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Knitted Fabric Quality & Controls

Fabric quality

Stitch density Stitch length How to find loop length? Course length Fabric cover Fabric weight per unit area Fabric width Fabric Shrinkage Knitted faults Yarn Faults Stains Pilling Knitted fabric standards Four-Point System Knitted Garment Quality Yarn quality assessment

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Fabric quality assessment In-process quality control Quality control during spreading Quality control during cutting Quality control during sewing Final Inspection Dimensional & design Considerations Weight Design Factors

Fabric quality
Before we understand fabric quality let us first know what are the properties of knitted fabrics. The commonly used terminology connected with the properties of the knitted fabric is as follows. (These expressions are mostly used for circular knitted fabrics)

1. Stitch density, or loop density 2. Stitch length, or loop length 3. 4. 5. 6. Course length Fabric cover Fabric weight per unit square Fabric width

7. Fabric shrinkage

Stitch density

The most important property of knitted fabric is its stitch density or loop density, i.e., the number of loops (stitches) per square inch or centimeter of the fabric (loops per square inch or loops per square centimeter etc). The loop density is directly related to;

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Fabric appearance, Fabric weight per unit area, Fabric thickness, Fabric drape and many other factors. Loop density in turn would depend upon the length of yarn, which makes one loop (stitch).
1.1.2 Stitch length

The length of the yarn in one loop is known as stitch length. In the fabric shown in the figure above, there are 17 stitches wale wise (width wise) and 14 stitches course wise (length wise). Therefore, the loop density of the fabric is 17 x14 = 238 stitches per square inch. In general terms, for any knitted fabric, as the stitch length increases the loop density decreases, and higher stitch lengths will make the fabric porous. So we can say that the loop density is directly related to the loop length. For simple fabrics the relationship between loop density and loop length can be expressed as an equation given below:

S = K/L 2 Where S is the loop density, L is the loop length in centimeters and K is a constant for the particular construction. After a large amount of data and research definite values of K have been proposed. These values range 19 to 21.6 depending upon the dry or relaxed state of the fabric.

Stitch density is also expressed as follows;

Stitch density = wpi x cpi

Where, wpi stands for wales per inch and cpi stands for courses per inch.

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The above formula is true only for plain knitted fabrics. For complex structures the formula is not true.
How to find loop length?

From a given plain knitted fabrics, the loop length can be found out by unraveling yarn from known number of loops of the fabric and measuring its length in centimeters using a crimp tester (or straightening the yarn by hanging a small weight).

Length of the yarn unraveled divided by number of loops unraveled will give the loop length.

To arrive at accurate loop length the mean of several lengths unraveled is divided by the number of loops in the course unraveled. It is usual to use 100 loops in this measurement. The second precaution is that the yarn unraveled must be straightened properly to remove the crimps in the yarn. Also the yarn should not be over stretched while straightening. Preferably a crimp tester should be used, if available.
Course length

A circular knitted fabric is composed of a number of courses that spiral around the fabric. Yarns fed by number of feeders positioned around the machine form these courses. Each feeder can be regarded as a separate knitting entity responsible for making a course in one circular rotation of the machine. The yarn length fed by one feeder that has been knitted in one complete rotation of the course is the course length and the number of loops, which this yarn has created, in one rotation are equal to the number of needles per centimeters of the knitting machine.

If the feeding tension on each feeder differs, each feeder will produce a different course length. In feeders having more tension, tight course will be produced and where the feed tension is less a loose course will be produced. It is the aim of fabric quality control to make each course length as near as
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possible to the specified value (to be determined depending upon the quality of the fabric to be knitted). When some courses are wildly out of specification and differ from one another, the fabric has horizontal bars that degrade its appearance and lower its perceived quality.

Most modern circular machines producing simple fabrics are fitted with positive feed units that ensure much closer tolerances between feeders in respect of course length. For machines that do not possess positive feed or for fabrics that cannot be knitted under positive feed conditions it is difficult to produce good quality fabric.

The tension of feeders is leveled using a combination of yarn speed meters and tension meters. During these quality control procedures it is essential that at lease one measurement be made on each feeder. Modern knitting machines can have in excess of 100 feeders, so the work can be extensive.

