Warsaw

N71
Poland - 5z (w tym 8% VAT)

UK - 5
EU (excl. Poland & UK) - 3
warsaw.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1641-5264
Hotels Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
WARSAW
October - November 2012
Elektoralna
and Chodna
A perfect fall
walking tour
Witold Pilecki
An Auschwitz volunteer
All Saints Day
Experience one of the
countrys treasured
traditions
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4
Warsaw In Your Pocket
CONTENTS
Arrival & Transport 12
The Basics 17
Culture & Events 20
Where to stay 28
Dining 36
Cafs 62
Nightlife 64
History 76
Sightseeing
What to see 79
Palace of Culture and Science 93
Old Town 94
Praga 96
Warsaw Uprising 98
Jewish Warsaw 102
Treblinka 105
azienki 106
Wilanw 108
Chopin 111
Copernicus Science Centre 114
Leisure 116
d 120
Directory
Shopping 122
Directory 128
Maps & Index
City centre map 131
City map 132
Country map 134
Street index 136
Listings Index 137
Feature Index 138
Contents
They arent the most glamourous streets in the city, but
Elektoralna and Chlodna are home to plenty of the citys
best (and often strangest) stories, landmarks and legends.
We guide you step by step on a perfect fall walking tour
through the heart of the city in our feature on page 8.
Volunteering to go to Auschwitz? The idea sounds crazy,
but Polish soldier Witold Pilecki did just that, and spent
nearly three years reporting on the atrocities happening
inside. His story takes a sad twist during the Communist
era, and today the city is searching for his burial location in
order to properly honour this hero. Find out more about his
extraordinary life on page 31.
6
Warsaw In Your Pocket
FOREWORD
Copyright notice
Text, maps and photos copyright WIYP
Sp. z o.o. 1999-2012. Maps copyright
cartographer. All rights reserved. No part
of this publication may be reproduced
in any form, except brief extracts for
the purpose of review, without written
permission from the publisher and
copyright owner. The brand name In Your
Pocket is used under license from UAB
In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius,
Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
Maps
Agencja Reklamowa POD ANIOEM
Ul. Poselska 20, 31-002 Krakw
agencja@pod-aniolem.com.pl
Its officially fall in Warsaw, which is truly a great time
to explore the city. But while the tourist buses and
roving packs hit up the well-trod streets of Krakowskie
Przedmiescie and Nowy Swiat, were directing In Your
Pocketeers to the hidden gems of Elektoralna and
Chlodna for the ideal fall walking tour. Stories on these
streets range from that of the ill-fated priest Jerzy
Popieuszko to the site of the famous bridge that once
connected the small and large ghettoes during World
War II. Happy, sad, and straight up bizarre, these tales
will make any visitor feel like theyre experiencing an
often-unseen part of this historical city.
This is also a great time to partake in one of Polands
most interesting and sombre holidays: All Saints
Day. While most of you use November 1 to recover
from a post-Halloween hangover, the Poles dedicate
this day to fondly remembering the dead by visiting
their graves and adorning them with all manner of
candles and flowers. A trip to one of the citys many
graveyards is highly recommended, especially at night,
where visitors will delight in this serious (and seriously
impressive) occasion.
Despite all the history and tradition in this city Warsaw
is quick to adopt new trends, and one of our favourites
is the explosion of new burger joints that have spread
across the city. If youre a fan of a two-handed meal
then youre visiting at the right time, with popular spots
like Barn Burger and Lokal.Bistro winning accolades
for their massive patties and leaving customers
with a long (but worthwhile) wait for a seat. Should
temperatures take a dip while youre in town then seek
out the awful-sounding (but wonderful tasting) hot
beer. Poles delight in keeping warm via a piping pint
packed with spices like clove, cinnamon and other
mulling spices that will warm you to the core.
As always we sincerely hope you enjoy your time
in Warsaw and the guide we have put together.
Be sure to like us on Facebook (facebook.com/
warsawinyourpocket) and follow us on Twitter (Twitter.
com/warsawiyp) for all the latest on whats happening
in the city, and you can leave comments about all
the venues listed here (and more) on our website at
inyourpocket.com/Poland/warsaw. And of course
we welcome your direct feedback at editor_poland@
inyourpocket.com
The number of cities now covered by In Your Pocket in print,
online and via mobile application has climbed over 70 in some
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The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is comple-
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sponsored listings. In Your Pocket writers do not accept
free meals, sexual favours, first-born chil dren or other
bribes in return for favourable reviews and reserve the right
to say whatever the hell they damn well feel like about the
venues listed in this guide, regardless of disagreement from
advertisers, establishment owners or the general public.
The editor has made every effort to ensure the accuracy of
the information in this guide at the time of going to press
and assumes no responsibility for unforeseen changes,
errors, poor service, disappointing food or terrible hangovers.
Europe In Your Pocket
Editorial
Editor Monica Wright, MGW
Research Manager Anna Hojan
Researchers Aneta Roszak, Maria Rulaff
Events Klaudia Mampe, Vaughan Elliott
Design Tom Haman
Photography In Your Pocket unless
otherwise stated
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8
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
ELEKTORALNA & CHODNA
Tast e pol i sh t r adi t i on
U Fukiera, Warszawa, Rynek Starego Miasta 27,
tel. 022 831 10 13, tel./fax 022 831 58 08
www.ufukiera.pl
; O L V S K L Z [ Y L Z [ H \ Y H U [ P U > H Y Z H ^
asta 27,
8
an i nvi t at i on f r om
The major sights in Warsaw need little introduction to the
visitor who has already chalked up a few days sightsee-
ing in the city. But theres more to the city than cobbled
squares and palaces on lakes as a little detour just to the
north west of the central station will reveal. Weve decided
to give the lesser known and quite frankly in places, pig
ugly, streets of Chodna and Elektoralna a look to discover
some sights rarely highlighted by guided tours but which
are fascinating none the less. The following sights have
been presented in an order to allow you to visit each in
order as you pass from west to east.
This walking tour starts at the western end of ul. Chodna
and brings you back towards the centre. Trams stop at the
nearby junction with ul. Towarowa (D-2) and one sugges-
tion might be to walk back to the centre via this route after
having visited the nearby Warsaw Uprising Museum.
Warsaw Trade Tower D-2, ul. Chodna 51. The first
point of call on your tour is at one of Warsaws unavoidable
landmarks - the Warsaw Trade Tower. Completed in 1999
this 208-metre skyscraper stands out as a masterpiece in
a city not short of latter-day architectural marvels. Tower-
ing over all its immediate neighbours the Trade Tower was
originally christened the Daewoo Centre, before financial
disaster saw it sold off to the highest bidder (US$100 mil-
lion) in what was then the biggest purchase transaction in
Polish real estate history. Characterized by its cylindrical
shape and odd angles its a breathtaking piece of work,
and equally impressive from the inside. The interior design
was apparently inspired by art deco Chicago, while hi-tech
gadgetry includes some of the quickest elevators in Europe
- 35 seconds to the 41st floor.
Meridian E-2, ul. Chodna 48. Onwards down the street
and youll be quick to note that the tower stands out like a
shark in a paddling pool. Surrounding it is practically noth-
ing, just a stretch of grubby looking car service centres. Its
only as you reach the intersection with ul. Wronia that signs
of regeneration become apparent. Straddling the corner is
the Meridian apartment block, a flashy gated community,
located on the site of a former engineering factory. This is
planned to be the first of many aimed at regenerating this
quarter of town. Featuring a two-level underground car park,
Japanese garden and marble lobby you couldnt wish for a
sharper contrast to what is found opposite.
Chodna 25 E-2, ul. elazna 75a (entrance from ul.
Chodna). Facing the Meridian apartment block is Chodna at
its worst - a darkened pre-war tenement flanked by low-level
prefabricated buildings selling hammers, spanners, mops
and tyres. Then, lined up like tin soldiers, theres enough
bars to put your tour in seriously danger of being terminated
earlier than expected.
Things improve as you reach the junction with ul. elazna.
Just before i t youll find Chodna 25, one of the finest
establishments of its kind. Opened in 2004 this is where
the theatre crowd gather to discuss opening night, and
i ts not rare to fi nd stars of Pol i sh screen and stage
hunched over beers while shaggy dogs sit in their midst.
Dont be surprised to walk in on impromptu poetry slams,
or a performance by experimental bands answering to
names like The Crazy Pierogi. The only thing missing:
their liquor license.
Etgar Kerets House E- 2, ul. Ch odna 22/ul.
elazna 74. Across the street from Chodna 25 youll
find the location for what is one of the thinnest homes in
the world (were not kidding: opening the refrigerator door
would necessitate standing in another room). Designed by
architect Jakub Szczsny, the steel-framed construction
will be finished with Styrofoam and plywood with its wid-
est point being 133cm and its narrowest just 71cm. The
Israeli writer Etgar Keret, for whom this has been built, will
use it as a home in Warsaw and when he is out of town,
the installation (it has been listed a piece of art as it has
no building licence) will act as a studio for visiting artists.
Keret is an interesting character in himsel f. The son of a
Polish Jew who spent 3 years of the war hiding from the
Germans in a compartment under the floor of a Warsaw
house, Keret sees this proj ect as an external eye on
Warsaw and its cultural landscape. He wants to show that
Warsaw is a lively and multicultural city totally at odds with
the image created by the Ministry of Education in Israel
who he feels indoctrinate Israeli youth in a pilgrimage of
hatred. The location is also signi ficant. Found on what
was the border between the large and small ghettos of
WWII Warsaw, the building can be found perched between
a Communist era block and a pre-war tenement which
is meant as a comment on the neighbourhoods divided
past The buildings were not touching each other which is
symbolic of the ignorance during the Communist period
says Szczsny. I f a symbol was needed for the district this
surely should be it in our opinion.
A Footbridge of Memory D-2, Intersection of ul.
Chodna and ul. elazna. Standing on the corner of Zelazna
and Chlodna is the Footbridge of Memory memorial, two
giant metal poles connected across Chlodna by wires. This
is the location of one of the most recognisable images of
the Warsaw ghetto: the footbridge that connected the small
and large ghettos. At night the wires light up and create a
virtual bridge in the exact location of the former ghetto bridge.
The poles also have viewing windows where visitors can flip
through images of life in the Warsaw ghetto. By now youve
also probably noticed the pavement outline that symbolizes
the ghettos borders, which can be found on the sidewalk as
you tromp down Chlodna.
Obera Pod Czer wonym Wieprzem E- 2, ul .
elazna 68. More of Chodnas Jewish connections later,
next up is a visi t to Obera Pod Czerwonym Wi eprzem
(Under the Red Hog Inn). The storys a good one: in 2006
workers uncovered the remains of a secret underground
eatery frequented over the decades by all the communist
baddi es youd ever thi nk of - Mao, Leni n, Castro and
Brezhnev to name but a few. Unearthed were a stack of
medals, uni forms, manuscripts and menus, so this being
capi talist Poland a plan was hatched to restore the res-
taurant to i ts former gl ory and make a mint from touting
i t as the all -singing commi e experi ence. Of course, the
story i tsel f is a l oad of poppycock, and nothing more
than a cheeky PR stunt pull ed by the management. But
i t was enough to fool the j ournalists and a l egend was
born. Now i ts an intrinsi c part on any tour of Socialist
Poland, as well as j oll y good place to dine on Ti to Boar,
aspi c and pi gs trotters. Yum!
10
ELEKTORALNA & CHODNA
Jerzy Popieuszkos house A-3, ul. Chodna 15. Back
onto Chodna and youll find more signs of Polands communist
legacy in the shape of rows and rows of grim concrete tower
blocks. They all look the same, and make for a depressing
backdrop. However its not for this reason that Chodna is best
known. Chodna 15 is where Jerzy Popieuszko, the Catholic
priest murdered by security services in 1984, once lived. A
fierce anti-communist Popieuszko had strong links with the
Solidarity movement and had been identified as a threat to the
system. Having already survived one attempt on his life he was
followed after saying mass in Bydgoszcz on October 19th, 1984,
apprehended and murdered before his body was unceremoni-
ously dumped in a lake. Seen as a national hero and martyr his
funeral attracted over a quarter of a million mourners, and today
a stone tablet sits in the centre of Chodna in tribute to his life.
Adam Czerniakws house A-3, ul. Chodna 20.
Standing on the other side you cant miss Chodna 20. Not
only is this a smashing piece of art nouveau Warsaw, but
theres also a bit of history behind it all. Built in 1913 this is
the former residence of Adam Czerniakw. An engineer by
profession Czerniakw assumed fame as head of the Juden-
rat (the Jewish led organization responsible for implementing
Nazi orders in the Ghetto). Troubled by German orders to
oversee deportations to Treblinka Czerniakw chose death
by cyanide rather than comply, and his body is now interred
in the Jewish cemetery on ul. Okopowa.
St. Carlo Borromeo Church (Koci w. Karola
Boromeusza) A-3, ul. Chodna 9, tel. (+48) 22 620 37
47, www.parafiaandrzeja.pl. The Socialist Realist build-
ings found next door are typical of rebuilt Warsaw, and fine
examples of this uniquely Stalinist style. Nice as it is, theres
only one thing that dominates the vision as you look down
Chodna - the splendid form of St. Carlo Borromeo Church.
Designed by Henryk Marconi, and built between 1841 and
1849, this glorious building was modelled on the Santa Maria
Maggiore Basilica in Rome. Miraculously it escaped WWII
virtually intact, with only the presbytery sustaining damage.
Subject to recent work to restore the figures of the apostles
that stand outside, this sits up there alongside Warsaws top
churches. Q Open during mass or by prior arrangement.
T.G.I. Fridays E-2, Al. Jana Pawa II 29. From there
youre practicall y on Al. Jana Pawa II, separated from
the clot of traffic only by TGI Fridays. This spot is worth
mentioning because of its place in gangland folklore. Back
in 1999, when mafia gangs still ruled The Wild East, a
mobster named Kajtek was shot dead outside in a hit by
the Woomin gang. An innocent bystander was also killed
in the shooting, and the incident sparked a vicious spiral
of violence; eleven days later five men with known associa-
tions with the Woomin firm were murdered in reprisal in
another Warsaw restaurant.
Hala Mirowska A- 3, Pl. Mirowski 1. Across the
street l ooms the giant Hala Mirowska, whi ch consists
of two narrow bri ck hal l s constructed between 1899
and 1901 on the instruction of Russian mayor Nikolai
Bibikov. It functioned as Warsaws largest market up until
the outbreak of the Warsaw Uprising. Though ravaged
by fire the walls refused to gi ve way and the buil dings
survi ved - check out the bull et scars still all too visi bl e.
Serving as a bus depot in the immediate post-war years
the structure resumed i ts ori ginal purpose in the 1950s,
and today is notabl e for i ts fl ower stalls outsi de, as well
as lines of country folk selling jars of mushrooms out of
the backs of their vans.
Juliusz Sowacki Memorial A-3, ul. Elektoralna 20.
Continuing down Elektoralna street you might spy a rather
nasty looking pinkish stone that stands on the corner of
Elektoralna and Al. Jana Pawa II. Thats there to honour
Juliusz Sowacki, one of the three bards of Poland, who
kept quarters at number 20.
Mazovia Region Centre of Culture and Arts A-3,
ul. Elektoralna 12. Continuing down Elektoralna youll
be met with the sight of the Mazovia Regional Centre of
Culture and Arts on Elektoralna 12 - find classical music
concerts organized each summer. Thats a far cry from
years before when, as the plaque duti full y informs us,
this neo-renaissance building served as Warsaws first
hospital with standalone pavilions. Quite what that means
is anyones guess, but it sounds impressive enough to
warrant a mention.
Grzegorz Przemyk Memorial A-3, ul. Elektoralna
5/7. As your walk slowly nears its conclusion youll find
yoursel f passing a rather gloomy looking school building
on Elektoralna 5/7. Of course, this being Warsaw, even this
place has a story. Outside youll notice a plaque dedicated
to the memory of a lad called Grzegorz Przemyk. He was
the son of a subversive poetess called Barbara Sadowska
who frequently fell afoul of the communist authorities for her
covert political and artistic gatherings. Fed up with her anti-
authoritarian stance the militia decided to scare her by giving
her son a damn good kicking. It went too far, and Przemyk
died of internal injuries on May 12, 1983. The subsequent
inquiry was seen as a whitewash and the case has since
pinballed around the Polish and European law courts for over
a decade without a definitive verdict as to what happened.
Museum of John Paul II Collection A-2, Pl. Bankowy
1. On the other side of street youll notice a figure of the Pope
John Paul II peering out from behind the colonnades. Inside
this building (formerly the Warsaw Stock Exchange) youll
find the Museum of John Paul II Collection, which houses an
excellent collection of art, from Dalis to Van Goghs, named in
honour of the late Pope. And there you have it - Chodna and
Elektoralna, two unsung heroes on the route less travelled.
Full of history, a bit of grime and plenty of quirky sights they
help paint a fuller picture of the remarkable cit of Warsaw.
12
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
13
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
October - November 2012 warsaw.inyourpocket.com
While Warsaw is generally well linked with both the outside
world and the rest of Poland, both road and rail networks
are undergoing major regeneration work, in part thanks to
Warsaws recent hosting of the Euro 2012 football champion-
ships. Improvement work also extends to the airport, and
for the time being travellers more used to the streamlined
transport links of the west may find both patience and nerves
severely tested.
By Car
Warsaw is located in the heart of the country and has ex-
tensive road links with other major Polish cities. Having said
that the competition on the roads front isnt fierce. Roads
leading into Warsaw tend to be of decent dual carriageway
standard, though once you enter the city limits Warsaw traf-
fic can become a serious problem - particularly during the
week. Most major hotels are located in the central area and
you should be heading in most cases for the Central Train
Station (Dworzec Warszawa Centralna) and its neighbour,
the Palace of Culture (PKiN). Parking in the central area
is generally available on-street where there are standard
parking charges payable at roadside machines. Most major
hotels will offer some form of off-road guarded parking. Be
warned that Polish roads and Polish drivers are not the best
especially if you have driven in western Europe.
Indeed, Poland is one of Europes leading nations in road
fatalities, a statistic that will surprise few who have had the
pleasure of using the roads here. A lethal combination of poor
road surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume of different
traffic and, most of all, drivers who have no consideration
for anybody else result in the common sight of mangled car
wrecks around the country. Police seem unwilling to control
irresponsible driving, and dont be surprised to see cars
shooting through red lights, cutting each other up and staking
a claim for the Formula 1 championship.
The speed limit is 50km/hr in cities (60km/hr between
23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside urban areas, 120km/
hr on dual carriageways and 140km/hr on motorways.
Seat belts must be worn at all times and it is illegal for
drivers to use hand-held mobile phones. Following the letter
of the law all cars should be equipped with a first aid kit,
warning triangle, fire extinguisher, rear mud flaps and right
and left hand outside mirrors. Flouting the rules will cost
you 200z (for using a mobile), 100z (not wearing a seat
belt) and up to 500z for speeding. The legal limit for drink
driving is 0.2 blood/alcohol level. Put simply, i f youre
driving, dont drink.
EU citizens may use their home driving licenses as long as
they are valid, however citizens of countries that didnt ratify
the Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk Australia and America) will
find their licenses invalid (though that hasnt stopped anyone
we know from driving their girlfriends car). Carry your license
and passport at all times when driving.
Since April 2007 it has been compulsory for headlights to be
switched on at all times.
Guarded Parking B-3, ul. Krlewska 11 (Sofitel War-
saw Victoria Hotel).
By Bus
If you come to Warsaw by bus, odds are youll be landing
at the main bus station on Al. Jerolozimskie, while budget
options like Polskibus drop passengers off at Dworzec
Autobusowy Metro Wilanowska, a short distance from the
Metro Wilanowska stop.
Main Bus Station (Dworzec Autobusowy Warszawa
Zachodnia) D-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 144, tel. (+48) 703 40
33 30, www.pksbilety.pl. Coaches arrive and depart - unless
otherwise stated - from the Warsaw West Bus Station (Dworzec
Autobusowy Warszawa Zachodnia). Find a currency exchange
and two ATM (bankomat) machines located in the main hall.
There is no Tourist Info point, for the closest youll have to make
the journey into the Palace of Culture, Pl. Defilad 1 (entrance
from ul. Emill Plater). Theres a legitimate left-luggage operation,
as well as five payphones located in one of the side corridors
(though youll need to buy phone cards to use them). You can
do that by visiting one of the Relay kiosks in the main hall. Youll
also be able to buy SIM cards, prepaid cards and transport cards
from here. HALO taxis stand outside the entrance and will charge
you about 20z to the centre. Refuse a lift from any of the smiling
unlicensed operators who offer you a lift. The bus running to the
centre is found right across a busy highway and getting there
is an adventure in itself seeing there are no signposts in the
subway leading there. Basically from the main hall duck down
under the sign saying Dworzec PKP, head down the stairs, turn
right, follow the corridor to its conclusion, turn right again - youll
see two stairwells leading to the surface. Take the left one and
presto, theres your bus stop. Confused? Not half as much as
we were. Good work Warsaw. To get to Central Station take bus
number 127, 130, 158 or 517. At night youll be needing and
N35 or N85. The journey takes approximately 15 minutes so
buy a 2,60z ticket valid for 20 minutes. Remember to validate
your ticket on boarding. Q Ticket Office open 05:30 - 22:00.
PolskiBus ul. Puawska 145 (Dworzec Autobusowy
Metro Wilanowska, s.14), www.polskibus.pl. Note
that the Warsaw-Gdansk route leaves from Metro Mociny.
Ever y si ngl e st reet
i n Warsaw i s cl earl y
marked by a number
of well-positioned and
hi ghl y vi si bl e street
signs. It is almost impossible to go more than 100
metres in Warsaw without knowing what street you are
on. Whats more, the signs are almost always colour
coded: each area of the capital has its own colour. As
a visitor you are most likely to see blue signs (for the
south and south-central part of the city) and brown
(for the northern part of the city centre, and Old Town).
But theres far more hel pful i nformati on on those
street signs than the mere street name, however. I f
you look closely, the vast majority of also include the
numbers of the building in the block to which they are
attached. Whats more, there will often be an arrow
showing whi ch way the numbers climb. As anyone
looking for ul. Marszalkowska 135 (or such like) will
know, Warsaws central boulevards are incredibly long,
and knowing which way to go makes li fe much, much
easier. Whoever it was who decided to invest in the
street signs (and they have been up for some time
now, certainly for more than a decade) we hope that
they became rich and famous.
Street Signs
Whats going on in Poland?
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Warsaw-Modlin Mazovia Airport (Mazowiecki
Port Lotniczy Warszawa-Modlin) ul. Gen. Wiktora
Thommee 1a, Nowy Dwr Mazowiecki, tel. (+48) 22
346 43 60, www.modlinairport.pl. The brand new Mod-
lin airport looks like a shiny tin can in a forest in the middle
of nowhere, which is essentially what it is. Fortunately the
inside is clean, modern and well-equipped to handle inter-
national travelers with plenty of prominent signage. After
collecting your luggage from one of two belts and exiting
into the main hall youll find all the services you could want:
ATMs, an information desk, bathrooms, currency exchange
(expected any day), vending machines (more legitimate
food options are on the way) and car rental companies
(though the airports newness has these folks operating
from makeshift IKEA desks at the moment).
Those looking to end up in Warsaw have three main op-
tions for transport into the city: grab a cab, take a bus
to the capital, or board a shuttle that will take you to
Modlin Train Station where you can take a train to your
destination. Glob Taxi is currently offering transport from
Modlin to the city center for 99z during the week, and
on weekends/after 22:00 it costs an additional 29zl.
Bus riders will find Modlin Airport Express bus company
offering two routes from the airport: the first deposits
travelers outside Warszawa Centralna train station at
Al. Jerozolimskie 56C (a guarded parking) for 33z, while
the other drops you at the Mociny metro station for
29z (tickets can be purchased at the well-marked desk
near the airports exit, and all buses are equipped with
wi-fi). Translud also offers bus service to the center of
Warsaw (youll be dropped across the street from the
Intercontinental on Emili Plater) but it requires an annoy-
ing bus change at Modlin Twierdza ptla stop. You pay
1zl for the first portion of the trip and 8zl for the second
bus into the city for a total of 9zl. For the schedule visit
their website at www.translud.pl. The final option involves
a 10-minute shuttle bus ride to the Modlin train station.
The green and yellow buses pull up in front of the airport
every 20 minutes, and drivers sell 12zl airport tickets
that cover your fare on the train as well. The brand new
modern and air-conditioned Koleje Mazowieckie (Elf)
trains take 45 minutes to reach Warszawa Centralna
(note you need to board the trains that terminate at
Frederick Chopin Airport in order to reach Centralna,
and this train also stops at Warszawa Wschodnia). The
earliest train departure for Centralna is 3:26, while the
last is at 00:40 (this information is subject to change
beginning October 15). For the latest schedule informa-
tion visit http://www.mazowieckie.com.pl/en. Note that
weve heard horror stories about transfers purchased via
the airlines - namely no-show buses - so buyer beware.
Modlin Train Station
ul. Mieszka I 3, Nowy
Dwr Mazowiecki, tel.
(+48) 19 757, www.pkp.
pl. Modlin train station has
recently been renovated
and is as sparklingly new as
the airport itself. That said,
you wont find much beyond a waiting room, toilets and a
ticket window (open 07:00 - 18:40) so far. Plans for a cafe
are in the works, and a newly-opened attached hostel called
Zaczarowana Stacyjka is welcoming guests. The shuttle
to Modlin Airport picks up and drops off passengers in the
front of the station. Q Ticket office open 03:00 - 01:00.
Warsaw-Modlin Mazovia Airport
9
8
14
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
15
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
Car rental
Budget ul. wirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650
40 62, www.budget.pl. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.
Dollar Thrifty Rent a Car ul. wirki i Wigury 1 (Air-
port), tel. (+48) 668 66 33 00, www.dollar-rentacar.
com.pl. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.
Hertz ul. wirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650
28 96, www.hertz.com.pl. Also at (F-3) ul. Nowogrodzka
27 (Open 09:00 - 15:00, Mon, Fri 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat,
Sun.) QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.
Local Rent A Car B-3, ul. Marszakowska 140, tel.
(+48) 501 21 61 93, www.lrc.com.pl. QOpen 09:00 -
18:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 14:00.
Avis ul. wirki i Wigury 1
(Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650 48
72, www.avis.pl. Avis provide
short-term and long-term rentals,
chauffeur drive service as well as cargo van rentals. Theres
over 1,000 models available, equipped with air-conditioning,
air bags and ABS for your guaranteed comfort and safety.
Also possible to exchange and swap cars. Also at Al. Jero-
zolimskie 65/79 (B-4, Marriott Hotel) and ul. opuszaska
12a (Wochy). QOpen 07:00 - 23:30, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 23:00.
Europcar ul. wirki i
Wigury 1 (Airport), tel.
(+48) 22 650 25 64,
www.europcar.pl. One
of the worlds biggest car rental companies offers rental
solutions tailor made for travellers (both short and long
term) that will suit all needs (15 different categories of cars
are available; Europcar is present at all Polish airports and
many other convenient locations). Europcar creates flexible
driving solutions to meet your individual mobility needs.
Note that the Radisson Blue Sobieski is a meeting point
(cars can be picked up and dropped off here). Theres also
an office at the new Modlin Airport. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00.
Joka D-2, ul. Oko-
powa 47, tel. (+48)
609 18 10 20,
www.joka.com.pl.
A wide range of cars from the baby Fiat Panda to the
spacious Mercedes E200 CDi station wagon. All cars
are equipped with power assisted steering. Satellite
navigation systems are also available. Special rates
offered to those who order through the Joka website,
and go online to find the latest seasonal promotions. Q
Open 09:00-17:00, Sat 09:00-12:00. Outside of these
hours open on request.
Sixt ul. wirki i Wigury 1
(Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650
20 31, www.sixt.pl. One of
the worlds largest and oldest
car rental companies offers a choice of solutions from
short and long rental periods to holiday cars. Theres
even a fleet of limousines if youre interested. Vehicles
range from Seats to luxury Mercedes. Bonuses include
GPS and Sixt cards. Also at ul. Emilii Plater 49 (A-4,
InterContinental Hotel). QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.
The taxi rank outside exits 1 and 2 offers three certified
companies: Super Taxi, Sawa Taxi and Ele Taxi. The 15-30
minute ride to the centre costs around 25-40 zoty, though
be on guard for unlicensed sharks - theyll charge three or
four times that.
Cheapskates can catch the brand new train into the city or
get bus number 175.
The train station can be found underground by turning right
outside of whichever arrivals area you leave from and going all
the way to the end of the covered section where you will find
escalators taking you down to ticket booths. Routes S2 and
S3C will take you Centralna train station, while S3S will take
you to rdmiecie station in the city center. Trains are due
to run 4 times per hour. Be sure to validate your ticket in the
kasowniks upon boarding. Bus stops can be found in front of
arrivals at Zone AB and Zone CD. Tickets for the bus are also
3.60z (be sure to validate). Buses run frequently between
05:05 and 23:05 with journey time taking approximately
25 minutes. At night when the 175 stops running travelers
can take the N32 night bus, which runs every 30 minutes.
Warsaw Shuttle, tel. (+48) 506 17 54 95, www.
warsawshuttle.com. The company offers private airport
transfer services at competitive prices from 99PLN per run.
Highest quality for the best possible price. Call in advance
to book.
Warszawa Lotnisko Chopina Train Station ul. wirki
i Wigury 1 (Airport). The new railway station connecting the
airport and the city centre can be found by exiting the arriv-
als hall in either terminal and turning right. The underground
station can be accessed by escalators found just after the
covered area outside the terminals. See By Plane for informa-
tion on train destinations, ticket prices and frequency.
By Train
Warsaws main train station, Centralna, is a hulking metal
giant that sits conveniently in the citys center and is the main
hub for trains arriving in the capital. Additionally passengers
may disembark at the smaller Warszawa Wschodnia on the
eastern side of the Vistula river between Praga Polnoc and
Praga Poludnie districts, and Warszawa Zachodnia on the
border of Ochota and Wola districts to the west of the city.
Warszawa Wschodnia Train Station H-1, ul. Kij-
owska 8, tel. (+48) 197 57. Q Open 24hrs. Note that
due to system maintenance seat reservations cannot be
made between 00:00 - 01:30.
Warszawa Zachodnia Train Station D- 4, ul.
Tunelowa 1, tel. (+48) 197 57. Q Ticket office open 24
hours. Note that due to system maintenance seat reserva-
tions cannot be made between 00:00 - 01:30.
By Plane
Warsaw has been fortunate when it comes to airports: the
main hub, Chopin Airport, recently received a modern overhaul
while budget carriers like Wizzair and Ryanair now have a place
to call their own in the new Modlin Airport northwest of the capi-
tal. Both airports offer plenty of options for transportation and
make accessing the city an impressively smooth endeavour.
Warsaw Frederick Chopin Airport (Port Lotniczy im.
Fryderyka Chopina) ul. wirki i Wigury 1, tel. (+48) 22
650 42 20, www.lotnisko-chopina.pl. Warsaw Frederick Cho-
pin Airport (Port Lotniczy im. Fryderyka Chopina) has recently seen
the opening of Zone AB, a glass and steel giant that sits rather
awkwardly next to the older Zone CD (which is currently under
major renovation and therefore closed). Collectively they are called
Terminal A, and the spacious AB now handles all incoming and
outgoing traffic. The hallway connecting the zones houses ATMs,
exchange offices, tourist info, coffee shops and snack marts.
The days when cash
bells would ring when-
ever a cab driver would
hear a foreign accent
might have passed, but
its still always better
to ri ng ahead rather
than just hailing a taxi
in the street. In particular avoid drivers who hawk their
services in the arrivals hall at the airport; weve heard
plenty of horror stories.
All the companies we list will usually have someone on
their switchboard who can speak English. MPT, the state-
run firm, can boast the most reliable reputation. But you
wont find many cheaper than Super Taxi. Find ELE taxis
on the Marriott tower side of the central station; its the
second row of cars. Tipping is not expected, but if your
driver gets you from A to B without a detour through the
countryside then by all means, feel free
Ele Taxi, tel. (+48) 22 811 11 11, www.eletaxi.pl.
Halo Taxi OK, tel. (+48) 22 196 23,
www.halotaxiok.pl.
Merc Taxi, tel. (+48) 22 677 77 77,
www.6777777.pl.
MPT, tel. (+48) 22 191 91, www.taximpt.pl.
Sawa Taxi, tel. (+48) 22 644 44 44,
www.sawataxi.com.pl.
Super Taxi, tel. (+48) 22 196 22,
www.supertaxi.pl.
Taxis
16
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
17
BASICS
Public Transport
www.ztm.waw.pl. Warsaw has an extensive bus and tram
system criss-crossing the city as well as a good, but very
limited, metro system running from north to south. Over
1,200 buses operate in and around the city, and most run
from between 05:00 and 23:00. After that night buses run
on most routes twice every hour. All night buses display the
letter N, followed by a two digit number. Fast buses (marked
with red digits) skip the smaller stops.
Tickets (all valid for use on metro, bus and tram) can be
bought from some kiosks bearing the green and yellow
RUCH logo, or anywhere with a sign reading Bilety. There
are now also a series of ticket machines with instructions
in English dotted around the city, and English translations
are printed on tickets.To save yoursel f the hassle of work-
ing out which ticket you need or trying to buy to explain it
to the lady in the kiosk.
A standard public transport single ticket costs 3.60z.
If youre travelling to the further reaches of Warsaw youll
be needing a ticket that covers both zones 1 and 2 - these
are priced at 5.60z. Note that the airport is in Zone 1. Still
with us? Good. Tickets are also available for specific time
periods and come valid for 20, 40 and 60 minutes. These
are priced at 2,60z, 3,80z and 5,20z. Tickets valid for 24
hrs are priced at 12 or 19z if travelling through both zones.
Three day tickets cost 24z, or 38z for both zones. Children
up to the age of 7 years travel for free (have proof of age
ID handy). Everyone else pays full fare unless in possession
of an ISIC card. This entitles you to buy a reduced ticket
(ulgowy) which costs approximately 50% of the full fare.
You can buy single tickets from the driver, though you must
have exact change. Once youve got a ticket you will need to
validate it in one of the box-style kasowniks, thus activating
the magnetic strip on the
back. On the metro this must
be done before you get on
board. It is no longer neces-
sary to buy an extra ticket
for animals or large pieces
of l uggage. Pl ai n cl othes
ticket inspectors regularly
stalk the lines, dishing out
180z fines for those without
valid tickets. They often dont
look very official and you are
within your rights to request
identification, or even do as
the locals do, and attempt to
bargain them down.
ments; if there is any doubt about the value or age of your
purchase, we suggest you visit an Antykwariat (antiques
dealer - see shopping) for advice.
Electricity
Electricity in Poland is 230V, 50Hz AC. Plug sockets are round
with two round-pin sockets. Therefore if you are coming from
the UK or Ireland you are definitely going to need a plug
convertor. The best place to pick these up is at home as our
residents Brits will testify although if you do arrive without
a covertor you can try your hotel concierge or reception. If
they dont have one the best place to pick one up is at one
of the big electrical outlets often situated on the edge of
town. Our advice is save yourself the hassle and get one in
the airport as you leave.
Health & Emergency
In case of an emergency those dialling from a land line or
public phone should use the following numbers: 999 for an
ambulance, 998 for the fire brigade and 997 for the police.
Mobile phone users should call 112 to be forwarded to the
relevant department. English speaking assistance is not
necessarily guaranteed, and rests on the linguistic capabili-
ties of the operator.
Between June 1st and September 30th English, German and
Russian speakers have the option of using a separate line
specifically designed for foreigners in distress: dial 800 200
300 from a land-line or 608 599 999 from a mobile phone
for troubles during high-tourist season.
I f youve woken up to find youve got a raging headache, a
swollen foot you cant put weight on and vague memories
of some kind of calami ty we suggest you sort i t out by
calling a pri vate clini c, thus avoi ding the hassl e of the
notori ousl y l ong queues i n Pol i sh hospi tal s; a l i st of
pri vate clini cs can be found in the Directory in the back
of this guide. Further help can be provided by embassies
and consulates, a list of whi ch can also be found in the
Directory. I f i ts a financial emergency your hopes will
rest on a Western Union money transfer. Most banks
and many exchange bureaus (kantors) can now carry out
such transactions, j ust keep an eye out for the Western
Uni on l ogo.
For a list of clinics and hospitals check the directory section
at the back of this guide.
Territory
Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometers
and is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders
the Baltic Sea and seven countries, namely the Baltic
Sea (528km), Belarus (416km), Czech Republic (790km),
Germany (467km), Li thuania (103km), the Russian
exclave of Kaliningrad (210km),Slovakia (539km) and,
Ukraine (529km).
Longest River
Warsaw is split by the river Vistula (Wisa). At 1,047km it
is Polands longest river and flows into the Bay of Gdask
(Zatoka Gdaska).
Highest Point
The highest peak in Poland is Rysy (2,499 metres) found
in the Tatra mountains in the south of Poland.
Population (2011)
Poland: 38,538,447
Warsaw: 1,708,491
Krakw: 759,137
d: 728,892
Wrocaw: 631,235
Pozna: 554,696
Gdask: 460,517
Katowice: 310,764
Local time
Poland is in the Central European (CET) time zone
(GMT+1hr). When its 12:00 in Warsaw its 11:00 in
London, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin and 19:00 in Tokyo.
Polish summer time (GMT+2hrs) starts and ends on the
last Sundays of March and October.
Facts & Figures
Institute of Meteorology and Water Management,
www.imgw.pl
Climate
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60
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Rainfall
Temperature
Climate
Poland has a temperate climate with hot summers and cold
winters. Seasons tend to be more pronounced than in the
west and temperatures can get down as low as -20 C in winter
and as high as +30 C in summer. The coldest weather tends
to hit around February although the long winter of 2009/10
saw a record low temperature in Poland of -32 degrees. Be-
low is a graphic showing average temperatures and rainfall.
Customs
If you are travelling within the EU those over 18 can now take
10 litres of spirits, 90 litres of wine and 110 litres of beer.
Most countries will not allow more than 800 cigarettes from
Poland. If purchasing art or books, you need to consider their
age and value. In order to leave the country, art must be both
less than 50 years old and under a certain value (varies
depending by type; photos 6,000z, other art 14,000z, for
example); if these conditions are met, the gallery curator can
then provide you with a zawiadczenie (permission docu-
ment) describing the artworks price and when and where it
was created. If the work exceeds the permitted age or value,
you must get permission from the Wojewdzki Konserwator
Zabytkw (Regional Curators Office) to take it out of Poland;
bear in mind that this process will likely take 2-3 months.
Books must be less than 100 years old and under 6,000z in
value in order to leave the country; if neither applies, permis-
sion must be obtained from the National Library. Obviously,
problems arise when purchases are made at bazaars or flea
markets where vendors cannot provide the necessary docu-
Warszawa Centralna Train Station A/B-4, Al.
Jerozolimskie 54, tel. (+48) 197 57. Warsaw Central
Station (Warszawa Centralna) is exactly what it says on
the tin: central. And thanks to recent renovations were
happy to say its now easy to navigate as well. Centralna
is looking better than it ever has with new storefronts
and modern upgrades that will impress those whove
been away for a while. From alighting the train you should
take one of the two facing escalators (if theyre working)
in the centre of the platform, which will lead you up into
one of the underground passages that flank the main
hall. Whichever side you come up on you will be one
level below ground level and the ticket hall. Kantors
can be found in the underground passageway between
Centralna and the Marriott. Signs for ATMs (bankomats)
are everywhere, and though once sparse the machines
can be spotted at almost every turn.
Tourist info can be found at the Service Point in the main
hall (08:00-20:00) or across the street at the Palace of
Culture - just look for the i sign (Open 08:00-18:00). They
can provide you with maps, etc. Tickets for the public trans-
port system can be bought from most of the newspaper
kiosks. Left luggage is located in the underground corridor
that runs below the main hall. Look for Przechowalnia
Bagau, where stewards will look after your bag, or opt
for one of the plentiful lockers. Payphones can be found
in the underground tunnels with cards available from all
the kiosks. Connect to a Polish network via mobile by get-
ting SIM and pre-paid cards from the same newsagents.
Both entrances of the main hall are covered by taxi
ranks, and by passing via tunnels under the main road
youll find bus and tram stops though once you enter the
signs are more of a hinderance than a help and you may
never be seen or heard of again. Officially sanctioned ELE
taxis can be found at the rank on Aleje Jerozolimskie and
SAWA taxis can be found rank on the Zote Tarasy side.
On the ground level there is a travel office run by Polish
rail. Find it on the Zote Tarasy side of the building to the
right of the stairs heading down to the platforms under
the Centrum Obslugi Klienta sign (info line 197 57, www.
intercity.pl). Open from 09:00 - 20:00, the multi-lingual
staff (they can even assist the deaf) can search for the
cheapest/easiest connection, sell you international and
domestic tickets, and can help plan your trip for you.
The selection of outlets selling food and drink at Centralna
has improved dramatically with the renovations. Head to
Green Coffee, Starbucks or Coffee Heaven for a range of
good coffee or hot and cold snacks which are available to
takeaway while McDonalds can also be found by following
one of the many signs. If you have time to kill, Champions
in the Marriott can be reached via the underground pas-
sageway and offers a far better place to sit and wait than
the station itself, as does the nearby Zote Tarasy shopping
centre. Dont be alarmed to find Warszawa Centralna used
as a drop-in centre by Warsaws homeless population - while
most are harmless some like to pass their time being drunk
and abusive. Bizarrely, while the Polish rail staff manning the
ticket booths are mono-lingual (try booths number 14 and
16, which now claim English-speaking staff), the tramps in
Centralna seem adept at begging in a multitude of tongues.
Q Open 24hrs. Note that due to system maintenance seat
reservations cannot be made between 00:00 - 01:30.
Warszawa Centralna
18
BASICS
19
BASICS
halved while you will be getting 25-40% less zoty for your
euros and sterling than a couple of years back. Having said
that prices for food, drink, cultural venues and transport still
remain comparatively cheap in contrast to Western Europe.
A ticket to the theatre or cinema will rarely cost more than
20z while admission to most museums costs around 5-10z.
Post
Central Post Office (Urzd Pocztowy Warszawa
1) A-3, ul. witokrzyska 31/33, tel. (+48) 22 505 32
01, www.poczta-polska.pl. Q Open 24hrs.
Post Office (Urzd Pocztowy Warszawa 15) C-4,
Pl. Trzech Krzyy 13, tel. (+48) 22 629 72 69, www.
poczta-polska.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Religion
For over one thousand years Poland has been a bulwark of
Catholicism, fighting against the horrors of pagan invasions
and looking to Catholicism for a sense of social and national
unity. When Poland was partitioned in the 19th century, many
turned to the church for solace and during the communist
era, underground resistance meetings were surreptitiously
held in churches.
The deceased Polish-born Pope John Paul II remains a genu-
ine source of pride for all Poles, and is beloved in a way more
profound than cynics in the West can understand. Many
Poles genuinely believe that John Paul II single-handedly
started the overthrow of Communism in Central and Eastern
Europe. Small wonder then, that your average Pole takes
Catholicism very seriously. Those used to the more easy-
going habits of the West may find the Polish enthusiasm a
bit unnerving at first, particularly the solemn and opulent
processions that occur from time to time and the droves
that flock to mass.
Toilets
Generally speaking toilets in Poland come marked with a
circle for women, and a triangle for men. Although the habit
is gradually dying some restaurants and bars still charge
a nominal fee for use of their facilities - no matter how
much cash youve already spent in the establishment. This
is a practice also used in train stations and most public
conveniences.
2theloo A/B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 54 (Warszawa Cen-
tralna Train Station), www.2theloo.com.
Toilet C-4, ul. Krucza 51.
Toilet B-1, ul. Krzywe Koo 22/24.
Many Poles, particularly younger people, have a fairly healthy
command of the English language. Many will also be adept at
other European languages with German being the most commonly
spoken. Older Poles will fiercely contest that they have forgotten
the Russian taught to them at school but most will still have a
reasonable understanding.
Mastering the Polish tongue can be a terrifying ordeal and will often
result in personal degradation as shop assistants laugh at your
flustered attempts. That aside, learning a few key phrases will smooth
your time in Poland and may even win you friends and admirers.
On the positive side Polish sounds as it appears. This is a great
help once you know how to pronounce each letter/combination
of letters. Many letters represent the same sounds as they do in
English. Below we have listed those particular to Polish.
Basic pronunciation of Polish vowels
sounds like on in the French bon
sounds like en as in the French bien
is an open o sound like oo in boot
Basic pronunciation of consonants
c like the ts in bits
j like the y in yeah
w is pronounced like the English v
like the w in win
like the ny in canyon
cz and like the ch in beach
dz like the ds in beds
rz and like the su in treasure
sz and like the sh in ship
drz like the g in George
r is always rolled and stress is generally always on the last but
one syllable.
Think youve got that? Here are some words and phrases to get
you started.
Civilities
cze (cheshch) hi/bye
dzie dobry ( jen do-bri) good morning/
afternoon
dobry wieczr (do-bri vyeh-choor) good evening
dobranoc (dobrah-nots) good night
tak (tahk) yes
nie (nyeh) no
prosz (prosheh) please
na zdrowie (nah zdrovyeh) cheers
dzikuje ( jen-koo-yeh) thank you
przepraszam (psheh-prasham) sorry
kocham ci (koham tshe) I love you
Mam na imi (mam nah ee-myeh) My name is
Jestem z Anglii (yehstem zanglee) I am from England
Necessities
Gdzie s toalety? (gdjeh song toalety) Where are the toilets?
Czy mwi pan/pani
po angielsku?
(che moovee
pan/panee po
angyelskoo?)
Do you (male/female)
speak English?
Nie mwi po
polsku
(nyeh moovyeh po
polskoo)
I dont speak Polish
Prosz to napisa (prosheh toh
napeesatch)
Please write it down
Czy mona tu pali (che mohzhnah too
paleech?)
Can I smoke here?
Jedno piwo
poprosz
(yedno peevo poh-
prosheh)
One beer please
Numbers
1 jeden yehden
2 dwa dva
3 trzy tshi
10 dziesi jayshench
General
Airport lotnisko
Train station dworzec pkp
Bus station dworzec pks
Right/left prawo/lewo
One ticket to jeden bilet do
First/second class pierwsza/druga klasa
Language smarts
tolerance threshold is now decidedly low so dont push your
luck. Those who do may well be treated to a trip to Warsaws
premier drunk tank (ul. Kolska 2/4), a chastening experience
which will set you back 250z for a 6-24 hour stay. In return
for your cash expect a strip search, a set of blue pyjamas
and the company of a dozen mumbling vagrants. Those
resisting arrest may well find themselves strapped down
to a bed, One Flew Over The Cuckoos Nest-style. Refresh-
ment comes in the form of limitless coffee, though the mug
sometimes comes with a smell of urine for a reason. Credit
cards not accepted.
The other well-known ways tourists can cross cops is by
jaywalking. If you are from a country which has no (or doesnt
respect) jaywalking laws, youll be surprised to see a crowd
of people standing obediently at a crossing waiting for the
lights to change. This peculiarity has extra effect if you are
aware of how little Poles respect the rules of the road in a
vehicle, where it often feels like a survival of the fittest. The
reason for the obedience of this particular rule is the fact that
the local city police (Stra Miejska) will quite freely give you a
100z fine for crossing a road at a place where no crossing
is marked or a 100z fine when the walk light is red. And
dont think you are exempt by being a foreign visitor. You are
subject to the law too and your non-residency means you will
need to pay the fine on the spot.
Money
Thinking of paying for your tram ticket with one of the 100z
notes in your pocket? Think again. Small shops, newsagents,
public toilets, even the occasional fast food franchise and
bar, will refuse to break a large note for you. As annoying as
coins can be, do carry small change for such moments. Notes
come in denominations of 200, 100, 50, 20 and 10 zotys,
and there are 1, 2 and 5 zoty coins. One zoty equals 100
groszy which come in 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 groszy coins.
Currency can be exchanged at airports, hotels, banks and
anywhere with a sign proclaiming it to be a Kantor and you will
also be able to withdraw currency at a bankomat using your
ATM card. A Kantor will often provide better value than the
banks in your home country or the ATM although for obvious
reasons be very wary of Kantors in the airports, bus stations
and close to tourist sights. Shopping around will reward you
with the best rate. The Polish currency has been exceedingly
strong in recent years and the value of the dollar has nearly
Pri ces i n Poland are still fai rl y competi ti ve despi te
increases over the last couple of years particularly in
the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday
products and prices.
Market values as of September 17, 2012
based on 1 = 4.03z
Product Price (z) Price ()
McDonald's Big Mac 9.10 z 2.26
Snickers 1.29 z 0.32
0.5ltr vodka (shop) 22.99 z 5.70
0.5ltr beer (shop) 2.89 z 0.72
0.5ltr beer (bar) 9.00 z 2.23
Loaf of white bread 2.89 z 0.72
20 Marlboros 11.20 z 2.78
1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98) 6.10 z 1.51
Local transport ticket (1 journey) 3.60 z 0.89
Market values
November 1 All Saints Day
November 11 Independence Day (Nov 11, 1918)
December 25 First Day of Christmas
December 26 Second Day of Christmas
January 1, 2013 New Years Day
January 6, 2013 Three Kings
March 31, 2013 Easter Sunday
April 1 Easter Monday
May 1 Labour Day
May 3 Constitution Day (May 3, 1791)
May 19, 2013 Pentecost Sunday
May 30, 2013 Corpus Christi
August 15 Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, also
Polish Army Day
National Holidays
PLN US$ Euro Pound
3.07z = $1 4.03z = 1 4.97z = 1
1 z $0.33 0.25 0.20
2 z $0.65 0.50 0.40
3 z $0.98 0.74 0.60
4 z $1.30 0.99 0.80
5 z $1.63 1.24 1.01
6 z $1.95 1.49 1.21
7 z $2.28 1.74 1.41
8 z $2.61 1.99 1.61
9 z $2.93 2.23 1.81
10 z $3.26 2.48 2.01
20 z $6.51 4.96 4.02
50 z $16.29 12.41 10.06
100 z $32.57 24.81 20.12
150 z $48.86 37.22 30.18
200 z $65.15 49.63 40.24
250 z $81.43 62.03 50.30
1 000 z $325.73 248.14 201.21
Quick Currency Convertor
Internet
Internet access is typically free and widely available in
Poland, with practically every caf and restaurant offering
wi-fi to customers with laptops and smartphones. Getting on
the network often requires nothing more than a password,
which you can request of your favorite bartender or barista
with a simple, Poprosz o haso do internetu? If you dont
have your own gadgets we offer a few Internet cafe options,
which are plentiful.
Arena B-4, Pl. Defilad 1 (Metro Station Center), tel.
(+48) 22 620 80 32. Also at (F-4) Pl. Konstytucji 5. QOpen
07:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. 6z/hour, 10z/2 hours,
18z/4 hours.
Cyber Cafe ul. wirki i Wigury 1 (in Courtyard by Marri-
ott), tel. (+48) 22 650 01 72, www.courtyardwarsawair-
port.com. Polands best internet cafe. Seating sixty people
the Courtyard Cyber Cafe offers high-speed wireless access,
as well as a menu that puts most Warsaw cafes to shame.
20z per hour. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00.
Law & Order
In general Warsaw is far safer than most Western cities, and
visitors are unlikely to face any problems. Petty crime does
exist, and travellers should be on guard against pickpockets
working tram and bus routes by the train station. If youre
in a bar or a restaurant keep your wallet inside your trouser
pocket, not inside a jacket casually left lying around. Those
travelling by car are advised to use a guarded car park.
Avoid being ripped off by opportunistic taxi gits by using
clearly marked cabs, something to bear in mind around
the train station and airport. The officially sanctioned state
company MPT (tel. 22 19191) is possibly the best bet, and
their switchboard features English speaking operators. The
vagrants and pondlife who gather around the train station are
by in large harmless and easily ignored. Warsaws right bank
has traditionally enjoyed something of a no-go reputation,
though is now fast becoming ever more trendy.
Staying on the right side of the law is significantly easier for
tourists who accept that Polish beer and vodka are rocket
fuel and drink accordingly. If youre determined to make an
idiot of yourself then make sure its not in front of the law.
In recent years visitors ranging from folks in Chewbacca
costumes to complete fools whove thought its perfectly ac-
ceptable to drop trousers and urinate in a city centre fountain
have tested the patience of the local law enforcement. Their
20
CULTURE & EVENTS
21
CULTURE & EVENTS
Square Theatre (Teatr Kwadrat) B- 3, Al .
Niepodlegoci 141, tel. (+48) 22 826 23 89, www.
teatrkwadrat.pl.QBox office open 11:00 - 14:00, 15:00
- 19:30, Mon 11:00 - 14:00, 15:00 - 17:30, Sat, Sun 15:00
- 19:30. Tickets 30-95z.
Theatre On Wola (Teatr Na Woli im. Tadeusza
omnickiego) ul. Kasprzaka 22 (Wola), tel. (+48) 22
632 24 78, www.teatrnawoli.pl.QBox office open 12:00
- 19:00, or until show time. Tickets 20-70z.
The Music Theatre ROMA (Teatr Muzyczny
ROMA) A-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 49, tel. (+48) 22 628 89
98, www.teatrroma.pl.QBox office open 10:00 - 19:00,
Sun 13:00 - 18:00, or until show time. Tickets 30-150z.
Opera Stages
Great Theatre - National Opera (Teatr Wielki -
Opera Narodowa) B-2, Pl. Teatralny 1, tel. (+48) 22
826 50 19, www.teatrwielki.pl.QBox office open 09:00
- 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Tickets 25-145z.
Philharmonics
National Philharmonic (Filharmonia Narodowa)
B-3, ul. Sienkiewicza 10, tel. (+48) 22 551 71 28, www.
filharmonia.pl.QBox office open 10:00 - 14:00, 15:00 -
19:00, Sun depending on the repertoire. Tickets 25-90z.
Concerts
02.10 Tuesday
PEPSI ROCKS! presents R.U.T.A.
B-4, Hard Rock Cafe, ul. Zota 59, tel. (+48) 22 222
07 00, www.pepsirocks.pl. This concert gathers 4 musi-
cians for the great folk project R.U.T.A. Expect to hear old
instruments, folk lyrics and universal themes addressed. Q
Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 42/30z. Available at www.
ticketpro.pl and Empik, ul. Zota 59, B-3 (Open 09:00 - 22:00,
Sun 09:00 - 21:00).
09.10 Tuesday
PEPSI ROCKS! presents The Boogie Town
B-4, Hard Rock Cafe, ul. Zota 59, tel. (+48) 22 222 07
00, www.pepsirocks.pl. This Warsaw band play energetic
music with a certain element of the sentimental. During the
concert they will present material from their new album
Grawitacja. Q Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 15z.
Available before the event.
13.10 Saturday
Tori Amos
B-4, Congress Hall, Pl. Defilad 1. Tori Amos visits Poland
again, this time promoting her new album which is planned
for September release. It should prove a departure as it will
be recorded for the venerable Deutsche Grammophon label,
one of the oldest in the world, usually dedicated to classical
music. So the album, Night Of Hunters, will be a cycle of
songs inspired by classical music from the last 400 years,
something of a concept album, the main character being a
woman who discovers herself again. Profound, Im sure we
can all agree. Q Concert starts at 18:00. Tickets 209-385z.
Available at Congress Hall box office (Open 11:00 - 18:00,
Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00).
Art galleries
Klima Bocheskas Gallery (Galeria Klimy
Bocheskiej) H-1, ul. Zbkowska 27/31, tel. (+48)
601 51 17 13, www.bochenskagallery.pl.QOpen 12:00
- 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission free.
Kordegarda B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 15/17,
tel. (+48) 22 421 01 25, www.kordegarda.org.QOpen
11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.
Stairs Gallery (Galeria Schody) C-3, ul. Nowy wiat
39, tel. (+48) 22 828 89 43, www.galeriaschody.pl.
Q Open 13:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.
The Place of the Zachta Project C- 3, ul.
Gaczyskiego 3, tel. (+48) 22 826 01 36, www.zache-
ta.art.pl.QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.
Zachta National Gallery of Art (Zachta Nar-
odowa Galeria Sztuki) B-3, Pl. Maachowskiego 3,
tel. (+48) 22 556 96 00, www.zacheta.art.pl.Q Open
12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15/10z, Thu free.
Cinemas
Femina A-2, Al. Solidarnoci 115, tel. (+48) 22 654
45 45, www.heliosnet.pl.QBox office open 09:30 - 21:15.
Tickets 16-27z, Tue, Thu 15z.
IMAX ul. Powsiska 31 (Sadyba), tel. (+48) 22 550
33 33, www.kinoimax.pl. Q Box office open from 30
minutes before the first showtime to 15 minutes after last
showtime. Tickets 25-34z.
Kino.Lab G- 4, Ujazdowski Castle (Centrum Sztuki
Wspczesnej), ul. Jazdw 2, tel. (+48) 22 628 12 71
ext. 135, www.kinolab.art.pl.QTickets 12-14z. Box office
open from 12:00 to 15 minutes after last show. Mon open
30 minutes before the showtime.
Multikino Zote Tarasy A-4, ul. Zota 59, tel. (+48)
22 201 16 10, www.multikino.pl. Also on Al. Ken 60
(Ursynw), Wola Park, ul. Grczewska 124 (Wola), Centrum
Targwek, ul. Gbocka 15 (Targwek). Q Box office open
from 15 minutes before the first showtime to 15 minutes
after last showtime. Tickets 18-32z.
Cultural Centres
History Meeting House (Dom Spotka z Histori)
C-2, ul. Karowa 20, tel. (+48) 22 255 05 05, www.dsh.
waw.pl.QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 20:00.
Closed Mon. Admission free.
Mazovia Region Centre of Culture and Arts (Mazow-
ieckie Centrum Kultury i Sztuki) A-3, ul. Elektoralna
12, tel. (+48) 22 586 42 00, www.mckis.waw.pl.QOpen
08:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. Admission free.
Ujazdowski Castle (Museum Of Modern Art/
CSW) (Centrum Sztuki Wspczesnej Zamek
Ujazdowski) G-4, ul. Jazdw 2, tel. (+48) 22 628 12
71 ext.135, www.csw.art.pl.QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Fri
Theatre Stages
National Theatre (Teatr Narodowy) B-2, Pl. Teat-
ralny 3, tel. (+48) 22 692 06 04, www.narodowy.pl.Q
Box office open 11:00 - 14:30, 15:00 - 19:00, Sun depending
on repertoire. Closed Mon. Tickets 40-90z.
Och-Theatre ul. Grjecka 65 (Ochota), tel. (+48) 22
589 52 00, www.ochteatr.com.pl. Q Box office open
12:00 - 19:00. Tickets 40-100z.
Sabat Theatre (Teatr Sabat) B-4, ul. Foksal 16, tel.
(+48) 22 826 23 55 ext. 20, www.teatr-sabat.pl.Q
Box office open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 20:00, Sat
12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Tickets 90-240z.
12.10 Friday - 21.11 Wednesday
28th Warsaw Film Festival
www.wff.pl. Things have come a long way since 1985
when this event started life as a small student festival.
Nowadays its a full-blown red carpet/posh frock affair
with the prizes running to 100,000z. Numbered amongst
the elite group of the 13 most important film festivals in
the world, the programme incudes films from all over the
world screened in Poland for the first time. The competition
section has five categories. Theres the self-explanatory
International Competition and the Competition 1-2, for first
and second time feature film by an internatinal array of direc-
tors. The Free Spirit Competition is an international affair
for independent, innovative films. The Documentary Film
Competition is for feature-length documentaries and finally
the Shorts competition will include works up to 45 minutes
in length. All the categories are international and not limited
to entries from Europe as before, which should make for
some interesting viewing. Movie screenings in English (or
with English subtitles) take place at two cinemas: Multikino
Zote Tarasy, A-4, ul. Zota 59 and Kinoteka, B-4, Pl. Defilad
1 (Palace of Culture and Science). Films for the youngest
audience will be presented at Multikino. Unfortunately the
dialogue will be read by a Polish voice-over. The pre-releases
we will have chance to see include: Keep the lights on, The
sessions, Samsara, Paradise:Faith and many more. Apart
from the competition there will be various movie sections.
One of these is World Today showing films presenting
various facets of the modern world. Q Full schedule avail-
able at www.wff.pl. Tickets 18/12z. Box offices open 30
minutes before first movie projections.
28th Warsaw Film Festival
21.10 Sunday
Our Class
Theatre On Wola, ul. Kasprzaka 22 (Wola), tel. (+48)
22 632 24 78, www.teatrnawoli.pl. Highly thought of
all over Europe, Our Class by Tadeusz Sobodzianek is
the first Polish drama to win the Nike literary award.
Dealing with the growing pains of a group of classmates
who dream of becoming a pilot, a doctor or a film star.
Come and see how their lives are affected by the events
of the 20th century. This performance is in Polish with
English supertitles. Q Events start at 19:00. Tickets
50/70z. Available at Theatre On Wolas box office (12:00
- 19:00) and before the event.
31.10 Wednesday
PROROK ILJA
Theatre on Wola, ul, Kasprzaka 22 (Wola), tel. (+48)
22 632 24 78, www.teatrnawoli.pl. This play, which
translates as Elijah the Prophet, was inspired by one Eliasz
Klimowicz, who believed, as you do, that he was the bibli-
cal messiah and so set up the new capital of the world in
Wierszalin. Having predicted the end of the world, as you
do, and having seen the prophecy failing to materialise,
his followers decided to crucify him to help hasten the
end of the world. As you might expect, its a story about
fanaticism and race hate; a meditation on current world
nationalism, comunism and ethnicity. Q Event starts at
19:00. Tickets 60/30z. Available at theatre box office
(Open 12:00 - 19:00, or until show time).
Wola Theatre
14.10 Sunday
Film Music Concert
B-4, Congress Hall, Pl. Defilad 1. Polish orchestra Sinfonia
Luventu conducted by Maciej Sztor will take us on a journey
through the best in film soundtracks. Come and hear the
theme music to Star Wars, Gladiator, Jaws, Jurassic Park,
Superman, Titanic, Forest Gump, Harry Potter, Superman
and more. Q Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 49-89z.
Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Congress Hall box office
(Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00).
14.10 Sunday
The Cranberries
H- 4, Torwar, ul. azienkowska 6a, www.makrocon-
cert.com/pl. A blast from the past if ever there was one.
I thought theyd given up years ago, but apparently not. If
youre younger than me, likely, and dont know, they are Irish
rockers lead by the charismatic vocalist Dolores ORiordan.
All the big hits such as Zombie, Linger, Salvation and Dreams
will be on the setlist, but there will also be tracks for the new
album Roses. 10 years in the making, lets hope for the fans
sake its worth the wait. Q Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets
150-250z. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik, ul. Zota
59, B-3 (Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00).
22
CULTURE & EVENTS
23
CULTURE & EVENTS
of threes not bad and she seems to have come out of the
experience relatively unscathed. Her music has sometimes
sentimental rhythms connected with energetic instrumental
sounds. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 100 - 450z.
Available at Congress Hall box office (Open 11:00 - 18:00,
Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00).
12.11 Monday
Katie Melua
B-4, Congress Hall, Pl. Defilad 1. Georgian-born singer,
songwriter and musician Katie Melua requires no introduction
to anyone in Poland or, indeed, Europe, where she was the
highest selling female artist in 2006 at the ripe age of 22.
So absurd is her fame that she had a tulip named after her
in 2006. Her and her mates also hold the splendidly inane
record for the deepest underwater concert ever performed,
at 303m below sea level. This tour is on the back of her 5th
album: Secret Symphony. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tick-
ets 100-320z. Available at Congress Hall box office (Open
11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00).
13.11 Tuesday
Orquesta Buena Vista Social Club feat. Omara
Portuondo
B-4, Congress Hall (PKiN), Pl. Defilad 1, www.makro-
concert.com/pl. A must for any fan of the music from the
film. A lot of the original stars, Gonzales and Ferrer, are no
longer with us, but all those performing here played at the
self-same club and the atmosphere and music are sure to
be electric. Q Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 120-180z.
Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Congress Hall box office
(Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00).
19.11 Monday
Come Together - The Beatles
B-4, Congress Hall, Pl. Defilad 1. Obviously named after one
of the Fab Fours greatest hits, this concert is organized to mark
the 50th anniversary of the groups first appearance. Polish stars
will perform the biggest hits, giving them fresh character. On
stage will be: Afromental, Perfect, Lemon, Ryszard Rynkowski,
De Mono, Mech and uki. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets
90-300z. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Congress Hall box
office (Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00).
21.11 Wednesday
Seal
B-4, Palace of Culture and Science, Pl. Defilad 1, www.
makroconcert.com. Famous all over the world for hits like
Kiss From a Rose, Crazy and Amazing, the last time he gave
a concert in Warsaw the tickets sold out immediately. For
this reason hell take in 3 cities on this tour: Gdynia Warsaw
and Wrocaw, and will be playing all his greatest hits as well
as songs from his latest album: Soul 2. Q Concert starts at
19:00. Tickets 150-550z. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and
Empik, ul. Zota 59 (Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00).
Warsaw Chamber Opera
(Warszawska Opera Kam-
eralna) A-1, Al. Solidarnoci
76b, tel. (+48) 22 831 22
40, www.operakameralna.
pl. The Warsaw Chamber Opera
was founded in 1961 by Stefan
Sutkowski, who has served as
its Managing and Artistic Direc-
tor ever since. The companys
inaugural production, performed
on the 4th September 1961,
was Pergolesis La Serva Padrona. Since October 1986
the Opera has performed at its own theatre, a listed
building dating from 1775 whose audience contributes
to the acoustic sound created.
The repertoire of the Warsaw Chamber Opera spans a
wide variety of musical styles and genres: from medieval
mystery plays to the operas of the Baroque and Clas-
sical periods, 18th century pantomimes, the operas by
Rossini and Donizetti, as well as works by contemporary
composers.
The Warsaw Chamber Opera ensembles also give regular
concerts featuring chamber, oratorio and symphonic
music of various epochs. In 1984 the Warsaw Chamber
Opera established the Research and Documentation
Centre of Early Polish Music. It deals with the research,
publ i cati on, per formance and recordi ng of newl y-
discovered works by Polish composers.
The music of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart has long oc-
cupied a prominent place in the companys repertoire.
The Warsaw Chamber Opera is the only company in
the world to have Mozarts entire operatic output in its
permanent repertoire and this unprecedented achieve-
ment has won the Warsaw company-wide international
recognition. In addition to this the Warsaw Chamber
Opera has also organized the 4th Claudio Monteverdi
Festival, The Celebrations to mark 400 Years of Opera
as a Genre and An Ode to Europe Festival. Q Box office
open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun depending on repertoire.
Tickets 20-130z.
25.10 Thursday - 28.10 Sunday
Gioacchino Rossini - The Barber of Seville
Warsaw Chamber Opera, Al. Solidarnoci 76b, tel.
(+48) 22 831 22 40, www.operakameralna.pl.
Theres opera every day here. This one by Gioachino
Rossini, with a libretto by Cesare Sterbini, comes in two
acts. The libretto is based on Pierre Beaumarchaiss
comedy Le Barbier de Sville (1775), originally an opra
comique, or a mixture of spoken play with music. All
performed by a wonderful orchestra, choir and actors.
Q Events start at 19:00.
Warsaw Chamber Opera
23.10 Tuesday
Pepsi Rocks - Afromental
B- 4, Hard Rock Cafe, ul. Zota 59. Reggae, hip hop,
soul and rnb just about sums up what this Olsztyn band
do. Although they released their first album in 2007, their
career has just taken off thanks to their latest hit: Pray 4
love It appears on the soundtrack to the new Polish movie
Kochaj i Tacz (Love and Dance!) which has been a hit in
the cinemas across the nation. Q Concert starts at 21:00.
Tickets 45/32z. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik, ul.
Zota 59 (Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00).
28.10 Sunday
Steve Vai
F-5, Stodoa, ul. Batorego 10, www.go-ahead.pl. A
great composer, music producer and all-round guitar hero,
Vai started to learn how to play at the age of 12 from Joe
Satriani and when he was 18 he started his career with the
mighty Frank Zappa, not bad company to be keeping to be
sure. At the moment he has over 60 albums to his name
and August sees the release of his new album: The story
of light - come and check out the new material as they say.
QTime was undecided at the moment. Tickets 120-150z.
Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik, ul. Zota 59 (Open
09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00).
05.11 Monday
Gotye
Torwar, ul. azienkowska 6a, www.go-ahead.pl. The one
and only Gotye come to Poland for the first time. We all know his
song Somebody that I used to know which topped the chart
around the world. The video was seen a record 4 million times
after 3 weeks on-line and at the moment has had a whopping
218 million hits. From Australia, with Belgian roots, he wont be
a one-hit wonder, but his forthcoming album Making Mirrors
has received rave reviews. Q Time and ticket prices were un-
decided at the moment. Please check our website for updates.
09.11 Friday
Tommy Emmanuel
B-3, Palladium, ul. Zota 9, www.palladium.art.pl. This
artist from Australia has been called one of the best guitarists
on the scene today. In the 70s and 80s he was a member of the
decidedly dodgy sounding band Dragon and it was here that
he perfected his mastery of finger style, a technique of playing
the guitar which is similar to playing piano. A Grammy award
winner, he has cooperated with such stars as Stevie Wonder,
Michael Bolton and Eric Clapton. Q Concert starts at 19:00.
Tickets 150/120z. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik,
ul. Zota 59, B-3 (Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00).
09.11 Friday
Twin Shadow
D-4, Proxima, ul. wirki i Wigury 99a, www.klubproxima.
pl. The American star of alternative pop plays his first club gig
in Poland. Twin Shadow is a nickname of George Lewis Jr, he
shot to fame on the back of songs like Castles in the Snow
and Shooting Holes. His mix of synth and indie pop went down
very well at last years Off Festival. Q Concert starts at 20:00.
Tickets 110/89z. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik,
ul. Zota 59, B-3 (Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00).
11.11 Sunday
Diana Krall
B- 4, Congress Hall, Pl. Defilad 1. This Canadian jazz
singer and pianist, wife of Elvis Costello if youre interested
in domestic matters, has won 5 Grammies and performed
with Ray Charles, Tony Bennett and, er, Celine Dion - two out
E S S E N T I A L C I T Y G U I D E S
W W W . F A B R Y K A Z E S P O L O W . P L
22.11 Thursday
Gossip
H-4, Torwar, ul. azienkowska 6a, www.go-ahead.pl.
Hailing from the USA, Gossip are no strangers to Poland and
have played at Gdynias Opener Festival. This time they are
coming to promote their latest long player A Joyful Noise,
an album released after cooperation with Brian Higgins of Pet
Shop Boys and Kylie Minogue producer fame. Their mixture of
funk, rock, gospel and soul with a charismatic singer is sure
to get you on your feet. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets
120/110z. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik, ul. Zota
59 (Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00).
24
CULTURE & EVENTS
25
CULTURE & EVENTS
Exhibitions
01.03 Thursday - 31.10 Wednesday
Great Football Exhibition
B-4, Palace of Culture and Science, Pl. Defilad 1. With
Euro 2012 getting closer theres more and more football
related events. This exhibition features a unique collection
of boots, t-shirts, pennants and more. Over 100 shirts once
worn by the likes of Zinedine Zidane, Luis Figo, Francisco
Gento and others alongside Polish memorabilia and fam-
ily mementos from Jerzy Englert and the great 70s trainer
Kazimierz Grski. For the younger fans theres multimedia
stations with xbox games and so on; jumpers for goal posts
and all that. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 15/10z.
08.09 Saturday - 25.11 Sunday
Agnieszka Polska - AURORITE
G-4, Ujazdowski Castle, ul. Jazdw 2, tel. (+48) 22 628
12 71 ext.135, www.csw.art.pl. This artist works with
photography, animation, video and collages and is interested
in the nature of the memory and how, due to its imperfections,
it comes close to being creative. Agnieszka Polskas animations
are based on the idea of bringing archival materials, such as
old photos, to life. She uses pre-war newspapers, books, black
and white photography from the 1960s, 1970s, including the
documentation of works of art, as her source materials. The
aesthetic of the materials dictates the atmosphere of her works,
as if rooted in utopian, slightly idealised visions of the future. The
artist shows how misconceptions resulting from reading about
what has been archived, and thus deprived of its original context,
can lead to a certain new quality. Q Open 12:00 - 19:00, Fri
25.10 Thursday - 30.10 Tuesday
10th Warsaw Jewish Film Festival
B-4, Kinoteka, Pl. Defilad 1, www.wjff.pl. This years
jubilee edition is devoted
to the great Ameri can
directing team of Joel and
Ethan Coen. The Honor-
ary David Camera 2012
is awarded to the Coen
Brothers for their courage
and i nsi ght i n showi ng
issues related to Jewishness as well as their unique
contribution to world cinematography. The 10th edition,
like all those before, will be an opportunity to discover
more about Jewish contemporary cinema and the wide
range of subjects it deals with. The programme includes
screenings of such movies as: The Footnote a nomi-
nee for this yearss Oscars as well as last years Palme
dOr at Cannes. Meanwhile The Flood won the Crystal
Bear Award at Berlinale 2011 and Sharqiya was a
nominee for the Panorama Audience Award at Berlinale
2012. This Must Be The Place was also in competition
at Cannes 2011 and then theres the newest German
production with the Polish superstar Mateusz Damiecki
Remembrance. Other attractions include a meeting
with Alex Claude, the sound designer on two outstanding
Festival movies The Footnote and Sharqiya. Theres
also the chance to meet Mateusz Damiecki, who will
be talking about Remembrance. Finally there will be
a session with the amazing Ryszard Ronczewski, the
main actor from the movie Kaddish for a friend. Q Full
schedule available at www.wj ff.pl.
10th Jewish Film Festival
08.09 Saturday - 18.11 Sunday
Freedom Club
G- 4, Ujazdowski Castle, ul. Jazdw 2, tel. (+48)
22 628 12 71 ext.135, www.csw.art.pl. To paint
ever ythi ng! Thi s never sated desi re dri ves Radek
Szlagas artisti c work. A painter of numerous topi cs, i t
mi ght be better to say that his art is a kal ei doscope of
pi eces whi ch have turned into a panorama of the worl d
in chaos. Fl ooded wi th images, he responds wi th his own
paintings. He processes, distorts and mocks the visual
relentlessl y. In Szlagas works the baroque abundance of
imaging fi ghts for something better against primi ti vism
and aggressi ve expression. Szlaga does not l ose hope
that painting can still be a language used to descri be
the worl d, but at the same time he remains j ust a step
away from iconoclasm, going outside the picture frames,
negating and finall y compromising the act of painting.
Q Open 12:00 - 19:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00. Cl osed Mon.
Admission 12/6z, Thu free.
Festivals
01.05 Tuesday - 30.11 Friday
Mazovia in the Crown - Ode to Joy
Event takes place in various location. Check de-
scription for more info., www.mckis.waw.pl. Mazovia
i n the Crown is a seri es of concerts set i n the fi nest
medi eval, Renaissance, and Baroque archi tecture that
the regi on has to of fer. Throughout the cycl e choi rs,
orchestras, chamber bands and sol oists will per form.
