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SAs OWN GARDENING AND LANDSCAPING MAGAZINE
SPRING 2011
GARDEN & OUTDOOR LIVING

Spring
into action
Planting & Repotting
Jon Lamb
Edited by
South Australian
Tomatoes you can trust Colourful spring bloomers

Official journal of the Nursery & Garden Industry and the Landscape Association of SA
Lock in the recent rains with Jeries

Why pay for water when you can make the most of the winter rains all ready in the ground? Use compost, soil and mulch to retain that soil moisture and cut your watering needs.
Jeffries new bagged product range, makes it as simple as 1, 2, 3 to add vital nutrients and stimulate plant growth while keeping those pesky weeds at bay. Perfect for the home garden enthusiast, Jeffries bagged compost, soil and mulch products are ideal for garden beds, pots and tubs alike. Utilise the recent rains and give your plants and vegetables the best chance to thrive. Visit www.jeffries.com.au for your local stockist.
NOW available in bags for your convenience
Organic Compost
Digging Jeffries Organic Compost into the topsoil will add vital nutrients and living micro-organisms. Every soil needs a regular top up of organic matter.
For stockists of Jeffries bagged products and more information phone 8368 3555 or visit www.jeffries.com.au Office hours Mon-Fri 7am to 5pm
Reg No 5125M
Printed on FSC certified paper
www.jeffries.com.au
GARDEN & OUTDOOR LIVING

Edition number 3
www.gardenandoutdoorliving.com
South Australian
SPRING 2011
FEATURES

Published by Jon Lamb Communications Pty Ltd, (JLC) 31 King St, Norwood, SA 5067 Official journal of Nursery & Garden Industry of SA Inc Landscape Association of SA Inc Editor Jon Lamb (08) 8362 5417 jlcom@chariot.net.au Publishing, sub-editing, layout Steve Swann (08) 8365 0596 steveswann@internode.on.net ADVERTISING HWR Media & Communications 109b Conyngham Street, Frewville, SA 5063 (08) 8379 9522 Fax (08) 8379 9735 www.hwrmedia.com.au sales@hwrmedia.com.au DISTRIBUTION Passing Out Distribution 0416 295 755 Landscape Association of SA (LASA) Adelaide Showground, Goodwood Rd, Wayville. PO Box 108, Goodwood SA 5034 Secretariat: Rob Martin (08) 8210 5229 www.landscapesa.com.au Nursery & Garden Industry of SA (NGISA) 505 Fullarton Rd, Netherby, SA 5062 CEO: Geoffrey Fuller (08) 8372 6822 www.ngisa.com.au Disclaimer Although all reasonable care is taken in preparing information contained in this publication, neither Jon Lamb Communications (JLC), NGISA or LASA, nor their officers, staff or suppliers involved in the editing and production of this magazine accept any liability resulting from the interpretation or use of the information set out in this document. Information contained in this document is subject to change without notice. The views and opinions expressed in this publication are those of the authors and do not necessarily represent those of the publishers or editor. No responsibility is accepted by JLC, NGISA or LASA for the accuracy of information contained in advertisements in SA Garden & Outdoor Living. Publication of an advertisement does not constitute endorsement by NGISA, LASA or JLC of any product or service, or warrant its suitability.
Tomatoes you can trust Performance with taste E ye-catching colour Great spring bloomers ready to go! Garden scents Advice to those who want to follow their nose
10

24
REGULAR COLUMNS
10 24 38
Our supporters
22 66
T he cutting edge Trevor Nottle monitors the latest garden issues T aste the seasons Chef Kane Pollard makes the most of spring
GOOD GARDENING 27 34 42
A fence full of fruit Espaliered fruit trees solve the space problem F ertilisers How to pick the best for the job O rganic gardening A great range of ready-made organic products
GUIDES

16 32 64 78
New plants New products Open Gardens Whats on Calendar of SA gardening events
Landscape Association of South Australia Inc.
Nursery & Garden Industry South Australia Inc
Cover: Ashgrove Iris Garden, Gumeracha. Dianne Michalks colourful garden will be open on November 5 & 6 as part of Open Gardens Australia. Open Gardens calendar on page 64. Copyright: Editorial material published in SA Garden & Outdoor Living is copyright and may not be reproduced in any form without written permission from the Publisher or Editor.
GARDEN & OUTDOOR LIVING / SPRING 2011 3
Boral Pavers & reTaINING Walls
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Complete your next outdoor project with Borals wide range of paving and retaining wall solutions. Available in an abundance of sizes, formats, colours and finishes, the possibilities are endless.
For more information visit www.boral.com.au/landscaping/01 or call 1300 134 002.
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Welcome to spring
During the next three months, nature is on your side. With the minimum of effort, you can sow vegetables, establish fruit trees, roll out instant lawn, re-pot your hanging baskets or plant out a range of ornamental shrubs. Why not pay a visit to your local garden centre? You will be surprised at the range of colourful spring plants they have in store. If you would like sound advice on suitable plants for your garden talk to an adviser at your local garden centre.
Photo: Tatiana Yakovleva | Dreamstime.com
Tomatoes you can trust!
6 GARDEN & OUTDOOR LIVING / SPRING 2011
Tomatoes
Performance with taste. That has to be every every tomato growers dream. Ask your local garden centre about the new premium grade high performers.
ipe red fruits with real tomato flavour on bushes that dont suddenly collapse because of the never-ending onslaught of pests and disease. This is the challenge that has been taken up by garden centre members of the Nursery and Garden Industry Association in South Australia. To achieve this, they are working closely with leading Australian plant breeding companies and SA based bedding plant growers to provide new tomato varieties selected specifically for home gardens that combine performance with taste. While not discounting the performance of traditional tomato favourites such as Mighty Red and Grosse Lisse, the aim is to help overcome some of the confusion confronting home gardeners when deciding what variety of tomato they will grow this season. This season a number of new premium grade high performing tomato varieties have been released. Apart from real tomato taste, they offer high yields over an extended period, while the bushes have greater resistance to disease and tolerance to heat. However, because each seed may cost 40 cents or more (compared with less than half a cent for unimproved varieties), these plants are sold as advanced seedlings in individual containers (ideal when you only need a few plants), although some lines will be available in punnets containing four plants instead of the usual six or eight. This season, most garden centres are offering a range of high performing new plants known as truss tomatoes. Each plant produces a number of well formed trusses, carrying five to six medium sized but top quality fruits. The bushes have excellent disease resistance, generally grow to 1.8 metres high and as such, will need staking. Applying a small quantity of balanced foliar with a very high potash content fertiliser every three weeks once flowering begins will help keep the plants performing.
Grosse Lisse Improved (above) and Tomatoberry (opposite page)
These are premium plants and will be sold as advanced seedlings in individual containers and sometimes in four cell punnets. Truss tomato labels to look for United Trusty Red, Ebony, Cupid and Gourmet.
Living Colour Red Truss Oasis Large Fruit Truss, Pink Pearl, Truss Plum, Tomatoberry. Other high performing tomatoes Mighty Red Apollo Improved Grosse Lisse Improved
Tomatoes
Pink Pearl - high yielding, great taste from previous page
Roma Improved These are traditional home garden favourites but have been crossed (naturally) with high performance tomato genes to produce superior plants. Collecting Heirlooms If you are interested in tomatoes with good old fashioned tomato taste, consider growing a collection of Heirloom varieties. This season, most Heirloom tomatoes in SA will be sold under the Diggers label
although Plants Plus Garden Centres have just released an Earthcore range. Top Heirloom varieties include: Black Krim Tomato - dark red purple fruit, slightly flattened. Delicate skin. Very juicy. Needs staking. Black Russian Tomato - apricot size and shape. This has a black skin with chocolate interior, high yielding, fruity flavour. Green Zebra Tomato - apricot size and shape with green stripes over a cream background. One metre high. Outstanding flavour.
Mortgage Lifter Tomato - very large fruits full of tasty pink flesh. Needs staking. Tigeralla Tomato - early maturing globular shaped with red and yellow stripes. 1.5 metres high. Tangy flavour. N.B. Heirloom tomatoes are very susceptible to common tomato diseases and should be protected by spraying or dusting regularly with a fungicide or all purpose tomato dust. Your local garden centre can help with advice on both traditional and organic products.
Megabite
Truss Plum
Large Fruit Truss
Simple crop protection to beat pests and diseases

Target spot Look for brown circular spots on the older or lower leaves particularly early in the season. This is a fungal disease that turns leaves yellow before they crop. The easiest way to protect your plants from fungal diseases and pests is to dust or spray the bushes on a regular basis. Most tomato dusts and sprays contain a fungicide and an insecticide. Sulphur sprays or dusts are
very effective in controlling fungus diseases and suppressing mites, but not caterpillars. Tomato grubs Green caterpillars, 35 cm long, that burrow into ripening fruit. Bronze surface mite Very small sap sucking insects that cause a bronzing effect, particularly on the lower
leaves. Plants are stunted and leaves turn crisp on hot days. Verticillium and Fusarium wilts Soil borne fungal diseases that seriously affect the sap flow of plants. They cannot be controlled by spraying. Plants can collapse during hot weather. Best defence is to buy disease resistant plants.
Tomatoes
Tomatoes before Christmas
he secret to harvesting your own tomatoes before Christmas is to keep the plants warm during the first few weeks of growth. Tomatoes planted into cold, wet soil will simply sit and sulk. The setback they receive could delay harvesting by up to a month. Tomatoes are sun lovers, so choose the warmest position in the garden. The ground must be well drained and it is also essential to protect the plants from wind. Many successful home gardeners grow their early vegetables in beds raised 20-30 cm higher than the surrounding garden. This improves drainage and it makes it easier to warm the soil by covering the beds in clear plastic. The plastic should be spread a week before planting with the tomatoes being placed in slits cut into the material. If the area is exposed to the wind, try erecting a barrier using shadecloth or plastic. Large, plastic, cordial containers with the base and top removed can be used to cover individual plants. These containers act as a mini glasshouse, stimulating the plants into early growth. Check the soil every 4-5 days and water
Pink Pearl - early to mature
only if necessary. Two to three weeks later, the containers should be removed, although plastic on the soil can remain in place until the advent of hot weather. Resist the temptation to ply your tomato plants with fertiliser, particularly those containing nitrogen only. Nitrogen stimulates the plants into vigorous growth and this will be at the expense of your early tomatoes. Compost and a balanced fertiliser
containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potash (spread at half a cupful to the square metre) should be dug into the soil before planting. Apply a half strength liquid fertiliser to the plants two to three days after establishing and then go easy on the feeding. A liquid garden fertiliser with a high potash content applied every three weeks is all that is needed. Pay particular attention to watering. Tomatoes will produce more fruit for longer if the root zone is given a deep soaking with the topsoil being allowed to dry out completely between watering. Use furrow or drip irrigation if possible, and try and avoid overhead sprinklers. Wetting the foliage only encourages leaf disease problems. By late October, ground temperatures should be warm and the plants root zone should be covered with a 6-8 cm layer of organic mulch. This will keep the roots cool and help prevent uneven soil moisture. Jon Lamb provides topical gardening information every Friday in The Advertiser and on ABC 891s talkback gardening program every Saturday 8.30-10.00 am.
Renmarks 17th Rose Festival

Release of Renmarks Rose Festival Fair Cabaret Luncheon Floral Demonstration Open Gardens & Garden Bus Tours Art Galleries/Exhibitions Tea Rose Collection River Cruises Scarecrow Competition Cake Decorating Demonstration Quilting Display And much more
14th - 23rd Oct 2011
For more information contact Secretary Miriam McLean 08 8586 4695
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Eye-catching colour for spring

Trixie Bolero - three long lasting perennials
es, this is what you will see when you walk through the entrance way of your local garden centre. These plants have all been selected because they are compact, trouble-free and provide brilliant colour over an extended period. Voltage with high impact Would you believe this is an old fashioned perennial osteospermum but with a garden friendly makeover? Voltage produces masses of bright, clear yellow daisy-like blooms over an extended period. It is low growing, spreading and ideal as a groundcover, hanging basket or in a large container and grows in full sun. Voltage needs good drainage and if you go easy on
the water, it should flower from September through to late autumn. Height 25-40 cm. Spreads 60-70 cm. Space plants 30-40 cm. Daisy with double blooms A series of pink, purple and white osteospermum with double blooms has also been released. These are very drought tolerant, low maintenance plants that dont need dead heading. They need full sun but are ideal for growing in garden beds or containers and in large or small gardens. Three ways with Trixie This has to be the ultimate when you need a combination of colour and something
that is decidedly different. Trixie offers a range of containers that have been planted with three different types of low growing, long lasting colourful perennials. Each combination has been selected for its ability to produce an outstanding colour display. All combinations feature a calibrachoa. These are low growing, spreading but very colourful perennial forms of petunia. In this range, the colours include light and dark blue, orange, red, purple and white. Perennial companion plants include lobelia and verbena, bacopa and bidens eldoro. Over the next few weeks, home gardeners will plant out more petunias than all other
Osteospermum Voltage
Osteospermum Double
Petunia Bumble bee
Petunia Black Velvet
Good gardening
summer annuals combined. Petunias really do thrive in the heat and are happy to grow on the dry side. However, the latest petunias will certainly catch your eye. Bumble bee A very sophisticated petunia with a black base and a very distinctive yellow star, flushed with dark purple or pink around the edges. The bushes produce an upright mound. They are early to flower and will be covered through spring and summer. Ideal for hanging baskets, containers or garden beds.
Black Velvet Black Velvet is the worlds first black petunia. It also produces an upright mound, flowers early in the season and will continue to flower through the hottest weather. Great in a mixed container or making a statement by itself. Minifamous calibrochoa Calibrochoas are a perennial form of petunias that produce masses of small, belllike flowers. Given full sun and good drainage, they will flower right through the growing season.
Minifamous is a new double flowered form that has very attractive bell-shaped blooms and layered petals. ALSO WORTH CONSIDERING Laurentia Blue Star Pretty star shaped blooms above soft mounded foliage. A perennial often treated as an annual. Height - 30 cm. Marigold French Flame Compact, bushy habit. Large flowers, vigorous, distinctive mahogany coloured petals edged with vibrant yellow.
Laurentia Blue Star
Minifamous calibrochoa
Marigold French Flame
Vadoulis Garden Centre

much more than just plants
Living Outdoors
560 Main North Road, Gawler, SA Telephone: (08) 8522 3400 www.vadoulis.com.au
huge range in store now!
Recycling
Life beyond the green bin

Composting garden materials and food scraps diverts this valuable organic matter from landfill.
hat happens to all the stuff we put in our green bins? It doesnt just get dumped somewhere out of sight, out of mind to decompose on its own. That would be an enormous loss of valuable nutrients. Organic material is a valuable resource that the state cannot afford to send to landfill, particularly as South Australian soils are severely nutrient-deficient. Green organics (or green waste) are professionally processed into compostbased products such as soil conditioners, mulches, garden soils, top dressing soils and potting mixes. New products are continuously being developed for environmental applications such as erosion control and stormwater treatment. Products for more specific purposes are also available for agricultural applications such as viticulture, fruit, vegetables, grains and pasture improvement. What you put in your green bin can be used to benefit the environment and the economy The Australian recycled organics industry regularly updates and publishes an interesting set of numbers demonstrating the importance of the commercial composting sector. Over 120 businesses are involved, employing the equivalent of 1,900 full time positions in addition to creating jobs in transport, distribution and the application of the products.1 The sector recycles more than 5.8 million tonnes of organic material each year.2 This recovers more than 46,000 tonnes of nutrients that would otherwise be lost to landfill.3 In South Australia, the Compost for Soils collaborative project, jointly funded by Zero Waste SA with industry, includes the states three largest compost processors the Jeffries Group, Peats Soil and Garden
Supplies and Van Shaiks Bio Gro. In 2009-10 almost 636,000 tonnes of organics were recovered for reprocessing in South Australia. The most significant organic recovery streams were 262,000 tonnes of timber followed by 220,000 tonnes of garden organics collected mostly from council green bins at the kerbside. Saving water and supporting food security hold water, reduce leaching loss and improve the soil create biologically healthy soils that use less water, less fertiliser and fewer pesticides mulches can save more than 30 percent of irrigation water4 lower extreme soil temperatures in summer and thus alleviate plant stress by insulating the soil in summer Reducing climate change Around 90 percent of greenhouse gas
emissions from landfills are a result of decomposing organic material which could be diverted. Composting garden materials and food scraps divert this organic matter from landfill.5 Composting reduces the quantity of waste going to landfill and therefore cuts down on methane, a strong greenhouse gas and contributor to global warming. Compost can reduce soil erosion by up to 30 percent through adding structure and assisting plant growth and vegetation establishment.6 When the green bin leaves your kerb, it takes about eight weeks to be processed After being delivered to a composting facility, the green organics are blended and formed in oblong-shaped hills called windrows. Theyre bigger than you would
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Rule of green thumb: If it doesnt grow - it doesnt go! Non-compostables like old garden hose, plant pots and plastic bags can NOT be composted.
expect about the size of two doubledecker buses end to end. The windrows are aerated using a network of fans which means the compost does not need to be turned frequently which many home composting systems require. When the material comes in to a composting facility, unfortunately there is contamination, particularly from households. After composting, the material is put through a screening and sorting process. For example, Jeffries uses a machine about the size of a two-story granny flat. Its more or less a very sophisticated food processor nicknamed Ross (Recycled Organics Sorting System) and was specifically designed and commissioned by Jeffries with help from Zero Waste SA. Over several weeks, the material is blended, composted, aerated, screened, sorted, ground, extracted, magnetised, destoned and tested. Then it all ends up as various types of mulch and compost before being delivered to customers - from single person households to be used in the garden to South Australias large councils for reserves and sporting grounds. One step in the process can be dyeing the mulches different colours. Jeffries managing director, Lachlan remembers one of the strange things he noticed when travelling overseas. If youre on the Pacific coast of the US, everyone uses subtle, earth-toned mulch. But as you travel across, the further east you get, the colours start to blend with
urban environment - unusual colours. South Australian gardeners and gardenlovers have probably noticed the popularity of the bright reddish mulches maybe it reminds people of ochre at sunset.
1 National Processors Survey 2009-10, researched by the Recycled Organics Unit, published by Compost Australia. This survey does not target businesses processing less than 5000 tonnes p.a. and does not achieve 100% response rate. As such, these figures are conservative, as many on-farm and other small scale organic recyclers are not captured. 2 Recycled Organics Unit for Compost Australia, Organics Recycling in Australia, 2008-2009 3 Adapted from calculations prepared by B. Paulin, Dept of Agriculture and Food, Perth WA (unpublished) 4 The Capability of the Australian Recycled Organics Industry. June 2011. http://www.compostforsoils.com.au/index. php?page=benefits-of-using-ro 5 US Composting Council (1996). Benefits of Compost. 6 The Field Guide to Compost Use. US EPA (1997). Innovative uses of compost. Erosion Control, Turf Remediation, and Landscaping.
Yes Vegetable and fruit scraps Fallen leaves and fruit Tea leaves and tea bags Coffee grounds Vacuum cleaner dust Dead flowers Soft stems of plants Egg shells Old newspapers (shredded) Lawn clippings Sawdust and small amounts of wood ash or lime Tissues Biodegradable corn starch bags
No Plastic plant pots Plastic seedling trays Plastic bags not even to keep your clippings bundled together or tidy Non biodegradable bags Batteries Household chemicals Polystyrene or foam Nappies Metal Garden hose Garden tools Dead pets/animals Magazines
SA Garden & Outdoor Living supporter:
www.zerowaste.sa.gov.au
Fruit trees
Fruit trees - feast or famine
heavy crop of small fruit one year followed by a small crop of very large fruit the next. If this is happening to the fruit trees in your garden, you have what is known as a bi-annual bearing problem. The pattern can arise in almost all types of fruit trees but apricots, plums, peaches, apples and citrus fruits are particularly prone. Bi-annual bearing often begins when a tree carrying a heavy crop is placed under stress, such as not having enough moisture during summer. The best way around this problem is to reduce the load of fruit on the tree during the heavy year by removing or thinning it while the fruit is still quite small i.e. size of large marbles. However, fruit trees tend to undergo a natural shedding a few weeks after fruit set so wait until this has occurred (usually early November). Individual bunches should be reduced to no more than two fruits and where the bunches are close together, there should be no more than one piece of fruit to each bunch. Ideally the fruit should be spaced 15-20 cm apart. When thinning, take the opportunity to remove any pieces that are marked or misshapen. Try and not look at the ground as you work as you may have to remove 30-40 percent of the fruit. Thinning early in the season will result
Apricots are among the fruits most susceptible to the bi-annual bearing problem.
in a good sized crop of average sized fruit both this year and the next. Mature fruit trees (4-5 m) carrying a heavy load this season should be given extra encouragement by spreading 2-3 kg of fertiliser over the root system. Use one of the complete fertilisers containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potash.
This should be spread under the outer canopy of leaves and make sure it is watered into the topsoil. Trees carrying a light load can miss out on a spring application of fertiliser. However, all fruit trees regardless of the load they are carrying will benefit from 1-2 kg of fertiliser applied during early autumn.
Summer pruning can deliver the goods

