Professional Documents
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MOLLY
{
2009 INSTALLATION GUIDE
EFFECTIVE
[ F U R N A C E]
}
GL A S S WORKS
{e f f e c t i v e h e a t g l a s s w o r k s . c o m
503-838-7385
Table Of Contents
Unpacking
Receiving And Unpalleting the Furnace
Assembly
Setting the Crucible Door Assembly Multimeter Element Preparation and Installation
2 3 4 5
Wiring
Cooling System Element Wiring Thermocouple Wiring Control Unit Wiring Start Up Procedures & Programming
6 7 8 9 10
Upkeep
Maintenance Trouble Shooting
11 12
1. Place the furnace where there is ample room to remove the pallet from underneath the furnace. 2. Undo the shipping straps and place them into the box provided for return shipping. 3. Align the forks of the forklift in between the wood stickers. Be sure to clear the riser bolts as well. The riser bolts are underneath the furnace. 4. Slide the forks in all the way, tilt back the forklift a little, lift up, remove the pallet, flip the wheels down and set the furnace down and roll it into place. 5. Get a drill and a #2 Phillips head, take the crate apart. Remove the top first and then remove the sides Lift the control stand with the forks underneath the crossbars in the middle above the transformer.
1. Remove the dog house cover that encases the clean out port. This requires a 3/8 hex driver bit. 2. Remove the frax plugs from the clean out port. The two inner plugs are 1 2600F frax. The plugs will need to be placed back in the same order, so be sure to keep them together as you take them out.
3. There are two sections of the crucible wrapping, the section around the pot and the section underneath. Use the cradle straps to lift the pot upward to remove the bubble wrap from underneath.
Insert a 2x4 or a large metal pipe. Get a secure position and use the sill as your lever point. Lift the pot upward. This usually requires two people to do this.
7. Once the bubble wrap is out, check to see that there is equal spacing from the walls, around the crucible. Wiggle the pot to see if it is unstable. If so, just use a bit of playground sand to keep the crucible from rocking. 8. After the crucible is set, return the frax plugs to the clean out port in their original order and reattach the dog house cover.
Door Assembly
The door track is a simple two track system. The top track is skewed outward from the furnace to allow the door to release instead of scrape along the face. The lower door track is adjustable for gathering port buildup. The door itself is adjustable on four bolts that hold the door to the door frame. These four posts allow you to adjust the seal on your door.
1. Slide the door frames together making sure the allthread is placed through the center hole on each frame.
This allthread controls the up down adjustment, but is only applicable during installation. It becomes a static measurement once set.
:Door Assembly
2. Carefully pick the door up and set it on the track. Use a crescent wrench, or a 5/8 wrench to adjust the height of the door.
Now is the time to adjust the allthread so the door is aligned with the gathering port.
3. Once the door is on and adjusted take the door switch controller thats wired to your control panel and attach it to the mounting plate, located on the top door track.
The controller will turn the furnace on when the door is shut and turn it off when it is open. This is why it is important to make sure that the toggle switch has fully clicked over. When the door is fully shut, the toggle should catch the bolt from the door castor and you should hear a little click.
:Door Assembly
4. The allthread for the lower door track adjustment should be sitting in the lower door track upright, just below the door.
The lower door track can be adjusted outward, in order to swing door slightly away from the gathering port as it slides open. This Keeps the two faces from scraping as the door slides open and closed. It will also help with the buildup of stringers.
5. Some of the furnace models leave the door tracks at dangerous heights. To solve this just cut a tennis ball or a racquet ball. Cut just one slit about 1/3 of the ball and slip the ball over the end of each track.
Multimeter
The multimeter is the most important tool to keeping your furnace running efficiently. This is how you will measure different electrical properties.
Taking Measurements:
There are two different ways to take a measurement: 1. Induction Clamp: The induction clamp at the top of the meter. To use it, clamp around the wire where testing is needed and pull the trigger on the side. *Only clamp insulated wires, do not clamp bare wires. Make sure that the clamp is secure to get an accurate reading. 2. Probes: Use the two probes to touch the testing sites where testing is desired. Most new meters have plugs inserted in to the probe connectors. Remove these and plug the probes into the appropriately colored slots at the bottom. *A bare wire or screw terminal is necessary to achieve a reading. Measurements will be displayed on the digital screen. OL (off line) it a default reading that appears when no measurement is present. *Take extreme caution when taking electrical measurements.