Wi th events organised away from the capi tal the ai m
is to wi den access to hi gh and the host ci ti es include
Bonie, Ciechanw, Posk and Sierpc. Q Concert starts
at 19:00. Admission free. Full schedule available at www.
mckis.waw.pl.
12.10 Friday - 13.10 Saturday
Free Form Festival
Soho Factory, ul. Miska 25 (Praga), tel. (+48) 22
827 00 77, www.freeformfestival.pl. Thi s festi val
presents all thats new on the independent music scene
as well as delving into the esoteric business of the art of
city space. This year for the first time we can enjoy the Red
Bull Music Academy with Ewan Pearson, XXXY and Doc
Daneeka performing as well as a DJ set from D Schlach-
thofbronx. The programme is packed with concerts, live
acts, DJ sets, audiovisual shows, video art and design
shows. Other artists invited are: Digitalism Live Kitsune,
The Bloody Beetroots, Little Boots, Delphic, A.G. Trio and
more. Q Tickets 110-150z. Pass 160-220z. Available
at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik, ul. Zota 59, B-3 (Open
09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00).
09.11 Friday - 11.11 Sunday
8th Warsaw Salsa Festival
www.salsafestival.pl. Thi s wi l l be the 8th ti me out
for a festi val wi th hot rhythms presented by the best
dancers i n the worl d. For three days Warsaw wi l l turn
i nto the capi tal of l ati no rhythms. There wi l l be 4 par-
ti es ti l l morni ng, three dance fl oors wth al l the best
i nstructors. You can i mprove or l earn dance styl es
such as cha cha, sal sa, mambo and zouka; there wi l l
be over 80 hours of workshops for both amateurs and
professi onal s. The dance i nstructors i nvi ted thi s year
are Eddi e Torres and Yamul ee and each morni ng wi l l
begi n wi th a Zumba marathon to wake everybody up. Im
tol d Zumba means move and have fun, great fun. Q
Ti ckets 20-70z. Festi val pass 170-445z. Regi strati on
form at www.sal safesti val.pl.
24.11 Saturday
Papa Roach
Progresja, ul. Kaliskiego 15a. Straight from the heat
of Cali fornia, Papa Roach come with their new album The
connection tucked proudly under their arms. It should
do well, their previous LPs have sold over 15 mln copies.
On the go for 20 years, we are sure to hear hits like Last
resort and She loves me not. Support will be provided
by NOKO. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Ti ckets 100z.
Available at Empik, ul. Zota 59 (Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun
09:00 - 21:00).
29.11 Thursday
Marillion
F- 5, Stodoa, ul. Batorego 10, www.goodmusic.
com.pl. First appearing in 1979, Marillion were originall y
characterised by the distinct singing of their l eader, the
frankl y rather daft, Fish. I t l ooked li ke i t was all over
when he l eft i n 1988 after 4 al bums. However Steve
Hogarth was brought i n to pi ck up the mi ke and thi s
year they will rel ease their 17th al bum, so the lucky fans
can expect some new material at the gi g. Q Concert
starts at 20:00. Ti ckets 120/100z. Availabl e at www.
ti cketpro.pl and Stodoa box of fi ce (Open 09:00 - 21:00,
Sun 09:00 - 14:00).
Follow POLANDIYP on
26
CULTURE & EVENTS
Misc. Events
01.10 Monday
Chippendales - The Ultimate Girls Night Out
Show
concert.com/pl. Beefcake!!! The story of the Chippendales
goes back to 1978 when 12 incredibly handsome guys
from Los Angeles formed the first group. Not looking back
since in their various incarnations the band have given over
40,000 shows in 150 countries. Apparently its not about
nudity, squadron of porkers at 6 oclock, but about making
womens dreams come true. All in the best possible taste. Q
Event starts at 19:30. Tickets 90-160z. Available at www.
ticketpro.pl and Empik, ul. Zota 59, B-3 (Open 10:00 - 22:00,
Sat 10:00 - 20:00).
Theatre
04.11 Sunday
TANGO PASIN - De Buenos Aires Tango
Show
concert.com/pl. This show has been a regular feature on
Broadway since 1993 and now they are coming to Poland.
Tango Pasion is performed by a group of dancers chosen
from the cream of Argentinian dance schools and the aim, as
the name suggests, is to depict a number of passionate love
stories. That said, when I think of Tango, I cant get away from
Jack Lemmon in Some Like it Hot. Whos the lucky girl?
asks Tony Curtis. I am, comes the reply. Q Event starts
at 19:00. Tickets 90-250z. Available at www.ticketpro.pl
and Congress Hall box office (Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun
11:00 - 15:00).
07.11 Wednesday - 08.11 Thursday
Stomp
B-4, Congress Hall, Pl. Defilad 1,
www.makroconcert.com/pl. After
their huge success on Broadway as
well as some stirling work at the
Olympic closing ceremony, Stomp
are here for three unmissable perfor-
mances in Warsaw. Using everything
from Zippo lighters to rubbish bins to
make music, they are known for their
expression and improvisation as well
as the splendid racket they kick up.
Recommended. Q Events start at
19:00 on 7th November, at 17:00, 20:30 on 8th November.
Tickets 90-270z. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Congress
Hall box office (Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00).
Warsaw
November 28
th
Sala Kongresowa
Whitney.Royalart.com.pl W ne o l co l
Tickets: Ebilet, Eventim, Ticketportal, Ticketpro, Empik
Art Color Ballet
Modern Symphony
Orchestra
Soul City
Gospel Choir
UJK
Music Show
in Memory of
28.11 Wednesday
Whitney Houston Symphonically
B-4, Congress Hall, Pl. Defilad 1, tel. (+48) 536 408
797, www.whitney.royalart.com.pl. This event has
been organised to commemorate the late lamented diva.
It should be a special night for fans uniquely combining
the power of the symphony orchestra, the energy of a
gospel choir, the choreography of ballet group and a light
show. Over 100 artists will perform all the most famous
numbers. Q Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 80-300z.
Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Congress Hall box
office (Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00).
Whitney Houston
28
WHERE TO STAY
29
WHERE TO STAY
Cream of the crop
Hyatt Regency Warsaw G-5, ul. Belwederska 23, tel.
(+48) 22 558 12 34, www.warsaw.regency.hyatt.com.
Situated right on the doorstep of azienki Park, the Hyatt
not only has all the five star trimmings, but the biggest hotel
swimming pool in Warsaw. By hotel standards the rooms are
enormous, and come with easy-on-the-eye cream colours
and huge showerheads designed for that mock rain experi-
ence. Q250 rooms (90 singles, 132 doubles, 10 suites, 2
Diplomatic Suite, 1 Presidential Suite). PTHAR6U
FLGKDCwW hhhhh
InterContinental A- 4, ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. (+48)
22 328 88 88, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com.
A beauti ful three-legged structure, the Warsaw InterCon-
tinental is nothing short of an architectural marvel. Ac-
commodation fits the setting, with spacious rooms using
pleasant colour combinations and including every facility
one would expect. Setting it apart from the competition
is a fitness centre and swimming pool on the 43rd floor,
and huge residential suites for long-term guests. Q414
rooms (336 si ngl es, 336 doubl es, 78 apartments, 1
Presidential Suite). PTHAR6UFLGKD
CwW hhhhh
Le Mr i di en Br i stol C- 2, ul . Kr akowski e
Przedmiecie 42/44, tel. (+48) 22 551 10 00,
www.lemeridien.pl. Breathe i n history by booki ng a
night in Warsaws most famous hotel. The plaque in the
marble clad lobby lists dozens of stars and royalty who
have chosen to lodge here, and to countdown the facilities
on offer would require an hour of your time. Art nouveau
is the theme and rooms feature the classy ambiance of
yesteryear. But for all the five star perks and trimmings
our favourite touch is the courtyard garden; an oasis of
luxury perfect for evening drinks. The hotels floor by floor
renovations are still in progress but fortunatel y won t
affect guests. Q206 rooms (168 singles, 168 doubles,
37 apartments, 1 Paderewski Sui te). PTJHA
R6UFGKDCW hhhhh
Mamaison Hotel Le Regina Warsaw B-1, ul.
Kocielna 12, tel. (+48) 22 531 60 00, www.mamaison.
com/leregina. Rated by many as the most stylish hotel in
Warsaw, the Regina is the bottom line in elegance and comes
set behind a row of pastel coloured colonnades in Warsaws
New Town area. No expense has been spared in creating this
luxury retreat, with bleached oak and marble mocha used
for flooring, and restored frescoes featuring in many of the
rooms. A monastic quiet prevails throughout this courtyard
centred hotel, with interiors featuring a soothing combo of
whites, creams and caramel colours. Q61 rooms (58 singles,
58 doubles, 1 Penthouse, 1 Le Regina Suite, 1 Presidential
Suite). PTJHARUFGKDCW hhhhh
Marriott B- 4, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. (+48)
22 630 63 06, www.warsawmarriott.pl. A hotel with
real pedigree, the Warsaw Marriott has everything from
Warsaws classiest doorman outside to award winning
restaurants inside. The accommodation has been home to
a long line of visiting nabobs, including President Obama. An
extensive program of renovation has recently seen all the
rooms upgraded and the beds are so comfortable you may
not wish to leave them. Little details include lemon shampoo
in the bathrooms, mini-bars complete with pipes of Pringles
and views that stretch right across the city. Q518 rooms
(423 singles, 423 doubles, 31 suites, 60 apartments, 2
Vice Presidential Suite , 1 Presidential Suite). PTHA
R6UFLGKDCwW hhhhh
Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel A-3, ul. Grzybowska
24, tel. (+48) 22 321 88 88, www.radissonblu.com/
hotel-warsaw. An excellent hotel with top-drawer facilities
and rooms themed on Italian, Scandinavian and maritime
styles. All come with dataports, free Wi-fi, three telephone
lines, safes and pay-TV, and theres also state-of-the-art
conference, dining and fitness facilities. Q311 rooms (284
singles, 284 doubles, 26 apartments, 1 Presidential Apart-
ment). PTHAR6UFGKDCwW hhhhh
Rialto F- 4, ul. Wilcza 73, tel. (+48) 22 584 87 00,
www.rialto.pl. Relive the days of Lempicka and Lindbergh
inside Polands original boutique hotel, a stunning venue
decorated exclusively in art deco style. Period furnishings
have been plucked from the auction houses and antique
stores of Europe, and all the individually designed rooms
come with Italian linen, DVD players and a host of luxurious
extras. I f its available then book into lucky number 13, a
colonial pearl which Hercule Poirot would have loved. He
would have thought highly of the excellent in-house restau-
rant, too, which has a special menu that offers the cuisine
of pre-war Warsaw for added authenticity. Q44 rooms (6
singles, 27 doubles, 11 apartments). PTHARUF
GKDW hhhhh
Sheraton Warsaw Hotel C- 4, ul. Prusa 2, tel. (+48)
22 450 61 00, www.sheraton.pl/en. Its all a bit Dynasty
in the Warsaw Sheraton, with lots of marble and gold plate
extras, as well as a selection of some of Warsaws best
eateries on the ground floor. Rooms are of generous size,
though to really feel like king consider upgrading to execu-
tive, where perks include access to a great lounge featur-
ing complimentary snacks and beverages. Q350 rooms
(326 singles, 326 doubles, 18 suites, 5 apartments, 1
Presidential Suite). PTHAR6UFLGKDW
hhhhh
Sofitel Warsaw Victoria B-3, ul. Krlewska 11, tel.
(+48) 22 657 80 11, www.sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com.
For years the Sofitel was in very real danger of stagnation.
Now this revamped concrete block finds itself at the heart
of the action with revitalised Krakowskie Przedmiecie on
one side, and Saski Park on the other. And, right in front,
Sir Norman Fosters Metropolitan building, complete with
its glass cased offices and designer boutiques. So what of
the Sofitel itself? Rooms are dapper enough, fully equipped
to deal with the steep demands of the five star traveller.
Ask for a business class room if you require an additional
study with fax and copy facilities. Q343 rooms (160 singles,
170 doubles, 52 apartments, 1 Presidential Suite). PO
THAR6UFLGKDCW hhhhh
The Westin Warsaw Hotel A-3, Al. Jana Pawa II
21, tel. (+48) 22 450 80 00, www.westin.pl/en. A
top bracket sanctuary situated amid the skyscrapers of
Warsaws business district. The lobby buzzes at all hours
and a glass lift whisks guests to rooms decorated in warms
tones and ultra-modern fittings. Each comes replete with
dressing gowns and slippers, in-room movies and mini-bars
that will take a considerable effort to clear. Splash out on the
executive floor for access to a top floor lounge that features
gourmet finger snacks and champagne on ice. Q361 rooms
(345 singles, 345 doubles, 15 suites, 1 Presidential Suite).
PTHAR6UFLGKDW hhhhh
Warsaw i s a busi -
ness ci ty fi rst and
foremost, and oc-
cupancy rates reflect
that. Prices dip the
moment the cl ock
hits Friday, 5pm, and
youll find some great
discounts available
i f you hunt around
online. A good place
to start is at poland.
i nyourpocket. com
where our Hotel Calculator scours booking engines for
the best rates based on your criteria (you can thank us
later). The Warsaw hotel market reflects the citys im-
age as the corporate briefcase of Eastern Europe and
comes well equipped with five star offerings as well as
a new breed of options for thri fty travellers. Warsaw
now has a group of Golden Keys concierges and their
tips for the coming months can be found in our Ask the
Concierge box.
Here is a list of recommendations depending on what
you are looking for.
Local
Be King of the Castle by booking into Castle Inn, where
rooms custom designed by local artists offer a uniquely
modern angle to the Old Town setting. For something
more upmarket check into the Polonia Palace, a re-
stored art nouveau building bang in the centre. Or why
not see what its like to be a (wealthy) local, and rent out
an apartment - we vouch for Residence St Andrews,
class apartments in an A1 location.
Cheap
Camera Hostel is ideal if youre looking to meet up with
random travelers from around the globe, while newcomer
Moon Hostel is a little more upscale (flatscreens in the
rooms) and a little less backpackeresque. If you prefer to
party with the student set Fest Hostel is located right
in the core of the University district.
Lads
I f youre touring in numbers then go for a name brand,
all of which tend to drop their rates at weekends. I f
you want to be central and close to the action then try
The Golden Tulip, Radisson Blu and Campanile. I f
quick access to the airport is an essential requirement
then the new Holiday Inn Express Warsaw Airport
has you covered.
Couples
MaMaison Le Regina is the perfect honeymoon ex-
perience, and right in the middle of romantic new town.
Alternatively, request the rose room at the Sleepwell
Apartments and find floor-to-ceiling flowers accenting
your bed.
Splurge
The city has seen a number of new hotels in recent
years and while we can vouch for all the major hotels,
it might be worth taking a look at the price comparison
service hotelcalculator on the hotel pages of poland.
inyourpocket.com.
Lodgings at a glance
Poland hit world headlines on April 10th 2010 when a
plane carrying President Lech Kaczyski, his wife and
ninety four other passengers crashed by the city of
Smolensk killing all on board. The plane clipped trees as
it came into land, before turning upside down and plung-
ing to the ground. The president and his entourage had
been flying in to mark the 70th anniversary of the Katy
Massacre, a notorious episode in which Stalin ordered
the execution of approximately 22,000 Polish officers.
For decades Russia had denied responsibility, and only
recently had steps been taken to mend bridges.
Strangely, the tragedy served to bring these two ancient
foes closer together and many Poles, at the time, were left
impressed by the sympathetic reaction of Putin & Co. As
with all high profile disasters speculation as to the cause
continues to be rife. The official Russian air authority report
into the incident laid the blame squarely on the pilots who
they claim ignored instructions to land elsewhere because
of the poor weather conditions. They also suggested the
presence and distraction of unauthorized personnel in the
cockpit as the key to the tragedy. At first this had been
thought to have been the president himself a man who
once notoriously insisted his pilots fly against their judge-
ment and land in war torn Tbilisi though black box evidence
now points to the intrusion at members of the entourage.
While Kaczyski had been widely forecast to lose heavily
in elections due for the autumn of 2010, the episode had
wider implications. Also on board were the first lady, the
head of the national bank, leading politicians and the heads
of the army, navy and air force; at a stroke Poland lost its
political, military and economic elite. Despite Kaczyskis
unpopularity the outpouring of grief was unmatched since
the death of Pope John Paul II, and churches packed out
as mourners paid their respects. In the capital thousands
lined the streets when the bodies of Mr and Mrs Kaczyski
were returned, and for the next week the streets outside
the Presidential Palace were turned into a giant shrine as
people converged to lay flowers and light candles on April
17th alone, over 100,000 mourners gathered in Pisudski
Square to listen to a state service.
But even in death Kaczyski remained a divisive and
controversial figure. The decision to bury him in Krakws
Wawel Cathedral, the ancient resting site of monarchs
and saints, split Poles down the middle, with many
protesting the decision with the slogan Warsaw for
Presidents, Krakw for Kings. Held on April 18th 2010
the funeral was marked with a service in Krakws St
Marys Cathedral, before the coffins were transported
with military escort to the crypt of Wawel.
Since then however President Kaczynskis twin brother
and his opposition party have openly accused the current
government of negligence and relations between Poland
and Russia have been strained by what the Poles see
as a total whitewash in the report of any Russian blame.
Disaster at Smolensk
www.prezydent.pl
30
WHERE TO STAY
31
WHERE TO STAY
Mid-range
Boutique Bed & Breakfast C-4, ul. Smolna 14/6,
tel. (+48) 22 829 48 01, www.bbwarsaw.com. Quiet
and cobbled, Smolna is not a typical city centre street, and
neither is this your typical set of apartments. Apartments
suit all budgets, though the Queen - with a large living space
- is well worth the extra outlay. Accommodation has been
designed to evoke a real atmosphere of home-away-from-
home and features lots of flowers, natural wood and personal
touches courtesy of Jarek, your host. Q21 rooms (3 singles,
16 doubles, 2 apartments). THAGW
Campanile E-3, ul. Towarowa 2, tel. (+48) 22 582 72
00, www.campanile.com.pl. Decorated with chequered
patterns and green and yellow colour schemes the Campa-
nile accommodation includes satellite TV and pristine bath-
rooms. High standards and a central location. Q194 rooms
(194 singles, 194 doubles). PTHA6UGKW hh
Castle Inn B-2, ul. witojaska 2 (entrance from Pl.
Zamkowy), tel. (+48) 22 425 01 00, www.castleinn.
pl. When students grow up, grow rich and can no longer
stand hostels, they stay in places like this. A dream of a
hotel at the centre of Old Town you can expect big rooms,
all with individual decor - some classy, some kitsch, all good
fun - and - wait for it - velvet doors. Best of all though are
the rooms which have the massive (and we mean massive)
bathrooms. We dare you to find bigger bathrooms than those
on offer here in any other hotel in Warsaw. Much like their
clientele the owners of this place have also graduated up
from hostels (they run the Oki-Doki). If this is what becomes of
hostels when they grow up, bring it on. Q22 rooms (3 singles,
10 doubles, 1 triple, 8 apartments). TYHA6GW
Chmielna Guest House C-4, ul. Chmielna 13, tel.
(+48) 22 828 12 82, www.chmielnabb.pl. Budget priced
boutique accommodation courtesy of the brains behind the
New World Hostel. Theres seven rooms to choose from, includ-
ing London (red, vibrating wall), San Francisco (black/white,
modern metropolitan) and Hoi An (hardwood and a curtained
bed). Its a great concept for those too old for hostels but too
young for Hilton, and the deal here includes a cool looking living
room with a chic style and flatscreen plasma. Find the recep-
tion 100m away in the New World St. Hostel at ul. Nowy wiat
27 (C-3). Q7 rooms (7 singles, 7 doubles, 1 triple). AGW
Golden Tulip Warsaw Centre E-3, ul. Towarowa 2,
tel. (+48) 22 582 75 00, www.goldentulipwarsawcen-
tre.com. A very favourable price to quality trade-off here,
with plenty of room, heavenly beds and a warm welcome all
part of the deal. However, our favourite detail is the breakfast,
clearly one of the best in the city. What a spread! A hotel with
big ideas that is rightfully putting its sights on getting a fourth
star very soon. Q144 rooms (144 singles, 144 doubles).
PTHA6UFGKDW hhh
Gromada - Dom Chopa B-3, Pl. Powstacw Warsza-
wy 2, tel. (+48) 22 582 99 00, www.domchlopa.pl. Its
almost a surprise to find such a good deal in the city centre.
As the coaches parked outside testify, Gromada is a hit with
package tours and conferences. First sight is an over-waxed
marble lobby, and a curvy stairwell spirits guests to modern,
sunny rooms. The older portion of the hotel offers economy
class accommodation that are not quite as sleek, but the
basic rooms provide everything a weary travel requires. New
amenities include a billiard room, fitness center and sauna,
not to mention a beauty salon that offers a 10 percent dis-
count to guests. Q320 rooms (301 singles, 265 doubles, 17
apartments). POTHAR6UFLGKW hhh
Upmarket
Hilton Warsaw Hotel & Convention Centre E-3,
ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. (+48) 22 356 55 55, www.
hiltonwarsaw.pl. Although only open since 2007 the Hilton
already feels like an established big shot on Warsaws four
star circuit. And it cant be denied, theres a hefty dose of
wow factor to swallow - from a breathtaking glass lobby to
the best (and biggest) conference facilities in the city. But
its not just about business. The hotel touts a gorgeous 25
metre pool, while the top floor executive lounge provides
diversions by way of DVDs, snacks, computer games and
private check in. As for the rooms, theyre just what youd
expect from a brand like Hilton. Accommodation comes
with a stylish modern look, walk-in showers and flat screen
televisions. Particularly impressive are the corner suites,
complete with floor-to-ceiling views of downtown Warsaw.
Q314 rooms (303 singles, 303 doubles, 10 apartments,
1 Presidential Suite). POTHAR6UFLGK
DCW hhhh
Holiday Inn Warszawa A- 4, ul. Zota 48/54, tel.
(+48) 22 697 39 99, www.holidayinn.com/warsawpo-
land. A trademark Holiday Inn with a location hemmed in
by the Palace of Culture and Zote Tarasy shopping centre.
Find immaculate facilities throughout, and a standard just
typical of the HI crest. It might look small and squat com-
pared to its neighbours but this hotel is deceptively large,
with a quick tour revealing designer boutiques, fitness
facilities and a beauty parlour. Q336 rooms (54 singles,
272 doubles, 10 apartments). PTHA6UFL
GKDW hhhh
Novotel Warszawa Centrum B-4, ul. Marszakowska
94/98, tel. (+48) 22 596 00 00, www.accorhotels.
com. A sleek silver skyscraper with grandstand views of the
Warsaw skyline one of the big pluses. Subject of a thorough
overhaul the Novotel Centrum gets points for both location
and size, meaning its not rare to find it overrun with tour
groups and conferences. Upstairs find revamped rooms
offering all the four star extras, including Executive rooms
(with iPod docking stations) and even studio and apartment
options. Q733 rooms (50 singles, 661 doubles, 12 suites, 10
apartments). PTHA6UFLGKDW hhhh
Polonia Palace Hotel B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel.
(+48) 22 318 28 00, www.poloniapalace.com. Originally
built in 1913 the Polonia Palace has seen it all, from a victory
banquet hosted by Eisenhower to the Miss World girls back in
2006. The exterior has benefited from a full facelift, and now
dazzles amid its soot-clad neighbours. Slidey doors open onto
a grand marble lobby, while upstairs amply portioned rooms
reveal modern fittings among made-to-look-old furniture. New
32 and 40 LED TVs and hotel-wide Wi-Fi extend the mod-
ern upgrades. Pride of place goes to the apartment, whose
defining feature is a raised lounge area with an oval-shaped
window. Q206 rooms (198 singles, 198 doubles, 7 suites, 1
apartment). PTHAR6UFGKDwW hhhh
Radisson Blu Sobieski Hotel E-3, Pl. Zawiszy 1, tel.
(+48) 22 579 10 00, www.radissonblu.com/sobieski-
warsaw. The faade has a garish rainbow-colored paint job,
but fortunately this newest addition to the Radisson Blu chain
has a much more subtle interior featuring a marble lobby, big
rooms and fitness facilities. Rooms are currently undergoing
renovations that will be completed this fall and wont disturb
guests. And we applaud any changes that mean this hotel
isnt going to charge guests for Internet use anymore. Q435
rooms (60 singles, 328 doubles, 40 apartments, 1 Presi-
dential Suite). PTHAR6UFGKDw hhhh
Dear Readers, welcome to the beautiful
capital of Poland - Warsaw.
Autumn time is com-
ing to our town. Days will become
shorter and colder but hopefully if
you are visiting Warsaw, at least
during October, you will have a
chance to see and feel the amazing
Polish golden autumn. It is still a
good time to take a walk around
Warsaws parks and Old Town sur-
rounded by colourful leaves feeling
the last rays of the sun. The end of
summer is also a period, which delivers a few events from
different disciplines worth your attention.
Here, in Warsaw we still remember the Euro 2012 tour-
nament and its incredible atmosphere, which you could
feel throughout the whole city and country. Football fans
are already thinking about the next great FIFA World Cup
in Rio de Janeiro in 2014 and national teams in Europe
have already started qualification for it.
The next occasion to see one of the games at the Na-
tional Stadium in Warsaw will be on the 16th October.
The game between the Polish and English teams starts
at 21:00 and both teams will want to win their last game
before the winter break.
If you are not fond of football, than an alternative would be the
performance of the Worlds Greatest Pink Floyd Show by the
Brit Floyd. The band will play the greatest hits of Pink Floyd
selected by the Pink Floyd band themselves. This show will
take place as well on the 16th October at the Torwar Hall.
If you are a classical music fan you can be sure that
Warsaw, which is also the cultural capital of Poland,
has something to offer. You can choose between piano
recitals and symphony orchestra concerts in the Warsaw
Philharmonic and great events in The National Theatre
of Opera and Ballet, such as the famous ballet Sleeping
Beauty by Pyotr Tchaikovski.
At the end of October people in Poland begin to prepare
for two important public holidays for us. The first of them
is All Saints Day on the 1st November. This particular
day is exceptional as people go to the cemeteries, to the
graves of their family members, friends or other people
dear to them to light candles and place flowers. If you
are here during this time make sure you visit one of the
largest cemeteries in Warsaw Powzki, where you will
feel this unique atmosphere.
The second is the 11th November, which is Polish Inde-
pendence Day. It could be cold and even maybe snowing
but you will still see the white and red national colours
everywhere and whole families going to see great military
parade and changing of the guard in front of the Tomb of
the Unknown Soldier.
In case the weather does not allow you to spend too
much time outdoors, you will find many indoor attractions,
which are worth seeing such as the National Museum
or Warsaw Uprising Museum. Then in the evening you
can relax , having a drink in one of the Warsaw pubs or
bars or to discover the citys nightlife in one of its clubs.
Enjoy your stay in Warsaw, I am sure each of you will find
something interesting to do. If you are looking for ideas
on what to do and see please do not hesitate to ask
your concierge who will be more than happy to help you.
Sebastian Brodowski
Concierge & Guest Services Manager
InterContinental Warszawa
Ask your Concierge
As far as assignments go, it
doesnt get much bolder than
this one: get rounded up and
taken to Auschwitz on pur-
pose and report back what
i s happeni ng i nsi de. Yes,
the camp most people were
trying to avoid was exactly
where Polands Witold Pilecki
volunteered to go in order to
find out firsthand just what
the Nazis were up to.

Who was this courageous
fellow? Pilecki was an officer
in the Polish mili tary wi th
a long and impressive career that began with service
during World War I and continued in the famed Battle of
Warsaw (also known as the Miracle at the Vistula) that
helped earn Polish independence in 1920. His efforts
landed him two Krzyz Waleczynch (Cross of Valour) and
in the post-war years the silver Cross of Merit for his
work in the community. With the outbreak of World War II
Pilecki was once again mobilised, but the countrys swift
defeat at the hands of the Germans led Pilecki to found
the Taina Armia Polska (Secret Polish Army), one of the
first resistance organizations.

Pileckis idea to infiltrate Auschwitz took root while work-
ing with TAP, and in 1940 he deliberately walked into a
street roundup in Warsaw and became inmate #4859
(under the alias Tomasz Serafiski) at Auschwitz. Inside
he wasted no time: in addition to organizing the under-
ground Zwiazek Organizacji Woskowej (Union of Military
Organizations) to assist inmates with extra food and
clothing and provide news from the outside Pilecki also
secretly built a radio to relay messages to his contacts. It
was these dispatches detailing the state of the camps,
number of deaths and conditions of the inmates that
were forwarded to the Polish government in exile in
London and onward to the Western allies. In April 1943
Pilecki escaped from Auschwitz, hoping to convince the
Home Army to undertake a rescue mission at the camp.

Unfortunately Pileckis detailed reports on the millions
being killed at Auschwitz were largely considered un-
believable, and the British declined to assist the Home
Army in a rescue mission. Pilecki went on to serve during
the Warsaw Uprising, and following the end of the war
he essentially became a spy for the exiled government.
It was in this role that Pilecki was arrested in 1947 by
the Ministry of Public Security, tortured, and put on trial
under trumped-up charges (future Polish prime minister
and fellow Auschwitz inmate Jozef Cyrankiewicz testified
against Pilecki). Unsurprisingly Pilecki was found guilty
and swi ftly executed by the communists on May 25,
1948 at Mokotow Prison.

Interest in Pileckis heroic story was stirred last summer
when Polish authorities began digging up a mass grave
on the edge of Warsaws Powazki Military Cemetery in
the hope of identifying his remains and subsequently
honouring the man. So far more than 100 skeletons have
been exhumed from the pit, which is ironically located not
far from the tombs of the very judges and prosecutors
who condemned Pilecki to death.
Witold Pilecki
32
WHERE TO STAY
33
WHERE TO STAY
Hetman G-1, ul. Kopotowskiego 36, tel. (+48) 22 511
98 00, www.hotelhetman.pl. This is three-star accommo-
dation at its finest. The large rooms come with internet ac-
cess, hairdryers, cable TV and neutral beige colour schemes.
On the Praga side of the river. Q68 rooms (68 singles, 55
doubles). TYHAR6ULGKW hhh
Ibis Ostrobramska ul. Ostrobramska 36 (Praga
Poudnie), tel. (+48) 22 515 78 00, www.accorhotels.
com. Practical, fully functional rooms right in line with the
standard you expect from the Ibis chain. Q137 rooms (137
singles, 137 doubles). PTHA6ULGKW hh
Ibis Stare Miasto A-1, ul. Muranowska 2, tel. (+48)
22 310 10 00, www.accorhotels.com. More of the same
from Ibis: international standards at competitive prices. Best
of all, its location ten minutes from the Old Town means
that your immediate choice is no longer limited to spending
suitcases of cash in the Bristol. Q333 rooms (333 singles,
333 doubles). PTHA6UGKW hh
Ibis Warszawa Centrum D-2, Al. Solidarnoci 165,
tel. (+48) 22 520 30 00, www.accorhotels.com. Reliable
international standards, sensibly priced. Rooms come armed
with all expected mod-cons. Q189 rooms (189 singles, 189
doubles). PTHA6UGKW hh
Maria D-1, Al. Jana Pawa II 71, tel. (+48) 22 838 40
62, www.hotelmaria.pl. A small, family run hotel offering
moderate prices and prim rooms featuring random floral
designs. Q24 rooms (21 singles, 16 doubles, 3 apartments).
PTA6KW hh
MDM F-4, Pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. (+48) 22 339 16 00,
www.hotelmdm.com.pl. Occupying a spot at the top of
Marszakowska most rooms in the MDM feature grandstand
views of Warsaws finest piece of socialist realism: pl. Kon-
stytucji. Accommodation comes with plum coloured carpets
and predictable three star comfort. Q134 rooms (21 singles,
108 doubles, 5 suites). THA6UGKW hhh
Metropol F-3, ul. Marszakowska 99a, tel. (+48) 22
325 31 00, www.hotelmetropol.com.pl. Renovations
have phased out the Cold War era rooms, replacing them
with decent enough digs in the very heart of Warsaw. True,
youll still be looking enviously at those staying in the Novotel
opposite, but this is no longer the hall of horror of yester-
year. Q191 rooms (180 singles, 180 doubles, 11 suites).
PTAR6UGKW hhh
Reytan G-5, ul. Rejtana 6, tel. (+48) 22 201 64 00,
www.reytan.pl. Found down a quiet side street the Rey-
tan delivers a high three star standard. Crisp bed sheets,
bright colours and new furniture. Q86 rooms (86 singles,
74 doubles, 2 suites). PTHA6ULGKW hhh
Sleepwell Apartments C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 62, tel.
(+48) 600 30 07 49, www.sleepwell-warsaw.pl. Sitting
above Nowy wiat, Warsaws swankiest tourist stroll, Sleepwell
has one of the best locations in the city; in one direction are the
clubs of Foksal street, and in the other the stunning Old Town.
Inside the nine rooms all have home theatres, mini-fridges and
giant LCD televisions, but each one is decorated in a unique and
sometimes jarring style. One room features a murderous manga
assassin painted on the wall, one room has a glittery carpet, and
another has large fake roses romantically climbing the ceiling.
Reception is in a separate building so guests must call ahead
for initial access, and no common space means breakfast is
not included (though a discount is available at Caf Vincent
downstairs). Q9 rooms (9 singles, 9 doubles). A6GW
Budget
BEST WESTERN Hotel Felix ul. Omulewska 24
(Praga Poudnie), tel. (+48) 22 210 70 00, www.
bwfelix.pl. Located over on the east side of the river 6km
from the city centre, the Best Western falls comfortably
into the Polish business/conference class of hotels. Having
received a complete makeover and refurb, what you now
have is effectively a very comfortable, brand new hotel at
extremely competitive prices. Handy if youre planning on
spending your time in the fashionable adjacent Praga district.
Q227 rooms (96 singles, 120 doubles, 5 triples, 3 suites).
TYHAR6ULGKW hhh
BEST WESTERN Hotel Portos H-7, ul. Mangalia 3a,
tel. (+48) 22 207 60 00, www.bwportos.pl. What was
once a Start Hotel has been overhauled by Best Western,
transforming this concrete block from outside (a stark
new paint job that makes the building stand out next to its
grubbier neighbours) to inside (that new carpet smell!). The
chain seems to be angling for business travellers, and visi-
tors will enjoy new LCD televisions, laptop computer rests
and even slippers. Were baffled as to why this makeover
only includes Wi-Fi on select floors, but cosmetically its
impressive. An ideal location for travelers looking for quick
access to the Warsaw Trade Fair & Congress Center. Q230
rooms (230 singles, 156 doubles, 8 suites). TYHA
R6ULGKW hhh
Ibis Budget Warszawa Centrum H-3, ul. Zagrna
1, tel. (+48) 22 745 36 60, www.accorhotels.com.
A super addition to Warsaws budget bracket, this hotel
is in the midst of a brand shi ft so you may find yoursel f
checking into an Etap or, i f the transition is complete, an
Ibis hotel. Either way its a winning formula here: bright,
modern rooms inside a sparkling white building in the quiet
Powile district. The rooms come with a simple design but
your cash gets you all the facilities the modern traveller
requires: wireless net access, en-suite bathrooms and
cable television. Q176 rooms (176 singles, 176 doubles,
14 triples). PA6UGW h
Noclegi Okcie Al. Krakowska 236 (Wochy), tel.
(+48) 696 07 00 40, www.noclegiokecie.pl. Magnolia,
one of Noclegi Okcies three accommodations coupled
near the airport (the neighbouring two buildings, Pod Lipami
and U Jakuba are set up hostel-style) has newly remodelled
single and double en-suite modern rooms that will delight
budget travelers: free Wi-fi, an outdoor space for lounging,
immaculate cleanliness and enough distance from the road
to make sleeping a breeze. Breakfast isnt included, but
the hotels nearby restaurant Totu (Al. Krakowska 236) has
reasonably priced Polish fare. Q46 rooms (25 singles, 26
doubles, 8 triples, 7 quads). PAR6GKW
Premiere Classe E-3, ul. Towarowa 2, tel. (+48) 22
624 08 00, www.premiereclasse.com. One of the best
budget options in the city, and as such often fully booked.
Basic, modern rooms come equipped with private bathrooms
and television, and the location is just a tram stop from
the train station. Q126 rooms (126 singles, 126 doubles).
TA6UGXW h
Start Hotel Aramis H-7, ul. Mangalia 3b, tel. (+48) 22
207 80 00, www.hotelaramis.pl. Slightly forbidding at first
glance this one star hotel offers base comfort at even lower
prices. Do go the extra yard and shell out on a renovated room
- perks are minimal but the rooms are clean and come with
television and internet access. Q232 rooms (232 singles,
92 doubles, 139 triples). TYHAR6ULGK h
Courtyard by Marriott Warsaw Airport ul. wirki
i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650 01 00, www.
courtyardwarsawairport.com. In many senses this place,
almost directly opposite the airline check-in desks, is an exten-
sion of Warsaw Airport. People use the superb lobby bar as
a departure lounge, and for those with an early morning start
the big, comfortable rooms here are as good a place as any
to wait for a flight. Fear not the noise of the planes: we slept
like a baby (as did our baby) even though our room had a direct
view of the runway. Q236 rooms (113 singles, 121 doubles,
2 apartments). PTHARUFGKW hhhh
Holiday Inn Express Warsaw Airport ul. Poleczki
31 (Ursynw), tel. (+48) 22 373 37 00, www.hiex-
press.com/hotels/us/en/warsaw/wawwa/hotelde-
tail. Those wanting easy access to the airport just short of
sleeping on the runway will find the brand new Holiday Inn
Express to fit the bill perfectly. Just three minutes away and
accessible via a convenient hotel shuttle, the Holiday Inn
promises amenities that are miss-your-flight worthy: wifi and
flatscreens in every room, a complimentary breakfast buffet
and a business corner for last-minute work needs. Q124
rooms (124 singles, 124 doubles). PTHAUGW
Novotel Warszawa Airport D-7, ul. 1 Sierpnia 1,
tel. (+48) 22 575 60 00, www.accorhotels.com.
Comfortably inside the mid-range bracket, Novotel is a
canny choice for those who expect professional stan-
dards at competitive prices. Splashy colours, dataports
and shining bathrooms lend a comfortable, practical tone
to the rooms. Q281 rooms (280 singles, 280 doubles, 1
apartment). PTHA6UGKW hhh
Airport Hotels
Born in Lodz in 1946, Daniel Libeskind has gone on to
become one of the worlds best known architects, with
projects like the Imperial War Museum in Manchester
and the Jewish Museum in Berlin to his credit. To many
though he will be familiar as the man who originally won
the contract to create the master plan for the World Trade
Center site following the 9/11 attacks.
Wrangles with other architects and developers saw
him eventuall y squeezed from that proj ect, though
closer to (his original) home Libeskind found himself in
charge of the design of Zlota 44, a landmark 192 metre
skyscraper perched between the InterContinental and
the Palace of Culture.
Looking not unlike a bendy Arab cutlass the daring
glass tower was the envisioned home of 251 luxury
apartments (including a number custom designed by
Libeskind himself), a 25 metre stainless steel swimming
pool and a top floor wooden sundeck. And in spite of an
average price of 7,000 euro per square metre interest
proved phenomenal, with packages allegedly snapped
up by stars such as ski jumping legend Adam Malysz and
former national football captain Jacek Bak.
All very well so far, only no one appeared to have a clue
about the financial crisis which was lying in ambush.
Work on the tower had originally been forecast to finish
in 2009, but construction ground to a halt. The project
became the subject of a long-running court battle over
whether it had the necessary permissions to be built and
its developer, the Orco property group, found itself in
difficult financial waters. It looked like Warsaw was going
to have a half-finished concrete epitaph to the financial
travesties of the noughties right in the heart of the city.
Fortunately all finally seems to have been resolved. After a
court decision in October 2010 allowing Orco to start build-
ing again, construction on the skyscraper has resumed.
Now scheduled to be completed 2 years behind schedule
in 2012, it appears that the financial crisis hasnt stopped
Warsaw from continuing to change beyond recognition.
Which will be welcome news to the city gods whose op-
posite numbers in Krakow saw that citys tallest building
stand half-built and empty for over thirty years with work
abandoned on the 90 metre structure the moment com-
munist Poland was plunged into economic meltdown.
Zlota 44
Courtesy of Orco Property Group
34
WHERE TO STAY
35
WHERE TO STAY
filled with designer furniture and extras such as DVD players,
hi-fi and fully functioning kitchens. Very chic, and absolutely
perfect for the travelling CEO. Services include a 24hr English-
speaking reception, laundry and business facilities. Q46
rooms (46 apartments). PTHARLGKW
P&O Apartments B-2, ul. Miodowa 12 lok.22, tel.
(+48) 508 13 59 95, www.pandoapartments.com.pl.
Good looking, modern furnished apartments in locations
across Warsaw - both centre and out. All sizes, and all bud-
gets, though with a distinct slant towards the higher end of
the market. Q60 rooms (60 apartments). TA6GW
Residence St. Andrews Palace B-4, ul. Chmielna
30, tel. (+48) 22 826 46 40, www.residencestandrews.
pl. Fantastic apartments in a wonderful, fully renovated build-
ing in the most central location possible: ul. Chmielna. Not a
penny was spared in the decoration and kitting out of these
places, and the nice little touches that are found all over -
from the marble in the bathrooms to the fully fitted kitchens
with washing machines and dishwashers - will convince you
that this was money well spent. Free Wifi and daily cleaning
included. If this were a hotel, it would be in the Cream of the
Crop section, these apartments are that nice. Q24 rooms
(24 apartments). PTARGW
Hostels
Camera B-3, ul. Jasna 22, tel. (+48) 22 828 86 00,
www.camerahostel.com. Weve never seen a more
bustling hostel than Camera, where the average age of the
guests appears to be 22. Graffiti decorates nearly every
bare space, including the shaky elevator, which adds to the
very youthful feel. The large kitchen is painted like a cartoon
saloon, and lanky male travellers feel comfortable enough
to wander the halls in their boxer shorts. A great location
and sense of camaraderie for younger travellers looking to
connect and party. Q15 rooms (1 single, 5 doubles, 1 triple,
70 Dorm beds). 6GW
Emma C-4, ul. Wilcza 25/4, tel. (+48) 22 629 76 95,
www.emmahostel.pl. Possibly the most eco-friendly hos-
tel in Warsaw, Emma is run by a cooperative of five people
focused on offering green accommodation. What does that
mean? Rubbish is segregated, all the cleaning products used
are bio-degradeable, the furnishings are partly made from
secondhand wood and the tea/coffee is all from Fair Trade
sources. The rooms themselves are clean and efficient (a
socket by every bed for easy charging) and Emma even offers
guests free bikes to roam the city. A hostel with an agenda
that works. Q12 rooms (9 singles, 9 doubles, 3 triples, 27
Dorm beds). T6GW
NEW
Fest Hostel C-3, ul. Obona 7 lok. 64 (entrance from ul.
Sewerynw), tel. (+48) 506 28 52 86, www.festhostel.
pl. The true hostelling experience can be found at Fest, which
doesnt offer any flair - the concrete block building has all the
charm of a former mental institution, towels are issued only
upon request and the bright dorm rooms are pure Ikea chic.
Instead Fest focuses on the things die-hard travellers appreciate
most: a location in the heart of the University area (you will not be
wanting for friends to party with), loads of tourist information and
tips, free breakfast and a healthy wi-fi connection. Q4 rooms
(2 singles, 2 doubles, 18 Dorm beds). 6GW
Moon C-3, ul. Foksal 16, tel. (+48) 22 468 00 66,
www.moonhostel.pl. If its all about location then Moon
Hostels new Warsaw location is one of the best, with a prime
building in the heart of bustling Foksal. The 26 rooms range
from one to eight beds, some with ensuite bathrooms, and
in-room flatscreen tvs. The combined kitchen/lounge area
is naturally sparklingly new, with cushy leather sofas and a
foosball table ready for action. Ideal for visitors who want
their hostel to feel like a hotel. Q26 rooms (14 doubles, 5
triples, 3 quads, 1 Five-person room , 1 Six-person room , 1
Seven-person room , 1 Eight-person room). TA6GW
Oki Doki B-3, Pl. Dbrowskiego 3, tel. (+48) 22 828
01 22, www.okidoki.pl. A charismatic hostel stuffed with
abstract art, bits and pieces from thrift stores and wacky
colour schemes. Rooms (and the reception area) are cur-
rently getting a small refurb though they still dont have
numbers, just themes, and have been designed by a team
of local artists. Take a look at The Realm of Narnia, like
something straight out of C.S. Lewis, or The Communist
Dorm, filled with commie iconography and scenes from So-
cialist Paradise. Kitchen and internet also available for guests
(iffy in rooms, always in common spaces), as well as what
the owners promise is the cheapest beer in Warsaw. For
something more upmarket check into the decidely boutique
Castle Inn, a second pet venture from the same team behind
the Oki Doki. Q37 rooms (1 single, 21 doubles, 5 triples, 60
Dorm beds). TYA6G
Team Hostel D-7, ul. Lechicka 23 B, tel. (+48) 22 868
09 68, www.teamhostel.com. Get recruited for Team
Hostel, a newcomer that makes the hostelling experience
rather plush with air conditioned rooms, free wi-fi and a
location that splits the difference between the airport and
the city centre. With easy access to public transit youll be
in bunk bed heaven here, where guests can choose from
the private two-bed option or the more communal 20-bed
megaroom.Q14 rooms (2 singles, 2 doubles, 100 Dorm
beds). TA6GW
Are you tired of staying in standard hotels?
Feel at home in P&O Apartments in Warsaw.
P&O Apartments offers you accommodation for rent
in the center of the City for overnight stays or for lon-
ger visits and helps you to feel at home in Warsaw.
We offer professional service, quality and excellent
locations as well as competitive pricing.
land line +48 22 636 86 99,
mobile +48 508 135 995
e-mail: booking@pandoapartments.eu
Internet: www.pandoapartments.com.pl
For sun lovers we offer properties for
Sale & Rental on the Costa Del Sol in Spain.
Visit our new and modern office
in Marbella on Costa del Sol or call us
+34 663 652 145; +34951245424
Internet: www.pandoapartments.es
email: costadelsol@pandoapartments.es
Start Hotel Atos H-7, ul. Mangalia 1, tel. (+48) 22 207
70 00, www.hotelatos.pl. Another hotel where spending
the extra on a premium komfort room is wholly encouraged.
Doing so gains you digs in clean, renovated rooms with
functional furniture and wifi and tv. Cutting costs gets you
something altogether more basic. Q231 rooms (231 singles,
106 doubles, 109 triples). TYHAR6ULGK h
Apartments
NEW
H15 Boutique Apartments B-4, ul. Poznaska 15,
tel. (+48) 22 55 38 700, www.h15boutiqueapart-
ments.com. For those who prefer an apartment instead of
a cramped hotel, H15 has upped the stakes. The exterior
alone is a show-stopper of a 19th century building that plays
host to 48 modern flats that range in size and design (studios
to large one-bedrooms with balconies). Each comes with a
kitchenette, massive TV, wireless internet and bathrooms
that give your local spa a run for their money. The customer
service is attentive, though the fact that H15 has already
thought of everything means youre unlikely to need it.Q48
rooms (48 apartments). PTA6LGW
InterContinental A-4, ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. (+48)
22 328 88 88, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com.
Luxury apartments aimed at the long-stay corporate traveller.
Guests are awarded all the privileges granted to those stay-
ing in the hotel, including 24hr room service and use of the
fitness centre. Q76 rooms (76 apartments). PTHA
R6UFLGKDCwW hhhhh
Mamaison Residence Diana Warsaw C- 3, ul.
Chmielna 13a, tel. (+48) 22 505 91 00, www.mamai-
son.com/diana. An outstanding set of serviced apartments
36
RESTAURANTS
African
La MaMa A-2, ul. Andersa 23, tel. (+48) 22 226 35
05, www.lamama.eu. It helps to have an adventurous
appetite at Warsaws newest contribution to African dining,
where no one bats an eye i f you order the baked goat head
or a pile of fried gizzards. Stick to safer fare like the African
risotto with beef and fried plantain and your stomach will
thank you - and be sure to add a Nigerian beer like Star
or Gulder. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. (20-60z).
TAU6GSW
American
Hard Rock Cafe B-4, ul. Zota 59 (Zote Tarasy), tel.
(+48) 22 222 07 00, www.hardrockcafe.pl. Is there
anything more American than sinking your teeth into a 10oz
burger stacked with cheddar and bacon while staring at the
jacket worn by Jimi Hendrix on the cover of Are You Experi-
enced? The Hard Rock Cafe has based a business around the
concept of unrivalled burgers and impressive memorabilia,
and Warsaws chapter is no different. The two-story venue
features a wall made of 675 guitars and menu items like hefty
nachos and barbecue ribs. The dark basement bar churns
out heaping drinks that look like they require two straws.
Even the bathrooms are painfully cool, labelled Guns for
him and Roses for her. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (33-115z).
PTAUEGSW
Sioux B-4, ul. Chmielna 35, tel. (+48) 22 827 82 55,
www.sioux.com.pl. Sioux interprets the American Wild
West as only a chain of themed restaurants can: cheesely.
Grab a Conestoga wagon booth or a table under a framed
photo of Chief Sitting Bull and peruse a menu that tries to
recreate li fe around the campfire with unimpressive ribs,
cold fries and a random selection of Mexican offerings like
fajitas and burritos. Youll find a Sioux serving up cheap,
completely average food in almost every city of size in Po-
land, and unless youre a diehard wagon wheel fanatic, trot
your spurs on to a more interesting (and flavourful) option.
QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. (20-99z).
PTAUGSW
SomePl ace El se C- 4, ul . Prusa 2 (Sheraton
Warsaw Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 450 67 10, www.
warszawa.someplace- else.pl. SPE has been serving
up some of the best burgers in Warsaw for as l ong as
we can remember, and a recent visi t shows li ttl e has
changed: the Orient Express burger is a marriage of lamb
and roast beef doused in hallumi cheese and Medi ter-
ranean veggi es - epi c and creati ve. The large, open bar
is capabl e of mi xing up anything you can think of, includ-
ing a spi cy bl oody Mary to accompany the Sheratons
brunch, whi ch is served here on Sunday. Recommended
particularly i f you are sleeping upstairs so you wont have
far to haul your happil y fed sel f. QOpen 12:00 - 00:30,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:30, Sun 12:00 - 23:30. (41-160z).
PTAUEGSW
T.G.I. Fridays E-2, Al. Jana Pawa II 29, tel. (+48)
22 653 83 60, www.tgifridays.pl. The Fridays experi-
ence as replicated the world over, so no surprises to find
Americana aplenty and staff fitted out with bells, whistles
and other moronic markings. The Warsaw op features
decent burgers and, i f you catch them on the right day,
some smashing steaks. By day a famil y fave, at night
its a bit more grown up with expats and locals, usually
in office attire, drinking shots and braying for cocktails.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (35-70z).
PTAUGSW
Warsaws come a long
way and fast, and no-
where is the urban vi-
brancy more apparent
than i n the ci tys pro-
gressive culinary scene.
The i mmedi ate post-
communist obsession
wi th I tal i an has si nce
given way to fusion, sushi and - most recently - steak,
and dining out is now a truly international experience.
Disappointments do still exist, however, with gruff,
ditzy or plainly incompetent service being a common
lament. Youd think the opening hours we list are sel f-
explanatory. Not so. Venues will more often than not
close their doors i f business is slow. Other restobars
often employ di fferent sets of hours for bar and kitchen
- the times we list in such cases are for the kitchen,
and the prices we list in brackets denote the cost of
the cheapest and most expensive main course on the
menu. In regards to tipping, either round the bill up or
leave 10% - but only i f you think the service warrants
it. Here is a selection of recommendations depending
what you are looking for.
Business
Restauracja Rana is an experienced local offering
that will impress the client and give you room to talk shop,
while Butchery and Wine recently won accolades as
the citys top restaurant. For a more casual atmosphere
weve spotted many briefcases and ties at Socjals
communal table.
Cheap
The many Bar Mleczny canteens (Milk Bars) are a
legacy to the communist past, and while theyre cheap
you may wish to skip them unless you really are bone
broke and starving.
Couples
Solec 44 has a solid menu and a massive array of
board games at which you can challenge (and beat) your
sweetheart while Halka has elegant date night interiors
and a menu to match.
Kids
Hard Rock Cafe is always going to be a favourite and
they do know how to make your special ones feel special.
And Kosmos Kosmos has an entire epic playroom for
kids, and a menu designed for their parents.
Lads
The Warsaw Tortilla Factory is the place to prove your
worth to the team by guzzling lager from private taps while
noshing on the citys best burritos. If you like meatier
fare weve got plenty of burger recommendations like
Barn Burger and LOKAL.BISTRO to share while steak
lovers should head directly to 99 Restaurant and Bar.
Polski
Eat Commie style in Obera Pod Czerwonym Wiepr-
zem, or for a more upscale take on Polish cuisine try
Dom Polski. Celebrity chef Magda Gessler makes Polish
goulash stylish (and isnt it the perfect season for it?) at
Masz Gulasz.
Eating at a glance
38
RESTAURANTS
39
RESTAURANTS
Balkan
Banja Luka B-3, ul. Szkolna 2/4, tel. (+48) 22 828 10
60, www.banjaluka.pl. Reliable Banja Luka has moved!
Sure, their Facebook page doesnt seem to know it yet, but
we do - where else do you head in Warsaw for monstrous
portions of the best Balkan food in town? The more central
spot means the citys officebots have discovered a great new
lunch special, with 24zl filling you with a new daily menu that
sounds like what a small wrestling team might take down:
large lumps of roast pork, pancakes with spinach, spicy fish
soup and even baklava for dessert. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
(38-75z). PTAEGSW
Brazilian
Browar de Brasil B- 4, ul. Marszakowska 76/80,
tel. (+48) 534 60 09 90, www.browardebrasil.pl. The
large copper tanks are your first clue that this new two-story
churrascaria is serious about brewing their own high-quality
beer. The attire worn by the waitresses might throw you off
for a minute - yes, they are dressed in tacky, revealing faux
football uniforms - but the four in-house beers are worthy, and
carnivores will swoon at the ten different types of meat that
arrive on a giant sword in all-you-can-eat style for 64z. Sure
to be as popular as the flagship d location. QOpen 10:00
- 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. (15-80z). PTAXS
British
Legends British Bar & Restaurant B-4, ul. Emilii
Plater 25, tel. (+48) 22 622 46 40, www.legendsbar.
pl. Legends is settling gently into its rhythm as the thinking
(and eating) mans football watching venue of choice. Basi-
cally has two things going for it: good British grub (a steak and
kidney to relish is served), British ales and Sky Sports (if the
waitress can work out which channel is showing what). What
it needs now are a few pints spilt on the floor and a few rowdy
evenings to knock off the new look. Find it a stones throw
south of the Marriott hotel. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun
12:00 - 21:00. (25-50z). PTA6XSW
Chinese
Cesarski Paac B-2, ul. Senatorska 27, tel. (+48) 22
827 97 07, www.cesarski-palac.com.pl. The lunch deal
is one of the best value in the city, so expect a bit of a free-
for-all once the clock hits one. The food is a mix of Chinese
flavours, with more Szechuan than Beijing, though its this
lack of focus that eventually hamstrings this locale: theres
just too much on offer. If they stuck to what they knew best
it could easily become one of the better Asian eateries in
Warsaw. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:30 - 23:00, Sun
12:30 - 22:00. (29-136z). PTAUGSW
China Garden ul. Kazachska 1 (Wilanw), tel. (+48) 22
241 10 10, www.chinagarden.pl. Excellent food served
in an elegant but relaxed atmosphere down in the moneyed
Wilanw district of Warsaw. Unlike many Chinese restaurants
the decoration is tastefully done with tiled floors, lanterns
and lots of reds and blacks with an aquarium and fountain
centrepieces. The food is authentic with a particular focus
on the cuisine of the Jiangsu region and the menu offers a
comprehensive choice of dishes including a beautifully pre-
sented Nanjing duck. Of note if you are visiting the palace at
Wilanw, youll find it a 10 minute walk along Klimczaka, the
start of which is the left of the two streets directly across
the road from the palace entrance. Its definitely worth the
walk and arguably even the cab fare from the centre. QOpen
12:00 - 22:00. (22-59z). PTAUGSW
The Oriental C- 3, ul. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Warsaw
Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 450 67 05, www.theoriental.
pl. Exquisite dishes at premium prices. The menu covers
every kitchen from Japan to Singapore, with the seafood
earni ng parti cul arl y hi gh scores. From the 15th-27th
of October a special Thai buf fet will be on hand from
Monday-Saturday from 17:00 - 22:30 for 85zl per person.
Q Open 17:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:30 - 16:30. (35-140z).
PTAUGSW
Czech
U Szwejka F-4, Pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. (+48) 22 339
17 10, www.uszwejka.pl. This aging establishment,
equipped with Czech street signs and images of simpleton
Szwejk, is a bit of a Warsaw classic, and while it looks brash
and basic the food is fine and the portions are scary. The
steak is inconsistent, so best stick to ordering standards
like sausages and schnitzel, and visit in summer when a
terrace opens onto Pl. Konstytucji. Patience is a good tactic
to use with the staff, but theres certainly no criticism of the
Pilsner on draught - cut the dismal waiting times by order-
ing in steins. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun
13:00 - 24:00. (18-52z). PTAEXSW
French
Charlotte. Chleb i Wino F-4, Al. Wyzwolenia 18 (en-
trance from Pl. Zbawiciela), tel. (+48) 662 20 45 55,
www.bistrocharlotte.com. Sinking your teeth into Char-
lottes pain au chocolate you expect to hear La Seine bubbling
past, but instead its your waitress bringing giant jars of jams,
honey and chocolate spread to dig into - this doesnt look
like typical French portion control. This new French bakery/
bistro is already a popular breakfast spot, and a communal
table in the center of the restaurant is a genius solution for
the many solo diners ducking in for a pastry and a latte. The
service at this start-up is still spotty, but considering the
crowds its also understandable. Charlotte is the ideal place
to sip a Perrier and nibble a tart without feeling like le snob.
QOpen 07:00 - 23:45, Fri 07:00 - 00:45, Sat 09:00 - 00:45,
Sun 09:00 - 21:45. (8-18z). TA6GSW
La Rotisserie B-1, ul. Kocielna 12 (Mamaison
Le Regina Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 531 60 70, www.
leregina.com. Tucked i nsi de the el egant Mamai son
Hotel, this high impact treasure presided over by chef
Pawe Oszczyk will leave you bowled over. Decorated with
calming vanilla and caramel colours, Rotisserie is a worthy
indulgence i f youre looking to impress and have the bank
to do it. The chefs tasting menu is the place to splurge,
with six courses of Polish/French cuisine that emphasises
seasonal foods, while the three-course lunch menu lets
budget conscious foodies get their hands on the likes of
Welsh lamb, risotto and a rich chocolate cake. Recom-
mended. QOpen 06:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 23:00.
(86-124z). PTAGSW
Saint Jacques A-3, ul. witokrzyska 34, tel. (+48)
22 620 25 31, www.saintjacques.pl. Directly across
the road from the Warsaw Financial Centre and a few more
metres from the Intercontinental hotel, this French venture
is adorably quaint and well located. A range of well-prepared
French favourites (including frogs legs and snails) are served
amongst black and white floor-to-ceiling pictures of French
street scenes that make it easy to forget the busy city
speeding by outside. The lamb shank with herbs and truffle
puree and brunoise vegetables is their signature dish for a
reason, but we were equally delighted with the rustic savoury
crepes. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (28-56z). PTAGSW
After holding out to be one of the few remaining EU coun-
tries with no prohibitions on smoking, a new law put into
effect on November 15th, 2010 finally limited smoking
in public places. Smoking is now completely banned in
Poland on public transport, transport stops and stations,
schools and universities, workplaces, sports arenas and
other places where the public gather. Owners are obliged
to place a clear and visible No Smoking sign and anyone
caught smoking by either the police or local city guards
(Stra Miejska) is supposedly subject to a 500z fine.
However, in the case of bars, clubs, restaurants and
other public places, the law states that there can be
a separate room for smokers as long as it is properly
ventilated and closed off from the other public areas. In
response to the controversial legislation, many owners
have exercised their right to create a small smoking
room, however others have made the majority of their
establishment smoker-friendly with only a small area set
aside for non-smokers. Due to a lack of enforcement,
some establishments openly flout the law by allowing
smoking wherever they want. As such, while smoking
in public places in Poland has been greatly reduced, it
still continues in many places. To help you find or avoid
places which continue to allow smoking on the premises
we have used the following symbols throughout the guide:
G This place has a complete smoking ban on the
premises
X This place has a smoking section on the premises
Smoking
ul. Andersu 23. Vurszuvu
reservullons: 22 226 35 05
lnfo_lumumu.eu. vvv.lumumu.eu
fucebook.com/lu.mumu.ufrlcu
Ve serve
reul Afrlcun energy
MONDAY
Tap beer half price
TUESDAY
Two gurmaskia pljeskavica
for the price of one
WEDNESDAY
Rakijas day
THURSDAY & FRIDAY
Fresh mussels
SATURDAY
Big butchers swine
SUNDAY
Cooking school for kids
ul. Szkolna 2/4, Warszawa
tel. +48 (22) 828 10 60
kontakt12@banjaluka.pl
www.banjaluka.pl
GREAT PROMOTIONS
ALL WEEK
40
RESTAURANTS
Greek
El Greco A-3, ul. Grzybowska 9, tel. (+48) 22 654 04 58,
www.elgreco-restauracja.pl. On the downside is a location
on the ground floor of a hulking sixties tower block. Fortunately
theyve done a good job on doing it up, and youll only notice
now weve told you. It certainly looks the deal with a light, bright
atmosphere, while the menu is the complete Grecian experi-
ence, right down to the excellent seafood. Theres even the
option for breakfast during the weekday, an additional reason
to pop in and have a look around. QOpen 08:30 - 23:00, Sat,
Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (34-72z). PTAUXSW
Indian
Buddha Indian Restaurant C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 23,
tel. (+48) 22 826 35 01, www.buddha.info.pl. Buddha
really impressed when they opened up a couple of years
back giving us very good Indian food right in the heart of the
city. The decor is lush and extravagant, and the curries fol-
low a similar suit with a spicy slap that puts them at the top
of our list. The rest of the menu is monstrous, but helpfully
benchmarked with symbols for hot, vegetarian and even kid-
friendly dishes. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00.
(30-130z). PTAVGSW
Namaste India C-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. (+48) 22
357 09 39, www.namasteindia.pl. What was a tiny grocery
store with fogged up windows has expanded - granted, the
windows are still fogged, and the grocery store remains tiny,
but youll now find seating shifted into a side room, meaning
theres no more chance of some irritating browser dropping
a tin of mango chutney on your head. For office workers
around town this, the original Namaste, remains the best, and
we cant help but admit this is some of the best ethnic food
around - better still, the prices are set so low you cant help
but ask whats the catch. There isnt one; weve tried pretty
much everything on the menu, and have yet to find a weak link.
If youre picking up a takeaway ring ahead, waiting times are
torture. Also at (B-2) ul. Piwna 12/14. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00,
Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (30-40z). PUGSW
Namaste India Clay Oven B-2, ul. Piwna 12/14,
tel. (+48) 22 635 77 66, www.namasteindia.pl. When
Namaste first opened it proved such a success story a new
venue was needed to cope with the overflow custom. Guess
what, that proved such a success story yet another venue
was needed. And if you thought the previous effort was pretty
good, then bow down and worship at what is up there with the
great Indian restaurants of Central Eastern Europe. Theres no
such thing as a bad meal here, but to really hit the high notes
order the butter chicken - incomparable to any other curry in
town. Also at ul. Nowogrodzka 27 (B-4). QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(22-40z). PTAVGS
Saffron Spices F- 4, Pl. Konstytucji 3, tel. (+48) 22
622 94 10, www.saffronspices.pl. Open less than a
year and Saffron Spices has already made big changes,
shi fting the restaurant from a drab, undecorated space
on Plac Konstytucji to a two-story mammoth with views
of the street and more atmosphere. Fortunately the food
remains consistentl y good: the restaurants si gnature
lentil dish is an instant favourite, pairing deliciously with
piping hot naan. The crunchy onion bhaji are also a good
pre-meal option, especially since the speedy staff brings
them out ahead of the main course. An additional Asian
menu of dishes like pad Thai, fried rice and various Viet-
namese dishes is now also available, but were partial
to the Indian staples. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (20-80z).
PTAUGSW
Fusion
Fusion A-3, Al. Jana Pawa II 21 (The Westin Hotel),
tel. (+48) 22 450 86 31, www.restauracjafusion.pl.
Beautifully presented food in the modern, if regularly quiet,
interiors of the Westin hotel. The food here is very good, if a
tad pricey compared to city restaurants, but you get what you
pay for, with everything being of a superior quality. Regular
seasonal specials based around particular ingredients keep
happy local foodies coming back for more. Q Open 06:30 -
10:30, 12:00 - 22:30, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 10:30, 12:30 - 22:30.
(45-150z). PTAUGSW
Papaya C-3, ul. Foksal 16, tel. (+48) 22 826 11 99,
www.papaya.waw.pl. Well never tire of recommending
Papaya, an ice white venue rated as one of the best restau-
rants in the city. Oysters come plucked from the aquarium,
while an open kitchen allows the pleasure of watching the
chefs at work; these guys dont miss a beat, and show off
every trick in the book as they create standout dishes like
steamed bass in banana leaf. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (32-
265z). PTAXSW
Theatro C-3, ul. Foksal 18, tel. (+48) 22 828 09 32,
www.theatro1811.com. Newcomer Theatro is easily the
most grown-up place on Warsaws busy Foksal Street.
The interiors instantl y wow - and make you reflexi vel y
smooth your attire - and show an impressive attention
to detail in everything from the stone walls to the im-
maculately set tables. Where Theatro loses steam is its
enormous menu; our waiter had to be sent away twice as
we pawed through pages of just drink choices. Fusion
seems to mean everything but the kitchen sink, and the
well-priced entrees can be hit (mix vegetable salad) and
miss (a gluey papardelle pasta). QOpen 09:00 - 23:00.
(30-54z). PTAGSW
Galician
C.K. Obera B- 4, ul. Chmielna 28, tel. (+48) 22 828
45 85, www.ckoberza.pl. Budget priced dinners, pints
of lager and a bubbly atmosphere come presented inside
a basic room decked out in dark woods. The menu is all
pork chops, potato pancakes and plates of animals, and
happil y consumed by crowds who recognize a serious
bargain. QOpen 11:00 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 23:30. (27-
68z). AGS
Georgian
Bar Gruziski Argo B-2, ul. Piwna 46, tel. (+48) 22
635 06 03. Where once was the smallest curry house in
all Poland now stands a Georgian chop house which serves
brilliant food at cracking prices. The lamb in plum sauce is
top notch, and the chinkali (Georgian dumplings) will give any
pierogi in town a run for their money. Only a handful of tables,
so reserve if you want to eat here at weekends. QOpen
13:00 - 22:00. (24-38z). GS
German
Adler C- 4, ul. Mokotowska 69, tel. (+48) 22 628 73
84, www.adlerrestauracja.pl. I ts been years si nce
Adl er was touted as a top restaurant, but those who
do vi si t wi l l fi nd j ust that. Sti l l popul ar wi th an over-40
busi ness crowd thi s ci rcul ar haunt comes l aden wi th
peasant contrapti ons, and serves up cl assi c German
reci pes presented by gi rl s dressed as Hei di. QOpen
10: 00 - 23: 30, Sat, Sun 13: 00 - 23: 30. (39- 65z).
PTA6GS
ul. Nowy wiat 23, tel. (+48) 22 826 35 01
www.buddha.info.pl
www.facebook.com/Buddha.Poland
Buddha
Indian
Restaurant
42
RESTAURANTS
43
RESTAURANTS
International
Bagno Food & Wine B-3, ul. Bagno 2, tel. (+48)
22 620 22 77, www.bagno2.pl. Bagno proves to be
full of surprises. A simpl e order of the teri yaki burger
comes with cucumer salad and potatoes ; the attentive
staff manages a bustling lunchtime trade of nearby office
workers smoothly; and what appears to be an industrial,
concrete-and-plywood dcor is accented with a series of
large photos of naked Asian women in bondage. Thrown
for a loop? You sure are, but its a good one. The menu is
short and to the point, with items like Italian bruschetta
and Asian sesame chicken blending together seamlessly.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun.
(19-37z). PTAUGSW
Bierhalle C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 64, tel. (+48) 609 67
77 65, www.bierhalle.pl. Bierhall e have 2 locations
in the city of which this is the more central. Located on
the equivalent of Warsaws main street, youll find bench
seating, generous portions of good food and a tasty range
of in-house brewed beers. Match a stein of fresh pils with
something from their picture menu which features local
favourites like pierogi, pork knuckle and kaszanka (a kind
of black pudding) as well as dishes more often associated
with Polands beer drinking neighbours; German Wurst,
Austrian Schnitzel and Hungarian Goulash. Simple, ac-
cessible and with regular promotions make this a popular
spot. Also at Al. Jana Pawa II 82 (D-1, Arkadia). QOpen
12:00 - 22:45, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:45, Sun 12:00 - 21:45.
(18-50z). PTAGSW
BrowArmia B-3, ul. Krlewska 1, tel. (+48) 22 826
54 55, www.browarmia.pl. Warsaws other microbrewery
tends to mysteriously live in the shadow of the more famous
Bierhalle, and though it fails to share the lively atmosphere of
its rival, BrowArmia is by no means second best. The interior
has a dark beer hall vibe with all the requisite pipes, dials
and tanks on display, as well as a good menu that trounces
the competition - the sticky wings pair perfectly with a Bro-
wArmia pils. More importantly the beer is top standard and
best imbibed on the seasonal terrace looking onto bustling
Krakowskie Przedmiecie. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (27-66z).
PTAEXSW
Concept C-3, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 16/18,
tel. (+48) 22 492 74 09, www.likusconceptstore.pl.
Its hard to do justice to Concept restaurant, one of the
most impressive dining experiences to be found in War-
saw. Found inside a former pre-war bathhouse this place
is accessed down a gloomy looking courtyard, flanked on
each side by kebab stands and student dives. Dont turn
back. Instead duck through the entrance to find yoursel f in
a whole di fferent world. Decorated with glazed floor tiles,
shimmery fabrics and a skylight this place looks every inch
a masterpiece. Keeping up with the surrounds is the food,
with a newly launched menu that includes a near perfect
steak. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Cl osed Sun. (29-99z).
PTAEXSW
DeCoteria H-1, ul. Zbkowska 16, tel. (+48) 603 60
22 52, www.decoteriacafe.pl. A small restaurant with a
pleasant orange interior, DeCoteria is one of the few clutter-
free locations in Praga for a meal. Thanks to that role it has
a crowd that mixes young Praga hipsters with moms toting
strollers, all tucking into a menu that seems to offer dishes
from around the globe (Hungarian-style pancakes with stew,
for a start). We stuck to the Polish fare and found the potato
pancakes to be a winner. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (16-45z).
TA6UGSW
Five A-3, ul. Grzybowska 5, tel. (+48) 793 53 53 53,
www.fiverestaurant.eu. Guaranteed a steady flow of
customers by its designer looks and top location amongst
Warsaws biggest and best hotels, this place doesnt have
to be all that good, but is. In fact, recent visits have made
us love the place all over again, as the menu of simple
Italian classics always delivers a decent meal at a fair
price. Look out for the changing specials, which on our last
trip included some terri fic grilled salmon with leek sauce.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:30, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:30. (19-49z).
PTAVGSW
Flow C-3, ul. Chmielna 2, tel. (+48) 519 30 00 68. A
light, bright cafe bar on the corner of Chmielna and Nowy
wiat, day time sees coffee and a decent choice of lunch
options served in a modern setting with large windows
offering plenty of people watching opportunities. As day
turns to night, this turns into a decent pre-club option with
guest DJs coming in to entertain the young and fashion-
able crowd. One of the few central places with an indoor
smoking area incidentally. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. (20-40z).
PAEXSW
Galeria Freta B-1, ul. Freta 39, tel. (+48) 22 831 02
35, www.galeriafreta.pl. Bar? Restaurant? Caf? A mix of
all to be honest, and a highly impressive addition to an area
more known for its tourist traps. Landmarks here include a
glass topped atrium filled with plants and posters, as well
as a more formal chamber consisting of antiques and gilt.
This place is huge, and well worth poking around, and while
the design suggests dollar signs it actually transpires to be
a very good deal. Salads are a particular forte, though more
voracious appetites should look to the king prawns. QOpen
10:00 - 22:00. (22-79z). PTAGSW
Authentic Indian and Thai cuisine
prepared by chefs from India and Thailand.
Wide range of alcoholic beverages.
Special indian and thai lunch menu from 12 pm to 4 pm
at very attractive prices.
Ample space for organising private parties
and corporate dinners.
PL. KONSTYTUCJI 3, WARSAW
For reservations please call
TEL. 22 622 94 10, MOB. 797 597 100
info@saffronspices. pl, www. saffronspices. pl
restauracja indyjska i tajska
If you have an opinion about any of the venues listed in
this guide, let the two million regular unique visitors to
our website, warsaw.inyourpocket.com, know about
it. Every venue on our website now has a function for
comments, be they critical, complimentary or comical,
so spill it.
Socjal
I was quite surprised by this place. It might sound
strange, but I almost never buy pizza out somewhere
because I am picky about crust. This place, however,
has one of the best thing crusts I have seen and tasted
in Central Eastern Europe and CISexcellent tomato
saucenot too much junk on top
Barrie, Ukraine, September 2012
U Kucharzy
The atmosphere is great like nothing we had experi-
enced before. It seemed chaotic but was very efficient.
We had a delicious three course express menu lunch
of onion soup, trout and a small sweet for the princely
sum of 30zl each.
Gai Waud, Australia, August 2012
Soul Kitchen
Place with a soul cuisine that is simple and delicious.
Really enjoyed while visiting Warsaw. It was special when
chef Andrej Polan was talking to us at the end. Will come
back when visiting Warsaw next time.
Max, United States, July 2012
Have Your Say
Bracka 9, Warsaw
tel. +48 22 310 7373
www.vitkac.com
open: mon-sun 11.00-23.00
Concept 13 is located on the top oor
of VITKAC - the rst luxury department
store in the country. The bright, modern
interior offers breathtaking views of
the capitals vibrant urban scenery. But
the architecture is not all the cuisine
will satisfy even the most discerning
gourmand. The modern international
menu with Polish traditional accents
guarantees culinary contentment.
Th
ink India ... Think Namaste India
Mon-Sat 11.00 - 22.00, Sun 12.00 - 22.00
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ul. Piwna 12/14 (Old Town)
+48 22 635 77 66
ul. Nowogrodzka 15
+48 22 357 09 39
44
RESTAURANTS
45
RESTAURANTS
Grand Kredens A- 4, Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel.
(+48) 22 629 80 08, www.kredens.com.pl. Few
pl aces i n Warsaw match thi s for a fi ne, dare we say
splendid dining experience. The decor is tremendously,
enjoyably eclectic, and the menu - with a terri fic variety
of fish (amongst much else) to savour - well up to the
challenge of its rivals. It is not by any means the cheapest
place in town, but we would be fairly certain that however
big the bill, you will leave feeling well satisfied. This has
been around Warsaw longer than we have and its a treat.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. (33-100z).
