HKD40 | MOP40 | RMB42 | NTD180 | SGD8 | USD6 | 4

tasting kitchen #4 nov 2012

Hong Kong & Macau central Macau

White Truffles

Amber Center Stage

Haute Chocolate

 Lunch: 12:00 noon - 2:30 pm

Dinner: 6:30 pm - 10:30 pm

Reservations: (853) 8803 7878

12:00 noon 2:30 pm 12:00 noon --2:30 pm StaRS

Lunch: Lunch: MicheLin

Dinner: Dinner: 6:30 pm 10:30 pm 6:30 pm --10:30 pm

Setting the StanDaRD FoR Dining

Reservations: (853) 8803 7878 Reservations: (853) 8803 7878

MicheLin MicheLin
StaRS StaRS

Setting theis the only complex in the world with three Michelin-starred restaurants under one roof. The Lisboa Hotels StanDaRD FoR Dining
It is also the first establishment in China to receive the Wine Spectators Grand Award. Housing an extensive wine collection of over 8,600 labels, the Lisboa Hotels Complex boasts one of the finest wine cellars in Asia. The Lisboa Hotels is the only complex in the world with three Michelin-starred restaurants under one roof. The Lisboa Hotels is the only complex in the world with three Michelin-starred restaurants under one roof. 8,600 It is also the first establishment in China to receive the Wine Spectators Grand Award. It is also the first establishment in China to receive the Wine Spectators Grand Award. Award Wine SpectatorGrand Housing an extensive wine collection of over 8,600 labels, the Lisboa Hotels Complex boasts one of the finest wine cellars in Asia. Housing an extensive wine collection of over 8,600 labels, the Lisboa Hotels Complex boasts one of the finest wine cellars in Asia. 8,600 8,600
Le Caviar

the Lisboa ceLLars

The Lisboa Cellars boasts one of the finest wine collections in the world with over 8,600 labels, of which over 900 are rated 95 100 and about 3,000 are rated 90 94 by Wine Spectator. Indulge yourself at any of the dining establishments within the Lisboa Hotels Complex where culinary artistry is matched with the finest wines. 8,600900

Wine SpectatorGrand Award Wine SpectatorGrand Award

www.grandlisboahotel.com | www.hotelisboa.com

www.grandlisboahotel.com www.hotelisboa.com www.grandlisboahotel.com || www.hotelisboa.com

Le Caviar Le Caviar

Lunch: 12:00 noon - 2:30 pm

Dinner: 6:30 pm - 10:30 pm

Wine Spectator95 1003,000 90 94

Reservations: (853) 8803 7788

Lunch: Lunch: 12:00 noon 2:30 pm 12:00 noon --2:30 pm

Dinner: Dinner: 6:30 pm 10:30 pm 6:30 pm --10:30 pm

MicheLin
StaRS

www.grandlisboahotel.com | www.hotelisboa.com
Lunch: 12:00 noon - 2:30 pm Dinner: 6:30 pm - 10:30 pm Lunch: 12:00 noon - 2:30 pm Dinner: 6:30 pm - 10:30 pm

Reservations: (853) 8803 7788 Reservations: (853) 8803 7788

MicheLin MicheLin
StaRS StaRS

Reservations: (853) 8803 7722

Reservations: (853) 8803 7676

Lunch: Lunch: 12:00 noon --2:30 pm 12:00 noon 2:30 pm

Dinner: Dinner: 6:30 pm --10:30 pm 6:30 pm 10:30 pm

Lunch: Lunch: 12:00 noon --2:30 pm 12:00 noon 2:30 pm

Dinner: Dinner: 6:30 pm --10:30 pm 6:30 pm 10:30 pm

Reservations: (853) 8803 7722 Reservations: (853) 8803 7722

Reservations: (853) 8803 7676 Reservations: (853) 8803 7676

Stir-fried Lobster with Egg, Minced Pork and Black Bean

Lunch: 12:00 noon - 2:30 pm

Dinner: 6:30 pm - 10:30 pm

Lunch: 12:00 noon - 2:30 pm

Dinner: 6:30 pm - 10:30 pm

Reservations: (853) 8803 7777

Reservations: (853) 8803 3677

Stir-fried Lobster with Egg, Stir-fried Lobster with Egg, Minced Pork and Black Bean Minced Pork and Black Bean

Lunch: Lunch: 12:00 noon --2:30 pm 12:00 noon 2:30 pm

Dinner: Dinner: 6:30 pm --10:30 pm 6:30 pm 10:30 pm

Lunch: Lunch: 12:00 noon --2:30 pm 12:00 noon 2:30 pm

Dinner: Dinner: 6:30 pm --10:30 pm 6:30 pm 10:30 pm

Reservations: (853) 8803 7777 Reservations: (853) 8803 7777

Reservations: (853) 8803 3677 Reservations: (853) 8803 3677

starter

The flavors and aromas of Brittany blue lobster, celeriac mash, foie gras and shaved white truffle intermingle and intensify in The Tasting Room's covered glass bowls until the guests themselves lift the lids to breathe in the complex bouquet.

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editors note

Welcome to Tasting Kitchen. Its truffle season, and in this, our fourth issue, were serving up white truffle dishes from cover to cover, all prepared by some of Hong Kong and Macaus most talented chefs. Our starter is a luxurious combination of lobster, foie gras and truffles. Our entre selections pair the famously aromatic fungus with eggs and quail and cheese and ravioli. Save room for dessert its a cream-and-truffles-andbiscotto extravaganza created especially for Tasting Kitchen. Truffle season doesnt last long, so it feels right to binge a little. But man cannot live on truffles alone. Weve also got chocolate, a deconstructed daiquiri, mulled wine, Japanese kaiseki, dreamy good tempura with sake, salmon six ways with Aquavit, and some of the very best French food in Asia, cooked by a Dutchman. Its an issue filled to bursting with delicious food and drink. Enjoy!
Jeff Hammons
EDITOR AT LARGE jhammons@macau.com

n o v

2 0 1 2

I s s u e

# 4

w h I t e

t r u f f l e s

Tasting Kitchen 7A, 22/F, Kodak House II 39 Healthy East Street Quarry Bay, Hong Kong Tel: +852 2642 0008

Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the Pearl River Deltas finest restaurants, greatest chefs and most delicious food. Our mission is simple: to share our enthusiasm for all the great culinary experiences the region has to offer.