:Multimeter
Types of Measurements:
There are three main measurement settings that will be relevant for this product: 1. V 2. A 3. / (Volts) (Amperage) (Continuity/ Ohms/ Resistance) or use use the
You can select the type of *Notice that there are two measurement you would like different measurement settings to take by turning the dial to for V and A (V and A ) the appropriate icon. These settings use a different type of current and are not applicable to our products. All measurements taken with this meter will be in AC mode (alternating current), indicated by the . The only two buttons you will use from time to time are the sensitivity button (when higher precision readings are needed) and the backlight button (for You can also measure with dark areas). an auditory signal by turning the dial to the sound icon.
Terminal
Heater
clamp
Brick
1. To begin, remove the element boxes from the crate. Test each element for continuity before opening the element boxes by placing the probes to the terminal ends. Use the sound symbol on your multi meter as shown in the earlier section. 2. Once the continuity is established, clear a large work area to assemble the heater components as shown below. Along with the elements, you will need:
Tape measure 10 mm wrenches that are supplied A razor knife The element bricks The ceramic element clamps A chopstick or BBQ skewer And the ceramic fiber that is provided.
4. To place the element in the brick you must remove one of the wooden blocks. Take your razor knife and carefully slice the tape holding the block to the element. Now gently flip the element over and slice the other side. Be careful not to stress the element.
*Do not cut the tape on the other wooden block close to the heater portion. If you do cut the tape, replace it promptly. Do not handle the element without the wooden block in place.
*Only work on one element at a time, this reduces the chance of breakage
6. The element brick has two different ends, small holes for insertion and large holes for insulating. Insert the element into the small holes. If the element does not move effortlessly, STOP, take the element out and ream the holes with a piece of allthread. The one in the lower door track works well. Rub the inside of the holes to get proper alignment.
Try again. Do not force the element in, this will break the element. The wooden block stays in the element for stability, and gets burned out on warm up. It does not hurt anything to keep the block in the element.
10.
Once that is checked, tighten the bolt with the 10 mm wrenches. Do this slowly and carefully, tighten as much as you can. Dont be afraid to over tighten. You might hear some cracking noises, but that is only the ceramic holders, not the elements.
*It is a good idea to lay out all of your element assemblies, as shown to the right, before you begin installation.
12.
First, take an empty element brick to see if it fits in the hole properly. You want the brick to be slightly difficult to slide in and out. Next, make sure that the hole in the fiber is centered and square to the hole in the crown. If the hole needs to be realigned, take the kitchen knife (no serrated knives) and slice away the fiber frax to achieve the correct alignment. You cannot simply push the fiber over a little. It has to be cut. Now, remove any small scraps that are below on the crown so the element brick can make a good seal.
14.
15.
16. Once the element brick gets to the fiber, re-position your
hands to sit on top of the fiber as shown. When your hands are in position slowly work the brick down through the top. *Listen and feel for any scraping that the element may do on the way down. If the element does scrape, angle the brick away from the side that is scraping and insert more frax. If the scraping persists, STOP, take the element out and cut a larger hole in the fiber frax. Then try again.
18.
Stuff pieces of fiber in around the element brick. Fill in completely around the brick all the way to the crown. This is important for the health of the furnace. Holes in the insulation allow off-gassing to eat away at the crown and element bricks. When stuffing be careful to keep the element perpendicular to the top. After stuffing around the bricks, cut sections of the diplag provided to seal in the fiber around the brick. Cut the diplag pieces provided into rectangles the same size as the top of the brick and then cut an X in for the element terminals to slide through. The diplag should cover all of the element clamp. The diplag is fiberglass cloth that has been immersed is wheat gluten. Just wet it and smear it to get a seal it dries in a few hours.
19.
Cooling System
The cooling system helps dissipate the heat before it can reach the electrical connections. The cooling system is required on all the furnace models except for the #75 model (this is because the #75 does not transmit as much heat as the other models). Keeping the electrical connections cool is essential to the efficiency of the unit. The components of the cooling system are: e b c a e d a The blower b The blower manifold c Barb fittings d The element coolers e The clear vinyl tubing
1. First, install the element coolers. They slide over the terminal shanks with the tube pointing away. The coolers are metal and not ceramic for durability.
Make sure to keep the coolers angled so they do not touch each other. Allowing the element coolers to touch may cause a short in the element.
