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Table of Contents
Why Bubble Bath?.................................................................................................... 1 What is Bubble Bath?.............................................................................................. 2-4 Why Should I Make My Own Bubble Bath? ................................................................. 5-6 The History of Bubble Bath...................................................................................... 7-8 Bubble Bath Ingredients............................................................................................. 9 Tips for Beginners................................................................................................... 10 Deciding on a Recipe............................................................................................... 11 Precautions for Working With Lye.......................................................................... 12-13 Making Your Own Liquid Bubble Bath Base: Cold -Process Method..................................14 Making Your Own Liquid Bubble Bath Base: Hot-Process Method...............................15-16 Neutralizing the Excess Lye...................................................................................... 17 Testing the pH of Your Bubble Bath Base.................................................................... 18 Solid Bubble Bath Bars............................................................................................ 19 Bath Salts.......................................................................................................... 20-21 Bath Bombs....................................................................................................... 22-23 Bath Beads............................................................................................................ 24 Bath Oil................................................................................................................. 25 Bath Jelly............................................................................................................... 26 Bath Soaks............................................................................................................. 27 Carrier Oils Used for Bath Products............................................................................ 28 Table 1: Carrier Oils............................................................................................ 28-31 Properties of Fatty Acids........................................................................................... 32 Scenting Your Bubble Bath................................................................................... 33-35 Essential Oils and Their Uses in Aromatherapy............................................................. 36 Table 2: Essential Oils......................................................................................... 37-42 Coloring Your Bubble Bath.................................................................................... 43-45 Table 3: Colorants............................................................................................... 45-46 Sodium Lauryl Sulfate vs. Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate ................................................... 47 Liquid Bubble Bath Recipes.................................................................................. 48-50
Bath Oil Recipes................................................................................................. 51-52 Bath Bomb Recipes............................................................................................ 53-56 Bubble Bar Recipe.................................................................................................. 57 Bath Salt Recipes............................................................................................... 58-59 Bath Soak Recipes.................................................................................................. 60 Selling Your Bubble Bath...................................................................................... 61-62 Packaging Your Bubble Bath ................................................................................. 63-65 Get Creative!.......................................................................................................... 66 Batch Codes........................................................................................................... 67 FDA Regulation of Bubble Bath.................................................................................. 68 Liability.............................................................................................................. 69-71 Glossary of Terms............................................................................................... 72-73
energy is supplied by the soap, and allows the soil to bind with the soap and get carried away by the clean water. The thermal energy required to make bubble bath work is supplied by the hot water in which most people bathe. The kinetic (or motion) energy comes from the aeration of the water, either by the water cascading from the faucet , by hand, or by mechanical aeration (i.e. bubble jets below the water's surface). The main difference between bubble bath and soap is that bubble bath is designed to make bubbles, not to wash away dirt and grime, so it works slightly differently. Each molecule has a hydrophobic and hydrophilic end , just like with soap, but the difference is that instead of bonding to oil, the hydrophobic end bonds to air. When the bubble bath is mixed with the water and aerated (usually with mechanical aeration such as a hand or water coming from the faucet) , and the molecules mix with the water and air, a fluffy foam is created that rests on top of the water. This is the main reason why bubble bath makes much longer -lasting and voluminous foam than, say, bar soap. This is also why, if you are particularly dirty when you get into a bubble bath, the bubbles will go away fairly quickly; the hydrophobic end will bond to the soil and wash it away instead of bonding to the air and making bubbles . The bubbles that make a bubble bath can be produced in a variety of ways . As previously mentioned, the water must be aerated to produce bubbles; that is , air has to be mixed with the water somehow. There are a few ways this can be done. Whereas most home bubble baths are created just by the water cascading from the faucet and mixing air with the water in the tub , the same goal can also be achieved with jets, such as in a hot tub. Water hardness is one factor which greatly influences the efficacy of bubble bath and soap . Hard water refers to water that contains an overabundance of minerals (such as manganese , magnesium, calcium, and iron). When bubble bath or soap are used in this type of water, some of the molecules attach themselves to these minerals, instead of the soil (or air), which means that soap won't clean as well, and bubble bath foam won't last as long. This creates two problems: there are fewer molecules available for making bubbles, and the molecules that react with the minerals may bind to surfaces and leave a hard residue. As a result of this, many soaps and bubble
bath products are made with harsh synthetic detergents that work a little better in hard water, but are very hard on skin and hair. Imagine washing your body with engine degreaser, or dishwashing liquid, or glass cleaner some of the synthetic detergents used in these dangerous and skin-irritating compounds are also used in soap and bubble bath .
utilize expensive ingredients of superior quality and have a luxurious product that is costly, but of a higher grade. You can also go anywhere between the two extremes; most people find that they can make a product that is of a higher quality than commercial products , and that they can do so for relatively little expense. You will also be able to address other concerns that you may have with the quality of commercial bubble bath: Was the product tested on animals? How long has it been sitting on the shelf? Is there anything in it that will cause an allergic reaction? Is it priced fairly? These, and many other questions, can be answered when you make your own bath products . Customization. When you purchase commercial products , you have to choose from one of only several varieties, which the companies chose to make because they seemed profitable. This means that you may have to compromise to get a product that is mostly satisfactory; for example, you might get the sensitive skin variety in a scent you don't really like, because the scent you love is in a harsh formula that makes you itchy. When you make your own products, you can control every aspect of your bubble bath; you can customize it to match your skin type , make it in your favorite color and scent, and choose the form it comes in (bubble bath, bath bombs, bath fizzies, etc.). There is no limit to the degree of customization when it comes to making your own beauty products . Giving handmade gifts. You can use it for yourself, but your homemade bubble bath can make a great gift as well. You could assemble handmade spa baskets with a variety of products and give them as gifts for holidays, graduations, birthdays, anniversaries, or any other gift-giving occasion. People love to pamper themselves with luxurious beauty products, and they will love it even more knowing that you made these products with your own hands. Customized bath baskets are a special, one-of-a-kind gift that lets someone know you cared enough to put time and effort into making something for them , which is a rare occurrence in today's world of e-cards and online gift certificates . A fun and inexpensive hobby. Making your own bubble bath is a great way to learn a new skill, and enjoy a hobby that is both fun and practical . Not only will you be able to enjoy knowing that you created something from scratch , but your pride in your creations will be magnified by the fact that you made something that is both luxurious and useful.
conditions such as rheumatoid arthritis, and even tissue debridement for burn victims . One of the first references to a bubble bath in pop culture was in the 1936 play The Women, in which one of the characters uses alkyl sulfate surfactants to make the foam . It is thought that a similar compound was used in Dreft's marketing campaign , beginning in 1933. Bubble baths are often utilized in theatre and film because they allow an actor to be shown bathing, while still providing a curtain of bubbles to preserve his or her modesty. This means that the actors can be naked and unseen , or they can actually remain partly clothed, simply giving the audience the illusion of nudity. Bubble baths have been most popular for bathing children , particularly since an ad campaign in the 1960s claimed that adding the bubble bath to bath water would clean a child without the need for scrubbing, wiping, or other bubble bath products. While this claim is dubious, one thing is for sure: children are fascinated by bubble baths , and adding a little to the water is a great incentive to get them into the tub . Effervescent bath products, such as bath bombs, didn't become really popular until the end of the twentieth century. It is possible to mechanically aerate a foam bath for example, putting bubble bath in a jacuzzi but this hasn't been a popular practice, mainly because one runs the risk of creating far more bubbles than intended .
