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y ou r f r e e c opy
I S S N 1 3 1 2 - 5 4 9 4
summer 2012
llc |n|dcr qu|dc
Year 10 issue 2 summer 2012
Insiders summer 2
Cultural venues 8
Inside Bulgaria
Country & climate 10
Language & alphabet 12
Basic vocabulary 13
A - Z of what you need to know 14
Out for the sights
Sofia - an introduction 24
City Centre walk 25
Out of town tour 29
Out to eat
Restaurant listings & reviews 30
Cafes, pubs & bars 36
Expat section 40
The insiders directory 52
Published by Inside & out ltd. All rights reserved
Managing directors: Christine Milner - christine@insidesofia.com, +359 88 486 4820
Paromita Sanatani - editor@insidesofia.com, +359 88 840 8647
Sales & Marketing: Milena Stefanova - sales@insidesofia.com, +359 88 815 1256
All text and photos by Paromita Sanatani and Christine Milner unless stated otherwise.
Design & Prepress: Nelly Lozanova - nelly@flografix.net
www.insidesofia.com, www.inyourpocket.com/bulgaria
Inside & out ltd.
Office: 9 Frityof Nansen St., 5th floor
Print by IFO Design ltd., www.ifodesign.net, t. 02 957 8805
Cover photo by Todor Vlaytchev
'The Fountains of NDK'
We do not assume any responsibility or liability, inferred or otherwise, regarding the products or services being
offered, proposed or advertised by the companies or individuals appearing in this publication. All information deemed
to be correct at the time of going to print.
Sofia - the insiders guide
is one of the publications
officially approved for
free distribution in Sofia
Municipalitys Cultural
Information Centre in
the underpass of the
University.
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Vcar lcadcr,
Welcome to the summer edition we hope our guide will help you make
the most of your stay in Sofia / Bulgaria however short or long.
Traditionally, Sofia empties during July and August, as locals head to the
seaside, therefore the cultural program also winds down at the end of June
and many of the bigger events actually take place at the Black Sea or in
other resorts outside of Sofia. Here we have listed just some of the main
events in Bulgaria during the summer months. You can always find more up to date
information by following us on facebook (scan the QR code on the right with your
smartphone) or surfing over to our website www.inyourpocket.com/bulgaria
Also have a look at our new inyourpocket mini guide destination: Plovdiv.
Many locals and visitors actually really enjoy Sofia during the hot summer months,
free of traffic pollution and crowds. The choice of cafes and restaurants, where
you can seek shelter and refreshment is vast - we have listed the best for you
to choose from. As of 1st June a total indoor smoking ban has come into effect
thus making the all-round dining experience just that little bit better ;-)
If you are a regular to our publication you will also notice the effects of the
economic crisis on our publication. Although funded solely through advertising - we
maintain a clear distinction between advertisers and editorial text so that you can make
your own informed choices. We do however encourage you to support our advertisers as
without them there would be no guide!
Wishing you a lovely summer!
Yours,
Paromita
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!l|duoocr Va`
24th June
Linked to the ancient
rituals of the summer
equinox, it is believed
that on this day winter
starts its long return
journey. It is also the
day of herbs and
herbs collected on
this day are said
to be the most
potent.
1udc lra||
27th June - 1st July 2012
Brasilian cultural festival comes to
Sofia - bringing you live
music, street parades,
cinema projections, art
exhibitions, workshops for
Capoeira (type of martial
art) and Samba and concerts
featuring Lameck and
Sambrazil. Party! Party! Party!
For full program info: www.
facebook.com/tudobrasil or
www.tudo-brasil.com
Linked to the ancient
rituals of the summer
equinox, it is believed
that on this day winter
starts its long return
journey. It is also the
Brasilian cultural festival comes to
Sofia - bringing you live
music, street parades,
cinema projections, art
exhibitions, workshops for
Capoeira (type of martial
art) and Samba and concerts
featuring Lameck and
Sambrazil. Party! Party! Party!
For full program info: www.
facebook.com/tudobrasil or
www.tudo-brasil.com
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www.inyourpocket.com/bulgaria
lnlcrnal|cna| 'lcrl l||o lcl|.a|
29th June - 7th July 2012
Balchik & Varna
The 10th International Short Film Festival In the Palace will be presenting
documentaries that have received various prestigious awards and are documentary
snapshots of the spiritual heritage and undocumented communist past : Cinema
Komunisto, The World According to Ion B., Cooking History. 6 wars 11 recipes
60 361 024 dead, The Desert of Forbidden Art and I Love You.
More details www.inthepalace.com
lclrc.dcn. lclcr
29th June
la.|c.dcn. lau| !la.c|`
30th June
According to the Christian calendar
Petrovden is linked to St.Peter and
St.Paul, disciples of Christ. In the
Bulgarian tradition they are considered
brothers, in some areas even twins.
For this reason the name day of Peter
and Paul are celebrated just one day
apart. Petrovden also coincides with the
beginning of the harvest season and for
this reason people work in the fields for
half the day. Pavlovden is associated with
the protection from fire, lightning and
hailstorms and people should not work, in
particular not light any fires on this day.
'c||a lcc|
7th & 8th July 2012
Vasil Levski Stadium
This 2-day rock festival is now in its third
year and will offer fans the chance to hear
and see live the 1980s rock legends Guns
N Roses, as well as Iggy and the Stooges,
Godsmack, Ugly Kid Joe, Clawfinger, Kaiser
Chiefs and others.
Tickets are on sale through eventim.bg
and their partner stores and cost
60 - 120 BGN.
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la.ar na lcc|
13th - 15th July 2012
Kavarna Stadium, Black Sea Coast
This year the already traditional summer rock
festival in Kavarna on the Black Sea coast will
host some classic bands, and the first day of
the event is dedicated to the late rock legend,
the singer Ronnie James Dio. The stage will belong to Dio Disciples, Glenn Hughes,
Michael Schenker Group, and the Bulgarian band BTR, on Friday 13th July. Saturday
will see concerts by Stryper, Dokken, Big Noize (feat. Sebastian Bach), and local stars
D2 with Dicho. On the last day, Sunday 15th July, the Kavarna stadium will host Lizzy
Borden, Kamelot, Rhapsody, and Bulgarian bands Ahat and Renegat. Tickets cost
100 leva for the three days or 50 leva for one day and can be purchased from the
network of www.eventim.bg.
crclln|l| !Vcq Va`
15th,16th, 17th July
People believe that if during these three
days they do not follow the traditional rules
and instead work in the fields, garden or
home, fire will descend from heaven and
burn down their home and fields.
Va.|d uclla
27th July 2012, 21:00
Nessebar City Stadium
French DJ & house music producer
whose mega hit When love takes over
(with Kelly Rowland) made him a
household name and has
firmly placed him at the
pinnacle of his profession. He is currently
one of the most sought after producers
and ranked no.1 DJ in the world.
Tickets 35 leva www.eventim.bg
'|r|l c| lurqa
3rd - 5th August 2012
Black Sea Coast
Three day rave on the beach at Burgas.
Headlining acts include Busta Rhymes
and Tinie Tempah and nu metal band
Korn (5th August). This year the festival
will be combined with the Solar festival
for electronic music attracting big names
from the scene, like Armin van Buuren
(3rd August), Richie Hawtin (4th August)
and house DJ Mark Knight (5th August).
Already celebrating its 5th anniversary fans
can expect new stages and many more
surprises. Tickets start at 35 leva for one
day at the Solar festival, 60 leva for one
day at the Spirit of Burgas up to 200 leva
for the full 3 day pass to both festivals.
www.eventim.bg, www.spiritofburgas.com
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www.inyourpocket.com/bulgaria
BULGARIAS western-swing
pioneers Lilly Of The West
have just released their
9th studio album Swings
& Heartaches. As the title
suggests the album has two parts. It starts
off with lively, up-tempo swing hits from
the 40s and 50s, featuring two Patsy Cline
hits Gotta lotta rhythm in my soul and
Walkin After Midnight, and one by
Hank Williams, Lovesick Blues, while the
second part (heartaches) brings a change
of mood with beautiful, heartfelt ballads
such as the Johnny Cash/June Carter duet
If I Were A Carpenter and the Everly
Brothers classic Crying in the Rain. Two
traditional Bulgarian folk melodies are
included.
Lilly of the West was formed in Sofia
1996 by Lilly Drumeva. Shortly after
releasing their debut album, they toured
successfully throughout Europe and the
US, winning European and international
music awards. Lilly is a moving spirit in
the European bluegrass and country
music scene, she is a pioneer and leader
in Bulgaria. Her crystal clear voice and
charming personality touches all who
meet and listen to her.
Throughout the summer months you will
be able to catch Lilly of the West giving
live open air performances around Sofias
parks. You can get more up to date
information and buy/download the CD on
their website: www.lillydrumeva.net
lan|c Jatt lcl|.a|
4th - 11th August, Bansko
Already in its 15th year this festival is
the summer highlight in the mountain
resort town of Bansko for all jazz fans.
Participants from around the world
will entertain on the open air stages
of the town, making this a perfect
holiday opportunity. The line up this
year includes Mungo Jerry (In the
summertime)
Programme details and further
information www.bansko-jazz.com
lad aqa
14th August 2012
Vassil Levski Stadium
Lady Gaga will kick off the European leg
of Born this way ball on 14th August
2012 at the Vassil Levski Stadium. No
doubt this concert will bring some life
back into Sofia, as the crowds return
from the seaside to see what this mega
star has to offer!
Tickets 120-200 leva from ticketpro.bg
western-swing
suggests the album has two parts. It starts
6
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15th August
This day is devoted to the death of the Holy Mother of Christ, the
patron saint of motherhood and women, protector of the family
unit. It is a big folk holiday in Bulgaria, not only because it is the
name day of Maria. It is believed that if sick people spend the
night in holy places they will be cured. Offerings are made and
the first fruits of the season; grapes, watermelons as well as small
loaves of bread are blessed in church and distributed for health.

!/uol|cn`. lar|a
15th August
This day is devoted to the death of the Holy Mother of Christ, the
patron saint of motherhood and women, protector of the family
unit. It is a big folk holiday in Bulgaria, not only because it is the
name day of Maria. It is believed that if sick people spend the
night in holy places they will be cured. Offerings are made and
the first fruits of the season; grapes, watermelons as well as small
loaves of bread are blessed in church and distributed for health.
/c||cn|a lcl|.a| c| /rl
30th August - 8th September 2012
Sozopol, Black Sea
Every year (since 1984)
artists, musicians, writers,
poets and actors gather in the beautiful
old town of Sozopol on the Black Sea
coast for a week of music, dance,
theatre, literature and art not only to
preserve and promote Bulgarian culture
but also acknowledge achievements from
other countries. Sozopol during this week
is positively buzzing with creativity and
culture, making a pleasant change from
the usual holiday entertainment.
For more information www.apollonia.bg
l| V|.c
25th September 2012
Arena Armeets
The international divine male performers
will enchant and thrill the audience in
Sofias Arena Armeets with their operatic
vocal renditions of new and classic songs.
Their newest album Wicked Game was
released 2011. Tickets 70 - 130 leva
through the network of www.eventim.bg
30th August - 8th September 2012
lcd Ucl Cl||| lccr
1st September 2012, 20:00
Georgi Asparuhov Stadium
The cult US rock band founded in
the early 80s will be rocking Sofia
on September 1st.
Tickets between 70 - 150 leva from
the network of www.ticketpro.bg
lcnn lra.|lt
30th September 2012
Arena Armeets
Part of his Black and White Europe Tour,
Lenny Kravitz returns to Bulgaria to play
live at the Arena Armeets. In a musical
career spanning over 20 years, Kravitz
has transcended genre, style and race
and has sold 40 million albums worldwide
and won 4 grammy awards.His most
recent album is called Black and White
America.
Tickets from the network of www.
eventim.bg
ADVANCE NOTI CE
Status Quo
18th October 2012
NDK Hall 1, Part of
Music Jam 2012
This will be the first
time in Bulgaria for
the legendary rock band fronted by
Rick Parfitt and Francis Rossi.
Tickets 50 - 120 leva
www.ticketpro.com
Disney on Ice
9th - 11th November 2012
Arena Armeets
www.ticketpro.com
the legendary rock band fronted by
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YCu|lura| Vtouts
Bulgaria Hall
Home to the Sofia Philharmonic Orchestra,
this building dates back to the late 1930s and
comprises of two concert halls; Bulgaria Hall
and the much smaller Chamber Hall.
1 Aksakov St., t. 02 987 76 56
Ticket Office (10.00-13.30, 15.30-18.30)
For more programme details:
www.classicfmsofia.com and www.nsobg.com
National Palace of Culture (NDK)
Built in 1981 to mark the countrys 13th
centennial, it is Sofias most prominent
modern landmark, housing concert halls,
exhibition space, offices and restaurants.
The various halls and foyers are home
to some of the most impressive specially
commissioned contemporary art.
1 Bulgaria Square. Ticket Office: to the left of
the main entrance (Fritjof Nansen St.)
t. 02 9166 2368, www.ndk.bg
Sofia National Opera
Built in 1909, seating 1200, the repertoire is a
mix of internationally recognised operas and
ballets, usually sung in Bulgarian or Italian.
1 Vrabcha St. (off Rakovski St.) t. 02 981 1549
For programme: www.operasofia.bg
Ticket Office 08.30-19.30
National Musical Theatre
It features international operettas and musi-
cals, usually sung in Bulgarian.
100 Vassil Levski Blvd.
(by the Levski monument) t. 02 943 1979
For programme: www.musictheatre.bg
YHustums
Alexander Nevski Cathedral Crypt
Orthodox church art, icons, 4th-19th century
Alexander Nevski Sq.
Working hours: 10.00-17.30, closed Mon.
Archaelogical Museum
Gold and silver treasures, coins, pre historical
monuments as well as thracian treasures from
recent digs
2 Saborna St. t. 02 988 2406
Working hours: 10.00-18.00
Earth and Man Museum
Minerals, giant crystals, semi precious
stones. Enormous crystals from all over the
world, as well as real precious jewels and
examples of metal ore and how metal is
made. Unfortunately the labeling is virtually
nonexistent.
4 Cherni Vruh Blvd. t. 02 865 6639
Working hours: 9.00-17.00, closed Sun&Mon.
Museum of Contemporary Art
2 Cherni Vruh Blvd.
Working hours: 10.00 - 18.00, closed Mon.
Museum of Socialist Art
Paintings, sculptures and memorabilia from
the Socialist era (1944 - 1989)
7 Lachezar Stanchev St., Iztok Area
nearest Metro station: GM Dimitrov
Working hours: 10.00 - 17.30, closed Mon.
Admission 6 BGN.
Children, students, OAPs 3 BGN
National Art Gallery
Bulgarian art, 18th-20th century.
New permanent exhibition.
1 Battenberg Sq. t. 02 980 0093
Working hours: 10.00-17.00, closed Mon.
www.nationalartgallerybg.org
National Ethnographic Museum
Bulgarian folklore, costumes, crafts
1 Battenberg Sq. t. 02 987 4191
Working hours: 10.00-16.00, closed Sat&Sun.
National Gallery for Foreign Art
Van Dyke, Rodin, Picasso, Goya; large
collection of Indian and oriental sculptures;
temporary exhibitions by foreign artists.
19 February St. t. 02 980 7262
Working hours: 11.00-18.00, closed Tue.
www.foreignartmuseum.bg
National History Museum
22,000 exhibits show the development of so-
cial, cultural and political life on Bulgarian soil.
Dont miss out on going to see some of the
amazing recent Thracian gold discoveries.
Vitoshko Lale St, Ring Road, Boyana, t. 02 955 4280
Working hours: 09.30-18.00, closed Mon.
Bus 63 and 111, Marsh Route 21
www.historymuseum.org
9 www.inyourpocket.com/bulgaria
National Military-History Museum
Tanks, planes, weapons, uniforms, medals for
bravery, personal belongings of Levski and
Battenberg, including a lock of Levskis hair.
92 Cherkovna St. t. 02 946 1805
Working hours: 9.00-17.00, closed Mon&Tue.
National Polytechnic Museum
History of technology in Bulgaria. there are
some hologram exhibits.
66 Opalchenska St. t. 02 931 8018
Working hours: 09.00-17.00,
Closed on weekends
Natural History Museum
A collection of stuffed and pickled ani-
mals, skeletons and butterflies as well as
rocks and minerals, and a live reptile
exhibit. Some of the exhibition cases are
so old - that they are a fascination in
themselves.
1 Tsar Osvoboditel Blvd. t. 02 988 5115
Working hours: 9.00-17.00