Mark Hammons
GROUP MAnAGInG DIRECTOR & CO-PUBLISHER mhammons@igniteasia.com

Jenny Man
GROUP GEnERAL MAnAGER & CO-PUBLISHER jman@igniteasia.com

Jean Alberti
CHEF AT LARGE jalberti@macau.com

David Hartung
DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHy

Alicia beebe
ART DIRECTOR

CM

Mamie Chen
ExECUTIvE EDITOR

Kennis Yuen
PRODUCTIOn MAnAGER
MY

Helene Wong
CHInESE EDITOR

Anita Leong
CIRCULATIOn MAnAGER

CY

CMY

Yvonne Cheong
EDITORIAL COORDInATOR

Jorge Vincent Ao
DISTRIBUTIOn ExECUTIvE

Crystal Tai, Inara Sim

EDITORS

Ivan Lam
ACCOUnTAnT

group ADVerTISIng sales@igniteasia.com

Hong Kong offICe MACAu offICe

Stanley Lau
ASST. SALES DIRECTOR +852 5159 0267 slau@igniteasia.com

gerard William Whitty

ASST. SALES DIRECTOR +853 6279 2238 gwhitty@igniteasia.com

on our cover
The Alba white truffle on the cover was photographed at LAtelier de Jol Robuchon in Hong Kong. LAtelier de Jol Robuchon

SubSCrIpTIonS subscriptions@igniteasia.com

prInTIng
Emerald Data Processing and Printing Company Limited 3/F, Cheung Lee Industrial Building 9 Cheung Lee Street, Chai Wan, Hong Kong Tasting Kitchen 2012. All rights reserved

on page 8
Alba white truffles with ovoli mushrooms (Ovoli), by Chef Umberto Bombana.

Photographs by David Hartung

A member of Ignite Media Group (Hong Kong) Limited

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contents
A Moveable Feast 10 Peerless Baccarat 12 Retro Modern 14 Tis The Season 16 Years of Experience, Moments of Delight 18 Heaven-Sent Tempura 20 Center Stage 24 The Exalted Alba Madonna 28 Fantastic Northern Flavors 40 Haute Chocolate 46 Seductive Deconstruction 54 Restaurants 58

SCOTCH WHISKY

SINGLE MALT

10 12

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28

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18 20

24 58

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SKILLFULLY CRAFTED. ENJOY RESPONSIBLY.

inspired living

a moveable feast
Valcucine turns tidiness into an art form

Italian haute kitchen designers Valcucine have created the dream galley for compact urban living spaces. Their new Logica System is the epitome of sleek, efficient kitchen design, featuring drawers that glide out at a touch, deceptively spacious cabinets and cupboards, sliding countertops and an ultraclean, space-enhancing look. When youre done cooking, all the pots and pans and plates and silverware can disappear in a flash, leaving nothing but artful tidiness. Available at Mooi Living Group www.mooi.hk Valcucine Logica System Mooi Living Group www.mooi.hk

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inspired living

peerless baccarat
Wine has never tasted better
Baccarats new Chteau Collection features an extraordinary universal wine glass, made to enhance the experience of any wine, red or white. Resembling a sleeping tulip bloom, the glasss broadly concave base, inwardly angled sides and vertical chimney were designed by master sommelier and wine authority Bruno Quenioux to draw out subtleties, to coax from each wine the very best that it has to offer. The glass expresses the complexity of the wines terroir and its aromas, says renowned sommelier Philippe Faure-Brac. And the shape of the glass is wonderful on your lips. Though it cant make bad wine taste great, Baccarats inspired new wine glass can make great wine taste even better. Bruno Quenioux
Photograph courtesy of Baccarat

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inspired living

retro modern
Retro forms and colors have been enjoying a renaissance in the design world. Among luxury kitchen designers, Leicht is leading the way, combining retro colors with modern designs to create kitchens of timeless beauty and style. This year, the German company has introduced three new colors which hark back to the fifties, sixties and seventies: petrol (an energizing blue), saffron (a warm, matt orange) and curcuma (a serene mustard hue, pictured here). Long known for s perior quality, clean forms and u utting-edge design, Leicht uses carefulc ly o sidered splashes of these special, c n the true heart of any home. welcoming colors to turn a kitchen into

Leichts timeless kitchens combine modern aesthetics and retro styling

Leicht Leicht 50 70 60 Leicht

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Photographs courtesy of Leicht

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tasting news

Peak Caf Bar

CM

TIS THE SEASoN

As temperatures begin to dip and the winter holidays approach, there is one drink that captures the spirit of the season better than any other: mulled wine. Beginning in November, the Peak Caf Bar in Soho will be serving its delicious rendition of this classic holiday beverage. Especially popular in northern Europe, mulled wine is called Glwhein in Germany and glgg , glgg or glgi in the Nordic countries. In England, the drinks status as an essential holiday tradition was helped along by the drinks appearance in Charles Dickens famous tale, A Christmas Carol. The Peak Caf Bars version is prepared with an aromatic blend of red wine, brandy, fruit, cinnamon and cloves. Served warm, it is a spicy, festive, heartcheering drink. If the holidays were a liquid, they would be mulled wine drink and be merry!
Peak Caf Bar
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(mulled wine) Soho Peak Caf Bar Glwhein glggglgg glgi , , , , -

/dining/peakcafebar

The taste of the holidays

9-13 Shelley Street, Soho, Central, Hong Kong 9-13 Bars and Lounges 11:00 - 2:00 Mon Fri; 9:00 - 2:00 Sat; 9:00 00:00 Sun & PH HKD 100-300 A Smart Causal q +852 2140 6877

G/F,

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Photographs courtesy of Peak Caf Bar

