202 LISBOA T: +351 213 214 090 F: +351 213 214 099 E: casasuica@casasuica.pt W: www.casasuica.pt PEIXO R. da Cintura do Porto de Lisboa Edif. 254, Armazm I 1200-109 LISBOA T: +351 213 971 507 F: +351 213 971 203 E: peixao@netcabo.pt REAL FBRICA R. da Escola Politcnica, 275 1250-101 LISBOA T: +351 213 852 090 F: +351 213 872 919 E: realfabrica@realfabrica.pt W: www.realfabrica.pt RESTAURANTE A TRAVESSA Tv. do Convento das Bernardas, 12 1200-687 LISBOA T: +351 213 902 034 F: +351 213 940 839 E: a.travessa@netcabo.pt RESTAURANTE AD-LIB Hotel Sofitel Lisboa Av. da Liberdade, 127 1269-038 LISBOA T: +351 213 228 350 F: +351 213 228 310 E: h1319-fb@accor-hotels.com W: www.sofitel.com RESTAURANTE AVIZ Hotel Aviz R. Duque de Palmela, 32 1250-098 LISBOA T: +351 210 402 000 F: +351 210 402 199 E: geral@hotelaviz.pt W: www.hotelaviz.pt

RESTAURANTE BELCANTO Lg. de So Carlos, 10 1200-023 LISBOA T: +351 213 420 607 F: +351 213 420 608 E: belcanto@netcabo.pt RESTAURANTE BOULEVARD Hotel Travel Park Lisboa Av. Almirante Reis,64 1150-020 LISBOA T: +351 218 102 100 f: +351 218 102 198 E: reservas@hoteltravelpark.com W: www.hoteltravelpark.com RESTAURANTE CASA 21 R. Prof. Fernando da Fonseca Complexo Alvalade XXI 1600-616 LISBOA T: +351 217 512 380 F: +351 217 512 399 E: casa21@casa21.pt RESTAURANTE CASA DO LEO Castelo de So Jorge 1100-129 LISBOA T: +351 218 880 154 F: +351 218 876 329 W: www.pousadas.pt RESTAURANTE COZINHA VELHA Pousada de Queluz - Dona Maria I Lg. do Palcio 2745-191 QUELUZ T: +351 214 350 232 F: +351 214 356 189 W: www.pousadas.pt RESTAURANTE DO TEATRO Hotel NH Liberdade Av. da Liberdade, 180 B 1250-146 LISBOA T: +351 213 514 060 F: +351 213 143 674 E: nhliberdade@nh-hotels.com W: www.nh-hotels.com RESTAURANTE DOCA 6 Doca de Santo Amaro, Armazm 6 1350-353 LISBOA T: +351 213 957 905 F: +351 213 957 894 E: cerger@doca6.pt RESTAURANTE ESTUFA REAL C. do Galvo - Jardim Botnico da Ajuda 1400 LISBOA T: +351 213 619 400 F: +351 213 619 018 E: estufa.real@mail.telepac.pt RESTAURANTE FAZ FIGURA R. do Paraso, 15 B 1100-396 LISBOA T: +351 218 868 981 F: +351 218 822 103 E: faz_figura@hotmail.com RESTAURANTE PAP'AORDA R. da Atalaia,57/59 1200-037 LISBOA T: 213 464 811 F: 213 423 765 RESTAURANTE PARIS R. dos Sapateiros, 126 1100-580 LISBOA T: +351 213 469 797 F: +351 213 421 280 E: restauranteparis@sapo.pt RESTAURANTE PORO DE SANTOS Lg. de Santos, 1 1200-808 LISBOA T: +351 213 965 862 F: +351 213 612 500 RESTAURANTE PRATU'S Solplay Hotel de Apartamentos R. Manuel da Silva Gaio, 2 2795-132 LINDA-A-VELHA T: +351 210 066 056 T: +351 210 066 187 W: www.solplay.pt/hotel RESTAURANTE SACRAMENTO C. Sacramento, 40/46 1200-241 LISBOA T: +351 213 420 572 F: +351 213 420 567 W: www.sacramentolisboa.com

RESTAURANTE SOL DOURADO R. Jardim do Regedor, 21/25 1150-183 LISBOA T: +351 213 472 570 RESTAURANTE TAVARES R. da Misericrdia, 35 R/C 1200-270 LISBOA T: +351 213 421 112 F: +351 213 478 125 E: reservas@tavaresrico.pt W: www.tavaresrico.pt RESTAURANTE TERREIRO DO PAO P. do Comrcio 1100-148 LISBOA T: +351 210 312 850 F: +351 210 312 859 E: terreirodopaco@quintadaslagrimas.pt RESTAURANTE TPICO O MADEIRENSE Centro Comercial das Amoreiras, Lj. 3027 T: +351 213 830 827 E: paula.fernandes@omadeirense.pt W: www.omadeirense.pt RESTAURANTE UAI Cais da Rocha de Conde de bidos - Armazm 114 1350-352 LISBOA T: +351 213 900 111 F: +351 213 860 880 E: uai@uai.pt W: www.uai.pt RESTAURANTE VALLE FLOR Pestana Palace Hotel R. Jau, 54 1300-314 LISBOA T: +351 213 615 600 F: +351 213 615 625 E: sales.cph@pestana.com W: www.pestana.com RESTAURANTE VARANDA Best Western Premier Hotel Eduardo VII Av. Fontes Pereira de Melo, 5 1069-114 LISBOA T: +351 213 568 815 F: +351 213 568 833 E: sales@hoteleduardovii.pt W: www.hoteleduardovii.pt RESTAURANTE VARANDAZUL Estdio do Restelo - Av. do Restelo 1449-015 LISBOA T: +351 213 012 006 F: +351 213 051 585 E: varandazul@gastronomias.com W: www.varandazul.gastronomias.com ROSA MXICO Marina de Cascais, lj. 27 A 2750-000 CASCAIS T: +351 214 818 010 F: +351 213 975 390 E: contacto@casamexico.pt W: www.casamexico.pt STEAKHOUSE R. da Cintura do Porto de Lisboa Armazm 255 1200-109 LISBOA T: +351 213 242 910 F: +351 213 242 911 E: pg01.autebeque@mail.telepac.pt TEMPLO DOS SABORES Tv. do Conde de Soure, 15 1200-119 LISBOA T: +351 213 476 022 E: geral@templodossabores.com W: www.templodossabores.com TERTLIA DO TEJO Doca de Santo Amaro, Pavilho 4 1350-353 LISBOA T: +351 213 955 552 F: +351 213 955 596 TRIPA FORRA Tv. das Mercs, 16 1200-269 LISBOA T: +351 213 433 151

Mafalda Arnauth was born in Lisboa on 4th October, 1974 and revealed a passion for music from very early on. Without ever having aspired to be a performer, Mafalda Arnauth found herself immediately transported into the world of concerts, tours, rehearsals and fado houses, where she was soon overwhelmed by the audiences enthusiastic applause and the discovery of herself through song. With the freshness characteristic of a voice without vices, she captivated audiences, firstly, through her spontaneity, then, through the memories she evoked with a repertoire of old favourites and finally, because of her nature, her compositions and her personality, showing herself in a more genuine and truthful way. Inspired by this approach, even her first album is full

of her own compositions. During the course of her concerts that have taken her to many places in the world, her shows have developed their own particular style. It is through her own songs that she has revealed herself most deeply and her concern is to increase her own repertoire even further so that in time she will leave a mark for her country, her culture, but with her own words. In every continent, she leaves behind her a mark of the past which inspired her, of the present that she inhabits and the future she plans for. Above all, Mafalda Arnauth wants to communicate...

