Technical Proces From Development To Red Tag (English - 1220)

Express Sourcing and Production
TECHNICAL SEMINAR 2006

HONG KONG
 BEST PRACTICES
- Process
- Patterns ( including E-Pattern )
- Tech pack
- Sample execution
- Fit (mannequin vs. live model)
Design by : Habiba Milnarevic ( ESP 1 Update : December, 20 2005

HONG KONG
 AGENDA
2. Process for samples in development stage,
First Fit, Red Tag and PP size set
- Tech packs review
- Pattern review or block review
- Reference sample review
- Communication
- Timing
- Pattern development

HONG KONG
- Sample development
- Sample review
- Sample measuring
- Comments
- Documentation
7. Fitting samples on mannequin and live fit

model
- How to fit on mannequin
- How to fit on live fit model

Fitting samples on mannequin and live fit model


HONG KONG
Tech Packs Review
 Review all pages in the tech pack to

ensure understanding and information are
correct.
 If any discrepancy, communicate with your
counterpart before proceeding
 Never assume, always make sure

Review all pages in the tech pack ( example )


HONG KONG
 Pattern Review or Block Review
• Correct pattern is very important, which is spirit of
the garment, make sure to check clearly before
proceeding.
• Should refer to tech pack which block or reference
pattern for starting use :--
 Measure all POM on the pattern to know starting point of
measurement
 Check balance on the pattern
 For discrepancy, communicate with your counterpart
before proceeding.

HONG KONG
• Where to refer block /
reference pattern?
– Left hand side of upper
corner on the tech will have
wording called “ Block # “.
– If there is nothing, or blank.
Please refer to the right
hand side of bottom corner
column called “ Memo “.


HONG KONG
• If the left hand side “ Block # “ is nothing, or blank. Please
refer to the details on the column called “ Memo : “.
• Contact ESP Senior Pattern Technologist ( Alex Alvaro )

for getting proper block / reference pattern.


HONG KONG
E-Pattern Filing System
 Block or Reference Pattern
• When the block, or reference pattern received
from ESP, factory should save it into their
Accumark system properly.
• Factory should use the proper block, or
reference pattern as shape / silhouette as
starting point.
• Try to achieve the measurements ( Key points )
as spec of individual style as indicated.
Block Library in Accumark System ( example )


HONG KONG
 E-Pattern from factory
• When E-Pattern has been sent to ESP, factory
should save it properly in their Accumark
system, in order for better filing system in place
and take proper action in need.
– Development ( Proto / Handoff ) Stage – D
– Fit Sample Stage – F
– Red Tag Sample Stage – P
• E.g. Development E-pattern ( 92S1234D )
• E.g. Fit Sample E-pattern ( 92S1234F )
• E.g. Red Tag Sample E-pattern ( 92S1234P )
E-Pattern Library in Accumark System ( example )


HONG KONG
Reference Sample Review
 Based on instructions review all points on

reference sample to ensure understanding
 Fit sample on mannequin to understand the fit
and styling
 If any discrepancy, communicate with your
counterpart before proceeding


HONG KONG
Communication
 Before proceeding with pattern and sample with any
question, communicate with your counterpart to
ensure full understanding.
 Pass to factory as package:
Tech pack
Block or reference pattern
Sample reference
The best practice is to go to the factory
and work directly with pattern maker and
sample room technician.

HONG KONG
Timing
 How you can get the early

approval, depends on how you can
speed up the timing on sampling.
 From date of receiving tech pack,
pattern, reference sample, the
deadline for sending new sample
back to your counterpart is ONE
WEEK ( 5 working days )


HONG KONG
Pattern development
Develop new pattern by using block or reference
pattern
Measure all POM on the block or reference
pattern to know starting point of measurement
Check balance on the block or reference pattern
If balance is there proceed with new pattern
If pattern does not have balance, correct balance
and proceed with new pattern following
MEASUREMENT FROM SPEC OF NEW STYLE


HONG KONG
Sample development
 Sample must be 100% CORRECT with good fit,
construction and workmanship
 HOW TO ACHIEVE :
- Your full understanding of tech pack, pattern, fit and
styling
- Factory pattern maker, technician and sample sewers
full understanding of tech pack, pattern, fit and styling
- Fabric MUST BE preshrunk to 0% shrinkage.
- Use pattern with 0% shrinkage fabric to cut sample

Steam Setting Machine – Woven Fabric


HONG KONG
Sample review
– By factory:
- Finished sample, factory pattern maker should review
with sample-sewer and factory technician for fit,
styling, construction and workmanship
- Factory technician inspect sample following tech pack
page by page to ensure all detail are done properly
- If sample is developed as tech pack, measure as spec
send to your counterpart
- If not correct, DO NOT send the sample. Correct
the problems and proceed with new sample.