any home gardeners prune their fruit trees quite heavily during winter. This usually results in strong vigorous growth and a large tall tree that is often hard to manage. The way around this problem is to replace this single winter operation with a light pruning in winter followed by a further light pruning of any vigorous growth during late November or early December.
This summer pruning makes a good deal of sense as it redirects the trees energy into smaller laterals and fruit buds. It also overcomes the need to prune your trees back hard every winter. Young fruit trees still developing a permanent framework of branches will certainly benefit from summer pruning. Main laterals that have produced more than 45 cm of growth should have up
to one third of the length removed in November or early December while vigorous side shoots should also have tip growth removed. Regular summer pruning followed by light pruning in winter will encourage young fruit trees to begin bearing within two to three years of planting. However, of greater importance, it will help keep your trees smaller and far more manageable.
New plants
Whats new at your garden centre

The latest new plants available from Nursery and Garden Industry SA centres Sunpatiens
First impatiens series that tolerates full sun. Thicker petals and foliage provide better tolerance to heat and disease. Flowers both early and later than traditional impatiens. Great colour ranges for containers, baskets and beds. www.ballaustralia.com
Hollyhock Crimson
A compact variety with large semi-double to double flowers in the first year of growth (late spring to mid autumn). Sun lover. Height 90 cm. www.oasishorticulture.com.au
Herb Stevia Sweetleaf

A natural alternative to sugar. The leaves are incredibly sweet when used fresh or dry. Bushy plant. Very high yielding. Adapts well to container growing. Sun lover. 45-75 cm. www.ballaustralia.com
Watermelon seedless Red & Yellow

Two new medium sized (5-7 kg) seedless watermelons with red or yellow crisp, sweet flesh. Thin rind. Supplied with pollenizer to boost flower set. www.oasishorticulture.com.au
Loropetalum Plum Gorgeous

A stunning feature plant with deep plum to burgundy coloured foliage all year round. Tassle like raspberry coloured flowers mainly in spring - repeats in autumn. Vigorous but compact growth with domed canopy. Heat and dry tolerant. Frost hardy. www.pga.com.au
New plants
Friolina
A very different but extremely versatile form of viola (viola cornuta) with excellent tolerance to heat and cold. The plants have a well developed trailing habit with a continuous and very attractive show of self cleaning flowers during autumn and again in spring. Fiolina plants are highly branched and produce numerous flowers and because of their trailing habit are ideal in hanging baskets, ground covering or patio containers. www.colourwave.com.au
Espaliered Michelia Fairy Blush

Well grown espaliered Michelia. Part of a series of ready to go ornamental and fruiting wall plants. Fairy Blush has very fragrant lilac flowers during spring and autumn. Sun or part shade. www.merrywoodplants.com.au
Hydrangea Strawberries and Cream

The original variety from a very attractive new series of hydrangeas. Numerous blooms on a mounded bush with bright green leaves. Very different to most hydrangeas. Very suited to indoor use. Excellent container or landscape plant. Prefers partial shade to full sun. www.tesselaar.com.au
Hellebore Tutu
A strong, easy to grow, reliable perennial with flecked petals and elegant ruffled centres. Flowers from mid winter through spring. Sun, part shade www.pga.com.au
Lobularia Snow Princess

A reinvented but very reliable form of alyssum. A heat loving plant producing large flower heads in fashionable white throughout most of the year. Honey scented, very early to grow, does not self seed. Selected as a display plant for garden beds, containers and particularly hanging baskets. Needs full sun or very bright light. www.aussiewinners.com.au
Landscape supplies
Get to know your local landscape supply yard
ave you ever wondered whats inside your local landscape supply yard? If you are a do-ityourself gardener, its a bit like paying a short visit to paradise. Composts, soils and mulches, along with an amazing range of pavers, paving sands and gravel, not to mention cement sleepers, edging materials and innovative building blocks are all there. In reality, you will find all of the basic ingredients needed to create or improve your own landscape. The bulky materials like soils and mulches are usually piled high in large storage bins. For home gardeners with a towbar on their car, it is simply a matter of borrowing or hiring a 6 x 4 trailer, pulling into the yard and making your selection. When youre ready, the materials will be loaded for you via a front end loader and you are on your way. The other alternative is to have the materials delivered to your front gate. In most suburbs, it will add around $25-30 to the total cost of the materials. If you have never been inside a landscape supply yard, do pay a visit. Browse around and dont be afraid to ask questions as most operators have accumulated an amazing wealth of practical landscape information. You will find they are more than happy to show you around, whether it is weekdays or weekends you are always welcome. A typical location is Marion Sand & Metal Paving centre and depot manager, Keith Willsher, strongly believes in his operators having a friendly chat with people as they arrive. This is the type of service you can expect when you visit the depot. We like to explain what is available, identify what materials will suit their needs and most important, help them work out how much they will need. The staff are experienced in calculating quantities. All you have to do is provide details of the area to be covered or treated, Keith says.
However, if you are buying soil, remember it is the backbone of your garden. Quality loam should contain a large amount of organic material and plenty of air spaces. Organic composts provide plant nutrients, improve soil structure and retain soil moisture. The air spaces are essential for oxygen and drainage. Most unimproved garden soils are deficient in both organic matter and air spaces. According to Keith, soil suitable for a lawn should contain 80 percent coarse sand and at least 20 percent quality organic loam. On the other hand, a quality loam for growing vegetables or fruit trees should contain 40-50 percent composted, organic material as a minimum. Mulches One of the best ways to provide mulch for your garden is to buy in bulk. Its relatively inexpensive but the benefits to your garden are many. A 5-7 cm layer of mulch such as Jeffries mulches, comprising the Forever coloured mulch range as well as Forest Mulch and playground pine chips, all help to control weeds, cut water loss by up to 60 percent and if the mulch is organic, it will slowly break down to a composted material that is
extremely beneficial to the topsoil. Blended materials such as Recover are ideal for mulching most garden beds as they contain plenty of chunky material to act as reasonably long lasting mulch but also add valuable organic matter to the topsoil. We also provide what we call Garden n Tub Mix. This is a special blend of composted materials and soil that is ideal for filling a half wine barrel or large planter containers, and is ready for immediate planting Keith said. Our depot operators are quite used to filling trailers, buckets and different sized containers with all kinds of landscape materials, again it is a service we are proud to offer. When it comes to home delivery, you can order from half a tonne of blended soil and compost - ideal for filling a small raised bed - up to a very large tip truck full of garden mulch.
www.jeffries.com.au
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As soon as rainwater hits our roads, pavements, gutters, drains and other surfaces it quickly becomes contaminated. Open space wetlands allow stormwater to undergo a cleansing process, removing pollutants and turning it into a fit-for-purpose resource.
Stormwater - a vital part of the mix
he past 10 years of drought have shown us that it is more important than ever to reduce our reliance on water from the River Murray. We need a diverse water supply which includes climate and non-climate dependent sources such as desalination in order to ensure maximum water diversity and security. South Australia is already a national leader in stormwater harvesting, wastewater recycling, rainwater tank ownership and irrigation efficiency; however there is always more that can be done. That is why the Government has produced a Stormwater Strategy. The Stormwater Strategy provides a comprehensive road map for future stormwater management in South Australia. Importantly, the strategy highlights how individual urban water resources can no longer be managed in isolation. Stormwater should not be managed independently of wastewater and strong flood-mitigation measures must be incorporated into our urban design, making Adelaide a water-sensitive city. The strategy outlines nine actions which are considered essential in achieving successful stormwater management.
These actions include developing an integrated blueprint for urban stormwater and wastewater by 2014, introducing interim targets for water sensitive urban design, identifying ways to improve stormwater infrastructure, completing further studies to improve stormwater knowledge and commissioning a scientific research program to underpin urban water policy. The blueprint will be the first of its kind in Australia and will help to ensure our
state remains a national leader in water management. In 2009, the Water for Good plan was introduced to ensure South Australias water future. This plan anticipates the capacity to harvest 20 gigalitres of stormwater a year in Greater Adelaide by 2013 and 60 gigalitres by 2050. The Stormwater Strategy will play a key role in helping us reach these ambitious targets. State and local government, academia, industry and the community will be working together to implement the strategys nine actions. This unified approach is vital to ensure that our state makes the most of this highly valuable, fit-for-purpose resource. By combining increased stormwater capture and re-use with what is already happening in our homes, gardens and state, we will ensure we have a diverse water supply for South Australians.
www.waterforgood.sa.gov.au
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Let there be light

BY JANE BEST
hether it is enhancing the night time environment or simply improving outside security, garden lighting has an important role to play. Exterior spaces around the home have many uses, however all too often they are dedicated to day time use. The addition of wellpositioned and correctly designed lighting allows you to make much better use of these functional areas. When this occurs, lighting can have a very positive impact and provide the family with valuable, extended time to entertain in the garden. To me, lighting is a relationship with shadows and light. Nature, particularly in a home garden, offers a range of beautiful objects to illuminate. Uplights strategically placed and easily camouflaged in garden beds are an easy but very effective way of projecting shadows onto a blank wall or fence, creating a piece of living art. Alternatively, you may consider washing selected walls with light as this will allow you to silhouette your plants and sculptures against the light. The use of optics is a good way to control beam angles that direct the light onto the exact point of interest, for example a narrow beam of light highlighting each feature pillar or post. Reflecting light from surfaces such as a corrugated tin porch roof is also worth considering as it allows even but indirect lighting to the whole area, and importantly eliminates glare and fixture distraction. Correct lighting can also create both dynamic and intimate spaces that will assist you in your entertaining requirements. I like to use exterior areas like interior rooms with purpose light for tables and cooking areas and ambient lighting for those romantic nooks. Special purpose lighting Consider how you use lighting and switching inside your home and bring these theories outside. It is often very useful to be able to separate switching for tables and barbecue surfaces to that of the ambient feature lighting as each has its own purpose. Think also about the use of dimmer switches as they allow you to control how much light you require at any given evening. When adding colour to a focal point, lets not over-do it. A special feature should say look at me - I am it! but this is not always about more light. Make sure the light is even, balanced and gives depth to your feature. Dont flatten areas with too much light. There are many factors to consider when planning your exterior lighting. These include electrical accessibility, energy saving options, visibility, colours, glare, scale and controllability.
And lets not forget quality and reliability of products. These should be made for our harsh Australian environment so they do not corrode or disintegrate in Adelaide soils. If these factors are taken into account and planned for, you can enjoy a successful lighting system that will last the test of time. A good place to start is to create a master plan. This can be a useful tool and ensures you get it right first time. Then with the assistance of someone with experience in garden lighting, you can plan, grow and extend your system to suit both your lifestyle and your budget. Jane Best is a lighting consultant and manager for Gardens at Night.
MERRYWOOD
specialising in Espalier Plants
An espalier is a beautiful addition to any garden. It can soften a wall or be the focal point of your garden design. Merrywood hand train each espalier so it is ready for you to enjoy.
www.merrywoodplants.com.au
91 Lower Somerville Rd, Baxter Vic 3911 Tel: 0417 115 758
The Cutting Edge
Heres the best of the worst!

SA garden writer and mediterranean plant authority, TREVOR NOTTLE keeps an eye on gardenings latest issues.
ith spring comes the season for garden and landscape awards and so its timely to recognise a few of the better examples of the worst I have seen this year. These awards are based on my own observations and as far as I know, have all been made by professional landscapers and garden designers. Best commercial award for a bad error of plant choice and design goes to a boundary planting along a 30 cm space in a redeveloped caryard where two advanced size golden elms (Ulmus x Van Houtteii) normal growth (12 m x 10 m) have been planted four metres apart to screen a neighbouring property. Best residential award for silly design goes to a cluster of 5-star eco-friendly inner suburban executive homes which have been enhanced by plantations of five advanced super-sized Manchurian pear trees one metre apart in the front garden space of each home. Given that the space is 15 metres wide and five metres deep, the number of trees seems to be purely cosmetic. Such an overplanting to create an instant garden needs immediate remediation by removing at least three of the trees to give the others a chance to grow next year, and to allow for visitors pushing through the over-growth to the front door. The same development gets the award for designed inconvenience. There is no room anywhere for the three rubbish bins provided by the local council. The houses sprawl across the entire block of land from front to back and side to side so all the rubbish has to go through the house to where? Great design that, well worthy of the highest criticism. And this was designed by an architect!
The Cutting Edge

Theres good news too Congratulations and admiration to whoever replaced the grungy New Zealand flaxes in the landscaping outside the Art Gallery with the delightful, and cheery, Aloe x Topaz. Every time I walk down North Terrace the soft orange flowers draw my attention away from all the surrounding greyness. Lets have more of such attractive hardy plants in public landscapes across the city. The range of smaller aloes provides quite a colourful choice from flashy primary colours to pastel tones and white. Following the public brou-ha-ha about the weeds and poor maintenance in the Mount Lofty Botanic Gardens, things show good signs of improvement. A very feisty meeting with the Minister responsible, Paul Caica, and the Director, Stephen Forbes, some weeks back in Stirling challenged their perceptions that everything up there was just fine. Since then some flexibility has been found in staffing at the Adelaide Botanic Gardens, sufficient to send some of the horticulturalists from the city up to the Hills to eradicate weeds and raise the level of presentation. Late Press Bad news too; it seems the total ABG budget for the new financial year was slashed from $6.3m last year to $3.9m for
the coming year. Oh dear! What hope for Mount Lofty? What hope for Wittunga? Get excited about this Cycads spreading everywhere even to Aldinga. Cycas revoluta, the Japanese sago palm, is taking over the town from North Terrace to the coast, in Norwood and West Lakes, to Mawson Lakes and Andrews Farm and as far as One Tree Hill and Happy Valley. When will the invading horde reach Victor? And what will be done about finding a new plant of the year for copycat landscapers? Read these The Adelaide Park Lands, by Patricia Sumerling and learn about why this treasure of a place is as important now as it has been for the past 170 years or so. Kitchen Gardens of Australia by Kate Herd shows how to have productive and pretty veggie gardens. Some are more productive than others and some are prettier than others. There is ample variety, so take your pick. Flemings Fruit and Ornamental Tree Guide by Liz Darmody and Paige Fleming; a thorough guide for home gardeners selecting deciduous fruit and ornamental trees. Carrick Hill, heydays of the Haywards 1940 1970. The Friends of Carrick Hill tell the racy bits about the Grand Life on the Springfield estate along with giving away some of the best recipes. Great fun. For the to-do list Check out the numerous spring garden shows, expositions and plant sales and get out there seeing, meeting and buying. MidSeptember is probably the latest to get pot grown plants out into the garden before additional watering will be needed.
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Garden scents
Lavender Lavandula angustifolia
Spring is the season of scents and KATHY ERREY offers some handy advice to those who want to follow their nose.
othing delights the senses like beautiful fragrance. It evokes childhood memories and feelings of romance, warmth, pleasure and happiness. Gardens can produce fragrance all year round, but probably the strongest perfume comes late in winter and early spring from the vigorous twining climber, Jasmin polyanthum, when masses of pink buds open to pure white star-shaped, intensely perfumed flowers. Jasmin polyanthum can be grown against walls and fences or for a softer look, try trailing one around a pillar or post. Plant in
Viburnum tinus Anvi
It is a golden maxim to cultivate the garden for the nose, and the eyes will take care of themselves
Robert Louis Stevenson, 1905
well-drained soil in full sun or part shade and provide a climbing structure, such as wire or lattice.
Sweet peas
It is frost sensitive. Prune immediately after flowering to maintain a tidy shape. If you prefer a more subtle fragrance, Viburnum tinus is a star performer in our South Australian climate. It can be used as an evergreen large shrub or small tree and is ideal for hedging as it has a dense growth habit. A recent release is Viburnum tinus Anvi. Anvi has large flower heads with clusters of pink buds opening to fragrant creamywhite flowers from late winter through spring on a background of dark green leathery leaves. This plant is very hardy and frost resistant.
Heliotrope Baby Blue
Erysimum
Good gardening
English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) is an old romantic for summer scent. Dwarf varieties, like Munstead and Hidcote are available for the smaller garden and require very little extra watering, making them ideal for the drier areas of South Australia. Lavender prefers well-drained soil and is suitable for planting in pots, garden beds or used as a low hedge. Wallflowers (known previously as Cheiranthus, renamed Erysimum) are probably one of the hardiest small flowering shrubs with a delicate honey scent. It is very long flowering and is available in purple, yellow, orange as well as bi and multi-colours. Wallflowers are frost tolerant, low water users and attract butterflies. Heliotrope arborescens, commonly known as Cherry Pie, has a vanilla fragrance and is an old fashioned plant. Heliotrope has ornamental purple-green foliage producing aromatic lilac-coloured flowers and grows to about 60 cm in height.
It is frost sensitive, and so in colder areas can be grown in pots and moved to a sheltered position. Sweet peas are easy to grow and heavenly scented. Make a note to plant the seed on April Fools Day. Water in and then dont water again until the seedlings emerge. Protect new plants from slugs and snails. Both tall and dwarf varieties are available and the dwarf varieties can be grown as a groundcover - as such it doesnt need trellising. During spring, youll be rewarded with heavily scented flowers in colours ranging from light pink, dark pink, purple to white. There is no better gift to yourself or a friend than a home picked bouquet of fragrant flowers. Kathy Errey of Outdoor Canvas Plants is a passionate gardener with a lifetime experience in selecting and growing plants for SA gardens. She is a member of Horticultural Media Association (SA).
Jasmin polyanthum
www.balhannahnurseries.com.au
FRUIT
IN A POT
GROW YOUR
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Compost
Reduce your water bill with compost