:Cooling System
2. Next, find the tubing connection pattern for your furnace. Each grouping of elements must connect to the barb fittings on the appropriate face of the manifold.
Each arrangement is differnt so be sure and follow the one that matches your furnace. The numbers refer to the number of elements in the furnace.
4
a b
6
c a b c
8
c a b c
9
c a b c
:Cooling System
3. Next, we connect the coolers to the manifold using the tubing. The furthest elements connect to the lowest barbs on their respective manifold face (a, b or c) as seen below, this allows the tubing to layer and stack more evenly.
a c
:Cooling System
Pick a group to start with (a, b or c) and Insert one end of the tubing on to the lowest hose barb fitting on that face of the manifold. Measure out the length to the furthest element cooler of that group and use a razor knife and cut the tube. Leave about five inches of extra length, you may have to reposition the tube later . Connect the other end of the tubing to cooler so there is about a half an inch of tubing on the cooler .
4. Connect all the coolers to the manifold one at a time, connecting the furthest coolers to the lowest barbs. The tubing must all fit between two openings, one on either side of the manifold.
*Placing the tubing outside of these uprights will not let the top cage go back on. The larger models may require that the tubing be looped around. *Do not let the tubing get kinked, as no air will pass through and the cooler will heat up.
Element Wiring
Wiring in the elements requires:
The element straps The 10 mm wrenches that were provided The 5/16 hardware A socket And a crescent wrench or wrench In element sizing there are two measurements: thickness and length. The thickness is what is referenced here. Elements are identified by two thickness measurements and represented as heater thickness/terminal thickness (mm). With furnaces, there are two sizes of elements that are used: either the 6/12 elements or the 9/18 elements. The #75, #100 and #200 furnaces all use 6/12 elements and the 300# and up use 9/18 elements. This is relevant because the 6/12 elements require one strap per element terminal and the 9/18 elements require two straps per element terminal.
1. The element straps come in two parts: the strap itself and the clip to hold it securely on the element. The nut is fused into place so you have to unscrew the bolt to fit the clip over the strap. Assemble all clamps and straps and leave the bolts loose so you can fit them over the terminal ends.
:Element Wiring
2. Next, with the bolt unscrewed and the end clip on, gently wiggle the strap back and forth as you slowly move the strap down the terminal. It helps to brace the element brick with your hand placed on the element clamp.
*If you are having a hard time getting the strap on, it may be that some of the straps can get knots in the braiding. Look inside the element loop to see if there are any obstructions in the path. You may need to ream them out or get another strap. Sometimes they just have to be worked down by holding both sides of the strap assembly and wiggled down evenly.
3. Place all the straps on the terminals, make sure that the straps are completely on the white part of the element terminal.
*If there are two straps per terminal keep them both as high up on the terminal as possible. Two straps are just a little bigger than the connection area provided on the terminal.
:Element Wiring
4. Arrange the straps according to the pattern that corresponds with your furnace type, provided in the following pages (numbers). Each furnace and phase has a specified number of straps, and designated connections.
*Be sure to arrange the straps with the ends pointing towards the outside of the furnace so the links do not touch each other. Allowing the straps to tough will cause short. *Above:#200 & 300 Single Phase wiring pattern.
5. Next, you join the strap ends. Get the 5/16 hardware, the 1/2 wrenches, and the bottle of No-Alox. Begin by applying the No-Alox to the strap ends.
Connect the strap ends from each link together by putting the hardware through the holes. If there are two straps per terminal connect all four straps together. Do not separate the two pairs of straps. Each bolt assemble has to have two washers and at least one lock washer. Some furnaces will use longer bolts for the welding cables. If this is the case with your furnace, be sure to use the shorter ones to connect the strap ends. There are also some extra bolts incase one gets too corroded to use later.
:Element Wiring
6. Now, pull the welding cables
through the strain relief plate on the back. The designations of the welding cables are shown on the wiring pattern diagrams as well. Use the larger bolts provided. Each cable is labeled. Place according to the diagrams. *Do not lay the welding cables across any straps or elements
7. Before moving on to the next step, re-tighten all of the bolts on the straps and all of the connection bolts. Loose connections are the #1 cause of failure in an electrical system.
Dont put the top cage on yet. Wait until the very end, you will need to tighten the connections one more time.
:Element Wiring
The diagrams that follow are labeled accordingly to the phase and furnace size. They give accurate placements of the strap connections so follow the cable designations and strap patterns closely.
