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Field Studies: Central America

Guatemala

Anthony DelRosario Field Studies: Central America Professors Gene Cizek and Mark Thomas Master in Preservation Studies Tulane School of Architecture

PRST 6420 Field Studies: Central America Gene Cizek and Mark Thomas March 2009

During spring break of the Spring 2009 semester, members of the Tulane MPS program traveled to Guatemala for a week long field studies trip. The small group of seven included Professors Gene Cizek and Mark Thomas, assistant Casey Stuart, three students (myself, Jana Masset from M. Arch./MPS, and Michael Collins from Anthropology), and Robyn Halvorsen, friend of Gene, Mark, and Casey. We were able see a wide range of exquisite places and buildings and culture from Pre-Columbian ruins of Tikal and Iximche to contemporary Mayan village of San Juan la Laguna to Spanish Colonial city of Quetzaltenango to the seismic affected city of Antigua to indigenous town of Chichicastenango to the capital Guatemala City. Day 1, March 21: The first day of the trip was a travel day from New Orleans to Guatemala via Houston. After arriving in Guatemala City, we immediately flew to Flores in Petn where we stayed on Lake Petn Itza (Figure 1). Day 2, March 22: The second day featured a trip to Tikal, a UNESCO World Heritage Site from the Maya Classic Period. Getting to see one of the pre-Columbian sites that we studied in History of the Americas I with Professor Ann Masson was a wonderful experience. Highlights of Tikal were seeing the Great Plaza (Figure 2) where I climbed Temple II and climbing Temple IV for an incredible view over the jungle canopy (Figure 3). We also saw signs of preservation work such as a pit where quick lime was being prepared (Figure 4). Day 3, March 23: The third day began very early with a return flight to Guatemala City where we spent the day seeing sights around the capital including Parque Central (the main plaza), Palacio Nacional de la Cultura (former presidential palace built in early

Anthony DelRosario Master in Preservation Studies - Tulane School of Architecture

PRST 6420 Field Studies: Central America Gene Cizek and Mark Thomas March 2009

20th century) (Figure 5), Catedral Metropolitana (18th century Neoclassical) (Figure 6), Portal del Comercio (a commercial arcade) (Figure 7) and Museo Ixchel (a textile museum) (Figure 8). As the sunset, we traveled to Panajachel on the north shore of Lake Atitlan (Figure 9). Day 4, March 24: The fourth day was spent by Lake Atitlan, the deepest lake in Central America and surrounded by three volcanoes. We went to the main tourist town on the lake, Panajachel (Figure 10), to catch a boat (Figure 11) across the lake to go to San Juan la Laguna, a Mayan village largely untouched by international tourism. There we visited several cooperativas run by women two textile cooperativas (Figures 1214) and one herbal cooperativa. This village was our first full experience and interaction with contemporary Mayan culture. Day 5, March 25: The fifth day included several stops in small villages and towns. We first passed through Solola then made a stop in San Andrs Xecul where we saw a beautiful brightly colored church (1900?) (Figure 15). The next stop was in Salcaj where we saw the Chapel of San Jacinto (1524) (Figure 16), one of the oldest churches in Central America and a fine example of Spanish Colonial architecture. In Cantel we stopped at COPAVIC, a recycled glass cooperative, to watch artisan create glassworks (Figure 17). Next we stopped in Zunil where we saw a very colorful cemetery (Figure 18), a textile store, and a church under renovations (Figure 19). Quetzaltenango was our final stop of the day. There we did a walking tour of the city center where we saw Teatro Municipal (1895 Neoclassical) (Figure 20), Parque Central, the Cathedral (with two exterior designs - Spanish Colonial from 1535 and Neoclassical from 1899) (Figure 21), and the Municipalidad or town hall (1902 Neoclassical) (Figure 22).
Anthony DelRosario Master in Preservation Studies - Tulane School of Architecture

PRST 6420 Field Studies: Central America Gene Cizek and Mark Thomas March 2009

Day 6, March 26: Day six started by travelling to Chichicastenango. There we saw Iglesia de Santo Toms (Figure 23), a 460 year old church that was built atop a pre-Columbian temple platform. We observed a ceremony inside the church and also saw the outside stairs of the church that are still used for Mayan rituals (Figure 24). We also saw a courtyard of the church where work was being done (Figure 25). During our fee time I walked around the city and explored the outdoor market (Figure 26), the indoor produce market (Figure 27), and the cemetery (Figure 28). After leaving Chichi, we ventured to Iximche, a late 15th century pre-Columbian Mayan site (Figure 29). There we were treated to a personal Mayan ritual performed by a shaman (Figure 30). We travelled to Antigua where we would be staying for the next three nights. On the way into the city we stopped at a church in Jocotenango (Figure 31). Day 7, March 27: Antigua, a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site, was founded in 1543 as the third capital of Guatemala and was later abandoned as the capital after the devastating 1773 earthquake. The principal monuments of the city are still preserved as ruins. Our first stop of the day was the ruins of Iglesia de la Compania de Jess (1626) (Figure 32) which was being used as a training center for Cooperacin Espaola where students were learning conservation techniques (Figure 33). We took a ride out of town to have lunch at a coffee plantation (Figure 34). That evening I had dinner with some of the others at La Fonda de la Calle Real where we saw a marimba and dance show (Figure 35). Day 8, March 28: The final full day was a free day. I explored the city with Jana and Michael. We saw many Spanish Colonial buildings and ruins including: San Jos Cathedral (1680) (Figure 36), San Francisco el Grande Church (~1700) (Figure 37),
Anthony DelRosario Master in Preservation Studies - Tulane School of Architecture