YEArS of ExpErIENCE, MoMENTS of DElIGHT

Very few chefs master the art of Japanese kaiseki . Mizumis Chef Hiroshi Kagata is one of them. Since becoming the new Chef de Cuisine at Wynn Macaus signature Japanese restaurant earlier this year, Chef Hiro has been preparing a monthly kaiseki menu. Kaiseki courses are made up of small, artfully presented dishes that complement each other to produce a well-balanced harmony of taste, says Chef Hiro. The dishes, always seasonal, are masterfully crafted to balance taste, texture and presentation. Chef Hiro has nearly three decades of experience in the kitchen, including a stint at Kyotos 300-year-old Gion Toriimoto Restaurant, where laborintensive old-world techniques are still standard. The Kyoto style, says Chef Hiro, is traditional and simple, and focuses on optimizing flavor and creating an elegant experience. I enjoy working with Kyoto-style light sauces and Japanese herbs such as yuzu, kinome, oba, myoga, wasabi, sudachi and others, he says. Each ingredient has a wonderfully seasonal quality and flavor. In addition to the kaiseki, there are many other delicious reasons to plan a meal at Mizumi: the red and amazingly tender kinki fish, flown in fresh from Japan twice weekly; Chef Hiros grilled lobster served with sea urchin sauce; extraordinary sushi and fresh sashimi; teppanyaki; and authentic robatayaki. It takes years to master traditional
Grilled Australian lobster with sea urchin sauce Mizumi at Wynn Macau

Mizumi
Macau, Rua Cidade de Sintra, NAPE 5 Japanese +853 8986 3663 q 17:3023:30 WedMon MOP 1,250 +10% service charge A Casual Elegant
/dining/mizumi
Wynn

Japanese cooking techniques years of experience that Chef Hiro translates into moments of delight and pleasure for his customers at Mizumi.

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sponsored feature

Inagikus tempura sets the standard.

heaven-sent tempura
If you want to know how good tempura can really be, you go to Inagiku
After tAking your first bite of Inagikus crispy shrimp tempura, all conversation at the table fades to white noise. Close your eyes, lean back in your chair and let the ethereally light morsels take over your consciousness. The tempura is so good, so perfectly crisp and flavorful, you may need to pinch yourself to be certain youre awake its as if youre having an incredibly vivid food dream. Not all tempura makes you feel like youre dreaming. There are many ways to go wrong with tempura it can be excessively oily, overcooked, too chewy, limp, soggy and bland. At some places, the tempura features all these unfortunate qualities simultaneously, scaring some first-timers away from the dish forever. If you want to know how good tempura can really be, you go to Inagiku. Their tempura sets the standard. The first Inagiku restaurant opened in 1866 as a small tempura caf in Asakusa, Japan. In the 1970s, Inagiku made its debut on the international food scene with a restaurant in New Yorks Waldorf Astoria Hotel.
november 2012

Chef Lee Ging Wa Weng

1866 1970 (WaldorfAstoria) (StarWorld Hotel) ( )

november 2012
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sponsored feature

Over the years, branches have opened up all over the world, in Los Angeles, Singapore, Manila, Shanghai, Beijing, Guangzhou, Bali, Hong Kong and Macau. At StarWorld Hotel, Inagiku Chef de Cuisine Lee Ging Wa Weng is the expert tempura maker. Born and raised in Hong Kong, Weng was a youngster when he developed a fascination with Japanese cuisine. As an apprentice, he began by washing rice and cutting vegetables, and then worked his way through every step of training to become a Japanese chef. He has been cooking for 27 years, and its clear that he still has the same dedication, drive and attention to detail for which Japanese chefs are famous. I learned all the basics from a Japanese

Inagiku at StarWorld Hotel

chef, says Chef Weng. My skills are truly Japanese. The secret to Inagikus famous tempura, says Weng, lies in the oil. At Inagiku, rather than using plain canola oil, they use supreme grade Nagano white sesame oil, refined by a traditional process of pressing and filtering called tamashibori. The batter,

sake pairing
Paired with Chef Wengs Sashimi Platter
Otokoyama Jumai Daiginjo

Nothing goes into this magnificent sake from Hokkaidos Otokoyama (Mans Mountain) brewery but pure well water, polished rice, and koji, the alchemical mold that ferments the rice and makes sake possible. The resulting elixir presents a seductive nose, runs like liquid velvet on the tongue and delivers a harmonious medley of rice, sweet potato and melon flavors. No distilled alcohol is added. A little added alcohol isnt necessarily a bad thing in very fine sakes, it functions like the alcohol in perfumes, helping to set free the complex aromas of the liquid. Nevertheless, there is something profoundly satisfying about the purity of this sake. The clean taste and crisp finish are perfect with sashimi. Dishes with stronger flavors might overpower the subtle effects, but, really, theres never a wrong time to drink something this good. , , , , , , , , , , ,

made from cold water and wheat flour, is mixed with chopsticks for only a few seconds, keeping it light and fluffy. Vegetables and seafood are dipped in the batter, giving them a thin, almost transparent coating, before being dropped, one at a time, into the hot oil, which must be kept at exactly 350 F. The frying must be precisely timed to avoid the limp blandness that results from undercooking and the loss of flavor and texture that comes with overcooking. Its a delicate process that demands meticulous attention to detail. Dip the best ingredients in carefully prepared batter, fry them in top-quality oil at just the right temperature, for exactly the right amount of time, and the result is crisp, golden, heaven-sent tempura. Weng explains that the first rule for eating tempura is to enjoy it while its piping hot. The second rule is to avoid the dashi-mirin-soy dipping sauce which can make the batter soft and mushy. Instead, stick solely to freshly squeezed lemon juice and salt flakes, which help the true flavors of the seafood and vegetables to shine. Following his advice, you dip each piece into the lemon juice and sprinkle it with salt. Each bite is warm and crackly beneath the exterior of light-as-air batter, the vegetables are vibrant and crunchy, the shrimp plump, sweet, and juicy. Tempura fanatics say you havent had the real thing until youve eaten at Inagiku. After youve tried Chef Wengs mouthwatering offerings, its likely that youll agree there is no substitute.