Deciding on a Recipe
There are a variety of bubble bath recipes available to choose from , and it is of course possible to create your own . The recipe you use will depend on the qualities you want your final product to possess; do you want a solid bubble bath , or liquid? Do you want a bubble bath that will work well in cold or hard water? Are you making bubble bath for sensitive skin? Some oils are more readily absorbed into the skin than others, and each oil that can be used for making bubble bath has different properties. A similar choice must be made when using lye; it comes in granular and flake forms, and different types of lye can be used for different forms of bubble bath. For instance, sodium laureth sulfoacetate is usually used for solid bubble bath, whereas potassium hydroxide lye is commonly used for liquid bubble bath. Whatever recipe you choose, or create, make sure that you measure the ingredients in correct proportions, and add them at the proper times . It is generally best to weigh the ingredients using a kitchen scale , instead of measuring them with measuring spoons or cups , because different materials have different densities , and volume measurements can be inaccurate. Also, if you are making your bubble bath base from scratch , it is important to use a lye calculator to determine the amount of lye needed for your recipe . Using the calculator, you can adjust the amount of lye you want to use based on the amount of fat you want leftover in your bubble bath. The lye will only saponify a certain amount of oil, so to have more oils leftover, use less lye, or vice versa . Bubble bath with an excess fat level above 5% will moisturize skin better, and make it feel softer, than one with less than 5%; however, some people might feel that the soap with 5% or more excess fat level leaves their skin feeling greasy. An important consideration when calculating the amount of lye to use is, of course, skin type; when making bubble bath for dry skin, you would want the excess fat level to be closer to 5%, but if it is being made for individuals with greasy skin, less than 5% will produce a cleaner feeling.
produce hydrogen gas, which is extremely flammable, and explosive. Also, the lye should never come into contact with sugar; this mixture will produce poisonous carbon monoxide gas. Materials that are suitable for contact with lye, at room temperature, are: high-density polyethylene (HDPE), polypropylene (PP), polyvinyl chloride (PVC), silicon rubber, stainless steel, glass, and porcelain. Stainless steel is the best material for heating vessels, as it can withstand elevated temperatures. Plastics may soften at higher temperatures, so unless the plastic has already been tested, glass or stainless steel are the best materials for mixing containers. Because lye is a corrosive material, any amount of it that you order or purchase will most likely come with a material safety data sheet, or MSDS. This sheet will list: Manufacturer or vendor information Chemical composition Hazards and potential health effects First aid measures Fire fighting measures Spill measures Handling and storage Exposure and protection Physical and chemical properties Stability and reactivity Toxicological information Environmental information Disposal considerations Transportation information Regulatory information
way around, because when lye and water are mixed they get very hot , and pouring the water into the lye can make the water boil instantly, which could result in spills and burns. 16.5 oz. Sunflower Oil 7 oz. Coconut Oil 5.5 oz. Potassium Hydroxide lye (KOH) 16.5 oz. distilled water (for the lye mixture) 40 oz. distilled water (to dilute the bubble bath paste) Either 2 oz. of boric acid, or 3 oz. of borax, mixed into 10 or 6 oz. of water Measure out the oils, and put them in a crock-pot, or double-boiler, on low heat, until it reaches approximately 160 degrees Fahrenheit . While they heat, mix the lye into the water, being careful not to spill or splash, and using all of the proper safety techniques . Once the lye is completely dissolved, mix it with the heated oils. (Do not let either the oils or the lye-water mixture cool; mix them when they are both at around 160 degrees .) Stir the oil and water mixture together, slowly at first, then faster; it is easier if you use a stick blender for this part. Keep blending the mixture until it reaches trace; be patient , as this may take up to 30 minutes. Cook the mixture for 3-4 hours, checking on it and stirring it every 20-30 minutes . Use the boiling water test described above to see if the mixture is done when it is translucent in the pot. If it is, heat the other 40 ounces of distilled water to boiling , and then mix it with the bubble bath paste. Stir it in a little, turn off the heat, and come back and check in about one hour. It will probably still be chunky, so stir it again and wait a bit longer. You can actually just let it sit overnight at this point, or you can keep stirring and waiting.
Bath Salts
Bath salts are an alternative bath product that don't offer the lather of bubble bath, but still create a scent-filled and colorful way to add a little luxury to your bath water. The Chinese realized the healing and rejuvenating potential of bath salts around 2700 B.C.E., and Hippocrates often recommended that his patients bathe in sea water to soothe aching muscles or joints. Using bath salts actually changes some of the properties of the water. Anyone who has taken a long bubble bath, or done a lot of dishes, knows that keeping part of your body immersed in water for long periods results in pruning - skin swells , and looks wrinkly and pale. This is because skin absorbs a great deal of water. Adding bath salts to the water helps to reduce this effect. Bath salts can also help to soften skin, particularly callouses, and help with exfoliating them. If you have hard water, adding bath salts to the tub will make it easier to rinse away soap, because the salts act as a water softener. They even increase the density of the water, making your body feel lighter in it, which is why they are commonly used (in large amounts) for flotation therapy. They are great for your skin and muscles, and if they're scented, they can deliver a therapeutic bath experience to relax and rejuvenate you before or after a long day. It's difficult to use fragrance or essential oils in a bath in an undiluted form , and they tend to evaporate quickly; bath salts hold the scent, and keep it around longer. There are even some bath salt formulas which have been developed to have the same properties of a natural mineral bath or hot spring. Technically, all soap and therefore, all bubble bath is a form of salt. However, the term bath salts is used specifically to refer to products that have a crystalline structure , and which have specific properties. The main ingredients in bath salts are Epsom salts , baking soda, and another variety of salt. Iodized salt (table salt) can be drying to your skin , so it's best to use sea salt, or another type of salt that is intended for bathing . Borax can also be used. Here is a recipe for basic bath salts, which can then be customized to your liking with scents and colors.
