AC Sample Issue

adventure cycling association special issue www.adventurecycling.org $4.
95
travel stori es i nspi rati on cycli ng resources
Adventure
CyClist
e
n
J
O
y

y
O
u
r

F
r
e
e

i
s
s
u
e
!
plus:
bike touring 101
traversing cuba
lost in tHe lone star state
going tHe distance:
From Commuter
to Tourist
ADVENTURE CYCLI S T S PECI AL I S S UE ADVENTURECYCLI NG. ORG 2
BE AN
ADVENTURE
CYCLIST
Join Now For These Great Membership Benefts:
Adventure Cyclist magazine Cyclists Travel Guide: Bikes, Resources, How-To Discounts on our bicycle maps
Te best bike routes in North America Members-only enjoyable group cycling tours Outreach programs to make
bicycling and bike travel more accessible and popular.
Adventure Cycling Route Network
Over 41,000 miles of routes.
To join go to www.adventurecycling.org
Adventure Cycling Associations mission is to inspire people of all ages to travel by bicycle and to help cyclists explore
the landscapes and history of America for ftness, fun, and self-discovery. We do this by creating bike routes for the
nation, getting Americans bicycling, and supporting bicycling communities. Adventure Cycling is a 501(c)3 non-proft.
A
A
R
O
N

T
E
A
S
D
A
L
E
Special Issue contents
d e pArt me nt s
06
WAYPOINTS
34
GEARED UP
38
COmPANIONS WANTED
39
OPEN ROAD GALLERY
l e t t e r s
04
LETTER from the DIRECTOR
05
LETTERS from our READERS
COl u mns
30
mEChANICAL ADVANTAGE / Jan Heine
A review of todays bicycle lighting options
32
CYCLISTS kITChEN / Nancy Clark
Protein and cyclists: How much do you need?
36
CYCLESENSE / John Schubert
The 10-speed experiments
08
LOST IN ThE LONE STAR STATE by Laura Crawford and Russ Roca
Texas hasnt been on the radar of many bike travelers, but it should be.
14
TRAVERSING CUBA by Matthew Kadey
While governments remain mired in the past, cyclists are finding a jewel in the Caribbean.
18
FROm COmmUTER TO TOURIST by Brendan Leonard
One mans journey from utility cycling to the freedom of bicycle travel.
24
mCkENzIE PASS REVISITEDbyWillie Weir
Companions return to an earlier adventure.
28
BICYCLE TRAVEL 101 by Adventure Cycling Staff
Let Adventure Cyclings accumulated knowledge lead you down the road or trail.
is published nine times each year by
the Adventure Cycling Association,
a nonprofit service organization for
recreational bicyclists. Individual
membership costs $40 yearly to U.S.
addresses and includes a subscrip-
tion to Adventure Cyclist, including
the Cyclists Travel Guide, and dis-
counts on Adventure Cycling maps.
The entire contents of Adventure
Cyclist are copyrighted by Adventure
Cyclist and may not be reproduced
in whole or in part without written
permission from Adventure Cyclist.
All rights reserved.
Our COver
horst hammerschmidt snapped this
surreal scene of riders gliding on the
Salar de Uyuni, the worlds largest
salt lake, located in Bolivia.
(left) Cyclists on Adventure Cyclings
Colorado Alpine Loop tour celebrate
at the top of Engineer Pass.
missiOn
The mission of Adventure Cycling
Association is to inspire people of all
ages to travel by bicycle. We help
cyclists explore the landscapes and
history of America for fitness, fun,
and self-discovery.
CAmpAiGns
Our strategic plan includes three
major campaigns:
Creating Bike Routes for America
Getting Americans Bicycling
Supporting Bicycling Communities
How to reach us
To join, change your address, or ask
questions about membership, visit us
online at www.adventurecycling.org
or call (800) 755-2453 or (406) 721-1776
email:
memberships@adventurecycling.org
Subscription Address:
Adventure Cycling Association
P.O. Box 8308
missoula, mT 59807
Headquarters:
Adventure Cycling Association
150 E. Pine St.
missoula, mT 59802
T
O
M

G
O
R
D
O
N
Printed on 30% Recycled Fiber
A
A
R
O
N

T
E
A
S
D
A
L
E
ADVENTURE CYCLI S T S PECI AL I S S UE ADVENTURECYCLI NG. ORG 4 ADVENTURE CYCLI S T S PECI AL I S S UE ADVENTURECYCLI NG. ORG 5
who have read this magazine,
used our website, or talked
with our staff and volunteers,
and have taken that first big
step toward traveling by bike
whether its a quick bike
overnight trip or something
more challenging, like a week, a
month, or even a year (!) on the
road.
I have met even more cyclists
who already travel by bike, but
want to keep the fire burning by
reading the stories of others; sharing
journals through our web-based Ride
Registry; buying maps to study (and
dream about) during those short, gray
days of winter; learning about new
products and travel techniques; or meet-
ing fellow riders at one of our member
gatherings, through our social media net-
works like Facebook, or on our guided
tours.
And then I have met the remarkable
people (now were talking thousands)
who travel by bicycle because it has
fundamentally changed their lives by
giving them a sense of freedom, intro-
ducing them to their future spouse or
best friend, leading them down a new
career path, or rejuvenating their faith in
humanity.
Whatever their reasons for joining,
nearly 45,000 people have decided to
make Adventure Cycling a part of their
lives and that number increases every
year. When you join, you get nine issues
of Adventure Cyclist (truly one of the
best travel magazines around), access to
the digital Cyclists Yellow Pages (the best
guide to global bike travel resources),
discounted maps to adventures across
North America, and access to affordable
and personally-enriching tours. Perhaps
best of all, you get to belong to a large,
big-hearted community of people not
just cyclists, but people who are seeking
fun, fitness, and self-discovery on one
of the greatest, most endearing vehicles
ever invented: the bicycle.
Please flip through these pages, check
out our website, dip into our social
media sites, and come explore the magic
of bicycle travel. You never know what
youll find on the next page or just
over that hill.
Sincerely,
Jim Sayer
Executive Director
jsayer@adventurecycling.org
Letter from the Director
As director of Adventure Cycling Association, I
definitely have an interest in encouraging you
to join as a member. But to be honest, I have also
witnessed the magic that can come with membership in our
unique organization. I have met hundreds of individuals
Adventure
CyClist
WHy JOin?
The magic of membership in North Americas
largest cycling group
Special Issue
WWW. ADVENTURECYCLI NG. ORG
edi tor
mI ChAEL DEmE
mDEmE@ADVENTURECYCLI NG. ORG
art di rector
GREG S I PLE
GS I PLE@ADVENTURECYCLI NG. ORG
t ecHni cal edi tor
J OhN S ChUBERT
S ChUBLEY@AOL. COm
F i el d edi tor
mI ChAEL mCCOY
mmCCOY@ADVENTURECYCLI NG. ORG
cont ri but i ng wri t ers
DAN D' AmBROS I O NANCY CLARk
WI LLI E WEI R J AN hEI NE
PATRI Ck O' GRADY
copy edi tor
PhYLLI S PI CkLES I mER
advert i si ng di rector
RI Ck BRUNER
5 0 9 . 4 9 3 . 4 9 3 0
ADVERTI S I NG@ADVENTURECYCLI NG. ORG
staFF
e xecut i ve di rector
J I m S AYER
J S AYER@ADVENTURECYCLI NG. ORG
cHi eF operat i ons oFF i cer
S hEI LA S NYDER, CPA
membersHi p & devel opment
J ULI E hUCk AmANDA LI PS EY
AmY CORBI N J OS hUA TACk
ThOmAS BAS S ETT ALEx CAmPBELL
medi a
WI NONA BATEmAN mI ChAEL mCCOY
ALI S ON RI LEY
publ i cat i ons
mI ChAEL DEmE GREG S I PLE
DEREk GALLAGhER RAChEL S TEVENS
i nFormat i on t ecHnol ogy
J OhN S I EBER RI ChARD DARNE
J OhN EI kENS
tours
ARLEN hALL mO mI S LI VETS
PAUL hANSBARGER mADELI NE mCkI DDY
rout e s and mappi ng
CARLA mAJ ERNI k J ENNI F ER mI LYkO
VI RGI NI A S ULLI VAN CAS EY GREENE
NAThAN TAYLOR mELI S S A ThOmPS ON
sal e s and market i ng
TERI mALOUGhNEY
cycl osource
TED BOWmAN S ARAh RAz
oFF i ce manager
BETh PETERS EN
board oF di rectors
pre si dent
CAROL YORk
vi ce pre si dent
WALLY WERNER
secretary
ANDY BAUR
t re asurer
ANDY hUPPERT
board members
J AS ON BOUChER TODD COPLEY
J ENNI F ER GARS T GEORGE mENDES
J EF F mI LLER DONNA O' NEAL
trying new things
The August/September 2011 article by
Willie Weir Uncomfortable reminded
me of my first bicycle tour. I had never
ridden more than 35 flat miles on my
Sears three-speed. I read an article about
cycling the Natchez Trace so I bought
a Bianchi Advantage at a going-out-of-
business sale from a local bike shop. I did
one ride around the Vicksburg battlefield
in order to get in shape for the ride which
would average 65 miles a day for 13 days,
with camping each night. The tour was
led by Adventure Cycling in the early
1980s. We had a SAG wagon for our
tents and gear, and 15 of us started out,
stopping the first night in a field behind
Bubbas Bar B Que. There was one toilet
and no showers for all of us. Yes, this was
a little out of my comfort zone as the only
camping I had done was in Fort Dix, New
Jersey, when I was in the army. I sur-
vived and have been touring ever since.
The only change I now ride a Tour
Easy recumbent.
Francis Celino
Metairie, Louisiana
dont forget rodriguez
Your list of touring bikes, and specifically
tandems, omits one of the very best: The
Rodriguez take apart tandem from R&E
Cycles in Seattle is perfect for overseas as
well as continental U.S. touring. We have
one and have completed five lengthy over-
seas trips. The model we have is a Travel
Toucan which we had equipped with
26-inch wheels so one can mount large tires
if the conditions are likely to be unpaved
and wide-range grip shifting for easy gear
selection in rough conditions. It breaks
down via S&S Couplers and packs in two
airline-legal cases. Its an ideal touring tan-
dem bike. It has plenty of rack mounts for
panniers and the handling seems to be ideal
for bike trails as well as the cobblestones
and narrow roads of Europe.
Larry Swanson
Salt Lake City, Utah
mr. Hosteling
I enjoyed reading Bill Nelson: mr.
hosteling by June J. Siple in the
February issue. As teenagers vaguely
aware of Bikecentennial in the summer of
1976, two friends and I loaded our bikes
for our first multi-day bike tour from
Long Island to massachusetts. We spent
our first night at the Bantam Lake Youth
hostel in Connecticut. Little did we know
we were staying at a hostel started by
someone who was already at the heart of
the burgeoning bicycle-touring boom in
the U.S. Im still riding and touring today,
and the article reignited a desire to use
my experience and passion to encourage
and inspire others in the community to
get out there and experience the thrills
that come from traveling by bicycle!
Greg Hoffman
Ozark, Missouri
try a bike overnight
After a long absence, I renewed my mem-
bership with Adventure Cycling. i just
read the march issue of the magazine
and discovered your bikeovernights.org
through Jill homers column. Gosh, what
a fantastic idea, and the Bike Overnights
blog (bikeovernights.org) is so fresh and
fun to read. I recently started camping
and have done short overnight trips. I
never thought of doing the same on a
bike. Count me as one of those folks who
thought bike touring was synonymous
with epic, week-long trips. I cant wait to
try a bike overnight. Thank you for the
inspiration and the great resources on
your blog.
Anita Tyler
Edgewood, Maryland
Remembering a first tour, recognizing Rodriguez
roaming inspired, riding overnight
MAPS, MAPS, MAPS
North Americas best bicycle maps
Over 41,000 miles of cyclist-created routes
MAPS FEATURE: Turn-by-turn directions, elevation profiles, camping, lodging,
bike shops, riding conditions, and more. www.adventurecycling.org/routes
Your letters are welcome. Due to the volume of mail
and email we receive, we cannot print every letter.
We may edit letters for length and clarity. If you do
not want your comments to be printed in Adventure
Cyclist, please state so clearly. Please include your
name and address with your correspondence. Email
your comments, questions, or letters to editor@
adventurecycling.org or mail to Editor, Adventure
Cyclist, P.O. Box 8308, Missoula, MT 59807.
Letters from our Readers
News you can use from the world of bicycle travel by Michael McCoy
WayPoints
the new book Cyclepedia
(from thames & Hudson in
europe and chronicle Books
in north america), is a visual
exploration of the bicycle, cen-
tering on 100 iconic models
from the past 100 years. the
book features the unusual and
the groundbreaking bicycles
of unexpected beauty, inspired
design, and sometimes short-
lived (or never-lived) popularity.
the 100 bikes included are
grouped by type, although
some fall under more than one
category: mountain, racing,
singlespeed, touring, kids,
tandems, urban, folding, cargo,
and curiosities. among the
three dozen bicycles falling
under the touring category are
a stunning ultralight aluminum
bike from France known as the
Mercier Mecadural pelissier
(circa 1950); a Bob Jackson
2002 super legend custom
tourer (one of only 120 made);
an alex Moulton speedsix
17-inch-wheel bike from 1965;
and a most peculiar-looking
1939 recumbent out of France
called the sironval sportplex.
Time Out London had this to
say in a review of Cyclepedia,
calling it a sumptuous collec-
tion of machines that power-
fully illustrates not only the
engineering precision man has
poured into the bicycle in the
last century and a quarter, but
also the design and artistry.
anyone who respects the lore,
history, and beauty of bicycles
needs a copy of this book.
without a doubt, this book
was made for permanent
residence on your coffee table.
the photos alone, which just
about anyone would enjoy, are
worth the price of admission.
also included are detailed
technical specifications that
will make even the dedicated
collector and hard-core techy
squeal with joy. so look for it
at your favorite bookstore or
your favorite online vendor.
CYCLEPEDIA
Beautiful book shows bicycle design over time
ByWAys And
BiKeWAys
youve no doubt heard of sce-
nic byways but have you heard
of scenic bikeways? Maybe not,
since oregon is apparently the
only state to have designated
such routes.
as reported by Jonathan
Maus of Bikeportland.org, the
oregon parks and recreation
department commission
recently voted unanimously
to designate three new state
scenic Bikeways bringing the
total to four, and the new routes
join the existing willamette
valley scenic Bikeway.
the trio of new routes are
the 108-mile Blue Mountain
century, the 106-mile three
sisters Bikeway, and the
179-mile old west Bikeway,
which shares itself with the
transamerica Bicycle trail in
the John day area.
each route comes with a
marketing plan and the full
support from city officials,
reported Maus. routes are
nominated by local communi-
ties and are then put through
a rigorous application process
approved and adopted
routes use existing roads and
paths and, while they dont
come with bike-specific infra-
structure improvements, they
receive turn-by-turn signs.
according to terry richard
of The Oregonian, tourism
promoters expect it to draw
cyclists from around the world
as word spreads and the pro-
gram grows.
visit oregonscenicbikeways.
org to learn more.
U.S. BICYCLE RoUtE SYStEm
Connecting people, communities, and the nation
adventure cycling is working
with national, state, local and
nonprofit leaders to create what
will likely be the largest official
cycling network in the world
a u.s. Bicycle route system
(usBrs) with the sup-
port of our members and the
sraM cycling Fund, surdna
Foundation, lazar Foundation,
new Belgium Brewery, tawani
Foundation, and the american
association of state Highway
and transportation officials
(aasHto). the good news is
that this system will help cre-
ate better riding conditions and
more visibility for cycling in all
parts of the u.s.
the system is developing
through partnerships between
bicycle and trail advocates and
state and local transportation
authorities. the interstate routes
are submitted to aasHto for
cataloging and number designa-
tions. adventure cycling began
providing staff support in 2005
and now provides extensive
technical assistance to agen-
cies and cycling/trail volunteers
across the nation.
since aasHto approved
the national plan that states
are using to coordinate route
development, theres been
significant movement by states
to transform broadly defined
corridors into specific routes
that connect urban, suburban,
and rural areas. leadership var-
ies from state to state. in some
states, cycling advocates are
developing routes and coor-
dinating efforts with the state
transportation agency. in other
states, the state agency is lead-
ing while collaborating closely
with volunteers from cycling/
trail organizations and the local
communities.Finally, some
states are forming work teams
made up of agency stakehold-
ers and the cycling and trail
community. while some routes
being developed are completely
new, others are existing routes
and include state or regional
networks and the integration of
adventure cyclings 41,399-
mile route network. excitingly,
new routes were designated by
aasHto in the spring of 2011.
these include usBr 20 across
central Michigan and usBr 1
in Maine and new Hampshire.
in alaska routes that link ferry
ports and national parks were
also designated: usBr 8, 108,
208, 95, 87, and 97. virginia
updated portions of usBr 1
(on the atlantic coast Bicycle
route), moving the route to
roads with less traffic or with
bicycle facilities. progress
continues in other states as
well, with usBr corridors
being recognized in bike plans
and policies or route criteria
being developed by agencies.
impressively, there are 41 states
plus the district of columbia
working at some level on u.s.
Bicycle routes. while many are
only in the planning phase, a
great number are transforming
the corridors into routes and will
be nominating these within the
next couple of years.
in addition, the system has
drawn the interest of key nation-
al leaders, like representative
peter deFazio, a leader on
the u.s. House committee
on transportation, and u.s.
transportation secretary ray
laHood, who is blogging
periodically about usBrs
progress. while the system is
relatively inexpensive to develop,
incentive funding for states to
further plan, sign, and develop
facilities along the routes will
create a system more in line
with the effective and popular
networks created in europe and
canada.
to learn more about the
efforts to create the largest
official bike route system in the
world, visit www.adventure
cycling.org/usbrs.
BiKe
OverniGHts
if you havent already done
so, you should check out
adventure cyclings Bike
overnights website at bike
overnights.org. an ever-
growing number of one- and
two-night (and sometimes
longer) overnight adventures
appear on the site, contributed
by rider-writer-photographers
from new york to new
Zealand although so far the
majority are from the conti-
nental u.s. adventure cycling
writer/media specialist Michael
Mccoy, who is overseeing and
organizing the site, says hed
like to receive write-ups from
all of the states not yet repre-
sented.
so far, we have several
rides from texas, washington,
and california, Mac says,
along with one to three rides
from maybe 17 other states.
wed really like to see some-
thing from Hawaii, alaska,
iowa, Florida to check out
which states are and are not
represented, go to the Bike
overnights home page and
view the categories list on
the right-hand side of your
screen.
i believe this program has
the potential to inspire hun-
dreds, maybe thousands of
new bicycle travelers, Mac
adds. and if someone tries
out an overnight, he or she
might be on the road to a
future cross-country ride. or
not theres nothing wrong
with sticking to the shorter
rides. we just want to see
people out there doing it!
a couple of representative
Bike overnight titles include
seeking comfort from the
Heat in comfort, texas and
embracing a childs pace:
Multi-day Bike trip on the erie
canal.
were also beefing up the
non-ride-description content
of the site, Mac says. youll
begin seeing more and more
gear reviews, how-to info,
travel tips, and camp-meal
recipes.
T
Y
L
E
R