Handmade tofu, garnished with ginger, pine needles and a chrysanthemum

27 tamashibori ( )

350 ( 180 )

Inagiku
Japanese 5/F, StarWorld Hotel Macau Avenida da Amizade +853 8290 8668 q 12:0014:30, 18:0023:00 Casual Chic A
5

/dining/inagiku

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Seafood really takeS center stage in

center stage
Ambers Richard Ekkebus keeps the spotlight on his ingredients

Chef Ekkebus roasts Wagyu beef over a wood fire and serves it with seasonal greens and Cvennes onions prepared eight different ways. Ekkebus Cvennes

my kitchen, says Amber Culinary Director Richard Ekkebus. I was born and raised by the sea, fishing and cooking my catch immediately, so the notion of exceptionally fresh ingredients is wired into my hard drive. Using only the finest and freshest ingredients is a benchmark that Richard has set for himself and his team at Amber, the signature restaurant at the Landmark Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Hong Kong. Over time I have become much more product-driven, says Richard. I think when you have access to exceptional ingredients you have an obligation to protect the genius of these ingredients, and that is what we are doing on a daily basis. Technique is important as well, but its there as a support. Its never to show off or to impress diners with fancy and complicated cooking skills. Never compromising on quality has paid off for Amber, which opened seven years ago and has since earned two Michelin stars and become one of Asias most celebrated finedining destinations. People come from all over to indulge in Richards signature dishes, like his Hokkaido sea urchin in lobster jelly with cauliflower, caviar and crispy seaweed waffles. The combination of land and sea is something Richard says has always intrigued him about Chinese cuisine, and the two meet seamlessly in this dish. The cauliflower is earthy and sweet and has a complex texture and flavor alongside the sea urchin. The seaweed crackers add a crispy element that contrasts with the creaminess of the dish, he says. I think every good dish should have a crispy element. Dutch-born, trained in France, Richard

Amber Richard Ekkebus Richard Amber Richard : , , : , , , Amber , , , , Richard : , , Richard , , , : , , , Richard , : , ,

You have an obligation to protect the genius of your ingredients.

now takes advantage of Hong Kongs crossroads location to source the most exceptional fresh ingredients from the region. We work with a lot of Japanese ingredients but our techniques and flavor profile are definitely 100 percent French. Living and working in this cultural crossroads has inspired Richard to get back to his roots, where a childhood spent in his grandparents restaurant prepared him for a life in the kitchen. Hong Kong food is very focused. Its all about the essence of the dish, whether that is taste-driven or texturally-driven. So I think my food has become much more focused since Ive been here. Now I look at how I can enhance the flavor of what Im cooking, using more traditional methods instead of what is fashionable. I love to roast over a wood fire it brings an element of extreme heat and an intense smoky flavor, which can really change the dynamics of a dish. A perfect example is his Wagyu beef from Japan, cooked over low heat so the richly marbled fat is not lost, and then caramelized over the open wood fire. When you braise and roast you have two totally different textures and I like that playfulness in a dish, Richard says. He serves the meltingly tender meat with delicately flavored sweet Cvennes onions from France, prepared eight different ways. Richard believes that perseverance and consistency are the qualities that make a restaurant successful. You have to hold on to your principles and stay loyal to what you feel the restaurant is known for. But he doesnt let that pressure weigh him down. I create my own pressure. Its not a guide or a list that motivates me. The drive within myself is the only thing I need to reckon with every day. Learn more about San Pellegrino at www.jebsenfinewines.com.

Richard Cvennes Richard Richard ,

Amber Culinary Director Richard Ekkebus

Amber
5
7/F

/dining/amber

;:cvennes, ,Cvennes

French Contemporary The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queens Road, Central, Hong Kong 15 7 Lunch: 12:0014:30 Mon-Fri, 12:0014:00 Sat-Sun & PH, Dinner: 18:3022:30 Mon-Sun & PH HKD 500+ A Smart Casual q +852 2132 0066

Upper left: Hokkaido sea urchin in lobster jelly, topped with caviar and edible gold flakes; lower left: the Cvennes onions served with the Wagyu beef are variously pickled in vinegar, cooked in bread dough, mixed in marmalade with capers, and doused with grain mustard.

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The exalTed alba madonna

For many chefs and diners, the autumn appearance of the white truffle, or Alba Madonna, is the highest of high points on the culinary calendar
The worlds most seductive ingredient is a lumpy subterranean fungus. In appearance homely at best, the white truffle doesnt win any beauty pageants. But it does inspire passion, and devotion. What the white truffle lacks in looks it makes up for with characterwith delicate, unforgettable flavor, and a fragrance that is just about as impossible to describe as it is to resist. Struggling to characterize the extraordinary aroma of the white truffle, people sometimes resort to words that sound more like warnings than endorsements: Intense. Earthy, garlicky. Pungent. Arrogant. Like cabbage on steroids. Chef Umberto Bombana of 8 Otto e Mezzo Bombana tells a story about a dishwasher he worked with in Italy who, after becoming anxious about a dangerous gas leak in the kitchen, was prepared to evacuate the restaurantbut no, that wasnt necessary, he was just smelling the truffles. Its a very strong, powerful smell, says Olivier Elzer, Chef de Cuisine Excutif of LAtelier de Jol Robuchon. But the taste is different from the smell. The taste for me is smoother, very unique. I think sometimes the smell can be a little bit overpowering but the taste actually makes the balance. A first sniff makes some people tentative. But after theyve had a truffle experience, after theyve surrendered, people begin to experience that strong scent as a kind of siren call. And then they start expressing their ardency with adjectives like these: Mouthwatering. Beguiling. Sublime. Such is the potency of the white truffle that just a few flakes shaved onto a simple dish of egg or buttered pasta is enough to transform it into a masterpiece of aroma and flavor. Because cooking diminishes the aroma, chefs usually prefer to shave the raw truffle directly onto a dish. With a truffle dish, says Chef Bombana, the goal is to create a good platform for the truffle to dominate and exalt itself. We cant play too much with the white truffle, says Guillaume Gaillot, Chef de Cuisine of The Tasting Room. To get the best of it, stay simple. Chef Elzer agrees: The most important thing is to respect the truffles. The best white truffles come from the forests of Piedmont, near the town of Alba in northern Italy, where the red soil and rainy summers make for perfect growing conditions. In August, the truffles begin growing underground, among the roots of various hardwood trees. When they are ripe, at some point from October to December, trained dogs can smell them under the soil. Chemists and cultivators have tried, but so far nobody has been able to duplicate the magic of the wild white Alba truffles. Limited availability and high demand have made them one of the worlds most expensive ingredients. This season, a kilogram of white truffles is selling for around HKD 45,000. No other seasonal ingredient is as highly anticipated. There is nothing else like truffles, says Chef Bombana. With each truffle season, you know another year has passed.

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AlbA MAdonnA

8 Otto e Mezzo Bombana Umberto Bombana LAtelier de Jol Robuchon Olivier Elzer

Bombana The Tasting Room Guillaume Gaillot Elzer Alba Piedmont Alba Madonna Bombana

Chef Umberto Bombanas Egg Al Piatto with burrata, mushroom, and white truffle Umberto Bombana Egg Al Piatto burrata

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The Alba white truffle rare, fragrant, coveted, loved, and inimitable.