3 cups Epsom salt 2 cups baking soda 1 cup sea salt or borax Mix the ingredients together in a large bowl until they are well blended . This is the base for your salts, and you can divide it into smaller batches to make a variety of products . If you'd like, you can mix dried herbs in with the salts as well; in that case , you may want to put the salts in a tea ball or herbal sachet , to keep the herbs from floating or going down the drain. If you use fragrance or essential oils in your bath salts , be careful how much you add. A good baseline is around 1-2% essential oils, or ounce for every 6 cups of bath salts . Add them a few drops at a time, and stir constantly; the mixture should be strongly scented, and each chunk of salt should be coated, but adding too much will cause the salts to clump and harden in the container, so it's a delicate balance. There are two additives which you can use in your bath salts which can really make a difference in the final quality of the product: dendritic salt , and Natrasorb Bath. Dendritic salt is a very fine, crystallized salt, and as a result of its crystalline structure it has a great deal of surface area. It helps to hold the fragrance and color of your bath salts , and will reduce clumping; add up to 1 cup (for the above recipe) of dendritic salt to the rest of your bath salts. Natrasorb Bath is similar to dendritic salt , in that it helps your salts to retain fragrance , and reduces clumping. Natrasorb is a tapioca starch which is hydrophilic and absorbs oil , and helps you to put fragrant or nutritive oils in your salts without making them clumpy or greasy. As the starch dissolves in the water, it releases the oils, giving off bursts of fragrance and skin-conditioning oils. It dissolves completely, and leaves no residue, so it's perfect for baths. If you're using the above recipe, use about cup of Natrasorb to pack your salts with fragrance, color and nutrient-rich oils. The best way to use either of these additives is to mix the essential or nutritive oils directly into them, then add them to the bath salts. This will ensure that they keep the fragrance well.
Bath Bombs
Bath bombs are a great way to make bath-time fun, especially for kids. The bombs are usually made in the shape of a sphere or half-sphere but you can use different molds to make them in any shape you'd like and when dropped in water, they are fizzy and fun! Bath bombs have effervescent properties, meaning that when they are mixed with the bath water they erupt into thousands of tiny bubbles . This reaction is produced by the reaction of a carbonate or bicarbonate (in this case, baking soda) with an organic acid (citric acid). They are always solid, because that is the only way to prevent the baking soda and citric acid from reacting immediately. They fizz when they hit the water because the baking soda and citric acid are suspended in the water and allowed to mix , which results in a reaction that releases carbon dioxide gas hence the bubbles . If you are looking for foam on top of the water, you won't want to use bath bombs, as they produce very little. To make bath bombs, you'll need: 1 part citric acid 2 parts baking soda Witch hazel (in a spray bottle) Coloring Dome-shaped mold First, mix the citric acid and the baking soda. Blend them together, and keep blending until they are completely mixed; this step is very important, and you may even want to use a mixer. If these two ingredients aren't blended together thoroughly, the mixture will be grainy, and the bath bombs won't fizz the way they should . Next, add any desired colorants. For this recipe, you'll want to use dry or powdered pigments, instead of liquid or gel ones. Don't worry if the color is light, and don't add too much; the color will show up more later. Take your dry mixture, put it in a large bowl, and begin spritzing the mixture with witch hazel while you stir it with your free hand . Keep testing the mixture, and make sure you add
just the right amount of witch hazel. If you add too little, your bombs will be grainy and fall apart , but if you add too little, the mixture will begin to fizz, and you will lose some of the fizziness in the tub . The mixture is ready to be molded if you take a bit of it and pinch it between your fingers, and it sticks together. You need to mold it rather quickly, because if you wait, it will begin to dry, and adding more witch hazel will ruin the mixture . Pack the mixture into the molds tightly; the denser the bombs are , the better, as they will be less likely to fall apart, and create a better reaction when you put them in the tub . Leave them in the molds for a few minutes , then tap them out onto a sheet of wax paper. Mist them very lightly with the witch hazel; this will create a harder outer shell that will help keep them from falling apart. Let them air dry for 3 to 4 hours, and then package them however you'd like.
Bath Beads
Bath beads are yet another way to liven up any bath water. They are especially nice to give as gifts, in decorative packaging, and offer the same wonderful scents and ease of use as bath salts . Making bath beads is a very simple process, and one that can save you a great deal of money, as luxury bath beads are quite expensive. Not only that, but if you're giving them as gifts, your loved ones will surely appreciate the time you put into making them. To make bath beads, you will need: cup powdered milk 2 tablespoons of powdered (confectioner's) sugar 2 tablespoons borax powder cup rose water or orange water Essential oil blend Colorant Combine the powdered milk, borax, and powdered sugar in a large bowl until they are well-blended. Add approximately of the rose water or orange water, and your essential oils and colorants (if desired), and continue to stir. As you stir, slowly add the rose water or orange water until you have a mixture that resembles the consistency of Play-Doh or modeling clay. Using your hands, roll the dough into small balls. A good size is approximately a teaspoon of dough per ball , but use your judgment, and make them larger or smaller if you want. Place the balls on a sheet of wax paper, or a similar non-stick surface. Allow them to dry for about 24 hours, then package them. Store the beads in a cool, dry place, just as you would bath bombs, to keep them from reacting with humidity in the air. This will make them sticky, or cause the colors to change. At bath time, drop one or two of the beads into the water the amount you use will depend upon your personal preferences, as well as the size of the beads. If you like, you can also make these beads in fun little shapes by using candy molds or other small molds, similar to the process of making a bath bomb . Pack the material into the molds, let it set for a while, then pop it out and package it.
Bath Oil
Bath oils are great for those with dry, itchy or chafed skin. The warmth of the bath water, and the skin's tendency to absorb water when submerged in it for long periods , helps your skin to absorb the healing and nourishing oils , resulting in soft and moisturized skin. The difference between bathing with bath oils and applying oil to your skin is that the bath oil is absorbed by your skin during the bath , whereas oil applied to skin's surface is likely to remain there, resulting in a greasy feeling, and little nourishment to your skin. Bath oil is, essentially, a mixture of essential oils and carrier oils. Carrier oils such as jojoba, coconut, sesame or olive oil are absorbed into the skin , and are what provides it with nourishment and moisture. The essential oils are just for pleasure, and aromatherapy benefits. You can use a variety of carrier oils, and the oil you choose will depend upon the properties that you want your bath oil to have . Here's a great recipe for a basic bath oil . 1.5 oz. olive oil 3 oz. almond oil 1 oz. sesame oil 1 oz. canola oil oz. wheat germ oil Use about 15-30 drops of essential oil per ounce of carrier oil , so for this recipe, you would want to use about 105-210 drops. Put all of the oils in a container with a tight lid , shake them well, and store them in a cool, dry place. Use about one teaspoon of bath oil in bath water.