K
E
L
L
E
N
Lost in the Lone Star State
by laura crawford and russ roca
teXas - 2
Texas is perhaps one of the least likely
bicycle touring destinations in the U.S.
When imagining Texas, a cyclists head is
filled with the image of angrily speeding
drivers in pick-up trucks, and endless days
of sandy desert and cactus. Weve all heard
the myriad negative stereotypes and, due
to its sheer immensity, simply crossing the
state is a feat in itself. For us, however,
riding through the Lone Star State was
one of the great highlights of our recent
15-month, 10,000-mile trek around the U.S.
What makes Texas so great is precisely
the fact that it is so big and varied. Far
West Texas is completely different from
the hill Country, which itself is entirely
different from East Texas and the Gulf,
and the Plains of the North. Lumping the
state into one dry, sandy image does it a
great disservice. In this one state, you can
experience a wide range of culture, nature,
food, and people. Texas also has an incred-
ible network of roads, which means its
easy to find a quiet one thats perfect for
cycling. Because Texas is so large, wed like
to offer up our two favorite regions to get
you started in planning your own Texas
cycling adventure.
Far West Texas
This part of Texas is the dusty hidden
gem of the state, sandwiched between New
mexico and mexico. As one of the most
remote parts of America, it is vast, empty,
quiet, and full of that desert cowboy imag-
ery. Far West Texas can be a difficult place
that will push you and demand awareness
and preparation. You will often encounter
long, desolate stretches with very few, if
any, services. Despite the sometimes chal-
lenging conditions, it is also one of the most
fascinating corners of the country and will
introduce you to some of the friendliest
people youll ever meet.
We entered Far West Texas near
Guadalupe (pronounced Guad-a-loop)
mountains National Park (on highway 180-
62), just across the border from Carlsbad,
New mexico. The park features the highest
point in Texas (8,751 feet), so its well worth
the stop. Unlike many National Parks with
camping in style. Laura prepares a meal at one of the many excellent campgrounds in the Texas State Park system.
P
e
co
s R
iv
e
r
R
i
o

G
r
a
n
d
e

Carlsbad Caverns NP
Pedernales
SP
Guadalupe
Mountains NP
Big Bend NP
AUSTIN
SAN ANTONIO
FT WORTH
ALPINE
KERRVILLE
FREDERICKSBURG
GLEN ROSE
GRANBURY
LUCKENBACH
VAN HORN
VALENTINE
MARATHON
TERLINGUA
MARFA
EL PASO
T E XAS
ME XI C O
NE W ME XI C O
WE S T
T E XAS
NORT H- C E NT RAL
T E XAS
P
L
A
I
N
S

O
F

T
H
E

N
O
R
T
H
H
I
L
L

C
O
U
N
T
R
Y
c
a
s
e
y

g
r
e
e
n
e
teXas - 2
paved roads that traverse the reserve,
Guadalupe has no vehicle infrastructure. If
you want to explore it, you have to hike in.
Even without the hikes, however, you can
get a sweeping view of the valley below
from the visitor center and campground.
From Guadalupe mountains National
Park, head south on highway 54 into the
small town of Van horn, along Adventure
Cyclings Southern Tier Route. If youre
looking for a relaxing refuge from the
desert sun and dusty roads, the hotel El
Capitan is very welcoming to bicycle tour-
ists. Renowned architect henry C. Trost
was responsible for the design of the hotel.
Trost, a midwesterner who moved to El
Paso in 1903, was heavily influenced by
the Chicago School of architecture and
designed many other buildings in Far West
Texas.
From Van horn, you have two options,
highway 90 or Interstate 10 (Cycling on
interstates in Texas is discouraged but not
prohibited.) I-10 has more services along
the way, but we chose to follow highway
90 through the funky little towns of marfa,
Alpine, and marathon, gaining access to
Big Bend National Park. highway 90 is
mostly free of traffic because most travelers
take the interstate, which means that youll
have peaceful riding conditions and youll
need to be very self-sufficient (read: carry
lots of water!).
From Van horn youll ride through the
small town of Valentine. When we passed
through, all the shops had been shut-
tered. All but one public building, the kay
Johnson Library, was closed. This little gem
was financed and built by folks in the area
and also provided an opportunity to get
water. Near Valentine youll stumble upon
the marfa Prada, an art installation made to
look like a Prada retail store, complete with
shoes and handbags from the 2005 Prada
collection. It was met with mixed reactions
when it opened, including being burgled
of all merchandise (the installation no lon-
ger has pairs of shoes, just unmatched
singles).
In marfa youll find a fascinating mix of
New York art lovers and dusty Wrangler-
wearing ranchers. In the 1970s, the mini-
malist artist Donald Judd adopted marfa
as his new hometown. Now marfa is home
to the Judd Foundation and the Chinati
Foundation, which house world-class
modern art. Youll also find some of the
best pizza in the country at the Pizza
Foundation and a hotel where you can
stay in refurbished trailers or a teepee (El
Cosmico).
Next along highway 90 is Alpine, the
largest town in the area. Alpine is home to
an Amtrak station, a fantastic independent
bookstore, and the annual Cowboy Poetry
Festival. It is also the best place to stock up
before heading into Big Bend. Just beyond
Alpine is the tiny town of marathon,
centered around an Old West-style main
Street. Youll now find art galleries, the
Gage hotel, and incredible food and hospi-
tality. There is even a hostel made entirely
from papercrete (a construction method
that utilizes paper and clay), where you can
stay free if youre bike touring.
the rugged west. The roads of Far West Texas provide many a quiet mile for traveling cyclists, like this one in Big Bend National Park.
c
a
s
e
y