I always recommend to my team to use two or three truffles. Its nice to start shaving with one and then pick another one. Because all the truffles taste a little bit different. This one can be stronger than that one. So I think its interesting to give you a little taste of each.
,

Olivier Elzer, Chef de Cuisine Excutif of LAtelier de Jol Robuchon Alba white truffle on ratte potato and foie gras rolls salad, garnished with pink and black radishes and edible flowers Alba

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You have to be creative while respecting the simplicity. Its not I put this, I put that ... oh Im a genius. You have to truly understand the product and you have to respect the product. Because I think the truffle is the real actor. You cannot kill the ingredient. To be creative, you have to do it in a way that leaves the truffle aroma. Dont cover the aroma. And usually simple is the best.

Chef Umberto Bombana of Hong Kongs 8 Otto e Mezzo Bombana Porcini mushroom risotto with aromatic Piedmont cheese, parsley, and white truffle PorciniPiedmont

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If you cook the white truffle, all the flavor will disappear. The best for the white really is to add it last minute on top of your dish. You can get creative with the ingredients underneath and with the seasonings and the sauce.
,,

Guillaume Gaillot, Chef de Cuisine of The Tasting Room Ravioli of soumaintrain cheese and hazelnut with artichoke velout sauce and shimeji mushrooms, topped with artichoke chips and white truffle Soumaintrain,

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tasting notes

fantastic northern flavors

The Nordic cuisine at FINDS makes for one of Hong Kongs most interesting menus
all chefs remember the dish that stopped them in their tracks and made them fall in love with food. For Jaakko Sorsa, Executive Chef at FINDS in Hong Kong, it was his Grandmother Idas meatballs. Her meatballs tasted so much better than everyone elses. I was a very picky eater but her dishes I adored. Idas meatball recipe has now been incorporated into Chef Jaakkos menu at his restaurant FINDS in Tsim Sha Tsuis Luxe Manor. Jaakko is Finnish, and the name of

SalmonT six T I N G 40 | A S ways

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tasting notes

tasting notes Wine Pairing LINIE AquAvIT

Norwegian Linie aquavit is a strong, dry liquor, distilled from fermented potatoes and flavored with caraway, aniseed and other herbs. Linie is the Norwegian word for line and this aquavit is famously aged on ships that travel from Europe to Australia and back, twice crossing the equatorial line. Stored in oak casks previously used for sherry, the aquavit follows the motion of the waves, and, over time, is imbued with a warm golden color and the mellow flavors of oak and sherry. At FINDS, the aquavit is served in chilled cups carved from Finnish stone. It pairs perfectly with Chef Jaakkos smoked salmon. (Linie) FINDS

People in Hong Kong are very adventurous when it comes to food.

its a surprisingly popular dish on the menu. People in Hong Kong are very adventurous when it comes to food, he says. Fresh root vegetables are among Jaakkos favorite ingredients. I love artichokes, he says. They have such a sweet, deep richness that adds a real earthiness to a dish. He puts his into a creamy risotto and serves it with roasted gold root and seared scallops with hazelnut butter. The scallops, along with all the seafood on the menu, have been sustainably sourced. In 2011, FINDS became the first Western-cuisine restaurant in Hong Kong to join the WWFs Ocean-Friendly Menu Program. Were small but loud protectors of the sea, Jaakko says proudly. We fully support ethical sourcing practices and we use nothing on the WWFs red list. To make dessert, Jaakko upends a large dish of yellow berries into a pot with sugar and water. Buckthorn berries, he says. They grow wild on the islands in Finland. Full of sea minerals and very good for you. Strong, tart flavor. But it takes skill to cook with them. Jaakko transforms the berries into gelatinous little yellow cubes with an acidic bite. They make a perfect accompaniment to his sweet, white chocolate parfait. Jaakkos fantastic Nordic flavors come straight at you, clean and clear. No matter what the dish is, you always feel he is helping you discover something basic and true about each ingredient. Eating his food is to be transported away from subtropical Hong Kong to a northern land of pine forests and cold water lakes, of salmon and root vegetables and buckthorn berries. Its a very satisfying trip to take.

Seared scallops served with artichoke risotto, roasted gold root, and rocket puree

the restaurant is an acronym that honors the Scandinavian origins of the foodFinland, Iceland, Norway, Denmark, Sweden. Heres a great dish to introduce you to Nordic tastes, says Jaakko. Salmon six ways. Salmon any way is a treat. Six ways all at once is joy on a plate. If you tend towards indecision, if the six tantalizing, intriguingly varied options make it hard to know where to start, be assured: you cant go wrong. Theres cold-smoked, a mousse, pickled, gravad lax, roe, and a piece seared with peppercorn and fennel. Each one is lovely and interesting in its own way, and to eat them all, one after the next, amounts to a kind of salmon seminar, a demonstration of all the different flavors and effects a talented chef can summon from a single ingredient. Cooking with salmon is like cooking

with tomatoes or potatoes, says Jaakko. Its such a versatile ingredient that you can use it for practically anything. And he does: there are 18 different salmon dishes on Jaakkos menu. At home, everything follows the seasons. We gather and prepare natural products from the land. My childhood summers were spent on my grandmothers island in the Lakelandfishing, curing and smoking the fish, and picking mushrooms from the forest. By keeping a careful eye on what nature has to offer, cooking seasonally, and updating age-old Nordic dishes, Jaakko has created one of the most interesting menus in Hong Kong. Great Nordic flavors rule here: North Sea mussels, Danish herring, Finn fries, Greenland shrimpeven smoked reindeer from Lapland. Jaakko says

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chef PrOfile

JAAKKo SorSA
ExEcutivE chEf at fiNDS, hoNg KoNg

tasting notes

If we peeked in your home refrigerator, what would we find? My mustard collectionI have about fifteen mustards from all around the world. My home fridge is actually an old champagne fridge from FINDS. I dont have a freezer at home, I just buy things fresh and use everything right away. What are the top three things you cant work without in the kitchen? A smoking bin. A 100-liter braising steam pot to prepare stocks. And a gravad lax knife. If you competed in Iron Chef, which theme ingredient competition would you never lose? Salmon. What qualities do you need to become a good chef? You must never take shortcuts. Be patient, try again and again, and always improve yourself. Keep yourself challenged and keep learning. What was your worst kitchen disaster? It happened when I was the head chef at a big seafood restaurant at the Fairmont in Bermuda. The hotel was full, but a hurricane kept the planes full of ingredients from arriving from the US. Its amazing what you can come up with when you have to. Tell us about the most interesting meal youve ever cooked. For whom and where? In February 2011, I was invited to prepare a modern Finnish dinner for Princess Takamado in Tokyo. I chose local ingredients, meat and vegetables and seafood from the Tsujiki fishmarket, and prepared it all the Nordic way, like amaebi shrimps cold-smoked with Finnish wood. How would you describe your cooking philosophy? Clean and honest flavors.