Bath Jelly
Bath jelly is another fun bath-time diversion that gives you all the benefits of a bubble bath , with the added fun of wiggly gelatin! It's great for adults , but kids especially enjoy it. It's easy and fun to make, and even more fun to use. To make a basic batch of bath jelly, you'll need: 1 packet (15g) of unflavored gelatin (you can find this at the grocery store) 1 teaspoon of salt cup liquid Castile soap cup water Coloring and essential/fragrance oils Empty the packet of gelatin into a large bowl . Boil the water, and add it to the gelatin while stirring. Make sure the gelatin dissolves completely and there is no grainy residue floating in the water. Pour the liquid soap, essential oils and colorants into the gelatin . Stir the mixture well, but do so gently, so that the soap doesn't foam. Pour the mixture into an airtight storage container and store it in the refrigerator until it sets. Use a small amount (a teaspoonful, or a little scooped out with your fingers) for each bath; as usual, put it right under the running water to get the maximum amount of foam . This recipe makes a scoopable gelatin, but if you want it to be a bit thicker (for instance, so that you can slice it), just add more gelatin, one teaspoon at a time. Unfortunately, you won't know the consistency of the mixture until it has set , so this involves a bit more trial-and-error than some other bath products . One common thing to do with bath jelly is to add a toy, or other small decorative item, to the gelatin before it sets, so that kids using the jelly will have an incentive to use it . It can work wonders for getting a hydrophobic child into the bathtub .
Bath Soaks
Bath soaks, also referred to as bath teas, are commonly mixtures of herbs, salts and minerals that provide a luxurious, relaxing experience in the tub. The ingredients are mixed together and contained in a sachet so that they don't float around in the bath water, and the therapeutic properties of the herbs and minerals are released into the bath water to provide relief for stress, aches and pains, and a variety of other conditions. Typically, the bags are reusable, and the herbal mixture is kept in a jar. After each use, the bag is emptied, and refilled before the next use. The bag can be hung from the faucet so that the hot water flows through it as the tub fills , or it can be steeped in a pot of hot water which is then poured into the bath water. Either way, the bag usually floats in the water during the bath. Here is a great starter recipe for an herbal milk bath soak , which you can customize with a variety of essential oils and dried herbs. 1 cups powdered milk cup Epsom salt 1/8 cup baking soda 2 tablespoons corn starch Combine all of the ingredients and pour them into a glass container. Use a sachet made of cheesecloth, organza or muslin, and use approximately to cup of the bath soak mixture for each bath.
Light, non-greasy, nourishing; blends well with all essential oils; popular as a massage oil; affordable, all-purpose carrier oil Aloe Vera Nourishing and healing; great Liquid for cuts, scrapes, and any other skin trauma; not an oil, but a liquid or gel pressed from the leaves of aloe vera plant; it is water based, not oil based, so an emulsifier must be used if you blend it with essential oils Apricot Kernel Soothing, light, smooth; similar Oil to sweet almond oil in consistency and properties Avocado Oil Light and soothing; rich in nutrients; great for nourishing dry, itchy, aging or damaged skin; helps to shield skin from sun damage; usually used with other oils because of its nutty
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Borage Oil
Castor Oil
Cocoa butter
Coconut Oil
Grapeseed Oil
fragrance and thick, almost waxy feel High content of fatty acids; great for treating eczema and other skin conditions; expensive, so usually used in conjunction with other oils Nourishes and moisturizes dry or damaged hair and skin; will help to minimize wrinkles and other signs of aging; helps nails grow; rich in antioxidants, essential and non-essential fatty acids Emollient, skin softener; helps heal skin trauma such as cuts and scrapes Solid at room temperature, but liquefies in hot water; smells a little like chocolate; often used as a powerful, nutrient-rich moisturizer for dry, chafed or calloused skin Solid at room temperature, but liquefies in hot water; odorless; soothing and moisturizing Has a balanced blend of fatty acids, rich in vitamins; can help with eczema, psoriasis, signs of aging and scarring High essential fatty acid content; can help with eczema and many other skin conditions Solid at room temperature, but liquefies in hot water; smells like coconut; non-greasy, softens skin Oil which has been processed and distilled; is avoided by some who choose to utilize only unadulterated oils, but affordable and has an indefinite shelf life Light, odorless, easily absorbed; slightly astringent, tightens and tones sagging
Thin to Medium
Medium
Thin
All
All, Dry
All
All
Thin
All
Thin
Hazelnut Oil
skin; doesn't aggravate acne; contains a lot of linoleic acid, an essential fatty acid Light, toning, non-greasy
Hempseed Oil Rich, healing and moisturizing oil Jojoba Oil Actually a liquid wax; natural anti-inflammatory; great for moisturizing hair and skin; has properties similar to skin's natural sebum; good for oily or acne-prone skin; soothing, nongreasy, non-allergenic, noncomedogenic Kukui Nut Oil Penetrates the skin well; used in treating a variety of skin conditions; high in nutrients and fatty acids Macadamia Contains oleic acid; natural Nut Oil anti-inflammatory; sometimes leaves greasy feeling on skin Meadowfoam Rich in vitamin E and Oil antioxidants; good for treating signs of aging; nice all-purpose carrier oil Olive Oil May overpower other oils in a blend; leaves greasy feeling on skin; use only cold-pressed extra virgin oil Peanut Oil Should be avoided by anyone with an allergy to peanuts, for obvious reasons; leaves a heavy film on skin; good for those suffering from rheumatoid arthritis Pecan Oil Should be used in small amounts, mixed with another oil, or may be overpowering Pomegranate Penetrates skin well; emollient; Seed Oil rich in antioxidants; antiinflammatory; good for dry or aging skin Rose Hip Oil Rich in essential fatty acids; excellent in treating many skin conditions; usually used in
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Thick
Medium
All, Aging
Thick
All
Thick
All
Medium
All
Medium
Thin
small quantities, mixed with other oils, because of its price; good for treatment of scars, wrinkles and burns Seabuckthorn Usually used in very low Berry Oil dilutions (-1%); highly nutritive; often used to treat scarring and signs of aging, especially on the face Sesame Seed Sometimes overpowering, Oil should be blended with other oils; rich, skin-softening Sunflower Oil Affordable, all-purpose carrier oil; can be purchased in varieties with higher oleic acid content; light, smooth, nongreasy; has higher concentration of vitamin E than any other carrier oil; softening, moisturizing Tamanu Oil Light, non-greasy, smooth, easily absorbed; highly nutritive; used for treating scars, stretch marks, acne, and other skin conditions Vegetable Humectant; helps skin to Glycerin absorb moisture; water-based, so emulsifiers should be used if blending with other carrier or essential oils Watermelon Light, easily absorbed; good Seed Oil choice for oily skin; good allpurpose carrier oil
Medium
Medium/Thick
All
Thin
All
Thin
Thick
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Linoleic
Myristic Oleic
Palmitic
Ricinoleic
Stearic