igging compost into the garden has been likened to installing a huge water tank for the personal use of your plants. All you need to do is dig a 2-5 cm layer of quality compost into the top 15-20 cm of your garden soil. Increasing the organic matter in your soil by even 1 percent can increase its ability to hold an additional 16 litres of water per square metre. Thats over a bucket and a half of water! The water that is retained in the organic matter is stored for later use by plants once the moisture in the plants root zone has been used. And of course, if you cover the soil with mulch, this stored moisture cant escape as evaporation. Over a complete growing season, the amount of water you can save simply by digging compost into the topsoil runs into thousands of litres.
For anyone planning to grow vegetables or plant fruit trees or shrubs in the garden, this has to be good news. During summer it will make a very significant difference to the plants ability to survive during extremely hot weather. In less extreme conditions, the higher levels of organic matter mean you can extend the time in between watering. By the end of a growing season, you will be surprised at the amount of water you have saved. Making compost Compost is the material left after leaves, lawn clippings, spent annuals and vegetable plants, even chopped prunings, have been placed in a heap and left to decompose. In a large commercial compost heap, the decomposition process generates considerable heat and the plant material can be converted into humus in six to
eight weeks. However, in most gardens, where small layers of material are added on an irregular basis, the process can take six months or more and often a fair percentage of the original material is not fully composted. Composted and semi-composted materials both make a great soil improver when dug into the topsoil. However, with semi-composted materials, it is important to wait four to six weeks between application and planting to allow time for the decomposition process to be completed in the soil. If you dont make your own compost, dont worry. Premium quality compost is readily available in bulk from your local landscape supply yard. Jeffries has a strong reputation for top quality materials. Supplies of compost are available by the trailer load or you can arrange to have material delivered to your front gate.
Get the most out of your soil naturally!

ow is the best time to start thinking about nourishing your garden beds by digging organic compost into your soil. Not only will it freshen your garden up after a long cold winter, but it will help in preparing your soil to retain moisture during summer. Research shows that there is a strong relationship between the levels of soil organic matter and the amount of water that can be stored in the soil says Lachlan Jeffries, managing director of Jeffries. Organic
systems use water more efficiently due to better soil structure and higher levels of organic matter. One of the most important components of organic matter is humus which has the ability to store 20 to 30 times its weight in water. It provides a vital source of nutrients to the living organisms that help to maintain a healthy soil life, and its darker colour can help to warm up cold soils in spring. Keeping a good level of organic matter in your soil is also an important part of
improving aeration which promotes better root establishment and growth in plants. It provides a slower release of nutrients over a longer period, giving healthier sustained growth. Jeffries Organic Compost is now also available in handy 30L bags from your local participating stockist. With a full range of compost, soil and mulches available in the bag range, you can find yourself with a greener, lusher garden in three easy steps! Try it today, and see the difference!
Jeffries Organic Compost

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Fruit trees
A fence full of fruit doesnt have to take up space

hen space in the backyard is limited and your heart is set on producing fresh fruit, take a sideways look at your garden. In many gardens, the side or back fence, beside a garage wall or maybe that thin space dividing your entertaining area from the rest of the garden is an ideal place to grow your fruit trees - espalier style. An espalier is just a fancy word for a thin hedge where the trees side branches are encouraged to grow along a fence or wall on a supporting trellis. Growing fruit trees as an espalier is not difficult. Apart from the obvious advantage of saving space, the trees are easy to prune, protect and harvest. Considering the traditional backyard is becoming smaller and with many people now living in units or flats with only a courtyard to garden, growing your fresh fruit as an espalier makes a great deal of sense. Citrus are ideal plants for hedging as their canopy of evergreen leaves acts as a permanent screen while still producing
The first decision to make is what fence or wall to use. Keep in mind one side of the tree will be completely shaded, so choose a fence that receives the greatest amount of sun. The other essential is a well drained soil. When deciding which type of fruit or fruits to grow, remember apples, pears and most plums need cross pollination. So two trees of the one type that flower around the same time are needed. Your garden centre should be able to help with this advice. However, dont overlook the value of buying a well advanced fruit tree already established on its own trellis. A tree in a 40 cm container trained on 1 m x 0.6 m trellis may cost $550 or more but it provides an ideal way of getting started. Ready to go trellised trees can be easily removed from their original container and planted directly into the ground or repotted into a larger container.
Lisbon Lemon
heavy yields of fruit. Olives, apples, pears and most stone fruit also adapt to this form of growing.
More
information: Advice on how to plant and train fruit tree espaliers: www.merrywoodplants.com.au
TAKE A STAB?
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Log onto www.1100.com.au or dial 1100 to request information on underground pipes and cables BEFORE you dig. Its the essential first step in any safe excavation.
The Essential First Step
LANDSCAPE AWARDS OF EXCELLENCE
Top landscapes take awards

n the landscape industry, an award for excellence is recognition for work that has been judged to be outstanding. This year, the awards coordinated by the Landscape Association of SA, saw record entries with more than 80 nominations for design, construction and maintenance in community and residential landscapes as well as special awards for individual features and environmental sustainability. While the awards are highly prized by winning landscapers, they also provide a sound reference point for anyone needing inspiration or new ideas. Further information, ph 8210 5229 www.landscapesa.com.au
Residential Design over $100,000 (Joint Winner) Adelaide Garden Design Needlebush Drive, Hayborough
Residential Design over $100,000 (Joint Winner) Beryl Bredon Landscapes Church Road, Mitcham Residential Construction over $100,000 Exterior Concepts The Mews, Mawson Lakes (left)
Residential Design $60,000 - $100,000 Beryl Bredon Landscapes High Street, Seacliff
Landscape Association of South Australia Inc.
Residential Construction $60,000 - $100,000 Exterior Concepts Dover Street, Malvern (below)
Residential Design $40,000 - $60,000 Caroline Dawes Gardens Barnes Avenue, Magill
Residential Design under $20,000 Caroline Dawes Gardens The Esplanade, Henley Beach Residential Design $20,000 - $40,000 Gumleaf Gardens Jam Factory Strata Project
Individual Landscape Feature Green Star Design Studio Maison, Kent Town Residential Construction $40,000 - $60,000 Exterior Concepts Ninth Avenue, Royston Park
Most Environmentally Sensitive Project Adelaide Garden Design Needlebush Drive, Hayborough
Commercial Construction under $100,000 (Joint Winner) Summit Projects & Construction Australian Native Garden, Botanic Gardens
Commercial Construction $100,000 - $500,000 (Joint Winner) Landscape Environs Botanic Gardens Project
Commercial Construction $100,000 - $500,000 (Joint Winner) Landscape Construction Service Hazelwood Park Adventure Playspace
Commercial Construction under $100,000 (Joint Winner) Harris & Noonan GP Plus Elizabeth
Maintenance of Commercial Landscape Landscape Construction Services Goldsborough Industrial Estate
Commercial Design $100,000 - $500,000 Wax Design & Ric McConaghy Hazelwood Park Adventure Playspace
Commercial Construction over $500,000 Landscape Environs Port Noarlunga Memorial Gardens
Good gardening
Re-potting isnt compulsory

Do all plants need re-potting? No but for plants that produce strong, vigorous growth each year, it is certainly recommended.
t doesnt take long for the roots of a healthy vigorous plant to reach the sides of a container. With nowhere to go, the strongest roots quickly circle those in the centre. By the end of the growing season, the outer roots will completely enclose the rootball and the plant will need to be continually plied with water and plant foods if it is to remain in reasonable shape. Roots poking through or blocking the drain holes, plants that wilt very quickly after watering, pale leaves and lack of strong new growth are all good indicators that re-potting may be necessary. To be sure, take a look at the roots. If the plant can be lifted, tip it upside down and remove the container. If the roots are not visible, or if they have only just reached the outside of the rootball, you should get by for another season without re-potting. Incidentally, blackened soft roots are a good indicator of overwatering, poor drainage and/or lack of air in the rootball. Re-potting into fresh potting mix and easing back on the watering will quickly remedy these problems. Go for a quality mix Choose a quality potting mix for the operation. Those that conform to national industry standards are easily recognised by a series of ticks on the side of the pack. A quality mix contains fully composted pine bark and chunky sand allowing air to move freely around the plants roots, ensuring excess moisture drains freely. Premium mixes contain enough added plant food for the first few weeks growth, whereas a standard mix fill needs fertiliser added. Beware of budget price mixes; invariably they pack tightly together, preventing the free movement of air and water. Theres no point in paying good money for healthy plants only to have them quickly ruined by an inferior quality mix just for the sake of saving a few dollars. Because the plants are not easily damaged by re-potting in spring, it is possible to reduce the rootball by 20 to 30 percent. The discarded material should be replaced with quality potting mix and this should keep the plants happy for the next season or so. It is good practice to use a face mask when using potting mix, particularly when you are just opening the bag. This reduces the likelihood of inhaling dust.
It is also a good practice to wash your hands thoroughly after the operation just in case there are harmful contaminants in the mix. Re-potting is quite easy if you carry out the following steps: Turn container upside down to remove plant. Tap side of pot gently if rootball is jammed. Fill bottom of container with quality potting mix. Place rootball so it is 3-4 cm below the top of the container. Fill around the rootball with potting mix and firm lightly. Water the potting mix thoroughly.
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New products
New garden products

Available from Nursery and Garden Industry SA centres Confidor tablets
A very convenient to use tablet form of insecticide. The active ingredient is imidacloprid (Confidor), a low toxic systemic insecticide for controlling most sap sucking insects including leaf psyllids. Each tablet contains additional nutrients to boost plant uptake. Very long lasting. www.yates.com.au
Liquid Potash Plus

A very convenient way of applying additional potash to vegetables, flowers and fruit trees. One litre pack makes 1000 litres of ready to use product. Contains high analysis of potash - 20% plus additional phosphorus (4%) for increased uptake. www.searles.com.au
Parrot box
Nesting box designed specifically for parrots (rosellas and lorikeets). Made from long lasting pre-treated timber. Fully assembled, ready to install with specially designed PV spacers to minimise tree damage and increase life of box. www.faunature.com.au
Instant Vegie Patch

All you need to grow tomatoes and salad crops or most vegetables and herbs. Contains horticultural growbag and premium coir media. Simply add plants, water and fertiliser. www.brunnings.com.au
Troforte
A slow and controlled release fertiliser that has been coated with natural Australian microbes and minerals to boost plant nutrient uptake. The prills continue to release nutrients up to six months. Available in four formulations. www.smoult.com.au
Easy Wetta Premium Potting Mix

A top quality premium potting mix containing a blend of composted material. Also contains medium grade coir to improve the materials waterholding capacity without compromising drainage or pH. Contains slow release fertiliser. www.brunnings.com.au
GreenSmart Pot Kendocide

A selective chemical for controlling most algae and liverworts in lawns, on paths and in synthetic turf. Also effective as a disinfectant for pruning equipment. www.smoult.com.au A well designed self watering container for growing vegetables, herbs or flowers. Its design takes the guesswork out of watering, resulting in twice the produce in half the space. Fertiliser can be added directly to the water reservoir. Australian designed, ideal in small areas and for people with no garden. www.greensmartpots.com.au
Cut your food bill by growing from seed

With the cost of fresh food rising, growing your own vegetables can save your family hundreds, even thousands of dollars per year. Mr Fothergills provides excellent value for money with a large number of seeds per pack so much so that we proudly feature the quantity on the front of every pack. Now you can enjoy the taste and convenience of home grown fresh produce, while saving money by growing from seed.
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Good gardening
Fertilisers which is best?

alk through the fertiliser The remaining elements including section of your local garden iron, manganese, zinc, boron, copper, centre and you are likely to molybdenum, cobalt and nickel are only be confronted with a bewildering array of needed in very small quantities, hence the product labels. Words such as complete, name trace elements. organic, liquid, soluble and slow release all However, they are just as important and vie for your attention. if they are not readily available in the soil, If youre confused about making a choice, your plants will become ill thrifty and may it may be worth considering what is inside even die. Many gardeners prefer to use the various containers and the role played animal manures in the garden rather than Photo: Ingrid Balabanova | Dreamstime.com by the various nutrients. a manufactured product. Animal manures Your garden soil should contain around usually supply most of the nitrogen 16 essential elements or plant foods. The big three are nitrogen, needed but they usually lack adequate supplies of phosphorus and phosphorus and potassium. These are the major elements always potassium.This is often reflected in the garden when vegetables, found in a complete fertiliser. flowers and even fruit trees produce lush vigorous growth but few Calcium, magnesium and sulphur are also major elements but or no fruits or flowers. Poultry manure usually contains around two percent phosphorus the plants need for them is not as great and there are usually and 1.2 percent potassium. Cow manure has less than one percent reasonable reserves in most garden soils. of both. These levels are very low compared with the man-made fertilisers. Complete D has 3.4 percent phosphorus and almost eight percent potassium. Although the nutrient levels in animal manure are relatively low, they have an important redeeming factor. The organic material, that is the fibre-like matter that contains the nutrients, has a number of important properties. FRESH IDEAS IN OUTDOOR FURNITURE, WATER FEATURES, First it acts like blotting paper, absorbing and holding onto GARDEN DCOR, WALL ART & GIFTWARE large quantities of moisture in the topsoil, where the roots of the plants are operating. It also helps stick the very small soil particles together, forming chunky-like soil crumbs. These allow excess moisture to drain freely from the area and also allow air to circulate around the growing root tips. Probably a more important factor is the role the organic matter has in feeding the millions of soil micro organisms. Their activity changes elements in the animal manures into plant foods that can be absorbed by the plants roots. Obviously a fertiliser containing a combination of animal manure, with its organic matter, along with a balanced complete man-made fertiliser will give you the best of both worlds. However, if you rely completely on artificial fertilisers to feed your plants, it is important to make sure there are adequate supplies of organic matter in the topsoil as well. This will allow the micro organisms to operate effectively. Compost is an excellent source of organic material. Conversely, if you are using mainly animal manures to feed your plants, it may be worthwhile balancing the ration by providing NEW STORE LOCATION TRADING HOURS additional phosphorus in the form of superphosphate and 289-291 Cross Road Monday to Saturday potassium, by applying sulphate of potash. Clarence Gardens SA 5039 10am - 5pm Phone: (08) 8293 6990 Sunday An occasional application of a fertiliser containing trace elements www.adelaide.thecompletegarden.com.au 11am - 4pm is also worth considering.
Be inspired, discover new ideas
Good gardening
Fertiliser to feed or not to feed?
f your landscape comprises largely of trees and shrubs and they are suited to your garden soil, the answer is probably no. The proviso of course is that you allow the leaves and small branches that fall on the ground to remain there, where they can be broken down and returned to the soil. If on the other hand you regularly remove branches or rake up the leaves and consign them to the green recycling bin or compost heap, some form of fertilising is called for. This reinforces one of the most basic rules of feeding the garden replace what you take away. Removing plant material on a regular basis slowly depletes the soils natural reserves and the best way of replacing these is to use some form of slow acting fertiliser. Where trees and shrubs are concerned, mulching each spring with quality compost is all that is needed. What about fruit trees, vegetables and flowers? The answer again relates to the basic rule of replace what you remove. For example,
fruit trees, vegetables and flowering annuals are usually planted close together and so the competition for available nutrients in the soil is quite intense. In most cases, flowers, fruits or leaves are removed and after harvest, often the spent plants are also removed from the growing area. All these will provide a bigger harvest or better blooms over an extended period if the plants are stimulated into strong growth, particularly in the early stages of their development. Very broadly, fertilisers that contain high levels of nitrogen promote strong vigorous growth. Elements such as phosphorus stimulate root growth while potash encourages quality fruits and flowers. Fruit trees, rose bushes and other shrubs that are constantly cut or required to grow vigorously, like vegetables and flowers, all need to be regularly supplied with a fertiliser that is high in nitrogen as well as having reasonable levels of phosphorus and medium to high levels of potash.
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Fruit trees
Dwarf fruit trees make a splash