15 fiNDS , 100 What was your best culinary experience? New ones happen all the time. Before coming to Asia, my best experience was probably my first visit to Alain Ducasses Louis XV in Monaco. But then, a few years ago, I discovered Yunnan cuisine for the first time and that was another great experience. What is your opinion of organic products? Nowadays organic food is sold in designer malls in fancy packaging. It has become the food of the elite. Its too expensive. It should be a human right to enjoy clean food, just like it used to be a few decades ago, when most food was organic. How were you inspired to become a chef? While watching my grandmother cook, I started to wonder: Why does her food taste so much better than other peoples food? I started to pay attention to small techniques, like how she built the base for stews and soups. Its all about attention to details and taking care of the ingredientsthats what elevates good cooking to great cooking. 2011 2 (alain Ducasse) (Louis xv)

Small cubes of tart buckthorn berry jelly accent blocks of creamy white chocolate parfait.

FINDS (Jaakko Sorsa) FINDS (Tsim Sha Tsuis Luxe Manor) FINDS (Finland) (Iceland) (Norway) (Denmark) (Sweden)

FINDS 18 FINDS

( ) FINDS 2011 (WWF)

Finds
Nordic The Luxe Manor, 39 Kimberley Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong 39 1 +852 2522 9318 q MonThurs 18:3000:00 FriSat 18:3002:00; Sun 18:3023:00 HKD 300-500 A Casual Chic
1/F

/dining/fiNDS

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A praline-feathered Navi Warrior, Chocolate Kong and other edible wonders

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ts all edible every last bit, every ear, every finger, feather, flipper and spear. These sculptures are made of chocolate lots of chocolate and pralines and margarine and cocoa butter, along with lots of expertise, ingenuity and hard work. Pastry teams spend weeks planning and designing. Days tempering, molding, and sculpting. Hours revising and repairing. The resulting showpieces are guaranteed to draw gasps of wonder and admiration. Does anyone actually get to eat these masterpieces? Sometimes maybe, says Regis Monges, executive pastry chef of the Grand Hyatt Macau and a judge at the recent Macau 6th

Chapter Pastry Competition. Realistically, no one really buys a chocolate showpiece. Theyre extremely hard to make and to transport. Chocolate showpieces are the pastry worlds equivalent of the audacious designs seen on haute couture fashion runways. Just as elements of high fashion designs trickle down into ready-to-wear garments, pastry showpiece designs also influence the work done in cake shops and confectionary stores. Any pastry competition is an opportunity to bring techniques to the next level. We dont make showpieces for the commercial aspect, says Regis. We grow and the profession grows.

1 2 3 4
Regis Monges Regis Regis :

1 3

Desire () by Sands Macao Pastry Sous Chef Poon Ka Tung () Vogue () by Wynn Macaus Andrew Tan Chu Hap ()

2 4

Bathing () by City of Dreams Sous Chef Lai Chu () Instinct and Intuition ) by Grand Hyatt Macaus Demi Chef Allan V. Salve (The title page lizard is part of this same showpiece. / )

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African Avatar () by Galaxy Macaus Jaime Punzalan

Born to Be Wild () by IFTs Pastry Artisan Ronald Grindulo Gonzales

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Prayer () by The Venetian Macaos Sun Qing Ye ()

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World Class

seductive deconstruction
China Rouge is one of the sexiest bars in Asia

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World Class

sponsored feature cocktails

MolECulAr STrAwbErry DAIquIrI

by Roy Kong, China Rouge Bar Manager
Roy
Zacapa Rum Cointreau Gomme Syrup Lime Strawberry Ice

Pour rum, Cointreau and Gomme syrup into a shaker with ice. Shake well and pour into a Martini glass. Prepare the lime juice foam by whisking with an electric blender. Place the foam on top of the cocktail in the Martini glass. Prepare the strawberry caviar. Serve the caviar with a spoon, apart from the cocktail. Enjoy. !
The dCor at China Rouge harks back to 1930s Shanghai, when art deco was all the rage and the sensually decadent pastimes of choice ranged through all the happy human vices in the book. But the mood at China Rouge isnt nostalgic for sexy times gone by: those Paris-of-the-Orient elements have been cleverly fused with contemporary art and polished postmodern touches. China Rouge puts on its own new kind of sexy. Bar Manager Roy Kong has created a cocktail that perfectly symbolizes China Rouges postmodern sexiness: the molecular strawberry daiquiri. All the sweet-sour elements of a classic daiquiri are present, but theyve been deconstructed: the rum is liquid; the lime has been turned to foam; and the sweet element appears in the form of strawberry caviar. You mix the daiquiri in your mouth, says Roy. And thats a sexy thing to do.

1930 Roy Roy

China Rouge Bar Manager Roy Kong Roy

Zacapa is the rum of World Class, the global competition which celebrates the skill and style of the worlds best bartenders. Follow all the action at facebook.com/WorldClassHK.

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sponsored restaurant listings

MACAu Hotel okura Macau

Hotel Okura Macau, Galaxy Macau , COTAI, Macau www.hotelokuramacau.com

the crystal Piano

28/F +853 8883 5109 q 18:0002:00 Closed Wed MOP 60 and up A Smart Casual H www.hotelokuramacau.com
5 Bar & Lounge

Yamazato

Avenida da Amizade www.starworldmacau.com

StarWorld Hotel Macau

lax cafe
2/F q +853 8883 5125 16:0024:00 TuesSun MOP 60 and up A Smart Casual H www.hotelokuramacau.com
5 Sake Bar

Sakazuki Sake Bar

Inagiku

Scrumptious tempura made with supreme-grade sesame oil and a sashimi platter featuring prime toro.
5/F q +853 8290 8668 12:0014:30, 18:0023:00 A Casual Chic H www.macau.com/ dining/inagiku
5 Japanese

Rua De Braganca No. 120. L J. Y RC EDIF. Supreme Flower City, Taipa +853 2884 3093 q 10:00- 22:00 MOP 50+ A Casual

5 Western Cuisine

Poker caf

A unique poker-themed restaurant in Macau.