g
r
e
e
n
e
teXas - 3
To head into Big Bend from Alpine, ride
south along highway 118. Its approximate-
ly 80 miles, and there are very few oppor-
tunities to stop for the night along the way.
We found ourselves at Cowhead Ranch, a
small replica of a western town run by a
warm-hearted cowboy named Chris, who
hand-built the plywood and corrugated
steel structures to create accommodations
for passing travelers. Cowhead has a small
bathhouse with on-demand hot water and
a saloon with wireless internet!
Continuing on highway 118 will take
you to Study Butte-Terlingua. head west
just a few miles on Fm170 into Terlingua
Ghost Town to soak up some true local
color. Its traditional to have a drink on The
Porch while watching the sun set against
the mountains. Locals and travelers mingle
for impromptu jam sessions and storytell-
ing. Plenty of lodging is nearby, including
the Terlingua Camping hostel, which has
an old school bus that has been converted
into a kitchen/lounge.
For the hardy cyclist, we recommend a
ride into Big Bend National Park and camp-
ing/lodging in Chisos Basin. But be pre-
pared for a challenge. From the main road,
its a five-mile, 2,100-foot climb into Chisos
Basin. Although its tough to get to, its an
amazing place to hike and camp, nestled in
a ring of mountains.
Far West Texas is full of experiences that
we guarantee you will not find anywhere
else. But a word of caution, conditions can
be harsh. Distances between services can
be very long, so plan ahead and be sure you
always carry extra food and water.
The Hill Country & North-Central Texas
The hill Country is roughly located in
the middle of the state and is anchored
on the east by the capital city of Austin.
Youll find quaint towns with German and
shoppers delight. Funky shops adorn Texas. When in Luchenbach, be sure to stock up for the Texas Hat Festival.
prada marfa. A sculpture by Michael Elmgreen and Ingar Dragset outside Valentine, Texas.
teXas - 3
Scandinavian heritage, old stone farmhous-
es, incredible wildflower blooms during
the spring, and plenty of hills to climb. Just
to the north of the hill Country, youll find
yourself surrounded by the rolling plains
of north-central Texas. This is a different
Texas than most of us imagine. Its lush and
green in the spring, peppered with lakes,
and replete with small towns centered
around a courthouse square.
We entered hill Country after months in
the desert and were immediately struck by
the green trees and rushing rivers. After a
long stay in Austin (an amazingly bicycle-
friendly city), we headed west through the
hill Country on a long and roundabout ride
to Fort Worth. Without realizing it, we had
timed our trip through the hill Country
at the peak of the wildflower bloom (in
mid-April). For a true hill Country experi-
ence, we suggest you do the same. Its an
amazing experience to soar down a country
road and breathe in the sweet fragrance of
thousands of bluebonnets, the Texas state
flower.
Our rambles through the hill Country
were punctuated by stops at the numerous
state parks throughout the region. Texas
has an incredible network of these gems
with fantastic camping facilities, so we
highly suggest taking advantage of them. A
few of our favorites, Pedernales Falls, Inks
Lake, and Enchanted Rock, are accessible
by small back roads. One of the highlights
was climbing up to the top of Enchanted
Rock, one of the largest batholiths in the
U.S. (half Dome in Yosemite is another well-
known batholith formation).
The hill Country also boasts a num-
ber of great towns to explore. West of
Austin, youll find Fredericksburg and
kerrville, complete with myriad restau-
rants, museums, and shops. Just south of
Fredericksburg, and way off the beaten
path, youll find a very small town with a
big reputation Luckenbach. The town
was made famous by country music artists
Waylon Jennings and Willie Nelson in a
song of the same name that harkens back
to a simpler life. In Luckenbach we stum-
bled onto the annual Texas hat Festival
and bought a couple of hat pins with the
Texas star for our panniers.
South of Austin, youll find Gruene,
New Braunfels, and Lockhart. Gruene
hall is the oldest dance hall in Texas and
is still a thriving anchor of the commu-
nity. Stay for a show or simply pop in
for a beer and a slice of history. On a hot
summer day, make time for a swim in the
nearby Guadalupe River.
Lockhart is known as the barbecue
capital of Texas and has three famous estab-
lishments vying for supremacy: kreutzs,
Smittys, and Blacks. We flipped a coin
and chose Smittys, located downtown. The
brick walls are black with soot, and the
smell of smoked meat hangs permanently
in the air. In Texas barbecue is synony-
mous with seasoned and expertly smoked
beef brisket. You buy it by the pound,
and your choice of sides includes either
Wonder bread or saltine crackers. Texas
barbecue traditionalists will tell you that
good brisket doesnt need any sauce and
good meat should stand on its own. Despite
that, many establishments are acceding to
the demands of the masses, and sauces are
reluctantly offered.
One of our favorite parts of exploring
the hill Country by bicycle was that its a
popular place for cyclists. Youll no doubt
pass others on bikes enjoying the hills and
scenery, and theyre often happy to share
their favorite routes. When we were tour-
ing through the area, we even ran into an
Adventure Cycling-led group at Pedernales
State Park. having that many cyclists in an
area also means that car drivers are more
aware and accommodating.
heading north you begin to leave hill
Country and start to enter the prairies
and lakes region. The hills gradually
become less severe, and the bluebonnets
are replaced by fields of wild grass. In
the small town of Glen Rose, youll find a
small and revitalized courthouse square,
a historical museum, and a small bak-
ery serving delicious homemade pie. Also
nearby is Solavaca, a private ranch now
open to mountain biking. After using a
bike to repair holes in his fence, the owner
invited friends to ride on his property and
has since begun hosting organized races.
Camping is allowed on a limited basis and
requires advance notification.
Nearby Granbury is also centered
around a revitalized courthouse square
and offers shops, restaurants, galleries, and
museums that will entice you to take a
break. If youre staying the night, take
advantage of the shuttle system. You can
leave your bike in the room and let the
shuttle take you to the town center and
back.
In our rambling travels, we spent three
months exploring Texas and we were con-
tinually delighted and impressed. Our
experiences challenged our preconceived
notions of the Lone Star State. Not only
did we meet friendly people, see beautiful
scenery, and eat delicious local foods, but
the network of farm-to-market roads meant
that we could crisscross the state without
dealing with much traffic. Texas is so large
that its tempting to race through it, just to
get across. For the bike tourist who prefers
to meander and explore, Texas offers a mul-
titude of touring options, from challenging
cycling to epicurean delights.
Russ Roca and Laura Crawford are doing what theyve
always wanted to do an open-ended bicycle tour
and theyve recently incorporated Brompton folding
bikes and trains into their travels. You can find out
more about them at pathlesspedaled.com.
different altogether. Compared to West
Texas, the Hill Country is lush and green.
Photography by
Matthew Kadey
CUBA TRAVERSING
Mountains, coast & culture
1
2 3
M
ore than five decades after
Fidel Castro spearheaded a
revolution, Cuba remains
a politically-charged land
full of contradictions and
misunderstandings. Despite continued
strong feelings surrounding politics (and
American trade and travel restrictions)
Cuba is rapidly gaining cult status among
sun and culture seekers as the jewel
of the Caribbean. Cyclotourists are also
catching on that this island nation 90
miles from key West, Florida, provides
the perfect mixture of scenery, history,
and kind-hearted denizens.
For the cyclist, roads populated only
by the occasional 1950s Cadillac chug-
ging alongside an ox cart, numerous
and welcoming home-stays, charming
cities blissfully free of tourist-oriented
kitsch, and a landscape that varies mar-
velously with each bend in the road, all
makes Cuba an intoxicating option for a
two-wheeled adventure. Where else do
you have opalescent beaches, cathedrals,
and mountains cheek by jowl? All in
a caught-in-a-time-warp setting. Even
today, many more Cubans, young and
aged, use two wheels instead of four.
Spend a couple weeks, or better yet
a few months, cycling in the Caribbeans
largest country, and soon there will be
a little more cha cha cha in your pedal
stroke as you soak in decaying colonial
mansions, passionate domino matches
between cigar-puffing grandpas, and
jungle-covered peaks under bluebird
skies. Cool off after a ride in bathtub-
warm seas or refuel on elephantine
portions of rice, tomatoes, and chicken
dished out by your casa particulares
host. Spend evenings at the ballpark or
sipping mojitos while you get your salsa
on and then learn to embrace the pre-
dawn cacophony of the roosters.
Above all its the spontaneity, indomi-
table spirit, and romantic layers of the
people that make Cuba a worthy addi-
tion to any cycling bucket list. Someday
soon, one only hopes, more U.S. cyclists
will be able to discover what made Ernest
hemingway want to stay here forever.
1. Cubas most impressive coastal ride is located in the isolated Gamma province.
2. Tobacco is a major cash crop in Cubas western Pinar del Rio province. 3. A rare dry-
season downpour brings with it a special gift near Soroa. 4. The cascading pools at Las
Terrazas make for a refreshing post-ride swim.
Photography by
Matthew Kadey
CUBA
4
1. Riding to the seaside town of Baracoa with former Cuban
professional cyclist Frank Correa. 2. Cigars and Cuba are syn-
onymous, especially in Havana. 3. Rider Tabi Ferguson soaks in
the neo-classical architecture of Cienfuegos. 4. Locals gather
up coconuts for thirsty tourists at Playa Ancn. 5. Some of the
worlds best mechanics, including this one in Trinidad, keep
thousands of vintage cars chugging along. Some say Cuba is
the worlds biggest automotive museum. 6. New Years Eve
in Cuba means one thing: pig roast time! 7. Street music is
omnipresent in Havana. 8. A detour is required on the ride to
Soroa in western Cuba. Roads can be hit and miss throughout
the country. 9. Spectacular limestone mogotes dot much of
Cubas Valle de Viales.
1 2
3
4
5
6
7 8
9
6
I was not joking when I told my friend Tony that I wasnt really
that into long bike rides. We were nearing Plaster City, California,
on a bumpy asphalt two-lane road, which was deserted on Super
Bowl Sunday. We had 2,985 miles left to ride on the Adventure
Cycling Associations Southern Tier Route, from San Diego to St.
Augustine, Florida, in 45 days. The math said Id be learning to
like long bike rides. There are so many other things I like to do in
Colorado, its just hard to talk myself into using a Saturday for a
50-mile ride when Im already on my bike five days a week, I told
Tony. he continued to laugh.
I love my bicycle and all the places it takes me in my hometown
of Denver, but thats as far as it went. I had never owned a pair of
cycling shorts or a jersey until a few weeks before our tour started.
I do my daily commute to work and almost everything else within
a three-mile radius of my apartment on an old steel Raleigh, wear-
ing jeans, a backpack, and mountain-bike shoes. The round-trip
ride to my office is about three miles, so why not try 3,000? I sup-
pose you could call that naivet.
When I told my family and friends that Tony and I were plan-
ning to attempt a cross-country ride, half of them eventually said
something like, Youll have a lot of thinking time out there. This,
along with the opportunity to eat 6,000 calories per day, was a
big draw for me. There are few places to really relax in the saddle
for more than a few seconds when riding in a city like Denver.
Almost every street in Capitol hill and downtown holds all kinds
of potential for an accident: car doors swinging open into your
path, pedestrians crossing the street against the signal, cars simply
not seeing cyclists and turning left into them from the opposite
lane or right hooking them across the bike lane. Then there are
potholes and ice.
You learn to keep your brake calipers tight. In four years of
daily commuting, Ive been taken out by a pedestrian, cut off by
cab drivers and bus drivers, confronted by a dozen motorists and
buzzed by dozens more, gotten pinch flats from four-inch-deep
potholes, and crumpled one bike frame when a car backed out of
a blind parking spot in an alley and I crashed into its rear quarter
panel at full speed.
On the open road of the Southern Tier, which began just outside
San Diego for us, it didnt take too long for me to get bored enough
to start talking to cows on the side of the road.
hellooooo, I would moo at them as I pedaled by, and they
watched me suspiciously while munching grass. Sometimes I
would recite old hip-hop lyrics, or ad lib other song lyrics, out of
tune. Sometimes they ran away, not sure what to think of a man
on a bicycle towing a giant trailer. I reassured them that there was
nothing to fear Im a vegetarian.
The Southern Tier is the shortest of the three Adventure Cycling
cross-country routes. Compared to the 4,241-mile TransAmerica
Trail and the 4,285-mile Northern Tier, its only 3,058 miles, but its
the optimal cross-country tour for those who cant take two months
off during the summer. The route hugs the southern border of the
U.S. all the way across, making early spring and fall the best times
to ride. That way youll avoid the skin-baking heat of the desert
Southwest and the oppressive humidity of the Gulf Coast.
There are only three large cities on the entire route: San Diego,
Phoenix, and El Paso. Although we made a point to include San
Antonio and Austin on our itinerary, for the most part, we were
lulled into the rhythm of rural America waitresses who called
everybody hon, communities where everyone knew everyone
else entering or leaving the corner store, and towns where every
local person we talked to wanted to give us directions to the next
town or tell us about a shortcut. The waitress at the restaurant in
Descanso Junction, California, shook her head at us every time
she came to our table, in disbelief that we were going to con-
FrOm COmmuter tO tOurist
FrOm COmmuter tO tOurist
by brendan leonard
tinue riding in the downpour. A retired
couple at the kofa Caf near hope, Arizona,
interviewed us about our ride from their
table, eventually mentioning that they had
motorcycled to the four corners of the
Lower 48, riding a ring around the country
over four months back in the 1980s. They
said it wasnt the scenery they remembered
most; it was the people they met. Joe, a
Walmart associate in DeRidder, Louisiana,
talked to me about bicycles for 15 minutes
one morning while I tried to convince him
to try The Registers Annual Great Bicycle
Ride Across Iowa (RAGBRAI) the next
summer. he had seen and talked to lots of
people on their way through DeRidder on
the Southern Tier, and it had piqued his
curiosity.
I found out almost immediately about
some of the demons of touring things
that a utility cyclist would never think
about. Numb pinky fingers, for instance,
and the daily self-care regimen one must
undertake to avoid saddle sores. my neck
was so sore from holding up the weight of
my head and helmet for eight hours a day
that I began doing yoga poses every night
after we finished riding.
A three-mile commute doesnt exactly
prepare you for something called a head-
wind, either a 30-mPh headwind on
my morning commute might make me 90
seconds late to the office, if that. But we
pulled into Langtry, Texas, on our 23rd
day, hoping the easterly afternoon wind
would let up before our next days ride to
Del Rio, the first place wed see so much as a
grocery store again. Langtry had two small
stores selling candy and soda, but almost
nothing else. If we didnt make it to Del Rio
the next day, we wouldnt be eating dinner.
I slept for two hours and woke up to a
howling wind and the push of the tent wall
against my head. It didnt let up all night,
and I struggled to work up the ambition
to remember which stuff sack my earplugs
were in. Then I worked up the ambition to
unzip my sleeping bag and root around for
them in my BOB trailer bag. I failed. That
morning, we packed up, got on our bikes,
put our heads down, and battled. At five
miles, I stopped and pulled out a small
American flag on a stick and had Tony snap
a photo of me holding it in front of my face,
the flag standing out at a 90-degree angle
from the stick, blowing right at me.
Even on the downhills, I was in my
granny gear. Three days before, we had
been ripping along at 22 mPh with a tail-
wind, sailing into marathon, Texas. After
we left Langtry, it took us 10 hours to pedal
55 miles. We rode the last five miles in com-
plete darkness, then we split three large
pizzas at a hotel in Del Rio. I estimated the
headwind at 30 mPh, and that day became
the answer to the question, What was
your worst day on the trip so far?
There were days like that, which I knew
in my heart were no fun. But I knew that
our tour as a whole was fun, even if I
wouldnt realize it until afterward. Thats
the case, I imagine, when you undertake
something youve always thought about
doing one of those things that comes
into your head every time you take a break
from that spreadsheet and stare out the
window for 30 seconds.
For every endless hour in the saddle,
when it felt like I had to stand up every 10
minutes to keep my butt from going numb,
or every demoralizing flat tire we got
just as we were starting to make good time
there was a convenience-store customer
or a caf waitress to give us a little lift, just
by taking a little interest in our trip.
People seem to be disarmed by two guys
wearing funny clothes and riding fully-
loaded bikes at 12 mPh. As Americans we
would never walk up to another motorist
at a gas station and ask where they were
headed, would we? But if someones foolish
enough to travel by bicycle, many of us feel
its probably worth asking them what the
heck theyre up to. We chatted up all kinds
of folks who asked the usual questions:
Where are you headed? Where did you
start? how many miles do you ride a day?
If people are disarmed by those on
bicycles, they are further disarmed by a
seven-foot-tall Chicago chiropractor on a
bicycle. Tony would be asked how tall he
was by a stranger at least five times a day.
Well, a seven-footer, a woman in the
country store in the retirement community
of Brenda, Arizona, said as Tony paid for
our Gatorade. Sometimes they would wait
until he was out of earshot and theyd ask
me how tall he was. Seven feet, Id say,
and Im five feet 11 inches, but no one
cared.
A cowboy outside a gas station in
Uvalde, Texas, said to me, man, I cant
believe that big guy over there can even
ride a bicycle. Look how tall he is!
It only took us 35 miles of riding to
meet our first friendly cyclists on the route
a shock to a Denverite used to cyclists
divided into five cliques who almost never
mix or even so much as acknowledge
We rode the last five miles in complete
darkness, then we split three large pizzas
at a hotel in Del Rio.
each other: roadies recreational racers,
recreational riders, and triathletes on new
bicycles; hipsters mid- to late-20s kids
who use fixed-gear bikes and fixed-gear
conversions as their only mode of transpor-
tation; messengers the people who have
been riding fixed-gear bikes to work long
before hipsters adopted them; day labor-
ers who only ride bikes to work because
they cant afford a car yet; and people like
me who just ride their bicycles every-
where and dont really fit in.
But, at our hotel in Alpine, California,
an honest-to-goodness roadie pulled up in
an SUV and started asking me about our
very young bike tour. Ross was in town for
the next days Boulevard Road Race, put on
every year by the University of California,
San Diego Cycling Team. he used roadie
terms that I didnt know the definition of,
such as Cat 3. The next morning at the
continental breakfast, Ross made our day,
telling us we were his inspiration for the
race that day.
Five hours later, Tony and I were soak-
ing wet and tired when we saw the orange
Special Event Ahead sign near the bot-
tom of a hill. Suddenly, a few hundred feet
ahead, a peloton of lycra-clad racers flew in
from a side road. Trucking uphill with my
60-pound trailer, I felt like a John Deere
tractor about to pull onto the Autobahn.
The faster riders jetted past us in silence,
conserving all the oxygen they could inhale
to stay ahead of the pack. Later, guys closer
to the back of the pack cheered us as they
passed and we pulled up the endless hill.
Two weeks later at the Pepper Pot in
hatch, New mexico, a group of seven or
eight cyclists came in just as we were about
to pay our bill. We had 38 miles left to get
to Las Cruces and had spent the last 25
miles battling a crosswind so fierce it had
ripped the flag out of my BOB trailer and
deposited it in a farm field somewhere. We
chatted with one woman in the group who
was outside when we left.
15 or so miles from hatch, my trailer
tire went flat. This necessitated taking the
trailer off the bike and the wheel off the
trailer. I sat down on the shoulder and
applied two patches to two different holes
in the tube, and I was happily interrupted
by repeated offers for help, as the group of
tall man, tall bike. Tony uses his long legs to crank out the miles along the Southern Tier Bicycle Route.
members of the group. For a few minutes, I
rode next to Chris, who was the only man
in the group. Chris said he was Adventure
Cycling Association Life member number
10 and had ridden the TransAmerica Trail
many years ago. We leapfrogged and chat-
ted with the group all the way into Las
Cruces, the end of their 78-mile Saturday
ride. One of the ladies in the group said
she was about to turn 67 and another
group member had recently celebrated her
70th birthday. Now it was out turn to be
inspired.
I dont know what causes a bicycle
chain to split over the course of several
hundred miles. I do know there are bet-
ter places than seven miles outside of
Wiggins, mississippi, to look down and
see half a chain link peeling off as it rolls
over your chainring. We were 140 miles
from the nearest bike shop listed on the
Adventure Cycling map.
When the combined cost of your last
three road bikes is $640, you learn to fix
and replace a few parts. Spokes, cables,
housing, brake calipers, derailleurs all
these components have been replaced on
the kitchen floor of my 450-square-foot
apartment. For our Southern Tier trip, I
had spent an hour on a winter Saturday
with a mechanic at my local bike shop,
strategizing on what tools and spare parts
I would need for the trip. After making a
list, crossing items off, considering weight,
and what was likely to break and leave us
stranded, I ended up with an exhaustive,
but minimal, list: three tubes, tire levers, a
small pump, an extra tire, two emergency
tire boots, 21 tire patches and three tubes
of adhesive, one tube for my BOB trailer, a
Crank Brothers multi-17 tool that included
runs like a deere? Brendans rig may not have been nimble but it chugged steadily along.
a chain breaker and spoke wrenches, a
pedal wrench, a Park Tool 3-Way hex
wrench, a Leatherman kick multi-tool,
two extra brake cables, an extra derailleur
cable, a crescent wrench, freewheel pullers,
two extra drive-side spokes, and two extra
non-drive-side spokes, chain lube, duct
tape, zip ties, and, at the bottom of the stuff
sack that held my tools, a tiny ziploc bag
that held my extra chain links.
Replacing two chain links on the side
of a country road in mississippi using
the chain-breaker on a multi-tool is a bit
of a tense situation. A screwup can mean
a day or two of lost riding and airline
cancellation fees, not to mention 300
round-trip miles of hitchhiking. I felt a
little bit like the action hero everyone
trusts to defuse the bomb with only 60
seconds left until it detonates, trying to
remember: Is it the green or blue wire
Im supposed to cut?
I popped out the busted link and its
neighbor and frantically worked one
pin and two new links into the rest of
the chain. One pin to go, but either my
filthy chain or the tool kept slipping out
of my hands. Tony held my derailleur
in place as I worked, giving the whole
operation a 50-50 chance in my head. I
mashed everything together in the chain
tool, like a five-year-old trying to force
in the wrong piece of a jigsaw puzzle. I
gritted my teeth and spun the multi-tool.
Then, pop! everything came together in
my blackened hands. We high-fived and
were off, racking up 83 more miles for a
total of 105 that day. We then plopped
exhaustedly into a booth at the Waffle
house in Bayou La Batre, Alabama, and
ate our fill.
At A1A Cycle Works in St. Augustine,
Florida, I unclipped my trailer and had
one last look at my bike. It was the last
time Id see it in its touring costume. We
had finished the route, dipping our bikes
in the Atlantic Ocean a few minutes
before. Jeff and Joy at A1A boxed and
shipped my bike to Denver, and the next
time Id ride it, it would be minus fend-
ers, handlebar bag, touring tires, and
three water bottles and cages.
Seven months earlier, I had crashed
my only road bike and buckled the down
tube. I was okay but in desperate need
of a bike, both to ride to work every day
and to ride across America in six months.
After five days of searching Craigslist,
I had found the perfect bike a steel
1985 Raleigh Team USA for $100. It was
indeed a $100 bike when I bought it, and
I stripped everything but the crank and
built it up using parts from other bikes.
Thats what many of us typically do in
central Denver find an old steel frame
and build it up enough to survive the city.
how cool would it be, I asked a couple of
my friends, if I could ride a 25-year-old,
$100 bike across the country?
I told as many people as I could
from California all the way across
Arizona, New mexico, Texas, Louisiana,
mississippi, Alabama, and Florida
about my $100 bike. I didnt expect
anyone to relate to it and I was happy
when people were kind enough to act
as if they were actually listening. I just
wanted people to know they didnt have
to spend thousands of dollars on Lance
Armstrongs bike or be anything like
Lance Armstrong to pedal across
America. hey, you know, Im just a guy
who rides his bike to work, and I can do
it. And you could, too.
Brendan Leonard is a year-round urban cyclist and
writer. He lives in Denver and rides his 1985 Raleigh
Team USA everywhere he goes. More of his writing can
be found at semi-rad.com.
2010: I woke up without an alarm.
The cool air wafting through the tent
smelled of fir and cedar. There wasnt
much movement in Paradise Campground
except for the mckenzie River gurgling
loudly nearby. The sun hadnt risen yet.
And this was paradise a beautiful
August morning in the midst of a bike
trip with friends. I was raring to go. It was
time to climb mckenzie Pass.
What a difference 29 years can make.