Dwarf fruit trees that are well grown have the potential to produce heavy crops every year.
warf fruit trees are capturing the hearts and minds of SA home gardeners. And why not? In the space normally occupied by a single large fruit tree, its possible to grow three dwarf trees. However, if you are prepared to grow your plants in a container and train them as an espalier or cordon, this number is easily doubled. This means if youre really keen, you could have a mini orchard in your own backyard. Because the concept of growing dwarf fruit trees at home is relatively new, finding a comprehensive list of what fruit varieties are available is not easy. SA Garden & Outdoor Living has checked with the States major fruit tree supplier, Balhannah Nurseries, and the following dwarf fruit tree varieties should be available from most SA garden centres this spring. Garden centres will happily place an order for you if your selection is not in stock. Dwarf apples Pinkabelle a dwarf Pink Lady apple, compact, spur bearing, (2 m x 1 m), heavy bearer, earlier harvest than standard pink. Partially self fertile, may benefit from Granny, Red Delicious, Gala or Red Fuji as pollinators. Leprechaun dwarf Granny Smith,
Dwarf peaches Valley RedTM green leaf, yellow flesh, freestone, (approx 1.5 m). Ripens late January. Sunset PeachTM deep red leaves, early ripening, white flesh, freestone, (1+m). Ripens December. Pixzee yellow flesh, freestone, (1.5 x 15 m) good flavour, ripens January. Dwarf nectarines Valley GoldTM green leaf, yellow flesh, freestone, (approx 1.5 m) Sunset NectarineTM burgundy leaves, early ripening, yellow flesh, freestone, (1+m). Nectazee yellow flesh, freestone, (1.5m) good sized fruit, excellent flavour. N.B. Peaches and nectarines do not need cross pollination. Mulberry Dwarf red Shahtoot (2-3 m). Long, red fruit. Raspberry flavour. Ripens late spring. Some dwarf fruit varieties are also available as multigrafts i.e. a peach and nectarine on the same tree.
More
Valley Red dwarf peach
(2-2.5 m), green fruit, crisp flesh. Pollinator needed (Pinkabelle). Starkspur Golden Delicious semi dwarfing, ( 2-3 m) needs pollinator i.e. Granny Smith or Red Delicious. Tas-Ag Red Delicious semi-dwarfing, (2-3 m) pollinators Granny Smith and Golden Delicious. Dwarf pear Tanzie first true dwarf pear, (1.5 m x 1.5 m). Self pollinating. Soft green fruits.
information: www.balhannahnurseries.com.au
Secrets of success
Container grown plants should be grown in a blend of 80 percent quality potting mix and 20 percent quality compost or soil improver. Feed the trees using a fourmonth slow release fertiliser in spring followed by a small quantity of potash boosted chicken manure pellets immediately after harvest Well grown trees will benefit from a liquid organic fertiliser (fish or blood and bone) applied monthly during spring and autumn Mulch the trees lightly in spring with a 1-2 cm (only) layer of pea straw pellets to retain moisture at top of the soil Protect stone fruit trees from peach leaf curl by spraying thoroughly with copper oxychloride just as the buds are beginning to burst open (pink bud) usually late August. Be prepared to respray after heavy rain.
Wildlife in the garden
I wonder who lives here

Urban zoologist, JAMES SMITH, reveals the incredible role trees play in providing a natural environment for our native fauna.
here is more to a tree than leaves and branches. Parrots, kookaburras, owls, possums, geckos and bats all rely on natural tree hollows for shelter, raising young, food and even water and these species are just a small fraction of the wildlife that utilises trees across the landscape. Historically, trees in urban and peri-urban settings have been managed as individual specimens. Invariably, they are maintained to provide amenity value such as aesthetics, shade or as wind breaks. Rarely are they managed for wildlife. Large, old trees with hollows and broken stumps are the ones that offer the greatest resources for wildlife. All too often, just as they become valuable to wildlife, they are declared unsafe and removed. While the safety of people and property is paramount, a new holistic approach to tree management is starting to question whether removal or excessive pruning is the answer. In certain situations, removal may be the only option. In many cases, however, the risks associated with a specific tree, can be mitigated using far less drastic measures. Reducing sections of a tree that are of structural concern as well as large scaffold limbs to habitat stubs, particularly near buildings, is the first priority. Creating a no go zone beneath the tree, delineated by mulching and understorey planting will further reduce the associated risks. The key benefits of such an approach are Amenity value of the tree is retained Cost of removal is drastically reduced Tree continues to provide valuable environmental services
Much of the habitat value is retained, supporting many wildlife species that would have been destroyed or displaced by removal Tree health may be improved by resident wildlife, increasing local fertility and reducing herbivorous insects. This no go zone approach to management also allows the tree to become part of a larger landscape, rather than an island.
While islands are important habitats in their own right, they are unable to support the biodiversity that exists in a connected landscape.
Wildlife in the garden
Planting a mixed understorey to improve the health of the tree builds vertical connectedness in the landscape and is aesthetically pleasing. However, large trees should be considered as part of a connected canopy across the landscape as this can dramatically increase the wildlife that is likely to be supported. At the end of the day, trees help define our landscape with the largest specimens often being the greatest contributors. Large trees enhance our streetscapes and gardens, they provide invaluable environmental services, but of greater importance, they provide refuge for many wildlife species to retain a foothold in an otherwise alien environment. It is time our large trees were given greater consideration. James Smith is an urban zoologist who runs fauNature, a wildlife agency providing products and services to attract Australian wildlife to backyard and community gardens. www.faunature.com.au
Australia has amongst the highest percentage of hollow dependant species of any country in the world.
Heynes
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South Australias oldest garden centre

Specialising in quality plants since 1869
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www.heyne.com.au/gardencentre
Extensive range of plants and garden products.
Spring garden guide

Spring herb planting guide
Herb Basil Chamomile Chives Coriander Garlic Lemongrass Mint Oregano Parsley Rosemary Sage Tarragon Thyme Waterwise Water use Okay Seed

Fertiliser
Most plants are bursting into new spring growth. If they havent been fed with fertiliser lately, they will soon run short of nutrients. An application of a balanced fertiliser containing nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus will benefit most plants.
Vegetable planting guide

Vegetable Beans dwarf Beetroot Broccoli Cabbage small hybrid Capsicum Carrots Cucumber Eggplant Garlic Lettuce hearting Lettuce non-hearting Melon Onions Peas Pumpkins Radish Rocket Silverbeet Sweetcorn Tomatoes Zucchini OK Excellent

Seedling
Delay
Seeds best

Container
Dist. apart cm 10 8-10 50 40-50 50 4-6 40-60 50-60 8-10 30 15-20 100 6-10 10-12 100 4-6 6-10 15-25 20-30 50-80 60
Soil improver
A quick way to improve soil health is to spread cow manure and blood and bone over the ground and dig it into the topsoil.
cloves
High
Annuals for spring, summer

Annual Delay Semi Shade Water

Black spot
If conditions remain showery during spring, roses will need protection from black spot, rust and powdery mildew. Look for a rose spray that controls all three problems.
Alyssum Amaranthus Begonias Celosia Chrysanthemum (Chalet) Cleome Coleus Coreopsis Cosmos Dahlia Dianthus Impatiens Lobelia Marigold Petunia Phlox Salvia Snapdragon Sunflower Verbena Vinca Wallflower Zinnia - Not suitable Just OK Excellent (drops) water wise high water use
Soursobs

Late season soursobs should be sprayed just before the flowers begin to open. Weed kill sprays containing glyphosate are very effective.
Pruning
As spring flowering shrubs lose their bloom, they also should be pruned lightly to encourage new growth for next years flowers. The list includes prunus, flowering almonds, cherries and other stone fruits, as well as wattles, thryptomene and other natives.
Tip prune
Evergreen shrubs that make strong growth early in spring should have their tips removed once the branches have produced three or four sets of leaves. This will encourage a more compact shape.
Lawns
Dont mow lawns when they are wet, particularly in spring when growth is very rapid. If the lawn becomes rank, resist the temptation to cut it low in the one operation. Severe cutting weakens the grasses and also makes them targets for various disease problems.
Jon Lambs seasonal checklist
PROTECTING FRUIT TREES Leaf curl

The only way to stop leaf curl disease in peaches and nectarines is to spray them with a fungicide such as copper oxychloride or Mancozeb as soon as the buds start to crack open. This spray will also help control other fungal diseases such as shot hole and brown rot. Plums and apricots should be sprayed with similar chemicals as soon as the buds show the first signs of pink.
Agapanthus
Gladiolus
Bulbs for summer colour

Name Agapanthus Canna Crinum Eucomis Gladiolus Hemerocallis Hippeastrum Kniphofia Sprekelia Valotta Zephranthes Planting Depth (Cm)* 5 5 # 10 10 10 # 10 # # 8 Water

Sun

Semi
Stone fruits
The recent wet weather has caused fungal problems. Stone fruit trees that missed their fungicide spray at bud burst should be protected as soon as possible to reduce problems, such as shot hole, freckle and brown rot. Use a fungicide such as Mancozeb or Thiram.
Spraying
Apple and pear trees may need protecting from fungal diseases such as black spot, particularly if you live in the Hills or areas that receive constant showers in early spring. Spray with copper oxychloride or Kocide as the buds are starting to crack open.
Fertiliser
All fruit trees should be fertilised in spring. Use a complete fertiliser containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potash. Use 3-4 kilograms on citrus, apples, pears and plums. Other fruit trees need 2-3 kilograms.
* top of bulb # neck just above ground (drops) water wise high water use
Pest watch
Pest Aphids Caterpillars Earwigs Psyllids Slugs and snails
1
Watch Out For Usually green or grey on tip growth and backs of leaves Many types. Eat holes in leaves Light brown with rear pinchers. Damages soft leaves and fruits Small sap sucking insects that cause severe leaf distortion Night feeders that eat soft fruits and leaves
Comment Squirt with water or spray with light oils or BugKill1 Non toxic sprays (BT, Success) very effective Reduce numbers by regular trapping Spray with BugKill1 when first leaves affected Reduce numbers by regular trapping
Contains low toxic Imidacloprid
Organic gardening
Organic products ready to go

Organics expert TIM MARSHALL explores the range of ready-made, inexpensive organic gardening products.
rganic growing used to be the domain of strictly do it yourself growers. We laboured away in the garden to make our own compost, compost tea, comfrey extracts and other brews for fertility, and we made botanical infusions or extracts such as garlic spray, tomato and rhubarb leaf teas for pest control, and chamomile tea to prevent damping off. A big benefit from the recent growth and acceptance of organic growing methods is the easy availability of ready to go organic products. We Many commercial organic products can now purchase ready to use biological pesticides can be applied through fine nozzles. such as Success and Dipel, botanical pesticides such Photo: Lightzoom | Dreamstime.com
as eucalyptus, chilli and garlic sprays and a range of other products such as iron chelate-based snail pellets, potassium soap and pest oil. We can also buy pheromones traps for many caterpillar pests such as codling moth, loaded with non-drying glue to capture the bugs, and other non-chemical gizmos such as sticky yellow traps for aphids and blue ones for thrips. It is not hard to find certified organic fertilisers such as seaweed extract, fish emulsion, pelletised manures, crushed mineral rock products and even complete fertilisers that are specially formulated for vegetables, lawns or flowers or other uses. Organic seed is readily available for the most common vegetable lines and some flowers, although the range of species and varieties may still be a little restricted. Organic compost and potting soils are also available from a number of manufacturers. It is still fun and cheap to make these products at home, but the ready to use option is there for busy gardeners, and offers the additional benefit of quality control. Twenty years ago, when the only option for garlic extract was to make it yourself, we used a primitive pump sprayer that was hard work, but could cope with a residue of garlic particles floating in the bucket. Commercial products are filtered and capable of being used through fine nozzles, for ease of use and accurate application. These products represent a new era in organic home gardening, and the range of products can be expected to continue to grow into the future. Many of the products mentioned above are not more expensive than non-organic options, and are just as effective. Gardeners often have a choice of more than a few products in each of these categories too, so why not give organics a go and benefit the environment, by choosing ready to use organic products. Remember to look for the certification mark on the label, as that is your guarantee that you are buying a genuine organically approved item. My latest book, The New Organic Gardener, will be available from early November. It celebrates the new scientific knowledge and availability of ready to use products that makes organic growing a smart, ecologically responsible and easy choice.
For 25 years, Tim Marshall has been at the forefront of the Australian organic industry, as an innovative grower, inspector, trainer and writer.
Good gardening
Having a ball with backyard topiary
ight now, attractive, round balls shaped from the glossy green leaves of the Lilly Pilly (Syzgium), Weeping Fig (Ficus benjamina) and English Box (Buxus sempervirens) top the popularity list for topiary shapes. However, South Australian gardeners are also becoming quite adventurous producing squares, pyramids, even hearts as a focus for their garden design. Most plants used for topiary are summer active but begin rapid growth during spring. This is the time to trim them back into shape. However, a word of advice. If it is the first time you have had a go at reshaping a topiary and the laterals are already very long and lanky, be prepared to follow your initial shaping in three to four weeks with a light trim. After all it is the final shape that counts. The tallest growth on any branch will always be the first to start growing and in most cases will produce more vigour than those below it. This is called apical dominance and helps explain why the branches at the top of a bush grow more vigorously than those below. When you remove four to ten centimetres of growth you also remove the top bud as well as three or four below it. The plant quickly responds by recognising the highest buds on each branch and within days these burst into growth and take over as the branch leaders. The other major influence in a topiary plants life is light. Here the principle is plants grow to the strongest light. With a topiary ball this is likely to be at the top. Here you have the dominant bud and the strongest light principles working together and this can result in extremely vigorous growth at the top, often at the expense of
the branches growing below. When this occurs you have to be prepared to remove far more growth from the top than the bottom if you are to maintain your original shape. Topiary plants placed in the shade where one side receives stronger light than the other, will also be confronted with this principle and if you are not careful you will end up with a lopsided shape. Where possible, topiary plants in the shade should be rotated 90 every month or so to maintain even growth all round. Most topiary plants begin growing vigorously as temperatures rise towards the end of September. Dont be in a hurry to remove the first flush of growth as the plants need time to store energy in their roots and branches to make further growth during the season. October is often a good early season trimming month as there should be strong but not excessive growth by then. If the plant is in good health it should respond by producing a second flush of growth before summer. Regular trimming every four to six weeks over summer is preferable to one or two big operations towards the end of the growing season. Dont forget your plants will also need feeding. If they are in a container use a slow release fertiliser according to the directions on the pack. Once the plants move into active growth they can be stimulated with a foliar or liquid fertiliser. Use one that contains a good balance of nitrogen, phosphorus and potash. The last feeding should be in mid autumn. Fertilising after this point will produce soft growth that may be affected by cold weather during winter.
Herbs
Its basil with a triple P

Plan, plant and pick. Get these right says MARIE COLLETT, and growing basil quickly becomes another trouble-free success story.
he best advice I have ever been given is never plant basil in soil that is too cold to sit on in your bare bottom. This has nothing to do with pot size or shape and all to do with soil temperature. This is critical. Never plant basil too early in spring. Minimum night temperatures should be at least 15C. While it is tempting to plant early, believe me, I have tried lots of ways to trick nature, ranging from the sublime to the ridiculous but to no avail. I will never forget the year we had mini greenhouse plastic bottles floating around the courtyard garden whilst the tomato and basil plants curled up and died. Planning your site Basil needs a frost free sunny position with good air circulation away from foot traffic and strong winds. The soil must be well drained. I find that a spot that is protected from the searing late afternoon sun is ideal. Alternatively, make sure the plants are watered early morning or late evening as the leaves will scorch if wet when the sun is hot. Pots and raised beds are both suitable. At this stage, the first question asked is what size pot? Personally, I prefer a minimum 200 mm diameter as it saves the panic of watering during extreme heat. A premium potting mix is essential in small pots and I would recommend one with some form of water saving additives. Mulching is always essential irrespective of where basil is planted. It is always a good idea to add mint and sage leaves to the mulch as they act as a slug repellent. Choose your varieties To my mind, there are three top performers.
Try basil mango dressing

This recipe has been a family favourite for years. We serve it with all sorts of salads including prawn, mixed shellfish, smoked chicken, turkey or ham, along with fresh green leaves, perhaps some avocado, snow peas, sliced red onion and radish. Basically, whatever is seasonal, fresh and preferably from the garden. At the end of the day, basil is the star. The recipe just wont work if the basil is not fresh and the mangoes really ripe. 500 g cup fresh basil leaves, lightly packed 1 medium mango, peeled and chopped 2 tablespoons lemon juice 60 ml (1/4 cup) oil Blend or process basil, mango and juice until smooth. Gradually add oil while motor is operating. Process until combined. This sauce will keep for three to four days in a sealed jar in the refrigerator.
vigorous and full of flavour and a must have in the kitchen garden. Thai Basil Siam Queen. The true string of basil used in Vietnamese and Thai cooking. This variety is more compact than Common Basil and has a milder flavour. Perennial Basil. This strain will tolerate a mild frost if well established. The flavour is not as strong as most basil varieties and the leaves are not glossy green. Planting and caring for basil Once the weather is warm enough, plant your basil into the prepared soil and water in with a liquid seaweed solution to encourage root growth. All basils are gross feeders and will respond well to a liquid feed (at the recommended rate) every four to six weeks. Pests and diseases Prevention is always better than cure. Insect attack is often caused by water stress, cold weather, poor light or poor drainage. If an insect attack occurs, I prefer to use Natrasoap which is available as a pre-mixed spray pack. A website worth visiting is www. zerowaste.sa.gov.au which has a fact sheet on safer alternatives for the garden. Picking basil Always pick above a leaf cluster, leaving enough foliage so the plant can continue to grow. Never trim back more than one third of the plant at a time. To encourage vigorous bushy growth, pinch out the flower heads as they develop throughout the growing cycle. Marie Collett is co-director at Falg Nurseries, SAs first registered sustainable plant nursery and SA growers for Herb Herbert herbs.
Common Basil, also referred to as Sweet Italian or Large Leaf Basil. This variety will grow to 60 cm, is
Available at:
Barrow & Bench Mitre 10 Heynes Garden Centre Virginia Garden Centre Banner Group Home Westbourne Park Glynde Mitre 10 Barossa Nursery Vadoulis Garden Centre Manns Mitre 10 Mt Barker Mitre 10 South Coast Mitre 10 Littlehampton Nursery
For more information visit www.yates.com.au
Lawns
Are you a lawn slave?