Single Phase: #75 - element size 6/12, 280 le/400 lu #100 - element size 6/12, 300 le/450 lu
:Element Wiring
Single Phase: #200 - element size 6/12, 300 le/450 lu #300 - element size 9/18, 300 le/500 lu
:Element Wiring
Single Phase: #400 - element size 9/18, 315 le/500 lu #600 - element size 9/18, 500 le/500 lu
:Element Wiring
Three Phase: #100 - element size 6/12, 300 le/450 lu #200 - element size 6/12, 300 le/450 lu #300 - element size 9/18, 315 le/500 lu
:Element Wiring
Three Phase: #400 - element size 9/18, 315 le/500 lu #600 - element size 9/18, 300 le/500 lu
Thermocouple Wiring
Now that you have set up the cooling system and wired the elements, the next step is the Thermocouple wiring. The thermocouple wires are type R, rated for temperatures up to 3000F. There are two thermocouple wires in the assembly; one is wired to your 981 controller and one is wired to your Over-Temperature Protection. When the Furnace is heated up you will notice a difference in the temperature readings, these readings will come closer together. While thermocouples are a good indication of the temperature, you should always pay more attention to the glass rather than the temperature reading. That is why you should not rely on exact temperatures for batching, cooking or working.
Flange Fitting
Thermocouple Wires
Liquid-Tite
:Thermocouple Wiring
1. Unwrap the thermocouple head and insert the flange fitting on the side of the furnace. Carefully match the threads and rotate a couple of threads for stability. Do not tighten all the way. After use, damage can occur if the thermocouple has been tightened too much. 2. Place the liquid-tite in the fitting as pictured. Pull the thermocouple wires through, then insert the liquid-tite into the fitting and screw down the compression fitting.
3. Push some of the wire back into the liquid-tite fitting for slack when rewiring occurs. Cut the wires to length as shown and strip the wires so there is about of exposed wire. Then fold the exposed wire in half.
:Thermocouple Wiring
4. The black wire is positive and the red wire is negative. There are positive and negative symbols engraved on the ceramic plate underneath both thermocouples.
5. The center screws on each thermocouple should never be unscrewed. The outer screws are for the holes that the wires go into in the terminal block. Insert the exposed folded end into the connector with positive and negative in the appropriate sides and screw down tightly.
*Extreme caution needs to be taken when working with electricity. A licensed electrician should make all the connections
Control Unit
*Breaker Box
Control Panel
*MFD
Transformer
* The Breaker Box and the MFD are not included. The Breaker Box should be your existing box and the MFD will have to be purchased
Safety
SCR
Contactors
Fuses
Low Power
High Power
Blower
Thermocouples
4. The power wiring and the control circuit to the breaker box
480v 1/3 21 25 36 62 73 21 25 43 57 73
FLA
FLA x 125%
26 31 54 71 91
FLA x 125%
25 12 35 10 50 8 65 6 85 100 115 130 150 175 200 230 255 285 310 335 380 4 3 2 1 1/0 2/0 3/0 4/0 250 300 350 400 500
AWG or kcmil
Effective Heat Glass Works, Installation Guide
Now you are ready to connect both the Control Circuit wire and the Power Wiring to the Breaker Box. The furnace requires a dedicated breaker that meets the specifications provided by the specs sheet. * Wiring electrical circuits can be dangerous. Always check and verify that the power is off. There need to be two separate circuits; one for the high voltage that powers the elements and a 10 amp 120 volt breaker dedicated to the control circuitry.
#100 unit
#300 unit
#300 unit
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1. First, Dial up the 981 to about 250F manually using the arrow buttons on the right. These buttons correspond to DISPAY-2 Let the furnace run for about 5 minutes.
WATLOW
Display-1
PROCESS
DSPY
MODE
Display-2
L1 L2 L3 L4
DEV %OUT
2. After the furnace has been running for 5 minutes, you will need to verify a few things. What you need to verify is determined by the type of Furnace you have. #70:
Check that the heaters are all glowing.
#100, 200:
Check that the heaters are all glowing. DISPLAY-1 and DISPLAY-2 read within 10 of each other. WATLOW
250
PROCESS
a2ol
Check that the heaters are all glowing. DISPLAY-1 and DISPLAY-2 read within 10 of each other. DISPAY-2 will be flashing between the set temperature and A2LO until the temperatures are close.