HONG KONG
Sample review
– By ESP technician:
- ESP technician review sample for fit, styling,
construction and workmanship
- ESP technician inspect sample following tech pack
page by page to ensure all detail are done
- If sample is developed as tech pack, measure ( key
points only ) as spec send to your counterpart
- If not correct, DO NOT send the sample. Go back to
Factory review the problems and request to proceed
with new sample.

HONG KONG
Sample measuring
– By Factory:
- Sample MUST BE measured following EXPRESS
MEASURING MANUAL
- If the sample measures as spec send to your counterpart in
ESP
- If not correct, DO NOT send the sample, correct the
problem and proceed with new sample
– By ESP technician:
- ESP technician DOES NOT measure the sample, Spot
check only. If factory do not measure correctly, take
action, calibrate with factory and solve the problem.
EXPRESS Measuring Manual - 2003


HONG KONG
Comments:
- Factory comments
- Comments for developed sample (Proto, First Fit and Red Tag) must be
done point by point, clear and understandable.
- If sample is developed as per tech pack, the best practice to comment
sample is:
Fit: Good
Construction: As per tech pack ( which means all pages on
the tech packs are checked in process of reviewing the sample by
factory technician, with check mark. If any discrepancy factory technician
must specified on the tech pack)
Workmanship: List problems only. If it is small issue with
workmanship, sample can be sent to your counterpart.


HONG KONG
- ESP technician comments:
- Passing factory comments to counterpart
- Comments for developed sample (Proto, First Fit and Red Tag must
be done point by point, clear and understandable.
- If sample is developed as per tech pack, the best practice to
comment sample is:
- ESP technician should enter factory comments to PDM / sample
evaluation, or e-mail add additional comments if needed.
Fit: Approved
Construction: As per tech pack ( which means all
pages on the tech packs are checked in process of reviewing the
sample by factory technician, with check mark. If any discrepancy,
factory technician must specified on the tech pack)
Workmanship: List problems only. If it is small
issue with workmanship sample can be sent to your counterpart.


HONG KONG
 Documentation:
- With every sample, factory has to send as the following :
- Correct sample
- Full tech pack with check mark on all pages
- E-Pattern with 0% shrinkage in development stage, First Fit.
- E-Pattern with 0%, and with shrinkage in Red Tag stage only.
- E-Graded nest with 0% shrinkage in Red Tag stage only
- The yellow ESP hang-tag must be attached on each sample filled in
with requested information ( Factory, style #, fabric, wash etc. )
- Trim test reports must be sent with Red Tag samples
- Comments page must be attached to the hang-tag on all stages
ESP TECHNICIAN REVIEW ALL DOCUMENTATIONS AND IF IT IS

CORRECT SEND TO COUNTERPART. IF NOT, TAKE ACTION TO
SOLVE THE PROBLEM


HONG KONG
Tracking System Report
• by ESP office
• ESP tech and merchandising team will

work on the data of tracking system from
development to production.
• Merchandising will forward the reports for
factory to update the production status
weekly.

HONG KONG
Tracking System Report
• by factory
• Update the production status weekly.

• Forward to relevant ESP merchandising
team every Tuesday ( the latest ).
• This tracking system is good for both ESP
and factory for tracking all sampling and
production status, which was not existing
from the past.

HONG KONG
Tracking System Report ( example )


• What is a Mannequin?
– Each company/label designs
a mannequin based on their
“ideal customers” average
size
– A mannequin is a set of
symmetrical measurements,
which create the average
“ideal customer”
– Each mannequins
measurements vary from
company to company
depending on their standards

• Fitting on a Mannequin
• The purpose of a mannequin is to
make to fit the garment and make
sure the garment has balance.
• Mannequins are utilized by each
field in the industry (from the
beginning of a garment to a
finished garment ready for
production)
– Designers use the mannequin
when creating a new design
– Manufacturers use the
mannequin for displaying the
garment
– Technician use the mannequin
for patternmaking and fittings

• Fitting procedure:
– Before fitting make sure you have a pattern, tech
pack and spec with the garment
– Place the garment on mannequin while following spec
and tech pack instructions.
– Put garment on mannequin as if a real person was
wearing it
– Never make garment look unnatural on mannequin
– Do not smooth out garment
– Do not adjust to match mannequin lines
– Follow spec information for garment placement
– In order to get a good first impression of the garment,
it is beneficial to step back from the mannequin,
observing; style, fit, and details of the garment
– Judge:
• Style
• Fabric
• Color, etc.
• Start fitting from top of garment to bottom.