1981: On July 6, I woke up in the
very same campground to the sound of a
cold drizzle. Beads of water covered the
inside of our bargain-basement tent. Rain?
Condensation? Probably both our tent
was far from waterproof.
my buddy, Thomas, and I were on day
five of our bicycle trip across America. I
was crawling toward an associates degree at
a community college, whereas Thomas was
pre-med at University of California Davis.
We thought we were prepared. I can
laugh heartily about it now. We wore cot-
ton running shorts and sweat pants while
riding. We also used the cheapest bike
tires money could buy. We did have a
map. We were following Bikecentennials
TransAm Trail, but we couldnt afford the
whole series of maps, so we bought the
first one and figured wed wing it from
there.
We packed no rain gear. It was summer,
we reasoned, so it wasnt going to rain (we
were both raised in California). If it
did rain, we decided, it was going to
be a warm, refreshing, gentle summer
shower.
It was so cold I could see my
breath, and my numb fingers fumbled
to cram the sopping-wet tent into its
stuff sack.
This was crazy! If it was this cold
here, what would it be like on top of
mckenzie Pass?
Before we had finished packing
up, news traveled through the camp-
ground of
just how
cold it was up
there the
pass was closed
due to snow.
Snow?
Its July! I
stammered to
Thomas. how
will we get
over mckenzie
Pass?
2010:
On August 1, Thomas and I pedaled out
of Paradise Campground as the beams of
sunrise filtered through the trees. There
wasnt a cloud in the sky.
Thomas now had more than 27 years as
a high-
school biol-
ogy teacher under
his belt and more than
26 years of marriage to an
amazing woman with whom
he raised three incredible
children. I had done a stint
in professional theater before
the travel bug bit me, found the perfect
traveling and life companion, and man-
aged to avoid having what most people
would call a real job.
When Thomas contacted me about tak-
ing our first bike trip together in 29 years,
the idea of retracing our journey across
Oregon immediately came to mind. But
with so many cycling opportunities, why
repeat? Since
our first
journey was
from west
to east, why
not north
to south?
We agreed
on Portland
to klamath
Falls via
Crater Lake.
Thomas
flew from
Sacramento
to Seattle. We talked our other lifelong
buddy, Randy, into joining us and booked
passage for ourselves and our bikes on the
Amtrak Cascades line to Portland.
McKenzie Pass
Revisited
by Willie Weir
1981:
Thomas and I
were on such a
limited budget we
couldnt afford
train or bus fare.
We heard that
a friends fam-
ily was going on
a camping trip
in Canada. We
hitched a ride in
their motor home.
The TransAm Trail
began at Astoria,
but Seaside was as
far as they would
take us. At least
it was the Pacific
Ocean.
We had to dip our back tires in the
Pacific Ocean everyone told us that
but the tide was out. It was the lowest
tide since humans began measuring
them. We dutifully drug our
bikes through sand and
surf. Everything got wet.