PTA6UIEGSW
GR Bistro & Restaurant B- 3, ul. Szpitalna 8
(entrance from ul. Grskiego), tel. (+48) 22 828
42 85, www.grbistro.pl. A two-l evel bi stro set on a
qui et street j ust away from the hustl e and bustl e i n the
centre of the ci ty. A smal l downstai rs area connects
to an i nti mate upstai rs wi th bl ack and whi te pri nts
on wal l s tasteful l y decorated wi th stri ped wal l paper
set above wooden pi cture rai l s. The menu i s conci se
featuri ng an i nternati onal sel ecti on of wel l -prepared
and presented di shes i ncl udi ng soups, sal ads, pastas
and meat di shes. Good as a l unch stop, where the
dai l y speci al s are wel l -worth the few euro pri ces, i t i s a
parti cul arl y recommendabl e as a pl ace for an i nti mate
meal away from the crowds of Chmi el na wi th the food
matched by a good sel ecti on of wi nes and cocktai l s.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 -
23:00. (25-54z). TA6GSW
Gwiazdeczka Jazz Zone B-2, ul. Piwna 40, tel.
(+48) 22 887 87 64, www.jazzzone.pl. A venue of
legend, with a show stealing skylight allowing diners the
privilege of dining under the stars. Can anything be more
romantic? Certainly, like the old town location for a start.
Faultlessly presented, the menu here is global in style
and every much the l ure as the j azz thats promised.
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (22-45z).
PTAEGSW
NEW
Kosmos Kosmos F- 4, ul . Koszykowa 55, tel .
(+48) 535 55 85 52, www.kosmoskosmos.pl. Do
tots and tippl es mi x? They do at Kosmos Kosmos, and
surprisingl y well. This new bar/restaurant has an entire
separate play space j ust for ki dl ets, and i ts not j ust
col ouring books and bl ocks ei ther - think ladders, sli des
and ki d-sized tabl es and chairs. This basement space
doesn t sacri fi ce on desi gn j ust because i ts ai mi ng
at famili es, so parents can retain their cool cred whil e
enj oyi ng an array of wel l -made burgers, pastas and
vegetarian dishes al ong wi th that l ong-overdue dri nk.
QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (18-30z).
TA6EGSW
Na Zielnej B-3, ul. Zielna 37, tel. (+48) 22 338 63
33, www.nazielnej.pl. You may remember this as KOM,
an old favourite housed in Warsaws former telephone
exchange. Re-branded and given a slight makeover, this
has been immediately installed as one of our fave places
in the city. There are in fact now three venues in one: a
bistro, which is open for lunch; a restaurant (both offering
the same menu of simple yet wonderfully cooked food);
and a small shop where you can buy traditional Polish
fixings like preserves and honey. Not cheap but terri fi-
cally good value, it is well worth a visit. Take a moment to
check out the remnants of the exchange on your way to
the lavatory. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (30-69z).
PTAUXSW
Piekna 56 F- 4, ul. Pikna 56, tel. (+48) 22 412
06 56, www.piekna56.pl. Nei ghbourhood restaurants
don t get more charmi ng than Pi ekna 56, a senti ment
youll agree wi th as soon as you spot the bri cks wi th ti ny
plants growing out of them that dot each birch tabl e. The
twee-ness doesn t stop there, but l et the menu distract
you; our cod coated i n sunfl ower seeds and Mexi can
torti l l a soup were l i ck-your-pl ate worthy, and the wi ne
l i st i s easi l y navi gabl e thanks to the hel pful wai t staf f.
Wed gl adl y suf fer through more bad dates i f they al l
came wi th meal s l i ke thi s one. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00,
Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (20-60z).
TAUGSW
Podwale - Kompania Piwna B-1, ul. Podwale 25,
tel. (+48) 22 635 63 14, www.podwale25.pl. Enter
via a mock Bavarian courtyard to discover a huge hall
fill ed wi th the sound of beery anti cs and oompah musi c.
The word here is size, wi th Warsaws bi ggest portions
comi ng wi thi n a whi sker of sendi ng tabl es keel i ng.
This is basi call y meat, cabbage and potatoes served
on huge wooden boards by wai tresses obviousl y l ess
fragil e than they l ook. Certai nl y the best val ue i n Ol d
Town, wi th beer usuall y playing a bi g part in the evening.
QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. (20-50z).
PTAUEGBSW
Restauracja Concept 13 C-4, ul. Bracka 9, tel. (+48)
22 310 73 73, www.vitkac.com. Tucked inside the high-
end VITKAC shopping center, Restauracja Concept 13 lives
up to its luxurious location with soaring fifth floor views of
the city and stylish design. The modern urban eatery offers
its best deals at lunch, where 50zl gets you multiple courses
of their creative cuisine - trust us, its a deal. If the weather
allows then theres no place better than the terrace, even
if its just for a cocktail. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (45-100z).
PTA6UXSW
Restaur acj a Kul tur a B- 2, ul . Kr akowski e
Przedmiecie 21/23, tel. (+48) 784 04 40 51, www.
restauracjakultura.pl. On the ground floor of the Kino
Kultura, and therefore commanding one of the greatest
locations on all Krakowskie, the Kultura makes good use
of the space by serving food that lives up to its surround-
ings. Smart waitresses wearing freshly starched aprons
will bri ng a chill ed crayfish soup to your tabl e before
presenting you with a bill that should, given quality, be far
higher. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (32-59z).
PTAEGBSW
Restauracja Wilanw ul. S. K. Potockiego 27
(Wilanw), tel. (+48) 22 842 18 52, www.res-
tauracjawilanow.com. An extraordi nar y excursi on
back to the days of a pl anned Pol i sh economy, thi s
much tal ked about cl assy restaurant serves a range
of i nternati onal and Pol i sh food i n a bl ast to the past
atmosphere. Despi te what they say about the pl ace
theres no i gnori ng the servi ce. Breathtaki ngl y snobby,
expect to be treated like somethi ng the cat dragged i n i f
youre not dressed for the opera. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00.
(32-58z). PTAGS
Restaurant @Ferdys A-3, ul. Grzybowska 24 (Radis-
son BLU Centrum Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 321 88 22, www.
ferdys.pl. A class act found on the ground floor of the Radis-
son. Veneered woods, potted plants and huge shutters lend
an atmosphere not dissimilar to the first class deck of a cross
Atlantic liner, while the steaks are reputed to be some of the
best in the city. Not a cheap indulgence, but a worthwhile
one. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (36-164z). PTAUGS
Taste the forest at Kredens
restaurant in the carpaccio
with porcini mushrooms and
goose leg with beetroot and
special przecieraki noodles.
Al. Jerozolimskie111, Warszawa
tel. 226298008
www.kredens.com.pl
kredens@kredens.com.pl
Happy Hour
From 16.00 to 18.00 enjoy a
happy hour of selected spirits and
beverages at a 50% discount
Polish tipping eti quette can be a bi t confusing for
foreigners. While in other civilized countries its normal
to say thanks when a wai ter coll ects the money,
youll be horri fied to learn that in Poland uttering the
word dzi kuj e (thank you), or even thank you i n
English, is an indication that you wont be wanting
any change back. This cultural slip-up can get very
embarrassing and expensive as the waiter/waitress
then typically does their best to play the fool and make
you feel ashamed for asking for your money back, or
conveniently disappears having pocketed all of your
change, no matter what the cost of the meal and size
of the note it was paid with. We suggest that you only
say thank you i f you are happy for the waitstaff to
keep all of the change. Otherwise we advise you to
only use the word prosz when handing back the bill
and the payment.
Despi te the fact that the average wai tress in PL onl y
makes a pal try 10-15z/hr, a customary tip is still
onl y around 10% of the meals total (though being
a forei gner may make staf f expectant of a bi t more
generosi ty). As such, we encourage you to reward
good servi ce when you feel i ts deserved. Fi nal l y,
i t is not common to add the tip to your credi t card
payment because wai tstaf f are forced to then pay
tax on the gratui ty; most likel y you will not even be
abl e to l eave a tip on your card. Have some change
handy so you can still l eave a cash tip, or ask your
server for change.
Tipping Tribulations
46
RESTAURANTS
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RESTAURANTS
students who flock here for coffee after lectures. By night
the crowd gets trendier as local arty-types turn up to be seen
eating the well-priced food through the glass walls. QOpen
12:00 - 01:00. (18-45z). PTAUEGBSW
Socjal C-3, ul. Foksal 18, tel. (+48) 601 31 89 66. Socjal
comes with excellent pedigree - its the creation of the folks be-
hind 12 Stolikow, which was named one of the top 5 restaurants
in the city last year. Socjal is another win for this crew, boasting
a rotating menu of Italian entrees and salads (prosciutto and
melon for the win) that diners order via the restaurants chalk-
board. The communal tables force diners to be socjal with their
neighbours, an asset when you see a delicious plate and want
to casually ask, Whats that? QOpen 11:00 - 04:00, Mon,
Tue, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. (28-68z). PAGBS
NEW
Solec 44 ul. Solec 44, tel. (+48) 798 36 39 96, www.
solec.waw.pl. Solec 44 marries two of the best things
around at one location: delicious food and the joy of beating
the crap out of your friends at board games. Come for the
grub - which is a delectable menu of fresh, local and seasonal
options plus hearty sandwiches - but stay for the chance to
crack into Settlers of Catan or Scrabble with a beer in hand.
The space itself (which can be tough to find and is tucked
behind a kebab shop) is sprawling and ideal for long evenings
of dice rolling, especially when the sun cruelly sets at 16:00.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Mon 16:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat, Sun
12:00 - 24:00. (26-79z). PTA6XSW
Soul Kitchen F-4, ul. Noakowskiego 16 lok. 27, tel.
(+48) 519 02 08 88, www.soulkitchen.pl. Soul Kitchens
aim is to stir emotions and touch souls with their cooking.
Corny? Indeed. But tasting is believing, and this straightfor-
ward menu makes a good case for the power of simple cook-
ing. Dont skip the soup, which is where we first fell in love, and
from there its impossible to go wrong as the seasonal menu
changes often and innovatively. The interior is a stark chic
that will initially strike diners as cold, but a spot in the garden
quickly cures that assessment. The lunch special, available
from 12:00-16:00, is comprised of soup, a main and dessert
and is a steal at just 25zl. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00
- 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (38-67z). TAEGSW
STO900 H-3, ul. Solec 18/20, tel. (+48) 787 69 62
41, www.1500m2.com. Any time a chef will hold up what
hes making - in this case wiggling a kluski kadzione, a type
of doughy Polish dumpling without filling, in the air - to explain
what youre ordering then you can feel good about where
youre dining. STO900 has the appearance of a student
clubhouse with mismatched furniture, a glass rack made
of hangers and a bumping Bob Marley soundtrack, but the
menu is surprisingly grown up. Options are limited to the
few dishes the aforementioned chef is making that day (our
choice was ribs, the dumplings or a carrot-lemon soup) but
he clearly thrives when not dividing his focus. QOpen 10:00
- 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. (15-50z). TA6GSW
Tamka 43 C-3, ul. Tamka 43, tel. (+48) 22 441 62
34, www.tamka43.pl. Location, location, location. You
could probably open a dive serving tripe soup and nothing
else and be successful here (here being opposite the Cho-
pin Museum), but Tamka 43 would be brilliant anywhere.
Modern and bright without overdoing it, by day its coffee
and cakes, mums and kids, (there is a lunch option too) by
night its serious drinks, light meals and well dressed smooth-
ies. We love it to bits. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (49-120z).
PTAUGSW
Villa Foksal C-3, ul. Foksal 3/5, tel. (+48) 22 827 87
16, www.restauracjavillafoksal.pl. Villa Foksal has long
had a name for good food and is a smart, modernish eatery
found on one of Warsaws sexiest streets. Presentation is
faultless, the cooking excellent and the menu an inventive
interpretation of standard European finds. QOpen 12:00 -
23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (34-72z). PAGSW
You & Me C-4, ul. urawia 6/12, tel. (+48) 22 379 03
79, www.youandmebar.pl. The narrow as hell yet shaded
and glorious terrace is the top draw here in the warmer
months while they also make a half-decent stab at an English
breakfast. The lunchtime menu is top value, although we
question their claim to serve the cheapest beer in Poland
(have they been to Lublin). At night You & Me becomes a
rather trendy bar that fills up with no tie, coloured-shirted
types from the media companies whose offices line this
street. Come prepared to do and talk business and you will
love the place. QOpen 08:30 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.
(39-65z). PTABXSW
Italian
Festa Italiana Ristorante B- 4, ul. Hoa 27a, tel.
(+48) 516 61 61 06, www.festaitaliana.eu. We know
we shouldnt fall for it, but Festa Italiana had us at waitress
wearing an Italian flag skirt. Throw in a glossy menu that
features three languages (Polish, English and Italian) and
theres no excuse for not having a large dollop of marinara
somewhere on your clothes before the night is through.
The pizzas taste wood-fired (though theres no such oven
in sight) and have a crisp Roman-style crust that makes it
easy to eat an entire pie yourself. The creamy carbonara,
highly recommended by our flag-draped waitress, proved to
be just as worthy as the pizza. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat,
Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (35-60z). AGS
Bar Mleczny Familijny C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 39,
tel. (+48) 22 826 45 79. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat,
Sun 09:00 - 17:00. (3-13z). PUGS
Leniwa Gospodyni F-4, ul. Nowowiejska 12/18,
tel. (+48) 22 825 44 23, www.leniwagospodyni.pl.
(10-25z). AGS
Mleczarnia Jerozolimska C-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 32,
tel. (+48) 602 38 17 34. This new milk bar has the dcor
to look modern, but all the classic staples of a traditional
milk bar - bitchy staff, a dead bug in our drink, not enough
tables - to feel like a Communist-era classic. Mleczarnia
Jerozolimska is consistently busy, something we chalk up to
location more than anything else. Our pierogis never material-
ized (anything not on hand behind the small counter is sent
down via a food elevator) though the borscht and giant salad
were both serviceable. Also at ul. Bagatela 15 (G-5). QOpen
10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (6-12z). PUGS
Wiking C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 28, tel. (+48) 22 828
06 44, www.restauracjewiking.pl. A modern take on
the often-dumpy milk bar, Wiking offers a spread of Polish
staples in helpings bigger than your head. Simply point to
the pile of meat or bursting veggie pancake you desire and
the cheery maids will toss it in the oven for a warm-up before
slapping it on an awaiting tray. The Nowy wiat location
means Wiking does a brisk business even though the food
skews towards the bland. QOpen 07:30 - 21:30, Sat 09:00
- 21:30, Sun 10:00 - 20:30. (11-34z). PTAGS
Milk bars
Restro A-4, ul. Paska 57, tel. (+48) 22 620 22 66,
www.restro.pl. As you may have noticed some central
Warsaw streets have a habit of ending abruptly before re-
appearing again sometimes hundreds of metres away on
the other side of a busy road. Bear this in mind when you
hunt down Restro, a cafe restaurant that is a favoured lunch
spot of ours, which can be found to the south-east of the
UN roundabout (Rondo ONZ). The changing menu features
offers a choice of excellently priced set menus and dishes
with a distinct Mediterranean feel. The tagiolini with scampi
and coriander is a steal at around 6 euros although we often
have a dilemma between that and one of the salads, the beef
and spinach being another winner. Recommended but mind
the opening hours. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 20:00,
Sun 13:00 - 18:00. (18-39z). PTAUVGS
SAM Restaurant & Bakery C-2, ul. Lipowa 7a, tel.
(+48) 600 80 60 84, www.sam.info.pl. Fresh baked bread,
plentiful salads, a shop with organic herbs and superfoods
like acai...its safe to say that SAM has arrived in Warsaw with
some strong credentials, and after our visit we can declare
it the Charlotte of the student set. Youll find the same lacka-
daisical service and hipster clientele as the popular Pl. Zba-
wiciela hotspot, and if you can overlook these flaws youll be
delighted with healthy dishes that ensure youll forever be able
to squeeze into those skinny jeans. QOpen 08:30 - 23:00,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. (14-35z). TA6UGSW
Skwer - filia Centrum Artystycznego Fabryka
Trzciny B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 60a, tel.
(+48) 508 36 58 49, www.fabrykatrzciny.pl. If location
is everything then Skwer is the place to be. Commanding a
prime spot on Krakowskie Przedmiescie a stones throw from
the presidential place it looks like an architects show-home
yet manages to create a decent atmosphere thanks to the
48
RESTAURANTS
49
RESTAURANTS
Il Patio A- 4, ul. Zota 59 (Zote Tarasy), tel. (+48)
602 19 87 26, www.ilpatio.pl. Zote Tarasy isn t your
average mal l, so why di ne on the standard fast food
fi xes? I l Pati o si ts next to the mal ls monstrous movi e
theatre and has i mpressi ve vi ews of the bustl i ng ci ty
bel ow. But our focus was on the pi zzas, whi ch are at
thei r best when they aren t especi al l y I tal i an (l i ke the
BBQ and Messi cana versi ons) and the l arge chunks
of l asagna come coated i n a heal thy l ayer of mel ted
cheese. Shoppers wi th tots i n tow wi l l appreci ate the
ki ds menu. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00.
(30-45z). PTAUGSW
La Tomatina F-3, ul. Krucza 47, tel. (+48) 22 625 10
47, www.latomatina.pl. La Tomatinas enormous menu
of Italian dishes can best be described as Bacchanalian;
how else do you describe an orgy of nearl y 40 pizzas
and 24 pasta choi ces? The pasta is all freshl y made
in-house, which automatically gives every noodle dish a
tasty boost. We doubt theres an item in the kitchen that
La Tomatina hasnt put on their pizzas, and we especially
liked the spicy slap of the diavola, which packs chilli oil,
jalapenos, peppers and spicy salami onto one fiery pie.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (21-47z).
PTA6VEGSW
Roma G- 5, ul. Belwederska 17 / ul. Grottgera 2,
tel. (+48) 22 841 01 33, www.restauracjaroma.
pl. Attenti on to detai l i s apparent at Roma, and ev-
er y aspect of thi s secreti ve restaurant hi nts at the
nei ghbourhood l ocal es youd fi nd i n the si de al l eys of
I tal y. The i nteri or i s i nti mate, wi th si l ver ware resti ng
on ci nnamon sti cks and pi l es of cri spy breadsti cks on
ever y tabl e. The menu i tsel f i s encycl opaedi c - - were
tal ki ng three pages of pastas - - enabl i ng Roma to
bui l d a l oyal fan base across the years. Were fans of
the Neapol i tan soup, especi al l y on rai ny days, and i f
you l i ke stri ngs of mozzarel l a dangl i ng from your l i ps
were fai rl y cer tai n you wi l l too. QOpen 12: 00 - 23: 00,
Sat 13: 00 - 23: 00, Sun 14: 00 - 21: 00. (25- 63z ).
PTAUGBSW
Roma Bukieteria C- 4, ul. Mokotowska 49a, tel.
(+48) 22 621 03 11, www.restauracjaroma.pl. Pasta
might be the kind of thing youre used to gorging on, but not
here. Roma Bukieteria is all romantic atmosphere - - think
candles, terracotta and heavy wood tables - - so bring
your best manners and your latest date. The only place
with a larger selection of pasta has to be Rome itsel f, so
take your time when sorting through the massive menu. It
may look like a small trattoria, but the wine list suggests
seasoned pros who will ensure a charming date. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 14:00 - 21:00.
(25-63z). PTAGSW
Trattoria Rucola B-2, ul. Miodowa 1, tel. (+48)
888 57 54 57, www.trattoriarucola.pl. Trattori a
Rucol a has taught us a si mpl e truth: wed surel y eat
more sal ads i f they al l came wi th smoky bacon. The
smel l of garl i c wafti ng onto Krakowski e Przedmi esci e
wi l l undoubtedl y l ure you i n, the strange l eafy dcor
wi l l encourage you to grab a tabl e and the hefty menu
of I tal i an stapl es wi l l mean a certai n bel t-l ooseni ng.
Thi r t y pi zzas domi nate the menu, but we were i n-
tri gued by the rare si ghti ng of doughy cal zones. The
aforementi oned sal ads are soaked i n a l ush bal sami c
dressi ng that no one shoul d be ashamed to l i ck from
thei r fi ngers (we di d). Al so at H-3, ul. Francuska 6 and
C-4, ul. Krucza 6/14. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (20-55z).
PTAVGSW
Japanese
We could quite easily have a guide with only sushi restaurants
such has been the explosion of them in recent years. This
is a selection of the places we feel you ought to know about
but you are likely to find somewhere serving sushi in every
major mall these days.
77 Sushi A-4, ul. Sienna 83, tel. (+48) 22 890 18 11,
www.sushi77.com. The number 77 might well refer to the
number of sushi stops in town - in fact, it says a lot about
the city that its now easier to find sushi than it is a cabbage.
Youre guaranteed the real deal in Sushi 77, where imaginative
sets - try the California rolls, or even the hot sushi - come
chopped and sliced inside an attractive interior. Some
outlets offer local delivery. Also at (F-4), ul. Polna 48A, Open
12:00-22:30, Al. KEN 49 (Ursynw), Open 12:00-22:30 and
ul. Sawoja-Skadkowskiego 4 (Ursus, CH Skorosze), Open
11:00-22:00, Sun 11:00-21:00. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30.
(29-49z). PTAGSW
Besuto C- 3, ul. Nowy wiat 27, tel. (+48) 22 828
00 20, www.besuto.pl. Besuto has moved from among
the prefab cabins and ramshackl e pavilions inside Nowy
wiat 22 to a more visi bl e l ocation j ust down the street
at 27. The good news is the sushi, whi ch has histori call y
been very decent hot and col d cuts prepared in front of
your eyes, is still reliably delicious, and the new storefront
is si gni fi cantl y l ess likel y to make your date questi on
your commi tment - - the i nteri or al so gets marks for
being bri ght and modern. The bad news is that a bet-
ter l ocation means hi gher pri ces than Besuto l oyalists
mi ght be used to, but i ts worth i t to di g a li ttl e deeper.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (30-65z).
PTA6VGSW
Bonsai E-2, ul. Grzybowska 5a, tel. (+48) 22 620
88 22, www.sushibonsai.pl. A wel l -prepared and
good sel ecti on of sushi served by a pol i te bl ack-cl ad
staf f keeps thi s pl ace busy parti cul arl y duri ng the day
when the surroundi ng of fi ce crowd are meeti ng for
l unch. The sushi i s good and there i s al so a choi ce of
hot dishes to choose from whil e you enj oy your Japanese
cocktail ami dst the modern surroundi ngs. Our eel sushi
and pl um cocktai l made for a refreshi ng l unch snack
whil e the sketches of Japanese women on the wall l eft a
l ot to the i magi nati on. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (28-54z).
PTAUGSW
Inaba B- 4, ul. Nowogrodzka 84/86, tel. (+48) 22
622 59 55, www.inaba.pl. Heres a restaurant that was
around years before sushi became a fashion statement.
Japanese owned and run everything about Inaba stri ves
for authenti ci ty, and this is one of onl y three places in
town that can claim a Japanese master chef calling the
shots in the ki tchen. A pl easantl y panell ed interior cre-
ates a great atmosphere and those who want more than
j ust raw fish shoul d take a l ook at the grill dishes (be
sure to try the duck). QOpen 11:30 - 22:00. (20-60z).
PTAGSW
Kaya Sushi A-3, ul. Grzybowska 30, tel. (+48) 22
620 50 25, www.kayasushi.pl. Not the most obvious
venue for a sushi restaurant - underneath a giant block
tucked from the traffic - but Kaya are known as being a bit
of an open secret among the sushi grapevine. The fish is
great (isnt it everywhere in Warsaw nowadays?), so what
sets this venue apart is a strong line in Korean options
that never disappoint. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (25-90z).
PTAUGSW
Bar Salad Story B-4, ul. Zota 59 (Zote Tarasy),
tel. (+48) 883 64 44 45, www.saladstory.com. Fast
food gets the health treatment in Salad Story, a chain of
outlets serving salads, sandwiches and soups. Also at
(C-4) ul. Krucza 41/43, (C-4) ul. Nowy wiat 18/20 and
(F-4) ul. Polna 46. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 -
21:00. (10-23z). PAUGS
Burger King A-4, ul. Zota 59 (Zote Tarasy), tel.
(+48) 713 86 15 88, www.burgerking.com.pl. Also
at Al. Jana Pawa II 82 (D-1, Arkadia). QOpen 09:00 -
22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. (15-22z). PAUGSW
Groole C-3, ul. niadeckich 8, tel. (+48) 795 63 36
26, www.groole.pl.QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00
- 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 20:00. (6-17z). TA6GSW
KFC C-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 11/19, tel. (+48) 713 86
16 90, www.kfc.pl. Also at (B-4) ul. Widok 26, (A-4, Zote
Tarasy) ul. Zota 59, (F-4) ul. Pikna 28/34 and (A-2) Al.
Solidarnoci 68 A. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 -
02:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. (12-18z). PTAUGSW
McDonalds B-3, ul. Marszakowska 126-134, tel.
(+48) 694 49 60 15, www.mcdonalds.pl. Various
locations including ul. Zota 59 (A-4, Zote Tarasy), Al.
Jerozolimskie/ Jana Pawa II, pawilon 64, WPP (Warszawa
Centralna; A-4) and Al. Solidarnoci 117 (A-2). Breakfast
served in selected branches till 10:30 during the week
and 11:00 at weekends. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
07:00 - 05:00. (15-17z). PTAGSW
MG Eat Magda Gessler C-3, ul. Chmielna 32,
tel. (+48) 22 827 47 13, www.mgeat.pl. Polish
celebrity chef Magda Gessler brings her upscale dishes
to the masses with this fast food establishment that
pushes salads constructed with exacting precision that
would make Gessler proud but can take ages if youre in
a rush. The shops half-sandwiches are criminally small
though evilly delicious. And the brightly-colored modern
restaurant also boasts heaps of desserts, most interest-
ingly frozen yogurt - something weve seen nowhere else
in ice cream-loving Poland. Also at ul. Krlewska 2 (C-3,
entrance from ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie). QOpen
10:00 - 22:00. (6-23z). PTA6UGSW
Pizza Hut B- 4, ul. Widok 26 (entrance from ul.
Chmielna), tel. (+48) 71 386 15 23, www.pizzahut.
pl. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. (15-
50z). PTAUGSW
Royal Menu, tel. (+48) 22 244 21 21, www.
royalmenu.pl. A food, wine and flower delivery service
with English-speaking operators and a choice of over 50
restaurant menus to choose from (think Polish food from
Polka to sushi from Rice Field). Place an order over the
phone or online and theyll have the food delivered piping
hot to your door in special containers in no time at all.
Subway C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 24, tel. (+48) 22 828
40 25, www.swiezo.pl. Also at (B-4) Al. Jerozolimskie
31, (A-4, Zote Tarasy) ul. Zota 59, (F-4) ul. Polna 54,
(A-3) Al. Jana Pawa II 18, (B-2) ul. witojaska 15/17
and ul. Mickiewicza 27/ Pl. Wilsona (oliborz) . QOpen
08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 02:00, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun
10:00 - 23:00. (7-18z). PAUGBSW
Fast Food & Delivery
50
RESTAURANTS
51
RESTAURANTS
Kiku Japanese Dining Gallery B-2, ul. Senatorska
17/19, tel. (+48) 22 892 09 01, www.kiku.pl. Our advice
when coming to this typically Japan-in-a-packet decorated
place is simple: forget the sushi and just ask for the noodle
menu. Never before in this city have we eaten such fresh,
spicy and downright tasty noodles as we have at Kiku. At
around 25z a bowl, a portion of noodles here - and the
seafood ones are best - represents terrific value. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. (25-95z). PTAUVGSW
NEW
Kintaro Sushi B-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 38, tel. (+48) 22
881 78 51. This location on Nowogrodzka is like a black
hole for restaurants, with previous tenants including French
and Asian ventures. Now it has moved on to a Korean/sushi
amalgamation that leaves us less than optimistic that the
space wont once again be changing hands. The Korean
grill option, while unique, requires an advanced order - so
dont roll up with a craving - and the sushi is average even
by Warsaw standards. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (25-50z).
PAUGSW
OTO!SUSHI F-3, ul. Nowy wiat 46, tel. (+48) 22
828 00 88, www.oto-sushi.pl. One of our favorite sushi
spots in Warsaw. Sure, the location helps - who can argue
with sitting outside on swanky Nowy wiat? - but the helpful
staff, great tea options and fair prices put it squarely on
top. A vegetarian sushi set for two with 22 pieces ranging
from kappa maki to inari was tops, and the tempura is
crispy rather the soggy we often encounter. Ducking in for
a lunch special will get you heaps of fresh sushi along with
miso soup, a salad and green tea for a reasonable price.
The small storefront means you may have to fight for a
seat, though. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00.
(20-60z). PTAVGSW
Planet Sushi A- 4, ul. Zota 59 (Zote Tarasy), tel.
(+48) 602 19 87 26, www.planetsushi.pl. Sushi? In a
mall? We know, we had the very same thoughts. But step
away from the burger chains and suspend your disbelief
long enough to enjoy Planet Sushi and stereotypes will be
shattered. Planet Sushi offers one of the better arrays of
sets weve seen, and the Philadelphia roll was pure salmony
goodness. If your mind hasnt been completely blown at this
point then order the dessert sushi - sweet rice wrapped
around fresh fruit with a coconut cream sauce. Sushi in a
mall! QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (30-69z).
PTAUGSW
Sushi To E- 3, Al. Jerozolimskie 109, tel. (+48) 22
625 66 03, www.sushito.pl. Yes, sushi is ri ght there
in the name, and youll find pl enty of creati ve sets to
choose from and some of the best ni giri weve had, but
our favouri te parts of the Sushi To menu don t come
i n roll form. The sal ad wi th fresh pi neappl e and fri ed
shrimp is a standout, and the same can be sai d for the
shrimp tempura. But i f sushi is what youre after hi t up
l unch, where you can choose from three sizes (small,
medium, large) of specials that set you back just 22-32z.
QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (19-44z).
PAVGSW
Tomo Sushi C- 4, ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. (+48) 22
434 23 44, www.tomo.pl. Many claim you wont find
better sushi in Warsaw, and who are we to argue with the
masses. Tomos reputation is well earned, and as such
dont be surprised to be knocking elbows with sushi snobs
showing off deft chopstick moves. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (45-95z).
PTA6UGBSW
An exceptional restaurant in the
most beautiful park in Warsaw
Belvedere Restaurant
ul. Agrykoli 1
Free car-park from Parkowa street
tel.: +48 22 55 86 700, +48 606 102 002
restauracja@belvedere.com.pl
www.belvedere.com.pl
Kosher
Rambam Kosher Cafe & Restaurant A-3, ul. Grzy-
bowska 4, tel. (+48) 22 243 26 93, www.rambamres-
taurant.pl. Make no mistake about it, Rambam is certified
kosher; in fact, they post their certificate (courtesy of Rabbi
Osher Yaakov Westheim of Manchester, United Kingdom) right
on the door. Inside youll find a menu that skews Middle Eastern,
with flavourful dishes like grilled eggplant and tahini offered as a
starter and mains like spicy beef tajjiin with couscous. The only
drawback to Rambam, which has some of the most attentive
waiters weve encountered, is that your tasty plates cant be
accompanied by alcoholic beverages as they have yet to land
a liquor license. Note that in October and November Rambam
will open on Saturdays after sunset. QOpen 15:00 - 23:00, Fri
11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat. (39-79z). PTAUGSW
Lebanese
Le Cedre 84 A-3, Al. Solidarnoci 84, tel. (+48) 22 618
89 99, www.lecedre.pl. This popular Middle Eastern staple
hops across the river to a more accessible location at the
intersection of Jana Pawa and al. Solidarnoci and thankfully
brings all their reliably exotic flavours along too. The interior is
a magenta masterpiece and sets the scene for you and your
Scheherazade to explore the hefty menu. Our recommendation:
though were fans of the entrees like shawarma your best bet
is to mix and match hot and cold starters, of which theres a
dazzling array (stuffed grape leaves and grilled halloumi top our
list). QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (32-59z). PTAUGSW
Mediterranean
Olive Garden A-3, ul. Pereca 2, tel. (+48) 22 624 01 91,
www.restauracjaolivegarden.com. No need to squirm, this
isnt the bland Olive Garden chain youre familiar with. Rather, this
Olive Garden brings a decidedly exotic brand of dishes to War-
saw in the form of Mediterranean and Middle Eastern cuisine
like homemade pita bread and sweet kunafeh. For 20zl you can
nab a lunch special of an appetiser (we suggest the house-made
hummus), entree and dessert, all delivered in lightning speed
to the hungry be-suited crowds. The available summer garden
and sheesha pipes means Olive Garden is also a promising
post-work spot to unwind. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 -
23:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. (20-50z). PTAEBXSW
Paros B-3, ul. Jasna 14/16A, tel. (+48) 22 828 10 67,
www.paros-restauracja.pl. Paros is the first and last place in
Warsaw where a waiter pulled out our chair and helped us with
our coat - - colour us charmed by the gallantry. That attention
carried over to the meal, with Greek staples like hefty salads
and bite-sized spanakopitas as well as hybrid Greek burgers for
the carnivores, all imparting the taste of the Mediterranean. The
restaurant itself is so large it can be half filled with customers
and still seem spacious, even with a packed white wraparound
bar in the middle of the room. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat
11:00 - 24:00. (32-86z). PTAUEGSW
Mongolian
Cesarski Paac (Tsinghis Chan) B-2, ul. Senatorska 27,
tel. (+48) 22 827 97 07, www.cesarski-palac.com.pl. A base-
ment grill where diners line up at food stations, pile ingredients into
a bowl before handing it over for a Mongolian chef to cook - either
in a wok or on a Hibachi grill. Theres plenty to choose from, and in
the best traditions of East Asian cooking the cuts of meat are lean,
mean with not a slither of fat to be seen. Perhaps thats why its rare
to spot a Polish diner. Fifty five zloty gets you all you can eat, which
sounds a pretty fair deal to us. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:30
- 23:00, Sun 12:30 - 22:00. (29-65z). PTAGBSW
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ul. Hoa 27a , Warszawa
Tel/Fax. 516 616 106
festaitaliana@wp.pl
www.festaitaliana.eu
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52
RESTAURANTS
53
RESTAURANTS
menu includes such must-haves as saddle of rabbit with
pumpkin seeds, buckwheat, broad bean pure and asparagus.
Has Polish cuisine ever sounded so exciting? Of course, such
pleasures arent cheap, but then neither are they in the astro-
nomic zone youd be likely to presume. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00,
Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (69-89z). PTAGSW
Atelier Amaro G-4, ul. Agrykola 1, tel. (+48) 22 628
57 47, www.atelieramaro.pl. Its not hyperbole to call
Atelier Amaro one of Polands most modern restaurants, with
famed chef Wojciech Modest Amaro describing the cuisine as
where nature meets science. That science is molecular
gastronomy, which means almost nothing is as it seems: an
amuse-bouche arrives on the table with a flourish of dry ice
fog, revealing caviar atop a surprisingly citrusy foam. Meals
can be 3, 5 or 8 moments (what us regular folks call courses)
and employ traditional Polish plants like nettles and beetroot
in unexpected, highly creative dishes - like juniper ice cream
hugging a miniature chocolate cake with chestnuts (with
dishes changing almost daily, your menu will undoubtedly be
different). Count us as impressed that Amaro himself can be
seen serving many of the dishes in this intimate restaurant
just inside azienki Park. An absolute must for diehard foodies.
Q Open 12:00 - 14:30, 18:00 - 22:30, Sat 15:00 - 22:30,
Mon 18:00 - 22:30. Closed Sun. (145-280z). PAUGW
Belvedere G- 5, ul. Agrykoli 1 (New Orangery in
azienki Park (enter from ul. Parkowa), tel. (+48) 22
558 67 00, www.belvedere.com.pl. Nestl ed i nsi de
azienki Park, Belvedere is a romantic orangery filled with
foliage and a smattering of well-dressed tables both inside
and out. Although the landscaping is undergoing renovation,
Belvedere is still a dramatic venue with peacocks wandering
the grounds and multiple waiters offering first class service.
The food lives up to the atmosphere, and diners can choose
between a Polish or international menu that includes beef
cheeks with jus sauce and vegetables.(a top recommenda-
tion) and exotic desserts like zabaglione (we hear the menu
is set to change soon, though). Few places in Warsaw are this
classy or this expensive, and dare we say women are right
to assume a booking here means something big is in order.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (49-108z). PTAEGSW
Bistro Pita wiartka B-2, Pl. Zamkowy 4, tel. (+48)
22 355 56 85, www.kregliccy.pl/piataCwiartka.php.
Adding a touch of class to the Old Town dining experience
is Pita wiartka, a sublime looking hall with vaulted brick
ceilings and arched glass windows. The castle location just
screams tourist trap, and while it cant be doubted theyre
chasing the museum crowd, it must be said that tourist food
has never tasted this good before. Opt for dishes like the calf
in fig and brandy sauce, but beware of the opening times
- themselves structured around the castle hours. QOpen
12:00 - 21:30. Closed Mon. (32-45z). PTAUGSW
Bistro Warszawa B-2, ul. Jezuicka 1/3, tel. (+48) 22
635 37 69, www.bistrowarszawa.pl. Proof that not every
restaurant on the Old Town square has to be a kitschy Polish
throwback comes in the form of stylish Bistro Warszawa, where
soothing whites and greys - - and not a knick-knack in site - - offer
a modern oasis in the heart of the city. The menu is similarly
forward-thinking, with pre-war Polish cuisine with marinated
herring in truffle oil and a crisp pear and walnut salad. And while
the atmosphere (and the regular jazz performances) suggest an
upscale experience, dont be afraid to order the more pedestrian
Bistro burger, which comes complete with a paper cone of french
fries. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (28-43z). PTA6GSW
Chopskie Jado F-4, Pl. Konstytucji 1 (entrance from
ul. Waryskiego), tel. (+48) 22 339 17 17, www.chlo-
pskiejadlo.pl. If youve been dying to try Polands traditional
lard spread called smalec then this is your place. A nationwide
chain devoted to serving rustic Polish food from the countryside,
Chopskie Jado dishes up heaping portions of meat and pierogis
on wooden slabs, with a dish of smalec and wedges of bread
complimentary. The dcor is country farm kitsch, with strings of
hams and ancient machinery dangling from the walls. Slide onto
a wooden bench (avoiding the decorative rusty saw) and start
with local soups served inside a loaf of bread before loosening
the belt and working through homemade dumplings and shanks
of meat served by staff that appears as if theyve just finished
milking cows. A winning intro to Polish food. QOpen 12:00 -
24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (18-50z). PTA6UGS
Delicja Polska F-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 45,
tel. (+48) 22 826 47 70, www.delicjapolska.pl. One of the
top eats around, set to a swish country manor background of
chintz, flowers and candles. Enjoy duck with apple pancakes
while aproned staff cater to your whim and fancy in what is
set to be one of the premier dining experiences on the royal
route. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (39-76z). PTAGSW
Dom Polski H-3, ul. Francuska 11, tel. (+48) 22 616
24 32, www.restauracjadompolski.pl. Much ink has
been spilt over the virtues of Dom Polski, some of it in these
pages, but there is no getting away from the fact that this
is a good restaurant. Found in a discreet villa on Warsaws
millionaires row you can expect Rolls Royce service from
the minute you walk in. The food is equally good, chosen
from a menu which is mercifully short, with just a couple of
starters and several main courses to choose from; how it
should be, in other words. We went for the urek followed by
the potato pancakes with smoked salmon and red caviar,
and couldnt fault a thing. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (35-98z).
PTAUGSW
Polish
There are basically three ways you can experience the Polish
dining experience. The cheapest is at one of the surprisingly
large number of surviving communist era Milk Bars, which you
can read about elsewhere. Then there are the chains of country
cottage style places which turn out Polish staples of rye soup,
stuffed dumplings and heaps of meat and veg in gut-busting
portions. The third form is still a relatively new one and involves
a growing number of young, world-class chefs using their talents
to bring Polish cuisine into the 21st century. We can happily rec-
ommend all three forms depending on the occasion. Take a look
at the places listed here to give you an idea of which is which.
99 Restaurant & Bar A-3, Al. Jana Pawa II 23, tel.
(+48) 22 620 19 99, www.restaurant99.com. A fixture
on the Warsaw dining scene for over ten years and still going
strong in the local corporate lunch trade. An updated design
which is space age white and rather dashing compliments
a highly-recommended, global menu which includes whats
possibly the best steak in Warsaw. Located within a stones
throw of some of the citys finest hotels, this is one of the
most reliable places in town from breakfast through to supper
whether youre socialising, doing business or a bit of both.
QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Fri 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 15:00 - 24:00,
Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (37-124z). PTAUXSW
Amber Room G-4, Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. (+48) 22
523 66 64, www.kprb.pl. Set inside the Sobaski Palace
what was (and indeed still is) the domain of the Polish Business
Round Table Club has now opened its doors to the paying
public. From the outside it looks the sort of place youd see
Prince Charles walking around shaking hands, though inside,
and in spite of the marble and chandeliers, its a well designed
area with more than a nod to modernist touches. The seasonal
Old Town Square / ul. Jezuicka
tel.: +48 (22) 635 37 69
mob. +48 501 438 007
www.bistrowarszawa.pl
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54
RESTAURANTS
Folk Gospoda E-2, ul. Walicw 13, tel. (+48) 22
890 16 05, www.folkgospoda.pl. Far from promising on
the outside, Folk Gospoda unravels on entry as a glorious
slice of traditional Poland. Its inside a rugged interior of
stout furnishings and ceramic pots youll find boys and
girls in peasant attire rushing around carrying plates of
forti fying Polish food (think heaps of duck). Indeed, the
Polish highlands meet the city inside Gospoda, and thats
never more so than when the band strikes up to hoot and
holler over the sound of busy diners. I f youre lucky enough
to have a friend, then order the meat platter for two, a
death by eating affair that will have your shirt buttons
pinging off in no time. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (26-69z).
PTAUIGSW
Halka restauracja po polsku E-3, ul. Paska 85,
tel. (+48) 22 652 81 02, www.restauracjahalka.pl.
Named after one of Polands best loved operas Halka takes
its name seriously; interiors here have been painstakingly
designed to mimic a 19th century country manor, a clear
nod to Stanisaw Moniuszkos popular script. Dripping with
elegance and lordly touches this is upmarket Polish food at its
best. And despite what the well-done interior might suggest,
they even have a childrens corner. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00.
(16-62z). PTAUGSW
Kaprys C-4, ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. (+48) 22 578 22
32, www.restauracjakaprys.pl. In a word: swank. Dont
believe us? You can spot a Bentley dealership from your
table. Kaprys draws a clientele of nearby businessmen
who know the importance of a well-cut suit, yet the service
is universally attentive even if youre, say, a scruffy writer.
Captains of industry cut deals during the lunch special, which
spans three courses but doesnt dent the wallet - - you can
easily still put in your payment on that Bentley. The decor is
modern sparse which can read as cold, but dive into the menu
and you wont be sorry. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (32-110z).
PTA6XSW
Literatka B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 87/89
(second entrance - ul. Senatorska 3), tel. (+48) 22
827 30 54, www.literatka.com.pl. Located in the shad-
ow of Zygmunts column on the Warsaws poshest street,
Li teratka is a tradi tional Polish restaurant wi th a cosy
feel and an impressive range of Polski and international
dishes. Pierogi, pork and duck all make an appearance
as well as a more than acceptable sirloin steak before
finishing with what the menu describes as apples in a
bathrobe with strawberry mousse. Its not bad at all and
a suitable way to finish a day ploughing the tourist trail in
the adjacent old town. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (30-70z).
PTA6IEXSW
Masz Gulasz F- 4, ul. Pikna 15, tel. (+48) 22
370 25 50. We thought i t was a ri sk of cel ebri ty chef
Magda Gessl er to open a new restaurant so cl ose to
her most recent venture, the wonder ful and i nnovati ve
Sony. And whil e di ners have yet to embrace thi s homey
spot speci al i si ng i n pi pi ng hot goul ashes l i ke they have
Sony, Gessl er doesn t di sappoi nt wi th her take on thi s
popul ar Pol i sh speci al ty. Tradi ti onal opti ons l i ke pork
and sauerkraut pack a fi l l i ng punch, whi l e the chi cken,
dri ed tomato and spi nach versi on actual l y makes
the di sh feel surpri si ngl y l i ght - - not somethi ng youd
normal l y say about a stew. Though the i nteri or feel s a
l i ttl e tri te ( j ars of grai ns and pi ckl ed sundri es as decor
has been done to death) i t thankful l y doesn t i mpede
i ngesti on. Heres hopi ng some of S onys l uck rubs
of f on Masz Gul asz. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (10-42z).
PTA6UGSW
A passion for cooking is one
of the greatest talents that people
can bring to the world.
It is from this passion that our
restaurant can bring visitors to the
fragrant lemongrass and coconut milk
of Thailand...to the star anise and
cinnamon of China...to the spicy,
fragrant lime of South America... to the
cream and garlic of France... or to the
lively freshness and simplicity of Japan.
All of these taste we have gathered in
one place.
Chef Tomasz apiski takes you
on an engaging and sophisticated
journey to almost all continents.
We would like your every whim
fulflled and the pleased look on your
face will be the best reward. Remember
that you are only limited by your
imagination .....
Warsaws restaurant trends come in tsunami-like waves
that sweep over the city and change the dining landscape
seemingly overnight. The latest culinary fad to dominate
the city will please carnivorous folks: the two-handed
burger is top of the heap, and theres no shortage of
great establishments slinging the citys best patties.
NEW
Barn Burger B-3/4, ul. Przeskok 2, tel. (+48) 512
15 75 67, www.barnburger.pl. Warsaws burger may-
hem reaches its apex at Barn Burger, a newcomer that
demands you ditch your diet and buckle up for swarthy
cheeseburgers and even the aptly-named Heart Attack
burger (mmm bacon!). Every juicy sandwich is partnered
with chubby fries and a cup of coleslaw, and youre a
champ i f you can finish the entire wooden tray your
meal arrives on. Thankfully the calamitous small space
is being exchanged for a larger one at ul. Zota 9 (B-3)
at the start of October, which means your expanding
waistline courtesy of these addicting burgers should
easily fit inside (Sunday hours may also be added as
well). QOpen 12:00 - 21:30, Sat 13:00 - 21:30. Closed
Sun. (14-35z). A6GS
Burger Bar G-6, ul. Puawska 74/80. The space
is small and the lines are long, but Burger Bars simple
list of classic burgers makes up for what the location
lacks (namely sides and much of a beverage selection).
Choose from the chalkboard menu - weve had the juicy
cheeseburger more than once - and tell the chef your
selection. If the only other employee is on the phone hell
ask you to pay later rather than handle your money, so
grab a seat at one of the four odd tables and buckle up:
this is a contender for Warsaws best burger, and youre
going to need both hands and plenty of napkins. QOpen
12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. AB
LOKAL.BISTRO B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie
64. Lokal Bistros niche is elevating the burger to an
art form, with chef Aleksander Baron using only locally
sourced products - Polish beef and local veggies - to
create some of the citys juiciest sandwiches. The burger
doused in Polish-made camembert is a standout, though
be warned that these monstrous stacks are a messy
affair. The venue itself, in the bustling heart Krakowskie
Przedmiecie, looks too chic for such sloppy servings but
rest assured you wont be the only one with a stain on
your shirt. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 -
01:00. (15-26z). TA6UGSW
Prosta Historia H-3, ul. Francuska 24, tel. (+48)
22 870 13 25, www.prostahistoria.com. Prosta
Historia is almost superhero-like in its ability to hide its
true identity. The swank Saska Kpa location and bistro
dcor - butcher block tables, carnations in mason jars,
French music tinkling from the speakers - make you think
a menu of salads and soups await. But crack the menu
and youll see a selection of creative burgers youd expect
to find at a greasy spoon. The Bollywood burger arrives
with curry and chutney, while the more traditional Royal
burger (which has the more typical cheddar, ketchup,
onion and pickles) is a revelation. Throw in the fact that
Prosta makes their own buns and French fries and its
safe to say Warsaw has a new king of the beef patty.
QOpen 12:00 - 22:30, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun
12:00 - 22:00. (18-49z). PTAGBSW
Burgers
56
RESTAURANTS
57
RESTAURANTS
Na Brackiej C- 4, ul. Bracka 18, tel. (+48) 22
827 02 52, www.nabrackiej.com.pl. The arri val of
the swank dom mody VI TKAC shoppi ng compl ex on ul.
Bracka was sure to el evate the address, and Na Brackiej
j ust across the street proves the fashi onabl e i nfl uence
has al ready begun. Di ners can order i ndel i cate di shes
l i ke the popul ar Pol i sh pork knuckl e or hal f a roast duck
wi th appl es i n a modern atmosphere ( yes, those are
real Bi rch trees) that doesn t rel y on the usual country
cabi n decor when of feri ng a cl assi c menu. Lunch mi ght
be the best way to experi ence Na Bracki ej , as thei r
menu changes weekl y and we snagged goose wi th
caramel i zed cherri es for 16zl. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00,
Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (16-39z).
AGSW
Obera Pod Czerwonym Wieprzem (Under the
Red Hog) E-2, ul. elazna 68, tel. (+48) 22 850 31
44, www.czerwonywieprz.pl. The story heres a good
un. In 2006 workers uncovered a secret underground
eatery frequented by all the communist bad boys youd ever
think of; Mao, Lenin, Castro and Brezhnev to name a few.
Unearthed were a stack of medals, manuscripts, menus
and uni forms. This being capi talist Poland a plan was
hatched to make a mint from resurrecting the restaurant
and opening it to all. Thats the story anyhow. Its actually
claptrap, designed to fool tourists and the occasional hal f-
witted magazine. Still, this place forms an intrinsic part of
any commie inspired tour you may be doing of Warsaw, and
a jolly good place to dine on Tito Boar, pigs trotters in aspic
and Red Hog ribs (for two, of course). In the background
lots of sashes, portraits and pretty young girls dressed
for a May Day parade. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. (26-55z).
PTAUGSW
Pierrogeria B-1, ul. Krzywe Koo 30, tel. (+48)
604 17 90 02, www.pierrogeria.pl. I f too many more
top notch, great value places like this open in Ol d Town,
the area is in serious danger of l osing i ts tourist trap
moniker. This di vine li ttl e pi erogi stop keeps i t simpl e,
keeps i t cheap and does so in a gorgeous setting. The
tabl es all get indi vi dual lamps, and i f you can bag one
by the wi ndow at l unchti me then you shoul d settl e i n
for a very l ong afternoon. Also at (F-4) Pl. Konstytucj i 2.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (20-25z).
TAGSW
Pol ka, Magda Gessl er po prostu B- 2, ul .
witojaska 2, tel. (+48) 22 635 35 35, www.res-
tauracjapolka.pl. No other restaurateur dominates the
Warsaw scene like Magda Gessler, and Polka is one of her
Polish offerings to Warsaws growing band of gastronauts.
Like her other ventures Polka has a fairytale design that
makes use of floral prints and country clutter, and the inte-
riors here are a fancy muddle of frou frou chambers. But its
with good food that the name Gessler is most commonly
associated with, and here theres plenty of that to choose
from. Find your usual assortment of Polish delicacies, made
using the finest locally sourced produce. In added boon the
prices are kind on the eye as well. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(24-66z). PTAG
Radio Caf B- 4, ul. Nowogrodzka 56, tel. (+48) 22
625 27 84, www.radiocafe.pl. Penetrate the curtains
to enter a l egend, a venue wi th shady connections to the
underground broadcasts of Radio Free Europe. Attesting
to this past are photos, cuttings and sketches, as well
as an ageing cli entel e all too familiar wi th the bad ol d
days. You woul dn t define this venue as progressi ve, yet
i ts an immensel y enj oyabl e way to glimpse pre-sushi
ul. Krakowskie Przedmiescie 87/89, Warsaw
Tel. +48 22 497 57 72
Tel./fax. +48 22 827 30 54
e-mail: biuro@literatka.com.pl
www.literatka.com.pl
Restaurant Literatka
is pleased to invite you for delicious
dishes of traditional Polish and
international cuisine.
Warsaw and enj oy li vel y chat in an almost histori c atmo-
sphere. The foods good as well, wi th central European
standards that do far more than j ust keep the col d at
bay. QOpen 07:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00.
(20-48z). TAGS
Restauracja Rana G-5, ul. Chocimska 7, tel.
(+48) 22 848 12 25, www.restauracjarozana.com.
pl. A two floor pre-war villa full of chichi touches, flowers
and crockery. Very pretty, but youll soon learn they at-
tract return custom on account of the cooking, not the
interiors. The setting might look high end but the prices
are certainly not, and youll find Rana recognized across
the city as one of the best dinner deals around. The veal
liver with onions and cherry sauce is divine. Plenty claim
to open till the last customer but only these guys are the
real deal - i f theres people dining then the kitchen will stay
open, and that doesnt matter i f its midnight or daybreak.
Give a quick call ahead to check. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
(30-70z). PTAEXSW
Sony G-4, ul. Pikna 11 (entrance from ul. Krucza),
tel. (+48) 22 629 03 64, www.slony.pl. Magda Gessler
strikes again, but not with the usual overdecorated sit-down
restaurant weve come to expect; this time the celebrity
restaurateur has created a grown-up snack bar thats a com-
plete knockout. A glass case in the middle of the restaurant
houses a variety of canaps to choose from - wouldnt the
French die to see smalec and pickles on a canap? - and
the menu is populated with small meaty dishes primarily in
the 4-12zl range (can we call it Polish tapas?). The simple
homemade white sausage with onion jam is on our city-wide
best-of list, and with one entire wall utilised for wine storage
you can sip and snack your way to pure bliss. QOpen 09:00
- 23:00, Fri 09:00 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 -
23:00. (12-39z). PA6GSW
Strauss Restaurant B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 45 (Po-
lonia Palace Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 318 28 34, www.
strauss.pl. A classy restaurant serving Polish/Austrian
cuisine inside the elegant confines of the Polonia Palace.
Check their Friday night deal where 105z buys a Polish buffet
accompanied by live music. Q Open 06:30 - 10:00, 11:00 -
16:00, 18:00 - 22:30, Sat, Sun 06:30 - 10:30, 18:00 - 22:30.
(36-120z). PTAUGW
U Barssa B-1, Rynek Starego Miasta 14, tel. (+48)
22 635 24 76, www.ubarssa.pl. Old Town is packed with
standard places to eat, but has traditionally been something
of a desert when it comes to great places to eat. Times are
a-changing. As you walk into the elegant dining room you
will discover a world of luxury, craft and privilege (oh yes,
best save up before coming). Veal escalopes with dill sauce
and the signature duck a la Barssa (baked with apples and
served with cranberries and plum sauce and accompanied
by baked potatoes and beet konfiture) are just a few of the
treats you can expect, and we have yet to mention the wine
list. Q Open 10:00 - 24:00. From November 10:00 - 23:00.
(50-90z). TAEGSW
U Fukiera B-2, Rynek Starego Miasta 27, tel. (+48) 22
831 10 13, www.ufukiera.pl. The most famous restau-
rant in town with a guestbook that speaks for itself; Naomi
Campbell, Henry Kissinger and Sarah Ferguson are a few of
the names whove taken a seat here. The interior is a work
of art, crowded with paintings and antiques, its hard not to
feel a part of history when dining here. The food is the perfect
indulgence with perfectly presented game dishes. Your bill is
a different matter, and may present a double Dutch situation.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (41-105z). PTJAGSW
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1 Frcia Si. Tcl. 22 831 61 90
13 wiiojasla Si. Tcl. 22 635 61 09
18 Frcia Si. Tcl. 22 635 79 59
1 Podwalc Si. Tcl. 663 564 293
64 Nowy wiai Si. Tcl. 22 692 41 35
58
RESTAURANTS
59
RESTAURANTS
Top Fish C- 3, ul. Nowy wiat 54/56, tel. (+48) 22
556 85 60. Top Fishs authenti ci ty smacks you in the
nose as soon as you walk in - - take a ni ce l ong whi f f of
the sea and then peruse the well -stocked glass cases.
Top Fish caters to peopl e who like their seafood so fresh
i t still has a face, and you can sel ect cuts of hali but or
sturgeon to take home or have i t sli ced, cooked and
served to you at one of the wai ti ng tabl es. Top Fi sh
also specialises in vegetarian sel ections - though i f the
fish doesn t bother you, youre probabl y a pescetarian.
Were partial to two of the soups: the potato cream wi th
salmon and the uni que Croatian soup thats packed to
the gills wi th seafood. QOpen 08:00 - 22:30, Thu, Fri
08:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:30.
(25-40z). TAGSW
Spanish
NEW
Casa Pablo A-3, ul. Grzybowska 5a, tel. (+48) 22
324 57 81, www.casapablo.pl. Spanish restaurants
are few and far between in Warsaw, so its not hard to
stand out i f thats the menu youre slinging. Yet Casa
Pablo doesnt rest on those laurels and ups the ante with
creative Spanish-influenced cuisine that meant wed heard
about their duck breast burger and creamy cauli flower
soup before crossing their threshol d (another notabl e
entree that seafood lovers will appreciate is the scallops).
That doesnt even touch on the desserts, or the specials
weve seen that promise free glasses of wine on occa-
sion - - not that youll need any extra enticements once
youve explored this unique menu. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (50-85z).
PTAUBXW
Ole Tapas Steak Restaurant C-4, ul. Bracka 2, tel.
(+48) 519 87 57 67, www.ole-restaurant.pl. The steak
trend in Warsaw shows no sign of losing steam as Ole adds
to the stiff competition amongst flesh slingers, but with a
Spanish twist. That theme is clear as soon as you step
inside the small, modern restaurant which uses images of
Flamenco dancers to line the mezzanine staircase. Weve
seen diners swoon while consuming the fresh tuna, and
the Spanish tortilla packed with zucchini makes an ideal
light lunch when you dont want a slab of beef weighing you
down. Oh, but when you do, Ole spoils diners for choice with
Basque, Kobe, Galician and even Sirloin with foie gras. Ask
your server what he recommends, as ours was liberal with
solid recommendations. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (60-250z).
PTAGSW
NEW
Sol y Sombra A-3, ul. Grzybowska 2 lok.16, tel. (+48)
22 404 70 11, www.solysombra.pl. Formerly Cuatro
Caminos Tapas Bar, Sol y Sambra seems to have kept the
formers kitschy dcor as well as their consistently delicious
cuisine (new owner, new chef), which is authentically Spanish
to the core. The lunch special lands you soup and a main, and
we cant say enough for the gazpacho when its in season.
The paella requires a bit of a wait, so get yourself some grilled
asparagus with Serrano ham to make the time pass more
enjoyably. As the third tapas bar to call this address home
were thinking this one is a keeper. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00,
Mon, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. (29-49z). PA6UGSW
Tex-Mex
Blue Cactus G-5, ul. Zajczkowska 11, tel. (+48) 22
851 23 23, www.bluecactus.pl. Warsaw would be a lot
poorer without the Blue Cactus, an old timer thats every
bit as good as it was on day one. Burritos and burgers are
outstanding here, and traditionally washed down with jugs of
margaritas. Kids are welcomed here, a negative to some a
positive to others, and the terrace is a Sunday fave. QOpen
08:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (24-
86z). TAGSW
Frida C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 34, tel. (+48) 22 826 42
18, www.restauracjafrida.pl. Mexican ballads, sombrero
shaped ashtrays and splashy pictures of Frida Kahlo; this
place has the lot. Service is great, flirty even, while the menu
gets gongs for featuring all the right Mexican suspects.
Theres a distinct lack of dynamite to the salsa, but all in all
this is a decent addition to Warsaws Mex offerings, and a
definite alternative to your more tried Nowy wiat venues.
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. (22-69z).
PTA6UEGS
The Mexican B-3/4, ul. Zgoda 6, tel. (+48) 22 826 00
09, www.mexican.pl. Unclog your system and get your guts
gargling by attending The Mexican, a venue with shocking
burritos that come served under a slurry of cabbage and florid
sauce. A lot of effort has been put into the venue itself, and
many a passerby will be wooed by the scantily clad flamenco-
inspired attire of the waitresses; If only they focused half as
much attention on the food. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (25-35z). TAGSW
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Become a fan of Warsaw In Your
Pocket on
If ever there was a sign of how far Poland has come then
Plac Trzech Krzyy is it - lined up like diamond ducks are
top bracket boutiques, a five star hotel, and a phalanx
of Jeeps parked outside designer bars. This corner of
Warsaw has it all, and standing at the top of it is Dom
Dochodowy (the Incomes House), a glittering example
of when old meets new. Essentially a triangular faced
townhouse, the original Dom Dochodowy is thought to
have been constructed back in the 18th century, before
being improved on by Antoni Luciski - the supervisor of
King Poniatowskis private cellar. Essentially comprised
of three separate houses (one facing Ujazdowskie,
another Mokotowska, and the final one staring down
Trzech Krzyy), the properties served countless uses
over the years, including that of distillery, playing card
factory and private laboratory for one budding Harry
Potter. The building survived the Warsaw Uprising, but
not in particularly good shape, and for the following
decades was allowed to rot slowly away. Finally, at
the start of this century, work was undertaken by the
Platan Group to restore the structure. The results are
fantastic - decorative plaster mouldings, polychromes
and historic decorations all saw the master touch, while
other details to look for include a floor mosaic making
use of four types of wood, iron balustrades and period-
style lampposts. Check the finer details for yoursel f by
spending in the Zegna and Burberry boutique inside,
the Ale Gloria restaurant in the cellar, or the stretch of
cafes/bars/restaurants to the side. Look for it on pl.
Trzech Krzyy 3.
The Incomes House
U Kucharzy B-2, ul. Ossoliskich 7, tel. (+48) 22 826

79 36, www.gessler.pl. Cooking becomes theatre inside U
Kucharzy, a restaurant where chefs toil next to diners inside
what once served as the kitchen of the Europejski Hotel.
Black and white tiles, hams hanging from ceilings and florid-
faced chefs cursing over the din; eating here is like being
on the set of Ramseys Kitchen Nightmares. The food is no
nightmare, however, rather a collection of top priced game
dishes and other posh alternatives. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
(39-79z). TAEGS
Zapiecek C- 4, ul. Nowy wiat 64, tel. (+48) 22 826
74 84, www.zapiecek.eu. Packed through all hours this
pierogi kitchen assumes the Grandmothers country cot-
tage look, with pots and pans hanging from every shel f,
and lots of hard timber touches. Much talked about, their
deliciously light dough pockets come with all the fillings you
can imagine. I f you dont fancy a sit down then check their
street-level take away window for lunch-on-the-run. Also at
Al. Jerozolimskie 28 (C-4). QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat
11:00 - 24:00. (19-36z). PTAGS
Seafood
Osteria F- 3, ul. Koszykowa 54 (entrance from ul.
Poznaska), tel. (+48) 22 621 16 46, www.osteria.
pl. Some of the best seafood in Warsaw, wi th a menu
featuri ng fresh oysters, langousti nes, parrotfish ( yes,
reall y) and some very good octopus. The modern interior
i ncl udes hardwood and porthol e fi ni shes, as wel l as
aquariums from whi ch Afri can fish l ook on in alarm as
their coll eagues meet a sti cky end in the open ki tchen.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 14:00 - 22:00. (59-285z).
PTAGSW
60
RESTAURANTS
61
RESTAURANTS
we saw a diner apply deodorant mid-meal. But you know
what youre going to do? Put up with it, because the food is
excellent. The pad Thai is the best weve had in Poland, and
the stir-fried rice with cocktail shrimps, pork and pineapple
is a steaming pile of excellence. The menu comes in two
giant tomes and has plenty of curries, vegetarian dishes
and noodles to hold you over until your next trip to Thailand.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (20-48z). PAGS
Sunanta C-4, ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. (+48) 22 434 22
16, www.sunanta.pl. More people seem to be discovering
Sunanta as our forays to snag crispy fried tofu and spicy
stir-fried duck require working around the busy lunch crowd.
Find a table amongst the suit-heavy patrons and dive into a
menu that covers so many options (and offers many of them
nice and hot) that even the pickiest groups will be pleased.
The interiors are pleasant and intimate, with dark woods and
bamboo bits, and smokers are shuttled outside if they require
a pre-meal puff. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30, Sat 13:00 - 22:30,
Sun 13:00 - 21:00. (24-81z). PTAGS
Turkish
Maho Al. Krakowska 240/242 (Wochy), tel. (+48) 22
609 15 48, www.maho.com.pl. Well out in the sticks, and
probably beyond the investigative talents of all but the estab-
lished expat. But thats a great shame, because what looks like
a glorified kebab shop turns out to be so much more. Set in a
low-level modern building - the kind youd see in a retail park -
Maho touts a modern looking design of dark, sleek woods, as
well a menu that really gives a boost to the flagging reputation of
Turkish food; lets face it, the kebab shops of Warsaw have done
no favours to this noble cuisine. To find such decent skewered
meats is a rarity, and Maho also sideline as an exotic delicates-
sen. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (22-42z). PTAUXSW
The best steaks in town
Warsaw Tortilla Factory F-3, ul. Wilcza 46, tel. (+48)
22 621 86 22, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl. In a country
that considers ketchup spicy were always trepidacious when
restaurants boast of any sort of heat factor. Fortunately,
the Warsaw Tortilla Factory isnt kidding when they call their
habanero mango salsa explosive. The rest of the Tex-Mex
menu also lives up to expectations, with outsized burritos few
adults can finish and a cheesy Philly taco thats so wrong its
right. And dont forget chicken wings for 1z on Tuesdays. Heck
wed probably lick the guacamole off the floor and wash it down
with a Corona. We doubt anyone at the WTF would blink if we
did since the mixed crowd of locals and ex-pats is equally as
focused on their salsa-laden plates. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (18-60z). PTA6EBXSW
Thai
Little Thai Gallery B-3, Pl. Dbrowskiego 2/4, tel. (+48)
22 827 44 10, www.littlethaigallery.pl. Often having a good
Thai meal in Warsaw means trading atmosphere for authentic-
ity. Thankfully youll have to make no such compromises at Little
Thai Gallery, where the food is every bit as good as the lush
surroundings. The 22zl lunch special is a steal, with soup (we
liked the soy noodle with pork) tea and an entree like fresh veggie
spring rolls leaving you happily stuffed. Practically any dish has
the option of being ramped up to spicy hot, and the interiors will
leave you as breathless as the peppers; the giant painting of a
praying monk that dominates the south wall is almost as big as
the restaurant itself. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sat 13:00 - 22:00,
Sun 13:00 - 21:00. (25-55z). PTA6UGS
Natara A-2, Al. Solidarnoci 129/131, tel. (+48) 666
10 15 00, www.natara.pl. Natara has one of the strangest
dining spaces weve encountered: five tables are squeezed
into a cramped, low-ceilinged second floor thats so stuffy
Ukrainian
Kamanda Lwowska C-3, ul. Foksal 10, tel. (+48) 22 828
10 31, www.kamandalwowska.pl. Heres a restaurant that
gets back to basics, offering up a cavalcade of dishes that have
been otherwise deleted from modern Warsaw. Featuring peas-
ant pictures and brick ceilings this isnt the experiment in vanity
you expect of ul. Foksal, choosing instead to hark to the times
when Ukrainian Lviv was actually Polish Lww. The emphasis
is firmly on the good old days - before moustached dictators
started dictating Polands borders - and the design is a pleas-
ing jumble of craftwork and clutter. The menu, too, has been
painstakingly perfected, and includes such masterstrokes as
cheesecake cooked to a secret grandparents recipe . QOpen
12:00 - 24:00. (35-89z). PTAEGSW
Vegetarian
Bar Vega E-2, Al. Jana Pawa II 36c, tel. (+48) 22
35 35 400, www.vega-warszawa.pl. Vegetable koftas
and samosas served in a cheerful, modest room behind
Kino Femina. A godsend. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. (13-20z).
T6VGSW
Biosfeera F-6, Al. Niepolegoci 80, tel. (+48) 22 898
01 55, www.biosfeera.com. An ultra-funky interior full of
hanging canvas lamps, orange dashes and shining wood fin-
ishes generates the hip atmosphere normally lacking in Polish
vegetarian haunts. The Koza Italiana is a fantastic way to prime
yourself for the meatless main courses that come with names
like Szpinakolada and Tortilla Kama Sutra. Freshly squeezed
juices and fruit cocktails come as refreshment, and expect
the thousand-yard stare if you ask for a beer and an ashtray.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (29-39z). TA6UGSW
Green Bar B-3, ul. Szpitalna 6, tel. (+48) 22 625 00
55. An oasis of veggie goodness in the meaty heart of this
carnivorous city, Green Bar keeps it simple - soup, quiches,
light meals and the like - but does so very well indeed, and
keeps prices low, ensuring it a steady stream of custom-
ers - at lunchtime especially. Just about your only veggie
option this close to the city centre, we say get here while
you can. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. (11-
15z). PAGS
smaczneGO! B-4, ul. Wsplna 54a, tel. (+48) 603
95 35 25. SmaczneGO is disarmingly simple: lots of food
for little money, all of it easily packed to go. Takeout orders
outnumber the sit-down diners and the employees earn their
wages hustling between the kitchen and the front counter
with containers of soup and piles of goulash. Theres more
vegetarian options than your average Warsaw restaurant,
though our veggie burrito stretched the boundaries of what
even the most liberal Mexican would consider legit (were
pretty sure the same tomato sauce used for the lasagne is
doused on top of the burrito). QOpen 09:30 - 20:00, Sat,
Sun 12:00 - 19:00. (9-16z). PTA6GS
Vietnamese
Nam Sajgon C-4, ul. Bracka 18, tel. (+48) 880 63 39
85. This Vietnamese gem has upgraded from its origins as
a stall in the National Stadium to a two-level spot on Bracka,
but the lines havent changed. Thats because you cant beat
the fresh spring rolls or the large vermicelli salads, which will
easily provide tomorrows lunch too. The steaming bowls
of Pho are one of the most popular options thanks to the
delicious meaty broth, and the list of teas and Vietnamese
coffee are equally impressive. QOpen 10:00 - 21:30, Sun
10:00 - 20:30. (10-19z). GS
Theres a number of ways to survive winter in Poland,
and weve tried them all; from dressing up like Eskimos
to eating loads of fat and staying home. Of all the
methods none however rewards as much as heading
down the pub. Its in these noble establishments youll
find the answer to the ice age, namely a pint of grzane
piwo thats hot beer to you and me. Now it might
sound rancid but give it a try. Youll get a frothing beer
served piping hot with a choice of various flavourings
cloves, cinnamon, honey, ginger and an array of fruit
juices. Grzane wino mulled wine is equally popular
at this time of year and is particularly decent when
using a dry red.
Couple of things a veteran will keep their eye out for;
firstly, the distant ping of a microwave is usually a give-
away that they dont know what theyre doing behind the
scenes. You most certainly dont want your drink fried.
Secondly, ask for a mug, not a glass. Drinks lose their
temperature fast so its always best to have a mug,
preferably a sturdy clay chap. Thirdly, and a gentle prod
to any simpletons, remember your drink is going to be
scorching hot when it arrives. Gulping it down in one is
going to seriously hurt. And remember, if youre trying
this at home, never let the drink hit boiling point. Thats
disaster. If youre too scared to get creative yoursel f
then youll find ready-to-heat mulled wine on sale in off
licenses - look for Grzaniec Galicyjski. During the colder
months you will find most restaurants and bars offering
some form of hot alcohol and we cant recommend
them enough.
Hot Beer
62
63
CAFS CAFS
Blikle Caf C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 33, tel. (+48) 22 826
64 50, www.blikle.pl. A part of Warsaw folklore. This is
where Charles De Gaulle used to come for his donuts back in
his Warsaw days, and Blikle still sell a chocolate and marzipan
cake honouring their famous guest. A classy, august venue,
with a menu available until midnight that includes a range
of breakfasts, lunches, ice creams and a dessert selection
that will have you in heaven. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sun
10:00 - 24:00. PTAGSW
Bubbleology B-3, ul. Chmielna 26, www.bubbleology.
pl. Few things have gotten us more excited than the arrival
(finally!) of bubble tea in Poland. Bubbleology is a UK chain
that offers milk and fruit teas that can be mixed in any num-
ber of combinations - - just ask one of the lab coat-wearing
bubbleologists behind the counter for their most creative
recommendations; passionfruit and vanilla? Taro and kum-
quat? Its just tea and tables here, but thats all you need
to enjoy this tall, cold refreshment. QOpen 10:30 - 23:00.
PAGSW
Cafe Baguette B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 69,
tel. (+48) 22 828 76 10. Confronted with Cafe Baguettes
impressive wall of loaves and pastries its fair to question
whether you took a wrong turn on K-P and somehow ended
up in a cosy Parisian boulangerie. In a city where good bread
can be harder to find than happy stories Cafe Baguette is
a welcome (and already popular) addition. Salads, quiches
and thick sandwiches fill up their display case, while baskets
of croissants and desserty goodness surround the register.
The outdoor seats provide a great spot for people watching
while diving into sticky pastries.QOpen 06:00 - 24:00; Fri,
Sat, Sun open 24hrs. TA6UGSW
Cafe Prna B-3, ul. Prna 12, tel. (+48) 22 620
32 57, www.cafeprozna.pl. Making a stir with Warsaws
intellectuals is Cafe Prna, a cracking cafe set inside a
shattered building that looks ready to keel over. Youll be
lucky to find a seat inside this narrow venue, even more so
if theres a lecture or reading going on. Decorated with pre-
war photographs, Prna comes with a pile of well-thumbed
history books in the entrance, tiny tea candles and a base-
ment level to soak up any overflow of customers. The only
disappointment here are the smoothies; nowhere near as
good as the venue deserves. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Mon,
Sun 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. 6GSW
Caf Vincent C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 64, tel. (+48) 22
828 01 15. This place is a great French bakery and coffee
shop doing a huge range of authentic pastries and bread.
This is rather unfortunate as the large queue and tiny shop
space move quickly while you dither, and you also risk being
smacked by a baguette if you turn around too quickly, but
its worth it as a coffee and croissant will set you back less
than 20zl. Also at ul. Jana Pawa II 82 (D-1, Arkadia). QOpen
06:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 06:30 - 01:00. PAGSW
Chodna 25 E-2, ul. elazna 75a (entrance from ul.
Chodna), tel. (+48) 22 620 24 13, chlodna25.blog.pl.
The unofficial home of Warsaw counter-culture, and some-
thing of a community centre for wacko art types; theyre all
here, from expat hacks typing up tomorrows copy, to drama
queers committing theatre scripts to memory. Distracting
them from the duty at hand are jazzy tunes, poetry slams
and the occasional comedy show. Chairs of varying style and
condition, board games and batty artwork all add to the at-
mosphere, making C25 every bit as appealing as it is curious.
The only (fairly major) downside: they lost their liquor license,
so youll be experiencing all of this while sober. QOpen
08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. PA6GSW
Coffee Karma F-4, Pl. Zbawiciela 3/5, tel. (+48) 22
875 87 09, www.coffeekarma.eu. Earnest looking intel-
lectuals read Hesse while taking languid sips of hand-roasted
coffee. Huge windows afford views of Pl. Zbawiciela, and the
staff are also adept at fixing exotic smoothies. Ten out of
ten. QOpen 07:30 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 -
23:00. PTA6GSW
Costa Coffee C-3, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 8,
tel. (+48) 22 828 28 58, www.costacoffee.pl. Costa
recently upgraded their digs from a less-than-inspiring (and
often faintly bathroom-spelling) location on Nowy Swiat to
this new, airy and arty space on Krakowskie Przedmiescie.
