Short break From Delhi

Shoghi

Picnic Slopes 2

+ AYS D

The Himachali town of Shoghi offers gentle walks along beautiful mountain paths | By Shivya Nath

Walking through Shoghi, visitors can explore the main town (below), or embark on longer hikes that offer spectacular views of the countryside ( facing page).

ituated at a height of over 5,700 feet in the outer himalayas, Shoghi is not as urbanised as its neighbour Shimla, nor as popular a choice for honeymooning couples. this has enabled it to retain its countryside charm, clear night skies, and the warm hospitality of its village folk. the journey from Kalka to Shoghi on the Shimla toy train is magical. the train meanders

along a zigzag track passing through 102 tunnels on its way to Shimla. Along the route, passengers get stunning views of snowcovered peaks, clear streams, rickety mountain bridges, and dense forests that vary in colour from lush green to bare brown depending on the season. in summer, Shoghis emerald green slopes are great for picnics. in most seasons, except winter, a stroll through its hillside villages will result in spotting migratory birds in the surrounding forests of rhododendron and oak. When snow paints the valley white, this little town can also be wonderful, so long as you have on your warmest clothes to partake in the lively festivities of the himachali countryside.

EXPLORE
Watch closely Shoghi Valley is home to
a variety of birdlife. you dont need to be able to identify them by name to enjoy their company. Blue magpie, black drongo and khaleej pheasant are commonly spotted throughout the year, except at the peak of winter. Carry binoculars for a close look at their plumage and magnificent colours. there are many birding trails in the forests that surround Shoghi, especially along the tributary of the Gambhar River. Unless you are confident of navigating your way through the forest, it is best to ask the place youre staying at to arrange a guide. Guide fees are `250-300 per hour.

are home to monal pheasant and musk deer, though their numbers have been severely depleted by hunting. trekkers can also expect to see the himalayan black bear and barking deer. Shali tibba is an isolated summit that can be reached by an old forest trail. it offers unimpeded views of snow-capped summits and the Sutlej Valley. Adventure companies and camping lodges in Shoghi organise these treks for groups of ten or more. they cost `2,000-2,500 per person, per day, and include equipment and meals. the ideal time to do a trek is April-june or october-november.

scale a peak Shoghi has much to keep

adventure enthusiasts happy. Casual trekkers can embark on a 14-km hike to the village of paughat. the trail goes through scenic countryside and offers great views of the mountains and the valley. the 45-minute trek to taradevi is a gradual climb through pine and deodar forests. you can choose to return the same day or camp overnight. trekkers should stick to the trail if they are setting out without a guide. Serious trekkers can opt for week-long treks to the peaks of churdar and shali tibba. Churdar stands 11,965 feet high in the Shivalik Range, and is the highest peak in the outer himalayas. its grassy green landscapes
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UNIQUE LOCAL EXPERIENCE

An evening of folk culture Folk music and dance, often themed around devotional verses and everyday life, offer a peep into the vibrant culture of himachali villages. Many local artisans have taken up more conventional jobs for lack of an audience, but those who do remain in

Rejuvenate Shoghi is recommended for a lazy, do-nothing break. Lounge in the mountain sun, watch the clouds glide by, watch the toy train chugging through the ridges of the himalayas, gaze at bird formations flying over the valley, and catch up on reading, writing,

AjAy Sood

the interiors of the valley can transport you back in time with their traditional instruments and dances. hotels and lodges in Shoghi can arrange a performance if planned in advance. the pahari natya (mountain dances) and the musical performance of dhol (double-headed drum), nagara (rounded, hide-headed drum) and turi (shehnai) typically lasts two hours, and costs about `3,000.

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AjAy Sood (landscape), dinodiA photo (folk dance)

WandeR aRound if trekking is not your cup of tea, tread the gentle paths that the forest department has created along the slopes of Shoghi. they offer the chance to discover the picturesque villages of anandpur, Goro, and Mohri. Along the way, there are plenty of secluded spots to have a picnic lunch, while soaking in the breathtaking views. the trails have few signs, so it is best to ask for directions before setting off. depending on pace and point of origin, the walk could take from 30 minutes to a few hours.