2010: We had
to dip our
plastic forks
into sev-
eral entrees
at Portlands famous food carts every-
one told us that. It didnt matter that we
had pedaled less than a mile from the
train station. Bring on crepes, followed
by two orders of a spicy
Thai dish, and then
noodles. We duti-
fully stopped
at Voodoo
Doughnut
for dessert.
Less than 10
miles later, we
stopped for
root beer floats,
just because
they were there.
We ended
our first day
of pedaling at
a quaint little
campground just
on the edge of
the mount hood
National Forest.
1981: We ended our
first day of our epic journey
sunburned and sore. We
both had forgotten to buy
sunscreen. The campground
where we planned to stay
was full. Every campground
was full. We had made a
tactical error in planning
to camp here the week-
end of July 4. In a panic,
we knocked on a door
and asked the man who
answered if we could pitch
our tent in his yard.
We ended up
sleeping on a
queen-size hide-
a-bed sofa in his
garage.
2010: I love wild camp-
ing. Dispersal camping is what
they call it in national forests.
Bikes have the great advantage of
needing very little room to park.
On our second night, the three
of us found an idyllic site by the
river.
Small camp stores were often
the only shopping available on
this route. Over the years, Ive
learned from my partner, kat, to
make the best of the ingredients
you have. I fired up the camp stove, sau-
ted some garlic and onions in the pot, and
then poured in a large can of chicken noo-
dle soup. Once it came to a boil, I gently
cracked and lowered six eggs
into the pot and let the roll-
ing boil stir them. I topped
it off with red pepper
flakes, and we feasted on
spicy egg-drop chicken-
noodle soup.
We chatted around
the campfire while sip-
ping tea and listened to
the calls of barred owls:
Who cooks for you? Who
cooks for you?
1981: We opened a couple
of cans of soup with a Swiss
Army knife and drank them.
Wed cook another night. We
had managed to score
a free campsite in the
empty gravel lot behind
a church. We were sore and tired. Wed
probably be asleep before dusk.
A car pulled into the lot, followed by
another, and another. Soon there was a
steady stream of trucks and station wagons.
When the dust settled, we were completely
surrounded. Car stereos blared and small
children ran amok.
We had somehow managed to pick the
most popular patch of gravel from which to
watch the countys Fourth of July fireworks
display. The last vehicle pulled away at 1:30
Am with the parting call, Sleep well.
The next day, we stopped for ice cream
sandwiches at every opportunity.
2010: We
stopped for ice
cream sandwiches
at every oppor-
tunity.
1981:
mckenzie Pass
loomed ahead. It
wasnt the highest
pass, or the lon-
gest, but it was the
first. The coun-
try was so big,
and my bike felt
so heavy. many
other people had
successfully made
the trip, but what if I just wasnt made for
this?
The summit was almost 18 miles away.
how steep would it get? Would I have to
walk my bike? And now theres snow. Are
we going to have to wait weeks for it to
clear? I thought I would run out of money
before we even crossed Oregon.
2010: mckenzie Pass greeted us like
an old friend. I knew how steep it would
be not nearly as steep as hundreds of
other mountain passes Id climbed. And I
knew which views were waiting for me,
full of wonderful volcanic bareness and
near and distant mountain peaks.
There would be no stress or wor-
ries, just a quiet scenic highway and two
old friends chatting and laughing, both
wondering why it took so long to travel
together again.
1981: The pass cleared that very day.
After buying rain gear at the general store
nuts & bolts: mckenzie pass
oregon: as a bicycle traveler, you cant
go wrong in oregon. this state boasts
five adventure cycling routes within its
borders.
amtrak: as the airline industry smacks
touring cyclists with higher fees, amtrak
just gets better. this trip was perfect for
the train. we booked tickets ahead of time
on the amtrak cascades from seattle to
portland. the cascade trains all have bike
racks to hang bicycles (six bikes per bag-
gage car at present). you can reserve a
spot for your bike for $5 one way. reserve
early if you are traveling on the weekend as
the bike slots go fast.
the amtrak coast starlight train does
not have bike racks but does offer bike
boxes. loading a bike is $5. the box is
$20. used boxes are free.
crater lake: Many more cyclists are
discovering this gem because crater lake
is on the new adventure cyclings sierra
cascades route. Make sure you take the
time to pedal the road around the rim.
Many will suggest that you ride it clock-
wise. this is information for car and camper
drivers, who have a hard time pulling over
to see the view. if you bicycle counter-
clockwise, youll have less traffic and better
light for photographs.
oakridge: this little town southeast of
eugene sports a world-class english pub
(Brewers union local 180) where you can
dine on fish and chips and enjoy a hand-
pulled english-style ale. the town also
sports a newly opened hostel (oakridgehos
tel.com) that is very bicycle friendly. the cur-
rent rate is $35 and includes breakfast. But
if you bicycle there, the rate is $25.
Klamath Falls
Portland
Adventure Cycling
Bicycle Route
Portland
Eugene Florence
Bend
Sisters
Astoria
Seaside
Mt Hood
11239
McKenzie Pass
5335
Mt Adams
12276
Hood River
CRATER LAKE N. P.
P
A
C
I
F
I
C

O
C
E
A
N
OREGON
WASHINGTON
C
A
S
C
A
D
E

R
A
N
G
E
C
O
S
T
A
L

R
A
N
G
E
S
c
a
s
e
y

g
r
e
e
n
e
Hand-Built in England since 1926
The Pashley Country Clubman
reflects on the era when one bike
would be used for many purposes
- touring, club races and riding to
work in between. With generous
clearances under its centrepull
brakes, this Clubman is equipped
with modern derailleur gears for ease
of use, whilst retaining the classic
direct-acting down tube shifters.
- Lugged and Brazed Construction
- Reynolds 331 Tubing
- Brooks Leather Saddle
- Alloy Components
- Handmade in England
The Clubman Era
has returned
For more information please visit
BritishBicycle.com
in mckenzie Bridge, Thomas and I sum-
mited mckenzie Pass and climbed toward
the lookout tower. Thanks to the earlier
snowstorm, you could see 100 miles in
every direction.
We coasted down into Sisters, Oregon,
where we met a Frenchman named Francois
at the local campground. We traveled togeth-
er for two weeks before our routes divided.
A couple of months later, we dipped our
front tires in the Atlantic Ocean. And like
several thousand others who have crossed the
country with the aid and inspiration of the
Adventure Cycling Association, we would
recall the journey as one of lifes highlights.
2010: We summited late morning to
a hazy view due to a fire near Sisters. We
turned around and for the first time got to
experience the downhill of that stretch of
highway.
Randy waited for us, and we continued
pedaling along the mckenzie River beside
spectacular waterfalls on the Aufderheide
memorial Drive, one of the most beauti-
ful and bike-friendly roads in the state of
Oregon. We enjoyed hand-pulled pints at
a fantastic English-style pub in the little
town of Oakridge, which features a great
hostel, too. It was there that we said good-
bye to Randy, who returned to Seattle from
Eugene via Amtrak.
Thomas and I continued pedaling south.
We climbed over a mountain pass on a gravel
road, and then back on to pavement toward
Crater Lake, where we intersected with the
Pacific Cascades route. Every cyclist we
met was packing Adventure Cycling maps.
We took an entire day to casually ride the
33-mile rim road around Crater Lake.
The campground was full at the national
park and dozens of would-be campers
were turned away. But a group of cyclists
reached out and invited us to share their
group site, complete with food, laughter,
friends, and bicycles.
Two days later, I stood at the train sta-
tion in klamath Falls and hugged my friend
good-bye. his train was headed south, and
mine was going north.
We talked of traveling more often togeth-
er, but one ride is already planned. 29 years
from now, Thomas and I will climb mckenzie
Pass again. Ill be 79. hell be 81.
Well stop for ice cream sandwiches at
every opportunity.
Willie Weir also spins a great yarn live. To find out
where you can catch one of his upcoming shows, visit
willieweir.com.
c
a
s
e
y

g
r
e
e
n
e
BIKE FRIDAY
800-777-0258 // BikeFriday.com
Refecting on 20 years of touring memories
Call or email to get
our latest catalog
SINCE 1992
PROMO CODE: 1854
The real art of the bicycle is for each to have its purpose.
The perfect marriage between humanity and machinery.
www.co-motion.com
American Made. Oregon Made. Handmade.
many people like the idea of traveling
by bicycle but dont how to get started.
While experienced riders know the sim-
plicity of bike travel is one of its great
joys, to a curious newcomer the ques-
tions and choices can be overwhelming.
Below, we answer some of the common
questions that beginning bicycle travelers
often ask, and provide some tips to demys-
tify cycling.
who travels by bike?
Traveling by bike appeals to a broad
spectrum of people and there are many
ways to do it. It can be done individually,
with friends, or with a commercial tour
operator. People of all ages, backgrounds,
and regions of the world choose the bicycle
as their favorite means of travel. Adults in
their seventies and children in their teens
(and younger!) have ridden all the way
across America. Bicycle travel is attractive
for many reasons: its an exciting chal-
lenge that allows us to explore new land-
scapes and cultures, build physical fitness,
and experience the joy of breathing fresh
air and meeting new people every day.
am i in good enough shape?
The good news is that you dont need
to be a super-athlete to enjoy cycling.
however, youll want to spend some time
training on a bike before your trip. The
best thing to do is to be realistic about
what you can do and create achievable
goals. Then, work your strength up to
riding the same daily distances you plan
to cover while carrying the same gear
you plan to travel with. Youre physi-
cally ready if you can do back-to-back
day rides that are as long or longer than
you are planning for your tour, and feel
like you could ride again on the third day.
One of the pleasures of bike travel is that
youll be riding into progressively better
and better shape as you go. For more tips
on physical preparation, see Getting in
Shape for Touring in the online how-To
Department at adventurecycling.org/fea
tures/howto.cfm.
How far can i ride in a day?
This varies depending on your overall
fitness, your personal goals, the style of
touring you choose and the terrain.
here are some tips to plan by. With a bit
of bicycle-specific training, an average
physically fit adult carrying less than 20
pounds of additional gear on their bike
can expect to travel at an average pace
of 65 miles per day on paved roads and
still have time to stop and smell plenty
of roses. With a load of gear totaling 20
to 45 pounds, the average pace to plan
for should be lowered to 55 miles per
day. If the terrain is particularly flat or
mountainous, the average will increase or
decrease accordingly (for mountain-bike
travel, these distances can be cut in half,
or more, depending on the ruggedness of
the terrain).
Experienced bicycle travelers can ride
further, but for most people, planning
to exceed these averages has a tendency
to increase the physical challenge and
decrease the enjoyment. We recommend
that you plan for at least one rest day out
of 10, and carry no more than 45 pounds
of gear and a lot less if you can. Always
plan time in your day, and days off in
your trip, for unexpected challenges and
good opportunities.
what kind of bike should i use?
many types of bicycles can be used
for bike travel. Although some bikes are
specifically designed for touring, most
quality bicycles can be customized for
touring use, with the exception of road
racing bikes, as they emphasize weight
savings and quick handling over dura-
bility and comfort. (Folks do it, but we
dont recommend it for reliability reasons.)
Important characteristics of an appropriate
bike are durability, a comfortable riding
position, and low gears for climbing hills.
The ability to mount racks, fenders, and
wide tires (32 mm or greater) is also a plus.
Experienced bicycle travelers have their
preferences, but there is no single style
of bicycle that is an overwhelming favor-
ite. Ultimately, your choice is based on
personal preference and the type of tour-
ing you want to do (paved roads vs. dirt
roads/trails, amount of gear to carry, etc.).
To read more on how to select a proper
bike for touring, visit adventurecycling.
org/features/buyersguide.cfm.
How do i decide where to ride?
Besides the obvious scenery, his-
tory, and any other personal interests
you have look for low-traffic routes
and/or roads with good shoulders. keep
by the Adventure Cycling Association staff
bike travel 101
W
O
L
F
G
A
N
G

E
H
N
,

C
O
u
R
T
E
S
Y

O
F

O
R
T
L
i
E
b

S
p
O
R
T
A
R
T
i
K
E
L

G
M
b
H
in mind that many of the places youd
like to see by bicycle, such as national
parks, can be choked with traffic and
undesirable for cycling. mountain bikers
usually look for routes with little or no
motorized traffic and as little pavement as
possible. The biggest question they need
to answer is usually: Can all of the route
be ridden with a loaded bike or trailer?
many resources for finding bicycle-spe-
cific routes that emphasize safe roads and
rideable trails can be found in the online
Cyclists Yellow Pages. These include:
The 41,399-mile Adventure Cycling
Route Network and touring maps.
State resources, including tourism
agencies, state bicycle/pedestrian offices,
advocacy groups, and local bike clubs.
Local and regional cycling maps and
guidebooks listed under their respec-
tive states and countries. Visit adventure
cycling.org/cyp.
How do i carry my stuff?
The most common methods of carrying
gear are panniers and trailers. Panniers
are luggage that attach to your bicycle on
racks that sit over or next to the wheels.
Ortlieb and Arkel are two top-quality
brands. Quality racks are available to fit
nearly every bicycle. Trailers come in
many varieties, usually with one or two
wheels. most are easy to attach and fit
on almost any bicycle. The BOB Yak/Ibex
and Burley Nomad are both excellent
choices.
Panniers excel on paved-road riding
and single-wheel trailers are at their best
on rough, unpaved terrain, but both can
work well for nearly all types of tour-
ing. Personal preference is the ultimate
arbiter.