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3. Next, turn the power OFF using the toggle switch on the front of the control panel. You may notice smoke coming off of the element straps this is just excess water leaving the No-Alox. 4. Now that the furnace is OFF, retighten all of the element strap connections and put the cage on. 5. Turn the furnace back ON. Press the HOLD/RUN button once and FILE 1 will appear on DISPLAY-1. Press the HOLD/ RUN button again to begin running File one. The light at the corner of the button will come on.
WATLOW
F i le 1
PROCESS HOLD RUN
10
1. To Program the 981 for a batching schedule press the MODE button. This opens the operations menu. Using the up and down arrow buttons, scroll until PROG appears on DISPLAY-1.
WATLOW
Prog
PROCESS
MODE
WATLOW
2. Now press MODE, this takes you to the file prompt. The default is 1. If a different file is desired, use the arrows to the file # you wish.
1
PROCESS
F i le
MODE
WATLOW
1
PROCESS
4. Now press MODE, This will also take you to the STEP menu. Like the FILE menu, STEP 1 is the default. Again, use the up and down arrow buttons to go to the step # you need.
seep
Effective Heat Glass Works, Installation Guide
10
WATLOW
end
PROCESS
seyp
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Maintenance
Several Maintenance issues will arise form time to time. Here are the steps that will need to be taken to maintaining your furnace:
the top of the furnace every 4 months. This includes the element straps and cooling tubes and welding cables. Doing so increases the life and helps you to notice when certain ones may need to be changed. If a strap or welding cable is dull looking, it is still usable but may corrode faster if not looked after. However, If a strap is matted looking, flaky or crusty, REPLACE IT. I welding cable or lug is corroded, cut the cable back past the corroded part and attach new lug.
2. Check for volcanos or chimneys along the element bricks when you check the connections. If you see any glowing chimneys along side the element bricks, gently stuff as much frax fiber down the hole as you can to plug it up.
If a lot of off gassing occurs where the frax has been eaten away, cut out the damaged frax and replace it with new frax.
:Maintenance
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3. Build up happens around the door depending on the type of glass you use and how you batch it. It it does, while the furnace is OFF and cold, take a diamond angle grinder pad to it. It will not hurt the casting. 4. Replacing the door casting is simple. Pop out the casting by unscrewing the whole assembly and removing it from the door frame. Then unscrew the rest of the housing and pull the housing off of the casting. If you need to replace the frax, use 2600 fiber and squeeze five 1 layers in the shell and put back together in the original order.
When setting the first layer of nuts on the all thread posts, measure them 3-1/2 from the casting surface.
11
:Maintenance
Replacing the face casting:
To replace a face casting, do steps 1-11 of the Crucible Chance. Then, continue with this section.
1. To begin, undo the straps on the metal side panels and take out the self drilling screws on the bottom of the side panels. Only undo the straps of the part coming off. Do not undo all the straps on a furnace.
2. Now peel the sides forward where the stainless face releases. Then, lift the sides out of the base clips. Begin removing the Frax around the gathering port, keeping it a intact as you can.
:Maintenance
3. The frax on the side of the gathering port is layered on. Gently and slightly peel them away from the castings about 2.
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4. Wrap a chain hoist through the casting (the casting wont break). Lift it straight up and out of its position, trying not to disturb any of the frax and set it down out of the way.
5. Pick the new casting up in the same manner, rotate accordingly and lower into place. If the crucible has already been taken out, it may be helpful to stand inside the furnace to align it as you lower it into place.
11
:Maintenance
6. Shore up the casting joints by using a mallet or a dead blow hammer. Do not hit the casting directly, Use a 2x4 to protect the casting. Make sure all the joints line up inside.
7. Squeeze the frax pieces you took out back around the bottom of the face casting in the same order they were in. Stuff as much frax back as you can. You may also have to add more frax.
Do not replace the frax above the face casting, you will do this after you reattach the panels.
:Maintenance
9. Replace the side panels exactly the way you took them off. If the casting catches a little, dont be afraid to bang it into place. Put the straps back together and replace the screws on the base clips.
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10.
With everything back on, stuff frax around the face casting. This will take a fair amount of frax. Stuff it up to the top of the casting. When you replace the crucible and crown you will continue stuffing before putting the top layers of frax back on.
11. Now you can continue with the putting your furnace back
together. Refer to the installation sections for assembly.