– Concentrate on fit only
– Do not do fitting and workmanship same time
– Fit one side of garment at a time
– When fitting a garment on a mannequin fit both
inside out and right side out.
– Pin the garment where the pattern should be
adjusted
• after pinning have the fit model (if available) try it on in
order to make sure the adjustments are correct


• Fitting a Camisole
– Put the garment on the mannequin as if a real person is wearing it
• Do not smooth out garment on mannequin so it is forced to fit

the proper way
• Established straps length base on spec.
• If straps are adjustable established placement
• The straps should be symmetrical to shoulder seam on
mannequin
• Center of camisole should match the center line on the
mannequin
• The waist front dart on the garment should be symmetrical to
the style line
• It is very important that the front dart ends before the apex
• Side seam of camisole should match the side seam line on the
mannequin

• If the side seam of the camisole is designed to be to the

left or right of the side seam on the mannequin, it still
must remain parallel to the mannequins side seam
• If there is no side seam (side panels) on the garment,
mark where the side seam should be in order to
determine if the garment is balanced on the mannequin
• If the center front and side seam lines on the garment
line up with the center front and side seam lines on the
mannequin, it shows that the garment has balance
– If the garment is balanced on the mannequin, you can

proceed with fitting.
– Even if the garment is balanced on the mannequin, there
can still be other fit issues; you must proceed with fitting

The strap should be symmetrical to

shoulder seam on mannequin
Center of the Camisole should be match

the center line on the mannequin

Side seam of the camisole should match

the side seam line on the mannequin

The straps should be symmetrical to

shoulder seam on mannequin The straps should
be symmetricalThe
to straps should
shoulder seam on symmetrical to
be
mannequin shoulder seam on
mannequin
Center of
Center of the camisole should match the the
camisole
center line of the mannequin should
match the
center line
on the
mannequin


CAMISOLE IS DRAPING ON THE
BACK:
Draping on the back

CAMISOLE IS DRAPING ON THE BACK: Dot line on
the pattern showing how to fix the problem

CAMISOLE IS HIKING ON THE FRONT :
Hiking on the front

CAMISOLE IS HIKONG ON THE FRONT:
Dot line on the pattern showing how to fix the problem


• Fitting Women’s Shirts

– Put the garment on the mannequin as if a real
person is wearing it
2. Do not smooth out garment on mannequin so it is

forced to fit the proper way
3. The shoulder seam on the garment should match
the shoulder seam on the mannequin
4. If the shoulder seam on the garment is designed
to be forward or backward of the shoulder seam
on the mannequin, it should still remain
symmetrical
5. If there is no shoulder seam (yoke) on the
garment, mark where the shoulder seam should
be in order to determine if the garment is
balanced on the mannequin
1. In order to determine that the sleeves are balanced
you need to establish a center sleeve line (grain-
line)
2. The grain-line on the sleeve of the shirt should
match the side seam on the mannequin
 In some companies the sleeve may be slightly forward on
the front of the garment.
3. Center of the garment (button hole line) should
match the center line on the mannequin
4. If there is not center front closure on the garment,
mark where the center front closure should be in
order to determine of the garment is balanced on
the mannequin
5. The waist front dart on the garment should be
symmetrical to the style line
6. It is very important that the front dart ends before
the apex
1. Side seam of shirt should match the side seam line on
the mannequin
2. If the side seam of the garment is designed to be to the
left or right of the side seam on the mannequin, it still
must remain parallel to the mannequins side seam
3. If there is no side seam (side panels) on the garment,
determine if the garment is balanced on the mannequin
4. If the center front and side seam lines on the garment
 If the garment is balanced on the mannequin, you can
 Even if the garment is balanced on the mannequin, there
can still be other fit issues; you must proceed with fitting
Center of the garment (button hole