where do i stay at night?
First decide if you want to camp (inex-
pensive, independent, closer to nature)
or stay in hotels (comfortable, less gear
to carry). Tourism agencies, chambers of
commerce, convention and visitors asso-
ciations, and many internet resources list
information about motels, campgrounds,
B&Bs, and other lodging. many maps and
guides, including the Adventure Cycling
Route Network maps, list local options.
is it safe to travel alone?
Yes. Bicycle riders are typically per-
ceived to be very non-threatening and
are often treated warmly by strangers,
especially during emergencies. The
chances of something bad happening to
you during a bicycle tour are likely to be
no different than they are in your every-
day life at home.
How much does bike touring cost?
The cheapest way to go is to camp and
cook your own meals. Assuming you
have all the necessary gear before you
leave, and you are touring in America,
a budget of $35 a day should be enough
to pay for camping fees and groceries
and still stash a bit away for unforeseen
expenses like repairs or gear replacement.
Going commando-style, its possible to
travel on $10 a day or less. For those with
luxury in mind, well, the sky (and your
bank account) is the limit. The beauty of
traveling by bike is that it can be as com-
fortable or as adventurous as you want it
to be.
suggested equipment list
Modify the following list depending on
your personal needs and past experiences.
Keep in mind that you generally wont
need any more gear for a 90-day tour
than for a 7-day tour.
on-the-bike clothing
Cycling helmet
Touring shoes good for walking as
well as riding, i.e. some flex in the sole
Cycling gloves
Cycling shorts
Socks wool or synthetic (1 to 3 pair)
Leg warmers or tights for riding (rain
pants can substitute)
Short-sleeved shirts (1 or 2)
Light, long-sleeved shirt for layering and
sun protection
Rain gear, jacket and pants (or poncho)
off-the-bike clothing
Comfortable shorts
Comfortable pants (zip-off legs or rain
pants could substitute)
Underwear (1 to 2 pair)
Sandals, flip-flops, or lightweight shoes
Wool or fleece hat
Wool or fleece gloves
Lightweight down jacket (or wool/fleece
sweater)
miscellaneous
Toiletries
Pocket knife or Leatherman (pliers and
other tools are handy)
Water carrying bladders or containers
at least 1 U.S. gallon capacity
Basic first-aid kit with emergency num-
bers
Sunglasses
Flashlight/headlamp or candle
Sunblock
tools and spare parts
Tire levers/patch kit
Spare tube (and tire, depending on the
trip)
Mini-pump
Electrical tape
Spoke wrench
Spare spokes sized for your bikes
wheels
Allen wrenches
Screwdriver
Chain tool (or substitute a good multi-
tool for this, allen wrenches, and screw-
drivers)
Extra nuts, bolts, and wire (particularly
for racks)
Assorted zip ties
Small chain lube
Hoseclamp
Spare clipless-pedal-cleat bolts
Duct tape (invaluable you can wrap
some around a trimmed straw to save
weight)
camping
Sleeping bag (down bags are warmer,
weigh less, and pack smaller, but useless
if wet. Synthetic bags are heavier and
bulkier, but less expensive for comparable
warmth and will keep you warm when
wet.)
Sleeping pad (closed-cell foam pads
work well and are light, but self-inflating
pads are more comfortable and packable.)
Tent (lightweight, with rainfly and ves-
tibules.)
Ground cloth (this will extend the life of
your tent)
Personal eating utensils (fork, spoon,
cup, bowl)
Stove (a small backpacking stove with
fuel)
Cooking equipment (small pots and/
or pans backpacking equipment works
best and is lightweight.)
For more information
Visit adventurecycling.org/features/
packing.cfm
modern LED lights have revolutionized bicycle lighting, providing
more light output for less energy. Battery-powered lights are fine
for occasional use and can double as flashlights. For frequent,
longer night-time riding, hub generators offer the best solution. Light beams should
be asymmetric to avoid blinding oncoming traffic and to optimize the light output.
Riding at Night
It can happen to anybody. You
underestimated the time it would
take to cross two mountain passes.
You watch the sun setting behind the
jagged peaks that tower above the
valley. The sky turns bright orange
with shades of purple. As you enjoy
the beautiful spectacle, you suddenly
realize that you still face an hours
ride until you reach your camp-
ground or hotel. Darkness is falling
rapidly. Fortunately, your bike is
equipped with lights so you simply
flip a switch and continue your ride,
now more visible to other traffic than
you were during the day. After the
glare of the sun, riding at night provides
a welcome respite for your eyes. You hear
different sounds as the nocturnal crit-
ters awake, and before you realize it, you
have reached your destination for the
day.
Just as we would not consider buying
a car without lights, even if we intend to
travel mostly during the day, it is useful
to equip our bikes with lights. Even dur-
ing daytime, you may encounter tunnels
or fog that require illumination.
Lighting technology has made huge
progress in recent years to the point
where riding at night has become as
easy and enjoyable as riding in daylight.
Although most of us tour during the day
to enjoy the scenery and to meet people,
an occasional night-time stage can be use-
ful. When faced with crossing a desert
with few services, riding during the cooler
night can stretch the distance you cycle
before needing to replenish your water.
If you face a road that sees a lot of traffic
during the day, riding at night can make
for a more tranquil and safe experience.
Furthermore, riding under the stars or a
full moon is an unforgettable experience.
Batteries or Generator?
Your lighting choices will go a long
way toward making cycling at night safe
and enjoyable. Your most basic choice is
between battery-powered or generator-
powered lights. Basic battery lights are
inexpensive initially, but you will have
to budget for batteries. more expensive
lights often come with rechargeable bat-
teries. The need to hook up to an outlet
can pose a problem if you are camping.
All battery-powered lights have a limited
run time so you need to keep track of
how much charge remains. On the plus
side, small battery-powered lights
can double as flashlights. For occa-
sional night riding, battery-powered
lights are an inexpensive solution.
Generator-powered lights have
the advantage of unlimited run time.
You provide the power not just to
propel the bike but also to illuminate
the road. most modern systems use
generator hubs that have close to zero
resistance when switched off, and
very little resistance when switched
on. modern generator-powered head-
and taillights include standlights (the
light continues to shine for several
minutes after you stop), and greatly
increase safety for urban riding.
The higher initial cost of generator
systems is offset by the fact that you will
never have to buy batteries or replace
your rechargeable ones once they no lon-
ger hold a charge. For extended night-
time riding, I find generator-powered
lights the best option.
Flashing or Steady?
Flashing lights can be useful during
low-light daytime conditions because
they draw attention to the cyclist. At
night, flashing lights tend to blind
oncoming traffic, and they make it hard
for the cyclist to see potholes and other
obstacles in the road. The human eye
adapts to low light conditions by open-
ing the pupil and letting in more light.
This means that flashing lights are per-
ceived as extremely bright and painful.
Furthermore, flashing lights make it dif-
ficult to judge the distance and speed of
see And Be seen
A look at bicycle lighting
by Jan Heine
mechanical Advantage
J
a
n