The transition hasnt affected the standard corporate menu
of reliable coffees and pre-made sandwiches, but the at-
mosphere is a major upgrade and the clientele now skews
decidedly younger thank to its proximity to the University.
One of the best renewals of a tired brand that weve seen
in a while. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 22:30.
PTAGS
Green Caf f e Nero (G- 5), ul . Tadeusza Boj a-
eleskiego 2, tel. (+48) 22 118 25 20, www.
greencoffee.pl. I ts the per fect caf feinated marriage:
Pol ands popul ar Green Cof fee j oi ns forces wi th the
UK-based Caf fe Nero to create thi s fi rst- of-i ts-ki nd
j oint venture. In this case everyone wins - - Caf fe Nero
provi des their I talian bl ends whil e Green Cof fee of fers
house-made sandwi ches to the hungry PC-users that
swarm the fl uf fy couches and wood sl ab tabl es. The
cafe i tsel f is on Pl. Unii Lubelski ej, one stop down on the
tram from the too-cool -for-school Pl. Zbawi ci ela, whi ch
means you won t be fi ghti ng under fed hi psters for a
seat. Theres still some growing pains to work out (the
musi cs too l oud, the bathroom has windows that all ow
you to wave at nei ghbors from the seat) but overall i ts a
match made in espresso heaven. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00.
PA6UGSW
NEW
Lody na Patyku ul. Lipowa 7a, tel. (+48) 602 13
46 34. Poles love their ice cream, and Lody na Patyku
(roughly Ice Cream on a Stick) takes that love affair to a
more sophisticated level with a large variety of ice cream
flavours and coatings that are slapped on sticks, reshaped
(hearts, giant paws) and sprinkled with toppings (coconut,
pistachios) that make deciding on the perfect stick a lengthy
process. The first floor offers seating and the option for
legitimate meals, but embrace your inner eight year old
and go with an ice cream or two. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00.
TA6GSW
NEW
Loft ul. Zota 11, tel. (+48) 608 60 84 88, www.
cafeloft.pl. Mixed in amongst fast food choices like KFC
and Sphinx comes Loft, a welcome respite for those who
dont necessarily want a meal in the city centre that requires
eating with your fingers. The space itself is fun, with bubbly
lights and bright furniture mixing with wacky S&M cartoonish
artwork and tableside aquariums. Lunch is your best bet, with
sandwiches flying out of the kitchen for just 15zl and large
salads setting you back 25zl. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat,
Sun 11:00 - 22:00. PTA6UEXSW
Mi ni sterstwo Kawy F- 4, ul . Marsza kowska
27/35, tel. (+48) 503 080 906, www.ministerstwo-
kawy.pl. Another caf at Plac Zbawi ci ela? Just when we
thought i t had reached cri ti cal mass (Charl otte, Cof fee
Karma and Kawiarnia Funky are all mere steps away)
Ministerstwo Kawy throws open i ts doors and proves
that all you trul y need for a successful cof fee shop is
an espresso machine, a few chairs and reliabl e Wi -Fi.
Oh, and bathrooms. Students have claimed this place
as their own, and the tabl es are consistentl y fill ed wi th
backpacks and hal f-eaten bowls of soup. Our favouri te
spot for pulling l ong laptop sessions wi th no hassl e or
hipsters. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00.
PA6UGSW
NEW
Moments Tasty Life ul. Nowy wiat 6/12, www.
tastylife.pl. Yes, it sounds like a three-year-old named the
place. Overlook it. Moments occupies a prime spot at the
intersection of Nowy Swiat and Jerozolimskie inside the
former stock exchange building, which means great people
watching while you nibble that carrot cake (or shovel it down
like us). Theres plenty of outdoor seating when the weather is
right, and inside its sparse, modern and populated by some
impressively well-made coffee drinks. QOpen 07:30 - 22:00,
Fri 07:30 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00.
PTAUGSW
Petit Appetit C- 3, ul. Nowy wiat 27, tel. (+48)
22 826 44 61, www.petitappetit.pl. The sprawling
street of Nowy wiat/Krakowskie Przedmiecie is now
bookended with boulangeries: on the northern end theres
Cafe Baguette, and on the southern Petit Appetit. This
French newcomer already impresses by offering fantastic
homemade crepes and fluffy omelettes along with authentic
crusty bread that patrons can watch being baked via a large
glass window on the kitchen. The usual pain au chocolates
and creme brulees line the bakery case along with a mind-
boggling array of loaves that beg to be taken on the go (in
your bicycle basket no less). Our only complaint? The cof-
fee cups lack useable handles! Yet its a price were willing
to pay for a little taste of Paris. QOpen 06:30 - 23:00.
PTA6UGSW
Sodki Sony G- 4, ul. Mokotowska 45, tel. (+48)
22 622 49 34, www.slodkislony.pl. Exceedi ngl y or-
nate i nteri ors announce the arri val of one more Magda
Gessl er venture, thi s one wi th a heavy emphasi s on
cakes, pastri es and chocol ate. Theres guil ty pl easures
apl enty i n thi s pl ace, and al l packaged i nsi de a desi gn
thats hal f Mar tha Stewar t and hal f Engl i sh countr y
house. QOpen 10: 00 - 24: 00, Mon 11: 00 - 24: 00.
PA6GSW
Starbucks Cof fee C- 3, ul. Nowy wiat 62, tel.
(+48) 71 386 19 53, www.starbucks.pl. Anti -gl o-
bal i sts weep. After years of threateni ng so the agents
of Satan, Starbucks, have opened shop i n Warsaw,
and i n the most obvi ous l ocati on of al l - bang on Nowy
wi at. And i ts everythi ng youd expect - bi g, comfort-
abl e, popular, and wi th very good cof fee combos to keep
the peopl e comi ng over and over agai n. Al so on (A-2)
Al. Sol i darnoci 68a, (A-2), Al. Sol i darnoci 82, (A-3) ul.
Emi l i i Pl ater 53 and (B-4) Al. Jerozol i mski e 63. QOpen
07:30 - 21:30, Fri, Sat 07:30 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:30.
PAUGSW
To Lubi B-1, ul. Freta 10, tel. (+48) 22 635 90 23,
www.tolubie.pl. Divine. Coffee, cakes, pies, breakfast, cof-
fee and apple or plum crumble at 12z a slice (not necessarily
in that order). Opposite the church on a street that is best
known as being tourist-trap central, this is the kind of place
you can get all twee and generally Krakow for a moment.
Old/New Town should be full of places like is. I like this is
what the name means and we do. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00.
PTA6GS
I f theres one uni versal truth about Pol es i ts that
they l ove their dessert. What mi ght be consi dered
a special treat or i ndul gence i n your country i s a
standard part of the meal, a stapl e not to be l eft out.
A lap past any i ce cream parl our or bakery typi call y
reveals l ong lines and hefty purchases (yet still the
Pol es stay impressi vel y skinny. Unfair). Evi dence of
this sugary fanati cism can be found in the l ong tradi -
tion of chocolate l ounges, cafes that are devoted
to the cocoa-dri ven nectar in a way you thought onl y
Hansel and Gretel coul d imagine.
Mount Blanc Pijalnia Czekolady i Kawy B- 4,
ul. Chmielna 27/31, tel. (+48) 22 826 70 80,
www.mountblanc.pl. The l one i nterl oper among
the chocol ate l ounges i n Warsaw i s newcomer
Mount Blanc, which boasts Belgian chocolates (140
to choose from) and desserts for those who want an
international spin on their addiction. Choosing among
the various truffles - some shaped like a dogs head
and corncobs - requires only the point of a finger before
the gloved hand of a Mount Blanc employee snaps
up your selection. An array of ice cream dishes, hot
chocolate and desserts are on hand, but the go-to
choice for regulars are the ganache truffles. QOpen
10:00 - 23:00. PAGSW
Pijalnia Czekolady Wedel B-3, ul. Szpitalna 8,
tel. (+48) 22 827 29 16, www.wedelpijalnie.pl. The
reason everyone at Czekolady Wedel looks like theyre
in a daze is because this is the mothership of chocolate
cafes, ground zero for all things dark, milk and achingly
sweet. Wedel is the countrys longest established choco-
late manufacturer and one of the best known brands in
Poland. This classy venue, featuring comfortable seat-
ing in room after room of tables, is located in what was
once the factory and cafe of the Wedel business. Youll
still be able to taste the original chocolate creations of
its founders which were so popular that Karol Wedel
had to introduce a factory seal carrying his signature
to combat the number of forged Wedel products that
were filling the market in the 1860s. The menu here is
impressive in both its size and scope, covering every
variety of chocolate drink, dessert, truffle and ice cream
dish imaginable. Chocolate comas are inevitable. QOpen
08:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
PTAGSW
Wawel B- 3, ul. Krlewska 2, tel. (+48) 22 828
14 99, www.wawel.com.pl. Yes i t sounds awful l y
similar to Wedel, and their histories are equall y alike.
Confecti oner Adam Pi asecki founded the company
i n 1898 i n Krakow and, maki ng i t through Worl d
War I I , become a recogni zabl e Pol i sh brand for
sweets. Thei r Warsaw chocol ate l ounge i s l ocated
on swank Krakowski e Przedmi eci e, and though i t
i s nowhere near as vast as the Wedel l ounge nor
as daunti ng i n menu choi ces, chocohol i cs can sti l l
i ndul ge i n a ri di cul ous array of truf fl es and treats.
The hot chocol ates i mpressi vel y di verse for the ad-
venturous, wi th Cherry Crush and Ci nnamon I sl ands
recommended for those who like to compliment their
chocol ate wi th addi ti onal fl avors. Q Open 10:00 -
21:00, Fri 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 11:00 - 22:00, Sun
12:00 - 22:00. Note that openi ng hours are subj ect
to change. PA6GBSW
Chocolate Lounges
64
NIGHTLIFE
65
NIGHTLIFE
Bars & Pubs
Warsaw has a thriving bar scene, and hitting up one of
the many venues listed here offers the chance to sample
Polands national beverage - vodka - long with plenty of
local beers. Youll be offered beer ei ther in 0.3 or 0.5
litre sizes, and prices depend greatly on how swank your
establishment; expect to pay 7-10zl for a large beer for
the most part.
Bar Tektura B- 4, ul. Poznaska 12, tel. (+48) 602
72 96 97, www.bartektura.pl. Bar Tektura appears
to be nei ghbouri ng Bei ruts more l ow-key si bl i ng: the
space itsel f is the same, but the music is more subdued,
the lights are brighter and the decor more architectural.
Cardboard is unexpectedly used as a key design element,
and customers are encouraged to scribble on the scrolls
of provided paper. Theres an array of snacks and a small
menu (written on cardboard of course) and bottles of Pol-
ish beers to spill on your drawings. QOpen 17:00 - 01:00.
PAUGW
Beirut Hummus & Music Bar B- 4, ul. Poznaska
12. Our favorite new addition to Warsaws bar scene, Beirut
is pure atmosphere - the bar itsel f is made with sandbags,
after all - and offers traditional Lebanese snacks like olive
oil -soaked hummus and falafel to pair wi th your beer.
While the weather is nice the front is open to the street,
letting passersby marvel at the sound system and the
unique hairstyles of the hip staff. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00.
PAUGW
Bierhalle C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 64, tel. (+48) 609 67
77 65, www.bierhalle.pl. Warsaws best beer served in
a bi-level space filled with chunky woods, bare bricks and
industrial flourishes. The menu, presented by girls dressed
in countryside apparel, features big photographs of what you
can expect, including life-size pics of the beer - order a big
one here and youll be left getting to grips with clunky two pint
steins that are ideal for showing off your bicep flexes. Also
at Al. Jana Pawa II 82 (D-1, Arkadia). QOpen 12:00 - 23:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. PAGW
British Bulldog Pub C-4, ul. Krucza 51, tel. (+48)
22 827 00 20, www.bbpub.pl. One of the biggest anti-
climaxes of 2012. Found in the venue that for many years
housed the uninviting London Steak House, the British Bull-
dog pub saw the place completely rebuilt, a great year round
terrace added (where you can smoke) and the introduction
of British and Irish beers. A good looking menu and satel-
lite television promised some sort of choice for the English
speaking expat zloty. And then the British front man leaves
shortly after the re-launch and the place loses traction.
Far be it for us to declare this place as lost so early as it
still looks impressive and the beer is wet and the satellite
connected, but its got a lot to do particularly in the kitchen
and on the service front to get a thumbs up from us.QOpen
11:00 - 01:00. PAUBXW
Bufet Centralny B-4, ul. urawia 32/34, tel. (+48)
532 74 91 60, www.bufetcentralny.pl. Houndstooth and
concrete dont sound like the recipe for Warsaws hippest
bar, and when you throw in the view from the large patio - a
hulking parking garage - it sounds even more grim. But Bufet
Centralny is painfully cool, with its stark space populated by
drinkers that sport at minimum 3 tattoos apiece. We cant
put our finger on exactly why theyve become the it bar (its
definitely not the service) but weekends this place is tighter
than a hipsters jeans. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00
- 05:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. PAG
Cafe Kulturalna (Culture Caf) B- 4, Pl. Defilad
1 (PKiN), tel. (+48) 22 656 62 81, www.kultur-
al na.pl. Cafe, bar and cl ub, Cafe Kul tural na i s an
amazi ng space, and unmi ssabl e i f you appreci ate a
venue wi th character. Decorated wi th vi nyl armchai rs,
artwork and tastel ess 50s chandel i ers thi s i s a magnet
for the student i ntel l i gentsi a. DJs, fi l m screeni ngs,
readi ngs and assor ted ar tsy tosh regul arl y hel d. Fi nd
i t i n the Pal ace of Cul ture on the Marsza kowska si de
of the bui l di ng next to the theatre i n the south-east
corner. QOpen 12: 00 - 24: 00, Fri , Sat 12: 00 - 04: 00.
AUEGW
Champions Sports Bar & Restaurant B- 4, Al.
Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. (+48)
22 630 51 19, www.champions.pl. A classic sports
bar filled with glittering trophies, signed shirts and other
sporting detritus. Some 30 screens and projectors beam
out action from across the world, while those wishing to
exercise more than their eyes can choose from pool tables,
playstations and dart machines that beep and whir dur-
ing moments of particular drama. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.
PAUXW
Hard Rock Cafe B- 4, ul. Zota 59 (Zote Tarasy), tel.
(+48) 22 222 07 00, www.hardrockcafe.pl. Sure you
dont need to see Freddie Mercurys red leather pants to
enjoy a night out, but it certainly doesnt hurt. The Hard Rock
Cafes large downstairs bar area is jumping at night even
when live rock shows arent on the agenda. The endless
bar mixes up a long list of colourful cocktails for a heavily
ex-pat crowd taking in paraphernalia like a well-worn Bee
Gees guitar and a black leather outfit that formerly clung
to Madonnas early 90s frame. When music is on tap the
crowd becomes more varied (and youthful) but just as
devoted to the strum of a Fender. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.
PAUEGW
Hydrozagadka ul. 11 Listopada 22 (Praga), tel.
(+48) 502 07 09 16, www.hydrozagadka.waw.pl.
You will not find a more unkempt bar than Hydrozagadka;
this place looks like its been ransacked by students, and
i ts almost advisabl e to check yoursel f for fl eas when
l eaving. Decorations aren t so much limi ted as virtuall y
non-existent, and you won t find much more than bri ck
walls and a coll ection of seats that appear to have been
rescued from the rubbish. But whil e i t l ooks scruf fy this
has emerged as one of the best places in town, wi th
of f-beat per formances enj oyed by a crowd that doesn t
get out of bed till way after noon. Q Open Fri, Sat onl y
19:00 - 05:00 and during the week when special events
are being hel d. PAUEXW
Jimmy Bradleys E- 3, ul. Sienna 39, tel. (+48) 22
654 66 56, www.jimmybradleys.pl. Ji mmy Bradl eys
was somethi ng of a l egend on the Warsaw expat scene
due i n the mai n to the l andl ord Kevi n Bradl ey a commi t-
ted publi can who was often caught conducting stringent
qual i ty checks wi th regul ars and vi si tors al i ke. But no
more. Kevi n has gone and wi th hi m so has the heart and
soul of the pl ace. I t i s sti l l an I ri sh themed bar. I t sti l l
of fers the ki nd of menu youd expect i n an I ri sh themed
bar. I t sti l l has Gui nness on tap and i t sti l l shows the
football on satelli te. But the reduced number of forei gn-
ers (where once i t was one of the most popul ar pl aces
i n town) shoul d tel l you al l you need to know about the
atmosphere. Oh and a menu board outsi de i n Pol i sh
of feri ng Pol i sh di shes rather gi ves the game away as
wel l.QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 03:00, Sat
12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. PAUEGW
A thriving capital city it might
be, but Warsaw still lags be-
hind other European hotspots
when it comes to hedonistic
capers. There i s no area
trul y set aside for nightli fe,
and hailing taxis to get from
Bar A to Club B is a tediously
frequent occurrence. The area around pl. Pilsudskiego
and pl. Teatralny has become a firm favourite with a
dressy crowd of new money Poles, somewhat replac-
ing the more established territories of Nowy Swiat, pl.
Trzech Krzyzy and ul. Sienkiewicza. I f dressing to the
nines is firmly out of the question then consider head-
ing across the river to the artsy bars cropping up in the
Praga district. In a worrying development many clubs
have now assumed the thinking that the clothes maketh
the man, and youll find most places now operating a
velvet rope door policy to ensure only those kitted in
their Saturday finery make it as far as the dance floor.
Open hours listed should onl y be treated as rough
approximation; in practice many bars and clubs will
open way beyond the call of duty i f the need arises,
but by the same benchmark will happily bolt the doors
i f business is slow.
Here are a few recommendations depending on what
you are looking for.
Local
Bierhalle is a large microbrewery on Nowy Swiat that
churns out respectable vats of beer in a central location.
Newcomer Srodmiejska has live music, a legit food
menu and a relaxed Warsaw hipster vibe.
Cheap
It has to be The Secret Garden, a ramshackle collection
of dive bars in the courtyard behind Nowy Swiat that of-
fers Warsaw drinking in its rawest form. And if you dont
mind herring and 5zl vodka shots explore the 24 hour
zakaskas bars like Warszawska and Pijalnia Wdki i
Piwa to drink like a local.
Lads
For Sky Sports and grub then take your pi ck from
The Bri ti sh Bul l dog, Warsaw Tortilla Factory,
Legends and Someplace Else. I f youve cl eaned
up and are ready to i mpress hi t up Foksal street
for cl ubs l i ke Sketch and Foksal XVI I I, whi ch boast
A-l i st cl i entel e. But i f your requi rements are a l i ttl e
more carnal read up on our adult section and then
proceed wi sel y.
Couples
If you like to swill custom cocktails try newcomer Pies
Czy Suka, but if you prefer your drinks in one of two
colours - white or red - then try Vinoteka 13. However
i f your true love is obscure beers then Konstytucja
Klubokawiarnia will melt your heart.
Splurge
Paparazzis cocktails are worth the dip into your wallet,
as are the drinks at the Marriotts Panorama bar, which
offers views from the 40th floor that will cost you. If youre
dressed to impress hit up Capitol for the chance to drink
like a champagne-loving oligarch.
Night at a glance
Bar Warszawa de Luxe B- 2, Krakowski e
Przedmiecie 79, tel. (+48) 510 40 08 64, www.
barwarszawa.pl. Bar Warszawas popularity has been so
explosive theyve created a satellite location, Bar Warszawa
Deluxe, to handle the late-night overflow. While the original
of this recipe at ul. Miodowa 2 - - which combines ridiculously
cheap Polish food and booze with nerdily dressed employ-
ees - - only services customers until 04:00, the Deluxe
version is open 24 hours slinging 9zl snacks like herring
and 5zl vodka shots. There is truly no better hangover cure
than their steaming flaczki and an unpasteurized local beer,
whatever the hour. Q Open 24hrs. UGB
Meta na Foksal C-3, ul. Foksal 21, tel. (+48) 22 826
45 13, www.metanafoksal.pl. Decorated with old vinyl,
newspaper clippings and propaganda posters this eat-on-
the-run venue unites Capitalist Warsaw with the PRL pig of
the past. Put simply this place is Przekski Zakski taken to
the next level, a very high one at that. Snacks weigh in at nine
zoty, and a shot of voddie at five. Also at ul. Mazowiecka
11 (B-3). QOpen 11:00 - 06:00. PAG
Pijalnia Wdki i Piwa C-4, ul. Nowy wiat 19, tel.
(+48) 796 11 00 00. When the vaunted New York
Times came to Warsaw to do a story on the growing trend
of old-school zakaskas bars - watering holes with cheap
4zl vodka and beer and piles of pork jelly - they headed
straight for the experts at Pijalnia Wodki i Piwa, the current
kings of the 24 hour Soviet-era drinking dens that have
seen a resurgence lately. Whether youre pregaming or
trying to prevent a hangover Pijalnia should be a necessary
stop on your night out; herring in oil, pigs feet and a mug of
beer will always be a good idea. Q Open 24hrs. PUG
Przekski Zakski B-2, ul. Ossoliskich 7
(entrance from ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie), tel.
(+48) 22 826 79 36, www.gessler.pl. Located on the
ground floor of what was once the Europejski Hotel the
impossibly named Przekski Zakski offers round-the-
clock bites to a loud line of boys and girls making their
way home from the pubs and clubs. Food is consumed
promptly and standing up, and traditionally topped off
with a shot of vodka. Q Open 24hrs. G
Warszawska F-4, Pl. Zbawiciela 5, tel. (+48) 600
12 12 40. If zakaskas bars are all the rage, then Warsza-
wska is currently top of the heap for the see-and-be-seen
set. Its location at the hipster epicenter of Pl. Zbawiciela
guarantees large late night crowds; a recent Friday night
saw numbers in the hundreds pouring out of the tiny bar,
sipping cheap beers while lazing on the torn up tram
tracks on ul. Marszakowska. Q Open 24hrs. AGW
Late Night Eats
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JPs Bar A-3, Al. Jana Pawa II 21 (The Westin Hotel),
tel. (+48) 22 450 86 30, www.westin.pl/en. An airy
hotel bar whose name is actually a reference to the bars
designer, not the wildly popular Pope John Paul II. Light
coloured furnishings come interspersed by a smattering
of house plants which look on as a well-dressed yet casual
crowd enjoys expertly poured premium drinks in the finest
of settings. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 01:00.
PAUGW
Kafefajka C-3, ul. Obona 9 lok. 101, www.kafefajka.
com. Duck inside Kafefajka and youll be rewarded with a bar
that simulates a Turkish tent complete with jangly music and
sweeping fabric hanging from the ceiling (and if youre lucky,
a belly dancer or two). The draw here is water pipes with un-
usual flavours; were partial to the melon, but apple-mint and
banana sound intriguing. The large space and open booths
are ideal for groups that like to pass the pipe and indulge
in Carlsberg or Okocim for less than 10z. Also at (C-4), ul.
Nowy wiat 26/28 pav. 20. QOpen 12:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 04:00, Sun 15:00 - 03:00. PAXW
Klaps C- 4, ul. Nowy wiat 22/28 (Pavilion 12a).
Peculiarities abound in the drinking maze known as The
Secret Garden, but none come close to matching Klaps in
the weirdness stakes. Theres dildos for beer taps and a wall
of plastic boobs, and like everywhere in this area, you wont
find beer costing more than 9z. Finding it is a challenge in
itself - its close to the passage that connects the courtyard
to Smolna. QOpen 15:00 - 02:00, Mon 15:00 - 01:00, Fri,
Sat 17:00 - 04:00, Sun 17:00 - 01:00. PAX
NEW
Konstytucja Klubokawiarnia F-4, Pl. Konstytucji 4,
tel. (+48) 606 45 38 01, www.konstytucja.waw.pl. Kon-
stytucja Klub wants badly to be located at hip Pl. Zbawicela,
and to be a legitimate destination for your next meal. Its
neither, but dont strike it from your list just yet. The beer list
alone is why well be returning, with more than 30 local beers
(Lwwek, Czarnkw, Cormorant) and even interlopers from
Ukraine and the Czech Republic to choose from. The menu
card describes each in detail and even offers pictures to boot,
so your choices - regardless of your blood alcohol level - will
always be informed. Live music on the weekend means you
wont be drinking alone, either. QOpen 07:30 - 24:00, Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 24:00. AUEGW
Kwadrat F-4, ul. Poznaska 7 (entrance from ul. Wil-
cza), tel. (+48) 608 64 99 41, www.kwadrat.waw.pl.
One of our favourite finds this year, Kwadrat is a tiny little
place thats not unlike popping round a mates house - pro-
vided your mate had seven tables and a fridge full of beer. And
wow, what a fridge it is. Hiding inside it find some of the great
beers of Poland, the Czech Republic and Ukraine, including
Ciechan and Obolon: superb brews that do a lot to redress the
damage caused by the megabrand beers. Theres not much
more to this place, just a friendly welcome, cheap prices,
chilled out tracks and a hip 20s crowd usually engrossed in
some board game or other. Highly recommended, even more
so if you just want a good night with select friends. QOpen
16:00 - 22:00, Fri 16:00 - 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00. Closed
Sun. PAGW
Plater 25, tel. (+48) 22 622 46 40, www.legendsbar.pl.
British owned and run, not 150 metres from the Marriott, this
is a resto-pub with a bright, clean look, four flatscreen tvs on
which you can watch SKY and Canal +, real dart boards and
a cracking menu of British-style grub to soak up the Polish
beer, British ales and rarely-seen spirits like Captain Morgan
dark rum. This is also one of the places that has built a new
indoor smoking room. To add that extra sports feel walls
come decorated with pictures depicting all the games the
British have invented for the rest of the world to beat them at.
QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00,
Sun 12:00 - 22:00. PABXW
Lokal Uytkowy B-1, ul. Brzozowa 27/29, tel. (+48)
22 831 85 67, www.lokaluzytkowy.org. If you need a
reason to visit old town then Lokal Uytkowy is it. Theres
an air of theatre chic to this bar, a super venue where
stripey scarves and an intellectual scowl are a must to fit
in. Populated by artists and wannabes this is by no means
the second-hand flea market venue youd assume, rather
a neat looking space decked with framed posters and red,
swivelly seats. But the real clincher is the beer, supplied by
Ciechan, practically the best Polish lager around. Q Open
Fri, Sat 18:30 - 23:00 and during events. Check their website
for schedule. AUEGW
Lolek E-5, ul. Rokitnicka 20, tel. (+48) 22 825 62
02, www.publolek.pl. No Warsaw summer is complete
without a visit to Lolek, a rotund bar in the thick of the Pole
Mokotowskie Park. If the sun is on form then join the oth-
ers, stretched on the grass with lager in hand while frisbee
players lark around in the distance. At other times head
indoors where Lolek assumes the look of a Munich beer
hall: lots of good humoured drunks clanking glasses on wood
bench seats. Stave off the hangover with soakage from the
open grill. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Mon, Tue 11:00 - 01:00.
AEXW
Mae Piwo F-4, ul. Oleandrw 4, tel. (+48) 510 905
592. Let the drunken masses have the popular bars around
Plac Zbawiciela; well take Mae Piwo any day. Sure, you
practically need a shoehorn to get inside this tiny place
(hence the name, which means small beer) but its well
worth the wedge. Though their premises are small the beer
list is vast and skews towards the obscure, with bottles from
Polish breweries like Browar Na Jurze and Browar Kormoran.
Dangling jars light the few tables, and a chalkboard behind
the bar tells you all you need to know about whats on offer.
Weve used more words to describe this place than they have
square metres, so go see for yourself. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.
PAUGW
Panorama Bar & Lounge B- 4, Al. Jerozolimskie
65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 630 74 34,
www.panoramabar.pl. Warsaws hi ghest bar - and
indeed Polands - sits on the 40th floor of the Marriott
with prices to match the top tier location. The views of
Warsaw glimmering below are outstanding, and theyre
no longer the only reason to visit. Gone is the JR Ewing
glitz and chrome, replaced instead by a tasteful interior
consisting of flock print wallpaper, violet seating and clever
lighting. Theres no better place for Sleepless In Seattle
seduction, or a corporate chinwag. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00.
PAUEXW
Paparazzi B-3, ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. (+48) 22 828
42 19, www.paparazzi.com.pl. Not everyones cup of tea
perhaps, but every time we come here we always think to
ourselves they get little wrong and a lot right. Serves good
food - and the kitchen is open nearly as late as the bar most
nights (until 01:00) - good cocktails and a decent pint. And,
whisper it, but you can smoke here: in fact, it is business as
usual on the smoking front, as the whole place is a smoking
zone, apart from two small tables at the entrance. Thats
why its full when all around is empty. Top marks. QOpen
18:00 - 03:00. PAXW
Centuries of hardcore Catholicism matched with provin-
cial attitudes have conspired to create an atmosphere
where homosexuality is still regarded as morally incor-
rect by much of the population. Warsaw does however
offer far more tolerance and understanding; 2010 saw
several thousand people march in Warsaw in the first
EuroPride event to be held in Central or Eastern Europe.
That said, the local government received a petition with
over 50,000 signatures demanding the parade itsel f
be cancelled.
In the past both the former prime minister, Jarosaw
Kaczyski, and his late twin, President Lech Kaczynski,
stirred discontent; the latter by proclaiming homo-
sexuali ty as unnatural and the former for stating
homosexuals should be banned from teaching posts.
Harsh sentiments, but not nearly as malignant as the
ones voi ced by LPR poli ti cian Woj ci ech Wi erzej ski,
whose memorable rants reasoned gays should be
bludgeoned they are all paedophiles and members
of the mafia.
Yet i nroads i nto bi gotry are bei ng made. I n 2004
Poland had i ts first gay wedding (not of fi ciall y rec-
ogni zed), and the fol l owi ng year Warsaws publ i c
transport body became the first company to officiall y
acknowl edge homosexual rel ati onshi ps by gi vi ng
gay empl oyees and their partners the ri ght to free
transport. Al though Warsaw, as yet, offers no natural
centre for the gay communi ty this can t be taken as
a si gn of something more sinister - even the strai ght
scene struggl es to boast any area that can be re-
garded as a true ni ghtli fe hub such as Barcel onas
Las Ramblas.
Whi l e publ i c demonstrati ons of af fecti on are at
best tol erated, at worst dangerous, the ci ty of fers
numerous gay fri endl y venues; whether they be the
trendy Mi dzy Nami caf (C-4, ul . Bracka 20), the
expat Tex-Mex favouri te the Warsaw Tor ti l l a Fac-
tor y (B-4, ul . Wi l cza 46) or ful l on techno hangouts
l i ke Luztro (C-4, Al . Jerozol i mski e 6). For gays i n
Pol and the road ahead remai ns a l ong one, but for
a countr y that sti l l l i sted homosexual i ty as a di s-
ease up unti l 1991 the nati on has al ready star ted
cauti ousl y edgi ng for ward. For fur ther i nfo on gay
l i fe i n Pol and cl i ck to the Engl i sh-l anguage websi te
www. gaygui de. net.
Fantom C- 4, ul. Bracka 20a (entrance through
the courtyard), tel. (+48) 22 828 54 09, www.
fantomwarsaw.com. The ol dest existing gay venue
i n Warsaw can be found down a dark cour tyard
on Bracka occupyi ng the basement of a pre-war
pal ace. Ri ng the buzzer on the ri ght hand entrance
and descend the stai rs to access thei r sauna. On
entry youl l be handed a pai r of nasty fl i p-fl ops and
a threadbare towel. I nsi de fi nd a bar area, and a
l ong corri dor that l eads to a scummy l ooking jacuzzi,
dark room and sauna. I t mi ght be murky, but thi s
i s defi ni tel y the choi ce of sauna for many of the
capi tals queers. The l eft hand entrance l eads to a
more ful l y-cl othed area wi th a popul ar bar, a coupl e
of ci nema screens and a l abyri nth. QOpen 14:00
- 03:00, Fri 14:00 - 05:00, Sat 16:00 - 05:00, Sun
16:00 - 03:00. PADXW
Gay Warsaw
Sure, it started out as
a joke: In 1990 satirist
Janusz Rewinski formed
the Pol i sh Fri ends of
Beer Party (Polska Par-
ti a Pr z yjaci ol Pi wa
or PPPP i n Pol i sh) to
promote the countrys
second most bel oved
beverage duri ng t he
new shi ft in government. The concept was popular
enough, in fact, to inspire a similar party in Russia as
well. And thanks to some disillusionment with Polands
democratic transition after the end of communism a
number of Poles voted for the prank party, and in the
1991 parliamentary elections 16 seats were nabbed
by the PPPP. What started out as a joke their slogan
regarding the party running Poland: it wouldnt be
better but for sure it would be funnier evolved into
a semi-serious platform thanks to the newly acquired
seats. Of course, the divided cannot conquer, so when
the party split into Large Beer and Small Beer factions
it signalled the end of the jokey era, and eventually
the Large Beer faction transformed into the far less
humorous Pol i sh Economi c Program. Today l i ttl e
remains of the group except for well-earned entries
in top ten lists of most ridiculous political parties and
Facebook groups celebrating the original idea: that
consuming quality beer is a symbol of freedom and a
better standard of living.
Polish Friends of Beer Party
polskapartianarodowa.org
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Sheesha Lounge B-3, ul. Sienkiewicza 3, tel. (+48)
22 828 25 25, www.sheesha.pl. Not your average War-
saw hangout, Sheesha forgoes the mainstream dance hits
favoured by the competition to bring a slice of the orient
to your doorstep. The DJs play jangly rhythms as an oc-
casional belly dancer floats past tables filled with sheesha-
smoking Varsovians. The crowd, which seems to span all age
groups, is reliably fun and relaxed. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00,
Fri 10:00 - 03:00, Sat 16:00 - 03:00, Sun 16:00 - 01:00.
PAEBXW
Sketch C-3, ul. Foksal 19, tel. (+48) 602 76 27 64,
www.sketch.pl. Sketch is something of a Warsaw classic.
Set in a sterile white hall the bars major lure is the beer,
namely the best selection youll find in the city. There are
about 130 to pick from, and these range from gourmet
Belgian to banana stuff from Ghana. The heavy import duty
has been directly handed down to the customer, with some
bottles selling for a wincing 25z, though youll find these
prices offset by calming lounge sounds and soothing lights
that glow from vertical columns. A smashing night, and one
which doesnt end until youre exactly that. QOpen 12:00 -
01:00. PAEGW
Skwer - filia Centrum Artystycznego Fabryka
Trzciny B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 60a, tel.
(+48) 508 36 58 49, www.fabrykatrzciny.pl. An offshoot
of Fabryka Trzciny, though a darn sight easier to get to than its
daddy bar/club. Situated inside a weird concrete bungle this
construction looks more like a car park than bar, but dont let
that stop you from further investigations. Concerts are fre-
quent, and frequently excellent, as are the book signings and
vernissages. The location splat in the middle of Krakowskie
Przedmiecie means theres no shortage of lookers to train
your eyes on. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. PAUEGW
SomePlace Else C-4, ul. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Warsaw
Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 450 67 10, www.warszawa.
someplace-else.pl. Someplace Else is an expat legend,
and the comfortable open-plan space and industrial bar are
a great setting for the mix of live sports and music that can
be found here almost every night of the week. Still boasting
one of the best bar menus in the city - were fans of the Orient
Express burger - its easy to come for dinner and stay into the
night to sample from the long list of extravagant cocktails
(flaming Lamborghini, anyone?). QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PAUEGW
NEW
rdmiejska B- 4, ul. Marszakowska 66 (corner of
ul. Wilcza), tel. (+48) 22 629 25 76. Srodmiejska is
the kind of bar/hang out spot that we wandered past a
million times before going in. Why? Because we knew wed
be hooked. Located in the middle of busy Marszalkowska,
Srodmiejska has so much space that you can catch the
latest local warbler in one room, nosh on their international
menu in another (Asian to Indian dishes) or suck down
drinks in the scattering of chairs out front. The vibe is
relaxed (so relaxed, in fact, that you can expect to pay
di fferent prices for the same drink). An excellent spot
to linger well into the night QOpen 13:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
13:00 - 04:00. AEXW
The Pictures Art Bar Cafe B- 4, ul. Chmielna
26, tel. (+48) 22 826 17 83, www.thepicturesbar.
com. Central , shi ny and new i t i s currentl y a l i t tl e
bi t hi t and mi ss here: some ni ghts i ts packed wi th
cocktai l -si ppi ng trendi es, at other ti mes i t can feel
l i ke doi ng sol i tar y. We l i ke i t though, not l east due
to the smar t ser vi ce, craf ty cocktai l l i st, si mpl e but
good and wel l pri ced food, and the ori gi nal ar t on the
wal l s (no reproducti ons here). Par ti cul arl y pl easant as
a cafe duri ng the day. QOpen 11: 00 - 24: 00, Fri , Sat
11: 00 - 02: 00. PAGW
Patricks Irish Pub B- 4, ul. Nowogrodzka 31, tel.
(+48) 22 628 93 71, www.patrickspub.pl. A grotty bar
that draws in sports fans and visiting stag parties in equal
measure. The air is thick with testosterone, the bar stools are
tree trunks covered in animal hides, theres nary a peep of
daylight and the toilets are still in a sorry state. All appealing
for men, but ladies beware. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 03:00. PAEGW
Pies Czy Suka/Pure Bar B-3, ul. Szpitalna 8A, tel.
(+48) 22 881 83 73, www.piesczysuka.com. Pies Czy
Suka (Dog or Bitch) is a high-end design boutique that
opened a craft cocktail bar with stunning results. The space
itself is what youd expect when design folk are in charge:
touchscreen menus and lots and lots of white. Yet the
imaginative drinks are they main focus, and though they dont
arrive quickly, but they do come with a free show; creating
molecular foam and juicing figs takes some elbow grease,
and conversations are punctuated by the loud, rhythmic
thwack of ice against the cocktail shaker. The recipes require
the kind of precision normally reserved for brain surgery, and
unexpected ingredients like dry ice and cranberry caviar
can often mean your drink requires a spoon. Expensive,
but worth every zloty - try the Gin Basil Smash or Warsaw
Ghetto Sour. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00.
PAGW
Plan B F-4, Al. Wyzwolenia 18, tel. (+48) 503 11 61 54,
www.planbe.pl. Walk up a curving stairwell to enter Plan
B, a venue where the ceilings are high and the windows are
low - so low youll have to crouch for views of pl. Zbawiciela.
Plan B has seen minimal investment, with a design that must
have set the owner back the price of a packet of sausages;
decor is limited to little more than tatty posters, white tiles
and sofas with springs practically sticking out of them. But
this place has become astonishingly popular, especially with
students and other sorts who look like theyve just finished
band practice. Dont be surprised to find the party spilling
outside, with gangs of drinkers chucking frisbees and shar-
ing sneaky puffs on Moroccan cigarettes. Drunkenness is
rife and encouraged, and its only fair to note this place has
become a bit of a magnet for expat lads looking to tap up
impressionable Polish girls. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
11:00 - 04:00, Sun 13:00 - 02:00. AXW
Po Drugiej Stronie Lustra H-1, ul. Jagielloska 22,
tel. (+48) 501 04 84 71, www.po2stronielustra.com.
This unique Praga bar used to be much like the district itself:
artsy, mysterious and a little bit junky. But after recently mov-
ing locations, the bar has left behind the thick layers of grime
and history at their former Zbkowska location and simply
brought their strongest suit - an endless collection of craft
beers - along with them to ul. Jagielloska. Sure, it feels a little
weird to not stick to the tables and to use a toilet that has
an actual seat attached, but were happy to exchange that
charm for a more grown up (and cleaner!) headquarters.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. AEXW
Saturator ul. 11 listopada 22 (Praga), tel. (+48) 515
46 42 09, www.saturator.art.pl. See your social standing
rocket by confessing knowledge of Saturator, a scruffy triple
floored artsy hangout in the battered buildings of Praga.
Do not come here if your idea of a good time is talking golf
tournaments and embassy junkets. If, however, youre the
sort of person with hangover stubble and a second hand
wardrobe then youll fit right in. Especially if you have a hat.
Nights in this wacky venue are symbolic of Pragas arthouse
renaissance, and last long into the night once DJs enter and
attempt to mix unmixable genres. QOpen 19:00 - 24:00, Fri,
Sat 19:00 - 05:00. AEX
Jung & Lecker B-4, ul. Emilii Plater 14, tel. (+48) 22
866 67 49, www.jungilecker.pl. We loved the back gar-
den here, a cool courtyard space festooned with paintings
and plantlife. Good thing the rest of it isnt bad either as the
garden is closed out of season. A simple, chic design that
doesnt go overboard, a wine list which is exhaustive, knowl-
edgeable service and an increasingly trendy location all win
it points. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. PAGW
Mielyski D-1, ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. (+48) 22
636 87 09, www.mielzynski.pl. Some claim this to
be Warsaws best wine bar, and they might well be onto
something. Expert service guarantees to identi fy the
wine that suits you, and the selection is utterly exhaus-
tive. An absorbing venue, with a decent menu of light
bites to compliment the drinking. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00,
Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:45 - 18:00. PAUGW
Vinoteka 13 & WINE BAR C-3, ul. Krakowskie
Przedmiecie 16/18, tel. (+48) 22 492 74 07, www.
likusconceptstore.pl. A beautiful wine bar tucked in
the basement of the Concept Restaurant. Distinctly high
class, the Vinoteka cellar houses wines from all corners
of the globe, with drinking conducted on low leather seats
scattered amid crates and casks. QOpen 12:00 - 21:00.
Closed Sun. PAGW
Wine
We know that sometimes theres a match and you just
have to see it. Where to go? Most bars with a screen will
subscribe to Canal + Sport, a channel that not only has
intensive coverage of the local sides, but also shows
English Premiership games each Saturday and Sunday.
The only downside is the droll Polish commentary rat-
tling on in the background. If you demand Sky Sports
then Warsaw has a number of decent options. All of
the following also relay the American version of football.
Plater 25, tel. (+48) 22 622 46 40, www.legends-
bar.pl. Found 150 metres from the Marriott is a British
bar, run by a Brit and with Sky and Canal+ available. Add
in a British food and ale menu and you should be sorted.
QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 -
02:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. PAXW
SomePlace Else C- 4, ul. Prusa 2 (Sheraton
Warsaw Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 450 67 10, www.
warszawa.someplace-else.pl. Located in the Shera-
ton, SPE has flat screens stationed around an upmarket
industrial space - even during the Sunday brunch televi-
sions did double duty showing ski races and tennis. A
great menu of American classics like burgers and steaks
along with an extravagant selection of drinks. QOpen
12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.
PAUEGW
Warsaw Tortilla Factory F-3, ul. Wilcza 46, tel.
(+48) 22 621 86 22, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl.
With Dubliner Niall in charge WTF have a set of screens
located around the bar, beer taps on tables, a killer
Tex-Mex menu and a separate smoking room. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. PAEBXW
Sport on TV
Metro Jazz Bar & Bistro F-3, ul. Marszakowska
99a (Metropol Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 325 31 06,
www.hotelmetropol.com.pl. Bathed in a soothing for-
est green glow this is a classic jazz bar where aesthetic
shortcomings are brushed over with a pot of atmosphere.
Take to one of the swivelly barside stools to knock back
the barmans creations while taking in nightly jazz perfor-
mances that fluctuate hugely in both style and volume.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PAUEGW
Tygmont B-3, ul. Mazowiecka 6/8, tel. (+48) 22
828 34 09, www.tygmont.com.pl. Live music venues
are thin on the ground in Warsaw, so the existence of
Tygmont isnt just good news, its great. That it proves a
bit of a revelation is even better. Touting the atmosphere
of a prohibition speakeasy Tygmont has a dark, smoky
look, and a musical menu that extends way beyond just
mainstream jazz. Be aware that disco and pop dance
nights rule the roost when there isnt a scheduled jazz
show (Mondays and Tuesdays are guaranteed jazz
nights), however. QOpen 20:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 19:00
- 01:00. Closed Sun. PAEGW
Jazz
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Warsaw Tortilla Factory F-3, ul. Wilcza 46, tel. (+48)
22 621 86 22, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl. This
long-established Tex-Mex bar is one of the go-to hangouts
for ex-pats, thanks in part to the Irish owner Niall, though
discerning the various accents becomes harder with every
margarita and Corona that goes missing. Once youre inside
theres something for everyone: Sky Sports on the TV, live
music on weekends, a decent pint of Murphys and 10zl
tacos if youre lucky enough to show up on a Thursday. The
global crowd is easy to mix with and accepting of outsiders,
especially when they buy the tequila shots. Added bonus: the
separate smoking room will save you a trip outside. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. PAEBXW
Warszawa Powile G-2, ul. Kruczkowskiego 3b, tel.
(+48) 22 474 40 84, www.powisle.blog.pl. Set in a
former ticket hall this PRL-era concrete rotunda proved one
of the hits of last summer, and a bit of a gathering ground
for those enjoying post-Luztro fix-me-ups. Interiors here
are all cheap and chipboard - tables included - and while it
looks tatty and torn its become a HQ of sorts for hardcore
clubbers hiding their horror behind reflective specs (which
explains why the neighbours want it shut down). How to find
it? Walk down the platform on Powile Station, then hang a
right down the stairs. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00
- 04:00. PAUGBW
W Oparach Absurdu (In The Mists of Absurdity)
H-1, ul. Zbkowska 6, tel. (+48) 660 78 03 19, www.
oparyabsurdu.pl. This bar could have a weird-off with
fellow Praga bar Po Drugiej Stronie Lustra that would eas-
ily end in a draw. Both favour twinkle lights, flea market
knick-knacks and crap furniture, though Absurdu has em-
braced colour, and bright murals, to set it apart. Absurdu
is spread over numerous rickety levels and populated by
local bohemians who crave live music and strong drinks.
A small menu of snacks and Polish staples (yep, pierogis)
are available to line your stomach. QOpen 12:00 - 03:00.
PAUEXW
Znajomi Znajomych C-4, ul. Wilcza 58a, tel. (+48)
22 628 20 61, www.znajomiznajomych.waw.pl. With two
levels and a strange arrangement of rooms newcomer Zna
Zna can feel as if youre wandering through an M.C. Escher
drawing. Heres a primer: the first floor features a large smok-
ing room and several adjacent rooms with seating, and the
main floor has a bar with DJ/dance floor - we saw a keytar
being played - and more labyrinthine seating areas. The pile of
taxis outside should tell you this is currently one of Warsaws
favourite places, with huddles of hipsters and interpretive
dancers sharing space and spilling drinks together. Theres
even a respectable menu of pasta and pizza thats available
into the weekend wee hours (weekdays 1 a.m., weekends 3
a.m.) to soak up the booze. Recommended. QOpen 12:00
- 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 04:00, Sat 16:00 - 04:00, Sun 16:00 -
24:00. PAEXW
Clubs
Clubs in Warsaw range from sedate to sinful, and we cover
the full gamut here. A night spent clubbing means youll
most likely greet the dawn because, unlike the closing
times you might be used to, Polish clubs stay open until
the sun comes up. Expect a cover charge at most venues
that can range from 5-20zl depending on events, and note
that toilet paper is often a luxury that seem to universally
run out around 10 p.m. For the speci fics of whats on daily
visit warsaw.inyourpocket.com and check out our Events
Calendar, which givies you a breakdown of all the evenings
club nights with one click.
1500m2 do wynajcia H- 3, ul. Solec 18/20, tel.
(+48) 22 628 84 12, www.1500m2.com. Enormous,
as in 1,500 square metres enormous, though stri ctl y
speaking still very much the whispered meeting point
of those In The Know. Theres pl enty of abandoned in-
dustrial space in Warsaw, and places like this are finall y
utilizing i t. I ts hard to define 1500m2, and depending
on the event youll fi nd i t functi oni ng as ei ther a bar,
club, concert venue or gall ery - sometimes all four. The
interiors have seen i t all, from a Val entines Fetish Ball
to the Prodi gy Afterparty; this warehouse styl e thing
has hosted some of the edgi est ni ghts in town, so no
wonder then some scene peopl e are touting i t as the
hippest haunt in the city. A newly added restaurant called
Bistro sto900 of fers a place to refuel as well. QOpen
22:00 - 06:00. Cl osed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. Open
duri ng the week when special events are bei ng hel d.
Check Facebook for details. AEXW
Bank Club B- 3, ul. Mazowiecka 14, tel. (+48) 22
468 85 10, www.bankclub.pl. Oh yes. A hi t from day
one this is Warsaws latest bar and club of choi ce. We
are no experts in running a club (i f we were we woul d
own a chain of them) but we know that whatever that
certain something is whi ch clubs have to posses to be
good, then Bank has i t in abundance. Smooth sounds,
tastefull y el egant decor and refreshi ngl y li ttl e ki tsch.
I t i s al so a l ovel y buil di ng. Wi th a well -ai red smoki ng
section and drinks at a reasonabl e pri ce i ts not onl y for
bankers, either. Q Open Thu, Fri, Sat onl y 22:00 - 04:00.
PAUEXW
Club Capitol B-2, ul. Marszakowska 115, tel.
(+48) 608 08 96 71, www.clubcapitol.pl. Gl obal
recession you say? Nobody tol d the chaps at Capi tol, a
jaw dropper of a venue whose opening confirms north
Warsaws status as the of fi cial party part of the ci ty.
Fill ed wi th post-socialist bling this venue is immense,
and has seen the contents of an oli garchs deposi t box
thrown i nto i mpressi ve i nteri ors. A pneumati c set of
breasts shoul d be enough to guarantee femal e entry,
whil e boys shoul d consi der adding an arrogant l ope to
their step and some designer horses to their clothes. And
the promoters havent been slouches either, having so far
secured the appearance of several club circui t l egends.
Theres no set opening hours, though i ts safe enough
to assume that i f i ts a weekend i ts open. Q Open Fri,
Sat onl y 22:00 - 05:00. PAXW
Club Mirage B-4, Pl. Defilad 1 (entrance from ul. Emilii
Plater), tel. (+48) 22 620 14 54, www.clubmirage.pl.
A totally unique experience, this is a club like no other in
Warsaw. Not because its anything particularly special, but
because it is set in the bowels of the monstrous Palace of
Culture. Descend the stairs through the entrance facing the
central railway station into a mass of writhing young bodies
getting down around the centrepiece fountain. Once youre
done there, retreat to the long bar and lounge area to relax
before heading back out into the surprisingly unpretentious
party crowd. The coat check looked after by moustachioed
men in their 50s gives a small hint of the days when this
place must have been frequented by the great and not so
good of communist Poland. QOpen 21:00 - 05:00, Wed, Thu
21:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PAEX
After holding out to be one of the few remaining EU
countries with no or very few prohibitions on smoking, a
new law brought in on the 15th November 2010 aimed to
limit the activities of smokers in public places.
Smoking is now completely banned on public transport in-
cluding taxis, trains, company cars, public transport stops,
childrens playgrounds, schools, universities, workplaces,
sports arenas and other places where the public gather.
Owners are obliged to clearly place a clear and visible No
Smoking sign and anyone caught smoking by either the
police or local city guard is subject to a 500zl fine.
There are, however, exceptions. It is possible to smoke
in some bars, clubs, restaurants and other public places.
The law states that there can be a SEPARATE ROOM
created for smokers as long as it is properly ventilated
and closed off from the other public areas (originally this
was only going to be permitted in premises over 100m
2
,
but that doesnt seem to have been included). As many
places listed in this guide are simply too small to allow
for a separate room, this has automatically made them
subject to the ban. To help you to find or avoid places
which will continue to allow smoking on the premises we
have used the following symbols throughout the guide
G This place has a complete ban on smoking on the
premises
X This place has a smoking section on the premises
Having now had some time to gauge reaction it appears
that owners have followed one of three courses of action.
Firstly they have through choice or necessity obeyed the
law and the whole premises are now non-smoking. A
second group, generally those with bigger premises, have
exercised their right to build a smoking room. The third
group have examined the wording of the law and then driven
an articulated lorry through the holes left by incompetent
legislators. We have seen examples of entire bars allowing
smoking by making the vast majority of the place smoking
with a small area in the front, back or downstairs, set aside
for non-smokers. We have even seen an example of two
restaurants joining together and claiming the smoking area
is in one restaurant while the non-smoking area is in the
one next door. And were not sure if some of the bars and
clubs in Kazimierz are even aware that there is a new law
at all. The looseness of the wording of the new law and
the apparent inability or will to police it suggest that while
it will certainly reduce smoking in many public places, it will
still allow it to continue in a lot of others. Choose carefully.
Smoking
Proven masters of make-do with the potato as their
primary resource, the Poles have been producing and
drinking vodka since the early Middle Ages, distilling
their skill into some of the best vodka blends available
in the world, many of which date back centuries. The
two most highly regarded clear Polish vodka brands
must be Belvedere and Chopin, both of which youll
find in any alcohol shop.
While clear vodkas are generally reserved for giving
away at weddings and mixing in cocktails, the real fun
of Polish vodka sampling is the flavoured vodkas. Un-
like beer with juice (regarded as highly emasculating),
flavoured vodkas are embraced by both sexes and
imbibed copiously. Most bartenders should be able to
provide you with a couple of these Polish specialities
Krupnik Popular in Poland and Lithuania, Krupnik
is a sweet vodka made from honey and a multitude of
herbs. Buy a bottle for Mum drinking vodka doesnt
get any easier than this. In winter, hot krupnik is a
popular personal defroster with hot water, lemon and
mulling spices added. You will often see it set on fire
with coffee beans floating in it. Beware
Mead This drink preceded beers arrival in Poland
and has remained a favouri te since. Distill ed from
honey, the drink comes in three strengths with Poltorak
(the kings preference) being the strongest.
Nalewka Barrel aged vodka flavoured with fruits,
herbs and spices. A national speciality, most Polish
drinkers will push this on you at some point, and it
makes a nice change from downing the straight stuff.
Podpiwek This is the Polish kvass, a light yeasty
drink whi ch is wi del y availabl e though you may be
mocked for ordering it. Best for the lightweights as
its name translates as sub-beer.
Wcieky Pies Translated as Mad Dog, this is a
shot made up of vodka, raspberry syrup, Tabasco
and favoured by students and all those wishing to go
home on all fours.
Winiwka
Undoubtedl y the most common fl avoured vodka,
winiwka is a cheap, dangerously easy to drink, cherry
flavoured variety. Youll see students and pensioners
alike buying trays of it at the bar, as well as toothless
tramps sharing a bottle in corners of tenement court-
yards. A splash of grapefruit juice is often added to
cut the sweetness of this bright red monogamy cure.
odkowa Gorzka
Due to its very name, which translates to something
like Bitter Stomach Vodka, odkowa Gorzka gives
even the most infirm of heal th an excuse to drink
under the guise of its medicinal properties. An aged,
amber-coloured vodka flavoured with herbs and spices,
odkowa has a unique aroma and sweet spiced taste
unlike anything youre likely to have tried before. Incred-
ibly palatable, its best enjoyed when sipped on ice.
Zubrowka One of Polands most popular overseas
vodka expor ts, ubrwka has been produced i n
Eastern Poland since the 16th century. Flavoured with
a type of grass speci fic to the primeval Biaowiea
Forest that straddles the border (a blade of which ap-
pears in each bottle), ubrwka is faint yellow in colour,
with a mild fragrance of mown hay and a subtle taste
which has been described as floral or having traces
of almond or vanilla. Delightfully smooth as it is on
its own, ubrwka is most commonl y combined with
apple juice a refreshing concoction called a tatanka.
Polish Alcohol
72
NIGHTLIFE
73
NIGHTLIFE
Dekada E-4, ul. Grjecka 19/25, tel. (+48) 22 823 55
58, www.dekada.pl. Adventures and amorous encounters
come guaranteed in this slice of Warsaw folklore, a direct
result of the people found inside. Here its all 007 Barbie
bombshells soaking up attention off expats twice their age,
an interesting mix that combines for colourful nights. Watch
the pantomime while sitting inside a 1950s tram, or else take
your chances on a dance floor that packs out most nights -
the musical menu changes daily, with weekends tending to
err towards disco and chart sounds. QOpen 21:00 - 03:00,
Fri, Sat 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. May be open on
select Tuesdays if concerts booked. PAEX
de lite club C-4, ul. Marii Konopnickiej 6, www.delite-
club.com. Hot-pink newcomer De Lite already has a crush of
visitors wedging themselves on the dance floor and around the
backlit bar. A giant screen projects images on the wall of the
dance floor as DJs spin, while the elite can retreat to a plush
VIP area filled with couches and pillows for winding down away
from the masses. And yes, thats an umbrella in your cocktail.
The quintessential club experience in Warsaw. QOpen 22:00 -
07:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PAXW
Fabryka Trzciny ul. Otwocka 14 (Praga Pnoc), tel. (+48)
22 619 05 13, www.fabrykatrzciny.pl. Housed in a battered
factory building this spot has the scummy charisma of mid-90s
Berlin. Brick walls, dials and pipes have been left exposed, with
leather sofas and red emergency lamps sprinkled at random
intervals. Edgy artwork and experimental sounds complete the
concoction. Not open daily, but youll usually find special events
going off each weekend and this has emerged as one of the
most popular haunts for private fuctions, catwalk shows and
launch parties. Q Open during events only. PAUEGW
Foksal XVIII C-3, ul. Foksal 18, tel. (+48) 885 17 08
85. The star-studded summer opening was our first clue that
Foksal XVIII aims to take the Warsaw club scene by storm.
The interior mixes swank (chandeliers) with urban (exposed
brick) with the inexplicable (cardboard animal mounts!) in this
large basement space. DJs keep the dance floor - accented
with a massive disco ball - packed for a crowd that is both
classier and better dressed than your typical booty-shaking
slopfest. So visitors should take note: To mingle with the A-
list youll need to bring your A game. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00.
Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PAEX
Opera B-2, Pl. Teatralny 1, tel. (+48) 22 828 70 75,
www.operaclub.pl. A no-expense spared design master-
piece found in the basement of the National Opera. Descend
the curving stairwell and all youll see is boys with attitude,
dressed in popped collared polo shirts, and a heart-stopping
spread of gazelle-like girls. If you were wondering where the
good lookers went, youve found the answer. Tread down wood
boards and through vaulted tunnels to reach the main arena,
checking out the numerous side rooms on the way; this place
was formerly known as Bedroom, and thats because of the
alcoves found shooting off in every direction. Each comes
decorated with poufs, loungers and Persian drapes, and serve
as a great spot to enjoy illicit activities. QOpen 22:00 - 06:00.
Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PAEXW
Organza B-3, ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. (+48) 513 13
77 44, www.kluborganza.pl. After a 10 year streak on the
Warsaw scene Organza had to close down and move, but
that short hiatus has not caused it to lose its footing. The
new black-and-orange bi-level space is regularly packed, and
apparently no one here thinks disco is dead as the regular
Wednesday disco fever dance parties attest. If hen parties
and students dont make you cringe then neither will Organza.
QOpen 22:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue. PAEX
Platinium Club B-2, ul. Fredry 6, tel. (+48) 22 596 46
66, www.platiniumclub.pl. Status is everything in Warsaw,
and youll be awarded plenty of it if you can wheedle past
the gatekeepers at Platinium. Door policy is stringent here,
mercilessly culling the beasts from the beautiful, thus ensur-
ing everyone inside is either rich or beautiful - sometimes
both. Regarded as Warsaws finest club this place, set inside
a historic former bank, has seen plenty of money spent, with
a design that includes marble columns, chandeliers and glow-
ing floors. This is champagne living Warsaw-style, meaning
hot sounds from the DJ decks and a riotous party that goes
way, way late. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 08:00.
Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PAUEX
NEW
Room 13 Club & Lounge B-3, ul. Mazowiecka 13, tel.
(+48) 22 827 60 44, www.room13.pl. Warsaw has had
the benefit of a club explosion (clubsplosion?) lately, and after
visiting venue upon venue Room 13 is the one that stands
out. The interior has a striking fallen angel theme, with pillowy
clouds painted across the ceilings in the multiple rooms, and
giant images of what Victorias Secret has taught us an angel
looks like. And if your idea of heaven is two bars, VIP space, a
wide array of music and lots of high heels, then consider this your
HQ. QOpen 22:13 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PAGW
Utopia B-3, ul. Kredytowa 9, tel. (+48) 22 826 58 35.
Utopia has been revived after closing its old spot on Jasna,
and this time its more inclusive than ever: hen parties mix with
the rainbow flag set, all in the name of hip-popping, locking
and twerking. A popular local favourite, Utopia has added a
fall cinema that will be open Wednesday to Sunday at dusk for
twilight film screenings, a rare but welcome foray into sober fun
for this crowd.QOpen Fri, Sat only 22:00 - 05:00. PAXW
NEW
Watch Me B-3, ul. Mazowiecka 6/8, tel. (+48) 22 828
34 04, www.watchmeclub.pl. If we knew the exact recipe
for what makes one club door busting and the next a dead
zone wed sell it by the bucketful. And our first client would
likely be Watch Me, a newcomer that hasnt quite found its
legs (or its clientele) yet. The multi-level space isnt neces-
sarily doing anything wrong - theres a large dance space,
capable barmen, all the neon lights you could ask for - but
so far it just hasnt caught on. QOpen 19:00 - 02:00, Fri,
Sat 19:00 - 05:00. PAXW
Microbreweries
Bierhalle D-1, Al. Jana Pawa II 82 (Arkadia), tel. (+48)
601 67 79 62, www.bierhalle.pl. An industrial moti f
prevails in Bierhalle, with giant tailor-made brewing vats,
brickwork and pipes springing from every corner. The beer
Whether you call it Poland is Not
Yet Lost, Song of the Polish Le-
gions of Italy or Dbrowskis Ma-
zurka, they all describe the same
thing: Polands national anthem.
Despite the various sombre titles
the anthem is composed in the
cheerful style of a Polish mazurka,
which is lively Polish folk music
that utilises a triple meter, and is
played at major sporting events and national holidays.
The song was originally penned by Jzef Wybicki in Italy,
where General Jan Henryk Dbrowski and his troops
were helping Napoleon conquer Italy at the end of the
18th century, shortly after the Third Partition of Poland
effectively erased Poland from the map (hence the line
March, March Dbrowski, from Italian lands to Pol-
ish marsz, marsz Dbrowski, z ziemi woskiej do
Polski in Polish). Neighbours Prussia, Russia and Austria
dissolved the once-powerful empire, forcing the Poles to
turn to France as an ally in regaining Polish independence.
General Henryk Dbrowski organised soldiers to fight with
Napoleon against the Austrians, with the hope of pushing
that fight into the homeland for a national uprising.
Wybickis tune was created to boost the morale of those
soldiers and proved to be an instant hit far beyond the
front lines thanks to its uplifting lyrics, which start with
this stanza:
Poland has not perished yet
So long as we still live
What foreign force has taken from us
We shall take back with the sabre.
The anthem contains a reference
to Napoleon with whose armies
the Poles hope to cross the Vistula
and Warta (rivers) .... Bonaparte
has shown us the roads to victory.
Unfortunately, as with most Polish
tales, things did not end well for
Dbrowski and his soldiers. The
French turned out to be less than
useful allies, exploiting the Polish
soldiers and decimating their ranks
via war and disease, effectively kill-
ing any chance of recapturing the homeland. But when
Poland once again became a free nation at the end of
WWI the song was revived and declared the countrys
official anthem in 1926.
One of the most famous performances of Poland is Not
Yet Lost came in 1945, when famed Polish pianist Artur
Rubinstein performed at the opening concert at the inau-
guration of the United Nations. Upset that Poland had no
delegation, Rubinstein played a loud, slow version of the
anthem, repeating the final section loudly. This display of pa-
triotism resulted in Rubinstein receiving a standing ovation.
The composer Jzef Wybicki called Polands Kashubia re-
gion home, and today diehards can visit the manor house
he lived in, which is now home of the rather unusual Na-
tional Anthem Museum. To hear the anthem click on the
link at president.pl/en/about-poland/national-symbols
National Anthem
LETS FALL TOGETHER
IN ROOM13
Mazowiecka 13
+48 22 827 60 44
info@ room13.pl
www.room13.pl
www.facebook.com/room13club
WED-SAT: 22.13
is brewed on-site, and presented in frothy steins by wenches
squeezed into peasant bodices. Our favourite is the pils, and
it tastes even better when you ask for a dash of caramel to
be added to your brew. Domestic sad cases rejoice, bottles,
barrels even, of beer are available for takeaway. QOpen
11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. PAUGW
BrowArmia B-3, ul. Krlewska 1, tel. (+48) 22 826
54 55, www.browarmia.pl. Warsaws other microbrewery
tends to live in the shadow of the more famous Bierhalle,
and though it fails to share the lively atmosphere of its rival
Browarmia is by no means second best. Theres a decent
design here, with all the requisite pipes, dials and tanks on
display, as well as a good menu that trounces the competi-
tion. More importantly the beer is top standard and all,
and best imbibed on a seasonal terrace looking onto the
revamped Krakowskie Przedmiescie. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
PAEXW
74
ADULT ENTERTAINMENT
75
ADULT ENTERTAINMENT
Coyote Bar & Night Club B- 3, ul. Mazowiecka
6/8, tel. (+48) 505 46 90 56, www.coyotebar.eu. On
the new Street of Sin that is ul. Mazowiecka, Coyote Club
is an adult entertainment establishment of the girls in
their underwear which leaves little to the imagination will
dance for you variety. Drinks (the beers at least) are not
as outrageously priced as in other similar places and we
have to say that the girls we bumped into when we popped
in for a quick one were sirens. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00, Sun
20:00 - 03:00. PAUXW
Kokomo B- 4, Al. Jerozolimskie 53 (entrance from
ul.Pankiewicza 4), tel. (+48) 22 356 20 16, www.
kokomo.com.pl. One of the most central strip bars in
Warsaw, though dont let that stop you taking advantage
of the Kokomo limo service. From there on in its your eyes
that will be doing all the work as they pinball around their
sockets focusing on the troupe of pin-up bunnies. Two rooms
to choose from, as well as a well-stocked drink bar serving
all the concoctions necessary to complete your preview of
heaven. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00. PAG
Libido Gentlemans Club B-3, ul. Kredytowa 9, tel.
(+48) 22 828 23 07, www.libidoklub.pl. Newcomer Li-
bido was designed with the customer in mind: the large onyx
bar doubles as a runway for strippers, who sashay past
gaping customers (watch your drinks!) on their way to one
of three mid-bar poles. Head to the basement i f you prefer
your dances more intimate, where closed-off booths let
the dancers get up close and personal for 50zl. Everything
from the coat check to the bathrooms is above board, a nice
change for those who like their entertainment without the
usual seedy undertones. Q Open 21:00 - 05:00. Closed
Sun. PAX
New Orleans Gentlemens Club B-3, ul. Zgoda
11, tel. (+48) 22 826 48 31, www.neworleans.pl.
From Monday to Thursday youll find the girls kitted out in
evening dress, with a higher-class of punter choosing the
girl of his dreams before sitting down to a good, intelligent
natter. Of course, this being a strip club, the removal of
the aforementioned evening dress is also an available op-
tion. At weekends youll find New Orleans reverting to the
more standard formula, with girls tottering around in next
to nothing, and offering the usual hip-grinding action. Now
added, a night restaurant with an erotic menu featuring
oysters, lobster and Argie steak. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00.
PAXW
Sofia F- 4, ul. Polna 13, tel. (+48) 22 224 25 24,
www.klubsofia.pl. A l egend i n nineti es and noughti es
Warsaw, there was a time no sel f-respecting mal e coul d
l eave Warsaw wi thout having first visi ted Sofia. Those
days may have gone and so i t seemed had Sofia. But i t
appears not wi th the opening of this place, three years
after the ori ginal cl osed, j ust down from Pl. Zbawi ci ela
whi ch boasts a modern spacious club area and a host
of minimall y dressed women. In the wil d days of nineti es
Warsaw this was known in l ocal parlance as The Bul gar-
ian Embassy. I tll be interesting to see i f i t li ves up to the
reputation i t buil t then. Q Open 20:00 - 05:00. Cl osed
Sun. PAUX
Whats going on in Poland?
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Those who vi si ted Warsaw i n the ni neti es and around
the turn of the century may have l i ngeri ng memori es
of a seri ousl y mucky ci ty. Wi th an esti mated 1,500
brothels in operati on the ci ty established a reputati on
as a desti nati on for hai r pal med perverts. Then al ong
came the l ate Lech Kaczynski as Mayor of Warsaw
who became an one man anti -sl eaze machi ne dri ven
by a zeal ous desi re to restore Warsaws l ost i nno-
cence. Whi l e he never ful l y succeeded i n cl eansi ng
Warsaw of the brothel s and the fl yers Kaczynskis
crusade had a stri ki ng i mpact.
One of the resul ts of thi s campai gn i s that Warsaw
now of fers a col l ecti on of seemi ngl y l egi ti mate and
on the whol e, fai rl y presentabl e Gentl emens Cl ubs.
Brothel s sti l l exi st but not i n the huge numbers
that they once di d. Al though there i s no speci fi c
red l i ght di stri ct youl l fi nd a smal l concentrati on of
brothel s around al. Jerozol i mski e, ul. Wi l cza and ul.
Nowogrodzka. Theyre si mpl e enough to fi nd, j ust l ook
for the fl yers pinned to car windscreens or cl ogging up
the gutters. Don t expect Engl i sh to be spoken, and
don t reckon on bei ng greeted by the si rens pi ctured
on the aforementi oned fl yers.
Now, i n the ol d days wed use thi s poi nt to fi re some
recommendati ons your way. Legal factors now make
that a fool hardy path to pursue, so i nstead we advi se
prospecti ve punters to vi si t the Pol i sh forums on
www.i nternati onal sexgui de.com, where the message
boards are al i ve wi th the l atest despatches from the
frontline, as well as pics and maps from the more com-
mi tted posters. For i ndependent gi rl s check websi tes
such as www.odl oty.pl and www.sexatl as.pl, where
youll find a choi ce of li terall y hundreds upon hundreds
of fei sty Pol i sh gi rl s promi si ng a l i vel y ti me. Your thi rd
choi ce i s to si mpl y put your fai th i n a taxi dri ver. More
often than not thi s wi l l i nvol ve bei ng dri ven to the
suburbs and to whi chever brothel i s gi vi ng the cabbi e
a ki ckback. Pri ces i n these hi gh end establ i shments
will tend to start at 200zl, though don t be tri cked i nto
buyi ng champers for the l ady unl ess youre sure you
can af ford i t. Si mil arl y, greenhorns shoul d watch thei r
wal l et i n stri p cl ubs - bi l l s easi l y spi ral, even more so
when the dri nks start bei ng poured.
Scumbag, fl y-by-ni ght brothel s sti l l exi st; STDs are a
fact of the trade, and don t thi nk for one j i f fy youre
beyond reproach. Do not assume ei ther that the
Barbi e of your choi ce i s on the game because she
enj oys rol l i ng around wi th agi ng bal di es. Pol and
has an appal l i ng record where human traf fi cki ng i s
concerned, and i ts safe to assume a fai r few l adi es
staf fi ng such venues have been coerced i nto thei r
career. Fi nal l y, the venues l i sted here are general l y
central and establ i shed but pl ease be warned that i n
recent months weve had a report of 8,000zl bei ng
spent wi l l i ngl y i n one cl ub l i sted here and another of
8,000 sterl i ng bei ng spent unwi l l i ngl y i n one whi ch i s
not l i sted here. I n the second case hal f of the money
was retri eved from the bank because of payment
i rregul ari ti es but be on your guard.
Vice advice
76
77
HISTORY HISTORY
Earl y for ti fi ed settl ements
are believed to have existed
in what is now the district of
Brodo as far back as the 9
th

century, and while historians
st r uggl e t o concl usi vel y
agree as to exactl y when
Warsaw was founded most
appear to accept that the
first recorded mention of the
ci ty can be traced to 1313.
Things started looking up for
the ci ty i n 1413, when the
ruling Dukes decided to shi ft
the capital of Mazovia from Czersk to Warsaw. Over the next
century it gathered importance as a trading point, and was
incorporated into the Kingdom of Poland in 1526. The town
was expanding in both status and stature, though nothing was
to prepare it for the bombshell that arrived in 1569. The Union
of Lublin amalgamated Poland with Lithuania, and as such the
decision was taken to centralize parliament and move it from
Krakw to Warsaw. Twenty seven years later, in 1596, King
Zygmunt III Vasa decided to follow suit and shifted his Royal
Court north as well, thereby making Warsaw capital of this
newly-formed commonwealth. Of course, Warsaw then was
a different creature to the Warsaw of now. The old town area,
secured by its walls, consisted of 169 houses, while another
204 homes stood just outside this protective boundary. In total
just 14,000 people lived in the newborn capital.
Testing times lay ahead. Between 1665 and 1668 Warsaw
was ransacked three times, and if it the natives thought
that was bad you should have seen their faces in 1700; the
Great Northern War kicked off when an anti-Swedish alliance
comprising of Russia, Poland and Denmark launched the
opening attack. The Swedes werent having any of it, and by
1702 their counter-attack had landed them at the gates of
Warsaw. Over the next few years Warsaw was passed back
and forth like a bag of sweets, sustaining heavy economic
and physical damage in the process. The war, a right epic
scrap if ever there was, drew to a close in 1721 and Warsaw
was finally left to pick up the pieces and move forward.
The Collegium Nobilium, a posh boarding school for the
landed classes, was opened in 1740, and this was promptly
followed by Polands first library seven years later. This age
of enlightenment promised much for Poland, a fact not lost
on her three neighbours: Prussia, Russia and Austria. Little
Poland was clearly getting too big for her boots, so the three
acted swiftly by imposing the First Petition of Poland in 1772,
a move which essentially robbed the country of a third of
its territory and population. Nonetheless, her three bullying
neighbours clearly hadnt counted on Stanisaw August
Poniatowski, the countrys last king, and arguably her finest.
It was under his leadership the Constitution of May 3
rd
was
ratified in 1791. This landmark code was the first of its kind
in Europe (and only second in the world after the USA), with
reforms focused on handing more power and freedom to
the general populace. Poniatowski was hailed as almost
visionary in his outlook, however his ideas once more stirred
his neighbours into action. This time round both Prussia and
Russia moved to weaken Poland in The Second Partition of
Poland (1793), snatching away 308,000 sq/km of territory,
and reducing her to just 223,000 sq/m.
Provoked by this latest aggression the Poles fought back
launching The Peasant Uprising of 1794. Led by Tadeusz
Kociuszko the insurgents scored a notable victory at
Racawicka, but eventually superior numbers told and the
rebellion ended in surrender. The following year Russia,
Prussia and Austria joined together to carve what remained
of Poland between them.
Napoleon offered the capital brief respite, and when his
armies marched eastwards in 1807 he created a semi-
independent Duchy of Warsaw. His failings on the battlefields
of Russia led to defeat, and within eight years Russian forces
had pushed the Frenchman back and regained Warsaw as
their own; Poland had effectively been wiped off the map.
