Hawaii for the Intrepid and Financially Savvy Traveler: How to Maximize Memories without Breaking the Bank

or Winding up in the Hospital By: Nicholas Ledner It was 4:30 in the morning, close to LAX and I was waking up in the La Quinta Inn. True I was supposed to have already arrived in Maui from NYC, but I had earlier verbally accosted (in the kindest, most endearing and flattering way possible) the Delta flight attendants during a stopover in Minneapolis to grant me the dignified option of being bumped from what was apparent to everyone huddled near gate 60 something, an incredibly packed flight. $400.00 in vouchers, 4 drink coupons, and a sleep hangover later, I arrived in sunny Maui, immediately taken back by how picturesque this airport could be. I might have landed into actual paradise, I thought, which so many of us from around the world have been trained to envision it as. Working in any major city, full time, you romanticize every ounce of that fantasy vacation you know is destined to be yours soon enough, that is your right to soon claim. You think critically and carefully each day, just a little bit, in figuring out where to best maximize those moments of time, as we all know an incorrect decision might mean an unhappy worker, colleague, etc. upon return. Last years vacation took me to a place I envisioned as serene, tranquil, & quiet; and on that decision I was quite wrong- Japan. A beautiful place don't get me wrong, but not harboring the calming effect I so hoped & desired often in those office space moments. So, I racked my brain for the spot which the world over might agree was the place to take deep, calming breathes and worry merely for what course of relaxation would be most appropriate for the day at hand. Hawaii was the only place, for some strange reason, that came to mind for the time frame I was looking to travel for, 3 weeks. Maybe on this trip, subconsciously, I didn't want to think. I knew my Delta miles would get me their- approximately 60k from NYC for a tropical paradise didn't seem that bad when you then compare it to the Tahitis and Thailands of the world. Obviously there would be no language barrier, and just as important, I had friends who were living their and singing its praises (at least in Maui). The decision almost came too easily, and that was the only reason I felt I could be somewhat nervous. Normally I would seek out the less traveled path, now I was opting for the seemingly easy option with a flight filled with newlyweds and those celebrating their anniversaries. Was this the right choice for an intrepid traveler who on his own, was looking to explore uncharted territories or at the very least, laid back locales with

lush scenery & the only sound being fronds swayed by the gentle winds? And on a vacation-sojourn away from the demanding actions of the 9 to 5 grind, if that's your working definition of what a vacation is- what is best for the future mental state of that person? If there were doctors or psychologists that prescribed vacations or travel destinations for the working class based upon past life choices and current mentalities, where would they choose and how often would they prescribe Hawaii? The one main uncertainty for me, really, was how best to keep the trip under a certain amount while achieving relatively everything the island was known to provide, in the most natural sense. In any case, I had reached my destination and walking through the terminal, there was no better feeling than sauntering towards baggage claim within the open air gateway surrounded by actual flowers with the sun creeping down on you, wanting to cradling you, with approximate temperatures in the mid to high 70s. Perhaps the correct word for this might be, playing it safe. How to make a trip of this caliber happen without too many hitches to worry much? Well looking back now, that notion is impossible, there will be hitches. The hitches, in fact, are some of the most memorable aspects of any trip and many times are the moments and aspects of your decisions you learn the most from, for better or worsemostly worse (at the time). Especially coming from the east coast, Hawaii is not an easy journey to make. It can be with the right specifications to your ticket, but when you're trying to be strategic and using miles to jump 6 time zones to the west, you better give yourself at least a week to truly enjoy and settle in; less jet lag ruin what you previously thought could be an all-out bacchanal dream. I happened to spend approximately 1 week each on three main islands: Maui, Big Island, and Kauai, but I was blessed. I happen to say that many of the people I did meet throughout the trip were west coasters and to me, that makes perfect sense. The more rational in us who do live on the east coast would venture to first look into the Caribbean before booking flights to the middle of the Pacific. There are of course exceptions and many choose Hawaii because of: its Hollywood appeal, the outdoor & surf scene, or simply some people don't want to think on vacations and speaking English with package tours is a nice afterthought to rock you better to sleep at night prior to the supposed vacation of a lifetime. Like mentioned before, I had a good friend who lived on Maui. This friend is the definitive type of person you'd think of when picturing the kind of 'mainlander' who would

leave all of the conveniences of a LA lifestyle (already a mellow culture in comparison to the east coast mentality, I tend to believe) and head out to the north shore of Maui. Not to say there are no conveniences in Hawaii because that's incredibly incorrect- there is everything at your fingertips there as well, aside from smart public transport but we can get into that later (I myself spent my 2nd day at the Target purchasing a chord to connect my iPhone to the car's speaker system- best $6.00 I've ever spent). This particular individual was most definitely the type B individual, the kind of guy who regrettably you just couldn't always rely on to come over and help you paint your living room walls on a Saturday morning, but the kind of guy you could most definitely rely on to attend your birthday party from the 10pm to 3am range- never sure at which interval they'd arrive (and do we really need more of these type A friends anyway is another conversation). And as could happen with this type of friend, I received a call a day before leaving where he said 2 things: he received a job on the opposite side of the island so he wouldn't be staying in his bungalow (I also never knew he stayed in a bungalow until that moment) and if I could change my ticket around and come the week after. Many people might get nervous when receiving a call like this less than 24 hours before your flight would land in a destination you've been dreaming would be perfect for the past 3 months (therein lies the tragedy also of those that seldom book trips and rely on once or twice a year getaways as their fuel for the year, so to speak- they can be disappointed by curveballs that friend B throws at them). He then explained also that the person who owned and commanded (I immediately pictured some Jim Jones type character) the land he stayed on, the owner -a somewhat famous artist and local personality- wasn't sure if I should even stay there as he only wanted guests who were ready to work for him on his property (doing who knows what). I quickly had flash backs of me in my grandmother's beach house pulling weeds and being scrutinized for missing one as the sun blazed at 95 (for some reason I dont remember wearing any sunscreen as my back burned) and the beach, right across the street, continued to shout out my name with its siren song in the form of waves. But first I had to appease my grandmother (who always seemingly appeared over my back) by filling a few trash cans with weeds, and collecting my 5, 10, or 20 dollars (depending on her mood) for my morning efforts. I also never seemed to perform a good enough job for her compared to say the pro weed collectors who worked faster, more efficiently, and had 20 additional years on me, etc. But as a 7 year old, this gig was untaxed and filled me with happiness when I dumped the money at the local sports cards shop to a guy who eagerly anticipated which insert I received as I opened my packs in front of him. Alas! I quickly shot back via text, "No, thats fine! I am ready to help him work and I can't