H
e
i
n
e
J
a
n

H
e
i
n
e
a cyclist. Therefore, at night, your lights
should be set to emit a steady beam. You
want to see and be seen, but you dont
want to blind oncoming traffic.
How Bright?
Almost all modern headlights use
LEDs instead of halogen bulbs. LEDs are
much more efficient so you get a greater
light output. For generator-powered
lights, this means lower resistance and
more light. For battery-powered lights,
you get a longer run time from the same
batteries.
As a result, most modern lights are
bright enough. Generally, you need
brighter lights for urban riding where
light pollution means that your eyes
dont adjust completely to the darkness.
To be seen in the city, you have to com-
pete with many other light sources. Out
in the country, your eyes adjust to the
darkness. An overly bright headlight has
you riding in a cone of light, unable to
see around corners or to notice critters
by the side of the road that may run in
front of your wheels and cause you to
fall. Out in the country, your lights will
be the only light source, so you are very
noticeable to other road users.
Beam Pattern
A headlights output in watts or even
lumens tells you little about how useful
it is for night-time riding. much more
important is the beam pattern. For a
pleasant night-time riding experience,
the headlight beam needs to be wide
enough to illuminate the entire road and
beyond, so you can ride around curves
without riding into the dark. The transi-
tion from light to dark should be gradu-
al. The beam should be long enough to
illuminate high-speed descents at night.
many inexpensive lights have round
reflectors like those of flashlights. This
projects half of your light output above
the horizon into the sky. Not only is this
wasted light, but it can be dangerous
because it blinds and dazzles oncoming
traffic. Imagine a car coming toward you
with its high beams on.
The best lights have asymmetric
reflectors similar to those used in car
headlights. Their beam is cut off at the
top so all the light is going where you
need it: onto the road. most of these
lights come from Germany, because
German traffic laws require a cut-off
beam to prevent blinding oncoming traf-
fic. however, in Germany, it is illegal to
ride a bicycle (except lightweight racers)
without dynamo-powered lights. Until
recently only generator-powered lights
carry the German certification that iden-
tifies the cut-off beam.
Even with beams that are cut off at
the top, the headlight must be oriented
carefully to avoid blinding oncoming
traffic. To check your headlight orienta-
tion, ride your bike on a busy trail at
night. If you can see the faces of oncom-
ing cyclists, your light is oriented too
high.
With the best lights, you can ride at
night as well as during the day. During
our Flche 24-hour ride, we descended
on winding roads at speeds of up to 40
mPh in the middle of a moonless night,
our lights illuminating the road far ahead
with their wide beams.
Taillights
Taillights should be bright and red.
Flashing red taillights have become
accepted in urban environments.
motorists perceive them as indicating
slow-moving cyclist ahead. On open
roads, a steady taillight may be advanta-
geous as it allows approaching traffic
to gauge the speed and distance of the
cyclist. There is some indication that
flashing lights may attract the eyes of
drunk drivers, making them more likely
to hit objects with flashing lights than
those with steady illumination.
Reflective materials
In addition to your lights, it is useful
to add reflective material to your bike
or clothing. Pedal reflectors or reflective
ankle bands are very visible and clearly
indicate to approaching traffic that you
are a cyclist.
With the right lights, cycling at night
can be pleasant and safe. Good lights
allow you to see and be seen by other
traffic.
Jan Heine is editor of Bicycle Quarterly (bikequar
terly.com), a magazine about the culture, technology,
and history of cyclotouring.
i reviewed the expilion 250 in the
april 2011 issue of Adventure
Cyclist and just wanted to add an
update: this version of the
expilion has been upgraded from
250 lumens to 400 but the price
will remain the same: $139 (and
ive seen it as low as $115). the
expilion 400 is very similar to the
250 lumen version but with these
different features: the light pattern
is a bit wider and more inclusive
of surroundings; the light color is
slightly more yellow when com-
pared to the super white light of
the 250; there is one more light
setting, boost, which is the op-
tion that provides the max of 400
lumens; and the run times are now
2/3/6/13.5/24. thats 2 hours on
boost, 3 hours on high, 6 hours on
medium, 13.5 on low, and 24 hours
of fashing.
otherwise, the upgraded ver-
sion is almost identical to the 250.
it can be charged by usb micro via
computer or electrical outlet, can
be mounted on your handlebars,
stem, or helmet (mount included),
and is watertight. it is also slightly
smaller than other bike lights in
its class and is very light at 130
grams. additionally, you can buy
an extra quick-release battery,
keep it charged, and double your
run times.
For more about the cree led
technology used in the expilion,
you can check it out here: cree.
com/products/ledlamps_hb.asp.
also, Jan Heine mentions that
some german lights have asym-
metric refectors because the ger-
man road traffc licensing regu-
lations require a cut-off beam. a
good example of this is the sigma
lightster, which will be reviewed in
more depth in an upcoming issue.
For more about the lightster, see
sigmasport.com/us/produkte/
beleuchtung.
-Mike Deme
product update:
the cygolite
expilion 400
prOtein: pOWer FOr pedAlinG?
Its all the rage in the world of supplements
by Nancy Clark
The Cyclists kitchen
how much protein do I need? When should I eat it? Whats the best
brand of protein shake? how many protein bars are okay to eat in a
day? These are just a few of the questions cyclists ask me about the
role of protein in their sports diet as they chug protein shakes for breakfast,
choose protein bars for mid-morning and late afternoon snacks, and refuel with
protein supplements for recovery. The sports food industry leads us to believe
these commercially prepared, purified,
protein-rich products are indispensable
for superior performance. Not the case;
real food has worked well for years!
While there is a time and place for
protein supplements, many cyclists mis-
use them. For example, I see far too many
cyclists downing post-ride protein shakes
and protein bars when they should be
enjoying carbohydrate-rich fruit smooth-
ies and energy bars. The people who
might benefit from a protein supplement
are vegetarians who eat hit-or-miss meals,
college students who dislike the cafeteria
options, and dieters who try to live on
lettuce leaves. But most hungry cyclists
get plenty of protein through their daily
food intake.
The purpose of this article is to
answer some questions about the role
of protein in your sports diet and leave
you with this message: While adequate
protein is important to build and repair
muscles, protein should take its place
as the accompaniment to carbohydrates
(grains, fruits, and vegetables). Thats
because your muscles need at least four
times more calories from carbohydrates
(for fuel) than they need from protein.
Confused? keep reading!
Q. When Im on daylong rides, I eat a
lot of protein bars. How many protein bars
per day are too many?
A. To start, when you are biking all
day, you need carbohydrate-based gra-
nola bars and energy bars that will fuel
your muscles. Remember, protein can
repair muscles but does not easily fuel
muscles. Carbohydrates fuel muscles.
Next, you need to determine how
much protein your body requires and
then assess how much protein you eat
via your standard food choices. most
cyclists eat more than enough protein
without supplements. To estimate your
daily needs, multiply your weight by 0.5-
0.75 grams protein/pound (1.0-1.5 g/kg).
Example:
If you weigh about 120 pounds, the
suggested intake is approximately 60 to
90 grams of protein per day.
If you weigh about 160 pounds, the
suggested intake is approximately 80 to
120 grams of protein per day.
(Note: If you are restricting calories to
lose weight, you want to target the higher
end of the protein range.)
To track how much protein you eat,
use the information on food labels and/or
analyze your diet at websites such as
fitday.com or sparkpeople.com. heres
how to easily consume 100 grams of pro-
tein:
Pre-ride Breakfast: 2 eggs (12 g),
Greek-style yogurt, 6 ounces (14 g)
AM Snack: Bagel with peanut butter (14 g)
Lunch: Tuna sandwich (30 g)
Afternoon snack: Trail mix (10 g)
Dinner: 6-oz. chicken breast (45 g)
Total: 125 grams protein and this
does not even include the additional
protein from the grains, vegetables, and
fruits that rounded out the days intake.
Once you know how much protein
you consume via standard foods, you can
then determine how many protein bars
you need. (Likely none!) That is, if your
diet offers 125 grams of protein and you
need only 90 grams, theres no need to
buy a protein bar other than for calories
to curb hunger.
Q. Im a vegetarian and try to eat some
plant protein at each meal. I still wonder if
I will be able to get enough protein to sup-
port my TransAmerica bike tour.
A. many vegetarians who think they
eat well are surprised to learn how little
protein plant foods offer. For example, if
you weigh 120 pounds and need at least
60 grams protein per day, you will fall
short on protein if you consume only:
Breakfast: 2 tablespoons of peanut
butter (9 g protein) on a bagel (14 g total)
Lunch: a BOCA burger (13 g)
Dinner: a quarter-cake of tofu (9 g)
That totals only 36 of the recom-
mended 60 grams protein. Yes, you
consume more protein from the
grain foods and veggies that
round out your meals, but
you would be wise to
eat double portions of
protein-rich plant foods.
When cycling long dis-
tances, double portions
can be easy to con-
sume. Adding yogurt
and milk to the diet
can also easily boost protein intake.
Q. Ive been eating egg whites for break-
fast. Ive heard they are an excellent source
of high-quality protein. Is this correct?
A. Yes, egg whites offer high-quality,
muscle-building protein, but take note:
egg whites are mostly water, and are not
packed with protein. An omelet made
with three egg whites has only about 10
grams of protein. You could more easily
swig 10 ounces skim milk and skip the
cooking and dishwashing.
A whole egg has about 6 grams pro-
tein, and the yolk is rich in important
vitamins and minerals. Yes, the yolk is
also rich in cholesterol, but the debate
continues whether or not the cholesterol
you eat affects your blood cholesterol and
heart-health.
In addition to (or instead of) egg
whites for breakfast, plan to fuel your
muscles with carbohydrate-rich oatmeal
for breakfast. Either eat the oats raw
(with milk, as you would eat a dry cereal)
or cook them with skim milk (instead
of water) to get a good ratio of carbo-
hydrates to protein. Add raisins, honey,
almonds, walnuts and even powdered
milk if you think your diet needs a pro-
tein boost and youve got the makings
for a super sports breakfast either at a
campsite or at home.
Q. Should I use
a sports drink with
protein during long
rides that last
longer than two
hours?
A. If your
goal is to
enhance your
performance
by drinking a
sports drink with protein (such as
Accelerade or Amino Vital) during a long
ride, dont bother. Endurance is largely
affected by how many total calories you
consume while you exercise (not the
amount of protein). Snack regularly on
granola bars, dried fruit, fig bars, trail
mix, gels, or gummy candy and drink
plenty of water. Or, choose the sports
beverage that tastes best to you. Good
tasting fluids are important, because you
will drink more of something you like.
many cyclists do not like the aftertaste
associated with a protein-containing
sports drink.
Soon after youve finished riding,
enjoy a wholesome carbohydrate-plus-
protein snack or meal (such as yogurt
and a banana, chocolate milk, or a pea-
nut butter and jelly sandwich). This will
provide your muscles with the tools they
need to recover optimally.
Q. Ive heard I should eat a three (or
four) to one ratio of carbohydrates to pro-
tein right after I exercise, but I dont know
what that looks like in terms of food. So I
buy commercial recovery foods and drinks
to be sure I get the right ratio. Are there
other options?
A. Commercial recovery drinks are
more about convenience than necessity.
You can enjoyably refuel with chocolate
milk, yogurt, a sandwich, or pasta with
meat sauce. The ratio need not be exact
you just dont want to consume a
heavy amount of protein that displaces
carbohydrates and also sits in the stom-
ach and slows digestion.
Whether or not a protein-carbohy-
drate recovery beverage is superior to
a carbohydrate-only beverage remains
questionable. In a recent study (Green,
2008) in which athletes drank either a
carbohydrate or a carbohydrate-protein
recovery drink immediately after mus-
cle-damaging downhill running, both
beverages offered a similar recovery pro-
cess over the course of three days. The
authors concluded the meals that they
ate (in addition to the recovery drink) in
those post-exercise days supplied the
protein and carbohydrates needed to
recover.
Yet, you wont go wrong by
refueling soon after exercise with a
carbohydrate-protein combination.
If engineered foods are preferable
because they are convenient, buy them.
But if you prefer the wholesome good-
ness of chocolate milk and other natural
protein-carbohydrate combinations, save
your money and enjoy real food instead.
Real foods tend to be tastier, too!
Q. In addition to cycling, I lift weights
twice a week. Ive done this for several
years. Do I have higher protein needs than
the person who does not lift weights?
A. In the early stages of training, your
protein needs are slightly higher because
you are building muscle mass. Once you
have built muscle, your protein needs
should return to the standard require-
ments. Believe it or not, research suggests
weight lifting enhances the way your
body uses the protein you eat. This actu-
ally results in greater efficiency and a
reduced protein requirement. (Campbell,
2007)
If youre like most hungry athletes
who lift weights, you habitually consume
more than enough protein on a daily
basis. hence, whether or not your body
requires extra protein becomes a moot
point because you are likely already eat-
ing extra.
The bottom line
To repeat what I wrote in the begin-
ning: While adequate protein is impor-
tant in your sports diet to build and
repair muscles, protein should take its
place as the accompaniment to carbo-
hydrates. Enjoy meals and snacks that
include a foundation of grains, fruits and
vegetables, with a side of protein-rich
dairy, meats, fish, eggs, beans, and nuts.
Youll enjoy the benefits of high energy,
strong muscles, and good health. Eat well,
ride well!
Nancy Clark, MS, RD, CSSD (Board Certified Specialist
in Sports Dietetics) is a former TransAmerica tour lead-
er. She offers private consultations to casual and com-
petitive athletes in her practice at Healthworks, the
premier fitness center in Chestnut Hill, Massachusetts
(617-383-6100). Her Sports Nutrition Guidebook
and Cyclists Food Guide are available via nancy
clarkrd.com.
References
Campbell W, Leidy h (2007). Dietary protein
and resistance training effects on muscle and body
composition in older persons. J Am Coll Nutr 26,
696S-703S.
Green mS, Corona BT, Doyle JA, Ingalls CP.
Carbohydrate-protein drinks do not enhance
recovery from exercise-induced muscle injury. Int J
Sport Nutr Exerc metab. 2008;18(1):1-18.
geared up
Geared Up
stone cold outdoor bicycle cooler
bag ($29.95, stonecoldoutdoor.com,
913-236-0449)
Going out for a pleasant summer
ride to your favorite picnic spot and
you want to make sure your beverage
of choice is nice and frosty when you
get there? Or maybe you want to pack
a lunch and ride to work? For whatever
reason you might need to carry a cooler
on your bike, the Stone Cold Bicycle
Cooler Bag may be for you.
Basically, its a nylon cooler/pan-
nier lined with 10mm-thick insulating
foam that keeps drinks cold for hours,
and you can add two square cooler bag
bottles ($9.99 each) that fit perfectly into
the bag.
It attaches to your rack with two
frame hooks and can be secured to the
bottom of the rack using the supplied
velcro strap and D-rings located at the
bottom of the bag. While this solution
works well on mildly rough surfaces,
the Stone Cold Cooler is not designed to
withstand the rigors
of a severely bumpy
mountain-bike ride but
you may find it useful for
less strenuous outings.
planet bike grasshopper
bamboo Fenders ($135,
planetbike.com, 866-256-8510)
Bamboo has become a favorite
material for the environmentally
conscious its renewable, it
grows like weeds, its strong,
and its pretty cool looking.
Bamboo bikes have been
around for a while and,
lately, Ive seen bamboo
bike trailers, handle-
bar grips, and sad-
dles. Planet Bike
decided to take it
a step further
and create the
Grasshopper
fenders. made
from moso bam-
boo and treated with
a marine-grade finish,
the 3-ply fenders repel the
water, mud, and assorted road
grime.
Installing the Grasshoppers is a
snap. The stainless-steel V-stays are pre-
installed and the only issue you need
to face is whether or not your bike has
clearance for them. According to Planet
Bike, the Grasshoppers are designed to
fit over tires of 27 x 1 1/4 or 700C x
35mm, however, your frame, fork, and
brake configuration may also need to be
taken into consideration. If youre think-
ing about buying a set of Grasshoppers
but have questions about whether theyll
fit your bike, drop by your local bike
shop and see what the pros think.
arkel
overdesigns
randonneur rack ($89.95, arkel-od.
com, 888-592-7535)
If youre looking for a versatile rear
rack for a trunk bag, look no further
than the Randonneur from Arkel. Unlike
other racks that attach to your seatpost,
the Randonneur employs a three-point
BiKe stuFF yOu CAn use
by Mike Deme
attachment
system.
A quick-
release
bracket slips
through your saddle
rails and is secured to them creat-
ing the first two points of attachment.
The third point is your seatpost, to
which a rubberized clamp attaches and
is secured with a velcro strap. Once
the rack is in place and all necessary
4-millimeter hex nuts are tightened,
the Randonneur is solidly attached
and ready to carry your load (Arkels
Tailrider makes the perfect companion).
Additionally, it can be removed and reat-
tached very quickly so you can switch it
between or among your different bikes.
The Randonneur is designed to fit
bikes with both short and long seaposts.
It is initially configured for the long
seatpost set up but with a few adjust-
ments, mainly the removal of the exten-
sion brackets and repositioning of the
quick-release mechanism, you can arrive
at the short seatpost set up in no time.
Whether in the long or short set up,
youll need 4 inches from the saddle
rails to your seatpost clamp.
There is one catch, however. Since
the saddle rails are used as attachment
points, the quick-release mechanism
will only securely attach to rails that
are 2.5 cm apart. Because there are so
many saddles with different rail con-
figurations, the Randonneur may not
fit them all. Arkel is aware of this and
is working on adapters that will help
alleviate this issue.
simple pleasures Quick-true
tool ($41.95, spbicycles.com, 541-
408-2960)
There are a lot of mechanical issues
that crop up on a bike ride or tour
that can be repaired onsite, but one
that often causes the need for a lift
to the bike shop is a warped rim.
Well, if you dont mind carrying
eight ounces in your pack, you can
now handle that repair as well thanks
to the Quick-True Tool from Simple
Pleasures.
Consisting of the tool base, slider
rod, adjuster head, and indicator
screw, the Quick-True can attach to
your chainstay, seat stay, or fork via
rubber mounting straps. Once its been
secured, you use the adjuster head and
indicator screw to find the section of
your wheel that
is out of true.
When youve
found it, you
can use the
included spoke
wrench to begin
the process of
straightening
your rim using
basic wheel-tru-
ing techniques.
Pretty nifty.
Simple Pleasures states that there are
limitations to what the Quick-True can
handle so if you completely taco your
wheel youre probably still
going to need that lift
to the shop, but
within 5 to 6 mil-
limeters of warp-
ing, it should do the
trick.
geared up
p
H
o
t
o
s

B
y

J
o
H
n

s
c
H
u
B
e
r
t
tHe 10-speeds On West street
It was 1965, the year of Martin Luther Kings Montgomery march, Bob Dylan going electric at Newport,
the New York Worlds Fair and my first touring bike. Heres what it was like.
by John Schubert
In the summer of 1965, a funny thing happened on a short stretch
of West Street. Five kids abruptly acquired 10-speed bikes. All
five were boys. All five were either 13 or 14 years old. Four got
a French brand, Astra. One got a Schwinn Varsity. And at least three of the five
I was one of them dreamed of riding the 150 miles from our town of Pittsfield,
massachusetts, to Boston. None of us knew if people did that sort of thing, but we
Cyclesense
couldnt see why not.
Sophisticated bicycles were
few and far between in the
U.S. then even though the
state of the art was reasonably
good. (If you knew how, you
could order a superb triple-
chainwheel touring bike from
a European builder. It would
have only five cogs in back,
but it could climb any moun-
tain, carry your gear in water-
proof waxed-cotton panniers,
and treat you to the delightful
handling qualities of Reynolds
531 double-butted steel tub-
ing.) my best guess is that a
few dozen bike shops nation-
wide sold high-quality bikes
and supported the clubs and teams that
kept the knowledge alive.
But on West Street, we didnt get state
of the art. We got entry-level French
10-speeds in your choice of trim levels
$65, $75 or $85 or the $66.95 Schwinn
Varsity. These bikes were insufferably
crude by todays standards, and that $65
equates to $439 in todays dollars.
The French bikes were light weight,
compared to what we were used to, but
their drivetrains stunk. The Schwinn
was heavier, but its drivetrain worked
better.
I got a French bike, and it was a bit of
culture shock in our house. For starters,
the French bikes came in different frame
sizes. This is still news to many custom-
ers today; so you can imagine how novel
the concept was in the year that The
Sound of Music debuted on Broadway.
We discovered frame-size differences
when we lined up my bike next to the
bike belonging to my neighbor Douglas.
my bike had a 54-centimeter frame
and Dougs had a 58-centimeter frame.
So the head tubes on the two bikes were
four centimeters different in length.
(Doug was taller than I, and I suppose
the bike-shop owner eyeballed us and
gave us each the correct size. But he
never explained frame sizing to us.)
my dad, the ever-observant engineer,
looked at the difference in head tube
lengths and rolled his eyes at what he
figured were the worlds most
casual manufacturing toler-
ances. he then noted that we
had paid extra to not get a
kickstand.
At that point, dad lost all
interest in 10-speed bikes. I
was on my own to figure the
thing out.
Back then, how would
a kid in a small town learn
what frame sizes were or
anything else about the craft
of riding well? Id already
exhausted the pathetic bicy-
cling books in the public
library. If you could find
American Cycling magazine,
it might tell you but it
only sold a few thousand copies nation-
wide. The then-tiny League of American
Wheelmen was just getting reorganized
after two decades of dormancy.
All we had were the bikes and the
thrill of self-discovery.
No, the French bikes didnt come
with owners manuals. The only written
instruction with the bikes said that the
cables never needed greasing because
they were factory lubed with bisulfide
or molybdenum.
Old dudes remember the huret Allvit
rear derailleur. It barely worked. The
huret front derailleur on the French
bikes, however, didnt work at all, and
spilled the chain with almost every
Johns Astra is long gone, but he rescued a similar frame from the
trash heap at a bicycle flea market a few years back. The frame in
the pictures suffered damage from a front-end collision.
p
H
o
t
o
s