Mafalda Arnauth complains about the major building works in strategic areas of Lisboa, such as the Marqus de Pombal and the Terreiro do Pao (But I suppose the renovation of the big cities has to be like that) and the traffic and problems with parking. But she tries to appreciate the city, without letting stress get a hold of her, given all the rushing about she does due to the fact she is a composer, writer, singer and she produces her own albums and shows. Mafalda Arnauth, Esta voz que me atravessa (This Voice that crosses through me) and Encantamento (Enchantment) are the three albums that the singer has produced so far. Essentially, they amount to a kind of sung biography by someone who has written poetry since she was 15 and who sees herself as more than just optimistic, someone who is able to overcome adversities. It was her school friends that first recognised her talent. I never imagined that one day I would become a fado singer, she confesses. Listening to live fado, creates a very special empathy that cant be reproduced on an album. And for the person singing it there is a rush of adrenalin. Its very emotional and quite special, she explains. Once she tried it she was captured by Fado, which even led to her physical transformation. She concludes, quoting Amlia Rodrigues: Fado happened to me.

A VOICE

WITHOUT VICES

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40 _ 41

FBRICA DOS PASTIS DE BELM

THEY SMELL GOOD,

THEY SMELL OF PASTIS

This walk begins at the Martim Moniz Metro station in Rua do Capelo (1) and continues along Rua da Mouraria to the Church of Senhora da Sade (2), with its beautiful tiles and carved wood altar. The church is open for visits on afternoons or whenever there is a mass. In the recently reconstructed Martim Moniz square (3) is the singularly multi-racial shopping center called Centro Comercial da Mouraria. Enter the picturesque Mouraria quarter by the steps called Escadinhas da Sade (4) and go on to Largo da Rosa, where there is a convent of the same name (5), and the Church of S. Loureno. Now go on to Largo da Achada (6) and the Church of S. Cristvo (7). Then take Calada Marqus de Tancos, and youll come to the municipal market called Mercado Municipal do Cho de Loureiro (8), with its painters studios and splendid terrace. Take Rua da Costa do Castelo past the Chapit circus school (9) then take the S. Crispim stairs (10), down to Rua de So Mamede, with the Correio Velho Palace (11) on the left. Take Travessa do Almada to the Church of Santa Maria Madalena (12). From there, Rua da S takes you to Largo de Santo Antnio (13) with its taverns and the St. Anthony Museum. A little farther up is the Cathedral (14), built

in 1147, where you can visit the church, the treasury and the Roman ruins. Take Rua Augusto Rosa up to the Santa Luzia belvedere (15) and enjoy the panoramic views of the Tagus and the Alfama. But there is still St. Georges Castle (16) to be seen Centro de Interpretao da Cidade. You can reach it with the aid of the map via Rua de S. Tiago. It is worth the climb. The finest views of the city and the river can be had from its gardens and parapets. When you leave, turn left onto Rua do Cho da Feira, to get to Largo Mor and the Church of Santa Luzia (17). Largo das Portas do Sol (18) with its popular caf terraces is an ideal place to take a rest and admire the views. If you feel like continuing, take the stairs on the right down to Largo de S. Miguel, then take the narrow Beco do Carneiro to the Church of Santo Estevo (19). Rua dos Remdios will take you to Largo do Chafariz de Dentro (20) - Fado House and Portuguese Guitar Museum. If it happens to be June, when the Festas Populares take place, youll find the narrow streets and alleys festooned with lamps and decorations and packed with revellers.

MOURARIA CASTELO ALFAMA

An aroma of cream and cinnamon permeates the air and from even a hundred metres away you can already smell the proximity of one of the sacred sites of world famous patisserie: having resisted industrialisation, being sold or franchised, the Pastis de Belm are still one of Lisboas best ambassadors. Everyone falls for their sweet temptation.
The lay workers who lived in them, among them the cooks, had to find employment elsewhere. A pastry cook from the Jernimos Monastery, owner of the precious recipe, is said to have gone to work at a sugar refinery in the surrounding neighbourhood, and within a short time the genuine Pastis de Belm were being sold to the public. They were an immediate success with the people of In the area of Belm, a compulsory stopping place for any tourist visiting Lisboa, there is a very special pastry shop whose fame has spread throughout the world: the only, genuine bakery of Pastis de Belm. During the day, every day of the year, around ten thousand pastis (a kind of custard tart), made completely by hand, leave here, fresh and ready to eat. According to the legend, just like all other traditional Portuguese sweets, the Pastis de Belm originated from a receita conventual (convent recipe) from the neighbouring Jernimos Monastery. Following the Liberal revolution in 1820, religious orders were abolished in Portugal, and their convents and monasteries nationalised. The first pastry cook, the one that came from the Jernimos Monastery, worked late into the night, in secret. He shut himself in his room, not letting anyone enter, while he mixed the ingredients in exactly the right proportions, just as the monk who invented the recipe had taught him. Fearing that the pastis would be copied, the owner of the pastry shop later patented the recipe, which up until now has been kept secret. At present, only three people have access to the magic recipe a pastry cook who has worked for the establishment for half a century, and two trustworthy assistants, who have also been there for decades. They had to swear and oath and sign a declaration promising never to teach the secret to anyone. Today, an average of 10 thousand pastis are made daily. According to the cooks what distinguishes Pastis
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The success of the Pastis de Belm has been an object of study for the most varied of reasons. From primary school pupils who send handwritten letters asking 12 _ what ingredients are used in the recipe, to students of 13 Anthropology writing theses on this pastry. Pedro Clarinha, manager of the house since 1984, has received them all. He gives his assurance that he replies to all queries and proof of his interest in the history of the Pastis de Belm is the fact that he collects, not just all this work, but also newspaper cuttings, curiosities, photographs and autographs of all the famous people who have passed by there. The process of making the pastis is still done by hand. The pastry is moulded into forms by a group of women. They could have been replaced by machines were it not for the concern to preserve this traditional method, which is part of the establishments philosophy. Besides this, the Fbrica dos Pastis de Belm has frequently found itself against the current, explains Pedro Clarinha. Some years ago, when many cafs where getting rid of their chairs in order to deter customers who spend a whole afternoon with just a bica (small coffee), the Fbrica decided to invest in more tables and with success. More recently, offers to buy the business or franchise it have been increasing. However, so far, although not rejecting the idea of expanding the business, the owner has resisted such proposals.

Lisboa, who rushed to buy the new pastries. After that, they became famous throughout the country. With the emergence of mass tourism, in the mid 20th century, the fame of the Pastis de Belm spread across the whole world, from New York to Japan. No wonder, that with such success many have tried both in Portugal and abroad to imitate this product. However, up until now they havent succeeded

de Belm from normal pastis de nata sold in other establishments is, besides the recipe with the exact proportions, the fact that they are prepared by hand using top quality ingredients flour, sugar, milk and eggs.