change my ticket." It was worked out on their end that I'd help and I quickly started to consider why I had rested my 'relaxation time' (clich even as that sounds) in the hands of another who clearly did not comprehend just how valuable this time was for a person in my situation working 40 + hours a week for the past 40 something weeks. Regardless the ball had been smacked into my court and I was determined to return it not as a lob but as a hard volley with top spin that made the other do a little more work themselves. It turns out in the end, after my initial somewhat tumultuous meeting with the head of the household, I was able to create a social media strategy paper for the property and spent an hour or so giving a training on social media to all who were on the premises- something I was used to doing for my job back in New York anyway. And although the artist was visibly disconcerted I didn't do more to help, I knew that he couldn't now kick me out, especially if I made myself scarce during the days! In total I stayed at the bungalow for 6 days and after the initial anxiety that the situation caused me, the overall experience was quite pleasurable. Each night there I'd get in bed around 8pm, falling right to sleep after a day spent in the sun, and waking to the sound of a rooster at 5am through my screened in wall of the bungalow. By 7am I was already at the local deli, Hanazawas, picking up my Hawaiian coffee and egg biscuit. Thisgoing to bed and waking early- was the precise change I had wanted for myself while in Hawaii, the exact opposite of my late to bed, night escapades that filled so many exhausted moments in New York. I did mention that my trip was going to be three weeks long with three separate destinations: Maui, Big Island, & Kauai (in that order). Even before the trip started, I had already purchased mostly all of my inter island flights which weren't incredibly expensive at around 80 dollars per. Maui to Hilo was $80.00; Hilo to Kauai was $120.00, and Kauai to Maui, $60.00. A tip on this experience would be to try your hardest not to stop over in Honolulu as it not only drags on your time but forces you to go through an additional bag check and just feel generally rushed, which is entirely the opposite reason you're attempting to explore Hawaii in the first place. Interestingly enough, all flights are relatively the same price whether you book a month in advance or one week, so no true rush to try and coordinate 3 islands too far in the future. The first financial eureka moment came to me however when I was in Maui a few days into my trip. I had rented a car immediately when arriving, with no agreement in place. I had never rented a car in the first place so really had no idea how the system worked. I (like so many other first time car renters, I'm sure) didn't realize that each option offered by the front desk worker wasn't particularly necessary, though as an experienced traveler I

could tell that something didn't feel right and that I was getting fleeced even if I wasn't. Money was being drained with each extra word they spoke as I tried to process the additional insurance options offered, after a 2 day long stretch of flights to arrive! Shame on me for not realizing that mostly all credit card companies cover your insurance if you use their card and also not to let them fill your own tanks less you overspend, etc. Lastly, the biggest eureka financial moment came to me one night in my Maui bungalow when looking to see just what these credit card points I had accumulated could buy me. I realized, "Wow, I can use points to book a car!?" So, 25k in points later, I had used my rainy day points and took care of all payment issues related to the car for the next two islands I'd travel to, saving me approximately 40 dollars a day the next two weeks and removing the stress and headache of worrying about each extra fill up needed for car trips decided upon to destinations that might not truly be worth it since they could very well eat a quarter tank! And at 5 dollars a gallon, that could have been a much bigger deal than anyone would want it to be. Final recommendation on this front: use points when you can to book cars, don't even opt for any additional insurance (because really, how often to do you damage anyone else's car aside from yours) and fill your own tank up. With these check marks in place, you'll be able to breathe a sigh of relief and cruise the Hawaiian streets with pride in your boring looking car that you'd never purchase yourself unless you were the most uninspired person in the entire US (or you just got a really great deal and couldn't refuse- these cars were all bland at basic point levels!). Lastly while we're on the topic of rental cars, a tricky situation can come up when deciding on just where to drive. As understood, Hawaii is developed, but some of the most pristine and intriguing parts of the islands are in fact, positioned around seemingly ancient roads are made of gravel. Rental car companies won't cover these roads in their contracts- unbenounced to me for at least half the trip. If you so happen to get stuck or pop a tire in these tucked away and hard to reach roads that truly can be a half day away from any towing service, then you're somewhat screwed, but at least you're in a beautiful place! My recommendation? It's better to not worry in the slightest about this and drive to your hearts content, because really, how hard would it be to find someone locally to tow you a few extra miles back onto the blacktop and then call your rental car company and make up a story. Specifically I can think of a multitude of situations where driving without fear of "What could happen" occurred: Driving around the Hana Highway (Maui) through the very tip of the south shore (around 15 miles of gravel road with unbelievable twists and turns and jaw dropping vistas) driving around the very far northwest of Maui

(again, worth it, incredible, best highway drives ever with tide pools at multiple points), and when attempting to make it to the top of Mauna Kea on the Big Island. Speaking of Mauna Kea, I planned for my Mauna Kea summit like many of my 20 something generation do, by purchasing the Hawaii Lonely Planet and reading it on the flight over. But some travelers go further! Some actually purchase books per island and read them weeks in advance. These detailed driven explorers then know that once you hit 8,000 feet at Mauna Kea, it turns into a gravel road and that is why these travel guides recommend you rent a 4 by 4 vehicle, but for those that don't read each detail before arrival, you take your 'normal' car and you're happy. And when you reach 8000 feet, you want to keep going, since if it was your mom's car you'd have no problem continuing to drive up, but when the park ranger with long hair at the guest services then tells you it would cost 10k to tow you down if your car get stuck (or almost worse, you die as your car careens off the side of this very precipitous looking mountain) you begin to think twice about reaching that apex and then get angry at everyone who has attempted to thwart your journey upward- because it's not your fault! Now, how to circumnavigate this problem of getting stuck at places you don't want to be your final destination and forking over additional thousands to a tow truck company who you can envision just waiting for moronic tourists to make this mistake? You're also quite keen on sharing a photo with your friends on Facebook to extend that feeling of joy which signifies immense jubilation when reaching that hard to reach spot, which many might have needed a 4 x 4 to reach. So what's the solution that doesn't involve renting the 4 x 4? Bringing it back to basics, may I present, hitchhiking. Yes it can be done & is altogether more charming in Hawaii, if I may say so myself! That ole lovely and friendly method of sticking your thumb out, giving a smile, and being open to share a story or two. Maybe you're in a honeymooners car, learning about just why they chose this island and this particular beach or mountain to plan an activity in, it's actually more interesting than you think it would be, and useful in some regards! When hitchhiking, here are some little tips and hints that I learned from my own experiences. (1) 1. Look presentable. If you know you might need to hitchhike that day, try and wear a clean shirt, maybe ever shower prior if that's an option. 2. Smile. Brush those teeth in the morning and put on that face that says to the world, "Obviously I wouldn't be doing this if it wasn't imperative and you, dear driver with your righteous car, should feel somewhat of a moral duty to pick me up since I'm just like you but in a bit of a circumstance I really can't control!"