Essential oils are divided, by scent, into three categories: top note, middle note, and base note. The top note is usually the first one that you'll notice , at first whiff, and it tends to disperse rather quickly. The middle note provides most of the scent's character; the base note is the strongest, but usually the last to be noticed, and sticks around after the other two have faded. A general guideline is to use 3 parts top note , 2 parts middle note, and 1 part base note in each batch of bubble bath. The exact amount of oil used will vary based on the size of your batch, as well as your individual preferences; however, a good guideline to follow is 15-20 ml of the top note oil, 5-10 ml of the middle note, and 2.5-5 ml of the base note, per 700 ml batch of bubble bath. You can find a variety of charts that will tell you whether a scent is a top , middle or base note, and they will usually tell you how much to use, and sometimes, which scents will work best together. Your personal taste may differ from what is listed in the charts , however, and you shouldn't feel like you have to follow them to the letter. The best way to test a scent that you think youd like is to gather the essential oils , and test them in a jar, or other container. Dip one end of a clean cotton swab in each jar of oil (be sure to use a different swab for each oil), and put the swabs into a glass jar together. Cover the jar, and check it at regular intervals after a few minutes , a few hours, and 24 hours. Be sure to take notes on what you notice which scent dissipated first , whether one scent overpowered another, et cetera. This test will help you decide whether the scents work well together, but also how much of each scent you should use for a consistent fragrance . If you discover a scent combination you like, make sure you write it down, and include your notes and measurements. The swab test will give you an idea of whether you like the scents , and how they blend together. However, to really get a feel for how the scents will interact when the proper amounts of all three are included, you would have to blend them in the correct proportions . Mix the three oils in the correct ratio, but use very small amounts; for example, your recipe calls for 1 tablespoon of oil A, 1 tablespoons of oil B, and 3 tablespoons of oil C. Find the lowest common denominator, and use drops instead of tablespoons or ounces . For this test, you would use 2 drops of oil A, 3 drops of oil B, and 6 drops of oil C. (As with the swab test, be sure to use a different pipette for each oil .) Using very small amounts
will waste as little as possible, in case you decide that you dont like the proportional blend . The largest amount of any oil you should be using during the test phase is 25 drops . This will minimize the amount of oil you waste if you don't like the scent combination . Blend the small amounts of oil together in a glass jar, and check it at the same intervals as the swab test. After 24 hours, the oil blend should smell about the same as it will in your bubble bath. If you are testing more than one scent combination , it may help to have some coffee grounds handy sniffing the coffee grounds will cleanse your scent receptors in between each test, so you will get a more accurate idea of each scent . All three notes should be used to create a well -rounded batch of bubble bath, but you generally won't want to use more than three scents; using too many will result in a fragrance that is overwhelming, and you won't be able to appreciate each scent as much . It can also be difficult to find more than three fragrances that work well mixed together. If you find that the scent is dispersing too quickly, adding a fixative, such as orris root, will help your bubble bath retain the scent of the oils; use about teaspoon of fixative per 700ml batch of product. Make sure that you keep notes on what you're doing , so that you can remember what you did later. If you find the perfect blend, you'll want to be able to recreate it, and it's easy to lose track of what you've done when you get really into the mixing process . Also note the manufacturer of each oil you use, and what type of scent it is absolute, distillation, solvent extraction, et cetera so that you will be able to come as close as possible to the original scent. The type of oil, the manufacturer, and even the batch can make a significant difference in the quality of the scent.
Table 2 Essential Oil Allspice Properties Spicy, clove-like scent; good for arthritis, stiffness, rheumatism, nausea, depression, cramps. Sweet, similar to anise; used to treat colds, bronchitis, chest congestion, insect repellant, rheumatism Sweet, herbaceous; relaxing, soothing, also good for insomnia, wounds, and arthritis Spicy and earthy; good for scabies, stress, lice Perfumery Note Middle Warnings Shouldn't come into contact with mucous membranes; use caution if you have liver problems or hemophilia Avoid use when pregnant, or if you have liver problems
Basil
Top
Chamomile
Middle
Cinnamon
Middle
Citronella
Top
Can irritate sensitive skin or mucous membranes; use only the oil from the leaves, as that from the bark is too strong Avoid use during pregnancy; can be irritating to sensitive skin No known counterindications (should not be confused with common or dalmatian sage, which have high thujone content and are irritants) Can irritate skin and mucous membranes; avoid
Clary Sage
Herbaceous and Middle earthy; used to treat asthma, exhaustion, coughing, stress, sore throat
Clove bud
Middle
Coffee
Base
Eucalyptus
Frankincense
Geranium
Jasmine
Juniper Berry
Lavender
Fresh, woody, earthy; used to treat arthritis, cold sores, fever, sinusitis, poor circulation, coughing Woody, earthy; good for anxiety, asthma, coughs, scars, stretch marks Floral, and a bit fruity; used to treat lice, acne, oily skin, cellulite, dull skin Heady and floral; good for dry skin, depression, exhaustion, sensitive skin Woody and earthy; used to treat cold and flu, acne, cellulite, obesity, removal of toxins, rheumatism, gout Floral and sweet; good for acne, chicken pox, allergies, cuts, anxiety, sprains, depression, athlete's foot,
Top
with alcoholism, liver problems, hemophilia, prostate cancer, kidney problems and anticoagulant medications Little information available. Test before use, and use with caution. Toxic when taken orally; no counterindications for use on skin
Base
No known counterindications
Middle
Avoid during pregnancy; may irritate very sensitive skin No known counterindications
Middle
Middle
Top/Middle
No known counterindications
Lemon balm
Lemongrass
Mandarin
Marjoram
Myrrh
stretch marks, dermatitis, stress, scars, insect bites, sores, itching, rheumatism, oily skin, migraines, scabies Citrusy; used to treat anxiety, depression, migraines, hypertension, menstrual cramps, asthma, bronchitis, as an insect repellant, eczema Citrusy and grassy; good for treating acne, oily skin, excessive perspiration, athlete's foot, stress, as an insect repellant, muscle aches, scabies Sweet and citrusy; used to treat stress, acne, oily skin, spots, dull skin, scars, wrinkles Woody and camphorous; good for hypertension, aching muscles, rheumatism, bronchitis, muscle cramps, sprains, stress Woody and earthy; used to treat athlete's foot, ringworm, chapped skin, bronchitis, itching
Top/Middle
Top
Avoid in glaucoma, prostatic hyperplasia, very sensitive or damaged skin. Should not be used by children
Top
No known counterindications
Middle
Base
Myrtle
Neroli
Nutmeg
Oregano Patchouli
Peppermint