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THE TILE MUSEUM

Start by taking the Santa Justa Elevator (1) up to the ruins of the Carmo Convent (2), poet Fernando Pessoa, then pass under the great neo-classical archway called Arco da Vitria (15), where the pedestrian mall, Rua Augusta (16) begins, and take in the cosmopolitan buzz of one of Lisbons main shopping hubs. At the top is Praa D. Pedro IV, the square known to Lisboners as Rossio. Turn right off the NE corner of the square to the church of S. Domingos (17), founded in 1241, and reconstructed after the 1755 earthquake. Turn back to where Portugals National Theatre, the neoclassical Teatro Nacional D. Maria II (18), built 1842, stands at the north end of Rossio. From here, Rua das Portas de Santo Anto takes you to the Palcio da Independncia (19) and Praa dos Restauradores (20). On the opposite side of this square are the Palcio Foz (21), the neo-Manueline Rossio railway station, and the Glria Funicular (22), which takes you up to the Bairro Alto, with its narrow streets and bohemian nightlife. As an alternative to the funicular, go back down through Rossio (23) and walk up Rua do Carmo and Rua Garrett, the streets that make up the earth of Chiado. An old quarter dear to Lisboners, the Chiado (24) suffered a serious fire in 1988 and has now been reconstructed following a master plan drawn up by leading Portuguese architect, lvaro Siza Vieira.

UNIQUE
IN THE WORLD

destroyed in the 1755 earthquake. This is the only remaining example of early gothic architecture in Lisbon. Walk up Rua da Trindade, where you can see the impressive faade of the Trindade Theatre (3), then continue down the road to visit the two churches, Igreja do Loreto (4) and Igreja da Encarnao (5). Go down Rua Garrett to the church called Igreja dos Mrtires (6) , then go by Lisbons opera house, the So Carlos Theatre (7), and visit the Chiado Museum (8), in Rua Serpa Pinto. Go down the winding Calada do Ferragial that takes you to the 17th cent. Corpo Santo Church (9) then turn left onto Rua do Arsenal, leading to Praa do Municpio (10), and the Lisbon Town Hall, built in 1774. Two blocks east lies one of Europes outstanding city squares, the 18th cent. Praa do Comrcio (11). From the SE corner of the square, in front of the ferry terminal (12), where you can take a river tour, go east to the Campo das Cebolas, where the odd Casa dos Bicos (13) stands. Now go back along Rua da Alfndega, where youll find the ornate Manueline faade of the church of Nossa Senhora da Conceio (14). Stop off for lunch, or a bica, a little cup of aromatic black coffee, in the 200 year old Caf Martinho dArcada, a favourite haunt of the

38 _ 39

BAIXA CHIADO

Perhaps its most spectacular piece is a gigantic panel of Lisboa seen from the River Tagus. It depicts the city just a few years before the fateful day of 1st November, 1755, when it was destroyed by an earthquake followed by a giant tidal wave. From this panel you can recreate the story and see what the city looked like before the dreadful event that, at the time, shocked the whole of civilised Europe. However, the Tile Museum, with its collection of over 7 thousand pieces, has much more than this to show of a form of art which has become one of Portugals most recognisable hallmarks.

Museu Nacional do Azulejo Rua da Madre de Deus, 4 1900-312 Lisboa Tel.: 218 100 340

Tuesdays from 14h00 to 18h00 Wednesdays to Sundays 10h00 to 18h00 Closed Mondays, Easter Sunday, 1st January, 1st May and 25th December.

Entrance: 2.24 Euros Free on Sundays and public holidays up to 14h00 Buses: 18, 42, 104, 105

14 _ 15

Founded in 1509 by Queen Leonor, the Convent of Madre de Deus was occupied by barefoot Franciscan nuns from the order of Saint Clare. It is these premises, on the east side of Lisbon, that today house the Tile Museum. The museums impressive display contains tiles, ceramics, graphic material and tools. It is believed to be the most extensive collection of tiles in the world, at present totalling 7,300 inventoried pieces. The tradition of the Portuguese tile is rooted in a strong Arabic influence, the result of the occupation of the territory between the 8th and 13th centuries. The collection was initially exhibited at the National Museum of Ancient Art, making up part of the ceramics section. At the beginning of the 1960s this collection was transferred to the Convent of Madre de Deus and enlarged with additions from other museums and state institutions. The collection has been constantly enriched by acquisitions and donations from private individuals and institutions.
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Documenting the 20th century are works by Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro, Raul Lino, Jorge Barradas, Maria Keil, Querubim Lapa, Manuel Cargaleiro, Ceclia de Sousa, Eduardo Nery. Outstanding amongst these, are works Amongst its most outstanding pieces is the panel of Nossa Senhora da Vida (Our Lady of Life), the oriental style altar decoration, from the third quarter of the 17th century, the complete set of tiles from the Hunting Hall, circa 1680, panels from the Masters Cycle, which include the Cena Mitolgico (Mythological Scene) by Gabriel Del Barco, circa 1695, the monumental Vista de Lisboa (View of Lisboa), circa 1700, A Fuga do Egipto (the Flight from Egypt) by Oliveira Bernardes, circa 1730, the series Vitrias de Alexandre, (Alexanders Victories), circa 1745, the series Vida de Cristo (Life of Christ), circa 1760, the panel Quatro Estaes (Four Seasons) circa 1770, or the Histria do Chapeleiro Antnio Joaquim Carneiro (Story of the Hat Maker Antnio Joaquim Carneiro), circa 1800. The 19th century is represented by an important section of semi-industrially and industrially produced tiles from the Fbricas (Factories) de Roseira, Viva Lamego, Santana and Constncia in the region of Lisboa, and the china factory, the Fbrica de Loua de Sacavm. There are also examples from the Fbrica de Massarelos in Porto, the Fbrica das Devesas from Gaia; and the ceramics factory, the Fbrica de Cermica das Caldas da Rainha. by several artists commissioned for the decoration of the Lisbon Underground, and the work of contemporary artists such as Lus Camacho, Bela Silva, Fernanda Fragateiro or Ilda David. Industrial production is represented by tiles from the Fbrica de Loua de Sacavm, from the Fbrica Cermica Viva Lamego and the Fbrica Lusitnia. Amongst the collection of international tiles is an important section on Hispano-Mouresque tiles which were used in Portugal towards the end of the 15th and beginning of the 16th century, an example of which is the corda-seca (a technique in which the clay plate was moulded with the drawings in relief) bearing King Manuels coat of arms (who reigned from 1495 to 1521), the group of Dutch tiles depicting single figures and the panel A Lio de Dana, (the Dancing Lesson) by Willem Van der Kloet, (1707), as well as the section of Art Nouveau tiles produced in France, Belgium, Germany and England from the beginning of the 20th century. There are also pieces by Arnold Zimmerman or Philipe Barde representing examples of contemporary production.

The Tile collection documents the important production of tiles in Portugal from the 15th century up to the present day.