Center of the line) should match the center line on
garment
apex
(button hole the mannequin
line) should
match the
center line on
the mannequin
It is very important that the front dart
ends before the apex
The waist
dart on the
The waist dart on the garment should
garment be symmetrical to the style line of
should be
symmetrical mannequin
to the style
line

The grainline
on the sleeve
of the shirt The grain-line on the sleeve of the
should match
the side seam
shirt should match the side seam
on the on the mannequin
mannequin

Side seam of
the shirt should
match the side
seam line on
Side seam of
the mannequin
the shirt should
match the side The side seam of the shirt should
seam line on
the mannequin match the side seam line on the
mannequin

The shoulder
seam/shoulder
The shoulder seam / shoulder line on
line on the the garment should match the
garment should
match the shoulder seam on the mannequin
shoulder seam
on the
mannequin
The waist
dart on the The waist dart on the garment should
garment
should be be symmetrical to the style line of
symmetrical
to the style
mannequin
line


TIGHT ON UPPER ARM:
Tight on upper arm

TIGHT ON UPPER ARM:

SCISSORS ON FRONT FROM BALANCE ON
SHOULDERS:

THE SLEEVE IS FORWARD:
Sleeve is too
forward

THE SLEEVE IS FORWARD:

THE SLEEVE IS BACKWARD ON THE SHIRT:
Sleeve backward on shirt

THE SLEEVE IS BACKWARD ON THE
SHIRT:


• Fitting Women’s Jacket

1. Do not smooth out garment on mannequin so it is
2. The shoulder seam on the garment should match
the shoulder seam on the mannequin
3. If the shoulder seam on the garment is designed to
be forward or backward of the shoulder seam on
the mannequin, it should still remain symmetrical
4. If there is no shoulder seam (yoke) on the garment,
mark where the shoulder seam should be in order
to determine if the garment is balanced on the
mannequin
• In order to determine that the sleeves are balanced
you need to establish a center sleeve line (grain-line)
• The grain-line on the sleeve of the jacket should
• Center of the garment (button hole line) should match
• If there is not center front closure on the garment,
order to determine of the garment is balanced on the
mannequin
• The waist front dart on the garment should be
symmetrical to the style line
• It is very important that the front dart ends before the
apex
• Side seam of jacket should match the side seam line
on the mannequin

1. If the side seam of the garment is designed to be to

the left or right of the side seam on the mannequin, it
still must remain parallel to the mannequins side seam
2. If there is no side seam (side panels) on the garment,
determine if the garment is balanced on the
mannequin
3. If the center front and side seam lines on the garment
• If the garment is balanced on the mannequin, you can

• Even if the garment is balanced on the mannequin, there
can still be other issues; you must proceed with fitting.

Shoulder seam on the garment

Shoulder should match the shoulder seam on
seam on the
garment the mannequin
should
match the
shoulder
seam on the
It is very important that the front dart
apex
mannequin ends before the apex
Center of the garment (button hole

The waist dart The center of line) should match the center line on
on the the garment
garment (buttonhole the mannequin
should be line) should
symmetrical match the
to the style center line on
line the The waist dart on the garment should
mannequin
be symmetrical to the style line of
mannequin

Shoulder seam on the garment

Shoulder
seam on the
should match the shoulder seam on
garment the mannequin
should match
the shoulder
The center of
seam on the
the garment
mannequin
(buttonhole
line) should Center of the garment (button hole
match the
center line on line) should match the center line on
the
mannequin the mannequin

The grainline on
the sleeve of the
jacket should
The grain-line on the sleeve of the jacket
match the side should match the side seam on the
seam on the
mannequin mannequin

The grain line on

the sleeve of the The grain-line on the sleeve of the coat
coat should
match the side should match the side seam on the
seam on the
mannequin
mannequin

Side seam of
jacket should
The side seam of the jacket should
match the match the side seam line on the
side seam
line on the mannequin
mannequin

Side seam of
jacket should
The side seam of the jacket should
match the side match the side seam line on the
seam line on the
mannequin mannequin


TIGHT ON UPPER ARM OF THE JACKET:
Tight on upper arm

TIGHT ON UPPER ARM OF THE JACKET:
Dot line on the pattern showing how to fix the
problem

JACKET PULLING ON NECK TO ARMHOLE:
Pulling on neck
to armhole

JACKET PULLING ON NECK TO ARMHOLE:

PULLING DOWN ON SLEEVE:
Pulling down

PULLING DOWN ON SLEEVE:


• Fitting a Skirt

• Do not smooth out garment on mannequin so it is

• Start fitting the garment from the natural waistline
• If the garment sits below the natural waistline, the
waist placement should be determined based on the
spec
• The side seam of the garment should match the side
seam line on the mannequin

• If the side seam of the garment is designed to be to

still must remain parallel to the mannequins side
seam
• If there is no side seam (side panels) on the garment,
mannequin

– Even if the garment is balanced on the mannequin,
there can still be other issues; you must proceed with
fitting.