Sculpture Garden at the MFA
The work of some of the countrys finest
sculptors in the grounds of the Ministry
of Foreign Affairs. The Sculpture garden
is open to the public every Saturday and
Sunday, 10.00-17.00hrs.
Sofia Art Gallery
Bulgarian art & sculptures, contemporary
drawings and photography.
1 Gurko St. (entrance from Battenberg St.)
t. 02 987 2181
Working hours: Tue-Sat: 10.00-18.00
Sun: 11.00-17.00, closed Mon. www.sghg.bg
The Red House
Centre for culture and debate. Nice cafe.
15 Lyuben Karavelov St. t. 02 981 8188
www.redhouse-sofia.org
Union of Architects
Tzentralen Dom na Architekta Exhibitions,
library, cafe and restaurant
11 Krakra St. t. 02 943 8349
www.bularch.org
cu|lura| .cnuc
10
U
nfortunately, all too often the international media
still portrays Bulgaria in a bad light. Those who
spend a little time here trying to understand the
country usually find the positive outweighs the bad.
Beautiful nature, genuine hospitality, excellent wines,
great mountains and beaches, an abundance of min-
eral spas, a lively folklore tradition and many talented
young artists are all things Bulgaria can be proud of.
No wonder so many of us are falling in love with
Bulgaria...
Situated on the Balkan Peninsula,
Bulgaria has borders with Romania to the north, much of it denoted by the River Danube;
Greece and Turkey to the south and south-east, and the former Yugoslav Republic of
Macedonia, and Serbia, to the west. To the east, Bulgaria is flanked by the Black Sea, one
of its biggest assets for summer tourism.
A total of 380 km of coastline offers everything from rugged secluded beaches to fully
developed, highly commercialised resorts, such as Golden Sands.
Add to that Bulgaria's mountain ranges: the Balkans (locally known as Stara Planina) run
out centrally across the country; the Rila (with Mussala, 2925 m, the highest peak of the
region), Pirin and Rhodope ranges, with their charming mountain/ski resorts and unspoilt
national parks, and it is easy to recognise the potential of this country for year-round
recreation.
Bulgaria's land is fertile, producing a large variety of crops such as wheat, corn, barley,
tobacco, potatoes, tomatoes and cucumbers etc. The central plains of Bulgaria are home
to the famous Valley of the Roses which produces a high quality 'attar' much coveted by
global markets.
Bulgaria can also boast the hottest mineral spring in Europe: Sapareva Banya (102C) at
the foot of the Rila Mountains. Overall the country is blessed with approximately 500 min-
eral springs, many thermal, with a vast range of healing properties.
A lot of work and investment, however, is required to capitalise on these assets, rather
than just exploiting them.
llc ccunlr
fepu|al|eo t0061. 7 385 367
Kt||g|eo. Bulgarian Orthodox 82.6%, Muslim 12.2%, Catholic 0.6%, other 4.6%
(Protestant, Gregorian - Armenian, Jewish)
Ilko|c greups. Bulgarian 83.9%, Turkish 9.4%, Roma 4.7%, other 2% (Armenians, Jews,
Wallachians, Greeks, Russians)
Cap|la|. Sofia (1 173 988 citizens)
fr|oc|pa| c|l|ts. Plovdiv (338 302), Varna (320 668), Bourgas (209 479), Rousse (178 435),
Stara Zagora, Pleven, Sliven, Dobrich, Shoumen.
|n|dc |u|gar|a
Summers in Bulgaria tend to be hot and
dry! As anywhere, things can go terribly
wrong with the weather and cold wet
spells are not unheard of. Freak hailstorms
with hailstones, the size of golf balls, are
not uncommon, particularly in and near the
mountains. So far the weather in 2012 has
been far from normal, so who knows what
the summer will bring?
Temperatures in the summer months can
be as high as 35C and people are well
advised to avoid the mid day heat. Siestas
are very popular with locals, especially
when on holiday.
Generally the temperatures in the mountain
resorts are 5-10C lower than in the cities,
making the mountain resorts a popular
escape on weekends.
The weather at the Black Sea is mainly hot,
sunny and dry and generally more stable than
inland, although thunder storms and flash
flooding can also be expected. The Black sea
itself is generally calm and warm, but there
are areas with dangerous undercurrents, so
please take all flag warnings seriously.
llc c||oalc
Average temperatures
June 13 to 26C
July 16 to 30C
August 15 to 30C
Average water temperature
of the Black Sea 19 to 24C
ccunlr > c||malt
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llc |anquaqc
The biggest barrier faced by all visi-
tors to Bulgaria is the language and in
particular the Cyrillic alphabet.
While in the bigger cities and tourist re-
sorts most signs, street names and menus
have translations, and many people speak
another European language (English, Ger-
man, French) a basic grasp of the language
and alphabet (or Russian) are a distinct
advantage but may require some effort.
The Bulgarian language itself is strongly
based on its Slavonic roots, closely related
to Serbo-Croat and similar to Russian. Over
the centuries many foreign words have
crept into the Bulgarian language through
years of Turkish and Russian occupation, but
even nowadays through modern technology
and international business many German,
French and English words have crept into
the language.
In 855 A.D. the brothers Cyril & Metho-
dius developed the first Bulgarian
alphabet (Glagolic) which was said to
more accurately reflect the sounds of the
Bulgarian language (the Greek alphabet
had been used till then) and assist in
their adoption of Christianity.








This alphabet was later simplified to be-
come what is nowadays referred to as the
Cyrillic (or Slavonic) alphabet and used
in Bulgaria, Russia and the Ukraine (with
minor variations). It has thirty letters and is
a phonetic alphabet, the letters are always
pronounced the same. Most confusing is
that although some letters look exactly
the same as Latin letters they are in fact
pronounced differently. A classic example
is the word restaurant. When written in
Cyrillic as such it is often read
as pectopaht by those who grew up with
a Latin alphabet, even after ten years of
living in Bulgaria.

Ee

www.inyourpocket.com/bulgaria
.cca|u|ar
13
Aa
Bb
Vv
Gg
Dd
Ee
'zh'
Zz
Ii
Yy
Kk
Ll
Mm
Nn
Oo
Pp
Rr
Ss
Tt
Uu
Ff
Hh
'ts'
'ch'
'sh'
'sht'
'u'

'yu'
'ya'
GREETINGS
Good Morning dobro utro
Good day dobur den
Good evening dobur vecher
Good night leka nosht
Good Bye dovizhdane
Hi zdraveite
(familiar) zdravei
All the best vsichko hubavo
How are you? Kak ste? ?
(familiar) Kak si? ?
I am fine az sum dobre
Have a nice day priyaten den
QUESTIONS
Who koi K
What kakvo
When koga
Where kude
Why zashto
How kak
BASICS
Yes da
No ne
Maybe mozhe bi
Please ako obichate
You're welcome molya
Thank you blagodarya
(less formal) mersi
Excuse me izvinete
Sorry (forgive me) proshtavaite
I am az sum
You are vie ste (ti si) ( )
I want az iskam
I do not want az ne iskam
Do you speak govorite li angliiski?
English? ?
I do not speak az ne govorya
Bulgarian bulgarski
I don't understand ne razbiram

English Bulgarian spoken Written
14 14
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kCC0HH0vk1I0N
It is best to arrive in Bulgaria with pre-
booked accommodation, as it is often
cheaper than booking the same accom-
modation locally. There have been major
developments in the availability of mod-
ern, clean and well -run private hotels
throughout the country - in particular
popular tourist destinations. In some of
Bulgarias more rural beauty spots (check
www.baatbg.org), private accommoda-
tion with families is available, which is
more basic and usually does not include
private bath facilities.
Sofia itself has an excellent range of
accommodation on offer: from the well
known five/four star brand hotels to
smaller, privately owned hotels, fully
serviced rental apartment buildings and
backpacker hostels (see our directory).
kIKf0K1>
Sofia Airport (www.sofia-airport.bg)
has two terminals, 1&2. Most scheduled
flights now operate out of Terminal 2
(the new one), Terminal 1 being used for
budget and charter flights.
Check carefully with your airline from which
terminal they operate. The new terminal is
modern, bright, clean and absolutely smoke
free (not even smoking lounges!).
There is a multi -storey car park with
over 800 spaces at the new terminal and
although short term they charge 3 BGN
per hour, their long term rates are more
reasonable. OK Supertrans and Taxi -S-
Express are licensed to operate out of the
new terminal. Go to their booths to book
your taxi and avoid the touts or those
taxis loitering outside the terminal build-
ing at all costs!
Several hotels operate a pick up service
on request.
Public transport bus no 84 travels from
Gurko St. in the city centre, via Sofia
University, Orlov Most, Pliska Hotel,
Tsarigradsko Shosse to Terminals 1 and 2
and back again. Tickets for the bus are on
sale in the Arrivals terminal at the news-
paper stand. Luggage bigger than 60 x
60 x 40 cm requires an extra ticket.
There is also a small inexpensive shuttle bus
that operates from Terminal 1 to the railway
station and the international bus station.
> >1k1I0N
Sofias international bus station (http://
tis.centralnaavtogara.bg) is adjacent to
the main railway station. Most buses for
the country and abroad leave from here
and the new clean facilities, which include
a food court, certainly make the idea of a
bus journey more attractive.