3.

Be overly aggressive with body language and when possible, direct loud shots with a kind timbre when cars are coming close that you deem appropriate to jump into (which in my case, was always). Flagging down is appropriate, perhaps not by waving your arms uncontrollably, but do thrust both of your thumbs in a manner that shows haste and urgency. This can be done and learned with practice. 4. Positioning yourself is key! Ensure you're at the best spot or vantage point possible to be picked up by those fortunate enough to have the proper cars to make particular hills or roads that you just can't. Never be situated anywhere where those driving the car can tell the passenger that, "It just wasn't possible to stop." Give them clear and ample time to slow down with no concern for cars behind to run into them. And again, be secure in the notion that you're standing in the spot where the most traffic will come; giving you the best odds to secure that lift and build that relationship. 5. Smiling works well when making that initial eye contact from far away, trust me! I would say, out of the 3 rides I was able to hitch, my rate of success was around 75. Unfortunately I could not find any quantitative study to interpret my own results with.

Now perhaps an even bigger question would be, "Why go through the trouble of visiting these places at all , especially if out of the way?' Why not just visit the accessible stuff and be content with those experiences?" Well the truthful answer here is that Hawaii does seem to save some of the jaw dropping moments for those hoping to go above and beyond. These above and beyonders tend also to be good storytellers, which helps these stories become legends, and legends to become mystic feats. And to reach these spots of lore, it could mean: crossing valleys via foot on steep ledges, visiting beaches accessible only via miles of gravel roads that can turn muddy and seemingly precarious in minutes, and hiking mountaintops to take in the cool thin air with vantage points of clouds lying beneath you. So what are the best experiences? Which beaches blew my mind? Any particular food or drink that was too excellent to forget about? Maybe a lush jungle that captivated my mind and included a pool to strip down and dive in? Well, yes, Hawaii has a plethora of these spots and items, but fortunately or unfortunately, you've got to be in the know to find out, or at the very least do some basic research! As stated many paragraphs earlier, I was initially staying in the north shore of Maui at my friends bungalow and for the first few days, I was on edge as to what in the world I

was actually supposed to do for this property owner who decreed (unbenounced to me prior to arrival) that all 'guests' staying on his property must contribute something for the 'good of the land'. I panicked and thought to myself, would my entire time here be relegated to chores of yesteryear (grandma flashbacks) and few opportunities to relax on beaches? Surely not! So on my second full day in Hawaii, I drove roughly an hour or so across the island and got my first taste of the luxurious and well-manicured side of West Maui while driving toward Big Beach (2). Big Beach seemed incredible to me at the time, that beach out of films where you were the first to understand it's magical appeal, and just like that, the entire trip made sense. As I began a walk along it's shoreline, I noticed beautiful girls camped out who were already sunning in their bikinis, close to their tents- which were apparently airing out- and it all seemed normal, almost as if they obviously would have been there "Duh, Nic." One of these dirty blonde haired girls-body tanned to perfection from god knows how many days surfing and enjoying beach life- could have even called out for me, but the sound of the waves drained out her voice I'm fairly certain, "Nic please, join us!" This potential Norwegian (I was now assuming she was a Norwegian from some small town along their glacial coast) love story building up in my head was almost enough to make me throw all plans I had for the rest of the day to the wind and run back to her, seeing just how we could both make this day-this trip- an unforgettable one, alas, I had a social media training to give! Big Beach had also been voted, at some point, one of the best beaches by many beach pundits and for this, coupled with many others reason such as: the sun shining brightly down on everything around me, the emerald waters crashing directly in front of me, and another island peering far out in the backdrop, I stood awestruck, to mesmerized and afraid to run full speed into the water like I normally might with most beaches. Something was different, something foreign and maybe more powerful incorporated into this particular equation. As I had spent countless years partaking in the slow moving and laid back waters of the Gulf on the west coast of Florida, I could hardly believe the force in which this beach was getting pummeled by waves with such irreverent power. It was dizzying to even figure out just which point would be most appropriate for entry, a feeling that panged me to the core as basking in the waters of any well-known beach is half the fun of being there (not to mention it's when the real relaxing sets in)! I had little time then to explore the beach and its intricacies but promised myself I'd come back, giving it the time it deserved- accompanied by a good book, towel, and sunscreen. Unfortunately, due to the pace of the trip and speed at which I needed to explore additional landscapes, I didn't have this privilege. This concept of not being able to get into the beaches' water though baffled me at first, yet soon became somewhat of a