any house owners are in danger of becoming a lawn slave. Their attractive stand of green grass regrows almost as fast as it is cut down. Having restored the lawn after recent droughts and water restrictions, it is very easy to over-stimulate the grass by watering and fertilising too often. For most of the year, the lawn looks a picture but during spring and again in early autumn, the combination of warmth, food and water produces lush vigorous growth. The downside is a mountain of lawn clippings that are invariably despatched to the green waste bin. In reality, this is a waste of fertiliser as well as precious water. Take a good look at the colour and vigour of your lawn. If its dark green and you are removing 30 percent or more of the grass every time you mow, the stand is being over-stimulated. Hide the fertiliser bag as there are probably enough food reserves in the soil
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to get the lawn through summer and early autumn. Next, train your lawn to become more drought tolerant. Yes, it is possible and very easy. Forget about watering the lawn once a week (or every three or four days on sandy soil) regardless of whether the water is needed. Wait till the top few centimetres of soil is completely dry. This is easy to check with a garden trowel. At this stage, hold back on the water and check the blades of grass each day. Wait until around one-third have started to wilt (at the end of a day, they would have lost their turgid appearance) and then give the area a good soaking. Repeat this checking performance, but each time wait an extra day before watering. Deep roots Within a few weeks, the lawn will have developed a deeper, more extensive, root system that is capable of absorbing moisture from well below the previous root zone. By the end of summer, you should have extended the time between watering summer active grasses such as couch, buffalo and kikuyu from once a week to every 10-14 days and possibly longer. The big payoff comes when its time to mow the lawn. With less food and water available, the excess growth quickly decreases. At first there should be fewer clippings to remove and, as the season progresses, it should also be possible to extend the period between mowing. However, it is important not to let the lawn become rank in between mowing. Let the colour of the grass be your guide to fertilising. If the grass has a pale green appearance and grows poorly after watering, its time to fertilise. By far the most important times to feed the lawn are late spring and mid-autumn. Use a product that has a high potash content as well as adequate supplies of nitrogen and low levels of phosphorus (usually sold as Complete Lawn Food). An autumn application of a high potash lawn fertiliser is particularly important on summer active grasses as it gives them the ability to build up extra resistance to cold and helps prevent them losing their colour during winter.
91 Mt. Barker Road, Stirling. (Est.1964)
(08) 8339 1595

www.clevelandnursery.com.au
Lawns
Staying on top of weedy lawns
emoving weeds from the lawn grass is quite easy, providing you identify both the type of weeds you have and the kind of lawn you are growing. The key to identifying your weeds is to look at the leaves. They are either broad and often flat, such as capeweed and oxalis, or long thin and grass-like, such as paspalum and crab grass. Couch, buffalo, and kikuyu are all grasses. Lippia and dichondra are both broadleafed plants. Garden centres offer a wide range of selective herbicides designed to remove broadleafed weeds from grasses. Most of these contain the active ingredient, MCPA. Simply mix the chemical with water according to the directions and spot spray the weeds.
Healthy grass is the key

A well fed lawn that is watered and mown regularly will grow vigorously and is your best defence against a weedy lawn. Healthy lawn grass will grow more vigorously than the weeds and providing it is not cut too short, will compete against the weeds for space, light, plant nutrients and water.
Dont worry about the adjacent grasses, it wont hurt them. Within a few days, the weeds will wither and die. A number of broadleafed herbicide products also contain Dicamba. This is a similar selective chemical but is more active against some of the harder to control broadleafed weeds, particularly creeping oxalis. However, take particular care when using Dicamba on lawns where tree roots may have invaded as most tree roots are very sensitive to this chemical. Removing grassy weeds from a grass lawn is not so easy but it can be done. For example, paspalum is a perennial grass with broad grass-like leaves produced in coarse tufts. The recommended spray contains DSMA sold as paspalum and crab grass killer. Dont forget to read the label.
Lawns
Weed control in lawns and gardens - containing costs

PHILLIP SMOULT explains how to choose the right weed control products and save money while youre at it.
hairy leaves are often difficult electing the most Guide to selecting broadleafed weed chemicals to spray effectively. There are suitable herbicide to MCPA Dicamba DSMA 2-4-D Mecoprop Bromoxynil chemicals such as stickers that control weeds in lawns Bindi Eye ensure the herbicide you are and gardens can be difficult. Caltrop using is absorbed or spread over The trouble is there are so Capeweed the leaf. many competing products with Clovers A trap for some is to read the colourful labels and they dont Crabgrass label and observe the wetter always tell the whole story. Oxalis (Creeping and Sour sobs) recommended instruction and The first impulse may be to Dandelion then confuse this with a soil select a product premixed and Deadnettle wetter. These are not the same. ready to use. Stop and think Docks Chemical stickers are often about the cost to you and the Fennel referred to as non-ionic or environment. While ready to Fumitory organic adjuvants, spray use and premixed packs offer Geranium activator or wetting and convenience, they contain Horehound spreading agent. mostly water and have been Mustards Use a graduated measuring shipped from a warehouse Nut grass Paspalum cup or jug (used only for often in another state. Patersons Curse chemicals) and only mix A 750 ml bottle of ready-to(Salvation Jane) enough for immediate use herbicide typically contains Ragwort spraying. a few millilitres of chemical Sorrel Leaving unused mixed spray and more than 700 ml of water. Summer grass in the sprayer is not a safe With a little extra effort and Thistle option. Depending on the initial outlay for a low cost Three Corner Jack water supply, it can degrade hand sprayer, you can mix your Turnip Weed quickly and be less effective own and save. Also the storage Wild Artichoke Wild Turnip when next used. of 200 ml of concentrate takes To reduce the possibility of less room and in the case of a chemical contamination, fill spill, a smaller quantity to deal to buffalo grasses, contain Bromoxynil. the sprayer one-third with water and then with. When buying a herbicide, take this add the chemical. Broadleaf weeds in the lawn are a magazine with you and check the active Clean the measure by tipping the rinse frustration for gardeners and without ingredients on the labels. water into the sprayer and not down the naming all the available chemicals, the drain. Finally fill the sprayer with water to table covers both lawn and garden weeds. Tips and safety the desired level and use as soon as possible. Often broadleaf herbicides contain at least Many gardeners now produce fresh eggs Always read the label and take the two of the chemicals (referred to as active from their own backyard chooks. Check necessary precautions mentioned as this ingredients) on the list. This makes them the chemical label carefully as often grass is both for your safety and care of the more broad-spectrum. clippings from a sprayed lawn should not environment. Two examples are David Gray Crabgrass be fed to chooks or livestock. & Clover Killer which contains DSMA Spot spraying lawn weeds is the and MCPA while Campbells Tri Kombi Phillip Smoult provides specialist garden recommended method, full coverage is has Mecoprop, 2-4-D and Dicamba. products and advice to SAs garden industry wasteful. Some sprays, especially those more suited and gardening organisations. Broadleaf weeds with either waxy or
Lawns
Sub-surface drip irrigation is great for instant lawns
By STEFAN PALM
n years gone by when water was cheap and plentiful, giving the lawn a deep soak with the pop ups was order of the day, which of course kept things green. Times have changed - its no longer socially responsible to pour thousands of litres of water through poorly designed or managed sprinklers onto the lawn, where much is lost to evaporation, wind drift and run off. While you can still buy pop up sprinklers, you now have another choice i.e. to invest in a new, efficient and easy to use technology called Sub Surface Drip Irrigation. If youve been in the market for a new lawn or irrigation system, you may have heard people mention sub surface irrigation and wondered what it was or how it worked. Well, sub surface drip is a poly pipe with drippers already built into it, usually spread every 300-400 mm. Each sub surface dripper meters out an exact volume of water per hour (usually around two litres) and most of this is slowly taken up by the lawn. Sub surface drippers are installed about 100 mm under your lawn and deliver water straight to the root zone. The system can be installed in both an existing or a new lawn. Trials indicate they are far more efficient than poorly designed conventional sprinklers. There are many variations and options on offer from different manufacturers but my favourite is KISSS drip tube made by IWT. KISSS is a pressure compensating, anti-siphon drip pipe wrapped in a geo-fabric cloth. This cloth helps distribute the water more efficiently and also aids in reducing root intrusion into the drippers. The best time to install sub surface drip irrigation is before you lay your new lawn. In this situation, it can be pinned down and buried with 100 mm of top soil, then the lawn laid on top. Alternatively, it can be installed into an existing lawn which requires a little bit more work but still well worth the effort. For more detailed information on how to go about installing sub surface drip irrigation, talk to a lawn specialist or irrigation consultant. Stefan Palm is a lawn consultant with Munns & More
Sub surface drippers are installed about 100 mm under your lawn and deliver water straight to the root zone.
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Reminders
Dont mow lawns when they are wet, particularly in spring, as the new growth is easily damaged. If the lawn becomes rank, remove no more than a third of the growth. Hard cutting will damage the crown of the plants, encouraging fungal diseases. Let the grass grow to at least 2-3 cm. This helps shade our newly emerging weeds and ensures the grasses develop a long, strong root system. In many gardens, lawns will soon need regular watering. Light applications encourage shallow roots that dry out easily during hot weather. Most sprinklers should be allowed to operate for 20 to 40 minutes. This advice applies to pop-up sprinklers as well as those moved by hand.
Find them today at Mitre 10 stores & quality independant garden centres & nurseries across Adelaide.
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Join the vegetable growing revolution

Raised beds are putting the fun back into growing vegetables.
ome gardeners using raised beds are reporting healthier plants, higher yields and crops that are much easier to manage when compared to growing vegetables in traditional garden beds. So, whats so different about a raised vegetable garden? The simple fact of raising the soil 15-30 cm results in a dramatic improvement in soil drainage. In a standard garden bed, the small air spaces between the soil particles are continually filled with moisture, often for extended periods, every time it rains or the soil is watered. In a raised bed, surplus moisture quickly drains away and the spaces are refilled with air. When it comes to growing vegetables (and most other plants), air is the magic ingredient. In a raised bed, air circulating through the topsoil results in a healthier, more vigorous root system and more important, a dramatic increase in the population of soil microbes. This is particularly so when you add
organic matter to the soil. Soil microbes convert the fertilisers, animal manures and organic matter into a constant but steady supply of essential plant nutrients. Making your bed Raised beds can be made from a range of materials. Solid boards made from wood or recycled plastic are ideal, particularly if you only need to raise the bed 15-20 cm above the ground. These materials can be purchased as ready to assemble kits or you may care to custom make a bed to suit the size and shape you have in your garden. Beds with higher walls (40-60 cm high) are much easier on the back and these are generally made from lightweight galvanised or colorbond metal. Again, they come in a range of shapes and sizes. Modular stone or cement blocks are available from most landscape supply yards and offer another effective and very attractive alternative. Tips for starting your own raised vegetable garden bed: Vegetables are sun lovers. Choose the sunniest position possible.
Raised beds can be placed directly onto a hard surface such as courtyard pavers, bricks or a cement path. However, make provision for surplus moisture to drain freely. If possible, fill the beds with a raised bed soil mix. These are readily available from landscape supply yards. Potting mix should not be used by itself to grow vegetables in a raised bed as it dries out rapidly in summer. Alternate mixes include: One third each of potting mix, well made compost and composted soil improver 60 percent potting mix, 40 percent composted soil improver. 20 percent garden soil, 60 percent coarse washed sand, 20 percent compost. If you are preparing your own blend, make sure all materials are mixed thoroughly. Raised beds provide ideal conditions for sowing seeds. Alternatively, you may care to save time by starting your vegetables as seedlings. Once the plants are established, they should be mulched. Soft materials such as pea straw or lucerne mulch are ideal.
Vegetables
Starting from seed will save your budget
We stock a comprehensive range of quality trees and shrubs, a full range of fruit and nut trees including vegetable and ower seedlings. Specializing in Camellias and stocking many of the plants you will need to add color and structure to your garden all year round. We stock an interesting selection of practical gardening tools and unique gifts. Enjoy a browse in our established display gardens, relax and enjoy some of our delicious homemade food from the Topiary Caf. Isnt it time that you discovered the Horticulturists at Newmans Accredited Garden Centre? Jon, Dianne, Daniel & the Team
or anyone who really enjoys gardening, there is nothing more satisfying than growing at least some of your garden plants from seed. Apart from a wonderful sense of achievement, seeds open up the possibility of growing flowers and vegetables not normally available as seedlings in retail outlets. It also means you can grow rows and rows of your favourite flowers and vegetables for a fraction of the cost involved in buying seedlings. All garden centres carry an attractive range of popular seeds in packets and a planting guide to the range of vegetables and flowers that can be sown by seed through spring is available on pages 40 & 41. Vegetables made for garden beds When it comes to stimulating your seeds into life, you dont need a miracle, simply the right combination of warmth, temperature and air. As a general rule, plants that produce large seeds including cucumbers, zucchinis, beans, zinnias and nasturtium, grow readily when they are placed directly into the garden. These contain plant foods to get them through a range of growing conditions. However, make sure the planting area is weed free and the top 15-20 cm at least has been cultivated and raked so the surface is flat and smooth. As a guide, most heat loving summer and autumn maturing vegetables and flowers
need to be germinated in soil or a seed raising mix that ranges from 14 to 20C. This must be moist but not wet, with any excess moisture draining quickly to ensure plenty of air movement through the soil or mix.Vegetables grown from relatively small seeds that end up closely planted i.e. carrots, lettuce and spring onions, are best grown in rows with the seed spread finely along shallow trenches or drills. Another general guide bury the seed about twice its own diameter. Because the seed is placed fairly close to the surface, it only needs covering with a very light layer of fine soil. During spring, germination is likely to take place between 10 and 20 days after sowing. As the seed is very close to the surface, the top few centimetres of soil can dry out very readily. During very warm weather, you may have to spray the area very lightly with water each day but only until the plants are well established i.e. producing new sets of leaves. In most cases, more plants will germinate than are needed. Once the plants are well established, those not needed can be removed. This operation is called thinning. Extremely small seeds i.e. carrots and petunias contain little energy in reserve and it is much easier to control their germinating conditions in small containers.
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Vegetables
Seed growing containers
he key to good seed germination, particularly in a container, is to keep the potting mix moist but not wet. To achieve this, fill your containers with a quality seed raising mix or even better, buy a small block of seed raising coir (premium grade coconut coir blended specifically for seed raising). These materials retain moisture but allow large quantities of air movement in between the particles. Garden soil should not be used as it contains large root destroying micro organisms. When only a small number of plants are required, it is worth growing your plants in individual containers i.e. small 10 cm plastic pots. 500 g yoghurt containers with drainage holes added are suitable. However, specialist garden product companies such as Gardman, have produced a range of home garden propagation aids including simple windowsill propagators and seed raising trays complete with plastic glasshouse lids. Another easy method is to sow seeds directly into small fibre pots. These are purchased as small one centimetre high discs of dehydrated peat or coir. On soaking in water, they quickly expand to about 4 cm high. Fill the containers with seed raising mix that is moist (not wet) to within 1 cm of the container top. Settle the material so that it is firm but not compacted and the surface is level.
Sow two to three seeds in each container or tray cell and cover lightly with dry sifted mix. As a general rule, the covering material should be twice the depth of the seed. For very fine seed, this means a light dusting only. Press the seed firmly into the seed raising mix, but take care that the seeds dont stick to your fingers in the process. At this stage, cover the containers with plastic or a sheet of glass. Whatever you use, make sure air can circulate over the surface of the container. Place the containers in a protected position i.e. out of the sun and away from wind, where they receive reasonable light. After three or four days, check that the surface of the containers is still moist. At the first sign of drying, be prepared to water. Watering is best achieved by placing your seed bearing containers into a bowl of
water. The level of water in the bowl should not exceed three quarters of the height of the seed container. Leave the container in the bowl of water until you can see moisture starting to diffuse through the potting mix to the surface. Let the containers drain thoroughly before replacing their moisture retaining lids. Some seeds will germinate within a few days, others will take many weeks. This information is usually stated on the packet. Once individual plants have developed leaves and are showing obvious signs of healthy growth, they can be moved to a position where they receive very bright light, but for the first week or so, keep them out of direct sun. Seeds sown directly into small peat pots can be transferred straight into the garden or larger containers.
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Garden design
A courtyard by design
Squeezed for space? JON LAMB explains how a tiny courtyard can become a thriving townhouse garden.
ow do we bring our new courtyard to life? Thats the challenge. The courtyard is at the back of a new small townhouse, bounded by a tall brush fence with only the walls and roof of adjoining townhouses as a vista. The first move should be automatic. Walk into the courtyard during the day and look for the sun. If its a sunny courtyard, you can grow a wonderful range of flowering plants such as bougainvillea on the walls, along with roses and annuals in the ground or in containers. If most of the courtyard is in the shade, youre probably limited to green creepers such as Star Jasmine on the wall or maybe an espaliered form of Sasanqua camellia. In this case, the shrubs you choose will mainly comprise shade lovers such as correa, thryptomene, abelia, choisya or dwarf bamboo. Next consider the soil. Most plants require good drainage. If theres a wet spot you can: Improve the drainage Create a raised garden Establish a water feature At this stage, you should also consider the soil pH. Courtyard favourites, including camellias, gardenias and hydrangeas require acid soil and unfortunately, most soils in Adelaide are alkaline. Garden centres will usually test the soil for you. If the soil is above 7.5 and you intend to grow acid loving plants, plan to bring in a quantity of acid soil before you start. But dont even think about buying plant life at this stage. There are important basic design issues to consider. For instance, are there any existing sheds or outbuildings? Is there a back or side entrance? Think also at this stage about what you
An award winning courtyard - the results of a creative landscape designer bringing together their understanding of plants and materials with the needs of their clients.
intend to do in your courtyard and try and decide where these activities are going to happen. The easiest way to get through this task is to make a few sketches, roughly to scale. Mark in the back of the house. To this, add any permanent structures, along with
those you might be planning i.e. a potting shed, clothesline, playing area, entertaining or sitting area. Consider the logic traffic flow between these points and draw these in, not necessarily as straight lines. This will help you establish the main pathways.
Garden design
Now for some big decisions. What kind of garden do you want? A gardeners garden will require an area for shrubs, perennials and annuals. Entertainers and readers will need room to move or sit, with plenty of paved area while children or pets may require an area of lawn. If the courtyard is very small, ask whether a lawn is really necessary. A lawn has to be mown regardless of its size and you may be better off with a permanently paved area instead. For design balance, a good rule of thumb is one third hard or paved area and two thirds garden. Alternatively, the area allocated to plant life can occupy a third of the area with the remaining two thirds being paved. As most courtyards are small, the aim should be to create an illusion that the area is larger than it really is. The best way to achieve this is to soften and if possible, obscure part of the boundary with plants.
Alternatively, screen part of the walls with plants or trellis so that you cant see what lies beyond. At this stage, consider establishing a focal point. The eye is automatically attracted to the largest brightest object in the area. Statues, water features, a dominant feature plant, a carefully placed seat, even brightly coloured trellis on a wall can all be used to attract attention. However, to be effective, the focal point needs to be located at the end of a view or at the centre of a space or main boundary line. It should also be made to look as though it belongs. By now, you should be thinking whether you want to create a formal garden or one that is informal. This can be expressed in the shape and texture of the plants you choose. Those with small leaves and compact shapes emphasise the formal, while arching and weeping plants and those with round leaves, suggest informality. When selecting your plants, think about
their eventual height and width and try and landscape in layers. Place low groundcover plants in front of small, low, colourful, character plants. This will lift the eye upwards to the next layer of taller screening plants. Where space permits, a tall tree or two can be used to create the illusion of upper canopy. These comments provide a guide only and you may consider seeking more detailed information from a qualified landscaper. These services are available by the hour, the day or as a complete design project. For a list of qualified people in your area, contact LASA (Landscape Association of SA) ph 8210 5229. Garden SA Jon Lamb provides a guide to more than 200 plants that will thrive in SA conditions along with tips on planting, growing and keeping them alive in Garden SA, published by The Advertiser. Available from most newsagents.
Recycling
Multiple benefits from food
n the first six months of this year, a bright yellow OzHarvest truck has collected 28 tonnes of surplus food that has provided more than 94,000 meals to people doing it tough. The OzHarvest Adelaide initiative, which is supported by Zero Waste SA, combines community and environmental benefits, providing meals for families in need and environmental benefits by reducing the amount of organic matter in the waste stream. Food and other organic matter that goes into landfill as part of the general waste stream has the potential to generate methane, a potent greenhouse gas. Co-ordinator Hayley Everuss said the refrigerated truck collects surplus perishable food daily from more than 75 manufacturers, processors and restaurants across Adelaide and delivers it to more than 25 welfare agencies for distribution to the agencies clients. Distribution of the food is facilitated by Uniting Care Wesley Port Adelaide, with the meals provided by a network of welfare agencies. OzHarvest Adelaide began operation in January after 12 months planning and preparation. For more information, or to support OzHarvest Adelaide, phone 8440 2111.
ADELAIDES COMING UP ROSES AT WAYVILLE