PRST 6420 Field Studies: Central America Gene Cizek and Mark Thomas March 2009

Iglesia del Hospital de San Pedro (Figure 38), Nuestra Seora de la Merced Church (1767) (Figure 39), El Carmen Church (1728) (Figure 40), Convento de las Capuchinas (1736) (Figure 41), Arch of Santa Catalina (1697) (Figure 42). We also stopped at Casa del Jade museum, factory and store (Figure 43). That evening the group had a farewell dinner in Santiago Zamora where we entertained and fed at a womens textile cooperative. Members of our group performed in a simulated wedding ceremony and helped with preparing some of the food (Figures 44-48). Day 9, March 29: We returned to Guatemala City early in the morning to fly back to New Orleans via Houston.

Anthony DelRosario Master in Preservation Studies - Tulane School of Architecture

PRST 6420 Field Studies: Central America Gene Cizek and Mark Thomas March 2009

Map

Lonely Planet. <http://www.lonelyplanet.com/maps/central-america/guatemala/>

Anthony DelRosario Master in Preservation Studies - Tulane School of Architecture

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PRST 6420 Field Studies: Central America Gene Cizek and Mark Thomas March 2009

Images

Figure 1: Lake Petn Itza

Figure 2: Great Plaza at Tikal

Figure 3: View from Temple IV at Tikal

Figure 4: Quick lime pit at Tikal

Figure 5: Palacio Nacional de la Cultura in G.C.

Figure 6: Catedral Metropolitana in Guatemala City

Anthony DelRosario Master in Preservation Studies - Tulane School of Architecture

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PRST 6420 Field Studies: Central America Gene Cizek and Mark Thomas March 2009

Figure 7: Portal del Comercio in Guatemala City

Figure 8: Museo Ixchel in Guatemala City

Figure 9: Hotel Atitlan in Panajachel

Figure 10: Panajachel

Figure 11: Boats in Panajachel

Figure 12: Cooperativa in San Juan la Laguna

Anthony DelRosario Master in Preservation Studies - Tulane School of Architecture

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PRST 6420 Field Studies: Central America Gene Cizek and Mark Thomas March 2009

Figure 13: Cooperativa in San Juan la Laguna

Figure 14: Cooperativa in San Juan la Laguna

Figure 15: Church of San Andrs Xecul

Figure 16: Chapel of San Jacinto in Salcaj

Figure 17: Glass cooperative in Cantel

Figure 18: Cemetery in Zunil

Anthony DelRosario Master in Preservation Studies - Tulane School of Architecture

PRST 6420 Field Studies: Central America Gene Cizek and Mark Thomas March 2009

Figure 19: Church in Zunil

Figure 20: Teatro Municipal in Quetzaltenango

Figure 21: Cathedral in Quetzaltenango

Figure 22: Municipalidad in Quetzaltenango

Figure 23: Iglesia de Santo Toms in Chichi

Figure 24: Stairs of Iglesia de Santo Toms

Anthony DelRosario Master in Preservation Studies - Tulane School of Architecture

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PRST 6420 Field Studies: Central America Gene Cizek and Mark Thomas March 2009

Figure 25: Work at Iglesia de Santo Toms

Figure 26: Chichicastenango outdoor market

Figure 27: Chichicastenango indoor produce market Figure 28: Chichicastenango cemetery

Figure 29: Iximche

Figure 30: Shaman ritual at Iximche

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PRST 6420 Field Studies: Central America Gene Cizek and Mark Thomas March 2009

Figure 31: Iglesia de Jocotenango

Figure 32: Ruins of Iglesia de la Compania de Jess

Figure 33: Cooperacin Espaola students at work

Figure 34: Lunch at a coffee plantation

Figure 35: Marimba band

Figure 36: San Jos Cathedral in Antigua

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PRST 6420 Field Studies: Central America Gene Cizek and Mark Thomas March 2009

Figure 37: San Francisco el Grande Church, Antigua Figure 38: Iglesia del Hospital de San Pedro

Figure 39: Nuestra Seora de la Merced in Antigua Figure 40: Ruins of El Carmen Church in Antigua

Figure 41: Convento de las Capuchinas in Antigua

Figure 42: Arch of Santa Catalina in Antigua

Anthony DelRosario Master in Preservation Studies - Tulane School of Architecture

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PRST 6420 Field Studies: Central America Gene Cizek and Mark Thomas March 2009

Figure 43: Casa del Jade museum & store in Antigua Figure 44: Cooperativa in Santiago Zamora

Figure 45: Wedding ceremony in Santiago Zamora Figure 46: Food at Santiago Zamora

Figure 47: Cooking in Santiago Zamora

Figure 48: Hostesses in Santiago Zamora

All photographs were taken by the author.


Anthony DelRosario Master in Preservation Studies - Tulane School of Architecture

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