Camphorous and floral; good for coughs, sore throat, asthma Sweet, floral, fruity; used to treat depression, stretch marks, frigidity, scars, insomnia, shock, wrinkles Sweet and spicy; good for arthritis, fatigue, poor circulation, muscle aches, rheumatism Sharp and herbaceous; good for coughs Rich, dark and earthy; used to treat acne, chapped skin, fatigue, eczema, athlete's foot, dermatitis, oily skin, stress, and as an insect repellant Minty and fragrant; good for scabies, asthma, exhaustion, headache, vertigo, sinusitis Floral and sweet; used to treat eczema, depression, stress, frigidity, wrinkles Fresh and herbaceous; good for dandruff, aching muscles, dull skin, exhaustion, arthritis, muscle cramps, poor
Top/Middle
Middle
Middle
Middle Base
Top
Rose
Middle
Can be irritating to skin and mucous membranes; possible neurotoxin; avoid in cardiac fibrillation, fever or epilepsy No known counterindications
Rosemary
Middle
Rosewood
Sandalwood
Spearmint
Spikenard
Tea tree
Vanilla Absolute
circulation, neuralgia, rheumatism Woody, fruity and floral; used to treat colds and flu, acne, dry skin, stretch marks, stress, dull skin, fever, oily skin, frigidity, scars, sensitive skin Rich, woody and sweet; good for chapped skin, bronchitis, dry skin, laryngitis, scars, oily skin, stretch marks, depression, sensitive skin Minty, not as overpowering as peppermint; used for treating scabies, nausea, vertigo, headache, asthma, exhaustion Earthy, musty; good for rashes and wrinkles Medicinal, woody, earthy; used to treat candida, acne, chicken pox, athlete's foot, cuts, insect bites, flu, corns, ringworm, oily skin, itchy skin, migraines, sinusitis, urethritis, warts, sores, spots Warm and sweet; good for enhancing and sweetening other scents
Middle
No known counterindications
Base
No known counterindications
Top
Base
Middle
Base
No known counterindications
Green and floral; used to treat headaches, rheumatism, poor circulation, stress, bronchitis, sore throat
Middle
No known counterindications
For bath salts, you can add the colorant directly to the salts, or you can add it to the additives (dendritic salt or Natrasorb), if you are using them, before mixing them with the salts. If the natural colorants dont work for you, or are too expensive or unpredictable, there are a variety of synthetic colorants that can be used. Pigments, micas, and FD&C colorants are some of these. Pigments are colorants that were originally mined, but now, due to FDA regulations, are manufactured in laboratories. Many natural oxides contain toxic materials, so the FDA chose to approve only synthetic colorants for use in bubble baths and cosmetics . The synthetically made pigments have the same molecular structure as the natural ones, but they have a low enough concentration of toxic metals that they are considered safe by the FDA. Pigments tend to be pretty stable, and the color that they will impart to your bubble bath is pretty predictable. The liquids are extremely easy to use, but the powders must be mixed with liquid before they are added to the bubble bath or they may clump . The easiest way to liquefy the colorant powder is to put a tiny bit of rubbing alcohol into a bowl teaspoon is probably enough and then add some powder. Mix until all of the powder has dissolved in the alcohol. Mix the solution into the bubble bath, a little at a time, until you reach the desired hue. Another method of mixing the powdered colorant is to combine it with liquid glycerin , in a ratio of 2 parts glycerin to 1 part colorant powder. (The advantage of the liquid colorants is that this process is unnecessary; the colorant can be added , one drop at a time, until the bubble bath has achieved the desired hue .) FD&C colorants are also manufactured in a laboratory. By way of comparison , they are easier to use than many pigments, and provide a much wider range of colors.
There is some debate over the safety of FD&C colorants , because in the past, the FDA has recalled some of these colorants due to safety concerns . However, this fear is, most likely, unfounded. FD&C colorants are in almost all of the processed foods we eat, so the miniscule amount that is in bubble bath is not really cause for concern. FD&C colorants are inexpensive, and very easy to use . Micas are a combination of natural and synthetic materials . The micas themselves are natural material; after they are mined, they are then coated with FD&C colorants, or pigments, to provide them with color. Shimmery micas are normally used to give color to makeup, but can be used for bubble bath and bubble bath as well . Because of their metallic sheen, micas can only display their color by reflecting light; therefore, they work best in translucent bubble bath . They blend very smoothly, but a larger amount is required than if you were using other colorants . Because some of them are coated with FD&C colorants, they should be tested before use . When the colorant you used transfers unintentionally, and alters the look of the intended design in a solid product , this is referred to as bleeding, or color migration. This usually occurs in melt-and-pour bubble baths , because water is mixed with the bubble bath base to melt it, and many colorants are water-soluble. Therefore, if you want to make a solid bubble bar or other product that , instead of being a solid color, has a pattern or design, your best bet is to use colorants that are oilsoluble; another option is to use colorants that arent soluble , and color the bubble bath via dispersion (meaning that the particles are suspended throughout the bubble bath , like glitter, instead of being dissolved in it). Oxides and most micas will color solid bubble bath without bleeding. Table 3 Colorant Alfalfa Alkanet Annatto Seed Beet Root Calendula Petals Carrots Chamomile Chlorophyll Cinnamon Cloves Cochineal Powder Cocoa Powder
Resultant Color Medium green Deep purple to blue Yellow-orange Pink to red Yellow Yellow-orange Yellow-beige Green Tan to brown Brown Deep red Brown
Coffee Comfrey Root Cucumber Curry Powder Elderberries Henna Indigo Root Jojoba Beads Kaolin Clay Kelp Madder Root Milk Moroccan Red Clay Paprika Poppy Seeds Pumice Pumpkin Rattanjot Rose Hip Seeds Rose Pink Clay Safflower Petals Saffron Sage Spinach Spirulina Titanium Dioxide Turmeric
Brown to black Light, milky brown Bright green Yellow Light brown Olive green to brown Deep blue Many colors White Green Red to purple Tan to brown Brick red Peach to salmon Blue-grey Grey Deep orange Deep red to purple Tan to brown Brick red Yellow to deep orange Yellow Green Light green Blue-green Bright white Gold to amber
4 ounces liquid glycerin Melt the Castile bubble bath, if necessary, or just use an equivalent quantity of liquid Castile bubble bath. Mix the Castile bubble bath with the water and glycerin , then add the essential oils. Pour into bottles or other storage containers .
Melt the Castile bubble bath, if necessary, or just use an equivalent quantity of liquid Castile bubble bath. Mix the Castile bubble bath with the water and glycerin, then add the essential oils. Pour into bottles or other storage containers .
teaspoon powdered herbs (optional) 1/8 teaspoon colorant (preferably pearlescent mica) 15 drops essential oil blend of your choice - carrier oil Spray bottle of water Combine dry ingredients in a large mixing bowl . (You may want to use a sifter to prevent clumping.) Mix thoroughly. Add essential oil one drop at a time while mixing it is normal for the mixture to fizz a little as you add the oil . Add the carrier oil very slowly, still continuously mixing. Add the water, one spray at a time, until the mixture has achieved the proper consistency to form the bath bombs. Pack the mixture into the molds, and let them sit for a few minutes. Pop them out onto wax paper, mist them with witch hazel to form a hard shell, and let them dry overnight.