Avenida de Almeida Ribeiro, Avenida de Cinco de Outubro No. 147 147 +853 28924370 q 11:00-04:00 MOP 30 to 80 A Casual
5 International

Yamazato

2/F q +853 8883 5127 12:0022:30 TuesSun MOP 300 and up A Casual Chic H www.hotelokuramacau.com

5 Japanese/Kaiseki

Mortons the Steakhouse

Enjoy USDA prime-aged steaks, fresh seafood and decadent desserts. USDA
5 Western

the tasting room

Whisky Bar terrace restaurant

2/F q +853 8883 5122 & 8883 5126 07:0024:00 MOP 100 and up A Resort Casual H www.hotelokuramacau.com
5 International

Live music, top quality drinks, free snacks, great views, and a cigar room.
16/F q +853 8290 8698 17:0002:00 Mon-Thu & Sun 17:0003:00 Fri-Sat A Casual Chic
5 Bar

Shop 1016 The Venetian Macao-ResortHotel, Estrada da Baa de N. Senhora da Esperana, s/n q +853 8117 5000 Bar: 15:0000:00 MonSat & 15:0023:00 Sun, Dining room: 17:0023:00 MonSun Over MOP 300 A Casual Chic H www.mortons.com/macau

Excellent contemporary European cuisine by Chef Guillaume Gaillot: every delicious ingredient on the plate has a sense of purpose. Guillaume Gaillot
3/F, Crown Towers Estrada do Istmo +853 8868 6681 q 12:0015:00 SunSat, 18:00 23:00 SunSat MOP 200 to 300 A Casual Chic
5 European Contemporary

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sponsored restaurant listings

HoNG KoNG
carpaccio Paste Pizza Vino
Shop 307, 3rd Floor, iSQUARE, 63 Nathan Road 63 iSQUARE 3 307 5 Italian q +852 2328 5202 10:0024:00 HKD 200-400 A Casual Shop 202 Level 2 Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 88 2 202 5 Cafe Bar q +852 2536 0173 10:0010:00 SunWed 10:0000:00 ThurSat HKD 200 A Smart Casual

cest la B Pacific Place

Spasso Italian Bar and restaurant

Shop 403, Level 4, Ocean Centre, Harbour City 17 4 403 5 Italian q +852 2730 8027 12:0023:30 HKD 300-500 A Casual

thai orchids caf & Bar

Shop 9, 11/F, Enterprise Square Five, 38 Wang Chiu Rd 38 MegaBox 11 9 5 Thai q +852 3543 5633 12:0023:00 HKD 40-100 A Causal

Goccia

Starz Wine Bar

divino Patio

Shop 11, 1/F, Causeway Centre, No. 28 Harbour Road 28 (Brim 28)1 11 5 Italian q +852 2877 3552 11:3024:00 HKD 250-500 A Smart Casual

G/F & 1/F, 2, 73 Wyndham St. 73 1 5 Bar q +852 2167 8181 Mon-Fri: 12:00 till late; Sat & Sun: 18:00 till late HKD 100-300 A Casual

latelier de Jol robuchon

G/F, UA Cinema, Citygate Outlets, 20 Tat Tung Road, Tung Chung, Lantau 20 UA 5 Western q +852 2109 0612 11:0023:00 HKD 40-100 A Casual

Flutes champagne and cocktail Bar

27 Elgin Street 27 5 Bar q +852 2810 0005 17:0002:00 HKD 50-150 A Casual

divino Wine Bar & restaurant

73 Wyndham Street 73 5 Italian q +852 2167 8883 Mon-Sat: 12:00 till late Sun: 18:00 till late HKD 150-300 A Casual

Shop 401, 4/F The Landmark, Central 1216 4 401 5 French Contemporary q +852 2166 9000 07:3010:00, 12:0014:30, 18:3022:30 HKD 500+ A Smart Casual

Studio city Bar & caf

8 1/2 otto e Mezzo Bombana

Shop No.12, L11/F, Enterprise Square, 38 Wang Chiu Road 38 MegaBox 11 12 5 American q +852 3543 5638 12:0023:00 HKD 100-150 A Casual

202 Alexandra House, 18 Chater Road Rd., Central 517 2 202 5 Italian q +852 2537 8859 Lunch: 12:0014:30 Mon-Sat Dinner: 18:3022:30 Mon-Sat HKD 500+ A Smart Casual

2 ()Fat Siu Lau 2

Century old ClassiC

2 () Fat Siu Lau 2
Avn. Dr. Sun Yat-Sen, Edf. Vista Magnifica Court, Macau (Opposite of Kun Ian Statue) () Tel: (853) 2872 2922

he history of this famous restaurant spans over four generations and more than a century. Fat Siu Lau opened its first branch in 2006, Fat Siu Lau 2 is situated in the bar street area, next to MGM Grand, with its bright red unique color scheme and huge windows providing enchanting views of the nearby lake. Fat Siu Lau 3, on the other hand, is located in Taipa village near Galaxy Macau with a green European motif. It can cater for private parties up to 100 persons. Menu highlights include perennial favorites like roast pigeon (prepared to a 105-year-old secret recipe), curry crab, African chicken and grilled prawns.

Fat Siu Lau 2

2 ()

Curry Crab

Other branches
Fat Siu Lau Rua da Felicidade No.64, Macau 64 Tel: (853) 2857 3580 3 Fat Siu Lau 3 Rua Do Regedor 181-185 R/C, Taipa 181-185 Tel: (853) 2882 5257

2006 2 3 100 K I T C H E N | n o v e m b e r 2 0 1 2 | TASTING

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Roast pigeon

tK" Where to Find tK

tasting kitchen is available at more than 100 newsstands and bookshops across the region, and at all of the following fine resorts, hotels and restaurants.