In the Stirling Angas Hall Adelaide Showgrounds Saturday 29th & Sunday 30th October 2011 10am to 5pm Spectacular Rose Festival
Displays of roses & floral design Lectures and plant sales Crafts & gifts, refreshments
$3 entry for non-members Presented by The Rose Society of South Australia Inc.
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Vegetables
Home grown veggies : getting started is easy
f youre looking for a satisfying way to make the food budget last a little longer, try growing fresh vegetables at home. Tomatoes, lettuce, zucchini, carrots and other summer salad lines are all easy to grow. And there is certainly a great deal of satisfaction in watching seeds or seedlings you plant and nurture grow to maturity. The essential ingredient for growing vegetables at home is sunshine. The area you choose should receive full sun all day with a minimum requirement of six hours a day. Starting from seed offers the greatest cost savings as each one to two dollar packet contains a large number of potential plants. You have flexibility in establishing a few plants or sowing large quantities and there is also a much larger choice when it comes to selecting varieties. Seedlings, on the other hand, save you time, as the plants are already two to four weeks old when you buy them ready to plant in punnets. Buying your plants already established also eliminates the problems some gardeners experience when germinating seeds and encouraging the first few weeks growth. If you are growing vegetables for the first time, dont be too ambitious. The plants need to be checked regularly to make sure the crops are watered and fertilised on time and pests must be controlled before they cause major problems. It only take 10 to 15 minutes every two to three days to tend a small vegetable garden
and you will be surprised how much you can harvest from an area three metres wide and four metres long. Most weeds can be removed by chopping the top growth with a spade. However, couch and kikuyu grass will have to be controlled by spraying with a herbicide containing glyphosate. Before digging the area, spread a 3-5 cm layer of compost or soil improver and then add a complete garden fertiliser using half a cup to the square metre. If the ground is hard setting clay, add gypsum (using half a kilogram to the square metre) to help improve aeration
and drainage. For sandy soils, delete the gypsum and add additional organic soil conditioner. This will significantly improve the soils ability to retain water. Water the area well and a few days later, break any roughly dug clumps of soil using a three tine cultivator and then a rake. If you intend to sow seeds, the top few centimetres of soil need to be worked down to a fine seed bed, certainly finer than is necessary for establishing seedlings. Try and soak the planting area three to four days beforehand. This will provide moisture in the subsoil and help prevent the topsoil from drying out as the seeds or seedlings become established. During hot weather, it is also essential to provide a deep soak after the seeds or seedlings have been planted out. Some home gardeners use strips of old carpet or blanket (20-30 cm wide) to cover the sowing lines until the seed has germinated. This is very effective in preventing the topsoil from drying out during the vital germination stage. But make sure you check under the strips daily and remove them as soon as the first seedlings poke through the soil. Seedlings can be mulched with compost or pea straw after planting. It is also a good idea to soak the seedlings for 15 to 20 minutes before planting out. Avoid planting out seedlings before a hot spell. If temperatures rise, the seedlings should be shaded for two to three days.
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Vegetables
When performance beats price
ow much extra are you willing to pay for vegetable seedlings that produce much higher yielding crops, have resistance to disease, tolerance to heat and above all, taste much better? Were talking about plants selected specifically for home garden performance. For far too long, offering plants at the lowest possible price has been the dominant driver in deciding what type of seedlings will be sold to home gardeners. However, this policy is denying home gardeners access to an extensive range of superior plant breeding material available in Australia and internationally. Plant breeders currently supplying family run garden centres believe there is a large and rapidly growing number of experienced gardeners willing to pay a premium for plants with built in performance. At the top of this performance list is
However, just as important, is yield with plants now being selected for their ability to produce large quantities of quality produce over an extended period and at the same time, look decorative or attractive while they grow. Recognising high performers High performing plants cost more to produce than traditional open pollinated lines. As a result, you can expect fewer plants in a standard seedling punnet (usually four). Alternatively, these plants will be sold as established seedlings and in single containers. However, many gardeners now prefer to buy only a few plants of three or four different types of vegetables or herbs rather than having to buy a punnet with six or eight seedlings of the one type.
taste. Then comes safety. Plants that have an inbuilt resistance to insects and disease do not have to be constantly sprayed with toxic chemicals.
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Aeration Lung - diffusing air into the biomass - so no turning of the biomass is required - no manual intervention. Avoids anaerobic breakdown of the biomass and the harmful greenhouse gases that are associated with an anaerobic environment (landfill sites) Insulated Walls and Lid - the thermopilic heat generated during the aerobic breakdown of the organic material is retained within the Aerobin and temperatures within the biomass are more constant, for year round composting even at sub zero temperatures Aerobic composting of both Kitchen and Garden Waste Moisture recirculation system - helps to maintain moisture within the biomass, which keeps the culture of micro-organisms at optimum levels which again ensures faster, more effective composting
Natural condensation Organic waste Patented aeration lung
Leachate reservoir for the collection of the liquid nutrients displaced from your biomass materials- dilute what is collected and you have a wonderful natural fertilizer for free 2 Access Doors for ease of removal of the mature compost and gives you the flexibility in the positioning and location of your Aerobin Due to the high operating temperatures than can be achieved, most weeds, seeds and pathogens if present will be killed
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And why does this all matter? Because organic waste doesnt have to be sent off to landfill there is a better solution. Aerobin offers perhaps for the first time an enabling technology that supports the on-site containment of household organics and provides a quantifiable benefit to planet Earth and our environment. Simulate Composting on the website - See info & resources with the ingredients that you have to compost.
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Waterwise gardening
Are you using every drop?

JOHN ZWAR explains why making the most of all the rain that falls on your property is such a great idea.
Free water!
ree water! This sounds too good to be true, especially after years of drought and water restrictions. By this, I mean utilising every drop of rain that falls on your garden, as well as catching runoff from roof and other areas and using it on your garden. With some careful thought and planning, it may be possible to do just this and enhance the growth of plants and minimise the use of costly mains water. Of course, its not that simple as much of our rain falls in winter when the soil is already wet and we certainly do not want to cause flooding or waterlogging or even boggy areas in our gardens. Not all rain falls in winter though, and by making maximum use of rainwater from spring, summer and autumn showers our gardens can benefit very significantly. Rainfall runoff from hard surfaces can be harvested by good design and landscaping. The water can be either allowed to run directly onto lower lying planted areas or collected in storages (tanks) for later reuse. Rain water is almost pure, free of salts and of better quality than mains water, and its free! If we change our thinking from seeing roof and other rainfall runoff as a problem stormwater or waste water and consider it a valuable asset, and use it wisely on our properties to augment the mains supply, rather than run excess runoff water of the street stormwater drainage system, we will save money and possibly even have a better garden. A light rainfall of perhaps a few millimetres is of little use to plants, but by concentrating runoff from larger areas onto
Good plant selection is an easy way to create an attractive garden that does not need constant watering.
smaller planted areas, the volume of water supplied in the small area is equivalent to a larger rainfall event. This is especially useful when occasional showers fall during dry periods. Water
which soaks in deeply is of real value to deep rooted trees and excess may even recharge the aquifer. This fresh water has the added advantage of leaching accumulated salts out of
Waterwise gardening
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Deep soakings In winter when the soil may stay wet between rains it may be possible to direct excess runoff water away from garden beds adjacent to your home onto fruit trees or ornamental plantings further away, where it can soak in deeply without causing a bog or nuisance next to your house. These deep soakings can be of real value to established trees. Providing your soil is well drained and allows this water to soak in within a few hours of a heavy rain, you should not have a problem. Be aware though of causing problems for neighbours. It is illegal to direct your runoff water onto neighbouring properties. On heavy poorly drained soils there may be limitations to utilising all runoff water. To make the best use of runoff water in our gardens some ground shaping to create slight depressions to hold water and allow it to soak in after heavy rains is desirable, rather than allowing it to run to waste in street drains. Lawns and garden beds when being established can be developed as slight depressions below surrounding paths. This may be barely discernible, but these shallow catchments can hold water and allow it to soak in. In situations where these slight depressions or swales flood it may be necessary to have a stormwater outlet positioned to allow excess to run away once the depression fills, but many of our soils are well drained and this is not always necessary. John Zwar is Lecturer in Horticulture, TAFE SA, Urrbrae Campus.
and watch your garden grow
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the root zone of plants. Water harvesting reduces the need for supplementary watering by making more effective use of the natural rainfall and runoff. Water harvesting schemes vary in scale and nature depending on the size and slope of your property. The duration and intensity of rainfall and the capacity of the soil to accept on-site recharge must be taken into account. Water harvesting projects can be small such as a suburban front and back garden or much larger such as The Paddocks at Salisbury and some of the other major wetlands and water harvesting schemes in Adelaide suburbs. There may even be the opportunity to direct runoff from adjoining property or roads onto your garden as well. By careful design any risk of flooding and waterlogging can be minimised. If water harvesting was widely practised in home gardens and parklands in Adelaide, aquifers under the city would be replenished, a better option than running this stormwater out to sea, creating environmental problems there. We must see our runoff water as an asset, a valuable resource, and utilise it in gardens, parks and reserves wherever possible.
Waterwise gardening
Watering wisely
hen it comes to surviving hot weather, plants have a simple but very effective cooling system. In a nutshell, the plants roots absorb moisture from the soil. This is passed through the branches and pushed or transpired out through the leaves, providing a significant and life preserving drop in temperatures. When temperatures soar into the 40s, this drop in temperature is sufficient to prevent the leaves from burning to a crisp. Problems only arise when there is not enough moisture in the soil for the roots to absorb or the root system is damaged or stressed and the plants internal pumping system is not capable of working at maximum capacity. Ways to improve watering Soak the root zone, not the topsoil. The best way to water the garden is to apply water slowly over an extended period. Drip and micro irrigation systems are ideal. It may take a typical garden sprinkler 4560 minutes to apply enough water to soak well below the surface and completely wet the plants root zone. Most garden trees and shrubs have their roots concentrated 10-50 cm below the surface. Most of the moisture close to the surface evaporates before it can be used by the plants. Put the water where the roots are. Most plants have their greatest concentration of roots underneath the outer canopy, often referred to as the plants drip zone. This is the area that needs to be soaked every time you water. Watering the ground between trees and shrubs is often wasteful and invariably ends up stimulating weed growth that in turn competes with the plants for moisture. Water the garden as early as possible in the morning. Early in the morning is when temperatures are coolest and there is usually little wind. This is when trees and shrubs absorb and store large quantities of moisture to help get them through the day.
Watering at this time will keep the plants water pumps working at maximum capacity. Plants that wilt during the day through lack of water can be sprinkled with water to cool them down. Sprinkle, dont mist. Sprinklers that produce a fine mist create an illusion of coolness. But, on a hot windy day, 90 percent of the water can be lost through evaporation. Choose sprinklers that produce large drops that will not be easily blown in the wind. Keep the water pressure through the sprinklers as low as possible. High pressures increase the amount of water released as mist. The importance of mulch. A moist, cool, root zone holds the key to keeping trees and shrubs operating at maximum efficiency. Having soaked the root zone, the trick then is to keep the moisture where it is needed as long as possible. Some moisture is lost through drainage, particularly in sandy soils and reasonable
quantities can be absorbed by plants. However, the greatest losses are invariably caused through evaporation from the surface of the soil. In some gardens, this can be greater than 50 percent. The answer to this problem is simple cover the ground with mulch. Straw, bark, semi-composted garden materials will do the job. If you dont have enough material in your own garden, your local garden centre is sure to have supplies of pea or lucerne straw, either in bales or in compressed dehydrated pellets. Pellets spread on the ground and watered will absorb the moisture, swell, and cover the ground with an excellent organic mulch.
Open Gardens
Open Garden scheme tells some great stories

very garden is a story and every gardener has a story to tell. One of the best ways to hear these and learn more about how South Australians create, develop and nurture their gardens is to visit an Open Garden. Australias Open Garden Scheme has promoted the enjoyment, knowledge and benefits of gardening in Australia for almost 25 years and owners of these gardens are proud to share their stories. Regular garden enthusiasts are amazed by the diversity of ideas that are on display each year. Even gardens that open every year are forever changing. Gardeners have been particularly innovative in adapting to the ever changing climate, particularly through plant selection, introducing new irrigation technologies and developing garden beds for plants that have similar growing requirements. You will also find some of SAs wonderful historic gardens on occasions open their gates for people to explore these collections of rare and exotic plants and profile garden themes collected from around the world. The programs original name Australias Open Garden Scheme has been simplified to Open Gardens Australia. Gardens are open from 10 am to 4.30 pm and entry is $6, unless otherwise advised, with children free. For more information Open Gardens Australias and ABC Radio websites have upcoming gardens and special events together with directions and opening times. www.opengarden.org.au If you would like to nominate a spectacular garden, please contact the state coordinator, Kaylene Graham at sa@opengarden.org.au
SEPTEMBER 3-4 Avondale 10-11 Wirrapunga 17-18 Crest Alta Native Garden Roseneath Organics garden 18 Richwyn 24-25 Penfold garden Al-Ru Farm OCTOBER 1-2 Ivys garden Sheringa Tintagel Metzger garden Margies garden Tina and Jos garden 8-9 Pontifex garden Boats End 9 Richwyn 15-16 Bonney garden Thelma and Malcolms Australian Plant Garden Tickletank Baghurst garden 22-23 Bradley garden Blueseas Cottage Garden Hamilton House Serenity The Bloomn Cottage Garden 23 Anlaby Station 29-30 Sheridan garden (Silverwood) Wyndbourne Park Denella Downs Buccleuch Kenlie Brae Caralue Glen NOVEMBER 5-6 Rosebower Pitman garden Ashgrove Iris Garden Bratton garden Pomona Cottage Bangalow Springs Tipsy Hill 11 Secrets of Topiary 12-13 Frosty Flats The Chestnuts Camelot Garden Stroll 19-20 Beechwood Pleasant View 26-27 CaraBella Roseville
Avondale Rd, Rhynie. 7 Williams Rd, Aldgate. 11 Hawker Ave, Belair. Kangaroo Reef Rd, Mylor. 3 Linwood Ave, Aldgate. 44 Flaxman St, Port Lincoln. One Tree Hill Rd, One Tree Hill. 4 Dalton Ave, Aldgate. Greenhill Rd, Carey Gully. 29 Jeffrey St, Nairne (near Mount Barker). 35 Garrod Cres, Stirling. Robert Steele Rd , Seppeltsfield. Lot 103, Krieg Rd, Seppeltsfield. Lot 33 Mudge Rd, Yatala Vale. Adelaide Place, Currency Creek. 3 Linwood Ave, Aldgate. 48 Martindale Ave, Golden Grove. 81 Sixth Ave, St Peters. 24 Hill St, Mount Barker. Lot 10 Heysen Rd, Port Elliot. Glory Rd, Kangarilla. 17 Zephyr Tce , Port Willunga. 23 Commercial Rd, Strathalbyn. Old Bull Creek Rd, Strathalbyn. 4 Grey St, Strathalbyn. Anlaby Rd, Kapunda. 10 Homestead Cres, Skye. Mawson Rd, Forest Range. Lot 567 Summit Rd, Meadows. 28 Burnbank Way, Mount Barker. Lot 42 Sugarloaf Hill Rd, Mount McKenzie (near Angaston). Balumbah - Kinniard Road, Kimba. 12 Admella Crt, Craigmore. 9 Birt Ave, Salisbury Heights. 53 Albert St, Gumeracha. 301 Aldgate Valley Rd, Mylor. 55 Pomona Rd, Stirling. 152 Peters Creek Rd, Kangarilla. 309 Blewitt Springs Rd, Blewitt Springs. 27a Buxton St, North Adelaide. Cnr Mount Torrens Rd & Muellers Rd, Birdwood. 46 Waverley Ridge Rd, Crafers. 18 Olive Pde, Kadina. 36 Snows Rd, Stirling. Stonesford Rd, Nangkita. 5 March Crt, Clare. Lot 20, Wandilo Rd, Suttontown, Mount Gambier.
Native plants
STATE FLORA
Acacia Farinosa Grevillea Lavandulacea
Native myth busters
For SAs largest range of native plants in tubes and also advanced plants Belair Nursery Ph: 82787777 Located in Belair National Park Open 7 days Monday Friday 9am 5pm Weekends & public holidays 10am- 5pm
ow often have you heard someone say if its native, it will grow anywhere, natives dont need watering, if you want a maintenance free garden, plant natives? As basic garden guidelines, these statements are wrong. Some native plants are very adaptable and will grow in a wide range of soil and climatic conditions. Included in this group would be many of the bottlebrushes, westringias, melaleucas and correas. As gardeners, we accept without question that non native plants such as gardenias and camellias must be grown in well drained acid soil and receive protection from the heat and sun. Well, there are many Australian native plants that are just as specific in the requirements they need. Establishing native plants in the right kind of soil is extremely important. In selecting a plant, check to see whether it prefers sandy or clay soil and whether the pH should be acid or alkaline. Fortunately, many native plants will grow happily in soils ranging from slightly acid to slightly alkaline, providing the natural drainage is reasonable. Probably the biggest myth put forward about our Australian native plants is the notion that they will grow without additional water. Plants that grow naturally in low rainfall regions will usually survive quite well under Adelaide conditions. However, there
is a difference between survive and thrive. You will probably find that two or three deep soakings during summer will be enough to change a straggling specimen into a healthy attractive plant. On the other hand, too much water can be just as detrimental. In their enthusiasm for an instant garden, many people ply their plants with a weekly watering and marvel at the spectacular growth. But all too often, this growth is soft and sappy, breaking easily in the wind. The succulent growth is also very attractive to marauding insect pests. Incidentally, high rainfall plants made to grow in a low rainfall situation will quickly lose vigour as well as their resistance to insect pests and fungal diseases unless they are given supplementary watering. The essential message is to check out the plants natural rainfall requirements. If supplementary watering is needed, it should be applied as a slow, deep soaking. Applying too much fertiliser will have the same effect as too much water. Most native plants established in a garden situation will also respond to having their growing tips removed, particularly while they are young. Gardeners regularly remove flower heads from roses and hydrangeas to stimulate new growth. The same principle applies to most native plants. Trim them lightly after each flowering period and dont be afraid to cut back hard into branches that have gone bare.
Murray Bridge Nursery Ph: 85392105 Bremer Road Open Monday Friday 8am-4.30pm Sundays 10am 4pm
www.stateflora.com.au
Taste the seasons
Would you like your beetroot roasted, pickled or crispy?