Discontent with Russian rule was to come to a boil twice in the
following decades: first in the form of the November Insurrection
of 1831, and then again with the January Uprising of 1863. Both
rebellions were brutally crushed, and saw more patriots packed
off to serve penance in Siberia. Strangely, however, it was these
dark years that saw Warsaw blossom. Under the auspice of
Russian-born Mayor Sokrates Starynkiewicz the city developed
at lightning pace, and by the time of his death in 1902 the town
had acquired a modern sewage system, street-lighting, paved
streets and over 2,500 newly planted trees.
Still, resentment over foreign rule continued to linger, and it
was only the outbreak of World War One that promised hope.
The collapse of the Eastern Front saw the last Russian troops
leave in 1915, though these were immediately replaced
with German uni forms. Only when Germany signed the
armistice in 1918 was Poland finally freed from the shackles
of occupation. Arriving overnight in a sealed wagon, Jsef
Pisudski, a patriot who had been imprisoned in Magdeburg,
reached Warsaw on November 11 to assume leadership of
the nation. By the time of his death in 1935 this national
hero witnessed the introduction of the zoty, a failed coup
and the assassination of President Narutowicz. Even allowing
for these, nothing came close to the defeat of the Red Army
during the Polish-Soviet War of 1919-1921, a triumph which
not just guaranteed Polands short-term future, but Europes.
The twenti es and thirti es saw Warsaw fl ourish i nto a
confident, successful city, alas, we all know what was to come.
September 1 saw Nazi Germany start WWII with their attack
on the Westerplatte Peninsula in north Poland. By morning
Luftwaffe squadrons were firebombing Warsaw, and in spite
of dogged resistance the capital finally fell on September 30
th
.
The fate of the Jewish population, and the Warsaw Uprising, is
documented in detail elsewhere in the guide, so fast forward
instead to January 17, 1945. Liberation of sorts had arrived,
unfortunately for the Poles it meant spending much of the
following five decades under Soviet hegemony. In the wave
of Stalinist terror that followed businesses found themselves
nationalized, and political and religious leaders imprisoned.
Stalin died in 1953, but his legacy didnt. The Warsaw Pact, a
military treaty between eight communist states, was signed
in 1955 the same year Stalins parting gift to the city the
Palace of Culture was completed. A year on Pozan exploded
like a powder keg in what turned out to be the first street
demonstrations against communism. The communists
reacted in time honoured fashion, with their fists, and the
final score stood at 76 dead (unofficial estimates suggest
far, far more) and a city defeated.
In a bid to appease the people several hardliners were
dismissed and Wadysaw Gomuka was appointed as Polands
premier. Limited social reforms and a small-scale lifting of
press censorship followed, and a political thaw set in. This
veneer of social happiness was shattered in 1970 when new
protests broke out, this time in Gdask. Forty four died when
the army suppressed the demonstrations, and for a while
things appeared to settle down. Edward Gierek came in to
replace Gomuka as First Secretary, and he set about turning
the country round. Living standards increased, and for a time
Gierek carried the tag of miracle worker. He wasnt. Gierek had
built a house of cards, propping up the Polish economy with
half-mad policies based on acquiring mountains of foreign
debt. The oil crisis of 1973 saw the creditors come calling and
by 1976 price increases were in the pipeline. A fresh batch of
riots broke out across the nation, and military might was once
more relied upon to bring the people to heel.
The public was starting to get restless, but their protests
needed focus and direction. That came in 1978 when Karol
Wojtya, born in Wadowice close to Krakw, was appointed
Pope in 1978. Wojtya, who had adopted the name John Paul
II, returned to Poland the following year, and his whirlwind tour
of the country is seen by many as the pivotal moment when
the nation gathered courage to defy the system. Do not be
afraid, spoke the pontiff to the masses, change the image
of the land this land. It was a veiled message, but a clear
one, and from there on the fuse was lit.
In the form of Pope John Paul II the Poles had found a spiritual
direction, what was lacking was a physical one. That came
in the surprising shape of Lech Wasa, an unemployed
electrician with an extravagant moustache and a podgy look.
Within the space of a second he went from no-one to someone
and bulldozed Polish politics into the 21
st
century. The year
was 1980 and workers in the Lenin Shipyards in Gdask were
fuming at the dismissal of a female crane operator. Talk and
promise of strike was rife, and the atmosphere heated. On the
spur of the moment Wasa climbed a gate and addressed
those below. Inadvertently he had made himself the public
face of Solidarno (Solidarity), a trade union that would
prove the slingshot that felled communism. This time round
the protestors had learned from their bloody mistakes and
rather than confronting the tanks simply locked themselves
in the shipyards. Leaders representing workers from across
the country joined, and hammered out a list of 21 demands
including the legalisation of trade unions. Days of tension
followed, with tanks and militia standing menacingly outside,
and for a moment Poland stood on a precipice.
Amazingly it was the government that backed down, on
August 31 it signed an agreement meeting the workers
demands. The first peaceful victory over communism had
been won.
This wasnt to last Solidarity continued to press for further
reform, and with the Soviet Union looking likely to invade the
Polish President General Jaruzelski declared Martial Law
on December 13, 1981. Though Solidarity was officially
dissolved, and its leaders imprisoned, it continued to operate
underground. When Father Jerzy Popieluszko, Solidaritys
chaplain, was abducted and murdered by the secret police
over a million people attended his funeral.
Renewed labour strikes and a faltering economy forced
Jaruzelski into initiating talks with opposition figures in 1988,
and the following year Solidarity was once again granted
legal status. Soviet leader Gorbachev had made it clear he
wouldnt intervene in Polish politics, and when Jaruzelski was
pressured into holding partly free elections Solidarity swept
the board with Wasa leading from the front. The regime
collapsed and in 1990 Wasa was elected the first president
of post-communist Poland. Shock capitalist tactics were used
to rotate Poland into a free market economy, and while this
left several losers the nation emerged stronger than before.
Acceptance into the European Union in 2004 was proof of
this, and Polands rise illustrated by the decision to award it
co-responsibility for the Euro 2012 Football Championships.
Today Poland, with Warsaw as its figurehead, stands as
an exemplary member of the EU, and notably was the one
European nation to avoid recession in the recent global crisis.
1313: First written mention of Warsaw
1413: The regional capital of Mazovia is moved from
Czersk to Warsaw
1596: King Zygmunt III Vasa moves the Royal Court from
Krakw to Warsaw
1665-1668: The old town comes repeatedly under
siege, only just about surviving
1700: The Swedes invade Poland, capturing Warsaw
two years later and installing Stanisaw Leszczyski as
a puppet king in 1704.
1764: Stanisaw August Poniatowski is crowned King
1772: Poland is partitioned for the first time
1791: The historic May 3 Constitution is signed, inadvertently
prompting the second partition of Poland two years later
1795: Third Partition of Poland
1807: A semi-independent Duchy of Warsaw is created
by Napoleon. Its dissolved eight years later following
Frances military disasters and Warsaw falls once more
under Russian control.
1830: The November Uprising breaks out
1863: One more anti-Russian rising breaks out, this one
know as the January Uprising
1915: The Russians leave Warsaw in disarray but are
immediately replaced with Germans. Independence
takes another three years
1920: The Red Army is defeated at the gates of Warsaw,
saving post-war Europe from communism
1939: Nazi Germany invades Poland.
1943: Jews remaining in the Ghetto rise against the
Nazis. Their insurgency is crushed
1944: The peopl e of Warsaw launch the Warsaw
Uprising, but are defeated following 63 days of resistance
1945: The Red Army liberates Warsaw but Poland is
forced to kowtow to Moscow for the next few decades
1989: The communist regime crumbles
2004: Poland enters the European Union
2010: Poland is plunged into national mourning after a
plane carrying President Lech Kaczyski and all on board
crashed while on its way to a memorial service in Katy.
Warsaws Historical Timeline
78
79
WHAT TO SEE
ESSENTIAL WARSAW
Sightseeing and Warsaw
dont usually go together,
and the blame for that falls
on her citizens. While some
cities may have been happy
to wait out Nazi occupa-
tion, the Warsaw locals
were having none of that.
The ensuing uprising which
took place in 1944 would
become both the most glo-
rious and tragic episode in
the citys history. Doomed
from the outset the Warsaw
Uprising enraged Hitler, and
his retribution proved swift
and brutal. Warsaw was to
be wiped from the face of the map, and his cronies set about
their orders with a zealous fury. While Red Army tanks stood
stoically stationed across the river the Nazis set about blasting
western Warsaw from the map. Anything deemed of cultural
importance was dynamited, and whole districts were set on
fire. By the time liberation arrived, over 90% of the city lay in
total ruin. I have seen many towns destroyed, but nowhere
have I been faced with such destruction, commented a visibly
moved Eisenhower on a later visit to the city. That the city still
stands at all is tribute enough to the indefatigable spirit of the
Polish capital.
Nowhere bore the brunt of the Nazi malice more than the Old
Town, and its here that most tourists will choose to start
their tour of Warsaw. Using paintings and photographs as an
architectural blueprint the Old Town was painstakingly rebuilt,
the reconstruction of the historic centre only completed as late
as 1962. The areas inclusion on the UNESCO World Heritage
List speaks volumes for the effort involved, and nothing is more
striking than the colourful, wonky-looking burgher houses that
frame the Old Town Square (B1/2, Rynek Starego Miasto).
The historic centre is also home to numerous churches, in-
cluding the striking St Johns Cathedral (B-2, ul. wietojaska
8) whose details number the gothic artworks of Wit Stwosz
as well as the tombs of knights, regents and eminent citizens.
Marking the edge of old town is the Royal Castle (B-2, pl.
Zamkowy 4), reconstructed from a pile of rubble at incred-
ible cost between 1971 and 1984. The prescribed tour will
take you through the Kings apartments and chambers,
heavily adorned with paintings of famous Polish moments.
Although youll find plenty of photographic opportunities in
and amongst the tight cobbled alleyways save a few shots for
the viewing platform at the top of St Annes Church (B-2, ul.
Krakowskie Przedmieie), and dont leave the area without
first exploring the lesser known delights of the New Town.
There is far more to Warsaw than i ts ol d town however,
and one museum that demands to be vi si ted i s the
Warsaw Uprising Museum (D-3, ul. Przyokopowa 28). I ts
here, inside Polands best museum, that youll learn about
the ci tys doomed rebellion against the Nazis in 1944.
Packed wi th i nteracti ve di spl ays, photographs, vi deo
footage and miscellaneous exhibi ts this is guaranteed to
l eave a deep mark on all visi tors, and will go a l ong way
in explaining why Warsaw is far from the archi tectural
pearl i t once was.
Al though the Nazis flat-
tened the Jewish Ghetto
af ter a heroi c upri si ng
i n 1943 there are sti l l
traces of Warsaws Jewish
past, including a remain-
ing piece of the Ghetto
wall (E-3, ul. Sienna 55),
a memori al where the
loading ramp to Treblinka
once stood ( E-1, Um-
schl agpl atz) as wel l as
one of the largest Jewish
cemeteries in Europe (D-1,
ul. Okopowa 49/51). Most
recently, a trail marking the Ghetto boundaries has been
unveiled, its course interspersed with 21 dual-language
plaques at sights of specific interest.
The citys defining landmark however has to be the fearsome
Palace of Culture and Science (B-4, pl. Defilad 1). Looking
like something youd see in Ghostbusters the building tow-
ers at just over 231 metres in height - making it the tallest
and largest structure in Poland. Commissioned by Stalin as
a gift from the Soviet people, it was completed in 1955,
and built using an estimated 40 million bricks the crowning
glory is the viewing platform on the 30th floor. While its
the most obvious, its not the only example of the Socialist
Realist style, and visitors have plenty to marvel at from the
everyman residential units of Muranow and pl. Konsytucji,
to the stern looking block that once housed Communist HQ
(ul. Nowy Swiat 6).
Across the river the Praga suburb is undergoing a long due
revival, and its growing reputation as an artistic haven is
evident in the cafes that have sprung up along the pre-war
Zabkowska street. But while the Praga area is breathing
once more, it still looks shabby. For a glimpse of Warsaws
Imperial beauty head instead to her palaces, in particular
azienki Park and Palace (G-4, ul. Agrykola 1) and Wilanw
Palace - dubbed The Polish Versailles - (ul. Stanisawa
Kostki-Potockiego 10/16). Joanna Kortas
Paul Kowalow wikipedia.pl
Churches
Many Poles still see a direct connection between the church
and patriotism, explained much by the fact that during cen-
turies of oppression by neighbouring powers, the church
helped the nation of Poland to survive by giving Poles an
identity. Although on the wane in post-communist Poland,
the church still plays an important role in many peoples
lives and churches reflect the importance of religion in the
history of the Polish nation.
Holy Cross Church (Koci w. Krzya) C-3, ul.
Krakowskie Przedmiecie 3, tel. (+48) 22 826 89 10,
www.swkrzyz.pl. No Chopinologist can leave Warsaw with-
out first visiting the final resting place of his heart. Added to
the church in 1882 his heart was sealed in an urn and then
placed behind a tablet bearing his likeness specially carved
by Leonardo Marconi.
Al though this serves as the churchs key draw theres
several other features of note to tempt the visi tor insi de
this astonishing Baroque creation. The churchs history
ori gi nal l y dates from the 15th century when a smal l
wooden chapel stood on the si te. Destroyed during the
Swedish Deluge of the 1650s, the church was rebuil t in
1682, wi th the cornerstone being ceremoniousl y lai d by
Prince Jakub, son of King Jan III Sobi eski. Desi gned by
the royal archi tect, Jakub Bell otti, i t was compl eted in
1696 though over time woul d see numerous addi tions
to i ts shape. The most notabl e of these woul d come in
the fol l owi ng century when Jzef Fontana added two
Baroque crowns to the square-cut twin towers. His son
Jakub woul d later extensi vel y refurbish the faade wi th
Jan Jerzy Pl ersch adding elaborate decorati ve touches
to the interior.
Throughout history the church has played its role in Warsaws
glories and calamities. It was here that the last Polish King
forged the Order of the Knights of St Stanislaus, and it was
directly outside in 1861 that Russian troops brutally sup-
pressed a patriotic protest. It was this bloodbath that lit the
touchpaper for the January Uprising of that year. Devastated
during the Warsaw Uprising in 1944 the church was painstak-
ingly rebuilt at the end of the war and is today a feast for the
heart, eyes and soul. The organ (built in Salzburg in 1925) is
the largest in Warsaw, and other points of note include an
urn with the remains of Nobel Prize winning author Wadysaw
Reymont, and tablets honouring various Polish icons includ-
ing poet Juliusz Sowacki and WWII hero Wadysaw Sikorski.
QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 14:00 - 16:00. No visiting during
mass please.
Jesui t Church (Koci Jezui tw) B- 2, ul .
witojaska 10, tel. (+48) 22 831 16 75, www.
laskawa.pl. Built at the behest of King Zygmunt III Wazas
confessor, Piotr Skarga, this lovely little Renaissance church
was constructed between 1609 and 1626 for the citys
Jesuit community. Having had something of a varied and
colourful history to say the least, it suffered at the hands
of the Swedes in the latter hal f of the 17th century, who
looted it of its entire contents, and it even spent time as a
storehouse during the Partitions. Also known as the Holy
Mother of Grace Church after the citys patron saint, the
church was returned to the Jesuits at the end of WWI only
to be destroyed by the Germans in 1944. Rebuilt between
1948 and 1957, the church has a few remaining original
interior parts - of particular interest is the 17th-century
picture of the Holy Mother herself. The crypt, not open to
visitors, contains the remains of Prince Karol Ferdynand
Waza and Maciej Kazimierz Sarbiewski (1595-1640), the
Jesuit priest, poet and court preacher to King Wadysaw
IV. QOpen 09:30 - 19:00. No visiting during mass please.
Adventure Warsaw ul. Miska 25 (Praga Poudnie),
tel. (+48) 606 22 55 25, www.adventurewarsaw.
com. Tours of Warsaw including the popular off the
beaten path tour which delves into Socialism, commu-
nism and of course vodka, all while cruising in a vintage
Nysa 522. Group, private and walking tours also available
from this crew of young, enthusiastic local guides.
City Sightseeing Warsaw, tel. (+48) 793 97 33
56, www.city-sightseeing.pl. If Warsaw needed proof
that it has finally arrived as a tourist destination surely the
launch of City Sightseeing is it. Tours by way of a familiar
red, double-decker bus let you take in sights such as the
Palace of Culture, the Royal Castle, azienki Park and the
Wybrzee Gdaskie. Buy one ticket and hop on and off
the bus as you please. See their website for tour details,
routes and timetables. Q Tickets 24hr 60z, 48hr 80z.
Eastern Station Warsaw, tel. (+48) 513 60 55
18, www.easternstation.eu. Warsaws first bike tour
company gets it right with six different 3 hour unique
routes that take visitors to places that promise great
photo opportunities and streets that stray from the
usual Old Town tourist traps. The Wild Vistula trip gets
you up close to the river that splits the city while the Cold
War HQ trip will have you climbing through a three story
underground Atomic Command Headquarters. Trips are
by request only. Those who prefer a walking tour can
meet at King Sigismunds Column daily at 11:00 for a
2-hour wander through Old Town (free, but be sure to tip).
Segway City Tours, tel. (+48) 600 31 03 20,
www.segwaycitytours.pl. Consider it the next gen-
eration of Warsaw tours: visitors are propelled 10km
around town on Segway Personal Transporters (helmets
provided!) and shown a vast swath of the city in around
3 hours. Tours depart daily Pl. Zamkowy and cost 349zl
per person and require booking in advance.
The Connoisseur Tour, tel. (+48) 600 97 26
28, www.monopolpraski.pl. If you consider Warsaw
synonymous with vodka, this is the tour for you. Meet
at Sigismunds Column for a chance to learn about
where this nectar comes from and how its made. The
tour includes sightseeing in Old Town, Praga and at the
former Koneser vodka factory as well as samples of
Polish vodka and appetisers. The tour lasts around 3.5
hours and can be organised in German, Italian, Russian
or English at a cost of 140zl per person. Adults only.
Warsaw City-Tour, tel. (+48) 500 03 34 14, www.
city-tour.com.pl. Bus tours of Warsaw on a yellow
double-decker bus. The tours start from the bus stop on
ul. Krlewska. From September 1-15 tours run at 09:50,
11:50, 12:50, 13:50 and 15:50. From the 16th to the end
of the month they run at 09:50, 11:50, 13:50 and 15:50.
From October they run at 09:50, 11:50 and 13:50, while
November reduces to 09:50 and 11:50. The route takes
about 1.5 hours to cover and covers all the major sites
in the city including Old Town, Jewish Warsaw, WWII,
Palace of Culture and Lazienki Park. Q Single journey
ticket 40/34z. One day ticket 60/54 z. Two day ticket
80/72z. Family tickets (2 adults and 2 children) 205zl/
day, 274zl/2days; 130zl single journey; (2 adults and 3
children 254zl/day, 340zl 2 days; 160zl single journey).
One and two day tickets offer hop on/hop off option.
Tours
80
WHAT TO SEE
81
WHAT TO SEE
Military Cathedral (Katedra Polowa Wojska
Polskiego) B-2, ul. Duga 13/15, tel. (+48) 22 687
77 02, www.katedrapolowa.pl. Comprised of both the St.
Francis of Assisi Church and monastery and built between
1662 and 1663 by the Piarist friars, the extraordinary
Military Cathedral, also known as the Church of Our Lady
Queen of the Polish Crown, is the capitals main garrison
church. Having spent time as an Orthodox Church, prison,
orphanage and a depot for German soldiers during WWI the
church was reconstructed based on original 17th-century
drawings after independence in 1918 and became the seat
of the field bishop of the Polish Army. Again rebuilt after its
destruction during WWII, the church is now decorated with
a peculiar mix of religious and military artefacts, including a
number of large oil paintings depicting the most well known
of Polands battles and uprisings. Q No visiting during
mass please. Open by prior arrangement and for groups
only. Alternatively view the interior through the bars or get
in before the mass at 18:00.
St. Annes Church (Koci w. Anny) B-2, ul.
Krakowskie Przedmiecie 68, tel. (+48) 22 826 89
91, www.swanna.waw.pl. St Annes survived the war
with a few token scratches and a collapsed roof, but what
the Nazis failed to destroy was very nearly demolished by a
team of incompetent builders - by 1949 the whole church
threatened to come crashing to the ground. The thought-
less construction of the nearby Trasa W-Z tunnel had led to
several landslides, resulting in huge cracks appearing in the
floor of the church. It took a team of 400 people two weeks
of tireless work to stabilise the undersoil and shore up the
foundations. Intriguingly, this wasnt the first time St Annes
had survived vicious conflict to find disaster around the
corner. It escaped destruction during the war with Sweden
(1650-1655) only to be gutted by fire two years later, appar-
ently the victim of an arson attack. The classicist faade
dates from 1788 and is the design of the royal architect Piotr
Aigner. The interior holds even more classicist and rococo
details. The viewing tower is one of the best in Warsaw and
worth the 147-step climb.
One other point of interest concerns a simple wooden cross
you will see there. These two planks of wood became the
focus of a battle that threatened to divide the country in
the summer of 2010. To read the story behind that see our
piece on the presidential cross. Q Open 07:00 - 19:00, Sun
08:00 - 22:00. No visiting during mass.
St. Bennos Church (Koci w. Benona) B-1,
ul. Piesza 1, tel. (+48) 22 578 70 10, www.swbenon.
redemptorysci.eu. Bennos has a wacky history. King Sigis-
mund III was a devotee of St. Benno and invited peer priests
from Bavaria to Warsaw in the 17th century. Their main aim
was to support Germans living outside their home country.
Ironically, in 1944, the chapel was blown to smithereens by
you-know-who. Rebuilt by the Poles in 1958, it now has an
interesting interior dating from 1977. Q Open during mass
and by prior arrangement.
St. Casimirs Church (Koci Benedyktynek
- Sakramentek) B-1, Rynek Nowego Miasta 2, tel.
(+48) 22 831 49 62, www.sakramentki.opoka.org.pl.
Founded by Mary Sobieski, wife of King Jan III Sobieski, to
commemorate her husbands victory over the Turkish army
at the Gates of Vienna. The baroque-style church was de-
signed by Tylman van Gameren and was completed in 1692.
In 1944 it served as a Polish field hospital, and received
a direct hit from a German bomb, killing more than 1,000
civilians, priests, nuns and soldiers who were inside. Today
it has been fully restored and has a charred wooden cross
as tribute to those who died. Q Open by prior arrangement.
St. Francis Seraph Church (Koci stygmatw
w. Franciszka Serafickiego) B-1, ul. Zakroczymska
1, tel. (+48) 22 831 20 31, www.warszawa.francisz-
kanie.pl. Completed in 1733 this baroque masterpiece holds
the remains of St Vitalis; see the glass coffin for yourself by
visiting the chapel to your left. Many of the religious relics
found scattered around were donated by Pope Benedict XIV
in 1754, and this church is also entered in the history books as
holding the first free mass in Warsaw following the flight of the
Nazis. Q Open 06:00 - 20:00. No visiting during mass please.
St. John the Baptist Cathedral (Bazylika Archikat-
edralna w. Jana Chrzciciela) B-2, ul. wietojaska 8,
tel. (+48) 22 831 02 89, www.katedra.mkw.pl. Originally built
in the 14th century, St. Johns is steeped in history. The last king of
Poland, Stanisaw August Poniatowski, was crowned and eventu-
ally buried here, and in 1791 he also declared the Constitution of
May 3 inside the building. The crypt holds the bodies of Henryk
Sienkiewicz (writer), Gabriel Narutowicz (Polands first president)
and various Mazovian knights, but its currently off-limits due to
renovations. Other interesting details to look for include the covered
walkway that links the Cathedral with the Royal Castle. It was added
in 1620 as a security measure following a failed assassination
attempt on King Sigismund III. As with most major landmarks, it
was the scene of heavy fighting during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising
and was subsequently left in a heap of ruins before being rebuilt
in pseudo-gothic style. On the external wall by the main entrance
are fragments of a Goliath - a remote-controlled tank used by the
German army. A 17th century bell made by artisan Daniel Tym (who
also made the statue of King Sigismund III atop the famed column)
can now be found in the centre of ul. Kanonia (B-2). The bell itself
never rang at the cathedral, but it has developed its own legend:
touch the top of the bell and walk its circumference and your wish
will come true. Q Open 10:00-17:30, Sun 15:00-17:30. No visiting
during mass please.
St. Marys Church (Koci Nawiedzenia NMP) B-1,
ul. Przyrynek 2, tel. (+48) 22 831 24 73, www.przyrynek.
pl. Scan the horizon of the New Town and chances are youll
find your eyes settling on the Gothic shape of the Church of the
Visitation of St Mary. Built in the 15th century on the whim of a
Mazovian princess this brick beauty allegedly stands on the site
of an ancient pagan place of worship. Extensively remodelled
over the centuries it was rebuilt true to its original form after
WWII. Q Open half an hour before and during mass only.
Monuments
Adam Mickiewicz Monument (Pomnik Adama
Mickiewicza) B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 5.
Patriot, poet and the man who inspired Romanticism in Poland,
Mickiewicz stands out as Polands greatest literary figure - as
well as a figure of hope during a bleak age of Russian oppres-
sion. His involvement in politics saw him exiled east in 1824 by
the ruling Russians, before finally heading to western Europe in
1829. A bid to return to his homeland in 1830 was thwarted at
the border, and he never saw his native Poland again.
Much mystery surrounds his life; his role as a national cultural
icon meaning that much of the seamier side of his life has been
covered up, including his involvement in strange cults and al-
leged womanising. To this day, even his birthplace remains a hot
source of argument. Some say Nowogrdek (Lithuania), others
say the nearby Zaosie. A champion of freedom, he died during
a cholera outbreak in Turkey, 1855, while recruiting a Polish
legion to fight the Russians in the Crimea. Originally buried in
Paris, Mickiewiczs body now lies in Wawel Cathedral, Krakw.
His defining masterpiece, Pan Tadeusz, is a beautifully written
epic portraying Polish society in the 19th century. His statue
dominates ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie, and traces of bullet
holes dating from WWII are still visible on the monument.
Visits to Polands most prestigious street, Krakowskie
Przedmiecie, start by the Royal Castle, next to the
sabre rattling statue of King Sigismund. A popular
meeti ng poi nt wi th l overs and buskers al i ke wed
suggest you start your tour by taking the Socialist
Realist era escalator. From there head to St Annes a
neo-classical effort that survived the war but came
wi thi n a whisker of coll apse when work began on
the W-Z tunnel running beneath it. The 1949 tunnel
project caused several landslides and it took a team
of 400 workers two weeks to shore the foundations
and stabilise the soil. But the real hero of the hour
was Romauld Cebertowicz, a professor who invented
a way of solidi fying the soil by way of directing elec-
tric currents into it. The interiors of St Annes house
numerous intricate details, but the real reason for
visiting is the taras widokowy, a viewing platform on
top of the next door tower.
Next, make a beeline for the Mickiewicz monument
that honours Polands best loved bard. This statue was
erected in 1898, the centenary of his birth. Unveiled
at a ti me of I mperial Russian repressi on the very
creation of his likeness was regarded as something of
a bombshell, and over 12,000 patriotic Poles turned
up to cheer the ribbon cutting. Standing just behind
is one of the Warsaws biggest mysteries. Everyone
knows the pi nk buil di ng wi th that great bi g chunk
missing from its facade, but what the devil is it? Built
in 1784 to serve as a travellers inn this mysterious
structure is actually student digs, as well as home
to a branch of the WBK bank and a music shop. The
17th century Camelite Church next door is one of the
original examples of the classicist style to be found
in Poland, and comes topped off with a sea green orb
representing the world.
Next up its the Presidential Palace, that fenced-off
building guarded by stone lions and stern soldiers.
Construction on it started in 1643 at the behest of
Stanislaw Koniecpolski, though was only completed
after his death. It passed into the hands various aris-
tocratic families and in the 18th century became the
famed venue for lavish society banquets. None were
more celebrated than the party held to celebrate the
coronation of Stanislaw II August Poniatowski in 1789;
over two million zloty was spent on entertaining 4,000
guests, a sum which must have been unheard of in
those days. But it was money well spent; Poniatowski
would prove to be one of Polands finest monarchs, and
the constitution of May 3, 1791, signed on these very
grounds, is recognized as Europes first.
When Pol and regai ned i ndependence i n 1918 the
reconstructed building was commandeered to serve
as home to the Pri me Mi nister and his Council of
Ministers. When Herman Goering visited in 1937 he
spent so much time pottering around admiring the
architectural details he was late for his meeting with
the Polish Foreign Minister. It saw more momentous
events in 1955, this time when the Warsaw pact the
Soviet Unions answer to NATO was rati fied within
its walls. In 1989 round table talks between the com-
munists and opposition were held here, paving the way
for political freedom, and in 1994 it was appointed as
the official home of the Polish president.
Krakowskie Przedmiecie...
Next door its the Le Meridien Bristol Hotel, long re-
garded as one of Warsaws most exclusive hotels. Tread
through the marble lobby and youll learn why; etched
in brass by reception youll find the names of dozens
of celebrities whove stayed here, including Picasso,
Nixon and Dietrich. An even more interesting story
can be found opposite, namely inside ul. Krakowskie
Przedmiecie 13. A superb bygone creation the Hotel
Europejski closed its doors in 2006 following nearly 130
years of service. Built on the site of a guesthouse called
the Gerlach the Europejski was funded by publisher
Aleksander Przezdziecki, and inspired by the designs he
had seen on his world travels. Touched up by architects
like Henryk Marconi it came to be known as Warsaws
first modern hotel. The hotel, which once greeted The
Rolling Stones, Robert Kennedy, Marlene Dietrich and
Indira Ghandi might have closed, but its current owners
have big plans. The lower floors are already occupied by
trendy spots like U Kucharzy, and theres plans afoot to
develop the upper floors into luxury apartments, offices
and a prestigious hotel. Heading back on yoursel f dont
miss a quick look in at ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie
15. Now home to the Ministry of Culture and Art this is
where Napoleon met his paramour Marie Walewska at
a ball held in his honour.
One thing that wont have escaped your notice at this
stage is the preponderance of young people, some of
them carrying books, others staggering out of bars. Yep,
youve guessed it, the university is here, its main campus
lying behind the grand gateway at number 26/28. Dating
from the 17th century the main building, known as Villa
Regia, was remodelled and renovated several times,
before finally being earmarked as the home of Warsaws
new university. Established in 1819 and opened for class
a couple of years later the uni had a tough time under
Russian rule. Closed in retaliation for the 1830 - 31 Up-
rising the university continued to operate underground,
though by 1859 the Tsar had been placated enough to
the extent he rubber stamped the creation of a School
of Medicine. Today, with some 57,000 students on the
roll call the university stands out as the largest in Poland,
as well as one of the best - a title hotly contested with
Krakws Jagiellonian Uni. Notable alumni include former
Israeli premier Yitzhak Shamir, writer Witold Gombrowicz,
award-winning hack Ryszard Kapusciski, the late presi-
dent Lech Kaczyski and poet Julian Tuwim.
Having failed in your attempt to get a few phone numbers
from the student body cross the street making a line for
the Church of the Holy Cross. Much has been written
about this place, so we wont add anything other than
make sure you put it on your list of unmissables. Finally,
at the end of KP, its Copernicus himself and his statue
has also played its part in Warsaws recent history.
...Krakowskie Przedmiecie
Urbanlegend
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WHAT TO SEE
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WHAT TO SEE
Charles de Gaulle Monu-
ment (Pomnik Charlesa
de Gaullea) C-4, Rondo de
Gaullea. Charles de Gaulle is
the subject of one of Warsaws
newer monuments. Stri ding
away from what was once the
Commie party HQ, the monu-
ment is a gift from the French
government and can be found
on (C-4) Rondo de Gaull ea.
A resident of Warsaw in the
1920s, de Gaulle is a bit of a
hero in these parts for the role
he played in The Battle of Warsaw in 1920. With Europe in
turmoil following the aftermath of WWI the Red Army launched
a huge military strike, aimed at enslaving the rest of Europe.
The Bolsheviks expected an easy march to Paris, but the
Poles has other ideas. With the Red Army just 23km from
Warsaw Marshal Pisudski launched a deft action to split the
Bolshevik forces in two and encircle them. The battle raged
from August 13-August 25, 1920, with the Poles claiming a
historic victory in what Woodrow Wilson went on to describe
as the seventh most important battle in history. The Bol-
shevik forces were decimated, and Europe saved. De Gaulle
fought with distinction and was awarded the highest military
honour in the country, the Virtuti Militari.
Cr oss- monument Pl .
Pisudskiego. Nine metres
high and made of white gran-
i te June 6, 2009 saw the
unveiling of giant cross on pl.
Pisudskiego. It was here that
Pope John Paul II returned to
Warsaw for the first time after
being made pope, and it was
also on this spot a candlelit
vigil was held when news first
broke of his death. The inscrip-
tion is taken from his sermon
and reads: Let your spirit come
down and renew the face of earth, this earth. Unveiled by
Warsaw Mayor Hanna Gronkiewicz Waltz and Archbishop
Kazimierz Nycz, the towering monument was designed by
Jerzy Mierzwiaka, Marek Kuciski and Natalia Wilczak.
Ignacy Paderewski G- 4,
Park Ujazdowski. Born i n
Kurywka in 1860 Paderewski
is fondly remembered as a politi-
can, patriot and musician. Having
entered the Warsaw Conservato-
rium at the age of 12 he worked
as a piano tutor after graduation.
The death of his wife, just a year
after they married, spurred him
to commit his life to music and in
1887 he made his public debut
in Vienna. His talent was obvious
and his growing popularity saw
him storm both Europe and the
States, not just as a pianist, but
a masterful composer as well. He was based in Paris during WWI
and it was during this time he became actively involved in politics,
becoming spokesman for the Polish National Committee. With
the end of the war he sought a return to his homeland where,
having played a key role in the Wielkopolska Uprising (which saw
Pozna merged into the newly reformed Polish state), he was
elected Polands third ever prime minister. It was he who signed
for Polands part in the 1919 Treaty of Versailles, though his fall
from grace was just around the corner. Many thought he had
sold Poland short and in the face of growing public discontent he
resigned from office in December 1919. A short stint as Polands
representative in the League of Nations followed before he opted
to resume his musical career. Aside from being a skilled musician,
the mop haired Paderewski was also a popular public speaker,
known for his devastating wit. One anecdote recalls him being
introduced to a polo player with the words: You are both leaders
in your spheres, though the spheres are very different. Not one to
miss a beat Paderewski deadpanned Not so very different, you
are a dear soul who plays polo, and I am a poor Pole who plays
solo. During WWII he became an eminent figure in the London
based exiled Polish Parliament, though died in 1941 with the
country of his birth still under occupation.
Jan Kiliski Monument (Pomnik Jana Kiliskiego)
B-2, ul. Podwale. A huge monument honouring Jan Kiliski,
a Warsaw cobbler who became the unlikely hero of the 1794
Kociuszko Uprising. Despite being wounded twice, Kiliski and
his troop of peasants captured the Russian Ambassadors War-
saw residence; an action that ultimately led to his imprisonment
in St. Petersburg. Said to embody the Polish virtues of bravery
and patriotism, his statue was erected in 1936 and originally
located on pl. Krasiskich. In reprisal for an attack on the Co-
pernicus Monument, Nazi troops hid Kiliski inside the vaults
of the National Museum. Within days, boy scouts had daubed
the museum with the graffiti People of Warsaw! I am here, Jan
Kiliski. After the war the cobbler was returned to his rightful
place, before being finally relocated to ul. Podwale in 1959.
Jzef Pi sudski Monu-
ment (Pomni k Jzef a
Pi sudski ego) F- 2, Pl .
Pisudskiego. Casting a steely
gaze over the square named in
his honour is a gloomy looking
Field Marshal Pisudski, a man
many Poles hold responsible
for winning the country its in-
dependence in 1918. Regarded
as a political and military hero
this man did more than most to
free Poland from the shackles
of Russian control; his earl y
years saw him imprisoned in Siberia after being wrongfully
convicted of plotting to assassinate the Tsar, though his
finest hour undoubtedly came in 1920 when he beat off
the Bolshevik hordes at the gates of Warsaw, inadvertently
saving a battered post-war Europe from being flooded by the
rampant Soviets. Unveiled in 1995 this particular monumen
is the work of Tadeusz odziany, and Pisudski fans can view
another such monument to the man on ul. Belweder.
King Sigismunds Col-
umn (Kolumna Krla
Zygmunta) B-2, Pl. Zam-
kowy. Built in honour of the
man who made Warsaw
the capi tal of Poland, the
column was erected back
in 1664 and stands twenty
two metres high. During the
war the column collapsed
under bombardment and
the original now lies close
to the Royal Castle (and is
considered lucky to touch).
The fi gure of Si gi smund
survived and the new column was proudly re-erected in 1949.
Alina Zienowicz/
Wikipedia
Warszawa13/Wikipedia
If you hail from the decadent west then October 31st is
generally seen as a time to fit into a scary outfit before
getting trollied on punch and waking up next to some right
old witch. The tradition of Halloween is fast catching on in
Poland - and youll find numerous parties scheduled for
the usual expat haunts. Readers expecting a wild time
of costume parties and rollicking Halloween debauchery
may be shocked however to discover a rather sobering,
sombre scene during the evenings of November 1 and
2. Known nationally as All Saints Day (Dzie Wszystkich
witych) and All Souls Day (Dzie Zaduszny, or Dzie
Wszystkich Zmarych) respectively, these two days of
the calendar year are dedicated to prayer and paying
tribute to the deceased by visiting their graves. This is
one of Polands most important public holidays, and only
transport and emergency service staff are expected to
work - dont be surprised to find your favourite hostelry
bolted shut for the night. Whole families descend on
graveyards to lay wreaths and light candles for deceased
family members, and prayers said at the gravestone
are meant to help the souls of the dead. A Catholic
tradition across many Eastern European countries, the
Polish take it particularly seriously and even the graves
of the unknown or forgotten are cleaned up and littered
with candles. While you may not think lurking around a
cemetery in the dark is the best way to spend an evening,
its incredibly beautiful to see the cemeteries lit up by
candles all night long, so wrap up warm and go have a
look. While we could wax poetic about the unearthly glow
of the immense candlelight, the murmur of prayer and
psalms, the subtle smells of the incense, fresh flowers
and burning wax, the shades of ravens in the trees,
the wet grass and mists, and the surreal duality of the
supernaturally charged, yet tranquil atmosphere, wed
prefer you just experience it for yourself. Remember to
take a candle along with you.
To catch a glimpse of this holiday tradition visitors to
Warsaw have plenty of cemeteries to choose from (see
box on page 89) and dont forget to visit the various
monuments to Polish martyrdom such as the Warsaw
Uprising memorial on ul. Duga.
All Saints Day
While the name sounds like that of a soap opera charac-
ter or possibly a romance novel heroine, Polands Rosa
Luxemburg was not a fictional figure though her story as
a noted revolutionary socialist is just as dramatic. Born in
the southern city of Zamo (which was then controlled
by Russia) in 1871, Luxemburg was the fifth child born to a
Polish Jewish family that eventually moved to the capital of
Warsaw. There Luxemburg attended school and got her first
taste of political activity by becoming involved in the left-wing
Proletariat party, a short-lived socialist political party that
was essentially dissolved after most of its members were
executed or imprisoned around 1886. Luxemburg fled to
Switzerland in 1889 to escape persecution for her beliefs and
enrolled in Zurich University, where she met Leo Jogiches a
fellow student and the man who would be her romantic and
political partner for the rest of her life.
Together the duo founded the Social Democratic Party of
the Kingdom of Poland and created a newspaper, Sprawa
Robotnicza (The Workers Cause) to oppose the policies
of the Polish Socialist Party. Luxemburg maintained the
position that an independent Poland would only come about
through socialist revolution, a position she held from across
the border in Germany (by 1898 Luxemburg had married
Gustav Lubeck in order to gain German citizenship and
settled in Berlin). In Germany Luxemburg was an active
participant in the Social Democratic Party of Germany (SPD)
and accurately foresaw the upcoming war, condemning
Germanys militarization and writing analyses about Euro-
pean socio-economic issues as well as speaking publicly
to workers about solidarity in the event of war.
Despite Luxemburgs efforts to unite workers into a strike
against war, when the Balkans erupted in 1914 there was
no such strike, and the SPD itself voted to support financing
the war and refraining from strikes throughout its duration.
Not one to take things lying down, Luxemburg promptly
organised anti-war demonstrations and earned herself
a year in prison for inciting to disobedience against the
authorities law and order. Shortly thereafter Luxemburg
and likeminded friends, including Karl Liebknecht, founded
the Spartacus League which generated anti-war leaflets
and continued to encourage workers to strike against the
war. Those efforts landed Luxemburg back in prison once
again, this time for a 2.5 year stretch beginning in 1916.
Upon her release in November 1918 Luxemburg and
Liebknecht immediately regrouped the Spartacus League
and created the Red Flag newspaper to continue press-
ing their ideas which now included amnesty for political
prisoners and an end to capital punishment. The following
month saw the duo found the Communist Party of Ger-
many amidst the countrys post-war revolution, though
the revolutions second wave would prove deadly for both
Luxemburg and Liebknecht. While Luxemburg herself op-
posed the revolutions violent grab at power, the Red Flag
backed the rebels and both Luxemburg and Liebknecht
were seized, questioned and summarily executed as a
result. Luxemburgs corpse was thrown into the Landwehr
Canal, where it went undiscovered for four months.
Despite her untimely death Luxemburg left a vast legacy
of ideas and writings, with the term Luxemburgism even
used to describe a specific revolutionary theory within
Marxism that is based on her work. And while there are
currently no monuments or memorials to the revolution-
ary in Poland, Berlin sports a U-Bahn station named in
her honour (Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz) and a memorial in
the citys Tiergarten marking the spot where her body
was tossed in the canal.
Rosa Luxemburg
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WHAT TO SEE
85
WHAT TO SEE
Ni col aus Coper ni cus
Monument (Pomni k
Mikoaja Kopernika) C-3,
ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie.
The founder of modern as-
tronomy. A sheltered academic,
he made his observations a
century before the invention
of the telescope and without
help or guidance. His book De
Revolutionibus (1543) posited
that the earth rotated on its axis
once a day, travelled around the
sun once a year, and that mans
place in the cosmos was peripheral. This may seem obvious
today, but it was an utterly radical idea at the time.
Although astronomers who propagated his ideas were burnt at
the stake and the Catholic church placed De Revolutionibus
on its list of banned books (as late as 1835), there was no
turning back progress. The modern cosmological view - that our
galaxy is one of billions in a vast universe - is this mans legacy.
The statue itsel f was built in 1830 and has seen its fair
share of adventure. During WWII the Nazis placed a bronze
plaque insinuating that the great man was in fact - gasp - a
German. In 1942, a boy scout called Alek Dawidowski ducked
the guards and removed the plaque. Boiling with fury, the
Nazis removed the statue, hid it in Silesia and dynamited a
few other surrounding monuments for good measure. The
statue was recovered in the years following the war, while
Dawidowski has entered Polish folklore as a result of his
bravery. The plaque at the centre of the storm is currently
held in Warsaws History Museum.
Nike B-2, near Pl. Zamkowy (Trasa W-Z scarp). Just before
hitting the WZ tunnel that rumbles below the old town visitors
cant fail but see a giant cast iron statue of Nike: as in the Greek
Goddess of Victory, not the shoe. Standing with sword raised
aloft this noble structure is actually officially named Monument
to the Heroes of Warsaw 1939-1945, and remembers the
thousands of locals who fought against - and died under - Nazi
rule. The statue made its debut in 1964, originally standing on
pl. Teatralny. This was before there was any official memorial
to the Warsaw Uprising, and as such Nike became the favoured
assembly point for Polish veterans, as well as student agitators
in later years. In 1999 Pl. Teatralny underwent a well-deserved
facelift and the fearsome Nike found herself forklifted over to
her current spot where she stands with a watchful eye over the
cars and buses that gasp to-and-fro.
Syrena. The mermaid is the
symbol of Warsaw, and as
such youll find her likeness on
everything from buses to beer
cans. The legend dates to the
time of Prince Kazimierz, who
allegedly got lost while on a
hunting expedition in the area
that is now Warsaw. Behold, a
mermaid transpired from the
marshland, and gui ded the
hapless prince to safety by
firing burning arrows. Firmly
established as an icon of Warsaw youll find three mermaid
statues in Warsaw, specifically on (C-1), Old Town Square,
(D-2), witokrzyski Bridge and on (C-2/3), ul. Karowa. The
original mermaid - or syrena in local parlance - stands in
the Historical Museum, and was crafted from bronze by the
expert hand of Ludwika Nitschowa. Modelling for her was
actress Krystyna Krahelska, who was mortally injured on
the first day of the Uprising while working as a field nurse.
Tomb of the Unknown
Soldier (Grb Niezna-
nego onierza) B-3, Pl.
Pisudskiego. The only surviv-
ing part of the destroyed Saxon
Palace. The palace was con-
structed during the 17th century
though the tomb was not added
to the complex until 1925. Eerily,
the tomb was the only part of
the structure to survive being
dynamited by the Nazis. The
ashes of unknown soldiers from WWII have been fittingly added.
To those deported and murdered in the East (Pom-
nik Polegym i Pomordowanym na Wschodzie)
E-1, intersection of Bonifraterska, Andersa and Mura-
nowska. Dating from 1995, and designed by Maksymilian
Biskupski, this monument remembers the victims of Soviet
aggression and all those deported to the wastes of Siberia.
Museums
Warsaw now has an ever more impressive selection of muse-
ums dotted around and even older ones are getting facelifts to
bring the visitor experience into the 21st century. There are still
instances of poor or no English language explanations but these
are becoming less common. Without doubt the big three places
on your list should be the Uprising Museum which charts the
defining period in the history of modern Warsaw; the Copernicus
Science Centre which is the citys most interactive and visitor
friendly museum and the Chopin Museum which is both interest-
ing and Warsaws best example of a modern museum experience.
Most museums listed present a cycle of temporary exhibitions,
details of which can be found in our culture and events section.
Adam Mickiewicz Museum of Literature (Muzeum
Literatury im. Adama Mickiewicza) B-1, Rynek
Starego Miasta 20, tel. (+48) 22 831 76 91, www.
muzeumliteratury.pl. Find out about the smart Alec who
inspired Romanticism in Poland. As well as aving a number of
manuscripts and historical artefacts connected with Mickiewicz,
the museum also has exhibits connected with other leading
Polish writers. Q Open 10:00 - 16:00, Wed 11:00 - 18:00, Thu
13:00 - 21:00 (with the permanent exhibit only open until 18:00),
Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat and every last Sun of the month.
Admission 6/5z, Sun free for permanent exhibit only. Y
Gallery of Paintings, Sculpture and the Decorative
Arts (Galeria Malarstwa, Rzeby i Sztuki Zdobniczej)
B-2, Pl. Zamkowy 4 (Royal Castle), tel. (+48) 22 355 51
70, www.zamek-krolewski.pl. The east wing of the Royal
Castles main floor is now home to a permanent exhibition of vari-
ous works of art that had formerly been spread throughout the
property, including two works by Rembrandt: The Girl in a Picture
Frame and The Scholar at the Lectern. Both paintings were part
of a major donation of 37 works of art given by Countess Karolina
Lanckoronska, a Polish resistance fighter and concentration camp
survivor who, upon Polands return to independence in 1989,
bequeathed her familys art collection to the nation. The Castle
has done an impressive job of staging the artworks, with muted
walls and focused lighting keeping all the attention on the various
portraits of 16th and 17th century royalty like Marie Antoinette
and still life paintings of flower-filled bounties. Theres also a room
devoted to porcelain, tapestries and glassware from the era. The
Castles free admission on Sundays have seen the new gallery
overrun with visitors, so serious art lovers will want to pay for the
chance to wander at a less harried pace. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00,
Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before
closing. Admission 20/15z, family ticket 10z per person. Sun free.
Tadeusz Kociuszko Monument A/B-3, Pl. Za
elazn Bram. History produces few men like Tadeusz
Kociuszko (1746-1817). Kociuszkos highest ideal was
freedom, and he used his own to try and secure it for all
those less fortunate. In one country - Poland - he failed and
is remembered as the greatest hero who ever walked the
land. In another country - America - he succeeded, and yet
has been almost completely forgotten. A monument to the
man was unveiled in November 2010 in the presence of
the Polish President and the US Ambassador. The monu-
ment is an exact copy of one in Washington by sculptor
Antoni Popiel given to Americans on behalf of the Polish
nation. At its unveiling outside of the White House in 1910
the promise was made to erect a copy in Poland if ever
the country regained its independence.
The man himself was educated in Warsaw and Paris dur-
ing which time Poland was partitioned for the first time in
1772. Kociuszko found himself attracted to the American
fight for independence and arrived in Philadelphia aged 30.
Upon arrival he read the Declaration of Independence and
found himself so inspired and in concert with its ideology
that he determined to meet the man who wrote it, Thomas
Jefferson. The two men later began a lifelong friendship
which became so binding that Kociuszko made Jefferson
the executor of his will. Jefferson was to call Kociuszko
the purest son of liberty among you all that I have ever
known, and of that liberty which is to go to all, not to the
few or the rich alone.
It was as a colonel in the engineering corps that Kociuszko
distinguished himself and it was his choice of Bemis Heights
as the place to engage the British that was to become the
decisive turning point of the northern campaign - the Battle
of Saratoga in October 1777. The victory at Saratoga won
the northern campaign and the alliance of the French as
Louis XVI officially recognised America as an independent
country. Kosciuszko was then charged with forti fying
West Point, New York, where he built an impenetrable
fortress that would later become Americas premier military
academy. Rewarded with citizenship, the rank of Brigadier
General and land near Columbus, Ohio, at the end of
hostilities, Kociuszko found himself instead drawn back
to Poland whose aggressive neighbours continued to
threaten its sovereignty.
Having first freed the serfs on his own estate back in
Poland, Kociuszko once again returned to the military.
On May 3, 1791 the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth
created the first constitution in modern Europe (second
in the world after America), which enacted widespread
reforms and four days later the Russian army crossed
the border triggering the Polish-Russian War of 1792.
Kociuszko again distinguished himsel f in battle and
became regarded as Polands leading military strategist
having never been defeated. However the neighbouring
powers further reduced the power and size of Poland
through the Second Partition of Poland (January 21,
1793) leaving Kociuszko to resolve that the Poles were
going to have to drive their oppressors out and to regain
their independence.
What followed came to be known as the Kociuszko Up-
rising. Kociuszko, using his experience of the American
war of Independence, led his ill-equipped peasant army
to victory over the Russian army at Racawice. The
ultimate defeat of Poland resulted in the Third Partition
of Poland (October 24th, 1795) and Poland disappeared
from the map of Europe for the next 123 years. Read
more about the man in our feature online.
Kociuszko Monument
The wonder full y named
Stanisaw II August Pon-
i atowski ( bor n Count
Stanisaw Antoni Poni -
atowski ) was the l ast
Ki ng and Grand Duke
of t he Pol i sh- Li t hua-
ni an Commonweal t h
(1764-95). Hi s of fi ci al
ti tl e was, memorabl y,
Stanisaw August, by
the grace of God and
the will of the people
King of Poland, Grand
Duke of Lithuania and
Duke of Rutheni a,
Prussia, Masovia, Samogitia, Kiev, Volhynia,
Podolia, Podlasie, Livonia, Smolensk, Severia
and Chernihiv.
Born in Wolcyn (which today is in Belarus) in 1732,
Poniatowski first rose to prominence as an orator in the
nascent Polish parliament, the Sejm. Appointed ambas-
sador of Saxony to the court of Catherine the Great in
St. Petersburg in 1755, the tall, dashing Poniatowski
quickly became a regular lover of the insatiable Russian
Empress. When the Polish King August II died in 1763, it
was with Russian support that Poniatowski was elected
king, at the age of 32.
Opposed from the start by large numbers of the Pol-
ish nobility, on first appearances Poniatowskis three
decades on the throne do not look all that impressive.
He was powerless to prevent the first partition of the
Commonwealth in 1772 and relied heavily for much of
his reign on Russian patronage.
Yet he is remembered most for his championing of the
1791 Polish-Lithuanian Constitution: Europes first and
the worlds second (the United States had enacted the
first, in 1788) codified constitution. It greatly reduced the
power of the nobility, and introduced the idea of equality
amongst all citizens of the Commonwealth: noblemen,
townsfolk and peasants. Alas, the Commonwealth was
about to crumble, and the constitution came far too
late to save it.
Appall ed, the Polish nobili ty, under the flag of the
Targowi ca Federation and allied wi th Russian nobl es
keen to prevent similar i deas of equali ty infil trating
into Russia, launched a full scal e war (known, some-
what incorrectly, as the Polish-Russian War of 1791-2)
on Poniatowski. Betrayed by Prussia (whi ch had until
then been a keen all y), Poniatowski was defeated in
1792 and the consti tution expunged from the statue
book. The status quo ante-bellum was restored, and
Poniatowski managed to cling on as King until 1795
when the final parti tion of the Commonweal th forced
hi m to abdi cate. He fl ed to St. Petersburg, where
he li ved at the grace of Catheri ne until he di ed i n
1798. He was first buri ed at the Catholi c Church of
St. Catherine in St. Petersburg, his remains being
transferred to a church at Woczyn in 1938. In 1995,
in belated recogni tion of his rol e in creating the 1791
consti tution, he was formall y reburi ed at St. Johns
Cathedral in Warsaw.
Stanislaw Poniatowski
86
WHAT TO SEE
87
WHAT TO SEE
Historical Museum of Warsaw (Muzeum His-
toryczne Miasta Warszawy) B-1, Rynek Starego
Miasta 28- 42, tel. (+48) 22 635 16 25, www.mhw.pl.
One of our favourite museums, The Historical Museum of
Warsaw has been offline for several issues now but is eas-
ing into a return after months of renovations. What can you
see so far? Just the main floor, which houses an excellent
permanent exhibition about the history of Warsaw through
the 17th century and plenty of archaeological materials
to keep Indiana Jones enthused for hours. A temporary
exhibi tion is also open and is dedi cated to WWII hero
Janusz Korczak. One aspect not to be missed is the film
Warsaw Will Remember in the museums cinema. The
film addresses the war years from 1939-1945 and the
rebuilding of the city. The film is shown Tue-Fri at 10:00
and 12:00, Sat and Sun at 12:00 and 14:00, and lasts
20 minutes (in French, Italian German and Spanish by
request). Tickets are 10/5z, and the entrance for the film
is from Rynek Starego Miasta 40. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00,
Tue 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 5z.
Krlikarnia G-7, ul. Puawska 113a, tel. (+48) 22
843 15 86, www.krolikarnia.mnw.art.pl. Krlikarnia,
which translates as the rabbit house, is a lavish palace
in Mokotw named for its role as King Augustus II the
Strongs rabbit warren for hunting. Built between 1782
and 1786, the palace has been home to a number of
interesting residents including insurrection leader Tadeusz
Kociuszko and Charles Thomatis, a man many believe
acted as a pimp for King Stanisaw August Poniatowski.
Like much of Warsaw, the palace was obliterated during
the war but meticulously rebuilt in 1964 and now operates
as an art museum that features the works of famed Polish
sculptor and Auschwitz survivor Xawery Dunikowski on the
verdant park grounds (you can keep an eye out for The
Soul Escaping the Body, a sculpture that is replicated on
Dunikowskis tombstone). Visitors can end their museum
visi t wi th a meal courtesy of the caf whi ch prepares
picnics and offers blankets for outdoor dining, a must
considering its location on an escarpment overlooking
the Vistula. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admis-
sion 8/4z, Thu free.
Mu s e u m o f I n d e p e n d e n c e ( Mu z e u m
Niepodlegoci) B-2, Al. Solidarnoci 62, tel.
(+48) 22 826 90 91, www.muzeumniepodleglosci.
art.pl. Rather ironically, the museum that charts Polands
struggl e for freedom was home to the Lenin Museum
duri ng communi st rul e. Cel ebrati ng Polish patri otism,
the museum covers all the key dates of Polish history,
including the 1794 Kociuszko Uprising, the 19th century
insurrections, Pi sudskis return to Poland, WWII and the
ri se of Soli dari ty (though thi s l ast exhi bi t i s currentl y
unavai l abl e). Among the 48,000 exhi bi ts are obj ects
recovered from WWII concentration camps, and some
wonder ful displays of Socialist Realist artwork. QOpen
10:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Cl osed Mon.
Last entrance 30 mi nutes before cl osi ng. Admi ssi on
6/4z. Sun free. Y
Museum of John Paul II Collection (Muzeum
Kolekcji im. Jana Pawa II) A-2, Pl. Bankowy 1,
tel. (+48) 22 620 27 25, www.muzeummalarstwa.
pl. Thi s i s exactl y the ki nd of overl ooked museum that
houses gems touri sts wi l l consi der themsel ves l ucky
to stumbl e upon. I n 1986 Jani na and Zbi gni ew Carrol l -
Porczynski gi fted the country wi th 400 pai nti ngs and
scul ptures acqui red through years of dabbl i ng i n West-
ern European art. The Carrol l -Porczynski s themsel ves
are an i nteresti ng duo - she was sent to Si bera i n 1940,
then matri cul ated to Rhodesi a and Engl and where she
obtained several degrees whil e he was part of the Home
Army and sent to Powiak Prison, Auschwi tz and Buchen-
wal d before goi ng to Engl and and getti ng a PhD. Thei r
coll ecti on is now housed in the histori cal Bank of Poland
bui l di ng and i ncl udes a uni corn scul pture by Sal vador
Dal i, a pai nti ng of Renoi rs son Pi erre, an i dyl l i c farm
scene by Van Gogh, the head of John the Bapti st by Ro-
dinthe mind boggl es at the list of noted artists housed
here. The Banks soari ng rotunda i s home to over 80
sel f-portrai ts, and the first fl oor houses works of a more
rel i gi ous nature. One of the most stunni ng i s Woj ci ech
Gersons Bapti sm of Li thuani a, a massi ve pai nti ng that
represents Li thuani as bapti sm i nto Chri sti ani ty. A l ack
of surl y museum mai ds and a wel l -marked route make
the JPI I museum even more enj oyabl e. QOpen 10:00 -
16:00. Cl osed Mon. Admi ssi on 13/8z. Y
Museum of Pol i sh Peopl es Movement
(Muzeum Historii Polskiego Ruchu Ludowego)
Al. Wilanowska 204 (Mokotw), tel. (+48) 22 843
38 76, www.mhprl.pl. Set in a neo-Renaissance villa
desi gned by I tal i an-born Mar y Lanci the Museum of
the Polish Peopl es Movement is an absolute must for
museum di ehards - j ust try to fi nd any other English-
speaker whose been here (though recentl y the museum
has added some English brochures to help non-Polish
visitors). As the title suggests, everything here is focused
on Polish peopl e/peasants, wi th the ol dest exhi bi t be-
ing a 17th century manuscript approved by King Jan III
Sobi eski granting ser fs a tax reduction. Most of these
scrolls, documents and papers will be l ost on the forei gn
visi tor; making more sense are the printed materials,
whi ch include el ection posters from the interwar years,
as well as decrees, ration cards and purchase vouch-
ers suppli ed by the occupying Nazis during WWII. Times
under communism are particularl y well represented, and
visi tors will see a number of stirring Sovi et chi c posters
encouraging hard work and hi gh production. Very Social -
ist Paradise indeed.
Patriotism plays a large part in understanding this oddity,
and art fans will be pl eased to find a seri es of paintings
depi cti ng peasants i n ful l battl e, i ncl udi ng of course
Tadeusz Kociuszko doing his bi t against the Russki es.
Stamps, fl ags, medal s and cari catures, theyre al l
here, as well as a great li ttl e war-themed section whi ch
presents bayonets, armbands worn by peasant fi ghters
during WWII, first ai d ki ts and a typewri ter and printing
contrapti on used in the creati on of subversi ve press.
Q Open 08:30 - 15:30, Sat, Sun by prior arrangement.
Admission 2/1z. Thu free. Y
Presi denti al Pal ace C- 2, ul . Krakowski e
Przedmiecie 46/48. If pre-war Warsaw was considered
the Paris of the East then Krakowskie Przedmieie would
have been its Champs Elysees, its importance recognized
by the number of palaces, institutions, monuments and
churches that line it. Of those none are more important than
the Presidential Palace at number 46/48, that mysterious
fenced-off building guarded by stone lions and stern looking
soldiers. Construction on it started in 1643 at the behest of
Stanisaw Koniecpolski, though was only completed after
his death. It passed into the hands of various aristocratic
families and in the 18th century became famed for its ban-
quets - the most extravagant being held to commemorate
the coronation of Stanisaw II August Poniatowski in 1789;
over two million zoty was spent entertaining the 4,000
guests. Poniatowski was to prove one of the nations finest
monarchs and the Constitution of May 3, 1791, signed on
these very grounds, is recognized as Europes first - and
only the second in the world. A statue of Poniatowskis
brother, himself a military hero, was added to in 1965. Of its
residents none were more eccentric than General Zajczek,
a one legged Duke who was carried around in his armchair
by a team of simpering servants. His wife, an ageless look-
ing maiden, attributed her eternal youth to a strict diet that
banned any hot meals, and a rigorous set of guidelines that
included having pots of ice placed under her bed and freezing
cold baths. After 1818 it became the seat of the Viceroy of
the Polish Kingdom, and its halls entertained many a visiting
Tsar. In 1852 calamity struck and the palace was burned to
the ground. Reconstructed by Alfons Kropiwnicki the rebuilt
structure served as a home to the Agricultural Society, and
in 1879 Jan Matejkos epic painting The Battle of Grunwald
was put on display to an appreciative Warsaw public. Exten-
sively remodelled throughout the course of history one of its
biggest revamps came at the beginning of the 20th century
when one wing was demolished to make way for the Hotel
Bristol. When Poland regained its independence in 1918 it
was commandeered to serve as home of the Prime Minister
and his Council of Ministers. When Herman Goering visited
in 1937 he spent so much time pottering around admiring
the architectural details he was late for his appointment with
the Polish Foreign Minister. Amazingly it survived both the
1939 Siege of Warsaw and the Warsaw Uprising five years
later, though that did little to stop the authorities employing
Antoni Brusche and Antoni Jawornicki to give it a further
facelift. It saw more momentous events in 1955, this time
when the Warsaw Pact - the Soviet Unions answer to NATO
- was ratified within its walls. Since 1994 it has served as
the official home of the Polish president, which is exactly
why youll find streams of limos heading in and out, and
square jawed soldiers pointing their weapons at anyone who
strays too close. Interestingly enough, however, is the fact
that current president Bronisaw Komorowski does not live
there; instead he has chosen to reside at Belweder Palace
next to azienki Park.
Presidential Palace
Gestapo HQ (Mauzoleum Walki i Mczestwa)
G-4, Al. Szucha 25, tel. (+48) 22 629 49 19, www.
muzeumniepodleglosci.art.pl. Every bit as disturbing
as Pawiak is the former Gestapo HQ, found on Al. Szucha
25. Built between 1927 and 1930, the buildings original
purpose was to serve as a centre for religious beliefs.
In 1939 it came under control of the Nazi regime, and
for the next five years became one of the most feared
addresses in Poland operating, among other capacities,
as a brutal interrogation centre. The imposing building,
currently housing the Ministry of Education, was left
untouched by the carnage of war and now also holds a
small but sobering museum within its bowels. Cells, where
prisoners were held prior to interrogation, have been left
largely as they were. Known as trams, Poles would be
sat on wooden benches facing the wall as they awaited
their fate. Forbidden to eat or sleep, they were compelled
to sit motionless in darkness, sometimes for days on end.
Failure to do so would lead to almost certain death. The
bullet marks scarring the walls tell their own harrowing
story. Although the torture cells have long since been
blocked off, the English language tape that the curator
plays paints a vivid and repulsive picture. Prisoners were
subjected to savage beatings, attacked with dogs and
electrocuted. Those who didnt co-operate would, in some
cases, be forced to watch their own families being tortured.
The office where prisoners would have been checked in
also remains, complete with a faded portrait of Hitler and
battered issues of Wehrmacht magazine lying around.
Manacles, bullwhips and other sinister instruments can
also be seen stacked on the bookshelf. QOpen 10:00 -
16:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Last entrance
30 minutes before closing. Admission 6/4z, Sun free,
ticket also admits you to Pawiak Prison (ul. Dzielna 24/26).
Gestapo HQ
The Citadel (Cytadela) F-1, ul. Skazacw 25
(entrance from ul. Wybrzee Gdyskie), tel. (+48)
22 839 12 68, www.muzeum-niepodleglosci.pl/
xpawilon. First off a tip. The entrance to the Citadel is on
Wybrzee Gdyskie and is not that easy to find. Once you
get there you discover a complex built in the wake of the
1830 November Insurrection, and commissioned by Tsar
Nicholas I to serve as a fortress for the occupying Russian
garrison - and as a political prison and execution ground.
Housing as many as 16,000 troops, the main purpose of
the citadel was to deter and quash any patriotic movement
within the city. Of the 40,000 prisoners who have passed
through its gates, familiar names include national hero Jzef
Pisudski, communist agitator Red Rosa Luxembourg and
Feliks Dzieryski - the monster who would progress to be-
come head of the Russian secret police. As well as being a
supreme example of 19th century fortress architecture, the
36 hectare site has several points of interest. The labyrinth
of tunnels and prison cells have been well preserved and
contain numerous exhibits, including paintings, prison relics
and firearms. Outside find a Nazi bunker dating from 1940,
a symbolic cemetery, and The Gate of Execution. Its here
on the nearby southern hillsides of the Citadel that Polish
heroes like Traugutt were executed in front of a crowd
of 30,000 in 1864. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon,
Tue. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission
6/4z, Sun free.
The Citadel
88
WHAT TO SEE
89
WHAT TO SEE
Museum of Priest Jerzy Popieuszko (Muzeum
Bogosawionego Ks. Jerzego Popieuszki) ul.
Kardynaa Stanisawa Hozjusza 2 (oliborz), tel. (+48) 22
561 00 56, www.popieluszko.net.pl. Youd probably think a
museum honouring a priest doesnt sound like much fun, and
indeed this place really isnt. However, it is a very decent detour
if you happen to be in the oliborz area, and thats because
Father Jerzy was no ordinary priest. Popieuszko came to na-
tional attention in the early1980s for his fierce anti-communist
rhetoric, and with close ties to Radio Free Europe and Solidarity
it wasnt long till he ran afoul of the internal security services.
In 1984, with Poland in political chaos, they decided to get rid
of him altogether. A car accident was set up for this purpose,
though Popieuszko somehow survived unscathed. Six days
later he was abducted, beaten and murdered, his corpse
dumped in a reservoir. His funeral drew a crowd of 250,000
mourners and made headlines the world over. Today the
basement of his former parish church has been turned into a
museum to remember not just his life, but the whole struggle
for post-war freedom. Newssheets printed by the underground,
banners from the Solidarity strikes and pictures of the funeral
are among the many items on display, as are the clothes he
was wearing when he was kidnapped. Particularly poignant is
a curved wall, its bricks inscribed with the names of martyrs
dealt with by security services between 1981 and 1989.
QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon,
Tue. Admission free. Donations welcome.
Museum of Sports and Tourism (Muzeum Sportu
i Turystyki) ul. Wybrzee Gdyskie 4 (oliborz), tel.
(+48) 22 560 37 80, www.muzeumsportu.waw.pl. Not
long back museums in Poland were largely dusty affairs with
stupid hours and hawk-like curators ensuring fingers and
noses were kept well away from the glass. Well heres the
new face of sightseeing, a spanking new glass building that
could well have been sent down from space. Cynics might
say a seven floor Olympic Centre is largely wasted on the
Poles, a nation which hasnt exactly dominated the planet
in the field of sport. This place is here to prove the naysay-
ers wrong, with over 47,000 exhibits testifying to Polands
contribution to recreation.
The exhibition starts off with a passing glance at Ancient
Greece, with Greco busts and murals celebrating the early
pioneers of games, before moving off in a more patriotic
direction and leaning towards the more Polski side of things.
Included are old penny farthing bicycles as well as trophies
and memorabilia from the Warsaw Rowing Association, ap-
parently the oldest sports organization in town.
Split into various zones (inter-war years, 70s glory years, Salt
Lake City etc), this is more than just a thorough look at Polish
sport, its the final word. Film reels and sound effects comple-
ment often hilarious pictures (mustachioed supermen from
bygone times triumphantly lifting dumbbells). However this is no
circus sideshow, and it soon becomes clear that the Poles have
a proud and distinguished history across all fields, something
apparent in the Olympic Hall of Fame which features scores of
medals. Heroes such as ex Man City legend Kazimierz Deyna
and ski champ Adam Maysz are all celebrated, and the vast
collection even has room for a kayak once used by Pope John
Paul II to row around the Mazurian Lakes. QOpen 09:15 - 17:00,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes
before closing. Admission 10/6z. Sat free.
National Museum (Muzeum Narodowe) C-4, Al.
Jerozolimskie 3, tel. (+48) 22 621 10 31, www.mnw.art.
pl. Located inside a huge and decidedly bizarre inter-war build-
ing, Warsaws National Museum has thankfully just reopened
after a long renovation that has seen many changes includ-
ing the renovation of the museums main courtyard, a major
rearrangement of the permanent galleries and an impressive
upcoming schedule of temporary exhibits. Considering the
new overhaul this museum is a must for anyone visiting the
city. Dating from 1862 and operating under its current name
since 1916, theres a huge array of permanent exhibitions and
antiquities. Visitors will find a wealth of delightful 15th-century
Dutch and Flemish paintings in the Gallery of Old European
Paintings and several galleries of Polish art from the 16th cen-
tury onwards, including some of the best work by the countrys
leading names in art - Chemoski and Matejko to name a
few. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon.
Ticket prices: permanent exhibitions 15/10z, entire museum
20/15z. Family ticket: 40z permanent exhibits, 50z entire
museum. Tue free for permanent exhibition. Last tickets sold
45 minutes before closing. Y
Polish Army Museum (Muzeum Wojska Pol-
skiego) C-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 3, tel. (+48) 22 629
52 71, www.muzeumwp.pl. The chronological history of
the Polish army is presented in a series of gloomy rooms.
Suits of armour, crossbows, muskets, medals and paintings
pack this museum, though the scarcity of English-language
explanations mean youll need to hire an English-speaking
guide to get the most out of the place. The room at the end
is dedicated to Polands role in WWII, with specific empha-
sis on the Warsaw Uprising. Curiously, the best part of the
museum is actually free of charge: the outdoor collection of
20th century weaponry includes an array of tanks, missiles,
aircraft and rocket launchers. Note that visitors can see the
Transport Aircraft AN26 (or similar machines) for a 2zl fee.
QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Wed 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue.
Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 10/5z,
Sun free. Tours with audioguide 17/10z.
Ujazdowski Castle (Museum Of Modern Art/
CSW) (Centrum Sztuki Wspczesnej Zamek
Ujazdowski) G- 4, ul. Jazdw 2, tel. (+48) 22 628
64 08, www.csw.art.pl. Completed in a baroque style in
1730, Ujazdowski was gutted by fire during WWII. Though the
original walls and foundations remained structurally sound the
communist authorities decided to tear down the shell of the
building with the intention of building a military theatre on the
site. Common sense prevailed and the 1970s saw Ujazdowski
rebuilt following its original style. Used as a military hospital in
the years leading up to the war, it now has three large exhibition
halls dedicated to showcasing the very best of contemporary
art; find a wild mix of the good, the bad and the ugly, featuring
the work of Polands leading contemporary artists. Worthy
and undoubtedly necessary, the gallery also houses a very
good bookshop and a caf. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Fri 12:00
- 21:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.
Admission 12/6z, Thu free.
Places of interest
Fotoplastikon F-3, Al. Jerozolimskie 51, tel. (+48) 22
629 60 78, www.fotoplastikonwarszawski.pl. Now, you
may hear some people claiming this to be the only fotoplastikon
in Europe. This is clearly a lie - theres one across the road in
the Palace of Culture, for a start. Nonetheless, dont let that
stop your visit. Hidden away in a darkened pre-war tenement
a visit here really is a trip back in time. So what the devil is a
fotoplastikon? Invented in Germany in the second half of the
19th century theyre basically a 3D peep show (no, not the saucy
kind) set inside a great big drum-like contraption. Presenting
vivid images from across the world these groovy machines
became an absolute sensation and at any onetime there were
an estimated 250 in Europe. Warsaw apparently got its first in
1901, and the one on show here is thought to be from 1905.
Although fotoplastikons were made obsolete by improved
camera and film technology this one continued to open for
az i enki Par k
( a z i e n k i
Krlewskie) G- 4,
ul. Agrykoli 1, tel.
(+48) 22 506 01
01, www.lazienki -
krolewskie.pl. The
park and palace com-
pl ex where hal f of
Warsaw descends on a Sunday to take the traditional
family stroll. Notable features amid the landscaped
gardens include the art-deco Chopin monument (1926),
the Palace on the Island (remodelled in 1792), an old
orangery and a classicist amphitheatre loosely inspired
by Herculaneum. The 74 hectare site originally served
as the residence of Stanisaw August Poniatowski -
Polands last monarch. In spite of sporadic damage,
much of the dynami te laid by Nazi troops fail ed to
destroy the buildings. Q Park open from dawn till dusk.
Admission free.
Mokotowskie Field (Pole Mokotowskie)
E-5. Penned in by the distri cts of Mokotw, Ochota
and rdmi eci e thi s park represents pri me real
estate, and ri ght now much of the land is subj ect
to sky-hi gh bods from nasty real estate devel opers.
Hands of f we say, and not j ust because drinking in
Pol e Mokotowski es countl ess bars i s one of the
hi ghli ghts of summer. Prior to WWII i t was used as a
mili tary parade ground, and then from 1910 as one
of Europes first airports. I t was here that the Polish
aviators wirko and Wigura began many of their aerial
adventures, and by 1921 passenger fli ghts linking
Warsaw wi th Paris (via Prague and Strasbourg) were
commonplace. The opening of Okcie Airport in 1933
sounded the death knell for the airport, and today i t
serves as a popular summer spot for suburbani tes,
as well the venue for publi c events such as the an-
nual Earth Festi val.
Saski Park (Ogrd Saski) B-2/3, between
ul. Marszakowska and ul. Krlewska. Opened
to the publ i c i n 1727 Saski Park ranks as one of the
ol dest publ i c parks i n the worl d, and was ori gi nal l y
desi gned i n a French styl e, before bei ng changed
to fol l ow Engl i sh aestheti cs i n the 19th centur y.
Ori gi nal l y par t of the Saski Pal ace compl ex the
parks hi ghl i ghts i ncl ude a sundi al dati ng from
1863 and the Tomb of the Unknown Sol di er (the
onl y survi vi ng part of the Pal ace). Al though wrecked
by Nazi mi screants i n 1944 many of trees i n the
park survi ved, and i ts possi bl e to fi nd ones dati ng
from a quarter of a mi l l enni um ago. An empi re styl e
fountai n desi gned by Marconi i n 1855 stands cl ose
to the bottom corner of the park, and other poi nts
of i nterest i ncl ude a memori al honouri ng Warsaw
resi dents ki l l ed duri ng WWI I, and a statue of Stefan
Starzyski, the ci tys mayor at the outbreak of WWII
who was later to become another statistic of Dachau
concentrati on camp.
