Catching Waves By Miguel Espinal

A shimmering body of deep blue water, the Pacific Ocean caresses the sun kissed coast of southern California. Many have heard of it and have admired its beauty, but only a certain few actually live their lives to be one with this ocean. Like the dolphin, the seal and the whale, they arrive before the dawn, to witness the first rays of the morning sun reflect a kaleidoscope of lights within the curls of the blue green ocean surf. These groups of people known as surfers paddle out just past the break water and wait patiently on their surfboards among the marine animals. All true surfers collectively have a common goal, a determination to achieve a traditional event with nature on a daily basis that has become a cultural custom. Surfers watch and survey the ocean tide for the right moment to turn and start paddling back towards the shore ahead of an approaching ocean swell. Then the almost spiritual happens, the euphoric adrenaline which spills over a surfer. The sensation not many people know, yet should experience

at least once in their lifetime. The thrill of springing up to stand and balance yourself on a surfboard, the powerful curling mass of salt water that effortlessly lifts you up upon its crest, and then the inevitable force of gravity which kinetically propels you down across its slippery surface as you ride the first wave. So join me as I try to describe a day at the beach catching waves. I once was among the surfers; an internal biological clock would awaken me in the early morning hours right before dawn. I would arrive at first light, leaving foot prints in the sand as I walked down on to the beach. The morning fog hanging in the air looks like a light greyish ceiling made of dirty cotton. Standing on the shore with my surfboard under my arm, I would look out over the water and witness the wonder of nature that is the pacific coast. Like in a dream, the grey white mist would rise from the chilly sand all around me as dawn approached. The smell of the beach early in the morning has a salty aroma that lingers on the damp sand from the overnight ocean spray of the surf. The chill in the air from the wind blows your hair back and leaves tingling goose bumps on the skin. Out in the water, you can see the light brown sea lions, naturally body surfing through the waves as they catch fish for breakfast. Further out past the breaking waves can be seen pods of dolphins, their slick silvery gray bodies appearing and disappearing among the swells as they come to the surface for air. Grey black Pelicans can also be seen, ladling the water with their elongated black bills as they scoop up fish, while bobbing up and down with the tide. You can also hear in the distance, the distinct tapping sound the sea otters make as they use stones to crack open clams, while floating on their backs among the kelp beds, enjoying their delectable seafood. You can see and hear seagulls gliding on the wind, searching for food in the ocean or on the

beach fighting over scraps around the trash containers, which is always noisy and comical but a natural daily activity for them. A morning like this is like a gift from heaven to a surfer, the waves rolling in perfectly and curling high, majestically, and then falling with a thunderous foamy and powerful sound. You can say that its Mother Nature announcing a challenge to all, to take your chances in the raw power that is the ocean surf. You answer the call, theres only one way to accept the challenge, charge into the chilly water and head towards the breaking waves. Upon reaching the break water, you dip the tip of your surfboard and your body as one plunging under the oncoming wave, like a torpedo beneath the oncoming frothy wave. The cold rush of water rolls over you, and briskly yet gently will numb your exposed skin as the wave passes above you; then your buoyant surfboard floats your body up to the surface as the wave passes by. This paddling out is done as many times as necessary, till you finally reach the invisible barrier in the water known as the fence, where you sit and wait. This is the area right before the waves crest, roughly twenty-five, thirty or even fifty yards off shore, depending on the tide. Surfers will try to lay claim to this zone early, there have been many conflicts over it for as long as there has been the sport of surfing, due to it being the best spot for catching waves. Here surfers will float on their boards, and watch the sets of ocean swells that approach. Way out here in the deep water, theres always something surfacing nearby or splashing around unexpectedly. An ominous sensation of something big and menacing just under your board will send chills up your spine and make the hair on the back of your neck stand on end. There are sharks in these pacific waters, not the kind you pay to go see at the aquarium, no, the wild and free kind; which would love nothing more

than to mistake you for something else, bite you, then spit you out like a kid spitting out broccoli. Then theres always other marine life that can mess up your day; but you deal with it for the thrill, youre in their domain, remain alert and respect the fact, and you might not end up as a snack for a hungry predator or a nice perch for a stinging invertebrate, like a nasty, slimy, almost invisible jellyfish. Being out in the ocean could be described as freedom for the senses; you can lose yourself with its awe inspiring beauty almost like a mused influence. The sun rising is a wonder to behold; with its brilliant golden rays shining up like yellow spikes from the eastern horizon, can make it seem angelic in nature, like heaven turning on a dim switch for the world, slowly conveying the new day. The way the golden hues from the sun dance on the ripples of the water can only be described as ethereal. The dark bluish green salt water on the skin is refreshing and warm like bath water that is once your body temperature becomes regulated and accustomed to it. The gusts of wind coming off the ocean is comforting, draping around you like a warm crocheted blanket as it continues by on its way inland. I dont surf anymore and I miss planning a day on the beach to catch some waves; I enjoyed the ocean from daybreak to sunset. If by chance you get the opportunity to ever visit the California coast, feel free to explore its local surfing locales. You can find them just about everywhere on many famous beaches and secluded coves. If its a fact not knowing how to surf makes you perish the thought. Then go for the magical eternal gift that is the ocean and its surf.