From natural waist

to waist placement
(should be Correct waist placement should be
determined from
spec) at both front determined based on the spec
and center back.

The side
seam of The side seam of the garment should
the
garment match the side seam line on the
should
match the
mannequin
side seam
line on the
mannequin


SKIRT LEANING BACK:
Leaning back

SKIRT LEANING BACK:

COLLAPSING AT OUTSEAM:
Collapsing at out-
seam

COLLAPSING AT OUTSEAM:

SKIRT LEANING FORWARD:
Leaning forward

SKIRT LEANING FORWARD:


• Fitting Pants/Cropped Pants/Shorts

• Do not smooth out garment on mannequin so it is forced

to fit the proper way
• Start fitting the garment from the natural waistline
• If the garment sits below the natural waistline, the waist
placement should be determined based on the spec
• The rise of the garment should match the rise of the
mannequin (center front and center back should be
aligned)

• The side seam of the garment should match the

side seam line on the mannequin
• If the side seam of the garment is designed to be
to the left or right of the side seam on the
mannequin, it still must remain parallel to the
mannequins side seam
• If there is no side seam (side panels) on the
garment, mark where the side seam should be in
order to determine if the garment is balanced on
the mannequin
• The inseam of the garment should match the
inseam on the mannequin

• If the inseam of the garment is designed to be to

the left or right of the inseam on the mannequin, it
still must remain parallel to the mannequins
inseam
• If there is no inseam (side panels) on the garment,
mark where the inseam should be in order to
mannequin

– Even if the garment is balanced on the mannequin,
there can still be other issues; you must proceed with
fitting.

From natural waist to

waist placement Correct waist placement should be
(should be
determined from
determined based on the spec
spec) at both front
and center back.

The side seam of the

garment should match The side seam of the garment should
the side seam line on
the mannequin match the side seam line of the
mannequin

The inseam of the

garment should The inseam of the garment should
match the inseam on
the mannequin match the inseam of the mannequin


WHISKERS AT FRONT CROTCH:
Whiskers / smiling
at front crotch

WHISKERS AT FRONT CROTCH:

HORIZONTAL DRAGGING LINES AT FRONT SEAT–LEG SHOOTING
FORWARD:

INSEAM TOO FORWARD:
Inseam too forward

INSEAM TOO FORWARD:

NOT ENOUGH SADDLE-THROUGH ROOM:
Not enough saddle

through room

NOT ENOUGH SADDLE-THROUGH ROOM:

POUCHY AT CROTCH:
Pouchy at crotch

POUCHY AT CROTCH:

DRAGGING LINES FROM BOTTOM BACK SEAT TO BACK
LEG:
Dragging lines from

bottom back seat to
back leg

DRAGGING LINES FROM BOTTOM BACK SEAT TO BACK
LEG:


• What is a Mannequin?
– Each company/label designs
a mannequin based on their
“ideal customers” average
size
– A mannequin is a set of
symmetrical measurements,
which create the average
“ideal customer”
– Each mannequins
measurements vary from
company to company
depending on their standards

• Fitting on a Mannequin
• The purpose of a mannequin is to
make to fit the garment and make
sure the garment has balance.
• Mannequins are utilized by each
field in the industry (from the
beginning of a garment to a
finished garment ready for
production)
– Designers use the mannequin
when creating a new design
– Manufacturers use the
mannequin for displaying the
garment
– Technician use the mannequin
for patternmaking and fittings

• Fitting procedure:
– Before fitting make sure you have a pattern, tech
pack and spec with the garment
– Place the garment on mannequin while following spec
and tech pack instructions.
– Put garment on mannequin as if a real person was
wearing it
– Never make garment look unnatural on mannequin
– Do not smooth out garment
– Do not adjust to match mannequin lines
– Follow spec information for garment placement
– In order to get a good first impression of the garment,
it is beneficial to step back from the mannequin,
observing; style, fit, and details of the garment
– Judge:
• Style
• Fabric
• Color, etc.
• Start fitting from top of garment to bottom.