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36 _ 37

Filipe Figueiredo (Graciosa) shows, half seriously and half jokingly, an X ray of his ankle on which you can clearly see 8 screws. It was completely broken. This was how they put it back together, he explains, in relation to a riding accident which occurred two years ago. I dont limp as much now, but two screws had to remain in there, forever, and became part of the bone. It is on a radiantly sunny morning that the Director of the Portuguese School of Equestrian Art receives us in his small office, in one of the buildings adjacent to the Queluz National Palace. It was the most serious accident I have ever had, over decades of riding, but I still had my leg in a cast when I was back mounted on a horse, he says Outside, trainers, grooms and riders are saddling the horses, preparing them for another display of Haute cole. Dressed up in Baroque costumes from the times of King Joo V, in the mid 18th century, the riders are completing the final touches to their horses. They speak to their animals, mount up and move towards the paddock for the warm ups. At the top of the Glria Funicular (1) are the gardens and belvedere of S. Pedro de Alcntara (2). Continue past them along Rua D. Pedro V until you come to the Prncipe Real Gardens (3), under which there is a water cistern, built in 1864 that can be visited on weekdays. Farther down the road are the museums of Natural History and Science (4) and the Botanical Gardens (5). The streets Miguel Pais and Monte do Carmo will take you to Rua Ceclio de Sousa, from which a flight of stairs (6), will take you back up to the Prncipe Real Gardens. Cross the gardens and go down Rua do Sculo, turning right at the bottom into Rua da Academia das Cincias, where the Portuguese Academy of Science and Geological Museum are located (7). Now take Rua de S. Maral up to the romantic little square called Praa das Flores (8), where some excellent restaurants are located. Go down Rua de S. Bento, where there are a number of antique shops and, on the left hand side, Espao por Timor (9), the center created to support the rights of the people of Timor to independence and their courageous resistance to the Indonesian occupation. At the end of the street on the right is the So Bento Palace where the Portuguese Parliament sits (10). Continue in the same direction down Av. D. Carlos I to the fountain called the Chafariz Monumental da Esperana (11), by the architect Carlos Mardel, then take Rua do Poo dos Negros and Calada do Combro up to the Church of Santa Catarina (12) and the magnificent belvedere of the same name (13). Ride the Bica funicular (14) down to Rua de S. Paulo, and to the square, Largo de So Paulo (15), built in 1849, with its church and fountain (16). In Travessa do Carvalho are the old baths known as the Banhos de So Paulo and farther ahead, going west through Praa D. Luis I (17), is the municipal market known as the Mercado Municipal de 24 de Julho (18), built in 1876. There is an important public transport interface with bus, metro, tram and ferry lines at Cais do Sodr (19) railway station, where the Cascais train line begins. Try some charcoal-grilled fish along the attractive Passeio Ribeirinho (riverside walk) (20), then climb Rua do Alecrim to Luis de Cames Square (21) and the Church of S. Roque (22). Go into the Bairro Alto quarter (23) and sample its renowned nightlife. You can hear genuine Fado and pass some enjoyable hours without any worry about personal safety.

AN ART WITH CENTURIES OF HISTORY AND TRADITION

BAIRRO ALTO CAIS DO SODR

TO THE BAROQUE WITH

A JOURNEY

THE LUSITANO

H O R S E
At the old Royal Riding School, in the open air, dozens of people, most of them children from neighbouring schools and groups of tourists, are waiting impatiently around the arena for the show to begin. Every Wednesday, during spring and summer, at around 11h00 there is a classical dressage show. Training from Mondays to Fridays, between 10h00 and 13h00, is open to the public, free of charge. There are several characteristics that are unique about this riding school: for one thing, all the horses are Lusitano thoroughbreds that come from the old Royal Stud Farm of Alter (Alto Alentejo), founded in 1748 by King Joo V. Over the centuries, this breed has evolved
da Ribeira

Every week, a display of horses in Haute cole (classical dressage) takes place in the grandiose setting of the Queluz Palace and Gardens. The star of the event is the Lusitano, a horse which was on the verge of extinction, but is now bred and admired throughout the world.

A DISPLAY OF RHYTHM AND COLOUR

The display lasts around an hour and involves eight to ten pairs, led by Filipe Figueiredo. The sequence of movements of horses and riders belong specifically to the Portuguese School and are a form of dressage related to the art of bullfighting on horseback, a unique feature in the world and one that Portugal has preserved. The audience, especially its younger members, noisily applauds the appearance of a rider just coming into sight, a sign that the show is about to begin. The music, which consists of extracts from Baroque composers, fills the air and horses and riders advance in step to its rhythm. Splendidly colourful, with the red of the jackets contrasting with the deep greens of the magnificent gardens and woodlands of the Queluz Palace, Filipe Figueiredos team straightens itself, parades past and makes a formal salute. With a moustache fashioned

16 _ 17

according to the style of bygone eras, the head horseman leads his mount through specific steps, followed immediately by the other horses. The temperament of the Lusitano horse is ideal for Haute cole. They are docile animals but steady, intelligent but creative, Filipe Figueiredo explains to us. And each one has his own personality. There are those that get nervous when they hear clapping, which they have to get used to; and there are those that get excited when they hear clapping, and perform even better, true artists. The Lusitanos, which were on the verge of extinction only decades ago, are today bred by the Portuguese State at public stud farms. They are now highly sought after and twice a year they are sold at auction. In Portugal, private breeders have regained an interest in rearing Lusitanos and just about all over the world, especially in Brazil and the United States, this breed is becoming increasingly popular. Heir to a cultural heritage unique in the world, the Portuguese school of Equestrian Art is definitely worth a visit.

through the influence of crossbreeding with horses native to Lusitania (the ancient name for Portugal), which were famous for their speed during the Roman Empire, the neighbouring Andalusian horse and the Arabian thoroughbred. The end product is an animal

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which is not very large, yet versatile, intelligent and resistant.

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A JOURNEY TO
THE BAROQUE WITH

WALKS

THE LUSITANO

H O R S E
THE FIGURES
Work in hand used for teaching Ares Altos (airs above the ground). The preparatory exercise is the piaffe which involves the horse trotting on the spot with a high action of the legs. The exercises also include the capriole, in which the horse leaps upwards with a vertical kick of its hind legs, remaining momentarily in the air, reminding one of a winged horse; the levade, in which the horse rears up on its hind legs gracefully bending its forelegs in the classic posture of many equestrian statues; the courbette in which the horse jumps forwards on its hind legs from the levade position; finally, the piaffer nos piles (piaffe on the pillars). The old riding masters used the piles (poles with two rings in the centre of the arena, between which the horse was held) in order to increase the horses concentration.
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LONG REIGNS
Through training, the horse becomes docile and acquires a slow gait which allows it to be lead at a walk. Indications from the reigns and the crop are sufficient for the Lusitano to perform the most difficult dressage exercises when mounted.

PAS-DE-TROIS
Demonstration by three riders of the various movements and figures in the three gaits.