Short break From Delhi

Shoghi

AjAy Sood (commando bridge), Ben pipe photoGRAphy/photoLiBRARy/Getty imAGeS (musk deer), dhiVyA KARthiK (makki ki roti)

Adventure activities in the forests range (left) from rock climbing and rappelling to commando bridge; The Himalayan musk deer (top right), is well equipped to survive at high altitudes, with wide toes for gripping steep slopes and a thick, coarse coat that protects it from extreme cold; Though makki ki roti and sarson ka saag (bottom right), are traditional Punjabi dishes, they are very popular in Shoghi. painting or anything else you fancy but dont normally have the time for. if you are camping, the cheerful chirping of crickets will make for constant music. thousands of stars fill the night sky and its possible to spot most major constellations. From december to February, it is a magical experience to watch snowflakes descend on the valley. air jacuzzi and outdoor adventure course are a treat for nature lovers. (92121 14441, 88006 90594; www.aamod.in; doubles from `7,400.)

The train ride from Kalka to Shoghi is peaceful and scenic. The toy train route goes over a number of fantastically engineered bridges including an impressive one near Kamoh, which has four-storeyed arches.

THE GUIDE Orientation

Shoghi is 340 km/6 hours northeast of new delhi and 103 km/about two hours northeast of Chandigarh. Shimla is the nearest big town and is about 17 km/30 minutes away. from Kalka charge `350 per person and take an hour and a half. Road himachal pradesh tourism development Corporation and himachal Road transport Corporation run overnight regular and deluxe buses from new delhi to Shimla that drop passengers at the Shoghi bus stand. the fare ranges from `310 for an ordinary bus to `1,000 for a Volvo bus. the drive from delhi to Shoghi is mostly on nh1 and nh22, and takes about seven hours. dipping to -4C. the valley wears a snow coat between december and February. For outdoor activities and dry, pleasant weather, it is best to visit during the months of march-june or Septembernovember.

EAT
saMple local faRe mustard is a
popular crop in Shoghis villages, so sarson ka saag made from mustard leaves, and eaten with makki ki roti is a local favourite. Available from november to April, this slightly bitter specialty is cooked differently from the punjabi version of the dish. if you ask ahead, hotels and lodges can arrange a traditional lunch in a village home. many homes have rooftops overlooking mustard fields for a cosy lunch under the winter sun. A tip to cover the host familys costs is recommended: `500 is considered generous for a meal for two.

Need to know
Laundry facilities, internet cafes, Atms and the nearest petrol pump are located in the main market of Shoghi.

Mid-RanGe
Park Woods is a camping retreat surrounded by forests of oak and pine. their bamboo cottages and Swiss tents are spacious with double beds, electricity, fans, and heaters and attached washrooms. it keeps trekking equipment and offers guides for treks and trails. A machan and hammocks are ideal for amateur bird watchers. (011-46593564, 99538 18074; www.park-woods.com; doubles from `7,800 for 2nights/3 days, including meals.)

Getting there
air daily flights connect Shimlas jubbarhatti Airport to new delhi. the airport is about 33 km/1 hour away from Shoghi (taxis cost `650). Rail the most scenic way to reach Shoghi is to ride the Shimla toy train from Kalka. Kalka is well connected to new delhi by overnight trains and the Kalka Shatabdi. the toy train stops near tara devi temple and at Shoghi station, from where you can take a taxi or request a pick-up from your hotel. the toy train takes 5-6 hours to cover the 80-km distance between Kalka and Shoghi. Shared taxis

STAY
the state tourism department has encouraged the development of homestays in Shoghi. Staying with the locals is a good way to learn about their lives and savour home-cooked food, prepared from locally grown vegetables and spices. Shoghi offers several camping retreats and luxury resorts, catering to various types of holiday makers.

PAUGHAT SHIMLA

BudGet
Veer Garh is an hptdC-approved homestay that is a reminder of colonial times. managed by the owner, Smriti Awasthy, the mansion has eight double rooms that are perched on four different levels overlooking the mountains. the top level has a lounge with a spa and pool table. Solar geysers provide hot water. home-cooked meals and laundry services are available. (0177-2860650, 98165 68820; www. veergarh.com; doubles from `2,100.)

spluRGe
Aamod offers a lavish stay in wood and mud-finished cottages with stylish interiors. its built on land given by the states forest department and no trees were felled during the construction of its cottages. the resorts open

temple is located atop a peak of the same name. on Sundays and tuesdays, devotees organise a langar lunch here, out of goodwill or to thank the gods for favours that have been granted. Sitting cross-legged on the temple floor with fellow visitors and devotees, and eating delicious vegetarian food is an intimate community experience. the langar is held throughout the year. n

Seasons
Shoghi experiences pleasant weather throughout the year. in summer (march-june), the temperature ranges between 14-22C. during july and August it can rain for days together. Winters are cold, and the month of january sees the temperature
Tara Devi Temple

ShOGhi

ANANDPUR

TO DELHI

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AjAy Sood (train), URmimALA nAG (map)

lanGaR at taRa devi teMple this