– Concentrate on fit only
– Do not do fitting and workmanship same time
– Fit one side of garment at a time
– When fitting a garment on a mannequin fit both
inside out and right side in
– Pin the garment where the pattern should be
adjusted
• after pinning have the fit model (if available) try on in
order to make sure the adjustments are correct


• Fitting Men’s Shirts

• Put the garment on the mannequin as if a real person
is wearing it
– Do not smooth out garment on mannequin so it is forced to

fit the proper way
– The shoulder seam on the garment should match the
shoulder seam on the mannequin
– If the shoulder seam on the garment is designed to be
forward or backward of the shoulder seam on the
mannequin, it should still remain symmetrical
– If there is no shoulder seam (yoke) on the garment, mark
where the shoulder seam should be in order to determine if
the garment is balanced on the mannequin
– In order to determine that the sleeves are balanced

you need to establish a center sleeve line (grain line)
– The grain line on the sleeve of the shirt should match
the side seam on the mannequin
– Center of the garment (button hole line) should match
– If there is not center front closure on the garment,
mannequin
– Side seam of shirt should match the side seam line
on the mannequin
– If the side seam of the garment is designed to be to
seam

– If there is no side seam (side panels) on the garment,

mannequin
– If the center front and side seam lines on the garment
line up with the center front and side seam lines on
the mannequin, it shows that the garment has
balance

can still be other fit issues; you must proceed with fitting.

The center of the
The
garment (button hole
shoulder
line) should match the Center of the garment (button hole
seam on the
garment
center line of the
line) should match the center line on
should
match the the mannequin
shoulder
seam on the
mannequin
mannequin Shoulder seam on the garment
should match the shoulder seam on
the mannequin

The grain line

and side seam The grain-line on the sleeve of the
should match
the side seam
shirt should match the side seam
on the
mannequin
on the mannequin


• Fitting Men’s Jackets

• Put the garment on the mannequin as if a real person
is wearing it
– Do not smooth out garment on mannequin so it is forced to

fit the proper way
– The shoulder seam on the garment should match the
shoulder seam on the mannequin
– If the shoulder seam on the garment is designed to be
forward or backward of the shoulder seam on the
mannequin, it should still remain symmetrical
– If there is no shoulder seam (yoke) on the garment, mark
where the shoulder seam should be in order to determine if
the garment is balanced on the mannequin
– In order to determine that the sleeves are balanced

you need to establish a center sleeve line (grain line)
– The grain line on the sleeve of the jacket should
– Center of the garment (button hole line) should match
– If there is not center front closure on the garment,
mannequin
– Side seam of jacket should match the side seam line
on the mannequin
– If the side seam of the garment is designed to be to
seam

– If there is no side seam (side panels) on the garment,

mannequin
– If the center front and side seam lines on the garment
line up with the center front and side seam lines on
the mannequin, it shows that the garment has
balance

can still be other issues, that will make the garments fit
unacceptable

The Shoulder seam on the garment

shoulder
seam on should match the shoulder seam on
the
garment
the mannequin
should
match the
The center
shoulder
of the Center of the garment (button hole
seam on
the
garment
(button hole
line) should match the center line on
mannequin
line) should the mannequin
match the
center line of
the
mannequin

The grain line

on the sleeve The grain-line on the sleeve of the
of the jacket
should match
jacket should match the side
the side
seam on the
seam on the mannequin
mannequin

The
shoulder
seam on
the garment The side seam of the jacket should
should
match the
match the side seam line on the
shoulder
seam on
mannequin
the
mannequin


• Fitting Men’s Pants

• Put the garment on the mannequin as if a
real person is wearing it
– Do not smooth out garment on mannequin so it
is forced to fit the proper way
– Start fitting the garment from the natural
waistline
– If the garment sits below the natural waistline,
the waist placement should be determined based
on the spec
– The rise of the garment should match the rise of
the mannequin (center front and center back
should be aligned)
– The side seam of the garment should match

the side seam line on the mannequin
– If the side seam of the garment is designed to
be to the left or right of the side seam on the
mannequins side seam
– If there is no side seam (side panels) on the
garment, mark where the side seam should
be in order to determine if the garment is
balanced on the mannequin
– The inseam of the garment should match the
inseam on the mannequin