Incoming fabric to the cutting room store would be examined for bars due to course length variations, and measure for loop density. Weight per square meter would also be taken, to alert Quality Control to possible aberrations.

With circular machines the relationship of a particular feeder to the course it produces in the fabric is simple and consecutive.

With flat machines the situation can be more complex. With knitting taking place from left to right and then right to left, a different set of cams on the machine produce the knitting left to right, than produce it right to left. On simple flat machines with one cam box, alternate course will be knitted in right or left direction. In this case if feed tension differs in each
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direction the course length variations is expected to alternate.

On more complex knitting machines with two or more knitting systems (cams) traversing, the situation is more complex. On a two system V-bed flat machine there are four different groups of cams producing knitted courses A, B, C, D. if the cam carriage is moving from right to left, the two trailing systems B, D are knitting, with B knitting the first course followed by D. When the carriage is moving from left to right A and C are knitting, with C knitting before A.

It is essential to know this aspect of knitting in order to set up the machine or locating a faulty course length distortion.

Fabric cover
Fabric cover is a simple ratio of the area of knitted fabric covered by yarn to the area covered by the gaps in between loops. Obviously, the cover of the fabric would depend upon two things;
1. Loop density 2. Yarn diameter (or count)

A fabric knitted with higher loop density will have higher cover; similarly, a yarn with higher diameter will knit a fabric with higher cover. A fabric with higher cover is usually tightly knit and that with a lower cover is loosely knit. A normal fabric is one that is neither too tight nor too loose or floppy.

So, the cover factor of a knitted fabric is related with yarn diameter (or count) and loop density or stitch length. There is simple formula that can be used to express cover factor or tightness factor. _________
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Cover factor (cf) = Count in tex/L

Where L is the loop length in centimeters.

Usually in knitted fabrics, for fabrics of a similar construction, in order to maintain same cover, a higher loop length would require higher size of yarn (coarser count).
Fabric weight per unit area

Weight per unit area of fabric is an important property that is again related to another properties of the fabric, i.e., loop density and yarn size. Thus the weight of the fabric is determined by two factors that interact: the loop size and the yarn size. The effect of the loop size is simple to express: if the size of the yarn remains constant, then increase a loop size produces a fabric with lower loop density and produces a decrease of weight per unit area.

So by doubling the loop size, the yarn per square area of the fabric becomes half, and so the weight per unit area will also become half.

The calculations for weight/m2 is as under

Specifications for knitted fabrics usually include quantities for loop density, width of the fabric and weight per m. The weight of the knitted fabrics is referred to as grams per square meters (GSM). Construction details of some of the important circular knitted fabrics are given below.

S. No 1
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Type of Fabric Single Jersey

M/C Gauge 24

M/C Dia 30"

No of Needles 2256

Count (Ne) 20s/1

GSM Min : 135

GSM Max: 170

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2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11

Single Jersey Single Jersey Inter Lock Inter Lock Inter Lock Inter Lock Rib (1x 1) Rib (1x 1) Rib (2 x 2) Rib (2 x 2)

28 28 24 24 24 24 18 18 18 18

30" 30" 30" 30" 30" 30" 30" 30" 30" 30"

2640 2640 4512 4512 4512 4512 3360 3360 2240 2240

30s/1 40s/1 30s/1 32s/1 36s/1 40s/1 30s/1 40s/1 30s/1 40s/1

110 85 215 195 180 155 155 110 155 115

145 110 270 210 195 190 165 125 165 130

Fabric width

Fabric width of knitted fabrics is an important property. In order to avoid fabric wastage, the garment patterns should fit in the fabric width in such a way so that very little wastage is produced while cutting pieces. But if the fabric width is different than specified, it may produce high wastage.

The fabric width of tubular fabrics or flat knitted fabrics may become different (usually lesser) than on the machine. Knitted fabric may change dimensions with time, handling and with subsequent wet treatments including steaming, and such changes can even occur after the garment has been produced and sold to the public. This phenomenon occurs due to relaxation of the fabric from the knitting tensions. Some fabrics come in the pre-shrunk condition, if a better technology for finishing the fabrics has been used; however, there will still be some shrinkage due to relaxation.