Chef KANE POLLARD takes a look at some tasty uses for one of the seasons best vegetables.
pring is back, heralding an exciting season for gardeners and cooks alike. I like watching the garden come back to life after a few warm sunny days. It is exhilarating to say the least. Spring is the season for crisp greens like snow peas and sugar snaps. Green beans are also versatile and add an element of crunch to any dish. Omelettes are back on the breakfast menu as the chickens start laying and beetroots lift the tops of their bulbs out of the ground to let you know theyre ready.
beetroot (with mandolin if possible) Bring vinegar and sugar to boil in small saucepan Add thinly sliced beetroot and bring back to the boil Take off the heat and place in fridge, allowing to cool in the liquid Serve fresh in a salad or preserve in jars for future use. Crispy Serves 4. Takes 40 minutes to prepare and cook.
Roasted, pickled or crispy: a delightful spring treat
Beetroot - my favourite vegetable! Thinly sliced and pickled or roasted whole beetroot has an interesting and intense flavour. It is also one of the few ingredients that can add an earthy character to any course, including dessert. In fact, this is when beetroot is in its element. Drop a washed, halved beetroot or two into your base cream mix next time youre making panna cotta. It cuts through that sweet, creamy heaviness, holds hands with the vanilla and blows you away with that deep colour you can only describe as beetroot. Roasted Serves 4. Takes 1.5hrs to prepare and cook. Ingredients Four beetroots 50 ml vegetable oil 1 teaspoon salt
Method Cut tops off and wash beetroot Toss whole beetroot through oil and salt Place on tray and roast at 180C for about 1 hour and 15 mins (for medium size beetroot). If peeling, place hot beetroot in a bowl, cover and leave to steam for 20 minutes. If fresh, the skin should lift off and peel easily. Serve whole with roast dinner or blend with yoghurt and cumin for a delicious dip. Pickled Serves 4. Takes 20 minutes to prepare and cook. Ingredients Two beetroots cup sugar cup vinegar Method Cut roots off, wash and thinly slice
Ingredients Two beetroots 1 cup sugar 2 cups water Method Cut roots off, wash and thinly slice beetroot (with mandolin if possible) Bring water and sugar to light simmer in a pan Add thinly sliced beetroot to lightly simmering pan, cook until opaque Remove beetroot slices and place on absorbent paper, pat dry Cook for 30 minutes at 110C on a greaseproof-papered tray, remove from oven and leave to cool. They will come out a little soft but will crisp up once cool. Store chips in an airtight container. Add vanilla to your liquid and churn into sorbet. Kane Pollard is the chef at Newmans Nursery Topiary Caf at North East Road, Tea Tree Gully.
Spring
Gardening Solutions
Spring has arrived, so now is the time to start planting. From berries to tomatoes, lavender to natives, we have everything you need to get your Spring garden growing. A visit to your local Plants Plus Garden Centre makes Spring gardening easy. Plants Plus...where great ideas grow. www.plantsplus.com.au
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Fruit trees
SA - fantastic for fruits

Why not enjoy a new backyard adventure by growing fantastic fruits, says fruit and nut specialist CHRIS PERRY
hen it comes to fruit growing in SA, all but the tropicals (these come from hot, wet countries where temperatures never drop below 20C) are well worth a try. Our climate will support a very wide range of fruit species from apricots to avocadoes, cherries to cherimoya and mangoes to mandarins. The new custard apple Custard apple and the related cherimoya tree have been grown successfully for many years. These evergreen trees are genuinely easy to grow and quite tolerant of Adelaide conditions. I have seen very nice trees in coastal sands as well as typical heavy Adelaide clays where they perform equally well. They have no pest or disease problems and are not subject to bird attack. The fruit develop to a good size and quality, ripening between August and November. A typical tree will achieve a size between two and four metres high and wide. They also look very good. Until now, productivity has been limited by the need to hand pollinate although trees still produce a light crop without hand pollination. However, a newly released Australian variety Paxtons Prolific promises to change all this. It was discovered in Queensland about 10 years ago and has since become the mainstay of their custard apple industry. It sets very heavy crops of high quality fruit without hand pollination. The fruit are delicious. Citrus fill the gap One of the great benefits of citrus is that fruit production covers most of the year. A couple of mandarins, a lemon and an
Mandarins a great backyard fruit.
orange will provide fruit that can be picked every day. The health benefits of this regular consumption of fruit cannot be overstated. I believe that regular eating of fruit is the key that is missing in many a modern diet. Citrus is adaptable and hardy but not always easy to establish. The essence of good citrus gardening is soil preparation and watering. Citrus roots demand air to breathe. In tight clay soils you must provide spaces for air, water and roots to move. Achieve this by incorporating quite large amounts of coarse textured compost. Cheap potting mix is OK but composted pulverised pine bark is much better. Which lime to grow? If you use lime leaves to flavour Asian cooking, then you need the Kaffir lime.
This beautiful plant can easily be grown in a 40 cm pot. Prune to a small bush and harvest a leaf any night of the year. Fruiting limes can be used in cooking where acid juice is necessary. Tahitian lime has a good-sized seedless fruit, which is juicy and full of flavour. Fruit can be harvested from March to October. Tahitian lime will grow in the garden or in a pot. The West Indian lime is a small round fruit with intense flavour. It makes a very attractive tub specimen and is easy to grow. It is the tenderest of the limes and is better suited to pots than the garden. However, you can grow all three lime trees in pots by the back door. Then when you need a fruit or leaf for your fish, curry or rice on a black winter night, pop out the back and pick it.
Fruit trees
Mandarins good for the lunchbox Miho is one of the Japanese seedless mandarin varieties, that begins to ripen in May and holds till well into August. It peels very easily and tastes rich and sweet. Many trees fruit in the first year. The trees have a weeping habit and can easily be kept compact. They make brilliant pot specimens and are quite cold tolerant. The Imperial mandarin has that characteristic mandarin aroma and taste. It is a bigger more upright tree than Miho. The fruit are thin skinned, easily peeled and mostly seedless. Trees pollinated by nearby mandarins of other varieties may have a few seeds. The crop is ripe from June until September. White Sapote is easy to grow Luxuriant tropical foliage, ease of growth and delicious sweet fruit characterise this South American species. The fruits grow up to the size of a peach with smooth green
skin and sweet creamy flesh. Although capable of growing to six metres, they are easily restricted in size by regular pruning. Sapote is quite tough once established requiring just a weekly watering and fertilising once or twice a year. The best all-round variety is Ortego because it has nice fruit and self pollinates. Many of these trees are already growing successfully around South Australia. Mango can make it This species suits the adventurous gardener yearning for a taste of the tropics. There are a number of excellent bearing trees around Adelaide while their fruit is the equal to anything grown further north. However, dont bother if you live in a cooler part of the state or get significant frosts. Well established trees are remarkably drought hardy. I have a couple of old trees at McLaren Flat that survived the dry years without watering. Seek out the warmest spot in the garden
and prepare a really good soil. Plant when the weather is warming up from September until December. All varieties should be tested but Bowen and R2E2 have been successful in Adelaide gardens. Grow your own banana Banana plants are a common sight around the state and have no trouble doing well. But, you need the right variety to get good bunches. Go for a modern lady finger type called Goldfinger. This variety produces large bunches of small fruit that have a rich sweet flavour. You should plant in the warm months into a soil rich in organic matter. Each stem can produce only one bunch so remove it completely once the bunch is picked. Keep your banana patch in good order by removing crowded stems. Chris Perry, a former horticultural adviser, runs Perrys Fruit and Nut Nursery at McLaren Flat, SA.
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Grown locally, we offer plants that perform in seedlings, owering annuals, perennials and landscaping packs.
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Garden design
Garden design: the challenge of change

Garden design expert PAM GURNER-HALL looks at the factors which will shape the way we garden in the years ahead.
he availability of water, having time to garden, understanding plant survival and garden sustainability these are set to be key issues for home gardeners in the future. Vegetable gardens are popular and are here to stay. Fruit trees, while remaining a staple in the back garden, will also find a home in the front garden. At the same time, smaller, boutique varieties will help satisfy the confines of those with smaller spaces! The current trend towards suburban infill means there is often little choice in the size of a backyard, particularly in more inner areas of the city. Sadly, this is also true in new outer suburban developments which offer postage stamp sized blocks to build upon. Fortunately, there are exceptions and some council areas still allow blocks of 1,000 square metres or so, providing a choice in garden size. Within the next 12 months, more new houses will be built upwards on smaller blocks. While this will lessen the land footprint, we will see a trend towards more rooftop gardens in residential areas, especially those with new transport pod developments. On these rooftops we will see small containerised trees, both fruiting and exotic, small native shrubs to two metres or so, clipped and maintained, suitable for small bird habitat. Flowers will return to the garden on small perennial shrubs along with seed grown annuals planted in soil or in pots that are perfect for butterflies and small beneficial insects. Roses as well as all of our old favourites
As space for a garden is reduced, the trend for planting will be upwards.
will also feature in these gardens of the future. The appeal of an oasis style garden where on entering you leave the dry landscape behind, is still an important driver. Lush green plants such as palms, aralias, umbrella trees, clivea, strelitzia, syngoniums, monstera and grasses will remain popular. These represent a group of plants that grow well in dry shade. They are also quite suitable to many older residential areas there are well established micro-climates. This type of low, light planting requires little maintenance, apart from a little additional water for establishment. However, watch out for plants with
invasive root systems especially the ficus group. Colour trends will remain eclectic, driven by interior design and architecture. Reorganising your colour scheme will be easily achieved by changing your selection of flowering and coloured foliage plants. Behind these will be plants that provide a background of green. However, the smaller flowering and coloured foliage plants are often short lived and this will provide an opportunity to choose plants where the predominant colours can be changed with the season. Looking forward, the general consensus is that we will begin to develop residential community pods. These will include well positioned houses and other structures that make the most of the northern aspect. Expect to see properties with no fences, instead smaller screened spaces to keep pets in while creating individual privacy. Overall, expect to see a more communally shared garden space. We will also see BBQ areas shared by a number of residents, collective rainwater tanks, solar panels and natural rain garden areas where there is no irrigation on garden beds. Larger flower gardens and veggie gardens will continue to be a feature but residents will share the work and the rewards. Removing fences does not necessarily mean lack of privacy. You can have both, and I believe we will begin to see good examples of this within the next five years. Maybe it is time to start talking to your neighbours and perhaps plan together. Pam Gurner-Hall is a TAFE lecturer in garden design.
Native plants
Sturt Peas: careful on the water

Have you ever wondered why some gardeners grow magnificent Sturt Peas every year while others fail?
turt Peas with their brick red blooms are certainly eye-catching and once you are in the know, they really are quite easy to grow. When plants suddenly turn up their toes and die, the problem can usually be traced back to the way you water invariably too much as the Sturt Pea will not tolerate wet feet. Sturt Peas grow naturally in South Australias pastoral country where soils are quite deep and sandy. Rainfall in this area is very low (125-250 mm) leading to the very wrong conclusion that they are drought tolerant plants. In reality, they only grow after substantial rainfall and in low lying areas where the water can gather and provide a constant supply of moisture during the plants relatively short growing period. In the southern part of the state, conditions are both cooler and wetter, increasing the plants sensitivity to debilitating root diseases. The way around this problem is to grow your plants in free draining quality potting mix. This will allow you to water your plants regularly (in hot weather daily) but not end up with wet feet because the excess water cannot drain freely away from their roots. Containers filled with a quality potting mix provide ideal growing conditions. Established plants will need something that holds four to five litres (minimum). Use a six month slow release fertiliser when repotting small plants into larger
containers. Dont be afraid to use full strength liquid fertiliser. Avoid overfertilising plants as this is likely to produce excess growth at the expense of blooms. Hanging baskets provide ideal drainage conditions. The biggest challenge will be keeping the water up to the plants particularly when conditions are warm or windy. When it comes to watering, it is important to completely soak the plants root system. The potting mix should be kept moist at all times but make sure any excess moisture drains freely as a build-up in the lower regions of the root system will
quickly result in the development of root rots. New well established Sturt Pea plants ready to repot into larger containers or hanging baskets will be available from your local garden centre from mid spring until early summer. Once plants start flowering, they should provide non-stop colour until they stop growing late in autumn. A well grown Sturt Pea in full bloom will make a great gift at Christmas time particularly if you have repotted a healthy garden centre plant into an attractive container or hanging basket.
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Good gardening
Avoid the spring rush
pring on the calendar does not always coincide with spring in the garden. If the plants could talk, they would probably be saying dont rush, the ground is still cold and wet following winter and were not quite ready to grow. The essential message is to delay the planting of heat loving vegetables until the sun has had time to warm the ground. Meanwhile, why not start growing vegetables that thrive in the cold. Lettuce planted early in September should be ready for picking in 8-10 weeks. Beetroot, silverbeet and peas will follow a few weeks later and soon after, you could be harvesting cabbages, broccoli and carrots, particularly if you select from the range of new, early maturing varieties. All of these quick growing, cold tolerant vegetables, along with other slower growing lines such as onions, parsnips and potatoes can be sown from seed or planted as seedlings during early spring. Towards the end of September when the ground is a little warmer, you can consider planting out heat loving summer vegetables such as tomatoes, capsicum and eggfruit as seed or seedlings, while sowing seeds of beans, cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, melon and sweetcorn. To succeed, all you need is a sunny, well drained spot in the garden. Skim the topsoil free of weeds, dig to the depth of a spade, rake smooth and form Spring2011_halfpage_185x125_bleed.pdf 1 8/18/2011 10:57:09 AM the area into raised beds.
New dianthus with a dual purpose

Dianthus Passion is a stunning new perennial with deep red double flowers and a delightful spicy fragrance. Selected from a new series of compact free flowering plants, it is quite drought hardy once established. The blooms hold well when cut and the bushes repeat bloom if spent flowers are removed. Ideal for long lasting container display, mass planting or gap filling.
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Beyond today
By ANGELA BRENNAN
Sustainable landscapes for the future can be surprisingly simple.