CkK fkKKINh
The designation of much of the city centre
as a blue parking zone means that those
who just want to stop for a couple of
hours and dont mind paying should find a
spot. Blue parking zone means vouchers
must be validated and displayed in the
car window. Vouchers (talon za parking
in Bulgarian, 1 BGN per hour) are avail -
15 www.inyourpocket.com/bulgaria 15
able from attendants at parking areas.
If you have a local account with a GSM
operator you can also send an SMS with
your registration number to 1302 and your
bill will be charged for one hour. Check
carefully if you are in a blue zone as you
will be clamped if you fail to display park-
ing vouchers. In the city centre there are
many guarded car parks, both private
and municipal, charging 2-3 BGN per hour
(in front of the Hotel Sheraton, next to
the Halite, behind The National Palace of
Culture).
Should you get clamped you will find
a note in Bulgarian on your windscreen
giving you a telephone number to call.
There is also a reference number for
which you will be asked and the opera-
tor may also want to know what street
you are on and the make of car. In many
areas spider trucks will remove your car
to a compound either near Yuzhen Park or
Oborishte Park. To retrieve your car you
will have to go to the compound. If you
suspect your car may have been towed
away, call t. 02 983 6747 for information.
Ck1I0N
Always advised when travelling to foreign
countries and Bulgaria is no exception.
Unfortunately like in so many other coun-
tries, there are opportunists who prey on
tourists, knowing that they may be carrying
desirable valuables and be slightly disorien-
tated. This can range from simple cheating
on restaurant bills to armed robbery.
The number of incidents of serious crime
against foreigners is relatively low.
see 'Safety'
16 16
|n|dc |u|gar|a
C0HHNICk1I0N>
Postal - Post offices can be found
throughout the country, in most villages,
towns and tourist resorts. You can use
the smaller post offices for buying stamps
and sending mail, although international
parcels need to be sent from the central
post office or larger post offices. Parcels
needs to be sealed at the post office
after a customs inspection. Get a local
to help you if you can - its not easy to
work out by yourself which counter you
have to go to and in which order.
Central Post Office 6 Gen. Gurko St.
Customs Post Office 84 Veslets St.
(near the main railway station). Parcels
arriving from countries outside the EU are
collected from here.
Public Telephone - Telephone calls can
be made from most post offices, or from
public pay phones. You will also find
booths offering cheap internet phone
calls in major resorts and cities.
Mobile phone - Bulgaria has three GSM
operators, M-tel, Vivacom and Globul,
offering coverage across much of the
country. All offer prepaid card packages.
Internet - There is no shortage of Internet
cafes around town. All big hotels and many
of the newer private ones also offer Inter-
net facilities. Many cafes and restaurants
around town offer free wireless internet
connection (WiFi) for their customers.
Free open air wireless access is also
available in the Zaimov Park between
Madrid Blvd. and Yanko Sakazov St.
C0NVIK>I0N>
Bulgaria uses the metric system for
weights and measures:
1 kilometre = 0.62 miles
1 kilogramme = 2.2 pounds
1 pint = 0.568 litres
vI>klIv kCCI>>
Sofia is almost totally inaccessible for
wheel -chair users. Gradual improvements
are being made. A particular problem
is the state of the pavements, which are
not only cracked and full of un-covered
man-holes, but also frequently blocked
by cars. Many public buildings are
adapting for wheelchair access which
new business centres already have.
vKINKINh Nk1IK
Tap water is safe to drink but not always
pleasant in taste or appearance. Bulgar-
ia's vast supplies of mineral water are
widely available in 0.5 litre and 1.5 litre
bottles. They are very tasty and not
expensive.
vKIVINh
Depending on your previous driving
experience, driving in Bulgaria may seem
a little harrowing at first. There is, how-
ever, no need to feel daunted as long as
one drives defensively and sticks to the
rules.
Many local drivers are either arrogant
and aggressive or bumbling and inse-
cure. (Try to avoid confrontations, as
these could get nasty!)
Visitors to Bulgaria may drive using their
national license, as long as it complies
with international standards. It is advis-
able, however, to carry an international
license.
Legislation is now in place to make fining
and the withdrawal of licenses of all EU
citizens possible.
Bulgaria is gradually making progress in
building motorways to the main cities of
Varna and Bourgas, although completion
is not to be expected before end 2012.
Overall the quality of the country's major
17 www.inyourpocket.com/bulgaria 17
a-t =lal cu nccd lc |nc=
roads has much improved in recent years,
but be prepared for repair works which
can cause confusing detours and delays.
Petrol service stations are plentiful in
both cities and along major routes. Most
offer clean toilet and refreshment facili -
ties. Fuel in Bulgaria is lead free and avail -
able in the following octane levels: 92, 95
and 98. Road signs follow international
standards. Major destinations and routes
are signposted in Cyrillic and Latin letters,
often however whole signboards have
disappeared or are hidden behind bushes
so it is possible to miss a turn off!
According to Bulgarian law seat belts
must be worn by ALL passengers, mobile
phones can only be used with 'hands-
free' sets, and the legal alcohol limit is
0.5 pro mil. All cars must carry a first aid
kit, fire extinguisher and reflective jacket.
Speed limits for cars are 50km/h (30
mph) inside the city limits, 90km/h
(55mph) outside cities and 130 km/h
(80mph) on motorways unless indicated
otherwise.
Police may stop you to check your docu-
ments (you must carry them on you at all
times!) or for committing an offence such
as speeding, not wearing a seat belt etc.
They are instructed to identify themselves
by name. There are many notorious police
traps around the country. Oncoming mo-
torists tend to warn you by flashing their
headlights.
Over 30 speed trap cameras have been
installed in cities and across the country,
so watch the behaviour of local road us-
ers carefully. If they all conspicuously slow
down you can be sure there is a speed
trap up ahead.
Should you be unlucky enough to be
caught, you will be issued an akt - a
document stating the offence, which you
have to sign. You then have seven days
within which to pay your fine by bank.
The document is in Bulgarian and English.
If you do not agree, you have 30 days
to protest the fine. Do not give in to
the temptation to buy yourself off with
a bribe as its against the law. Generally
the traffic police are friendly and polite
and it is recommended that you remain
likewise. Getting into an argument will
only make matters worse for you.
In the event of an accident the traffic
police (KAT) should be called (t. 165, 02
982 2723) and an accident report will be
filed. This is essential for any insurance
claims. If the damage is minor, like a bro-
ken light, the matter can now be settled
between parties without the long wait for
the traffic police.
Road assistance-24 hour service
t. 02 91 146, Check with your car hire com-
pany for arrangements in the event of a
breakdown.
Vignettes/road tax
There is a road tax for most major roads,
outside the main town areas. It applies to
all roads marked vignette.
For local cars up to 8 seats, the annual tax,
valid from 1st January till 31st December,
is 67 BGN (34 EUR for foreign registered
cars). One can also buy vignettes valid
for shorter periods of time; 25 BGN per
month or 10 BGN per week (13 and 5 EUR
respectively). Available on sale from petrol
stations across the country as well as at
border crossings, post offices, branches
of DZI Bank, the fine for non-compliance
ranges between 100 - 200 BGN.
IlIC1KICI1{
Bulgaria operates on 220 volt using the
continental standard two-pin plug.
18 18
|n|dc |u|gar|a
h0H0>IKklI1{
Bulgarians are not very open about the
subject and homosexuals tend to keep a
low profile. There are only a few gay bars
and discos in Sofia.
h0>fI1klI1{
Bulgarians can overwhelm with hospital-
ity. If you are invited to someone's home,
here are a few things to remember that
may be different to your own country's
customs. Do not go empty handed - if you
are invited it is customary to take some
flowers or wine or other small gesture.
With flowers remember they should be an
odd number of stems (even numbers are
only for funerals). Many Bulgarian families
remove their shoes at the door. Of course
they will not allow you as their visitor to
do this, but if weather conditions are par-
ticularly bad you can always pre-empt any
embarrassing situation by bringing along a
pair of clean shoes to slip on.
Most importantly remember that shaking
your head means yes and nodding means
no. It can cause great confusion and it is
best always to say the word.
When complimenting the looks of a child,
people may make a couple of spitting
sounds which according to superstition
should prevent a jinx.
HIvIk
Obviously most of the media are Bulgarian
language and focus on Bulgarian issues.
There is limited access to local news in
foreign languages, especially regarding
printed publications.
Bulgarisches Wirtschaftsblatt: A monthly
German language newspaper giving a
summary of news and profiles of local
companies.
Foreign newspapers and magazines are
available through Bulgarpress from news-
stands within the main hotels and also at
various newsstands in the centre of Sofia.
Electronic Media
www.sofiaglobe.com is Bulgarias newest
English-language news and features web-
site by a team of experienced journalists
well known to the market.
novinite.com is a popular website in English
providing local and international news in a
lighter magazine - style format. You can sub-
scribe to daily and weekly news bulletins.
TV
Bulgarian National Television (BNT), Btv
(part of the Murdoch empire) and Nova
Televisiya are the three main nationally li-
censed channels. There is also a multitude
of Bulgarian cable stations. Cable TV of-
fers access to many international channels.
RADIO
Bulgarian National Radio has two pro-
grammes; Horizont 103.0 MHz FM and
Hristo Botev 92.8 MHz, which broadcast
solely in Bulgarian. (Frequencies vary
across the country).
There is a vast choice of commercial radio
stations, covering all music tastes.
Weekday evenings at 19:00 there is a
short bulletin of Bulgarian news in English
on Radio Sofia FM 95.4
HIvICkl IHIKhINCII>
Depending on the nature of the medi-
cal emergency and ones insurance cover,
there are several options regarding the
type of help you may wish to seek. For
minor ailments and problems, we can
recommend the excellent level of service at
the private Vita medical centre and Tokuda
Hospital. There are other private health
19 www.inyourpocket.com/bulgaria 19
a-t =lal cu nccd lc |nc=
centres dotted around the city.
The main state-run emergency hospital for
Sofia is the Pirogov Hospital at 21 General
Totleben Blvd and the medical staff there
is generally acknowledged to be of a very
high standard. Most serious accidents are
referred directly there, though patients
may be taken by ambulance to one of the
many specialist state hospitals depending
on their affliction. In recent years there has
been much talk of the inefficiency of the
ambulance service and one cannot rely
on an ambulance arriving in time. A viable
alternative is the private Tokuda Hospital,
whose ambulance service can be called on
t. 02 403 4150.
Conditions in state-run hospitals vary: some
may be newly built, have been revamped or
offer VIP rooms for those who can pay, oth-
ers may be shockingly run down with ques-
tionable standards of hygiene. Doctors and
admin staff can be rude and unpleasant and
it is difficult for foreigners to understand the
rules. The parallel universe of paying under
the table for various medical treatments also
appears to be well entrenched in some hos-
pitals. This is why the private hospitals and
clinics are becoming increasingly popular.
H0NI{ IKChkNhI
Money can be safely exchanged at most
banks and also at exchange bureaus, al-
though not all are reputable.
Hotels and airports tend to give slightly
lower rates. Although exchange rates fluctu-
ate on a day to day basis, for orientation
purposes you can assume the following rates:
1 Euro = 1.95 BGN (fixed)
1 US Dollar = 1.57 BGN (fluctuating)
1 Pound Sterling = 2.45 BGN (fluctuating)
H0NI{
1lc nal|cna| currcnc |
|nc=n a |c.a !|ura|`
Cnc |c. | oadc u c| 1UU
lcl|n||
The following coins are available: 1, 2, 5,
10, 20, 50 stotinki and 1 lev
The following notes are available: 2, 5,
10, 20, 50, 100 leva (BGN)
(study illustrations above)
Beware: Only exchange money in reputable
places and spend a little time familiarising
yourself with the local currency.
Most locals do not usually bother with the small
coins and shop staff take the liberty of round-
ing up the amount (more often up than down)
If this offends you, ask firmly and politely for
your change.
20 20
|n|dc |u|gar|a
0KhkNI>Iv CKIHI
Organised crime in Bulgaria is not much dif-
ferent from anywhere else in the world and
does not generally affect law abiding citizens.
fK0>1I11I>
What at first glance may appear to be a
desperate young woman flagging you down
for help on the roadside, usually turns out
to be a prostitute. Prostitution itself is not
illegal, though pimping is, and after brief
clean-up operations - it appears not much
has changed.
flIC h0lIvk{>
1st, 2nd January - New Years Holiday
3rd March - National Holiday
13th April 2012 - Good Friday
16th April 2012 - Easter Monday
1st May - May Holiday
6th May - St. Georges Day, Day of the
Bulgarian Army
24th May - Day of Slavonic Literacy & Culture
6th September (7th September also non-
working) - Day of Reunification - 1885
22nd September - Bulgarian Independence Day
24th, 25th, 26th December - Christmas
Depending on which weekday the public
holidays fall, the government may declare
an additional working day as a bridging
holiday, expecting people to work a Sat-
urday in return! Extra working Saturdays in
2012: 29th September, 15th December
flIC 1KkN>f0K1
Trams, trolley buses and buses cover the
whole of the city, including the outskirts.
They are, however, mostly old and
overcrowded. Taxis are cheap and may be
a better option. Sofia has an underground,
which now runs from the East (Mladost) to
the West (Lyulin) via the city centre (fat
red line on the map below). It is fast, clean,
efficient and modern. Two further stations
opened just recently extending the line as
far as Metro Cash & Carry / International
Expo Centre on Tsarigradsko Shosse.
The expansion of the underground is now
in its second phase (blue line on the map
below) which will continue causing major
disruption to the general traffic for the
foreseeable future.
Bus, trolley bus and tram tickets must be
bought from kiosks prior to boarding and
validated on the bus or tram. Look for the
punching devices on the wall. Insert ticket
and punch. Most trams and trolley buses
now have ticket machines from which you
can buy a ticket that you do not need
to punch. The ticket is only valid for the
journey on that particular tram/bus, if you
change - you will need to punch/buy a
new ticket. Each ticket costs 1 BGN, or
you could buy a booklet of 10 for 8 BGN.
Daily, weekly and monthly travel passes are
available. Metro tickets also cost 1 BGN
per journey and can be bought from the
metro station cash desks.
21 www.inyourpocket.com/bulgaria
a-t =lal cu nccd lc |nc=
keep your valuables in the hotel safe.
You should be aware that crossing the road
in Bulgaria can be something of a challenge.
Pedestrians are expected to only use marked
crossings, drivers are not however educated
to give the pedestrian right of way! Most
traffic lights allow the cars turning right
through at the same time as pedestrians,
and unfortunately many of the cars do not
see fit to stop. There is safety in numbers,
of course, so if you see a crowd, go with it.
Zebra crossings give the pedestrian no rights
at all, leaving you with the choice of stepping
out in front of the cars and hoping they will
stop, or waiting for a gap in the traffic.

