Professional Documents
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Objectives
Understand what is meant by oneoff, batch, and mass production. Understand line production and subassembly systems Consider cost implications when selecting method of production
One-off
One-off production is designing and making a single textile product to a client's specification. The garment design is developed from a basic block pattern, with a prototype made from inexpensive fabric to test the drape, fit and assembly of the garment.
One-off
Haute-couture fashion: models at London Fashion Week
Task
Look in magazines and cut out pictures to make a collection of designer outfits from catwalk shows. Why are these garments made by one-off production? How much do these clothes and accessories cost to buy?
Batch Production
Batch production is manufacturing set quantities of a textile product to order. The prototype is made up in a medium size from the intended fabric. The prototype is checked for quality of design and manufacture, then put into production in a range of standard sizes. The quantity of products can vary from a set of four cushions made by a designer-maker, to 20,000 jumpers made for a department store.
Mass production
Mass production is industrial-scale manufacture of large quantities of products, usually on a production line. Mass production is suitable for products that seldom need to be redesigned and are needed in very large numbers, eg socks or jeans.
Production system
Product market
One-off
Very high-level skills in design and manufacture; high-cost materials; high labour costs
One-off
Fashion designers such as John Galliano design Haute Couture garments for individual clients
Very high-level skills in design and manufacture; high-cost material and labour costs
Batch production
Garments are designed to fit a range of standard sizes and shapes. Garment patterns are developed from a basic block using CAD. A sample garment is made up in a medium size, from the intended fabric. Once the design has been approved it is put into production in a range of standard sizes. They are sold through up-market retailers.
High-level design, pattern making and sampling skills; cost-effective materials and lower manufacturing costs
Mass production
Similar production methods to batch production: garments produced in limited range of sizes; standardised production methods are used to produce a wide range of styles. Most fashion products are batch produced in large batches eg 20,000. Some classic products like jeans are mass produced for a world market.
High-level design, pattern making and sampling skills; cost-effective materials; products often made overseas where labour costs are low
Summary
Hand-crafted, exclusive products are made individually using the one-off production system. For a fixed number of identical products, batch production is cost effective. Mass production usually includes production lines Subassemblies are made separately before they are joined to the main product.
The range of hand tools, equipment and machines used in textile production.
Plotter/Cutting machines Computers are used for producing Lay plans which work out exactly where to place each pattern piece to best use the fabric. Remember wasted fabric is wasted money! A plotter would mark out the pattern pieces and any construction instructions such as darts. A CAM cutting machine automatically cuts out the pieces following the lay plan. It cuts the fabric quickly and accurately using vertical knives, high pressure water jets or lasers. Many layers can be cut out at once which means less labour costs and more efficiency A Band saw can be used by a skilled operator. It is used for cutting through multiple layers of fabric quickly. Metal chain mail gloves are worn to protect the workers hands.
Objectives
Have an understanding of the variety of machines used in textile manufacture Appreciate the difference between sewing and the embroidery machines.
Sewing machines.
These range from simple machines to ones that do specialist tasks such as buttonholes, overlocking fabric edges or CAD CAM machines that stitch out motifs Lockstitch Used for sewing seams (Straight stitch) Over lockerStitches, cuts and finishes seams in one process Seam coverUsed for sewing belt loops Automatic buttonholeUsed for sewing buttonholes CAD/CAMMultihead embroidery machine
Industrial Machinery
Below are some of the main types of machines used in the manufacture of textile products.
Machinery can be operated by hand, be semi-automatic fully automatic and can also be computer controlled
Knitting machine
Band saw
Objectives
Have an understanding of the variety of machines used in textile manufacture Appreciate the difference between sewing and the embroidery machines.