premonition as countless other beaches I visited throughout this trip had the same circumstances as well! Almost all of the beaches I explored along the Hana Highway were not possible, apparently, to bask in, however I'm fairly certain had I been with a cooler crowd - I was traveling alone so my only companions were my Lonely Planet (LP) and the sign posts I read close to the beaches warning of frequent deaths- I would have been more brave and easily could have been swayed into giving into the peer pressure. After all, I'd tell myself, I'm used to the Gulf of Mexico, surely all bodies of water are similar! I do think however that one of the amazing things regarding powerful waves and currents reigning down on pleasant and relaxing enough looking beaches is that you get to have an even deeper respect and awe for nature, in terms of the unforgivingness and almost cruelty it can dish out without a 2nd glance. Again, I visited a handful of beaches throughout my first few days and not one did I get to sprint into! In a million years this would have never stopped me if I was with friends, but for some reason, I used prudence I never thought I had in me, coupled with the derision that so many tourists also visiting the beach seemed to have. If all of Hawaii was like that, I would not have bothered to come, but luckily there are many beaches which are safe to swim in, and it's normally quite easy to indicate these whether from: lifeguards being present, folks already swimming in the water, or just stories and research you read prior to stepping foot on the sand. And once you find one of these beaches, boy are they glorious. I look back fondly on all of those hazy sunny, endless 'summer' moments where the routine of holding your book up in the air to block the warm sun followed by a body surfing session seemed like the most normal chain of events a human should be giving into (3). But, the question remains, how do you savor a pounding coastline without dealing with an onslaught of waves more powerful than anything you've ever seen? Tide pools! When driving through the coastal dirt back roads of any Hawaiian island, a popular indicator I noticed was when a group of cars was seemingly parked in the middle of nowhere, this was where the action was. It could be viewed, metaphorically, as a New Yorker who's looking for the hot night club in Chinatown, and after some time searching, comes across a few beautiful people smoking out front of a small doorway with dim lighting and the faint sound of music and light vibration of bass. These are the magical spots that only those in the know are privy to enjoy and therefore, are treated almost like a rite of passage upon any travelers first time dipping in. Such was the case when I was lucky enough to find a tide pool on the very tip of Mauis west side heading towards the east side of the island (4). It was marvelous! And I dare say I would never have

attempted such a feat had there not already been two renegades already swimming and enjoying themselves within the pools (with two babies in tow, mind you). Waves slamming against the rocks right beside you as you remained coolly relaxed in your still pool, ambivalent to the drama happening a few feet away. Hey, if anyone else was doing it and not dying at that very moment, why shouldn't I take part!? Plus of course I wanted the photo opp to share and impress my friends with. It was beautiful, diving into these pools, uncertain if the water was building up from below and if so, how? One needed not consult science at this particular time for something that seemed so right. Crystal clear with fish purposefully swimming throughout, this was where many who lived on cliff sides called their infinity pools and throughout my other island visits, tide pools were mentioned frequently by locals as their de facto relaxation spots on warm days. To many, these are some of the most treasured spots of respite on any island and locating them can be crucial to ones enjoyment or memories looking back on island sojourns. Later, once you spend further time on the islands exploring, you realize that there are beautiful resorts and of course, these resorts are situated near luscious beaches that are either sculpted to perfection over time (5), or assisted somewhat by these lovely hotel chains who are ambitious in their efforts to create that picture perfect view for their guests shelling out half a thousand per night prior to any poolside accoutrements. These are the pleasant beaches with pleasant looking vacationers from the mainland floating and laughing, basking in sunlight, and enjoying themselves with what appears to be the vacation of a lifetime that they knew was just around the corner. West coasts of the islands (Maui and Big Island particularly), this is where the money was made & the resorts invested heavily in. In hindsight, seems like a no brainer for any developer who was looking towards tourism in Hawaii post sugar cane & farming boon. Their mindsets: sunsets, people love them; hotels on the west coast, beach doesn't look amazing, well let's make them better, where will the tides not suck our well to do guests out to sea, etc. These were the thoughts and questions they had to consider, answer and deliver upon. And trust me they did. If you're looking for that pleasant and relaxing beach, chances are you'll find it on the west side. I myself found a few instances to blaze past an unsuspecting gate keeper at some of the resorts and headed immediately down to park my rental car in these previously mentioned hotels and then saunter my way over to the infinity pools facing beaches that looked visually as soothing as the beach chairs themselves felt, and casually ordered drinks while nonchalantly explaining my friend _____ in room ______ was on their way down now. Never had the slightest

problem. Although I was cautious and gauged who best to talk with. Let me just say that there are few better places to have an assured sense of comfort while reading that book in (6). These hotels can do the trick, completely put you at ease, at least for a while & until you begin wondering how the real world is getting along. Now of course you don't NEED to be sequestered in these resorts, but it wouldn't kill you either! That being said, if you want to actually go out and be adventurous, a few necessary pieces of equipment will make these missions somewhat more fortuitous. Four or five main objects really, to always be kept in your car's trunk: surfboard or boogie board (whatever you prefer), snorkel, mask and fins, beach chair, & a boom box. Allow me to share why below. Now I spent time at a few beaches in Hawaii (mostly on Maui) where surfing reigned supreme and every stereotype you'd ever associated with surfing came true- time to break out the board. It was at first ill comforting and still is a bit. These are folks who are just intimidating. Mainly because they do this almost every day and I suppose move to the islands mainly for this reason- to shred waves- but I'm unclear myself how a single sport can be enough to revolve your life around (I'm also just not good enough at any). However ask any of them, and they'll surely let you know. Personally, I just never felt confident enough with a surfboard. Heavy, large and hard to get a hold of, the boards definitely seemed to possess some challenges. It is for those reasons, I fell in with the boogie board and accompanying mantra. The boogie board is of course the little, diminutive brother of the surf board and therefore I doubt could ever get any of the older girls because of it, but alas, I found it more manageable, freeing, and generally more chill. It's always still a little embarrassing when you come back to the mainland and tell your friends about your surfing adventures you had, only for them to ask "Was it actual surfing, or boogie boarding?" at which point if honest, you tell them the truth. Invariably you'll notice a scoff or look of befuddlement which insinuates, "You went all the way over there for that? Um. Isn't that most appropriate for 8 year olds on family trips to Florida?" Anyway! Particular beaches are quite conducive to boogie boarding and catching a good wave can be equally as gratifying (Im told) and incredibly exhilarating. Add in crystal clear waters and the warm sun hitting you, and you're in for a treat that's impossible not to enjoy. On top of that, a wave is a wave, especially if you're riding for the adrenaline and thrill it provides when your brain realizes the wave is coming right for you and the only thing you can hope to do is hang on and ride it out (also helps to wear fins)! The caveat to all of this boarding, especially boogie and body,

is that some of these great waves can break dangerously close to the shoreline. And although I'm no worrywart, I definitely was boarding waves sans board and was flipped roughly a foot or so from the ocean floor with such force that my 170 pound muscular physique had no control regarding which direction I was heading in. Had it been a little more shallow (sheer luck it wasn't) and I would have bonked my head on the hard ocean floor with uncertain results. Some apparently break their neck this way, which I couldn't even fathom considering the life guards are far away and there is no telling how much water you'd ingest during this knocked out period of time (so if the injury didn't paralyze you, the lack of oxygen to your brain could). The Photos

1. Post successful hitch hike, photo on top of Mount Kea. Ride from 8,000 feet to the summit at 13,000 feet. Big thanks to the amiable, and determined, Scottish family who were on the island to support their son who later in the week would participate in the Ironman (no clue how he did).