Begin your walk at the Estrela Gardens (Jardim da Estrela) (1) with their wrought iron bandstand: Buses: 9, 27; Trams: 25, 28. Facing the gardens is the Estrela Basilica (Baslica da Estrela) (2), in late baroque and neo-classical style. The four columns on the faade are topped with statues representing Faith, Devotion, Gratitude and Generosity. The relief behind is thought to be the work of Portugals foremost 18th cent. sculptor, Machado de Castro. Take the streets Domingos Sequeira and Saraiva de Carvalho to the square Praa So Joo Bosco and the Prazeres Cemetery (Cemitrio dos Prazeres) (3) and then, taking Rua Possidnio da Silva, go on to Tapada das Necessidades (4) to see its excellent cactus gardens. Nearby is the Necessidades Palace (5), built in the 18th cent. and now home to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. From the square in front (6) you can pick out the 25 of April bridge, inaugurated in 1966, and the Christ the King monument on the other side of the river. Note the bronze cross on a thorned sphere in the 1747 fountain, and an obelisk in pink marble. Now go down Calada

do Sacramento leading to the Alcntara quarter (7) and Praa da Armada (8), where there are a number of good, low-priced restaurants and taverns. Continue your walk along Calada da Pampulha to Rua das Janelas Verdes: on one side is the Dr. Jos Figueiredo square (9) with its great fountain, and on the other the National Museum of Art (10). From the gardens (Jardim 9 de Abril) (11) beside it there are views over the river and the Port of Lisbon. Overlooking the gardens is the Red Cross Palace, the stairs leading of the gardens will take you down to Av. 24 de Julho. Cross the avenue and the railway line alongside it then turn right on to Av. Braslia and follow it to the Alcntara Dock (12) where youll find the Maritime Terminal (13) with its great mural panels by the Portuguese modernist painter Almada Negreiros. Walk through the bustling, cosmopolitan Santo Amaro Dock (14), packed with riverside caf terraces, bars and discos. Buses 14, 32, 43, 28 will take you back to the center.

QUADRILLE
A group of eight to ten riders perform a kind of equestrian ballet in perfect synchronisation, enthralling the audience who often clap in time to the rhythm of the movements.

SOLO
Presentation of a mounted horse with three gaits walking, trotting, cantering

ARES ALTOS
The exercises which were carried out in hand are now performed on a mounted horse. The ares altos are the climax of the art of Baroque horsemanship.

Display of Equestrian Art Portuguese School of Equestrian Art Queluz National Palace For more information: www.cavalonet.com/epae

From May to October Displays every Wednesday at 11h00

Tickets: 9 euros, 50 percent discount for the over 65s, free for children up to the age of 8. Training, during the whole year, from Mondays to Fridays, from 09h30 to 13h00, at the Queluz National Palace Gardens, entrance free.

ESTRELA PRAZERES ALCNTARA DOCAS

The National Republican Guard is responsible for the security of the Belm Palace, the President of Portugals official residence. The guards on sentry duty outside the Palace change over regularly, according to military rules. However, once a month there is a much bigger and more elaborate ceremony. All the members of the Guard (those going off duty and those taking over), the Bugles of the Infantry Regiment, the Band of the Commander-General, a Cavalry Platoon and the Cavalry Band. The ceremony begins at 11h00, with the lining up of the two guards in front of the Palace, to the accompaniment of music played by the Band. This is followed by the Salutation between the Guards and the Handing over of the Sentry Duty, during which the Portuguese National Anthem is played.

The Cavalry Platoon goes into the Palace, accompanied by the Cavalry Band, now playing different music. The Band and the Bugles then carry out a ceremony of sound and movement. This involves different steps, both on foot and on horseback and is called Brinco da Banda. After this, they leave the Palace and make their way back to the Cavalry Regiment barracks, in the neighbouring area of Ajuda. After the Final Salutation between the Guards, the ceremony ends with the exit from the palace of the Guard going off duty, which marches to the Jernimos Monastery, whilst the Guard taking over, enters the palace, to the music of the band, marking the beginning of their shift. One of the main attractions of this ceremony is the performance of the GNR

Cavalry Band, the only one in the world which plays music at a gallop. The riders, besides being accomplished musicians, also know how to ride a horse, and coordinate its movements with the rest of the group

18 _ 19

COLOUR, MUSIC AND CEREMONY AT THE CHANGING OF THE GUARD OF THE PRESIDENT OF THE REPUBLIC
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Horses, riders, standards, sparkling uniforms, gleaming helmets, drums, cymbals and trumpets in a fusion of rhythm and ceremony. The Changing of the Guards is a unique event in Lisboa and takes place outside the Belm Palace on the third Sunday of each month, at 11h00.

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MARCHAS POPULARES

ONE OF THE BIGGEST EUROPEAN

FESTIVALS
The most original parade, the best music, the best choreography or visual arrangement and the most original lyrics are the subject of heated debate between the rival neighbourhoods in the months following the marchas populares.

32 _ 33

This western suburb has an enormous number of prime tourist sights and cultural attractions. Bus: 14, 27, 29, 43, 49, 51. Tram: 15. Train: Belm station on the Cais do Sodr Cascais line. Begin at the Belm Palace (Palcio de Belm) (1), official residence of the President of the Republic, and try one of the renowned Belm pastries in the traditional pastry shop on the corner (2). Walk up Calada do Galvo to the Tropical Agricultural Garden-Museum (Jardim-Museu Agrcola Tropical) (3) and then go back down to the Jeronimos Monastery (Mosteiro dos Jernimos) (4) and to the Archaeological Museum (Museu de Arqueologia) (5). Visit the Gulbenkian Planetarium (Planetrio Gulbenkian) (6) and the Maritime Museum (Museu de Marinha) (7). Take a look in the spectacular Belm Cultural Center (Centro Cultural de Belm) (8), designed by Italian architect Vittorio Gregotti and Portuguese architect Manuel Salgado, and have lunch looking out over the Tagus and the Belm gardens (9). Cross over to the riverfront using the pedestrian underpass and visit the Discoveries

Monument (Padro dos Descobrimentos) (10). Take the elevator up to the top, enjoy the panoramic views, and dont miss the birds-eye view of the great Compass Rose (Rosa dos Ventos) on the pavement below. Next walk west along the riverfront to the Museum of Folk Art (Museu de Arte Popular) (11). Continuing in the same direction, walk by the Bom Sucesso dock (Doca do Bom Sucesso) (12) until you come to the famous Belm Tower (Torre de Belm) (13). After visiting it, continue past the Bom Sucesso fort (Forte do Bom Sucesso) (14) next door and use the pedestrian bridge to cross the train tracks and highway to Av. Torre de Belm (15), walk up it to Rua de Pedrouos where you can catch a number 15 tram to Praa Afonso de Albuquerque (16) and the Belem River Ferry Station (Estao Fluvial de Belm) (17). A short walk east is the Electricity Museum (Museu da Electricidade) (18). After a visit here, relax on one of the river front terraces. Buses for the center: 14, 28, 43, 49, 51.