Ujazdowski Park G-4. Not as grand as the nearby
azienki, its still a pleasant place to walk the dog and
get up to other typical Sunday pastimes. It stands under
the imposing shadow of Ujazdowski Castle which was
rebuilt in the 1970s.
Parks
Augsburg Lutheran Cemetery (Cmentarz
ewangelicko-augsburski) D-2, ul. Mynarska
54/56/58. Designed by Szymon Bogumi Zug in 1792
this treasure contains the elaborate tombs of countless
movers and shakers. Those interred include Samuel
Bogumi Linde - author of Polands first dictionary - and
Polands version of the Willie Wonka family: the Wedels.
Highlights include a cast iron chapel dating from 1821.
Calvinist Reformed Cemetery (Cmentarz
ewangelicko-reformowany) D-2, ul. ytnia 42,
tel. (+48) 22 632 03 30. As well as containing the
remains of writer Stefan eromski, this cemetery is also
the resting place of the youngest victim of Pawiak Prison
and the then Gestapo regime, Kaj Silversjold aged six
months. Be sure to check out the Teutonic style inscrip-
tions on some of the graves. Looming over it all is the
Kronenburg mausoleum, a striking necropolis built for
one of Warsaws most famed industrialists. Q Open in
October from 08:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. From
November 08:00 till dusk; Sat, Sun from 09:00 till dusk.
Italian Military Cemetery (Cmentarz onierzy
Woskich) ul. Marymoncka (Bielany). Originally es-
tablished in 1926 the Italian cemetery holds the bodies of
868 soldiers killed on Polish territory during WWI, and a
further 1,415 killed during the course of WWII. Maintained
by the Italian Embassy the cemetery features an entry
gate complete with legionnaire shields, and a central
avenue leading to a grandiose monument.
Northern Cemetery (Cmentarz Komunalny
Pnocny) ul. Wycickiego 14 (Bielany), tel. (+48)
22 834 48 08. One of Europes largest cemeteries, and
a relatively new addition to the city. Created in 1973 this
vast graveyard contains over 135,000 graves, including
those of poet Edward Stachura, German WWII casual-
ties, and the bodies of those killed in Polands biggest
air disaster - the 1980 LOT plane crash just outside the
city limits. Q Open from 08:00 till dusk.
Powzki Catholic Cemetery (Cmentarz
Powzki) D-1, ul. Powzkowska 14, tel. (+48) 22
838 55 25. Warsaws biggest, oldest and most beauti-
ful cemetery. Famous corpses include the poet Leopold
Staff, aviators wirko and Wigura, and Nobel prize
winner Wadysaw Reymont. It also contains the grave
of Stefan Starzyski, the mayor of Warsaw at the time
of the German invasion. His body was never recovered
after he was detained by the Gestapo. Vast areas of
the cemetery are taken up by Home Army soldiers killed
during the Uprising. QOpen 07:00 - 18:00.
Soviet War Cemetery (Cmentarz Mauzoleum
onierzy Radzieckich) E-6, Al. wirki i Wigury
10. Dominated by a huge needle-like monument this
is one of the first Warsaw landmarks seen on the way
from the airport. The towering monument features some
interesting socialist reliefs depicting Red Army troops
liberating Polish civilians, and the inscription reads To
the memory of the soldiers lost in the liberation of Poland
1944-1945. Mass graves containing the remains of
20,000 soldiers flank each side of the memorial.
Warsaw Upri si ng Cemetery (Cmentarz
Powstacw Warszawy) ul. Wolska 174/176
(Wola). Approximately 40,000 participants in the 44
Uprising are buried here, their resting places marked with
wood graves and red and white sashes.
Cemeteries
90
WHAT TO SEE
91
WHAT TO SEE
the public, and during the war apparently served as a contact
point for the Polish underground. Its role as a meeting point for
academics and intellectuals continued well into communism,
and today this family run operation allows visitors to glimpse
Warsaw and other global landmarks in their pre-war glory.
The show lasts 20 minutes and comes highly recommended.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 4/2z. Sun free.
Invisible Exhibition (Niewidzialna Wystawa) A-4,
Al. Jerozolimskie 123a, tel. (+48) 504 32 44 44, www.
niewidzialna.pl. Would you pay good money for an exhibition
you cant see? Thats the idea behind Niedwidzialna Wystawa
(The Invisible Exhibition), which takes visitors into the world of
the sightless. The roughly hour-long tours (which we recommend
you book in advance to avoid waiting) are helmed by guides who
know of what they speak: all are partially or completely blind
themselves. Tours begin with several stations that help get
you acclimated to the challenges blind people face daily. Youll
get to tap on a Braille typewriter, test out gadgets that help the
sightless do tasks in the kitchen, and try to solve simple puzzles
while wearing a blindfold. Once youre sufficiently awed by your
inability to do even minor tasks the guide leads the group into
the main portion of the exhibition: a pitch-black series of rooms
that force you to rely on your other senses to get by (were not
kidding about the darkness level; be prepared). Youll visit an
art gallery, a bar and take a walk outside while the guides ask
questions about what youre encountering - youll be listening
for the swoosh of cars before crossing the street, or feeling
a sculpture to discern what kind of art it is. If you bring along
change the guide will even serve you a drink in the completely
dark bar. An eye-opening experience that will have you thinking
heavily about what you take for granted. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Last entrance 60 minutes before clos-
ing. Admission 21-25/16-22z, family ticket 57-66z.
Tourist Information (Stoeczne Biuro Turysty-
ki) ul. wirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 194
31, www.warsawtour.pl. Located in the arrivals hall of
the new part of the airport, the point is small but has all
the necessary guides and maps you might need including
In Your Pockets. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00.
Tourist Information (Stoeczne Biuro Tu-
rystyki) A/B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 54 (Warszawa
Centralna Train Station), tel. (+48) 22 194 31,
www.warsawtour.pl. Tourism information along with
plenty of brochures and maps to get new arrivals at
Centralna oriented to the city found inside the Service
Point in the main hall. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
Tourist Information (Stoeczne Biuro Turysty-
ki) B-4, Palace of Culture, Pl. Defilad 1 (entrance
from ul. Emilii Plater), tel. (+48) 22 194 31, www.
warsawtour.pl. This central tourist information office
is inside the Palace of Culture (if you exit central station
on the Zote Tarasy shopping complex side and cross
over the road youll see it). Inside you can choose from
a series of guides as well as buy some souvenir books
and gifts. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00.
Tourist Information (Stoeczne Biuro Tu-
rystyki) B-2, Rynek Starego Miasta 19/21/21a,
tel. (+48) 22 194 31, www.warsawtour.pl. Find
this point on the Market Square of Old Town where you
can pick up maps, guides, book tours and buy gifts and
souvenirs. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
Tourist information
Palmiry - The National Memorial Museum
(Muzeum - Miejsce Pamici Palmiry) Palmiry,
tel. (+48) 22 720 81 14, www.palmiry.mhw.pl. This
brand new and highly recommended museum in the forest
outside Warsaw significantly ups the standard for how a
small exhibit can pack a huge punch. A little history: during
World War II the forests of Palmiry and Kampinos became
a refuge for those fleeing the destruction in Warsaw
(many Home Army soldiers regrouped in the woods). It
also became the site for 21 separate mass executions
performed by German soldiers against 1,700 Poles and
Jews, many of whom were academic and cultural figures.
Inside this well-organized modern block visitors will see
how the Poles used the forest for training and hiding
weapons, and how the Germans turned their refuge into
a killing field. Information boards clearly explain what hap-
pened in the forest (these are some of the best English
translations weve seen) and displays include exhumed
items like documents and photos, even sections of trees
with ammunition still buried in their bark. A video re-enacts
how German soldiers systematically marched civilians to
their deaths, and the tour ends with an endless audio loop
that reads the names of the victims. Outside visitors will
see a giant cemetery of marked and unmarked crosses
(the museum also describes the exhumation process that
took place in the forest) dedicated to the victims. While
the museum is mainly dedicated to what happened in
the forests during World War II it also makes note of the
fact that Poles have taken to these woods during the
Kosciuszko Uprising in 1794, the November Uprising in
1831 and the January Uprising in 1863. Getting to the
museum from Warsaw involves a subway trip that con-
nects to a slightly stomach-churning 45-minute bus ride
on the 800 bus, which only runs Saturday and Sunday.
During the week catch the PKS bus from Warszawa Dw.
Gdanski at 09:00 or 09:30. QOpen 10:00 - 15:00. Closed
Mon. Admission free. Guided tours in English are 100zl,
please book in advance.
Palmiry
Multimedia Fountain Park (Multimedialny Park
Fontann) B-1, Skwer im. I Dywizji Pancernej. This
new tourist attraction was opened in May 2011 as part of
the city of Warsaws ongoing attempt to increase the citys
number of cultural and tourist attractions and has been
met with widespread acclaim and approval. Located in the
Podzamcze district a short walk to the north of the old town,
the Multimedia Fountain Park as it is known is a visual delight
combining music, light and, as the name suggests, fountains.
Built on the site of a derelict concrete pond, the fountain is
part of a plan to revitalize this central Warsaw district by
attracting visitors from the tourist trail close by and cost
over 11 million PLN to create. Featuring 367 nozzles which
are capable of firing water 800 cubic metres of water 25m
into the air over the rebuilt, 3,000 square metre pond, the
stunning visual show is provided by the synchronisation of
295 LED RGB lights combined with a laser projector with
the fountain. Shows last about 30 minutes and include sets
where the fountains are lit in a myriad of colours or where
lasers create visual effects such as the Warsaw symbol of
Syrena (the Mermaid) moving through the water. By far the
most impressive part of the show is where a series of films
and images are projected onto a wall of water created by the
spray from the fountains. Youll see films following themes
such as Chopins Warsaw, Modern Warsaw or Legends of
Warsaw projected with remarkable clarity onto this wall of
water while pieces of music ranging from Chopin to Lady
Gaga blast from the surrounding speakers.
The shows have proved so popular that visitors are warned
to take up a position as early as possible on the banked view-
ing terraces in order to get the best views and early demand
resulted in the number of shows being increased to satisfy
the large numbers of locals and foreign tourists wanting to
experience the show. We thoroughly recommend it and why
it is hardly the Bellagio show from Vegas it is definitely an
enjoyable way to spend time after dining in the old town or
as a starting point to the evening ahead.
Saski Palace. One piece of lost Warsaw that is set to rise
again is the Saski Palace, formerly located in the grounds
of Saski Park (B-2). Originally the residence of the Morsztyn
family the building was purchased by King Augustus II and
substantially enlarged and used by both him and his suc-
cessor, Augustus III. Off-topic, but nevertheless worth airing,
amateur historians will delight in learning that Augustus II
sired 12 children by different women, while his successor
managed to match the number, only this time staying loyal
to his wife in the process.
Royal Castle (Zamek Krlewski) B-2, Pl.
Zamkowy 4, tel. (+48) 22 355 51 70, www.zamek-
krolewski.pl. More a palace than a castle, this building
is the pride of Warsaw, reconstructed from a pile of rubble
at incredible cost between 1971 and 1984. Much of the
furniture was donated by now deceased commie buddies
such as the GDR and USSR, and much of the money for
rebuilding came from generous donations from exiled
Poles. Dating back to the 14th century, the castle has
been the residence of Polish kings, then of the president
and then the seat of parliament. The prescribed tour will
take you through the Kings apartments and chambers,
heavily adorned with paintings of famous Polish mo-
ments. Maps on the wall reflect Polands greatest days,
when it stretched from the Baltic to the Black Sea. The
apartments of Jzef Poniatowski have recently been
opened to the public, though unfortunately none of the
accompany descriptions are in English. The rooms are
still a worthwhile part of the tour, if for no other reason
than to see the Princes surprisingly cerulean bedroom
and grand collection of paintings. Some of the halls
are reputed to be intermittently haunted by a white
lady. According to l egend her appearance si gnals
imminent disaster. The nearby chapel boasts an urn
containing the heart of Polish hero and freedom fighter
Tadeusz Kocuiszko. Next on the tour, the Houses of
Parliament. Last but not least, the opulent Great As-
sembly Hall has so much gold stuck to the walls its
hard to resist the temptation to scratch some off - just
a bit, they wouldnt notice. Behave or get accosted by
vigilant wardens and enjoy the views across the river to
the Praga district instead. For those interested in the
Castles reconstruction the basement exhibition From
Destruction to Reconstruction details the buildings
resurrection after World War II rendered the place a pile
of rubble. Note that this exhibition is free, so those not
willing to spring for a ticket for the entire tour can still
visit this section of the Castle. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00,
Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour
before closing. Admission 22/15z, family ticket 14z per
person. Sun free. Poniatowski apartments 14/7zl, family
ticket 6zl per person. Sun free. Guides in English 110z,
audioguides 17/12z. Y
Royal Castle
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WHAT TO SEE
93
PKIN
Follow POLANDIYP on
Palace of Culture and Science (PKiN) (Paac
Kultury i Nauki) B-4, Pl. Defilad 1, tel. (+48) 22 656
76 00, www.pkin.pl. Dont let the name fool you - this is not
the cultural hub of Warsaw. That said, however long youre in
the city for this is a must-see to experience Soviet Warsaw.
For all the aggressive westernisation that has overcome
Warsaw, the four decades of communism have yet to be
completely erased from the face of Warsaw.. You couldnt
miss this hulking giant of a landmark if you tried. Soaring 231
metres into the sky the building remains the tallest in Poland,
in spite of recent competition from its highrise neighbours.
Originally commissioned by Stalin as a gift from the Soviet
people the structure actually takes its inspiration from the
capitalist world, namely the Empire State Building, but, be-
lieve it or not, was specifically designed to include influences
from all of Polands architectural styles. Stalin had sent a
secret delegation to New York to learn both about the building
and American construction methods, though the outbreak
of WWII meant that it wasnt until 1952 that his architects
were able to commence putting their knowledge into prac-
tice. Lev Rudynev, the brains behind the equally monstrous
Lomonosov University in Moscow, was put in charge of the
design and set about making the building into one of the most
notorious examples of Socialist Realist architecture in the
world. Over 5,000 workers were ferried in from the Soviet
states and housed in a purpose-built village in Jelonki, west
Warsaw, where they were effectively cut off from the outside
world. Working around the clock, it took them just three years
to complete the Palace. In all 16 died during the construction,
though despite the Olympian efforts of the labourers Stalin
never lived to see his pet project completed.
Built using an estimated 40 million bricks and housing 3,288
rooms the Palaces purpose was to serve as not just party
headquarters but also the peoples castle, with invitations
to the annual New Years Eve Ball issued to the best workers
in socialist Poland. Regardless of this the building became an
object of hatred and a stain on the skyline; like the imperialist
Nevsky Cathedral that once stood on pl. Pisudskiego, the palace
was seen as no more than a symbol of Russian hegemony.
Viewed from a distance - apparently it can be spotted from
30km away - the palace appears a faceless monolith. Viewed
closely several intricate details appear in focus. Under Stalins
orders architects travelled around Polands key cultural sights,
from Wawel to Zamo, observing Polish architectural tradi-
tions, hence the numerous crenulations, courtyards and motifs.
Once inside the ground floor becomes a maze of halls and
corridors, with chambers named after Eastern icons - Yuri
Gagarin, Marie Skodowska-Curie (a famous communist
sympathiser), etc. Brass chandeliers hang over clacking
parquet flooring, secret lifts lie hidden around and allegorical
socialist reliefs take inspiration from ancient mythology - its
easy to imagine Bond snooping around planting listening de-
vices. Several conference rooms still hold original translator
booths, complete with huge dials and buttons. The crowning
glory of the ground floor is the Sala Kongresowa, a decadent
red theatre space apparently inspired by La Scala. Holding
2,880 its original use was to host party conferences, though
through the years it became better known as a concert venue
- hosting acts as diverse as the Rolling Stones in 1967 and
the Chippendales in 2006.
Given that the building boasts over 3,300 rooms there is
not a lot to see, unless youre into conference facilities, so
visitors are best directed to the terrace on the 30th floor. To
get there youll need to buy a ticket for 20z, after which youll
be shepherded into an old-style lift complete with a lovely
lift attendant who has probably been doing the job since
the building opened. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00. Admission for
the viewing level is 20/15z. Group ticket for more than 10
people 12z per person.
Museum of Technology (Muzeum Techniki) B- 4,
Pl. Defilad 1 (PKiN), tel. (+48) 22 656 67 47, www.
muzeum-techniki.waw.pl. A vast collection dedicated to
the history of everything technological inside the equally
enormous Palace of Culture & Science, this museum is only
missing a map. Truly huge, and clearly laid out by somebody
with a sadistic sense of humour, the scores of rooms are
scattered willy nilly and organised with what appears to be
a contemptuous disregard for reason and logic. Highlights
include a cavalcade of impossible-looking motorbikes and
aeroplanes, a room packed wi th 19th century musical
boxes, historical cars like a 1936 Lux-Sport limousine
chassis and a small exhibition celebrating space exploration
that could do with some serious updating. Decorated with
lace curtains and staffed by an army of sinister-looking old
ladies, this museum guarantees that you wont learn a thing
no matter how hard you try, but its a strangely rewarding
experience that really has to be seen to be believed. Q
Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 14/8z. Family ticket (up to 5 people) 30z. Guided
tours for up to 25 people 50z.
failed to find any undetonated devices, builders have since
come across over 10,000 rare archaeological finds including
baroque sculptures, secret tunnels, ancient wells, German
helmets and wine glasses bearing August IIIs monogram. The
one problem being that no provision was made for discoveries
of this scale, meaning that many of the treasures recovered
have since corroded after being incorrectly stored. For the
time being work appears to have stopped completely, with
even the fences taken down - when itll resume is anyones
guess, though we could be in for a bit of a wait.
The Eastern Wall. Reeling
from near total annihilation the
post-war years saw Warsaw
emerge as Europes bi ggest
brickyard as it struggled to rebuild
itself from the ashes. Initially the
buzzword for archi tects in the
regi on was Socialist Realism,
a severe styl e foll owing stri ct
guidelines from a Soviet master-
plan. The death of Stalin in 1953
changed all that and architects
looked to the west for inspiration,
a disastrous move that saw all manner of brutalist monstrosi-
ties rise from the ruins. The competition in Warsaw is fierce,
but probably nastiest of the lot is the development dubbed
the Eastern Wall (ciana Wschodnia), a collection of build-
ings and tower block running from Rondo Dmowskiego (B-4)
to ul. witokrzyska (B-3). Architect Zbigniew Karpiski - the
guy who also designed the bunker-like US Embassy on ul.
Pikna - won the competition to rebuild the area and set
about remodelling the centre of Warsaw with the zealous
glee of a complete nutter. Construction kicked off in 1962
and was completed seven years later, the result being four
department stores, the Rotunda bank building, a blockish
office building behind it, a cinema, and even a nightclub.
Towering over it all were three residential blocks situated on
witokrzyska (85 metres), Zgoda (87 metres) and Chmielna
(81 metres). Originally hailed a work of genius the Eastern
Wall soon became a bit of a rusty elephant, crippled and
blackened with age and neglect. The collapse of communism
breathed new life into the complex - Polands first McDon-
alds was opened at the witokrzyska end of the complex,
while the office block behind the Rotunda temporarily held
the title for having the largest billboard in the world. More
recently steps have been taken to polish up the area with
shining glass frontages added to the department stores,
and granite floored pedestrian walkways and modern tubular
lighting added to the section behind the Jerozolimskie end.
But snoop behind the area around McDs and youll find a
glorious blast to the past, with smashed pavements, useless
bare-lit supermarkets and a couple of cafes selling ersatz
coffee to hunched old men smoking cigarettes by the fistful.
Back on track, when Augustus III passed away (shagged out
most likely) the building fell into disuse before being rented
out for accommodation. Between 1806-1816 the Prussians
established Warsaw Lyceum on the premises, and conflicting
evidence suggests that Chopin either lived there for a time,
or that his father taught French in one of the outbuildings.
Extensively remodelled in 1842 the Palace finally assumed
its best known shape in 1925 when the Tomb of the Un-
known soldier was added to the series of colonnades used
to link the two wings together. Serving as the seat of the
Polish General Staff after WWI it was here that the German
Enigma Code was first cracked by local science boffins.
WWII signalled the end of the Palace and it was flattened by
retreating Nazi troops, with only the Tomb of the Unknown
Soldier surviving the blasts.
But the story continues. In a rare act of foresight the city of
Warsaw has decided to cover the 201 million zoty cost of
rebuilding Saski Palace. Budimex Dromex have been awarded
the tender to undertake the work and the faade, thanks to
blueprints made available by the Central Military Archive, will
look just like it did in 1939. Its not known what will occupy
the space, with ideas ranging from a Museum of Polish His-
tory to an institute dedicated to the thoughts of Pope John
Paul II. Completion was originally set for 2010, though so far
building work has not entirely gone to plan. Although sappers
Ronald Reagan Monu-
ment (Pomnik Ron-
alda Reagana) C- 4,
Al. Ujazdowskie. A large
bronze statue of U.S. Presi-
dent Ronald Reagan now
calls Warsaw home after
an unveiling in November
2011 that included former
Polish President and Soli-
darity leader Lech Wasa.
The large 3.5-metre monu-
ment portrays Reagan, who
was the 40th president of
the United States and held
of fi ce from 1981-1989,
when he stood at a podium
at Berlins Brandenburg gate and declared, Mr. Gor-
bachev, tear down this wall, back in 1987.
So why are the Poles using their valuable bronze on the
Gipper? In Poland Reagan is considered one of the 20th
centurys most important leaders thanks to his long-
standing opposition to communism. During Reagans
Christmas address in 1981 he cited the persecution of
the Solidarity trade union by the countrys communist
government as evidence that the regime was waging
war against i ts own people. That holiday season
candles were put in the windows of the White House to
show Reagans support of the Solidarity movement and
the Polish people.
Reagans continued poli cy of vi gorousl y promoting
democracy and condemning communism is credited
as hastening the dissolution of the Soviet Union, and
along with Pope John Paul II he was a strong supporter
of Wasas campaign for presidency in 1990. During the
unveiling ceremony Wasa noted his belief that without
Reagan Poland wouldnt be a free nation today. The
statue, which was created by Polish sculptor Wadysaw
Dudek, can be found across the street from the United
States embassy.
Ronald Reagan Monument
Courtesy of U.S. Embassy
in Warsaw
Kescior/Wikipedia
94
95
Old Town (Stare Miasto) B-1/2. The Old Town is a
labyrinth of winding streets and squares full of olde worlde
charm. While it was entirely rebuilt after the Warsaw upris-
ing of 1944, it is well worth a visit to get lost amongst the
cobbles and tastefully recreated facades. Souvenirs ranging
from the tasteless - baseball hats and fridge magnets, paint-
ings of coquettish horses - to the tasteful - amber, lace and
ceramics - are best found here, though at premium tourist
prices. The best thing about the Old Town, however, is the
tangible sense of Polish pride in their city and if nothing else,
its a great place to relax with a beer and indulge in an hour
or two of nun spotting.
When US General Dwi ght Ei senhower vi si ted Warsaw
immediately after the war he was moved to comment, I
have seen many towns destroyed, but nowhere have
I been faced with such destruction. Buri ed under
twenty million cubic metres of rubble the city resembled
a shattered shell; over hal f the population had been killed,
and 85% of the city razed to the ground. The Old Town had
been hit with particular Nazi efficiency, and by the time
the Red Army rolled across the river it was little more than
a smouldering heap of bricks. To their credit the Capital
Reconstruction Bureau chose to rebuild the historic centre,
a painstaking process that would last until 1962. Using
pre-war sketches, paintings and photographs the Ol d
Town was carefully rebuilt, though only at the considerable
expense of Polands recovered territories. Szczecin, for
instance, was coerced into demolishing many of its historic
buildings in order to donate an estimated 27 million bricks
to the Warsaw rebuilding program. So too Wrocaw, which
at one stage was sending a staggering one million bricks
to Warsaw per day; He who loves Wrocaw, loves Warsaw
as well pined a propaganda tune of the era. But forget the
other cities, look at the results in front of you. Although
its barely hal f a century old Warsaws historic quarter is
an architectural miracle, and a breathing tribute to a city
that refused to die.
Most visits to the Old Town begin on plac Zamkowy (B-2),
and i f youre Polish then right under the statue of Zygmunt.
There isnt a more popular meeting spot in the city, and
theres not a minute of the day when the steps to the
statue arent besieged by dating couples or banjo playing
irritants. Erected in 1644 by Zygmunt IIIs son, Wadysaw
IV, the twenty two metre column was originally designed by
Italian architects Augustyn Locci and Constantino Tencalla,
and the figure of Zygmunt ranks as Polands second oldest
monument - beaten into runners up spot by the Neptun
Fountain in Gdask. Local legend asserts that Zygmunt
rattles his sabre whenever Warsaw is in trouble, an occur-
rence that was first reported during the 1794 Kociuszko
Uprising and again during WWII. One fact that cant be
disputed is his good fortune. With the Warsaw Uprising in
full swing the column took a direct hit from a tank shell and
came crashing down. Amazingly Zygmunt survived, losing
only his sword, and he was returned to a new perch in 1949.
The column he fell off is still knocking around as well, and
you can find it lying on its side within spitting distance of
the Royal Castle.
Moving forward head down witojaska to run a gaunt-
let of buskers, ice cream queues and shoe shine boys.
Somewhere amid the melee youll spot the Cathedral (see
Churches), well worth popping into, not least to check out
the Baruczkowski Crucifix - a 16th century cross renowned
for its mysterious powers. Famed in particular for its crypt
this neo-Gothic masterpiece also contains stunning works
of art, as well as tank tracks on the exterior wall recovered
from a remote-controlled German tank used to attack the
cathedral in 1944. The overall effect is quite something, so
its no surprise many people bypass the Jesuit Church right
next door, a super renaissance building described in detail
in our Churches section.
Its hard to believe that by the end of 1944 all before you
was just a skeletal set of ruins, but thats exactly what it
was. Evidence of this can be viewed on ul. Zapiecka where
some black and white photographs show aerial views of the
war time devastation. The Old Towns subsequent inclusion
on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1980 is remembered
in the form of some cobbled stones set into the ground. As
tempting as it is to make a beeline for the main square, the
Rynek, save yourself for now. Head instead down ul. Piwna,
or Beer Street as it translates. Although theres no evidence
of the 15th century breweries that once thrived here you will
find a couple of half decent hostelries, though the real reason
many visit this street is for a glimpse of St. Martins Church
on ul. Piwna 9/11. This place was utterly annihilated during
the war, and the only fragment to survive was a half-burned
figure of Jesus. Since its inception the church has always
been linked with theological and political dissent, and this
was never more true than in the period of Martial Law, when
Solidarity supporters would convene here for both worship
and secret meetings. As with the rest of Old Town, the real
beauty of Piwna lies in the details - check out the elaborate
paintings and gargoyles that peer from the facades, and
dont miss the portal at number 6. Known locally as Pod
Gobiami (under the pigeons) and housing a restaurant
called Karmnik, this place acquired its name after the war
when a batty old woman settled in the ruins and made it her
calling to look after the flocks of pigeons that stalked around
the post-war debris.
OLD TOWN
Back outside take stock of one of Polands finest town
squares. In the 15th century this was occupied by a town
hall, though this was pulled down in 1817 and never re-
placed. Instead, today youll find a couple of water pumps
dating from the 19th century, as well as Warsaws best
loved monument - Syrenka. Cast in 1855 this mermaids
form graces every bus, tram and coat of arms youll find in
the capital. Youre also liable to run into a platoon of street
artists. Most famous of the lot is Piotr Bol, a weird, cloaked
little man who plays one of Europes last music boxes with
a parrot alongside him. But for real comedy gold check out
the mime artists who stand in frozen posture - a few years
back one such chap, dressed as a monk, collapsed after
a marathon booze binge leaving his giant genitals exposed
to the world.
Leaving the square head down ul. Kamienne Schodki.
Not only is this the longest stairwell in Old Town, its also
where Napoleon stood in 1806, pensively staring east-
ward on the eve of his campaign on the plains of Russia.
From here walk south down ul. Brzozowa until you reach
the grassy bank that offers sweeping views of the River
Wisa. Known as Gnojna Gra (Compost Hill), this small
knoll once served as the town rubbish dump, and at one
stage was also renowned for its healing properties - this is
where the stupid rich would come to be buried up to their
necks in rubbish in a supposed cure for syphilis. Doesnt
work, weve tried.
Head back towards the Old Town by walking towards ul.
Dawna, whose trademark blue archway is one of the most
picturesque sights in the city. Finally, conclude your epic
walking tour by swerving onto ul. Kanonia. Once a grave-
yard, this small little square features a cracked cathedral
bell (that promises good luck i f you touch the top and
circle it) as well as what is touted as the worlds narrowest
house at number 20/22 (though a new narrow home being
constructed in the crack between 22 Chodna St. and 74
elazna St. that measures just 72 cm at its smallest point
may just top it). Close by note the covered walkway linking
the cathedral to the castle. This was built after a failed
assassination attempt on Zygmunt III. The King escaped
unmolested, but the hapless hitman, Michal Piekarski,
found himsel f skinned alive, stretched by four horses and
then chopped into pieces with an axe. And on that happy
note, consider your tour at an end.
OLD TOWN
Stay on the left flank of the Old Town to check out the area
around ul. Piekarska and ul. Rycerska. This area was for-
merly home to a small square used primarily for executions.
Nicknamed Piekarka this is where witches and other neer do
wells would be burned at the stake, hung or have their heads
lopped off. Marking the end of Piekarska, just outside the old
city walls, check out the sword waving figure of Jan Kiliski
(see Monuments), a legendary Polish patriot and a hero of the
1794 Kociuszko Uprising. The man who gave his name to
that Uprising, Tadeusz Kociuszko (the same lad who would
fight with distinction in the American War of Independence,
and would later have Australias highest peak named after
him), lived at Szeroki Dunaj 5. This wide street was formerly
home to Warsaws fish market, while the street running at a
90 degree angle, Wski Dunaj, was the towns original Jewish
Quarter back in medieval times. Directly behind the wall, and
onto Podwale, youll find one of Warsaws most photographed
landmarks; The Monument to the Little Insurgent. Depicting
a boy weighed down by a machine gun and outsized helmet
the monument honours the memory of the child soldiers who
fought and died in the 1944 Warsaw Uprising, and its not
rare to find the bronze statue surrounded by school groups
on their day out to the capital.
Foll ow Podwal e as i t curves northwards, and i f youre
feeling peckish at this stage search the radar for signs
of Podwale Kompania Piwna at number 25 (see Where to
Eat). Resembling a typical European beer hall this place
is an absolute legend, with servings of meat and cabbage
practically forklifted onto tables. At this stage its fair to say
youll probably be feeling like a python who swallowed a pig,
so waddle with great care and attention to the Barbakan
building, making sure to avoid those annoying street dudes
wholl try and lead you to their executioners block to have
your pic snapped. Crowning the set of defensive walls which
once protected the city is the Barbakan, a fearsome rotund
structure that dates from 1548 and was apparently the work
of a Venetian architect. Today it serves as a bridge between
Old and New Town, and is also the hangout of choice for
teenagers drinking super-strength lager. In summer tours of
the interior are available, and well worth the look if you dont
have an aversion to confined spaces. Interestingly, the moat
that pins the Old Town in is another relatively recent addition
to Warsaw. The original ditch was filled in back in the 18th
century when the defences became obsolete, and the walls
were incorporated into the dense tangle of townhouses
that mushroomed up around. Fragments of these forgotten
defences were unearthed in 1937, and a decade later, with
Warsaw in ruins, architects took the decision to restore and
expose these ancient walls.
Its at this point youll find your nose pointing straight down
ul. Nowomiejska, a street revered for Warsaws best ice
cream. Continue forward to reach the Old Town Square
(Rynek). No matter how often you see it, it cant fail to leave
you breathless. The burgher houses that line the square
are particularly striking, with many boasting intricate details
on the facades. Measuring 90 metres by 73 this square is
Warsaws defining highlight, and presents unlimited ways
to squander your money - tourist junk stores and crappy
restaurants populated with stuffed animals come to mind.
One place that is worth popping into, even if its just to steal
the cutlery, is U Fukiera at number 27. The culinary tradition
here dates from 1810 when the Fukier family turned this
place into Warsaws top winery. Today the restaurant is
in the hands of the Gesslers, and their guest list reads as
something of a Whos Who of stage and screen. Close by is
the Historical Museum of Warsaw, which has been closed
for renovations but reopens in May be one of the first to
see this excellent museums overhaul.
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PRAGA PRAGA
Gritty. Bo-ho. Up-and-coming. There are a lot of terms be-
ing tossed around to describe Praga, the eastern district of
Warsaw that hugs the Vistula River, and theyre all fairly apt.
Praga has long been regarded as off-limits to Western visitors
thanks to its criminal underclass and imposing tower blocks,
but a revival of sorts now makes this section of town worthy
of emphasising - especially if you prefer to see the citys
artsy underbelly and get away from the well-trodden tourist
path in Old Town. The area is still at least five years away
from being hipster-soaked Brooklyn or boho Montmartre, but
thats exactly why now is the time to go: a visit will mean you
can say you saw the evolution in progress.
In practice and geographically Praga has always been set
apart from Warsaw proper. Until 1791 the district was its own
separate town and the inability to build a permanent bridge
between Praga and Warsaw until the mid-18th century surely
proved a factor in the separatism (ferries in the summer
and a stroll across the iced-over Vistula in the winter were
the main option for transit in the pre-bridge days). Finally
in 1791 King Stanislaw August Poniatowski attached the
district officially to Warsaw, dissolving it of its independence
(at least on paper).
Praga wasnt given much time to enjoy its new status as
part of Warsaw thanks to the The Battle of Praga in 1794,
which saw an aggressive invasion by the Russian army. Fol-
lowing the quick but devastating battle the Russians burned
the entire district and massacred the 20,000 Poles living
there. During World War II Praga wasnt quite as devastated
as Warsaw proper (which isnt really saying much if youve
seen the condition Warsaw was left in). The Russians, again,
arrived in Praga in July 1944 and stopped at the Vistula,
famously leaving the Polish Home Army dangling during the
Warsaw Uprising.
Today working-class Praga is the standard-bearer for cool,
especially among those who find the tourist-heavy Old Town
too Disneyfied and the sterile clubs of Warsaw proper as
distasteful. Folks here prefer their bars dark and their fun
improvised, and visitors can easily spend a day checking
out the sights and an evening enjoying the often impressive
beer selection.
Agnieszka Osiecka Monument (Pomnik Ag-
nieszki Osieckiej) H-2, ul. Francuska (corner of ul.
Obrocw). Agnieszka Osiecka (1936 - 1997) was a Polish
poet and journalist, and the author of over 2,000 songs,
many of which were turned into pop hits. Shes also known
for a particularly grisly connection to the Swinging Sixties;
her first marriage ended in tragedy when her husband,
Wojciech Frykowski, became one of those slain by Charles
Mansons family of weirdos in what would turn out to be
one of the crimes of the century. The statue is located in
Praga Poudnie, a more modern section of Praga (note the
surrounding embassies) than Stara Praga. To round out your
visit check out Osieckas favourite caf, Maska, which stands
around the corner from her monument.
Bears C-1, Praski Park (from al. Solidarnoci), tel.
(+48) 22 619 40 41. Strangely enough, bears have been
living on the concrete island in Praski Park since 1949; over
400 have been reared here before being packed off to zoos,
safari parks and circuses around the globe. Although the
bears look rather sleepy they can still pack a punch. Several
years ago a drunken idiot was savaged after jumping into
the enclosure. The two current well-rested residents are
called Tatra and Turnia.
Buildings. Although in a sorry state of disrepair, much of
Praga survived the war. Nowadays, to walk around the bullet-
scarred tenement houses found by the riverside is to immerse
yourself in pre-war Praga. The oldest surviving residential
building in the district can be found on (H-1) ul. Targowa 50/52.
Built in 1819, it once housed a Jewish elementary school and
bears a Hebrew inscription dating from 1934. The Praska
Informacja Turystyczna (Praga Tourist Information) offers a
brochure about the buildings history that is unfortunately only
in Polish, however the staff is happy to interpret.
Kapela Podwrkowa Monument G-1, corner of ul.
Floriaska and ul. Kopotowskiego. The tradition of cloth-
capped buskers goes back a long way in Warsaw, and the
best loved of the lot have been commemorated in the heart
of Praga. The pre-war Kapela Podwrkowa (The Courtyard
Band) are a bit of a local legend in these parts, and now the
five piece band have been honoured with a noisy monument
sculpted by Andrzej Renes. Send a text (SMS) message to tel.
7141 with the text KAPELA, then pick a number between 1
and 100 (the list of 100 songs to choose from is on the side
of the brass drum); thats the signal for hidden speakers to
burst forth with pre-war and patriotic classics made famous
by these local heroes. However, recent visits to the statue
have shown the buskers to be temperamental, and texts did
not always result in a song being played.
Koci us z kowcw Monument (Pomni k
Kociuszkowcw) G-1, ul. Wybrzee Szczeciskie,
Near Port Praski. A formidable monument erected in 1985
to act as a memorial for those who fought in the First Polish
Infantry Division. Formed in Russia, the division attempted
to cross the Wisa river several times without success, in a
bid to support the 1944 Uprising.
Orthodox Church of St. Mary Magdalene (Cerkiew
w. Marii Magdaleny) G-1, Al. Solidarnoci 52, tel.
(+48) 22 619 84 67. Constructed between 1867 and 1869
to a design by Mikoaj Syczew, St. Mary Magdalenes was
originally built for the large congregation of Russians living
around Jagielloska as well as people arriving from the East
at the nearby Wileska train station. Now belonging to the in-
dependent Polish Autocephaly Orthodox Church, this stunning,
five-domed building features a breathtaking golden interior
and some unusually cheerful abstract designs. One of only
two Orthodox churches to survive a demolition campaign in
the 1920s, its easily the best-smelling church in Praga thanks
to the heavy burning of rich incense. QOpen 11:00 - 16:00.
Rycki Bazaar (Bazar Ryckiego) H-1, ul.
Targowa 54, tel. (+48) 22 619 44 06, www.bazarro-
zyckiego.pl. Once regarded as Warsaws premier bazaar,
the rambling Bazar Ryckiego has seen its popularity wane
since 1989. Black market trade once thrived under Nazi
and communist governments, but nowadays the historic
102-year-old market is a ghostly image of its former self.
Once considered the place for cardigans, firearms and
spurious goods, its now a mildly depressing look into work-
ing class Warsaw life. Visitors could easily outfit an entire
polyester wedding thanks to the heaps of vendors selling
cheap wedding dresses, tacky kiddie tuxes and chintzy
mother-of-the-bride gowns. QOpen 07:00 - 16:00, Sat
07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Soviet War Memorial (Pomnik Braterstwa Broni)
G-1, Pl. Wileski. Dedicated to the Soviet soldiers who died
during the liberation of Warsaw, this monument has been
removed due to the construction of a new Metro station
and will spend some time being restored before relocating
80 metres down the road on Pl. Wileski (towards ul. Cyryla
i Metodego). Erected in the immediate aftermath of WWII,
the rusting edi fice is the citys least loved memorial and
is often littered with graffiti (though the clean-up should
temporarily take care of this). Its Praga location is quite
apt - this was where the Red Army halted their advance in
1944, while Nazi troops put down the Warsaw Uprising and
then demolished the city.
Sts. Michael & Florian
Cathedral (Katedra w.
Michaa Archanioa i
w. Floriana) G- 1, ul.
Floriaska 3, tel. (+48) 22
619 09 60, www.katedra-
floriana.home.pl/cms/. This
giant gothic cathedral viewable
from across the Vi stul a i n
Warsaw proper was built in
reaction to the building of an
Orthodox Church and a num-
ber of other structures on the
Tsars orders in the latter half
of the 19th century. A certain
Pole by the name of Father Ignacy Dutkiewicz decided to hit
back with the construction of a huge new Catholic church,
which was consecrated in 1901. Unsurprisingly this vast Gothic
beast was blown to pieces by the Germans in September 1944
and is now almost exclusively the work of ongoing reconstruc-
tion between 1947 and 1970. Featuring a pair of steel-tipped
75-metre steeples, the church, which includes a photograph
of what remained of it after the Nazis dynamited it on the left
wall as you enter, has a rather plain interior though the vaulted
ceilings are well worth a look at if youre in the area. Q Open
by prior arrangement.
Zbkowska. Nowhere is Pragas revival better illustrated
than ulica Zbkowska, the natural gravitational point for all
the Boho and artistic types who have recently materialized
to upgrade the district. Originally lined with timber frame
houses, Zbkowska experienced a fierce blaze in 1868 that
led to wooden lodgings being replaced with tall tenements, all
but one surviving WWII. Post-war neglect hit the street hard,
with Zbkowska allowed to fall into such disrepair that plans
for wholesale demolition were seriously considered. However
it survived, and today restoration work has seen many of
buildings returned to their former glory, streets repaved and
galleries opened. For some the very name Zbkowska is syn-
onymous with lively bars filled with student revolutionaries.
Zoo C-1, ul. Ratuszowa 1/3, tel. (+48) 22 619 40
41, www.zoo.waw.pl. If the bears piqued your interest in
animals then head to the nearby Warsaw Zoo, which was
opened in 1928 and covers an area of 40 hectares. More
than 5,000 species call it home and that includes all the
biggies youd expect: lions, gorillas, giraffes and elephants to
name a few. As with every major Warsaw landmark, the zoo
has plenty of war stories. It was bombed at the beginning of
the conflict and by 1945 all the animals had either been killed,
deported to the Third Reich, eaten by locals or escaped into
the wild. Zoo director, Jan abiski, became something of a
hero; wounded during the 1944 Uprising, abiski helped
save countless lives by sheltering Jewish orphans inside
the grounds of the zoo. The zoo officially re-opened in 1949.
Q Open from 09:00 till dusk. Last entrance 1 hour before
closing. Admission 18/13z. Children under 3 years free.
Where to drink
Hydrozagadka ul. 11 Listopada 22. See Nightlife.
Po Drugiej Stronie Lustra H-1, ul. Jagielloska 22.
See Nightlife.
Saturator ul. 11 listopada 22. See Nightlife.
W Oparach Absurdu H-1, ul. Zbkowska 6. See
Nightlife.
Where to eat
DeCoteria H-1, ul. Zbkowska 16. See Restaurants.
By Public Transport:
From Centralna the 160 bus will take you across the
river and drop you at the Park Praski stop, a great place
to begin your tour of Praga (you can nod at the bears
as you disembark). If youre in the Old Town simply walk
down the steps near the Royal Castle to Al. Solidarnosci
and the Stare Miasto tram stop and every tram heading
over the river (23, 26) stops at Park Praski as well. These
same trams will return you to the Stare Miasto as well.
By taxi:
You can also take a taxi which should cost around
20-30z and should take you from the centre area to
Zbkowska in less than 20 minutes. Please remember
that the price and time depends on the traffic, so your
journey may be longer during rush hours.
Getting there
Praga Tourist Information (Praska Informacja
Turystyczna) H-1, ul. Zbkowska 27/31, tel. (+48)
22 670 01 56, www.totu.travel.pl. Info on the local
area and guided tours in English and Polish, as well as
an application for smartphones that offers a tour of
Praga in English. QOpen 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Tourist information
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against them, the Poles continued the fight on two fronts,
with segments of Chopin aired every 30 seconds by radio
to let the outside world know that Warsaw was still Polish.
However the human cost was starting to mount; the merci-
less bombardment had claimed the lives of over 50,000
Varsovians, the Royal Castle lay in ruins, and supplies of
food, power and water had reached critical levels. With Allied
aid not forthcoming, and a humanitarian disaster looming
large, the capital finally raised the white flag on September
28th. To bring the Polish heroics into perspective, Paris,
defended by the largest standing army in the world, took
just nine days to fall.
Occupation
Hitler arrived in Warsaw for his one and only visit to the
Polish capital on October 5th, inspecting a victory parade
on (C-4) Al. Ujazdowskie before scuttling off for a reception
at the Belvedere Palace. If his pre-war rants hadnt been
ominous enough, the Polish public were about to learn just
what a nutcase this man really was. The Fuhrers verdict on
the Poles is damning, wrote Goebbels shortly after Hitlers
stopover. More like animals than human beings, completely
primitive, stupid and amorphous.
Hitler carved Poland into pieces - parts were annexed into
the Reich, other areas - Warsaw included - found themselves
under the General Government of Hans Frank, an expert chess
player and fanatical Nazi: If I had to put up a poster for every
seven Poles I shot, the forests of Poland would not be sufficient
to manufacture the paper, he is said to have bragged. His rule
was textbook despot, both brutal and bloody, and it was under
his suggestion that Ludwig Fischer was appointed governor of
Warsaw, a post he would hold right until 1945. Fischer was
more bureaucrat than butcher, yet nonetheless it was under
his authority that Warsaw became a city of blood.
The racial politics of the Reich were pursued with active
intent, with whole swathes of the city set aside for Ger-
mans only. The largest Ghetto the world has ever seen was
constructed to the north, and Warsaw was marginalized in
importance and earmarked as a town whose true purpose
would be to soak up refugees expelled from Aryan territories
to the west. Chopin disappeared from his plinth, Copernicus
and his statue were awarded German identity, and the Polish
community alienated from their own city. Daily rations were
set to 669 calories (184 for Jews), and its estimated that a
quarter of the population were only saved from starvation
by the appearance of emergency soup kitchens. But worse
was to follow; from 1943 the Gestapo were granted carte
blanche to shoot people on mere suspicion of wrongdoing,
and street roundups and public executions became a daily
occurrence. This wasnt so much a city under occupation as
a city under tyranny.
WARSAW UPRISING
August 1, 1944. Warsaw, subject to five years of fascist
hegemony, rose up in popular rebellion in what would go on
to be recorded as the largest ever uprising in the German
occupied territories. With German morale in ribbons, a retreat
from Warsaw in full swing, and the Red Army already on the
east bank of the Wisa, no time seemed better than the pres-
ent. Following close contact with the Polish government-in-
exile, and assurances of Allied aid, the Home Army (Polands
wartime military movement a.k.a the Armii Krajowy or AK)
launched a military strike with the aim of liberating Warsaw
and installing an independent government.
During the event the Red Army made no concerted attempt
to help the Poles, while promises of Allied support proved
largely empty. As for the Nazi hierarchy, they reacted with
blind rage to this stroke of Polish insolence, and what ensued
was an epic 63 day struggle during which the Home Army
faced the full wrath of Hitler. The most notorious chapter of
Warsaws history was about to be written.
Outbreak of War
At 4:45am on September 1, 1939, shots were fired from Ger-
man gun emplacements positioned inside the lighthouse
at Danzig Neufahrwasser, found in what was then known as
the Free City of Danzig (today Gdansk). The object of the
aggression was the military garrison stationed on the Polish
controlled Westerplatte Peninsula, and within minutes the
German battleship Schleswig Holstein joined the bombard-
ment, inadvertently kicking off a conflict that would last six
years and cost 55 million lives.
Approximately an hour after Westerplatte the capital itself
came under aerial bombardment; waves of Stuka dive bomb-
ers swooped on the capital in what can only be described
as one of the worlds first ever terror bombings - hospitals,
schools and market places were all deemed legitimate
targets, while columns of fleeing refugees were strafed from
the air. Within a week German land forces had reached the
city limits, though any thoughts of a swift lightning victory
were quickly rebuffed. An opening tank assault on Ochota
was fended off, with the Germans losing 80 tanks from an
attacking force of 220. Spurred on by the stirring broadcasts
of Warsaw Mayor Stefan Starzynski the defenders dug in for
siege, fighting street by street and inch for inch. A German
demand for surrender on September 14th was rejected,
and in spite of claims of triumph in the German press the
city fought on, civilians and military alike joining together in
a desperate attempt to ward off the invaders.
Warsaws fate, and indeed Polands, was sealed days
later on the 17th of September when the Soviets invaded
from the east thereby fulfilling their part in the Nazi/Soviet
Molotov-Ribbentrop pact. Even so, with the odds stacked
Insurgents charge into battle
Into captivity
WARSAW UPRISING
The Uprising
With such a malignant machine in force its little surprise
Poland gave birth to Europes largest resistance move-
ment. Even still, with the war moving towards its closing
stages it was far from obvious that the resistance would
abandon its partisan tactics and launch a bona fide mili-
tary assault on the Nazis. By July 1944 the Red Army
led by Marshal Rokossovsky had reached the Wisla, and
on July 22 a panicked Fischer ordered the evacuation of
German civilians from Warsaw; sensitive papers were
torched and destroyed, trains screeched westwards to
Berlin and all the signs suggested liberation was but days
away. German intelligence was aware that an uprising
was possibl e, yet nothing seemed cl ear cut. Fischers
appeal s for 100,000 Pol es to present themsel ves to
work on anti-tank defences were ignored, as were broad-
casts reminding the Poles of their heroic battle against
Bolshevism in 1923. Tensions increased with Red Army
leaflet drops urging Varsovians to arms, and were further
exacerbated on July 30th with a Soviet radio announce-
ment declaring, People of the capital! To arms! Strike at
the Germans! May your million strong population become
a million soldiers, who will drive out the German invaders
and win freedom. Still, like boxers prowling the ring, each
side appeared locked in a waiting game, so much so that
German military despatches on the afternoon of August
1, 1944 concluded with, Warschau ist kalm. Warsaw
was anything but.
On orders from General Tadeusz Bor Komorowski 5pm
si gnall ed W-Hour ( Wybuch standing for outbreak), the
precise time when some 40,000 members of the Home
Army would attack key German positions. Warsaw at the
time was held by a garrison of 15,000 Germans, though any
numerical supremacy the Poles could count on was offset
by a chronic lack of arms, and a complete dearth of heavy
armour. Nonetheless the element of surprise caught the
Germans off guard, and in spite of heavy losses the Poles
captured a string of strategic targets, including the old town,
Prudential Tower (then the tallest building in Poland), and
the post office. The first day had cost the lives of 2,000
Poles, yet for the first time since occupation the Polish flag
fluttered once more over the capital.
Yet in spite of these initial successes their remained sev-
eral concerns. Polish battle groups were spread across
the city, and many had failed to link up as planned. More
worryingly, several objectives had been met with disas-
ter - the police district around (G-4) Al. Szucha remained
firmly in German hands, even more importantly, so did the
airport. Hitler, meanwhile, was roused out of his torpor,
screaming for No prisoners to be taken, and Every
inhabitant to be shot.
Within days German reinforcements started pouring in,
and on August 5th and 6th Nazi troops rampaged through
the western Wola district, massacring over 40,000 men,
women and children in what would become one of the most
savage episodes of the Uprising. Indeed, it was to prove a
mixed first week for the Poles. In liberated areas, behind
the barricades, cultural life thrived - over 130 newspapers
sprang up, religious services were celebrated and a scout
run postal service introduced. Better still, the first allied air
drops hinted at the support of the west. As it turned out,
this was just papering over the cracks. The Germans, under
the command of the Erich von dem Bach, replied with heavy
artillery, aerial attacks, armoured trains and tanks. Even
worse, the practice of using Polish women as human shields
was quickly introduced.
The insurgents were a mixed bag, featuring over 4,000
women in their ranks, a unit of Slovaks, scores of Jews
liberated from a Warsaw concentration camp, a platoon
of deaf and dumb volunteers led by an officer called Yo
Yo, and an escaped English prisoner of war called John.
Fantastically ill-equipped, the one thing on their side was
an almost suicidal fanaticism and belief. Casualties were
almost 20 times as high as those inflicted on the Germans,
yet the Poles carried on the fight with stoic sel f-assurance.
Air drops were vital i f the uprising was to succeed, though
hopes were scuppered with Stalins refusal to allow Allied
planes landing rights in Soviet-held airports. Instead the
RAF set up a new route running from the Italian town of
Brindisi to Warsaw, though casualty rates proved high with
over 16% of aircraft lost, and the drops often inaccurate
- one such mission concluding with 960 canisters out of
a 1,000 falling into German hands. All hopes, it seemed,
rested on the Russians.
After six weeks of inaction Rokossovsky finally gave the go
ahead for a Polish force under General Berling to cross the
river and relieve the insurgents. The operation was a debacle,
and with heavy casualties and no headway made the assault
was called off. For the Russians, this single attempt at cross-
ing the Wisla was enough; Warsaw was on its own. Already
by this time the situation in Warsaws old town, defended by
8,000 Poles, had become untenable, and a daring escape
route was hatched through the sewers running under the
city. The Germans were now free to focus on wiping out
the remaining outposts of resistance, a task undertaken
with glee and armour. Six hundred millimetre shells were
landing on the centre every eight minutes, and casualties
were rising to alarming rates. Surrender negotiations were
initiated in early September, though it wasnt till the end of
the month - by which time all hope had been exhausted - that
they took a concrete shape. Abandoned by her allies the
Poles were forced to capitulate once more, some 63 days
after they had taken on the Reich. The battle is finished,
wrote a eulogy in the final edition of the Information Bulletin.
From the blood that has been shed, from the common toil
and misery, from the pains of our bodies and souls, a new
Poland will arise - free.
Luftwaffe v Warsaw
100
101
WARSAW UPRISING
Aftermath
Having deposited their weaponry at pre-designated sites,
11,668 Polish soldiers marched into German captivity,
defeated but proud. The battle had cost up to 200,000
civilian lives, while military casualties between Germans
and Poles would add a further 40,000 to the figure. Hitler
was ecstatic; with the Uprising out of the way his plan to
raze Warsaw could finally be realized. Remaining inhabit-
ants were exiled (though around 2,000 are believed to
have seen the liberation by hiding in the ruins), and the
Germans set about obliterating what was left of the city.
No stone can remain standing, warned Himmler, and what
happened next can only be described as the methodical
and calculated murder of a city. Buildings were numbered
according to their importance to Polish culture before being
dynamited by teams of engineers, while less historic areas
were simply burned to the ground. Nothing was spared
the iconoclasm, not even trees. I have seen many towns
destroyed, exclaimed General Eisenhower after the war,
But nowhere have I been faced with such destruction.
Modern studi es esti mate the cost of damage at around
fi fty four bi l l i on dol l ars. I n human terms Pol and l ost
much more. Wi th the Upri si ng di ed a gol den generati on,
the very foundati on a new post-war Pol and coul d bui l d
on. Those veterans who sur vi ved were treated wi th
suspi ci on and disdai n by the newl y i nstall ed communist
government, others were persecuted for percei ved
wester n sympat hi es. Post- war Sovi et show t ri al s
convi cted 13 l eaders of the Upri si ng for anti -Sovi et
acti ons, and thereafter the Upri si ng was condemned
as a fol l y to serve the bourgeoi s ends of the Pol i sh
government-i n-exi l e. Today, fi nal l y, the event that has
come to defi ne the spi ri t of Warsaw, has been awarded
the recogni ti on i t deserves.
Freedom came out against slavery. The flame of the
Uprising remained in peoples hearts and souls. It was
passed on by the baton of the generations. The spirit
proved indestructible and immortal. Soldiers of the
Rising. You did not die in vain.
Lech Walesa, 1994
Berling Statue H-3, Wa Miedzeszyski. Zygmunt
Berling is best remembered as the commander of the 1st
Polish Army during WWII, a role that saw him honoured with
his own statue in 1985. Designed by Kazimierz Danilewicz
his white marble monument frequentl y falls foul of the
vandals, and its not uncommon to see Berlings hands
daubed with blood red paint. Thats on account of Berlings
associations with the USSR; the 1st Polish Army was little
more than a puppet wing of Stalins forces, and Berlings
perceived inaction during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising still
rankles a great many Poles.
Bielaski Bank B-2, ul. Bielaska 10. Few remnants
of the Uprising are more conspicuous than the hulking
shell on ul. Bielaska. Its got quite a history. The site was
originally home to a mint, but that found itsel f demolished
to make way for the Warsaw division of the Imperial Bank
of Russia. Designed by Leontij Nikoajewicz Benois, a rec-
tor of the Fine Arts Academy in St Petersburg, construction
began in 1907 and went on for a further four years. Within
another four years the Russians had left, the collapse
of the Empire seeing all Tsarist subjects head back east
with their tails between their legs. The Poles took over
the building, first employing it as the National Treasury,
then establishing it as the headquarters of Bank Polski in
1926. The structure became a key strategic target during
the Warsaw Uprising, and on capture served as a base for
Polish insurgents. Smashed to pieces by German bombs
the building was left to rot in the decades that followed.
Originally slated to house the Warsaw Uprising Museum,
the bank was subject to legal wrangles that saw that idea
bite the dust. Now Belgian property developer Ghelamco is
redeveloping the site as an office complex that will open
in mid-2012. According to plans the six-floor building will
expose parts of the walls of the ancient mint.
Execution Sites. The fal l of communi sm brought
wi th i t a huge desi re to commemorate the Upri si ng,
whi ch had hi ther to been l argel y erased from Pol i sh
hi stor y by anti -nati onal i st communi st censors. Now
memori al pl aques and tabl ets abound around Warsaw
and though they tend to be i n Pol i sh onl y, i t doesn t
take l ong to get the hang of them; on the whol e theyl l
di spl ay the date and number of peopl e executed by
the Nazi s.
Monument to the Warsaw Uprising (Pom-
ni k Powst ani a War szawski ego) B- 2, Pl .
Krasiskich. I t was onl y wi th the regi me cl ose to
col l apse that thi s unconventi onal, not to say contro-
versi al monument was unvei l ed. Compl eted i n 1989
and desi gned by Wi ncent Kucma, i t depi cts a group
of i nsurgents i n battl e, and another facti on retreati ng
i nto the sewers.
Warsaw Uprising Museum (Muzeum Powsta-
nia Warszawskiego) D-3, ul. Grzybowska 79, tel.
(+48) 22 539 79 33, www.1944.pl. Opened in 2004,
this remains one of Polands best museums. Packed with
interactive displays, photographs, video footage and
miscellaneous exhibits its a museum thats guaranteed
to leave a mark on all visitors. Occupying a former tram
power station the 2,000m2 space is split over several
levels, leading visitors through the chronological story of
the Uprising (provided they dont make any wrong turns,
alas, a common mistake).
Start off by learning about life under Nazi rule, your tour
accompanied by the background rattle of machine guns,
dive bombers and a thumping heartbeat. Different halls
focus on the many aspects of the Uprising; walk through
a replica radio station, or a covert printing press.
The mezzanine level features film detailing the first month
of battle, before which visitors get to clamber through a
mock sewer. The final sections are devoted to the cre-
ation of a Soviet puppet state, a hall of remembrance,
and a particularly poignant display about the destruction
of the city; take time to watch the black and white before
and after shots of important Warsaw landmarks being
systematically obliterated by the Nazis as punishment.
Near the exit check out the film City of Ruins, a silence-
inducing 5 minute 3-D aerial film which took 2 years
to make and used old pictures and new technology to
recreate a picture of the desolation of liberated Warsaw
in March 1945.
There is also an exact replica of a B24 Allied plane once
used to make supply drops over the besieged city. A view-
ing platform and peace garden wrap up this high impact
experience Q Open 08:00 - 18:00, Thu 08:00 - 20:00,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Admission 14/10z
(children under 7 free). Mon free. Audio guides for 10z
per person. Film costs 2z per person. Y
Uprising Museum
Skaryszewski Park H-2. While the allied air lift to aid the
Uprising proved a disaster, the heroism of the Commonwealth
and Polish pilots who flew missions to relieve Warsaw cannot
be called into question. Standing in Skaryszewski Park on
Warsaws east bank is a memorial to commemorate these air-
men. It was here that a Liberator plane crash landed in 1944,
killing all but one of the seven crew on board. The sole survivor,
Henry Lloyd Lyne, unveiled the monument in 1988, and today
it is the sight of the British Embassys annual Remembrance
service. In 2000 Lloyd Lyne, a retired farmer, was presented
with a recovered piece of the plane by Queen Elizabeth II.
The Little Insurgent Monument (Pomnik Maego
Powstaca) B-2, ul. Podwale. The communist authori-
ties continually thwarted efforts to commemorate the Up-
rising, though by the early 80s cracks in their resolve were
beginning to show. On October 1, 1983, the most poignant
of all Uprising monuments was unveiled by the walls of the
Barbakan. Designed by Jerzy Jarnuszkiewicz and funded by
collections undertaken by scouts, the bronze installation
shows the figure of a boy soldier clutching a Sten gun and
weighed down by an adult-sized helmet. Commemorating the
children who served as messengers and frontline troops, the
figure is inspired by the story of 13 year old corporal Antek,
himself killed in action close to the scene on August 8, 1944.
Wol a Massacre Statue (Pomni k Pami ci
Ludnoci Woli Wymordowanej w Czasie Powsta-
nia 1944) D-2, Pl. Solidarnoci. No other event captures
the brutality of the Uprising better than the Wola Massacre.
Between August 5 and August 6 the Nazis embarked on a
savage bloodletting in an attempt to batter the Poles into
submission. Led by Heinz Reinfarth and Oskar Dirlewanger, a
despicable man with a history of sex crimes against minors,
German units executed approximately 40,000 civilians in
the Wola area of Warsaw. The massacre only came to a
halt when Hitler himself intervened and declared all civilians
be sent to concentration camps instead. While Dirlewanger
was beaten to death by Poles after the war, Reinfarth and
countless others evaded justice. The senseless slaughter
is commemorated by an impressive monument dating from
2006, designed by Ryszard Stryjecki and found practically
opposite the Ibis hotel on Solidarnoci.
WARSAW UPRISING
Pasta B-3, ul. Zielna 37, www.pastadlamiasta.pl. A real
city landmark, and unmistakable thanks to the great big red
and white P attached to its roof. That P was a favoured sign
of the insurgents, and the buildings importance to the Rising
should not be underestimated. Built between 1904 and 1910
this weird tower like structure - ramparts et al - operated as a
telecommunications centre, a function it continued to serve
under the Nazis. Heavily defended by bunkers and guard
posts it was besieged for twenty two days by the Kilinski
battalion of the Home Army before finally surrendering on the
22nd. In 2000 Prime Minister Jerzy Buzek handed steward-
ship of the building to a combatants association, and today,
among numerous other functions, the ground floors are home
to the recommended Na Zielnej restaurant.
Prudential Tower B-3, ul. witokrzyska. The first build-
ing in Warsaw to surpass fifteen floors. Built using 1,250,000
bricks Warsaws first true skyscraper became a major point
of attack on opening day of the Rising, the symbolic meaning
of a Polish flag on Polands tallest structure not lost on the
insurgents. The Nazis shelled it heavily, and though it was
gutted its prototype steel skeleton refused to topple. After the
war the tower was given a thinner look, and for decades oper-
ated as the Hotel Warszawa. Closed in 2003, and currently in
various stages of reconstruction courtesy of the Likus Group,
the tower is due to be given a refit and new lease on life as
both a hotel and top-class apartment block.
Ruins of the Rising. Between 1939 and 1944 over 84
percent of Warsaw was completely destroyed, with the city
centre bearing the brunt of the damage. In spite of the Herculean
rebuilding work that has since taken place, bullet scarred walls
on pre-war tenements can still be found in relative abundance
round the few parts of the centre that escaped total destruc-
tion. Perhaps most obvious of all is the building on ul. Walicw,
featuring shell-pocked facades and a wall half-tumbling down.
Sapper Monument (Pomnik Chwaa Saperom)
H-3, Park Marszaka Edwarda migego-Rydza. De-
signed by Stanisaw Kulon and unveiled on May 8th, 1975,
the monument to the sappers is a typically formidable
piece of 70s brutalism. Designed to evoke the explosive
blast of a landmine this seventeen metre high monstrosity
commemorates the sappers who died defusing mines and
booby traps in the years after the war. Free Warsaw will
never forget those who, with their pain and blood, started
the work on her reconstruction reads the accompanying
plaque. The names and units of the sappers who died are
listed on the pylons, as well as Polish-language descriptions
of the hazardous work they undertook.
Old Town Square, 1945
Warsaw Uprising: Aug 1 - October 3
102
103
JEWISH WARSAW JEWISH WARSAW
At the time Hitler chose to expand Germanys territories
under the odious excuse of providing living space for the
German people, Warsaws Jewish population numbered
350,000 and growing. Neither pogroms nor the occasional
boycott of Jewish businesses deterred Jews from settling
in the Polish capital and only New York could boast a larger
Jewish community. Yet within six years Warsaws thriving
Jewish scene was all but wiped from the map, with over
90 percent perishing either in the Ghetto that or the gas
chambers of Treblinka.
Although anti-Semitism was by no means rare Poland was
seen as a relative safe haven, and it drew settlers forced
into flight by more discriminatory regimes elsewhere. By the
inter-war years the Jewish population had made significant
contributions to the social, political and cultural fabric of
Poland, a contribution that would eventually be extinguished
by the monstrous racial policies of the Nazis. When Warsaw
fell following a brief yet brutal siege the citys ancient Jewish
population was damned to destruction. By 1940 Jews were
forcibly penned into an area that already housed most of
the Jewish population. On March 27, 1940, the Judenrat, a
Jewish council answerable to the Nazis whims, was ordered
to build a wall around the ghetto and a resettlement deadline
of October 15 was handed to the citys Jews. Failure to move
into the assigned area was punishable by death. Spanning
18 kilometres and enclosing 73 of Warsaws 1,800 streets,
the area was carved into a small and large ghetto, the two
linked by a wooden bridge standing over ul. Chodna (E-2).
Today an installation titled Footbridge of Memory stands at
this spot, with optical fibers illuminating the former handrails
over the street at night.
From the beginning conditions in the city were harsh; recov-
ered Nazi files show that while ethnic Germans were granted
a food allowance totalling 2,613 calories per day, Jews and
other groups deemed sub-human were expected to survive
on 184 calories. Unsurprisingly a black market supported by
a smuggling network ran rife, with some 80 percent of the
food in the ghetto supplied through illegal means. Still it was
not enough and as the noose tightened starvation became
the principal enemy. In 1941 over 100,000 died in this way,
their bodies often left to rot in the streets. Of the 800 ghettos
scattered around the Third Reich Warsaw was the largest
and also the deadliest. At its zenith approximately 380,000
residents found themselves squashed into the ghetto, with
an average of eight people to a room. Yet amid this sea of
suffering a remarkable social scene flourished, as proved
by the meticulous ghetto diaries kept by Emanuel Ringel-
blum. Although murdered by the Nazis in 1944 Ringelblum,
an intellectual and social activist, kept volumes of notes
documenting the day-to-day life of ghetto inhabitants. It is
from his painstaking notes we learn of the soup kitchens and
charities that existed, of the musical concerts and cabarets
and the fifty or so underground newspapers that circulated
amongst the masses.
The illusion of a self-contained cruel but surviving parallel
world was shattered in 1942 when the Wansee Conference
rubber-stamped plans for the final solution to the Jewish
question and the first deportations to death camps began
in July. Over the next few weeks around 265,000 Jews were
harried to a waiting area known as Umschlagplatz, from
which they were loaded into cattle wagons destined for the
Treblinka gas chambers. A year later a new action to thin
the ghetto was launched, and by April 1943 a final push
to completely liquidate the biggest ghetto began. For too
long the Jews had been limited to passive resistance, but
now with rumours circulating about death camps a band of
ill-equipped insurgents faced up to the full weight of the Nazi
military machine. Led by Mordechaj Anielewicz, the Jewish
Fighting Organization (OB) launched the Ghetto Uprising on
April 19, 1943. Numbering a few hundred the Jewish fighters
continued their dogged resistance, but faced with heavy artil-
lery and even Stuka Dive Bombers it was a doomed struggle.
Vicious street-to-street, house-to-house battles ensued, with
insurgents often burnt out of their boltholes by flamethrowers
and gas. On May 8 German forces surrounded the principal
command post of the rebels on ul. Mia 18 and rather than
face capture Anielewicz and his cabal opted for mass suicide.
By May 16 the Uprising was over, with German commander
Jurgen Stroop announcing, The former Jewish quarter of
Warsaw is no longer in existence. With the fighting over the
rest of the ghetto was levelled, and its inmates either sent
to Treblinka or assigned to Gsiwka (ul. Gsia), a small
concentration camp. It is estimated that some 15,000 Jews
survived the war hiding out on the Aryan side, but with the
war over and the vitriolic anti-Zionist policies of the post-war
government the majority sought a new life in Israel. Today
Warsaws Jewish population is estimated to stand at 2,000
and efforts are underway to gradually reintroduce the citys
hollowed out Jewish culture.
Heroes in Horror
Sometimes it takes tragedy to create heroes. This is never
truer than with the Holocaust, a black time where Nazi terror
was answered with dignity and courage. Anti-Semitism was
common in pre-war Poland (in fact so clear was this divide
that the inter-war years saw seated segregation in such grand
institutions as the local university) and under Nazi occupation
collaboration was commonplace - denouncing Jews and re-
vealing hiding places brought considerable financial reward.
Worse still, there were several instances of Poles actively
taking part in pogroms and Jew hunts, the most notorious
occurring in the town of Jedwabne in 1941. It was here on
the 10th of July that a mob of Poles rounded up nearly 400
Jews and marching them to a barn which was subsequently
torched. Its a shameful episode in Polish history, and one
immortalized in Jan Grosss book Neighbours. Neverthe-
less, such events should be offset by stories of those who
risked life and limb to help the persecuted. Poland was at
the forefront of Nazi terror, and the punishment for shelter-
ing Jews was death. The policy was unique in the occupied
territories, and ruthlessly enforced. Even so, it is estimated
that over three million Poles actively helped Jews to survive
and Yad Vashem has recognized over 6,000 Poles as being
Righteous Among Nations - more than in any other country.
In Rozwadow Dr.Eugeniusz Lazowski, a graduate of Warsaw
University, is credited with saving approximately 8,000 Jews after
putting his medical knowledge to use. Having injected the towns
Jews with a benign form of typhus he then informed the Nazis
that an epidemic was at large. Terrified that it would spread, the
Nazis quarantined the town and left it to its own devices. Known
as the Polish Schindler, Lazowski saved 12 ghetto communi-
ties in this crafty manner. I was not able to fight with a gun or
a sword, Lazowski said. But I was able to find a way to scare
the Germans. In Krakow a gentile pharmacist named Tadeusz
Pankiewicz was given special dispensation to remain in the ghetto
and exploited this to lend aid to the Jews. Medicine and vaccines
were distributed for free, and his pharmacy - now a museum -
came to double as a centre of underground activity. Regarded
as a hero, Pankiewiczs role in the Holocaust is remembered in
Thomas Kenneallys epic Schindlers List.
Another doctor, Irena Sendler, is credited with rescuing over
2,500 Jews from the Warsaw ghetto. Born in 1910, Sendler had
a long history of sympathising with the plight of the Jews and
was suspended for three years from Warsaw University after
voicing her vociferous opposition to segregated benches and
was active in the underground the moment the war broke out.
Aided by her colleagues she forged over 3,000 documents to
help Jewish families, and later headed the childrens section of
Zegota - a secret organization that was a Council to Aid Jews.
Using the fierce-looking court building on Solidarnosci as her
bridge from the ghetto to freedom she smuggled countless
children inside parcels and boxes. The children were then sent
to live in convents and rectories, but not before she recorded
their identities in a glass jar she kept buried at home. Her actions
aroused the attention of the Gestapo, and in 1943 she was
arrested, tortured and sentenced to death. A bribe from Zegota
saved her life, but nonetheless she was left unconscious in a
forest, with both her arms and legs broken. She was officially
declared dead by the Germans, and spent the rest of the war in
hiding. But even peace brought no respite; she was persecuted
by the communist authorities on account of her wartime rela-
tions with the exiled government, and faced constant harass-
ment. In 2003 Pope John Paul II sent her a letter praising her
for courage, and later that year she was awarded the Order of
the White Eagle - Polands highest civilian decoration. She died
in 2008, though even now remains a target of hate for some; in
July 2010 her grave was vandalized with the words Jews Out.
Finally, Jan Karski is remembered in the history books as the man
who tried to stop the Holocaust. Born in Lodz in 1914, Karskis
photographic memory and fluent command of foreign languages
caught the attention of the Polish diplomatic services, landing him
prestigious posts abroad. With Europe gearing up for war Karski
joined the horse artillery, with his unit captured by the Red Army.
Karski avoided death in the forests of Katyn when he escaped
from a train transporting him to a POW camp and headed to
Warsaw to join the Polish underground. Realizing the value of his
remarkable memory his superiors employed Karski as a courier, a
perilous position that involved crossing frontlines in order to swap
information with allies. One such foray saw him captured by the
Gestapo while crossing the Slovakian Tatra Mountains. He slit
his wrists following an intense bout of torture, and was locked in
a closely guarded hospital in Nowy Sacz. Determined not to lose
their star courier a crack team of Polish troops broke him out and
Karski resumed his duties. In 1942 he was chosen to undertake
a daring mission to meet Wladyslaw Sikorski - Prime Minister of
Polands government-in-exile - in London, the purpose being to
reveal the extent of German atrocities in occupied Poland. To
gather information he was smuggled into the Warsaw ghetto
and given a graphic tour of the hunger and horror manifesting
behind the walls. The experience proved so powerful that Karski
later found himself questioning his own memory and decided a
second visit was in order to convince him that what he had seen
was real. This time, disguised as a Ukrainian guard, he infiltrated
a transit camp in Izbica and witnessed random brutalities as well
as cattle wagon transports leading Jews to the gas chambers. He
successfully made it to England and was granted an audience with
foreign secretary Antony Eden as well as Sikorski and the leader
of the Jewish Bun. Maddeningly, his testimonies fell on deaf ears.
In the following decades his attempt to stop the Holocaust was
allowed to gather dust, and only came to public attention with
the release of the 1978 epic film Shoah. He died in 2000, eight
years after his Jewish/Polish wife, herself a Holocaust survivor,
committed suicide.
I can still see their faces (I cigle widz ich twar-
ze) B-3, ul. Prna. The Holocaust and the subsequent
destruction of Warsaw in WWII erased virtually all remnants
of the bustling pre-war Jewish communitys presence in the
city, but there is one place where it is still possible to sense
this lost age. There are two rows of dilapidated tenement
houses dating from 1880-1900 on ul. Prna (B-3) showing
what Warsaw must have looked like, and adding to this is a
series of giant posters hanging outside the buildings that
depict members of the disappeared Jewish community.
These photos are there thanks to a project called I cigle
widz ich twarze (I can still see their faces) which was created
by Goda Tencer, a Polish actress with Jewish origins who is
the founder and director of the Shalom Foundation. In 1994
she appealed to people to send in photographs of Polish
Jews so that an exhibition could be created commemorating
those who died. The incredible response netted over 9,000
photographs, some from survivors and their families, some
from Polish neighbours or friends of those killed. Then in
2008 the I can still see their faces exhibition was mounted
in ul. Prna as part of the commemorations of the 65th an-
niversary of the Ghetto Uprising. The effect is quite stunning,
particularly when you consider this street was once bustling
with life, full of traders, stores and Jewish families. Located
in the heart of a now modern city, this really is a place worth
a moment of your time, especially since the tenements are
set to be demolished soon as part of major renovations to the
street (one side of the building has already seen the photos
removed, but the other side remains intact).
I can still see their faces
Collection of Shalom Foundation by Goda Tencer - Szurmiej
Collection of Shalom Foundation by Goda Tencer -
Szurmiej
104
105
TREBLINKA JEWISH WARSAW
What to See
A Footbridge of Memory D-2, Intersection of ul.