2.

Immediately upon my toes sinking into the sand at Big Beach, I surmised all of the hype emanating from the Hawaii beaches was true. Note, this was my first beach visit on the trip.

3.

Taking a deep breathe seemed like the most difficult chore Id be tasked with while lying on Kealia Beach, on the east coast of Kauai.

4.

Dont mind the giant waves that crash behind my personal tide pool, those come with it.

5.

If you ask me, it looks a little toooo perfectat Kaanapali Beach in Maui (those are not my kids).

6.

Ah, the sweet life, man-made, but what can you do. Excuse me, another beer please.

7.

City of Refuge, some of the most alive coral Ive ever seen. David Attenborough would be proud. Snorkel here at all costs!

8.

There are places to go when you know you have a year to live, and this is one of them. A hikers paradise (preferably by yourself). Just make sure to take a few precautions, like water.

9.

When youre just looking for sun, a warm breeze, clear cool water, and lush plant life. Not many better places to turn than Iao Valley.

10. If only my bathroom had this set up.

11. For as far as the eye could see, this is all I saw. Nerve racking to know if the
wrong direction was chosen to walk in, well this essay would have been a bit more difficult to write.

12. After hiking 2 miles vertically on the Z trail from the start of Waipio Beach. Too many switchbacks to remember, not that Id like to

13. Every city slickers dream, virgin forest enshrouding you while venturing
further to lands of lore (Waimanu Valley).

14. Hiking through fern valleys en route to getting lost in Waimea Canyon State Park.

15. Its a tough life, but someones got to do it. At the Marriotts Kauai & Beach Resort.

16. Something tells me that most people would rise for this also at 6am, even if it did occur each morning.

17. Polihale, damn your devilish good looks.

Snorkeling proves also to a beautiful aspect of Hawaiian outdoor life if a bit overrated and exaggerated in every piece of promotional material you'll glimpse upon while traveling on the islands. I've been snorkeling by reefs in the Caribbean at such places like St. Johns, so maybe I'm spoiled, yet the snorkeling was quite thrilling & unforgettable in Hawaii for a few main reasons I'll discuss below. The spots where everyone discusses (and marketers describe in brochures) are incredibly crowded and it's literally a challenge not to get kicked in the face with a fin, run into someone, etc. There are beautiful fish, but the coral doesn't seem that vibrant anymore and what with the cluster of people coupled with the waves breaking all around, it takes away from the mellowness that many associate snorkeling with. That being said, never have I seen such amazing and alive coral as in the City of Refuge on Big Island (7). At first, the spot is intimidating-you basically just jump off rocks & into the water with a current that appears as if it's going to sweep you away. But again, there are others already

swimming and therefore, it must be incredibly fine to get in yourself! I did so and was truly blown away with what I saw 10 to 30 feet below- the greenest and most vibrant coral I'd ever set my plastic mask covered eyes on. The view reminded me of some sort of lost emerald world I'd seen in a sci-fi movie and if gotten closer to, would have exposed some passage way that could carry me off into a new realm which might be more exciting than the tourist coffee shops above the surface. Needless to say your mind can wander when snorkeling in exemplary conditions. This location was mellow and relaxing with few tourists seemingly knowing about it, also -reemphasizing my point about hard to get to spots being the best- a 4 mile bumpy road took you over here and many apparently were just too lazy to go those extra miles not to mention their guide books or local hotels probably were not pushing for these folks to make the journey due to the region being a national park, hence: peaceful, serene, guarded by park ranges, thus all the right ingredients for excellent snorkeling. I had my own mask and I'm fairly certain, at this location, there wasn't any stalls to rent equipment, lest you have hundreds visiting, instagramming, and stealing away your views of the ocean drama beneath. Also once you get below the surface, the choppiness disappears and you can float pleasantly alongside some beautifully colored animals that can definitely remind you that you're far away from your desk job. I'm also leaving out quite a bit related to my hiking adventures, which could easily take up this entire essay. I did A LOT of hiking throughout each island in Hawaii. My second full day in Hawaii when staying in Maui as a matter of fact, was the day that I decided to drive up to the top of Mt. Haleakala (8) and hike the 12 mile trail, trekking from the top of the mountain at around 10,000 ft., above the clouds, to 6,000 ft. below. According to my Lonely Planet, it was a beautiful journey through some wonderful vistas, including the crater of a volcano. Was I prepared for this hike? Not in the slightest. Upon arriving at the ranger station at the start of the trail, I was carrying a 16 ounce paper cup which around 1 hour ago, contained warm coffee which I purchased at the local convenience store near where I was staying. This was my only provision, so excited was I just to be in Hawaii and get the nature portion of the trip started! I seemed so desperate and anxious to commence with the physically challenging bit of the trip where my treat would be landscapes, quiet and dramatic scenes that had beleaguered even Mark Twain when he made the descent, and to see for myself just what all the fuss could be about. I did have- to my credit- decently warm clothing on. I was promptly told by the ranger, though, that going was a terrible idea. I did not have a rain jacket (I would be rained on & promptly drenched, according to her), I did not have nearly enough water (this was