>CkH>
The most common scam used to be money
exchange. Although they have reduced in
number in recent years, money changers
still hang around the resorts in high season.
You should NEVER change money with
anyone who stops you on the street.
You will always be cheated and it will be
your own fault if it happens.
Generally we no longer recommend exchange
bureaus as most banks nowadays give equally
good exchange rates with better service and
without the risk. There are branches of reputa-
ble banks all over the country.
Foreigners are often overcharged at res-
taurants and cafes, prices on the English
menu being up to three times that on the
Bulgarian. Also check your bill carefully, as
extra items may have been added, espe-
cially if you are a bigger group.
Beware of nightclubs where prices are
often much higher than you would expect
especially if you agree to buy drinks for the
local girls that come and join you at the ta-
ble. You will not be allowed to leave with-
out settling your bill and we have heard
KIC{ClINh
Large colourful containers collecting glass,
plastic and paper can be seen in various
districts around the city and also in popular
tourist destinations. Most containers have
already been vandalised or are just filled
with household rubbish. The containers at
supermarkets are a better bet for those
serious about recycling. Old clothes and
scrap metal can be left next to bins where
it will be collected.
Batteries for recycling can now be depos-
ited in special collection containers at the
following stores across the country: Globul,
Metro, Mr. Bricolage, Handy, and Kodak
photo studios. www.ubarecycling-bg.org
>kfI1{
Bulgarians constantly lament the level of
crime in Sofia, and yet to many foreigners
used to European capitals, Sofia appears
to be a safe city. The most frequent crimes
here are: pick-pocketing; mugging; car
theft. You should use your common sense
when it comes to walking around the city
at dusk or night. Keep to well-lit areas,
do not walk across parks in the dark, and
avoid lonely areas even in daytime. It
makes sense not to walk around displaying
new or expensive items.
Pickpockets are most active in the city
centre and unfortunately they lurk in the
places most popular with foreigners, who
offer the richest pickings. Beware of leaving
your hand bags hanging on the back of your
chair in pubs and restaurants. On the streets
a group of several well-dressed women (not
necessarily Roma) may crowd you at the ex-
act moment when you need to concentrate
your attention on some other task, such as
crossing the road, entering a shop or public
transport, or dealing with a small child. Best
22 22
|n|dc |u|gar|a
stories where the situation has become
quite aggressive and unpleasant.
>h0ffINh
Shopping in Bulgaria has come a long
way in recent years and there is plenty to
choose from at prices not dissimilar to other
countries. Bulgarian manufactured products
still represent excellent value for money.
Most of the bigger cities now have modern
shopping centres or malls, but also the
smaller cheerful street stalls in tourist areas
are very attractive to visitors. Sofia has
several larger malls and countless smaller
retail centres with a good mix of interna-
tional brand names and local shops.
TZUM Tzentralen Universalen Magasin,
corner of Dondukov and Maria Louisa Blvd.
CCS, City Centre Sofia, Arsenalski Blvd.
Mall of Sofia on Stamboliiski Blvd. has its
niche in the western end of the city and apart
from the usual mix of western shops you will
find here the only Imax cinema in Bulgaria.
Sky city, 52 Kosta Lulchev St., Geo Milev
district
Princess mall, Mladost 4 area (behind Hit
supermarket)
The (on Sitnyakovo Blvd.)
has an excellent selection of shops, many
from the high streets of Austria and Ger-
many, and far too many to check them all
out in one visit. The good news is that you
are bound to find what you are looking for.
There is a large food court, several cafes,
restaurants and an ice cream parlour, chil-
drens play areas inside and outside, and
a regular programme of special entertain-
ment and events, but otherwise no other
entertainment.
The Mall, Tsarigradsko Shosse, combines
shopping and leisure activities.
Obviously visitors to Sofia shouldnt miss
the opportunity to explore Sofias other
main shopping areas to get a clearer over-
view of Bulgarian products, and maybe
discover a real gem or two.
For tourists the flea market in front of
the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral is
particularly enticing (but beware prices are
accordingly high)
Shops in Sofia are generally open from
09.00 - 18.00 or 10.00 - 19.00 Monday -
Saturday. More and more shops are
now also open on Sundays although with
slightly shorter hours. Small shops might
close for a lunch break.
Most shops these days accept local debit
cards and international credit cards but
if not, you can usually find an ATM (cash
point) that will give cash advances against
credit cards.
Shops tend to stock small sizes only, any-
one of slightly larger than average build will
have difficulty finding ready made clothes in
their sizes. Bulgarian manufactured clothes
have their own sizes so always try before
you buy (see table on page 49).
Customer service is very inconsistent in this
country. If you are not sure about something
always check the possibility for exchange or
refunds before buying. Most shops are re-
luctant to do either unless the item is faulty.
If you feel your consumer rights have been
infringed (e.g. if someone refuses to refund
you or exchange something, or you experi-
ence corruption in state administration) you
have the right to complain to the European
Consumer Centre - Bulgaria, whose pur-
pose it is to help EU consumers who have a
problem in Bulgaria or Bulgarians who have a
problem in EU. t. 02 986 7672, ecc.bulgaria@
kzp.bg. There is also a downloadable com-
plaint form on their site http://ecc.kzp.bg/
23 www.inyourpocket.com/bulgaria 23
a-t =lal cu nccd lc |nc=
though the site is frustratingly only in Bulgar-
ian. The form is, however, also in English.
>H0KINh
Bulgaria is a nation of heavy smokers,
and locally-produced cigarettes are a lot
cheaper than those in the West. Till recently
very little consideration has been shown
towards the non-smoker but as of 1st June
2012 smoking indoors in all public places has
been banned i.e. all work places, restau-
rants, bars, public transport (please tell the
bus drivers ;-), all hotels, near administrative
buildings, day care centers and schools,
playgrounds and at outdoor events.
1kKI>
Taxi fares in Sofia have finally been regulated
(May 2011) and a maximum fare imposed!
This is currently 1.30 BGN daytime and 1.60
BGN nighttime. Fares are displayed clearly
on the back window of the cab as well as
on the dashboard. All taxis are yellow and
are generally fairly new, well-kept vehicles,
though you may occasionally get the odd
unkempt one. Smoking is prohibited but
despite this you will find that some taxi driv-
ers smoke while waiting for a customer; if it
bothers you then ask them to put out their
cigarette. All taxis should have the name
and contact number of the company clearly
displayed on the dashboard as well as the ID
number of the driver, enabling you to make
a complaint should you wish to.
Despite the cap on fares, rogue taxi drivers still
hang around the airport and tourist attractions.
1ICK>
Beware of ticks in the summer months.
Should you discover a tick on your body,
seek medical advice.
1IffINh
Tipping is generally expected by the wait-
ing staff in restaurants, cafes and bars. Taxi
drivers expect the fare to be rounded up
and hairdressers also accept tips. At petrol
stations the attendants who fill your tank and
clean your windows will hope for some small
gratuity. Some restaurants automatically add
a service charge, so check the bill first.
10IlI1>
There are not many decent public toilets
in Sofia. Clean public toilets can be found
in most shopping centres (free of charge).
Recently chemical toilets have appeared in
some of the parks and at public events but
these are really not to be recommended. If
you are really desperate you could use the
toilets in the many cafes, restaurants and
hotels around town. We have rarely been
turned away if asking politely beforehand.
VI>k>
EU citizens are able to come and go freely
from Bulgaria (even just on their ID) and now
enjoy far greater freedoms especially regard-
ing employment, settling and buying property.
Citizens of the USA, Canada, Australia, New
Zealand, Japan, Israel and several other
countries with reciprocal agreement (check
with the Bulgarian Embassy), can spend
up to 90 days within a six month period,
in Bulgaria visa free on a valid international
passport, but must register with police (48
Maria Luiza Blvd.) if not staying in a hotel
and spending more than 5 nights in Bulgaria.
Nationals of countries not included on this
list, require written, notarised invitations
from Bulgarian citizens or organisations
before applying for their visas.
24 24
cul |cr llc |qll
'
ofia became the capital of Bulgaria as
recently as 1879, usurping the position
from Veliko Turnovo after six hundred
years. Sofia was felt to possess a strategic
location and the change of capital marked
the end of Bulgarias dark ages under Otto-
man rule.
When it became capital, Sofia was a mud-
dy, underdeveloped town of just 12,000
inhabitants, something akin to a large,
open-air market. Historians talk of how the
citys inhabitants attended the first royal
ball dressed in woollen socks and baggy
Turkish pants. The citys historic buildings
date from the turn of the century up until
the 1930s, when there was a rush to bring
the city up to date and turn it into a mod-
ern European capital.
Evidence has been found that Sofia was
inhabited as early as 7000 years ago. Thra-
cian and Roman remains can still be seen
dotted around the city: in the underpass in
front of the presidency, behind the Military
Club, and behind the Sheraton hotel. Sofias
thermal springs meant that it was always an
attractive place for settlement. There are
springs in the city centre, Gorna Banya,
Bankya, Knyazhevo and Ovcha Kupel.
Under Thracian, and later Roman, rule Sofia
was known as Serdika; from the middle of
the 6th century the Byzantines renamed it
Triaditsa and from the 9th century onwards
during the First Bulgarian Kingdom it took
on the Slavonic name of Sredets. The city
finally became known as Sofia from the
beginning of the 15th century taking on the
name Sofia (Wisdom), from St. Sofia church.
Sofias coat of arms was designed in 1900.
The citys motto Raste no ne staree (grows
but does not age) was added a year later.
During World War II, Sofia was badly
bombed by allied air raids in the early months
of 1944. Over 3000 buildings were totally
destroyed and another 9000 damaged.
View to the National Assembly with Alexander Nevski Cathedral in the background
25 www.inyourpocket.com/bulgaria 25
c|l ccnlrc =a||
Sofias main sights
are nearly all
located within
a short walking
distance of each
other and can
easily be seen
within a few
hours, depending
on how much
time you decide
to spend at each.
It is best to start
from Narodno
Sabranie Square
(Nearest under-
ground station -
University)
In the middle of
the Square sits the
impressive Tsar Os-
voboditel monument
(1), potraying the Russian Tsar Alexander II
on horseback.It was erected as a gesture of
gratitude to the Russian Tsar and his troops
who finally liberated Bulgaria in 1878 from
Ottoman rule. The statue itself is a 14 metre
high bronze by the Italian sculptor Arnoldo
Zocchi. Not far from the monument you will
see the golden domes of a far grander ges-
ture of the nations gratitude. To get to the
Cathedral, make your way past the beautiful
white parliament building, referred to as the
National Assembly (2) (Narodno Sabranie).
The National Assembly was built in three
stages between 1884 - 1928, by a Bulgarian
architect who had been living and working in
Vienna.
The slogan on the facade above the entrance
Obedinenieto Pravi Silata, loosely translat-
ed means United we are strong. This is the
scene of regular public protests and back in
1997 the building was actually stormed and
damaged, leading to the eventual downfall of
the then ruling Socialist party.
Alexander Nevski Cathedral (3) is without
a doubt the most spectacular building in
Sofia. Named after Alexander Nevski, the
patron saint of Tsar Alexander II, who is
also referred to as the Tsar Osvoboditel
(Liberator). Built between 1882 - 1912 in
the Neo Byzantine style, typical for Russian
churches in the 19th century, the cathedral
is 76 metres long and 53 metres wide and
is said to hold up to 7000 people. Some of
Russia and Bulgarias best artists of the time
worked on the interior with its five aisles
and three altars. Sienna and Carrera marble
in the entrance area, stained glass windows,
Venetian mosais and dramatic murals such as
The Lord God Sabbath in the main cupola,
and Judgement Day above the exit, onyx
and alabaster columns on the thrones, all
add to the richness of the interior without
making it in any way gaudy.
The Crypt (4) below the cathedral is part of
the National Art Gallery, housing the Old
Bulgarian Art Collection, depicting Ortho-
dox Church Art from its origins in the 4th
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century through to the 19th century National
Revival period. The focus is predominantly
on icon painting with some 300 permanent
exhibits including an altar cross and a pair of
altar doors from the Rila monastery. Just a
stones throw from Alexander Nevski is an-
other important church: the contrast in style
could not be starker.
St. Sofia (5) is the oldest Eastern Orthodox
church in Sofia and after major restoration and
renovation works, it reopened to the public
about ten years ago and once again plays
an important role in the day to day rituals of
Sofianites. It is in fact this church that gave its
name to the present day capital back in the
14th century.
The simple red brick church dates back to
the 5th/6th century when it was the site of
Serdicas necropolis. During the Ottoman
yoke it was turned into a mosque, but after
an earthquake in 1818 toppled the minaret
and another some 40 years later killed the
Imams two sons, it was abandoned and
restored as a church after liberation.
Outside St.Sofia burns the eternal flame of
the unknown soldier (6), set up in 1981 to
honour the nations war casualties. Across
from there is Sofias flea market of sorts (7) -
of course aimed directly at the tourists
heading for the Cathedral.
From here turn left onto Rakovski St., head-
ing towards Tsar Osvoboditel Bld. Also
referred to as the Yellow Brick Road (Noth-
ing to do with Dorothy and the Wizard of
Oz, the yellow bricks were in fact a present
from the Austrian Emperor Franz Joseph to
his cousin Prince Ferdinand of Saxe-Coburg
in 1907).
On the corner is the Military Club (8), an
attractive Renaissance-style building which
in its hey day (prior to 9th September 1944)
was the venue for many a splendid ball, at-
tended by royalty and Sofias elite and now
once again is a popular venue for functions
and cultural events.
On the other corner, with its five golden
onion domes, sits the small and beautifully
ornate Russian Church (9). Built from 1912 -
1914, to appease a Russian diplomat afraid to
worship in Bulgarian churches, the church is
named after St. Nikolai the miracle maker. To
this day wishes are written on slips of paper
and placed in the wooden box by the white
marble sarcophagus of Bishop Serafim (1881 -
1950), who is buried in the crypt. Although
never canonized he is revered by many
Bulgarians as a saint. Continuing along the
yellow brick road towards Battenberg Square
you will pass on your right the former Royal
Palace (10), nowadays home to the National
Art Gallery (currently closed for repairs until
Spring 2012) and the Ethnographic Museum.
Built in 1873, it was the residence of the
ruling governor during the Ottoman occupa-
tion, with administrative offices and police
headquarters on the lower floors. It was
here that national hero Vasil Levski was tried
and sentenced to death. After liberation it
was the first building to be refurbished in
contemporary Viennese style, and it became
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the seat of the Bulgarias first post liberation
monarch, Kniaz Alexander Battenberg.
The art gallery, established in 1948, has over
12,000 examples of Bulgarian art from 19th
and 20th century in its funds, of which ap-
proximately 400 are on permanent display,
including works by Zahari Zograf, Tsanko
Lavrenov and sculptor Andrei Nikolov.
The Ethnographic Museum in the eastern
wing gives an insight to Bulgarian folklore
and traditions. Although started in 1878,
many valuable exhibits were lost during the
bombing in 1944 and probably the most
interesting exhibit is the beautifully carved
wooden ceiling.
Walking through the City Garden in front
of the palace you will reach the beautiful
Ivan Vazov National Theatre (11). On a nice
day the area outside is usually buzzing with
stylish street cafes that give Sofia a metro-
politan feel. You will of course be paying
more for your coffee here but it is worth it,
as you take in the 40 metre high faade,
fronted by a large pediment, supported
on six white marble columns and depicting
Apollo and the muses, behind which rise
twin towers crowned with sculptures of the
goddess Nike. Built in 1907, the interior was
destroyed by fire in 1923, and was restored
again six years later.
Continuing back up along the yellow brick
road past the National Bank you will come
to the Archaeological Museum (12) (2
Saborna St.) This is the oldest museum in
Bulgaria, and has been in its present location
the Bujuk (Big) Mosque since 1899. The
mosque itself dates back to the end of the
15th century. It recently underwent major
restoration, reopening in 2000 and is with-
out a doubt one of the most charming and
interesting museums in Sofia. Its collection
includes treasures, coins and pre-historical
monuments from Bulgarian soil through An-
tiquity and the Middle Ages. The highlights
include the Valchitran gold treasure from the
14th century BC and the original floor mosaic
from St. Sofia Church as well as some of the
more recent Thracian gold discoveries.
Just beyond the museum is the Presidency -
the colourfully attired guards are always worth
a snapshot - and in the courtyard behind sits
the St. George Rotunda (13) among the exca-
vations of ancient Roman ruins. This charming
round red brick church dates back to the
4th century (although it did not become a
church till the 6th century) and is Sofias oldest
preserved building. Having undergone major
restoration work, it was reopened to the pub-
lic in 1998 for the first time in 70 years. Three
layers of frescoes can still be seen, the oldest
dating back to the 10th century. Nowadays it
often hosts small art exhibits.
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At the opposite end of the courtyard you
will find the Sheraton Hotel.
In front of the hotel is St. Nedelya Church
(14), situated on the square of the same
name. Built at the end of the 19th century,
it is the direct successor of several smaller
churches from mediaeval times and lies
directly above the crossroads of ancient
Serdica. In 1925 it was largely destroyed in
a bomb blast assassination attempt on Tsar
Boris III in which over 200 people were killed
although the intended victim was spared. Its
central location makes it the focal point for
locals and you may well be able to observe
a wedding, christening or funeral.
In the underpass directly infront of the TZUM
Retail Centre, nestled among the cafes and
shops, is the tiny church of Sveta Petka Sa-
mardzhiiska (15), built in the 14th century.
Behind TZUM at the beginning of Maria
Luisa Blvd is Sofias only mosque, the Banya
Bashi mosque (16), built in 1576 by Hadzhi
Mimar Sonah. Banya, the Bulgarian word
for bath, refers to the adjacent magnificent
Public Baths (17) that were completely der-
elict and are currently being painstakingly
restored to their former splendour. In front
of the Baths are mineral springs where Sofi-
anites often form long queues to fill up their
plastic bottles with free mineral water.
Crossing over Maria Luisa Blvd you will see
the beautifully restored Halite (18), the
former food market built in 1909. Once again
the main focus of the shops inside is food,
with stalls selling fresh fish and special dietary
foods, as well as a variety of other shops.
From here you have several options.
To the south side you can take a stroll along
pedestrianised Pirotska Street, with its cafes
and shops, or on the north side you can
walk along Exarh Josif Street to Sofias syna-
gogue (19) another beautiful building reno-
vated in recent years. Built between 1905
and 1909 by Austrian architect Gruenanger,
the building is a smaller replica of the
Sephardic synagogue in Vienna, which was
destroyed during the second world war.
If after that you still feel you have the en-
ergy, you might like to take a stroll through
the backstreets to the Zhenski Pazar (20)
(Ladies Market). This is Sofias biggest and
cheapest market where you can find every-
thing from fruit and vegetables to household
products including Bulgarian ceramics. It is
always busy and extra caution regarding
your valuables is advised!
ln|dcr l|