Combine the baking soda, citric acid, goat's milk and corn starch, sifting them into one another until they are well-blended and smooth . Add the Epsom salt (or sea salt, if you prefer) to the dry mixture after the sifting; the salt will add to the fizzing action, decrease the drying time of your bath bombs, and make their hard outer shell shiny. Measure all of the wet ingredients and the borax, and combine them . Slowly add the wet mixture to the dry mixture, stirring constantly so that it won't start to fizz. At this point, the mixture should have a doughy texture, and hold its shape when you compress it; if it's still too dry, spray it with some water, mix it more, and try again. Fill your molds with the mixture, and let them set for approximately one hour; remove them from the molds, and let them dry for about a week, at which point they can be packaged or used.
14 drops patchouli essential oil 6 drops sandalwood essential oil 4 drops cedar essential oil Colorant (if desired) Mix the salt and baking powder in a large bowl . Mix all of the liquids in a separate bowl , and then add them to the salts slowly, stirring constantly. Store the salts in decorative glass jars with tight lids.
Many amateurs begin making bubble bath simply because it is a fun and rewarding hobby. Others, however, hope to turn their hobby into a source of income. For stay-at-home moms, those who are unemployed or cannot work , or even for those who want a part-time income , bubble bathmaking can be a great idea. With a few hours work , you can turn a minimal investment in equipment and ingredients into a product that is potentially worth a great deal of money. It is possible to turn a profit selling bubble bath, but it is not as simple as making the bubble bath and exchanging it for money. There are lots of factors to take into account, if you want your bubble bath to stand out against the competition, and actually turn a profit . One of the benefits of starting a bubble bath -making business is that, unlike a lot of other entrepreneurial ventures, the startup costs are quite low. The basic ingredients lye, water, and fats are cheap, and so is most of the equipment . In fact, most of the equipment is stuff that you probably already have in your home . So, you can make a good (if plain) bar of bubble bath for a very low price . The expensive part is the additives essential oils, herbs, et cetera. If you want to turn a profit on your bubble bath , you are going to have to shop carefully, and try to obtain the highest-quality ingredients for the lowest possible price . Otherwise, the price of your bubble bath will be too high, and people will be unlikely to buy it . One of the easiest and most cost-effective ways to sell your bubble bath is at craft fairs, flea markets, farmers markets, or other festivals. Tables at these types of events are generally fairly cheap, and people go there expecting to spend money. Therefore, if your bubble bath isnt ludicrously over-priced , odds are pretty good that someone will consider it a low-cost luxury; people like things that are hand-made , it is a nice alternative to mass-produced bubble baths, and they make very nice, but cost-effective, gifts. If you dont have the time to go to craft fairs to sell your product , and cant find anyone to go in your stead, there are other options to sell your bubble bath . You can try selling your bubble bath online, through stores like eBay or Amazon . These retailers will take a cut of your profits, though, and you are competing with all of the other people who are trying to do
the same thing you are, which will drive down your prices . If you want to sell your bubble bath without anyone taking a percentage of the sale price, you can try creating your own web store . The disadvantage of doing it this way is that you will not generate a fraction of the traffic that huge websites like eBay get every day. Also, if you want to use search engines like Bing or Google to bring traffic to your site , you will need to place bids with them , in order to have your business appear as a featured result, or near the top of the list. You can sell it wholesale to retailers , but you will probably get less profit , since you will be selling it to them for a much lower price than what they will charge the public . Another option is consignment shops, which operate on a similar, but slightly different, principle; when selling your bubble bath to a retailer, they pay you the wholesale price upfront , then attempt to sell your product. If the product doesnt sell , they lose the money, not you but, they probably wont buy from you again. Consignment shops, on the other hand, pay you as your product sells; they take a percentage of the sale price , but it is not as high as the chunk that larger retailers will take. The disadvantage of selling in a consignment shop is that , if the bubble bath doesnt sell, you and the shop lose money. Also, there is typically a limited amount of time that a consignment shop will keep your merchandise on its shelves .
stickers, you can purchase sheets of sticker paper that are pre-cut (intended for address labels or gift tags), or solid pages that you can cut to any size and shape youd like . If your bubble baths are scented , youll want to choose a packaging that allows the buyer to smell it, to determine if they like the scent, and if it is strong enough. A good way to do this is to wrap the bubble bath in a cloth mesh bag , which protects the bubble bath from coming into contact with other bars, while allowing the consumer to smell and see it. The packaging can be an actual cloth bag , though that will be expensive; your best bet is to buy a large quantity of mesh cloth , and to cut it into squares or circles yourself . Then you can tie the top with a ribbon, string, or any decorative material you like. A small paper tag can be tied to the top of the bag , or placed inside; youll most likely want to include the tag on the outside of the bag , so that buyers have any information necessary to convince them to purchase from you for the first time , and so that they know what the bubble bath contains, and what it will do for their skin. If the bubble bath is molded into bars (and especially if you want to show off the color of the bubble bath), you can wrap a square of paper or cardboard around the bubble bath , leaving a bit of bubble bath exposed on either end; this will allow buyers to see the bubble baths color and texture.
If the bubble baths are created in a candy mold , and you want to show off the shape or detail on the surface, you could package the bubble baths in a mesh bag . You might also want to wrap them in clear cellophane , and seal them with a sticker on the bottom. If your bubble bath is in plain bars, there are a variety of ways to make it look more exciting. You can wrap your bubble baths in colored gift wrap, or patterned printing paper; be sure to wrap it in wax paper first, though, to avoid discoloration of the bubble bath or paper. If you want to make bubble baths as gifts , or sell them as custom orders, then your packaging, and even the bubble bath itself, can be even more elaborate. You can create monogrammed bubble baths, by using a mold that will create a raised letter on the surface of the bubble bath; to make this bubble bath even more striking, you can place the molded bar in another mold, with the raised letter resting on the bottom. Pour bubble bath of another color around the already molded and monogrammed bar; the second bubble bath will fill in the gaps, and coat the first bar. So, for example, you could have a bar of deep purple bubble bath, with a white A on the surface, or vice versa. You can also create bubble baths that have a custom tag , for weddings, anniversaries, christenings, or any other special event; for these, you may want to put names, birthdays, dates, or any other information that will help people remember their special day. Scented bubble baths in cloth bags are often a good choice for these types of mementos, since the bubble bath will, most likely, not be used, except as a sachet or decoration. Get creative with the packaging of your bath products; almost any sort of packaging will do, as long as it's airtight. You can make the presentation of your handmade goods as plain or as elaborate as you want; many people choose to put a lot of effort into their packaging, to reflect the great deal of effort they put into their soaps, while others just use plain plastic containers. It's completely up to you.
Get Creative!