somewhat embarrassing, but I halfheartedly assumed they'd have a vending machine up there), & I also had no food. Bottom line, she told me that if I were to get stranded on the mountain, they'd charge $10,000.00 to airlift me out of there, which could easily happen in my predicament. Well, I hesitated for a moment, then thought to myself. To reach this start of the trail, I had already driven 6,000 feet above sea level, then hitch hiked another 4,000. At this point, I wasn't going to turn back, not to mention I didn't live in Maui and couldn't just leisurely come do this hike on any day. No, it had to be now. I'd make it, by relying on the help of strangers if need be. And make it I did! The 12 mile trail was one of the most mind altering 6 hours I've ever been able to experience. It's my recollection that I was one of the only hikers who made the decision on that day to go forward with the full hike. Hiking anywhere that is sparse of people is great, but hiking through an ancient volcano basin which contained never before seen landscapes that looked spectacular was another altogether. And the great thing was, as each moment went by and one foot was set in front of the other, a new microclimate appeared! From beautiful brown soils to large red rocks, to untamed hills of white. I'm telling you, I felt like a space man walking on Mars at some intervals. And what's more, the trail continued to descend which made the second half even more leisurely. Also on the second half, green earth began slowly to reappear with shrubs and trees beginning to make themselves more apparent. And to top it all off, when I was down to my last few sips of waters with still 5 or so miles to go- which I was prepared to ration accordingly-, I ran into the only other hikers I believe to have hiked that day. With the incredulous and exclamatory remark of, "Where'd you find a Burger King," he handed me a bottle of water and a good helping of trail mix. I was saved, thanks to the kindness of other hikers. We talked briefly of other hiking accomplishments we've had the privilege of experiencing, me sharing on Patagonia, them sharing on Denali. We both made the decision to heed the other's advice and give each other's destination a shot when we could make the trip next. Overall, this hike was spectacular and might have been one of the best scenic moments I've had in my life. And believe me when I say that, I've traveled to more than 25 countries, mostly all for pleasurable experiences that involved hiking and experiencing national parks, if that helps add any validity to my above statement. Yes I know I'm an idiot for having only a cup of water to walk 12 miles, but what would you have done in my shoes. I did fill the cup at the drinking fountain before starting... On top of the hike I referred to above, I also did some great hiking into the Iao Valley (9)on Maui which was incredibly beautiful, tropical, and peaceful. This time I came

prepared with water, sunscreen, and all the right necessities. Basically, most tourists only foray somewhat into the valley, tip toeing the outskirts. I stayed along the river bank for around 2 miles, waiting till no human was anywhere near the river and promptly stripped down to enjoy my own private pool. It was as peaceful a place as I could imagine one could find. The sun beaming down, the sway of the trees on either side, the lush green valley strewn across the horizon, the cool and refreshing water coursing around your relaxed body, and a warm rock to get dry by sitting on (10). It was all almost too much for the senses to take in, too picture perfect. I almost convinced myself that I was the first to explore this far into the valley and therefore was coming upon some sacred and hidden pool where no one had yet to bask in. Going to Iao & traveling further to its interior was a wonderful idea, and I spent a good few hours thinking to myself that with these two experiences under my belt, how could Hawaii get any better. Would you believe it could!? Throughout the rest of my Maui portion of the trip, I continued my hiking excursions. And another surreal experience came to me while walking through the bamboo forest, inside of the Oheo Gulch near Hana. Although quite crowded with tourists throughout this park, I did have some moments to myself in the forest and let me tell you, they felt great. I'm quite interested in Asian culture and history, and partaking in the ritualistic experience of walking through an actually dense bamboo forest made me think that I could have been on my way to some magical arena where the prince of a powerful Chinese dynasty resided with his sorcerer aid, during his summer respite. For a brief moment, I convinced myself into thinking that I was in fact within some mystical forest that contained powers. Regardless, it was splendid and yet again, another place that is impossible to forget, even if you aren't envisioning yourself to be in 9th century China. I also had two fascinating (and precarious) forays into hiking while on the Big Island. The first took place within Volcanoes National Park towards the south side of the island, the second experience, towards the north around Waipio Valley. When arriving at Volcano National Park after spending the night at a quaint Japanese inn within Volcano Village (which was fantastic by the way) I came prepared and emboldened by my previous hiking exploits which took place on Maui. This was my first mistake, hubris. After walking into the ranger station, I promptly asked the young ranger which hike had the least amount of people and which might present me with some breathtaking vistas. I also asked for a trail that didn't necessitate backtracking. I wanted something that

provided me with new vistas throughout, much like the Mount Haleakala adventure. This decision almost proved fatal. After leaving the station -my mind brimming with possibilities- I drove the car to the designated trail after going many miles, well past the tourists and the main roads within the park, and onto a road much more hidden away and subdued. You'd miss the turn off if you weren't looking for it. Needless to say I jumped out of the car, walked right by the sign in book you were supposed to fill out before hiking, and departed. Within 30 or so minutes walking on the "trail" I realized that I was now off it. In fact, I couldn't see anything that could be signified as a trail (11). I was walking on a black shell like surface which was in my mind, hardened lava that had been baking (like me right then and there) in the hot sunlight for god knows how long. I was completely turned around and of course there weren't any people around- since I explicitly asked for this scenario. Initially, I remember following a path this young man roughly my age was taking & trying to continue at his speed, but gradually I slowed down and didn't even realize he was nowhere to be seen. There were no specific landmarks to tell north from south or east to west; every direction looked the same, just brush and black encrusted earth. This was also the moment I knew I was lost. I began to coolly look for the path, or indication or markers of where I was, but found nothing. I got on top of what I thought were mini hills-roughly 2 feet off the ground with an even more thin and fragile crust- and still could see nothing more than the identical surface that seemed to be encompassing me. I thought to myself, ok the hike is over for the day, fine, you can take 1 day off. But after 30 minutes or so, and all of my snacks and water being consumed, I was beginning to panic. By this point it was roughly mid-day and the sun was shining brightly, directly down upon me. My phone's compass wasn't working -no cell reception- and I had a map, but what good would that do me if I had no idea where I was. I decided to try and walk west, since I knew there was a road that was indeed west of this particular trail, and I had enough sense to know which direction to head in (or so I thought). Only god knew what was to the east, and apparently it went on for what appeared like hundreds of miles on the map. So I continued walking west. Sometime later (time was beginning to blur), I stumbled upon a sort of grassy road that looked hardly if ever used. I began following it, having no clue where it led, but figured any quasi path was better than no path. At this point I was listening to a Frank Sinatra song on my dying phone and thinking to myself, god Nic, you are a complete dumbass, how could you be so stupid, again! After walking on this grassy pathway which was approximately 6 feet wide and covered by trees or tall grass on either side (presumably a vehicle could drive through