12
:Maintenance
Changing the Crucible:
Crucible changes are recommended about every 80 batches and when a leak occurs. The First step is to open up the clean out port and scrape out any glass that has accumulated in the bottom of the base casting. This is a recommended maintenance step to take whenever you change your crucible but is a critical step if your crucible is cracked.
1. Turn the furnace up to 2300 F. Once it is warmed up, remove the dog house cover from the furnace to remove the frax plugs.
As you pull the frax plugs out, keep them in order as you will be placing them back inside the clean out port in that order when you are done.
:Maintenance
3. To change a crucible, pry away the pot from the sill and place a small section of soft brick between the crucible and the sill of the face casting while the furnace is still hot. This ensures that the crucible doesnt cool and harden to the castings. Once the soft brick is in place, open the door and turn the furnace OFF by flipping the breaker switch.
When the temperature is tolerable, remove the brick and begin freeing the crucible. It should drop to level easily. If not, use a metal pry bar through the clean out port.
12
2. Next, start removing the thermocouple by unwiring and removing the liquid-tite from the fitting. Then, use a 5/16 hex driver to unscrew the self-drilling screws that hold the flange in place. Set the screws and the thremocouple somewhere safe.
12
Crucible Change
3. Next, undo all the connections
between the elements, leaving the straps connected to the element terminals. Disconnect and remove the welding cables as well. Remove the clear hoses from the coolers by cutting a slit down the hose the length of the connection and wiggling it off. Leave the hoses connected to the manifold.
4. Remove all the elements with extreme care as some deformity has occurred due to the temperature. Place all the elements safely away from the work area.
5. A chain hoist is required to remove the crown and the crucible. An average 1 ton chain hoist is more than adequate. A beam that is high enough to compensate for the length of the hoist and the crucible is critical.
If the hoist is not placed high enough the crucible will not clear the top ring. A forklift works well if your ceilings are high enough to lift the forks to the proper height.
:Crucible Change
6. Fish a strap through two of the holes that seem to be centered on the crown.
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7. Next, you will tie the straps into a knot. A Water Knot is used because it is solid and removable. Try to tighten the knot so there is as little slack in the toe rope as you can get.
12
:Crucible Change
8. Move either the fork lift or the chain hoist into place. Lift slowly and begin to raise the crown off the top. Lift the crown free then move it away from the furnace set the crown on 2x4s or some blocks. Something to keep it from pinching the tow cable. 9. Lift the crown free, then move it away from the furnace and set it down on some 2x4s or some blocks; something to keep it from pinching the toe rope.
10. Using
nylon strapping rated to 1,000, tilt the crucible back and feed the trap underneath across the bottom. Be sure that the strap crosses directly underneath to ensure that the crucible does not fall out of the harness when you lift it. Now, place a second strap perpendicular to the previous one. Tie the second strap securely across the top, keep the slack in both straps exactly the same to create a tension cradle for lifting the crucible.
:Crucible Change
11.
Gently lift the crucible out of the furnace using the chain hoist or forklift. Raise the crucible high enough to clear the top ring. Depending on the setup, move the furnace or the crucible to the side. Set down the crucible and strap the new one in the same way, making sure that the straps cross the bottom center of the crucible. Tie the straps securely and tight. Leave as little slack as possible because the straps stretch and may not leave enough room for you to clear the top ring.
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under the crucible. Once you have dropped the crucible in you can stabilize it by scooting the bricks around by means of reaching through the clean out port. Only the #100 furnaces require bricks.
make sure it is stable. Pick the crown back up with the chain hoist or the forklift and place it back on top of the furnace. Make sure that all the frax is clear of the crown so you can get a tight level seal. If you have to cut some frax back to get the crown back in, you have to stuff the top portion again around the crown with a little more frax to ensure proper insulation
12
:Crucible Change
14.
Line the crown up exactly the way it came off so that the elements will not obstruct the door opening or the thermocouple hole. The thermocouple should line up in between the elements in the chamber. Once the crown is back on, start putting the elements back in and reconnecting everything on the furnace. Refer to the installation section for complete details.
Trouble Shooting
The power is on but no elements are on:
1. Check to see if the door switch is triggered 2. Check the fuses on the contactor circuits 3. Are the contactors engaged? 4. What is the controller set to? 5. Is a breaker tripped? 6. Is the SCR throwing an alarm? If so, Refer to the Watlow Power Series manual for instructions.
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