There is no limit to what you can do with the bubble bath you make . The products you create can be as elaborate as you want them to be . The information provided in this book is just a starting point; be sure to conduct your own research, and find out some other nifty and fun things you can do with your bubble bath creativity. The list of essential oils is by no means an exhaustive one , and you can make an almost infinite number of scent combinations from all the oils available . The key to finding your favorite products and recipes is to experiment as much as possible. Try your own products before giving them to friends and family, and see which ones turn out best. If there's a product you really want to try to make , go for it. Most of the ingredients are relatively inexpensive, so if you mess up a batch of product, you didn't waste much money, and at any rate, it will be a learning experience. Also, don't get frustrated if you don't succeed the first time you try to make a given product. It takes lots of practice to master some recipes, and the key is to be able to enjoy yourself while you work. The most important thing to remember is to thoroughly research your ingredients to make sure that there are no counter-indications for the ingredients you choose to use . Always make sure that there is an exhaustive list of ingredients on each package , so that anyone using your product knows if they are sensitive to anything in it .
Batch Codes
After you complete a batch of bubble bath , it is a good idea to include a batch code with the bubble baths packaging . The batch code is a numeric (or alphanumeric) code that enables the bubble bath-maker to identify which batch of bubble bath each bar originated from. This is important because if you find a bar that is flawed , or if you receive a complaint about your bubble bath, you will be able to quickly identify all of the bars in that batch , so that you can dispose of all of them. The batch code should also be linked to a record that indicates: The name of the manufacturing company The name of the bubble bath-maker What ingredients were used The amount of each ingredient Variations, if any, from your usual bubble bath-making procedure Manufacturers and lot numbers of the ingredients used The bubble baths expiration date The date the bubble bath was made Curing time What method was used to make the bubble bath (i.e., cold-process method) The temperature at which the bubble bath was mixed Any information that might be necessary in the case of a customer question or complain , or to help you identify the reason for a problem in a given batch .
Liability
Many entrepreneurs research the creation and marketing of their product , but some forget one important detail: liability. In todays litigious society, there is no way to safeguard yourself against being sued . However, there are ways that you can protect your personal assets, in case of a lawsuit. Many business owners believe that their homeowners insurance will cover them in case of a lawsuit. This is not usually the case . Some policies will cover a small amount of business property (up to $2,500, usually), but even these wont cover lawsuits . If someone sues you for any reason, you are personally liable for not only damages awarded in the suit, but also any lawyers fees and court fees incurred by both parties . Even if you win the suit, you will still be responsible for your own lawyers fees .
A good business insurance policy will include liability coverage , so that you will not be personally responsible for any such costs that are incurred . However, make sure you understand any limitations on your policy for example, the cap on settlement payouts, or the number of settlements the policy will cover over a set period of time . Lawsuits are not the only liability to consider when starting your own business . What happens if the store you are selling your product in catches fire , and you lose thousands of dollars worth of merchandise? What if your home is robbed and all of your equipment is stolen? The average business insurance policy will include property insurance , which will not
only pay for your lost property and equipment , but will also cover your lost wages while you are unable to make your product. Some of these policies, however, only cover your property while it is on-premises; be sure to check your policy to see if it covers your property while at a craft show or retailer. If not, many companies have policy extensions that you can purchase to ensure coverage. Some policies cover 100% of the income you were generating prior to your loss, while others cover only a portion, so be sure to ask about your loss of income coverage . Aside from the advantages of having your property and equipment protected , your business insurance offers protection to any retailers that sell your product . In fact, many retailers and craft shows will request and in some cases , require proof of insurance before they allow you to sell your product there. Having business insurance signals to the retailer with whom you do business that you are serious about your business , and about protecting your assets , which may make them more likely to do business with you. The cost of a business insurance policy can vary greatly. Be sure to update your coverage based on the amount of property that you have; the cost of the policy is based on the amount of coverage you need. You wont want to pay extra for a policy that is too large for your needs, if you downsize; at the same time, your policy may not be large enough after a major purchase. Also, check the types of losses that are covered in the policy. Some policies will cover fire, but not theft; there are very few policies which cover earthquake or flood damage, and it usually costs extra. Ask about your deductible the amount that you are responsible to pay, before the insurance company covers anything. Policies with a higher deductible are usually cheaper, because the insurance company has a smaller chance of actually having to pay out; however, remember that you are taking a risk, because any money you save on the premium is money that you may have to pay to cover your own costs, if your loss falls below the deductible amount.
If your annual sales are low, or if you are selling only to people that you know, then you may choose not to have business insurance . It is entirely your decision whether investing in business insurance is right for you . However, it is important to note that , while your premium may seem like a waste of money if nothing happens, you will be very glad to have that policy if something does happen. It is generally a good idea to maintain a customer complaint file , to keep track of any complaints you happen to receive. Track the customer who complained , the complaint date, what the complaint was, and what you did to resolve the complaint. If you are utilizing a batch code system , you can look up the specific batch the customer is complaining about, and find out if you did anything out of the ordinary with that particular batch. The batch notes will help you determine what went wrong , and, if necessary, dispose of the defective batch to prevent any further issues . (Keeping track of your complaints , and what you do to resolve them, will also help in case of a lawsuit , or other action against your company.)
Glossary of Terms
Bath Bombs Effervescent, typically spherical solids which create fizz when dropped into bath water. Bath Jelly A semi-solid bubble bath made with gelatin. Bath Oil A combination of carrier and essential oils which can be added to bath water to moisturize skin and Bath Salts A mixture of any of a variety of salts with colorants and fragrance oils , which is frequently added to scent bath water and promote healthy skin . Bubble Bar A solid form of bubble bath. Bubble Bath A product, liquid or solid, that can be added to a bath to make foam. Castile Soap A broad term for any soap made with a mixture of oils that is mainly comprised of olive oil. Cold-Process A way of making soap that does not involve using outside heat sources to cook the soap. Deliquescent a property of lye which makes it prone to melting or otherwise reacting with air. Dendritic Salt A type of salt which has a very fine crystalline structure and holds color and fragrance well due to its increased surface area; frequently added to bath salts . Effervescent A substance (usually dry) which, when mixed with water, fizzes and erupts into tiny bubbles; in this case, the reaction is the result of a carbonate or bicarbonate mixing with citric acid and water. Foam Bath Another word for a bubble bath. Glycerin A substance that is a natural byproduct of saponification; highly moisturizing , and often included in bubble bath to soften and hydrate skin . Hot Process A way of making soap that involves using a crock pot or double -boiler to cook the soap in order to speed the saponification process . Hydrophilic Attracted to water. Hydrophobic Repelled by water. Hygroscopic A property of lye which makes it prone to absorbing moisture from the air, resulting in a clumpy mixture. Lye A substance that, when mixed with water and oil, saponifies and creates soap.
Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) A sheet which accompanies every chemical, and which lists all important information pertaining to that chemical , including safety, handling and storage information. Natrasorb A hydrophilic tapioca starch which absorbs oils and allows fragrance oils to be mixed with bath salts without melting the crystals or making the mixture clumpy. Potassium Hydroxide A variety of lye; usually used for making liquid soap . Saponification The process during which lye , water and oil react to make soap. Sodium Hydroxide A variety of lye; usually used for making bar soap . Surfactant A compound that binds to dirt and oil and helps to rinse it away.