it), I decided to turn back. If I wanted to head west, that was what I'd do, and at present time I was going North. I backtracked, finally had a chance to head west, and within 15 or 20 minutes, I came across a helicopter landing pad. From there, I continued walking southwest thinking I was on to something. Then, I saw an opening in the bushes, and it turned out to be another grassy road, but this time I could see the end, and it led to an actually paved road. I was saved! The day was over, but the journey would continue. Life would go on. Pizza would be ingested once again, movies would be seen, women dated. I vowed at this point, to never make such a stupid mistake, again... Regrettably, I still haven't fully looked into where I had gone wrong or where I was walking towards on that original grassy path, but I do know it would not have been a fun place to sleep. My last truly fascinating hike on Big Island started in Waipio Valley (12). I decided, and had it in my head, that I'd make it to the next valley over, Waimanu, which was 12 miles away. Now you'd think I'd learn my lesson after two death defying hiking situations, but apparently not! And these 12 miles were not something that was easy in any sense of the word. In fact, every other person I saw attempting it looked as if they were on leave from their marine training bases and this was part of their personal, regimented activities to stay in peak shape. On top of that, no one, including the young men I saw, seemed happy about making this supposedly beautiful trek. Regardless, I walked the length of the black sandy beach at Waipio, after hitchhiking to its base, climbed switchbacks for 2 miles in the blazing heat, & walked through beautiful ravines that had native forests which were breathtaking. Once you had made it past those switchbacks crawling up that mountain, you truly had accomplished something many others just didn't have the physical wherewithal to experience. It was incredibly beautiful, walking up there, though. The trees were massive and the plants were beautiful, as if this part of land hadn't been touched for thousands of years (13). Like you were walking through an untouched garden that was marveled upon by Hawaiians in a similar fashion to how the Empire State Building was by New Yorkers. It was a true pleasure to witness this lushness and take it all in, especially feeling as good as I was since I was traveling light. I hiked roughly 5 miles and then had a decision to make. Do I continue on, and make it to the next valley, or do I head back? This time, I decided to turn back. I would not continue on, exerting myself to such a degree and taking further risk, especially considering god knows what would have happened to me if I was walking through miles of steep, winding, and never ending gulches at night! I made it back safely to the Waipio shoreline but still vowed to get back there one day, to explore it more fully. But

that is what normally happens when you don't finish something you wanted to start, right? My last- I promise- getting lost in the woods experience occurred this time in Kauai when I was with a friend (finally, someone to vouch for my failings as a hiker)! She had the foolish and poor sense to trust me into choosing the trails and hikes we went on (I wonder what lies I told her prior to allow this scenario to occur). Well, the hiking was wonderful to start and we initiated our trip within the Waimea Canyon State Park and in particular, on a trail which led downwards from the furthest point north you could park your car. The trial led into a den of ferns(14), which was beautiful and gave the hiker a great sense of what goes on just inches from where our boots traversed. Then it all started to go slightly wrong. We began crisscrossing through marshes and rivers, and it was still peaceful, just two friends enjoying a mid-morning hike. After about 5 miles, I realized that the trail would not in fact lead us back to the beginning or in a loop fashion as I'd hope. I'd like to stop the reader here and say that I understand if you'll never go on a hike that I lead for us. I can understand that completely. But please do believe me that everywhere else I've traveled and hike, excluding Hawaii, I never have had this sort of problem! I don't know what it is about Hawaii, but it's disorienting I suppose, I blame the speed at which everything grows. Anyway, to make the long story short (because I know you're tired of my lost hiking stories) we found a park where hunters were able to skin and cook the animals they killed which led to a road, which led us to miles upon miles more of additional side roads which eventually we assumed would connect us to the main road. We were walking up hill and incredibly tired, running low on water and also just somewhat over it all (where was a beach to splay my body out onto?). That's when it happened, the greatest of recent moments; we met a nice couple who offered to drive us back to our car at the top of the hill (with some of my hitch hiking skills mixed into the initial conversation). At this point, we were probably 7 or so miles from the car, the entire ride being up hill, and were so incredibly thankful for the time, energy, and potential internal strife they saved us from going through that fateful afternoon. Life though, does seem to revolve around the beaches in Hawaii, no matter how you look at it. It's whats on the post cards, its what everyone speaks about, and let's be honest, they're fantastic to a certain degree. Would I just visit the beaches of Hawaii and forget about the other stuff? Hell no. But, they can be great, with each coast line having their own little something special to offer. A downside is definitely the driving though. If you want to get from a top rated beach to relax and then head back to your

friends place on the opposite coastline, get ready to spend an hour in the car dealing with traffic. I didn't even spend time in Oahu, which they say boasts some of the worst traffic in the world, specifically Honolulu. I also met many on my trip who lived in Hawaii and never visited particular beaches- which were world renowned- mainly because they were difficult to get to! This appalled me and saddened me at the same time. How could such a thing be a true!? But much to my chagrin, it was. To have the best beaches at your fingertips was the dream, and visiting them all at your leisure and maximizing good times at each was the goal, right?! Personally, I believe better public transportation needs to be considered in the future for the whole state on each island. On another note, I will say that some of my most pleasurable beach memories are the ones not prized widely by the experts. Sitting motionless on a warm, fine, and clean sandy beach while mellowing out as the sun beats down on your back until you have no idea how long you've been there for is a great feeling, especially when you then throw in intermittent dips into the water at strategic intervals. It's a hard act to top, regardless if your beach is next to the airport or not, which was the case in Kauai's central eastern coast. I did not, however, come to Hawaii to make new friends, and I know how awful sounds, but I wanted to read, not be completely extroverted, and basically be as emotionally lazy as possible. I did not want to trade stories with other travelers at the local bars while sharing calamari. Which is another reason why when I visited Little Beach on a Sunday evening in Maui (a quite scene place to be), I didn't love the experience. With many nude & older men far outnumbering the beautiful women that you always thought roamed the beach parties in Hawaii, there was little else to do but engage in conversation with the massive swells of nude, overweight, & heavily tanned men on the beach, each attempting their own personal quest for nirvana. Yes, for me, the best beaches were the ones where the only thing that could be heard was the ocean waves crashing against the shoreline, far away from the drums and oohing and ahhing of the patrons marveling at the fire throwers. This also explains why you'll notice that not much of this essay has anything to do with many cultural events that tourists could participate in. Though I've read much about what Hawaii was like during the 19th century and before (read Jack London's stories on Hawaii, they're fantastic), I had little interest in seeing locals replicate any age old customs or experiences, for as hard as they tried or thought they mastered the art, it all just seemed a bit contrived with too many dull faced tourists looking on in what seemed to be a lulled sense of satisfaction