Why not join Free Sofia Tour on one of
their free tours around the city?
11am or 6pm outside the law courts on
Vitosha Blvd.
29 www.inyourpocket.com/bulgaria 29
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Boyana Church
National History Museum
1k|s leur lakts eu eul e[ leuo le lkt
[eel e[ V|leska meuola|o, a p|tasaol
tscapt [rem lkt c|l.
The sights can be reached by public trans-
port but they are not interconnected, so it
may be better to hire a taxi for the tour.
Included on UNESCOs World Cultural Herit-
age List, the Boyana Church is considered
one of Bulgarias most significant historical
treasures. Dating back to the 11th century
it has undergone major restoration work.
Built in three stages (11th, 13th and 19th
century), the frescoes dating back to 1259
are considered a remarkable example of
realistic art from that era.
At the nearby museum, visitors can get a
more detailed insight into the remarkable
history of this church.
As you head back towards town, look for
the signs to the National History Museum,
spectacularly set at the foot of the moun-
tain in part of the former dictator Todor
Zhivkovs residence.
22,000 exhibits show the development of
social, cultural and political life on Bulgarian
soil. From the first prehistoric settlements
through to the National Revival Period and
the Bulgarian State 1878-1945; covering the
Greeks, Romans, First Bulgarian Kingdom in
the Middle Ages and the Byzantines.
Among the most spectacular exhibits
are the unique gold treasures from Pan-
agyurishte and the Thracian silver from
Rogozen, as well as silver and bronze
jewellery from the Bronze Age.
30 30
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hose restaurants listed in this section have been tried and tested by the expatriate
community and are genuine recommendations.
They are listed in alphabetical order. This is by no means an exhaustive list. New restau-
rants are constantly opening, some need a little time to establish themselves. There are
only a few specialised cuisine restaurants, many do not survive for long as Bulgarians appear to
be conservative in their tastes and still prefer their own national or Mediterranean cuisine.
There is a slightly irritating habit of making exotic cuisine more palatable to Bulgarian tastes,
which means that the connoisseur may be horrified to come across watered down curries or
more recently something known as avtorsko sushi (authors sushi). This includes your sushi be-
ing smothered in cream cheese and covered in a wasabi mayonnaise sauce! You can be sure that
the places we list here as Indian or Japanese cuisine - do not do that!
Eating out in Sofia is no longer the value for money experience it once was. Unfortunately far
too many of the restaurants are inconsistent in both quality of cuisine and service.
Restaurants tend to open around 11.00am and stay open throughout the day till around midnight.
Those listed as NEW are new to the insiders guide, map references have been added for your
convenience.
In a bid to beat the financial crisis most restaurants now offer daily lunch specials at very competi-
tive rates, so if you are on a budget but still enjoy eating out - now is your chance to try some of
the better restaurants.
A LOOSE INDICATION OF PRICE PER
PERSON FOR A THREE COURSE MEAL
EXCLUDING ALCOHOLIC DRINKS:
$$$$$ Above 60 BGN
$$$$ Up to 60 BGN
$$$ Up to 40 BGN
$$ Up to 30 BGN
$ Under 20 BGN
Nerlk |tar|og |o m|od.
- tips should be roughly 10% of the bill. Do check to make sure a service charge hasnt
already been added.
- Check your bill carefully! There are still many cases of unwitting foreigners being overcharged.
- there is some confusion as to what order meals are served in, some restaurants serve
food as it becomes ready. Others stick strictly to the rules so that the person who is only
eating a main course has to wait till everyone has finished with their salad and starter be-
fore it arrives. Make it clear when you would like to receive your food.
- Check whether your meal comes with garnitura (side dish) or whether you need to order
it separately.
- Food tends to be served warm rather than piping hot.
New smoking rules came into
force on 1st June 2012 com-
pletely banning indoor smok-
ing in all restaurants, bars and
cafes. Although many restaurant owners
are still grumbling about the potential loss
of business they may well be surprised
to see that the negative effect is minimal.
Time will tell ;-)
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33 chairs
E7
14 Prof. Assen Zlatarov St.
$$$$, Italian, courtyard
The courtyard offers a tranquil shelter on a
warm summers day and the menu is fresh
and Italian. Daily specials.
Adis Cook & Book
C5
31 Budapest St.
$$$, International, Garden
Simply an enchanting venue - especially
for those special occasions; something
in between a restaurant, bookstore and
someones home. Open for lunch and dinner
(12:00 - 23:00) bookings are recommended.
Annette
F4
27 Angel Kunchev St., t. 02 980 4098
$$$, Moroccan, Courtyard
Enjoy the lovely decked courtyard, and
genuine Moroccan cuisine, based on original
recipes from the owners mother. Salad
starters are presented on a tray from which
you can make your selection.
Art club Museum
D4
2 Saborna St., t. 02 980 6664
$$, International, Terrace
The prominent location right next to the
Archaeological Museum has always made this
a popular place for relaxing, meeting friends
having a drink and maybe a bite to eat. The
menu has a variety of choice to suit every
taste and budget.
Before 10 (Predi 10)
D8
1 Prof. Milko Bichev St., t. 088 493 58 57
$$$, Bulgarian
Far removed from the ubiquitous
Mediterranean cuisine that most of the
citys trendy restaurants offer, this place
concentrates on high quality food made
from fresh, local ingredients and based on
traditional recipes from the Balkan region.
Bistro Landau
E7
63 Oborishte St.
$$$, German, sun deck
We were just going to give this restaurant
a thumbs up review for the tasty selection
of German dishes on offer, however we
understand that it is now under new
management so we can no longer be sure.
Blue Moon
E5
27 Rakovski St., t.0897 811 733
$$$, Thai, Open evenings only
Recently opened, this is Sofias first Thai
restaurant. We have not yet had the chance
to check it out ourselves but the general
feedback seems to be all round positive and
with so few genuinely good exotic restaurants
in Sofia we had to include it in our listings.
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Bodega Tapas & wine
17 Akad. Boris Stefanov St., Studentski
Grad, t. 0898 638 003
$$, Spanish, Car Park, Terrace
Great for both a light bite, or dinner with
friends. The menu includes an attractive
selection of tapas, sandwiches and salads as
well as the traditional Paella and a variety of
original starters and main course dishes which
are beautifully illustrated in the menu. The
service is very attentive and friendly. Live
Spanish music on Thurs, Fri, Sat evenings.
Borimechkata
6 Akad. Boris Stefanov St., Studentski Grad
t. 0888 222 124
$$, Bulgarian, Car Park, Terrace
An extensive menu presents all that is good
about Bulgarian cuisine, at very reasonable
prices. The service is genuinely friendly and
attentive. Lively Bulgarian courtyard setting,
without the usual tourist gimmicks.
Brasserie
E4
3 Raiko Daskalov Sq., t. 02 980 0398
$$$$, Intercontinental, patio garden
Ultra trendy, sleek interior and a very
beautiful patio area at the back. The menu
is brief and original with a good variety of
dishes and taste styles.
Cabra
E7
18 Oborishte St., t. 02 846 8687
$$, health food, pavement dining,
Innovative health food bar at the lower
end of Oborishte St. A simple and cheerful
interior and a surprisingly fresh menu that
definitely takes the boring out of vegetarian.
Daily specials.
Checkpoint Charly
E5
12 Ivan Vazov St.,
t. 02 988 0370
$$$, International,
Garden
A favourite venue for a meal or just a coffee
in the trendy black and white, Checkpoint
Charly themed setting. All the details have
been specially selected by the owners:
table napkins from old newspapers, antique
ashtrays, etc. Traditional Bulgarian dishes and
daily menu.
Club Ivan Vazov in the adjacent historic
building offers a homely atmosphere for din-
ing, served by the Checkpoint Charly kitchen.
Chepishev
27 Ivanitsa Danchev St., Boyana,
t. 02 959 1010
$$$, Bulgarian, Car parking, Terrace
At the start of the Boyana residential area.
The menu offers both traditional Bulgarian dishes
and more adventurous international cuisine.
Confetti
E4
4 Graf Ignatiev St., t.02 988 4444
$$$
What looks like an ice-cream parlour from
the street actually turns out to be a restau-
rant with very large indoor dining area and
even larger garden. The menu includes the
typical Mediterranean salads, fish and meat
dishes, pasta and a daily special consisting
of soup and main course for under 10 leva.
Divaka
E4
16 Hristo Belchev St.
$$, Bulgarian
Large trendy location for a favourite Bulgar-
ian eatery, that is always busy, probably be-
cause it presents excellent value for money.
The staff are generally very friendly.
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Fancy Terrace & Garden
E5
10 Tsar Osvoboditel Blvd., First floor
$$$, International
This chain of restaurants is present mainly in
the malls of Sofia, offering acceptable food at
acceptable prices. The main attraction of this
particular restaurant is the spectacular view
onto the quaint Russian Church across the
road, which till recently was reserved only
for smokers but now that the new regulations
are in force non-smokers can also enjoy front
row seating. For gadget lovers - your order
can be placed directly via the touch screen
on every table - traditionalists can talk to the
friendly waiting staff. Service is very prompt.
Flannagans on the Square
E6
Radisson Blu Grand Hotel
$$$$, International, Terrace
Flannagans offers a selection of international
favourites in a dramatic black and red interior
with a cosy lounge area, a generous terrace
and great views.
Flocafe Lounge Bar and Restaurant
E4
3 Sveta Nedelya Sq.
t. 02 950 66 45
$$, Continental, Terrace
Lively and trendy. Enjoy a selection of
coffee, shakes, cocktails and desserts or have
a light meal. The menu offers enough variety
to appeal to all tastes.
Gurkha
I3
56 Tsvetna Gradina St.
t. 02 865 02 16, 088 493 9100
$$, Indian and Nepali, Easy parking
Not far from the Kempinski and Hilton Hotel.
The menu features traditional and tasty Indian
and Nepali cuisine. The decor with oriental
touches makes for a cosy dining ambience.
Hilton Sofia Restaurant Seasons
H3
1 Bulgaria Blvd., t. 02 933 5062
$$$$, International, AC, Terrace
Completely revamped, impeccably stylish,
the restaurant offers modern, fresh and deli-
cious food, combining flavours from all over
the world. The Sunday brunch is well worth
treating yourself to especially as they offer a
baby-sitting service.
K.E.V.A. (K.E.B.A.)
F4
114 Rakovski St., t.0877 313 233
$$, Bulgarian, Courtyard
Set back down a little from Rakovski St. next
to the National Film & Theatre Academy
(NATFIZ) you will find this popular restaurant
serving simple tasty Bulgarian cuisine in an
informal modern setting at very affordable
prices. The delicious homemade lemonade
and tasty traditional appetizers (referred to
as dips on the English menu) with the fresh
bread are welcome at any time of the day.
LEtranger
D4
78 Tsar Simeon St.,
t. 02 983 1417,
088 752 3376
$$$$, French
Within easy walking distance from the Shera-
ton Hotel and the many hotels situated along
Maria Luisa Blvd. this charming restaurant is the
longest running French restaurant in the city
with a regular following of clients and friends.
Open for lunch and dinner during the week,
dinner only on Saturdays, closed on Sundays.
La Cubanita
I0
2 Bitoyla St., Beli Brezi district
t. 089 689 5341
Cuban, International, Garden
The beautiful garden area is probably one of
the most attractive features of this restau-
rant. The rather extensive illustrated menu
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offers half a dozen or so Cuban specialities
and a good variety of international meat
and fish dishes. The real attraction of La
Cubanita seems to be the evening entertain-
ment program that starts at 22:00 and offers
a variety from Ladies night on Wednesdays,
erotic dance night for men on Thursdays ,
salsa and latino parties on other nights. You
can check the program on their website.
Lavazza Espression
F3
44 Vitosha Blvd., t. 0885 733 580
$$, Italian, Pavement dining,
Non Smoking interior
The menu offers much more than just coffee
and drinks. Choose from a variety of brus-
chetta or one of the many tempting salads
or sandwiches. The novelty coffee creation
espessone is dessert & coffee in one!
Le Bouquet
E4
21 Vitosha Blvd., t. 02 8100 800
Restaurant of the fantastically trendy Les
Fleurs hotel on Vitosha Blvd. The restaurant
serves modern contemporary cuisine with an
emphasis on fresh, natural ingredients.
Maison Godet
D3
17a Alexander Stamboliiski Blvd.
$$$, French
Stylish underground restaurant, not far from St.
Nedelya Square and the Sheraton Hotel. The
food and service is highly rated, and the se-
lection of mainly French wines is good without
being too expensive. Closed on Sundays.
Mali Beograd
Samokovsko Shosse, Pancharevo
t. 02 974 9296, +359 87 986 3611
$$$, Serbian, Car Park, Terrace
If its tasty grilled meats you are after it is well
worth stopping by here especially on a warm
summer evening.
Mezze
J8
12 Nikolai Haitov St., t. 0897 889185
$$$, Mediterranean, Terrace
Mezze literally means appetizers, and in-
deed the menu includes bowls of olives etc.,
but there are also fresh pasta dishes, salads
and fresh fish on the menu. Always busy.
Reservations recommended.
Miyabi
D5
5 Stara Planina St.,
(close to junction with Dondukov Blvd)
$$$$, Japanese
The restaurant is a little hidden, not far from
the main junction of Rakovski St and Dondu-
kov Blvd, set back in the courtyard of a new
office development - but well worth finding.
This is one of the best Japanese restaurants
in town. The menu is authentic but if you are
not too familiar with Japanese food, may be
a little tricky to navigate. The staff are help-
ful in advising without going over the top in
their recommendations.
Motto
E5
18 Aksakov St., t. 02 987 2723
$$$, French/Continental, Garden
This place just continues to be popular with
locals and expat alike. Modern bistro-type
menu. Reservations recommended.
Discover the Sunny
Heart of Italy! Savour the
warmth, friendliness and
typical Mediterranean
hospitality and try our
summer specialties.
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Olive Garden
E4
18 Angel Kanchev St., t. 02 481 1214
$$$, Mediterranean, Garden
Good food, friendly service and reasonable
prices. The menu is orientated towards pasta
& Italian but it also features specialties from
around the world. Particularly attractive is
the extensive lunch time menu with smaller
portions and lower prices.
Opera
E5
113 Rakovski St., t. 02 988 2141
$$$, international, Pavement dining
Just below the Opera, this place is trendy
and the food tasty at any time of day.
Pastorant
E3
16 Tsar Assen St., t. 02 981 4482
$$$, Italian, Garden
Charming and intimate, done out in refresh-
ing pale green with delightful knick-knacks.
The menu is creative and the dishes are
tasty. Regular guest chefs. Has lovely garden
area across the street.
Pod Lipite
H6
1 Elin Pelin St., t. 02 866 5053
67 Cherni Vrah Blvd., t. 02 962 5953
$$$, Bulgarian, Car parking, Garden
Both restaurants present authentic Bulgarian
cuisine in an authentic setting.
Riverside Brewery & restaurant
Dragalevtsi Suburb, BBQ
This popular out of town restaurant has now
re-opened after burning down a couple of
years ago. Located just above the suburb of
Dragalevtsi, bordering Vitosha National Park it
is a great choice for escaping the heat in the
city during the summer months, although not
so easy to locate. The menu is mainly BBQ,
there is a new childrens playground.
Saffron
Francois Mitterrand St., next to bl. 42B
Studentski Grad
t. 0890 917203, 0886 963846
$$, Indian, Easy parking, Terrace
The restaurant is tucked away in Students
town, behind Fantastiko supermarket and
is worth checking out. Good Indian food at
reasonable prices. Open every day from
lunchtime onwards, except on Mondays from
17.00hrs.
Sage Bistro
63 Stefan Stambolov St., 1st floor,
Bistritsa village square
t. 02 992 7140
$$$$, International, Balcony
Although situated in the village of Bistritsa
(approx.15km from city centre) this
restaurant is a popular venue for foreigners
and locals alike who appreciate the high
quality of the cuisine and attentive service.
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Closed Mondays, open weekdays for
dinner only, Saturdays and Sundays for
lunch and dinner.
Sidoniya - Lord of the Chefs
E4
29b, Hristo Belchev St., t. 0893 688 884
$$$$, International
Sidoniya Radeva is the 2011 winner of the Bul-
garian Lord of the chefs TV show. Her prize
was this restaurant. In the cosy and intimate
atmosphere diners can experience her passion
for cooking, choosing from a brief yet imagina-
tive menu.
SkaraBar
D7
2 Dimitar Grekov St., t. 02 483 0696
18 G. Benkovski St.
$, Bulgarian, Terrace
Something between a BBQ restaurant and a
bar. A relatively short menu based on Bulgar-
ian cuisine, along with low prices make this an
attractive option. Generous portions!
Spaghetti Kitchen
E5
9, 6th September St.
t. 02 441 0270, 0888 105 816
$$$, Italian - Americano, Garden
Warm earthy tones, raw natural materials
and a variety of seating options arranged
on several levels all around a very visible
kitchen hub. If spaghetti (pasta) is not your
thing there is so much more to choose from;
steaks, fish, seafood etc. The main dishes all
come with a choice of side orders and are
good value for money. There are also daily
lunch time specials and on Sundays they do
brunch from 11.30 - 16.00.
Tavite
F4
58 William Gladstone St., t. 02 980 3747
$$, Bulgarian, Pavement dining
Not far from the book market at Slaveikov
Square, the fresh white interior makes a
welcoming and clean impression. The menu is
mainly traditional Bulgarian home cooking. You
can choose from the ready-cooked buffet or
order from the menu. Very reasonably priced.
Vino & Tapas
D5
38 Dondukov Blvd.
t. 0878 410 930, 0879 435 930
$$, Mediterranean, Summer Courtyard
Not far from the back of the Opera this
quaint little wine bar is tucked away at the
back of a courtyard. The wine list is com-
prehensive (Bulgarian and international) and
reasonably priced. New menu. Opens at
17.00hrs. They also offer catering.
YCa[ts, fu|s aod ars
365
E6
Corner of Oborishte St
& Vassil Levski Blvd
Lively bar on a busy street corner.
Afreddo
E4
12 Vitosha Blvd.
Serving some of the best ice cream in town
(made with real milk and fruit) this ice cream
parlour/cafe near the law court end of
pedestrianised Vitosha Blvd. is a welcome
spot to stop off and treat yourself. Choose
from waffle cones or plastic tubs and over
30 different flavours including frozen yoghurt
and fruit sorbets - the price is by weight.
Espresso coffee and a limited selection of
drinks and sandwiches are also available,
with plenty of indoor and outdoor seating.
Artists Bar
H3
Hilton Hotel
Stylish bar with live music each evening from
Monday to Thursday. Live piano music each
evening from 6pm to 8pm, Wednesdays and
Thursdays live jazz from 10pm to midnight.
Before & after
E4
12 Hristo Belchev St., t. 02 981 6088
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Bar Me
E5
Military Club, 7 Tsar Osvoboditel Blvd.,
entrance on Rakovski St.
Stop off at this eclectic bar for a coffee and cr-
oissant, or something a little stronger depend-
ing on the time of day and your preference.
By the Way
G4
166 Rakovski St.
This long running bar is ideally located if you
are looking for somewhere near to NDK (Na-
tional Palace of Culture) to have a drink and
a small bite to eat - before or after a show.
There is a limited but innovative selection of
items available (salads, sandwiches, bruschetta)
and some fabulous homemade desserts which
go down well with an afternoon coffee.
Casa de Cuba
I3
1 Tsvetna Gradina, Helsinki Sq.
Great atmosphere. Stop by here for some
genuine Cuban coffee, or a cocktail with or
without Cuban rum and a cigar.
Clouds
F4
44 Patriarh Evtimii Blvd
Relatively new cafe/bar in the centre of town
that offers refreshment whatever the time of
day; sandwiches (freshly made) and cakes
(muffins, brownies etc.) to accompany the
drinks on offer. The ambience is pleasant and
relaxing.
Dada Cultural bar
D5
10 G. Benkovski St.
Regular cultural events, daily fresh menu, tapas
and more.
Funky kitchen
E4
26 Stefan Karadja St., t. 0883 44 8338
Restaurant & dance bar, newly refurbished and
offering a new menu. Worth a visit especially in
the evenings.
Gramophone
D5
6 Budapest St.
Retro dance club
Jackin bar
E5
8A Tsar Osvoboditel Blvd.
A place to socialise, enjoy a drink with friends
after work and listen to funky, groovy or house
music. Guest DJs.
JJ Murphys
E3
6 Karnigradska St., t. 02 980 2870
The citys leading Irish pub has live music
at weekends and real imported Irish food
items. Does a Sunday roast and is very
popular with ex-pats. Large choice of beers
including Red Murphys and a lovely BBQ
Garden.
Local
E6
2 Sheinovo St.
This wine bar has a large spacious feel to it,
thanks to the high ceilings and large windows
which open on to the street. For those who
would like a bite to eat there is a limited daily
menu of healthy but tasty salads, sandwiches
and soups. The selection of home made des-
serts is enticing and rewarding!
Mando Cafe
J8
Joliot Curie Metro stop, downstairs
Small and friendly non-smoking cafe that
serves very reasonable priced freshly baked
rolls and French pastries as well as healthy
salads and fresh pasta.
ca|c, u| and |ar
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McCarthys
E4
50a Alabin St.
Irish run with the authentic look and feel of
an Irish pub. Live Music. Guinness, Kilkenny,
Heineken, Bulmers cider and a wide range of
local and international drinks. No food served.
Memento
E5
106 Rakovski St. corner of Gen.Gurko St.
32 Vitosha Blvd.
Trendy and popular all day coffee bar with
regular music events open till the early morn-
ing hours.
One Coffee
J8
Joliot Curie Metro stop, upstairs
Large trendy cafe/bar serving sandwiches,
mekitsi (doughnuts), salads and a variety of
drinks.
One more bar
F5
12 Shishman St.
This is no doubt one of the hippest places
to go, no matter what time of day. Go for a
coffee, a drink, a tasty sandwich or a healthy
salad. You wont be disappointed.
Park bar
E7
Corner San Stefano / Shipka St.
A popular meeting place for a bite to eat dur-
ing the day or drinks after work.
Raffy Bar & Gelato
E4
11 Angel Kanchev St.
This ice cream parlour/cafe offers a great
place to stop for coffee or a bite to eat at any
time of day. In addition to the large variety of
ice cream flavours on offer, the menu offers
plenty for the more health conscious diner;
yoghurt and fruit melbas, salads, sandwiches
and daily cooked specials. They offer a daily
3 course lunch special for just 5 leva! Happy
hour 18:00 - 20:00. Pavement dining.
Tea House (Chai vuv Fabrikata)
D5
11 Georgi Benkovski St., t. 0887 051 080
Tea house in one of the rooms of an old facto-
ry. Serves over 50 types of tea, healthy food,
including an Ayurvedic menu and home made
cakes. Regular events include jazz concerts,
childrens matinees on Saturday mornings and
other interesting initiatives.
Tiffany
E3
12-14 Denkoglu St.
Trendy dance bar in the city centre.
Timeless
E6
11 Krakra St
At the back of the Union of Architects this
is a relatively inexpensive cafe with a turn
of the century feel, bentwood cafe chairs
interspersed with cosy sofa corners and a
shady garden area.
Toba & Co
E5
6 Moskovska St.
At the back of the former Tsars palace, you
can enjoy the outdoor shelter of the large
trees on warmer days or enjoy the retro inte-
rior of this imperial setting.
Yl|tt Hus|c
Backstage
D6
100 Vassil Levski Blvd.
This club features live music every night,
Wednesday is blues night.
cul le tal
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ca|c, u| and |ar
Sofia Live Club
G3
NDK underpass by the fountains
t. 0888 331 193
Closed July and August.
Full programme details: sofialiveclub.com
Swinging Hall
H6
8 Dragan Tsankov Blvd.
Different bands play alternately in each of the
two rooms. Crowded, the emphasis is on jazz
and rock every night
Yv|sces / vaoct c|u|s
(usually open from 22.00hrs)
Please note that many of the clubs in Sofia
close during the summer months - or should
we say relocate to the Black Sea Coast. We
have tried to include clubs here that are
open all year round but ask for your under-
standing if we have got it wrong.
Blender Club
G3
NDK underpass opposite the fountains
One of the newest and hippest dance clubs
in town.
Chervilo
E5
9 Tsar Osvoboditel Blvd. (Military Club)
House music
Culture beat
G3
NDK
Escobar
G4