The concept of the relaxed state for knitted fabrics is well recognized and determined. Quality control must ensure that before knitted garments are cut, the fabric is in a relaxed or near relaxed condition, i.e., that there will be little shrinkage of fabric/garment when it is in the consumers possession.

Relaxation tests can be carried out on fabric as a routine procedure, or as spot checks. Most test procedures involve agitation of a square cut piece of fabric in water solution followed spinning and tumble-drying. The change in the dimensions before and after wash treatment will tell us about
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the extent of shrinkage which the garment may suffer under actual wash condition during usage. This test will also tell us the changes in the length and width the fabric will undergo while washing. This much allowance in the dimensions of the garment should be kept in mind while cutting the pieces.

Fabric Shrinkage
There are two types of shrinkages present in knitted fabrics; (1) Relaxation shrinkage (2) Washing shrinkage

We have talked about these shrinkages above under the head of fabric width. Relaxation shrinkage occurs with the passage of time. The fabric becomes relaxed free from knitting tensions and so shrinks.

Washing shrinkage occurs due to two factors, 1) due to release of any residual tension in the yarns with which the fabric is made of and the fabric itself, 2) due to inherent nature of the fibres of the fabric.

Wool knitted fabrics with shrink-resist treatment pose little problem of shrinkage and deformation. Steaming of knitted garments blanks or garments on an open steam bed release the majority of stress in wool fabrics.

Acrylic fabrics made from bulked yarns present few problems in dimensional stability. Steaming of knitted garments blanks or garments on an open steam bed release the majority of stress in wool fabrics.

But, cotton knitted fabrics presents the greatest problems in

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fabric shrinkage or deformation on account of both of the factors mentioned above. These fabrics may shrink up to 20% or more. Therefore, cotton knitted fabrics should be preshrunk and compacted before cutting and garment making. In view of this the technology for finishing cotton knitted fabrics is more elaborate, sophisticated and costly. The finishing technology of cotton fabrics include following steps and machinery;

1. Dyeing and bleaching in soft-flow dyeing machines: These machines generate less of the tension on the fabrics. 2. Hydro-extraction: This is done on a continuous hydro-extracting machine, which also spreads the width of the fabric while water is being extracted from the fabric. 3. Relax dryer: These machines dry the fabrics in a fully relaxed state, so the fabric assume its relaxed width. 4. Compacting calendar: This machine compact the fabric mechanically and calendars (press) to impart a good finish to the cotton fabrics.

Fabrics treated with this technology has very less shrinkage, but still at least 2% to 5% potential shrinkage is still left, which is difficult to remove.

A knitwear designer should know all terms and phenomenon of knitted fabrics so that a proper fabric may be designed for making garments. It is not the duty of the knitwear designer to set the machines or to select the treatment, which the knitting masters should do, however, it is essential that the designers should guide the knitting masters as to what sort of fabric is required by them.

Knitted faults
Some faults appear in the knitted fabrics and garments. These faults may be due to knitting itself or due to the yarns used. These faults have been tabulated below.

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KNITTING FAULTS

YARN FAULTS

Spun-in Coloured Fibres Foreign Matters

Long Thick Places

Hole

Stains/Contamination Fly Missed Stitch Tear off Double stitch Needle break Transfer Stitch Rings (mixed yarns) Dropped Stitch Loop distortions

Spun-in Coloured Fibres Foreign Matters Short Thick places Long Thick Places Thin Ring Long Thin Places Thick ring Short thin places Knot/Splice Unevenness Periodic Variations

These faults, if appear in the garments will downgrade the garment value. The knitted fabric or garment portions at the start of garment making process may exhibit the following observable faults;
1. Variable loop length/course construction, showing horizontal barring; 2. Horizontal barring from a number of yarn characteristics; 3. Vertical faults that are machine determined; 4. Stains due to oiling or lint contaminating fabric

Other than above a knitted specifications of the fabric.

fabric may

have

wrong

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The wrong construction, with loop length, width and weight per square specifications; meter variations from the

All these observable faults are the subject of inspection procedures at the start of the garment construction process. Some faults are not necessarily observable at the start. Such faults relate to fabric shrinkage after being made into garments. The potential for shrinkage can only be detected by testing.