BELM

20 _ 21

which its inhabitants are known. The sea, fishing, fado, traditional trades, political satire, arches and vases of flowers, the ephemeral manjerico (a kind of basil which is one of the traditions of the festival) with its distinctive and unforgettable smell, are themes which are always present in the parade. Each entry is judged by a jury and the results of the prizes for the most original parade, Lisboa is in a state of permanent street partying at the beginning of Summer. The reason is the commemoration of the Popular Saints Saint Anthony, Saint John and Saint Peter - on 13th ,24th and 29th June, respectively. One of the high points of the street celebrations are the Marchas Populares, a costumed parade of local neighbourhood groups along the Avenida da Liberdade. They represent months and months of work, of rehearsals, involving thousands of people, of all ages and social groups, whose aim is to present to the public,
CHURCH ELEVATOR / FUNICULAR TRAM BELVEDERE TRAIN STEPS FERRY METRO

The judging of the parade takes place at the Atlantic Pavilion, at the Park of Nations. The Marchas Populares began in 1932 and the Popular Saints Celebrations are ranked 19th amongst the 50 best European festivals, coming just after such well known European events as the Aalborg Carnaval, in Denmark and the Tomatina (Tomato Festival) in Spain, on a list headed by the Fallas de Valncia.

the best music, the best choreography or visual arrangement, the most original lyrics are the subject of heated debate between the rival neighbourhoods in the months following the marchas populares. The major champions in the category of Best March, have been the neighbourhoods of the Alfama (which has won 12 times), Madragoa (9 times) and Bica (7 times). However, Graa, Ajuda, Carnide, Bela Flor, Mouraria, Lumiar, Bairro Alto, Olivais, Campolide, S. Vicente, Marvila, Benfica, Castelo, Alto do Pina, Alcntara, Beato and the groups representing the Markets, all put up some fierce competition. The Childrens March organised by the Voz do Operrio, although not part of the competition, is one of the highlights of the parade, going by the applause of the crowds lined up along the Avenida da Liberdade.

the best dances, the best costumes, the most spectacular arrangement, sung and danced to the rhythm of a musical genre the march - a typical form of song for Lisboa and the alfacinhas, the name by

TRAM LINE

COMPANHIA NACIONAL DE BAILADO

CLASSICAL AND MODERN BALLET

With its Turkish artistic director, Mehmet Balkan, the CNB and its corps of 80 ballerinas has worked regularly Set up in 1977, the Companhia Nacional de Bailado is Portugals leading dance company. Throughout its 30 years of existence, it has been responsible for the first national productions of classical ballets such as Swan Lake, Romeo and Juliet, Giselle, The Firebird, The Nut Cracker Suite and The Consecration of Spring. It has also presented works by modern and contemporary creators such as Balanchine, Lifar, Limon, Forsythe, Keersmaeker, amongst others. In relation to Portuguese choreographers, its repertory includes works by Armando Jorge, Fernando Lima, Carlos Trincheiras and Olga Roriz. Besides its regular tours in Portugal, the Companhia Nacional de Bailado has performed in Spain, France, Switzerland, Germany, Brazil and China. with the Portuguese Symphonic Orchestra, the Lisboa Metropolitan Orchestra and the Porto National Orchestra. It is based at the Cames Theatre at the Park of Nations. In May and June, the Companhia Nacional de Bailado performed A Midsummer Nights Dream. The Company then began a national tour of the ballet, taking it to Coimbra, Porto, vora, Alcobaa, Figueira da Foz, Faro, Serpa and Aveiro. In November, when it returns to Lisbon, it will present Danar (Dance) a work by Hans von Manen, and in December, D. Quixote.
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Teatro Cames Passeio de Neptuno Park of Nations Tel.: 21 892 36 70

MY LISBOA
The magnificent light of Lisboa
Lisboa is my city, where I was born and which I learned to explore and love from my childhood. At that time, it was a much calmer city than it is today, with the trams travelling up and down the hills, and the boys playing football out on the street, or on some terrace, chasing after a cloth ball, which didnt bounce as much and was easier to control. I owe my love of sport to Lisboa because thats where it all began. Today the city has grown, modernised itself, but the light has remained unaltered. The magnificent light of Lisboa, on the rooftops and the pale coloured houses, the marvellous riverside and the city which stretches down to the edge of the Tagus, are all what make Lisboa so unique and unrepeatable. The whole city faces towards the river, to the south, and at midday, it is filled with light, giving it a joyful air, which warms the houses and their inhabitants. Lisboa is today, as it always has been, a gentle, agreeable city, enjoyable to walk around, whether it be through the streets of the old neighbourhoods which meander up the hills, or along the modern riverside area, where we can find a vast array of bars, restaurants and shops, ready to satisfy any tastes and any budgets. I confess that this is my favourite area of Lisboa, because of the light, because of the wide-open views, and its here that I would like to take you, the reader, when you come to visit our city. The Belm area/ the Jernimos Monastery: There is certainly a lot to see at the Jernimos Monastery, which any guidebook can tell you about much better than I can. But, walk towards Belm (even before the famous Pastis de Belm, that you absolutely cannot miss) and explore the Tropical Gardens. These are beautiful, spacious and extremely quiet. Leaving them, go down towards the river, crossing the Praa do Imprio on foot, and you will find an underpass that brings you out directly in front of the Monument to the Discoveries. This monument, along with the Tower of Belm, definitely deserves a visit and you will find detailed descriptions in all the guidebooks. However, you should also know that there is a great restaurant just 2 steps away, which is the Vela Latina. If you can, choose the restaurant section and not the terrace, otherwise you will have your back to the river. The menu certainly has excellent fresh fish cooked to suit your choice and neither will you remain indifferent to the wine list. Having eaten, return by the pedestrian footbridge and visit the Belm Cultural Centre which stages some of the best cultural events that Europe has to offer. Architecturally, the building is very interesting and its contents are very varied. There is an excellent view of the river from the esplanade. There are also various options for shopping and eating. Continuing on our journey: just two steps away from the same place is the Maritime Museum, which has a lot to tell about the Portuguese and the sea. After that, the Planetarium, an extraordinary display and a chance for a rest in a comfortable chair looking at the night sky of Lisboa. Imagining that you will want to go out on this particular night, I have some more suggestions: head along the riverfront, but take something warm because the night can be chilly. In Santa Apolnia there is the restaurant Bica do Sapato, which will certainly exceed your expectations: ask your hotel to reserve you a decent table so you wont run the risk of having to eat late. If you feel like dancing you have Lux just nearby. Getting in might seem a bit restrictive but its for your own comfort. Dress up in your best fashion style and theyll certainly let you in. If you prefer something more local, you have the Docas where, bar after bar, restaurant after restaurant, will guarantee you a fun and a well-spent night. If you can last the pace until dawn, I leave you with two final suggestions: watch the sun come up from the Adamastor gardens in the Santa Catarina neighbourhood or from the Portas do Sol, near the Castle, and you will understand what I mean about the light of Lisboa. Welcome to my city!