that would have been the same had you told them really anything about past Hawaiian culture that involved women singing and ukuleles playing. This was the Hawaii that certain adventurous travelers looked down on the islands for: the tourist buses, the planned and micro managed outings at every stage of the journey, and the luau in which each moment was scripted and the same formulaic approach was performed each and every night for eager tourists waiting for their confirmation that yes, they've reached the land of aloha. Any replicated act can seem uninspiring to me, and perhaps for this reason I was never interested or engaged in these routine events, no matter the person(s) performing or the location decided upon. Did I mention how perfect my last week in Hawaii was while staying on Kauai? Arriving off the plane there, you feel the love (even if it's disingenuous) of this island as if they've gotten their tourism structure down to a tee and have perfected the game, so to speak. It almost seems like that if you live on the island, you're indoctrinated, slowly but surely, into the warm welcomes and proud speeches about this particular island that is made to (and will) fill any novice traveler with warmth and a feeling that they've truly come to that paradise of a destination. Well, it couldn't have worked out better for me either, so thank you Kauai! One of my favorite 'travel' moments occurred to me when I made it to the front desk of the Courtyard Marriott in Kauai- where a good friend of mine had booked a room in advance for us (which she paid for with the compromise that I'd handle the car & itinerary details throughout our week) - "Sir, we're absolutely full for the next two days. Any chance you might like moving to our other location?" Well, instantly it became apparent to me that this other location had to be better or they couldn't offer it. And let me tell you, dear reader, it was! So I easily acquiesced, but also wanted to see how far I could take the compromise. In the end, I was able to achieve the following: a beautiful room at the Marriott Resort (a few levels above Courtyard status)facing the ocean of course-which boasts the most pools for any hotel in Hawaii (15), 50,000 Marriott points (on account of being 'displaced' from our initial hotel for 2 nights), and upon returning to the courtyard Marriott, the ocean view suite on the bottom floor (which replaced our initial online booked garden view room). Needless to say, I spent many days on those balconies and terraces, soaking in the sun, reflecting, admiring every sunrise (since we were facing east in the Courtyard) and generally attempting to feel as grateful as possible for the experience provided. Please also note that with the 50,000 points, I'm currently planning many side trips to destinations such as the Hudson River Valley for the spring and Long Island for the summer. Generally though, I felt guilty if I wasn't outside soaking up as much sunlight as possible throughout my Kauai

time, thats how nice it was each day. The rooms were only used for a few main things: making cocktails (this could start at 6am and sometimes did), taking long hot baths, changing in and out of my bathing suit post hot tub use, & going to sleep at 830 in the evening while rising at 6 (16). The friend that I was with couldn't have been more laid back and approachable related to the plans I'd devise and overall she was one of those travel companions that you just knew you could drift with and any argument would be hard to come by (although I was called Grandpa on many occasions for my sleep patterns). How are the landscapes and parks in Kauai? Generally gorgeous. As mentioned before, the best mindset to have when traveling around Hawaii is not to worry one iota about the car you rented and go everywhere. Have fun with him or her, push that thing, take it to places you generally wouldn't consider going- bottom line, don't be afraid. Some of the best hiking trails & beaches I found were the ones with entrances off gravel roads & that generally were the farthest away from any hotels or 'hot spot' destinations. In my mind I'm envisioning Polihale Beach here (17), which is on the far southwest of the island and the most remote beach to reach in terms of driving. When standing on that shoreline, you might see 3, 4 other people, but they're completely drowned out (not literally!). Your focus becomes zoned into these waves and the length & immensity of the beach, mixed with the reality of just where you are, can simply mesmerize. Its an incredibly soothing, hypnotic, and terrifying experience when you simultaneously realize that these waves on this beach are impossible to walk away from- drawing you in closer and closer-while at the same time knowing all the while that they could kill you in the blink of an eye. The beaches overall beauty intimidated me more than any Victoria Secret model could ever do, I think... Being along that shoreline made me feel like there was no place more important in the world, that perhaps no other place existed (I couldn't think of anywhere else at those precise moments), the majesty of the scene was simply too breathtaking, too inspiring to allow for other thoughts to slip in. You feel compelled to take note, stand up straight, and ponder just exactly where you are right now in this wild world we call planet Earth. In the middle of the Pacific Ocean and on the furthest beach down the most distant road to reach, this was a magical moment for me, one that I nonetheless put the time into achieving. You're a speck standing next to perfect waves that have been waiting for just this moment to crash (for months they've been in motion, building up momentum since their inception in Japan) and you're privy to this moving performance, just this one time, so you take notice and enjoy. Perhaps

you try to make the mood even more dramatic and climatic by putting your head phones on and listening to M83, but generally, the scene is set. Hawaii sets scenes for people. In few other places does one feel as compelled to turn your car off, jump out, and marvel at some jaw dropping vantage point that you couldn't miss taking in on your own time. You've made it when you reach Hawaii. The flight was worth it, you knew it would be. The time put in for planning logistics, no sweat. But Hawaii knows this, implicitly. It's the cool, friendly, somewhat beautiful girl who is open minded, easy going, and willing to share stories with you about past loves over red wine. You take deep breathes here, close your eyes, and know you're someplace special where you're glad you've experienced at least once. Maybe just once is enough, since the world is so big, but it's an experience that I'm certain will make any traveler think back to with: nostalgia, a relaxed mindset (most of the time...), & all those Marriott points.