Some of these faults are discussed below.

Yarn Faults
Two types of faults are seen in the knitted fabrics. Horizontal faults Vertical faults

Most faults that result in horizontal bars (thick sections distinguishable from the body of the fabric) are mainly due to yarn used. These faults occur due to;

Difference in the counts of the yarn used: Supposing in a cone few meter of the yarn is thicker or thinner than the remaining yarn. The thick or thin portion when knitted along with normal yarn sections will show as a horizontal bar.

Different dyeing shades in yarns used: Supposing in a cone few meter of the dyed yarn has different yarn shade than the remaining yarn. The dark or lighter portion of yarns when knitted along with normal shade of the yarn sections will show as a horizontal bar.

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Different spinning batch/source of yarns: A fabric produced from cones having yarns of different batches produced in the spinning mills, when dyed may show horizontal bars. Since different batches of yarn may differ in cotton type and mixing and pick-up different dye content during dyeing process. Different bulking heat treatment given to acrylic yarns: The bulking treatment (steam heating in a chamber) given to high bulk acrylic yarns (2/32s acrylic yarn types) may pick-up different heat due non-uniform steam spread in the chamber. The yarns with lesser bulking may pick-up different dye contents and when knitted may show-up as bars.

All these faults characterize themselves as bars across the fabric, of density, colour or luster, and must be detected in the fabric before is cut into the garment, otherwise these faults will spoil the appearance of the garments.

Vertical faults usually result from knitting process but can occur with finishing. A common vertical fault is needle line. Faulty needles result in vertical lines of occasional or frequent tuck stitches. Such faults in garment blanks or fullyfashioned panels render them unusable.

Stains
The knitting industry uses oils to lubricate machinery in the immediate vicinity of where the fabric is being produced, i.e., on the needles themselves. Such oils mixed with atmospheric dust and metallic powder can, in certain circumstances, cause stains on the fabric or garments being knitted. Two procedures are used to minimize this:

1. Control of oil itself, by applying in minimum quantities and delivering it quickly, so that it is present in fabric but does not show up in any build up of soiled material that would result from spasmodic application; 2. Using oils that are readily mixed with water, so called scour able or clean oils.

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The majority of knitted piece goods are wet finished before cutting and there is little likelihood that oil staining will remain in finished fabric. On stitched shaped garments it can present major problems if tight control is not exercised in the knitting room. As these garments are not generally wet finished, stains are usually dealt with during examination by solvent based spotting guns. The problem is negligible in fullyfashioned industry where oil is not used on the needles and where wet finishing is usual.

Stains due to oil on knitted fabrics show as dirty areas, or horizontal markings, associated with a course or group of courses, or vertical lines following one or more wales and fading away with distance.

Other stain characteristics of knitted fabrics occur when accumulated lint (fibre dust0 falls into knitting zones and gets incorporated into the fabric. Some circular machines are equipped with vacuum or blower devices to clear the immediate vicinity of the knitting zones. Such devices are not usual on flat machines and good housekeeping during the knitting process is essential.

Cleaning down is particularly important where the knitting of light coloured fabric and garments occurs after the knitting of darker coloured fabrics. Similar problems occur if coloured fabrics/garments pieces are knitted in the same location as white or pastel coloured ones.

Some faults in knitted fabric and garments are only detected when the garment is in use. One such fault, common to all textiles, is fading of colour. The other problem that occurs infrequently is pilling.

Pilling
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Pilling is the formation on the surface of knitted fabrics of small balls of abraded fibre. It is connected with several factors:

1. The type and size of fibre mixture used in the component yarn; 2. The construction of yarn in terms of twist factor; 3. The type and tightness of knitted construction; 4. The nature of the surface against which the knitted fabric has abraded.

Wool pills are considered weak and indeed sometimes drop off spontaneously. Pills produced in fabric containing polyamide or polyester fibres are considered strong and persist, making garments on which they occur unsightly unwearable, even though not worn out.

Testing procedure involves tumbling samples in pill drums or pillboxes where they are abraded against both standard surfaces and against selected fabrics.