Industrial sewing machines In industry a range of different sewing machines are used for stitching seams, embroidery, buttonholes etc. The main ones are listed in the table below:
Industrial machine Lockstitch Lockstitch Overlocker Seamcover Method of control Electric Electric Electric Electric Joining process Lockstitch Zigzag stitch Stitches, cuts and finishes seams in one process Flat seam Joins knitted fabric stitch by stitch Lockstitch; chainstitch Lockstitch; zigzag; embroidery Used for Straight seams Stretchy knits; finishing edges Non-fraying seams; stretchy seams Knitted hems; belt loops on jeans
Linking
Automatic buttonhole Computer Numerically Controlled (CNC)
Electronic; CAM
Electronic; CAM Computer software; Electronic; CAM
Knitted seams
Buttonholes Making collars; labels; logos; embroidery
Summary
Machines speed up the process of making and can be used to ensure high-quality products Many machines have fast moving parts and sharp needles. Great care must be taken to follow safety rules to avoid injury while operating such a machine. Machinery can be operated by hand, semi-automatic or fully automatic and can also be computer controlled.
CAD
USING COMPUTERS TO DESIGN AND PRESENT Computers are used by designers for: Writing documents and creating display boards, including artwork, text, spreadsheets, graphs and tables Putting together slide show presentations Digital photography and video making Designing and sampling Supplementing drawing and colouring with use of specialist fashion software, e.g. Speed Step.
Objectives
Understand the benefits of using computers in manufacturing. Appreciate the link between CAD & CAM
These include: Microsoft Office - Word, Excel, PowerPoint, Publisher Drawing packages Paint, Adobe illustrator, CorelDraw Image editing Photoshop Specialist Fashion software, e.g. Speed Step
The designer can present ideas to the client on screen or printed on to presentation boards, or via e-mail, and then quickly modify them according to client feedback. Promotional material developed from design work can be adapted for use on websites, business stationery and advertising and marketing materials, such as point of sale literature and display posters. Computers make this development of related design work a quicker process
Objectives
Understand the benefits of using computers in manufacturing. Appreciate the link between CAD & CAM
Summary
Computers can be used to increase efficiency and accuracy in manufacturing Costs can be reduced if efficiency is increased Health and safety of workers can be monitored and working conditions made safer using computers Flexibility is increased as changes in production can be made more rapidly
CNC
Computer-numerical control Computer-aided manufacturing involves the use of CNC machines for printing, cutting, joining and many other textiles processes. CNC-automated machines can repeat processes with accuracy and reliability, and are easily reprogrammed when changes to design or production run are needed. The graphic shows some of the uses of CNC machines.
CIM
Computer-integrated manufacturing (CIM) systems integrate or link CAD and CAM systems. These combined systems link design development, production planning and manufacturing systems together. Companies that use CIM are able to design a product in one country and manufacture it overseas where labour costs are lower.
Exam Tips
Make sure that you understand the different roles of clients, designers, manufacturers and users. You need to know what a production plan and work schedule are - and the difference between them. Make sure that you know the difference between one-off, batch and mass production.
Production Plan
Production planning Production plans and work schedules are important planning tools in batch and mass production. The production plan should set out information about all the stages of production, so that every product is made to the same quality. See example below:
Each production plan should include the following stages: The preparation stage details the amount of materials to buy-in, preparation of garment patterns, templates and lay plans. The processing stage details the fabric spreading, cutting, labelling and bundling of the fabric pieces. The assembly stage contains instructions for fusing, joining and pressing the separate product parts. The finishing stage gives instructions for decorative/functional finishing and final pressing. The packaging stage explains how to label, hang, fold, and cover the product ready for transport to the retailer.
Some manufacturers use computer software to handle the detailed information in the production plan. Any changes made to the plan are quickly available to each member of the production team
Work schedule
A work schedule sets out instructions about the order of assembly, the stitch type, the processes to be used, the time each process will take and the seam allowance. See the example of a work schedule below:
Lockstitch Lockstitch
Stitch pockets Stitch pockets to front Join back seam Insert zip Join side seams
3 4 5
Lockstitch
2.50
0.60cm
1.50
0.20cm
N/A
12.50
N/A