MACAu
Altira Macau Banyan Tree Macau COD, Crown Tower COD, Grand Hyatt COD, Hard Rock Hotel Galaxy Macau Grand Emperor Hotel Grand Lapa Grand Lisboa Grand Waldo Hotel Lisboa Hotel Okura Macau Hotel San Tiago L'Arc Lan Kwai Fong Landmark Mandarin Oriental MGM Macau Pousada de Mong-Ha, IFT Rocks Hotel Sofitel StarWorld Hotel Waldo Hotel Westin Resort Macau Wynn Macau

HotelS

Aurora Aux Beaux Arts Bambu Beijing Kitchen Belcano Belon Bene Caf Bela Vista Caf Deco Caf Lan City Caf, COD Conrad Lobby Lounge Copa Steakhouse Edo Restaurant Feast Festiva Fogosamba Fortune Inn Restaurant Golden Court Gosto Grand Emperor Court Hard Rock Caf Il Teatro Imperial Court Inagiku Jade Garden Kam Lai Heen Kings of Kings Kira L'Arc Lounge La Paloma Lan Laurel Lei Garden Madeira Portuguese Majestic Robatayaki Mandarin Oriental Lobby McSorley's Mezza 9 MGM Patisserie MGM Mistral MJ Caf Monsoon Morton's Steakhouse Myung Ga Korean Restaurant Naam Thai Nagomi Old Shanghai

Hotel reStauraNtS

Osgatos Pak Lok Palms Patisserie Petrus Ping Pink Grill Rain Restaurant Rossio Royal Orchid Russian Room Saffron Shanghainese 456 Spice Garden Square 8 Temptations Tenmasa Terrace Terrazza The Chinese Restaurant The Hotness The Royal Kitchen The Tasting Room Toei Delights Treasure Palace Tsui Wah Varanda Vergnano Italian Vida Rica Restaurant Windows Restaurant Xin Yamazato Ying Zi Yat Heen

O Porto Interior Restaurante Old Taipa Tavern Pizzeria Toscana Portal Wine Bar Restaurant Litoral Restaurante Escada Restaurante Espaco Lisboa Restaurante Fernando Talay Thai Restaurant The Corner's The Roadhouse

Cuisine Cuisine (IFC) Cuisine Cuisine at the Mira Da Ping Huo Divino Patio Divino Wine Bar & Restaurant Double Happiness Caf Dynasty (Wan Chai) Feast Felix Fish Bar & Grill Flutes Champagne and Cocktail bar Fook Lam Moon (Wan Chai) Forum Restaurant Fu Ho Restaurant (Tsim Sha Tsui) Gaddi's Gaylord Indian Restaurant Gingko house Goccia Restorante Bar Terrace Hard Rock Caf Hoi King Heen Hyde Inn Side Out Island Seafood & Oyster Bar Island Tang Isola Jashan Celebrating Indian Cuisine Kudos LAtelier de Jol Robuchon Lei Garden (IFC) Lung King Heen Mask of Si Chuen Ming Court mini dans la ville Mirror Nagahama No. 1 Ramen No.1 Nicholini's One-Thirtyone Petrus Pierre Portobello Prime Cellar Wine Tasting Room Sahara Mezz Bar Sashay caf and wine bar
SCIROCCO FINDS

Hotel BarS & louNGeS

Caesars Golf French Wine Institute La Baie du Noble La Cite Lake View Tower Macau Golf & Country Club Macau International Airport lounge Macau Jockey Club Manhattan Millennium Court Nova City Ocean Garden clubhouse One Central Clubhouse Tenis Civil The Buckingham The Pacifica Garden The Praia The Residencia

cluBHouSeS

Bar Azul Cascades Florian Bar Macallan Whiskey Bar & Lounge Pearl Lounge R Bar Rendezvous Sakazuki Spectra Bar The Crystal Piano Vasco Vida Rica Bar Wave Whisky Bar Windor Lounge

Caf Ou Mun Cuppa Coffee Illy Coffee Pacific Coffee - Galaxy, COD, SCC & The Residencia Singing Bean coffee Starbucks - 5
CUPPACOFFEE

coFFee SHoPS

360 Caf A Lorcha A Petisqueira Akasaka Caf Albergue 1601 Andrew's Caf - University of Macau Antica Trattoria Antonio Restaurant Banza Caf Litoral Camoes Restaurant Clube Militar de Macau Cozinha Pinocchio Taipa Fat Siu Lau Henri's Galley Hero Chinese Restaurant La Bonne Heure La Cucina Lord Stow's Bakery - Coloane Lua Azul Macau Dynasty Caf Men Mung Seafood Miramar Restaurant

reStauraNtS

Altira Spa Banyan Tree - Spa Bodhi Spa Crown - The Spa Four Season - Spa Grand Lapa Spa Isala Spa Malo Clinic Spa Mandarin Oriental - The Spa Rock Spa - Hard Rock Royal Thai Spa Shine Spa Six Senses Spa The Spa at Encore The Spa at Wynn

HealtH & SPa

HoNG KoNG
208 Duecento Otto Ah Yat Harbour View Restaurant Amber Angel's Share Bo Innovation Bourbon Caprice Carpaccio Pasta Pizza Vino Casa Lisboa Cpage Chilli Fagara Club @28

reStauraNtS

Sevva Shui Hu Ju Spasso Italian bar Spoon by Alain Ducasse Spring Moon Starz Wine Bar Studio City Bar & Caf Sugar (Bar.Deck.Lounge) Summer Palace Sushi Kuu T'ang Court Thai Orchids Caf & Bar The Press Room The Quarterdeck Hong Kong The Square Tim's Kitchen Wagyu Kaiseki Den Yan Toh Heen Yardbird Yat Tung Heen (Wan chai) ( ) Yorkshire Pudding

TK IN TrANSIT
Air Macau Avis Burgeon Rent a car Jet Asia Macau Jet Sky Shuttle Turbojet

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dessert

Chef Michele dell'Aquila of Altira Macau's Aurora gives white truffles a prominent role in his Tiramisu Biscotto con Tartufo Bianco, which playfully combines the contrasting flavors and textures of white truffle, soft biscotto, Italian meringue and chocolate sauce, chocolate sorbet, coffee Chantilly cream, and wafers and crumbles of coffee, chocolate and vanilla. AuroraMichele dell'AquilaBiscotto con Tartufo Bianco

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