Pilling, which is particularly deleterious phenomenon in knitted garments, has also been discussed, with indications of the factors involved in its formation but no magic, one-off solution.

Knitted fabric standards

The standard for basic fabrics (including but not limited to finished single knit, rib, terry, double knit and interlock fabric) is determined as under.
1.7.1 Four-Point System

Penalty points are assessed to a piece of fabric according to the length of defects measured in inches. The following schedule of penalty points is based on fabrics 60-62 inches in width for defects visible when inspected on face side of the fabric only:

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LENGTH OF DEFECTS 3 inches of less Over 3 but not over 6 inches Over 6 inches but not over 9 inches Over 9 inches

NUMBER OF PENALTY POINTS 1 2 3 4

a. Four penalty points per linear yard are the maximum assessable for fabrics up to 60/62 inches in width. b. For fabrics over 60/62 inches in width, maximum penalty points are to be increased in proportion as the width exceeds 60 inches. c. Regardless of the length of the fabric, the quality shall be expressed in the number of penalty points per 100-yard length. (Example: a 20-yard piece with 3 penalty points is to be rated as 15 points per 100 yards.)

This method of evaluating quality relates only to: a. Knitting defects b. Grease spots oil c. Dye spots d. Stains e. Slubs except where they are an inherent part of the yarn f. Bars Fabrics are to be examined for these defects on the face side. Other than these a fabric may be rejected or downgraded if it does not meet specifications of the user.

Basic fabrics shall be classified as first quality if the number of penalty points does not exceed 40 points per 100 linear yards. However the maximum number of defects may not exceed 30 per 100 yards.

1.8 Knitted Garment Quality

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Defects in knitted fabrics were discussed in the previous chapter. Faults incurred during the knitting and fabric-finishing processes pass on to the knitted garment itself unless detected and removed during fabric inspection. During the progress of garment assembly of fully cut pieces or knitted pieces additional faults can be accumulated. These faults may occur during cutting, seaming or garment finishing. The number of possible faults increases with the number of processes that a garment passes through. It follows, therefore, that fully cut garments have the greatest fault potential and some fully-fashioned garments the least, with stitched shaped cut falling in between.

For example a knitted sock cannot contain dimensional faults arising from cutting, nor multiple seaming problems because it is neither cut nor much of the seamed. All the faults in a sock can be classified as knitting or yarn faults or dyeing/finishing faults. In contrast, a fully-fashioned garment may have a dimensional abnormality, knitting defects due to yarn faults, and fully cut garments may have dimensional faults, seaming defects, yarn & knitted faults along with finishing defects.

So a comprehensive quality control procedure is required to check faults at all stages, to avoid cumulative faults.

Since fully cut garments pass through all the stages of garment manufacturing, so quality control procedures applicable to this process will cover most of the peculiarities of knitted garments.

Yarn quality assessment

In a knitted fabric & garment integrated company fabrics for fully cut garments are mostly produced within the company itself and the company procures yarns from some spinning unit. Therefore it essential to periodically check the quality of the in coming yarns. Where deliveries of yarn are from various spinners, more intensive sampling and testing is
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required.

Normally spinners send a quality check report with each delivery of the lot, however, if not received it may be demanded from the spinner. Many knitting and garment manufacturing factories do have equipment to check quality of the yarn and they rely on the quality reports of the spinners.

A company consuming large amount of knitting yarn for circular machines should possess some basic testing equipment to check the quality of the yarns. Specification of incoming raw materials is one of the most neglected areas of knitting. The company should also have its standards of yarn quality specifications. Testing of yarns implies that specifications have been established against which to test. Some basic but important factors to specify in knitting yarns are;

Yarn Count; Count variability Yarn Evenness; Single & doubling twist; Twist variability Yarn strength;

Other than above, some yarn characteristics associated with the fibres types are important, such as fibre diameter in wool, the extent of presence of trash and seed contamination in cotton, the residual bulking in acrylic yarn, and crimp rigidity in textured polyester and polyamide yarns.