3 Vassil Levski Blvd.
Mascara
D5
113 Rakovski St., below Opera
My Mojito
E5
12 Ivan Vazov St.
Admission charged on weekends.
Sin City
D3
Todor Alexandrov and Hristo Botev Blvd.
Several party venues for different music prefer-
ences under one roof.
Wake up Bar
G3
underpass between Hilton Sofia and NDK
Studio 5
G3
NDK Entrance A3
Lovely small sized venue within NDK for lovely
intimate live music evenings. Closed in August.
Yalta Club
E6
20, Tsar Osvoboditel Blvd.
opposite Sofia University
The oldest club in town with a new look for the
21st century. www.yaltaclub.com
Places we dont recommend
Modera Coffee
6 Shipka St
This is only for people who dont mind
loud music, any time of day! If you want
to meet people for a coffee to actually
chat we suggest Costa Coffee round
the corner on Krakra St.
And we have our personal reasons
for not recommending these places ;(
Intrigue
102 Vitosha Blvd.
Funhouse The Clock
81 Tsar Assen St.
5th Avenue
174 Rakovski St.
Central bar & eatery
137 Rakovski St.
Fetish
4 Vitosha Blvd.
Dont agree with
our restaurant
recommendations
or found one you would
like to recommend?
Post your comments:
www.inyourpocket.com/bulgaria
40
ADVICE AND TIPS IF YOURE PLANNING
ON STAYING A LITTLE LONGER
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FORMALITIES
Since joining the EU new rules have come
into force for EU citizens, for all other
nationals the restrictions remain unchanged.
Check with the Bulgarian Embassy in your
home country.
The new regulation replaces the identity
cards (lichni karti) with new residence
permit cards, or certificates as they are
officially called. These new cards do not
have a photo, nor do they give the national
identification number (EGN in Bulgarian).
We suggest you hang on to your lichna
karta (if you have one) for as long as
possible. The other major change applies
to family members who are not citizens
of the EU. They can be issued with a
residence card for long or permanent
stay in Bulgaria depending on the period
of stay of the EU citizen.
Several other minor changes in the law in
terms of long and permanent residence
have been noted. According to the new
law, long stay is up to five years (while
the old regulation provided only one year).
There are three conditions that an EU
citizen must meet in order to apply for long
stay in Bulgaria.
They must either be working in Bulgaria,
enrolled in school or university; have a
health insurance number and sufficient
funds to support himself and his family. For
permanent residence, an EU citizen must
also have lived in the country for the past
five years and have legal work status.
The passport office is at 48 Maria Luisa Blvd.
FINDING A HOME
This should in theory not be too difficult as
there is an abundance of accommodation
available for rent. The problem is finding
something that will feel like home away
from home. There are several areas popular
with the expat community and the first
decision you will need to make is whether
to live in town or in the suburbs.
Accommodation in town will usually be in
apartments, either in modern purpose built
blocks or in some of the older grander
buildings, which unfortunately may have
rather run down and dirty communal areas.
Living in town is recommended for singles
or couples without children who enjoy go-
ing out in the evenings. The drawback is
the noise, dirt and bad air. Popular residen-
tial areas in Sofia include Iztok, Lozenets
and Doctors Garden. It is worth check-
ing with Cleves as they have an excellent
choice of brand new ready-to-move-in
apartments in prime locations.
Out of town accommodation is usually in
villas with all sorts of extras, including pool
and sauna (depending on your budget).
The air is cleaner here and most villas
have reasonably sized gardens making it
the better choice for families with small
children. Access in the winter months can
be tricky as side roads in these areas are
rarely cleared of snow and ice and the
general condition of the roads is bad to
start off with. Four wheel drives are highly
recommended if you choose to live in the
suburbs. Popular areas include; Boyana,
Dragalevtsi, Simeonovo, Bistritsa, Pan-
charevo and Gorna Banya. The city centre
is generally a 20-30 minute drive from
these areas, depending on traffic.
Estate agencies will usually take a com-
mission of half the first months rent. In
exchange for this they should help you
negotiate the amount, the terms of pay-
ment and sort out any legal issues such as
contracts signing.
SECURING YOUR HOME
Most properties available for rent offer
some form of security. An alarm system
preferably linked to a security firm is a must
(sorry!). Foreigners are attractive targets
for burglaries, especially when the prop-
erty is vacant, although there has been an
increase recently in night time break-ins
based on the assumption that the alarms
are disengaged when people are home.
Alternatives to alarms include living in
secure compounds, hiring a guard, or keep-
ing a guard dog (although sadly these are
sometimes drugged or poisoned before a
break in).
FINDING HOME HELP
Finding the right person to help around the
home is no longer easy in Sofia especially if
you want someone with a foreign lan-
guage.
The going rate can be quite steep these
days but then it is a question of supply and
demand. The IWC (International Womens
Club) usually has a good network of recom-
mendations for everything from gardener,
housekeeper, driver or babysitter.
FURNISHING YOUR HOME
Many homes come partially furnished or
unfurnished. Most typically foreigners
complain about badly equipped kitchens.
A compromise can often be reached with
landlords to foot part of the bill for any
purchases or improvements you want made.
Finding suitable furniture till now has been
quite an arduous task although there has
been a vast increase in the number of
furniture shops around town. A lot of time
and patience is required in finding what
you want as there are very few large shops
offering a broad spectrum. Likewise it is
very difficult to find companies who have
a large stock base. Another alternative
is custom-made furniture which is very
reasonably priced.
On the Ring Road between Mladost and
Dragalevtsi, there is a whole array of home
furnishing shops for people with different
tastes and budgets.
42 42
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216 Okolovrusten
Pat / Ring Road
near junction with
the Bistritsa Rd.
www.ikea.bg (in Bulgarian)
Long awaited, IKEA finally opened in
September 2011 and has certainly filled its
niche in the market. The product range is
fairly comprehensive and prices are in line
with other stores around the world despite
efforts to discredit the Bulgarian IKEA in
the media before it had even opened. The
restaurant and food shop still lack many of
the familiar products but this may just be a
question of time and assessing the market.
There is plenty of parking space but if
possible visit during weekdays as on the
weekends it gets very busy.
323 Tsarigradsko Shosse, Gorublane district
20 Obelsko Shosse, Lyulin district
www.praktiker.bg
German DIY hypermarket chain with two
outlets in Sofia,and several more across the
country. Open 7 days a week 08.30 -
20.00 (9.00 - 19.00 Sundays)
An excellent range and choice of products
for everyone from the serious builder to
the amateur home decorator or gardener.
Check out their website which is in
Bulgarian and English.
There is no shortage of choice when it
comes to finding technical equipment for
the home. Everything from DVD players
to vacuum cleaners can be found at prices
comparable to elsewhere in Europe. Check
Technomarket, Technopolis, Zora (most
helpful and knowledgeable sales staff) and
Metro.
CARS
The best recommendation for a car in
Bulgaria is any form of four wheel drive, es-
43 www.inyourpocket.com/bulgaria 43
pecially if you plan to live outside the city
or travel the country much. Try to avoid
however anything too flashy or new, as you
may find yourself separated from your car
much sooner than planned.
INSURANCE
There have been major changes regarding
insurance in Bulgaria in recent years with
all the big international companies such
as AIG, Allianz, Generali etc, represented
here. The packages they offer are no doubt
comparable with what we are used to, so it
is worth checking out.
YOUR HEALTH
Many expatriates maintain an international
health insurance policy throughout their
time abroad. This entitles them to sched-
uled and emergency health care abroad,
usually in the closest European capital with
a hospital approved by the insurance com-
pany. However, if you cannot afford such
a policy you will be reliant on the local
healthcare service. The general opinion is
that there are many good doctors in Bul-
garia but the healthcare system as a whole,
and some of its practices in particular, are
outmoded by several decades. Certainly
those doctors that have studied or worked
in the West will be a better bet, and many
speak foreign languages. Such doctors can
be found working in private health centres,
and will often also work in a state hospi-
tal. They can also refer you to a state or
private hospital.
If you are involved in an accident then you
will be taken to Pirogov Emergency hospital
(in Sofia). Here the doctors are competent
but conditions are appalling and you may
have to get a relative or friend to bring in
medicines, dressings and food for you.
Not all countries have reciprocal health care
agreements with Bulgaria, and you should
check whether you are covered. If you live
in Bulgaria, you or your employer should
Sales-Rentals
Tel.: +359 2 821 21 21
galardo@century21.bg
www.century21galardo.com
202, Cherni Vrah blvd.
Sofia, Bulgaria
Galardo Real Estate
44 44
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be paying Bulgarian health insurance for
you and your family, which entitles you to
emergency treatment.
WORKING
It can take a while to get used to the busi-
ness etiquette in a new country.
Dress Code: Bulgarians are fairly formal
in their work attire. Men usually wear a
suit and tie and women also wear suits or
dresses with high heels and ample make-up.
In creative and media fields the dress code
is more casual, and many international com-
panies have implemented the casual Friday.
Smoking: Most offices are now legally
non-smoking, and most smokers are now
resigned to smoking on the street.
Punctuality: Bulgarians are not known for
their punctuality and you may find people
strolling in late for meetings, often without
even apologising. Obviously your reaction
will depend on your relationship to the
offending party, but if you have arranged
to meet in a cafe or restaurant, it may be
worth waiting 15-30 minutes before decid-
ing to leave.
Formality: Most Bulgarians are on a first
name basis amongst their colleagues using
the familiar you, but will address the boss
by his/her full name and the polite you.
Women in the workplace are treated fairly
equally in Bulgaria, but US citizens and other
westerners may find male comments sexist.
Bulgarian women tend not to get too both-
ered about this kind of behaviour, but if it
bothers you point it out firmly and politely.
EDUCATION
K|odtrgarltos
There is plenty of choice of nursery and
preschool education for your young chil-
dren. Your choice will depend on which
part of Sofia you live in and your language
preferences. Most offer full day care,
IN VITRO CENTRE
VITA MULTIDISCIPLINARY HOSPITAL
9, Dragovitsa str., 1505 Soa
t. +359 2 960 4950; 960 4951; 943 4398
Mobile: +359 882 060 433
Fax: +359 2 944 13 43
Email: invitro@vita.bg
45 www.inyourpocket.com/bulgaria 45
healthy meals and snacks and extras such
as swimming, skiing, etc. Some of the more
popular ones may have a waiting list; check
out the following and see if they meet your
personal requirements.
ABC Kindercare Centre has two fully Eng-
lish-speaking nursery schools in Sofia - one
in the town centre and one in Lozenets.
Both are situated in lovely houses, beauti-
fully furnished and equipped with state of
the art technology for language learning
and development. Children from 2-6 years
old. t. 02 434 1082, 02 434 1119
Bright Childcare and Development Centre
As the name suggests a bright modern
house beautifully equipped, just off the
Ring road in Boyana (near Shell and
Mcdonalds)
t: 0888 558 997
Germani, located at the foot of Vitosha
Mountain, offers a whole variety of services
(bistro, spa centre, party centre) but upper-
most is the German speaking Kindergarten
with native German educators. The generous
site is newly developed with a large outdoor
playing area and they have their own indoor
pool, where the kids have swimming lessons
twice a week. t. 0884 735 954
International Childrens Creativity
Foundation in a large house between
Simeonovo and Dragalevtsi accepts chil-
dren between the ages of 2 and 5. Fully
English speaking. This is the oldest English-
language nursery and still the most popular
choice with expats. For further information
t. 02 967 3112
Little Steps
New English-language educational centre
for children from 2-6 years in Simeonovo.
The centre uses a British-based curriculum
taught by well-qualified and experienced
nursery school teachers. Based in a large
house with a garden with several play
areas.
t. 02 961 4906; 0895 700 605
46 46
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Montessori Childrens House
6 Yana Yazova St., 1164 Sofia tel: +359 2
9622748
A fully English speaking nursery following
the principles of Montessori to give chil-
dren a holistic education. Special teaching
materials, set in different thematic areas,
help children reach their full potential and
promote independence and concentration.
Located in a lovely house with large garden
in the south of Sofia, a nice touch is that the
children grow their own vegetables, then
prepare and cook them for their lunch.
Nemo in Dragalevtsi (near the square) is
a convenient choice for those living in the
suburbs. They have an international group
of children and although the main language
is Bulgarian, they also have projects in Eng-
lish and German. They work in conjunction
with the National Opera and Ballet, intro-
ducing children to music at a young age.
t. 02 967 2099
Tuti
English language Kindergarten up to
preschool (2-6 years), in purpose built
premises in the Lozenets district.
t. 0888 522615, 02 9630662
Wonder World has two separate kinder-
gartens - the English one in Dragalevtsi and
the Bulgarian one (Chuden Sviat) in Boyana.
For further information please contact
t. 0885 689 402.
>ckee|s
Most foreigners send their kids to the The
Anglo-American School, The French School
(Lycee Victor Hugo), or Deutsche Schule
Sofia, whose fees are in line with European
schools. Here are some alternative options:
Euro Lyceum
t. 02 979 19 49; 02 978 64 55
This recently established school follows the
British National Curriculum and the Cam-
bridge International Primary programme. It
has recently been awarded the necessary
license by the Bulgarian authorities and
currently offers Kindergarten and 1st till 3rd
grade (classes are growing).
The American College of Sofia
www.acs.bg
The elite school for bright Bulgarian kids
also offers IB for international students.
8th - 12th grade. t. 02 434 1008 for more
information
There are several private Bulgarian schools
with a strong focus on foreign languages
but they are obliged to follow the Bulgar-
ian state curriculum. These include:
St. George School
Bilingual English-Bulgarian school, part of
Wondergroup.
t. 0885 689 402 for more details.
Uwekind
In a renovated state school building at the
foot of a wooded hill in the Knyazhevo
district, the main focus in the early years is
on German, with English being introduced
in the 3rd grade. Uwekind is now certified