Chodna and ul. elazna. One of the most recognisable
images of the Warsaw Ghetto is that of the footbridge
constructed over ul. Chodna to connect the large and small
ghettos. To commemorate that spot is one of Warsaws
newest memorials: a pair of metal poles connected via
optical fibers which, after the sun sets, project the shape of
the footbridge over the road via light. Designed by Tomasz
Tusch-Lec and installed in September 2011, the memorial
also has viewing windows inside the poles where visitors can
flip through images of life in the Warsaw Ghetto.
Jewish Cemetery (Cmentarz ydowski) D-1, ul.
Okopowa 49/51, tel. (+48) 22 838 26 22, www.beisol-
am.jewish.org.pl. A beautiful and poignant place to visit.
The cemetery was originally founded in 1806 and currently
houses around 250,000 tombs. Amongst those buried here
are Ludwik Zamenhof, inventor of the international language
Esperanto. Q In October open 10:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 -
13:00, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat. In November hours
remain the same except the cemetery closes weekdays at
dusk. Admission 8z.
Jewish Historical Institute (ydowski Instytut
Historyczny im. Emanuela Ringelbluma) B-2, ul.
Tomackie 3/5, tel. (+48) 22 827 92 21, www.jhi.pl.
A chilling recollection of Polish Jewry and the only institution
in Poland focusing entirely on the study of the history and
culture of the Polish Jews. This amazing building houses
permanent and temporary exhibits relating to secular and
religious Jewish life in the country from its beginnings to the
annihilation during WWII and beyond. As well as an excellent
bookshop, the institutes museum, opened in 1948, features
a large interactive display in the entrance hall that allows its
users to find out about Jewish life in any part of the country, an
extraordinary Warsaw Ghetto exhibition, religious treasures,
an archive and a small cinema. Particularly poignant is the
collection of photographs taken in the Warsaw Ghetto by Heinz
Jost, a German innkeeper who served in the German army and
whose photographs speak volumes about the era. Essential
visiting. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat.
Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 10/5z. Y
Jewish Museum (Muzeum Historii ydw Pols-
kich) C-3, ul. Warecka 4/6 (entrance from ul. Kubusia
Puchatka), tel. (+48) 22 471 03 00, www.jewishmuseum.
org.pl. This place promises to be one of the citys biggest and
best museums when it opens in October 2013. Currently being
built at vast expense in what was the Jewish Ghetto during World
War II, the museum will tell the story of Jews in Poland, and will
also serve as a centre for geneology, making the tracing of
relatives easier than ever before. A recent donation of 20 million
zlotys from Polands wealthiest citizen, oil mogul Jan Kulczyk, is
earmarked for the creation of the museums vast permanent
exhibition. Note that this address is the museums office, not
the future location of the museum. For up-to-date information
visit their website and Facebook page.
Monument to the Ghetto Heroes (Pomnik Bohat-
erw Getta) A-1, ul. Zamenhofa. Designed by Natan
Rappaport, the monument pays tribute to the heroes of the
Ghetto Uprising of 1943. Found between (E-1) ul. Anielewicza,
Zamenhofa, Lewartowskiego and Karmelicka it is here that
the heaviest fighting took place. In an ironic quirk, the stone
cladding on the monument was originally ordered from
Sweden by Hitler for a victory arch.
Noyk Synagogue (Synagoga Noykw) E-3, ul.
Twarda 6, tel. (+48) 22 620 43 24, www.warszawa.
jewish.org.pl. Built between 1898 and 1902 in a neo-
Romanesque style, this was the only Warsaw synagogue to
survive the ravages of war. It was fully restored between 1977
and 1983. Now open for worship. Q Open 09:00 - 19:00,
Fri 09:00 - 15:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat. No visiting
during services. Groups of more than ten should reserve in
advance. Admission 6z.
Traces of the Ghetto. Following the Ghetto Uprising the
whole area was levelled so few traces remain. If you duck into
the courtyard at (E-3) ul. Sienna 55 you will see a remaining
part of the ghetto wall complete with a commemorative
plaque. Somewhat impressively, the local government have
decided to honour Warsaws Holocaust history by introducing
a ghetto trail. Developed with the help of the Jewish Histori-
cal Institute the route has seen the boundary of the former
Ghetto outlined on pavements, as well as the appearance
of 21 dual language information boards positioned in places
of particular interest. Maps of the ghetto are available from
the Jewish Historical Institute for 10zl.
Umschlagplatz E-1. Found on ul. Stawki (E-1), close to
the intersection with ul. Dzika, Umschlagplatz is a bleak,
slightly disappointing monument marking the spot where
around 300,000 Jews were loaded on cattle wagons bound
for Treblinka. The Nazi commandant in charge of the deporta-
tions lived directly opposite on ul. Stawki 5/7. Lying between
Umschlagplatz and the Monument to the Ghetto Heroes lies
the legendary monument labelled Mia 18 (note: this is not
the address where you can find the monument). Essentially
no more than a symbolic grassy knoll, it marks the spot from
where the Ghetto Uprising was directed.
Willy Brandt Statue A-2, Skwer Willy Brandta. On
December 7, 1970 images were flashed across the world
of German Chancellor Willy Brandt knelt in pensive apol-
ogy in front of Warsaws Monument to the Ghetto Heroes.
Popularly known as the kniefall the spontaneous gesture
was to become a symbol of reconciliation between east
and west, with Brandt later confessing, Under the weight
of German history, and carrying the burden of the millions
who were murdered, I did what people do when words fail
them. A monument commemorating his landmark act was
unveiled 30 years later in the north east corner of the park
that houses the Monument to the Ghetto Heroes. Made
of brick, and featuring a brass relief designed by Wiktoria
Czechowska Antoniewska, the monument was unveiled
by a delegation that included Brandts widow, Danzig-born
author Gunter Grass, Chancellor Gerhard Schroeder and
Polish Prime Minister Jerzy Buzek. The square in which it
is located has also since been named in honour of Brandt.
For the overwhelming majority of Warsaws wartime Jews
their journey was destined to end in one place, a hitherto
unknown village called Treblinka. Set 100 kilometres north
west of Warsaw this small rural community would find itself
unwittingly thrust into the eye of the Holocaust, its name
forever etched in mankinds roll of shame.
Getting There
Treblinka remains a backwater town, and as such travellers
are going struggle to reach it. Put simply, either hire a car
and fire up the GPS, or contact one of the Warsaw-based
tour companies listed in the Sightseeing section who will be
happy to tailor a visit for you. Alternatively, hire a six person
minibus for 250z - call 604 89 63 97 for further details.
History
Split into two separate sections, Treblinka I and Treblinka II,
Treblinka I was originally established in the summer of 1941
and functioned as a Polish slave labour camp. Treblinka II,
the death camp, opened the following year, receiving its
first human cargo on July 22, 1942. It was designed for the
sole purpose of murder, a function it fulfilled well. Measuring
400 by 600 metres and surrounded with barbed wire fences
and watchtowers, the camp was carefully blended into the
heavily wooded landscape in an effort to mask its existence.
Consisting of a barracks, an armoury and storage areas, the
camp also had a fenced off living area housing 1,000 Jews
employed to clear bodies, hammer out teeth and shave
hair. It was also home to the reception area, where cattle
wagons loaded with Jews would screech to a halt. Built to
resemble a legitimate train station, it was decorated with
clocks, timetables, posters and even an infirmary replete
with a Red Cross banner. In actual fact the infirmary was
no more than a sinister faade to an execution pit, used to
murder prisoners too weak to march to the gas chambers.
Having been stripped naked, arrivals at Treblinka I were
then herded up the tube, a fenced off path leading to the
shower block. It was here that prisoners were ushered into
gas chambers disguised as bathhouses. Carbon monoxide
would then be piped through showerheads, taking as long
as half an hour to asphyxiate those locked inside. At the
height of the killing process up to 20 railway carriages could
be processed within a period of one to two hours. At first
bodies were simply buried in mass graves but by 1943, in
an attempt to conceal all traces of genocide, corpses were
cremated on massive pyres.
Several escape attempts were launched by the permanent
staff of Jewish prisoners, with the biggest coming on August
2, 1943. Having obtained a key to the armoury, a core of
around 70 prisoners aimed to storm the Nazi barricades,
liberate the other prisoners and flee to the forests. The plan
was disrupted when an SS officer, Kurt Kuttner, noticed the
rebels raiding the munitions store. He was killed on the spot,
but the shots alerted the other guards who launched a swift
counter-action. In the brief but fierce gun battle that followed
many buildings were torched, but only a handful of prisoners
succeeded in escaping.
Following the uprising, and a similar one at Sobibor, Him-
mler took the decision to close down the Aktion Reinhard
death camps. By October 4, 1943 Treblinka was levelled,
reforested and a family of Ukrainian peasants re-settled
on the adjacent farmland. Al though i t is impossible to
place an accurate figure on the number of people slaugh-
tered, conservative estimates suggest that anything from
700,000 to 900,000 people were murdered during the
camps existence. Of the number of Jews who passed
through its gates it is thought that fewer than 100 lived to
see the end of the war.
Following the war several German and Ukrainian guards
were charged with crimes relating to their time at Treblinka.
Most escaped with light sentences ranging from three to
twelve years. The camp commander, Franz Stangl, fled to
Syria and from there to Brazil, until he was finally extradited
to face justice in 1970. He died in prison the following year,
apparently unrepentant.
What to See
What is there to see? Well, not much. The Nazis did a deft
job of erasing their crimes, and visitors will require a vivid
imagination so as to picture what was. Nevertheless, with
some prior knowledge your bumpy journey will be ultimately
rewarded; what Treblinka lacks in physical sites it makes up
for with sheer skin-prickling menace, and a trip out here is
sure to leave you pondering for some time.
Stock up on literature at the car park hut before making your
way to the small exhibition house. Set across two rooms
visitors will find a series of items recovered from the site -
torah scrolls, cutlery, coins and other keepsakes - as well
as a few period photographs illustrating li fe at the camp.
However, the real pull here is the scale model, an intricate
work which really brings the grounds to li fe - details here
include a zoo built for the enjoyment of the SS, a Disney-
styl e stone tower and the neatl y trimmed flower beds
past which Jews would have filed on their way to the gas
chambers. Its a fascinating work, and one which provides
plenty of pause for thought.
Back outside, a trail of symbolic train tracks show the
route trains from Warsaw woul d have foll owed before
finall y terminating at Treblinka platform. For the Jews
crammed inside the cattle wagons this represented the
last stop in their persecution. Then, directly up ahead,
comes the climax of the camp - marking the execution
grounds lie hundreds of jagged memorial stones, each
one inscribed wi th the name of a l ost communi ty. I ts
among these - to the left of your approach - youll find
the only stone dedicated to a person. That man is Janusz
Korczak, a pedagogue and author who famously turned
down safe passage from the ghetto in order to stay with
the orphaned chil dren entrusted in his care. His most
famous work is the childrens tale King Matt the First (Krl
Maciu Pierwszy), the adventure story of a young king.
As well as telling the story of how the young king deals
with the challenges of power in a bygone age, it is also a
thinly veiled representation of historical events in Poland
and describes a number of the social reforms the young
king introduces, many targeting children and many of which
Korczak himsel f introduced at his orphanage. While some
of the language might be considered politically incorrect
90 years on it is a fascinating book and one that children
today can still enjoy immensely.
Marking the site of the gas chamber stands an overpowering
monument designed by Franciszek Duszenki, a message in
front of it simply stating: Never Again. Its an eerie experi-
ence, and the sense of evil palpable. However, there is also
more. Unknown to many, a second camp also functioned
at Treblinka, a labour camp primarily populated by Poles.
Continuing through the route cut through the forest, a stony
path leads past a concrete guard bunker before culminating
at the vast gravel pit where up to 2,000 Poles were forced into
back breaking work. In the field further on concrete flooring
and some foundations mark the outline of former prisoner
barracks, while a number of crosses denote what was once
the execution grounds. Ultimately haunting, Treblinka is a
must see for anyone with a passing interest in modern his-
tory - absent are the endless exhibits of Auschwitz, yet even
without these this place has a high impact factor which will
leave visitors silent.
106
107
AZIENKI AZIENKI
Anyone who still thinks that Warsaw is a city of concrete and
cement has clearly never been to the citys lung, the incom-
parable azienki Park (G-4). Quite simply, this glorious, 17th
century park, spread over 74 hectares, is one of the jewels
in Polands crown, which might explain why half of Warsaw
chooses to spend its summer Sundays here. Fear not though,
for so big is azienki that it never gives the impression of be-
ing crowded, and even on the busiest of days you will always
be able to find a quiet, shady corner somewhere.
Belvedere Palace (Belweder) G-5, ul. Belwederska
56. Head next for the Belvedere Palace residence of the
Polish President from 1918 to 1995 (Presidents Aleksander
Kwani ewski and Lech Kaczyski opting to li ve in the
Presidential Palace on ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie) this is
once again the Warsaw residence of the Polish president
(now Bronisaw Komorowski). Built in 1694 but thoroughly
remodelled in 1818, the building is predictably off limits. For
the best views of the palace and some outstanding photo
opportunities you should look at it from Al. Ujazdowskie: it is
a wonder of Neo-Classical design, complete with tympanium
and oversized Corinthian columns.
Botanical Garden (Ogrd Botaniczny) G- 4, Al.
Ujazdowskie 4, tel. (+48) 22 553 05 11, www.ogrod.
uw.edu.pl. Part of the University of Warsaw the gardens
have the usual collection of greenhouses with exotic, weird
and wonderful species from all over the world, but what
brings in the crowds during the summer are the stunning
rose gardens just behind the main entrance. A riot of colour
when in full bloom the gardens are the preferred subject
matter of the students from the nearby art college who set
up their easels and paints early and stay until the guards
ki ck them out at sunset. I ndeed, gi ven such cracki ng
scenery it is tempting to find a bench and do the same.
Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Last entrance one hour before
closing. Admission 6/3z.
Chopin Monument & Temple of Sibyl (Pomnik
Chopina i witynia Diany) G-4. On entering the park
proper, make your first port of call the Chopin Monument,
sculpted by Witold Szymanowski and unveiled in 1926. It
depicts Chopin sitting right here in azienki, next to a willow
tree. The original sculpture was destroyed during WWII,
and the one we admire today went up in 1958. During
the summer impressive concerts take place around the
statue almost every Sunday. Almost hidden in the trees
a few metres from Chopin is the astonishing Temple of
the Sibyl (closed to the public), an 1820s replica Greek
Temple built entirely of wood. Look out too for a gaggle
of other little buildings here such as the Hermitage, the
Egyptian Temple and the Water Tower. None are currently
open to the public.
azienki Park (Park azienkowski) G-4, ul. Agrykoli
1, tel. (+48) 22 506 01 01, www.lazienki-krolewskie.
pl. The name azienki means baths and is derived from the
parks centrepiece and best-known attraction, the Palace on
the Island. The palace was originally built in the 17th century
as a private bathhouse for Stanisaw Herakliusz Lubomirski,
owner of the adjacent Ujazdw Castle and much of the sur-
rounding land (and much of Poland, come to mention it). The
bathhouse was bought by the last king of Poland, Stanisaw
August Poniatowski, in 1772 and converted into a private
residence (and taking the name Palace on the Island). It
was at this time that the grounds were formally laid out as
a private garden, most of the landscaping being carried out
to the designs of Karol Ludwig Agricola and Karol Schultz.
Today dotted with many palaces (big and small), summer
houses, pavilions, mansions, cafes, restaurants, lakes and
theatres, azienki offers much to see and to make the best
of it you should plan to spend a full day here.

One word of warning however before you pack a picnic and
the cricket set: azienki, for all its charms, is further evidence
of the fact that many Central Europeans have never quite
grasped the idea of what parks are actually for. With superbly
kept grass at every turn, perfect for picnics, pick up games of
cricket, softball, football or whatever else it is people get up
to in parks in the western world, azienki takes a very stern
look but dont touch attitude when it comes to its lawns. If
you dont believe us, try sitting on a azienki lawn and see
what happens. That said, the park has recently added two
zones where youre allowed to have a picnic. Progress! Q
Open from dawn till dusk.
Museum of Hunting and Horsemanship (Muzeum
owiectwa i Jedziectwa) H-4, ul. Szwoleerw 9,
tel. (+48) 22 522 66 30, www.muzeum.warszawa.pl.
North of the Palace on the Island, the Museum of Hunting &
Horsemanship is worth a quick visit. QOpen 10:00 - 15:00.
Closed Mon, Tue. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.
Admission 3-8/2-5z. Thu free. Y
Mylewicki Palace (Paac Mylewicki) H-4, ul.
Agrykoli 1, tel. (+48) 22 506 01 01, www.lazienki-
krolewskie.pl. Make sure you have time too for a guided
tour of the magnificent, semi-circular and recently restored
Mylewicki Palace. The residence of the kings nephew, Jzef
Poniatowski, the palace is very much as was complete with
original murals, furniture and art. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 6/4z. Thu free. Guided tours in
English 70z per group.
Palace on the Island (Paac na Wyspie) G-4, ul.
Agrykoli 1, tel. (+48) 22 506 01 01, www.lazienki-
krolewskie.pl. The Palace on the Island is azienkis raison
detre. The palace - completed in 1683 to designs by Tylman
Gamerski - was originally a bathhouse, converted into a
residence in the late 1700s (after being bought by Stanisaw
August Poniatowski). The palace is built on an artificial island
that divides the lake into two parts, and is connected to the
surrounding park by two colonnaded bridges. The faades are
unified by giant Corinthian pilasters that link its two floors and
are crowned by a balustrade that bears statues of mythologi-
cal figures. The northern faade is relieved by a striking central
portico, while the southern faades deep central recess lies
behind a screen of Corinthian columns. Today a museum,
almost all of the palace can be visited, including the main
reception room, Solomons Hall, decorated in the most ex-
travagant of Baroque styles with a series of paintings depicting
the History of Solomon. They were executed for King Stanisaw
Augustus in 1791-93 by Marcello Bacciarelli and depicted
the monarch himself as the biblical king. Many of the kings
personal rooms are also open to the public, set in their original
context. To get the best out of the palace we recommend tak-
ing one of the excellent guided tours (call ahead to book such
a tour). QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Tue, Wed, Sun 09:00 - 16:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 15/10z. Thu free. Guides 100z per
group up to 25 people. To arrange guide call 22 50 60 028.
Theatre on the Island (Amfiteatr) G-4. Crossing the
tail of the serpentine lake, follow the path that leads along the
embankment until you hit the Amphitheatre, also known as
the Theatre on the Island. Built to resemble the amphitheatre
at Herculaneum, the theatre hosts productions throughout
the summer, though unless you fancy seeing Henry V in Polish
these will hold little interest for foreign visitors. (There are
exceptions: ballet and contemporary dance sometimes get
put on here). It is enough just to admire the setting before
heading for one of the kitsch (one features an enormous
swan) but irresistible gondolas that ferry up and down the
lake during the warmer days (gondolas available weather
permitting this fall). A short trip costs 8/6z per person,
and trips depart throughout the day - you may have to wait
for the boat to fill up before the gondolier sets off however.
Ujazdowski Castle (Museum Of Modern Art/CSW)
(Centrum Sztuki Wspczesnej Zamek Ujazdows-
ki) G-4, ul. Jazdw 2, tel. (+48) 22 628 64 08, www.
csw.art.pl. A castle of some description has been on found
on this site since the time of the Masovian Dukes (1300s),
but the Ujazdowski Castle we see today was completed in a
baroque style in 1730 for Stanisaw Herakliusz Lubomirski
(it was his bathhouse that later became the Palace on the
Island and gave azienki park its name). Ujazdowski survived
two centuries before being gutted by fire during WWII, and
was indeed lucky to escape total destruction: the retreating
Nazis actually tried to blow it to pieces, as they did a number of
azienkis finest buildings. But - as is so often the case - what
the Nazis couldnt do the communists could, and though the
original walls and foundations remained structurally sound in
the 1950s Polands communist authorities decided to tear
down the shell of the building and place a military theatre on
the site. Common sense prevailed however, and the 1970s
saw Ujazdowski rebuilt to its original plans. It today plays
host to three large exhibition halls dedicated to showcasing
the very best of contemporary art inside; find a wild mix of
the good, the bad and the ugly, featuring the work of Polands
leading contemporary artists here. Worthy and undoubtedly
necessary, the gallery also houses a very good bookshop and
a caf, which has a terrace whose views over the park, Warsaw
and what appears to be half of Poland are jaw dropping. One
not to miss. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00. Closed
Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission
12/6z, Thu free.
White House & Orangery (Biay Dom i Stara
Pomaraczarnia) G-4, ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. (+48) 22
506 01 01, www.lazienki-krolewskie.pl. Not quite as
grand as the Belvedere but equally impressive is the little
White House a gorgeous summer house built in 1774 for
the kings sisters which displays a fine collection of period
furniture and decorations (will most likely be closed during
the winter season). A few steps away is the impressive Old
Orangery, one of very few surviving court theatres in the
world. It dates from 1774 and is still used today to host
chamber concerts, as well as being a popular wedding venue
for Warsaws wealthy. Part of the building houses a museum
of sculpture. From here head back past the White House,
resist the temptation to head straight for the Palace on the
Island and instead head south, towards the New Orangery.
Built in cast iron and glass it was designed by Jzef Orowski
and opened in 1861. It is home to the upmarket Belvedere
restaurant. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission
10/5z. Thu free. Guided tours in English 70z per group.
Where to eat
Belvedere G- 5, ul. Agrykoli 1 (New Orangery in
azienki Park, enter from ul. Parkowa). See Restaurants.
Any number of buses stop in front of the parks three
main entrances, on Al. Ujazdowskie, including Nos.
116, 166, 180 and 195. From the city centre however
perhaps the easiest way of reaching azienki is to take
a tram from Centrum to Pl. Unii Lubelskiej, and walk 100
metres along Bagatela to the parks southern entrance,
in front of the Belvedere Palace. Orientation around the
park is relatively easy given the prominent placement of
maps and signs - in Polish and English - in key locations.
There is also a very good azienki complex map (again,
in Polish and English) which can be picked up for free from
the Palace on the Water or any of the museums in the
park. If you enter the park via any of the entrances on
Al. Ujazdowskie, chances are you will end up, willingly or
not, via some surprisingly hilly paths set with tall trees,
at the vast artificial lake in the parks centre, straddled
by the magni ficent Palace on the Island. In doing so
however, you risk missing out on a few treasures, so try
to circumnavigate the park instead.
While you can buy tickets for each azienki attraction
individually, you can also purchase a one-day ticket or
two-days combined ticket which offers single-access
to a chunk of the attractions (Ujazdowski Castle, The
Museum of Hunting and Horsemanship and the Botanical
Garden are not among them). A one-day ticket 25/12z,
two-days tickets 30/17z .
Getting there
Mariokol, pl.wikipedia.org
108
109
WILANW WILANW
It is very easy to visit Warsaw and imagine its history
stretches no further back than the communist post-war
era and that of WWII when the city was effectively wiped
from the map of Europe. But that would be to only under-
stand a small part of this citys and countrys history. The
nations capital has been in Warsaw since the late 16th
century and at one time was the centre of the burgeoning
Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth, a union which lasted over
200 years and whose territory at once stretched from the
Baltic to the Black Sea (incorporating much of modern day
Poland, Ukraine, Belarus and the Baltic States). With so
much of pre-war Warsaw destroyed there are few places
to experience what this must have been like more than at
Wilanows palace and gardens.
The Polish Versailles is just one of the many fitting monikers
applied to this splendid late 17th-century Palace which can
be found in the Warsaw district of Wilanw, 10 kilometres
south of the city centre. Essential visiting for all who come to
soak up the capitals lavish culture and wish to understand
a little more about ancient Poland, Wilanw is more than
just a Palace - it represents an era from which much has
been lost. The palace, park and surrounding ensemble of
buildings represent the height of Polish Baroque and this is
one of Polands greatest national treasures.The sprawling
45-hectare setting is also full of things to do, from visiting
the superb Poster Museum next door to renting a rowing
boat on the Palaces lake. If the weathers good and youve
got time to spare, its easy to spend an entire and thoroughly
rewarding day here.
History
Wilanw gets its name from the Warsaw borough in which
Wilanw Palace is located. First mentioned in the 13th
century as Milanw, the then tiny village changed hands
several times before being bought in the 17th century by
the family of Stanisaw Leszczyski. Leszczyski began
building a Palace here, but the project was halted by the
Deluge and the subsequent capture and plundering of the
region by the Swedes. In 1676 the abandoned Milanw was
bought by King Jan III Sobieski looking for a country retreat
away from Warsaw, and he ordered a new Palace to be built
on the site. Originally called Villa Nova (New Village), the
name was soon polonised to the one its known by today.
A brick manor house was built in 1680, expanding in two
stages into a palace during the years 1681-1696 under
the supervision of Agostino Locci to his own design. It is
within the central part of the palace where you will see the
living quarters of King Jan III Sobieski and his French queen
consort, Marie (or Marysieka as she was affectionately
called by Sobieski and still is by Poles today) in what is the
original part of the palace.
After Jan III Sobieskis death in 1696, his widow returned
to France and the palace through their sons became the
property of Elzbieta Sieniawska. She continued to develop
the palace most notably the two wings which were built in the
years 1720-1729. Sieniawska, like many of the subsequent
owners, honoured Sobieski by conserving much of the palace
in memory of the victorious king. It was to become a royal resi-
dence again in the early 1730s during the reign of August II the
Strong. Over the next two hundred years the palace became
the property of a succession of the most important Polish
families including the Czartoryskis, Lubomirskis, Potockis
and Branickis and each left their mark as they expanded and
developed the property. One of its most enlightened residents
was Stanislaw Kostka Potocki who in the early 19th century,
at a time when Poland as a country ceased to exist because
of the Russian/Prussian/Austrian partition, made his collec-
tion of art and access to the royal apartments of King Jan III
Sobieski available to the public. Keep an eye out for the words
Cunctis patet ingressus on the palace floor signifying that
the palace and its collection were open to all.
The palace avoided the fate of the city of Warsaw and sur-
vived the war virtually intact although its collections were
seriously looted. Confiscated by Polands post-war Com-
munist government, Wilanw became part of the National
Museum in Warsaw and was painstakingly renovated during
the 1950s and early 1960s, opening its doors to the public
again in 1962. Today it is the subject of a 32 million zloty
revitalisation program which is overseeing conservation work
in the royal apartments, archaeological research of the area
and restoring the gardens to the splendor they enjoyed during
Jan III Sobieskis time.
The Wilanw Palace Museum, author: Magdalena Kulpa
The Palace and Gardens at Wilanow can be reached best
of all by bus or taxi directly from the city centre. The citys
metro system does run to a stop called Wilanowska but
this is about 5km from the palace and will involve taking
a bus from outside of the station.
By bus. From Old Town:
From (B-2) pl. Zamkowy take buses 116 or 180 Mon-Fri.
Journey takes about 30 minutes.
From Pl. Trzech Krzyy:
From (C-4) Pl. Trzech Krzyy take buses 116, 180 or
E-2. Journey takes about 25 minutes. The bus stops
can be found at the southern end of the square on Al.
Ujazdowskie.
From the centre:
From (B-4) outside the Cepelia store on Marszalkowska
take bus 519.
From Warszawa Centralna train station:
Take bus 130 or 700 from the southbound stop on (A-4)
ul. Chaubiskiego. Journey takes about 30 minutes.
All buses stop directly outside the palace gates.
By Taxi. At around 50-55z wi th a recommended
company such as Sawa Taxi (tel. 22 644 44 44), a taxi
ride to Wilanw is something of a false economy, taking
more or less the same time as the bus to get there. If
you prefer the comfort and privacy of your own car then
also look for ELE taxis parked around the city, including
outside the (A/B-4) main train station.
Getting there
The Wilanw Palace Museum (Paac w
Wilanowie) ul. S.K. Potockiego 10/16, tel. (+48) 22
842 81 01, www.wilanow-palac.pl. The first museum at
Wilanw was opened in 1805 by the palaces owner at the
time, Stanisaw Kostka Potocki. His aim was to help educate
society and protect national identity and knowledge at a
time when Poland had ceased to exist. This tradition was
maintained by his son August and over two hundred years
on these values are still key to the museums role.
The current museum, which takes up a substantial portion
of the Palaces interior, comes in two parts. Having bought
your ticket in the ticket office near the gate, enter the wing
on the right and descend the stairs. There you will have to
deposit your coat and place shoe covers on your shoes. It
is recommended that you pick up an audio guide, which is
available in a number of languages as well as English, as
there is very little description throughout the museum -
particularly in the Polish portrait gallery. Heading through
a small room containing some old royal coaches, head up
the stairs into the first part of the museum - The Polish
Portrait Gallery - featuring portraits from the 16th to 19th
century. Wander through room after room of portraits of
the rich and the powerful including some fascinating Polish
coffin portraits of important figures. If portraits are your
thing you will find this very interesting although the lack
of description and in some cases even the name of the
people portrayed is rather frustrating.
The tour leads you around the top of the house and then
downstairs once more where you will find yourself in the
residence of the palace. Featuring suits of armour, Etruscan
vases, a room featuring magnificent frescoes uncovered
during restoration work after the war, residential rooms,
an exceedingly rare 18th-century glass grandfather clock
and even a private chapel there is a lot to admire. There
are English language cards available in most rooms which
give you a basic description of what to look for. The central
part of the lower floor is the most impressive. It is here that
you will find the private apartments of King Jan III Sobieski
and his wife while the wings house the apartments of the
subsequent owners of the palace. There are some lavish
touches to be seen throughout the lower level and it may be
of interest that the leadership of communist Poland would
often use the palace to accommodate foreign dignitaries.
Jimmy Carter once stayed here, while one of the beds had
to be especially adapted to sleep the rather tall Charles de
Gaulle when he visited. It is quite easy to spend a couple of
hours wandering around the palace but be warned that it
tends to fill with schoolchildren during the week and tourists
at the weekends so theres not really a best time to visit.
Q Open 09:30 - 16:00, Sun 10:30 - 16:00. Closed Tue.
Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 20/15z,
Sun free. Audioguide 12z.
The Wilanw Palace Museum
Lake & Island. Theres also a natural lake found behind
the Palace, where gondolas complete with gondoliers and
rowing boats can be hired for leisurely trips on the water be-
ginning in May (weather permitting). A trip here will reward you
with a glimpse of Enrico Marconis strange, Gothic-inspired
pump room, and an adventure to the Parks island reveals
a monument to the Polish soldier, Captain Ksawery Burski,
who served in the army of the Duchy of Warsaw and who
gave his life at Wilanw fighting the Austrians at the Battle
of Raszyn in 1809. Q Boat hire open from 10:30 - 18:00.
7/5 z for a place in a gondola; 10z per boat per half hour.
Rental is weather permitting during October.
Park & Gardens. The 45 hectares that make up Wilanw
Park grew over the centuries according to the particular
fancies of its owners. The Parks present form dates from
the extensive and mostly faithful renovations made during
the 1950s, overseen by the architect and historian Profes-
sor Gerard Cioek (1909-1966). Made up of a series of
individual gardens, the Park includes a two-level Baroque
garden, a Neo-Renaissance rose garden, a classical English
landscaped park and the so called English-Chinese land-
scape park. The nearby Orangery and its garden serves as
a splendid venue for outdoor classical music concerts during
the summer season. The park near the Orangery, East, North
and Rose gardens and their associated architecture were
recently the subject of a major revitalisation program and
during work on the Baroque garden a series of archaeological
digs discovered several artefacts, including ceramics dating
from the 12th century. Now the gardens have been restored
to their appearance during the time of King Jan III Sobieski.
Q Park open 09:00 till dusk. Admission 5/3z, Thu free.
Poster Museum (Muzeum Plakatu) ul. S. K. Potock-
iego 10/16, tel. (+48) 22 842 48 48, www.postermu-
seum.pl. Housed inside the Palaces former indoor riding area,
the Poster Museum features two large halls full of wonderful
posters from all over the world. At over 55,000 pieces, this is
reportedly the largest poster collection to be found anywhere.
The Wilanw Palace Museum,
author: Zbigniew Reszka
110
111
CHOPIN WILANW
The museum focuses on the artistic merits of the posters
rather than their documentary value and plays host to a cycle of
temporary events and exhibitions. As a contrast to the historic
palace and collection of paintings next door, this makes for
interesting additional place to visit while in Wilanw. You can also
find many of the best examples of the posters reproduced into
postcards which can be bought from the museum shop along
with books and catalogues on the various prints and exhibits.
QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Mon 12:00 - 16:00. Last entrance 30
minutes before closing. Admission 10/7z, Mon free.
Potocki Mausoleum (Mauzoleum Potockich)
Wilanw Park. A tomb dedicated to Stanisaw Kostka Po-
tocki and his wife Aleksandra (nee Lubomirska) Potocka by
their son Aleksander. Designed in 1834 by Henryk Marconi
and built between 1834-1836 by Jakub Tatarkiewicz and
Konstanty Hegl, the mausoleum is made entirely of sand-
stone. It is located in the park leading to Wilanw Palace and
consists of a Neo-Gothic canopy with lions holding shields
bearing the crests of the Potocki and Lubomirski families
in each corner. On the sarcophagus are the figures of the
deceased and around the sides symbols of their virtues and
interests are displayed.
SD Gallery (Galeria SD) ul. S. K. Potockiego 22,
tel. (+48) 783 40 77 70, www.galeriasd.pl. This small
collection of modern Polish art close to St. Annes Church
includes paintings and sculptures by many of the countrys
leading contemporary artists. Featuring some truly impres-
sive pieces of art, most of the work on display is available
for sale. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Admission free.
St. Annes Church (Koci w. Anny) ul. Kolegi-
acka 1, tel. (+48) 22 842 18 01, www.parafiawilanow.
pl. A church on this site dates back to the 14th century when
the wooden church of St. Leonard was built here. This was
replaced by a Gothic wooden construction and graveyard
in the 16th century and it wasnt replaced with a brick one
until well after the time of Jan III Sobieski in 1772. The new
church was called St. Annes and was founded by Prince
August Adam Czartoryski to a design by Jan Kotelnicki.
Czartoryskis grand-daughter, Al eksandra Lubormirska
Potocka, decorated the church with art in the period 1799-
1831, the most precious of which is the Annunciation to the
Virgin Mary in the main altar.
Between 1857 and 1870, Aleksandras son August and his
wife extend the church to a design by Henri Marconi. The
church gets a Neo-Renaissance look and the marvellous
dome is added. In the gardens surrounding the church build-
ing you will find terracotta shrines marking the fourteen Sta-
tions of the Cross while within the church, in the crypt under
the chapel, are the tombs of the Potocki family.
The church suffered damage during both world wars and was
even used as an internment camp by the Nazis, who also
looted and damaged it. The church bells dating from 1723
and 1777 survived thanks to the bravery of the local people
who hid them and these are now housed in the newly built
Third Millenium Tower.
The church is a particularly beautiful one to visit nowadays
thanks in no small part to the work of the parish priest
Bogusaw Bijak and it is protected as part of a complex of
parks, buildings and original roads running into the centre
of the city as a national Historic Memorial. QOpen 06:30 -
17:00, Sun 14:00 - 17:00. No visiting during mass please.
Where to eat
China Garden ul. Kazachska 1. See Restaurants.
Restauracja Wilanw ul. S. K. Potockiego 27. See
Restaurants.
Jan Sobieski was born in
Olesko near Lwow (now
Ukrainian Lvi v) in 1629.
His father was a Polish-
Lithuanian nobleman who
ensured young Jan and
his brother received a first
class education and they
both went onto study at the Jagiellonian University in Krakow
before Jan travelled abroad. He studied military history and
tactics including significantly as it would turn out in Turkey
(as an envoy of King Jan II Casimir) where he learned the
Tartar language in the 1650s. Sobieski also spoke French,
German and Italian and during this time met major European
political figures including Louis II deBourbon, William of
Orange and Charles II, where it is clear that he learnt the
value of diplomacy as well as military might.
Jan Sobieski would have a lifelong love of France thanks
in part to his French wife Marie (or Marysienka as he
fondly named her) whom he married in 1665 and fathered
14 children with (of whom 8 survived).
Having returned to Poland Sobieski went on to serve with
distinction in the Battle of Warsaw (1656), where he led a
Tartar cavalry regiment, and the Polish Swedish wars (1655-
1660) among others. In 1666 he sided with the king Micha
Korybut Winiowiecki during the Lubormirski rebellion and
added another major victory to his list by defeating the Turks
at the Battle of Chocim in 1673. It was this victory allied to
his reputation as a strong leader, astute military tactician
and a canny political knack that would result in him being
elected as Polish King the following year, in 1674.
Sobieski inherited a nation virtually penniless from 50
years of continuous war and set about stabilising the
countrys borders through treaties and strategic battles.
It is for this combination of wisdom and bravery that he
is well remembered today.
Sobieskis greatest moment, however, was to come in
1683. Having marched through most of the Balkans a
vast Turkish army was massed on the outskirts of Vienna
threatening to overwhelm the Christian world. Led by
King Jan III Sobieski a joint Polish/German/Austrian army
scored a magnificent victory in a daylong battle on 12
September 1683 vanquishing the Turks. Sobieski led a
charge of Polish hussars breaking the opposition lines
and sending the Turks into disarray. Sobieski entered
the abandoned tent of the Turkish commander Kara
Mustapha in the early evening signifying victory and parts
of that tent are today on display within Wilanow Palace.
The Turks were to name Sobieski The Lion of Lechistan
(Lechistan being an ancient name of Poland) while
Danzig astronomer Johannes Hevelius would name a
newly discovered constellation Scutum Sobiescianum
(Sobieskis Shield) after him, quite an accolade for a still
living, non-astronomer as was Sobieski.
The victory not only saved Christendom (Sobieski was
described as the saviour of European Christendom by
the Pope) but also made a lasting impact on European
food culture. According to urban legend pastries were cre-
ated baked in a shape designed to resemble Sobieskis
stirrups (beugel in Austrian), which supposedly evolved
to become the bagels we enjoy today.
Jan III Sobieski
2010 saw the country toast Chopi n wi th champagne;
Polands greatest composer, and Warsaws favourite son,
a man whose lent his name to everything from vodka to
airports (and even an asteroid). For 2010 marked the 200th
anniversary of Fryderyk Chopins birth and saw the city
celebrate his life with amongst other things the opening of
a fabulous new museum.
Chopin - Life & Times
And what a life it was. Of course, in the spirit of all the greats
theres a considerable element of mystery surrounding the
man. Say it very, very quietly, but theres even dispute as
to his birthday and parentage. Most sources agree he was
born on February 22, 1810, yet some claim his family could
be found celebrating his birth on March 1. At the time of his
death only Jane Stirling, his Scottish benefactor, claimed to
know the truth, and this she wrote on a piece of paper before
burying it with him. Furthermore, while most accept he was
the son of a French expatriate some experts argue he was
the bastard child of an unnamed aristocrat. The truth has
been lost to time.
One thing we can be certain of, and thats his birthplace -
the town of elazowa Wola fifty kilometres west of Warsaw.
However, he stayed there for just a year, with the family
moving to Warsaw in 1811 after his father, a man whod
fought the Russians in the Napoleonic Wars, found a job as
a French tutor.
By all accounts he was a prodigy from the offing. The young
Frederic started learning piano at the age of four, and by the
age of eight had already performed at what is now the Presi-
dential Palace. Yet in spite of his obvious talents applications
for a state grant were repeatedly refused. Nevertheless, his
childhood was happy, and the gingerbread eating Frederic
received gushing reviews in local columns and press.
A diligent student he was educated at home for the first 13
years, before attending Warsaws Lyceum, and then the Warsaw
Music Conservatory. He continued to blossom under its director,
the Polish composer Joseph Elsner, who was wowed by Chopins
musical mastery. He graduated from the Conservatory in 1829,
the same year he was to meet Konstancha Gadkowska, and his
unrequited love for her inspired many of his early compositions.
Within three weeks of graduation he made a sparkling foreign
debut in Vienna, before returning to Poland to perform the
premier of his Piano Concerto in F minor. Already recognised
as an amazing talent, Chopin started showing the signs of
illness that would continue to blight the rest of his life. A keen
traveller (on record is a tour of Europe undertaken in 1826 dur-
ing which he visited Dresden, Krakw, Prague and numerous
other places as a tourist), Chopin set off to play in Vienna in
November 1830, following a farewell party in a Wola tavern.
Unbeknownst to him at the time, that was to be his last taste
of Warsaw. By the end of the month Poland had risen in rebel-
lion against the ruling Russians. Dissuaded from joining the
uprising himself Chopin drew inspiration from events to write
his masterpiece, Revolution. Passages of his Stuttgart diary
record his torment: Oh God, do you exist? Or are you yourself a
Muscovite! Choosing to stay in exile Chopin settled in playboy
Paris where he was welcomed by Polish migrs, as well as
upcoming composers and high society. His friends numbered
Berlioz, Bellini (who he is buried next to) and Mendelssohn, as
well as high profile Poles like the uncrowned King, Prince Adam
Czartoryski and bard Adam Mickiewicz, while his dapper dress
and natural charms attracted a string of adoring females.
Drawing on his Polish upbringing the 1830s saw Chopin enjoy an
impressively productive spell, composing a series of acclaimed
polonaises and mazurkas. Ill health followed him however, so
much so that when he was taken ill on a trip to meet his parents
in 1835 some Polish scandal sheets reported him dead.
He wasnt, and the defining point of his life was to occur two
years later when he met the controversial author George
Sand (yes, thats a woman). His first impression is recorded
as being surprisingly acid: what an unpleasant woman, he is
known to have commented. Already secretly engaged to a 17
year old Polish girl, how Chopins life would have evolved if he
had never seen Sand again is open to speculation. Instead he
embarked on a torrid nine year affair with this classic scarlet
woman, with one stage of their rocky relationship marked by
a stint in an abandoned monastery on the island of Mallorca.
Racked with chronic lung problems and a near permanent
cough, the faltering affair span out of control when Sand, a
loose-moraled man-killer, serialised the novel Lucretia Floriani
in a Paris newspaper in 1846. The boorish, asexual antihero is
commonly recognized as being a parody of Chopin. Broke, ill and
now broken-hearted, Chopin led an increasingly miserable and
secluded life. He finally passed away in his Paris apartment aged
just 39 - though just like his birth, his death is equally conten-
tious; some believe tuberculosis as the cause of death, others
a malady such as emphysema or cystic fibrosis. If you believe
the stories he carried a lock of Sands hair till the day he died
(though by the same token he is also alleged to have carried an
urn of Polish soil). Buried in Pere-Lachaise cemetery in Paris, on
his insistence his body was cut open (he was petrified of being
buried alive) and his heart later interned in a pillar of Warsaws
Koci witego Krzya. His funeral was as weird as his life,
delayed for two weeks while church authorities debated whether
to grant his wish and allow Mozarts Requiem to be sung at his
funeral (the point of contention being the presence of female
singers). Regarded as the pinnacle of the Romantic style his
music and legend survive to this day.
112
113
CHOPIN CHOPIN
What to See
The Chopin Family Drawing Room C-3, ul. Kra-
kowskie Przedmiecie 5, tel. (+48) 22 320 02 75,
www.chopin.museum. The young Chopin hopped around
three separate residences in Warsaw, though only one
will be of use to visitors. Saski Palace - where his father
worked as a tutor - was in the process of being rebuilt (work
now halted and temporarily abandoned), while Kazimier-
zowski Palace is closed off to visitors as part of Warsaw
University - a plaque on the right wing commemorates his
fleeting presence. Instead pay a visit to Krasiski Palace
(formerly Czapski Palace) on Krakowskie Przedmiecie,
a place Chopin himsel f described as his refuge. Recon-
structed in 1960 and opened to the public in 1969 none
of the original furnishings survived the war, though the
period furniture on display has been faithfully assembled
to recreate his drawing room as seen in an Antoni Kolberg
painting made in 1832. Chopin lived and entertained here
from 1827 until his last day in Poland, and today some of
the antiques on display include a writing desk owned by his
elder sister and a pianoforte dating from 1830, as well as
paintings of his mother, sister and tutor. Another pianoforte
on show was once allegedly used by Franz Liszt. Thats not
the only famous connection - poet Cyprian Norwid attended
school in this building. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat,
Sun. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission
3/2z, Wed free. Y
Holy Cross Church (Koci w. Krzya) C- 3,
ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 3, tel. (+48) 22 826
89 10, www.swkrzyz.pl. No Chopinol ogist can l eave
Warsaw wi thout first visi ting the final resting place of
his heart (the rest of him being in Paris famous Pre
Lachaise cemetery). Added to the church in 1882 his
heart was seal ed in an urn and then placed behind a
tabl et bearing his likeness speciall y carved by Leonardo
Marconi. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 14:00 - 16:00. No
visi ting during mass pl ease.
azienki Park. Our youthful cherry-cheeked hero fre-
quently gave concerts in the Belvedere Palace (G-5, ul.
Belwederska 52), then the stamping ground of the Russian
aristocracy. It was here he played for the Tsars brother, Great
Prince Konstanty, whose numerous duties included being the
commander-in-chief of the Polish Army. So taken was he by
Chopins skills that he persuaded him to pen a march to be
played during military parades.
Elsewhere in azienki dont dare miss a visit to the art nou-
veau Chopin Monument (G-4) next to the Botanical Garden.
Set in the midst of a rose garden it was erected in 1926,
the work of acclaimed sculptor Wacaw Szymankowski. As
part of the Nazi brutalization of Warsaw it was dynamited by
German busybodies on May 31, 1940. The following day an
unknown patriot had placed a placard on the smouldering
ruin declaring: I dont know who destroyed me, but I know
why; so I dont play the funeral march for your leader. A
plaster-cast of the original model allowed the statue to be
rebuilt and a faithful reconstruction was unveiled in 1958.
An identical replica can be found at Japans Hamamatsu
Academy of Music.
Augsburg Evangelical Church of the Holy Trin-
ity (Koci w. Trjcy) B- 3, Pl. Maachowskiego
1, tel. (+48) 22 556 46 60, www.trojca.waw.pl. I n
1825 Chopi n once more per formed for the Russi ans,
thi s ti me for the Tsar hi msel f who i n return presented
Chopi n wi th a di amond ri ng. Q Open by pri or arrange-
ment.
Fryderyk Chopin Museum (Muzeum Fryderyka
Chopina) C-3, ul. Oklnik 1, tel. (+48) 22 441 62 51,
www.chopin.museum. The most anticipated museum
opening in Poland since the 2004 launch of the Uprising
Museum, the Fryderyk Chopin Museum is a jaw-dropping
venue if youve had previous experience of Polish museums.
Touted as one of the most high tech in Europe the museum
officially opened in the spring of 2010 to help mark the
200th anniversary of one of Polands most famous sons.
Over 81 million zlotys were siphoned from council coffers
to see this project realized, and the result is an amazing
space designed by Grzegory and Partnerzy and fitted out
by Migliore&Servetto of Milan. Taking up four floors the
museum features an interactive style and shares in the life
of Chopin from start to finish leaving absolutely no detail
out. Among the 5,000 exhibits are a lock of hair, his school
exercise books, a sweet box, a gold watch presented to
the ten year old Frederic by an admiring Italian singer and
the passport he used to enter England. So comprehensive
is the collection it even features the last letter he wrote
to his family and dried flowers from his deathbed. Also, of
course, are several paintings and sculptures (including
his death mask), and a recreation of his Paris drawing
room and even an intriguing section on the women who
made the man. And while theres one small room of the
museum aimed at children, the other 95 percent of this
epic exhibition will probably have them whining to leave.
However, what really revolutionizes this museum is the
way your route is conducted. Aside from an avalanche of
e-books, audio-visuals, music games and touchscreen
options, the museum allows visitors to adapt their trip
to their particular circumstances. Put simply those enter-
ing can choose exactly what they want to see, and how
much they want to know about it. Even better are the
micro-chipped tickets that can be swiped along different
interactive exhibits to allow the visitor to hear music,
stories or watch a film. One area that was particularly
popular is the musical Twister game, which had normally
stoic middle-aged tourists leaping from spot to spot as
music played. Mr Chopin, welcome to the 21st century.
As for the building, thats worth getting to know as well.
Located in the Ostrogski Palace the structure housing the
museum is something of a Warsaw landmark, and was
originally designed by Tylman van Gameren. In the past its
been home to everything from a Napoleonic military hospital
to the riotous Morgans Pub, and its catacombs are said to
be home of the legendary Golden Duck; a princess charmed
by the devil before being transformed into a beaked amphib-
ian. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 60
minutes before closing. Admission 22/13z, family ticket
62z, Tue free. Number of visitors is restricted, so it is
advisable to reserve tickets in advance online.
Fryderyk Chopin Museum
Church of the Nuns of the Visitation C- 3, ul.
Krakowskie Przedmiecie 34, tel. (+48) 22 826 65
85, www.wizytki.waw.pl. Visit the church that Chopin
attended in his youth by popping into this baroque beauty.
Pride of place goes to the original organ which our man
himself played during a part time stint as a school organist.
A plaque outside confirms the Chopin connection: In honour
of Fryderyk Chopin, who played on the organ in this church as
a pupil of the Warsaw Lyceum in the years 1825-1826. Q
Open 09:00 - 16:30, Mon 13:00 - 16:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00,
14:00 - 16:30. No visiting during mass please.
Chopin Monument (Pomnik Chopina) G-4, azienki
Park. Dont dare miss a visit to the art nouveau Chopin Monu-
ment (G-4) next to the Botanical Garden. Set in the midst of
a rose garden it was erected in 1926, the work of acclaimed
sculptor Wacaw Szymankowski. As part of the Nazi brutalization
of Warsaw it was dynamited by German busybodies on May
31, 1940. The following day an unknown patriot had placed
a placard on the smoldering ruin declaring: I dont know who
destroyed me, but I know why; so I dont play the funeral march
for your leader. A plaster-cast of the original model allowed the
statue to be rebuilt and a reconstruction was unveiled in 1958.
Chopin Benches. The good city of Warsaw has devised
one more way to bring Chopin to the people, and thats by way
of fifteen musical benches that have been placed at key sites
connected with his life. Made of cast iron and polished black
stone these benches, designed by Professor Jerzy Porebski,
feature a button which when pressed have been designed
to unleash a thirty second torrent of Chopin. They also come
equipped with a route map as well as brief explanations in Polish
and English as to the sites relevance to Chopin. However, thats
not all. These benches see Chopin go techno: each one comes
inscribed with a special code - take a pic on your phone, then
send it to the instructed number and youll be rewarded to free
access to Chopin melodies, facts, figures and photographs.
And the Rest
It didnt have a Starbucks and it didnt have Coffeeheaven,
but even back in those days Warsaw had a thriving caf
culture. This wasnt lost on Chopin who would frequent now
defunct venues such as Pod Kopciuszkiem and Dziurka on
ul. Miodowa. One venue that has survived is Honoratka,
named after its proprietor Honorata Zimerman, and a
particular favourite stomping ground of the composer. He
was also an avid reader, confessing to visiting the Brzezina
Bookstore (again, now gone) on Miodowa every day, as well
as stocking up on sheet music in Dal Trozza on Senatorska.
Elsewhere the building on the corner of ul. Kozia and Trbacka
formerly housed the Royal Post Office, and its here that Cho-
pin forwarded his luggage from before departing Poland for
what would prove to be his last time. Finally theres Powzki
Cemetery, where his parents lie in plot 9-IV-1. Jzef Elsner,
his mentor and teacher, can be found at plot 159-V-1.
Where to eat
Polka, Magda Gessler po prostu elazowa Wola
14, tel. (+48) 46 863 21 68, www.restauracjapolka.
pl. Set in a modern manor house across from Chopins
birthplace is this classy venture by one of the countrys
best known celebrity chefs - Magda Gessler. The setting is
beautiful and features a summer terrace and grill for those
warmer months. The food is Polish with some nice touches
at prices that might surprise those who have eaten in city
centre Gessler restaurants and makes for an excellent end
to an interesting day outside of busy Warsaw. QOpen 12:00
- 21:00. (28-99z). PTAUIEGSW
elazowa Wola - Birthplace elazowa Wola 15, tel.
(+48) 46 863 33 00, www.nifc.pl. True enthusiasts will
want to make the pilgrimage to Chopins place of birth, and
a worthwhile trip it is. So what to expect? Well, although
Chopin only spent the first year of his life here the place
has become a veritable shrine to the man, and youll find it
perpetually filled with foreign fans paying homage.
The Chopin clan left for Warsaw in the autumn of 1810, but
even so elazowa Wola clearly held fond memories for the
family. The Chopins found themselves returning frequently
for their holidays, and we know for a fact the composer
spent Christmas here in 1825 and New Years in 1826. The
ZW manor house which saw the birth of Chopin is thought
to have been built at the tail end of the 18th century, and
came into the ownership of Countess Ludwika Skarbek in
1801. Adam Towiaski, who resided there between 1859
and 1878, was the first to raise the idea of turning the
manor into a place of memory, and he set about restoring
the complex to its Chopin-era glory. A change of ownership
saw the project stall for a decade and it was only in 1891
that work was resumed on building a Chopin museum.
Thwarted by a lack of funds these efforts didnt get much
further than the unveiling of a Chopin monument, and for
the next couple of decades work didnt so much stall as die.
Poland regained her independence in 1918, and the
related surge in national pride saw new efforts to com-
memorate Chopins legacy. The building was granted
historic status and in 1928 the property was purchased
by a Sochaczew-based Chopin society. Restoration on
the buildings was initiated in 1930, as were plans to
landscape the gardens, and buoyed by donations the
curators started amassing a stack of Chopin memora-
bilia, among them a Pleyel piano. Disaster struck in the
familiar form of the German army: the outbreak of war in
1939 saw a German unit billeted here, and the building
was looted and damaged.
By the time the Chopin Institute was awarded trust of the
house in the late 1940s the house was in a sorry state of
rot. Working round the clock elazowa Wola was re-opened
to the public on the centenary of Chopins death in 1949.
Today no original fixtures and fittings remain, and even
the original layout has been altered somewhat. Even so,
the house has been filled with period keepsakes, instru-
ments and paintings, and visitors all attest to the haunting
spirit of Chopin that hangs in the rooms. Displays on view
include portraits of Chopin and 19th century furniture
in the Bierdermier style. However, the bit that most will
enjoy is the mothers room, the actual scene of Chopins
birth. Now a calm white room adorned with a decorative
bouquet this has become a real point of pilgrimage with
a reverential silence observed by all who visit.
Outside the landscaped gardens make for a nice week-
end walk, and feature four Chopin monuments including
one obelisk dating from 1894. While it might get busy,
its Sunday that proves the best time to visit; since 1954
concerts have been held in the garden (weather allowing)
from May through September.
Getting there:
elazowa Wola is 54km west of Warsaw and theres no
longer any direct buses from here to there (shame on
you Warsaw). Employ Plan B: take a train to Sochaczew
( journey time 40 minutes, tickets 13.80z - 17z) and from
there jump on bus number six which terminates at Mokas
after stopping at elazowa Wola. This little adventure
should take a further twenty minutes.
elazowa Wola
115
(for young adults) on the ground floor, and Humans and the
Environment, LightZone and On the Move located upstairs.
Each area demonstrates a range of phenomenon by way of
experiments, button pressing, quizzes and in some cases
physical exertion with the aim of helping you to discover the
secrets of the world around us.
Not only will you learn an awful lot, but the place is great fun,
especially if you are (or are with) a child. Theres a genuine
flying carpet, you can pilot a spaceship, take a picture of your
own eye (and then try to recognise it among the others pho-
tographed that day), discover who or what is living next to us
in a major city, get involved in some crime solving or - and this
was our favourite - try to outdo animals at their own game by
out-hanging an Orangutan or beating a hippo in a race at the
arena. Theres plenty to do and you can easily spend a whole
morning or afternoon there trying everything, particularly if
you stumble on a day free of the ever-present school groups.
Additional hands-on activities geared especially towards
teens can be found in the Re: generation Zone, where visitors
over 14 can experiment with psychology, sociology, econom-
ics or biotechnology through 80 multimedia exhibits - we
swear weve never seen teens more effusive and excited
as they tried to identify a monkeys emotions, or finish lyrics
to popular songs. Theres also four interactive labs dealing
with chemistry, biology, physics and robotics that offer
supervised experiments for kids over 13 (instructions are
in Polish however) and an outdoor Discovery Park filled with
installations lining the Wisa.
The attached Heavens of Copernicus planetarium adds
yet another option for visiting science buffs as it immerses
attendees in 20 million stars thanks to a giant spherical
screen that surrounds the 137 seats on all sides. The seven
different 40-minute films (which require heads ets for English)
114
COPERNICUS SCIENCE CENTRE COPERNICUS SCIENCE CENTRE
Copernicus Science Centre (Centrum Nauki
Kopernik) G-2, ul. Wybrzee Kociuszkowskie 20,
tel. (+48) 22 596 41 00, www.kopernik.org.pl. Q
Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Closed
Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing.
Note that the Planetarium has different opening hours.
Open 09:30 - 19:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 20:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 22/13-16z, family ticket 57z.
(2adults+2children). Use of the labs costs an additional
18/14z. Note that you must buy a separate ticket for the
Planetarium. Admission 18z/11-14z, family ticket 47z.
Getting in
Courtesy of Copernicus Science Centre
Courtesy of Copernicus Science Centre Courtesy of Copernicus Science Centre
While the worlds attention was drawn towards the highly-
visible, round-the-clock construction of Warsaws amazing
new stadium on the left bank of the Wisa, work was also
being carried out on the rivers right bank on a building
that might well outshine the stadium once the Euro 2012
hoopla has died down. Built on time and on budget (well,
just about), the Copernicus Science Centre (CSC) - - which
stands almost directly opposite the stadium along the
river - - looks set to become Warsaws top tourist at-
traction for years to come.
Getting there
The centre can be found in the shadow of the witokrzyski
Bridge on the banks of the Wisa River. A journey to the CSC
from the centre of Warsaw should take around 10 minutes.
Buses 105, 118 and 128 will drop you at the Biblioteka
Uniwersytecka stop, requiring a short walk around the
corner to the unmissable building. Buses 102, 162 and
185 will drop you at the Pomnik Syreny stop with the CSC
clearly in sight. Alternatively visit the About us section of
the English language website www.kopernik.org.pl, where
you can get directions by car, by bus, or by foot by typing
in your address.
Introduction
A rare exampl e of European Union funding being used in
a genuinel y visionary way, the CSC is many things, not
least (in the words of Polands Education Minister shortl y
before the opening) an attempt to restate the case for
sci ence and research in what can still be an intensely and
deeply religious country. In that sense, giving t he centre
the name of the man who did so much to end the churchs
monopoly of education in the first place is little short of a
masterstroke.
Not that Copernicus did it all his own way; in the aftermath of
the tragic death of Polish President Lech Kaczynski in April
2010 the presidents political party, PiS (Law & Justice), lob-
bied heavily to have the CSC renamed for him. The request
was politely, respectfully, refused.
Given the stunning, futuristic sight - all glass and steel - - that
greets visitors at the 93 million (half of which came from the
EU, half of which came from the Polish taxpayer) CSC today,
its a little ironic that the buildings origins are slightly more
humble. The idea of creating the centre first took shape at
the informal Science Picnics - - outdoor science, culture
and art events aimed at the general public that have been
held in Warsaws Rynek Nowego Miasta since 1997. The
idea of the picnics (which were organised by Polskie Radio,
strangel y enough) was to bring popular science to the
masses through handson experiments. Each year, as the
numbers of scientists, universities, schools and members
of the general public taking part grew, it became clear that
there was an expanding interest in science in Warsaw, while
the large numbers of foreign visitors who came to the events
suggested that there was an untapped market in the region
for hands-on scientific learning. Construction of the CSC was
the natural next step, though it took a number of years to
secure the site and funding.
Given the ad hoc Science Picnic origins of the CSC, it is no
surprise that the museum (if we can call it that) was opened
in a slightly ad hoc, it-will-be-all-right-eventually fashion. The
opening show, Wielki Wybuch (The Big Bang), directed by
Peter Greenaway and Saskia Boddeke, was a little under-
whelming (and at certain points quite bizarre), while visitors
to the centre in the first couple of weeks were greeted by an
annoyingly large number of this exhibit is temporarily out of
order signs. Yet throughout 2011 as the CSC rolled out sec-
tions of the museum to the public it quickly became clear that
this is unquestionably the very best science centre in Europe,
and today visitors can enjoy a fully completed attraction.
Visiting Today
Arriving at the main doors at the north end of the building,
you will be met by the centres very own Robothespian. A fully
programmable humanoid robot, the Robothespian was de-
veloped in Britain by the Eden Project in Cornwall. He speaks,
interacts, mimics and performs, and visitors can prompt him
to make a number of sounds, speech and movements by the
adjacent control panel. This will keep the kids busy while you
queue at the central ticket desk where you will be given a set
of credit card-style entrance passes. You should keep hold
of these as not only do they allow you to enter and exit the
building throughout the day, but they will also become your
ID card as you move through the exhibitions, many of which
allow you to record your results (which are stored and then
emailed to you afterwards).
Passing through the barriers, the first display you come
to is a huge swinging ball. The ball swings backwards and
forwards, periodically knocking over mallets that strike a
bell as they fall. These bells are lined up around the swinging
ball in a circle and although the ball swings in a straight line
backwards and forwards, the knocking over of the mallets
proves that the earth is constantly, actually rotating.
Having admired this, the interactive exhibitions begin. First of
all, register your card with your name and email address at
one of the terminals so that you will be identified as you prog-
ress through the CSC. You currently have over 350 experi-
ments to visit, spread over two floors and six areas: Roots of
Civilisation, Bzzz! (for preschool children) and RE:generation
are geared towards different age ranges and interests - tots
will delight in the Sesame Street show One World, One Sky
while teens will prefer the more mysterious Black Holes:
Journey into the Unknown. Before each film is a 20-minute
live show (which is unfortunately only in Polish, though still
interesting due to the impressive venue) about the skies
over Warsaw that changes with the seasons .School groups
dominate the Planetariums seats during daytime hours, and
booking tickets in advance is highly recommended - when
we dropped in only one of the eight daily shows had avail-
able space.
Its easy to declare that the centre is well-worth a few hours of
your time and will impress you with its design and range of ex-
periments. Factor in the main floor cafeteria and the packed
Science Store (potentially the best spot for childrens gifts
in Warsaw) and its a one-stop day of fun. The staff is keen,
very helpful and English-speaking; we saw many interacting
happily with kids and helpfully controlling the chaos. If there
is one gripe we have it would concern the Robotics show,
which can be found inside the Roots of Civilisation section.
The 20-minute show we saw told an embarrassingly bad
story about a robot that wants to become human in order
to marry a princess, and used language that seemed slightly
out of reach for young children. The various accents can also
be baffling (one robot sounds like a drunken Sean Connery)
and the robots themselves are like stiff mannequins that
move back and forth on a small track. Completely skippable.
Considering the size and scope of this operation, one minor
flaw in an otherwise awe-inspiring complex is a feat unseen
in Warsaw. And if truth be told, it would have been very hard
to imagine such a potentially world-class visitor attraction
being built in this city just a few years ago. Yet here it is, which
ought to be worth an exhibit in and of itself about how the
impossible can become possible.
116
117
LEISURE
Entertainment centres
Hulakula Leisure Centre C-3, ul. Dobra 56/66 (Uni-
versity Library), tel. (+48) 22 552 74 00, www.hulakula.
com.pl. Includes a bowling alley, club, restaurant, pool hall,
climbing wall and indoor playground for chi ldren. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00, Wed 12:00 - 01:00, Thu 12:00 - 02:00, Fri
12:00 - 03:00, Sat 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00.
Spin City ul. Powstacw lskich 126A (Cinema City,
Bemowo), tel. (+48) 22 560 42 42, www.spincity.pl.
Open 10:00-24:00 Sun-Thurs, 10:00-02:00 Fri, Sat. Admis-
sion for bowling is 40-99zl per hour. Features a bowling alley,
a bar with pool tables and darts and a video games area.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00.
Fitness & Gyms
Pure Health and Fitness A-4, ul. Zota 59 (Zote
Tarasy), tel. (+48) 22 379 77 77, www.purepoland.
com. Third floor of Zote Tarasy, with facilties including
gym, jacuzzi, sauna and solarium. QOpen 06:00 - 22:30,
Sat 08:00 - 22:30, Sun 08:00 - 21:00.
Golf
First Warsaw Golf and Country Club ul. Golfowa 44,
Jabonna, tel. (+48) 22 782 45 55, www.firstwarsawgolf.
com. Enjoy a year-round driving range with 36 balls costing
15z, and an 18-hole golf course for 125-250z (price depend-
ing on the day). QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 07:30 - 19:00.
Golf Park Driving Range ul. Vogla 19 (Wilanw), tel.
(+48) 22 424 70 83, www.golfparkspoland.pl. For 25z you
get 50 balls for use on the driving range. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00.
Golf Park Jzefw ul. Telimeny 1, Jzefw, tel. (+48)
22 778 30 90, www.holiday.aquila.pl. Opened in 2007 Golf
Swing features a six hole course, flood lit driving range, golf
classes and club rental. The course is open outside of winter
while the driving range is open all year round with 45 balls
costing 20zl. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00.
Golf Parks Poland ul. Vogla 19 (Wilanw), tel. (+48)
22 424 70 83, www.golfparkspoland.pl. A driving range
and six-hole course for 30zl per hour. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00.
Horse riding
Anka Rancho Horse Riding ul. Wawrzyniecka 25,
Glinianka, tel. (+48) 602 30 48 61, www.ankarancho.
pl. Q Open Sat, Sun only 10:00 - 13:00, 15:00 till dusk.
Phone reservation two days in advance. One hour horse
riding 50z.
Wilczeniec Country Club (Klub Wiejski Wilcze-
niec) ul. Kocielna Droga 10, omianki, tel. (+48) 22
751 97 77, www.wilczeniec.pl. English speaking instruc-
tion also available. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.
60z/40 minutes of riding in a closed corral with assistance,
40z/40 minutes riding outside the corral on your own.
Outdoor Attractions & Parks
Playground F-6, ul. Odyca 6, www.ogrodjordanowski.
pl. A huge complex of climbers, slides, sandpits, swings and
more unusual contraptions to keep both very small and not
so small kids busy. Parents drink coffees at the cafe on the
grounds. Keep your eyes open for kiddie events. Q Open
07:00 till dusk. Admission free.
Adrenaline Sports
Mr. Quad ul. Tysiclecia 59a, Otwock, tel. (+48) 22
788 45 14, www.mrquad.pl. Q Open by prior arrange-
ment. 10 quads, 246z per day (12 hrs) per one quad.
Silt Paintball, tel. (+48) 503 41 41 75, www.paint-
ball.silt.pl. A minimum of ten people in a group generally
required so call in advance. Q 60z per person, equipment
plus 200 shells.
Bike Rental
Veturilo, en.veturilo.waw.pl. Warsaw cements its big-
city credentials with the arrival of its first city-wide bike
rental fleet in August, and the numbers are impressive.
With 57 stations spread throughout Warsaw, Wilanow,
Ursynow and Bielany offering 1,120 bikes theres no ques-
tion youll be spotting the silvery fleet flying through the
citys streets. And why not try one yoursel f? The system
is ridiculously easy: set up an account online (en.veturilo.
waw.pl is the English-language site) and pay the initial
10zl fee. Once youre registered you can visit any of the
stations and select your ride, which has an individualized
code. Simply dial the enter your phone number, your PIN
and the bikes code, and youll receive the number to un-
lock the bicycle from the stand. Then youre off! The first
20 minutes are free, and from there you pay 1zl for 21-60
minutes, 3zl for the second hour, 5zl for the third, and 7zl
for each hour after that up to 12 hours. Theres a 200zl
fee for exceeding 12 hours, and a whopping 2,000zl cost
for replacing a lost or damaged bike so behave yoursel f.
When you return the bike, which can be done at any of
the stations, you make another phone call confirming the
return and youre finished.
Wygodny Rower C-3, Al. Jerozolimskie 4, tel. (+48)
888 94 99 49, www.wygodnyrower.pl. Choose from
two different styles of bicycles for cruising around the city.
A full day will cost 40z, 24 hours is 50z. Both require a
returnable deposit of 200zl. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
Bowling & Billiards
Arco Bowling Alley D-5, ul. Bitwy Warszawskiej
1920r. 19, tel. (+48) 22 668 75 91, www.arco-
bowling.pl. Two fl oors, 32 lanes, restaurant and club.
80-150z per l ane per hour, shoes and i nstructor i n-
cluded. QOpen 16:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun
12:00 - 22:00.
Klub ArenA A- 4, ul. Paska 61, tel. (+48) 22 620
47 08, www.bilard.waw.pl. Billiards fans can take ad-
vantage of Klub ArenAs multiple pool tables as well as
access to foosball, darts, a well-stocked bar and plenty
of space for lounging. Q Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 04:00.
LEISURE
Playground in azienki Park G-5, Al. Ujazdowskie.
Zoo C-1, ul. Ratuszowa 1/3, tel. (+48) 22 619 40 41,
www.zoo.waw.pl. Opened in 1928, Warsaw Zoo covers an
area of 40 hectares and attracts some 500,000 visitors each
year. Four elephants, a family of seals and a lion cub were
added to the current collection of reptiles, birds and tigers.
Conditions have improved dramatically in recent years, though
a visit here will do little to change any opinions you have on lock-
ing animals in cages. As with every major Warsaw landmark,
the zoo has plenty of war stories. It was bombed at the begin-
ning of the conflict and by 1945 all the animals had either been
killed, deported to the Third Reich, eaten by locals or escaped
into the wild. Zoo director, Jan abiski, became something of
a hero; wounded during the 1944 Uprising, abiski helped
save countless lives by sheltering Jewish orphans inside the
grounds of the zoo. The zoo officially re-opened in 1949. Q
Open from 09:00 till dusk. Last entrance 1 hour before closing.
Admission 18/13z. Children under 3 years free.
Racquet Sports
City Tennis Club G-6, ul. Merliniego 2, tel. (+48) 695
83 68 80, www.citysportsclub.pl. Located on ul. Merli-
niego, they offer tennis courts (55-90z/per hour), lessons
with an English-speaking instructor (45-160z/per hour),
equipment rental (by prior arrangement) and social lessons
for expats. QOpen 06:00 - 24:00.
Squash City Al. Jerozolimskie 179 (CH Blue City,
Ochota), tel. (+48) 22 499 64 66, www.squashcity.pl.
Nine air-conditioned courts. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun
09:00 - 22:00. Admission 30-65z.
Spa & Beauty
Franck Provost C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 58a, tel. (+48)
22 826 81 01, www.franckprovost.pl. French-trained
English-speaking stylists offering unisex hair treatment
and styling from 100z to 350z. Manicure and pedicure also
available as well as cosmetic products by LOreal and Ker-
astase. Also at (G-5) ul. Puawska 25a, which has expanded
spa services like massage and microdermabrasion. QOpen
07:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
Swimming
Aquapark Wesolandia ul. Wsplna 4 (Wesoa), tel.
(+48) 22 773 91 91, www.wesolandia.pl. Includes a
junior swimming pool, Jacuzzi, slide, fitness centre. Length
25m, depth 1.1-1.8m. Q Open 07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00
- 22:00. 12-17z per hour. All day tickets 19-31z.
Polna F-4, ul. Polna 7a, tel. (+48) 22 825 71 34, www.
osir-polna.pl. Includes a kids pool, sauna, Jacuzzi and water
slide. Length 25m, depth 1.25-1.8m. QOpen 06:30 - 21:30.
Admission 15/10z per hour.
Hulakula Bowling Al-
ley C-3, ul. Dobra 56/66
(University Library), tel.
(+48) 22 552 74 00,
www.hul akul a.com.pl .
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Wed
12:00 - 01:00, Thu 12:00 - 02:00, Fri 12:00 - 03:00, Sat
10:00 - 04:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. 20-120z per hour.
Shoes included.
Sungate Beauty & Spa B-3, Pl.
Powstacw Warszawy 2, tel. (+48)
517 01 28 80, www.spasungate.
pl. The menu of services available at
Sungate is staggering: from facials
and every imaginable type of massage
(shea butter to aromatherapy) to wax-
ing and nailcare they have you covered
from head to foot. Package for couples, women and
just regular folks who like to indulge are also available.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.
b e a u t y & s p a
118
119
LOCAL FOOTBALL LOCAL FOOTBALL
One of Polands biggest and most successful clubs is here in
the capital. Legia Warszawa was originally formed during WWI
as a club for the fighting legions and was officially established
as the army club in 1922. They have quite a history with eight
league titles and a record 13 cup triumphs to their name and
are one of only 2 Polish clubs to have qualified for the league
stage of the Champions League.
Formed as a club for Polish legionnaires in 1916, Legia were
twice removed from domestic football first as a result of
end of the First World War and then in 1937 when the clubs
board withdrew Legia from the league after promotion was
not achieved.
Al ways i denti fi ed wi th the mili tary, the club gained an
advantage from its official association with the army of
the Peoples Republic of Poland after 1949. This allowed
Legia to recruit whichever players they wanted with the
help of the law. (Basically come and play for Legia or do
your service in the army). Legias first domestic success
was the league and cup double which they won in 1955 and
which was repeated a year later. One of the leading figures
of that team was striker Lucjan Brychczy, a club legend and
holder of the records for both the most appearances (452)
and goals (227) in the clubs history.
Brought to the Polish capital officially for military service,
Brychczy remained at Legia for the rest of his career, win-
ning four Polish titles and cups before he retired in 1972.
Brychczy was pursued by both Real Madrid and AC Milan,
but the communist authorities ensured he stayed with their
team and he remained in Poland. Brychczy later went onto
manage Legia and was still involved in the coaching side
late into his 70s.
The clubs greatest success in Europe was achieved in
1970, when Legia reached the semi-finals of the European
Cup only to be eliminated by eventual winners Feyenoord of
Rotterdam. Under the tenure of, by now, manager Brychczy,
Legia also gave AC Milan a stern test in the quarter finals of
the 1972 Cup-Winners Cup, only to lose to an 118th minute
goal in the second match. The unquestioned star of that team
was Kazimierz Deyna.
Although Legia was one of leading clubs in Poland during the
eighties, the club had to wait more than twenty years for an-
other domestic title, despite winning a couple of Polish Cups
in the seventies and eighties. Wojskowi (which translates
to Military Men) sealed the championship in 1993, after
beating Wisa Krakow 6-0. However with their title rivals KS
also winning 7-1 that day to lose out on the championship on
goal difference, the Polish FA (PZPN) questioned both results
and after voting, without any proof, awarded the title to
third placed Lech Poznan. Both Legia and KS were banned
by UEFA as well. Legia did go on to win the next two titles.
The clubs recent history is as turbulent and largely connected
with the issue of ownership. Briefly the club had added a
sponsors title to its name, while the current owner, Polands
leading media tycoon, has been in regular conflict with the
fans. Legia is a club well-known for the passion of its sup-
port. Playing at the rebuilt Polish Army Stadium, the loudest
section is called yleta (Razorblade) and is where youll
find much of the atmosphere. This is created in part by the
production of huge banners which cover most of the home
support. These sometimes attract a lot of criticism such as
one displayed during the 2011/12 season when Legia met
Hapoel Tel-Aviv in the Europa League which had Legia Jihad
written on it and attracted widespread condemnation for the
club and the supporters.