FROM SARDINES
Every year, the people of Lisboa greet the beginning of Summer by decreeing the opening of the sardine season. Taking advantage of the warm nights, ideal for eating out in the open-air, the alfacinhas (an affectionate term for natives of Lisboa, meaning baby lettuces) commemorate the 13th June, the day of their patron saint, Saint Anthony, with a series of initiatives in which grilled sardines are an essential feature. The marchas populares, a costumed parade of the traditional neighbourhoods down the Avenida da Liberdade, arraiais (street parties) at the Castelo, Graa, Mouraria and the Alfama, and the Lisboa nights buzzing with light, colour and music. From the very old to the very young, from the most traditional to the most fashionable, at this time of year all the alfacinhas have one thing in common, which brings them all together in the same space in cheerful interaction grilled sardines. Accompanied by red wine or beer, eaten with boiled potatoes moistened with olive oil and a salad of lettuce, tomatoes and peppers, the sardines are grilled and eaten hot, preferably on a piece of bread, which absorbs the oil. The final treat is to eat the piece of bread, which has been soaked with the juice of ten, twelve or even more sardines. A typical Mediterranean diet. Where can you eat this typical Lisboa dish? In hundreds of places, from the more classical restaurants, in modern areas, to the local taverns, in the old neighbourhoods of the city. If you can, try eating the sardines in the open air this is more in line with the spirit of the dish, and the strong smell (possibly the only inconvenience) evaporates more rapidly.

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TO CHESTNUTS
Another of Lisboas urban rituals is the celebration of Saint Martins day, on 11th November. According to tradition, at this time of year, chestnuts are roasted and the new wine tasted. As a sign that winter has arrived, the city fills up with street vendors selling roast chestnuts. The white smoke billowing from the fire, the strong but pleasant smell, the crackling of the salt thrown on to the chestnuts, all help to warm the souls of passers by, who interrupt their hurried pace to buy a dozen, wrapped up in a typical cone made of newspaper. Hot and tasty Hot and tasty, cry the street vendors. Roast chestnuts, just like sardines, have to be eaten hot from the coals. According to tradition, the festas de So Martinho (Saint Martins celebrations), are rooted in pagan times. They include the roasting of chestnuts, the sampling of the wine in the wine cellars (of which the gua-p, a wine lower in alcohol, is the preferred choice for the occasion) and jumping over the bonfire. This is a social occasion for all generations and it is called the magusto, the time of rest, after the intense harvest period for the wine in September and October. Before the advent of the potato in Europe, which spread to its far corners (17th century), the chestnut was part of the essential diet, especially in the countryside. Besides roasting, it can be boiled, pured, used in soups, sweets etc. Wet them (this helps the salt to stick to them). Make a cut in each of them. Add the salt. Add some herbs (this increases the flavour). Place them in the fire (or on a tray in the oven, or on a grill). A quarter of an hour later, the chestnuts will be roasted.

How to prepare chestnuts for roasting?

JOO LAGOS
Organiser of sports events

EXPERIMENTADESIGN
THE CITYS LEADING CULTURAL EVENT

SUNDIALS IN LISBOA

LISBOAS DESIGN BIENNIAL

The fourth edition of Experimentadesign takes place from the 15th September to the 30th October in Lisboa. This is the most recent biennial of European design that in just seven years has become the biggest, regular, cultural event in Portugal, earning worldwide recognition.

FOLLOWING THE SHADOW OF

This marked the discovery of the basic principles of gnomonics (from the Greek gnomon, the pointer, which casts the shadow). Gnomonics is the science which studies ways of measuring time by using the Sun. Man was soon replaced by a stick in the ground, and the movement of the shadow led to the idea of the first dial. Combining the astrological observation of the skies (for religious motives) with the first rudiments of spatial direction East, West, North, South - the religious elite constructed carefully positioned megalithic structures in many parts of the world. Stonehenge is the most famous example of these stone circles. However, many more of this species of giant sundial exist throughout Europe, Portugal included, stretching as far as the Atlantic, and at certain times of the year they still mark the time of solstices and equinoxes. Gnomonics was first developed by the Chaldeans, then the Greeks and later the Romans. The first nonmegalithic sundials arrived in the territory that is Portugal today through the Roman occupation (218 BC. 409 AD.) and examples of these are still being found. With the Middle Ages and the occupation of

However, it was during the Baroque period, that sundials enjoyed a surge in popularity with the money from gold from Brazil, the monarch at the time, King Joo V, furnished almost all the monasteries and convents in Portugal with sundials. Moreover, the nobility ordered beautiful sundials for their palaces and estates. Most of these have already been removed from their original sites, but others have remained in tact.

TIME

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The 2005 edition of Experimentadesign, once again working in partnership with the Lisboa Municipal Council and with the support of the Portuguese Ministry of Culture, is centred around the theme The Medium is the Matter. According to the organisers, this years theme completes a cycle. In 2001, the biennial focused on Modus Operandi, reflecting an interest in specific ways of producing culture in the different areas of design, art and architecture. In 2003, the subject for reflection was Beyond Consumption and was related to the position of the consumer, spectator and user. Now, The Medium is the Matter will focus on the medium and the materials used for transmission in the stage between creator and receiver. The discussion will centre on the means of communication and communicative objects a realm where sometimes the matter seems less important than the message it conveys, and in which the interaction between those who create and those who receive becomes the actual product.

the Iberian Peninsular by invaders coming from the north, gnomonics , along with many other areas of knowledge, disappeared. With the Arab occupation which followed, it was still not used. Only when the Christian forces began to reconquer the territory, with the help of the religious orders, particularly the Benedictines, did gnomonics enjoy a renaissance. In the early days of the Portuguese expansion, gnomonics was very much used in the art of navigating, although it wasnt able to provide the answer to the principle question the discovery of the longitude at sea (which was only resolved through mechanical watches). But, still today, in Portuguese museums (the Maritime Museum, in the area of Belm, is one of them), one can find many portable sundials. These are usually finely carved in ivory and capable of providing the time in Paris or Rome, London, Hamburg or Lisboa. There are vertical, horizontal and equatorial sundials and sundials for solstices, or sundials that incorporate all of these. Lisboa also has sundials in public places. We would like to challenge all those visiting the city to discover them. They are usually very beautiful pieces, which often go unnoticed in an age in which time rushes by and there isnt enough of it to appreciate the evolution of the shadow of the Sun Have you ever noticed that the S de Lisboa (Lisboa Cathedral) has a sundial? Above, on the opposite page, are some examples of Lisboas gnomonics. These are just a few of them, but there are others out there waiting for you.

The most recent biennial of European design has received world recognition, thanks to the extreme professionalism of its organisers and creators [] As a unique regular event in the field of theoretical reflection on design, Experimenta has already assumed a crucial role in discovering new forms of repositioning the culture of design as a point of strategic balance between economic capacity and cultural identity. IN MODEM THE INTERNATIONAL DESIGN REFERENCE GUIDE (PARIS), 2003 [] it has managed to establish something like a private centre for design. It is completely independent and promotes national design both in cultural terms, as well as in economic terms. In short, it does exactly what the 16 German design centres do. But with one fundamental difference: it is much more successful. IN FORM (GERMANY), Jan/Feb 2004