for the Middle Years Programme of the
International Baccalaureate.
t. 02 857 2000, www.uwekind.com
h|gktr tducal|eo
American University in Blagoevgrad
t. 02 943 4415 for more information
47 www.inyourpocket.com/bulgaria 47
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LEARNING THE LANGUAGE
Bulgarian is not such a difficult lan-
guage, it has a much smaller vocabulary
than English, and the grammar is quite
straightforward. For some the Cyrillic
alphabet is the sticking point, and they
never progress beyond it. It all boils
down to how much you want to get to
know the real Bulgaria by speaking to its
inhabitants in their own language. If you
do decide to learn Bulgarian, you can try
the many language courses available, or
individual lessons with a private teacher.
The latter may often take place in your
office or home. There is no right or wrong
way to learn, though theres a definite
advantage to intensive courses, if you can
spare the time.
EXPAT BUSINESS
AND SOCIAL CLUBS
International Womens Club of Sofia
The club is a valuable support group for
women who come here as non-working
spouses offering support groups, ac-
tivities, excursions and charity projects.
www.iwc-sofia.org for more information.
American Chamber of Commerce in
Bulgaria
A large organisation of companies that are
either American or do business with the
USA. www.amcham.bg
British Bulgarian Chamber of Commerce
An organisation dedicated to promoting
business between the United Kingdom and
Bulgaria. Membership is open to any Brit-
ish or Bulgarian registered company - visit
www.bbcc.bg for more information.
Bulgarian Business Leaders Forum (BBLF)
A business organisation under the patron-
age of HRH The Prince of Wales. www.
bblf.bg
Hellenic Business Council in Bulgaria
(HBCB)
Organisation for Greek and Cypriot
companies operating in Bulgaria. It was
formed for the purpose of promoting and
strengthening the economic and cultural
ties between Bulgaria and Greece. www.
hbcbg.com
SHOPPING
The increase in the number of super/hy-
permarkets in Sofia does not appear to be
slowing down, making shopping a much
easier experience all round for expats. All
are self serve (with the exception of the
deli counters) and air conditioned. Most
have trolleys with child seats, easy car
access, and accept debit and credit cards.
Your favourite choice will depend on the
location of the supermarket and your per-
sonal preference of products on offer.
Help the environment by using cloth shop-
ping bags or recycling your plastic ones.
Billa
Austrian chain with outlets all over the
country. They seem to be catering pre-
dominantly to the Bulgarian market, and
you may therefore not find the same range
of exotic products.
Carrefour
In The Mall on Tsarigradsko Shosse and
several smaller locations in town.
The in house brands offer excellent value
for money, but otherwise on the food front
there isnt a lot to differentiate it from the
likes of Hit or Picadilly.
48 48
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Fantastico
Local chain of convenience stores open till
late plus a couple of bigger supermarkets
around town. New outlets on the main
road to Dragalevtsi and on Simeonovsko
Shosse are proving popular with those
living in the suburbs. The supermarket in
Students Town next to the Extreme bowl-
ing alley is open round the clock.
Alexander Malinov Blvd., Mladost 4
and 20 Obelsko Shosse
An exotic selection of fruit and veg as well
as a good range of ingredients required
for oriental cooking. On the premises there
is a dry cleaners and several other shops
such as JYSK (home decor) and Hippo-
land (everything you need for kids). They
are open seven days a week from 8am to
10pm. www.hit-hypermarket.bg
Kaufland, Phillip Avramov Blvd., Mladost 3
Strategically placed between Billa and Hit
in the Mladost area (behind Nova Denitsa)
Good fresh bread counter.
Lidl
German discounter has recently opened in
the following districts: Nadejda 2, Hadji Dimi-
tar, Ilinden and Drujba 2 and more recently
in the Este complex in Iztok area and in
Mladost 4. Worth visiting for selected items.
Metro Cash & Carry
Tsarigradsko Shosse (open 24 hrs)
Evropa Blvd (Lyulin)
Before you can shop here you need to get
a customer card. This can either be reg-
istered to your business or as a foreigner
you can get a day card against your pass-
port. Some items need to be purchased in
bulk, the price tags will inform you of this.
Piccadilly
High-end Bulgarian supermarket chain with
outlets in the larger malls in Sofia. Excellent
selection of foodstuffs, bio products, fresh
fish and deli counters as well as cooked
meals to take home. Popular with city
based expats.
Sofias open air markets
Still a good place for fresh fruit and veg.
Remember the offer still tends to be
dictated by season and the best flavoured
products are those that are local and in
season.
The most popular markets with the foreign
community include Sitnyakovo market
(behind the Romanian embassy) and the
Roman Wall Market in Lozenets.
hta|lk [eed skeps
Most of the up-market supermarkets now
have specialised sections promoting local
and international organic products, food,
cosmetics, household products, fair trade,
gluten-free, baby foods, etc. There are also
several specialised shops.
Sluntse Luna (Sun&Moon)
48 Parchevich St. (corner with Hristo
Belchev), t. 0878 878 342
Open daily till 20:00
Biomag www.biomag.bg
1 Journalist square
50 Yanko Sakazov Blvd.
10A Doiran St.
Balev Bio Market
The Mall, Tsarigradsko Shosse 115
Just across from Carrefour.
>ptc|a||sl [eed skeps
Looking for that special treat from home or
some exotic destination? There are a couple
of specialist shops that may well have what
you are looking for.
Andys foods
5 General Kiril Botev St., t. 0885 205 553
British sausages (produced to original recipe
in Bulgaria) and fine beers and ales as well as
your more staple British culinary items.
49 www.inyourpocket.com/bulgaria
Sokoni - Indian and British food shop
108 Nikolai Gabrovski Blvd., t. 0885 762 542
Open 10:00 to 18:30, Mon to Sat
A large selection of Indian spices, curry
paste and ready curry sauces as well ay-
urvedic beauty products and a large selec-
tion of teas, cereals, chocolates and biscuits
from the UK.
C|elk|og
With the opening of the Serdika Centre
and The Mall, it seems as though most
of the expats shopping headaches have
disappeared. Till recently it had been
nearly impossible to find reasonably priced
childrens clothes & shoes, womens cloth-
ing (especially anything over a size 12 UK
(40 EU) and shoes, decent inexpensive
toiletries etc.
For those familiar with German and Austrian
or even British High Street stores, the relief
is great as more and more familiar names
appear in Sofia, even if pricing is still some-
times more than in the West.
For others, here just a few tips on which
places to check out:
Childrens clothes and accessories: Zara,
Next, Gap are all recent new additions.
Other favourites include Oviesse and Sprider
and of course Benetton. The first H&M store
in Bulgaria recently opened in The Mall.
Childrens Toys: Jumbo - the closest to a
toys r us, that we have here. Although the
variety of toys is limited, it has an excellent
selection of household decor and accesso-
ries, baby wear and necessities, stationery
and so on. Prices are very reasonable.
You will never leave empty handed!
Toiletries etc: dm - a German chain, whose
own brand name cosmetics (balea & Al
verde) are extremely good value for money.
Shoes: Deichmann (budget) Humanic (good
quality at a reasonable price) Also in the
outlet centre next to Metro good selection of
shoes at discounted prices.
Fashion: Quality at a reasonable price, in a
variety of sizes: Peek & Cloppenburg
Womens plus Sizes: Ulla Popken in the
Serdika Centre
Note: Adult clothing sizes in Bulgaria are
different from European sizes so again it is
best to try before you buy. You will also
find that Bulgarian shops tend to stock very
small sizes only, and often the cuts are less
generous forcing you to go up a size.
50 50
cral stcl|eo
RELIGIOUS SERVICES
The Anglican Church
Meets once a month at the Chapel of the
Catholic Church, 5 Oborishte Street (close
to the National Library). This is a service of
Holy Communion in English, usually on the
3rd Sunday of the month.
AnglicanBG@yahoo.co.uk, t. 0889 261 511
The Bulgarian Lutheran Church
English services: Sunday mornings at 9am
The Church is on the second floor.
4 Kapitan Andreev St., Lozenetz,
t. 02 963 4244
Mladost Baptist Church
Sunday Worship: 10:00 am
Bible Study: 11:20 am
Mladost 2 across from block 219c
Pastor Steve Swann: t. 088 865 6598
St Josephs Catholic Church
Latin lithurgy Sat. and Sun. 11.30am
Open 7am to 7pm
125 Knyaz Boris St., t. 02 981 5548
Deutschsprachige evangelisch-lutherische
Kirchengemeinde
An ecumenical community, open to contact
with other evangelical congregations.
Invitation to worship: We celebrate every
2nd and 4th Saturday of the month at 17.00
hrs in the building of the Methodist Church
of Sofia, 86 Rakovski St., opposite the Op-
era House. t. 02 963 2050
evkirchesofia@web.de
www.sofia.diplo.de/Vertretung/sofia/
de/06/Religion/Aktuell.html
International Baptist Church Sofia
Every Sunday worship at 11am (also Children
Sunday School) t. 02 961 3236 for more
information. Interpred World Trade Centre,
Dragan Tsankov Blvd, t. 02 971 1750
Bahai Centre
Every Wednesday from 11am till 7pm visi-
tors are invited to an Open House
8 Boyanski Vuzhod, Bukston district,
t. 02 955 5833, nsa@bahaibg.org
We are proud to present Combobrand -
the fashion store that will make you smile!
We are a Bulgarian company, selling current
models of clothes and accessories. Our prod-
ucts are fresh, colorful, fun, casual and most
of all - affordable. We offer ladies and mens
clothing and our goal is to bring comfort to
our clients. In our stores you can find dresses
(13 `); jeans (15 `); tunics (8`); t-shirts (5`);
mens shirts (14`); men polo shirts (7`), etc.
As this is our first participation in Sofia
the insiders guide, we will give you a
voucher with 20% discount of the official
price and the voucher applies for the new
collection. Our general store is located at
40 Graf Ignatiev St. and we are glad to
meet you there.
Dont forget - come, smile and keep
your style!
How YOU can help support
Sofia - the insiders guide?
ADVERTISE, SPONSOR or SUBSCRIBE!
Call + 359 888 408647 to find out more
We are grateful for
all the support we can get!
51 www.inyourpocket.com/bulgaria 51
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YOUR ANIMALS
As long as your dog or cat has an interna-
tional health passport there are no restric-
tions in bringing your pet into/or taking it
out of Bulgaria. Bulgarians are generally
very fond of pets and there are plenty of
pet shops around town. There have been
some attempts recently to introduce tighter
controls on pet ownership including the
registration of all dogs with the local mu-
nicipality. If you are considering a pet, then
dont shop, adopt. Local charities are
inundated with cats and dogs looking for
loving homes. Check www.arsofia.com
VETERINARIANS
The Blue Cross veterinary clinic (www.
bluecrossbg.com) is highly rated and also
offers boarding facilities for your pets. They
are on duty 24 hours.
FOR RENT
Newly refurbished
1 Bedroom Apartment in prime
central but quiet location
On Ivan Vazov Street, just 5 minutes walk
from the University metro station, this fully
refurbished apartment is light and airy and
has tons of charm and character.
Well equipped.
For more information or
to arrange a viewing please call
t. +359 888 408647 or
t. +359 888 633 990
52
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ACCOUNTANTS (ENGLISH SPEAKING)
AIDOS LTD.
8 Racho Dimchev St. (inner house), 1000 Sofia
t. 02 981 30 82
info@aidosbg.com
www.aidosbg.com
APARTMENT HOUSES
APARTMENT HOUSE BULGARIA
16 Nevestina Skala St., Borovo, 1680 Sofia
t. +359 2 818 41 41, f. +359 2 818 42 43
office@apartmenthousebulgaria.com
www.apartmenthousebulgaria.com
www.fpihotels.com
APARTMENT HOUSE IZTOK
6, Atanas Dalchev St., Iztok, 1113 Sofia
t. +359 2 970 01 00, f. +359 2 970 01 28
office@apartmenthouseiztok.bg
www.apartmenthouseiztok.bg
BED & BREAKFAST
THE RED HOUSE / RED B&B
15, Ljuben Karavelov St., 1142 Sofia
m. +359 889 226 822
info@redbandb.com
www.redbandb.com
BOWLING ALLEYS
GALAXY BOWLING
National Palace of Culture - Administrative
Building. Entrance from Vitosha Blvd.
t. 02 916 6590
galaxybowling@galaxybowling.bg
CHAUFFERED CAR SERVICES
MY WAY CAR
t. +359 888 642465
t. +359 888 542913
info@mywaycar.com
www.mywaycar.com
COMPUTER SERVICES
CREATIVE CENTRE
Authorised Apple reseller
and service provider
The Needle Building
37A, Fritjof Nansen Blvd, 1000 Sofia
t. 02 946 33 50, m. +359 88953 0000
www.creativecenter.bg
AIRPORT INFORMATION
www.sofia-airport.bg
INTERNATIONAL ARRIVALS
02 937 2212
INTERNATIONAL DEPARTURES
02 937 2211
DOMESTIC FLIGHTS
02 937 2213
LOST LUGGAGE
02 937 2491, 02 937 3554, 02 937 3555
CENTRAL RAILWAY STATION
02 932 3333
INTERNATIONAL BUS STATION
0900 2100 (24 hour)
1868 (Mtel, Globul)
PHONE LINES
WATERWORKS
ELECTRICITY
CENTRAL HEATING
UTILITY PROBLEMS
0700 17 000
0700 121 21
0700 10 010
02 951 5258
ALL SERVICES
Ambulance
Fire
Police
Traffic Police
Road Side Assistance
Crime Hotline
EMERGENCY NUMBERS
112
150
160
166
02 982 2723
91 146
02 982 2212
53
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www.inyourpocket.com/bulgaria
DIPLOMATIC MISSIONS Address tel./fax
ALBANIA 10 Krakra St. 02 943 3857
ALGERIA 16 Slavianska St. 02 980 2250
ARGENTINA 36 Dragan Tsankov Blvd. 02 971 2539
AUSTRALIAN CONSULATE 37 Trakia St. 02 946 1334, fax: 02 946 1704
AUSTRIA 4 Shipka St. 02 932 9032
BELGIUM 1 VelchovaZavera Sq. 02 988 7290
BRAZIL 19 Juliot Curie St., bl. 156/1 02 971 9819
CHINA 7 Alexander von Humbolt St. 02 973 3873
CROATIA 32 Veliko Tarnovo St. 02 943 3225
CUBA 1 Konst. Shturkelov St. 02 872 2014
CYPRUS 1A, Plachkovitsa St. 02 961 7731
CZECH REPUBLIC 9 Yanko Sakasov Blvd. 02 946 1111
DENMARK 54 Dondukov Blvd. 02 917 0100
EGYPT 5 6th September St. 02 987 0215
ESTONIA 26-30 Bacho Kiro St. 02 937 9900, 02 937 9909
EUROPEAN UNION 9 Moskovska St. 02 933 5252
FINLAND 26/28 Bacho Kiro St. 02 8102110
FRANCE 29 Oborishte St. 02 965 1100
GERMANY 25 Juliot Curie St. 02 918 380; visas: 02 918 38109
GREECE 33 San Stefano St. 02 843 3085
HUNGARY 57 6th September St. 02 963 1135
INDIA 23 Sveti Sedmochislenitsi St. 02 963 5676
INDONESIA 5 Yosef Vadhard St. 02 962 5240
IRELAND 26-30 Bacho Kiro St. 02 985 3425, fax:02 983 3302
ISRAEL 1 Bulgaria Blvd. 7th floor 02 951 5044
ITALY 2 Shipka St. 02 921 7300
JAPAN 14 Lyulyakova Gradina 02 971 2708
KOREA (REPUBLIC OF) 36 Dragan Tsankov Blvd. 02 971 2181, 02 971 2536
KUWAIT 53 Simeonovsko Shosse 02 962 5689
Residence 15 02 962 5209
LEBANON Juliot Curie Block 155 02 971 2723
MOROCCO 1 Chervena Stena St., ent.1 02 865 1137
NETHERLANDS 15 Oborishte St. 02 816 0300, fax:02 816 0301
NORWAY 26-30, Bacho Kiro str. 02 803 6100, fax:02 803 6199
POLAND 46 Han Krum St. 02 987 2610
ROMANIA 4 Sitnyakovo Blvd. 02 971 2858
RUSSIA 28 Dragan Tsankov Blvd. 02 963 0912/14
SLOVAK REPUBLIC 9 Yanko Sakazov Blvd. 02 942 9210
SOUTH AFRICA 26 Bacho Kiro St., fl. 2 02 981 66 82, fax:02 981 5776
SPAIN 27 Sheinovo St. 02 943 3034, 02 943 3032
SWITZERLAND 33 Shipka St. 02 942 0100
TURKEY 80 Vasil Levski Blvd. 02 935 5500
UKRAINE 29 Boriana St. 02 955 9478
UNITED KINGDOM 9 Moskovska St. 02 933 9222
UNITED STATES OF AMERICA 16 Koziak St. 02 937 5100
VENEZUELA 12 Narodno Sabranie Sq. 02 987 0341
54
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HOTELS
YOU CAN FIND SOFIA THE INSIDERS GUIDE
EXCLUSIVELY IN THE BEDROOMS OF THE HOTELS
MARKED WITH AN ASTERISK AND AT THE
RECEPTION DESK OF ALL OTHER HOTELS LISTED
HERE.