Some or all of the tests may be carried out routinely, while others may be only performed on suspect lots. The objective of maintaining yarn standards is to produce fabric that meets the specification laid down. As narrated in earlier chapter, all
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aberrations in yarn specifications produce measurable or visible faults within the fabric.

A knitwear designer should understand these factors in knitting yarns and its effect on fabrics quality. It is not the duty of the designer to check the yarn or fabric quality, but they can advise and suggest to the quality control department to check certain yarn quality specifications.

Fabric quality assessment

Knitted fabric is usually examined at two stages: After knitting and After finishing. But the quality control procedures start before and during knitting; Before knitting, the machine is correctly set for stitch length and feed tension to produce a particular quality, and During knitting to check that quality is being maintained and fabric damages are not occurring due to needle or yarn breakages. Thus a knitting operator also acts as quality controller to prevent the knitting machine producing faulty fabric. The rough examination after knitting is to ensure that the fabric is not being produced with visible faults that by feedback can be rectified on a particular knitting machine. At this stage, some rough mending may be carried out to rectify minor faults to prepare the fabric for the dyeing and finishing process.

After finishing, the fabric is examined over an examination table, faults are identified and their location marked so that they can be dealt with during spreading or after cutting. In order to locate defects at the spreading and cutting table, it is usual practice to mark at the selvedge with coloured tag or put a sticker.

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Fault counts can be maintained to assess improving or deteriorating standards. Visual fault location cannot be 100%, neither can an operative act other than subjectively, and checks on the examiners also need to be carried out. In-process quality control
Quality control during spreading

The operatives who prepare the fabric-lay are also responsible for quality control of the operation, whether they are spreading by hand or machine. During fabric spreading care need to be taken to avoid stretching or distortion, in particular that of knitted fabrics, which are more prone to stretching. Faults marked in earlier examination must be located and decision made about them as regards eliminating them from the lay.

Alignment of features and patterns of the fabrics must be maintained where necessary. Also of great importance is ensuring that the number of layers in the entire lay, and the sub-numbers of particular colours or patterns, are correct. Again, procedures must be established to check that this is happening.

The accuracy of the marker and its positioning on the lay, or the marking of the pattern pieces on the top layer, must be the subject of close quality control. Dimensional problems can be induced at this stage, as can misalignments of garment portions or misalignment of patterns within or on the fabric. Another common mistake at this stage is to forget marking one or more pieces of the garments, say pockets or plackets, which can cause problem of mismatch if cut from different lay.

It is also important to identify and label on the marker the relevant sizes of the garment portions, so that after cutting they are assembled in the correct bundles.
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Quality control during cutting

When cutting by hand with straight knives care should be taken not to deform knitted fabric, particularly within the depths of the lay. While the cutter is apparently following the surface marker, the lower layers, which are not properly aligned or deformed, are not necessarily being cut accurately.

Some fabrics are particularly difficult to cut, e.g. 1 x1 rib, and the problem increases with depth of the lay. To cut these fabrics lot of skill is required on the part of the cutter. Other faults of bad cutting are the failure to accurately follow lines of the marker, and the cutting off of corners.

Auto spreading and cutting pose less of a problem but it must not be assumed that they are infallible. Constant checking by sampling must be carried out to ensure good standards.

Measures must be taken to ensure that the bundles assembled after cutting contains the correct number of pieces and that faulty pieces have been identified and removed. In one cut operations and bundle making all the pieces must be for the same size garment.
Quality control during sewing

Knitted garments, which are assembled by overlocking, pose problem. The over locking machinery actually cuts off the edge of the fabric to ensure a fixed dimension of bite. Patterns for knitted garments often contain an allowance for cutting by the overlock knife, which varies from 3mm to 6mm bite. If care is not taken a careless overlocker can readily cut 20mm off a particular edge, altering the dimensions of the garment considerably.

Other problems arise from the difficulties of controlling alignment of two components (say, back & front panel) during overlocking. Because knitted fabrics stretch it is easy for one
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of the components to stretch during seaming. Subsequent attempts at correction within the length of the seam make matters worse and the garment shows obvious distortions. Even slight misalignments at cuff and waistband ribs can be visually unacceptable.