Legia, who had last won the title in 2006, looked to be on
course for the 2011/12 title as they led the table with two
games to go, only to drop points and finish outside of top
three, losing out on the title to Slask Wroclaw.
Although Warsaws second club, Polonia Warszawa have
traditionally been seen as the poor neighbour, they are in
fact older than Legia having been formed in 1911 at a time
when Poland didnt even exist as a nation. Taking the name
Polonia (the Latin for Poland) the club represented something
of a protest to the ruling Russians and the black shirts for
which Polonia are known were also seen as a mark of mourn-
ing the missing country. With 2 league championships and
2 Polish cups, Czarne Koszule (The Black Shirts) have
a less successful history than their illustrious neighbours.
Their very first Polish title was won in 1946, when Warsaw
was still in ruins after the Second World War and Czarne
Koszule had to play at Legias Polish Army Stadium. Their
ground, found on ul. Konwiktorska, was destroyed during the
Warsaw Uprising in 1944. The Polish Cup, won in 1952, was
for decades their last trophy.
The drought was ended in 2000 when the team, led by the man
that would go onto lead Poland to the 2002 World Cup finals
Jerzy Engel, surprised everyone by winning the title against all
the odds. One of the stars of the side was the Polish national
sides first black footballer, Emmanuel Olisadebe, born in Nigeria
but given Polish citizenship with Engels support. The champi-
onship was sealed with a memorable 3-0 win over local rivals
Legia. Despite this the following years proved extremely tough
with the club relegated and very nearly going out of business.
Local developer and one of Polands richest men, Jzef
Wojciechowski, stepped in to save the club when it was in
the second division. Wojciechowski then effectively bought
promotion by buying Groclin Grodzisk Wielkopolski, an
Ekstraklasa club, and then replacing them with Polonia. De-
spite fans being against such a move at first, Wojciechowski
convinced them with promises of major investment.
The period of his ownership was one of the most controver-
sial in the history of Polish football. Having bought the club in
2006 Wojciechowski invested millions in dozens of players
that were later discarded and changed managers a stag-
gering seventeen times during his reign. Polonia did not win
the promised title and, after a woeful finish to the 2011/12
season, Wojciechowski vowed to end his interest in Czarne
Koszule. After a traumatic summer in 2012, when the club
saw most of its established players leave, the club was sold
for 1zl to Ireneusz Krol, a Polish businessman who had previ-
ously invested money in GKS Katowice. Rumours abounded
that the two clubs were to be merged with Polonia replaced in
the top division by the new hybrid which would have effectively
seen the end of Polonia as a professional football club. In
the end the club remained intact, now managed by the youth
team coach and featuring the few survivors from the previous
season and a large number of players promoted from the
youth set-up. Its fair to say that most Polonia fans are just
grateful that they still have a club to support.
Finally Warsaw is also home to the new National Stadium built
especially to host games in the Euro2012 championships. In
addition to football, the stadium plays host to everything from
concerts to conferences and is an excellent and extremely
well located venue, making it all the more surprising that
the Polish national side continues to rotate matches around
the country. A move to making this their permanent home
would do their chances of winning more games no harm at
all in our opinion.
Legi a War sz awa H- 4, ul .
azienkowska 3, tel. (+48) 22 318
20 00, www.legia.com. Legi as
redevel oped Pol i sh Army stadi um
at azienkowska (now renamed the
Legia Warszawa Pepsi Arena) means
that Warsaws biggest club now has a
31,000 seat stadium in which to play,
featuring two 7-ton video screens, a museum dedicated
to the history of the football club and its own TV stu-
di o. The best pl ace
to watch the game
from as a foreigner is
the East Stand (Try-
buna Wschodnia) and
you shoul d bri ng a
passport (not driving
licence) to buy tickets.
Upcomi ng matches
are as follows and are
subject to change due to TV schedules.
October 5, 20:30 - Wisa Krakw
October 27 - Piast Gliwice
November 10 - Jagiellonia Biaystok
November 24 - Widzew d
QTicket office open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00,
Sun 11:00 - 15:00. Matchdays open 11:00 until end of
1st half. Legia operate a dual category system for ticket
prices.Category I (bigger matches) and Category II. East
Stand tickets cost:
I category 60-120z, II category 45-90z. The following
discounts are available: Women - 30%, Students - 20%,
Seniors over 60 - 50%. Children up to 7 - free. Family
sector tickets - 40-54z per adult, children up to 13 - 1z.
Legia Warszawa
Polonia Warszawa A- 1, ul.
Konwiktorska 6 (entrance also
from ul. Bonifraterska), tel. (+48)
22 634 37 76, www.ksppolonia.
pl. Stadium capacity is 6,800 with
350 places reserved for opposing
supporters. Forei gn fans shoul d
buy tickets for the main
stand (Trybuna Gwna).
Note you shoul d bri ng
ID (passport or dri vers
license) in order to buy a
ticket. Upcoming games
are l i sted bel ow. Note
that some kick-off times
are subject to change for
live TV.
October 21, 17:00 - Ruch Chorzw
November 3-4 - Korona Kielce
November 17-18 - Grnik Zabrze
November 24-25 - Zagbie Lublin
QThe ticket office is open 11:00-19:00 from the Monday
prior to the game. Tickets 25-45z.
Polonia Warszawa
Museum of Legia Warszawa (Muzeum Legii
Warszawa) H-4, ul. azienkowska 3 (Pepsi Arena),
tel. (+48) 22 318 20 00, www.legia.com. Opened
in 2006 on the 90th anniversary of the club, this is a
museum dedicated to all things Legia including a display
of the shirts, caps and medals of one of Legias greatest
players - Kazimierz Deyna. A very worthwhile visit for fans
of all things football, the museum plots the clubs history
as the Army team through to today where it is one of the
best supported playing in a modern stadium which youll
find 10 minutes by taxi from the centre. Youll find the
museum in the North stand of Legias Pepsi Arena via
the main entrance. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 -
14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.
Museum of Legia
Nati onal Stadi um
H-2, Al. Ksicia J. Poni-
atowskiego 1, www.
stadionnarodowy.org.
pl. Easil y spotted from
across the ri ver i n Ol d
Town the new Nati onal
Stadi um has room for
58,000 fans and 860 journalists, while the construction
itself, with its red and white covering, was built using hun-
dreds of 45-metre support pillars driven into the ground
to stabilise the 25 metres of war rubble the stadium finds
itself atop. Priced at 1.2 billion PLN history buffs will note
that the Socialist era Relay statue at the entrance has
been preserved in a nod to the sites past heritage - it
was here that stood the Stadion Dziesiciolecia (10th
Anniversary Stadium), built in the 1950s to mark the
anniversary of the end of WWII. This was also the site
where, on September 8, 1968 in front of 100,000 people,
Ryszard Siwiec set himself alight in protest at the Soviet
led invasion of Czechoslovakia.
Nearly 50 years on this new National Stadium is a shining
example of how far Poland has come since those dark
days and is an exceptional place to watch the national
side with the excellent acoustics providing a deafening
atmosphere. The stadium is approximately 3km from the
area around the main train station and Palace of Culture
straight along Al. Jerozolimskie and can be reached
quickly and easily either by train, tram, bus or taxi. Take
a train or tram from outside of the Marriott hotel/Main
Railway station or take the local commuter train from
the Warszawa Srodmiescie station located close to the
main station (Warszawa Centralna).
National Stadium
KSP Polonia Warszawa
SSA
120
d may l ook l i ke i ts pro-
nounced Lodz, but it most cer-
tainly isnt. Think of it as Woodge,
and three hundred years ago a
visit here would have produced
the sight of little more than one
man and his dog. In terms of
age d is one of the young-
est cities in the country, and a
direct product of the Industrial
Revolution. And while d can-
not boast the twee charisma of
Prague and Krakw a scratch
of the surface rewards the intrepid traveller with a city
stuffed with wacky stories, dark history and some of the
countries finest after-dark venues youll find them all
inside our 13th issue of d In Your Pocket; Polands
first comprehensive English-language guide to the city.
d In Your Pocket
Getting there
Lodz lies 140km south west of Warsaw and is easily ac-
cessed by train. When modernization finishes Lodz will be
within an hours reach of Warsaw, but for the time being
journey time is around one hour and forty minutes, while they
continue to work on the new high speed link. If youre travelling
from the capital youll need to book a ticket running to d
Fabryczna train station. The city centre is directly across the
road from the main entrance: take the underpass and carry
on walking west and youll find yourself on the main street,
ulica Piotrkowska, within ten minutes. For longer journeys
taxis stand directly outside the main entrance, though travel-
lers should only use cabs that are clearly marked.
Some basics
d first appeared in written records in 1332 under the
name of odzia and remained little more than a rural back-
water for the following centuries, with a population numbering
just 800 as late as the 16th century.
The birth of modern d as we know it can be traced to 1820,
when statesman, philosopher and writer Stanisaw Staszic be-
gan a campaign to turn the Russian-controlled city into a centre
of manufacturing. The first cotton mill was opened in 1825
and by 1839 the first steam-powered factory in Poland and
Russia was officially christened. A massive influx of workers
from as far afield as Portugal, England and France flooded the
city, though the mainstay of the towns population remained
Poles, Germans and Jews. Within a matter of decades d
had grown into the biggest textile production centre in the
Russian Empire, during which time vast fortunes were made
and lost by the major industrialist families.
By the outbreak of WWI the town stood out as one of the
most densely populated cities on the planet with a popula-
tion of approximately 13,000 people per square kilometre.
But hard times were around the corner; the inter-war years
signaled an end to the towns Golden Age, and the loss of
Russian and German economic markets led to strikes and
civil unrest that were to become a feature of inter-war d.
Things were about to get worse: the outbreak of WWII saw
the city annexed into The Third Reich.
The following six years of occupation left the population
decimated with 120,000 Poles killed, and an estimated
300,000 Jews perishing in what was to become known as
the Litzmannstadt ghetto. Following the war, and with much
of Warsaw in ruins, d was used as Polands temporary
capital until 1948. The wholesale war-time destruction of
Warsaw also saw many of Polands eminent artists and
cultural institutes decamp to the nearest big city; that city
was d, and today the town can boast a rich cultural
heritage, with Polands leading film school, one of the most
important modern art galleries in Europe, and an exciting
underground culture.
Today d is a city slowly rediscovering itself, growing in
confidence and coming to terms with its patchy history.
Overlooked by many visitors to Poland, this is a city full of
hidden charms: from the awesome palaces that belonged to
the hyper-rich industrialists who made the city, to Europes
l ongest pedestrian street (Piotrkowksa) to the largest
municipal park in Europe. Youll find everything you need to
know about the city in our print guide to d, as well as our
full content online at www.inyourpocket.com.
Manufaktura
How many times have you heard a shopping centre call itself
More than a shopping centre? In the case of Manufaktura, for
once the hyperbole is entirely justified. For this is indeed more
than a shopping centre. In fact, we really shouldnt be calling
it a shopping centre at all. Covering a space of 150,000m
2

Manufaktura does of course feature a mall with endless
shopping opportunities, but that would not tell the full story.
Manufaktura today i s the resul t of Pol ands l argest
renovation project since the reconstruction of Warsaws
Old Town in the 1950s. Originally a series of factories that
were constructed in the latter part of the 19th century the
restoration of the old factories quite simply has to be seen to
be believed. Enter through the Poznaski gate, where workers
used to file through everyday on their way to the mills, and
youll arrive at the projects ground zero: the 30,000m
2
Rynek
(main square). Featuring Europes longest fountain the square
is the cultural hub, with restaurants, fitness club and IMAX
cinema crowded around it. A full program of events is planned
to keep things lively, including pop concerts, beer festival and
big screen showings of sports events.
Manufaktura is visited by close on 20 million visitors a year and
has become the new heart of the city. For the more languorous
character two electric tramlines have also been added to ferry
visitors from one end of the complex to the other. And in spite
all of this Manufaktura remains very much a work in progress
with new additions and changes happening all the time. The
complex can boast a state of the art 4-star Andels hotel, a
Museum of Art as well as the History of Lodz museum set in
the palace of the former mill owner Izrael Poznanski.
heteIs kestaurants Cafs kightIife 5ightseeing vents Maps
L00Z
5eptember - 0ecember zezz
N20 - 5z| (W lyr 8 vAT) |odz.|ryourpoc|el.cor l33N 189-119
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Holl ywoods strangest
director and his love
affair with Lodz
AII 5aints' 0ay
Experience one of the
countrys treasured
traditions
D
Zbigniew Kotecki, courtesy of d City Council
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122
SHOPPING
123
SHOPPING
Alcohol
Of course you didnt come to Poland just for the booze,
but while youre here itd be rude not to check out what the
country has to offer. Primarily that means vodka, with the two
most highly regarded clear Polish vodkas being Belvedere
and Chopin. Find them in any alcohol store. Others to watch
for include ubrwka - thats the one with the blade of bison
grass inside - krupnik, a sweet honey vodka, and winiwka,
a sickly sweet cherry drink usually consumed after meals.
Finally, check Goldwasser, a unique elixir characterized by the
22 karat gold flakes floating in it. Bottle shops are numerous
in Poland, as common as cabbage, though the ones we list
come guaranteed to have no tramps or underage teens.
Chopin Luxury A-4, ul. Zota 59 (Zote Tarasy), tel.
(+48) 22 222 01 03, www.chopinvodka.com. More than
an off-license, more like everything youve ever wished for
before embarking on a Leaving Las Vegas session. Expect
cream-of-the-crop alcohols of every name and origin, not just
Polish. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00.
Ekskluzywne Alkohole M&P E-3, ul. Paska 81/83,
tel. (+48) 22 652 85 22, www.wina-mp.pl. Wines and
assorted alcohol from Poland and across the world. QOpen
08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
Vinoteka La Bodega C-4, ul. Nowy wiat 6/12, tel.
(+48) 22 745 46 10, www.vinoteka.pl. A smart outlet
located in the building that used to serve as the home to the
Polish Communist party. Alongside a very good restaurant
find a retail outlet offering a wide range of wines from around
the world as well as high-end spirits and wine accessories.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 24:00.
Amber & Jewellery
Vodka isnt the only golden nectar popular in Poland; the
country is renowned for its amber and the craftsmen who
handsomely shape the fossilised resin into unique and cov-
eted pieces of jewellery. Come back from PL without bringing
baby some Baltic Gold and youve booked yourself a stint
in the doghouse. The best place to begin your search is the
Old Town, which is filled with purveyors of amber baubles.
Frey Wille C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 37, tel. (+48) 22 827
55 03, www.frey-wille.com. Fine jewellery and fashion ac-
cessories inspired by masters like Klimt and Mucha. QOpen
10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
Galeria Artystycznego Rzemiosa B-2, ul. witojaska
23/25, tel. (+48) 22 831 94 23. Old Town store filled with
all measure of amber options as well as glassware, all housed
immaculately behind glass cases. One of the only shops where
prices are clearly displayed on all of the pieces, which gets our
thumbs up. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.
Kelly Melu Al. Jerozolimskie 42, tel. (+48) 22 827 33
74, www.kellymelu.pl. The number of young men jostling
to make purchases for their sweethearts should tell you all
you need to know about Kelly Melu jewellery: its popular, its
stylish and its affordable. The brightly-coloured bracelets
with charms appear to be the current must-have. QOpen
11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
Mokobelle G-3, ul. Wilcza 3 (entrance at Mokotowska
54), tel. (+48) 607 07 37 15, www.mokobelle.pl. Mod-
ern jewellery from Polish and other European designers and
friendly staff thats eager to let you try it on. QOpen 11:00
- 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
W.Kruk C-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 11/19, tel. (+48) 661 98
05 74, www.wkruk.pl. Polish jewellery, amber and watches
from various international brand names including Emporio
Armani, Rolex, Omega, Tag Heuer, Maurice Lacroix, Longines,
Anne Klein. Watches only available at these locations: (C-4) Pl.
Trzech Krzyy 8, ul. Okopowa 58/72 (D-1, Klif) and Pl. Konstytucji
6 (F-4). QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
World of Amber B-2, ul. witojaska 11, tel. (+48)
22 831 16 00, www.worldofamber.pl. This is truth in ad-
vertising at its best. World of Amber is, literally, a world filled
with all things amber. Interested in a three-masted pirate ship
made of amber? How about a goblet trimmed in amber? A
glasses case? Beyond these unusual trinkets World of Amber
also has the usual beads, rings, neck-breaking pendants and
bracelets that are a must-have souvenir. The shop has a large
number of knowledgeable staff, which means youre never
left lingering over a glass case waiting in vain for service.
Which we like even more than the chess set made entirely of
amber. We swear. Also at (B-2) ul. witojaska 14, (B-2) ul.
Piwna 12/14 and (B-2) ul. Piwna 26. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.
Antiques & Art Galleries
A walk through the streets of old and new town is usually
enough to fulfil antiquarian designs, as will a short mooch
along Mokotowska. However, anybody whose anybody will
tell you the real treasures are found elsewhere, namely the
excellent Bazar Na Kole, an open-air market where haggling
and bargaining are considered de rigeur. For full details on
that check Markets. If youre planning on taking an artwork
out of the country, and it was produced prior to 1945, you
will need authorisation to permit you to do so. Most shops
will be able to provide you with this straight off the bat, but
do check beforehand.
Its not Dubai, its not Hong
Kong, its not Milan and its
not London. Warsaw has a
long way to go before its re-
garded as a shopping mecca,
but the city is seeing true
growth in the array of shops
available and the number of
big-name labels that are opening storefronts. Whether
its western style malls, designer boutiques, dusty family
stores or antique markets a day spent shopping can result
in both bargains and treasures, and theres presents to be
had for everyone on your list (including yourself).
Wife or girlfriend
When we think of what the ladies would like, one word
comes to mind: amber. Poland is well known as the
best place to find handsomely shaped fossilised resin,
and you can easily nab a piece that will please at the
appropriately named World of Amber or famed Polish
jeweller W. Kruk.
Husband or boyfriend
One word: vodka. Another word: lard. Take home Polands
famous nectar and a container of smalec (spreadable
lard) and youll make any man happy. Krakowski Kre-
dens carries tubs of the greasy stuff, while youll find
popular Polish vodka brands like ubrwka and Belvedere
at Chopin Luxury and M&P.
Brother
Euro 2012 may be over, but football is always popular in
Poland and Intersport at Zlote Tarasy carries all the
gear to get fully kitted out. Grab your brother an official
national team jersey in bright red and white and hell feel
like his sporting best.
Sister
If sis is a stylish gal head to Morka+in Saska Kepa for
the fashion-forward pieces created by Polish designer
Ewa Morka. For high-end options the new domMody
VITKAC is filled with name brands like Gucci and Alex-
ander McQueen, and the Likus Concept Store is one
of our fashion favourites.
Child
If youre looking for souvenir-y staples like bright red
Polska onesies and dolls dressed in traditional Polish
garb, look no further than Cepelia. For something on the
educational end of the spectrum we recommend you raid
the Science Store at the Copernicus Science Centre;
games, experiments and books for all ages await.
Mom
Give mom some monk-like zen with soaps and lotions
from Produkty Benedyktyskie, which carries a variety
of products created by the brothers at Tyniec Abbey in
Krakow. If she skews towards sweets then snag a box
Polish truffles at Pijalnie Czekolady Wedel.
Dad
If your dad is anything like ours he can lose hours of his
life in interesting vintage bookshops. Warsaw is packed
with them, and Antykwariat Lamus is one of the best
for old postcards, unique prints, old books and yellowing
maps from last century.
Shopping at a Glance
Anytkwariat Lamus B-1, ul. Nowomiejska 7, tel.
(+48) 22 831 63 21, www.lamus.pl. On first glance youll
spot the shelves packed with old books and encyclopaedias
and want to thumb your nose, but a further peek inside
Lamus reveals bins of prints waiting to be sifted through.
Old Warsaw cityscapes, drawings of Polish flora and fauna
and even the off bit of vintage erotica can be found by those
intrepid enough to dig, and the walls are hung with old maps
that are also for sale. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 -
15:00. Closed Sun.
Desa Modern H-5, ul. Bartycka 114, tel. (+48) 22
584 95 25, www.desamodern.pl. Modern art courtesy
of some of the biggest names in Polish contemporary art
circles. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Galeria aBo Art B-2, ul. Piwna 12/14, tel. (+48)
604 78 18 81, www.aboart.eu. Miniscule Old Town art
gallery that sells only works by Polish artists. Watercolours
of Old Town landmarks, metal art, painted silks, glassware
and jewellery all jumbled together for your perusal. A unique
local offering. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 18:00,
Sun 12:00 - 16:00.
Lapidarium B-1, ul. Nowomiejska 15/17, tel. (+48)
509 60 18 94, www.lapidarium.pl. We can (and probably
have) spend hours at Lapidarium wandering the cluttered
rooms filled with all manner of junk - - and we say that
with love. Old uniforms, reproduction propaganda posters,
busts of Lenin, ancient record players and even old farm
equipment fights for your attention here. Give yourself time
to wander and accumulate a weird selection for purchase.
How to spot this place? Look for the antique bicycle and
spindle sitting outside the entrance. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00,
Sun 13:00 - 19:00.
124
SHOPPING
125
SHOPPING
Van Den Berg Galeria Sztuki ul. Emilii Plater 12
lok. 1, tel. (+48) 512 57 62 01, www.galeriaberg.
com. Whats a South African doing in Warsaw? Selling
art, of course. And not just any art - customers will find
the work of Salvador Dali mingling with that of the owners
father Riaan Van Den Berg and Polish artists like Andrzej
Krawczak. Owner Adriaan Van Den Berg amiably guides
visitors through the collection, which includes biographies
of all the artists. A must-visit for devoted art collectors.
QOpen 11:30 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
Books, Music & Films
Good luck finding your morning paper, despite the millions
of flights that land each morning at Okcie most English
language dailys dont hit the shops until the afternoon,
sometimes not till the next day. The most comprehensive
source of foreign press can be found at EMPiK, though
Traffic and Relay (main hall of central train station) also
stock a smattering of titles. Also try the newsagents found
in five star hotels. As far as magazines are concerned,
EMPiK blows the competition out of the water, though you
can expect to pay a hefty mark-up for your mag of choice.
For books check out one of the American Bookstores scat-
tered around the city.
EMPiK C-4, ul. Nowy wiat 15/17, tel. (+48) 22 451
04 81, www.empik.com. A hefty selection of international
magazines and newspapers as well as music, video games
and movies. Theres also an EMPiK megastore nearby at
ul. Marszakowska 116/122 QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun
11:00 - 19:00.
Traffic Club C- 4, ul. Bracka 25, tel. (+48) 22 692
14 50, www.traffic-club.pl. Vast multi-level store selling
English-language books, DVDs, CDs and foreign language
press. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00.
Fashion & Accessories
The stylish denizens of Warsaws streets are an easy
indicator that fashion is important in the capital city. Trot
out anything less than your best and it wont go unnoticed,
we promise you. With the opening of dom mody VITKAC
the city has seen the arrival of major labels like Gucci and
Lanvin, and the Likus Concept Store is a reliable go-to for
the latest designer offerings. But you dont have to stick
to the big fashion houses here. Polish stores like Tatuum
and Morka+ offer distinct style at reasonable prices, so
ki t yoursel f out accordingl y. For lots of options in one
location check out Warsaws shopping centers like Zlote
Tarasy and Arkadia.
Bl i nd Concept Stor e C- 4, ul . Mokotowska
63/100, tel. (+48) 501 77 06 61. The word quirky was
invented for shops like this one, whi ch sells everything
from neon-col oured rubber flats to tote bags covered
i n skul l s. Ecl ecti c j ewel l er y and bi zarre kni ckknacks
(cupcake-fl avoured l i pgl oss, anyone?) round out the
experi ence. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00.
Cl osed Sun.
Carolina Herrera C-4, ul. Mysia 5, tel. (+48) 22 412
36 00, www.carolinaherrera.com. The eponymous high-
end designer opens her first Warsaw store for women loyal
to great style. Find clothing, accessories and fragrances
inside this elegant showroom. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sun
11:00 - 16:00.
Likus Concept Store C-3, ul. Bracka 9, tel. (+48)
22 310 73 13, www.likusconceptstore.pl. The Likus
Concept Stores are one of the leading designer brand
retailers in Poland and Warsaws version is now housed at
the high-end dom mody VITKAC shopping centre, where it
rubs shoulders with labels like Balenciaga and Alexander
McQueen. Which should tell you straight away that Likus
is no slouch when it comes to fashion: the new store is
well stocked with all the Lanvin, Jimmy Choo and Yves
Saint Laurent you could ask for. The decor of washed grey
walls and shelves of old books - and dont miss the antler
chandelier near the dressing rooms - make it look like the
most stylish library on earth. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Sun
11:00 - 18:00.
Maciej Zie C-4, ul. Mokotowska 57, tel. (+48) 519
00 00 49, www.zien.pl/pl/butiki. A well-known name
in the Polish fashion industry, Maciej Zie is a Lublin-born
designer whose collections can be found in magazines and
on Polish stars. That said, the store is less intimidating than
Zies credentials so pop in and browse. QOpen 11:00 -
19:00. Closed Sun.
Moliera 2 B-2, ul. Moliera 2, tel. (+48) 22 827 70
99, www.moliera2.com. Exclusive two level boutique
featuring collections by Valentino, Salvatore Ferragamo and
Ralph Lauren. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sun.
Morka + ul . Jana Styki 1 (entrance f rom ul .
Zwycizcw, Saska Kpa), tel. (+48) 505 82 75 50,
www.morkaplus.com. This postage stamp-sized Saska
Kpa boutique is filled with the simple styles of local Pol-
ish designer Ewa Morka. Designs cover casual and dress
attire, and accessories like handbags and jewelry are also
on display. Browsing in this mini-boutique will take minutes;
its deciding how to spread out your budget to cover all
your wants that takes times. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat
11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Secret Life (of things) F-4, ul. Polna 18/20, tel. (+48)
22 412 48 11, www.secretlife.pl. Its hard to know how
to classify Secret Life since their bright, airy shop is home to
so many different things: theres a case of unique jewellery,
a room devoted to clothes and shoes, a pile of handbags,
and then a scattering of funky home decor items and knick-
knacks that demand your attention. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00,
Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
TFH Tymczasowy Butik B-4, ul. Szpitalna 8a, tel.
(+48) 509 74 17 89. This one-time pop-up shop has set
down roots finally, which means youll know exactly where to
find the citys hottest fashions. TFHs new boutique displays
an impressive selection of stylish t-shirts, handbags and
hoodies from over 20 of Polands young fashion designers,
including Rozwadowska Bags, Alicja Saar and Odio Tees.
Dont forget to check out the accessories and large pictorial
books about - what else? - fashion. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00,
Sun 11:00 - 19:00.
Food & Sweets
Food-wise Poland has plenty of edible delights that will
tempt (or shock) your friends, from delicious sausages and
preserves to jars of smalec (yep, thats spreadable lard for
your bread). Dine in true Polish style long after youve leapt
the border by bringing home traditional staples or any number
of the hearty sweets that end every Polish meal.
Delikatesy Blikle C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 35, tel. (+48)
22 828 63 25, www.blikle.pl. Aside from homemade
cakes and eclairs Polands most famous confectioner can
boast killer donuts, once enjoyed by a certain Charles de
Gaulle. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 14:00.
Odzieowe Pole G-3, ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. (+48) 696
04 95 68. With no sign out front at this new location theres a
good chance youll trot right past Odzieowe Pole and not realise
what youre missing. Dont. Modern city fashion calls this funky
boutique home, and theres even a coffee bar offering lattes
while you browse. Find everything from work attire to cocktail
dresses on offer, including a stylish selection of accessories.
Pl. Trzech Krzyy 3/4 F-4, ul. Hoa 1, tel. (+48) 22
622 14 16, www.plactrzechkrzyzy.com. Label-conscious
shoppers will delight in the mix of designers like Ralph
Lauren, Moncler, Salvatore Ferragamo and TODs that are
spread across mens and womens apparel and accessories.
Displays of pristinely-folded sweaters are immaculate, and
the staff is eager to search for any size - and have an ency-
clopaedic knowledge of which celebrities are sporting which
style. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
Non-EU residents are entitled to claim
a VAT refund when the purchased
goods are exported in an unused
condition outside the EU in personal
luggage. Shop wherever you see the
Global Blue logo. The minimum total
purchase value with VAT per Tax Free
Form is 200pln. Keep the Tax Free
Form, have it stamped when leaving
the final point of departure from the EU and reclaim
your money. For full details check www.global-blue.com.
TAX FREE SHOPPING - GLOBAL BLUE
2 STAMP IT
3 REFUND
1 GET IT
Once youve found that perfect item, remember to ask the shop
staff for a Tax Free Form when youre paying for it.
Tax Free Shopping

For more details contact:
Global Blue Polska Sp. z o. o.
Phone: +48 22 500 18 51
e-mail: taxfree.pl@global-blue.com
www.global-blue.com
As a traveler residing in a
non-EU country you are entitled
to claim back the VAT on your
purchases when you bring them
home.
You will find Global Blue Tax
Free Shopping service in the
major shops of Poland.
Spend a minimum of 200PLN,
and save up to 12% of the
purchase price.
When youre leaving the country to head home
or to continue your journey, take your
purchases, receipt and passport to the customs
desk to get your Tax Free Form stamped. If
youre travelling on to another EU country, get
the stamp on your Tax Free Form at your final
point of departure from the EU.
Finally, show your stamped Tax Free Form and
passport to our staff at Global Blue Customer
Services or one of our partner refund points and
theyll issue your refund immediately.
I f youre visiting Poland and plan to pay for any pur-
chases with a credit card whose base currency isnt
Polish zloty (and unless youre Polish, this probably
means you) odds are you may find merchants asking
whether you want to be charged in your home cur-
rency or zlotys. At times (though this is more rare) its
not even a question the merchant will simply take it
upon himsel f to charge your credit card in your home
currency, no questions asked. Dont fall into the trap of
thinking your credit card company wont charge a foreign
transaction fee i f you opt to be charged in your native
currency; crossing the border is what they care about,
not the currency. And thats just one of the reasons why,
when given the choice, its in the best interest of your
wallet to choose zlotys.
Why? Because the companies that process credi t
card transactions typically tack on fees for converting
the money, and then do so at a lousy exchange rate.
Depending on the size and number of your purchases
while in Poland, the cost can really add up. Visitors will
have to be vigilant and monitor receipts when paying
with a credit card, and should you be charged in a di f-
ferent currency put your foot down. Merchants dont
benefit from those additional fees, only the company
that processes the transaction does. So be firm about
asking to have your purchase refunded and done over
again in zlotys.
Credit card charges
126
SHOPPING
127
SHOPPING
Arkadi a D- 1, Al .
Jana Pawa II 82, tel.
(+48) 22 323 67 67,
www.arkadia.com.
pl. If you cant find it in
Arkadia, you probably
never will. Covering a
total area of 287 000
m2 Arkadia stands out
as the biggest shopping mall in Central Europe. The five
floor leviathan contains everything you need to survive
Warsaw, so its little wonder we know of people who
spend their lives stalking around its corridors; approxi-
mately 45,000 - 70,000 people visit each day. It took
three years of work to complete, and now houses fashion
stores include Lacoste, Peek & Cloppenburg and Tommy
Hilfiger, as well as ubiquitous high street chains like Zara,
Esprit and Kappahl. A giant Saturn store takes care of
all your electronic needs: from DVDs to sound systems.
Carrefour takes a large chunk of the ground floor, though
most expats are making a beeline for the first Mark &
Spencers food department in the country. If you cant find
what youre after in there then head to Kuchnie wiata.
The shop is tiny but is home to everything from Marmite
and Pirri Pirri sauce to Weetabix, Cadburys Chocolate
and Dr Pepper. English language books are available
from American Bookstore, and foreign press from EM-
PiK. Entertainment comes in the form of a 15 screen
multiplex. Alongside some very decent dining options
is the microbrewery Bierhalle. Serving homemade beer
and plates of sausages, this is exactly the place to leave
the other half where he will be delightfully happy for a few
hours. Connected by 10 tram lines, 15 bus routes and
with space for 4,000 vehicles. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00,
Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
FACTORY Outl et Pl .
Czerwca 1976r. 6 (Ursus),
tel. (+48) 22 478 22 70,
www.factory.pl. This outlet
centre is preoccupied with
fashion, offering top brand
names at 30-70% discounts
over other shopping malls. Recognisable names among
the brands include Pepe Jeans, Wrangler, Wittchen and
more. One of the only such outlet centres in Europe, you
can access it by taking the SKM train from rdmiecie
and getting off at SKM Ursus, or by catching bus 127 at
Dworzec Centralny and switching to bus 194 or 716 at
PKP Wlochy. Your final destination will be Ursus-Ratusz.
QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
dom handlowy VITKAC C-4, ul. Bracka 9, tel.
(+48) 22 310 73 13, www.vitkac.com. The giant
glowing Gucci sign will be your first hint that this isnt
your typical shopping centre, and the heavy security is
the second. Shoppers can find the popular Likus Con-
cept Store on the main level of the sprawling structure
while abels like Givenchy, Armani, Dsquared2, Alexander
McQueen and Yves Saint Laurent are spread over the
remaining four levels of shopping space, with roughly
three employees available for every browsing customer.
The atmosphere is more museum than mall, but if youre
looking to splurge on designer names then this is your
headquarters. If maxing out your credit card works up
an appetite be sure to head to Restauracja Concept 13,
which offers sweeping city views in a modern, open-con-
cept space. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
Shopping malls
Z ote Tarasy A- 4, ul .
Zota 59, tel. (+48) 22 222
22 00, www.zlotetarasy.
pl. Warsaws monstrous train
station now has a new neigh-
bour - the sparkl i ng Zote
Tarasy compl ex. Of fi ci al l y
opened on February 7, 2007
by Warsaw mayor, Hanna
Gronkiewicz Waltz, the first
afternoon alone saw 64,000
people file through the doors.
The 250 million Euro project
includes 225,000m2 of office, retail and entertainment
space, with underground parking for 1,600 cars. Draw-
ing more than million visitors each month the complex
signals a bold shi ft away from the out-of-town malls
found in Warsaw, and familiar stores include Marks &
Spencers, Aldo, Polands first Body Shop, Hugo Boss,
Van Graf clothes store and EMPiK. For leisure, visitors
can not only visit Polands first Hard Rock Caf which
is split over 2 levels, but also a multiplex cinema and
more than 20 restaurants and bars spread over 5 levels,
including a Burger King. Designed by Jerde Partnership
International (whose founder, Jon Adams Jerde, designed
the Olympic Village for LA 1984), the central showpiece is
a 10,000m glass dome, fitted with a special mechanism
to both filter sunrays and to stop snow from building up.
Q Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00.
Kl i f D- 1, ul . Okopowa
58/72, tel. (+48) 22 531
45 00, www.kli f.pl. The
nati onwi de Kl i f chai n have
long been present in Warsaw,
though if you think youve seen
it all before then think again.
These chaps have rebranded
and re-launched with October
2008 refit resulting in the addi-
tion of new floors, an updated
design and a thorough facelift.
But as with all shopping centres the proof comes in the
pudding, ie the tenants. Now on show are top tags from
MaxMara to PennyBlack, as well outlets for casual faves
like Paul & Shark. For the juniors watch for Casper and
Mothercare. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Krakowski Kredens C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 22, tel. (+48)
696 49 00 11, www.krakowskikredens.pl. Upmarket Pol-
ish delicatessen selling jams, compotes, hams and cheeses.
Also on ul. Zota 59 (Zote Tarasy). Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun
09:00 - 21:00. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00,
Sun 11:00 - 14:00.
Manufaktura Cukierkw C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 21, tel.
(+48) 692 88 87 51, www.manufaktura-cukierkow.pl.
More an experience than a shopping venue, Manufaktura
Cukierkw puts candymaking on display with a large open
space that lets customers watch as the candy is being art-
fully created in front of their eyes. Children are understand-
ably the shops biggest draw as they stand dazzled by the
production process. The final product isnt bad either, with
flavours like lemon honey and cola popping off your tongue.
QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Mon 11:00 - 20:00.
Pijalnie Czekolady Wedel B-3, ul. Szpitalna 8, tel.
(+48) 22 827 29 16, www.wedelpijalnie.pl. A Pol -
ish legend thats been operating since Karol Wedel first
opened a chocolate factory in 1851. Check the handmade
pralines. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun
10:00 - 21:00.
Produkty Benedyktyskie A-2, Al. Jana Pawa II
43a/35, tel. (+48) 22 838 21 02, www.benedicite.pl.
This shop, set up by the Benedictine monks of Tyniec Abbey,
sells such an astounding variety of products - cheese, jam,
wine, beer, honey, tea, herbs, syrups, meats - it raises two
eyebrows over how they find the time. All the products are
completely natural, without pigment, and unilaterally excel-
lent and make excellent gifts and can even be purchased
through their (Polish only) website.QOpen 10:00 - 19:00,
Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
NEW
SAM C-2, ul. Lipowa 7a, tel. (+48) 600 80 60 84, www.
sam.info.pl. If youre looking to stock up on fresh produce,
roasted coffee beans, the best homemade breads and all the
necessary staples for your kitchen you can do no better than
SAM, which is tucked inside this restaurant/bakery near the
University library. Organic and local is the name of the game,
and its always worthwhile to grab a meal before you lug
your haul home.QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Mon 12:00 - 20:00.
Gifts & Souvenirs
Polish glass and amber are highly thought of, though if you
want something clutz-proof then Polish linen, lace and wood-
work all look lovely on someone elses mantle. Folk art is an
easily recognizable symbol of Poland, as is a magnet of the
countrys favorite hero and saint-in-waiting Pope John Paul II.
For the lads, pick up a Polski football shirt or scarf off any of
the stalls that spring up unannounced around central station.
Artis Galeria Sztuki Uytkowej F-3, ul. Emilii Plater
47, tel. (+48) 22 620 59 30, www.artisgaleria.pl. Folkish
souvenirs including religious icons, angels, dolls, tapestries and
carvings. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Art Manus G-4, ul. Mokotowska 41, tel. (+48) 22 627
21 04. Top quality Polish made linen on a street renowned
for its boutique elegance. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00
- 16:00. Closed Sun.
Bolesawiec Pottery A-4, ul. Prosta 2/14, tel. (+48)
22 624 84 08, www.ceramicboleslawiec.com.pl.
Brightly patterned hand-finished ceramics and tableware.
Cepelia B-4, ul. Marszakowska 99/101, tel. (+48)
22 628 77 57, www.cepelia.pl. Your first stop for tacky
souveniers. Amongst the tat also find traditional Polish handi-
crafts: table cloths, ceramics, glass etc. Also at ul. Krucza
23 (C-4) and ul. Chmielna 8 (C-3). QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat
10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Intersport A- 4, ul. Zota 59 (Zote Tarasy), tel.
(+48) 12 444 88 88, www.intersport.pl. I f youre
a fan of the Polish nati onal football team this is your
HQ for all the of fi cial gear, from j erseys to shorts to the
balls themsel ves. Also a great spot for general sports
apparel shoul d you require i t. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00,
Sun 09:00 - 20:00.
Neptunea B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 47/51,
tel. (+48) 22 827 97 05, www.neptunea.pl. A weird little
find selling decorative sea shells, minerals, fossils, silver
jewellery, oriental furniture and exotic crafts. An absolute
treasure, and a must visit if youre looking for a something
a little unique. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sun.
Rock Shop B-4, ul. Zota
59 (Z ote Tarasy), tel .
(+48) 22 222 07 00, www.
hardrockcafe.pl. You know
a ci ty has made i t when i t
gets a Hard Rock Cafe and is
there anything which says Ive
been there more than a Hard
Rock Cafe t-shirt? Ahem. Pick
up the Warsaw one to add to your collection at the shop
inside the HRC in the Zote Tarasy development opposite the
train station. Classic t-shirts cost 99z, all others run 105z.
QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.
Markets
Cheapskates rejoice, while the closure of The Russian
Market hit bargain hunters hard Warsaw still has a very
decent spread of bazaars. While rumours of pickpockets are
at times exaggerated, do nonetheless exercise a degree of
vigilance while perusing the swag on show.
Koo Bazar D-2, ul. Obozowa 99, tel. (+48) 22 836
23 51. Quality flea market held each weekend from dawn
till dusk. Attracting buyers and sellers from across the
country this is exactly the place i f youve ever wanted to
own a Prussian helmet or set of palace doors from India
(yours for 16,000z). What else can you find? Weve spot-
ted pre-war posters advertising Polish toothpaste, early
19th century postcards, prewar bathroom fixtures and
grandfather clocks. Vinyl records go for as little as 1z.
Youll even find the occasional celeb looking for something
wacky to fill their top-floor penthouse with. The traders
themselves are a set of curious characters, and watching
these veterans at work is one reason alone to visit. While
early morning is the best time to snap up the rare finds,
1pm on the closing Sunday is the time to hit to try and
get the last minute bargains. The golden rule is to haggle
at all times. Paying the asking price means overpaying.
QOpen 06:00 - 17:00.
Photography Market F-5, ul. Batorego 10 (Stodoa
Club). Discount camera equipment inside the Stodoa
ni ghtclub. Lenses, lamps, fil ters, negati ves etc. Hi ghl y
recommended for those who take their photography seri-
ously and know what they are looking for. Q Open Sun
10:00-14:00.
128
DIRECTORY
129
DIRECTORY
France G-4, ul. Pikna 1, tel. (+48) 22 529 30 00,
www.ambafrance-pl.org.
Germany G-4, ul. Jazdw 12, tel. (+48) 22 584 17 00,
www.warszawa.diplo.de.
Ireland C-4, ul. Mysia 5, tel. (+48) 22 849 66 33, www.
embassyofireland.pl.
Israel F-4, ul. Krzywickiego 24, tel. (+48) 22 597 05
00, www.israel.pl.
Italy F-2, Pl. Dbrowskiego 6, tel. (+48) 22 826 34 71,
www.ambvarsavia.esteri.it.
Lithuania G-3, Al. Ujazdowskie 14, tel. (+48) 22 625
33 68, pl.mfa.lt.
Netherlands H-4, ul. Kawalerii 10, tel. (+48) 22 559
12 00, www.nlembassy.pl.
Norway G-4, ul. Chopina 2a, tel. (+48) 22 696 40 30,
www.amb-norwegia.pl.
Russia G-5, ul. Belwederska 49, tel. (+48) 22 621 34
53, www.rusemb.pl.
Spain G-4, ul. Myliwiecka 4, tel. (+48) 22 583 40 00.
Sweden G-5, ul. Bagatela 3, tel. (+48) 22 640 89 00,
www.swedenabroad.com/warsaw.
United Kingdom G-4, ul. Kawalerii 12, tel. (+48) 22
311 00 00, www.ukinpoland.fco.gov.uk.
USA G-4, Al. Ujazdowskie 29/31, tel. (+48) 22 504 20
00, poland.usembassy.gov.
Dentists
CCS Ludna G-3, ul. Ludna 10a, tel. (+48) 22 625 01
02, www.ccsludna.pl.
DentaLux D-6, ul. Racawicka 131, tel. (+48) 22 823
72 22, www.dentalux.pl.
Emergency Rooms
Szpital Kliniczny Dziecitka Jezus A-4, ul. Lindleya
4, tel. (+48) 22 502 15 25, www.szpital-clo.med.pl.
Szpital na Solcu G-2, ul. Solec 93, tel. (+48) 22 250
62 26, www.cmsolec.pl.
Ex-Pat Organizations
Alcoholics Anonymous B- 4, ul. Radna 14 flat 3,
www.warsawaa.org. Meetings on Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu
18:30, Fri 20:30 and Sat at 11:00. Meetings at ul. Poznan-
ska 38 on Wed at 12:00 and Sun at 13:30. For more info
visit the website.
Fantasy Role-Playing Group, tel. (+48) 505 441
271, creativecowboy@yahoo.com. English-language
players welcome for game that constructs collective story
narratives using high-level language communication and a
few simple rules. Wholesome fun, with newcomers always
welcome and encouraged. Contact R.A. for dates, times
and locations.
Internati onal Womens Group of Warsaw,
www.iwgwarsaw.eu. Meeti ngs are hel d twi ce a month
on the second Monday at the Sofi tel between 10:30
and 12:30, and on the fourth Monday of the month at
Zol ta Kaczka i n Zote Tarasy (A-4, ul. Zota 59) between
10:00 and 11:00.
For more information see www.iwgwarsaw.eu or contact
iwgwarsaw@yahoo.com
Genealogy
National Archive B-1, ul. Krzywe Koo 7, tel. (+48) 22
635 92 68, www.warszawa.ap.gov.pl.
Registry Office E-1, ul. Andersa 5, tel. (+48) 22 443
12 30, www.um.warszawa.pl.
International schools
American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202,
Konstancin-Jeziorna, tel. (+48) 22 702 85 00, www.
aswarsaw.org.
Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupry ul. Nobla 16 (Praga
Poudnie), tel. (+48) 22 616 14 99, www.saint-exupery.pl.
International American School ul. Dembego 18
(Ursynw), tel. (+48) 22 649 14 40, www.ias.edu.pl.
International European School ul. Wiertnicza
140 (Wilanw), tel. (+48) 22 842 44 48, www.ies-
warsaw.pl.
The British School ul. Limanowskiego 15 (Mokotw),
tel. (+48) 22 842 32 81, www.thebritishschool.pl.
Language schools
Edu&More B- 4, ul. Marszakowska 87 lok.81, tel.
(+48) 22 622 14 41, www.polishonlinenow.com. Go
from seeing Polish as a pile of consonants to fluency with
the fast and effective tutors at Edu & More. Individual and
group lessons are tailor made to your capabilities, learn
business Polish to help with your job and busy students can
opt for online lessons. Bonus: your initial meeting with a
tutor is free of charge.
The Centre for Polish Studies B-3, ul. witokrzyska
20, tel. (+48) 22 826 19 04, www.learnpolish.edu.pl.
Private clinics
Damian Hospital G-3, ul. Foksal 3/5, tel. (+48) 22 566
22 22, www.damian.pl. English-speaking doctors available.
Lux-Med A-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Ho-
tel), tel. (+48) 22 33 22 888, www.luxmed.pl. Also on
ul. Domaniewska 41a, ul. 17 Stycznia 49, Al. Jana Pawa II 78
(E-1), ul. Bobrowiecka 1 (H-6) and ul. Wooska 7.
Real estate
Knight Frank C-3, ul. Mokotowska 49, tel. (+48) 22
596 50 50, www.knightfrank.com.pl.
Ober-Haus Real Estate Advisors B-4, Al. Jerozolim-
skie 123a, tel. (+48) 22 528 54 54, www.ober-haus.pl.
Long established experts in residential, office, logistics and
retail real estate, both in Poland and the Baltics. Founded
in 1994 the database includes all types of large and small
flats, luxury suites, houses and villas.
Religious Services
St Pauls English Speaking Catholic Parish C-3, ul.
Radna 14, tel. (+48) 600 38 49 16, www.warsawcatho-
lics.pl. English-language mass held each Sunday at 11:30.
Relocation companies
AGS Worldwide Movers ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno,
tel. (+48) 22 702 10 72, www.agsmovers.com. Take the
stress out of an international move with reliable AGS, who offer
a range of independent services to complement their turnkey re-
movals solutions. Free quotes can be requested via their website.
Move One Relocations F-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79,
tel. (+48) 22 630 81 69, www.moveoneinc.com.
PRO Relocation B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel.
(+48) 22 630 61 00, www.prorelo.com.
Translators & Interpreters
Komputekst ul. Midzyborska 82 (Praga-Poudnie),
tel. (+48) 22 825 40 50, www.komputekst.pl.
24-hour pharmacies
Apteka G-5, ul. Puawska 39, tel. (+48) 22 849 37 57,
www.apteka.jollymed.pl.
Apteka Beata E-2, Al. Solidarnoci 149, tel. (+48)
22 620 08 18.
Business associations
American Chamber of Commerce F-3, Warsaw
Financial Centre, ul. Emilii Plater 53, tel. (+48) 22 520
59 99, www.amcham.pl.
British Polish Chamber of Commerce F-3, ul.
Nowogrodzka 12/3, tel. (+48) 22 622 20 56, www.
bpcc.org.pl.
Computer repair
Cartridge World ul. Marszakowska 58, tel. (+48) 22
622 81 24, www.cartridgeworld.pl.
iSource C-2, ul. Dobra 56/66 (University Library),
tel. (+48) 22 550 86 86, www.isource.pl. Authorized
Appl e products servi ce poi nt. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Consulates & Embassies
Australia B-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 11, tel. (+48) 22 521
34 44, www.australia.pl.
Austria H-5, ul. Gagarina 34, tel. (+48) 22 841 00 81,
www.ambasadaaustrii.pl.
Canada C-4, ul. Matejki 1/5, tel. (+48) 22 584 31
00, www.canada.pl.
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Get a rouno-up of the
ma|or Polish news, business,
entertainment ano sports
in English each week by
subscribing free to our PDF.
Visit us at
www.newpolanoexpress.pl
I
t took fve seconds to transform Po-
land from a country bustling with
confdence into one wracked with
grief on a scale not seen since the Second
World War.
At some point on a nondescript Saturday
morning on April 10, the aircraf carrying
the president, his wife and 94 others
clipped a tree with its lef wing as it
approached Smolensk airport in western
Russia. Five seconds later, now devoid of
one wing, it barrel rolled anti-clockwise,
before slamming roof frst into the ground.
As news of the accident broke in Poland,
and one by one television channels
interrupted their regular services, news
readers struggled to contain their emotions
as they realised the devastating blow the
Smolensk disaster had dealt the country.
Along with President Kaczynski, and
Maria his wife, the casualty list read like a
whos who of the Polish elite.
Te head of the national bank, the
chief of the armed forces, the heads of the
navy and air force, two ministers, leading
politicians and dozens of others. Many
household names in Poland; now all dead.
Te irony that the Tupolev Tu-154
crashed at it was carrying a delegation
to mark the 70th-anniversary of the
Katyn massacre, when Stalins henchman
slaughtered Polands best, was not lost.
Te Soviets killed Polish elites in Katyn
70 years ago. Today, the Polish elite died
there while getting ready to pay homage to
the Poles killed there, said Lech Walesa.
Aleksander Kwasniewski, another
former president, described Katyn as a
cursed place, and of horrible symbolism.
As Poles absorbed what Donald Tusk
called the most tragic event in Polands
post-war history thousands began to
make their way to the presidential palace
in central Warsaw, which was to become
the focal point of national mourning.
A small patch of fowers and candles
lef by mourners expanded and grew,
carpeting the pavement and the road in
a tribute to those who had died. Political
diferences vanquished by grief, thousands
upon thousands of people made their way
to the palace to pay their respects in quiet
dignity.
The outpouring of sympathy for the
victims spoke volumes for the shock
and sadness that had touched Poles; it
also spoke volumes for the decency of
Poland.
At noon on Sunday across the nation two
minutes silence was observed in memory
of the people that died in the air crash in
Smolensk. Te silence was then pierced by
the claxons and sirens of local authority
warning systems and police vehicles. To
this mournful orchestra of wails, the Pol-
ish nation stood to attention and refected
on their loss in the forests near Katyn.
Te parents of the pilot in charge of fying
the presidential plane have begged the world
not to blame their son for the crash.
Captain Arkadiusz Protasiuka was the
man responsible for landing the Polish
Air Force Tu-154M safely in Russia on
Saturday 10th April, but, for reason still
unknown, he was unable to successfully
carry out his task.
Te tragic death of the head of the
National Bank of Poland Slawomir
Skrzypek in Saturdays plane crash leaves
questions open about who will replace
him, and how his loss will afect monetary
policy and other issues.
Te succession issue is a major one, since
both the parliament and the president
must make the choice jointly.
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Issue 15 ()
Warsaws Presidential Palace has become the focal point of the nations grief
Changing money is increasingly less fretful to do, but
as with most international destinations it is still worth
keeping checking rates particularly at entry points such
as airports or in major tourist areas. We check rates of
a selection of money exchange offices (kantors) every
two months. Here were their buying rates (how many
zloty you would get for one unit of foreign currency) for
the 17.09.12 compared to the following National Bank
of Poland (NBP) published rates for that morning of Euro
1 = 4,0289z, US$ 1 = 3,0657z, GBP 1 = 4,9718z.
Aurex C-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 33, tel. (+48) 22 626
92 60, www.aurex.biz.
1 Euro = 4.13zl,
1 Dollar = 3.16zl,
1 Pound = 5.08zl,
No commission.
Kantor A-4, Zote Tarasy, ul. Zota 59 (level 0), tel.
(+48) 22 222 12 34.
1 Euro = 4.00zl,
1 Dollar = 3.04zl,
1 Pound = 4.94zl,
No commission.
Pekao SA ul. wirki i Wigury 1 (Warsaw Frederick
Chopin Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650 51 88, www.
pekao.com.pl.
1 Euro = 3.75z,
1 Dollar = 2.91z,
1 Pound = 4.63z,
5% commission for euro and pound, 3% for dollars.
Currency exchange
Boutique
1 - ul. Nowomiejska
2 - ul. Piesza
3 - ul. Fandaminskiego
1
2
3
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All you need to
know about where
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136
STREET REGISTER
137
1 Sierpnia D-6/7
29 Listopada H-4
Aleje Ujazdowskie C-4, (G-3/5)
Andersa, gen. A-1/2 (E-1/2)
Anielewicza A-2 (D/E-1/2)
Archiwalna D-5
Armii Ludowej, al. F/H-4
Bagatela G-4/5
Bagno B-3
Banachago D/E-5
Bankowy, pl. A-2 (F-2)
Barbary, w. B-4, (F-3)
Barokowa B-2
Barona D-2
Batorego E/F-5
Bednarska B/C-2
Bellottiego D-2
Belwederska G-5/6
Biaa A-3 (E-2)
Biaobrzeska D-4/5
Bielaska B-2 (F-2)
Bitwy Warszawskiej 1920 r. D-4/5
Bobrowskiego D-5
Boduena B-3
Bohaterw Getta A-2 (E/F-1)
Bohdanowicza D-6
Bole B-1
Boni fraterska A/B-1
Bracka C-4
Browarna C-2/3 (G-2)
Brylowska D-3
Brzeska H-1
Brzozowa B-1
Bugaj B-1/2
Bytnara F-6/7
Canaletta B-2
Celna B-1/2
Chaubiskiego A/B-4 (F-3/4)
Chemska H-6
Chodna A-3 (D/E-2)
Chmielna A-4, B/C-3/4, (E-3, F-3)
Chocimska G-5
Chodkiewicza E-5/6
Chopina G-4
Ciasna B-1
Ciepa A-3 (E-2)
Cicha C-3
Corazziego B-2
Czackiego B-3 (F-2)
Czerniakowska G/H-3
Czerska H-5/6
Czeska H-2
Dbrowskiego, pl. B-3 (F/G-6)
Dawna B-1/2
Defilad, pl. B-4 (F-3)
Dickensa D-5
Duga A/B-1/2 (F-1)
Dugosza D-2
Dobra C-2/3 (G-1/2)
Dobrzaskiego A-3
Dolna G-6
Drewniana C-3
Dubois A-1 (E-1)
Dzielna A-2 (D/E-1/2)
Dzika D/E-1
Elektoralna A-2/3 (E-2)
Emilii Plater A/B-3/4 (F-3)
Esperanto E-1/2
Etiudy Rewolucyjnej E-7
Filtrowa E-4
Floriaska G-1
Foksal C-3 (G-3)
Franciszkaska A/B-1
Francuska H-2
Frascati C-4
Fredry B-2 (F-2)
Freta B-1 (F-1)
Furmaska C-2 (F/G-2)
Gagarina G-5
Gaczyskiego C-3
Gamerskiego B-2
Geodetw D-5
Gsta C-2
Gibalskiego D-2
Grnolska H-3
Grska H-5/6
Grskiego B/C-3
Goszczyskiego F/G-6
Goworka G-5
Graniczna B-3
Grodzka C-2
Grjecka D/E-4/6
Grzybowska A-3 (E/F-2/3)
Grzybowski, pl. A/B-3
Grzymay D-4
Hoa B/C-4 (F/G-3)
Hynka D-7
Idzikowskiego G/H-6/7
Inflancka A-1
Iwicka H-5
Jaktorowska D-3
Jana Pawa II, al.
A-2/4, (D/E-1/3)
Jana Sobieskiego G/H-5/6
Jasielska D-6
Jasna B-3, (F-2/3)
Jazdw G-4
Jerozolimskie, Al.
A/C-3/4, (D/G-2/4)
Joliot-Curie F-7
Kacza D-2
Kaliska D-4
Kanonia B-2
Kapitulna B-2
Karasia C-3
Karmelicka A-2 (E-1/2)
Karolkowa D-2/3
Karowa C-2 (F/G-2)
Kasprzaka D-3
Kazimierzowska F-5
Kpna H-1
Kiliskiego B-1/2
Klonowa G-5
Kopotowskiego G-1
Kolberga F-7
Kolejowa D/E-3/4
Konduktorska G-6
Konopnickiej C-4
Konstytucji, pl. F-4
Konwiktorska A/B-1
Kopernika C-3
Kopiska D-4
Korotyskiego D-6
Kocielna B-1 (E/F-1)
Koszykowa E/G-4
Kotlarska D/E-2/3
Kozia B-2
Kola B-1 (F-1)
Krakowskie Przedmiecie
B/C-2/3, (F-2)
Krasickiego F/G-7
Krasiskich, pl. B-2 (F-1)
Krasnocka H-5
Kredytowa B-3 (F-2)
Krochmalna A-3 (E-2)
Krlewska B-3 (F-2)
Krucza C-4 (F/G-3)
Kruczkowskiego C-3 (G-2)
Krywulta C-3
Krzywe Koo B-1
Krzywickiego E-4
Ksica C-4 (G-3)
Kubusia Puchatka C-3
Kusociskiego G/H-4
Kwiatowa F-5
Ldowa G-5
Lechicka D-7
Lenartowicza F/G-6/7
Lennona G-4
Leszczyska C-3
Leszno D-2
Leszowa E/F-4/5
Lewartowskiego A-1/2 (E-1)
Lindleya A-4 (E-3/4)
Lipowa C-2
Litewska G-4
Lubelska H-1
Ludna G/H-3
Ludowa G-6
Lwowska F-4
azienkowska H-4
ucka A-3 (E-3)
Madaliskiego F/G-5/6
Majewskiego D-5
Maachowskiego, pl. B-3
Malczewskiego F/G-6
Mariaska A-3
Mariensztat C-2
Markowska H-1
Marszakowska B-2/4 (F-2/4)
Matejki C-4
Mazowiecka B-3 (F-2)
Miczyska E-6/7
Miedziana A-4 (E-3)
Mia A-1 (D/E-1)
Miobdzka E-6
Miodowa B-2 (F-1)
Mireckiego D-2
Mirowski, pl. A-3 (E-2)
Mynarska D-2
Mokotowska C-4 (G-3/4)
Modawska D-6
Moliera B-2 (F-2)
Moniuszki B-3
Mostowa B-1 (F-1)
Muranowska A-1 (E-1)
Mysia C-4
Myliwiecka G/H-4
Na Rozdrou, pl. G-4
Na Skarpie, al. G-3
Nabielaka G-5
Nalewki A-1/2
Narbutta F/G-5
Narutowicza, pl. D-4
Nehru H-5
Niecaa B-2, (F-2)
Niemcewicza D/E-4
Niepodlegoci, al. F/G-4
Niska A-1, (D/E-1)
Niska D/E-1
Niyskiego Pasa B-3
Nowiniarska B-1
Nowogrodzka A/C-4 (E/F-3)
Nowolipie A-2 (E-2)
Nowolipki A-2 (D/E-1/2)
Nowowiejska E/G-4
Nowy wiat C-3/4 (G-2/3)
Obona C-3
Obozowa D-2
Oczki E/F-3/4
Odolaska F/G-6
Odyca F/G-6
Ogrodowa A-3 (E-2)
Oklnik C-3
Okopowa 1/2-D
Okrg G/H-3
Okrzei G-1
Oleandrw F/G-4
Olimpijska E-6
Olkuska G-6
Olszewska G-5
Olszowa G-1
Ondraszka E-4/5
Opolski, pl. D-2
Ordynacka C-3 (G-2)
Orla A-2/3 (E-2)
Orowicza G-3
Ossoliskich B-2
Padewska G-6
Panieska G-1
Paska A-3/4 (E-3)
Parkowa G-5
Pasteura D-4/5
Paszyna D-1
Pawia A-2 (D/E-2, E-1)
Pawiskiego D-5/6
Pereca A-3 (E-3)
Piaseczyska G-6
Piekarska B-2
Pikna F/G-4
Pisudskiego, marsz. pl. B-3 (F-2)
Piwarskiego G/H-6
Piwna B-2
Patowcowa E-6
Platynowa E-3
Podchorych G/H-5
Podwale B-1/2 (F-1)
Pokorna A-1
Polna F/G-4
Poniatowskiego, ks. Al. H-2
Powzkowska D-1
Powstacw Warszawy, pl. B-3
Poznaska B-4 (F-3)
Promenada G-5/6
Prosta A-4 (D/E-3)
Prna B-3
Prusa C-4
Pruszkowska D-6
Przechodnia A-2/3
Przemyska D-5
Przyokopowa D-3
Przyrynek B-1
Ptasia A/B-3 (F-2)
Puawska G-5/7
Puku Baszta F-7
Pytlasiskiego G-6
Racawicka D/E-6
Radna C-3
Rajcw B-1
Rakowiecka E/G-5
Raszyska E-4
Rejtana G-5
Rokitnicka E-5
Rostafiskich E-5
R, al. G-4
Rana F/G-5/6
Rozbrat G-3
Rycerska B-2
Rynek Nowego Miasta B-1 (F-1)
Rynek Starego Miasta B-1/2
Rysia B-3
Sandomierska G-5
Sanguszki B-1
Sanocka D-5/6
Sapieyska A/B-1
Sasanki D-7
Senatorska B-2 (F-1/2)
Schillera B-2 (F-1)
Siedmiogrodzka D-3
Sielecka H-5/6
Siemieskiego D-5
Sienkiewicza B-3
Sienna A-4 (E-3)
Skaryszewska H-1
Skaryskiego D-5
Skierniewicka D-3
Skorochd D-5/6
Sawiska D-3/4
Soneczna G-5
Supecka D-4
Smocza D/E-1/2
Smolna C-3/4
Sokola G/H-1/2
Solec G/H-2/3
Solidarnoci, al.
A/C-1/3, (D/G-1/2)
Sosnowa A-4
Spacerowa G-5
Spartaska E-7
Spiska D/E-4
Srebrna F-3
Stara B-1
Starociska F/G-5
Starynkiewicza, pl. E-3
Staszica D-2
Stawki A-1 (D/E-1)
Stefana Batorego E/F-5
Stpiska H-5/6
Sulkiewicza G-5
Szara G-3
Szarych Szeregw D-3
Szczliwicka D-4
Szczygla C-3
Szkolna B-3
Szpitalna B-3/4
Szucha, al. G-4
Szwoleerw H-4
liska A-4
witojaska B-2
witojerska A/B-1/2 (E/F-1)
witokrzyska B/C-3 (E/G-2/3)
Tagorea F-6
Tamka C-3 (G-2)
Targowa G/H-1
Teatralny, pl. B-2 (F-2)
Tomackie A/B-2
Tokarzewskiego-Karaszewicza
B-2/3
Topiel C-3
Towarowa D/E-2/3
Traugutta B/C-3
Trbacka B-2
Trojdena, ks. D/E-5
Trzech Krzyy, pl. C-4 (G-3)
Tuwima C-3
Twarda A-3/4 (E-3)
Tyniecka G-6/7
Unii Lubelskiej, pl. G-4/5
Ursynowska F/G-6
Wa Miedzeszyski H-2/3
Walecznych H-2
Walicw A-3 (E-2/3)
Waowa A-1/2 (E-1)
Warecka B/C-3 (F-2)
Waryskiego F/G-4/5
Wski Dunaj B-2
Wawelska D/F-4
Widok B-4
Wiecha Pasa B-3/4
Wiejska C-4 (G-3)
Wierzbowa B-2 (F-2)
Wiktorska F/G-6
Wilanowska H-3
Wilcza B/C-4 (F/G-3/4)
Wileski pl. G-1
Willowa G-5
Winnicka D-5
Wiolarska H-3
Wilana C-2
Wilicka D-5/6
Winiowa F/G-5, F/G-6
Witosa, al. H-6/7
Wodna B-1
Wjtowska B-1
Wolno D-2
Wooska E/F-6/7
Wolska D-3
Woronicza E/G-7
Wronia E-2/3
Wsplna A/C-4 (F-3)
Wybrzee Gdaskie
B/C-1/2, (F-1)
Wybrzee Helskie C-1 (G-1)
Wybrzee Kociuszkowskie
C-2, (G-1/2)
Wybrzee Szczeciskie
C-1/2, (G-1/2)
Zbkowska H-1
Zajcza C-3 (G-2)
Zakroczymska B-1
Zamenhofa A-1/2 (E-1)
Zamkowy, pl. B-2 (F-1)
Zamoyskiego H-1
Zapiecek B-2
Zawiszy, pl. E-3
Zbawiciela, pl. F-4
Zbierska G/H-5/6
Zgoda B-3/4
Zieleniecka, al. H-1/2
Zielna B-3
Zimna A-3
Zota B-3, A/B-4 (E/F-3)
Zoli G-4
Zwycizcw H-3
elazna A-3/4 (E-2/3)
elaznej Bramy, pl. A/B-3 (F-2)
urawia B/C-4 (F/G-3)
wirki i Wigury D/E-4/7
ytnia D-2
BEST WESTERN Hotel Felix
33
BEST WESTERN Hotel
Portos 33
Boutique Bed & Breakfast 31
Camera 34
Campanile 31
Castle Inn 31
Courtyard by Marriott
Warsaw Airport 33
Emma 35
Fest Hostel 35
Golden Tulip Warsaw Centre
31
Gromada - Dom Chopa 31
H15 Boutique Apartments
34
Hetman 32
Hilton Warsaw Hotel &
Convention Centre 30
Holiday Inn Express Warsaw
Airport 33
Holiday Inn Warszawa 30
Hyatt Regency Warsaw 28
Chmielna Guest House 31
Ibis Budget Warszawa
Centrum 33
Ibis Ostrobramska 32
Ibis Stare Miasto 32
Ibis Warszawa Centrum 32
InterContinental 28
InterContinental 34
Le Mridien Bristol 28
Mamaison Hotel Le Regina
Warsaw 28
Mamaison Residence Diana
Warsaw 34
Maria 32
Marriott 28
MDM 32
Metropol 32
Moon 35
Noclegi Okcie 33
Novotel Warszawa Airport 33
Novotel Warszawa Centrum
30
Oki Doki 35
P&O Apartments 34
Polonia Palace Hotel 30
Premiere Classe 33
Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel
29
Radisson Blu Sobieski Hotel
30
Residence St. Andrew's
Palace 34
Reytan 32
Rialto 29
Sheraton Warsaw Hotel 29
Sleepwell Apartments 32
Sofitel Warsaw Victoria 29
Start Hotel Aramis 33
Start Hotel Atos 34
Team Hostel 35
The Westin Warsaw Hotel 29
Adler 40
Amber Room 52
Atelier Amaro 52
Bagno Food & Wine 42
Banja Luka 38
Bar Gruziski Argo 40
Bar Mleczny Familijny 47
Bar Salad Story 48
Bar Vega 61
Barn Burger 54
Belvedere 52
Besuto 49
Bierhalle 42
Biosfeera 61
Bistro Pita wiartka 53
Bistro Warszawa 53
Blue Cactus 59
Bonsai 49
Browar de Brasil 38
BrowArmia 42
Buddha Indian Restaurant
40
Burger Bar 54
Burger King 48
C.K. Obera 40
Casa Pablo 58
Cesarski Paac 38
Cesarski Paac (Tsinghis
Chan) 51
Concept 42
DeCoteria 42
Delicja Polska 53
Dom Polski 53
El Greco 40
Festa Italiana Ristorante 47
Five 43
Flow 43
Folk Gospoda 54
Frida 59
Fusion 40
Galeria Freta 43
GR Bistro & Restaurant 44
Grand Kredens 44
Green Bar 61
Groole 48
Gwiazdeczka Jazz Zone 44
Halka restauracja po polsku
54
Hard Rock Cafe 36
Charlotte. Chleb i Wino 39
China Garden 38
Chopskie Jado 53
Il Patio 48
Inaba 49
Kamanda Lwowska 61
Kaprys 54
Kaya Sushi 49
KFC 48
Kiku Japanese Dining
Gallery 50
Kintaro Sushi 50
Kosmos Kosmos 44
La MaMa 36
La Rotisserie 39
La Tomatina 48
Le Cedre 84 51
Legends British Bar &
Restaurant 38
Leniwa Gospodyni 47
Literatka 54
Little Thai Gallery 60
LOKAL.BISTRO 54
Maho 60
Masz Gulasz 54
McDonald's 48
MG Eat Magda Gessler 48
Mleczarnia Jerozolimska 47
Na Brackiej 56
Na Zielnej 44
Nam Sajgon 61
Namaste India 40
Namaste India Clay Oven 40
Natara 60
Obera Pod Czerwonym
Wieprzem 56
Ole Tapas Steak Restaurant
59
Olive Garden 51
Osteria 58
OTO!SUSHI 50
Papaya 40
Paros 51
Piekna 56 45
Pierrogeria 56
Pizza Hut 48
Planet Sushi 50
Podwale - Kompania Piwna
45
Polka, Magda Gessler po
prostu 56
Prosta Historia 54
Radio Caf 56
Rambam Kosher Cafe &
Restaurant 51
Restauracja Concept 13 45
Restauracja Kultura 45
Restauracja Rana 57
Restauracja Wilanw 45
Restaurant @Ferdy's 45
Restro 46
Roma 48
Roma Bukieteria 48
Royal Menu 48
Saffron Spices 40
Saint Jacques 39
SAM Restaurant & Bakery
46
Sioux 36
Skwer - filia Centrum
Artystycznego Fabryka
Trzciny 46
Sony 57
smaczneGO! 61
Socjal 46
Sol y Sombra 59
Solec 44 46
SomePlace Else 36
Soul Kitchen 46
STO900 47
Strauss Restaurant 57
Subway 48
Sunanta 60
Sushi To 50
T.G.I. Friday's 36
Tamka 43 47
The Mexican 59
The Oriental 39
LISTINGS INDEX
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
O Casino H Conference facilities
T Child friendl y U Facilities for the disabled
R Internet L Guarded parking
F Fitness centre G No smoking
K Restaurant X Smoking room available
D Sauna C Swimming pool
E Live music W Wi-Fi
6 Animal friendl y S Take away
I Fireplace J Old Town location
Y Tourist Card accepted V Home delivery
Symbol Key
WHERE TO STAY
RESTAURANTS
138
LISTINGS INDEX
Theatro 40
Tomo Sushi 50
Top Fish 58
Trattoria Rucola 48
U Barssa 57
U Fukiera 57
U Kucharzy 58
U Szwejka 39
Villa Foksal 47
Warsaw Tortilla Factory 60
Wiking 47
You & Me 47
Zapiecek 58
Blikle Caf 62
Bubbleology 62
Cafe Baguette 62
Cafe Prna 62
Caf Vincent 62
Chodna 25 62
Coffee Karma 62
Costa Coffee 62
Green Caffe Nero 62
Lody na Patyku 62
Loft 62
Ministerstwo Kawy 62
Moments Tasty Life 63
Mount Blanc Pijalnia
Czekolady i Kawy 63
Petit Appetit 63
Pijalnia Czekolady Wedel 63
Sodki Sony 63
Starbucks Coffee 63
To Lubi 63
Wawel 63
Bank Club 71
Bar Tektura 64
Bar Warszawa de Luxe 65
Beirut Hummus & Music Bar
64
Bierhalle 64
Bierhalle 73
British Bulldog Pub 64
BrowArmia 73
Bufet Centralny 64
Cafe Kulturalna 65
Club Capitol 71
Club Mirage 71
Coyote Bar & Night Club 75
de lite club 72
Dekada 72
Fabryka Trzciny 72
Fantom 67
Foksal XVIII 72
Hard Rock Cafe 65
Hydrozagadka 65
Champions Sports Bar &
Restaurant 65
Jimmy Bradley's 65
JP's Bar 66
Jung & Lecker 68
Kafefajka 66
Klaps 66
Kokomo 75
Konstytucja Klubokawiarnia
66
Kwadrat 66
Restaurant 66
Restaurant 68
Libido Gentleman's Club 75
Lokal Uytkowy 67
Lolek 67
Mae Piwo 67
Meta na Foksal 65
Metro Jazz Bar & Bistro 69
Mielyski 68
New Orleans Gentlemen's
Club 75
Opera 72
Organza 72
Panorama Bar & Lounge 67
Paparazzi 67
Patrick's Irish Pub 68
Pies Czy Suka/Pure Bar 68
Pijalnia Wdki i Piwa 65
Plan B 68
Platinium Club 73
Po Drugiej Stronie Lustra 68
Przekski Zakski 65
Room 13 Club & Lounge 73
Saturator 68
Sheesha Lounge 69
Sketch 69
Skwer - filia Centrum
Artystycznego Fabryka
Trzciny 69
Sofia 75
SomePlace Else 68
SomePlace Else 69
rdmiejska 69
The Pictures Art Bar Cafe 69
Tygmont 69
Utopia 73
Vinoteka 13 & WINE BAR 68
W Oparach Absurdu 70
Warszawa Powile 70
Warszawska 65
Watch Me 73
Znajomi Znajomych 70
All Saints' Day 82
Ask your Concierge 30
Breakfast 60
Burgers 54
Cemeteries 89
Climate 17
Credit Card Charges 124
Currency exchange 128
Disaster at Smolensk 29
Eating at a glance 36
Elektoralna & Chodna 8
Facts & Figures 17
Fast Food & Delivery 48
Gay Warsaw 67
Gestapo HQ 86
Have Your Say 43
Hot Beer 61
Chocolate Lounges 63
Jan III Sobieski 110
Kociuszko Monument 84
Krakowskie Przedmiecie 1 80
Krakowskie Przedmiecie 1 81
Language Smarts 19
Late Night Eats 65
Legia Warszawa 119
Lodgings at a glance 28
Market Values 18
Milk Bars 47
National Anthem 72
National Holidays 19
National Stadium 118
Night at a glance 64
Palmiry 90
Parks 88
Polish Alcohol 70
Polish Friends of Beer Party 66
Polonia Warszawa 119
Presidential Palace 87
Quick Currency Convertor 18
Ronald Reagan Monument 92
Rosa Luxembourg 83
Royal Castle 91
Shopping at a Glance 122
Smoking 38
Smoking 71
Stanislaw Poniatowski 85
Street Signs 13
The Citadel 86
The Incomes House 59
Tipping Tribulations 45
Vice Advice 74
Warsaw Central Station 16
Warsaw Historical Timeline 77
Witold Pilecki 31
Zlota 44 32
Features index
CAFS
NIGHTLIFE
TOMO
ul. Krucza 16/22, 00-562 Warszawa
tel. (22) 434-23-44
tel. 508-12-22-12
www.tomo.pl
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