B
y

J
o
H
n

s
c
H
u
B
e
r
t
attempted shift. It was a design that
Schwinn had rejected (and gotten huret
to make a different, far better, design).
On the Astras, the chain cage was
attached to the parallelogram mecha-
nism by a joint that allowed freedom in
all directions, and the chain cage could
wander in any direction unless it was
very securely tightened down. The rel-
evant nut could only be reached by a
nine-milimeter socket wrench. I knew of
no metric wrenches or even any socket
wrenches anywhere on West Street.
So I accepted the fact that I would
usually spill the chain when I attempted
to make a front shift.
It didnt matter much, because I spent
most of my time being a he-man in the
highest gear. Wasnt that how you got
stronger and rode faster?
The first time I rode a borrowed
Schwinn Varsity, I turned my nose up
at its heavier weight, but cringed with
jealousy at its better-performing front
derailleur.
The one-piece Ashtabula-style crank-
sets of the Schwinns were another annoy-
ing superiority. They looked less elegant
than the three-piece cottered cranks on
the Astras, but crank cotters nearly always
failed. If you owned such a bike, you
probably remember the cranks getting
loose on the spindle, and crude big-ham-
mer home repairs to install new cotters.
On the plus side, the Astras of 1965 had
genuine leather saddles. The seat post was
freakishly short (Ill guess about 12 centi-
meters, compared with the 18 centimeters
that was standard on better bikes back
then, or the 25 or 30 centimeters you see
as standard today). So after a year or two, I
grew and the bike didnt fit.
The $65 bike had steel rims, CLB side-
pull brakes, and axle nuts front and rear.
The $75 bike added centerpull brakes and
large-flange hubs. The $85 bike added
quick-release wheels. The 10 gears ranged
from 39 inches to 108 inches.
As was universal among European
bikes at that time, the frames were
lugged and brazed from standard-diam-
eter steel tubing. It was undoubtedly an
inexpensive carbon-steel alloy with a
huge wall thickness. An Astra frame that
I acquired years later weighs a hefty 5.84
pounds, about 1 1/2 pounds heavier than
most of the touring bikes you would buy
today.
my frame had a brazed-on boss for
one derailleur. The huret clamp that
wrapped around that boss had a second
boss for the front derailleur. I believe
they designed the frames that way so
they could build them up with either
five or 10 speeds.
The French bikes were branded Astra,
but made by motobecane. At the same
time, motobecane also sold bikes in the
U.S. under the Orly brand name.
Why the change in brand names? In
1985, a motobecane executive explained:
A young man riding one of our bikes
at night without lights was struck by
a lorry. he sued us. We decided not to
respond to the lawsuit. But we wanted to
sell bikes in the U.S.
my Astra led a hard life. I rode it
with teenage enthusiasm and machismo,
maintained it enthusiastically but clue-
lessly, banged up the wheels, bent the
steerer tube, and strapped on all sorts of
ill-fitting accessories. Either it had a very
low bottom bracket or I was clueless
about pedaling around sharp corners,
because I would routinely wreck pedals
by scraping them on the pavement. From
those first five-mile around-town rides, it
grew to a series of 50-mile day rides and,
in 1971 a three-day tour of the California
coast.
my Astra is long gone. One day in
1973, I walked to where I had locked it
on campus, intending to ride it to my
dorm. All that was left was a piece of my
chain.
Damn, I still miss it.
John Schubert invites you to his website at limeport.
org. Contact him at schubley@aol.com.
In 1965, very few frames had derailleur
hangers on the rear dropouts. The derail-
leur had its own clamp.
Companions Wanted
Providing partners for tours, domsestic and abroad, since 1978
oxford to kenya 23-year-old guy looking for
some good company for an ambitious tour
in late 2012. Ive split the tour into three
legs, and plan on spending approximately
three months on each leg: First leg: Oxford
to Albania (France, Italy, Greece, Albania -
Dalmatian Coast); second leg: Turkey to Egypt
(Turkey, Syria, Jordan, Israel; third leg: Egypt
to kenya (Egypt, Ethiopia, kenya). I have
kenyan contacts that run a small school in
Jimba Gede that I hope to reach. If interested
email jackbdm@gmail.com.
delivering smiles Im a cancer survivor and
Im preparing to take a trip around the world
by bike, starting here in the U.S., represent-
ing the 28 million people currently living
with cancer. I will be visiting cancer centers
around the world, delivering smiles and inspi-
ration to survivors everywhere. Im doing this
on a shoestring budget this October. If you
are interested in joining me for all or part of
this adventure, please email me and I can give
you details. If interested email zenmaster57@
yahoo.com.
seeking a sag driver(s) for my dog spring
2012 Im a 51-year-old female open to cycling
almost anywhere in the U.S., Europe, or the
middle East in summer 2012. I have a dog
with which I travel. Im not yet strong enough
to tow her, thus, until I am able to tow her
and my gear, it would be great to have assis-
tance. If you are traveling for three to six
weeks in any of these locations and would like
to offer support (either sag or towing her with
your bike); I can offer money or barter my
skills. I rode across the U.S. 14 years ago and
ready to ride again. If interested email idesign
love@me.com.
southern tier West to east in September
2012. male (age 64) looking for fun com-
panions on a southern route across the U.S.
mostly hotels/hostels and some camping, but
Im flexible. Looking to ride 60 to 70 miles a
day with rest days at intervals we agree on.
Come ride across a beautiful country with me.
This will not be a race but a tour. If interested
email roger29@optonline.net.
cross country along the northern u.s.
hello fellow cyclists! Im thinking east-
bound from Washington to maine along the
Adventure Cycling Northern Tier and North
Lakes routes in June 2012. Im all about the
journey, less about the destination, and the
pure enjoyment of cycling, and plan on hav-
ing at least one or two off-days a week to
explore small towns along the way. 50 miles
a day sounds good. I also like stopping to
take naps in wide-open plains. Camping and
warmshowers.org are my shelter plans. Im
27 and my name is zoe. If interested email
zbkoehler@gmail.com.
midwest to southwest spring/summer
2012 Im looking for some friends to join me
on a trip from central Wisconsin to Silver
City, New mexico. Flexible schedule and very
flexible route (Northern Tier, Sierra Cascades/
Pacific Coast?) Planning to leave may/June
2012. Semi-experienced, hoping for stress-free
50 to 70 miles per day. Self-supported and
super low budget equals camping, warmshow-
ers, eating cheap (but healthy!), and being
flexible. 26-year-old woman. Riding for fun,
adventure, and being alive. If interested email
dana.karls@gmail.com.
modified lewis & clark/northern tier/north
lakes Were a group of three (two male, one
female ages 61, 45, 22 respectively) cycling
west to east Portland to Portland (Oregon to
maine) beginning early June 2012. To include
Glacier National Park, Yellowstone, Bighorns,
Black hills, North Lakes. Self-contained,
mostly camping with some motels and hosts.
Some camp food, some restaurants. 50 to 75
miles per day with time for hiking, site see-
ing, historic sites, quaint towns, pie, etc. Its
all about the journey! No bosses, no drama,
no judgment. Fair skies, tailwinds, and a
great time by all. Looking for one more like-
minded gal or young rider to balance out our
group. If interested email tphelps@bikewith
amission.org.
northern tier (bike for bread) In June 2012,
Im planning to ride west to East to raise
money for a local soup kitchen. I would like
to ride the Northern Tier Route but would be
willing to start as far south as San Francisco.
Im looking for someone to join me for the
whole trip and planning to average 65 to 80
miles a day unsupported. I anticipate stopping
at national parks and enjoying nature. Im 21
and completed a cross-country trip in 2007.
I look forward to repeating the same great
experience this summer. If interested email
cdunn@ksc.mailcruiser.com.
dont talk about it, be about it!
I live at the gateway to the most epic coastal
riding in North America, Big Sur. Looking to
find like-minded people to share this amaz-
ing merger of land and sea in late 2012. Im a
35-year-old guy whose jonesing to get out and
ride with the wind. Solo is fun and has its ups
and downs but I prefer to enjoy the enthusi-
asm of others I am with and contribute to the
enjoyment of touring. If youre just passing
through or live here too, lets plan a tour. Any
time. Any year. Starting today! No 100-mile
days here. If interested email sboshco@gmail.
com.
Adventure Cycling Association assumes, but can-
not verify, that the persons above are truthfully
representing themselves. Ads are free to Adventure
Cycling members. You can see more ads and post
new ones at www.adventurecycling.org/mag/comp
anions.cfm or send your ad to Adventure Cyclist,
P.O. Box 8308, Missoula, MT 59807.
Adventure Cycling Guided Tours
adventurecycling.org/toursinfo
Open Road Gallery
Erika Jeffs and Jordan Townsend planned a ride from Cody, Wyoming, to Seattle, Washington, in
celebration of graduating from college at the University of Wyoming (with degrees in math and engi-
neering, respectively). Being quite fed up with homework, deadlines, exams, and the general rigors of
academia, we decided to plan our trip with the greatest amount of freedom builit into it, said Jordan.
They purchased a tent, hammocks, and sleeping bags so they could bed down wherever it struck their
fancy. They had no plans for daily mileage, indeed, no concrete route plans at all they left without a
single map. Luckily, one of the first folks they met on the road was a gentleman headed in the opposite
direction who gave them his Adventure Cycling map for the next part of their trip.
You may notice a slight height differential between the two. Jordan is 66 and Erika is 52 so
when they secured a bulk discount on a set of matching Surly Long haul Truckers, he had to get
the largest frame in production, and she, the smallest. The one-month trip was the couples first, and
once theyd dialed in their oddly matching bikes, the adventure began to unfold. They camped out
every night, spent lots of time at hot springs, and relished their time in Idaho (so little traffic!). The
first glimpse of the Oregon Coast was especially poignant for two cyclists from landlocked Wyoming.
Jordan and Erika now live in Washington, DC. They took the train from Seattle, where the
cost to check the bikes was five dollars, and the bike boxes where free. They used their panniers to
carry their luggage, so that when they arrived at Union Station, they were able to straighten their
handlebars, attach their pedals, and ride to their new apartment with belongings in tow. Jordan
now commutes to the city for his internship every day on his Long haul Trucker. They would like
to someday tour in Europe.
From Adventure Cyclings National Bicycle Touring Portrait Collection. 2011 Adventure Cycling Association.
tHe tAll And sHOrt OF it
by Sarah Raz Photograph by Greg Siple
Open Road Gallery
9 yearly issues of Adventure Cyclist magazine, including
the Cyclists Travel Guide: bikes, Resources, & How-to.
Access to over 45 members-only group tours and
training classes.
Become an Adventure Cycling Member and you will receive:
Join online at: adventurecycling.org/membership
You can also call us at 800-755-2453, or mail in the form below.
Discounts on our 40,000 miles of bicycle route maps.
Z __ __ __ __ __ __ ______ ___ __ __ __ __ ___ ____ ___ ___ ___
For office use EXp TYp YRS SRC SL DON CR M SH
Adventure Cycling Membership Form
Membership Category 1 year 2 year
individual $40 $75
Family $50 $95
Senior* or Student $33 $61
patron $60 $115
benefactor $150 $280
Life $1000
Credit Card #
Exp. Date Daytime phone
Check Visa Mastercard Amex Discover
Name
Address
City, State, Zip
Email
* (60 years or older)
Adventure Cycling is a 501 (c)3 non-proft, member-supported organization.
The tax deductible portion of your membership is any amount over $14 per year.
New Member Renewing Member
c
H
u
c
k

H
a
n
e
y

AC Sample Issue

Uploaded by

Document Information

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

AC Sample Issue

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

adventure cycling association special issue www.adventurecycling.org $4.

You might also like