RUA DE CAMPOLIDE, PRIVATE HOUSE

AMOREIRAS, ANADIA PALACE

AMOREIRAS, ME DE GUA

SO SEBASTIO DA PEDREIRA, CHURCH OF SO SEBASTIO DA PEDREIRA 24 _ 25

Text: Fernando Correia de Oliveira Photos: Jorge Correia Santos

The first natural rhythm that Man became aware of was the sequence of day into night. He then began to appreciate the more subtle rhythms of nature with the perceptible changes of the seasons. By observing its movement, primitive man understood that sometimes the Sun made a higher and sometimes a lower curve on the horizon, from East to West. With the emergence of Agriculture, and the settling of humans in one place, primitive societies developed a more palpable relationship with time imitating the rhythms of nature. There was a period for sowing seed, a period of waiting for the plants to grow, a period for gathering or harvesting the produce, a period of rest for all nature, when it appeared to have died, only to surge to life again. Through variations in the height of the Sun and the changes of the seasons, Man was able to understand the period of the year. Moreover, a certain class, the elite who observed the sky and guarded this knowledge, began to work out a calendar. This became an instrument of power, whatever the society or the times. In order to measure the time of one day, almost instinctively, man began measuring his own shadow cast on the ground. When the Sun reached its highest point the zenith of a certain place the shadow was shorter, expanding and diminishing before and after, respectively. Since 1999, Experimentadesign has been building an international platform in Lisboa. This has been geared towards reflection and experimentation, as well as raising awareness of the importance of design in it its many different forms, not only within the context of Portuguese society, but also internationally. Design as a creative activity, responsible for producing the most adequate responses to the needs of contemporary society has been Experimentadesigns focus of attention. The economic, ecological, technological, sociological aspects of design, within the specialised areas of interior design, architecture, photography, new media, dance, visual arts, cinema, fashion design and web design, will once again be the subject of discussion as part of the creative process of the Lisboa Biennial. The week of the 15th to 18th September, which inaugurates Experimentadesign 2005, will be an authentic whirlwind of events, from exhibitions to conferences, in which the various creative disciplines will be represented by guests from all over the world. The exhibitions Catalysts!, My World, New Crafts, SCool Ibrica, Architecture and Design of Portugal 1990-2004 and Casa Portuguesa (Portuguese House), among others, will be accompanied by the series, Conferences of Lisboa, in which specialists and practitioners from the international arena of design and the various disciplines included within the Biennial will speak and participate in debates. These will take place in the Belm Cultural Centre and at the Palcio Pombal (Chiado). As usual, the Biennial with have a Lounging Space at the Palcio de Santa Catarina. This will be open during the 45 days of Experimentadesign, and will provide a place for the general public to get information, enjoy a drink at the bar and buy publications and merchandising goods. The 2003 Biennial had around 150 thousand visitors, almost double the number in 2001 and ten times that of the 1999 edition. It is expected that the Experimentadesign 2005 will beat new records in public attendance. For further details: www.experimentadesign.pt.

MODA LISBOA
In only a very short time, a dynamic team of young designers and entrepreneurs have established a vast universe of Portuguese products and concepts, under the umbrella label, Moda Lisboa. What began 12 years ago as a fashion show, has turned into a galaxy of events, support for artists and the exportation of the image of a modern and cosmopolitan Portugal. Aforest-Design, Alexandra Moura, Alves/Gonalves, Ana Salazar, Anabela Baldaque, Cheyenne, Dino Alves, Jos Antnio Tenente, Katty Xiomara, Lanidor, Lidija Kolovrat, Lion of Porches, Lus Buchino, Maria Gambina, Miguel Vieira, Nuno Baltazar, Osvaldo Martins, Pedro Mouro, Ricardo Dourado and Story Tailors are all designers sponsored by Moda Lisboa. Information about them can be found on the site
FTIMA LOPES LENA AIRES

On the site, tourists can access information, which includes much more than just fashion. In the Design section, there are pieces by Fernando Brzio, Marco Sousa Santos, Miguel Vieira Baptista and Ricardo Mealha/Ana Cunha. Portuguese products, from china to soaps, through to glass, cork and cutlery are also connected to this creative national universe.

The label is gaining recognition internationally and has already carried out initiatives promoting Portuguese fashion and design in Madrid, Paris, London, Milan, Tokyo and New York. This October it celebrates its 25th edition.

NEW HOTEL IN

CHIADO
The most recent boutique hotel has just opened in The hotel also has the Restaurant Flores (inspired by Romanticism), the Caf Bar Garrett, a fitness room, underground car park and excellent access served by trams, buses and the underground. the heart of the historic, cultural and commercial centre of Lisboa. This is the Bairro Alto Hotel, a building which has preserved its classical Portuguese facade. It has 55 rooms and suites, equipped with the latest technology (access to the Internet, HI-FI system, TV with LCD/DVD).
Bairro Alto Hotel Praa Lus de Cames, n 8 1200-243 Lisboa Tel.: (351) 21 340 8222 e-mail: reservations@bairroaltohotel.com website: www.bairroaltohotel.com

In art, names such as Ana Jotta, Joana Vasconcelos or No Sendas display their most recent work. The site also houses the more traditional handicrafts, alongside the very latest creations in this area Aliana Artesanal, Ceclia Povoas and Santos Ofcios are suggestions for those wanting to acquire something of the spirit of Portugal.

www.modalisboa.pt.

A WORLD AT THE REACH OF A

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A DIFFERENT WAY OF GETTING TO KNOW LISBOA AND ITS SURROUNDINGS

ONBOARD A

CLICK
In the last decade, two areas in Lisboa have begun specialising in cutting edge fashion and design shops. The Bairro Alto/Chiado area and Santos, near the river. From small shops to larger stores, in a young and cosmopolitan environment, this is where the showcase for Portuguese creativity can be found. Its also in these areas that you can find most of Lisboas cyber cafs. In Santos, for example, the Fundao Portuguesa das Comunicaes (Rua do Instituto Industrial, 15) has a Multimedia Centre, where any visitor can easily access the site, Moda Lisboa. With the comfort of the net, a visit to the site Moda Lisboa opens up a world of creativity, and gives you some suggestions for the best you can buy and the most genuine in terms of Portuguese creativity. Click onto www.modalisboa.pt and give yourself a pleasant surprise. romantic sunset

SIDECAR
With the wind in your hair, enjoy the agility of a vehicle that can dodge just about any traffic jam. Moving at its own pace, the sidecar is a way of travelling around Lisboa and its surroundings. From the top of the hills to the bottom of the valleys. From the banks of the Tagus to the north flank of the city, along the wide avenues and the narrow streets of the old neighbourhoods. Through the mountains of Sintra or of Arrbida. Stopping your sidecar where you want to, for a meal, to take some photographs or to watch a A drive around Lisboa, along the Estoril Coast or through the Mountains of Sintra and Arrbida, is what Sidecar Touring Co proposes. A journey reliving the 40s, when motorbikes and sidecars were at the peak of their popularity. Without any particular hurry and at your own pace, the driver can take you through the most famous streets of the city, stopping when and where you want to in order to enjoy the best that Lisboa can offer. If you happen to be a nature lover, however, then you can roll along the Estoril Coast, towards the Sintra Mountains, in a replica of the mythical Second World War sidecar, the BMW R71, or in a model from a more recent era. There you can feel the breezes and scents of century-old roads, culminating in the town of Sintra. Besides the various standard tours that STC has to offer, there are also trips especially designed for children from the age of 7, upwards. These include visits to the Oceanarium, the Zoo or the Toy Museum. This is the ideal way of travelling around, without the usual sight restrictions. Sidecars are also very popular with people who suffer from problems with physical mobility, who can enjoy a discount of 20%. For more information, visit www.sidecartouring.co.pt or tel. 963 965 105.