The most difficult task for overlockers, cup seamers and flat seamers alike, is maintaining alignment of stripes or patterns on side seams. It is usual to select the most skilled operatives and to pay premium rates. Stripes and patterns are more usual on cut stitch shaped knitwear and overlockers in the knitwear industry gradually gain the skills necessary to deal with them.

The other common problem with overlocker seams in particular is distortion by general stretching during seaming. This shows as bowing or seam rippling. However, some or all of this is recoverable during finished steaming.

The above factors that affect quality, and need to be subject to control, relate to the operative and his/her skills of assembly. Such factors are best dealt with thorough training, rather than through checking. The best quality control processes are built into the production system. Make well and there is little need to check.

Other seaming factors relate to machine settings. Some customers specify stitches per centimeter or inch and this must be measured. The machine builders graded marks (stitches/unit) indicated on the machines are only approximations, not very accurate quantities. Where customers do not set the standard the manufacturer must set the standards appropriate to his particular quality perception.

Seam balance is important in seams using more than one

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thread. For knitted garment seams this in particular means overlock seams and multithread chain stitches. It is strongly advocated that thread run in is used as an assessment of balance, rather than mere visual appearance. The single and double chain stitch in particular, incorporated in the collar seams; bear the load when the seam is stretched. Optimum values for thread run-in must be established and maintained to avoid customer complaints of seam failure.

Final Inspection
All knitted garment manufacturers have final inspection procedures to ensure that the quality they promise to customers is maintained. Analysis of the records of final inspections should also provide suggestions to the production section for action to improve quality. Examination results in garments being categorized into firsts, seconds and rejects.

Firsts pass, are sent straight away for packing. Seconds may be mended or the fault repaired in some other way, such as stain removal, loose threads tidying, stitch mending etc. Having corrections done, they move after re-examination into first category if corrections are satisfactory. Likewise a major rejection fault may be overcome to move the garment into second category.

Very few companies allow absolute rejects to occur in their production process, and such events are usually associated with an unrecognized problem with the raw material, such as excessive pilling, dye fading, dye bleeding etc. Some faults, although measurable, are actually assessed visually. Examples include colour matching, colour variation between components, dimensional distortions and misalignments.

Other faults more obviously fall into the subjective category and pose difficulties in definition of their severity. Holes of all sizes usually result in rejection and may be subjected to mending that brings them into a second category. More
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difficult to categorise are flaws due to thick and thin localized irregularities in yarn that may occur in an unobvious place in the garment. Tidiness of make up is also judged at this stage, with loose sewing threads, fragments of threads and trailing overlock chains all tending to lower the perceived quality of the garment.

Such subjective judgments are not normally written into a garment specification but are covered by the premise that if the garment was passed and sold the customer would return it. This leads to another concept, of different qualities for different customers. Manufacturers of knitted garments gain a feel for what a particular customer/market will tolerate, and adjust accordingly.
Dimensional & design Considerations

Measuring the dimensions of knitted garments poses particular problems. These have already been aired earlier in this chapter. The act of measuring itself is difficult. Handling and placing a knitted garment on a flat surface can induce stretch of up to 5%.

The edges of knitted garments can be indeterminate and of a rounded fold rather than a precise, crisp edge. Tolerances of width measurement need to be generous and related to more absolute quantities such as a total number of wales.

Widths of waistbands, cuffs, collars and facings of knitwear are commonly expressed in terms of the number of ribs, but only on the coarsest gauges can the ribs be counted easily during production.

Weight

Weight of a garment can be used as a quality control measure to assess overall variability. It is particularly useful in the fully-fashioned industry. Used in conjunction with control
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chart it enables a selection to be made of garments that fall outside control limits, for further examination.

Weight control charts also highlight trends towards higher or lower limits that occur in production processes.

Weight is also useful during production to assess the variability of cutting process and of garments length or piece knitting. In such usage the two interacting factors of yarn size and loop length are being assessed as well as the state of relaxation.
Design Factors

In any market dealing with clothing, visual design itself is considered a quality. It must be recognized that hitting the right design for the market often overrides considerations by the ultimate customer of such factors as durability, fitness for purpose, neatness of make up and other utilitarian factors.

Good design must be considered a very important tool in the armoury of quality assurance.

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