– If the inseam of the garment is designed to be

to the left or right of the inseam on the
mannequins inseam
– If there is no inseam (side panels) on the
garment, mark where the inseam should be in
order to determine if the garment is balanced
on the mannequin
• If the garment is balanced on the mannequin,
you can proceed with fitting.
• Even if the garment is balanced on the
mannequin, there can still be other issues, that
will make the garments fit unacceptable.
The rise of the

garment should
match the rise of
the mannequin The rise of the garment should
(center front and
center back should
match the rise of the mannequin
be aligned) (center front and center back
should be aligned)

The inseam of the The inseam of the garment should

garment should
match the inseam match the inseam of the mannequin
on the mannequin
The side seam of the garment should

The side seam match the side seam line of the
of the garment
should match
mannequin
the side seam
line on the
mannequin

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Technical Proces From Development To Red Tag (English - 1220)

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Express Sourcing and Production

TECHNICAL SEMINAR 2006

TECHNICAL SEMINAR 2006

TECHNICAL SEMINAR 2006

7. Fitting samples on mannequin and live fit

Design by : Habiba Milnarevic ( ESP 3 Update : December, 20 2005

Fitting samples on mannequin and live fit model

TECHNICAL SEMINAR 2006

 Review all pages in the tech pack to

Design by : Habiba Milnarevic ( ESP 5 Update : December, 20 2005

Review all pages in the tech pack ( example )

TECHNICAL SEMINAR 2006

TECHNICAL SEMINAR 2006

Design by : Habiba Milnarevic ( ESP 8 Update : December, 20 2005

TECHNICAL SEMINAR 2006

• Contact ESP Senior Pattern Technologist ( Alex Alvaro )

Design by : Habiba Milnarevic ( ESP 9 Update : December, 20 2005

TECHNICAL SEMINAR 2006

Block Library in Accumark System ( example )

TECHNICAL SEMINAR 2006

E-Pattern Library in Accumark System ( example )

TECHNICAL SEMINAR 2006

 Based on instructions review all points on

Design by : Habiba Milnarevic ( ESP 14 Update : December, 20 2005

TECHNICAL SEMINAR 2006

TECHNICAL SEMINAR 2006

 How you can get the early

Design by : Habiba Milnarevic ( ESP 16 Update : December, 20 2005

TECHNICAL SEMINAR 2006

Design by : Habiba Milnarevic ( ESP 17 Update : December, 20 2005

TECHNICAL SEMINAR 2006

Design by : Habiba Milnarevic ( ESP 18 Update : December, 20 2005

Steam Setting Machine – Woven Fabric

Design by : Habiba Milnarevic ( ESP 19 Update : December, 20 2005

TECHNICAL SEMINAR 2006

TECHNICAL SEMINAR 2006

TECHNICAL SEMINAR 2006

EXPRESS Measuring Manual - 2003

TECHNICAL SEMINAR 2006

Design by : Habiba Milnarevic ( ESP 24 Update : December, 20 2005

TECHNICAL SEMINAR 2006

Design by : Habiba Milnarevic ( ESP 25 Update : December, 20 2005

TECHNICAL SEMINAR 2006

ESP TECHNICIAN REVIEW ALL DOCUMENTATIONS AND IF IT IS

Design by : Habiba Milnarevic ( ESP 26 Update : December, 20 2005

TECHNICAL SEMINAR 2006

• ESP tech and merchandising team will

TECHNICAL SEMINAR 2006

• Update the production status weekly.

TECHNICAL SEMINAR 2006

Tracking System Report ( example )

Design by : Habiba Milnarevic ( ESP 30 Update : December, 20 2005

Design by : Habiba Milnarevic ( ESP 31 Update : December, 20 2005

Design by : Habiba Milnarevic ( ESP 32 Update : December, 20 2005

• Start fitting from top of garment to bottom.

Design by : Habiba Milnarevic ( ESP 34 Update : December, 20 2005

Design by : Habiba Milnarevic ( ESP 35 Update : December, 20 2005

• Do not smooth out garment on mannequin so it is forced to fit

Design by : Habiba Milnarevic ( ESP 36 Update : December, 20 2005

• If the side seam of the camisole is designed to be to the

– If the garment is balanced on the mannequin, you can

Design by : Habiba Milnarevic ( ESP 37 Update : December, 20 2005