ARENA DI SERDICA RESIDENCE HOTEL


*

2-4 Budapest St.
t. +359 2 810 77 77
f. +359 2 810 77 70
reservations@arenadiserdica.com
www.arenadiserdica.com, www.fpihotels.com
GRAND HOTEL SOFIA
1 Gurko St.
t. +359 2 811 0 800
f. +359 2 811 0 801
reservations@grandhotelsofia.bg
www.grandhotelsofia.bg
HILTON SOFIA
*

1 Bulgaria Blvd.
t. +359 2 933 5000
f. +359 2 933 5111
Reservations.Sofia@hilton.com
www.hilton.bg
RADISSON BLU GRAND HOTEL
4 Narodno Sabranie Sq.
t. + 359 2 933 4334
f. + 359 2 933 4335
info.sofia@radissonsas.com
www.radissonsas.com
SHERATON SOFIA HOTEL BALKAN
*
5 Sveta Nedelya Sq.
t. +359 2 981 6541
f. +359 2 980 6464
sofia.sheraton@
luxurycollection.com

CRYSTAL PALACE BOUTIQUE HOTEL
*

14 Shipka St.
t. +359 2 9 489 489
f. +359 2 9 489 490
reservations@crystalpalace-sofia.com
www.crystalpalace-sofia.com
www.fpihotels.com
HOTEL HILL
76B James Bourchier Blvd., Lozenetz, Sofia
t. +359 2 806 55 55, f. +359 2 806 55 00
hotel@hillhotel-sofia.com
www.hillhotel-sofia.com
www.fpihotels.com
HOTEL LES FLEURS
21 Vitosha Blvd., Sofia, 1000
t. +359 2 8 100 800
f. +359 2 8 100 801
office@lesfleurshotel.com
reservation@lesfleurshotel.com
PARK INN BY RADISSON SOFIA
36, Atanas Dukov St.
t. +359 2 861 57 00
f. +359 2 861 57 10
info.sofia@rezidorparkinn.com
www.parkinn.com/hotel-sofia
SOFIA PRINCESS HOTEL
131, Maria Louisa Blvd.
t. +359 2 9338 888
f. +359 2 9338 777
sales.sofia@bgprincess.com
www.bgprincess.com
VITOSHA PARK HOTEL
1 Rosario St., Sofia 1700
t. + 359 2 816 88 88
f. + 359 2 962 29 25
reservations@vitoshaparkhotel.com
www.VitoshaParkHotel.com


ARTE HOTEL
5 Dondukov Blvd.
t. 02 402 7100
f. 02 402 7109
reception@artehotelbg.com
www.artehotelbg.com
HOTEL GORUBLIANSKO HANCHE
357 Tsarigradsko shose Blvd.
t. +359 2 973 6246
m. +359 888 004 820
f. +359 2 979 1746
reservations@hotelgorublianskohanche.com
www.hotelgorublianskohanche.com
HOTEL NIKY
16, Neofit Rilski St.,
t. 02 952 30 58, 02 953 01 10
f. 02 951 60 91
office@hotel-niky.com
www.hotel-niky.com

*
55
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www.inyourpocket.com/bulgaria
HOTEL ZENITH
81 Lyuben Karavelov St., Sofia
t. +359 2 986 22 03, 986 22 06
986 22 09
f. +359 2 981 13 49
hotelzenith@abv.bg
www.hotelzenith.net
LOW-COST HOTELS
EASYHOTEL SOFIA
108 Aldomirovska Street
t. +359 2 920 16 54
f. +359 2 822 82 15
enquiries@sofia.easyhotel.com
www.easyhotel.com
www.easyhotel-sofia.bg
LANGUAGE CLASSES
EXCELLENCE LANGUAGE LEARNING
36 Iskar St., floor 4
t. 02 983 49 50, m. 0878 39 23 51 (0878 excel1)
www.excellence.bg
info@excellence.bg
STUDY IN BG EDUCATIONAL CENTRE
145 Rakovski St. Entr.G, ground floor
(entrance from Gurko St.)
t. 02 986 69 73, m. 0884 63 21 22
www.studyinbg.com
info@studyinbg.com
MEDICAL CENTRE AND HOSPITAL
VITA
9 Dragovitza St.
t. 02 943 4398
f. 02 944 1343
www.vita.bg
MOVING COMPANIES
ALLIED PICKFORDS BULGARIA
Business Park Sofia,
Building 12B, fl 1, 1766 Sofia
t. + 359 2 807 6683
f. + 359 2 807 6689
movers@allied.bg, www.allied.bg
CORSTJENS WORLDWIDE MOVERS GROUP
59 Kostenski Vodopad St., 1404 Sofia
t. 02 958 9721, 088 892 3570, t./f. 02 958 9721
info.sofia@corstjens.com
www.corstjens.com
REAL ESTATE
ANIMA-M
Real Estate Consultants
75, Patriarh Evtimii Blvd., fl. 2
t./f. +359 2 953 17 66
t. +359 2 852 06 53
anima_m@realtor.bg, office@anima-mbg.com
www.anima-mbg.com
CENTURY 21 GALARDO
The worlds largest real
estate agency organization
202, Cherni Vrah Blvd.
t. +359 2 821 21 21
galardo@century21.bg
www.century21galardo.com
CLEVES LUXURY APARTMENT RENTALS
Sophisticated rental
apartments
in the most convenient
areas of Sofia
16C St Pimen Zografski St.
t. 0700 17 008
office@cleves.bg
www.cleves.bg
EL-EM REAL ESTATE AGENCY
Always with
a good solution
21A, Dondoukov Blvd.
t. + 359 2 986 80 10; t./f. + 359 2 986 80 20
m. + 359 885 406 349
el-em@el-em.net
www.el-em.net
SOFIA CASA LTD.
PROPRETY MANAGEMENT & LETTINGS
Passion for Bulgarian
property since 2004!
The original British
owned full service
estate agent in Sofia!
42 Vladayska St., fl.2, ap.4
m. + 359 897 684 208
+ 359 896 670 507
t./f. + 359 2 953 01 16
Twitter: @insidebulgaria @sofiacasa
info@sofiacasa.com
www.sofiacasa.com
56
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RELOCATION SERVICES
MATRIX RELOCATIONS - BULGARIA
(Full member of Inter
Relocation Group) Delivering
professional relocation solutions
to expatriates since 1991.
Building 12, Business Park Sofia, 1766 Sofia
+359 2 807 6633 (o),
+359 2 807 6639 (f)
SCHOOLS AND KINDERGARTEN
ABC KINDERCARE CENTRE
ABC NDK, 25 Knyaz Boris I St.
t. 02 434 1082
ABC Lozenets, 27 Hr. Smirnenski Blvd.
t. 02 434 1119
abckinder@carebg.org
www.abckinder.org
AMERICAN COLLEGE OF SOFIA
Campus Office: Sanders Hall,
Floyd Black Lane, Mladost 2, Sofia 1799
Mailing Address: P.O. Box 873, Sofia 1000
t. +359 2 434 1008, 434 1010, 434 1011
f. +359 2 434 1009
acs@acs.bg
www.acs.bg
INTERNATIONAL CHILDRENS CREATIVITY FOUNDATION
Dragalevtzi - Simeonovo, 36 Vaklinets St.
t. 02 967 31 12
office@iccf-bg.com
www.iccf-bg.com
LITTLE STEPS LEARNING CENTRE
Simeonovo, 16, 54th Street
t. 02 961 4906, m. 0895 700 605
office@littlesteps.bg
www.littlesteps.bg
MONTESSORI CHILDRENS HOUSE
6 Yana Yazova St., 1164 Sofia
m. + 359 884 032 852
t. + 359 2 962 27 48
office@montessori-bulgaria.com
www.montessori-bulgaria.com
TAXI (all reputable)
OK SUPERTRANS t. 02 973 2121
TAXI-S-EXPRESS t. 02 9 12 80
YELLOW t. 02 911 19
TRAVEL AGENCIES
HRG BULGARIA
Jamadvice Travel Ltd.
5 Asen Zlatarov St.
t. 02 943 3011, 02 944 1520, f. 02 946 1261
mark@bg.hrgworldwide.com
www.hrgworldwide.com
VETS
BLUE CROSS ANIMAL
HOSPITAL (24 HOURS)
& BOARDING KENNELS
1 Chereshova Gradina St.
Pancharevo district
For regular check ups please make an appointment.
t. 02 979 0935
m. 0898 361903 (emergency calls)
www.bluecrossbg.com

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