ith newspapers howling carbon tax and the acidification of oceans, alongside pictures of smokestacks and floods, you could be forgiven for believing we have well and truly blown our contract with planet earth. And in some ways we have. However, it is surprisingly simple to restore the balance. Eighty kilometres south of Adelaide, on what was a denuded sheep and barley farm near the town of Victor Harbor, there is a housing development that has run counter to the expected dictates of all others. On the space that another company could convert to 1,500 house blocks, the designers of the futuristically named Beyond Today: Environmentally Sustainable Developments (ESD), have limited development to a sixth of this, with only 250 blocks. The principle behind this dramatic leap of faith is ecological sustainability. In ordinary language, it means fitting humans to the environment, rather than contorting the environment to fit unrealistic expectations. At Beyond, strangling power bills are a thing of the past as all houses are powered by solar energy and well insulated. While city dwellers look towards ominously prohibitive water rates, the landscapers for Beyond have designed and constructed a water efficient environment that includes constructed wetlands and lush gardens, combining the exotic with
indigenous and creating natural habitats in small pockets and along excisions specifically designed for this purpose. The design and implementation of this estate is visionary and courageous, raising the question Is this environmental dream economic madness? It would seem not. The result has been a runaway success as well as attracting an armful of awards with the most recent being the SA Landscape Associations Awards of Excellence with leading landscaper, Margit Wright from Adelaide Garden Design receiving the judges awards for top garden design in SA, best design over $100,000 as well as the most environmentally sustainable landscape. Already potential buyers have flooded in from local areas, the city, interstate and overseas and over 100 sites have been sold. Visitors coming to check out how Beyond has achieved this new living standard are left wondering why it has taken us so long for someone to come up with such simple but effective landscaping solutions. The answer is based on an uncomplicated principle of fitting round pegs into round holes. Innovative house designers, as well as the creative landscape team at Beyond, have accepted the fact that you cannot shift the orientation of the sun, or change the currents of wind and vagaries of rain. They have, however, demonstrated how it is possible to orient the garden to fit with these angles: cool for summer, warm for winter; with rain caught and conserved in
Outdoor living incorporates winter warmth and summer cooling.
garden water courses and tanks; cleverly designed plumbing used for household energy and gardens, and on a grander scale, wetlands. Because wind over water is cooling, they have created in the wetlands a microclimate of cooler air. In the homes, air is channelled into, up and out of the homes, with carefully manipulated ventilation, to suit the season. At Beyond, as in nature, every system enhances another. There is balance, and from balance comes peace. Homeowners at Beyond are guaranteed
Landscaping
at least one unobstructed view of open space parks, wetlands or ocean and a house and garden designed to ensure winter warmth and cooler summers dependant on little, if any, carbon generated energy. Included in the development are a childrens playground, community vegetable gardens, a retirement village and hectares of natural space and wetlands. Careful attention has been given to fencing. It is not surprising to find birds, frogs and a myriad of other small creatures have found their home at Beyond, reinforcing the fact that nature will arrive if invited. Not all who visit Beyond come to buy a house. Many arrive simply to observe the innovative designs incorporated into the landscape and wonder how maybe they can achieve similar results in their own garden. While some changes are not possible, for example, spinning the house around to enable north facing sun into the winter living areas, many of the house and garden features are quite realistic and worth discussing with an experienced landscape designer. At Beyond, the landscapers have planted species of deciduous trees, selected for their low water needs. These have been carefully positioned to provide summer shade in relaxing outdoor areas. The polished concrete of an outdoor breakfast area, using exposed aggregate for added textual effect, is cool and easily cleaned. In winter, when the trees are bare, the concrete absorbs heat that radiates into the living areas of both in- and outdoor rooms. Careful planning The harsh edges of the concrete are softened by a selection of tumbling native grasses and erect flax lilies, which also attract butterflies. A feathery background of Albany woolly bush and sturdier callistemon creates depth to this relatively narrow space. Even the careful choice of paint colour on an east-facing wall ensures the absorption of winter heat. The bright red is matched on the opposing wall by flags of red and green kangaroo paw. Beyond is situated only a few hundred metres from the beach. Again, the landscapers have chosen plants to suit the environment, predominantly Australian natives. Most are indigenous to the Victor Harbor environment, but others are exotic. In the words of Adelaide Garden Design landscaper, Margit Wright, the ideas used at Beyond are available to anyone keen enough to adopt a philosophy of sustainability. The end result will be a garden that struggles less and gives ever so much more for your effort. These words are echoed by Beyonds marketing manager, Adam Wright. With an open mind, a willingness to seek advice from experienced workers in the industry, and observing successful landscape designs, the home gardener can create a sustainable, tasteful and relaxing home environment. I simply believe we can make the environment work for us, if we work with not against it.
More
Harsh edges of concrete are softened by native grasses and flax lilies.
Wind over water creates a microclimate of cooler air.
information: www.beyondtoday.com.au Landscape Association of SA www.landscapesa.com.au
Adam Wright from Beyond believes with good design you can create a sustainable relaxing home environment.
Good gardening
Reminders
Ferns
New fronds should be emerging from the trunks of tree ferns. Dont remove old, tattered fronds until the new ones have completely unfurled as they will help provide protection for new growth. Established tree ferns should be fed with a cupful of blood and bone or organic fertiliser.
Roses
It is possible to extend the flowering period of roses quite considerably by removing spent blooms regularly. Cut stems long, this will keep the bushes in shape and stimulate new growth. Add a measuring cup of complete fertiliser to the soil if the bushes have not been fed since early September.
Citrus
As citrus trees mature, they often become scraggy, particularly near the centre of the tree. Spring is a good time to remove old and dead wood from the tree. Take the opportunity to thin out the number of branches. This will allow more light to penetrate and increase the trees cropping potential.
Milton Vadoulis brings his garden expertise to the small screen in a new TV series
Moving
If you intend to move small, evergreen shrubs this spring, hurry. It is important that the shrubs establish a strong new root system well before the onset of heatwave conditions.
New TV gardening program

Get Dirty with Milton. This is the catchy title for a new TV gardening program produced specifically for SA gardeners. Milton, of course, is Milton Vadoulis, chairperson of the Nursery and Garden Industry of SA and owner of Vadoulis Garden Centre in Gawler. The program is designed to make gardening fun with Miltons special branch of humour and sheer enthusiasm for getting dirty in the garden. The program contains heaps of good growing tips from trimming topiary to choosing the right pot for courtyard gardens to easy ways of controlling pests and garden problems. Where: Community TV 44 Adelaide When: 8 pm Wednesday nights
Scale insects
Scale insects and mealy bugs are capable of breeding rapidly on pot plants at this time of the year. Take plants outside and spray with pest oil.
Waterwise Communities continue to grow

A WaterWise Communities program to encourage South Australian householders, businesses and community groups to use water wisely is going from strength to strength. The program, launched in December 2009, is a joint initiative between the Department for Water, SA Water and the Local Government Association of South Australia. It aims to educate and encourage waterwise behaviour in order to conserve
our states most precious resource water. This WaterWise Communities initiative has so far recruited 3,064 householders, 115 businesses, 75 community groups and 47 of South Australias 68 local councils. (Figures correct as of 25 July 2011). Householders participating in the WaterWise Communities program are eligible for a free water-wise kit from their local council. The kit contains tips on how to use water wisely at home and in the garden; a four
minute shower timer with a personal watersaving plan; a fridge magnet with watersaving ideas; a bookmark; a gardening calendar promoting waterwise gardens and a letterbox sticker.
Garden alerts
Whats on
SEPTEMBER
SAs gardening calendar : compiled from the 891ABC gardening noticeboard

29
2-10 Royal Adelaide Show, Wayville Showgrounds. Horticultural displays in
The Bromeliad Society of SA Inc Bromeliad Extravaganza (9am-2pm), Maltese Hall, 6 Jeanes St, Beverley. 4pm), Burnside Community Centre, 401 Greenhill Rd, Tusmore.
Goyder Pavilion. Orchid Club of SA display and sales.

16-19 Mt Gambier Spring Show, Banner Hardware store, Mt Gambier, normal
29-30 The African Violet Society of SA Annual Show (Sat 1-5pm, Sun 10am30
shopping hours.
18-24 Gawler & Districts Orchid Club Spring Show, Hollywood Shopping
Spring Salvia Sale Day, Salvia Group of Herb Society of SA (8am12noon), Fullarton Park Community Centre, cnr Fullarton Rd and Fisher St. NOVEMBER
Centre, Winzor St, Salisbury Downs, normal shopping hours.

18-24 South Australian Orchidaceous Society Spring Show, Burnside
Shopping Village, Portrush Rd, Burnside, normal shopping hours.

24-25 Native Orchid Society of SA Show (Sat 10am-5pm, Sun 10am-4pm), St
5-6 6
Barossa Rose and Flower Show (Sat 12noon-5pm, Sun 10am-4pm), Angaston Town Hall, Angaston. Herb Day Sunday - Herb Society of SA (10am-4pm), Fullarton Park Community Centre, cnr Fullarton Rd and Fisher St. Plant Sale (11am-1pm), Mt Lofty Botanic Garden.
Bernadettes Church Hall, South Rd, St Marys. 25 Plant Sale, Mt Lofty Botanic Garden.
27
OCTOBER
1 8
Cottage Gardens Annual Display Day (10am-4pm), Enfield Community Centre, 540 Regency Rd, Enfield ABC Radio 891 Adelaide Car Park Caper (8am-12 noon), 85 North East Rd, Collinswood. The ABC car park is transformed into a giant garden market. Includes broadcast of 891 including Talkback Gardening with Jon Lamb.
Waite Arboretum regular walking tours Free guided walks of the Waite Arboretum are held on the first Sunday of every month from 11 am - 12.30 pm. Meet in front of Urrbrae House, Waite Campus (enter via Fullarton Rd). Botanic Gardens guided walks (walks last 1.5 hours) Adelaide Botanic Garden - leaves Schomburgk Pavilion, 10.30am daily. Mt Lofty Botanic Garden - leaves lower car park, Lampert Rd, Piccadilly, 10.30am every Thursday. Wittunga Botanic Garden - leaves car park Shepherds Hill Rd, Blackwood, Tuesdays 10.30am August to end Nov. Are you running a gardening event? For listing in SA Garden and Outdoor Living, contact Jon Lamb Communications jlcom@chariot.net.au Join Jon Lamb and Ashley Walsh for South Australias top rating talkback gardening program every Saturday morning 8.30 -10 am.
8-9
Australian Native Plant Society annual Spring Show and Plant Sales, Wayville Showgrounds. 15 SA Chrysanthemum and Floral Art Society Plant Sale (9am-4.30pm), 19 Aberfeldy Ave, Edwardstown.
14-20 Renmark Rose Festival. Full program: www.renmarkroses.com
15 16 22
State Flora 125th Birthday (10am-5pm), Belair National Park. New catalogue release. Waterwise at Wittunga Botanic Garden (10am-3pm). The South Australian Begonia Society Spring Show (10am-4pm), Cosy Nook, cnr Wellington and Victoria Streets, Klemzig. 4pm), cnr O.G. Rd and Turner St, Felixstow.
22-23 SA Geranium & Perlargonium Society Inc. Annual Spring Show (10am-
QUIZ TIME
DO YOU KNOW? (Answers at the bottom of the page)
Compiled by Ashley Walsh who presents the 891 ABC Adelaide Toughest Quiz in Town on weekends, Saturday 10.30 am.
3. Burnley Bounty and Ox Heart are varieties of what? 4. Which pine, thought to be extinct, was rediscovered in NSW in 1994? 5. What colour is the rose Kardinal?
1. Which vegetable is known in the USA as Rutabaga? 2. Who is the host of Gardening Australia on ABC1?
Dig through our past!

Searchable copies of all back issues of SA Garden & Outdoor Living are available online
www.gardenandoutdoorliving.com
78 GARDEN & OUTDOOR LIVING / SPRING 2011 1. Swede / 2. Stephen Ryan / 3. Tomato / 4. Wollemi / 5. Red
Quiz answers
TRADE DIRECTORY
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Landscape Association of SA members

www.landscapesa.com.au
A Room With A View Garden Design, Maylands, 8362 8442, 0407 676 080 Accent Landscapes, Upper Sturt, 8370 9057, 0416 051 682 Adelaide Garden Design, Inglewood, 8380 5204 Adelaide Innovative Landscaping, Glynde, 8165 0344, 0411 709 301 Airedale Landscapes, Crafers West, 8339 8118, 0438 817 588 Anston Paving Stones, Clayton, Vic, 1300 788 694, Ambleside Gardens, Verdun, 8388 4833, 0414639079 Baileys Fertilisers, Camden Park, 9439 1688, 0488 143 252 Barossa Quarries, Angaston, 8564 2227, 0418 839 366 Bellevue Lawn & Garden, Clovelly Park, 8277 9614, 0408 817 971 Beryl Bredon Landscape Design, Kensington, 8361 3702, 0411 694 215 Best Masonry Bricks and Pavers, Kent Town, 1300 076 468 Blue Gum Garden Design, Echunga, 8388 8076, 0401503085 Boral Industries, Ingle Farm Brown 2 Green Garden Design, Henley Beach, 0403 048 100 Caroline Dawes Gardens, Broadview, 8344 6873, 0403 011 866 Carolyn Corletto, Henley Beach South, 8355 2225, 0408 008 011 Cinco Gardens, Mount Barker, 8391 4912, 0403 688 261 City Of Burnside, Glenside, 8366 4252 City of Onkaparinga, Noarlunga Centre 8384 0164, 0423 710 14 Civil Train SA, Dry Creek, 8262 8066 Climate Change Landscape & Design, Flagstaff Hill, 8358 6598, 0433 777 465 Connolly, J, Beaumont, 0422 978 732 Customstone SA, Elizabeth South, 8252 9633, 0408 832 662 David Baptiste Garden Design, North Adelaide, 8267 6633, 0418 845 054 Dig It Landscapes, Thebarton, 8352 6589, 0402 798 571 Distinct Landscaping & Concreting, Campbelltown, 0402 292 307 Exterior Concepts, Highbury,8396 3333, 0412 533 003 Form Landscape Design, Stirling, 8339 7902, 0411 227 582 Garden Art Design, Everard Park, 8371 1522, 0412 147 482 Garden Culture, Mile End, 8234 5945, 0414 234 594 Garden Grove Supplies, Golden Grove, 8251 1111 Gardens at Night, Kent Town, 8362 9522, 0438 565 015 Gardens Australis, West Beach, 8353 0990, 0419 037 345 Gardens for Living, Seaton, 8353 6781, 0422 085 162 GLG Greenlife Group, Clarence Gardens, 8351 4400, 0413 155 981 Great Southern Landscape Supplies, Old Noarlunga, 8327 1800, 0431 612 194 Green Star Design Studio, Dulwich, 0424 148 422 Gullyscapes, Modbury Heights, 8263 2129, 0407 716 386 Gumleaf Gardens, Windsor Gardens, 82611600, 0402 845 928 Hailstone Landscaping, Crafers, 8339 4811, 0418 822 212 Harris & Noonan, North Plympton, 8294 2694, 0438 330 320 Henrietta Wighton Garden Design, Tusmore, 0438824815 Hicks Instant Turf, Para Hills West, 8258 2488 Jeffries, Rosewater East, 8368 3555 Kerrie Griffin-Moore Garden Design, Stirling, 8339 8518, 0417 820 715 Land Sculpture, Greenwith, 8380 5166, 0418 825 257 Landscape Construction Services, Largs North, 8249 9799, 0418 807 101 Landscape Environs, Norwood, 8363 6774, 0419 000 998 Landscape Techniques, Londsdale, 0402788133 Landscaping Ideas & Design Centre, Parkside, 0433324602 Le Capitain Fisheries, Hove, 0413 945 749, 0418 527 120 Metro Pavers, Hillbank, 8252 5873, 0418 847 603 Mr Bs Landscaping & Garden Care, Para Hills, 8281 1808, 0417 806 904 Ms Landscaping, Beverly, 8445 2310, 0415 350 548 Muirhead, A, North Brighton, 8358 1486, 0411 024 680 Munns Instant Lawn, Hove, 8298 0555 Nangare Design, Crafers, 8339 2284, 0411 267 841 Neighbour Labour New Landscapes, Kent Town, 8362 0129, 0419 627 372 Netafim Australia, North Adelaide, 8267 4222, 0407 501 527 New Eden Garden Design, Mitcham, 0408 836 886 Newtons Landscaping & Building Supplies, Newton, 8415 7706 Outside Ideas, Adelaide, 8359 2276, 0416 049 930 Paul Jackson Gardens, Stepney, 8265 4968, 0413 008 439 Peats Soils & Garden Supplies, Willunga, 8556 5295, 0419 310 441 Piccadilly Landscapes, Fullarton, 8364 3144, 0412 818 967 Plantmark, Dry Creek, 8258 5000, 0409 544 033 Pro Ag Consulting, Norwood, 8332 0199, 0417 925 824 Reece Irrigation, Adelaide, 8231 2888 Riverland Creative Gardens, Loxton, 8584 4883, 0417 859 232 Somerset Landscaping, Edwardstown, 8297 7295, 0418 830 906 Summit Projects & Construction, Stirling, 8390 0148, 0411 709 302 Susan Steer Garden Design, Summertown, 8390 3491, 0427 241 247 TAFE Horticultural Centre, Netherby, 8372 6800, 0412 199 377 Tookoo Landscape Design, Greenock, 8562 8365, 0403 834 420 Top Cat Landscaping Services, Mawson Lakes, 8260 5569, 0412 445 732 Visual Landscape Gardening, Surrey Downs, 8251 5239, 0417 863 159 Waterpro, Stepney, 8363 6050, 0407 546 660 Wax Design, Rose Park, 8463 0886, 0403 951 845 Wholesale Plants & Products, Dry Creek, 8262 7787, 0412 698 881 Wilson & Co Landscaping, Wingfield, 8359 1997, 0403 333 767 WJB Sustainable Landscapes, Roseworthy, 8524 8501, 0428 877 558 World of Pebble & Chips, Salisbury Down, 0410 124 942 Your Plant Source, Munno Para Downs, 0414 749 917

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SAs OWN GARDENING AND LANDSCAPING MAGAZINE

GARDEN & OUTDOOR LIVING

Tomatoes you can trust Colourful spring bloomers

Lock in the recent rains with Jeries

NOW available in bags for your convenience

Printed on FSC certified paper

GARDEN & OUTDOOR LIVING

Landscape Association of South Australia Inc.

Nursery & Garden Industry South Australia Inc

Boral Pavers & reTaINING Walls

Build something great

Heathstone Grande in Charcoal

Photo: Tatiana Yakovleva | Dreamstime.com

GARDEN & OUTDOOR LIVING / SPRING 2011 5

Tomatoes you can trust!

6 GARDEN & OUTDOOR LIVING / SPRING 2011

Grosse Lisse Improved (above) and Tomatoberry (opposite page)

Pink Pearl - high yielding, great taste from previous page

Large Fruit Truss

Simple crop protection to beat pests and diseases

Tomatoes before Christmas

Pink Pearl - early to mature

Renmarks 17th Rose Festival

14th - 23rd Oct 2011

For more information contact Secretary Miriam McLean 08 8586 4695

Eye-catching colour for spring

Petunia Bumble bee

Petunia Black Velvet

10 GARDEN & OUTDOOR LIVING / SPRING 2011

Laurentia Blue Star

Marigold French Flame

Vadoulis Garden Centre

huge range in store now!

Life beyond the green bin

SA Garden & Outdoor Living supporter:

GARDEN & OUTDOOR LIVING / SPRING 2011 13

Fruit trees - feast or famine

Summer pruning can deliver the goods

Whats new at your garden centre

Herb Stevia Sweetleaf

Watermelon seedless Red & Yellow

Loropetalum Plum Gorgeous

16 GARDEN & OUTDOOR LIVING / SPRING 2011

Espaliered Michelia Fairy Blush

Hydrangea Strawberries and Cream

Lobularia Snow Princess

GARDEN & OUTDOOR LIVING / SPRING 2011 17

Get to know your local landscape supply yard

SA Garden & Outdoor Living supporter:

Stormwater - a vital part of the mix

SA Garden & Outdoor Living supporter:

Let there be light

The Cutting Edge

Heres the best of the worst!

The Cutting Edge

burst int life

Searles Flourish Range

visit our website

A FAMILY BUSINESS SINCE 1977

Pinkbelle Dwarf Pink Lady Apple

Valley GoldTM Dwarf Nectarine

Valley RedTM Dwarf Peach